NEW GUINEA

PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
LONDON

\A3mi&&

James Chalmers, the Pioneer Missionary of New Guinea

PIONEERING

IN

NEW GUINEA
1877-1894

BY
JAMES CHALMERS

WITH A MAP AND FORTY-THREE- ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
ORIGINAL SKETCHES AND PHOTOGRAPHS

FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY
New York Chicago Toronto
The Religious Tract Society, London

MW27 C353p i
1^3 5?

COAST SCENE AT THE EAST END

PREFACE

In 1877 the Rev. James Chalmers joined the New Guinea
Mission, and his arrival formed an epoch in its history.
He is wonderfully equipped for the work to which he
has, under God's Providence, put his hand. He is the
white man best known to all the natives along the south
coast. From the first he had gone among them unarmed,
and though not unfrequently in imminent peril, has been
marvellously preserved. He has combined the qualities of
missionary and explorer in a very high degree, and
universally known by the natives as ' Tamate ' (the nearest
approach native lips can make to Chalmers), has added
"enormously to the stock of our geographical knowledge of

viii LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the
ways of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life
of the various tribes of natives.
This volume contains sketches of his travels and
labours in New Guinea during the years 1878 to 1894.
Mr. Chalmers has made no effort to work them up into a
finished book. Had he attempted to do so, they would
have never seen the light. He is more at home in his
whale-boat or steam launch off the New Guinea coast than
in his study, and his hand takes more readily to the tiller
than to the pen. Hence the bulk of this volume is made
up of extracts from journals hastily written while sitting
on the platforms of New Guinea houses, surrounded by
cannibals, or while resting, after a laborious day's tramp,
under a fly-tent on some outlying spur of the Owen Stanley
Mountains, or while sailing along the south-eastern coast
or the Fly River. Writing thus, liable to manifold
interruptions, Mr. Chalmers has sought to preserve only
what was essential to his purpose, viz., to record exactly
what he saw and did ; how the natives look and speak, and
think and act ; what in his judgment New Guinea needs,
and how her needs can be best supplied.
The circumstances of Mr. Chalmers' work have given
him a unique position in the great Papuan Island. He is
well known to many of the tribes, and he is the personal
friend of many of the chiefs. He has travelled up and
down in all its accessible districts, so that now both the
villages and inhabitants are more familiar to him than to

PREFACE ix
any other white man. The influence of the Gospel of
peace is already so marked, that it is working rapid
changes in the thoughts and habits of the natives. No
white man of this generation can possibly see New Guinea
and its people under exactly the same conditions. Suc
ceeding missionaries and observers can never see these
people in the same stage of savagery as when he acquired
their friendship. Hence another reason for printing these
rough sketches of the life and habits and beliefs of New
Guinea is that they may be on record, and thus serve to
measure the progress which is now being made in New
Guinea, and will continue to be made in the upward growth
towards Christianity and civilisation.
Considerable portions of this book have been printed
before in Work and Adventure in New Guinea, and
Pioneering in New Guinea. Both these volumes are out
of print. The new portions consist of various visits and
adventures on the part of Mr. Chalmers during the last
nine years, and especially the opening up of the Fly River.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

PAGE

I. HOW NEW GUINEA CAME UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING 1 9
II. EARLY EXPERIENCES  .29
III. SOUTH CAPE IN 1 878 AND IN 1 882 . . . .61
IV. A TRIP TO OIABU AND MEKEO . . ... 66
V. A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES ... 74
VI. AMONG THE CANNIBALS  93
VII. PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884  121
VIII. SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES  146
IX. SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE  187
X. AN ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON THE GULF OF PAPUA 207
XI. THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO . . . . 229
XII. THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER  244

A NEW GUINEA RIVER

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
JAMES CHALMERS, THE PIONEER MISSIONARY OF NEW
GUINEA  Frontispiece
COAST SCENE AT THE EAST END  vii
A NEW GUINEA RIVER  xiii
MAP OF NEW GUINEA ... . . . . l8
RUATOKA AND HIS WIFE .... ... 23
PORT MORESBY  31
NATIVES IN MOURNING  33
FRUIT SELLERS COMING OFF TO A VESSEL . 43
A CHINA STRAITS CANOE . .... 49

xiv LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
PAGE
NATIVES OF SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA ... 53
NEW GUINEA WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS  59
SAVAGE LIFE IN NEW GUINEA  63
A TREE HOUSE FOR WOMEN AT KOIARI  67
FLEET OF LAKATOIS STARTING FOR THE WEST 75
WOMEN MAKING POTTERY  77
LAKATOIS IN FULL SAIL  8 1
A LAKATOIS GOING WEST . . . . .85
WOMEN'S CANOE LADEN WITH POTTERY . . . -91
A STREET IN AN AROMA VILLAGE .... 95
A FOREST OF PANDANUS TREES  Ill
NATIVE TEACHERS  ... 121
TUPUSELEI  123
CANOE OFF TUPUSELEI ...  1 24
W. G. LA WES, OF PORT MORESBY  1 27
A NATIVE OF PORT MORESBY  1 30
WIDOW MOURNERS AND A DEAD-HOUSE  131
QUEEN KOLOKA OF NAMOA .... . . . 137
THE CHIEF'S HOUSE AT TUPUSELEI .... . 141
MARAE AT TUPUSELEI .... . . . . 147
A PORT MORESBY GIRL  151
DUBUS AT VAILALA AND MAOPA.— KOAPENA, CHIEF OF MAOPA 163
A NEW GUINEA DANDY  169
A HULA GIRL  177
LOHIA MARAGA AND OTHER KOIARI CHIEFS . . . .183
IN BERTHA LAGOON— CLOUDY MOUNTAIN IN THE DISTANCE . 189
A YOUTHS' DUBU  195
A TREE HOUSE, KOIARI . ... . . 203
A NEW GUINEA VILLAGE IN THE GULF  205
NEW GUINEA NATIVES COOKING YAMS  21 5
MANGROVE SWAMP  217
A STREET IN NEW GUINEA  223
MARINE DWELLINGS  23 1
A NEW GUINEA GRAVE  337
GIGANTIC MALAVA TREE  245

PIONEER LIFE AND WORK
IN
NEW GUINEA

CHAPTER I
HOW NEW GUINEA CAME UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING
To the north and north-west of Samoa are several groups
of islands known on the chart as the Gilbert Group, Ellice
Group, and Tokelau Group. When it became known that
a mission was contemplated by the British missionaries of
Samoa to these islands, the missionaries of the Hervey
Group, with which I was then connected, were anxious to
join in the enterprise, so that the churches in their care
might have an outlet for their zeal in Christ's work. The
Samoan missionaries, however, thought, and rightly too,
that they could undertake the entire mission alone, having
at that time a large number of teachers and students.
Moreover, these small groups of islands were much nearer
to them than to us.
Our chief reason for wishing to take part in the work
was because Elikana, the first to bring the gospel to these
islands, was a native of one of our islands, and a deacon
in one of our mission churches. The circumstances of his
coming to these islands were intensely interesting.

20 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
The natives had held their May meeting on Manihiki,
an island of the Humphrey Group ; and getting a large
number of cocoanuts into a canoe, several of them had started
to cross over to Rakahanga, another island of the same
group about thirty miles away. When they left, the
weather was fine and the wind just fresh, and they hoped
to be over in a few hours ; but when more than half-way
across a heavy squall came down on them. In the dark
ness they lost sight of land, and must have got headed off.
When the squall passed they could see no land anywhere,
and although they beat about they could pick none up.
For days they hoped, but in vain, and so they gave them
selves up for lost. After many days of much suffering and
many disappointments, seeing low islands, but unable to
make them, they were at last driven on to an island. Some
had died, and others were drowned, and Elikana and two
more got ashore in a very weak state.
They were found by natives and treated kindly, and
taken to the chief, who received them as friends. Elikana
had saved a Pilgrim's Progress, and, I think, his Bible, by
having them fastened in a cloth round his waist. They
astonished the natives with morning and evening prayers ;
and soon after their recovery from the effects of the long
exposure they began teaching and telling the story of
Divine love as seen in Christ.
The Pilgrim's Progress was divided out in leaves
amongst the people, and several were taught to read. After
a few years Elikana decided to get to Samoa, if possible,
and inform the missionaries that these islands were waiting
for the Gospel. He felt he was not sufficiently educated
for the work, and was anxious, if he could, to get back to
his home, and to Rarotonga, to be better educated, that
he might return qualified to act as a teacher. Reaching
Samoa, he told his story. The missionaries heard it with
joy, and gave God thanks. They received him into the

NEW GUINEA UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING 21
Malua College, and arranged to send teachers at once.
From that day to this the work has prospered, and there
are now churches on every island.
The Samoan missionaries being able to undertake the
work in these islands themselves, and declining our assist
ance, and we feeling that the life of the native churches in
the Hervey Group and out-stations depended largely in
being in close relationship with the heathen, and in active
service for Christ, we all betook ourselves to earnest prayer
that God would give us fields for labour. I shall never
forget those years. Meetings were frequently held in the
chapels and grew in intenseness, and then meetings for
prayer were gathered in many homes, and these becoming
too small, houses were built in all the districts, and several
times a week many met at night in these houses to ask
God's blessing and fields for labour. Then came 1871,
when the Directors of the London Missionary Society
decided on extending their South Pacific field of operations
to the great island of New Guinea, and Messrs. Murray
and Macfarlane were asked to charter a vessel, take a few
teachers, and proceed to that great land. In the Hervey
Group the excitement was great, as we felt we too might
take part in that work. Then came the request for more
teachers, and I now remember it with a thrill of pleasure.
Meetings for thanksgiving were held for the wide field
opened, and for the honour bestowed upon us in being
permitted to take part with Christ in His great work.
My dear old friend and fellow-worker, the Rev. Dr. Gill,
had arranged to go home on his first furlough in 1872, and
we decided in committee to ask him to take a number of
teachers in charge, and with Mr. Murray place them on the
mainland of New Guinea. Dr. Macfarlane, after the visit
in 1 87 1, returned to England, and Mr. Murray was left in
charge, taking up his residence at Somerset, Northern
Queensland, near to Cape York.

22 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Preparations were at once begun to get our first contin
gent away. At one early morning meeting the chapel was
crowded, and I proposed that we should pray that God
would help us to select the best men for the very important
• undertaking. At that meeting several old men stood up
and said, ' Take us all : if we cannot learn the language to
speak for Jesus we can live for Him, and help the younger
men in station work.' The enthusiasm was intense. Five
men and their wives were selected, and from all the islands
we had numerous offers of service.
The time was drawing near when they must leave.
Who that witnessed that ' setting apart ' Sunday at
Avarua, Rarotonga, will ever forget it ? Old men and
women, young men and women, wept with real joy. That
sobbed ' Amen ' of the setting-apart prayer of the whole
assembly I hear now. Five men and their wives leaving
home and friends and all that was dear to them for the
name of the Lord Jesus Christ ! I think of it now with
wonder and praise. The churches and congregations were
everywhere thrilled.
The John Williams arrived and remained a few days.
Then the parting came, a never-to-be-forgotten day.
Twenty-two years have gone since then, but the memory
is still fresh. One of the five, Ruatoka, was sent with fear
and trembling, being apparently in bad health and very
weak, and I was strongly urged not to send him. He
much wished to go, and thinking he could bear it, I agreed ;
and to-day he is the only one left, all the others are dead
and buried. The names were —

Ruatoka and wife
Rau and wife .
Heneri and wife
Adamu and wife
Anederea and wife

From Mangaia.
„ Aitutaki.
„ Manihiki.

„ Rarotonga.
They called at Aitutaki, and there the interest was as

NEW GUINEA UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING 23
intense as on Rarotonga and Mangaia. At Samoa they
were joined by Piri and his wife, who were there in charge
of a Rarotonga colony, so that they were now six.
The John Williams left the teachers and Dr. Gill at
Somerset, with Mr. Murray, and she proceeded to Sydney.
Murray and Gill chartered a small vessel, and crossed the
Papuan Gulf to Redscar Bay, and there came to an anchor
near to some small islands off the coast at Redscar Head.
They were soon in communication with the natives, and
after visiting several places decided to leave the teachers

RUATOKA AND HIS WIFE

at Manumanu, the largest village in the bay. The chief
and people seemed friendly, and all promised to treat the
teachers well. The chief's name was Naime. Some years
after when visiting him, I found him without a teacher.
He sat in front of me, and pretending to shiver as with
cold, said, ' Tamate, listen ! Why am I left out in the
cold ? What have I done that no teacher should be living
here now ? Did not I defend the teachers when they first
came, and was this not the door by which you all entered
into this land ? Some sought to kill them ; I would not
allow them. When I had food, did I not always share it

24 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
with them ? and so now tell me what I have done to be left
in poverty and cold.'
Manumanu proved very unhealthy, several teachers
died, and the living were removed to Somerset ; but not
before they had made many good friends with the other
sections of the Motu tribe, especially those who visited
them from Hanuabada, afterwards named by Captain
Moresby, Port Moresby. The captain called in Redscar
Bay, and finding some of the teachers very ill he got them
on board his ship the Basilisk, and treated them very
kindly. They were on board when Port Moresby was
discovered. Over the reports that were received from
Manumanu many tears were shed and prayers offered, but
never once did the Hervey Group churches waver in their
love to Christ, and holy resolve to teach New Guinea about
Him. The teachers who were removed to Somerset remained
there until November of 1873, when Mr. Murray brought
them back to New Guinea, and this time to Port Moresby,
where they had a right good reception from the natives at
home, many others being in the Gulf on their long trading
trip for canoes and sago.
In 1874, Mr. and Mrs. Lawes, with their son Charles,
settled at Port Moresby, the only white people on the
whole of New Guinea, and, with a few teachers, claimed
the island for Christ our King.
Of all those first teachers only Ruatoka, still at Port
Moresby, now remains. All are dead, some from the
climate, others by the hands of the natives. It is proposed
to erect tablets to their memory in the small English
church at Port Moresby, so that their names may be
perpetuated in the memory of succeeding generations.
The first teachers were from Lifu and Mare in 1871.
In 1872 the Rarotonga Institution sent its first, and in 1874
Niu6 joined. In 1878, Raiatea gave a good contingent-

NEW GUINEA UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING 25
and visit after visit of the John Williams brought us
numbers of these men and women. In 1884, I think it
was, Samoa agreed to help us, and since then she has sent
us men and women who have done good service for Christ.
Of many of them also it can be said they were ' Faithful
unto death.'
Such were the beginnings. At the East End there is
now a good strong mission. The central station is at
Kwato, where there is a large institution, almost self-
supporting, and where a healthy gospel is lived and taught.
Connected with Kwato the brethren have numerous out-
stations to the east in Milne Bay, and on to East Cape.
There they meet the Wesleyan brethren, who take up the
work from East Cape to Cape Vogel, and also occupy the
D'Entrecasteaux Group and Louisiade Archipelago. From
Cape Vogel to Mitre Rock, the boundary between Germany
and Britain, the Anglican Church of Australia is now
working. To the west of Kwato there are stations to Suau and on
towards Orangerie Bay in charge of New Guinea natives
who have been trained for the work.
At Toulon or Mailukolo, Mr. Walker has begun
another central station, and has charge of teachers in
Amazon Bay and on to Table Point.
At Kerepunu Mr. Pearse resides, and his district
extends from Table Point to Round Head, and he has
many teachers from Eastern Polynesia, and others that he
has trained himself at various points along the coast. The
progress made in this district in late years has been great,
and at present Mr. Pearse is training a goodly company of
young men and their wives, who will eventually be placed
at stations to teach their countrymen of Christ.
The next central station to Kerepunu is at Port
Moresby, which for years was our one basis of operations
for mission-work. East and west there are teachers,

26 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Polynesians and New Guineans, and their work is being
greatly prospered.
At Delena, in Hall Sound, is another central station.
Across the Sound from Delena is Yule Island, where the
members of the Sacred Heart Mission reside. They have
begun work in a large inland district, Mekeo, and have
already several stations. Being the first white man to
visit Mekeo, and having made many friends at several of
the villages, I had hoped to have placed teachers at various
points ; but scarcity of men and money prevented it at the
time, and soon after the Roman Catholic Mission of the
Sacred Heart arrived and established itself.
To the west of Cape Possession is the large Elema
district, the latest to be brought under the influence of the
Gospel. The central station is for the present at Yokea,
where there is sufficient ground for cultivation to have a
large institution for the training of native evangelists.
At Orokolo, the most westerly part of Elema, we have
two teachers, whose influence has been already felt, and
there were a few seeking baptism when I was there last.
A murder had been committed at the beginning of the
year, and the murderers were asked to give themselves up
when the Government should demand them. Sir William
Macgregor in his despatch states that on his demanding
the murderers two of them did give themselves up, while
the third was in the bush getting food, and therefore left
for the present.
A few miles to the west of Orokolo is the large Namau
district, where cannibalism is practised. As yet we have
no mission there, but hope soon to have one. The people
have been long waiting for teachers, and have promised to
receive them and treat them kindly. I have visited nearly
all the villages of that district, and have been able to make
friends everywhere.
The Fly River is a long way to the west of Namau.

NEW GUINEA UNDER CHRISTIAN TRAINING 27
In these western districts it will be difficult to work with
our noble Polynesian teachers, because of the unhealthiness
of the climate, arising from the low, swampy nature of the
country, and so it will become necessary to employ New
Guineans, and for that we are now preparing. Teachers
were placed at the mouth of the estuary of the Fly by
Dr. Macfarlane, but because of the unhealthiness of the
climate many died and others left ; and only two remained,
one on Bampton Island, and another at Sumai on Kiwai.
In 1893 I baptized on the former island forty candidates,
and was well pleased with the public statements of the
men ; and at Sumai sixteen were baptized, the men all
publicly testifying of their acceptance of the Gospel and
their faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour.
Early in the same year, we had the ordinance of the Lord's
Supper for the first time in the Fly River district, and a
very solemn and interesting occasion it was. I hope that
from these two churches we shall get young people to train
as evangelists. Then when the time comes to occupy
places farther up the river, we shall have men and women
ready. It was in 1883, if I remember rightly, that a college
was begun at Port Moresby, in order that young men and
their wives who had chosen Christ might be received from
the various districts and trained for the work of preaching
Him. Some of these are to-day our best teachers, and
have been the means of great good in various parts. They
have led many to Christ, who have been baptized, and are
united in small churches which keep increasing every year.
That this work of educating native evangelists might be
more efficiently carried on, the district committee and the
Directors arranged for a college on a more permanent basis,
and that it should be under the charge of a missionary
whose time might be entirely devoted to it. The plan is
this ; that young men and their wives who have been con-

28 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
verted and are good workers, and assist their teachers, and
are anxious to become teachers themselves, be taken to the
central station where the white missionary lives, and there
be instructed and prepared for admission to the college.
At the college they will remain for a few years and receive
instruction in English and Motuan, the latter being the
language into which the New Testament has been trans
lated. When fit they will be drafted from the college to
villages where they will reside as teachers. Mr. Lawes,
who is to take charge of the college, has already built houses
a little inland of Kapakapa, a village thirty-two miles east
of Port Moresby.

29

CHAPTER II
EARLY EXPERIENCES
TOWARDS the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr.
Macfaulane visited New Guinea for the purpose of exploring
the coast, landing native teachers at suitable spots, and
thus opening the way for future missionary effort. What
followed is given in Mr. Chalmers' words : —
We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer William M'Kin-
non on September 20, 1 877, for Somerset. The sail inside
the Barrier Reef is most enjoyable. The numerous islands
passed and the varied coast scenery make the voyage
a very pleasant one — especially with such men as our
captain and mates. On Sunday, September 30, we reached
Somerset, where we were met by the Bertha, with Mr.
Macfarlane on board of her. Mr. Macfarlane was soon
on board of the steamer to welcome us, and remained with
us till the evening. There was very little of the Sabbath
observed that day — all was bustle and confusion. Quite
a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at Somerset
awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the masters of these
boats were soon on and around the steamer receiving their
goods. On Tuesday, October 2, we left Somerset in the Bertha
for Murray Island, anchoring that night off Albany. On
Wednesday night we anchored off a sandbank, and on
Thursday off a miserable-looking island, called Village
Island. On Friday we came to York Island, where we
went ashore and saw only four natives — one man and three

30 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
boys. At 1 1 p.m. on Saturday we anchored at Darnley
Island. This is a fine island, and more suitable for vessels
and landing goods than Murray, but supposed to be not
so healthy. The island is about 500 feet in height, in
some parts thickly wooded, in others bare. It was here
the natives cut off* a boat's crew about thirty years ago, for
which they suffered — the captain landing with part of his
crew, well-armed, killing many, and chasing them right
round the island. They never again attempted anything
of the kind. As a native of the island expressed himself
on the subject : — ' White fellow, he too much make fright,
man he all run away, no want see white fellow gun no
more.' In 1871 the first teachers were landed here.
Our party was a tolerably large one — Ruatoka (the
Port Moresby teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and
four Loyalty Island teachers, on their way to East Cape.
We did not see a strange native all the way. We had our
hammocks made fast in the bush by the river-side, and
rested until 3 P.M., when we started for another part of
the river, about seven miles off, in a south-east direction.
After sunset we reached the point where the river was to
be crossed, and there we meant to remain for the night.
At 3 A.M. of October 26 we struck camp, and after
morning prayers we began to cross the river, which was not
over four feet in the deepest part. It was here Mr. Lawes
crossed when he first visited the inland tribes ; so now, led
by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The moon was often
hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping
to the path. We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to
a deserted village which Mr. Goldie knew to breakfast.
We reached the village about six, and after we had par
taken of breakfast we set off for the mountains. When we
had gone about four miles the road became more uneven.
Wallabies were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley
close by the river, which we followed for a long way, and

BWpilll

E

«oSH
S O

32 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
then began to ascend. We climbed it under a burning sun,
Ruatoka calling out, Tepiake, tepiake, tepiake (Friends,
friends, friends). Armed natives soon appeared on the
ridge, shouting, Misi Lao, Misi Lao. Ruatoka called back,
Misi Lao (Mr. Lawes), and all was right — spears were put
away and they came to meet us, escorting us to a sort of
reception-room, where we all squatted, glad to get in the
shade from the sun.
We were now about 1,100 feet above the sea level.
We were surprised to see their houses built on the highest
tree-tops they could find on the top of the ridge. One of
the teachers remarked, ' Queer fellows these ; not only do
they live on the mountain tops, but they must select the
highest trees they can find for their houses.' We were very
soon friends ; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco,
others chewing betel nuts. I changed my shirt, and when
those near me saw my white skin they raised a shout that
soon brought the others round. Bartering soon began —
taro, sugar-cane, sweet yams, and water were got in
exchange for tobacco, beads, and cloth.
After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the
next village, five miles farther along the ridge. Some of
our party were too tired to accompany us ; they remained
where' we expected to camp for the night. After walking
some miles we came unexpectedly on some natives. As
soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and
seemed determined to dispute our way. By a number of
signs — touching our chins with our right hands, etc. — they
understood we were not foes, so they soon became friendly.
They had their faces blackened with soot, plumbago, and
gum, and then sprinkled over with white ; their mouths
and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel
nut. On our leaving them, they shouted on to the next
village. An old man lay outside on the platform of the
next house we came to ; he looked terribly frightened as

EARLY EXPERIENCES

33

we approached him, but as, instead of injuring him, we
gave him a present, he soon rallied and got us water to
drink. By-and-by a few gathered round. We understood
them to say the most of the people were away on the
plains hunting for wallabies. One young woman had a
net over her shoulders and covering her breasts, as a token

NATIVES IN MOURNING

of mourning — an improvement on their ordinary attire,
which is simply a short grass petticoat — the men nil.
After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of
camping for the night, but for want of water we went on to
the village we had visited in the forenoon. We slung our
hammocks in the reception-room, had supper, and turned
in for the night. It felt bleak and cold, and the narrowness
of the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep, lest we
should fall out and over. On coming across the highest C

34 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
peak in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of Mount
Owen Stanley, with his two peaks rising far away above
the other mountains by which he is surrounded. It must
have been about thirty miles off, and, I should think,
impossible to reach from where we were. We were entirely
surrounded by mountains : mountains north, east, south,
and west — above us and below us. I question if it will ever
be a country worth settling in.
We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port
Moresby, so, leaving the most of our party, who were too
tired to come with us, to rest till Monday, Mr. Macfarlane,
Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very early on Satur
day morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting
down the mountain side and along the river. Fireflies
danced all round in hundreds, and we awakened many
strange birds before their time, which gave forth a note or
two, only to sleep again. We reached Port Moresby
about mid-day, tired indeed, and very footsore. Oh, that
shoemakers had only to wear the boots they send to
missionaries !
Early on Sunday morning a great many natives went
out with their spears, nets, and dogs, to hunt wallabies. A
goodly number attended the forenoon service, when Mr.
Lawes preached. A good many strangers were present
from an inland village on the Astrolabe side. There is
not yet much observance of the Sabbath. Poi, one of the
chief men of the place, is very friendly : he kept quite
a party of his inland friends from hunting, and brought
them to the services. Mr. Lawes preached again in the
afternoon. As we went to church in the afternoon the
hunters were returning : they had evidently had a suc
cessful day's hunting. During the day a canoe came in
from Hula, laden with old cocoanuts, which were traded
for pottery. In the evening an old sorceress died, and great was the

EARLY EXPERIENCES 35
wailing over her body. She was buried on the Monday
morning, just opposite the house in which she lived. A
grave was dug two feet deep, and spread over with mats,
on which the corpse was laid. Her husband lay on the
body, in the grave, for some time, and, after some talking
to the departed spirit, got up, and lay down by the side of
the grave, covered with a mat. About mid-day the grave
was covered over with the earth, and friends sat on it
weeping. The relatives of the dead put on mourning by
blackening their bodies all over, and besmearing them with
ashes. On October 31 the Bertha left for Kerepunu. As I
was anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast
between Port Moresby and Kerepunu, I remained, to
accompany Mr. Lawes in the small schooner Mayri. We
left on the following day, and sailed down the coast inside
the reef. We arrived at Tupuselei about mid-day. There
were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes having decided to
remove one, we got him on board, and sailed for Kaili.
The villages of Tupuselei and Kaili are quite in the sea. I
fear they are very unhealthy — mangroves and low swampy
ground abound. The Astrolabe Range is not far from the
shore we were sailing along all day. There is a fine bold
coast line, with many bays.
In the early morning our small vessel of only seven
tons was crowded with natives. We left the vessel about
9 A.M. for a walk inland, accompanied , by a number of
natives, who all went to their houses for their arms before
they would leave their village. They have no faith what
ever in one another. We passed through a large swamp
covered with mangroves — then into a dense tropical bush,
passing through a large grove of sago palms and large
mango trees. The mangoes were small — about the size of
a plum — and very sweet. At some distance inland I took
up a peculiar-looking seed ; one of the natives, thinking

36 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
I was going to eat it, very earnestly urged me to throw
it away, and with signs gave me to understand that if
I ate it I should swell out to an enormous size, and
die. We walked about seven miles through bush, and then
began the ascent of one of the spurs of the Astrolabe. On
nearing the inland village for which we were bound, the
natives became somewhat afraid, and the leader stopped,
and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he would indeed
not kill any of the people. He was assured all was right,
and then he moved on a few paces, to stop again, and
re-inquire if all was right. When reassured, we all went on,
not a word spoken by anyone, and so in silence we entered
the village. When we were observed, spears began rattling
in the houses ; but our party shouted, Maino, maino (Peace,
peace), Misi Lao, Misi Lao ! The women escaped through
the trap-doors in the floors of their houses, and away down
the side of the hill into the bush. We reached the chief's
house, and there remained.
The people soon regained confidence, and came round
us, wondering greatly at the first white men they had ever
seen in their village. The women returned from their
flight, and began to cook food, which, when ready, they
brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook. We
gave them presents, and they would not suffer us to depart
till they had brought us a return present of uncooked food.
They are a fine, healthy-looking people, lighter than those
on the coast. Many were in deep mourning, and frightfully
besmeared. There are a number of villages close by, on
the various ridges. We returned by a different way,
following the bed of what must be in the rainy season a
large river. The banks were in many places from eight to
nine feet high.
On the following morning, November 3, we weighed
anchor and set sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village in

EARLY EXPERIENCES 37
the sea. The houses are large and well built. There are
numerous villages on the hills at the back of it, and not
too far away to be visited. We anchored off Round Head,
which does not, as represented on the charts, rise boldly
from the sea. There is a plain between two and three
miles broad between the sea and the hill called Round
Head. There are many villages on the hills along this part
of the coast. We anchored close to the shore. A number
of natives were on the beach, but could not be induced
to visit us on board. We went ashore to them after
dinner. They knew Mr. Lawes by name only, and became
more easy when he assured them that he was really and
truly Misi Lao. They professed friendship by calling
out, Maino, maino ! catching hold of their noses, and
pointing to their stomachs. After a little time, two ven
tured to accompany Mr. Lawes on board, and received
presents. I remained ashore, astonishing others by striking
matches, and showing off my arms and chest. The
women were so frightened that they all kept at a re
spectful distance. These are the natives from an inland
village that killed a Port Moresby native about the begin
ning of the year. When those who accompanied Mr.
Lawes on board the Mayri returned to the shore, they were
instantly surrounded by their friends, who seized the
presents and made off. They had received fish, biscuit, and
taro. The taro and fish were smelt all over, and carefully
examined before eaten. The biscuit was wrapped up
again in the paper.
On Sunday, November 4, we were beating down
through innumerable reefs, and at 8 P.M. we anchored
about three miles from Hula. The following morning we
went up to the village, the Mayri anchoring close by the
houses. The country about here looks fine and green, a
very striking contrast to that around Port Moresby. The
further east we get from Port Moresby, the finer the

38 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
country looks. The people are also superior — finer made
men and women, and really pretty boys and girls — more,
altogether, like our eastern South Sea Islanders. The
married women spoil their looks by keeping their heads
shaven. They seem fond of their children : men and
women nurse them. They were busy preparing their large
canoes to visit Port Moresby, on the return of the Port
Moresby canoes from the west with sago.
About 3 in the afternoon an old woman made her
appearance at the door of the mission-house, bawling out,
' Well, what liars these Hula people are ; some of them
were inland this morning, and the chief asked them if Misi
Lao had .come, and they said no.' The chief, who saw
the vessel from the hill-top where his village is, thought
it strange the vessel should be there without Misi Lao,
so sent this woman to learn the truth. She received a
present for herself and the chief, and went away quite
happy. Next morning, November 6, we left Hula with a fair
wind, and were anchored close to Kerepunu by g A.M.
The Bertha was anchored fully two miles off. Kerepunu is
a magnificent place, and its people are very fine-looking.
It is one large town of seven districts, with fine houses, all
arranged in streets, crotons and other plants growing about,
and cockatoos perching in front of nearly every house.
One part of the population plant, another fish, and the
planters buy the fish with their produce. Men, women,
and children are all workers ; they go to their plantations
in the morning and return to their homes in the evening,
only sick ones remaining at home ; thus accounting for the
number of scrofulous people we saw going about when we
first landed. They have a rule, to which they strictly
adhere all the year round, of working for two days and
resting the third.
The Bertha arrived here on Friday evening. Mrs.

EARLY EXPERIENCES 39
Chalmers was at the forenoon service on the Sunday, and
found there a large congregation. The service was held
on the platform of one of the largest houses. Anederea
preached, a number sitting on the platform, others in the
house, others on the ground all round, and many at the
doors of their own houses, where they could hear all that
was said. Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu, to
revise for the press a small book Anederea has been
preparing, and to follow us to Teste Island in the Ellen-
gowan. We left Kerepunu on the morning of November 8, the
Mayri leaving at the same time, to sail down inside the
surf. We went right out to sea, so as to beat down, had
fine weather, and were off Teste Island by the 16th. After
dinner we took the boat, and with the captain went in on
the east side of the island through the reef, to sound and
find anchorage. When we reached the lagoon a catamaran
with three natives on it came off to us. We asked for
Koitau, the chief, which at once gave them confidence in
us, so that they came alongside, one getting into the boat.
He expressed his friendship to us in the usual way — viz.
by touching his nose and stomach — and being very much
excited, seized hold of Mr. Macfarlane and rubbed noses
with him, doing the same to me. He received a present of
a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which greatly
pleased him. We found the water was deep enough over
the reef for the vessel, and good anchorage inside. We
went on to the village, to see about the supply of water.
The people were very friendly, and crowded round us.
We were led up to a platform in front of one of their large
houses, and there seated and regaled with cocoanuts. The
natives here are much darker than are those at Kerepunu ;
most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking skin
disease, which causes the skin to peel off in scales. In
their conversation with one another I recognised several

40 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Polynesian words. The water is obtained by digging in
the sand, and is very brackish.
We came to anchor next morning, and soon were sur
rounded with canoes, and our deck swarmed with natives
trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts, and fish for beads and
hoop-iron. Many were swearing friendship, and exchang
ing names with us, in hopes of getting hoop-iron. There is
as great a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at Port
Moresby. They told us they disliked fighting, but delighted
in the dance, betel nut, and sleep. The majority have jet-
black teeth, which they consider very beautiful, and all have
their noses and ears pierced, with various sorts of nose and
ear-rings, chiefly made from shell, inserted. A crown piece
could easily be put through the lobe of their ears.
We went ashore in the afternoon. There are three
villages, all close to one another. Their houses are built
on poles, and are shaped like a canoe turned bottom
upwards, others like one in the water. They ornament
their houses on the outside with cocoanuts and shells.
The nabobs of the place had skulls on the posts of their
houses, which they said belonged to the enemies they had
killed and eaten. One skull was very much fractured ;
they told us it was done with a stone axe, and showed us
how they used these weapons.
We tried to explain to them that no one was to come
to the vessel the next day, as it was a sacred day. In the
early morning some canoes came off to trade, but we sent
them ashore ; a few more followed about breakfast time,
which were also sent ashore. In the afternoon our old
friend of the preceding day came off with his wife and two
sons. He called out that he did not wish to come on
board, but that he had brought some cooked food. We
accepted his present, and he remained with his family in
his canoe alongside the vessel for some time, and then
went quietly ashore. We had three services on board, one

EARLY EXPERIENCES 41
in the forenoon in Lifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan,
and in the evening in English.
As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the main
land, with a dead beat to it, I decided to seek for a position
more accessible to New Guinea, and as I had not a teacher
to spare for this little island, Mr. Macfarlane decided to
leave two of the Loyalty Island teachers here. It is fertile,
and appears healthy, is two and a half miles long and half
a mile broad. A ridge of hills runs right through its centre
from east-north-east to west-south-west. The natives have
some fine plantations on the north side, and on the south
and east sides they have yam plantations to the very tops
of the hills. There are plantations and fruit trees all round
the island.
On Monday I accompanied Mr. Macfarlane when he
went ashore to make arrangements to land his teachers
and secure a house for them. The people seemed pleased
that some of our party would remain with them. We
passed a tabooed place, or rather would have done so had
we not been forced to take a circuitous path in the bush.
None of the natives spoke as we passed the place, nor till
we were clear of it ; they made signs also to us to be silent.
A woman had died there lately, and the friends were still
mourning. There had been no dancing in the settlement
since the death, nor would there be any for some days to
come. I think women are more respected here than they are
in some other heathen lands. They seem to keep fast hold
of their own possessions. A man stole an ornament
belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop-iron on board
the Bertha. When he went ashore he was met on the
beach by his spouse, who had in the meantime missed her
trinket ; she assailed him with tongue, stick, and stone, and
demanded the hoop-iron.
The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were

42 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
well received. The natives all promised to care for them,
and treat them kindly. There are about 250 natives on
the island. Next morning we left, but, owing to light
winds, we did not anchor in Hoop Iron Bay, off Moresby
Island, till the morning of November 22. The an
chorage here is in an open roadstead. It is a very fine
island — the vegetation from the water's edge right up
to the mountain tops. Plantations are to be seen
all round. The people live in small detached companies,
and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking a people as
are the Teste Islanders. This is the great Basilaki, and
the natives are apparently the deadly foes of all the
islanders round. Before we anchored, we were surrounded
by catamarans (three small logs lashed together) and
canoes — spears in them all.
Mr. Macfarlane decided, as soon as we came to the
island, that he would not land his teachers here ; and I
did not consider it a suitable place as a head station for
New Guinea. We left Moresby Island at 6 A.M. on
November 23, and beat through Fortescue Straits, between
Moresby and Basilisk Islands. The scenery was grand —
everything looked so fresh and green, very different from
the death-like appearance of Port Moresby and vicinity.
The four teachers were close behind us, in their large
whale-boat, with part of their things. On getting out of
the straits, we saw East Cape ; but as there is no anchor
age there we made for Killerton Island, about ten miles
from the cape. The wind being very light, it was 8 P.M.
before we anchored : the boat got up an hour after us.
There was apparently great excitement ashore; lights
were moving about in all directions, but none came to us.
In the morning, a catamaran with two boys ventured
alongside of us ; they got a present, and went away shout
ing. Soon we were surrounded with catamarans and
canoes, with three or four natives in each. They had no

1 'i iW

44 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
spears with them, nor did they kill a dog on our quarter
deck, as they did on that of the Basilisk. They appeared
quite friendly, and free from shyness. They brought off
their curios to barter for beads, red cloth, and the much-
valued hoop-iron. The whole country looked productive
and beautiful. After breakfast, we went ashore, and were
led through swampy ground to see the water. On our
return to the shore, we went in search of a position for the
mission settlement, but could not get one far enough away
from the swamp, so we took the boat and sailed a mile
or two nearer the cape, where we found an excellent
position near a river. Mr. Macfarlane obtained a fine new
house for the teachers, in which they are to remain till they
get a house built. We took all the teachers' goods ashore,
which the natives helped to carry to the house. One man,
who considered himself well dressed, kept near us all day.
He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg : he fastened the
body of the trousers round his head, and let the leg fall
gracefully down his back.
On the following morning, two large canoes — twenty
paddles in each — came in from somewhere about Milne
Bay. They remained for some time near the shore, getting
all the news they could about us from the shore folk ; then
the leader amongst them stood up and caught his nose
and pointed to his stomach — we doing the same. The
large canoes went ashore, and the chief came off to us in a
small one. We gave him a present, which greatly pleased
him. After breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service with
the teachers. We met under a large tree, near their house.
About 600 natives were about us, and all round outside of
the crowd were men armed with spears and clubs. Mr.
Macfarlane preached. When the first hymn was being
sung, a number of women and children got up and ran into
the bush. The service was short ; at its close we sat down

EARLY EXPERIENCES 45
and sang hymns, which seemed' to amuse them greatly.
The painted and armed men were not at all pleasant-
looking fellows.
At 2 in the morning (Monday) we weighed anchor
and returned to Moresby Island. The wind was very
light, and we had to anchor at the entrance to Fortescue
Straits. Next morning we sailed through the straits, and
on coming out on the opposite side we were glad to see
the Bertha beating outside. By noon we were on board
the Bertha and off for South Cape, the Mayri going to
Teste Island with a letter, telling the captain of the
Ellengowan to follow us, and also to see if the teachers
were all right.
By evening we were well up to South Cape. The
captain did not care to get too near at night, and stood away
till morning. About 10 next morning I accompanied the
captain in the boat, to sound and look for anchorage, which
we found in twenty-two fathoms, near South-West Point.
By half-past 5 that evening we anchored. The excite
ment ashore was great, and before the anchor was really
down we were surrounded by canoes. As a people, they
are small and puny, and much darker than the Eastern
Polynesians. They were greatly excited over Pi's baby, a
fine plump little fellow, seven months old, who, beside
them, seemed a white child. Indeed, all they saw greatly
astonished them. Canoes came off to us very early in
the morning. About half-past 7, when we were ready to
go ashore, there arose great consternation amongst the
natives. Three large war canoes, with conch shells blow
ing, appeared off the mainland and paddled across the
Mayri Straits. Soon a large war canoe appeared near the
vessel. A great many small canoes from various parts of
the mainland were ordered off by those on whose side we
were anchored. They had to leave. On their departure a
great shout was raised by the victorious party, and in a

46 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
short time all returned quietly to their bartering. It
seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all the
bartering to themselves. They did not wish the rest to
obtain hoop-iron or any other foreign wealth. They are
at feud with one party on the mainland, and I suppose in
their late contests have been victorious, for they told us
with great exultation that they had lately killed and eaten
ten of their enemies from the mainland.
About 9, we went ashore near the anchorage. I
crossed the island to the village, but did not feel satisfied
as to the position. One of our guides to the village wore,
as an armlet, the jawbone of a man from the mainland he
had killed and eaten ; others strutted about with human
bones dangling from their hair and about their necks. It
is only the village Tepauri on the mainland with which
they are unfriendly. We returned to the boat, and sailed
along the coast. On turning a cape, we came to a pretty
village, on a well-wooded point. The people were friendly,
and led us to see the water, of which there is a good supply.
This is the spot for which we have been in search as a
station for beginning work. We can go anywhere from
here, and are surrounded by villages. The mainland is
not more than a gun-shot across. God has led us. We
made arrangements for a house for the teachers ; then re
turned to the vessel.
In the afternoon I landed the teachers, their wives, and
part of their goods — the people helping to carry the stuff
to the house. The house in which the teachers are to reside
till our own is finished is the largest in the place, but they
can only get the use of one end of it — the owner, who con
siders himself the chief man of the place, requiring the
other end for himself and family. The partition between
the two ends is only two feet high. Skulls, shells, and
cocoanuts are hung all about the house ; the skulls are
those of the enemies he and his people have eaten. Inside

EARLY EXPERIENCES 47
the house, hung up on the wall, is a very large collection of
human bones, bones of animals and of fish.
1 selected a spot for our house on the point of land
nearest the mainland. It is a large sand-hill, and well
wooded at the back. We have a good piece of land, with
bread-fruit and other fruit trees on it, which I hope soon
to have cleared and planted with food, for the benefit of
the teachers who may be here awaiting their stations, as well
as for the teacher for the place. The frontage is the straits,
with the mainland right opposite. There is a fine anchor
age close to the house for vessels of any size.
Early next morning there was great excitement ashore.
The large war canoe came off, with drums beating and
men dancing. They came alongside the Bertha, and pre
sented us with a small pig and food. Then the men came
on board and danced. The captain gave them a return
present. Mr. Macfarlane and I went ashore immediately
after breakfast, and found that the teachers had been kindly
treated. We gave some natives a few axes, and they at once
set off to cut wood for the house, and before we returned
to the vessel in the evening two posts were up. As the
Bertha's time was up, and the season for the trade winds
closing, everything was done to get on with the house.
Mr. Macfarlane worked well. Two men from the Bertha
and two from the Mayri joined with the four teachers in the
work, and by Tuesday the framework was nearly up. We
landed our things that day, and immediately after break
fast on Wednesday, December 5, we went ashore to reside ;
and about 10 A.M. the Bertha left. On the Tuesday, Mr.
Macfarlane and I visited several villages on the main
land : three in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy,
from the many swamps and high mountains around. The
people appeared friendly, and got very excited over the
presents we gave them.
On Sunday, we met for our usual public services under

48 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
a large tree, and a number of natives attended, who of
course could not make out what was said, as they were
conducted in Rarotongan. At our morning and evening
prayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the
singing. We see quite a number of strangers every day —
some from Brumer Island, Tissot, Teste, China Straits,
Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and other places. Those from
Vakavaka — a place over by China Straits — are lighter and
better-looking than those here. The women there do not
seem to tattoo themselves. Here they tattoo themselves
all over their faces and bodies, and make themselves look
very ugly. I have not seen one large man or woman
amongst them all.
We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply
of plaited cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of our
house. By December 14 we had the walls and roof
finished, when all our party moved into it. We had a
curtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers'
end and ours, and curtains for doors and windows, but
were glad to get into it in that unfinished state ; the
weather was breaking, and we felt anxious about the
teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained, and we had
no privacy at all where we were, and were tired of squatting
on the ground, for we could not get a chair in our part of
the house ; indeed, the flooring was of such a construction
that the legs of a chair or table would have soon gone
through it.
On December 13 we were busy getting the wood we
had cut for the flooring of our house into the sea to be
rafted along ; got ten large pieces into the water by break
fast time. After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at
the new house, with the captain of the Mayri, when we
heard a noise like quarrelling. On looking out, I saw the
natives very excited, and many of them running with spears
and clubs towards the house where Mrs. Chalmers, about

¦Mmmm
WSSmm^-

m

m

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50 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
five minutes before, had left the teachers rising from break
fast. I hastened over, and pushed my way amongst the
natives till I got to the front, when, to my horror, I was
right in front of a gun aimed by one of the Mayri's crew
(who had been helping us with the house) at a young man
brandishing a spear. The aim was perfect : had the gun
been fired— as it would have been had I not arrived in time
— the native would have been shot dead. I pushed the
native aside, and ordered the gun to be put down, and
turned to the natives, shouting, Best, desi! (Enough,
enough !) Some of them returned their spears and clubs,
but others remained threatening. I spoke to our party
against using firearms, and then I caught the youth who
was flourishing his spear, and with difficulty got it from
him. Poor fellow ! he cried with rage, yet he did me no
harm. I clapped him, and got him to go away. All day
he sat under a tree, which we had frequently to pass, but
he would have nothing to say to us. It seems a knife had
been stolen, and he being the only one about the house
when it was missed, was accused of taking it. One of the
teachers was winding line, and he caught the young fellow
by the arm to inquire about the knife. The lad thought
he was going to be tied up with the line : he struggled, got
free, and raised the alarm.
Only the night before I had to warn the teachers against
using firearms to alarm or threaten the natives. An axe
was stolen ; every place about was searched for it, and for
some time without its being found. At last, a native found
it buried in the sand near where it was last used. It had
evidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity
should occur of taking it away. During the search, the
owner of the axe (one of the teachers) ran off for his gun,
and came rushing over with it. I ordered him to take it
back, and in the evening told them it was only in New
Guinea that guns were used by missionaries. It was not

EARLY EXPERIENCES Si
so in any other mission I knew of, and if we could not live
amongst the natives without arms, we had better remain at
home ; and if I saw arms used again by them for anything
except birds, or the like, I should have the whole of them
thrown into the sea.
In the afternoon of December 14 I went over to the
house in which we had been staying, to stir up the teachers
to get the things over more quickly ; Mrs. Chalmers re
maining at the new house to look after the things there, as,
without doors or flooring, everything was exposed. I went
to the seaside to call to the captain of the Mayri to send
us the boat ashore, when, on looking towards my left, I
saw twenty armed natives hurrying along. Though painted,
I recognised some of them as those who were very friendly
on board the Bertha, and spoke to them ; but they hurried
past, frowning, and saying something I did not understand.
They went straight on to the chief's house, and surrounded
our party. I passed through, and stood in front of them.
One very ugly-looking customer was brandishing his spear
close by me. It was an anxious moment, and one in which
I am sure many would have used firearms. I called out to
the teachers, ' Remain quiet.' Our chief sprung out on to
the platform in front of the house and harangued. He
was very excited. Shortly he called to the teachers, in
signs and words, to bring out their guns and fire. They
refused. He then rushed into the house and seized a gun,
and was making off with it when one of the teachers caught
hold of him. I, seeing the teacher with the chief, thought
something was wrong, and went to them. We quieted him,
and did our best to explain to him that we were no
fighters, but men of peace. The babel all round us was
terrible. By-and-by a request was made to me to give the
chief from the other side a present, and get him away. I
said, ' No ; had he come in peace, and as a chief, I would
have given him a present, but I will not do so now.' They

52 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
retired to deliberate, and sent another request for a present.
' No ; no presents to men in arms. If the chief returns to
morrow unarmed, he will get a present.' It seems they
are vexed with our living here instead of with them,
because they find those here are getting what they consider
very rich by our living with them. When quiet was re
stored, we returned to the carrying of our things. When
we came to the last few things, our chief objected to their
removal until he got a farewell present. He had been paid
for the use of the house before any of us entered it ;
but we gave him another present, and so finished the
business. Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub.
It belonged to the teachers at East Cape. It had only
been lent to us, so we had to get it back. The next
morning the chief from the other side came to see me. He
received a present, and looked particularly sheepish when
I tried to explain to him that we did not like fighting. All
day I took care to show that I was very displeased at the
loss of the saw, and by the evening I was told that it had
been taken by those on the other side ; and offers of
returning it were made, but I saw I was expected to buy
it from them. I said, ' No ; I will not buy what was
stolen from me ; the saw must be returned, and I will
give an axe to the one who goes for it, and fetches it to
me.' The following day, Sunday, we held the usual services
under a large tree near the mission-house. A great many
strangers present ; the latter were very troublesome. On
Monday afternoon the saw was returned. The Mayri left
us that day, to visit the teachers at East Cape. The people
are getting quieter. At present they are chiefly interested
in the sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house.
They work willingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few
beads, but cannot do much continuously. They seem to

EARLY EXPERIENCES 53
have no kind of worship, and their sports are few. The
children swing, bathe, and sail small canoes. The grown
up people have their dance — a very poor sort of thing. A
band of youths with drums stand close together, and in a
most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the drums.
The dancers dance round the men once or twice, and all
stop to rest a bit. I have been twice present when only

NATIVES OF SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA

the women danced. They bury their dead, and place
houses over the graves, which they fence round, planting
crotons, bananas, etc., inside. They do their cooking
inside their houses. It was very hot and uncomfortable
when we were in the native house. The master being a
sort of chief, and having a large household, a great deal of
cooking was required. Three large fires were generally
burning in their end of the house for the greater part of the

54 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
day. The heat and smoke from these fires were not nice.
Indeed, they generally had one or two burning all night, to
serve for blankets, I suppose.
We went on with our work about the place, getting on
well with the natives and with those from other parts. We
became so friendly with the natives that I had hoped to
go about with them in their canoes. Several natives
from one of the settlements invited me to visit their
place, and said that if I went with them in their canoe
they would return me. I went with them, and was
well received by all the people at the settlement, where I
spent some hours. On December 21 the Mayri returned
from East Cape, and reported that all were sick, but that
the people were very friendly and kind to teachers.
Anxious to keep the vessel employed, and to prepare the
way for landing teachers, I resolved to visit a settlement
on the mainland at deadly feud with this people. The
people here tried hard to dissuade me from going, telling
me that as I stayed with them my head would be cut off.
Seeing me determined to go, they brought skulls, saying
mine would be like that, to adorn their enemies' war canoe,
or hang outside the chief's house. Feeling sure that they
did not wish me to go because they were afraid the hoop-
iron, the knives, axes, beads, and cloth might also be dis
tributed on the other side, I told them I must go ; so they
left me to my fate.
I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave there.
We were received very kindly by the people. They led us
inland, to show us there was water, and when we got back
to the seaside they regaled us with sugar-cane and cocoa-
nuts. They then told us that they did not live at the
village, but at the next, and merely came here for food.
We then got into a canoe, and were paddled up to the
other village, where a great crowd assembled, and where
we publicly gave the chiefs our presents. They danced

EARLY EXPERIENCES 55
with delight, and told the teacher not to be long until he
came to reside with them.
On our return we thought our friends seemed dis
appointed. We had suffered no harm ; however, as I had
been unwell for some days, and felt worse on the day
following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured me it
was because of our visiting Tepauri. We had several things
stolen, and amongst other things a camp oven, which we
miss much. Yet these are things which must be borne,
and we can hope that some day their stealing propensities
will change. From a very unexpected source, and in a very
unexpected manner, the whole prospects of this eastern
mission seemed all at once to be upset.
About 12 o'clock on December 29 three lads from
the Mayri came ashore to cut firewood. One of them came
to me, saying, ' I 'fraid, sir, our captain he too fast with
natives. One big follow he come on board, and he sit
down below. Captain he tell him get up ; he no get up.
Captain he get sword, and he tell him, s'pose he no get up
he cut head off; he get up, go ashore. I fear he no all
right.' They left me and went towards the sawpit. Some
men were clearing at the back of my house, some were
putting up a cook-house, and the teachers were sawing
wood. On the cook-house being finished, I was paying
the men, when, on hearing a great noise, I rose up and
saw those who were at the sawpit running away and
leaping the fence, and heard firing as if from the vessel.
I rushed into the house with my bag, and then out to see
what it was. I saw natives on board the Mayri, and some
in canoes ; they were getting the hawser ashore, and
pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take the vessel. Every
where natives were appearing, some armed, and others
unarmed. Two of the lads from the vessel, wishing to get
on board, went to their boat, but found the natives would
not let it go. I shouted to the natives detaining it to let

56 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
it go, which they did. Had I not been near, they would
certainly have been fired upon by the two lads, who were
armed with muskets. Before the boat got to the vessel I
saw natives jump overboard, and soon the firing became
brisker. I rushed along the beach, calling upon the
natives to get into the bush, and to those on board to cease
firing. Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at
the chief's house, where I was pressed to go. A man was
shot through the leg and arm. On running through the
village to the house to get something for the wounded man,
I was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely, shot
through the left arm, the bullet entering the chest. I got
some medicine and applied it to both.
When I reached the house I found Mrs. Chalmers the
only calm person there. Natives were all around armed.
When at the chief's house with medicine I was told there
was still another, and he was on board. They kept shouting,
' Boeasi, Boeasi,' the name of the man who was on board
in the morning. I found a small canoe all over blood, and
two natives paddled me off. On getting alongside, I saw
the captain sitting on deck, looking very white, and blood
all about him. I asked, ' Is there still a man on board ? '
Answer : ' Yes.' ' Is he shot ? ' ' Yes.' ' Dead ? ' ' Yes.'
He was dead, and lying below. I was afraid to remain
long on board, and would not risk landing with the body ;
nor would it do for the body to be landed before me, as
then I might be prevented from landing at all ; so I got
into the canoe, in which one native was sitting. The other
was getting the body to place in the canoe ; but I said,
' Not in this one, but a larger one.' So ashore I went; and
hastened to the house. I understood the captain to say that
they attempted to take his life, and this big man, armed
with a large sugar-cane knife, was coming close up, and he
shot him dead. The captain's foot was frightfully cut. He
had a spear head in his side, and several other wounds.

EARLY EXPERIENCES 57
The principal people seemed friendly, and kept assuring
us that all was right, we should not be harmed. Great was
the wailing when the body was landed, and arms were up
and down pretty frequently. Canoes began to crowd in
from the regions around. A man who had all along been
very friendly and kept close by us advised us strongly to
leave during the night, as assuredly, when the war canoes
from the different parts came in, we should be murdered.
I asked Mrs. Chalmers what she thought, but she was
decidedly opposed to our leaving. She said, ' God will pro
tect us. The vessel is too small, and not provisioned, and
to leave will be to lose our position as well as endangering
Teste and East Cape. We came here for Christ's work,
and He will protect us.'
In the dusk one of the crew came ashore, saying that
the captain was very ill, and wanted to go off to Murray
Island. I could not go on board and leave them here.
We consented to the vessel's leaving, and I gave the lad
some medicine for the captain, and asked him to send on
shore all he could spare in the way of beads, etc. I took
all that was necessary, and about half-past 7 the vessel
left. We were told we should have .to pay something to
smooth over the trouble, which we were quite willing to do.
Late at night we had things ready. We had our evening
prayers in Rarotongan, reading Psalm xlvi., and feeling
that God was truly our refuge.
People were early about on the 30th. We gave the
things which were prepared, and they were accepted. The
people from the settlement to which the man belonged who
was shot came to attack us, but the people here ordered
them back. Many people came in from islands and main
land. A number of so-called chiefs tell us no one will
injure us, and that we can go on with our work. We thought
it not well to have services out of doors to-day, so held
prayer-meetings in the house.

58 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Great crowds came in from all round on the 31st, and
many war canoes. The people were extremely impudent,
jumping the fence and taking no heed of what we said.
One of the chief men of the settlement to which the man
who was shot belongs returned from Vaare (Teste Island).
He seemed friendly, and I gave him a present. I had an
invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settle
ments. Some said it would consist of two men and a
child, others of five and a child. The people continued
troublesome all day, and seemed to think we had nothing
else to do than attend to their demands.
On January 1 we were told we might be attacked.
There was a great wailing assembly at the other village.
A canoe from Tanosine, with a great many ugly-looking
men, passed, and our friends here seemed to fear they
would attack us. We thought everything settled, and that
we should have no more to pay. The warp belonging to
the Mayri was carried past to-day and offered for sale ; but
I would have nothing to do with it. We have tried the
meek and quiet up till now, and they only become more
impudent and threatening. Having tried the peaceful and
pleasant, we determined to show the natives that we were
not afraid, and resisted every demand, and insisted that
there should be no more leaping the fence. On demands
being made, I shouted, ' No more ; wait, and when Beri-
tama fighting canoe comes, then make your demands.'
They seemed afraid, and became less troublesome.
In the afternoon of January 2 the parties who had the
hawser brought it to me ; but I would have nothing to do
with it. I told them if Pouairo, the settlement of the man
who was shot, determines to attack us, let them come ; we,
too, can fight. One of the teachers fired off his gun at
some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and the bullet went
clean through a limb of it ; it caused great exclamations,
and crowds went to look at it.

NEW GUINEA WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS

60 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
The hawser was returned and left outside. We took no
notice of it. The people were much quieter, and no
demands were made. The cannibal feast was held. Some
of our friends appeared with pieces of human flesh dangling
from their neck and arms. The child was spared for a
future time, it being considered too small. Amidst all the
troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the only one who kept calm
and well.
The Ellengowan arrived on January 20. The natives
were beginning to think no vessel would come ; but when
it arrived they were frightened, and willing to forget the
Mayri affair. A few days before she arrived some of our
friends warned us against going too far away from the
house. After her arrival we were able to go about among
the people again.

6i

CHAPTER III
SOUTH CAPE IN 1 878 AND IN 1 882
IN 1878 missionary work was begun at South Cape, and
four years after the establishment of that mission, on a
review of the past, what evidences of progress were to be
seen ! There were signs of light breaking in upon the
long, dark night of heathenism. Looking at the condition
of this people when the missionaries and teachers first landed,
what did they find ? A people sunk in crime that to them
has become a custom and religion — a people in whom
murder is the finest art, and who from their earliest years
study it. Disease, sickness, and death have ' all to be
accounted for. They know nothing of malaria, filth, or
contagion. Hence they hold that an enemy causes these
things, and friends have to see that due punishment is
made. The large night firefly helps to point in the
direction of that enemy, or the spirits of departed ones are
called in through spiritists' influence to come and assist
and the medium pronouncing a neighbouring tribe guilty,
the time is near when that tribe will be visited and cruel
deeds done. They know nothing of a God of Love — only
gods and spirits who are ever revengeful, and must be
appeased ; who fly about in the night and disturb the
peace of homes. It is gross darkness and cruelty, brother's
hand raised against brother's. Great is the chief who claims
many skulls ; and the youth who may wear a jawbone as
an armlet is to be admired.
When we first landed here, the natives lived only to

62 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
fight* and the victory was celebrated by a cannibal feast.
It is painfully significant to find that the only field in
which New Guinea natives have shown much skill and
ingenuity is in the manufacture of weapons. The illustra
tion shows one of the most deadly of these in use. It is
known as a man-catcher, and was invented by the natives
of Hood Bay, but all over the vast island this loop of
rattan cane is the constant companion of head-hunters.
The peculiarity of the weapon is the deadly spike inserted
in the handle. The modus operandi is as follows : — The
loop is thrown over the unhappy wretch who is in retreat,
and a vigorous pull from the brawny arm of the vengeful
captor jerks the victim upon the spike, which (if the weapon
be deftly handled) penetrates the body at the base of the
brain, or if lower down, in the spine, in either case inflicting
a death-wound. All these things are changed, or in process of change.
For several years there have been no cannibal ovens, no
desire for skulls. Tribes that could not formerly meet but
to fight, now meet as friends, and sit side by side in the
same house worshipping the true God. Men and women
who, on the arrival of the mission, sought the missionaries'
lives, are only anxious now to do what they can to assist
them, even to the washing of their feet. How the change
came about is simply by the use of the same means as
those acted upon in many islands in the Pacific. The first
missionaries landed not only to preach the Gospel of
Divine love, but also to live it, and to show to the savage
a more excellent way than theirs. Learning the language,
mixing freely with them, showing kindnesses, receiving the
same, travelling with them, differing from them, making
friends, assisting them in their trading, and in every way
making them feel that their good only was sought They
thought at first that we were compelled to leave our own
land because of hunger !

SAVAGE LIFE IN NEW GUINEA

64 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Teachers were placed amongst the people; many
sickened and died. There was a time of great trial, but
how changed is everything now ! Four years pass on,
and in 1882 we visit them. We left Port Moresby, and
arrived at South Cape on a Sunday. Morning service was
finished, and from the vessel we saw a number of natives
well dressed, standing near the mission-house, waiting to
receive us. The teachers came off, and with them several
lads, neatly dressed. After hearing from them of the work,
and of how the people were observing the Sabbath, we
landed, and were met by a quiet, orderly company of men,
women, and boys, who welcomed us as real friends. The
first to shake hands with us was a chief from the opposite
side of the bay, who in early days gave us much trouble,
and had to be well watched. Now he was dressed, and his
appearance much altered. It was now possible to meet
him and feel he was a friend. We found Pi Vaine very ill,
and not likely to live long ; yet she lived long enough to
rejoice in the glorious success of the Gospel of Christ, and
to see many of those for whom she laboured profess
Christianity. We were astonished, when we met in the
afternoon, at the orderly service, the nice, welt-tuned
singing of hymns, translated by the teacher, and the
attention when he read a chapter in Mark's Gospel —
translated by him from the Rarotongan into the dialect of
the place. When he preached to them, all listened atten
tively, and seemed to be anxious not to forget a single
word. Two natives prayed with great earnestness and
solemnity. After service all remained, and were catechised
on the sermon, and then several present stood up and ex
horted their friends to receive the Gospel. Many strangers
were present, and they were exhorted to come as often as
possible and hear the good news. Then, again, others
offered prayers. We found that numbers came in on the
Saturday with food and cooking pots, and remained until

SOUTH CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882 65
Monday morning. They lived with the teachers, and
attended all the services, beginning with a prayer-meeting
on Saturday night.
During our stay of a few days they all remained at the
station, and we saw much of them. The teachers said
there were twenty-one who professed faith in Christ and
had given up heathenism and desired baptism. We visited
further on to the east, and we were a week away on our
return to South Cape, and after close examination of each
candidate we decided to baptize them on the following
Tuesday. The service was most interesting, and well
attended by persons from various places. At night we
examined the children and grown-up people who attended
school, and were much pleased with them. A few could
read in the Motu dialect ; others knew how to put letters
together and form words. Of those baptized several were
anxious to be instructed, that they might be better fitted
to do work for Christ amongst their own countrymen.
Already they held services, and exhorted in other villages,
and when travelling they did all the good they could to
others. The harvest ripens fast : where shall we look for
labourers ? The Master has said, ' Pray.' May they soon be
sent ! The light is shining, the darkness is breaking, and
the thick clouds are moving, and the hidden ones are being
gathered in. We have already plucked the first flowers ;
stern winter yields, and soon we shall have the full spring,
the singing of birds, and the trees in full blossom. Hasten
it, O Lord, we plead !

66 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

CHAPTER IV
A TRIP TO OIABU AND MEKEO
Visiting the West in 1883 and placing teachers at Maiva
afforded us a good opportunity of seeing the district of
Oiabu. Three years before, when visiting in the Gulf, we
passed the eastern villages of this district, leaving them
unvisited because the natives with us would not land, and
spoke of the inhabitants as a tribe of pirates and murderers.
As we were about to land young and inexperienced teachers
in a new field, we were very anxious, and intended staying
near them much longer than we are generally able to do.
Invited by an old Oiabuan chief, who visited us at Maiva,
to go to his village, we sent him home, saying we should
soon follow. Before starting on a trip there is a great
deal of work and excitement about the station. Orders
are being given on all hands ; sails, oars, mast, and boat
are all under way ; swag-making, food-boxing, collecting
articles for trade, such as knives, tomahawks, beads, and
tobacco, are all in full swing.
It was a beautiful morning, a fine land breeze and a
smooth sea, little surf on the beach, and our small colony
all alive long before daylight. A hurried breakfast, and
soon it is, ' Launch boat, and let us away.' For the first
time Maiva natives are to act as crew; only one Motu
native accompanies us, our friend Vaaburi, who swears he
can never leave me, but where I go he must go, and where
I stay he must stay. It was delightful sailing along the

4l

A WM HOUSE FOR WOKwTat KOIARI

/^r^-

E2

68 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
coast, light wind, and two oars out. On rounding Cape
Possession we had a strong current from the west, and the
wind getting very light, we had to put out four oars and
pull in close by the breakers. Soon our Maiva crew gave
in and pulled away weakly, our Motu friend blowing them
up, and saying he thought they were strong and able for
any distance. ' Only wait until we become accustomed to
these oars, and then ! ' 'Ah, do you think you will beat
us then ? ' And so the quiet chaff goes on, helping to keep
up the Maiva boys a little. About 1 1 o'clock A.M. we were
off the first western village, where no white face had ever
been seen. Getting through the surf, we struck on a bank,
where we were met by the natives. Just beyond was
another sheet of water, then the shore. Anxious that Mrs.
Lawes should have the .satisfaction of being the first to
land among these pirates and murderers and on this part
of the coast, a teacher on board picked her up and
attempted to carry her from the bank to the shore, but,
misjudging her weight, by comparing her in his mind with
fever-stricken and worn-out beings, he was compelled to
let her down in about three feet of water, when she waded
ashore, the first really to land amongst these savages.
What a reception ! Men, women, and children gather
round, all are talking and shouting ; a number come off to
us, and help us into the lagoon, and soon we are all received
in grand style, our boat is caught up, and away they walk
with her far beyond high-water mark into the bush. What
boots it now ? We are entirely in their hands, and away
we go, they carrying our goods to the village, a miserable
collection of houses for New Guinea. There was one large
temple. When Mrs. Lawes saw it she said, ' Why, impos
sible ; I cannot go there. You surely do not expect me to
ascend that ladder to such a height ! ' Ah, well, madam,
if a better can be found, and something more terrestrial,
so much the better. ' Take our gear somewhere else ; the

A TRIP TO 01 ABU AND MEKEO 69
lady cannot climb up these poles!' Away we go to
another. Well, it was one foot lower, but certainly not
more, and there were, perhaps, one or two more rungs in
the ladder. It was a house 70 feet long and 20 feet broad,
built on posts 18 feet from the ground ; in front a large
entrance or platform, in shape like a crocodile's mouth
under jaw — platform, upper jaw— shade. Ah, dear lady,
and what now ? No weapons of any kind, and a crowd of
excited savages all round, all urging ascent. Rungs are
about 2\ feet apart, and made for more nimble legs. Here
goes ; and we climb. Not nearly so bad as was antici
pated : the shaky binding gave way, and we might easily
have gone over ; but never mind, up, and wait to go down.
The dubu is clean, and is at once handed over to us.
' Tamate, you take all for yourself and friends.'
I was never here before, yet find I am an old friend.
Having been long without food, we soon had a good
fire on the platform, and kettle and pans on. I enjoy
this kind of camping when with good, free-hearted com
panions, men and women who look upon a little roughing
as thoroughly enjoyable, and who for the sake of it would
leave their comfortable homes to have a spell of it. The
dubu has only one small door into it from the verandah ;
inside it is dark, but when the eyes become accustomed,
benches down both sides are seen, and nets, drums, bows,
and . arrows are all about. A large crowd of men gather
on the platform, in order to have a good look at us. No
women or children are allowed to ascend the ladder. The
cooking was intensely interesting to them. While we were
dining they behaved remarkably well, permitting us to eat
in peace, and, sitting down, making quiet remarks amongst
themselves. On our leaving, the chief proffered his services to lead
his new-made friends about. We crossed the creek and
came to a tolerably large village, where there was drum-

70 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
ming, dancing, and feasting. It was one of their annual
feasts. Squatting right in the centre of the village is our
friend Vaaburi, surrounded by an admiring crowd. He is
teaching them some new music, accompanying it with the
drum. When he was with me on the Wolverene one of the
tars presented him with a blue jumper, of which he was
very proud, and wore for months ; he now had it on. Our
appearance, however, proved to be a more forcible attrac
tion. A mat was spread, and we were invited to be seated.
The crowd increased very much. After a little, three
finely-dressed swells appeared, one of whom immediately
claimed friendship with Mrs. Lawes. Vaaburi was inter
preter. He said :
' Misi Haine, that is your friend ; you met him and
were kind to him long, long ago. Tamate, these are your
friends. When you called here before, their fathers gave
you cocoanuts and bananas and became your friends ;
they are dead, and now these are glad to see you.'
During our absence the ladder to our dubu had been
strengthened and the rungs put much closer. We spent
the hours until 10 P.M. singing, and then spread our mats
on the platform, fearing to go inside because of the mice
with which the dubu was infested. A little after 10 our
native friends arrived to see how we were getting on, and
insisted on Mrs. Lawes accompanying them to their home.
They remained long, and would have remained all night
but for a few presents, and being asked to leave us to sleep
and return in the morning.
In the morning, at daylight, our friends returned, and
with them a number of men, women, and children, carrying
cooked and uncooked food. We had morning prayers,
during which all remained very quiet. When we had
finished breakfast we sang ' Auld lang syne,' and joined
hands. The shouting and roaring were something terrible,
and again and again we had to sing it, they joining hands

A TRIP TO OIABU AND MEKEO 71
with great delight. Encore and again encore, and sing we
must. Every new arrival must hear the song and join
hands. They brought us food and pigs ; the latter we left for
another occasion, the former filled our boat. They carried
all our things down, and then walked the boat into the sea.
What a farewell ! Men, women, and children handshaking
and shouting :
' Now do return soon ; go, but let not many moons pass
until we see you again.'
' Good-bye, Oiabu friends ! we hope soon to return ; ' and
away we went through the surf and returned to Maiva.
During my various visits to Maiva, the chief Meauri
and his friends have always been anxious that I should
visit a district friendly with them called Mekeo. They
spoke of it as inhabited by a kindly people, who grew large
quantities of various kinds of food, and had betel nuts in
such abundance that they knew not what to do with them.
During our present visit Meauri reminded me of a promise
made some time ago that I certainly had forgotten, and
begged me to go in and fulfil it.
We arranged to start on Monday morning, Meauri to
accompany us ; but when the morning came his lordship
found some plausible excuse to remain behind, and we
started, led by Meauri's two uncles, several cousins follow
ing. We found swamps at the back of the inland Maiva
villages, between the latter and the low range of hills,
about half a mile in breadth. We came to the first village,
about nine miles from Maiva, close to a large, deep swamp.
The houses were few, and built on very high posts. The
natives were much afraid at first. It was soon evident that
our guides had only to order what they desired, and it
was at once fetched. After being refreshed with cocoanut
we again started, and having walked about four miles we
came to another small village, where we met Anapanau,

72 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
chief of Aepena, who was living here because he had
recently lost one of his wives. He is a fine old fellow,
light-coloured, tall, and well-proportioned, with enormous
teeth, one formed like a horse's hoof. In the house in
which we were resting were two large peculiar-looking
things, made from the fibrous network, of a light-brown
colour, got from the top of the cocoanut and sago-palm.
The various pieces were carefully sewn together with the
fibre from the bark of a tree. They were about seven feet
long and three broad, and looked like cases in which dead
bodies might be kept. Finding no peculiar effluvia, I
made bold to ask, and was informed they were used as
mosquito nettings ; the sleepers crawled inside from the
top, and then fastened down the door, preferring rather to
be stewed than eaten.
The chief told us he was sorry he could not go on to
the large village, but his brother would certainly receive us
kindly. From the first village to this we had no swamps,
only muddy patches here and there ; the country was
tolerably open, with long grass and clumps of trees. So it
was from Aepena to Inauepae, three miles. We were right
in the village before we were observed. We were warmly
received by Anapanau's brother, Maino Parau. The after
noon being well advanced, cooking was soon begun, and a
cup of refreshing tea made us feel less tired. The village
is a large one, with an extensive cocoanut grove running
right round. There are two rows of houses, with a nice
clean street in the centre, and a miserable reception-house
at each end. Some of the houses are well built, but not
much can be said of others. The natives bury their dead
in the front of their dwellings, and cover the grave with a
small house, in which the near relatives sleep for several
months. Smoking long, we at last made a show of retiring, when
fires were lighted all round and underneath. Down

A TRIP TO OIABU AND MEKEO 7.3
blankets, up mosquito nettings, and turn in. I really can
not say which was worse, to be eaten by mosquitos or
smoke-dried while living. Without the smoking, our faces
would be like those of the boys who went to steal the
honey in the night. By tucking our nets carefully under
our blankets we were soon able to give orders to remove
the underneath fires. The flooring of our house was only
round pieces of different kinds of wood. We slept well,
and were up betimes, walking about. Again our last
night's visitors returned, and we determined to follow
them. Our guides and new-made friends objected, but it
was no use, we told them we must go on.
The natives are a very fine-looking people, light-
coloured, tall, and well-built, and resemble those of Hood
Bay more than any others I know. Having got our swags
ready in the early morning, we were soon on the road for
our homeward journey. Our carriers were heavily laden
with betel nuts, and one with a dead dog and taro. Shortly
after our arrival our hosts killed two dogs to entertain us,
which our followers soon dismissed ; the third was killed
and sent to Meauri. In killing the dogs they struck them
on the head with a large stick, and then broke all their
legs. We arrived at Maiva about 2 P.M., wet and tired.

74 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

CHAPTER V
A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES
In this chapter we shall, by means of brief extracts from
the journal of a voyage undertaken in 1883, endeavour to
convey to the reader some idea of the most interesting
incidents in one of the annual trading trips to the West.
This is the only known instance of a white man going on
such a trip. The extracts are given at length, and it may
not be amiss to point out that this was the only voyage
that had at that date been made along the Papuan Gulf by
a white man with natives in their lakatois.
October 5, 1883. — Long before daylight, sounds of
weeping and wailing came from the village, and we knew
that at last the sago traders to the West were really going
to start. Long have I had a desire to take a trip in one of
the lakatois, so yesterday I took my passage on board of
the Kevaubada, commanded by Vaaburi and Aruako, and
was, therefore, early astir this morning. A few tears and a
little wailing awaited my exit. Saying good-bye to friends,
I took the whale-boat and followed the canoes, which had
left some time before, and joined mine at Kohu, about two
miles from Port Moresby. Many friends were there to bid
farewell to the adventurous spirits who for at least four
months would be absent from their homes. Wood and
water were put on board, sails were squared, and then
began a terrible scene, weeping, howling, tearing hair,
scratching faces until the blood flowed, clasping dear ones

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76 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
in long embraces : wives their husbands, children their
parents, and young ladies their future husbands. It was
enough to melt a stony heart.
At Idlers' Bay we parted with the last of our friends,
and there tears were dried up and the ocean-singing began
in right earnest. The laughing and joking was, however,
strained, and not the hearty outburst of joyous hearts. We
were thirty-five all told. Our lakatoi consisted of four
large canoes lashed together, with good bulwarks made of
leaves strongly bound together with mangrove saplings.
We had two masts of mangrove, stepped on top of the
canoes with stays and backstays of rattan cane. Our sails
were made of mats and shaped like the large crab claw.
Fore and aft were good-sized houses, made of wood, and
packed full of pottery. Running right round was a plat
form 2\ feet wide. The canoes were full of the pottery
which for months past the women have been making, and
in the centre, between the masts, was a large crate also
full. On the top of the crate were two planks covered
with a mat, and on these I slept. Close by me was
Vaaburi, who seldom spoke, and who, until we passed
Idlers' Bay, kept himself covered with a blanket ; and
on the other side was Keroro, a lad of ten years, who
was acting for Aruako, and who was also considered
helaga ( = sacred). Hanging close by each was a small pot,
in which was good-wind and favourable-weather medicine,
consisting of burnt banana leaves. They told me although
it was a good breeze it was impossible for the lakatoi to
sail well to-day as there was too much feeling with the
friends left behind, but to-morrow I should see what could
be done. We went about four knots an hour. We had several
boys on board ; each had his station, and was kept pretty
constantly baling. About 1 1 P.M. we anchored eight miles
east of Hall Sound. All were tired, and throats were very

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 77
sore from singing so much, so there was no need to drone
to sleep. October 6. — Not early awake, as when we rose the sun
had already appeared in his gigantic striding over the high
mountains of the Stanley Range. We have on board
several church members, and before turning-to we had
morning service, and then breakfast, when we poled in

WOMEN MAKING POTTERY

towards the shore reef, where all the young men landed to
get wood, cane, and a large stone to be used as an anchor.
They did all heartily, and seem to have got over the
parting of yesterday. We have four cooking-places — two
on the platform, and two inside, close by my quarters.
The latter belong to the two chief men, and they being
sacred can only have their food cooked there, and each has

78 UFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
a man to cook for him. The food must not be touched
with the hands, and when they are eating they never speak.
The former belong to the crew, and only there may they
have their food cooked. The food in its uncooked state is
first presented at each mast, when something like a prayer
is offered to the spirits of their ancestors. On this voyage,
a church member engaged in prayer to the only living and
true God.
All ready ; but we have to wait for wind, so the time
is spent in going over their wealth. What a collection !
Arm-shells, large and small ; tomahawks, old and new ;
beads, foreign and native ; cloth of all colours, nose-jewels,
frontlets and breastplates. All exhibit, and in rotation.
I am anxious to press on, as I fear wind will fail in a
day or two ; but other canoes suggest our spending Sunday
here. I am decidedly opposed, and propose spending
Sunday at sea. Some of our crew are busy lashing the
anchor — i.e. a large stone about three hundredweight — and
they say they will soon be ready.
Noon. — I insist on leaving, so up sails, in hawsers
(canes), and we clear away, soon followed by others, who
are growling all the time they are getting ready. Every
body seems master, and I fancy all do as they like.
Orders are given with great hesitancy, and in such a
manner as if doubtful whether they will be attended to.
Some wish to return and wait, and I fancy would be glad of an
excuse to go back. To them this journey of 200 miles
is something awful. The excuse is that the wind is not
strong enough. I am asked to give orders for a short time,
but decline, as I am anxious to see how they will act. All I
insist on is that they keep on, and on no account dilly-dally
so as to lose the wind. They have become very scrupulous
about Sunday, and are anxious to put into Delena ; but I
explain to them the day can be more quietly and profit
ably spent at sea.

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 79
We were quite away, and I was standing on my deck
bunk— dinner being spread for the crew— when Aruako,
an old robber-chief, who was the cause of much suffering
in past years, said, 'Tamate, would you sit down for a
little until I ask God's blessing on this food, that my boys
may eat ? ' He lacks knowledge, but from all I have seen
of him he means well.
When in front of Hall Sound entrance, the lakatoi was
brought right up in the wind, and the robber-chief took his
little nephew by the hand and handing him two wisps of
cassowary feathers, stood in front shaking them with a
peculiar motion of the body, and turning to the foremast
did the same ; then came aft, and turning to the mainmast
went through the same performance. When breaking her
off again all shouted, as if driving something away.
Long ago, it seems, the Motuans, to keep an open
coast, killed many Loloans, who had interfered with one
of their canoes, and since then the Lolo spirits have been
troublesome in that one place, detaining the lakatois ;
hence the above incantation to drive them away. We
were successful, and got beyond the passage all right, the
tide being on the slack at the time.
Immediately after, several bunches of bananas were
brought to each mast, which formerly would have been
presented as a thank- and peace-offering to the spirits of
ancestors, and I doubt not were so in many minds
now, only the church members sought blessing on food
from Him whom they profess to love and serve. How
busy all are, scraping bananas, cleaning pots, and getting
water !
Nothing is thrown overboard : the banana skin is care
fully kept, to be thrown into the river we enter. To throw
anything overboard now would be a terrible crime, and cause
the spirits to oppose us in every way. Unfortunately, I
cannot remember, and so often offend with banana skin

80 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and cocoanut shell. At sunset we were off Maiva; the
other lakatois put into Delena.
SUNDAY, October 7. — During the night there was very
little wind, and at daybreak we were only off Oiabu, round
Cape Possession. All night long the singing and drumming
were continued, so now that it is morning all are quiet and
many asleep. In the singing Vaaburi coaches them. We
are nearing lokea, and hope to have communication. The
wind has entirely failed, and after pulling for two hours we
found we were going back with the strong current ; so
out anchor, with about thirty fathoms of cane rope. The
cane is made fast to the mast. After anchoring, all are
assembled ; and we have a very pleasant service, conducted
chiefly by the Motuans. It was short, but I think to the
point. Many of the Motuans have a tendency to exceed
ingly long prayers, but to-day, having been told before
hand, they were short and precise, not wandering over
many fields. The Iokeans seem to be away from home,
possibly hunting.
Afternoon. — We have been anxiously waiting for wind,
but, alas ! that commodity seems scarce indeed, so we
are still at anchor, and have another short interesting
service. I fear there is no chance of a start to-day, and
some are now talking of a hunt to-morrow. I did hope to
see some old friends from the shore with cocoanuts and some
cooked food.
In the evening we heaved anchor, and dropped down
with the tide nearer the village, to be ready to get wood
and water in the morning.
October 8. — Very early in the morning we saw the
other canoes far out, and bearing away for Maclatchie
Point. The Porebada and Tatana canoes have just
anchored close by us. A small canoe came off from the
shore, and in it three old friends with cocoanuts. I landed
at lokea, and met my old friend Rahe Makeu, of Motumotu,

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82 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
who is here planting. He is very pleased to meet me, and
wishes I would go now to Motumotu. This is the begin
ning of Elema, and the beginning of nose-rubbing. Sharp
noses would soon be flattened in this district, and it would
be as well to carry a small pocket looking-glass, as the
face-colours are varied.
About twelve we bade farewell to our friends, up sail,
in anchor, and away. We have a fine breeze, but a strong
current against us. Near sundown we were off Motumotu,
and saw the Tatana and Porebada lakatois enter the river.
Our sail gave way, so it had to be lowered for repairs,
which were soon executed. All the food to be cooked
for the crew is first placed close by the masts. To-night
several bunches were so placed and presented to the spirits,
that we might get along quicker. The current is very
strong against us, and the wind is light. Instead oi
following the old customs, they consent to one of the church
members engaging in prayer. The singing and drum-
beating continues, and hopes are great that we shall
anchor to-morrow at Vailala or Perau, on the Annie River.
October 9. — We have had the strong current all night,
and a light easterly wind. This morning the wind is so
light that the long paddles are out and several are pulling
hard. Last night, about 9, we were close alongside a
large schooner beating to the eastward. I had turned in,
thinking the light we saw was one of the other lakatois, so
we kept away from her, but not long after there was a
terrific shout, Nao, nao (foreigner), so I sprang up, and
found we were close under the schooner. I hailed her, but
all we could make out was that she was from Thursday
Island. Soon after, I went to sleep, but not for long, as I was
aroused by those on duty, who must have thought the bay
full of foreign vessels, as they reported more lights. This
time the lights were from the lakatois we had seen far out

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 83
in the morning, and who, finding the current too strong,
stood in. We were then close to the Cupola and near
to Uamai and Silo. We spoke the lakatois, and then
instructions were given for no more lights to be shown and
no more singing, as the natives from the shore might see
us, and come off in canoes and take us, simply for the sake
of the pottery.
It seems that about midnight one of the canoes put
about and bore down, wishing all to turn back to Karama
and Motumotu, because of the strong current. Our people
said, ' No ; pull away till morning. We have Tamate on
board, and must do our best to get to Vailala,' and stood
on, when the others followed. Had I not been on board,
the whole party would have gone back to the above
places. We are this morning in sight of Maclatchie Point. Pisi
is on our starboard beam ; right ahead are the Searle Hills,
and away at the back the Albert Range.
1 1 A.M. — No wind ; we are pulling, and only just
able to hold our own against the current. A large fighting
canoe is coming towards us, and our folks seem much
concerned ; they ask Johnnie, my boy from the East End, to
get his old fowling-piece charged, so as to be ready ; but he
takes no notice, and they are afraid to appeal to me. We
have been boarded by a noisy, impudent lot. Before they
approached, our boys hid all their valuables. As they
neared I saw they were making for the bow, so I ordered
them aft, and called out that they must not come onboard.
They seemed prepared to fight ; bows and arrows were all
handy on the platform, fighting armlets were on, and a few
had their clubs hanging on their backs. They said they
had come for us, and Tamate and the lakatoi must go with
them. I told them, ' No, Tamate must go to Vailala, and
I intended going to Namau.' They replied, ' You will not
go on ; we shall keep you ; ' and their canoe getting close,

84 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
two of them stepped on board, giving orders to make for
their place. One of them seized me, and rubbed noses,
and begged of me, as his friend, to land. ' No, I will go
on ; I shall not go in here. ' They were very excited, and
looked nasty ; but our people were beginning to look as
nasty, especially Aruako, the robber-chief. I was anxious
to avoid a collision, as this would make it unpleasant for
me afterwards. A piece of rope fell into the water, and
was picked up by them. Their canoe being close enough,
Aruako stepped into it and took it from them, when one of
them seized his club. Aruako looked black and fierce,
and asked if they wanted to fight, for if they did just say
so, and they would have plenty, for his first action would
be to break up their canoe, and then with arrows to shoot
them down. ' No, no, we do not wish to fight ; but, great
chief, your lakatoi must come to us. Our wives say we
are weak and worthless, hence we have no lakatoi, and they
have sent us off' We insisted on their leaving ; and,
anxious they should do so without a threat, I addressed my
new friend, and told him they must not press on us, as I
must go to Vailala. Again we rubbed noses ; he asked
me for an uro, and as I had none he begged for a piece of
cloth. I took off my shirt, which wanted washing, and
gave it to him, and so saved myself trouble with soap
and water. Again we rubbed noses, and spoke of sincere
friendship ; they got into the canoe and left us, saying, ' It
is good ; Tamate go.'
Another lakatoi, about two miles from us, was then
made for, joined by two more canoes from Pisi : and whilst
I write the three are alongside. I do hope there will be no
trouble. We cannot help them, so they must make the .
best of it. The plan they adopt is to board the lakatois, and
if strong enough take everything of value, and so compel
their victims to go with them. They will pay well for
everything taken. If the Motuans resist, of course a fight

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 85
takes place. They will be ashamed to return if they do
not succeed, and will probably visit Kerema, on the other
side of the harbour, where two lakatois have already gone
and quarrel with them, to show their wives they have done
their best. Their one cry is for pottery to cook their food,
and that they may have hot water (gravy) to drink.
A light breeze is coming up, and we are beginning to

A LAKATOI GOING WEST

move from their vicinity. The sun has been hot, very hot,
all the morning. We are moving on.
October 10. — Two canoes got in before us yesterday.
We got in about 7 P.M., making the passage after dark.
What excitement ! We hoped for a clear sunset, but the
sun disappeared behind a thick covering ere taking his
nightly bath. When nearing the passage, orders were
many, and great were the preparations made. We must

86 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
go in on the other tack. "Bout ship,' and all young fellows
were warned to keep to their stations, fore-and-aft men
stand with paddles, the hawsers (canes) are all got ready to
be thrown to the crowd standing on the point, who are
to pull us over the bank and up the stream. The deep
passage is avoided, as the wind is light and the river-current
strong. When I heard that the hawser was to be handed
ashore, I thought immediately of getting my books and a
few things I wished to keep dry together, and if possible
get them ashore, for I expected nothing but a general
smash-up in the great white surf. I looked steadily ahead ;
on she goes, up, down, all around terrific breakers. Ah !
there it is now ; one sea has boarded us ; we are right in
the breakers ; shore-lights are guiding us, everybody is
shouting ; one man is calling on his ancestors and talking
to the wild seas, and saying, ' Oh, my lakatoi, my lakatoi ;
oh, my lakatoi will be broken.' Well done, she is on the
bank. I now see all know what they are about. Hallo !
a terrific sea ; she swings, is soon righted ; a loud voice
calls, ' Boys, don't be afraid, keep to your stations ; ' she
is away, sails are drawing, excitement getting greater ;
shouting fore and aft, some calling, ' Pray, oh pray ! ' On
we go on the tops of seas ; nearer, still nearer ; the men
on the shore are close by ; what now ?
The hawser is left, we are aground ; one rush on to the
platform over the bulwarks, fore and aft, regardless of lakatoi
coming to grief; about 150 men have boarded us, shouting,
yelling, and rubbing noses. What is it ? In the dark one
might think a certain region had opened wide its portals
and the imprisoned got free. Oh no, they are all excited
friends ; joy overflowing at meeting us. All right now ;
majority step overboard into the surf, seize the hawser, and
soon walk us away into calm water, and up the river to
the village. We are all right ; no damage, not even a
wetting.

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 87
I have friends innumerable who claim me. Alas, alas !
I cannot say I like this nose-rubbing ; and having no look
ing-glass, I cannot tell the state of my face. When your
nose is flattened, or at a peculiar angle, and your face one
mass of pigment ! Cover it over, and say no more.
In getting near the village a canoe comes down to us,
and there is soon on board my old friend Avea. The
excitement is something terrible — shouting, bawling,
screaming, kept up until 10 P.M., when I land and make
myself comfortable on the roomy verandah or platform
of a large dubu. The people in the dubu receive many
instructions concerning me, and are warned to be quiet
and treat me well.
So ends my trip on board the Motu lakatoi, Kevaubada.
I enjoyed it much ; it was unique, and I shall not soon
forget the kindness of all on board. They managed their
cumbersome craft well, and would do so, I doubt not, in
much worse weather than we had. I was more comfortable
than I could have been on board the whale-boat, in which
I have often had to make long voyages. We had not been
in long when it blew hard from the east, and about 1 A.M.
it began to rain, and continued until daylight, a true torrid
zone downpour. When it began, Keni, a Motu celebrity
from one of the other lakatois, came to me, saying he was
going to keep me company and see that all went well with
me ; but the rain was too much for him, and he soon dis
appeared into the more sacred and warmer precincts of the
dubu. What a day ! These people need much to be taught,
constantly taught, that ' the merciful man is merciful to his
beast' On board of the canoes, goods were early disposed
of; toeas (arm-shells), large and small, tomahawks, native
beads, shirts, etc., were given away, each going to his own
particular friend. And now the slaughtering or murdering
is going on. Several dogs have departed this life. They

88 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
were caught by the hind legs and their brains dashed out
against the canoes. Horns have been blowing, and pigs,
some large, others of ordinary size, have been brought in
well bound, and, hanging on poles, have had their skulls
smashed with pieces of wood or stone clubs. It is so hor
rible that I dare not taste pork, but my expostulations are
only laughed at. They seem drunken with dogs and swine,
and care for nothing. Hanging all round the lakatois, and
in numerous pots ready for cooking, are large supplies of
the above. Inside of the bulwarks a terrible mess — betel
nuts, pepper, cocoanuts, old and young, and sago, cooked
and uncooked, with natives squatting everywhere. Now is
feasting time ; after some days canoe-cutting will begin,
and in return for the things now given the natives will help,
and when the new canoes leave give payment in sago over
and above that received all the time the lakatois are here.
The pottery is disposed of last.
My quarters are not at all bad. The dubu is large,
about fifty feet in height in front ; the platform I am on is
about ten feet from the ground, and one with the flooring
of the dubu. I am outside, preferring it for light and air ;
and hanging all round there are charms large and small,
nets used for river and surf fishing, and fish-traps made
like fools' caps of the spines of the sago frond, bows and
arrows, and a few clubs. Entering by a small aperture, we
are quite in, and when the eyes become accustomed to the
darkness many are the charms, masks, bows, and arrows to
be seen ; and running along on each side places like stalls,
inside of which are fireplaces, with pieces of rope hanging
over — on these the sleepers hang their feet. During the
day very few are about, but at night die building is well
filled with men, who come tumbling in at all hours. My
compartment is seven feet by three, with room for my
goods and chattels, and for Johnnie to sleep alongside.
I have slung my hammock between the posts on the plat-

A TRADING VOYAGE WITH THE NATIVES 89
form. Over my head in the thatch are numerous arrows
which have been shot there. The custom is, when the
warriors return from a successful fight, to fire off arrows
that will stick in the thatch.
Afternoon. — One of the lakatois has begun disposing
of cargo. All the pottery belonging to a man is arranged
on the beach, and into each two small pieces of wood are
put, and when finished the owner returns along the row,
takes one piece out, and the purchaser follows, taking the
other. Both parties tie the tokens carefully up, and put
them away in a safe place, then the purchaser's family and
friends come and carry away the pottery. When the time
arrives for the lakatoi to return, the purchaser and all his
friends set to work and get the sago required, one bundle
of sago for each piece of wood. When the sago is finished
he sends for the Motuan, who enters the sago-house with
his small parcel, counts the tokens, and then counts the
sago, and if all is right he then carries them on board ; if
one or more bundles is short, there is a lively disturbance.
In front of every dubu to-day are numbers of bows and
arrows, all ready for action in the event of a disturbance
over the trading.
October 11. — One night, the lakatois being close by the
large platform on which I live, I gave instructions that
when they saw my lamp burning brightly all should be
quiet, and we would have evening prayers. So about
7 P.M. quietness stole over the immense gulf-sailing crafts
and the usually noisy Vailala natives about me. I read
from St. Matthew's Gospel, and then gave an address.
The audience was large, and -seemed to be deeply interested.
A so-called friend has just been here to say he is very
angry because I have not given him a tomahawk. I tell
him I give nothing and want nothing until I return
from the West, and then I shall buy a pig for the expected
boat's crew from Port Moresby, but no sago.

90 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
For my western trip I must go to Orokolo, and to my
friend Apohe. There is a Maipua man here, Kunu, who
will accompany me. He says he will go with me to other
places. The people here are too busy, and will be so for a
long time. They say now they are afraid ; but the first
night they were not so, promising heartily to go with me.
A crowd of Orokolans have come in, and with them
the chiefs, Mama and Apohe. When I asked the latter to
accompany me to Namau, he at once willingly consented ;
but my angry friend of the morning said something, a'nd
all was changed. He found that he could not go — that
he had killed people belonging to each place. I stopped
negotiations at once, and went away as if terribly displeased.
We shall see how this ends.
There are chiefs in from several places, and all wish me
to visit their districts. I tell them I have come for one
object, and that I must accomplish, before I undertake
anything else. The crews of the lakatois close by insist on
my accepting a present of pottery. I am doubtful, but yield
and say, ' All right.' Now, what am I to do with the
pottery ; and then what am I to give the crews for the
articles ? Will they ever be satisfied ? Presents from
natives are not so easily accepted, and I fancy are never
paid for, as the givers ever remind you, although you
may have made presents in return a dozen times the value.
I have just had to assert myself, and show them I must
not be hampered. Having given Mama and Apohe of
Orokolo p.resents, our dubu chief in coming up was very
angry. He scowled, shouted, and talked much. Having
leather belts, I thought I would try him, and went to give
him one, pretending to think he was angry with some one
else ; but he gave me his back. All right, friend. With
savages I do not give up soon. I put the belt in his bag,
when he looked black as a dark thundercloud, and again
began shouting and talking loud, and on my approaching

92 LIFE AND WORK IN' NEW GUINEA
him would have none of me. Now, I must have liberty to
do as I like, give to whom I like, and go where I like. It
is now my turn to look black and to speak loud, so in Motu
I tell the crowd to stand out of the way, and then I call on
boys from the lakatoi to come at once and pick up my
things, and turning round roll up my mat and blanket to
tie up, when the old fellow came, saying, ' Oh, Tamate,
stay, stay. I was not angry with you, but with others.
Do stay ; do not leave me ; ' and insisted on rubbing noses.
The boys came, and I got them to explain that I came for
one object ; and if not attained, I return with all I have
got, and that I must be allowed to do as I like, to give
what I like, and to whomsoever I like. The old fellow
says, ' All right,' and I must not be vexed ; just so, and I
am not.
It is really pleasant to see so many old men and women
about. Some have seen many, many years indeed, and
have their children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren
about them. This cannot certainly be an unhealthy place,
and there is always a constant supply of good food. The
great blessing of the ancient city may be seen here, old
men and women, and the streets echoing again with the
noise of children. May it long, long continue !

93

CHAPTER VI
AMONG THE CANNIBALS
I HOPE to start on Saturday for Orokolo, spend Sunday
there, and on Monday morning away for Maipua. Delay
is dangerous with natives, and the work of to-day left until
to-morrow, to-morrow, the everlasting to-morrow, which
never comes, and wearies the soul out of all strength and
doing. I would get rid of to-morrow, if to-day were only
long enough.
October 12, 1883. — Rained, thundered, and blew all
night. My blanket is rather heavy this morning. The dubu
was well filled. The natives must have been packed sardine
fashion. This morning at prayers on the platform
Aruadaela prayed that their young men might be saved
from the devil's power, ' and, if fishing in the river by-and-
by, be preserved from these devils (crocodiles) floating
about.' Great is the demand for fish-hooks. They are
preferred to anything else, except tomahawks. I wished
to get a fine carved pipe, and offered a knife, but was
refused. My boy, Friday, got it for three fish-hooks.
We have just finished our first school, held on our
platform. When teaching our pupils ' A ' they were
convulsed with laughter, but after a time repeated well,
one old handsome gentleman remembering so as to repeat
several letters alone. A few years ago we prepared a sheet
of sentences, the Commandments, and Lord's Prayer in
their dialect, and now begin teaching it here. We sung A
B C to the tune of ' Auld lang syne ; ' all tried to join,

94 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and it was like a thunderstorm between two hills, or over
a city. Afternoon.— I have been trying to translate two hymns,
but I find the Motuans do not know a word of the true
Elema dialect. They have a trading dialect, understood
well by both parties, but neither can tell whence it came,
nor who first used it, and it is only used by the Motuans
and themselves. They say it is from ancient times, and
friend Keni suggests it was taught to Edae by the spirit,
in the ocean cave. With Avea's help I have finished two
hymns, which, when read over and sung, are pronounced
good by the people. Sitting in front of me is a man busily
engaged in carving a spoon, made from the shell of the
cocoanut, and his only tools are a small shell and a piece of
flint brought from the east.
October 13. — Hoped to have left to-day for Orokolo,
but now raining very steadily, and likely to continue.
The natives have Kaevakuku here also. We saw the
men wearing the masks first on the other side, and taking
a canoe, they crossed, paddling themselves. When coming
along the beach from their canoe some of the men and all
the lads in our dubu began shouting, sprung down from the
platform, and away to the bush. The shouting informed
the people in the village of the arrival, and the place was
soon cleared of all women and children.
The Kaevakuku are connected with a sacred festival,
and they hold the power of taboo over cocoanuts and food
required for the coming feast. All the men engaged in
Kaevakuku are sacred for at least three moons before the
feast, not seeing wife or children, and not living anywhere
near their own houses. They have large masks, two, three,
four feet in height, which they wear when going about.
Eight of these masks are now deposited in the Sydney
Museum. These masks are generally shaped like a fool's
cap, and the face represents some animal with a very long

96 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
mouth and teeth. The hat is made with small branches,
wickerwork covered with native cloth, painted white, red,
and black. They wear a cloak about 2\ feet long, and a
petticoat or kilt about eighteen inches long, both made
from the fibre of the large yellow hibiscus. They are not
nearly so imposing as the Maiva Kaevakukus, who look like
walking haystacks with large masks on the top.
Before coming up to our platform they danced and
rushed about, brandishing a stick held in the right hand.
When finished, they ascended and went right in, where they
undressed for a breathing spell. I tried one of the masks
on, but it was too small for my large pate.
So as to get away easily and quietly this morning,
Johnnie and I packed last night in the dark. Our friends
here are afraid I shall take away everything to Orokolo and
Maipua. This is one of the difficulties of travelling amongst
natives, the people you are with will do all they can to
prevent their neighbours or neighbouring tribe getting
anything. I have a borrowed iron box, a splendid article ;
it locks, and into that I have packed everything of value.
We have pnly one basket and my swag, everything else is
left here.
How interested they are in my writing ! Every day
when at it I have admiring crowds to witness, and when
new arrivals come on to the platform it is the one thing
most spoken about, and I am generally pressed to do a
little. Having cleared up, and ' the pride of the morning '
departed, we had breakfast and were away by 9 o'clock.
Passing through the village on the other side I met my
friend Meka, who insisted on my visiting his dubu and
drinking a cocoanut. It is a very fine building. On enter
ing it was very dark, but after a little I could see better.
There were eighty masks arranged down each side, forty
a side, and alongside of each mask a stick. There were
drums ; pretty small ladders, made of cane, and used to

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 97
ascend when beautifying the dubu ; spears, clubs, bows and
arrows, and many other things. Outside there is a splendid
platform at present, because of Kaevakuku surrounded with
cocoanut leaves, so that impure eyes may not peer into
the mysteries. Overhead, very high up, is the long peaked
roof, in which many arrows were sticking, and small pieces
of wood ornamented with feathers representing the spirits.
Anxious to get away, I bade my friend 'stay,' and
promised, if I had time on my return, to spend a night in
his dubu.
The tide being low, we travelled along the beach in a
broiling sun ; no wind ; and although by this time I ought
to be accustomed to it, yet I did indeed feel it hot.
We passed several fishing parties, men with nets about nine
feet square attached to two sticks, which they lifted up and
down in the water. The women had bag nets on a long
stick, and used them much in the same way. They had
also small bags hanging from their heads down their
backs, and into which all fish caught were put. The young
lads had hand-traps made of the ribs of the sago frond,
with which they ran about and placed over fish, putting
their hands in from the top to catch them.
It was thirsty travelling, and I longed for a cocoanut,
but was told to wait. So wait I did, until about half-way,
when I was told that friends from Orokolo were coming to
meet me. Soon I could see a white shirt with red trappings
in the bush, and I knew my good friend Apohe was await
ing me, and with him about fifty young men. The native
' champagne ' (cocoanut water) is all ready in dozens, and
soon the necks are flying, and serving-men are rushing
around handing it to all new-comers. When all are
finished, I say I should like another bottle; and orders
are at once given to ascend to the cellar, and in a few
minutes we have more in abundance, cooler far than the
former, and cooler and better than all the champagne ever
G

98 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
produced in the wine countries of Europe. We drank it
under the beautiful shade of a splendid hibiscus, with a
magnificent grove of wine-cellars behind. Feeling
refreshed, we rose up and started, accompanied by over a
hundred armed men, who have come out to do honour to
Apohe's friend.
Our Maipua friends from Vailala come on behind, and
say we had better go to the most westerly village of
Orokolo, as being nearer Maipua. All right, friends, so
we will ; and Apohe is quite willing. This dubu is falling
to pieces ; but Apohe says, ' Ah ! when you return you
will see a splendid dubu. I will soon begin a new one that
will surpass this.'
We left Kovara (Apohe's village) about 3 P.M.,
came inland for some distance over splendid land, and then
on to the beach. I have never anywhere seen children
swarm as here ; boys and girls in crowds accompanied us,
shouting, laughing, dancing, and running with all the
hilarity of happy youth. Side by side Apohe and I walked
in state, until we arrived at Mama's dubu, where his lord
ship was dressed to receive us. There was a very large
crowd on the platform. Mama was standing up in the
centre with a short lady's jacket on, and on his head for a
cap a small coloured bag I had given him two years ago.
On my ascending the platform, he came forward to meet
me, to shake hands, and rub noses.
His dubu is a new one, and inside is nice and clean. I
soon entered and selected my sleeping apartment, and then
went out to be seen, examined, and scrutinised by the
crowd of old and young. My heavy black travelling boots
were the wonder of all, and certainly the majority thought
I had peculiarly black feet. The unlacing of one caused
mouths to be opened wide ; but on taking it off, how shall
I describe that terrific shout ? 'twas as of a mighty host,
and beggars all description. I removed my sock, and then

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 99
another shout, and those not too much afraid pressed round the
platform to have a nearer look, and some to feel. I exposed
my breast, and that, too, excited great wonder. What
seemed to astonish them much was the softness of the
skin, especially of the sole of the foot, which was carefully
examined. I thought I was safe enough here, but it may
be as well not to do so at Maipua, as they might take a
fancy to cooked feet and breast.
Mama and the natives were anxious to hear a shot, and
Johnnie, having an old fowling-piece, of which he is very
proud, was asked to fire. He appealed to me, and I said
he might. He seemed to be taking a very long time about
it, so I inquired what was up. ' I have no powder, it is at
Vailala.' ' Ah, well ; it is good, leave it there.' Worse
far than forgetting powder, he has left all my beads behind,
although the night before I several times asked him if he
had got them. I am sorry for the beads, as they are much
sought after here, and will be more so next week.
About sundown I walked through the large scattered
village, with many good houses and many wretched hovels.
They seemed to throw all their strength into building
dubus. Everywhere near the houses I saw small plan
tations of tobacco strongly fenced. Men, women, and child
ren, pigs and dogs, all seemed terribly excited. On my
return it was getting dark, and my host having entered the
gloomy precincts of his dubu, there I went too. Sombre
it was indeed, and only here and there a small flicker of
light from dying fires, with natives asleep close by, breath
ing heavily.
SUNDAY, October 14.— Last night, in the dark, we had
evening, prayers. The deacon gave a short address ; I,
through him, another ; then he engaged in prayer. It was
a strange, weird meeting. There were about a dozen pre
sent, and we taught them to pray, ' O Lord Jesus, give us
light, save us,' Nothing more ; it was quite enough ; and

100 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
will He not answer them ? Long the deacon spoke to
them and told them of God's love.
This morning, long before I was ready to get up, the
crowd appeared, but, having been disturbed during the
night by some too lively bed-fellows, I rolled myself up in
my blanket and stole some sleep.
Last night, in the dark, one old fellow got up and
spoke : ' Tamate, we are glad you have come again, that
we all might see you, as we heard so much of you. We
thought you must be a spirit ; now we see you are a man
like ourselves- — only white.'
We have just had service : a hymn, a few verses of St.
Matthew, and prayer by the deacon in the Elema dialect.
The deacon also gave an address on God's love to man,
and His desire that all might be saved. Some are very
attentive, others chew betel nut or smoke ; we are all
squatting tailor-fashion. They soon tire, so we finish.
I forgot to mention that when these people want a good
light at night, they take a dried young cocoanut shell and
put on the fire, when they have a splendid blaze for a few
minutes. They .preserve the shells and string them to
gether ; there are several strings of them hanging over the
fire-places. Aruadaera (the deacon) and Aruako have been away
for a long time, and have just returned. They have, on
the platform of the neighbouring dubu, been telling the
story of Divine love as expressed in the gift of Christ.
Again and again had they to go over the good old story.
The people, they say, were much astonished, and very
attentive. I hear Mama has sent on to Maipua to inform the
natives there of our arrival here, and that to-morrow they
are to come with their canoes to this side of the river
Alele, and meet us. It is perhaps better they should know
beforehand.

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 101
Several are busy husking betel nuts, and stringing the
kernels to dry over the fire. When dried they will keep
for any length of time, but before being chewed they are
steeped in water and well washed. One man is busy
carving with a small piece of shell ; another is smoothing
a drum with a rough leaf ; and some are diligently examin
ing the construction of my boots. A man from inland,
called a Koitapuan, has just arrived, and is begging me to
go with him. I find the Koitapuans here hold power over
vatavata (spirits) and rain, not over sun, wind, and sea.
5 P.M. — One of the messengers sent to Maipua has
returned. He says all rejoiced at the news he brought,
and to-morrow the chief and a large party are to come and
meet me. When the people there heard that I had arrived
at Orokolo they said, ' You only deceive us ; ' so a piece of
foreign tobacco was produced, with the question, ' Is that
ours, or like it ? ' then they sat down and had a smoke, and
all believed. Two messengers went, but the people insisted
on one staying, so as to insure the return of the other with
the party in the morning.
October 15. — Not starting early enough, we had to wait
for the ebb tide, and it was 10 o'clock when we got off.
We had a very large escort to near the river Alele, where
we were to meet the Maipuans. We reached the river
about noon, having crossed one salt-water creek. Our
escort returned, they being at war at present with Maipua.
A wretchedly small canoe, a dug-out tree without an out
rigger, came over with one man. I did not care to risk
myself in it. as the river is full of crocodiles ; and we asked
if there was not a bigger canoe, and on the reply being
given in the affirmative, sent Aruako and one of our Vai
lala boys over, making three with the man who brought
the canoe across. On their reaching the other side we had
not long to wait until we saw a much larger canoe, without
an outrigger, approaching. On getting to the beach close

102 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
to where we were standing, a man sprung out and ran up
to me with open arms, giving me a hearty squeeze. This
was Ipaivaitani, the leading chief of Maipua. We were
soon all on board, with swag, &c. : including crew, we were
eleven altogether. The current was running strongly, and
I felt rather dubious as to our getting across at all, but it
was an unwarrantable doubt, as we got over without ship
ping a drop of water. On the other side we took more on
board until we numbered twenty-three, and away we pulled
through various creeks lined with the Nipa fruticans,
palms, and mangroves, until we came to a splendid river,
the largest I have yet seen east of Bald Head ; it is the
largest without doubt, for I know them all. I call the main
stream inland the ' Wickham,' after a dear friend. The
current was swift, it being ebb tide at the time of our
crossing, but our bark was handled so well that we got over
all right. This is the Aivei on the chart.
We then came easily along from one creek to another,
through stinking swamps, until we reached Maipua about
5 P.M. It is indeed a large village, with splendid houses
and fine large temples. I estimate the population at from
fifteen to eighteen hundred people. In front of nearly all
the houses hang large representations of Semese. The
houses are shaped like the temples, large in front and
tapering small to back. But what a horrible hole ! a real
swamp, with miles of swamp all round. The streets are
all laid with long large trees, and in front of many of the
houses, as in front of the temples, long platforms of wood
rise gradually from the streets. The village is intersected
with small creeks, and these are crossed by very good
bridges. The temple where I am sitting is the largest, and it is
the finest thing of the kind I have yet seen. There are
two large posts in front, eighty feet high, on which rests
the large peaked shade, around which there hangs a grace-

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 103
ful fringe of young sago leaf. The front is about thirty
feet wide, and the whole length of the house is about
160 feet, tapering gradually down to the back, where it is
small. Our compartment is about twenty feet high and
ten broad. The front is a common platform floored with
the outer skin of the sago palm, and kept beautifully clean.
The whole is divided into courts, with divisions of cocoanut
leaves, nine feet high, on which hang various figures, not
at all good-looking. From the top to the cocoanut leaves
hang graceful curtains of the young frond of the sago palm.
Standing on the platform in front and looking down the
whole length along the passage or hall, with the various
divisions and their curtains, it has a wonderful effect. In
each of the courts are numerous skulls of men, women, and
children, crocodiles and wild boars, also many breasts of
the cassowary. All are carved and many painted. The
human skulls are of those who have been killed and eaten.
The daintiest dish here is man, and it is considered that
only fools refuse and despise it.
In the last court there are the same kinds of ornaments,
and then a screen with curiously formed things of wood
and native cloth hanging on it; also sihis (their only cloth
ing), belts, small bags, and other things belonging to those
murdered, which have been presented to the gods. Inside
of that court is the most sacred place of all. Few ever
enter there.
On my arrival, I had to stand up in the canoe, that I
might be seen by all the people. On ascending the wooden
steps from the canoe to the platform, I was conducted by
the chief to the temple, where, sitting down each side of
the passage, were many men ready to receive me. They
never spoke a word while I went down the centre and back
to the platform, followed by the chief; then they all rose,
and, after giving a great shout, gathered round me. The
passage I walked along had the appearance of glazed cloth,

104 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
with various figures carved on it ; it was carpeted with the
outer skin of the sago palm, glazed by the blood of the
victims so frequently dragged over it and by the constant
walking on it. After being examined and pronounced a
human being, I returned with the chief through the various
courts to the sacred place. I was allowed to enter, but the
chief was too frightened, and he remained outside, and
would only speak in a whisper to those near. I entered
into that eerie place, where small bats in abundance flew
about, and saw six curious-looking figures, made of cane.
The mouth was like a frog's, enormously large and wide
open ; the body, seven feet high in the centre, and about
nine feet long, had the appearance of a large dugong. Out
of these mouths flew, in constant succession, the small
bats. The whole temple looks splendid, and although my
new friends are cannibals, yet it goes to show that they are
something beyond the mere wild savage ; might I call
them ' cannibal semi-civilised savages ? ' In the various
courts are fire-places, alongside of which the men sleep.
The chief, Ipaivaitani, has given me his quarters, but I do
not think I shall sleep in them.
I have just had dinner and breakfast all in one. I
could have enjoyed it better if there had not been so many
skulls in a heap close by, some of which were tolerably
new. These skulls are at present down for cleaning and
repairs, but when all is in order they are hung on pegs all
round ; no scientific collection could be better kept. I
fancy each man who has killed or helped to kill a foe has
his own peculiar painting and carving on the skull.
Everywhere along the large creek that joins the two
large streams running close in front of the village, and by
the sides of all the small streams, are to be seen beautifully
cut out canoes. Many are very fancifully carved, but none
of them have outriggers. On these the Maipuans do all

AMONG THE CANNIBALS It>s
their fighting, and for days travel up the river until near
the Sir Arthur Gordon range of mountains, where they
hunt the wallaby and wild boar.
Many women are making sago ; and alongside the
bank are rafts of sago palm brought down by the men
from inland. They are hauled up on the bank as required,
prepared by the men for digging, and then left for the
women. The pith is dug out and carried to a raised
trough, by which a woman stands with a long stick ; she
beats it well, then pours water on it and squeezes it, allow
ing it to run down the stem of the sago frond into a small
bag, made of fibre. It passes through this and along the
channel, when it is again met by another sieve made from
the covering of the frorfd of the sago palm. Passing through
this, it falls into a receptacle like a large basin, where it is
allowed to settle. Lastly, the water is poured off, and the
sago is taken out and packed away.
As in the temples in the Elema district, numerous
arrows are shot off into the walls of the temple on returning
from a successful man-hunt They have some horribly
filthy practices. One is — I can only describe it in part —
that when a man is shot down a rush is made, and the first
to bite his nose clean off and swallow it is looked upon as
greater than the person who shot him ; great is the glory
attached to the act. On returning from the fight, and when
near the bank of the creek, the women come out and ask,
' Who are the killers ? ' ' Who are the nose-eaters ? ' and
when the latter question is replied to, great is the singing,
dancing, and rejoicing.
On asking them why they eat human flesh, they told
me that the women first urged the men to kill human
beings for eating purposes. The legend is that the
husbands once returning from a successful hunt far inland,
they began horn-blowing, singing, and dancing far up the
river. As they approached the village the women went

106 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
out to meet them on the bank. They had in the canoes
wallabies, boars, and cassowaries. The women called out
to them, ' What success, husbands, that you are singing and
dancing ? ' ' Great success ; plenty to eat.' ' Where ? '
' Here, come and see.' They drew closer to the river side,
and when they saw what was in the canoes they said, 'That
dirty stuff, who is going to eat it ? Is that your successful
hunt ? ' The men began reasoning among themselves,
saying, ' What do our wives mean ? ' One, a little more
enlightened, said, after a little time, ' I know, it is man ; '
and throwing the wallabies and other animals ashore, away
they started to a neighbouring village, and brought back
ten bodies ; returning without the horn-blowing, singing,
or dancing. On drawing near the bank the women saw
what they had : they shouted, ' Yes, yes, that is it ; dance
and sing now ; you have something worth dancing and
singing for ; that is what we want' The bodies were
singed, cooked, and eaten, and pronounced good ; and they
have ever since been eaten, and pronounced vastly superior
to any other flesh.
This man-killing led to the building of dubus, in order
that the men might be sacred and have a place to them
selves ; that they might have a sacred place for Kanibu,
where to present the slain ; and that they might have a
place for rejoicing when they returned from a successful
man-hunt These are the reasons given me for the exist
ence of dubus.
I slept outside on the platform, and had a splendid
night. Aruako fulfilled his promise, given at Orokolo,
and for long held forth on Adam and Eve, Noah and the
Flood ; and both he and Aruadaera spoke about Jesus our
Lord and His love. It was a strangely weird scene
A large dark temple, lit only by flickering fire-lights ; a
crowd of savages, real cannibals, who pronounce man to be
the best of all flesh, and whose wives also relish it ; skulls

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 107
in abundance in the various courts, and at the end, in the
most sacred place, six Kanibus, who hold life and death,
fighting and peace_, within themselves ; and in the centre
of the crowd, Aruako and Aruadaera preaching Christ as
the revealer of God's love and the Saviour of sinful men.
It was the most attentive congregation of the kind I have
ever met. They listened well, asked questions, and ex
patiated freely. Soon after sunset it commenced, and
when I sought sleep it was still going on. Although not
a prepossessing people, yet they seem kind, and would I
believe listen to the Gospel and receive it as good news
from God to man.
When I awoke, the sun, I found, had preceded me, and
they were then, perhaps still, talking and listening. I
went into the dubu, and looking my friend Aruako, who
was now quite hoarse, in the face, I said, ' Arua, have you
been at it all night ? ' He replied, ' Yes, and when I lay
down, they kept asking questions, and I had to get up, go
on and explain. But enough, I am now at Jesus Christ,
and must tell them all about Him.'
Yes, my friend had reached Him to whom we all must
come for light and help and peace. When Arua had
finished there was but one response from all their lips :
' No more fighting, Tamate ; no more man-eating ; we
have heard good news, and we shall strive for peace.'
Anxious to start for other villages, I appealed to my
chief friends ; but they refused point-blank to take me on,
as they want to go first and tell them they have seen me,
and that I have stayed with them ; but they say that when
I return on a second visit they will take me everywhere.
Natives always desire the honour of being the first to
report any great event, and this one, the first visit of a
white man, was of such importance that they wished to
be the first to report it.
I encourage all who are with me to tell what they

108 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
know of us and the Gospel, so Kunu, a Maipuan who has
been living at Vailala, and has accompanied us, held forth
on what he has heard and seen. At prayers this morning
we had a crowd, orderly in every respect, and when the
deacon stood up to pray at Kunu's call, every head was
bent low, and not a sound was heard from anyone.
To the Kanibus the inhabitants of Maipua give offer
ings ; pearl-shells, arm-shells, pigs, human beings, and
skulls. The sick apply to them for healing, their friends
presenting gifts. When wishing to fight, they appeal for
direction and help to these wicker images ; and they
assured me they got the former audibly from the mouths,
and the latter in success. For days before fighting all the
men are sacred, and no woman must be seen or approached ;
and when one of their number is wounded, he is accused of
breaking through the sacredness. All the bodies of the
slain are dragged by the heels into the dubu and up to the
sacred place, where they are given to Kanibu.
Ipaivaitani, the chief, wished to give me a pig, but I said,
' No, friend, leave that for the present, and some other day,
when you can take me to the other villages, I will have
your pig.' I have but few things with me, and certainly
not sufficient to give as an exchange-present for a good-
sized pig.
A small vessel, that went without sails and had a big
wheel aft, once entered the Alele. The Maipuans, who
happened to be there fishing, were anxious to see this
wonder, but on drawing near were warned away. Wood
was wanted, and the natives were employed to cut it, but
dare not go near the vessel. The vessel's boat took all on
board, having first frightened the natives away by firing
over them. The natives returned and found a few toma
hawks, some beads, and red cloth. They again went off to
the vessel, and this time the foreigners took their things,
such as bows and arrows and long daggers, but, instead of

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 109
paying for them, ordered the natives away, and even fired
to frighten them.
Much useless fear and slaughtering of natives by white
men could be avoided, if the latter would only keep calm
and do all possible to avoid exciting the natives. They
should only allow one trading party on board at a time,
and remember that the natives come to the vessel to trade.
Many white men fancy when they see a canoe with several
bows and arrows that it means a fight, and the natives are
treacherous, but it is not so. I warned these natives that
when they went alongside a vessel not to go armed, nor
talk loudly, but to go quietly and watch the white man's
signs. They were not to be afraid, as no white man would
willingly hurt them (was I right in that ?), and not to be
over-anxious to get on board, lest they might be taken to
other lands.
I have just returned from visiting the village and dubus.
A good part of the visiting was done in a canoe. One
dubu is 200 feet long, and has in its sacred place twelve
Kanibus. The carpet of sago bark down the centre passage
is really beautiful ; it has figures of men, crocodiles, etc.,
carved along all its length. The men, as yesterday, sat in
rows down each side to receive me, not speaking a word.
The two Motuans with me are terribly afraid of going
near the sacred place ; they have heard some awful stories
of the mighty doings there. In each dubu we preached
Christ, God the Father's expression of love, and begged of
them to give up fighting and man-eating, which they faith
fully promised to do.
Near all their dwelling-houses they have small flower-
gardens. A platform is made about ten feet high,
surrounded with a fence, and inside earth, brought from
far inland and the coast, is placed to the thickness of
about two feet. Various kinds of plants are grown, but
in the majority tobacco prevails. I think these gardens

no LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
furnish further evidence that there is a kind of civilisation
amongst these people ; and this taste for the beautiful can
surely be worked upon with much good result.
I grow weary of walking on the trees of their streets
and bridges, and some of the latter are very shaky indeed.
The tide is just now high, and it is simply water every
where, not an inch of dry land to be seen. The houses
inside are commodious, and each wife has her own com
partment, with its fire-place and all necessary utensils for
cooking. I was much pleased with the cleanly appearance
of their houses.
They bury their dead close to the sea-shore. They
keep the body a short time to weep over, then canoe it
down the streams to the burial-place, where a small house
is built, and friends remain there to mourn.
I asked them why they did not live on the coast, where
there was good dry land, instead of in this swamp. They
replied, ' Our ancestors lived here, and we cannot leave
their place.'
The principal villages of Namau are Maipua, Kai-
purave, Ukerave, Koropanairu, Kailiu, and Vaimuru ;
there are also several small ones built on the banks of the
various creeks. Vaimuru I think must be on the Aird
River. The Vaimuruans first came from Urama, which is
far away (possibly the Fly River), to the setting sun, where
the spirits of the dead now go. Their pearl-shell comes in
large quantities from Urama, and long, long ago tobacco
came to them from there.
When the young people of these nations marry, no
price is paid, only exchange feasts of sago are given.
Widows must be bought, and cost much, the payment
going to friends of the dead husband. Young women are
more sacred than married women ; the latter are often
bought. The dress of the men is exceedingly simple, the ma-

ii2 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
jority wear nothing at all, and the few only a small string
or vine. The women certainly do not wear much, and I
am not astonished at it. They are very modest, and think
themselves respectably and well clothed. Why savages
should be always spoken of as immoral I fail to see. They
are not so when compared with the more highly civilised
countries of the world. I am sorry to have to say that it
is contact with the civilised white that demoralises them,
and they then become loose and immoral.
I am at last in the canoe on the return journey. When
about to leave, a very old man came with a broken piece
of an uro, saying, ' Will you not pity us, and get Motu to
visit us? I have only this to cook food in, and others
have nothing at all.' The last cannibal feast they had lost
much of its relish from their not having large supplies of
gravy! We have made a splendid start, in a larger canoe than
yesterday, and have an escort of nine other canoes. Leav
ing the village, the tide being now on the ebb, we float
gently down stream, questioning and being questioned.
Our Vailala friends are glad indeed we are off, as they
were terribly afraid of being killed, cooked, and eaten !
Arua tells me it was near daylight when he sought a little
sleep. They spent the whole night in going over and over
the grand old story of God's love.
My friend Ipaivaitani has nine wives living, some are
dead. He has often eaten human flesh, and pronounces it
good ; but he says, ' Enough, you have come, we shall
give it up.'
The sun is frightfully hot, but fortunately we have
frequent shade. I have to sing constantly for them ; and
just now, two large canoes of women have gone by another
creek, and, nolens volens, I must sing, ' that when Tamate's
face is lost they may hear his voice, and weep that he
so soon leaves Maipua.' How delighted they are with

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 113
my sewing gear! My pocket knife they will not soon
forget. Now for the last time, ' Would you mind undoing your
shirt and showing us your chest, that we may have one
look and feel before you leave?' Mute astonishment ; the
other canoes close round, and I allow all to put their hand
on me, which gives great satisfaction ; and then it is,
' Tamate, come back soon, very soon ; do not disappoint
us, and we will bring you everywhere on the rivers.'
Orokolo, evening. — We spent an hour on the west
bank of the Alele with our cannibal friends. They gave
us cooked sago and cocoanuts. Our friends seemed, and
no doubt were, very sorry to part with us. They are to
be at Vailala soon, to meet the Motuans, and secure if
possible a few uros. Before entering the canoe the chief
knotted two strings with nine knots ; one string he kept,
the other he gave me, so that I might know that he will
be in Vailala after nine sleeps (nights), if the weather should
be fine. As a people they are kind, and if well treated can be
easily handled. They are small in stature, some of the
women being remarkably so. Taking them all in all, they
are very like the Koiari tribe at the back of Port Moresby.
They wear wisps of cassowary feathers behind, many have
beards and moustache, and many of the old men are very
like some of our Koiari friends.
Maipua and Orokolo have been fighting for some time,
and only very lately the former had a feast of Orokoloans.
They told me to tell the Orokoloans they were for peace,
and hoped there would be no more fighting. We arrived
at Orokolo about 3 P.M.
October 17. — About 4 AM. we were ready for our
start, and walking along the beach in the cool, accompanied
by Apohe and others, we arrived at Perau about 8.
Johnnie and I crossed the river in a very rickety old canoe
H

114 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
in which I got soaked for the first time during the trip.
The soaking came all right, but I was in terror of the
' devils ' (crocodiles), and felt really happy when the canoe
touched shore.
We found all well, and all right glad to see us back.
Our things were just as we left them. The old chief put a
taboo on our division of the dubu, and so prevented the
intrusion of stragglers and thieves. My experience amongst
savages is that, when trusted with entire charge, they do
their best to see that all is right, and no one is allowed to
meddle. How pleased the old man was when I told him I was
glad to get back, and that I was also glad to find everything
as we had left it ! ' What, did you think anyone would
touch anything belonging to you in my charge whilst you
were away ? '
' No, friend, I knew you would care for my things.1
All able-bodied Motuans, with many Elemai'tes, are up
the river cutting down trees to make new large canoes.
To-morrow all able to go from the various villages ascend
to drag the trees into the river and float them down. The
Motuans have hard work before them now for the next few
months. October 18. — Last night, after getting to sleep, I was
aroused by a noisy crowd returning from tree-felling. They
squatted close beside me on the platform and talked
incessantly of the day's doings, until after midnight. When
they went to sleep I soon followed suit, up to 4 A.M.,
when I was aroused by the party returning to the river. I
am short of food, and dreamt last night of friends, of feasting,
and of plenty. The weather is very dirty ; strong S.E.
wind all night.
October 19. — Feeling that a house was necessary to hold
services and school in, this morning I set about building a
simple house, yet one suitable for the climate. It is thirty-

AMONG THE CANNIBALS n5
eight feet long and twenty broad. We have nearly finished,
and hope on Sunday to open it. The natives assist
willingly. God grant that light may enter the hearts of
these poor natives, and that in this new house some may
learn to know Christ as the Light, and their Saviour from
sin and superstition and all their consequences !
I have to go to a large feast at Kaevakuku. A large
crowd has assembled from the villages round, and many
from Orokolo. Everywhere there is food, cooked and un
cooked, in heaps and hanging on poles, chiefly sago pre
pared in every imaginable way. Betel nuts and pepper also
abound. On the platform of my friend Meka's dubu is a
large quantity of cut-up pork, and all around the platform
streamers are flying, made from the young sago frond. I
stay down with the crowd, as I have a better view than
from the dubu platform.
I have not long to wait until there comes a man dressed
in a tall hat, or mask, resembling some strange animal with
peculiar mouth and sharp teeth; his cloak and kilt are of
yellow hibiscus fibre, and a small stick is in his hand. He
has come from some distance back in the bush, where, I am
told, many are assembled, and that all the masks and
dresses I saw the other day in the dubu, with their owners,
are there. He danced about for a short time, when an old
man came before him with a large piece of pork, gave it to
him, and he went away, followed by two young men carry
ing a long pole of food, sago, cocoanuts, betel nuts, and
pepper. Another Kaevakuku followed and did the same
as the first, this time in the dubu ; the conch-shell is being
blown as for a' pig, and soon a live one appears on a pole
between two men. It is placed on the ground, Kaevakuku
dancing round and over it, when a bow and arrow is
presented to him, and he backs a little, says something, lets
fly, and the pig soon breathes his last. The two men pick
the pig up and all leave, followed by two youths carrying H 2

116 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
food. More Kaevakukus come, this time five ; and all
dance until they receive presentation of pig, when they too
clear out. So on it goes until the whole eighty have been.
Some get dogs, whereupon they catch them by the hind
legs and strike the head furiously on the ground. Not a
few are displeased with the small quantity given, and
persistently remain until they get more.
I walked into the bush about a quarter of a mile, where
there was a large crowd of men, some armed, and every
where I turned weapons could be seen. Some were cutting
up pigs, others dogs, putting the pieces into uros and upon
the fire to cook. Some distance back was a large repre
sentation of Semese. It was a mask, fully ten feet high
and three broad : it was surrounded with feathers of various
kinds, and down the middle was curiously painted. I was
anxious to secure some of the masks, and especially the
one representing Semese, but was told that they all had to
be burned. I saw some of my friends, who assisted me in
securing seven, but neither love nor tomahawks could obtain
Semese. Soon, all round, fires were lighted, and masks,
cloaks, and kilts were blazing. I could not remove the
masks I had obtained until dark, that no one might see
them, and especially lest a woman should, as, according to
tradition, she would soon sicken and die. I collected them
and set sentries to watch, as I feared in the burning mania
they might be seized.
After a walk about in the bush and in the village, I
return to find that all the masks had been burned except
my seven, so I asked Meka and his brother to carry them
into the dubu at night, and leave them there until the
schooner comes for sago, when she will take them. The
helaga is over, and all the men go to their homes, from
which they have been separated for some months.
When I first showed these natives pictures they took
not the slightest interest in them, but now they are begin-

AMONG THE CANNIBALS n7
ning to show some appreciation. I have had an interesting
gathering going over my magazines, the natives looking at
the pictures, and passing remarks on each. Singing they
like much, and a good singer, with life and heartiness,
would be to them as one divine. My singing, I fear, will
never steal their hearts away.
I was much interested in my afternoon assembly.
Aruadaera, speaking of peace, life, and love in Christ, was
frequently asked to thoroughly explain it all. One old
chief wondered if he should send his son to Port Moresby
to be taught, so that he might know more of these things.
He seemed afraid that he might starve, being so far away
from home, with a raging sea between. I hope our expla
nations and assurances were satisfactory, and I shall then
obtain two boys to add to the number of students at Port
Moresby. This is indeed a splendid field for missionary labour.
Will the Church of Christ in the South Seas give the men,
and the Church in Britain and the Colonies the money
with a few more missionaries ? How niggardly we act in
everything for Christ ! We speak too much of sacrifices
for the Gospel's sake, or for Christ. I do hope we shall for
ever wipe the word ' sacrifice,' as concerning what we do,
from the missionary speech of New Guinea. May there
never be a missionary or his wife in this mission who will
speak of their ' sacrifices,' or of what ' they have suffered ! '
October 21. — This morning, when the bell was ringing
for early service, there was a terrific shout, then cries of
' Sail ho ! ' in the native language could be heard. On
crossing to the beach I saw it to be our boat, the Rarotonga.
It was still far off, and so we went to service. Our new
house was packed ; and outside were as many more. The
noise and confusion were truly awful ; everybody was trying
to quiet everybody else, and nobody was to be shut up by
any other body. The women were much worse than the

118 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
men, and I think I almost wished there were no women in
creation. We had quiet at times, and especially at the
close. Altogether we had a good service. I like these
first services ; and it is most interesting, years after, to visit
the people and see the change. I spoke in Motu ; Arua
daera and Gabe spoke in Elema. When the service was
finished all rushed for the beach ; and what a shout ! it was
that of a mighty host.
About 8 A.M. the Rarotonga got in, being nearly
swamped crossing the bar. Fortunately, Charlie Oahu,
who knows the passage and can handle a boat skilfully,
was in command.
October 22. — Very early this morning we were all
roused by loud horn-blowing, calling on all able-bodied
men to get up and make ready to go inland to assist the
Motuans in dragging their large trees into the river. Soon
large canoes were full of men, paddling away up the Annie.
We had a fine lot of children at school this morning
(112). They seemed much interested, and I do hope the
Motu boys will interest them sufficiently to keep it up.
To pronounce six, I think, will beat them hollow ; pro
nounce it they never will, their nearest is ' shekist ; ' and
feeling its impossibility, they give one great shout. They
returned again in the afternoon, willing to learn, but full of
mischief and fun ; and I should be sorry to see them
otherwise. October 23. — The large trees are being floated in, and
soon every Motuan will be busy making canoes. What a
difference between the Motuans and Eastern Polynesians !
The former lack energy : go into our school, and you will
see them apparently almost dead, asleep half their time ;
and yet they do hard work, but not with that zest which
the Eastern Polynesians manifest. They are very selfish,
and scarcely ever help one another. They will take all
given them, and look for more, but never think of a return

AMONG THE CANNIBALS 119
present ; and for everything they give or do they look for
payment. Even here the people seem more lively, and cer
tainly are much more generous. As a tribe, the Motuans
are hard, close-fisted, sharp traders.
October 24.— Blew hard from the south-east all night,
but now quite a change ; I hope to get away to-morrow.
We went early to church for service, but no big folks came :
we had over 100 children, so had school. In school work
I am disappointed with the Motuans, who I hoped would
take up the work more zealously. My friends, knowing
that my time for leaving draws near, are beginning to come
in with presents of food, cocoanuts, betel nuts, and pepper.
I have had to warn them against bringing too much. I
am in tolerable health, and should like to get away, so as
to be at Port Moresby about the end of next week.
October 26. — Blowing strong from the south-east all
night, and this morning a deluge of rain greeted us.
When ebb-tide set in the rain left off, and we made a start ;
one of our crew deserting. Notwithstanding all my care
yesterday, we were very heavily laden. I gave orders
again and again to carry nothing for anyone, and that the
crew should only be allowed to take a few betel nuts. It is
a long journey to take in an open boat and in a nasty
Gulf sea. Before getting to the bar we shipped a great
deal of water, and as we got nearer it was evident the boat
would never ride the heavy seas. I fancied I might be of
some use another day, and as to attempt to cross the bar
undoubtedly meant death to all, I gave orders to put about.
In doing so we shipped a large quantity of water, and, oh
horror ! close by us was a huge ugly crocodile. Imagine
my feelings — for describe them I cannot — on seeing the
monster. We had to keep baling, and found it difficult to
make headway against the strong current. I felt very
anxious, as I have a horrible dread of crocodiles. ' A long
pull, a hard pull, and a pull altogether,' brought us right in

120 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and up to our landing, where we were met by a sympathis
ing crowd, who feared when they saw us near the bar that
we should never be seen again. We have landed everything,
and I have spoken seriously to the Motuans about sending
things in a small boat to their friends. It is difficult to say
now when we can get away, but if possible we shall try
again to-morrow.
October 27. — Good sea, fair wind. We again got ready,
and were soon out, followed by a large crocodile. There
being a calm, when we got out we pulled seaward for
several miles, until, meeting a south-west wind, we gave
sail and stood away for Motumotu. We had good wind
and a smooth sea, and by sundown were three miles to the
west of Motumotu. We anchored, and three of the crew
swam ashore, and walked over to the river and got informa
tion about other canoes.
October 29. — At it all night, getting to lokea about 6
A.M. I landed and had breakfast, and intended spending
the day there, but the crew being anxious to get home, and
the sea being smooth, I gave orders to get ready, and we
soon stood away for Maiva. We got a nice fair wind, and
by 1 p.m. we were ashore, where we found all well, and
glad to see us.
At Cape Suckling we experienced a stiff south-easter
and a very heavy sea, and had to put in for shelter. We
remained two nights and a day on the beach, when, the
wind and sea moderating, we started again, arriving at
Port Moresby on November 1. When we landed and re
ported all well, great was the rejoicing, and the feat we
accomplished has remained the wonder of all along the
coast.

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NATIVE TEACHERS

CHAPTER VII
PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1 884
THE success that has attended the labours of native
teachers on New Guinea proper during the last few years
must be very gratifying to the friends of humanity and the
London Missionary Society, and should greatly encourage
them for the future. Since 1872 mission work has been
carried on in New Guinea, and I know of no mission con
nected with this Society, or indeed any other Society, that
can compare with it in results. We must do all we can to
keep the South Sea Churches connected with New Guinea,

122 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and so preserve the working, sympathetic Christ-life
amongst them. As our knowledge of New Guinea in
creases, the Church of Christ in Britain and the South
Seas should be prepared to take up the work. Hitherto
the Directors have put no limit to our extending, and we
have gone on doing so.
In February, 1884, our mission barque, John Williams,
visited us, conveying thirteen teachers and their wives,
accompanied by our old friend and co-worker, Mr. Gill,
late of Rarotonga. On the John Williams leaving us we
distributed the teachers amongst the old stations, that they
might be near to us, and have also the care of the old and
acclimatised teachers, until the south-east monsoon had
really set in, when they would be placed at their own
stations. Teachers on first arrival are almost sure to have
fever, and it is better that they should stay where they can
be attended to.
In May, 1884, we began to locate these teachers at
their own stations, and a sketch of one journey may serve
to show how, in the opinion of those best qualified to judge,
New Guinea can most rapidly and most successfully be
Christianised and civilised.
The first to be located was Sunia, a Tongan, educated
by Mr. Gill on Rarotonga. Having married a widow here,
who understands the Motu dialect, we thought they should
take Tupuselei, a village fourteen miles from Port Moresby,
where formerly a Niue teacher lived. The natives were
highly delighted at having a teacher again amongst them,
and gave Sunia and his wife a good welcome. Since the
death of their old teacher they have had much trouble with
the hill-tribes, old scores thought to be forgotten have been
paid and repaid ; but now a teacher is with them they will
be able to live peaceably.
From Tupuselei we continued our boating to Kapakapa,
where there were two new teachers and their wives living

TUPUSELEI

124

LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

with the old teacher appointed to Saroa, the fine large dis
trict behind Round Head. For long the Saroa natives had
been expecting teachers, knowing when they got them it
would tend to secure peace all round. For the last few
months they had been busy paying off compensations (for
murders committed by them) and making peace.
On our arrival at Kapakapa a large number of men

CANOE OFF TUPUSELEI

came in to carry the teachers' goods, and they told us it
was now all peace. The following morning we started with
a large company, and taking it leisurely, arrived about IO
A.M. at Rigo, the first of the Saroa villages. A new house
had been finished for the teacher, and from it the view is
unsurpassed on New Guinea. After placing the other
teacher at another village, about two miles further east

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 125
and visiting other villages, and hearing entreaties for more
teachers, we returned to Rigo.
Having some students and several Port Moresby natives
with us, we went into the village and spent several hours
singing on one of their large platforms. It was a beauti
fully clear moonlight night, and leaving the singers, we
walked to a good position at the west end of the village,
where the view was splendid. I have travelled much in
this great land, but have seen nothing to surpass the view
of that night for picturesqueness.
On our right were the Gerese Hills, and on our left the
Coast Range, and lying before us the hills and valleys of
Saroa and Manukolo, and behind these the higher hills of
Kerema stretching away to the Astrolabe Range. Further
inland, as if guarding these and rising dark above them all,
is the Owen Stanley Range, ending in the high unvisited
mountain of the same name. Everywhere near us were
well-watered valleys and ridges, with plantations and
villages scattered here and there, containing kindly-disposed
people. It is to be hoped there will soon be sufficient
teachers to occupy all the principal villages. We returned
to Port Moresby, and after spending one night sailed in the
Ellengowan for the west.
Ever since Mr. Lawes joined the mission, the one cry of
the Motu natives has been ' Westward ho.' The largest
population, and the freest, kindest, wildest natives are there.
They, especially those in Freshwater Bay, care for no one,
domineer the other tribes, and think their sweet will is law.
I know them well, and my cry has also been, ' To the west
— to the west with our youngest, strongest, bravest, best
teachers.' Again and again have the natives of Motumotu
asked for teachers, promising to treat them well, and to live
peaceably with their neighbours. They have them now,
and they feel our promise is sure, though often long delayed
through no fault of outs.

126 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
We found good anchorage in two fathoms just outside
Alice Meade Lagoon, about two miles from Motumotu.
The foreign ladies, Mrs. Lawes and the teachers' wives,
caused great excitement, but the excitement par excellence
was Taui, the infant daughter of one of the teachers, who
had been baptized by the Rev. J. Jefferis, at Pitt Street
Congregational Church, Sydney. From before sunrise to
after sunset she was nursed by nurses innumerable. She
is a pretty child, nearly as white as an English-born infant,
but during our stay, by the too kindly attentions of her
nurses, was made as black as a Motumotuan. She was
often washed, only to be made as black as ever.
Motumotu is at the mouth of the Williams River. I had
often wished to go up this river, and visit a reported large
village, Moveave, for years at enmity with Motumotu, but
could never before find sufficient time. We intended
spending a few days with the teachers, so as to give them
a good start with their new demonstrative friends, and we
decided to ascend the river. We got a canoe, and paddled
up one of the branches into a small creek, where we were
dragged through more mud than water up to the village.
As we neared the village our friends from Motumotu were
somewhat fearful and anxious ; and not until after we had
been some time in the village did they gain confidence.
The population is very large, the houses are well built on
posts, and there are many dubus. Our old friend Semese
proclaimed words of peace, which were reiterated by the
Moveaveans, and all felt that it was well, and friendship
was restored. We were at first met by a large armed
party, with bows and arrows innumerable ; this was
speedily converted into a noisy, demonstrative peace
party, and increased much in numbers. Before we had
finished our visit to the village and dubus, not la weapon
was to be seen. Fires were started, and pots containing
queer viands were soon placed on them.

;.%:.

W. G. LAWES, OF PORT MORESBY

128 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
We ascended one dubu to the platform, twenty feet
from the ground, where we sat down on a mat given for
the purpose. So great a crowd followed us that the plat
form gave unmistakable signs of a very hurried and un
pleasant descent. Several posts and cross-beams gave
way, and we thought it advisable to get off as quickly as
possible. In the street in front a temporary shade was
erected for us, and mats spread, on which we squatted,
with more than a thousand people around us. We received
presents of areca nuts and betel, pepper and cocoanuts,
bananas and yams, and various dishes of cooked food. On
the islands of the west highlands of Scotland the poor
people make porridge mixed with shell-fish. At Moveave
they make sago porridge mixed with the same ; also with
dried fish and other things. Taking one of the dishes, and
thinking it contained sago and dried fish, I began eating
heartily, until I noticed peculiar claws and a rather long
tail, and on inquiry found I had been relishing stewed
iguana !
After the crowd had enjoyed a smoke all round, there
were loud and persistent calls that we should sing ; so
getting our singing companions near us we sang, to their
great delight, and were encored again and again. But the
sun kept hurrying down, and before he dipped we wished
to be at Motumotu ; so we had to get up and bid them
good-bye, promising soon to return again.
We arrived at Motumotu before sundown, and were in
time to see one of the most interesting and fairy-like sights
I have yet witnessed on New Guinea. When some dis
tance from the village we heard drums beating, and knew
that a dance was on. From the sound of the drums and
loud singing, we could tell it was a lively one. Ere long
we were in the village, and sitting beside them. A
thorough fancy dress ball, the beginning of a series, was
being held. This afternoon's was for the little children

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 129
assisted by young men and women. In front the young
men, to the number of thirty, were drumming, dancing,
and singing ; and to their time young men and women,
arm in arm and facing them, were singing and dancing ;
and behind them again younger ones, arm in arm ; and
behind these, children holding one another's hands, all
earnestly engaged in the same occupation. From the
child of four years to the young man and maiden of
eighteen and twenty, all were happy and terribly in earnest.
Every head was wonderfully cropped ; some had squares,
others circles, and others triangles ; their faces were painted
with many colours, variegated leaves hung from their arms,
waist, and legs. The ladies had beautiful petticoats, made
from the young sago palm leaf and dyed various colours,
and all had fastened on to their backs, rising over their
heads more than two feet, and hanging gracefully in a
curve like a Prince of Wales feather, the youngest leaf ot
the sago nicely prepared. Tied round their knees and
ankles was plaited bark with tassels attached. How happy
all were, and how pleased at being admired ! Mothers
everywhere are alike, and here they were standing by, each
thinking her own child or children the best, and every now
and again throwing out a suggestion or giving an encourag
ing word. When the sun set all was over, and they retired
to their homes.
One afternoon, walking through the east part of the
village, we saw a young swell with two men and one woman
dressing him for some very important occasion. He was
being dressed in his very best, and the best also of his parents,
for that afternoon he was to be married and take his bride
home. Every hair on his head seemed in place. He wore
a coronet of plumes made from the feathers of various
birds, conspicuously the Paradisea Raggiana ; on his
forehead a frontlet of smah shells ; hanging from his ears a
number of tortoise-shell earrings ; in his nose the much-
.1

130

LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

prized shell ornament ; his face beautifully marked in
small squares with red, yellow, and black. Round his
neck were strings of shell beads ; hanging on his chest a
large pearl shell ; round his waist a finely carved and
painted bark belt, and as trousers a new sihi. He was
gorgeously got up, and many friends looked on and
admired. Standing close by the house were quantities of
sago and bananas, and some women tying up bows and

A NATIVE OF PORT MORESBY

arrows into bundles. We returned to our camp, and were
squatting at tea, when we observed a large crowd, and as
they passed we saw our swell masher in the centre, hand
in hand with a buxom, handsomely dressed lady, who was
well besmeared with red ochre. They were preceded by a
crowd of shouting urchins, and followed by a number of
old women carrying bananas ; behind these came a small
army of young men and women carrying sago and bananas,

'¦••'iM

CI

WIDOW MOURNERS AND A DEAD-HOUSE

132 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and last of all an old man with several bunches of ripe
bananas, from which he plucked a few, and from time to
time threw over the heads of the married party into the
crowd ahead, when a scramble took place, all evidently
being anxious to secure one. The bride and bridegroom
on arriving at home were received by the bride's friends,
who took all the food, and gave a large return present.
One morning very early we were awakened by drums
beating and loud wailing. A long time ago a man had
died and was buried close by ; to-day his widows leave
his grave and don the knitted garment of widowhood
prepared by them during all the months they have been
indoors with the dead. We visited the grave, which was
covered in. Several were sitting by, some mourning, others
fitting knitted gaiters on the widows' legs ; up till now they
have been quite naked. Outside, under a shade, was a
banana stump dressed to represent the dead, with all his
dress and ornaments on, and all round it the old men of
the village were sitting, looking solemn and speaking of
their dead friend. Afterwards food was brought, and
placed before the supposed dead, who was said to have
given his last feast. The old men divided the food, and
ate it in his memory ; and when finished they took his
dress and ornaments and divided them amongst the
relatives. When the feast was over, the widows came out
into public dressed in their knitted garments, which
covered them close from the neck to under the knees.
On the Sunday we had two well-attended services, for
singing and preaching, but prayer drove the crowd helter-
skelter to their homes. Some years ago, on the occasion
of my first visit, the same happened. I asked an old Motu
friend to prepare them for prayer, and having done so, he
began by shutting his eyes, and at the sound of the first
words the earth trembled with the stampede.
Securing Motumotu means our filling up the whole

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 133
Elema district in a few years, and then pressing inland.
I think 20,000 is too low an estimate for the Elema
population, and they being once under tuition, Namau
and Vaimuru will follow in no far away future ; and so an
extensive coast-line will be open, or rather is even now
open, to Christianity and to commerce.
We bade our friends farewell, leaving these young men
and women, who for Christ's sake and from sympathy with
Him in His great work of redeeming the race had left
their comfortable homes, peace, and plenty in Eastern
Polynesia, willing to endure sickness, want, and trials,
relying upon His care who alone can care for them.
They are certainly the heroes and martyrs of the nine
teenth century.
A strong south-easter having sprung up, we tumbled
and tossed for forty-two hours in the Gulf, when we
anchored in Hall Sound. We rested one night, and on
the following morning got into our boat and pulled away
to Maiva to place the Kivori teachers. We landed some
miles to the east of Maiva, fearing the sea was too rough
for us to land at the first station.
We anchored our boat safely in a creek, and then went
to a point close by to satisfy our hunger. Our luncheon
was ample, and only just a little spoiled by being some
what gritty from the sand blown along before the strong
south-easter. The tramp in rain along the beach was certainly better
and more enjoyable than the sail in the rough sea outside
would be. We had good fun crossing a large creek : the
tide being well out, we waded across in three and four
feet of water, but when in the middle we met with soft
sinking sand, and in some places sank down so far that it
became necessary to swim.
On our arrival at Maiva we had a hearty welcome from
the teachers and friends, and we felt as if at home. How

134 LIFE ANDZWORKIIN NEW GUINEA
changed everything had become in a few years ! Once we
sojourned with the Maivans, sleeping in their out-places,
platforms, streets, and dubus, wondering if our lives were
safe ; now, we were lodged in comfortable teachers' houses,
near churches where every day life in Christ is preached,
surrounded by friendly, peaceable natives, whose one
anxiety is to make us comfortable. We always liked the
Maivans, but more so now that they have listened to words
of peace, and a few, we trust, have believed the words of
eternal life. They are our friends and the friends of all,
and are anxious to live as such. Only the Gospel of
Christ as lived by the teachers could have produced such
results. God's power unto salvation in the past is His
power now, and will ever be so.
We had now been hard at work for nearly three weeks
by land and sea, and often day and night, and felt very
pleased with the prospect of a rest — a rest broken only by
a few days' work leisurely spent placing teachers at Kivori,
near Cape Possession. We left Maiva one morning with
quite an army of natives, some carrying boxes, etc., the
property of the teachers, others our swags, articles for trade
and food. Other friends accompanied us who were anxious
for a holiday, a change from their otherwise never-changing
life. The Kivori natives received us well. They had the
one teacher's house finished, a fine large one, where soon
we were camping and feeling at home as if at an old
station. After a short siesta (much needed, as we had
walked along a sandy beach in a burning sun and little
wind) we were barricaded with numerous dishes of food
and cocoanuts. We showed every respect to our numerous
hosts, tasted several dishes, held on to one because of its
thoroughly excellent quality, and disposed of the others
amongst our followers. We met all the chiefs, spoke to
them of the teachers and their mission, and then received
their sincere promise to treat the teachers kindly. On

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 135
Sunday we had services, and as usual the singing was
greatly enjoyed. At services in the house we dispensed
with singing because of the crush it caused, and the
difficulty experienced in getting rid of the excited crowd
when it was over.
On Sunday afternoon we returned to Maiva, when we
met five people, anxious for baptism — one, a good old
friend, who begged earnestly to be received into the Church
of Christ. On the Monday there was one of those soul-
stirring gatherings that are met with in these heathen
lands, composed of a crowd of natives who have come to
see the first native converts baptized into the Church of
Christ, the converts themselves, and the mission party.
Only after a long period of preparation as catechumens
and receiving instruction, and after > a thorough public
profession of faith in Christ, do we baptize them. In this
instance the five were men who have been for a long time
connected with the mission, taken part in the services, and
held short services in other villages. The wholesale
baptizing of natives simply because they would like to be,
or were told to be, or because they were willing to do lotu
by taking a piece of cloth or shirt, is surely not Christianity,
and can only be done for effect. If the mere adhesion
to the mission and the willingness to have clothing is
sufficient, then thousands connected with us should long
ago have been baptized. But of what use would it be, as
they are still heathen, though friendly ? The enlightening
goes on, and one after another is led from the dense
darkness through the glimmering light on to the full light
of glorious freedom in Christ and His cross — set free from
their superstition by His truth. But not in the present or
following generation will the superstitions of these people
be entirely overcome. There are nearly 2,000 people
being taught on New Guinea connected with our branch
of the mission ; and it may safely be hoped the young will

136 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
know little of the past, and they will be free from much
their parents believed.
On our leaving Maiva we walked along the beach to
the boat, where the sea was breaking very heavily on the
bar of the creek, and a light boat being best for our weak
crew, we decided to walk along the beach to Aoo Point ;
and instructing the crew how to manage, we sent them off.
They got over the bar, with only a few ' tops ' getting on
board, and stood away for the Point. The walk for eight
miles barefooted was most enjoyable. By this walking
we have found that we can visit Maiva in all kinds of
weather. We reached Delena about sundown. At night I could
not help feeling that perhaps for quiet picturesqueness we
have no station to surpass this. The mission premises
are on a flat about seventy-five feet- above sea-level, and
surrounded by extensive banana plantations ; on the side
of the hill there is a tall bush, and on the coast dense
mangrove scrub, over which the mission-house looks ; the
village nestles at the foot of the hill on the shore of Hall
Sound, where our vessel, the Ellengowan, is at anchor, and
across the Sound is Yule Island, and away beyond that the
Gulf of Papua, stretching to Torres Straits. The night
was still ; not sufficient wind to rustle the leaves ; the
moon was in the west, near the first quarter, with a
cloudless sky, and stretching a silver band from the station
across the Sound and over the Gulf to herself. Our
thoughts were varied, but one was uppermost — God
binding us all to Himself by the band of love, and so
blessing all the present Christian work in which we are
engaged. The following morning, after an early breakfast, we were
away again on our road to Naara, behind Cape Suckling,
to give our Queen Koloka her long-promised teacher.
The weather was fine, but there was a long heavy swell

QUEEN KOLOKA OF NAMOA

138 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
breaking on the reef, from the south-west, and causing a
nasty sea inside. Once or twice our boat, which was fairly
laden, eighteen all told, besides teachers' goods, was nearly
swamped. We had to keep baling all the way until we
entered the creek, where we left the boat and took to
walking. We had six miles to walk to Namoa, Koloka's
village, where we had the usual kind reception. All were
delighted that at last they had their teacher. Koloka
said, ' I did not think you intended keeping your word ; it
has been long to wait.' We slept in the large house built
for the teacher, and the following morning returned to the
boat. The sea was much better, and a light south-easter
was blowing ; we gave sheet, and were not long in getting
to Delena. We rested there, and went on board the
following morning, and in thirty-six hours landed at Port
Moresby. There we heard a report that foreigners had been
murdered inland of Aroma, and knowing Aroma's liking
for that kind of business, we felt uncomfortable. One
gentleman who was said to have been murdered had been
kind to the natives, and very kind to our teachers, and by
his example had done much to assist them. But in the
course of a few days we heard truthful news, and learnt that
our friend was well, and would be at Port Moresby soon.
So we felt more comfortable in going on with our work of
locating teachers.
We did not now require the Ellengowan, so she was
sent to Murray Island ; and we took boat and started
for Boera, where two Samoan teachers and their wives
were anxiously waiting to get away. These were the first
to come to New Guinea from the Samoan Mission, and
they were removing to one of the nearest, quietest, and
best districts.
By 9 o'clock on a fine clear moonlight night we left
Boera, with three boats all heavily laden. We had a fine

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 139
strong breeze with us through Caution Bay into Redscar
Bay, where the wind dropped to a calm, and we had to
pull to an anchorage in the Manumanu. By half-past 2
AM. we were all asleep, beautifully packed, sardine-fashion.
By 6 A.M. we were again under way, and pulling up the
Apisi Creek. At 9 o'clock we anchored, landed every
thing, and then marched away across country, through
stinking swamps, to Kabadi.
For some time, owing to raids by the Motumotu and
Lese natives, the coast villages of Kabadi had been nearly
deserted, and the natives had been living on their planta
tions, very much scattered. We had one teacher for the
coast, and one for the villages inland, on the right bank of
the Aroa River. The natives were glad to see us, and
promised to finish the house for the teacher immediately.
We slept one night there, and the following morning
walked inland, where great joy was expressed on seeing
their teacher. The old chief, Naime, told us he did
not know what to think ; he did not like to think we
should break our promise, but so long a time had
passed since the promise that he certainly was afraid that
no teacher was coming. Now it was all right, and the
great event was celebrated by a feast. We spent a few
very pleasant days at Kabadi, and then returned to Port
Moresby. On July 23, 1885, I got my boat out, packed in
the stores, and started for a trip to some of the stations
east of Port Moresby. It took us all day to get to Pyramid
Point. Being dark, the wind blowing fresh, and the sea
breaking heavily against the Point, we anchored for the
night, and the following morning at daybreak, in calm
weather, we pulled to Tupuselei, where we breakfasted.
Leaving Tupuselei, we stood well out to the Barrier Reef;
the wind freshening, we put about and stood well up for
Kaile, where we anchored early in the afternoon. At

140 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
sundown the wind ceased, and we pulled to Kapakapa,
leaving teachers' supplies, and pushed on until we got to
Round Head, where we met the south-easter again, with
rain. We kept on until Friday morning about 2 o'clock,
when we anchored and waited for day.
By daylight we were away again, hoping to get to Hula,
i.e. Hood Point, early ; but the wind increasing and the sea
running heavily, we did not reach our destination until
4 P.M. All were tired, and I decided to remain there
until Monday morning. On Saturday I distributed
presents from the Government of Queensland to the natives,
who had rendered timely assistance at the wreck of a
biche-de-mer vessel, the Pride of the Logan. On Sunday
we had several well-attended services of old and
young. Ever since the visit of H.M. ship Wolverene to Kalo, in
1 88 1 , when the natives were punished for their cruel massacre
of the teachers, they have been anxious to have a teacher
again stationed with them, and had promised to treat him
well. From the last band of native teachers from Eastern
Polynesia we selected one, Tau and his wife, from Rarotonga,
to go there. During the few months that had elapsed since
their arrival they had had fever, but were well now, and
anxious to get to work. A good house was built by the
Kalo people, under the superintendence of the Hula
teacher, and after the house was finished many were the
visits paid to Hula, to know when their teachers would
come to live with them. The week before I arrived,
several came in to Hula, determined to carry their teacher
and his wife off, saying they were afraid we were only
going to deceive them.
On the Saturday I sent a messenger to inform them of
my arrival, and on the Sunday we had quite a number of
them at each of the services. The two leading chiefs were
also present, and in the afternoon they said they would

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"4*silll wM Eafei-
iisiifiKiiip
»
¦ ¦mm - ---»•> 11 g tt^—
¦'il?' s #IL a
142 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
return and prepare for our arrival, and get plenty of food
cooked. On Monday morning Renaki, the senior Hula chief,
and a number of young men came, and we started, taking
with us all the things that Tau and his wife wished, leaving
the most of their goods at Hula. There had been a great
deal of rain the night before ; it was still raining a little,
and the grass was wet, so the walking was not very
pleasant. Arriving at Kalo, we at once took possession of
the house, which was soon crowded with an enthusiastic
and rejoicing lot of natives. After a little while I paid for
the house, and then sent for all the chiefs, four in number,
to whom I gave presents, and begged of them to be kind
to Tau and his wife, which they cheerfully promised. The
chief's son, with whom the former teacher lived, and who
was one of the active murderers, told me that the piece of
land belonging to the Society had never been touched, and
he hoped that, as the past had been forgiven, Tau would
take possession at once, and begin planting. Kulu, a chief
who had had nothing whatever to do with the massacre,
told the Hula teacher that they were all afraid and ashamed,
but that now they felt more comfortable, and would assist
the teacher. All assured me they would take care that our
trust in them would not again be forfeited. In the after
noon the eldest son of the chief Quaipo, who planned the
attack, came with a pig and a large quantity of food. At
one time we received twenty-four dishes of cooked food,
and several hundreds of young cocoanuts.
In the evening a number of our Hula friends returned ;
but, anxious to show the Kalo natives that I trusted them,
I decided to remain, and to return to Hula the following
morning. Shortly after sundown we were left alone, and
at first I doubted if I had done right in remaining, lest I
should be the means of leading our teachers and their
wives and my boat's crew into trouble. No Europeans

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 143
had slept there since the massacre. We were quite at their
mercy, being in an unprotected house and unarmed, and
had they attacked me we should all have been killed. In
one sense it was foolhardy, as the natives had often said
that nothing would satisfy them but my head. On the
other hand, if all went well, it would be the best augury for
future success. I did not feel quite at my ease, and had
fully intended to keep awake and watchful through the
night. But after evening prayers I rolled myself up in
my blanket, feeling it very cold. In spite of my prudent
intentions, I soon was sound asleep, and never woke until
the next morning at daylight. The people were pleased
that I should have shown such confidence in them, as they
all knew we were quite unarmed. May He who protected
us soon become known unto them !
On Wednesday, the weather being fine, I proceeded to
Aroma, calling at Kerepunu. All were well, and glad to
see me, as they had long expected me, and the teacher and
his wife appointed to Belerupu, Macfarlane Harbour, were
wearying to be at work. Both had suffered a great deal
from fever, but were now much better. For some time
their house had been finished, and the people were anxious
to have them both amongst them. The next morning by
3.30 we were off in two boats, and by 9 o'clock were
ashore and in the house. The people appear to be quiet
and kind ; they received us well, and appeared delighted
that at length they too had their teacher. There are about
six hundred people in the village, half living ashore and
half at sea in the harbour. The Clara River (so named by
the late Mr. Beswick, he being the first to ascend it) enters
the harbour close by the village. The people, although
now apparently quiet and friendly, have had, I fear, a great
deal to do with the various murders on the coast at Cloudy
Bay. Belerupu is the most easterly village of the Aroma
district, and the one holding the most communication with

144 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
the Mailiu district, especially with Mailiukolu, or Toulon
Island. The inhabitants seem to be under the Maopa
natives, and our old friend Koapena has some power over
them, for to him they give tribute, in food, pigs, and fish.
Anxious to get back to Parimata, the most westerly of the
Aroma villages, and near to Keppel Point, before it began
to blow again — for when blowing hard it is dangerous to
cross the Keakalo Bay in an open boat — we left in the
afternoon. I was glad to find at Aroma that at last there were a
few who were anxious to be taught, and were inquiring
more diligently into the Gospel preached to them during
these last few years. I spent a very pleasant, and I trust
to all a profitable evening at Parimata. In speaking to
Koapena of the teacher and his teaching, I asked him when
he was going to receive and believe the Gospel. Turning
to a teacher who was interpreting for me, he said,
'Teach me more, only keep teaching me, and if you had
done that, I might have been the first to understand and
believe.' Well done, Koapena ; faith, blind faith, without
knowledge, you are not willing to have ; mere acquiescence
would never become my big, strong-minded friend. He is
said to be the finest physical specimen of a native in all the
Western Pacific. ¦
By daylight the : next morning I was in the boat, and
bowling along before a fine steady breeze. Calling at
Kerepunu, and finding that all was right there, we con
tinued to Hula, just in time to avoid a strong south-easter
and dark, dirty weather. There I received a letter from
Tau, saying he and his wife werewell, and the people and
chiefs were treating them kindly. We also received a few
limes from a tree planted by the former teacher. Next
year, Tau says, they will have oranges.
Fearing the weather might get worse, and being
anxious to get back to Port Moresby, I left Hula at night,

PIONEER MISSION WORK IN 1884 145
running before a strong wind, in some places not at all
pleasant because of the many reefs, every now and again
pulling up or running off. At Pyramid Point it was par
ticularly nasty, and very dark ; but we passed safely, and
bowled along at a grand rate near the Barrier Reef. By
4.30 A.M. we landed at Port Moresby, ready for a good
sleep. And so east and west we keep extending, and I
trust will continue to do so until New Guinea is occupied
with earnest men and women preaching Christ and leading
thousands to Him.

146 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

CHAPTER VIII
SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES
I. Granny : one of the. early Friends of the
New Guinea Mission
In 1872 the mission on New Guinea proper was begun at
Manumanu. Six teachers, with their wives, were left there
by Messrs. Murray and Gill, in the hope that as they
became acquainted with the people they would strike out
on either side and possess the land. During the earlier
days visitors were numerous, and came in from every
direction. Among these was a smart, kindly woman, who
determined to make these foreigners her friends, and to
help them in every possible way. Her name was Keua ;
she was a widow, and had a child sixteen months old.
She was constantly moving around the teachers' house, and
as they became familiar with the dialect they found that
her one and constant exclamation was : ' You are in the
wrong place. Come to Hanuabada, the largest of all the
villages on this part of the coast. It is my land, and the
centre of this tribe. We are one. Come and see.'
1 What does this woman mean by a large village, not
very far away, and more healthy than Manumanu ? Let
us see for ourselves.' So reasoned the teachers ; and they
hoped to return with her to her home ; but fever set in,
and one after another died from it. Keua returned to her
home, but ever since that time she became intimately con
nected with our mission. In all the older missions of the

1 48 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
South Pacific there were a few who came to the teachers
at the outset, and who with great consistency have
adhered to them throughout. Many have gone home,
both men and women, who were faithful unto death, and
a few remain, who await the time when they too shall go.
The teachers were removed from Manumanu in 1873,
and were placed at Port Moresby by Mr. Murray, the
father of the New Guinea Mission. Soon the active
widow appeared on the scene, and claimed peculiar friend
ship with the new arrivals. They were all placed on the
eastern side ; her home was on the western side. She
thought it unjust that her side should have no teachers,
and expressed herself accordingly. But the old chief
objected, saying, ' They will bring us sickness, and we shall
all die. You,' he said, referring to Keua, ' brought
them here. What right had you to tell them of our
land ? and who but you invited them to come and live
amongst us ? '
She came daily to the teachers, and helped them in
every possible way — carrying wood, gettipg water, and
cooking for them. The people tried daily to persuade her
to leave them and have nothing more to do with them, but
she persistently turned a deaf ear to all their entreaties.
She began to relish foreign food, such as rice and biscuits,
which she used herself and gave to her child. Her
friends grew frantic with terror, and became assured she
had gone mad. A few months passed, and she delivered
up her child to Ruatoka's wife, who accepted it by giving
it a new name, Sema, which the youth now bears.
A year passed, and Mr. and Mrs. Lawes arrived. As
Keua had not sufficient work to keep herself employed at
home, she went over daily to assist Mrs. Lawes. Had it
not been for her, they would often have been without wood
and water. During the two years Mrs. Lawes was in the
mission, Keua hung on, frequently helping herself to things

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 149
not her own. It was her failing that she did not under
stand the law of meum and tuum. Often she stole things
that could have been of no use to her, and when she was
accused she was, accordingtoher own account, ever innocent,
never guilty. On one of Mr. Lawes' inland trips she
proved to be one of the best carriers in the whole party,
never flagging under her heavy burden.
On the arrival of the John Williams on one occasion,
she went off with others to see the vessel, having taken the
precaution before leaving the house to get a paper on which
was written in large letters, ' This is Mrs. Lawes' servant'
When she arrived on board she was greeted by all the
white people as a friend, and cast all the other natives into
the shade. She says, ' The foreigners would come and look
at my mark, shake my hand, and smile, and would then
give me tobacco and cloth.' As she smokes, tobacco was
a very valuable present to her.
When Mrs. Chalmers and myself arrived in New Guinea,
we found her about the mission-house. We soon made
friends with her; giving her the new name of ' Granny.' She
became very much attached to Mrs. Chalmers. She
religiously keeps dresses given her years ago, wearing them
only on very extraordinary occasions, and when asked,
' Granny, why not wear that dress ? ' she replies, ' No ; it
was given me by Tamate Vaine, and I must keep it.'
As she was a good-looking native woman, strong and
active, I often wondered why she never married again, and
I once said to her, ' Now, Granny, how comes it that you
do not marry ? Motu women soon marry after mourning
for their first husbands, and still you are unmarried.'
' No, never again, never ! ' she replied. ' My first
husband beat me, and see on my shoulder the mark of a
spear which he threw at me. Men are bad ; they are wild
and passionate, and only think of women as beasts. Many
prefer their pig and dog to their wife. I will never, never

150 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
again marry ! I am happy now, and I shall remain as I
am.' On another occasion she said : ' No Motu man could
ever propose for me, the price he would have to give would
be much more than any one could ever collect' The price
of Keua was as follows : three pigs, one tusk, dresses, two
large bundles of sago, eighteen arm- shells, and large pieces
of dugong and turtle.
Women are much better treated on the coast than they
are inland. Inland they are often speared or clubbed to
death for the slightest offence. Once when we interfered to
save a woman from some men who were running after her to
spear her, an old Koiari woman said to us, ' Why do you
interfere ? Don't you know the Koiari man kills his wife
when he likes, knowing he will soon get another ? '
On the coast, I fancy, they have too much to do and
say, and it is only when they are terribly exasperated that
the men beat their women. Generally the woman will
leave her lord after a beating, and go to her own friends ;
but the quarrel ends in the lord eating humble-pie, and
coming to the friends as a suppliant, confessing his fault,
and begging for his wife. He will on such an occasion
bring a pig, an arm-shell, or some other present to appease
the wrath of the friends — a peace-offering, or a token, I fear,
of his submission.
My friend, Oa of Maiva, tried hard to get Granny to
accompany him to his home. I was appealed to, and,
fancying the lady rather inclined to it, I said it was for her
to decide. Her sons — married men — on hearing it were
wild, and entreated their mother to give up all thought of
it. Their tears brought her back to her former determina
tion, and she told Oa that she would never marry again.
Her sons were doubtful, and as the time drew near for Oa's
return to his own home, they armed themselves, and jealously
watched their mother day and night, afraid lest she might

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152 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
change her mind, and in some secret way disappear. Oa,
attracted by a younger woman, formed anew friendship, and
gave up all idea of our friend.
One night, when campingonthe Astrolabe Hills, Granny
entertained us with an amusing account of her husband,
when he wished to introduce a second wife into the house.
For a long time he had looked on this woman, and wished
much that she could share his house, but he had some fear
about it. At last he told his relatives, arid they assisted
him. Granny said, ' I often wondered why he was collect
ing shell-armlets, and, at times, I feared it was for a second
wife ; but I was determined that no second wife should
ever live with my husband while I was alive. I did not
know that he wished another, and always thought myself a
good wife, and sufficient for him. One morning his friends
entered my house, bringing a woman with them ; also
several earthenware pots and various kinds of food. I
knew well what they wanted, but appeared ignorant. I
said, " You need not come here to cook ; I am young, and
strong, and well, and can do that. You need bring no food
here, my store-house is full of all kinds ; and as for pots,
these I can make as well as any woman in the Motu tribe.
Away with you now, and for ever." I then took their pots
and threw them out, and sent the food after them. My
husband's friends were wild with anger. He himself was
silent and hung down his head. I told the woman that as
the sun was high she could wait until the cool of the after
noon, but then she must leave my house and my husband
for ever. In the evening she left, after I had given her
something to eat. I never expect again to see her, although
she lives only a few miles from here.'
' You know,' she continued, ' I was a very proud, haughty
woman.' ' Indeed you were, Keua ; and hard to please,' said some
natives, who stood close by and heard her words.

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 153
' No,' she replied. ' Two women in one house cannot
agree, and I would never consent to such an arrangement'
In many of my inland and coast trips, Granny accom
panied me, as I found her to be a most useful help. When
we could not get carriers, and each had to carry our own
swag, Granny never grumbled at having to carry camp
utensils and other things ; and besides that she was always
ready to cook food and attend on us. Often she has been
left entirely in charge of camp, with all our barter goods
open, but never have we missed anything. She is a
marvellous woman in accommodating herself to all kinds
of circumstances ; able to sleep anywhere, or to do
without sleep ; to eat anything that we had, or to go without
food ; in sun or rain, by day or night, always contented.
She could hold conversation with all the tribes we met, and
we everywhere found her invaluable as an interpreter.
She had no difficulty in making herself at home with
the women ; and naturally they gathered round her to
hear her wonderful tales of the white people who lived in
her land, far away on the coast, and of all the tribes we
had visited, and the countries we had seen. It was amusing
on these trips to hear her speak disdainfully of the dark
heathen people amongst whom we were sojourning:
they were not like her people, who were now enlightened.
She seemed never to be afraid, though always keeping a
good look-out On several occasions we were in rather
peculiar circumstances, and had reason to suspect that
things were not all right, yet Granny kept apparently
calm. Granny was good for coasting as well as for inland
travel. She was never sea-sick, and always ready to get a
fire and cook when we landed.
Time wears on, and the work of past years, and the
continuous listening to reading and prayer, and — when
at home' — the constant attendance at school and services,

154 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
were seen in what we believe was the changed life in dear
old Granny. She learned to pray, and said that she desired
to love Christ — to be His alone. Her knowledge of Christ
and of His Word was scant indeed ; but looking to her
change in life, and to her expressed desire, we could not
but baptize her as one of the loving Saviour's own disciples.
II. Kirikeu of South Cape.
Upon first reaching a new station there are generally
two or three men who take to you and you to them.
Sometimes they are men of influence, and become great
helps. They are not always the first to receive the Gospel ;
it more generally happens that some unknown outsider is
the first to come forward and declare for Christ and His
Word. The man I am now going to sketch was old when
we arrived at South Cape, and being a man of influence and
much respected, was indeed very helpful to us in many
ways. The first time we went to South Cape we anchored
in the evening, and in the morning were surrounded with
canoes full of noisy natives, who came on board and made
themselves quite at home. One old man, who seemed to
think he had a right to go everywhere in our schooner,
found his way aft and made friends with Tamate Vaine
(Mrs. Chalmers). He wore round his neck a string of
bones, and offered these as a mark of friendship, but they
were not accepted. From these bones he was called ever
after ' Bag o' Bones,' and for a long time was known by no
other name. His real name was Kirikeu. When he knew
that we wished to stay and build, he was very anxious we
should live near him ; and on our deciding for his village
he was perfectly satisfied, and then, I now believe, became
our real friend, resolved to help us in every possible way.
The strip of land now belonging to the London Missionary
Society was bought from him and paid in trade. Remem-

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 155
bering the many things said against missionaries cheating
the natives in land purchases, I determined to pay for all
land bought for mission use what I considered a fair price,
so that in future it might not be said we had outreached
the natives. I paid at the rate of thirty shillings per acre —
a good price, I think, for unused land. The old man and
his friends were highly delighted, and now he looked upon
us as his children. When we were in great danger,
surrounded by a painted and armed crowd while living
in Manuegu's house, the old man was in the bush. On
hearing what was taking place, he hurried in, advising me
to accede to the demands ; but on finding I would not yield,
he got the chief to lead his party away into the bush. The
old man returned home, asking me for something, to
which I answered, ' No, no ; never to threats.' He left,
and after some time came and sat by us until late at
night. He was the great talker of the village, and at night, or
very early in the morning, would get on to his platform
when all were asleep or near it, and express his thoughts
on things general or particular. That is very common
throughout this part of New Guinea. Pent-up wrath often
explodes on the platform. Hunters returning unsuccessful
from the chase let forth on the sorcerers and evil spirits.
Fishermen, after a weary day or night trying the net in
many places, but ' catching nothing,' will, in the weary
sleepy native hour between 8 and 9 at night, pour
forth their fulminations of wrath. They may contain
themselves till the morning, but when the morning star has
climbed the near hills they begin, and continue until light
has spread itself like a gauzy garment over all Nature.
Then wrath is gone, and they hope for more success in
future. Our old friend was great at this work.
When we were passing through what we called the
Mayri troubles, he was our adviser as to where we should

156 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
go and what we should do ; and I believe now he used his
influence for our preservation. During that time he always
came to us armed with a large knife, assuring us that he
and his son would defend us with their lives. He often
came looking anxious, and besought us to keep a good
look-out and not go far away. On the day of the burial
of a native who had been shot, when great crowds were
about our house, he would not go to the meeting, but
remained by us all day, taking an occasional walk
round in the bush. Knowing that sorcerers were being
employed to pray us or exorcise us dead, he employed
two old sorcerers from the mainland to use their powers
on our behalf.
Some time after, when opening a box, I brought out a
bag of pease ; Kirikeu was assisting me : he thought they
were shot, and at once left to inform them in the village
that we were terribly armed, and they must be careful.
When he returned in the afternoon I spoke sharply to him ;
but he thought them shot until he saw them boiled and
eaten. Our tinned meat he, with other natives, believed to
be man ; and long after our arrival would he shake his
head incredulously when we would try to assure him it was
poro (pig). He came to me once in great trouble.
A chief came to the house one morning, and was very
troublesome, saying, ' You are useless as a chief, having no
arms ; wherever you go, you are unarmed.' I told them I
was a man of peace, had come to preach peace, but if
necessary should defend myself. I brought out two bottles
— one containing sulphuric acid and the other muriatic
acid. I poured a little of each on the ground close by
him ; the fumes went into his face. Frightened, he started
and ran, I believe, quicker than he ever did before ; he got
to Manuegu's house, and complained of being ill, assuring
them that I had killed him. There was great consternation
and the old man came to inquire and beg of me to remove

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 157
the evil influence. I told him it was all right, that nothing
would happen. He was quite satisfied, and left. A
fortnight afterwards the chief returned, wishing to make
friends. As time wore on it became evident my old friend was
very jealous of the attention shown to another native,
named Quaiani ; and once when the latter came to see us
and, was in the house, Kirikeu rushed down to the beach
and began breaking the canoe. I ran down and dragged
him away ; he was in a terrible passion. We were house
building at the time. I stopped the work, and told the
people unless I was allowed to have my friends come and
see me unmolested I must leave. They insisted on the old
man giving compensation to me ; and knowing well it was
a native custom, when he came with his armlets I accepted
them, saying I was sorry for what had happened, and
hoped we should have no repetition of it. In the afternoon
our whole party went to him on his platform, where he sat
very disconsolate, and presented him with things he liked
much. Now all was right, and we became good friends
again. He accompanied me once down the coast,
introducing me as his son to many of his friends. On the
night of our return he helped to exorcise the wind. One
boy becoming ill, he assured me that he was inwardly
speared by some power !
Sitting enjoying an evening pipe with friends, we were
astonished to hear our old friend beginning one of his
wrathful harangues. Curiosity brought us out to see and
hear him. He was on high pitch, and laying forth with
great energy.
' Kirikeu, what is the matter, and why are you so
angry ? '
' Have you not heard what a Bonorua woman has
done ? '
' No ; what is it ? '

158 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
' She dug up her buried husband to feed her friends who
came to condole with her, she having no pig.'
' And what of that ? it is only what you all do — eat
human flesh.'
' What ? Who can let such be done ? When I die,
my wife might do the same with me. No ; the whole
crowd of women must go, go for ever. There, they can
take these canoes ; let them be gone before morning, or
they will be killed. Will you have them ? Take the whole
crowd, and never return.'
A woman challenged the old man, and marched up and
down in front, telling him to be quiet as long as he ate
human flesh. It looked serious for that woman, as he
threatened to come down to her.
On hearing of Tamate Vaine's (Mrs. Chalmers) death,
the old man cried bitterly.
I left them for a long time, and then returned to find
my good old friend in great trouble : he had lost his only
son — a man thirty-five years old. Instead of painting his
body black, he had got on old clothes given him by the
teacher, but I would certainly have preferred him in his
native mourning. He attended all services in the teacher's
house, and was never absent from services in the chapel.
Everywhere he advised the natives to give up cannibalism,
and spoke on behalf of peace. When some of our teachers
were poisoned at Isiuisu, he advised the teachers on no
account to accept of cooked food from the people, and
be careful who went for water. On recalling the past, I
cannot but feel thankful for so good a friend in those
early days ; may he receive the light, and be made free !
III. Oa of Maiva.
In 1879, visiting Port Moresby from South Cape, I
found several strange natives living with the Motuans, and
on inquiring whence they came was told from Maiva, a

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 159
district in the west, but then without any chart position.
They were a little different from the Motu natives, being
physically larger, with hair not so bushy, and more
respectably dressed, having nearly as much covering as
is necessary. When they came to call on me each had a
piece of native cloth hanging down his back. They
invited me to visit their home, speaking of it as a place
vastly superior to Port Moresby, with plenty of food of
every kind, sago in special abundance. I found the
principal man was named Oa, and that he was a great
chief. He spent some time at Port Moresby securing
armlets and shell beads.
Oa often visited me to have a smoke, and, as the
Motuans were short of food, to get some from my servants.
At home he had several wives, but he had set his heart on
one young damsel here, and have her to take home with
him he must. The young lady did not wish so old a lover,
and her friends were against her 'going so far away. Oa
was about fifty years old, five feet nine inches in height,
strongly built, a very determined expression on his face —
a man who could not easily be turned aside from his
purpose, and, I believe, a most inveterate enemy to those
he disliked. He made up his mind to carry off the girl, and
succeeded in getting her some, miles away, when he was
overtaken by her friends, who with great crying and many
presents so softened Oa's heart that he yielded and gave
her up. He told them that when he returned, if she still
remained unmarried, he would certainly take her to Maiva.
She was sold soon after, and on Oa's next visit she was
safe in her husband's house.
We became excellent friends. He was a great sorcerer,
and much feared in Maiva and the surrounding districts.
All the tribes were ever anxious to make and retain friend
ship with him, and for him the best pigs were reserved and
the best portions of food at all feasts. Although beyond

160 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
the age when men, civilised or savage, as a rule think much
of dress, he was very dressy, and adorned himself with a
strict regard to fashion. I visited Maiva two or three
times, but was never fortunate enough to find him at home.
In 1880 they were building a large dubu, or temple, in
which he took great interest. The following October he
came to see me, and invited me to visit him soon. He
had finished the dubu, and they were now preparing for a
season of retirement. I gave him some presents, and
amongst them an American tomahawk, telling him to pro
ceed on his return, and when the moon was near the hill
tops at sunset I should set out to visit him. He was
greatly delighted, and all along the coast told the natives
I was coming to visit him and Maiva.
About a fortnight after, I followed, but, on getting
to Delena, heard that Oa was dead — that he had died .
suddenly. Some fears were entertained as to our reception,
and we were advised to 'be careful as to what we ate, and
that we should cook our own food. My crew at one time
refused to go with me, and suggested returning or remain
ing at Delena. To the latter I did not object, only telling
them I thought they were cowards. When near starting,
and asking for another crew, my own crew all came, saying
they would go to live or die with me.
On arriving at Maiva I was first led into Oa's house,
and made to sit on a mat spread on the top of his grave.
And then the terrible wailing began, the pulling of the
hair, and cutting of the face and head with sharp shells.
The present I intended for him I placed on his grave and
retired. Many things had been buried with him, and at
the head of his grave were stuck spears, bows and arrows,
and, hanging on them, frontlets, armlets, necklaces, and
large ear-pendants.
Oa was a most vindictive man, and never forgot an
injury, and he was able to hide his intentions under a

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 161
studied friendship. A good friend, a terrible enemy.
Many years ago some Maivans were killed by Boerans on
the small islands on the Barrier Reef, near Boera. Maiva
learned what had become of their lost friends, said nothing,
but pretended true friendship ; and Oa and his people
came regularly to Boera, the latter thinking Maiva knew
nothing of the tragedy. The time of vengeance at last
came. Three trading canoes from Boera that had been in
the Gulf for sago were overtaken when off Cape Possession
by a severe storm, and ran into Maiva. The crews were at
first well received, and advised to take their lakatois well
up the creek. The gale was abating, and they were hoping
soon to get out and away home. Maiva, at Oa's instiga
tion, rose in mass one night and slew 177 ; three escaped
to the bush, and worked their way through bush, swamp,
and river, over hills and dales, travelling at night through
districts inhabited by hostile tribes, to Manumanu, in
Redscar Bay, where they thought they were safe.- Tired,
hungry, and thirsty, one ascended a cocoanut tree, and had
begun to throw the nuts down, when the owner and son
came along, listened to their story, and decided on killing
them. Being friendly with Maiva, the Manumanu felt they
could easily destroy the only informants and witnesses of
the dastard deed. They speared the two on the ground,
ordered the third to come down from the tree, and
despatched him in a like manner. They buried the bodies
close by, and returned to the village saying nothing. Long
after, Boera heard of the deed, while a teacher was with
them, but being too weak and anxious for peace, they said
nothing. Once, I believe, Oa was taxed with the slaughter,
but all he said was, ' My children murdered at Baava are
paid for ; let us keep peace.'
A month before these events took place, the whole side
of a limestone hill near Boera village gave way, falling
with a terrible crash. Men women, and children mourned L

1 62 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
with great mourning, assured that something terrible was
to happen to those trading in the west. Omens innumerable
were seen, but none that caused so much consternation.
It was during my visit that I became acquainted with
Meauri, Oa's eldest son. He could not enter the dubu
where I lodged, because of having touched the dead and
having attended thereon. He used to call me outside and
inquire as to my comforts and wants, telling his friends to
see well to me, and not suffer me to be neglected. He
had already six wives ; and when one left, ten applied to
be received in her place. He lacks stability ; and if ever
he takes first place, it will only be after long and patient
uphill work.
A few months after my visit the large dubu was burnt
down, only two small stumps of posts being left. One
afternoon a woman was weeding near it, and when she had
finished her work she set fire to the weeds. The wind
came up strong from the south-east and blew some of the
fire about, some resting on the dubu, which was soon in a
blaze, and in a few minutes gone.
IV. Koapena of Aroma.
Not many years ago Aroma appeared on the chart for
the first time, and in 1880 the first white man landed, and
visited fourteen villages in the district, and then he and
his party were in great danger of being speared and
clubbed. It was the most desperate plight I have ever
been in in New Guinea, and I have had a few narrow
escapes. Here, in 1882, seven Chinamen were murdered by
the natives, their heads boiled and cleaned, and to-day the
skulls adorn the sacred place of the largest village. In
1 88 1 teachers were placed at Parimata and Maopa, and
the head chief promised to care for them. Long before
their arrival the chief, Koapena, begged for teachers, and
when told that the people might kill them, he laughed

DUBUS AT VAILALA AND MAOPA. — KOAPENA, CHIEF OF MAOPA

1 64 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
at the idea of any interference during his lifetime. In
December, 1884, we visited Aroma, and opened the first
two churches. A goodly number attended the services,
and the feasts afterwards were thoroughly appreciated by
the natives. At Hula and Kerepunu fears were entertained
that we should all be murdered, as a meeting of all the
missionaries and teachers would be a suitable occasion for
the old Aroma spirit to assert itself, and cause the natives
to surround the party and murder all. But remembering
.we were in good keeping, we feared no ill ; and after
spending some time at both places, experiencing great
kindness from the people and much attention — especially
the lady of our "party, who was the first white lady ever
to land in this part of New Guinea — we returned home.
All this, however, merely by way of introduction. I
wish to say something about the chief, Koapena, who is
certainly the finest man in this part of New Guinea — from
Bald Head to East Cape, a distance of about five hundred
miles. How he loves his children, and how they love and
respect him ! It would astonish you to see his attachment
to the missionaries, and how anxious he is to make them
happy. I remember many years ago seeing Garibaldi at
the Crystal Palace, and the one thing that struck me most
was the trustful simplicity of the lion visage. In Koapena
I can see in his peculiar face and in his great frame that
same simplicity — -a terrible enemy, but a friend in time of
need. He is about five feet ten inches high, splendidly
built, having the appearance of a perfect Hercules — every
muscle well defined, his gait erect and truly proud, as if
conscious of power and superiority. I noticed him the
other day, when he stepped out of our boat some distance
from Keppel Point to bathe, preparatory to landing and
meeting his wives and friends. Having finished his ablu
tions, and the boat having got ahead of him, he rushed
ashore, sending the water flying all around. He has on his

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 165
body over fifty tattoo-marks, representing that his people
have killed over fifty men, women, and children. I have
seen many large clubs in the various districts known to us
in New Guinea, but none will match with his ; it is fastened
to the outer post of his house, and is seen by all who enter,
warning intruders to beware. He has an arm that can
wield it, too. Once he said to me, ' Who dare touch, you ?
Should any injure you, or speak ill to you, where can they
go? Will they ascend to heaven, that I cannot find them?
Will they sink underground beyond my reach ? No ; no
one must injure you.'
After the murder of the Chinamen he said, 'All of
your country are my friends, but Sinito (Chinese) never ; I
will kill all who land here.' They certainly did give
the greatest provocation. I said, ' Koapena, Victoria has
many different kinds of children, and she would certainly
be angry if you killed any belonging to her, be they white,
black, or yellow, and you had better beware.' ' Tamate,
I will kill every Chinaman who lands here ; all other
foreigners, white or black, are my friends.'
I hope he is now more agreeably disposed towards the
Celestials, and would even be willing to make friends with
them. He has great influence over the whole Aroma
district, and from all parts receives presents. He is always
referred to in other villages along the coast, when anything
serious is brewing ; and it is generally, ' What does Koapena
say ? ' not, ' What does Aroma say ? '
Commodore Erskine once visited Aroma. Koapena
went on board to see the great chief. He was much struck
with all he saw, but what astonished him most was the
band playing. He shook with fear from head to foot, and,
ashamed of it, sat down. At our opening service of the
Maopa church he gave a short address, something like the
following : ' Now listen ;' it must be peace with us and the
foreigners ; they ' (referring to the teachers) ' have brought

1 66 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
us words of peace : it is time we received them. If any of
you think you can do as you like with the foreigners, that
they are not strong, let me tell you to visit a ship such as
I have seen, and see for yourselves, and you will never again
speak boastfully. I have seen guns, large and small, the
sound of which is too much ; I have seen men in numbers
greater than all Aroma can speak of.' ( He thought they
were different men he saw in different parts of the ship,
and the continual movements of the men astonished him
much.) At one time he was very anxious to visit the Straits or
Cooktown ; it was arranged that he should pay a visit to
the former. The day before leaving, two of his wives
asked to be allowed to visit the mission steamer and see
for themselves where their lord was to be accommodated.
They were taken over the vessel, and at last he was anxious
that they should see the engine-room ; but they would not
leave the deck, satisfied with what they could see from
there. The furnace-door was opened, and they ran back
in great excitement, saying to him, ' You must not go ; see,
these foreigners keep this great fire to burn up all they kill.'
The next morning he came off when ready to start, saying,
' I cannot go ; I have spent a miserable night ; my wives
have done nothing but cry over me all night, and I must
stay. By-and-by, when they become more accustomed to
you, and your wife can stay here with them, we can go and
just do as we like.' He has been to Cooktown since, and
was greatly astonished at all he saw. He is kind and
attentive to the teachers, and helps them in many ways.
A short time ago, when, at Aroma, my boatman, Bob
Samoa, of D'Albertis celebrity, was taken very ill and died,
Koapena showed great sympathy, and insisted on digging
the grave, assisted by two other chiefs, and would allow no
others but themselves to descend into the grave and
receive the body. '

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 167
When walking one day through his cocoanut plantation,
I saw hanging up in various places old cocoanuts with the
husk much torn. Wondering what they could mean, I
inquired of his nephew, who was with me. ' Oh, that is a
warning to cocoanut thieves that any stealing Koapena's
cocoanuts will have their heads served in the same way.'
After the massacre at Kalo, and before Aroma had
heard of it, the Aroma teachers were removed, as we feared
the murdering contagion would spread, as it was said by the
natives on all hands it would. Koapena wondered much
why the teachers should so hurriedly be removed, but on
their leaving he gave orders that no one was to go near
their houses. A fortnight after, I visited him, and had to
land with caution, as we could not tell how we should be
received. We landed at Keppel Point, and were only met by a
few people. Always when landing before, Koapena was
soon there to meet me, but this time my friend was
not to be seen. We walked along the beach to Maopa,
but met no Koapena ; up the sand-hill and over to the
village, and there on his platform with a few old men was
the chief, with his back turned to me, and no word of
welcome. I wondered if our friendship was so soon broken,
although I felt we had done him an injury in not trusting
him ; but as I drew near it was too much for the warm
' savage ' heart, and he turned round and saluted me. ' Oh,
Tamate, how foolish you have been ! but come.' Then,
meeting me, he threw his arms round my neck, saying in a
very sorrowful voice, ' Tamate, you might have trusted me
with your children ; you know well no one belonging to
you will be injured here.' We went to the teacher's house,
and there everything was just as it was left ; a knife and
tomahawk carelessly left in front of the cook-house, with a
few yams, were untouched, and just as when they had been
put down by the teacher's wife, on her hearing of the

1 68 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
murders. When the teachers were returned, Koapena was
greatly delighted.
At a national feast, when numerous pigs were to be slain,
I have seen him dressed in European clothing, in his hand
a branch, surrounded by his wives carrying all his and their
treasures, and twenty men gaudily dressed with feathers of
every description, beating drums, he dancing and moving
backwards, leading the great procession very slowly through
the various narrow streets, followed by the pigs gaily dressed
with leaves, and borne by the young men to the Aroma
sacred place, where human skulls hang, and where only pigs
can be slain.
Remember, he is not a Christian, and makes no
profession of desiring greater blessings than he already
possesses. He only dresses in European clothing on great
occasions, and is perfectly satisfied with the small clothing
he is accustomed to.
Koapena in shirt and trousers is not half the man he is
in his strings. May we not hope that when he receives Christ
as his Light, Saviour, and Friend he will use his influence
for, the advancement of the knowledge of His name? It
may be now he is being led by the hand of Light to light,
and that soon that light will break forth in him.
Such are a few notes on my interesting friend Koa
pena — a savage, it is true, but one whom I love.
V. The Motu Robber-Chief, Aruako.
In all the tribes of New Guinea there are numerous
chiefs, but in ancient times it was not so. They had one,
and one only, whose word was law for war or peace. In
the Motu tribe, the ancestors of Boi Vagi, the late chief of
Port Moresby, who died in the Christian faith in 1886,
were great chiefs, and in his father's time he alone held the
power. Wherever he went he was looked upon as the
ruler of the Motu tribe, and was treated accordingly ; pigs

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES

169

were killed, food was cooked, and large presents given to
him. Since his death the chiefs have never been able to
obtain all his power and influence, although the chief at
Port Moresby is looked upon as the principal chief of the
Motu by the people of that and other tribes. The younger
branch of the family held the power of making raids to
secure property, and the father of the robber-chief was a

A NEW GUINEA DANDY

noted man all along the coast in that particular science.
When he proposed a raid on any particular village, he
always had a large number of daring spirits to listen to his
proposals, and who longed for such work.
The son, Aruako, it seems, took after his father, and as
he grew up to manhood was well educated in that particular
department. When I knew him first he was a wild-looking
savage, with the largest, longest, frizziest head of hair on

170 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
the coast, or that I had seen in New Guinea. He in no
way made any friendly advances to the missionary or
teachers. His expression was sour and repellent, and gave
the impression that he was always angry. He is about
forty-five years of age, well-built, and about five feet eight
inches in height. He has two sisters as wives. He says
that being sisters they do not disturb him by quarrelling,
as the younger always submits to the elder. He would
certainly be an ugly customer to deal with as an enemy,
and some years ago the less any one had to do with him
the better. He used to punish the slightest insult to
himself or his friends, at once and satisfactorily, not by
taking life, but by robbery.
The arrival of the teachers, and Boi Vagi's becoming
their friend, rather spoiled Aruako's vocation, and he
settled down in a sulky manner to watch the changes that
might take place. To make things worse, he was a man
who believed much in witchcraft, and was full of super
stition, the kind of man that any one would find difficult
to win over. He says he never robbed without a cause,
and never killed in his robbing raids. Once, when at
Manumanu with other canoes returning from Kabadi,
they were waiting until night to .get along the coast.
He saw that the people of Manumanu had been fishing,
and were very successful. He expected to get some fish
from his friends, but after waiting some time and no dish of
fish appearing, he went up to the village and asked for a
few cooked fish. One of the chiefs said, ' Yes ; wait on your
canoes.' He returned and waited, but no one came near
them. It was too much ; he could wait no longer, and he
called those in the other canoes to come with him and help
themselves. They helped themselves so freely to every
thing that some of their canoes came near sinking. The
Manumanuans said nothing, and dared not resist ; and
Aruako says they have a lively recollection of it to the

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 171
present day, for never again was he or any other of his
tribe insulted by them in like manner.
There is a great deal of magnanimity amongst savages.
A Boera man was killed at Naara, and Aruako took up
the quarrel. Naara had always been friendly with the
Motuans, and it was not meant to make them enemies now.
A large party of young men were got together, and at night
surrounded the village. At daybreak they entered, telling
the chiefs and people not to be afraid, that no one would
be hurt if they did not resist, but they had come to help
themselves. They were very free with the Naara goods,
and when each had enough to carry and were going away,
the chief said :
' Stay and part friends ; you will not return to kill.'
' Certainly not ; it is finished.'
' Then here, accept of our hospitality.'
They did remain, each by his stuff, and had a glorious
feast of pig and yam, then started for the coast, and
returned home quite elated.
Another time, they were returning from Redscar Bay,
in company with many other canoes, and on arriving at
Boera they found the well where they usually drew water
when on journeys filled with refuse. This was reported
by the women of the party, and the chief went and saw
for himself. He was full of wrath, and at once called on
the others to be up and doing — to enter the village and
help themselves. This was soon done, and their booty was
abundant. The Boerans submitted, and acknowledged
that their children were to blame. He told them to teach
their children that everything belonged to Motu, in order
that they might never again do the like. It never happened
again. What Motumotu is now, or has been, on the coast,
so Motu was in former days. On one occasion he said to
me, ' You remember what I told you, I never robbed with
out cause. We could stand no insult of any kind ; we

172 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
knew we were the strongest tribe, and were ever feared ;
and wherever we went everybody treated us well, so- as to
keep friends with us.'
His cousin, who is married at Manumanu, hearing they
had plenty of sago at Port Moresby, came to her cousins to
get some, and they assisted her freely. She returned the
following day with great gladness, until she arrived at
Boera, where a number of Hula canoes were assembled.
Two came out to meet her, and, on seeing the sago, helped
themselves, she crying bitterly, and saying, ' I am Aruako's
cousin, and it was he and the others who gave me the sago.'
They replied, ' Shut up ! who is Aruako, and who is afraid
of him ? ' When they had taken all, they left her to pro
ceed with an empty canoe. It was more than she could do,
and she returned to Borebada, where her sister was living,
and told her tale. The sister at once started, and arrived
at Port Moresby in the evening. She went straight to
Boi Vagi's house, and on the platform outside began : ' Yes,
here you all are quietly at home, when others are suffering ;
tears are falling, which I suppose none of you care anything
about' She went on in this strain for some time, and
would give no explanation of what she meant. Aruako,
hearing her from his house, came out and approached
towards the platform. On seeing him she addressed him
pointedly, saying, ' Here, take my rami, give me your sihi ;
I'll play the man, you the woman.' Several times she said
this. He was impatient, and grew angry, and demanded
an explanation. Seeing that she was successful in rousing
him and others, she then said :
' You gave sago to my sister, your cousin.'
' Yes ; where is it ? '
' Other birds ate it ; she will never taste it, though she
is alive and in my house.'
' Who dared touch her or it ? '
' Hula has robbed her of everything.'

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 173
Canoes were got ready, and away they went for Boera.
On arriving at Borebada they met the people attempting
to get away, but, on seeing the Motuans, they came together.
As the Motu canoes drew near, some shouted, ' We had
nothing to do with it ; those canoes in the centre did it.'
All were ordered to clear away and leave the centre ones
alone. Aruako stood in his canoe, which was the first to
approach. Renaki, the head Hula, chief, was sitting on one
of the canoes. Aruako made straight for that one, leaped
on board, and with his thick stick dealt Renaki a hard blow
across the back that pitched him into the sea. The canoes
were seized, and everything taken, including all the sago.
He wanted to kill Renaki, but his friends would not have
that. They considered they had done enough and would
leave. The Borebada people assembled to assist Hula, but
were told if they spoke a word even they would be robbed
and every house burned to the ground. On leaving, Aruako
took Renaki's best canoe ; and the latter, having recovered,
got into it, crying bitterly, and saying, ' Oh, take everything,
everything, but leave me this:' He was helped by others,
and they pulled the fine new canoe away with Renaki still
in it. The chief continuing to cry, Aruako turned round
and said, ' Finish him off, and pitch him into the sea ! ' and
acting accordingly, he seized his stick and was making for
him when he was prevented by others. They closed in
shore, and Renaki had to land. On landing he was told
that it was all right again, and they must be friends, but
that they had brought it upon themselves. He was
presented with a large bundle of spears, and told to go
quietly away. Long after, Aruako went to Hula and
made friends with Renaki.
Such was our friend Aruako on the arrival of the
teachers. Some time after Mr. Murray (of whom they still
speak as an old friend) left, Aruako attempted to burn his
house because he had no share in presents, and Boi Vagi

174 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
somehow or other was left out. He did not wish the
teachers to remain, and would rather they left. A few years
ago he began attending services, and soon took an intelligent
interest in them, which grew into a desire to change his
mode of life. He is now a reformed man. His fierceness
of expression has gone, the determined look remains. He
is a man of will seeking to do right. He has become an
active preacher of Christianity.
VI. Valina Kina, or ' Saul ' of Kalo.
On my first visits to Kerepunu, and before I visited
Kalo, I had often seen a fine strapping youth marching
about with an air of great superiority, and on inquiring who
he was, I was told he was from Kalo. The first time I saw
him to real advantage was at the Kerepuna harvest feast of
thanksgiving, when he came dressed in a manner well
becoming him, in shell and feather ornaments, with long
streamers of bleached pandanus leaves hanging down his
back. There were many natives from other places, one and
all gorgeously dressed, and admired by all the lookers-on ;
but, although not dressed to kill, as some were, Valina was
the most admired. With his white head-dress of cockatoo
feathers he stood above his fellows, and with his drum in
hand and gracefully moving about in the dance, with a
couple of the best-looking damsels by his side, and his
altogether aristocratic appearance, he was certainly worth
noticing. Even then many were jealous of the notice taken
of him, jealous of his prowess, and jealous of his power
over the fair sex.
He was a brave youth, with several warrior marks
tattooed on his back. He was then unmarried, and the
difficulty would have been for him to select from the many
who flocked around him, had the selection been left to him,
but parents and friends had that business on hand. We
soon became friends, and our friendship remained unbroken

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 175
up to his death. When I placed the first teacher at Kalo,
Valina took little interest in him or his teaching, being
occupied in what was to him the more congenial occu
pations of dancing and fighting. He was then looked
upon as the greatest warrior they had, and was feared by
all the tribes not on friendly terms with Kalo. He soon
after married, and settled down a little more to home
duties ; still, he was ever to the front in feasting and dancing
time. When I placed their teacher, we remained two days
at Kalo, and saw much of him. H.M.S. Sappho was then
at Kerepunu, and the captain and a few of the officers came
to Kalo, and all were much interested in Saul, as we now
called him, on account of his height. They taught him to
sing an English-Chinese song, and long afterwards when
we met he would begin with ' Laugh Kai ha ! ' We had
some leaping ; but when Saul stepped to the front and
easily walked over our highest mark, the interest died out,
and we thought it time to give it up.
I am not aware he ever attended school or services ;
still, he was always friendly, and showed no opposition.
A year or two before, the Kalo massacre, the Kalo
natives went inland to fight with Quiapo, a hill tribe.
Saul was not interested in the attack, and went somewhere
else to hunt wallaby. In the afternoon word was brought
to him that his friends were surrounded, and likely to get
the worst of. the fight. He at once armed and started,
broke through the cordon to his friends, and taking the
lead, fought so desperately that he brought them all safely
back, carrying with him to the village one head, for which
he was tattooed and highly honoured by the people. The
custom on such occasions is to drag the head round and
through the village, casting indignity upon it, and in song
praising the brave who secured it. The head is then taken
and cooked until the skull can be cleaned, when it is fixed
on their sacred place. According to the rank of the slain,

176 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
the feasting continues at short intervals for several months ;
if a man of no note, a woman, or a child, the feasting is
soon over.
Another engagement with Quaipo took place, in which
the chief's daughter and a warrior were killed, and their
heads carried in triumph into Kalo. The old chief was
inconsolable for his daughter, and vowed that nothing
would satisfy him but the head of Saul ; but as Quaipo
had killed several Kalo natives it was thought advisable to
make peace — Kalo supposed abiding peace, but Maopoa,
the Quaipo chief, only intended it to last until opportunity
offered to gain his object. During this time of apparent
friendship Saul had many skirmishes with other tribes,
and always came out scatheless. It was during this time
that the Wolverene visited New Guinea, to punish the
massacre at Kalo. After identifying the body as that of
the dead chief who was the instigator of the massacre, and
who assisted in it, Saul came on board the warship, and
was well received by the commodore. At that time it was
thought and hoped he would become chief, but he cared
nothing for the position. The commodore gave him
presents, and handed over to him two natives who were
made prisoners on the morning of the attack. He bore
himself well, and although it must have been difficult for
him to conceal his feelings he did not show the least fear
or excitement. He told me he was glad Kalo was
punished, and it was good for Kalo that the chief Quaipo
had been shot — that it would be peace truly, and foreigners
need not now fear. He was much astonished at the
clemency shown to his people by the commodore, and
said, ' Only a great chief and powerful people could act so.'
Hearing I was at Hula a few months after the Wolverene
visited them, he came over, bringing with him his cousin
Kulu, the fighting chief, with a present of food. He
accompanied me in the boat to Kerepunu, and then told

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 177
me the story of the massacre, and of the feeling in Kalo
of the justice and mercy of the punishment, and the fear
amongst the people that it was not all over yet. I assured
him it was true and lasting peace and friendship with us
so long as they remained friendly to foreigners. He
returned home and narrated the story of our interview, and

A HULA GIRL

told the people he believed all he was told, and trusted the
word of the ' white man.' From that time he had several
skirmishes with outsiders, and seemed pleased to have a
fight when others quarrelled, but never, so far as I am
aware, stirring up strife himself. He had long been
persistent to have another teacher, and when at length he
was told another was appointed, he returned with joy to
M

178 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
his home to cheer the hearts of all the Kalo natives. We
appointed Tau and his wife, both Rarotongans, and during
the time they were at Hula waiting for the completion of
their house many were the visits made to them. They
were located, and one of their best friends was Saul, who
promised to see they were ' never hungry, and that no one
should molest them ; ' but for school and services he had
no taste. A few weeks after leaving Tau and his wife at Kalo,
Saul and a few others went wallaby hunting, and joined a
party of Kerepunu natives who were planting between
Hood Lagoon and the Quaipo Hills. When the wind had
increased they set fire to the grass, and were soon scattered
in various directions, looking out for their prey. They had
not been hunting long when they saw a few hill natives,
and the Kerepunuans shouted to the Kalo natives to run,
as the Quaipo natives were in force and hidden in the long
grass. All started, and soon left the hunting-ground far
behind them ; but Saul and his cousin, being nearest to
the enemy, and not feeling inclined to run, the former
turned to the Kerepunuans and said, ' No, I shall not run,
but fight ; and carry back with me two heads.' He and
his cousin were soon surrounded. They fought splendidly,
it is said, Saul holding his own well against the force of
the enemy, who determined, if possible, to have him whom
they feared so terribly. He broke through the cordon
with a spear hanging to his thigh, which he pulled out and
threw back at his enemies. He was going to run, when he
heard his cousin call, ' Will you leave me here to be killed
alone ? ' and he fought his way back to his side, and for
long kept off the enemy. At length, speared in the chest
and several other places, he fell with his cousin, and both
died near each other. On his falling, Maopoa, the Quaipo
chief, rushed in, and with his feathered bamboo knife cut
his head off, then his thumbs, and last of all the marks he

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 179
had on his body. His cousin's head was also cut off, and
both were dragged to the hills to be defiled, spat upon,
trampled on, and finally boiled, in order that the clean
skulls might be fixed on the sacred place — an offering to
the spirit that assisted them so signally that day in securing
their hated foe. The headless and mutilated bodies were
brought afterwards into Kalo, and buried with much
sincere grief, loud wailing, tearing of hair, and scratching
of faces until blood flowed copiously, for it was to Kalo a
day of woe indeed ; she had lost her greatest fighter, the
man most feared by surrounding tribes.
I arrived at Kalo the following week, to find all stricken,
all courage gone, and a great fear of the mountain tribes.
I visited Saul's grave, and gave my small present and
returned to meet the chiefs. Their one hope was to get
the white men to assist them, and they begged hard for it ;
but I assured them it was useless, as no white man could
interfere in their quarrels, at all events to avenge. They
admitted they could do little fighting in the hills, and
feared to go far beyond the Kemp Welch River.
They were not averse to peace, if it could be brought
about in any way so as not to degrade them before the
other tribes. I knew they were to blame, and, according
to native custom, Quaipo had only done right, and would
probably now be willing to make a lasting peace. Kalo
would like me to say decidedly they must remain quiet,
and on no account seek payment for Saul in murdering
others ; but to do so at once would never do, as Saul was
my friend, and thought much of by the people, and to seem
to pass his death over lightly would look to many as if I
had little regard for friendship, and cared little about the
death of my friends, and placed little value on human life.
So I had to be cautious, and during my stay put off the
decision, on the ground that it would not do to be pre
cipitate, and it would be useless for them to go to the hills.

180 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
At Kerepunu I could act -more freely, have more time,
and bring the Kerepunu influence to bear on Kalo. At
Kerepunu I met the chiefs, and they strongly advised
peace, seeing the Kalo people were to blame, and Quaipo
only paid old debts.
I found that Kulu, the fighting chief at Kalo, had for
many years been unfriendly with Kiniope, the principal
chief of Kerepunu, and I also knew that the former held
strong feelings against Kerepunu for their not helping
Saul — they even went so far as to say that Kerepunu
enticed him to the hunt, having previously arranged with
Quaipo. To bring, therefore, Kulu and Kila, sons of the
chief who was shot at the time of the Wolverene's visit, and
the Kerepunu chiefs together would be very good work.
I sent to Kalo for the two to come to Kerepunu, and I also
despatched a messenger to Quaipo to my old acquaintance
Maopoa to come in the following day, or, if he preferred
it, I would go to the hills, but only if he was willing for peace.
I gave the Quaipo messenger a knife and a stick of tobacco
for the chief, that he might see I was really at Kerepunu,
and no trap had been laid for him.
On the Sunday forenoon the Kalo chiefs, with a
number of followers, came in, met the Kerepunu chiefs and
people in my presence, had a long and animated talk, and
finally made friends. Kerepunu offered to assist me in
making peace with Quaipo, and agreed that to continue
fighting would be of little use. The Kalo natives and chiefs
seemed pleased ; and, I believe, were glad of the oppor
tunity of making peace, as they could say it was Tamate
who did it. It would be peace with honour, and, they
would add, they have now a teacher, and they wish for
nothing but peace. We had Sabbath school and afternoon
service together. When at the latter the Quaipo mes
senger returned, and I could see that his news was unsatis
factory, from the strange, anxious look on the Kalo faces

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 181
as the messenger sat down beside them and told the result
of his visit to Maopoa. When the service was concluded
we all retired to the Mission House, where the messenger
reported something near to the following : ' I return your
knife and tobacco, as Maopoa says he cannot now accept
them. He cannot come to Kerepunu, as the spirit would
be displeased, seeing it is his sacred time after so successful
a fight. He is now sacred, and must remain so for some
time, because his hands are stained with blood. He will
not again seek to fight, and says I am to tell you that he
has already put aside his spear and shield. You are not to
go in now, but wait until this moon now beginning in the
west is gone, and another comes, and then he will come to
see you here, and bring you back with him.' The Kerepunu
natives said it was satisfactory- ; the Kalo natives thought
otherwise, and at once departed.
VII. Lohia Maraga of Taburi.
Towards the end of August 1879 I had been travelling
for a whole week with a party over new country and
carrying our own swag, when we rested for the Sunday at
a village, Keninumu, on the top of the Vetura Range. On
Monday morning, September 1, we started again, deter
mined to spend another week travelling eastward at the
back of the Astrolabe. It was about mid-day, the sun was
hot, and we were somewhat tired when we neared the
village of Chokinumu. At the cross-roads near the village
we came upon a posse of natives, who on seeing us were
so frightened that they ran for the bush, leaving their spears
and clubs behind. They had never before seen a white
man, and the apparition was too much for them. They
must have signalled to the village, for as we came up to it
men, women, and children were running away, and the
more we called, the quicker they ran. The village com-

182 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
prised about a dozen houses built on a rock, with a very
pretty background of hills studded with trees.
We were hungry and anxious to cook some food ; but,
before beginning operations, we thought it safer to meet
some of the natives, tell them who we were, and see how
they would take it. We were sitting on our swags smoking,
when one man appeared with his lime calabash and
chewing betel nut. We called on him to come and hear
what we had to say. Keua, old Granny, spoke to him,
and on seeing her he gained more confidence and came up
close to us. When he heard who we were, he was delighted,
and at once gave a long, loud, peculiar ' cooey,' which
brought his wife and some others back. He had often
heard of me and of white men, but had never before seen
any. Now he was glad that the first foreigners he met
were friends. He told us his name was Lohia Maraga,
and that he would be our friend. His wife was soon
cooking yams, and those who returned with them were
away getting sugar-cane. It was not long before we were
feasting like lords.
Anxious to get on further, if possible to Makapili — a
district that seemed to be at enmity with all parties — we
told Lohia that we must be going, and asked him to send
one of his youths to show us the track. He had made up
his mind that we were to remain with him for some time ;
but I told him we had been so long inland that our time
for returning to the coast was near, and I was anxious
to see as much as possible in the allotted time. Of course
we did not know where any of the places were, nor how
long it might take to reach them. I insisted on going.
Then he and his wife had a long conversation ; after which
he told us, through Granny, that they would accompany
us, and some of their youths would go part of the way and
carry our swags — at which I felt happy and much relieved.
Lohia told us that for a long time the Taburians, his tribe,

1 84 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
and the Makapilians had been at enmity ; and although
he and Kunia, the chief of Makapili, were near relatives,
they had not met for years ; but when war parties went
out, he always gave them strict injunctions not to harm
the old man, whom he hoped to meet some day. Some
time had elapsed since they had had any fighting, but no
formal peace had been made, and no advances in that
direction had begun on either side. However, he and his
wife, a Makapilian, would risk a meeting, and bringing
them such important personages, he was almost sure that
no harm would come to them ; and as we tried everywhere
to make peace among the tribes, now would be a
splendid opportunity to meet the old man and arrange for
peace. Lohia's wife picked up my swag, Lohia another's, and
a few youths the others. We walked for some hours until
we arrived at a stream which, we were told, divided the
Taburi and Makapilian districts. Just beyond was a large
village on a table-rock, with a stockade all round it, but
it was deserted. Not long before, the Sogerians, a tribe
further in towards the Owen Stanley Range, attacked them
at night and killed several of them. We trudged on along
spurs of the Astrolabe until we came to another small
stream, close by which several men were burning grass, and
who commenced to run away when Lohia called to them ;
they stood for a few minutes, and then disappeared. We
sat on large stones in the stream, and presently an old man,
unattended, appeared. Lohia rose hastily, and, crying
bitterly, went to meet him. They embraced, and both sat
down, and with arms round each other and heads together
cried long and loud. When they had finished, the old man,
Kunia by name, came to Lohia's wife and embraced her.
She then seized him round the knees and wept bitterly, at
times chanting, and then breaking out into a long, loud
wail.

SOME NEW GUINEA CELEBRITIES 185
Old Kunia then came and sat down beside us, telling
us, as if ashamed of his weakness, that years had gone
since he had seen Lohia, and he knew he was then alive
because of the former's thoughtfulness,- and that was why
he cried ; his stomach was full of feeling, and he could not
help himself. After some time the old man ' cooeyed,' and
some younger ones came, picked up our swags, and
marched off. Lohia and his wife proposed returning, but
I objected, and Kunia said they need not fear ; only over
his body could they be injured. At sunset we reached the
half-finished village ; but, preferring to camp by ourselves,
we ascended one of .the neighbouring spurs and there
pitched our tent. Lohia kept close by us all the time, and
heartily rejoiced when the day came for our return to his
village. He had arranged for peace, which was afterwards
concluded. We remained at Chokinumu for a few days, visiting
about, and during that time received great kindness from
Lohia and his friends, the former going everywhere with
us. Anxious to visit Janara and Epakari, he told us he
would lead us to the mountain top and then show us the
way. He and his lads accompanied us, and when on the
top of the Astrolabe he pointed out these districts to us.
After this we were picking up our swags, having bade them
adieu, when he suddenly rose and, with tears in his eyes
said, ' No, I cannot leave you — I must see you to Epakari.'
He then ordered his boys to pick up the swags and proceed.
Of this we were glad, as it was a long day's tramp. The
following day he kept close by us, although we had more
carriers than we required. On the following Saturday we
arrived at Epakari, and then again bade him farewell, he
telling us that he was now off for home. Before going he
got us splendid quarters, and gave such instructions that
nothing seemed too good for us. On the Sunday after
breakfast, when we were having a short service, fancy our

1 86 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
astonishment to see our good friend appear! He told
Granny they had left at daylight and gone a long way,
when they felt such a desire to be with us that they
returned, and would not leave us until they saw us fairly
on our way to our main camp ; and they kept their
word.

i87

CHAPTER IX
Sketches of New Guinea Life
I. Famine Time and a Feast
Many think of New Guinea as a land flowing with gold,
milk, and honey, where the inhabitant never hungers, never
knows what want is, and where daily the three meals are
spread. How different is the reality to all this — how often
is hunger known, and for many days little is ound between
the teeth ! There are often seasons when there is the
greatest difficulty to keep death by starvation from the
home. It may have been in such a season that smallpox,
sixteen or seventeen years ago, swept along the coast, and
cut down the people in hundreds, wiping out whole families,
dead bodies lying about to be devoured by pigs, no one
being strong enough to bury them ; others were put into
canoes and sent off to sea. In some homes both parents
were dead, and only little children were left to care for one
another. In Other homes infants were left all alone ; father
mother, brothers, and sisters all dead. God only knows
how any survived.
In a season when food was scarce, the severity of the
epidemic would be all the greater. Although more
frequent in the Port Moresby district, yet these famine
seasons are not confined to it, but extend all along the
peninsula to East Cape, and I have met with famine inland
also. In 1880 I left Kerepunu in our small dingy, accom
panied by Anederea, Taria, and a Kerepunu native, and

1 88 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
pulled up through the Hood Lagoon into a large salt-water
creek, marked on the chart as the Dundee River. Pulling
up this creek for some miles, we left our boat and tramped
away through swamps to the hills, the eastern part of the
Macgillivray Range. We ascended over a thousand feet,
when we came to villages scattered over the top. We had
a splendid view from our position, stretching far east and
west. At first we saw but few natives, and these in a poor
condition. When we came to the second, third, and fourth
villages, the miserable condition of the people was more
evident. The pictures of famines in Persia and India
would well suit what I saw in Animarupu. Little children
scarcely able to crawl, and with little or no flesh on their
bones ; men and women like skeletons lying about, unable
to work ; a few stronger women in the gulleys close by,
digging for any kind of roots they might be fortunate
enough to find ; many in the houses ill and unable to come
out. Ah ! how I did pity them, and wished much I could
help them ; but they were a long way from the coast, and
I was a long, long way from home, where I could have got
them rice and arrowroot.
They had a long dry season ; month after month
passed and not a drop of rain fell, their taro all died, and
the sugar-cane refused to stretch ; the banana plants died
from the top downwards, as the multitudinous cells dried
up, and long ago most of their wild yams had been dug
and consumed, and the few that might still be found
required stronger women than those we saw to find them.
To add to the distress of a dry season, they were at enmity
with Aroma, and dare not go down to the .valleys. The
week before we arrived, some, seeking food on the low
ground, were attacked by Maopa natives and all killed.
Nor were the Aroma natives the only ones they had to
fear ; the strong, light-coloured, muscular natives of Quaipo,
on the hills to the west, caused them much trouble, and

¥*vM^?^^&*$$$

IN BERTHA LAGOON — CLOUDY MOUNTAIN IN THE DISTANCE

190 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
occasionally killed a few of them. A more harassed tribe,
and one more afflicted, I have not seen.
Soon after our visit rain fell in abundance, their sugar
cane soon shot up, and they were saved. I sent word to
Quaipo to be friendly with them, and I afterwards heard
peace had been made. When I became well known in
Aroma and very friendly with Koapena, I begged of them
to leave my Animarupu friends alone ; and since then they
have visited the coast, and Koapena and others have been
into their villages.
Sometimes the natives at Port Moresby are very badly
off, and men, women, and children may be seen sitting
about looking very haggard, and with their skin hanging
loosely. Then, services and schools are ill attended, and
when anything is said the reply is, ' Who can go to school or
church when so hungry ? ' During these seasons they make
excursions along the coast in quest of food. In former
days, before the mission was started, it was on such occa
sions that raids were made on the villages along the coast ;
men took what they could, and, if opposed, murdered those
attempting to resist. When it was known that the
Hanuabada natives were out foraging, or about to go out,
the people of the villages to be passed used to pack up and
fly, living in the bush until it was known that the marauders
had returned.
They live much on the fruit of the mangrove, which is
prepared by first cooking, then peeling and cutting up fine,
putting in a net bag, and hanging on a pole in the sea for
some days and nights ; it is again cooked, and when ready
looks like a pudding, and is eaten with cocoanut sauce.
The breadfruit is also much used, and prepared in the same
way. When in Thursday Island, I got half a ton of rice, and
on my return, finding the people very badly off, I made
work in order to give them food. One week it was blowing

SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE 191
hard for some time, and they were not able to go west
to Lealea or Manumanu for the mangrove fruit. On the
Sunday I walked through the village, and found children
lying down in the sun, and many crying. The noise and
laugh were gone ; childhood's jollity disappeared before
the qualms of hunger. I returned to the house and asked
my good friends Ruatoka and his wife to assist. They
entered heartily into my proposition, and so did all the
girls and old women. It was a sight not quite Sunday-
looking, perhaps — wood-breaking, roaring fires, rice-wash
ing, pots with rice placed on fires, and soon boiling.
' Now, my lad,' to our bell-boy, ' go and ring your bell
through the village, and bring up every girl and boy, that
they may have a good feed of rice.' They came in swarms,
and sat down looking happier certainly. They soon cleared
off all we had cooked. Begin again, cook as much more,
and again it is finished. On pots again, and now the
children sing, and are more noisy ; soon the large tin dishes
are again before them, but this time they cannot eat all, so
I tell them I am glad, and they must take the remainder
to their homes. That Sunday afternoon was a rather noisy
one, but I do not know that I could have, felt happier than
when I saw those dear bairns quite satisfied and heard
their loud, hearty laughing. Since then many a hungry
stomach has been satisfied at the mission premises. Lest
it should be thought we give it only to our adherents, I beg
to state we give it to all, and make no stipulations about
attending services or school.
From Yule Island in the west to East Cape in the east,
with a few exceptions, there are many seasons when there
is not much more food to be had than suffices to keep soul
and body together. The exceptions are Naara, Kabadi,
Hula peninsula, including Kalo and part of Aroma ; and
even in these in an over-dry season, when the drought
has been long, there has not been too much food. The

192 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
introduction of pumpkins, melons, and papao apples has
been a great blessing. Once, when at Yule, the natives had
no other food but pumpkin, and every morning and evening
large pots of that vegetable might be seen boiling inside
their houses ; they told me that it saved them, as they knew
not what they should have done without it.
We are introducing various kinds of peas, and hope
soon to have the guava flourishing, so that in future hunger
will not be so often felt. Another great help to Port
Moresby, Boera, Porobada, Tatana, Pari, and Vapukori is
Hula. When the teacher Taria first landed, the Hulans
had no plantations, and lived entirely on food brought
from Kalo, Papaka, and Kamali, with the fish they caught.
Fishing was their only source of supply. Taria secured a
piece of land, and planted it with sweet potatoes, yams, and
sugar-cane. The soil being good, he soon had returns.
The Hulans perceived it would be a good thing to do
as Taria had done, and planted small plantations ; then,
finding they could sell their food, they planted larger ones,
until now they all have splendid plantations, and in the
season large quantities of food, which they sell along
the coast, and when out of season they trade largely in
cocoanuts. As the people receive Christianity and foreign pro
ducts are introduced, famines will disappear and plenty
abound. II. Kerepunu Feasts and Burials.
May in all the Christianised islands of the Pacific is the
one month of the year for great feasting ; then the tribes
assemble with great rejoicing, eat and are merry, and give
of their substance to help on the great work of Christian
missions. In heathen lands also, the same month is a great
time for feastings and rejoicing. On Rarotonga, where I

SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE 193
spent ten years, it was the custom of the natives in heathen
times to hold their greatest feasts in that month, when their
best food was cooked and their finest pigs killed.
On coming to New Guinea, I found in Hood Bay the
same custom in the same month, and twice have I been
present at the May feast of Kerepunu. Inland and coast
tribes assemble ; for days they are coming, and it often
happens on the last day fighting takes place, and many are
killed. Sometimes a weak tribe is attacked, to pay off an
old score that they were led to believe they had made
peace for by the gift of toeas (armlets), tomahawks, spears,
and pigs. A few years ago at Kalo two men of an inland
tribe came to a feast. On the afternoon of the last day,
when returning home, they were attacked. One was killed,
a poor old man not able to run ; the other, a younger man,
got into the bush and away.
But of all the feasts I have attended in New Guinea,
none was so interesting as this at Kerepunu. The great
work begins by getting trees from fifty feet to seventy feet
high ; small superfluous branches are cut off, the larger
ones are left. These trees are brought into the principal
village and planted upright on both sides of the street ;
they are then hung with bananas and cocoanuts from top
to bottom, so thickly that no wood is seen. As they are
set deep in the ground, there is no fear of their falling.
Some days before the grand day, the dancing begins, and
is carried on from sunset to sunrise without intermission,
and during the day at various times. During that time,
friends arriving are entertained by their own special friends.
All are elegantly dressed. For head-dresses the white
feather predominates, and at Kerepunu, so that they may
always have a good supply of white feathers, cockatoos are
kept, and may be seen in front of nearly every house.
Before the feast-time these poor cockatoos are plucked, and
made to look very wretched indeed. The feathers are
N

194 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
fastened on to the end of large combs, and when stuck in
their hair the white bouquets look well.
At last the morning comes — the morning of the
greatest day of the year to them. Long before daybreak
the loud screaming of pigs is heard from all quarters, and
some of the very fine pigs, weighing three and four
hundredweight, that were running about yesterday, are
already fast and on the poles. After sunrise, all the pigs
appointed for this day's feast are ready to be carried into
the sacred place, where they will be speared by the two men
who alone in all Kerepunu may do that work, and whose
ancestors have done it from of old. The sacred place is at
the back of the village, and consists only of two platforms
on a swamp, with a long pole in front. Formerly there
was a house, in which a priest lived, to whom all pigs were
brought to be killed, but of late the house has fallen into
disuse. A story is told of one of these priests feeding
tabooed pigs. He wore his white bouquet of feathers ; one
of the pigs, mistaking it for cocoanut, tried to get it, and
bit his nose off ! Since then the white feathers have not
been worn on the sacred place.
Food is now being collected on the platform, and
betel nuts in abundance. Youths, whose years range from
twelve to twenty-six, handsomely dressed and feeling
important, wend their way inland with the crowd. The
pigs are carried one after another, and placed in rows in
front, just under the long pole on which bananas are hung.
The crowd increases, but keeps at a distance. On my first
visit I was not allowed nearer than fifty yards ; on my
second I had a good position about twenty yards off. The
youths, to the number of twenty-two, sat on the lower
platform ; eleven women, sisters of chiefs, ranged themselves
in front, holding drums ; and all the chiefs with drums
stood near. On no head was there a white feather, but
those on the platform wore a profusion of many-coloured

YOUTHS' DUBU -

N 2

196 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
feathers. The women strike up, beating their drums and
chanting in a very low, pleasant key ; all the time their
heads are bent, never once looking up. When this is finished
the youths leave the platform, split open a few old cocoa-
nuts, take out the meat, and each one strings a piece and
proceeds to tie it on the heads of the women, the piece
of cocoanut looking like a frontlet. When finished, the
women again beat their drums and chant in the same
manner, all the chiefs and those on the platform standing.
When this is over, the same youths leave the platform and
take eleven bunches of bananas from the long pole in front
and hang one on each woman's shoulder, when they return,
and all join in singing.
The women then have finished their part, and now
the chiefs slowly march round the platforms and pigs,
beating their drums and reciting. The two men who
have to kill the pigs advance close to them, and with
blunted spears begin sticking. The pigs are hanging feet
up, and the spear enters just inside the left fore leg. The
work of sticking takes some time, being very slowly done,
the chiefs surrounding the place until it is finished. Two
pigs are reserved. Two young men descend from the
platform and sit on improvised chairs made over the two
pigs ; a number of men take hold of the poles attached to
these chairs and lift pig and youth at once. The chiefs
and their sisters beat their drums ; all on the platform
stand up, and all turn to the east, chanting in a more lively
manner ; they then turn to the west, beating drums and
chanting as before, and the same is done to the north and
south. The two youths are now initiated, and have taken
the place of their fathers, who died during the year, and
will now be permitted to give food and pigs on such an
occasion as this. They ascend the platform, and the pigs
are placed in front again : the chiefs walk round as before,
and both the pigs are stuck. During this last performance

SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE 197
the food on the platform beside the youths is divided, half
remaining and half being placed on the higher platform.
Next, eleven men ascend the higher platform, eleven
remaining on the lower ; the chiefs and women in front
beat the drums and chant a lively strain, those on the
platforms holding in each hand a yam and bunches of
betel nuts. All turn to the east. The chanting is much
more lively, and all appear more joyful. Then they turn
to the west, and in the same manner to the north and
south. The crowd now becomes excited, and those who have
brought the little hand-nets try to get in front. From
both platforms the food is scattered to the crowd, and
the desire to possess some of it must indeed be great if the
noise and excitement are any evidence. The pigs are now
removed, each young man taking his own, to the villages,
when they are divided amongst the families and friends,
and the bananas and cocoanuts are taken down from the
high scaffolding and distributed to the visitors. I may
mention that here, and nowhere else, can pigs be killed in
Kerepunu, and by none but Kerepunuans.
The skulls hanging on the long pole in front of the
platforms are heads of murdered natives. One was lately
brought by the natives of Hula. Formerly there was no
village at Hood Point, all the Hula natives lived at Kere
punu irt the fishing village, and were the fishers. The
Kerepunuans interfered with their women, and quarrelling,
they had to leave. Having no sacred place at. New Hula,
they bring in the heads of those murdered by them to
Kerepunu. When recently fighting with Babaga, from the
many they killed they brought one head to the opposite
side of the mouth of the Hood Lagoon, and called on the
Kerepunuans. It seems that only one man can cross and
receive the head. He crossed, got the head, and returned
to the village, the Hula natives returning home. He

193 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
fastens a string to the hair, and when near to the beach
throws the head ashore. The string is seized, and the
head is dragged through the various streets of the different
villages. Every indignity possible is heaped on that head.
It is kicked, spat upon, and the mouth is filled with filth.
When finished, friends or relatives of the murdered man,
some of whom are certain to be living at Kerepunu, come
and pick up the head, place it on their platform, and
mourn over it with loud lamentations. In about an hour
it is again given to the populace, who treat it as before for
some time, when the man who received it from the Hulans
takes it up and home, where he boils it, to remove all the
flesh. When clean, he places it on the sacred place.
The day is spent in cooking and feasting, and soon
after sunset the last great dance comes off. Men and
women, young and old, chiefs and commoners, in two long
rows, drums beating, advance slowly along the main street,
return, advance several times, then up at right angles
another street to the finest-built house in Kerepunu, at the
side of which is the famous upright log named ' Alamakea.'
Of this log it is said several tribes tried to lift it and
remove it, but all failed except the Lovalupuans. This was
in a far misty past, and the log is where it was planted by
their forefathers, near the house of the custodian of their
ancient sayings and mythology, and the priest who presents
their offerings to the spirit or spirits. In front of this house
the dancing is indeed slow, and the beating of drums and
chanting low and monotonous. Then it becomes a little
more lively, and I, who have watched them for three hours,
wonder when they are going to stop. Then my old friend
Koapena speaks, quicker dancing follows, backwards,
forwards, backwards, back, back, right into the lagoon, when
a loud shout arises and the drums are all bathed and made
useless, to be put aside for another season. So ended the
Kerepunu feast.

SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE 199
Connected with offerings, the following may be inter
esting. Natives never believe in being sick from anything
but spiritual causes, and that death, unless by murder, can
take place from nothing but the wrath of the spirits. When
there is sickness in a family, all the relatives begin to
wonder what it means. The sick person getting no better,
they conclude something must be done. A present is
given, perhaps food is taken and placed on the sacred
place, then removed and divided amongst friends. The
invalid still being no better, a pig is taken on to the sacred
place and there speared and presented to the spirits. It is
then returned and divided to be eaten. When death
comes, great is the mourning, and the cause, if not already
known, is still inquired into. It may have been breaking
some taboo, or doing something the spirits did not like.
Soon the body must be buried, and generally a grave is
dug under the house. The older women of the family
stand in the grave and receive the body, holding it in their
hands if a child, laying it on one side if heavy, saying, ' O
great Spirit, you have been angry with us. We presented
you with food, and that did not satisfy. We gave a pig,
and still that did not satisfy. You have in your wrath
taken this. Let that suffice thy wrath, and take no more.'
The body is thus placed in the grave and buried.
At every feast, large or small, and often with ordinary
food, a small portion is placed beside the principal post in
the house, as the spirits' portion.
Ilamea is the name of the sacred man, priest, or holder
of all ancient mythology. He is the sorcerer of the
place, foretelling events, and through him the spirit speaks.
When anxious to go to war, they first consult him, and if the
spirit appears to him with cocoanuts in hand they may
go out and fight, for they will be prosperous. Should the
spirit appear with a wooden rareva (sword) in hand, there
is no use going out ; any attempt would be futile ; many

200 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
would be killed, and they would return to mourn, not to
rejoice. III. New Guinea Life in its Native Happiness.
It is often said, Why not leave the savages alone in their
virgin glory ? only then are they truly happy. How little
those who so speak and write know what savage life is !
A savage seldom sleeps well at night. He fears ghosts
and hobgoblins ; these midnight wanderers cause him much
alarm, as they are heard in falling leaves, chirping lizards,
or disturbed birds singing ; but, besides these, there are
embodied spirits that he has good cause to fear, and
especially at that uncanny hour between the morning star
and glimmering light of the approaching lord of day, the
hour of yawning and arm-stretching, when the awakening
pipe is lighted and the first smoke of the day is enjoyed.
The following narrative explains what I mean.
Paitana is a village up one of the creeks from Hall
Sound, near Yule Island, surrounded by mangrove
swamps ; but in the village, cocoanut, betel nut, and
bread-fruit grow luxuriantly. The natives have always
been looked upon as treacherous, but having visited them
some time ago it was hoped they would become more
friendly. On my return to Yule, I found that on my
previous visit some had arranged to have my head, and
I can remember many things that looked very suspicious.
Some years ago two foreigners were killed in Hall
Sound by the Paitana natives. They have also killed
people from Delena, Maiva, and other villages, but the
climax was reached when they killed a man from Lese
who was visiting them as a friend. When the news
of the murder reached Lese they determined to have
revenge, but resolved to wait until the planting season
was over.
For long the Paitana natives lived away in towards the

SKETCHES OF NEW GUINEA LIFE 201
hills, but thinking Lese had in the meantime given up all
idea of 'payment,' they returned to the village. During
all that time the Lese natives were preparing revarevas
(war canoes), and keeping very quiet as to the time of
their attack ; but it came at last, and a terrible payment it
was. Paitana, in her fancied security so far up a creek,
in through very long grass, and surrounded by thick man
grove bush, little dreamt of what the morning would yield.
All the revarevas were got ready, and men and women
shipped. When visiting Motumotu some time ago, we slept in
our boat one night between Lese and the former. I was
very tired, having been over a week in the boats. About
2 A.M. I was awakened by shouting, and on looking over
the gunwale saw to my astonishment a fully equipped
revareva. Forty men are carried in each canoe, with
paddles, and a number of men stand on the centre platform
with bows and arrows. After hearing who we were, we
soon became friends and exchanged presents. The
revareva is composed of two very long canoes lashed
together by long poles, with a platform between.
Twenty-four of these were got ready by Lese, and
started. Pulling all night, they arrived on the south-west
side of Yule before daybreak, and they remained until the
following night. After sunset, and when quite dark, they
pulled for the creek, where they met a canoe with a
man and two women belonging to Roro in it. They made
the man prisoner, saying they did not mean to kill him,
but that to save his own life and that of the women he
must become their guide to Paitana. To that he
consented, and they allowed the women to depart. He
led them up the creek, through the swamps, long grass,
bush, etc., close to the village, when they allowed him to
return. They then surrounded the village, sending a strong

202 LIFE AND- WORK IN NEW GUINEA
party into the main street. All sat down quietly and
waited for a little more light. The morning star was up,
and soon there would be light for their dreadful work. A
native awakes, lights his baubau (pipe), has a smoke, a
yawn, and a stretch, looks out and sees people in the
village. He calls out, —
' Who are you ? '
' We are Leseans come to pay for our friend you
murdered. Long have we waited to see you paid for your
murdering propensities, but all seem afraid. You have
tried on us, and now we shall see.'
In other houses the aroused natives are in a state of
confusion, the arrows begin to fly in showers, and men,
women, and children are wounded in their houses. Many
fleeing are caught and clubbed, or their brains are beaten
out with clubs. Many remain in their houses, hoping that
they may be omitted from the general carnage. The houses
are entered and everything valuable is carried away, and
then the whole is set in a blaze, when the dead, those dying
from wounds, and the living are all burnt in the one great
fire. Men, women, and children all suffered ; mercy was
shown to none. I asked a native who got through the
environment how many were killed. He said it was im
possible to tell the number of the dead, but only ten who
slept in the village that night escaped.
Flushed with victory and weighted with loot, the
Leseans returned to their revarevas, pulled down the creek
and along the coast, with horns blowing and men and
women dancing and singing on the platforms of the
revarevas. Mercy the savage does not know, but still he
can appreciate it when extended to himself.
While staying at Maiva, where those who escaped are
living, a child six years old was brought to me as a Paitana
child. In the first scrimmage he got through the surround
ing army unnoticed, and ran away into the bush, where he

A TREE HOUSE, KOIARI

204 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
remained until he heard the Leseans departing. Then he
returned to the village to look for his mother, brothers, and
sisters. He found the dead charred bodies of them all.
A man told me that little children were caught by the feet
and dashed against the cocoanut-trees.
On their return home the Leseans had feasting and
dancing ; and ever since they had gloried much in their
great bravery, and they recount again and again the
scenes of murder, of rapine, and robbery. Lese wishes
to have a teacher, and will treat him well ; they are
now very good friends of mine, and promise to remain
quiet. Savage life is not the joyous hilarity that many writers
would lead us to understand. It is not all the happy laugh,
the feast and the dance. There are often seasons when
communities are scattered, hiding in large trees, in caves
under rocks, in other villages, and far away from their own.
Not long ago, inland from Port Moresby, a large hunting-
party camping in a cave were smoked out by their enemies
and all killed but one. When travelling inland, we found
the Makapili tribe in terrible weather living in the bush,
under shelving rocks, among the long grass, and in hollow
trees. At Port Moresby they say that now for the first time
they can sleep in peace, and that as they can trust the
peace of God's Word they mean to keep to it. Being
themselves pirates, robbers, and murderers, they might
well fear others.
Some time ago the large tribe of Saroa came over the
hills in strong battle array, and in the early morning
ascended the Manukolo hills, surrounded the villages,
killed men, women, and children, old and young, from the
poor old grey-headed sire to the infant in arms. About
forty got away to Kaile, but soon had to leave, as Saroa
threatened to burn Kaile, if they continued to harbour the

A NEW GUINEA VILLAGE IN THE GULF

206 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
fugitives. They pleaded for peace, but in vain ; Saroa said
all must die. The quarrel began about a pig.
And so it has been all along the coast of New Guinea
for ages past. But a better day is dawning. We are
doing better than leave the fine, active, intelligent New
Guinea natives to their ' happy ' state of savage life. The
Gospel is pre-eminently to them a Gospel of peace, and it
is only during the last ten years that the inhabitants of
New Guinea have begun to know what real happiness is.

207

CHAPTER X
AN ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON THE GULF OF PAPUA
Ten years ago, when little was known of the people west
of Manumanu in Redscar Bay, I hoped, if God spared my
life, to introduce the Gospel to all the districts as far as
Orokolo, and thought that the work might occupy a fair
lifetime. We got to Orokolo in January 1892, and now
my desire has enlarged, and I hope yet to carry the Gospel
to the Fly River, and to the westward. The plan I have
always adopted is to visit frequently, get thoroughly known
by living with the people, and, through interpreters, tell
them the story of Divine love, and so prepare the way for
teachers living with them. I place no teacher where I
have not first lived myself, and where I should be unwilling
to live frequently.
No accounts of unknown districts I have ever received
from natives equalled in real savagery those relating to the
Namau districts, and of course these gave a charm to the
plan of trying to be the first to visit it. In March 1891,
our Governor, visiting to the west of Namau, was attacked,
but repulsed the savages by firing on them ; I thought it
possible the more western natives of the district might be
implicated. When at Port Moresby in June 1893, I secured a good
interpreter, Vaaburi, an active, elderly, comical fellow, but
thoroughly reliable for such an expedition as I was
planning. In former years he was constantly with me,
and never liked my taking even a short trip without him.

208 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA -
When I told him what I wanted, all he said was, ' I go
gladly, but let me go and hear what my wife and daughter
say.' They said, ' Yes, certainly, go with Tamate.' It was
a busy time, getting plantations ready for planting yams.
The old lady said she and her daughter would do all the
work, but I gladdened their hearts by giving her sufficient
trade to get all done by relatives. When leaving Port
Moresby all came to see us off. The old fellow's last
words to his relatives were, ' God watch over you — I will
think of you, and perhaps Tamate will let me send you
some sago in the Hanamoa.'
On arrival at Toaripi in Motumotu, we found the sea
too heavy for us to go into the Gulf in a whale-boat, and
so waited until the wind and sea went down. My outfit
was simple, and the only weapon of defence we had was
the stout hazel wand presented to me by an old Inverary
friend. The sail to Vailala was slow, and we did not
arrive until midnight. During the evening the wind
increased, and the night looked dirty. When off the river
Vailala we met a heavy sea, and had to decide whether to
go in or remain outside for the night ; either course was
dangerous. The wind and sea were increasing, and the
latter seemed likely to get much worse ; I determined to
risk the bar, although if swamped and upset no life would
be saved. Down sails and mast, and my best men to the
oars. Our only light was from the white foam of the
breakers all round. Several heavy ones have gone on.
' Pull lads, pull,' — ' Steady,' — ' Stop her way,' and all
round us were white running seas. But we must not let
one master us, and carry us on. Again a long pull, a
strong pull, and away goes an oar broken in two. ' Keep
at it lads, we're just in.' The wild crashing breakers are
passed, and now we have only the heavy inside swell and
strong current, and soon after midnight we drop anchor
near the mission house. After prayers we shake

AD VENTURO US JO URNE Y ON GULF OF PAP UA 209
ourselves into positions for a few hours' sleep, which we
got, all of us being accustomed to this kind of life.
Early in the morning we were seen, and the teacher
was soon on the beach calling us ashore. We landed, had
a service and breakfast, and there being a change for the
better in the wind and sea, we started for Orokolo, where
we arrived early in the day. We ought to have four
teachers here instead of two. One great advantage at
Orokolo is the large and varied supply of food ; in this
respect resembling much an Eastern Polynesian island.
I do not think we have another district where children
are so numerous. It is an interesting sight to watch them
at play on the beach. We landed at the eastern station,
and in the afternoon walked over to the western, where
we remained that night.
Next morning we were all early astir, and by seven
were ready for a start. We tried to take the boat through
the surf, but it looked like getting wet, so I had her taken
ashore and carried up beyond high-water mark. It is not
far, about six miles, to the first river, so we got carriers
and were soon there. There were three creeks to cross,
and to the great delight of the young men I allowed
myself to be carried over in a horizontal position. On
arriving at the river we found a small canoe on the bank,
and I sent Vaaburi and two young men across, so that if
possible they were to get word sent to Apope on the Arere
to our old friend Ipai of Maipua, who was living there, that
I was at Aivei, and wanted to get to him. We waited
some hours, and a large canoe coming along, we hired it,
and crossed to the other side. Two men arrived saying
that Ipai and a large party were coming in a large canoe,
and would soon be there. They soon appeared, and the
first I saw was Tamate Ipai, a child about eight years old,
who ever shadows her father, and I knew well the chief
was not far off. They pulled up near. His wife, the one
O

210 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
who was with him at Motumotu, had died about eighteen
months ago, and he was still in mourning for her, and part
of his mourning was the dress, well worn now and dirty,
given to her by my wife three years ago. No time was
lost, we got into the canoe, and away we went, but now
there was no hurry, and it was smoke, chat, laugh and
shout ; and a two hours' pull takes us quite four to do, but
it does not matter, we are not going further than Apope
that day. Kamake (they cannot pronounce the T in
Tamate) takes my hazel wand as her special charge.
Apope is a new village on the west bank of the Arere,
built by Ipai and a number of Maipuans. Ipai says,
' Kamake, fighting and eating human flesh I have done
with. I have come here with all these people, and will
settle here for good if you will give us a teacher. You told
me long ago you would not give me a teacher for Maipua
because of the swamp. Here you can have good ground,
as much as you like, and we will at once build the house.'
' Why, Ipai,. there is a swamp, there is another, and the
smell is strong.' The village is built on a piece of good
sandy ground, with a swamp on either side. He said, ' Stay
until you have rested, and then let us go and see the land
I have referred to.' We started, got to the beach, and
walking a short distance, came to a really good piece of
land, with cocoanuts in abundance, and, pointing to a tree,
Ipai said, ' Give us a teacher, and from here to the river
the whole point is yours. We build the house and we bridge
the swamp for him to walk on.' I promised, as I saw a good
opening here to the whole district, and a convenient place
of call for myself when coming from the Fly River.
Ipai's wife is buried in the ground. He took me to the
grave. A house covers it, and at head and feet two pretty
crotons grow. A broken cooking pot and dish, and one or
two other little things lie by the side. She was a quiet,
modest, kind, savage woman. Ipai has two more wives left,

AD VENTURO US JO URNE Y ON G ULF OF PAPUA 211
but I fancy the dead woman was his favourite. She was
Kamake's mother, and the affection between father and
daughter is truly wonderful. See the father anywhere, and
the daughter will soon come into view ; and see the
daughter, and the father is sure to be near. We returned
to the house, and I arranged to sleep on the platform rather
than in Ipai's temple, or club house, where the crowd was
great, and it felt, to say the least, stuffy. We had service,
the singing pleasing them much, and the interpreter told
them the story of God's love to us all. My candle light
astonished them greatly. Before spreading out my blanket
I asked Ipai to take off the woman's dress, and I would
give him a shirt to travel in with us. He did so, and I gave
him a white flannel shirt I was wearing, which, of course,
added greatly to the value of the present. He consented
to let us have his large canoe to accompany us, and to
get a good crew, and that we should start early in the
morning. I was very tired, and ready, as I thought, to sleep under
any circumstances, so spread out my Malagasy cloth,
presented by the ever good friend of missionaries, the late
Mrs. Swan, of Edinburgh, and on it my blanket. Sleep !
all chance of it had gone. The present and future are with
me. The Gospel is being preached all through Namau,
and I saw the end of killing and cannibalism, and another
people won to Christ. My interpreter and Ipai were busy
also, the one asking questions and the other answering,
with smokes. Cock-crowing is near, and I must sleep ; so
I get two hours or thereabouts. By daylight I am up,
quite refreshed, ready for a hard day.
After breakfast and service I muster all hands, but find
the crew I expected for the canoe have backed out, because
we are going to places they do not like. I won't give up
one place, and tell Ipai I must find my way without them,
and so with my own boys I start for the canoe. It has to

212 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
be put into the water, and alone we cannot manage it. We
have not long to wait ; Kamake appears, and then her
father, followed by others, and the canoe having been got
afloat we are soon on board and away. Kamake is left
behind, as it is not considered safe for her, and she returns
to the village crying bitterly, but comforted, I have no
doubt, with her presents and the prospect of others when
we return, as she knows we have left a case of things behind
in care of the two wives.
About 9 o'clock we slowly passed Maipua, and were
hailed by many old friends, but did not land. Canoes
followed us some distance, and for disobedience and inso
lence I had to land one of my youths to await our return.
That over we had quite a holiday trip, though under a
burning sun. We crossed Port Blomfield, and rowed up
the Panaroa some distance into creeks, large streams, some
with currents in our favour, and others against. In the
afternoon we crossed the Urita at the mouth : a fine big
harbour and, I should think, good entrance.
Some miles up the river we came suddenly upon a canoe
full of youths, who on seeing us were frightened so much
that they could only shout. We .took no notice of them,
and went on into another creek, where we came upon a
canoe with a man and a woman on board. Poor things ! I
do not think I have ever seen natives so frightened. It
took us some time to calm them, by assuring them we were
friends, and that they had only to look and they would see
we were all friends. Vaaburi said, ' Of old, Maipua used to
come this way and kill all they met, and then attack the
villages.' When calmed the woman, recognising Vaaburi,
said, ' Oh me, I live, why should I be afraid, and you here ? '
Giving them a small present, we started them ahead to
inform the people we were near, and that they were not to
be afraid ; the interpreter adding : ' Now, no bows and
arrows, but meet us as real friends, for I have brought you

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 213
Tamate, you have heard of, and he is unarmed.' Ipai told
them, ' It is all peace and friendship, and we have come
with the white man.' They were soon out of sight.
We took a short cut through a dirty mud creek, where
all got out, and just dragged the canoe through. The
smell was bad indeed. My Motumotuans were very
frightened, as they thought we were simply in the hands
of the cannibals, who might be in ambush on either bank.
We came out into a good stream, and soon saw houses
and a large temple. This was Koropanairu, a village
which had suffered much from Maipua in the past. There
were houses on both banks, and people excited and
shouting. Some of the women danced and sang, others
screamed and beat their breasts, and little children were
held up to see a white man. I stood up in the canoe, so
as to give every one a chance. Near to the houses were
platforms covered with sago palm leaves, and on each
platform was a dead body. They place their dead on
these platforms, as the whole place is simply mud and
water, no solid ground anywhere. The smell was too
strong to permit of any of us taking food.
On arriving at the large stream, the Arai, we turned
round, and, accompanied by numerous canoes, packed
nearly to sinking, we made for the large dubu. Lest I
should wet my feet, a way was made of long sticks over
the mud, on which I walked to the platform of the dubu.
The chief was away from home, but the wife in charge
had quantities of food cooked and sent to us ; but not one
of my boys would touch it, saying it might have been
cooked in pots used for cooking human flesh, or prepared
by hands unwashed since last they rubbed themselves over
with the juice from the dead bodies about. No use
arguing, eat they would not ; and I confess I could not
lead off, and so give them an example. Ipai, the Maipuans,
and the interpreter were not so nice, so they enjoyed a

214 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
hearty meal. Eh, it was a noisy, excited crowd which
gathered round us in that dubu. My boys were all terribly
frightened, and cowered close up behind me. Every action
on our part was of interest, but the most exciting things
are a lighted match, my writing, and my foot. The latter
is tenderly handled, and instructions are rigorously given
on no account to press it, lest it should hurt. It is dark,
and inside the dubu pitch dark, but the crowd still continues,
and the place is very hot and stuffy. I get Vaaburi and
Ipai to tell them we are going to have service, and I want
quiet. Everybody is shouting to everybody else to be
quiet, and it took some time before we began. I did not
light a candle, as I hoped the crowd would clear out and
leave us, after service.
In that strange place, where there are charms and
fetishes of all kinds, and skulls of human beings, crocodiles,
pigs, and cassowaries, placed in each division, and where
at the small end there are six hideous Kanibus, gods, we
sing a translation of the hymn, ' Hark ! the voice of love
and mercy,' and I do not think I ever heard it sound
better, yet none of us can boast of singing power. Prayer
was offered by a young Toaripian, and again the interpreter
explained the Gospel to them. Service over, no one would
go, so I lighted my candle, which caused great excitement.
There was a great noise outside, and much shouting in. I
wondered what it meant. My boys thought it meant
slaughter this time, and they crouched in the darkness
behind me. I held the candle up, and found that way was
being made for an old chap, who is told to be sure and
give his right hand when Tamate gives his, as that is the
mark of peace and friendship with the white men. He
does it well, and is followed by a young well-dressed
fellow, who goes through the same handshaking, and then
both squat in front of me. It is the chief and his son from
Ukerave, a cluster of villages to be visited to-morrow.

216 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
Shouting, laughing, smoking, all talking, and trying to talk
one another down, left me a quiet spectator of a peculiarly
weird scene. Hundreds felt my foot, and shouted with
astonishment at its softness and whiteness. It was getting
late, and the old chief must go home, but he must have my
promise that I would not pass his door without a call, and
to insure it the son must remain and conduct me.
Telling Ipai I was tired, and wanted to lie down in a
corner near the platform, he asked me if he might talk all
night, as he had much to say. ' Certainly, talk away ; as I
am so sleepy, I think I can sleep through it all' My
youths were astonished that I could even think of sleep in
this place. My blanket was spread, and I send the candle
to Ipai, and know no more until daybreak, when it is time
to be up and getting ready for a start. More food is
cooked and eaten by those who consumed yesterday-
evening's. The crowd increases quickly, and we have
service, when near the end of prayer there is a fearful
voluminous shout, and prayer is quickly ended. A crowd,
led by a well-feathered, good-looking, kindly man, press
into the dubu, and he comes near to where I am. All are
unarmed, so it is all right. I am told this is the chief Avai,
returned from his expedition. I had already given the
present for him and the dubus, and sent some beads for his
wife. He is very much disappointed that we are leaving
so soon, but I believe in first visits being short, just giving
them a taste as it were, and then leaving them to think,
and wonder when I shall again return. But we must not
leave without a pig. Avai goes out, and calls a name, and
' Mai mai,' and a good-sized pig comes right up to the
platform. It is soon despatched with a club, lifted up and
placed in the canoe, as I decided it should be cooked at
our next halt.
We passed several canoes along the bank, and when we
came to Avai's home, he being in our canoe, the chief

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 217

insisted on our pulling up alongside one in charge of a
good-looking motherly body, who wanted us to take
everything she had into the canoe. She was Avai's best
beloved wife, and had been travelling with him ; all night
they were in the canoes. Native-like, my people would

' fflPif '
to

MANGROVE SWAMP

have taken everything, but I confined them to a few areca
nuts and betel peppers.
We were accompanied by many canoes, all packed with
a noisy, excited crowd.
Leaving Kailiu, an extension of Koropanairu, on our

218 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
right, we descended the creek, and soon came to a fine
large opening, part of the Arai — there we met a large
flotilla of canoes. There were fifty accompanying us, and on
meeting the others these backed. We pulled on, the
canoes meeting us opened to right and left ; when we were
in the centre they closed in, and on we slowly went, until
near a village of Ukerave, when they opened up again and
we went alongside the bank. It is a dirty, bad-smelling
hole. To get to the chief's house a way was made over
the mud with canoes end to end, along which I was to walk,
lest I should wet my feet. The chief Ipai (I think nearly
all the great men in this part are called Ipai) and his son
both had hold of me, and I was led up on to the verandah
of his house, where there was a mat spread on which I was
to squat. The crowd was very great, and two-thirds of
them were armed. I got my boys after some little trouble
to go aside and cook, but they would keep coming near to
me. There were certainly some very villainous-looking
fellows in that crowd. The pig was got ready, cut up and
on the fire, when the conch shell was heard in the distance,
and up sprang cooks and everybody else belonging to me,
on to the verandah, and close to me. The interpreter
explained from the chief that it was a new canoe being
tried by the young men of a neighbouring village. I was
satisfied, but my people were not to be gulled, as they said,
in that way, and not one of them would go down, until I '
threatened to go down and do the cooking myself; then
two of the bravest found their way to the fire. Nearer
and nearer the conch blowing approached, and I stood up
to see the canoe come round the bend of the river. It was
a pretty sight. A large canoe painted various colours with
ochre and lime, twenty finely built youths gorgeously
dressed with feathers and colours, standing up and pulling
as one, and at their hardest — conscious, I have no doubt,
that they were being observed by a white man, as no

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 219
others had ever been observed there before. Other young
men were sitting in the bottom of the canoe, and one of
them had the conch shell, which he was blowing. It was
only a moment, but as they passed they gave one glance
to the verandah, and for the first time saw a white man,
and then on.
After breakfast — mine was a very light one — we had
service, and then to canoe. Most of the pig was brought
into the canoe in baskets made of cocoanut leaves. Ipai
soon followed, saying he wanted a tomahawk. Asking him
what he wanted it for, he said for another pig which the
chief's son Koivi wanted us to have. The tomahawk I got
for him, but the pig I would not have. I gave orders to
move off, but we were not only hemmed in with canoes,
but held fast by many hands. No use saying anything,
the excitement was too great, and I felt sure a very
little spark would cause a fearful catastrophe. Vaaburi
had been chewing betel so much that I could get little help
from him. All my boys were particularly frightened, and
the Maipuans hung their heads. Ipai looked very glum.
Grasping the situation at last — that Koivi was ashamed to
let us go without a pig — I told the interpreter to say that
I hoped to return with a steamer in six moons, and the pig
should wait till that visit. There was a lull, and we were
moving away, but again were closed in and held fast. A
loud shout and a rattling of arrows, and I began to think
things were growing unpleasant. The tomahawk I had
given to Ipai was still lying near him, and I saw he was
anxiously watching every movement. I was going ashore
to get to Koivi, and disarm him, but I was prevented, and
then I was told he thought I would not have his present,
because the pig was a small one, and he was going to kill
the biggest he could get in the village. Everywhere it was
excitement, but eventually I made myself heard, calling for
Koivi. Leaving his bows and arrows behind, he came

220 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
down, and again I told him, when the moon came to my
wrist (six moons) he was to look out for me, and then we
should eat pig ; that perhaps the governor, of whom they
had heard much during the last few hours, might visit them
before me, and if so he was to have it. I gave him a small
present, we clasped hands, the way opened, and we got out
into midstream, surrounded with nearly a hundred canoes,
large and small, from all quarters. I was sitting looking
ahead when I felt our canoe taken hold of, and a large
canoe shooting up on our port side. On looking round
there was Ipai, Koivi's father, handing me a well-fed young
live dog, which I took and handed to our Ipai, then picked
up the tomahawk, and gave it to the old fellow. In
handing me the dog, he said, ' You must have something
in leaving my village.' I assured him again that in six
moons I should visit them, and the interpreter explained
what the steamer was like, telling them not to be afraid
when they saw it. The flotilla opened, and we passed out,
my boys devoutly hoping I had made up my mind to
return home. On learning I had not, and that I meant to
go right on, some got ill, others glum, and one poor wretch
simply sat down and cried. I suppose they knew their
own savage nature better than I did, and were frightened
accordingly. Ukerave is a collection of villages, and I believe contains
a very large population. I would not suggest placing
teachers here until we can send them New Guineans. It
is quite possible, now that there is peace, they may leave
the swamps up the river, and go down to the mouth,
where there is a good position for one or two large villages
on land suitable for teachers to live. The strange thing
is that all the men, women and children living in these
swamps should look so well and healthy— the children are
especially bright and intelligent. The women are scantily
clothed, but they are about the most modest I have seen.

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 221
They remind me of women far inland at the back of Hall
Sound, who were as scantily clothed, and like them in
modesty. Going down stream after a loud talk, screaming
laughter, and a good feed, there is any amount of joking
over the pipe (all are now brave as lions), and will go any
where with Tamate and his hazel stick. I confess that
once I thought mischief was brewing, and we might all be
slaughtered, and I found Ipai had thought the same. We
kept quiet, pretended we were quite careless about getting
away, and we trusted them. Only since my last visit have
they and Maipua been friendly. Formerly the Maipuans
killed many of them, ate them, and hung their heads as
trophies in the dubus.
The Arai is a splendid stream, and has a fine capacious
harbour at the mouth. It was now up one creek and down
another for some hours. In one stream we met a canoe
with a man and two boys in it ; they showed no fear, but
came alongside and had a smoke. They were from
Kaiburave, whither we were now bound. They gave us
cocoanuts and sugar cane, and told us to go on, and they
would follow by-and-by with more food. It was easily
seen we were now very near the coast, tall mangrove and
nipa palms abounding, and soon the water became brackish.
We met another canoe with a man and a woman, but neither
appeared the least afraid. We gave them a present, and
sent them on ahead to prepare the people for our arrival.
At last we rounded a great bend, and we were at the first
of the Kaiburave villages, Kove, built on a point of land
between two salt-water creeks. We pulled on and passed
another, Kaurave, also on a muddy point between two
creeks, and arrived at Aperave, where we were to
camp. Crowds flocked everywhere, and my instructions were
to stand up, which I did that I might be seen by all. The
chief, Kiromia, a fine gentlemanly man, took me by the

222 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
hand and led me up the logs to his house, the largest and
finest native dwelling I have yet seen in New Guinea.
The outer part was given to us, and the inner part screened
off with blinds, or curtains, such as the Chinese make from
bamboo (only Kaiburave ones are made from the spine of
the sago leaf split into strips). This portion of the house
was reserved for his wives and daughters. One wife he
introduced to us, a kindly woman, in mourning for some
one. The sun coming upon me, orders were given immediately
to shade well with cocoanut leaves, that my beautiful com
plexion might not be destroyed. No one was allowed to
crowd on my mat. As I was anxious to get on to the
coast, Kiromia at once gave orders for a canoe, and in
about ten minutes they were ready. We had twenty pad
dlers, a fine strong-looking lot of fellows, who evidently
thought it a capital joke to have a white man all to them
selves. We pulled down the creek Kaumari about six miles to
the mouth. I felt very thirsty and wished for a cocoanut,
and away sprung several ashore along the beach to a grove
some distance off, and returned laden. As I was not to be
allowed to get wet on any account, three men assisted me to
land, and Kiromia, the chief, kept near me wherever I went.
This point of land at the mouth on the western side will,
I hope, be yet occupied by Kiromia and a party, and a
teacher. In coming down every canoe we saw was hailed,
and Tamate and his party expatiated upon, whilst the pad
dlers gave a shout, and made additional remarks. On re
turning it was moonlight, and we raced with another large
canoe and got beaten, so youth-like there was banter and
challenge until Kiromia stopped it, knowing well to what it
would lead. During my absence my boys had been so
frightened that they proposed taking a canoe and coming
in search of me. They felt their only safety was in being

A STREET IN NEW GUINEA

224 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
near to me. They cooked their pig and their own sago,
but would touch no food cooked by others.
During prayers the natives were most respectful, and
listened attentively to the interpreter discoursing on God's
love. The one God of love staggers them, and that He
has told us so in a book is more than they can comprehend.
There was a great babel. Our singing had a wonderful
charm, for we had complete silence, and requests to go on.
The note in my diary is as follows :
' The house is now full, we have had prayers, and have
been singing, and truly the savage breast, or lungs, or
throat is soothed, for they are very quiet' About 9
o'clock the audience began to disperse, and on my intimating
a desire to turn in, all left except the house folk and our
party. I then gave the chief my present, gladdening his heart
by taking off my shirt and putting it on him. In these
trips the wardrobe decreases considerably, and I always
return with a much lighter swag than when I start. I
asked for his queen wife, and the lady of the afternoon was
brought to me. I gave her a present of various small
things, but the most valuable of all in her eyes, and also
her husband's, was a small parcel of beads, which they
both gloated over for some time. I believe the old fellow
was better pleased with his wife's present than the one he
received himself. I spread my Malagasy on the outer
verandah, and was soon asleep. At about 2 A.M. heavy
rain awoke me, and I had to go inside. There was
still a big fire burning, and earnest conversation going
on. At daylight we were all up, and had not long to wait
for an audience. After breakfast I went in a canoe to the
erabo, or temple, where I was received by Kiromia and a
large number of men, sitting down each side of the
aisle.

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 225
The place is full of masks, fetishes, etc., and hanging
on pegs on each division of the temple are many human
skulls, altogether nearly 400, while lying on the floor,
arranged in rows, are crocodiles', pigs', and cassowaries'
skulls. At the far end, where the temple tapers to only
seven feet high, and shut off with a screen from the main
portion, is the sacred place, where there were twenty of those
hideous wicker-work Kanibus, homes for the small bat,
which inhabits them in hundreds. Of course my people
were with me, and I noticed that alongside of our
Toaripians (Motumotuans) the people were a shade
darker, and alongside our Hall Sound boys, two shades
darker. As a rule they are short, although they have some
fine specimens of manhood. The hair is short and tufty,
and nowhere did I meet a native with a large frizzy head
of hair. I was sorry not to be able to take measurements,
but the excitement was too great, and might have caused
trouble. When in the temple, the natives were very anxious
to impress me with the greatness of Kiromia and Aua, who
are equal, grid are ' as the sun and moon in splendour.'
I gave them a picture of my wife to study, and it was
amusing to watch them. They turned it all ways, hurriedly
from back to front, and vice versd, up, down, put it aside,
then tried it again, but of no use ; they could not grasp it,
nor did all the explanation of the interpreter help them
any. They gave it up, and returned it with a ' Can't see
any wife there.'
During the day the crowd increased, all pressing near
to get a sight of the ' white man who brings peace and
friendship.' About mid-day I was informed that several of
my boys were sick, and we were out of water and cocoanuts,
so had to leave.
The farewells were those of sincere friendship. Kiromia
helped me down to the canoe, and hundreds of men,
women, and children lined the bank. I said good-bye, got
P

226 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
on board ; Ipai followed with a small bundle of arrows
carefully wrapped in his hand. A few words were spoken,
and we quietly moved away, Kiromia, dressed in my shirt,
standing on a log, weeping, and calling out, ' Kamake,
Kamake,' and holding his wrist, to intimate I was sure to
return in six moons. The crowd gave one long shout,
and away we went, full speed ahead. The moon was small
and our light dim, in some places dark. At last the moon
set, and we could see but little. At one place all apparently
were tired and sleepy, when the man in the bow gave a
fearful scream that startled everybody, and then shouted
that he was gone. It turned out he had been nearly
asleep, a branch standing across the stream caught him,
and he thought it was a crocodile. It caused great
merriment and awoke all hands. It was uncertain work
crossing the mouths of the large rivers in the dark, as it
was blowing and raining hard, but all were anxious to get
on, and we risked everything. Wet and cold, we arrived
in early morning on the east point of Port Blomfield,
and the crew, tired and wet, landed, lighted fires, and
intended sleeping. Being left alone in the canoe I made
myself comfortable in it, and was nearly off when I was
aroused by a big flambeau blazing over me, and Ipai
saying, ' Kamake, it is going to rain hard, we must make
for the village,' and I was glad. When going through the
village to the eastern side, where Ipai's old temple is, we
had to pass several belonging to other chiefs. From each
we were challenged, and Ipai always answered, and also
gave a short account of our trip. We found the youth I
had landed and left behind very much better in every way.
I got about two hours' rest, and then got up and away.
To Apope we had a company of canoes, with eager listeners
on board of each, and every canoe we met interviewed us.
The home meeting at Apope was affectionate, all were
glad to see us back, and little Kamake spun around terribly

ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ON GULF OF PAPUA 227
excited. When sitting on the verandah, the daughter got
so excited and beyond bounds that the father spoke sharply
to her, and she began to cry bitterly. I imitated her, and
the crowd standing round did not know what to make of
it, until I burst out laughing, and sent all into fits ; some
threw themselves on the ground and rolled about, others
held their sides, not a few rushed off, and Ipai rolled about
and dare not look me in the face ; tears rolled down his
cheeks, and he could do nothing but laugh. He felt very
sore after it.
A pig and food were cooked and eaten, we got into canoe,
and paddled away for the Aivei, where we landed on the
Orokolo side. Hilarity had gone, and we were all very
sorry to part from one another. I left Ipai sitting on a
log and crying bitterly. Farewells were shouted as long
as we could be heard, and in the distance beyond hearing,
uplifted hands. At Orokolo we spent three days. We
nearly came to grief entering the Vailala. Spent a day
with the teacher and people there, and on coming out of
the river one sea broke aboard that nearly swamped us ;
certainly a second one would have done so, and we should
have gone over, but we pulled well out, and then up with
sail and stood away for home.
All was not well at home. One woman who had a
quarrel with her husband, to spite him had hanged herself,
and other two wretches had decoyed a boy along the beach,
and when some distance from our eastern mission house
cruelly murdered him with sticks, dug a hole in the sand
near a cocoanut grove, and buried the body in it. Fortu
nately such acts of murder are very infrequent in New
Guinea. The boy, an orphan, was missed by relatives and
search made, but he could not be found until the younger
of the murderers, a lad of fifteen or thereabout, told his
sisters, who told the boy's sister. The relatives wished
condign punishment at once, and to kill the murderers,

228 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
according to custom, but order prevailed, and the word of
Lahari, a young warrior chief, was listened to, not to kill or
quarrel, but to leave it, and see what the Governor will do.
This is a wonderful advance in Toaripi in two or three
years. Influenza has been very bad, and there have been many
deaths.

229

CHAPTER XI
THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO
IT had been for some time felt that to re-begin and carry on
work on the Fly River, steam was necessary, especially as
the work was to be carried on by teachers or evangelists
from the South Seas or Eastern Polynesia. A very
successful beginning was made in 1892 at Saguane and
Ipisia, villages on the island of Kiwai, at the very mouth of
the Fly River. Many other places had been visited and
land secured for building purposes, but without steam the
work would be difficult and trying to those engaged in it.
On January 5, 1892, the Miro arrived in Thursday Island,
and was at once taken over by me, the crew from Sydney dis
charged, a new crew shipped, and the vessel got ready for
her work. It was very far into the north-west monsoon ;
still much might be done. On January 12, at mid-day, we
cast off from Burns, Philip, & Co.'s wharf, and steamed
away into Torres Straits, arriving at The Sisters in the
evening. The next morning we steamed away for Masig
(York Island), and anchored in the afternoon. We got
wood and water on board, and the following day at noon
we up anchor, and away to Darnley, where we anchored
on the east side of the island. The following day, being
the Sabbath, we remained.
I arranged for the services to be held the following day,
and so made it a great day on the island. For the first
time in several years they had the Lord's Supper, and
several extra meetings. The building was crowded, chiefly

230 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
with men and women from Murray Island, who were
across upon a feast to be given on the Tuesday following.
At the close of the services I arranged for the teacher, a
native of Mabuiag, to leave and take Masig, and that a
Samoan would take Darnley. The Mabuiag man has not
the slightest influence over the South Sea Islanders, who
are numerous on the island, and the people I fear fancy
they are better than he. He ought to have been removed
long ago. When writing this the Mary has just come in,
and the captain reports that he has, according to my
instructions, removed Paiwaini, of Darnley, to Masig, and
placed Tuuanga, a Samoan, and his wife and children on
the former, and that at each place the teachers had a good
reception. On Monday at 10.50 we left Darnley, and
arrived at Murray Island 3 P.M. We got everything out of
the vessel here, and had her thoroughly cleaned fore and aft.
On January 20 we were glad to get away at daybreak, as
she had been dragging during the night, and the weather
looked stormy. We arrived at Darnley, and the following
morning (Saturday) steamed for Zamut (Dalrymple). I
landed on the Sabbath, and had service with the people.
They are sixteen all told. Three were away on a shelling
boat, and the thirteen were there. A native of the island,
named John, acts as missionary, and does his work very well.
He lived some years on Darnley, and was taught to read
there by a Lifu teacher, and on returning to his home began
mission work. He has prayers in the church every morn
ing and evening, and on Sabbaths three services. The
church was well built, having on the floor nice clean white
coral sand. Certainly the man is very ignorant, but he
knows that God is love, and Jesus loves us.
On Monday we left for Dauan, going through the
Warrior Reef by a passage not in the chart. We anchored
off the settlement about 8 p.m., and landed all our passengers.
The next forenoon we got wood and water on board, and

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232 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
away to Saibai, where we remained until the next morning.
We then started for the east, calling at Mabudauan, the
Government station, and thence to Tureture, where we
anchored. Nothing is being done, so I informed the teacher
that on my return I should remove him. On my return I
found that after we left his wife died, and he was only too
anxious to get back to his home on Saibai, where he now is.
At Bampton I met the teachers, and spoke to them of
their work, and that I expected they would have school
every day. I do wish the people of Gaziro, the eastern
village, would leave their present situation, and go on to
the mainland and live. To get to them at present is a
difficult matter, because of sandbanks and swamps.
We steamed across the right mouth of the Fly River,
to Saguane, where we dropped anchor opposite the mission
house at 4 in the afternoon. Saturday was spent in filling
up with wood for the long run across the head of the
Papuan Gulf. On Sunday we had capital services — men,
women, and children attending. I ascribe the presence of
the women to the influence of the teacher's wife. I hope
it will continue, for two-thirds of the fight is over when the
women are won to Christ.
At 10 A.M. on Monday we stood away for Orokolo, and
the following day we were anchored off our eastern mission
station in that district. We had dirty weather during the
night, and had to take in all our awnings. Fortunately
the wind was just abaft the beam, and so helped us. The
Miro did splendidly, taking very little water on board. At
Orokolo we met the Governor, Sir William MacGregor, and
a large party going west to the Namau district. The two
teachers and their wives had been very ill, and were at
Motumotu awaiting me, so that I could hold no services.
The following morning we steamed up to Vailala. I was
sorry to hear of the death of a chief who has been all
along a great friend of the teachers. He had died a few

THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO 233
weeks previously. He once visited me at Motumotu, and
seeing me always going about with a cane, on his return
home he determined I should have a heavier and a
stronger one than the one I generally carried, so he went
up the river, and got a nice straight wand, with a little
head, brought it back, and had it smoothed. My following
visit he presented me with it, saying it was better than
mine. Poor Iaupu ! I had known him for a long time, and I
have a good hope that he loved Christ, notwithstanding his
many peculiarities and superstitions. The teacher has
finished a fine weather-board house, with a verandah run
ning right round. He only wanted a wife to make it a
comfortable home.
We left on February 3 for Kerema at 9 A.M., and
anchored off the mission house at 4 P.M. The teacher and
his wife were well, and were living in a large weather-board
house with a verandah back and front. Too much time
has been given to the building of the house, and so school
and real mission work have suffered.
Leaving Kerema, we called at Karama, the cluster of
villages in Freshwater Bay. During my long absence in
Torres Straits the teacher died of influenza. I was glad to
find that the people had not stolen all his things nor broken
down the house, nor destroyed the plantation, as they often
do, according to native custom. We then steamed across
the bay to Motumotu, entering the river and anchoring at
7.30 P.M. There was great excitement and rejoicing in both
villages, and lights were everywhere, and canoes coming and
going with all sorts of news.
On the Sunday we had a really good time, and I was
much pleased with the report of the teachers, except that for
about a fortnight there had been trouble about the Sabbath.
'Tis a pity those placed in authority over us forget when
the Sabbath is, and also forget that the natives will ever

234 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
quote them as examples. For some time they have been
told by the Government officers they must not bury in
the villages, but take all the bodies to the ground selected
some distance away from the village. Though a really
good and necessary regulation, it is hard for natives to
carry out, as it is altogether against their ideas of care and
sympathy. A few acquiesced, but four bodies in a fortnight
were buried in the village. Mr. F. Lawes, the magistrate
of the Central Division, was there, and announced that the
bodies must be taken up, or if not, he would have to send
his policemen to do it. Early in the morning some natives
came to intimate that one body had been taken up and
buried right outside, shortly others followed to say the
same had been done with all the bodies. The first reported
was all right, but the others had only the sand covering
turned up a little. When the attempt to deceive was found
out by sticking spears in the graves, the natives took it in
good part, and set to, and in the presence of the police
removed all the bodies. My only words on the Sunday
night were, ' We must have no trouble.' I confess I was
astonished at the change in the people. A year or two ago,
and it would mean bows and arrows versus Martini-Henry
rifles. They are not cowed, and do not give the appearance
of being such, but they are changed.
In 1 89 1, when walking from Motumotu to Oiapu, I was
accompanied by a great crowd of them, all armed, and
certainly looking a very formidable army ; but during
the days we were together there was no robbing of
plantations, and never an ill word said, in any of the
villages we passed through. At our last open-air service
at Oiapu, I was going to Maiva in a canoe, they were going
to Mekeo ; I begged of them to behave themselves, and I
hoped on my return to hear they had done so. Several
spoke, saying things were altogether changed, that they
had come along from Motumotu, and there was no robbing,

THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO 235
and they would continue so, and I am glad to say they
did. Don't misunderstand me, they are not Christians,
converts, nor catechumens.
There was much to do, so I did not get away until
Wednesday, the 8th. I called at Lese, but finding they had
not built the church, nor did the children come to school, I
refused to land, and spoke as plainly as possible to the
teacher and those who came off. We anchored at Yokea,
and I visited our new grounds there, and was greatly
delighted with the work done. A fine large bungalow and
six cottages were finished, and plantations connected with
each cottage cleared and planted. The institution grounds
are about a mile and a half from the village, which is a
good thing. God grant it maybe a home of much life, light
and real work ! I was sorry I had to speak to the teacher
about neglecting work, but they have been busy with the
church, which is now finished, and I hope my next visit will
be more satisfactory.
We left Yokea on the 9th, taking with us a sick teacher
and his wife for change. The teacher at Oiapu western
villages was at Yokea ill, and the fine young teacher at the
eastern villages has recently lost his wife in giving birth to
a child, so I did not stay there, but took Ola, the young
teacher, on board, and proceeded to Maiva. Ola's wife was
an excellent woman, and a daughter of the first New Guinea
convert, who is a deacon in the church at Port Moresby.
The deacon has three daughters in the mission field, and
I long to see his son a converted man, and also engaged in
mission work. In the death of Ola's wife we have lost a
good Christian woman and earnest worker.
" When off Maiva the weather looked bad, and I decided
simply to call and then hurry away to Hall Sound, where
we should get safe anchorage. We just got to anchor in
time, for it began to rain and blow, and continued so until
Saturday at noon.

236 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
On Saturday I took canoe and got round to Cape
Suckling, and then away inland to Naara, where I remained
until Monday. I can only speak well of this station. Good
progress has been made in teaching, and many new ones
can read. The Sabbath observance reminded me of an old
station in the South Seas, and the prayer meetings on the
Saturday evening, and several times on the Sabbath, of
many refreshing seasons I have had many years ago. The
church was crowded at each service ; simply everybody
was there but three sick ones. There were four, two men
and their wives, ready for baptism. I think they are good,
earnest people. The women could read fluently, the men
slowly. After baptism we had the Lord's Supper, and a
very refreshing season it was. The chieftainess, Koloka,
and her husband, were most attentive, and reminded one
much of kind, loving chiefs and chieftainesses in Eastern
Polynesia. On Monday I returned to Delena, calling at Keabada,
where Ikupa, our teacher, is. His wife is a daughter of the
deacon. I was not so well pleased with the school. We
had an intensely interesting prayer meeting in the teacher's
fine new house, when those who were to be baptized engaged
in prayer. There were five seeking baptism, and on
examination I could not but baptize them. Two of them
were women, for which I felt really thankful. All were
present at the service, and I feel sure the appeals made by
the men, after they were baptized, will be blessed to others.
I fear the backwardness of the school arises from the
great demand for sandal-wood by traders, this being the
district where it is chiefly found. Before daybreak, old
and young have been away cutting the wood and carrying
it in. We left Delena on Tuesday, the 14th, and arrived at
Port Moresby at 4 P.M. We visited Tupuslei with a
picnic party, and a few days after carried, to their great

A NEW GUINEA GRAVE

338 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
delight, about one hundred and fifty children to Boera,
where they regaled themselves on large supplies of rice.
On our return voyage we left Port Moresby on Thursday,
the 23rd, but the weather turned out so stormy that we had
to remain at Boera, twelve miles west of Port, until the
Saturday morning, arriving at Delena late at night. We
had a really good Sabbath here. In the forenoon we elected
Goani, a good, staid fellow, as deacon. He spent nearly
two years with us at Motumotu, but feeling he was too
old, I returned him to his home. He is a fine man, and I
believe a thoroughly godly one. There are thirteen here
awaiting baptism. Several of them I had seen before ;
some I have known for years ; and all of them have been
regular attenders at all services for a long time. I saw them
all, and decided to baptize them. In the afternoon the
church was crowded. We had several meetings for prayer
during the day — prayer for the evidence of the Holy Spirit's
presence with us, and for a real baptismal time, nor were
we disappointed. We began with a short .service, at which
I gave an address, and then those to be baptized took part,
some engaging in prayer, and others saying a few. words.
After baptizing them we had the Lord's Supper, a season
to be remembered in future. In the evening, at family
prayers, we had the whole population present, and instead
of the ordinary service we turned it into a thorough good
prayer meeting. On the Monday I held the school exami
nation, and all I can say is, it is better than last year, but
by no means what it ought to be. The sandal-wood trade
is also brisk here, and I fear the teacher has got smitten
with the easy mode of making money ; but more of that
hereafter. Getting wood and water on board, we steamed away on
Tuesday morning to Maiva, where I landed in the after
noon. At Tipoki's station on the coast we had several
meetings and a school examination, and I was better

THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO

239

pleased with the work done than I have been for some
years. Tipoki, the teacher, has been very ill with rheuma
tism and sores for about nine months ; still, he and his wife
have been able to do more than formerly.
Thirteen, who have been a long time seeking baptism,
were baptized, amongst them several women. There was
a good deal of enthusiasm at the meetings, which I trust
will continue. At the western inland group of villages,
where we had a good mission, is failure. The teacher died
last August, and the people themselves have not been
able to carry on. I hope to give them another teacher this
year. At Ratu's village I baptized ten, and we had several
good meetings. The school, I fear, is not so advanced as
last year, arising from all spare time being given to the
making of copra and collecting cane for export. I fear
only a few of our teachers can resist the temptation of
making a few shillings when they can easily, and then the
schools are neglected, the teacher believing it is because
the children won't come. I walked over to Kivori, where we
had good services, especially at Rarua's station, where I
baptized six good young men and two women and three
children. I was much pleased with the school. At Vagi's
station things were not so bright as they were last year ;
but that, I felt sure, was the teacher's fault, and told him
so. Altogether though, I was pleased with Kivori, and
hope soon to have several students at Yokea from there.
I called again at Oiapu, and landed Ola and his boy,
and at Yokea we filled up with wood. Finding that Terai
and all the students and their wives had gone on to
Motumotu, I followed on Friday, calling at Lese, where I
found a good new church had been put up ; and the people
had thought over what I had said to the teacher and those
with him on my way up. We had a good service, and
then away to our old home, where we anchored in the

240 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
river at mid-day. Preparations had been made for a really
good time, and so I give you the account of the following
Sabbath. The Saturday prayer meetings were earnest ones,
especially as I had informed four of the students they were
to be set apart on the morrow to Christ's work, and the
following week I should take three of them to stations.
The excitement was great ; supplies of various kinds were
given out to each. For some time several Motumotuans
who have been much with us, and have helped us latterly
in meetings, had intimated their desires to join the insti
tution ; so, after meeting with each student going out, I had
to meet with each one wishing to join. How thoroughly
I enjoyed it all, and how I wished my wife, who has done
much and been greatly blessed in bringing this state of
things about, had been present with us ! Late on Saturday
night all the teachers and their wives met me for a meet
ing for prayer and consecration. There were present six
teachers and their wives.
The final service on the Sabbath was for prayer, and
both places were well attended. The forenoon services
were crowded, and reference was made to the work before
us. There were five to be baptized — four men and one
woman, the first woman in the whole of the Elema district.
She said to me the night before, when leaving with her
husband, ' Tamate, I do love Jesus, and I do want always
to love Him.'
At 1 1 o'clock, the large class-room in the institution
grounds was crowded, a space being left in front for those
to be baptized to occupy. How eagerly the proceedings
were watched by all present ! The men to be baptized
were in downright earnest, and I hope some of them will
become good workers for Christ. I baptized them, and gave
them the right hand of fellowship in receiving them into
Christ's membership. We then had the Lord's Supper, a

THE FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO 241
season that will not soon be forgotten by any one
present. We began the afternoon with a meeting for prayer, and
at 3.30 met again in the class-room. Each student to be
set apart gave a short address, in which he related how he
was led to love Jesus, and how he came to desire the work
of an evangelist. Some of our older teachers spoke to the
point in urging entire consecration. The prayers were
made in three languages, and there were as many as four
languages used in the addresses. I arranged it so that
everyone present might understand. Although the
service lasted for an hour and a half, not one seemed
tired. At 5.30 there was another meeting, when I absented
myself, to give all more scope for a downright good time.
The house was packed, and the young teachers and others,
and one or two who have not signified any drawings to
Christ, I hear spoke good earnest words. To me it was
certainly a great day. God grant many such days may be
known in Elema !
We anchored off Karama at 8.15, and at once landed
with Ume and his wife, one of the young couples set apart
on the Sabbath, who were to occupy the station vacated by
the death of the South Sea Island teacher. They had a
right good reception. We had a short service in the
house, and the chief and people promised to be kind to
them. From Karama we steamed away to Kerema, and there
I landed Ikupu and his wife, to occupy the western group
of villages. The few people who were at home were de
lighted to get a teacher, and they too promised to assist
them in every way. We anchored for the night off the
eastern station.
The following morning we were away early, and before
mid-day we were at Vailala. Coming to an anchor we got
Q

242 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
very quietly on to a bank, so quietly that I was the only
one on board who felt her go on. The tide was falling
fast, so we remained there. I went ashore and placed
Naime and wife at the mission house on the eastern bank,
where a Polynesian was for a few months before he died.
The people knew Naime well, from his being so often with
me when visiting them, and were glad to have him. His
wife was a Yokea girl, and a very earnest, intelligent
Christian. She soon had many claiming relationship. When
I returned to the vessel the teacher from the western bank
was on board, and ready to start with the Orokolo teachers
and their wives that we had picked up at Motumotu. The
news having soon reached Orokolo that the teachers were
at Vailala, many came in to carry them away at once.
It was nearly midnight, and in a gale of wind and heavy
rain we pulled the Miro off, not knowing until next morn
ing we had left the rudder behind. We got her over and
on to the eastern bank, and found the stern-post must have
been broken for some time, so giving too much to the
weight of the rudder. I offered a reward, and a dozen
canoes started, and in half an hour returned with the
rudder. It was evident there had been a flaw in the
casting, and which must have been seen, for it had been
brazed over. The engineer turned to and fixed the stern-
post, and by Saturday had the rudder ready to swing. All
was finished, and we were ready for an early start on Mon
day morning. Sunday I spent ashore between the two
stations. I forgot to mention that I had obtained for the
teacher's home the one ornament that could make it
homely — a good wife — and they were married on the day of
our arrival. The woman was a widow of one of our
Motumotu teachers, and since her husband's death has
lived a quiet, useful life at Yokea.
We weighed anchor at 5 on Monday morning, and
steamed away west, hoping to enter the river, and yet

THE' FIRST TRIP OF THE LAUNCH MIRO 243
doubting as to its safety with our patched rudder. On
anchoring off the Aivei, the bar looked bad, and I decided
to keep on towards Bald Head, and then steer across the
head of the Gulf to the Midge Isles.
Sir William MacGregor and a large party came in some
hours after us from the Midge Isles, where they had been
taking prisoners for attacking a neighbouring tribe, and he
was anxious I should return and comfort those remaining.
I certainly should have done so, but I had to be in Thursday
Island by the 23rd, to catch the schooner for Kwato, China
Straits. We arrived at Dauan on the Saturday, and got ready
for going into Thursday Island. The Sabbath was a high
day for the natives. It was long since they had an oppor
tunity of all meeting a white missionary on a Sabbath.
Fortunately all were in from Boigou. The day was fully
occupied to the great delight of all. I baptized 23 men
and women, and 30 little children, and we had the ordi
nance — I fancy the first ever administered there.
At night I was detained to answer questions, and set
some matters right.
We arrived at Thursday Island on the 22nd, to find
the Myrtle had not arrived from New Guinea. I was sorry
I had not gone back to comfort the Waboda (Midge Isles)
natives, and arrange for a mission station. We had all had
attacks of fever, mine having been sharp for a few days.

Q2

244 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA

CHAPTER XII
THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER
FOUR expeditions have ascended the Fly River during
the last twenty years, and on each occasion the natives
appeared in numerous canoes, and bore down on the
expeditions as if to attack them, so that they had to fire.
I was strongly advised not to go near these people, but
felt I could not return to Britain and leave them unvisited
and unfriendly.
On leaving Sumai to visit the unfriendly tribes on the
Fly River, I took the teacher Mapa, and Edea, the
appointed government chief, and Agia of Auti, a small
village two miles farther up than Sumai, as interpreters.
Anxious to get on, we steamed past Baramura, telling the
people on a canoe that on our return we should visit them.
Coming near to some islands, we saw a village on the right
bank, and so steamed in for it. We had difficulty in finding
the passage, but moving slowly we carried two fathoms,
then a fathom and a half, going down to 4 feet 6 inches. It
was then a critical time, as several canoes were bearing
down on us. Only one I allowed alongside, and would
only have two men on board, ordering the canoe to keep
off. After some anxiety we got into deeper water, and
eventually to four fathoms, when I found a present for the
two men, and so made friends.
We steamed up against the current for some distance,
and dropped anchor opposite an opening in the bush. On
landing we were taken charge of and conducted into the

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246 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
bush, to a place where there were several small temporary
buildings, in place of the very large house recently burned
down. The excitement was great, as they had never
before seen v/hite men, except at rifle range, and now they
saw and touched. The noise and shouting were great,
and to an excitable and imaginative person it might have
appeared that the hour of our doom had come. We were, as
always, unarmed, having only a walking stick, which is
useful in going over native bridges and for long walks.
Some of the men were very evil-looking, and the women,
who were gathered in the houses — the few we saw — were
not at all prepossessing. A few of the men had been to
Sumai, and had obtained in exchange for yams, taro, bows-
and arrows, old filthy shirts, and they certainly looked
fearful guys.
We held a service in front of the houses, at which
Mapa spoke as interpreter for me, but I fear he was not
understood. When Edea and Agia spoke and prayed, all
seemed to understand them, and gave audible assent to
their statements. How strange it must be for tribes such
as these, when they hear for the first time ' The Great
Spirit is love,' and loves them !
We got on to the small verandah of one of the houses,
and with difficulty passed presents on to the women and
children inside. All looked as if a bath would do them
good. It may be they are afraid of crocodiles, and so
bathe very seldom. Many of the men wear the hair in
long small ringlets, as at Domori, some distance down the
river on the left bank. These ringlets are the growth of
years, and matted with dirt. A few of them have beards,
some very long and wound round on the chin to a knot.
I bought one, two feet long, cut it off myself, and folded it
away in brown paper.
There were some very suspicious movements — groups
consulting, men going to the houses, and a noise of arrows

THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER 247
being handled ; and so after a little we thought it advisable
to get back to the launch.
We were not disturbed during the night, and being
anxious to get on were early astir, and ready for a start.
I had arranged the evening before with two men, Savopo
and Duma, to accompany us, and to introduce us to other
villages farther up the river. Just at dawn natives were
seen on the bank, and soon after our two friends came off.
Getting up anchor we steamed along the bank for a few
miles, and came to shallow water. There we anchored,
some distance from the one large house village of Aduru.
We soon had over one hundred and fifty canoes around
us, and on an average four men in each canoe, and all
shouting at their loudest. We could not keep them from
crowding on board, and at one time it was very uncomfort
able, and they seemed as if they meant to be unpleasant.
I was ill with fever, and did not feel inclined to land, and
also thought it advisable to remain on the launch, so that
if trouble arose I should be at hand. The engineer and
interpreters landed, remaining for some time, and on their
return reported the place to be swampy and full of strong
smells. A young man, Zagai, whom they called a chief, I
made friends with by means of a present, and prevailed on
him to accompany us up the river. But his people were
much opposed to it, and at one time became very noisy on
board about it. I gave them to understand I would not
take him, and he then, in his turn, became angry with them,
and told them he would go with the white man.
I asked all to leave, but to that they objected, and I
then gave orders to weigh anchor and go ahead. As soon
as our visitors felt the launch moving, there was a rush for
the canoes. The young chief remained, undertaking to
become our pilot ; but his knowledge of what water we
drew was deficient, and as he had never had any experience
of anything else than a canoe, he was of no use. We kept

248 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
the lead going, but could find no channel deep enough, so
had to make our way round by Pisirame, and out by that
channel into the main stream.
When near to Pisirame I saw a canoe coming off to
us, and our friends from there, with the young chief from
Aduru, were getting ready to leave us. Savopo came to
me and said, ' Tamate, I want to land, as my wife is crying
bitterly.' I said, ' Tell the man in the canoe to tell your
wife Savopo is all right.' They were suspicious of our
back movement, and so were alarmed, but I resolved they
should remain on board to introduce us farther up, to
receive our kindness, and learn to have confidence in us.
I therefore ordered ' full speed,' and we shot past the canoe
and left it far behind. On getting to the main stream we
headed up the river, and our friends became more confident,
and went about the launch as if long acquainted with us.
The stoke-hole and engine-room greatly interested them,
but they would not go below.
I remember once, on board of the old Ellengowan, the
New Guinea mission steamer, I was taking back a man and
his wife and another native to their homes in the Gulf of
Papua. After much persuasion, the two men consented to
go down into the stoke-hole. Before they descended there
was a great embracing of husband and wife, and a very
affectionate farewell ; and then the first solemnly went down.
He looked around until the furnace door was opened, when
never was that ladder more quickly ascended. On getting
on deck again he threw himself into his wife's arms, and
both cried, hugging one another with great joy. The
other man, the woman's brother, took a long and affectionate
farewell of his sister, and left her his bag of valuables — he
fancied he might not return. On going down he kept
looking ahead for the furnace door but it not being opened,
he got down, and had a good look about. There was
nothing more to see, when the stoker opened the door to

THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER 249
show him the inside, but he was on deck in a twinkling.
The three of them sat with their arms round each other,
their heads together, and crying profusely. It was amusing
to see how proud the woman was of their feat, saying to
me, 'Tamate, they are the bravest in all Elema'— the Gulf
district. A similar thing happened with Koapena, the Aroma
chief, when visiting a man-of-war. He was greatly inter
ested in all he saw, and was descending just after me into
the stoke-hole, when a furnace door was opened. Instantly
he sprang up the ladder, disappeared over the side into a
canoe and made for the shore. Nothing would induce him
to return. He once told me he would like to accompany
me, but his wives objected ; and he asked if I would take
them off and show them the vessel, for then it would be all
right. We were to start for Cloudy Bay in the morning,
and I told him to bring them on board when he came. In
the morning he came with his food and a pig for the
journey, accompanied by his two wives and daughter. All
went well, the anchor was being weighed, and I felt sure
we had our big friend. The wives and daughter were
getting ready to go into the canoe, and just then the stoker
opened the furnace door ; the women hearing the noise
below looked down and saw the great flaming fire. There
was one fearful yell, a loud call for Koapena, and in a few
seconds he and all of them were in the canoe and hurrying
to the shore.
We steamed up to Tagota, but saw no house where we
expected one, as marked on the chart, the inmates having
gone a little farther up the river, and back into the bush.
When our governor, Sir William MacGregor, ascended
the river, the natives came out, apparently to oppose his
progress, and they were turned back. The governor after
wards landed and met some of them. We steamed up to
where we saw natives working at a canoe. They all fled

250 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
into the bush. Coming to an anchor we got our friend
Zagai to shout for the chief, whose name was Aipi, and to
tell them we were friends. After a while a man came out
on to the bank and called to us that Aipi was not there,
but Waria was. Zagai then told him we were good friends,
and that ' Tamate the white man wanted to see Waria.'
Soon a small canoe was put into the river, and one man
got into it, whom Zagai said was Waria. It was amusing
to watch him. He would paddle a little, then consider,
hear what was said from the bush, and what Zagai had to
say, then a few more strokes, and another stop. Zagai was
greatly amused, he having got over all fear, and being now
the white man's friend he seemed to be assuring Waria that
it was all right. At length Waria came alongside, a native
took hold of his canoe and made it fast to the launch. He
stepped on board trembling all over, but on getting seated
and receiving a small present he became bolder, and told
us how frightened they were ashore, but no, he was not
frightened. We sent Zagai and the down-river interpreters
ashore in the canoe, and ourselves landed in the dingey.
The village was some distance in the bush, and there
were several small swamps to be crossed on logs that were
very slippery. On reaching the village called Baisasarara,
the women and children were not to be seen, being shut
up in the houses ; but after giving Waria to understand
that we must make friends with the women and children
as well as the men, we soon had them all out, and gave
them small parcels of red beads.
We held a service, but I fear not much was understood.
When the fear had passed off they became excited and
very noisy. They all accompanied us to the boat. I
could not get Waria to come with us up the river, and the
others, those from Pisirame, and Zagai from Aduru,
decidedly objected to go on board if we went any farther.
The presents I had given them, with a bit of pork, they

THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER 251
had left on board, and they came off for these in a canoe
that was to take them back. I again tried to persuade
them, but it was of no use, and so I decided to take them
to their homes. They were greatly delighted with that
decision, and on getting to their homes would no doubt
magnify all they saw, but more especially tell of our
taking them back when they objected to go any farther.
We spent Sunday near to Pisirame, and on the Monday
morning weighed anchor and proceeded up the river again
to Tagota, hoping still to persuade Waria to accompany
us. When near to our former anchorage we saw a canoe
with three natives in it, one standing up and shouting.
It proved to be Aipi, the chief we had been inquiring for,
and with him was a native from Domori who knew me ;
both at once came boldly on board. With them was a
son of Aipi. We anchored and a canoe came off. Waria
was in the bush behind the village, and so we got Aipi and
the Domari man and two strange men to accompany us
from Tagota.
We steamed up the river for some miles, against a
strong current, until we came to where there were two
creeks, one running south and the other west. We
anchored a little way up, in ten fathoms of water, but
the debris coming down was so great that we had to
remove to another anchorage a little farther down, and
near to the creek running south, and called Maupa. The
village Kewarmuni is on the small creek which I believe
runs no distance into the mainland. Maupa, they told us,
runs some distance into the land and breaks into two, one
branch bends again to the river, and comes out between
Adura and Tagota, just inside the islands. Where does
the other go ? Perhaps into the Maikasa. The
Kewarmuni natives were slow in coming off, but on
getting their first canoe alongside we were soon friends
and many other canoes followed.

252 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
The man of most importance was Darom, and when he
got over his fear, and came on board and received a
present, he was greatly astonished at all he saw, and was
soon followed by many. The men alongside and on board
all had skin disease as bad as the worst cases at the east
end of New Guinea.
We landed and found one long house and five smaller.
In the latter were all the women and children, the doors
barricaded with wood. Nothing would induce them to let
the women and children out to receive presents of beads.
It is quite possible our companions from down the river
had frightened them with some stories, so as to prevent
them getting beads, and being on an equality with their
wives and children.
We held a service in the large house, but I am afraid
not much was understood. On going to the vessel we
were followed by canoes, in which were many natives, and
three small pigs.. When alongside they proceeded to kill
the pigs by drowning, but I stopped that, and got them on
board. I believe drowning is their mode of killing the
Pig- While ashore we saw several drums like those I got from
the Busilag, near to the mouth of the Maikasa. We tried
to induce them to part with one, but not even a tomahawk
would persuade them to do so. We heard several names
of people corresponding to those on Saibai and Mabuiag in
Torres Straits.
We took back the two natives to Baisasarara, and the
following day renewed our exploration with Aipi and Ona.
The latter claimed particular friendship, and proved the
best interpreter I yet had on the river. In going up we
found many long shallow sandbanks towards the left bank,
but on the right side deep water.
We anchored near to a high bank, where there were
houses, named Digana, but on landing found them tumbling

THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER 253
to pieces, with creepers growing over them, and having
the appearance of having been long ago deserted. We
have noticed that where there are villages, bundles of twigs
fastened together and looking like brooms are made fast to
the tops of the highest trees. At night it would be
very necessary to have these marks, so as not to pass the
landings. Weighing anchor again we proceeded up the river until
we came to another large creek. It is possible this creek
may find its way to the river Morehead, near the boundary
on the west of British New Guinea. We could only get a
very little information ; they told us it went far away, but
that no one had ever been down to the mouth. There is
a village up the creek on the left bank, called Jauna.
We anchored off the mouth of the creek. Soon we saw
numbers of men armed in the banana plantation at the
point. Some left their arms and came down the bank to
the water's edge, whilst the greatest number remained
carrying their bows and arrows, and ready for whatever
might take place. Very cautiously a canoe was seen
coming down the creek, and with a good deal of shouting,
inviting them alongside, we prevailed on them to come.
Then another followed, and soon we had several. I got
into a canoe and ordered my interpreters to come with me ;
the dingey was to follow some time after. I fancied we
were safer in the canoe, and it gave the natives more
confidence in us. Paddling up the creek I saw the natives
on the bank handling their bows and placing arrows, and I
protested through the interpreters against this manner of
receiving friends. There was a great deal of shouting and
a spurt of paddling, until we got to the village. I landed,
and having got the chief's name I called for him, and in
his presence emphatically protested against the men with
arms lining the bank. Ona assisted, saying I was a great
friend of the Domori chiefs, and was a man of peace, and

254 LIFE AND WORK IN NEW GUINEA
that our ' fire canoe ' was a ' peace canoe.' The women and
children were all hidden away in houses in the bush close
by, and on approaching near to them I was asked to go no
farther, so I returned to the one large house where all the
men were. It was probably fear that made them hide the
women and children, but it might also have been a sacred
time, as there was a large feast in progress, and drums were
about, as if in use, and at such times women and children
are not supposed to be near the men. March and April are
the moons when the young men of the Fly River tribes are
initiated into manhood.
The leading man's name is Dunda. Another was
also introduced to me named Sera, but his influence did
not seem so great as that of the former. There must be a
large population somewhere in the neighbourhood, con
sidering the number of young men that lined the banks of
the creek. There were many plantations of bananas and
yams, and these looked well with crotons of various kinds
growing amongst them.
I gave Dunda and Sera presents and promised them
teachers, which I hope will yet be accomplished. The
large house was crowded with men, old and young, during
our service, and although they were all very quiet, yet few,
I fear, understood what was said.
Getting on board we weighed anchor and steamed still
farther up the river, but could find no traces of villages.
At Kamkamura, beyond Howling Point, we hoped we
might see natives, but Aipi and Ona told us that some
time ago the Jauna natives, assisted by other tribes down
the river, attacked these at this part, and since then .they
had gone right away back into the bush. Ona went ashore,
but could find no traces ; even the old footpaths were quite
grown over.
My time was up, so we decided to return down the river,
having accomplished the object for which we came — to

THE MIRO ON THE FLY RIVER 255
make friends, and so open the way for the introduction of
the Gospel.
On our way down we called at Baramura, and were well
received by the chief and all the people. We were much
struck with the very fine plantations of yams and bananas.
Each plantation was well drained, and all the water drawn
off into the creek. We held a service in the large house,
and at the close told the chief and people that we hoped
they would soon have a teacher and his wife living with
them. On leaving, the women and children met us outside,
and to each we gave a small present of red beads. All the
men accompanied us to the vessel, and said on parting :
' Return soon, and bring our teacher.'

THE END.

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