YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

'Y^LEoWMWIEI^SinrY"

Gilt r,i
Mrs. E. K. Hr;i(ll(>_\
1917

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THE SOLDIER IN MEXICO.

J^WI'iOJBIECX&mJ^IPIHW

UNITED STATES AHMT,

STRINGER & TOWNSEND, NEW-YORK.
1853.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY

ENGLISH SOLDIER

UNITED STATES ARMY.

OOMPEISING

OBSERVATIONS AND ADVENTURES

STATES AND MEXICO.

NEW YORK:
STRINGER & TOWNSEND, 222 BROADWAY.
1853.

Gt'?3.l7l
Copi I

a. CRAIGHEAD, PKINTEB AND STEREOTYPER,
53 Vesey street. New York.

^mtxicnn fwUislur f nfan.

DuEiwG the discussion in the Senate of the United
States, upon the bill to confer, additional military
rank upon General Winfield Scott, in acknowledg
ment of his great, services to his country, General
Shields remarked that no worthy history of the
Mexican war had yet been written. T,he truth of
the observation was everywhere felt. What has
hitherto, appeared on the subject, beyond the official
despatches, has more resembled romance than his
tory, being in the main confined to dashing narra
tives of the personal adventures of roving or belli
gerent Hotspurs, who knew little aud cared less about
the discipline and routine of the every-day life of the
regular soldier ; or on the other hand to eulogistic
compilations, prepared for sale, rather than as contri-

VI PREFACE.
butions to history. The writers of both classes have
" cast discreetly into shade" whatever would " offend
the eye" of the readers they sought to appreciate.
As a partial remedy for the evil complained of by
the gallant officer above referred to, the publishers
put forth the present volume. If it does not rise to
the dignity of history, it at least partakes of that
faithfulness of record and clearness of detail which
give history its value. The author is manifestly
superior to that class of his countrymen ordinarily
found in the rank and file of an army, in intelligence,
in education, in observation, in descriptive and nar
rative power, and in candor and liberality of senti
ment. Something of foreign misapprehension, pos
sibly some-degree of foreign preference or prejudice,
may be found in his pages ; and it is by no means
improbable that some of his criticisms upon men and
events may be unjust ; but there is throughout the
volume an -evident desire to be just as well as inde
pendent, both in criticism arid in narration.
The publishers confidently express the opinion, in
which they are conflrmed by the verdict of the lite
rary gentlemen to whom the work has been submitted

PBEFACE. vn
for supervision, not only that nothing has yet issued
from the American press that gives so intelligent and
lively a ^description of the actualities of the war in
Mexico, but that no work is extant in the English
language which presents bo interesting a picture of a
soldier's life — his round of conversation, his employ
ments, his toils, dangers, and escapes — what he sees
and does, and how he does it — as this autobiography.
The reader will find it difficult to part company with
the authiot. There is no " fine writing" to pall upon
the taste. Everything is told naturally, and every
thing is described earnestly. The style is nervous
yet chaste, and free from the coarseness which too
often disfigures a soldier's narrative. Yet there is
no sentimentality. The manliness of the true soldier
is apparent on every page. The charm of the work
is in the impressive distinctness of every picture of
place or incident. The reader will feel as though he
accompanied the hardy soldier from the moment of
his enlistment to that of his discharge ; messing with
him on Governor's Island, marching with him to
join the forces under General Scott, sleeping with
him on the mountain side, where the bed is made

PREFACE.

softer by putting aside some of the larger stones, cir-
cuitoiisly approaching the scene of action, exchanging
a repartee or a word of encouragement with a com
rade, mingling in the m^lee, and finally entering the
city of Mexico in triumph, and realizing all the pecu
liarities of its buildings and its people. So vividly
is every scene painted that a stranger, with the
volume as his guide, might trace the entire route of
the American army through Mexico, locate every
bivouac, and comprehend every manoeuvre or military
movement. The publishers feel assured that this
commendation of the volume will be verified by every
intelligent reader of its pages.

€mUulB.

Pago
CHAPTER I.

I arrive in Ifew York, aiid make several strange acqnaiut-

9

CHAPTER II.
My first exp'erience as an American- soldier, and attendaice
at military punishment, - - -. - - - It

CHAPTER III.
Embarkation at the Battery — Yankee opinion of Soldiers —
Fort Adams — New comrades — Defects of organization —
Eontine of duties — Life in quarters - - - 30

i CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Fort Adams-^Provid-enoe' — Robbing the Or
chard — Bostons-Life in- a Transport-^The Captain arid the
Nigger, -  - - . - ,43
CHAPTER V.
The Soldier at Sea, .-•.... 61

X CONTENTS. Page
CHAPTER VI.
A Modern Soldier of Fortune, .... - 66
CHAPTER VII.
Land in Sight — ^Pensacola Bay — Fort Pickens — Kough Lodg
ings—Smuggling Whiskey — ^A Carouse, - - - 86
CHAPTER VIII.
The Surprise— Doctor Brown — ^Fishing at Pensacola— Bathers
and Sharks, - - - - - - 92
CHAPTER IX.
Tampa Bay — Indian Paradise — Beautiful Squaws — ^Forest Life
— ^The Hummocks — Snakes— Rumours of TVar — ^Lost in the
Wood, - ... 100
CHAPTER X.
General Scott — ^The Coast of Mexico — ^A jolly Captain — -A
Gale of Wind— The Kiver- Tampico, - - - - 121

CHAPTER XI.
The Town and its Population — Reinforcements — General
Shields — Bill Nutt as Orderly — ^Expedition to Vera Cruz, 137

CHAPTER XII.
Sacrificios — ^The debarkation — A bivouac — A night alarm, - ] 46

CHAPTER XIII.
General Scott — ^The Shell — Naval sporting — ^Investment of
Vera Cruz — ^Vergara — Spoiling the knapsacks, . iga
CHAPTER XIV.
A prophecy fulfilled— The bombardment— Yiait to Vera Cruz, 162

CONTENTS. XI
Page
CHAPTER XV.
Sickness — March on Jalapa — Position of the enemy — Order
to attack — ^The counter-order and its effect, ... 16'/

CHAPTER XVI.
Arrival of General Scott — Ascent of the ravine — ^The charge
— ^The loan of a pip^ — Colonel Harney — General PiUow —
Bill Crawford — Victory, - .... 177

CHAPTER XVII.
After the battle — ^The wounded — Mexican surgeons — The
litter of dead — An unexpected regale, ... 190

CHAPTER XVIII.
Santa Anna's leg — Distribution of spirits^Colonel Childs —
Interring the dead — iMarch to Jalapa, - - 197

CHAPTER XIX.
Santa Anna's house — Aspect of the country — The ladies of
Jalapa — ^A Mexican funeral — ^Description of the city — ^The
priesthood — Procession of the Host — Paying the troops, - 203
CHAPTER XX.
Departure from Jalapa — Deserters — On the march — Captain
"Walker — Perote — ^Tepe Agualco — Puebla, - - 215

CHAPTER XXI.
Puebla — Convents and Public Buildings — Newspaper Gene
rals — ^An Indian City — San Martin — -Valley of Mexico, - 231
CHAPTER XXII.
San Augustine — Reconnoissance — Guard-house luxuries — ^A
convivial party — An unexpected interruption, . - - 239

xu CONTENTS. Page
CHAPTER XXIII.
The Field of Battle— King's Mill— The Execution— The Pur-
sniti - -  - 249

CHAPTER XXIV.
Bavages of WaTTr-Entry into San Cosmo — Character of the
Population — ^Markets — The cemetery, - - 265
CHAPTER XXV.
Conelusioii, -- ...... 281

AUTOBIOGRAPHY

ENGLISH SOLDIER IN THE U. S. AMY.

, CHAPTER I.
I arrive iu New York, and make several'strange acquaintances.
I LEFT home for the United States ip the summer of 1845,
for the same reason that yearly sends so many thousands-
there, want of employment. I had both read, and heard a
gdod deal about America, and knew that money oould not
be picked up in the streets there, any more than at home ; but
I was scarcely prepared to find the scramble for the means of
living so fierce and incessant, as I found it in New York.
Being a handloom weaver, I called on several persons be
longing to that business, and from the same town as myself,
Paisley, in the west of Scotland. They told me they had to
work very hard to earn three dollars and a half, or at most,
four dollars a week ; while loom rent and other expenses,
with loss of time, changing and putting in new sorts of work,
reduced their wages to an average of less than three dollars,
or about twelve shillings a week. There were some weavers
in carpet factories in Philadelphia they told me, and also a
few in New York, who earned five or six dollars a week ; but
only a few could find employment at these places, which
1*

10 ADVENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
were also .subject to periods of stagnation of business, when
the cost of living soon exhausted the savings of those who
were provident enough to save a httle for a rainy day. They
generally, while informing me of plenty of places where I
might find employment at weaving, such as it was, adAosed
me to try and find enaploymeiit as a labourer in preference ;
which some of them declared their intention of doing as
soon as they had finished their engagements.
While walking along the wharfe at the East Eiver one
morning, my attention was arrested by a placard above one
of the shops which front Brooklyn, stating, in the usual
Brobdignagian typography of these annoimcements, that one
hundi-ed able-bodied men were wanted for whaling. AppU
cants were directed to walk up stairs. With a vague idea
that possibly a South Sea voyage might answer my peculiar
situation, I walked up and presented myself to a man whom
I found sitting at a desk in a large room, barely furnished,
and very dirty. I asked him if he could inform me as to the
terms of engagement. " I can't do anything else,'' he re
plied, as he got up from his desk, and coming close up to
me, asked if I meant to join the money-making business of
whaling. He was a small cadaverous looking being, with
sandy hair, sallow complexion, and red eyes that glittered like
a ferret's, as ^^ou caught an occasional glimpse of them from
behind a pair of green spectacles. I told him in reply, that
I was out of employment, and not particularly nice as to
what I tried, if I were able for it, and it promised tolerable
pay. " Ah !" said he, " Stranger, I guess you are in a par
ticular all fir'd streak of good luck ; we are nearly filled up,
that is a fact, but if you are in good health — let me just iook
at your arm," he continued, as he seized hold of one, feeUng
it up to the shoulder for the, purpose of testing its muscular
epndition. Being satisfied with his examination, apparently,

THE BRIGHT SIDE OF WHALING. 11
he asked me if I was an American citizen. I told him I was
not, having only arrived in the country a few weeks before.
" That is no matter," said he, winking one of the ferret eyes,
" I can fix that right away." He then congratulated me
upon being in a fair way to make my fortune, and informed
me that the men employed in whaling were paid by shares,
whioh they called lays, and that their wages were propor
tionate to their luck. He had known a young man have
eight hundred, or a thousand dollars for his share, or lay, in
a voyage that did not last over eighteen months. A whale
ship would have very bad luck if the men aboard of her did
not clear three or four hundred doUars a year. Bad health
alone, he said, had prevented him from going a voyage or
two ; and so he went on with a great deal more to the same
efiect, most of which I thought too good to be true. Thank
ing him, however, for his information, and promising to caU
again after thinking the matter over, I left the ofiice. I can't
deny that his statements niade a considerable impression on
me at the time, though of course I believed that he greatly
exaggerated. Still it is probable that I would have doubled
Cape Horn in one of these whalers, perhaps touching at
Nukuheva, and a few of the islands in that vicimty, and real
izing some of those scenes of enchantment of whioh the
inimitable Herman MelviUe has given such charming and
graphical descriptions in his Typee and Omoo, but for the
following incident.
Going down the steps from the office, I met in the street
one of the sailors of the ship in which I had arrived, a fine
old feUow with whom I had often had a chat during the pas
sage. After the usual salutations, he asked me if I would
help him to " splice the main brace," the nautical phrase for
taking a glass of grog. I assented, and while taking a glass
and a cigar together, he confidentially informed me that he had

12 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
considered me a Chnstian ever since the fourth of July. My
claim to this high character, which the old fellow I suppose
considered perfectly valid, rested on the foUowing rather slen
der foundation : — The night preceding the fourth of July had
been wet and stormy, the wind blowing a pretty stiflF gale. In
the Hiorning, the crew having been on deck all night, were
tired, cold, and wet ; and the vessel being on the temperance
principle, they had no grog, at which they grumbled sadly.
The .sailors were mostly Americans, and the fourth of July, the
anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, being held
as a day of jubilee and general festivity in the States, the
contrast suggested to their minds by their present condition,
made them feel the deprivation more acutely. I had brought
a small stock of whiskey with me, and not requiring it for
my own use, I served out an allowance to each man ; thus
cheaply earning the reputation of a Christian. He proceeded
to acquaint me with his having " shipped " in a vessel which
was to sail in a few days for the East Indies. He had drawn
a month's pay in advance, -for the purpose of having a spree,
as he was gping on a long voyage. " Look here, matey," said
he, " I have a few of the shiners left yet," and pulUng a hand^
ful of silver from his pocket, he insisted that I should take
part of it. I thanked him for his oflFer, which I said I would
cheerfully accept if I required it. " Avast there, mate," said
he, " did I not see you coming out of a land-shark's ofiSce
there on the wharf ?" I acknowledged having gone into an
offlce there, teUing the object of my visit, and repeated part
of the statements made by the shipping agent. "I thought
so," said Jack, with a sneer, " but listen to me, lad." He then
gave me a history of his own experience on board a whaler,
with a number of anecdotes gathered from difi'erent mess
mates, all tending to show that it was a hfe of great hardship,
with very poor vages. He strongly advised me to look for

INDUCEMENTS TO RECRUITS. 13
some other sort of emplo3Tnent, and as to sharing his money,
if I didn't it was all the same, he could pitch it into the river ;
he never carried any money on board with him when going
on a long voyage. As I was not greatly above the want of
a little pecuniary assistance, though not quite destitute of
resources, having a good suit of clothes, and other articles
easily convertible into money at my lodgings, I accepted a
dollar from him as a loan. I did this the more readily, as I
saw he would be grievously offended should I persist in re
fusing his.kind offer. " Ay, ay," said the honest and warm
hearted old feUow, as we shook hands at parting, " you and
I may happen to meet some other time, when your luck's
better than mine. If we don't, and you should ever see a
messmate on his beam ends, give him a lift, God bless you, ^
and it will do all the same."
My interview with this honest fellow having dissipated
any idea I had previously entertained of going to sea in a
whaler, I stroUed about for the remainder of the day, medi
tating on my future prospects, which presented a rather
cheerless a,spect at this juncture. Having served for a con
siderable time in the English army, from which I had
purchased my discharge about five years previously, I iinaUy
resolved, as a sort of last resource, to try five years in the
American service. The bUls advertising for recruits, stated,
that a few enterprising young men, of good character, were
wanted for the service of the United States ; and promised
good treatment, as far as physical comfort was concerned,
being somewhat to the following effect : — That soldiers of
the United States' service were provided with good quarters,
an ample suflBciency of good and wholesome diet, an abun
dant supply of clothing, and in case of sickness, the most
careful attendance, and the most skilful medical aid. The
statement concluded with the amount of money which could

14 ADVENTURES OF -A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
be saved by sergeant, corporal, or private, during their
period of five years' service, varying from four to seven
hundred dollars.
It was about the middle of August, 1845, that I called
at the jeoruiting office in Cedar street, for the purpose of
enlisting. The sergeant in charge of the establishment,
having asked me if I had been in -the British service, to
which I replied in the affirmative, said in that case he was
afraid they could not enlist me, as they had lately received
an order from Washington to that effect ; deserters from fhe
British service having generaUy turned out bad soldiers. As
I saw he was under the impression, that I was a deserter, I
explained that I had purchased my discharge, which I could
produce if required. This, he said, altered the case ; he was
going to the recruiting officer's quarters, and if I had no objec
tion he would tak^ me along with him. I went with him, and
was soon ushered into the presence of Lieutenant Burke, a tall
handsome man, with fine expressive dark eyes, and large black
whiskers, but a rather melancholy cast of countenance. He
became Captain Burke soon after, in consequence of the war
in Mexico, which caused considerable promotion among the
officers for some time ; but he did not Uve to enjoy it, being
kiUed at the battle of Churubusco, outside of the city of
Mexico, in August, 1847, about two years after my enUstment.
After asking me a few questions, he said he would be glad to
have me if I passed the surgeon's examination, and could
procure a document to show that I had been discharged
from the British service. I accordingly went to my lodgings,
and returned with my certificate of discharge, which he
sUghtly glanced over, and remarking that it was quite. satis
factory, directed the sergeant to go with me to the inspecting
surgeon. I then underwent an examination simUai- to that
which recruits undergo when enlisted in the British service.

governor's ISLAND. 15
and immediately after, went with the sergeant to the office
of a magistrate, and took the usual oath of aUegiance.
Being a soldier once more, and desirous of ascertaining
the actual condition of one' in the American service as soon
as possible, I asked the sergeant when it would be requisite
for me to be ready to go over to Governor's Island. This
is a small island in the Manhattan Bay, where recruits are
stationed until sent to join their respective regiments. It is
rather more than a mile in circumference, and about a mile
from the battery. The sergeant, who seemed a civU fellow,
said that I might either go over in the garrison boat at sun
set that evening, or if I had anything to arrange in New
York, , I might defer going over until next evening. He
advised me to sell my clothes, and purchase old ones in
New York, as I would get almost nothing for good clothes
in the island, and would have no opportunity of coming over
to sell them, as recruits after landing never obtained per
mission to leave the island until sent to join their regi
ments, I followed his advice with regard to the clothes, for
whioh a purchaser was easily found, replacing them with a
light linen jacket, and chip hat, which cost a mere trifle, but
were good enough to throw away in a day or two, when I
should put on soldier's uniform. I also sold my trunk, and
a few other articles which, as a soldier, I had neither much
use for, nor convenient means of carrying ; and being desirous
of going over the same evening, I then returned to the
recruiting office.
At sunset the sergeant accompanied me and two other
recruits down to the boat, which lay in front of Castle
Garden. The garrison boat was a large, handsome, and
neatly painted cutter, rowed by six soldiers, with a corporal
acting as coxswain. Seated in the stem of the boat were a
couple of young officers smoking cigars. They were proba-

16 ADVENTUBES OF A SOLMER IN MEXICO.
bly chagrined at having been detained a minute or two
while we were coming down, for one of them called out in a
petulant tone to us, to jump in and be damned. I looked
with a little surprise at the would-be aristocrat specimen of
equal rights who had spoken, and could perceive that he had
the apology of youth and inexperience, being little more
than a boy. One of the recruits muttered loud enough to
be heard by the gentleman, who stared and coloured, but
perhaps thought it prudent to decline a reply, " Faith and
there's many a strong word comes off a ^ weak stomach."
The evening was delightful, and in a few minutes we were
landed on the wharf at Governor's Island. The other two
recruits and myself were shown to a tent, where we were to
sleep for the night. We, found that it contained only two
straw mattresses, and two blankets, but as the weather was
very warm, we slept that night very comfortably.

CHAPTER n.
My first experience as an American soldier, and attendance at mili
tary punishment.
We were roused next morning by the r^veiUe, which is
always beat a little before sumise. Having got up with the
assistance of a good-natured recruit who happened to look
into our tent, we roUed up our mattresses, and folded the
blankets according to regulation, and then, falling into the
ranks formed in front of the tents, we answered to our names
as they were called by the sergeant who had charge of us.
All hands were then distributed in separate parties, each
party in charge of a corporal, to " police" or clean round the
garrison. A portion of this duty, af which the recruits
grumbled loudly, and which I soon learned was one of seve
ral standing grievances of which they complained, was being
sent to the barrack-square, where a company, called the per
manent company, were stationed. As the recruits lay in
tents outside, and at a considerable distance from the bar
racks, they naturaUy felt indignant at the unjust degradation
to which they were subjected, in being compelled every
moming to act as a scavenging commission for the perma
nent company. The refusal to obey orders, caused by this
foolish regulation, was the means of many of the recruits
being confined in the guard-house while I was on the island.
At six o'clock we were assembled and formed into squads for
drill ; we were then drilled until seven, when we were dis
missed.

18 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
At half-past seven o'clock, at beat of drum, we again fell
into the ranks, having our leathern stocks on, and jackets
buttoned up to the coUar. The roU was again called, after
which we were marched to the cook-house to breakfast. It
is a.'rule in the American service that soldiers shall breakfast,
dine, and sup in the cook-house, a very absurd and inconve
nient regulation, for which I never heard any satisfactory
reason assigned. Our breakfast consisted of six ounces of,
bread, a sUce of salt pork, and a pint of weak unpalatable
coffee, totally innocent of the useless extravagance of milk,
instead of which we were permitted to season our sumptuous
fare vdth vinegar at discretion, a large black bottle fuU of
that condiment being placed at each end of the table.
Before commencing, and as I was about to sit down to my
first breakfast on Governor's Island, a recruit, Savniey, belong
ing to New York, one of the "bhoys," as they deUght in
being called, and a recognised and privileged wit among the
recruits, volunteered to ask a blessing. It was evidently a
preconcerted arrangement with several of his influential
friends, who used all their address, and a considerable degree
of exertion to obtain silence. Having finally succeeded,
Sawney l-ose with a face of the utmost gravity, and com
menced a profane and irreverent parody. He concluded by
d  g all those infernal scoundrels who rob poor soldiere of
their rations ; amen. " Sawney, get up, and go to the guard
house," said a sergeant who entered as he sat down, after
finishing this singular grace. " Ay, ay," grumbled Sawney,
" I expected as much ; I said how it would be. If a poor
devil wants to be ever so religious, it's no use a trying of it
here. I suppose that's what you call liberty of conscience in
this blessed free republic of om-s. Hang me if it is not
enough to make a man curse Washington, or his old grand
mother even." So saying, and swallowing his indignation

CLOTHING, INSPECTION, AND DRILL. 19
along with a gulp of the wretched coffee, and taking his
bread in his hand, amidst the sympathy of his admiring
friends, he walked off to the Guard House, muttering curses,
not loud but deep. ,
After breakfast, the sergeant in charge of the recruits took
me and the two others who came over pn the previous even
ing to the clothing store, where each received the following
articles of clothing. A forage cap, leather stock, jacket, and
trousers of coarse blue cloth, two cotton shirts, two pairs of
socks, one pair of half boots, a blanket, a great-coat, a knap
sack, and a havresack. Having brushed our clothes, cleaned
the metal buttons of our jackets, and polished our boots, at
10 o'clock, we again fell into the ranks for inspection and
drill. After a minute inspection by the officer who had us
in charge, to see that we were smart and clean in our appear
ance, we were formed into a number of separate squads for
drill ; those who had joined earliest, and consequently were
the most forward with then- drUl, being placed in the first
squad, and so on in succession. The other two recruits.
Murphy and Finnegan, and myself, were turned over to a
corporal named Bright, to be taught, the preliminary steps of
a soldier's drill, as " the position of a soldier," or the manner
in which a soldier should stand in the ranks ^ "the facings,"
or mode of tuming on the heels to the right or left, with
slow marching, and a few of those things which usually com
mence the course of instruction with recruits.
Corporal Bright, who was an Irishman by birth, was a
United States soldier by profession, and long custom. He
had served three enUstments, and entered on the fourth. He
¦v^as a stout, punchy, little fellow, rather round-shouldered,
sUghtly bowlegged, nose carbuncled, and portending an addic
tion to strong potations. Ih addition, he had a very decided
sqtiint fr-om a pair of duU, grey, and glassy-looking orbs,

20 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
which, as Finnegan when criticising his personal appearance
remarked, " stuck out of the orathur's head like the eyes of
a boiled-cod fish." Notwithstanding these sUght drawbacks.
Corporal Bright had an Idea that he was a very handsome
and well-made man, and on this account became the uncon
scious butt of aU the recruits he got to driU. " Murphy, arrah
bad luck to you for an awkward-looking omadhaun," he would
caU out, " can't you hold up your big head, and look me
straight in the eyes ?" (Murphy aside) — " Be the hokey, my
bright-looking customer, and that's what I defy mortial man
to do." Corporal Bright (marching in front), " Look at me
now Murphy, and yourself too Finnegan ; there now, do yez
iver see me duck my head like a gandher going under a gate
or bent two double like some old Judy going to a wake ?"
Finnegan (aside) — " Faith, an it's a Judy you make of yourself
sure enough, you cpnsated crathur." Corporal Bright (ad
dressing his squad), " Be my sowl, I'm ashamed of yez for
counthrymen ; stand at ease ; I'U just march a few paces in
front now to show yez how yez ought to march ; now if yez
plase vriU yez take a patthern." So saying, he would step
off, and march twenty or thirty paces to the front, with such
a ludicrous imitation of the beau ideal graceful ease, and dig
nified carriage of body which he recommended, as to some
times prove rather too much for the gravity of his pupils.
These performances he would intersperse with a few instruc
tions, and self-laudatory remarks, such as, " There now, do
yez persaive the difference, can't yez carry yer shoulders
back, yer heads ereck, and march as you persaive I do, as
bould as a lion, and as straight as a ramrod." Finnegan
(aside) — "Arrah, look at the gommagh, vrith the airs and
consate of him, inarching in front there as bould as Julius
Csesar; sure it's a holy show the unfortunate , crather makes
ov himself with his * straight as a ramrod ;' faith, the ramrod

GARRISON LIFE., 21
that's no straighter than you, would do to load the. gun that
shoots round the corner. Murphy (aside in reply), " Faix,
but it's the beautiful cook they spoUed, when they made the
same fellow a corporal ; he could have one eye up the chim
ney, and the other in the pot at the same time." Such is a
faint sketch of Corporal Bright and his squad of recruits, on
the drill ground at Governor's Island.
Having been well driUed whUe serving in the British
army, I found no difficulty in acquiring my drill on the
island, the systems of English and American drill being
essentiaUy the same. I therefore escaped a good deal of
that annoyauce to which recruits are often subject, ^ipon
first joining the army, and which frequently proceeds from
the ignorance or bad temper of the non-commissioned officer
appointed to drill them. The proper combination of intelli
gence, firmness, and mildness of manner, requisite to form a
good drill instructor, is of rare occurrence, and owing to this
cause, many a young and high spirited recruit, discouraged
and fretted by the buUying and blustering tone of those who
ought to be. his patient instructors, is tempted to desert the
service, when, with proper .treatment, he might have been
made a good and efficient soldier.
At half-past eleven o'clock the squads were dismissed,
and the greater part of the recruits who possessed money,
or had credit at the sutler's store, went over to it to buy
crackers and cheese, pies and other eatables, and to drink
cider, ginger, and root beer, aU of which articles, with
tobacco, and several other necessaries, were sold there at the
slight advance of 100 per cent, upon the price at which
simUar commodities could be purchased in New York.
The sutler's store is a shop kept in every gamson, and is
somewhat siimlar to a canteen in the British service, only
the sutler's stores are prohibited from selUng sphits. Re-

22 AD-VBNTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO. (
cruits, on arriving at the island, were allowed credit in
the sutler's store to the amount of two doUars, which sum,
or the amount taken by the recruit, was remitted by the
captain of his company on the first pay-day after he joined
his regiment. Those recruits who had exhausted their
Credit at the store, either went to their tents, or lay stretched
on the grass, under the fine shady trees that ornamented the
parade ground, reading, dozing, or smpking, and chatting,
according to their various incUnations.
At twelve o'clock the dinner call beat, a fifer and drum
mer playing the regulation time, " O the Roast Beef of Old
Engfend." We again fell into the ranks, buttoned up as at
breakfast roU-call, and having answered om- names were
marched to the cook-house to dinner. This meal consisted
of six ounces of bread, a sUce of salt pork, and a basin
of bean soup. This compound was vei-y salt, and very fat,
and contained a quantity of half-boUed beans. I have
seen some strange and rather uninviting dishes, both before
and since, but never anything so utterly unpalatable as the
bean-soup of Governor's Island. A few of the more
, verdant of the recruits occasionally swallowed a portion
of it, under the false impression that it was a species
of military soup, which might possess some hidden nutri
tious -rirtues, though so singularly uninviting in taste and
appearance. For this venial error, however, they were
pretty sure to suffer a moderate degree of penance, untU led
by experience to see their mistake. The old and more
experienced hands, usually preferred to wash down their dry
victuals with a drink of water, so that the quantity of
Spartan broth, and salt pork, daUy left on the dinner table
of the recruits, was quite enormous, a fact easily cited to
refute any complaint of an insufficient dietary.
At three o'clock we again feU in for drill, and were

A STANDING GRIEVANCE. 23
dismissed at half-past four ; and at five o'clock we were
marched as before to the cook-house for supper, which
consisted of six ounces of bread and a pint of coffee. I
need not insist upon the inadequacy of the diet furnished
to the recruit, both as regards quantity and quality, at
Governor's Island, where a complete organization seems to
exist, for the purpose of robbing the recruit, and disgusting
him with the ser-rice at the very outset. The diet and
general treatment are much better when the soldier joins his
company ; although I am free to confess that, throughout the
service generally, a very wide field stUl remains for improve
ment. I am aware that it "will seem to many a thing quite
incredible, that in a country abounding as America does
wifh cheap food, a standard grievance with the soldiers
should be the manner in which they are fed ; it is a fact
nevertheless, quite notorious to every soldier who has over
served in the American army.
After supper, we usuaUy had an interval of rest until nine
o'clock. " Now came in the sweet of the night," while the
old and sedate portion of the recruits strolled along the
foot-walks that intersect, and surround the island, or sat in
small parties conversing in front of their tents, the younger
and more volatile among them engaged in a variety of
pastimes and amusements. Foot-ball, leaping, wrestling,
foot racing, leap-frog, throwing the stone, or dancing when
music could be procured, were a few of the more prominent
of the diversions commonly resorted to. Later in the evening,
after having answered our names at retreat, which was beat
precisely at sunset, groups assembled round the tent doors,
to smoke, chat, tell tales, or sing songs. Nigger songs or the
broadly humorous, formed the staple of these social enter
tainments, except -srith the German portion of the recruits,
who, having been taught to sing in their national schools,

2-t. ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
had acquired a more refined ear, and a taste for music of a
rather superior quality. They generally arranged, therefore,
a separate party, forming a very pleasing concert among
themselves, by singing their national songs ; these, when
heard a Uttle distance off, on a stiU evening, had a very
beautiful and harmonious effect. At nine o'clock we feU in,
'.to answer our names at tattoo roU-caU, when the drums and
fifes played a few merry tunes, after which the roU was called
and we were then dismissed to bed. About fifteen minutes
were then suffered to elapse, when the drummer beat three
distinct taps on the drum, at which signal every light in tents
or quarters had to be extinguished, and the most strict
sUenCe preserved, on pain of the offender being sent to the
guard-house — the immediate punishment for all wUfiil infrac
tions of the rules of the service. Such is a summary of one
day, and, with but sUght variations, of evei-y day of the
three weeks I spent on Governor's Island.
I had been upon the island about a week, when a large
draft of recruits was ordered to Texas, where they were to
join different regiments, preparing for that expedition to the
frontier, which resulted in involving the United States in the
war vrith Mexico. The popular feeling in the United States,
at that period, sefemed to be strongly in favor of a war.
Texas had just been annexed, and the papers teemed -wiili
paragraphs calculated to rouse the war sphit, dweUing on
the indignities offered to the States by the Mexican Govem
ment ; especiaUy in refusing to pay certain indemnities
claimed by American citizens, for injuries received by them
from Mexican civil functionaries, in their trading relations
with that nation. In the meantime the refusal of. Mexico
to recognize the independence of Texas, or to Usten to any
statement of American grievances, with the circumstance of
her having an army on the Rio Grande, showed that she

CAUSES or DESERTION. 25
was careless how she provoked the coming struggle, which
she probably now began to consider inevitable ; and' tended
to show that hostUities would soon break Put between the '
sister republics.
I cannot say how far the near prospect of a war may have
operated upon the minds of recruits to cause desertion, but
certainly the number of desertions at the period I speak
of was very great. This crime I had imagined would be
almost unknown, or of very rare occurrence in this army,
where the period of service was Umited to five years, and
which professed to treat its soldiers so UberaUy on all other
points. But the practice of putting all recruits who join at
Governor's , Island during the summer months, into-, tents,
where they are roasted as if in an oven during the day, and
frequently drenched with wet,, and starved with cold during
the night, must produce a degree of disgust to the service in
the mind of the recruit at the very outset. For .a tent,
though exceUent accommodatio'n to the soldier on a campaign
(especiaUy if one has beisn compelled to rough it, for a week
or two occasionaUy with the blue vault or the black sky for a
canopy), is a miserable substitute for a substantial barracks.
And it certainly must produce a rather unpleasant impres
sion on the recruit, to reflect, that probably the most misera
ble loafer in New York is in a more comfortable lodging
than himself. It is to this practice, together with the con
finement to the island, and the wretched system that prevails
in regard to their food, that much of the desertion among
the recruits is to be attributed. In fact, throughout the
American service generally, desertion, though the only offence
for which the disgraceful punishment of flogging is permitted
by the military code, is not looked upon in the Ught of a
crime by the soldier. This is principally, o-wing to the con
viction that they are not treated justly. No great amount
2

26 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
of logic is requhed to. perceive that a contract, to be binding
must bind both, parties; but it would take a good deal to
convince the soldier, that he is bound to observe an oath
which he has taken under certain implied conditions, -which _
he finds are not observed.
The common method adopted by the recruits who wished
to desert from Governor's Island, was to engage a boat to.
come over in the night time to. take them off, while others
trusted themselves and their fortunes to a single plank in
the foUowing manner. Watching when the tide was setting
into the harbour, they fastened their clothes to a plank, and
by svrimming and holding on to it while they directed its
course, with the assistance of it and the tide, they easily
reached New York, or Brooklyn. One morning we missed
two large tubs which we had made by sawing a hogshead
in' two, and which always stood at the pump, being used as
washtubs by the recruits, who were under the neeessity of
scouring, their own linen on the island. Many and various
were the conjectures .as to the missing utfosUs, until spme
one suggested the probability of their having been used to
ferry over the two recruits who were reported absent that
morning. This sui-mise was soon after confirmed by one of
the permanent company who had been in New York on the
previous night, and who stated, that he had seen two smaU
strange-looking craft, answering ,t6 our description of the
missing tubs, paddling, in the gray twiUght of the morning,
alongside one of the wharfs in New York, where there is
little doubt that their adventurous navigators effected a safe
landing. A rather ludicrous circumstance happened to a captain of
a schooner who picked up one of these deserters in the bay.
The deserter had left Governor's Island on a plank, and
having miscalcidated the run of the tide, he was rapidly

0-\TCHIXG A TARTAR. • 27
drifting out to sea, when he was seen and- picked up by the
schooner. It would seem, however, that the poor fellow had
only escaped one danger to run into another, for the ca,ptain,
on questioning him, and finding 'that he was a. deserter, not
being of those who think that a good, action is its own
reward, resolved upon obtaining the,i more tangible one of
thirty dollars,' the sum paid for the apprehension of ^ deser
ter, by delivering him up to the authorities as soon as they
should arrive at New York. . However, he concealed his
design fxom his intended victim, to whom he appeared ex
ceedingly kind and attentive, giving him a good stiff glass
of grog, and some dry, clothes, to wear until his o-wn were
dried. On arri-ring at the wharf he told hirg. he had busi
ness ashore, and recommended him to stay where he was
until evening, as there was danger of his being apprehended
should he go on shore in dayUght. At all events he was
not to think of going till he should return. So saying, and
locking the cabin door upon the deserter, he went 6ff to Go
vernor's Island to procure a party of soldiers fof his appre
hension. Meanwhile the deserter was not idle or asleep, and ha-ring
" smelt a rat" from the captain's manner, especiaUy from the
circu-tristance of his ha-ring locked the cabin door, he resaived
upon turning the tables upon him. The result of this reso
lution was, that on the return of the captain with a party of
soldiers, he found that not only had he lost his trouble, but''
that during his absence his chest had been broken open,
and a considerable sum of money, together with a valuable
sUver lever watch, had been abstracted by the miserable-
looking wretch on whom he had calculated for tuming in
thirty dollars. The captain, who looked extremely foolish,
had evidently caught a Tartar instead of a deserter, being-
minus sixty, instead of plus thirty doUars, and in place of

28 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
recei-ring sympathy was laughed at by all who heard the
story. What added flavour to the jest among the recruits,
was the curious, half-witted, and simple looks ofthe deserter,
who was generaUy considered' deficient in intellect, but who
clearly -proved himself more rogue than fool upon' this occa
sion. In order to check the frequency of desertion, great efforts
were made to apprehend some of the soldiers in the act of
escaping fi-om the island, for the purpose of inflicting a pun
ishment that might deter others fi-om foUowing their et-
ample. At length, having succeeded in apprehending two
who' were trying to cross in a small boat to Brooklyn, the
commanding officer immediately caused a court-martial to
be summoned for their trial ; and. after the lapse of a^^w
days, during which the proceedings' of-the court -were sent to
the commander-in-chief for his approval, the . prisoners were
brought out on para-de to receive sentence and punishment.
Both of them having been proved guUty of the crime- of
desertion, -were sentenced to "undergo the infliction of a
corporal punishment of fifty lashes on the bare back with a
raw cowhide, and fm-ther to have their heads shaved, and be
drummed out of the service -with ignominy."
They were young andT good-looking men, bne of them a
native of the States, the other a German, and both receive.d
their punishment, which was inhumanly severe, with admira
ble fortitude. A number of- the recruits were compelled to
fall out of the ranks and go to the rear, o-wing to a sensation
of faintness caused by witnessing this exhibition of modern
torture. This is a common occurrence -with young men,
both officers and soldia-s, many of whom seem to suffer
nearly as much as the recipient, at -witnessing these barba
rous punishments for the first time. Fifty lashes is the full
extent of corporal punishment that can be infficted in the

- EXEMPLARY PUNISHMENT. 29
'American army, and that -only for the crime of desertion ;
but as far as .physical suffering is concerned, or the damage
done to the constitution by that inhuman mode of punish
ment, fifty lashes with a cowhide are fully equivalent to
three hundred with a cat, such as is used in the British
army. After being flogged, the prisoners were marched back to
the guardhouse, where they had their heads shaved bare, in
pursuance of their, sentence. Next morning they were
brought out to the parade-groUnd under the charge of a flie
of the guard, and marched from thence round the garrison,
a fifer and drummer playing .3 tune specially used oh these
occasions called the "Rogues' March," being the same tune
used in the British service on a like occasion. They were
then marched down to the wharf, and sent over in the
garrison boat to New York. A subscription was secretly
got up, and several dollars collected for them among the ,
recruits, by whom their condition was generally commiserat
ed, though some of them did not hesitate to say that .they
considered them lucky fellows, and had better be flogged
and drummed ouf, than -shot up in Texas or Mexico. '

CHAPTER IIL
Embark,-ition at the Battery— Yankee opinion of Soldiers— Fprt ¦
Adams— kew Comrades— Defects of Organization— Routine -of
Duties — Life in Quarters.
About the latter end of the month of August a draft of
' forty recruits were ordered to Fort Adams, Rhode Island,
' to complete two. companies of artiUery stationed there. I
had the good fortune to be included in the number selected
for this draft, and was happy at any prospect which promised '
a relief frpm the disagreeable confinement of Governor's Island.
A.bout flve o'clock on the evening of the thirty-first August
we got on board a sloop belonging to the garrison, which
landed us at the CuStom-house wharf near the battery. There
we were met by a crowd of idlers, who gathered round us,
curious to have a look at the soldiers who they imagined
were ordered to Texas to fight the Mexicans ; the most trivial
movement of troops being magnified into an event by the
rumour of the approaching war with Mexico. We marched
round the Battery to the wharf on the North River, where
we went on board a steamboat, and shortly after started
amidst the cheers of a crowd of urchins, several of these pre
cocious juveniles, apparently not more than ten years of age,
shouting with intensity of glee at the idea of the fun, " 0
won't they give the Mexicans hell ?" But, " as the old'COck
crows, the young one learns," as the old proverb has it.
For some time aftor starting, we amused. ourselves bv ad
miring the delightful villas and beautiful scenery of both the

INTERCHANGE 01' CIVILITIES. 31
Manhattan and Long Island side of the channel, which
glowed in the rich mellow colouring of the autumnal sun
set Uke the realms of a fairy land. But evening soon closed
over us, and as we were at our -destination early next morn
ing, we had little opportunity of seeing much of the scenery
on our voyage, however much we might have been disposed
to admire it. Our men were directed by the officer in com
mand of our party to keep" together in the fore part of the
boat during the night, and to sleep on the deck in the best
manner we could. As the night air at, that season of the
year was beginning to feel rather cold, we grumbled a little
at this arrangement, but there was- ho help for it- The boat
was full of passengers, a few of whorn occasionaUy entered
famUiarly. into conversation with the soldier^, and showed
their good breeding by various acts of civility_and kindness.
But we could scarcely help remarking that the majority of
them seemed to look upon, us in the light of a degraded
caste, and seemed to think that there was 'contamination in
the touch of a soldier ; for it is a singular fact that thoiigh
Jonathan is so vain of his military prowess, and a Uttle too
apt to boast of the wonderful exploits of those armies of his
that can whip aU creation so easUy, it is only in the coUec
tive term, or as an abstract idea ; he is exceedingly shy of the
individuals who ciompose it. In reply to some casual obser
vation made by a fellow passenger upon our appearance on
board, I chanced to overhear an old fellow' of most -rinegar-
looking aspect drily remark, " Ay, ay ! they are a fine set
of candidates for the States prison." I was standing partly
concealed by somfe boxes that stood upon deck, andto do- the
old fellow justice, I believe he did not intend that Irs remark
should reach a soldier's ears : however, I could not resist the
impulse of the moment which prompted me- to. repeat for his
edification Sir John's reply to Prince Hal, when criticising

32 ADVE-NTURES of a soldier in MEXICO.
his soldiers rather too curiously, " Tut, tut, good enough to
. toss, food for powder, food for powder ; they'U fill a pit as
well as better: 'tush, man, mortal men, mortal men." My
quotation, whUe-it rather 'took the old feUow by surprise, and
-raised a smUe among a few of the surrounding passengers,
had. the more substantial effect of being the means of pro
curing me a good bed that night ; a luxury which I beUeve I
was the only one of the party who enjoyed. A young gen
tleman • overheai'ing the conversation, in whom I afterwards
discovered an enthusiastic admirer of the " Mighty Poet," in
vited me to take a glass of brandy. We afterwards engaged
in a conversation, which being enlivened and promoted by
an occasional tribute to Bacchus and a fresh supply of cigars,
lasted until pretty late in the night. Upon getting up to go to
bed, and .learning that I was to sleep on deck, he said, that
must be a mistake, but he would 'xectify it : and going to the
steward, he immediately returned with a ticket for a berth,
which he gave me, nor would he hear of thanks for his kind
ness ; insisting that it cost him nothing, and that the circum
stance of the ^Idiers sleeping on deck must have originated
in a mistake. ' - 1 hardly knew what to think of it at the time,
but-aftel;waTds upon reflection I felt convinced that he had
paid the steward for the accommodation, which he wished to
offer me in this delicate mannei. Bidding him ,a friendly
good night, I availed myself of my ticket by going down
below, where I found a good bed, and slept comfortably untu
roused by beat -of 'drum next morning. On getting upon
deck I found we were near our destination, being opposite
Fort Adams, which is aboat a mile fi-om the town of New
port, where we landed, but as the road from Ne'wport to the
Fort skirts a deep bay, we found the distance by land about
-three miles.
We had now jeached the head-quarters of our regiment,

ARRIVAL AI HEAD-QUARTERS. 33
and ha-ring taken off om- knapsacks, rested a little, cleaned
ourselves, and taken breakfast, we" were marched to the hos
pital to undergo a final medical inspection. Stripping- off all
our clothes . at the. door ef a large apartment, each of us
entered in succession, one going in as the other came out.
I could scarcely help smiling when in marching into the
room' ira puris. naturalibus, the surgeon thus addressed me,
" So, an old British soldier, I suppose ?" which taking for
granted, without' waiting -for any answer, he cohtinued,
".Have you beeh much in hospital while in the British
.service ?" I told him I had- enjoyed very good health while
serving there. He then asked me how long I had served,
where stationed, and in what regiment, ahd, after making
me walk about a little and extend my arms, dismissed me.
I admired his acuteness in thus telling at a glance th'at I
had served in the British army, for as our names were not
caUed'.as we entered, he could, not have ascertained the fact
except from observation. The result of the exainination
was, that we were all 'without exception .declared fit for
service'; indeed it rarely. happens that recruits are rejected
on joining their regiments, as they are minutely examined
by the sm-geon at the recruiting' station where they enlist.
We were now to be told off to our respective companies,
an important event to the soldier, as each company forms a
separate and distinct family, -from, which during his five
years' period of Serrice he is seldom transferred. It is true
these companies are all subject to the same general regu
lations, but their whole internal economy, discipline, and the
general comfort of the men are altogether dependent on the
methods' adopted, and the interest manffested in its arrange
ments by the officer intrusted with its command. Company
K, commande.d by Captain Taylor, and company I, com
manded by Lieutenant Capron, were the two companies
2"

34 adventures of a soldier in MEXICO.
stationed at Fort Adams at that time. We were., to be
distributed between fhese two, and the simple method of
taking a man alternately from the top to the bottom of the
roll having been decided on as the most fair and impartial, I
found myself atthe end of the proceedings, along with nine
teen more of my comrades, told off to company I.
We were now sho-wn to our quarters, large, arched, bomb
proof roomsl They were tolerably comfortable, -with the
exception of the, -wooden bedsteads, and the exceedingly
disagreeable custom, still universal in the United States
service, of sleeping two in a bed— a custom which has been
abolished in every barrack in Great Britain, and the Colo
nics, to the infinite comfort of the soldier, for the last twenty
years. The orderly, or chief sergeant of the company, a ,
rank which corresponds with that of colom- sergeant in the
British service, told us ofl' in; twos, and appointed the beds
we were to occupy ; affixing a label with the names of the
occupants upon each. I happened luckily to get a very
good comrade, the usual term for a bed-feUow in the army.
He was an Englishman, named -Bill Nutt, a regular cockney ;
who had beeu brought up in London to the trade of a carver
and gilder, by his father, once a resjjectable master-trades
man in 'that business there. He had run away from home
when a boy, and" served a three years' cruise in a British •
man-of-war, where he had "seen a little sar-rice," having
been, tP use, his cwn language, "in a bit of a shindy
with the Dutch boors at the Cape, of Good Hope.'' He was a
witty, pleasant young fellow, and a general favourite with the
men for his cheerful temper, and good nature. Still, a real
specimen of the John Bull family, he was keenly sensitive to
any ill-natured reflections thrpwn uppn his country, or her.
institutions. He also felt grievously annoyed at the insolent
aud impertinent tone assumed by native Americans to all

A MISCELLANEOUS COMPANY. 35
foreigners ; indeed I learnt that he had left several work
shops in New York from quarrels arising out of this circum
stance. Company I to -which I -now belonged, though nominally
artillery, had precisely the same duties to perform as in
fantry; being armed -with muskets, and in every respect
equipped and drilled in the same manner, with the
exception of an occasional drill at the battery guns of the
Fort. ,^ The company, after ha-ring .received our draft of
twenty recruits, consisted, of sixty men, including non-com
missioned officers and privates ; of these, two were English)
four Scotch, seven Germans, sixteen Americans, and the
remainder Irish. Such was its composition at the time I
entered, but in the American ser-vice a company soon under
goes a change in its- component parts. During the five
years which I served, from the combined caUses of deaths,
desertions, and discharges, more than two-huhdred-and-fifty
had- joined it; although its, strength never exceeded one-
himdred-and-twelve, to which it was augmented while in the
city of Mexico, being then a light battery. The infantry
companies were, also augmented to about eighty privates
each, during the war with Mexico.
,,The short period of service in the American army has
ob-rious disadvantages. The men, from being so fr-equently,
changed, never seeni to acquire that feeling of brotherly re
gard for one another, or any of that kindly forbearance, and •
good will, which a long acquaintance naturally produces ;
and which helps so materially to form and promote the
esprit du corps, which is found to animate more or less,
according to the good or bad qualities of the officer com
manding, every regiment, tropp, or company in the British
service, as regards the mutual relation in __whioh officers
and soldiers ought to stand to each other. It has also

36 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
the following prejudicial effect— the American officer, from
want of a habit of strict attention to the management of iis
company, partly caused by the transitory interest he must
feel in a perpetual current of strangers, becomes careless cf
either learning the characters, or caring for the interests of .
his. men. ' Thus, frequently the seeds of distrust and Ub-wiU
are sown between the two classes ; a seriousevil in the service,
which sometimes produces a bitter result. A signal instance
of this occurred at Churubusco in our Mexican campaign, of
which I shall have to speak hereafter.
We were now in better circumstances than-we had beeh
whUe-.on' Governor's Island'; we had comfortable quarters, iu
place of tents, and our diet was considerably improved by the
produce of a garden, which belonged to the garrison; it
being on ground belonging- to the government, and planted
and cultivated by the soldiers. The potatoes, cabbages, and
onions, raised by their labour, formed a welcome addition to
.the rather indifferent fare furnished to the soldier by^overn-
ment. The cheapness of dairy produce, too, at Rhode Island,
where butter was sold at ten cents, or five pence a pound,
and cheese -at one half of that price, enabled us to improve
our diet at a trifling expense. In addition to this abundance,
fish of exceUent quality were plentiful in'the bay close at
hand, where we could easUy at any time catch a few trout,
rock fish, flounders, lobsters, eels, qrabs, and a variety of
others, of a richness and flavour which might tempt the
palate of an epicure, and whose names I have forgotten at
¦present, but a grateful recollection of whose merits remains
in the caltalogue of the good things of that periPd. In the
intervals between the hours of drill we amused ourselves by
fishing in the bay, by sea bathing, or by rambling about the
country in th^vicinity ofthe garrison. Sometimes we went
over to the town of Newport, a distance of about three mhes

THE RECRUIT AND THE SOLDIER. 37
..bythe highway, but -which ' a short cut through tbe fields
reduced tp t'wo. To go niore than a mUe from the garrison
'without a written permissiori signed by an officer, is for
bidden by a' regulation of the service, a soldier , being liable
to severe punishment for its infringement ; but this rule is
not often rigorously enforced, -and officers seldom restrict
their meh to .any particular distance from the garrison,
unless circumstances require it, as long as they are regular
in their -attendance on their duties, roU-calls, and parades.
Recruits are treated with a 'certain degree of indulgence
for some- time -after joining the regiment, or company, to
which they, belong, They- are usuaUy excused from- the per
formance of all duty while learning their drill,- a period of
about two or three, months. When the adjutant of the
regiment, -who is responsible for its discipline, considers the
recruit sufficiently driUed, he dismisses him from drill, and
sends him to duty, as it is termed ; he has then to take every
' duty in rotation. As soon as he mounts his first guard; he
drops his title of recruit, which is thenceforth merged in that
of -soldier ; and proud of his newly acquired distinction, he
•speedily adopts the manners,, customs, vices, and -virtues of
his model, to be like whom has been for some time the highr
est object of his. ambition. But if the recruit has gained in
his own estimation by advancing to alevfel with the old
soldier, he. soon finds that the duties imposed upon him by
his new position are a considerable drawback uppn his newly
attained dignity. In the first place he has to mount guard
once every fourth ;day on an average; this duty commences
at nine or ten o'clock in the morning, and terminates at the
same hour next njorning. A soldier remains on guard for
twenty-four hours in all' ordinary cases, during which he is
not permitted to put off his clothes or accoutrements, or to
quit his guard,- even for an instant, without permission from

R8 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
the officers in charge of it. There are three sentries to each
post, who are relieved every two hours in succession ; thus
each man is two hom-s on post and four hours off, giving each
eight hours sentry during his- twenty-four hours on guard.
When off- post, he is permitted to stretch himself upon a
sloped wooden bench, with a wooden pUlow, called the guard-
bed, where he may sleep if, he chooses, beiug at liberty to se
lect the softest boards he can find for that purpose, but strictly
prohibited from taking off any of his accoutrements. When
relieved from guard he cleans his musket and appointments,
whioh, -with an hour or two of drill, occupies his time until
evening. The next'duty to be performed is that of " general poUce,"
all who came off guard on the day pre'rious being appointed
for' that work. The- principal duties of the general police are
to clean the parade grpund and the purlieus of the garrison,
and to cufwood and carry water for the use of the officers
and soldiers. They are Under the superintendence of the
orderly officer, a duty which is taken in rotation by aU,
except the commanding officer of the post; The orderly
officer has also the supervision of the barrack guard, and. the
duties of the garrison generally ; aU reports are made to him,
and, in the event. of any extraordinary occurrence, through
him to the commanding officer ; in short, the duty corres
ponds to that of officer of the day, in the EngUsh army. A
very .objectionable part of the duties required from the.
general police, and the source of a good deal of discontent,
is a practice which exists of causing them to do a considera
ble portion of work for officers, which ought to be done by
their own doraestic servants. The men consider it quite
reasonable that they should cle^n the garrison, and perform
the necessary duties of cutting their own wood, and bringing
water for their own use ; but they very naturally grumble at

BREACH OF DISCIPLINE. 39
doing the same for their officers, 'who they know are fm-nish-
ed by, government, in addition to their pay, with a liberal
aUowance of money and rations, for the express purpose of '
providing themselves with servants from civh Ufe. This
custom of making the soldiers -do the domestic drudgery of
the officers' household, thus; converting the soldier into a
degraded menial, a Gibeonite hewer of wood and drawer of
water, is universal throughout the American army, although
at direct variance -with the rules of the service. It has a
most deteriorating effect upon the character of the soldier,
whom it renders disaffected to his officers and the, service,
careless in his habits, and slovenly in his appearance. It is
chiefly owing to this bad practice, I have no doubt, that the
American soldier is so much inferior in smartness of appear
ance, and in the neatness of his uniform and appointments,
to the English soldiei-, who is accustomed to see the rules of
the service as stringently binding upon the officers as they
are upon the men. What serves to render this breach of
discipline more glaringly inexcusable, on. the part of the
Anierican officers, is that the Commander-in-Chief, General
Scott, aware of the existence of the practice, and the bad
effects which it produces, has, time after time, issued circu
lars, calling the attention of officers to the existing regulations
on this subject. These circulars, as directed, are frequently
read on parade ; and the perfect indifference with which the
system is carried oh, in open deflance of the prohibition,
shows the complete degree of impunity with which an officer
of the United States army may disregard the orders of a
superior, however high his rank, -when they happen to be
disagreeable to himseff.
These duties of mounting .guard, and -general pelice, are
the principal part of the American "soldier's duty when in
quarters ; in addition to these he is occasionaUy on company

40 ADVENTURES, OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
police, which consists in keeping the barrack rooms and pasi
sages clean, and doing any work that the Captain or Orderly
Sergeant may require in connectipn with company affairs-
There isalso the daily cleaning of his arms and appointments,
a thing which a good soldier seldom neglects, and' which
generally occupies an hour or two ; and the usual, drills and
parades, which generally occupy two or three hom-s each '
day ; the remainder of his time is pretty much at his owh
disposal. While we remained at Fort Adams, we had a great num
ber of visitors from th% town of Ne-wport, which is a fashion
able resort in summer for sea bathing, ahd parties of ladies
and gentlemen came over from .it daUy to look at the fort.
Some pf the old hands made a dollar now and then by acting
as cicerone to one of these parties ; but the. practice, upon
what principle I must say I could not clearly perceive,- was
gener-ally considered low and disreputable. ' The-fcrtificatro'ns
at Fort Adams are on a scale of gi-eat magnitude, and must
have cost' a great deal of money. They had been a number
of- years in progress of erection, and were not quite finished
when we left. ' The fort commands the entrance to the Sound,
and is a very strong and complete defence, having a series of
subterranean. passages connected -with its interior defence,.
parts of which can be suddenly filled with water in a manner
highly ingenious-. There ai-e also bombproof vaults, capable-
pf accommodating a sufficient force for the garrison of tho
place, which has an immense number of very heavy guns on
its various batteries.'
While we lay at Fort Adams, we had church service per
formed in one of the barrack rooms everj Thursday evening,
by a Methodist preacher from town. This was in consequence
of the distance being too great to march the men' to church
in town upon Sunday. The. attendance not being compul-

OKDfiRS TO 'MOVE. 41
'sory, very f^w ofthe men went, but our officers, -with fheir
wives and children; attended regularly, with as many of the
men as they could persuade, a thing which they sometimes
tried with but. indifferent success. I recollect hearing a Lieu
tenant ask-ohe of the men, whom he met in the square as he
^.was going over to church-service, if he would not come over
' and hear a sermon.- ".Heaven forbid, sir," was. the reply of
honest Dennis O'Tool, a Munster man, and a staunch .Catho
Uc. " Eh ! 'what's that you say, Dennis ?" said the Lieutenant,
in a bantering tone. " Sure, Lieutenant, the Blessed Virgin
knows I'm bad -enough aheady, -without sinning my soul any
more by going to hear a s-waddling preacher mocking the
holy, religipn," was the reply of Dennis ; -at whioh the Lieu-
tenant''s vrife_ lifted up her eyes in pious horror, while the
Lieutenant himself went away laughing heartily.
The regiment I had joined had been expecting a charige
of station for some time, and about a fortnight after the
. arrival of our draft, the order came for us to be in readiness
to proceed to Florida. Most of the old hands were sorry to
leave good quarters and a healthy situation Uke Fort Adams ;
. many of them had formed acquaintances and connections in
the town of Newport also, whioh made them still more sorry
at lea-ring. The recruits, however, seemed rather pleased at
the idea of change, and the bustling interest and excitement
of a sea voyage and change of scene Ead its charms for some.
For my. own part I believe J felt rather indifferent on the sub
ject. We were tp go to Boston, where we would take ship
ping for Pensacola.

CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Fort Adams — Pro-Hdenoe — Robbing the Orchard —
Boston — Life in a Transport— the Captain and the Xigger.
On the mprning of the 13th of September, having put our
baggage on board, our head-quarters, consisting of the -band
and the two companies K and I, embarked in the steamer at
the Garrison Whaa-f As we sailed past the wharf' at New
port, to which we came very close, the captain ofthe steamer
directed the speed to be lessened, to enable us to bid farewell
to our, friends, who were assembled Pn the wharf to see us
pass, and wave us their adieus. On leaving, they gave us
three hearty cheers, which we as heartUy retm-ned. Our
band struck up Yankee Doodle, and the .flutter of scarfs and
handkerchiefs was soon lost in the far distance.
It was a fine sunny morning, ahd enUvened by the strains
of a good band of music, and the view of some fine- river
scenery, we soon had more the appearance of a pleasure
party than a detachment of Uncle Sam's troops, ordered to a
(distant and disagreeable post. The green undulating banks
of the clear, smooth, and wide stream, which lined the sandy
or pebbled beach of a succession of sylvan coves, were dotted
here and there with neat cottages. Farm-houses peeped
occasionally through a clump of trees on some gentle rising
eminence, round which one might see the plough had been
at -work, from the lively alternations of colour which distm
guished these portions of the landscape. But the land seemed
principally occupied with the pasturage of cattle, large herds

INVASION OF AN' ORCHARD. 43
of which were grazing close to the water's edge, and adding
to the picturesque effect of the scene. On sailing- up to the
wharf at Providence, I observed several whale vessels lying
close up ; their appearance wa$ not very inviting, and from
what I have since .learned of these craft, I think I should
almost prefer another campaign in Mexico to a three years'
cruize in one of them.
Proridence is a neat and thriving place, Uke most of the
New England towns, vei-y clean, qliiet, and orderly. Yet
there is a considerable appearance of bustle about it : it
contains several cotton -mUls, and is finely situated in a plea
sant and healthy locality; But we had no time to go through
it, as we had to take our baggage from the steam-boat and
put it into the raUway cars ; this being done, we got into the
cars ourselves, and started immediately for Boston. We
passed through a rather sterile country from Providence to"
Boston, relieved and diversified occasionally by a farm-house,
a neat riUage, or a few smUing orchards. A nicely white
washed cotton factory also now and then enlivened the
landscape, but the. grey rocks, dwarf timber, and stunted fii-
trees, gave ample proof of the general poverty, of the soil,
which is principaUy occupied iu raising -stock arid grazing
cattle. Our .progress by the railway was rather slow, for a wheel
belonging -to one of the cars having broken, we had to wait
until it was repaired or replaced. In the meantime, we gpt '
out of the cars, and having found our way, in an evil hour
for their owhers, into some of the prfch'ards near the road, we
helped ourselves plentifully to the apples and peaches with
which the trees were loaded. Soldiers, especially on the
march, seem . to have exceedingly imperfect and confused
ideas on the subject of meurm and tuum. On the present
occasion, I believe the most conscientious among us considered

44 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO..
ourselves completely exculpated by the fact, that being hot
ahd thirsty, we could- find no good water to drink. Besides,
I dare say there was a sort of vindictive plea'strre in this .sort.'
of spoiling of the Egy.ptians : were we not going on a.long
voyage to a distant and. unheal thy post, while the owners of
these apples and peaches were .li-ring at home at ease ! " Faith,
it may be a long time before we see an apple orchard again,"
femarke.d one, as he industriously iUled his ha'vresack with
the fruit. A long time certainly ! Many cf the poor fellows
never ehtered another orchard, and never wUl !' Two years
afterwards, when rambling with some of my comrades through
-a beautfful orchard near St. Augustine, a small town on one
of'the most deliciously fertile andj-ichly cultivated skirts of
the valley of Mexico, I recalled to their mind the conversa
tion we had held while plundering the orchard by the; way
side, as the cars were being repaired. In the short space of
two years we had got almost an entirely new company.
There were only about a third of the original number remain
ing, who had left Fort Adams two years previously — deaths, -
discharges, and desertions had made awful inroads on our
community. We arrived at Boston about four o'clock in the afternoon,
andafter transferring our baggage from the railway cars to
waggons, we marched through the city with our regimental
colors displayed, and our band playing in front, which
attracted a great crowd around us. On our way through the
common, we got .a glimpse of the famous Bunker's Hill
monument. " A very common-place Ippking affair, but a remarkable
monument for all that," observed BUl Nutt, " it being tha
only monument knovra to exist that has beeh erected to com
memorate a defeat."
" Arrah, whisht with your blather, man, don't you per-

AN ARBITRARY PROHIBITION. 45
ceive the illegant allegory of the thing ; it's only' a standing
real genuine American bull, set up in opposition to the old ,
Enghsh one," said Paddy Bynhe. '
' We had no opportunity of seeing much of the city of
Boston, as we were .marched on board the ship' in which we
were going, as soon as we arrived at the wharf where she
lay. It was a fine large new, vessel, called the Albatross, of
about one thousand' tons burden. She had been built for the
cotton trade, and was to take in cotton at Mobile, after land
ing us at Pensacola. There were two other companies of our
regiment on board, making four companies in all ; but each
company was only about sixty strong, and we had not a grea.t
number of women and children, as several of the married
men had left their -wives and families behind, 'being near the
jexpiration of their ser-rice. We had a fine large vessel, well
fitted up, and had, therefore, more room and better ^accom
modation than commonly falls to the lot of soldiers .aboard
ship. We had not been long on board when a guard was mount
ed,' and a number of sentries placed all around the deck, and
at the gangway. These sentries had orders to prevent the
hjen from going ashore without permission, the smuggling
of spirits, into the vessel for.the use of the soldiers, and seve
ral things of that nature. These measures, I could plainly
perceive, had only the effect of -making the men resort to a
little, more strategy in effecting their objects, which it was
soon tolerably apparent had a diametrically opposite tendency
fo-the tee-total principle. A number ofthe men; having applied
for leave to go on shore for the purpose of procuring neces
saries for the voyage, were not ohly refused, but told that, all
such applications would be useless, as the. commanding offi-^
cer was resolved to grant np leave for either non-commissioned
officers or soldiers to go on shore whUe in harbor. This

1
46 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
extreme cautionS)f the 'commanding officer was bad pollcy,-
as it enhsted the sympathies of the sentries, in favour of those
whp wished to go on shore ; the non-commissioned officers
also, finding that they were prevented from going as weU as
the men, made common cause with them in endeavouring to
nuUffythe arbitrary prohibition. As a consequence of this
state of things, I could .soon see that the senti-y winked at
a;ll sorts of irregularities.; rather' assisting to mystify-his
officers, by helping his comrades to elude their \'igilanoe in
going in and out of the vessel, than trying to detect or pre
vent them. The method commonly adopted' to get Out of tlie
Vessel was, to '-substitute a straw' or tarpaulin hat, and a
Guernsey frock, or red wooUen shirt, for the soldier's cap and
jacket. This ¦ disguise, so effective as to deceive the most
acufe of the officers, was easily procured from some of the
sailors on board, and by means of it a constant communica
tion was kept up with the grog, stores whUe we lay there,
fortunately not a long period, being only during the next
day and night. Thus, while our commanding officer, I have .
no dpubt, flattered himself with the idea of his ovra sagacity,
in refusing his men these indulgences, -which it should have
been his pleasure, as it certainly would have been his best
policy, as well as his duty, to have gl-anted, he was weaken
ing his authority by stretching it too far — a more common
mistake in the service than officers are at all apt to imagine.
A rather ludicrous circumstance, which occurred while we
lay. here, helped to enliven a little the usual monotony ofa
ship's deck while in harbor. A comical sort of fellow, -of the
name of Morris, belonging to one of the companies on board,
who used to sing Nigger songs, and who, being a very good
mimic, could act the Nigger admirably, resolved to turn his
talents to account b}' assuming the character while in harbor,
and passing himself off among his comrades, except a few

, AN AMUSING COMEDV. - 47
who were in his confidence, as a black cook belonging to the
ship — his. twofold motive for thus "workiijg the dodge." as
he styled it,' being partly the fun he expected from the mys
tification of ' the men and officers, and partly that he might
be aUowed to bring whiskey into the ship, there, being no
hindrance to the ship's crew bringing goods on board, as our
sentries could not interfere with them. Borrowing, therefore, .
an -old pair of canyas trousers, , a Guernsey shirt, and tar
paulin hat from a sailor, and thoroughly engraining- his face
and hands with the sooty' composition requisite to give him
the true Ethiopian complexion, he became quite invulnerable
to detection by his -coat of darkness. -In- this disguise he
rolled about the de.ck during the whole of the forenoon in a
partial state of intoxication, ahd came and went between the
vessel and shote, carryiag baskets and parcels of suspicious
import with the most perfect impunity. Towards evening,
he began to sing snatches of Nigger songs, varying the exhi
bition 'with a "flare-up" jawing match 'with some of the, sol
diers, in the sort of gibberish and broken English, so peculiar
to the woolly-headed sons of Ham. , This comedy afforded
considerable amusement, especially to those of his comrades
in the secret of his -disguise. . -As he was dexterous in the
tongue fence of those encounters of rude wit, and knowing
the chinks ih the.armpr of his opponents, he was sometimes
able, by a seemingly careless though cunning thrust, to ad
minister a sickener to their vanity, which was the more gaUing
as seeming to.eome from a dirty and -half-drunken 'Nigger.
" Ah, soger," he would say to some poor fellow- whom he
saw casting a longing eye towards the busy thoroughfares .of
the city, " captain not let you o-o shore, eh ? Too bad, eh ?
much sooner be black ship's cook than soger." " What's that
you say, you Nigger?" -would most probably be the reply of
the soldiei-, not being in the best tempc-)-, and rather indig-

48 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER. IN MEXICO.
nant at fhe. idea of being an object 'Pf , commiseration to a
Nigger. " Who you call Nigger,- eh ? Nigger-'y ourself, sar ;
more Nigger, a good sight, than ship's, cook; sar ;, ship's cPols ¦
gc ashore wheh he please, and get drunk -like gentleman,. sar;
ypu^a white soger Nigger, me black -ship's cook Nigger — dat ;
aU de difference." Then, as if in -soUloquy, in a deprecatory
tone, "Eh! by Jorze, bofl'. poor -Niggers; soger moss as spec-
table as colored Nigger when he keep heself sober and
behave screetly, like color gemman." Stung .and irritated by
the mock sympathy of the Nigger, the soldier would now be
for taking a suriimary revenge out of his, ignoble cai-case,
when some of the darkey's friends would interpose, declaring
tbat he was a- good fellow, and_ they' would not see hijn ill-
used. In the meahtime, Morris was^suppo.sed bythe orderly
sergeant of his company to be absent in town, and as such
reported to the captain- Thus far, all had.gone oii swim
mingly; but there vtas a bit of a rafher unpleasant .sui-prise
preparmg for him as the denouement t-o this farce, ,whicb-he
had' a-cted with so much success, which- had probably not
entered into his conception pf the character, but mightily
increased the di-amatic effect pf the representation "as a
•vhole. ' •
The captain of his company,, who was a bit of a hu
mourist, either having- detected the- masquerader himself, or
having been informed by some busy person of the strange -
metamorphosis whicii one of his mem had undergone, it
occurred to. him that he ha4 an opportunity of giving him a
taste of Nigger discipline, that .might make him feel, more
vividly the character he had been representing -with so much
- applause, 'Sauntering, accordingly,' along the deck, -vvith his
hands behind him, until he arrived opppSite the circle where
Morris was exhibiting his antics, he deliberately stepped .for
ward and seized, him by the collar, and puUing out a ra-w •

THE DENOUEMENT OF THE COMEDV. 49
cowhide, frpm behind his back, he began to vigorpusly bela
bour poor darkey's shoulders. " 0 Lor, massa ! O Golly !
What you trike poor debU for ? What hell dia ?" shouted Mor
ris, who had no idea that he was discovered, and was wiUing
to submit to a moderate degree of chastisement rather than
drop his disguise at that particular juncture. " You infer
nal grinning scoundrel," cries the captain, still vigorously
applying the cowhide, " I have been watching you quarrelling
with and aggravating my men all this afternoon ; what do
you mean, you black rascal, eh ? Curse your ugly black
countenance, I'll beat you to a' jelly, you scoundrel." As he
StiU continued his discipline -with the cowhide, showing no
symptoms of speedily leaving off, Morris, who was smarting
with pain, at last began to think more of preserving his skin
than his incognito, and called out lustily, " Captain,, I say —
stop ! I am no Nigger — I am a soldier !" At this there
was a general burst of laughter from the soldiers, who
crowded round, and seemed to enjoy the scene amazingly ;
those who did not know that Morris was actuaUy a soldier,
laughing still more obstreperously at the seeming absurdity
of the Nigger's assertion. The captain, though evidently
tickled, seemed in no hurry to let him go ; " Do you hear the
impudence of the black rascal ? he says he is a soldier !"
said the captain, addressing the men who were standing
round. " There, does he look like a soldier ?" he continued,
as he tumed him round for inspection. " Go along, you
black rascal, and don't let me catch you among my men
again, or I will certainly serve you out -with a few more of
the same sort." So saying, and administering a few parting
salutations of the cowhide as he released him, the captain
walked off, chuckling to himself at the joke, which I saw
him relating afterwards to some of his brother officers, to
their infinite mirth, if one might judge from the peals of
3

50 AD-VENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
laughter which his story eUcited. In the meantime, Morris
was fain to get rid ofhis Nigger character as quickly as pos
sible ; and having, with the aid of warm water and soap,
effected this, he made his appearance on deck, and reported
hunself as having been asleep in the hold when the roU was
called. This the sergeant reported to the captain, who, satis
fied, it is probable, with the punishment he had administered
-with the cowhide, affected to believe his statement, and sent
him word by the sergeant to take better care in future.
While we lay at the wharf, we had a crowd of inquisitive
idlers in constant attendance round the vessel, all of whom
seemed particularly anxious to leam our destination. To the
often-repeated question on this all-absorbing topic, the inva
riable answer was that we were going to Mexico. This beiag
in the most perfect accordance vrith the preconception, as
well as the ideas of propriety of the inquirer, was of course
perfectly satisfactory, and therefore implicitly believed. The
fact is, that had they been told the simple truth that we
were going to Florida, they would either have suspected their
informant of teUing a Ue, or considered him ignorant of the
true destination. They had made up their minds that we
were going to Mexico, and our men thought it just as weU
to agree with them fpr the shprt time we were to be in their
company.

CHAPTER V.
The Soldier at Sea.
About nine p'clcck, on the moming of the I7th, the tide
being fuU, we immoored ship, and with a fair wind, stood out
of harbour. With a fine, steady, though light breeze, 'We
sailed pleasantly past forts and Ught-houses, gUding along by
a miserably barren-looking coast, consisting for the most part
of strangely rugged and fantastic looking piles of grey and
weather-beaten rocks, and low sandy islets, covered with
rushes or stunted grass, the only sign of vegetation visible.
In the evening we caught a glimpse of Cape Cod in the dis
tance, but passed it during the night, and on the morning of
the 18th we found ourselves on the open sea.
A soldier at sea generally finds himself very disagreeably
situated. Accustomed to strict personal cleanliness, and in
the habit of keeping his arms and appointments in a high
state of order when in quarters, he feels completely out of
his element in a transport, where, even under the most
favourable circumstances, he is utterly unable to attend to a
number of those things so essential to his feelings of com
fort. On the present occasion, however, we were more com
fortably situated than is usuaUy the case with soldiers in a
govemment transport, the vessel we were in being double
the size of that we were entitled to by the rules of the ser-
¦vice. Yet we were by no means tpp comfortable, or in pos
session of a great deal of superfluous space ; the fact is, that
in ordinary cases soldiers are usuaUy stowed away when at ,

52 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
sea, more like cattle, or hogs, on a Dublin and Liverpool
steamer, than human beings ; and the exemption from this in
the present instance was haUed' as a blessing. But this cir
cumstance, so much in our favour, was not caused by any
extraordinary or particular extension of courtesy or kindness
shown to us by those in authority. It arose simply from the
Albatross being in want of a cargo for Mobile, a port -within
a short distance of the one we were destined to, and where
she was to ship a cargo of cotton for Liverpool. A vessel of
half the size, if specially chartered for the purpose, would
have cost government as much, or probably more ; while
adding most incalculably to our discomfort, and giving rise
to innumerable heinous infractions of the third command
ment, had the present chance not turned up in our favom-.
The arrangements for accommodation between decks, were
much the same as those usually made in emigrant vessels ;
a row of two berths, one above the other, ran along each side
of the vessel, and a third simUar pne in the centre ; lea-ring
a tolerably vride passage on each side of the centre row as a
gangway. A portion of the hold was separated by a boarded
partition, for the use of the married people. In time of
peace, three married men of each company are allowed
(their wives being laundresses, and washing for the soldiers,)
to bring their families along with them when mo-ring. Each
of these married men is aUowed separate quarters for
himself and family when in garrison, also rations for his
wife, who is paid a stated sum by each soldier for whom they
wash. When one of these married men is discharged, if
more applicants than one should apply for the vacant situa
tion, the Captain gives it to the one he considers the best de
serving. When going on active service, neither officers nor
soldiers are permitted to take their -wives or families along
with them.

HOW TO TREAT SEA-SICKNESS. 63
On the evening of the 18th, the breeze having freshened,
a number of the men began to experience the usual efiects
produced on the stomach of a land-lubber by the motion of
a vessel at sea. Of course we had a repetition of a few of
those mouldy old practical jests which have been in use on
board ship on these occasions from time immemorial ; those
in the enjoyment oftheir usual health and spn-its seeming to
consider the unfortunate individuals suffering from this an
noying sickness fair game, and a legitimate object of mirth,
in place of sympathy. One of the oldest jokes perpetrated
on these occasions, must be familiar to every soldier who has
ever made a sea voyage, and is played-off somewhat after the
following manner. The hoaxer pretending great sympathy
'with the sufferings of the afiUcted, states that he has heard
of a most exceUent remedy, of simple and easy application,
and certain in its results. Should he succeed in engaging
the interest and attention of his audience, the insidious de
sign of the hoaxer is accomplished; he immediately pro
ceeds to describe the simple and never-known-to-fail remedy,
which consists of the foUowing recipe, " Take a good large
sUce of fat pork tied to a string." The bare mention of fat
pork, without the rank atrocity and diabolical intent impUed
in the attached string, is quite sufficient to raise the gorge
of his intended victims, who selddta. wait to hear the conclu
sion of the recipe ; while the hoaxer shows the cloven hoof
by an obstreperous and demoniacal fit of laughter as the
pale faces flit past him to lean over the bulwarks, and won
der, while paying their tribute to Neptune, what pleasure one
rational being can derive from the sufferings of another.
This practice of turning the sufferings of ^e sea-sick into
ridicule, and which seems so strange and unfeeling, arises, I am
inclined to think, from a good rather than a bad nfotive ;
ewing its origin, prpbably, tp the circumstance that the

64 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
exertion requisite to overcome sea-sickness and its consequent
torpor, is most effectually promoted by the fear of this ridi
cule. I have often seen strong men, from a want of the
requisite energy to throw off this torpor and counteract its
effects by moderate exercise and the fresh air of the deck,
sink into a critically dangerous state of illness, nearly ending
in death from exhaustion, the stomach ceasing to perform its
functions, and the whole frame being reduced to a mere
skeleton. The sailors on board ship are always told off into two
watches, one of which is constantly kept upon deck for the
performance of the necessary work of the vessel. These
watches relieve each other every four hours, but in a gale, or
when a sudden squall is apprehended, all hands remain con
stantly on deck until the danger is supposed to be over.
Soldiers being reckoned worse than useless in a gale of vrind,
are bundled below with very smaU ceremony when the wea
ther looks dangerous, with the occasional exception of a few
of the more active, retained to assist the seamen. O-wing to
the disUke of the soldiers to remain below, it sometimes hap
pens that the Captain or mate of the vessel finds it necessary
to complain to the officer of the day, that the soldiers are in
the way of their men in working the ship. In this case the
officer gives instruction to the sergeant of the guard, who soon
sees all the soldiers down below ; after which the gratings
are put on the hatchways, and a sentry placed over each,
with orders to allow none of the men to come upon deck.
In the meantime the s;jene below is one of " most admired
disorder,'' women ejaculating, chUdren screaming, soldiers
cursing, swearing, singing, dancing, and making every sort
of uncouth and dissonant noise imaginable, a few of the more
energetic radicals, locofocos, or physical force chartists, ha
ranguing theh- comrades meanwhUe upon the propriety of

SCENES IN A TROOP-SHIP. 55
breaking the hatches open, and forcing their way upon deck
hi spite of the sentry, and the arbitrary and tyrannical pro
hibition of the officer of the day, a proposition usually haUed
-with acclamation and adopted nem. con. But, ere " screwing
their courage to the sticking point," "The native hue of
resolution is sicklied o'er with the pale cast of thought," and
the suggestion thro-wn out by some milk-and-water moral
force advocate, relative to the pains and penalties attached
to mutiny, and deforcement of sentries, in the " Articles of
War,^' cautions the rash and fiery sphits of incipient rebellion,
that "tis better to bear those iUs they have, than fly to
others, which they know not of." And thus this enterprise
of such pith and moment, like most of those of the physical
force chartists, ends in "mere sound and fm-y, signffying
nothing." This coniinement, however, being only for the
purpose of preventing the saUors from being impeded in their
work whUe taking in sail, seldom lasts more than half an
hour, or an hour. As soon as everything is snug upon deck,
the gratings are removed from the hatchways ; and glimpses
of light, and hope, and currents of fresh air, circulate through
the hold once more ; whUe our moral force advocate emerg
ing from the pestiferous atmosphere, triumphs in the progress
of a rational sanitary reform.
Soldiers on board ship are usually told off into three
watches ; this is done to prevent the over-crowding the hold,
by keeping one third of their number constantly on deck ;
each watch remaining four hours on deck in succession. On
the present occasion the custom of telling off into watches
was dispensed with, very much tp our satisfaction ; the Alba
tross being large and roomy enough, in the opinion of the
officer commanding, to render the observance of the regula
tion unnecessary. StiU, throughout the whole of the voyage
the rules for cleaning and ventUating the ship were strictly

56 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
maintained ; these being of the most essential importance to
the health and comfort *f troops on board ship, too much
rigour can scarcely be used by officers in enforcing their
observance. A sergeant, corporal, and twelve men mounted
guard every morning at nine o'clock ; two sentries were
posted between decks, one at each end of the vessel, for the
purpose of preserving order, and taking charge of the lights
which hung in large glass globe lamps, one at each hatch
way, during the whole night. Other two sentries were
placed on deck, one having charge of the water cask, where
our daUy supply of fi-esh water was kept, to prevent any
waste, or undue use of it ; while the other had orders to
check quarrelling, or gi-oss improprieties, and preserve order
generally on deck. Every morning immediately after guard
mounting, all hands, men, women, and chUdren, were tumed
upon deck ; unless in rough, or very wet weather, when the
rule was not enforced. The police, consisting of the non
commissioned officers and men whp came off guard on the
pre-rious morning, then went below, and scraped, and after
wards washed the fioor of the lower deck. Afterwards they
fumigated between decks with tar, and sprinkled the floor
with chloride of lime ; they alsp brpught iip a day's supply
of fuel and fresh water from the lower hold for the use of the
soldiers. The spldiers always brought up their o-wn wood
and water, and had a cook and cooking place of their own ;
as well as being lodged in a distinct portion of the ship
called the forecastle. After the hol d had been cleaned, it was
inspected by the officer of the day, to see that the duty had
been properly performed, and that the bedding and clothes
belonging to the men were neatly folded and arranged in
their respective berths. In fine weather the whole of the bed
ding was brought upon deck and well aired, and none of the
men were permitted to go below without special permission,

DEARTH OF LITERATURE. 67
until the whole were allowed do-wn in the evening. When T
speak here of bedding, I mean the soldier's blanket, which in
the .United States service he always carries along with him ;
there are no mattresses for a soldier to lie upon on board ship
in the American service.
As these were all the duties we had to perform while on
board, it vrill be seen that we had very Uttle to do, or to
occupy our attention during the greater portion of our time,
which, as usual under like circumstances, hung heavy on our
hands. The fortunate few who could obtain books, were
assiduous in their endeavours to convert the tedium, of a sea
voyage into a source of enjoyment, but unfortunately tho
supply of literature fell far short of the demand ; the natural
result foUowed; holders grew. firm, and books were at an
immense premium. I could scarce help fancying how exceed
ingly gratifying it would have been to the literary vanity of
the authors of "The Bloody Bandit of the Lion's Glen,"
" The Mysterious Hand," and others of that genus, could they
have witnessed the surprising request in which their produc-
¦tions were held, and the apparent gusto -with which their
intensely melo-dramatic scenes were devoured on board our
vessel. It was truly wonderful, the sudden change -wrought
in the value of scraps of printed paper ; everything of which
sort seemed to " suffer a sea change into something rich and
strange." An old newspaper became suddenly invested with
a remarkable degree of Uterary interest, and a dozen would
have bespoken, and be waiting in rotation for the perusal of
the fi-agment of some old third-rate novel, or antedilu-rian
magazine, as eagerly as the most impatient reader watches
for his favourite monthly. Under these circumstances, unless
one had something to offer by way of quid pro quo, reading
was totaUy out of the question. In this emergency it
occurred to BiU Nutt, the yPung man whpm I mentipned as
3*

58 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
having beep told off as my comrade in a former chapter, to
offer a sort of succedaneum, a written journal of the transac
tions on board. Accordingly on the morning of Sept. 20th
a placard containing the foUowing announcement might have
been seen pasted up on a conspicuous part of the hatchway
of the good ship Albatross. ' Albatross, 20th Sept. 1845.
" THE JOURNAL OF THE ALBATROSS.
" Tp-morrow moming will appear the first number of a
journab bearing the above title, to be published daily (wea
ther permitting), at our office near the cook's gaUey, on
board of the Albatross. This joumal 'wUl consist of at
least eight quarto pages in legible handwriting : it 'wiU con
tain, besides ' The News of the Day,' ' Critical Notices,'
' Letters of Correspondents,' and ' Advertisements,' a general
summary of all the stirring and striking events, daUy, hourly,
and minutely acted and transacted, before the eyes, and as
it were under the noses, of this strange conglomeration of
¦unfortunate humanity now on board. Amalgamated, mixed
up, and bound up, as it were in our fortunes, by the inextri
cable and inexplicable decrees of the three sisters, and the
immutable and inscrutable workings of destiny, who in forg
ing the chain of circumstances that at present surroimd us,
has obviously decided that, sink or swim, we should sail down
the stream of time in this wooden prison for a certain period
in company ; it becomes us to make the term of confinement
seem as short as possible. With a view to this result, seve
ral of the motley indi-riduals forming part of the worshipful
society here assembled, have come to the resolution of pub
lishing this daily record of remarkable events and occur-

A MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL. 5-9
rences ; for which contributions are respectfully solicited
from all lovers of light literature. In the confident expecta
tion of receiving the cordial support of the community, we
have only to announce that contributions will be received at
our office near the cook's galley, where tei-ms of subscription
and fuU particulars may be learned."
Next mprning accordingly, and -with one or two exceptions
in squally weather, every successive morning that we re
mained on board, there regularly appeared a sheet of mis
cellaneous matter, -written in a plain legible hand ; it was
attached by a string to the cook's galley, and extensively
read by sailors and soldiers, exciting considerable merriment
and good-humoured criticism. Several of these fugitive
pieces, -written by Nutt, I preserved until lately, and as
a specimen of his humour, and a sample of the Journal, I
insert one or two of them.

" SOMETHING IN THE WIND.
" Last evening before going to press, we could see with
haff a glance of our weather eye that there was something
serious in the wind, something exceedingly ominous looking,
in short, something more than merely dirty weather. The
term dirty weather, by the bye, we may as well remark for
the information of several and upwards of our readers not
perhaps aware of the fact, being a vague definite term, gene
rally used by spoony individuals in the vain efforts they
make to stimulate indifference, and conceal their apprehen
sion of a severe blow. Instantaneously stopping the press,
we immediately hurried upon deck, and found that, as usual,
we were tolerably correct in our' surmise. In fisict, there were

60 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
several palpable and distinct indications of a stiffener to
-wind'ard, sufficiently alarming to the owners of weak or
delicate nerves ; who, ff they cannot resolve upon leaving
such articles ashore, are most decidedly in the -wrong box
¦with them aboard. On going for'ard to where the second
mate — one of those hardy weather-beaten sons of Neptune
with whom we are on tolerably familiar terms — ^was stand
ing gazing at the rigging, we asked his private opinion of
things in general, and the present rather critical aspect of
affairs in particular. He replied in his gruff ' deep-toned
voice,' that we are sure ' did not falter,' that we were ' a
going to catch particular d — n — ^n, and no mistake.' In the
meantime, the gallant crew of the Albatross behaved with
the cool decision one naturally expects to characterise a
crew, composed principally of freeborn and fuU-blooded
Yankee sailors. We distinctly observed one gaUant fellow
while holding on by a bowUne waiting for orders, deUbe
rately put his hand into his breeches pocket. This reminds
us that we have heard sneering sceptics deny the existence
of pockets in sailors' smallclothes, a malignant slander,
which we here refute in the most emphatic manner, as the
egregiously contemptible fabrication of ignorant and pre
sumptuous blockheads. This gallant son of Neptune, we
reiterate, putting his hand into his breeches pocket, drew
from thence a plug of Virginia tobacco, and eyeing it with a
look of affection, as if calculating the probabihty of Its
being the last time it should ever express its fragrant juice,
he heaved a sigh, took a vigorous bite, returned the plug to
his pocket, and stood cahnly awaiting the order of his supe
rior. In the meantime, the ' blustering railer, rude Boreas,'
Beeing our state of preparation, and that we were not to be
easily hove aback, or finished with a blow, sneaked off to
le'ward ; where, should' he catch an unfortunate skimmer of

A MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL. 61
the seas napping while in his present humom-, -without walk
ing into several of his sails and spars, you may have our
hat. In the meantime, we may look out for squalls, the
usual phenomena of these latitudes, but in the words of
the song — " ' 'With a stout vessel and crew,
"We'll say let the storm come do-wn.' "

" LOST.
" A good sound apitite as bin lost sum wares on board of
the Halbert Ross by a wery nice sort of yung man, who
remanes in a most diskonselat stat ever sense the misfortun
okurd, not bein abel to konsum mor nor a trifel of fore or
five pounds of bisket and pork in a day sense the axident.
Who ever as found the same on deliverin it at the office of
the jurnal, vrill be ansumly rewarded. N.B. The yUng
man as lost his'n, as found an osses, wich -wiU be glad to
part with reznabel." " FREE CONCERTS.
" On our way home last evening, we called at the free con
cert held in the forecastle, which, we were glad to perceive,
was vei-y weU attended. We were highly i.mused -with the
singing of several of the distinguished vocaUsts who favoured
the company with their sweet voices, and which, as the
' Bard of Avon' somewhere remarks on a similar occasion,
' To hear by the noise, it sounds like dulcet in contagion.'
In fact, the singing, while it might have been worse, one
could scarcely, under the circumstances, expect it to be

62 AD-VENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
much better. As a sUght quaUfication, however, to what
may appear our too partial encomiums, we would beg, with
all due deference to the superior judgment of the gentlemen
having the direction of the proceedings at these social enter
tainments, to offer a suggestion. It is simply this, that every
gent, on rising to sing, ought to state to the company whe
ther the song with which he intends to favour them is of the
comic or sentimental class. At a first glance, we have no
doubt our honest suggestion will appear to the fastidiously
critical, or the critically fastidious, to be in-ridious or uncalled
for ; we are prepared for this ; but it is -with a just pride that
we announce to our readers, that we have never yet swerved
to the right or to the left, or shrunk from the performance
of a stern or necessary duty by the fear of criticism or con
sequence. With this animating reflection actuating us, we
candidly put the foUo-wing question : — If sentimental gents
wiU sing sentimental songs, out of aU tune, and with a comic
voice, accent, and manner, and ff comic songs are treated
vice versd, how is an unsophisticated person able to compre
hend this inverted system of ' untwisting aU the Unks that
tie the hidden soul of harmony ?' I assure my readers I
went last night to hear the singing, -with a desire to be
pleased, if ever mortal critic had that desire (which may be
questioned). 'What was the result ? Disgust, disgust of the
most unqualified, unmitigated, and contemptuous character.
One of the gents in the sentimental Une tried ' Alice Grey' '
and ' Oft in the Stilly Night,' and the audience were con
vulsed with laughter, while a comic gent tipped them ' Nix
my Dolly' in such a doleful and lugubrious style as to cause
the company to wear the air of a funeral-party. I need say
no more. I trust, in future, that each gent, who rises to
sing at these free concerts wiU signify in a plain, straightfor
ward, off-hand, and up and dovra manner, whether his song

gambling on SHIP-BOARD. 63
is sentimental or comic, in which case they may safely cal
culate on the favour and slightly qualified applause of
"Daniel Damper."
Among the methods adopted to pass time on board, card-
playing was the most popular and engrossing. Non-com
missioned officers and privates, seated in groups on the fore
castle in fine weather, and between decks when it rained,
played at the game of poker from moming till night. Poker
is the national game of cards in America. It is played by
gamblers of all classes, to the exclusion of almost all other
modes of gambling, and being a peculiarly exciting game,
it exerts an inconceivably fascinating influence over its
votaries. During our present voyage, I have frequently seen
a private soldier rise from a single sitting the -winner of forty
» or fifty dollars ; and in a few hours, having again sat do-wn
to play, he would probably have lost it all, and as much
more as he could borrow, 'without seeming either much ele
vated or depressed by the smiles or frowns of the fickle god
dess. It may surprise some how soldiers could be in posses
sion of such large sums of money. It happened simply
thus : — Two of the companies had been paid a short time
previous to their embarkation, the men had thus no opportu
nity of getting rid of their superabundant capital ; an opera
tion which, when ashore, they usually perform -vrith astonish
ing facility. A private's pay in the Infantry is seven dollars
a month, and he is paid every two months ; one dollar
a month is retained until the expiration of his service. Thus
at pay-day tho private receives twelve dollars ; the sergeant
twenty-six ; the corporal eighteen ; the musicians sixteen ; no
pay being retained from any of these ranks except the pri
vate. Most of the soldiers are more or less addicted to gam
bUng, and thus large smns of money are frequently in the

64 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
hands of the practised gamblers about pay-time, sometimes
amounting to hundreds of dollars in possession of five or six
of the most skifful. GambUng is strictly prohibited by the
rules of the service, but the difficulty of enforcing the rule,
owing partly to laxity of discipline, and partly to the exceed
ingly badly-arranged system of paying the soldiers two
months' pay at a time, in place of daily or weekly, renders
the prohibition a, dead letter.
We had an excellent regimental band on board, and
in fine weather our officers had it up on deck to play for an
hour or two in the evening. This practice had a markedly
enlivening effect upon the spirits, and must have helped
materiaUy to promote health, as it evidently exerted a bene
ficial influence in promoting a cheeiful hilarity and good-
humour among the men. It was interesting to observe the
sudden change from blank and listless apathy to brisk and*
animated cheerfulness which some weU-known and favourite
air produced in the countenances of all ; the strains of
" Auld lang syne" calling forth the latent smUe on cheeks
and lips, and kindling the languid eye of the most melan
choly and morose. My friend Nutt, when remarking on this
effect one morning, said he could almost believe in the
authenticity of the miracles ascribed to the music of
Amphion and Orpheus, as he had himseff -witnessed a most
astounding transformation effected in the person of the boat
swain of the ship, whose " savage breast " had been so
thoroughly soothed by music's magic speU, that he had
observed him once, while under its powerful influence, talk
ing in the tones, manner, and accent of a civilized being.
I mentioned that Nutt had been on board a British man-
of-war during a three years' cruise. One day, when seated
in a quiet corner of the deck, I reminded him of a promise
he had formerly made to give me a sketch of the events of

A YARN IN PROSPECT. 65
his earlier years, which had resulted in a young man of good
abilities, and brought up to a good trade, being seduced into
such rambling and unsatisfactory modes of life as that of a
sailor or a soldier. After a preliminary " well here goes for
a yam," he commenced the foUcwing narrative. As it pro
fesses to be a true chapter in the early life of my comrade, I
vrill give it as nearly as I can recollect in his cwn manner,
devoting a chapter specially to the purpose.

CHAPTER VL
A Modern Soldier of Fortune.
I SUPPOSE you know that I am a Cockney. I was bom and
brought up vrithin the sound of those famous bells of Bow,
whose voice, speaking through the legends of chUdhood, has
warned many an incipient mayor and alderman to turn
again, when half inclined to "cut" the paternal mansion,
and the precincts of their guardians' influence ; and who,
following the admonition of the affectionate monitors, have
risen to emulate the wealth at least, ff not the fame or the
virtues, of the reno-wned Whittington, of " thrice Lord Mayor
of London " celebrity. I really can't recollect whether theso
bells warned me or not on the morning when I resolved upon
lea-ring "the old house at home,'' and looking out a little
into the world. Certainly, if they did, I paid very httle
attention to them, being wholly taken up 'with my object of
getting off unnoticed by any of my acquaintances, who
might, when they heard I was gone, be likely to indicate the
route I had taken, in which case I was afraid my father
would follow and bring me back.
, My father, who was a carver and gilder in extensive busi
ness, had brought me up to the same trade, which I had
learned with facility and aptitude, and for a year or two pre
vious to my leaving him, though then only seventeen years
of age, I had been of great "use to him, as I did as much
work, and of as good quality, as many of the journeymen to
whom he was giving employment. My mother died when I

AN UNHAPPY HOME. 67
was a child in the arms of a nurse, and before I was old
enough to recollect the event, my father had married again.
My stepmother was a very good sort of woman as stepmo
thers go, and I had no fault to find -with her treatment of
me ; perhaps she liked her own children, of whom she had
three by my father, better than my sister and myself, and it
¦ is probable that home might have been happier ff my own
mother had lived. Still our stepmother never showed any
marked preference for her own children, nor ever treated my
sister or me harshly or unjustly ; and could not be blamed ff
she did not possess all that warmth of affection which a
mother can have only for her o-wn. My father unfortunately
had a quick and violent temper, which was a good deal
aggravated by a habit of tippling into which he had fallen ;
and frequently for trifling causes of offence, when he hap
pened to be in one of his ill-tempered moods, he beat me so
severely that at last I became apprehensive he would one day
do me a serious injury. It was after receiving one of these
drubbings that I resolved upon lea-ring home. I was then
about seventeen years of age, and wanted four years of being
out of my apprenticeship ; my father having bound me by
indenture to serve him for seven years ; but, as I said before,
I could work at the business as well as a good many of the
journeymen. Here, in America (and this is one thing in
which I must give Jonathan the credit of ha'ringgone rather
ahead of the old countries), it matters not whether a man
serves an apprenticeship, or how he acquires the skill or pro
ficiency to wprk at his trade or calUng. " Is he able to do
his work ?" is the only question asked, and abUity is the only
test required. But in England the case is widely different,
as I had soon reason to deplore. I was leaving home with
the intention of working at my trade in some counti-y town
out of the knowledge, and beyond the reach, of my father.

68 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
I had only about fifty shillings when I left home, twenty of
which I got from my sister, whom I made my confidant, and
who did all she could to alter my determination, but seeing
that I was firmly resolved upon going, she gave me a sove
reign, maldng me promise to write to her, a promise which I
never fulfiUed.
I had no fixed intention of going to any place in particu
lar when I left our house ; but in passing a coach-office
where a coachful pf passengers was on the point of starting
for Portsmouth, and on inquiry, learning there was room for
one on the outside, I took a seat, and was soon rapidly whirl
ing along the road. We soon left the dome of St. Paul's an
indistinct, dim, and visionary outline, and away we burst
with a glorious canter into the ftesh air of the open country,
where even the cloud of the foggy Babylon itseff was soon
left, far behind. There was a young sailor on the top of the
coach, going to Portsmouth to join his vessel, ha-ring been up
in London on a visit to his friends. He and I were soon
engaged in conversation, when he gave me a long account of
his cruise in the Mediterranean, and the adventures of his
last three years on board a man-of-war. He described the
life of a sailor in glowing terms, and wondered how any per
son could prefer a dull Iffe on shore, who had the choice of
the merry and easy Iffe led on board one of Her Majesty's
ships. Though I was much amused -with his conversation, I
did not feel in the least inclined to wish myself one of the
jolly crews he talked of More especially as he spoke of
some of the officers he had served imder as regular Tartars,
one of whose eccentricities consisted in making a few of the
men Mss the gunner's daughter of a moi-ning before break
fast. This kissing the gunner's daughter, which rather puz-^,
zled me at first, I found on inquiry was an amusing practice
they had of tying a sailor up to the breech of a gun, and

A RUNAWAY APPRENTICE. 69
inflicting two dozen lashes on his bare back -with a cat o'nine
tails, by the hands of the boatswain.
We arrived in Portsmouth early in the evening, and I
accompanied the young sailor to a tavem, where we had
supper together, and engaged lodgings for the night. We
afterwards went to the theatre, and passed the night away
pleasantly together. I told him I had left home, and was
strongly persuaded by him to enter the vessel in which he
was going ; it would take me, he said, on the ratings as a boy
for a three years' cruise, during which I might learn to be a
good sailor ; the vessel was for the West India station and
would sail in a few days. But I steadily resisted all his argu
ments, thinking I had only to look for employment to find
plenty of it, and not ha-ring the sUghtest desire for a sea life,
which I had always pictured to myself as one of great hard
ship and ill-usage. Next moming after breakfast, I went
down to the Point with him, and saw him take a boat to go
on board of his vessel, which lay at Spithead.
I wandered about PT)rtsmouth for the remainder of that
and several succeeding days, looking for employment at my
trade ; but though I found several shops where the masters
would have been vriUing to employ me if I had been able to
show that I had served, an apprenticeship, I soon found that
without that, I had no chance. It was in vain that I pffered
to work for half wages, it was quite against the rules of the
trade, and though tall and stout of my age, any person might
see I was too yPung to have served an apprenticeship ; in fact
I beUeve most of them guessed the true state of the case, that
I was only a runaway boy. This was a serious disappoint
ment to my hopes ; hpwever, partly thrpugh pride, and
partly through a dread of the punishment I would receive in
aU probabUity from my father ff I returned, I determined to
stay away untU reduced to the last extremity. In the mean-

70 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
time I resolved to try the country towns, thinking it possible
that by jobbing, and showing my ability to work, together
¦with offering to work for low wages, I might eventuaUy, per
haps, succeed in finding permanent employment. Flattering
myself with this idea, I started for the country. I travelled
through several counties on foot, sometimes getting a few
days' work in one tovm, and then compelled to set off to ano
ther to look for fresh employment. During this period I
often dined off beans, or turnips, in the fields, and very glad
I was to get them too ; and I have several times been glad
to find a bed in some convenient hayrick. At length one
evening I was standing at a toll bridge, fahly beaten up ;
starved -with hunger, tired, and footsore. To make matters
worse, the churlish tollman, cursing my impudence in at
tempting to set up a plea of poverty to induce him to let me
pass free, threatened to set his dog on me if I did not take
myself off the same way I came. " Friend, thou art sparing
in good deeds, ahd liberal in thy use of bad words, I fear,"
said a mild voice a short distance behind me, and turning
round I saw a good-natured looking gentleman, in the broad
brimmed hat and plain coat of the Quaker. The toUman
became very suddenly red in the face at this address, not
having observed the approach of the old gentleman, who
probably had some control over him in his situation, as I saw
him talking to him for some time in a tone of rebuke. On
going away he motioned me to follow, which I was not slow
to do, you may be sure, especially as upon glancing at the
tollman I saw he did not consider himself much obliged to
me for the lecture he had just received from the Quaker.
The old gentleman, who thpugh stput and healthy Ipoking,
and of a cheerful and ruddy complexion, was, I should think,
close upon sixty years of age, waited untU I came up to him,
when he began to ask a few questions relating to my pre-

THE BENEVOLENT QUAKER. 71
sent condition, and how I came to be travelling in that
destitute manner. I told him I had been traveUing and
looking for employment as a carver and gilder, mentioning
some of the tcwns at which I had found a job, but that not
being able to find permanent employment in the country, I
was making my way back to Portsmouth. But he was not
satisfled with this statement apparently, which I imagined
he suspected left the main poiut untold, and continued to
question me, until I became fairly puzzled, and involved in
several contradictions. You will think it strange that a big
lad of seventeen should begin to cry at an old fellow asking
him a few simple questions, but such was the case though.
It is now six years ago, and I recoUect it as if it were yester
day ; it is strange how easily the head pumps are set a-going
sometimes. The kind and benevolent tones of the old
, gentleman as he questioned me, mingled -with a feeling of
shame at the incoherence of my replies, fairly overcame me ;
at the same time I was weak, and probably hysterical, from
a long abstinence from food, and so sitting down by the
roadside I hid my face in my hands, and blubbered like a
big schoolboy after a whipping.
On recovering, I found the old gentleman was still along
side, evidently resolved to keep me in tow. " Come, my
lad," said he, when I had got up on my feet, " thou art tired
and footsore, my house is. not far off, come along with me
and thou mayest have thy feet washed, a supper, and a bed,
and if thee doesn't like to teU thy story I shall not ask thee."
Rousing myself up, and feeling ashamed at the false state
ments in which- 1 had been detected, and which. had led to
the singular childish symptoms I had exhibited, while travel
Ung along the road, I gave him a true and succinct relation
of my cu-cumstances, and my reason for quitting home.
'When I had concluded, he said he thought he could give

72 ADVENTURES OF A BPLDIER IN MEXICO.
me some employment that would occupy me a few days,
and during that time my feet would recover, and he would
think of some advice tha,t might be useful to me.
We soon arrived at the old gentleman's house, a genteel
cottage a little off the highway, with a fine ornamented
lawn in fi-ont, and a spacious garden in rear. His wife, a
fine, cheerful, quiet looking old lady, came to the gate to
meet him. He told her in a few words the circumstance
under which he had found me, and it was speedily evident
by her actions, that she rejoiced at the opportunity of exer
cising her benevolence. An abundant supply of warm
water, with soap and towel, were speedily at my disposal,
and ha-ring washed my feet, I was furnished with clean
stockings and slippers. I then partook of an excellent
supper, to which I did ample justice, and soon afterwards was
shown to a good bed. I was treated with unvarying kind
ness while I remained -with these exceUent people, a period of
eight day^, during which I cleaned, and freshly gilded, the
frames of a number of pictures belongmg to them. I
received much excellent advice from them both, and the old
gentleman, to whom I had faithfully promised te proceed
home, gave me a letter addressed to my father, and two sove
reigns, on the morning I left. I had not earned more than
half the sum, but I knew he calculated on paying my coach
fare to London in this manner, and I would have pained him
by refusing it. Having bid my kind and benevolent friends a
sincere fareweU, I traveUed to the next town, which was
only a few miles off, and there took the stage coach to
Portsmouth. But though I had promised to go home, when
staying with the worthy Quakers, and intended it also I
believe, now when away from their influence, the old
motives of pride and fear were in fuU operation again ; and

AN ORATION. 73
-before I arrived at Portsmputh, I had resolved to enter a
man-of-war. Accordingly, to make a long story short, I entered as a
boy on board the fi-igate Blazer, at that time fltting out for a
three years' cruise on the coast of Africa. I cannot say that
I expected to lead a very easy or pleasant life when I enter
ed Her Majesty's service ; it need hot surprise you therefore
to learn, that for some time after I joined, ha-ring suffered a
good deal from sea-sickness, as , we encountered several stiff
gales before lea-ring Spithead, I felt my bitterest anticipations
of the discomfort of a sea Iffe fully realized.
We lay for a-fortnight at Spithead, during which time we
were occupied chiefly in getting in stores and prorisions. A
few days before sailing, our captain came on board, and
ha-ring mustered the men, he read the commission appoint
ing him to the command of the frigate. When he had done
reading, - a few of the men were commencing to cheer.
" Hold your d  d jaw," he shouted in the voice of a
Stentor. " Now men, mind what I say to you, I will have
no cheering in this ship without my orders. If you should
have the luck to board an enemy's vessel, you may cheer
like devils the moment you set foot oh her decks, but not a
moment before. 'When you are paid off and ashore, too,
after our cruise is over, I have no objection to your cheering
as much as you think proper ; but while on board this ship,
mind I wish you to recollect it>— no cheering if you please,
except at an order from me. As you are all here I -will take
the liberty of making a few remark's which may save some
misunderstanding in future. We sail hi a few days for .the
coast of Africa, I have taken the command, and as all reports
wUl henceforth be forwarded to me, I hope that all irregula
rities of conduct wUl immediately cease. I am exceedingly
4

74 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
averse to corporal punishment, but, howeyer painful to my
feelings, there are some crimes for which I feel that I shall
be compeUed to award it if distinctly proved ; these are
drunkenness, disrespect to officers, and disobedience of orders.
I wiU be happy "^to render you every indulgence in my power
¦whUe you are under my command, and shall use every means
to make you as comfortable as possible ; which I trust you on
your part will do your endeavour to merit. Now, my lads,
you may go."
Such was the address of om-, captain, who did not seem to
be known to many of the crew except by hearsay, which
gave him the name of a " bit of a sharper,'' or, in other
words, a strict discipUnarian. The short speech he had just
delivered, which was freely commented upon, I could plainly
see had lowered him a few pegs in the estimation -of the
men, and especially among the old tars. " 0, d  aU
such canting humbug about painful to his feelings, and
' compelled to award it.' "Why the deuce didn't he tell the
brats ,of middies, when they wanted a man flogged, just to
report him sulky, or worse for liquor, and he would order
him two dozen," grumbled an old veteran, as a few of them
sat discussing the subject on the evening watch. " For my
part," he continued, " I never knew one of your very feeling
gentlemen but what was devilish good at making a poor
fellow's back feel." " The very blessed same remark I made
to Sammy here as we came aft," responded another old tar.
" Wbat's the use of tryng to come to windward of an old
sailor in that way ; why don't he out with it in plain English,
soihewheres in this fashion : — My lads, I have always been
in the habit pf seeing plenty of flogging, which I think a
good custom, and means to keep it up."
' I must confess that I thought these old tars a complete
set of croakers, not being able to perceive anything in the

FLOGGING AT SEA. 75
speech tp call for such Uliberal construction, and severe
animadversion. In fact, for my o-wn part, I had considered
the speech most admhable, both in matter and manner. But
a few months on board fully verified the correctness of their
prognostication, which I found had been the sound deduction
of observation and experience. The' fact of the case is, that
ff a captain is an enemy to flogging he strikes it altogether'
from his catalogue of punishments ; and therefore never
makes allusion to it when addressing his men, any more than
if he was not aware of its existence. There are a number of
captains in the British service, whp have abolished flogging
within theh cwn jurisdiction, as effectually to all intents and
purposes, as if it had been done by act of parliament. And
this also, very much to the improvement of the discipUne of
their respective crews ; and thus practically giving the lie to
those who insist upon tlie necessity for the continuation of
this degTading punishment. Eut our captaih was hone of
these, and the cat was by far too often in the boatswain's
hands, A person who has never been at sea in a man-of-
war, with a captain who has got the idea that flogging is
necessary for the maintenance of discipline, would not believe
the extent to which this punishment is administered in some
vessels. I believe that during the first six months that I 'was
aboard, nearly one half of. our ship's crew had received a
flogging. The nierest trifle, a pair of trousers not perfectly
clean, or having a grease spot on them at a Sunday's muster,
or an article accidentally left out of the clothes bag, when
the vessel was inspected by the officers of the watch, was
quite sufficient to qualify a man of even good character to
receive this disgraceful punishment. The boys were not
stripped and flogged with the cats, except in extraordinary
cases, but when found fault -with by an officer, the boatswain
was instructed to give them a taste of discipline. This con-

76 ADVENTURES OF^ A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
sisted in a piece of three quarter inch rope -with a knot at
the end, called a colt, which the boatswain carries in his
pocket, being smaAly appUed to the back and- shoulders in a
series of successive jerks ; an exhibition highly amusing to
the spectator, but producing the most startling effect upon
the recipients, whom it causes to throw themselves into the
strangest contortions and grotesque antics imaginable. I
sometimes had a taste of this discipUne, and must say that I
did not find it much calculated to increase my UMng for the
sea service. .
There was a bag kept by the boatswain on board the
Blazer, which, was called " the boatswain's save all," by the
sailors. In it were carefully stowed by the boatswain, aU
the clothes found between decks which were left out of their
owners' clothes-bags, when the decks were inspected by the
officers of the watch. Once a week, at a stated hour, the
clothes were turned out of the bag, the officer of the watch
standing by to see who claimed them, as the party so claim
ing was marked down for a dozen lashes for each article ;
which he received at the regular punishment hour next
morning. Very few of these articles were claimed of
^pourse, most of the men preferring to lose the article, even
though compelled to go to the purser and draw a new one,
being in this case a virtual fine equivalent to the value of
the article, which was charged against their wages in the
purser's books. But we had several old salts aboard who
never paid the purser for an article of clothing while on the
cruise. One of these, when he saw an article of . clothing
produced from the bag, which he considered worth taking a
dozen for, deliberately walked up, and picking up the article
— shirt, trousers, or whatever it might be, he would begin to
apostrophise it as that d  d unlucky shirt, or jacket, that
was always getting him into a scrape. The officer of the

A SHORT EPISODE. 77
watch who would know the old feUow to be a regul-ar
customer on these occasions, . smiling at the ruse, would
mark him do-wn for his dozen; and careless of tho jests of
his comrades, the old tar marched off with his trophy. The
unclaimed goods were thrcwn overboard.
There was a young boy of the name of BUUngs, who died
on board the Blazer when we had been about eight months
out, and whp all hands agreed in thinking fell a victim to a
flogging which he received on board. He was no great
favourite in the ship, yet on accpunt of his youth everybody
seemed to pity him ; for strange to say, old fellows whb are
careless of a flogging in their o-wn persons, often show sym
pathy for others whose spirits they see broken down under
the agony of shame > caused by the .degradation of the
punishment. BiUings was a reinarkalSfy clever and hand
some boy, about sixteen or seventeen years of age, rather
delicate in his appearance, and exceedingly proud-spirited
and fiery in his temper. It was supposed that he had run
away from home, ahd that his people were in better circum
stances than common ; but he was very reserved in his
communications, and never made a confidant of any person
uptil near his death ; when he told the doctor, who had
been very kind to him, something which he wished him
to write to his mother who lived at Bristol. The doctor
tried to persuade him that he would live to go home and see
her himself, but nothing would content him,;until the dcctor
had taken down what he wished him to write, together with
his mother's address, in a memorandum book. Shortly
after, the captain came down vrith the doctor to see the boy.
The captain spoke very kindly to. him and asked him if
he would like some vrine. A tear rolled over the wasted
cheek of poor BiUings, as he whispered something into the
ear of the captain, who seeing his Ups move, stooped to

-78 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER lis MiiJi-J.i-'J.
hear him. I was attending on him that moming, as we
took it in turns, but although standing pretty near, I could
not hear a word of what he said to the captain. Whatever
it was, it seemed to -affect him a good deal. He told Bil-'
lings to keep up his spirits, that he would send him some
wine, and ff there was anything on board that he woUld like -
tp eat, if the doctor pei-mitted, he would order the steward
to bring it to him. After that, wine, and everything that
was supposed to be good for him, was sent from the captain's
table ; but it was all of no use, the poor feUow died a few
days afterwards. " He had been flogged about a month pre-
-riously, for calling a midshipman who was beating him with
a rope's end, a bastard ; since which time he had done no
duty, and constantly complained of a pain in his chest. Some
of the old sailors said they had seen cases of the same sort
before, that it frequently happened to boys through flogging,
anti that the boy BUlings died heart-brokeh. A few days'
conSaement on bread and water would have been a far bet
ter punishment for this boy's offence, while the midshipman
who had caused this breach of discipline, by striking him,
(contrary to all good discipUne, and the regulations of the
service,) might have been put under arrest for some time to
show the captain's displeasure at his conduct. Whether the
death of this boy caused the alteration or not I cannot sayj,
but certainly the punishinent of flogging was not of such fre
quent occurrence for some time subsequently.
It is a strange fact that a considerable portion of the
saUors, and more especially that portion who oftenest suffer
the infliction, beUeve that the service would be ruined if the
custom of flogging were abolished in the navy. But even
among the most bigoted tars of the old school, this opinion
is fast wearing out, and the time must soon come when the
cat wiU be consigned to the locker of Da-vy Jones, in place

A CRUISE IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 79
of that of the boatswain ; and only be recollected as one of
the instruments of torture used in the barbarous ages.
After cruising twc weary years on the mpst monotonous
and unhealthy station that ever a man-of-war had the ill-luck
to be sent to, during, which we lost a number of our best
hands from fever, and made prize of two slave vessels, we
received orders to proceed to ^ the Pacific. This was good
news to all, especially to those poor fellows who were sick
when the order arrived, and who soon felt the benefit of a
change of scene and chmate. For my own part I was de
lighted vrith the appearance of those enchanting islands
of which I had often read when a young boy -with so much
rehsh, and Tahiti and a number of others, seemed like scenes
which I recoUected having visited in dreams. We some
times spent eight or ten days in the harbour of one of them
while we refitted, and took .in fresh water, fruits, vegetables,
and other supplies, and during these periods, parties of us
were permitted to go ashore. I had now learned my duty
as a sailor pretty well, and consequently felt a little more
reconcUed to my situation than when I first entered the
Blazer, Indeed, were it not for the perpetual dread of the
petty tyranny, which his officer may exert over him at any
time, for faults real or imaginary, and of which no sailor
/serving in a vessel where flogging is customary, can ever
wholly divest himself, a sailor on board a man-of-war would
not have a bad time. For my own part I had begun to form
such a liking for the service, whife cruising in these delicious
latitudes, that, but for the slight drawback just mentioned, I
believe I would have entered at the expiration of my time,
for another three years' cruise in one of Her Majesty's ships,
in which case you would have been' spared this long yam.
During our cruise here, we sometimes overhauled a
whaler, and on several pf these occasions, a sailor or two, on

so ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
the plea of ilbusage, volunteered to enter our, vessel. These
we always accepted when sufficient cause of complairit could
be shown, the captains of many of those whalers being most
tyrannical scoundrels, and using their men in a rhost brutal
and crUel maimer in many instancesv When such is the
case, the means of redress in the hands of the sailor are
as follows : 'Whenever a man-of-war approaches near enough
to render the signal distinct, a, red or blue shirt is fastened
to some conspicuous part of the rigging of the whaler,-
where it cannot remain a dozen seconds until it is observed
by some one on board of the man-of-war, and is reported to
the officer of the watch. The result of the manoeuvre is,
that in a very short space of time, an officer fi-om the man-
of-war, having been on board of the whaler making inquiry
into the state of affairs there, retums with captain, com-
'plainants, and witnesses, -who are speedily standing on the
quarter-deck of Her Majesty's ship. The captain of the
man-of-war, having listened to the complaint, the defence,
and the witnesses pro and co'/i, gives a prompt decision on
the case, from which there is no appeal. The complaints
usuaUy consist of having- been brutally beaten by the captain
or mate, of insufficiency of food, or food of bad quality.
They, are seldom made without good foundation, and are
mostly easily substantiated, as witnesses against the captain
may volunteer into the man-of-war, as well as the complain
ant. The propf pf ill-usage by striking is frequently easy,
by the men showing the marks of wounds and recent bruises
on their bodies. When bad food is- complained of, the pro-
'visions they have on board are examined, and when insuffi
ciency is the cause,of complaint, the physical condition of the
crew often affords confirmation or disprov'al of it. Summary,
and promptly carried into execution, are the decisions of these
floating courts of justice; being generaUy somewhat to the

SUMMARY JUSTICE. 81
foUowing effect : " Captain, pay these men up to the present
time, and send them aboard vrith- their chests in less than
half an hour." It is no use for the captain to say that he
has not got money to pay them ; if money cannot be found,
goods 'will be seized to the amount required ; a few barrels
of oil, for instance, have frequently been taken, and -sold,
when convenient, to pay the seamen's wages.
I recollect seeing one of these cases'-decided in a manner
that gave great satisfaction to the beholders. A poor, half-
starved looking object, reminding one pf Smallbones, in Mar-
ryatt's novel of Snarle^yow, brought a complaint against his
captain for beating iim, and, as the boy said, making him
afraid of his life, besides keeping him. on shprt allowance of
bad food. His statement was fully borne out by the eri
dence of several of the crew, besides the marks of bruises and
ulcers on various parts of his body. The captain, a big, ill-
looking scoundrel, " whose looks would have been enough to
hang him with ,any honest jury," as an old tar remarked,
seemed quite careless of refutihg the e-ridence, which exhi
bited a case of monstrous injustice and cruelty. Our cap
tain, having heard the case, -ordered the captain of the
whaler to go aboard vrith Smallbones, and see that he found
all his property, and afterwards bring him on board of the
Blazer and pay him his wages in his presence. The captain
and Smallbones having come aboard, and the latter having
received the wages due to him, the captain of the whaler,
thinking the case over, was fpr proceeding immediately to
his own vessel, when he was told, by our captain to stop a
few minutes, as he was not quite done -with him yet. In the
meantime our boatswain had been dispatched for the cats,
and having returned in a few minutes with a bagful of these
implements, amidst the giins and iU-concealed glee of the
crew of the Blazer, who thought it a capital joke to see a

82 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
skipper get his back pickled, the captain of the whaler was
ordered to strip. He appeared to hesitate at-first for a
minute or so, probably thinking it might be a rriistake or a
joke, but oh our captain calling^- out to him, to strip and be
d  -d, or it would bc' worse for him, he saw resistance or
delay would be useless, and began very 'deliberately to take.
off his coat and shirt. He was then tied up to a gun, and
received three dozen on the bare back, which the boatswain
seemed to give con amore, ha-ring selected the thieves' cat
ft)r the purpose, a hea'rier sort than those in common use.
On his going over the ship's side to go to his own vessel, " a
sadder and -wiser man" than when he came aboard, our cap
tain hoped he would not let him catch, him in a simUar
scrape again, or he would give him a double doSe of the
same physic. This was the only case in which I saw the
captain of one of these vessels flogged, and I thought our
captain must have greatly exceeded his powers by the pro
ceeding; but I was told by some of the old hands that it was
not -at all uncommon, and that they had often witnessed
similar occurrences. For my own part I must say that I
highly admired this simple and primitive mode of adminis
tering justice, and could scarce help thinkingthat the good
old plan of the commander of the Faithfiil, Haroun Araschid
of glorious memory, sometimes possessed its advantages. -
Notwithstanding the delights of this enchanting region,
few of our men were sorry, when, our three years ha-ring
nearly expired, we were ordered home ; at least ff one might
judge from the appearance of the crew, who, when the, news
was communicated, seemed all as happy as ff they were
going ashore on a day's leave, or had just been ordered a
double allowance of grog. We soon reached the Cape of
Gpod Hope, but on arriving there, we found that a rebeUion
had broken out among the Dutch boors ; and that this would

A BRUSH WITH THE BOORS. 83
occasion our being sent up the coast a day or two's sail, to
the relief of a smaU body of soldiers who were hemmed in by
a large force of the rebels. These soldiers had been sent to
quell the insurrection, but the force they had taken was too
small : they had been surrounded by overwhelming numbers,
and compelled to construct a temporary breastwork, which
they had gallantly resolved to defend until the last extremity.
On sailing to the bay where we were to land, we saw that
the rebels had made an attempt, to fortify the harbour,
having mounted a few guns on a height near its entrance.
Our captain, either from a desire to spare an effusion of
blood, or because he had received instructions to that effect,
sent a lieutenant ashore in the barge with a white flag, to
try. and persuade them to listen to reason. But clemency
was thrown away upon the stupid boors, who would not
allow the boat to land, and fired several shots at it from the
guns of the fort ; on seeing which the lieutenant returned to
the vessel.
We now ran in until within a mile or so of the fort, and
dropped anchor, receiving meanwhile a brisk fire from their
batteries, but which from -their ignorance of gunnery did us
no damage. Before opening our fire, however, a chance
shot of theirs killed two of our men, and wounded three
more, putting all ideas of lenity to the scoundrels out of the
captain's head, and he immediately gave the command to
commence firing. ' A tremendous fhe was ^ now opened from
our vessel upon the fort, which hever fired another shot in
return, in a few minutes its only occupants being the
wounded, the dying, and the dead. The temporary fortifi
cation they. had been occupying was situated on a promon
tory, between v/hich and the woode4 country behind, there
was a sandy neck or isthmus, which was completely exposed
to our fircy and over which the enemy had to pass in retreat-

84 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
ing to the country. In a few minutes after our firing com
menced, seeing it was not returned, cur captain ordered us
to cease firing ; when we could see a crowd of several thou
sands running in a state of the utmost confusion across the
isthmus. Two or three gwns were directed and fired- among
them, doing dreadful execution, when the captain ordered
the firing to cease, remarking that the poor devils would
have had enough of it. Our marines and sailors armed
with muskets and cutlasses were now landed, when we
found ^ome hundreds of killed and wounded, in and around
the fort, presenting the most shocking spectacle I ever
beheld. Our surgeon and his mates set to work on tbe
wounded, and spent a few hours in zealously trying to repair
those injmies, which . we had as zealously tried to inffict a
short time previous.
Ha-ring ascertained that the party of soldiers -who were
about eight miles in the interior, stUl held out, one of the
most slightly wounded ha-ring had his wound dressed, was
placed on a mule led by one of our men, to conduct us to
the place. On arriving, we found that the siege had been
raised that morning, the iusurgents having left iu great
panic on seeing the ffight of the routed party, who had
scattered in all directions. The soldiers were in a pitiable
condition, having been in a state of starvation for the last
two or three days. They had been closely besieged eight
days, and their position frequently assaulted, but they had
always repulsed* the" enemy -with great loss. In fact they
had killed so many of the assailants, that they had resolved
rather to die of starvation than surrender, as they felt certain
of being killed by the enemy in revenge for the loss caused
by their obstinate resistance. Many of them were so weak
that we had to take spell about of carrying them in litters,
which we made of the branches of trees ; and it took us all that

CHANGES. 85
day and part of the next to bring them aboard. After
having destroyed and disrhounted the guns at the fort, we
sailed for Cape Town, and having put the soldiers ashore
there, we proceeded on our homeward voyage. In less than
two months after this we were paid off at Portsmouth, when
I received fifty sovereigns as my three years' pay and share
of prize money. I bought a decent suit of clothes ahd pro
ceeded to London. On arriving there, I learned that my
father was dead, my sister had married and gone with her
husband to America, and my step-mother and her family
had gone into the country to live -with- some of her friends.
I came out to New York, where I found employment easily
enough at my trade, and where, if I had not been a bit of a
fool, I should still be, I believe. Such are a few of the events
in the experience of my comrade. Bill Nutt.

CHAPTER vn.
Land in 'sight — Pensacol^ Bay — Fort Pickens — Rough lodgings-
Smuggling "Whiskey — A Carouse.
The captain of the Albatross had brought his -wife along
with him ; he was an excellent sailor, all the men said, but
had the prevalent fatdt of, sea captains, he was a little fiery
in his temper ; which the presence of his wife it is likely
would help to moderate. Be that, however, as it may, it is
certain that her excellent and remarkable sailor-like qualifi
cations made her the admiratitm of all on board, as, so far
from being afraid, she seemed rather to ehjoy the excitement
caused by the appearance of a squall, which at .that
season of the > year in these latitudes, are often anythuig
the reverse of safe or pleasant. On a stormy and disagreea
ble night when the captain considered it to be his duty to
be upon deck, there was she to be seen along -with him ; either
sitting alongside of her husband in front ofthe cabin beside
the wheel, or pacing backwards and forwards on the quarter
deck, now and again taking a -knowing squint at the rigging
or the horizon, and anon as abstracted seemingly, as ff rumi
nating on some deep problem in na-rigation. The sailors
declared that she could navigate a vessel as well as any
captain that ever stept in shoe leather. There might be
some exaggeration in that statement, however ; and perhaps
they magnified her powers of managing the ship, fi-om some
times witnessing the apparent ease with which she occasion
ally succeeded in managing the captain when carried away

THB FLORIDA COAST. 87
by those hurricanes of passion vvhich now -and then seized
him. Still if she ' had studied navigation I see nothing to
hinder her from being an expert navigator,' as she certainly
would have shown np lack of intrepidity.
After a prosperous voyage of sixteen days, the low sandy
coast of Florida became -distinctly -visible. The fii-st appear
ance of land on approaching Pensacola is very singular.
Long bright lines of silvery white, crowned with a mass of,
dark green vegetation, stretched far athwart the blue'riorizdh,
suggesting the idea of a strong surf everywhere roUing in
upon the shore. On a near approach we discover that which
we thought surf is the beach, the sand of which here is as
pure and white as drifted snow, which it exactly resembles.
at a distance. The bright , and varied hues of the water,
from dark blue or green to the lighter shades of these
colours, which the sea presents as we close on the land, the
dazzling white ofthe sandy shore, and the heavy masses ofthe
dark green pines, strongly reUeved against the cle'ar blue sky,
impart a unique, and at the same time -a highly picturesque
appearance to the bay of Pensacola.
Fort Pickens, where. we were to land two companies, to
one of which I belonged, is built on the point of a low sandy
tongue of land, and together with Barrancas and Munroe,
the two forts opposite,^ where our other two companies were
to be stationed, "completely commands the entrance of the
bay. As the water was deep enpugh to admit of vessels
coming close to the wharf at Fort Pickens, the Albatross
was hauled close up and firmly moored. It was near sun
set when we arrived at the fort, and only a few of the old
soldiers who expected to meet friends and comrades in the
company stationed there, went ashore, and also the whole of
the officers, who of course preferred (the lupky dogs) a gopd
dinner, and a jovial night ashore, to being cooped up in a

88 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
ship. Early next morning we disembarked, and after placing
our arms, equipments, and personal effects in our quarters,
which were only distant a fe-w hundred yards fi-om the
wharf, we were employed for the remainder of the day in
bringing the regimental property ashore.
The numerous uncomfortable cu-cumstances from which -
soldiers usually suffer during a removal, and mpre especially
in the United States ser-rice, -where the idea of. having quar
ters (-comfortably arranged for the soldier's reception, on his
arrivar at a new station, is seldom thought of,, is the cause
of a great deal of the drunkenness that commonly prevails
upon these occasions. The first object of most soldiers upon
entering a new garrison is to discover where liquor can be
procured ; neither is this, in spite of all penalties enforced
and precautions taken, ever a matter of difficult accomplish
ment ; for according to the amount of the prohibition and
restriction, so: is the amount of bounty on the smuggling of
the article. At Fort Pickens, for instance, when we landed,
whiskey was sold at a <iollar a bottle, an advance Pf nine
hundred per cent, uppn -what it cost at Barrancas on the
other side of the bay. Having once discovered a sly grog
shop, the inteUigence soon spreads, and in avery short period
intoxication in every progressive stage, and producing every
variety of effect, is the order of the day, and sobriety, only
the remarkable exception. In these saturnalia of course a
few fights occasionally take place, and individuals of pugna
cious propensities usually find " ample room and verge
enough " for theh exercise, an excellent field here offering
for the display of what is fancifully termed the science.
On the present occasion, the appearance of our quartei-s
at Fort Pickens was just the sort of thing to justify or en
courage this predisposition to drown care, and the idea of the
disagreeable and uncomfortable, in a bumper. They con-

BAD QUARTERS. 89
sisted of a large bomb-proof casemate, exceedingly dirty
having been occupied up to the day of our arrival by a party
of negroes, who were employed in making repairs on the
fort and garrison. There was not a particle of furniture of
any description in this room ; the fioor, whioh was composed
of bricks, was covered with mud ahd wood ashes, - as the
negroes had kept a &-e burning on the floor to keep the mos
quitoes away ; notwithstanding this, they were stUl plentiful
here, though ¦ the cold weather was \ setting' in. The ashes
had been aUowed to accumulate on the floor, which was also
additionaUy garnished and ornamented with skins of yams,
fish bones, dried peppers, and other tropical litter of a lazy
negro's hut, giving it much the appearance of a tolerably
dry dunghill. Nutt and I swept a corner of this miserable
den, and ha-ring, on a search round the garrison, procui-ed a
few boards, on these we spread our blankets, and thus pre
pared our bed for the night ; -the absence of a mattress was
not of great importance, as we had. been accustomed, to dis
pense with that needless luxury while on board ship. In the
American, service by the bye, soldiers always Ue on the boards
when bn board ship ; in the British service, -where the health
and comfort of a soldier are objects of study and solicitude,
a different custom , prevails ; a clean blanket and mattress
being issued to the soldier on his going on board, and taken
into store whenie leaves the vessel. However, my comrade
Bill Nutt and I congratulated ourselves on our good fortune
in ha-ring procured the boards to lie upon, as the "majority
seemed to have no alternative but to sit, stand, or Ue down
on the brick floor, cold, damp, and dirty as it was, and at the
imminent risk of catching a cold, or a touch of rheumatism.
Under these circumstances, it need excite no extravagant
surprise, that whiskey, when it . could be procured, was
speedily had recourse to, as a cm-e for all those discomforts

90 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
and annoyances from which there seemed no other mode of
escape. Such, at aU events, was the practice of most of our
,men on this evening; and such seemed to be the course de
cided on by a party of honest feUows belonging to the com
pany, who, on their way out, stopped to ask Nutt and me to
go along ^th them. As neither of us were teetotallers, and
as we lelt rather fatigued with our day's work, carrying
boxe'j up from the wharf, we could pffer np reasonable objec
tion to the proposal : so accepting the in-ritation, we were
soon on our way to the place where the whiskey was sold.
This ilUcit traffic was carried. on by the blacks, at the time
employed in the repairs of the fort. These blacks were
slaves, and hired out by their o-wners to government ; some
of them had been taught the trade of bricklaying, and their
owners received upwards of twenty dollars a month for their
labor, after deducting the cost of the slave's living. One of
these slaves could not have been purchased under a thou
sand dollars ; they were young, healthy, and intelligent-look
ing .negroes, speaking remarkably good English with great
' fluency, better than, most of the soldiers in the fort. They had
an abundant supply of the corn whiskey used in the States,
a coarse liquor, unpleasant in taste, and intoxicating in the
proportion of about two bottles to one of the low priced
Irish or Scotch whiskey. This whiskey is sold in New York,
New Orleans, and mpst large cities of the Union at twenty
cents a gallon, and could.be obtained on the opposite side
of the bay, at Barrancas, where these negroes bought it, at
fifty cCnts a gallon. They retailed it at a dollar a bPttle, or
five dollars a, gallon, clearing the very moderate profit of
nine hundred per cent, on their business, but they in
curred the risk of a severe flogging if detected selling hquor
to soldiers. One of our party ha-ring gone up to the window
of one of the huts iu which these black fellows lived, speed-

A FREE AND BAST, 91
ily returned -with four bottles of whiskey. With these,
having adjourned to a convenient distance to permit our
indulging in free discourse, -without any risk of being dis
turbed, we sat down on the sand, and passing the bottle
round, we drank in succession without the useless accoin-
paniment of glasses.

CHAPTER vm.
The Surprise — ^Doctor Bro'wn — ^Fishing at Pensacola — Bathers and
Sharks.
It was a beautiful calm evening,- and the stars were shining
with the lustrous' brilliancy pecuUar to tropical skies, the
atmosphere was deliciously warm, without feeling in the least
oppressive, the breeze being just enough to moderate the
heat, and keep the mosquitoes at their proper distance. Our
party was comfortably reclining on a sandbank facing the
bay, whose murmuring vvaves rippled vrithin twenty or thirty
yards of, our resting-place ; all sjsemed to enjoy the scene,
and all agreed in declaring the whiskey, which circulated
with astonishing rapidity, to' be avery good article. We
were soon, thanks to the whiskey, in a phUosophic and good-
humoured disposition, and quite ready to laugh at all the
petty miseries and annoyances of human life, as a very good
sort of joke, and one not, in the sUghtest degree interfering
with our present delightful entertainment. One of the party,
named Davis, being of a speculative turn, favoured Us
with a short dissertation on the excessive absurdity of the
common opinion, that there ever could be such a quali tj in
existence as positive good or evil, these terms being converti
ble or comparative. This position he proceeded tcillustrate
in a manner which. I have no doubt would have beenbighly
satisfactory and ingenious, when he was requested to " cut it
short," by Bob Madden, a man of a practical turn, who wished
to favour the company by "singing the " Cruiskeen Lawn."

UNWELCOME- VISITORS, 93
This ha-ring been sung accordingly, and duly chorussed,
drinking, smoking, singing, joking, and laughing, passed the ,
time until near tattoo, by which time we had got pretty deep
into the third bottle, and- began to think of retiring^ Unfor
tunately, however, for the harmonious ending of what had
been so well begun, the whiskey now began to show some
of its usual effects, by producing a -strong inclination for
exhibiting, and
" Each, for madness ruled the hour,
"Would prove his o'wn expressive power."
Da-ris lectured with much apparent earnestness of manner and
animation, on what I believe he called " The Political Pplic^y
of the Peruvians^ to several of the. party, who were strain
ing their energies in a vain attempt to follow the tropes and
figures of his rhetoric. Bob Madden, who hated long speeches,
as he hated an unfiUed can, bawled at the highest pitch of
his voice, "Cease, rude Boreas, blustering railer," which
Davis, construing into a designed intention of insult and
interruption, became perfectly savage, and declared his inten
tion of taking it out of Bob, by pitching into him. At this
stage of the proceedings, the officer of the day, who had
heard the noise our party had been making for some time
previous, dispatched a corporal and a- file of the guard to
convey us prisoners to the guard-house. Nutt, who was
genera,lly upon the alert, and.who had been looking for some
such interruption, gave us the hint just in time, and we started
to our feet and ran, with the guard in chase. But on these
occasions the guard is seldom anxious to make prisoners,
and only that one of the party, named Dymond, happened to
fall and get stunned, so that he could not run, there would
have been no prisoners made. As it was, he was taken to
the guard-house.

94 adventures. OF A SOLDIER IN' MEXICO.
Unluckily for the prisoner, the officer of the day had
foUowed the party of the guard himseff, and pbserving the
bottles, which, in our hurried retreat, we had left on the sand-
hiU, he picked them up, and found one of them fuU and
another containing a portion of whiskey. The empty bottles,
-by " the -scent of the whiskey that hung Tound them stiU,"
gave sufficient indication that they had been recently emptied
of similar contents, and .-were the cause of the present fracas.
The officer ordered the corporal of the guard to secure these
bacchanalian trophies, and give them in charge to the ser
geant, and next morning he had them sent for and produced
before the commanding officer, as a proof of the extent to
which this illicit_ traffic in whiskey was carried on in the
garrison. Dymond was then sent for, and questioned as to
where he got the liquor, and the parties who were along with
him. But neither threats nor promises could prevail on him
to betray either the one or the other, and he was kept in
confinement for nearly a month, during which time he was
not forgotten by his comrades, but being' considered a martyr
to an honourable principle, was furnished with everything that
was supposed likely to soften the rigour of confinement. As
for the remainder of our convivial party, we answered our
names at tattoo on going home that evening, after which we
went to sleep, -and were never questioned about the matter.
Such is a specimen of pur proceedings on the first night
after landing at Fort Pickens, and such is the mo'de in which
drinking is commonly practised in that service, A degradi-
ing custom, producing habits of beastly intoxication, and
having its origin in the erroneous manner in which soldiers
are treated in that service, where a systematic course of pro
cedure, calculated to degrade a soldier, and annihilate his
self-respect, seems to be in constant operation. If in place of
prohibiting the soldier from ever going into a tavern, or tasting

PHYSICAL DISCOMFORTS, 95
spirits, under a regard, forsooth, for his morals, and a pretence
of keeping him sober, they were to make him a little more
comfortable in his quarters, they would probably succeed a
little better in regulating the soldier's conduct. And if, in
addition, they were to establish, as in the British service, a
tavern in every garrison, where riotous conduct or drunken
ness would not be permitted, but where the soldier could sit
down and enjoy himself in a moderate and rational manner,
I could safely venture to predict, that the practice, now pre
valent, of drinking out of bottles until beastly intoxication
ensues, would cease to -exist. '
On the second moi-ning after our arrival we had our quar
ters thoroughly cleaned, and were supplied with bedsteads,
but we soon discovered that no cleaning would render the
quarters comfortable. They were dark, damp, and badly
ventilated, the walls in rainy weather dripping -svith wet, and
in the stiU, close evenings, they swai-med with mosquitoes.
A good dea,l of sickness was complained of by the men,
though the winter had set .in, which in the south is the
healthy period of the year, and the approach pf -Which is
welcomed as cordially by the whites, as the summer is'by the
inhabitants of cold or temperate climates. This was com
monly attributed to the badness of our quarters, and I have
no doubt that was a principal cause ; still the change of cli
mate and water, and the careless and intemperate habits of a
large proportion of the men, with the hardships and priva
tions of the voyage, might sufficiently account for much of the
disease prevalent, which consisted of fever and ague, colds,
rheumatism, and diarrhoea. Our surgeon, who came over
fi-om Barrancas every momirig to ¦risit thfe sick, was' rather
an original and eccentric individual in his manner. When a
patient described his malady and its symptoms, he invaria
bly assured him that he need bS under no apprehension or

96 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
alarm about it, as it was a mere trifle, and easUy subdued by
refusing to yield to it. He had the same complaint himself,
he said, but luckily his duty compelled him to move about,
so that he could not give way to disease, for want of time.
As he told every description of patient the identical same
story, he became at last quite an object of curiosity ; for
though of thin and spare habit, this -rictim, according to his
cwn account, of the most complicated variety of diseases that
ever afflicted one poor individual at a time, was yet cheerful,
active, and vigorous. -"While giving his patients medicine, it
was his custom to inculcate strongly the advantages of absti
nence and exercise, in the prevention and cure of disease ; .he
generally quoted his own case as an example in point, some
times remarking that he would have been dead long ago, ff
he had not made a resolution not to die as long as he could
help it. Our men gave him the sobriquet of Doctor Bro'wn,
from the resemblance which his advices bore, to those given
by Doctor Brown to his apprentice, in the song, the foUowing
distich of which was pften sung in his hearing as he passed
through the barrack square, though if he perceived, he never
took any notice of the allusion : —
" He often says, with much elocution,
Hard work, low diet, and a good resolution,
Are the only things for the constitution. Oh! Doctor Brown."
' Itods, -w'ho was fond of propounding theories on the perplex
ing ahd inexplicable, said he considered that the great variety
of diseases to which the doctor was subject was .probably
rather in his favour, as their antagonistic properties, by neu
tralising and counteracting each other's bad effects, might
preserve a beneficial balance in the system. To which lucid
explanation Bob Madden responded, by asking Davis ff he

FISH AND FISHING. 97
saw anything particularly green about him, a remark which
Davis of course consideredr beneath reply.
Shortly after our arrival at Fort Pickens, at the sugges
tion of our officers, we subscribed a dollar apiece for the
purchase of a seine, by means of which we procured an abun
dant supply of fish, as the bay literally swarmed with them.
We usually hauled the seine tvrice or thrice a week, pro
curing with ease a barrel or two of excellent fish, weighing
from half a pound to three or four pounds each ; any of
smaller size we threw into the sea again. The fish we prin
cipally caught were mullet, which are very delicious fish ;
for four or five months during the -winter, when they are in
season, immense shoals of them frequent the coast of Florida ;
they feed on mofiusoa and are never caught with bait, nei
ther are they ever found on the northem coast of America,
Sheepshead, another very excellent fish whioh we commonly
caught, has its name from the appearance of its mouth and
teeth, which have a striking resemblance to those of a sheep.
These last, with perch, cat-fish, trout, and various others,
might easily be caught by fishing at the wharf -with a line, but
as the seine furnished a superabundant supply for the use of
the garrison, fishing with the line was not much practised.'
There was one species of fish in the bay of Pensacola, how
ever, which we could have very gladly dispensed vrith ; - these
were sharks, which were both numerous, and of most incre
dible size and voracity. A short time before the arrival of
our regiment a sailor, who had fallen overboard from the
rigging of a man-of-war lying at the Navy Yard, was almost
instantly devoured by these ravenous monsters, in the sight of
his horror-stricken shipmates, who could render him no
assistance, so sudden was the catastrophe. The crew of the
man-of-war, while they remained there, had waged an inces
sant war with the sharks, in revenge for the loss of their
5

98 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
comrade ; and had killed a great many, but without having
produced any apparent decrease in then- numbers. The offal
which is throvm overboard by-the men-of-war, one or two of
whpm are constantly lying off the Navy Yard, is probably
the cause of the presence of so many of these unwelcome
visitors. One of our officers, desiring to have a specimen cf
these sharks, employed the ordnance sergeant to catch one.
Accordingly a stout shark's line was furnished for the occa
sion, consisting of fifty or sixty fathoms of what would be
considered tolerably thick rope for a horse halter. A shark's
hook, consisting of three or four branching out of a single stalk,
and about the size of butchers' hooks, attached to a stout iron
chain, and baited with a four pound piece of pork, the whole
being well fastened to the line, which yras made fast to a
mooring post on the wharf, was thro-wn into the sea opposite
the wharf. The line was left in charge of the sentry on the
wharf, who had orders to send up word to the garrison as
soon as he perceived that a shark had taken the bait. But
the sentry had neglected the order, and seeing the line tight
he began to haul in upon it with aU his might. The shark,
taken by surprise at the novelty of his situation, yielded a
little at first, and then suddenly making a desperate rush, ho
dragged the sentry into the water, and he very narrowly
escaped drowning, but was luckily saved by holding on to
the line till some of the men who were near came to his
assistance. A sufficient number of men having speedily
arrived, the shark was hauled on the beach alongside the
wharf, and dispatched -with bayonets and cutlasses ; when
measured it was found to be eleven feet long. Its fiightfuUy
capacious jaws, full of jagged, saw-Uke teeth, were taken out
of the head and preserved by the ordnance sergeant ; when
fully extended the jaws would easily admit a stout man's
shoulders to pass through them. I had frequently seen them

FOOL-HARDINESS. 99
caught when at sea, five or six feet in length, but never any
thing to compare -with this monster of the deep.
One would imagine that with a knowledge of the existence
of such creatures in the bay, swimming in deep water would
have been totally out of the question at Pensacola, but there
are strange reckless beings everywhere fond of excitement,
and of the credit of doing something of which everybody else
would be afraid. One morning two or three of the men
being on the wharf, and the conversation happening to turn
on the shark 'which had been caught a few days preriously,
and the danger any person would incur by s-wimming there ;
one of them offered for a trifling wager to jump in from the
wharf, and swim in deep water for a period of five minutes.
The wager was accepted, and the fool-hardy hero was strip
ping to jump in, when the sentry stationed on the wharf
interfered, and ordered him to put on his clothes. This he
refused to do, and the sentry very properly made him a
prisoner, and sending for the corporal of the guard, he was
taken to the guard-house. The commanding officer, on
learning the circumstance, complimented the sentry on his
conduct; and issued an order prohibiting soldiers from
bathing in deep water.

CHAPTER IS.
Tampa Bay — Indian Paradise — Beautiful Squaws — Forest life — ^The
Hummocks — Snakes — Rumours of "War — Lost in the "Wood.
The surface of the ground, both vrithin the garrison, and
everywhere in the vicinity of Fort Pickens, is entirely com
posed of fine sand, which is so white and dazzling, especially
when the sun is shining, as to have a most unpleasant and
injurious effect upon the eyes. The situation is also veiy
unhealthy during the summer, the fataUy destructive yellow
fever being frequently prevalent during the hot season. It
was therefore with a great deal of satisfaction that the com
pany to which I belonged, after ha-ving been about a month
at Fort Pickens, received the order to proceed to Tampa
Ray, We embarked in a brig called the IsabeUa on the
2nd of November, and bidding adieu to those of our com
rades whom we were leaving behind at Fort Pickens, after a
pleasant voyage of two days we anchored about seven or
eight miles from the -riUage and garrison in Tampa Bay,
that being as near as vessels above the size of a light schoo
ner can approach, on account of the extreme shoalness of the
bay. It was evening when we arrived, and early next morning
a small government sloop called the " Star," arrived fi-om
the garrison for the purppse pf taking us ashore. About
one-half of us contrived to stow ourselves into it, along with
our muskets and knapsacks, though rather crowded. She
was to go back for the remainder after we were landed.

TAMPA BAY. 101
After tacking about in the bay until near evening, the wind
being nearly ahead, we finally succeeded in reaching the
wharf The appearance of the land, when viewed from the
deck of a vessel in the bay, is like most of the views along
the coast of Florida, of a rather tame and circumscribed
character ; as, owing to the perfectly dead level of the
country, a green belt of vegetation covering a sandy beach
is all that the eye can discover. On a nearer approach,
however, as its distinctive features become more easUy
defined^ they arrange themselyes into something more, nearly
akin to the beautiful and the j^icturesque.
Tampa Bay is a neat little village of wooden houses,
situated at the mouth of the river Hillsboro, and close to the
garrison. There is a small traffic carried on between it and
the few scattered settlers of the neighbourhood, who bring in
their surplus produce and exchange it here for goods or
money. Its situation is reckoned to be one of the most
healthy and salubrious in Florida ; but as the land in the
-ricinity is mostly of a poor quality, and as the bay is diffi
cult of approach for shipping, it does not seem destined to
rise very rapidly in importance. The barracks,, which may
almost be said to be part of the village, are a long range of
log buildings erected by the troops during the Florida
Indian war in 1837. They have a covered gallery aU round,
and are well adapted to the climate of Florida, being raised
about three feet from the gi-ound, high in the roof and well
ventilated. They are also built on the highest part of the
garrison, about fifteen feet above the level of the sea, au
unusuaUy great elevation on the coast of Florida.
We were all delighted, on landing, with the appearance of
the garrison, its neat white-washed buildings, and its grassy
parade ; while round the neat cottages in which the officers
and their families Uved, grew rows of orange and lirae trees

102 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
thickly covered -with their golden fruit, then nearly ripe. In
front of the barracks there stood a noble grove of live
oak trees, which afforded a dehcious shade from the scorch
ing heat of the sun, and gave an air of quiet, and an
expression of sylvan beauty to the scene. The long grey
beard and wierdlike Spanish moss, that droops in huge
masses from the rough brawny arms of these giants of the
primeval forest, gives them a venerable and druidical appear
ance which is exceedingly picturesque. This moss, which
takes root in the bark, grows on many of the trees in
Florida, though I never saw any on the pine. But above all
it seems to love the liv« oak, to whose strong arm it clings
vrith devoted affection ; depending in long flexile drapes that
swing most gracefully in the breeze. The proper name
of this plant is tillandsea ; it is of a grey colour, and not
unlike long rough beards of a gigantic size in appearance.
It has a very small yellow blossom, and pod containing
seed, and is very valuable when properly cured, being
commonly appUed to all those purposes for which curled
hair is used, such as stuflBng mattresses, sofas, and chairs.
To prepare it for this purpose it is gathered from the trees
with long hooks, and afterwards put into water for a few
days to rot the outer part, and then dried. The substance
obtained by this process is a fine black fibre resembling
horse hair. A mattress stuffed -with this substance may
serve for a year if not wetted; it then becomes dirty,
and requires that the moss should be taken out and well
beaten ; by which means it becomes more elastic than ever.
I had a mattress fiUed with it thus, prepared, when I was
at Tampa Bay, and I thought it one of the most comfort
able beds I ever slept on.
On arriving at Tampa Bay we found another company of
our regiment stationed there, two companies being considered

THE EVERGLADES. 103
requisite for the protection of the inhabitants against any
sudden outbreak of the Indians. These, to the amount of
several hundred warriprs, besides squaws and children, stiU
occupy a large tract cf Florida called the Everglades ; where
they live in the same state of rude savage life to which they
were accustomed ere the first of the pale feces left a foot
print on their sandy shores. They have game in abundance,
herds of deer roam through the plains and glades, and crop
their luxuriant herbage ; numerous fiocks of -wild turkeys
roost in the hummocks at night, and feed in the openings
and pine barrens by day ; and in the creeks and bays of the
sea coast, or in the large fresh water lakes of the interior,
incredible quantities of delicious fish are easily caught.
Round their viUages, in the selection of a site for which
they display excellent taste and judgment, they usuaUy cul
tivate a small portion of the soil in raising maize, or
edible roots ; and the little labour which this requires is per
formed by the women and children. In this delicious
climate, where there is perpetual verdure, and where the
existence of cold or vrinter is scarcely kno-wn or felt, the mode
of U-ring of these savages seems not so very disagreeable,
and -with their ideas of comfort they must find Florida
a complete Indian paradise. It is not much to be wondered
at, therefore, to find them so reluctant to leave for a
new home among the tribes of the Indian Territory. Sooner
than submit to this, about fifteen years ago they waged
an unequal war -with the United States ; which lasted several
years, and cost America nearly as much, it is said, as the
late war in Mexico. At the present time there are not in
Florida more than a fourth, it is supposed, of the number
who were there at the commencement of the war ; as a
great many of them at various times accepted the terms
offered by the government of the United States, and

104 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
were transported to a tract of land caUed the Indian Terri
tory, lying between Arkansas and the Rocky Mountainsi
Those who refused to leave, and who were finally permitted
to remain in a portion of Florida defined by certain bounda
ries, have been variously estimated at from three to five
hundred warriors. But as they have almost no intercourse
-with the inhabitants, white men not being suffered to
approach their -riUagcs, it is very difficult to form anything
like a con-ect estimate of their numbers. The govemment
agent, stationed at Fort Charlotte, a small settlement near
their boundary Une, for the purpose of trading with them,
and who has been desired by the government to endeavour
without exciting their suspicions to ascertain their numbers,
reckons them at five hundred, exclusive of women and
children. Those who remain are part of the tribe or nation
of Seminoles ; they were as tall on an average as the men of
our regiment, and though not near so athletic or muscular,
generally more gi-aceful in personal appearance. They have
more yellow than copper in their complexion, and have the
high prominent cheek bones, and that quick, furtive, and
suspicious glance of the Indian race, which seems watching
evei-y moment to make a sudden spring in the event of any
appearance of treachery. Some of their young squaws have
a very pleasing expression of countenance, and I have seen
one or two of these who I beUeve would be pronounced
beautiful if compared with the prouder belles of European
cities. The men, or warriors, walk -with a most dignffied
and majestic carriage, and an air of stoic composure highly
imposing. They wear moccasins made of deer-skin, and of
their own manufacture ; and go bare-legged in a short-sleeved
sort of tunic, confined at the waist and falling down nearlv
to the knees in the manner of a Highlander's -kilt,r - to
whose ancient costume that of the Florida Indians "ef^Sie

•INDIAN VISITORS, 105
present day bears a considerable resemblance, especially
when seen at a short distance. Some of them ornament
theh dress with beads and shells, which they sometimes wear
in their hair also, and both men and women are fond of
wearing large silver rings in their ears and through their
nostrils. Parties of twenty or thirty of these strange-looking visitors
fi-equently came into the -riUage of Tampa Bay while we lay
there. They were always accompanied by a sub-chief, a sort of
lieutenant, who had charge of the party, and their object was
to exchange deer-skins for powder and other necessary arti
cles. They frequently brought a few turkeys or a few pieces of
venison, part of the game they had shot as they came along ;
these they sold cheap enough, a turkey fetching a quarter,
-and a piece of venison of fifteen or twenty pounds weight,
haff a dollar. They always visited the barracks when they
came to the viUage, walking through the rooms and shaking
hands with the soldiers in a perfectly friendly manner. None
of them, however, understood English, and we were all equally
ignorant of the Seminole, so that our discourse was necessarily
limited to the language of pantomime, at which they seemed '
a vast deal more apt than our men. They showed us marks
of gunshot wounds they had received in the Florida war on
various parts of their bodies, pointing to our muskets at the
same time and shaking their heads ; and they seemed highly
delighted when one or two of om- soldiers, who had been in
the Florida war, showed them similar marks, making signs
that they had received them from the Indians. They laughed
and talked to one another with great .animation and glee at
this circumstance. But the great attraction for them was two
six-pounder pieces, which stood in front of the quarters ; they
always approached these with looks of the greatest curiosity,
and apparent awe, cautiously patting them as if to propitiate
5*

106 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER "iN MEXICO.
them. They have the most exaggerated ideas of the destruc
tive effects of artillery, ofwhich they stand in horrible dread ;
and some of our men who were in the Florida war asserted
that a chief cause of so many Indians ha-ring surrendered
towards the close of the war, was owing to the Americans
having procured two or three light field-pieces, though, owing
to the swampy nature of the country, they could not have
used them. As they always behaved quietly in the garrison,
they were never hindered from strolling round any part of it,
strict orders being given to the soldiers not to molest them.
They used no more ceremony with the officers than vrith
the men, frequently walking up to them on the parade, or
into their quarters, and offering to shake hands with them
¦with the most perfect nonchalance.
On paying one of these visits to the village it was custo
mary for them to have a bout of drinking and dancing ; a
sort of Indian baU, which they held in a yard behind a house
in the viUage appropriated exclusively to their use. The
entertainments of the evening, on these occasions, usuaUy
consisted in smoking and drinking whiskey untU pretty late,
a few of them dancing at intervals in the most ungraceful and
even ludicrous attitudes imaginable. They wound up the
evening generaUy with a war dance, in which aU who were
not too drunk joined. This dance commences slow at fii-st
to a low monotonous chaunt, and increases in rapidity of
time and moveraent until, like the witches' dance in Tam o'
Shanter, " the mirth and fun grow fast and furious," and they
yeU and whoop like a set of demons or incamate fiends. On
these occasions, they sometimes quarrelled among themselves,
and ended the night with a general squabble ; yet as care
was always taken, on their arrival, to have their arm taken
from them and locked up, until they were ready to return
home, there was no danger qf any serioils accident occurring.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF FLORIDA. 107
Florida received its name from Juan Ponce de Leon, from
his having discovered it on Palm Sunday (in Spanish Pasqua
Florida), in 1512 ; and not, as many of its inhabitants believe,
on account of the beauty of the vrild flowers and the
shrubs which it produces, and of which it certainly exhibits
a splendid profusion. It is natural, however, to suppose, that
the charm of the scenei-y, and especially the singular beauty
and luxuriance of many of the strange shrubs and trees, which
would seem so wonderful to the Spaniards on their first land
ing, may have confirmed the adoption of the idea originally
suggested by its striking appropriateness. A gi-eat portion
of the peninsula of Florida is sandy, and not much adapted
to cultivation ; but there are rich tracts here and there com
posed of hummock and swamp, which may yet, when cleared
and drained, yield a rich reward to the cultivator. There are
some pretty extensive cotton plantations on some parts of it,
and sugar-cane, tobacco, rice, Indian corn, and every other
variety of tropical produce or fruits, may be successfully cul
tivated where the soU is good. Still, as long as the Indians
remain in its borders, its resources -wiU - never have a fair
chance of development, as the distant settler can have no
security for life or property while they are in the -ricinity.
During the winter the weather in Florida is deUghtful, the
ground being quite dry and the atmosphere clear, and of that
exquisite medium with regard to heat, neither top hot nor too
cold, which one feels to give a bracing and invigorating tone
to the constitution, and a pleasant buoyancy to the spirits.
In summer the ground is wet and swampy, a large part of
the surface resembling a complete marsh, owing to the fre
quent and heavy rains which faU during that season, the level
nature of the surface, and bad natural drainage. It was pur
chased from Spain by the United States in 1821, and was
con.stituted a state in 1845.

108 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
Our duties were vei-y light while we lay at Tampa Bay ;
we mounted guard about once every fourth day on an ave
rage, and when off guard we had. two parades each day, suc
ceeded by an hour's drUl'. On the morning after that on
which we came off guard we had to work a few hours in
policing the garrison, and in cutting the usual allowance of
wood for general consumption ; the rest of our time, except
that required for cleaning our clothes, arms, and accoutre
ments, was at our own disposal. Our commanding officer,
while we lay at this post, adopted an excellent method for
teaching young soldiers how to use their muskets with effect.
As we always loaded with ball cartridge when we mounted
guard, in place of drawing the cartridge when we were relieved
on the succeeding morning, we were marched down in front
of a target, which stood with its back to the sea ; and being
placed at a distance cf about a hundred and twenty yards
from it, each of the guard discharged his musket at it in suc-
' cession. The sergeant of the guard accurately marked each
shot, and he whose ball went nearest the centre of the target
was excused fi-om mounting guard the next time it came to
his turn. This produced a great deal of emulation amongst
all hands, and the result was, that most of them soon became
excellent shots.
Ha-ring so much spare time on hand, our men frequently
took long rambles into the woods, especiaUy during the fine
di-y weather ; and on these occasions, for some time after our
arrival in Tampa Bay, there was a danger of getting so
utterly lost in the woods, as not to be able to find the way
home ; thus incurring a serious risk. of dying of starvation.
An occurrence of this description happened shortly after our
arrival, showing the necessity of caution in making these
excursions, at least untU we were a littie better acquainted
with the surrounding country. A young man belonging to

LOST IN THE WOODS. 109
our company had gone out shooting one day, by himself, and
in his eagerness for the sport he had gone a considerable
distance away from the path, without having paid sufficient
attention to the direction in which it lay, to be able to find
it again. "When he began to think of returmng, he found
himself completely bewildered by the resemblance which one
part of the flat, monotonous pine forest bore to another, and
wandered about until evening, trying to find the footpath,
but without success. As he had not returned next morning,
his absence caused much speculation, and our lieutenant,
thinking it probable that he might be starved in the woods
if not soon discovered and assisted, sent a party of twelve
men out to search for him. They were to go in parties of
two or three, and to fire their muskets occasionally, at some
distance from the road, taking care not to lose their way back
to it themselves. After a few hours' search, he was disco
vered about six miles from the garrison, and within a mile
from the footpath. He was very nearly exhausted when
found by the party, and but for the measures taken by the
lieutenant, it is probable that he would soon have died of
sheer hunger and fatigue, as he had not the slightest idea
of being able to find his way home, and was so nearly worn
out, that he could not have walked much- further. He had
been without food for about thirty hours, during which time
he supposed he had walked between thirty and forty miles,
in the hope of arriving at some habitation or road that would
lead to one, but without success ; and he was beginning to
lose all hope, when he heard th-* firing of the party. In
this portion of Florida, it is impossiMe to travel above a few
miles without ha'ring to make a ciroi it to avoid an impassa
ble swamp, or impenetrable thicket caUed a hummock ; and
being diverted from pursuing a straight course by theae
obstacles, he had probably been describing a series of circles

110 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
¦within a short distance of where he was discovered. All his
ammunition had been exjiended before he knew that he had
lost his way, so that he had not the means of kiUing game
or kindling a fire ; but at night he had pulled a qu.'-.ntity of
long grass which grew there, and covering himseff up with
it, he managed to sleep a few hours. One of the party, at
the suggestion of the lieutenant, who fumished it himself for
the purpose, had brought a flask of brandy along with him,
and having given him a portion of it mixed with water, and
a sandwich, he was soon so far recovered, as to be able to
walk home to the Fort along 'with the party.
The hummocks of Florida are a peculiar feature of the
country. The uncleared lands, consisting of what is caUed
pine barrens, are wholly composed of large pine trees open
to air and Ught, and between which there thrives a luxuriant
undergrowth of palmettoes, and a great variety of richly
scented and gorgeously-coloured flowering shrubs. A savan
nah of tall strong grass, flve or six feet in length, which
pccurs here and there, and an pccasional swamp, are the only
relieving features, besides the hummocks, which diversify the
dreary monotony of these interminable jrine barrens, coveiing
nearly the whole surface of the state, of which there is, com
paratively speaking, but a small portion under cultivation.
At intervals of a fe-ys^ miles, dense forest thickets, containing
magnificent trees of every description common in Florida,
except the pine, occur in- travelUng through these pine bai--
rens. Oak, Uquid amber, hickory, chestnut, cotton-wood, and
magnoUa, are among the varieties found in the hummocks,
which vary in size from about one mile to two or three in
circumference. The bottoms of many parts of them are
usually swampy, and there is a thick undergrowth of thorny
shrubs and vines, which makes it exceedingly difficult to
penetrate into their dark recesses. During the Florida war,

NATURAL FORTRESSES. Ill
the constant places of refuge for the Indians were the hum
mocks, and woe to the soldiers who followed them too rashly :
Uncle Sam's troops being no match for the red men in those
natural and almost impregnable fortresses. Wounded deer
frequently fly to them for shelter, and when one of them
succeeds in reaching the skirts of a hummock, after having
been wounded at some distance, without the assistance of a
good dog, there is small chance of discovering its dying place,
I have sometimes been seduced into their dark and sombre
shades, in following a fiock of turkeys which had taken shel
ter in the branches of some of the gigantic trees ; on such
occasions I have generally been compelled to emerge frpm
their treacherous recesses with torn clothes, face and hands
scratched, and bemired up to the middle with the mud of the
swamp. In going through these hummocks, one sees the
fallen trunks of large decayed trees lying scattered on the
ground in all directions ; these are very inviting to step on,
when one imagines he is iu danger of sinking up to the arm
pits in a swamp hole. Beware, however, I would say to the
inexperienced and incautious stranger, how you tread on
these fallen trunks ; try them with your foot gently, and see
if they are sound ; many of them are rotten and hollow, and
some of them contain dry lodging for a numerous and thriv
ing colony of moccasins or rattlesnakes, a single puncture
from the venomous tooth of one of which would make you
grievously rue your reckless intrusion on their domestic pri
vacy. Snakes of a great many different varieties are very nume
rous in Florida. During the winter they remain in their
holes in a torpid state, seldom making their appearance for
two or three months during that season ; but in spring and
summer I never went out to take a walk -withput seeing a
number pf them. The rattlesnake, adder, and moccasin, are

112 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
three different species found there, whose bite is exceedingly
dangerous, and, in many cases, fatal ; but they aU luckily
possess a very quick sense of hearing, and generally contrive
to get out of -the way before they are trod upon. I never
heard of a single person being bitten while we lay there,
though in summer we seldom went into the woods -without
wearing a pair of very strong boots, as a protection against
a chance bite. These boots came up to the knees, and were
worn over the pantaloons.
AUigatprs are numerous in the ponds and rivers of Florida,
and may often be seen floating -with the stream Uke the
trunk of a tree, while watching for their prey, on the surface
of the Hillsbro' river, close to _the garrison at Tampa Bay.
One of the soldiers who caught a young one, brought it to
the garrison, designing to rear it as a pet, but as it gave no
signs of profiting by the opportunities of improvement
afforded it, utterly despising the soothing system, and ex
hibiting in the most undisguised manner the natural
depravity and apparently incorrigibly vicious propensities of
the alligator family, by snapping- at dogs, children, and all
who came near it, he was forced to destroy it as a
nuisance. Opossums,- racoons, squirrels, and rabbits, were found in
the woods round the garrison, and a great variety of the
feathered tribes frequented its -ricinity, among which were
pelicans, cranes, ducks, didappers, partridges, pigeons, par-
roquets, 'Vultures, and a host of others. Among the small
birds I observed several species of the humming-bird, the
blue-jay, the scarlet oriole, the redbreast, the woodpecker,
the whip-poor-wUl, with that glorious bird of inimitable
song, the *mockiug-bird. It commences to sing about the
beginning of the month of March, and continues to the
month of June. The celebrated ornithologist, Wilson, has

TURTLE AND OYSTEIiS. 113
given a description of this bird, which I had read, and could
scarcely help thinking must have been rather too highly
coloured and laudatory, until I had heard a few of its extra
ordinary performances, when I freely adinitted its truth. Its
song, to which I have often Ustened on a stiU and clear moon
light night, for that is the time in which it warbles its most
melodious strains, is indescribably sweet. It is the only real
good singing bird in America ; but I would prefer it to aU
the linnets, larks, thrushes, and blackbhds of the old world.
The lagoon-like bays and' creeks on the coast of Florida
abound with many excellent varieties of fish, and turtle are
very numerous and easily caught. We often had turtle
soup at Tampa Bay, as turtle could be bought at two or
three cents a pound. A species of land tortoise called a
gopher, which burrows in the sand, is obtained in the woods
by digging them out of their burrows with a spade ; this
made a very delicious soup, which some preferred to turtle.
There is an excellent oyster-bed on a sand bank in the bay,
about six miles from the garrison ; and occasionally a few of
the men, having obtained the permission of the Quarter-
Master, would take the barge and go down for a supply of
oysters. Going down at low water, it was no hard task to
coUect as many oysters as the whole of the two companies
could consume ; nearly all parts of the coast of Florida
furnish these excellent shell-fish in inexhaustible quanti
ties. I had been about six months in Tampa Bay, when a
vacancy happening to occur, through the discharge of a
corporal, I was appointed in his place. I could easily per
ceive, before I had been long in the ser-rice, that a corporal
or serjeant held no very enviable position ; that his duties
were ill-defined, and the system of discipUne loose and un
satisfactory. On this account I felt no satisfaction at my

114 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
promotion ; besides I had no' adequate motive for submitting
to the increased trouble and responsibility, as I had no in
tention of remaining long in the service. There were many
things transacted of which I strongly disapproved, and I did
not like the idea of sacrificing my individuality and con
scientious opposition to these, by accepting this office.
Owing to these rather pecuUar -riews of mine, I would most
decidedly have declined the distinction, had the opportunity
occurred ; but I was not aware of the circumstance of my
having been recommended for the office until after I had
been appointed, sp that I had not even the chance of refusal.
Not considering myself, therefore, bound to a subser-rient
sUence, seeing that I had not been a voluntary acceptant of
the office, I continued to disburden myself occasionaUy by
strictures and remarks, which I have no doubt must have
appeared excessively ungrateful to several of my superiors,
I have always been rather partial to opposition.
The expected war -with Mexico became a very engrossing
topic while we lay at Tampa Bay, in the summer of 1846,
especially after the news arrived of General Taylor's first
battle on the Rio 'Grande. The mail, wMch was carried
through by a man on horseback from. Augustine, a town on
the sCacoast, about a hundred miles distant, amved only
once a fortnight. Sometimes, on account of the flooded
state of the rivers, which had all to be forded, as there are
Ino bridges in Florida, it did npt arrive until several days
after its time ; on sueh occasions its arrival, an event at any
time, caused the most intense excitement and eager expecta
tion, our officers on those occasions frequently walking down
to the post-office, and waiting for their own letters and
papers. On the day on which the news of General Taylor's
victory at Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma ai-rived, oue
of our officers ha-ring torn the envelope of a newspaper and

A MILITARY DEBATING SOCIETY. 115
read a paragi-aph or two, suddenly took off his, cap, threw
it up in the air, and began to huzza and caper, in the height
of his exultation, much to the astonishment of the spectators,
until he explained that General Taylor had gained a victory.
As for the soldiers, I believe they were all very glad that, as
there had been a battle fought, General Taylor had won it ;
but there was very little enthusiasm, I must say, at the
reception of the news. All seemed to feel a presentiment
of those " coming events" that " cast their shadows before ;"
the Rubicon was passed, and the present victory we felt to
be the precursor of a campaign that would leave the bones
of many a gaUant fellow rotting in the soil of Mexico. As
for the officer here alluded to, he was shot dead in the -rici
nity of the city of Mexico ; had he seen the fate that awaited
him, it would probably have moderated his transports at the
news of the flrst battle.
As a means of passing the time which hung rather heavily
on our hands at Tampa Bay, a debating- society was formed
in the company to which I belonged. The orderly sergeant
of the company, a young man named Beebe, belonging to
the State of New York, gave his aid in its formation by
becoming an active member himself, and procuring the use
of a large room for the purpose of holding the meetings.
The rules adopted for the government of the society were
few and simple, and any soldier, by paying a smaU stated
sum as a subscription for the current expenses, &c., and
reading and subscribing to the regulations of the society,
kept by the secretary, might become a member. Out of
one hundred and twenty men in the two companies stationed
here, only about a dozen joined the society. The meetings
were held once a week, the hours being from seven untU
nine o'clock on Friday evening : they were open to all who
chose to attend, the room being always weU filled ; and if

116 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
they added no -great amount to the valuable, though rather
unwieldy and unclassified, stook of materials called useful
knowledge, they at aU events contributed considerably to
the stock of amusement. These meetings were conducted
with the customary decorum of similar societies in civil Ufe ;
a president, a treasurer, and a secretary, were elected fbr a
month at a time ; these formed a committee, and regulat
ed the affairs of the society. The president gave out the
subject for the ensuing week's discussion, and appointed the
member whose turn it was to open the discussion by a short
essay on the question to be discussed, at the close of each
night's proceedings. The essay was either read or s'poken,
at the option of the party delivering it.
"When it was first proposed, beUeving that it could do no
harm if it did no good, at the solicitations of several of its
projectors, I agreed to join it. Among them were several
rather clever young men, possessing a good deal of general
information, mingled a little too much, perhaps, -with that
sort of consequential air of self-conceit, too often engendered
by the debating society system. ' They had all belonged tc
debating societies in various parts of the Union. Amongst
these, Benthall, an American, had belonged to one in his
native city, Philadelphia ; Williams and Vanduzer, Ameri
cans, to one in Boston; and Beebe, to one in some town in
the State of New York. Theso foUr were Americans, pos
sessed of a good deal of natural acuteness, along with a good
education, and considerable information, Davis and Nutt
were Englishmen ; Donahoe, Lonergan, Madden, and one or
two more, were from the green isle ; while I was the sole
representative of the land o'cakes.
The question proposed, as the subject of the first night's
discussion, was as follows : " Whether is love or anger the
more powerful passion ?" I had been appointed by the' pre-

AN ORATOR LOST. 117
sident to open the discussion by the introductory essay, which
I had been at considerable pains in- arranging, as I 'wished
to deliver it without the assistance of notes, calculating of
course on producing an effect by this studied carelessness of
manner. The vanity of 'wishing to be considered wise, is not
wholly confined to young men of learning ; ahd the ambition
of being thought a distinguished orator, or a clever chopper
of logic, may sometimes be fpund lurking beneath the
worsted epaulette of the soldier, as well as under the digni-^
fied and patrician toga of the bar or the pulpit.
In the meantime, a triffing misadventure came very near
turning my anticipated triumph into a complete disgrace.
That no lack of exertion on my part should be the cause of
faUure, if the fates had decreed adversely to my success, I
resolved on practising a recitation of my essay in the woods.
Accordingly, on the afternoon of the day appointed for the
debate, sallying out with a rifle on my shoulder, I soon
reached a convenient spot, and thoroughly repeated my exer
cise, ha-ring done whioh I pursued my way still farther into
the -woods, until warned by the leng-thening shades of the
taU pines that evening was rapidly approaching. It only
wanted about an hour of sunset when 1 began to plpd my
way homeward to the Fort. While walking leisurely along,
I observed a small blue bird, about the size of a sparrow,
sitting on a twig that overhung the path. In a moment of
thoughtlessness I stopped and took aim at it -with my rifle ;
I was about seventy or eighty yards from it, the point blank
range of my piece, which carried one hundred and twenty
to the pound. As I had not practised much -with the rifle
then, I could not have expected to hit at that distance ; I
drew the trigger, however, and the bird dropped fi-om the
branch. I looked -with remorse on its mangled and torn
corpse, and felt that I had committed an unhallpwed viola-

118 ADVENTURES PP A SPLDIER IN MEXICO.
tion of the quiet sanctity of the -wUderness, that seemed to
call out for vengeance. Angi-y at myseff for doing that
which I had frequently reprobated in others, and desirous of
leaving those fi-owning pines, which one might also fancy
were accusing, though silent, witnesses of this needless
slaughter, I turned into another path, which I thought led
by a shorter way into the Fort. After walking about two
mUes, I found that I had overrated my knowledge of that
part of the country, and that I was completely at fault. To
go back to where I had left the main road would have been
the most certain way to correct my error ; but it would have
delayed me considerably, and I should have nearly seven
miles to walk if I retraced my steps. Besides, by so doing,
I might be too late for the meeting, and I felt that ff I faUed
to make my appearance, my absence might be construed
into a want of confidence in my own ability. I therefore "re
solved upon taking a straight line for the highway through
the bushes, by which I hoped to reduce the distance to about
two miles, I started on this resolution, and for the first mile
or so I got on very well, the ground being firm, and the
bushes not too thick. But at last difficulties began to mul
tiply, in the shape of thorny -rines, that sometimes tripped
my feet, and at others, enveloped my whole body in their
meshes, tearing my clothes and skin. At other times I got
up to the middle in a swamp, when I was forced to go back
and make a circuit to avoid it. At last I was nearly losing
both hope and patience, night was fast closing around, and I
was beginning to think I should have to pass the night in
the woods. I am not very superstitious, I beUeve ; but the
recoUection of the bird so wantonly kiUed, haunted my me
mory just at that moment; like Coleridge's "Ancient Mari
ner," I had done " a hellish thing," in slaying that innocent
bird. Was this entanglement the penance inflicted by the

MILITARY AND CIVIL KLOWENOE. 119
spirit of the woods ? The certain ridicule of my comrades
ff I should not be at the meeting, again occurring to my
mind, I was prompted to make another -rigorous effort ; and
after toUing for about half an hour, I reached the highway,
about half a mile from the Fort, -with no more injury than
torn and soiled clothes, and a few deep scratches from the
prickly vines, across my face and hands. Glad to find it was
no worse, I resumed my journey, and was home in time
enough to be able to change my clothes, wash, and take
some refreshment "before making my appearance at the meet
ing, where I managed to acquit myself tolerably well to my
own satisfaction, as well as that of my fiiends.
Our society existed about three months, a longer period
than I had calculated on its continuance at its &-st com
mencement, and I believe that but for the choice of a . sub
ject for discussion of a rather injudicious nature, at least
considering that the society merely existed by sufferance, it
might have continued to flourish while we remained in that
garrison. With a good deal of the absurd and ridiculous,
there was occasionally a very fair display of talent and abi
lity at these debates. The lawyer and the schoolmaster of the
-riUage, wh6 attended one evening, attracted by curiosity and
the fame of the discussions, were heard to express their as
tonishment and gratification at the skill which some of the
members displayed in handling the topic of the evening. I
am much mistaken ff I have not seen more indifferent spe>-
oimens of eloquence in the newspaper columns, as emana
tions of the legislative -wisdom of the greatest nation in ex
istence, than some of the speeches I have heard delivered in
that society ; and no mighty encomium either, the reader
-will perhaps think, if he has been in the habit of perusing
one pf the Washington daily or tri-weekly papers. The
question which was commonly supposed to have extinguished

120 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
our society was to the following effect, " "W'hether does the
ci-ril or military Ufe offer the highest rewards and incentives
to an honourable ambition ?" This question was propounded
by Theoretical Davis, as Nutt caUed him, who was anxious
to produce several very important facts bearing on the sub
ject, which I am afraid are now lost to the world for ever.
Whether the commanding officer had heard the subject pro
posed for discussion, and considered that it trenched on
rather dangerous ground, we never correctly ascertained,
though suoh was the cui-rent opinion. This much is certain,
that a few days before our next meeting, he issued an order
signifying his disapproval of these societies, as being con
trary to the spirit of the regulations of the service ; so, of
course, there was no more to be said on the subject. A meet
ing of the members was called pne evening for the purpose
of deciding upon the best means of disposing of the sm-plus
funds in the hands of the treasurer, when it was proposed,
and carried without a dissenting voice, that as much whis
key as the money would procure, should be furnished and
produced on the table forthwith. This was done accordingly,
and an exceedingly convivial evening was the result of this
spirited motion.

CHAPTER X.
General Soott — The Coast of Mexico — A jolly Captain— A Gale of
Wind — The River-— Tampico.
About the beginning of October, 1846, we received a large
draft of recruits from Governor's Island, who were distributed
between the two companies lying at Tampa Bay, increasing
each to about eighty-six men ; this we considered very Uke a
hint to prepare for a move to Mexico. General Scott, at the .
commencement of the war with Mexico, had been accused
of a want of skiU, courage, and patriotism, by a large portion
of the captain Bobadil editors of the " great nation." This
abuse he had received principally, I believe, in consequence
of declining to adopt the very simple and cheap method
recommended by the said Bobadils ; which was to march
through every town in Mexico with a regiment of five
hundred men, and -wind up with taking deliberate possession
of the halls of the Montezumas, where he shotild reniain
until the Mexicans were inclined to come to terms. General
Scott, who knew how to "bide his time," had waited
patiently, quietly digesting the hasty plate of soup, the bare
mention of which had caused so much commotion amoug
people of weak stomachs throughout the country generally.
At last the President and his advisers, seeing no prospect of
a speedy and successful issue to the war -without putting his
military talents into requisition, which they were quite
wiUing to discover, or acknowledge, as long as they stood in
need of them, began to think of employing him. The plan
6

122 adventures of a soldier in MEXICO.
of marching through the country with five hundred men
was now rarely spoken of, and the expedition preparing at
the suggestion of General Scott, was being fitted out on a
scale somewhat commensurate with the importance of the
- undertaking contemplated ; which was generaUy understood
to be the reduction of Vera Cmz, and a subsequent march to
the gates of the city of Mexico.
On the loth of December arrived the order which we had
been long expecting ; we were to be in readiness for imme
diate embarkation, being required to join the present expedi
tion fitting out for the reduction of Vera Cruz. Dur place
at Tampa Bay, which, on account of the Indians in its
neighbpurhpod, could not be left wholly defenceless, was to
be suppUed by a body of Volunteers raised in Floi-ida for
the purpose, until the war in Mexico should cease. So
desirous were we of escaping from fhe duU monotony of this
place, of which we were exceedingly tired, that I believe
many heard the orders to prepare for leaving it vrith much
satisfaction. But the married men, whose vrives and famUies
were a;U"'{p be left behind, -were looking very duU ; and as for
the wife of our Lieutenant, who had four small children, she
cried for a -whole day, it was said, when the order came.
Poor woman! if- she could have foreseen that her husband
was to faU mortally wounded, pierced in the body with three
musket-balls, at the battle of Churubusco, about nine months
after receiving that order, she would have cried still more
bitterly. The vrives and families of officers and soldiers
were aUowed by government to remain in the quarters they
occupied when their husbands left ; they were also fiirnished
with rations until the conclusion of the war, when they were
to be forwarded to those garrisons to which their husbands
were sent.
About ^ fortnight after we had received the order to be

A MILD FORM OF- INSANITY. 123
in readiness, a merchant brig, called the John Potter, arrived
to take us to Tampico, a port about two hundred mUes east
of Vera Cruz, where the forces destined for General Scott's
expedition were to be concentrated. We embarked on the
1st January, 1847, and on the moming of the 2nd we set
sail, and having a fair wind, sppn IpSt sight of the low-lying,
sandy coast of Florida. We found our accommodation in
the John Potter rather limited, there being nearly two
hundred men on board a vessel not quite three hundred tons
burden ; but one comfort was that we were spared the
annoyance which is usually caused in a crowded vessel by
women and children, "there not being a single stick of a
petticoa.t on board," as some one remarked. My comrade,
Nutt, and two or three more of the soldiers, who had been
sailors at a former period of theh lives, were engaged, with
the permission of our commanding officer, to help to work
the vessel, which had left Charleston short of hands. One of
the crew had also become partially insane since he had been
shipped there, and they oould not trust him to do much
work. He had just been discharged from hospital at
Charleston when he came on board, and his health had not
been firmly established, it was supposed, as he had a paUid
and dejected sort of look. His insanity was of a mild form,
and he was perfectly quiet ; but he insisted that the ship
swarmed -with a crew of horrible-looking old vritches, num
bers of whom he saw perched upon the rigging, and who
he constantly affirmed would lead the vessel intP difficulty.
Nothing could persuade him that the JoTvn Potter was not a
doomed craft, that would never leave the gulf; and Ihough
he sometimes took a tum at the wheel, steering as weU as
the others, yet he kept always eyeing the rigging vrith, a
troubled and suspicious glance. One of our recruits who
had joined with the late draft in Tampa Bay, had also

124 ADVENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
become insane a few weeks after he joined ; he was named
Hogg, and belonged to the north of Ireland, He had been
in hospital for some time previous to our embarkation, but
the surgeon was of opinion that he was only acting the
character for the purpose of procuring his discharge, and he
was placed in charge of a sentry when we went on board.
One day, when the sentry having him in charge had his
attention attracted, elsewhere, Hogg, having climbed over the
ship's side, got ihto the forechains, and stripping off his
clothes, jumped into the water. The vessel was going at the
rate of three or four knots at the time, and befsre we could
get her hove-to, and a boat lowered, he had gone nearly a
mile astern, and had he not been a very good svrimmer, he
must have been drowned. As sharks were numerous in
those seas, and as there had been one reported alongside
several times since we sailed, few questioned the fact of the
poor feUow's insanity after that pccurrence, and shertiy after
our arrival at Tampico he was discharged.
On the morning of the tweffth, after a pleasant voyage of
pnly ten days' duration, the coast of Mexico was distinctly in
-riew. We had the cable all on deck, and considering the
voyage ended, we were congratulating each other upon the
short and withal pleasant trip we had made. But we were
rather premature, as, it fell out, and our voyage was not to be
over so soon as we anticipated. It is a very good old saw,
the truth of which we fully experienced on this occasion,
that " We should not halloo till we are out of the wood."
We had the clear bold outline of the lofty inland range of
mountains, which the coast of Mexico there presents, in view
for the remainder of the day ; and at sunset we were said to
be within twenty miles or so of anchorage. The first mate,
who was an excellent sailor, and generally considered by the
crew and soldiers to be the most competent of any on board,

A JpLLY SKIPPER. 125
was very anxious that we should run into anchorage that
night. He was of opinion that, as we had good moonlight,
and the wind light and answerable, we should run in during
the night, and drop anchor a few miles from the mouth
of the Panuco, when we would be ready for the steamer in
the morning, which would tow us over the bar, and up the
river to Tampico. But unfortunately the captain happened
to differ in opinion with him, or rather, he had no very
decided opinion upon, the matter, it being said that he com
phed with the wishes of some of om officers, who thought
there was danger in going in -without good dayUght. The
captain, therefore, resolved upon tacking off -and on during
the night, and taMng his chance of a change of vrind in the
shape of one of those -riolent gales called northers, which
are prevalent at that season, and which was the contingency
so much dreaded by the mate from former experience on
that coast. It was also said that the captain had a capital
stock of liquors on board, which he wished to dispose of
before entering port ; and to judge fi-om the rubicund jolUty
of his countenance, through which his half-shut blue eyes
twinkled with the pecuUar silly-looking, though good-
humoured leer of the toper, he must have been a staunch
anti-teetotaller. During the whole of the voyage, up to the
present time, he had sel d'6m> made his appeararice upon deck,
having left the sailing of the vessel wholly to the first mate,
and being solely occupied meanwhile in carousing, and
drinking bumpers., to the success of the expedition, along
with our officers, towards whom he apparently exercised
an excess of hospitality that, under existing circumstances,
might have been much better dispensed -with. If our
officers, as has been alleged, reaUy influenced the decisions of
the captain, causing him to keep his vessel off until moming,
in place of tea-ring the matter in the hands of the mate,

126 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
their ignorant and presumptuous interference was pretty
severely punished by the result.
~ Having stood off and on, as it is called in sea phrase, by
tacking at short intervals during fhe night, next morning-
we found with the wind we had, we could run in to an
offing in four or five hours. The appearance of the morning
was rather suspicious, being sUghtly cloudy and showery,
but the breeze was in, our favom, and we went steadUy along
iit the rate ' of six or seven knots an hour, expecting to be in
the rivei- by noon. At ele-y-en o'clock we were -within a
couple of miles of the anchorage, and the pilot coming off to
board us was only about half a mile from our bows, when a
heavy, darkJooking cloud which had been gathering ahead of
us for the pre-rious ten minutes, began to sprinkle the deck
with a few large drops. At the same time the whistling and
hissing sounds, amongst the running gear and shrouds,
changing flnaUy into the wild roar of the hurricane, as the
vessel careened over nearly on her -beam ends, showed that
there was no time to be lost ; the gale was on us, and
our only chance was to " cut and run," as the saUors term it.
Fortunately the storm had not come pn unobserved, a
number of the safls had been taken in previous to this, and
as the gale came on, the vessel was speedily put about, and
bounding -with astonishing velocity from the harbour. As
for the pilot he was close in shore, having run for the nearest
point on the first burst of the gale. The captain, who, to do
him justice, was a' very good sailor when he was roused, and
whp now probably saw his error, and regretted that he had
not taken the mate's advice Pn the previous evening,
behaved -with a great deal of energy and decision ; both he
and the mate shovring by their example how a sailor
can and ought to work in an emergency like the present.
Indeed but for the extraordinarv exertions of the officers and

A " NORTHER." 127
sailors composing the crew, I believe we should have been
driven on the sands ; and some days afterwards, when the
gale had moderated, the captain confessed that we had a
very narrow escape. In the meantime, under close-reefed
topsails we were scudding through the water with fearful
velocity, far more anxious now to get out fi-om land, than we
had been a few hours ago to approach it. For several hours
the colour of the water warned us of our close proximity to
the shoal sahdy coast, fetal to so many gallant vessels, and
it was evening before we were considered Put of any imme
diate danger. The captain and mate were heard to agi-ee
while conversing together pn the subject, that but fpr
the superior qualities of the fohn Potter in saiUng close to
the -wind, we should have been driven on a lee shore in spite
of the best seamanship in the world. It was a knowledge
of the frequency of these north gales at that season of the
year, and the danger of being caught by one upon a lee
shore, that made the mate wish to run in on the previous
night. Had the captain taken his advice and done so,
we should have been over the bar, and in the river at
anchor, several hours before the gale came on before which
we were now driving ; but there was no use for unavaiUng
regrets. During the whole morning's proceedings, the sailor
who was wi-ong in his head, sat perched on the point of the
bowsprit with his legs crossed, looking up at the rigging,
and in towards the deck of the vessel. Amidst all the rain
and wind, and the bustle of putting the ship about, he never
stirred from his position ; towards evening one of the men
went out, and coaxed him to come down. " Tm blest if I
know wliat to make of that unlucky beggar, and his strange
lingo about witches and such Uke," said an old tar, " but tf
so be as how there is witches bringing ill luck on the vessel,
it .must be him they follow, for no one else sees them but

128 ADVENTURES OF, A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
him. At all events, if I was the skipper, the first day I
went into port, would be the last day the unlucky beggar
would ever put a foot on the John Potter'' s deck."
SteadUy and without intermission for the next three, days
the cold bitter north blast continued to blow. I have never
seen a gale last so long with such continuous and unmiti-'
gated fury. We had one comfort, however, in the midst of
our misfortunes ; this was found in the admirable quahties.
and excellent behaviour of the John Potter ; these consti- ,
tuted a theme of universal praise. " She. was not a very
handsome built craft wasn't the J"oAw Potter,^' one of the old
tars remarked, the same old fellow who smade the remarks
about witches, but blest if he ever seed a craft that seemed to
understand what you wanted of her, or would do it more
cheerfully than this same craft. "Why, bless your soul," he
continued, " half of your fine Baltimore clippers -W^ould have
been lying on the sands if they had been in our place the
other morning,; give me the craft that never misses in stays,
and lies well to the vrind." ", Be the blessed bird of heaven !
if she doesn't watch the waves coming and ride on the top
of them like a duck," said Dennis MuUoney. "Yaw, dat is
vat you call a wasser duck," said a phlegmatic-looking Dutch
man, as the combing of a huge wave brpke over | the bulwarks -
to windward, gi-ring the party a tolerable specimen of the-
douche, and thoroughly drenching their clothes ,frbm head to
foot. While, the gale cpntinued very f6w ofthe men stayed
upon deck, and as the vessel pitched a good deal, they with
few exceptions lay in their berths nearly all the time it last
ed, a period of nearly three days, during which time, of
course we' never attenipted cooking. With some of my com
rades I riianaged tp crawl upon deck, now and then, to have
a look at the weather, and I sliaU not soon forget the appear
ance of the sea upon thesse occasions. The huge black inky

-- SHORT COMMONS, 129
looking masses of water, -with then superb crests of snow-
white foam,, as they came rolling on, presented a spectacle
at once grand, magnificent, and appalling. Three or four of
these huge waves bounded the visible horizon, as the drifting
spray prevented us from seeing more than two or three hun
dred yards on each side bf the vessel.
At length the gale having fairly exhausted its fury, we
began to entertain hopes of speedUy regaining the port from
which we had been so suddenly and unceremoniously driven.
But our hopes were somewhat qualified by the inteUigence
that we would be fortunate if we could reach Tampico -within
a week, while our prorisions would be wholly consumed in
three or four days, unless we were put on short allowance.
The reason of our provisions being short, was owing to the
commissariat stores at Tampa Bay being nearly exhausted
when the John Potter arrived. Had we waited for a sup,ply
from New Orleans, we might have been detained eight or ten
days, and the officer in command, afraid of appearing too
cautious, resolved upon taking the responsibility of proceed
ing with what we had. K we had been so fortunate as to
get in before encountering this gale, we should have had
enough, but it is extremely injudicious, to say the least of it,
to send troops to sea, with just sufficient provisions to last, in
the event of a fortunate voyage. In consequence of the short
ness of provisions, -we were accordingly supplied with eight
ounces of biscuit a day, instead of a pound, as formerly.
This was no great hardship, but as the wind died away, and
we were lying idly becalmed for two or three days, serious
apprehensions began to be felt, lest we should soon have
nothing at all to eat. Besides, if we did not get the wind in
our favour soon, the probability was that we should be caught
by another gale, as at that period of the year, it was seldom
that two or three weeks elapsed without one of these danger-
6*

130 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
OUS visiters. In this latter event our case vyould be hopeless
indeed, unless we should have the good luck to faU in -with
some4.ship who might give us some assistance. One of our
officers had brought a dozen hams from Tampa Bay ; these
were stowed down in the hold, and intended as a valuable
reinforcement to the larder of the officers' regimental mess at
Tampico. But some of the men having discovered the na-'
ture of the contents of the box in which they were packed,
and acting upon the axiom that in cases bf general emer
gency, private property may be lawfuUy seized, and appro
priated for the general gopd, they contrived to make a very
expeditious clearance cf these comestibles,- However, to pre
serve appearances, and prevent any unpleasant feelings on the
subject while on board, they had the box made up in' weight,
by packing a sufficient quantity of -ballast among the straw,
ill place of the hams ; and having nailed on the Ud, the
damage vf^as not discovered until the box was opened, after
we went ashore.
Our short allowance had continued for five or six days,
during which I cannot say that I suffered any inconvenience
from hunger, though, like the rest of my companions, feeling
sometimes a slight degree ; of anxiety as to our future pros
pects ; but before being reduced quite to the starvation pointj
we fortunately met -with assistance. On the moming of the
20th, we descried a steamer tc leeward, and on making saU
for it, and hoisting the American flag half mast, as a signal
that we required assistance, we soon had the satisfaction of
¦ seeing that she 'had observed it, and was directing her course
towards us. On her nearing us we found that she was a large
propeller, in the employment of Government, called the Mas
sachusetts. She was on her way to the Rio Grande, with
dispatches for General Scott, who was there at that time, and
consequently could not tow us into Tampico, as our com-

A RUNNING C0M.MENTARY. 131
manding officer requested, but offered to supply us jrith pro
visions. This offer we were very glad to accept, so cbming
alongside, she gave us twenty barrels of niscuit, and a few
barrels of pork"; and her captain bidding us good bye, and
-vrishing us " better luck next thne," she was sppu on her
course, and in a few hours out of sight.
Although disappointed in getting towed into the river, ,we
were now comparatively independent to what we had been a
few hours pre-rious, having provisions enough to last for
several weeks on board, in case of emergency ; and the wind,
though light, continuing to blow steadily in our favour, in a
few days after this event we were again in sight of, and
rapidly nearing the harbour. When within about ten mUes
of the mouth of the river, fhe pilot came on board ; this time
he cariie in a six oared boat, rowed by Mexicans. These
were the first Mexicans we had seen, fine tall stout looking
fellows they were, biit as we afterwards found considerably
above the average of their countrymen in height and physi
cal condition. As we expected to meet some of their
countrymen sopn, in the "tug of war,'' of course then
personal appearance excited considerable interest, and re
mark. " By the hokey,'' said Mick Ryan, " I don't see that
thim Mexicans is the weeny yaller atPmies they do be teUing
us, afther all." " Faith an it's no Ue for you, Micky, anyhpw,
barrin the ignorant crathurs don't know the beauties of the
shillelah, they look like boys that could empty a fair in Jess
than no time, and a fistful ov minutes to spare ; but with the
help ov the blessed Vargin, we'll soon see how they behave
in front ov their betthers," responded' Paddy Byrne. "By
my conscience, Geordie, they're a strong, supple, treacherous
looking set of dee-rils ; od gin they hae a trifle of courage,
wi' the defensible natm-e o' their kintra, an their am d — d
cleemate to back them, Fm thinking we may consider

132 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER. IN MEXICO.
ourselves in a pretty considerable Ht of a fix, as Johathan
says," remarked Tom Mathieson. In the meantime, the
Mexicans had come on board, .and -yrere jabbering and
laughing to one another in their own language, in the most
free and easy manner apparently, and making use of their
two or three English words, while offering to shake hands
with any of our men who approached. But none pf our
men could talk Spanish, and their English consisted merely
of a few of those epithets, and phrases, " not calculated for
ears polite," the universal introduction to the English lan
guage, at those foreign ports, where the schoolmaster abroad
is the sailor or the soldier. The pilot, a little withered
looking old fellow, and a true Castilliano, as he repeatedly
endeavoured to make us comprehend, by repeating the term,
and pointing to himself at the same time, had no^. taken
charge of the vessel. The moming was dehghtfully clear,
and we had a beautiful view of the romantic scenery of the
wooded mountain range, that bounds the prospect round
the bay of Tampico, The shore round the bay is low
and sandy, and covered with groups of cactuses, and other
thorny shrubs ; but a short distance inland the soil is rich,
and clothed with vegetation of a more valuable and pleasing
character, abounding in good natural grass, and a variety of
wild fi-uits and flowers. , About ten o'clock on the morning
of the 25th we dropt anchor about two or three miles from
the mouth of the river, and about an hour after a steamer
arrived to tow us in.
The entrance to the river PanuCo is very difficult to sailing
vessels, being .obstructed by a dangerous sandbar at its
mouth, and at the time -We entered, the skeletons of two
large craft, and several smaller ones, bedded in the sands at
the entrance, gave signiflcant warning to the careless na-riga-
tor. It is only at particular favom-able conjunctions of wind

RIVER SCENERY. 133
and tide, that a pilot "will risk bringing a saiUng vessel over,
but the necessity of waiting for a fair vrind was at the present
time obviated in the case of American vessels, by the
government having stationed steam-tugs there, to take
vessels over the bar, and up and down the river. We were
towed over the bar by the steam-tug, without any difficulty,
but the tide not answering to go up to the town of Tampico,
which is about ten or twelve mUes up the river, wo again let
go our anchor. Our vessel was now immediately surrounded
by a whole fleet of canoes, with fruits ahd vegetables for
sale, which they sold exceedingly cheap ; and finding plenty
of eager purchasers among our men, their stock of oranges,
pine-apples, plantains, bananas, etc., was speedily disposed
of Towards evening, the tide serving, the steam-tug arrived
to take us up to Tampico. As we sailed up the river, which
here seems a sort of miniature Mississippi, being a dull,
broad, coffee-coloured stream with a strong current, its
banks clothed with luxuriant vegetation, and its muddy line
of water-mark covered with a debris of the trunks of trees,
of the genus snag, the interesting featmes of the landscape
were gazed at with intense curiosity. The palmetto-thatched
hut, the tall cocoa-nut tree, with its slender and graceful
trunk, and its huge fan-like leaves, reUeved so distinctly by
the deep azure of the blue sky ; the tropical looking banana
with its immense bunches of delicious fnut ; the orange trees
-with their fruits of golden hue, gleaming so temptin^y
through the deep dark green of their thick foliage ; all these
in turn elicited our admiration and excited our curiosity.
The left bank of the river especially attracted our attention :
the mountains which there ascend gradually from within a
short distance of the river are very lofty, and covered to
their summits -with trees, and evergreen vegetation of every
varied and contrasting shade and hue ; and each new turn

134 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
of the serpentining river presented- some fresh combination,
from the changed point of view ; producing the most dehght
ful panoramic variation of scenery imaginable.
This town of Tampico has a very pleasing and Uvely
appearance viewed from the river, the hpuses and stores
facing' which are painted red or white ; nearly all have
porticos in front, supporting balconies or verandas, and the
ppen space between them and the river is vride and weU
paved. Sloping up from the wharf is the market place,
which, like aU, Mexican markets, presents a very busy and
animated picture ; game, fish, fi-uit, and vegetables were the
principal commodities in the market bn the next morning
after our arrival, and these were aU remarkably cheap, a
brace of -wild ducks being sold for a real (about sixpence), and
other articles in proportipn. The town is principally built
on a hill which has a gradual ascent for about haff a mile
along the right bank of the river ; the highest part of it ia
near the house of the British Consul. A little way above,
the hill ends in a precipitous bluff, from which there is an
excellent view of the river and surrounding country. . We
had no sooner, dropped anchor in the stream, than we were
boarded by several boatloads of men belonging to those
companies of our regiment from whom we had been sepa
rated on lea-ring Pensacola. They congratulated us warmly
on our safe arrival, the current" report having been for some
days previous, that the John Potter had been wrecked, and
all hands lost. They told us they had been lying in camp
in the suburbs of the to-wn for the last month ; that about a
third of them had the fever and ague ; that there were five
or six thousand troops in the town, and in a few days as
many more 'were expected : that tobacco was sold for a
dollar a pound, and a poisonous description of liquor, under
the denomination of brandy, for a shiUing a glass ; and a few

ARRIVAL AT CAMP. 135
more items ofthat sort, comprising the current gossip of the
camp. It was near sunset when we dropped anchor, sp we had to
content ourselves for another night on board ; but boats came
alongside biinging their welcome supplies of fresh bread,
cheese, fruits, and other tempting luxuries ; and there were
few on board the. John Potter who did not indulge in at
least one ample meal as a counterpoise to the hard and
unpalatable fare, and forced abstemiousness of the voyage.
Early next moming a steamer came alongside and took our
baggage, which was landed in a very expeditious maimer,
and placed in the commissary waggons waiting on the wharf
for its reception ; after which we were aU landed by the
steamer. Having left a srhall guard to escort the baggage,
we were formed into companies, and preceded by the lively
notes of the ear-piercing fife, and the beat of martial drum,
we marched through the principal streets of Tampico to the
camp, which lay nearly a mUe do-wn the river.
On arriving at the camp, after piling arms, and taking off
our knap?acks, we were shown, by the adjutant of the regi
ment, the ground our companies were to occupy, and imme
diately proceeded to pitch our tents. This was soon done,
and then we commenced cleaning our arms and accoutre
ments. The other companies stationed here before us had
aU their things in the most perfect order ; and as there were
parades and inspections every morning, our lieutenant hoped
we would try to uphold 'the credit of company I. All bur
clothes also requhed to be washed after our voyage, but as
there were plenty of poor Mexican women coming to our camp
and asking for clothes to wash, which they did very weU,
and cheap, Nutt and I got one of them to wash for us while
•we stayed there, thus saving a great deal of very disagree
able labour at a trifling expense. For the purppse of aUpw-

136 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
ing US to rest a little after the hardships of our voyage, and
also to give us an opportunity to oleari our accoutrements and
clpthes, the commanding officer excused us from going to
parade fbr two days after our arrival, dming which time we
contrived to get all our things into good condition;

CHAPTER XI.
The Tcwn and its Population — Eeinforcements — General Shields —
Bill Nutt as Orderly — ^Expedition to Vera Cruz.
I SAID the town of Tampico had a pleasing appearance when
viewed -from the river, but a closer inspection dissipates the
favourable impression made by its fii-st appearance. The
streets nearest the river are composed of good substantial
stone buildings, inhabited by the wealthiest part of the
population ; but in the suburbs, and a number of the back
streets, are rows of the most wretched--looking habitations,
containing-the most squalid population which the imagina
tion can conceive. I had seen misery in Ireland which I
thought unsurpassable, but some of the poor wretches in the
suburbs of Tampico, presented a squalor of appearance more
abjectly miserable than anything I had seen even there.
The huts of the poor are built either of mud, or bamboos,
stuck as close together as possible, and placed upright in
the ground ; they are covered with palmetto leaves, which
are also interwoven with the bamboos to exclude the cold
wind of the north gales which blow during the -winter. The
interior of these huts presents as forlorn and -wretched an
aspect as the exterior ; they are mostly destitute of fumiture,
save a few earthen pipkins used as cooking utensUs, and a
mat of grass or rushes, used as a bed. The only bed the
bulk of the labouringL population of Mexico ever think of
sleeping upon, is a mat spread dovm on the floor, on which
they sleep without ever taking off theh clothes — a practice

138 ADVENTURES OF A SPLDIER IN MEXICC.
whiph is quite sufficient to account forthe charges' of dirt
and vermin brought- by most travellers against the Mexicans ;
charges of the truth of which, while I was in Mexico, I had
frequently too abundant proof
The gentry and respectable portion ofthe inhabitants kept
very retired whUe we lay in the -ricinity, many of them, shut
ting themselves up in their houses, as ff in a State of siege.
Indeed it was no great wonder though they should be a lit
tle shy of the strange, wUd-looking, hah-y-faced savages of the .
half horse and half alUgator breed, who galloped about the
streets and plazas mounted on mules and Mexican ponies,
and armed with sabres, bovries, and revolvers, and in every
uncouth variety of costume peculiar to the American back
woodsman. The senors or caballeros, masters or gentlemen,
the Mexicans called them when addressing them, but when
speaking of them in their absence, it was " Malditos Volun-
teros," which they enunciated with a bitterness of tpne, that
showed the intensity of their dislike. In fact I believe they
had no great love for any portion of the " hereticos America
nos," though the volunteers- seemed to be objects of their
special detestatiori ; and I imagine they looked upon us aU
with similar complacency, to that vvhich the Spaniards looked
upon the army of France, during its usurpation of the Pe
ninsula. About a week after our arrival, a strong reinforcement
arrived from General Taylor's army at Monterey. These
were principaUy volunteers, and one regiment caUed the Ten
nessee cavalry, were a fine looking set of stout fellows, weU
clothed,- armed, and mounted, at least for volunteers ; and
they were said to have behaved very well in action. But
they had only been raised for one year. A few months after
ward,, when their time expired, great exertions were used to
induce them to remain, but vrith no effect ; the poor feUows

ARMY FOLLOWERS. 139
had " seen the elephant," and were perfectly satisfied with
the exhibition. A considerable number of regular troops,
both infantry and artillery, were also withdrawn at this time
from General Taylor's army for the Vera Cruz expedition,
weakening his force exceeduigly. This, it- was thought, had
suggested the idea to Santa Anna of overwhelming him by
superior numbers, and taking^him and his whole army pri
soners, which resulted in the battle of Buenavista ; where the
Mexicans, in a fair field, arid with a nrunerical force of at least
four to one, were so shamefully defeated.
The town of Tampico had a bustling and animated ap
pearance while the troops remained in the vicinity, a band
of music furnished by each regiment in succession playing
in the main plaza for, a few hours each evening ; and the
streets and houses of entertainment being thronged vrith
officers and soldiers. The troops received two months' pay
while we lay here, being paid up to the 1st January ; there*
was consequently a good deal of money amongst the meh
for a few days. The larger portion of this soon found its
way into the hands of the army followers, a sort of human
-vultures who foUowed the army all through the campaign,
keeping hotels, called by the popular cognomens of " The
Palo Alto House," " The Rough and Ready Restaurant,"
" American Star Hotel," &c. ; the whole stock in trade of
said restaurants and hotels mostly consisting of a piece of
-riUanoUsly tough roasted or fried carne (beef), and a few
dollars' worth of an abominable spirituous liquor caUed
aguardiente. The Mexican shop-keepers were prohibited
from seUing spirits to the soldiers under the pain of a heavy-
penalty, but these camp followers were winked at by some
means or other, and the scoundrels had a complete monopoly'
of the sale of liquor, and were permitted to poison and
phmder the soldiers with' impunity. In most of these houses

140 Ah VENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
gambling was incorporated vrith the business of selling
liquor, two or three professional gamblers being usually the
joint proprietors of these low concerns, where the most
brutal riots, frequently resulting in loss of "life, were of
frequent recurrence. It^would have considerably improved
the morale of the army ff these shops had been prohibited,
and all citizens not in the employment of govemment packed
off to the States.
A company of theatrical performers, who had been -with
General Taylor's army in Monterey and Matamoras,, came
down with the division of troops which had just arrived,
arid were performing to good houses in town, the officers and
soldiers crowding the theatre every night to overflovring. A
newspaper, called the American Star, was also published
once a week, and sold at six cents. As it was only pur
chased by the army, of course its Circulation must have been
rather limited ; but it usuaUy contained a good many items
of army intelUgence, and a considerable number were
bought tp send home to friends in the States, both by officers
and soldiers.
For some time after our arrival at Tampico, our regiment
furnished an orderly to General Shields, who was selected
by the adjutant, at guard mounting, from the men paraded
for that duty. One day my comrade Bill Nutt having been
selected for the office, a rather amusing occurrence happened
-to him. It appeared that Nutt, who had never seen the
general, had taken him for a servant, as he had opened the
door for him, and also from his wearing plain clothes,
and his free and unassuming manners. The morning was
cold, and he had asked Nutt to sit down at the fireside,
sitting down himself on the opposite side, and entering into
conversation with him. Nutt, who laboured under a false
impression vrith regard to the identity of the perspn he "was

ACTIVE OPERATIONS AT HAND, 141
addressing, had spoken his sentiments very freely on some
of the topics connected with the present war, condemning
the aggressive sort of policy that seemed to actuate the
democratic party of America. In the midst of a discussion
on the question at issue, an officer in uniform entered
from an adjacent apartment, and bowing to Nutt's opponent,
who was calmly listening at the time to his 'riews of the sub
ject, addressed him by the title of general. Nutt, who felt
quite- shocked at the discovery, made a hasty and unbereirio-
nious retreat into the ante-room, and though the general
resumed the subject after the departure of his guest, he con
fessed that the general soon had the best of the argument, as
he could not speak vrith the same fr-eedom as before. Nutt
often aUuded afterwards to the urbanity and gentlemanlike
manners of General Shields, allowing that a few gentlemen
might be found among the citizens ofthe enlightened republic,
and quoting him as one example, at least, that he had met
¦with in his travels.
Our troops, a large proportion of whom were raw recruits,
were kept closely at drill whUe we lay in camp at Tampico,
and by the end of February they were considered in good
order for active operationsi General Scott's arrival about
the 20th was a signal to be ready for a move, and in a day
or two after, the army received orders to embark ; the ffi-st
of the troops going on board on the 24th.
Several days were occupied in getting all the men and
horses on board, but on the 27th of February all were ready
to sail. The regiment to which I belonged, being in the last
division, had no delay 5 and getting into a steamer at the
wharf at Tampico, we were taken down the river and put on
board the barque Caroline, with all our baggage, in a
few hours. We were no sooner on board than we began to
weigh anchor, and in a very short time aU our transports

142 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO. -
had spread their canvas to the breeze. Our fleet, compris
ing nearly a huhdred sailing vefeels, fifty or sixty of which_
were large ships and the remainder brigs and schooners,
presented a very imposing appearance during the afternoon.
The change of position perpetually occmring in the different
vessels, caused by the difference in theh ' rates of sailing,
created excitement among the men; and added variety and
animation to the scene. The number of large ships filled
vrith troops, stores, and ammunition, and the strength of our
whole armament, as compared with anything which Mexico
could furnish, inspired our men with the certainty of success
in the reduction of Vera Cruz. As to the cost of life
involved. in the undertaking, that was left to the chapter of
accidents ; in reckoning the probable contingencies of a
coming ehgagement; the soldier seldom includes himseff in
the list of the kUled and wounded. Our destination for the -
time was the island 'of Lobos, that being the place appointed
for the whole vessels belonging to the expedition to rendez
vous, preparatory to sailing for the harbour of Vera Cruz.
We had a smart gale of wind dm-ing the night, and next
morning we could only discern two or three vessels in
the horizon out of'the large fieet which had sailed -with
us on the previous -ip-ay. We arrived at Lobos about five
o'clock of the same 'Evening, and eame to anchor; having
beaten every vessel of the expedition. The others continued
to drop in by twos, and threes until the middle of the day,
by which time they had all cpme to anchor.
Lcbos is, a small sand} island not far from the coast, be
tween Tampico and Vera Cruz. It is not seen until the voya
ger is close upon it, as it is very little above the level of the
sea. WhUe we lay there, as there was a slight gale of wind,
the sea broke in a heavy surf on the barren and desolate spot,
on which the only signs of vegetation were a few stunted

THE SUMMONS AND THE ANSWER. 143
shi-ubs, evidently struggling hard with the difficulties of their
situation for a bare subsistence. Three or four vessels from
New Orleans were lying here on our arrival ; they formed
part of the expedition, and were waiting for us ;, a few of
their passengers had gone ashore and. pitched tents, pre
ferring to sleep on the solid sand to the pitching of the
vessel, AU pur fleet having arrived, pn the morning of
the 1st March we again set sail for Vera Cruz, which we
reached on the evening of the 2nd, and came to anchor about
eight miles from the. castle of San Juan de UUoa, the name
of the fortification at Vera Cruz, about four miles from Sacri
ficios, a small island near the castle, where " men-of-war "
anchor. On the moming of the thi^d. General Scott summoned the
city and castle of Vera Cruz to surrender ; and after a delay
of several days, consumed in discussion by'the military go
vernor and the ciril authorities, the latter of whom were in
favour of a surrender, a definitive answer was returned to Gene
ral Scott that he might come and take them if he could.
San Juan is a very strong fortification built upon a small
island in the bay, about three quarters of a mile fi-om the
pier at Vera Cruz. It had a garrison of between five and
six thousand men, was well supplied with ammunition, and
bristling with cannon, of which it had about a hundred, some
of them of very heavy calibre. The buildings in the castle
are all bombproof, and with the sea wall, are buUt of a soft
species of coral, in which cannpn balls are imbedded without
producing the usual shattering and crumbling effect of these
missiles on stone of a harder quaUty, and which is necessary
to cause a breach. It was generaUy considered impregnable,
and could only be approached by vessels on one side, a coral
reef stretching round it on every side except the one facing
the town. The city of Vera Cruz is surrounded -with a wall

144^ ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
about twelve or fifteen feet high, but which could be easUy
breached, and there are a number of half moon batteries
round it well manned with guns ; it is about three miles in
dircumference. Having received the answer of the govemor refusing to
surrender, on the evening of the 7th General Scott issued an
order for the tropps to prepare for landing next moming.
Commanding officers were directed to see their men furnished
with two days' provisions in their havresacks, and that they
had their canteens slUng, and fflled with water. Each man
was also to take either his great-coat or his blanket with
him, leaving the remainder of his clothes and necessaries,
packed in his knapsack, on board. On the morning of the
Sth, however, a stiff breeze ha-ring commenced to blow, the
surf was too hea-vy for landing, and the order was counter
manded. On the evening of the Sth the order of the pre
vious evening was re-issued for the next morning, which
having turned out fine, shortly after sunrise we began to get
into the boats.

CHAPTER xn.
Sacrificios— The debarkation— A bivouac — ^A night alarm.
The surf-boafs used for our disembarkation, had been ex
pressly made for the purpose, for which they were admirably
adapted, being strong, Ught, and roomy, and carrying about
a hundred men -with ease. The whole of the troops had been
told off into three divisions, which had to be transferred from
the vessels they were in, to those denominated in the order.
When all were ready, at a signal from the vessel in which
General Scott was, we were to get under weigh for Sacrificios,
where we were to drop anchor and disembark at a distance
of four miles from the city of Vera Cruz. The regiment to
which I belonged was transferred tP the deck of the Porpoise
man-of-war brig. Between ten and eleven o'clock, a,m., the
troops having been all arranged on the vessels, on board of
which they had been ordered to proceed, we got under
weigh ; but as the breeze was against us we had to beat up,
and a number of the vessels were towed up by steamers. It
was nearly four o'clock before we had all dropped anchor at
Sacrificios. Of vessels of foreign nations lying at anchor at Sacrificios,
there were an English man-of-war brig, a French ditto, and
a Spanish sloop of war. The officers of these vessels were
all on the poop, or quarter-deck, and their crews on the
rigging, aU apparently eyeing our proceedings with much
curiosity, as we came up and successively dropped anchor,
our nearest vessels about a cable's length astern of them,
7 .. -

146 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
The order of landing was to be as follows: General Worth
was to land, first vrith his division ; Gene;^al T-wiggs was to
land vrith the second division as soon as "the boats -returned
from landing aU of the first; General Scott with the third
division was not to land until the following morning. As our
regiment belonged to', the second division, we had an ex
cellent opportunity of witnessing the landing of the fir|t
party — an interesting -spectacle, as we fully expected they
wo-uld receive a -warm reception from the Mexicans, who we
imagined were stationed behind the sand-hills. A little
above high--water mark, on the coast, in the neighbourhood
of Vera Cruz, there is a series of sand-hills, formed by the
drifting of the fine sand by the violent north gales that Wow
during the winter months. These sand-hills are thirty or
forty feet to a hundred feet in height, the highest being ?in
the -ricinity of the city. It was on the highest of these that
our batteries were erected for its bombardment. Immedi
ately opposite where we were to land, they formed a sloping
acclivity, varyirig from thirty to fifty feet in height, covered
with short scrubby brushwood, and the prickly pear cactus.
"While the troops were getting into the landing-boats, an
operation which, though using all possible despatch, occupied
about half an hour, the gun-boats sailed as close as they
could to the shore, throwing ah occasional shell into the
brushwood, for the purpose of ascertaining ff the Mexicans
had any masked batteries erected, as we supposed. There
being no indication of any enemy in the vicinity, and the
boats being now filled, everything was ready' for landing the
first party.
I cannot say that I felt in the slightest degree inclined to
earn high fame or distinction, by any very decided demon
stration or extraordinary exhibition of perspnal prowess and
heroic valour on the present occasipn ; neither did I overhear

A MAGNIFICENT SPECTACLE. - 147
any very strong expressions of regret j^mongst my comrades,
at the circumstance of our regiment hot being the first party
who were landing. In a short convfersation which the sur
geon held -with the hospital attendant a few minutes before,
'we could overhear him ask if the - Unt and bandages, and
his case of instruments were close at ha^d and immediately
under his eye. An inquiry, just at that, j^articular juncture,
horribly suggestive of thick-coming. fancies,. and exceedingly
well calculated to cool down any daiigerous excess of enthu
siasm and martial ardour entertained' Jby those who over- '
heard it. Still, when. the boats, which contained fully two
thousand men, were drawn up in line and ready to start, so
strong was the feeling of' contagious sympathy elicited and
communicated by the sight, surrounded as it was by all the
glorious pomp and circumstance of war, that I believe there
were few of the army who did not envy their position, or
would not gladly have incurred the hazard of the enterprise,
for the shadow of glory which the distinction conferred.
The scene was certainly exciting and imposing : the military
bands of diff'erent regiments stationed oh the decks of the
steamers, transports, and men-of-war, played the national
ahs of " Yankee Doodle," " Hail Columbia," and the " Star
Spangled Banner." Ten thousand of our o-wn troops were
anxious and eager spectators,-'and the English, French, and
Spanish fleets, had each their representative, scanning our
operations with critical eye, and aU looking with cmiosity
to se'e the issue of the exploit.
At a signal from the vessel having General Scott on board,
the boats simultaneously gave way for shore, leaving a con
siderable space vacant in front of our men-of-war, who were
anchored next the shore, and had theh guns double shotted, '
ready to open upon the enemy, should they make their-
appearance. The gun-boats, meanwhile, continued to tack

148 AD-VENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN- MEXICO.
backwards and forwards, almost close to the shore, for the
same purpose. Under the circumstances, it was plain that
the Mexicans could not prevent us from landing, but, by
waiting until the first party were fahly on the sands, they
might assault them vnth- a very superior force, when our
gun-boats and men-of-war would be prevented fiom firing,
by the fear of injuring our own men. This was the event
we almost expected to -witness, and, as the boats neared the
shore, all straining their energies for the honour of being the
first to land, we watched the result with intense anxiety,
expecting each moment to see a body of Mexican cavalry
charge over the sand-hiUs, But no such event occurred ; on
coming to within about a hundred yards of the shore, the
boats grounded on a smaU sandbar. The men and officers
immediately leaped into the water, the former carrying theh
muskets on their shoulders, and holding their cartridge boxes
well up, as the water reached to their hips -whUe wading
ashore. As the boats successively arrived, the men were
formed on the beach ; the boats making all expedition back
to the vessels for more men. AU of the first party ha-ving
formed into line, several regimental colours were displayed,
and a charge made to the heights in front, but not a single
Mexican was to be seen. The American flag was immedi
ately planted amidst loud and prolonged cheers, which were
' enthusiastically echoed by the troops on board. All idea of
there being any fighting for that day, at least, was now at
in end, piquets were thro-wn out, and sentries posted on the
most advantageous points of the heights to guard against a
surprise ; the men began to make themselves at heme ; we
cculd observe fires were kindled, and camp ketties s'winging
on them, in less than an hour afl«r they had landed, and
before evening the beach had all the appearauQe cf a
camp.

ILL-TIMED TEETOTALISM. 149
The captain of the Porpoise brig, who seemed a jovial and
good-hearted fellow, proposing fo act hospitaUy to the sol
diers whom he had on board, ordered the steward to furnish
an aUowance of grog to each, the same as the sailors were
in the habit of receiving; but our -.officers put a stop to the
exercise of his generosity, for which extreme shabbiness they
had the contempt of the captain, and the discontented mm--
muTs of their own men. Their conduct, on this occasion,
was the more freely commented on and censured, as it was
weU known that they had all partaken of the captain's hospi
tality, without stint, themselve^ and it was utterly absurd
to imagine that a single aUowance of grog could injure any
person, however unused to spirits. We had been standing
on deck all day in the hot sun, vrith our muskets in our hands,
for there was neither an a-wning nor room to sit down any
where, on account of the crowded state of the deck. It would
probably be nine or ten o'clock that night before we got ashore,
when we should have to lie down and sleep on the beach
vrithout taking off our accoutrements, which we should have
to wear for days, perhaps for weeks to come. But all these
disagreeables, as they were the natural and unavoidable con
sequence of our position, were as dust in the balance, com
pared with the reflection,, that our officers grudged us the
slight degree of sympathetic consolation, iinplied in the good-
natured captain's offer of a glass of grog, "The dirty
miserly nagurs," audibly grumbled Micky Ryan, " faith,
an' six aUowances spme pf the custcmers have in their cwn
insides ; may the Lord look down on us, for we've happened '
badly on them for gintlemin ; shure there's not one of the
miserly crathurs has a heart as big as a grasshopper's."
About ten o'clock at night the boats came alongside to
take our regiment ashore, being the last of the second divi
sion. Two or three lanthorns were held over the ship's side.

160 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
and, the water being smooth, we were soon all in. We
were then rowed Ashore till, the boat striking the sand, we
had to jump in and wade up to the middle for about a hun
dred yards, as the others had done. This was a bad pre
paration for going to sleep on the beach, but, except when
there is a north gale blowing, which was not the case that
night, the night air is warm on the beach of Vera Cruz, ahd
we suffered little inconvenience from our wetting. We were
met by an officer oh shore, who said he woUld show us the
position our regiment was to occupy ; and, after being formed '
into companies, we were marched along the beach through
a number of rows of small pblong heaps, whioh, in the dim.
starlight, the sky being partially obscured by the drifting?
clouds, bore a, striking, and I could scarce help fancying,
ominous resemblance to an extensive and over-populous
graveyard. At length we arrived at a vacant spot in the
line which had been reserved for our occupation, and, having
been directed to pile arms, we were told we might lie down
when we pleased, but in the immediate -ricinity of our arms,
which each man was to be ready to grasp at a moment's
notice. This was the first time I had ever seen a biVou-ac,
and, certainly, it seemed a very primitive and cool way of
lodging ; ' as my comrade Nutt remarked, it did-'look rather
like taking actual possession of the soil. After enjoying a
comfortable smoke, we prepared for taking a. warrior's rest, by
wrapping om- martial cloaks around us, or pulUng the capes
of our great-coats over our heads, to exclude the sand and
night air ; we tumbled over on the beach, and were soon
several fathoms deep in the land of dreams.
But the Mexicans were not disposed to allow us the un
disturbed possession of our first night's quarters, indifferent
though they were, vrithout giving an intimation, at least, of
their sentiments towards us. It was between twelve and

A NIGHT ALARM. 151
one o'clock, and only about an hour after we had fallen
asleep, that we were roused by the repprt pf musketry, and
found the whole camp a scene of the utmost confusion and
commotion. A number of the men, o-wing to the fatigue
of the pre'rious day, and having slept little the previous
night, were so sound asleep, that it was only by violently
shaking or kicking them, that they could be roused. At
last they were all got up and formed into line, when we
were directed to examine the priming of pur muskets, and
see if they were ready for immediate use. In the meantime
the balls fiew over our heads, with their peculiar metaUic
ringing sort of whistle, in quick succession ; and, thpiigh
high enough fortunately to do little damage, yet quite |near
enough to make nervous persons feel rather uncomfortable.
The firing continued for -about ten minutes, in as quick a
succession of reports as would be made by the irregular ffle-
firing of two or three hundred men ; and, if it had been well
directed, as it easily might have been, by an enemy well
acquainted -with the surrounding country, and the position
we occupied, we might have paid dear for our "lodgings
upon the cold ground." A few rounds from a division of
infantry ordered out for the purpose, having caused these
night disturbers to scamper, ' we soon piled arms, and in
a few minutes were again fast asleep ; and, thanks to the
vigilance of our out-lying piquets, who gave and received a
dropping fire until near morning, we enjoyed our slumbers
unmolested during the remainder of the night. Next morn
ing, we learned that the firing of the previous night had
proceeded from a body of lancers from the city, who had
been quickly driven in by a regiment of General Worth's
division. The casualties of the night were five or six wound
ed, one or two of whom were, report said, dangerously hurt ;
but there had beeh none killed. - >

CHAPTER xm.
General Soott— The Shell — Naval sporting — Investment of Vera
Cruz — Vergara— Spoiling the knapsacks.
Early next moming, the third division,' with the Com
mander-in-Chief, General Scott, landed ; and our army hav
ing been formed into column, we moved to a position a mUe
or tvfo nearer the town, and covered from observation by the
sand-hills. Here we bivouacked in the vicinity of a smaU
stream — General Scott and his staff had tents pitched — the
remainder, officers as well as men, crept under the shade of
the bushes to screen themselves frpm the sccrching rays of
the sun, or sticking stout branches upright inthe groimd,
cut a quantity of leafy tvrigs to serve as a roof, and thus
made a tolerable sort of a bower. In the meantime, one of
our light batteries was out skirmishing vrith the enemy's
outposts, which offering shght resistance, were successively
driven in -with little difficulty. From the landing of siege
material and heavy ordnance, which had busily commenced,
we riow perceived that the intention of General Scott was to
bombard the city. '
A great deal of virtuous indignation has been exhibited
by the English press on the subject of the bombardment of
Vera Cruz, which it has generally stigmatized as a barbarous
slaughter of women and children, having no parallel in
modern history. It was asserted that WeUington, or any of
his generals, had never bombarded an open city, and a great
deal more of a similar tendency, all calculated to show that

A SLANDER REFUTED. ^^ - '153.
war is caiTied on in a highly humane^^^wiiffied mode by
the enlightened nations of Europe ; and thaf^e -Americans,
and General Scott in particular, had behaved in a very bar
barous manner. Now all that sort of twaddle seems exces
sively weak to any one 'at 'all acquainted with . the chcum-
stances ; the truth being notorious that General Scott,
besides being one of the most skUful and scientific generals
of modern times, is also one of the most humane men in the
world. For my part, I have not the sUghtest doubt that his
character, in respect of the noblest attributes of humanity,
may bear triumphant comparison with that of the most
praisewPrthy and philanthropic members of any society,
order, pr, profession, in the world. The real fact being, that
his humanity, and a desire to spare a needless effusion of
blood, caused him to adopt the method he took for the
reduction of Vera Cruz ; being anxious to avoid a repeti
tion of the horrible and savagely barbarous scenes consequent
on the storming of a city, ofwhich the history of the Peninsu
lar war may furnish a few examples illustrative of the humane
practices of European armies. To understand this apparent
paradox, one should knpw a-few of the facts of the case. In
the first place. Vera Cruz, so far from being an open city, is
very well fortified, having a wall and ditch all round it, and
a series of half-moon batteries, not deficient in the requisite
ordnance to make a stout resistance. These batteries sweep
a perfectly level plain, extending from half a mile to a mile
between the walls and the sand-hills, and would have proved
very destructive to an assaulting party. Now, if tlfe inha
bitants, receiving, as they did, two or three weeks' previous
notice to quit, preferred remaining in the city. General Scott
having plainly signified that, for certain economical reasons,
he declined taking their batteries with the bayonet, and
iutended to try a game at the long bowls, which the Mexi-
7*

1„A **
154 ADVENT®RES OF A SPLDIER IN MEXICO.
i %. - .
cans are so fond of themselves — if, being duly warned, they
chose to remain and be killed, I do not see how General
Scott should be blamed for the result. But let us suppose
that, with the intention of sparing the li'ves of the inhabitants,
by the very disinterested sacrifice of the lives of a few of the
troops under his command, he had decided on caxrjring the
place by assault, which would pi-obably have cost the assault
ing force from 1,000 to 1,500 men; dpes any person, in the
possession of sound inteUect, imagine that, in the latter event.
General Scott could have prevented scenes of 'plunder, the
resistance of inhabitants, and the commission of deeds of
crime and horror, fearfiil to contemplate ? Those who think
that troops, even of well-disciplined armies, (a character I
would by no means claim for the army under General Scott),
can be held in subordinate check by any amount of exertion
on the part of their officers, on an occasion of the above
nature, are not Ukely, I apprehend, to form a correct idea
on the subject. But tb any impartial person, taking an
unprejudiced -riew of the case, I think it vrill appear tolerably
obvious, that the method adopted by General Scott was the
most humane even for the inhabitants, - '
A few days after landing, the various divisions were
ordered to the'positions which they were to occupy during
the progress of the siege. The division to which I belonged,
that of General Tvriggs, was ordered to Vergara, a smaU
-riUage close to the sea-beach, and on the north-west side of
the city, from which it was distant about four mUes, In
crossing a high sand-hill behind the city, our men being
exposed to the -riew of one of their batteries, they kept up an
incessant fire of round shot and shell while our division
passed, which, being in file, occupied a cpnsiderable time^
but they showed no gTeat proficiency in gunnery on this
occasion, a"s very few of their shot took effect. It was here

THE PASSAGE OF A SHELL. 165
that I heard, for the first time, the singular and diabolicaUy-
horrific sound which a large shell makes when passing
within a short distance ; I don't mean when it explodes (as
that exactly resembles the noise made in firing a gun), but
when it pa-sses within a few, or it may be fifty or a hundred
yards-; the noise seeming equaUy loud and discordant in
either case. I recollect a reply of honefet Mick Ryan on
being asked if he had eyer heard a sound like that before.
" No," said Mick, " one can both hear and feel' that sound —
by the Eternal, I felt it aU over." There is no earthly sound
bearing the slightest resemblance to its monstrous dissonance ;
the angriest shriek of the railway whistle, or the most
emphatic demonstr'ation of an asthmatic engine at the start
ing of a train, would seem like a strain of heavenly melody
by comparison. Perhaps Milton's description of the harsh,
thunder-grating of the hinges of the infernal gates, approach
es to a faint realization of the indescribable sound, which
bears a more intimate relatipn to the sublime than fhe
beautiful. However, the Mexicans did very small damage
by their practice ; the only result was to make our meri fall
flat on the sand ; which they did every time a shell came,
and which I have no doubt saved a few limbs from damage.
It was amusing, even amidst the danger from these horrid
missiles, tc see an officer, after getting up and anathematiz
ing his men emphaticaUy for lying down on the sand, drop
as suddenly and as flat as any of them, when the next shell
came whizzin^pther close to him. The only victim to this
ball-practice j^the Mexicans in our regiment was a little
drummer-boy, about thirteen years of age, named Rome,
who had one of his arms shot off by the fragment of an
exploding shell. He was one of the most quiet and obliging
boys in the regiment, and we were aU very sorry for him ;
many ofthe men saying if it had been suoh -^ a boy (naming

166 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
one of the others), it would have been no great matter, but
it was a pity for poor Uttie Rome. The little feUow cried
very bitterly at the time, but the surgeon' having carefully
amputated it, he soon recovered, and on our regiment
returning to New York in August, 1849, he came over to
Governor's. Island to see. us.. He was then living -with a
gentleman in New York, who employed him to carry mes
sages and do Ught work fpr him. A captain of a volunteer
regiment had his head taken off by a cannon-baU the same
afternoon; but considering the immense amount of theh
practice, and tho quantity of ammunition fired by their
various batteries, the smallness of cm- loss in kiUed and
wounded is astonishing : the total American loss including
those kUled and wounded in .sldrmishes iri the vicinity ofthe
city, during the whole siege, only amounted to seventeen
killed and fifty-severi 'wounded, -
We bivouacked near the edge of a thick chaparral, about
four or five miles from Vergara, the position cm- divisipn was
to occupy ; but which, for some reason or other, we did not
move to for the next three days. We were amused vrith a
vplunteer whpm we met here, coming out of the chaparral
loaded with two muskets and a turkey. He had foUowed
the turkey, a tame one, into the chaparral, and having
strayed too far off the road, he was seen and fired at by a
Mexican piquet — they exchanged a few shots, he said, when
he killed the yellow beggar by shooting him. through the
body. He had brought the Mexican's musket as well as the -
turkey, a fine fat one, and decidedly the mpst valuable prize
in general estimation ; he spoke very cc^^ptuously of the
Mexican's skiU in the use of fire-arms, none- of his shots
having come vrithin yards of him. On quitting us, he added,
that there were plenty more in the chaparral, and he guessed
he would shoot another before sun-down ; whether he meant

DESULTORY SKIRMISHES. lo7
tm-key or Mexican was difficult to cohiprehend, but, as he
seemed to enjoy the sport of shooting the one biped about as
much as the other, I have no doubt he considered them
both equally fair game. As usual, we were aroused during
the night by the firing of musketry, and fell in under arms
until the alarm was discovered to be false. These nocturnal
alarms were very annoying for the first week or so after
landing, as we never passed a night without being roused
from our sleep, and ordered to faU in under arms, and this
too, twice or thrice during the course of the night sometimes.
At last, as they were found, except in one or t-^feo -lin^ances,
to be caused by the blundering of sentries, a number of
whom were Germans, and not sufficiently acquainted with
the English language to clearly Comprehend their orders,
our officers ceased to mind these alarms ; and when wakened
by the report of a few muskets we only turned over to sleep
again, grumbling a curse on the stupidity originating the
disturbance. Bodies of thfe enemy, principally lancers, were
kno-wn to be in the vicinity ; but, ovring to the nature of the
country round Vera Cruz, which is covered -with chaparral,
no body of the enemy could approach our Unes at night by
any other mode than the open road. These keys of the
position were well watched by our piquets, and being defend
ed by a few field-pieces, there was little danger to be
apprehended from an enemy like the one we had to contend
with, A few desultory skirmishes took place between part
of General Worth's division, consisting of volunteers, and
Colonel Harney's dragoons, and a body of Mexican lancers ;
but the Mexicans fought very shy on these occasions, and
soon gave up the idea of being able to effect anythingiike-A
bold stroke in favour of the besieged. For two or three
days after moring fi-om where we landed, all our provisions
had to be carried from the beach, a distance of three or four

168 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
miles through heavy sands, and under a scorching sun ; and
as the jnen who carried them, had to take their arms at the
same time, to-^ defend themselves, in case of an attack, the
duty was excessively fatiguing. Several of- our men who
died shortly after, assigned as the cause of their illness, the
over-exertion they had used when on these harassing fatigue
duties. Our supply of water whUe lying here was scanty and bad,
being only procurable by digging holes in the sand to the
depth of four or five feet, and then waiting imtU the muddy-
looking fluid oozed up-to a sufficient depth tp\enable us to
dip it with the tin-cups which we carried. We were all very
glad, -therefore, when we moved to Vergara, as we were told
that there, at least, we should have plenty of good -water.
Our road at first wound through chaparral and tangled
thickets of cacti and other war-like vegetables of the chevaux
de frise order, along the edge of a marsh, where we halted
in order to drink and fill our canfeens with the -water which
it contained.. As we had all been suffering considerably for
the pre'rious two days from the efl'ects of thirst, few were in
clined to criticise too nicely the quality of this water, which,
though not exactly transparent, yet to pbserve the apparerit
gusto with which almost all quaffed repeated draughts of it,
one might have fancied it to be exceedingly like nectar, inde
scribably sweet. " Hunger is a good sauce," says the pro
verb, and thirst is equaUy remarkable as a filter. We had a
Mexican guide -with us who was well acquainted with the
country in the environs of the city, and who rode beside
General Twiggs. In all our marches in Mexico, the guide
always rode along with the commander of the di-rision, act
ing as interpreter and guide both, upon occasion. When we.
approached within two miles of Vergara, our iroad led
through a rich and fertile soil, partially cultivated, ^nd con-

THE BEAUTIES OF A CHAPARRAL. 159
taining a number of very large and venerable-looking trees.
We also passed aeveral ranchos, but all deserted by their own
ers, the poor creatures having been the first to suffer from our
invasion. We soon reached Vergara, a few straggling, huts
on a road leading do-wn to the beach. A beautiful clear stream
emptied its waters into the sea close to the -riUage, so clear
that every motion of the small flsh playing in its pellucid pools,
was as distinctiy visible as those of the unfortunate goldfish
one sometimes observes pensively circumgyrating in the inte
rior of its enchanted globular ball in the shop-vrindow. The
banks of the stream ¦were shaded for miles by magnificent
trees, and in tha adjacent thickets a variety of wild fruits
were found gro^wing ; but the only ones I found ripe were
lemons and limes, of which I plucked quantities ' to squeeze
in water, an acidulous drink being exceedingly refreshing
with the thermometer upwards of ninety. "When retuming
in July of the following year, 1 found some delicious guavas
and sour sops in these thickets. The tipb.er and the fertil
ity of the soil are unusual features in the face of the country
in the vicinity of Vera Cruz ; for a considerable di,stance
round which sandy hUlocks and swampy morasses, varied by
a section of dense chaparral, are the general rule. The
chaparral, "or natural thicket, of Mexico, is totaUy unlike
any other thicket I have ever seen — a great portion of it
being completely impenetrable. All the shrubs and trees of
the dense chaparral bear clusters of thbrns, sharp as the
stings of bees, and as stubborn as bayonets. The various
tribes of the cactus nation, with their innumerable needles —
trifles in comparison to the thorns before mentipned — ffil up
the intervals between the thprn-bearing trees, rendering the
whole a complete series of impregnable natural defences.
The foregoing description applies to thick or dense chapar
ral, which is utterly impassable — of course, there are por-

160 AnVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
tions ofit mpre ppen, where thprny shrubs are less frequent, -
and which may be traversed with ease.
We founda waggon loaded with barrels of Madeira wine
in the viUage — it had just arrived from Jalapa, and was des
tined for the garrison at Vera Cruz. General Twiggs ordered
the -wine to be distributed amongst the men, and we each
received a small measure containing about haff-a-pint.
General Twiggs and his officers found good quarters in the
huts of the vUlage^the different regiments bivouacking in
the -ricinity. In the evening a report was current that a
body of lancers meant to attack us during the night, and the
piquets had orders to be on the alert. The road, at the dis
tance of about a mile from our encampment,' was defended
by two field-pieces, and a few trees were felled and laid
across the road, but the lancers decUned making their appear
ance, ,«
Next day a schobner arrived loaded 'with provisions,
sa'ringthe men a very laborious task of carrying them round
from the beach. StUl the duties of -guards, piquets, and
fatigue parties, harassed the men greatly ; and many of
them were soon prostrated -by disease — especially 'with that
scourge of armies on a campaign, diarrhoea. About a week
after our arrival, we also got tents pitched — our regimental
baggage having been brought round from Sacrificios by
Ught sailing vessels. Our knapsacks also arrived at the same
time ; but the plight in 'which we received them, was the
cause of loud and general complaint ; many of them being
rifled of their most valuable contents, and some completely
gutted; while but a small number had escaped untouched.
They had been left on the beach, at the place where we had
landed, for the prerious eight or ten days, during which time
they had been in charge of different hordes of voluriteers,
who, as might have been expected, had made rather too free

TIIE RIFLING OF Tlffi KNAPSACKS. 161
with their cpntehts. But there was no help for it ; and the
bursting choler of many found vent in a storm of impreca
tions and maledictions, while the more ,cool and reflective
only hoped they would have an opportunity of serving out a
volunteer before the end of the campaign.

CHAPTER XIV.
A prophecy fulfiUedr-The bombardment — ^Visit to Vera Cruz.
A SINGULAR coincidence 'with the prediction of the insane
sailor who came to Tampico with us in the John Potter, oc
curred while we lay at Vergara. This was the total loss of
that brig, which, with two schooners sent round from Sacri
ficios with stores and pro^risions, was driven ashore by one
of those violent north g-ales whioh blow so frequently on this
coast during the winter. There being no practicable'means
of getting them off, without incurring more expense than
they were worth, they vvere left tp their fate ; and when we
returned in the ^summer of the following year, their upright
timbers protruded fi-om the sand, where they lay firmly im
bedded. Several of our men considered the occun-ence
ocular demonstration of the existence of witchcraft, or some
species of demonology, and some whom the march of intel
lect had rendered .sceptical on these points had their faith in
these ancient doctrines revived and confirmed.
The preparations for the bombardment of the city mean
while went on -vigorously, but many of the men appeared to
think that General Scott was only losing time, and that a
rush on the city at all points, to carry it by a coup de main,
would be the only proper and effectual plan of proceeding.
General Twiggs himself had been heard tc express his disap
proval of losing so much time, after the following manner,
" Ugh ! my boys 'U have to take it yet vrith their bayonets."
A.S a short description of General T-wiggs may not be alto-

A PERSONAL SKETCH, 163
gether uninteresting, I -will give it as it struck me at the
time. In height the General is about five feet ten inches,
very broad shouldered and bull-necked, and is altogether a
very stout and robust-looking man, though verging on sixty
years of age. His face is large and, red, -with blue eyes, and
rather coarse and hea-py-looking features ; an exuberant mass
of tow-white hair, 'with long beard, and whiskers of the same
colour, give him a grtiff appearance, quite in keeping with
his character, in which the disagreeable and the unprepos
sessing are the preponderating qualities. But he was a gi-eat
favourite amongst the men, who admired him principally, I
believe, for his brusquerie and coarseness of manner, and a
singular habit he had of swearing most vehemently, and fly
ing into a passion on the most trifling occasions. Put though
General Twiggs had the most republican contempt for eti
quette, and even the common courtesies of ci-rilized life, in
his intercourse with others, he was furious if a soldier hap
pened to omit paying him the customary mUitary salute in
passing. The erection of the batteries on the sand hills, and the
conveyance of so much hea-vy ammunition to places conve
nient, w'as a very laborious task for our army in such a warm
and exhausting climate. But all the troops took their share
of the duty, each regiment working so many hours in suc
cession, under its officers. At last, by dint of prodigious and
untiring exertion, parties of our men having been employed
in working day and night ever since our landing, on the
22nd of March, all being ready for operations, tbe town was
formally summoned, and the govemor having refused to sur
render, the work of havoc and destruction was ordered to be
commenced. For three successive days and nights, with
short periods of intermission, the thundei-s of our guns and
mortars, and the enemy's batteries in the city, were most

164 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
deafening and incessant. On a height near our camp at
Vergara, a number of our men frequently stood watching
¦ the shells at night ; their appearance resembled that of the
meteors called shooting or. falling stars ; and they were dis
tinctly -risible fr-om the time when they began to ascend in
their circling course until they disappeared ambng the roofs
of the buildings. At length, on the 26th, after shot and
shell to the number of seven thousand of those destructive
missiles had been poured into the unfortunate city, they dis
played a white flag, and after a day or two spent in nego
tiating, the foUo-wing terms were finally agreed on. -The town
and castle were to be surrendered on the 29th, the garrison
to march out of the central city gate and lay do-wn theh
arms, and to be furnished with four days' provisions. The
officers to be aUowed to retain their arms, and to have five
days to return to their native homes ; all public property and
materiel of war to belong to the American forces, the sick
and wounded to be allowed to remain in the city, and no
private property or building to be taken possession of by the
Americans. On the 29th, the Mexicans, amounting to be
tween four and five thousand, marehed out of the city, and
deposited their arms in front of a strong body of the Ame
rican army drawn up to receive them. A brigade under
General Quitirian marched in and occupied the garrisons
forthwith, and the American flag floated over San Juan
d'Ulloa and the city "of Vera Cruz.
Having procured a written peririission fi-om the officer
commanding our regiment, a few days after our tropps bad-
taken possession of the city, I visited it in company with
Sergeants Lear aiUd Beebe, of ours ; being curious to observe
the effects of the bombardment, and also to gratify our
curiosity vrith a view of the interior of. a city which at a
' short distance presents a very grand and imposing appear-

EFFECTS OF THE OMBARDMENT. 165
ance. The city of Vera Cruz is very well buUt, the houses
being of stone, and the waUs of the most substantial thick
ness, an excellent thing in a warm climate. The streets are
-wide and well paved, and its general appearance is that of a
clean, neat, and compactly buUt city. It contains a number
of very handsome churches, the- painted and gilt domes of
which give a highly imposing effect to the -riew of it frpm a
. shprt distance. The interiors of several of these churches
which we visited were highly ornamented with shrines, and
all the profusion of car-ring, gilding, and painting, usual in
these places ; the most of it tawdry and vulgar-looking I
imagined. One of the churches which ~we entered near the
centre of the city, the most richly decorated we have seen,
having a fine marble-paved floor, a magnificent dome, and
some very good pictures, had been converted into an hospital
for the wounded, and contained upwards of a hundred male
patients at the time we were in it. Several shells had fallen
through the dome, cn the marble floor, the fragments of
which had made sad mutilations of the pictures and effigies
of the saints and -rirgins of the various shrines round the
building. And what seemed to us heretics far more pitiable,
though doubtless of minor importance in the eyes of a true
Catholic, one of these shells had killed and wounded about
twenty of the unfortunate inhabitants who had fled to its
-shelter as a sanctuary of safety .during the bombardment.
The whole of the south-west side of-the city, which, lying
nearest our batteries, was most exposed to the, storm of
destructive missiles, was a scene of desolation calculated to
make the most strenuous advocates of physical force pause
and refiect. For my OFwn part, while ready to admit the
whole weight and force of such powerful arguments, I felt
strongly inclined to doubt the justice or propriety of ha'ring
recourse to them. Whole streets were crumbled to ruins,

166 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
and they told us the killed and wounded inhabitants amounted
to between five and six hundred, while the soldiers who had
been employed at their batteries during the whole time of
the bombardment had as many more ; the enthe killed and
wounded being over a thousand.

CHAPTER XV.
Sickness — ^Marehon Jalapa — ^Position of the enemy — Order to at
tack — ^The counter-order and ita effect.
A GREAT deal of sickness prevailing among the troops.
General Scott wisely determined to lose no time in removing
the main body to Jalapa, where it was said to be his inten
tion to wait for further reinforcements from the States.
General Twiggs with his di-rision was to march on the 7th
of April, the other two di-risions following in succession. As
an engagement with the enemy was anticipated before we
reached Jalapa, and as the means of transport were too
limited to admit of our carrying much of our baggage along
with us, all the heaviest of it, together with our tents, was
dhected to be packed up and left in the quartermaster's
stores at Vera Cruz. A great number of sick were left
behind, few of whom ever joined again, as most of the poor
feUows soon fell -rictims to the unwholesome climate and the
careless treatment soldiers receive in over-crowded hospitals
during a campaign. ' Among those early victims for whom
we were especially sorry, were Davies and Bob Madden,
formerly mentioned, who were left behind -with several more
of our company, ^nd of whose deaths we received intimation
shortly after we arrived at Jalapa.
On the morning of the 7th, about seven o'clock, our divi
sion, consisting of about 3000 infaritry, a light battery, con
sisting of two six-pounder field pieces and two twelve-
pounder howitzers, and a smaU body of cavalry, proceeded

168 ADVENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
on our march to Jalapa, For the first six or seven miles our
progress was very, slow and painful, the road being a loose
sand, in which we sank to the ankles at every step, A great
many of the men, myself among the number, were iU with
diarrhoea ; but being of opinion that small chance of renewed
health awaited those who stayed behind in the hospitals at
Vera Cruz, we were all glad to get away from it ; trusting
for a renewal of our exhausted ¦rigour to the purer air of the
mountains, which a few days' march would enable us to
breathe. After marching about three mUes, we halted at a
bridge thrown over a small stream which crossed the road,
and many of the men taking off their knapsacks, began to
select those articles which they resolved to carry, thro^wing
the remainder away. Numbers of them reserved ohly a
great-coat or blanket, deliberately sacrificing the rest of their
effects, and before we reached Santa Fe, a small village
about eight miles from Vergara, the road was strewn -with
articles of clothing thrown away by the men.
We halted in the village of Santa Fe, for a short time,
and General T-wiggs and the officers of his staff entered a
house where they sat down to rest, sheltered from the scorch
ing heat of the sun. Some of the men in the meantime had
discovered an apartment at the other end of the building,
containing some barrels of aquadiente, or Mexican brandy,
and an entrance haring been effected, a considerable portion
of the Uquor had found its way into the men's canteens, be
fore a knowledge of their proceedings had been communi
cated by the Mexican to the General. The anger of Gene
ral Twiggs as he rushed to the scene, and the celerity -with
which the marauders " vamosed the ranche,^' as they heard
the ominous alarm of " here's old Davy," transcend descrip
tion. Two or three of the unlucky -wights, however, he met
on the threshold of the door, on their way out; these he

THE MARCH. 169
seized by the collar and swung round till he had an oppor
tunity of administering a sound kick to their posteriors.
None pf them, hpwever, stayed tp rempnstrate on these
rather unpleasant demonstrations of the old Geheral's Ipve pf
justice, being pnly too happy to get out ofthat fix so easily,
and the bugle having been ordered to sound " The Assembly,"
we were formed into our ranks, and the march was imme
diately resumed.
General Twiggs, who rode at the head of the division,
committed a great error in permitting the men in front to
walk too quick on this day's march. The consequence of
this was that a great many of-the men being weak from tho
effects of diarrhoea could not keep up, and slipped off the
road into the thickets, which after leaving Santa Fe began
to offer an. inviting shade, and in which many of them lay
down and deliberately resolved on staying behind the division.
When we reached the place where we were to encamp for
the night, a small stream about five miles fi-om Santa Fe,
the rear of the column was several miles behind, the men
straggling along the road at their own discretion ; and when
the rolls were called at sunset, about a third ofthe men were
absent, not having come up. We bivouacked under the
trees by the roadside, the grass was deliciously soft and elas
tic, and, after a supper of coffee, biscuit, and pork, Nutt
made us some aquadiente punch, after quaffing a bumper or
two of whioh, we lay dovm, and slept very comfortably until
roused by the reveille next moming about four o'clock.
We had warm coffee before starting in the morning, our
cooks, who had no other duties to perform on a march, ex
cept cooking, always getting up sufficiently early to have
coffee ready before the hour of starting. On the rolls being
called -this morning, there were between three and four hun
dred men still absent, according to current report. Although
8

170 AUVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
there was no great danger for these men, as they would go
in small bodies, for mutual protectioh',and each man, besides
being well armed, had three days' provisions in his ha'vresac;
yet cne could scarcely help thinking that it was a strangely
irregular system of marching, which, carried on to much
greater extent, would have a fatally destructive effect on the
discipline of an army,' We marched considerably slower tp-
day, resting more frequently, and taking care that none of
the men straggled to the rear. Our road to-day was over a
level tract of country, containing some good rich soil, and for
a distance, of eight or ten miles we had a wood of veiy fine
looking timber on each side of the road. Fantastic drape
ries and festoons of flowing creepers and vines, hung from
the -branches, and numerous beautifiil parasitic plants climbed
the trunks of trees in these woods. Many of the trees also
bore magnificent flowering blossoms, and the whole air was
redolent of their rich perfume, I was almost sorry when we
emergbd into the Ught and air of the open countiy again,
though knowing it to be infinitely mpre healthy than the
heavily-loaded and poisonous atmosphere of these delightful
shades, in which, on account of their beauty, I could have
Ungered a littleJpnger with pleasure.
We arrived at one o'clock, and- bivouacked that night at a
small stream, which had the appearance, from its broad peb
bly channel, and a number of deep pools which it contained,
of a river of considerable size at certain periods of the year.
My comrade Nutt, and I, bathed in one of these pools, and
found ourselves considerably refreshed by the operation. One
of the greatest luxuries which I ever enjoyed, is bathing in
a clear river after a hot and dusty day's march. On these
occasions, of course one should not go in untU rested and
ceded a little, nor stay, too long in, especially if the water is
cold ; but with the precautions which comnion sense may

FIRST SIGHT OF THE NATIONAL BRIDGE. ]7l
teach one, besides being a luxury cf the highest order, I have
always found it a most valuable and powerful auxiliary to
health. Some of the men who had faUen behind came up -with us
this evening. They said the rest of the stragglers had de
termined not to come up vrith the dirision for a few days.
They had shot some cattle, and were plundering the houses
of those who sold aquadiente of that article, as they came
along ; and upon the whole they seemed to be taking pretty
good care of themselves ; at all events these demonstrations
seemed tolerably vigorous for sick and delicate persons una
ble CO keep up -with the division. Most of them came up
with General Pattefson's division, which was only one day's
march behind us, and, except a few who were kUled by the
peasantry, they had all joined before the battle of Cerro
Gordo. We commenced the next day's march about an hour before
sunrise, as we wished to have tho most of it over before the
extreme heat of noon. The road was up hill, rocky, and very
bad travelUng for man or beast ; it also lay through a barren
tract of country, and water was not to be procured. Those
men who had neglected to ffil their canteens vrith water be
fore starting, found great difflculty in procuring a drink when
thirsty to-day ; as the others who had been more provident,
considered it sufficient hardship" to carry enough for them
selves. At length, about 1 1 o'clock, on winding down a steep
hUl, we came in sight of the Puente Nacional (National
Bridge), This was the first scene since we had entered Mex
ico, that by its picturesque beauty called forth a spontaneous
burst of admiration. ".Scotland or d  n me," was the ex
clamation of Jock "Whitelaw, a Glasgow callant, as the scene
opened on his delighted vision. The precipitous banks of
the river, rocky, and ornamented with tufts of flowering

172 ADVENTURES PF ,A SPLDIER IN MEXICO.
shrubs, shooting out from its fissures, and suggestive of broom
and breckan, blue bells and heather, render the scene exceed
ingly like the section of a- Scotch river glen. Indeed, I
believe the most unimaginative Scotchman 'will hardly pass
the National Bridge vrithout feeling his native land suggested
to memory by the similar characteristics of the scenery. The
bridge is" a very substantial and magnificent-looking struc
ture, built of stone arches through which rushes the clear
and rapid stream over a fine pebbly channel. We halted
here a considerable time, fpr the purppse -of aUovring the men
to refresh themselves with the delicious sparkling water of
the Rio Antiqua (Old River). We then marched througb
a village of huts which stood on each side of the road at the
end of the bridge, the walls of which were canes, and wooden
poles, made into a sort of hurdles, and the roofs thatched
with palm leaves. The village was shaded by some very fine
mimosas, and on a plain at the end of it we encamped for
the night. The weather had been fine since we left Vera
Cruz, and we had suffered no inconvenience from sleeping on
the grass ; my health had also materially improved, a result
I had anticipated from the exercise of marching, which had
always agreed with me. In the afternoon, my comrade Nutt
and myself went down to the river and bathed, after which
we washed our shirts and stpckings, which soon dried in the
hot sunshine. We remarked, while going thrpugh the vil
lage, that all the huts except two or three containing a few
old women and , children, were empty and deserted. This
was considered a proof that a force was coUected at some
point farther on the road, and between us and Jalapa.
We commenced our march before sunrise next morning as
usual, and after a fatiguing march over a tolerably good
road, but mostly up hUl, and with thick woods on each side
of it, which obscured the view and prevented the circulation

THE POSITION OF THE ENEMY. 173
pf air, we arrived abput twelve o'clock at Plan del Bio (The
River of the Plain), At the entrance to the village, we
crossed a fine bridge of hewn stone, thrown over a broad
and rapid, but shallow stream, with broken and precipitous
banks, covered vrith a rich and luxuriant vegetation. Tho
village, a wretched collection of huts, of similar construction
to those at the National Bridge, was also deserted by ita
inhabitants, A party of lancers who were there when our
advance guard, composed of a troop of dragoons, arrived,
were very near being surprised and made prisoners. They
had barely time to ride off pursued by our dragoons, with
whom they exchanged a few shots, but ovring to their horses
being fresh, whUe our men's were tired with a long march,
they soon increased the distance between them. These were
an advanced piquet of the enemy, and we now knew that
we were apprpaching close to their position. We encamped
at the end of the -riUage, and in the evening strong piquets
were posted on the road in the direction of the enemy, ascer
tained to be pnly a few iniles frpm Plan del Rip on the high
way to Jalapa, which ascended a steep hUl near the bottom
of which we were en'camped.
Our reconnoitring parties soon discovered that the enemy,
who were in strong force, we're in a positiPn exceedingly well
fortified, both by nature and art, to oppose our hitherto tri
umphant progress. On the highway to Jalapa, abbut four
miles from Plan del Rio, the road enters a' gorge between
two heights, whioh the enemy had strongly fortified. About
three quarters of a mUe further, on the right-hand side of the
road, rises the steep conical hUl of Cerro Gordo, the key to
the seemingly impregnable pass ; as, iri the event of our suc
ceeding in forcing the other batteries, it, from its position and
elevation, commanded both them and the intermediate road.
This hiU of Cerrp Gprdp, the Mexicans had also strongly

174 , ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
fortified, and with the redoubtable Santa Anna commanding
in person, and a force supposed to be at least fourteen or
fifteen thousand strong, we aU looked for some rather serious
work, before luxuriating on the delicious fruits of Jalapa.
To say that I felt no apprehension of personal danger at the
prospect of an engagement likely to prove a severe one,
would be ridiculous affectation ; as I believe no man, possess
ing a particle of reflection, ever contemplated a simUar posi
tion vrith perfect indifference. Be that, however, as it may,
it seemed sufficiently e-rident to me on the present occasion,
as well as on subsequent ones of a similar kind, that on the
night before the expected engagement the camp wore an ah
of stillness unusual at other times, the men generSUy appear
ing more thoughtful, and conversing less, and in more sub
dued tones than usual.
On the evening of the 13th, General T-wiggs, who, during
the 'sickness of General Patterson, commanded the -forces at
Plan del Rio, after having spent two days in reconnoitring,
. gave the order for an attack on the enemy's batteries, which
we were to take at the point of the bayonet by assault, early
next morning; The bugle ha'ring sounded for the troops to
assemble a little before sunset, the captains of companies
addressed their men, informing them of the General's inten
tion, and explaining as much of the plan of the meditated
attack as would tend to facilitate its execution, v They con
cluded with a hope that all would do their duty gaUantly,
and required us to give thijee cheers, an invitation whioh
was very faintly responded to. The want of enthusiasm dis
played by the men, arose, I am persuaded, from a want of
confidence in the judgment of General Twiggs, and not
from any deficiency of the necessary pluck required for the
occasion. But that General, though always admitted to be
a brave old cavalry officer, was considered, from his peculiar

THE COUNTERMAND. l75
temperament, and previous school of education and disci
pline, to be totally incapable of successfiUly directing an
operation of such magnitude as the present, which any per
son might easUy see required both military talent and skill.
Perfectly aware of the enemy's overwhelming force, and the
strong nature of his position, and also of the inconsiderate
rashness of General Twiggs and his advisers, we felt that we
were in danger of a defeat, or a victory purchased by a lavish
and useless expenditure of life. And as we knew that General
Scott vrith a' di-rision. of the army was only two days in rear,
no one could perceive the least necessity for either of these
alternatives ; from either of them, however, we were fortu
nately saved.
It coming to the ears of General PattersPn that an attack
was ordered next moming, he immediately resumed the
command of the troops by having his name erased from the
sick returns. He then issued an order countermanding that
of General Twiggs, and stating that all active operations
against the enemy's position were suspended until the arri
val of General Scott This turn of affairs gave universal
satisfaction, as General Scott deserved and possessed the
confidence of both officers and men in the highest degree.
We had received a pint of fiour each man for our next day's
bread, the biscuit having all been consumed which we had
brought with us ; and it was considered better to make cakes
and toast them on the ashes, than to go without bread all
next day. When the news of General Patterson's order
came as late,as 11 o'clock at night, various groups of anxious-
looking faces might be seen by the flickering light of the
bivouac fire, gloomily watching their unleavened cakes, and
thinking bitterly of the morrow. The announcement pro
duced one of the most sudden illuminations of the human
ooun+enance divine among these groups, which I ever recol-

176 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
lect to have seen ; the cakes were either abandoned, or
carried away half baked, to be finished at some other oppor
tunity, and all retired to sleep, carrying the news to their
dreaming comrades, that the attack was deferred until Scott
came up.

CHAPTER XVL
Arrival of General Scott — ^Ascent of the ravine — The oharge — ^The
loan of a pipe — Colonel Harney — General Pillow — Bill Crawford —
Victory.
On the 14th about noon, greatly to the satisfaction of us all.
General Scott arrived vrith the rear division. We now ex
pected, that something would soon be done, and all seemed
to feel a revival of confidence and anticipations of success.
The gallant old General was loudly cheered on his arrival,
and without waiting for rest or refreshment after his toilsome
maroh, he immediately proceeded to reconnoitre the enemy's
position. The result was the discovery of a ravine leading to
the right of the enemy's batteries, by which it was resolved
that the main attack should be made. At the bottom of this
ravirie was the celebrated hill of Cerro Gordo, of a conical
form, and rising to a height of about two hundred feet from
the plain. It had about a dozen brass guns, of small caUbre,
being principaUy six and nine pounders. Bounding the
ravine on the left, there was another bUl about as high as
Cerro Gordo, the summits of the two hUls being not more than
half a mile distant. This hill, which General Scott deter
mined to possess, was only covered by a piquet of the' ene
my, and could be easily obtained when required.
The 15th and 16th were occupied in a strict scrutiny of the
enemy's works, and in removing obstacles to the passage of
guns, ammunition, and troops, by cutting the obstructing
trees and bushes. This was done by the pioneers, protected
8*

178 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
by a strong skirmishing party. On the evening ofthe 16th,
we were ready for commencing serious operations.
It was a beautiful night at Plan del Rio on the 16th of
AprU, 1847, and though on lying do-wn to sleep one could
see the lustrous stars shining in the blue canopy over head,
yet we were in the " Tierres calientes " (the warm country),
and one can sleep out of doors there very well in dry
weather. Comfort, like everything else, has many degrees
of comparison ; for two or three nights previous we had a
little more rain than was agreeable, one advantage of which
was, that we now actually enjoyed a good night, " Sweet
are the uses of adversity," Most of us therefore slept soundly
until roused next morning from our slumbers by the reveiUe,
which sounded about half-past four o'clock. Ha'ring taken a
good breakfast of our usual camp fare — biscuit, beef, and
coffee — the last meal for many a poor fellow, we prepared
for the march by falUng into our places in the ranks.
The division to which I belonged, consisting of about 3000
infantry, had orders to proceed under the command of Gene
ral Twiggs, to take possession of the hill at the bottom of
the ravine, and opposite Cerro Gordo, which General Scott
had previously decided upon taking. It was covered by a
piquet of the enemy whom we had orders tp drive in, and
retain the hill in ppssession, as upon itwas considered to
depend our best chance of success in our attack upon CeiTO
Gordo. Ha-ring stowed away cur knapsacks in the waggons which
were left behind in the camp, with the other two di-^-isions,
we began our march up the hUl. We expected to be en
gaged in a shght skirmish -with the eneriiy's piquets, but did
not expect to get into tbe thick of a regular engagement
until next day. Still a sort of chiU was thrown over the
spirits of most of the men ; jests which yesterday would have

ASCENT OF THE RA-VINE, 179
elicited roars of applausive laughter, somehow seemed to
hang fire this morning ; and one or two of our regimental
wits being snubbed by meditative officers for talking in the
ranks, gave their vocation up in disgust, and became as
gloomy and as taciturn as the others. It was no great wonder
either that the men were rather more reflective than usual,
considering that very few of our number had ever been close in
fi-ont of an enemy before, and we were approaching fortifica
tions which we should have to carry by assault, at whatever
sacrifice of life.
On coming to the head of the ravine, we were ordered to
form in ffie, trail arms, and keep perfect sUence, the staff and
field officei-s dismounting and leading their horses. One of
our men happening to stumble pver a stone, and his musket
making a loud clattering noise against his tin canteen, a cap
tain rushes up to him in the utmost fury, and bawls out loud
enough to be heard along the whole line, " You infernal
scoundrel, I'll run you through if you don't make less noise."
As Blunderbore, for that was a sobriquet the men had con-
fen-ed on the captain, stood flourishing his sword iri a strik
ing and theatrical attitude, while the poor fellow seemed ter
rified lest he- should put his threat into execution, the scene
presented such a ludicrous aspect, that in spite of our prox
imity to the Mexican batteries, all of us within sight and
hearing burst into a hearty and simultaneous laugh.
Since 7 o'clock in the moming, when we first began to
ascend the hill from Plan del Rio, we had only gained three
or four miles, and it was now past noon. But we had moved
very slo\Yly, every now and then halting' half, an hour
or so, while the rifles, as skirmishers, cautiously felt the way
through the chaparral in advance. The regiment to which
I belonged, the 1st ArtUlery, was at the head of the column ;
we should therefore have the precedence in the series of mili-

180 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
tary balls about to be offered us by the Mexicans — a dis
tinction I dare say not much valued by ourselves, or greatly
coveted by others ; the post of honour is sometimes the ,post
of danger.
It was about 2 o'clock when we heard a fevv musket shots
in front, followed by the sharp crack of pur rifles, who had
got within range of the advanced line of piquets. We im
mediately got the word to close up, and move in quick time
to the front, and in a few minutes we were at the bottom of
the hill occupied by the enemy, " First ArtUlery and Rifles
form into line, and charge up the hill," was the word of com
mand now. given by General Twiggs, " I beg pardon. Ge
neral, how far shall we cliarge them ?" I heard one of our
captains ask, as we hastily scrambled up, " Charge them to
h — 11," was the reply of the rough old veteran, who remained
with the rest of the division at the bottom of the hUl, The
balls came whistling in no, very pleasant manner as we made
our way up the steep hill, helping ourselves occasionaUy by
the branches of the bushes ; but the Mexicans are bad shots,
and besides they were afraid to expose themselves by coming
forward to take deliberate aim ; so that all their baUs went
whistling over our heads, doing us no damage whatever. In
the meantime on we went, shouting and hurrahing as if we
were going to some delightful entertainment, every one in a
state of the highest excitement, and nearly out of breath
with hurrahing and running up the steep hiU, but at the
same time disdaining tp think of stopping to recover it.
Before we reached the top of the hill, which we did with
very trifling loss, the Mexicans quickly retreated down the
opposite side of it, and now were experienced the bad effects
of General Twiggs's expression, « Charge them to h — U." Af
ter obtaining possession ofthe hill, our object, I. suspect,
should have been to retain it in possession with.fhe .|i

THE FIRE OF THE MEXICANS. 181
possible amount of loss — General Scott having resolved to
plant two t-wenty-four pounders on it during the night, and
to open a fire early next morning on the battery at Cerro
Gordo, and upon that - side of the hUl which he intended we
should carry by assault. The summit of the hiU is nearly
haff a mile distant from that of Cerro Gordo, and they are
separated by a deep and rugged ravine. Our men were ex
tended about half-a-mile along the face of the hUl, firing
upon the retreating Mexicans, with whom, in the eagerness
of pursuit, we bad become ahnost mixed up as we pursued
them down the ravine. But when- the enemy had got half
way up the opposite hiU of Cerro Gordo, vre saw the error we
had committed in pursuing them, being now caught in a com
plete fix.
To attempt to retreat up the hill in the face of the conti
nuous fire of some thousands' of Mexican infantry, and that
of their batteries, who now opened a crossfire (those to the
left sweeping the side of the hill with round shot, and that
of Gerro Gordo opposite pouring in volleys of grape and ca
nister), would have been instant and total destruction.- We
were forced tb remain therefore under the cover of rocks and
trees, &-ing an occasional shot at the enemy only, -who kept
up an incessant, though fortunately for us a very ill-directed
fire until near sunset. Indeed the loud and incessant roll of
musketry all that afternoon, exceeded anything of the kind
I ever heard. At length, towards sunset, the enemy seemed
preparing for a grand charge ; there was a cessation of firing
nearly ; we could observe their officers forming their men
into the ranks, and with colours displayed, and a band of
music playing in front, they at last advanced towards our
position, which at that moment seemed sufficiently perilous.
We had a small ho-witzer, of the kind called mountain how
itzers, from their peciUiar convenience in mpuntain warfare,

182 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
for which they were expressly made ; being light, and easily
dismounted "and carried up a hill. This was prepared for
their reception, being well loaded vrith grape, and we waited
¦with some anxiety to see its effects. On they came till near
the bottom of the ravine, and within two or three hundred
yards of us, when the howitzer sent its murderous contents
among them. I never saw such sudden havoc and confu
sion caused by a single shot. It swept right into the head
of the advancing column, killing and wounding a great num
ber of those in advance, among others several of the band,
who ceased playing the moment the shot struck the column,
whicll halted almost instantly, " Arrah, more power to the
hand that fired -you, my jewel of a ho-w-its-yure -;- it's your
self sure that knows how to pay the piper ; that'll make you
change your tune any how, you yellow pagans," cried Mickey
Ryan. The Mexicans were thoroughly taken by surprise by
this shot, and had quickly resolved not to risk another, for
taking up their wounded they immediately began to retire to
their former position. Except a straggling shot now' and
then, the firing cn both sides soon, ceased; itwas getting
dusk, and our men began to make their way to the main
body by circling round the hiU. Parties were now sent out
to search for and carry in the wounded ; but owing to the
nature of the ground, and the darkness of the night, with a
share of culpable neglect on the part of those whose duty it
was to see the search more carefully prosecuted, I am afraid
a number of the wounded perished, who niight have recovered >
ff they had been promptly attended to, I saw one poor fel
low brought in after' the battle next morning, who had been
wounded and left on the field on the previous night, and
who affirmed that there were groans of wounded men in all
directions round him during the night.
I was witness to an incident this afternoon during the ac-

EESULTS OP RELIGIOUS HATRED. 183
tion, which for the diabolical spirit displayed by one of its
actors exceeds anything of the kind I ever saw. An orderly
sergeant named Armstrong, having received a wound in some
part of the body, sat down seemingly in great agony. One
of the men belonging to his own company came over to
where he was sitting, and asked him if he was wounded ;
on his answering that he was, very badly, " Arrah, then may
the devU cure ye, you black-hearted rascal," was the unfeel
ing rejoinder. The sergeant was not popular, and I believe
his conduct was not calculated to inspire much sympathy for
his misfortunes ; but the wretch who could thus triumph
in his physical sufferings and agony, must have been a fiend,
and his conduct was very severely reprobated and commented
on by his comrades. This diabolical spirit was engendered,
by what is singularly enough called religious hatred ; the
- sergeant havingbeen ¦a,-Q. Orange-man, andthe man addressing
him a Roman Catholic. The sergeant died on the field that
night, his "watch and a purse containing some money, which
he had on his person, were missing, and there were several
bayonet wounds in his body. It was generaUy supposed that
the Mexicans had killed and plundered him, as he had been
left near their lines ; but some did not hesitate to express
their suspicions of foul play, and plainly intimated their
belief that some of his o-wn company had killed and robbed
him. When the action commenced, as we were scrambling up
the hill, and while the balls, were whistling rather thick in
our vicinity, Ifelt a rather smart blow on the right temple.
On the instant I imagined I had received a quietus, but a
moment's reflection showed me that I was happily mistaken.
The false alarm had arisen from the sudden recoil of a
branch caused by a man a pace or two in advance, who was
cmshing through the brushw.ood, a branch of which in re-

184 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
eoiUng had struck me on the temple. The impression only
lasted tor a second, but I sha'U not soon forget the singular,
and by no means pleasant, sensation ' caused by this tiimple
occurrence. Some men have blamed General Twiggs for lea-nng the
remainder of the division inactive, while the small body sent
to drive in the piquets were in such a dangerous predica
ment; but there I think he acted -with good judgment.
Had he engaged the whole division, he might have extricated
the first party, but assuredly with a far greater sacrifice of
life. Nothing but the paucity of our numbers, paradoxical as
it may seem, saved us from a general slaughter on. the
occasion, enabling, us to obtain the cover, of which a large
body could not have equally availed themselves. The great
fault which I, in common with all my comrades with whom
I have conversed on the topic, think he committed, was
that he did not give more expUcit instructions to the officers
in command of companies sent out on that occasion. Per-'
haps he did not clearly comprehend the instructions he had
received from General Scott himseff. At all events that a
blunder had been made was e-rident, that it had cost us
nearly two hundred men equally so, but no one thought of
General Scott in connection ¦with it. General Twiggs has
all the credit of the first day of the battle of Cerro Gordo,
It was now dark, ¦with a slight rain, and amidst the groans
of the suffering wounded, who were having their wounds
dressed, and amputations performed until late at night, the
most smooth and soft piece of turf ha^ring been selected for
their accommodation, tired and weary, we lay down to seek
repose, and recruit our strength for the struggle of next
morning. I had the bad fortune to be on a piece of ground
which was full of small stones, but as we were ordered to
keep our places as if in the ranks, in case of a night attack,

THB LOAN PP A PIPE. 185
I cpuld not better it by shifting my ground. Still I manag
ed to pick up a considerable number of them, and at last I
found that it was somewhat more endurable. There was not
much conversation amongst us this night, but taking a few
mouthfuls of biscuit, a drink of water, and a smoke, we
made ourselves as comfortable as, under the circumstances,
was possible. As tending to show the effect of hardship
and danger in blunting that feeling of subservient humility
usually shown by the private soldier to his officer, I recollect
an incident that occurred. in the -ricinity of where I was
lying. One of our lieutBnants sent a sergeant to a man of
the name of RieUy v/hom he saw smoking, vyith a request
for a smoke of his pipe. " Arrah, sweet, is your hand in a
pitcher of honey, my jewel ?" said RieUy ; " the Ueutenant is
mighty condescending. May be you would be pleased,
sergeant, to inform the lieutenant, along with Rielly's com
pliments, that if he will wait till RieUy has his own smoke —
may the holy Virgin be near us, may be it's the last smoke
ever the same RieUy will take — and tell Mickey Ryan, who
axed the pipe afore him, has had a turn of it, I'U not be agin
lending him the pipe." " Faith ye hae sent the sergeant aff
wi' a flea in his lug," said a broad-spoken countryman of mine
of the name of Findlay. " Bad luck to the impidence of the
rapscaUions, sure it's -a gag they would be after putting in
my mouth in the place of a pipe, if I was to ask one of them
selves for a loan of the same thing," was the rejoinder of
Teddy RieUy.
There was no disguising the fact that we had an ugly job
before us next morning ; but -we had strong ground for hope
in the positive cowardice of the Mexicans, our own compara
tive courage, and the superlative skUl of General Scott
Besides, we had come through the baptism of fire that day,

186 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
and were still unhurt, and perhaps wc should be equaUy
fortunate the next.
During the night, whUe we slept, the guns (two twenty-
four pounders, vrith a complement of ammunition) had with
incredible exertions been got to the summit of the hill, and
placed in position for opening upon Cerro Gordo next morn
ing. A temporary breastwork of stones and earth, capable
of affording considerable .protection to the men who would
work them, had also been thrown up. I slept most uneasily
all night, being cold and sore with lying on the stones ;
we had left our blankets and great-coats in the baggage
waggons, and it had rained a little. I was not' sorry there
fore that when day broke, we immediately fell into the
ranks, and began to ascend the hill. Motion is highly desh-
able to promote circulation and supple the joints after a
rather cold night on the ground, (as . I frequentiy had an
opportunity of remarking whUe in Mexico,) and before we
were half way up the hill I began to feel rather more com
fortable. As we marched by a circuitous path, some of us
turned occasionally to admhe the appearance of the sky,
whioh was tinted -with a surpassing brilliance by the rising
sun, while spread out beneath us, as far as the eye could
reach, was some of the most picturesque and romantic
scenery imaginable. But we were soon recalled to another
sort of contemplation. A shot from the enemy's batteries,
Who had now caught a glimpse of us, foUowed by another
and another in quick succession, soon dispeUed any disposi
tion to sentimentalize whieh we -might have previously
entertained. And having been cautioned to close up and
quicken our steps, in a few minutes we gained the position
we were to occupy, until the signal should be given for the
charge.

THE CRISIS OF THE ACTION. 187
There 'was a slight hoUow in- the top of the hUl near
where our twenty-four pounders were placed, and opposite
Cerro Gordo; this was the position- we ought to have main
tained on the previous afternoon in place of foUowing . the
Mexicans so rashly. In this hollow the rifles, a regiment of
infantry, and our regiment, were ordered to lie down on the
grass, in whioh position we were completely sheltered from
the ffi-e of the enemy's batteries. While lying thus, we could
watch the effects of the grape shot passing a few feet above
us, with its peculiar harsh and bitter whistle, to the opposite
bank, where the saplings and branches crashed, under the
_ withering influence of these unseen messengers, as if by
magic. But soon our 24-pounders opened on the Mexicans
-with most terrible effect, as they were in a dense mass on the
top of the opposite bill, where some thousands of infantry
were crowded, to repel our anticipated assault. We now
received orders to prepare for a charge. "Wbile the rifles
were forming in the bottom of the hollow, one end of their
line had incautiously gone a little way up on the opposite
bank, or side of the hill, A shower of grape, that killed and
wounded at least a dozen of their number, was the result of
this exposure, and a volley pf paths fi-om Colonel Harney, at
the stupidity of the officer who had formed them in that
position, seemed to grate as harshly on one's ears as the mis
siles showering over us.
Wbile this was going on, a di-rision of volunteers urider
General Pillow, had assaulted the batteries on our left, but
were repulsed 'with considerable loss. General Shields being
amongst the severely wounded. The moment had now
arrived when we were to face the horizontal shower which
fbr the last hour and a half had been flying almost harmless
over us. But the twenty-four pounders had done wonders,
and Cerro Gordo was getting rather thinned of infantry by

188 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
the panic created by their deadly discharges'. The activity
of the Mexican artillery was also rather slackened, they were
evidently getting paralysed, and discouraged, at seeing the
effects of our shots. Now was the time for the charge, and
pausing for a few breathless moments till the next shower of
grape hurtled over us, the bugle' sounded the charge, and
with a loud hurrah we leaped and tumbled down the rarine,
opposite the enemy's battery of Cerro Gordo. •«
, A brisk fire of infantry opened upon us as we descended,
and a few of our number dropped by the way ; but we were
in too great a hurry to stay and assist, or sympathize with
wounded men just at that time. BUl Cra-wford, a Scotchman,
and an old British soldier, with whom I had become
acquainted at Vera Cruz, was going down the hiU vrith me ;
we were within a few yards of each other, when recognising
me he called out, " Ha ! Geordie man, boo are ye this morn
ing, this is gey hot wark, how d'ye like this ! Faith, Geor
die ; I doubt they've hit me," he continued, as he sat dovrai
behind a rock, a musket ball having entered the caff of his
leg. I asked Wm if he was badly hurt. " I've gotten a scart
that'll keep me fi-ae gaun on ; but gudesake, man, dinna mind
me, I've shelter here ; an I ken ye'll no like to be the last o'
gaun up the hill." I had just jumped down four or five feet,
when a rattle of grape that splintered a ledge of rock where
I had stood while talking to Bill, showed me the danger of
delay. "Ah, Geordie, a miss is as gude as a mile; gude
bye, tak tent o' yoursel ; tell our folk where I'm sitting, when
it's ower," cried tbe hearty old fellow, who had come through
the Peninsula and Waterloo, unhurt, to be wounded in this
shabby affair, as I afterwards heard him express himseff. It
was not long before I reached the bottom of the hill.
On arriving there, both men and officers paused, but only
for a few seconds, to recover breath, Hore, feeling my havre-

THE VICTORY, 189
sac, containing biscuit and other articles, an incumbrance, I
took it off and threw it dovra. at the foot of a large rock,
intending to call again for it if I could find an opportunity
after the action. We then began to climb the hill, which
was very steep, but being rocky, and covered with brushwood
for about two-thirds of the way, the enemy's musket "baUs
passed quite harmlessly over us until near the top. When
we arrived at the summit, a hundred or two of the Mexican
infantry posted behind a breastwork of large stones, checked
our advance for three or four minutes, until seeing us rein-
•forced by a number of infantry coming up the hiU cheering,
they threw their muskets down, and scampered in the utmost-
confusion down the opposite side of the hiU. Several of the
enemy's guns were now manned, and fired on the retreating
enemy, a disordered mass, running with panic speed down
the. hill, and along the road to Jalapa. The battle was now
won ; the other two forts, that a short time before had re^
pulsed the volunteers, seeing the fate of Cerro Gordo, imme
diately pulled down their flag and hoisted a white one.
They made an unconditional surrender, and the garrisons
-were marched out ofthe batteries to the road, without arms,
to the amount of about 8000 ; they were employed to dig
pits for the interment of the dead, and were afterwards per
mitted to go to tbeir homes, on promising not to take up
ai-ms against the United States during the existing war.

CHAPTER xvn.
After the battle — ^The wounded — Mexican surgeons — ^The litter of
dead — ^An unexpected regale.
G]?NERAL Scott was much censured by the men fijr releasing
the prisoners taken at Cerro Gordo on the terms he did,' It
was argued that though he had no provisions, yet the road
being open to Vera Cruz, a few hundred dragoons might
have marched them back to that garrison, where supplies
were plentfful, whUe the garrison left there would have been
quite adequate to take cbarge of the prisoners. It certainly
did seem rather questionable policy, as whatever were the
faults of the Mexicans as soldiers, they were tolerable artille
rists, and when inside of one of their formidable batteries,
the only position seemingly in which they would fight, they
did us a good deal bf damage before we succeeded in dis
lodging them. Now if he had kept these prisoners,it was
erident that they would either have had to man their batte
ries vrith inferior men, in which case our army would have
suffered less in the subsequent engagements ; or wanting the
assistance of those prisoners they might have been more
inclined to come to terms. The letting them go, however,
was not disapproved of by the Government, though among
the soldiers of our regiment it was generally condemned
when talking ever the policy of the campaign. ,
We had now leisure to reflect upon our good fortune in
having succeeded so much more easily than we anticipated
in our hazardous assaiUt, and I thought I perceived a moisture

GENERAL SCOTT. 191
glistening in the eyCs, and an unusual tremor affecting the
voice of many brave spldiers, as they shpok hahds and con
gratulated each other on their mutual safety. Shortly after
wards General Scott with a few of his staff came riding Up, ,
and shaking hands with all whe approached, congratulated
them warmly on the -rictory. A number of the men and offi
cers having crowded round him, he made a short and affecting
speech, as near as I can recollect in the following words :
— " Brother soldiers, I am . proud to call you brothers, and
your country wUl be proud to hear of your conduct this day,.
Our victory has cost us the Uves of a number pf brave men,
but they died fighting fpr the honour of their country.
Soldiers, you have a claim on my gratitude for your conduct
this day, which I will never forget," During the delivery of
this short address he was on horseback, and held his hat in
his hand. He was very much affected, and tears rolled over
the furrowed cheeks of the majestic old hero, the sight of
which caused sympathetic drops to start to the eyes of
many a rough and weather-beaten countenance, " albeit un
used to the melting mood." At the conclusion, he was
enthusiastically cheered, when he slowly rode -off, bowing,
and waving his hat.
Parties of the men were now despatched in all directions,
to search for and bring in the wounded. A number of the
men also set out in small parties to explore for water ; as
the morning being very hot, most of the men were suffering
exceedingly from thirst. The wounded as they were brought-
in were attended to as well as under tbe circumstances could
be expected, amputations being performed, and the most
urgent and dangerous cases attended to first. One or two
Mexican surgeons also made their appearance, and proceeded
with much apparent skill to dress and bandage tbe wounds
of their unfortunate countrymen, in which they were assisted

192 AD-VENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
by our surgeons, after they had dressed all their own
wounded. These Mexican surgeons are reputed to be very
skilful in the treatment of wounds, which" seems likely
enough ; as there is probably no country in tbe world, ff we
except Texas, or California, where so large an amount of
practice may be found in curing wounds of all the shooting
and stabbing varieties. Be that as it may, however, it was
currently reported that General Shields owed his life to the
skill and care of a Mexican surgeon, who undertook and
completed his cure after his wound had been pronounced
mortal by those of our surgeons who examined it. Our
woimded being supplied with blankets, and a sufficient num
ber of men being appointed to attend on them, they were
. placed under a ternporary shed which at least screened them -
from the scorching rays of the sun. Next day they were
removed to Jalapa, where a large convent near the Plaza was
appropriated to their use as a hospital.
In this engagement the American loss was between 500
and 600 in kihed and wounded, and the Mexicans lost pro
bably fully as many. Between 200 and 300. bodies of dead
.Mexicans were coUected on the field, principaUy on the hUl
of Cen-o Gordo, and a great many were kUled by our dra
goons and light artillery, who pursued them pn the Jalapa
road. ,Some of our men obtained considerable sums of
money after the battle^was over, by searching the clothes of
the dead ; but though the practice may be in accordance
with the usages of war, there always seemed something so
revolting to the feelings in it, tiiat I .could never think of
trying that mode of recruiting my finances, though suff'ering
a, little sometimes fi-om a deficiency of the exchequer. Nei
ther was I the least singular in this respect, as I learned
afterwards ; the feeUng being quite general amongst the
men, moro especially amongst the Irish, who had a superati-

THE MEXICAN DEAD. 193
tipus hprror at the idea cf rifling a dead body, beUeving that
it would be sure to caU dcwn a judgment pn those who
would do it, in a future engagement.
Several bodies of Mexican officers who had been killed
while defending the hill, lay here, one of which was said to
be that of a General who had been allowed to go on parole
with the rest of the garrison from Vera Cruz when it capitu
lated. He was near the stockades, as if he had fallen while
in advanced position, encouraging the soldiers by his exam
ple. One of our men had taken off his boots ; the scoundrel,
I am sure, would not be able to wear them, as the officer's
feet, on which he had fine white stockings, were remarkably
small. His hands too were very small and delicately formed,
so much so as to cause remark by almost all who looked at
the body. He was an old grey-headed man, seemingly
about sixty years of age, of a rather slight though active
make ; and there was something noble in the expression of
his countenance, which was calm and placid, as if he had
died withont pain. He was wounded with musket balls in
two or three places of the body, and as he lay "vrith his
face to the sky, and his feet to the foe," I could not help
feeUng a mingled thrill of admiration and pity at the fate of
the brave old hero.
There was another Mexican officer breathing his last, near
a small stone building which the Mexicans had used for a
magazine, and on which they had a flag when we- carried the
hUl. He was wounded in the breast with a musket-shot,
•and blood was oozing from his mouth. He was a large,
stout-bodied man, and from the indications of Indian blood
in his colour was eridently a Mexican, and not a pure Casti
Uan like the other. A letter taken from his pocket contained
his commission, dated only a few weeks before, and signed
by Santa-Anna, by which it appeared that he was Diego

194 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
Martinez, Capitan de Infanteria. He wore a gold chain
about his neck, to which was attached a miniature pictm-e
of a very fine-looking child ; we could trace no resemblance
in the child's countenance to his, but then his features were
distorted by pain. Poor feUow, ff many of the Mexican
officers had imitated his example, I believe we should not
have won the battle of CeiTO Gordo so easily.
We now began to suffer from the cravings of hunger and
thirst ; few of the men had eaten anything that morning, in
fact many of them had nothing to eat, and water could not
be obtained even for the wounded, who felt a perpetual crav
ing for it. I was therefore very glad when the adjutant
coming up to where a group of us were standing, asked me
if I thought I could find my way to where we had bivouacked
on the previous night. It occurred to me that this would
be a good chance to find some water ; on my way I should
also pass where I had left my havresac at the foot of the
hill, and where Bill CrawfPrd was wpunded, and I should
see whether he had been taken care of I therefi)re told
him I could find my way there easily. He then gave me a
message to his servant, whom he had left behind vrith two
horses in charge, his own and the colonel's, directing him to
bring them round by the -riUage, and wait with them at the
bottom of the hill, a,s the regiment would march down in a
short time. , I started on my mission, and had little difficulty
in finding my havresac; it .lay in the position in which I
.had left it, nearly covered up with the long grass. I was
very glad to see it, and picking it up I threw it over my
shoulders, and pursued my journey. I soon came to the
place where Crawford was wounded, but he was not there,
so I was satisfied that he had been taken care of I passed
the dead bodies of a gi-eat many who had been killed the
day before, both Americans and Mexicans, though princi-

SEASONABLE JIEFRBSHMENT. 195
paUy the latter. They presented a shocking spectacle ; these
ghastiy corpses but yesterday were as fuU of life and anima
tion as I was at that moment, and now there they lay with
their features distorted and blackening in the sun. I felt a
sickening loathing at the idea of these human sacrifices,
these offerings to Mars, which the poet and the historian
dignify with the titles of glorious -rictories, and I cursed in
my heart the infatuation which had linked me to the inhu
man profession of a soldier.
I soon found the groom of the horses ; he was an old grey
headed man, a countryman of mine, named David Gourley,
and one of the finest old fellows in the regiment. After
communicating my message, I got an invitation from him to
take a little breakfast before starting, and I could have the
adjutant's horse, he said, to ride to the bottom of the hill.
I very gladly accepted both of these offers, feeling tired and
faint ; the excitement of the previous afternoon and that
morning, with hunger and thirst, made me fe^l a strong
inclination to lie down under a tree and enjoy a sound sleep.
Observing my appearance of weaiiness, Gourley pulled out
a flask from his havresac, which, having tasted, he handed
to me, recommending it as a sovereign cure for lo-wness "of
spirits, I took a mouthful or two from the flask, which I
found contained some excellent brandy, and felt immediate
benefit from the invigorating cordial. " Ay, ay," said Gpur-
ley, as I handed it back to him, " ye'll come roun' bye and
bye ; Lord, man, ye glowred as ff ye had seen a warlock a
wee sin' ; faith a mouthfu' o' that might be excused to a
teetotaUer on a morning like this. An' boo did ye like ye'r
race up the hiU this morning, Geordie ?" he continued; "faith,
there's mony a braw fallow that'U never turn up a wee finger
again, that got up this morning as well as you or I," I told
him of several men who were killed and wounded whom he

.196 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
knew, and mentioned BUly Crawford, He said he had seen
him ; that he had^ot his leg dressed, and had been conveyed
along with some others of the wounded to Plan del Rio.
Having displayed his provisions, which consisted of some
biscuit, and a few slices of fried beef, to which was added
the luxury of a canteen of gcod water, I assisted my honest
old friend to dispatch a most excellent breakfast, and having
taken anpther mputhful of brandy, I felt like a new being.

CHAPTER xvm,
Santa Anna's leg — Distribution of spirits — Colonel Childs— Interring
the dead— March to Jalapa.
Mounting the horses, we proceeded down the ravine to a
small -riUage. on the road to Jalapa, and about a mile ftom
Cerro Gordo. This was the place -where Santa Anna had his
head-quarters for several days previous to the action. The
Mexicans say he was the cause of tbeir disgraeeftil conduct
on that occasion ; as he left precipitately an hour before the
storming of Cerro Gordoj by his example so discouraging
the officers and men — that they soon after broke and ran,
believing the battle lost— when they heard that he had gone.
It was commonly said and believed by our men, that in his
hurry to- be off he had left his wooden leg behind, and that
it was preserved and sent home to the States as a trophy.
As Santa Anna wears a cor\: leg, I think it is probable that
the wooden leg found there must have belonged to some less
illustrious personage. But the story was turned to good ac
count by several enterprising Yankees, who for some months
after continued to exhibit veritable wooden legs of " Santa
Anna " through the towns and cities of the States, with great
success, making a pretty considerable speculation of it. A
more important prize consisted of several chests, or boxes,
containing upwards of a hundred thousand silver doUaSs.
One of the soldiers who first discovered it, had succeeded in
breaking open one of tbe chests, and a few of the first comers
had helped, themselves to a pocketful, when an officci- hap-

198 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
pened to arrive, who put a stop to further proceedings, by
placing it under a secure guard, and reporting the seizure to
General Scott.
On arriving at the viUage, we found it full of our infantry,
our whole army nearly being dra-wn up in column, wajting
the order to march. The Mexican troops having left their
provisions behind, most of our men got some refreshment
here, of which the popr ffeUpws stPod much in need. But a
number of the small shops in the -riUage having been sup
plied with aquadiente, for the purpose of -retailing it to the
soldiers of the Mexican army, there was a danger of our men
getting drunk. To prevent this, the aquadiente was very
properly prdered to be spilt, and I saw several barrels of it
emptied upon the road, an officer standhig by to see it effec-
' tually done. We also passed some companies where the
officers were superintending the distribution of a portion of
it, by seeing the sergeant serve the men -with a glass of it in
succession ; this was a most judicious proceeding, which I
am sure the men would appreciate. If officers were more
generally aware what a large return of popularity they might
secure among their men by ministering to the wants and
comfort of those under their charge, I believe it would do
much towards improving the condition of the army.
But in spite of every precaution, a number of the men I
could see had got their canteens fiUed vrith the Uquor, which
had cost them nothing ; all the houses in the 'riUage
being robbed of their supplies of prorisions and Uquor in a
very short time, A joUy feUow, belonging to an infantry
regiment, came up to Gourley and me, and asked if we
would drink the health of General Scott, handing us his
canteen, which was full of aquadiente. We tasted his liquor,
which was very fiery and unpalatable, when he very gene
rously gave us a few tortillas, thin cakes made of Indian corn

A FEMALE FOUND AMONG THE DEAD. 199
meal, and a piece of cheese, of which commodities he had a
havresac, nearly full. He advised us to dismount and have
our canteens filled with the aquadiente, offering to show us
where we could get it ; but not wishing to quit our horses,
for fear of losing them in the crowd, and the liquor, to judge
from the specimen we had just tasted, not beihg very palata
ble, we declined his iu'ritation.
After leaving the -riUage, and as we passed on to the bot
tom of the hill of Cerro Gordo, we found the road strewed
with the muskets and bayonets which the- Mexicans had
thrown away in their hasty retreat. These muskets were all
of British manufacture, and had the Tower mark on their
locks ; but they were old and worn put, having evidently
been condemned as unserviceable in the British army, and
then sold to the Mexicans at a lew price. Undoubtedly they
were good enough for soldiers like the Mexicans, who gene
rally throw them away pn their retreat, but after examining
a few pf them I came tp the conclusion that for efficient ser
vice one of our muskets was equal to at least three of them.
Some thousands of these muskets were collected and de
stroyed, and the guns taken at the different forts were also
bmst and rendered unfit for use, by the men left behind for
that purpose under the direction of an engineer officer. A
great number of dead Mexicans, -whose bodies had been col
lected for the purpose of interment, lay at the bottom of the
hUl. Among these we observed the body of a young and
handsome though coarsely attired female, apparently not
more than eighteen years of age. She had been the wffe of
one of the soldiers, and had stayed with him during the ac
tion. Perhaps they were newly married, and had been spend
ing their honeymoon amid the horrid din of war. One
could scarcely help wondering which among that group of
ghastly corpses had been her husband. For ampng them he

200 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
must be;, itwere impossible to picture him flying onthe
road to Jalapa, and leaving behind the bleeding corpse of
his young and beautiful bride. The wives of the Mexican
soldiers are in tbe habit of foUowing the army, ahd sharing
in the fatigues and dangers of a campaign, and there were
several of them among the killed and wounded, both at this
and at subsequent engagements. I was told of one woman
who was wounded in the leg at tbis battle, who disiilayed a
great deal of reluctance in allowing our surgeon to examine
and dress the wound, though such extreme feeUngs of mo
desty, I am bound to acknowledge, are exceedingly -rare
among the women of the lower classes in Mexico.
Leaving Gourley at the bottom of the hilLwith the horses,
I now proceeded to inform the adjutant that I had performed
my mission. I found him seated-on the ground, vrith Colonel
Childs and several of the officers, and was proceeding to
make my statement, when the colonel, interrupting, me, ex
claimed, " But where are the- horses ?" I told him I had got
instructions from the adjutant to leave them at the bottom
of the hill. The adjutant confirmed my statement, and ap
peared to think I had done very well ; but still the colonel
continued to mutter his dissatisfaction at my ha\dng obeyed
the instructions too literaUy. I inwardly smiled at the un
reasonable humour of the colonel, but at times like the pre
sent, when human life seems of about as much value as an
old shoe, the humours of your big men seem mere trivialities ;
and luckily for my equanimity, just at that time, I felt a most
sovereign contempt for the good or bad opinion of breathing
mortal, myself excepted. Besides having satisfactorily
obeyed my instructions, I had made an excellent breakfast,
and found my havresac. With these results I felt very
well satisfied ; and if the colonel was not pleased, why, he
might whistie on his thumb.

UNCLEANLINESS OF THE MEXICANS, 201
About two or three o'clock our regiment was directed to
join the main body of the ai-my, which had received orders
to proceed towards Jalapa. According to instructions, one
company of our regiment was left to assist in the interment
of the dead, and the destruction of the guns and ammuni
tion not considered requisite for tbe use of our ovra army.
The regiment then descended the hill of Cerro Gordo, and
having taken its place in the column, we were soon marching
along the. highway to Jalapa.- A great quantity of clothing
abandoned by the Mexicans strewed the road, and as many of
our men had neither great-coat nor blanket, having left
them in the baggagb waggons at Plan del Rip, they eagerly
apprppriated those -which the Mexicans had thro-wn away.
But they soon discovered that they had made a most misera
ble- prize, few or none of these clothes being wholly free
from a tormenting and disgusting species of vermin to which
the Mexicans seem universally .accustomed and reconciled.
Most of the men, on discovering the condition of these
clothes, threw them away, but a number retained possession
of some of them ; and from that period untU after we entered
the city of Mexico, even those most scrupulously attentive
to personal cleanliness could not wholly divest themselves
from that most annoying and detestable of - the plagues of
Egypt After entering the city, we were supplied with new
clothing, and being in tolerable quarters, and furnished with
a plentiful supply of soap and clean water, we succeeded
after a time in eradicating the abominable pest We only
marched about eight miles that evening, "bivouacking on the
grass plats that stretched along on each side of the road. A
small stream of clear water which the Mexicans had con
ducted a distance of ten mUes, by cutting a channel for it
along the edge of the road, to supply the garrison at Cerro
9*

202 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
Gordo, supplied our evening beverage, and as we were tired
-with the excitement and fatigues of the day, we were soon
folded in the arms of Morpheus.

CHAPTER XIX,
Santa Anna's house — Aspect of the country — The ladies of Jalapa —
A Mexican funeral — ^Description of the city — ^The priesthood —
Procession of the Host — Paying fhe troops.
Roused from our sound slumbers by the bugle at daybreak
next morning, we were soon on our march again for Jalapa.
After marching a few mUes we came to Encerro, the favour
ite residence of Santa Anna, who owns a large and fertile
tract in that neighbourhood. The house in which he had
formerly lived — ^Ued by our men Santa Anita's House —
is a large plain building on the side of a hill, about a mile
from the road, and on the left hand going to Jalapa. Its
situation is admirable, the -riew of the surrounding counti-y
being of the most delightful character, wooded mountains
and grassy plain stretching away as far as the eye can reach.
But water, that principal auxiUary to fine landscape scenery,
it lacks in common with most Mexican scenery. True, a
ri-vulet crosses the highway at Encerro about the size of a
Scotch bum, which leaps and tumbles in a series of sparkling
cascades down a romantic and deep rocky glen on the right
hand ; but any rivulet or sheet of water large enough to give
a tone to the extended landscape, one may look for in vain
in that portion of the country that Ues between Vera Cruz
and the city of Mexico.
We -experienced no interruption from the Mexicans on our
march ; indeed it would have been strauge if we had, con-
\ sidering their contemptible defence of Cerro Gordo. The

204 adventures of a soldier in Mexico.
appearance of the country as we approached within a few
miles of Jalapa, seemed one continuous garden, teeming
-with the richest luxuriance of tropical vegetatipn. The
mountain of Orizaba, with its dazzling w;hite and clear cold
summit piercing the blue cerulean, seemed within a few
mUes of us, though in reality we were about twenty-five
miles distant. This' effect was produced by the remarkable
purity and clearness of the atmosphere, and the sun shining
upon the snow -with which it is always covered. The to-wn
of Jalapa is four thousand feet above the level of the sea,
and is situated on the side of a hiU. It is embraced by an
amphitheatre of wooded mountains, vvhich rise immediately
behind it to the height of several thousand feet ; but in front,
looking towards Vera Cruz, there is an open view of the sea
coast, and in fine clear weather the ships may be seen in the
harbom- at Vera Cruz with an ordinary spy-glass.
As we entered Jalapa, the windows' and balconies Were
crowded with females, white,, yellow, and brown ; the youth
ful and fair portion of vvhom, we were quite -wiUing to
imagine, surveyed our appearance with sparkling glances of
admiration and applause. As for the spiteful and -rindictive
looks of the old and the ugly, "why that was perfectly natural.
Old age and ugliness in Mexico are the firm allies of bigotry
and superstition, and we were rio favourites with holy mother
church, who would wilUngly have cohsigned the whole tribe
of heretico- Americanos to a far hotter climate than Mexico.
We marched through some of the principal streets by a
circuitous route to the barracks which the Mexican soldiei-s
had formerly occupied, a large substantial building, the
apartments of which were excessively dirty. Several regi
ments of infantry, with the Rifles and 1st Artillery, were
crowded into these quarters, which were too small to contain
one half of them with anything Uke conffort : aud at night

MORTALITY AMONG THE VOLUNTEERS. 205
many of the men brought out their blankets, and lay down
on the cold paving stones in the open square, in preference
to sleeping inside. Indeed, it was exceedingly disagreeable
to sleep in these rooms, as they were utterly dark, and the
floor being completely covered vrith men lying rolled up in
their blankets, if one got up in the night time and tried to
reach the door, he was sure to stumble over and awake some
of his sleeping comrades, A number of the men who lay
there had also received slight wounds, and when any person
happened to touch one of them the cursing and swearing
that usually ensued, awoke aU in the room. But as we
were now four thousand feet above the level of the sea,
ha-ring left the tierra calie-nte at least a day's march behind
us, this exposure to the cold and damp night ah gave colds
and other diseases to many of those who slept in the square,
some of which terminated fatally. The volunteers were
marched to a camp-ground about three miles from town,
where in consequence of the heavy rains at night, which
had then set in, and having no terits along with them, their
condition was most deplorable. A great deal of sickness and
mortality immediately ensued among the volunteers — the
natmal and inevitable consequence of this unfortunate pre
dicament, which severely shook the hardiest of the" half
horse and haff alligator breed, and. made short work with
those whose constitutions were of merely human organization.
The desire of General Scott to concUiate the inhabitants of
Jalapa, who, though friendly to the- Americans, yet dreaded
the presence of a large body of volunteers in the town, was
the cause commonly assigned for the arrangement by
whioh the volunteers were sent out to the camp. But I
think a sufficiently obvious cause was the absence of build
ings in the town capable of containing both them and us ;
seeing which, I suspect, there could be little hesitation about

206 ADVENTURES 'OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
which of the two parties it was proper to send away, and
which to retain as a garrison. A few days after our arrival,
there was a proper, arrangement of the troops, and they
were distributed to different parts of the town. Our regi
ment found quarters in a large building at the comer of the
Plasa Nacional.
About a week after our arrival I was sent, -with a party ,of
men, to dig graves for six ofour own deceased comrades, who
had died in consequence of wounds received in the late action
at Cerro Gordo. In digging these graves we remarked, though
we dug up a number of skulls and bones of the human skele
ton, that there was not a fragment of a coffin visible. From this
circumstance we inferred that the poorer classes, in this part
of Mexico, dispense with coffins in burying their dead. This,
I have since heard, is the case, and the funeral of a Mexican
child which we met shortly after we left the burying-ground,
tends to confirm the opinion. The corpse of the child was laid
upon a board which a Mexican peasant carried in his hand.
Its feet and hands were tied vrith ribbons, the hands joined
over the breast, and pointing upwards in the attitude of prayer.
Its hair was interwoven with flowers, with which also the body
was profusely decorated. The whple of the fiineral party con
sisted of the bearer and two women whp accompanied him.
Soon after our arrival in Jalapa the mortality among the
troops increased to a frightful extent, and the obvious fact
that aU, was not done, that under the circumstance could
have been done, for the comfort and alle-riation of the suffer
ings of the sick, rendered the condition of the hospital a pain
ful subject -of reflection to those whose constitutions had yet
resisted the approach of disease. Some allowance must be
made for the imperfect state, of order inseparable frcm a cam
paign, but after every liberal deduction that charity can
suggest, there wUl still remain a large amount of blame to

DISGRACEFUL STATE OF THE HOSPITAL. 207
be awarded somewhere for the state of things then existing
in the hospital at Jalapa. I passed through it several times,
having been sent there on various duties, and the scenes
which I saw there ^ve me the most painful and shocking
impressions of any which I observed during the whole cam
paign. Sick men, some of whom were wounded, and others
wasted to skeletons with diarrhoea, and in the last stage ,of
illness, lay on a thin piece of matting or a dirty doubled-up
blanket, on the cold and hard brick floor. Many of them
had on shirts which they had e-ridently worn for weeks, and
I was told by some of the patients that nearly all of them
were infested with vermin. Their diet was bread and coffee,
which few of them could eat ; indeed a more unsuitable diet
could scarcely have been chosen, I should be sorry to
attach blame to any person in particular for this notoriously
bad management, but I can scarce help thinking, that as a
considerable sum^of money had been seized at Cerro Gordo,
a large portion of it might have been very beneficially em
ployed in remedying these evils. At least clean and com
fortable bedding might have been fumished to the patients,
who might also have had their linen washed. There was
abundance of soap and water in Jalapa, and hundreds of poor
women who would have been very glad of the employment. It
seems strange that such an idea never suggested itself to any
person competent to have it carried into effect. I know that
among the sbldiers of our company, who discussed the matter
frequently, the remedy always appeared as simple and easy
of execution as desirable.
The town of Jalapa, from which (by the by) the medicinal
plant jalapa, vvhich grows extensively in that district, takes
its name, is an exceedingly pleasing specimen of a Mexican
town. Besides the natural advantages of the rich soil and
fine climate of the neighbourhood, and its admirably pictu-

208_ ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
resque situation, there is an air of cleanliness, industry, and
comfort about the pporer classes of the inhabitants, both in
their personal appearance and in that of their houses, rather
unusual to see in Mexico. The houses are mostly one story,
and at most two stories high, and their thick walls, built pf
stone, are nicely white-washed, ccntrasting beautffuUy vrith
the deep verdure of the luxuriant vegetation everywhere seen.
Orchards, gardens, and green and shady lanes, 'where creep
ing vines trail their tendrUs, blossoms, and flowers in vrild
and graceful profusiori over the walls and fences, intersect all
parts of the to-wn, except a few streets in the centre. It is
well supplied with good water, conducted from the neighbour
ing hills, and in every quarter of the town are commodious
washing-sheds for the use of the pubhc. These sheds' are
supported on stone pillars, and have rather an ornamental
appearance. Tubs are dispensed with in them, entirely ; a
range of separate washing places, made of smooth tiles, and
running the whole length of the building, supplying their
place. All the linen of the town is washed at these places,
no one ever thinking of washing at home, and there a num
ber of womeri and girls may be seen washing from morning
tiU night, singing, chatting, and laughing the while, as only
cheerful health and industry can make people. Any person
who thinks the Mexicans cannot be industrious should see
these girls washing in Jalapa.
A great many wealthy old Spanish famUies reside in Jala
pa, and the beauty of the senoritas (young ladies) "of that
pleasant littie town was generaUy admitted by the young
Americans to equal at least, if not to surpass, the beauties of
the States. Groups of these senoritas, from sixteen years of
age and upwards, might be seen standing in the balconies
that front their windows in the cool evenings, chatting, laugh
ing, and smoking the cigarito. The -long, lustrous black hair

THE SENORITAS OF JALAPA. 209
and clear rich brown of her complexion, theroguish twinkle
of her dark eyes, and in spite of her indulging in an occa
sional cigarito, the pearly hue of her admirable teeth, seen to
excellent advantage as -you listen to the silver tones of her
delightful laugh, render tbe senorita of Mexico rather interest
ing.- In fact, I believe tbe Mexican gh-l, or senorita, has the
most musical laugh of any in'the world. There is an abso
lute magic in it, and I would defy an anchorite to hear it
vrithout feeUng a sympathetic twitch of his risible organs, its
pure heart-easing mirth, and ringing melpdy, can-ying all
before it as tiiumphantly and irresistibly as the notes of the
famous world-enchantress- Jenny Lind, If -n-e add to these,
that pecuhar Nora Creina-like ease and natural grace of mo
tion and gesture whieh distinguish the Mexican females, pro
bably the result of their emancipation from those ingenious
instruments of female torture still in use among half-civilized
nations, called corsets, it will be at once conceded that theh
claims to several of the attributes of beauty are by no means
contemptible. The principal church stands at the cornei of the Grande
Plaza, and is a strange, quaint-looking, but massive and
strong old building. It is a large church, and the interior is
very richly and gaudily decorated, with the usual parapher
nalia of these churches, of which thers are three or four more
in the town.' Mass is performed in- this principal one, and
in one or two of the others every day. But it seems to be
almost wholly for the benefit of females on working days, as
I have frequently observed, when the congregation was com
ing out, that there -was scarcely a single man to be seen, and
certainly not one in ten were of the male sex.
The market is held in the Plaza, a large open paved square
in the centre of tbe town, every morning ; Sunday, as in all
Mexican tovras, being the principal market. It commences

210 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
about six in the moming, and is usuaUy over about three or
four in the afternoon. Fruit and vegetables are the principal
articles sold, and these are very cheap. Fowls and eggs were
also tolerably cheap when we arrived ; a good fowl being sold
for two reals, or a shUling, and a dozen of eggs for one real ;
but a rapid rise in prices took place soon after the troops
entered the town. The alcalde, an honest old fellow, who, I
dare say, never had heard of political economy, and the law
of supply and demand, was perfectly shocked at the extortion
practised on the soldiers by the vendors of commodities.
He endeavoured to bring back the prices to what they were
before our arrival, by pubUshing an edict fixing the price of
articles ; but it was of no practical effect, as they easily found
means to evade it.
The number of priests one sees in the streets of this smaU
town is astonishing. Many of them are Mexicans of the
iPwer class, that is half Indian caste, and these are generally '
of mest forbidding aspect, having the obUque, sinister eye,
and " forehead -rillanous low,'' ofthe Indian, and a complexion
tallov^ish and singularly disagreeable. I could scarcely help
fancying sometimes, when I have suddenly met one of these
hooded monks, that there lurked a twinkle of the unholy fire
from that " light of other days," the auto dafi., in the scowl
which he threw from under his beetle brow on the heretico
Americano. Indeed I believe tbe majority of them would
have considered a little religious roasting only a fair quid pro
quo for the sound basting the Americans were gi-ring their
countrymen, and which threatened serious damage to the
monopoly of religion which the Virgin and her cowled and
hooded ministry enjoyed in Mexico:
Shortly after om- arrival in Jalapa, General Scott, who was
anxious to place his army in winter quarters, as the rainy
season was commencing, proceeded with the main body of

HONOURABLE COifDUCT OF GENERAL SCOTT. 211
the army tc Puebla, leaving Colonel Childs, of our regiment,
governor of Jalapa, with a garrison of about a thousand effec
tive men, of which our regiment formed a part. The garri
son and sick left behind at Vera Cruz, the discharge of a
regiment of volunteers whose term of service had expired,
and the great number of sick in hospital, with the kiUed and
wounded in the late action, had reduced our effective strength
more than half, and we were now a very insignificant force
for active operations. But as the rainy season continues for
two or three months at this period of the year, during which
it would be folly to bring an army into the field, we should
have time to wait for reinforcements.
Shortly after our arrival at Jalapa, the secretary of war,
under the direction of the President, I suppose, sent instruc
tions to General Scott, to commence taking pro-risions and
forage for the subsistence of his troops wherever he could
find them, vrithout paying for the same. This they called
making the war support itseff, and said it was the only way
to make the Mexican people anxious to end it, by making
them feel its burden. With these most stupid and atrocious
instractions, acting with sound policy, as well as from
motives of justice and humanity. General Scott in the most
exphcit and decided terms refused to comply. He declared
in his reply to the Secretary, that he would pay, or pledge
the credit of the American Government for every cent's
worth of produce which the Mexicans should furnish the
army while under his command. The good consequences
of this just and honourable conduct were felt throughout the
subsequent part of the campaign in the comparative ease
¦with which we found supplies of all descriptions ; and to the
mUd and mitigated forrii which the war assumed under this
system, as compared with that to which another course

212 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
would have led, the speedy and favourable conclusion of the
war may be partly attributed.
Colonel ChUds, the governor of the town, with a view, I
- suppose, to conciliate the priests and inhabitants of Jalapa,
had consented to take a part in a procession of the host.
This caused a good deal of grumbling among a regiment
of Pennsylvania volunteers, who lay here at the' time, and
who were loud in their denunciations of his conduct, con
sidering it a complete compromise of the national honour.
One evening a procession-of the host going to the house of
« a sick grandee, a number of chanting friars and priests,
drawling Latin hymns, and ringing bells, each with a thick
wax candle, lighted, in his hand, and all bareheaded, and in
black or white go-wns, were seen issuing from the church
door into the street. There were about a hundred priests,
and a number of boys in surplices, carrying pots of incense.
Ih -the midst of this procession. Colonel Childs, Captain
Burke, and Lieutenants Brannan and Hoffman', of the first
artillery, made their appearance, dressed in full uniforms,
each carrying a lighted wax taper in one hand and his cap
in the other. The whole affair, as a matter of taste, was
simply absurd ; as a matter of policy, questionable. One can
hardly imagine that the Mexicans would be so easily gulled
as to beUeve that the officers cai-ed a farthing -for the cere
monies they were engaged in. It was more probable that
the parties most inimical to us would construe the deshe to
conciliate them into a distrust of our own resources, which
might strengthen their presumption and resistance to the
-just demands of America. However, had the display been
limited to an exhibition of himseff, and the subordinates who
attended him on the occasion, I believe no one would have
thought it worth more than a passing laugh ; but unfortu-

ARREARS OF PAY, 213
nately this was not : the case. The officer commanding the
main guard, had received orders to have the guard under
arms, and on the approach of the procession to cause them
to present arms, and then kneel with their- muskets in the
left hands, and their caps in the right, until the procession
had passed. To the .credit of the volunteers wbo formed
about two thirds of the guard, tbey refused to obey this
absurd crder, which was' luckily not insisted on, or the con-
sequencesmight have been serious. As for the portion of the
regular soldiers who were upon guard, they performed their
part of the ceremony witbout hesitation, evidently consider
ing it a piece of foolish enough drill, and nothing more.
'The officer of the guard was a sensible fellow, and deserves
credit for not rigidly enforcing the obedience of the yolun
teers, and indeed it is probable that he saw the absurdity
and unconstitutional nature of the proceeding. But it was
a great blunder for Colonel Childs to issue an order of such
a nature, and had it led to serious consequences, as with a
blundering headstrong officer on guard, it most likely would
have done, he would have incurred a hea-vy responsibility.
About the latter, end of May, we received four months'
pay. This had been very much wanted fbr some time ; and
for the last month especially, the men had grumbled loudly
at the long delay of the paymaster. The long periods that
elapsed between the payments of the army while in Mexico
was a serious grievance, causing much suffering and dissatis
faction. Soldiers are exceedihgly improvident, and many
of them, indeed the far greatest number of them — squander
their pay, of which they receive two months at once, in a
few days, or weeks at farthest. Sometimes they are not
paid for a period of four months, as in the present instance,
when a private receives twenty-four dollars, about five
pounds. This produces a short saturnalia succeeded by

214 ADVENTURES OF A SPLDIER IN MEXICO.
mpnths pf destitutipn, during which a soldier feels the want
of a number of those little comforts and luxuries, which
habit has converted into necessaries, most acutely. Tobacco
to those who are habitual users of it, as nine tenths of the
soldiers are, or a glass of spirits when cold or wet in camp,
or on a march, and without the means of getting dried or
warmed, these are not only harmless luxuries, but necessary
restoratives in many cases. Such apparent trifles as these
are essential to the comfort of most soldiers, and render
endurable the thousand petty annoyances and discomforts
of a life fuU of hardships ; and for want of these, or the
means of obtaining them, I have seen soldiers become gloomy,
irritable, and even disobedient and mutinous. As a means
of preventing these results, consequent on the payment of
two or four months' pay at a time, an excellent remedy
might be found in giving each soldier a smaU sum weekly
through the medium of his captain, which might be charged
on the monthly pay rpU.

CHAPTER XX.
Departure from Jalapa — Deserters — On the march — Captain
¦Walker — ^Perote — ^Tepe Agualco — Puebla.
About the middle of June, a large reinforcement under the
command of General CadwaUader having arrived at Jalapa,
according to the instructions which Colonel Childs had
received, we had orders to prepare for a march to join the
main body, then quartered in Puebla. The Ueutenant who
commanded the company to which I belonged, had, shortiy
before this, been promoted to a captaincy in another com
pany. We had got as our captain, when he left, a dashing
sort of fellow called Captain Magruder, who being particu
larly distinguished for his skiU in Ught artillery manoeuvres,
got charge of two twelve-pounder guns ; our company was
thus converted into horse artillery, and had charge of a
battery. We therefore gave our muskets into the charge of
the ordnance department, and received in exchange about
forty of the quartermaster's best horses, for which a number
of Mexican saddlers were immediately employed in altering
and fitting harness, and in a few days we were fully equipped
as mounted artillery. Our battery, which was principally
got 4ip for the purpose of being used on the march, as it was
expected that the enemy would oppose us at some of the
mountain passes between Jalapa and Puebla, consisted of
two twelve-pounder brass guns, and a small brass howitzer.
It having been General Scott's instructions to evacuate
Jalapa and join head-quarters at Puebla, vrith the next

216 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
reinforcement, aU the' sick who were able to bear tbe journey
were to be conveyed in waggons to the castle of Perote.
The authorities of Jalapa had humanely undertaken the
care of those too illto be removed, a charge which we after
wards learned they most faithfully and honourably fulflUed,
On tbe '25th of June we commenced our march, but only.
prooeeded to a plain called the Camp ground, where the
volunteers lay before leaving for Puebla. It is about three
miles out of the ¦ town pn, the road to Perote ; there we
pitched our tents and encamped for the night. The train
whioh arrived with Cad-vvallader had brought our tents fi-pm
Vera Cruz ; as it would have been impossible for an army
to encamp on the table lands without tents, owing to the
coldness of the nights. For some time before we left Jalapa
the emissaries of the Mexican Government had been busy
tampering witb the soldiers Of our army, holding out large
promises of preferment and distinction to any of our rnen
who would join their larmy, and giving them moriey and.
liquor as earnest of a future higher reward. Unfortunately
for their dupes, they were only too successful, and a great
many of our men stayed behind. This result was also partly
occasioned by the foolish and tyrannical conduct of a num
ber of tbe young officers of the American ser-rice, who
abused their authority greatly, and who were not sufficiently
checked by the senior officei-s of the ser-rice. Out of the
company to which I belonged ten deserted, more than an
eighth of our entire company, which was not eighty strong
at the time. I cannot say for its correctness, but it was
currently rumoured, and I think it highly probable, that
there were between two and tbree hundred desertions from
our army while we lay at Jalapa.
The ground where we encamped -was a fine grassy plain,
and near it ran a stream of pure water ; it was capable of

THE ADVANTAGE OF HAVING A HORSE. 217
affording accommodation for an army, being several mUes
in extent. Our guus were placed in fi-ont of our tents at a
convenient distance, and the picket rope ha-ring been stretch
ed between the caissons extended for the purpose, our horses
were fastened to it for the night. It rained a good deal
during the night as usual ; for during the rainy season in
this part of Mexico a hea-vy fall of rain, often accompanied
by thunder and lightning, usually takes place every after
noon or evening, and continues during the greater part of
the night, the mornings and fore part of the day being
invaiiably bright and clear.
We were roused by the bugle sounding the stable call in
front of our tents at half-past three o'clock in the moming ;
I mean our company, for the remainder of the division did
not get Up for an hour and a half after that. One of the
evils of having horses on a march, is that you have to get
up considerably earlier than the rest of the division, as you
have to rub down your horses, take them to water, and
harness and feed them. But still there are advantages to
be derived from them which more than counterbalance any
slight trouble they may occasion. Just imagine the differ
ence of getting yourself carried, in place of carrying a
musket and knapsack, and limping alpng tired and foot-sore,
after a long day's march, as an infantry soldier. In the
evening, after a long day's march, while the infantry soldier
feels every joint aching and can hardly drag his tired limbs
round the camp, the soldier who has been riding all the day
finds it a pleasant and relaxing exercise tc rub dpwn and
curry his horse, ride him to water, and carry him his forage.
Indeed, I believe it would take a great deal to tempt a man
who knows the difference of campaigning as a dragoon or
hght artillery-man, to change situation with a soldier belong
ing to an infantry regiment. But very few of our men
10

218 ' ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
thought so then I dare say, and as many of them knew nothing
about the management of horses, they thought it a great
bore to have anything to do with them. For my own part,
I must confess that this was the case^th myself at the
time. I had only been on a horse's back two or three times
iu my life, and that more tban twenty years before; the
plain fact being, that I knew as much about a horse as a
horse knew about me. But one of our sergeants was sick,
and I being the senior corporal, was fumished vrith a tall
grey charger, and compeUed to take his place. However,
my gaUant grey was a very quiet sort of animal, and too
generous to take advantage of my ignorance in the noble _
art of horsemanship, which I have not the least doubt his
sagacious penetration was not long in discovering. In fact,
I could almost imagine sometimes, from the peciUiarly sly
and humorous expression of his eye as he observed my want
of tact in the arrangement of his furniture, that he was
indulging in an inward chuckle at my awkwardness, though
too well mannered to break out into a loud horse-laugh to
my face. Still we got along very well together, and before
the end of the march I felt quite satisfied that I performed
the various duties of a groom very much to his satisfaction.
Our second day's march was nearly all up hiU, and to
drag our hea-yy guns and caissons was killing work for the
poor horses. About two o'clock we reached a stream of
water and a convenient camp ground, where we pitched our
tents for the night ; strong pickets being sent out to guard
against night surprise by the enemy. We had scarcely
pitched our tents when the rain began to fall in tprrents, and
as we had to unharness and water our horses, and afterwards
go to a barley field and cut a supply of forage for them, we
were thoroughly drenched. A most providential discovery
having been made of a large quantity of aquadiente in a

BEAUTIFUL SCENERT. 219
distUlery which stood in the immediate vicinity of the camp,
General CadwaUader immediately ordered its distribution
among the men, and each man received a gill of it. This
was an exceUent preventive to the bad effects of the cold and
wet, and General CadwaUader was Unanimously voted a
Christian. The distiUery also contained a large quantity of
brovm lump sugar, and several tons of it were carried off iu
our waggons. About two hundred pounds of it were put
into a barrel by a man belonging to our company, and thrown
intp one of our waggons ; our men were allowed to use as
much of it as they pleased, and I believe many of them hurt
themselves by using it immoderately. It continued to rain
aU night, but was dry before we got up to attend to our
horses. The mprning turned out very fine, and we had break
fast and were all ready for marching at six o'clock.
We began our march between six and seven o'clock, and
as an attack was threatened at the pass La Hoya which we
were approaching, we moved slowly, halting half an hour or
an hour occasionally, ¦while a party of dragoons were sent
forward to reconnoitre. On these occasions we had leisure
to admhe some very fine scenery, one of these views I think
the finest I have seen in Mexico. From the right of the
road there is a deep green valley, which descends abruptly,
stretching away a long distance, until bounded by a lofty
and perpendicular wall of bare rock. From the edge of this
rock and along its summit a large plain extends, cultivated
in wheat and barley, and dotted with haciendas. On the
plain and near the precipitous wall, we could see the spires
and white buildings of a good-sized town. A river which
flowed along the plain at the summit, passed near the town,
and then fell dashing and sparkling over the sheer precipice
into the deep green valley beneath. The whole was seen
distinctly, and yet sufficiently distant to be taken in by the

220 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
eye at one view. It was truly a glorious sight, and though
not so magnificent as the views in the neighbourbood of
Puebla and Mexico, yet it was more pleasingly romantic, and
just the sort of smiUng scene calculated to make one wish he
could pass the remainder of his days near it.
We halted near evening at a camp ground, surrounded
by a compjete amphitheatre of hills. It was a fine level
grassy bottom, with a clear stream at one end of it, and a
large wooden trough in the centre, which had probably been
erected by the Government for the use of cavalry on the
march. It rained this evening as usual ; and as the enemy,
several thousand strong, were known to be in the neighbour
hood, pickets had to cover all the adjacent heights to guard
against a night surprise. These poor feUows, after marching
all day, and so tired that they were incapable of keeping up
the circulation of the blood by -motion and exercise, had to
be out all night in the cold and wet We were now at an
elevation of about 7000 feet above the level of the sea, nearly
tvrice the height of Ben Lomond, the highest hUl in Scotland,
and the nights were very cold. After all, it is no wonder
that the mortality is so great in an army during a campaign,
when one considers the constant exposure to extremes of
heat, cold, and fatigue, to which the soldier is subjected, and
the hunger and thirst he has frequently to endure, or the bad
quality of the food or water he is sometimes glad to use. It
cleared up about the middle of the night, and when we rose
in the morning there was hoar fi-ost on the ground.
We had the most dangerous part of the pass to go through,
and we had orders to keep our slow matches burning in the
Unstocks, and be ready for instant action. Our road for the
first few miles was over an ascending tract of broken lava,
presenting the most singularly irregular surface of a country
imaginable. On each side of the road huge masses of la,va

A GLIMPSE OF THE ENEMY. 221
stood at intervals Uke gigantic pillars. Between these, and
covering the whole surface of the ground, broken lava was
stre^wn, with a crumbled sort of appearance, as if it had
covered the ground in one vast sheet, and cracked into fr-ag-
ments by the process of cooling. K lava is contractile and
expansive, like the metals, perhaps the intense heat of the
sun by day and the cold frosts at night might partly account
for the appearance of the crumbled portions, A great vari
ety of cactuses, which, Uke the eccentric and joUy Mark
Tapley, ofthe Blue Dragon, never seem to come out so .strong
and vigorously as when struggling vrith difficulties of situa
tion, sprang up between the crevices of the rocks, and a few
dwarf aloes and stunted pines endeavoured to gain a footing
here and there. A wUd and rugged range of hills covered
vrith pine trees, bounded the. road on the left ; and in the
hollows and ravines of these the enemy were supposed to be
concealed, waiting a favourable moment for an attack.
"When we had traveUed about four or five miles, a small body
of the enemy were discovered about haff a mile off, on the
side of the hUl. The division was halted, and our guns being
unlimbered, and brought to bear on them, we fired several
shots, when we could see their white dresses gliding among
the green trees and bushes, in all directions, reminding us of
a flock of scared wild fowl. At some of the points which
had the most suspicious appearance, and presented a good
point of attack for an enemy bold enough to avail himself of
the advantage, companies were sent out as skirmishers, but
the enemy kept cautiously out of sight.
About ten o'clock we met Captain Walker and his dra
goons. He had received information that a force had been
coUected with the design of attacking us, and had come out
from Perote to our assistance. He left Perote on the pre
ceding evening, and being conducted by a Mexican spy to a

222 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
place where a large body of the enemy were assembled, he
routed them in the utmost confusion, his dragoons cutting
down a great many with their sabres. We arrived at a -ril-
lage a Uttie beyond the pass, about seven miles from Perote,
which was said to belong to Canales, a Mexican general,
known to be a most bitter enemy of the Americans. The
viUage was completely deserted by its inhabitants, and as
they were considered to form part of the guerUla force
assembled to oppose us, it was set on fire and bumed to the
ground. Captain Walker and his dragoons were much feared and
hated by the Mexicans in the neighbourhood of Perote,
They had the duty assigned them of hunting out and routing
the bands of guerillas who infested that neighbourhood, and
as might be expected from troops on a service of that nature,
were said to commit actions at times that would scarcely
bear a strict examination. It is reported that Captain
Walker frequently told his men that he -wished them to
bring in no prisoners ; the inference which his men were cer
tain to draw from this hint may be easily conceived. But
one of the great e-rils of guerilla warfare is, that it necessa
rily, by the process of retaliation which it induces, ends in a
dishonourable and savage system of inhuman butchery and
fiendish assassination. Captain Walker, a Texan, vrith his
father and two brothers, had been taken prisoners by the
Mexicans in some foray whieh they had made on the Mexi
can frontiers, a few years before the breaking out of tbe pre
sent war. With a large body of American prisoners taken
at the same time, they were confined in the dungeons of the
castle of Perote, where a number of them soon died of the
bad treatment they received, A proportion of their number
were ordered by the Mexican Government to be shot, the
-rictims being indicated by drawing lots. Captain Walker's

TOWN AND CASTLE OP PEROTE. 223
father and brother were among those shot on the occasion,
and it is said that he then resolved to pursue the Mexicans
with relentiess revenge on every practicable opportunity.
He obtained his release some time after, vrith the remaining
prisonei-s, aSid on the breaking out of the present war, having
obtained the command of a body of volunteer dragoons,
raised in Texas, and called Texan Rangers, he returned to
fiiMl his resolution, and pour out the -rials of his wrath on
the wretched peasantry. He was kiUed at a battle fought
at a place called Huamantla, near Puebla, about four or five
months after this.
From the pass Los Vigas, the country begins to exhibit
signs of cultivation, and we soon reached an extensive plain
where we had a view of the town and castle of Perote.
Large fields of barley and wheat, then ripe and yellow, ex
tended for miles over the plain, with not a sign of an enclo
sure or a di-rision, and the rugged hills on the left were cul
tivated, in some parts, haff way up their sloping sides. The
insulated mpuntain of Pizarro, a vast mass of rock, termi
nating in a lofty cone, rises in the plain, about a distance of
eight miles behind Perote ; on the left, in the distance, stand
the volcanoes covered vrith snow, andin front ofthem a long
line of craggy mountains. We passed on the side of the
road a few miserable -rillages of mud hovels, the abodes of the
wretched peons who cultivated the rich fields we were pass
ing through ; also several haciendas, the residences of the
proprietor or manager of the estate, and were soon in the
suburbs of Perote. The maguey makes its first appearance
here, where it is used for fences, and from Perote to the city
of Mexico, it constitutes a prominent feature in the landscape.
This is the gigantic American aloe, from which the beverage
called pulque is extracted, of which all Mexicans are so fond.
We encamped on the plains in front of tho castle, which

224 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
is situated about a mile from the town of Perote, This
strong garrison was taken possession of by General North,
who foUowed the Mexicans in their retreat after the battle of
Cerro Gordo, affording them no time to garrison or provision
it for resistance. The town of Perote, one would naturally
imagine, should have exhibited some symptoms of the pros
perity which reigned so delightfully in the fraitful abundance
of the surrounding landscape. But I believe I never saw a
more melancholy and decayed town in any part of the coun
try, which is saying a great deal. Nearly a third of the
houses, which are nearly all built of mud, were roofless and
in ruins, and the miserable inhabitants seemed to have in
extreme degree the shivering, starved, and apathetic look of
cheerless, indolent misery that characterises the Indian pea
santry between Vera Cruz and the capital. The men haunted
the silent and ruinous streets with theh melancholy visages,
and wrapped in their dingy blankets, looking like spectres
of famine ; no employment, or any appearance of it, nothing
but dirt, indolence, hunger, and utter Mexican wretchedness,
in the midst of scenes of smUing plenty.
We stayed in Perote two days, during which we had a
number of our horses shod, and on the 29th we resumed our
march. For some distance after leavhig the town of Perote,
our road lay through flelds of wheat and barley, and occa
sionally a large field of beans, a great article of food in Mex
ico. But the same wretchedness of appearance distinguished
the huts of the peasantry, and the men, women, and children
whom we saw in their vicinity, that we had remarked in the
same objects for the few previous days. As we neared the
mountain of Pizarro we left the cultivated part of the plain.
The road winds round the base of this volcanic mountain for
a considerable distance, and on a near view on the highest peak
of the rock a large wppden cross is visible. By the by, in

THE MIRAGE. 225
traveUing between Vera Ci-uz and the capital, one every now
and then observes a small wooden cross erected by the road
side, wreaths of vrithered flowers hanging on some of them.
These, we were told, had been erected to indicate the spot
where the dead body or bodies of murdered travellers had
been recently found,. and buried, and the frequency of their
appearance said volumes on the insecurity of human life
whUe travelling on that route. A peasant, on passing these
crosses, if a man, takes off his hat, and if a woman, she
drops a curtsey ; I have frequently seen them kneeUng and
saying prayers in front of them. As we circled round the
base of the mountain, we saw tbe mirage — ^that singular na
tural phenom'enon which one reads of in books of travel, and
which I had somehow always supposed was confined to tho
sandy plains of Afi-ica, I was prepared to look for it here,
however, having been told by one of my comrades, as wo
came along, who had been reading in a book of Mexican
travels an account of its being always seen in the plain be
yond the Pizarro on a clear day. But so perfect was tho
optical illusion, that reason could scarcely prevail against the
seeming evidence of sense. It appeared, at the distance of
three or four miles, to be an extensive lake distinctly set in
the plahi, and reaching to the base of a range of hills, whoso
dark masses were distinctly seen inverted in the clear mirror.
As we approached, however, the lake was gradually con
verted into a large sandy plain, over which the rays of light
trembled with undulous motion through the highly rarified
atmosphere. At length we reached Tepe Agualco, a town
of mud houses, near a r£,nge of dismal, dark, and rugged
mountains, bare to their .summits, half way up one of which
was seen a quaint-looking old church. A few straggling
fences of the maguey were the only ornament in the vUlage,
-iyhich contained three large mesons, or inns,
10*

226 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
These mesons are so nearly alike in theh accommodations
for traveUers in aU the towns and villages on the road from
Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico, -with the exceptions of
Jalapa and Puebla, that one description may suffice for aU.
They are usually buUt in the form of a large square, the
buildings being one story high. The front of the square,
through the centre of which there is a wide entrance, care
fully closed at night by a large gate, contains the domestic
establishment of the proprietor, with his offices and kitchens.
The furthest end of the square is a range of sheds furnished
with stalls and feeding troughs for an unlimited number of
quadrupeds, and the sides of the square are ranges of small
unventilated apartments, about six feet by ten, -with a door
in the centre, but no windows. Into one of these cells the
traveller and his luggage are stowed ; be makes his bed, ff he
is so fortunate as to possess the means of doing so, on the
floor, never very clean, but which he may sweep if he can
find a broom on the premises. An ah of the most jjertect
contempt for the virtue of cleanliness pervades every corner
of the establishment, and the bill of fare is usually limited
to a very few simple dishes, among which tortillas and fri-
joles, maize cakes, and beans stewed in lard, form promi
nent items. In short, the person purposing to visit Mexico
who is not prepared for being robbed on the highway by
banditti, or is nice in the article of diet, or not imper-rious to
the attacks of fleas and other unmentionable vermin, would
be wise either to lay up a considerable share of stoical en
durance, and resolve to submit heroically to the force of
circumstances, or altogether abandon the rash purpose.
We remained in Tepe Agualco two days, as General Cad
wallader wished to allow a reinforcement of troops under
General Pierce, who were only two or three days' march in
rear of us, to come up with our division. Pulque is one of

PUROS AND CIGARITOS. 227
the principal products of Tepe Agualco, and three or four old
women were seated in front of one of the mesons, each with
a pitcher of that liquor and an earthen jug, which held nearly
a pint, and which they sold for dos clacos, about three cents,
I drank a jug full of it, and although the first time I had
tasted it, relished it very much. It produced the same sort
of exhilarating effect as an equal quantity of mpderately
strong ale.
On the 1st of July we commenced our march over an
extensive plain, uncultivated, except an occasional patch of
beans or barley along the edge, at the bottom of mountains
which bound it. The plains here are covered with short
grass, and a variety of flowering and sweet-scented herbs,
and in the morning when we began our march the air was
deliciously perfumed with the odour they diffused as we trod
on them. In the neighbourhood of Tepe Agualco fhe plain
is covered with pumice stones. These some inventive
genius conceived the idea of converting into tobacco pipes,
by cutting the soft stone into the shape of a bowl, and
sticking a reed or hollow tube into it. Our supply of pipes
had become quite exhausted, and none could be procured,
as the Mexicans never use anything but the cigarito or puro
in smoking. Necessity suggested the pumice stone, which
answered the purpose so well that one-half of the men might
be seen smoking them in the course of a day or two after
the first one had been seen. I may remark for the benefit
of the reader that a puro means a cigar, and a cigarito is
only a small quantity of finely-cut tobacco rolled up in a
paper about a couple of inches long, and the thickness of a
very fine quiU. One puro or cigar contains as much tobacco
and, wiU cost as much money as twenty cigaritos. You
may have a bundle of cigaritos containing from fifty to a

228 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
hundred for une medio (six cents), but you can only pur
chase two or three puros for the same sum.
The plains,_or table lands, tierra templada, commence a
few miles from Perote, and this plateau continues to a con
siderable distance beyond Puebla, where a high range of
mountains di-rides it from the valley of Mexico, These
plains, which are perfectly level, and on which there is not a
single tree, ditch, fence, or habitation, or a shrub higher than
a man's knee, present a desolate and deserted appearance.
They are everywhere bounded by mountains, and vary in
-width from thirty or forty to eight or ten mUes, where they
are narrowed by the spurs of opposite mountain ranges.
The viUages or haciendas are built in retired nooks behind
the skirt of the hills which bound them, and any partial
cultivation visible from Perote. to Noi^aluco, a . distance of
between forty and fifty miles, is a slight patch at the foot
of the mountains. There are a few exceptions to this general
description, and round Perote, Nopaluco, Amazook, Puebla,
and San Martin, there are portions of the soil tolerably well
cultivated. But those cover a small portion of the tierra
templada, and I think there is not a twentieth part of the
available surfac,e of the country under cultivation between
Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico that would be in a short
period ff the country was possessed by a more active and
vigorous race. After a march of about fifteen miles we
arrived and encamped at a place caUed Ojo de Agua (the
Eye of Water) ; a spring which gushes out fi-om a rock in
the side of a hill here gives the name to the place. It is a
shallow, insignificant stream at its source, but it gradually
widens, and about a quarter of a mile frpm the spring my
comrade Nutt and I found it wide enough to bathe in.
On the fifth and sixth we remained in the vicinity of Ojo

THE PINOL PASS, 229
de jigua to enable General Pierce's di-rision to overtake
ours before we undertook to pass the Pinol, a dangerous
pass, about eighteen or twenty miles further on. On the
morning of the seventh we again resumed our march, and
about ten o'clock we arrived at Nopaluco, where we halted
to procure water and such refreshments as the place afforded.
A quantity of fruit and other edibles speedily made their
appearance in the market, and I breakfasted luxuriously on
fresh bread, delicious r\]>e bananas, and chocolate, for une
real, (twelve and a half cents.) Nopaluco is built of adobe
or unburnt brick, and is finely situated on 'a gentle rise.
The land for several miles round is tolerably well cultivated
in wheat, barley, Indian corn, and the agave. About three
o'clock we reached the edge of the pass, where we encamped
for the night.
On the morning of the eighth. General Pierce's division
joined, having been encamped a short distance behind ours
on the previous night, A strong body of skirmishers were
sent up to explore the woods, crowning the precipitous cliffs
which overhung our road for several miles, and on the edge
of which cliffs the enemy had pcised huge masses of rock
ready to tumble on cm- approach, but no trace of an enemy
could be discovered. After all their preparations they had
very prudently given up the attempt, and we passed the
Pinol without hearing a shot fired. After leaving this pass,
our road for a few miles, passed over what seemed the bed
of a mountain torrent, it was so torn up and furrowed by
the heavy rains ; a considerable tract of loose sand, inter
spersed vrith large masses of porphyry, succeeded, until we
arrived near Amazook, where the country is very well culti
vated. Like all the smaU Mexican towns on this road,
Amazook ccnsists pf a cpUecticn of adobe and mud buUd-
uigs, with the exception of a few pf the principal houses in

230 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
the Plaza, whore there is also a very handsome church. The
principal feature in every little town and -riUage in Mexico is
the church. It is always quaint-looking and picturesque,-
and invariably beside the Plaza. It is not customary to
have the burial-grounds adjacent to the churches in Mexico.
In spite of the dirt, slovenliness, and misery which seem to
envelope the population and their wretched-looking habita
tions, the towns and viUages of Mexico have always a
remarkably picturesque appearance. I believe a good deal
of this effect is produced by the remarkable purity of the
atmosphere, and their quaint old churches, vrith theh exterioi-
carved and painted, decorations. The Plaza, being the
market-place, is usually a large open space, gi-ring effect to
the ¦riew. of the church, and it mostly contains a fountain of
water in its centre, and has a row of trees around it, which
also adds to the general effect.
On the ninth we marched through a tolerably well-cul
tivated tract of country to Puebla. As we approached
within five or six miles of the city we enjoyed one of the
finest -riews of a city at a distance that I have ever seen.
The lofty snow mountains of Popocatepeti and Iztaccihuati,
with their broad and heavy-looking dark bases, and their
dazzlingly bright pyramidal summits, rose in the background.
In front, on the side of a gently rising and delightfully
wooded hiU, sat Puebla, every outiine of its numerous spires
and churches seen through the highly-rarified and transpar
ent atmosphere as distinctly as the Unes of a highly-finished
engraving. On arriving at Puebla our company, on account
of requiring accommodation for the horses, were comfortably
quartered in a large tneson, where we remained uiitU the
army marched on the capital.

CHAPTER XXL
Puebla — Convents and public buUdings — Newspaper generals — An
Indian city — San Martin — ^Valley of Mexico.'
Puebla is distant from the city of Mexico 93 miles, and fi-om
Vera Cruz 186 miles; the distance from Vera Cruz to the city
of Mexico by the road being 279 mUes, though in a direct
Une, I believe, it is not more than 150. The Spaniards have
a proverb, " Puebla the first heaven, Mexico the second," and
I believe there can be no question as to the superiority of
the site on which Puebla is built as regards its salubrity and
healthiness. The situation of Puebla does credit to the taste ¦
and judgment of the Spaniards ; this being one of the few
cities founded by them in Mexico, the others being princi
pally on the foundations of Indian towns and cities. It is
buUt on the side of a beautifully wooded hiU, and its streets,
though not very 'wide, are well paved, and have good side
walks of flagstone. The houses are mostly two stories high,
some of them being gaudUy, some fantastically, and others
tastefully, ornamented with painting and carving. Many of
them have the entire front inlaid with painted and glazed
tiles, and the whole produces a sort of bizarre, yet rich and
pleasing effect. One of the suburbs contains a fine public
garden called the Alameda ; it is more than a mUe in circum
ference, adorned with fountains, jets dfeau, and statues, and
is very neatly kept in order, and tastefully ornamented with
flowering shrubs and trees. The houses are all built of stone,
and large and commodious, and but a small portion of their

232 adventures of a soldier in mexic:'.
number would seem to denote poverty ; yet the city swarms
-with squalid beggars, clothed in rags and exposing their dis
eases and deformities. There are several cotton factories
in operation in Puebla when things are in a peaceable state,
and a number of Englishmen are employed in them at high
wages, superintending and instructing the natives there em
ployed. But the war had stopped all the machinery, and
some thousands of the inhabitants of Puebla, thrown out of
employment, were suffering great privation, bpth from that
circumstance and the rise in the price of commodities,
caused by the presence of such a large body of our army.
The goods made in Puebla are very dear, and of coarse
qualities, and only for the enormous duties leried on foreign
goods, these cotton factories could not be carried on at all.
The new tariff by which American goods were admitted at
an almost nominal duty, had caused the stoppage of all the
manufacturing machinery in Mexico.
There are said to be more than a hundred domes and
spires in this city, which has a population of 80,000. It
abounds in convents, and each of these distributes daily an
aUowance of provisions at the convent door, ¦without money
and vrithout price, or even the formality of a ticket from a mem
ber of tbe mendicity sooiety ; a discriminating charity being no
part of the policy of the Church of Rome, one of whose delibe
rate aims seems to be the fostering of ignorance and poverty.
To endeavour to unfetter agricultural, manufacturing, and
commercial industry, and to have the accursed laws of peon
age abolished, so that the people might gradually emerge
from this miserable serfdom to a more elevated and self-
dependent state, would scarcely suit the ¦riews of that Church,
I believe the jealous system of Spain in discouraging com
merce and free intercourse between her possessions and those
of other countries, was dictated by the Church of Rome,

sufferings of THE TROOPS, 233
afraid of the dangerous activity of mind which commerce and
manufactures must ine^ritably produce. Every stranger who
Visits Mexico, and does not wilfully shut his eyes to the fact,
must perceive the culpability of the clergy in causing and
perpetuating the present condition of affairs. They seera
to have cared about nothing but the endowment of churches,
ornamenting of shrines, and all the childish mummery of
theh pageantry. Under the present system of religious in
tolerance which prevails in Mexico, it cannot be expected that
the country 'will become progressive or prosperous. And if
anything can reconcile one to the injustice of carrying the
war into the interior of Mexico, it would be the benefit that
might possibly result, by showing the Mexicans tbe grievous
inferiority of vigorous action which the deadening influence
of this system has produced.
The convents and public buildings in Puebla afforded
ample accommodation to our army, but few of our men
seemed to enjoy robust health. The sick list and the hospi
tals were full to overcrowding, and one-half of those doing
duty, wasted -with diarrhoea, looked Uke skeletons or mum
mies ; the hard.ships and privations of the previous part of
the campaign, telling more or less severely on nearly all, and
one could not walk far through the streets of Puebla vrithout
hearing the mournful strains of the soldier's funeral proces
sion. At Perote too, where a large number of sick had been
left, the castle having been converted intP a-depbt, the sick
died at the average rate of twelve a-day for a, series of
months. These were interred without any military formali
ties, or even the usual burial service ; Deing wrapped in the
blankets in which they died, they were carted out and
thrown into pits dug for the purpose daily outside of the
garrison. I suffered a good deal for several months with the
prevalent complaint, but like a great many others continued

234 ADVENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
to do duty when not very able, being determined not to give
in ff ppssible, I derived considerable benefit from the use
of pulque and aquadiente, and at other times from opium, a
small piece of which I carried in a box in my pocket dming
the campaign, frequently taking a few grains of it before
going to sleep at night.
The rainy season was now nearly over, and all attempts at ne
gotiation with the enemy, who it was now kno-wn had fortified
the approaches to the capital, having failed. General Scott
being ready for the field about the beginning of August,
decided on moving towards the city of Mexico. Accordingly
on the 6th of August the first division marched under the
command of General Worth, on the Sth, the second di-rision
under the command of General T'wiggs, and the third under
General Pillow on the 9th, The company to which I be
longed had turned in the two 12-pounders which we brought
up from Jalapa, and had got instead a light battery consist
ing of two 6-pounder field pieces, and two 12-pounder hovrit-
zers. We now belonged to General Pillow's division. The
whole effective strength of our army, which was subdivided
into three nearly equal di-risions, consisted of about ten thou
sand men, including cavalry and artillery. Of cavalry, we
had about a thousand, three troops of light artUlery, one
hea-vy field battery, and a siege ti-ain consisting of a few large
mortars and guns.
On the morning of the 9th of August, on leaving Puebla,
we passed through a partially cultivated tract for a considera
ble distance. About sjx miles from Puebla we passed, two
or three miles off, oi^the left side of the road, the ruins of
Cholula, an Indian city, which the Spaniards destroyed on
taking possession of the country. A pyi-amid erected before
the arrival of Cortez is still standing, and we could see it
distinctly from the road. It was covered with shrubs, and

THE MARCH TO MEXICO. 235
presented the appearance of a natural hill, with a neat church
on the top of it. Its height is said to be a hundred and
sixty-two feet, and each side of its base 1300 feet. It is
buUt of unburnt bricks and clay, and contains cavities in
tended for sepulchres. There are about 6000 inhabitants in
Cholula, and they stUl manufacture a description of earthen
ware for which they were famous in the time of Cortez. We
met some of these Indians carrying immense loads of this
earthenware to Puebla for sale. It is surprising what heavy
loads they carry on theh backs for a long distance to market.
I have frequently seen them bringing a load weighing at
least a hundred pounds into the city of Mexico, which I was
assured they had brought on their backs from the mountain
eight or ten miles off. They support the burden behind by
a strap which passes across their forehead, and carry a stick
vrith which they prop it when they are tired.
We encamped about twelve miles from Puebla on a mea
dow by the roadside, where there was a pond of indifferent
water. But San Martin was twelve miles further and there
was no other place nearer, andas the next stage between San
Martin and Rio Frio was twenty-four miles, and difficult for
the horses, being mostly up hiU, it was necessary they should
be fresh for that day's march. San Martin, which we made
our second day's stage, is a small town containing a church
and convent, and surrounded by a tract of fertile and weU-
cultivated land. We left San Martin early on the morning
of the third day's march, and after passing through a tract
of country covered -with loose stones of porphyry, and
sprinkled -with pines and cedars, began to ascend the hiUs
that separate the vaUey of Puebla from that of Mexico.
After marching about the half of our day's joumey we
arrived at a well-built stone bridge thrown over a deep pre
cipitous gorge, vrith a stream of good water in a rocky

236 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
channel at the bottom. A little way up the hiU on the other
side of the bridge, we halted at a meson, and here my com
rade Bill Nutt and myself, with several other fortunate indi
viduals, were in time to procure some fresh bread, sausages,
and a drop of aquadiente. Our road for the remainder of
the day's march was up hill, rough, and through a thick
wood of pines. After travelling up hill for two or three
hours, we began to descend into the valley of the Bio Frio
(Cold River), The enemy we could see had made some
preparations for defending the pass by forming breastworks
of feUed trees at various parts of it ; but they.had afterwards
abandoned the idea, being resolved, we supposed, to concen
trate their forces in defending the near approaches to the
city. Descending into the valley we passed Bio Frio, an
insignificant stream, which runs across the road, and which
deserves its name, as it is nearly as cold as ice. It comes
dovvn from the snow mountains and is shaded from the hot
rays of the sun by the fine woods through which it passes.
We encamped on a fine grassy plain a little beyond it. We
began our march early next morning, and kept winding'
round hills covered with thick woods of pines, and carpeted
vrith a variety of vrild flowers, -until about eleven o'clock,
when we reached a meson on the summit of the mountain,
and obtained a -riew of the far-famed valley of Mexico.
Description is tame when one tries tp convey the impres
sion which this scene usually makes on all who see it for
the first time. It is certainly the most magnificent view in
Mexico ; perhaps, of the peculiar description, the first "in the
world. At an elevation of about 3000 feet, the spectator
sees, as if spread at his feet like a map, the whole of the valley
of Mexico, its circumference, at the base of the mountams
which form the sides of the mighty basin, being 120 miles,
and at the crest of the mountains 200 miles. The whole

THE VALLEY OF MEXICO. 237
of the plain, from the height on which the spectator stand.s,
is distinctly taken in at one view, and the most minute details
are distinctly defined and delineated, owing to the remarka
ble transparency and purity of the atmosphere. The towers
and spires of the city of Mexico, twenty-five miles distant,
are distinctly seen peering out from the foliage and trees ;
almost the only part of the valley where trees are to be seen,
by the by, is that round the city. The remainder of the
valley presents the uniform appearance of a large green
plain, dotted with white churches, spires, and haciendas, and
containing several large sheets of water, the remains of the
lakes which are said to have once nearly covered the whole
valley. Several small insulated mountains may also be dis
tinctly discerned, the only large objects that rise on the sur
face of the vast unbroken green plain. The mountains of
Pocopocatepetl, and Iztaccipuatl, its brother giant, rise about
twenty miles to the left, and tower to a height of 7000 feet
higher than where the spectator is standing, though owing
to the bright atmosphere and the sun shining on the snow,
it seems only two or three miles distant. The whole of this
beautiful valley is hemmed in by a circle of stupendous,
rugged and dark mountains, the rough but sublime set
ting of nature to one of her most inimitable pictures, and
forming a most perfect combination of the sublime and
beautiful. Seen from that elevation, the valley of Mexico is a most
glorious and magnificent sight, but "'tis distance lends
enchantment to the view," and as we descend into it, its
beauties vanish. The lakes become marshes, the fields are
not cultivated, the villages are mud, and the inhabitants
-wretched-looking Indian peons, in rags and squalid misery,
-We encamped outside of a small' tovra, called Chalco, on
the lake of that name, and near the left edge of the valley.

238 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
On descending the hUl, where we lay two days, General
Scott in the meantime having reconnoitred the enemy's forti
fications at the Penon, decided on trying if another way
could not be found to reach the city. Colonel Duncan hav
ing satisfied General Scott that a road for artUlery could be
cut from Chalco to Augustine, General North's division
moved in that direction on the 15th, followed by Twiggs's
and Pillow's. We marched by short day's stages over a
terribly bad road, and on the 18th we arrived at Augustine,
'within a few miles of the enemy's position.

CHAPTER xxn.
San Augustine — Eeconnoissanoe — Guard-house luxuries — A
convivial party — An unexpected interruption.
On arriving at San Augustine we encamped in the main
plaza, stretching our picket ropes across the trees that
surrounded it, to which we fastened our horses by the
halters, but vrithout taking off their harness until further
orders. A large force of the enemy had left San Augustine
shortly before we arrived ; they had some intention of mak
ing a stand, and opposing our entrance to the 'riUage, it was
said, but theh courage had gradually oozed out as we
approached over the adjacent plain. San Augustine is a
neat little tovrn, with a fine old church, and a large plaza
well ornamented and shaded 'with trees. But it had a very
deserted appearance, most of the inhabitants ha'ring left in
consequence of the anticipated battle to be fought there, or
in the vicinity. Only a few had stayed in charge of goods
and such property as they had been unable to rempve easily.
This was the first place in which I had seen apples since I
came to Mexico, several Indian women being here vrith
baskets of them, ripe, meUow, and delicious. As these poor
people eagerly exchanged them for biscuits, a rapid transfer of
the contents of the soldiers' havresacs and their baskets speed
Uy took place, to the mutual satisfaction of the parties. I ate
a couple of them, and I do not think I ever relished an apple
so much before or since, which is not much to be wondered
at considering the heat and thhst of the few days' march

240 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
preceding. These apples were very abundant in the neigh
bourhood of San Augustine, w-here -I saw some of the finest
orchards I have ever seen ; our men suffering a good deal
from heat and thirst, were sometimes tempted to indulge in
them to an injurious excess. Indeed our surgeons generally
blamed the excessive use of fruit as a principal cause of the
mortality of the troops during the whole campaign.
After the return of a. party who had been' reconnoitring
tb.e enemy's position, and found them strongly entrenched
on the side of a hill commanding the road to Mexico, we
received orders to take up our quarters for the night but to
hold ourselves in readiness for a sudden call, being cautioned
against leaving the camp. General Scott wished to know
as accurately as possible the strength of the enemy's position,
before hazarding an engagement, a desire to gain a victory
with the smallest possible sacrifice of life, being a decided
characteristic of that excellent commander, who knew that
however despicable an enemy may be in the field, he may
become formidable if un-wisely attacked while strongly
entrenched and fortified, and occupying an advantageous
position. Our infantry were quartered in the various empty
buUdings in the town whioh had been deserted by their
owners, while our captain decided that our company should
pitch their tents in the plaza, and remain there with our
battery. Our horses 'were put up, however, in an empty
range of stables at one end of the plaza, being still left in
harness in case Pf a sudden call for their services. A guard
of twelve men and a corporal having been ordered by the
captain, I found that it was my turn to rnount that evening.
Having according to instructions posted four sentries, one on
the officers' quarters, one on the horses, and two on the
guns and ammunition in the plaza, I marched the remainder
of the guard to the stable-yard, where, finding a butcher's

GUARD-HOUSE LUXURIES, 241
.shop and dwelling-house empty, but locked-up, we very
deliberately forced the lock, and appropriated the building
to the use of the guard. This proceeding of ours was
strictly in order ; but even if it had been rather irregular, the
exigencies of the case might almost warrant our proceedings.
It had begun to rain, and the nights at that season and in
that high region are excessively cold, and unless we had
secured a buUding of some sort for the use of our guard, we
should have suffered from cold and wet during the whole
night During all that day untU near evening we expected
an immediate engagement, there being a constant cannonad
ing interchanged between the enemy's entrenchments and
our heavy field battery. This firing we learned was in
consequence of a reconnoitring party, consisting of several
engineer officers,. having been observed by the enemy, who
opened a fire on the party, killing Captain Thornton of the
dragoons, and seriously injuring a guide. In the evening,
the firing having ceased, strong out-lying piquets were
stationed outside of the towh of San Augustine, and we
were told to be ready for an attack on the enemy's position
next day.
In the meantime we made ourselves, very comfortable in
our guard-house, having kindled a large fire and procured
an ^ample supply of wood to last during the night. The
butcher had left a quantity of sheep sMns, whioh were per
fectly dry, and had the wool on ; these being laid on
benches, or even on the floor, formed a most luxurious
couch; though certainly to a person of the most delicate
olfactory nerves, I believe they would have seemed rather
redolent of a peculiar pdorous effluvium, exceedingly sugges
tive of dead mutton. But that was a trifle compared -with
the grateful softness and warmth derived from lying on
them; we were, therefore, very weU contented -with our
11

242 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
quarters for the night. The fact of the matter is, that in
our present circumstances small favours were generaUy very
thankfully accepted; cold, hunger, thirst, mental anxiety,
and bodily suffering, being admirable cmes for fastidious
ness. The rose leaf frets the Sybarite, while a bundle of
straw is a luxury to a beggar, or a parcel of rank-smelling
sheepskins to a poor, tired and half-starved soldier -upon a
campaign. Having found a large copper boiler on the
premises, such as the Mexican -butchers use to melt lard in,
some one suggested that as we had a good fire we might
have a supper cooked in it for the whole guard. This was
a very good idea; and a few active foragers were imme
diately despatched on a secret expedition for the purpose of
le-vying contributions wherever they could be most easUy
coUected. These were successful beyond expectation, speedily
returning with supplies which gave us anticipations of a
feast such as we had not beheld, except in dreams, for a
long time previously. After an inspection of the stock of
provisions on hand, with the very handsome additions made
by our active and _ highly-intelligent party of foragers, for
which they received high commendations, the dish which
seemed best adapted to our circumstances, and which we
agreed to have cooked, was a sort of gipsy hodge-podge or
Salmagundi ; in fact a heterogeneous omnigatherum of all
come-at-able comestibles. In the first place, we had a
quantity of biscuit, the proceeds of the joint contributions of
our havresacs, several pounds bf bacon furnished by Go
vemment, having been procured without leave asked or
obtained, from one of the wagons containing supplies for
Uncle Sam's troops ; and further by supphes obtained by our
party of foragers, one turkey, two fowls, a piece of mutton,
some potatoes, chili peppers, tomatoes, and onions, These
various ingredients being first well cleaned; were cut into

AN EVENING IN THE GUARD-HOUSE, 243
pieces, and the whole compound being seasoned with salt
and pepper, was afterwards boUed in the huge cauldron,
which was propped in the centre of the fioor by three stones,
for the purpose of admitting the fire under it. After our
potage had been sufficiently boiled, we resolved on in-riting
a few of our comrades to the feast, as it 'was evident that
there would be at least twice as much as we could consume,
and it would be a pity that any of our delicious fare should
be lost. Accordingly every one bringing a comrade, we
soon had an addition of ten or twelve more to our party,
forming, about, ten o'clock on the same night, a snug Uttle
party of about twenty.
Everything went off admirably, as the phrase is. The
dish or the mode of cooking it was not perhaps the most
scientific, yet I am persuaded from the celerity with which
it disappeared, and the apparent gusto that marked the pro
cess, that it was relished as highly and gave as much satis
faction as ff it had been the most elaborate specimen of
artistic cookery ever served up at the table of the rnost
aristocratic of the clubs of London. The hilarity of the
evening was wonderfully augmented by the addition to our
company of those comrades who had been invited ; for
several of them, having found their way into a liquor store
in the evening, had filled their canteens with mezcal, a coarse
and not very palatable spirituous liquor, but highly stimulat
ing and intoxicating, and therefore nectar to a soldier on
occasions like the present. This liquor which they had
brought with them, they now produced as their quota to the
feast. To drink ardent spirits when upon guard is strictly
forbidden by the rules of the service, but the absurd strict
ness of the prohibition renders it completely null. I must
say that in the whole course of my experience I never knew
or heard of a soldier refusing a glass of spirits whUe on

244 ADVENTUnES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
guard, on the ground of its being an infringement of mihtary
discipline. Paradoxical as it may .seem, I believe that the
utmost latitude permitted to the soldier in some of these
matters, would, by producing habits of self-control, act as a
far better preventive to the crime of drunkenness than the
present system. Unless a soldier acquires the habit of self-
control as regards the use or abuse of ardent spirits, (and no
person has greater need tP do so), prohibitions and threats
of punishment are rather worse than useless^ — they are mis
chievous : but if he has acquired these habits, these prohibi
tions are not needed.
On the present occasion, however, I felt that there was
uo danger of any of the present company rendering them
selves unfit for duty, as we were all weU aware that we had
work before us next day, for which a night's debauch would
be a sorry preparation. I have observed -that men, careless
of consequences on other occasions, are cautious of aUo-wing
themselves to become intoxicated before an expected engage
ment. This caution on the part of the soldier probably
arises from a dread of' the imputation of cowardice, and a
fear of losing' caste among his comrades, by making it seem
as if he was seeking to supply a deficiency of native stamina
and nerve, through the medium of a foreign and artificial
stimulus and excitement. In some cases also it may be the
result of a knowledge of the dangers of too free indulgence
at a time when all require the perfect use of theh faculties
for the performance of their duties. Soldiers are mostiy
keenly sensitive to the ridicule of their companions, whose
good opinion they generally esteem more highly than that
of their officers. To stand well in the estimation of his
special comrades, and of the company to which he belongs,
is the most powerful incentive to the soldier's 'good conduct
in the field of action ; and in the absence of a brave officer

MILITARY REMEDY FOR INTEMPERANCE, 245
to lead them to the attack, the love of BUl, Tom, br Harry's
approbation, or the dread of being caUed a coward, has often
been the means of gaining the battle.
The following characteristic anecdote, which is highly
iUustrative of that fear of an imputation of cowardice by his
comrades, which is such a marked trait in the soldier's
character, and which seems to have been tumed to excellent
accoimt in the present instance, I heard related by one of
ours who had served in the British Legion during the Iato
Spanish war, A regiment of the British Legion, who were
notorious for their too ardent devotion to Bacchus, unluckily
for their health and discipline, happened to be quartered in
a 'ricinity where brandy was too plentfful and easily procured.
The colonel, being made aware of the case, tried several
remedies without effect, and finaUy, he saw that, unless the
men were con-rinced of the necessity of voluntary abstinence,
no precaution that he could adopt would prevent his regi-^
ment from getting into a state of utter inefficiency. To add
to his difficulties, he expected every day that they would
have to join in an attack on the enemy's position, close to
which the army lay, and he was afraid that if things con
tinued to go on in the way they were doing, both he and
his regiment would reap nothing but disgrace. In this
emergency he issued an order to his men, stating that he
expected an engagement with the enemy shortly, and that
he trusted the men would see the propriety of keeping them
selves sober untU after the battle. For his own part he had
come tp the resolution, that any person of his regiment who
should be reported drunk to him in the interval between
the issuing of the order and the expected engagement, should
be left tied in the camp along with the baggage until after
it should be over. The fear of this dreaded disgrace operat
ed like a charm ; and though the action did not take place

246 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
for near a fortnight after, there was not a single case of
drunkenness during the interval, and his regiment was highly
praised for its share in the action, in which the enemy were
completely routed.
To return to our convivial party in the guard-house, songs
and toasts began to circulate with the aquadiente, -while the
expected battle of next day engrossed a considerable share
of the conversation. " Come, my lads," said Corporal BeU, a
north of Ireland man, who spoke in a broad Scotch dialect,
"here's a toast — May the balls be divided to-morrow, the
same as the pay and the honour." " Bravo 1 Corporal Bell's
.spng — a song from Corporal BeU, ' Bucking and Gagging,' "*
shouted a dozen voices at once. "I say, boys," expostulated
a sentry, looking in, ". you had better not make just so much
noise if you don't want the officer of the day here," " Ay,
faith, freen, ye're no far wrong," said Corporal Bell, while
handing him the' canteen; "here, man, take a drap o' that
to keep the could frae ye'r stohiach, I say, lads," he con
tinued, addressing the party, "we had better ca' canny, or
faith, we'll maybe hae some bucking and gagging instead o'
singing aboot it." "Is it the night before a fight," cries
Mike Ryan ; " by the holy fist of the blessed Saint Patrick,
the mean schaming villians, that are so ready to Ul use a
poor devil at other times, are mighty kind an' ci-ril them
days. The devil a taste o' fear of any bucking an' gagging
for this night any way ; so, if you plase. Corporal BeU, just
favour the present company with a few verses." "Weel,
lads, I'U just sing you a verse or twa aboot bucking ah*
gagging, an' then we maun toddle awa' an' tak' a bit sleep,
an' be ready for our work in the morning." So saying he
* A favourite mode of punishment in the American service. — See
Chapter XXI.

BUCKING AND GAGGING. 247
'> , -
commenced, in a »good'sonoTous but subdued voice, to sing
the foUowing verses :— ^
Come, all Yankee soldiers, give ear to my song.
It is a short ditty, 'twill not keep you long ;
It's of no use to fret on account of our luck,
'We can laugh, drink, and sing yet in spite of the buck.
Derry down, <feo.
" Sergeant, buck him, and gag him," our officers ory,
For each trifling offence which they happen to spy ;
Till -with bucking and gs^ging.of Dick, Tom, and Bill,
Faith, the Mexican^ranks they have helped to fiU.
Derry down, &e.
The treatment they give us, as all of us know,
Is bucking and gagging for whipping the foe ;
They buck us and gag us for malice or spite,
But they're glad to release us when going to fight
Derry do-wn, <fec.
A poor soldier's tied up in the sun or the rain.
With a gag in his mouth till he's tortured with pain ;
¦ypliy Tm bless'd, if the eagle we wear on our flag,
In its claws shouldn't carry a buck and a gag.
~ Derry down, &c.
" What the devil is that ?" cried several voices at once, as
a loud rumbling noise resembling thunder, was heard. On
opening the guard-room door the cause was soon apparent.
The place where we had stabled our horses was an old
.ickety shed, with a shingle roof supported by three rows
of wooden posts, one on each side of the shed and one in
the centre. Running along the centre of the shed, there
was a long wooden trough to which our horses were fastened
by the halters ; several of the horses had been fastened to

248 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
the posts also, which being rotten had given way, and a
large portion of the roof having fallen in on the top of the
horses, they were kicking up a complete rumpus, A sentry,
who was over the horses, was also jammed in amiong them,
and we were afraid he would be injured. Cautioning him
to remain quiet .a little until we got a light, we speedUy
procured a lanthorn, and succeeded in extricating him safely,
and also in'unfastening and leading out the most entangled
among the horses, StiU as it was necessary to remove aU the
horses to some'other place, it being evident that the remain
der of the shed would J)e pulled down if it were not speedUy
done, I thought best to acquaint the offlcer of the day. I,
therefore, sent one ofthe guard to his quarters to teU him the
condition of the shed, and to ask for instructions as to where
the horses should be taken to. The officer sent word back
to have the whole corbpany roused ahd turned out, and that
he would be over presently himseff. Accordingly in a few
minutes he arrived, and having given directions to stretch
the picket rope in the plaza, and lead the horses out and
fasten them to it, in less than half-an-hour everything was
right again. On examining the horses, several of them
were found to have received slight injuries, but nothing to
render them unfit for duty next day. Our party having
been thus suddenly dissolved did not assemble again, and
desirous of recruiting my strength for the next day, I lay
dovra to sleep.

CHAPTER xxm
The field of battle— King's MiU— The Execution— The pursuit
Next morning about 5 o'clock we were roused bythe reveUle
bugle, and ha'ring fed our horses and taken breakfast, we
were ordered to harness the horses, and hitch them in the
carriages. Regiments of infantry continued to arrive and
form in the Plaza until it and the adjacent streets were
crowded, and between 7 and 8 o'clock our force consisting
of about five thousand infantry, two light batteries, and a
squadron of dragoons, began the march for Contreras. The
ground occupied by the enemy had been well reconnoitred
on the previous day ; they were entrenched on the side of a
hUl on the left hand side of the road leading to the city
where they had thrown up embankments of earth, and had
a strong battery of very heavy guns. As it was evident that
to go by the main road would expose us to the fire of this
battery, which we had no means of returning vrith effect,
General Scott had decided on approaching their position by
a circuitous route. We therefore commenced our march
down a country road, leading through orchards and corn
fields, while a great deal of caution was used in advancing,
the division being halted every few minutes and skirmishers
sent out in front and on the fianks. At last after ascending
a steep hill where we had some difficulty with our battery,
having to get a regiment of infantry with drag ropes to assist
us in bringing up our guns and caissons, we came in sight
of the enemy. We halted -within two or three mUes of them,
11*

250 adventures of a soldier in mbxico.
whUe General Scott and his staff ascended a. hill on our
right for the purpose of obtaining a good view of their posi
tion. After resting about ten minutes we received the order
to move on to the attack. The Rifles and another infantry
regiment, were direoted to drive in a body of skirmishers
occupying a cornfield about a mile and a half in front of the
enemy's position, ahd between us and them. Our battery
was to go on at the same time, and take up a position where
it could annoy the enemy. "When we came to the edge of
the cornfield, to admit our battery we had to pull do-wn a
piece of wall built of large pieces of lava piled on one
another in tbe manner in which they build dry stone waUs,
or wbat are called in Scotland dr-y stane dykes. "WhUe we
were busily engaged in pulling down the wall, which took
us a few minutes, as the hea-vy masses of lava required
several' men to roll them one by one out of the way, the
enemy commenced throwing large shells, a few of which
dropped very near, but fortunately without doing us any
injury. In the mean time General Twiggs, who, being in
rear a Uttle, did not perceive the cause of thisMelay,-rode up,
calling out, " Captain Magruder, why don't you go forward
vrith the battery ?" " So I vrill, general, as soon as my men
can remove a piece of the wall which our battery is surely
not expected to clear at a flying leap," was the reply of the
captain. " Well, where are the rifles ?" the general asked,
" why dont they drive in those Mexican vagabonds ; forward
vrith the rifles ; forward with the rifles ; we must either make
a spoon or spoil a horn this day," " Faith I doot some 'o
us 'II no hae muckle mair. use for a spoon after this day's
wark's ower," drily remarked a Scotchman belonging to the
rifles, who was helping to clear the way for our battery.
The rifles, and the other infantry regiment, scrambled over
the wall as our battery began to move, and were soon busily

A GAME AT LONG BQ-WLS. 251
engaged with the enemy, whose balls came whistiing among
us, wounding two of our riders, who had to fall to the
rear. The field or plain over which we were advancing is strewed
-with large masses of lava. Between these we had to thread
our way with the guns and caissons, sometimes brought to
an abrupt halt by a mass of stubborn rock, over which we
had to lift the carriages as if over a wall, the men lifting at
the wheels and the horses whipped to their utmost exertions
at the same time. At last after a great deal of exhausting
fatigue we succeeded in planting our battery in front of the
enemy, in a place where we could produce no impression on
them unless they came out of their entrenchments, which
they showed no disposition to do. Our guns were planted
on a slight rise in front of the enemy, who were on the fuse
of a rugged hill on the other side of the highway to Mexico,
which passed nearly close to their breastworks. Our troops
occupied a plain covered with large masses of lava, that
afforded excellent cover to infantry in skirmishing, and a
deep ravine crossed the bottom of the plain close to the road
to Mexico. We fired twenty or thirty rounds at bodies of
the enemy whom we could see drawn up as if they expected
us to assault them immediately in front, but I think we must
have been about a mile from them, as all our shots seemed
to fall short. A di-rision of the infantry under General
Smith and Colonel Riley engaged vrith a body of the enemy ;
they kept up a brisk fire of musketry all afternoon, but with
out coming to close quarters ; the enemy would not leave
their entrenchments, and General Scott, it was evident,
had not decided on the best mode of making the attack.
The heavy guns of the enemy, among which were several
long eighteens and twenty-four pounders, kept up an inces
sant fire during the whole aftemoon. After the first half

2S2 adventures' of a soldier in mexico.
hour or so, the captain perceiving that our guns were useless .
at the distance we were from the. enemy, ordered us to cease
firing, bring our guns down off the elevation they were
placed on, and Ue down on the ground. By this time one
of our officers. Lieutenant Johnstone, was mortally wounded
by a cannon ball, and another poor fellow caUed Flentitz, a
German, had his leg shot off. Another cannon ball smashed
the axle of one of our pieces, dismounting it and rendering
it useless for the time, while two of our horses were killed,
and a number of our men and horses injured by grape.
They were now beginning to get our range, and nothing but
their excessively bad firing had saved our battery from being
totally annihilated during the half hour in which we had
served as a target, while it was evident that our six-pounders
were useless. We lay therefore completely inactive during
the remainder of the afternoon, under cover of the rising
ground on which our batteiy had been placed. Indeed only
a small portion of our troops were engaged, and I suspect
the whole affair of the afternoon was only a feint for the
purpose of discovering the easiest plan of assault.
At the commencement of the engagement, and as we were
all busUy employed in the loading and ffi-ing our guns, an
infantry sergeant passing within a short distance of our
battery, was observed to drop suddenly as if he had been
struck by a shot. After the firing was over some of the men
went to see ff he was dead, or ff any assistance could be
rendered hhn. He appeared to have been dead for some time,
but there was no mark of a wound on any part of his body.
A small quantity of blood came from his mouth, nostrils, and
even from his ears, and it was supposed that a large ball
passing close to his head had caused his death.
At sunset the firing ceased and a heavy cold rain succeeded,
lasting the whole of that night, and making it a most wretched

A HARD night's WORK. 253
night for a bivouac. To add to our misfortunes we were
all suffering grievously from thirst," and there was no water
vrithin a mUe wherepf we were. Abeut nine o'clock cur
captain received an order to retire on the di-rision by the
same Way in which we had come. This was very foolish, as
the night was so dark that it was impossible to see a yard in
front. But orders whether foohsh or not must be obeyed,
though it is hard to hinder soldiers from grumbling, and
there was. plenty of it at this order, of which every one saw
the absurdity. At last our men having been collected from
various nooks and corners, and our guns limbered up, wo
commenced our singular march to the rear. After toiling
for about six hours, and breaking and damaging the wheels
and carriages, and utterly exhausting both men and horses
in trying to force the -?rheels over impracticable masses of
lava, we were compeUed to desist after moving about, four
or five hundred yards. We then sat or lay do-wn on the
gTass, our clothes clinging to us with wet, and the rain still
pouring, yet so thoroughly were we tired with our fruitless
toil that we slept soundly for two or three hours. We were
roused at day-break and continued our march to the rear
with comparative ease, as we now could distinguish objects
for a few yards round us, and before sunrise. we had gained
the division.
The rain had now ceased, and about ten minutes after our
arrivaL at the division several shots were heard from the
enemy's battei-y followed by a brisk fire of musketry. On
getting up on the top of our caisson boxes we could see a
body of infantry approaching the flank nearest San Augus
tine of the enemy's position. They advanced at a quick
pace loading and firing as they advanced, and recei-ring a fire
of musketry fi-om the Mexican infantry. But none of the
guns of the battery could be brought to bear upon them ; the

254 ADVEUTUHES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
Mexicans had been completely taken by surprise, never having
dreamed of an assault in that direction. As our infantry
approached within a hundred or two hundred yards of theh
breastworks, we could see the Mexicans break and run in the
utmost confusion, scrambling over the breastworks and out
on the road to Mexico, Such was the battle of Contreras ;
and the time occupied in the assault, in which about two
hundred volunteers and half disciplined soldiers, routed thrice
their number of Mexican troops stationed behind formidable
entrenchments, was about five minutes.
The brigade of General Smith, principally composed of
volunteers, have the credit of this assault. These troops
had been marched by a long and difficult route in the wet
dark night to a position where they lay ready to flank and
surprise the enemy as soon as it became sufficiently light for
operations. Colonel Riley and General Smith led their men
gallantly to the assault, which cost the assaulting party a
merely trifling loss in killed and wounded comjiared with
the enemy, who are said to have had upwards of 700 killed
on the field. About 1800 prisoners were taken, and eighteen
guns, besides an immense quantity of ammunition.
The whole of our troops were immediately put in motion
to follow up the success by pursuing the flying enemy,
towards the city of Mexico. As for our battery cm- captain
considered it necessary to allow the hprses a rest, as they were
so weak from' the exertions of the previous day and night,
that they could scarcely stand. We remained therefore in
the neighbourhood of Contreras until the afternoon, most of
the men lying on the grass, and sleeping undisturbed by the
ceaseless booming of the cannon and roll of musketry which
told us of another engagement four or five miles in front.
About five miles from Conti-eras on the highway to the
city, Santa Anna had sti'ongly fortified a smaU vUlage caUed

FATE OF THE DESERTERS. 265
Churabusco. This, our division, which had followed up the
flying enemy fi-om Contreras, assisted General Worth's di-ri
sion in carrying after an obstinate resistance, which lasted
five or six hours. The loss suffered by our army at this
battle of Churubusco amounted to 600 in killed and wounded,
of whom a more than usual proportion were officers. The
regiment to which I belonged had five officers killed and
several wounded in this engagement ; among the killed were
Captains Burke, and Capron, the former of whom enlisted
me, the latter had charge of the company to which I be
longed until promoted a few months before to the captaincy
of another company. Among the prisoners taken at this
engagement were seventy deserters from the American army.
They were tried by a general Court Martial shortly after the
battie, and being found guUty of the crhne of desertion were
sentenced -to be hung, whioh sentence was carried into exe
cution in presence of a portion of the troops shortly before
we entered the city. I sincerely pitied these poor fellows,
many of whom I had reason tp believe had been driven to
the foolish step they had taken by harsh and cruel usage,
operating on a sensitive and excitable temperament. The
barbarous treatment which soldiers sometimes received from
ignorant and brutaf officers, and non-commissioned officers,
on that campaign, were I to relate it in minute detail, would
seem almost incredible. I have frequently seen foolish young
officers violently strike and assault soldiers on the most slight
provocation ; while to tie them up by the wrist, as high as
their hands would reach, with a gag in their mouths, was a
common punishment for trivial offences. In fact such a bad
^ate of feeUng seemed to exist between men and officers
throughout the service that I was not surprised that it should
lead to numerous desertions. If our men had not known
how utterly wretched was the condition of soldiers in the

256 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
Mexican service, deserting to wbich was literaUy jumping
out of the frying-pan into the fire, I beheve that numerous
as these desertions were they would have been infinitely
more so. These deserters were considered a principal cause
of the obstinate resistance which our troops met at Churu
busco, two or three attempts of the Mexicans, to hoist a white
flag having been frustrated by some of them, who kUled the
Mexicans attempting to display it. The large number of
officers kUled in the affair was also ascribed to them, as for
the gratification of their revenge they aimed at no other
objects during the engagement.
In the evening our battery moved to Churubusco, and
next day we were sent along with our division to a small
vUlage called Miscoac, about two miles from Chumbusco,
and about the same distance, four miles, from the city.
There we were quartered in one end of a chureh, a regiment
of infantry called Voltigeurs, occupying the other end, A
few days after the battle, Santa Anna and General Scott
agreed to an armistice, the former General pretending that
he was inclined to come to terms and conclude the war on
the basis of an honourable treaty of peace. For agi-eeing to
this armistice General Scott was much blamed at the time
by many of the men, as it was said that we could easily have
taken the city if -we had followed up our success after the
battles of Contreras and Churubusco, I have no doubt that
we could have done so, although I am inclined to think that.
the difficulty of restraining our troops from the commission
of excess, would have been. much greater if our success had
been followed up at that time, A collision between the mass
of the inhabitants and our troops in that case would mo^
likely have ensued, which would have engendered a hostile
spirit of opposition that might have embittered and prolonged
the war, of which the Americans were now almost as tired as

AN ARMISTICE. 257
the Mexicans, - By snowing a desire for peace after these vic
tories, he secured the good wUl of many of the influential
inhabitants, and I believe it is chiefly owing to the spirit of
oonciliation and moderation displayed by General Scott
throughout the whole of the Campaign that America owes
the speedy and honourable termination of the war.
The principal terms of the armistice were that neither
army should erect any fortifications nor receive any reinforce
ments of troops vrithout gi-ring the other army forty-eight
hours' notice. Our army was also to be fumished with
supplies of provisions and forage from the city. But Santa
Anna, who only wanted to gain time, had thousands of
soldiers employed in digging ditches and making fortifica
tions of earth at various points of the city, parties of them
working day and night under his own direction. About the
fourth or fifth of August a party of our waggons, in agree
ment with one of the conditions of the armistice, ha'ring
been sent into the city for supplies of forage and prorisions,
the drivers were attacked by a crowd of people with stones,
and a number of them severely injured. A party of Mexican
soldiers were tardily sent to their rescue, who protected them
out of the city. General Scott now declared the armistice
to be at an end.
On the morning of the 9th August, General Worth's divi
sion, which was quartered at Tacubaya, according to orders,
previously received, proceeded to make an attack on Molino
del Rey (The King's mill). The enemy, it was believed, had a
foundry for casting cannons there, besides a great quantity
of military stores. It was also considered necessary to have
it in possession before proceeding to the reduction of Chapul
tepec, to which it formed a strong outwork. The attack
commenced a little before sunrise, but the enemy ha-ring
been informed of this early visit, had drawn all their troops

268 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
from the city during the night, who were posted in the most
advantageous manner. Accordingly on the advance of our
troops they received a most destructive fire, which compelled
them to fall back, lea-ring the field covered with their killed
-and wounded. The Mexican lancers exhibited most charac
teristically both their cowardice and cruelty of disposition
on this occasion, by riding out and killing the wounded who
were lying on the field, while they never attempted to follow
up the broken line of infantry who had been compelled to
retire. But our troops though discouraged were not beaten,
and after a fight of two hours, the Mexicans, who were at
least four times their number, retreated, leaving them in
possession of the field. The victory, though proving the
immense superiority of our troops to those of the enemy,
was a dear one, our loss in -killed and wounded being
between eight and nine hundred out of a force engaged
numbering little more than three thousand.
About an hour after the commencement of the action our
battery was ordered to be got ready and to hurry out to the
ground. Miscoac, where we lay, is about four miles from
Molino del Bey, and the road being rough and up hill a
good part of the way, it took us nearly an hour to reach it.
One of our men not holding on ffi-mly whUe galloping over
the rough road was thrown off the caisson box, and a wheel
passing over his body broke two or three of his ribs and
other-wise severely injured him. But our battery was short
of men, and the captain could spare nobody to attend him, so
he was left by the roadside in a seemingly dying state. He
recovered, however, and was discharged in consequence of
the internal injuries he had received. As we entered the
battle ground we met a number of waggons retuming with
wounded, and a few wounded soldiers walking slowly, assist
ed by one or two comrades. There was an occasional gun

MOLINO DEL REY. 269
fired from the castle of Chapultepec, and a party of our
infantry kept up a skirmishing fire with a few of the enemy
who were in the woods round the hill on which the castie
is buUt, but the battle was evidently over. We unlimbered
our guns and fired several shots at a large body of lancers
who were hovering on our left flank, when they suddenly
wheeled tp the right-about, " I wish, captain, you would let
them come a little nearer the next time ; you scared them
rather too soon," said General Cadwallader, who came up
as the lancers rode off, A powder magazine belonging to
the enemy, but in our possession at the time, blew up with a
tremendous explosion, kiUing and wounding a great number
of our men who were in its vicinity. We remained on the
field, -with several regiments of infantry and cavalry, untU
about noon, when we received orders to retire.
On the morning of the 12 th of August our battery moved
along with General PiUow's division to the field of Molino
del Bey ; our division being stationed there for the purpose
of protecting a heavy battery advantageously planted in the
vicinity for the bombardment of Chapultepec. This castle, a
strong stone building, well fumished with artillery arid am
munition, is buUt on the top of an insulated rocky hUl,
wooded from ;the base about half way up. As it commanded
the entrance to the city on that side, it was considered essen
tial that it should, be taken. At daybreak on the morning
of the 12th, our mortars opened on it and continued to
throw heavy shells into it until night, by which time the
havoc among the troop, inside must have been very great,
judging from the appearance of the building after the action.
After the firing had ceased in the evening General PUlow
addressed his men, telling them that they wfere to assault
the castle early next morning, when he said he had no doubt
they would easily carry it at the point of the bayonet in less

260 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
than half an hour ; which intimation the soldiers received
vrith three cheers.
The duty assigned our battery was to approach the bottom
of the hill of Chapultepec and throw in shells and round
shot into the wood and up the face of the hUl, for the pur- .
pose of' driving in the enemy and affording a footing to our
assaulting party. We accordingly placed our guns that
evening in the position they were to occupy next morning,
and shortly after sunrise we received orders to commence
firing. An ill-directed fire of musketry from the enemy's
outlying piquets stationed in the woods, reached us as we
commenced, firing, slightly wounding several of our men.
But a few shells thrown in the i-ight direction soon removed
that source of annoyance, and where vre were the guns of
the castle could not be depressed sufficiently to bear on us.
We continued to fire until we had thrown over a hundred
shots into the grounds, when we were told to cease firing and
allow the infantry to advance. Two or three regiments of
infantry, among whom I recognised the regiment of Volti
geurs who had been stationed vrith us in the church since the
battle of Contreras, now advanced, some of them carrying a
ladder between two of them besides their guns and bayonets.
To get into the grounds they had to scale a wall about six or
seven feet high, and with the aid of the ladders they were
soon all over, and advancing under cover of the huge trees
towards the open rocky ground haff way up the JiiU.
'WhUe the action was going on bete at Chapultepec, a
strangely horrible scene was being enacted under General
Twiggs at Miscoac, the small town in which our division had
been quartered during the armistice. Twenty of the desert
ers who were taken at Churubusco had been brought out on
a plain for execution. General Twiggs commanding the troops
appointed to -witness the sentence carried into effect. From

A DOSE OF GRAPE. 261
the plain where they were to be executed they had a view of
the castie of Chapultepec about three miles distant, and
could hear the sound of the firing, and see distinctly the
smoke of the guns and muskets of its defenders and assail
ants, and here they were launched into eternity.
"While the infantry advanced on the castle we hitched the
horses intp the battery and stood waiting to pursue the
enemy, who we were confident would not make a long re
sistance, as the bombardment of the previous day had Sbne
great execution on the buUding. The firing from the castle
soon commenced on our assaulting party, who at first suf
fered severely, but after about two hours' hard fighting they
scaled the steep ascent and drove the enemy from the ram
parts. General Bravo and several hundred of the Mexican
soldiers were taken prisoners in the castle. The remainder
of the garrison escaped by the opposite side of the castle
from which our troops entered, and "ran in confusion along
the highway to the city. Just as we commenced to follow
in pursuit, a shower of grape from the castie killed two
horses and wounded several others, while almost miraculously
their riders did not receive the sUghtest injury. The shot
came fi-om a gun at an angle of the castie, which continued
to flre for some time after our men had gained the ramparts,
and until our men had shot down the most of those whp
were working it. This delayed our battery several minutes
until we cut the harness and hauled the horses to one side
of the rOad, Near the place where this accident occurred
the enemy had cut a trench across the road, which delayed
us some time until it was filled up. "While a party of infan
try were at work filling up the trench, two citizens of the
class called army followers rode over to where three Mexican
soldiers were endeavouring to conceal themselves behind
some bushes about a quarter pf a mUe eff the road. The

262 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
Mexicans, who were probably wounded and unable to fly
vrith the rest of the garrison, got upon their knees in the
attitude of suppUcation, when these inhuman scoundrels
deliberately shot them dovm by firing repeated shots of their
revolvers. A loud murmur of disapprobation at this atro
ciously savage act burst from the soldiers on the road who
observed it, and a ball from an infantry soldier's musket
whistled past their ears as they approached the road. On
their return they received a shower of curses and epithets,
showing the detestation in which their infamous conduct was
held. The ditch being fflled up we continued the pursuit of the
fiying enemy, and as we went at a fast gallop we had soon
left the infantry far behind, and found ourselves entirely
unsupported. A large body of the enemy's cavalry were
now perceived advancing on us from the city ; we imme
diately unlimbered and began to fire sheU and round shot
among them with the utmost rapidity, when they made
a precipitate retreat. Several riderless horses scouring wildly
over the fields on our left, which none of them stayed to
catch, and which were valuable prizes to- some of our infen-
try afterwards, showed us that our firing had made an
impression, and explained the reason of their sudden change
of purpose. If these lancers had charged us boldly, they
could have cut us to pieces and taken possession of our
battery with ease, as we had no suppprt -within a mile of us.
Our company only numbered at that time about sixty men,
armed vrith sabres, which none of them knew how to use,
and which would have been a poor defence against their
lances. A body of cavah-y and infantry arriving soon after,
we continued our march until we arrived at the suburbs of
the city. Here our battery and a regiment of infantry were
posted to defend a road leading to Toluco, on which a large

ROUT OF THE MEXICANS, 263
body of the enemy's cavalry had been observed moving off
in the morning. Colonel Duncan's battery and a regiment
of infantry were now engaged in driving the enemy from the
San Cosmo gate, half a mile nearer the city. Here the
enemy had a breastwork of earth buUt across the road,
behind which were two nine-pounders. There was also a
mortar on the fiat ropf of a house on the left of the gate,
several shells from which dropped into our position, kilUng
and wounding a number of the infantry stationed with us to
defend the entrance to the city from Toluco. This was also
carried after two or three hours' fighting, lea-ring us in com
plete possession of that entrance to the city.
Generals Worth and Quitman had commenced their attack "
on the opposite side of the city early in the morning, and
after driving the enemy from several of their outworks in
sijecession, had succeeded after a severe fight in carrying the
citadel by assault, ' The latter was the enemy's stronghold,
where they had a strong battery of heavy guns, and after it
was taken the Mexican troops retired in disorder from the
city by the Penon and Guadaloupe gates, having utterly
abandoned all idea of further resistance. Their large army
of 18,000 men was now completely scattered and disorgan
ized, and this by a force not exceeding one-third of their
number, acting as assailants, and having to drive them from
strong fortifications. Santa Anna, according to his usual
custom, retired with a strong body of cavalry before ¦ our
troops had gained possession of the citadel. He has not
entered the capital since, and I question if all his cunning
will ever be sufficient to reinstate him in the good opinions
of any large or influential class of his countrymen again.
Some desultory fighting took place on the foUowing day, the
14th, between om troops and parties of patriots, principally
criminals who had been released frem their cells and sta-

264 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
tioned in the steeples of churches for the purpose. These
were soon quelled, and before night the city was perfectly
quiet, and considered quite securely in cm- possession.
General Scott entered the city on the 14th, the day after the
battle of Chapultepec and the storming of the citadel. By
his excellent arrangements in quartering his troops in the
suburbs for a few days, he succeeded in securing order, and
. preserving his men .fi-om those excesses which might have
been apprehended from the description of troops under his
command.

CHAPTER XXIV.
Ravages of "W"ar — Entry into San Cosmos-Character of the popu
lation — Markets — ^The cemetery.
We had now reached the halls of the Montezumas, and still
the honourable peace, with the sole design, of conquering
which America protested she had taken up arms, seemed to
elude our grasp. The legislative body had retired to Quere
taro, vowing war to the knife, and it was said that a con
siderable portion of the routed army had collected there also.
In the meantime they were .^fortifying Queretaro, and pre
paring for another struggle ; and, according to the current
opinion, the war, so far from being ended, was only just
commencing. But just at present the patriots might debate,
and the troops might fortify at their leisure, our force was
small enough to garrison the capital without marching on
new conquests. These victories, gained with ease, if one
takes into account the number of the enemy, and the
advantages of their position, had not been altogether without
cost. In the short space of six weeks, our force had de
creased from ten thousand effective men with which we left
Puebla, to little more than six thousand on entering the city
of Mexico, In the various actions fought in the vicimty of
the city during that time, we had lost in killed and wounded
upwards of two thousand, and the deaths from disease and
the large number of sick reduced our total effective strength
to little more than six thousand. In our short campaign of
about a year and a haff. General Scott's expedition alone, it
12

266 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
is said, cost the lives of at least ten thousand men ; the pro
portion of those who died of sickness being as four to one of
those kihed or who died in consequence of wounds received
in action. I saw a statement in an American paper estimat
ing the loss of life incurred by the States during the whole
war vrith Mexico at thirty thousand. Five thousand of
these were said to have died- on the field and of wounds
received) and the remainder of the diseases incidental to the
campaign. Nearly aU the houses in the suburbs of the city outside of
the San Cosmo gate, had been deserted by their inhabitants,
many of them evidently very hurriedly, as they still con
tained quantities of fumiture, books, pictures, and other
valuable articles. A number of wealthy people had resided
in that, quarter, the only suburb containing similar residences
in the city. From a feeling of curiosity I entered one of
these houses vrith several soldiers belonging to our battery
on the moming after the city was taken. It had belonged
to a General of the Mexican army, whose family had just
quitted it when they saw the Mexican flag pulled down from
the castle of Chapultepec. A number of oil paintings,
chiefly on religious subjects, and a large collection of books
in the Spanish language in rich bindings, among which I
recognised Don Quixote, with Ulustrations, lay scattered in
cPnfusipn on the tables and floors, with the Utter of aU the
drawers in the apartment. Among other articles we ob
served a number of children's dresses, and a variety of toys
and dolls, I cotUd scarce help thinking what an event in
those children's lives who were old enough to retain the
impression, the arrival of los Americanos, the fightings in
the -ricinity, and their hurried flight from home would seem,
when they gi-ew old. It -wUl form a theme for them to recur
to during the remainder of their hves, A number of sol-

THE CAPTURED CITY, 267
diers, most of whom seemed actuated by curiosity more than
love of acquisition, stroUed through the different apartments.
OccasionaUy a soldier would select a few articles, intending
to carry them off, but on reflecting on the trouble he would
have in taking care of them, they were again pitched down
on the floor. A number of the chairs and tables, and a large
mirror, had been broken in sheer wantonness by some of our
men. I saw one fellow, after examining admiringly a very-
handsome cabinet of finely-polished wood, exquisitely ve-^
neered and inlai^ vrith mother-of-pearl and ivory, sei^e a leg
of a broken chair and deliberately smash it to pieces,
exclaiming at the same time, " D — n you, if I x;an't have
you nobody else shall,"
For a few days after the entrance of our troops into
Mexico, the shops were all closed, -with the exception of one
here and there, and the prevailing aspect of the place was
that of a deserted city. But in less than a week things had
assumed their usual appearance, the shops being all open,
and the streets busily thronged with population. The
¦ officers and soldiers of our army also thronged the principal
thoroughfares, gratifying their curiosity by an inspection of
the celebrated arcbitectm-al features of the splendid city.
For several weefe after our entrance, a number of the houses
continued to display the flag of some foreign nation from
their rpofs or -windows, as a signal of their neutrality and a
claim for protection. Among these, thcEnglish, the French;
and the Spanish, predominated ; but the flags of almost evei-y
European nation were to be seen flying from some of the
buUdings, From all that I observed or learned, however,
those houses which displayed none were respected equally
with thpse which did. There were a few, and only a few,
isolated attempts at phmdering by small parties of niffians,
some pf whom are always ready to seize the opportunity.

268 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
offered by these occasions. But these parties were equaUy
discouraged, many of their number being shot by the
inhabitants, who defended their property bravely, when they
found the scoundrels trying to force into their premises ;
showing that even Mexicans -wUl flght, when they have
something worth fighting for. In fact for several nights
after our -rictory, the number of dead bodies of soldiers found
on the streets, was a propf that midnight robbery and plun
der was about as difficult, and fully more dangerous, than in
many cities of the States, To put a stop to these proceed
ings, strong patrols were sent through the streets at night,
to apprehend soldiers found out of their quarters, and for the
preservation of good order, and the security of Iffe and
property. These measures tended to assure the inhabitants
of General Scott's good intentions ; and in a very short time
the most cPmplete confidence was restored, and the inha
bitants and soldiers mingled everywhere on mutual good
terms. That a number of individual cases of ruffianism did
occur dming the campaign it would be absurd to deny. I
believe scoundrelism exists to a large extent in the best
constituted armies ; but considering the description of troops
of which our army was composed, and the loose state of
discipline prevalent, I think the crimes and outrages com
mitted by our army were comparatively few, I would even
go fm-ther, and say that I think the army at large deserve
credit for the general tenor of, their conduct towards the
inhabitants throughout the whole of the campaign, A
considerable portion of this result may be justly ascribed to
the conciliatory system adopted and uniformly acted upon
by General Scbtt
After remaining at the gate of San Cosmo for a few days,
our battery moved into the city, where we found tolerable
quarters in a large Meson, On~ entering the city. General

THE CITY OF MEXICO. 269
Scott demanded from the Mexican authorities, the sum of
200,000 dollars, as compensation for the hardships suffered
by the troops in taking the city, and as the price of the pro
tection extended by the American army to all descriptions
of property. One half of this sum was to be expended for
the benefit of the sick soldiers, and those doing duty were to
be furnished with a new blanket and two pairs of boots each
vrith the other haff. The Mexican Ayuntamiento (town
council) cheerfully complied vrith this moderate demand,
very glad apparently to escape so easily. We bad now
leisure to take a walk occasionally through this strange city,
which so intimately blends the extremes of splendour and
squalor, dirt and grandeur. Of some of the more prominent
featmes in it I wUl attempt to give an idea, though perfectly
aware how utterly inadequate aU description of mine is to
convey anything like a correct impression of the city as a
whole. The city of Mexico, which was commenced in 1624, is
built on piles. The streets are sufficiently vride, and run
nearly north and south, east and west, intersecting each
other at right angles. They are all weU paved, and have
side walks of flat stones, which are worn so smooth as to be
quite slippery, and in some places rather dangerous to the
incautious pedestrian. In looking along any of the streets
in Mexico, the fronts of several churches or other religious
buUdings are prominent objects from almost any point of view.
The quaint, old-fashioned, and mixed style of architecture
peculiar to these buildings, which are usually highly orna
mented with carving and sculpture, .and painted with themost
brilUant colours, which the purity of the atmosphere pre
serves unimpaired for a long time (charcoal being the only
fuel consumed in Mexico), gives a highly picturesque appear
ance to the streets, such as I have never seen in any other

270 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
city. The public squares are spacious, and smrounded by
buUdings of hewn stone, and of very gopd architecture. The
private buildings being constructed either of porous amygda
loid, or of porphyry, have an air of solidity, and even of
grandeur. They are of three and four stories high, with flat
ten-ace roofs, and many of them are ornamented with iron
balconies. The houses of Mexico are aU square, vrith open
courts. The corridors or piazzas of these courts are orna
mented with large porcelain vases, in which are planted the
most beautiful and rare flowers and evergreens that money
can procure, A magnifloo who ovraed one of these houses
had retired 'with his family to a country residence, when our
troops were attacking the city ; and, as was customary at
that time, one of our Generals entered into possession of it.
The owner had left the principal part of his fm-niture in the
house, which appeared to give him no concern ; but he came
frequently to look at his flowers, and finally sent a servant
to live there for the purpose of attending to them. He said
they had cost him 2,000 doUars, and he would not part vritb
them for double that sum. Many of those courts have
fountains in the centre, which, vrith the shade of the high
buUdings surrounding, and the flowers and evergreens ranged
along the balustrades, or projecting from the railings of the
piazza, give a refreshing coolness to their seclusion. The
entrances to these houses lead through magnfficent arch
ways in the centre of the buildings; generally from ten. to
fifteen feet high, and surmounted by carved and prpjecting
pediments. These are closed at night by large folding gates,
three or four inches thick, and studded with large bolts of
iron, or covered with plates of the same metal, or of copper.
A small postern, which opens inside, is used until morning,
and is attended by a^ domestic called the porteria, until all
the household have retired for the night AU the lower

LADRONES AXD LEPEROS. 271
windows, and in many cases tbose in the second story also,
are guarded by ii-on bars — a precaution coramon throughout
the whole country, where a man's hpuse is bis castle in the
most literal sense of the term. But these precautions are
indispensable, as there are no banks or issues of paper money
in Mexico ; and merchants and gentleraen have consequentlv
immense quantities of specie in their houses, araounting to
hundreds of thousands of doUai-s iu many cases. Indians
may be seen in some of the business-streets, ti'udging along
with bags of dollars on their shouldei-s, at all hours of the
day — of course they are always in charge of a clerk or other
responsible agent
Such are the palaces of the rich : the abodes pf ppverty
are not in the interior of the city. Reversing the usual
custom of England and America, the suburbs are almost
wholly occupied by the lowest portion of the community,
the ladrones and leperos (the thieves and beggars), with
the lower class of itinerant vendore of paltry commodities,
and labourers. It is calculated that 20,000 of the inhabit
ants of this capital, the population of which does not exceed
150,000, have no permanent place of abode,- and no ostensi
ble means of gaining a livelihood. After passing the night,
sometimes in the open air, sometimes under cover, they issue
forth in the morning to prey upoa the community. If they
are fortunate enough to gain more than they require to
maintain themselves for a day, they get drunk on pulque
and mezcal, a brandy distilled from pulque, wrap themselves
up in their blanket, and Ue down under a church porch, or
any convenient shelter that may, offer.
The ladrones are the sharpers and higher class of pick
pockets in Mexico. They go well dressed, and would
scarcely be taken for thieves by their appearance, except by
a jierson acquainted with their habits. They are very dex-

272 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
terous in levying contributions upon the public ; and some
of their ingenious stratagems, having that object in view,
would do no discredit to the genius of a London or Parisian
adept The leperos are the canaille of rascaldom ; they cora
bine the professions of thief and beggar ; they want the
inventive genius of the ladrones, fly at lower game, and have
a dirty and suspicious appearance, that would put an obser
vant person on his guard. It is said that they are occasion
ally employed by the rich and jealous to put a successful
rival out of the way, or to revenge some insult, after the
manner of Spain and Italy. When our troops first entered
the city, a great number of our men fell by the knives of
these miscreants, being stabbed by them when stroUing
intoxicated through the suburbs and low quarters of the city
at night. In fact, so numerous were these _street assassina
tions for several nights, that General Scott issued an order
adverting to the tact, and cautioning soldiers against lea-ring
their quarters, unless in small parties and well armed. But
a more effectual check was put to this evil by the men
themselves, a number of whom, irritated by these cowardly
assassinations, resolved on applying the lex talionis, and
sacrificing a few of those fiends to the manes of their
slaughtered comrades. Armed with bowie-knives and re
volvers, several of them saUied forth late at night, and
counterfeiting the actions of drunkenness, they killed a
number of those whom they suspected of designs of that
nature. This was a harsh remedy ; but desperate diseases
require desperate remedies. Certain it is that this mode of
treatment operated an effectual cure, as the leperos gi-ew
very shy of approaching drunken soldiera afterwards, or even
of being out in the streets at a late hour. After this there
were few cases of soldiers being stabbed in the streets ; but \
during the eight mouths our army bccupied the city, it was

MEN OF LETTERS, 27-3
an invariable practice of the soldier in walking the streets
alone late at night, to draw his weapon,- sabre, bayonet, or
pistol, and in suspicious places to prefer the middle of the
road. A very disgusting feature in the street scenery of Mexico
while we lay there, was the number of drunken Indians and
Mexicans of low caste, both male and female, who roamed
the streets in a state of beastly intoxication. They were
often to be seen lying -across the footwalks of the most pubhc
streets and thoroughfares, especially in the vicinity of the
market, dead drunk, and often in a state of almost complete
nudity. The police seemed to take.no notice of them, and
they were allowed to wallow there like hogs until sufficiently
recovered to get up and stagger off.
The letter-writers, Fvangelistas, whose occupation consists
of writing letters, memorials, petitions, &c., for those who
have not acquired the art and mystery of writing, are a
numerous and notable class in Mexico. Thirty or forty of
them were constantly to be found ranged along the edge of
the parapet, in a street adjpining the market, seated pn
stools, and with small tables in fi-ont of them placed on the
carriage-road. Their stock in trade consists of a basket
containing a few sheets of paper, pens, and ink-horns. They
write a very plain and distinct hand, but they write slow,
and ornament their writing by a profusion of flourishes, as
all Mexican clerks do. A sheet of paper containing a speci
men of their handwriting is usually exhibited on the table
where they sit. To judge from their appearance, they did
not appear to be a very thriving craft. , But as my comrade
BUl Nutt remarked, whUe commenting on their poverty-
stricken appearance, "An armed republic is not the place
for the encouragement of men of letters."
In front of all the churches, in all of which mass is cele-
12*

274 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
brated daUy, there were always congregated a multitude of
beggars, exposing deformities and frightful ulcers, and
chanting with endless monotony their " caridad por Vamor
de Dieu'^ (charity for the love of God). Many of them were
cripples who had lost their limbs in the civil wars and revo
lutions, of such frequent recurrence lately in Mexico. Their
number had also been augmented by the late battles with
our troops. I have frequently seen them hold up the stump
of an amputated arm, or leg, when an American officer or
soldier was passing, and repeat the names of the engage
ments in which they had lost theni, as " Cerro Gordo,"
"Chapultepec," &c., adding a few imprecations on Santa
Anna, an ingenious ruse, which often extracted a few clacos
from their generous victors. Soldiers disabled while serving
in the army are specially permitted by the Government to
beg, as a compensation fpr the wounds they have received
in the ser-rice of the repubUc. Certainly a most economical
mode of quartering pensioners on the public, and a practical
Ulustration of the voluntary system, remarkable in a nation
so far behind in the doctrines of our modern political
economists. The market is a spacious square near the Plaza, -with a
tall column in the centre, on which stands a statue of Santa
Anria. Fruits and vegetables are the staple commodities of
which the supply is most abundant. The stalls are formed
in lines facing each other, leaving ample space between the
rows for purchasers. They are decked with a variety of
beautiful flowers, which are always in great demand for the
adornment of shrines, or to grace a festival or a funeral.
From nine to eleven o'clock in the forenoon the buzz and
bustle of the place are at their height, at which time it pre
sents a very animated appearance, being thronged with
Mexicans of every class and colour, from the pure Spanish

PULQUBRIAS, 275
haughty-looking senora, down to the poor, shrinking, bare
footed, elfin-looking and half-naked Indian girls, with their
baskets of fruits or vegetables, English^ potatoes are sold
here at about twopence a pound. They are of very good
quaUty, but from their dearness in comparison with other
commodities, the yield is probably very small. Cabbages,
turnips, and other vegetables of the English garden, are
plentiful and moderately cheap. Of fruits, I saw abundance
of apples, peaches, pears, and other fruits of temperate
climates, with almost every variety of tropical fruits. The
quantities of capsicums, and peppers of every shape, size,
and colour, which one sees in a market in Mexico, seem to
a European most ludicrously disproportionate to the rest of
the commodities. Huge baskets of them meet the eye
everywhere, or they are piled up in heaps on a mat, or piece
of coarse cloth on the gi-ound. These peppers, which they
call chili, are, when dried and ground, the cayenne pepper
used in England. All classes of the inhabitants use them to
almost every article of food, and every tienda or grocery is
fumished with an unfaUing supply of this indispensable
condiment, dried, squeezed flat, and packed in boxes like
raisins. The pulquerias, shops where pulque is sbld, are very
numerous in the city of Mexico. They are all very gaudily
painted in brilliant water colours, or fresco, from the top to
the bottom of the walls inside, vrith representations of land
scapes, animals, battles, &c., the subject of the painting
being illustrative of the title of the pulqueria. These paint
ings, tbough ofa rather exaggerated description, are generaUy
executed with considerable artistic skUl and taste. The
pulquerias are furnished -with a row of large open tubs, kept
scmpulously clean, containing the pulque, which arrives from
the country fresh every morning, and is generally disposed

276 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO. -'
of and the shop closed befpre evening. These shops are the
constant resort of a number of leperos, Indians, and greasers ;
the latter term generally appUed by the American army to
the male portion of the Ibv/er class of Mexicans, is of ratber
obscure derivation. A genius of our company, "Ned Loner
gan," gave the following definition : — "Greaser," quoth Ned,
" is plainly a corruption of kreeser, and the term has originat
ed from their custom of using the khife, a knife for stabbing
being called a kreese in the East Indies," However, a plain
matter of fact being suggested, that the term probably owed
its origin to a greasy appearance they had from the habitual
disuse of soap, Ned's ingenious definition was considered
demolished. These greasers, and a sprinkling of leperos,
and haff-clad Indians, male and female, congregate in and
around the pulqueria perpetually ; now quarrelling and
fighting, now bugging and kissing each other, and occasion
aUy joining in some popular song in praise of their favourite
liquor. The burden of one of these songs runs thus, " "Who
does not love pulque, the divine liquor which the angels
drink in heaven ?"
In the -riUage of Miscoac, about four, or five miles from
Mexico, where the division to which I belonged was stationed
during the truce after the batties of Contreras and Churu
busco, there were several plantations of the maguey ; and I
have frequently seen their mode of treating the plant for the
extraction of its juice. When the plant is on the point of
flowering, which occurs from its flfth to its tenth year, accord
ing to spu and situation, they cut out the central part or
heart, whioh should bear the flowers, and scoop out a portion
of the interior pith, lea-ring a round cavity or reservoir, capa
ble of containing from one to two gallons according to the
size and capacity pf the plant. The entrance to the cavity,
whioh is abput five or six inches in diameter, is carefuUy

MODE OF COLLECTING THE PULQUE. 277
covered vrith a flat stone to prevent the evaporation of the
juice, and to hinder the cattle, who are very fond of it, from
drinking it Plants will yield from a gallon to a gallon and
a half a-day for a period of four or flve months, when the
juice ofthe plant being exhausted it withers and dies. The
foUowing is the mode of collecting the juice. The man who
collects it carries a pig-skin on his back, one end of which is
attached to his right shoulder ; the other end,-containing the
mouth of the skin, he carnes over his left shoulder, holding it
vrith his left hand. In his right hand he has a hoUow gourd
about two insbes in diameter at the thick end, and tapering
to a point ; it is about eighteen inches long and perforated
at each end. Thus equipped he goes along the rows of the
maguey (or agaves), and removing the stone from the cavity,
he inserts the thick end of the gourd, and applying his mouth
to the hole at the small end he rapidly flUs it by suction ; then
putting his thumb on the hole to exclude the air, he vrith-
.draws the gourd full of the liquor, and transfers its contents
to the pig-skin. It is generaUy collected in the morning
and evening only, though it is sometimes also collected at
noon. When taken from the plant it is sweet, and in taste
and appearance somewhat resembles sugar and water. It is
then poured into- barrels or tubs, when it soon undergoes
the fermenting process, ' which converts it into pulque.
After it has fermented about twenty-four hours it has
a pleasant sweet subacid taste, and is called pulque fresco
(fresh pulque) ; when a day older it is called pulque fuerte
(thorpughly fermented pulque) ; it has then a slightly putrid
smell, and tastes very acidulpus ; most seem to prefer it in
the latter stage. It is nearly as intoxicating as EngUsh ale,
and in Mexico is sold for about sixpence a quart ; but in the
country it is a great deal cheaper. The pulquerias in Mexico
are all kept by men, and theh owners are invariably fat

278 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
As they are the oiUy fat class, and indeed with the excep
tion of a few priests, the only fat individuals I saw in Mexico,
it would seem to possess the property of fattening in no
small degree. It is reckoned a wholesome beverage by
Europeans as well as Mexicans, and our surgeons generally
recommended its use to our men as a cure for diarrhoea and
bowel complaint. They distil a strong intoxicating sphitu-
ous liquor from pulque, which they call Mexcal ; it has a sort
of smoky taste, very much resembling Irish poteen.
The gi-and cathedral is situated at one end of the Grand
Plaza, the spacious square affording full display to the archi
tectural beauties of a very large and finely-proportioned
building, the front pf which has a very imposing effect when
viewed from the extreme end of the square. On a near -riew,
however, the carving in front of the building exhibits a con
siderable degree of the gingerbread style of architecture. But
it is in the interior that one sees most to admire. The mag
nificence and splendour of the grand altar, and the numerous
shrines that adorn the walls of the vast pile, astonish equally
by the profusion, the richness, and the variety of their
decorations. The interior of the dome is very well painted
¦with scriptural subjects, and as they receive a good light,
and the colours are briUiant, the paintings show with admira
ble effect from the floor of the cathedral. There are a num
ber of good paintings in the building, though I believe none
of any extraordinary merit ; rich and gaudy ornaments, aod
gilding, being eridently more appreciated than the works of
the celebrated masters. A picture occupying the left side
of the grand altar, as we advanced by the principal entrance,
attracted the attention of our party. It was a representation
of purgatory, and a number of priests,- bishops, and digni
taries of the Church in full canonicals, and with mitre, crozier,
and other insignia of their office, appeared in the foreground,

THE ALAMEDA. 279
as the principal figures, tossing in agony amidst the flames.
These wretched-looking beings, who one would think ought
to have been stripped , of their govms if worthy of such
severe discipline, seemed vainly imploring the assistance of
the angels and cherubs, who hovered round for the purpose
of rescuing those sufficiently purified. Several of these
angels were engaged in ascending to heaven with a -wretched-
looking lepero, or ragged beggar, whUe those who remained
seemed unanimously of opinion that the churchmen were
not yet entitied to theh offices. " WeU, Findlay, what would
your countryman John Enox say if he could rise from his
grave and see aU the splendour of this building ?" asked Nutt,
of a Scotchman belonging to our party, as we were quit
ting the cathedral. " Hoot man ! he would just say it was
ane ofthe richest diamonds on the whore o' Babylon's petti
coat," was the somewhat characteristic reply of honest
Findlay. The Alameda is a large square about a mUe and a half in
circunfference, thickly planted with magnificent umbragecus
tiees, and intersected with spacious walks bordered with
flowering shrubs and adorned with fountains and jets d'eau.
Being a most delicious shady retreat, and within a short
distance of the most central part of the city, it is much
resorted to in warm weather by all classes. There is a fine
shady avenue for equestrians all round it, while in the
interior walks',.*ich and splendidly dressed dons and donnas
i-ub shoulders with the blanketed lepero, Exclusivism at
least is a -rice that has no footing in Mexico, and the extreme
ends of society jostle each other without that air of defiant
surprise which their casual encounter seems to ehcit in some
more highly enhghtened countries.
The burial gromid of Santa Maria deserves -notice. It is
situated on the outskirts of the town, and is enclosed with a

280 ADVENTURES OP A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
thick "wall about fifteen feet high and ten thick. In the
inside of this wall, from the bottom to the top, there are
recesses in regular order, into which the coffins are inserted,
a plate containing the epitajDh being placed over the end of
each coflSn, and cemented into the wall. Thereis a piazza
round the inside of the wall, and a number of the coffins
have shrines in front of the epitaph plates, which are lit up
on festival nights, when the burial ground is a favourite
promenade of the relatives and friends of the deceased inter
red there. .The area of the burying ground, which contains
about ten or twelve acres, is laid off in gravel walks bordered
with flowers and shrubbery, and in it are a number of very
handsome marble tombs. The grounds are very tastefuUy
kept, and altogether the place has more the aspect of cheer-
'fulness, than the gloom which usually accompanies the sight
of a graveyard. Among the ornamental shrubs were some
of the most luxuriant specimens of broom in full flower, that
I ever beheld. Several of these shrubs were about twelve
feet high, and being completely covered -with their golden
blossoms, they had a most glorious appearance. It was the
first broom I had seen in Mexico, and it seemed like an old
friend, its appearance irresistibly carrying me back to the
broomy knowes of my native land. The burial gi-ound is
the property of the church, and as'the sums charged for the
privUege of interring in it are enormously high, of course
none but the rich inter in it. The lower <Jasses bury in
other places and without coffins. They are carried to the
grave on a rude sort of litter, the corpses of children and
women being profusely decked -with roses and other flowers.

CHAPTER XXV.

CONCLUSION.

As the Mexican Government showed no signs of -wishing to
terminate the war, refusing to correspond with the American
commissioners, although a large party in Mexico were
avowedly in favour of peace, we had still the prospect of a
few more engagements. The Mexican war party were
encouraged by the dissensions among our officers, a cabal
of whom had managed to get General Scott superseded in
the command by General Butler — a change very unpalata
ble to the troops, who idolized their veteran commander, so
uniformly successful, and whose triumph over the weak
machinations of his contemptible adversaries is now matter
of history. The desertions of our soldiers to the Mexican
army, which were still numerous, in spite of the fearful
example of the execution of those taken at Churubusco, also
served to inspire that party with hope.
As the majority of these deserters were Irish, the cause
commonly assigned by the officers for their desertion, was,
that as they were Roman Catholics they imagined they were
flghting against their reUgion in fighting the Mexicans.
There was a portion of truth in that -riew of the subject, but
it came very short of the whole truth. I have good reason
to believe, in fact in some individual cases I know, that harsh
and unjust treatment by their officers operated far more
strongly than any other consideration to produce the deplo
rable result. The various degrading modes of punishment,

282 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO.
often inflicted by |p)ung, headstrong, and inconsiderate offi
cers, in their zeal' for the discipline of the service, for the
most trivial offences^ were exceedingly gaUing to the flery,
untameable spirit of the sons of the Green Isle. And I have
not the shghtest doubt that those barbarous modes of punish
ment in common adoption, arid the want of sympathy gene
rally existing between the officers and. their men, were the
exciting causes of the majority of these cases of desertion so
lamentably frequent
One of the modes of punishment practised while in the
city, consisted in placing the culprit standing on a barrel in
the open street, exposed to the heat of the sun aU day, and
the derisive admiration of the street passengers. Of course
a sentry was in attendance to shoot or run him through with
a bayonet if he attempted to escape from his uncomfortable
position. Another mode consisted in placing the -rictim on
a high wooden horse, and I knew of one man losing his life, in
consequence of being compelled to sit for a series of days and
nights in that position ; one night while asleep, he fell from
the back of his inanimate steed, which was about eight feet
high, on the hard pavement, and was so severely injm-ed that
he died shortly afterwards in consequence.
But the favourite punishment was that called the buck and
gag; which is administered after the foUcwing manner. The
culprit being seated on the ground, his feet are drawn up to
his hams, and his wrists tied firmly in front of his legs ; a
long stick or broom handle is then inserted between his legs
and arms, going over his arms and under his bent knees, a
gag is then placed in his mouth and tied firmly behind his
head. In this helpless condition, unable to move hand, foot,
or tongue, ho is left for a series of hours, or even days, accord
ing to the bumom- of his tormentor. This revolting and dis
gusting punishment, which is often ^ inflicted at the mere

PROSPECTS OF PEACE, 283
whim of an officer, has long been, and, I am sorry to say,
still continues a favom-ite mode of punishment in the Ameri
can army.
But the expectations of the Mexican war party were soon
damped by the vigour vrith which the United States seemed
resolved to prosecute the war to an honourable issue. Large
reinforcements arrived in January and February, making up
our total strength to at least 12,000 effective men. And the
whole army being kept at dUigent driU, by the end of March
we had by far the most efficient army that had been in the
field since the commencement of the war. This wise policy
of the States tended greatly to fachitate the treaty which
General Scott and Mr. Trist had begun to negotiate with the
Mexican Govermnent, who at length seemed -willing to come
to terms.
About the middle of April, it was currently reported, much
to our satisfaction, that the basis of a treaty had been agreed
upon between the Mexican Govemment and Mr. Trist, which
had been despatched to Washington for the action of the
Legislature. The war was now considered over, all agreeing
that the States were tired of the contest, and would with
draw from it as soon as they could without a palpable sacri
fice of the national honour, StiU, as the result was by no
means certain, our commander continued to maintain the
efficiency of the troops by rigid discipline and a wholesome
system of drill.
It was about the beginning of May when the news of the
French Revolution reached Mexico, creating a vast deal cf
excitement and speculation among all classes of the army ;
indeed, to judge from the triumphant expression of counte
nance worn by the more enthusiastic of the worshippers of
democratic government, they seemed to believe that the

254 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,
millennium of republicanism had arrived at last, the reful-
gency of their glorious stars having at last penetrated and
dispeUed the noxious fogs of European despotism. Perhaps
if these too sanguine worshippers of the goddess of liberty
could have foreseeri the events of the last few years — par
exemple, the spectacle of the Pope forced on his unwUling
subjects, and propped in the fisherman's chair by French
bayonets — it might have moderated their enthusiasm.
The news of the ratification of the treaty of peace arrived
about the middle of May, an .event infinitely more interesting
to us all, than the downfall of European dynasties. The war
was now at an end, and the intelligence seemed to diffuse
general satisfaction ; splendid ihe works were exhibited in the
Plaza, in celebration of the event ; and the inhabitants gene
rally seemed delighted at the prospect of peace. The only
class who seemed to feel it a misfortune, was the numerous
train of gamblers, sharpers, and other camp followers, who,
Uke ill-omened birds of prey, hung round our army ; and
who seemed by their lugubrious countenances to have
received a grievous blow and discouragement by this sudden
end to their accursed occupations.
The di-rision to which I belonged, left the city of Mexico
on our homeward route, on tbe 29th of May ; but ovring to
the scarcity of shipping at Vera Cruz, our battery had to
stay a month at Jalapa, until a sufficient number of vessels
should have arrived from the States, This delay was a seri- .
ous misfortune, as it detained us until the period of yellow
fever had commenced in New Orleans, and which we would
otherwise have anticipated. Our company, with its battery
and a hundred horses belonging to it, embarked in a large
steamer at Vera Cruz, on the 15th of July ; the cabin fitted
up vrith stalls, contained our horses, the men occupied the

YELLOW FEVER. 285
upper deck, and after a fair voyage of four days we arrived
at Now Orleans, where we turned in our horses to the quar
termaster to be sold.
We remained in New Orleans a few days, and on the 23rd
of July embarked in a brig called the Patrick Hemy, for
New York. We left all cm- sick, consisting of five or six
men, who were ill with diarrhoea, in hospital at New Orleans,
and there were nine men absent without leave ; these had
eridently taken the earliest opportunity of bidding good bye
to Uncle Sam's service on landing in the States. We were
towed down the river by a steamer on the 24th, and on the
25th, the wind being fair, we made sail. Before we had been
a day out, two of our men fell sick, complaining of pain in
the head, and in a few hours after, we had about a dozen on
the sick list, and the symptoms of the-disease, vomiting and
delirium, conffi-med our worst fears"; we had the virulent and
deadly tropical plague, the di-eaded yellow fever, on board.
The surgeon, whose name I have forgotten, was most diUgent
and untiring in his efforts to arrest the progress of the fatal
malady, and relieve the sufferings of the sick ; by his own
dhections he was wakened every two hours during the night,
that he might observe the state of his patients and adminis
ter medicine ; but in spite of his exertions, the fatal disease
claimed a nuinber of -rictims, and before we reached New
York, sixteen of our number had been consigned to the deep.
At one period of the voyage more than two thirds of those
on board were on the doctor's list, and our prospects were
gloomy in the extreme ; more especiaUy as the season was
that in which calms are prevalent in the gulf; and to be
becalmed for days, perhaps weeks, in our floating pest-house,
every one felt would be the destruction of one-half or two-
thirds of those on board. As a climax to our misfortunes.

286 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER IN MEXICO,"
the medicine which our surgeon had been using, and on
which he depended for the successful treatment of the
disease, was nearly exhausted, and many began to consider
themselves only spared from the Mexican b-nUets tp die a
more horrible death. In the midst of these gloomy antici
pations, we had the good fortune to meet a large vessel
bound to Charleston ; having signalled her, as she was
going under easy sail, she lay to till we sent a boat with our
surgeon over to her, when, fortunately, the captain was able
to supply him with a quantity of the medicine he required.
To add to our good fortune, a fine breeze sprang up in the
evening, which lasted until we reached New York, on the
moming of the 12th of August, when we dropped anchor
opposite Staten Island.
Soon after our arrival a surgeon came on board, and
ordered all our sick to be taken ashore to the hospital at
Staten Island. The vessel was to remain at quarantine until
thoroughly cleansed and fumigated ; but the remainder of
the soldiers were to be landed at Governor's Island as soon
as possible. Accordingly, our sick, amounting to between
thirty and forty, were sent ashore, a number of them ha'ring
to be carried up from the hold, and handed down the side
of the vessel into the boat. The disease communicated to
several of the hospital attendants, a few of whom died of it.
A number of the inhabitants also caught the dangerous
infection ; and for a month after cases of yeUow fever were
of frequent occurrence on that side of Staten Island ; in
fact, though a favourite resort of summer parties fi-om New
York, steamers ceased to ply to and from it for some time,
on account of the prevailing disease, the public being warned
by the papers from -risiting it.
The remainder of our company were put on board a small

CONCLUSION. 287
sloop, and carried up to Governor's Island, where we landed
about seven o'clock in the evening. I thought it a curious
coincidence that I was landing in Governor's Island again on
the evening of the 12th of August, having landed there on
the 12th of August three years before. To complete the
coincidence, it was at-the same hour, and exactly the sam'e
sort of a lovely evening. We were lodged in some empty
rooms in the castie for that night, and the next day went
into tents out on the field. These tents had no wooden bot
toms ,or flooring, as they certainly ought to have had, where
they could have been so easily procured. Many of the men
were weak from the effects of fever ; and several who fell ill
and died at that time were evidently victims to this disre
gard of the health of the soldier.
About sixty of the company, wbo had enlisted for tho
duration of the war in Mexico, were discharged a few weeks
after our arrival. The remainder of our company, after we
had been about a month on Governor's Island, our sick
having nearly all joined us from Staten Island, were sent to
Baltimore, There I passed the remainder of my enUstment,
being discharged on the 12th of August, 1850. As the
remaining two .years which I passed in tbe service present
only the usual barren and monotonous features of a soldier's
life in garrison, I have resolved on concluding the narrative
vrith my retum from Mexico.
And now, tired reader, in conclusion, allow me to say a
few words deprecatory of your severe criticism. The fore
going rather sketchy and imperfect narrative was written,
vrithout the help of notes, some years after the events which
it describes occurred. Trusting to memory for details and
statistics, I am aware that a few slight unintentional mis
takes might be detected in the comse of the narrative.

288 ADVENTURES OF A SOLDIER 'IN MEXICO,
However, satisfied of truthfulness of intent, I feel that I have
throughou tendeavoured to " Nothing extenuate, nor set down
aught in malice,'' I am also confident that should any of my
old fellow-comrades ever read this narrative, while acknow
ledging the general accuracy of its descriptions, they -wUl hear
tily subscribe to most of the opinions expressed in it.

THE END,