C€&J~'"Cp&0y fry

Fred. S^rjigt

Iflfl^ODOCffO

b

¦i-1 J Iff J

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

y^XjTVERJI^

THE LIBRARY OF THE
DIVINITY SCHOOL

*

THE DAY MISSIONS LIBRARY

THE LOWER AFRICAN PLATEAU AS SEEN NEAR CATUMBELLA.

AREIOAME;

OR,

S*fom ttas' fflfjumttit: Mission Work

CENTRAL AFRICA.

FRED.. S. ARNOT.
With Twenty Illustrations,
And an Original Map prepared by the Royal Geographical Society.

FLEMING H. REVELL,
CHICAGO: I NEW YORK:
148 and 150 Madison Street. I 12 Bible House, Astor Place.
Publisher of Evangelical Literature.

Ytie Divinity Library
New Havea, fiogn.

INTRODUCTION.

THIS story of seven years of pioneer mission work in the
heart of the Dark Continent is another fulfilment of that
sagacious prediction of Victor Hugo, that, in the twentieth
century, Africa is to be the cynosure of all eyes.
Mr. Arnot has given us no ambitious narrative. It is, in
the etymological sense, homely, for it is a son's letter to his
mother and the home group ; and it is a story of strictly pio
neer work, for he undertook to cross the continent on foot.
The journey, undertaken in an apostolic spirit, was marked by
that savor of the supernatural which is so sweet to a believer;
as when, for example, in a terrible thunder storm, an electric
ball fell crashing at his feet with the sound and shock of a
cannon's shot, and yet left him unharmed ; or, as when in re
peated instances, food and water were found to relieve extreme
hunger and thirst just at the crisis when the believing prayer
had been offered.
The book is a revelation of passion for souls. Here is a
man who, with his whole heart, loved those poor Africans and
yearned for their salvation. He was divinely restless and im
patient while his tongue knew not the mystery of their speech,
and he was forced to be mute amid such spiritual destitution
and degradation. Such passionate love quickened his mental
powers and well nigh became to him a gift of tongues, so that,
after but four months' struggle with the Sechuana dialect, he
began to use it in reading, conversation and prayer.
This book is a new exhibition of the evidences of Chris
tianity — in the department, not of Apologetics, but of Ener-
^getics. For instance, we see the converted Chief Kama for-
^bidding not only the traffic in strong drink, but forbidding the
cursed intoxicants a right of way through his dominions ; put-
->ting down revolting heathen customs ; setting an example of
y unselfishness and self-denial ; and, though warring against
their pagan practices, winning the hearts of his people so that,

almost to a man, they would die for him. One might see more
shameless vice and open immorality in High street, Glasgow,
on one Saturday night than in Shoshong, during -a twelve
month. It will take more than Canon Taylor or Mr. Caine to
disturb our confidence in Christian missions while such re
sults are wrought by the precious Gospel in the very homes of
darkness and death-shade, and the habitations of cruelty.
Mr. Arnot's secrets are open secrets. A faith that made
God's promises verities, realities, certainties to go by ; a fel
lowship with God that would not be satisfied without that
humble, holy intimacy which reveals the secrets of God to the
meek ; a fidelity to the lower law of duty and the higher law
of love, that reconciles all conflicting claims and transforms
burdens borne into pinions that bear us onward and upward —
these were the secrets of this traveler's success. They are all
secrets that any disciple may learn and follow.
In every such contribution to the literature of missions we
rejoice. It is divinely true : "There are endless fresh begin
nings in Christ." We have not yet begun to sound the possi
bilities of modern missions, because we have not yet proved
the full power of believing prayer and undoubting faith and
implicit obedience. When believers believe the promises ;
when disciples learn of Christ ; when we have fully accepted
the great truth that the whole world is the field, and the whole
church the force, we shall find many more going forth with
seed and with sickle, ready both to sow and to reap ; and no
part of the wide field shall stand, destitute of laborers, given
over to the Harvest of Death.
Arthur T. Pierson.

PREFACE.

AFTER a stay of seven years in Africa Mr. F. S. Arnot came
to England for six months. This brief period has been
occupied with much correspondence, travelling, giving addresses,
seeing to the enlargement of his work, etc., so that he could not
find time to write an account of his African experiences. To
meet, however, the wishes of many enquiring friends he has pre
pared this volume by making use of diaries and letters originally
sent to the members of his family (chiefly written to his mother),
supplementary information being added. The simple and homely
style of these pages is thus accounted for. The faith in which
he was, as a child, carefully nurtured by his parents is shown
by the undesigned references to scripture interwoven with the
narrative. As his years increased he learned to tread for himself
the path of faith, the fruits of which are seen in his life.
His work in Africa has been largely a preparatory one, but by
widely gaining the esteem and confidence of the natives, as
Livingstone did before him, he has done much to pave the way
for other servants of Christ.
In connection with this pioneering effort, a few remarks on
aggressive Christianity in the light of Scripture may not be out
of place. It is often admitted that much of the extensive
missionary work now going on is very feeble in character. The
cause surely is, that in this, as in other respects, we have departed
from the divine pattern.
In the tenth chapter of the Gospel by Matthew certain pre
ceptive principles were given by the Lord to His disciples, when
He first sent them forth to proclaim the glad tidings of the
kingdom of heaven. We would not forget that these disciples
were commissioned to go among a people who were looking for
the fulfilment of promises regarding a coming Messiah ; nor that

vi Preface.
they were endued with miraculous power wherewith to attest their
ministry. But making due allowance for this difference, we
must acknowledge that our practice bears very little resemblance
to that which our Lord enjoins. The wise man's heart "dis-
cerneth both time and judgment," and what we need is to carry
out the spirit of our Master's instructions, even though the sphere
of service and the qualifications for the work be altered.
Christianity must be consistent with Christ, or it ceases to be
divine ; and a Christian must be a. follower of Christ. In Isaiah
liii. He was prophetically described as "a root out of a dry
ground." His resources came from above, and not from beneath;
from God, and not from man ; from the Spirit of God, and not
from means and money. In true keeping with this, the apostle
Paul shows in i Corinthians i. that the gospel he preached set
aside the wisdom of the flesh ; the power of the flesh, by means
of its wealth and influence ; and the religious zeal of the flesh.
Now, it is painfully evident that all these have crept into the
Church, perhaps in some measure unawares, but not unwelcome.
As a consequence the flesh, and not the Spirit, has been at work ;
man, and not God, has been prominent. Results have been
small, while labour has been great. It is not so when God is
reckoned upon, and when His power takes the place of that
of the creature. Of obedient, trusting Israel it is written, " One
man of you shall chase a thousand." It was so in apostolic
days ; means were few and men were mighty.
Nothing could be more simple than the instructions and
equipment of the pioneer gospel labourers. Their Master was
poor, and they were poor, while yet enriching others — "having
nothing, and yet possessing all things." What was enough for
the Lord was enough for the servants, and they went forth, taking
nothing of the Gentiles, but " poor saints " out of their joy and
deep poverty, abounded towards them in the riches of their
liberality. The whole garment was of one texture. The Master
had begun the piece, and His servants wrought at His loom and
imitated His work. There was no complicated machinery, but
there was power. There were no elaborate plans, but they took
their directions from their Lord. They went forward or stood still,
guided according to the wisdom of Him who said to His disciples,
" Cast the net on the right side of the ship, and ye shall find."

Preface. vii
Money, which seems the most important thing in this day, is
scarcely alluded to in the evangelistic work of early days ; and
even when Paul refers to it in such words as, " Ye sent once and
again unto my necessity," he adds, " Not that I speak in respect
of want, for I have learned in whatsoever state I am therein to be
content." The God of the first century of Christianity is the God
of its nineteenth century; and we trust that these journals will stir
up many to seek in their missionary work more hallowed conformity
to the Lord and to those who truly followed Him at the first.
For any who may be contemplating missionary work we add
a few remarks on some pre-requisites which call for careful
consideration. (i) Fixedness of purpose. In appealing to Timothy the apostle
could- remind him, " Thou hast fully known . . . my purpose."
His work was not the result of a sudden impulse, but of a settled
purpose, probably formed in those solitary years which he passed
with God in Arabia. The writer of these pages was led to
dedicate himself in his youth to Central Africa, his interest in that
continent having been awakened, when he was quite a child,' by
hearing Dr. Livingstone speak in Hamilton in 1864, after his
return frOm one of his great journeys. Obstacles and discourage
ments were met with by Mr. Amot ; but these do not hinder a
true purpose; they only prove helps to the faith of one who is
really called of God.
(2) Preparation for the work. The stones of the temple had to
be carefully prepared, and the stones that were to slay Goliath
must be smooth ones. The servant of God needs a human as
well as a divine preparation. By many the former is forgotten,
and by others it is made the all-in-all. The preparation must vary
according to the sphere which is to be entered upon. For
pioneer work in Central Africa and among savage tribes the
blacksmith's forge, the carpenter's shop, and the medical class
will all prove helpful, as Mr. Amot has found.
(3) Patience and forbearance. We join these together, for
patience in our own hearts will lead to forbearance with others.
Dr. Moffat's advice to our young friend before he left was,
" Have patience, patience, patience, and then you will succeed."
The list of evidences of apostleship, given in 2 Corinthians
xii. 12, is headed with, " In all patience" And, again, Paul puts

viii Preface.
patience first when he gives, in chapter vi. 4, the long record of
his ministry, " Commending ourselves as the ministers of God in
much patience." For the attainment of this grace God would
keep many waiting in His school before sending them out into
His vineyard. Happy are they who resist not this needed
discipline, and who hasten not forth unfitted for the work.
Lastly, we would add perseverance and godliness — the blessed
fruit of patient waiting upon God for each step as it is taken.
Godliness is the higher stage of the Christian life when God has
become its motive power and the centre of all thoughts and
purposes. Godliness subdues the impatience of the natural will
and enables the soul to await the call of God, who alone sees
the end from the beginning.
We close these prefatory words with a letter from Dr. Moffat,
written a few days before his death, on receiving a copy of the
first part of Mr. Arnot's diary :
"Park Cottage, near Tunbridge, Kent, July \?>th, 1883.
" My dear Mr. Groves, — Only a few lines to acknowledge your
kindness in remembering me in connection with Mr. Arnof and his
noble undertaking. Truly his spirit is that of a martyr, ready for
anything for Jesus' sake and perishing souls. I need only say that
I have read it with the most intense interest. Of course many of
the peoples through which he passed were well known to me ; and
had not head powers failed I should have been in those regions till
this day. My heart is as warm as ever towards the Bechuanas,
whom I never cease to remember in prayer.
" My hand still trembles, for I am only partially emerging from
more than six weeks' illness — not such as to confine me to bed, but
to keep me at home, and very often not far from the fire. The result
has been very great weakness of mind and body, shrinking from
everything like mental or physical exercise. My correspondents must
be puzzled with my silence ; but I am in the care of a kind covenant-
keeping God, who will order all things well concerning me.
" Again, many thanks ; and when you hear more let me know, for
I cannot forget Mr. Arnot. Gratefully yours, "Robert Moffat."
We gladly issued fragmentary parts of Mr. Arnot's diaries and
letters while he was in Africa, and hope to continue this service
on his return, God willing. Henry Groves, Bankfield, Kendal.
March, 1889. ^ L" MaCL*AN, M.D., Bath.

CONTENTS.

L PAGE
On the Way to the Zambesi . . i
[July, 1881, to August, 1882.)
II.
Among the Barotse ... 46
{August, 1882, to May, 1884.)
III.
From the Zambesi to Benguelxa . 97
{May, 1884, to May 1885.)
IV.
From Benguella to Garenganze . 133
{June, 1885, to February, 1886.)

Stay in Garenganze . . . 172
{February, 1886, to February, 1888.)
VI.
The Garenganze Kingdom and People . 231
VII.
Return Journey . . . 244
{March to September, 1888.)
APPENDIX.
Mr. Arnot's Fellow-labourers . '251
-M. Coillard's Labours in the Barotse Valley . 255
Lake Bangweolo and Surrounding Country —
dr. Livingstone's description . . . 260
m. giraud's „ . . . . 267

MAP OF WEST CENTRAL AFRICA.

At the request of the Royal Geographical Society Mr. Amot read a paper,
briefly describing his travels in Africa ; and the Society specially prepared a
map to accompany this paper, which was printed in their Proceedings for
February, 1889. They have kindly allowed the use of their plate for the
reproduction of the map, which appears at the end of this volume, and forms
a very valuable addition to it. Not only does it show clearly Mr. Arnot's
routes, but also the recent discoveries of well-known African travellers, such as
Commander Cameron, the Portuguese officers, Serpa Pinto, Capello, and
Ivens, and Herr Reichard. Livingstone's journey from the Zambesi to
Loanda, which attracted Mr. Arnot's attention to this part of Africa, is also
marked. Though this is only a sketch-map, Mr. Amot not having instruments for
ascertaining latitude and longitude, he carefuDy noted his course by compass,
and also the daily distances accomplished. The small map of South Africa
(in the corner) shows both his journeys — the one across the Continent from
Natal to Benguella by the Barotse Valley ; and the other from Benguella to
Garenganze, which was retraced on his return, with some variations. The
larger map gives the routes from Lealui to the West Coast, and thence to
Garenganze, on a much enlarged scale. From Peho to the Garenganze capital
was over fresh ground, and the names of many new places and rivers can now
be identified. The true course of the first part of the Zambesi River has also
been ascertained as running from east to west. As in the case of the two
great rivers of China, it is found that the sources of the Zambesi and Congo
lie close together, although their courses widely diverge, the former emptying
itself on the East Coast, and the latter on the West. The remarkable hill that
Mr. Amot calls Border Craig indicates, he believes, one of the earliest sources
of both rivers, though he has not traced them out.
The southern limit of the Congo Free State is determined by the sources of
that great river, and though it has been hitherto laid down on maps by con
jecture only, we are now able to say how far the Free State extends southward
according to its natural boundary. It includes the large kingdom of Garenganze
— probably larger than England and Wales — but as yet king Msidi scarcely
knows that he is a vassal of the Free State.
Connected with the mention of this king we may refer to the difficulty of
spelling African names. As towns are called after the ruling chiefs, there is a
constant change in their names, and owing to the variety of tribes there is
great diversity in pronunciation. For instance, Msidi's name has been spelt
Msiri, Muxide, Moshide, Muside. Through M. Giraud he has become widely
known as "Msiri," which Mr. Amot says is not correct, but to prevent
confusion he seeks to approach as nearly as possible to this, and calls him
Msidi, a name which very frequently occurs in this volume. — Ed.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

The object sought in inserting these is to give true representations of scenes
or persons in Africa. The View near Catumbella, Carriers, and Camp,
and four African likenesses are reproduced from photographs taken by a
Portuguese artist.

The Lower African Plateau
Carriers and Camp ....
A Kind African Herdsman
Mode of Crossing River on Ox-back
A Typical Carrier ....
Beeswax Hunters ....
Camp at Night ....
View of the Mukurru from Mr. Arnot's Cottage
aljimals on the lufira flats .
Mountain View Cottage
The Hippopotamus at Home
Slave-taming Stick
Adventure with a Lion
An African Girl
Guns versus Spears ....
An African Woman
A Narrow Escape ....
Tent Scene at Bailundu
A Sekulo ..... SMALL MAPS.
The District Around the Mukurru
M. Giraud's Travels

PAGE
Frontispiece xii 6998
132
147
149 171
177178 196
205211230232
243
247 253
254 180
269

carriers and camp.

GARENGANZE;

SEVEN YEARS' PIONEER WORK IN CENTRAL AFRICA.

I.
<&n the SUap to tbe Zambest.
(July, 1881, to August, 1882.)
The Voyage to the Cape — Natal — Extracts from Diary — Orange Free State —
The Transvaal — Potchefstroom — Fate of a Native Tribe — The Boers —
The Limpopo River — Bushmen — Shoshong — Chief Kama and his People —
Leaving the last Mission Station — The Kalahari Desert— Village Preaching
among the Bechuana — The Botletle River — Desert Experiences — The
Mababi River — The Basubia — The Tsetse Fly — The Zambesi reached.
THE VOYAGE TO THE CAPE.
HAVING bidden farewell to my parents, brothers and sisters,
and many friends in Glasgow, the last family link was
severed on the 19th July, 1881, on board the Dublin Castle, in
the East India Docks, by parting from my brother William, who
had come thus far to see me off. At nine that evening we
anchored off Gravesend for the night. After the bustle of seeing
baggage stowed away, I tried to settle down in the little berth
provided for second-class passengers — not too comfortable at the
best, but to my weary mind and heavy heart it seemed most
comfortless. Next morning, however, things looked brighter, as the steamer
slowly wended her way down the Thames, leaving the great
smoke-cloud of the city behind. Soon we were off the Goodwin
Sands, and as night came on Dover lights were in full view.
At Dartmouth we took on board H. M. mails, and by this
B

2 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
time things had become more ship-shape for the long voyage to
the Cape.
As my companion* and I purposed to help the natives of Africa
according to our ability, we thought it well to try and profit our
fellow-passengers, as hearts are the same, whatever be the colour
of the skin. There is not much to occupy the time on board
ship, and we found that the emigrants and others willingly gathered
round the main hatch to the number of two hundred or more,
and listened at the mid-day hour as we sought to interest them
in things eternal.
On the tenth day we came in sight of Cape Verde, on the
African coast, and were for a short time so near thes land to
which I had devoted myself, that we heard the waves beating
on the rocks, and could almost count the trees on the shore.
As I sat and looked, I tried to picture to myself all that lay
beyond that cape. I thought of Mungo Park's travels in these
very latitudes, at the end of the last century and early in this
one, and of the millions of precious souls so near our home —
only a few days' sail from it — and still so ignorant of the fact
that there is One above who loves them.
CAPE town.
Early on the 13th August the flat mountains above Cape Town
appeared in the distance, and soon after the ship anchored in
the bay we set foot on African soil, and were refreshed by meeting
a few earnest Christian workers.
Having considered the question of making our way into the
interior from the Cape, we were led to conclude that Natal would
be a more advantageous starting-point, so we proceeded on our
voyage in a small coasting steamer.
There were on board four black men, deck passengers frpm
the Cape, who were bound for Delagoa Bay, and could speak
a little English. In conversing with them they learned that
I thought of preaching the gospel in Africa, and of proceeding
for this purpose to the north of the Zambesi. A light flashed
in their eyes as they looked at one another, and jabbered away
in a most excited manner. Then one of them burst out, in
broken English, " Come to Delagoa Bay ;" and the other three
» His health failed, and acting on medical advice he remained in Natal.

1881.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 3
joined in, "Come, come to Delagoa Bay." "No teacher,"
continued the first speaker, "at Delagoa Bay. We build you
house and chapel, and give you food and drink. Come to Delagoa
Bay." No answer of mine would satisfy them. "Ah!" said
their leader, '' white man bring brandy to Delagoa Bay, and
guns and powder; but white man no bring chapel to Delagoa
Bay." I was for the moment quite overcome with this deeply-
pathetic cry of " Come over and help us " from these poor
Africans. They were raw Kaffirs who had been to Cape Town
for work, and were now returning to their forest homes; and
their simple words came to my heart as a call from God to
yield myself more entirely to the service of taking the gospel
to the most distant parts. NATAL.
On Saturday, the 20th August, we were off Port Durban, and
after breakfast all on board were greatly delighted at the prospect
of soon getting on shore. A heavy ground-swell was rolling at
the time, so that the passengers had to be lowered over the
sides of the steamer in coal-baskets. After a few minutes more
of tossing in the barge-like boats (in which we were battened
down under the low deck), and three or four tremendous lurches
in crossing the rough bar, where the boat was literally buried
in the broken water, our voyage was over, and we were in the
smooth water of Durban Bay, alongside the pier.
Next evening we found our way to a little chapel where a
Mr. Russell was to preach. We were late in reaching it, and as
we entered the preacher was on the point of giving out his text :
" Verily I say unto you, There is no man that hath left house, or
brethren, or sisters, or father, or mother, or wife, or children, or
lands, for My sake, and the gospel's, but he shall receive an
hundredfold now in this time, houses, and brethren, and sisters,
and mothers, and children, and lands, with persecutions ; and in
the world to come eternal life."* Nothing happens by chance.
The Lord considers our faltering hearts, and restores us by that
Word which refreshed His own soul when on His toilsome path
» In the sympathy with which his course in Africa has been followed, and
in the welcome which awaited him in very many homes on his return,
Mr. Amot has found a fulfilment of these words. — Ed,

4 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept.
to the cross : " He shall drink of the brook in the way : therefore
shall He lift up the head." (Ps. ex. 7.)
From Durban I proceeded to Maritzburg, where I met with
Mr. A. Beaumont, who sought some years ago to carry the gospel
to the natives of Africa ; but finding that he could not acquire
the Kaffir language with sufficient accuracy, had to relinquish
his intention. Though at this time daily occupied in a public
office, he did his utmost in every way to further me in prosecuting
the work he could not himself carry out.
During a stay in Natal of about three months I was diligently
enquiring as to my best route, and making my small preparations
for the journey to the Zambesi. War with the Boers of the
Transvaal was then threatening to become very serious, and this
of course greatly hindered my arrangements. I sought, however,
to help my countrymen by bringing before them — out of doors, in
buildings, or in the hospital — the truths of God's word ; for there
are always to be found in the colonies many of them who are
very ignorant of its power. Mission stations are planted in
various parts around Maritzburg, and I was glad to visit several
of these- — some at considerable distances — with a view of gaining
useful information.
It is unnecessary to give particulars of my stay in Natal, but I
make a few extracts from letters sent while there to members of
my family. The remainder of this volume will also chiefly
consist of such letters or diaries, which I endeavour to link
together in the form of a connected narrative, as far as possible.
EXTRACTS FROM DIARY.
Maritzburg, September yd to 10th, 1881. — This is just the place
for the exercise of the gift of tongues. There are Zulus, Basutos,
S'wazii, and Xosa Kaffirs, Amatongas, and a sprinkling of natives
from almost every tribe south of the Zambesi, and up to Zanzibar
on the east coast, besides coolies from Calcutta, Madras, and
Bombay ; Malays, Arabs, a few Chinamen, Portuguese, Germans,
Dutch, and Swedes.
All the Kaffir conversions of which I have yet heard bear very
distinct marks of the Holy Ghost's work in the heart. What
other power is able to lift them out of their heathendom and
superstition ?

1881.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 5
I am just beginning to realize that God's promises are not mere
words written for the instruction of our minds, or for repetition
with our lips, but certainties to go by ; and the assurance of one
of them is better than the presence of an army.
For some time I have been seeking to let go all of God's word
that I have only learned in my head, and to begin at the very
ABC, and so learn and fix the first truths of Scripture in
my heart, that they may become part of my very being. This"
is surely nothing more than God is able to work in me. Head-
knowledge will not stand the moment of trial, and there will be
many such moments before me.
September 18th. — I know that your prayers and sympathies are
with me in this work, in which I trust the Lord will strengthen
me to proceed -with faith and diligence. I do not feel as if I were
in a strange country, or among a strange people, and I can say
with my whole heart that I love these Africans and long for their
conversion. This desire is, I am persuaded, not of myself, for
there is everything about the natives that is repulsive and un
loveable, but "God so' loved" them is surely enough for me.
Some of them are very sharp and intelligent. A missionary was
telling me of one, who in talking to him a few days ago said that
surely the missionaries had made a great mistake somewhere.
Looking at the time they had worked in Natal and the small results,
he seemed to think they might give up the work as a bad job. The
missionary replied by quoting the English proverb, "One man may
lead a horse to water, but twenty can't make him drink." "Ah !"
said the native, with scarce a moment's thought, "but I never yet
saw twenty horses led t'q the water without some of them drinking."
October ist, 1 881. —We must add to our faith patience. If we
believe that the living God is watching between us when we are
separated, then we must have patience ; and if our confidence is
truly in God we shall have patience, and what would otherwise be
a time of suspense and anxiety will be turned into 3. time of
joyful exercise of that most God-honouring fruit of the Spirit,
patient faith. After such an expression as we find in Colossians
i. 2, "Strengthened with all might according to His glorious
power," we might expect to read, "unto the working of some
miracle," or, "to the accomplishing of some great work;" but it
is "unto all patience and longsuffering with joyfulness."

6 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
Colonial life is unfavourable to though tfulness, either as to the
things of this life or of the life to come. I have found, however,
several with open ears at the hospital.

A WAR CLOUD.
October igth. — The colony is getting into a disturbed state.
War with the Boers seems inevitable. General Wood leaves
Maritzburg to-day for the front with a regiment of cavalry.
The hot weather of last week ended in a tremendous thunder
storm. Going down to the meeting I had a narrow escape of
my life. Just as we approached the door the lightning was
becoming wonderfully vivid, lighting up the black darkness so
clearly that one could see everything around, and even the hills
in the distance. , An electric ball fell just at my feet, the small
stones and dust caused by its coming in contact with the ground
flying up all round me. The shock passed through my whole
body. Several who saw the ball of fire fall said it seemed to
come right down where I was standing, and they described the
noise when it struck the ground as like the crash of a cannon
ball. I was, however, none the worse, and was quite able to
take the meeting, which was smaller than usual.
I cannot think of starting until this Transvaal difficulty is
settled ; but it certainly will be decided before you get this,
either for war or peace.* If war does break out, it may last for
some little time, and then you must not be surprised if you hear
that I have gone to some of the camp hospitals as dresser. It
would be too valuable an opportunity for "speaking words in
season " to be thought lightly of. The Lord has shown me, by
the experience of last night, how near He can bring me to death,
and yet preserve me without a hair of my head being touched ;
for I can only say, with those who were looking on, that the
hand of the Lord was round about me. That verse which you
sent me has been made doubly precious : " Are not two sparrows
sold for a farthing ? and one of them shall not fall on the ground
without your Father. But the very hairs of your head are all
numbered." * Only when the fullest preparations for war had been made by England a
peaceable solution was happily arrived at.

1881.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 7
WAGGON JOURNEYS.
November ist. — I have been very busy preparing to move on,
as I heard of waggons starting for Potchefstroom next week,
and should have left before this, but the gospel meetings detained
me. The summer season has now set in, and almost as sure as
the "clock a thunderstorm with heavy rains comes on every
evening about six, so that it is quite impossible for people to
come out even if they are willing.
The friends here are all very hearty as to my going into the
interior, and greatly help by finding out the most suitable things
to take.
Inland journeys from Maritzburg are made by means of ox-
waggons, each carrying between three and four tons weight of
goods, and drawn by from sixteen to twenty oxen. Four or five
waggons, however, generally travel together, as the roads in many
places are very hilly, and in others so marshy that more than one
team of oxen is required to get the waggons along.
It does look stupid to see so many oxen drawing one waggon
over the level roads about town ; but when one sees them out in
the country dragging it through a quagmire, with great boulders
of stone hidden in the mud every few yards, and then up a
tremendously steep hill, one wonders how they manage to get
along at all. Sometimes as many as seventy oxen have to be
yoked to one transport-waggon.
The country about Natal is very hilly. Last week I walked to
Greytown, fifty miles, and came back in a postcart. I enjoyed
the trip very much. Greytown is a nice little place, about twenty
miles from the Zulu border. The distance by postcart takes little
over seven hours, including stoppages. They change horses
every ten miles — half the way there are four horses, and six
the other half.
If you can imagine being dragged across the country from
Glasgow to Edinburgh in an afternoon — plunging into rivers,
and the water splashing over the horses' backs; shaving deep
water-cuttings, rushing over an avalanche of stones, and rounding
sharp corners of the road, with a deep gorge echoing below,
all at the same mad pace — you may imagine how I felt when
I reached Maritzburg.
Do not be anxious about me; you know well in who'se hands I am.

8 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
START FOR POTCHEFSTROOM.
November igth, 1881. — It is just four months since I left
London, and again I am making a start. Last week, hearing of
waggons going on Thursday, I saw the transport-rider, and at
once arranged with him to take me to Potchefstroom. The dis
tance is not great, but we shall be from one to two months on the
way. I thought of sleeping in my little tent, but have decided to
sleep under one of the waggons, as it will be drier. My bed will
consist, first, of a layer of goats' skin, prepared with fat and
grease to make it waterproof; next, a large waterproof sheet
lined with wool cloth ; then over me my rug and blankets.
November 22nd.- — The waggons started from Maritzburg on the
19th, and reached the top of the town hill that evening. Next
morning I joined them. Some of the Christians of Maritzburg,
with whom I enjoyed much fellowship, and from whom I received
much kindness during my three months' stay there, came up
the hill to say good-bye.
The sixteen Kaffir drivers soon put the oxen and the heavy
waggons into motion, and we were off We hope to make eight
to ten miles a day, without many stoppages, if the rivers are
fordable. Near Escoute, November 28th. — Many thanks for your kind
letter of help and comfort. You no doubt will have heard ere
you receive this one that I had left for Potchefstroom, en route
for Shoshong, Bamarigwato, where I shall be among some
of my own countrymen, and shall have the best opportunity
of learning the dialect of the Sechuana language nearest to that
spoken by the Makalolo, and other interior tribes. I expect to
reach Potchefstroom about Christmas-time, and may have to
remain there a few months for waggon communication to
Shoshong. We have now been seven days on the journey, and are only
about sixty miles from Maritzburg, heavy rains and bad roads
having kept us back. My sleeping accommodation is on the
ground under a waggon, and with a drenching rain and then
4° of frost, which we had for two nights when crossing the
Karkluff hills, I found it a little trying; nevertheless I am
increasing in bodily strength daily. I do feel cast upon God
and long for -a more childlike spirit, so that I may be willing

1881.] On the Way to the Zambesi. g
to go on blindfold if He only lead. It is sweet to have the
promise of His presence ; to know that He has said, " I will
never leave you, nor forsake you ;" but to realise His presence,
and to hear His " Fear not " at a time of separation from
all visible intercourse with His people, is indeed an unspeakable
joy, and, it we judged aright, a position to be desired rather than
shunned. In a letter I received from Glasgow a hope was expressed that
someone would soon come out to join me in the work; but
I would rather wait for years for a fellow-worker than that one
should come out hastily. WITH THE KAFFIRS.
Colenso, November zqth. — Of the nine days we have been
on the road most of my time has been spent with Kaffirs only,
whose language I little understand ; consequently I have been
shut up to converse only with Him whose ear is. ever open to us.
This has turned my solitude into a very precious time, and I can
say to His praise that I never felt more free from all care
and anxious thought than now. I wonder how it is that Satan
has so managed to blindfold me in the past, that my whole
life has not been one note of praise. Oh, stir up every child of
God you meet to praise our good God more ! We little know
how much we rob Him by our sad hearts and dull, thankless
lives. We have just been travelling through some fine country, lying
very low, and hot. It is something grand at night to lie out in
the cold dry veldt, listening to the many African bush sounds.
Water has been very scarce. I took a long journey this
morning into the bush in search of enough to wash myself, as I
had not had a wash for two days. Following along the dry bed
of a river for some distance, I came upon the fresh track of
some animal's feet, and knew then that I was not far from water.
At last the sandy bed of the river began to get rather moist, and
a little further on I found a beautiful ground-spring. So eager
was I in my search that I went further from the waggons than I
intended, but found my way back, though not without some
difficulty. There is quite an attachment between me and the sixteen

10 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
Kaffirs. At first they would scarcely do anything for me, but
now they are very kind and obliging. I hope I may be able
in some small measure to preach Jesus to them before reaching
Potchefstroom. Drachensburg Range, December $tk, 1881. — We are now on the
top of these cold, bleak mountains, some 7000 feet high, which
we reached on Saturday at noon, after two days' hard work
for the oxen.
Yesterday we had a grand thunder-storm. All seemed to be
awed into perfect silence; while the mountains trembled, the
waggon shook like a leaf, and the Kaffirs huddled noiselessly
by their fires. I read Psalm ii. : " Why do the heathen rage, and
the people imagine a vain thing?" How hard it is .for poor man
to believe that in seeking to do without the Lord's Anointed
he seeks a vain thing ! When we see that by one movement
of the finger of God every whisper is silenced, we are reminded
of that coming day when every mouth shall be stopped, and the
whole world brought in guilty before God. "Though hand join
in hand, the wicked shall not go unpunished." How beautifully
the psalm ends : " Be wise therefore, O ye kings : be instructed,
ye judges of the earth. . . . Blessed are all they that put their
trust in Him !" How often is the word "blessed" used by the
Lord in speaking of those who are His ! " Blessed is he whose
transgression is forgiven, whose sin is covered;'' "Blessed art
thou, Simon Bar-jona: for flesh and blood hath not revealed
it unto thee, but My Father which is in heaven;" "Blessed
are they that have not seen, and yet have believed;'' and so in
many other scriptures.
The Lord has been teaching me a little of the awful sin
of unthankfulness. Two great reasons why God gave up those
of old to uncleanness and darkness were, that "they glorified
Him not as God, neither were thankful."
ORANGE FREE STATE.
December 7 th. — We are now within twelve miles of Harrismith,
the first town we come to on entering the Orange Free State.
The country before us, for two hundred miles, is a vast prairie,
dotted with the homesteads of Dutch farmers, better known
as the South African Boers, whose herds of cattle and horses

i88i.] On the Way to the Zambesi. Ii
and flocks of sheep suffer greatly at times from the severity of
the weather. At one season of the year they experience biting
east winds with much hail, rain, and snow ; and at another they
have strong hot winds from the west, heavily charged with sand
from the southern Kalahari Desert.
December i&th. — About thirty miles from the Vaal River. We
now meet with many Boers' waggons, coming from the north,
laden with firewood, for which they find an excellent market in
the few townships scattered over the Orange Free State. The
great scarcity of fuel in these South African Boer districts no
doubt accounts for their custom of eating dried meat uncooked.
THE TRANSVAAL.
Potchefstroom, December 28th. — The journey from Maritzburg
to this place has occupied thirty-four days. Though long, it has
been pleasant, and I have got on well thus far. I did not leave
Natal with a light heart; it cost me much thought to do so.
Though willing to go on working amongst my own countrymen
there for a year or two, in hope of being joined by a fellow-
labourer before proceeding northward, it was incumbent upon
me, as it is at all times, to seek to ascertain .the mind of the
Lord, and to act accordingly. When the friends in Maritzburg
were of one mind as to my proceeding forward alone, and were
willing to encourage me, not only with words but with means, I
took it as a token from God to move quietly onwards.
My desire was to get among the Sechuana-speaking people,
as both in customs and language they much resemble the tribes
of the interior; in fact their language is almost identical. It
was on this account I thought of Shoshong in Bamangwato,
and accordingly shaped my course in that direction, but at the
same time I was willing to take up the work wherever the door
seemed to be opened. POTCHE FSTROOM.
Arriving in Potchefstroom on the 23rd, I pitched my little
tent in the Market Square, with the intention of remaining there
until the Lord made the next step plain. I got some information
about Bamangwato from several persons who had been there,
and who knew the country well.

12 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
While sittipg one evening at the tent door, just after sundown,
a stranger called on me, introducing himself as the English school
master, and after a little conversation he asked me to dine with
him next day.
I went, and during conversation he told me of a Mr. Webb
at present living in Potchefstroom, who had been a Wesleyan
missionary among the Baralongs. Their country lies west of
the Transvaal border, and they speak pure Sechuana. I study
Sechuana with Mr. Webb, and am able, in return, to help him
in his business. He is very desirous that I should go to the
Baralongs. This is a beautiful country, although at this time it is very hot
indeed, and a good deal of fever has been raging. The English
Church minister who lately came to Potchefstroom, died the
other day of fever. I had one slight touch of it, which lasted
only two days ; but on the whole I have enjoyed much better
health, and am stronger and stouter than I was at home.
Potchefstroom is a lovely place, with an abundance of fruit.
The other day I walked to the British Fort just outside the town.
I was shown the spot where a young soldier fell, who had been
found sleeping whilst on duty in the trenches, and was con
demned to be shot. Rather than be killed by his own country
men, he jumped upon the parapet, and was immediately shot
down by the Boers. If our Captain so treated His sleeping
soldiers, who would stand? How gentle are His words when
He found them sleeping for sorrow, " Why sleep ye ? "
FATE OF A NATIVE TRIBE.
Klerksdorp, February 6th, 1882. — You see I am on the movef
The war of the Boers with the Baralongs has gone, so far, against
the natives. I was told by Captain F  , of the Transvaal
Horse, who had just returned from that part, that the tribe was
virtually broken up, and that their country would be given to
the Boers who assisted. This put an end to any thought of
my going there. I afterwards heard that the Wesleyans, at a
recent conference, had decided to send a missionary to the
Baralongs again; but, of course, as the tribe has been broken up,
their decision comes to nothing. I waited on God for guidance
and was as willing to remain in Potchefstroom as to go on to

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 13
Shoshong ; in fact, I can say honestly I had no will or wish as to
my future. AN ENGLISH FELLOW-TRAVELLER TO SHOSHONG.
I had intended visiting Mr. Leask at Klerksdorp, having a
letter of introduction to him ; and just as I was going to do so
last week I heard that Mr. Selous was staying with him, and was
about to start for the interior. It was he who wrote a paper in
the Geographical Proceedings that I valued much; he was the
only person who had visited the Batoka besides Livingstone.
I rode out to Klerksdorp on Thursday, and was welcomed by
Mr. and Mrs. Leask. I also met Mr. Selous, and had a long
talk about the Batoka. He kindly asked me to accompany him
to Shoshong, and I accepted his invitation, and returned at
once to Potchefstroom. Early the next morning a waggon came
up for some goods for Mr. Selous. Fortunately I was ready.
I had just time to buy a few things, take a hasty farewell, and
join the waggon outside the town at 9.30. We arrived here this
morning, and hope to start again on Tuesday. Mr. Leask kindly
sent to gather all the English-speaking people for a meeting to-night.
I know you will not think anxiously of me. "All His paths
drop fatness." I feel that the snare which needs much grace to
watch against is my own will cropping up and leading me into
my own paths, which only end in sorrow and bitterness.
February 13th. — I find I shall be very busy to-day getting my
own things right and helping Mr. Selous ; besides, I have a sick
man to attend to who has just returned from the interior, and
was thought to be dying last night. I at once rolled him in
blankets wrung out of boiling water, which gave him relief from
his great pain. His whole body was fearfully swollen, but this
treatment had a wonderful effect. We had quite a large meeting
last night. The waggon is now packed, ready for a start. Mr.
Selous is going to collect specimens for the British and
Continental museums.
In speaking of the Batoka, he says they are the best-disposed
tribe of Africans he has met with. The Jesuits have, however, gone
among them lately. They first formed a station on this side of
the Zambesi, and then two of them went over to the Batoka and
were well received. One of them died, however, in a mysterious
way ; the other said he was poisoned by the natives, and at once

14 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
left. The Jesuits wrote Mr. Selous lately, asking him about the
Barotse; and he thinks they have given up the idea of. going
among the Batoka, and are going up the Barotse valley.
Zeerust, February i "jth. — Yesterday Mr. Selous left me to come
on here with the waggons. It has been so hot during the day
that we have had to travel by night. I had to walk for five hours
last night before the waggons with a lantern to trace the road
through thick bush; and when I could find no road I had to
guide by my compass the boy who led the oxen.
THE BOERS.
Before leaving the country of the Boers I would mention that
many of them are direct descendants of Dutch Protestants and
French Huguenots, who fled from their homes in the seventeenth
century and took refuge in South Africa. Since then they have
gradually pushed their way northwards. The Doper or Baptist
Boers, who inhabit the northern parts of the Transvaal, are
generally known as the ¦" Foretrekers." They are devoutly
attached to their Dutch Bibles, and have no other thought for
their children than that they should learn to read that Book.
Their apparent piety and devotion, however, contrast strangely
with their cruel and unjust treatment of the Africans. This pro
bably arises from the belief they have that they are the elect of
God, and that the African heathen are given to them to be spoiled
and enslaved, as the Canaanites were treated by the Israelites.
The Boer has no thought of making use of the ordinary
advantages of civilization, and is much attached to a simple
prairie life. Once a year, perhaps, he will make a visit to the
neighbouring market town, many miles from his farm, and dispose
of his produce, which generally consists of wool, tobacco, and
hides, in exchange for which he returns with a supply of clothes,
coffee, and sugar, the two latter being perhaps the only luxuries
that he ventures to indulge in. In seasons of drought or un
common severity the Boers living in the more desert or higher
districts of the Transvaal have to leave their homes and wander,
like the patriarchs of old, with their flocks and herds, encamping
along the rivers and in the bush-covered land. I visited one
large camp of Boers, and distributed a number of Dutch
Testaments amongst them, spending also a good deal of time in

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 15
calling at their farms with Testaments; and they received me
with the utmost kindness, although I could talk but little in their
own language. They gave me their best accommodation ; but my
being a Scotchman was doubtless a recommendation, as they
somehow believe the Scotch people share their theological views,
and are among the number of the " elect."
THE LIMPOPO RIVER.
Limpopo River, February 26th. — We are now within a week's
journey of Shoshong. Since leaving Zeerust we have been
travelling through most lovely country. Three days ago we
reached the Morico River, which runs along the bottom of a
deep gorge, thickly wooded to the water's edge.
We are now out-spanned on the banks of the Limpopo — a
beautiful river indeed. The wild animals become more numerous
here — lions, leopards, etc. ; but with a "skerm" of thorns all round
at night, and a large fire blazing, there is no danger. When the
nights are dark they keep one awake with their roaring. I shall
be glad when we reach Bamangwato, and I can get settled down
to the language. I feel so useless, and sometimes impatient,
when so many all round sadly need the gospel, and I cannot
converse with them.
I have desired much lately that the Lord would give me a
right estimate of the value of spiritual things as compared with
things earthly, and I long to be able to say from my heart with
Job, " I have esteemed the words of His mouth more than my
necessary food;" and with David, in Psalm cxix. 14, "I have
rejoiced in the way of Thy testimonies as much as in all riches "
(German translation "above all riches"); and in verse 72, "The
law of Thy mouth is better unto me than thousands of gold and
silver." How many beautiful and telling comparisons God makes
between wisdom and gold, understanding and silver, all through
Scripture. March 6th. — We are now out-spanned on the banks of the
river where the road turns off to Bamangwato.
BUSHMEN.
The waggon is daily visited by Bushmen. These men are
supposed to be the lowest type of humanity. They live in a

1 6 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Mar."
most primitive fashion ; the whole company will sleep in a little
hollow in the ground under a bush ; they come round the
waggon for any scraps of meat and offal thrown away. Growing
no grain, they live on wild fruit, and on animals which they kill
with their poisoned arrows. Their little children at once proved
the connection of these people with the whole human race.
Their ways at play and their sweet ringing laugh are the same
as those of our own children at home.
SHOSHONG.
Shoshong, March i8tk, 1882. — Arrived here a week ago, after
thirty-six days' travelling from Potchefstroom. Our journey was
much protracted because of the long-continued drought, which
compelled us to remain for a fortnight on the unhealthy banks
of the Limpopo river, for the sake of water for the oxen ; heavy
rains fell, however, enabling us to cross the dry desert country
lying between the Limpopo and Shoshong.
Shoshong is the capital of the Bamangwato, whose country lies
north-west of the Transvaal Republic. It was here that a
German Missionary Society began work some sixty years ago.
They left the field, however, to the London Missionary Society,
who are also working at Kuruman, and establishing stations all
over Bechuanaland. During the time of Mr. Mackenzie's stay at
Shoshong, Sekhome, the father of the present chief, was in
power. The Christian church of that place was greatly enlarged,
and Kama, the chief's son, was converted. He suffered much
persecution at the hands of his father, and after an attempt had
been made upon his life he fled to the Botletle river, with many
young men from Shoshong, and other converts from the Bamang
wato tribe joined him. Owing, however, to the unhealthy nature
of the country many of the men died, and Kama was compelled
to return again to the neighbourhood of Shoshong, where he sought
to be reconciled to his father, and asked permission for himself and
those with him to return to their wives, and to take possession
ol their cattle. Sekhome* unwisely resented these friendly over
tures and sent Kamane, his second son, to attack Kama, the
rightful heir to the country. They met and had a sharp conflict;
but when Sekhome" saw Kamane" flee, he fled also, leaving the
town and chieftainship to Kama. Kamane" has made friends

1 882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 17
with his brother, but the old chief Sekhome" preferred to take
up his abode in a village on the borders of his former territory.
Much spiritual blessing has accompanied the work of Mr.
Hepburn, the resident missionary at Shoshong, and the native
converts have carried the gospel to villages and tribes far and
near. '
THE NATIVES' PRAYER FOR RAIN.
A bright testimony to the power of prayer was witnessed here.
Some time after Kama became chief there was a terrible year of
drought, threatening the loss of all the crops. The enemies
of Christ sneered at the helplessness of the Christians, and
wondered what they would do without rain-doctors — important
persons in Africa. As the knowledge of the true God had
increased, they had been discarded. Kama now appointed a
day of prayer to God, and all his people were invited to be
present. The Christians at Shoshong sent messengers to the
village of the Makalaka close by, calling them to come to this
all-day prayer-meeting. The Makalaka heathen, however, sneer-
ingly retorted that they were not going to turn away their own
rain-doctors, and refused to come. The Christians spent the
day in humiliation and prayer, and towards evening heavy clouds
arose, and a prolonged drenching shower of rain passed over
the town. The gardens of the Shoshong Christians lay alongside
those of the Makalaka in a plain in front of the town, and in-
the morning it was found that all the fields belonging to the
people of Shoshong were well soaked with water, but those of
the Makalaka were as dry and parched as on the day before.
The news of this wonderful answer to the prayers of Kama and
his people spread widely, and traders and others came to see for
themselves. March 2yd. — Since my arrival Kama has been very friendly
with me. His country extends close up to the Zambesi, and he
has promised to help me on rriy journey thither with guides and
servants whenever I am ready to go.
Mr. Hepburn gives me a daily lesson in Sechuana, and I
teach his two boys English.
On Sunday morning I had a meeting with the white residents
(traders and their wives) ; twelve in all were present.
You speak of the journey from Natal to this place as a perilous
c

1 8 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
one. It really is not so ; and were it not for the wars that are
disturbing the western border of the Transvaal, it would be a
safer journey than from Glasgow to London by road. Outrages
upon individuals travelling are almost unknown.
There is much here to discourage and dishearten, but there is
rich blessing in the midst of it all. The arm beneath us is
strong, and the presence of a living God along with His living
word is surely better than the company of many friends.
April 2nd. — This week, what with doctoring, teaching, and
learning Sechuana, also receiving and entertaining native visitors,
I have been very busy indeed. I read the Sechuana Testament
to them, and by their remarks upon it I pick up words that do
not come out in ordinary conversation. I now read the language
fairly, and can add a word here and there.
There is a great amount of sickness and death in the town ;
and no wonder, when -one thinks of 20,000 people being crowded
together as close as they could well be packed. Two persons can
scarcely walk abreast between the houses, which form such a
perfect maze to me, that when visiting the sick I have to be
guided in and out. Their idea is that this plan affords greater
protection from their enemies.
Just now there are a good many English traders here from all
parts — Lake Ngami, Matabele country, Zambesi, etc. Last
Sunday there were fourteen in all at the meeting. I had another
meeting this evening in one of their houses ; but there were not
so many present. 1 am enjoying splendid health — better than
I ever did at home. TWO WAYS TO THE ZAMBESI.
May ist. — Two ways are partly open to me of getting to the
Zambesi during the winter, which is the healthy season. I could
go either in company with a trader to Panda-ma-tenka, my own
stuff being carried by pack-donkeys or oxen, or in company with
a hunting party to the Mababi. In both cases I should have a
journey of a few days to the river.
My object would be to see Wankie, the chief, whose town lies
at the best place for crossing the Zambesi, eighty miles below the
Victoria Falls. His sway is acknowledged over a large tract of
country on the north of the river, and I wish to get permission

1 882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. ig
from him to cross, and to stay among the Batoka and the
Bashukulumbe on the hills on the other side. Were I able to do
so it would be of great advantage to me. But "lay hands
suddenly on no man '' is acknowledged to be a most important
principle by the natives here ; and the chiefs must have time to
think about any proposal. To be kept waiting on the Zambesi
for some months, for permission to cross and live on the high,
healthy country on the other side of the river, might be accom
panied with the most serious results, humanly speaking. They
tell me that five white men out of six cannot live in the Zambesi
valley ; but during the winter months it can be visited and passed
through with comparative safety.
The other way that I speak of might yet be opened up,
though it is not at present; viz., to go down to the town of
Silika, a small chief, 80 or 100 miles from here, who pays tribute
to Kama. Three of M. Coillard's native evangelists are there at
present. Silika, however, has recently forbidden his people to
listen to them ; moreover, Kama has only partly given his consent
to my going there. Mr. Hepburn thinks Kama could not
possibly let me go until he had first consulted with M. Coillard,
when opportunity offered. There are no other towns around
here to which I could go.
From Shoshong to the Zambesi the country is peopled by only a
few scattered Bushmen. South of this the Bechuana towns are few
and far between. The Matabele country lies to the north-east,
where there certainly are masses of heathen ; but they do not speak
or understand the Sechuana tongue. The four London Society
missionaries who are there can scarcely get man or child to listen
to them. One man, of whom I heard the other day, made a
profession, and was instantly put to death by the chief
To return to your letter. I certainly value your advice not to
proceed further without a companion ; and as I believe this to be
the wish, not only of my friends, but also of older Christians, it
has cast me much on the Lord as to whether it is His will that I
should return the way I came. God has helped me much with
the Sechuana language, which is understood among the Zambesi
tribes ; and He has given me excellent health, so that I have
passed through the most unhealthy season with scarcely a touch
of fever where others have suffered much.

20 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
Up here the price of labour and goods is fabulous ; scarcely
any thing can be bought from the natives for less than a shilling,
and one could purchase as much with a penny at home.
Some of these native Christians put me to shame by their
heartiness and zeal. The Lord has chosen in me a feeble and
worthless servant ; but if my feebleness and worthlessness do but
serve to exalt His might and worth I shall not have come here in
vain. I am living alone some little distance out of the town in a
house lent me by the chief, and have many opportunities of speak
ing and reading with the people, who come to me for medicine.
May yd. — Mr. Hepburn left last week for England. He and
Mrs. Hepburn could not have treated me with greater kindness.
My days are fully occupied in acquiring the Sechuana language,
teaching some white children, and doctoring a few sick people.
I do not know when my next step may be taken. I can assure
you honestly that since coming to this country I have set myself
in many ways to find out and prove whether the Lord would not
have me to work elsewhere rather than to go into the far interior
alone. Now I feel more persuaded than ever to go on, and
many of the mountains of difficulty have turned out to be only
ground fogs.
May 16th. — I have now a servant called Setobi who is willing
to go anywhere with me ; and if he proves to be a Christian, as I
hope he is, there will thus be a second witness. " In the mouth
of two or three witnesses shall every word be established."
Have just been reading Psalm Ixxxix. 8, " O Lord God of hosts,
who is a strong Lord like unto Thee? or to Thy faithfulness round
about Thee ? " His faithfulness is as strong as Himself, so that
He cannot fail in the complete fulfilment of His promises.' Oh
for that precious faith (precious because God-honouring) that can
lie down and rest, as the Lord Jesus did, in the midst of the
blackest storm, knowing this only, that He is near and that He
knows ! How often we reverse God's plan, and instead of resting
our souls on the Mighty One, when the devil is roaring round, we
are filled with dismay. If in time of temptation we fail to "watch
and pray," and are found sleeping, we easily fall into his snare.
The love of Christ was not only a love unto death, but it
is still a living, active love. A moment of heroic love for a
fellow-creature might constrain a man to risk his life to drag

1 882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 21
some helpless child out of some pit, or out of deep water; but
the same love might not constrain him to tenderly wash and
clothe and warm the little one. No, the mother could .do
that best. The love of Christ does both. (See Ephesians
v. 25-29.) He loved the Church, He gave Himself for it,
that He might sanctify and cleanse it ; He ¦ nourishes and
cherishes it, that He may present it to Himself a glorious
Church, not having spot or wrinkle, or any such thing. What
a perfect love ! And this is the love that He has set upon us ;
and nothing in heaven, or hell, or on earth, can stay its working.
THE DESERT ROUTE CHOSEN.
June $th. — Kama has just told me that he is sending Tinka,
his chief hunter, to the Mababi, so I have decided to go
with him. Kama did not say that I was to go, but left the
decision with myself. He has promised me every help and
comfort in travelling with his chief hunter. It is not certain that
I shall reach the Mababi, for if the rains have not fallen over
the desert, there will be no water, and we shall be forced to turn
back. Tinka is a man of experience, knows every inch of the
ground up there, and has got strict orders from the chief not to
run any risks in trying to cross the desert ; so, humanly speaking,
I shall be perfectly safe with him.
After reaching the Mababi Flat, I shall get one or two guides
to take me on to Panda-ma-tenka, where I hope to see Mr. West-
beech, who has traded for about twelve years on the Zambesi,
and I may obtain from him reliable information as to the
country and the sway of the different chiefs.
My thought is to visit Moemba, Wankie, and other chiefs
along the river, and make my proposals to them, with a view of
getting invitations to visit their countries. But I may have
to return southward to meet any forthcoming fellow-labourer.
This would occupy at least nine months.
No one can guard against delays in this country, where time is
thought little of. The natives require months to think over
a matter that a white man would decide in a few moments. The
value of dear Dr. Moffat's advice to me when 1 was leaving
London, "Have patience! Have patience! Have patience!" is
more and more apparent.

22 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
I have abundant supplies of food, and there is plenty of game
to be had, so a lot of boys will be ready to go with me from the
Mababi for the sake of the flesh they hope to get. The natives
will not readily go with a white man if he does not shoot game.
CHIEF KAMA AND HIS PEOPLE.
I may here make some more remarks about Shoshong.
The moral condition of Shoshong is in many respects most
exemplary. Since coming here I have not seen an intoxicated
person, either black or white, which could not be said by anyone,
for the same period, in any other town in Africa where the white
man trades. The chief, Kama, has put down the drink traffic
most effectually. Not only has he forbidden it among his own
people, but he will not allow the liquor to pass through his
country ; consequently none has passed into Central Africa from
this side for some years, unless it be a very small quantity
occasionally smuggled in.
If a trader is found out once bringing drink into the place,
even for the use of the white people, he is turned off Kama's
territory, and never allowed to enter it again.
In many respects Kama is a noble chief, and it would be well
if other rulers imitated his unselfish Christian policy. None
of his people are allowed to want, if he can help it. If they are
too poor to buy, he provides them with a stock of cattle, the
increase of which belongs to the poor man; and thus Kama has
distributed during the last few years thousands of cattle to such
of his people as have suffered through loss of crops, cattle
disease, etc.
Athough he has stopped all beer-drinking amongst his people,
and put down many of the revolting heathen customs in which
formerly they delighted, yet they all like their chief, and would
almost to a man die for him.
Now and then Kama gets up hunts on a large scale to kill
the larger kinds of game. These hunting parties go far into the
desert, and often suffer greatly from want of food and water;
but the chief is always the first to go without his share, and will
not help himself until all are supplied, so that there is not the
slightest grumbling on the part of his followers.
In spite, however, of all the chief can do, very revolting

1882.] On- the Way to the Zambesi. 23
practices are carried on secretly among his people ; such as the
murdering of children. A deformed child is at once put to death;
twins are seldom allowed to live. If any peculiar circumstance
happen at the birth of a child, or any suspicious omen occur,
such as the call of certain animals or birds, the child is murdered.
The ordinary way is to pour boiling water down the child's throat,
and carry the body out to the wolves ; they also cast out the
old people. Some of them still cut their bodies, use enchant
ments, etc., but their heathen customs are not openly observed.
I can, nevertheless, say confidently that one would see more
vice and open immorality on a Saturday night in the High Street,
Glasgow, than would be seen here in twelve months.
The clothing of the people is scanty, but sufficient. They
are naturally civil and polite to each other, and when addressing
an older or superior person, finish every sentence with " my
father," or "my mother." Both young and old address me as
"my father,'' and often as "my lord;" but it is merely civility.
Shoshong is built and ordered after the manner of a military
camp, and everything is done by word of command. The gardens
are tilled at the word of the chief; the crops cannot be gathered
until the order is given. Each man is supposed to be able to
muster a gun or so many spears. The people in the town live
together in what might be called regiments, the huts of each
regiment being clustered round the hut of its captain ; and
around the town there is a double row of outposts, extending a
long way into the veldt.
I have seen two turn-outs of the army since I came. On one
occasion an attack was expected from the Matabele. When the
report first came every man at once armed himself, and all
began jointly to get themselves into training for fighting. For
several mornings in succession they had a grand race of six
miles. It was a strange sight to see ten or twelve thousand
men, in all sorts of fantastic dresses, running along as hard as
they could, all the time shouting and boasting of what they
could do. At another time Kama had some difficulty with the
Boer Government, and was afraid the Boers would attack him ;
but it soon passed off.
There is much in the history and folk-lore of these people
that is very interesting. An intelligent young trader told me that

24 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
in his wanderings among the northern Bechuana people he had
heard many speak of their tribe being descended from a certain
man, a kind of demi-god, named Loa (very like Noah), who
made all the animals, and sent them out of his house, two by
two.. Many of the names they have for the animals are very
ancient. They call the African gazelle the Tsephe, and I am told
that the Hebrew (Tsebe) for gazelle is the same word.
I am thankful that my lot is cast among these African people,
and am very willing for the "little while" to lay aside the
customs, company, and language of my own people, and spend
my short life in seeking to spread the gospel in their midst.
LEAVING THE LAST L. M. S. STATION.
Shoshong, June 8th, 1882. — Contrary to my intentions and '
expectations, I find myself now on the eve of starting for the
Zambesi. For two months my next step was hidden from me ;
but now it is, I think, made very plain that I should go on.
A week ago, Kama, having heard that my desire was to visit
the Batoka, he expressed his willingness to help me, and has
since proved it by placing at my service one of his waggons
and oxen to take me as far as the Mababi. At the same time he
sent orders by his chief hunter that I am to have as many
Basubia* men as I need to assist me onvto Panda-ma-tenka,
where I can easily get guides to take me down to the town of
Moemba, chief of the Batoka or Batonga. I have three donkeys
to carry my stuff, and sufficient supplies for bartering purposes
to take me comfortably there and back. If all goes well, I
hope I may be back before the very unhealthy season sets in;
that is, in October or November. I cannot, however, speak with
certainty. I earnestly desire the prayers of God's people, that
my going may be in the power of the gospel of Christ. My
heart fills as I think of this country, of the long, long time it
has waited for that gospel which was "for all people," and withal
of the willingness of the people to listen to it. I have now
* These Basubia were refugees from the Zambesi district, who had fled to
the Mababi country in order to be under the protection and just rule of Kama.
In 1883, however, the Matabele made raids into all parts of that country,
attacking their villages, and most of the people were obliged to return again
to the Zambesi.

1882.] On tJte Way to the Zambesi. 25
learned enough of the Sechuana language to enable me to get
on comfortably. So long as I can tell my own story in Sechuana,
I can always get an interpreter to translate my words into the
different Zambesi dialects.
If the Lord does not give me a fellow-labourer from my own
country, He may be pleased to give me a Christian native willing
to remain and travel with me. I rejoice to think that it is not
mine to choose my lot, but it is mine to follow with a willing
heart; and for this, God giveth "more grace,'' which is in all
cases sufficient.
June 6th. — -The danger of taking fever on the Zambesi at this
time of the year is small. I have now been in the fever district
for five months — the worst months of the year — and have never
enjoyed better health ; while many who have been born in the
country have suffered severely, and not a few have died.
There are certainly many wild animals all over the country
through which I shall have to pass ; it is only in hunting these
animals, however, that there is any real danger.
Every night, when travelling, the natives cut down a lot o
thorn bushes, and make with them a thick fence, called a
"skerm," and two large fires are placed at the opening, thus
forming a complete protection. Very seldom will a lion break
into a skerm, although at times they walk round it all night. The
principal danger is in travelling by night, and where water is
scarce one is compelled to -do so ; but if the party is kept well
together, and not allowed to scatter, there is very little danger, as
a lion will not attack a company.
Once when travelling up the Crocodile River, during the
night, I was walking behind Mr. Selous' waggon, and a young
man was driving some loose cattle not far from me. On reaching
the halting-place, towards morning, the cattle came up all right,
but the young driver was not with them. Search was made in
all directions, but without result, and we came to the conclusion
that a lion had carried him off, even though he was but a little
distance from the party. THE KALAHARI DESERT.
Near Shoshong, June 10th, 1882. — We have made two days'
journey into the desert. On leaving Shoshong the white people

26 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
were very kind, supplying me with much that I needed in the way
of food. Kama and his wife were also very kind. He wished
God to go with me, to save me by the way, and to bring me back
in peace. His wife said with tears, " May God go with you, and
remain with us, and fill you with blessing."
We shall have to work our way across to the Botletle River in
a zigzag fashion, from water to water.
HUNGER AND THIRST.
June 13th. — Yesterday we sent the oxen ten miles off to get
a drink. Poor animals, they suffer much from thirst ! The
hunters too have suffered from hunger. They have as yet not
been fortunate in finding game, and have had to go for days
with only a little corn, although it is the king's special hunting
party. Because of the famine that threatens Shoshong they
started with but a small supply of food, counting on getting
game; on the road.
18th. — I am writing in the centre of the north-east part of
the great Kalahari Desert, hoping to meet some native at the
Botletle River going down to Shoshong. We are losing no time
by the way, as we shall not have any water for nearly two days
and two nights. I have a fair supply of food with me ; for after I
had laid in, as I thought, a reasonable store, I found on starting
that a bag of rusks, a large loaf of bread, a small crock of butter,
some oranges from the Transvaal, a water-melon, etc., had been
sent to the waggon for me. I am beginning to know my fellow-
travellers a little now. Tinka is undoubtedly a decent fellow, and
I think a true Christian. At first, however, I felt a peculiar sense
of loneliness in finding myself surrounded by black faces, with no
one near to whom I could speak in my own tongue, but I have
got over that. Two other companies of hunters going on to the
Botletle River have joined us. ' They are a wild lot, and, away
from their town and chief, seem to enjoy their liberty immensely.
The camp at night would make a fine picture on canvas — ten or
twelve fires ; round each a crowd of black faces, some of the
men singing, talking, laughing, scolding, others tearing antelope's
bones to pieces. All around is pitchy dark, made doubly so by
the shade of the dense forest and bush, through which we pass
from time to time.

1882] On the Way to the Zambesi. 27
We have just got to another well, which is, however, almost
dry, and have travelled forty hours from the last water, during
which we only stopped for five hours ; the oxen have been
without water for three days. As there is not water enough for the
oxen and donkeys they have to go half a day further on. I was
glad, I assure you, to lie down and get a little sleep. The
endurance of these people astonishes me. Some of them walked
the whole time; and walking two days and a night through
loose sand is no easy thing. The first day we stopped two hours
for meals, during the night two hours for sleep, and two hours the
next day for food. Tinka as yet has no certain news as to water
beyond the Botletle River, so it is not clear whether we shall go
on or not. I am getting into training by walking a long distance
every day, and I can endure a good deal of thirst. The natives
drink a lot of water, and seem to suffer if they are without it for
one day.
Letlakani Water, June 21st. — We have got thus far, but are all
very tired. The waters were so very low and so few and far
between that we have had to push on, the oxen not being able
to get more than one drink at the different wells. Poor animals,
they do look knocked up, their necks all raw with the galling of
the yoke ! The wells are very deep, so that to water a span of
oxen is no light task, the men having to climb up and down with
pails of water. I am busy at making boots, and have success
fully finished one, which fits admirably (not to speak of appear
ance) ; the soles are giraffe-hide, the uppers, I think, are buffalo,
and are stitched with narrow strips of zebra-skin.
June 22nd. — We have met a trader going to Shoshong, so I
finish this letter at once. I am writing in the waggon while
travelling. We are a few hours from the Botletle river. It is
very hot, but I am keeping very well — indeed, could not be
better. VILLAGE PREACHING AMONG THE BECHUANA.
Botletle River, Sunday, June 25 th. — We reached this a few
hours after I sent off my last letter. We stay here eight days
altogether, and are outspanned in a most desolate spot. Behind
us is the great Kalahari Desert, and before us a great stretch of
reeds. A strong wind is constantly blowing from the desert,
bringing with it clouds of white sand ; but better to have a wind,

28 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
however charged with sand, than one charged with malaria from
the reeds. I thought a short account of my first effort at "village
work '' in the interior would interest you, so will tell you some
what about it. At home in eight days one could accomplish a
good deal, but not so here, the distances being very great. A
meeting is called for this afternoon, at which I am expected to
speak ; it will be my first attempt. I am very doubtful as to how
I shall make myself understood. Tinka asked me last night to
have meetings all along the river, as the people understand
Sechuana, which he thinks I speak well enough ; it will depend
upon how I get on this afternoon. Nothing would be a greater
pleasure to me, as many of the people in these towns have never
heard the gospel.
Sunday Evening.- — This evening, round three fires, we met for
prayer and reading. I got on pretty well, and most seemed to
understand me. Tinka and the Bamangwato understood every
word. All listened with eyes and mouth wide open ; so I am
much encouraged, and shall have meetings at all the little towns
we come to. To pray in another tongue seems very strange to
me, more so than speaking in it to the people. I can scarcely
describe the sense of relief felt, after straining to understand the
language for four months, to find that I am able in a measure to
tell the story I had come to make known. God has helped me
much more than my heart will acknowledge.
On Monday I got a young Christian from Shoshong, named
Ramosi, to accompany me. Like most native Christians, he can .
read and preach the gospel pretty well. We intended visiting
three villages.
The first we went to was Makoako, and to reach it we had
a long, tiresome walk, first through deep sand, and then for some
miles through reeds by a narrow winding path, in which there
was scarcely room for one to walk. Arriving at Makoaka about
mid-day, we found nearly all the inhabitants asleep. Taking our
seats in the kotla (the place of public meeting), we awaited
our audience. Those near awoke the others, and soon they
all came trooping out of their little huts. They listened closely.
The faces of most, however, showed that they were more occupied
with criticising than assenting ; still, it is ours to sow, and God's
to give the increase

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 29
The next village we reached was a small one. The men were
all away hunting, and the women out working, so we passed on.
We were not, however, able to reach the third village, for my
feet were sorely blistered, and so were Ramosi's. He said the
road was killing him. Turning our course for the waggon, we
reached it after again crossmg the stretch of reeds.
Tuesday was a very stormy day, the sand blowing all round in
great clouds, and we did not venture out ; my feet were also
too sore. On Wednesday we started again on the donkeys for a
village called Sosineu, which we reached about mid-day, and
found it quite a town. As we entered the donkeys caused a
great sensation. I suppose it was the first time such an animal
had been seen there. The people are Makalako, from the
Matabele country. They all understand Sechuana well, but are
wild and savage-looking. Taking our seats in the kotla, one of
the head men sent a messenger to call the people, and he went
round shouting in a most frantic manner. Every time he reached
the climax of his sentence he threw his arms into the air and '
jumped up, as if he were calling the people to a war dance.
His cry was for all the people — men, women, and children —
to come for " Sunday." In a short time a large crowd gathered,
the men sitting in one large ring, the women in another, and
we continued the meeting for fully two hours. I had, of course,
to keep very close to passages of Scripture, such as the Lord's
words in John x. The Shepherd giving His life for the sheep was
an illustration that seemed to get their attention. It was one they
could understand even better than people at home. They have,
however, little idea of what sin is ; but the Spirit of God is able
to convince of sin, and may please to use a very feeble word for
that end. Ramosi spoke very earnestly on the same subject. It
was evening ere we reached the waggon.
THE BOTLETLE RIVER.
We are not going to stay here eight days after all, but move off
to-day, so I shall not get to another village that I intended
visiting before leaving this part. Tinka has just told me that
he will have no difficulty in reaching the Mababi now. There is
water on ahead. I hope to be at the Zambesi, " if the Lord
will," in four weeks' time, which will be within a few days of

30 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
a year since I left home. Our course for three or four days lies
along the north bank of the river Botletle ; then we turn in
a N.N.W. direction for the Mababi, which we may reach in
two weeks. This letter will be taken to the chief Kama, one
of his messengers carrying it in a slit at the end of a long
stick. I may add that the Botletle River is remarkable as having
a double flow, according to the season of the year. When
Lake Ngami is full, its waters pour into the Botletle ; but in the
dry season, when the lake is low, the Botletle flows into it. In
following the course of the Botletle I was quite near to Lake
Ngami, which was one of Livingstone's early discoveries. The
Batauana, a section of the Bamangwato, live there. In con
nection with these natives, I may mention an instructive cir
cumstance. EFFECTS OF ADVERSITY AND PROSPERITY.
Some years ago Mr. Hepburn went as far as Lake Ngami to
assist Bechuana evangelists in beginning mission work. Apparently
they were so successful that the chief Moreme, son of the famous
Lisilatebe, professed conversion, and was baptized with many
of his people. They then liberated their Masaroa slaves, and
deposed their rain-doctors and fetish men.
A few months later the Matabele made a terrible raid upon the
Batauana, surprising and murdering in the most brutal manner
hundreds of women and children, and carrying off thousands
of cattle. The remnant of the tribe rebuilt their town, and
though defeated and plundered they were spiritually blessed by
this fiery trial. Some two years later the Matabele renewed the
attack, but found the Batauana on their guard. After some days
of severe fighting the Matabele were compelled to retire, dis
persed and defeated. Strange to say, this victory had a bad
effect upon the Christians. At first they were willing to acknow
ledge the hand of God in their deliverance, but giving way to
self-praise and congratulation they landed in the opposite ditch.
Moreme returned to his former heathen ways and ceremonies
and restored his numerous wives. This trial to the Christian
church there, more searching than the other, left but a few
faithful ones.

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 31
FOOD AND WATER ABUNDANT.
,Tontgaru Water, July 12th, 1882.— About lat. 190 40' S. ;
long. 240 45 ' E. I have again an opportunity to despatch a
letter, for Tinka is sending a message to the chief that we go
on to the Mababi, as there is plenty of water. It was thought
by every one that this part of the road was impassable. I was
told by some of the traders that it was madness to attempt it,
that my donkeys would die, and there were all sorts of stories
about perishing of thirst. Exceptionally late rains, however,
have fallen, and water has not only been found, but large sheets
of it are in the hollows.
We are now within a few days' journey of the Mababi, so I
may start for the Zambesi by the next moon (about July 20th),
when six days' fair walking will take me to the river. . I expect
to meet Westbeech, the trader, at Leshuma, a small town at the
junction of the Zambesi and the Chobe rivers. If he is not
there, he may be at Panda-ma-tenka, which I would reach, by
going- down the river bank to the Victoria Falls, and then
turning south three days. Westbeech understands the country,
and could supply me with guides to take me on. It is possible
that he may return southward in December, so I may come with
him, or at least send letters.
With all my heart I would desire to give a good report of the
way the Lord has dealt with me, and filled me with comfort and
joy. Since leaving the Botletle we have been travelling through a
wild but beautiful country, teeming, with game of all sorts. I
have installed Setobi as my huntsman. The game is large, and
not difficult to shoot, so that he is well able to keep " the pot "
supplied. It is surprising, however, to see how much these
people can eat. Tinka shot two giraffes on Saturday, and by
Sunday evening a few bones and some strings of meat hung up
to dry were all that was left, though there were only twenty
eaters. My own appetite surprises me; but, of course, I am
living entirely in the open air, and walking a good deal every
day. We are now getting well north, and I feel somehow nearer
home by being again in sight of the " Great Bear " constellation.
It is, however, much warmer here. This is the coldest month of

32 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
the year; yet during the day it is very hot — about 850 in the
shade, but the nights are decidedly cold. I get on pretty well
with the people ; we have prayer and reading every night and
morning, and on Sunday in the afternoon. I do not understand
the language sufficiently to appeal personally to their hearts. I
could not be in a better school, however, for learning the words
and idioms of the people ; yet it would be a treat to meet some
with whom I could speak in my own tongue. Had I known
earlier that Tinka would be sending a messenger I would have
written more.
I did not tell you in my last that when I was at the Botletle
River there was much fever, and many of the natives died of
it. Three of our own company were ill ; but I had not even a
headache. My sleeping accommodation is not the best — rough
but comfortable. When travelling I always sleep with my
clothes on. In Setobi I have a very faithful and trusty servant ;
he takes charge of all my property, and looks after my clothes
and goods as though they were his own. Nearly all my spare
time is occupied in getting up the Sechuana grammar, and in
learning portions of scripture in Sechuana. It is difficult to read
by the fires, and candle light is too expensive for much reading,
so that I spend the dark evenings mostly in thinking. Taking it
all round, my days pass very pleasantly indeed, and also very
quickly. There is nothing that I want that I have not got. I
was much blessed in reading Psalm cvi. My prayer this morning
was according to verses 4 and 5 ; they are very full of blessed
meaning. Recently we have got on well on the whole, having found an
abundant supply of water. DESERT EXPERIENCES.
July 13th. — We started from Tontgaru Water this morning.
Tinka having sent on some men to look for water, we went on
for three days and nights with scarcely a stoppage ; it was hard
work, the bush being so very dense. I calculated that we travelled
forty miles in twenty-four hours, or about thirty miles as the crow
flies, in a N.W. by W. direction.
On Sunday morning we arrived at a camp of Masaroa Bushmen,
and sent forward the oxen and donkeys to find water, expecting

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 33
them to return on Monday evening. The people, including
myself, were supplied with drinking water by the Masaroa, who
' sank long tubes, made of reeds, into the ground at the bottom
of a pit dug in the sand. They sucked the water up through
these tubes, as it very slowly accumulated, and spat it out into
tortoise-shells which they handed to us. It was very frothy stuff,
as you may imagine, but I enjoyed it more than any draught I
ever took of Loch Katrine water. Long practice enables the
Bushmen to suck up the water through the tube; I tried it
myself, but could not succeed.
The oxen and' the donkeys did not return until Wednesday
evening, having had to go two days' journey before they found
water, and then only a little pan of surface water which they
emptied. We found afterwards that, between that and the
Mababi river (two days further on), there was not a drop to
be had. The cattle could not have gone a day further, as they
had already been six days without water — the longest time they
have been known to live without it— so that but for that little
pan of water, which was found almost unexpectedly, we should
have lbst both oxen and donkeys, and, as Tinka says, "very
few of the people with us would have got through;" for when
the oxen returned that evening, the Masaroa sucked out of the
ground the last drop of water they could procure.
As for myself, a very little more of that sort of fare would
have, humanly speaking, been too much for me. I do not mean
that I suffered seriously from thirst, but I got into a very reduced
state. After giving the cattle a night's rest, we started early on
Thursday morning for the Mababi, Tinka and the other huntsmen
of the company riding on to find the nearest water, as we had
only a very limited supply in the waggon. I had but a pint
and a half for a four days' journey; nor had we any meat, no
game having been killed iii the desert. I had meal with me,
but could not cook it for want of water, so my staple supply
was a few dry peaches that I had brought from Shoshong. On
Friday, July 2 ist, we were still a long way from the Mababi River.
I had finished my supply of water the day before, and the natives
declared that they were all dead.
My conviction was that we should not suffer from thirst much
D

34 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
longer. I was lying back in the waggon, and had just mentioned
to the Lord that promise, " Their water shall be sure," when a
young man of the company asked me if I wished to drink.
Three Masaroa, sent by Tinka, had brought three calabashes
full of water for us, so that we all had a drink of it. The next
thing was to try and find a little food. Setobi was too much
knocked up to go and hunt, so I started with one of Tinka's
men to look for something. We walked a long way through
thick wood but got nothing; and then, finding we were too far
from the waggon to be sure of meeting it again, we decided to
make for the Mababi River.
After wandering along through thick wood and bush and
patches of long, reedy grass, we struck a footpath leading in the
direction of the river. Just as the sun was sinking I shot an
antelope; it rolled over, then got up and ran into some bush.
The man who was with me said it would soon die, but that we
must push on as the river was very far away yet ; so on we went,
the night setting in clear, so that we could see the path. On and
on we walked for a long time, till at last through the trees we
saw the fires of a camp of Masaroa Bushmen.
THE MABABI RIVER.
We found that the river was close by; so after eating some
meat and drinking some water which they kindly brought me I
thankfully lay down beside their fire for the night, though I did
not sleep much. As it was very cold I was also glad to share the
warmth of their skin wraps. The Bushmen kept up a continual
talk ; then some lions began roaring, the dogs of the Bushmen
replying in a tone as shrill as possible. Towards morning I
slept a little.
These Bushmen live a strange, wild life, constantly moving
about. At night they make no protection against the lions. A
few nights before a woman of their company whilst asleep was
seized by a lion and had her head much torn. I was asked
to do something for her, but could do little, the flesh having
been torn right off her head and gathered up in a big lump at
the back.
Next morning I started along the river to some Basubia towns.
On the way I met Tinka returning. He wished to wait for the

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 35
waggon, so I gladly sat down with him, and it came along during
the day. These nine long, long days I shall not soon forget.
Sunday, July 2yd, 1882. — All the talk among the people was
of the wonderful escape they had made. Exaggerating step
by step, they made out that a perfect miracle had been wrought
In the evening Tinka talked to the rest very earnestly, and read
in Psalm cxv. 1 : " Not unto us, O Lord, not unto us, but unto
Thy name give glory." THE BASUBIA.
July 24th. — A lot of Basubia men from the towns near us
came around the waggon, and I bought maize-corn, beans, etc.,
from them in exchange for beads. There is a glorious field
for the gospel here. Besides several towns of Makalaka, and
several troops of wandering Masaroa, I am sure there are
several thousand Basubia. Along the Mababi they have never
been visited by any messenger of the gospel. The nearest
mission station is Shoshong. Some of these Basubia men said to
me how glad they would be to have a teacher among them. The
district is, however, undoubtedly unhealthy, the river bed being
an immense stretch of marshes and reeds.
I bought from the Basubia to-day an extra supply of maize,
and was quite busy arranging my bundles for the carriers — a
very difficult thing to do, as the men continually question the
fairness of their loads as compared with those of others.
July 26th. — The chief man of the Basubia was not at home,
so the headmen, who came to the waggon to-day to consult
about matters, said that before they could decide to give me men
they would have to refer to the chief's wife. She said that if it
was the word of Kama that the Basubia men should go with me
it was all right. But even without Kama's word I should have
had no difficulty in getting carriers, for the people would go
any distance for a little powder.* I agreed to give each man
five bullets, five charges of powder, and five caps, to carry
40 lbs. from here to Panda-ma-tenka (a distance of 250 miles),
and, of course, they will have to walk back again. Powder, lead,
* Being refugees from the Zambesi, and longing to return to their homes in
peace, they thought that I might perhaps be able to intercede for them with
the chief. I did so, and many did return.

$6 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
and caps fetch an enormous price here. I have also to provide
food for these men.
27A&. — Walked to the Basubia towns to-day, the nearest being
about twelve miles from the waggon. I visited two of them, and
at the first was very well received. The people all turned out
and listened to the Word, and then brought me three baskets
of corn.
At the other town, which was a little further on, I was received
saucily, and the people were not much inclined to listen to
"this new thing;" at first, in fact, they refused altogether. I
asked them if they would hear me if I returned. This they
promised to do. As I was moving off they changed their minds,
and said they would hear me now. The tardiness of the older
men in allowing me to read the word of God and to speak
seemed to have a good effect in rousing the curiosity of the
young men, for they listened eagerly. One man doubly repaid
me for all their grunts by a deep sigh, which seemed to come
from his' heart, and told what his lips could not have spoken.
Still further on there are many more towns all inhabited by
Zambesi refugees.
In the evening I chose six stalwart men, besides a Bechuana
who wants to go with me, and another young man who goes
for his food. Further on I hope to get another guide. The
advantage of having two guides is, that one can take a round in
search of water, whilst the other leads the party.
29M. — I find I have made a mistake in engaging my men so
soon, as they have taken up their quarters beside the waggon,
and look to me to feed them here. I went out to-day to get
some meat to help my supply of maize for the men. Walked
a long way and found nothing, but in returning to the waggon I
shot a wild boar. I have arranged with the Bechuana who is to
go with me to Leshuma, that I feed him and supply him with
powder and lead, and in return he is to hunt for me.
Lord's-day, July 30th. — Having so far got everything into
marching order, I feel thankful for a day of rest before I start.
I rejoice to think that the issue of this journey is with the Lord,
and that He will be my guide.
The waters are scarce and uncertain by the route I have
decided to take; viz., in a straight line from here to the junction

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 37
of the River Chobe with the Zambesi. True, by crossing right
over to the Chobe, and following its course to the Zambesi, I
could go by a road with an abundant supply of water ; but the
tsetse" fly being numerous along the Chobe, my donkeys might
suffer. I can scarcely realize that I am within six days' walk of
the Zambesi. THE TSETSE FLY.
It may be well to say something here about this peculiar
African pest. Many travellers in Africa have written about the
tsetse" fly, and have described its colour and its venom, yet very
few people at home have any idea of the terrible impediment this
little fly is to the opening up of the African continent. It appears
like some peculiar addition to the curse ; for not only have the
poor sons of Africa to labour for their existence against " thorns
and briers," but in many parts they are also prevented from
utilising the ox or horse as other nations do. Consequently not
only is a wheeled vehicle unknown in Central Africa, but also
beasts of burden; and the way that every branch of ordinary
domestic work falls upon the shoulders of human beings, makes
the business of life one of constant labour and toil.
The tsetse" fly is not, to my knowledge, found anywhere south
of the Mababi flat. Along the southern bank of the Zambesi
and Chobe rivers, however, it abounds; but when the traveller
comes upon open, treeless, marshy country the fly disappears.
For this reason the Barotse are able to keep large herds of cattle
on the open flats along the Upper Zambesi. The Mashukulumbe
tribes also, along the Kafaukwi river, have very large herds of
cattle, of an indigenous but very small breed. But these require
continual watching to prevent their wandering off in the direction
of the forest, where the tsetse" fly is found. The natives, how
ever, are very skilful in taking their herds from place to place
through the fly-stricken districts, travelling at night through the
forest, and encamping during the day in the centre of open flats.
Fortunately, during the cold season the fly does not bite at
night, and the natives take advantage of this in moving their
herds. It is also curious to observe that wherever the buffaloes
and larger antelopes are killed off or chased out the fly
disappears. Singularly enough, however, although the bite of
these flies is so fatal to oxen, they are not attracted towards the

38 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
districts in which oxen are kept, but follow the buffaloes and
larger game into the wooded parts. In appearance the tsetse" is
very like the ordinary house fly, except that it is a little larger, and
lighter in colour. It has not, however, the buzzing, importunate
ways so common in the house fly, and is not an annoying creature
like the mosquito. I have seldom found the mosquito and the
tsetse" together ; and the fact that the flat, open, grassy plains are
the favourite haunts of the mosquito may be the reason why the
tsetse fly avoids these parts, and takes to the forest belts, where
the mosquito is seldom found. The bite of the tsetse', it may be
added, though fatal to cattle and some large game, is harmless
to men and goats, and the traveller finds the mosquito far more
troublesome to deal with. Donkeys resist for a long time the
effects of the tsetse poison, but often succumb at last. Even in
cattle the poison usually only causes death after some weeks,
during which the animals gradually fail.
Kama's hunter leaves.
July 31st.— On the point of starting I have changed my plans,
and decided to go by the Chobe, thinking I had better run the
risk of losing my donkeys than of losing human life. On the
direct line to Leshuma, water is undoubtedly very scarce, and
becoming scarcer every day. My men were willing to go which
ever way I chose, but greatly preferred the Chobe. Tinka did
what he could to prevent my going by the Chobe, but took a
pleasant farewell. I have now no doubt he is a Christian.
This morning I was up before the sun, and set to work in real
earnest in laying out the loads, which contained :
70 lbs. of wheat-meal.
Three sacks, 35 lbs. each, of food for the men.
40 lbs, of dried meat.
One box, in which were tea, cocoa, candles, etc., weighing
¦ about 50 lbs.
Two sailor's canvas sacks, filled with beads, clothing, calico, etc.
Books, ammunition, and spare lead made another man's load
My knapsack was filled with medicines. This was carried,
with pots and pans, in a basket.
My own supply of water was contained in four small wooden
kegs.

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 3g
By about nine o'clock all was ready for a start. I called over
the names of the men, each one answering and getting his load ;
all seemed well pleased. The party mustered twenty, including
Bushmen, and one or two others not employed by me. We
started in a north-westerly direction.
The first march was very tiresome, being across the bed of
reeds and marsh into which the Mababi river flows — an immense
bed of slush, and of reeds which towered a long way above one's
head, and at times were so close together that one could not see
his neighbour a few steps on before. We found the ground, or
rather the layer of rotten reeds and sand, very difficult to walk
over, and we sank at times almost up to our knees. I thought
we should never get the donkeys through ; , but by about four
o'clock p.m. we managed to get on solid ground, and made for a
Masaroa town, where we expected to find water. The water-pit
being nearly dry, there was nothing for the poor donkeys; we
remained there for the night, as I expected the waters in front
would also fail us, but I had made up my mind not to leave
until my donkeys had a good drink. The Masaroa kept on
drawing water, and scarcely left us enough to drink ; still I waited
patiently, and after midnight, when the water had gathered again,
I sent out six men who emptied the pit, yet brought enough for
the donkeys. ON TOWARD THE CHOBE RIVER.
August ist, 1882. — We were up before daybreak and off as
quickly as possible, having a long and probably dry tramp before
us. We got on well to-day, having to go over good firm ground,
though the bush was very thick and thorny. Before sundown we
chose as comfortable a looking place as possible, and in about
half-an-hour's time the men made a "kotla." The Basubia
know well how to make one snug for the night. They cut down
branches of trees and stick them in the ground, forming a half
circle ; bring wood for the fire (we burn no less than seven big
fires all night), and cut grass to sleep on. Then the bundles
are brought and laid down at my head, and Setobi puts the
kettle on the fire. After supper, leaving a little in the pots for
an early morning repast — we cook but one meal a day — I read
and pray in Sechuana to the men. It does not take much rocking
to send me to sleep.

40 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
no WATER.
August 2nd. — Made a good start this morning, and walked a
long way; the sand was very heavy, but we pushed on hard,
expecting to get water at a placed called Caucon. Arriving at
the pan. we were disappointed to find that elephants had been
there before us, and drunk up all the water. This is rather a
serious fix, as the donkeys, being almost done up with carrying
heavy loads, refuse to eat, and drag along painfully; besides,
our drinking water is exhausted, and we are fully sixty miles
from the River Chobe. Two of the men set to work digging
a well at the foot of the pan, but, after going through a little
damp mud, turned up nothing but dry white sand. After pro
longed consultation (and, I assure you, I earnestly consulted
the Lord in the matter), I decided not to go on further, but
the next morning to send the men out in all directions in search
of water. The lives of the whole party depended, humanly speak
ing, on our finding water on the morrow, as already most of us
were much exhausted, having gone over seventy miles of rough,
weary country in the last three days.
August yd. — Early this morning I sent Setobi with six men
and the donkeys in the direction of the Sambuti River, hoping to
find water thereabouts. Another party set out in the direction of
the Caucon Hill to dig a well in a hollow there, while I " remained
by the stuff" with a Basubia; we had only about half a pint
of water, which at the present moment is worth more to me than
half a ton of gold. I am hopeful that Setobi will find water ; if
he does not he need not return ; but all is well, for it is in my
Lord's hands. As yet I have lacked no good thing, and am
persuaded He will not leave me now. His presence and His
promises are better than water.
Afternoon. — Those who had gone out to dig for water returned
without finding any, and, looking very downcast, they all began
sucking away at the damp mud close by. I tried to suck some
water out of the mud, but it was something like the dregs of a
farmyard ; so I gave up, and returning to the kotla, fell asleep. I
had not slept long when one of the men awoke me with " Monare,
loot, loot I" and I saw at some little distance a string of men
coming, each with a calabash full of water over his shoulder.
Setobi had met a party of Tinka's Bushmen hunters who were

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 41
following the spoor of the elephants. The Bushmen took Setobi
to one of their secret water stores, where the donkeys got a drink,
and enough water also was left to succour us. I need not say
how thankful I felt for this deliverance.
August 4th. — We were a little longer in starting this morning
as I had to re-adjust the men's bundles ; they were beginning to
complain about the weight of them. We made about thirty miles
to-day over heavy sand, passed the Gorgoli Hills, and camped in
the midst of a very dense forest, as we found we could not get
through it before sunset.
$th. — Had a long tramp to-day through a beautiful country,
thickly wooded and full of game. During the last few days I
have seen quite a lot of giraffes ; the country here is full of them.
We arrived in the evening at a pit with a little water in it, which
we reached after some digging. The men are getting very
troublesome, fretting about their loads, and demanding gun
powder ; in fact, they made quite a revolt this afternoon. Bringing
their loads to me, they laid them down, saying they would not go
further, but would return home unless I gave them my powder.
I sat down beside the stuff, looked at them awhile, and soon they
began to shoulder their sticks. I said it was all right, and bade
them Samaea sintly, i.e., " Go pleasantly." This rather amused
them ; their scowling faces relaxed a bit, but they began again,
trying with their threatenings and impudence to rouse my temper.
I answered all their talk with " I hear you," until they gradually
subsided. You see I am getting a taste of some of the diffi
culties of travelling in this country.
In the evening the man who had been the most troublesome,
and had led on the others, seemed somewhat sorry for the way
he had spoken to me, and began saying what great respect he
had for missionaries. I shall watch him closely in future. Another
cause for grumbling turned up in the evening. The food supply
was running short, as we had shot no game, and I had to
serve out a small allowance.
Sunday, August 6th. — I was compelled, for the sake of food
for the men, to move off this morning. Going in front to look
for game, I came across a large troop of zebras, and also found
an ostrich's egg, which will serve for my dinner. We camped
about 1 1 o'clock, and I sent five men out to hunt the zebras.

42 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
BY THE CHOBE TO THE ZAMBESI.
We are now close to the Chobe River. I shall never forget
the effect that the first sight of that great stream had, not
only upon myself, but also upon the poor men with me. What
a feeling of disappointment came over me when I found that
I was satisfied with only a few cups full, whereas I felt I could
have drunk buckets full ! This morning, before starting, the men
had a sort of religious service over their guns. Laying their
firearms (six in all) down in a row, they all sat around them, and
one began to sing a dirge and to tap each gun, while the rest
were keeping time by beating the palm of one hand with the fist
of the other; they then sprinkled the guns with water, and
finished up with a long shout. This they repeated twice, saying
it was to make their guns kill well.
This evening the men returned with a young zebra. Now, at
last, I have found out the reason why they have gone on so
unwillingly for a day or so, and are loth to go down and camp on
the Chobe, as I would wish. They have been hearing from the
Masaroa that the Barotse are vowing destruction on the Basubia
who fled to the Mababi, saying that when the rains fall they will
come down and kill them all. It seems that the Barotse have
been victorious over the Bashukulumbe, and are now scattering
in all directions the inhabitants north of the Zambesi. The last
news is that they are among the Batoka in the hills, and are
killing them off. Oh, the terribleness of war ! When I was in
Natal, the Boer war was threatening to break out again, and
feeling was running high. I had scarcely arrived in the Transvaal
when war broke out among the nations over the border, and
I ran a narrow escape of being commanded for military service.
On arriving at Shoshong, the first news I heard was that the
Matabele were expected, and that in all directions the cattle
of the Bamangwato were coming in. The morning after my
arrival there all the men of the town were turned out on parade
to prepare for immediate action, but news came in a few days
that the Matabele had turned. At Mababi I heard of ravages
and bloodshed quite near by a company of the Matabele. The
Masaroa of a whole town, whom Tinka was expecting to come
and hunt for him, were massacred ; and had the Matabele troop
been a little stronger they would have come on to the Mababi.

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 43
Now that I am nearing the Zambesi, reports of war and blood
shed increase more and more.
I have been reading lately in the ninth chapter of Romans.
Does it not explain why God bears with people now, and that it
is only because of the grace of God that any one of us is
different from others ?
Monday, August jth. — I ascertained to-day from Kama's
Masaroa that there was but little game on before, and that we
were a full five days' march from Leshuma. So I decided to
remain two or three days to dry some flesh for food for future
use. 8th. — A fair supply of zebra flesh has been brought in by the
men, and all round the camp to-day flesh, cut in long strips, is
hung on long poles to dry. A troop of zebras passed close to
our camp, and my three donkeys seeing them started after at
full gallop, and soon joined them, when the troop made off.
Setobi and the other Bechuana went in pursuit of them. Hour
after hour passed by with no news of the donkeys, and I confess
I felt very uncomfortable, the men being ready to leave me at a
moment's notice, my donkeys away, and myself a hundred miles
from any inhabited part. Greatly to my relief, just as the sun
was setting, the donkeys appeared with the two Bechuana. We
are surrounded for miles and miles by thick woods, and, humanly
speaking, it was hopeless to follow them. "Bob," however, did
not' seem to take so well to his new companions as the other two
donkeys did, and withdrew from them. Ramatlodi, the Bushman,
_ made up to him, and, wisely mounting, whipped him up. " Bob "
made off at a run, kept most faithfully to the spoor of the other
two donkeys and the zebras, and after a long run got up with
them. The donkeys were by this time fighting with the zebras,
and kicking each other. When Ramatlodi showed himself, the
zebras scampered away, and the donkeys submitted to be driven
back. The man had gone fully twelve miles after them.
gth. — After drying about 200 lbs. of flesh I got a start this
evening, and camped close by the Chobe, which flows into the
Zambesi. 10th. — During the night I lost my faithful dog Judy. She was
barking away at my side, and I looked up and told her to be
quiet. In a short time she began barking again ; then followed

44 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
a deep growl with a rush, and poor Judy squeaked her last. I
had scarcely time to look up ere a tiger had cleared the fires and
was off. The brute must have been very hungry to have ventured
so near for a supper. These tigers, properly leopards, are very
plentiful and destructive, and, in fact, though not so powerful, are
more dangerous than lions.
We had a good day's journey along the Chobe to-day; on the|,
whole the ground was good for walking, but we had to wade
through one lagoon. We just get glimpses of this great river,
the reeds are so tall and thick. It is, however, a refreshing sight
to see such an immense body of water rolling along. The men
are fond of their river, and have been singing away at their old
canoe-songs, which are very musical and plaintive.
nth. — The river is now running in one broad, deep channel
close to the path. It is quite a treat to walk along the thickly-
wooded bank, clad with all sorts of tropical creepers and flowers.
The trees are full of monkeys, baboons, and beautiful birds.
Every now and then a troop of antelopes scamper past, and on
the river are all kinds of rare and splendid waterfowl. To-day
I saw an immense hippopotamus rolling about in the water.
Every thing is the perfection of beauty and symmetry, and the
fearful, suspicious way in which my men creep along declares that
" only man is vile." They are in mortal dread of their lives.
We sighted a town on the other side of the river, and this
disturbed them greatly. At first they refused to sleep at the
place I had chosen for the night, and wanted to hide in the
forest. They declared that the Barotse would cross during the
night and kill them all. Talk as I will I cannot lessen their
fears. They refuse to go along the river any further, and say that
unless I turn from the river and make for Leshuma across the
sand-belt they will forthwith desert. I refused at first, but when
I saw that they really meant it I gave in.
12th.— After a restless night on the part of the men we started
early this morning along the river for one short march. It was
most impressive, yet I must say I could not help laughing to see
how the men stole along through the high grass, glancing every
now and then across the river, fearing that they might be seen by
their dreaded enemies. At last we turned from the river inland,
or, speaking more correctly, west by one point north. The sand

1882.] On the Way to the Zambesi. 45
was very heavy, and reflected the heat of the sun painfully. We
pushed on hard, hoping to reach a Masaroa well in the evening.
We had a most tiresome walk, and shortly after sunset arrived at
a well, very deep, but with nothing in it.
Sunday, August 13th. — I sent three men to dig the well
deeper, hoping to strike water, so that we might rest to-day,
but it was in vain, so off we started. The sun was very hot, yet
we could not wait, and walked on without resting to take breath
more than five or ten minutes at a time. At last we reached a
well with some water in it, which, after a little digging, proved
sufficient for the night. Although tired enough, my skin is so
burnt with the sun that I can get little rest at night. I feel as if
I were lying on raw flesh. THE ZAMBESI REACHED.
August 14th. — About mid-day, as we reached a hill top, we
came in sight of Leshuma with the Zambesi in the distance.. I
sat down to rest a bit, and wondered at the grace and tenderness
of my God who had brought rne thus far. I sang the hymn,
"Simply trusting," and it filled my soul — not that my trust has
ever been so simple or real as the words of the hymn express,
but I felt that it was no vain thing to trust the Lord, even though
my measure had been small. Above all, there is a fulness of joy
in proving the word of God, in finding that the same wondrous
grace of God which gives us promises is able to fulfil and does
fulfil them to us.
At length, after a long two months' journey from Shoshong,
I have reached the Zambesi River without a blister on my feet,
and, but for my sorely burnt skin, in perfect health. The sun
has in no way affected my head.

II.
among tfre barotse.
(August, 1882, to May, 1884.)
Leshuma — Difficulties with my Men — Forced March — Panda-ma-tenka — The
Batoka — Back to Leshuma — Cross the Zambesi — Shesheke — Reception by
Headmen — Return to Panda-ma-tenka — Fever on the way — Start for
Lealui — Boats sent by the King — Ascending the Zambesi — Crocodiles
supply Food — Reach Capital — Boiling-pot Ordeal — Break in Diary —
Livingstone's Description — School-keeping — Covetousness — " Lequalo " —
Human victims — Manners and Customs — Cruelty — Trust in Kings — Power'
of Conscience — Jesuit Missionaries — " In necessities " — To Panda again
for Goods — Victoria Falls — Re-ascend the River — A Chapter in African
History — Reasoning with the King — Life at Lealui — Extreme Heat —
Climate and Health — Rumours of Civil War — Senhor Porto urges visit to
Bihe — Farewell to the King. LESHUMA.
August 14th, 1882. — The Basubia would not go down to Le
shuma until Ramatlodi and I went on to see if the way were clear.
I found Leshuma nearly deserted; only a few Masaroa women
and children were there. Mr. Westbeech was at Shesheke;
another white man, named Woods, who formerly lived here, was
dead, also his wife; and Mr. Blockley had gone to Panda-ma-
tenka. I sent to let the Basubia know that the way was certainly
clear enough, and they stole down, deposited their bundles, and
forthwith demanded their pay. They wanted to return at once,
and refused to go to Panda-ma-tenka. Ramatlodi also wished
to go back, so that I was left with three donkeys, Setobi, and
a boy, to go on to Panda-ma-tenka. No natives were living
near; they had all fled before a scouring band of Matabele.
After a deal of talking I paid off the men, giving each of them
fully ten charges of powder, caps, half a bar of lead, and half a
yard of cloth, which is big pay.

Aug. 1882:] Among the Barotse. 47
DIFFICULTIES WITH MY MEN.
How I was ever to reach Panda-ma-tenka I did not know.
After paying all off, I gathered them together, and, mustering all
my Sechuana, I gave them a long address, speaking for fully an
hour, and finished by showin'g them how cruel they were in
forsaking me with little food by me, and no means of getting to
Panda-ma-tenka. I should have to leave all my goods to be
stolen by the Masaroa, or to burn them ; how would they answer
to Kama when called upon to account for their actions, and how
would they answer to God for leaving His servant to perish in
the desert? Ramatlodi, the Bechuana, was the first to give in,
though he was previously bent on returning ; he, no doubt, felt
the force of my remarks in speaking of Kama, and what he
would think of his actions. He said he would not leave me, but
would go to Panda-ma-tenka. Then three Basubia said they
would not leave, and two Masaroa, who before refused my
proffered hire, offered their services; so that with Setobi I have
my full complement of carriers. I will drive the donkeys myself,
so that we shall get along famously.
My purpose is to take a straight line from here to Panda-ma-
tenka. The temptation certainly is strong to go round by the
Victoria Falls; but as neither the time nor the money I have
belongs to me, I do not feel justified in adding three or four
days' journey for mere sight-seeing.
This evening, since the Basubia who refused to go further
have departed, a much happier feeling seems to be among my
men. I have served out as liberal a supply of food to them
as I can, and they are talking of how well they will get along.
We have three days' desert between this and Panda-ma-tenka, ,
but the men say they are willing to travel night and day if
I like. August 1 $th. — I would gladly rest here to-day, but have,
no food for the men. Mr. Westbeech left behind him two little
goats, which I shall kill. I intend # to start this evening and
make a push for Panda-ma-tenka. Having sixty miles of dry
country before me, and the donkeys being in a poor way, and
little able to stand more thirst, we shall begin to travel night
and day.

48 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
A FORCED MARCH.
x6th. — Last night we made a good long journey, and towards
morning slept a few hours. The road, though through thick bush
and sand, is easily followed. I was up and off before the sun
rose, and towards mid-day we lay down in the shade a short time.
A small abscess has formed under my toe, Causing much pain,
but with a long stick as a crutch, I have managed to keep up with
the rest. The night was dark, and the road bad, but we kept on,
expecting at every fresh start to reach the Gezumba pan before
halting. At last we gave in, and lay down beside some thick
bush for shelter, knowing we were not far from water.
17M. — My toe being very painful, I started before the others
and hobbled along. A half-hour's walk brought us to the
Gezumba pan, which is within three hours' walk of Panda-ma-
tenka. But for my toe I should go on, but shall rest to-day.
This is the quickest march I have had yet, doing sixty miles in
one day and two nights. The distance was considered by the
Bushmen, from whom I got directions as to the road, to be
a three days' journey. I hope the donkeys feel grateful. I
certainly felt anything but fresh to-day; the painful shuffling
on the outer edge of my foot over the last twenty miles has
strained all the muscles of my body. I lanced the toe to-day,
and shall get along nicely to-morrow.
' PANDA-MA-TENKA.
i8//z. — Felt all right this morning, and was able to walk with
comparative comfort ; so I set off before the rest, and reached
Panda-ma-tenka about mid-day. It is a little clump of huts
on the top of slightly rising ground, surrounded by low marsh.
The Jesuits have built a comfortable-looking house and chapel.
The rest of the people live in huts, among whom are Mr. Blockley,
a trader, also a Dutchman, and the wives and families of three
or four Hottentot hunters, who at present are out hunting.
Mr. Blockley received me very kindly, and gave me a grass hut
to live in as long as I may-remain here. In a short time my men
and donkeys arrived, and I settled with them as liberally as I
could. In the evening I had a long talk with Mr. Blockley. He
tells me that the river is just now entirely barred against any
white man crossing.

1882.] Among the Barotse. 49
My idea, as you know, was to cross if possible at Wankie's,
and go down to Moemba's town. Last year the Jesuits went
down to Moemba's, where one died. A lot of goods was also
stolen from them ; so the rest returned, giving up for the time the
intention of settling there. They have since found the Barotse
slow to receive them, ' and are making a second attempt to
reach Moemba's; but Mr. Blockley tells me that the Barotse
have sent down messengers saying, that if they let them or any
other white man cross they will kill them all.
THE BATOKA.
Judging from Mr. Blockle/s information, the Batoka people,
whom it has been my aim to reach, are evidently, in many
respects, an exceptional race ; only a few of them are here now.
They cover an immense tract of country right along the north
bank of the river up to Moemba's; then they take to the hills
and the district north of the Falls. Their towns are three days'
journey from the river. This is the substance of Mr. Blockley's
conversation during the last three days.
He strongly advises me, as the only way of getting among the
Batoka, to visit first the Barotse king and get permission from
him to cross the river. If once I obtained his consent to
this I could go anywhere on the other side, and would have an
immense field of work. How to reach the Barotse king is a
difficult question. It means a long, toilsome journey of thirty
days from here up the river. I could not make up my mind to
attempt this ; so I let the matter rest for a day, and set to work
to repair an old cart that I had bought for very little from
Mr. Blockley to take me back to Shoshong, if it should seem
advisable to return there.
I felt I could only cry to God for these people, that He would
send the gospel among them by whomsoever He chose. The
work is His own. BACK TO LESHUMA.
August igth. — Mr. Blockley said he was afraid he would have
to go up the river to buy corn. Two waggons had gone the other
way two weeks ago, and word had just come that no corn was
to be had. So he has decided to go up the river, and asked me
to accompany him. He will go by waggon to Leshuma, walk
E

So

Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.

to Inparairie, and send messengers on to Shesheke. I at once
said I would go with him, believing that such an exceptional
opportunity was from the Lord.
Mr. Blockley had just left Leshuma, not intending to return
there this year. He remarked to-day how annoyed he felt at
having to go there to buy corn, when he had so much work to do
at Panda-ma-tenka, but that he could not help it. How mighty is
our God ! How He can use all things and all men for His
purposes !
Mr. Blockley is well known on the river, and through his
influence the headmen at Shesheke might allow me to pass up,
without having to wait for the return of a messenger whom I
should have to send to the king.
Monday, August 21st— Busy to-day getting things ready to
start to-morrow morning in Mr. Blockley's waggon.
24th. — Arrived at Leshuma this evening after a pleasant journey
of three days. CROSSING THE ZAMBESI.
August 25th. — Off as early as possible for the Zambesi. The
path lay through a thickly-wooded tropical valley, full of rich
herbage. We reached the river about mid-day, but as the wind
was very strong and the water rough, the old man in charge of
the ferry would not answer our call for some time ; so I was able
to look around and take a good view of the river. We rested at
the point where the waters of the Chobe and the Zambesi meet.
The Zambesi at that point is as broad as the Clyde at Dum
barton, and is very deep from bank to bank; the Chobe is a
little narrower. Late in the afternoon the old man started in
his canoe, but instead of coming over to us he went a long way
up the river and crossed to the island of Inparairie. However,
he came down after- a time and landed where we were. After
talking and waiting, he agreed to ferry us over for so much.
Three trips took us and our bundles across in his cranky canoe.
Everything got wet, and I had to sit down in water. The edge
of the canoe — the trunk of a tree shaped a bit and hollowed out
— was scarcely a handbreadth from the water, and all the little
waves came right in, so that Setobi had a hard half-hour's work in
baling out the water.
The boatman understood that I was a servant of Mr. Blockley's,

1882.] Among the Barotse. 51
and so took me on board his craft without any question. We
had not got far, however, when Mr. Blockley's boy, who was
rowing in front, told him I was a Marute; i.e., a teacher. Much
alarmed at this, the old man wanted to take me back again. The
boy seemed to understand the difficulty, for he put matters
right by assuring him that I was not one of the Panda-ma-tenka
Marutes (Jesuits who are staying there), but quite different. After
a good deal of explanation on the boy's part, the boatman
pushed on and took me across. Mr. Blockley came in the next
boatload, and was able to pacify the old man. It seems that he
has orders not to allow the Jesuits to cross the river until the
chief sends down word. After settling with the boatman, we set
off for the nearest town, intending to sleep there.
KINDNESS OF THE BATOKA.
The north bank of the river rises steep from the water's edge,
so our way lay uphill. As the sun was setting, I had a grand
view of the river and of miles upon miles of country stretching
far south, beautifully undulating and thickly wooded. We arrived
at a little Batoka town in the evening, and were well received.
The people showed us into a reed yard, with a hut in the centre
for our use, but we preferred, as the night was fine, to sleep on
the open ground. They gave us a goat to kill, and food for the
men, at the same time bringing a supply of firewood and making
a grass hut. The reception these Batoka gave us was so simple
and kindly that they quite won my heart. I felt I had not
thought of them in vain, and, without going another step, would
willingly have settled amongst them ; but they are a conquered
people, and therefore I must see the king of the country ere I
can settle in it.
August 26th. — After Mr. Blockley had bought a little corn that
was-brought here, we set off for the town of Mogumba, the chief
of this part of the river. We found it partly deserted through
failure of crops, all the men being out hunting, and Mogumba at
Shesheke. His chief wife, however, entertained us to the best
of her ability. I heard from the Batoka that Mr. Westbeech was
still at Shesheke, having been detained there about a month
through the illness of the man in charge of his boat, and that it
was possible I might arrive before he left. I expected to get

52 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
men at Mbova to send to him, but there was not a man in the
place ; so we sat down, not knowing what to do. After waiting
awhile, five men appeared, each carrying a quantity of corn;
they had come from Shesheke to sell it, and intended to return
at once. We bought the corn, and I arranged to return with
them to Shesheke next day, to see Mr. Westbeech if possible.
Sunday, 27 th.- — Mpst ofthe boys who had offered their services
ran off early this morning, so I remained at Mbova until
evening, and went a short distance with two men who were
willing to go with me. I might as well have remained until
Monday, but was anxious to get out of Mbova as quickly as
possible, hoping to get a night's sleep. That town lies in the
middle of an immense marsh, and at night it swarms with
mosquitoes ; it is also a regular malaria swamp all the year
round. I slept at night by the side of a small river in the
middle of a thick wood.
28th. — Crossed the Ungwesi river, and after walking for some
distance turned down to the Zambesi, where I met a company
of hunters with boats on the river. I hired one of their boats
and two men, to take me and mine to Shesheke, and, crossing
the river, slept at their little reed-hut town. The lions are very
numerous here, and through the night they did make a noise.
SHESHEKE.
August 2,0th. — After some trouble I started this morning, and
got on well for a time. It is very pleasant sailing along this
immense river. After a few hours, however, the boatmen landed
me on the bank, and quietly set to work landing my stuff. I
could not believe Shesheke was so near, but they assured me it
was near to some trees close by, and that they landed me to
avoid a long bend in the river ; so I let them go, and found out
their deceit, to my sorrow, afterwards. The two boys I had with
me as carriers were from the same town as the boatmen, and
were privy to the plan. After a long six hours' walk, mostly
through a labyrinth of broken-down reeds, with mud and slush
underneath, I arrived at Shesheke, and was glad to find Mr.
Westbeech there. Welcoming me kindly, he said that he had
been detained for several weeks, much against his will, but was
now expecting to be off at once.

1882.] Among the Barotse. 53
GOOD RECEPTION BY THE HEADMEN.
Having been introduced to the headmen of the town, I
told them my errand, and they listened attentively. Their
answer was that I was so far welcome, and that I had perfect
liberty to. go on to the king, but that the king's headmen
were tired of teachers coming to the country and running away
again. Their spokesman referred to M. Coillard's visit, and said
he promised to return, but had not come. They heard last year
that he was coming, and they hear again he is coming now,
but they do not see him. They then spoke of the Jesuits, and
how they had deceived them. As to my coming amongst them,
they said they did not know what I meant to do, whether I would
just see the chief and run away again, or remain.
This tribe, or rather these tribes, are governed by the king and
his headmen, who have a voice in most affairs. They seem
determined not to be cheated any more. I tried to assure
them that my intentions were sincere in coming amongst them,
and that I was now willing, if I got permission, to remain
with them. That pleased them better; in fact, the whole tribe
have been waiting long for some teacher, and were compelled
to think about receiving the Jesuits, although they did not like
them. Boats are expected every day from the king to take
them up.
The headmen had a long talk over matters, and had Setobi
with them to question him all about me. They told me in
the afternoon that, as headmen of Shesheke, they had decided to
receive me as a teacher into their country, on the understanding
that I would not run away and leave them.
After a good deal of talking, it was arranged that Mr. West
beech should go on to the king and tell him of my desire,
and get him to send boats down to Shesheke ; and that I should
first return with a boat, which the headmen would place at
my disposal, to Panda-ma-tenka, and fetch the things I had
left, and a few supplies to last me ' some months among the
Barotse. The week I was at Shesheke I had several companies in my
little reed-yard listening ; and one evening I overheard one man —
a young headman, who had attended regularly — going over what
he had heard. "The good Shepherd; He gave His life for

g4 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept.
the sheep" (followed by exclamations); then, " Eo Mora oa
Modimo" ("He is the Son of God")— this he repeated— " Mora
oa Modimo" — "Son of God ! Son of God !" — and he passed on.
Not liking to disturb his thoughts I left him alone, thanking God
in the depths of my soul that these words had for the time got a
place in his mind and made him think. He is a bright, thoughtful
young man, twenty-four or twenty-five years of age.
Sunday, September yd, 1882. — A letter arrived to-day from the
Jesuits who had come down to the Leshuma ferry, asking for
boats to take them to Shesheke. The headmen sent word that
they must wait until a reply comes from the king in answer to a
message they sent by Mr. Westbeech. I have spent a pleasant
week here, and get on well among the people. Shesheke is a
town of slaves, three-fourths of the population being the absolute
property of the other fourth.
The people like to come and hear me reading out of the
Sechuana Testament, and ask all sorts of childish questions.
Their ignorance, to a man, is absolute, and their depravity
complete. Human sacrifices, burning of witches, cutting their
flesh, etc., are the outcome of a religion of dark superstition.
RETURN TO PANDA-MA-TENKA.
September $th, 1882. — Left Shesheke in a boat for Mbova.
Slept the first night on a reed island, the second on a mud bank,
as the lions were too troublesome for us to sleep on the
mainland. 8th. — My men tried to frighten me into dealing out to them
some extra rations. Coming up to a small reed-covered island,
they all landed, professing to be tired ; and as it is not safe to sit
in their canoes when they stop — the crocodiles having a trick of
coming alongside slily and whisking one into the water with their
tails — I got out with the men, spread my mat, lay down, and read
a book that had interested me. My men stole back to the boat
and suddenly pushed out to mid-stream and feigned to be
paddling off, saying that they would not return unless I promised
them more pay. I lay perfectly still, however, never even looking
at them or letting them know that I heard. The book, I
remember, was very interesting. I had got it from Mr. Westbeech,
and it contained the lives of Scottish Covenanters. After having

188a.] Among the Barotse. 55
pulled down stream for some miles, going quite out of my sight,
they returned in about an hour's time and entreated me to enter
the boat. I professed to be annoyed at their importunity, shut my
book, and got in ; and off we went, the men rowing as they had
not done since we started, in order to make up for lost time.
God has not opened up my way so far, to leave me now;
this I know. He does not so work. "The kingdom of
God is not meat and drink, but righteousness, peace, and joy
in the Holy Ghost" — not earthly comforts, but heavenly and
spiritual things. My greedy flesh shrinks from banishment for " a
little while" from kith and kin, but there are "better things"
remaining to me. Let my one desire in this life be to possess
to the full those " better things " at whatever cost to the " lesser."
"Ye shall burn no leaven, nor any honey, in any offering of the
Lord made by fire." (Lev. ii. n.) It is ours then to lay aside
the honey of this life, and let Him who filleth all things fill us
with Himself.
I used to like a quiet walk through the woods, and enjoyed the
solitude, but I cannot do so here ; the lions are too numerous,
and very dangerous. During this week I have heard of two
persons being killed by lions close by. The Lord, however, has
wonderfully preserved me from wild animals, though they have
been very near to me at times.
September 12th. — I reached Panda-ma-tenka again yesterday,
after a long, dry walk of eighty-five miles, mostly through heavy
sand, from the junction of the Chobe and Zambesi, which took
us two days and "a half, and not a drop of water did we find
for the last seventy miles. The last night and day I suffered a
good deal, but thank God for the strength given to take me
through. The heat just now is very great, and will be until the rains fall.
I fain hoped to get a week's rest here, but the carriers who came
with me from Shesheke refuse to stay an hour longer than to
morrow afternoon. They are in terror of their lives, lest the
Matabele should come and kill them ; so I have been working
night and day making up bundles of cloth, beads, food, etc., and
start off to-morrow post haste. To a casual observer, my hasten
ing so to get away would seem like impatience; but I cannot
get other carriers, and must go. Were I to delay too long, they

56 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept.
would simply take up their weapons and march off without even
giving me warning. The last six weeks of almost constant travel
ling on foot, through a rough and sandy country, has reduced me
to a bit of bone and muscle — a sort of walking machine. Yet
I enjoy the greatest natural blessing, perfect health. I am
writing this when I ought to be sleeping, but hope to snatch
time on the way down to the river to write more.
Quite a famine is raging; all over the country people are
dying of starvation. It has often been hard to get food, and
I have lived mostly on the flesh of game dried in the sun.
OVERTAKEN BY FEVER ON THE WAY.
September 14th. — Started again for Shesheke, feeling a little
unwell ; as we went on, matters did not improve, and my men
grew very troublesome. For most of the road, as I have said,
there is no water, and my carriers seized all the water we had and
demanded payment for it from me. Setobi was getting sick. At
last, on the second day, after having gone about forty miles
through the desert, I had to lie down, and very soon became
unconscious. I was by this time in a high fever. The men
went on and left me and Setobi, who was as helpless as myself.
My boy, only about thirteen years of age, hastened back to
Panda-ma-tenka, and told Mr. Blockley. All this time I lay
rolling about on the ground under a fearful sun, scarcely knowing
anything, only feeling excessively ill from fever and thirst. On
the morning of the third day I heard the distant shouts of a
waggon driver. Help and water had come, and they lifted
me into the waggon, and started again for Panda-ma-tenka.*
Panda-ma-tenka, September 25th. — I have had a sharp illness.
The Zambesi fever is peculiar to this part, and it acts very
quickly ; after the first attack it is usually very mild. It is well
that I have had it before going up the river.
The time spent out in the desert, lying under a hot sun, with
no fire at night, was trying, yet it was not without profit. What
* This is a wonderful example of the kindness and thoughtfulness these
people can exercise. Had it not been for the prompt action of that little
lad of thirteen in starting back to Panda-ma-tenka, through a country infested
with wild animals, in order to bring help to me I should, humanly speaking,
have perished in the desert.

1882.] Among the Barotse. 57
gave me perfect peace was the assurance that God was acting in
perfect wisdom.
Since arriving here I have gradually come round, though I am
still weak. My first attack of Zambesi fever is thus over.
Mr. Blockley has been very kind indeed; he could not
have been more so, cooking for me himself. He gave me a
vapour bath and wet-sheet packs, which brought me round. This
treatment is much more effective here than at home.
Of course, I am not yet sure of reaching the Barotse Valley ;
the delay caused by this illness may have altered matters. I
may be too late for the king's boats, or may find that the carriers
who went on with my goods have robbed me of half, in which
case I could hardly go on, as my supply is very limited. But
all will be for the best. God forbid that I should have a say
in the matter. One thing is clear to me in the meantime,
that I shall have difficulty in getting across to the Batoka on
the hills.
October 8th, 1882. — Since writing last I have had a relapse, as
my writing shows. I should like to write you much of all I think,
but it is very hard work.
I have not had an unhappy time whilst lying here. You may
think I was in a very miserable plight, lying out in the open plain,
with no water, and so sick ; but I was perhaps more content then
than I have been since. I have lately been thinking that most of
our unhappiness arises from doubting the wisdom of God. It
does seem a terrible thing to doubt His wisdom in guiding,
ordering, and arranging all things.
I am now preparing to start again from Panda-ma-tenka. as
there is no food to be got; and also, a few days later, I could
not get a waggon to go to Leshuma. All things say, "Go;" in
fact, I must go.
14/^. — I have lain here very weak for four weeks. This is
now the fifth week, and by Monday I expect to start again. It
will seem to you too hurried, but I am compelled to move. Here
Mr. Blockley will have to turn away nearly all his servants for
want of food. The strength that has come to my arm to write
has greatly encouraged me to trust that daily strength will be
given for the journey; for up to three days ago my arm was
helplessly weak. I shall go with a waggon close to the river,

58 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
and then a twelve miles' walk will bring me to the boats. After
that the journey will be mostly by water.
READINESS OF THE PEOPLE TO HEAR.
From what I have written, you will doubtless agree with me
" in believing that there is really an open door for the gospel here.
I could not, in fact, with any comfort, now leave to return home.
All the mass of people along the river represent many tribes,
formerly conquered by the Makololo, a Basuto tribe from the
south, whose language is almost identical with that of the
Bechuana. These conquered tribes, being all together, required
one language, and, of course, they all learnt the Sekololo.*
Twelve years ago or so the Barotse, one of the conquered tribes,
rose up and killed all the Makololo men (leaving only the women
alive), but they retained the language of the Makololo, so that
amongst these many tribes and peoples I can with comparative
ease talk a little of the things of God, seeing that the Sechuana,
which I have learned, is almost identical with their tongue.
When last up the river large companies listened attentively to
the reading of Scripture, and asked many questions. They
have heard of " teachers " living among other tribes, and have a
slight idea of one or two of the outward effects of the gospel,
but of the gospel itself, or of God, they are thoroughly ignorant.
They do speak of a god they call " Nambi," who lives among
the stars, and they acknowledge his power over life and death ;
but further than that I can say nothing. Otherwise, the depth
of their heathenism seems unfathomable; secret bloodshed, super
stition, and enchantments everywhere prevail. How we should
rejoice and praise the Lord that even the ears of those who have
for ages been in such a state should be opened to hear God's
Word ! I do greatly thank the Lord for giving me such a
privilege as to read and seek to make them understand it ; but
the trying part of the work will not, 1 am sure, be forgotten in
your prayers. Oh the patience that is needed, seeing how bitter
and deadly is the opposition of the medicine men and doctors,
* The manner of distinguishing the languages of these nations is different
from ours. We alter the last syllable— England, English ; but they change
the first syllable. Thus the language of the Bechuana is called Sechuana,
and that of the Makololo, Sekololo.

i882.] Among the Barotse. 59
who live by their "craft!" The power of those men is very
great, but "God is stronger than His foes." Surely I can but
say, "All my springs are in Thee;" for this work is too great
for me.
I hope to have an opportunity of sending out letters again, in
five or six months' time, when I shall be better able to speak of
the people, etc.
As to my own soul's prosperity in this great country, I still ask
for your prayers in a special way. I had thought that, being
alone and away from all controversies, and many other evil
influences, I should attain to a more spiritual and devoted state ;
but I have learnt that the one drag to a soul's communion with
God is a thing tied to it — this old dead self, which, in the absence
of Christian fellowship, is more inclined to increase in bulk in
my solitude than to diminish. Yet, thinking of all, I can but
magnify the grace and the wisdom of God.
It is now seven months since I got news of any kind from the
old country, and close on twelve months since I saw any periodical.
I am quite shut in here; and, like Noah, have but the one window.
The weakness resulting from the fever is lingering and depressing;
but I trust soon to get over it. Excuse my shaky writing.
SETTING OUT FOR THE BAROTSE CAPITAL.
Leshuma, October 18th, 1882. — I have started again for the
upper river, and am thankful to say, feeling better than I expected.
My appetite is good, and I sleep well. I hope to have another
opportunity of sending letters in five or six months, or it may
be a year. Do not, however, be anxious. If I reach the Barotse
king's I will try and send letters out by the American Mission at
Bihe", which may be a better route ; it is but a few weeks' journey
from Lealui — the king's town.
I crossed the seventy miles of desert country between Panda-
ma-tenka and this place, with the assistance of a bullock waggon
and oxen belonging to Mr. Westbeech. The young Dutchman
who drove could not take me further than Leshuma, twelve miles
from the Zambesi. My goods, however, had all gone on with
the Shesheke men some five weeks before, so I was able to start
for the river with the assistance of a few Bushmen, though in a
very weak condition. I was only able to walk for about one mile

60 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
at a time, and it took me nearly two days to get over about twelve
miles. On reaching the river I bargained with the old ferryman
to take my men and bundles across, leaving them to walk up to
Mbova, and come back and take me up the river to that town
in his boat. The man landed me on the north bank that he
might go to his hut to refresh himself with a smoke of tobacco.
I lay on the bank of the river for some hours, and as he never
returned, and was not likely to do so, I determined to start off
on foot after my men and blankets.
BENIGHTED AND HELPLESS.
In my weak state, and being quite alone, I wandered repeatedly
from the path. At last night came on. The path lay over a
sharp hill covered with large boulders, in the midst of which I
completely lost my way, wandered about from right to left, then
lay down between two boulders, where I found myself fairly
comfortable, as the stones were still radiating heat. I had not
lain long when I heard a footstep in the distance. On looking
up, and watching in the direction from which the sound came,
I saw the figure of a man, with a gun over his shoulder, walking
along slowly in the direction I had come from. I called, and
he at once replied and came over to me, when I found that he
was one of the Bushmen I had hired at Leshuma, and that he
was out in search of me. With his help I was able to reach
Mbova shortly before midnight. The natives there provided
me with a hut to sleep in, and brought food ; but it was fully ten
days ere I recovered the use of my limbs, in any measure, I may
say. NATIVE HUTS.
Their native huts are cool and comfortable. They consist of
a large capacious roof of reeds and grass placed over two circular
walls of wattle and mud, thus making an inner and outer com
partment. These houses usually stand in the centre of a spacious
yard fenced round with reeds, and they are kept fresh and clean
by being smeared over occasionally with a mixture of cow-dung
and sand. This is the sort of house I hope to live in when
staying with the chief. The yard affords a secluded and comfort
able place for sitting and conversing with the people during the
day.

1882.] Among the Barotse. 6 1
THOUGHTS OF FUTURE WORKi
After wandering about for twelve months I feel glad at the
thought of a little steady work, though it be in but a small way,
and trying to one's zeal and patience. But, after all, can one line
of service be more blessed than another ? If we truly serve our
Master we shall be rewarded according to our fidelity, not accord
ing to our activity or success : " Well done, good and faithful
servant ! "
At present these people are all willingness to hear ; but when
Christ and the cross is preached in all faithfulness, and they
learn how that cuts at all old things, the feeling of many
towards the gospel will be very different. I would not begin
by pulling down their old rotten structure ; that would be sorry
work. Even now the medicine men will be doing what they can
to get up opposition, but the experience of others has proved
that the power of these men to oppose goes only a certain
length; and so is it with all opposing powers. Job's family,
house, and cattle were to be touched, but not his skin; then
his skin, but not his life. All the things we are called upon to
suffer, and all the oppositions we meet with are gauged and
measured, and no reckoning is made for our "unaided strength."
Thus the arm of God encircles us.
BOATS SENT BY THE KING.
Shesheke, 29th October. — Just a hurried letter, which I send on
after my other written from Panda-ma-tenka, hoping that this
will be taken out at the same time. I have got along pretty well
thus far. I found all the thirteen loads that had been taken on
before me in good keeping and untouched at Shesheke. Two
boats from the king came down only two days after my arrival
at this place, so that no time was lost through my illness and
stay at Panda-ma-tenka.
With the boats are two headmen and twelve boatmen, and we
start for Lealui to-morrow or the day following.
I have been kindly received by all the headmen here; no
starvation now ; they surround me with the fat of the land. I am
glad I have so short a time to" wait here. The journey up the
river will take twenty days at least, however quickly we may

62 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
travel ; but I have king's men, and when he sends for any one,
he has men picked from several towns or kraals.
I am sure you cannot but recognise with me the hand of God
in ordering all things. He knew how much I needed the mental
rest and time for quiet thought that I got at Panda-ma-tenka,
which I could not have got here ; and now, to my surprise, when
I expected that the king's boats would have come and gone back,
I have arrived just at the right moment. The boatmen, of
course, knew nothing of my delay through sickness.
Mr. Westbeech has also kindly arranged to remain longer with
the king than he intended. He is anxious to be with him when
I reach Lealui, to tell him how to treat me. He has known the
king from his boyhood, and has much influence with him.
The rapids are difficult to shoot at this time, but I shall be
safe enough, having scarcely anything on when travelling in the
boat. I shall be the first Scotchman, and the second British subject,
who has gone beyond Shesheke since Livingstone's visit; the
other is Mr. Westbeech.
This is a copy of the letter I received at Shesheke from Mr.
Westbeech : " Lealui, sth October, 1882.
"Dear Sir, — I have got permission from the chief for you to
come on here, and this without much trouble. He sends you two
boats, and both he and I shall anxiously await your arrival. He
sends you two responsible people with them— the older one is named
Monie-Ki-Umbwa, and the other Mato Kwan.
" You will have purchased food for the road by the time they arrive.
If you have not, do so at once.
"Try and gain a good name amongst your boatmen, as they come
from different kraals, and, of course, many questions will be asked
them. If you shoot anything along the road, take as much as you
will require for yourself, and from what part you like best, and give
all the remainder to your headman, Monie-Ki-Umbwa, for division
amongst your crews.
"The king must have brought about 20,000 head of cattle taken
in war, to the Barotse Valley, exclusive of what have died along
the road from poverty and tsetse".
Remember me to Ra-tau, and wishing you health and success,
" I am, yours faithfully,
"George Westbeech."

•882.] Among the Barotse. 63
INCIDENTS IN ASCENDING THE ZAMBESI.
With fair prospects of a quick journey up the Zambesi, and
a friendly reception from the chief Liwanika, I started from
Shesheke. During the first few days the journey was very
pleasant. Though still very weak, I enjoyed the varied scenes
that pass before one on an African river.
On one occasion, towards evening, going round a sharp bend
in the river close to the bank, we came upon two lions that were
sporting on a beautiful sandy beach. The male at once shook
his shaggy head, lay down with his paws out as a cat does when
watching a mouse, and kept his eye upon us. So close was my
boat to the beast that I could distinctly see him closing one eye
and opening the other alternately as he lay surveying us. The
lioness walked up and down in a restless manner in front of
a clump of reeds. The men assured me that she had cubs
hidden there. At another point the boat was passing along
the side of a steep bank, covered with a network of roots, in
the midst of which the paddler in front of me spied a puff-adder
coiled up. He immediately lifted his spear from between his
toes and threw it at the snake, which instantly uncoiled itself and
struck at its assailant, grazing my hat with its fangs. The spear,
however, had done its work, pinning the lower part of its body to
the ground, and in a short time my men killed it.
Shortly after leaving Shesheke I found the country entirely
deserted of people. Occasionally we came upon a few fishermen
throwing their nets, or some wandering Basubia digging for lotus
roots among the lagoons and backwaters ; but when they saw us
they rushed off and hid themselves in the bush. My men,
however, assured me that there were many villages on the hills on
each side of the river; but the poor people seem to dread this
great waterway, which no doubt has been used by conquering
tribes as a highway for their evil pursuits.
Our difficulties began when we entered the cataract region.
Although the river was low at this time, the current was so strong
at many of the rapids that the boats had to be unloaded and the
goods carried overland, that the boats might be dragged up the
river empty. At Nyambe there is a decided fall in the river, and
we had to take both boats and goods overland.

64 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
INDEBTED TO CROCODILES FOR FOOD.
After leaving Nyambe we were dependent entirely for food on
what we might kill in the bush. We were unfortunate in this,
however, and were obliged to have recourse to rather mean ways
of getting our supper. Crocodiles abound in this great river,
and they are very artful. When the larger game come down to
drink they creep up, and seizing them by the nose, drag them
under the water. By this means the crocodiles always have their
larders well supplied. It is their custom to hide the food thus
obtained under the river's bank until it becomes rather putrid,
and to bring it to the surface for airing before eating. I used to
lie on the bank of the river and watch these animals come up
with perhaps a quarter of an antelope, and by firing at their
heads I compelled them to drop their supper, which my men
picked up from their boats, but it afforded us anything but a
dainty feast.
On one occasion we made for the deserted camp of some
elephant hunters, hoping to pick up their scraps. My men got a
few bones to boil, and I tried to pound and boil for a long time
a piece of elephant's skin ; but, after all, it was not possible to
eat it.
As we approached the Gonye Falls the men had to carry the
goods overland for three miles, and afterwards come back for the
boats, so that we were delayed some days. I tried very hard to
walk across the belt of sand, but failed completely, and my men
had to rig up a hammock, and carry me after the boats and goods
had been got over. We were entertained at the town of Silomba,
a small river chief, who provided us with a little meal and maize-
corn. BOAT SINKS.
From this point the banks of the river are less steep, and the
country around is more flat. A terrific hurricane from the south
west burst upon us one afternoon, lashing the river into violent
waves, and compelling my boatmen to flee for shelter. No
sooner had we touched the bank than my canoe, which had been
gradually filling, sank. Nothing, however, floated away, as the
men had taken the precaution to bind my bundles to the canoe
with cords. So long as the storm lasted we could do nothing but

l882-l Among the Barotse. 65
seek to shelter ourselves under a few bushes. Later on, the men
went down to the sunken canoe, and as the water was not deep,
they succeeded in removing my goods without much difficulty.
^ Their plan of getting the water out of the canoe, was simple but
i ingenious. They seized the canoe by the bow, jerked it forward,
, and thus set the water within it in motion ; then they pushed the
canoe back, and the water flowed out. By repeating this process
the canoe was emptied of perhaps a ton of water in a few minutes.
Heavy rains now set in. It was some days before I could get
my blankets dried after their soaking in the river ; and thankful
I was to reach the town of Nalolo, who is a sister of the chief
Liwanika. She did her best to make us comfortable, and supplied
me with food. My men built a long, low shed with reeds and
grass, and kindled large fires, and with sunshine for the next few
days I got my calico, clothes, and other things dried. The few
books I had were more or less destroyed. When at last we had
got things fairly comfortable again, and were hoping to start
next day, heavy dark clouds arose from the south, which in
creased so quickly that in a short time the whole southern sky
was inky-black. My men ran to the river, and drew the boats to
shelter on the bank, cut a little extra grass and laid it on our
shed, and as it faced the north we thought it might afford
us sufficient shelter. The hurricane broke mercilessly over our
little camp, and with such force as to carry all our shed and
carefully-made little huts into the river, leaving me and my
newly-spread bed and a few precious bundles exposed to the
torrents of rain that poured down for the first part of the night,
and extinguished all our fires, leaving us in a more desolate
and forlorn condition than before. A little sunshine, however,
next day enabled me to dry things somewhat, and off we
started, making our way through a flat, grassy country. My
boats were repeatedly chased by hippopotami. Along the
banks of the river we saw large herds of cattle grazing. The
j population of the Barotse valley, though considerable, is very
much scattered; but the people are all, more or less, breeders
of cattle. ARRIVAL AT THE CAPITAL.
Lealui, December igth, 1882. — Reached the town of Liwanika.
The king sent a horse to meet me, and a company of young men
F

66 Seven Years in Central Africa. [March,
to carry my bundles. Mr. Westbeech, who had remained till
my arrival, was soon in my hut, and in a few hours the king
himself came to see me. He seemed a bright, happy sort of
man, always smiling. The hut they put me into I found had
been built specially for the occasion, but unfortunately it was
very damp, and firewood being difficult to procure in this marshy
country, my outlook was rather a gloomy one. Often nothing
seemed dry but my fevered tongue. Still little by little the fever
left me; it was, however, succeeded by much pain and pros
tration. On the. way to this place I had seen a little of the
wickedness and superstition of these people; but on the third
morning after my arrival at Lealui I saw more than I desired.
THE BOILING-POT ORDEAL.
A small company gathered in front of my hut, and began an
animated discussion, which grew hotter and hotter, and shortly a
large fire was kindled, and a pot of water set on it. I was told
that this was a trial for witchcraft, and that the two persons charged
had to wash their hands in the water, and if, after twenty-four
hours, the skin came off, the victims were to be burned alive.
First one, then the other, dipped his hands in the fiercely-boiling
water, lifting some up and pouring it over the wrist. Twenty-
four hours told its tale, and I saw the poor fellows marched off
to be burned before a howling, cursing crowd. Such scenes, I
afterwards found, were almost of daily occurrence.
BREAK IN THE DIARY  A TRYING TIME.
March i$th, 1883. — Sorry I have not been able to make daily
notes. It is only within the last few weeks that I have felt my
strength returning in any measure. The first hut the king gave
me is now in ruins from the flood. He then gave me another
in the centre of the town, but it was dry for one day only. One
night of frightfully heavy rains flooded hut and yard, and sadly
wetted my small stock of goods. The rain continued for days.
The king could give me no dry hut, so I just had to " lie to,"
day after day, in that filthy round hut, scarcely wide enough for
me at full length, with my goods rotting by my side, and a perfect
swarm of rats devouring everything, and running over me at
night. There for ten long days I sat on my stool in semi-darkness

1883.] Among the Barotse. 67
by day, or lay by night, in perfect inactivity. At last the rains
ceased a bit, and I went out to seek a hut. I got one from
a headman, and at once entered it. It was dry aud comfortable ;
so I remained there ten days. The damp house, and about a
month's feeding on native porridge (without milk), morning, noon,
and night, brought on an attack of dysentery ; yet I cannot but
recognise the hand of the Lord in preserving my hfe in such
trying circumstances.
Towards the end of February, when the Zambesi overflows its
banks for miles on either side, the king and almost all the people
of the place removed to their summer town, Amafura. Liwanika
invited me into his large boat (made of several canoes), and
perhaps two thousand canoes accompanied us. At Amafura,
I had much discomfort and losses by robbing. The king was
taken ill, and then a lot of goods arrived from Mr. Westbeech.
He asked me to receive them, and my hut was packed for days.
I had nine men beside my own two to provide for and look
after for about twenty days ; I also had a serious relapse of fever.
The place was surrounded with marsh.
To give a better idea of the Zambesi and its periodical overflow
I here insert some extracts from Livingstone's narrative, written
in 1853, when he first reached the Zambesi. The whole district
was then under the rule of Sekeletu, chief of the Makololo.
Livingstone's description of the barotse valley.
"The river is indeed a magnificent one, often more than
a mile broad, and adorned with many islands of from three to
five miles in length. Both islands and banks are covered with
forest, and most of the trees on the brink of the water send down
roots from their branches like the banian or Ficus Indica. The
islands at a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan
vegetation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The
country adjacent to the river is rocky and undulating, abounding
in elephants and all the other large game, except leches and
nakongs. The soil is of a reddish colour and very fertile, as is
attested by the great quantity of grain raised annually by the
Banyeti* A great many villages of this poor and very industrious
* The Banyeti inhabit the south-eastern portion of the Barotse Valley, and
are found around the Gonye Falls.

68 Seven Years in Central Africa. [March,
people are situated on both banks of the river. They are
expert hunters of the hippopotami and other animals, and
proficient in the manufacture of articles of wood and iron.
" From the bend of the river up to the north, called Katima-
molelo, the bed is rocky, and the stream runs fast, forming a
succession of rapids and cataracts, which prevent continuous
navigation when the water is low. The rapids are not visible
when the river is full; but the cataracts of Nyambe, Bombwe,
and Kale must always be dangerous. The fall at each of these
is between four and six feet. But that at Gonye presents a
much more serious obstacle, being about thirty feet.
"When we came to about 16° 16' S. latitude the high, wooded
banks left the river, and no more tsetse appeared. Viewed from
the flat, reedy basin in which the river then flowed, the banks
seemed prolonged into ridges of the same wooded character, two
or three hundred feet high, and stretched away to the N.N.E. and
N.N.W. until they were twenty or thirty miles apart. The
intervening space, nearly one hundred miles in length, with the
Zambesi winding gently near the middle, is the true Barotse
Valley. It bears a close resemblance to the valley of the Nile,
and is inundated annually, not by rains, but by the Zambesi.
The villages of the Barotse are built on mounds, and during the
inundation the whole valley assumes the appearance of a large
lake, with the villages on the mounds like islands, just as occurs
in Egypt with the villages of the Egyptians.
" The great valley is not put to a tithe of the use it might be.
It is covered with coarse, succulent grasses, which afford ample
pasturage for large herds of cattle. These thrive wonderfully,
and give milk copiously to their owners. When the valley is
flooded the cattle are compelled to leave it and go to the higher
lands, where they fall off in condition. Their return is a time of
joy. There are no large towns, the mounds on which the towns
and villages are built being all small, and the people require to
live apart on account of their cattle.
" When the river is compressed among the high, rocky banks
near Gonye, it rises sixty feet.
"I imagined that the slight elevation [Katongo] might be
healthy, but was informed that no part of this region is exempt
from fever. When the waters begin to retire from this valley

i883.]

Among the Barotse.

69

such masses of decayed vegetation and mud are exposed to
the torrid sun that even the natives suffer severely from attacks of
fever."

A Kind African Herdsman.

The African tribes who possess cattle are devoted to them, and in their
defence become brave and warlike. Snaring the vicissitudes of life together in
times of war and peace, a strong attachment springs up between herdsmen and
cattle. I have seen a young man lament over a favourite ox that had been
slaughtered for food, when he recognized the familiar markings of its skin.

•jo Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
an effort at school-keeping.
April 8th, 1883. — My sickness is now over, and I am faring
well, though food is very dear and scarce. I have had a school
here for some little time. The boys learn pretty well, but it
requires patience and perseverance to look after them. Hunting
a young truant from house to house under a hot sun is not
pleasant. The parents show little interest; in fact, they have
little influence over their children. The leather thong rules
the family above a certain age. A short time after I began
teaching, the king cross-questioned me as to what I had come
to teach. I spoke to him of sin, death, and judgment, and
of God's love in the gift of His Son, and he listened attentively.
"This," I said, "was my first and chief message, besides
which I wanted to teach the children to read and write;
also all about the world they live in, and other things that the
white men know, which are good for all people, to know." The
king then said, "Yes, yes, that is good, to read, write, and.
to know numbers. But don't, don't teach them the word of
God ; it 's not nice. No, no, you must not teach that . in
this country." I kept silent till his excitement was over, and
then said that we would talk again when he had thought more.
The school went on for two months longer, when it had to
be stopped because of an affection of my eyes.
again brought low.
For nearly six weeks I suffered severely from acute rheumatic
iritis — a common sequel to malarial fever. During that time
I had to bury myself in my hut ; but those grass-covered hovels
are anything but dark, and, in spite of all the bandages and
skins with which I covered my head as I lay on the ground, rays
of light would come through, intensifying the pain in my eyes.
On May 10th we returned again to Lealui.
A RULING PASSION.
The Barotse are a very strange nation. Their country is
bounded, as you know, on the south by the Zambesi and Chobe
rivers, and this line of demarcation is strictly guarded against
all comers. No white man is allowed on any condition to hunt

'883.] Among the Barotse. 71
or travel across that border. The headmen of the country
expressed themselves pleased that I had come alone; and
several times when I spoke to the king about bringing a brother
back with me the next time I went south, he always objected,
and said that neither he nor his people wanted white men in
their country. At last, however, he said, of his own accord,
"Bring your brother with you when you return, that I may
see him." True, he sent word to M. Coillard, who went up
as far as Shesheke about five years ago, that he might return and
live in the country; and M. Coillard went to Europe with a
view of organizing a party to return with him. But the greater
the number of his party, the longer time will the chiefs require to
consider the question of their advance.*
Covetousness is the ruling passion of these natives, and it
destroys all other natural feelings. Here a man will kill another
for his coat. Seeing a defenceless party with, as they think, more
of this world's goods than their share, they will try every means
to distress, rob, or even kill them, for the sake of their goods.
This was one cause of the failure of the L. M. S. Mission, sent
to the Zambesi fifteen or twenty years ago at the advice of
Livingstone. The things they took with them were many and
good, and very tempting in the eyes of the natives ; so they tried
every means to dispose of the missionaries, and succeeded too
well. This is one great cause of the present failure of the
Jesuits. One " father '' was undoubtedly poisoned for the sake of
a waggon-load of goods of which he was in charge, and the party
was openly robbed at different places, to the amount of many
hundred pounds. Now, as the people think they have obtained
all they are likely to get, they are bent on getting the priests out
of the country as soon as possible.
I proved this power of avarice over other feelings to a small
extent myself. When I first went to the king's town, I had, of
course, a few things on hand for buying food, etc. So long as I
had even a little, I was very much troubled by people coming to
me, simply to beg for presents — headmen and their wives ; even
* M. Coillard and party arrived at the Zambesi in 1884, after my de
parture. They were detained at Leshuma and Shesheke for nigh eighteen
months, on account of the revolution that broke out on the Upper Zambesi
that year ; but, after a time of unheard-of trial and suffering, M. Coillard
has established himself with his heroic wife at Lealui.

72 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
the king and his wives were not above begging and troubling me
in the meanest way for a small present. At last my things were
gone, and I had to live as my own boys lived — on porridge and
com; and I could only buy a meal at a time, tearing up my
blankets and sheets, selling them for food, and also my spare
clothes, etc. Then the begging and pestering ceased ; and those
who came to my hut did not come to beg and peer into every
corner to see if I had anything nice that they could ask of me.
Before, when I used to try to get their attention in conversation,
every now and then I would be ingeniously interrupted by the
one miserable request ; but when they found me as poor as them
selves, if not much poorer, they came to talk, and perhaps would
rather bring me a small present than ask for one, and I could
get their ears and attention without distraction. This world's
goods may certainly be helpful in furthering the gospel, and may
be sanctified and accepted by God for that work ; but they also
can be made a terrible hindrance. My plan now is to live as
much from hand to mouth as possible, taking up the river only
as much goods as will keep me for four of five months, sending
down once or twice in the course of a year to Mr. Westbeech's
station for fresh supplies, and living on native food, which I hope
daily to become more accustomed to.
POVERTY AN ADVANTAGE.
It was well for the lame man sitting at the door of the temple
that Peter had neither silver nor gold; so surely it is well for
these Africans, that he who seeks to bring to them the one price
less treasure should not be burdened with what, in comparison,
is trash and tinsel, serving but to blind their eyes to better and
heavenly things. Many in South Africa urge the necessity for
•the missionary's going to the " raw " African tribes in the guise
of a great man, with a large retinue of servants and abundance
of goods. Then, I have been told, he gets a position in the
tribe, and his voice is listened to. But surely this is a fatal
mistake, and far from the Divine pattern. In such a case the
heathen may easily be brought to believe in the man and his
goods, and in the hope of improving his social position may
make a profession of Christianity without having seen or known
anything of the meek and lowly Jesus.

1883.] Among the Barotse. 73
NATIVE BELIEFS.
The African is loth to obey, but fond of iipitating. The sum
of their own native belief is, that according to the position a
man has in this life, so will his place be in the next. Goodness
or badness, righteousness or sin, are not in their creeds. If a
man dies a slave, he will have a position akin to that when he is
dead ; if one dies a chief, he remains a chief, and so on. Thus
the more a missionary seeks to attain and keep up a position of
power and greatness, the more does he confirm those who follow
him in retaining their old heathen delusion.
When I tried to explain to King Liwanika of the Barotse that
3. man's position in this world had nothing whatever to do with
his place in the next; that God dealt with the hearts of men,
and not with their skins ; that a poor " matlanka " (lowest slave)
might be seated in the palace of God, and a king or chief shut
out, he got very excited, forbade me ever to say such a thing
again, or ever to teach such things to his people. I told him not
to be angry with me : these were not my words, but God's. He
didn't care ; I might say so, but he and his fathers knew enough
of God, and of dying, and all that. "Besides," said he, "we
are not all going to die just now; why then speak about it?"
It was some time before he again came round to talk quietly
of the things which, though he little knows it, concern him so
much. The native's pride of position is consummate, and for a chief
or free man to come down to the level of a poor " matlanka "
sinner is humanly impossible. " Unto the poor the gospel is
preached," and most gladly would I give all my time among the
many poor slaves of this country ; but meanwhile I am not
allowed. "Those are not people," they say; "they are our
dogs.'' So it is only by stealth that I get amongst them.
I have great hope that blessing awaits the declaring of the
gospel up this river ; but one thing I desire is, that what may be
done may be very real and entirely of God. Let us go in for
real out-and-out conversions to God, as among the Thessalonians
of old, who received the Word "in much affliction," so that
God's name may be honoured in this country as it was in
Macedonia.

74 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
ILLNESS OF THE KING.
My own desire is that I may please God by making His
gospel known in all faithfulness and sincerity, so that His name
may be glorified by the gathering out from heathendom those
whom He may please to make the subjects of His sovereign
mercy. I rejoice to think that for the people we have a full
and complete salvation to proclaim to every one, but Godward
we can but cast poor, sinful man upon His sovereign grace and
mercy. There has been little to try me here in the work, but
much, much to encourage. I am thankful to say that I have
received much of the confidence of the people ; they trust me
now as they did not at first. During my stay at the king's town
my time was well occupied. Besides having a small day-school,
and spending time with the people in conversation on the things
of God, I was much occupied with doctoring, gun-mending,
teaching them how to sew, make shirts, etc. In the doctoring
line I was several times very successful, even in important cases
which had been given up by the native magicians or doctors. The
king Liwanika himself had been long ill, though he had been
working away with all his doctors; he recovered slightly, only
to relapse again. One of his headmen, who has the honorary
title of "The king's mat," asked me to go and see his majesty.
I said I did not think I could do much for him, but if I could
not, God could. I told him to go back to the king, and that I
would follow, which I did, asking earnestly for the Lord's
blessing upon the remedy. The next morning the king was
able to attend a large council meeting, and to all appearance
looked quite well. Several of the headmen came to congratulate
me on my cure ; but when I told them it was God and not
man that had restored the king's health, they gravely 'shook
their heads. "lequalo."
" Nambi," the one great spirit who made all and rules over all,
they believe in, but they look on him as an austere person, who
only heaps sorrow, death, and punishment upon them. All good
that comes to them they trace to the power and intercession of
the spirit of some departed chief or forefather. The idea they
seem to have is that those departed spirits whom they worship

1883.] Among the Barotse. 75
have a sympathy which "Nambi" has not— a sympathy with
them in all the joys and sorrows connected with their journeyings,
crops, hunts, cattle, wives, etc., because they, while in the body,
experienced the same. Alas ! they little know at what a cost
our God has provided for us, and for them too, a Saviour and
High Priest, who feels for us as no man can feel, who suffered
and sorrowed as no man ever did, and who yet has verily a
fellow-feeling with us. . The religion of these upper-river people
is widely different from that of the other tribes. It has been
known to some that they believed in one supreme God, but no
more was known about them. There are many other interesting
ceremonies of theirs connected with the offering of oxen, corn,
beads, and' cloth, concerning which I hope to get more infor
mation. They have their diviners, seers, magicians, and doctors,
who work with a mass of beads, human bones, speaking-horns,
claws of wild animals, and a whole host of things, all of which
together they call "Lequalo," and to read them so as to pro
phesy about them is "Hoqualo." They give this name to the
word of God and all other books of the white man. The only
difference, they think, between our " Lequalo " and theirs is that
ours is a confused mass of little black marks on paper, and
theirs is surely much more sensible, as it consists of substantial
things ! HUMAN VICTIMS.
Nothing of importance can be sanctified without a human
sacrifice, in most cases a child. First the fingers and toes are
cut off, and the blood is sprinkled on the boat, drum, house, or
whatever may be the object in view. The victim is then killed,
ripped up, and thrown into the river. The burning of men for
witchcraft is carried on to a fearful extent ; not a day passes but
some one is tried and burnt. The details of scenes that I have
been forced to witness in this line are too horrible to put on
paper ; many a guiltless victim is marched off to the horrid pile.
A few hundred yards from my hut there lies a perfect Golgotha
of skulls and human bones, fearful to look upon. Yet one gets
somehow used to it and to all their murdering ways.
The trial for witchcraft is short and decisive. If one man
suspects another of having bewitched him — in fact, if he has
a grudge against him— he brings him before the council, and the

y6 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
ordeal of the boiling pot, to which I have already referred, is
resorted to. My proposal is, that if they consider jt a fair
trial of whiteness or blackness of heart, as they, call it, then let
both the accuser and the accused put their hands into the boiling
water. The king is strongly in favour of this proposal, and would
try any means to stop this fearful system of murder, which is
thinning out many of his best men, but the nation is so strongly
in favour of the practice that he can do nothing. An old friend
of mine, called Wizini, who took quite a fatherly care and
interest in me for some peculiar reason of his own, was charged
with witchcraft. He pleaded earnestly to be spared the terrible
trial, and was reprieved because of his years, but banished from
his people and country for life, for no other reason than that
a neighbour had an ill feeling against him. Had he been first
to the king with his complaint, he might have got his neighbour
burned or banished instead of himself. I much missed this
old man. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
The manners and customs of the negro " pure and simple " of
the interior remind one of many things mentioned in Scripture.
The Barotse have such names as "Child of Sorrow," "Child
of Joy," " Born by the River," and others, suggested by events
occurring at birth. When a man of property dies, leaving no
children, his nearest kinsman takes his brother's wives; and
children born of them inherit the dead man's property. (See
Deut. xxv. 5, 6.) This custom, however, is dying out In
2 Kings iii. n it is said of Elisha that it was he who poured
water on the hands of Elijah. On the return of a man to his
town' or house a servant regularly waits with a vessel to pour
water on his hands. The average negro is the reverse of cleanly,
but there are many laws and customs among them as to cleansing.
The better-class negro washes his hands regularly before and
after meals, but this is because he eats with his fingers. He
may use a spoon with thin porridge or thick milk, but only to
ladle the food into the palm of his hand, from which he drops it
into his mouth. Houses defiled by dead bodies must be cleansed,
and a woman who needs cleansing must live so many days
outside the town ; after which she is washed with water, anointed
with oil and perfume, the inner fat of an ox is hung round her

l883-l Among the Barotse. ' yy
neck by her husband, and then she returns home. Circumcision
is very generally practised by different tribes, and in different
ways. When going to pray, the Barotse make offerings to the spirits
of their forefathers under a tree, ' bush, or grove planted for
the purpose, and they take a larger or smaller offering, according
, to the measure of their request. If the offering be beer, they
pour it upon the ground; if cloth, it is tied to a horn stuck
in the ground ; if an ox be slaughtered, the blood is poured over
this horn, which is, in fact, their altar.
The native manner of speech is very quaint, and the mere
expectation of good things causes such delight that men will
dance and shout all night with empty stomachs in prospect of a
feast on the morrow. Regard for decency in conversation is
utterly unknown. There is a city of refuge among the Barotse,
and any one incurring the king's wrath, or committing a crime,
may find safety by fleeing to this town. The man in charge of it
is expected to plead for him before the chief, and he can then
return to his house in peace.
The African native, as found in his own home, is, like ourselves,
a man with all the instincts of a man, and this is shown by the
conduct of the lowest slaves. A poor slave whom I saw kicked
out of a hut in which he had sought shelter, folded his arms and
calmly said, " Yes, master, I know you think me to be a dog ;
but, sir, I am not a dog, I am a man." There was, for the
moment, a dignity and impressiveness about the poor naked
fellow, which subdued the man who was abusing him, and he
was told to return to the hut. CRUELTY.
Many good laws as to constancy and fidelity are to be found
among these people ; but their innate cruelty is, I think, without
comparison, and makes war a terrible thing with them. On
returning from raiding the warrior exults in telling the horrible
cruelties he has committed. A man will woo a woman with
accounts of the devilry he has been guilty of, for the women
delight in it, and the remembrance of things I have seen done
to captives makes the blood run cold. Among the Mashukulumbe
the women and children turn out to applaud their brave warriors,

78 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
who, I am told, string up by the neck to tall trees the little
children they have taken captive, a spectacle. which gives enter
tainment to the whole countryside. Their punishments are very
cruel. Burning alive is, among the Barotse, a common occurrence;
also tying the victim hand and foot and laying him near a nest
of large black ants, which in a few days pick his bones clean.*
TRUST IN KINGS.
There is an old but waning belief that a chief is a demigod,
and in heavy thunderstorms the Barotse flock to the chief's yard
for protection from the lightning. I have been greatly distressed
at seeing them fall on their knees before the chief, entreating him
to open the water-pots of heaven and send rain upon their gardens.
But last year the chief acknowledged to me that he knew he was
unable to do so ; yet he keeps up the delusion for the sake of power.
These ancient beliefs of the negro in the power of chiefs' medicines
and enchantments have, as might be supposed, very slender props
to rest on, and they are kept up merely to fill a want in the
mind; much as a drowning man will clutch at a straw in his need
of something to bear him up. The king's servants declare
themselves to be invincible, because they are the servants of god
(meaning the king) ; but when some discontented Barotse went to
kill Sepopo, the late chief, none fled faster than die king's body
guard. Sepopo, like the present king, would boast that, he
possessed medicines and enchantments which made his body
impervious to spear or bullet; but when he heard of the insurgents,
Sepopo fled in haste, and a bullet through the chest killed him.
THE POWER OF CONSCIENCE.
Man is a very fragile being, and he is fully conscious that he
requires supernatural or divine aid. Apart from the distinct reve
lation given by God in the first chapter of Romans, there is much
to prove that the heathen African is a man to whom the living
* When manners and customs are referred to, the particular district must
be borne in mind. Africa is an immense continent, and there is as much
variety in the customs of the different tribes as in their languages. Certain
tribes take delight in cruelty and bloodshed ; others have a religious fear of
shedding human blood, and treat aged people with every kindness, to secure
their goodwill after death. By other tribes the aged would be cast out as
mere food for wild animals.

1883.] Among the Barotse. 79
God has aforetime revealed Himself. But he has sought after
things of his own imagination and things of darkness to satisfy
those convictions and fears which lurk in his breast, and which
have not been planted there by the evil one, but by God. Re
fusing to acknowledge God (Romans i. 28, margin), they have
become haters of God. (v. 30.) The preaching of the Gospel
to them, however, is not a mere beating of the air; there is a
peg in the wall upon which something can be hung, and remain.
Often a few young men have received the message with laughter
and ridicule, but I have afterwards heard them discuss my words
amongst themselves very gravely. I heard one man say to a
neighbour, " Monare's words pierce the heart." Another remarked
that the story of Christ's death was very beautiful, but that he
knew it was not meant for him ; he was a makalaka (slave), and
such a sacrifice was only for white men and princes.
Their memories are so acute, that many days after being spoken
to, they will return in order to discuss some question which has
been weighing on their minds. I judge from their actions that
a few amongst the Barotse have consciously received something
of the truth. Malonda, who was a very kind friend to me,
repeatedly professed his belief in the things about which we had
long talks when travelling together from Shesheke; but he is
secretly afraid of the king; and the putting away of his extra
wives would, in his eyes, end his career among the Barotse.
Mala, of Secumba, one of the nobles of the land, when he came
to the king's town used to dine and sup with me, and we would
read and talk over the Scriptures for hours. Mamwia* has suffered
much from her husband Gumbela, the king's prime minister, for
laving to come and hear the Scriptures read, and she professes
to know the Lord. Our Lord knows all. He who will not
quench the smoking flax, nor break the bruised reed, can nourish
the little spark into a flame.
VISIT OF JESUIT MISSIONARIES.
A week or so after my return to Lealui two Jesuits came to
see the king. Four had left Panda-ma-tenka, but one had to
return because of sickness. One poor fellow was drowned on
the way up, through the upsetting of the boat in the rapids. The
king and headmen had a large meeting, and told these priests

80 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
they could not stay. They were friendly with me, and I bought
a few small things from them.
The smallness of their present to the chief in proportion
to the amount of goods they had brought for their own con
sumption was no doubt the cause of the ill favour shown by
Liwanika to them. He went to visit them one afternoon,
expecting to get more from them, but with no better success,
and he came along to my little hut in a very bad humour.
Sitting down, he said, "They are not the men for my country;
they have no sense." Without waiting for a reply from me,
he called one of his men, and sent him to the hut of the
Jesuits to ask for a needle and thread. The man returned with
but one needle and a single thread, which Liwanika held up
in triumph before me, saying, " Didn't I tell you these people
had no sense ? If they had, they would have given me a packet
of needles and a bundle of thread."
"IN NECESSITIES."
Having recovered somewhat, I proposed to return to Panda-
ma-tenka, hoping to hear of someone coming to join me in
the work. For some time before I left, Liwanika was much more
friendly towards me, and I had many talks with him. He did
not get so excited as before, and would occasionally express his
confidence in me, saying that he believed I had come to teach
them good things, assuring me also of my having perfect liberty
in his country to teach the word of God to old and young.
My supplies were now completely run out, and on this account
also I was compelled to make a trip down the river. As yet,
with careful planning, I had been able to buy nearly all •!
needed. Although the king was always ready to give me
presents of food, I generally refused, not wishing to afford
the baser sort occasion for remark, as they watch all strangers
and visitors with a jealous eye, lest they should rob them of their
share of the chiefs bounty. I have been compelled to part with
everything saleable, and am now sleeping under skins instead of
blankets. TO PANDA AGAIN FOR GOODS.
June 12th, 1883. — The king sent me away in his largest river-
boat with good men, and with instructions that I was to be

1883.] Among the Barotse. 81
landed while the boat was shooting the rapids. Besides Kama's
young man, Sitobe, a little lad, named Sikinini, accompanied me.
We have now been twelve days on the river, but delays have
been constant. Oh, these people are slow! We stopped at
Litofe two nights, and I was nearly devoured by mosquitoes
and vermin. I have had two fever relapses, but not severe ones.
Shesheke. — After a very tedious journey we arrived here. My
principal food was buffalo meat, as I had not goods enough
to buy sufficient corn for the road. The boats got through
the rapids without serious damage. I preferred being wetted
with the water to getting my legs cut with rocks and reeds,
and did not leave the boat, but we had a narrow escape at
one point. A TWELVEMONTH'S LETTERS.
Leshuma. — After remaining a few days at Shesheke I came
down the river and met Mr. Westbeech here ; and oh, the joy of
getting such a budget of letters after a twelvemonth — forty-three,
I think, in all ! Though my health was very good on arrival,
my eyes were still weak. I met here a young Englishman,
Mr. E. Selous, brother of the one with whom I travelled to
Bamangwato. I have decided to return the first opportunity to
the Barotse, as I find it is too late to get to Shoshong this year.
The roads are already dry, so I shall go to Panda for what I need
and then return. SIKININl's KINDNESS.
On the 1 7th July I left Leshuma for Panda-ma-tenka with the
view of making purchases at Mr. Westbeech's store there. The
first day's walk of twenty miles sadly blistered my feet, making
one of them very sore. Next day we had hoped to reach the
Gashuma wells, but my sore feet hindered me greatly. I, however,
hobbled on until nearly midnight, when we came upon smouldering
fires which had been left by a company of raiding Matabele. I
called to the men to lie down and rest, knowing that we should
come to some water after a short march next morning. Before
going to sleep I commended all to God, and asked Him in
prayer to lead us safely to some place where we should have
a supply of water next morning. Little Sikinini, who had heard
my request, and probably thought I was suffering from want of
water, could not rest with the others, but started off alone in the
G

82 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
direction of water. After a few hours' sleep we got up to con
tinue our journey, as the day was breaking. To my surprise I
met Sikinini coming back with a calabash of water in one hand,
and a cup in the other. The little fellow had got to the water
during the night, and had brought back a supply for his master.
When within about twenty miles of Panda I met a hunter,
whose horse I hired, and rode into the town, where I remained
five days, and was able to buy enough barter-goods to keep me
going for six or nine months. The crops have nearly all failed
this year at the Barotse, so that living will be very dear; and
I have to pay a heavy price here for very poor calico : the white
is the best for buying food.
Leaving Panda-ma-tenka again on the 26th July, I arrived at
Leshuma on the fourth day. To show how quickly the water
dries up here, I may mention that where, ten days before, we
found quite a large piece of water, we now had to dig for it, and
only got a little muddy stuff for our trouble.
VISIT TO VICTORIA FALLS.
August ith, 1883. — Having now a suitable opportunity I started
from Leshuma this morning for the Victoria Falls. Had a
pleasant day's walk to the river over desolate country. Camped
in the evening on the steep, wooded banks of the Zambesi,
surrounded by most beautiful scenery.
8th. — Walked some distance along the river, stopping opposite
to Sepupwa's town to engage one or two more carriers, and buy
corn, etc.
gth. — The country was very rough and wild; no path; con
stant stumbling over big boulders, and ploughing through high
grass and reeds. The grass in many places is like long lances,
cutting one's hands and face frightfully at times. Mr. Selous
fell into a game-pit, and got hurt slightly. These pits are very
cleverly covered over with sticks, grass, etc., so that they are very
dangerous to strangers.
On the morning of the -sixth day after leaving Leshuma we
reached the Falls. I had expected something grand, but never
anything so stupendous and terrific as they appear ; yet they are
beautiful in the extreme. The depth of the fall of water is about
400 feet. In some parts it breaks, in descending, over projecting

1883.] Among the Barotse. 83
crags, and in other parts comes over in one sheer plump. The
cloud of spray, in which beautiful rainbows appear, rises a long
distance into the air, falling again over the banks as it is blown
by the wind, so that the vegetation close to the Falls is of the
richest and most tropical character I have yet seen.
AN ESCAPE.
Here I had a narrow escape from a lion. Walking along
alone, a horrid growl and rustle of bushes at my very side
startled me. I must have been within a few feet of the monster,
whose voice was unmistakable. Turning round I walked slowly
backward, with my eyes on the spot, and then, when well clear,
I went off at a quick walk. I had not a gun with me. On
returning to camp I found that two large lions had come up in
broad daylight to within sixty yards of the camp. They were
shot at, and one, which was wounded, again came fiercely up at
night, and would have done mischief had not all been awake,
and kept him off with shouting, scattering fire, etc.
THE NORTH SIDE OF THE ZAMBESI.
On the north side of the river one Mosotan has a large town.
I had met him before, and sent word that I wanted to visit his
town. He sent two of his men to greet me, with a large
calabash of motoha, a native drink, and asked me to go up the
river to his drift or ferry. According to promise I went next
day, and he was very glad to see me, and gave me a goat for
food. In the evening I crossed over and walked to his town,
and spent the first part of the night surrounded by crowds of
his people dancing and drumming. These Batoka are very open
to conversation, more so than to be lectured to. I stayed the
next day with them, and left early the following morning,
travelling back again on the north bank of the river.
We came upon many companies of scattered Batoka and
Basubia, with whom I had short conversations in passing.
Towards the evening of the second day we made for the
town of Sepupwa, on an island in the river, and camped there.
In the morning we hailed the people, but were told that as the
headman ot the town was absent they could not speak with us,
nor send boats across. I waited and tried to persuade them,

84 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
but they said they were all slaves, and were afraid to look at
strangers. Another day brought us to Mahaha's town, close to
the Gezangula ferry by which we intended to cross. Our way
lay across low, flat country, full of marsh, which we had to
wade through, sometimes struggling for miles up to the waist in
water and rotting grass. I knew Mahaha pretty well, having met
him at Lealui. Next morning we crossed over and walked
to Leshuma, where I waited for carriers from Shesheke to take
me up the river. RATAU AND THE KING'S DOG.
Shortly after my return to Leshuma, Ratau, from Shesheke, came
down with others, saying that the chief had sent the headman from
the upper river with his boat to take me up. Mr. Westbeech
thought to go up and visit the chief at the same time, so we
proposed to travel together. I went on to Shesheke, intending to
await Mr. Westbeech's arrival, and remained as guest of Ratau,
with whom I had many interesting conversations. A happy
incident occurred, which was helpful to the old man. The king
had commissioned Ratau to buy for him a very expensive
greyhound, which Ratau had done, taking it with him to
Shesheke, and intending to send it on to the king. Here the
dog broke lose, and made for the road by which it had come. It
would have to pass through a country infested with lions, and,
worst of all, swim the Ungwesi and Zambesi, in both of which
crocodiles abound, so that Ratau gave up all hope of ever seeing
the dog again, and was much cast down. Shortly before, a horse
in his care belonging to the king had been lost, also some goods ;
and now, if this dog did not turn up, he might as well drown
himself. He came into my " skerm " in great distress. I
tried to soothe him ; but he added, " It was of no use ; he
would never see the dog again." The thought struck me that '
this was an opportunity given me to prove the power of the God
I had been speaking to him about two nights before. I prayed
silently to the Lord about it, and felt confidence in telling Ratau
that the dog would come back. " No, no," said he ; " No, no ; "
and soon went away. In about an hour afterwards the dog came
back. Some men cutting firewood had met it and turned it back.
Poor Ratau could not find words to thank me and express his
belief in the reality of my God. The news went all through the

1883.] Among the Barotse. 85
town that the teacher's God had sent back the king's dog. The
dog must have been caught just about the time I asked the Lord
for it Quite a lively interest sprung up. Ratau to-night said
that he and his wives wanted me to have a large meeting with
all his people in the daytime ; they all wanted much to hear.
" We listen to you praying and singing at night," said he (when
alone I forget that the reed walls of my house are so thin that
every word spoken is heard outside), " but we want you to speak
to us more during the day."
Shesheke, September 24th. — After a very tedious journey I got
here safely two days ago. One evening we were benighted on
the river. It became very dark, and my men were anxiously
paddling up stream, when a hippopotamus came after the boat I
was in, grunting fiercely and gnashing his teeth at us. We pulled
hard to get to shallow water, but the beast followed us. I had no
powder at hand for my gun. The men jumped out ; but being
loth to leave the boat at the mercy of the brute, I took my steel
and flint and struck fire in his face. This stopped him, and he
turned back to deep water. RE-ASCEND THE RIVER.
Shesheke, October yd. — Mr. Westbeech arrived, but in very
poor health, so much so that, after remaining with him for a few
days, and there being no signs of improvement, we decided that
he should return to Panda-ma-tenka, and I should proceed alone
to Lealui.* Nothing of importance occurred during the first part
of our journey up the river. My boatmen were very diligent
in hunting, so that this time we were fairly well supplied with
meat. On one occasion a troop of buffaloes was seen near the
water, and all the men started at once in pursuit, whilst I
remained by the stuff, sitting quietly reading under my umbrella.
In a short time I noticed some curious objects on the tops of the
trees — here and there an old shirt, or a little piece of white cloth
* Since my return to England I have heard of the death of Mr. Westbeech.
He was of a brave and, affectionate disposition, beloved by all who knew him
— both black and white. His name will ever be associated with the trading
station of Panda-ma-tenka and the Victoria Falls. It was he who opened the
first waggon road through the eastern Matabele country (with the help of the
chief Mosilikatse) about sixteen years ago ; and he was ever the hospitable
entertainer and succourer of missionary and scientific travellers alike.

86 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
fluttering in the breeze. The secret of this I soon discovered.
My brave crew had overtaken the buffaloes, but after firing a few
shots they were attacked by an infuriated old bull, who had
compelled them all to climb the trees, and kept them prisoners
there for some hours. We were thus obliged to sleep at this place
that night, and to make the best of our disappointment. A few
days later my men organized another hunt, with the help of a
small company of natives we met at the Nyambe Falls. They
succeeded in killing a large rhinoceros close by my camp. This
gave us a supply of meat sufficient to last for many days, and we
were enabled to push on without many delays.
At one point I and my crew had a very narrow escape from
total destruction. We were pulling along against a heavy stream
close to a high precipitous bank of heavy soil, when suddenly the
whole bank gave way, falling into the river just alongside of our
boat, so that some of the men were thrown overboard, and the
boat was filled with earth and water. We instantly began baling
out, and she soon righted. Had we been a few feet nearer
shore we should all have been buried alive. The water under us
before the landslip was very deep, and flowed in a steady, even
current. Immediately after the landslip it was but a few feet in
depth, and the current was diverted to the middle of the river.
A HEARTY WELCOME.
October 22nd. — Arrived to-day at landing-place for Lealui, and
sent word to the king. Next morning ten of the king's men
came down with a horse. They shouted out many a hearty
welcome, jumping about, lifting up my bundles, and running
here and there. Liwanika received me very kindly, and gave me
a nice snug hut in the town, but said he was going to build me
a large one outside the town, on a small mound or hill, a much
better site than I had had before. After two days the king sent
to me by his private servant eight children to be instructed (two
being his own sons), ranging in age from eight to fifteen.
Lealui, October 30th.— Besides teaching the boys the alphabet
and numbers, I read a little from the New Testament, and try to
explain it to them. We get on famously. How different every
thing is this year from last ! My health could not be better ;
the people, small and great, are kind and thoughtful, and do

1883.] Among the Barotse. 87
their best to make me comfortable. The king has given me a
present of a cow and calf, a parrot from the west coast, a little
slave boy (free now), and a handsome waterproof coat brought to
him by a Portuguese.
Old Mamwia was very glad to see me. She gave me some
corn, and kissed my hand over and over again. This old woman
had heard from the London Missionary Society's missionaries,
who had visited Linyanti many years before, of Jesus, King of
Galilee, and she had on my former visit repeatedly invited me
to her yard to read the Sechuana Testament with her, and now
she was among the first to welcome me on my return. It was
Mamwia's husband, Gumbela, who took me before the king and
all the Barotse headmen, asking in the name of the Barotse that
I might be better cared for, and my wants supplied. I think old
mother Mamwia put him up to this. Next morning I got a fat
ox to kill.
I was also much interested in a young lad named Simboula. My
own two servants — Setobi, and a lad the king gave me to work
for me — were very troublesome, and at times, if I was at all unwell,
would be away all day. So this poor slave would come at every
opportunity, and sit beside me, always cheerful and willing to do
anything for his white " bass " (master). I took a great liking to
him ; but he was sent down to his old master at Mbova. When
I was there recently, he came to see me. I gave him two and
a half yards of cloth for his help to me at Lealui when I greatly
needed it. As he looked at me I had to turn away my head,
and a big tear rolled down my cheek. Meeting the poor lad
brought to my mind many a kind act by night and by day.
These cases, with others, stand out more brightly, because of
the general feeling of utter indifference and coldness that reigns
in the hearts of most of these heathen.
GOD'S POWER NEEDED.
Heathenism in its nakedness is a fearful thing, a deadly stagna
tion of wickedness. Surely the power of God alone can prevail
over it. Oh for strength to prevail with God for a blessing
upon the heathen! It is said of Jacob, that "by his strength
he had power with God: yea, he had power over the angel,
and prevailed ; he wept, and made supplication unto Him. . . .

88 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
Therefore turn thou to thy God : keep mercy and judgment,
and wait on thy God continually." (Hosea xii. 3-6.) Yes, the
supplicating, weeping heart will prevail.
But we read in Genesis xxxii. that when the angel saw that he
prevailed not against Jacob, "he touched the hollow of his thigh;
and the hollow of Jacob's thigh was out of joint, as he wrestled
with him." Jacob still clung, and said, "I will not let thee go,
except thou bless me." Then follow the words, "Thy name
shall be called no more Jacob, but Israel: for as a prince has^
thou power with God and with men, and hast prevailed." For
this power with God I long.
In his prayer Jacob referred to the time when he had left
his home : " With my staff I passed over this Jordan." Then
his limbs were strong, and doubtless he thought but little of the
support of his staff while he journeyed along. But now, me-
thinks, he would lean harder on that staff; its support would
be indispensable to him in his maimed condition. And is it not
so with him who is of a broken spirit ? He leaneth hard upon
his Lord, and without Him he cannot go forward.
ENCOURAGEMENT AND WONDER.
My hope and confidence is, that though the instrument and
means be the feeblest, blessing will come. Already there is a
rustling among the leaves. At the mention of the things of God
a silent solemnity has now among many taken the place of
loud laughter and profane questioning. You will not fail to
tell all those who are praying for Africa about the happy
encouragement I have had since coming again among the people,
and stir up all to more prayer and earnestness before God;
so that we may get all that the gracious Lord may please to call
from this nation to Himself—" not a hoof left behind." Praise
the Lord, His own will be gathered "from every nation, and tongue,
and people!" Then we shall rejoice together, shall we not?
We have now that which seals our joy. But what shall be
our portion then ?
Oh, my heart goes beyond these tribes to the tribes upon
tribes, nations upon nations, extending north, west, and east,
living to kill and be killed, unknown, and knowing nothing-
millions of our fellow-beings, who do not know that there is

1883.] Among the Barotse. 89
a God, a Saviour ! When told in their old age the precious
gospel message of hfe, they marvel at the fact that they have
lived so long without having heard it. The heathen wonder —
they are surprised, they cannot understand — how it is that those
who have known these things, and have believed in God and in
His Son, have never come to warn them, and tell them of the
true God. These words come from the very heart of Africa;
they are not the words of one man only, but of many.
A CHAPTER IN AFRICAN HISTORY.
Let me now give a slight history of the Upper Zambesi tribes,
so far as I can.
Somewhere between 18 10 and 1820 a branch of the Basuto
tribe, called the Makololo, lived in the country now occupied
by the Batlapins, in the south of Bechuanaland. Two brothers,
Sebituane and Mosheshi, had a dispute about the chieftainship,
so they agreed to separate, Sebituane going north, Mosheshi
sometime afterwards going south. Sebituane fought his way
through the Bechuana tribes, taking many oxen from all the
tribes, and went on, greedy of more conquests. After fighting
and heating off the Matabele, he arrived at the Zambesi in the
year 1823. (I obtained this date from Senhor Porto.) He was
soon master of the Batoka country, and in that same year came
up the river as far as Shesheke. All the Mashi tribe and the
Mangeti up the Chobe river yielded to him, after great slaughter,
and he was soon chief of an immense country.
Just then Malunda, the chief of the Barotse, died, and, as is
often the case here, left no acknowledged heir to the chieftain
ship. Two supposed heirs were going to quarrel about it, when
the strongest, and evidently the wisest, went down the river to
the great chief Sebituane, and invited him to take possession ol
the Barotse kingdom. Of course might was right in this case,
and the weaker party of the Barotse fled far up the Zambesi
river, and, I am told, enjoy a very happy and peaceful little
kingdom there all to themselves in a fine healthy country.
Sebituane put to death many of the old men and would-be kings
among the Barotse. Malunda left three young sons ; too young
to be kings, poor things. Their names were — Mokobeso, Ditia,
Sepopo. Mokobeso was betrayed to the Makololo while in

go Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan,
hiding among the Mangeti tribe, and killed. Ditia died some
where of a natural death, leaving three sons and three daughters
that I know of; and the eldest of his sons is the present king.
Sepopo fled among the Mambunda. -
But to return to the Makololo story. Many of Sebituane's
headmen were much against him for taking upon himself the
rule of so much country and so many people. "Whom," said
they (to quote the words of an old Makololo woman), "whom
will you leave behind you to take charge of this great nation ?
We Makololo are only a handful of people compared with all
these." Sebituane, in the ordinary course of nature, died, and
his son, Sekeletu, a mere boy, reigned in his stead. He made '
a desperate attempt to obtain great power, killing every one
whom he thought to be at all powerful in his own or other
tribes. Sekeletu, in the midst of his days, was stricken with
leprosy, and died miserably. His son and heir, being too young
to reign, the child's uncle, Borolo, was appointed regent. A
dispute that followed between Borolo and his brother led to
a civil war. The Barotse tribe up the river, watching their
opportunity, with Sepopo at their head, now marched down and
fell upon the Makololo, who perished to a man. Only women
and little girls were left alive, and one or two infant boys, saved,
like Moses, by being hid away. These Makololo women still
live an unhappy and exiled life among a race of people whom
they were ever taught to look down upon as dogs and slaves.
The Makololo are of a reddish copper colour; the Barotse of a
pitchy black.
As soon as the Barotse had got the upper hand they called for
their head, Sepopo, collecting their forces in the Barotse valley.
Meanwhile the Batoka also called back their exiled chief. Sepopo
at once sent down his challenge to this man. The result was a
sharp fight, and again the Barotse were victorious, and ever since
the Batoka have been tributary to the Barotse. All the other
tribes round about gave in to Sepopo, so he reigned paramount.
Sepopo, though often in the Barotse valley, preferred living at
Shesheke, for the sake of trade with the white people.
The Barotse headmen, being left to themselves, had time to
foster their discontent, and to lay their plans against Sepopo.
At last, about seven or eight years ago, they started from the

l884] Among the Barotse. 91
valley in great numbers for Shesheke. Sepopo was told of his
danger, but would not believe it. At the last moment he fled for
his life, when a bullet from one of his own attendants killed him.
The Barotse then put into the chieftainship Wanawena, son of
Mokobeso, elder brother of Sepopo. He laid a plan to revenge
Sepopo's death, and to kill all the leaders in the rebellion.
He was met, however, by a new king, Leboshe or Liwanika,
and after a tough fight was driven back, and one of his servants
killed him, to avenge himself of his brother's death. Liwanika's
next exploit was to kill off a number of Mambunda, who he
thought were in favour of some other chief. He next waged
war against the Mashukulumbe, and captured many of their
cattle. Yet Liwanika is a mean-spirited and trembling fellow.
He seems to have been carried on by a crowd of leaders,
but is himself no leader or ruler. Almost daily he quarrels
with his "officers of state," and they taunt each other, and I
fear the end will be another king-killing.
REASONING WITH LIWANIKA.
Lealui, January ist, 1884. — Had a long talk with the king this
evening about the stars and the sun. He then wanted to know
where God dwelt, and what He did with man when dead. I
answered that God was not confined to one place, as we are;
that when man's body died, the spirit of him who was a child of
God went above and dwelt for ever in the presence of God, and
those whom God knew not here in this life were cast out into a
place of sorrow and burning.
"But why does God do so?" he asked. "What reason has
He for putting man from Him?" I explained to him something
of the righteousness of God ; that He could in no wise clear the
guilty. The king argued that here they did not know God's
laws. How then could God punish them for not keeping them ?
I answered that God having planted His law in their hearts, they
all knew what was right, and what was wrong. " You know," said
I "when a man lies to your face and steals from you that
he injures you, and you call him bad and wicked. So when you
to-morrow do the same thing, God judges you with the same
judgment with which you judged your fellow-creature yesterday."
His only answer was, " Yes, that is true ; that I understand."

92 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
Presently he muttered something about the hardness of man's
lot, and I tried to explain God's love to him in the gift of His
Son; and after listening for a little he suddenly bustled away,
saying, like Felix, "Well, well, I will call you again to speak
about this matter." LIFE AT LEALUI.
January 4th. — War is the great employment here at present.
One impi (native name for army) has just come in with long
strings of captives — poor naked women and children. The man
who can show by the pieces of skin from the bodies of his
victims that he has killed many is danced round by the women
as a great hero.
gth. — The king seems more afraid of the word of God since
our last talk, as he is little inclined to speak again on the
subject. 14th. — Candle-making to-day, with beeswax and ox-fat.
1 6th. — Washing-day.
20th. — Down with severe headaches; no sleep night or day.
Silva Porto, the Portuguese traveller, arrived here a few days ago.
He has come to trade with Liwanika for ivory, and has brought
with him a large quantity of calico, guns, and powder. He
is most urgent that I should return with him to Bihe".
26th. — Two men were tried for witchcraft in front of my yard
this morning. They went through the customary ordeal, dipping
their hands into the boiling water as coolly as possible ; for these
brutal trials are so common that even the victims show but little
concern. In the evening both were brought out of their prison
hut, and being found badly scalded, were considered guilty and
condemned to the flames.
27th. — The two men were burned this morning. I asked the
king and his people to come to my yard to hear the gospel, but
he seemed annoyed at this public invitation, and said I must
be content with the children ; nor would he allow me to speak to
him there, saying that the big people did not want to learn these
things. 29^.— Headaches very bad. I fall into fits of stupor, probably
owing to the great heat, with little rain.

1884.] Among the Barotse. 93
EXTREME HEAT AND FLOODS.
February 6th. — Much better; have been keeping indoors
more during the day, and am getting on well with the Testament
and a dictionary of Sekololo and Serotsi (the languages of the
Makololo and the Barotse).
The heat so affects everything that the people of the town are
all either asleep or lazily lying about, drinking thin beer. Not
even a dog is seen. The oxen out in the plain try to stand or lie
in each other's shadow, caring little for the rich long grass all
around; the king's horses get into the shade of some hut, and
their heads hang wearily between their knees; scarcely a bird
flutters, and the smoke from the little fire at which the boys
are cooking my dinner ascends slowly in an even column through
the hot air. Such days are generally followed by a tremendous
thunderstorm, lightning without intermission, and startling crashes
of thunder, far on into the night. During a severe thunderstorm
the natives do not eaf, drink, or work.
1 2th. — The valley is now flooded ; one cannot go a few yards
from the door without a boat.
20th. — The king and the people of the town, my scholars
included, have gone on a grand deer-hunt, so I am left alone,
with only a few women and slaves in the town. I have taken
advantage of this quietness to> begin chair-making and sewing,
and to clean my gun for some duck and goose shooting, my only
hope of getting some meat during the king's absence. The
slaves of the town got up a fight in their masters' absence, and
two men were brought to me to have their wounds stanched and
bound up. The one had a knife-stab, the other's head and face
had been laid open with an axe.
22nd. — Last night an attempt was made to break into my
house. To-day the king's head-servant sent round the town crier,
threatening with death any who should attempt to steal from me.
EFFECTS OF CLIMATE ON HEALTH.
March 14th. — Have had a run of quartan ague all this month.
Hearing that Senhor Porto was laid up, I borrowed a boat
and went across the valley, and found him very ill indeed
with ophthalmia.

94 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April,
2gth. — News has come up the river to the effect that a waggon
has just arrived from Shoshong. M. Coillard has sent a blanket
to the king with a few lines from Basutoland, dated April, 1882,
to say that he was coming on. The father superior of the Jesuits
has also sent a letter and a blanket to the king. They are very
energetic, and determined to succeed.
Lord's-day, 2,0th. — Had very few at my house this morning, but
a large company at the afternoon meeting, which lasted from three
o'clock until sunset. Sitting in a draught I got a chill, and spent
most of the night in passing through the three stages of ague.
April gth. — Found Senhor Porto better, but he has lost the
sight of one eye.
10th. — The king returned from his hunt and held a grand
reception in the kotla, sitting in state on his chair under a big
" Ashanti " umbrella. The people greeted their chief by kneeling
in front of him and rolling their heads in the dust.
17th. — There has been quite a plague of serpents here lately.
Within the last few days I and my boys killed two in the house
and three in the yard. While bathing near my house I saw three
serpents hanging from the reeds above my head, and the same
day, when landing from a boat, the boy in front sprang back
in terror as he pointed out two black cobras coiled in the grass in
front of us. One big yellow snake had been sharing my bed for
I do not know how long.RUMOURS OF CIVIL WAR.
April 18th. — Senhor Porto's man came to ask whether I would
go or not, but to this I really cannot say "Yes" or "No."
My eyes have been failing, and threaten as they did last year.
My goods are gone, or nearly so. Strange rumours are afloat,
and strange things have been going on since the king's return : I
fear it is the beginning of another civil war.
A poor old woman who had always been kind to me was
burned this morning as a witch. She was suspected of putting
a crocodile's tooth amongst the king's corn in order to bewitch
him, and having been tried by the boiling-pot test was condemned
I believe it was a trick of some spiteful rascals who were her
servants, and had prepared corn for the king, for they brought
the tooth to one of the king's head-servants.

1884.] Among the Barotse. 95
igth.— Another old man tested by the boiling pot to-day; he
was supposed to have bewitched the king's brother, who, though
a young man, is so fat that walking is a difficulty to him ; imagin
ing that his fat was leaving him he decided that this old man
must be the wizard.
20^. — The old man has, strange to say, come out of the trial
uninjured. I saw him twice dip his hands into boiling water,
allowing the water to run over his wrists as he lifted his hands
out, and yet to-day his skin seems quite natural. The only
cause for this I can think of is that he is nearly a century
old, and his hands are as tough as tough can be. This was
flourished before me as a great victory, achieved under my very
eyes, in favour of the boiling-pot trials. The advocates for this
piece of barbarism declare that if the hands of an infant who
knew nothing of witchcraft were placed in boiling water, not
a particle of skin would come off. They delight in the
practice, because by it the rich can get rid of their poorer
enemies without staining their own hands with the poor men's
blood. PROMISE SENHOR PORTO TO LEAVE WITH HIM.
April 22nd. — Gumbelaand some of my friends seemed to
think it was well that I should leave just now, because of the
troubles brewing, so I told Senhor Porto that I would accompany
him to Bihe".
27th. — Down again with fever since my last note; it has left
me weak indeed ; I hope soon to be out of the valley, on to the
fine hills to the west. BID FAREWELL TO THE KING.
May ist. — As the king sent word that a boat was ready for me,
I packed up, sending to his house what things I was unable to take
with me, and giving the key of my house to one of his servants.
When I went to say good-bye, he shook hands long and warmly,
saying, "You are my friend; come back very soon. But," he
added in a tone of sadness, " you may not find me here."
yd. — Alarming news as to the Barotse; plans are laid for
a revolt against Liwanika, and it is intended to set up the son
of Sekuferu.

96 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May, 1884.
May 4th. — I arranged to-day with Senhor Porto about carriers,
and shall ride upon an ox instead of being carried in a hammock,
as he proposed, for that would be too comfortable a way of
travelling, and might make me discontented and extravagant at
other times.
Note. — As from this point a great change takes place in Mr. Arnot's course
some general remarks may be helpful. Though always ready to be guided as
his way might be opened up, his original thought was to reach the Batoka, on
the high land to the north of the Zambesi. The reader will have gathered
that he was reluctantly obliged to give up this purpose, and was constrained to
make a long sojourn at the capital of the Barotse kingdom. From the time of
his setting foot in Africa till he reached the Zambesi a year was occupied, and
in the Barotse valley or its neighbourhood nearly two years were spent,
much of this period being necessarily taken up with travelling to and fro
between Panda-ma-tenka and Lealui. With the means at his disposal these
journeys, whether through the desert country or on the great river, were
accompanied with toil and privation. But the enforced stay in the malarious
Barotse Valley, without opportunity of change to the mountains, caused the
chief injury to his health, and although Mr. Arnot does not enlarge upon his
sufferings when ill for weeks together in a native hut, they were evidently very
great. Medical care, companionship, nursing, proper diet, and comforts were
all lacking, and it was no wonder that his health quite broke down. His stay
in the Upper Zambesi was, however, not in vain. By his patience in suffering
and his words he left a testimony that could not be forgotten, and he also
occupied the ground until M. Coillard was close at hand. There would have
been abundant scope for both, and M. Coillard looked forward to having Mr.
Arnot as a fellow-labourer in the vicinity, as his letters in the Appendix show.
Ultimately Mr. Arnot's steps were turned by a circuitous route, as we shall
see, somewhat in the direction that he originally contemplated.. The Garen
ganze country, which he reached, is however too far from the Barotse to afford
direct communication with M. Coillard at present. The varied experience
gained by Mr. Amot during two or three years of intercourse with the natives
was another good result of his visit to the Zambesi, and was very helpful to
him in his further service. We now proceed with his diary of the journey from
Lealui to Benguella, a Portuguese town on the west coast of Africa, — Ed.

III.
JFrom t&e Zambest to benguella.
Start for the West Coast — The Bambunda — Hilly Country — Watershed of
Zambesi and Quando — Oxen Bewitched — The Bakuti — Interesting
Audiences — Hostile Tribes — Stragglers Stolen and Rescued — A Warm
Greeting' — Natural Affection — Fetishism— An African Thought-reader —
An Open Door for the Gospel — A Hot Dispute about a Debt — Portuguese
Territory — European Influence — Disastrous News of American Mission at
Bailundu — Despotic Power of Chiefs — Expulsion Threatened — Threat
Carried Out — Evil Counsels Defeated — Missionaries again in Bailundu; —
Superstitions of Ovimbundu — Funeral Ceremonies — Charms — "Christian
Relics" — African Languages — Arrival of Embassy from Garenganze —
Benguella — Decide to go to Garenganze — The African Plateau — The
Ascent from Benguella — Leave for Bine — Stay at Bailundu — Return to
the Coast — Receive Letters.
START FOR THE WEST COAST.
May 8th, 1884. — I set out with Senhor Porto, not without much
pain and difficulty on my part, owing to an accident which I met
with last night, and which, but for the mercy of God, might have
been a very serious one. I had been repairing some guns for
the Barotse, and on firing a breechloader the hinge of the block
gave way, and my face and right eye were badly scorched by the
explosion. To add to my misfortune, my riding ox was sent off
by mistake in the early morning, so I had to be led by my little
boy for ten weary miles, most of the way wading up to the knees
in water, and then through rough bush. Reached the town of
Kangete and camped there.
10th. — Started on a small ox of Senhor Porto's. Our road lay
through thick forest, and a sorry journey the ox and I made,
between us. The foot-path was bad and narrow enough, but my
ox had no idea of keeping to it, and dragged me about in all
directions. After any delay, on catching sight of Senhor Porto's
oxen he would canter straight, towards them, leaving either me
or bits of my distressed clothing detained by the "wait-a-bit"

93

Seven Years in Central Africa.

[May,

thorn bushes. I managed with difficulty to retain my hat, but
the bandage I had round my eyes was left in the thorns. At
last I sent the ox about his business and lay down quite out of
breath, and, I fear, sadly out of temper. Some of the carriers
came to urge me on, but it was of no use, till a female slave,
carrying some provisions on her head, gave me a cool drink and
some coarse bread, which sent me on my journey, moralizing on
the superior humanity of women.
May 1 2th. — My own ox was secured this morning, and I got
on much better with him. Started from Kakap long before cock
crow (Senhor Porto carries a cock with him to crow), and early
in the day we reached Osore, a lake of considerable size, and
camped there. My eyes are gradually getting better through
the constant application of poultices of ox-dung heated in a pan.
My road all the way to Bihe is the same that Major Serpa
Pinto, the Portuguese traveller took, but in the reverse direction.
13^. — Crossed a deep running river, on the shoulders of a
stout Bihe' porter, and camped by the Nyengo.
\4tl1. — Passed through much water on the Nyengo flat, my ox
swimming bravely with me on his back. Camped at Relva.

Moue of Crossing River on Ox .back.

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 99
THE BAMBUNDA — HILLY COUNTRY.
May 15th. — A tedious journey through a dense, dark forest,
which smelt like a dank dungeon, with moss and lichen, but no
grass. Camped at Ka-kinga on the river Ninda, as the upper
part of the Nyengo is called, where the Ambuella, a small tribe
of the Bambunda race, are living.
igth. — Travelled along the right bank of the Ninda.
20th. — A wild-looking company of Bambunda hunters came
to the camp ; they dress their hair to imitate the horns of wild
animals, and one had a stick through his nose. In this part the
Bambunda are peaceable, but further on they form robber gangs,
and would be dangerous to a small party.
21st. — Journeyed along the Ninda. Ever since leaving the
Barotse valley we have been constantly ascending, so that now
we are travelling through hilly country, very cold at night, with
sharp touches of frost, but during the day the sun is strong. I
have tried to walk barefoot, my boots being worn out, but the
sand was so hot that after half-an-hour's hopping along I had
to give in, with four large blisters on my feet ; this is winter here.
WATERSHED OF THE ZAMBESI AND QUANDO.
May 22nd. — To-day we reach the source of the Ninda, which
flows from a range of hills dividing the water-flow between the
Zambesi and Quando (or Kwando) rivers. Here the hills are
high and thickly-wooded.
2yd. — Crossed the hills and reached the source of the river
Shulongo, tributary to the Kumbule, which again is tributary
to the Quando river. Following the Shulongo we came to the
Kumbule, a large, beautiful stream, which seemed to dance
along over a bed of silver sand, so bright that it was painful to
look at it. Orange, green, and other bright-coloured water-
weeds were growing in abundance, and were beautifully mixed.
All the rivers and little streams have the same bright appearance
in this part ofthe country, showing that "Afric's sunny fountains"
is no mere poetic dream; but the sands are silver, not "golden,"
as in Hebe^s hymn. It is a pity to see such a fertile and un
doubtedly healthy country so thinly peopled.
24^. — Crossed hilly country, densely wooded, and reached
the river Shikoloi, running south through a valley.

ioo Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
OXEN BEWITCHED.
May 2$th.— The oxen refusing to cross the river, were sent
up stream to look for a ford.
2 (>th. — There being no signs of the oxen, we started for the
Kuti river (Cuchibe of Serpa Pinto), crossing four hills and three
valleys. 27/A.— One of the carriers who has a familiar spirit, being
asked to divine why the oxen would not cross the Shikoloi,
called up the spirit of an old servant of Senhor Porto's, who said
that he had stopped the oxen because, presents had not been
given to his friends after his death. One of his friends was
amongst the company of carriers !
THE BAKUTI.
May 30th. — Deciding to visit the line of small towns along
this river belonging to the Bakuti, a people akin to the Bam
bunda, we got a boat and pulled up the stream, stopping at all
the huts and small villages. The people showed much frankness,
and said how glad they were to see an " English '' for the first
time. I asked them to gather together at their chief town in
two days' time, and then I would speak to them.
2ist. — All day buying food, which the people bring in abund
ance. I never saw food anywhere in Africa so cheap as it is
here. A piece of calico, about the size of a handkerchief, will
buy about twenty pounds of meal or a calabash of honey.
INTERESTING AUDIENCES.
June ist. — In the afternoon a goodly company had assembled
to be spoken to, all men; for everywhere in Africa the women
are the most conservative and the most difficult to persuade
into receiving anything new, and here they had shut themselves
up in their huts. These people had lived in such seclusion that
they knew nothing of teachers living amongst other tribes, the
limit of their knowledge being the west-coast trader, his goods,
his ivory, and, in past years, his string of slaves. Speaking
through my interpreter, Antonio, I told them in the simplest
language of God the Creator, of man's departure from Him, of
the sending forth of God's Son as a Saviour, and of His now
sending messengers throughout the world to call men back to

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 101
Himself. Their close attention made me feel that the Spirit of
God was blessing the word, and at the end they expressed their
thanks by clapping their hands. The chief then said that they
could not tell how happy they were that I had spoken in that
way to them ; he had believed in a great God who had made all
things, but he wanted to know that God, that he might pray to
Him at all times.
Senhor Porto says that these people are exceptionally simple
and honest ; he has never known them to steal any of the goods
that he has left in the charge of their chief from time to time.
They live in square houses built close to the river Kuti, which
forms their highway; each person possesses a boat, and, as
there is a continual traffic going on, the river presents a very
lively appearance. The hair of these people receives more
dressing than their bodies ; the men wear a skin before and
behind from the girdle, but the women use calico for their
clothing. They have blankets made of the inner bark of a large
tree, beaten soft.
4th. — Many gathered at the villages, and we had a good
time this morning. One man showed great interest, and said
afterwards, " This day I am a child of Jesus Christ : now I will
pray to God alone." Some wished me to return to-morrow, but
the chief said, " No, we shall tire the white man by his coming
so far; we will gather together, and go to his camp."
$th. — A goodly number came to the camp to-day.
6th. — Had a long talk with the chief and the man who said he
was a Child of Jesus Christ, and told them, that though I was
leaving, I would, God willing, return to them. The chief replied
that they would look much for my return, that they would not
fo.rget the good news brought to them, and that they would pray
God to bring me back in safety. I have hope toward God that
these two men have indeed drunk of that living water, of which
if a man drink he shall never thirst again. As yet I have not
been able to fulfil my promise of returning, but should be indeed
glad to do so.
8th. — Started for the village of Kwawewe, but learning that
the people had moved away and were living amongst the reeds
some distance off, I at last found their huts, but in the chief's
absence was not allowed to visit them.

102 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
qth. — The chief came to-day, saying he was sorry he was
absent yesterday, but that now he had brought his people to
hear what I had to say. I spoke to them all in my hut, and the
chief, who seems to be a sensible, cautious man, thanked me
repeatedly, and wanted to give me a little boy as a present.
HOSTILE TRIBES.
June i2tk. — Left Serpa Pinto's road and kept on by the river
Kuti ; passed straggling towns of Bambunda and Bachibokwe.
i-^th. — Started early in the morning, the main body of the
carriers being behind. We passed several villages of Bambunda
safely, the people only coming out to look at us, but when we
reached one of their large towns they gathered round us dancing,
shouting, and yelling to us to stop, and swinging their weapons
over our heads. They then laid hold on some of the carriers,
and drove off my ox, so I ran back and kept them off the goods
until Senhor Porto came up with some more men. Springing
from his hammock he seized his gun, which made the ruffians fall
back. Having recovered my ox, I started off with the boys and
women carriers, while Senhor Porto and some armed men kept
the Bambunda at bay.
14^. — Reached the town of Herero, who is headman of the
Bambunda living along the Kuti. He proved as disagreeable as
his people, demanding from us an ox and some tiger-skins. I
sent word to Herero that I was a man of peace, who had come
from far, and that I hoped to return to them shortly.
i$th. — Got off without further trouble, Senhor Porto having
given some tiger-skins to the chief. Left the Kuti, and, crossing
a very steep hill, descended to the river Kuvangui, a rapid and
deep stream, which I crossed by a frail wooden bridge, the
carriers going further up to a ford. Keeping by the Kuvangui
for four hours, we passed Kankanga's, and then camped at the
town of Kashima's daughter. I speak of " towns ; " but though
the people are in considerable numbers, gathered close together
under their chief, their huts are so hidden and scattered in
dense wood, that to a passer-by the only signs of the presence
of human beings are certain narrow and winding footpaths here
and there.

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 103
STRAGGLERS STOLEN — RESCUED WITH DIFFICULTY.
The regular camping places are generally on the border of
some forest, where the porters can get sufficient poles to erect
rude frameworks, the spaces of which are filled with leafy
branches, and in the rainy season a rough thatch covering is
added. We were busy getting our camp into order when some
Balojashe men came, evidently bent upon mischief. Getting
nothing for their impudence, they left us. In a short time, how
ever, we saw the long grass on all sides of us on fire. All
our men turned out, and beating down the flames as they
approached our camp, they succeeded in stamping out the fire.
We then called the men together and discovered that eight of our
number were missing, so that our worst suspicions concerning
these Balojashe were confirmed. They had set fire to the grass
around our camp to distract our attention while they carried
off all the stragglers they could catch. We found that two of our
men had been taken some distance, but the other six were still
in the neighbourhood. I started off with some thirty men, and
after a weary ten miles' journey over the hills we came upon the
Balojashe robbers, and found they were ready to fight with us, as
they only thought we had come to recover by force the stolen
men. I made every effort to get between my own men and
the Balojashe, and, as a sign of my peaceful intentions, I held up
one of their native stools in front of the threatening crowd and
then sat down upon it, urging them to sit down and talk with me.
The old chief, seeing the younger men fall back, began to chide
them for being afraid, and rushing forward he levelled his
gun at me, ready to fire. By this time our Bihe" men had their
guns to their shoulders, but I called upon them not to fire. The
young men, fearing that their old chief would bring mischief
upon them if he shot me, themselves laid hold of him, took
his gun from him, and marched him off to a hut close by, in the
most ignominious manner, with his hands behind his back. At
last one by one they came near and sat down, and we talked the
matter over. They said they were not embittered against us, but
against others, who were their enemies, and they promised to
bring down the two captives next day to camp. They kept their
word, and the stolen men were brought back next day ; presents

104 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
were exchanged, and thus ended what had been to me a very
trying ordeal indeed.
June 21st. — At the head of the Rovangwe River some men,
who remained behind with a worn-out ox, were attacked by a
roving company of Balojashe ; but a few carriers, observing what
had happened, laid down their loads and ran back to their
assistance, and the robbers decamped.
THE QUANDO RIVER.
June 22nd. — Left the Kuvangui valley, crossed a high range
of hills, in the midst of which runs the Sinsoy River, and reached
the Quando River (Livingstone's Chobe) in the afternoon. It
is nearly two years since I first struck this river some distance
below Linyanti, where it is broad and reedy, taking hours to
cross, while here it is but eight or ten feet broad.
23rd. — As we go up the Quando the scenery becomes more
expanded and grand. The hills on each side are high and wide
apart, and covered on the tops with dense forest. Bright, rapid
streams run down every valley. It is strange to find every stream
in this part of the country full in the dry season ; during the
rains they are low. The hills here seem to be one mass of sand,
firm though very porous.
24th. — Reached the head of the Quando, which rises very
quietly out of a pool about fifteen feet in diameter.
A WARM GREETING.
Our camp being soon crowded with people, of whom there are
many here, I- told one of the fathers of the tribe something of
my mission, and of the God whom I served. The old man ran off
excitedly to bring some other old men, who greeted me with
clapping of hands, and to them he retailed with great energy
what I had said to him. I told them I was only journeying
to get cloth wherewith to buy food, and would return soon. But
my old friend wanted to know exactly when I would come back.
They have no idea of months, so I showed with my hand
the height that his corn would be above the ground when he
might look for my return.
June 2$th.— Crossed the Kutau and Biseque ; camped at
Kambuti, at the head of the latter river. The Biseque joins

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 105
the Kutau, which falls into the Lungeungo, a tributary of the
Zambesi. For some time back I have been travelling almost entirely on
foot, as my riding-ox is quite done up for want of grass, which
the frost by night and the sun by day have withered to tinder
Walking fifteen miles a day through deep sand and under a
hot sun is not easy work, and on hearing of it Senhor Porto was
quite angry, saying that I should surely be ill after it ; so between
us we rigged up a hammock, and he has given me four of his
own men to carry it. To-day I enjoyed my hammock ride
amazingly. 26th. — At Kambuti. This is the first place where I have seen
the domestic pig in native territory.
27^. — Reached the Kansambe River, and camped at Brutwe.
The Kansambe is a small river running east, not west, as Serpa
Pinto has it in his map ; it joins the Kuango on its western side,
which runs parallel with the Kutau into the Lungeungo.
28^. — Crossed a high range of hills, and camped by the Kam-
bimbia, flowing west ; its waters go by the Nyonga and Kuito to
the Okovango river, which flows into Lake Ngami.
2gth.- — Crossing the Nyonga river we camped on the right-
hand bank of the Bembe river.
NATURAL AFFECTION.
June 30th. — Crossed the Kuito river. The Balojashe are not
found further west ; they belong to the Ambuella race, which is
the same as the Bambunda, their language being merely a
different dialect. Like all hill-men, they are wild -and trouble
some, continually roving about. Among themselves, however,
these natives are very playful and childlike, and seem very
fond of one another. Many of the Bachibokwe live amongst
them, but do not wander much from home like the hill-people.
Some who had been a short distance away, and had travelled in
our company, seemed to be quite overcome with joy at getting
home again. Their friends were not satisfied with merely em
bracing them, but caressed them in the most affectionate manner.
It reminded me of the conduct of a poor Masaroa woman, who
with her husband and baby had been captured by a company of
raiding Matabele. Her little boy of ten had escaped in the fray,

106 Seven Years in Central Africa. [June,
and remained behind ; but on the way her husband was killed,
and the woman, watching her opportunity, ran away from her
captors. After a wearisome journey of over seventy miles
through a most dreary and desolate country, with her little babe
on her back, she returned to the place where her boy was.
Taking him in her arms, with all the warmth of a true mother,
she burst into tears, saying, "Ah, my boy, you have lost your
father, and you do not know how near you were to losing
me ! "
Their attachment to one another, although a beautiful feature
in their character, is embarrassing at times to strangers ; for, on
seeking to strike a bargain with one of them, you find you have a
dozen to deal with. The same thing happens when one thinks
he is injured, be he young or old. A cry is raised, and all come
to the rescue. In this way I have seen the most serious dis
turbances arise out of the merest trifle.
FETISHISM.
The tribes we have passed through seem to have one common
religion, if it can be called by that name. They say there is one
great spirit, who rules over all the other spirits ; but they worship
and sacrifice to the spirits of ancestors, so far as I can learn, and
have a mass of fetish medicines and enchantments. The hunter
takes one kind of charm with him ; the warrior another. For
divining they have a basket filled with bones, teeth, finger-nails,
claws, seeds, stones, and such articles, which are rattled by the
diviner till the spirit comes and speaks to him by1 the movement
of these things. When the spirit is reluctant to be brought up, a
solemn dirge is chanted by the people. All is attention while
the diviner utters a string of short sentences in different tones,
which are repeated after him by the audience.
AN AFRICAN THOUGHT-READER.
These professional diviners are no doubt smart fellows, arch-
rogues though they be. The secret of their art lies in their
constant repetition of every possibility in connection with the
disaster they are called upon to explain, until they finally hit
upon that which is in the minds of their clients. As the people
sit around and repeat the words of the diviner, it is easy for

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 107
him to detect in their tone of voice, or to read in their faces,
the suspected source of the calamity. A man I knew had a
favourite dog, which was attacked one night by a leopard, but,
succeeded in escaping with one of its eyes torn out. To ascertain
the reason of this calamity the owner sent across the valley to
call one of these diviners. When the man arrived he was told
that a disaster had befallen my acquaintance, and was asked to
find out by divination what it was. Beginning in the morning,
he enquired respecting the man's family, without mentioning
their names. All the members of the family and their con
nections, male and female, young and old, ut home or absent,
were carefully gone over. Not getting any clue, he left the
relatives, and came to the oxen, questioning the spirit concerning
them ; but still receiving no reply through the fragments which
he continually shook in his basket, he next enquired about the
goats. That was not satisfactory, and at last he thought of the
dog. In the faces and tone of voice of his audience it was not
difficult to discern that he had hit the mark, and after hours of
dreary waiting his oracular utterance — obtained, of course, from
the bones and claws — that something had befallen ihe dog, seemed
to come quite as a relief. He now asked if the dog was dead ;
then if it was stolen ; then if it was wounded. Slyly reading the
response in their countenances, he said, "Yes, it was wounded."
Following up the trail, he touched upon all possibilities that
occurred to him, his audience mechanically repeating his ques
tions, till at last he demanded of the spirit, " Was it a leopard ? "
All the company roused up as they echoed, " Was it a leopard ? "
while they cast a knowing look of satisfaction at one another.
"Yes," the diviner replied, "it was a leopard." Then all present
shouted, "It was a leopard." But that was not enough. The
cause of the disaster had to be traced still further back. What
demon so possessed this particular leopard that it should attack
the dog of this wealthy man? So other questions had to be
asked, and the same process was continued. At last, towards
evening, the diviner arrived at the very same conclusion that the
owner of the dog had come to early that morning on hearing of
the accident to his dog ; namely, that the spirit of the father of
one of his wives had been grieved at the man's long absence from
his town and family, and had employed the leopard to tear the

108 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
dog's eye as a gentle reminder that it was time he should be
going back to his own village.

AN OPEN DOOR FOR THE GOSPEL.
I have detailed the foregoing incident at some length to give
some idea of the measure of religious enlightenment that these
poor people have. Yet among all these tribes there is an open
door for a messenger ofthe gospel. Every time I have been
able to gain their ear, unhindered by any quarrel, they have
shown much interest and delight, and have acknowledged that
they are living in darkness, and in ignorance of the great Spirit
who rules above all.
July 2nd. — Following the course of the Onda river, we passed
through a fine open country, crossing a running stream of water
every half hour, some large, some small, but all running rapidly.
During the dry season the whole country could be put under
water by irrigation. Why it should be almost entirely deserted
by the Kimbanda I cannot say. We reached the town of
Kabango, who had recently died ; the Kimbanda were very
civil, and careful not to give offence.
A HOT DISPUTE ABOUT A DEBT.
July 3rd, 1884. — Camped by the Letot river. Here a trouble
that had been brewing for a long time amongst the men, broke
out. We were now getting near to Bihe, and one of the men
insisted that another who owed him something should pay his
debt before they entered their own country. The other refused
to acknowledge his indebtedness, and hot words led to blows.
Seizing his gun, already loaded, the debtor pulled the trigger
twice while aiming at the other's breast, but being only a flint
lock it missed fire on both occasions. The creditor in self-defence
rushed on his assailant with a club, and compelled him to drop
his gun by breaking two of his fingers. The injured man then
seized his knife from his belt, rushed at the man he had failed
to shoot, and stabbed him, the knife entering rather deeply
into the abdomen. By this time the men in camp had come
to the rescue, and prevented further mischief by separating the
antagonists.

1884] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 109
PORTUGUESE TERRITORY.  EUROPEAN INFLUENCE.
July 4th.- — Spent four hours in crossing the Quanza river ; such
confusion I never saw- — every one rushing into the water to get
his own load into the boats. I stood up to the waist in water,
with a big stick, to prevent the men from overloading the long
canoes. Ultimately all got over safely, and camped at Yapepa,
close by the Kukema river.
$th— -Crossed in boats, and after a long day's journey lodged
at Chikoma's town, the same who found Cameron far in the
interior in very destitute circumstances, and brought him out to
Bihe", whence he reached Benguella.
I am now in Bihe territory, and mark a decided change for the
better in the outward appearance of everything. Every one is
well dressed ; the men wear hats and coats and a rather long cloth
kilt ; the women wrap themselves in cotton cloth from the arm
pits downwards ; bright, grotesque patterns being the rage amongst
them. Their houses are square and well built, with hinged doors
and native-made iron locks ; all, of course, in imitation of the
Portuguese. Their gardens are large, well-tilled, and neatly
furrowed, quite like our fields at home. But they are sadly
given to drink and immorality, it being an undeniable fact that
those tribes which live near Europeans, and imitate them, are
more depraved in their manners than the tribes of the interior.
14^. — We safely reached Belmonte, Senhor Porto's residence
in Bihe", and he kindly entertained me. Bihe' is the name
of a district, which is thickly peopled. To-day we went to see
the king of these parts, a man about sixty years of age, who looks
all fat and good-humour ; he is lodged in the centre of a large
town, quite a city. Senhor Porto said that we were fortunate in
finding him sober, as his normal condition is much the reverse.
DISASTROUS NEWS OF AMERICAN MISSION AT BAILUNDU.
July 16th — Bad news has come from Bailundu, to the effect
that the American missionaries have been robbed and turned
out of house and home.
igth. — Men who were sent to Bailundu informed us, on their
return, that they found the missionaries' houses in the hands of the
natives, but where the missionaries had gone, or what had become

1 10 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
of them, they could not learn. I cannot think of sitting here
when my brethren are thus in trouble, so start to-morrow to see
and hear for myself.
2 2nd.— Crossed the Kutato river, and reached the town of
Dungenugo, the son of the reigning king of Bailundu, who said
that it was entirely owing to the conduct of a European trade*
that the missionaries had left the country.
24th. — Passed many towns, the people of which brought out
dishes of maize beer for me and my men to drink. Two men
met me at some distance from Atinda to run my hammock into
the town ; they ran so fast that they broke the hammock-pole,
and instead of having a grand entrance into the town, I was
landed rolling in the dust just before the gate.
MISSION PREMISES WRECKED.
July 2$th. — Reached the town of Chikulo, the chief man in
the country at present, and had a long palaver with him and a few
of the headmen, through my interpreter, Jumbo. They had been
persuaded by B  that the little tins containing meat, etc.,
were full of fetish enchantments, intended by the missionaries
for the destruction of the Bailundu kingdom. The missionaries
had to flee, seemingly taking nothing but their wives and little
children. It was distressing to see all around the destruction
of valuable property. Books of all kinds, photographs, letters,
clothing, tins of sugar, tea, etc., were in every native's hands.
With all my energy I spoke out to these Bailundu people as to
the way in which they had permitted men to be turned out of
house and home who had come to them with a message of peace
from the true God ; they had treated them as they would not
treat their dogs.
Chikulo sent for B  , who tried at once to make friends
with me, but being in no gentle mood I brought him to the point,
and asked what charge he had against the Americans. "Oh,"
said he, " I thought they were Jews, and not Christian mission
aries!" He was compelled to explain matters to the natives,
and I asked Chikulo if he was satisfied ; to which he replied,
" Perfectly," adding that as B  had only been telling lies, he
himself was willing, if I would only say the word, to lay hands on
him there and then. I said I had come, not with any authority

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 111
or intention to punish B  , but to see justice done to my
friends, and that Chikulo must gather the missionaries' goods
together and keep them in safety until their return.
DESPOTIC POWER OF CHIEFS.
The despotic power of the chiefs makes all mission-work very
uncertain in Africa at present, except where law and order are
established and upheld, and therefore prayer for those "in
authority " in Africa is especially needed. Any whim or sudden
enmity of the chief, any fetish divination, or, as in this case, the
evil counsel of an interested trader, may lead to the overthrow of
years of work, and it may take a long time before it can be
resumed. Oh this occasion it was my most unexpected arrival
from the interior that led to an unusually speedy turn of the tide
in favour of the missionaries. Though Bailundu and Bihe" are
within the province of Benguella, Portuguese authority has not
yet very much influence there. In the far interior the perils
of missionaries are of course greater, but in the western half of
Africa things are in this respect much better than in the eastern
part. It may be well to give extracts from letters written to a
friend in England by Mr. Sanders, one of the missionaries expelled
at this time from Bailundu.
The first of these tells of the danger that began to threaten
the American mission before I left the Barotse valley.
EXPULSION THREATENED. " Bihe, April '8th, 1884.
" B  , the man who is reported to have tried to injure us from
the beginning has come here on business. It is reported that his real
object is our expulsion. But I can still say, 'By this I know that
Thou favourest me, because mine enemy has not triumphed over me.'
One of his charges against us before the Ovimbundu chiefs was, that
we had come through without passports from the Portuguese Govern
ment. Hence the chief of Bihe" construed our neglect as an insult to
him, and demanded twenty pieces of calico. Yesterday I went up to
him to explain that the government at Benguella had retained our
passports, but that I would send for them and let him see them if he
desired. As to giving him the calico, we simply refused. Meanwhile
he took occasion to declare that all our talk about having the word of
God, etc., was nonsense. Even this decided expression of his views
was a refreshing change, as so many of these people simply listened
to us, neither affirming nor denying. W. H. Sanders."

112 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
THREAT CARRIED OUT. "Benguella, August 8th.
"The West Central African Mission has been plundered, and we
have been expelled. This puts it bluntly. Ekwikwi, the chief of
Bailundu, sent a letter to our brethren there, ordering them to leave.
They took what steps they could to get the order changed, but failed.
Meanwhile letters reached us at Bihe" [where Mr. Sanders then was],
on'which I started for Bailundu. On the road I met the bearers of
other letters, calling upon all of us to go down as soon as possible,
and abandon such things as could not be brought. It seems that
Senhor B  , the trader, has so wrought upon the suspicions,
superstitions, and fears of the natives, by means of falsehoods, threats,
and promises, that they were led to desire to have us leave, lest by
giving us asylum they should get into trouble with the Portuguese
Government. We all believed that if one of us could get to the war
camp and see the chief in person all would be well (this camp was
about five days' journey from the mission station). At last, after many
delays, the people allowed me to go there. When I arrived, the chief
permitted me to deliver my message. In about two minutes, however,
they interrupted me with a storm of abuse. Each headman had a
complaint, which in every case amounted to the same thing ; namely,
that we had neglected to load them with gifts. Ekwikwi reproached
me bitterly with purposing to kill with fetish one who had always done
well by us. Every attempt at explanation was drowned by a fiercer
burst of rage and scolding. At last he closed the interview, which
continued about twenty minutes, with the following words : ' Get up
now, leave the camp, and sleep in the bush this night ; and do you
and your companions leave my country in four days from your arrival
at your village. If you do not, I will come down in person and make
war upon you. Y.ou are not my white man. • B  is my white man.
I do not desire you in my land. I want the powder-man, the gun
man, the whiskey-man.' W. H. Sanders."
In another letter Mr. Sanders writes :
" Before we could get our carriers to leave, Brother Stover's house
was completely plundered. At last we started, and went one or two
miles before nightfall. Next day we went to camp about nine miles
from our village. All the carriers here deserted ; the headman alone
remained. Most of the men had rifled their loads, leaving only books
and food."
They found, however, other carriers, chiefly children and
strangers to the country, and so were enabled to proceed to the
coast, the whole party numbering eight, and two children.

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 113
EVIL COUNSELS DEFEATED.
The following is a copy of a letter which I sent to Mr. Sanders
on reaching Bailundu, telling of the changed state of affairs, with
which he was unacquainted when he wrote as above from
Benguella : "¦Bailundu, July 25th.
"You will be somewhat surprised to get this letter dated from
Bailundu. A few words, however, will serve to explain. I am engaged
in the same work as you are, and have been for two years at the
Zambesi River, and have just come from there in company with
Senhor Porto, of Bihe". I sent off a letter at once to Bailundu, but
my messenger came back with my letter, and bad news as to the
missionaries. Not understanding what had become of you all, I
started at once with a few men, hoping that I might be of some
service to you, and brought a letter from Senhor Porto for the chief
of Bailundu. My heart was sad when I came and found things as
they are, and also because of the shameful conduct of the trader who
was the cause of your expulsion.
"Chikulo, at whose town I am lodging, said he was glad I had
come, as they were in a dilemma, and did not know what to do, or
whether the trader's words were true or false. I told him how indig
nant Senhor Porto was at their conduct, and said that unless the
missionaries were brought back at onqe, and all their goods restored
to them, it would be a serious matter in the eyes of the white chiefs.
He said it was his desire to bring you all back.
".Just then the trader's hammock came along. He was on his way
to Bihd. Chikulo called him in. I explained to him my errand here,
and asked him to say there and then what charge he had against the
Americans. I never saw a man appear more guilty as he muttered
out, ' I thought these men were Jews, and not Christian missionaries.'
I said he would have to make known his mistake to Chikulo and the
assembled headmen. He did so, and told them he was satisfied from
what I had said that these men were harmless.
" All the Bailundu present expressed loudly their indignation at the
way the trader had robbed them of their white men, who were their
friends. They put the entire blame upon the trader. All your scholars
gave me a warm welcome, bringing loads of books, etc., belonging to
you for my inspection. I told them to take care of them till your
return. The purport of this letter is to tell you in Chikulo's name to
come back to your houses and goods. The Bailundu have nothing
against you. If you should think fit to go on to Bihd, Senhor Porto
will welcome you heartily. He says that the old house of Baptista, at
Belmonte, is at your disposal. I also saw the chief of Bihd, who says
he is sorry you left the country, and hopes you will soon return.
1

1 14 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
" I sincerely hope to see the faces of some of you. I shall then
return to Belmonte for. my men and goods left there, and will again
start for Benguella, meanwhile 'holding the fort' at Bailundu until
your return. The devil is not to have it all his own way this time.
" F. S. Arnot."
Chikulo, after consulting with Ekwikwi's wife, decided that a
letter I had brought from Senhor Porto should be sent on to
Ekwikwi, the Bailundu chief. I then returned to Bihe', and on
the 29th September received a message from the chief asking me
to come to his camp. I reached Bailundu on the 5th October,
and next day set out for the war camp.
October nth. — -Arrived this morning at Ekwikwi's camp, which
is four days' journey from Bailundu proper. In the afternoon the
chief and his counsellors had a long discussion, and a letter was
dictated to Mr. Sanders, of the American Mission, and one to
Senhor Porto, to which all the company then present consented.
The letter to Mr. Sanders was an earnest request that he and the
other missionaries would return ; and to Senhor Porto Ekwikwi
gave an explanation of his strange conduct towards men who
had committed no crime, either against him personally, his people,
or his laws. During this time Mr. and Mrs. Sanders were plan
ning to reach their new station in Bihe by a different route, and
were very thankful to receive Ekwikwi's request that they would
return to Bailundu. MISSIONARIES AGAIN AT BAILUNDU.
October 23rd.— Met Mr. and Mrs. Sanders to-day at Bailundu,
and had a happy time with them. Their hearts are indeed in the
work here, and they mean to go on in the name of the Lord. It
was soul-stirring to see them and their little caravan wending
their way across the wooded hill to their old home at Bailundu,
having been robbed, plundered, forced to fly almost for life, but
coming back again undaunted.
SUPERSTITIONS OF THE OVIMBUNDU.
The Ovimbundu race inhabiting Bihe" and the country to the
west are most enterprising as traders and imitators of the
Portuguese. They seem, however, to retain tenaciously their
superstitions and fetish worship.

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 115
In Chikulo's yard there is a small, roughly-cut image, which, I
believe, represents the spirit of a forefather of his. One day
a man and woman came in and rushed up to this image, dancing,
howling, and foaming at the mouth, apparently mad. A group
gathered round and declared that the spirit of Chikulo's forefather
had taken possession of this man and woman, and was about
to speak through them. At last the " demon " began to grunt and
groan out to poor Chikulo, who was down on his knees, that
he must hold a hunt, the proceeds of which were to be given to
the people of his town; must kill an ox, provide so many
large pots of beer, and proclaim a grand feast and dance.
Furthermore, all this was to be done quickly. The poor old
man was thoroughly taken in, and in two days' time the hunt was
organized. Thus I find, as amongst the Barotse, that divining and
prophesying, with other religious and superstitious means,
are resorted to, in order to secure private ends, and to offer
sacrifice to the one common god — the belly. The more I see
of them, the more I am persuaded that they have no other god,
and this I tell them continually.
At another time a man came to Senhor Porto's to buy an ox.
He said that some time ago he had killed a relation by witchcraft
to possess himself ot some of his riches, and that now he
must sacrifice an ox to the dead man's spirit, which was troubling
him. This killing by witchcraft is a thing most sincerely believed
in ; and on hearing this man's cold-blooded confession of what
was at least the intent of his heart, it made me understand why
the Barotse put such demons into the fire.
Among the Ovimbundu, old and renowned witches are thrown
into some river, though almost every man will confess that he
practises witchcraft to avenge himself of wrong done, and to
punish his enemies. One common process is to boil together
certain fruits and roots, with which the wizard daubs his body, in
order to enlist the aid of the demons, and the decoction is then
thrown in the direction of the victim, or laid in his path, that he
may be brought under the bewitching spell.
These West Africans have not that attachment to other
members ot their own tribe which is seen among the Zulu, the
Bechuana, and even the Zambesi tribes, where each man is

n 6 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
his neighbour's brother. Here they live to bite and devour
one another. The most trivial mistake or breach of etiquette is
a crime, and has to be paid for dearly. A man who accidentally
knocked over a small pot of fat was fined thirty shillings' worth
of beeswax. A stranger passing through the country is liable to
be entrapped into paying heavy fines. If a slave steals, say
a few ears of corn out of a garden, he is seized, and if not
redeemed by his master's paying a large compensation, he is
at once sold. FUNERAL CEREMONIES.
Death is surrounded by many strange and absurd superstitions.
It is considered essential that a man should die in his own
country, if not in his own town. On the way to Bailundu,
shortly after leaving Bihe' territory, I met some men running
at great speed, carrying a sick man tied to a pole, in order that he
might die in his own country. I tried to stop them, but they
were running as fast as their burden would allow them down
a steep rocky hill. By the sick man's convulsive movements
I could see that he was in great pain, perhaps in his death throes,
hence the great haste. If a Bailundu man dies in Bihe", the
Bihe people have to pay the Bailundu heavily for the shameful
conduct of the Bihe demons in killing a stranger, and vice versa.
When a man dies at home his body is placed on a rude table,
and his friends meet for days round the corpse, drinking, eating,
shouting, and singing, until the body begins actually to fall to
pieces. Then the body is tied in a faggot of poles and carried
on men's shoulders up and down some open space, followed
by doctors and drummers. The doctors demand of the dead
man the cause of his death, whether by poison or witchcraft, and
if by the latter, who was the witch ? Most of the deaths I have
known of in negro-land were from pulmonary diseases, but all
were set down to witchcraft. The jerking of the bier to and fro,
causing the men bearing it to stumble hither and thither, is taken
as the dead man's answer ; thus, as in the case of spirit-rapping
at home, the reply is spelled out. The result of this enquiry is
implicitly believed in, and, if the case demands it, the witch is
drowned. There might be some reason for their superstition if tlTfe dead
body were laid upon the ground and allowed to jerk itself; but

1884.] From tJte Zambesi to Benguella. 117
to put the corpse on the shoulders of six drunken men, and
say that the jerking and stumbling are caused by the inanimate
body, is so thoroughly ridiculous that one cannot imagine how it
ever entered the minds of men to judge and condemn their
fellow-creatures by such a process as this. Compared with it the
Barotse boiling-water ordeal is reasonable.
' After all these knotty points are settled the poor man gets
a decent burial, but chiefs and great men do not get to rest so
soon. Their bodies have been kept above ground two years
after death. When a chief dies they at first say that he is
sick or asleep, and all the business of the state is conducted by a
man who sits in a hut beside the dead body.
A DEAD CHIEF'S SPIRIT DISSATISFIED.
The following is a graphic description given by Mr. Sanders of
a ceremony witnessed by him in connection with the exhuming
and reburial of the bones of a chief:
" On Saturday, May 9th, I went up to the ombala (king's residence),
where they were engaged in the funeral rites of Bonge, who was chief
several years ago. Since his time Sacisende, Vasovava, Ekongo, and
Ekwikwi have ' mounted the stool.' Sacisende rebelled against Bonge,
and when the latter saw that he had lost his power, he fled, ' instead
of killing himself like a man.' Hence he was not buried in the
a-kokoto, or place of sepulchre of the kings. These people think that
their recent failure to get plunder was due to the wrath of this dead
Bonge about his burial ; so they brought the box with his bones and
put him with the other rulers. As it was evidently improper that two
kings should be in the royal quarters at once, Ekwikwi moved to one
corner of the ombala, where he was to remain till the next day.
"The rites were similar to those practised on a smaller scale at
most of their funerals. The box was hung on a pole carried by two
men, and, as the assembled people danced and sang, the carriers
were supposed to go wherever the spirit of Bonge moved them. I
told Chitwi, who was with me, that it was nonsense to think it was
the spirit that moved the pole. But he declared that it was the spirit,
and said that when they have another funeral at Chilume they will
let me take one end of the pole, and then I shall be convinced and
agree with them. I said that as soon as there shall be another
missionary to take the other end of the pole, I shall be very glad to
try the experiment.
"After a good deal of singing and dancing, Bonge ran the end of
the pole into a fence that was in his way to the graveyard of the

118 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
kings, and they immediately tore a gap for him to pass. Then there
was a scramble for the flesh of an ox that had been sacrificed to him.
The young men, being the nimblest, got the lion's share, which
seemed to grieve greatly a few of the elders. In the excitement of
the moment each thought of the meat, but no one of the hide, which
should have been taken off and buried with the remains. Hence the
old men who had charge of the ceremonies became irate, and between
it all they nearly had a free fight. Finally Bonge ran the pole into
the fence that encloses the burial-place, so they again made a gap and
sent him in." CHARMS AGAINST EVIL FETISHES.
The people have a great fear of death, which they do not seem
to look upon as a certainty, and the natural end of life — at least,
to say so in conversation gives offence. They would fain believe
that death is a mishap, an evil brought about by fetish agencies ;
but for which, man would be immortal. Consequently, all their
so-called religious observances and charms are meant to
counteract the influence of these evil fetishes by other fetishes.
Before starting on a journey a man will spend perhaps a fortnight
in preparing charms to overcome evils by the way, and to enable
him to destroy his enemies. If he be a trader, he desires to find
favour in the eyes of chiefs and a liberal price for his goods.
As there is no limit to a man's fears, superstitions, avarice, or
hatred of his enemies, so there is no limit to the number of his
charms; and at the end of his journey he finds himself loaded
with such things, sewn into belts and hung in little horns round
his neck.
As to the articles used in the composition of charms, I may
say that everything under the sun is used. I have been told
here that they can turn the hills into water with some of them,
can make an ox impervious to bullet or spear, can create a living
lion out of the skin of a dead one, and can bring death or sick
ness upon anyone.
Many half-castes and Portuguese believe strongly in the charms
of the Ovimbundu tribes ; but on questioning them closely as to
certain of the mysterious things alleged to be done, I always find
that the thing has happened in the night-time, and that the
fetish doctors will not " cast " their charms or work miracles at
any other time. How close the connection between spiritual
and literal darkness !

1884] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 119
"CHRISTIAN RELICS."
In conversation with the people of Bihe" about the one true
God, they profess to believe in His existence, and say that there
is and must be a great Spirit over and above all, whom they call
Suku, but that they do not know him. They do not appear in
any way to connect " Suku " with the things which are daily
occurring around them. I cannot even say that they truly
believe him to be a universal God, for they always speak of the
white man as being under a separate set of gods and spirits from
themselves. Judging according to human judgment, I should say that the
missionary of the gospel would find the ground here very hard
indeed. Besides the mass of superstition, which surpasses any
thing I ever heard of in Africa, there have been for nearly two
centuries many evil and brutalising influences working upon the
people, and few humanising ones. During all this time rum and
the slave trade have had full scope. For the greater part
of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries there were many
Roman Catholic missionaries at work all along the west'
coast, and for some little way into the interior; but the only
remaining traces of them or their work are a few "Christian
relics " added to the heap of native charms, and, here and there,
a wooden cross standing at the head of some pagan's grave,
sharing the ground with fantastic heathen images and symbols.
Many thoughts come into one's mind on looking upon such a
scene of confusion.
Only the one confident assurance that there is a God who
liveth could strengthen the heart of any servant of the Lord
coming to this part. AFRICAN LANGUAGES.
The languages, though of course perplexing to a stranger, are
undoubtedly easy, both in construction and pronunciation.
Speaking as they do in fidelity to the natural law of euphony,
they are wonderfully accurate. When reducing the languages to
a written form, missionaries find that if they can but discover any
grammatical rule it has almost no exceptions.
Atrican languages are not to be learned at all correctly by
direct conversation with the natives. They are more accurately

120 Seven Years in Central Africa. , [Oct.
acquired by constantly listening to their conversation one with
another. Their manner of conversing with a European is absurd
and very misleading. Not only do they distort their own language
greatly, but they are constantly using outlandish sounds, which
they think belong to the white man's tongue, and which they in
their smartness have picked up.
Again, if a European wishes to be intelligible to the raw native
who has not been tutored to understand the sounds of strange
tongues, he must remember that African languages are composed
not only of sounds, but of accentuated sounds. If he does not
pay the closest attention to this, though he may be able to speak
fluently to the natives in a white man's store or town, he will
require a person to interpret his words to a company of raw
villagers. The Bushman's language goes to an extreme in this
respect; certain sounds and clicks accented differently, pitched
in a higher or lower key, shrill or deep-sounding, have all their
different meanings ; their language is consequently very musical.
To hear the little children speaking and laughing in their play is
often like listening to the tinkling of a musical-box.
PLANS FOR REACHING THE INTERIOR.
There are two plans before me for returning to the interior.
(i) To return to the Barotse or to the Bakuti on the Cuchibi
river. (2) To visit the Garenganze, living to the north of. and
adjoining the Barotse, under the chief Msidi. They are a rice-
growing people, which is an advantage ; the country is reported
to be healthy, and the road comparatively safe. By turning south
I could then reach Liwanika's "dogs," and should be able to
fulfil my promise of re-visiting the Barotse. I have as my
personal attendant an excellent interpreter, who knows the
languages and people well. This would be quite a new adventure,
but the Arab and west-coast dealers who have visited the
Garenganze and influenced them for evil, will probably have
prejudiced them against European visitors.
REQUIREMENTS OF WORK IN AFRICA.
October 16th. — I do not think there is anything so essential to
real service for God in a wholly heathen country as an entire
separation and devotion to the work, so that even isolation often

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 121
has its advantages. I have found that one's time cannot be
divided and laid out beforehand as at home. Amongst the
Barotse I have risen to a day, say of writing, but it turned out to
be an all-day meeting. At festival seasons at Lealui crowds of
people used to come in from all the country round ; at such times
it was, from morning light until midnight, one constant stream of
people passing through my house, all curious to see, some to
hear, and some wanting to speak of what had been said on a
former visit.
Again, on making short trips amongst the villages I found the
press of work almost unbearable at times, from pure lack of
strength. The work is trying, but all-engrossing, and it needs
one to be wholly free from all temporal things. At home the
earnest stteet-preacher may gather a few little children around
him after much noise and singing ; but in heathen Africa one is
sometimes glad, in coming up to a village, to hide one's self.
Everything is laid aside ; the child toddles out to the field to
call its mother; the hunters return and call in their dogs; and
the cattle are driven to their enclosures, that the herdsmen may
come and listen to the white man's words. The more isolated
and ignorant the people the more eager they are. Wherever I
was able to make the character of my errand known, their willing
ness, their intelligent enquiry, their excitement even, quite wore
me out.
I expected to have been back to such precious work by
this time, but the Good Shepherd knows what is best for His
sheep. Meanwhile I have been getting rid of some of my fever
legacies. Ague now seems to be a thing of the past. My spleen,
which was so much swollen that I could not lie with comfort in
any position, is now almost reduced to its proper condition: My
body has in every way picked up in this fine healthy country.
ARRIVAL OF AN EMBASSY FROM GARENGANZE.
I thought of waiting at Bailundu until Senhor Porto came along,
but learning that he would be delayed for some days in building
a bridge, I went on. On the way I met a company from the far
interior. They were not different from the rest of the people,
but in my present state of mind they were naturally of great
interest to me. They were from the chief Msidi, of Garenganze,

122 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
and had been sent with a letter to the king's brother-in-law, who
lives at Chivula. A few hours brought me to Ohonjo, and there
I met the royal brother-in-law, Coimbra, a half-caste, who read to
me the letter just received from Msidi. It was dated this year,
was written in a wretched sort of Portuguese, possibly by some
half-taught black, and contained an earnest appeal that white men
might come to Garenganze. I looked with amazement on the
piece of rude, well-travelled paper. Of course it was as traders
that he wanted white men, but I felt I had something even better
than good trade, which, if Msidi could only comprehend, he
would gladly receive. The brother-in-law was delighted to hear
of my proposal to go thither, and sent for a black lanky slave
from that part; he knew exactly the place where Livingstone
died, at Ilala, <by Lake Bangweolo. I may yet ge£ this man
to go with me, but the guide I have already employed knows
all the country. THOUGHTS AS TO FUTURE PATH.
Let us look up and take courage ; the Lord reigneth. Surely
He has taken many ways to show me from the first His desire to
guide me ; He comes down to our weak faith, as He did in
Gideon's case, and repeats the signs until we are filled with
shame at our blindness and tardiness. I think it is now clear
that I must seek another way to the Batoka, Liwanika's Barotse
"dogs"; in this case the Lord may feed the dogs before the
"children." I shall be at liberty, so far as I can learn, to come as near to
the Barotse as possible, and yet remain outside their sway ; and
were I to go down among them at any time, I should, humanly
speaking, suffer no harm, having so many friends amongst them.
I might be able, by going between both, to unite these two great
countries, and secure a way for others through the Barotse to
the north, which at present, through jealousy, is shut.
I am told that Garenganze is as healthy as Bailundu ; if so,
there is no fever there ; one might hope to live, and not merely
exist. I shall make a particular request to each chief by the way
to have a young man ready to run with my letters as they come
from the interior or the coast, and think this plan would work in
time of peace. Native news in this way flies like the wind, and

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 123
why not my letters ? The only question would be the amount of
pay. The governor of Benguella took the trouble to write to Senhor
Porto to take care of me, and bring me safely to the coast.
Perhaps because of the trouble the Americans had at Bailundu,
the governor feared that I, being English, might suffer from the
Bailundu, and bring down an English inquisition upon him.
Senhor Porto is my guardian in the meantime, and although I
have been running about to my heart's content, I fear- he woujd
consider me ungrateful were I to go on to Benguella before
him, so I must wait here for a couple of days, as he has been
detained on the road. Strange that patience towards the end of
a journey is far harder than patience at the beginning. Staying
a whole week here, within three days or so of the coast, seems
intolerable. A Portuguese called to-day, and after talking for some time
he remarked that at Benguella they were expecting one " Padre
Arnot " from the east-coast. He knew that I had come from the
east, but could not recognise the Padre. I heard him laughing
when told that / was the Padre.
True and faithful service is not thrown away, as the following
shows : Mr. W. W. Bagster, now gone home, gave three years
ago a Testament to Coimbra, with whom I am staying, the
reading of which touched him, and Mr. Sanders has since had
long talks with him. - Coimbra is anxious about his soul.
Although I had not been speaking to him in a personal way,
he took down his Testament this morning and turned to Mark
x. 29, saying to me, "This is my trouble." He could not leave
wives, children, houses, and all. I told him that the Lord asked
him not to leave anything, but to receive; and that when God's
love filled his heart, he would know by the power of love how to
serve Him. He said that he was greatly relieved, and that his
way seemed more clear; he did not desire to live any longer
with more than one wife, but he could not turn into the fields
those who were the mothers of his children, nor put away his
children. The good Lord will not quench the smoking flax.
November gth. — At Catumbella at last. Waiting for Senhor
Porto; a sharp attack of dysentery detained me. I ate too
freely of bananas.

124 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
BENGUELLA.
Benguella, November nth. — Mr. Walter, of the American
Board Mission,* who is stationed here as business man for the
Mission, has kindly offered to help me, and through him I can
get trade articles at lower prices.
December glh.— Benguella is a very quiet, unbusiness-like
place. The custom-house duties are very heavy ; they average
25 per cent, on everything, and this on the value of goods here,
not on invoice value, so that all goods imported are of necessity
expensive. I should say that the place is unhealthy ; the Por
tuguese, at least, consider it so, as the most of their " degradadors"
(convicts) are sent here, and all government officials while in
office here, are reckoned as serving double time. It is not so at
Loando. It seems as if the sea had thrown up a sand dyke, forming the
present shore; much of the country inside appears to be at a
level lower than the sea ; consequently it has no drainage.
Fortunately, little rain falls ; even now, though it is the rainy
season, green spots are only to be seen in a few hollows. The
heat is very great, but every afternoon a fresh breeze comes off
the sea, which makes the evenings pleasant. I am in the best of
health. May the Lord be pleased to look upon my work for His name's
sake, and may I be in His hands like soft clay, impressible.
Surely the one thing needful for perfect service is that we be
susceptible to His sympathies and to the guidings of His Spirit.
God will not guide and lead us into His work unless we first
have hearts in sympathy with Him as to that work. So let us
hang and wait upon God, that we may go forth as men " driven
of the Spirit." EXPECTATION OF FELLOW-LABOURERS.
I had now to consider seriously the advisability of returning to
the interior alone, in case of no one coming forward to join me.
On that subject I then wrote my impressions :
I have a growing conviction that some one or two are being
prepared for the work here, but any one will not do ; excuse my
* American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ; commonly
called "American Board." Mr. Walter has since left/Africa.

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 125
saying so. Africa is a very trying country in every sense of the
word. It is not always the bright, smart, active man who does
for Africa ; for such a man to find himself in the hands of some
miserable creatures, and actually made a plaything of by them,
would often be utterly unbearable. To find that when he is
planning to make a few days' quicker march, his men are planning
a few days' extra slow march; to have to deal with men who,
directly they think they have become indispensable, delight to
exercise the most cruel tyranny ; to find one's self surrounded by
lip-friends only, whose hearts are like drawn swords, as a general
rule — these are discoveries so utterly foreign to first impressions
of the negro races that the hearts of many sink under them. The
white man who comes to Africa thinks, as a rule, that the negro
looks up to him as an essentially superior being; but let him
hear them discussing round their camp fires, as I have often
done when supposed by them to be lying asleep, and he will
think differently. Is there a race under the sun which does not
in its heart of hearts believe " We are the people "?
In thinking of journeying alone, friends at home interested
in this pioneer work will see that it is. not an undue hastening on
my part. I must get my goods up to Bihe" in time for a final
start this dry season, so as to reach and cross the Lovale flats,
near the sources of the Zambesi, before they are flooded. Other
wise the journey would be much more difficult.
DECIDE TO GO TO GARENGANZE.
I shall, God willing, first make for those high ranges of
mountains which are marked in some maps just above the
Barotse country, and shall engage carriers — some I have already
partly engaged — for Msidi's town, which is among the hills in
the country called, in the interior, the Garenganze.
From the first I was very desirous of going at least in that
direction, but was prevented, no doubt for a wise purpose, from
going beyond the immediate neighbourhood of the Zambesi
River, as the Barotse do not want any " good things '' to go to
the tribes under their sway.
I have seen large companies of natives from that part, and
have many times conversed with them. From native sources
in the interior, I learn that the Garenganze is one of the most

126 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
densely-populated districts of Central Africa. The people there
are famed for the abundance of their corn, rice, sugar-cane, etc.,
and they work large copper-mines, cleansing and smelting the
copper out of the ore in a very perfect way, of which I have seen
many samples. The question, whether I should merely go on a
visit to the chief, asking his permission to return, or whether
I should go prepared to settle, should the way be open, is
one difficult to decide.
If the simple invitation of the chief of the country were the
only thing desired, that might be obtained by sending a
messenger ; but nothing counts like a personal visit.
I therefore purpose to go to the Garenganze, hoping, with
God's help, to get the permission, not only of the chief and
headmen, but also of the people, to remain among them. It is
more and more evident to me that much Christian diplomacy is
required for the establishment and carrying on of African mission
work. The people are not so many poor, intelligent monkeys ;
and this I have learned, that, fond as they are of presents, they
are not to be bought by money. It may, however, be different with
those on the coast.
Going merely as a visitor will not prevent my remaining for
one or two years. It requires all that time in Africa ere the
people will venture to say that they know you.
If friends at home could just get one glimpse of the burning
need here, the open sore, and the willingness withal to hear, they
would sympathise with me a little in my desire to remain as long
as possible and at all cost, providing at the same time all things
honestly, and receiving "nothing from the Gentiles;" for the
moment one begins to do so, he is branded by his enemies as
" an eater-up of the people." The work of carrying the gospel
to Africa's millions is going on, for it is the Lord's work, and
it will go on in spite of any one of us ; but time is passing, and
I would say to myself and to others, Let us in all our service
be prompt. Let us ever have our loins girt for the ready, speedy
carrying out of the will of our Lord.
THE AFRICAN PLATEAU.
Before continuing my diary of the return journey from Benguella
to Bihe" it may be well to say something about the general form

1884.] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 127
of the country. The remarkable configuration of the African
continent as a whole is now pretty well understood, the comparison
ot its shape to that of an inverted dish conveying a very good
idea of it. The flat coast, corresponding to the lip of the dish,
varies in width in different parts of the coast. Near Benguella
this low-lying part is comparatively narrow, and the coast there is
consequently not so unhealthy as where there is a great extent
of lowland. The African plateau is well represented in the
frontispiece, an illustration reproduced from a photograph. The
foreground is the "littoral" or shore land, through which flows
the river Catumbella. Catumbella is a town on the west coast,
very near Benguella, and forms the . first stage of the inland
journey. There is another and higher tableland, which is the real
plateau, some miles further from the coast, as shown in the large
map. It is owing to the elevation of the land in the interior of Africa
that the climate is usually cooler than we should expect if we
merely judged by degrees of latitude. But when away from the
coast one is apt to forget that the elevation is so great. Though
the interior is called a plateau, there are, of course, considerable
diversities in the surface — high mountains, deep lakes, and
gradually-descending rivers. But it is always helpful to bear in
mind the general formation of the continent. Mr. Fay, one of
the American missionaries in the Benguella district, has graphically
described the ascent from Benguella to the high laiid and on to
Bihe", and I am glad to avail myself of his account, taken from an
American missionary periodical.
THE ASCENT FROM BENGUELLA.
" In making the journey from Benguella to the interior the
traveller beholds many striking and beautiful varieties of scenery.
From the level, sandy road between Benguella and Catumbella
he passes to rough and rocky mountain paths. Near to the coast
there is the barren desert ; further on much beautiful tropical
scenery ; then, on the mountain ranges, he comes into the familiar
temperate zone.
"As you leave Catumbella the road leads at once up the
hillside, and your camp for the night may be on the Ekongo,
the rocky desert that separates the coast from the fertile lands

128 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
beyond. The next day Esupwa, through which runs the
Catumbella River, may be reached in time for dinner, after which
the loads are rearranged, water-gourds filled, and the caravan files
up the mountain side through a wild and beautiful canon. Late
in the afternoon a camp is reached not far from the base of
Mount Losingi. As the water here is bad, the traveller may
rejoice if the men have not used up his supply brought from the
river below. With the morning light the men file out of camp
with their loads, and begin the remaining climb to the top of this
range, and descend into the valley of the Kuvali, in Chisanje.
" Here for the first time we meet signs of human habitations.
At the market-place by the roadside we buy bananas and such
vegetables as we can find. The men exchange needles, cloth,
salt, and gunpowder, for meal, native beer, and meat. The
excitement and gesticulations at one of these roadside markets
would be worthy of Wall Street.
" On the morrow, crossing the Kuvali twice, the way leads
through the most tropical portion of our journey, the path passing
for some distance along the river banks under an archway of
hanging vines and creepers. Beyond this, on each side of the
road, mountains of solid rock, like huge boulders, rise a thousand
feet above us. As we come to the next climb we pass out of the
tropics. We can almost see the line of demarcation, where we
leave the baobab and other tropical trees, and meet the familiar
foliage of the temperate zone. Reaching the top of these hills
we camp near Olombingo, a mountain that rises far above
us, and forms twin peaks, giving it the name of ' the horns.'
From Chisanje to Ngaliatena the land near the road is not
inhabited, as far as we can learn. From Olombingo to Senhor
Coimbra's the road passes over much level ground, there being
only a slight rise between the two places. At the Bailombo
River the crossing in the wet season is usually made by a bridge,
at which there is a scene of wildest confusion; for the bridge-
men take toll, and each one tries to get over with his friends.
Some miles beyond we pass ,the residence of Senhor Coimbra,
who so kindly cared for the missionaries when they were driven
out of Bailundu, and enter camp a few miles beyond his place.
As the climb over Mount Elonga is a long and hard one, the
men are up and off betimes. On this march we pass some

1884.] From tlie Zambesi to Benguella. 129
rugged places, and climb over two thousand feet to cross the
lowest spur of Elonga.
"The journey from this place to Bailundu is a most beautiful
one, the mountains rising on every side and giving great beauty
and variety to the picture. On our first journey inland, as we
passed through the gap in the mountains of Humbi, the carriers
joyfully pointed us to a little round mountain far in the distance,
which they said was the capital of their country. By two hard
marches, in which we pass down into the beautiful valley in which
Bailundu lies, and from which the Keve rises, we reach the
mission village, south-east of the ombala of king Ekwikwi. The
valley stretches on beyond, almost to Chikuma, to which place
there is a rise of four or five hundred feet. Beyond that there
is only a slight rise to Chipongi, the capital of Bihe'.
" The road to Bihe" takes us through some of the most thickly-
populated places I have seen in Africa, with villages on every
side^. When Bailundu is left, we enter a most interesting section
in regard to the waterways. We have left the feeders of the
Keve running north-west to the ocean, and within less than ten
miles of these, to the south, rise the headwaters of the Kunene.
This, running south-west, empties into the ocean several hundred
miles south of the mouth of the Keve. A few miles to the east
we reach the feeders of the Kutato, which, running north, enters
the Kwanza. Less than ten miles beyond the Mbale we reach
the Kuchi, which runs south-east into Kovongo. Hardly five
miles further, brooks are crossed that feed the Kukema, which,
after making a long detour to the south-east, turns north-east and
empties into the Kwanza, thus reaching the ocean far to the north
west." RETURN TO BIH£
January 27th, 1885. — I started this morning on my return
journey to Bihe" with twenty-five porters. They are all in good
spirits, and seem to be quite a respectable lot. Slept one night
at Catumbella with the agent of a Dutch house ; and after
crossing about twenty miles of rough country, I reached the foot
of the Esupwa pass. The road winds through very rugged places,
between large boulders with high mountains on either side. We
reached the top of this rugged ascent on February 2nd, and
camped by the Olombingo Hill, the double top of which is quite

130 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
a landmark for many miles east and west. I had a little tent
with me which I made during my stay at Benguella, and I found
that an extra inner lining of blue calico added greatly to my
comfort. February 4th. — We reached Chivulu, where there is an inde
pendent native ruler. As I had to communicate with his town, I
sent him a present of fifteen yards of calico, which was accepted.
At Chivanda, a little further on, another independent ruler also
accepted a similar present.
8th. — Arrived at Ohumbe, on the borders of the Bailundu
country. STAY AT BAILUNDU.
Most of my men belonged to this district, so I had to remain
here as their guest for some days. They took me to their village,
on the top of a high hill overlooking an immense stretch of
country, and entertained me to the best of their ability with fowls,
goats, and meal. Too much of such kindness, however, was
rather embarrassing, as I was anxious to proceed on my journey
to Bihe; so on the 10th I succeeded with much difficulty in
arousing my porters out of their houses, and managed to make
a short march in the afternoon. Two days brought me to
Chilume, where I found Mr. and Mrs. Sanders in good spirits.
Here I paid off my Ohumbe men, intending to collect a fresh
company of porters to take me on to Bihe; but I did not get
away from Bailundu until March 6th, and arrived at Belmonte,
Bihe, on the 10th.
The journey had been so far a pleasant one, though many of
the rivers were much swollen. On one occasion, on crossing one
of them on the shoulders of one of my men, I looked down into
the clear water, when about halfway across, and saw to my
surprise that the man was balancing himself on a fallen tree, about
the thickness of a person's arm, which appeared to form part of a
submerged bridge over the river. My position was so ridiculous,
and I so shook with laughter, that the man began to sway about,
and finally losing his balance, we were both plunged into the
river, with the sunken tree between us. He stupidly held on to
my left foot so tenaciously that, but for a kick from my other, he
might have drowned me. By swimming I was able to reach the
other side safely. . <

1885,] From the Zambesi to Benguella. 131
Having stored my goods in Senhor Porto's house, I invited a
few headmen in Bihe' to visit me at Belmonte, where I told them
of my desire to proceed to the interior. Calling on Chipongi,
the Bihe chief, I also informed him. He was very friendly, and
insisted on my remaining at his town for the night, and sent me
away next morning accompanied by two of his own men, who
brought a good fat pig as his present to me.
TO THE COAST AGAIN — RECEIVE LETTERS.
As I hoped to receive letters from home, and then to purchase
goods for the inland journey, I started again for the coast ; and
on March 27th, when within eight days' journey of Benguella, I
met the mail carriers. They delivered to me a packet of letters ;
the first that I had received since leaving the Barotse valley, as
hitherto all had been sent via. Natal.
From many friends I received hearty expressions of encourage
ment in regard to my purpose of again returning into the interior,
as well as kindly warnings against departing from what should be
the one true aim and object of my travelling; namely, to make
Christ known. Upon reaching Benguella I found that many
useful packages had been forwarded to me, including two
Westley- Richard carbines, clothing, cotton cloth, and a few
books. I had some busy days at the coast, preparing for the
company of carriers I expected from Bailundu. Calico was the
chief article required for barter in the interior ; but I also took
beads, a little powder and lead, about 100 pounds of ship
biscuits, some tea, coffee, and sugar.
The following reply was written at that time :
April 8th, 1885. — In yours of January 30th, you speak of two
points, about which you are exercised, in connection with my work
in Africa. I could not think of starting on such a journey as is
before me, planning to return within a certain time, or intending
to move about in an aimless manner. My earnest hope and
prayer to God is, that He will lead me among a people for whom
He has a present message. To a great extent my work may
only be preparing for others to enter in. Three years ago, while
at the Zambesi, I had no other desire than to remain there. My
ways, however, are in God's hands. I am still ready to go back
again to the Barotse if I get the slightest indication that the field

132 Seven Years in Central Africa. [April, 1885.
is open there, but it seems as if it were not. This Garenganze
route appears to be the one for my return into the interior,
and I start on it with joy and gladness, not knowing that I shall
ever reach that place, nor what may be found for me to do by the
way. I can say honestly that I have no plan to follow out, but
am fully persuaded that it is necessary to remain in some place,
so that one's message may be rightly known and understood.
Whether that place be the Garenganze, or somewhere short of it,
God knoweth. I trust He will guide me, and I earnestly entreat
special prayer for this.
Ere you receive this letter I hope to have left Benguella. I
have enough, according to human foresight, to provide all things
honestly, and all things necessary, for two years to come. For
this I heartily thank our God. May I hold all as His, seeking
grace to spend every yard of calico to profit, and to His
glory. I purpose starting from Bihe" with about forty loads — a
very small caravan for Africa, as the usual number of carriers
is about 200 or 300.

A Typical Carrier.

IV.
jrtom benguella to (Sarenganje.
(June, 1885, to February, 1886.)
Confidence in again Setting Out — Leave Benguella for Garenganze — Exercise
of Patience — Labours of Americans in Africa — The Bihe Chief gives me
" The Road " — My Lost Boy, Kaukashia — A Woman's Cruelty — A Poor
Start — An Ocean of Land — Kapoko— A Helper Strangely Provided — The
Quanza Crossed — The Valoimbe — The Chibokwe — African Camps — Daily
Routine — Carriers Refractory — Sumbula's Generosity — Kangombe — Tribes
East of Bihe — The Kifumadshe Flat — Lunda Country — A Friend of
Livingstone's — Army Ants — Nana Kandundu, a Female Chief — Pressed
by Hunger — A Merciful Supply — The Lualaba River — Death of Kasoma's
Wife — Molenga — Journey Ended.
CONFIDENCE IN AGAIN SETTING OUT.
June 2nd. — In taking farewell of the coast once more, many
thoughts of all across the ocean occupy me, and I feel as if I
were leaving you all again. But with God's help I can say,
these things do not move me. Indeed, never have I felt such a
strong desire to be back again to my happy life and work in
the distant parts of this country. Until the last Liverpool steamer
came in, two weeks ago, I had a silent hope that someone might
yet come to join me in this journey. Loth as I am to invite, or
even to encourage anyone to do so, I firmly believe that the right
person will come in the right time. The longer I wait, and the
more I cast the matter entirely upon God, the more assurance
I get of His perfect ordering, and the more strength and joy
He gives me in my position here. His gentleness towards me,
His constant care and provision at every turn of the way, have
helped me better to know Him who calleth us not servants,
but friends, and maketh known to us the things that He doeth
and hath.

134 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
LEAVE BENGUELLA FOR GARENGANZE.
On the 3rd June I left Benguella, and the journey from the
coast to Bailundu was uneventful. There I met with a native
trader, who was able to give me a few more particulars concerning
the Garenganze country. The capital he described as extending over
eight miles, and he confirmed what I had heard as to food being"
plentiful. My heart is full of confidence in Him who can so
persuade that none can dissuade.
Delays again occurred at Bailundu, and porters had to be
changed. Time was not lost, however, for I profited not a little
in the company of Mr. and Mrs. Sanders, who assisted me in my
studies of the Umbundu language.
From Bailundu I wrote thus to a friend on the matter of
delays and vexations peculiar to life and travel in Africa :
July gth, 1885. — It is now a year since I came west to these
parts. Then I hoped, long ere this, to have been back again in
the interior, but even yet my steps are slow. Does this not make
plans seem very feeble and uncertain things ? How slow we are
in learning that " the race is not to the swift, nor the battle to
the strong ! " Until the later walks of life are reached, few on
earth seem to learn much of Proverbs xvi. 9, "A man's heart
deviseth his way; but God directeth his steps."
As to the future, if the Lord should direct any brother to come
out and join me, it would entirely change my outlook ; for instead
of thinking of returning to England, I should consider it my
glorious privilege to settle down at once in the interior. If the
right man is forthcoming, let him proceed to Bihe' next year,
leaving Europe in May or June, after having learned something
of Portuguese, if possible at Lisbon. Should it be advisable, I
would not grudge going out as far as Bihe" with a caravan of
Garenganze men, and would expect him to be ready to start off
without any delay, unless it were to go down to the coast for a
supply of trade articles. But if I could get one or two careful
old natives to do this service, I should think it best not to leave
the field, but would send written instructions as to the articles
needed. Mr. Sanders has promised to give every assistance,
and is willing to see any brother across the Quanza river. Though
willing to adopt either course, I incline to the latter ; if two could
come tosrether from home, so much the better. I shall not be

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 135
likely to hear from you in reply to this, but, if the Lord will,
I shall either communicate by messengers with Bihe and the
coast, or go out so far, early in 1887, expecting to find some one.
I don't think that this is pressing the matter too strongly or
anticipating too much, seeing that my last home news tends that
way. EXERCISE OF PATIENCE.
Belmonte, Bihe, August 27th. — On my arrival here I at once
proceeded to call upon old acquaintances, and made proposals
and offers in all directions for carriers.
30th. — This morning a letter came from Chipongi, the chief,
wanting more presents. I sent him a shawl and a shirt. In his
letter he says I can proceed on my journey after he returns from
an antelope hunt. The begging of these chiefs causes a most
uncomfortable strain on one. It is the bane of travelling in
Africa ; still, one must get on, and it is necessary to carry
supplies of some sort.
September 16th. — My carriers give me nothing but disappoint
ment. A few who have offered their services are so utterly
unreasonable in their demands, that it is evident they have no
intention of going with me.
Nothing is lost by these delays ; all is conscious gain. I
think labourers, or intending labourers in Africa, ought to take
much heed to these words, "Ye have need of patience." It
seems at . times as if everything was at a dead-lock, and every
one around in a sound slumber. At last a little rustling is heard,
and after a while a move is made ; but so surely as a halt occurs,
all relax into profound inaction. I have been busy negociating
with carriers all this month ; hundreds say they are willing to go.
I only want thirty, and yet it takes weeks and even months to
get them up to the carrying-point ; still, they do come, and I got
my fifteenth load tied up to-day.
I have been noticing lately in the Scriptures a double need of
patience; one is "patience of hope" (1 Thess. i. 3, also in James
v.) ; the other is patience in work — " patient continuance in well
doing." (Rom. ii. 7.) This "patience" has, I believe, a deeper
meaning than appears at first sight ; it includes submissive
obedience. By the introduction of submission to God into the
otherwise trying details of service, patience is perfected. To

136 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept.
have to wait a whole month talking over and settling a matter
which could be disposed of with half-an-hour's common-sense, is
in itself trying; but if the Lord, my Master, my Saviour, bade
me wait a month, then surely it would only be blessing and profit
that He had portioned out for me.
It is well at such times to garrison ourselves against the possi
bility of being carried away with a feeling of restlessness which
so much waiting and disappointment produces. I found great
help in portioning out my days, and by giving the best part —
the morning and early forenoon — to the prayerful study*of the
Scriptures, I felt refreshed and strengthened to occupy the
remaining hours with other studies and duties.
My joy, more and more, in turning to the Scriptures, is that I
find Jesus there, and His company is more blessed among these
wild hills and in these solitary forest camps than tongue can tell.
No matter what the arch-enemy may say, I can never believe
that God will lightly forsake one whom He has bought so dearly.
Were He to do so, it would not be setting me at a discount— for
/ count for nothing— but it would be a disparagement to the
precious blood of Christ.
LABOURS OF AMERICANS IN AFRICA.
The American missionaries at Bailundu have had a Vocabulary
of Umbundu, and Observations on Grammatical Construction,
published in America; the latter work, though small, is full of
valuable information. Having with me some of the best works
on African languages, and having a pretty fair knowledge of two
dialects, with a daily increasing knowledge of Umbundu, I ex
pect to be able, without much delay, to pick up the dialect of
any of the Bantu tribes.
Bishop Taylor's party are reported to be still at Loando, and
they will probably give up their first project and go up to the
Congo ; there seems to be a deal of sickness amongst them ;
hence the delay. THE BIHE CHIEF GIVES ME "THE ROAD."
The chief here, in a favourable interview, has given me, accord
ing to native custom, "the road" to the Garenganze, and I got off
very cheaply in only having to pay, as tribute, about one hundred

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 137
yards of cotton cloth ; but my stock was small, and I claimed a
special privilege as having come from the interior, as the natives
do. A young Portuguese trader, who insists on accompanying
me (and I cannot prevent him), gave three four-gallon kegs of
rum, a case of gin, six hundred yards of cloth, fifty pounds of
powder, and one or two guns. A Portuguese priest told me
he had to give one four-gallon keg of rum, two hundred yards
of cloth, two blankets, six shirts, his own silver watch, and some
other small things. Senhor Porto never returns from the coast
without bringing as tribute far more than this.
I expect to cross the Quanza before the end of the present
month. The other day I sent off a message to the small chief
there, to advise him of my coming. Giving such men time to
think over any proposal at once inspires confidence.
MY LOST BOY, KAUKASHIA.
Whilst staying in Bihe I found out the truth respecting my boy
Kaukashia, whom I had brought from the Barotse Valley, and left
sick at Belmonte. On my first return from Benguella they told
me he, had died during my absence. My other lad, Dick, how
ever, was not so credulous as I was, and he continued to question
these people, and to say, " If Kaukashia is dead, show me where
they have buried him." As they could not do so, his suspicions
were aroused ; and upon being informed of them, I made further
enquiry, and found, to my great sorrow, that Kaukashia had been
induced by a man living at Belmonte to go out to the forest to
gather firewood with him, and then he was either sold or handed
over to some accomplice to sell. Dear little chap, it is hard to
lose him in this way. Often have I heard the groan and the
sorrow ol this land, in its bondage and slavery, but now I seem
to feel the pang of it. I bow to God's will in this loss, and trust
it may be His way of leading me into a deeper sympathy with
the downtrodden children of Africa.
a woman's cruelty.
Another sad case came before me at this time. A little boy,
about eight or nine years old, who belonged to a town close by,
came to beg some food from me. I saw that both his hands
were in a sad condition. The left one was completely distorted.

138 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
and three of the fingers were joined together in one suppurating
mass. The right hand was completely skinned, and the arms
were more or less badly scalded. Upon enquiry I learned that
the boy had been visiting, with some of his village mates, the
town of one of Chipongi's sisters. When playing about he had
stolen some beans belonging to this woman, who, to punish the
child, put both his hands into a pot of water then boiling on the
fire. The left hand was so much injured that she must have
held it in the water for a few seconds. I understand that this
creature in human shape has not even been called in question
for her cruelty. a poor start.
October 10II1. — With the help of a few women and stragglers
that I picked up, I left Belmont to-day, crossed the Kineto river,
and camped by the side of a small stream, only three miles from
the starting-place. Yet it was a start, and I was satisfied. The
porters I had engaged had acted so strangely that I was com
pelled to conclude that other things were working against me,
and that for some reason the men were afraid to go. Two
men, however, seemed determined to stick by me — Kasoma and
Jombo. I piled the loads up as they were brought along, and paid the
motley crowd a yard of cloth each for their assistance ; set up my
little tent, and sat down with a feeling of intense satisfaction at
getting even such a start. Dick, however, was with me, in the
best of spirits, cooking some antelope flesh for my supper. My
dog Bennie was told off to watch the loads, and Kasoma and
Jombo built a shelter for themselves close by.
nth. — Sent off messengers in all directions to call for
carriers. Was willing to accept offers for one day's journey, if
they would come.
13th. — Had prospect of getting another start this morning.
After a hasty cup of coffee, by way of breakfast, I took
down my tent and bundled it up. Those who had promised to
come for loads were very dilatory, and it was towards mid-day
before we began to get the loads out of camp. Sending some
on ahead in charge of Kasoma, I told him to camp at a place
called Nyani, some four miles off, and I remained behind, as
there were still a few loads for which there were no carriers.

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 139
In the evening I was able to overtake Kasoma and the others,
and in the dark paid off all the day-workers, got my loads
together, and threw a sheet of waterproof canvas over them.
I had, however, barely got under cover myself when a heavy
storm came on, threatening to drive everything before it. The
carriers had gone off to their villages close by for shelter, and I
was left alone in the damp and darkness, holding on grimly to
the flapping canvas of my tent. At last the storm abated some
what, and I got a few hours' undisturbed sleep before morning.
14^. — Marched a few miles in the same hand-to-mouth
fashion, Kasoma and a few other men returning to Nyani for
loads left there. AN OCEAN OF LAND.
October i$th. — Reached Kapoko's capital, which is situated on
the eastern limit of the Bihe plateau. The valley of the Kukema
and Quanza rivers lies at our feet, while the great interior plain
extends like an ocean beyond. It woke in my mind a thousand
thoughts concerning unknown countries yet to be traversed.
It is not always good for us to see too far before at one time ;
our capacities are small. When I lost the view of the great
broad ocean which lies between us, as I crossed the Benguella
hills, I breathed a deep-down farewell, and gave a long look at
the horizon as the sun was setting. But here was an ocean of
land and silence before me, and my heart had well nigh failed
me ; but I -remembered that God was there, and felt strengthened
in Him, so that I was ready to say, "I can do all things through
Christ who strengtheneth me." Since then these words have
been running over with comfort, " Behold, Thou art there ! "
(Psalm cxxxix.) "Thou," whose I am, and whom I serve, my
God, "Thou art there;" and at Thy bidding I could go even
into the depths of the sea, " for Thou art there."
How blessed the trust of our holy Lord in those words,
"Thou wilt not leave My soul in hades." The chief priests,
mocking, said, " He trusted in God : let Him deliver Him now."
But resting in the God of resurrection, He said, " I will put My
trust in Him."
It is the bidding of God that Christ should be preached in
these far-off parts. I give myself to Him for His work. I know
He accepts me for Africa, so that whether I live or die the

T40 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
purposes which He hath for this country will be served thereby.
I am filled with joy at the substance of that for which I hope —
"fields white unto the harvest."
DIVINE LOVE AND ITS RESULTS.
The true living spring of all our work must be, that " we have
knoiun and believed the love that God hath to us." Who shall
speak of love, or who shall declare the sweetness of it ? In the
Epistle to the Romans the Holy Spirit is not spoken of until the
fifth chapter is reached, and then in connection with love —
"Because the love of God is shed abroad in our hearts by the
Holy Ghost which is given unto us." It would appear from this
that the presence of the Holy Spirit, the Comforter, is not
apparent to the subject of divine grace until he discovers that
" new commandment " of love working in him, so that, contrary
to all his former habits and experiences, he glories in tribulation,
knowing that tribulation worketh patience, etc. ; the mainspring of
all being " because the love of God is shed abroad in our hearts
by the Holy Ghost." The cause, " love" and the result, " know
ing!' are joined together, answering to those two truths that
" God is love " and " God is light." To dwell in love is to dwell
in light. In the sunshine of God's presence we understand all
things as they really are, not as they outwardly seem to be, so
that the conduct of him who glories in tribulation is not forced,
but natural. In that which seems to bear him downwards he
finds, in the light of Bethel, a staircase leading upwards, even to
patience, experience, and tranquillity before God.
KAPOKO.
In the evening I visited Kapoko. His town is large and very
cleanly. The chief, however, could not see me, as he was
mourning the death of a child. I left a present of 32 yards of
calico for him, and returned to camp. A little later in the
evening three of his headmen came to me with a story of great
dissatisfaction, said to be from Kapoko, to the effect that my
present was too small. "I surely thought," they said, "that
Kapoko was a very small man, seeing I had sent him so small a
present." I listened to their story with every attention, and
then seriously assured them of the mistake they were making,

1 885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 141
saying that "I had great respect for Kapoko, I knew that he
was a great man, and that the size of my present spoke only of
my smallness, and not at all of his. Had I been a man in
Kapoko's position among white men I no doubt would have
given him bales of cloth instead." The frowning faces of these
three old men dropped a little, but there was no reply. They
seemed rather puzzled at my serious denial of their charge ; but
some of the younger men sitting behind, after vainly trying to
suppress their emotion, burst into laughter, which was the signal
for a general hearty laugh, and so they left me.
October 16th. — My last night's visitors came back this morning,
saying that Kapoko would give me nothing less than an ox, and that
he had sent to the Quanza to procure one for me from one of his
villages, and it would arrive on the morrow. I told them that I was
very hungry, and that a sheep would be worth more to me to-day
than an ox to-morrow. In the end a fat sheep was sent to my
camp, after which Kapoko came himself to visit me. They
carried him in a palanquin. He is a very old and frail man.
A HELPER STRANGELY PROVIDED.
Here I again made what proved to be almost a futile effort
to collect carriers.
After mustering them I started from Kapoko's capital for the
Cisambe river, October 23 rd. Here I met with Cinyama, an old
man of some little importance among his own people. He was
suffering from some malady, a cure for which he was told was to
be had in the Garenganze country, where I proposed to go.
Consequently he was very anxious that I should engage him, and
he promised to provide me with what carriers I might require.
At first I thought I would not require any from him ; but while at
Cisambe my men dispersed, as they had done twice before when
at Belmonte. A messenger came from a small chief on the
borders of the Bihe country, warning my men on no account to
go with me, that I had come from the east coast and was going
there again (implying that they would never return) ; and with
other words he succeeded so well in his object that all my men
asked for the yard of cloth that I owed them for carrying my
goods from Kapoko's town, and left me.
After consulting with Cinyama I decided that it was of no use

142 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
to wait here any longer, as I saw every effort of mine would
be vigorously checkmated by these Bihe' chiefs and ivory traders.
I therefore made a start for Cisambe on the 27th. A very trying
day indeed it was. My plan was to travel in a north-easterly
direction, so as to cross the Quanza below the junction of
the Kukema and Kutia rivers. I determined to do my best with
what men I could muster, leaving with Cinyama the loads
for which I had no carriers. My ox was getting into better
training by this time. The long rest he had in Bihe" after my
return from the Upper Zambesi had rather demoralised him, but
he had lost nothing in strength. A small company of Garenganze
natives, who had been at Bihe for some time, joined me at
Cisambe. Although they had their own goods to carry, they
were in other matters helpful to me.
STOCK OF GOODS.
Difficulties in getting along have reduced my loads somewhat.
However, on looking over my things I find I have, besides a few
tools — Six panes of window glass, and frame for the same ;
Six 60 lb. bales of cloth ;
80 lbs. of biscuits ;
Three strong tin boxes, containing extra clothing and a few
books and medicines ;
One load of ammunition, and a box containing spare lead
and cartridges ;
Four bags of salt, necessary for the purchase of food by
the way ;
Two boxes, containing a few extras in the way of provisions
suitable for times of sickness, a little wine, etc.
Besides porters for these things, I require a few for the
carriage of food that we shall need to purchase from the villages
as we go along.
I succeeded in getting away from the Cisambe River with
about half my loads, leaving the rest to be brought on by
Cinyama as soon as possible.
October 2gth. — Glad to see Kasoma arrive this morning with
other four loads.

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 143
30th. — Had a long day's march. Passed a small trading
caravan returning from the interior with a company of slaves.
Many of these poor creatures looked terribly afraid of me on my
ox. I suppose they thought they had arrived at the long-talked-of
land of monsters.
31st. — Camped by the Quanza. Towards evening a perfect
hurricane blew from the east for a short time, sweeping before it
my camp and the little shelters the men had erected for them
selves. THE QUANZA CROSSED.
November ist. — Engaged some boats this morning, after a good
deal of delay and palaver, and got my loads across the Quanza.
Two men, who had promised to go with me as far as the Kwiba
River, deserted, so I had to pack their loads on my ox and push
along. 2nd. Rain fell in torrents to-day. Remained in camp. Thank
ful indeed to have got on so far. Am reminded of St. Theresa's
words this morning. She is said to have built a hospital with
only three farthings to begin with. " Theresa and three farthings
are nothing; but God and three farthings are incalculable." And
so with His help all things become easy.
THE VALOIMBE.
November 3rd.- — A fine clear morning. I packed my ox again
and off we went, reaching camp close by Kaneka, which is the
capital of a large section of the Valoimbe tribe. These people
suffer a good deal from their proximity to the' large Bihe" country.
We passed the ruins , of many villages that had been sacked by
raiding parties from Bihe. The people, however, seemed to
be very industrious, spinning yarn from cotton, and manufacturing
a coarse, but very serviceable cloth. They were always in their
fields cultivating, yet they have a poor and ill-clad appearance,
and the huts were much out of repair. I was detained some
time treating with the chief as to my free passage through
his country. I then took a south-easterly direction, and camped
on the banks of the Kuiba River, which brought me again
in sight of the hills at Kapoko's, across the Quanza and Kukema
valleys. Here I determined to await the arrival of Cinyama,
with any carriers he might have mustered to bring on the loads

144 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
I had left with him, and also fresh carriers to replace those who
only agreed to accompany me as far as the Kuiba.
In a few days Cinyama came up, and I found that men who
would not engage with me in Bihe' had no hesitation in doing so
at my camp at the Kuiba, now they were away from the power
of the Bihe' chiefs ; gradually my little camp began to increase
in size. Huts were built by our little company as they came
along, and I had time to humour my men to the best of my
ability, packing and re-packing the loads so as to bring them into
the shape most convenient for them to carry. Thus we became
acquainted with one another, and prepared for a final start for
the far interior. OUR COMPANY.
A few typical African characters are to be found in our
company. Chipooka stammers as he speaks, but is lively under
all circumstances ; has a bad festering toe, which, however, does
not prevent him carrying his sixty-pound load. Though limping .
badly, his only response to expressions of sympathy is a broad
grin. Saombo is another representative man, perfectly hideous
in his looks, but vanity has made his ugliness appear comical.
All who come to camp, he seems to think, have come to see him.
So as soon as a few strangers gather, he is not prepared for more
hut-building or wood-cutting, but must go and sit down in front
of them, laughing and clapping his thighs with delight, and trying
to crack jokes. Then we have the sulky grumbler amongst us,
who has always something to complain of. Now his load is not
right, next his rations, then his pay, or a thorn pricks his foot and
he can carry no longer that day. The work has to be done, but
certainly not by him. Only one or two of such in a company
can reasonably be borne with.
I spend each evening sitting round the camp-fire with my men,
trying in a thousand ways to convey to them intelligent thoughts
as to my mission. It is of the first importance that they should
understand me, and be able to give an answer to the thousands
in the interior who will ask them what this white man has come
for. In reviewing the occupants of my camp I must not overlook
my faithful dog and a parrot. The latter I bought for a trifle for
the sake of my boys, and he is a great help to them, as he seems

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 145
to watch for times when all are quiet and dull, and then breaks
out in imitation of an old man's laugh, or makes some ridiculous
remark, and so relieves their monotony.

RUM IN DEMAND.
The country for some distance beyond this point is rather
thinly populated, so that we had to lay in an extra stock of food,
mainly of cassava meal. The chief of this district presented me
with an ox, the meat of which I cut up in strips and dried in
the sun for future consumption. Calico cloth was the only
article the natives would receive in return for their produce,
although, of course, they would very gladly have taken rum.
When they heard that a white man had come to their country,
they naturally expected that he would have plenty of rum with
him, and they made constant demands for it, and could scarcely
be persuaded that I had none.
MEN WANT PAY IN ADVANCE.
November gth. — My men make request for their pay. From
what I hear them say among themselves, they seemingly do not
trust me, and fear that when I get to the interior, and under the
protection of a powerful chief, I shall not pay them as much as I
promise. At last I consented to pay each man twenty-four yards
of fine cloth, leaving the equivalent of other eight yards each to
be paid in beads at the journey's end. This reduced my stock
somewhat, and when it was tied up again I had but twenty-one
men's loads, counting tent and everything. Every one, however,
appears now to be satisfied and in good spirits. In the evening
a letter came across the country from Kapoko, full of expressions
of his good feeling towards me, and telling my carriers that if
they injured "Monare" they injured Kapoko. It is evident
that Kapoko did what he could, underhand, to hinder my
leaving Bihe', but now that I am well away six days' journey,
and am likely to succeed, he sends these assurances of his
good will.
10th. — We were ready to move forward to-day, but the rain
prevented us, giving me leisure to go over the roll of my carriers
and travelling companions. There are seven "sekulos," who
L

146 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
look after the carriers ; twenty-one men porters, and four boys ;
besides those who merely travel with me for their own con
venience—namely, six natives of Garenganze, sent out by their
chief to hunt up trade, who willingly accompany me; and a
mulatto, sent by a Portuguese trader to exchange a little cloth
and powder for ivory : he has three or four men to take his loads.
Another mulatto, father of one of my carriers, goes to see if he
can get some work from the Garenganze chief in the way of
sewing. A few other Biheans, who go to trade in different parts,
make the company about sixty.
1 ith. — Made an early start this morning ; followed along the
course of the Kaluja river, reaching a few villages known as
Kasombo. 1 2th. — Remained here buying food, as the country on ahead
is said to be very destitute of it. These villages of Kasombo
are inhabited by Valoimbe people, the last of the tribe ( in this
direction. They are on the whole a fine-looking people, and
have a serious, self-possessed air about them. Large, intelligent-
looking foreheads, and very fantastically-dressed hair, are con
spicuous among them.
13th. — Travelled for seven hours to-day through a country
almost entirely void of man or beast. Camped by the side of
a deserted village; people all gone to the south.
14th. — Seven hours' further journey through beautiful country;
crossed three good-sized rivers (unknown to map-makers), and
camped by the Yalowa. No signs of inhabitants anywhere.
THE CHIBOKWE COUNTRY.
November i$th. — Met travellers going west, and sent a letter
to Benguella.
We are now in the Chibokwe country. The people I have
met thus far seem to be wholly devoted to procuring beeswax;
and when out hunting for it, they live for weeks almost entirely
on the honey. They also make a drink from the honey, a kind of
mead, the honey being mixed with water and fermented in large
calabashes. As they drink this warm in the morning it keeps
them in a half-dazed condition all day. They extract the wax
from the comb by a simple process of boiling, and then put it
through a sieve made from bark fibre, by beating and rubbing.

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 147
The wax is left to gather on the surface of the water, and is then
collected, pressed by the hands into balls, cast into large cakes,
and sold to Bihe" traders.

$wp

it_ ''^v

Beeswax Hunters.

One morning Cinyama was rather slow to leave camp, and it
was evident that he had been allured by some of these Chibokwe
to share with them a calabash of mead. Starting on alone after
the caravan, he was overtaken and stripped of his shirt and hat

148 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
by a company of bee-hunters, and on arriving in camp again he
looked somewhat ashamed at having been robbed in such an
ignominious way. AFRICAN CAMPS.
Our camping-places are generally on the borders of some forest
belt. My men are always on the look-out for shelters which
have been built by former native travellers. Many of these have
been so often used by passing caravans that they assume the
appearance of old stackyards in some ill-kept farm.
The manner in which these shelters or huts are made is very
simple but effective. Poles are cut in the forest with a natural
fork at one end. Three or four of these are placed together,
much as soldiers would pile their rifles. Poles and branches are
rested against them, and in the rainy season all is covered with a
heavy thatching of grass. African grasses are so long, and so
abundant, that it takes but a short time for the men to secure
enough to make an efficient covering for their hut or shelter.
The wind, however, is apt to make sad havoc of these shelters,
and sometimes when a storm comes on suddenly they prove
delusive refuges. The next travellers who come along repair
them with fresh grass, and thus save the time which would be
occupied in building new ones. There is always a great danger
of fire in old camping-places, and I am often nervous about my
men sleeping in them. They are so fond of keeping large fires
burning at night that I generally pitch my own tent at some
distance. DAILY ROUTINE.
The daily programme in travelling through a country like this,
where but few villages are met with, is much as follows : By
break of day all in camp are astir. African porters require no
breakfast in the morning. They get up from their camp-fires,
wash their hands and face with a little water placed by their side
the night before, buckle on their belts, shoulder their 60 lbs.
bale of cloth, bag of beads, or box, and with flint-lock musket
in hand, trot off. Someone begins a solo in a high key, all
joining in the chorus. Very little regard is paid to waiting for
orders ; all that must be settled the night before. It is enough
if they understand that they are to march next day, and every
one hastens to get well along the road in the cool of the morning.

1 88s.] From Benguella to Garenganze.

149

150 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
Dick has always a cup of black coffee ready for me, and a mouth
ful of food (left perhaps from the previous night's supper), which
I take by way of breakfast while struggling into' my boots. My
bedding is rolled up by the man who carries it, and who is usually
importunate and impatient to get off. In the roll which contains
my bedding I generally have an overcoat, spare clothing, a few
pieces of calico, and other things which one may need during a
day's journey. The tent is pulled down and bundled up in the
most unceremonious fashion. A few of the sekulos of the party
who are hanging over the camp-fire for a final whiff of the com
mon pipe — which is passed round from one to another — are
the last to follow the caravan, which by this time has probably
crossed a little stream in the hollow, and is disappearing in
the forest on the other side. These men act as a sort of rear
guard, helping any who may have to drop out of the caravan
to tie up their loads again, and also protecting them against
robbers. One or two halts are made by the way, and much difficulty is
sometimes encountered in crossing rivers, but all press on bravely
for the next camping-place, which is generally reached by eleven
or twelve o'clock in the day.
Some of the more knowing of the party are then told off to
scour the country in search of food, while the others busy them
selves in making their shelters as snug and comfortable as possible,
and the ingenuity they manifest in doing so affords me no little
amusement. Towards evening those who have gone off to pur
chase food will return, laden, perhaps, with bunches of Indian-
corn heads, carried on sticks across their shoulders, and baskets
filled with sweet potatoes, etc. The Ovimbundu carrier, how
ever, depends chiefly for food upon beans, and a thick porridge
made of maize meal. Of the latter he is able to eat an
immense quantity, and of its nourishing qualities there can be
no question ; for such a man seldom takes more than one good
meal in the twenty-four hours, during which he is able to take
a long and arduous journey, heavily laden with the white man's
goods.* * This Indian-corn meal was my staple article of food during the greater
part of my seven years' stay and travel in Africa ; and I found it most whole
some and nutritious.

i88s.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 1.51
ON HIGH GROUND.
November 16th. — We passed through a country interesting
with reference to the water-system of Africa. In the early
morning we left the Kutia, flowing N.W. towards the Quanza.
An hour and a half later on we reached the head of the
Monyafigwe, running N.E. to the Kassai, which flows into the
Congo. Another hour and a half s journey and the head of the
Elume was reached; this river flows S.E. to the Zambesi. All
the way we encountered very heavy, drenching rains, and before
we got into camp everything was more or less wet through.
1 7th. — To-day we travelled but a short distance, and halted to
open bales and dry our goods wetted with yesterday's rain.
18th. — Marched for eight hours; compelled to press on for
want ot food.
19/^. — Late this afternoon we reached a few cultivated fields.
It was a refreshing sight, telling us that a trying portion of our
long journey was over. PEHO.
November 20th. — Reached Peho, a place marked on maps with
a dot and circle round it, causing me to expect something like a
town. I found, however, nothing but a few grass huts buried in a
forest of trees. The chief, Sama Kalenge, showed himself to be
greedy and drunken. He was quite a boy. I gave him thirty
yards of cloth, and had to add to it a jacket, pair of trousers,
hat, shoes, and a lot of smaller things. It was a case of give
and get on, or refuse and starve, for scarce a bit of food could be
got at any price. Indeed, the fellow made me quite nervous by
his constant begging, and then demanding. He would pry into
everything — sit on my chair, take off my hat, feel my skin, let off
my gun, and would not let me be quiet. When I tried to speak
to him seriously, he would begin telling me about his three
mothers and two fathers with an ingenious logic, showing that
these five sharers of the marvellous were equally worthy of
presents, which would, of course, fall to him.
22nd. — In spite of the heavy, overhanging clouds we started
this morning, glad at the very thought of getting away from
Peho. We had not gone far, however, when the rain came down
in one steady pour, and lasted for two hours. We kept steadily

1 52 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
on, however, to the head of the Luena River. A glimpse of fair
weather gave the men time to build their camp.
23rd. — Constant rain this morning, so we remain in camp.
A little manioc (cassava) is to be had from the few people about
here. The Luena seems to spring out of the ground, immediately
assuming the appearance of a large river.
24th. — Driving rain from the east, and very cold, but my men
were not to be restrained ; on they would go, in spite of me, so I
had to strike my tent and start. "Cold and rain will not kill us,"
they said, " but hunger will. We must get to some place where
there is food." Our course lay along the north bank of the
Luena, and after a five hours' journey we crossed the river and
camped immediately. NIGHT ENTERTAINMENTS.
November 25th. — Left the banks of the Luena and marched
for seven hours through one large virgin forest ; i.e. not annually
swept by grass fires like other parts of the country. • It was most
tortuous work, it being impossible to step out of the deep, narrow
path, as the whole forest seemed to be covered by layer upon
layer of fallen trees and branches, all of which were woven
together into one woody mass by a long dense, ferny moss.
Camped at the head of the Shemoi River, where I had to
dispense rations to my men and give a present to a small chief.
Crowds of people came to the camp, and were most intent on
giving presents. Two pigs, a goat, and fowls were thrust upon
me, and not content with feeding me, they made an entertainment
with drums and dancing, which was kept up in my camp the
whole night long, until nine the next morning. A shower of rain
fell during the night, but their delight was seemingly not at all
affected by it. It is needless to add how gladly I would have
dispensed with such a demonstration.
26th. — Remain here to buy food. Mosiko, the chief, came
to visit me ; a very quiet-looking old man. I told him as best I
could, through Kasoma, my reasons for having come to his
country; but I have a poor interpreter, who is himself very slow
to understand, and whose knowledge of the Chibokwe is small.
I do not know if I mentioned before that the young man
Antonio, on whose interpreting I depended, has gone off in the

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 153
employment of a Portuguese trader, at much higher pay than I
could afford to give him.
27th. — A very hot day. Made but a short journey along the
Shemoi. Crowds of people lined the path, shouting, dancing,
and singing in a very excited way. It seems that I am the first
white man who has ever passed this way ; Cameron's road was
much to the north. Camped at Boma's. This small chief seemed
to be a very reasonable man, and for the eight yards I sent him
he gave me a full return in a good-sized pig. It seems to be
a matter of general surprise that a white man should travel
with so few carriers; they are accustomed to the passing of
native caravans twice or thrice as large as mine. I have given
up buying anything myself from the natives, as whenever I offer
to buy they double their price right off. " Is it not a white man ?
Will he cut his cloth up into little pieces?"
Hearing the villagers were coming to play in my camp this
evening, I confess that a cold sweat broke over me at the very
thought of it. The days at this time of the year are scorching,
especially in this valley, and the nights but reflect the heat of the
day in a more breathless way, so that sleep is hardly possible;
but add drums and singers, and the case is hopeless. I sent a
present of meat to the village, beseeching them not to come
to my camp. They were not willing, however, to give up the
idea, but kept on the other side of the Shemoi river, and
drummed and danced there all night long.
28th. — This morning I was escorted a long way on the road by
a band of children — laughing, singing, merry little ones; no
sight so reminds me of home, and none is so touching. Camped
by the Dala Cavala ; many villages all around, and food abundant.
CARRIERS REFRACTORY.
November 2gth. — Remained in camp. Four of my men laid down
their loads, and refused to go further. I told them that if they
meant to return they could do so, and I would say nothing, but that
I would certainly take from them what I had given, and would
further bring a charge against them on my return to Bihe". In
this nearly all the rest of the men supported me, and by evening
they had decided to take their loads and go on quietly. Spent
most of the afternoon reading and explaining, as best I could,

154 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
passages of Scripture in Portuguese to the two mulattoes who are
with me ; they in turn explained to my carriers, who told all over
again - to the crowd of aborigines around. This is, I may say,
the only way of interpreting. Anyone who knows the thick
darkness which possesses the minds of these people will under
stand how little of the truth of the Scriptures read will reach the
aborigines, much less be understood by them. Still, I was
encouraged in remembering Psalm cxxxix. : " Made in secret ;
curiously wrought in the lowest parts of the earth." How blessed
is the service of our God! He leadeth captivity captive, and
giveth gifts unto men, SUMBULA'S GENEROSITY.
November 30th. — Early this morning we again reached the Luena
river, now quite a large stream, and had much trouble in getting the
goods across dry by a roughly-made bridge, half sunk in the
river. I took my ox further up to clear water, and drove him
across, and then rolling my clothes round my head, like a great
turban, I swam after him. A short way from the river a small
chief met us with his drum beating, and with a goat as a present,
to induce me to camp by his town. It was early in the day,
but speed is no object now when food is. plentiful, and desiring
to be as much among the people as possible, we camped where
he asked us. His name is Sumbula, a sensible-looking man,
very anxious that I should accept an ox as a present. I refuse
it, however, and shall be content with a goat. I know that
in return he would expect powder, calico, and clothing in pro
portion. December ist. — At Sumbula's request I remain with him to-day.
He has been most importunate about my receiving his gift, and
seeing that I was afraid to eat his ox, because of the recompense
it would entail, he gave me a receipt for the ox in full as if I had
bought and paid for it. This he did, as is the custom amongst
the Chibokwe, by first declaring the matter to his people, then
taking a twig, breaking it in two and throwing a part over each
shoulder. The whole twig in front of him represented the
question on hand ; the twig broken and cast behind the chief's
back, the question decided and forgotten ; for even to refer to
a matter after it has been formally settled in this way is con-

i88j.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 155
sidered by the Chibokwe as scandalous. After this I had not
the face to refuse the ox any longer, and so we ate it. Sumbula
spent the afternoon with me, and was very pleased to talk as long
as I liked. I gave him a hat and a dress of print-cloth as a token
of our friendship, and he gave a guide to take us to the next
camp by a shorter route. He could not, however, spare me the
ordeal of drumming at night in camp; five drums and about
thirty voices left little time for sleep.
2nd. — Arrived at the head of the Chonga river. Here there
were many villages, and a perfect crowd of people came to the
camp, all very well-behaved, I must say. The pressing and
crowding until late at night to get a look at the white man was
somewhat trying ; they meant well, so I had no option but to
take it patiently and all in good part. Many from these villages
had gone off with a raiding party to the Lunda country, and had
fared badly; a few of them passed my camp to-day in a sad
state, telling of many who had been killed.
KANGOMBE, A POWERFUL CHIEF.
December 3rd. — Reached the capital of Kangombe to-day. The
Chibokwe country is passed, and I am now in the Lovale; i.e. "The
Flats." The Balovale (people of the flats or plains) are in many
respects superior to the Bachibokwe, in the sense that they make
better inhabitants of a country, being less given to wandering. I am
amused to see how fond they are of singing-birds ; these have a
regular current value among them, and their neatly-made cages
are to be seen hanging about all their villages. I notice here,
close by my camp, that they have made a large fish-dam. I
have never before seen natives, untaught by whites, dam a river
for any purpose. Kangombe is quite a powerful man, the leader
of all the Balovale and many of the Bachibokwe in war; his
power is recognised between the kingdoms of the Barotse, the
Garenganze, and Muate Yanvo of Lunda. I sent him a small
present. 4th. — Remained in camp. Kangombe came to see me; a very
small-looking man indeed, who seemed quite afraid to come into
my tent, and wanted to sit down on the ground. I gave him my
chair, but that was another difficulty for him. How was he to
sit on it ? At last he ventured sideways on the furthest corner of

156 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec.
it, looking suspiciously at the back of the chair. He never asked
for anything, but kept looking about him, and then at me, with a
pair of eyes like needles for sharpness. When I observed him
afterwards speaking" to his own people, I saw what I suspected
was the case — that the little slim, wiry body, so cautious in its
movements, was full of activity and energy. He was sorry I
could only remain with him one day, and gave me a goat as a
present. $th. — Marched for Kobongo; crowds of people everywhere;
country very flat and full of marshes. Travelling is most trying
work over these exposed flats, under a vertical sun. I should
suppose that there is a splendid opening for mission-work here ;
crowds of people on all hands. The country may be unhealthy
to a European, but the natives, judging from their looks, find it
healthy ; they have not the sunken eyes and sallow skins of the
Barotse and others who inhabit marshy countries. They tell me
that in the dry season it is so cold that " the trees and grass dry-
up ; " so there must be some degrees of frost annually, owing, I
suppose, to the altitude and exposed nature of the country.
THE TRIBES TO THE EAST OF BIHiL
As to-morrow I expect to meet with a caravan bound west
wards, I will sum up this portion of my diary with general re
marks upon the inhabitants of the countries east of Bihe".
The Va- or Ba-loimbe, living along the Quanza and three
days' journey east of that river, seem to be naturally a quiet,
industrious people, given to fishing, herding cattle, and the
manufacture of native pottery. They have been much disturbed
by the inhabitants of Bihe, and everywhere there are the remains
of what were once large villages, burned down by those robbers.
Next come the Bachibokwe, a wandering people seeking for
beeswax or hunting game; they work in wood and iron very
neatly, and expend much ingenuity in ornamenting their guns
and other weapons. They have the name of being very quarrel
some and ready to fall out with travellers. But I experienced
nothing of the kind, except that a company of beeswax hunters
robbed one of my men who had fallen behind the caravan.
They build very mean-looking villages — mere camps, in fact,
hid among the trees, and often far from water.

i88g.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 157
I met some of the Balovale before at the Barotse, and I retain
the opinion first formed of them — that they are a race of ex
ceptionally manly-looking people. Much of their language I
understand, it being of the pure Bantu stock. They cultivate
manioc and massanga (birdseed) largely, and are rich in domestic
animals — oxen, goats, and pigs.
THE KIFUMADSHE FLAT.
Between the Quanza and Peho the population is very scanty,
and food is scarce ; cartridges seem to be the currency most in
use. After Peho is passed, food begins to be more plentiful.
Salt and cartridges are about the only things asked for, but I
managed to buy all I needed with cloth and dried fish, brought
with me from the Quanza.
I am now within three days of the Kifumadshe Lake.
Though it is not the dry season, my journey has been most en
joyable. I rejoice in this opportunity of again testifying to our
Lord's keeping, providing care, and to the justness of His
reproaches when He said to His disciples who had embarked
with Him, "Why reason ye because ye have no bread? Do
ye not yet perceive, neither understand? have ye your heart
hardened? . . . When I brake the five loaves among the five
thousand, how many baskets full of broken pieces took ye up?
.... Do ye not yet understand ? "
December 6th.- — To-day I encountered the caravan I was ex
pecting, the leader of which, a son of Chipongi, chief of Bihe",
took charge of my letters. I also heard of a caravan of Garen
ganze men being at the Lumese river ; they have got into trouble
with the natives, and have had some of their ivory taken from
them. Camped in the evening by a small lake called Kalundu.
7th. — My men crying out for more rations, and won't go on.
8th. — The Garenganze caravan has passed my camp. Their
leader said some of his men were afraid to go on to Bihe", and
wanted to return with me.
nth. — By this date we had crossed the Lumese River, and
reached the edge of the Kifumadshe Flat (there is no lake as
marked in the map). The river of this name rises in the centre
of a flat, flooded and impassable from January to April or May ;
it could not even be called a marsh, as the ground here is sandv

158 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec.
and firm, with grass and trees growing upon a host of mounds
made by ants.
122$. — Very wet to-day. I managed to kill a large antelope
last night, and gave my men the meat, so they are in better spirits
than usual. On the whole they have been most trying ; never, even
for a day, content, and fighting like wolves among themselves.
13th. — Started wading to-day, and all got into camp very tired.
I found some huts, extending over a space of about a square mile,
and built on dry mounds, the work of former travellers.
14th. — Water about knee-deep all day ; got to another group
of half-dry mounds ; I pitched my tent with great care, and by
setting each foot of my chair on an ant hill, managed to keep
above water.
i^th. — Got on to dry ground again, and camped on the south
bank of the Kifumadshe River.
CARRIERS CLAMOUR FOR MEAT.
December 16th. — Crossed the river and camped quite late. Here
my men began to misbehave to the best of their ability — laying
down their loads, demanding more rations, then meat : " Meat,
Monare, give us meat ; why won't you hunt ? you are starving us."
I lifted my gun to go. I was, I must confess, sadly out of temper,
and kept scolding them while I was tugging the cover off my
gun, when "it suddenly went off, shattering the point of my left
fore-finger. There was no one who could dress a wound, so I
thought the cleanest and safest way would be to cut off the top
joint of the finger. I got a lancet out of my case, and my man,
Kasoma, cut according to my directions. This effectually cooled
my anger; indeed, I was compelled to rejoice at the mercy of
God. Two verses came forcibly to my mind : " You only have
I known of all the families of the earth : therefore I will punish
you for all your iniquities;" and "The Lord loveth judgment,
and forsaketh not His saints." I ate a good supper, slept well,
and was first off next morning, and first in camp at Kasombo, a
clump of villages at the head of the Lutembwa river. Yesterday
I passed Lake Dilolo far to the right, only seeing the water
glistening between the hills. I would have gone by the lake,
but because of my ox I was compelled to avoid it, the way being
marshy in places.

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 159
LUNDA COUNTRY.
This is now Lunda country, although the Balovale are every
where to be met
December 18th. — Remained in camp, my men buying fish. The
chief here treated me very meanly, I consider; after claiming an extra
large tribute, he sent me in return only some rotten fish and meal.
19^. — A short journey along the Lutembwa brought us to
another small chief. Being a relative of Katema's, he would
have me remain next day, which I did to my sorrow. All
forenoon was spent in holding out against his demands. I had
given him eight yards of cloth, for which he gave me a goat,
and then wanted more cloth, a jacket, etc. After four or five
hours of this work I began to dose in my chair, and the chief
rose and left ; he sent his man in the morning, however, to ask
for more. I could but refuse, and tell the man to go home.
20th. — My friend of yesterday almost succeeded in revenging
himself for my stubbornness by giving me a guide with instructions
to mislead me and take me to Dilolo. One of my men, however,
detected him, and I dismissed him with little ceremony. Camped
at Kapwita. Here no less than three chiefs turned up. One
called himself the chief of the Lunda residents; another, the
chief of the Lovale residents ; and the third, the " man of the
country -' or land I managed to get them appeased in measure.
In spite of their troublesome ways there is much about these
Balunda I like. Their villages are kept clean, and they have
good gardens, and the men work in the fields as well as the
women ; this is also common among the Balovale. They seem to-
be more " religious " than their neighbours. One sees continually
in the forests small clearings about the trunk of some immense
tree, with a double rail round, and some " fetish thing " in front,
in the shape of a horn or image, and there the people come to
offer to their forefathers. Many fetish huts are also to be seen in
their villages.
2 ist. — Crossed the Lutembwa Valley to-day. It is flooded, and
covered with a forest of immense trees, which have large-spreading
roots like the mangrove. We waded for some hours through this
dense forest. The emerald-green mosses, shining through the water,
contrasted beautifully with the pale ferns clustering round and
among the tree-roots, and with icicle-like mosses, which hung

160 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
in long delicate festoons from the branches at every opening in
the forest. Camped in the afternoon at Old Katema (New
Katema is at Dilolo.) The chief happened to be at this town, and
I sent him the usual present.
A FRIEND OF LIVINGSTONE'S.
December 22nd. — This morning Katema sent me a present of a
woman slave with infant in arms — a pitiful sight. The chief's
messengers said that food was to follow, but that Katema could
not give to a white man a present of food only. I asked them as
a favour to take the woman back ; and if they would only send
her to her own village and among her own people, and never
think of giving her away again to strangers, I should be more
than pleased. The chief, however, did not quite understand my
message, and thought I had refused the slave because she was
full-grown, and so he sent back word that to-morrow he would
send me a young boy or girl. Though suffering a good deal
from my finger, which was ulcerating, I determined to go to
his village and explain the matter.
I found he was a good-looking man. He knew Livingstone,
and was sorry to hear of his death ; was quite satisfied with my
explanation about the slave. We parted in the evening the best
of friends. I am sorry I cannot spend more time with this
Katema ; but I am hastening to Nana Kandundu, where I hope
to get a little rest, and where many of my men, I hear, intend to
leave me. HELPED BY ARMY ANTS.
December 23rd. — The carriers seem to have got over their fright
at rriy finger being injured, when many of them said it was their
fault. Now they have begun clamouring again for more rations.
A band this morning have gone through the camp, threatening to
belabour with leather thongs the first to lift his load. I left the
matter entirely in the Master's hands, being assured that if
Katema was the place to which He had sent me, He would not
allow me to go further. So I withdrew from the camp, never
dreaming that a march could be made to-day. While sitting on a
log I suddenly saw a general move among the men ; they came
out, one after another, and went off, scarcely saying a word. The
truth was, the camp was literally alive with " army ants," which

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. i6r
came rushing in from all directions, and anyone who knows
anything about the African army ant will at once understand why
my carriers turned out so speedily. I can most truthfully say I
was willing to remain at Katema, but the Lord prevented my
doing so. In the evening I camped at Kahlangumbu, a cluster
of fishers' huts.
24th. — Reached the village of a small female chief.
2$th. — Lost our path, and wandered up and down the bush all
day ; finally we struck the Loambo river, and camped.
QUARRELS.
December 26th. — A long day's journey brought us to Katonge.
Here the hills on the east side of the Zambesi are in sight. My
brave men, having ceased for the time to -quarrel with me, have
been letting out their spleen one against another. On the road
they had two free fights with sticks. Then they fell on the
Garenganze men who are with me, and took a gun from them.
27th. — Remained in camp this morning to settle the dispute.
My men say that their fellows were robbed some time ago by men
from the interior, that the Garenganze came from the interior, and
therefore they must now pay them for their fellows' loss. I paid
1 2 yards of calico to get back the gun, seeing it was useless to
dispute with people bent on robbery.
28th. — Another quarrel this morning between my men and the
people of the country. A little dog | in the camp was ill and
vomited, and a native, who had come to sell meal, sat down
beside the dog, and some of the vomit came on his arm. We all
declared it was his own fault, and would not pay for this offence ;
so he and his friends waylaid us on the road, caught a straggler,
and took his gun from him. Camped on the east bank of the
Luvua, a large river flowing into the Zambesi. Here there is a
Lovale colony under a chief named Fela. They have established
themselves in the Lunda country by sheer force.
WATER TOO ABUNDANT.
To-morrow I expect to meet a Bailundu caravan bound for the
west, so I close this part of my journal. I do not send any
sketch-map of route taken, as I shall have to go over the ground
again before I can be at all correct, the rivers being very
M

162 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
numerous, and so many names alike. This part of my journey
has been particularly trying because of the amount of water
encountered on the road ; rivers and marshes were full. Scarcely
a day has passed but I have been soaked to the waist in water or
mire. My health, however, is excellent. Since entering on these
flats many of my men have had fever — three are down with it
now — -but I have been kept perfectly free from it.*
To-morrow we should arrive at Nana Kandundu, the town
of a female chief, where many of my carriers will leave me.
I purpose to remain there a month or so, and then go on with
the Garenganze men and such of my carriers as will consent
to do so, the rest of my loads being left at Nana Kandundu.
Ten days' journey will take me to the Lualaba river, the
border of the Garenganze country, and other ten days to
Msidi's capital, and I hope that he will send men back for the
loads left.
Nana Kandundu will, I think, be a good centre for future work,
as nearly all the interior roads meet there. It will also be less
difficult to engage carriers from Bihe for Nana Kandundu than
for the Garenganze. I don't think there will be much difficulty
in getting loads conveyed from there on, by Garenganze men.
EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER.
December 2gth. — I have a fixed assurance that this labour and
travelling will not be in vain, for I realise the presence of the
Lord in a precious and assuring way, so that my days and nights
are spent in constant peace. I can show few results of missionary
work ; little that men can see. I suppose the humblest Sunday-
school teacher may be winning more souls to Christ than I ; but
I am content. I know they will not say they have " no need "
of me, neither shall I say so of them.
I was much refreshed the other night while reading the passage
where the Lord said, " Wherever this gospel shall be preached
throughout the whole world, this also that she hath done shall be
spoken of." Was there a single spot on the whole earth yet to be
reached that was hidden from His eyes when He uttered those
words? His words seemed also to say, "Wherever those who
love Me as she loves Me go to tell of Me, there will I be," for the
* On my recent journey from Garenganze I avoided this marshy country.

1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 163
spirit of commanding is entirely absent. I connected these thoughts
with the words qf David, when he longed for a drink of the well
af Bethlehem. The words spoken to Isaiah, " Who will go for
us?" also show that the Lord seeks those who willingly offer
themselves. I suppose some of my friends at home are thinking it is sheer
headstrongness on my part pushing so far again into the interior,
as yet without even a fellow-helper. All I can say is, it is evident
to me that the Lord has brought me thus far. I am as willing to
go further as to remain here. The whole ground is to be occupied;
His word, I believe, is to reach every part with the message of
grace. I am willing to go to the furthest part in the service
of Him who has proved Himself all to me ; yea, much more
than life. I love the gospel message most dearly, but God's
whole word is also equally precious, and I shall ever consider
it my highest privilege to be free to follow it wholly, wherever
I go. A FEMALE CHIEF.
December- 30th. — A long march to-day brought us to Nana
Kandundu's town. Towards the end of the journey I began
to stoop as usual, and when I got into camp I was down; liver
giving me great pain, being much swollen.
31st. — Was unable to get up to-day, and could not pay off the
few men. How many, or rather how few, will go on with me is
very uncertain. Nana Kandundu came to visit me. She is a
smart-looking elderly woman, and seemingly quite equal to her
position. January ist, 1886. — This morning I called my men together
to give them rations, and to know who would journey further
and who would not I discovered that eight were willing to go
on; the rest wished to return from here. I said, "All right,"
and gave them their rations. With these eight I shall start for
Garenganze, and leave the rest of my loads here to be sent for.
2nd. — Busy packing and making ready, as some of my very
small company may change their minds if I delay long here.
4th. — Paid a visit to. the chieftainess, and arranged with her
about leaving some of my loads. She promised to take every
care of them.
On returning to camp in the evening I was distressed to find

164 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
my men negotiating with some wild Balunda for a woman slave
and child (a little boy of five or six years). The woman had
been bargained for, but the price of the child was disputed. At
last the Balunda said they would not sell the child, and were
pulling him out of the arms of his mother, who was clutching
him frantically. At this I interfered, and stopped the pro
ceedings. They took the hint; for before I had time to look
round me, they snatched up their cloth, including the price
offered for the child, and cleared away from the camp. This
slave-buying is a wretched, business. I am utterly powerless to
interfere in the matter. It is seldom, however, that they purchase
in camp ; they usually go off to the villages to do this. Many
of the Bihe traders say that they would rather have slaves than
ivory. Every caravan we pass has strings of slaves.
6th. — Have sent fifteen loads to Nana's village, and am pre
paring to start to-morrow.
1th. — I stayed in camp again, hoping to hear of some carriers
from this part.
MARCH FOR THE LUALABA WITH EIGHT CARRIERS.
January 8th.- — Started this morning in fair style with eight
brave carriers for the fifteen days' long march to the Lualaba — a
risky journey to undertake, as we shall meet with no food by the
way except that which I may procure with my gun. For my
part, I am glad to be off, as I have been suffering the whole
time at Nana Kandundu from my old Zambesi remittent fever, '
which shows me clearly that anywhere near the Zambesi is not
the place for me. Marched for six hours; camped at Kami-
sambu by the Loungash. Here there are a few Balunda, but I
only saw one man.
10th. — Marched for eight hours through beautiful country,
more tropical-looking than any other part of Africa I have been
in. Small rivers without number. During the day we were
overtaken by several tremendous showers of rain, soaking every
one and everything thoroughly.
I got into camp at Maringa, feeling so cold that I was sure an
attack of fever awaited me ; but a big fire, a dose of quinine, and
a cup of hot tea brought me round.
nth. — Made a late start this morning. Had some trouble

i886.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 165
in arranging my carriers' loads. They were all overladen with
meal, and blamed my loads for breaking their backs. Crossed
the Luake, a large and rapid stream, but with much trouble,
as there was a cataract at this point.
12th. — Reached Sacindonga early this morning. Here I met
with a few wandering Balunda, but the country is practically
desolate. Remains of former towns and large cultivated fields,
now all weeds, exist on all sides. War parties from the Lovale,
led chiefly by Kangombe, have wrought these devastations.
13th. — Remain in camp this morning, as one of my carriers
is ill, and the rest go off foraging for food in villages some
distance away.
14th. — Marched this morning until mid-day. Camped at a
place called Tambwe. No signs of inhabitants anywhere.
iffh. — A toilsome day's journey. We lost our way, and
wandered some hours before getting back to the path again.
Camped about four in the evening.
16th. — Pushed on and made two ordinary days' journey in one,
reaching a camp very late, but only to find it occupied by a company
of Bihe' traders from the Garenganze. They say I am now within
sixteen days' journey of my destination — most welcome news.
ilth. — In camp to-day. Men have gone off to the Zambesi
River, which is quite near, to seek for food. We are all very
tired, and want rest.
18th. — Camped early, as rain threatened.
igth. — This morning I gave up my ox to a lad in the company,
who had been bought by one of my men at Nana Kandundu, and
could not walk further. The carriers could not very well under
stand my doing so, as the white men to whom they are
accustomed, generally advocate in such cases leaving the poor
wretches to perish by the roadside. Reached the ill-famed
camping-place of "Olohosi" in the afternoon. The name means
"The Lions." There are many stories about natives camping
here and being seized while asleep and carried off by lions.
An extra barricade was built round the camp with great pains.
A house had to be made for my ox, and every precaution
was taken by my credulous crew, so that the lions had little
prospect of supping at our expense that night.
Though many of the more " daring '' of our number thought

1 66 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
they heard the monsters roaring at a distance during the night, I
think that they have long since taken their departure from
Olohosi, as, judging from the number of barricades, other passing
travellers seem to have been as much on their guard against
affording the lions a meal as we were.
202VL— My men were longer getting astir this morning than
usual. We generally start about the time of the " cooing of the
pigeons," but we did not this morning until " the dew was dry."
Crossed the Lokoshe River, about twenty yards wide here. It
flows into the Luburi, which empties itself into the Lualaba,
so that I am now within the lines of the Congo Free State,
and am doubtless the first white man who has crossed this way.
PRESSED BY HUNGER.
January 2 ist. — We have been now twelve days in this hungry
country. The few beans we were able to bring from Sacindonga
did not last long, and our sacks of cassava meal, bought at Nana
Kandundu, are almost finished. I had hoped to have shot some
game, but nothing is to be seen, not even the spoor of any.
We were therefore forced to press on without losing any time.
The bodies of two natives by the roadside, who had evidently
died of hunger, certainly did not encourage us,- though it was a
warning for my men to take longer marches.
22nd. — Crossed the Luburi this morning — a heavy stream, thirty-
five feet wide — upon a fairly good bridge. Camped at Kapa.
Our food being now used up, all the carriers started off, as soon
as we got into camp, for some Samba villages reported to be
further down the Luburi ; we hope they will return to-morrow.
2377/. — Men returned with only a few cassava roots.
Still pressing on. Crossed the Lufupa river about mid-day,
and camped at dusk. We had scarcely made a shelter for the
goods when the rain came down in sheets. The night was
pitch dark; there was nothing but forest all round; every one
was tired out, and we had no shelter. We managed, however, to
go to sleep, and forget our hunger and destitution.
a merciful supply.
January 24th.— Men all gone off in search of Samba villages.
I started on ahead with one man to look for game, following

1886.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 167
a long while on the track of a zebra, encouraged even by its
fresh footprints ; but as they led across a marsh I gave up, and
went on towards our next camping-place. When crossing a small
flat I saw four pigs in the distance. Creeping up on all-fours I
managed to get within one hundred and twenty yards of them,
when they saw me and prepared to clear off. As one young
hog turned to take another look at me, I took aim and fired. The
lead entered his breast and traversed the whole body. The old
hog turned back in a great rage to look after his fellow, when
another bullet from my gun pierced his two shoulders, and he lay
down with his head resting on the other. They were both of
the wart-hog species; the old one a splendid animal, weighing
over 200 lbs., and having tusks a foot in length. Thus the Lord
delivered me and my men from sinking from sheer hunger ; for
we had nothing to eat.
When my men came along I had the greatest difficulty in
keeping them off the meat ; some were tearing it and eating
it raw like wolves.
The country here is very beautiful, the forest not so dense,
and the hills high and richly clad to the tops. Though this is
the hottest time of the year the nights are quite cold. I never
sleep without a fire in my hut," though I have blankets enough.
During the day a cool breeze is always blowing. I presume the
altitude is considerable.
2Sfh. — Marched but a short way. I shall not soon forget the
hearty expressions the men threw out one to the other as they
marched along in Indian file this morning. "Don't you re
member what things we said of the white man and his God?
What names we called them ! But the white man's God has not
only been with us, but has filled our bellies with pig-meat.''
And so their eyes were not closed ; they were willing to acknow
ledge that God had fed them.
Kasoma's wife is taken seriously ill. How she is to be got
along I know not.
26th. — Made another short march to the Muilo copper mines.
Some of the men have gone back to carry Kasoma's wife in a
hammock. 2 ith. — Remained in camp. Men gone off in search of
food.

1 68 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
A DISAPPOINTMENT.
January 28th. — Started this morning early with two of my men
to look for game ; had gone but a short way when I saw that, up a
valley, some animals were moving about in the long grass. Taking
a round through the bush with one of my men I got up, by dint
of careful stalking, close to the animals, when, to my surprise, I
found myself in front of five full-grown leopards. I refrained
from shooting, as their flesh could not have been of use, and
I have no license to fight with wild animals. Four of the
leopards cantered off at first sight of me ; the old one remained,
and seemed as if he would attack me, swinging his tail about
and crouching. I kept my ground calmly, about twenty yards
from him, with my rifle cocked. As soon, however, as he saw
his four relatives off at a safe distance, he trotted slowly after
them, then broke into a canter. Got into camp, late and tired.
Kasoma's wife is riding on my ox to-day; it is the ambulance
animal of the company. THE LUALABA RIVER.
January 2gth. — Crossing a hill this morning we came in full
sight of the valley of the Lualaba — a beautiful view indeed.
An hour's journey along the bank of the river brought us
to the ferry. We were all taken over without delay, and at length
I set foot on Garenganze soil. Mangala, the chief of the ferry
(who is here in place of Kasembe), received me well, cooking
some food for me, and showing' real hospitality.
The appearance of this man, and of his village, favourably
impress me in view of future stay in this country.
30th. — Rested to-day. A hunter brought in the meat of a
buffalo, so we have food enough. A relative of Msidi sent a
large basket of beans, and having also bought some onions,
I managed with the help of Dick to prepare quite a sumptuous
feast. DEATH OF KASOMA'S WIFE.
This afternoon we were saddened by the death of Kasoma's
wife. News has also come in, of the killing of Kasembe, of
Lake Moero (bearing the same name as the one just mentioned
in connection with the Lualaba ferry), a chief who has long been

1886.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 169
a sworn enemy of Msidi, till lately wandering at large with a few
followers and hunted by the Garenganze.
Kasoma'e wife was buried. My men went through the usual
ceremony of questioning the corpse as to the cause of death.
The answer was that a female slave, iong since dead, had come
to take her, because at the slave's death no drums were beaten.
This reply was made out from the varied jerkings of the pole to
which the corpse was tied, and which was borne on the shoulders
of two men.
February ist. — After a long march this morning, we camped
during a drenching rain.
2nd. — Reached Moelo's town. All were delighted when we
came to fields of corn and abundance of food — a very pleasant
sight after so many days of hunger while passing through a
deserted country.
3rd. — Remained in camp ; my men eating to their hearts'
content. Moelo sent me three baskets of corn and half a
wild hog. MOLENGA.
February 4th. — Marched to-day through beautiful hilly country.
Camped in a hollow surrounded by steep hills, within two hours'
march of Molenga's old town. I had sent a man on ahead yes
terday to advise Molenga of my coming, as is the custom. To my
surprise I had not been in camp more than ten minutes when
people came to meet me, carrying loads of food — maize-corn,
pumpkins, fresh beans, all cooked, and a load of corn besides.
efh. — Arrived at Molenga's old town; he has built another,
an hour's journey further on. He sent a headman to greet me,
and in the evening his three drummers came to escort us in our
visit to him on the morrow. Molenga is the second man in the
Garenganze kingdom, captain of the forces, etc.
6th. — Scarcely had we reached Molenga's this morning and
built our camp when the Chief's present arrived : a tooth of
ivory (about 30 lbs.), a good fat goat, and twenty-nine loads of
corn — enough to disconcert me ; for I had only given him as yet
eight yards of calico.
My first thought was to return the ivory, but all protested
loudly against my doing so, saying I could not offer Molenga a
greater insult. I went to greet the chief with nothing in my hand,

170 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
and was welcomed most warmly. He rose and gave me his seat,
saying again "and again, how glad he was to see me and how
welcome I was to the Garenganze country.
1th. — Sent Molenga a present this morning, though nothing
like the value of the ivory and food he gave me. Still he
seems quite satisfied, and says that it is myself and not my
goods that they welcome. A HEALTHY SIGHT.
February 8th. — Upon going up to the chief's house this morning
I was surprised to find none but women about the place. The
natural conclusion was that the men were all away hunting ; but no,
they were all off in the fields with Molenga. Taking the path to
the fields I found Molenga in the midst of a considerable clearing,
directing twenty-five stalwart men, with long-handled hoes, which
they were using in fine style, hoeing to the beat of a drum. It
was what might be called a healthy sight. I sat down and talked
awhile with the chief. In a short time women came with baskets
of roasted corn for the hoers' breakfast. They tell me that it is
the regular custom in this country for the men to do all the heavy
work of tilling, and the women to do the after-work of clearing,
etc., with light short-handled hoes.
gth. — Marched again this morning, and camped at Kalasa's
town, on the east bank of the Lukuruwe river. Some messengers
came into camp, sent by Msidi to overtake a company of his
men, bound for Bihe, whom we met yesterday. It seems that
one of the company, while stealing food in a field, killed a man
who was attempting to defend his corn. On hearing of this
Msidi sent to stop the men ; not so much that the murderer
might be punished as that certain rites might be performed to
remove the stain of innocent blood. Otherwise some disaster
might have befallen the party.
10th. — A toilsome march through beautiful hills. To the
south lay the Sombwe Hill and others beyond, in which are the
inhabited caves, which Livingstone was on his way to visit when
death overtook him on the south of Lake Bangweolo.
nth. — A long tramp over very rough mountain country brought
us to Uleya, only one day's journey from our destination.
12th. — Sent Kasoma with letter to Msidi and 26 yards of cloth.

i886.]

From Benguella to Garenganze.

i/i

13th. — Marched to Kufigofo. Towards the end ofthe journey
the road lay through well-tilled gardens for three miles.
A frightful storm came down shortly after we had camped and
threatened to swamp everything. The cooking business was
paralysed ; we had to go to bed with what supper could other
wise be provided. My man Kasoma returned from Msidi with-a
small tooth of very white ivory, to indicate how white the king's
heart was towards me. JOURNEY ENDED.
February 14th. — A short journey brought us close to the capital.
I was shown a hill close by where I might build. On getting to
the spot it pleased me every way. It was in the midst of villages,
on high ground, commanding a view of the whole country, but
not difficult of approach.
February i$th, 1886. — Late this morning the king's messenger,
who had come in the morning with promises of food, returned to
say that, as the food had not arrived, Msidi had sent a small tooth
of ivory to keep my heart up !

View from Mr. Arnot's Cottage.

V.
g»tap tn ©arenganje.
(Feb., 1886, to Feb., 1888.)
Tests of my Sincerity— Public Reception — Arab Traders — Site for a House
Offered — Visits in Neighbourhood — The Two Ways — My Household —
Return of Fever — In Search of Food — A Change in Dick — The Blessings of
Rain— Msidi's Rule— Waste of Corn— Polygamy — New Year's Reflections —
The Sombwe Caves — Hyenas in Camp — -Msidi's Reception-Day — Baptism
of Dick- — Arabs' Camp — Hungry Visitors — Death of Johnny — Charms for
Caravan Journey — Adventure with Lion — Msidi's Kindness — Slave Chil
dren — How Saddle and Boots were Provided — Susi Baptized — Executions
— A Night alone with Wild Animals — Surgical Operation — Two Years'
Letters — Brethren at hand — Mataya and her Son Pardoned — Prepare for
Fellow-Labourers — Mr. Swan's Notes — Interview with Msidi — Queen
Chitompa's Return from War — Visit to England proposed.
TESTS OF MY SINCERITY.
February i$th, 1886. — I expected to have had an early interview
with the king, but discovered that it was not the custom to receive
entire strangers at once, so I was placed in a sort of quarantine.
During this time they were deciding, according to their own
wisdom and skill, whether my intentions in coming to the country
were good or bad, and whether my heart was as white as my
skin. Diviners and doctors from far and near were employed for
this purpose.
Some of their tests were certainly rather childish, though they
had a grim humour about them. One was the placing of a little
piece of bark at night in a certain decoction of some carefully
compounded native medicines. Next morning, if this piece of
bark appeared quite sound, it would show that my heart was
sound, and that I had come to the Garenganze country without
evil intentions. If, however, this little fragment of bark turned
out to be unsound, or in any way decomposed, it would have

Feb. 1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 173
proved that my heart was rotten, and that I was not to be
trusted. Another test was on this wise.: They cut off the head of a
live fowl, which was then thrown into the middle of the yard,
and the diviner, watching its dying struggles, judged as to my
designs from the position in which it lay when dead. If the
neck had pointed in the direction of my Camp, danger from that
quarter would have been indicated; but if not, then I and
my companions were clear. It so happened that after some days
of such ceremonies and tests all things turned out in my favour.
They had nothing against me, and so were willing to obey their
king's command and unite in giving me a hearty welcome to their
country. PUBLIC RECEPTION.
On the day appointed for my reception by Msidi I rode down
on my ox to the chief's town, meeting on the way large companies
of people, who had come to greet me and my eight men, who
* had been careful to dress in their best for the occasion. At last
we reached the yard where Msidi was awaiting me. I found him
an old-looking man, with rather a pleasant, smooth face, and
a short beard, quite white. As I approached he rose from his
chair and came forward to meet me, folding his arms round me in
the most fatherly way ; indeed, his reception was quite affecting.
Behind and on either side of him were large companies of
women ; these he introduced to me as his wives, of whom he has
in all some five hundred. After the ceremony of shaking hands
with wives, brothers, cousins, and other relatives was over, he
sent for the nurse of one of his children, who brought a child
about eighteen months old. This little boy was placed by Msidi
upon my knee before all the company as his present, and he
assured me that he was my child henceforth. Yota is the child's
name. I was rather pleased with the appearance of Msidi's sons.
Indeed, all his family and people are wonderfully well behaved
for Africans. Immorality is, of course, very great ; but respectful,
courteous behaviour towards one another is insisted upon by the
king. He opposes all hashish smoking, and is not favourable
to the use of tobacco in any form. He insists upon his sons
acquiring a knowledge of useful employments. Kalasa, the

174 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
oldest, is quite a skilful worker in horn, making out of the
horns of large animals powder flasks neatly mounted with copper
and brass. Another of Msidi's sons is a proficient blacksmith.
Their livelihood does not depend upon these trades, but they
are followed as accomplishments.
The male portion of Msidi's communities, as I have already
mentioned, have to do a large share of the manual labour, and
the part Msidi takes in this is very commendable. Not only
does he go to the fields with his people to labour, but he
encourages his own sons to work, and so makes labour honour
able. I have seen him go out every day with a large band of
hoers for weeks together, and often stand in the middle of
the field when rain was falling heavily, watching the workers. At
other times his people would have left their work for shelter, but
when Msidi was there they had to be " wet-weather soldiers."
ARAB TRADERS.
During my first interview with the king I was introduced to
several traders, of Arab descent, from Zanzibar. The Arabs
have been long in communication with the Garenganze country,
which is known to them as " Katanga," famous all over Eastern
Africa for its copper and salt. Arab caravans come from Lake
Tanganyika in the north for copper to supply the markets of
Uganda, the country in which Bishop Hannington was murdered.
I found that these Arabs made good use of their time at
Katanga in promulgating infamous stories about the English.
They were, I was told, most assiduous in their efforts to poison
the mind of Msidi against me in particular, when they heard of
my coming. After listening to a long harangue from them,
however, he quickly replied, " I am sure I cannot answer your
words. I do not know these English people. I certainly do not
know this man who is now coming; but one thing I know — I
know you Arabs." So he was prepared to suspend judgment
concerning me from his knowledge of the men who were seeking
to prejudice him against me.
DECLARE MY OBJECT IN COMING.
I had soon several interviews with Msidi, and was able by
degrees to make known to him, in the Umbundu dialect, which he

1 886.] Stay in Garenganze. 175
understands very well, my object in coming to his country. He
had heard of Livingstone's approach from the east, and of his
death at Ilala, and was much interested when I told him that I
was a man of peace like Livingstone, and hailed from the same
country and town. 'I also told him that I was willing to remain
among his people, and to send back Cinyama, with the few men
who had come with me, to Bihe, to bring on others who might
think of joining me in this country.
It was difficult, of course, in a few interviews fully to disclose
to a mind so dark my true object in coming to the country.
And I sought for special wisdom to explain to him the nature
of my message, waiting for a suitable opportunity to present
itself. I feared that were I to keep back from his ears the more
bitter and pungent things in connection with the story of man's
ruin and God's love, until afterwards, he would conclude that I
had knowingly deceived him. One day he asked me to breakfast
at his house, and our conversation went on, as at other times,
respecting the nature and reality of God's existence. I then
spoke to him in words like these : " Great and mighty chief as
you are in the eyes of men, in the sight of God there is no
difference between you and the poorest, vilest slave in your
country, and you need God's mercy just as he does." My words
impressed him, and I was uncertain for a few moments as to the
result. At last, with an effort, he leaned forward thoughtfully,
and said, " It must be so, if God is as great as you say ; and if
He is so high above us all, then we must be all the same in His
sight" Instead of driving me away from him, we were, through this
plain speaking, drawn closer together, and our conversations
became more frequent and interesting.
CHOICE OF SITE FOR A HOUSE OFFERED.
By way of confirming his hearty welcome to me to remain in
his country, Msidi asked me to take my choice of sites in the
neighbourhood of his great Mukurru. I determined not to do so
hastily, but to make a few excursions in the neighbourhood.
Accordingly I started, on March 29th, along the banks of the
Unkeya. In the afternoon we reached the Lunsala district,
where Marie, one of Msidi's wives, a mulatto from Bihe, has her

176 Seven Years in Central Africfl. [April,
village and her many retainers. Thus far I was accompanied by
one of the king's sons, who went for the purpose of introducing
me to this important wife of his. This part of the Mukurru is
flat and fertile, and it was interesting to see the great stretches of
fields of millet-corn to the right and left.
Having remained in that neighbourhood for a day, I pro
ceeded on my journey to the Lufira river. That evening I
encamped on the banks of the Unkeya ; and next morning, after
a rather tiresome march over a very flat and thickly-wooded
country, passing by the way fresh spoors of elephants on either
side of us, I reached the Lufira. This river flows through a great
grassy plain, more or less flooded during the rainy season, but dry
in the summer and abounding with large herds of game. On the
east side of the river there is a majestic range of mountains,
rising abruptly from the plain to a height of about 3000 feet.
There were many villages along the Lufira, small and poorly
built, and occupied chiefly by Lamba fishermen. I shot some
animals for the men who were with me.. The large herds of
zebra, buffalo, and all kinds of antelope was a sight not readily
forgotten. It is strange to find so many animals within thirty
miles of so large a community of . people as that found at
Msidi's. Upon my return to the capital, having visited all the more
likely places for a suitable site, I determined to build my cottage
on the hill where it now stands. Some passages from the diary
of this period will show how I proceeded.
COMMENCE BUILDING.
April tfh.— Began clearing the ground, my object being to
put my cottage up before Cinyama goes to the coast. Though
Msidi promises me every help from his people, they are not so
accustomed to build as the Ovimbundu. While some of the
men who have come with me return to Nana Kandundu, with
extra porters provided by Msidi, others will remain here to help
in building.
After measuring out a piece of ground 30 feet by 15 I began
to dig a deep trench for the foundation. The lads found nothing
but rock under the surface, so that it was laborious work picking
and digging a trench deep enough to well imbed the poles which

1886.]

Stay in Garenganze.

177

i78

Seven Years in Central Africa.

[April,

were to form the walls of the house. Whilst a few of us
busied ourselves in digging out this trench others went to the
bush to cut the poles, and for each one brought in I paid them
, 20 beads. The poles were then cut into equal lengths, and set
• up in the trench close together, in the same way as the fences of
old railway-sleepers we are accustomed to see. Two openings
were left for windows, and one large space in the middle for a
door. Across the poles the men placed small canes, something
like bamboo, which were bound on with cords of bark. These
acted as laths in supporting the mud with which the walls were
afterwards thickly plastered. The rafters I made of split teak
wood, over which transverse slips of cane were bound, and the
whole was carefully thatched with grass. A spacious verandah,
six feet in width, I found of great service in promoting the circu
lation of cool air around the walls of the house. The doors were
made of hewn planks.

The Cottage.

1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 179
I may here remark that the Ovimbundu carpenters can make
two very good planks out of one tree. Their mode of doing
so may be thus described. They first make a V cut along
one side of the log, directed towards the heart of the tree.
When they have carried this" incision as far as they can with their
short little axes they roll the log over, and begin at the opposite
side, making another similar incision. As the points of these two
Vs meet in the centre of the log it falls asunder, with the help of
a little wedging. Each side is then levelled by the axes, which
are so made that the blade can be turned at a right angle to the
handle, and used as an adze. By this means they dress down
both sides of each half-log, and make two good planks from one
tree.* April 22nd. — Alarming news reached me to-day about the
little company I sent off to Nana Kandundu. One of their
number came running into camp in a great state of excitement,
saying he had travelled from the Lualaba river in four days, and
that the lives of my Bihe men were in danger. News had also
come that three Garenganze caravans had been plundered and
many men killed — one at Bihe", another in the Lovale country,
the third in the Lunda country, but all at the instigation of Bihe
chiefs and traders, who thought that they had been unjustly
dealt with in certain business transactions they had with Msidi.
I went down to confer on the matter with the king, but he had
little to say, so there is not much prospect of getting the few
loads I left at Nana Kandundu brought on at present.
As soon as these troubles are in some way settled I hope to
send Cinyama to Bihe". VISITS IN NEIGHBOURHOOD.
May ith. — Went to visit Kagoma, a small chief on the
Lukuruwe river, two good days' journey from Msidi's capital.
Kalasa, the chief's son, went with me. I rode across the great
plain, which extends out towards the north. Being the dry
season, water was somewhat scarce, and the country we passed
through was very arid and barren-looking. Kagoma has been
suffering for many years from leprous sores. He was very
* Large saws have since been sent, and will save much labour in making
planks.

i8o

Seven Years in Central Africa.

[May,

anxious that I should do what I could for him, and in return he
fairly loaded me with presents of food, corn, rice, goats, etc.
I remained for some days with him, and quite enjoyed the
change and the opportunity thus afforded of learning the
language of the people. Returned on the 16th to my camp.

E x ("e n sivje

vT;"

,?>

P \/i it n s

>,

MUKURRU

* «Chipenza /»
?.?•A-

Ro&d from BlW

M o u n fa i n s

c

c
O

J

District Around the Mukurru.
(The dot -within a ring shows tha position of Mr. Arnot's Cottage.)
May 23rd. — Have been in bed nearly all this week with fever;
am feeling better this morning.
June ith. — Able to start on a short excursion in a south
easterly direction to-day. After getting beyond the fertile valley
of the Unkeya the country became very rough and mountainous.

1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 181
We had a toilsome journey before we reached the crest of this
rugged range. On doing so, however, we were rewarded with
an extensive view of the beautiful valley of the Luife, lying
to the south, where there are many villages. Descending as
quickly as possible, for night was coming upon us, I made
for the first village ; but we were rather unfortunate in our host.
He turned out to be an old aristocrat of the country, now
sadly reduced, and was anything but glad to see us, being more
inclined to partake of our food than to allow us to share his.
Nevertheless, we got a shelter of some kind. I cooked a little
rice, which I had brought with me, and made an early start
next morning.
On reaching Kalolo the effect of our appearance was quite
amusing. The poor people there had evidently never seen a
white man before, for they seemed very uncertain about me, and
stood a long way off, gazing in groups. The young men who
were with me spent their strength in vain efforts to assure them
that no danger was to be anticipated from my presence. A large
hut was provided for me, and plenty of raw food laid down, and
¦their headman, Monkobe, came in towards evening. He seemed
to be much more reasonable than the others, and told his wife to
cook me food, which she did, and to their astonishment I partook
of it. Few were willing, nevertheless, to sleep in their town that
night. It was enough to have seen my footprint on the path.
" His feet are not like men's feet ; they are like those of the
zebra," they said. In the evening I kindled a large fire in front
of my hut, knowing something of the attraction this is to these
poor naked people, and after sitting some time I saw it had
an effect A little group gathered on the other side of the
fire, and through the smoke and flames I with difficulty dis
tinguished their eyes from their mouths; as all were wide open.
The numbers gradually increased, until they were no longer able
to hide themselves behind the fire ; and watching my opportunity,
I began a conversation with them through a young man I had
with me as interpreter, but a sorry helper he was. His debauchery
became so abominable that I had literally to drive him off.
Before returning to my camp I visited a few other villages, and
met from time to time with strange receptions. One man, who
had heard the night before of the coming of this "son of the

1 82 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
great spirit," appeared with a pot of small beer, hastily prepared,
and after politely requesting us to refresh ourselves with his gift,
told me that some of his children had gone along the road upon
which we were travelling some days before, and as there was
a possibility of our meeting them as they returned, he hoped
I would not capture or rob them.
Upon getting back to my camp I was laid down with another
attack of bilious fever. The swollen state of my spleen probably
disposes me to these attacks, but I cannot blame the climate
of Garenganze. Msidi sent up a message of sympathy, with
a present of four young pigeons, and an urgent request for me
on no account to take medicine from native doctors, lest I should
be poisoned. THE TWO WAYS.
July 21th. — Having recovered somewhat, I was able to go
in my hammock to visit the village of Chipenza, a few hours'
journey north of my camp. Here I spent a couple of days, and
suffered severely from headaches. The headman of this town
understands Umbundu fairly well, and so do some of the
young men of the village. During a long afternoon's talk
in the yard the "two ways" of Scripture was the subject I
tried to make plain to them. I pointed out the crookedness
of their ways — deception, lying, stealing, murdering, etc.,
with their trust in idols and fetish things to deliver them
from the penalty of their deeds; and in contrast I showed
the straitness and evenness of God's ways. At the end of each
sentence the headman turned to explain all I had said to the
villagers. One bright-looking young man, on hearing the de
scription of God's ways, replied, with much animation, "A
road to run on !" How often it is that those we seek to teach,
teach us ! HEALTHINESS OF LOCALITY.
But I must close, as Cinyama and Kasoma are expecting to
get off shortly for Bihe". The fact that my health, during this
dry season, has been very uncertain, and has broken down several
times, must not give you the impression that this country is
unhealthy ; on the contrary, I consider it to be as healthy as
any part of Central Africa I have been in. There are no malarial
swamps anywhere near. During the hot rainy season I enjoyed

'886.] Stay in Garenganze. 183
the best of health, and that is considered the most unhealthy
period for Europeans, but my constitution, already impaired from
my stay in the Barotse, seemingly cannot stand the dry and, at
times, cold winds of this season. I do not think that a new
comer with healthy blood in his veins would be at all affected by
these winds ; neither do I think that I shall suffer so much when
my house is finished and plastered. In the meantime I am
living in a grass hut.
My journal up to this point will at least serve to show that the
country is open and the people accessible. My progress in the
languages has been, contrary to my expectations, slow and diffi
cult. The people are shy, and do not come readily to me, but I
am ever welcome among them ; in the meantime, however, poor
health prevents me from visiting them as often as I would wish.
I much more enjoy visiting among the villages than in the capital,
which is almost wholly under "the sway of the king's wives, who
are given to vicious and dissolute habits. Indeed, I am com
pelled, from reasons of propriety, to abstain from visiting their
compounds, even when invited, unless accompanied by a messen
ger from Msidi. MY HOUSEHOLD.
Shortly after my recovery, Dick was taken seriously ill. I was
not able to attend to him as I would have wished, but the other
children did all they could for him. His illness was, however,
the death-blow to my stock of fowls. These are' very plentiful in
Garenganze, and I bought a large number of them on my arrival,
hoping by careful breeding to raise a good stock. During my
illness quite a number had been cooked, and now when Dick
was laid down> all that remained were used in preparing chicken
soup for him.
My other little boy, Johnny, was bought by Kasoma in the
Lunda country without my knowledge; I saw he was a bright
little fellow, and took him from Kasoma. Though young, he
does a wonderful amount of work, and is very intelligent ; says
he is going to learn to write. Besides being very active, he is
about the prettiest black boy I have seen. •
The third, Segunda, is a mere infant. When brought to my
camp here for sale, no one would have him, so at last they brought
him on to my hut which was outside the rest I turned the man

184 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
away as usual, saying I did not buy people, but back he came,
beseeching me to relieve him of this little burden ; he had been
taken in war, and his captor was going off on another errand,
and wished to be rid of him. I would not believe that the boy
was captured without his mother; he, however, insisted that it
was so. I sent Kasoma to find out, and he reported that there
was no appearance of the child's mother; so I bought him for
four yards of white calico. He has ever since been ailing, can
seldom be made to smile, and only looks up half tearfully with
his large dark eyes. By his language I judge that he belongs to
some far-off tribe, but we have not been able by any amount of
compromise to come to an understanding with each other yet.
Chinze, the fourth little one, was bought by a Bihe" trader, had
been suffering for long from very sore feet, and was quite unable
to go with the rest to Bihe. The man asked me to take care of
her until his return, a year or so hence, but I would not consent
to do so unless he made the child over to me, as I could not think
of giving her up again after a year. We finally agreed on the
matter, so the little girl Chinze is now mine. Were I to give her
up, she would just be sold at the coast ; I think I shall manage
to cure the feet within a month or two. At this rate, in this
centre of the slave traffic, there is no saying what the limits of
my family will be. These last two little things, Segunda and
Chinze, have been, I may say, forced upon me. I cannot but
acknowledge the hand of God in the matter-; it will hinder me
from going round among the villages as I might otherwise do ;
still, the training of these is of the utmost importance, and will
tell directly on the work in the years to come, if the Lord permit
SLAVE BUYING.
The Bihe men who are still with me are anxious to be off to
their own country, and I shall be glad to see them away.
They would have left long ere this, but were afraid of being
molested by the Garenganze, because of the treatment the latter
have received at Bihe\ Keeping them all these months has been
a great expense and trial to me. When we arrived here in
February, I gave each of my men so many beads, besides
cloth, promising them that I would try and procure for each one
a small tooth of ivory before they left, provided they did not

1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 185
spend the beads and cloth in buying slaves, but kept them for
food. You can imagine, then, how disappointed I was, when I
saw them, without exception, selling all they had — even stripping
themselves, and putting on sackcloth — to find the wherewithal to
buy slaves. Thus, the number of mouths in my camp has been
trebled, while the means to provide for them has been reduced.
The camp has ever since been a regular slave-pen ; I have put
my hut outside of it, and given the people of the country to
understand that I have nothing to do with this slave-buying and
tying-up business. I have done what I can to keep my men
supplied, though it has cost me all that I had, even to my bed-
sheets and spare clothing, and my own food has been like theirs
all the while. SOME LEFT LOADS RETURNED.
August 2nd. — Five of the loads I left at Nana Kandundu were
brought oh to-day. Cinyama's men, who had escaped at the
time of the scare that took place six weeks previously at the
Lualaba river, had gone on to Nana Kandundu, not thinking to
return. But changing their minds, they proposed to the old lady
that she should deliver up to them some of my loads, and they
would return to Garenganze in search of their relatives.
She not only complied with their request, but sent one or two
of her own people with them.
I heard of the robbery of a small bale of cloth which I had
left at Nana Kandundu. It appears that a half-caste Portuguese
had presented a letter to the chieftainess, purporting to be from
me, and upon this false representation he got her to deliver up to
him a valuable bale of cloth. Beads are, however, very valuable
in this country, and a fair supply of them has just been brought
to me. These will enable me to push forward with the building
of my house. CINYAMA DISPATCHED WITH LETTERS.
August 23rd. — Sent off Cinyama and Kasoma with letters for
home, and careful instructions to look out for any white man in
Bihe or at the coast who might be enquiring for me. I referred
him also to Mr. Sanders, of the American Mission, for guidance.
Msidi sent by Cinyama a verbal message to bring in, with all
speed, any " brother " of mine that he might find. He also

1 86 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Aug.
urged upon me to receive a large tooth of ivory, and send it
out by Cinyama. After carefully considering the matter, I de
clined to receive the ivory, feeling assured that it would not
have been wise to do so. All Africans naturally expect a large
return for any present given by them, and we have enough
difficulty in getting from the coast to the interior actually
needful things, so great is the cost and labour of transit. When,
however, Msidi pressed me for a reply, I said that I was in
God's service, and wished to keep free from being under obli
gation to anyone. RETURN OF FEVER.
No sooner had Cinyama left, than I had a very severe attack
of fever, which laid me quite low for nearly a month. It was
during the dry season, and the nearest water was some three
miles distant. Turning my book-box into a bath, I managed to
keep down the temperature by taking hot baths.
A young man named Susi, who had just come from Bihe', was
of great service in helping my lad Dick to carry water for me.
In one night these two lads went three times to the watering-
place, giving me as many hot baths during the night. Next
morning my temperature was much lowered, and though very
weak, I was evidently recovering. I proved at this time the
value of a simple food made of Indian corn meal, boiled into
a thick gruel, to which was added the juice from a root, ex
tracted by pounding. In a few hours the juice had the effect
of converting the gruel into a thick, sweet, milk-like fluid, the
hard part of the grain being deposited in the form of gritty, un
palatable dregs. Msidi was very kind to me during this time,
and repeatedly sent messengers urging me to move my habitation
nearer to his, that he might be better able to visit me when sick.
Towards the end of October I recovered somewhat.
A peculiar feature of this slow remittent fever is sleeplessness.
I spent long sleepless nights, when the mind, wandering inces
santly, was almost always at home. If I happened to fall into a
dreamy sleep I was at once there, perhaps in a sunny, snow-
white bed, with a big fire blazing in the room, and my mother
bringing in a tray full of the most delightful jellies, etc. All
my sickness would disappear, and =1 would delight in the
miraculous return of health and strength. Opening my eyes I

1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 187
found nothing but a dark, dreary, confined hut around me, and
the wind blowing through piteously, and moaning in the branches
of the tree above. My days, however, were not spent unhappily,
or my nights, for that matter. I had much quiet peace of mind
and pleasure in the study of the Word, which indeed was my
chief employment, as I was not able to do much out of doors.
My hope is, that the Lord will give me grace and patience to
hold the ground until others come forward to help in the work,
and that I may be enabled to remain by them for their help and
encouragement. Time, indeed, seems to be nothing so long as
He gives the grace and patience to wait. Last night, when in
prayer, I was greatly refreshed by a realization of the exceeding
abundance and sufficiency of His grace in every possible emer
gency-— in " every time of need " — and I was enabled to ask for
perfect and enduring contentment under all circumstances.
I and my boys are entirely alone, all the Biheans having gone
off. The Garenganze are exceedingly slow in coming to me;
still a few do come. We are longing intensely for rain ; the sun
is scorching, and the ground gets as hot as coals in a fire. To
add to my troubles, Dick has been taken ill, and is quite laid
aside. To-day I have had two men employed in covering my house
with grass ; it is much better now, and I hope to have it finished
within another month.
October 3rd. — This morning Dick came hobbling on a stick
to greet me with a smile on his face. This is the first day he
has been able to get out
THE ROUTE TO NYASSA.
In the afternoon I spent a short time with Msidi, who sent to
invite an Arab trader to meet me. I found this man quite a
pure Arab, rather pleasant-looking. He said he had come from
close to Mozambique, and had crossed Lake Nyassa, where he
saw two steam-launches and many English people, , and had met
one English lady. Lake Nyassa is two months' journey from this,
he tells me, and describes the route as safe, and says that food is
plentiful.* * Of late the agents of the African Lakes Company and the missionaries, as
well as the natives, have grievously suffered from Arab attacks, and all hope of
communication with Lake Nyassa is cut off for the present,

1 8 8 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
HUNTING UNDER DIFFICULTIES.
October 21st. — Have just returned from a week's trip to the
Lufira. I shot two zebras with which to pay the men who had
carried me in my hammock. Not having sufficient strength to go
out hunting, the men promised that they would carry me in my
hammock to where the game were to be found — a much more
arduous task than carrying one along a beaten track. Seeing
they persisted, I was willing to give them a chance of having some
fresh meat ; and we all started early in the morning, the men
pushing their way through the colossal grasses. The jagged roots
punished the feet of my men severely, because of the heavy
weight of my hammock-pole on their shoulders. After travelling
some miles in this manner, those who had gone on ahead returned
to say that we must go softly, as we were near some game. Soon
we came in sight of a large herd of zebra. The men thought
that I had better get out and do the rest of the hunting on foot.
But this I gravely declined doing, saying they must carry me
alongside of the herd. The zebras had not been accustomed to
be stalked in such a .daring manner, and gazed upon us with
astonishment, allowing my hammock to be carried to within fifty
yards of them. I then quietly got out, took my gun, sat down on
a little anthill, and shot the biggest and fattest of the troop.
Whilst some of the men skinned and cut it up, the others carried
me safely back to my sleeping quarters.
The heat was excessive, and in returning we were compelled to
travel by night, as the men could not endure the sun. At the
Lufira I could not go out of doors during mid-day hours. On my
delightful little hill, however, there is always a breeze, and the
shade is always cool. " Oh, for rain ! " is the cry in every one's
mouth. All the trees that but a short time ago looked green and
fresh are beginning to wither and droop.
I was much struck during my recent trip to the Lufira, while
traversing the "Mukurru," by the number of villages, especially in
the eastern part. In the course of two hours I counted forty-three,
within sight from the road, all of fair size, and all the land between
was under cultivation. A CHANGE IN DICK.
Since recovering from my last fever Dick has shown signs of
true conversion. One evening when we were talking together he

1886.] Stay in Garenganze. 189
seemed to receive a peculiar measure of joy. Our theme was
the cross ; and though naturally he has a dull, heavy countenance,
his face lightened up marvellously, and both mouth and heart
were filled with the spirit of praise.
That night I learned that my dictatorial ways had been that
which had previously hindered my boy, and had produced only a
lifeless confession.
If we would drive sinners to Christ our failure will be complete,
and our folly very evident. If we would lead them we must surely
go before them ; and the sinner's Christ is only to be found at the
cross, where all flesh is humbled to the depth of death. How
wise Paul was to win souls when, in announcing himself to be the
"chief of sinners," he declared the mercy of God to all. In
how small a measure this precious wisdom hath place in me, truly
the Lord knoweth. That very night the thought occurred to me
that my boy would despise me, and serve me with less respect,
seeing I had humbled myself with him. But very much the
contrary has been the case, for never has he served me more
joyfully and thoroughly than since then. I am reminded of the
words of Michal, Saul's daughter, to David, and of David's
reply, " I will yet be more vile than this, and will be base in my
own eyes ; and of the maid-servants which thou hast spoken of,
of them shall I be had in honour."
After this Dick became very anxious to learn to read and
write, a study for which he was mentally unfitted. I did my best
to instruct him, but he was so anxious about it that sometimes
when he came before me to read he would so tremble with
excitement that I had to send him away to some outside work.
Latterly he began to complain very much of headaches ; fever
symptoms set in, then great wandering of the mind, which
increased so that for ten days he was quite insane, though active
and vigorous. I had to do all but bind him, watching him night
and day, and was the only one who had any power whatever
with him. On the 2nd November he had so far recovered
as to be able to sleep quietly at night, but during the day
he went about in a stupid way, not a smile crossing his
face; yet occasionally I could see a tear stealing down his
cheek. There was nothing for it but to give him plenty of hard
out-door work.

1 90 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
Dick comes from the Zambesi, and has been with me for
three years. As you will well understand, many fresh cares
and anxieties rise in my mind for him, which I only can cast
upon the Lord, who alone is "able" to make any to stand
(Romans xiv. 4), to restore (Psalm xxiii. 3), and to uphold
those who fall. (Psalm cxlv. 14.)
susi.
Another lad, who is with me, somewhat older than Dick, who
helps about the house and garden, and who is imbued with a
remarkable faculty of being quick to learn and remember, has
lately joined with Dick in confessing the name of Jesus, and has
thrown off some of his old follies, more, I fear, to please me than
the Lord. I would not yet say that he is converted, a child of
God, but God knoweth. Nevertheless, his confessing the name of
Jesus is sweet, at least, to the ears of those who love Him. That
word, "He who is not against us is on our part," gives comfort in
such a case, while we continue to cast the matter upon the Lord,
that He may make manifest. As we are looking for a time of
blessing and gathering out from among the tribes in these parts,
it seems to me to be not contrary to, but in accordance with the
Lord's ways, that blessing should first begin at home and among
those of my own household. I might speak of three outsiders at
least, of whom I have hopes, but I will forbear. At Dick's own
request his baptism has been delayed until the return of one of
those who has been sent on an errand, that he may be present
at it.
Last night I had a happy time with my two lads. After their
supper they both came marching into my hut and squatted down,
and we had a long talk — till near ten. Indeed, I am having quite
a little revival in my family — not excluding myself. The younger
ones understand little of what is read, partly because of different
languages, but I seem to have won their hearts more; they approach
me with less awe. Dick has also managed to interest a young
man belonging to the place, and I hope that he will be brought
in. I am looking forward with joyful hopes to this summer's
work. Oh that my tongue were more free to speak these lang
uages ! But " my work is with the Lord, and my judgment
with my God." Here is our victory.

1 886.] Stay in Garenganze. 191
THE GOD OF JACOB.
In what a hopeless condition Jacob was, expecting his brother
Esau with his four hundred men — doubtless bent on wreaking
vengeance, and himself with only a few women and children, his
cattle, and their herdsmen. A weaker travelling party could not
be imagined. His very weakness compelled him to lay hold
upon God, who weakened him still more, so that his clinging was
intensified, and he said, " I will not let thee go." " Thou hast
power with God and with men," was God's gracious answer.
Jacob was now no longer in Esau's power as a lamb before a
wolf, but Esau was in his, so that his heart was turned as the
rivers of water. Jacob's life is a favourite study of mine. There
is so much in faltering, feeble Jacob (I don't speak of Israel) so
like me; so much in God's treatment of me so like God. Oh,
the magnitude of God's grace and mercy ! Who can know it ?
It would be far from the truth to suppose that the Lord still
suffers aught at the hand of God for sin, for He "hath once
suffered." Still, our present sins, and the grievous state of
Christ's Church, can be no joy or comfort to Him; but very
much the opposite. Was there not somewhat of pain in that
look that He gave fallen Peter, and an intenseness of desire in
the thrice-spoken question, "Lovest thou Me?" "I will not
drink of the fruit of the vine until the kingdom of God shall
come," is full of meaning, and speaks of the day in which His
Church shall be presented to Him without spot or wrinkle.
There is an unfathomable depth of earnestness in the intercessory
prayer of John xvii. that makes one say, Who can know the
costliness of that grace, and mercy, and love, showered upon us
— daily, hourly ? When I remember how my sin afflicted Him,
and brought on Him the pressure of the garden, and the agony
and curse of the cross, how unutterably sweet His — and not
, another's — forgiveness is. The thought of His continual interces-
¦ sion is the sweetest joy on earth.
THE BLESSINGS OF RAIN.
November 6th. — We have had heavy rains lately, to the joy of
everyone. It is in such a place, and at such a time, that one
realizes the blessings of rain. Six months of drought under

192 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Nov.
a tropical sun had blackened and scorched the very stones;
the earth, cracked and gaping all over, was at any hour of the
day at a higher temperature than my bare foot could endure,
and during the heat of the day I could not even hop on it
without running the risk of raising blisters on my feet like half-
crowns. Now all is cool, green, and refreshing; my hill is
covered with a magnificent show of flowers, and the grass is
already from two to three inches high. How such baked earth
could ever again yield grass, and that at the first sprinkling of
rain, is marvellous !
MY PATIENTS AND MY OWN HEALTH.
The rains have, however, put a check on my daily routine;
my patients have to be visited now during whatever part of the
day is likely to be dry, instead of in the afternoon. Because
of rheumatism I am quite nervous about being caught in the
rain. To-day I was caught in a shower when out dressing
the foot of a wounded man, page to one of Msidi's head-wives ;
I had to go back to my house, so the queen offered me her
blanket to put round me. I gladly accepted it, and marched
home in my glory, robed in her coloured blanket. I have sent
my tipoia (hammock), however, to bring the suffering man to me;
his friends come with him to-morrow to build a hut near me, and
two will remain with him here. His foot is in a fearful condition,
and will need much attention. This will be my first " hospital
hut." The Lord works His own plans in His own way, and this
seems to be the sort of auxiliary work that He is leading me into.
I have had remarkable success with all sorts of diseases since
coming here, fully nine-tenths having been cured within a very
short period. I have done little as yet in the way of school-work.
Kagoma, at the Lukuruwe river, sent word a few days ago
that he intended sending men to carry me in my hammock to
pay him another visit, so you see I am busy, and, I can add,
happy ; indeed, most happy.
Since the hot weather has set in, my health has improved
wonderfully. My appetite knows no bounds, and is satisfied
with the coarsest of foods. One could not imagine a more
repulsive dish — :t is so to many, and was so to me until lately —
than Kaffir corn porridge mixed with red palm oil — of which soap

'886.] Stay in Garenganze. 193
is made — yet I can enjoy it right heartily. My eyes give me
little trouble now.
November i$th. — I had just begun to find joy in Dick's com
panionship, when it seems — for the time, at least — to be snatched
from me by his renewed illness and suffering in mind ; yet I can
say from my heart, that God's perfect way, though hard to the
flesh, is not hard to love; for with Him alone is companionship,
.and all else is desolation and darkness. Those words, "Who
calleth you" (1 Thess. ii. 12, R.V.), have been ringing sweetly in
my ears these last few days ; the present, " calleth ; " not the past,
"called." Knowing this, we approach Him with confidence. Then
follows "unto His own kingdom and glory." Surely blessed is
the people whose God is Jehovah ; a calling God, a coming Christ,
now at this moment ours.
The chief sent for me early this morning, asking me to visit
his brother, some distance off, who is ill, and whose wife had gone
out of her mind. I trudged off with the kalama (king's page)
sent to conduct me, returning late in the afternoon, throbbing all
over with the excessive heat of the sun. This heat, however, I
must confess, suits me; I have grown stronger during these last
six weeks.
In going about from place to place, I better understand the
size of this Mukurru, or inhabited plain. It takes a good day's
journey to traverse it, being between eight to ten miles in width.
The ground is chiefly covered with fields, in the midst of which
the river Unkeya (or Ongeya) runs, but the clusters of huts are
many, and scattered all over. Here and there are centres, in
which the king has his own houses, where, to the extent of half a
mile or so each way, the houses of the people are built together.
msidi's rule.
In the midst of all these people the amount of quietness
and peace that reigns is remarkable. The fear of Msidi is great.
He is sharp and severe in his government, though I see or hear
of nothing in the way of torture or cruelty inflicted by his
orders as a means of punishment ; yet executions are common,
but death is inflicted at once, and in the most expeditious manner.
All the cases of which I have heard particulars have been those
of actual crime, and not of witchcraft or any other mere super-
o

194 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
stition. The king has a long iron chain, which he uses for
punishing minor offenders. To this they are bound by the neck,
perhaps ten or twelve at a time, and are sent out to his fields to
work — a very sensible arrangement, I think, and much better than
the cruel flogging so common in Africa.
October is the hoeing time, and it is a pleasure to see everyone
turning out to the fields. The men indeed, so far as I can judge,
do a large share of the work ; and the husbands tell me that after.
all their hard day's work, it is dangerous to return home in the
evening without a heavy log of wood to keep up the night fire.
WASTE OF CORN BY BREWING.
One would suppose that there is an abundance of food all the
year round, but it is not so. The prodigal waste of corn in
the dry season in brewing beer passes description. They make
beer of the strongest kind, filling large bark vessels, holding
as much as twenty or thirty gallons. It is free to all comers, and
drinking is kept up night and day in the yard until the vessels
are emptied ; and thus in two or three days the fruit of weeks of
toil in hoeing, and months of weeding and watching, has vanished
like smoke.
A dull, sleepy state, rather than levity and quarrelling, seems
to be the effect of over-drinking this heavy beer. I have only
seen one man who had any appearance of being a sotted
drunkard, in spite of the amount of drink consumed. I suppose
this is because "it is always taken fresh.
polygamy.
The cruel raiding on other tribes which is kept up, in which
many of the men are killed and the women captured, has brought
into the Garenganze an immense number of women, so that the
proportion of women to men is very unequal; consequently
polygamy is carried on to a shameful extent.
Marriages are made, not by purchase exactly, as in Zululand ;
neither do the wife and her children continue to be the property
of her brothers, as among the Ovimbundu tribes, but a present is
made to the father of the bride, who forthwith disposes of his
daughter ; she, however, may leave her husband at any time, if
she cares to do so. The case may then be brought to the chief,

1887.] Stay in Garenganze. 195
and if the wife be at fault the present must be returned; if
the husband has ill-treated his wife, then he has driven her from
him, so there is no one to blame but himself. In disputes among
themselves, the people undoubtedly receive fair justice at the
hands of Msidi, and he is ready to listen to all who come.
NEW YEAR'S REFLECTIONS.
January, 1887. — A New Year has come round again; the past
one has been a blank to me, so far as home and the outer
world are concerned, the last letters I have received being dated
November, 1885.
What all the four seasons brought round with them to all
at home I cannot possibly surmise, but doubtless all is well.
" He led them by a right way."
While at the Lukuruwe I was a good deal occupied in
studying the life of David, and his early wanderings. On New
Year's-day these words of Amasai came very forcibly to me, and
my prayer is that they may indeed be my motto for this year.
"Thine are we, David, and on thy side, thou son of Jesse."
(1 Chron. xii. 18.) Thine — to be with Thee; thine — to be where
Thou, Lord, dost lead me ; in hold or in war.
How sincerely David prepared his heart always to wait the
Lord's time ! This was most honouring to God, most convincing
to his friends of his divine appointment to the throne of Israel,
and most disastrous to his enemies. What a contrast to Saul,
who " forced himself" to sacrifice at Gilgal, and who enquired of
a familiar spirit, because Samuel and God seemed to him in those
two cases to be behindhand !
In regard to humility also the contrast is beautiful. Saul was
willing to confess that he had sinned, and to humble himself
before the Lord and Samuel, but he said at the same time,
" Honour me now, I pray thee, before the elders of my people,
and before Israel." But David in his sorrow and humility " lay
all night upon the earth," and on another occasion could stay the
hands of his followers by saying that the Lord had said to
Shimei, "Curse David." Surely this must ever be the test of
the reality of our confession and humility before God, even
our willingness to acknowledge our sin and humble ourselves
before men. So also love to our brethren is the touchstone of
o 2

196

Seven Years in Central Africa.

[Jan.

1887.] Stay in Garenganze. 197
our love to God. For divine love and humility are not mere
sentiments, but rather possessions, so that the world does not
judge wrongly of one who loves his enemy, or willingly humbles
himself. David's life had clouds, but his eyes saw onward to the coming
day, the clear morning, the morning without a cloud.
NEED OF CHANGE OF DIET.
On the whole, the country is rocky and arid, though along
the rivers the ground is very fertile and productive. Maize-
corn is ripe the third month after sowing, and during the rains
the grass or other rank vegetation grows so rapidly that footpaths
are obliterated, and a guide is needed,, where at another time
there is a broad, well-beaten track.
January 2nd. — Last month, after finishing the planting of my
garden, I found myself in rather a bad way for food, especially
meat. Porridge, without milk or sugar, night and morning, day
after day, is apt to pall on one's stomach, in spite of every brave
resolution. So I started with my gun and a few men for the
Lukuruwe river, and by the way I shot a wild boar, with tusks a
foot long; the meat of this animal I sent back to keep the
"family " going. At the Lukuruwe I managed to kill, after a good
deal of hunting, eight antelopes, three zebras, and two immense
hippopotami. I found on my return that my grass hut had been broken into
in my absence, probably by some hungry Bihe" porter, and that I
had been robbed of a large double blanket, sack of corn, towel,
shirt, pillow, etc. The blanket is my chief loss, as I now have
left to me only a threadbare, worn-out affair, which has done
service from the east side of the continent.
DELIVERANCES.
While at the Lukuruwe I had a narrow escape. I had been
resting during the heat of the day, my bed being on the ground.
When about to get up I reached out for my hat, intending to go
outside, when whiz came a spear into my hut, cutting through the
rim of my hat, which was in my hand, and sticking into the
ground not three inches from my side.

198 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
At another time a man and I were out alone in the woods, when
the call of a honey-bird attracted us. On going but a short way
it halted on a tall tree. We were looking into the tree trying to
find the honey, when, from the grass which lay between us, out
sprang a leopard and bounded off. The wicked bird had led us
to his lair. THE SOMBWE CAVES.
The people I met were nearly all of the Basanga tribe, the
original occupants of the country, of whom there are now but
few. I scarce understand a word of their language as yet.
Going north-west, nearly to the Kalasa mountains, I had a
good view of the famous cavern mountain, which is inhabited.
The great cave has two entrances, a distance of five miles qr
more apart, and within is a running stream. There are also many
smaller caves and dens in this mountainous country in which
the natives hide themselves.* In going amongst their villages I
seldom could get more than two or three together at one time.
When, however, I succeeded in killing the two hippopotami in
the river close by my camp, and had sent round an invitation, I
had no less than 100 of these poor people, who gathered together
and were willing to remain with me as long as the feast lasted.
It was really a big Christmas dinner that we had in the heart of
Africa, the two hippopotami forming the centre dish, with zebra
and antelope as side dishes.
HYENAS TAKE POSSESSION OF CAMP.
Before so many of the people gathered to my camp we had a
rather stirring adventure. Two of our men, while out hunting,
were benighted on the other side of the river. Night set in very
dark indeed, and after waiting a long time for the absent ones the
men in camp crossed, and made signals to guide them to our
whereabouts ; and above the rushing noise of the river we heard
their voices replying to us on the other side. I ran down to the
river bank in order to guide them, but finding that my voice was
* The entrances to these caves look like rabbit-holes. They form such
perfect retreats that Msidi could extort no tribute from these people. Near
the mouths of the caves they have millet gardens. They greatly feared my
inspecting the caves, and I had to promise that I would not do so, or none
would have come near me.

'887.] Stay in Garenganze. 199
not loud enough to make them hear me, I called to my men in
camp to come down that we might all shout together, and so
cause them to hear us. All accordingly left the camp and joined
me. We had only shouted once or twice when to my horror I
heard a great noise in the direction of the camp, which seemed
to be alive with howling demons. The truth was that the
wild animals of the forest had taken advantage of our absence,
rushed in, and were devouring the meat they found there. Some
parts of a zebra were lying in the middle of the enclosure, and a
family of hyenas, 'accompanied by two dog-leopards, were fighting
and quarrelling over it. We had to act instantly ; and having no
fire or guns in our hands, it was impossible to remain out of our
shelters. So taking the lead, and calling to my men to come on,
I rushed at full speed 'back to the camp. Taking care to avoid the
doorway, we sprang over the little brush barricade, so alarming the
animals with our shouts and yells that they left the meat and fled.
Msidi took the opportunity of showing his friendship for me by
sending some of his young men to compel the people to give corn
to "his white man," and of course these young scamps robbed
these people — as they always do under such circumstances — right
and left. I showed my appreciation of such attention by bundling
up and starting off home the next day. Among the dozen men
with me I had a profitable time, as all were free at night to listen
to all that was said, and they readily joined in conversation. The
Seyek language, I find, will not be of much use beyond the
capital. I see much work yet before me in acquiring languages ;
on almost all hands different dialects are spoken.
MSIDI'S RECEPTION-DAY.
February $th. — A company of Arab traders arrived here a few
days ago. Yesterday being the reception-day for them, the king
sent for me to come and sit by him ; and many of his people
came together. Each of the three Arab master-traders brought
a handsome shawl with him, with which to deck Msidi. A
military review was then held, after which speeches were made
by the Arabs and by the king and his chiefs.
Msidi then gave me an opportunity of speaking, which I would
most gladly have taken had I been at all equal to it. I was glad,
however, to find I was able to understand nearly all that was

200 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
spoken in Seyek; but I fear my address would be no more
popular here than at Liwanika's court among the Barotse.
The sum and substance of their speeches on such an occasion
is flattery ; past events are rehearsed and discoursed upon, and all
things greatly exaggerated and contorted to suit the occasion.
DANGER FROM WILD BEASTS.
Yesterday morning a woman was caught here by a leopard
while in her field. She was a "small wife" of the king's, and
through her cries assistance came, and the leopard was chased
away, but the woman died shortly after. Msidi at once sent to
me for some poison to kill the leopard should it return, and I gave
him some strychnine. Instead, however, of killing a goat or dog
to be used as bait they preferred the dead woman'^ body. " She
is now dead," said the chief. "What can we do? Let her
redeem her fellows ! " i.e., from the leopard's paw. A great deal
of man-eating by wild animals goes on. The number of people
massed together — more given to cultivating than to hunting — and
the- custom of throwing out the bodies of dead slaves has given
these animals a taste for human flesh.
In my small compound, yet unfenced, it is not safe for any one
to be out of doors after dusk. Little Johnny was very nearly
caught by a hyena one evening.
A little boy, left here sick by one of my Bihe carriers, was in
the habit of coming over and eating with my boys of an evening,
and sometimes sleeping with them. I missed him for a few days,
and on enquiring, found that he had started for my house one
evening and had not returned. He doubtless was carried off by
one of these "beasts of prey.
Old lions, which no longer have teeth strong enough to pull down
large game, come round and prey upon the people, and they are
very audacious. A woman close by us left her child sitting in
front of her hut for a few minutes. On returning she found that
the child had been carried off by one of these retired monarchs
— his footprints, of course, told the tale. .
Out in the bush, where game is abundant, it is quite different,
and people sleep freely out in the open country. There they have
simple mat doors to their huts ; here they require doors of reed
strongly barred.

l8870 Stay in Garenganze. 201
I got a pleasant message from Kalolo, the village which I visited
last year, and where many were so afraid of me as to sleep in the
fields all night. They wanted to know when I would return.
The description they gave was, " Ah ! that was the good white
man that visited us, that gave us feastings of meat." It is a rough,
hilly county that lies between, but I must be off to them again,
" if by any means I may win some."
From Kagoma's, on the Lukuruwe, I get constant messages,
and occasionally presents of food. His invitations have been very
urgent. When the dry season sets in I may shut up house and go
there for a month or so. These village people are warmer, more
"get-at-able," less given to politics, arid less disturbed by the
many diversions that take up the attention of the people of this
African city — such as cases in court, executions, the daily arrival
of visitors and bringers of tribute, etc.
BAPTISM OF DICK.
February 13th, Lord's-day. — This morning Dick was baptized.
Only two others besides myself were present, though Dick had
asked others to come. Before going down to the water we had a
solemn time in my house with Dick, Susi (the Bihe' lad who is
with me), and another man who is deeply interested, though I
cannot as yet say under any especial conviction. Susi sticks to
the confession of Christ that he made some time ago, and will not
be moved from it. May the Lord, with whom alone is the
" Urim and Thummim " (Neh. vii. 64, 65), make known to
us of a truth whether Susi is His child or not, is my heart's
prayer. Dick is confident that Susi's confession is real.
Well, we had a solemn time by the pool out on the flat to
which we went. To get down to the water we had to break our
way through long rank grass, and close by I noticed the fresh
footprints of a leopard that had drunk water there in the morning.
After a short prayer in Umbundu, Dick was baptized in the name
of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Ghost. It was a
solemnly glad time, and all seemed to feel it We then returned
to my house and spent a long time in earnest conversation.
When parting, six years ago, with dear Mr. Dyer, he remarked,
in his usual solemn way, that "it would be a day never to be
forgotten by me when the first one was baptized under the dark

202 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
Zambesi waters." To-day a dark Zambesi sinner has been
baptized in the Garenganze waters, and it is but the beginning of
God's kindness to us and to these people ; there are more to follow.
Surely our God's mercy is not as a stream that comes and goes
in volume, but as an ocean immeasurable, unfathomable. The
joy and astonishment that fill us at every realization of His good
ness must ever exceed that which accompanied our faith and
expectation, because He always exceeds our asking or thinking.
His love is ever richer than our knowledge. When all possible
knowledge or expectation is exceeded, surely only astonishment
remains !
Until very recently the chief thought that presented itself to
me in connection with baptism was that of death and burial ; but
now it seems to me that the thought of resurrection and new life
is by no means to be omitted, but rather to take the leading place.
In i Peter iii. 21 it is directly connected with the resurrection of
Jesus Christ, and baptism, being called the " interrogation " (or
inquiry) "of a good conscience towards God" (R.V.), implies
life. As the new-born babe cries, so new-born souls call upon
Him who is the source of their life.
FLATTERY.
My relationship with the people, though very good from the
first, is if anything improving. I find that both the king and his
people make every effort to please me, and seem desirous to
give me every encouragement to remain among them, giving
their consent to everything I suggest, and shutting me up with
flattery. Augustine, referring to Proverbs xviii. 21, remarked
that "our daily furnace was the tongue of men." Paul and
Barnabas found grace to resist the flattery of those who cried
out that the gbds had come down among them ; and afterwards
grace to resist their slanders and stones was not withheld from
them. Still we have much reason to rejoice and give thanks for
a quiet and peaceable life in what is generally considered to be
the heart of savagedom, and the haunt of every cruelty.
HOW FAR OUGHT WE TO PLEASE MEN?
It is often difficult to know how far one ought to go towards
pleasing men, especially where ignorance to a certain extent is not

1887.] Stay in Garenganze. 203
wilful. Paul declares his willingness to become all things to all
men that he might win some, and these words of his are con
stantly with me. When the "people pay me a visit, I seek to
entertain them with as much frankness and patience as possible ;
also in my traffickings with them, preferring rather to be robbed
than to appear to be taking advantage of them. The propriety
of this I clearly see, also the folly of arguing with them about
the varieties of their manifold superstitions, and the wisdom of
so weaving one's life as to catch them, enclosing them by
deeds and words, so that escape may not be possible by ordinary
excuse, but only by doing despite to the Spirit of grace.
Paul, however, again remarks, " If I were still pleasing men I
should not be a bond-servant of Christ." (Gal. i. 10.) Could one
say that upon the principle contained in 1 Cor. ix. 22, Paul
circumcised Timothy? and on that contained in Gal. i. 10, he
refused to circumcise Titus? In the first case, he did so to
please those who were wholly Jews ; in the second, to resist
those he calls "false brethren." We may stir up much oppo
sition with the drawn sword of a fleshly zeal. Cutting off ears
only injures the cause of Christ, as He showed Peter by heal
ing the wounded ear ; for it is of the first importance that men
hear. Though outwardly things are thus quiet and agreeable, yet
there lacks not opposition from certain quarters. The Arab
traders who come here have done what they could in spreading
evil reports and lying stories about the " designing English," etc.
The rains were exceedingly late this year, and when a regular
drought was threatening, some of the "doctors" of the land
would fain have laid the blame at my door (this I heard only
lately) ; but the story did not take. The spear, also, that was
thrown at me in the bush close by the Lukuruwe river shows
that the enemy, though he lurks snake-like in the grass, is
present, and will doubtless watch his opportunity for raising more
opposition. Difficulties have arisen because I have not followed the custom
of giving presents to bands of drummers in camp. I have
refused to do so, and have often had trouble in clearing my
camp of these boisterous musicians.
In the first place, I cannot give lawfully the Lord's money to

204 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb.
the support of such folly, and to do so might lead to the annoy
ance of all servants of the Lord who come after me, by encourag
ing and perpetuating the practice.
The custom also of giving presents to head-men, minor chiefs,
etc., who have no lawful claim to receive tribute, I have opposed,
thus raising no little amount of dissatisfaction.
At the Barotse I gave, with little discrimination, all I had;
my chief thought was to be acceptable to them, and to be liked.
I succeeded in this. I fear, however, that it was not a godly
success, or one to God's glory. I have but little with me, and
with that little I am bound to see to the needs of the men who
have patiently come this long way with me, and to speed them
well on their return to their homes.
A question often arises in my mind as to how far we ought to
go in such a country as this in pushing school-work ; i.e., teaching
to read and write, etc. It seems to be a sure way of securing,
in the future, an increase of "church membership," but of the
sort that are brought up to it by the cold process of education,
whose spiritual condition is generally very questionable. In
other countries, where education is more general and valued by
the people from a purely secular point of view, reasons doubtless
present themselves to missionaries why they should lay themselves
out especially for that work; chiefly, I should think, because of
the daily opportunity given of presenting Christ to the scholars.
As to the wisdom of urging the knowledge of reading upon those
who have professed Christ's name, or who are evidently inquiring
after Him, I have no doubt; else how could they take heed
to the injunction, " Give attendance to reading ? "
COTTAGE IN USE.
I am in my house at last. Plastering the walls has been
a slow and tedious process. Indeed, the house stood so long
with its heavy thatch covering, and with walls of poles, through
which the wind could play at its pleasure, that the roof got
somewhat twisted, and the thatch dishevelled. I have' tried
to make the mud-plaster as perfect as possible, and with a good
plank door I shall hope to be' able to regulate the atmosphere
inside, which I think will help greatly towards a more even
condition of health.

1887. 1

Stay in Garenganze.

205

ARABS CAMP.
February 20th. — Paid a visit to a camp of Arab traders, and
was quite astonished at the number of slaves they have already
bought, chiefly full-grown men and women, all secured by their
necks with heavy forked sticks. While there I saw the Arabs
buy a man for ten yards of calico. They give, they told me,
twelve to sixteen yards for women and young lads. Full-grown
men were not so valuable, as they are untameable, and liable
to make their escape. After the bargain had been completed
three stout Zanzibaris came forward, seized the man they had
bought, threw him on his face on the ground, drew his hands
behind his back in the most cruel way, and bound them tightly ;
then, with a blow on the side of the head, they ordered the poor
fellow, who never uttered a word all this time, to get up and
go before them. He would have to lie bound with this cord
until a taming-stick was manufactured to place on his neck.
The weight of these sticks is very great, but to my mind the
discomfort of their position during the day, when they are allowed
to sit up with the end of the stick resting on the ground in front
of them, is nothing compared to what they must suffer at night.
Then they are made to lie down, the stick being kept fixed, and
pinning their neck between its fork to the ground, its upper end
fastened to the roof of a hut, shed, or branch of a tree.

The Taming Stick.

206 Seven Years in Central Africa. [March,
March iith.—A. young, man, who lived about a gunshot from my
house, was carried off to-day by a lion while resting in the shade
behind his hut. HUNGRY VISITORS.
18th. — At six o'clock this evening, just in the twilight, a
leopard, which seems to have followed my boys, seized and
carried off my dog from the very centre of my yard.
2$th.- — On going outside last night, about eleven o'clock, I
encountered a large animal just in front of my door. He seemed
to be waiting his opportunity to pounce upon someone, but I
tumbled back indoors and disappointed him. A few nights
later, while sitting under the verandah of my house, I saw
another of these creatures coming straight for my cottage,
evidently attracted by the goats. Stepping indoors, and picking
up my gun, which stood loaded in a corner, I fired at him,
and the ball passed through his heart I found it was a full-
grown hyena, of the man-eating sort. My boys and the
neighbours had a dance round it the next day. At this time
of the year the grass is so long that these animals are em
boldened to go around the villages and prey upon the people.
DEATH OF JOHNNY.
March 26th. — Last night my boy Johnny died. He had been
ill for a long time with diarrhoea, brought on by eating green
maize-corn. After a short prayer and a few words with the
rest of the boys we buried him in the garden. Poor little lad,
he was of an exceedingly sweet and tender disposition. Among
the rest he was pre-eminently my boy. My first acquaintance
with him was in the Lunda country. Kasoma bought him
there, unknown to me. During the long, tiring march before
we reached the Lualaba river, this little lad completely broke
down; and as all the men were heavily burdened, only two
courses were open to us — either to leave him by the roadside, or
allow him to ride my ox. Accordingly he was carried on ox-back
for several days, until he recovered somewhat When Kasoma
left for Bihe' I was not willing to part with Johnny, so he left him
with me. Johnny was always an example to the other children,
and now all feel very much the death of their little playmate,
and I hope the event will be blessed to them.

l887-] Stay in Garenganze. 207
SEND OFF MORE LETTERS — MEDITATION.
To-day I had an opportunity of sending letters to the coast.
As can well be understood, it is easier to send letters from a place
like this than to receive them. All native traders go to the coast,
but few from the coast come here ; and those who do are often
uncertain as to their destination when leaving their homes. My
mind naturally follows Cinyama and the little party, and some
times I ponder the result of his journey with a measure of
anxiety. When I left Natal alone five years ago I never for a moment
dreamt that it would be for so long a time as this, yet in looking
back it does seem very short indeed; and considering the
wonderful goodness of the Lord to me, I have little reason to
doubt as to the future. If Cinyama returns alone it will be well.
If an English fellow-labourer should come with him I shall be
very thankful. Meanwhile the Lord wonderfully makes up to me
for all I lose in being without the immediate fellowship of brethren
in Christ My days are spent, I may say, in unbroken quietness
of mind and peace within. Although I have joy, yet I do not
say I am always rejoicing. There is much to depress me in such
a field as this. Heathendom in all its nakedness, cruelty, and
depravity is far from being exhilarating in its effect ; but yet,' in
comparison, the condition of these people is happy when placed
alongside the state of the unsaved in home lands. How dark and
hideous is the ignorance around one here ! but how guilty the
ignorance of British sinners who close and harden their hearts
against the light, and strengthen themselves with false hopes !
Here also they are never at rest, seeking after vain hopes and
refuges of lies. CHARMS FOR SAFE JOURNEY OF CARAVAN.
On behalf of a caravan about to start for Bihe, Msidi and his
fetish priests have been at work a whole month, preparing charms,
etc. The process in such a case is first to divine as to the
dangers that await them ; then to propitiate with the appointed
sacrifices to forefathers (in this case two goats were killed);
afterwards to prepare the charms necessary, either as antidotes
against evil or to secure good. The noma or fetish spear to be
carried in front of the caravan, with charms secured to it, was

208 Seven Years in Central Africa. [March,
thus prepared : The roots of a sweet herb were tied round the
blade ; then a few bent splinters of wood were tied on, like the
feathers of a shuttle-cock. In the cage thus formed were placed
a piece of human skin, little bits of the claws of a lion, leopard,
etc., with food, beer, and medical roots, thus securing, respectively,
power over their enemies, safety from the paws of fierce animals,
food and drink, and, finally, health. A cloth was sewn over all,
and finally the king spat on it and blessed it.
After all these performances they will set out with light hearts,
each man marked with sacred chalk. Such is the " fool " in all
lands; he finds a refuge in his own imaginations. And how
many there are of professing Christians among our own country
men who play the fool ! how many who vainly believe that they
are rich and increased with goods and have need of nothing !
Others vainly say, "Is not the Lord among us?" (Micah iii. n)
and claim His promises while they are living to self.
DOMESTIC MATTERS.
At present the languages are occupying most of my time. My
chief interruptions are caused by having to go off occasionally
to the bush to procure a supply of meat, which I dry and use,
not so much as food, but to flavour my maize or millet-corn
porridge, which is my staple article of food; but as this dried
meat does not keep very long, I have to exchange large quantities
of it with the natives for corn.
Formerly my shooting greatly distressed me, as I wounded
many animals without killing them. Now, however — I believe in
answer to prayer — I seldom fail to secure the animal I aim at ;
this searching for game takes up four or five days every three
months. I might ere this have taught Dick, my lad, to shoot,
and have given him this occupation, but I fear his being carried
away with the excitement of hunting, and becoming a regular
hunter, an occupation most unsettling and unprofitable.
The field of corn and beans which my boys have cultivated
has borne remarkably well, but I fear comparatively little of the
crop will be secured, thieves and wild pigs having the larger
share. There is no way of checking the thieves but by catching
and cruelly beating them. Of course, I will not hear of this being
done, but, on the contrary, I have been moved to give a meal of

l887-l Stay in Garenganze. 209
food at my house to the poor hungry creatures caught stealing.
So insensible, however, are they to mere rebuke, or even to kind
treatment, that they will go off quietly, and again begin filling
their baskets with half-ripe corn as soon as they think they are
not observed.
Those whose names "are written in the earth" ^Jer. xvii. 13)
may hope to subsist on the fruit of the earth ; but I fear those
who would live godly in such a country as this will have to look
higher, even to Him who will yet destroy the belly itself by an
everlasting fulness.
My house is a very great comfort to me. We have had a time
of very heavy and protracted rains, which have proved the site
I have chosen to be an excellent one in regard to drainage, the
ground sloping in three directions. A very porous subsoil of a
sort of half-formed sandstone in thin strata, and all standing on
edge, gives me a dry and comfortable house and yard after the
heaviest rains, when all the villages around are actually standing
in mud.
May 8th. — This is a delightful, calm Sunday evening. The
sun is shining full into my door and windows, making my mud-
plastered house look quite cheerful, but not a bit more so
than I happen to be at this moment. I have just turned from a
happy reading and study of 2 Peter i., and am enjoying the
refreshing glow of these holy passages.
Last week I returned from a three weeks' tour on foot, which I
enjoyed exceedingly, in spite of the long grass and marsh-wading.
The rainy season was just over, so I embraced the opportunity
of taking another round. Besides Dick and other lads who
accompanied me, I got a professional hunter to join the party,
so as to relieve me of the extra fatigue of hunting. The first
villages we reached were those of Mirambo, a little way beyond
Kagoma's, on the Lukuruwe river. We rested there one day,
and then went down the river, making for a company of Ba-na-
lunda villages. The long grass tired me out, so we went into
camp about mid-day, sending the hunter on.
ADVENTURE WITH A LION.
At this spot we had quite a remarkable adventure with a lion,
which but for. the protecting care of God would have ended more
p

210 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
seriously. All night we were kept awake more or less by three
lions serenading us, and the lads had enough to do to keep their
bivouac fires burning. I, however, got a good night's rest. Next
morning when passing through a clump of long reedy grass I
heard distinctly in front the low angry growl of a lion. The man
who was before me stopped, saying it was a buffalo, and asked
for my gun that he might shoot it. I urged him to push on,
and tried to prevent the three boys from stopping, but it was too
late to avoid the brute's charge. He made straight at the hind
most lad, who was carrying my mat and blanket. I ran back
and succeeded in intercepting him, so that in his spring he fell
short a few feet from his intended victim, and before my very
face — too near indeed to allow me time to use my rifle. The
man and the three lads dropped their loads, and were off like
deer, leaving me and my royal friend alone in the reed thicket
face to face.* For a moment it was a question what the next scene
would be. He was raging fiercely, and would fain have sprung
on me, but seemed to lack the nerve. Holding him hard with
my eyes, and slowly cocking my rifle, I lifted it to my shoulder
for a steady aim, when he suddenly gave in, his huge tail dropped,
and drawing his teeth under his lips he made off. I sprang after
him, hoping to get a shot at safer range, but the grass was so
dense that I could not sight him again ; so I started in search of
my companions. I overtook Dick several hundred yards on by
the river's brink, and then the others, but not one would return for
his load, so complete was their scare, although I assured them
that the lion had gone clean away. That, however, was no
assurance to them that his wife or some of his relatives might
not be hanging about the same lair. Shortly after we met some
men returning from their fishing grounds, who were willing for a
small consideration to return for the loads with my brave crew.
Daniel's God is still the same to us. What I had mentioned in
a previous letter recurred most forcibly — that all God has been to
His people in ages past, and all He has promised to be through
out eternity, He now is to us — "This God is our God."
The lad whose life I thus saved belongs to Bihe", and I over
heard a young Bihean say to his fellows, he would " go anywhere
* A friend has endeavoured to represent this incident. The tent-like
structure is one of the ant-hills, which are very large in Africa,

i887.]

Stay in Garenganze.

211

212 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
with such a white man, who would throw his own body between
a lion and a black lad of no account." The young man who said
this, is a nephew of the chief Kapoko, who told the carriers I had
engaged at his villages two years ago, " not to go with this white
man, as he was an Englishman, and would carry them all off to
the other side of the continent and enslave them," the result
of which advice was, that most of them left me.
THE BA-NA-LUNDA,
I spent over ten days among the Ba-na-lunda villages. Un
fortunately the people were all occupied with their crops, and
most were encamped in the fields, driving away the birds by day
from the ripe corn, and the game by night. I had a sort of
running conversational meeting in my hut and yard while there,
as all found time to pay me a visit, and I can converse a little
both in the Seyek and Luba languages. The hunter was out
all the time, but only shot one buffalo ; still, we had enough.
We returned by Kagoma's villages, where I rested a day. Last
year I was able to relieve him of a disease from which he
had long suffered, and on leaving this time he presented me with
a bin of rice, equal to two large sacks.
MSIDI'S KINDNESS.
Two weary days' tramp across the flat brought me again to my
comfortable house. On reaching the capital I met Msidi. He
received me very warmly, and seeing I was very tired sent one of
his wives to cook a dish of rice and honey for me. It was dark
ere I reached my house. I found that in my absence Susi's
father had died. Two months ago I brought him to my village,
as he was far from well, and had no one to look after him. He
recovered somewhat, but had a relapse, dying while I was away.
This is the second death at my place within a month. The other
was that of my pet boy Johnny. I felt it much, and do so still ;.
indeed, it was partly the cause of my going off for a few weeks.
Msidi paid me a visit shortly after my return, and was most
agreeable ; indeed, he is a thorough gentleman. The other day
he told one of his courtiers that he had one true friend, and that
was Monare, for in his heart he did not find one single suspicion
of me, and, strange to say, I feel very much the same towards

l887-J Stay hi Garenganze. 213
Msidi. I have no suspicion of his friendship ; he most carefully
avoids asking anything of me, and all his family do the same.
Matters have been settled between Bihe' and this country, and
the "road" is virtually. open again. Msidi's two sons have not
returned yet, but they were awaiting the arrival of goods from the
coast, and will come shortly. Two large caravans have arrived for
trade, bringing no letters, nor any news for me, except that the
American missionaries are re-established in Bihe". I suppose they
did not know of the departure of these two caravans. I am
expecting a large budget when it does come. My last home-letter
dates are all in 1885. THE FATE OF SLAVE CHILDREN.
Yesterday I had another child brought to me. The poor thing
belonged to a blacksmith here, who some time ago sold its
mother for corn to the king's executioner. The corn was not
enough to cover the price of the child, so he kept it out of the
bargain. The fact was, the "hangman" did not wish a slave
with a baby on her back, so would not buy the child, though an
extra basket 0/ com would have sufficed. The blacksmith, who
has no wife, found he could do nothing with this baby, and
instead of knocking it on the head, as the custom here is — for
who would buy so young a thing ? — he sent it to me, asking me
to give a goat for him. I could not help myself in the matter, so
sent a young goat in exchange. Poor little boy (we will call him
Willie), he had been deceived, for they said they were taking
him to his mother, and he cried long and bitterly, "N'iwala ko
mama" ("Take me to mother"). In Luba the word for mother
is exactly like our "mama," the a's being very broad and
emphatic. He is a plump, healthy little chap, with a fine-shaped
head, awfully afraid of me as yet. I shan't give him up to his
mother where she now is, but I will do so if I can redeem her.
The question of these children harasses me a good deal, and
often I don't know what to do. Were I to take all, I might have
a second "Miss Anstey's Home"* in a few months. Little
children here have really no market value, and a woman burdened
with a child is a less desirable article of purchase than one with
* An orphan home in Kolar, India, where Miss Anstey received hundreds
of orphans during the famine of 1877, before any Government provision was
made for them.

214 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
hands and shoulders free. The raiding parties kill off all small
children found among their captives. The body of a fine little
boy was picked up only a few days ago beside the Arab camp.
The owner had doubtless taken him the round of all likely
purchasers, probably including me among the number, and then
thrust a spear through him as a useless burden on his hands.
Another little boy, whom I refused to take last year, was de
liberately starved and thrown out to the wolves.
A young man named Cilombo had charge of a field close by
my cottage. Being interested in meetings held at my place, he
moved his hut from the far to the near side of the field. His wife
was a slave woman, and had a little child to whom I had taken
quite a fancy ; and in passing their hut on my way to the villages
I used often to take the child in my arms and spend a few
minutes in playing with it. During my absence on one occasion
the mistress of Cilombo's wife carried out a threat she had made
long before, and sold her with her child. The husband was
powerless to interfere on behalf of either. One of a company of
traders bought the woman, and started at once for Bihe. Another
man, however, hearing that this woman had been sold, wished to
exchange for her a younger slave, who was perhaps of more value
though less muscular, as he wanted an able-bodied woman to
cultivate his fields. The Bihe trader was willing to make the
exchange, but reminded the man that he had brought nothing for
the child. The latter at once said he did not want the child ; but
as it was so young, he thought it ought to be included with the
mother in his bargain.- The men were unable to come to terms ;
so, to prevent more ado, the child was taken from the mother's
arms, its head was dashed against a tree, and it was thrown into
the river. Thus the difficulty was got over, and the women were
exchanged ! The poor mother's grief at the loss of her child
may be imagined. Had I known the peril that this little one
was in I certainly should have secured it in some way or other.
But to know where and when I ought to draw the line baffles me.
I cannot allow myself to be involved in slave-buying ; that is clear.
What are the points of difference between buying and redeeming?
If it is lawful to buy, it must be equally lawful to sell. One can
redeem a grown-up person and let him go, but this cannot be
done with a child whose parents are enslaved ; the owner of the

l887-] Stay in Garenganze. 215
mother might take him at once and sell him again. Of course,
alone, I cannot look after more than a -very few, and that settles
the question so far. The little girl Chinze, whom I took last
year from a Bihean, when unable to travel because of boils on her
feet, is again covered with a loathsome disease peculiar to this
country, called monona, and has to be kept entirely separate.
Among the natives this disease generally runs from two to five
years. With a free use of sulphur internally and caustic
externally I hope to cure her soon.
So much for family matters and perplexities. Dick is in every
thing my good man " Friday." Susi, the other lad, is useful in
taking messages, medicines, etc., but is very handless and of
little use about the house. My other little one, Segunda, is
getting on well ; it took about six months to get him out of the
decline he had fallen into through neglect and bad food.
My own health keeps excellent; ever since moving into my
" house " I have not had a single day's illness of any kind, and
nearly a year has passed since I touched quinine or any other
home medicines, although J have occasionally used the herbs and
medicinal berries of this country. In fact I am quite a naturalized
African. The heat of the sun in no way affects my head as it
used to do. I prefer wearing a light grass hat, of native manufac
ture, to my heavy pith-helmet, which is shaken out of its dust
only on state occasions. My joints, however, have been stiffened
a good deal with rheumatism this season, which has been an
exceptionally wet one; not that my house is at all damp, but
after weeks of rain the very atmosphere becomes saturated.
SUNDAY EXCUSES.
Dick and Susi are great helps to me. They thoroughly enter
into sympathy with the work ; and though neither ventures to talk
much to others, they are not slow in going about and inviting the
people to come to my house on the Lord's-day morning. I speak
chiefly in Umbundu, consequently those who come are for the
most part natives of Bihe" ; many besides understand Umbundu,
but do not come so freely to my house. The variety of excuses
made, and obstacles that come in the way, are marvellous. If a
man is sick, it is sure to be on the Sunday ; if a slave runs off, it
is certain to be on a Saturday or Sunday ; and the most I have

216 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
gathered at one time is about a dozen men. To-day I went off
to a village where Umbundu is the chief language spoken, the
people being mixed. I planned to be there by mid-day, so as to
find them resting during the heat of the day, but I was dis
appointed; they had pressing business of their own on, so I
returned. You see I have need of patience here, and of grace
also, that " I be not weary, though in weariness oft."
I have been much cheered by a blacksmith who was at one
of my Sunday morning meetings, and who responded in a re
markable way to what was said. He declared before all the
rest that he had received new light that day. With an honest
expression, and in a sincere manner, he repeated afterwards, " Is
it so? Is it so? Is that what God is? Is that the nature of
God's love?" This was the Sunday before I left for the three
weeks' tour. On returning, my feet were so sore and blistered
that on nearing the capital I sent on for my hammock, hoping
someone about would volunteer to carry me. The blacksmith
heard of the opportunity, and did not lose it. He met me with
four other volunteers, and taking hold of the pole behind — the
heaviest end — he would let no one change with him, and
left, when my door was reached, with a hearty "Good-night."
It was for no present or pay that he thus gave his cheerful aid.
This act was like a fresh, cool breeze to one.
May 23rd. — Yesterday was Sunday, when we had a most
profitable day. I had quite a houseful of grown men at the
morning service, which was continued until mid-day. Our subject
was, "Repentance toward God, and faith toward our Lord Jesus
Christ." I don't think I ever had a meeting at which the people
showed less difficulty in understanding, and when in every way
I had more liberty in using the Umbundu language. In the
evening Susi, Dick, and I had our own meeting, spending the
time chiefly in prayer. Susi prayed most earnestly, and seemed
to be full of thanksgiving. 1 cannot now see how his baptism
and his being received at the Lord's table can be delayed,
for He has answered prayer in making His own work manifest
in him. A LESSON FOR DICK AND SUSI.
This morning Dick got an unmistakable rebuke. Yesterday
someone in the village happened to remark, that there was Uttle

,88M Stay in Garenganze. 217
chance of Cinyama being here next month; that he had just
come from Bihe", and knew how matters stood. Thoughtfully
considering our empty corn-bin, and that we had no more beads
or cloth to buy with, Dick" remarked, " If Cinyama does not come
next month we shall die of hunger." I checked him at once,
and reminded him that they had not a day's hunger during
all the months gone by, when many people of the country had
actually perished from starvation. (The past season was a very
hard one for the natives.) That day a drinking-cup had been
stolen from my boy when on the way to draw water, and the king
had sent to kill the thief. I ran down to prevent this, and
obtained Msidi's consent to his being put in chains for a few days
instead. When I entered the king's house and greeted him
he drew out from behind him a roll of eight yards of calico and
gave it to me, saying, that perhaps I was in need of it to buy
corn, as the crops were ripe. Where now were Dick's doubts ?
I believe that this calico was given especially for Dick and Susi's
sakes ; both mentioned the matter of food in prayer last night.
I had not mentioned it; indeed, it is seldom in my thodghts,
much less in my prayers. And here the answer comes the very
next day, at early morning — calico to buy corn ! Msidi had
never given me anything in that way before, except perhaps a
basket of corn or rice.
HOW A SADDLE AND BOOTS WERE PROVIDED.
Not only to the boys, but to myself, this time of waiting upon
God for our daily need has been greatly blessed; indeed, it
is only then that one can realise how truly this desert country
might, in the experience of faith, become as a well-watered
plain, and what seems only a way of discomfort and poverty
prove a path dropping with fatness. Even to the matter of an
ox-saddle and boots the Lord has been pleased to answer my
requests in prayer. When at Bihe- I had a good riding -ox
without a saddle. I never dreamed of there being a saddle
in the place, as there were no horses nearer than the coast, and
the art of riding was virtually unknown in the country ; so I laid
out my plans for making one. Finding, however, my time very
much occupied in looking after porters, etc., I saw there was
little prospect of having my saddle made by the day appointed

218 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
to start. I mentioned the matter in prayer to God — that if there
was a saddle in the country I might have it. Again I turned to
saddle-making, and had just cut up an old sack, with which
to make two pads for the back of the ox, finding it was out
of the question to think of anything more substantial, when a
little boy, about ten years of age, made his appearance at the
gateway of the village with a large saddle on his head. A
mulatto, who had just come from an expedition some 300 miles
to the south of Bihe", had purchased a. horse and saddle from
a Dutchman there. The horse, however, died, and he brought
home the saddle and sent it over to me that morning, wishing to
exchange it for a piece of calico cloth. I have no hesitation
in saying that I believe it was the only saddle in Bihe'.
Again, at the Garenganze I had sadly run out of boots. Indeed,
I had been compelled, in going down to the villages, to tie on
my feet thick pads, made out of old newspapers, so as to keep
them off the hot ground. Not that good leather cannot be
prepared by a simple process of tanning or smoking, but my
time had been so much occupied with the people, and attacks of
fever during my first year in the Garenganze had been |so
constant, that I had no leisure to give attention to boot-making.
Msidi, I thought, might possibly have some boots, and I went
down with the intention of asking him for a pair one morning,
but changed my mind on the way, and did not mention the
matter to anyone. Next morning, however, a young man came
along with a pair of boots to sell, the first time boots were ever
brought to me in this country. They were almost new, of fine
leather, and on trying them on they fitted me perfectly — the best-
fitting boots I have ever had. "How much for them?" "Four
yards." I had just four yards of cloth on hand, which came
in one of the loads from Kandundu. I could not have believed
five minutes before that such a pair of boots was in the interior,
for even at Benguella I could not get boots to fit me. It seems
that they were brought by a native trader, some time ago, to
Molenga, the chief whose village I passed on my way here. One
of Msidi's sons had gone to visit him, when Molenga gave him
the boots as a present. He wore them but a few days, and then
sent them for sale to me this morning. So I thank God for the
boots, and may He give me health to wear them.

,887-] Stay in Garenganze. 219
AN OPPORTUNITY LOST.
May 21th. — I have heard to-day of the death of Monkobe at
Kalolo. I visited his town last year, and was very well received.
About two months ago or more he sent a message to me, asking
me to repeat my visit. I had intended doing so very soon, and
now hear of his death. Alas' for the stiffness of my neck and my
unwilling feet ! It was the rain that prevented me, or I might
have gone when his message came. Surely I have not yet learned
to endure hardness for the gospel's sake. But there is scarcely a
place I have been to that messages have not followed to repeat
my visit. May the Lord Of the harvest send help here soon, is
my heart's prayer.
About this time six years ago I was preparing to make fare
well visits. It is not a long time, but it is long to be away from
all those whom the affections hold as near and -beloved in this
life. It is a long time to be a stranger on the earth, without a
companion ; yet, strange to say, it is only when I sit down and
think of it that I feel it at all ; as a rule the days go by without
a shadow of loneliness. The good Lord has wonderfully made
up to me for the lack of Christian fellowship by giving me Dick
and Susi, and the other three little black faces keep alive some
what the dear old home memories of nursery days and of love
for love.
Susi may not be very long with me now. I urge him to go.
His father left his mother and two young children in Bihe, so
now it falls to Susi to be their natural protector. He says that
he will stay here, however, for four or five months yet, so that he
may travel out with some relatives of his that are here.
SUSI BAPTIZEp.
May 28th. — Susi was baptised this morning. He had pro
fessed conversion sometime before, but it was not until after the
baptism of his companion Dick that any change was manifest in
him. Instead of telling me that he believed in Jesus, and that
Jesus was his Saviour, he reversed the order, and, as he quaintly
put it, he spoke down his throat to his own heart these things.
He has, ever since, I am thankful to say, been sincerely trying in
the midst of many difficulties and temptations to live a new life
in Christ Jesus.

220 Seven Years in Central Africa. [July,
executions.
July 14th. — To-day a son of the great Kasembe, of Lake
Moero, an old friend of Dr. Livingstone, was executed. This
man, a tall, handsome fellow, came to Msidi's town as a refugee
after the break-up of his father's power. Conspiracies against
him in his own country compelled him to seek a friend in his
father's old enemy. He, however, acted very unwisely when
staying with Msidi, who tested his fidelity by employing him
in subordinate positions. Young Kasembe would not submit
to such tests, seeing he himself was a king's son, and he preferred
to remain idle at the capital. It so happened that one of Msidi's
daughters cherished animosity against this man, because some
of her relatives by marriage had been murdered by him years
ago. She consequently did all in her power to bring him into
trouble, and at last he gave her an opportunity by speaking un
guardedly, in a drunken fit, in the presence of Msidi, and
implicating himself in the death of one of Msidi's favourite
generals. He was withal so defiant to Msidi, that the king saw
the wisdom of handing him over to his daughter, who had been
petitioning her father for his head for a long time. So the poor
fellow was bound and beheaded to-day, and his head was placed
on a pole above the door of this relentless princess.
August gth. — I had long been planning to revisit the town of
Kalolo, where the people were so afraid of me as to go off and
sleep in their fields all night. This time I carried nothing but
my gun and blanket, intending to give the people the benefit of
entertaining me to their hearts' content. I went a different road
to the one previously taken, and called at the town of Likoko, a
brother of Msidi. In doing so I had to pass the town of
Kapapa, Msidi's chief wife. In going along a little path leading
up to her town, I was astonished to see close by the gateway
what I at first thought was a young man buried in the ground up
to his neck — a mode of punishment common in these parts, as
prisons and handcuffs are unknown ; but to my horror I found it
to be the head of a young man freshly decapitated, placed thus
on the path as a warning to all evildoers. The headless trunk
was lying a few yards away, by the side of the road. At once I
suspected that Msidi was at Kapapa's town. I found that he
had arrived there very early in the morning, and had caught this

l887-] Stay in Garenganze. 221
young man skulking. It seems that Msidi had ordered him
some days before to join a war party that had already gone out,
and as it was his third or fourth offence Msidi ordered his
immediate execution. This shows the severity of Msidi's rule.
HOW HEARERS WERE OBTAINED.
After formally saluting the king I went on to Likoko's town, ¦
where I slept for the night, and we were entertained with their
best. We reached Kalolo in the afternoon of the next day.
The people there were very hearty indeed in their greeting, and,
instead of bringing me food uncooked as before, they all took to
cooking, so delighted were they to observe that, on my last visit,
I ate their native food, and had no supernatural ways of existing.
About five in the afternoon a woman came with a dish of thick
porridge, and small pot of ombelela, or relish, which is often made
of cooked beans or other things calculated to give the food a
taste. In a short time another came laden in the same way, and
then another, until for about half an hour there was a constant
stream of women bringing to my hut dishes of cooked food.
The whole village had brought me their own slippers, and all
were assembled in the yard outside, evidently intending to partake
of my feast. I at once fell into their little plan, called in my
own boys, and told them to carry the food out and lay it before the
people, so that I became their entertainer, and all were my guests
for the evening. Remaining with them the next day, I had a
pleasant and profitable time. There was a general holiday, and
about a dozen young men offered to accompany me for the rest
of the journey. Remembering the happy time I had at the
Lukuruwe with the crowd who gathered to my camp when I
killed the two hippopotami, I thought I would adopt the same
plan with these young men. We started into the bush, built a
camp in the neighbourhood of the Lufira river, where there was
plenty of game, and we spent six days together. Others joined
our company from the neighbouring villages. Sufficient food was
supplied to them, and the young men attended to their own
cooking, and everything that was needful. I embraced every
opportunity of explaining to them the truths of Scripture, and
all appeared intensely interested in our morning and evening
readings.

222 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept.
One learns at such times that there are compensations in lonely
service in Central Africa. The privilege of being enabled wholly to
engross oneself from morning to night in the business of reaching
the hearts of these people is very great indeed. In fact I often
feel that the present compensations quite outweigh any sacrifice
made. All that draws us nearer to God is rich and fertile in
reward; yea, it is good at times even to be cast down, for the Lord
comforteth them that are so. (2 Cor. vii. 6.)
RUMOUR ABOUT A FELLOW-LABOURER.
On returning to my house I found that a company of Bihe traders
had arrived. They reported the death of Chipongi, the chief of
that place, and also told me that there was a white man in Bihe',
known as " Monare's brother," who was planning to reach the
Garenganze. Their not having letters of any kind, however,
made me rather suspicious of their statements, and their ex
travagant accounts of the immense following that this white man
had, and the great amount of goods in his possession, and other
cock-and-bull stories with which they filled my ears, made me
still more doubt their truthfulness.
THREE ANTELOPES SHOT.
September 16th. — One of Msidi's hunters came to my house to
say that there was a troop of antelopes out in the plain to the
north of the capital, and urged me to go at once with him to the
spot. As myself and boys were in need of food of some sort I
started for the plain with this man as guide. We found, however,
that the herd had gone further away. Following on for some
time, we made up to them about ten miles from Msidi's town. I
succeeded iii stalking the herd, getting within 150 yards of them,
and from behind a small tree I opened fire. Although I had only
five cartridges in my belt three of these antelopes were brought
down. They were about the size of oxen, and are very good
eating indeed. Two of them lay together, and the third about
a hundred yards off.
A NIGHT ALONE WITH WILD BEASTS.
By this time the sun was just disappearing, and considering the
state of my larder at home, I could not think of leaving all this
meat in the plain. I therefore sent off my companion to the

l887-l Stay in Garenganze. 223
village for fire, and to bring more cartridges, and some men to
cut up and carry the meat back. I remained by the carcases,
armed only with a long hunting-knife, having no ammunition for
my rifle.
Night had scarcely set in when I heard in the distance the
whoop of a hyena, which was the signal for all night prowlers to
gather round; so I determined to march up and down, and if
possible hold my own against them. Unfortunately there was
no moon. It was a pitch-dark night, and I could only hear the
animals as they came walking round in the dry grass. Having no
fire with me, I was compelled to keep shouting at them, making
as much noise as possible, to keep them from the carcases of the
antelopes. They seemed to increase in number, and feeling
unable to defend all my spoil, I gave up one animal to my
hungry visitors, thinking that would satisfy them, and they would
leave me then in peaceful possession of the two.
Feeling the cold intensely, I took out my hunting-knife and
skinned one of the antelopes, rolled myself in the borrowed hide,
and lay down on the ground. But soon I heard the stealthy
tread of some animal coming towards me. Springing instantly to
my feet, I rushed to the place where I had left the one carcase,
and found that in the course of an hour these hungry brutes had
devoured it, and were now preparing to pounce upon either me or
the other two. By dint of rushing up and down, and shouting for
hours, I managed to keep them off. About three in the morning
some men came, bringing fire with them, and I got a little sleep.
The daylight revealed, by the footprints, that my companions had
been five large hyenas and three cheta or dog-leopards ; and not
only had they cleared off every atom of the flesh and bones of
their antelope, but they had licked the very ground clean of the
blood. We carried off the meat of the other two triumphantly
to Msidi's town, giving him a quarter of one ofthe animals as we
passed. He was quite astonished when he heard of the night's
adventure. Indeed, he professed to be very angry at what
appeared to him foolhardiness ; and when I explained that
necessity had compelled me, he wanted to know why I had not
applied to him for food. I told him that I certainly would not do
that; but he made me accept of a large bin of corn, which
contained more than a six months' supply for me and my boys.

224 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Oct.
A SURGICAL OPERATION.
October 10th. — Kasule, an old native trader from the Quando
district, who has been living here with Msidi for many years, fell
into a fire and burned his right hand. He did not come to me
to have it dressed at once, and mortification set in. When they
brought him to-day I found the hand in such a state that I was
compelled to amputate it. Taking him out to the bush close by,
I set him down on the ground, and, with the assistance of my
boy Dick, held his arm across a huge stone, and with a razor and
a little penknife I managed to sever the hand at the wrist-joint
The poor old man stood the operation wonderfully well, and
seemed very grateful for my help ; but he was quite overcome
when Dick dug a hole in the ground and buried the hand. I
kept the old man under my care for some days, and the wound
healed completely. He seemed very unwilling to leave my village
again, so I told him he had better bring his wife, build his hut
close by, and I would take charge of his little boy and bring
him up. I thought he might look after the village in my absence,
and would be useful for going messages and other light work.
TWO YEARS' LETTERS — BRETHREN CLOSE AT HAND.
December 14th. — Dick had just prepared my usual afternoon
meal of corn porridge, and one roasted pigeon to flavour it,
when two men came hastily up in front of my house, and without
waiting to knock pushed their way in. Before I had time to
remonstrate with them for their seeming rudeness, the foremost
one thrust into my hand a packet of letters. I handed to him
and his companion my porridge and pigeon, and opening the
packet I found that during these two long years of silence as
to the movements of the outer world I had not only been
remembered by many friends at home, but that two brethren were
actually close to me in the heart of Africa. Messrs. Swan and
Faulknor, after many delays, difficulties, and perplexities, had
arrived safely at the Lualaba river, from which they had forwarded
my letters, and in a few days they would be with me. What was
I to do? Should I remain and make the house as comfortable
as possible for their reception, or start at once to meet them?
I decided to adopt the first course, as being the most sensible.

l887-l Stay in Garenganze. 225
MATAYA AND HER SON PARDONED.
Pedro, the bearer of these letters, had also brought for Msidi a
piece of handkerchief and a message from the two brethren. To
deliver these he at once started for the king's court. At that
time Msidi's wife, Mataya, one of the queens of the country, and
her eldest son, were being tried for having bewitched her younger
son. This younger son was more liked by the chief than the
elder, and had gone to Sombwe in a war party (under the command
of the chiefs nephew, Molenga), where he was shot. The diviners
declared that he had been bewitched by someone, that his body
had been stripped of its charms, and he had thus become exposed
to the enemy's bullets. Suspicion fell on the lad's mother and
elder brother, who were consequently brought to trial. The
evidence against them was, that on the day of the departure
of the war party, the elder son hid the gun of his younger brother,
and, when the latter demanded his gun, he refused to give it up,
saying, " Neither of us is beloved of the chief, why then should
we go and fight his battles?" The mother interfered, and said,
"Give the lad his gun; if he be killed, what matter? Certainly
the chief won't weep for him." The elder brother was condemned
to be shot, but Mataya's sentence was deferred for a final day of
deliberation, when all in authority were to be gathered. This
court was sitting when the news reached Msidi that Messrs. Swan
and Faulknor were at.the borders of his country. Mataya was at
once pardoned, and the sentence of death passed upon her elder
son commuted to one of banishment for life, the chief joyfully
declaring that no human blood should be shed upon the arrival
of these his white guests, and the piece of coloured handkerchief
that the brethren had sent was handed to Mataya by Msidi as a
proof of her pardon.
PREPARATIONS TO RECEIVE FELLOW-LABOURERS.
Msidi sent one of his own sons to meet the caravan, bearing
with him Msidi's welcome, as well as letters of greeting and
hearty welcome from me ; and I at once turned my attention to
making things as comfortable as possible for their arrival. Some
mats that had been made for me out of plaited strips of palm
leaves were sewn together to form a ceiling, and racks and
Q

226 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Dec
shelves were made to receive what goods these friends might
bring, in order to place them above the reach of the white
ants. To obtain the wood we had to make excursions to
the forest. The legs of a round table I had been making
were already in the rough, and these I had to dress down
and fit together.
While busy with my preparations, tidings came of the near
approach of the white men, so leaving everything in the hands of
my boys I started off to meet them, going along the usual caravan
road. After proceeding for some distance without hearing from
the natives any report of their advance, I became concerned,
but thought that possibly they might have taken the by-way over
the hills, and therefore returned to my cottage to await their
arrival. At such a time it was impossible to do nothing, so I
began to rig up a flagstaff. With a long bamboo rod bound
to my hammock pole, I made an awkward-looking flagstaff, which
I fastened to my pigeon-house, and a tattered Union Jack was
got ready for hoisting.
December 16th. — The first signal I had of the arrival of the
strangers was the firing of three pistol shots in the distance.
Running out of the door, I tried to hoist my Union Jack, but
the line had got thick and twisted with the heavy rains, so I only
succeeded in getting the flag half way up. Starting down the
hill as quickly as possible, I met Mr. Swan some little distance
from my house. From letters forwarded from the Lualaba I
knew his name, and his object in coming, so we rejoiced to meet
as brethren. His companion, Mr. Faulknor, remained with the
caravan, expecting to follow in a couple of days, and Dick and
Susi at once started with a hammock to help him on. On his
arrival with the caravan, we were able to rejoice and thank God
together for His mercy to us.
After storing away the goods, we sought to make the fifty
sturdy carriers as comfortable as possible. Msidi sent up many
presents of food, etc., for them, and after a few days, during
which he was much occupied with state matters, he appointed a
day for the reception of the two white strangers. It may be well
for me to give Mr. Swan's description of this, and the notes he
made during the first few weeks of his stay.

l887-] Stay in Garenganze. 227
MR. SWAN'S NOTES — INTERVIEW WITH MSIDI.
December 20th. — Msidi has sent us many kind messages and
scores of loads of food. He is gathering his chiefs together for
the time when he will formally receive his white visitors.
24th. — Visited Msidi, and found him surrounded by his head
men and counsellors. He sat under the verandah surrounding
one of his wives' houses, and Molenga, his nephew, sat at a little
distance from him. They both held out their hands, and as we
shook hands they gave us a hearty welcome to their country.
Msidi is undoubtedly the most powerful chief in this part of
Central Africa, and his name is a terror in all the country through
which we have passed. After greeting ceremonies were over, I
told him we had come to his country in accordance with his
invitation sent through our friend Mr. Arnot, and if he still
wished it, we would stay, teach his people to read and write,
and to understand the word of God. We thus sought to throw
on him the responsibility of our being here. This is safest, and
may be useful to refer to in the future. He said he was very
glad we had come, and hoped we should like his country.
In interpreting my words to his people, he said we had come
as teachers from God, to put them all right, give them all the
wisdom of books, and to heal all the sick people in his country.
"Yes," he said, "in a short time there will be no more sick
people here, for they have brought lots of medicines." He is a
short, stout man, with a fine head, and has a very cunning mind.
He seems to be much attached to Mr. Arnot, and says he will
accompany him when he returns to England; but this is only
talk. 21th. — Br. Arnot visited Msidi, and asked when it would be
convenient for us to have another interview with him, as we had
brought him a present of cloth. He said he did not want any
present; the white men had come to their own country, and all
was settled. " However," said he, " if you like you may give my
two head wives a small present." This was only another way of
accepting the present; for all that his wives have is his.
28th.— Visited the king again, and found him seated between
his two head wives (both mulattoes). We had a pleasant chat
together, and amused him by answering all his questions con-
q 2

228 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Jan.
cerning our clothes, relatives, and country. As he sat looking
at us, he remarked to his wives, " These are English ; fine, brave
people. The three of them could put us all to flight."
About mid-day a large tablecloth was spread on the ground,
and Msidi's four white men (we three and Augusto, the trader) sat
down and partook of his hospitality— boiled and roast goat, mush
(of millet corn), and rice. The king declared that his heart was
very white (i.e., free from evil thoughts) now that his white children
had arrived safely. At his request we sang a few hymns in
English and Umbundu ; but when he heard our Bailundu boys
sing, he said, "Why do white people stay there to teach the
people ? Why not come out here at once ? " Shortly after this
we left.
January 4th, 1888.— Mr. Arnot brought word that Msidi had
honoured me by calling one of his children after me — Swana
(native way of pronouncing my name).
10th. — Msidi came to visit us, and we amused him much by
showing him photos, pictures, etc. ; and after partaking of some
food, he went away evidently favourably impressed with his visit.
QUEEN CHITOMPA'S RETURN FROM WAR.
2377/. — A few days ago we heard that Chitompa, the king's
favourite wife, had returned from war. About eight months ago
she and a large following went off to the Luba country; and as
they streamed out of the king's enclosure two human victims
were sacrificed, and their blood was used in making the necessary
fetish arrangements.
We happened to call at the king's on the 30th ultimo, and he
asked if we would not go out and greet his wife in the war-camp,
as she was anxious to see the newly-arrived white men. We
went out with him, and he introduced us to this wife, and we sang
a few Umbundu hymns to their great delight. At night the king
slept in our tent. A great deal of firing and dancing was kept
up during the night, and the warriors with their dark bodies and
whitened faces were undoubtedly fierce-looking in the glare of the
camp fires. On returning next morning we found a man lying
with three spear wounds in his body, and on enquiring were told
he had been trespassing. We ordered some men to carry him off,
as he had lost a large quantity of blood.

l888-l Stay in Garenganze. 229
On the day set apart for the formal reception of Chitompa and
her party Mr. Arnot was not well, so Mr. Faulknor and I went
down to see the proceedings. On reaching the king's we saw
him coming out with a head-dress of parrots' tail feathers; his
body and arms were covered with cloth of the most gaudy colours,
and his face was whitened with clay (the sign of a white heart !).
Then came Chitompa, borne on her litter, dressed in a similar"
manner. The warriors followed, walking very slowly and singing
their doleful war-song, while the skulls of their victims were to be
seen either in their hands or dangling at their waists ; one even
had a skull hanging from his teeth. They began their dance
amidst the firing of guns, and kept it up in a monotonous way.
Then, retiring in an orderly manner, they returned one by one,
brandishing their spears, and laid the skulls at the feet of the
king. The headman (captain) next gave about an hour's oration,
after which he danced, and the women standing round about
carried him small presents. Chitompa made her speech, danced,
received presents, and retired. After this Molenga came and
did likewise, and having declared his intention of going off to
war soon, retired. Other headmen also made speeches. The
king then came down from his litter, replied to the speeches, and
made a lame attempt to dance.
This . ended the proceedings. Such scenes are very strange
and wild to a new-comer, but their wars are not such bloody
affairs as one might suppose.
Msidi's rule is very severe, yet we do not altogether condemn
him in this, for in no other way could order be kept among his
people, and it must be clearly understood that he only is king, and
that his authority is absolute. Take the following as an example,
A young man whom I often saw, named Kaweya, was shot the
other day by order of the chief. He had received more than one
warning, but gave little or no heed. Sometime ago he got drunk,
• and bit off the end of the finger of one of the king's wives.
For this offence he was buried in the ground up to the neck for
about six hours, and when taken out all his skin came off. For
some other offence he received a like punishment, and was told
that had he not been a chiefs son (one of those conquered by
Msidi) he would have been shot for the first offence. Lastly, he
was charged with throwing down one of Molenga's wives and

230

Seven Years in Central Africa. [Feb. 1888.

breaking her arm. Molenga immediately made this known to
the king, and Msidi's prompt answer was, " Shoot him."
February 24th. — You will be glad to hear that Mr. Arnot has
decided to return home with the men who brought us in. We
found him much improved in health — in fact, in good health ;
but as he still suffers at times from the spleen, we think it will be
well for him to return for medical advice, etc.
February 26th. — Mr. Arnot expects to leave to-morrow, so I
must bring my letter to a close.
DETERMINE TO LEAVE FOR ENGLAND.
With the above extracts from Mr. Swan's notes I conclude this
part of my narrative ; but before giving brief particulars of my
homeward journey, it may be well to add a short chapter on the
Garenganze kingdom.

An African Girl.

Her hair is dressed in imitation of buffalo's horns. Cowrie shells cover the
head, and a wealth of beads hangs round her neck.

VI.
Cfre ©arenganje femgoom anD people.
How Msidi Obtained his Kingdom— Trade Opened with the West Coast-
Boundaries of the Kingdom — Msidi's Wives and Chiefs — Ivory, Msidi's
only Tribute— The Mukurru a. Great Trade Centre— Variety of Tribes-
Witchcraft Put Down — Men Transformed into Animals — Fetishes in
Warfare — Fetishes Against Wild Animals— Trade Castes — Msidi's Salt
Pan — Human Sacrifices — Rights in Land- — The Position of Women — The
Presentation of Twins to the King — How Slaves are made.
HOW MSIDI OBTAINED HIS KINGDOM.
The portion of Central Africa now known as "Garenganze"
is called by the aborigines Sanga. It borders on Katanga, the
famous copper-producing district, often referred to in Livingstone's
travels, which was tributary to the chief of Sanga. Kalasa, the
father of Msidi, the present ruler of Garenganze, was a minor
chief under Mirambo, the great chief of the Unyamwesi country,
to the east of Lake Tanganyika. Kalasa was a trader in copper,
and after frequent visits to Sanga a close friendship sprang up
between him and the old chief of that country. On one occasion
Msidi (who was Kalasa's second son) made a visit to Sanga
instead of his father. Guns as a means of warfare were then
entirely unknown in the central regions of Africa. Msidi, how
ever, had possessed himself of four guns for his party, and on
arriving in the Sanga country he found the old chief at war
with a powerful chief to the north of him, who with his people,
the Baluba, was invading the Sanga country. Msidi came to the
rescue of his father's friend, and after a few shots from his party,
the Baluba, alarmed at the new weapons of war, took flight.
Naturally the old Sanga chief was pleased with Msidi, who had
thus delivered him and his people out of the hands of their
enemies, and determined to reward him handsomely. This he

232

Seven Years in Central Africa.

did by handing over to him large presents of ivory, urging him
to return to his country as soon as possible.
Msidi, seizing every advantage to be derived from this old chiefs
friendship, went back to his own town in the Unyamwesi country,
then started again for Sanga with wife and children, and such
friends as were willing to follow him. Amongst those who thus
set out with him was a lad, a nephew of Msidi's, named Molenga,
who now occupies an important position in Msidi's kingdom.

Guns versus Spears— A Scene often enacted by Arabs.

Finding that his friend the chief of the Sanga had grown old
and feeble, Msidi promised that he would not again leave, but
would remain in the country to receive the chieftainship, of which
a promise had been made him. In a short time the old man,
perceiving that his end was near, gave up to Msidi the "omande"
shell, which answers to the European crown, and installed Msidi
as chief of the Basanga. In the exercise of his newly-acquired
power Msidi put to death every one who opposed him, or any
who were likely to do so ; and carried on aggressive warfare in
all the countries round about, defying the powerful chief Kasembe,
on the eastern banks of the Luapula, who had formerly received
a measure of tribute from the old Sanga chief. Kasembe deter-

The Garenganze Kingdom and People. 233
mined to punish Msidi for his rebellious conduct, and to this end
invaded his country. Msidi, however, was successful, with the
help of the Ovimbundu traders from the Bihe" country, in resisting
Kasembe, and in declaring his independence. He next added
to his kingdom the Luba country to the north, and encouraged
the coming of emigrants and refugees from the Lunda country,
who were ready to flee from the oppression of the great Muate
Yanvo power, now almost extinct. Thus by fair means or
foul Msidi gathered round him a large number of followers,
inviting also many of his own tribe from the Unyamwesi
country to come and occupy prominent positions in the king
dom that he had formed, and which he was pleased to call
the Garenganze country.

TRADE OPENED WITH THE WEST COAST.
One circumstance that led to Msidi's wonderful success shows
his wisdom. From the east coast guns, powder, and articles of
war used to be obtained, and this made him dependent on the
tribes to the east of him. He believed, however, in the existence
of a west coast, and thought it might be possible to procure from
thence his war stores. In hope of attaining his object, he sent his
nephew Molenga with a number of men westward in search of trade
and traders — really on an exploring expedition. In the Lovale
country Molenga met with a coloured trader named Domingo,
from the Portuguese province of Angola. After hearing Molenga's
story about the powerful chief far in the interior, who had much
ivory to dispose of, and who was in quest of powder, guns, cloth,
etc., Domingo started for Bihe", and informed the Portuguese
trader, Silva Porto, who thereupon equipped a trading caravan,
and sent it in under the charge of a black pombero named Jao.
This man succeeded in reaching Msidi's country, and supplied
him with powder, guns, and cloth in exchange for ivory. After
Jao had made two or three trips between Garenganze -yid the
west coast (other native Bihe" traders also joining in the enterprise),
Msidi was enabled to assert his independence, and to proceed
with his aggressions upon' the surrounding tribes, and thus
became established as the paramount chief over an immense
tract of country.

234 Seven Years in Central Africa.
BOUNDARIES OF THE KINGDOM.
The actual boundaries of the present Garenganze empire are
--on the east the Luapula river; on the west the Lualaba; on the
south the hills dividing the Zambesi and the Congo water
systems ; and to the north the Lupemba and Moero lakes. But
in addition a large district of country beyond these limits is
tributary to Msidi, though not under his own immediate rule.
MSIDI'S WIVES AND MINOR CHIEFS.
In order to render the government of this vast territory secure,
Msidi appointed minor chiefs in the great centres of population.
Each of these receives from him an omande shell as a sign of
office. These minor chiefs appoint their own officials, one of
whom wears a shell on his breast, and is called the "mother" of
the chief, because of the part he takes on the day of coronation,
when the chief, after days of close confinement, is brought forth
on the shoulders of his "mother." Another official wears two
lion's claws, fitted into one another so as to form a circle, which
hangs from a strip of lion's hide worn round the neck. He is
called "the man under the bed," as it is his duty to lie there
during the time that the chief is confined to his hut. These
minor chiefs are each supposed to have some relative married to
Msidi, and these wives of the king are really their " friends at
court," through whom all communications with Msidi are carried
on. Msidi also employs these women as officers of state, and
they have often other districts to superintend besides those ruled
over by their own relatives.
IVORY, MSIDI'S ONLY TRIBUTE.
The minor chiefs have charge of the government in their own
districts, but all serious cases that arise have to be referred to the
king, who reserves to himself the right of taking human life.
The minor chiefs are supposed to bring all ivory as tribute to the
capital; but rubber, slaves, and other articles of trade of less
value, are left at their own disposal. To secure this ivory tribute
the king has many officers stationed all over the country, whose
duties are to watch and report upon the conduct of these sub-
rulers, and to take especial care that all ivory is sent to the

The Garenganze Kingdom and People. 235
capital. These officers employ many spies of their own, so that
it is almost impossible for any elephant-hunting to go on without
their knowledge ; and when an elephant is killed or found dead
these officers at once learn all about it— the size of its tusks, etc.
Should the chief find out by means of this secret service that one
of the minor chiefs has been possessing himself of ivory, or
secretly disposing of it to traders, he instantly, without giving any
warning, sends a company of his soldiers to kill him ; his villages
are attacked and reduced to ashes, and all his people are carried
off. By this means ivory-stealing or smuggling may be said to be
prevented, and it is very seldom attempted. Thus, without
books, without archives, or the machinery of civilization, this
great man rules the whole country, sitting quietly at his capital,
and knowing exactly what is going on in all parts of his empire,
and he is everywhere feared.
THE CAPITAL A GREAT TRADE CENTRE.
At Msidi's capital I have met with native traders from Uganda ;
the Unyamwesi country; the Ungala, to the east of Lake
Tanganyika; the Luba country, almost as far down as the
Stanley Falls; the basin of the Zambesi; Zumbu, Bihe", and
Angola, as well as Arab traders from Lake Nyassa and Zanzibar.
Copper, salt, ivory, and slaves are the chief articles of commerce.
In exchange for these Msidi purchases flint-lock guns, powder,
cloth, and beads, besides many other curious things that these
native and Arab traders bring. It is, indeed, quite an entertain
ment when Msidi opens out his stores and exhibits his treasures,
in doing which he seems to take a peculiar pleasure. His
collection contains tins of meat unopened, musical boxes,
concertinas, guns and pistols, all kinds of opera glasses, scientific
instruments (generally out of order), trinkets of every imaginable
description, watches and jewellery ; also cast-off clothing, varying
in quality and colour from the sombre blue of the London
policeman's uniform to the gorgeous dress of some Portuguese
governor. The natives cultivate large quantities of Kaffir corn, maize,
rice, sweet potatoes, yams, onions, peanuts, cassava, etc. They
are a decidedly industrious race of people, and their love of
hoeing and other menial occupations shows that they are not

236 Seven Years in Central Africa.
naturally filled with martial desires, as the Matabele and Zulu
races appear to be, but seem rather to have been compelled
to assume the aggressive in defence of their very existence.
VARIETY OF TRIBES. WITCHCRAFT PUT DOWN.
One remarkable feature of the Garenganze kingdom is the
peaceable dwelling together of the remnants of various tribes
under one chief. To bring this about Msidi has, of course,
to exercise a great deal of tact, and he shows considerable
ability in dealing with the many questions that come before him,
arising from the tribal jealousies that are continually at work
in his dominions. It is frequently found that the men of one
tribe are jealous of those of another, dwelling in the next
compound, and speaking a different dialect, and are ready to
trace to them all their disasters. In the past, charges and trials
for witchcraft were very common, and threatened to keep the
country in a perpetual state of turmoil and strife. Msidi, how
ever, met the difficulty by declaring himself to be the only wizard
in the kingdom — that is, the only person invested with any magic
power — and so the tribes have now to cast about for other means
of bringing their petty enmities and jealousies to bear upon one
another. The variety of tribes that has just been alluded to, constitutes
an element of weakness in the kingdom, and it would probably
soon be disintegrated if the ruler were not a man of marked
character. A somewhat similar state of things existed in the
Barotse valley when the great Makololo chief ruled, and now
there is nothing but strife and confusion there, Liwanika being a
man destitute of decision and power.
MEN SAID TO BE TRANSFORMED INTO ANIMALS.
I have often tried to chide the Garenganze people for their
want of bravery in not hunting down the many wild animals that
prey around their towns, carrying off the sick people, and
frequently attacking and seizing solitary strangers. They excused
themselves by explaining that these wild animals are really " men
of other tribes," turned by the magic power they possess, into the
form of lions, panthers, or tigers, who prowl about to take
vengeance on those against whom they are embittered. In

Tke Garenganze Kingdom and People. 237
defending this absurd theory, one man said it was not possible
for a Luba and Lamba man to go out into the country together
without one stealing a march on his neighbour, getting out of
sight, and returning again in the form of a lion or leopard and
devouring his travelling companion. Such things, they say, are of
daily occurrence amongst them ; and this foolish superstition leads
them not only to tolerate the wild animals around, but almost to
hold them sacred. FETISH IN WARFARE.
Though naturally brave and fearless of danger, these people
have a superstitious horror of anything that appears to them
to be sacrilege, and this has brought upon them the reproach
of cowardice. For instance, when two chiefs meet in war, victory
does not depend merely on strength and courage, as we should
suppose, but on fetish medicines. If some men on the side
of the more powerful chief fall, they at once retire and acknow
ledge that their medicines have failed, and they cannot be
induced to renew the conflict on any consideration. When
brought into actual contact with wild animals, however, they
generally conduct themselves very bravely, and with great skill
and self-possession. I knew a man who was attacked by a
leopard, the animal springing at his head, and dragging him
almost to the ground. ' He succeeded in catching the leopard by
its fore legs, threw it down, put his knees on its chest, broke
its ribs, and thus killed it.
FETISH AGAINST WILD ANIMALS.
Africans believe largely in preventive measures, and their fetish
charms are chiefly of that order. In passing through a country
where leopards and lions abound they carefully provide themselves
with the claws, teeth, lips, and whiskers of those animals, and
hang them round their necks, to secure themselves against being
attacked. For the same purpose the point of an elephant's trunk
is generally worn by elephant hunters. The bones from the legs of
tortoises are much valued as anklets, in order to give the wearers
endurance, reminding one of the fable of the tortoise. The
lower jaw bone of the tortoise is worn by certain tribes as a
preventive against toothache. The spine bones of serpents are
strung together with a girdle as a cure for backache.

238 Seven Years in Central Africa.
One morning I shot a hyena in my yard. The chief sent up
one of his executioners to cut off its nose and the tip of its tail,
and to extract a little bit of brain from the skull. The man
informed me that these parts were very serviceable to elephant
hunters, as securing for them the cunning, tact, and power to
become invisible, which the hyena is supposed to possess. I
suppose that the brain would represent the cunning, the nose the
tact, and the tip of the tail the vanishing quality. The stomach
of the hyena is valued by the Ovimbundu as a cure for
apoplexy. Many have a superstious dread of the horned night
owl. Its cry is considered an evil omen, which can only be
counteracted effectually by possessing a whistle made out of the
windpipe of the same bird. Jackals are also very much disliked.
The weird cry of one of these animals will arouse the people of a
whole village, who will rush out and call upon the spirit-possessed
animal to be quiet and leave them, or to come into the village
and they will feed and satisfy it. When travelling they are
careful to notice the direction this animal may take. Should its
cry come from the direction in which they are going they will not
venture a step further until certain divinations have been per
formed, that they may learn the nature of the calamity about to
befall them. TRADE CASTES.
Not many traces of caste are to be found in Africa. There is, of
course, an aristocracy of mighty men, and the richer members of
society rule over the poorer, but some trade castes exist in the
Garenganze country. The copper mines are wrought and the
copper smelted out; of the malachite ore by certain families. This
business is handed down from father to son, and the instructions
of forefathers are followed with the greatest accuracy. At one
place the copper is cast in the -form of a capital H, and the
angles of this figure are perfect. At other mines it is cast in the
form of a Maltese cross, the mould being made in the sand by
the workers, with their fingers ; and out of twenty casts from
such moulds scarcely a fourth or an eighth of an inch difference
is discernible.The malachite from which the copper is extracted is found in
large quantities on the tops of certain bare, rugged hills. In
their search for it the natives dig little round shafts, seldom

The Garenganze Kingdom and People. 239
deeper than 15 or 20 feet. They have no lateral workings, but
when one shaft becomes too deep for them, they leave it and
open another.
Other families are given to the working of iron. The iron
ore is smelted in a very simple way. Large trenches are dug in
the ground, and having been filled with iron ore and charcoal, are
afterwards covered with soft mud, openings being left at both
ends. The fire is lit at one end, and boys are employed to
blow little bellows night and day, so as to produce a current of
air, and keep up the fire. After several days the trench is
broken open, and the reduced metal taken out.
They manufacture this iron into hoes, axe-heads, spears, knives,
and bullets. Some of the iron workers are most ingenious men ;
they can repair all the parts of a gun, and can make, besides
numerous other things, " correntes " — long heavy chains for tying
slaves together. I broke a little camp bedstead close to one of
its joints, and upon calling in one of these men to help, he put in
an entirely new piece, and of such good metal that it was the
strongest part about the bedstead.
The right of fishing in the rivers is also confined to certain
families, who, however, are generally looked down upon by
others, as fish is by many African tribes considered unclean
food. These fishermen catch large quantities of barbel, which are
very good for food when dried in the sun. They are chiefly
caught in long baskets with inverted bottoms, or by spearing, at
which they are very dexterous. Why fish should be unclean
in the sight of certain tribes is a mystery to me, as generally
these people are found to be capable of eating almost anything
else. When pressed for a reason such men have told me that
it is because fish is slippery, and would sicken them. They
have often given me the same reason for not eating the flesh
of young animals. I doubt not, however, that their antipathies
in these matters must be traced to early traditions.
MSIDI'S SALT-PAN. HUMAN SACRIFICES.
The gathering of salt is carried on in the district, and this
forms one staple article of trade. Msidi possesses a large
salt-pan, from which during the dry season a great quantity of

240 Seven Years in Central Africa.
salt is gathered. The heat of the sun seems to draw the salt
out of the ground in the form of an efflorescence, which is so
abundant, that from the space of two yards square they will
perhaps be able to sweep together 50 lbs. of salt. Msidi's salt
pan is opened once a year with a religious ceremony, and two
human victims are sacrificed in order that the process of salt-
gathering that year may not be interfered with by the spirits
of departed chiefs.
A similar course is pursued in nearly all their occupations.
They seek to prevent disaster, and to assure themselves of success
by means of human sacrifices. And it is indeed surprising to
see how even the poor victims themselves seem to enter into
the spirit of the delusion, taking farewell of their friends, and
going quietly to be sacrificed, and many of them even delighting
in being called to do so at the king's pleasure. No especial
selection appears to be made in providing the victims, but
the king merely says that one and another are to be taken and
slaughtered. RIGHTS IN LAND.
All persons in the Garenganze seem to have equal rights, so far
as land and forest are concerned. They can cultivate wherever
they please, and have only to go to the forest for firewood or
timber when it is wanted. In some parts of Africa attempts are
made to restrict the use of the land, although there is plenty
of it, but in the Garenganze this is not so. Perhaps the only
rights connected with the land are what may be called hunting
rights. Minor chiefs and headmen over certain districts reserve
to themselves the right of organising what are called "fire-hunts."
All the people are then called out, the grass is set on fire, and the
wild animals are chased up the ravines and valleys and killed in
great numbers. ' At one fire-hunt on the Lufira 200 elephants
were, to my knowledge, killed in a few days.
CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL.
The cultivation of the ground is considered a purely domestic
duty. It really devolves upon the female portion of the com
munity, although the men help in the heavier work of tilling the
ground and cutting the corn when ripe. The sowing, and also
the watching of the growing corn, is left to the women. When

The Garenganze Kingdom and People. 24.1
the corn ripens, large stands have to be erected in the gardens, on
the top of which little huts are built, perhaps fifteen feet above
the ground, where the watchers sit to keep off birds and fowls by
day, and wild animals by night. During the summer the'nights
are continually disturbed by the shouts of these watchers,
mingling strangely with the wilder cries of hyenas and other
prowling animals. THE POSITION OF WOMEN.
The rights and privileges given to women in the Garenganze
country form one of the remarkable features of Msidi's govern
ment. Women are allowed to attend the courts, and to have
a voice equally with the men, and Msidi succeeds pretty well in
dispensing equal justice. Should a man beat or habitually ill-
treat his wife, Msidi will allow her to return to her father without
granting any compensation to the inhuman husband, even though
he may have paid the father a heavy dowry.
TWIN CHILDREN.
As a rule, these simple people are fond of their children.
Cases of infanticide are very rare, and then only because of
some deformity. Twins, strange to say, are not only allowed to
live, but the people delight in them.
Mr. Swan thus describes a ceremony he was made to share in :
" While visiting Msidi my attention was drawn to a crowd of folk,
mostly women, who approached singing, and ringing a kind of
bell. They formed in lines opposite to us. In front of the rest
were a man and woman, each holding a child, not more than a
few days old. I then learned that the little ones were twins, the
man and woman holding them being the happy parents, who had
come to present their offspring to the king. They wore nothing
but a few leaves round their loins — a hint to Msidi, I suppose,
that they would like some cloth. After chanting a little, an
elderly woman came forward with a dish in her left hand, and an
antelope's tail in her right. When she reached Msidi, I was
astonished at her dipping the tail into the dish, and dashing the
liquid over his face. Msidi's wife had a like dose. But my
surprise increased when she came to us and gave us a share.
What was in the dish I cannot say, but it struck me as possessing
R

242 Seven Years in Central Africa.
a very disagreeable odour. This uncourteous creature was the
Ocimbanda (fetish doctor). She did not cease her dousing work
till she had favoured, all sitting around. The king then went into
the house, and his wife came out with some cloth, which she tied
round the mother's waist ; and then a piece of cloth was given to
the husband. The friends had brought some native beer, and
when Msidi came out he went to one ofthe pots, filled his mouth,
spurting the beer into his wife's face ; she did the same to him, after
which the spurting became general. I did not think that Msidi
would stoop to such undignified ways, but they told me it was
their custom to act thus when twins were born."
The dangers children are exposed to, where wild animals are so
numerous, compels the parents to take especial care of them. I
did not understand this at first, and used often to grieve over the
fact that I could not get the children to come freely to my house,
till I learned that it was because of the parents' care for them
that they were not allowed to leave their own compounds without
permission. Children of slaves are treated as " nobody's " children, though
they are the property of "somebody." The life of a slave can
be compensated for by cloth, goats, or other things of like value ;
but the life of "somebody's" child can only be compensated for
by five slaves. If a freeborn child were lost or devoured by wild
animals, the father would have to pay its value to his wife's
relatives, as, strange to say, freeborn children are in some parts
supposed to belong entirely to their mother.
HOW SLAVES ARE MADE.
The actual slaves of the country are either captives newly
taken in war, or the children of slaves ; but their descendants
after the third or fourth generation, are reckoned as free-born.
War is, to a great extent, carried on for the sake of making
captives ; and on account of this the king has often difficulty in
restraining his soldiers from extending their raiding expeditions
mercilessly, when once he has banded them together to attack any
chief. I never saw Msidi to better advantage than when, one day
addressing his own nephew, he declared his indignation against
him because, having been sent out to attack a rebel chief, he had
afterwards raided upon some peaceful Lamba villages to enrich

The Garenganze Kingdom and People. 243
himself with slaves. Msidi at once ordered this nephew to go and
attack a powerful tribe to the north of his territory, who had long
defied him, as the only way of redeeming his character for bravery.
And he declared that cowardice alone had led his nephew to
attack the undefended Lamba people.
Large numbers of slaves are brought into the capital every
year by returning war parties, and are sold chiefly to Arab traders
from Zanzibar and to Ovimbundu traders from Bihe. Strong
young men have been sold for ten or twelve yards of cotton
cloth. Children able to walk are perhaps worth a little, but
infants are considered a drug in the market, and it is generally to
the advantage of the slave dealers to make away with them.
They will not often allow a mother to carry her own child, think
ing to employ her more profitably by making her carry ivory or
food ; and so these little ones are generally cast out to the hyenas
or thrown into the rivers.

An African Woman.
The careworn appearance that is very common among middle-aged
women is here shown.

VII.
iReturn STounieg*
(March, 1888, to September, 1888.)
En Route— A Story of Two Slave Children— Bridge-building— Avoid the
Desolated Country— Nana Kandundu at War with Kangombe— Nana
Victorious— A Chief's Honesty— A Caravan Plundered— How the Carriers
do Business — At Bihe— Leave Africa — Reach England.
EN ROUTE.
Molenga's Town, March 13th, 1888.— Much has transpired
since my last letter. I have several sheets by me, all written,
but happily they are now out of date, and I find myself on my
way home! When I heard of my dear brother's death I said,
" Oh, to see all at home again, what would I not give ! " not
dreaming that my way would be opened so soon. I had no
knowledge of N.'s long, painful illness, and news of his death
came like a thunderbolt ; but it was graciously tempered by the
coming of Messrs. Swan and Faulknor, or I know not how I
should have borne it.
Besides the recommendation of friends to think of a change,
and the strong advice of my brethren Swan and Faulknor, other
things greatly influenced me. For instance, our affairs at the
coast require attention, now that more than one are in the field
and things have got beyond the primary stage. I thought to
delay until May, for the sake of having more time with my
brethren, but they both opposed it. Cinyama and the carriers
would not think of waiting longer, so when their time came for
leaving I packed up and came off with them.
Msidi's farewell was quite touching in its way. He was
anxious that I should wait for his son to go with me. I did not
care to encourage this, so declined to wait. At last, after finding

March, 1888.] Return Journey. 245
that I sought nothing from him, he gave me from his side his rod
of authority, or sceptre, assuring me that it would be, to all who
knew him, an assurance of the friendship that exists between us.
A STORY OF TWO SLAVE CHILDREN.
I omitted to note down previously the story of two of my
little ones, so add it here. The Luba country stretches north of
the Garenganze as far as the Stanley Falls. The people are a
noble and unsubdued race. Msidi has great difficulty in bringing
those on the borders of his country into even partial subjection,
as they live in stockaded towns. One year, when Msidi's warriors
were ransacking the district around Katapena, they surprised and
carried off a number of children who were playing and bathing
in a pool near their town. Among them were two girls, Mwepo
and Delunga, who had been fast friends and constant playmates ;
but the rough hands of Msidi's soldiers now separated them, and
they were carried off in different directions. Three years after, I
happened to be sitting in Msidi's yard talking with him, when a
company of slaves were brought in. They were the belongings
of someone who had recently died, and were brought to Msidi
to distribute among the relatives of the deceased man. The
youngest of the slaves was a little girl about nine years of age ;
she was suffering from painful ulcers on the soles of her feet.
After giving away the healthy ones of the number, Msidi turned
and asked if I could do anything with this suffering child ; so I
took her up to my cottage, dressed her sores, and after a little
care and nursing she completely recovered.
A few months later I happened again to be sitting beside
Msidi early one morning, when he asked me to take breakfast
with him. We had not sat long before a little girl entered the
yard and threw herself down at some distance from the chiefs feet,
and did obeisance by rubbing dust on her forehead and arms.
Msidi told her to look up, and asked where she came from, and
what she wanted. She said that she had run away from her
mistress because she had been beaten severely the day before.
It seems that she had travelled all night from the Lunsala district,
six or eight miles down the Unkeya. Some of Msidi's breakfast
lay by me, which I handed in pity to the poor thing, and in a
short time I rose up and left. Upon looking back, I saw the

246 Seven Years in Central Africa. [March,
little girl following me, in charge of one of Msidi's young men,
who told me that Msidi had sent the child after me, saying that
if she was afraid of being beaten she had better follow the
white man. So on she came with me to my cottage. I handed
her over to the care of the other little girl, Mwepo, when, to my
astonishment, they flew into each other's arms, embracing one
another, and weeping. The two Luba free-born children had
met again in my cottage after each had passed through her own
three years of unmixed sorrow and hardship. It was several
days before I was able to do anything with them, so continually
did they hang round each other's necks.
BRIDGE-BUILDING.
Kalala, March 18th. — Had much trouble in crossing the Lunda
rivers, as our route on this occasion lay further south, where
the streams are wider. To-day we were detained six hours at the
Luache. The river was very much swollen, and rushed past with
such force that we could not bridge it in the usual way. As a
rule, bridges are easily formed. Forked poles are cut, and the
lower ends, when well sharpened, are sunk into the bed of the
river, and worked into the mud or gravel by a rotary movement.
Across two of these natural forks a bearer is laid. Three or four
poles are then pushed out from the bank, resting upon the bearer
and projecting ten or twelve feet beyond. These horizontal poles
are weighted down on the bank end, so as to allow a man to
creep out and place a bearer further out in the river, this opera
tion being repeated until the other bank is reached. Thus in a
few hours a fair company of men can bridge quite a broad river
if the depth is not great. Some men cut the poles in the
forest, others carry them to the river's bank, whilst the more
skilful give themselves to constructing the bridge. But to-day
we found the Luache so swollen that it was not possible to place
piles in the water, so we set to work to fell a large tree growing
on the bank of the river. It was not long enough, however, to
reach across ; but as there were some rocks in the middle, and
more large trees on the other side, I proposed that some of the
men should cross either above or below, and cut down one
of the trees on the other side, and let them meet in the centre.
They did so, but at great peril to their lives. One poor fellow

,888-l Return Journey. 247
lost his balance, and was carried down some distance by the
current, but succeeded in saving himself by laying hold of the
overhanging branch of a tree.

A Narrow Escape.

THE DESERTED COUNTRY AVOIDED.
Nana Kandundu, April 12th. — Have had a good journey thus
far. Remembering how we suffered from want of food in going
to the Garenganze, across the deserted country, I took a different
route, coming more south, where food was plentiful. For several
days we travelled along the Zambesi — quite a large river, though
near its source. Here I found that the powerful chieftainess
had gone off to fight with Kangombe, a Lovale chief, who has
been raiding down the Zambesi with quite a large army. Her
ladyship of this place objected, and has gone to defend her
subjects. NANA KANDUNDU AT WAR WITH KANGOMBE.
April 13th. — The contending forces, we hear, have met twelve
miles or so from this place. All are much alarmed by the
many conflicting reports and the sound of distant firing ; armed

248 Seven Years in Central Africa. [May,
men are pouring in and going on to the fray from all
directions. Her ladyship's litter has come back to her town ;
so she means to fight like the ancient heroes who burned their
bridges behind them.
14^, midnight. — A messenger from Nana Kandundu calls me
and my men to her aid. Five camps of Ovimbundu have
gathered round me, mustering in all four or five hundred. I
declare neutrality, but promise to protect her ladyship's person,
should she be worsted and come to my camp. She has done
well in going out to protect the down-trodden Lunda tribes
along the Upper Zambesi, upon whom Kangombe has long been
preying. She effectually demonstrates the superior humanity of
female government, and I hope to welcome her victorious return.
NANA VICTORIOUS.
April 20th.— Nana returned safely. It seems that after one
sharp fight Kangombe fled under cover of the darkness.
A CHIEF'S HONESTY.
Baho, near Katema, May ist.- — -We were detained here some
days. A gun belonging to one of Cinyama's men was stolen
from camp. The chief promised to recover it for us. After some
days' delay the thief was tracked, caught, and both thief and
gun were presented to Cinyama's man. For this remarkable
piece of honesty the chief of Baho demanded a handsome
present. I assured him that it would suffice to restore the gun,
and that the thief might be allowed to go back to his village with
a suitable warning. This proposal did not at all please the chief.
He wanted a fancy-coloured blanket, some cast-off clothing,
or something else that really would be of more value to, him
than this old gun, or the man who had stolen it. After four
days' delay and trouble we marched off, leaving the gun in
the hands of the chief, his court-fees being so exorbitant that we
could not possibly accept his decision.
A CARAVAN PLUNDERED.
In travelling along we heard reports of the plundering of
a caravan that had gone out some months before, carrying
letters from Mr. Swan and myself. Upon reaching the Lumese

l888-l Return Journey. 249
river, on the borders of Kangombe's country, I gathered the
following particulars : The man in charge of this caravan, in
his haste to get on, ventured to pass one of the regular camping-
places, where a small chief was in the habit of receiving some
trifling present by way of tribute. He tried to stop the caravan,
but it went on ; so the Lovale people gathered in larger numbers
and opened fire upon the company, which was not a large one.
Finally, they were all surrounded and driven into the river
Chofigo. Sixteen of their number perished in the water ; others
were badly wounded, and plundered of all they carried. The
box which contained our letters was carried down the stream,
picked up some miles off, and taken to the village of another
small chief. I went there and asked for my letters. The chief
replied, "Oh, yes, I have them all right!" But he wanted a
little present for the good care he had taken of them. I was
overjoyed to hear that they were all safe, and gladly gave the
man a few rings of copper wire from the Garenganze country.
In a short time he appeared with my letters, but what a sight
they presented ! All had been opened and spread out to be
examined time after time, by way of entertaining the chief's
visitors. I suppose, not knowing how to fold them, they crushed
them together, with the result that nothing was left but a
handful of shreds, like shavings from a carpenter's workshop.
I was too disgusted to think of preserving them as a curiosity,
so threw them into the fire.
HOW THE CARRIERS DO BUSINESS.
The natives along the road do not expect to get beads or
cloth from outgoing caravans in exchange for the food which
they bring to camp for sale, but look for the produce of the
interior. Consequently I provided my men with large quantities
of salt at the Garenganze, also with copper anklets and finely-
drawn wire, which are to be had there, and are much valued
by the Lovale and Chibokwe races. In the upper Lovale country
my men exchanged the larger part of the salt they carried for
dried fish, which is in great demand amongst the Chibokwe. As
the Chibokwe cultivate and prepare large quantities of castor-oil,
my men exchanged the fish for castor-oil, which is a commodity
greatly valued by the Valoimbe along the eastern bank of the-

250 Seven Years in Central Africa. [Sept. 1888.
Quanza, and also among the inhabitants of Bihe. The Valoimbe
too are great fishermen, and I observed my men again exchanging
the castor-oil they had just bought for fish, which is marketable
>in Bihe". West of Bihe, rubber alone counts, and as my men
are well supplied with it, they take a little from their loads to
pay their expenses down to the coast, where, arriving with 30 or
40 lbs. of rubber, they make a final exchange for cloth, beads,
etc., with which they will set out on their long return journey
to the interior, feeling richly rewarded for all their labour and
ttoil by having a good load of their own upon their backs.
AT BIHE.
I crossed the Quanza on the 3rd of June, and arrived at
Mr. Fay's house in Bihe on the 6th, and there found letters and
-supplies awaiting me, and was able at once to pay off my men.
Finding at Bihe sufficient goods belonging to Messrs. Swan and
Faulknor, I decided to do my best, before proceeding to the
coast, to get off a caravan with supplies for them. Having
heard that Senhor Porto purposed sending some of his native
traders in the direction of Garenganze, I called upon him, and
found that he was willing to forward a few loads from me to
them. Accordingly I deposited with him a few packets of useful
supplies, and after some weeks' delay he procured carriers and
-sent them on to Garenganze.
LEAVE AFRICA  REACH ENGLAND.
The 240 miles from Bihe to Benguella were soon accomplished,
.and after resting there a short time with my friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Sanders, I took passage on board the s.s. Portugal, and arrived
in England September 18th, 1888.

APPENDIX. A.
JWr. arnot's Jpelloto^lahourers.
A FEW remarks are called for regarding the fellow-labourers men
tioned in Mr. Arnot's narrative, to whom he was able to entrust
the small beginning of work that he had made in Garenganze. In the
comparatively limited circle of Christians who knew of Mr. Arnot's
stedfast effort to help Africans much prayerful sympathy was drawn
out, and one and another thought of joining him in his lonely service.
The first to set forth was Mr. Swan, of Sunderland, who proceeded to
Lisbon for a few months to learn Portuguese, which is almost a
necessity in the Benguella district of West Africa. As he was leaving
Lisbon he was joined by a volunteer from Liverpool, Mr. P. Scott.
They proceeded together, reaching Benguella in June, 1886. Their
letters to friends at home were interesting, but we do not wish to
swell this volume by inserting them. First impressions of Benguella
were not favourable. Although the Portuguese have had possessions
on the west coast of Africa for some centuries, the appearance of
the natives made it apparent how little had been done for them.
Though some were well clothed, many had but little covering. Most
seemed as dark and degraded as those unreached in the interior ; and
the employment of women in the ordinary labour of building and
making roads, accompanied by men with long rods as overseers, did
not tell of much advance in civilization. At the one Roman Catholic
¦chapel very few people attended ; and the ringing of large bells, firing
of guns, and letting off fireworks on saints' days seemed to be the
chief religious observances. It was, however, refreshing to them Jo
see a few children under the care of the American Mission agent and
liis wife, and to hear them sing in their own language some gospel
hymns. When shown a Scripture scrap-book they were delighted, and
were able to recognize many of the persons and scenes in the pictures.
A sort of plundering warfare was then going on between the Bih€ and
Bailundu tribes, because the chief of Bihe" had taken from a caravan

252 Seven Years in Central Africa.
which was passing through his district three tusks of ivory belong
ing to the Bailundu chief. But with the aid of the American
missionaries, Messrs. Scott and Swan reached Bailundu.
Of the climb up to the high land one writes : " The task does not
at first seem difficult ; but after a while you soon find the path is very
narrow and very rough, in many places only a few inches wide, and there
are hills and valleys to be crossed which you had not seen ; and long
before you reach the wished-for spot you are weary and tired out. So
the Christian finds there are many difficulties and trials to be overcome
which he had never thought of, and long ere he reaches the heavenly
goal he is often weary and ready to faint."
These two friends established themselves near to the American
missionaries at Bailundu, and sought to get a knowledge of the natives
and their language while awaiting tidings from Mr. Arnot. The accom
panying illustration shows their tent with group of natives. The boy
upon whom Mr. Swan's hand is resting was trained at the American
Mission, and also the other standing in front of the tent. The boy
with folded arms had come in from the country, and the two men
were carriers. On the left is part of a rough native house.
After a time Mr. Scott's health failed, and the American missionaries
quite thought he would not be able' to proceed to the centre of Africa.
He therefore reluctantly returned to England, but still retains an
interest in Africa, and seeks in many ways to help on the work
to which he had thought to devote himself without charge to others.
His companion saw him safely to the coast and then returned to
Bailundu, and prepared for setting out for Garenganze with Cinyama,
who had been sent back by Mr. Arnot with the hope that he might
find someone desiring to be guided into the interior.
Before Mr. Swan made a start, however, he heard that Mr. W.
L. Faulknor, of Canada, had reached Benguella, so he went to
meet him, and they proceeded to Bailundu, and then to Bihe".
A fire occurred at the mission premises at Bih£, in which some of
Mr. Swan's things were destroyed, but the kindness of the American
friends (Mr. and Mrs. Sanders, and Mr. and Mrs. Fay) was shown
in seeking to make up what had thus been lost, and also in many
other ways. The Bih£ king had suddenly died some time before, after
one of his heavy drinking bouts, and the anarchy which always
follows on the death of a chief rather hindered the setting out of
Messrs. Swan and Faulknor. They experienced the usual difficulties
in getting sekulos and carriers, and in meeting the demands of chiefs.
The reply given by a native boy about this time to a question by
Mr. Swan is worth mentioning. " On the 3rd of August we had one
of the finest moonlight nights I have seen in Africa. As the moon
appeared in all her glory, I thought, No wonder the heathen, in

ks

10

TENT SCENE AT BAILUNDU.

254 Seven Years in Central Africa.
the absence of any knowledge of God, have been led to worship
these beautiful heavenly bodies. I put a few questions about them to
our boy, and in reply to one, ' Who made them ?' he said, ' Suku.
The moon is His candle, and the sun is His fire.' "

A Sekulo.
" The journey from Bihd to the Garenganze occupied three months
and nine days," Mr. Swan writes. " Our carriers did their best to
make the journey uncomfortable, but we were able at all times to
encourage ourselves in God." The men threatened to leave time after
time, but eventually went on to Nana Kandundu, where fresh carriers
were obtained. The exorbitant demands of the chiefs as they passed
through their country, dangers from thieves, fire, shortness of pro
visions, and wild beasts, gave them experiences such as are common
to travellers in Africa. From Nana Kandundu, Mr. Arnot's goods,
carefully stored by the chieftainess, were brought on. Up to the
Lualaba river the country was for the most part flat, but beyond that
it was mountainous and very beautiful. Their meeting Mr. Arnot
is mentioned in his diary. LATEST TIDINGS.
In bringing the narrative down to the latest moment, we may
mention that letters have been received from Mr. Swan, dated
Garenganze, September 3rd, 1888. During the six months after
Mr. Arnot left, no difficulties had occurred with the king. Mr.
Faulknor's health had suffered ; the troublesome insects known as
chegoes, which lay their eggs in the sole of the foot and cause

M. Coillard's Labours in the Barotse Valley. 255;
abscesses, had much disquieted him* Among the natives, raiding on
neighbouring tribes still continued. On one occasion a war party
brought in forty human heads and a number of slaves. The king's
nephew and heir, Molenga, died in July, and on the morning of
his death five persons were slain, five more in the evening, and four at
his burial, " to attend upon him in the spirit world." This was doubt
less done by the king's orders, but he sought to keep the white men in
ignorance of it. His conscience is probably not at ease, but he may not
have courage to break through African customs. There is, of course,
a fear that he may not like the moral restraint which the presence of
our two friends causes, and may some day turn agamst them.
The process of acquiring the Luba language was a slow one, there
being no competent interpreter. Day by day words were noted down,
and the number had been increased to 500.
The young man Dick, whom Mr. Arnot had brought from the
Barotse, and who was much attached to him, had gone off to the
coast to await the arrival of his master ; and the other one, Susi,
was also there.
It is Mr. Arnot's purpose to leave London for Benguella March 23rd,
with four more fellow-labourers. His stay in England will thus havet
been only a few days over six months. B.
Jffl. ODotUarti's Hahours in the ISarotse Fallen.
Mr. Arnot's account of his two trying years among the Barotse cannot fail
to enlist interest on their behalf, and also sympathy with M. Coillard in
his patient and devoted effort to help them. A more sorrowful history
of civil war than that he gives is not often met with, and it makes one
long for trie time when, through the spread of the gospel, a more peaceful
state of matters may prevail. M. Coillard's labours have long been known to
many, but the following letters may convey an idea of his more recent work
to some who have not heard much of him. They will also, we trust, draw
out hearts towards labourers in Africa generally, and especially towards
isolated ones. These letters do not give the latest information regarding
M. Coillard. We fear that he and his wife are now struggling on alone, one
after another of their few helpers having left, and the young medical
missionary, M. Dardier, to whom he refers, having succumbed to fever.— Ed.
EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS TO MR. F. S. ARNOT.
"Lealui, \^th January, 1885.
"It was only yesterday that your kind letter of April, 1884, was
handed to me. It was a disappointment not to have met you. When
* Sufficient attention was- probably not given at the first. Carbolic acid
and other remedies were at hand.

256 M. Coillard's Labours
we arrived at Leshoma we hoped to be able to come on without
loss of time. It was difficult to understand the endless delays of the
Shesheke chiefs, the more so because they were kind to us in their
way. Afterwards it became all clear. The revolution broke out,
Liwanika was overthrown and expelled, and the country thrown into
confusion. I soon perceived that to come and settle here this season
was an utter impossibility. We therefore established ourselves as
well as we could at Leshoma, putting up temporary buildings that
would afford better shelter than tents against heat or rain. We paid
a good many visits to Shesheke, and stayed there a good while
preaching the gospel and teaching.
" The first time the Shesheke chiefs sent for me, thinking on the
strength of Liwanika's messages that I should go at once to the
valley, I took the few goods I wanted for the journey and presents',
with some seven packages for you, which I found at Mr. Blockley's.
When I was obliged to return to Leshoma I left your goods in charge
of Ratau, and when I came back again found them all safe, but my
own had been plundered. I afterwards learned that you had gone to
the west coast. Ratau has now charge of your goods, and I have
many letters for you that I brought from the Mangwato.
" Some time ago the new king, or rather those in power, sent
to bring me here. They have received us far better than I had
reason to expect from men like Mataka. We have still to settle
about the site of the proposed station, and see where the new capital
is to be. All this is to be attended to to-morrow, but they are slow
in their dealings, far more so than any tribe I know. When all
is arranged we shall go back, to return at the beginning of winter
(d.v.) for good. Such are our plans ; we submit them prayerfully
to the Master. He has led us hitherto so graciously and wonderfully
that it is not difficult to commit our way to Him. Let the Lord give
us an entrance, a mighty one, is all we desire. I am sorry to hear
a bad account of your health. I trust, through the Lord's goodness,
your journey to the coast will have proved beneficial, and that you
may come back with renewed vigour, and refreshed in your soul
through your intercourse with our American brethren."
"Shesheke, 26th November, 1885.
" I trust that ere long we shall be able to open communication
with our American brethren at Bihd. It would be indeed a great
advantage if we could find a waggon road, were it only as far as
Bihe". I am afraid marshes and rivers will be the great obstacles.
" I do regret that you should have left the Barotse, and I can truly
say that I make always mention of you in. my prayers. Whatever
you do, be sure you have our heartfelt sympathy; and if you come

In the Barotse Valley. 257
here, remember you will come as one of the Master's own servants
whom we esteem and love. We are engaged in the same work, and
have the same Master. I have still here your -boxes, which I brought
last year. A thief lately stole one of them — an iron one — along with
a small tent of mine. He broke the lock of the box, and when he
found nothing but books and papers he left it in the field, and we
picked it up next morning.
"The country is in a state of revolution again. Liwanika has
come back and seized the power, and Akdfuna has fled with Mataka
and a great number of Mambundas. Shesheke is deserted ; all the
chiefs have taken sides — Ratau and Tahalima for Liwanika ;
Morantsima and Kalishna, etc., for Akiifuna. These have fled to
the country, and prepare, it is whispered, to cross the river ; those
have taken refuge on an island. All our efforts to make peace have
been fruitless. I do not know what is in store for these poor tribes.
The horizon is dark, and the sky very stormy ; it seems as if we were
witnessing the last days of the Barotse nation.
" We are quite alone at Shesheke. The chiefs visit us occasionally,
and I go to them ; but the place has become the haunt of hyenas and
game. We crossed the river in August. For want of oxen we were
not able to pass on. Then the revolution took place. The rains
came on, and we were compelled to decide to stay here till next
winter. Miss Coillard, my niece, was married on the 4th instant to
Mons. Jeanmairit, my colleague, who is to stay here at Shesheke.
We give him some help in rearing up his establishment. Mr.
Blockley, at Leshuma, has taken possession of our ' camp.' We
have reserved the best of our buildings for a dep6t, but it is being
eaten at a fearful rate by boring beetles, they say. The Jesuits have
at last left Panda-ma-tenka for the south. We have been able to
buy many things from them. They have been a providence to us.
Khama and his country have passed under the protectorate of
England. The political news of the Transvaal I know little of,
but war has evidently been averted. From Basutoland I understand
that the work is reviving, and the brethren are cheered.
"When I was at the valley at the beginning of the year I found
one box belonging to you well cared for by a certain Molupe. It had
been respected in the midst of the pillage. Now, my dear brother,
may our gracious Father have you in His safe keeping, and make
His presence more and more real and precious. We all unite in
affectionate salutations." "Lealui, 7th April, 1886.
" It was a surprise and a great pleasure to receive your letter from
Bihe' on your way to the interior.
" I was glad and sad at the same time to see that you were bound
s

258 M. Coillard's Labours
for Garenganze — sad, because we hopelessly lose you here (and I do
believe we could have worked on side by side without treading on
each other's toes) ; glad, because your advanced post is a further step
towards the interior. I sincerely trust that some day we may have
the opportunity of making your acquaintance, and heartily con
gratulate you on your having soon a worthy brother to help you in
the work. Judging from what you say, you mean to settle down and
work at Garenganze. It is a great relief to my mind to know that
you have regular communication with Bihd, though«not frequent. .
" Thieves have had grand times and grand doings at Shesheke with
us. It is dreadful, and I confess it is no easy matter to accept
the spoiling of our goods gladly when done in this way. We have
passed through very perilous times, and no wonder that there should
be an increase of demoralisation. We therefore gird ourselves with
patience, and pray for grace." "Shesheke, 21st June, 1886.
" I wish I could see your face and spend a few moments with you.
That may come some day, though you seem to settle definitely at
Garenganze, and I at Lealui. I send you some papers and a few
letters that I have had for you for more than a year. I hope you will
receive them safely. We are still at Shesheke. The return of
Liwanika, then the usual inundation, not to speak of the dreadful
crisis through which the country has passed — these and other things
have delayed us. We hope to start next month for Lealui, and settle
down somewhere definitely. Liwanika has exterminated his enemies,
even those whom he feared might one day become his enemies.
I never saw such bloodthirsty people, nor such an unquenchable
spirit of revenge. Our hearts bleed for these poor Zambezians.
" This year we have enjoyed comparatively good health ; but
as Shesheke has been deserted, we have not been able to do much
more than to sit and wait, and talk to people who come to sell corn.
We feel that the work before us is an uncommonly hard one. You
know it ; pray for us. Give us news of you when you can. I long to
know if the brother you were expecting has come. The Lord bless
you in your health and in your work. Have you heard of the young
Christians being murdered at Uganda, and Bishop Hannington also
murdered ? Satan's rage shows that his kingdom is in danger."
" Sefula, 23rd March, 1888.
" It is sometimes difficult for me to realize that I have not the
privilege of personally knowing you. I have lived so much with you
in thought and prayer that it seems almost as if I had known you in
the flesh. You have my heartfelt sympathy in your determination to
carry the gospel further into the interior ; I was glad to hear of the

In the Barotse Valley. 2.^9
arrival of two brethren to help you in the work. May you be a united
band, and, though as yet a small one, you shall be strong. Give your
brethren the salutations of an unknown brother, and assure them of
his prayerful remembrance.
" I have not been able to discover on any map Garenganze, but
from information given by some Bihean I place it not far from the
Lake Bangweolo, a little north-west of Ilala. Am I wrong ?
"You have had great difficulties with carriers. Such are to be
expected in starting work so far inland. I can heartily sympathize
with you, and all the more because we are very much in the same
position. We are short of supplies, and yet some precious boxes
have been waiting at Shesheke and Mangwato these last two years
for want of means of transport. We can travel with the waggons
only once a year — in winter, when the country is dry ; but even then
we have to cross for three days, or rather three nights, a region
infested with the tsetse fly. Our losses in cattle have been so very
great that it makes our annual communications next to impossible.
My thoughts turn more and more towards Bihe" and Benguella. I
wish I saw my way clear to undertake that journey next year, but it is
not possible yet to say.
" Liwanika has gone with a motley multitude, called soldiers, to
make a raid in Mashukulumbe|land. It was a great grief to us. I
think he would have yielded to better advice, but he was pushed
to it by a large majority led by his own Likomboa. He has taken
with him Libica and all the boys of the school. We try to begin
anew, and, if possible, on a better foundation, but it is most difficult,
as the school is considered Libica's own, and all the children who
may attend it his slaves.
"The king sent messengers with very sad news from Shesheke.
Morantsiane, with Latira (the would-be king created by Mataka), who
have been wandering and fleeing from place to place for these two
years, fell unexpectedly upon the village of Shesheke, and killed
Tahalima and Ratau. We do not know how many more were
killed ; but this is sad enough. The nation, and Shesheke especially,
could ill spare such men as these two, Barotse and murderers though
they were. The king has turned aside to pursue the rebels ; but they
are reported to have crossed the river. Will the king, with these
difficulties, and the rumours afloat of another revolution, still persist
in his iniquitous errand ? I do not know. For Liwanika personally
I have a very great affection ; but as a ruler he is sadly wanting in
decision, wisdom, and firmness.
"We are settled, as you are already aware, I think, on a sandy
hill near the Sefula river, about seventeen miles from Lealui. The
distance is great, and I deplore it ; but then this place was the only
s 2

260 Lake Bangweolo
one at the time where we could settle. We are nearer Nalolo, and
perhaps we are also a little more independent. The people begin to
know the Lord's-day, and we have generally from ioo to 150 persons
attending the preaching of the gospel. We have put up some tem
porary buildings, made of poles and reeds, wattle and daub. We
have a cottage of two rooms, a workshop, and we are about to begin
the school-house.
" On the whole our health has been better than we expected ; mine
always good. However, in that respect too we have had trials. Of
the three brethren who came last August to help us, a young doctor
has gone back to Shesheke, probably as a first step homewards. A
sunstroke had serious consequences with him. Another young
brother is engaged in agriculture, and struggling manfully with
repeated attacks of fever. The third is with his wife at Shesheke
pro tern., and may occupy Mambova near Kazungula. Mr. M 
has left the mission to return to England. You will be sorry to hear
that poor Mr. Blockley died in August last.
" I hope, my dear brother, you will drop us some lines, and tell us
of your work, the people, and your prospects. I need not repeat how
deeply we are interested in your labours. I pray for you, and as a
little community we always make mention of you at our Saturday
evening prayer-meeting. There is a bond between us, strong and
sacred. The Lord bless you and your brethren ; the Lord give you
peace and ever-increased joy in His service. Mrs. Coillard is one
with me in prayerful affection. " Yours in the Lord, " F. Coillard."

Hafte aSangteolo anU g>unoun«tng CCountrg.
The only Europeans who have visited Garenganze are a German traveller,.
Herr Reichard, and a Portuguese, Senhor Ivens. Their visits were very brief,
and took place not long before Mr. Arnot's arrival there. The Portuguese
traveller came from the south, and the German from the east, but the latter
did not reach the capital, only meeting Msidi in the north of his kingdom. As
few persons possess any knowledge of the surrounding country we seek to
furnish some information regarding Lake Bangweolo and its neighbourhood
from the accounts of Livingstone and a French traveller named Giraud.
We do so in the hope that interest will be drawn out on behalf of the tribes
around Lake Bangweolo, and that they may be reached with the gospel from
Garenganze. Those who are familiar with Livingstone's travels and sorrow
ful death will bear in mind that many younger ones know little about him.
M. Giraud's travels are still less known. The summaries which follow are
taken from a small monthly periodical entitled Echoes of Service.

And Surrounding Country. 261
dr. Livingstone's account.
Of Livingstone's very arduous and prolonged explorations in Africa
from 1849 t0 l873, but a small part, contained in his Last Journals
(2 vols.), will come under our notice. In April, 1866, he set out on
his final journeys into the interior from Mikindany Bay on the east
coast, and following the River Rovuma reached Lake Nyassa.
Turning round the south end of that lake he proceeded northward,
and crossed the Chambeze River, but without seeing Lake Bangweolo,
and passed on to Lake Tanganyika. Thence he went westward to
Lake Moero, and in 1868 discovered Lake Bangweolo, but very soon
returned northwards, and during the years he was not heard of, when
many gave him up as dead, he was busily occupied in exploring on
either side of Tanganyika, till Stanley found him at Ujiji in 1871.
After a few months Stanley returned to England, and Livingstone
resumed his search into the heart of Africa. Four years later he
reached Bangweolo a second time, but in great weakness, and passing
round the east border of the lake ended his life's labours for Africa at
Chitambo's on the south, May 4th, 1873.
From his Journals we purpose gathering details as to (1) the
journey across the Chambeze ; (2) his first visit to Bangweolo ; (3)
his last journey round part of the lake.
The small map, given on page 269, copied from M. Giraud's, does
not show Livingstone's route, but it can be followed without difficulty.
In the district represented by the map, the relative position of four
of the lakes of Central Africa is shown, and from the height of these
lakes we can form some idea of the region. In round numbers,
Nyassa is 1600 feet above the sea ; Tanganyika, 2600 feet ; Bang
weolo, 3600 feet ; Moero, 3000 feet. The two lakes on the east,
Nyassa and Tanganyika, are very long and narrow and very deep,
with high mountains around ; they are connected by a high range,
5000 feet above sea-level, and some of the adjoining mountains are
8000 feet high. From this connecting range spring the streams that
form the Chambeze river (which must not be confounded with the
Zambesi). The Chambeze flows slowly into Lake Bangweolo, and
leaves it as the Luapula river. Similarly this flows into Lake Moero,
and leaves it as the Lualaba, which further on is calle'd the Congo.
Though on a very high tract of land, Lake Bangweolo is shallow,
with flat country around, and in the wet season it greatly extends its
limits, perhaps thirty miles or more, to the south and east. West of
the Luapula river, and separated by a range of mountains, is Garen
ganze, and Msidi's town is on a branch of the Lufira, which is one of
the many sources of the Congo, and joins the Lualaba above Lake
Moero.

262 Lake Bangweolo.
As we have mentioned, Livingstone came up northward from the
end of Nyassa towards the close of 1866, and his route lay from figure
32 (east longitude), at the foot of the map, to Mkewe. The people
in this part were called Babisa (people of Bisa), an inferior-looking
race, scattered and hunted by the Mazitu, their more warlike neigh
bours, who live on the high plateau west of Nyassa. Livingstone and
his little company had a weary journey, for the poor Babisa were,
like Israel in the time of Gideon, hiding away, with scarcely any food
for themselves, and nothing to spare for the travellers, who had often
to pass on wet and hungry. The Babisa seek to make up by craft
and falsehood for their lack of valour. Occasionally they kill an
elephant when it gets into boggy ground, but keep its flesh so long
that Livingstone found great difficulty at times in partaking of it. In
parts of the country the peculiar African bogs which Livingstone
calls sponges are frequent ; but at one spot he thus writes : " We are
uncertain when we shall come to a village, as the Babisa will not tell
us where they are situated. In the evening we encamped beside a
little rill, and made our shelters, but we had so little to eat that I
dreamed the night long of dinners. ... I shall make this beautiful
land known, which is an essential part of the process by which it will
become the ' pleasant haunts of men.' It is impossible to describe
its rich luxuriance, but most of it is running to waste through the
slave trade and internal wars."
At length, January 24th, 1867, he reached the spot marked Mkewe
on Giraud's map ; but it appears then to have been called Moaba.
An African town is almost always named after the ruling chief, and
geography is rendered still more difficult by the fact that at his death
his successor moves the town at least some distance. But we gather
from the narratives of Livingstone and Giraud that both crossed the
Chambeze about the same point. Livingstone found the river forty
yards wide, but overflowing its banks for two miles, and several
streams which ran into it made it appear still wider. After a few
days he reached a town with a triple stockade around it, called Chita
pangwa, but by Giraud Ketimkuru, and as the latter chief died in 1883,
it doubtless goes now by another name. It is, however, the position
of one of the great chiefs of the Bemba country, and his rule extends
to Bangweolo over both sides of the Chambeze, the Bisa people on
the south being tributaries to the Babemba.
This nation being a conquering people (like the Garenganze),
Livingstone found food abundant among them, and tirade was carried
on from the east coast by Arabs, who said it only took them two
months to reach the coast near Zanzibar. Livingstone sent thence
some letters, promising an Arab about ,£1 for taking them, and they
reached England. The situation of this town is 4700 feet above the
sea — an important point as to temperature and health. Livingstone
tried to explain to Chitapangwa something of the Book of books, and

Dr. Livingstone's Account. 263
the chief .made intelligent remarks. After three weeks' stay, and a
difficulty with him about a blanket which could not be spared, Living
stone moved on towards Lake Tanganyika.
(2) As it is not our purpose to follow out Livingstone's travels,
except in the vicinity of Bangweolo, we pass on till, in November of
the same year, 1867, we find him at Kasembe, near Lake Moero.
This is one of the few places with a constant name, which means
" General," and the chiefs claiming that title used to possess wide
authority. Owing, however, to the excessive carrying out of what is
rather a common and very cruel custom — cutting off the ears and
hands of high and low among his followers — this Kasembe was
forsaken by many of his people, and was thus poor, and his power
diminished. Here Livingstone met a native named Pe"re"mb£, whose
age he calculated to be 102, from the account he could give of the
Portuguese traveller Pereira, who visited Kasembe in 1796. Pe're'mbe
gave a list of ten successive Kasembes. Several times Livingstone
mentions the country, which is familiar to us as Msidi's, though the
spelling is a little different. "The Garaganze people at Katanga
killed a near relative of Kasembe's;" "A Banyamwezi or Garaganze
man is settled here on the strong rivulet called Mato."
After having been foiled in a journey in another direction and
obliged to return to Kasembe, Livingstone determined to proceed to
Bangweolo, and left for this purpose in June, 1868. He often refers to
the slave trade, and mentions his surprise at meeting six slaves
singing, as if they did not feel the weight and degradation of the
heavy forked slave-sticks in which their necks were enclosed ; and, on
enquiry, their words told of some idea of a future state and of a
retribution — " Oh, you sent me off to Manga (sea coast), but the yoke
is off when I die, and back I shall come to haunt and kill you ! "
On the way to Bangweolo a good deal of warfare was going on, but
Livingstone safely reached the north-west shore on the 18th July,
1868 ; and here he again speaks of showing his Bible and telling the
people a little of its contents. He found a good many Babisa there,
and one of them was walking on stilts. The headman, Masantu,
said he had " never prayed to the Great Father of all ; " that the
footsteps of " Mungu " or " Molungu " (God) could be seen on
Lifung£ Island (on the lake) ; that a large footstep, about 15 inches
long, was also to be seen on the rock at the Chambeze.
The country around the lake is all flat, as are the islands, which are
four in number. The people are called Mboghwa ; they had many
canoes, and were expert fishermen. The islands had many inhabitants,
and children were numerous. On account of the strong south-east
winds he could not visit the islands till the 25th July, when he went in
a canoe 45 feet long, 4 feet deep, and 4 feet broad, propelled by five
men. Though paid for four days, the canoe men would only stay two,
and took him to two islands (Lifting^ and Mpabala), whence he could

264 Lake Bangweolo.
see two others (Kisi and Chiribe) ; and from the men's descriptions of
the time occupied in crossing the lake, he considered it to be at least
150 miles long by 80 broad. South of the lake, at some distance, is a
range of mountains, the Lokinga, which are said to run to the west
below Garenganze, and from which the river Lufira rises. The
islanders were peaceable, and were busy weaving nets, spinning
cotton, etc. Reports of the extreme unhealthiness of the lake district
Livingstone found to be untrue.
On the 30th July, 1868, that is, a fortnight after his arrival, he left
the lake, intending to go over to the Luapula and Lufira rivers (that
is, to the Garenganze district), but the disturbed state of the natives
on the Garenganze side of the Luapula made him give up the thought,
and he again went north, only, however, to find himself amidst much
fighting between the Garaganze people and Kasembe's Balunda,
Arabs and Mazitus.
Fresh discoveries on and around Tanganyika occupied him between
1868 and 1873, but it only remains for us to take up the thread of his
narrative as he once more comes back from Tanganyika, on his last
journey round the east of Lake Bangweolo.
With fresh supplies and men obtained from Stanley, he turned
southward from Tanganyika, his purpose being to go round the
east and south of Bangweolo (in 1868 he had only seen its north-west
shore and visited some of its islands), then on to the sources of
the Lufira, and up through Katanga (or Garenganze) to the caves
west of Lake Moero, of which the natives gave marvellous reports.*
The journey from Tanganyika was on new ground, and his course
was not at all direct. The usual difficulties which make African
travel so trying were experienced, arising from lack of guides, or,
worse still, false ones, the distrust of chiefs and people, endless
delays, and scarcity of provisions. This time he did not go near
Kasembe's, but heard that he had been attacked by Arabs, who
killed him and put his head on a pole, doing to him as he had done
to many others.
Livingstone's sorest experiences, however, arose from the fact
that his old complaint, chronic dysentery, returned, and that the
flooded country he had to pass through not only made this worse,
but greatly impeded his progress.
From May to October is the dry season in these parts, during
which travelling is comparatively easy, if the grass be not too high ;
during the other six months rain is very constant. In the hilly
districts, where the rain runs off, progress is not difficult, as usually
during some hours of each day the rain does not fall ; but in the
flat country the land first gets soaked, and then heavily flooded.
Around Bangweolo, especially on the east, numberless swollen
streams, which could be easily stepped over in the dry season,
* The Sombwe caVes visited by Mr. Arnot.

Dr. Livingstone's Account. 265
have to be waded through, perhaps neck deep, and not a few
rivers have to be crossed in canoes. Add to this the absence of high
ground for cooking and camping on, the fear on the part of the
natives, their hiding of canoes, their unwillingness to barter poor
provisions for cloth or beads, and we may conceive what Livingstone
and his party had to endure.
Nowadays a traveller in distress might strike for some friendly
mission station, but then Livingstone was the solitary European in
Central Africa, and his health and strength were gradually failing,
so that he had first to ride on a donkey, then to be carried by his
men, and at last was borne in a kind of litter ; and the entries
in his journal became fewer and fewer. We need not attempt to
give many details, as the foregoing general remarks may suffice to
convey some idea of how matters stood with him.
Livingstone doubtless hoped to reach Bangweolo at a better season,
but in journeying over any ground in Africa for the first time, it
is almost impossible to allow duly for obstacles and delays. As 1873
was entered on, he began descending towards the lake, and the rains
had already fallen heavily for some weeks. "Jan. 6th," he writes,
" Cold, cloudy, and drizzling. . . . The sponges are now full and
overflowing; crops are growing freely." "Jan. 7th. — A cold rainy
day keeps us in a poor village very unwillingly." " Jan. 8th. — Detained
by heavy, continuous rains ; got off in the afternoon in a drizzle,
crossed a rill six feet wide, but now very deep, with large running
sponges on each side." Next day he crossed two rivulets, two rills,
four wide sponges, besides many hundred yards of flooded ground.
"Jan. nth. — Cold and rainy weather ; never saw the like."
Thus the journal goes on. On March 26th the Chambeze was
crossed ; about 400 yards wide and 1 8 feet deep. , This would be
at a point near Lake Bangweolo, but it was impossible to say
where the lake ended and the flooded plains, extending for thirty
or forty miles, began. On the north side of the river, Matipa was the
ruling chief; on the south side, his brother Kabinga, who was in
great grief because his son had been killed by an elephant.
Those who have read Mr. Arnot's First Year among the Barotse
will understand the mode of life of the natives here. In the wet
season they remove with their cattle to some islets, and move about
in their small canoes over the flooded ground ; in the dry season
the waters subside, and the plains become covered with the richest
pastures, on which the cattle fatten.
Livingstone's story would have been a very different one had he but
arrived at Lake Bangweolo six months earlier. The canoes of the
natives were very small ones, used for punting. If large ones had
been available, such as the one in which, in 1868, Livingstone was
taken to some of the islands, he and his men might have crossed the
lake. Rushes abound, rising one to two feet above the water, and
s 3

266 • Lake Bangweolo.
the lotus and papyrus are common. The latter grows about eight feet
high, and has a crown about three feet across. In some parts they
extend for miles on the borders of the lake. Several considerable
rivers were crossed besides the Chambeze, and the number of fish
caught by the natives in weirs, baskets, or nets was prodigious.
For some days in April Livingstone could only enter the date in
his journal, and his last entry, evidently made with great effort,
was "April 27th. — Knocked up quite, and remain . . . recover . . . sent
to buy milch goats. We are on the banks of the Moliamo," He
could not write what he wished to do. At length Chitambo's village
was reached on the south of the lake, but Livingstone was in a
most feeble state. Many of the natives were away looking after
their crops, and their empty huts afforded shelter for the party.
At length the end came. With great difficulty Livingstone selected
some medicine from his chest, took it, and said to his man Susi, about
midnight, "All right ; you can go out now." At four o'clock, on
going into the hut on the morning of May 4th, 1873, his men found
him kneeling by the side of his rude bed, but lifeless. His toilsome
labours for so many years on Africa's behalf were ended, and alone
with God he committed his spirit to Him.
With one entry from his journal, made about seven months before,
we close our account — " The spirit of missions is the spirit of our
Master; the very genius of His religion. . . . It requires perpetual
propagation to attest its genuineness."
The story of the bold and faithful determination of his men to
preserve their master's body,* and to bear it to the sea coast is well
known. Taking up their burden, but disguising what it was, lest
alarm should be created in the superstitious minds of the natives, the
men journeyed round the west shore, crossed the great river Luapula,
and turning eastward they at length hit on the route by which they
had come from Tanganyika, and made their way to Ujiji, and in
course of time the body, thus conveyed from the centre of Africa,
reached Zanzibar, was thence sent by steamer to England, and found
a resting-place in Westminster Abbey.
One other remark of Livingstone's we may add, with reference to
the idea some entertain that the best way of getting power over the
natives is by jugglery or sleight-of-hand — '' Goodness or unselfishness
impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or power. . . .
The prayer to Jesus for a new heart and right spirit at once commends
itself as appropriate."
* The heart and other parts were buried by a large mvula tree, on which his
name and the date of death were cut. While at Garenganze, Mr. Arnot heard
from a native that Chitambo was dissatisfied, because he had never received
any reward for permitting the body to be taken away. The Royal Geographical
Society, learning this, has sent Mr. Arnot ,£50, with a request that he will, if
possible, purchase and convey to Chitambo, if yet living, some suitable present.

M. Giraud 's Description. 267
In Africa Livingstone has left a good name. His restraint over
himself and his men in not allowing the natives to be injured was
very marked. Around Bangweolo firearms were then scarcely known,
and were greatly feared ; and once, when much tried by Matipa,
Livingstone fired a pistol through the roof of the hut, and it had the
desired effect of alarming the chief and expediting the progress of
the party. We refer to this because his men, when carrying the
body of their master along the north shore of Bangweolo, could not
patiently bear and wait as he would have done. By the people there,
the Baoussi, the resting of a gun against a hut by one of the men was
made into an offence ; strife arose, and Livingstone's men stormed
the place, and then some neighbouring villages, taking several lives,
and getting an easy victory by means of their firearms. This act is
to be regretted, but probably the natives would understand the
difference between Livingstone and his men.
Of the different races referred to by Livingstone we cannot give
particulars. They varied much in outward appearance, some of the
people between Tanganyika and Moero being of a very fine type, like
those figured on the ancient Egyptian obelisks ; others were like the
ordinary negro, with whose appearance we are familiar ; and there
were some still lower in the human scale. It is well known that
the migrations of natives in Africa from one part to another have
been considerable, and this partly accounts for the great admixture of
languages. But what chiefly concerns us is that all of them are
equally destitute of the knowledge of the true God, which through
grace is committed to us. It is nearly fifteen years since Livingstone
died, and yet how very few of the people in the region we have been
considering have been reached ! We may say, only those bordering
on Lakes Nyassa and Tanganyika, and in Garenganze, have been
touched. Shall we who so fully know the grace of our Lord Jesus
Christ leave these poor people still to go on, year after year, with
their miserable notion that a footprint somewhere, fifteen inches long,
' is all that is known of God's ways upon earth ? Let us thank God for
all the efforts put forth on the Congo, Lake Nyanza, and other parts
of Africa ; but let us not forget the Babisa, the Babemba, the Balunda,
the Baoussi, and many other needy nations, of whom we are thus put '
in mind, and who need to be told of God's salvation.
m. giraud's description.
M. Giraud, a French naval officer, twenty-three years of age, formed
the plan of taking a boat in sections to Central Africa, with the
intention of traversing its great lakes. Had he been aware of the
efforts that the African Lakes' Company had previously made he
might have saved himself much toil by following the route they
adopted; viz., ascending the Zambesi and Shire" rivers to Lake

268 Lake Bangweolo.
Nyassa. His plan was to start from the African coast near Zanzibar,
and proceed overland to the head of Nyassa. Towards the end of
1882 he set out with a party of one hundred and twenty-one men,
negroes and a few Arabs, with an abundance of firearms and ammu
nition. His boat was made of soft steel, in five water-tight compart
ments, and in shape like a whale-boat. It was nearly twenty-five
feet long, and five feet broad, and took twenty bearers to carry it.
As may be supposed, the difficulties he met with were often very
formidable, his boat having to be taken at times over high mountains.
In four months the head of Lake Nyassa was reached, but M. Giraud
sought to press on to Lake Bangweolo. He does not seem to have
entertained the idea of reaching it by the Chambeze river,* but
sought to carry his boat at some distance from that river, though in
a course parallel with it. Proceeding first on the south side of the
Chambeze, he reached the town of MkW (see map opposite), a
chief who was then about forty years old. Stockades and ditches
around the town, one after another, told of the warlike character of
this chief, and M. Giraud noticed among his people some men whose
noses or ears had been cut off. Mkewe"' s six drummers had a thumb
on each hand, but no fingers, and his three singing-men had been
deprived of their eyes.
A European travelling with so large a party, and so well stocked
with arms and goods, was expected to pay heavy tribute, and this
seems to have been a constant cause of difficulty. The accounts.
given him of two chiefs further down, on the south side of the river,
Marukutu and Moincoirernfumu, were so bad that he determined to
cross the Chambeze, and to proceed on the north side. He describes
at great length the difficulties of passing this flooded river, about
three days being chiefly occupied in wading through the marshes
extending for miles on either side. The river itself was soon crossed,
apparently at about the same point that Livingstone crossed it in 1867,
when coming up from the south of Nyassa.
On the north side another chief, Ketimkuru, lived in a stockaded
town, but was not so extortionate as Mkewe". Human heads on the
tops of the stockades, and a pair of ears and eyes fresh with blood,
told, however, that the same cruelties were carried out north of the
river as south of it. Indeed, M. Giraud says that everywhere the
Bemba people practise these barbarous customs.
Ketimkuru remembered Livingstone, and , contrasted his age with
Giraud's youth. He called Livingstone the " Ihgreso " (Englishman),
and considered that M. Giraud must have come from England.
Addressing him as "Msungu" (god), by which title this French
* Mr. J. W. Moir quite thought to have been able to communicate with
Mr. Arnot from Lake Nyassa by descending this river, and had a boat in
readiness for the purpose ; but the Arab wars hindered this project as well as
most of the useful operations of the African Lakes' Company.

M. Giraud 's Description.

269

v ft "*
¦* 4 ^ ii ill
* • "" \ v-rl BW

5S
liillif1 'ivj

*7 71

^ At
V^ ; V
fi- *
to Do ,2 / 3

I T3
V GO
\ %

e

* ^ ^ J \
S f 1 <»
•» V Jo.

\
1 \

0
e
CB
**» 3
jS OB

ill \§W » A,
_j 0 -

w .-si im

-i 1^
<S ,-0'

' Al

¦ *

§

* V J.. V|M ,

Z. o

270 Lake Bangweolo.
traveller generally passed, Ketimkuru said that Moamba was then
chief— i.e. about fifteen years previously — and that Livingstone spoke
much of God, whom they (the black people) did not know. Ketimkuru
assured Giraud that Kasembe was a vassal of his, so he determined
to send his party overland to that chief by the north of Bangweolo,
while he with eight men would cross the lake in his boat, and follow
the Luapula river down to Lake Moero, where Kasembe resided.
Leaving Ketimkuru on the 16th June, 1883, he found himself
on the open waters of Lake Bangweolo on the 8th July. •
We cannot attempt to give in full his description of his voyage
across the lake. He gives a very different outline of the lake itself
from that by Livingstone, who supposed the shape of it to be something
like a flattened orange. As will be seen from the map, Giraud makes
it very irregular. Neither of these travellers went round the lake, and
as it is far wider than the English Channel, its actual form and extent
have yet to be discovered. The absence of high land, and the miles
of reeds (eight or nine feet high) on the east and south sides, increased
M. Giraud's difficulty in delineating its shores. He and Livingstone
also differ much as to the position and extent of the islands, but
we can understand this when we remember that land submerged
in the wet season would appear high and dry when the waters had
returned to their natural limit. The greatest discrepancy, however,
between the two accounts is as regards the course of the great
river Luapula, to the west of which is the Garenganze or Katanga
country. Livingstone supposed that this river, which carries off
the waters of Bangweolo to Lake Moero, commenced at the north
west point of Bangweolo and flowed northwards ; and probably
this led Giraud to anticipate that a short journey would take him
to Kasembe's. He found, however, that the river started from the
south-west of the lake and then ran south a long distance before it
turned northward.
As to the inhabitants, M. Giraud agrees with Livingstone that the
number is very great — more in proportion than he had seen elsewhere.
Livingstone did not land on the largest island, which he calls Chiribi,
and Giraud, Kirui. Its shore, Giraud says, rises about 16 feet above
the lake, and it is green and well-wooded. About 400 men came
down towards his boat, and the chief said that Livingstone, whom he
called Giraud's brother, had fought with Matipa. Giraud replied that
Matipa behaved badly towards his brother, and refused him canoes ;
and that Livingstone did fire a gun, but not with the intention of
injuring anyone. Giraud's knowledge of these particulars greatly
surprised the chief. The natives seemed friendly, although rather
fearful, and they brought provisions. M. Giraud stayed until the next
day. Then the numbers increased ; and as he supposed they were
meditating an attack in order to plunder him, he embarked with his
men before daylight, and the natives vainly tried to pursue them.

M. Giraud's Description. 271
When Livingstone, in his last days, passed round the east of
Bangweolo, the chief Matipa lived upon an island, but Giraud calls it
a peninsula — a difference easily explained by the different depths of
water at different seasons. Matipa, however, had died before this.
At this period the south-east breeze was constant, like the trade winds,
and Giraud's boat rapidly proceeded westward under the shelter of
the land on the south coast, which he describes ¦ as covered with
verdure. But he could not discern the mountains of Bisa, which
Livingstone places to the south of the lake.* The white sail of the
boat attracted attention everywhere, and called forth yellings from the
natives on the south coast ; but Giraud could not affirm that they
were hostile. Some villages were enclosed by stockades, which ran
down into the lake, and the population was very dense. The natives
informed him that the Luapula ran to the south ofthe lake, but would
give him no information about the mouth of the Chambeze. On his
map he puts the two rivers — Chambeze and Luapula — as almost
meeting in the lake, instead of being at opposite sides, as represented
by Livingstone ; but that one river should run into the lake and another
. out of it almost at the same spot seems geographically very improbable.
Continuing to sail towards the south-west, Giraud reached a point
of land called Kawende", to the east of which water and reeds
abounded ; but there was an open stretch of water about one hundred
yards in width, and as it had an unmistakable current, Giraud was
assured that he had found the mouth of the Luapula. Returning
towards the centre of the lake, he reached the end of a long tongue of
land, which he called Bawara, and which in position might corres
pond with a small island called Mpbala, on which Livingstone slept in
his first visit to the lake fifteen years previously. Here again it is very
difficult to reconcile the statements of the two travellers, for both
visited this part in the month of July. We can only conjecture that
in different years the height of the water varies much at the same
season, and the small island might thus become a tongue of land
when the rainfall was less than usual.
Giraud next sailed to the island of Kisi, where Livingstone's men
were afraid to go, saying they had stolen their canoe from that island.
Giraud found many more people there than at Bawara ; they were
clothed with skins, and carried bows and elephant spears. The
women dyed their hair red, and dressed it very elaborately by means
of combs and copper pins. The men shaved the head, leaving only
two or three tufts of hair. From a piece of rising ground Giraud's
guide showed him the whole island of Kisi, Bawara, and Kirui ; to the
west the country of the Baoussi ; to the north the states of Miombo,
* As Livingstone in his first journey northward passed these mountains to
the east of Bangweolo, they doubtless run to the south of the lake, though
they were too far off to be seen by Giraud. As to climate, they might form a
suitable place from which to reach the people of the lake.

272 Lake Bangweolo. •
and beyond these the country of the Bakissinga. He also described
the Luapula as running south and then turning north, but told Giraud
that if he went by that river he would soon meet his death in the
cataracts ; or if he went by land, through the country of the Baoussi,
east of the Luapula, he would be massacred. This did not give him
much encouragement as to reaching Kasembe and meeting his men
again. Thinking that the natives of Kisi were meditating mischief, he
embarked in his boat, saying he would proceed to another part of the
island to see the chief, and left one of his men as a hostage. This,
however, was only a device, and the man soon escaped and joined
the boat.
Encamping for the night on the point of Bawara, he again sailed
back to Kawende". The natives advised him not to follow the Luapula,
and offered to guide him through the surrounding marshes. The
villages he met with were very small ; the first one, called Kapata,
consisted of ten huts and thirty people. The next, Kisamba, still
smaller, stood on a dry rock. Beyond these he could not get a guide ;
but set out for Singa, a place notable for having a very large tree, the
only one in the district. He only reached this place after seven days
struggling through reeds and rushes. Game and fish, however, were
most abundant, and he and his men were well supplied with food.
This village also was very small ; the natives had many dogs, which
they employed in hunting. Still keeping near the Luapula, he
reached Rosako. The chief there told him that in three days he would
arrive at the cataracts of Mombottouta, where his boat would be
smashed. He added that the chiefs of Ilala and Bisa, to the south,
were not evil men, but warned him against the Baoussi and the chief
Mirambo, also called M£r£-me're'. Rosako informed him that two
days' march to the south-east was Chitambo's ; and that after the
great man (Livingstone) died there, his body was borne this way, but
Rosako did not happen to be in the place at the time.
Giraud describes the Luapula as from 140 to 330 yards wide here,
with a swift and majestic current, winding between wooded hills. On
the banks were large trees, and occasionally grassy stretches with
herds of antelopes. On the 31st July he came upon an island in
the middle of the river covered with giant trees. Some fishermen
had encamped there, but fled on his appearing. One of them was
brought back, and, in return for a quantity of beads, informed
him that Mombottouta was but an hour distant, and that the Baoussi
were waiting for him there. Going on in his boat he began to enter
the rapids, and soon heard in the distance the dull roar of cataracts.
On the right bank were numbers of armed Baoussi, and he was
obliged to approach them to avoid death in the cataracts. They
charged him with killing the inhabitants of Kisi, and said that he was
going to their enemy Msidi, who dwelt on the other side of the
Luapula. One of the natives levelled a musket at him, but it was

M. Giraud's Description. 273
soon evident that the man had no powder. Giraud's men fired off
their guns, and showed that theirs were more effectual. One of
the natives then said that the chief Mirambo demanded his boat
(which they supposed could be made into bullets), his guns, and
baggage, and that if he gave all up they would exchange blood
with him, and take him safely to the chief. Compelled by hunger,
Giraud yielded to these demands, but said he would not give up
his guns. His baggage was then taken possession of and carried
to the village of the minor chief who had spoken to him, named
Kalambo ; and next day the boat was carried there bodily by
200 men ; but he threw away the screws which held the sections
together, and thus prevented the natives from ever making use of it.
He was kept in the village ten days, Kalambo seekmg to strip him of
as much as possible before letting him go to Mirambo. At length, on
the nth of August, 1883, tired of living upon dried meat only,
he and his eight men escaped from the boma (stockade), and Kalambo
soon followed with his small army, carrying their old muskets (with
no powder) and other weapons ; but as these warriors disdained to
carry anything else, the poor women, who were obliged to accompany
them, were heavily laden. The journey northward, on the east of the
Luapula, was a most wearisome one, and the party were dependent
for food upon the animals Giraud shot, and upon which the natives
fell like hyenas, making it difficult for him to get any portion for
himself or his men. His trials were increased by his shoes going
to pieces, and he suffered greatly from sore and bleeding feet.
After fifteen days, under Kalambo's escort, Giraud reached Mirambo's,
August 19th, and the frequent firing of guns on their arrival showed
how well armed his people were. Mirambo was then about twenty-
seven years old, and proudly received him. Giraud was struck with
his unusual intelligence and ambition, and considered that one day
he would become a great monarch in Africa if he did not meet with
an untimely end. Mirambo explained to him that he used to live by
the Luapula, but that ravages of small-pox compelled him to cross
the desert country to the part where he now is. Mirambo proposed
that Giraud should send one of his men to Kasembe's to guide the
caravan to his own town, and Giraud was obliged to consent. After
a while the natives had scarcely any food, and with difficulty sustained
themselves on anything they could find. The women gathered a kind
of parsley, the men sought for roots and small crabs from the rivers,
and the children caught grasshoppers. Now and again Giraud was
obliged to resort to hunting, although the pain of walking with his
sore feet was excruciating ; but he thus succeeded in getting some
food for his party, the natives, however, claiming a large share, and
giving him very little meal in return.
On the 26th September Giraud's caravan arrived, bringing a supply
of goods. He tried to part friends with Mirambo, and gave him a

274 Lake Bangweolo.
large present, but failed to satisfy him. He therefore made his escape
at midnight on the 2nd October, and reached Kasembe's on the 15th
without much difficulty.
On their journey northward they came out, on the sixth day, upon
the Luapula, which was more than six hundred yards wide, with a
current that would make navigation difficult, and there were several
islands at that part. As they went along, the river scenery was very
beautiful. The first Lunda village, called Mlundu, was reached after
a week. Here again the Luapula was a succession of rapids, and
there was one considerable fall, but from this point to Lake Moero it
was navigable. Giraud thought to have descended the river in canoes,
but the Mlundu people were expecting an attack from Msidi's warriors
across the river, and could not spare their canoes. The Luapula
becomes very wide as it approaches Lake Moero, and reeds abound
as in Lake Bangweolo. The tsetsd flies began to appear here. At
night hyenas were very numerous and ferocious.
Giraud and his party received a great welcome from the men of his
caravan on reaching Kasembe's, and the chief gave him a formal
reception in the evening. After a while he demanded the French
traveller's arms and ammunition, but once more he made an escape
with his caravan, and had to find his way without guides to Lake
Tanganyika. There he was received by missionaries, and, returning
by Lake Nyassa, left Africa at Ouilimane, November 14th, 1884.
His account enables us to form a fair idea of the condition of
the natives on the islands of Lake Bangweolo and around it. The
relative position of the tribes can also be easily comprehended.
The Bisa people are on the south of the lake and occupy the islands ;
on the east are the Bemba ; on the west (opposite the Garenganze,
and separated by the Luapula) are the Baoussi ; north of them the
Kissinga, and above them Kasembe's Lunda people.
The scourge of war seems constantly going on, and the chiefs
desire to encourage trade, chiefly that they may get guns and powder.
The men taken captive are killed, and the women are made slaves,
though called wives. Through the constant fear of war the fields are
not cultivated, and famine is one of the great difficulties of travellers.
Altogether, there seems to be a need of the gospel of peace greater
perhaps than elsewhere in the world, and we hope that some hearts
will be stirred to go amongst these people, after the example of
our dear brethren among the Garenganze. We ought also to'
remember the many nations lying between Bih£ and Garenganze,
mentioned by our brethren as they passed by them, who have as
yet not a single voice to tell them of God's love. Now is a golden
opportunity. God has opened a door, and the time is short. It
does not seem too much to say that scores of true servants of the
Lord are needed in this part of Africa. May He send them forth !

INDEX.

In making up this brief Index, at. the last moment, we have not had Mr. Arnot's help, and
in the perplexities caused by African names we may not have always ¦ assigned to them
their right places.— Ed. 

Accident, Gun, 158
Adversity and Prosperity, 30
African opinion of White Men,
125
African History, chapter in, 89
African Languages, 119
African Plateau, 126
Africans, Typical, 144
Agriculture, 240
American Missionaries, no,
130, 136, 250, 252
Ants, Army, prove helpers,i6o
Arabs, 174, 187, 199, 203, 205,
243, 264
Bagster, Mr. W. W. (the late),
123.
Bailundu, 110-114, 130
Bangweolo, Lake, 260-274-
Baptisms, 201, 219
Barotse Valley, Description, 67
Beeswax Hunters, 146
Beliefs, Native, 73
Belmonte, Bihe, 109
Benguella, 124-127, 131-134
Benighted and Helpless, 60
Bihe, 109, 119, 129, 135-6, 250
Blockley, Mr.(the late), 48,260
Boers, Dutch, 10, 14
Border Craig, x
Bridge-building, 246
Buffalo Hunt, unsuccessful, 85
Burial Ceremonies, 116
Bushmen, 15, 33, 34.
Camps, Native, 39,144,148,149
Caravan Plundered, 248
Carriers, 35, 36, 41, 47, 108,
153, 158, 160, 161, 249
Catumbella, 123, 127
Caucon Hill, 40
Charms, 118, 207, 237
Chiefs (their names also indi
cate towns) — Boma, 153 ;
Chikoma, 109 ; Chikulo, 1 10 ;
Cliipenza, 182 ; Chipongi
(the ,late), 135 ; Chitambo,
266 ; Chivulu, 130 ; Ek
wikwi, 114; Herero, 102;
Kagoma, 179 ; Katema,
160; Kalolo, 181, 220:
Kabinga, 265; Kama, 16,
22 ; Kankanga, 102 ; Kan
gombe, 155, 248; Kapoko,
140 ; Kasembe, 232, 263,
274 ; Kasombo, 146 ; Li-
koko, 221 ; Liwanika, 65,
74, 91, 96,257, 259 ; Mahaha,
84; Makoako, 28; Maru-
kutu,268 ; Matipa (the late),
265, 270 ; Mirambo, 273 ;

Chiefs (continued}—
Mogumba.si; Moincoirem-
fumu, 268 ; Molenga (the
late), 169, 233,255 ; Miombo,
271; Moreme, 30; Mosiko,
152 ; Mosotan, 83 ; Msidi,
i2i, 173, 193, 199, 212, 227,
235, 244, 254, 274 ; Nalolo
(female), 65 ; Nana Kan
dundu (female), 163, 247 ;
Sama Kalenge, 151 ; Sek
home, 16 ; Sepupwa, 83 ;
Silika, 19 ; Sumbulu, 154 ;
Wankie, 18
Children, Rescued, 213
Chitompa, Wife of Msidi, 228
" Christian Relics," 119
Cinyama, 141, 185
Climate, Effect on Health, 93
Coillard, M., 71, 94, 96
„ Letters, 255-260
Coimbra, S., 122, 128
Conscience, Power of, 78
Copper- workers, 238
Cottage, Mr. Arnot's, 204
Covetousness, Deep-seated, 71
Crocodiles' Food, Shared, 64
Cruelties, Native, 23, 75, 77,
137, 214, 268
Delagoa Bay, Natives, 2
Deliverances from Peril, 6, 197
Desert Experiences, 32
Dick, a Barotse Lad, 188, 201,
215, 255
Dilolo, Lake, 158
Diviners, 106, 172
Domestic Matters, Mukurru,
Donkeys Lost, 43 [208
Drachensberg Range, 10
Drink Traffic Stopped, 22
Ekwikwi, King, 112, 114
Embassy from Msidi, 121
Encouragements, 79, 87, 88,
101, 104, 216
Esupwa Pass, 129
Executions, 220
Faulknor, Mr.W. L.,226, 252
Farewell to Liwanika, 96
Farewell to Msidi, 244
Fay, Mr. and Mrs., 127, 250
Fetishism, 106, 118, 237
Fever, Attacks of, 56, 186
Fire-hunts, 240
Fishermen in Garenganze, 239
Flattery, Native, 202
Flooded Plains, 67, 93, 98
Fools in all Lands, 208
Forced March, 48

Garenganze Kingdom, 231
Gezumba Pan, 48
Giraud's, M., Travels in Ban
gweolo District, 267-274
Gonye Falls, 64, 68
Good Reception at Shesheke,
„ 53
Great Bear" visible, 31
Greytown, 7
Gumbela, a Barotse, 79, 87, 95
Heat in Barotse Valley, 93
Hepburn, Mr., 17, 20
Hippopotami, 85, 197
Hogs, Wild, 167
Hostility of Bambunda Tribe,
102
Household, Mr. Arnot's, 183
Human Sacrifices, 75, 228, 239
Hunger, 26, 64, 166
Hunting under difficulties, 188
Huts, Native, 60
Iron-workers, 239
Ivory, Msidi 's Tribute, 234
Jesuits, 13, 51, 71, 79, 94, 257
Johnny, 183 ; Death of, 206
Kaffirs, Journey with, g
Kalahari Desert, 25, 26
Kahlangumbu, 161
Kama, a Christian Chief,i6, 22
Kambuti, 104
Kapapa, 220
Kasoma, 138, 183, 185
Kasoma's Wife, Death of, 168
Kasule's hand amputated, 224
Katanga, East Coast Name
for Garenganze, 231
Katonge, 161
Kaukashia Stolen at Bine1, 137
Kifumadshe Flat, 157
Kindness of Batoka, 51
Kisi Island, 264, 271
Klerksdorp, 13
Lakes, Height above Sea, 261
Landslip on the Zambesi, 86
Languages, African, 119
Latest Tidings, 254
Lealui, 65-79, 86-92
Leask, Mr. and Mrs., 13
Leave the last L.M. S. Station,
"Lequalo," 74 [24
Leshuma, 46, 49, 82, 256
Letlakani Water, 27
Letters, Budgets of, 81, 224
Lifunge" Island, 263
Lions, Adventures with, 63,
83, 209

276

Index.

Livingstone's Description of
Barotse Valley, 67
Livingstone's Visit to Lake
Bangweolo, 261
Livingstone's Death, 266
Losinge Mountain, 128
Lovale (the " Flats"), 155
Luapula, Villages near —
Kapata, Kisamba, Singa,
Rosako, 272
Luba Country, 233
Lunda Country, 159, 233
Makoako, 28
Mamwia, 79, 87
Maritzburg, 4-8
Marriage, 194
Mataya, Wife of Msidi, 225
Mbova, 52, 60
Mombouttota Cataracts, 272
Morico, 15
Mpbala Island, 263
Msidi, King, x., 121, 177, 193-
212, 227, 235, 244, 254, 274
Msidi's Wives, 234
Mukurru,i93 ; aTrade Centre,
235
Nalolo, on the Zambesi, 260
' ' Nambi," the Great Spirit, 74
Nana Kandundu, 163, 185,
247, 254
Natal, 3
Natural Affection, 105
Ngami, Lake, 30
Night Concerts, 153
Night with Wild Beasts, 222
Nyambe Falls, 63
Nyassa Route, 187
Nyengo Flat, 98
Ocean of Land, 139
Olohosi, " The Lions," 165
Olombingo Hill, *' The
Horns," 128
Omande-shell, 232
Orange Free State, 10
Ordeal, Boiling Pot, 66, 92, 95
Ox-back Riding, 97
Oxen Bewitched, 100
Panda-ma-tenka, 48, 54, 56-
59, 81, 82
Patience Needed, 21, 135, etc.
Peho, 151
Polygamy, 194
Portuguese Territory, 109
Potchefstroom, n
Poverty, Advantage of, 72
Prayer Answered, 84, 217
Prayer for Rain, 17
Rain, Blessings of, 191 ^
Ramosi, a native Christian, 28
Rapids, 63, 81, 274
Ratau and the Dog, 84 ; his
death, 259
Refuge, a City of, 78

Readiness of Natives to hear,
100, 104
Requirements ofthe Work, 120
Rivers— Biseque, 104 ; Bot
letle, 27, 29 ; Chambeze,
262, 268, 271 ; Chobe, 39,
42-44, 104 ; Chonga, 155 ;
Cisambe, 142 ; Congo, x ;
Elume, 151 ; Kaluja, 146 ;
Kambimbia, 105 ; Kan
sambe, 105 ; Kassai, 151 ;
Keve, 129 ; Kineto, 138 ;
Kuango, 105 ; Kuchi, 129 ;
Kuito, 105 ; Kumbule, 99 ;
Kutato, no, 129; Kutau,
104 ; Kuti, 102 ; Kutia,
151 ; Kuvali, 128 ,' Kuvan
gui, 102 ; Letot, 108 ; Lim
popo, 15 ; Lokoshe, 166 ;
Luache, 246; Lualaba, 168,
261 ; Luapula, 261 ; Luburi,
166; Luena, 152, 154; Lu
fira, 176, 188 ; Lufupa, 166 ;
Lukuruwe, 170, 195 ; Lu-
mese,i57 ; Lungeungo, 105 ;
Lutembwa, 159 ; Luvua,
161 ; Mababi, 21, 34 ; Mo-
leamo, 266 ; Monyangwe,
151 ; Morico, 15 ; Ninda,
99 ; Nyengo, 98 ; Nyonga,
105 ; Quando, 99, 104 ;
Quanza, 109, 143 ; Ro-
vangwe, 104 ; Sambuti, 40 ;
Sefula, 258 ; Shemoi, 152 ;
Shikoloi, 99 ; Shulongo, 99 ;
Ungwesi, 52 ; Unkeya, 176,
193 ; Zambesi, x., 50, etc.
Routine of Camp Life, Daily,
148
Rum, the Demand for, 145
Sacindongo, 165
Salt Trade, 239
Sanders, Mr. and Mrs., m-
114, 117, 130, 250, 252
Sanga Country, 231
School-keeping, 70, 86
Scott, Mr. P., 251, 252
Sefula, M. Coillard's Station,
258
Selous, Mr. F. C, 13
Selous, Mr. E., 81
SerpaPinto'sRoute,Senhor,g8
Serpents, Swarm of, 94
Setobi, 20, 31, 32, 40, 87
Shelters, Night, 148
Shesheke, 52, 61, 81, 85, 257
Shoshong, 16-26
Sikinini 's Kindness, 81
Silomba, 64
Silva Porto, 92, 123, 233
Simboula, 87
"Skerms," 25
Slave Buying, 164, 184
Slave Children, 213, 245
Slave Horrors, 205
Sombwe Caves, 198
"Sponges," African, 265

Sosineu, 29
Stores, List of, 38, 142
Stragglers Stolen and Res
cued, 103
Suku, a Name for God, 119
Surgical Operation, 224
Susi, 190, 215, 219
Swan, Mr. C. A., 226, 227,
251, 255
Tanganyika, Lake, 261, 274
Tests of Sincerity, 172
Thirst, 33, 40
Thought-reader, A, 106
Tinka, Kama's Hunter, 21, 26
Tontgaru Water, 31 -.
Trade Castes, 238
Trade in Garenganze, 233-235
Transvaal, 11
Tribes— Ambuella, 99 ; Ba-
bemba, 262, 274 ; Bachi
bokwe, 102-105, 146, i54i
156 ; Bakuti, 100 ; Balo
jashe, 103-105 ; Balovale,
155 ; Baluba, 231 ; Ba
mangwato, 16, 28 ; Bam
bunda, 99 ; Banalunda, 212 ;
Banyeti, 67 ; Baoussi, 267,
272 ; Baralong, 12 ; Barotse,
70-78,255,260; Basubia, 24,
35; Batauana, 30 ; Batoka,
J3»49) 51* 83 ; Mboghwa on
Lake Bangweolo, 263 ; Ma-
halaka, 17; Makololo, 89;
Masaroa, 32, 34 ; Mashu-
kulumbe, 77 ; Matabele, 19 ;
Mazitu, 262 ; Ovimbundu,
114 ; Valoimbe, 143, 146, 156
Trying Times, 66
Tsetse"-fly, 37
Twins, Rejoicing over, 241
Two Slave Children, 245
Victoria Falls, 82
Village Preaching, 27
Voyage to the Cape, 1
Waggon-travelling, /
War-dance, 229
War Rumours, 6
Waste of Corn, 194
Westbeech, Mr. (the late), 52,
62, 85
Wild Beasts in Camp, 198 ;
Dangers from, 200-206
Witchcraft, 66, 75, 92, 94, 95,
115* 236
Women, Position of, in Garen
ganze, 241
Zambesi River reached, 45 ;
crossed, 50
Zambesi Tribes, 89
Zambesi Watershed, gg
Zebra Flesh, 43
Zeerust, 14

LONDON : JAMES E. HAWKINS,
17, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. ', AND 36, BAKER STREET, W.