YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE ttourfftPfi tftto &uStef CONTAIMIHC A DESCRIPTION LAKES, MOUNTAINS, AND IS -Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, With some Account of their BORDERING TOWNS AND VILLAGES. BEING THE RESULT Off OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A RESIDENCE OF EIGHTEEN YEAR8 IN AMBLESIDE AND KESWICK. Br WILLIAM GREEN. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. IL KENDAL: Printed and Published, by R. Lough and Co. and Sold by them at the Chronicle Office, Finkle street: also by J, Richardson, 91, Royal Exchange, london; Constable, Edinburgh; Smith, Liverpool; Messrs. I. (lark, and Co. Manches ter; Wilcockson, Preston; Dewhurst, Lancaster; Foster, Kirby Lonsdale; Ashburner, Ulverstone; Gaythorpe, Whitehaven; Jollie, Scott, am! Thur- nam, Booksellers, Carlisle; Shaw, Penrith; Bateman, Appleby; M. and R. Brar.thwaite, Dowson, Gritton, Todhunter, and Messrs. Bellinghaiu and Airey, Kendal, and by the Author, at Ambleside. 1819. IMBEX TO THE SECOND VOLUME. A Angle Tarn 1.5.5 Angling Stone 229 Anglebarrow Crag , 229 Applethwaite 455 Armathwaite Hall 121 Castle 420 Bridge ... 419 Aaron End 168 Ash Side Mill... 163 Ashness Bridge 364, 371 Atkinson's Man 471 B Barrow 344 Barnscar 279 Bank End 230, 259 Barrow Common 16 Hall 20 s Cascade 21 Bassenthwake Water ... 116 ^ Halls 122 Church ... 125 —Chapel ... 125 Berrier „ 379 Berties Cave 202 Beauty of Buttermere... 180 Slake Hills , 449 B Bleaberry Fell 373, 373 Bleaberry Tarn or Burt- ness Tarn 214 Blenkinsop Castle 412 Black Lead Mine 166 Bowness 232 Knott 232 Bowscale 439 Tarn 473 Borrowdale 129, 147 Borrowdale Eagles ...... 141 Bowderdale „....245, 248 Bowder Stone ....129, 133 Bow Fell 154 Brig House 437 Brotherilkeld 26S Brougham Castle „ 387 Hall 385 Brackenthwaite ...., 207 Braithwaite 117, 197 Braithwaite Lodge. , 197 Brampton ......«.....'.....„„ 407 Broom Hill 48, 106 Brocklebeck 475, 495 Brigham , „.., 375 Bradness 125 Brundholm 459, 455, 126 IV. INDEX. Brownrigg 427 Buckbarrow 250 Burnmoor Tarn 246 Buttermere Eagles 214 Burtness Tarn 214 Buttermere 157, 179 Haws „ 209 Lake 179 Inn 178 Burthwaite Bridge 163 Burns „ 376 C Calder Bridge 252 Abbey 253 Caldbeck 443 Carlisle 391 Carrock 440 Carling Knott 222 Carlton Hall 390 'Castle Hewitt 390 'Castle head ... 114, 477f480 Castle Cra'gg 358 Castle on Casklerigg. 464 Castterigg 97, 475 Castle How.. 120 Castle iBank. „.... 359 Castle Lodge 162 Cat-Bells ....„.„ 43, 353 Causey Pike „ 343, 345 Court House 7 Cock Shot 103 Coom 163 Colwifh Bridge 261 Coatbarrdw 368 Chesnutt Hill 462 Cliffon 296 Countesses Pillar 386 Corby Castle 421 County Stones 261 Cockley Beck 262 Cotkermouth 285 Colddale Haws 351 Crosthwaite parish 2 Crosthwaite church ...45, 113 Crow Park 79 Crummock Water.,.157, 179 Crabtree Beck 224 Crosdale 227 Crook 250, 280 Crooka Bridge 453 D Dancing Gate 126,453 Dale Head 173 Dale Garth Hall 272 Dacre 380 Derwent Water 12 Bank 43 Hill 44 ~ Isle 47, 63 — Bridge 295 — Park 481 Devoke Water 272 Dissington 299 Dove Cote 114 Doddick $78 Dockray , 428 Dowthwaiie Head 432 Druids Temple 376, 462 E Eagle Crag 141 Easedale 143 Easedale Farther 144 Eamont Bridge ...: 381 Edenhall 413 Egremont 313 Ehen River 229 Emerald Bank 172 Ehnerdale Water ...157, 225 Dale 231 Bridge 258 ¦ Chapel 259 Eskdale. 271 INDE$. &u»dale Chapel 271 Eunthwaite 275 Eye Crag 19, Falcon Crag 19 Field Side 376 Floating Island 49 Fleet with 194 Floutern Tarn 225 ¦*- Pike 226 Foe Park 43, 109 Folly Bridge 16,4 Foul Sike _ 225 Fornside 433 Friar Crag 15, 47, 100 Garden Heads 10? Gatesgarth Dale 192 Gatesgarth 194 Gale Fell 226 Gable on Low Water ... 227 Gale 331 Gate Crag 361 Gill 378 Gale 453 Gillercoom 165 Gill Brow 175 Gillerthwaite 236 Gilsland Spa 411 Giants Caves 412 Glenderaterra 456 Gold Scope 172 Gosforth 252 Goose Well 376 Greta Hall 459 Great Crosthwaite 457 Grange , 38 Grange Crag 34 — r-U Bridge 35 Fell m Greenup .^>..„ I4Q, 14$ Grasmire 177, 201, 343, 35Q Grisedale Pike 198, 343, 351 Great Gable '28*8, 242 Great End 242, 169 Great Scale 3.2g Great Salkeld 413 Graystock Castle 452 Guthersgale 355 H Haws Rake 123 Harrison's Stickle 149 Hassness 196 Hartley Hill 215 Hay Cock 24$ Harrow Head 251 Harrington 29§ Hardknott 262 Hardknott Castle 262 Hedge Grove , 44 Herdhouse 226, 228 Hencomb 22$ Heskett Newmarket 442 High Lowdore 33 High Mill 124 High Side 124 High 174 High Snab 174 High and Low Park ... 220 High Cross , 225 High Nook ...220, 221, 226 High Trees 26Q Hill Top 430, 433 H"gh Row in Matterdale 432 High Row at Saddleback 465 High Heskett 3§Q High Seat 37f High Lowdore $fv // j0 from the end of the wooded promontory, ths way to which, irom the landing, is by the side of the lake. In No. S4 of the large e chings, there is a view of Falcon Crag, having a fore ground of trees, of which there are many upon the promontory. This scene is from the place where Barrow beck joins the lake, and it is one of the most magnificent in the whole circum ference of the valley. Beyond the landing, on the left is BarroW Hall, built by the late Joseph Pocklington, Esq. ; it is now the property of Koger Pockling ton, Esq. his nephew. Barrow Hall is an excellent house, it com mands a fine view of Derwent Water, with Skid daw beyond it; but from the lawn in front of the house, the neighbouring trees may be very happily arranged with the lake and the distance. North of the hall, some old buildings, en riched , by native trees wild and luxuriant, and having Falcon Ciag towering over them, is an union of materials at once picturesque and grand. Barrow Cascade, which is at the back of Bar row Hall, may be seen, on leave, by strangers, and, except when scantily supplied with water, is an object highly and deservedly admired. The persons who shew the fall generally meet the party between the new and the old build ings, but should none appear, the sound of the bell, at the entrance door, will instantly pro- SI cure the desired attention. The threshold on the left is overhung by a stately yew tree, from which the road passes under thick woods tp 33arroto Cascade, In every cascade, as before observed, there is a particular quantity of water, which is more agreeable to the eye, than any other ; and those who may view the one at Barrow, un der favourable circumstances, will, it is trusted, be much gratified, and ready to pronounce it one of the most attractive scents of its kind among the English lakes. There are two falls, but the upper one is arti ficial, and creditable to the rase of the late pro prietor, Mr. Pocklington, who, from its oiiginal channel, diverted the course of the stream, to a perpendicular excavation of the rock, over •which, the water, in a wet season, is hurled with thundering impetuosity, to a circular bason, from which, it passes quickly to the top of the lower fall, whence, in varied and elegani bound- ings, it is agitated to the receiving gulph, in which it finds a temporary rest. Fine trees, grassy banks, and rocks richly decked in many greened mosses, accompany these falls. The cascades are generally consi dered as the most amusing where first present ed, but from that place, it will be well to dc 22 scend to the foot of the lower fall, where may be observed, in a mixture of parts, one grand and interesting whole ; and afterwards view, in succession, the varied combinations, in progress from the bottom upwards. From the second stand, (the place where the falls are first noticed if the waters are abund ant, their sublimity can scaicely fail to afford an awfully interesting sensation of pleasure ; but such an accumulation of waters will be to some less pleading than when they cover the rock more sparingly, and if to the best points, they then furnish a spectacle of extraordinary beauty. No. 36 of the large etchings is from this place — No. 31 of the 78 etchings is from the dining-room. From the road, which ascends in pleasant windings, a passage lias been cut to the top uf the lower fall. Near the top of the upper fall, to which the zig-zag path has been conducted, stands a small building, with seats tor the accommodation of those who travel in search of diversified nature. From this building, over the tops of the trees, is a splendid view of Derwent Water. Of the Wastdale mountains, the summit of Great Gable is just seen, and ovtr the Manesty range, the top of Causey Pike. Crosthwaite Church appears between Der went Isle and Lord's Island, and Keswick, with. = a B 23 its pretty Town Hall ' Steeple, between Cock- shot and Castlehead. But the charms of this situation are, in a great degree, veiled by the woods, which have of late years interfered with the gratifications of the tourist. Barrow is, on the whole a beautiful place, but it wpuld be infinitely more beautiful, were the trees upon its surface judiciously reduced to half their present number. Beyond Barrow beck, is presented a scene of desolation, almost' sufficient to draw tears' from the eyes of the traveller of feeling, who would certainly lose^ nothing were he conducted through it blindfold, to the High Lowdore; even should he leave, unseen, "the Niagara of the Lake, the renowned water-fall of Low dore." The road from Barrow beck is under Thrang Crag— thrang with stones, but not as formerly, with trees, from among9t which, the rocks were most charmingly displayed. On the right, large stones margin the lake, now bald, bare, and to the eye unprofitable ; but formerly most happily associated with the native beauties of the country. Beyond these stones, in a half circle, a considerable piece of land projects, on which a grove of most elegant trees, chiefly weeping birches, formerly stood, but the unmerciful axe has levelled them all; — not one remaining to weep the fate of his fallen neighbours. 24 This little forest offered a cooling retreat front the noon-tide sun, and charming fore-grounds for the lake and mountains. One of our most celebrated poets declared, that it created in him a sensation of regret, when he saw an old post that he had long known, taken down. What would have been his feelings, had he seen a spot so profusely decorated, by the spontaneous beauties of nature, despoiled of its charms by sordid insensibility, and all its leafy honours laid low ? Of the hills round the lake, those which ex tend upon its western side, from Blea Crag to Cat Bells, are to an artist, the least valuable ; but' these were once in places wholly, in others partially obscured by the elegant near-ground foliage, through which, in detached parts, the barren district was frequently seen to great ad vantage. Skiddaw, from this promontory, is an agree able object. It is partly cutoff by the lands pro jecting from Barrow, beyond the end of which, appears Derwent Isle. Falcon Crag, acting as a distance to the woods at Barrow, is a grand object, but it is lessened in interest since the bay of Derwent Water between the crag and the spectator, has lost those trees which so desirably united with the rocks upon its margin. Like Skiddaw, Fal- con Crag was seen in endless and heavenly va riety, viewed from this admirable grove, out of the south end of which, and over another bay S5 of the lake appeared the waters of Lowdore, now no longer connected with those divine as semblages of fore and middle-grounds, which were wont to refresh the lover and the artist. The deformity of Manesty side, is now held forth to public view, over the most miserable patch of near-ground bordering on Derwent Water. Lowdore water-fall is about three miles from Keswick, and three quarters of a mile from Barrow. The birch grove was half way between the water-falls and the borders of the road for three quarters of a mile, rioted in a redundancy of wood. The writer, in 1809, observed " the trees about Lowdore were in too great profu sion ; to take one half of them away, would be greatly to improve this deservedly admired place." Had the reduction been to half the number, Lowdore had been a terrestrial para dise : if only one in five had been left, or one in ten, nay, even one in twenty, and well left, there had been less cause for regret. No. 35 of the large etchings is from a field near the the water-fall. It is a view of Derwent Water, with Skiddaw, having Falcon Crag upon the right, then ornamented with many near-ground trees. Of the local scenes amongst these mountains, few so deservedly claimed the attention of the tourist, till disrobed of its precious ornaments, as Lowdore ; but it can no longer be contem- VOEi II, plated with that pleasure which it formerly in spired. Notwithstanding the superabundance of wood with which it was environed, at the period referred to, its charms arrested peculiar attention, not only from the road, and the neighbouring fields," but from the river Derwent and the lake. It was delightful in its summer's garb, but bewitching in the variegated tints of spring and autumn. Although, from the road, and other more distant points, the scenery is ruined, it still pos sesses its former beauties when viewed from the several stands between the mill and water fall. This is owing to the preservation of the woods, left for a short distance on each side of the chasm, and for which, the public are in debted to the proprietor, or to the trustees of the late proprietor ; yet it is a question, whether for distant observation, it would not have suf fered less, had the destruction been universal. Not the slightest indication of a separation of the wooded and the woodless parts ought to have been discernible ; but this is not only evi dent, but it is performed in a straight line. This offence against taste cannot be too speedily corrected, even though it should, in some de gree, affect the nearer views. After incessant rains, the water-fall of Low dore, with its accompaniments, is sublimely picturesque ; but unfortunately for those who visit the lakes, not one in a hundred see it at such a time. The chasm through which the river passes, is immense, and, in dry seasons the stones en gorged by it subdivide and obscure its waters. Were its course diverted and conducted on the western side of the gulph to the end of Shep herd's Rock, it would be precipitated in one grand unbroken sheet, down to the channel below, and thus form the most splendid water fall of the lakes. The way from the public house to the fall is through a gate at the Keswick end of the bridge, and by a mill in ruins, to a bench, from which this stupendous chasm demands peculiar attention. The road is continued from the bench to a wooden bridge, extending from the left side of the chasm, to a massive rock, which, in dry weather, separates the waters. This magnificent scene, even if waterless, fills the mind with reverential awe. Gowder Crag, upon the left, broad, bold, and finely marked, rearing its aged head to an enormous, and to the eye, a painful height, overlooks the embat tled projections of Shepherd's Crag, upon the right. These rocks are most beautifully en riched with oak, ash, and birch trees, of which, some are grand and stately, others picturesque and wild, fantastically expand over, and'impend, from rocks where vegetation would seem almost impossible. e 2 28 Few places offer so many excellent fragments for the exercise of the mind of the amateur, and the pencil of the artist as Lowdore., " Rejoice to roar Down the rough rocks of dread Lowdore, Rush, raving- on, with boisterous sweep, And foaming-, rend the frighted deep. Horrors like these, at first alarm. But soon with savage grandeur charm, And raise to noblest thoughts, the mind, Thus by thy fall, Lowdore, reclin'd The cragged cliff, impending wood, Whose shadows mix o'er half the flood, The gloomy clouds, with solemn sail, Scarce lifted by the languid gale, O'er the capp'd kill, or darken'd vale." Dr. Dalton's Descriptive Poem. Mr. Gilpin's observations on Lowdore, are just and elegant. " This water-fall is a noble object, both in itself, and as an ornament to the lake. It ap pears more as an object connected with the lake, as we approach by water. By land, we see it over a promontory of low ground, which, in some degree hides its grandeur. At the distance of a mile it begins to appear with dignity. " But, of whatever advantage the fall of Low dore may be as a piece of distant scenery, its effect is very noble, when examined on the sput. 29 As a single object, it wants no accompaniments of offskip, which would rather injure than as sist it, They would disturb its simplicity and repose. The greatness of its parts affords scenery enough. Some instruments please in concert, others you wish to hear alone. " The stream falls through a chasm between two towering perpendicular rocks. The interme diate part broken into large fragments, forms the rough bed of the cascade. Some of these fragments, stretching out in shelves, hold a depth of soil sufficient for large trees. Among these broken rocks, the stream finds it way through a fall of at least an hundred feet ; and, in heavy rains, the water is every way suited to the grandeur of the scene. Rocks and wa ter in opposition can hardly produce a more animated strife. Thegrcund, at the bottom, also, is very much broken, and overgrown with trees and thickets, amongst which, the water is swal lowed up into an abyss, and at length finds its way through deep channels to the lake." Equally appropriate and not less beautiful is the following description from Mr. Hutchin son's pen. '* Around us was spread a grove, formed of tall oak, ash, and birch trees, which gave an agree able coolness and shade ; above the trees, with uplifted looks, to the right, we viewed a moun tain of rock, called Shepherd's Crag, forming a rude circular mass, shelving from the foot, to wards its crown, in a spiral manner ; on every so plane of which, and every step that hung upon its sides, herbage and shrubs grew fantastically, whilst the very summit wore a verdant cap of grass. To the left there arose a perpendicular grey cliff, said to be a thousand feet in height from the lake, rent into innumerable fissures, and standing like massive columns, in rude ar rangement, to support the seeming ruins of a shattered tower, grown white with storms, and overlooking Shepherd's Crag some hundred feet. In the opening between these stupend ous rocks, the river pours its whole stream, forming a grand cascade : as the channel is rugged, the water makes a sheet of foam, and roars amongst the caverns and cliffs so, that you are deprived of hearing any thing but its tumult: — .eaching the wood where the de scent is le»s precipitate, it winds amongst the trees, sometimes shewing itself, and at others totally concealed, whilst it serpentines towards the lake. The spray, which is dashed around the rocks, and carried upon the breeze, where- ever it meets the sun through the openings of the cliffs, takes the colours of the rainbow." " One would conceive Thompson had this> cataract in his eye when he wrote his Seasons." " Smooth to the shelving hi ink a copious flood Rolls fair and placid ; where, collected all In one impetuous torrent, down the steep ll thundering shoots, and shakes the country round At first an azure sheet it rushes, broad ; Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, Ahd from the- long resounding rocks below, Dash'd in a cloud uf foaui, it sends aloft -3 SI A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower g Not can the tortur'd wave he^e find repose, But raging still amid the shaggy rocks, Now 'dashes o'er the scitter'd fragments, novf Aslant the hollowed channel rapid darts, •And falling fast from gradual slope to slope, With wild infracted course, and lesseu'd roar It gains a safer bed, and steals at last Along the mazes of the quiet vale."— The public house at Lowdore, being furnish ed with beds, is a convenient place for those who wish to study in its neighbourhood. Rambling parties may likewise be accommo dated with dinners, or tea, and from their apart ment see both Skiddaw and the lake. Above this house rises Shepherd's Crag, on which, formerly sported many elegant weeping birches. The southern end of Shepherd's Crag is called Hollow Stone Crag. On the top of the hill, on the way from the inn to Grange, a segment of the circumjacent mountains is presented in a series of craggy heights, extending from Shepherd's Crag upon the left, to Maiden Moor upon the right. Grange Crag, with its huge rocks, starting from amongst a profusion of trees, with Grange Fell over it, is the leading 'feature of this romantic scene. At the bottom of the hill, -the road joins the •lake, but less pleasantly than formerly, when the mon&trous fiagiueuts with wnichthe flat is a§ strewed, were partially screened by well-shaped ash, oak, and birch trees. Instead of that ex quisite mixture of grey and green, formerly ex hibited from the lake upwards to the top ot Hollow Stone Crag, the whole is now one scene of miserable desolation. It is true, that, from the old stub or tree roots, other trees may be expected to arise, but though this cutting took place years ago, little progress has been made in the growth of the trees, (none in the birch grove) owing, perhaps, to the depredations of cattle. At the end of the flat part of the main road, ascends on the left, in many acute angles, that from Lowdore to Watenlath. The interesting views presented in this road will be mentioned hereafter. In animadverting on the injury sustained by the indiscriminate use of the axe upon the here tofore exquisite combinations, demanding, at every step, from Barrow to High Lowdore, the attention of the traveller, the writer has been alike actuated with a view to the pleasure of fu ture visitors, and the real interest of the pro prietor. From the frequent recurrence of universal prostration in the management. of woods, some may conceive it to be n.ore lucrative than judi cious weeding; but it is hoped, that, in an union of utility with beauty, proprietors will see their best interest, as the late Bishop of Llandajf, and other enlightened land owners S3 did, who, in all their recent cuttings about the head of Windermare, left numerous standards. In places remote from the public road, or in flat countries, where little can be seen, deformity is less an evil. But, in the finest parts of this island, no.t only to destroy the lovely, but to substitute deformity, is, by wholesale, to mar the pleasures of those, who, by travelling, enrich the very persons who act the part complained of, and who ought to make it their study to ex hibit so far as they are concerned, " nature to advantage dressed." By planting the site of the Birch Grove, and other places upon the lands belonging to Low dore, where beauty wanted aiding, or deformity obscuring, and by fencing, nurturing, and in every way encouraging the growth of trees, Lowdore, in thirty or forty years, would be wonderfully improved, and in sixty, might re gain all its former charms. At the end of Hollow Stone Crag, the road leaving that on the left to Watenlath, ascends to the dwelling called High Lowdore, the de scent from which, has in view an enclosed bot tom, from which, swelling knoll5, spread over with trees in all the wildness of nature, give pleasure to the eye. This pretty piece of ground is flanked on the south by the rugged rocks of Grange. A soli tary farm, called Field House, is seen a little to the left. VOL. II. F 34 The gate under Grange Crag is about one hundred yards from the bridge; and the rocks on the crag from the neighbourhood of this gate exhibit surfaces of a grandeur Tarely equalled. These are admirably contrasted, both? in form and colour, with the trees which par tially and sportively obscure them. Some hang o^er from the fissures of the rocks, others grow from mossy shelves, but those on the summit of the hill, finish the scene with an har monious and almost endless variety. Between this charming assemblage, and the fore-ground trees, of which there are numbers, the range of hill extending from High Lowdore southward, is an appropriate back-ground. Above High Lowdore is Lowdore Fell, but the bold projection upon that range opposite to Grange Crag, is called Blea Crag. This rocky district so gloriously spread over with trets, is in strong contrast to Lowdore, but like Lowdore, suppose it stripped, and all its charms would, from that moment, be no more. From the side of Grange Crag, and from the top of the crag, tl-e river Derwent, in mazy windings, may be seen travelling, though sleepily, to Derwent Water, beyond which, Skiddaw rises to a fine apex, and is the finishing object to a series of admirable combinations. A little out of the road, beyond the gate, a scene greatly and deservedly admired by all 35 lovers of the picturesque demand^ attention. Tfe is a view of Grange Bridge, and" the village of Grange, planted upon the banks of the river Derwent, having the sweetly wooded Holm Crag, and other knolls, swelling above the buildings, over which Gate Crag, the Knitting Hows, aud Blea Crag sublimely ascend. A part of Grange Crag on the left contributes to form the whole into a masterly composition. The source of the river Derwent is in Sprink ling Tarn, from which it passes, in a steep de scent, to St) head Tarn. From St) head Tarn it is the companion of the traveller, from Wast dale to Borrowdale, part of the way to Taylor's Gill Band, where, in a grand and noble water fall, fringed by numerous trees it falls into Seathwaite. It is joined below Stotkley Bridge by the stream falling between the Aron End of the mountain, called Sprinkling, and Allan Crags, and from that junction it passes the vil lage of Seathwaite, and the black-lead mines, and under Seathwaite Bridge, Strand Bridge, Folly Bridge, Langthwaite Bridge, and New Bridge, to its junction with another branch which runs by Stonethwaite. This latter arm of the Derwent rises under Bowfell and Hanging Knott, and falls rapidly from Angle Tain into Langstreth, down which, in a somewhat easier mood, it murmurs under Sergant Ciag, and Coom Head, to the foot of Eagle Crag, where it is joined by another, but more turbulent stream, from the valley called Qreenup, from which junction, much and vaii* f 3 38 Ously agitated, it passes to Stonethwaite Bridge; and onward, more serenely, to Rosthwaite Bridge, a little below which, it joins the Seath waite arm, already described : — thence, much opposed by a stony bed, it hurries on between Cattle ("rag and Bowder Stone, to Grange, and from Grange, in a dozing humour, to the sleepy waters of the lake. Mr. Gilpin, who saw the river Derwent no higher than Rosthwaite, says, " And, here, I cannot help remarking the peculiar character of this mountain stream. There is not, perhaps, a river in England which passes through such a variety of different scenes. What wild romantic channel it shapes before it enters the vale of Bor rowdale, is to us unknown." The part, here alluded to, is that already de scribed by the writer. " Where first we commenced our acquaint ance with it, its passage through that mountain chasm is marked with objects, not only great in themselves, but rarely to be found elsewhere in such interesting combinations. " From a mountain stream it soon assumes a new character, and changes into a lake, where it displays the wonders we have just seen. " From hence emerging, it again becomes a river, but soon forms the lake of Bassenthwaite, of form and dimensions very different from that of Kesw ick. 37 " Contracting itself again into a river, it puts on a character entirely new* Hitherto it has Only adorned the wild,rough scenes of nature : all these it now relinquishes, — rocks, lakes, and mountains, and enters a country where all its accompaniments are soft and lovely. Amongst other places it visits the noble and picturesque ruins of Cockermouth Castle, under the walls of which it glides. " From hence it passes to the sea, which, many streams of greater consequence never meet under their own names, but are absorbed by larger rivers, while the Derwent, after all the astonishing scenes it has adorned, adds to its Other beauties, those of an estuary. " In this last part of its course it visits Workington Hall, one of the grandest and most beautiful situations in the country. " Besides its hanging woods and sloping lawns, it is remarkable for having been the first prison-house of the unfortunate Mary, of Scot land, after she had landed within the dominions of her rival. Here the Derwent becomes na vigable, and forms the best natural harbour in Cumberland." From a field on the western side of the river, Castle Crag, partly obscured on the left by Grange Crag, is seen beyond the bridge; and over the road connecting the bridge with the village, Holm Crag and Gate Crag. This view of the bridge and mountains, though excellent, *8 is inferior to that first presented on the way from Lowdore to. Grange. Grange is four miles from Keswick. Tra vellers on pleasure round the lake usually leave Grange on the right for the purpose of viev.ing Bowder Stone, which is five niiies from ivts- wick. From the Stone, if in carriages, they must, of necessity, re-trace the Keswick road to the ford opposite to Grange ; but a> Bo wdt-r Stone will, with more propriety, be described hereafter, for the present, it may be moie ad visable to conduct the leader round the lake. The road from Lowdore to Grange, direct, passes the river Derwent at the lord on the south side ot the bridge. Grange is an ancient and picturesque village, consisting of about a dozen houses, which are finely shaded by trees. It was here that the late Mr. Banks, the philosopher, was born. A short distance from Grange, is a farm house, called Rigg Side, and beyond it, on the left, under Manesty side, the Ellers. Manesty, in 1807, from many beautiful fore ground trees, furnished rich and interesting views of the lake looking towards Saddleback, and of the Borrow dale mountains, having Castle Crag as a principal feature, with the high sum mits overlooking Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite beyond it. Now, not a tree is left standing, either for the pleasure of the mind, or the shelter of the body from the howling tempest. Near Manesty is a mineral spring, which is\ said to possess medicinal virtues: its waters, which contain a stroitg brine of inland salt, were analyzed in the year 1757, by Div Rutty. From Manesty to Water End, there are three roads. The lower, or old road, as a passage for carts, is now blocked up, and only used by those on foot to the house. The highest road, first made by Lord Wil liam Gordon, on his obtaining the consent of the landed proprietors, was found to be too much elevated ; but the middle, which is ex cellently kept, was conducted afterwards be tween the old, and the first roads, and com mands a succession of scenes replete with vi sual gratification. \ The highest, now almost impassable, deviate* from the present road at Manesty. At the third gate from Manesty on the left, are sdme fine oaks, which may, in time, prove noble forest trees. Here the higher Cat Bell is seen over the road. At this place the lower road turns down to the lake, under a bank on the right, pic turesquely crowned with large old pollard oaks, superbly in contrast with the water and the mountains ; but their brethren, on the sloping bank bt tween the middle and lower roads, which were wont so gracefully to interweave their branches, and thereby delight the enraptured 40 tourists, save one in a hundred, are transmuted; but even these, as opposed to the distant ob jects, are worth their weight in gold. The trees between the middle and the upper roads are left in a larger proportion than those below the middle road, but they are too high to assist in forming combinations with more re mote materials. All along this first terrace, the islands, and the rich country beyond them are in view, with Skiddaw and Saddleback swelling majestically over the whole. From the fourth gate, on a glance towards the head of the lake, may be discovered the pretty bays extending from Otter Island to the river Derwent, where, in graceful scatterings, the trees formerly waved over the lake, and were reflected in its limpid waters. They are all now gone, and left the whole denuded space bald, bare, and to the draftsman wretchedly unpro fitable. These trees were most valuable as fore-grounds to the surrounding scenes. Near the wood which divides the two open parts of the terrace, Otter Island, with the lake, and beyond it, Lowdore, Ashness, and Waten lath, are in agreeable composition, but greatly in contrast to the Skiddaw aspect, just mention ed, and to the retrospect on Borrowdale, where, over the winding coast of the lake is seen, Castle. Crag, still a principal feature, with Grange Crag and Grange Fell on the left, and Gate 41 Crag upon the right, beyond which, rises Coom head, and all the neighbouring heights, extend* ing on the left to the Knotfs, and on the right to Keppel Crag, Near the lake, at a place called Manesty Nook, which is on the south side of the bottom of the first wood, remains the rubbish of an old lead mine, in the vicinity of which, springs ano ther mineral water, said to differ considerably from the waters of the mineral spring near M»t nesty farm house. Had the trees on the enclosed grounds been weeded into such quantities as to have benefited the growth of those remaining, probably a great er sum had been produced, than by the de struction of the stately foresters, which have been sacrificed ; the loss of which is the more to be regretted, as they were the only well- grown trees on the delightful road, from which the Keswick end of the lake was to be observed. But the young woods, which may be called in aid of the distant scenes, if well managed, will greatly enhance the beauties, at present alter nately too much concealed, and where there are no trees, and no other foreground than th^ road, too boldly exhibited, • From the second terrace, redundant in its foliage, appears the finely embayed coast about Water End and Brandelow. All these lands are here in view, though in combinations, with dis tances differing from those presented by the vou ij. G ffrsfc terrace. The deeply indented shores on the opposite side of the lake, with Derwent Lake, and Lord's Island, Friar Crag, Cock shot, Castle Head, the town of Keswick, and the neighbouring seats, Castlerigg, Latrigg, with Lonscale Fell over it, and on each side Skiddaw and Saddleback are a most happy assemblage. The eastern coast, all the way from Castle rigg to Grange, is in view from the tefrace : Wallow Crag, and Falcon Crag, though in dis tance, are still good features Near the joiningof theupper with the travelled road, appear the mountains Swinside and Barf; and, on rounding the hill, at the end of Cat Bells, Rolling End, Causey Pike, Utarside, and Barrow, with Stonycroft, and Uziker, under them, and all the rich woods stretching from those houses to Skell Gill ; to which last house the road pursued direct, would lead, but that to Keswick turns suddenly on the right, and in various windings, to a house called Swinside Lodge, at the bottom of the hill. Halfway down this hill, on the right, is the road to Water End, the elegant and occasional residence of Lord William Gordon. Ascending from Swinside Lodge, a road on the left leads through Newlands to Buttermere. The top of the hill called Swinside is above the highest part of the carriage road. From this road backward, there is a peep at the head 43 Of Derwent Water. Swinside will be noticed hereafter. Descending, having on the right Foe Park, there is on the left, an excellent view of the flat country towards Bassenthwaite. A little beyond the bottom of the hill, on the right, is Derwent Bank, built by the late Joseph Pocklington, Esq. and by him called Finkle Street. It is now the property of Lord William Gordon. The late Lord Sunderlin resided a considerable time at Derwent Bank. From the front of the house there is a fine view of Skiddaw over the foot of the lake, and of Keswick, partly hid by a rising ground, Call ed the Heads, and over the town, Greta Hall, the residence of Robert Southey, Esq. Poet Lau- reat, with Latrigg beyond it, and, in distance, Saddleback may be seen. Some pretty trees on the left, and Foe Park on the right, as side- screens, give Derwent Isle, and Lord's Islands, with Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag beyond them, in an excellent combination. Crow Park and Isthmus, with its tasteless spriggery of larches, are seen between the town and Derwent Isles. From the road, a little nearer Keswick than Derwent Bank, the cones of the two Cat Bells, on a retrospective view, are seen grandly swell ing above the Foe Park woods. Pigmy Hall, the property and occasional r% sidence of Sir Frederick Morshead, Bart, is on g 2 44 the left ; it was built by Henry Spence, Esq* who inhabited it for several years. From the field between Pigmy Hall and the lake, there is a capital half circle, extending from Skiddaw to Ashhess, in which half circle Keswick i3 conspi cuous ; but this scene is greatly disfigured by the vile larches, which, in a soldier-ltke arrange ment, extend from the north to the south of the Isthmus. A little beyond Pigmy Hall, on the left, the propei ty and habitation of Mr. Muckle, Hedge Grove meets the eye. It is but a short distance from Portinscale, where the road round the lake joins that from Keswick to Whitehaven. Portinscale is one mile and a quarter from Keswick, and consists of about a dozen houses, mostly the habitations of genteel families. It is planted on the gentle swell of a hill, which rises from the lake and river. From neighbouring grounds, which are high er than the houses of the village of Portinscale, may be viewed the lakes of Derwent and Bas- senthwaite, with all the finely wooded and fer tile country, reaching from Swinside to Skid daw, a scene, which for extent, beauty, and sublimity, can rarely be equalled. A little nearer Keswick, on the right, is Der went Hill, the seat of William Slack, Esq. It is situate upon the crown qf an eminence, south of Long Bridge. Derwent Hill has a view of Bassenthwaite, the church and town of Kes. 45 wick, and all the neighbouring seats, farnl houses, and cottages, which give life and spirit, not only to the exquisite valley just mentioned, but to the district eastward. Skiddaw, in ma jestic grandeur, overlooks the whole. A small portion only, of the land between Der went Hill and the lake, being the property of Mr. Slack, the accompaniments of wood are less happythan if tutored in aid of one of the most charming scenes on Derwent Water. Long Bridge, which spans the river Der- Went, is one mile and fifty yards from the Town Hall in Keswick. Long Bridge may be drawn, and accom panied by Skiddaw or Saddleback, or by the fells of Newlands and Braithwaite. The public road from this bridge presents upon the left, Crosthwaite Church, which is a building, not only well formed for the pencil, but in happy association with the scenes by which it is surrounded. A . little beyond the bridge, on the left, the Portinscale road turns off to Crosthwaite Church; that from Keswick to the church something beyond it, and that to Wigton and Carlisle by Bassenthwaite still near er the town of Keswick. There is likewise from Long Bridge, over two fields, called Low Howray, and High How- ray, a foot-path which meets the turnpike road near the bridge at the end of Keswick. From 4(5 fhis road, on its approach to Keswick, the half circle from Skiddaw to Grangeis in prospect, and on the way from Keswick to Portinscale, thatfrom Grange to Skiddaw. The mountains of New- lands and Braithwaite, Cat Bells, Hindsgarth, Robinson, Causey Pike, and Grizedale Pike, as presented in the latter direction, are very in teresting: Derwent Hill is between these mountains and the river, which is not far dis tant from the path ; but the colour of the house at Derwent Hill is not in harmony either with the remote or middle grounds. Any house differing from a mixture of the' rocks on all the neighbouring uplands, ought to differ in its tone only, which tone may generally be somewhat lighter than the medium colour. Mr. Stanger's house is a respectable specimen of tint and tone. Mr. Crosthwaite, in his map of Derwent Wa ter, has mentioned the middle of Low Howray, as his station for viewing the circumjacent country. Having conducted the traveller round Der went Water, it may be proper, first to speak of the lake, and afterwards of' the lands lying be tween it and the circumscribing road. Erjattitn; on Bnftunt TOaten It is the usual practice with the boatmen, who are guides likewise, to recommend their Jit employers to commence their excursions on the eastern side of the lake, and to return Upon the western side. This course is certainly the best that can be taken, because the party sitting at the steerage, and usually looking over the bow of the boat, will have not only the best view of the moun tains, but the easiest passage when the winds blow from the south and west. The boats having cleared the pier belonging to Derwent Isle, pass along Friar Crag, a rocky promontory, covered with oaks, and a few firs growing upon its southern extremity. The rock with the firs upon it, is at first a bold side-ground to Wallow Crag, seen over Lord's Island, and afterwards, on making east ward, to Castle head, with Saddleback in dis tance. Friar Crag Bay is a pleasant half circle, from which, the course is next between the farm house called Stable Hills, and Lord's Island. Lord's Island is now a wilderness of trees, and seldom visited by travellers, who, in their perambulations, would brobably he entangled in the thickets and briars. But, as a right hand screen, Lord's Island gives value to the Borrowdale mountains, which are likewise somewhat benefited by the slenderly wooded head-land called Broom Hill. 48. Having passed Lord's Island, Broom Hill is a very valuable near-ground for the sublime, rocks of Barrow, towering over the extensive woods of the Water Edge Bank, Here Skiddaw is grand in retrospect. Some persons limited to time, and others dis tressed by unfavourable weather, cannot conve niently examine the country both by land and water ; but if, from the lake only, it will greatly add to their recreation, and especially if their streams are in full flow, to visit Barrow and Lowdore, For a near view of Barrow Cascade, the boat makes direct from Broom Hill, having Ramps Holm on the right, to the pier, near Barrow Hall. Some tourists, from the boat, after having seen the water-fall at Barrow, walk from Bar row to Lowdore, and when the rocks of Borrow dale so finely unfolded themselves behind the woody labyrinths, that deviation gave an ele* gant variety to the water views ; but it is now advisable to return to the pier, by which they will not only avoid the sterility of the road, but view the towering Falcon Crag from the end of the wooded promontory formerly men tioned. From this promontory, if Lowdore is to be vi sited, the boat passes to the mouth of the river 49 Derwent, unless the party wish to see the float ing island, which is about a quarter of a mile from the public house at Lowdore. Mr. Otley has furnished the writer with the following account of the floating island, a phe nomenon of which very exaggerated accounts have been given by some individuals, while others have treated it as entirely fabulous. " The floating island has been said to ap pear once in seven years, but that is quite un certain ; however, it is seldom or never observ ed, but towards the close of a warm summer. It appeared above water in the year 1808, from the 20th of July till the beginning of October: in September 1813, a small portion was seen; and, in August 1815, it measured eighty-eight yards in length. " It is situated about a hundred and fifty yards from the shore, in a place where the lake is scarcely a fathom deep ; it is a congeries of vegetable matter, forming a stratum of peat earth, about six feet in thickness, which, some times to the extent of half an acre, is elevated from the bottom to the surface of the water. It is covered with vegetation, principally the isoetes lacustris, interspersed with lobelia dort- manna, and other plants commonly found in the bottom of this, and all the neighbouring lakes, and, when under water, cannot be dis tinguished from the adjoining parts. Under neath, to the depth of several feet, is a bed of very soft clay. It has been contended, that' VOL. n. H 50 the term floating island, was inaccurate, applied to this subject, as it never moves from its situ ation, always adhering at its sides to the adja cent earth under water. Floating Island, how ever, is the name by which it has always been known, and there can be no manifest impro priety in retaining the appellation. " Various have been the solutions offered for this phenomenon. Opposite the place where the island appears, a stream of water is precipi tated down a rock, forming a small cascade. Soon after leaving the rock, the water sinks in a bed of stones and gravel, and its entrance in to the lake is not discovered. The agency of this water has been made use of, in various ways, to account for the appearance of the island. " Some suppose that the subterranean pass age of the stream may be continued to the place where the island appears, and that its usual aperture being in a dry season choked up, the increased pressure on the swelling- of the brook, by rain, may elevate the island : others say that the water, in its fall, being beat into a kind of foam, a quantity of air may be conveyed to this place, mechanically mixed with the water, and, that this air, on its disengagment, may force up the earth along with it : while a third party supposes that the alluvia of vegetable matter may, in this manner, be carried under neath, and by its decomposition, a quantity of carburetted hydrogen gas may be evolved suffi cient to produce this effect. 51 " One imagines that a quantity of carburet- ted hydrogen gas sufficient to elevate this mass of earth may be produced by the decomposition of pyrites, supposed to be placed underneath it, while another, not caring to enter so deeply in to the subject, thinks the air contained in the leaves of plants growing upon the island, may be sufficient to give it buoyance. " It would be tedious to enumerate the ar guments for and against these different theories; one material circumstance, however, has gene rally escaped observation, namely, that the air supposed to buoy up this island is not collected in a body underneath, but interspersed through the whole mass ; and the most rational conclu sion seems to be, that this air or gas is gene rated in the body of the island, by the decom position of the vegetable matter of which it is composed, and being produced most copiously in hot weather, the earth at length becomes so impregnated therewith, as to render the whole specifically lighter than the water, which then insinuating itself between the substratum of clay, and the peat earth forming the island, bears it to the surface, where it continues for some time, till the volume of gas being re duced, the earth gradually sinks to its former level, to remain till a sufficient quantity of gas is again accumulated." >• When the lake is a mirror and reflects the rocks and waters of Lowdore, there can scarcely be a more fascinating movement than that from h 2 52 the floating island to the landing opposite the inn. Jn still weather, the echoes of Lowdore are good. A cannon is kept for the amusement of strangers. From Lowdore, the boats generally proceed to St. Herbert's Island. In this part of the voyage, is exhibited a concave of mountains, of such varied forms and hues as to fill the mind with pleasingly solemn sensations; and, in a survey of the scenes surrounding him, the spectator cannot but contemplate with religious awe, the wonders of his benificent creator ; removed from the vernal desolation which ava rice has, in some instances, directed, but whose little-minded workings are here so far softened down, as but little to alloy his feelings. ?t ^mint's Manly. . St. Herbert's Island is half way between the head and the foot, but nearer the western than the eastern side of the lake. A boat making di rectly from the mouth of the river Derwent to St. Herbert's, when a quarter of a mile from that island, would be about the middle of the lake. Upon Derwent Water there are three islands, differing but little in magnitude. Lord's Island is the largest, St. Herbert's the least, and Der went Isle of a size between the other two. Lord's 33 island is little more, and St. Herbert's little less than five acres. Ramps Holm contains one acre. A rock, called Ling Holm, with shrubs upon it, rises from the lake, between the western coast and Derwent Isle. St. Herbert's Island is an oblong figure, and covered with trees,' chiefly oak, all of which thrive wonderfully. Mr. Hutchinson says, " Sir Wilfrid Lawson, when he cut down the old timber, which grew here, in 1761, caused it to be re-planted ; the young trees thrive well, and make the island a beautiful object on this fine lake." Of course, these trees must now be of fifty-six years growth, and they are fine, but too redundant to make stately forest trees. Properly thinned, they would not only conduce to the present and future profit of the proprie tor, but to that of the republic of taste, at large. At a distance, the island appears an impervi ous wood, and consequently too lumpish for its situation, and composition, with the neighbour* ing rocks and mountains. Mr. Hutchinson, in his history of Cumber land, tells .us, " St. Herbert's Island is famous for being the residence of St. Herbert, a priest and confessor, who, to avoid the intercourse of man, and that nothing might withdraw his at- at tention from unceasing mortification and prayer, chose this island for his abode. The scene around him was well adapted for the severity of his religious life. He was surrounded with the lake, from whence he received his diet. On . every hand, the voices of water-falls excited the most solemn strains of meditation, — rocks and mountains were his daily prospect, inspiring his mind with the might and majesty of the creator. Here this recluse erected an hermitage, the re mains of which appear to this day, being built of stone with mortar, and formed into two apart ments. The outward one, about twenty-two feet long and sixteen broad, has probably been his chapel, the other, of narrower dimensions, his cell. " St. Herbert was the bosom friend of St. Cuthbert, who wished, and obtained his desire of departing this life, on the same day, hour, and minute with that holy man. " In the year 1574, at the distance of almost seven centuries, we find this place resorted to in holy services and procession, and the hermit's memory celebrated in religious offices." In what follows, the feelings of the writer are in consonance with those of Mr. Hutchinson, '* As to our own parts, we should have had much pleasure in viewing this lake on its great Jestival, crowded with devotees, and to have heard the echoes making solemn repeats to the sacred songs, by which this holiday was cele brated." 55 Mr. Hutchinson, in reference to certain state ments that are not here given, thinks " it is pro bable, from the preceding record, that the island belonged to the church till the time of the dis solution, though we have no record to prove the position, or to*shewhow it came to the house of Brayton, whose property it now is." St. Herbert's Island is now the property of Wilfrid Lawson, Esq. to whom it was left by the late Sir Wilfrid Lawson. Near the site of the hermitage, was erected, about twenty years ago, by Sir Wilfrid Lawson, a building of one story, and two rooms. It is from a design by the Rev. Mr. Wilkinson, who then resided at Ormathwaite. This little fabric is an oblong square, with the corners cut off in forty-fives : the south en trance is by a portico, supported on wooden pillars, round which, have grown plants, adapt ed to its design and situation. The furniture is not antique, but it is old, and the whole, if well kept, would be a pretty place. The walk round the island is wholly neglected. A very small portion of the money that migbt be ob tained by a reduction of the superabundant trees, expended on this place, would not only pre sent its improved localities in perfect beauty, but the island, at a distance, in enviable association with the up-stretching rocks and wood lands. Of St. Herbert's, Mr. Gilpin observes, " If a painter were desirous of studying the whole 53 circumference of the lake, from one station, St. Herbert's Island is the spot he should choose ; from whence, as from a centre, he might see it in rotation. I have seen a set of drawings taken from this stand, which were hung round a circular room, and intended to give a general idea of the boundaries of the lake. But as no representation could be given of the lake itself, the idea was lost, and the drawings made but an awkward appearance," But, may not the fore-grounds, presented from a lowly island, or the margin of a lake, be com bined with the distant objects ? The views in question might, perhaps, have been improved, if the woods and thickets on St. Herbert's Island had been called in aid of the labours of the painter. The scenery of a lake is rarely equal in attraction when viewed from the lake it self, to that which it puts forth from the land upon its borders ; and the passion for boat prospects is owing to the delusive fascinations of the water. Objects placed in an horizontal valley, when observed from a low stand, appear confusedly huddled together : when, from its circumjacent heights, the parts are shewn dis tinctly. High or low will seldom suit the taste of a painter, who will always move over the surface of his near-grounds, till the component parts of his subject appear to him to be arrang ed in the best possible order. Mr. Mason, on Mr. Gray's preferring Crow Park to Cockshot, has the following observa tions. 57 " The picturesque point is always thus low, in all prospects, a truth, which, though the land scape painter knows, he cannot always observe, since the patron who employs him to take a view of his place, usually takes him to some elevation for that purpose, in order, I suppose, that he may have more of him for his money : yet, when I say this, I would not be thought to mean that a drawing should be made from the lowest point possible, as for instance, in this very view from the lake itself; for then a fore-ground would be wanting. On this account, when I sailed on Derwent Water, I did not receive so much " pleasure from the superb theatre of mountains around me, as when, like Mr. Gray, I traversed its margin ; and, therefore, I think he did not lose much by not taking boat." That the picturesque point is low in all pros pects, is a position to which the writer, as an artist, cannot assent, — nor that it is generally low. In a hilly country, he thinks it is more frequently of a tolerable degree of elevation. This opinion will probably be generally adopted by those who have long been in the habit of up land scrambling, where, in retrospect, the best selections may be cut off in any quantity, by the near-ground rocks and trees. High stands generally require their fore-grounds to obscure to a greater distance than low stands. Mr. Gilpin speaks thus of the eastern side of Derwent Water : " Nor do these rocky shores recommend themselves to us only as fore- VOL. II. I 58 grounds. We found them, every where, the hap piest stations for obtaining the most picturesque views of the lake. The inexperienced conductor showing you the lake, carries you to some garish stand, where the eye may range far and wide : and, such a view, indeed, is well calculated, as we have just seen, to obtain a general idea of the whole. But he who is inquest of the pic turesque scenery of the lake, must travel along the rough side-screens that adorn it, and catch its beauties as they arise in smaller portions, — its little bays, and winding shores, — its deep re cesses, and hanging promontories, — its garnish ed rocks, and distant mountains. These are, in general, the picturesque scenes which it af fords." These " little bays," and " winding shores," " garnished rocks," and " distant mountains," have been long the recreation of the writer, who, dreading farther mischief, made, in 1816, pencil drawings all along the margin of the lake, from Isthmus to Stable HilL?. From Stable Hills to Barrow beck, in places, the scenes are worth attention ; but, from Bar row beck to Manesty Nook, formerly the rich est part of the lake, in graceful trees, little can now be done, to the satisfaction of the artist ; nor from Manesty Nook by Water End to Der went Bank. This is occasioned, not by the lack of trees, but because they are so closely arranged, that the distant country cannot be seen from amongst them. 59 These marginal views, in their kind, are good, but on comparison, are seldom so interesting as those from higher, but not garish stands. All the elevated stands round Derwent Water are either garish, or in wooded obscurity. To beauty, they are full of ceaseless impediments and wants. From the north end of St. Herbert's, Skid daw and Saddleback are seen swelling majes- tically above the town and neighbourhood of Keswick. The church here, a pretty object, is seen between Foe Park on the left, and on the right Isthmus. Islands and main land are here apparently united; for Derwent Isle and Lord's Island seem only like wooded promontories ; Castlehead and Castlerigg over them are dis tanced by Saddleback. Wallow Crag, Falcon Crag, Ashness, Barrow, Lowdore, and all the heights to Grange, though under a ridge, somewhat even and monotonous, are nevertheless interesting in detail, particu larly if the channels of the falls are rich in wa ter, which will then sparkle on the eye, and the lake, if motionless, will double their beauties by reflection. Such sights are delectable in all seasons ; in the yellow of spring, the green of summer, or in the changeling dresses of autumn al tints. Though distant, the waters proclaim their progress to the lake, and in murmurs as various as the air that bears them : sometimes their soft J 3 60 murmurs are reduced to silence ; then, again, they dilate upon the ear, and, in diversity of undulation, swell into tones of grandeur ; but these sonorous vibrations are seldom of long du ration. They gradually melt into stillness the most profound. To a roving fancy this would seem to resemble the Hie of man. Born feeble, and unconscious, in his progress towards ma turity, he is often seen trembling on the verge of ruin, or the brink of death, but at length swelling into lusty manhood, he rises to what the thoughtless world calls greatness, and then, declining from his zenith, consummates his des* tiny by returning to his original nothingness. Attention is next claimed by the Borrowdale range of summits, Grange Fell, and Grange Crag on the left, Gate Crag, and the Knitting Hows, on the right, Castle Crag, (having at its foot, the village ot Grange ^ ribes between these side-screens, over the whole of which, swell those sublime elevations, Coom Head, Hanging Bield, and Great End. Between the Knitting Hows, and Cat Bells, are Blea Crag and Maiden Moor, on which, by an appropriate distribution of the woods rising from the w7ater, and swelling up their sides, the scenery would be very much improved, not only as observed from St. Herbert's Island, but from the lake, and from many places on its borders. The Lower Cat Bell is succeeded by Rolling End, Causey Pike, Uterside, Barrow, Swin side, and Barf, all appearing over the woods 61 at Brandelow, Water End, Silver Hill, and Foe Park. Near the head of Bassenthwaite, rises Dodd, sometimes called Skiddaw's Cub, b«ing a pro jection from that stupendous mountain. WUAtV &ritf. From St. Herbert's, the course usually pur sued, is to Water End Bay, or Derwent Bay, a pleasant line, in which the conical summits of Cat Bells are seen to great advantage over the _ruggedly embayed coast, and profuse woods, at Brandelow. On entering Water End Bay, Cat Beilsi on the south-west, and on the north-west, Causey Pike, rising over the trees, are objects of considerable interest. Water End Bay, from a semicircular sweep on the north-west, runs in two parallel lines south-east, to two grand and far out-stretching promontories, covered with fine trees. These promontories assist in forming two other bays, which, though pretty, are inferior in size and beauty to the middle bay. About twenty yards from the lake, stands Water End, before-mentioned, as an occasional residence of Lord William Gordon. This house, though spacious, is chiefly of one story ; it is elegantly fanciful, and the taste with which the whole was designed, executed, and preset ved, 62 is highly creditable to his Lordship, and to those employed by him. This singular fabric is surrounded by trees of a dignified growth, shading walks; beautifully intricate, additionally graced by ever-greens, and an abundance of flowers. A circular foot-p.ith, on the north-west of the house, adorned on each side with stately trees, merits observation, and will be found worth visiting. On the north-east side of the lake, another walk from the house leads to the end of the northern promontory, from which there is an extensive range of prospect north-east and west; but this walk, though agreeable, is less pleasing than that upon the western promontory, on which is the landing from the lake, and the way to it from the house is on a pebbled walk, on each side bordered with delightful flowers : leaving the landing on the left, the path leads to the end of a bold and rocky head-land, on the top of which, is a recess, and within it, a circular bench. This head-land has in view the half circle of mountains from Wallow Crag to Cat Bells. Still pursuing the path, it ends at another bench overlooking the bay under the Lower Cat Bell. In every direction from Water End, the pri vileged wanderer may find amusement. Should he delight in solemn gloom, he may find it, and he may, in cloudless weather, occasionally ex- 63 change it for the cheerful beams of sunshine. He may amuse himself with home views, or with others in connection with the wood-lands skirting the stony borders of the lake. Lord William Gordon, with his wonted cour tesy, allows strangers, on leave, to land and see the grounds at Water End. From Water End, the next and last place vi sited is, Strtoeut Mr. Derwent Isle was formerly called Vicar's Island. " The name seems to be derived lrom its having anciently appertained to Fountain's Abbey. After the dissolution of that religious house, with other lands, it was granted by King Henry VIII. to one John Williamson. The Ponsonbies of Hale were, till lately, pro prietors of this sweet spot." Vicar's Island was purchased, in the year 1778, for three hundred pounds, from Miles Ponsonby, Esq. of Hale, by the late Joseph Pocklington, Esq. who, the year following, built the present house, and called the island Pocklington's Island. It was sold by him to the E resent proprietor, Major-general Peachy, whe as changed its name, to Derwent Isle. 64 When General Peachy became possessed of the island, he added many trees, chiefly exotic,- to the firs and oaks, which had been planted by Mr. Pocklington. The oaks were in a separate plantation, from which they were removed, and distributed, with nursery plants, over every part of the island. These oaks, which are now stout and healthy, are said to have suffered little by being shifted, though, when moved, they were nearly twenty years old. Amongst the trees added by Mr. Peachy, were many larches. These larches, like the firs planted by Mr. Pocklington, have, from the main land, been grievous eye-sores for many years ; notwithstanding which, the General has shewn an extraordinary degree of fine taste in the management of the trees upon his island, but more with a view to local, than to distant appearances. The usual landing is a pretty place. Skid daw, here, would be part of a grand scene, could it be observed, as formerly, over the Crow Park oaks. To compensate for the loss of these, the Isthmus spriggery now serves as a middle-ground : with what effect, the discrimi nating observer will determine. The black Italian poplars/viewed from the bor ders of the lake, are rather a pleasing assemblage, and, though not equal to oak, ash, and birch trees. 65 in form or colour, are certainly better adapted for the purposes of ornament than either firs or larches. At a little distance from the landing already mentioned, just opposite the pier head, on the main shore, is another landing-place : between the two landings, stands a venerable sycamore, being the only tree (except a few thorns) grow ing on the island, when it was purchased by Mr. Pocklington. The trees, on the approach to the house, are tastefully interspersed with various sorts of laurels, and other ever-greens. The house is profusely covered with wild creepers, but it is a more agreeable object from the island than the margin of the lake. It is placed on the very summit of the hill, and, being surrounded by trees, its situation is, perhaps, not objectionable, From the upper rooms in the house, the chief of which are for entertainment, the sur rounding country is seen to very great advant age. Skiddaw, from the northern window of the drawing-room, appears a noble object, and the Borrowdale mountains, from the south end window, as well as from the lawn, are ex cellently united with the trees. Wallow Crag, with Stable Hills, (screened by Falcon Crag) and Lord's Island, form a valuable com bination. VOL. II. K 66 In all these scenes, General Peachy has availed himself of every circumstance, that could, in any way, conduce to their improve ment, by increasing, pruning, or felling his trees. On Derwent Isle, the number of firs and larches has been considerably diminished ; but, if still more reduced, — if from those points where they are now observed in connection with the best features of the lake ; the spike heads were entirely weeded from amongst the native round heads, the charms of the place, would be greatly enhanced. A walk round the island, about a dozen yards from the lake ; as a security against the howl ing tempest ; is, on the north, west, and north west, wholly shut out from the mountains. Such occasional obscurity is excellently adapted to give value to approaching beauties, which are generally appreciated in proportion to the facility or the difficultywith which they are acquired. The varieties produced by the different spe cies of foliage, presented in this circuitous pe rambulation, is the source of infinite delight ; and this is additionally valuable, from the bold ness of its contrast with the surrounding eleva tions : but, Derwent Isle, though rich in its present associations, may, under the excellent conduct of the proprietor, be eventually distin guished by beauties of a much higher class than it can boast at present. Strangers requesting it, are obligingly accom modated with leave to walk round the island. 67 On the fifth of November, 1817, the writer, in company with Mr. Thomas Hutton, set out from Keswick, with the intention of navigating Derwent Water. We landed on Derwent Isle, and, in the re-examination of its features, I was courteously assisted by General Peachy. While upon the island, a brisk gale from the south west presented the appearance of such opposing surges, that it was thought prudent to return ; but we resumed our undertakingon the following morning. Arriving at the lake, its waters re flected the canopy of heaven as in one vast magnificent mirror. From the landing place, we passed between Derwent Isle and Friar Cragi to St. Herbert's Island. The trees on Derwent Isle exhibited all the co lours of summer, as well as those of the waning year, and, though without a ripple or bubble, or the slightest appearance of foam, the water un der the island was agitated into extensive, but easy swells, in which the trees were reflected, not only perpendicularly, but in various de grees of obliquity, so as to produce the most agreeable surprise. About half way between Derwent and St. Herbert's islands, these undulations ceased,— all was delightfully calm, and the images of the surrounding beauties were pleasantly contrasted in fascinating repose, with the graceful agita tion just described. K 2 6S On such appearances, Mr. Gilpin has ex pressed himself in a language most happily adapted to the subject. " If an artificial mirror, a few inches long, placed opposite to a door, or a window, pro duces often very pleasing reflections, how no ble must be the appearance, when the area of many leagues in circumference, is formed into one vast mirror; and this mirror surrounded by a combination of great and beautiful objects ? The majestic repose of so grand, so solemn, and splendid a scene, raises in the mind a sort of enthusiastic calm, which spreads a mild com placence over the breast,— a tranquil pause of mental operation, which may be felt, but not described. " Soothing- each gust of passion into peace ; All but the swellings of the softened heart; That weaken, not disturb, the tranquil mind." " When the mind has a little recovered its tone from the general impression of such a scene, it feels a new pleasure in examining, more minutely, the several picturesque ingre dients which produced if, — the stillness and purity of the air, — the strong lights and shades, — the tints upon the mountains, — the polish of the lake, — and above all, the reflection display ed upon its bosom, when" Into a liquid plain, it stands unmov'd, Pure as the expanse of Heaven, spread And, th the fringed banks, with osiers crewn'd Its chrystal mirror holds." 69 Except for the loss sustained by our being above the surface of the water, the image was a true and complete inverted copy of the reality, but the partition of the substance and its watery mimic without a reference to forms, was scarce ly perceptible, even to a painter's eye ; and na ture, as if determined to give a finish to the exhibition, presented an equal quantity of cloud and azure, so well distributed, that the majestic Skiddaw, and his surrounding vassals, were, in turns doubly displayed, under the happiest ef fects of light and shadow. The part of the lake, passing from Brandelow to Manesty, is broken into deep, bold, and rocky bays, on which stood trees in all the graceful wildness of untutored nature, — every bay, and every creek furnishing some pretty opening through out-stretching woods, to the distant country. Skiddaw, Saddleback, Wal low Crag, Falcon Crag, and Lowdore, all in turns, are offered as distances. In places beau tiful, in others highly picturesque, these bays presented a varied elegance unequalled by any others round the lake. Not a tree remains — all is barrenness and sterility. Of many views made from this neighbourhood, only four or five now remain in the writer's portfolio, but these suffice but too well to contrast the riches of a former period with the poverty of the present. From Manesty we rowed along Bank Park, to the river Derwent. 70 On Bank Park, a few old shattered oaks, be longing to Mr. Pocklington, raise their venerable heads. If that gentleman would add other trees, enclose them in stout fences, and carefully su perintend their growth, that part of the lake would profit greatly by it, and the liberal pro prietor be eventually remunerated. On passing up the river Derwent, Mr. Hut- ton pointed out a singular effect, produced by the rocks beyond the chasm of Lowdore, which, from one place (the waters being still calm) re flected a semicircle, but the objects causing that semicircle bore little resemblance to an arch ;— from the surface of the water the effect had been a true inverted copy of the cause- The variegated bottom of the lake, to a great depth, was displayed through the limpid waters, which still serenely doubled the surrounding beauties : perfect heaven, and perfect earth were above ; and below the glassy plane on which we glided. We touched at Ramp's Holm, disfigured like the other islands, by lumpish woods. Many of the trees are oak ; some of them fir, the black ness of which has a most unseemly effect. These firs ought wholly to be removed, and the other trees reduced in number, to make the island beautiful. From Ramp's Holm, we proceeded to Lord's Island. 71 After the heiress of the house of De Derwent water married into the family of Radcliffe, the seat was removed to Dilston, in Northumber land, and out of the stones of the ancient Castle on Castlerigg, was erected a house for summer's residence on Lord's Island. The Histories of Cumberland, by Dr. Burn, and Mr. Hutchinson, do not mention the time when Lord's Island, as a seat, was abandoned by the Radcliffe family. One thing is certain, that the last Lord Derwentwater, not long be fore his death, was frequently at Keswick, but, it is not equally certain, that he then (as is af firmed by some) inhabited the house upon the island ; on the contrary, it rather seems that his being at Keswick, was only on visits from his family place at Dilston. A remarkable instance of longevity occurred, in addition to those which have been already noticed, in the case of Mrs. Wilson, mother to Mrs. Cockin, of Keswick, who died eleven years ago, aged one hundred and two. She had been a servant in the Stephenson family upwards of seventy years. The late Governor Stephenson was born in Keswick, in the year 1696, he died in 1768, aged seventy-two. When but fifteen years old, in the year 1711, he wrote a latin poem, de scriptive of Keswick and its environs; this poem he likewise translated into English. The original, in his hand writing, is now in London, 72 Of the above poem, the following lines are re collected by Mrs. Cockin. " There is an isle beset with waters round, Where stood a house which now lies on the ground. Lord Derwentwater was beheaded in 1716 ; and, it appears, from the above lines, that the house upon the island was prostrate in the year 1711, five years before his death. Mr. Otley, of Keswick, is in possession of a deed executed in the year 1623, in which Sir Edward Radcliffe, Bart, then of Lord's Island, and his two brothers, living in Keswick, en franchised certain lands to Francis Heckstetter, Gent, of Keswick, one of the Germans who worked at the Newland's mines. By this deed, it appears, that Lord's island was, at that pe riod, inhabited by the Radcliffes ; and we have reasonable grounds for thinking the family might be there considerably after that time. In the year 1769, in Strand's Hagg, a field adjoining Friar Crag, were discovered a num ber of shillings and sixpences of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and, in the following year, many half-crowns of the first Charles. Probably these coins were buried after the reign of that ill-fated monarch, by the Radcliffes, then, occa sionally resident upon the island, and, perhaps, not more than sixty years before the Earl of Derwentwater lost his life. Mrs. Cockin was well acquainted with three females, who lived with their father and mother, 73 in that part of the Royal Oak, which was anciently tire Bull's Head, an inn belonging to the Earl of Derwentwater, and frequented by him, when he visited Keswick. These old la dies used to recount many particulars concern ing their noble visitor ; and his amiable dispo sition was not unfrequently mentioned. By one of them, Mrs. Wren, of Hill Top, who attended him, when he was last at Penrith, he was supposed not to have been sincerely attach ed to the cause in which he had embarked. He was found musing in the garden of the inn, from which, it is thought, by some, he had meant to escape. He was, however, conducted from the garden to the house, and closely watched by his party, to whose temerity he for feited his life. While on the island, Mr. Hutton told me that he knew the late Mr. John Grave, a per son possessed of many particulars concerning the Derwentwater family. This person was father to Mr. Stephen Grave, who, till disabled by age, was guide to the Queen's Head Inn, in Keswick. Stephen Grave says, his father, when he was eleven years old; on a Castlerigg boun dary riding, had occasional charge of the Earl of Derwentwater's horse. John Grave died in the year 1792, aged eighty-nine, which places his birth in 1703, to which, if eleven be added, it will make 1714, the year before the rebellion. VOL. 11. L 74 Messrs. Grave and Hutton, say, that Johtl Grave had frequently mentioned his having shaved Lord Derwentwater; biit, if so* he must have been a young shaver, for he was only thir teen when that unfortunate nobleman was be headed. A fine eugraving, by Vertue, of the Earl of Derwentwater, from a painting by Sir Godfrey Kneller, may be seen at Mr. Hutton's museum. —This portrait was published in 1714. Mr. Stephen Grave is now seventy-eight, but he has ceased to act as guide, since 1815, in which year he rode to Wast Water ; an ex traordinary two days journey for a man so ad vanced in life. When seventy-two, he went three times to the top of Skiddaw in one day, twice on foot, and once on horseback. Two of his sons have succeeded him as guides, to the Queen's Head Inn. Mr. Hutton, who is the principal guide to the Royal Oak, is seventy-three years of age, and is still very active, either by land or water. He has been a guide to the mountains upwards of fifty years. These particulars respecting the guides, though, by some they may be thought unneces sary, will perhaps be not wholly without inte rest. The frequent instances of vigorous old age to be met with among the men who have 75 passed the greatest portion of their lives in these parts, are sufficient to prove, that they possess some charms exclusive of those une qualled beauties, which it is the object of this work to describe. Specimens of the coins found at the Strand's Hagg, may be seen at the museums belonging to Mr. Crosthwaite, and Mr. Hutton. With the stones carried from the house in Lord's Island, sometime about the year 1700, was erected the late Town Hall, in Keswick. It was executed under the surveyorship of the father of the late Governor Stephenson. The grandfather of Mr. Birkett, of Portin scale, was born in 1683, and worked as a join-. er's apprentice, at the above Town Hall. Mrs. Cockin recollects of this (then new) Hall, from Governor Stephenson's poem, " A large Town Hall, which doth this borough grace, A Hall, the glory of this pretty place." Little except the foundation remains of the old house on Lord's Island ; but the vestiges of the pier, or abutment belonging to the ancient draw-bridge opposite Stable Hills, are consi derable. The shooting buts, almost buried in brambles, might be easily restored. Lord's Island is now so overgrown, as to ex hibit, at a distance, a seemingly impenetrable l 2 mass of wood. The trees, are of many kinds, and chiefly well grown, — the principal are beech and sycamore. The beeches, with their grand, though smooth, and cheerfully hued trunks, are the largest; but the spriggy branches and leafage of the beech, though not unpleasant, when overhanging, are ill adapted as society for other foliage, when viewed from a distance. Beeches ought to stand unconnected with other trees. The sycamore is a majestic tree, but its co lour is somewhat too sombre for general com position; it is, however, happily accommodated, as a back-ground to antiquated buildings. With all its varied materials, to what a su perb object, might not Lord's Island be restor ed; were that done, which might be accomplish ed, it could not but be highly appreciated, for its intricate labyrinths, local combinations, dis tant prospects, and exquisite beauty, when view ed from a distance. From Lord's Island, we passed Friar Crag, to the landing place. Much has been said, and much extracted from others, by Mr. Hutchinson, in his history of Cumberland, concerningDerwent Water. His own original matter is, at least, equal to any thing that he has quoted fiom others, and no apology will be necessary for introducing his moon light voyage here. J I "The romantic scenes upon the lake, induced us to take a boat at night, under favour of the moon, which was near the full. We began our voyage soon after the moon was risen, and had illuminated the top of Skiddaw, but, from the intercepting mountains, had not, within the ascent of an hour, reached the lake : we were btirrounded with a solemn gloom: the stillness of the evening rendered the voice of the water falls tremendous, as they, in all their variety of sounds, were re-echoed from every cavern. The summits of the rocks, when they began to re ceive the rising rays, appeared as if crowned with turrets of silver, from which the stars de parted from their nightly round. As the gloom below grew deeper, objects around us seemed to rise to view, as surging on the first morning from chaos. The water was a plain of sable, studded over with gems, reflected from the starry firmament ; the groves, which hung upon the feet of the mountains were wrapt in darkness,— all below was one grave and majestic circle of shadow. " Till the moon, Rising in cloudy majesty, at length, Apparent queen, UDveil'd her peerless light. And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw." " When the long protracted shades of the mountains cast on the bosom of the lake shewed the vastness of those masses from whence they proceeded; and still as the moon arose higher in the horizon, the distant objects began to be more illuminated, and the whole presented us 78 with a noble moon-light piece, delicately touch ed by the hand of nature, and far surpassing those humble scenes, which we had often view ed in the works of the Flemish painters. " Mists began to arise on the lake, and, by reason of the air which bore them aloft, being confined, and eddying within this deep circle, they were whirled round, and carried upwards like a column, which, so soon as it approached the rays of the moon, had a most wonderful ap pearance, and resembled a pillar of light. " I recollect, that Maupertuis describing the lake and mountain of Niemi, in Lapland, speaks of a phenomenon of the like nature, which the people called Haltios, and which they esteemed to be the guardian spirits of the place. Be these as they might, we may venture to assert, no druid, no St. Herbert, no genius, had a more glorious ascension. " The moons mild beams now glistened on the waters, and touched the groves, the cliffs, and islands with a meekness of colouring which add ed to the solemnity of the night ; and these noble and romantic objects struck us with reverence, and inspired the mind with pious sentiments and ejaculations. It was observable, that by day we were incessantly communicating our raptures and surprise on each new wonder that opened to our view ; we now enjoyed them in silence. " Every bay and promontory assumed an appearance different to what it had by day light. 79 The little dells which wind round the feet of the mountains, as they were shadowed by inter posing objects, or silvered by the moon, afforded most enchanting scenes, where we could have wandered long with delight. " Where the lake narrows and runs up into a creek, towards Borrowdale, the rocks looked tre mendous, almost shutting us in from the face of heaven, the cliffs were struck with scanty gleams of light, which gained their passage through the interstices of the hills, or chasms in the rocks, and served only to discover their horrible over hanging fronts, their mighty caverns, where the water, struck by our oars, made a hollow sound; their deformed and frowning brows, the hanging shrubs with which they were bearded, their sparkling water-falls, that trilled from shelf to shelf, the whole half seen, and half con cealed, leaving imagination at large to magnify the images of their grandeur, and stupendous magnificence. The opening of the vale of New- lands was particularly beautiful." Croto $arft. Crow Park is bounded on the south, and in high floods, on the west, and in still higher floods, on the north, by Derwent Water ; but, in low water, by the flat lands on the west which se parate it from Isthmus, and on the north by a flat meadow joining the field called the Heads. It is enclosed on the east by the road from the 80 town, to the place where the pleasure-boats are moored. As if, for the accommodation of strangers, •* the race-course on Crow Park, made last year, is of an elevation, nicely calculated for a display, in a series of combinations, those objects which, from the crown of the hill, are given in a fine panorama of the surrounding country. Mr. Gray says, " October 4, 1769, I walked to Crow Park, now a rough pasture, once a glade of ancient oaks, whose large roots still remain, in the ground, but nothing has sprung from them," — they are all now grubbed. " If one single tree had remained, this had been an unpa ralleled spot, and Smith judged right, when he took his print of the lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, not too high." asmrrotoftalt, from CroU) ^aiJt. One of the several excellent views from Crow Park, is that, which has, for its distance, the Borrowdale mountains. This scene is fine from the top of the hill, but better one third from that top towards the lake, and in such a direc tion as to discover water between Derwent Isle and St, Herbert's Island. On the right, Derwent Isle, with its house, over which are Gate Crag, Knitting Howsy J31ea Crag, and Manesty Side are seen stretching up 81 toward Maideri Moor. Over Cock shot, and the woods at the landing places, bordering the lake, are Falcon Crag, and all the rugged tops, from Ashness to Grange Fell, including the portal of Watenlath, with the High Raise, seen through it. After rainy Weather, the waters of Lowdore here form a part of the view ; and, in dry weather, the chasm through which they have fled. On the right of Lowdore, is Hollow Stone Crag, and en the left, Thrang Crag. St. Herbert's.is an agreeable remove from Derwent Isle ; beyond which, and over the, middle of the lake, may be observed, Grange Crag, Grange Fell, and Castle Crag, finely back -ground ed by the high summits of Coom Head, Glara mara, the How, Great End, and Hanging Knott. This is No. 32, of the large etchings, But, this prospect, so full of feature, is better adapted to gratify the eye, in nature, than in a picture. The mountains at Grange, and those far removed beyond them, in almost all atmo spheres, and effects, from their varied distances, and contrasted forms, pleasure the imagination; and the eye, on contemplating these beauties over a rich expanse of water, between gay and animated side-grounds, dwells not on, — per ceives not, the poverty of certain parts of the visible horizon seen above Friar Crag, on the left. TMs view, towards Borrowdale, is more painter-like, when observed so near the lake, that the trees upon the left obscure the moun- VOL. II. M 82 tains beyond them, and thereby render more compact the distant and most pleasing features of the scene. Wfyt Netolanfcs iHmmtams, from Croto $arft- Over that part of the lake lying between Derwent Isle and the south end of Isthmus, is presented, in a good combination, the New- land's mountains, having on the left, Cat Bells, and on the right, Rolling End, and Causey Pike ; and, in the opening that divides them, Robinson, and High Stile, the former rising from the eastern, and the latter from the west ern side of Buttermere : between the Higher and the Lower Cat Bells, just peeps the top of Hindsgarth. The above objects are good from the top of Crow Park, and from several points between that place and the lake. Cat 33rlte, from Croto $arfc. A little north of the above line, pursuing the racecourse, and perhaps, best, from a lower stand than the last subject, is a view of the sin gularly formed mountains, called the Cat Bells. seen between Derwent Isle and Isthmus. 83 brteiftalt Pfee, front Croto $ar&. Over the lower end of the lake, having the north end of Isthmus on the left, is displayed a scene of much beauty and grandeur. Derwent Bank, Pigmy Hall, Hedge Grove, Little Braith waite, and other buildings may be discerned, partially hidden by trees, which, from the wa ter's edge, are scattered over gentle eminences, in a disorderly prettiness. Above Foe Park, and Derwent Bank, rise Swinside, and Barrow ; and, towering over the whole, to an elegant apex, Grisedale Pike. Jtaenifttoaite Mater, from Croto $arfe. Little of Bassenthwaite Water can be seen from Crow Park. The best view towards it is from the highest ground, where, on the left is Derwent Hill, with Barf beyond it ; and, on the other side, Crosthwaite Church, just obscuring Lyzick, with the agreeably lined Dodd, rising over them. At the end of the flat valley, in a narrow stripe, is seen the lake, and the easy swelling hills, which, in remote distance, grace the foot of the lake. On the right of the above, are Dove Coat, the Vicarage, and New Hall, with Skiddaw, and Under Skiddaw beyond them. Just over the m 2 84 fields, called the Heads, is Greta Hall, which is under'the intersection of Skiddaw, and Lon- scale Fell. mestowfe, from Croia $arit. The Heads hide the Whitehaven end of Kes wick ; but, the Ambleside end, and the town's steeple are in view with Latrigg, and Saddle back in distance. Caetltrtss, from Crete $arfe. A long sketch of the cultivated part of Castle rigg appears over the pleasantly planted, and here, pretty-looking houses at Brow Top, and likewise over Castle Head, having a fine lined distance, composed of Great Dodd, and Wan thwaite Crags. On the right of Castlerigg, but nearer the eye, is Cock shot, before-mentioned. Wallow Crag is beyond it. Mr. Hutchinson, in his history of Cumberland, says, " Among other amusements lately intro duced at Keswick, was the regatta, and the sports at Pocklington's Island. " We cannot present the reader with a more proper description of those diversions, than 85 what appeared in the Cumberland Pacquet, in the year 1782, of the regatta, of the sixth of September, in that year. " At eight o'clock in the morning, a vast concourse of ladies and gentlemen, appeared on the side of Derwent Lake, where a number of marquees, extending about four hundred yards, were erected for their accommodation. At; twelve, such of the company as were invited, by Mr. Pocklington, passed over, in boats, to the island which bears his name, and on their landing were saluted by a discharge of his artillery. This) might be called the opening of the regatta ; for, as soon as the echo of this discharge had ceased, a signal gun was fired; and five boats, which lay upon their oars, (on that part of the water which runs the nearest the town of Keswick) instantly pushed off the shore, and began the race. The sides of the hoary mountains were clad with spectators, and the glassy surface of the lake, was variegated with numbers of pleasure bargesj which, tricked out in all the gayest colours, and glittering in the rays of a meridian sun, gave a new appearance to the celebrated beauties of this matchless vale. " The contending boasts passed Pocklington's Island, and rounding St. Herbert's, and Ramp's Holm, edged down by the outside of Lord's Island, describing in the race, almost a perfect circle, and, during the greatest part of it in full view of the company." S6 " About three o'clock, preparations were made for the sham attack on Pocklington-'^ Island. The fleet, consisting of several barges, armed with small cannon, and musquets, re tired out of view, behind Friar Crag, to prepare for action ; previous to which, a flag of truce was sent to the governor, with a summons to surrender, upon honourable terms. A defiance was returned ; soon after which, the fleet was seen advancing, with great spirit, before the batteries, and instantly formed a curved line ; a terrible cannonading began on both sides, ac companied with a dreadful discharge of mus- quetry, This continued for some time, and, be ing echoed from hill to hill, in an amazing va riety of sounds, filled the ear with whatever could produce astonishment and awe. All na ture seemed to be in an uproar, which impress ed on the awakened imagination, the most lively ideas of the " war of elements," and " the_crush of worlds." After a severe conflict, the enemies were driven from their attack, in great disorder. A Jeu-de-joye was then fired, in the fort, and often repeated by the responsive echoes. " The fleet, after a little delays formed again, and, practising a variety of beautiful manoeuvres, renewed the attack. Uproar again sprung up, and the deep toned echoes of the mountains again joined in solemn chorus, which was heard at the distance of ten leagues to leeward, through the easterly opening of that vast am phitheatre, as far as Appleby. 87 " The garrison at length capitulated, and the entertainment of the water being finished, (towards the evening) the company moved to Keswick ; to which place, from the water's edge, a range of lamps was fixed, very happily disposed, and a number ot fire-works played off. An assembly-room, (which was built for the purpose,) next received the ladies and gentlemen, and a dance concluded their annual festivity. A chain of amusements, which, we may venture to assert, no other place can possi bly furnish, and which wants only to be more universally known to render it a place of more general resort than any in the kingdom. " To those whom nature's works alone can charm, this spot will, at all times, be viewed with rapture and astonishment ; but, no breast, however unsusceptible of pleasure, can be in different to that display of every beauty which decks the vale of Keswick on a regatta day." These regattas were amusements annually, from the year 1781, to 1791. In 1809, they were revived, though, perhaps, with less splendour than those of former times. But, in the recent sports, the boat races, like those above-mentioned, have generally com menced at the Steward's boat, near Crow Park, returning to the same place, after a circuit round St, Herbert's, Ramp's Holm, and Lord's Island. Others equally amusing have taken place, one on the plan sometimes practised, with horses and asses, in which the slowest is the ss winner; each, and every candidate for fame and fortune, managing his neighbour's animal or boat. The spectators have this ludicrous recreation in view the whole of the race, which is in length about a mile, being round the Steward's boat, and Ling Holm. But the water races have not been exclusive ly for boats, men have created fun, by plunging and blundering from the land, round poles, planted in the water. Running, or rather jumping in sacks, is an other of the diversions, sometimes resorted to here. The horse races commence about one, and often produce excellent sport. The ladies having retired, the labours of the day are concluded with the athletic exercise of of wrestling, in which the muscular strength and dexterity of Cumberland and Westmorland are exhibited, in many sturdily con tested rounds. Few places in England furnieh such rare as semblages of female beauty as the regattas, at Keswick; and the charms of the fair visitors are generally heightened by countenances indi cative of good sense, and good nature. These amusements, which usually take place about the end of August, continue the greatest part of two succeeding days. They are numer ously attended by the gentry and yeomanry, 89 from the neighbouring country, and by the greatest part of the population of Keswick. On the first day, the sport being finished, the gentlemen, in the evening, retire to a sumptu ous dinner, at the Royal Oak, where mirth and melody are rarely found wanting, and Bacchus, and the yellow haired god, receive equal homage from the votaries of pleasure. At the Royal Oak, upon the second day, there is a gay and animated ball. Last year, four of the family of Banks, the father, two sons, and a grandson, assisted as musicians. The old man gave great effect to the violins, by his judicious management of the violincello, even till three o'clock in the morning, though he was then se venty-four years of age. The Steward's elect being gentlemen of spi rit, much is expected from the intended amuse ments of the present year. Kstljmusf, Isthmus consists of two easy eminences, which are profusely spread over with wood. It lies about two or three hundred yards west of Crow Park, from which it is separated by a level piece of ground, but connected by a road, ele vated above it. After much rain, Isthmus is an island; the connecting road, and the flat on each side of , it, being completely covered with water. VOL. II. n 90 To render to Derwent Water beauties it may rarely have possessed, would demand an extra ordinary degree of attention to the land on its borders. This, however, might be accomplish ed; first, by calling forth all the hidden trea sures of its picturesque localities, which would require the surfaces of the rocks to be enlarged, and executed, by detaching from them all those unsightly trees, shrubs, and plants, with which they are at present encumbered, aud to en courage all such other shrubs and plants, as would, even now, aid, and might eventualy display those rocks to the greatest possible ad vantage. All the avenues to them, and to the rocks seen beyond them, by a well consider ed, and tasteful reduction of the trees, might be brought into compositions, grand, solemn, and peculiarly interesting. Derwent Water presents a variety of extra ordinary pictures ; which, however, in its present state, are more captivating to the untutored, than to the tutored eye. Many of the mountains round Derwent Wa ter, being less finely formed than those on other English lakes, naturally require, for their hap piest exhibition, an especial attention to near objects ; particularly trees and rocks. The lat ter cannot be removed, but they may be so as sociated with the distances as to produce agree able combinations with the aid of wood, of which, enough even now remains, as under proper management, to give to the lake a new- character, 91 Unpleasant arrangements of mountains, by the aid of trees, might be broken into parts* deformities obscured, and the best forms given through elegantly composed fore and middle- grounds. > That* in this opinion,' the writer does, not stand alone, will be seen from the following lines, which appear in Mr. Knight's elegant poem of " the Landscape." " With equal reaspn,.Keswicls's favoured pool Is made the theme of every wondering fool; With bpgs and barrenness here compass'd round, ; % With square enclosures there, and fallowed ground ; O'er its deep waves no promontories towfir, No lofty trees,, high over-arch'd embower, No winding creek, or solitary bay 'Midst pendant rocks, or woods, is seen to stray, But small prim stands, with blue fir trees crown'd, Spread their cool shadows regularly round ; Whilst over all, vast crumbling mountains rise, Mean in their forms, though oi gigantic size." Mr. Gilpin speaks thus of Derwent Water. " In the first place, its form, which, in appear ance, is circular, is less interesting, I think, than the winding sweep of Windermere, andsome other lakes, which, losing themselves in vast reaches, behind some cape or promontory, add to their Other beauties, the varieties of distance and perspective. Some people object to this as touching rather on the' character of the river. But does that injure its beauty ? and, yet I be- n 2 92 lieve, that there are very few rivers which form such reaches as those of Windermere. " To the formality of its shores, may be add ed the formality of its islands. They are round, regular, and similar spots, as they appear from most points of view ; formal in their situation as well as in their shape, and of little advantage to the scene. The islands of Windermere are, in themselves, better shaped, more varied, and, uniting together, add beauty, contrast, and a peculiar feature to the whole." " But, among the greatest objections to this lake, is the abrupt and broken lines in several of the mountains, which compose its' screens, (especially on the ¦western, and part of the southern shore) Which is more remarkable, than on any of the other lakes. We have little of the easy sweep of a mountain line ; at least, the eye is hurt with too many tops of mountains, which injure the ideas of simplicity and grandeur. Great care, there fore, should be taken, in selecting views of this lake. If there is a littleness even among the grand ideas of the original, what can we expect from representations on paper or canvass ? I have seen some views of this lake injudiciously chosen, or taken on too extensive a scale, irt which the mountains appear like hay-cocks. J would be understood, however, to speak chiefly of the appearance which the lines of these mountains occasionally make. TVhfn we change our point of 'view, the mountain line clianges also, and may be beautiful in one point, though it is displeasing /;* another." 93 One to whom the wilds of nature are new, surveys* the environs of Derwent Water with rapture ; but, if asked why ? he finds it difficult to give a reasonable answer ; for, not being ac customed to.annalyze, he dwells upon the plea sures produced by the whole, without attending to the deformities of parts. The charms of this lake are owing chiefly to the variety in the forms and distances of the surrounding moun tains, and to the gaps, or portals, through which more distant mountains are observed; all which, at every step (but particularly in a progress round the lake) present a succession of the per spective aerial so delusive as not unfrequently to call forth unqualified admiration, where judg ment and criticism ought not to be laid aside. That diminutive stands of " prim blue fir trees" should be substituted in place of those lofty lords of the forest, which were wont to " over-arch the winding creek and solitary bay," is much to be deplored. Every folly has its day. Since Mr. Knight wrote his poem, in place of these prim stands, there have been in troduced standing prim ; millions of larches, still more offensive than the fir trees. At their full growth, larches and firs, when viewed individually, excite considerable interest. Firs having rounder tops than larches, are grand accompaniments to ancient buildings ; but, larches, from their spiky heads, are ill adapted either for front or back-grounds to any object. In composition, the larch is more difficult to 01 manage than any other sort of tree. Its barbed top should never appear above the visible horizon ; and, whether for near or distant scenery, the trees immediately beyond them, ought to be such as present a full and massy foliage. In the vale of Keswick, there is scarcely a more conspicuous piece of land than Isthmus, which, though at present a heavy lump of wood, is capable, at one cutting, of being greatly im proved, and, in a year or two, it might become a strikingly interesting feature, from all the ele vated dwellings near the lake. It is planted with- several sorts of trees, but the larches far out-number and out-top the others. Many of the trees are. oak, some of which were planted with the larches, others, and those not a few, are rendered grand jby age. A better taste could, in no part of the hospital estate be intro duced, than on Isthmus, where, for years, the larches have most ungraciously obtruded them selves upon the eye : — in all such prominent situations, as Isthmus, or, wherever there is a regard for beauty, larches ought to be exter minated, and never again planted. Any hilly country, consisting alternately of extensive plots of treeless cultivation, and im pervious woods, can never gratify that mind which looks around for tasteful distribution. Such plots' as the former, are Crow Park, and the neighbouring fields; the whole denuded space at Castleriggj and the cultivated en- 95 closures at Stable Hills: of the latter, are Isth- miis, Cock shot, Friar Crag, St. Herbert's Island, the Water End woods, Lord's Island, Castle Head, and Water Edge Bank, Either for near or distant observations, such vast masses of wood environed by bare fields;, would deform or ruin the finest forms in the creation. But in this district, where ill-shapen mountains want obscuring, and where from all moderate elevations, they might be either wholly, or in part, obscured ; well-formed mountains, aided, assisted, and combined with fore and middle- grounds, is it not painful tp see, in point of taste, the most illiberal management. This management, which, though excellent in an agricultural point of view, and as such, highly to be applauded, is ill adapted to the valley in which it is practised., a yalley, which, though at present much inferior to those of Ambleside and Patlerdale, has, for a display of infinitely varied charms, greater capabilities than any other in the north of England. Whether native or exotic, every stately and picturesque tree on Isthmus, or, indeed, every tree that has the promise ;pf being such, (at least for the present) ough/t, to be preserved. This feeling for local would little endanger dis tant beauty. When the trees on Isthmus are called in aid of the circumjacent mountains, a walk to Isth mus will be considered as one of the most re creative in the neighbourhood of Keswick. 96 The woods on Isthmus require to be broken into assemblages of every tasteful and possible variety; the principal to stand upon, or near the summits of 'the hills, with occasional scat terings, single trees, treeless spaces, and lesser groupings, all the way to the margin of the sur rounding level. All these groupings to be composed of the oaks, and other round heads, some of which being aged, and others of a pro mising growth, when ridded of their aspiring neighbours, would present, from the high lands, about the foot of the lake, a quantity of new and particularly interesting scenery. Should any of the larches on Isthmus be suf fered to remain, they ought to be such, as while producing local variety, would be no impedi ment to the distant features of the country. One tasteful group of larches, at the bottom of the northern, or greater hill, would act in agree able diversity to the charming scenes presented to the pedestrian on his excursion to that place, which, though now presenting a mass so un gracious, that nothing can be seen out of it, would, when improved, materially assist in adding a new character to Derwent Water, Mr. Gilpin says, " the eye is hurt with too many tops of mountains," which, though for the reasons already assigned, are fine in nature, when " injudiciouly chosen, or taken on too extensive a scale, appear like hay cocks." 97 Of all the English lakes, whether large or small, there is not one whose parts are with such difficulty rendered into wholes as Derwent Water ; and the drawings and paintings of the mountains of Borrowdale and Newlands, as seen in composition with that lake, without the nicest attention to quantity, fore-ground, colour, and effect, display invariably somewhat of the hay-c6ck appearance ; to remedy which, the near-grounds offer no assistance, and 'the dis- gusted artist retreats from the expanded views on Derwent Water to the more confined scenes in Borrowdale and Buttermere. Latterly, the vales of Ambleside, Langdale, and Patterdale, with the adjoining lakes, have been found richer in portT folio subjects than the environs of Keswick. Keswick was formerly considered, and may, at some future period, be considered as possessing greater attractions than any other high land district in the north of England. Sertocnt Skater, from Cagtlrrftjft, Ko. Chirtjj-stx. This scene is from a field near the village of Castlerigg: its principal distant feature is Grise- dale Pike ; but Causey Pike appears on the left, and beyorid it 111 Crags arid Grasinire : under the above mountains are Barrow ahd Swinside, with Foe Park, and Derwent Bank, bordering the lake, which is here shown in two vol. n. o 98 parts, by the intervention of Castle Head, whose wooded top is seen just over the trees. ©erfotnt Skater, from isthmus. :tfo* ©fjirtii-sebcn. The angular bay at the union of the Isthmus Hills, presents the scene here given ; which is of Derwent Isle on the right, and beyond it, Friar Crag, cut off on the left, by oaks growing on the lesser Isthmus. Over the whole, rise Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag, with Bleaberry Fell beyond them. Stertoent abater, from 2$arrom Common. $o. tEfttrtj^-tttrht. Barrow Common is scarcely two miles from Keswick, and this is the first presentation of the Borrowdale mountains, after having passed the gate. J^aotfcoacft, from 39trtoent SSIattr. $o. CLhtrtu-ninf. One of the bays on the deeply indented coast at Manesty, with the trees then standing, fur nished the near-ground to the large sketch from which the view has been reduced. The 99 entrance upon Barrow Common, (No. 38) may be observed, with the woods at Water Edge Bank, and Wallow Crag, (though not its steep est part) rising above them : extending from the borders of the lake, a portion of Castlerigg is distanced by Saddleback. fttrtontt Skater, from Cagtlt Crap;* $o. tforti). The valley lying on the western side of the river Derwent, between Castle Crag and Gate Crag, is rich in scenes of grandeur, even supe rior to those near Bowder Stone, upon its eastern side. This view is out of the road, leading from the Rigg Head slate quarry, on Scadale, to the village of Grange, having on the left, the foot of Gate Crag, and on the right, part of Castle Crag. Skiddaw, seen at a great distance, towers grandly beyond the lake. 33n*tornt Water, tafem nrar JlprmfcTino; Cam. $o. ;Jfort|)--oitf. Sprinkling Tarn has been before mentioned, as the source of the Derwent ; but this view, though taken a short distance from Sprinkling Tarn, is from a point near the top of the chasm, down which the waters run to Stockley Bridge. On the left, appears the high land separating Borrowdale from Buttermere, and on the right, o 2 100- the bases of some of the Borrowdale mountains; in the centre, though of itself a considerable elevation, is Castle Crag, here sunk, in compari son with the neighbouring heights. Over Castle Crag is seen the lake, and the rising ground" about Keswick and Castlerigg, with Skiddaw in distance. #rtar Crag, Friar Crag is the grand promenade of the natives, and the place tp which all strangers are directed, on their arrival in Keswick. The way from the town to Friar Crag, is by the Little Hills, to the road passing on the right Crow Park, and on the left, Cock, shot; thence by a field, called Strand's Hagg, to the last of the navigating piers, which is that used by General Peachy, for a passage to his house on Derwent Isle. A grove of oaks and birches separates the Strand from the Hagg, and hides the lake and mountains, which are, however, in full view from the pier belonging to the island. Grange Crag, Grange Fell, Castle Crag, and Gate Crag, in well associated lines, appear be tween the southern extremity of Friar Crag and St. Herbert's Island, ai;d, on the right, bounded on the north by Derwent Isle, Maiden- Moor, and Cat Eells, Derwent Isle is, from this quay, an imposing object, the otherwise straight lined uniformity 101 of which is well relieved byr the aspiring black Italian poplars, and the whole might be render ed into a pleasing assemblage, if weeded of those ungracious upstarts, hiding the fells of Buttermere, which would then be seen through the vista, formed by the lower Cat Bell, Roll ing End, and other Newlands' elevations. The firs upon the island are here less unpleasing than the larches. The form and whiteness of the house, called Derwent Bank, is ill calculat ed for the prominence of its situation : here, it is presented between Derwent Isle and Isthmus, whose trees, in close array, exhibit a phalanx of halberds. If not altered in its form, a change in the colouring of Derwent Bank is indispen sable ; and the tint and tone ought to be such as would least of all attract the eye : receding from the lake, are the Foe Park woods, and Grisedale Pjke ; and beyond Derwent Bank, the road over Whinlatter to Whitehaven. On the right of Isthmus is Derwent Hill, having on each side Barf and Dodd, and in distance the cultivated banks of Bassenthwaite. North of the Spectator, in majestic grandeur, stands Skiddaw, and below it, on the margin of the lake, in green, but treeless breadth, Crow Park. The lake, spotted with boats, is screened on the east by the woods of Cock shot and Strand's Hagg. Adjoining the piers is the northern end of Friar Crag; to the southern extremity of which, the walk is amidst a grove of oak and fir trees.- This path, through the wood to the resting bench at, the end of it, is creditable to the governors of 102 the hospital, who have thereby not only afforded to strangers an easy and an amusing avenue to surrounding beauties, but a renovating recrea tion to the'inhabitants of the town. From the bench, is in view, nearly the whole circum ference of the lake, beginning at Friar Crag Bay, and Castlerigg, and ending with the land ing placej and Skiddaw. The farm house, call ed Stable Hills, with the grand rocks and vast woods of Wallow Crag, in a proudly swelling back-ground is screened by Lord's Island, over which, starting from the acclivity at Barrow Common, may be observed, Falcon Crag, Yew Crag, and Eve Crag. From Friar Crag, after much rain, the wraters of Lowdore, may be not only seen, but heard ; and, in the solemn stillness of the night, the va ried intonations of this and other falls vibrate refreshingly on the senses of the contemplative visitant ; either as witnessed during the dark ness of the moon, or when in full lustre, she is mildly reflected in the motionless waters, or, as elongated on the eye from their gentle agita tion. From the spectator's stand, to the oppo site shore, these catching lights may be fre quently observed, in several places, and at con siderable distances from each other at the same moment of time. Barrow Hall, and the inn at Lowdore, with their cascades, are bounded by Lord's Island and Ramp's Holm, and, between Ramp's Holm and St. Herbert's, Grange Crag, Castle Crag, Grange Fell, and Gate Crag, and, in remote distance, the mountains of Borrow dale and Wastdale. On the right of St. Herbert's 103 all the summits, from Maiden Moor to Skiddaw, of which, Cat Bells, Red Pike, in Buttermere, Causey Pike, and Grisedale Pike, are the prin cipal ; the latter acts as a distance to Derwent Isle. Skiddaw, as from the pier, is seen swell ing over Crow Park, flanked on the west by Isthmus, and on the east by the woods extend ing from Friar Crag to Cock shot. The walk on Friar Crag, though at present liberal in di mensions, ought to be at least three yards wide, by which, several persons might be en abled to walk a-breast. Unless for scenic im provement, or the benefit of other trees, few would require removal ; occasionally rising from a path, they create an interesting variety with such as stand upon its verge. The bench is a mile from Keswick. Cotfc sljot. The way to Cock shot is across a narrow green field, from a stile nearly opposite the gate, which opens into Crow Park, Cock shot hill is Mr. West's first station for Derwent Water, and is by him, thus described. *' Cock shot hill is remarkable for a general view : it is covered with a motley mixture of young wood, has an easy.ascen£ to the top, and, from it, the lake appears in great beauty. On the floor of a spacious amphitheatre of the most picturesque mountains imaginable, an elegant 104 sheet of water is spread out before you, shining like a mirror, and transparent as chrystal, va riegated with islands, adorned with wood, or clothed with the sweetest verdure, that rise in the most pleasing forms above the watery plains. The effects all around, are amazingly great; but no words can describe the surprising plea sure of this scene on a fine day, when the sun plays upon the bosom of the lake, and the sur rounding mountains are illuminated by his re fulgent rays, and their rocky broken summits invertedly reflected by the surface of the water." Mr. West's account of Cock shot has been written more than forty years. His motley mixture of young trees, have now so closely in terwoven their branches as to blot out all the beauty described by him, from the summit of the hill, encompassing which, and, at a mo derate distance from the boundary of the wood, there is a walk equally ungracious to the anxious tourist, whose chief prospects are on the boles of oaks and beeches. But, like a work of en chantment, Cock shot might be almost in stantaneously transformed into scenes of beau ty so. eminently superior to others, which are already deservedly admired, as at once to sur prise and please every sentimental beholder. Openings from the crown of the hill, through the '\voods, to the most captivating features of tlie remote country, would give a series of sin gularly varied scenes, of which, that towards Borrowdale and the one of Keswick, with Skid- daV in back-ground would be the principal. Biit, therpath above the eminence, and many points 105 above it, are capable of furnishing an everlast ing succession of the richest combinations. Amongst the many elegantly diversified scenes which might be added to to the well- known beauties of this celebrated vale, none would be more valuable than those produced by a judicious thinning of the woods on Cock shot: the infirm, the delicate, and the aged, might alight from their carriages at the very spot, or, even make the circuit of the wood without alighting, if, upon a road previouslyr furnishing the necessary accommodation. Cock shot, from its vicinity to the town, its ease of access, and its numerous charms (which, when unveiled, would be almost unrivalled) demands peculiar attention. ^tranfc's Mm* Strand's Hagg is divided into two parts, by & ridge, which extends over the hill, from east to west. On the south side of this ridge, have been planted, at equal distances, about twenty ash trees, now apparently of more than thirty years growth. These trees, wherever observed, are disgusting by their regularity. An exqui site view of the Borrowdale mountains, and the lake, may be had from the highest part of the hedge row. In this scene there is not any fore ground, but the middle-ground would be ex cellent, if the trees bordering on Friar Crag Bay were rendered into groups. Lord's Island, vol. u. p 106 Ramp's Holm, St. Herbert's Island, and Friar Crag, are here valuable features. By leaving the Friar Crag road at the en trance gate, near Derwent pier, and passing on the right, the hedge which divides Strand's Hagg from Friar Crag, the pedestrian will, at the end of the Hagg, find himself at Friar Crag Bay, a place furnishing several superior com positions. One of these is of Stable Hills and Wallow Crag, shut out on the south by Lord's Island ; another, of the Borrowdale mountains; a third, of Causey Pike, with Cat Bells on the left, and Friar Crag on the right ; and a fourth, of Falcon Crag, observed between Stable Hills and Lord's Island. This last is less profuse in water than the others, but it is chaste and beautiful. All these severally combined dis tances, and middle-grounds, may be further as- ' sisted by trees, there being numbers on the fore-ground, which, at the pleasure of the drafts man, will not only aid his beauties, but assist in shutting out deformities. Broom •$«!, an* ^taolc m\Xs. The gate which opens a passage through the fields to Stable Hills, is a mile upon the Bor rowdale road ; and, having entered the field, the way to Broom Hill, is a quarter of a mile on the side of a wall, to a stile, to be crossed by those on foot, to Borrowdale, or Barrow. This path, between the gate and stile, is singularly 107 interesting,: Falcon Crag rises splendidly above the stately oaks which grow upon Water Edge Bank, and the view towards Borrowdale, with the intervening' water, is fine, but infinitely less so, than, when twenty-four years ago, the trees sported over the surface of the land, which is now exclusively claimed for the pur pose of agriculture. From the stile, the pass age (on trespass) is by a hedge to the margin of the lake, and on its banks to the promontory, called Broom Hill, which is six hundred yards south of Stable Hills. From the beach, Falcon Crag is a grand object, which may be combined with the rocky side-ground, and a bold oak, if' required. The heights of Borrowdale, and the lake, may be assisted by trees, either from the field, or on the water's side. On the walk from Broom Hill to Stable Hills, either on the green field, or on the rugged borders of the lake, Skiddaw swells sublimely over Strand's Hagg, and Cock ?hot, having on the left, Lord's Island, and well-grown trees upon the right; but this otherwise superb combination is ruined by breadth without distribution. Skiddaw and and Strand's Hagg are woodless. Lord's Island and Cock shot are covered with wood. Stable Hills, a quarter of a mile from the Borrowdale road, is a large farm house ; it stands near the lake, at a short distance from the site of the bridge, anciently connecting the main land with Lord's Island. Engroved by ash trees, the house was formerly a picturesque appendage to the neighbouring scenes, but the recently built rectilineal out-building, like P 2 108 many of the surrounding materials, are all breadth. The artist may get some pretty hints about Stable Hills, but, in the present state of the woods, Stable Hills and Broom Hill have fewer attractions than many places already mentioned, and such others as will be hereafter described. Che #atot it ^cata, antf %itt\t &iH». pn the wry from the market place to the bridge, a little beyond Mr. Crosthwaite's Mu seum, there is a passage on the left, which leads by the Garden Heads to the Little Hills : this is an occasional pleasant variation to the walk from the bridge to the Borrowdale end of the town. From that angle of the Little Hills which joins the Plosh, there is a good view of the town, with Skiddaw in distance, but a better out of the adjoining field, somewliat south of the cottages which are now erecting. The Plosh, with a part of the town, out-topped by Skiddaw, was a fine composition till partly ob scured by the new houses just mentioned. In all these views, the Town Hall steeple is an ex cellent feature. TOatrr Cn&, anU its »looolan& ^npntUast s. Water End, and the woodland margin of the lake, three miles long, is the property of the J££, 2, page 10$, line . SOK.B.O'WIDAILTE 1EKB OF KESWICK . 109 Right Hon. Lord William Gordon, who, to pre vent intrusion, conducted, at a considerable expence, the road from Manesty to the foot, of the northern Cat Bell, a line "of almost un rivalled beauty, and for which, the public are greatly indebted to his Lordship: — by this con duct, Water End has become a place of singu lar, but enviable seclusion. To criticise the management of these grounds might be deemed an unpardonable impertinence, did they not, in their present state, greatly mi litate against the beauty of the vast scenes by which they are surrounded. The hints pro posed for their local improvement, and the con sequent benefit of the proprietor, as well as for the general harmony of that extensive vale in which they7 share so large a portion, will, it is hoped, plead the writer's apology for the free dom of his observations. Foe Park was, for many years, the northern boundary of the Water End estate Eight or nine years ago, Finkle Street, now Derwent Bank, was added to it. Derwent bank was built by the late Joseph Pocklington, Esq. who sold it to Mr. Marshal], from whom it was conveyed to the Rev. William Pearson, who disposed of it to Lord William Gordon, the present possessor. An hundred yards beyond Derwent Bank, there is ah opening to the lake, which leads tp a landing place for boats ; this opening separates the lands of Derwent Bank and Foe Park. One 110 cart road, (that nearest the lake) and two foot roads on the way to Silver Hill and Water End, entering, at no great distance from each other, the Foe Park woods, all unite near a bridge, six hundred yards from the commencement of the eastern road. AH these roads are so closely be set by trees, as to prevent the slightest glimpse at the surrounding mountains ; but the land on which these trees are planted, is marked by the most desirable undulations; and, to take away three out of four of these trees, would greatly enrich the owner, produce home diversity, and the most heavenly combinations with the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite. From the bridge, just mentioned, the road south east, is across a field, to Silver Hill. This field, which is several acres, is surrounded by trees. From the bridge, a foot road passes on the western side of the field, into a close set wood, from which it presently enters upon a broad but circuitous foot road from Silver Hill to Water End, guarded all the way by natives and foreigners, the latter chiefly larches and spruce firs. This charming walk presents nu merous hints for still more elegant association. Cat Bells, which, all the way from Portinscale to Water End, swell from their bases with a grandeur superior to their appearance from any other part of' the vale, might not only ,tfrom this walk, but ficm many other points upon this highly favoured estate, be so intermixed with the trees upon its surface, as to produce a num ber of uncommon assemblages. Causey Pike, Ill with the inferior'elevations, from which it rises, is here likewise well calculated as a back-ground in aid of many a charming landscape. The house and the bordering grounds at Water End, have been already noticed. South of Water End, the ancient road to Grange is by the houses, called High and Low Haws End, and Brandelow ; from which road, and out of the field, there are excellent views of Skiddaw and Saddleback, but these are greatly inferior to others which might be opened from desirable stands, through woods, whose present super fluity are everlastingly opposing beauty. From the house, there is a walk on the north side of the bay to the open part of the lake, which is conducted, and considerably extended on its banks. This is a delightful walk, and, by occasional clearing, would be still more abun dantly recreative. From Water End to Silver Hill, there is a di rect way, which is joined by that circuitous one already described, at both ends, near the houses. This shorter way is, in places, obscured in the solemnity of gloom. An unwearied attention in the management of the foliage of trees will produce the darkness of night, but this is not to be effected, as some may vainly imagine, by redundancy, but by carefully preventing the branches of well distanced trees from touching, by a timely cutting, and thereby allowing those branches to infold themselves between each other ; for, wherever they come in contact, a 112 warfare ensues, which ends in the destruction of all the contending parties; of which, there can not be a more striking evidence, than in the woods in question, and in many7 other amidst these northern mountains, where the side arms of ail such trees are in a pitiable state of decay, and the light of heaven dimly shed through a ragged canopy of leaves. Can fancy conceive a grander exhibition than on emerging from midnight murkiness, to be saluted with an exquisite lake landscape, while reflecting, in its calmness, all the splen dour of a setting sun, or those transient lights, or flitting vapours, which, though producing to the eye a momentary astonishment only, per vaded the mind with hours of the most elegant, though visionary gratification. Silver Hill is a pretty cottage, of one story, designed and built by, Mr. Cullen, when he was steward to Lord William Gordon. From Silver Hill, the road to Keswick is di agonally across the field, to the bridge, and into the public road, by the foot, or horse roads, already mentioned. Half way from the house to the bridge, over the tops of trees, there is a fine display of summits, the most striking of which, are Robinson, High Stile, Rolling End, Causey Pike, Barrow, Grisedale Pike, Swinside, Skiddaw, Saddleback, Castle Head, Wanthwaite Crags, AV allow Crag, and Falcon Crag. A little nearer the bridge, over a deep dip between two splendid side-grounds of native trees, are seen the Higher and the lower Cat Bells : this 113 enviable combination is capable of being render ed still more charming by a proper attention to the intervening woods, all the property of Lord William Gordon. Is there a more impressive combination of nature and art, than a finely fea tured distance as observed through a descending vista of well-arranged, and well contrasted fo liage ? The expence of rendering Water End one of the glories of the north of England, would be trifling to the sum produced by a necessary re duction of the trees with which it is at present encumbered. Jftofoirit, or Crostfjtoaite Cljurri). The usual way7 to the Church, is on a flat, and, to the eye, less interesting than that cir cuitous walk by the Vicarage : but, those on their approach to the house of prayer, will not be less impressed with the wonderous workings of their beneficent Creator from the upper than the lower road. Beyond the turnpike gate, at a wheel, of the river Greta, the Wigton road leaves that to Cocker mouth and Whitehaven ; from the same point a foot road passes through a field at the edge of a nursery garden, called Lime Potts, to the Vicarage. The horseing block in front of the Vicarage, is thus described by Mr. Gray. : . VOL. II. Q 114 " From hence, I got to the Parsonage, alittle before sun-set, and saw, in my glass, a picture, that if I could transmit to you, and fix it in all the softness of its living colours, would fairly sell for a thousand pounds. This is the sweet est scene I can yet discover, in point of pas toral beauty; the rest are in a sublimer style." Concerning this subject, Mr. West enters in to a laboured description. Perhaps, in Mr. Gray's time, and even in Mr. West's, ten years afterwards, the fore and middle grounds were more happily in harmony than at present, with the distance : but it is presumed, that the " soft ness of its living colours" added greatly to the fascinated feelings of the poet. It is certainly a less pleasing picture than that from Orma- thwaite, spoken of by Mr. West, and of many others of Derwent Water, to be noticed in the same direction. Opposite the Vicarage, is a house, some time since, the property and residence of A. Allason, Esq., but now of Mrs. Crothers, who has added to it an elegant room of one story. The way to the Church from the Vicarage, is between Mrs. Crothers's and Dove Cote, the summer's seat of James Stanger, Esq. Dove Cote is most happily situate for a view of the lake, but more particularly for the mountains of Newlands, Braithwaite, and Thornthwaite, which, with their splendid intervening woods, are not elsewhere more excellently assembled. At a gate opening from the church road to the IIS house, this fine mountain scene, with the church is scarcely less agreeably displayed than from Dove Cote itself. From this gate, the path is continued on the northern side of the pleasure ground, and commands, besides a stripe of Bassenthwaite Water, a long chain of houses, planted at the foot of that stupendous mountain Skiddaw; to which houses, a foot road strikes from the other, across the fields, and joins the turnpike road a mile from Kes wick. At the end of the plantation, in a little peep among the trees, the church again appears, but not so pleasingly as from the stile at the angle of the road. CrostJjtoatte Cljurdj, near ftrstotefe, Ho, dfort£--tb)o. Here the church is observed under the dip connecting Grisedale Pike and Grasmire, with all the elevated summits extending from the latter mountain to Causey Pike. From this descent, at every step, the church is a good object, and where its vanishing lines become more strikingly7 abrupt, it is the prin cipal feature of the scene. With a pious feeling, the parishioners of Cros thwaite, on many a monumental stone, have care fully recorded the virtues oftheir ancestors. Q 2 116 The usual road from the church to the town, is in a straight line. Crcurstoit rounlf iSassentfjtoatte 8Hattr. The excursion round this lake is a pleasant ride of more than twenty miles ; till within a few years past, there was, near Ouse Bridge, at the foot of the lake, a good inn, where those in pursuit of pleasure, or improvement, might either refresh, or take up their abode for the night ; now, the only public house conveniently situated for those purposes, is at Bassenthwaite Halls. Bassenthwaite Water is four miles long, and, in some places, almost a mile in breadth ; it lies in a direction nearly north and south. The fish it contains, are perch, pike, trout, eels, and sometimes salmon. It is four miles north of Derwent Water. Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cumber? land, speaks thus of Bassenthwaite. " This lake affords many bays, where you may, in some parts, push under the cover of a lofty over- hanging grove, and, in others, rocky coves, where you find the gentler echo, favour able to music, and a song. The painter has tamer landscapes here, but they are warmer, and more serene than those of Keswick. Soft pas toral scenes margin the lake on the eastern side, 117 over which, Skiddaw lifts an august brow, to give the boldest contrast to the green and gent ly rising eminences, the scattered coppices, the velvet drest lawn, the rich verdure ot the mead, the tranquil cottage, and the serene and shining mirror which the lake expands. The boldest landscape found here, consists of irregular eminences, clothed with oaks, at whose feet a grassy margin lies to the water's brink, and holds some farmhold ; whilst the sublimer mountains, pile upon pile, lift up their heads* and, from the western sun, cast long shades upon the lake, whose distant shores catch the surpassing beams, and glow with additional beauty, from the c'ontrasting shades, over which, the distant eminences mix their brows with the azure of the atmosphere." Some recommend the western side of the lake, as first to be travelled, in preference to the eastern ; but, the writer liking the former, will commence the conduct of his friends along the western side. The road to the western, or Withop side of this lake, is first by Long Bridge, to Portinscale, one mile and a quarter from Keswick. On the right, beyond Portinscale, is Pow, the property and residence of Mr. Birket. Along this road, fronting the traveller, is Grisedale Pike, which, with pleasant near-ground trees, is given in many hints for composition. Two miles and a half upon the Cockermouth road, at the first public house in the village of Braithwaite, that to Bassenthwaite turns off upon the right. IIS This road, by an easy ascent, is formed into a terrace, exhibiting the luxuriantly wooded vales of Thornthwaite, Braithwaite, and Kes wick, where accident has given the whole in exquisite beauty, and, highly to the discredit of those great landed proprietors whose only object in their agricultural improvements is the accumulation of riches, these worldly wise in dividuals forgetting, or rather not knowing, that in every attempt to aid, or even generate beauty, that utility may take it by the hand. At the village of Thornthwaite, between the woollen mills and the road, stands a small farm house, called Thwaite Hill; from which there is a charming valley view towards Keswick. From Jenkin Hill, upon the right, the whole of the surrounding country is seen to very great advantage. In all these views Skiddaw is the guardian mountain northward. The road skirts the base of the rugged moun tain, Barf, ere it reaches the lake ; onward, from their junction, Skiddaw and Helvellyn are each to be observed, but less advantageously than from numerous points on advancing to wards its foot. In the neighbourhood of Beck, Withop and Smithy Green, two farm houses, on the left, are some good scenes ; but, from the ascending road, which is in places bordered by rocks and stately trees, they are particularly fine. Here, in sweet meanderings, towards the head of the lake, may be observed many bays, delightfully fringed with wood. On the left, over Mirehouse, rises Dodd, the Cub of 119 Skiddaw. Beyond the head of thelake appear Wallow Crag, and Falcon Crag, and, towering above them, Bleaberry Fell, and High Seat: and remotely over the foot of Dodd and Castle rigg, Styx, Whiteside, and Helvellyn. Beyond the pretty bays on the right, rises Swinside, and, on the other side of Derwent Water, the high lands neighbouring Lowdore, distanced by the still more remote mountain, the High Raise. This fine expanse of natural beauty so charm ing from the road, would, from many stands amongst the woods and rocks be almost inex pressibly more attractive if those woods were in places rendered into compositions, appropri ately adapted to the genius of the scenes for which they were designed as ornaments. This is a sacred spot. The axe has here been used to weed, not to exterminat. Had that barbarian leveller better known his office on Derwent Water, instead of sorrowful regret, unalloy ed pleasure had attended the gazings of the rambler. Mr. West proposes the return to Keswick to be upon the western side. " Return to Keswick up the western side of the lake. " Every lover of landscape should take this ride in the afternoon ; and, if the sun shines, it is exceedingly pleasant. The road branches off from the great road to Cockermouth, a little below the bridge, and leads through the wood, 120 and round Castle How. In some places it rises above the lake a considerable height, and the water is agreeably seen at intervals, through a screen of low wood, that decks its banks ; then the road descends to the level of the water, and presents you with a variety of surprising views in different styles, that shew themselves in an agreeable succession as the eye wanders in amazement along the lake." When Mr. West made the tour of Bassen thwaite, Withop woods probably did not so much abound in visual impediments. Beck Withop, already mentioned, is his fourth station for this lake. From the higher grounds, till beyond Castle How, all the beauties of the lake are, at present, veiled by impenetrable woods. Even at Saw Crag, a farm a little south of Castle How, where, out of the fields, prospects might be reasonably expected, nothing can now be seen. By entering a field short of a bridge, something beyond Castle How, and passing on the side of the stream to a ground of gentle elevation, the tourist will gain a newly featured view of Bassenthwaite. The finely embayed coast un der the woods at Saw Crag, and the opposite shores at Scarness and Bradenss, cheerfully em bellished by farm houses, and, shady groves, and having the lofty Skiddaw as a back-ground, presents an union of materials at once sublime and beautiful. Beyond the above bridge, from a hilly field on the left, there is an exquisite' bassenthwaite water. 121 opening towards Helvellyn, on the east screen ed by Dodd, and, on the west, by the woods of Withop, and though a more contracted prospect than the one first mentioned of that distant mountain, it may, nevertheless, be better adapted for the canvass. The mile yet to be travelled to Ouse Bridge, is chiefly near the water, Ouse Bridge spans the Derwent, a short way from the lake ; hence winds that river in stately majesty, through those fertile plains, which are the granaries of wheat, to the more romantic, but less cultivated districts of Cumberland and Westmorland. The house formerly an inn, is a little beyond, the bridge, and on the Bassenthwaite side of the river. Armathwaite Hall, the seat of Sir Frederick Fletcher Vane, Bart, commands a view of Bas senthwaite Water from head to foot, with all " its winding creeks and solitary bays," and, for the enjoyment of which, the house i3 planted on a well calculated elevation. The trees upon the lawn, and on the margin of the water, are respectable fore and middle-grounds. Long Side and Dodd, upon the left, and Withop Brows upon the right, compose a delightful vista, through which, far to the south, retiring behind each other, are the mountains of Thorn thwaite, Braithwaite, Newlands, Keswick, Bor rowdale, Wythburn, and Langdale. On the VOL. 11, B, J 22 left, over a grove of trees, Skiddaw, the corn* rnon lord of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, rears his mighty head, A mile from Ouse Bridge, on the Hesket Newmarket road, are four lane ends. One turns on the right to Keswick, but, those who wish to take advantage of a decent public house, may leave the Keswick road at the first turning on the left, and pass down North Row, under North Row Bank, to Bassenthwaite Halls. Or, pursue the Hesket road from Ouse Bridge, two miles, and turn on the right to a house, called Robin Hood, thencetpthetop of the hill, called the Haws Rake, from which, on a steep and winding descent, to the Halls, is presented a combination of natural and artificial beauty, at least equal in its kind tp any other amongst the lakes. Deeply below the spectator, in the north-east angle of the valley, stands the village, called Bassenthwaite Halls., The surface of the land is profusely spread over with stately trees, which, first surrounding the Halls, are thence extended over a series of easy undulations, to the foot of Skiddaw, and the lake, nearly the whole cir cumference of which, is here presented. In the middle of the dale, stands the chapel, encircled by a population, happily engaged in gathering and dispensing corn. These low land culti vators are overlooked from the rugged brows of Skiddaw, by the hardy mountain shepherd, whose fleecy rangers augment the interest and beauty of these smiling fields, which, though lying at the foot of one of the most stupendous 123 'i mountains in the kingdom, are rarely excelled either in the proportionate quantity, or in the quality of their productions. Through the screening sides of Skiddaw, and the wooded brows of Withop, in distance appear the moun tains bordering on Derwent Water ; Causey Pike is the principal. At every descending step, this scene is varied in its charms ; but, near the bottom of the hill, it is unfortunately obscured by trees. This fine extended vale may fairly challenge competition with that facing the traveller, on his descent from Castlerigg, to Keswick. That of Crosthwaite, from the side of Latrigg, or of the same vale, from Whinlatter. Patterdale, from Place Fell, as seen above the road from Low Hartshop to the inn. Ambleside, from the Gale. Of the first sight of Ennerdale, on the way from Crosdale to the lake. Bassenthwaite Halls, or perhaps Bassen thwaite Haws, as standing at the foot of the Haws Rake, consists of a few respectable houses, watered by the river proceeding from White Water Dash. Over this stream is- a rude, but artist-like bridge, to the Haws Rake. Near the bridge are the inn and the mill. From Bassenthwaite Halls, the nearest road to Keswick, is by the Chapel, but this is a less amusing way than that by the higher mill to the road from Caldbeck, by Orthwaite to Kes- - R 2 124 wick, and there, turning on the right by High Side, and gaining the Cockermouth road at a good farm house six miles from Keswick. At the Keswick end of the Halls a narrow road turns on the left by Bassenthwaite High Mill to Bassenthwaite High Side. . On this road, where the High Mill is first observed, a rocky and gracefully wooded eleva tion, with a projection of Skiddaw, swelling over the whole, is an excellent painter's study. Hence, the road is on the verge of a bank, fall ing steeply to the rivulet which supplies the mill with water. This delightful dingle, darken ed by a profusion of oak trees, through which the frothed stream dashes in melancholy murmur ing, is a scene highly in contrast to that from Haws Rake, and the one now approached and discovered from the top of the hill on that part of the Caldbeck road to Keswick, named Bassen? thwaite High Side. From the hill, and the adjoining fields, in newly combined features, the widely extended, and highly cultivated plain presented from the Haws Rake, is again seen. The chapel is in the centre of the plain. Bassenthwaite Halls, under the Rake, is observed in quiet retire ment. Over the lake, towards its head, the prospect is terminated by the steep hills and vast woods pf Withop ; on the north of which, having at its end, fJastle How, is the pretty sylvan vale of Embleton, with the hill called Setmurthy, rising on the right, Between Set- 125 murthy and the Haws Rake, opens on each side the river Derwent, that rich champaign country, which, extending far and wide, is a grateful finish to this interesting and animating spec tacle. Six miles from Keswick, the Caldbeck road joins that from Keswick to Cockermouth and Wigton ; and five miles from Keswick, one turns off to Bassenthwaite Church, Bowness, Bradness, and Scarness. Scarness and Bradness are West's second and third stations. Bradness is preferable to Scarness, and is thus described by that lover of the beauties of nature. et The next remarkable promontory is Brad ness, a Tound green hill, that, spreading itself into the lake, forms a bay, with Bowness to the south. The best general view of the lake, is from the crown of this hill behind the farm house. Here you look over three bays, finely formed. Nothing can be imagined more ele gant than the sinuosity of this side, contrasted with the steep shores and lofty woods of the opposite. The view upwards, is not less charm ing, being indented and wooded to the water's edge." Bassenthwaite Church stands near the lake ; it is an ancient and picturesque building ; the chapel was erected in 1471 ; it is conveniently situated for the northern, and the church for the southern parishioners. From the Bardness junction with the Wigton and Cockermouth road, the way to Keswick, 126 for some distance, has the woods of Mirehouse on the right. Mirehouse, the seat of James Spedding, Esq. is a spacious building, surrounded with valuable plantations of oak, larch, and other trees : — the larches, in a broad display of vivid green, creep up the side of the mountain ; fortunately, how ever, in a retiring chink, between Long Side and Dodd. Mr. Houseman says, " Here, a thriving plantation of'larches, on the rocky front of a barren mountain, ought to encourage simi lar attempts in many other parts of Cumberland and Westmorland, to turn the almost useless hills to advantage, and beautify the country, by planting them with trees." But, can this be effected by plots of spike heads ? All unsightly trees ought to be plant ed in retired situations, or otherwise invariably obscured by assemblages of beauty7. From Mirehouse, passing on the way, Little Cros thwaite, Long Close, and Dancing Gate, the mountain scenery is highly interesting. At Dancing Gate, the road under Skiddaw leaves Lyzick on the right, it then passes Mill beck, Applethwaite, and Ormathwaite, and having crossed the hill, called Gale, under Lonscale, and by Brund Holm, it is continued over the river Glenderaterra to Threlkeld, being a nearer way from Bassenthwaite to that place, than by Keswick. Lyzick, the occasional residence of J. H. Fryer, Esq, exhibits the sublime elevations of 137 Newlands, Braithwaite, and Thornthwaite, to a very superior advantage; and, as a place for the study of form, colour, and effect, is scarcely equalled in the environs of Keswick, From Lyzick, the road to Keswick, (not three miles) being low, and in had repair, is, on the whole, less alluring than that already noticed. Several roads on the left turn off to the houses under Skiddaw, and opposite, one to Ormathwaifee is a foot-path over the fields to the vicarage, from which it is continued by the Lime Potts nursery, to Keswick. One mile from Keswick, a; road on the right leads by a new house, on tbie top of a hill, to the vicarage, and Portinscale, or to the church. The excellent new house on the hill, was built on the site of an old one, called New Hall. From the new Hall* there is a most command-, ing view of the surrounding vale. Derwent Water is here in fine. combination with the high lands of Borrowdale ; and, those of Newlands, Braithwaite, and Thornthwaite, are in excellent assemblage. Here is a peep at Bassenthwaite, and, all the ¦ valley under the over-awing Skid daw. This road, leaving New Hall on the right, joins the Portinscale road at the wheel of the Greta, before mentioned, not half a mile from the centre of the town of Keswick. lfS ISaffisentljtoaite Mater. Ko. df ortg-fljrtt . This view is from the margin of the lake, near Bassenthwaite Church. Beyond the head of the lake, rise Wallow Crag, and Bleaberry Fell. In remote distance, over the Mirehouse woods, Helvellyn, in a fine line, ends the pros pect. asototer intone, Itostijtoatte, anil J^tonrtpoatte, The road from Grange Bridge to the flat part of the valley of Borrowdale, half a mile be yond Bowder Stone, presents, in all directions, a quick and most amusing succession of scenes of a peculiar ruggedness and grandeur. Mr. West says ; " One rock elbows out, and turns the road directly against another." " Here rock riots over rock, and mountain inter secting mountain, forms one grand semicircular sweep." Mr. Gilpin,, — " As we doubled one promon tory, another unfolded, and we found ourselves* not in, what appeared at first a recess of moun tains, but in a narrow winding valley; the scenes of which, by quick transitions, were continually shifting. This valley, so replete with hideous grandeur, is known by the name of the Straits of Borrowdale." £29 But, this district, though rude, is less replete with scenes of hideous grandeur than Gates garth Dale, Ennerdale Dale, (particularly un der the pillar) and the descent from Sty Head to Wastdale. But, neither Ennerdale, Wast dale, Buttermere* or any other of the Cumber land wilds, are so prolific in subjects for the port-folio, as the straits or gorge of Borrowdale. Of these subjects, those of Skiddaw, with Der went Water, and that of the valley of Borrow dale, where it encircles Rosthwaite, with the towering summits at Coom Head beyond it, are the principal ; but, from the rocky bed of the river, and from its eastern and western banks, the bordering cliffs may be called in aid of many a noble composition. About a quarter of a mile beyond Grange Bridge, some rocks on the left, With Grange Fell, in a romantic mixture of crags and trees, as a back-ground, have furnished a subject for a sketch. No. 40, of the large etchings. Half way between Grange Bridge and Bow der Stone, a little out of the road, on the left, is the Wye foot slate quarry : here, as in many other places, the working is discontinued, owing to the best slate being involved in the rubbish, which has fallen from the margin of the exca vation, A. projecting corner of this quarry, with oak trees growing out of the rock, and from one of the old oaks, a healthy birch tree, presented, in 1812, a. rich and peculiar assemblage of the pie- VOL. II. JS 130 turesque ; highly pleasing in nature, and a fine study. This group of objects is the best, when taken in composition with the retrospect on Gate Crag ; but, the axe and the saw, which, before the year just mentioned, had been busily employed in doing good, have, since that time, greatly injured the combination.* This subject, which is purely picturesque, requires, for its representation in pencil, or in colours, a nice, and an attentive consideration of its component materials. Such materials are lost on scribbling generalizers, who, neglecting their characteristic peculiarities, neglect like wise that contrast, which, in scenes like the present, furnish to the observer of taste the chief sources of delight. The mountains and vallies of the north of England abound, not only in the picturesque, but in scenes of grandeur, and of beauty. Sleddale, Kentmere, and Mardale, though presenting scenes of grandeur, are less sublime than those vallies, which have, at their heads, ************ * Objects, like the above, can only be justly and elegantly executed by those who have first laboriously studied in detail. In this note the writer intended to introduce a short Essay on Drawing from Nature i hut, on pursuing the subject, it became too extensive, and is now given in the Appendix: The errone ous views of many persons concerning the necessary preparatory studies of a landscape painter, have induced this little work, whieh, its author hopei , will be perused with interest. 131 those vast elevations, Gable, Bow Fell, and Scaw Fell* Of the low land lakes, several display, from their environs, a happy mixture of the grand and beautiful; such are Windermere, Ulls Water, Haw's Water, Derwent Water, and Bassenthwaite. But these lakes are likewise replete with scenes of simple beauty. The larger inland rivers, in their devious courses through highly cultivated, and well wooded vallies, are, from the sides of the neigh bouring uplands, objects of singular interest and beauty ; they are supplied by lesser streams from dells and dingles, not unfrequently bor dered by7 bold impending rocks, from which, project trees, in all the wild graces of unaided nature. These contracted bottoms are rich in the happiest assemblages of the picturesque, and few of them have greater claims on the artist's attention than the labyrinths of Borrow dale, which, are not only locally excellent, but, especially so, in connection with the distances on every hand, to be observed from amongst the rocks and trees. For close scenery, the little rapids of Ambleside and Rydal, are scarcely equalled in the country; but, the mountains are sparingly seen from their troubled waters, and when seen, they fail to produce back grounds equal to those of Borrowdale. A little beyond the passage to this old quarry, is a deviating foot-track over Wye foot, so called, from the supposed print of a s 2 132 man, a cow, a dog, and of the cloven foot of the wicked one, who here overtook the trio, and feloniously carried off the cow. Beyond this place, some four hundred yards short of Bow der Stone, appears on its right, screened by fhe foot of Castle Crag, that beautiful part of Borrowdale, encircling Rosthwaite, with the Coom beyond it, This is 41 of the large etch ings ; but, in that print, Bowder Stone is cut off by a rock, on the left. Bowder Stone was purchased by the late Mr, Pocklington, who, by taking away t,he waJl# with which it was formerly encumbered, made it a capital painter's study. When the writer first saw it, i£ was in the state described by Mr, Houseman. «« The road winds about the eastern side of the stone, to-* wards which, i,t nrojects ten or twelve feet over its base, forming a good shelter for sheep and cattle, and the proprietor of the ground taking advantage of this circumstance, has walled in the other side, for a sheepfbld." Mr* West says, " This stone Is of a prodigious bulk. It lies like a ship upon its keel. Its length is 62 feet, its circumference 84. — Its solidity is about 23,090 feet, and itsweightabout 1771 tons." Mr. Gilpin observes " Massy rocks of im«» mense size, rent from the mountains, are every where found ; but this stone appears to be of a different kind. It does not seem to have beeu the appendage of a mountain, but itself an in^ 133 dependent creation. It lies in a sort of dia gonal position, overshadowing a space sufficient to shelter a troop of horse." Surely, Mr. Gil pin, these must be the horses of Liliput. Mr. Houseman thinks, that ** this massy body, which is a little mountain of itself, has, in some former age, probably by some great con vulsion of nature, been detached from the rock above," «' That it should stop in this position after the violence of its motion in its descent from the mountain, is surprising ; and to place it in its present posture, or even to move it by any power of art, seems utterly impossible." The writer, like Mr. Houseman, thinks that Bowder Stone is a fragment from the side of the mountain, and that the very place from which it has fallen, is discernible, iUtfoftftv £toiu. No. ifortiHour. This view of the Stone, is taken from the dpor of the house built by Mr. Pockling:on, who likewise erected the chapel. Gate dag, the Knitting Plows, and Manesty Side, are seen beyond it. Bowder Stone, No. 42, of the large etchings, is from the green plot on the road side, as approached from Keswick. This house is the summer's residence of John Raven, who, on the traveller's appearance, commences an exordium preparatory to the 134 presentation of a written paper, specifying the weight and dimensions of the stone, of which, in some seasons, he makes a profitable trade. John is a hardy man ; for, in the se verest weather, though more than eighty years of age, he exposes his bare scalp, and the silver grey7 hairs which scantily supply its borders, while on the watch for customers. His hard ness of hearing makes it impossible to com municate any thing to him but by means of pantomime. The movement of the hand to wards the pocket, is an act John understands as well as any member of the fraternity to which he belongs. This miserable man, blind to all the charms of surrounding nature, and to all nature's images, excepting that of the King, can have few enjoy ments, being generally left alone in the house, even at night. In the day time, during business hours, the stone is visited by two young women, who are hardly more competent to furnish use ful information than their grandsire. Raven's dove-like wife, who died a few years ago, was a shrewd and civil woman. The whole range of forms encircling Bowder Stone, is a magnificent exhibition of the pic turesque ; and the artist will find few places richer in fore-ground materials than Grange Crag, and Grange Fell, particularly on that part of Grange Fell which rises above the stone. Of these views, that of Rosthwaite is one of the happiest assemblages in Borrowdale ; and, the fields around the village display the only flat pb- 135 servable from Bowder Stone. A good point of view is from the bench of slate planted on a green bank adjoining the chapel. Desirable places may likewise be found on the descent of the road. From the above bench, a reach of the Derwent, enlivening the scene, is observed, at the foot of Castle Crag, whose rocky surface, partly hidden by trees, with the not less splendid projection, Randerson Band, upon the left, shut into an agreeable quantity the pleasant vale of Rosthwaite, and the towering distant mountains. These are the High Knott, Rosthwaite Cam, Coom Head, Glaramara, the How7, High Pike, and Long Side. After much rain, the waterfall in Coom Gill, is a cheerful appendage to this noble combination. The large upright stones at the bottom of the hill, are called Randerson Band Stones, to which, at every step, the component parts pre sent, though greatly varied, a series of delight ful compositions. , The Band Stones are a good foreground to a retrospect on the shaggy moun tains rising from the road. In front, or back ward, Castle Crag, Gate Crag, and Knitting Hows, by their savage wiidness, are highly re creative to the lovers of uncontaminated nature. Half a mile beyond Bowder Stone, at the foot of the hill, is the river, over which, Castle Crag towers delightfully to the view of a painter, who will see, in fine association with it, the de scending road, aided by rocks and trees. Hence, it is flat todhe village of Rosthwaite, on the way to which, two bridges are crossed, the second of these, is called Rosthwaite Bridge. 136 &ost!jtoaitt. Rosthwaite consists of thirteen houses ; it is in two parts ; six houses being near the road, and seven connected with them by an avenue of lofty pines. Some of the buildings are pic turesque, and compose well with the pines, and other sheltering trees, all of which being seated in a deep entrenchment of mountains, impress the mind with a pleasing, but solemn enthusi asm, not easily described. On the banks of the Stonethwaite arm of the Derwent, there has recently been erected, by Miss Barker, an excellent house, commanding a fine view over the river, and of the rocky ele vations, called Hay Stacks. There is scarcely amongst these northern vallies, a place, in which an equally valuable collection of painters' studies may be so speedily collected, as from the environs of Rosthwaite. Two public houses are found at Rosthwaite ; a circumstance greatly in favour of such artists, as, for the pleasure and improvement of the eye and mind, Will there repose, rather than returfl each night to Keswick. From the top of a green hill, near Ros thwaite, the three vallies of Rosthwaite, Stone thwaite, and Seathwaite, with their screening acclivities, present a series of singular, but grand associations. The mountains observed 137 from this stand, beginning with those environ ing the village of Stonethwaite, (the southern of these three vallies) are, on the left, the Knotts, a hill covered with trees, and on the right, the High Knott, which rises abruptly from BonroWidale Chapel. Joining the High Knott,' on the left, is the Hay Stacks, and far-i ther off, the Hanging Hay Stacks. Succeeding the latter, and over Stonethwaite, are Blake How Crag, and Bull's Crag, with Eagle Crag, towering majestically, beyond them. On the left of Eagle Crag, is the summit of Greenup, the highest land passed between the Knotts and Eagle Crag, on the way from Borrowdale to Grasmere. Extending from the northern side of the High Knotts, is the Coom, separated by Long Crag and High Pike from the Seathwaite valley. In the Coom, appears a steep rock, called Raven Crag. Coom Head is succeeded by Glaramara and the How. From the river beyond Castle Lodge, Longthwaite Bank ex tends to a considerable distance on the north west. This is a wooded hill, over which, may be seen many superior elevations Sprinkling, with Sea Fell on the left, and Lingmell Crags upon the right, rise between the High Pike, and Bay's Brown, On the right of Bay's Brown, Gillercoom, Naddle End, Gillercoom Edge, and Raven Crag, present themselves. Great Gable and Green Gable are discovered, swelling sublimely above Gillercoom. Lapgthwaite Bank pbscures the high end of the Seathwaite valley; but the lower end, in great baauty, is seen between the Chapel and Castle Lodge. VOL. IL, T 138 Over the northern end of Langthwaite Bank, is High Scadle, to the north of which, are Low Scadle, Gate Crag, Manesty Side, and Cat Bells ; with Castle Bank and Castle Crag under them, the whole cut off on the left by Grange Fell. From Langthwaite to Castle Crag, the flat bottom is exquisitely spread over with wood, and the village and trees at Rosthwaite, just be low the eye, make the whole a very interesting range of objects. On the right of Grange Fell, are the Yew Crags, being a continuation of the Knotts, first mentioned. J£toiwfl)u)attc. Stonethwaite is a mile south of Rpsthwaite, part of the way on the road to Seathwaite. Leaving the Seathwaite road, Borrowdale Cha pel, and two farm houses, known by the name of Chapel, are on the right. Stonethwaite consists of seven picturesque buildings, which, like the abrupt and rocky steeps, are delightfully graced by trees, and are desireable studies for the cottage artist. Eagle Crag is best approached by keeping the rivet on the right hand, having first crossed Stonethwaite Bridge. Stonethwaite Bridge stands a little to the east of the houses. Its ruggedness, and its appropriate back-grounds stamp it with peculiar J39 attractions. Looking down the river, and having the heights neighbouring to Bowder Stone in distance, or fore-shortened, and with the village the middle-ground, and bounding the whole, the Hay Stacks, and the Hanging Hay Stacks make two good subjects. But, a third, supe^ rior to these, is J^toiutjjtoaite SBrfoge* No. dfortt)-- fjfoe. This scene is looking up the river, through a vista of ash trees, to Eagle Crag, which appears beyond the bridge, having on each side, in distance, the high lands of Langstreth and Greenup. To the junction of the streams flowing through Greenup and Langstreth, and uniting at the foot of Eagle Crag, the passage on the banks of the river from Stonethwaite Bridge abounds in a se ries of fine pictures. A stile, at the end of the bridge, leads the pedestrian first through fields, afterwards upon the horse road; or, he may take his way on the rugged banks of the river, near which, or out of it its stony bed there are some almost unequalled views, in which Eagle Crag is a principal feature. This is a district, too richly abounding in native beauties, to be slightly passed over by the draftsman, who will find few so happily accommodating in the supply of wholes or parts. T 2 140 rfiifcltifn; Cam. Ho. dfortjHtmt. Sprinkling Tarn is connected with Sty Head Tarn, by a runner of more than a mile in length ; by following which, up a steep acclivity7, the pedestrian will ariive at Sprinkling Tarn, and, by reaching its southern side, see over the VOL. II. Z 170 water, Great Gable ; and farther off, Yewbar row. Sprinkling Tarn is a superb elevation, and the way already described, is a part of an eligible ascent to Sea Fell Pikes. *»* buttermere. The short excursion to Buttermere, is by Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale, to Buttermere, and through the vale of Newlands, to Keswick; but, as some persons may wish to commence with Newlands, in order that, after having seen But termere, Crummock Water, and Low's Water, they may return to Keswick over Whinlatter. The road from Keswick, through Newlands, to Buttermere, shall be first noticed. Co Buttermere, tfjrousli Netolano'ss. The road to Newlands, is by Portinscale, and thence between the Foe Park woods, and Swin side, to the three road ends, beyond the top of the hill, where that on the right leads through Newlands to Buttermere. The first sight of Newlands from this road, which is on the com mon under Swinside, is at once beautiful and grand ; the beauty arises from this circumstance, namely, that the numerous proprietors are never at the same moment in the same denuding hu mour. Goldscope, in a series of finely fore shortened lines, is extended up to Hindsgarth, 171 which .swells proudly from the vale, having on the left, Dale Head, Bull Crag, and the Cat Bells ; on the right, Robinson, and Rolling End; at its foot Emerald Bank; and, under the Cat Bells, Skelgill, an object cheerfully7 sa luting the spectator, from the borders of the lower end of Derwent Water. At the end of Swinside, near the two houses, called Swinside, there is a pretty peep at Bassen thwaite, over the vale, screened by Barrow and Swinside, with Caer Mot in the distance. The next houses on the left, are at Stair Mill, on the side of which, a road on the right, leads by Gill Bank to Little Town, and Newlands' Chapel. At Stair Bridge, the neighbouring moutains, in graceful lines, arrest attention ; and Skiddaw, Saddleback, and the crags of Wanthwaite, are stately distances to many appropriate near-hand objects. A rude bridge, uniting with some ancient buildings, and Causey Pike, swelling over them, is rendered a good picture. Beyond these buildings, at a gate, the road enters that from Newlands to Cockermouth, by Braithwaite. This road to Braithwaite, crosses Stony Croft Bridge, which is over the river, passing the smelting mill. Stony Croft Bridge is highly picturesque ; a fine water-fall dashes under its arch, on each side ornamented with rocks and various shrubs, with Causey Pike crown ing the whole. No. 37, of the large etchings. From the gate, just mentioned, the ascending road passes Rolling End, whence the scenery is z 2 172 excellent, either in the direction of Skiddaw, across the valley towards Cat Bells, or up the vale of Newlands. On the side of Cat Bells, are Guttersgale, and Shelgill, which places have furuished subjects for the 78 etchings. At Emerald Bank, a neat modern built house, on the left, four miles from Keswick, the views towards Saddleback, and Dale Head, are even superior to those already mentioned. A fine branch of the vale of Newlands, sprinkled with trees and farms, extends from Emerald Bank to. Dale Head, guarded on the south by Maiden Moor, and High Crag, and on the north by Goldscope, and Hindsgarth. Goldscope, about two hundred years ago, was worked by7 German miners, from Augsburg, and was then, said tp produce gold and silver, of a value superior to the copper, from which it was extracted. This caused a dispute between the Earl of Northum berland, lord of the manor, and Queen Eliza beth, " and it was then pronounced as law, that, where the gold and silver extracted from the lead was of greater value than the copper or lead, the mine was a royal rnjne, and the pror perty of the crown." An act passed in the reign pf William and Mary, gave up the royal claim to mines containing gold or silver, " pro- yided, that all gold and silver that should be be extracted, should be disposed of within the Tower of London." " The mine of the New- lands was said to serve, not pnly all England, but an extensive foreign market, until the smelting houses and works were destroyed, and most of the miners slain, in the civil wars. Since 173 that event, the works have never been revived to any account." In 1757, Messrs. Gilbert, and Co. expended some money in draining the works at Goldscope, " but did not find the metal of that quality, or of a quantity sufficient to encourage them to proceed." Many trials have been made, and encouragement occasionally held forth, and, twelve years since, appearances were so favour able at the Dale Head copper mine, that the smelting mill at the intersections of Causey Pike and Barrow, was, in consequence, erected. Recently, npt only the Dale Head mine, but all the mines of lead and copper, bordering on Derwent Water, have become so unproductive as to be totally abandoned. Of the vale of Newlands, Mr. West speaks, in an enraptured strain, but in somewhat inflated language, ill suited to the feelings of an artist. t( The morning sun, beaming on the blue and yellow mountains' sides, produces effects of light and shade, the most charming that ever a son of Apelles imagined." We generally at tach the idea of yellow to a morning sun. Blue and yellow dyed in yellow, make only a green, and a deeper yellow. To blue and yellow, a painter would add red, and, were it possible to give harmony to blue and y7ellow, it must be by the fiery radiance of an evening sun. When he talks pf purple rocks, and orange hued moun tains, thpugh not presenting harmony itself, he giyes us the basis of harmony. 174 A little beyond Emerald Bank, on the side of a rivulet, is Mill Dam, a public house, sur rounded by trees, having, as a back-ground, Goldscope, Hindsgarth, and Dale Head ; — here, an extraordinary assemblage of mountains. Above Mill Dam, and spanning the stream that waters it, is a diminutive stone bridge, over which, the spectator looks upon a steep and de solate upland, crowmed with the conical sum mit of Causey Pike. Below the bridge, the the water, opposed by rocks and stones, is form ed into little falls, whose melancholy music is a grateful accompaniment to the contem plated scenes. At the top of the hill, half the way between Keswick and Buttermere, are two houses, called Birkrigg, Here is seen, over the road, Aikin Knott. On the left, surrounded by trees, is High; and across the vale, the Chapel, Little Town, Low House, and High Snab. Near the road, is Gill Brow. Looking through the semicircle formed by the intersections of Towson How, and Ro binson, more remote than Brocklebank Fell, and Newlands' Haws, appear the aerial tops of High Stile, and Red Pike. Boad Hall, is a house, in the bottom, enveloped in wood. From Boad Hall, there is a pretty peep, in the direc tion of the house, called High to Maiden Moor, High Sty, and Bull Crag. Aikin, which is somewhat in advance towards Buttermere, is graced by fine trees, chiefly ash, birch, and sy camore. Beyond Aikin, the road crosses a 175 gill, which issues from a dismal and savage cleft, bounded by the spiral mountain Towson How, and by Aikin End. Here the road ascends to Keskadale, the last houses in New- lands — these are shaded by stately sycamores, and the side of the hill is enriched by trees. Hindsgarth, shewn over a process of Robinson, is, for half a mile, a left-hand companion; there it is lost in a small grove of firs and larches. Here, in retrospect, is a delightful view of the valley, closed by the higher Cat Bells ; and, in great distance, are seen Wanthwaite Crags. Beyond the plantation, the spade and the plough ha\?e never been employed ; and, Mr. West's description of the head of this dale, al lowing a trifle for poetical fancy, is not only beautiful, but just. " Above Keskadale, the last houses in New- lands, no traces of human industry appear. All is simple nature. — The vale now becomes a dell, and the road a path. — The lower parts are pastured with a motley herd; the middle tract is assumed by the flocks ; the upper re gions, (to man inccessible) are abandoned to the birds of Jove. Here, untamed nature holds her reign in solemn silence, amidst the gloom and grandeur of a dreary solitude." Since Mr. West's time, the road through Newlands to Buttermere is considerably improved, and, ex cept on the descent from Newland's Haws to the inn, it might be used as a carriage road. 176 On the way from Keskadale to Newlands' Haws, Robinson is a magnificent elevation. Half up its side, a semicircular recess gives the idea, that, at the foot of the inward rocks, is a lodgement of waters, to which, those rocks, nearer the spectator, may be supposed to act as barriers. Probably, this was the crater of a volcano. A cataract, at the head of the dale, after heavy rain, is a spectacle of vast grandeur, either as approached, or from its foot ; its wa ters, dashing from rock to rock, foaming and fretting, are furiously hurled down the rough declivity7 to a momentary repose ; thence, less agitated, they descend to the valley, where, in gentleness of motion, they sooth the traveller in his progress upwards. Looking backward, from the top of the HawS, over the travelled country, may be observed, many jfof the buildings, woods, and mountains, already mentioned in this excursion. In the middle ground, amongst other summits, are the two Cat Bells, and the ridge extending towards Causey Pike, whose top is not here seen. At a great distance, arrises Saddleback, and much more distant, the Blue Mountains, from which, flow the rivers Tyne and Tees. Hence, the road turns" at right angles, and, in front, exhibits Mr. West's " naked furrowed mountain, of an orange hue ; which, at the head of a deep green hill, has a strange appearance amongst his verdant neighbours, and sinks, by its height, even Skiddaw itself," This moun- 177 tain is Grasmire ; biit, Skiddaw is two hundred and sixty-six feet higher than Grasmire. The vale of Newlands is less rugged than any other loftily environed valley in the country. Keskadale, excepting the steepest part of Robin son is composed of particularly even surfaces; but neither the acclivities from the cultivated parts of Newlands, nor even Keskadale itself, is half so smooth and verdant as the scene here pre sented. Whiteless Pike, and Wandup, rising to a great height, allow only a sparing view of Grasmire ; Melbreak is seen beyond Whiteless. Wandup is partially obscured by Knott Rigg, so called, from the little rocky assemblages which sport upon its green area. This displays a very good line, which is greatly improved in combination, by the addition of Wandup, and Wandup Crags, on the left; and by Brocklebank Fell, on the right. Through the screening sides of the Haws, Robinson is displayed advantageously. In the descent from the Haws to Buttermere, there are a number of grand and impressive changes ; the road is on the verge of a steep green bank ; at its bottom runs a river, which, on its way to Crummock Water, skirts the chapel, and the inn. Where the road is observed in a bend to the left, appearing under Blea Crag, there is a pretty peep at Crummock Water. From ano ther angle of the road, in great sublimity7, are seen High Stile, and Red Pike, with the con necting circle of crags, almost engulphing Blea berry Tarn. VOL. II. 2 A 17S Whiteless, Wandup, and Knott Rigg, fot their vast exhibition of upland verdure, are rarely equalled. A little in advance, " you have the greatest possible contrast in nature. Four spiral towering mountains, dark, dun, and gloomy7, at noon-day, rise immediately from the western extremity of the deep narrow dell, and hang over Buttermere."* These are Red Pike, High Stile, High Crag, and Hay Stacks, to which, may be added, as being in the same range, Green Crags, and farther off, the aspiring Gable. The chain of mountains here developed, is the most magnificent in the whole circumference of the valley. High Stile swells to an apex, truly sublime, and the whole visible horizon, from Green Crags to Red Pike, is scarcely equalled in Cumberland. The white water of Sour Milk Gill, streaming from Bleaberry Tarn, otherwise Bartness Tarn, down the rocky steep, to a narrow stripe of Buttermere Lake, may7, according to circum stances, assist in aiding or diminishing the grandeur of the scene. The road passes the chapel, and a few houses, to the inn. Che $mt at Buttermere. Perhaps, the public house at Buttermere i» more closely and deeply entrenched than the inns of Patterdale, Seathwaite, and Rosthwaite, or than any inn in England. Its eastern and western barriers are the steepest, but Fleetwith, * West. 179 at the head of the lake, seems to shut out all communication southward. The humblest ele vations are those on the north, beyond Crum mock Water, where Low Fell is seen, which se parates Lowes Water from Lorton. The lake of Buttermere, is in length one mile and a quarter, in breadth, little more than half a mile. Buttermere Moss, and Robinson, bound it on the east ; Hay Stacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, rising proudly to ft vast height, enclose it on the west. At the north end, or outlet of the lake, it is separated from Crummock Water by an enclosed and ver dant plain, beautifully ornamented with woods and hedge-row trees. This plain descends in an easy inclination from the village to the stream connecting the two lakes. Crummock Water, which is three miles long, and half a mile across, has, southward, the pleas ing flats of Buttermere ; on the west, rising abruptly from its margin, Melbreak. Ranner- dale Knott, shooting to the lake, and forming at Buttermere Haws, a bold promontory7, and nearer its foot, the land, that, in various prettily wooded swells, advances to the tugged fronts of Grasmire and Whiteside, which are its boundaries on the east. Buttermere is a good station for those whose object is the study of lakes and mountains, but it is greatly inferior to Borrowdale or Ambleside, in its supply of river scenery. At the* inn, there are several decjent lodging rooms, and the general accommodation is, at least, equal to what may reasonably be 2 A 2 180 expected at a house so remote from markets, and what is called the world. This is the place where Mary Robinson, sometimes called the Beauty of Buttermere, was, for a number of years, the unceasing object of public curiosity. Captain Budworth, iu the first edition of his Fortnight's Ramble, was the means, of bringing this inoffensive and amiable female more parti cularly into notice, under the name of #allj) of Buttermere. Had it not been for that publication, Mary of Buttermere, though not " born to blush unseen," might have avoided that. almost over whelming sea of troubles which resulted from the following harmlessly intended praise. " She brought in part of our dinner, and seemed to be about fifteen. (This was in 1792, she was then only fourteen.) Her hair was thick and long, of a dark brown, and, though unadorned with ringlets, did not seem to want them ; her face was a fine oval, with full eyes, and lips as red as vermillion ; her cheeks had more of the lily than the rose ; and, although she had never been out of the village, (and, I hope, will have no ambition to wish it) she had a manner about her, which seemed better calculated to set off dress, than dress her. She was a very Lavinia, " Seeming when unadorn'd adorn'd the most." 181 " When we saw her at her distaff, after she had got the better of her fears, she looked an angel; and, I doubt not, but she is the reign ing lily of the valley. " Ye travellers of the lakes, if you visit this obscure place, such you will find the fair Sally of Buttermere." Budworth was an honest man, and, as such, felt a compunction for the errors in which he might have unthinkingly involved an innocent and unsuspecting female. " Being among the English lakes, in January, 1798, I felt an irresistible wish to re- visit But termere, that I might see what I formerly called " the incomparable Scale Force water-fall, hound up in icicles, but my grand intention was to settle an account with my own mind." This " re- visit to Buttermere," was made with an intent to destroy the false consequence, which, in the breast of Mary, might have been sown by himself, and germinated by others. It happened, on a mirthful evening, that the captain arrived at Buttermere, he was delighted with the elegant dancing of Mary, and the good humour of the rustic assembly. " Several times, Mary, and her female friend, came down to have their own talk. I told them, I had somewhere read of a Sally of But termere, and asked which was she ? The friend replied, " my name is Sally ; but this Mary here, is the Sally the south countryman wrote about, and I love her above all the world." " Mary Robinson has really an heavenly coun tenance, but she is far from a perfect beauty, and, in a few y7ears, she may even grow too large ever to have been thought what she now is. She is nineteen, and very tall ; her voice is sweetly modulated ; and, in every point of man ners, she appeared such as might be fitted, " To shine in courts with unaffected ease." " In the morning, I told her I knew the author of " A Fortnight's Ramble," and as such, had something to say to her. She curtsied respect fully, and taking her by the hand, I began.—* Mary, I wrote it ; and rejoice in having had such an opportunity of minutely observing the propriety of your behaviour. You may remem ber, I advised you, in that book, never to leave your native valley. Your age and situation require the utmost care. Strangers will come, and have come, purposely to see j7ou, and some of them with very bad intentions. We hope, you will never suffer from them ; but, never cease to be upon your guard. You really are not so handsome as you promised to be ; and, I have long wished, by conversation like this, to do away what mischief the flattering character I gave of you may expose you to, Be merry and wise." 183 " She told me she sincerely thanked me, and said, " I hope Sir, I ever have, and trust, I al ways shall take care of myself." I then bade her farewell." i The sequel proved the truth of Mr. Bud- wrorth's prognostication, " that some would come with very bad intentions :" " A person, under the assumed character of a man of rank," deceived and married the unsuspecting Mary j but, he did not long survive his villanies. " A general respect towards her, grew out of her sufferings ; having borne them with humility, she judiciously re-settled in her native, valley." Again, she was addressed, but, by a man of character, and is no*W settled, with her husband, in a distant part of Cumberland, on an estate, possessed' by his family and name for many ge nerations. Three children are the fruits of their union. The writer, in the year 1791, being one of a party of four, on a visit to Buttermere, first saw Mary Robinson. At that time, she was thirteen ; and, to an open, honest, and pleasant looking face, then in the bloom of health, was added, the promise of a good figure. Her garb, though neat, was rustic ; but,, through it, even while so young, appeared indications of that mild dignity which was afterwards so peculiarly attractive.. Of the twelve weeks he studied in Cumber land, in the year 1794, a fortnight was spent in Buttermere. The infantine prettiness of thir- 184 teen, was now matured into beauty ; her coun tenance beamed with an indescribable sweet ness, and the commanding graces of her fine person, were equalled only by her innate good sense, and excellent disposition. It was in 1792, that she was noticed by Cap tain Bud worth, whose book appeared in 1793. If she had read, or heard his panegyric, it does not appear to have had an ill effect upon her mind, for, the unaffected simplicity, and frank ness of her manners were restrained within the strictest bounds of discretion, by her genuine modesty. Like some other mountain rustics, observed by the writer, during his residence amongst these thinly populated wilds, Mary's beauty was ripened at an early period ; for this was, probably, the period of its perfection. He saw her in 1801 ; she was then twenty- three, and, though greatly admired for her ge neral appearance and deportment, was, on the whole, infinitely less interesting than seven years before that time. In company with some brother artists, he vi sited Buttermere, in 1805, then she was a wi dow. Her features were pervaded by a me lancholy meekness, but her beauty was fled, and with it, that peculiar elegance of person, for which she was formerly celebrated. To collect subjects for the pencil, the writer of this book, was, in 1810, again in Buttermere, and for the first time alone, Mrs. Harrison, 185 then no longer the beauty of Buttermere, but the bulky wife of a farmer, blessed with much good humour, and a ready utterance, might have passed for the stately, but polite, helpmate of an estatesman dale-lander, without being suspected of once possessing charms sufficient to enforce the attention of every visitor of sen timental feeling. Ctcursum from &estoirft, to Buttermere, throtifrh Borrototjale. This road has already been described as far as Seat Oiler Bridge, in a journey from Keswick to Sty Head. At Seat OUer Bridge, the But termere road leaves that to Wast Water, and passes, two hundred yards from the bridge, the village of Seat OUer, consisting of five houses; at one of which, resides that worthy yeoman, Mr. John Fisher, brother to Mr. Isaac Fisher, silversmith, of London, and nephew of Mr. Caleb Fisher, of Grange, the "hospitable young farmer," mentioned by Mr. Gray, in his Jour nal, written in the year 1769. From Seat Oiler, to the common gate, pak, ash, birch, and larch trees, of dignified growth, not only depend towards, and beautify the road, but the river, that ripples by its side* Crossing which, on the left, a picturesque wooden bridge, deserving an artist's attention, arrests the gaze. From the open ground, over this pleasing as- VOL. II. 2 B 185 semblage of wood, appear, in retrospect, all the mountain tops, from Coatbarrow to Glaramara ; which, as the traveller advances, are by degrees developed. These are Coatbarrow, in Waten lath; High Knotts, and Wythburn Head; Goody Gill Head, and Maw Edge; on the side of which, runs Rotten Stone Gill. On the right of Maw Edge, rises that very interesting assem blage of stones, Rosthwaite Cam ; with the craggy line of summit extending thence to Coom Head, including Dove Nest, and the yawning chasm, called Coom Door. Beyond the Coom Head ridge, in swelling pride, is Glaramara. Nearer the eye, are seen the two boundaries of Seathwaite, Seat OUer Fell, and Long Crag. On the ascent of the road, are in front, Bay's Brown, Gillercomb, Naddle Endr Gillercomb Edge, Raven Crag, and Fleetwith. On looking backward, from the top of the road, on the way from Borrowdale to Butter mere, is exhibited, a very interesting combina tion of mountains. In the direction of the road, which, in various windings, descends to Seat OUer, is seen a pretty opening to the cul tivated part of Borrowdale ; above which, ascend abruptly, Yew Crags, the Knotts, and Coatbarrow; remotely distanced by the summits on the range between Wathwaite Crags, and Helvellyn. That etherial medium, which is the result of warm and dry weather, is of singular advantage to scenes of this description, - espe- 187 cially when so pure as to exhibit, while swing ing in an heavenly blue, all their component features. Proceeding from the top of the pass, Fleet- with is presented ; and, on its side, Honister Crag, one of the most stupendous rocks in Cumberland ; but, from this rugged front, is derived a slate, as smooth and valuable as any other in the island. Here, may be observed, one of those tracks, on which the slaters ascend to their daily labours. On the right, halfway down the hill, is the road to the Yew Crag quarry. A walk to this quarry, will not only furnish some amusement, but an idea of the muscular strength, and vast exertion, required of those, whose business it is to conduct the slate from the quarry to the road. From many quarries, where the descent is not particularly steep, the slate is conveyed. to the lower lands in carts. From Honister, not many years since, it was invariably brought down by men, in hurdles, placed at their backs, and, on ground so precipitous, that, those not witnessing the act, would deem it impossible. Few men are found tp possess constitutions capable of sustaining such daily rounds. of -; la bour; but those who can endure it, generally gain more than such as are less painfully, em ployed. ..-..-. 2 B 2 188 The 'Honister slate being-generally near the tttp Of the c'riag, -has, for years past, been lowered in carts on the winding traverses, made for that purpose, down the even side of the mountain ; but, as the carriage by horses, from Yew Crag, would be attended with a much greater expence, than by men, the use of the hurdle is there still continued. From the road to the^YewCrag quarry, it is a steep rise of half a mile. The average weight of the slate brought down each time, is eight hundred and ninety-six pdunds, or three and a half loads; a load is six teen stones, of sixteen pounds to the stone. The hurdle is five stones, or eighty pounds. The usual number of journies daily, to and from the quarry, is nine, or fifty-four in a. Week, , hence the weight of slate lowered to the valley in one day, is 8064, or 48,284 pounds per week. At a certain time, slate being much wanted, a person of the name of Samuel Trimmel, made fifteen journies in one day. This was, at that time, considered a very extraordinary perform ance ; Trimmel was rewarded, in addition to his price per hurdle, by the present of a bottle of rum.*'- A workman, of the name of Joseph Clark, brought down forty-two and a half loads, or 189 10,880 pounds of slate, from the quarry to the road, in one day ; but this was in seventeen journies, averaging each, two and a half loads, or 640 pounds each time, travelling over seven teen miles of the most unfavourable ground, eight miles and a half up hill, with the hurdle, eighty pounds weight, upon his shoulders. Once, but in fewer journies, he conducted forty- six loads, or 11,776 pounds in one day. On another trial, he hrought down fifteen loads at three times, in three succeeding descents, that is, 1280 pounds each time, and 3840 pounds in three times. Joseph Clark resides at Stonethwaite, in Bor rowdale, from which place to Yew Crag, a dis tance Of three miles, he walks daily. He has performed these herculean labours for several years past, without any striking inconvenience, excepting thirst, to which, others, having the same occupation are, of course, much exposed. It is supposed?, that there is scarcely another man in England capable of sustaining an equal degree of labour. One of the Honister slaters, whose name is Edward Tyson, is a poet and a painter. , Of his paintings, specimens may be seen at the inns at Scale Hill and Buttermere, Had Mr. Tyson possessed opportunities, like other men, he might have become a great artist. " A poetical Prospect of Buttermere, on the first day of May, 1816," contains some pretty lines, and much feeling for the beauties of nature ; but, 190 it most of all abounds in sentiments of unaf fected piety. " How justly then, may we admire The wond'rous works of Nature? For, every day, we are convincM There is a wise Creator." Prospect of Bullermcre. The poet is nephew to William Tyson, a wooden legged slater, who, with three sons, all excellent workmen, belong to the Honister quarries. William Tyson lost his leg at the Rigg Head slate quarry, on Scadle. Slate rocks, like the balls from cannon, have prostrat ed many a brave fellow ; numbers of lives have been lost since the writer settled in Westmor land. A club of all the northern slaters would prove greatly beneficial to widows and orphans; and, a donation, of even one farthing in the pound, from proprietors, or renters, on the an nual value of houses covered with slate from the English lakes, would produce a sum, the interest of which, would be very considerable. The road, all the way to Gatesgarth, is bor dered by huge rocks; and, in a winding course, has, on the left, the tremendous Honister, and on the right, Yew Crags, Moulds, and Gates garth Side, and at their feet, and the right of the road, a pure, but fretful stream, which, after various traverses, and boundings, falls into the peaceful lake of Buttermere. About half way down the dale, at the end of the stones 191: that have tumbled from Yew Crag, the hill is smooth and verdant. By ascending this hill two or three hundred yards, will be observed, in retrospect, Honister Crag, with its terrifying, deep, and gloomy recesses ; up or down which, with the hurdle, or slate, at his back, it would aeem impossible for any human being to travel. This is a presentation awfully sublime ; but, like others, for the impression produced on the the mind of the spectator, must depend on cir cumstances. Rain excepted, no effect could be worse than that occasioned by a fronting sun shine. A side light, either from the right or left, would exhibit, to advantage, the various point ed crags, with which its brow is crowned. The dismal solemnity occasioned by the absence of the god of day, while veiled by ponderous clouds, is highly favourable to those who de light in scenes calculated to inspire a melan choly enthusiasm. Sometimes, suddenly, as unexpectedly7, the sun, in heavenly irradiations, calls forth, into notice, many hidden beauties, thereby gladdening the eye, and the heart, of the sentimental, and refreshing the mind of the painter. How impressive such a scene ! Its proper companion is silence, here, rarely dis turbed, except by the bleating of sheep and lambs, the distant tinkling of slates and ham mers, or the responses of falling witers, which, sometimes borne upon the wings of the wind, and for a time lost, are returned, and whistled through the caverns of the savage uplands. KB town the t the left, is Lower down the vale, having the river on Buttermere, from ^atesjjartfj Sale, Mo. $\V®. This view of Buttermere has, on the left, the road at the base of Honister Crag, and the river meandering towards the lake, here seen, in a long stripe, above which, in Vast grandeur, rise- the mountains High Crag, and High Stile. Pursuing the road, the vale of Buttermere is, by degrees, opened, but much is lost to those who view in prospect only. Such as remain a few days at Buttermere, may proceed to the top of the pass beyond Yew Crag, and as far as the point where Helvellyn, and all the heights to Wanthwaite Crags are observed, and thence return over the same ground to Gatesgarth ; and, if on foot, for the sake of variety7, proceed from Gatesgarth to the head of the lake, and on its western side, under Hay7 Stack, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, to the wooden bridge between Buttermere and Crummock Waters, and up the meadows to the inn. Or, from Scale Hill, if equal to the labour, the party may gain the highest part of the road beyond Yew Crag, and return on the western side of Buttermere and Crummock Waters; or, what anay be better, commence the excursion on the 193 Western sides of Crummock and Buttermere, and return on the horse road, over good ground, to Scale Hill. " The river, also, which runs through it, and is the principal supply of the lake, is as wild as the valley itself. It has no banks, bat the frag ments of rocks; no bed, but a channel, com posed of rocky strata, among which, the water forces its cou rse. Its channel, as well as its bank, is formed of loose stones, and fragments, which break and divide the stream into a succession of wild impetuous eddies. " A stream, which is the natural source of plenty, is, perhaps, when unaccompanied with verdure, the -strongest emblem of desolation. It shews the spot to be so barren, that even the greatest source of abundance can produce no thing. The whole valley, indeed, joined in im pressing the same idea. Fruitful nature, mak ing, in every7 part of her ample range, unremit ting efforts to vegitate, could not here produce a single germin." This very beautiful account, is only in part correct. Honister Crag, though fruitful in slate, is not in grass ; but the other side of the dale is an excellent sheep pasture, which, being seen by Mr. Gilpin, through a misty7 medium, will apologise for his mistake. " As we proceeded, the grandeur of the valley increased. We had been prepared, in deed, to see the highest precipices which the vol. n. 2 c 194 country produced. Such a preface is generally productive of disappointment ; but, on this oc casion, it did no injury. The fancy had still its scope. We found the mountains so overhung with clouds, that we could form little judgment of their height. Our guide told us, they were twice as high as we could see ; which, however, we did not believe, from the observations we were able to make, as the clouds, at intervals, floated past, and discovered, here and there, the shadowy forms of the rocky summits. A great height, however, they certainly were ; and the darkness, in which they were wrapped, gave us a new illustration of the grandeur of those ideas which arise from obscurity. " Dark, confused, uncertain images, Mr. Burke very justly ob serves, have a greater power on the fancy to form the grander passions, than those which are more clear and determinate : — For, hardly any thing can strike the mind with its greatness, which, does not make some sort of approach towards infinity; which nothing can do, whilst we- are able to perceive its bounds; but, to see an object distinctly, and to perceive its bounds, is one, and the same thing. A clear idea, therefore, is another name for a little idea." The sheep farm house, and other dwellings, called Gatesgarth, stand at the end of Honister Crag, or Fleetwith, half a mile from the head of Buttermere. The cottages, on a view backward, compose excellently with the end of the craggy steep ; on the northern side of which, is a rude rock* called Raven Crag. Buttermere, anU Crummorfc Skater. No. dftftg-one. Down Fleetwith, bordered on the west by Green Crags, runs a precipitate stream, which, in full water, is a beautiful object, from the lower grounds. This view of the two lakes, is out of the bed of this pretty stream, and has, on the left, the foot of High Crag, and on the right, Hassness, with Buttermere Moss above it. North of the delectably wooded bottom separating the two lakes, is Crummock Water, bounded hy Melbreak and Rannerdale Knott, with Low Fell in distance. The readiest way tp this station is to gain the rivulet on an easy ascent from Gatesgarth. From Gatesgarth and the neighbouring lands, the mountains of Buttermere are seen, sublimely rising from the valley. Between the pointed summits of the Hay Stacks and Fleetwith, ap pear, in other pointed summits, Green Crags, High Crag swells, in towering majesty, above his neighbours, and his highest point is a splen did apex to his spiral vassals, on the left, and to High Stile, Red Pike, and Dodd, on the right. At the intersection of Hay Stacks with High Crag, is an opening, known by the name of Scarf Gap. Beyond Gatesgarth, the road borders the lake, and there presents a pleasant prospect to- 2 c 2 196 wards the outlet of Buttermere, guardpd on the left by Red Pike, Dodd, and Blea Crag. Over the Hassness woods, and more in distance, are Scale Knott, Melbreak, and Hencomb. Hassness, erected by the late Thomas Ben son, Esq., at present the residence of Captain Dover, has, in its construction, a considerable portion of elegant fancy ; it looks to the foot of the lake. From the higher grounds extending from Gatesgarth to Hassness, both the lakes maybe seen, and the connecting- woody flat. Melbreak is, from this place, in distance, a con siderable feature. Above Hassness, descending from Butter mere Moss, are those high and perpendicular rocks, called Gate Crags, which, surrounded by7 oaks, and ashes, rather than larches, would beautify7 the neighbourhood. Near the house, there are some native trees, but the new plants are chiefly exotic. Hassness is one mile from the inn at Butter mere ; the road to it has, in back- view over Fleetwith, Green Gable, and afterwards great Gable. dfrom Sestowfe to ^rale m\l Scale Hill is ten miles from Keswick, by Whinlatter and Swinside; but, through the vale of Lorton, from eleven to twelve. 197 The road over Whinlatter to Cockermouth, Whitehaven, and Scale Hill, leaves that round Bassenthwaite, at the village of Braithwaite, two miles and a half from Keswick, and is thus far noticed in the excursion round the lake of Bas senthwaite. Braithwaite, consisting of about a dozen houses, is situated at the foot of Whinlatter ; to the top of which, from Braithwaite, it is a steep ascent of two miles and a quarter. At a turn of the road, where it begins to rise, is a fine retrospect, over the village, of the rich agricultural plains advancing from Keswick to wards Bassenthwaite, including a peep at Der went Water, having, on its right, Swinside, and beyond Wallow Crag, the heads of mountains bounding St. John's vale on the east. Wan thwaite Crags are the principal. Through the opening that divides Latrigg and Wanthwaite Crags, is remotely seen M ell Fell. On the hill side south of Braithwaite, is Braithwaite Lodge, some years ago, rendered a comfortable habitation, by Martin Stapylton, Esq. For, an assemblage of beautiful objects, con sisting of fertile fields and meadows, elegantly graced by trees, and buildings half concealed by them, few places have greater fascinations, than the scenes in retrospect, on the way to the summit of the hill, and especially those which repose beneath the stupendous Skiddaw. But IDS this delightful valley, and its surrounding ele vations, are viewed to greater advantage on de scending, than in ascending Whinlatter. The picture, three miles and three quarters from Keswick, is the last, but, perhaps, the most va luable in the way from Braithwaite. Here, again, is displayed, the happy valley, and the foot of Derwent Water, with Derwent Isle, Lord's Island, Isthmus, and the town of Kes wick, all screened between Swinside and Lat rigg. Here, Skiddaw and Helvellyn are in full view, and connecting those sublime mountains, Saddleback, (partly hidden by Latrigg) Mell Fell, Wanthwaite Crags, St John's Dodd, Stybar- row Dodd, Styx, and Whiteside, and nearer the eye, and rising from Derwent Water, Wallow Crag, Falcon Crag, and Bleaberry Fell. One hundred yards higher than the above stand, is another, where, in deep, but delightful vision, is seen, nearly the whole lake of Bassenthwaite, with the waving enclosures reaching from Mire house to Bassenthwaite Halls. The upland boundaries of the lake are, on the left. Thorn thwaite Fell, on the right, Longside and Dodd. Binsey is beyond the lake. Deeply below the spectator, stretching to the lake, are the pro fusely wooded lands, including the village of Thornthwaite, with Jenkin Hill. The road to Bassenthwaite, by Mirehouse, is marked by Long Close, Dancing Gate, and Lyzick. From the fourth mile-stone, Grisedale Pike is on the left of the road, two miles. 199 The highest part of the road over Whinlatter, is four miles and three quarters from Keswick. Thence, for several miles, it lies over a treeless waste, bordered by7 tame and uninteresting hills, in high contrast with the expanded scenes of cultivation extending from Keswickto Arma- thwaite. But, as beauty is only7 beauty by com parison with other objects less beautiful, this barren district serves as a foil to that glorious burst of scenery, prepared for the traveller, from Cockermouth to Keswick. Near the sixth mile-stone, the eye is relieved from the monotonous exhibition in prospect, by a glance on the left, up a rugged valley, to Hob carten Cove, presenting on the right of that cove, in sweeping lines, Hobcarten Crag, and Lady Side Pike. Scarcely a quarter of a mile past the sixth mile-stone, a road branches from the one to Cockermouth, and it is that, which pilgrims of taste, on foot, on horseback, and even in their carriages, pass, on their way to see Crummock Water, Low's Water, and Buttermere. Though this road along Swinside, is neither wide, nor well made, on its leaving the public road, nor encouraging in scenic indications, yet, having passed the bridge, and ascended the hill, its ex plorer is charmed with a sudden and extraor dinary change. A considerable portion of the vale of Lorton, extending from Scale Hill to Cockermouth, first shewing, in extreme dis tance, the Scottish mountain, Ben Garon, and more in advance, Serif ell, w ith a range of infe- 200 rior heights between them. The village of High Lorton, nearest the spectator, is seen on the east side of the vale ; and Low Lorton, standing under Low Fell, on the banks of the river Cocker, on the west. The Church, in the midst of a wood, appears between these villages. Seats, farm houses, and cottages, surrounded by trees, are pleasantly scattered over this charming agricultural district, which, distanced by an horizon of blue, is an animating spectacle, and beautifully in contrast with that grand scenery, which is the object and the appropriate reward of this journey. Seven miles from Keswick, at the head of the vale, rise Dodd and Low Fell, through whose pretty opening, Melbreak is presented, with its soft side rising from Crummock Water, and its craggy end from Low's Water ; between Mel break and Low Fell, Hencomb, Calling Knott, Blake Fell, Gable, Herdhouse, and Sea, carry the eye into remote distance. Starling Dood shews its top between Melbreak and Dodd. At the common gate, near the house, called Hope, to a rude set of spiral tops, rise Hope Gill Crags, Moulton, Cold Fell, and Dodd. This view is over a corner of Swinside, but not the Swinside near Keswick. Swinside, Swin- dale, Sty Head, Stybarrow, and other swinish names so often recurring in this laking country7, it may reasonably be supposed to have been the ancient seat of the swinish multitude. Hogs are, however, here, at present, not more com mon, than in flat countries, neither are the men 201 or the women hoggish ; but a shrewd, and gene rally a civil set of people. From Hope, passing Hope Beck, and other houses, the road, after making some right an gular turns, joins that from. Cockermouth, one mile short of Scale Hill. This is the junction of the short and circuitous roads from Keswick over Whinlatter to Scale Hill, or to Buttermere. The long road leaves that from Keswick and Cockermouth, at the famous Yew Tree, seven miles and a half from the former place. In Hutchinson's History of Cumberland, this Yew Tree, with others, are thus noticed. " The Yew Tree delights in this situation, .it is com- raon even on the sides of the fells. In High Lorton, there is one of a surprising size, spread ing its branches on every side, to a great dis tance, covering, with its shade, above three hundred feet in circuit." A quarter of a mile beyond the meeting of the above roads, one on the left leads to But termere. The Scale Hill road, low and confin ed, has little in prospect, till it reaches Scale Hill, where the baclc view on the rugged fronts Dodd, Whiteside, and Grasmire, is full of vast- ness- and sublimity. Scale Hill is a commodious and respectable house, it is well situated for excursions to the VOL. II. 2 D «02 three rieighhouring lakes; Buttermere, Crum mock Water, aud Lowes Water ; and likewise to Ennerdale. Persons on an excursion of one day only, some on foot, others on horseback, and some in carriages, arriving from Keswick, over Whin latter, at Scale Hill, take a boat at the outlet of Crummock Water, and, having seen that lake, and Scale Force, proceed to the inn at Butter mere; whence pedestrians usually return to Keswick through the vale of Newlands. But, those with horses, or in carriages, may be met by their conveyances at Buttermere : those on horseback may use their pleasure in returning to Keswick through Newlands, or pacs through Gatesgarth Dale, under Honister Crag, to Ros thwaite, and thence by Bowder Stone to Kes wick. This is a line affording a wonderful di versity of prospect, and all to the best advant age, except from Bowder Stone to Keswick ; but, the stone having been first seen, in a de viation round Derwent Water, Skiddaw will be exhibited with agreeable middle distances on the road from Grange, by Lowdore, to Kes wick. Parties must, of necessity^ return by Whinlatter, if travelling in carriages, but, if open, they will have the benefit of seeing the lake of Crummock, both bv land and water. From Scale Hill to the boat, it is a walk of nearly a mile. On this walk, the views towards the head of the lake are singularly beautiful. At Bertie's Cave, which acts with the border ing trees, as a fore-ground, the Buttermere 203 mountains are observed through the vista form ed by those environing Crummock Water. From the boat, Grasmire appears a huge misshapen mass; but the best features of the lake are seen by looking southward ; or, upon the western mountains ; the latter being excellently dis played between Rannerdale Knott and Mel break, and in the finest arrangement by skirting the Brackenthwaite coast to the flat fields at Rannerdale. By landing occasionally, and tra versing the higher ground, fore-grounds may be added to this admirable distances Opposite Rannerdale, there is, at the foot of Melbreak, a little rocky promontory, called Ling Crag, which, after much rain, is an island. The boat must steer from Rannerdale to this promontory, from which, the party, by ascend ing two or three hundred yards, may observe, in a new and excellent combination, the two lakes of Crummock and Buttermere, separated by the divinely wooded, and fertile bottom, sp strongly in contrast with the rugged and majes* tic mountains with which it is environed. Like the castle of a race of giants, Fleetwith, with the embattled Honister at its side, is a stately distance, and flanked on the west by the de pending sides of High Stile, and the neighbour ing uplands, and on the east, by Robinson, is a composition displaying a .singular mixture of sublimity and beauty. No. 39 of the small etchings. By passing from this place, in an horizontal direction, northward to such a ppiot as to pro- 2 d 2 201 duce, in a line with the spectator, Ling Crag and Green Gable; will be discovered Crummetlt abater, anK Buttermere. Wo, jftftp-tioo. In this scene, to Robinson, on the eastern side, is given Rannerdale Knott ; and over Fleetwith, Great and Green Gable; the two lat ter not in view from the former place. Unless to those unlimited by time, the latter place need not be noticed, except the party land five or six hundred yards north of Ling Crag, and having seen the last mentioned subject, proceed to that above Ling Crag. From Ling Crag, the boat will pass to the landing place, for a walk to Scale Force, hereafter to be de scribed. Returning from Scale Force, the boat will, at their pleasure, conduct the party to the meadows joining the connecting river, or to the carriage road at the head of the lake. df rom Iteshwft, to tfje Kmt at Buttermere. On the road from Keswick to Scale Hill, three quarters of a mile short of the latter place, on the left, is that deviating to Buttermere. On this road, a little ih advance, stands a sub stantial dwelling, called Low House. Lang- thwaite Green, a small village, a mile .beyond 203 Low House, is on the side of the common, there a smooth and verdant pasture, and highly in contrast to the furrowed and ferruginous sides of Whiteside and Grasmire, rising stupen dously above it. Grasmire and Whiteside are separated by a frightful chasm, which, fifty- eight years ago, was the channel of a tremen dous water spout. The English lakes seem to have been pecu liarly visited by these terrifying inundations, of such, several are already described. In these awful visitations, the vallies are the channels of the fallen, seldom of the falling wa ters. They are generally deposited on the sum mits of the mountains, where the rains are, in common, not only more sudden, and unexpect ed, but much heavier than in flat countries. Mr. Gilpin's description of this desolating water spout; will be read with interest, as com bining great accuracy with language of un common elegance. " On the 9th of September, 1760, about mid night, the water spout fell upon Grasmire, nearly as was conjectured, where the three little streams, just mentioned, issue from their foun tains. At first, it swept the whole side of the mountain; and, charging itself with all the rub bish it found there, made its way into the vale, following chiefly the direction of the Lissa. At the foot of the mountain, it was received by a piece of arrable ground, on which its vio- 209 Jence first broke. Here, it tore away trees, soil, and gravel, and laid all hare, many feet in depth, to the naked rock. Over the next ten acres, it seems to have made an immense roll, covering them with so vast a bed of stones, that no human art can ever again restore the soil. " When we saw the place, though twelve years after the event, many marks remained, still flagrant, of this scene of ruin. We saw the natural bed of the Lissa, a mere contracted ri vulet, and, on its banks the vestiges of a stony channel, spreading far and wide, almost enough to contain the waters of the Rhine, or the Danube. Tt was computed, from the flood marks, that in many parts, the stream, must have been five or six yards deep, and near a hundred broad ; and, if its great velocity be added to this weight of water, its force will be found equal to almost any effect. On the banks of this stony channel, we saw a few scattered houses, a part of the village of Brackenfliwaite, which had a wonderful escape. They stood at the bottom of Grasmire, rather on a rising ground ; and, the current taking its first direc tion towards them, would haVe undermined them in a few moments, (for the soil was instantly laid bare) had not a projection of native rock, the interior stratum, on which the houses had, unknowingly, been founded, resisted the cur rent, and given it a new direction. Unless this had intervened, it is probable, these houses, and all the inhabitants of them, (so instantaneous Was the ruin) had been swept away together. 207 In passing farther along the vale, We saw other marks of the fury of the inundation ; where bridges had been thrown down, houses carried off, and woods rooted up ; but, its effects upon a stone causeway, were thought the most sur prising. This fabrick was of great thickness, and supported on each side by an enormous bank of earth. The memory of man could trace it unaltered, in any particular, near a hun dred years ; but, by7 the soundness and firmness of its parts and texture, it seemed as if it had stood for ages-. It was almost a doubt, whether it were a work of nature, or of art. This massy mole, the deluge not only carried off, but, as if it turned it into sport, made its very foundations the channel of its own stream. " Having done all this mischief, not only7 here, but in many other parts, the Lissa threw all its waters into the Cocker, where an end was put to its devastation ; for, though the Cocker was unable to contain so immense an increase, yet, as it flows through a more level country, the deluge spread far and wide, and wasted its strength, in one vast stagnant inundation." At Langthwaite Green, the road to Butter mere is joined by that from Scale Hill. On an eminence, half way between the inn and this junction, is exhibited a panarama of the sur rounding country. The river Cocker is seen,' winding through the pleasantly variegated vale of Lorton, rich in corn, in pasturage, and in woods, — rich in the prosperity produced by their management, and rich in ah the pretty 2C8 villages, and farms, receding from each other in their progress northward. Halfway down the the dale, descending on the side of Whinlatter, appears the road from Keswick. Grasmire, swelling to the clouds, (which it invariably ar rests when lowering) blocking up the wester;?. side of Crummock Water, is heightened in ma jesty, by comparison with his inferior, though aspiring dependents, Rannerdale Knott, and by Whiteside, which is separated from Grasmire by the grinning chasm of the water spout. From this stand, is presented, nearly all Crummock Water; and, though not one cheer-" ing stripe of Buttermere, the whole of its en circling mountains. Ranneidale Knott shoots boldly7 to the water, and over it, aspires Buttermere Moss, and Fleetwith ; at a considerable distance, Great Gable, Green Gable, and Kirk Fell; and in still greater distance, Rosthwaite Cam, and Sea Fell Pikes. Next claim attention, the western bar riers of Buttermere, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, and bounding the western side of Crummock Water, Melbreak, whose rocky end over-looks the pretty pastoral vale of Low's Wa ter ; in which are planted the Church, and many excellent houses, the residence of opulent yeo men, who, either from taste or chance, are sur rounded by the most delightful groves of trees. Not one scrap of the lake of Low's Water can be seen from this place, being hidden by Low Fell, which separates it from the vale of Lorton. 209 - Though the above elevation displays a plea sant variety7, yet it is not equal to many others of its kind, even for bird's eye prospects, and as furnishing subjects for the pencil, its situation is too high; All the way from Scale Hill to the foot of Crummock Water, and thence on its margin to Rannerdale the scenery is very fine, but ob served with additional advantages from the higher grounds, where, to the grandeur of the mountains, is added more of the lake, enriched with a number of pleasantly wooded bays, and desirable fore-grounds of rocks, and trees-j some of these are in a direct line with the above panoramic stand, and that end of Rannerdale Knott,; where it dips boldly into the water.* In this direction, those rude and swelling side-lands, Rannerdale Knott, and Melbreak, open, over the lake, a passage for the eye, to the Buttermere mountains, High Crag, and High Stile, crowned by Red Pike, a combina tion of almost unequalled magnificence. The vast elevations of Buttermere, though differently, may be elegantly associated with the near and middle-grounds, from the road, or on its borders, in progress from Langthwaite Green to Rannerdale Knott,; arriving at which, are the hew and the old roads. The new road has been cut, at a great expence, through the rock; and it is now nearly horizontal. This lower end of the. Knott is called Buttermere Haws; on whi ch, the road, to a considerable height^ an- VOL. II. 2 E 210 eiently ascended ; and, like other steep accli vities, in many sudden turnings. From the top of the Haws, is displayed, an entire new scene of the Buttermere mountains. The two lakes of Crummock and Buttermere are here in view, and the intermediate valley, which, scarcely in its whole circumference, appears so agreeably bestrewed with trees ; amongst these trees is observed only one solitary dwelling, called Woodhouse. Buttermere Moss rises on the left, and High Crag and High Stile on the right, partly shutting out Honister Crag and Fleetwith. Great and Green Gable are most remote. ¦. But, this presentation, superb as it is, is not equal in composition to those between, Scale Hill and R innerdale ; the screening mountains being disproportioned, and too lofty for those at the head of the lake. Red Pike still sup ports its dignity, and his son Dodd adds an agreeable variety to the line, as it is lowered to the vale. From Red Pike, at the end of a de^ scending line, is Blea Crag ; below which, is the Scale Force water-fall. 1 he whole length of Mel- breakj rising out of Crummock Water, is suc ceeded on the north by the pretty, soft, and re posed scenery of Low's Water, with Low Fell, its gentle upland over-looker. From Langthwaite Green, the road to Ran nerdale Knott is seen almost uninterruptedly. Grasmire, " the Skiddaw of the vale," is partly hid by a grand projection of Rannerdale Knott. 211 From the top of the Haws to the meeting of the old and new roads, it is scarcely half a mile ; to which meeting, on his way to Buttermere, the traveller may either proceed, or retrace his steps to the bottom of the hill, and, pursuing the new road, (which is excellently made, and amusing in its prospects) join the old road at the head of the lake. Crummortt Water* No. dFtftiHhrre. This grand concatenation of parts has, on the right, the fine knoll spread over with trees, which extends from Woodhouse to the head of the lake ; graced here by two pretty islands, be yond which, ascend High Stile, Red Pike, and Dodd. The road from the head of the lake to the inn, is chiefly through woods, shewing but sparing prospects of the mountains. But, the lake of Buttermere composes well from the rocky and trep-ed hill on the right, called Long How. Having conducted the tourist to the inn, at Buttermere, through Newlands and Borrowdale, and over Whinlatter, not only to Buttermere, but to the inn, at Scale Hill, it remains, only to describe those excursions, and scenes, in their vicinity, which have not yet been noticed. The Chapel at Buttermere, though one of the ~akes, is 2 E 2 smaUest among the lakes, is sufficient to contain 212 the families within its chapelry. Mr. West says, " The Chapel here, is very small, the stipend not large, for, though twice augmented, with the Queen's bounty, it exceeds not twenty pounds per annum. This is one of the cures Mr. Pennant mentions, but the perquisites of the clog shoes, harden sark, whittle gate, and goose gate, have no better support than in some ancient, and probably idle tale." Mr. West died forty years ago. The History of Cumberland, by Mr. Hutchinson, was pub lished in 1796, in which, concerning the Chapel of Secmnrthy, (mentioned by the writer, in his excursion round Bassenthwaite) are the foUow- ing interesting particulars. " Before its augmentation, the reader of di vine service, had a precarious income, sometimes not exceeding twenty shillings a year, in money payment; but, an actual custom subsisted, for several years, of allowing the poor minister a 'whittle gate. He was privileged to go from house to house, in the chapelry7, and to stay a certain number of days at each place, where he was permitted to enter his whittle, or knife, with the rest of the people of the household, and to share the provisions prepared for the use of the family. This custom has been abolished, in such modern times, that it, is in the memory of many persons now living. The holy man's conversation and offices, amply repaid the ber nevolence of the family ; by example and pre cept, he inculcated into the younger minds, principles of religion and morality ; and> by 213 impartial council and advice, prevented many errors in the elders." Edward Tyson, with a religious feeling, says of Buttermere Chapel, 11 You'll see old men, with tottering limbs And heads as white as snow, Ascend this rook, to meet their God, From whom all blessings flow." &ounS3( Buttermere Eafee, from t$e Suit. The objects presented in this encircling pe rambulation, will be viewed most pleasingly, by skirting its eastern side, from the outlet to the head of the lake. The way to the outlet of Buttermere, is down the meadows, to a wooden bridge, crossing the connecting river, half way between the waters of Crummock and Butter mere. Having passed the bridge, and turned to the left, a walk of half a mile will bring the pedestrian to the stony margin of the lake. Great choice of fore-ground is here offered to the grand, and finely lined mountain, Fleetwith, here, holding a principal place in the distance. Hassness; with its rich woods, is descried at the foot of Robinson. Those who wish to study rocks, and headlong waters, will find them in wonderful diversity at Sour Milk GUI, which, after fretting down the 214 steep mountain, is reposed in the waters of But termere. An upland scramble on the margin of this frothy stream, will repay the undismayed lover, or the artist. Sour Milk Gill falls from Burtness Tarn, which lies between Red Pike and High Stile. Between High Stile and High Crag, is a grand circular chain of rocks, called Burtness Cove, in which the Buttermere eagles formerly built their nests, and, like those in Borrowdale, in places inaccessible to the footsteps of man. An expedient similar to that in Borrowdale, by means of ropes, for securing the eggs or eaglets, was resorted to in Buttermere. The following account of the Buttermere eagles is from a recent verbal communication, by Mr. John Vicars, to the writer. Mr. John Vicars was born in Borrowdale, but lived a long time with his late father, Mr. Mat thias Vicars, while he managed the great sheep farm, at Gatesgarth, in Buttermere. Mr. Vicars twice robbed the eagles of their young ; and on one occasion at the imminent danger of his life. The rope, sixty-five yards long, on his being drawn up, having a knot in the middle, was arrested by a clint (crack) in the rock, to which, with an eaglet sixteen and a half pounds weight, tied to his back, he had no other re source than that of ascending by his hands, the space something overhanging from the nest to the crack. Having gained land, he afterwards, 215 with the assistance of the rope, reached his friends in safety. The destruction of the parent birds was often attempted,; by gun shot, but. unsuccessfully, till from an ambush station, behind a stone, at the head of Buttermere Water, Mr. J. Vicars, nearly thirty years, ago, shot at, and wounded both the eagles at the same time ; one being descried im mediately behind the other. The eagles were afterward found dead, one at Gillerthwaite, and the other in Larapleugh. On advancing, the mountains assemble less elegantly than from any other place on the bor ders of the lake ; nor do the scenes from the lower lands' at its head deserve:, attention ; nor, from the side of Fleetwith, until both lakes can be observed at the same time. One of these points was noticpd in a deviation from Gates garth farm house, and likewise the road from Gatesgarth to the inn. ¦ »¦ -tit .;¦ •¦ From an eminence, called Hartley Hill, lying between the inn and Bowderbeck, a farm house, there is a sweet view of the lake of Buttermere, with a middle ground of well disposed woods. Fleetwith, with Honister on its side, as observed with an eye to composition, is its distance ; over which, and Green Crags, are seen Great and Green Gable. The vast pile extending from Green Crags, and Hay Stacks, to Blea Crag, (the latter overlooking Scale Force) is a majes tic combination. The village, with its inn, is a pretty collection of buildings, and finished into 216 a picture by the woods at Long How, a peep at Crummock Water, and by Melbreak. The mountains observed from the door of the inn,, beginning eastward, are Rannerdale Knott, Grasmire, Whiteless Pike, and Whiteless ; and beyond the intersections of the latter two, Wan dup. Buttermere Moss appears on the right, and between it and Whiteless, Knott Rigg. J^tale #oree. The wray to Scale Force, in a land deviation from Crummock Water, has been noticed in the aquatic movement from Scale Hill to Butter mere. From the inn at Buttermere, two miles, those on foot must pass to the bridge (already men tioned) over the river, which runs from lake' to lake ; all the way from this bridge to the gate, near the stream, connecting the water-fall1 and lake, is in a most miserable condition, and in wet weather full of beau/traps, as Budworth calls them. These are stones lying loosely in beds of mud, which, trod upon hastily and care lessly bespatter the passenger from head to foot. This filthy road is avoided, by taking a boat- at the mouth of the connecting river, and landing on the northern bank of that proceeding from the cascade; whence, though it is not good' from the meeting of these roads, it is better than tliafe from the bridge, and; in a dry season, its only 217 fault is being stony. An instantaneous burst on scenes of beauty, or of grandeur, is greatly to be preferred to their gradual deVelopement. Scale Force might be thus observed : first, by improving the road, from the bridge, two hun dred yards, and thence cutting a new path dia gonally to the Wall, hiding the foot of the lower of the falling waters. Through this wall there ought to be a door, and a fair passage from it to the best stand. Scale' Force is sixty yards high. Mr. Cros thwaite says, " it falls one hundred and fifty-; two feet within six degrees of perpendicular ;" but, above this, there are several little falls. After many dry days, Scale Force suggests the idea of a White ribband, stretched upon a piece of black velvet. In such a season, a visit through the awful chasm (one hundred yards in length) towards the foot of the fall, will not only please the eye, but the ear : for, while the one is enchanted with the spectacle, the other with the responses produced by it, is charmed with a " concord of sweet sounds," altogether •' most musical, most melancholy." f f The Walls of this extraordinary excavation are; in places, perperidieular, and in others, overhang ing. Dun,' and gloomy1, they serve as foils to the most lively7 and verdant ferns, grass, and mosses,^ and to the trees, which, growing from their chinksj and putting forth ; their branches, debut dimly s,h£W day- Hghr, through thfe; pen dant foliage. ' v; vol. 11. 2 F 218 There is a lower fall, which, succeeding cer tain quantities of rain, is very beautiful ; but, for that beauty, more is required; than in aid of the mellifluous warblings of the upper fall. But, covering the rocks tp the desired extent, it is wonderfully aided by the upper fall, which, in volved in gloom, and consequently lowered in tone, is not only a fine apex, but an elegant contrast to the spreading waters, and the spark ling lustre of the lower fall. After much rain, the waters swell out of a pleasing littleness, into a sublime breadth ; then they are hurried through the narrow channel, with an impetuosity seemingly sufficient to rend in twain the mountain. In a moderate, or in a voluminous, flow, this- water- fa]J, with its splendid accompaniments, presents, one magnificent combination. ^Trom the Enn at 3$uttermere, routrtj (Crummoffe Skater. If this excursion is commenced on the western side of the Jake, the way to it is that just de scribed, as far as the, river issuing from Scale Force. Here, the most enormous ofthe moun tains observed, is Grasmire, which, ill shapen,j and striped with brown and orange, is not an, artist-like object. It rises from the pleasant, fields at Brackenthwaite and Rannerdale. Ran nerdale Knott, swelling grandly from the waterj partly7 hides .the misshapen Grasmire, Pn the left Of which, is seen a little of Whiteside. Over the highest part of Rannerdale Knott is Whiteless Pike, having on eacJh side, Wandup and Whiteless. ' '¦ ' From this place, the road is direct to Ling Crag, the little rocky prpmoruory before rnen- tioned. The' ground to be passed from the wooden bridge between the' lakes to Ling 'Crag', and a little-' beyond it, is good for 'mah, and horses, in dry weather only ;' after much rain, it is impassable ''for horses, and travellers on foot, unless booted two feet high, will find'theml selves exceedingly uncomfortable. ' The writer, in ah 'hoVseba'ck expedition, with Mr. Jonathan Otleyv passed this way. The ground was be* tweer/ the two extremes. Their' progress was slow between the bridge and the stream, and in danger of being bogged between the stream and the crag. The margin of the .lake is, perhaps, the best passage. '-. '¦'¦«» *'*' ¦' ' '" * ¦ , The scenes from the side of Melbreak, two or'three hundred yards above Ling1 Crag,, and thence northward, have been already described. A little in advance from Ling Crag, a rock pro jects into the .water, on the. top of which, is a good footpath : horses maybe letl over' it, but the usual way is in the water, in which', how ever, are large stones, but these stones being plainly seen through the liquid element, by these sagacious animals, tliey ; seldom make a trip. Haifa mile beyond this place, there is 2FJ 220 an excellent retrospect on Fleetwith, Honister Crag, Great and Green GaMo, with Rannerdale Knott,, on the left, and High Crag, High Stile, Dodd, and Red Pike, on the right. This assem blage is from the road, and shows a little of the flat fields at Buttermere ; but, from a more ele vated point, the scene would be improved, ~ A, mile and a half from Ling Crag, generally Over goodground, the road passes some houses, called High and Low Park. Around'these (dwellings, from, various stands, there, ^re^, some excellent views of Crummock Water. ,, From the park, by Low's Water Smithy,, over une: qual ground, 'through a)(delightfully -wooded country ^ and in the view of majestic mountains, it is one mile to , fhp inn, at Scale, Hill, from which inn, on the way to, Buttermere, [the tine scenery has already been described. '., l.-ll.' ifli.V 1 :C Oil ' , . :¦ I {>){,¦ ... - Wilt Knit at ^rale J#IL ;' c 1 Scale Hilh^s weU plan tech fpr excursions on horseback, oron foot, to the lakes, of Crummock, Low's Water, or Butt?rmerer and the delights of Crummock Water, by boating. The most attractive objects environing Crum mock Water and Buttermere, have been de scanted in a movement from the inns at Scale Hill and Buttermere. Such as are in the neighbourhpod of Scale Hill, will next be no ticed. sai Houm fcoto's Water, from ^eale J&tn* Low's Water is something more than a mile long, but scarcely half a mile in breadth. It is not easy to determine, whether, by first travelling the, western or the eastern side pf this little lake, its beauties will be most beneficially observed : perhaps the western side is preferable to the eastern. . From the inn, (down hill to the bridge, and thence up hill, by the smithy) it is three quar ters, of a mile to the church, an ancient and picturesque building, and the place where the once celebrated beauty of Buttermere was mar ried. Near the church, is a public house. From* the chapel, over the bridge, and by Kirk Head, it is half a mile to the common, where, under the rugged end of Melbreak, at the distance of a mile, is Seen Low's Water, at each end bordered by delightful;groves of trees. Carling Knott, on the left, and Low Fell, on on the light, shelter it on the east and west. On the north it is enclosed, and the elevations are humble. This is a delightful sylvan scene, and highly in contrast to such as have latterly been noticed. Hence, the way to the lake is by Bargate, Steal Bank, Mill Hill, High Nook, and, Water Yeat, a number of farms and cottages, which, picturesque in themselves, finely graced 292 by trees, and having stately mountains as their back-grounds, are well deserving the attention of the cottage artist. Oh the verge of the lake, engroved in trees, Water Yeat, in conjunction with Whiteside, is a pleasing subject. Three hundred yards in advance from Water Yeat, looking backward on the wooded en closures at the foot of the lake, with* Melbreak beyond the buildings and trees, Low Fell,' on the left, and Whiteside and Grasmire- in the opening over the fields; isa:desirable'assem-blage. But, a combination, at oriee grand, beautlful,- and excellently composed, is out of the channel of the river, between the water-fall on the side of Carling Knott and the lake. The embanked stream, with the stPnes and trees sporting on -its margin, as a fore-ground, is succeeded by7 groups of other trees spreading towards the lake, here observed, in a delectable quantity, with its -op-' posite banks beautifully enclosed and ornament ed with buildings and wood. Over this cheerful expanse of cultivation, in vast grandeur, rises Grasmire, displayed from Low's Water, in elc-' gant lires, and strikingly in contrast to its ap-' pearance from the head of Crummock Water. Whiteless, on the right, and Whiteside, on the left, the latter partially obscured, by Low Fell, give a splendid finish to this scene. The road on the western side of Low's Water is good in dry weather, and at all times, much superior to that under Melbreak, on the banks of Crummock Water. Having passed on the side of the lake to the Water-fall stream, it is 223 thencp over fields, to a lane leading up hill to some houses, called Water End. In 1816, at one of these houses, was commit ted an audacious robbery, .but the thieves were taken, and two of them hanged. Water End is a name common to this place, and; to, other houses standing on the banks of the river, near the head; of , the lake. , ; . i • : ; From a round hill, on the right, a little be yond the highest house, there is an enchanting prospecti over the pretty hamlet, and Low's Water, to a small stripe ot Crummock Water, separated by that elegant assemblage of en closures, which, in every direction, so pleasingly salute. the eye. , . The side screes are Low Fell and Carling Knott. Melbreak, not assisting in the last composition, is here a striking feature. Gras mire, with Whiteside on its left, towers grandly from Crummock Water. From Grasmire, on the west, gradually receding into distance, are Whiteless, Ranneijdale Knott, Buttermere Moss, and Robinson. .) High, t>tile, in distance, has on each side, Melbreak,) and Cabling Knott.: ;Oii the right of , Carhng Knott, but claiming. ! no share in this arrangement, is Burn Bank, with a stone man upon ih, summit. • f From Water End* it is a quarter of a mile to the. common, and bjaif a mile to the joining of this road with that by. Ennerdale and Calder Bridge, to Wast .Water, But, in this excursion round 234 Low's Water, the road is on the right from AVater End to the public road, which, on an abrupt descent to the lake, by the lower Water End houses, has in view, the rich landscape en circling Low's Water. Some of the most desirable views of this little lake, are to be observed out of the fields lying between the higher and the lower Water End. Two mountains, Honister Crag, and Red Pike, often mentioned before, but not yet presented in this round, are upon the left and right of Mel break, on the descent from village to village. All this steep bank is excellently wooded, and the trees, as immediate foreground's, may be used at pleasure by the draftsman. One of these views is Soto's Water. No. tftttjHour. This scene shows Melbreak, (the hill par tially obscured by mist) over the enclosures ex tending to it from the lake. On the right, is Red Pike, and on the left, Rannerdale Knott, and, in extreme distance, Honister Crag. From Lower Water End, the road is on the bank of the lake, partly over a common, but it enters enclosed ground at Cr-abtr-ee beck, whence it is a mile to the smithy. In Low's Water, a number of respectable and well educated yeo men reside, on their own estates, in houses 225 planted in very pleasant situations. That part of the chapelry, lying south of Low Fell parti cularly the space extending from High Cross to Foul Sike, commands of Crummock Water, a scene extraordinary in its combination, and in its parts luxuriant and grand: from the specta tor to the lake, the eye is cheered with fields of the richest pasturage, over which, accident has scattered woods and trees, in a disorderly wild- ness, worthy imitation : from the outlet of the lake, rise Berties woods, out-topped by Gras mire ; opposite to which, Melbreak springs boldly from the water. Receding from these guardian mountains, in a lengthened perspec tive, on the side of Crummock Water, are Whiteless, and Rannerdale Knott. On the west of Buttermere, Red Pike, High Stile, and High Crag ; on the east, Robinson ; and on the south part. of Fleetwith, and aerial by distance, Green Gable and Great Gable. €nnero'ale Mater. From Keswick, those in pursuit of the scenery on Ennerdale Water, generally go by way of Buttermere, or Scale Hill, i from which places, to Ennerdale, the passages, in skeleton, have been, already given- One near road, and that for foot and horse people only, is by Floutern Tarn ; the way to which, is by the wooden bridge below Red Pike, and over the vile road under Blea Crag, to VOL. II. 2 G 226 Scale Force, having, on the right, Scale Knott' Melbreak, and Hencomb, and the left, Gale Fell, and Herd House ; it is about two miles and a half to Floutern Tarn, and a mile and a half, more, having Floutern Pike on the right, to the road half way between Crosdale and the lake. From Scale Hill, one foot or horse way is by Low's Water Chapel, and Kirk Head, to Mel break, which keeping on the left , and Hen comb on the right, proceed through a tame and treeless Valley, called Mosedale, and, having entered the avenue from Buttermere, turn on the right to Floutern Tarn, and afterwards id Ennerdale. The distance from Scale Hill to Ennerdale differs little with that from Butter mere to Ennerdale, being, from each place, about six mfles. There are three other foot ways frorn Scale Hill, to Ennerdale Water, all separating beyond High Nook, which is near the foot of Low's Water. The way to High Nook is, first on the public road towards Low's Water, about a mile, where one on the left turns down to a building, in ruins, which must be passed ori the left, ahd, keeping another lane end on (he fight, arrive1 at a bridge, over the stream which runs' from Low's Water to Crummock' Water. From 'this bridge, it is scarcely three furlongs tb High Nook. High Nook, like other neighbouring farms, is surrounded by stately trees, Which Serve as an excellent fore-ground t6 a back view Pn 327 Low's Warer, in which Low Fell, in a good line, is the back-ground. From High Nopk, the road is up a deep valley, between Carling Knott and Gable; in frpnt, is Biake Fell, on which, may be observed a zig-zag path, to which the pedestrian must next make ;¦ put, this ascent becoming, by degrees, fa|njt, is finally lost, but hy inclining to the left, apcl afterwards tp the right, he will find in front, a road on the side of a beautiful smooth and ver dant hill, which having pursued for a short dis tance, he may observe, on the left, the village of Crosdale, to which he must proceed, and thence pass tpjEnnerdale Water. Or, leaving Crosdale, the way ip front is to Ennerdale Bridge, by Kirk- land, , differing little wijth that to the bridge by * tie. ' Another way from High Nook, to Crosdale, is by Jurning on the left when on the top of Blake Fell, to a gill, which haying crossed, with the gill on the right, it is a steep descent to Crosdale. The third way, is to ascend Gable at High Nook, and passing, and leaving a rivulet, and winding northward, the road, with a stream on the right WU<1 De gained, which descends tp Crosdale. Ejnnerdale Water is two miles and a half lpng : near its, fppt, it is more than half a mile across; hut it narrows towards the head of the 2 e 2 228 lake, where it is little more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. ' The best scenery on Ennerdale Water, is comprised within a small compass, lying chiefly 1 between its foot and the side of the hill on which is the road from Floutern Tarn, before mentioned. It is fine at How Hall, and thence to the margin of the lake, where the distance is composed of Herd House, and Bowness Knott, on the left, and Angling Stone, and Ahglebarrow Crag, on the right, shewing be tween them the Steeple and the Pillar, tw76 lofty mountains : but, How Hall is less prodi gal. in its woods, than the district eastward; over which is the way from Crosdale to the lake, where, is observed, (at the foot of that grand projection from the mountain, Bowness Knott,) Windsor Crag, shooting far into the lake, and forming pleasant bays, which, in an elegantly Winding shore, are continued to its outlet. : Here the mountains compose better than at How Hall, by the nearer approach of the Pillar" to Bowness Knott, which Knott, likewise as sembles well with the distance, having the Steeple as the highest point ; the Pillar be ing shut out by a movement on the left. At the foot of the rugged rocks of Bowness, de lightful groves, and scatterings of trees, shading farms, and extending each way to the lake, and mountain Herd House likewise ascend from the flat towards the spectator, and surrounding him, present that varied choice of beauty, so rarely^ to be met with amongst these northern wilds t* 229 never, where the busy hand of the extensive agriculturist has been at work. This divine spot has hitherto escaped the unhallowed hands of lucre; a spot, that, while triflingly withhold ing from the Bank of England, contributes largely to the bank of taste. What a strange policy", to deduct from the pleasure of thou sands, ideally only, to gratify a solitary indi vidual. The river Ehen, issuing from Ennerdale Water, after passing Ennerdale Chapel at the bridge, Egremont, and Beckermont, empties itself into the sea, not a mile from the mouth of the river Calder. From the western side of the Ehen, on the way from Enneidale Bridge to the lake, one mile and a half, rises Crag Fell, a steep hill, which, at the lake, becomes more abrupt, particularly at ,Angling Stone, a huge rock, rising perpendicularly out of the water : over this stone, in features not less rude, is Anglebarrow Crag. A foot road from Enner dale Bridge, cut through Angling Stone, and passing under Anglebarrow Crag, and Crag Fell, is continued on the verge of the water, all the way to its head, and thence to Gillerthwaite. On the river Ehen, half a mile below the lake, is a paper mill. Above this paper mill, on the borders of the road to Gillerthwaite, just men tioned, there are some pretty good views of the lake, having in distance, Bowness Knott, Herd House, Dodd, Sea, and Red Pike ; but the Pil lar and the Steeple are not presented north of Angling Stone. 230 Thpugh it may be proper, on passing from En- nenh.le Bridge to Scale Hill, on a Wrast Water excursion, to state that little is caught of Enner dale Water, yet, here it appears absolutely ne cessary to observe, that the high grounds ex tending from Herd House to How Hall, and theiice towards the foot of the lake, obscure its beauties from all the elevated lands in Lamp- leugh. Even at Stooka Hall, a mile from the bridge, and Salter Hall, rather more, both houses planted on high grounds, tire lake is sparingly seen, and what is seen, is over a tame, barren, and almost treeless flat; and the spectator is interested principally by that grand prospect of mountains, extending from Herd House and Anglebarrow Crag, of which the Pillar and Steeple stand pre-eminent. A mile from Ennerdale Bridge, and the like distance from Stooka Hall, on the eastern side of the road to Scale Hill; planted in a delightfully wooded bottom, are two good farm houses, called Bank End. From the public road, in progress towards Bank End, the ,two houses, by turps, partially appearing, under the arms of the aged trees by which they are environed, and having beyond them, the lake and rocky moun- tains, compose scenes of great singularity, and much beauty7. A bank, on the west of these houses, presents the hope of something good, but, being ascended, expectation is disappoint ed, as the space occupied between the spectator and the lake, is of fields, which, though not ill shapen, nor bounded by stone walls, but by hedge rows, is barren of forest trees, so pro- 231 fusely and beautifully decking the farm-hplds on the left. Bank End, in a straight line, is a mile and a half from the lake, and the writer, ffp'm various experiments, has not been able to discover a better distant point of view for the lake and mountains, than from the bank just described. If aided by fpre-grourtd trees, and possessing a rich middle-ground of wood, it would be a fine situation, thoUtrh, like all the neighbouring swells, too sparingly supplied with water. Those who wish to avoid the Buttermere and Scale Hill roads' to Ennerdale, already describ ed, as being so uncourteous in their accommo dation td strangers, may travel on horseback, or OP foot, or even in carriages,' to Lampleugh, and between the' Church, and Lampleugh Cross : on foot, of horseback only, leave the public road, and pass the houses, called High- trees, and Fell-dikej and thence over the com mon td Crpsdale ; or, they may leave the public road, at Kirkialid, twP miles nearer the bridge, arid gain the ridge of hill, extending from the outlet of the lake to the mountain* either at How Hall, Or by Crosdale. jfrom ^MiefMe, tfjrottgTi ^itrietUale mult, to Stomaie '&tm. Froth Crosdale to Gillerthwaite, under Bow ness Knott, on the eastern £ide ot the' late* the pleasantest commencement is on a foot road, 232 having How Hall on the right, and the build ings planted at the foot of Herd House, on the left ; it is a fine descent to the lake, which it reaches at a spacious bay, where, in view, are Angling Stone, and Anglebarrow Crag, over a little rocky island ; thence it is half a mile, on the shore, to Bowness, a farm house, under Bow ness Knott, having the projecting headland, called Windsor Grag, upon the right. Beyond Bowness, begin to be developed, the craggy precipices of the Pillar, which, at every step, in a progress towards its head, improves in grandeur. The writer, in his memorandum book, observes, " On the eighteenth of Septem ber, 1816, when on a foot expedition, with Mr. Otley, on passing between Bowness Knott, and the head of the lake, we wTere met by a lady and a gentleman, then unknown to me. They en quired the way to the inn, which I described, but told them, that it was not only a great dis tance, but, after leaving How Hall, they would find the road flat and insipid, and, by declining this extra deviation, additional fatigue would be thereby7 avoided, as we were told they had tra- veiled, that morning from Buttermere, where they intended to return in the evening. We offered them to share with us our hard eggs, bread and butter, brought, that day7, from the public house, at Ennerdale ; this was politely acknowledged, but as politely declined. I thought the lady seemed something wishful, and we were sorry not to have pressed the offer. We, however, told them, that they might probably procure refreshment at some of the farm houses, 233 lying under the hill. This rencounter is intro duced by way of sanction to the friendly ad monitions of the writer, who hereby advises his friends, when on exploring sallies, in districts so wild, that they may not see a house for miles, to carry their larder on their backs, in their pockets, or in their ridicules. — Then, on the green grass, by the side of some crystal foun tain, they may rest, and feast, at pleasure. Something beyond Bowness Knott, is Omtertmle Water. No. jftftj)--fibe. Herd House, and Sea, on the left, and Crag Fell, on the right, screen the sides of the lake; beyond which, the principal mountains ob served, are the PiUar and the Steeple, Hence, the lake, to its head, is cheerless, and desolate, — not a tree to be seen : rocks are, however, occasionally presented ; and, with the lake, and so noble a back-ground, combinations cannot be wanting. The Ehen commences at the outlet of Enner dale Water; for, the river passing Giller thwaite, in Ennerdale Dale, is called the Liza. Between the lake and Gillerthwaite, a stream joins the Liza. On this stream, perhaps two miles from the. lake, is a beautiful water-fall, or succession of water-falls, for there are five in number. These spouts are difficult of access, even from their union with the waters of the Liza, from which, the road is rugged, and un comfortable : but, the steady and undaunted VOL. II. 2 H 231, pedestrian, if gifted with stamina, and enthusi asm, in equal portions, surmounting every diffi culty7, will here, probably, find himself rewarded fpr his labours. The middle of these five falls is nearly perpendicular ; its breadth, in some waters, one third of its height, which is, how ever not considerable ; its descent is into a cir cular bason, except at its outlet engulphed in rocks ; at the feet of which, the eddies are whirled, as in a boiling caldron. The succeeding fall is over an uneven surface of rock, forming many pretty jets, which, spreading on the right and left, present, at its foot, an equilateral, triangle : beyond this, is exhibited the middle fall, and above that, an other, composing, altogether, a subject as singu lar as beautiful. This busy stream is elegantly overhung by ash and birch trees ; the rocks are finely tinted, and enriched with grasses, and ferns, of the most vivid greens, and with mosses, of all the colours of the pallet. Gillerthwaite, in Ennerdale Dale, two farm houses, (one only7, inhabited, the other being a ruin,) is a mile and a half from Ennerdale Water. Concerning Ennerdale, Mr. Hutchinson ob serves, " The lake has no very7 singular features ; yet, in a news-paper, of this county, an enrap- 235 tured traveller describing the scene, said," " It forms a picture, Such afe the Canvass never pre sented ; it embraces a variety7, so distributed, as no pencil ban ever imitate. No designer in romance ever allotted such a residence to his fairy inhabitants. I had almost said, no recluse ever Wooed religion in Such a blessed retire ment." " The genius of Ovid would have transformed the most favoured of his herpes in to a river, and poured his Waters intb the chan nel of the Liza, — there, to wander by the" ver dant bbunds of Gillerthwaite, — the sweet re ward of patriotism and virtue." The following are the reflections df Mr. Hutchinson. " Gillerthwaite is a narrow track of cultivated land, a peninsula on the lake, or lough, whose verdure receives additional beauties from the stotty desart with which it is environed ; where the mountains are barren, ih the extreme. This little spot has two Cottages upon it, and has no neighbouring habitations to alleviate the gloom of its situation. " Oh the Whole, there is something melan choly in this scenery, and the mind is apt to be depressed, rather than enlivened, and touched with pleasure at the view of human habitations sequestered, and shut out, for many seasons, even from the Comfortable rays of the sun." Several, Wishful to render aecouhts of Enner dale and Gillerthwaite, without the trouble of 236 journeying there, have copied Mr. Hutchinson. Had these gentlemen visited the scenes them selves, and that repeatedly, the original matter had, probably, been more useful to travellers, than that by them extracted. The author of the Addenda to West's Guide to the Lakes, seems properly to appreciate the charms of this sequestered wild. It is pre sumed, that his entrance into Ennerdale Dale, was at Scarf Gap, whence, in a progress to wards the lake, he was treated with a view of the *' verdant Gillerthwaite, whose romantic situation must be seen : description cannot fur nish an idea of its beauties." " It is a patch of enclosed, and, apparently, highly cultivated ground, on a stony desart of immeasurabe ex tent ; for, the mountains on each side of it, are the most barren in their aspect, and continue that appearance, till their heads mix with the ho rizon." Speaking of the lake, after having passed Bowness, he observes, that " the furni ture of the lake is totally changed." " On the travellers' side, (the east) the farms are stretch ed out, and exhibit a verdure, seldom seen in the most fertile parts of this kingdom ; and in the compass of a few miles, the number of small tenements seem to say with Goldsmith," " Here, every rood of ground maintains its roan." The houses at Gillerthwaite, are placed on the edge of an extensive and circular plain, of great fertility, graced by7 a romantic scattering of oak and ash trees. These, flourishing with uncom mon richness, give this bottom, through which, 237 flows the meandering Liza, a most enchanting appearance. But, the wild mountains, rising, in terrific grandeur, above this vale of paradise, are in awful contrast to the flat. A more sylvan bot tom than Gillerthwaite, can scarcely be imagin ed, nor a more rugged range of mountains than those by which it is bounded. Advancing, and having, in a back view, the lake, the scene in dis tance is softer than on the shaggy surface of the Pillar. ^ When the writer last viewed this unfrequented place, it was under the influence of a warm and sportive sunshine, which, rendering lazy, while it illuminated the lowing herds of cattle, pre sented, to the " mind's eye," after their viewing such a scene, the results of a Cuyp, a Bergham, or a Potter, or of many an English painter of animals. This is a pretty pastoral landscape ; for, the boundaries towards the foot of the lake gradually diminishing, and receding into flat ness, are lost in the density of distance. A woman, and her grandson, were the only persons at Gillerthwaite, when the writer was last there. Twenty-four years ago, one, amongst several others, of the inhabitants, was an aged and intelligent man. The situation, and the fertility of this bottom, gave rise to reflections touching the present state of the labouring classes, who, in dungeon-like cellars, and bye allies, eke out a miserable existence; while, with infinitely greater comfort to themselves, and honour and profit to the affluent, they might enjoy, in vast happiness, such peaceful and se- 238 questered abodes as Gillerthwaite. Who, with feelings alive to the sufferings of their fellow mortals, regret not, that, in this, and similar places, instead of two, the population is not, at least, one hundred times two. Turning from the lake to the moutaitts, and the dale, which, beyond the enclosures, becomes narrow, the Pillar assumes still greater import ance. From the foot and sides of the lake, its- rude parts softened by distance and air, appear ed fonly indications of what, on a nearer ap proach, become more terribly palpable. Fright ful would be the vision to the timid, or those unaccustomed to sights like these, and awful to to all men if instantaneously transported from even meadows to such rugged uplands, particu larly as seen immediately above the path, where, in savage startings, from the mountain's side, the rocks are like huge towers falling from im mense fortifications. The valley, all the way7 from the lake to the foot of Great Gable, at its head, five miles in length, is of particularly easy ascent. The road, if a blind path can be called such, is sometimes on the verge of the Liza, and seldom much above it. It crosses, in its course, a num ber of beautiful springs, of most transparent water, notwithstanding which, the passage is generally pleasant, the wet being easily avoided. The Melbreak bogs are unknown to Ennerdale Dale. Great Gable, in front, is here a sublime object. Four miles from the head of the lake, ap pears, on the left, though not plainly, the track 239 over Scarf Gap, from Buttermere, to Wastdale, and, a little higher up the dale, a sheep-fold, where the Liza must be crossed, to a stream, tumbling down Black Sale, On the side of this, stream, keeping it on the left, the traveller must pass to, the hollow at its top, where, on the left, is Kirk Fell, and on the right, the Pillar. This, is a steep and craggy ascent, and so laborious to man, that it might be imagined horses could not travel it, yet, Mr. Thomas Ty son, of Wastdale Head, has conducted Mrs. Ty-, son over this stony ground, while sitting on the back of her horse. There is so little flat at the summit of the pass, that the spectator, from the same point, may almost look into the bottoms of Ennerdale, and Mosedale. Mosedale is the valley into which the road descends ; first, with much precipitancy, then more easily, and smoothly, than that upon the side of Ennerdale Dale. After many a sudden turn, it reaches the bottom of the deep dale, and the river,. which, at the end of various lazy windings, is lost between the intersections of Kirk Fell, and Yewbarrow, here, partially screening the rocky and furrowed sides of Lingmell. Over Ling mell, appears the most elevated lands in Eng land, the Pikes, and Sea Fell, separated by that extraordinary chasm, called Mickle Door. Mosedale, though void of trees, is not of grandeur ; it is shut out from the world by a circular chain of mountains, displaying a visible horizon, of an elevation superior to that of any Other seclusion in Cumberland, Westmorland, 210 or Lancashire. To this stupendous grandeur, might be aided, the highest possible beauty, first, by a lake, accomplished at a moderate ex- pence, and afterwards by planting the borders of that lake, and the bending steeps, by which it would be surrounded. Fifty years, perhaps forty, even thirty, by having, day by day, the plants properly nurtured, weeded, and, in every way encouraged, would give this place as the wonder of the lakes, and the tour to Wast Water, and its appendage, Mosedale, might, for a time, supercede all other mountain journies, particu larly when the road from Broughton, through Eskdale to Wastdale, was rendered even and commodious. Where the road leaves the river, the latter pursues a rude declivity, while the road, for some distance, rises ; from its top, it looks to Wastdale Head, and has presently in view, the nouse of Mr. Tyson, before mentioned. On an excursion to Wastdale Head, Mr. Tyson related to Mr. Otley, and the writer, a tale, which might have been attended with melancholy consequences. A few years ago, three beauti ful and accomplished young ladies, proposing to walk from Buttermere to Wastdale, took a guide over Scarf Gap, to the junction of the road from Buttermere and Ennerdale to Wast dale Head, and having, not only the course to be pursued up the rugged side of Sale pointed out, but the remainder of the journey described, they separated from their conductor. It is thought, that, instead of keeping the runner on 241 the left, which falls down the side of the moun tain,' they got it on their right, and, inconse quence, became bewildered. It was a happy circumstance for these interesting females, that their mistake occurred in the summer season ; had it been a few months later, in all pro bability, they wrould have perished. It was only four in the afternoon when they were left by their guide, and, wandering away the day in fruitles searches for the road, remained on the mountain during midnight darkness, and did not awake the Tyson family till three in' the morning. WastWater. The road to this lake from Keswick through- BprroWdale, has been already noticed, as far as Sty Head. The descent from the Sty to Wast dale isfmuch easier, 'and, perhaps, more amusing than the ascent, and, as by commencing with Borrowdale, rather than Whinlatter, or New- lands/the roads, on the second day's journey, are not only better made, but over less uneven surfaces : the writer will commence his tour with Borrowdale, though greatly to ' the disad vantage of the Wastdale scenery. As a horse road, the descent from Sty Head to Wastdale Heaiclis'the grandest among the lakes. fc>* This road is well defined; generally well made ; and kept in as good repair as such an extraordinary declivity will allow of; and, to vol. n. 2 i 242 conduct it over the best ground, attention has not been wanting. It is full of sharp turns and bends, which, though lengthening the journey, renders it much easier to travel, than if carried forward in a straighter line. From the top of the Sty, is seen the peaceful vale of Wastdale, and in distance, Yewbarrow. The road is down the side of Great Gable, whose surface is one series of huge projecting rocks, which seem ready to start from their stations, and hurl destruction on the traveller. On the left, over the deep ravine below the road, in towering sublimity, appear Great End and the Pikes; which latter, are gradually lost behind Broad Crag. Nearer the bottom of the vale, project ing from the top of Lingmell, are Lingmell Crags. On the right and left, at every7 down ward step, new modifications of rock, pecu liarly arrest the gazings of the spectator. Over the lower end of Lingmell, is seen, a small portion of the lake, and, beyond it, the sea. At the foot of the pass, rude rocks, and shivering stones, are exchanged for soft ver dure, and an easy and pleasant passage to Wast dale Head. Wastdale Head is a narrow, but fruitful vale, and, if ridded of its stone walls, and more pro fusely planted, would, truly, be a pastoral para dise : all its inhabitants are shepherds, and live at the feet of the most stupendous mountains; these are Yewbarrow, and Kirk Fell ; Great Gable, and Lingmell ; the latter is the ground work of the Pikes. 243 Through the half circle formed by the inter sections of Yewbarrow arid Kirk Fell, is pre sented the Pillar. There are, at Wastdale Head, six families ; three of them are land owners. " The vestiges of many ruined cottages show, that this village was once more considerable." " There is no mill, public house, shop, or tradesman, in the valley, notwithstanding it is a considerable dis tance from any market town, being upwards of fifteen miles from either Egremont, or Keswick." An inn at Wastdale Head, would be a great ac commodation to strangers; but, by the courteous yeomanry, who occasionally receive them, this want is, in a considerable degree, supplied. At the first inhabited house on the way from Keswick to the lake, the writer has experienced the greatest kindness; not only while it was the residence of Mr. Isaac Fletcher, but; of Mr. Christopher Fletcher, his brother, who succeed ed him. ' Mr. 'Hutchinson says, " One of the land owners^ whose name is Fletcher, derives the family possessions here, from a course, of not less than seven hundred years." This is the house of Fletcher, just mentioned. Many enquiring travellers, have been lodged at the house of Mr. Thomas Tyson, whose family, being less numerous than Mr. Fletcher's, have subjected Mrs. Tyson to fewer inconveni ences, than might: have, been the case, had it 2 i 2 214 been large. Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher are, how- jever, wjlling to befriend the anxious tourist in cases of necessity. These worthy and intelli gent persons, though asking no reward, receive it; and, who would not'offer it, fpr, such kihd- ,ness ? The only sensation inimical to comfort, resuilting. from isuch a visit, is the consideration of the sum to be' offered on departure; some^ times: a parley ensues.-rT-Madam,. . we have given you much trouble, iand shall be ; happy .to ac knowledge -your kindness; will yout.h&ve rthe goodness !to ;say how much we stand) indebted ',? "-Wecannet make a, charge," is usually: the an swer. , This h a difficulty easily surmounted by old travellers^ whose acquaintance/with the jde- Jnarids at aU sorts of inns, will, of course, .pre- :sent the medium sum required in pwblic houses ^forequivalenit accommodation. In addition io this, ; iife inay he proper t© consider; the. expence .and labour required to;prJocuafe provisions extra ordinary, and ¦; them to ' necompencei pioportaari- ately. Generally, the hostess is not avariefons, and receives, with courtesy, the sum presented. But, there are wealthy tourists, WhoH by their prodigality, ,hav.e injured others, whose means have not allowed them tpgive more for their food iand;fodgiijgs than a reasonable compensation. It is exceedingly pleasantiip, second, and still more pleasant, a third time, to visit the houses of itfhdse1 yeomanry, or statesmen, as they are resenting singular views of the neighbouring ow lands ; and, through one of them the town ofEgremont. Sometimes, in glorious expanses of one vast map, is exhibited, that rich agricul-, tural district bordering the sea coast, and, in its garb of blue the Isle of Man. From the high grounds, descending towards Ennerdale Bridge, are seen, rising from the river Ehen, Stocka Hall, Salter Hall, and Esket, all embosomed in trees, and hence, and from Lampleugh, all the country receding in an aerial prospective, to Workington, Maryport, and Allonby, with the sea, and Solway Frith beyond it ; and, in extreme distance, the high lands in the south of Scotland, a succession of objects, which, happily influenced by medium at mosphere, cannot fail of giving pleasure to the mind. Still advancing towards the bridge, on the right, is an exhibition, in a ruder character, of the mountains, extending from Lampleugh nearly to the head of Buttermere. The Lamp leugh and Low's Water heights, are Kelton Fell, Knock Morton, Burn Bank, and Blake Fell. Those lying between Ennerdale and the lakes of Crummock Water and Buttermere, Floutern Pike, Herd House, and Sea ; beyond which, bounding the eastern side of Crummock Water, appears that aspiring summit, Grasmire. The road, having some pretty buildings on the left, is steep to Ennerdale Bridge. Though the public house is not large, the hostess can con trive to make up three beds, if required. 259 From the inn, with the river Ehen, and the paper mill, on the left, and Crag Fell, on the right, it is one mile and a half to the foot of Ennerdale Water, and two miles, with the river on the right, to the lands near How Hall, where its best features are presented. The inn stands on the south, and the chapel, a neat building, on the north side of the river, whence the road has a considerable ascent for more than a mile. Stocka Hall, and Salter Hall, two houses standing on high ground, command fine prospects ofthe Ennerdale mountains, though but little of the lake, and the intervening lands, are less inviting to the eye than those on the right and left. But, very pretty views of the lake (which is here but little seen) may be descried on the way from the public road to Bank End, two houses, delightfully situated in a wooded bottom. Here, as at Stocka and Salter Halls, the Pillar is the principal mountain in the ex treme distance. A mile and a half from Ennerdale Bridge, stand a few houses, called Kirkland, from which, over the common, having on the right, Gable, and the left, Knock Morton, is the way by Blake Fell, and High Nook, near Low's Water, to Scale Hill. A mile beyond Kirkland, the road from Lampleugh to Egremont, and Whitehaven, is on the left. Half a mile be yond this junction, and three miles from Enner dale Bridge, is Lampleugh Cross, where, the road on the left turns off to Cockermouth, that 2 l 2 Z60 on the right, to Scale Hill. At Lampleugh Cross are two public houses. On the road to Scale Hill, a little in advance from Lampleugh Cross, is a passage by High Trees, and Fell Dike, to Crosdale, which is near the finest part of Ennerdale Water. Lampleugh Church is four miles from Enner dale Bridge; it stands on the north side of the road, and the hall on the south, both anti quated buildings; the latter, the ancient fa mily seat of the Lampletigh's. Date on a shield, 1595. A little beyond the church, the road enters a common, from which there is a view to the Scotch mountains, Ben Garon, and Scriffel. The little lake on the left, is called Moucheron Tarn. The Scotch mountains are, for a time, lost, but presently again appear. The up- stretching lands seen on the right, are Knock Morton, and Blake Fell. Short of the common gate, on the direct road to Scale Hill, one turns off by Water End to the Western side of Low's Water. Between the common and the highest of the Water End houses, from a green hill, on the left, there is a most fascinating scene of Low's Water, ob served in an already described progress round that lake, from the inn at Scale Hill. The public road is only a little on the left, and, from. its junction with this deviating road, down hill, all the way to Low's Water, and partly on its 261 banks, to Scale Hill. As has been before ob served, the road from Scale Hill to Keswick is either by Whinlatter or Buttermere. (tZxcumitm frmit Qmbltsitot, ufoer fflaarjj Nose attU j&arti ftnott, ana* tftrotigl CsftMe, to ma& Water. This road, which is by Skelwith and Colwith Bridges, and through Langdale, by Little Langdale Tarn, has been described in the Langdale excursion, to the place where it is left on the road by Blea Tarn to Great Lang dale; there, it is scarely seven miles from Am bleside. Hence, the road is to Fell Foot; and from Fell Foot, steeply, to the county stones, on Wry Nose, distant from Ambleside, eight miles. When the high way to Whitehaven from Kendal, was over Wry Nose and Hard Knott, Fell Foot was then a public house. On ascending Wry Nose, the pikes of Lang dale assume a dignified, though an uncommon appearance ; but they are soon lost. On the left, are the Little Langdale Carrs, and other Coniston mountains, ; and, in retrospect, Wans Fell Pike, seen over Little Langdale, and the various windings of the Brathay. The three shire stones, where the counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire unite, are placed on the top of the hill. Here, 262 the road enters Lancashire, having the stream which divides it from Cumberland, on the right. This road falls not abruptly, nor has the dale any striking features. The prospect is chiefly on Hard Knott, near the farm house, called Cockley Beck : the river, issuing from the county stones, is met by that down the valley, called Mosedale. At Cockley Beck Bridge, ten miles and a half from Amble side, the road enters Cumberland. This bridge is at the foot of Hard Knott; to the top of which, it is rather steep. The prospect back ward, is on the grand mountains of Seathwaite and Coniston. The descent from the top of Hard Knott shows through the screening sides of consider able acclivities, the beautiful vale of Esk, ter minated at the distance of twelve miles in the neighbourhood of Muncaster arid Ravenglass, by the sea. In fine weather, the Isle of Man may be observed. Something more than half way down the hill, about one hundred and twenty yards on the right of the road, are the remains of Hard Knott Castle, which is supposed to have been anciently a fortress of great importance. " It is built of common fell stone, except the corners ; which, according to the report of the country7 people, among whom it is known by the name of Hard Knott Castle, were of free stone, but has been all taken away for buildings, in the neighbourhood, there being no free stone nearer than Gosforth ; but for that circum- 263 stance, it is probable, the fortress would have been standing at this day, in a state of ad mirable perfection." From Hard Knott Castle, there is a magnifi cent scene of Sea Fell and the Pikes, supported by the immense buttresses rising from the Esk. On the left, is in view, the sea, and all the pleasing intermediate objects. Nearly at the bottom of the hill, on the right, is the sheep farm, called Brotherill Keld. On the contrary side of the river, and opposite to this farm, is Toes, the property and residence of Mr. Thomas Towers. Brotherill Keld be longs to Edward Stanley, Esq. of Ponsonby, and is tenanted by Mr. Joseph Rogers. The writer, by accident, noticing in Cook's Topography, a description of the Yeoman Shepherd inhabiting the more secluded vales of Cumberland, has here presented it with the preparatory introduction of the editor. " Mr. Warner, in his Northern Tour, has given the following characteristic, and true de lineation of the manners and circumstances of a class of men, inhabiting this mountainous district. " In the midst (says our author) of these se cluded scenes formed by the involutions df the mountains, uncorrupted by the society of the world, lives one of the most independent, most moral, and most respectable characters existing, 261 the estatesman, as he is called, in the language of the country. His property usually amounts from ^80, to £ 200, a year; his mansion forms the central point of his possessions, where he passes an undisturbed inoffensive life, surrounded by his own paternal meads and native hills. Occupied in cultivating the form er, and browzing the latter with, his large flocks of 3000, or 4000 sheep, he has no temptation to emigrate from home ; and, knowing but few of those artificial wants which spring from luxury, he has no inclination to lessen or alienate his property7 in idle expenditure, but transmits to Lis descendants, w ithout diminution or increase, the demesne, which had been left to himself by his own frugal and contented forefathers. Hence it happens, that more frequent instances occur, in the deep vales of Cumberland, of property being enjoyred for a long series of gene rations, by the same family, than in any other part of England. Their sheep running wild upon the mountains, and never taken into the farm yard, are exposed to perpetual accidents, and loss, arising from the inclemency of the weather, and the horrors of snow storms; and, in some instances twelve or fifteen head have been destroyed in a year. This circum stance prevents them from getting rich.; but, on the other hand, as the flocks are kept with out the least expence to the proprietors, their losses never induce poverty upon them ; so that, happily oscillating between their loss and gain, they are preserved in the independent state, that golden mean, which the wise Agur so earnestly and rationally petitioned of his God 265 that he might enjoy. Removed, by their situa tion and circumstanees, from the ever shifting scene of fashionable life, their manners continue primitive, unabraded, by the collision of gene ral intercourse ; their hospitality is unbounded, and sincere, their sentiments simple, and their language scriptural. "Go," said an estatesman, to a friend of mine, whom he had entertained for some days, in his house, " go to the vale, on the other side of yon mpuntain, to the house of such an estatesman, and tell him you come from me. Iknowhimnot, but he will receive you kindly, for our sheep mingle upon the moun tains." It is a circumstance, perhaps, not generally known, that a farmer of fell lands, rents like wise the sheep depastured thereon. Were that not the case, the sheep would "mingle upon the mountains," and be a perpetual source of anxi ety and trouble. Every fresh renter has the sheep numbered, and valued, and he conditions with his, landlord,-^ to leave upon the estate, when he quits it, the like number and value. Few of the Cumberland, Westmorland, or Lancashire mountain estatesmen, as they are here termed, are so princely in their flocks, as to posselss'4000 sheep. 'The writer has not heard of pne ; and 3000 is a number to which few flocks extend. There are, perhaps not three other adjoining sheep walks in the above coun tries, on Which so great a number of sheep are kept, as at Toes, Brotherill Keld, and Black Hall. Mr. William Ty>.on, of Black Hall VOL. 11. 2 M 266 (one mile south of Cockley Beck) in his life time, had under his care Upwards of 2000 sheep, partly his own, and the rest rented. Mr. Roger's flock does not amount to 3000, all taken with the land ; Mr. Towers's, all his own property, are something short of 200O. The stock of the truly mountain shepherd varies little ; reduction is chiefly occasioned by high prices, and severe winters : — accumulation by mild seasons, and low prices. It is the low land shepherds, or those, who, at the feet of mountains, border extensive levels, whose flocks are in the most constant state of fluctuation: these are principally dealers. Those within the fellish recesses attend exclusively to the breeding, health, and growth of their sheep, and their sale, when fit for the low land market. The wool, in prosperous times, is a source of considerable gain. One of the most extensive collections of sheep, nearly 4000, and managed under his direction, belongs to Mr. Robert Hodgson, of Bridekirk and Lorton, near Cockermouth. Mr. Franklin, of Forest Hall, near Kendal, has -upwards, of 3000 ; Mr. John Abbott, of Thornthwaite Hall, near Haws Water, 2500 ; Mr. John Henderson, of Shap, 2000; Mr. Matthew Clark, of Shap Abbey, 1000. The above are not rented, as is generally the case, with the land on which they are pastured ; they7 are the property of the per sons mentioned. In Patterdale,"the property of John Mounsey, Esq., of Patterdale Hall, 1700 ; of these 1000 are shepherded under his direc tion ; 300 by one of Mr. Mounsey's sons ; and 267 400 by a tenant. Glen Coin, in Patterdale, Mr. Pearson, 9O0. Troutbeck Park, his own and rented, Mr. John Dawson, 1500. Kentmere Hall, rented, 1200. Gatesgarth, in Buttermere, when rented by the late Mr. Matthias Vicars, 1300. Langdale, the' late Mr. John Jackson, his property, 1000. Rented by Mr. John Green up^ of High Close, 900. Mr. Joseph Postle- thwaite, with his farm, 400. Rosthwaite, Mr. John Wilson, 100O, his own. Watenlath, own and rented, Mr. Thomas Wilson, upwards of 1000. Loughrigg, Mr. James Cookson, his own, 800. Mr. Thomas lrvin, 900, of these 800 rented, 100 his own. Long Sleddale, his own and rented, 800, Mr. Michael Mattison. Hartshop Hall, Mr. Robert Grisedale, 800, rent ed. Wastdale Head, Mr. Wilson Stable, rents 800. Tilberthwaite, Mr. George Martin, 800 rented. Swindale, near Shap, Mr. James Sewel, his own, 600. Ambleside, on their own land, Messrs. Daws, Jackson, and Thomas Jackson, 200 each. On rented lands, Mr. Michael Daw son, chiefly his own, 500. Mr. David Powley, 400, rented. Grasmere, Messrs. Tyson and Pearspn, their own, having each 400. Mar- dale, Mr. Richard Holm, his own property, 400 : Mr. R. Greenhow, 400, rented. Wythburn, Messrs. Mandal and Plasket, 400 each. These are the greatest shepherds amongst the North ern mountains ; but as many of the estatesmen are the proprietors of sheep farms not under their immediate management, the aggregate number owned by them would in some instances be very considerable. Mr. Thomas Towers, above mentioned, perhaps takes charge, on his 2 m 2 268 own land, of a greater number than any other individual ;¦ and that number is less than 2000. Some of these estatesmen or statesmen possess double, treble, — some four times two hundred pounds per annum — artd though "knowing few of those artificial wants which spring from lux ury," have not on that account the less anxiety for money ; accumulation with them being as important a consideration as with the busiest of the busy inhabitants of towns. Though gene rally honest, yet in their worldly intercourse these statesmen are not less wary than their brethren in the cabinets of courts; but with all their love of gain and aversion to expenditure, the statesmen are a cheerful and an intelligent race pfmen, ready on occasion to supply7 infor mation ; and an evening's fire-side with one of these august dalelanders and his family, parti cularly if familiarized to the mountain dialect, must impress the visitor highly in their favour. In Eskdale and Seathwaite, the fell lands bearing a much larger portion to the bottom lands than those in other places, the shepherds are of necessity compelled in the winter season to deny their. sheep any other subsistanCe than Such as is produced on the mountains. During half the year, the upper regions of these scanty pastures are covered with snow ; then the rounds of duty to be performed by the shepherds and their assistants are almost incredibly laborious. Drifts of snow, produced by storms and hurri canes, overwhelm and sometimes prove fatal to the sheep ; but out of which they are usually 269 regained ; the place being first marked by the sagacious dog. There are many instances of sheep being taken alive from these snowy graves, after being buried in them for three weeks. In the most inclementseasons, except in Seathwaite and Eskdale, the sheep are conducted to the in- tacks (large pastures observed on the sides of hills), there they are fed twice a day with hay. Perhaps Mr. Warner's information respecting sheep was derived from Seathwaite or Eskdale, and not knowing that the mode of treatment in those dales was local and peculiar to a district, has given it as the general mode of management throughout these mountains. Summer is the shepherd's holiday ; then they have little trouble with their sheep. Preparkory to their being shorn, they are washed. This washing takes place towards the end of June ; and the shearing, which is performed in the farm yard, commences in the middle of July, For the double purpose of preventing the rot and promoting the growth of the wool, the sheep, not only in Seathwaite and Eskdale, but in all other parts among the lakes, are conducted to the lower lands, and there profusely anointed with a salve, composed of tar and fresh butter. In Seathwaite and Eskdale there are a greater proportion of sheep and lambs annually lost than in places where they are foddered, particularly lambs ; the ewes remaining on the fells during the lambing season. Those in other dales are conducted to the fields and meadows, and when the lambs are two months old, they, with their 270 dams, are driven to the mountains. It is re markable that when the sheep are returned to their elevated pastures, that they betake them selves to the same ground from which they had for a time been detached. "Sometimes, though rarely7, a sheep will stray from the flock " and mingle upon the mountains" with those belong ing, to a neighbour; but these are rarely lost; the owner is presently apprized of the foundling, and It is taken home at the annual feasting of the shepherds, who meet for the purpose of bu siness ; and among other branches to give each man his own. On the 27th of November, 1817, on his way to Ambleside from Keswick, the writer arrived in time to join the shepherds at one of their annual dinners at the Horse's Head, in Wyth burn. Who can read without admiring Mr. Warner's description of the mountain shepherd, in which, had truth been unmixed with fable, then it had been useful as a piece of information ; but it is presumed that no language, however elegant, can apologize for a want of accuracy. Readers never having seen a mountain or a lake, will see in the " Northern Tour" the Cumberland estatesman as an Arcadian shepherd of that happy era when distinguished for his simplicity of manners and attachment to pastoral retire ment, he ranged his mountains and his plains, tuUed his voice and his pipes, and while possess ing sufficient of the refinement, had nothing of the vices of the' states by which he was environ ed. 271 Far be it from the writer to impute to the reverend author any intention to mislead his reader, doubtless the outline which he has so happily7 coloured and effected into a glowing picture, was given as correct. The last of these lines, beginning. with " Go, said an estatesman," if read by an estatesman, will pervade his visage with a smile. The es tatesmen are men of good common sense, and valuable members of society. Brotherill-keld and Toes are planted each a short distance from the river Esk, half a mile above the bridge over which the Kendal and Whitehaven road passes. Hence it is through the romantic vale of Esk, out of which rise rocky knolls, most charmingly enriched with trees, and bordered by considerable uplands. On the left, on the side of the hill called Birker, is Birker force, a singular water-fall, noticed in the early part of this work. Not far from the church, which is on the left, a road turns on the right leading by Burnmoor Tarn to Wastdale Head. A little on the road, by pursuing the directions which may7 be had from neighbouring houses the pedestrian may cross a hill into Mi- terdale, and thence, over the southern end of the Screes, to Latterbarrow, where there is a grand view of Wast Water. The way to the Strand public-house, or that to the lake, may be observed on descending. A little beyond Eskdale chapel, on the left, over the river, stands Dale Garth Hall, the pro- 272 perty of Edward Stanley, Esq., of Ponsonby. " Dale Garth Hall, the ancient manor-house of Awsthwaite, was the place of residence of the ancient family of Stanley, ever since the year 1 345. The house was a very spacious building, but part of it has been pulled down by the pre sent proprietor's father (the present Mr. Stan ley's grandfather) ; the remains shew the mode of architecture used in these distant ages, when that country abounded in timber trees, each beam is founded in the entire stem of an oak, and each step in the stair-case is a solid block of the same wood ; this profusion is not to be wondered at when we are informed that a squirrel could travel from Dale Garth to Hard Knot mountain by the tops of trees, the forest was so closely wooded." Dale Garth Hall is an excellent object for the exercise of the pencil. That awful chasm enclosing a water fall called Stanley Gill, is a little way from Dale Garth Hall. It is well worth attention and may be seen by application at the hall. Stanley Gill has been already described. A mile beyond Dale Garth Hall a road turns on the left, and having crossed the Esk and passed a few houses caUedYesterfield, it ascends steeply to a common, at the end of which is Ulpha Kirk House, seated on a bank above the river Dudden, over which is a bridge four miles from Broughton. In a direct line south from Dale Garth Hall, but perhaps three miles by Yesterfipld, on ground of considerable elevation, is Devoke Water, a .273 lake, in the middle of which is an island. The immediate boundaries' of this lake are humble ; but the, high mountains of Eskdale, Wastdale, and Coniston, are in view from its western side. Devoke Water has the finest trout known in the North, for size, redness, and flavour. A little beyond the last deviation from the Eskdale road by Santon Brige to Wast Water, and upwards of seventeen miles from Ambleside, one turns on the left to Muncaster Castle and to Ravenglass. At Loukay Hall the road crosses the river Mite. Twenty7 miles from Ambleside it reaches Santon Bridge, at which there is a public-house. Short of the Bridge, a road turns off by Irton Hall to Ravenglass. From Santon Bridge it is two miles to the Strands public-house at Nether Wastdale ; but the direct road to the lake leaves the public- house a quarter of a mile on the left, and from Santon Bridge it is three miles fo Wast Water. On the way from Santon Bridge to Wast Water, that lake is seen to great advantage by ascending Latterbarrow, a hill on the right. From various points on this eminence, may be observed the whole circumference of the lake, with its elegant winding shores, bold head-lands, bordering enclosures, and sublime mountains. On the south side of the river stands Eusthwaite, and on the borders of the lake, Crook, before mentioned : from each side of the river in pro- VOL. II. 2 N 274 fusion Spring woods, which, if well managed, would greatly beautify this neighbourhood. On the right rises the Screes, with its vast Over hanging rocks and shiver, in all the subdued colours of the rainbow ; opposite the Screes, in many flexures, may be seen the road, extending from rock to rock, and over it Bowderdale, with its cultivated fields, and Yewbarrow, shewing a new set of features; but Gable, over the head of the lake, displaying an outline differing little f in its appearance to that presented from all parts of the road on a progress towards the foot of the mountain. Kirkfell is shewn between Yewbarrow and Gable, and on the right of Ga ble, behind the Screes, a portion of Lingmell. On the left are Buckbarrow and Middle Fell. These scenes are somewhat varied from the side of the Screes on the south of Eusthwaite, and thence towards the foot of Wast Water, still having Gable as the principal distant fea ture. Opposite a ruined boat-house at the foot of the lake, in connection with the river, and having Gable sublimely cut off on the right by the Screes, is a grand combination, particularly if assisted by neighbouring trees, to give it ba lance on the left. On pursuing the margin of the lake, Yew barrow still in new but not unpleasing lines, is presented over the water, and the fields of Bow derdale, having in front the bold rocks that have tumbled from the mountains. Seen over the outlet of the lake, w7ith the middle ground buildings and trees at Crook, and 275 Buckbarrow Pike as a back-ground, is not only a singular but an agreeable association, The Screes stretch from the head to the foot of the lake on its eastern side, and, from the feet of the monstrous crags which often over hang their bases, the mountain is one continued surface of loose stones, which occasionally shiver into the water ; nay, the rocks themselves have been know to fall, to the terror and dismay of the peaceful neighbouring inhabitants, and so much in volume as to shake the very foundation of the mountains. They are now at rest except in frosty weather, when sometimes a large stone is detached from the rest, and hurled to the lake. In Mr. Hutchinson's History of Cum. berland, the Screes are thus described, " Part of the cliffs or scar consists of rotten stone and red gravel, which is continually running down into Wast- water lake with great precipitancy, which sometimes, when a more than ordinary break or rent happens,' causes a prodigious noise, fire and smoke, which in the night time appears like lightning to the inhabitants of Nether Wastdale, which lies opposite to the Screes, on the north side of the lake. In some parts of the Screes is the finest soft red ore, used for what is there called smitting (rudding or mark ing) the sheep. On the top of the Screes stood for ages a very large stone, called Wilson's horse, but about twenty years ago it fell down into the lake, when a cleft was made about 100 yards long, four feet wide, and of incredible depth;" 2S2 276 In a memorandum book of the writer's is the following passage : — 1803, July 20th, went from Mr. Fletcher's, at Wastdale Head, to the foot of Wast Water, crossed its outlet, and proceed ed for some distance under the Screes, in quest by subjects. The morning on leaving my friends was mild, but heat ensued, which was gradually encreased to an almost insupportable degree ; this heat was succeeded as suddenly as unex pectedly by a tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and hail. Fine mountains, animated of glowing sunshine, were now veiled in a ter rifying gloom, and the prospect exclusively on the falling hail and blackened- waters of the lake transiently enlightened by flickering flashes from the angry firmament. Sheltered for some time from the hail under a thick holly bush, I felt no inconvenience ; but this hail was succeeded by rain, in which I was presently as completely saturated as if dragged an hour in the lake. Shivering with cold, 1 hastened to the first house at the foot of the lake, which is Eusthwaite, belonging to and inhabited by Mr. Lancelot Porter, whose wife is sister to Mr. Isaac Flet cher, at that time living at Wastdale Head. At Eusthwaite the shepherds and the shepherdesses were sitting round the fire, the rum bottle and every suitable accommodation were instantly produced, but this was not the first instance of hospitahty there witnessed. In company with my friend W., in the year 1800, we greatly admired the easy politeness with which we were served by the mistress of the house. My friend H., whom I left that morning at Wastdale Head, unassailed by tempest and screened 277 from sunshine, made some admirable studies of dogs and sheep. The afternoon was of a de lightful temperature, and after drying and re freshing myself, and repairing my ragged port folio, I resumed and continued my labours till the coming on of night. While under the holly bush my mind was in voluntarily led to ruminate on the days when stones were so profusely dislodged from the Screes and tumbled to the water, and though latterly more at rest, busy imagination pictured the probability of a repetition ; than which none seemed a more likely season than the pre sent. Notwithstanding the weight of rain, I had the curiosity to examine the hail stones : of these many were as large as a moderately sized, walnut, and the' contents a globe of con gealed snow inserted in a. cone. of transparent. ice. The effects of the storm were limited to a narrow compass, not being more than half a mile in breadth, evident atter its dissipation by a reference to the opposite mountain Buckbar row, which exhibited, at the same moment, the hoary robe of winter, in. a bordering of sum* mer's verdure. Longitudinally it extended to Langdale, perhaps ten miles : there it did great injury by breaking windows and the de struction of whole fields of corn. The river Irt, which has its sources, in Sty Head, Gable, and the Pillar, having left the lake and passed Irton Hall, Holm Rook, and Drig, joins the Mite and the Esk at Ravenglass, and the sea at Drig Point. ; 278 IrtonHall, scarcely a mile from Santon Bridge, the seat of Edward Lampleugh Irton, Esq., has been the family place of the Irtons seven hun dred years. Irton Hall is of various dates, but the tower is ancient and picturesque, and the whole building is surrounded by trees of a dig nified beauty, elsewhere rarely equalled. Holm Rook, the seat of — Lutwidge, Esq., stands on the north banks of the river " Irt ; " much improvement is seen about it, good gar dens and pleasant walks." Muncaster Castle is the ancient family seat of the Penningtons, who have resided there and at other neighbouring buildings, from the conquest to the present day. " It stands on the north side of the river Esk, fronting to the south and west. The vale of Esk is recreative; the Castle commands an extensive land and sea prospect. Pleasant walks and gardens about the house and park. Muncaster Castle is inhabited by Lord Lind- »ey, who married the daughter of the late Lord Muncaster, by whom that noble mansion was very much improved. Ravenglass is a small but ancient sea-port town, situate on a bay7 formed by the conflux of the rivers Irt, Mite, and Esk, and is famous for the best oysters on the coast. It has little trade, though possessing every advantage for that purpose. Its market is on Saturday7. The writer admits with Mr. Hutchinson, that "The 279 little town of Ravenglass has a good inn for travellers ; made agreeable to us by the civility of the owners." Here is a free school, founded by a Cook to the Pennington family. Between Ravenglass and Devoke Water, are the ruins of the city of Barnscar. " Another piece of antiquity in this neigh bourhood, is the ruins of the city of Barnscar, Avhich is situated on a verdant hill, in the manor of Birkby, at the foot of the lake, called Devoke Water. Tradition gives this place to the Danes, who, it is said, gathered for inhabitants, the men of Drig, and the women of Beckermot, in memory of which, there is yet a popular saying, " let us go together like lads of Drig and lasses of Beckermot." " This place is about 300 yards long from east to west, and 100 yards broad, from north to south : now walled round, save at the east end, near three feet in height : there appears to have been a long street with several cross ones : the remains of house-steads, within the wbUs, are not very numerous, but on the outside of the walls they are innumera ble, especially on the south side and west end : the circumference of the city and suburbs is near three computed miles ; the figure an ob long-square : there is an ancient road through the city, leading from Ulpha to Ravenglass. About the year 1730, a considerable quantity of silver coin was found in the ruins of one of the houses, concealed in a cavity formed in a beam, , they were claimed by the lord of the manor." " We have no further information of- this treasure which, perhaps would prove the antiquity of the place." Though a description of the sublime scenery on Wast Water has been attempted in a journey from Keswick by Wast Water to Calder Bridge, . it will nevertheless be slightly7 noticed in the Ambleside excursion already extended to the foot of the lake. On the way from the Strands to the two houses called Crook, the Screes are occasionally in view ; but little of the lake is seen till the traveller arrives at Crook, where, from a field adjoining the lake and fronting the house, is ^eato cf wtask Wlatn from Croofe. Wta tfittv-six. Great Gable is at the end of a vista formed by Middle Fell, Yewbarrow, and Kirk Fell, on the lpft, and on the right by Lingmell and the northern end of the Screes, the rugged end not sharing in the composition. At the extre mity of many pleasant bays, appear the culti vated lands at Bowderdale, with Yewbarrow in a new line above them. Here are observed, at the' foot of Lingmell, the enclosures at Wast dale Head. The houses, with trees of seve ral sorts, here combine into a valuable front ground. 281 From Crook it is a short distance to the com. mon, on entering which, partly shut out on the east by a bold projection, the Screes are pre sented in awful grandeur. Beyond this project tion, in one heavenly expanse of water, is exhi bited the lake and all its pretty winding shores, bold rocks, and rocky mountains. Hence, with Buckbarrow and Middle Fell on the left, and the Screes and the water on the right, the road, after a quick succession of traverses, ascents, and descents, reaches, at the end of a mile, Ne ther Beck Bridge. Down to this bridge, ob served between Middle Fell and Yewbarrow, are various craggy heights, the principal of which, and appearing over Nether Beck, is the Hay Cock. Scarcely half way up the lake is J^rrees, on »ast--toater. jfa. dftftg-sebem 4. This view of the grand crags, bordered by the more abrupt part of the Screes, is from a rock pn the side of the lake with a solitary ash spring* ing from it : south of Bowderdale few trees stand upon the shore. Nether Beck Bridge is a good front ground either to Yewbarrow or to ScafeU, From Nether Beck Bridge, skirting the Bow derdale enclosures and the farm-house on the jeft, it is a half mile to Over Beck Bridge, |rom which there are three excellent views, • VOL, U, 2 9 282 having severally the mountains Yewbarrow, Gable, and Sea fell as distances ; the latter is J^cafJell, on asaast-toater. $o. df tftg-eisijt. Lingmell,4he Pikes, and Scafell, are here dis played. The Pikes, one rocky mountain in the middle, though higher than Scafell, appears depressed, owing to its heing at a greater dis tance from the spectator than Scafell. This scene is represented as partially obscured by clouds. By pursuing the course of Over Beck to a sharp turn will be discovered ^emharroii), from iSoto&er&ale. #o. .jFttg-nine. It is the scene described in a deviation from Over Beck Bridge, when on the way from Kes wick through Borrowdale to Calder Bridge. Yewbarrow here has a truly conical appearance, this with the fore-ground materials is rendered into a pleasing combination. From Over Beck Bridge it is a mile to the head of the lake, on the road to which Sca fell is a commanding obj ect ; the Pikes, like wise a little in advance from the bridge, begin to shew their separation by the gradual deve- lopement of that yawning aperture, Mickle 283 Door. Still in progress towards the village of Wastdale Head, the Pikes, the Door, and Sca>- fell, are lost beyond Lingmell. From Wastdale Head it is a precipitous as cent to Sty Head, having the tremendous rocks of Gable on the left, and those of Lingmell Crag on the right ; in'front Great End. Lingmell Crag is succeeded by Broad Crag, and the Pikes grandly out-topping the whole. From Sty Head the way to Ambleside is either by Sprink ling or Angle Tarns, or through Borrowdale, and thence over Greenup by Grasmere to Am bleside ; or by Rosthwaite, Bowder Stone, and Lowdore to Keswick. Carriage &oa)ra to S89ast--toater» Four wheeled carriages may travel to Wast Water more commodiously from Keswick than from Ambleside. From Keswick, in a three days journey over the same ground, to and from the lake, or otherwise on lines producing an amusing variety. All the courses on the approach to Wast Water centre at Calder Bridge ; from which bridge to the foot of the lake there is only one near road ; and that is by Gosforth and Nether Wastdale Chapel. . The shortest, but the most uneasy road, is by Scale Hill and Ennerdale Bridge to Calmer Bridge; the longest and best made road is 2 o 2 284 through Cockermouth, Workingtort, Whiteha* Ven, and Egremont to Calder Bridge. This latter rout, by leaving Workington on the left) and passing from'Cockermouth direct to White haven, is shortened two miles. On a journey- to Wast Water by Scale Hill, the acclivities are avoided by proceeding to Calder Bridge by Egremont rather than by Ennerdale Bridge. The Egremont road leaves that to Ennerdale Bridge half a mile in advance from Lampleugh Cross ; but the Egremont road, if easier than that by Ennerdale Bridge, is not only longer but more sparing in its exhibition of extensive sea and land views. Carriage Ctrttrston from &estotcfe to OTast- inater lip Cocfeermoutft, aBfittefjahen, anU <£crremont. The road from Keswick to Whitehaven has been noticed to the sixth mile stone, which stands on Whinlatter, half way between Kes wick and Cockermouth. A few hundred yards beyond this stone, is the deviating road by Swin side to Scale Hill. Though on passing from Keswick to Cockermouth the first half is supe rior to the latter, the latter half has mahy charming features; A rumbling stream, deeply engulphed in rocks and wood, is the traveller's companion all the way to the foot of the hill. Below New Orchard, on this descent, the Italian looking bridge Crossing a gully, deserves the artist's attention. The higher end of Loi'ton is gradually unfolded to the spectator on his near- 285 ihg the famous yew tree, eight miles from Kes* Wick. Here the circuitous road to Scale Hill leaves the turnpike road, which latter having passed a pretty flat of four miles, arrives at Cockermouth. After commenting on the bar ren borders of the road on the top of Whinlatter, Mr. Hutchinson thus proceeds t " Suddenly you emerge from this gigantic scene into the Vale of Lorton, through which the river Cocker runs, — a theatre formed of stupendous heights, about three miles in diameter, beautified with rich meadows, eminences covered with wood, and scattered hamlets : whilst here and there perpendicular and lofty cliffs burst from the sides of the surrounding mountains." Mr. Gilpin, speaking of this vale, says^- " This vale, unlike all the past, presents us with a landscape entirely new. No lakes, no rocks are here to blend the ideas of dignity and gran deur with that of beauty. All is simplicity and repose. Nature, in this scene, lays totally aside her majestic frown, and wears only a lovely smile." Cocfeermouffj. Tor the following account of Cockermouth and its Castle, jn addition to his observations made on the spot, the writer is considerably indebted fo Hutchinson's History of Cumber land, and to a Gentleman residing in the town. " Cockermouth is a chapelry in the parish of Brigham. It stands at the mouth of the river 2S6 Cocker, from whence the name is derived." The Cocker issues out of Crummock Water, from which, in many playful windings through the vale of Lorton, it empties itself into the Derwent at Cockermouth ; there it divides the town into two parts, both washed on the north west by.the river Derwent ; the Church, Castle, and Market Place stand on the east or Keswick end of the town, and the other part on the south-west or Whitehaven end. " The houses form two streets, in an angular figure, from the bend of which runs out the short street that leads to the Castle. One of these chief streets stands above the river Cocker, in which are the Moot Hall, Market House, and Shambles." The Church, dedicated to All Saints, was built in 1711, and rendered very commodious. There are here one Dissenting and one Qua kers' Meeting House. In the year 1785 the town contained 2652 . inhabitants. Since that time there has been no material (1796) change. Cook's Topography says 2865, but according to its last census its population was3100. Cocker mouth is a borough, and has regularly sent Members to Parliament from the year 1640 to the present time. " The street ascending to the Castle, although not commodious, from its steepness, yet seems to be the favourite of people of fortune, con taining many elegant houses." 287 €$e Castle, " now in ruins, except some apartments at the- gate, stands at the confluence of the rivers Cocker and Derwent, on a fine eminence, the whole fortress forms an irregular square. In former ages this was a place of great extent and strength : the entrance has been kept by a draw bridge and a deep ditch : the gateway tower is much more modern than any other part of the building ; the gateway is vaulted with ribbed arches joining in the Centre, and defended by massive gates and a portcullis : this tower is lofty, and commands a large prospect. By this gate, from the north, we entered a square area, each side being forty paces ; from thence, by a much narrower gateway, we passed into an in ter area, around which the principal parts of this foretress stand. The south-west front stands on the brink of a precipice above the river Derwent; by removing the rubbish on this side, the form of the ancient structures has, in part, been discovered, and shews that there had been a spacious piazza, lighted by several large windows towards the river, which was the approach to the state-room and other appart- ments in the great tower. This piazza seems to have taken its form from the cliff, as it al most semicircular. The angle which overlooks the confluence of the rivers is defended by a circular tower. The south wall rises from the brink of the eminence above the river Cocker ; 288 is defended at intervals by a large explora tory tower and a square bastion, which com mand the town ; the extremities of the wall are fortified with the circular tower before men tioned, and a square tower which forms part of the defence of the northern part of the fortress. The north side is defended by a moat, the. wall is lofty and strengthened with a square bastion. It is computed the walls are six hundred yards in compass. On each side of the gateway leading to the interior court or area, is a dun geon or vault, capable of containing forty or fifty7 persons each : a small aperture is left in the crown of the arch, to let down the unhappy wretches who were doomed to the horrid cell 5 on the side of each is a slip or loose hole, whereby7 the provissions were conveyed with a rope to the miserable inhabitants. Such seve* rities as the captives in war suffered in ancieut times, rendered the battles more bloody7, as im» prisonment was worse than death ; or rather such a doom might be called a lingering ex* ecution, "This was assuredly the baronial seat of the Lords of Allerdale ; but authors differ much about the original founder, though all seem to agree that its date is but a few y7ears posterior to the conquest. By some we are told, that it owed its origin to Waldeof, first Lord ot Aller dale below Derwent, and son of Gospatric, whose first residence was at Papcastle, but pre* ferring this situation, removed hither. By others we are told, that this castle was built soon after the conquest by William de Mes* 2S9 chines, who had this part of Cumberland by the grant of Ranulph de Meschines. The posses sions of this great barony best appears in the foregoing table of descents. " The gateway tower is ornamented with the arms of Umfrevills,. Multons, Lucies, Percies, and Nevills. That arrangement of arms points out the age of this part of the fortress. Maud or (by some authors) Matilda succeeded to the baronial honours and estates of her brother An thony, in the time of King Edward third, whose daughter and heir was dead without issue. The centre coat armour is of the Lucies, on the dexter hand cf which are Unfrevilk and Mul tons, she being the lineal descendants of the Multons, and married Umfrevill to her first husband. The sinister arms are those of Percy, the lion of Brabant, and the arms of Nevill* Percy being her second husband, and the last coat was probably given in compliment to the family with whom Reginald her second brother had made a marriage alliance, or in compliment to Lord Percy, whose first wife was a daughter of Ralph Lord Nevill. Joceline, the last Earl of Northumberland of that line, left an only- daughter Elizabeth, who married his Grace, Charles Seymore, Duke of Somerset, who, in her right, possessed the honour of Cockermouth. «• The fine eminence on which the castle of Cockermouth stands, strongly fortified by na ture, was a most eligible site for a baronial for tress and mansion. The most ancient part of the edifice i» the ruined square tower to the Vox. u. 2 p 290 north-west, under which is a spacious vault, thirty feet square, which you approach by a de scent of twelve steps from the inner area ; and this place is lighted by one small grated window, not large enough to permit the escape of any inhabitant. The vault is formed of groined and intersecting arches, supported by an octagonal centre pillar, and pilasters at the corners and sides. The pillar is perforated to contain a lead pipe, which conveyed water to those who were secured in the cell. This part of the castle may, with great probability, be attributed to the age in which Waldeof lived. To give a perfect idea of the magnificence and strength of this baronial seat, and of the taste in so early an era of the Normans, an inside view of the tower, exhibiting the remains of what was the ancient state, would be an agreeable attendant to this description. The vault was used for the chief retreat of the family, and place of security for their valuables, whenever the fortress was attempted to be stormed by an enemy. " In the year 1648, this castle being garrison ed for the King, was reduced by the Parliamen tary forces, burnt, or otherwise dismantled; and has lain in ruins ever since, except the gate house, two rooms where the old stables were, and the court-house at the east angle, where the quarter sessions of the peace for Christmas quar ter were annually held before a court-house was built in the town. There is a bowling green within the walls." Cockermouth is governed by a bailiff, annual. 291 ly chosen out of the burghers, about three hun dred in number. The Earl ofEgremont holds his courts of au dit in the castle ; the castle and many neigh bouring manors form no mean part of the exten sive possessions of that Nobleman. " The markets are on Mondays weekly, and the corn market is reckoned the third in the county. Every fortnight there is a show of cattle on the Wednesdays in the great street, from the beginning of May till Michaelmas. There are likewise two general fairs held in the market-place on Whitsun Monday and Martin mas Monday, for hiring servants. *' There is a considerable manufactory of hats, which employs about one hundred hands; and the leather trade employs about fifty hands. The whole place bears the countenance of opulence." Since the time of Mr. Hutchinson woollen, lin- nen, and cotton weaving have been introduced. "' The free grammar school was founded after the Reformation, and now contains about 30 scholars ; the parochial library is over the school. A charity school, instituted in 1784 by a volun tary subscription, now (1796) contains 63 scholars." Recently the Sunday schools have obtained a high and merited degree of celeb rity, for besides the children taught by the Independents, and Methodist's Societies, the Sunday school of the established church in- structs 343. The friendless offspring of poverty 2 p 2 292 have been sought out from their cheerless abodes, acknowledged as men and brethren, and recom mended to the one universal parent through the means of that inestimable book — the bible. Some of these miserable beings have been gra tuitously re-clothed. A society of benevolent ladies have under their direction a school for female adults. Besides these, there are several private schools. There are four friendly societies, consisting of several hundred members; these societies have produced not only much comfort to those mem bers, but been the means of considerably re» ducing the poors' rates. Here is a hospital for six poor widows, founded about the year 1770, by the Rev. Thomas Plumland. The interest of ^800, the gift of various worthy persons, is distributed in bread and money every Sunday to poor housekeepers. The dispensary to the succour of human woe, is attended with numberless advantages to the indigent sick, of the town and neighbourhood. Here is a humane society. There are several excellent inns at Cocker^ mouth; the Globe is superior in its general accommodation. " The situation of this town is beautiful, in a country well cultivated, on the banks of two fine rivers, and in a climate tempered by the mountains, which shelter the place from the ftorth-fcast, and by a happy distance from the 293 western ocean.— Beneath the castle, on the margin of the river Derwent, is a plain of con siderable extent, in which is a public walk, al most a mile in length : the stream falls over a rough channel ; the opposite banks are in til lage ; whilst the plain is laid out in meadows, bounded by a gentle ascent covered with wood. This walk is beautifully terminated at each end ; one by lofty cliffs scattered over with trees, the other by the ruins of the castle impending over the river, which is crossed by a bridge of two arches, forming a communication with the vil lage of Derwent, seen hanging on the distant declivity. " The situation of Cockermouth is low and warm, sometimes fogs in the evenings, yet very healthy, as appears by the register, as not above one person in forty dies annually. It is well watered, for, besides the two great rivers, there are also two rivulets, which afford great accom modation to the manufacturers. The rivers abound with salmon, trout, brandling, pike, eels, and the smaller fish." *' The appearance of the country is pictu resque, and pleasantly diversified with hill and dale, rocks, wood lands, and water, inclosures and open grounds. The lands consist of about one half in cultivation, and the other half heath and wastes : near the rivers the soil is fertile, in other parts barren ; the chief fuel is coal, ¦old at about threepence the Winchester bushel." Agriculture is conducted by liberal and enlight ened persons on the most approved systems. 294 The wastes have been lately enclosed and pro mise abundantly. The gateway tower of the castle, arnamented with the arms of the Umfrevills, Multons, Lu cies, Percies, and Nevills, having its portal in ruins, and the main body partially covered with ivy, is a good painter's object, especially when seen connected by the castle walls with two other square towers, from the foot of a bank sloping to the east. " Within the second court stood the mansion now in ruins. The kitchen, as it is called, has one of those monstrous chimnies so common in old mansions." The ruins and dilapidated fragments present ed from the yard of the castle are rich materials for the exercise of the pencil. From a field on the east, this picturesque an tiquity, with a portion of the town on the left and the river Derwent and Derwent Bridge on the right, is a most agreeable assemblage of parts, and a fine picture either with or without a fore-ground. The castle and houses, as viewed from Der went Bridge, is a collection of forms which on the whole make a good view, but these forms, seen through the two arches of the bridge from the margin of the stream, are both singular and pleasing ; the castle through the left and a house and summer-house of the seventeenth century through the other arch. 295 From the borders of the Derwent, in a pro gress down its northern banks to the bridge, or on the opposite side, likewise following the wa ters, are some capital exhibitions of the castle : but probably the best are those from the high grounds extending from Papeastle to the river, where the town and castle may be assisted by fore-ground, trees and the sublime mountains of Crummock 'Water. The situation of Cocker mouth, either as a place of manufacture, trade, or amusement, is scarcely equalled in Cumber land. For the purpose of trade it is excellently supplied with water, coals, and provisions. Yot commerce, by its being less than fourteen miles from the three great Cumberland sea ports, Whitehaven, Workington, and Maryport, from which towns the roads to the west and south of England pass through Cockermouth. For amusement, its local beauties, its vicinity to the grand scenery of the neighbouring lakes and mountains, and the many amusing lounging- houses near the sea. Over Derwent Bridge, at the Whitehaven end of the town, is the way to Papeastle, one mile, Maryport 7i miles, Allonby 9|, Wigton 16, and Carlisle 27 miles. At Papeastle are the foun dations of an ancient castle, supposed to be the Pipards. : Coins have been discovered ; for this was one of the stations of the Romans, when Britain was in subjection to that warlike people. From Cockermouth to Whitehaven direct it is little short of fourteen miles, but by Working ton sixteen mhes. The road is on the pleasant 296 banks of the Derwent, between Brigham and its church, to Clifton chapel, five miles from Cock ermouth. Here the nearest road to Whitehaven leaves that to Workington, but is again united with it five miles from Whitehaven, to which place it is through the villages of Dissington and Moresby. From Clifton chapel, by Great Clifton and Stainburn, with the wheeling Derwent on the right, it is three miles to Workington. S&or&tncrton " Is said to be the place where a number of un- reclaimable moss-troopers were shipped for their voluntary banishment." Here imprudently landed Mary of Scotland, after her flight from Dundrannan ; credulously trusting to the pro tection of her insidious relative Elizabeth of England. " Though of higher antiquity as a sea port than any town in Cumberland, Work ington in the year 1566 could boast only one vessel, of ten tons burden : twenty years after that period, when England commanded the seas, the Cumberland ships were only ten in number, and their mariners an hundred and ninety-eight." Mr. Pennant says, " The town extends from the castle to the sea, it consists of two clusters ; one, the more ancient, near the castle, the other, nearer the church and pier." " The Derwent washes the streeis of the town and discharges itself into the sea about a mile west : on each bank near the mouth are piers, 297 where the ships lie ; and the coals are conveyed into them from frames planted on the rail roads." " The increase of this place has been very rapid of late years and many of the new build ings are handsome ; in the old part of the town the streets are narrow and the houses ill built. The river is navigable for ships of four hundred tons burthen. There are now an hundred and sixty vessels belonging to this port, on an aver age about one hundred tons each. The chief trade in export is in coals to Ireland ; but some few are taken up for the east country service. The imports, timber, bar iron, and flax. During the summer season the situation of the place is delightful ; but the 'town cannot boast of many elegant buildings, or the streets of being well paved. The number of inhabitants is comput ed to exceed six thousand, many are wealthy, and in general the people are affable and open hearted." Workington Hall the seat of John Christian Curwen, Esq.1 is a superb modern building the work of Mr Car. The grounds have been greatly extended and beautified under the direc tion of Mr. White. " The house commands a prospect of the town, the river and its northern banks, and the western ocean to a considerable extent." " The harbour is esteemed one of the safest on this coast ; the vessels lie secure from the winds of every quarter." vol. 11. 2 a 298 " The public manufactories carried on here are of sale cloth and cordage, The Seaton Iron Foundery on the banks of the Derwent is a mile above the town. This work employs several hundred persons." " The public buildings are modern ; the church is a handsome structure with a gothic tower or steeple." " Near the town is a spacious Workhouse. Too much credit cannot be given to the Work house committee for their care of the poor, and their attention to the interests of the town," " The assembly room in the winter season is well attended. It was built at the expence of Mr. CurwCn. Here is likewise a theatre." " Within twenty years past (1794) the quays have been widened and considerably lengthened; and the bankings encreased ; a new square built, where is held the corn- market* near to which is the new Butcher's market. Schools, one endowed and the rest not." Amongst the several friendly societies insti tuted at Workington ; none is more admirable than the Sisterly Society. Of this society Mrs. Curwen is the patroness. It consists of upwards of two hundred members of whom besides Mrs. Curwen other ladies of high respectability are honorary subscribers." "#The coal trade is of the greatest impor- 299 tance. There are too sets of workings almost contiguous to the town, nine pits belonging to Mr. Curwen and five to the family of Bacon. In these coal works five or six hundred persons are employed." The salmon fishery at Workington is con siderable and the exclusive property of the Earl of Lonsdale and Mr. Curwen. The editors of the history of Cumberland suppose that the exploratory castella of Dr. Horsley is the remains of the mansion of Orme, ancestor of the Curwen family. Workington is 6^ miles from Maryport, and through the populous villages of Dissington and Moresby, and 8 to Whitehaven. Three miles from Workington atthejunctionof theshortand the long roads from Cockermoth to Whitehaven, two miles on the right and at right angles to the road is situate, the port and village of Harring* ton. The port is commodious, and at the mouth of a stream running by Stonyhaugh. The trade is considerable, sixty vessels of one hundred tons burden being employed in the exportation of coal, lime, and fine clay, all which are obtained in the neighbourhood. When Mr. Hutchinson wrote Harrington contained about 1000 inhabitants. Mr. Cook's editor gives the number 1357. Harrington church is an ancient edefice. 2 q 2 soo For an account of Whitehaven to the year 1794, resort will be had to Hutchinson's his tory of Cumberland. The alterations and im provements that have taken place since that time, have been handed to the writer by a friend residing on the spot, and will be given supplementary to those of Mr. Hutchinson. " Whitehaven is situate in a remarkable creek overlooked on every side by the adjacent lands. From the southern approach at Windmill hill, the town makes the best appearance, the eye commands the interiors of the streets and haven, and from thence the castle is a noble object." " Descending to the town from the northern road little is seen but slated roofs, greatly in a contrast to the appearance of wide streets and good houses, approached by a fine portico of red free stone. This is a work not merely of elegance, but utility, its tops being part of a road for coals from the mines to the ships in which they are deposited for exportation." " This large and wealthy town has arisen within the period of one hundred years from the mean condition of a fishing creek." The continued fewels and quarrels with the Scots rendered this country the seat of arms and war fare : which at once prevented the progress of 301 husbandry, of art, and of science. The inhabi tants with the sword in the right and the crook in the left protected their flocks and herds, but " the mines, an almost inexhaustible source of wealth, were left to enrich the days of union and peace." In those discordant times ships seldom visited the coast but as the bearers of an hostile force. The Poe a small river runs under the town to the creek which stretches eastward to Jack- a Dandy's Hill and westward to Tom Hurds rock. This rock being white is by some sup posed to have given name to the town. Others think and berhaps with more placesibility that Whitehaven derived its name from a man called White, who in the year 1502 built at Sandwativ two miles from Whitehaven a little thatched cottage, which with the date of the erection are yet remaining. ** The haven is defended by four moles of stonework, three of which project in parrallel lines from the land ; the fourth towards the south, bending in the form of a crescent, has a watch-house and battery, and at its extremity a light, house. The haven is dry at ebb tide, so that the shipping within the moles lie as in dry docks. A tonage is established here by act of parliament which affords a fund for erecting and maintaining these great works." The depth of the haven below its adjoining banks is of peculiar advantage to the delivery of the coals into the vessels ; where riding in any stage of the tide they are deposited in the holds, by 302 means of inclined planes from wooden galleries called hurries. To these galleries the coals are conducted from the pit by waggons and there instantaneously emptied by striking out their bottoms. " Eight or ten vessels of one hun dred and twenty tons burden, are loaded in a tide at the small expence of ten shillings each." " The coal mines at this place are perhaps the most extraordinary of any in the known world. Their principal entrance for men and horses is by an opening at the bottom of a hill through a long passage, hewn in the rock, which by a steep descent leads down to the lowest vein of coal ; the greater partof this descent is through spacious galleries which continually intersect other galleries: all the coal being cut away except large pillars, which in deep parts of the mine are 3 yds. high, and above 12 yds. square at the base: such great strength being there required to sup port the ponderous roof. The mines are sunk to the depth of one hundred and thirty fathoms ; and are extended under the sea to places where there is above them a sufficient depth of water for ships of large burden. These are the deep est coal mines that have hitherto been wrought, and perhaps the miners have not in any other part of the globe, penetrated to so great a depth below the surface of the sea : the very deep mines in Hungary, Peru, and elsewhere being situate in mountainous countries, where the sur face of earth is elevated to a great height above the level of the ocean." The great advancement of this place is chiefly 303 to be attributed to the Lowther family. Sir Christopher, created a baronet in 1642, was se cond son of Sir John Lowther, Knight, who purchased for his son Christopher the lands of the dissolved monastery of St. Bees. At that time the town is described as consisting of a few scattered huts along the shore of the creek. But near these huts Sir Christopher built him self a house. " We are hot told whether he won the coal mines in his time, or promoted the infant steps of commerce." Sir Christopher was ^succeeded in 1644 by .his son Sir John Lowther, who selected the situation of the present cas tle, and thereon erected a spacious mansion, which was in part rebuilt by the late James Earl of Lonsdale. It was Sir John Lowther who projected the working of the mines and improv ing the commerce of his neighbourhood, and for the purpose of giving effect to so grand a scheme received from king Charles II. A. D. 1666, a grant of all the ungranted lands within his dis trict ; and in 1678 all lying between the marks high and low water, extending from the town two miles northward. From this period com menced the flourishing estate of Whitehaven. Sir James Lowther son of Sir John entered into the great plans of his father and brought them to perfection. The rapid progress of trade is marked by the increase of inhabitants ; in 1633 the town consisted of nine or ten thatched cottages ; in 1693 the population was 2272, but in twenty years moie about 4000. Sir James had the satisfaction to see his native place rise from insignificance and obscurity, to an ele vated degree of consequence in the commercial 301 world ; to great opulence and power ; and that flourishing existence, which he had cherished with all his efforts, now makes Whitehaven boast of upwards of 16,400 inhabitants. The average number of chaldrons of coals annually exported from Whitehaven from the year 1781 to 1 792, inclusive, is 80,000 chaldrons ; from Workington, Maryport, and Harrington, 86,000 chaldrons. This increase of shipping and commerce may be principally attributed to the great attention paid to the coal and home-trade, by Sir Christo pher Lowther and his descendants ; viz. his son Sir John Lowther, Bart., Sir James Lowther, Sir William Lowther, of Halkar Hall, in Lan cashire ; to the late James Earl of Lonsdale, and lastly, to the present possessor, William Earl of Lonsdale, descended from William, third son of Sir John Lowther, Knight, who died in 1637. Sir Christopher Lowther, baronet, Sir John's second son, being the first who contemplated the improvement of Whitehaven. " The uniformity of the streets adds greatly to their beauty. Two main streets stretch down the declivity of the hill in right lines towards the haven, and are crossed by others at right angles. There are three handsome churches elegantly fitted up for the reception of large congregations." In 1697 there was only one chapel in White haven and that proving insufficient to receive 305 the congregation, Sir John Lowther in conjunc tion with the inhabitants built St. Nicholas's church, which was consecrated in 1693. " The just symmetry of this church is generally allow ed." In 1756 a fine toned organ built by Snetzler, was added to the interior : this organ is placed above the altar, and though an uncom mon it has a very grand appearance. Trinity church was consecrated in 173 5. St. James's church in 1752. A chapel intended to have been of the esta blishment built thirty years ago is now used by the Wesleyan methodists. There are likewise two other Methodist chapels, two Presbyterian meetinghouses: one Quakers, one Anabaptists ; one Glassite, one Sandemanian ; and one Roman Catholic chapel. A dispensary which is excellently supported was instituted in 1783. A large and commodious poor house erected in 1743, was enlarged, improved, and newly regulated under the authority of an act of Parlia ment obtained in 1 795. Here are two excellent, butcher's markets well supplied with meat, poultry, eggs, butter, oys ters, lobsters, turbot, soles, plaise, rock cod, and various other sorts of fish. In ,the town are three public breweries, and a fourth at Parton, 306 Two large roperies at Corkicle, one belong ing to Mr. Hartley, the other to Mr. Sargeant, the third at Bransty belongs to Mr.Brocklebank. A weekly diligence to Carlisle. Carriers to and from Workington, Maryport, Cockermouth, and Egremont three times a week ; Harrington, St. Bees, Keswick, Ambleside, Kendal, and Penrith twice ; Carlisle and Wigton once. The Cumberland packet a weekly paper was commenced in 1744. The government packet from Whitehaven to Douglas, in the Isle of Man, sails weekly. The post is daily in the evening, Tuesdays excepted, to and from London, and all parts on the road. AVhitehaven has a high reputation for ship building* An extensive sail cloth manufactory by Messrs. Hornby and Co. established in 1795 gives employment to many hands. The first association for the general benefit of its members, was established in 1781 under the title of the Tradesmans' Friendly Society-- these societies are now (1795) eighteen in num ber, five of them female. Like true brethren the members of the thirteen men's societies join in one anniversary festival, and like good and faithful subjects hold it on the fourth of 307 June ; the birthday of their earthly father the king. After having thanked their heavenly father for the blessings of the preceding year, they repair to dine at their respective houses, where the remainder of the day is passed in great conviviality, harmony, and friendship. A handsome theatre on the model of that of Bath was built in 1769, In the town were erected, in 1784, three hun dred public lamps. Sunday Schools were established in 1785. Banks, Messrs. Hartley and Co. 1786. Messrs. Moore and Co. 1793. That audacious pirate Paul Jones landed here in 1778; he did some mischief, but more was prevented by the timely alarm of one of his men ; who for that purpose had secretly withdrawn himself from the crew. There are four batteries on which are mount ed 98 cannon : of these 12 are 42 pounders and IS thirty-six pounders. The following are the principal alterations that , have taken place in Whitehaven since Mr. Hutchinson's history was published : The present population is upwards of 18,000. 2 R 2 308 A handsome market house designed by Mr. Smirk has been erected under the eye of Mr. Piele ; for the accommodation of persons selling butter, eggs, and other country commodities. A neat fish-market was likewise built a few years since. The markets are well supplied every Tuesday, Thursday7, and Saturday with excellent butcher's meat, fish, fowls, and vegetables, and perhaps at as low a rate as any other town in England. House rents are moderate and fire cheap ; and those who wish to unite amusement with econ omy will find Whitehaven well calculated for that purpose. It is a days journey only to and from the sublime scenery of Ennerdale and Wastdale ; and besides the necessaries and lux uries it produces for the table, it has not been inattentive to the recreation of the mind ; there being an extensive subscription library, and a news room well furnished with daily London, and provincial papers, shipping and commercial lists, and other species of useful information. The news room and library handsomely fitted up at the expence of the Earl of Lonsdale ; were by him presented to the town. During winter an amateur concert of vocal and instrumental music, an excellent company of comedians, and social dancing and card assem blies enliven and give additional eligibility to Whitehaven, as a place of occasional or con stant residence. 309 Of late years commerce has been considera bly extended, particularly with the West Indies, and the British settlements in North America. The present number of vessels is about two hun dred ; of these half are employed in foreign traffic, and the rest in the coal trade and in fisheries. The head inn is the Black Lion, from which runs a daily morning coach to Liverpool, Man chester, and London, through Keswick, Am bleside, and Kendal. Post chaise and gigs are kept at the Black Lion, and at the Globe. The Golden Lion is likewise a respectable inn. There are some good mathematical schools in Whitehaven ; but a marine school likely to be attended with beneficial consequences is now erecting at the expence of the Earl of Lonsdale. This school has been endowed with *£lOO a year by Matthew Piper, Esq. A national school upon the plan of Dr. Bell instructs four hundred boys and girls. The Sunday school for all persuasions will accom modate five or six hundred scholars. Henstngham chapel is reopened and endowed by the Earl of Lonsdale, with £\50 a year. A spacious Methodist chapel partly on the old ground is now building. From the refinery belonging to Messrs. John- stones and Mr. Clay, large quantities of sugar are exported to Russia. 310 An extensive manufactory of sail cloth, linen, yarn, and thread, in addition to those before mentioned, is conducted by Messrs. Bell and Co. A porcelain manufactory, the firm Messrs. Woodnorth and Co. A nightly watch has been established with police officers, as a protection to the property of the inhabitants. To Messrs. Hartley and Co.'s bank, in Coat's Lane, and Messrs. Harrison and Co.'s, in Irish- street, is added that of Messrs. Johnson and Co. in King street. Whitehaven from the approach eastward, has been greatly improved by the recent alteration in the road down Bransty Brow. It is now cir- cuitious rather than direct as heretofore. From this new line St. James's chapel, and the adja cent buildings are interestingly presented. Two years ago at a time when the labouring classes were in indigence and want, several hun dred pounds were raised for their relief, and expended in the production of a new road be tween Corkicle and Hensingham. By a change in the direction of this road Corkicle Brow was avoided, and the entrance from the south amend ed and enlivened by the exhibition of the houses in Lonsdale-place. The whole of the streets, lanes, and outlets 311 being newly paved and well lighted, have ren dered the avenues to Whitehaven equal in their accommodation to those of any other town in the north of England. Mk 33eess Mbt£. " The monastery of St. Bees is four miles from Whitehaven. It is situate in a narrow dell, with low and marshy lands to the east ; the west exposed to storms from the Irish channel." Bega an holy woman from Ireland is said in 650 to have founded a small monastery7 in Cope- land, after which a church was built to her mem ory. " This religious house being destroyed by the Danes was restored by William son to Ranulph des Meschines, Earl of Cumberland, in the time of Henry I. and made a cell for a prior and six Benedictine monks, to the Abbey of St. Mary York." " The east limb of the church is unroofed and in ruins, having no singular marks of for mer elegance, but where the communion table was placed. The whole edifice forms a cross ; the nave is used as the parish church, and the cross isle as a place of sepulture. The east end of the chancel is lighted by three long narrow windows, enriched with double mouldings, and two double pilasters, with rich capitals. On each side of the place of the altar are niches of a singular form, for statues covered with pointed 312 arches, resting on Well proportioned round pil lars, with capitals finely adorned, forming a beautiful canopy. The whole edifice is of red freestone, the south side of the chancel is orna mented by several large windows, and appears never to have had any side aisles." As an object for the exercise of the pencil, St. Bees Abbey has few striking recommenda tions ; the tower is a heavy piece of Saxon architecture, and by its plainness too strongly in contrast with the elegantly ornamented gothic of the ruin. Perhaps the best view for a repre sentation of the whole fabric is from the door of the school house, but from that place while the chancel was roofless it was unhappily and exclusively exhibited at right angles to the tower. From a garden on the north east, the lines of the building are more agreeably .asso ciated. The chancel has been recently roofed and appropriately repaired and fitted up as a divinity school, for the reception of young men intended for the service of the church ; but not designed to finish their studies at Oxford or Cambridge. The free school at St. Bees was founded land endowed by Archbishop Grindal, in the year 1587, under a charter from Queen Elizabeth. Archbishop Grindal was born within the neigh bouring township of Hensingham in the year 1519. He was contemporary with Archbishop Saiulys, and his bosom friend, The village of St. Bees contains upwards of four hundred inhabitants. rS '(7 "^~v -~ s. ; la& v'#l IX ^fc? IwTW 313 On theright handof the road from Whitehaven to, St. Bee's, is that bold promontory, St. Bee's Head ; which is " a mark for mariners entering the channel. This place abounds with sea fowl, and the favourite plant samphire." Cjjremont. It is six miles from Whitehaven through Hen- singham, and seven by St. Bee's to the ancient town of Egremont. " This is a clean little town situate. on the north side of the river Ehen, and consisting chiefly of one long street ; much of the counte nance of antiquity is retained, several of the houses are piazzaed in front : there are indeed some new buildings in a modern stile, but they are in the skirts of the town. The place is justly esteemed pleasant, being surrounded with good lands, the inclosures, in general, well fenced, and the meadows productive." .William I. sometimes called the conqueror, gave Cumberland and Westmoreland to Ranulph de Meschines, who after distributing the nor thern and eastern frontiers amongst his friends, presented his brother William de Meschines, with the great barony of Gopeland, in which Egremont is situate. Here " the said Lord William de Meschines seated himself, and built a castle on a round topped hill, and caUed the same Egremont. vol. u. 2 a 314 Egremont gives the title of Earl to the family of Wynlfeam, and the Earl ofEgremont, inherits from his ancestors by descent, gift, and pur chase, their extended possessions in the county of Cumberland* " The ruins of Egremont castle stand on an eminence to the west of the town. This for tress is not of very great extent, but bears sin gular marks of antiquity and strength. The approach and grand entrance from the south, has been kept by a draw bridge over a deep moat ; the entrance to the castle, is by a gate way vaulted with semicircular arches, and guard ed by a- strong'tower : the architecture of this tower, Which is the chief part of the fortress now standing, points out its antiquity to be coe qual to the entry of the Normans at least. The outward wall has enclosed a considerable area of a square form, but it is now gone so much to decay, that no probable conjecture can be made in what particular manner it Was fortified. On the side next the town a postern is remaining. To the westward, from the area, there is an ascent le three narrow gates, standing close to gether, arid in a straight line, which have com* munieated With the outworks : these are appa* rently of' more modern architecture, and have each been defended with a portcullis. Beyond these gates is a lofty mount, on which anciently stood a circular tower, the western side of which endured the rage of time, till within these few years. This mount is artificial, and in height seventy-eight perpendicular feet above the ditch, 315 which surrounds the whole fortress: It is not improbable but this tower was erected on the crown of a Danish fort ; for such is the appear ance of the mount. The whole fortification is surrounded with a moat, more properly so called than a ditch, as it appears to have been walled on both sides ; this is strengthened with an out ward rampier of earth, which is five hundred paces in circumference. A small brook runs. on the eastern side of the castle, and it may be presumed, anciently filled the moat. The mode of buflding which appears in part of the walls, is rather uncommon, the construction being of large thin stones, placed inclining, the courses laying in different directions, so as to form a kind of a feathered work, the whole run toge ther with lime and pebbles, impenetrably strong; it seems to have been copied from the filling parts of the Roman wall." " One cannot enter a place where such marks of ancient magnificence are seen, 'and where every object strikes the eye with proofs of for mer pomp and power, and of present desertion, decay, and desolation, without some melancholy reflections, A contemplative visitor is apt to exclaim, how fluctuating are the affairs of man ! how changeable are all sublunary things I these towers submit to the destroying hand of time, — and this once impregnable fortress yields itself to every assailant. — How are thy honours wast ed, and thy pride brought low ! thy military powers are no more; and thy magnificence sinks in the dust— the shouts of victory no longer are re-ecbod from thy walls, and the voice of 2 s 2 316 festivity hath forsaken thee ! — authority and rule are rent from thy hands, and thy conquering banners are delivered up to the destroying hand of time, who yields them to the darkness of oblivion ! — rthy towers are no longer the abode of strength, nor thy chambers of security ! — where the haughty hero trod, returning with the spoils of his enemy, and the honours of vic tory, amidst the acclamations of his troops ; the lazy ass stands in his midday dream, shadowing his drowsy eye with heavy ear ! tribulation takes the seat of hospitality, and where thy jocund guests laughed over the sparkling bowl, adders hiss, and owls sing the strains of melancholy to the midnight moonshine, that sleeps upon thy mouldering battlements ! " " I am apt to believe this castle was seated on a Danish fortification, and that this place has been witness to many bloody conflicts, as appears by the monuments scattered on all lands in its neighbourhood. The present name of Egre mont seems derived from its ancient possessors, the Normans, and being changed by a trifling corruption of their language, carries the same meaning, and implies the Mount of Sorrow." The church of Egremont is dedicated to St. Mary, it was given by William de Meschines to the cell of St. Bee's, appertaining to St. Mary in York. In the reign of Edward I. Egremont sent members to parliament, but it was disfranchised at its own petition, as it is said to avoid the ex penses of representation. 317 Egremonts marketday ison Saturday. It is well supplied with grain and provisions of all sorts : its neighbourhood abounds with coals, in fine red freestone, and in lime stone. The fair is held on the 19th of September. Here is a paper mill, and a manufactory of sail cloth. The town is governed by a sergeant and a jury. The pop ulation is upwards of 1500. " On the adjoining common are several tu muli, particularly, one of loose stones, forty paces in circumference : not far from it is a cir cle of large stones, ten in number, forming an area of fifty paces in circumference." The castle and the town from many points on the river Ehen, and the neighbouring lands, present many pleasing assemblages of the pic turesque. The junction of the roads by Whitehaven, and that by Scale Hill, from Keswick to Wast Water, is at Egremont. From Egremont it is five miles of pleasant road to Calder Bridge, from which place by Gosforth and Nether Wast dale chapel to Wast Water, the country has been already described. ^etrestrian trip from Mastbale S&eafc to tfte $ifees or Msb Man, anU thence fci> JMtc-- ftie Scar to ffroes, tit (iMtoale. The Pikes are the highest part of that vast mass of mountain reaching from Seathwaite, in 318 Borrowdale, to Wast Water. Perhaps the whole of this extended mass, with all its various sum mits, may with propriety be called Scafell ; and Great End probably had its name as being ori ginally considered a part of that mountain. Of this combination the Wastdale shepherds, term that part, which is south of Mickle Door, Scafell : and the highest part on the north east, the Pikes. But the Borrowdale shepherds, call this elevated point, the High Man, on Scafell, to distinguish it from other heaps of stones nearer Borrowdale, denominated by them, the Pikes. The writer thinks that to prevent a con fusion in names, the highest of these points, would with propriety be termed, the High Man, and be thereby known from the Langdale Pikes, which are frequently called the Pikes, unaccom panied by Langdale, a word denoting their local habitation. The writer on the 16th of September, 18 1 6, in company with Mr. Jonathan Otley, the day they passed through Ennerdale-dale, and met with Captain , of the Royal Navy and his lady, reposed at the house of Mr. Thomas Ty son. That day Mr. John Wilson, author of the City of the Plague, had travelled from Wast dale Head to Elleray, by Sty Head, Sprinkling, and Angle Tarns, in company with others, all en horseback ; a pretty rough journey for horses. But Mr. Wilson is not only a man of feeling, but a man of spirit. Lingmell obscures the morning sun from 319 Wastdale Head. In winter that luminary is hid from the inhabitants till noon. On looking from the front of the house at an early hour, the rocks on Gable were mildly tipped with light; all below in one solemn and majestic gloom, enwrapped individuality in density ; but above the purple bason that so deeply involved us, the blue welkin gave a Spirited outline to the surrounding mountains. After breakfast we were accompanied by Mr. Tyson down the meadows to the river which descends from Sty Head, and afterwards runs at the foot of Lingmell. Having crossed this river, we commenced our ascent to the High Man ; first steeply over rugged ground, and perhaps a mile on the side of a wall, ending on the ridge of a hill. Here we turned on the left at right angles, and saw in front, Gable, hung in azure, and so powerfully lighted up as to exhibit its fine contour, extraordinary craggy projections, and deep recesses to very great ad vantage. On the right Mickle Door, having on each side the stupendous rocks depending from Scafell and the Pikes, is the most magnificent assemblage of its kind in England. These rocks not in detached fragments like those upon the surface of the pillar 5 but in a grandeur of breath, are seen in places overhanging. On a turn to the right the passage becomes steeper, and tho.ie ascending to the pikes, if not fatigued, may do well to make a short deviation on the left, to the top of Lingmell Crag, and there (unless they reserve it for the Pikes) have a fine prospect of the circumscribing highlands. After various 320 traverses the course in a grand sweep to the right, at the top of stupendous rocks, turns again to the left, and alternately over stony im pediments, and a rich velvet, like moss, the food of the Reindeer, to the summit of the Pikes, or High Man. The High Pike, or Man, is 3160 feet above the level of the sea. The lower Pike, is about 250 yards south east of the High Man, or Pike, and only 3100 feet above the salt wa ter level. This is the most sublime and commanding elevation in England, and happy where we in our day, for the enjoyment of the objects there displayed. The Whole encircling horizon being free from cloud, and excepting the ridge extend ing from Wanthwaite Crags, towards HelveUyn, from amalgamating vapours ; but to the west a portion of the vast extent of country was brilli antly illuminated. The sea and the rivers mean dering to it from the mountains, glittered re- splendentby in the noontide sun. Westward lies Scafell, which Janus like, be ing double faced, here presents his roughly marked front; Eskdale and Wastdale enjoy his smooth and smiling face ; Scafell obscures part of the Screes, and Wast Water. The moun tains north of that lake, seen from this elevated stand, having lost their lowland shapes, are scarcely recognized, except by their relative situations. These most particularly are Buck barrow, Middle Fell, the Chair, Seat Allan, Knot Ends, Gosforth Crag, and Yewbarrow. The more aspiring Hay Cock, Pillar, and Gable, 321 retain more of the forms presented by them, from the lower grounds. Though good here ; Gable's lines are not equal to those exhibited on Wast Water ; nor as first observed from Lingmell. Grasmire, and on its left the Butter mere "mountains, and on its right all the sum mits reaching to Causey Pike, with the inter mediate Bays Brown, Robinson, Hindsgarth, Dale head, Maiden Moor, and Skiddaw finish ing, the scene are a magnificent assemblage. Sty Head tarn appears a spot and blue, black or white, as depending on the colour of the re flected heavens ; Sprinkling on its side, and be yond it the deep dell of Seathwaite, Castle Crag, Grange Crag, and Gate Crag, on their left, shutting out all Derwent Water to the west of Friar Crag, shew Lonscale Fell, in distance. Beyond Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag, Saddle back and Wanthwaite Crags, and through the intervening portal, the upstretching line of blue skirting the east of Cumberland. From Wanth waite Crags, all the pointed tops to the pinacle of Helvellyn; having between them and the spectators, stand the high Seat above Wythburn, and Glaramara with other neighbouring, Bor rowdale high lands. Through the depending lines of Glaramara and Bow Fell, appear the Langdale Pikes, and beyond them, a portion of the middle of Windermere, and iu remote dis tance, the vast miscellaneous assemblage of seas, flats, and mountains, extending from Helvellen, and including from that superb elevation to Windermere, St. Sunday Crag, Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Scan dale Fell, and Wansfell, with ether Westmorland and Yorkshire ranges j y»l. ?, St 322 Whernside and the crown topped Ingleborough, are amongst the latter. On the right of Bow- fell in a number of sharp points, are displayedj the Fells of Coniston, Little Langdale and Seath waite; the Old Man starting above the rest. Birks, in Eskdale, though inferior in height to these its eastern neighbours as rising from lower land, has an imposing appearance. More remote is Devoke Water, and at an extensive distance, Black Coom, in the south of Cumberland, which figuring between the river Duddon and the Irish sea, has a striking effect amongst the humbler swells by which it is surrounded. South east of the south of Cumberland, may be seen, on a clear day, Low Furness, and the isle of Walna, and, perhaps, on one day in twenty, the Welsh mountains. Terminating the charming vale of Esk, appear the rivers Esk, Mite, and Irt ; all meeting and forming a bay at RaVenglass, at the mouth of which the beach is seen verging southward, and on the north, till arrested by the intervention of Scafell; on the right of which it re-appears ; but beyond Nether Wastdale and Gosforth, it is again obscured by the elevations northward. This aspiring station commands a more subs- lime and perhaps not less elegantly varied range of mountains, dales, and sea views, than either Skiddaw, or Helvellyn. If Skiddaw in its pan oramic exhibition excells the higher Pike, it is only in its views of towns and buildings, and of Derwent water, and the rich and lovely vale spreading thence to Bassenthwaite. But these appendages to Skiddaw are less delightful from its top than on the progress upwards. 323. The summit of Scafell in a straight line is about twelve hundred yards distant from the higher Pike ; but the line of travel from one summit to the other, is over a painfully ruggid passage, and of a length not less than two miles. On Scafell grows (says Mr. Hutchinson) " that species of moss which is the food of rein deer. Within this century several red deer were there, one was chaced into Wast Water and drowned within the memory of several persons living." The direct road from Keswick to the Pikes, is by Rosthwaite, and Seathwaite, to Stockley Bridge, thence with the river on the right, and Allan Crags on the left, to join the horse road from Borrowdale, by Sty Head, and Sprinkling Tarns to Eskdale. Or from Stockley Bridge to proceed to Sty Head Tarn, which keeping on the left to pass up the Eskdale road to Sprink ling Tarn, and there meet the recommended line of ascent under Allan Crags, From Sprink ling Tarn, the best course, after having pro ceeded more than a quarter of a mile toward* Esk Haws^ is to turn on the right on the sou thern side of Great End, and to high ground where on the left are, 111 Crag, and Dove Crag, and on the right, the Wastdale Broad Crag. From this elevated ground, the Pikes, or (ac cording to the shepherds of Borrowdale) men are in view to the highest, of which it is through a hollow to the shivering side of the last steep. On the 7th of June, 1815, Mr. Otley, with 2 t 2 324 Mr. Edward Birkett, guide and fisherman, left Keswick at five in the morning, and having breakfasted at Rosthwaite, journied to Seath waite, from which they ascended to Sty Head, and Sprinkling Tarns, gaining the High Man by the way just described. From the High Man, Mr. Otley and I de scended, and at the end of half a mile, winding among and over large stones, came to Mickle Door. The footing at this door is grassy, and its middle a sharp ridge, from which, through immense rocks, is an opening on the south west to Wastdale head ; and on the south east over the heads of Eskdale, and Seathwaite, to the Coniston mountains, on either hand grand, romantic and awfully interesting. The Crags on the south west, though seem ing frightfully to oppose all passage, have been ascended as the readiest way to the top of Sca fell, and amongst other adventurers by Mr. Thomas Tyson, of Wastdale Head, and Mr. Towers, of Toes : but Messrs. Otley, and Bir kett, contented themselves by proceeding for some distance, in the direction of Eskdale, to a deep fissure, through which they scrambled to the top . of Scafell, and thence descended to Wastdale Head, a decent days march for a man like Birkett, then 66 years of age. From Scafell is gained the loss of sea sustain ed at the Pikes, but this in no wise compensates for the loss of highland view, and that of the lake of Windermere ; the Pikes obscuring part 325 of Saddleback, and all the range of Fells, ex tending from Wanthwaite Crags to Helvellyn. From Mickle Door we passed steeply down hill, towards Eskdale, on the way taken to Scafell the year before by the two guides. In front we had an extraordinary prospect of the Coniston mountains, which with an appropriate foreground of rock ; arranged the whole into a superb and masterly composition. This part of the journey was steep and varied, sometimes grassy, but frequently over rough Crags, hav ing the vast and ponderous rocks of ScafeU on the right, and the base of the lowest of the Pikes here, called Broad Crag on the left. As we proceeded Eskdale opened on the eye, and exhibited besides others, its mighty and storm beaten barriers, 111 Crag, Great End, and Bow Fell. At the foot of this declivity is the road from Borrowdale, by Sty Head, and Sprink ling Tarns, and Esk Haws, to Eskdale. To wards this latter place, the track is for some time in a tolerably straight line, and on an easy fall to steeper ground, whence in circuitous windings it is lowered to a picturesque flat, on which it is half a mile to Toes. Toes is a capital farm house, erected by Mr. John Towers, father of Mr. Thomas Towers, the present proprietor. It is the highest in Esk dale, on the Western banks of the river Esk, Brotherill-keld being the highest on the eastern. The grounds rising from Toes are agreeably 326 spread over with wood. The sublime heights of Wastdale, Eskdale, and Seathwaite, aided by the foregrounds of rocks, and trees presented from this dale, may be numerously and excel lently associated. It was a mild and pleasant evening when we arrived at Toes, where we were kindly received ; but the following morning was dark and wet, and the craggy steeps the objects of our anxi ous gaze, were wrapped in impenetrable gloom, notwithstanding which, in hopes of change, we determined to return to Ambleside by the way we had chalked out, and forthwith steered our course, though with little advantage on the eastern banks of the Esk, from which we devi ated to the Mosedale end of Seathwaite, and having left Cockley Beck, a mile on the right, and passed the farm house in ruins, called Great Scale, proceeded over Wrynose to Ambleside. From Cockley Beck there is a way to Coniston over Walna Scar, and another to Broughton, through the vale of Seathwaite, the Coniston road leaving the bottom near Seathwaite chapel. This romantic deep has been already describ ed and amongst other parts, 8I3allotooarrou) Cracr. (No, 60.) This part of the river Duddon, has a stony bed, above which, the perpendicular rock on 327 the right, is called pen. The mountain shewn through the vista of skreening steeps is Birks. ^ftio'Q'ato. At that season of the year when strangers visit Keswick, with the intention of witnessing the grand and beautiful scenes by which it is surrounded, a journey to the top of Skiddaw is generally undertaken, on the first favourable day after their arrival. Skiddaw by some is said to be 3022 feet above the level of the sea, and 2911 feet above Der went Water ; the latter deduced from a mean of various barometrical observations, made by Mr. Otley, and other persons. In the year 1817, Mr. Greatorex in a three days survey, levelled from the summit of the mountain to the lake, and gives its height 2808 feet above Derwent Water. Helvellyn is said to be 3070, Scafell 3100, and the highest Pike or High Man, 3160 feet above the level of the sea ; consequently the High Man, according to Otley and others, is 138 feet higher than Skiddaw. Skiddaw is less difficult of ascent than the rest of the superior elevations, and the road from the town, is so conducted, as to render its travel easy either on foot or horseback. Num. bers of horses on the daily practice of surmount" ing this hill, pace it, up or down, with as little trepidation as they pass a flat. A lady of light weight may ride to the top of Skiddaw without 328 alighting, and descend it to the town in safety ; if in the steepest parts some one manages her horses head. But it is a relief to both the rider and the horse occasionally to dismount. The nearest horse and foot road to Skiddaw, and that which has to the present time been used, is on the Wigton road, by Bassenthwaite to Great Crosthwaite ; thence in a deviation to the right on the Threlkeld road a quarter of a mile, where it turns, at right angles up a pretty steep hill, called Spooney Green, to its junction with Mr. Calvert's road, one mile and a quarter from Keswick. All this rise presents in retrospect a glorious view of the town, the lake, and the charming scenery of Ormathwaite. J^fcfofcato ftj> tfje orftijje near <£reta 3Banfe. William Calvert, Esq. of Greta Bank, and John Banks, Esq. of Keswick, to whom this bridge belongs, have with a higly creditable liberality given permission to the writer to an nounce to strangers, that they may use it either on foot or horseback, as a passage to the ter race road, extending from Greta Bank to its union, with the old accustomed way by Spoony Green ; and farther that Mr. Calvert wiU like wise allow persons on foot, or on horse back, to ascend to or return from Skiddaw ; on this road which for scenic beauty is unequaled in the en virons of Keswick. This new approach to Skiddaw, travels the 329 Penrith road more than half a mile, and chiefly on the pleasant borders of the river Greta, over which appears the bridge : on the northern side of this bridge, the road somewhat steeply as cends to- that from Great Crosthwaite, by Brund holm toThrelkeld. From this junction it is on that road to Greta Bank, where on the left is the delightful terrace road already mentioned. On entering this road the eye is rivetted on the mountains1 of Newlands, Braithwaite, and Thornwaite, and the wooded enclosures skirt ing their feet, and with the leafy assemblage which sport over the middle ground, and thence advancing on the eye, are formed into fore grounds. Over the kitchen garden is a fine burst on Grisedale Pike. Beyond the wood of larches in a new and lively mixture of nature and art, are seen, the town of Keswick, and both ends of Derwent Water, with its craggy boundaries. Bassenthwaite, and its intermediate lands, display the seats and farms on every hand, dilating from the church towards the en vironing barriers. From a shelving green bank appears Ormath- waite, and the busy road connecting it with Lyzick. The whole of the widely expanded val ley here in view, at every step, increases in space and beauty, for it is worthy of observation, that the charms of a wooded level can never be properly appreciated from the lower lands, and the quan tity of wood, and the extent of the district over which it is spread, will always determine 'the proper point of elevation. Ormathwaite so splendidly surrounded by majestic trees, and all vol. u. 2 u 330 the populous and beautifully embowered plain, extending from lake to lake, enraptures the eye, and fills the mind with pleasure ; but as in this and other similar spectacles, there is one point only where the arrangement is most truly valu able, that point is not much higher than the first presentation ; after which it becomes map like, and in proportion as the mountains lose their beauty and their forms, so do the fields in an inverse ratio decrease in beauty as their shapes become more evident. But this reason ing can in no wise detract from the delights of elevated rambles, where the admirer and the painter of nature's wildly sweeping lines, derive each their proportion of gratification ; the for mer by the pleasures of imagination, whfle the latter at every glance of the eye is furnished with hints for improvement in his practice. In advance from the junction of the old and Mr. Calvert's road, at the termination of a deep ravine, from the second side of an acute angle, is presented the church, the neighbouring seats and rich woods, rendered by Grisedale with its fine line as a background into a pretty interest ing picture. Onwards fifty yards is an exqui* site view of Keswick and the lake, with the Borrowdale, Langdale, and Wastdale mowi* tains in distance. Though too high for the purposes of an artist, this is, perhaps, the best stand for a general prospect of the wide extend ed horizontal surface, commencing at Grange and ending at Withop ; for at every superior elevation the spectator has his valley scenes in common with the birds. One mUe andlhree 331 quarters from Keswick, an occupation road of Mr. Calvert's turns on the left under Skiddaw towards Bassenthwaite, but the Skiddaw road two miles and a quarter joins that over the Gale, from Bassenthwaite to Threlkeld. This Threl- keld road is that to Skiddaw, though only a few yardsv for just beyond a gate it turns on the left at right angles by the side of a fence, on the pleasant segment of a large circle, to. a hollow at the foot of the steepest hiU on the ascent. On the way from the above gate, a road turns on the right to the lead mines, under the Littledale pike end of Lonscale Fell. Be yond that deviation ; one hundred yards short of the hollow, are in sight, over a corner of Lonscale Fell, the Great and Little Mel! Fell, between which mounts is the nearest carriage road from Keswick by UUs Water, to the Inn at Patterdale. In the direction of the foot of Lonscale Fell, are seen, amongst other build ings, Westco, in Threlkeld, Wanthwaite Mill, Hill top, and Lowthwaite, in St. John's vale, with the pointed range stretching from Wanth waite Crags to Helvellyn, neared by Stricket Dodd, and the Great How ; the space between Helvellyn and Latrigg is filled up by the Bend, Iron Crags, and Bleaberry Fell. Derwent Wa ter is obscured by Latrigg. On the right of Latrigg appears Grisedale Pike, Whinlatter, and Barf; Bassenthwaite Water being cut off by Skiddaw and Dodd. Here is a pretty peep at the vale of Crosthwaite. From the hollow the road rises precipitately for almost a mile, one -third of the way it crosses 2 u 2 332 a wall to the common. On this ascent Derwent Water -is gradually unfolded ; and about one furlong north west of the gate is presented its whole encircling and beautifully embayed coast, its islands, and its fertile, with its savage boun daries. All the way from Stable Hills to Por tinscale, and thence to Ormathwaite, is one ex tensive plot of smiling cultivation, enlivened by the lively town of Keswick, and all the seats, farms, and cottages, which sheltered by shady bowers, and connected by waving enclosures, and scatterings of trees, is a display of objects so charming as to rivet admiration. This is the point where the high mountains of Langdale, Coniston, Eskdale, Borrowdale, Wastdale, But termere, and Newlands, are observed in an ar rangement superior to their appearance from any other point, and not only as offering an as semblage for visual recreation, but as a subject for the pencil of an artist, is well deserving his attention. Latrigg cuts off agreeably on the left,- and by the aid of a side ground on the right, the fields lying between Ormathwaite and the vicarage, may be obscured at pleasure, and the whole rendered into an excellent composi tion. On the left Bleaberry Fell, and on the right Causey Pike, are the extremities of this vast collection of high lands. The High Pike on ScafeU stands pre-eminent, but Bow Fell, Hanging Bield, and Great End, Gable, the Pillar, and High Crag, are likewise striking ob jects. The parabolic summit of Stickle Pike, spen beyond Wallow Crag, generally attracts at tention. The most remote of these upstretch ing lands, are the Fells of Coniston, seen be- 333 yond Stickle Pike, and Bow Fell. Leaving this place on the, right is the wall, a companion to the road nearly to the end of its steepest part ; as it flattens it turns on the left, and over very easy ground to a fine spring of water, a little short of the foot of the first of the Peaks on Skiddaw. Beyond this well having the first and second summits, or men as they are called on the left, the road on an easy ascent is a beau tiful beaten path; not the work of men, but horses, which by. their constant tread have de- troyed vegetation, and rendered it as even gen erally as a pavement of flags. On the right of this road, is that immense inhospitable waste Skiddaw Forest which presents at its distant ends various pointed hills, and remotely beyond them the country extending from Carlisle to Penrith, and the high lands half way between the eastern and the western coast. At the end of the second of Skiddaw's tops, this road gradual ly obscuring, is lost on ascending the third Man, but as there are~seven distinct tops or heaps of stones, they will be noticed in succession, though the usual and the best line for those on horse back, is first to reach the top of the third summit. But pedestrians wishing .to witness the scenes presented from these several points, may~ advance from the Well before-mentioned in a westward direction, and by a gentle rise on the right, presently gain the first peak ; from which Mill- beck, and the neighbouring enclosures can alone be observed ; and there is probably not another equally elevated piece of land in England, that looks so immediately down upon so rich a farm- 334 ing district, as this first Man. Here spotted with houses and trees, apparently not larger than Dutch toys and cabbage sprouts, the hedge rows are distinctly visible ; while the bordering hills exhibit one vast chaos ; from which, form is gradually assumed as the mountains increase in height and distance. This grand and singu lar spectacle comprehends an entire bird's eye view of the valley, including Derwent Water from Grange, nearly to the head of Bassenth waite, but not the lake, being hid by Dodd and Longside ; thoughtheir connecting silver thread, the Derwent is seen in sweet meanderings through the wooded vale. To a great extent all the horizon is here visible, except a por tion of the flat country, reaching on the north west from Skiddaw to the sea ; which is hid by the second of these elevations. A conical topped knoll on that part of Skid daw called Long Side, is seen from the first, and from the second Man ; but from the second with more of Long side ; the third from the second Man hiding the northern flats. South ward from the second Man much of the lower grounds are obscured by the intervention of the first Man. Ascending on the segment of a large circle uniting the second and third, the pedes trian will join the there blind tract to the third of these elevations. Those on horseback arriv ing at the opening between these points will have an astonishing, and probably unexpected burst on Derwent Water. From the third Man may be observed, a con- siderable portion of the head and foot of Bas senthwaite Water, the middle being hid behind Long Side ; which here assumes a new, though not less rugged appearance than from the first and second tops. Derwent Water with its winding shores and wild environing mountains is here visible, and the whole vast of the sur rounding country, save that on the western coast being cut off by the sixth or highest point on Skiddaw. The presentations from the heaps of stones denoting the fourth and fifth of Skiddaw's tops, being less interesting than the third and sixth, will not be noticed. The sixth is the grand elevation, and the point where all who make this excursion usu ally remain a greater length of time than upon the Other points ; and with the' intention not only of surveying the highlands, but the exten sive agricultural plains of low land, which bor dering the sea coast, thence extend to the recesses of the mountains. This would be in^ deed a most commanding station, did it exhibit at one and the same time the mountains, flats, and lakes, but from this place Derwent Water is not seen, being obscured by the summits on which the third, fourth, and fifth, heaps of stones are placed ; these likewise hide some of the high ground lying between Wythburn and Langdale, and besides others Stickle Pike. On the right of this third Man is presented in an eyeful only in the opinion of some persons, one of the most magnificent assemblages in Eng- 336 land ; this is a succession of five, several ranges of mountain seen outtopping each other from a stripe of the lovely valley to the highest of the Pikes. Grisedale in one grand line stretches from the enclosures at Braithwaite to its Pike, succeeded in the second range by7 Barrow, Stile End, and Uterside. Rising from the fields of Newlands, the third range commences with Rolling End, whence aspiring are Causey Pike, Scar Crag Top, Sail, 111 Crags, and Grasmire, the latter lessening the consequence of the Pike of Grisedale by appearing over its top. The fourth line in this wild combination is composed of Cat Bells, Maiden Moor, Dale Head, Hinds- garth, Robinson, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike. The fifth and last is that sublime chain of summits extending on the south from Coniston, to Ennerdale on the north, amongst these the High Pike or Man, standing supreme ly amongst his vassals, has on the left Great End, Hanging Knott, Bow Fell, and the Fells of Coniston : on the right Lingmell Crags, Great Gable, Kirk Fell, Black Sail, the PiUar, the Steeple, and the Hay Cock ; with Yewbar row, and- part of the Screes through the pass at Black Sad. On the right of Grisedale Pike and Hobcarten Crag is Low Fell, succeeded by Whinfield Fell, over which in a clear atmos phere may be observed more than the northern half of the Isle of Man, and on a mistless sun ny evening, perhaps, one day out of a hundred, Ireland. The north end or foot of Bassenth waite Water is here seen, the head being ob scured by Long Side. Armathwaite the seat of Sir Fredrick Fletcher Vane, Bassenthwaite 337 Halls, and Chapel, Scarness, Bradness, and many other buildings greatly enliven the half circle of beautifully wooded enclosures spread ing from the foot Of the lake on the east and west, which every where so grateful tor the eye are not less so to the heart, as furnishing plenty to the more savage and fellish districts on its south. The river Derwent from Ouse bridge in its progress towards the sea may in places be traced* and distinctly seen upon its banks the town and castle of Cockermouth. On its left on the sea coast, and at the mouth of the Der went, the sea port town of Workington, and five and ten milesnorth of Workington observed on the right of Cockermouth, the towns of Mary port and Allonby. AU the sea coast is here in view from St. Bees Head by Sol way Frith to Rock- cliff Marsh, the northern and southern bounda ries of the Esk and Eden, the latter river travel ling in a serpentine course often miles after hav ing watered the city of Carlisle. Over the nor thern endof Skiddaw scarcelyseven miles distant, at the foot of Binsey is Ireby, and on the right of Ireby, twelve miles off, Wigton. Carlisle with its Cathedral, and other prominent buildings, in that ancient city, may be plainly seen, when exhibited under the favourable influence of a thin intervening medium; and mosthappilywhen from a gloomy background it is brilliantly light ed up by powerful sunshine. A- spying glass on such occasions is a pleasing appendage, to this, and othec. similar journies, and a telescope of great magnitude and powers secured by a building just large and firm enough to prevent its being injured, during summer, and accessible VQL. II. 2 v 338 only to guides and other subscribers would be highly amusing. The scotch counties of Wig ton, Kirkcudbright, and Dumfries, seen beyond Solway Frith, are displayed with their irregular surfaces, in a grand finish to the fertUe plains of Cumberland, Out of Kircudbrightshire rises Scruffell, the loftiest of the southern highlands. Carlisle may be discovered on the left of Calva and the High Pike ; the former in the middle, and the High Pike at the extremity of the in land part of. that wild waste called Caldbeck Felis, and in the blue range of Cheviot, and many other hUls which run southward towards the stately pinacle of Crossfell. A line of sum mits amongst which is Carrock Fell reaches on the east and south over the immense moorlands called Caldbeck , Fells, and the Skiddaw forest from High Pike to Saddleback. The narrow stripe receding from this line of brown to the blue distance, is of that country, extending from Carlisle to Penrith, and presents High Pike and Carrock, and in the intervening space High Hesket, and by its side Tarn Wadling. Hes ket half way between Carlisle and Penrith is nine miles from each. On the right of Car rock is Bowscale Fell, and Saddleback, and be yond the junction of the latter two is shewn Penrith. Numerous remote objects in a long extended line appear over all the summits inter mediate from Penrith to the high mountains, seperating Ulls Water and Haws Water, except ing Linthwaite Pike on Saddleback which hides of that range a small portion only. Saddleback here displays its pointed top and smooth nor thern surface; the broad, bold, and broken steps 339 of that interesting elevation being presented from' the south and east. Lonscale FelPand Littledale Pike, at its eastern end, partly ob scure that part of Saddleback called High Row Fell, beyond which is seen High Pike and Wanthwaite Crags ; and over the intersection of the lower end of Skiddaw with the first Man in a fine line the lofty summit of Helvellyn. Over the flat in St John's vale, and Stricket Dodd, are Great Dodd, Styx, and Whiteside ; and on the left of the latter mountain the aspir ing peak of Catchedecam. On the south of Helvellyn is the continuation of highlands here ending with Seat Sandal, in Grasmere, partly hid by the Castlerigg elevations beyond which is Steel Fell. Through the opening formed by the intersections of Seat Sandal, and Steel Fell* is descried that part of Loughrigg Fell which rises from the lake of Grasmere, and beyond it the hill called Claife seperating Esthwaite Water from Windermere, and near the foot of the lat ter lake the round topped Gummers How ; immediately beyond which in favourable wea ther may be seen Lancaster, having on its weSt that widely extended salt water level called Moorcambe Bay. The third Man obscures part of the heights extending from Wythburn to Borrowdale ; and a portion of that more remote distance the Coniston mountains, all visible from the third Man, and to render complete the whole circle ; the objects observed from the third Man will in this place be noticed. Der went Water from the third eminence is seen closely environed on the south, east, and west, by a half circle of rugged acclivities open only 2 v 2 340 dh the north towards Bassenthwaite. Every feature of the " winding shores and solitary bays" on , Derwent Water are there in view, with the busy town and other dwellings on its borders. The rude and complicated uplands receding behind each other from Wallow Crag on the left, and Causey Pike upon the right, to the mountains of Coniston is an exhibition on which the most fastidious admirer of elevated scenery might gaze with wonder and delight. From the High Man it is only a short dis tance, and on a depressed line to the seventh, and last of the heaps of stones on Skiddaw, pre senting in front the little lake of Over Water, and at its head Whitefield, the seat of Gil- bank's, Esq. Ireby and Uldale are seen on the other side of Over Water. Between the top of Skiddaw and the lake of Bassenthwaite, the numerous narrow openings are thus happily described by Mr. Housman. " On looking down the profound precipice in almost any direction the eye recoils with hor ror. Chasms of enormous depth in the bowels of the mountain forming steeps of slaty shiver yawn upwards with frightful grin." It is an amusing sort of exercise to tramp along the edges of these grinning fissures. Skiddaw* like all other high stands, unless in settled weather, is travelled with the risk of mist, rain, and the extremes of heat and cold, with which the party is sometimes so suddenly and unexpectedly assailed as to set at nought 341 the prognostications of the most experienced guides. The heat of the morning, or the mid day sun on ascending, is frequently excessive, but On arriving at the top, if the wind is from the north the cold is equally in the extreme ; but this cold is in a great degree avoided by descending and sheltering from it a few yards on the opposite side of the summit. If the wind is from the west, what remains of Adam's observatory is excellently accommodating. Floating vapours are frequently the sources of supreme amusement ; sometimes encircling the party so gressly as to make invisible, objects not fifty yards from the eye ; when, perhaps, a few minutes before,others might have been observed, distant as many miles. In their playful humours these immense curtains in openings of every shape and feature, when contrasted with the azure of a beautiful distance appear as brown frames, through which, like scenes of enchant ment, momentary glimpses are caught of the far removed country, which lost, the anxious spectator may be as suddenly saluted from ano ther quarter, perhaps displaying a scene more grateful than the former, and with which th» capricious elements may either feast him, or as suddenly as the former veil it from his view. Thus by an ever shifting exhibition, the eye is kept in a perpetual play and the senses alter nately delighted, vexed, or agitated into ex- tacy. Open sunshine, or murky gloom, are the occasional results of this sort of vapour, and in the heat of one, or solemnity of the other, the traveller not unusually descends the mountain. 342 The writer has oftentimes viewed with plea sure the gradual resumption of form on return ing from these stupendous elevations. On this subject Mrs. Radcliffe has feelingly expressed herself as follows : " In this descent from Skiddaw it was inte resting to observe each mountain below gradu ally reassuming its dignity, the two lakes ex panding into spacious surfaces, the many little vallies that sloped upwards, from these margins, recovering their variegated tints of cultivation, the cattle again appearing in the meadows, and the wooded promontories changing, from smooth patches of shades into richly tufted summits. At about a mile from the top, a great difference was preceptible in the climate, which became comparatively warm, and the summer hum of bees was again heard among the pur ple-heath." SLIje &oto. The How is a good farm house placed on the western side of a solitary hill, that from the plains of Braithwaite rises gently into an agree able eminence, and thence falls abruptly to the river. The How is a mile and a half from Kes wick, of which one mile is on the Portinscale Road to Long Bridge ; the remaining half mile is in an amusing walk on the banks of the River Derwent. This hill and house are encircled by that ex- 313 tensive plain, which stretches from Derwent Water to Bassenthwaite Water, and is bounded on the north by Skiddaw, here seen flanked at each end by Dodd and Latrigg. Under Latrigg in a pretty point stands the church, bordered on each side by seats, and on its right by the town of Keswick. Derwent Water is obscured by the grounds at Derwent Hill and Portin scale. Seats, farms, and trees, which profuse in the vale and sprinkled on the mountains, are observed in onegrand circular sweep, commencing at Bas senthwaite and passing under Skiddaw by Danc ing Gate and Ormathwaite to the town of Kes wick, and thence under Swinside, Cat Bells, Bar row, Grisedale Pike, and Whinlatter by Portin scale, Braithwaite, and Thornthwaite to the lake of Bassenthwaite ; present in combination with the mountains a rare association of beauty and magnificence. From the How there is a road direct to Portinscale. CatmeD Pfee, ^raamtre, ana* beauty in the country : but it did not answer our expectation. The ground ¦ consisting of patches of fenced mea dow, adorned with the farm-houses, and clumps of trees, was beautifully tumbled about in many parts, but the whole was rather rich than pic turesque, and on this account, I suppose it hath obtained its celebrity." St. John's vale has not derived its celebrity as observed from the Kes wick- road to Penrith ; but as presented on the way from Ambleside: to Keswick. The latter is an exquisite scene — the former is pretty, but devoid of those characteristic features which so peculiarly- stamp the excellence of the other. New Bridge over the Greta is three miles and a half from Keswick. This bridge with the wooded banks of the river ; Rudding, the pro perty and residence of Mr. Greenhow ; and the Singular surfaces of Saddleback are a good subr ject for the pencil. Between the bridge and Threlkeld a road turns off to Bassenthwaite by Westcoe, and Under Skiddaw. At Threlkeld -Town Head, one to the string of houses called High Row. • vol. n. 3 A 378 Threlkeld is four miles from Keswick ; the village, and almost all the farms and cottages in the township irregular \ occasionally dilapidated, and graced by artist like trees, and having the rude projecting limbs of Saddleback as back grounds, are admirable in their presentations of the picturesque. The population of Threlkeld of whieh the viUage contains the principal part, is upwards of 250 inhabitants. There are several public houses in the place where those who wish to sketch or mount the steeps of Saddleback, may be well accommodated. The road to Amble side through St. John's vale leaves Threlkeld at the church. From Burns before spoken of in front for a few miles on the road towards Penrith, is in view the round hill caUed MeU Fell. The vales of Wanthwaite and St. John are on the right. A little ih advance from Threlkeld, on the mar gin of Gate GiU remnants of the devastation produced in the afternoon of the 12th of May 1811, by a tremendous fall of rain, are still visi ble in vast accumulations of stones washed from the mountain j which fall not only here but at Doddick and Scales, did prodigious mischief. Many acres of land were covered with rubbish, and the road for a time rendered impassable. A few artist like houses called Gate Gill stand on the side of the stream. Doddick is more than five mfles from Keswick, and Scales where the road to Heskett and Caldbeck turns on the left half a mile beyond Doddick. From Scales 379 it is down hill to the bridge over the river Glen- deramaken ; a mile beyond this bridge, and 7i from Keswick the road enters the common where on the left one leads to Heskett, Cald beck, Rosley Hill, and Carlisle. On rising the hill to the eighth mile stone is a fine back view over the vale of Threlkeld on the Newland's mountains reaching from Wanth waite Crags to Latrigg. Saddleback here and all the way to Penrith exhibiting his saddle like appearance, by the hollow connecting Linth- waite Pike and. Atkinson's Man. Catchedecam but not Helvellyn is descried in the line extend ing southward from the White Pike, a round hill east of Wanthwaite Crags. Spring Field 9| miles from Keswick is a new public house, opposite to which is a road by the^village of Ber- rier to the towns just mentioned. Ten miles and a half on the right is the carriage road, through Matterdale to Ulls Water, and Patterdale. On the left, 150 yards nearer Penrith, is a road to Greystock. From Penruddock 1 1 miles through the opening formed by the greater and the les ser Mell Fells, may be observed Helvellyn, From this neighbourhood is a grand retrospect on Saddleback. 1 If miles on the left a road turns off to Greystock, and one on the right to Hutton John, the ancient family seat of the Hud- dlestones. Hutton John is now inhabited by Andrew Huddlestone, Esq. To an old gothic tower, a striking feature in this mansion have been added, buildings evidently of more recent dates. From the house remotely beyond a splendid bank, and rich vale of wood, is seen S a 3 380 Cross Fell, arid in a direction south west, the high lands of Ulls Water, the two Mell Fells, and a portion of the Helvellyn range between them. Twelve miles and three-quarters is a road on the right to Dacre, and one eh the left to Grey stock. Here in a stately assemblage may be observed the church, castle, and village, of Greystock. Thirteen miles from Penrith, a partial view of the town of Penrith, and the Beacon. Fifteen miles from Keswick, on the right and left is the populous village of Stain- ton ; and half a mile beyond it, on the right, the road by Ulls Water to Ambleside from Pen rith. Here is. a most enchanting prospect of the vale ; and standing on the high banks of the river, a mile above . Eamont Bridge, that ancient castellated building, Yanwath Hall, bordered by the richest woods in nature ; but it is not only here, but from the very outlet of Ulls Water, all the way to the junction of the Eamont, with the Eden, that the trees are an unceasing fund of amusement to the traveUer. In distance in the direction of Yanwath is Cross Fell. South west appears the wooded summit of DunmalJet, which rises from the Eamont, oppo site to PowJey Bridge. Dumallet situate at the foot of UUs Water, is succeeded by Hallin Fell, and that mountain by Place Fell, whose highest part sweeps westward in an easy line to a fine rpund headed Pike. Beyond Place Fell in aerial sublimity rises St. Sunday Crag. On the left of 381 Place Fell, and through the long extended vale of Martindale, flanked on the left by Swarth Fell, and other*mountains at a great distance, peeps up the conical top of Hill Bell, in Kent- mere. Dunmallet obscures Ulls Water from the spectator. On the right of Dunmallet is Soul- by Fell, distanced by the lofty summit of Hel vellyn. In advance from this union of roads, is Red Hills, a farm-house ; and on the right a mile from Penrith, placed on the side of the Eamont, Skirsgill, the seat of Hugh Parkin's, Esq. Penrith situate in a district at once fruitful and beautiful has been before noticed, but the writer cannot leave that part of the country without some additional observations on the antiquities in its neighbourhood. ffigaalit from $enrifl) to C-amont 3SrtUo;e, : artinir'a &otmfc Cable, JWayoorousfj, 3$rons^am Sfeall, Countesses pillar, anU a&rouojam Castle. From Penrith it is a mile of pleasant road to Eamont. Bridge. On each side the bridge are houses chiefly on the Westmorland side of the river : together forming a considerable village. At the east end of the houses i§ tiie road by Pooley Bridge to Ulls Water. The commence* ment of this deviation is marked by, artfjur's ftounU Caole. Mr. Hutchinson whose opinions on this place coincide with those of Camden, and Pennant observes. " The trench by which this place is formed, is near ten paces wide ; the soil which has been thrown up outwardly, forming an out ward [banking like a theatre ; the approaches are ten paces wide, and the whole circle within the ditch, is one hundred and sixty paces in cir cumference. It seems most reasonable to de termine this was a tilting ground, its vicinity to Penrith makes it highly probable that such was its use ; either allowing that Penrith, in its highest antiquity, was a seat of royalty ; or in more modern times, the place of residence of the Duke of Gloucester ; whose magnificent manner of living allows us no doubt, such spec tacles and exhibitions would be used : for it was common in those days to celebrate grand festivals with a tournament." " At a little distance from the Round Table, and nearer to, Lowther Bridge, is another cir cular ditch, with a very low rampart, but of much larger dimensions, being seventy paces diameter, without any apertures or advances. This perhaps was used for pedestrian exercises," ^ap&oroug!)' " Half a mile from Arthur's Round Table, on the way to Pooley Bridge, on the right, is Mayborough : it consists of an eminence which rises gradually from the plain, for about one hundred and forty paces, forming the lower section or base of a regular cone : the ascent is every-where covevered with wood, and the re mains of timber trees of great size appear on every side. The plate represents an interior view of part of the circle, and of the column, which stands near to the centre of the circus." *c The summit of the hill is fenced round, save only an opening: or entrance, twelve paces in width, to the east ; the fence is singular, be ing composed of an immense quantity of loose pebble stones and flints, which, perhaps, were gathered from the adjoining rivers. No kind of mortar appears to have been used in this work, the stones lie uncemented, piled up to a ridge, near twenty paces wide at the base, and in height about twelve feet from the interior plain. Here and there time has scattered a few trees and shrubs over the pebbles, but in other places they are loose and marked both on the inside and outside face of the fence. The space with in consists of a fine plain of meadow ground, exactly circular, one hundred paces diameter ; inclining a little to the westward, from the cen tre, a large column of unhewn stone is standing 384 erect, (placed with the smaller end in the earth,) an ash tree grows at the bottom of the stone ; it is twenty two feet and some inches in circum ference near its middle, and is eleven feet and upwards in height. The traditional account given of this place, is in no wise to be credited. That it was a Roman theatrp, where men were exposed to combat, with wild beasts ; and that such stones were placed for the refuge and re spite of the miserable subject in his unhappy conflict." Mr. Pennant considers Maybrough to have been " a supreme consistory of druidical ad ministration." Mr. Hutchinson reasons thus : " We presumed to declare our opinion of the Salkeld monument, that it was the place of dru idical judicature ; that there the assembled dele gates met in congress, and that the criminals suffered execution there. We conceive that Maybrough was appropriated solely to religious rites, and that here the pupils receive their do cuments in the mysteries of that religion. Its similitude with that in Anglesea confirms this opinion ; and that Maybrough was the place (for the northern regions) of the supreme con sistory in religious matters : it was calculated for study and contemplation ; it was shut in by a solemn grove, and, perhaps, in its original state, was fenced about with a lower and out ward wall, to set bounds to the vulgar." 335 Brouojam $all. Lowther Bridge over the river Lowther is a little beyond Arthur's Round Table. Passing from the bridge on the Appleby road in front, is presented Brougham Hall, which standing on a stately bank, and half obscured by trees, is an excellent object. This place has been caUed by some, the Windsor of the north. Brougham Hall, the seat of Henry Brougham, Esq. M. P. is one mile and a half ori the old road from Penrith to Appleby. The Hall is skirted on the south-west, and north by a fer tile plain, extending to the river Lowther, and in a southward direction rising from that river, the woods of Lowther, with Clifton Hall. In front, south-west, are presented the sublime mountains bounding Ulls Water, and in the intermediate space, the rich agricultral, but finely wooded borders of Lowther bridge, Yanr wath Hall, and Maybrough, with its centre stone, all here observed in an agreeable associa tion. Westward aspires Saddleback. North ward in a pretty point of view, are seen, the village and bridge of Eamont, and " the delight ful grounds at Carleton Hall," with the church, castle, and town of Penrith beyond them, and still further off the Carlisle road, the race ground, and the beacon. Nature has done much in the disposition of the surrounding lands, and art has been at work, and though judiciously, perhaps, VOL. II. 3 B with an eye not fully comprehending or attend ing generally to the value of the situation. The ancestors of Mr. Brougham were lords of the manor of Brougham, upwards of 600 years ago, but as early as the reign of Edward III. the manor was alienated to Robert de Vetripont, from the time of whose daughter Idonea, it was divided into three parts, and remained so divid ed about 350 years ; but reunited by the pur chase of James Bird, Esq. in the year 1676, one-third of the manor having been in the fam ily 238 years. During the above space of 350 years, one-third of the manor was the property of the family of Brougham. Brougham Hall when inhabited by the Birds, was called Bird's Nest. John Brougham, Esq. grandfather of the present Henry Brougham, Esq. purchased Bird's Nest from the grand-children of the above James Bird, Esq. Across the road from the HaU is a chapel, erected in 1659, at the cost of the Countess of Pembroke, for the accommodation of the then adjoining village. The Countesses Pillar stands fifty yards be yond the third mile-stone, by the ancient road to Appleby. " This pillar was erected, Anno Domini 1656, by the Right Honourable Ann, Countess Dow ager of Pembroke, and daugher and sole heiress of the Right Honourable George, Earl of Cum berland, for a memorial of her last parting in this place, with her good and pious mother, the 387 Right Honourable Margaret, Countess Dowa ger of Cumberland, the 2nd of April 1616, in memory, whereof, she also left an annuity of four pounds to be distributed to the poor of the parish of Brougham, every second day of April for ever, upon the stone table here, hard by Laus Deo." Over the Eamont, 200 yards north of Brough- ham castle, was erected about five years ago, a handsome bridge, as the means of shortening the way from Penrith to Appleby. The new road over the bridge is little more than half the length of tiie old road by Brougham Hall, and their union is between Brougham Castle, and the Pillar. 33roujjfjam Castle* " That extensive ruin, situated on the banks of the river Emont, graces the landscape view ed from Carleton Hall." " The entranceis by a machicolated gate- way and tower, a short covered way leads to an in ner gate-way, with iron grated gates : the dun geon tower, or keep, rises in the midst of the area, a stately edifice of excellent masonry ; all the inner apartments are destroyed, except one vault, which we conceive was the dernier retreat for the family in time of assault ; the roof of this vault is formed of groined arches, supported by an octagon pillar in the centre ; the whole is elegantly finished with chisseled 8 a 3 3S8 work, and ornamented with sculpture, such as was the taste of the Norman architects,' viz. faces, and distorted figures. To this apart ment you descend by several steps, and as there are no appertures to admit the light, several rings are fixed in the roof for lamps ; the out- Works are in such a ruinous state that it is not possible to trace what offices they consisted of ; to the southwest angle of the outward wall is a bulwark, or strong tower, all the under cham bers of which are also destroyed, the out ward gate-Way is vaulted with common archesi having a port-cullis ; the arms of Vaux (Cheg- Uy, Or, and Gules) still remain on the tower. The inner gate-way is also vaulted, but is formed of groined arches, with a port-cullis ; by the difference of the architecture, it seems as if the outward gate-way and tower had been added to the work, they appear of a more mo dern date. To the north the river Eamont washes the facia of the castle wall. " The most ancient owner of Brougham Cas tle that history points out. was John de Vetri- pout ; but the instruments wherein his name is mentioned call it only the house of Brougham, so that probably it was not at that time castel lated. We have certain evidence that the first Roger Lord Clifford, built many parts of this castle ; above the inner gate-way is placed this inscription : — " This made Roger," which some would have (says Bishop Nicholson's M. S. p. 240) to be understood not so much of his rais ing the castle, as of the castle raising him, in allusion to his great advancement of fortune by 389 lu's marriage, this castle being part of his wife's inheritance." In the 4th of jHenry IV. this for tress was completely ruined by the Scots, but how long it remained so is not known, pro bably it was not speedily repaired ; for the first mention of its being habitable is at the distance of two centuries, when Francis, Earl of Cumber land, on the 6th, 7th and 8th of August 1617, entertained king James I. when last he returned from Scotland. It is supposed this castle was afterwards injured by fire, for in 1651, it was put in condition to receive the Countess of Pembroke, the owner. Since the time of that virtuous lady it has gradually gone to decay. Brougham Castle is a fine subject either for near or distant portraiture. It is in excellent composition with the ash trees as viewed from the eastern side of the Eamont. At every step in a progress over the river, the castle with its accompaniments is singularly pleasing, particularly at the Cumberland end of the bridge. From other points on the verge of the rapid stream, or the richly wooded lands which swell upon its banks, it is an object of great attraction. The road from the bridge to Penrith, in re trospect, occasionally displays the castle, and in aerial sublimity the mountains of Haws Water, and Ulls Water, over the profusely ornamented borders of the Eamont, and the Lowther. But this side view is in places obscured by the plea sure grounds at Qarleton Hall. 390 " Carleton Hall, the seat of Thomas Wallace, Esq. commands in front an extensive lawn, which is intersected by the river Eamont, while the Ldwther winds round its extremity ; the banks rising from the house are rapid and ab rupt, and cloathed with hanging woods, through these woods are walks presenting views of the distant country, which are greatly varied and universally beautiful." 3&oaU from $enrtilj to Carlisle. High Heskett is half way between Penrith and Carlisle, being nine miles from each. On the progress from Penrith the prospects are pleasant and extensive. Heskett is a pretty large village ; on its east side is Tarn Wadling, or Tarn Wadalyne, a lake covering about one hundred acres of land. On the crown of a lofty eminence on the north-east of the lake, are the remains of a very strong building, 233 feet by 147. " The foundations still appear faced with large stones of ashler work ; in some places eight feet in thickness. At what time this for tress was erected, or to whom it belonged, we find few traces in ancient authors." " It is called by the neighbouring inhabitants Castle Hewin." Castle ' Hewin is a most commanding emi nence. In the direction of Penrith is seen the beacon, with a distance terminated by the heights of Cross Fell, Dufton and Stainmore. On the south-west beyond a rich country includ- 391 ing Graystock, arise the grand mountains of Ulls Water, and on their right the two Mell Fells, Helvellyn, Saddleback, and over Carrock, and the High Pike, Skiddaw. On the north Solway Frith, Carlisle, and Brampton, having a back ground of Scotch mountains, and the hills of Nichol Forest. From Heskett to Carlisle over a fertile coun try, are seen on the left, the high lands, rising from Heskett New Market, and Caldbeck. Car rock and High Pike are the principal. Carlisle. " The traveller approaching from the south, has the best view of the city, seated on a fine eminence, gradually emerging from an exten sive plain of rich cultivated land. The waters of the Frith are seen on the one hand, with the adjacent levels ; the back ground of the land scape is beautifully variegated by the irregular swells of the whole Scotch promontory, extend ing towards the Irish sea. The walls strength ened with an arrangement of buttresses at irreg ular distances, lies upon one angle to the view ; in part concealing the houses of the city, and boldly overtopped by the square tower of the castle, and the august and solemn structure of the cathedral. This view of Carlisle is the more striking, as there is no adjacent eminence ; from which cause the city looks more majestic, as it crowns so beautiful a plain.*' 392 " This city is waUed round, the fortifications towards Scotland appearing the most modern ; they7 are formed of better squared stones than several other parts of the works. The east and south sides are supported by a multitude of but tresses, which we presume, have been built up occasionally, to strengthen the decaying parts of the wall. It is watered by three fine rivers, the Eden on the north, the Peterill on the east, and Caude on the west. There are three gates to the city which, from their different aspects, are called the English, Irish, and Scotch Gates. On the approach from Penrith, on the south, you enter the English Gates ; on the approach from Wigton, on the south-west, is the Irish Gate, and the Scotch Gate, to the north opens upon the bridges. The walls are embrazurfed, but without any earth-work. The English Gate, is guarded by a very strong machicolated gate; flanked by circular towers of great strength ; the guns mounted therein in several tiers; would effectually sweep every approach." Carlisle is said to have been built by a British potentate, called Luel. That it flourished in the time of the Romans, is abundantly evident from their writings, and illustrated by the anti quities found there. It was called by the Ro mans Luguballia. " As to the present name, Carlisle, the original of this is plain enough, from the British caer or city; and Lual; Luel, Lugubail, Leil, or Luil, according to the sev eral appellations, ancient or modern, importing as much as the town or city7 of Luel." 393 The English gateway with its towels and other works, is commonly ealled the . citadel, and was erected by Hiesuy VIII. Thq Castle consists of various worksy but the dongoji or great tower more properly de&exves: the title of Citadel* Munich being square aftd lofty, and having walls, of vast strength and thickness, was prior to the use of cannon impenetrable to assailants* After times, have added a half moon battery, and a large platform mounted likewise with cannon. The tqp of the tower be* ing embrasured and lined with turf, and planted with cannon, is excellently calculated for de fence. Within the great tower is a well of vast depth ; this well is said to be of Roman work ; and was always of benefit to the besieged, as that supply of water eeuld not be cut off by ths beseigers,. In the outer castle is a fine grasi plat, a garden, and a gaverno/s house. It has been the opinion of several judicious visitants, that the river Eden has shifted its course since the time of the Romans, and that it formerly passed nearer the castle, for it would he injurious to the polity of that great people to suppose that they would carry their works across a broad and rapid river, otherwise than in a straight line. Doubtless the Romans found this a place of some importance, but it was then rather a recess after the toUs of warfare, than the chief of strong hplds. Stanwix in its vicin ity being the station of course upon the waU. " We have no authority to determine what was the size or form of this place in distant an- VOL. II. 3 C 394 tiquity." The history from the retreat of the Romans,' to the1 arrival and* domination of the Saxons, is involved in the general darkness of the timesi. During this barbarous vacuum, it may be reasonably supposed, that -the furious irruptions of the northern hordes, would render Carlisle Untenable to the Britains. About the beginning, of the seventh century, Egfrid, King of Northumberland, repaired and fortified Car lisle; and it then became an appendage to the see of Landesfarn, on ivhich it was dependant, tiU the;year 1130, when Henry I. constituted it a separate Bishoprick. From the reign of Egfrid to the coming of the Danes, we may: presume an improvement in the power and importance of this place; but this advancement served only to aggrandize its woe, for the Danes with all the fury attend ing savage ignorance razed it to the ground, and put the numerous inhabitants to the sword. Thus desolated it became a forest of oaks, and for two hundred years depopulated except by a few wretched Irish, who sheltered themselves among the ruins. In the time of the conqueror the city was par tially rebuilt by Walter, a Norman priest, who likewise began a monastery, afterwards finished and endowed by Henry I. William Rufus im pressed with the military importance of the situation completely restored it, and defended the inhabitants by a circumvallation and a strong fortress ; the general architecture of which is evidently of that period: probably the fortifi- 305 cations were erected by the Flemings who were presently removed by the king, to make place for a colony of husbandmen from south Britain, to whom is attributed the first tillage of the fer tile plains of Carlisle. Thus by calling toge ther many persons to certain employments, and a consequent increase of population,- the crafty William strengthened his northern frontier. On the. demise , of the learned and accom plished Henry I. the usurper Stephen, gave the city and its neighbouring lands to Davidi king of Scotland, of which having gained possession, he; claimed them as a right derived from his ancestors to whom they had been given by the Saxon kings. David created his son Henry, Earl of Carlisle, and this Earl during the life of Stephen, founded the Abbey of Holm Cultram. On the death of David, Henry his son, and Ste phen ; Henry II. took Carlisle from the Scotts, and granted to the inhabitants, liberties by a charter, which charter, was afterwards destroyed by fire. The second Earl of Carlisle mentioned in history, is Andrew de Harcla, created and sub sequently degraded by Edward II. From that time the title was never revived till King Charles II. created as a reward for his instrumentality in procuring the restoration ; Charles Howard (son of Sir WiUiam Howard) Earl of Carlisle, from whom the present Earl of Carlisle is immediately descended. 306 In the reign of King John, Alexander be sieged and entered Carlisle ; but to him the castle was impregnable.-— In 1292 an accidental fire consumed part of the city, and a consider* able portion of the cathedral, with all the re- cords.«-In 1296 aftet wasting the adjoining lands, the Scots assaulted Carlisle, but there they Were warmly received both by men and women ; by the latter with stones and boiling Water; and the resistance was so brave that the assailants abandoned the seige, and retreated to their own couiitfyv-^-In the reign of Edward II. Brus, king of Scotland* devestated to a great extent, the west of Cumberland; and With the Warlike engines of the times> laid seige to Car* lisle, but he left it with precipitation, and hotly pursued i two of his leaders fell into the hands of the English.-^The Scots in the time of Ed ward III. likewise burnt the suburbs, but be- se'iged the city unsuccessfully.*- In 1345 Pen. rith and Carlisle were burnt by the Scots, under ihe command of Sir William Douglas. Part of the Scotch forces detached for forageing Were cut off, and Sir Alexander Strachan, their chief tain, run through the body by Sit Robert Ogle. In this rencounter Bishop Kirkby signalized himself; for being dismounted and in danger of becoming a prisoner, he fought with uncom mon bravery, recovered his hotse, and by his valour and animating exhortations, raUied his party and led it on to victory^— In the reign of Hehry VIII. a considerable body of men, on returning from a fruitless attack on Carlisle, were intercepted by the Duke of Norfolk, who made prisoners their commanders, and with 397 others hung them on the city walls. — In 1644 this place submitted to Leslie the parliamentary general, but it was after a long seige, and the greatest distress of the garrison who when their bread was exhausted, were compelled by neces sity to eat horses, dogs, and rats.— -Carlisle has not been visited by any force hostile to its in ternal peace, since 1745, then it was assailed by the rebels, and surrendered to the chevalier. The garrison worn out by fatigue, sickness, and perpetual alarms; deserted their stations and day by day fled over the walls, till the number of men was reduced to the officers and seventy invalids. In this dilemma the corporation hung out the white flag ; though in opposition to the bpinion and protest of Colonel Durand. In December his Royal Highness William, Duke of Cumberland appeared before the place, when after a few days bombardment the rebels dis played a flag of truce, but the terms of surren der were merely that their lives should be spared till the kings pleasure was known. The Cathedral of Carlisle which is dedicated to St. Mary, is strongly marked with the pre vailing architecture of the different periods of its erection It is a venerable edifice, and when entire, must have been peculiarly interesting. It how consists of the chancel Pr east limb of the cross ; or the Cross aisle or trancept, with the tower : the greatest part of the west limb Was dismembered in 1644, and the stones used for the formation of guard-houses, and batteries. The circular arches and massive round columns which remain of the west limb, are of the heaviest 398 order of Saxon architecture, and as being of a school prior to the coining of the Normans, was probably a portion of the building, erected by St. Cuthberf. The west, end from the cross aisle is said to have extended 135 feet in length, of which, 43 feet of the remaining part has been blocked up with a wall discordantly supported by immense buttresses ; a striking monument of disgrace to the dilapidators, and discredit able to the feelings and taste of the deans and archdeaconry, who have succeeded those semi- barbarian times. The choir is 137 feet in length, and with the side aisles, 71 in breadth; the cross aisle or trancept is 28 feet broad, so that the length of the church, when entire, was ex actly 300 feet. The tower is 123 feet high, and has a ring of eight bells, and being considerably higher than the other buildings of the city, produces an excellent effect when viewed at a distance. The choir is a fine specimen of gothic, its columns ate light and beautiful, and the stalls garnished with tabernacle work, give the whole in pleasing but solemn association. The organ is a powerful and sweet toned instru ment. From the ravages of time, from fire^ and from the ruthless hands of barbarous marau ders, the cathedral suffered greatly ; but suc coured by the piety and munificence of Kings, Bishops, and others, it has arisen with encreased splendour. In remote and in modern ages the interior has been very generally repaired and improved ; the new carving accurately in sup ply of the mutilated old, is sharp and masterly. The east window is 48 feet in height, and 30 m breadth. In the aisles are legendary paintings 399 of St. Anthony, St. Cuthbert, and St; Agustine. The west end of the building from the tran- cept to the wall is now used as a place of divine worship* by the parishioners of St.: Mary. The ecclesiastical establishment of the Cathe dral,' consists of the bishop, dean, chancellor, and archdeacon ; four prebendaries, eight minor cannons, four lay clerks, six choristers, and six almsmen. The city of Carlisle is divided into two pa rishes, St. Mary and St. Cuthbert. The church of the latter becoming ruinous, was plainly but neatly rebuilt on the site of the ancient structure in 1778. Besides the churches Of the national religion, there are three meeting houses for protestant dissenters, one for quakers, one for methodists, one for baptists, and a Roman Catholic Chapel. In 1817 a new, neat and commodious methodists chapel was erected. The Grammar School was founded by Bishop Smith, and is conducted by the Rev. S. Hartley and assistants. Dr. Bells central school lately built, is greatly patronized, it will hold 1000 scholars. The number of boys and girls is generally more than 500 ; aU taught gratis. The Lancastarian School which is on an ex- 400 tensive scale, has since its establishment in the' city uniformly flourished. There are two boarding schools in Carlisle, ably7 assisted by masters in drawing, music, french,and dancing. The architectural drawings by Mr. Carlyle are very superior performances. A charity school, cloaths and educates the daughters of poor freemen. The Bible and Missionary Societies, insti tuted a few years ago, are attended by able speakers, and much encouraged by subscriptions. The clergy are exemplary for their piety, and for their zeal, in the cause of religion ; and the places of public worship are crowded by all ranks of people. The spirit of literary taste is kept alive by the eminent ecclesiastics of the cathedral ; and by other learned and liberal minded men. The public library, and that belonging to the cathedral greatly add to the mental gratifica tions of the inhabitants. Near to the English Gate are houses for the accommodation of decayed freemen or their widows. Carlisle was first represented in parliament in 2Sd. Edward I. The present members are John Christian Curwen, Esq. and Sir James Graham, Bart, of Kirkstall. 401 The magistracy is vested in the mayor and senior alderman, who are careful to guard the civil rights of the citizens. The court houses erected a few years since on the site of the ancient citadel, are circular buildings in the gothic taste, with appending rooms for juries, witnesses, &c These build ings cost 25,000 pounds : here the asizes are held annually. The entrance to Carlisle from Penrith, is at Botchergate to the court houses, whence it pas ses up English-street to the market place ; from the market place are two streets, one leading through Castle- street by the cathedral to the castle, the other by way of Scotch-street and Richergate to the Bridge. Carlisle enjoys many privileges and immuni ties confered on it at various times by charters, of which one is a market every Wednesday and Saturday, well supplied with butchers meat, grain, fowls, and in great profusion by the finest fish. -Jn, 1817 the east wall pf the city was re moved and the ground converted into a com modious horse-market. In the same year the bed of a branch of the River Eden was filled tip, and rendered a spacious cattle-market. The two statute days for hiring servants are at Whit suntide and Martinmas, and the fairs occupy a considerable portion of the intermediate time, the principal are in August and September. VOL. II. 3 D 402 The town Hall, Moot Hall, and Council Chamber, are conspicuously placed in the cen tre of the city. A Dispensary so useful in populous towns was instituted in 1782. This benevolent pro ject for the alleviation of miserable indigence is liberally supported. The Guild Hall in which the free trades hold their meetings, is an antiquated building. The races take place in September : they are numerously and genteeUy attended. A small Theatre erected a few years since is open in the spring of every year. A new bridge of five eliptical arches, has recently been constructed over the Eden at the expence of 50,OQO pounds. The castle is kept in constant and complete repair, and in an armoury lately built is depos ited 10,000 stand of arms. The rooms are still shewn in which Mary Queen of Scotland was confined. In 1817 a new wall now much used as a promenade by the inhabitants, was raised round the castle, it is called " the Devonshire walk" in compliment to the Duke of Devon shire. The views from this wall are exquisite. Carlisle is encircled by a beautiful flat coun try profusely planted with elegant houses, from 403 which are in view the mountains of Cumber land, Northumberland, and Scotland. These habitations are partly the seats of the ancient gentry of the country, the rest of such as have enriched themselves by trade. , Before the union of the crowns Carlisle was exposed to all the miseries of border warfare, then the adjoining states regarded each other with a cordial hatred ; but the union of the kingdoms has happily contributed towards the annihilation of invidious distinctions. A century ago Carlisle had no foreign com merce, its weekly markets, fairs, and statute days for hiring servants, drew together great numbers of the inhabitants of the north of En gland, and the south of Scotland. At the annual fairs the business of the whole year was settled, general conveyances being not only rare, but ill conducted. The assizes and public diversions consolidated the affections of the neighbouring country, who at other seasons assembled cheifly in detached companies. Party spirit was then unknown, an unsuspecting inter course extended itself through the Whole city ; which with a veneration for old customs, kept them up in an harmony and festivity, demon strative of the warmth of unalloyed friendship. The end of hostility seems to have been the beginning of trade ; for soon after the year 1745, a body of Hamburgh merchants est ablish- a wooUen manufactory in Carlisle, which flour- * 3 d 3 404 ished surprisingly, during the few years it was managed by the elder Dewilcher, but at his death, owing to the weak conduct of his bro ther, it fell to sudden ruin. The principals thus bankrupted, numerous labourers were for a time greatly distressed, but their miseries were in some degree alleviated by the cheap ness of provisions and by the woollens werewith they had learned to apparel themselves. A small linen work with a traffic in whips, and fish-hooks, were after the above disaster the only commerce ; till the year 1750, when a manufactory of course linen was introduced, which was soon followed by another of woollen, but on a less extended scale than the former. At this period commenced an amendment in the roads ; and a consequent advance in the means of existance, for the articles of butter and bacon, began to be sent in large quantities to London. Scotch cattle received in great bodies, were partly sold in the city, and the rest passed southward. These improvements in avenues to the place, were succeeded by an increase in the linen manufactories, which speedily associated with the cotton-trade, and a population accu mulated by the influx of many Scotch and Irish weavers, with their families. The antiquated features of the city, were gradually renovated by the appearance of new houses, for the situa tion of Carlisle was discovered to be well cal culated to facilitate the business of the loom in aU its various ramifications. In the year 1761, a company from Newcastle, established extensive printing works, these were 405 quickly succeeded by others ; and thence up to the present day the manufactories of Carlisle, (exceptwhen subjected to the inconveniences oc casioned by wars) have progressively improved. After the peace of 1814, the labouring classes were involved in the general distresses of the times ; but out of which they are now happily relieved. The two Banks are the Carlisle Bank, and the Carlisle and Cumberland Bank. Two weekly papers are published in Carlisle, the Journal was circulated in 1798 ; the Pa triot in 1815. Carlisle in the year 1763, contained 4158 in habitants, in 1780, 6299, and in 1796, 8156; but since that time the increase has been very considerable ; the population being now from 12 to 14 thousand. There are several Friendly Societies in Car lisle ; some are for the benefit of men, others, for women ; but the credit and funds of both are greatly augmented by honourary members. The principal Inns, are the Coffee House, Crown and Mitre, the Bush and the Kings Arms ; — The Pack Horse, the Dukes Head, and the Spread Eagle, are likewise respectable inns ; these and others are good travellers houses. Seven mail coaches leave Carlisle daily. South ward to London, Liverpool, and Manchester. 406 North, Edinburgh and Glasgow. East, New castle, and West, Port Patrick. The general appearance of the inhabitants bespeaks industry, and opulence. Many indi viduals have acquired affluent fortunes in the course of a few years, by trade. One hundred years ago Carlisle was singu larly antiquated, and being constructed Chiefly of wood, clay, and laths, " bespoke the pover ty of the inhabitants." But the gables which fronted the streets, with their gothic doors in the centre — their porches projecting two or three yards into the street ; all richly orna mented in the taste of the times of their erec tion, must have been objects peculiarly adapted to the uses of the pencil. Modern Carlisle in place of the comfortless picturesque, has substituted an elegance highly accommodating to the refinement of its present inhabitants. The cathedra], and some of the old buildings belonging to it, are desirable painters studies ; either as wholes or taken in detatched parts. The great window of the chancel is most admi rable ; and only wants releiving from the houses, too closely erected on the east. The castle, added to these other specimens of days of yore, and united with such nearer materials, as may be observed from many distant points, compose a series of very interesting pictures. m § y 407 Brampton. The road from. Carlisle to Newcastle, is through !the ancient town of Brampton, which is 9 : miles from Carlisle : it enters Northum berland:, 15 miles from Carlisle. Twelve miles from Carlisle, is Naworth Cas tle, standing half a mile north of the Newcastle road, and half a mile north of the castle, are the remains of Lanercost Priory. The road from Carlisle to Lanercost leaves that to New castle at Brampton, whence it is two miles and a half by the public house at New Bridge to the Priory. Eanerrost $riorg. This was a monastery of the order of Augus tine, founded by Robert de Vallebus, in 1116. It is dedicated to St. Mary, and is situate in St. Mary's Holm, a charming narrow vale, watered by the river Irthing, whose banks and screening heights above them are elegantly graced with wood. This precious antiquity is of large dimension. It is in the form of a cross. The cemetry was extensive, but of which scarcely a fourth is now used as a burying ground ; and except the space between the grand entrance porch on the 408 west end of the Priory, the rest is converted into gardens. The west end has been neatly fitted up as a parish church, and is capable of containing a great number of persons. Its in terior is at once grand, light, and elegant. The east end of the building is a ruin, but the taste ful gothic of the pointed windows, and the di lapidated walls, from which spring ivy, and ash trees in a splendid luxuriance present an union of the picturesque rarely to be observed. This fine remain is most happily exhibited from the north-east, and were the tower ten yards higher it would be a sublime apex to many rich and valuable combinations. From some stands the repaired part of the church may be associated with the broken walls, and in few places better than under those mournful yews which over shadow the tombs of departed parishioners. From other points south of the yew trees par tially appear on the left neglected buildings of a more modern date ; these greatly aid those compositions in which the chancel end is a prin cipal feature. The chilling interior of the chan cel while furnishing labour to the artist, is calcu lated to inspire in his breast, a ruminating melan choly. At the dissolution this place was promised by Henry VIII. to Sir. Thomas Dacre, but he did not become possessed of it till the following reign, when it was given to him by Edward VI. Out of the offices of the Priory, Sir Thomas Dacre built himself a mansion, partly now in ruins, but the perfect portion an admirable mon- 409 ument of the architecture of the times of the erection ; is used as the parsonage house. On the south it is joined by the refectory (now a receptacle for horses,) and on the west by two farm-houses. The ruined part of Sir Thomas Dacre's house, is that before- mentioned, as as sisting in composing views of the chancel. Over the Irthing, at the south-west) end of the ground, is a bridge, and near to it a public- house, conveniently situate for those who wish to make drawings of this venerable remnant of antiquity. The Pict, or Roman wall, runs half a mile north of the Abbey. Katoortf) Castle. Naworth Castle j aspiring from the Biver Ir thing, is placed on a fine eminence, and sur rounded by trees of a dignified growth, which from many stands assist in giving it additional majesty7. This Castle was formerly the baronial house of the Lords of GUsland, but now the occasional residence of the Earl of Carlisle ; who belongs likewise to the Priory of Lanercost, and the lands appending to both places. These exten sive domains came to a branch of the house of Howard, by the marriage of Lord WUliam Howard, third son of the Duke of Norfolk, with Elizabeth, sister of George, last Lord vol. n. 3 E 410 Dacre, who in the year 1555, was killed while an infant, by falling from a wooden horse. " The approach is striking ; the front is strengthened by a curtain wall, and a gate-way embrazured, and the corners of the chief struc ture on this side, by lofty square towers. The whole house is a specimen of ancient incon venience, of magnificence, and littleness, the rooms numerous, accessible by sixteen stair cases, with most frequent and sundry ascents and descents into the bargain " The solemn grandeur of ancient times is suddenly7 displayed on entering the Hall, an appartment 78 feet in length, and of proportionate breadth and height. The castle is quadrangular and encloses an area of considerable dimension. It was with a despotic and inflexible severity, that Lord William Howard, contributed more to the subjugation of that lawless race of men, called moss troopers, than any individual before his time. His body guard was 140 men. Be sides the chapel on the ground, Lord William had an oratory or chapel, for his private devo tions, adjoining his study, on the top of the cas tle, these and his bed-room were connected with the other apartments, by a winding stair case so narrow as to admit only one person at a time, and secured by a succession of plated doors, fastened with immense locks, and bolts of iron. Indeed the whole mansion is full of precautionary impediments. " The old win dows are narrow and grated, and the doors almost wholly cased with iron, moving on pon- 411 derous hinges, and with massive bolts, which make a harsh and horrid clang, that echoes in the winding passages." Lord William, though a stern chieftain, was a polite scholar, and his library is a valuable specimen of the learning and taste of the age in which he lived. Either near or distant, Naworth Castle claims the attention of a painter. (gilslanH &pa. Six miles from Naworth Castle, and Laner cost Priory, is GUsland Spa, to which the roads north and south are on the delightful banks of the river Irthing — the road from the priory is in places on the top of the Roman wall, which it crosses at the famous station Burdoswald. The Spa water issues at the foot of a high rock rising from the Irthing, which for a mile below, and many miles above, divides the counties of Cumberland and Northumberland. Two large houses, called Shaws] and New Orchard, have been built for the accommodation of the numer ous well bred strangers, who during the sum mer season visit GUsland for the benefit of its waters. The lodging houses are at a consider able distance from the Spa, but connected with it by well-made, and highly.amusing foot paths, cut through the woods, and presenting in their progress the craggy precipices rising from the river. Near the Spa is a Chinese bridge *ipan- 3 e 3 412 ning the Irthing, and from its Northumberland side steeply over a high hill is the way to Thirl- wall and Blenkinsop castles. " The spring is strongly impregnated with sulphur, but ex tremely agreeable to the palate : its effects in cutaneous disorders are powerfully good. At a small distance on the moor is a chalebeate spring, and another four miles distant highly charged with allum and vitriol." At the Spa the stream winds impetuously through a deep and narrow dell bordered by rocks and grace fully overhung by trees ; and the mazy wind ings and wooded borders of the river on its pas sage to Lanercost Priory, offer to the lover or the artist a banquet of many exquisite changes. a&tbers Camont, antr eJUeit, from Penrith to Carlisle. Three miles and a half below Brougham Cas tle, the Eamont is joined by the Eden. Half way between the castle, and this confluence, are those curious excavations called the Giants Caves. These caves are opposite St. Ninians, vulgar ly denominated Nine Churches, and on the Cumberland side of the Eamont. They are excavated from the middle of a rock, which at the river's brink rises perpendicularly, and are only to be approached by passing along the sparing ridges of the cliffs, and holding by the shrubs. " One is but a narrow recess hewn in the cliffs for a day shelter or seat ; the other is 413 chiefly natural and capacious enough to hold a great number of people." The mouth of the aperture was anciently defended by iron gates ; and the caves were in all likelihood used as places of safety in times of danger. With other similar places, thesehave their tales of wonder — " One is of Isir a giant who lived here in for mer times, and like Caucus of old, seized men and cattle, and threw them into the den to de vour them." Four miles from Penrith, ^ standing on the banks of the Eden, is the village of Edenhall, and on its south, the seat of Sir Philip Mus- grave, Bart. Sir Philip is descended from a Cumberland family of high antiquity. The mansion house is grand and spacious, and from the stile of architecture appears to have been built about 150 years — the grounds slope finely to the river, and are richly and majesti cally ornamented with groves of trees. The church is a singular and beautiful fabric, but much older than the Hall ; it is surrounded by aged evergreens, and is an object peculiarly in teresting to that painter, whose delight is in picturesque antiquities. The road from Edenhall, having the river on the right, leads to great Salkeld, amd Lazon- by; but a mile. from Edenhall is a deviation by a bridge over the Eden to Langwathby, a number of houses, whence it is six miles to Kirkoswald by that extraordinary labour of an tiquity called 414 Itono; JMen; anfo her ©augftters. A number of Druidical stones erected on the very summit of a high hill, half way between the above villages. These stones are situate in the parish of Addingham, and a little north of little Salkeld, between which the road passes. If hopeful trees are ever a nuisance they are here; and in the shape of some young ashes planted within the circle by the side of a wall, running at a short distance from fifteen or six teen of these stones. Were the land the pro perty of an antiquarian, he would probably re move the wall, and the trees, and conduct a sunk fence around his precious court of justice, and on the outside of that, fence place oaks, which would in time give it a truly venerable appearance. Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cumber land, thus describes this ancient monument :- — " It forms nearly an exact circle of three hun dred and fifty paces in circumference of massy stones, most of which remain standing upright. These are sixty-seven in number, of various qualities and species, not hewn nor touched with a tool ; and their form shews they7 were gathered from the surface of the earth : some are of blue and grey limestone, some flint ; but most of them are granites — many of those that are standing measure from twelve to fifteen feet in girt, and ten feet in height :— -others 415 much less in size. At the southern side of this circle, about the distance of 17 paces from its nearest part, is an upright column, naturally of a square form, of red freestone, with which the country abounds, and of which there is a fine quarry, known to the Romans, at Crawdundale, not many miles distant fiom this monument. This stone is placed with one of its angles to wards the circle ; is near fifteen feet in girt, and eighteen feet high ; each angle of its square an swering to a cardinal point of the compass. In that part of the circle, which is most antiguous to the column, four large stones form a square figure, as if they had supported some table stone, or had enclosed a space more particularly kept holy than the rest. Towards the east, west, and north two stones of great magnitude are placed in the circle, at a greater distance from each other than those in other parts, as if intended especially for entrances into this mystic round. What creates great astonishment to the specta tor is, that the whole face of the adjacent coun try does not shew any stones of the like magni tude or quality ; and how such immense bodies could be moved in an age when little of the mechanical powers (except the force of the lever) were known in this country, is not to be con ceived." Concerning its origin and uses he en ters into a laborious investigation of theopinions of various writers, and concludes as follows : " Upon the whole after a full consideration and comparison of all that has now been quoted, to gether with all that we have elsewhere read, or have seen, we are free to give it as our opinion, though with all becoming deference 416 to the opinions of the learned authors, whose works we have mentioned, that Long Meg and her daughters the greatest and most extraor dinary piece of antiquity, we believe, in the world, of its kind, was solely adapted to offices of law ; a court of judicature ; and place of public assembly for the dispensing of justice. Stonehenge and Aubury monuments are of dif ferent natures, derived from different periods of time, and originally7 appropriated to different uses. These druidical remains, we conceive, were after the Hebrew mode, rude and unhewn masses of stone, placed in circular order, as an emblem of the eternal existance of the Deity. 'And if thou wilt make me an altar of stone, thou shalt not build it of hewn stone, for, if thou lift up thy tool upon it thou hast polluted it.' Exodus 20, verse 25th. As we incline to adopt the rule of the Hebrews for these erec tions, we would farther observe, that in the passage of Jordan they raised their monuments in number, according to the tribes, each tribe a column. We conceive the number of stones in the circle before us, denotes the number of delegates, who, from their several districts and tribes were members of the convention held in this place, a druid to each pillar ; distinguish ing at the same time how many tribes were amenable to this court of judicature. The druids had other consecrated places for their religious duties, high places,, the summits of lofty eminences, shaded with groves of oaks ; surrounded with several fences, encinctures re sembling those of Sinai, of divine description. In these courts of justice, they began every 417 every public act with the previous solemnities of prayer, sacrifice lustration, and other religi ous rites. If there really ever has been a hol low or bason on the top of the chief column, called Meg,«perhaps incense was burnt therein, or the sacred fire was exhibited, whilst the sacri fice was preparing, or the criminals tried before the people. Such was tiie power of the druids^ that they retained the whole legislative authori ty. The principle, that prevailed all their doc trines was this, that all law was from heaven ; and that as a divine thing it solely was the office of the priests to dispense justice. The prince, or sovereign, presided only in war, and at the head of armies ; a principle and practice allud ed to by the poet in the following lines : «' Thpu art a king-, or sovereign o'er frail men I am a druid, servant of the gods ; Such service is above such sovereignty." Where by the bye, however, we may be per mitted to observe, that, in using the term gods, this learned and elegant writer, is certainly in accurate. It no where appears, that the druids at least in the earlier periods of their history, were Polytheists." iurSostoatt^ Kirkoswald is a neat compact and ancient market town ; it contains between six and seven hundred inhabitants. The church is dedicated to St. Oswald. The steeple stands apart from the church, on a round hill, with a fountain of VOL. II. 3 F 418 water at its foot. In the town are a school and a dissenting meeting house. The market is on Thursday, the fair the Thursday before Whit sunday. Kirkoswald is planted On an aspiring ground half a mile east of the Eden ; in a coun try whose easy undulating lands are singularly favourable to the exhibition of the rich woods that sport upon their surfaces. The seat house of Timothy Featherstonhaugh, Esq. is placed on the site of an ancient college on passing from the town to Lazonby. On an eminence above Kirkoswald is the castle ; little of which is now remaining. In old times it must have been a noble edifice. " This great great cas tle of Kirkoswald was one of the fairest fabrics that eyes ever looked upon. The hall I have have seen one hundred yards long. This cas tle was the ancient place of the Lord Multon marrying the Lord Vaux's heir, Lord of Naward and GUsland." But Kirkoswald is less famous for its buildings than as being only two miles south of Nunnery. NunUeiy is perhaps the most beautiful place of its kind in England. The grounds have been already compared with those on the borders of Stock Gill, which runs through Ambleside. The scenery at nunnery is of two sorts open and contracted. The open part is that upon the 4^den ; but the narrow which has some resem blance to Stock Gill, extends from the Eden on the banks of the river Croglin, to the state- 419 ly mansion of Mrs. Bamber, erected on the site of a convent of Benedictine nuns, founded in the reign of William Rufus. Mrs. Bamber was sister to the late Christopher Aglionby, Esq. and, to the distinguished taste of this lady and gentleman, the grounds at Nunnery are indebted for their superlative beauty. The rivers are embanked highly with rocks of freer Stone,, and of this tractable material the im provers have taken every possible advantage in the conducting of their roads, so as to exhibit to the best advantage, the varied beauties aris ing from a succession of still and falling waters, perpendicular, over-hanging, and retiring rocks, impending oaks, ashes, and other trees, whose picturesque branches alternately enliven, and involve in darkness the foot paths,' and the troubled streams that fret along their borders. The lands at Staffold Hall, the seat of Rich ard Lothian Ross, Esq. extend from the house to the river Croglin, and the charms of that se cluded bottom on its southern side if properly appreciated, and appropriately improved might vie with the elegancies displayed from its nor thern side. armatljmatte Mvia$t, From Kirkoswald by Nunnery it is five miles to Armathwaite a small village, standing on each side the river Eden, and connected by a good stone bridge of four arches. On the wes tern side of the river and south of the bridge is 420 Afmathwaite Castle, the seat of H. Milbourne, Esq. a modern building erected on the site of an old one. The walk on the margin of the river by the castle to the mill is very pleasing : a wier of two hundred yards in length, and twenty feet high, stretches diagonally across the river : huge rocks are the foundation of this wier, which is formed into a complete salmon lock by a frame work of timber, that extends from shore to shore, and produces a most amus ing cascade,, or series of cascades, which sport and bound in every direction, and whose action and noise are in busy contrast to the stillness of the extensive pool above it. This little lake is bordered on the east by bold rocks, in places separated by deep chinks, whence and from the tops of the rocks wildly and gracefully spring trees, which reflected in the tranquil wa ters have a truly fascinating appearance. Look ing backward, the mill is presented in the pret tiest point of view, and the rocky and wooded side grounds on the right rising grandly, may be balanced by trees upon the left. On the eastern side of the river is a small house, the occasional residence of John De Whelpdale, Esq. who has conducted a beautiful terrace of half a mile in length along the hanging cliffs. A quarter of a mile below the village in a grand view backward, is seen the bridge partially obscured by woods aspiring from the river, and sportively distributed, right, and left into agree able middle grounds, to which by the assistance of the road, is added, a bold foreground. Sad dleback and other distant mountains close the scene. Armathwaite is twolniles east of High Heskett. 421 From Armathwaite on the eastern side of the Eden, it is seven miles to Corby ; and this would be a most recreative course if rich in wood, but the supply of that beautifying mate rial is within the given space more scanty than elsewhere on the Eden. Corhj? Castle. Corby Castle, the seat of Henry Howard, Esq. Stands on a high rock between the river Eden and the village of Corby; it is a mansion of various dates, but occupying the site on which stood the ancient castle. The grounds at Corby for their extent and beauty, have obtained a high and deserved celeb rity. They are of two kinds. Having the cas tle on the right, the traveller is led from the village down a steep bank to a broad walk, stretching along the side of the river 700 yards. This walk is terminated on the south by a tem ple of the age of Louis and William ; and on the north by the grottos scooped out of the rocks ascending from the water's brink. These rocks which extend to the castle are crowned with majestic trees. Both castle and trees are finely exhibited from the temple or pleasure house. " Towers and battlements it sees" Bosomed bijfh in tufted trce.s.J' 422 This broad and long extended walk is a mag nificent specimen of the taste of the times, when nature was regulated and managed with an ex actness as mathematical as the manners of those times were punctilious and formal : but like the stately manners of the old school, the, old gar dening if well executed, and confirmed by age, has attached to it a peculiar grandeur and so lemnity ; and a walk through a vista of ancient trees generates at every step a new amuse ment ; for every fresh tree displays a newness of form — and every distinct stand either in pros pect or retrospect a newness in the avenue ; and formality is only7 observable in the straight- ness of the line of travel. This splendid elong ation of perspective vegetation is little distur bed by the sublime specimens of untutored nature, or of nature aided by art with which the walk is surrounded. From the several parts of this broad walk, lateral branches might be so artfully cut to the Eden, as with the aid of near foreground trees, and plants, would instantaniously surprise by compositions at once new and intricately beau tiful. From the broad walk another has been con ducted to the river, where its rolling waters arrested by a rugged channel are agitated into numerous cascades. Lofty rocks wildly and beautifully spread over with trees embank the opposite side. On one of these rocks appears the exterior of St. Constantine's Cell or Wether- all safeguard, anciently used as a hermits resi- 423 dence, or place of retreat from danger in times of war, or during such times for the lodge ment of plate, or other valuables- belonging to the neighbouring priory. The safeguard con sists of three rooms excavated out of the rock forty feet above the level of the Eden. In front is a gallery built on the ledge of the rock eight feet below the flooring of the cells. The gallery is twenty six feet in front, but the three cells increasing in breadth are altogether thirty feet, and the depth from the gallery wall about the same ; — the gallery wall was former ly covered with lead from its front to the cells, and the whole when in repair must have been dry and comfortable. The approach is on a steep, narrow, and perilous descent, and the entrance door at its end seven feet above it ; so that the secluded inhabitants would of course gain their goal by a ladder afterwards to be drawn up by them for security. Pursuing the walk just mentioned, enormous oak trees in all the splendour of foreshortening put forth their aged bodies, and stagheaded branches from the fissures of stupendous crags, while their less matured but luxuriant neigh bours, overhanging darken the passages beneath. Raven Clint, a high rock, partially displayed through the wood with which its borders are graced is a capital painters study. Other mix ed combinations are full of courteous invitation, and this path on the river's verge so replete with visual and mental recreation, is not less instructive and amusing on its return to the castle on the higher grounds, where the land- 424 scape artist will find subjects peculiarly accom modating themselves to his portfolio ; all the deduction of situation, nature, art, time, and that liberal forbearance and fine feeling possess ed by the present and past proprietors, who have thereby exhibited a grandeur and stateli- ness in the trunks, the ramifications, and the varied foliage of the trees, in other places gen erally to be looked for in vain : of these the following are noticed by Mr. Houseman in his apposite account of Corby. " We are struck with the appearance of two gigantic firs of won derful elegance, standing close together on the left, and on the opposite side we observe the ancient king of the forest rearing his time worn crest near the top of the bank. This is an oak measuring 56 feet in sircumference at one foot above the ground, and who has probably kept his court here these 300 years." The grottos at the north end of the long walk are thus de scribed. " In the bases of these rocks are several spacious cells, or grottos, hewn out of the solid rock. Some are dry7 and pleasant apartments, having views over the river, which washes the feet of the rock, and jutting ledges stretching forward over the entrances, so as to form natural canopies. — In another part of the rock there are two pretty large rooms, which from water constantly trickling down the front and sinking into the stone, are kept continually damp. These apartments afford a fine echo, and music has an admirable effect therein, the sounds being reverberated from rock to rock in an astonishing manner. — A little beyond the top ©f this rock there is a reservoir of water, which 435 can by opening a sluice, be brought through an arched conduit, and precipitated down the front of the rock in a fine cascade, falling over the entrance of the caves. This amusement, though latterly discontinued, was formerly some times practised to the great surprise of visitors, who felt themselves suddenly doomed to a tem porary confinement in the grotto, by means not at all suspected." " Opposite to Corby, the ruins of Wetheral Priory, of which a gate- way and tower only remain, are seen standing halfway up the hil!. This priory was founded by Ranulph De Mes chines, in the year 1088, for a Prior and eight Benedictine Monks, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Gonstanfine." Mr. Hutchinson says. " What was left of this edifice by the zealots of Henry 8th's days was -demolished, except the gate-way or lodge, with a fine eliptical arch {which is now con verted into a hay loft) by the Dean and Chap ter of Carlisle, who built a prebendal house in •Carlisle with the materials. When this was in agitation, Mr. Howard, the late beautifier of Corby, offered a sufficient compensation if they would suffer the building to stand, but his pro position was rejected." The part of this Priory adjoining the road has in it nothing striking but its formality. It is tasteless as the ruthless hands which severed from it the adjoining stones. It, however, as sists in union with neighbouring trees to form VOL. II. 3 G 426 a foreground, which with the road, the churchy and distant country, is a pleasing composition. Wetheral safeguard, before described, is higher up the river, and still higher the gothic summer-house, erected by the Misses Waugh, of Carlisle. This building, the Priory, and Church at Wetheral are animating objects from the grounds at Corby. From Corby, through Wetheral to Carlisle, it is five miles over a pleasant flat country. From Corby by Warwick Hall, the seat of Henry Bonner Warwick, Esq. (two miles down the Eden) it is six miles to Carlisle. " A good road of four miles leads from hence to Carlisle, through a fine level country. The vale of Eden now opens considerably, and be comes fruitful and pleasant ; but its distant banks are more tame ; and, though not much wooded, fine hedgerows beautify the prospect. After passing Warwick Hall, the Eden makes a fine sweep round Mr. Warwick's grounds, visits Little Corby, and passes near Newby, Crosby, Linstock, and Rickerby to Carlisle, through one of the finest vales in the country. Having noticed the scenery on the roads from Keswick to Penrith, from Penrith to Carlisle, and from Carlisle on the Newcastle road to1 its entering Northumberland, and likewise the cele brated beauties on the Eden ; the writer will next proceed to give some account of the roads on each hand branching out of that from Kes wick to Penrith. 427 Carriage roafc from itestoult jjj> WW* 8Hater to the torn at $atterfcale. The commencement of this excursion is on the way to Penrith. Ten miles and a half from Keswick it turns on the right at right angles. On that deviation is in view on the south-west, Wester Mell Fell, a round hill, of considerable elevation, and commanding a most extensive prospect of the surrounding flats and high lands. Such as wish to ascend Mell Fell may leave this road at the end of a mile, and descend it, having in front some houses, called Brownrigg, two miles and a half in advance from the turnpike toad. From the top of Mell Fell in the direction of Matterdale End, Matterdale Chapel, and Dock- ray, there is a pretty peep at Ulls Water about Silvery Point, with the lofty barriers of Mar- tindale, Patterdale, Glenridden, and those of Ambleside and Wythburn, seen over them. Of these, Helvellyn has Catchedecam on its left, and on the right White Pike, the latter hiding Wanthwaite Crags. Between White Pike and Lonscale Fell, all the sublime mountains reach ing from Causey Pike on Derwent Water nearly ^to Barf on Bassenthwaite, with the intermediate flat country of St. John's and Threlkeld. On the right of Lonscale Fell, is Saddleback, here wholly obscuring Skiddaw ; on the east of Sad dleback appear Souter Fell, Bowscale F/ell and 3 g S 428 Carrock, with the cultivated country extending by Greystock to Penrith, and the extreme dis tance- beyond Carlisle, from the south of Scot land by the Cbeviott Hills to Cross Fell, and the south of Cumberland. The lesser Mell Fell, Ruddings, and Gowbarrow Fell, obscure the lower end of Ulls Water. This elegant mount is called the We3ter Mell Fell, to dis tinguish it from the eastern, or lesser Mell Fell, which is near the foot of Ulls Water. It is the Wester Mell Fell that is so evident from the higher grounds of Newlands, Braithwaite, and Thornthwaite, and a great part of the road from Keswick to Penrith. Brownrigg, thirteen miles from Keswick, and two miles and a half on the deviating road, stands on a sloping bank on the left between two rivulets. Matterdale End a small hamlet more than a mile in advance, Matterdale Cha pel on the left, and Thornythwaite two farms are half way from Brownrigg to Dockray. Dock- ray 15| miles from Keswick, consists of nine houses, of these some are neat and pleasant, others picturesque. Through Dockray runs the river issuing from Dowthwaite Head, and in Gowbarrow Park, supplying with water the beautiful cascade called Ara Force. Half a mile from Dockray, after having passed the park gate in an almost instantaneous burst, is presented one of the finest scenes on Ulls Wa ter ; and that which is thus described by Mr. Gilpin. " Amongst all the visions of this en chanting country we had seen nothing so beau tifully sublime, so elegantly picturesque as this." 429 Here are observed the three islands, House Holm, Wall Holm, and Cherry Holm ; on the left in lines of the highest degree of elegance rise Silvery Point and Place Fell ; on the right, and scarcely less interestingly the steeps of Glenridden commencing with Stybarrow Crag, beyond which, in a series of delightful bays the lake is observed to its head, and amongst the skirting enclosures Patterdale Hall, the seat of John Mounsey, Esq. whence most pleasantly ascending, is seen Hall Bank, till obscured by Glenridden Dodd. The mountains of Patter dale, Grisedale, Hartshope, and Ambleside in vast sublimity close this admirable assemblage ; of these the principal are Scandale Fell and St. Sunday Crag. On this descent, or from the park grounds westward, the scenes in composi tion with the rich foregrounds of trees on every hand offered as accompaniments may be splen didly varied* Art judiciously7 applied would wonderfully aid the glories of the northern, and the western banks of Ulls Water. The road from Penrith to Patterdale and Ambleside, is joined by that now travelled 17 miles from Kes wick at the foot of the hill, whence it is 4 miles to the Inn at Patterdale. Patterdale by this road being 21 miles from Keswick. $orse roaK from &esa)trfe to Mis Water. This approach to Ulls Water leaves the turn pike road from Penrith, to Keswick, two miles from the latter place a little beyond Naddle Bridge on the first deviation to the right. On rising this road Burns is a pleasing middle- 430 ground to Saddleback. Descending ; Helvel lyn and the vale of St. John's at its. foot, are by degrees charmingly developed and consider ably altered in combination with the nearer ob jects, on the way from the houses on the road caUed Shundraw to Wanthwaite Mill. Near the mill over the river Bure or Greta is abridge, and from it down the river there is a pretty wood scene closed by Saddleback. Wanth waite Crags with Hill Top is a fine indication, Skiddaw is shewn in new features, the first man presenting a fine rounded top. From the mill, and bridge, it is only a short way to the road from Threlkeld to Ambleside, and this pursued a few hundred yards will present a turning to the common on the left, and Hill Top the ancient seat of the Gasgarth's on the right. Advancing, Hill Top in retrospect has for a back ground Strickett Dodd a very spirited union of materials. St. John's chapel is seen at the north end of Strickett Dodd. At the end of Wanthwaite Crags from the highest part of the road, there is a most splendid exhibition of population intermixed with fertility, beauty, and sublimity. Of the former beginning at St. John's Chapel, and ending with the village of Scales, including in St. John's the Yew Tree, Shundraw, and Burns ; in Castlerigg, the Nest, and Goose Well — in Wanthwaite, various plea sant habitations adjoining Threlkeld, which with its church appears in a delightful point of view ; Saddleback towering over it in a grand style shews all its broken ridges in an exquisite series of foreshortenings. Above St. John's is Stric kett Dodd, and the ridge extending thence to Burns, beyond which is Castlerigg, with High 431 Seat and Bleaberry Fell, and over the straight line between Bleaberry Fell and Pott Crag, Wallow Crag, the Higher Cat-bells, Dale Head, Hindsgarth, Robinson, and Red Pike. Beyond the Nest, Rolling End, Causey Pike, Aikin Knott, 111 Crags, and Grasmire. From the Nest to Burns, the distance is composed of Bar row, Grisedale Pike, Latrigg, Whinlatter, and Lord's Seat. Dodd peeps up partially hid by the north end of Latrigg, but their grandsire Skiddaw, though an old friend presents here an entire new face, the first, third, and sixth points appearing rounder than from Derwent Water, are shewn over the huge front of Lonscale Fell, whose craggy extremity falling from Littledale Pike, is somewhat obscured by the western side of Saddleback, called High Bow Fell. At the eastern end of that interesting mountain Sad dleback, are Scales Fell, and Souter Fell, and reaching frorfi Threlkeld under those elevations appear Gate Gill, Doddick, and Scales. Occu pying the space from Souter Fell to Mell Fell, are the lands of Berrier and Greystoqk. On ward as the road rises more is caught of the north end of Skiddaw by the comparative de pression of Lonscale Fell. Rounding the hill ; proudly swelling from its base appears the White Pike. Hence the way in many windings made of necessity to avoid unfavourable ground, has little else than barren hills in prospect. About seven miles from Keswick at an angle of the road, having in retrospect a portion of that already travelled, are seen Dodd, and on its right Lonscale Fell and Skiddaw, but these beT come gradually lost behind Saddleback, which 432 Crag, at the foot of Leaths Water ; an inter esting assemblage. Oh the road is a house, called Green, and something beyond it, twelve miles from Am bleside, a picturesque building called Legberth- waite Mill or Green Mill, enriched by a fore ground of well shaped stones, through which, after having retired from their labours at the mill, the waters are seen dashing, and at the best point presenting pretty faUs, where fretting, foaming, and liquifying into beauty the rugged channel, they are again useful in assisting the artist to procure his daily bread. The base of this rude fabric appearing above the horizontal line ; its- sides are finely contrasted by the stones ascending on the right. St. John's Rock, or Green Crag of a vast perpendicular height, broad in its parts and enlivened by trees, plants, and mosses, assists in forming a most desirable back ground, and the whole is a superb combi nation. This is 29 of the large etchings. Proceeding the valley is within a short space so contracted as to afford little more than room for the road, on the left of which is the river Greta, with Naddle Fell rising abruptly from it. Rigg End, Long Bank, and Wren Crag, are here prominent features on Naddle Fell. In retro spect with these Crags on the right, and St. John's Rock on the left, the Great How, and beyond it Wythburn Head assisted by the road, the river, and its broken banks is no despicable picture ; but not equal to those having Sad dleback in distance, which observed through. 433 the craggy cheeks on each side aspiring from the road is a noble object :— Advancing; the screen on the left by degrees is lost, but from the river and its borders that mountain is every where a stately finish to the near grounds. Low Bridge by mistake called Soskeld Bridge in the small etchings an erection of wood grac ed by trees, and a stony bedded river is not one of the least pleasing. Soskeld Bridge is lower down the Greta, and Soskeld a farm-house above it is on .the left. From Legberthwaite Mill to Soskeld Bridge it is a mile ;, but half way a road turns on the right to Fornsjde, some artist-like houses planted under the hill, whence by Beck Thorns, where stands an ash in ruins, a foot road extends towards, and joins the pub-- lic road half a mile beyond Soskeld bridge at Brame Crag, so called from a towering rock on the right. Skiddaw and the intermediate grounds are here in fine arrangement. Rough Hows, Moss Crag, and Strickett Dodd are seen on the left, the latter at the top of a succession of fortifica- " tion-like projections. On the way from Brame Crag to Lowthwaite, rise upon the right in pre? cipitous grandeur Wanthwaite Crags, where is exhibited Simon Gill a black, deep, and frightful recess, through which the waters in wet weather are hurried with an appalling fury. Lowthwaite the seat of Christopher Williamson, Esq. is a respectable modern house standing on an emi nence ; — from tke grounds adjacent the vales of Wanthwaite, St. John and Threlkeld are charmingly displayed. Beyond Lowthwaite on the right is Hill Top, and the horse road from Keswick to Patterdale, and scarcely a quarter 434 of a mile in advance, the road on the left by Wanthwaite Mill to Keswick. Saddleback in a series of smooth, triangular, sharp, furrowed, and rocky parts is not elsewhere more valuably varied, and presented than on the road from Lowthwaite to Threlkeld; the lower lands agree ably planted with good farm-houses standing on each side of the road are chearful appendages to it. Of these, first on the left is Mirehouse, with Skiddaw and Lonscale Fell in distance. Two on the right are called Birkett Banks, Mire is on the left. Setna Banning on the right, is at the edge of the hill rising to Threlkeld. tfoot toai? to 0t Soljn's cfjapel anU ^trtefeett 30ohU A mile and a half from Keswick on the Am bleside road on the left, is a white gate open ing to the Higher Nest, one hundred yards on ward is another to the Lower Nest, and not much beyond it a stile that leads through fields, which in dry weather is a pleasant foot path to St. John's. On each side the Bridge may be seen beyond agreeable middle grounds, the three high mountains, Skiddaw, Helvellyn, and Sad dleback. At the foot of the hill on the left beautified by trees, with Skelthwaite Crag above it, is Sykes, a farm-house. Bend, a rocky hill lying between Raven Crag and Shoulthwaite Moss appears over the valley, and in a long line on its right Castlerigg, on whose margin are Iron Crags, Gate Crag, Dodd, and Pott Crag. The ascent from Sykes to St. John's is steep ; 435 but the road at the top is flat to the chapel at its eastern end, where there is a commanding view of Wanthwaite. ^trtrfeett ©ofcU Short of the chapel, by a winding progress, may be reached the summit of Strickett Dodd. This stand, considering its moderate degree of elevation, has one of the most amusing birdV eye ranges in the country. From the specta tor's footing bold intersections of crags are suc ceeded by St. John's Rock, beyond which, in aspiring majesty, Helvellyn rears his storm- beaten head, whence one grand sweeping line is extended to the valley, and thence to the top of Raven Crag. Through this craggy portal, in sweet serenity, are discovered the upper and the lower lakes of Wythburn. Raven Crag is distanced by Fisher Crag, Bull Crag, and Steel Fell, above whose tops a line extending from Helm Crag reaches by the Carrs to Wythburn Head. Raven Crag is here partially7 obscured by the Bend, and the highest part of Wythburn Head by the tops of both — on the right of the Bend, in playful lines, are Iron Crags, Gate Crag, and Dodd, crowned by the High Seat and Bleaberry Fell. From Dodd to Pott Crag one long straight line of Castlerigg Fell acts as a middle-ground t6 an interesting range of remote mountains. These are Wallow Crag Pike on the eastern side of Derwent Water, and on its western side 436 Maiden Moor, the Cat Bells, Causey Pike, Uterside, Barrow, and Swinside. Aspiring from Newlands, Braithwaite, Buttermere, and Crum mock Water ; Dale Head, Hindsgarth, Robin son, Red Pike, Starling Dodd, Whiteless Pike, Wandup, Sail, 111 Crags, Grasmire, Grisedale Pike, Hobcarten Crag, and Lady Side Pike. On the north-west, in materials not new, but newly and charmingly arranged, are presented first, in elegantly sweeping lines, the rocky side of Naddle, in high contrast to the lengthened line of Castlerigg ; then appears the smiling vale of Crosthwaite, with a portion of Bassen thwaite at its end ; embanked on the right by Dodd, and on the left by Grisedale Pike, Whin latter, Lords Seat, Barf, and Withop Woods. Over a rugged knoll the higher and the lower Nest have beyond them Crosthwaite Church and other buildings, with which that delightful level is ornamented. Castlerigg, still even top ped, has beyond it, in the segment of a large circle, Latrigg ; then Lonscale Fell, and Skid daw ; the latter rising to a fine apex at the first man. The dreariness of Castlerigg is relieved by the white house called Goose Well, and Latrigg by Greta Bank. Saddleback, with its triangular and sharp-edged faces, next claims attention. It is observed as a back-ground to two strings of houses ; the first composed of Burns, Rudding, and the village of Threlkeld, the second of High Row, and Gate Gill. Scales Fell and Souter Fell, verging from Sad dleback, are tastefully intersected by the easy descent on the north of Wanthwaite Crags, neared by the enclosures, farms, aiid cottages., 437 commencing at Threlkeld, and continued by Hill Top and Lowthwaite to Fornside, where population on the south is cut off by Naddle Fell. Wanthwaite Crags, here highly impres sive, have on the left Lowthwaite, and on the right the deeply furrowed Simon Gill. On the ridge above Wanthwaite Crags, in a series of round heads, appear Calva Pike, Great Dodd, Watson Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd, Styx, White side, and, lastly, Helvellyn. Having descended from Strickett Dodd to St« John's Chapel, near the chapel is a grammar- school, taught by the Rev. Edward Wilson. From the chapel are several roads to Keswick, one leaving the house called Yew Tree on the right, and joining the horse road to Patterdale from Keswick at Shundraw. A second to Threl keld by Wanthwaite Mill, passes Yew Tree on the left ;. this is a charming declivity for Threlkeld, accommodated by pleasing nearer grounds, has the huge Saddleback rising beyond it. On the way from St. John's Chapel to Wanthwaite Mill, a road on the right turns off through a delight ful bottom to Brighouse ; this road ascends from Brighouse to St. John's Chapel. From St. John's Chapel a road under Strickett Dodd to Ambleside, by Smeathwaite Bridge or Legberthwaite Mill, is replete with amusement. Ricka is a striking object from many parts of the vale and a knoll, sprinkled with trees, east of Ricka, commands a good view towards Saddle back, with the river meandering towards Threl keld. Southward towers Helvellyn, having the 438 flat fields of Fornside and St. John's Rock in middle distance — this is a grand assemblage. Soskeld Bridge is on the left of the road. Sos keld, between them, is a picturesque building, and to which the craggy steeps Rough Hows, and Moss Crag rising from it is an appropriate finish. Lower Bridge End, shaded by trees, stands near Low Bridge. Rocks above the house present exquisite prospects up and down the valley. Onward is a ford over the Greta to Legberthwaite Mill, but the foot road is on a path so very narrow, and the fall to the river on the left so steep, as to impart to the traveller the dangers of immersion. As the path winds round the end of the hill called Rigg End, Bridge End and the wooded knoll by which it is sheltered, pleasingly salute the eye. — Raven Crag is seen beyond Smea- thwaite Bridge, where the present road joins that from Ambleside to Keswick. dr.rruroton from jttjestoicfe ruunrj J^fetttoato anfc ^aisoleoacfe Up &ljrel&ei&, ^esfcet* $eto--Jiflarfeet, Caltifcecfe, ano 35assen« t&toatte abater. The commencement is on the Penrith road to Scales, five miles and three quarters from Keswick, where on the left the road turns off through Mun Grisedale to Hesket-New-Market and Caldbeck. Half a mile beyond Scales, an angle of the road detaches from the retrospec tive gazings of the spectator, the Keswick 139 mountains seen in vast extent from Wanth waite Crags to Scales Fell ; this is a sublime scene. Seven miles from Keswick, two good farm-houses called Souter Fell, and some others beyond them all stand at the foot of the hill,, and on the Side of a dale prettily ornamented with trees and washed by the river Glendera- maken. The mill at Mun Grisedale and other build ings neighbouring the chapel being well shaped and coloured, and graced by trees, are pleasing to a painters eye, and more valuable as being under lofty hiUs, on every hand presenting ex cellent back grounds. At the mill the road crosses the river Glenderamaken, and is there joined by another road, which unites with that to Penrith between seven and eight miles from Keswick. This river partly supplied from Scales Tarn, by its weight of water must have pursued a long course of mountain journey ; and is full of fair promise to the artist. The half globed Mell Fell is a companion all the way from Scales to Grisedale, and .from Grisedale to Bowscale ; but in this latter part the lesser MeU Fell is add ed. Near this chapel a circuitous road on the right turns off by Scales to Hesket-New-Market or Carlisle. Bowscale ten miles from Keswick, and Mossdale, on the Opposite side of the river not connected likeGrisedale abound richly in the picturesque ; the river separating these villages runs from Bowscale Tarn a little lake two miles up the dale. These villages being engroved in trees and placed at the feet of rocky mountains* are not only to the artist most alluring, objects , vol. 11. 3 i 440 but recreative to the lover of unrestrained na ture. Bowscale Fell rises above Bowscale, and Carrock over Mossdale. At Mossdale the road enters a common and skirts the foot of Carrock, here exhibiting a front of savage wddness. Enormous stones tumbled from the mountain's side are in profusion on the left of the road ; probably those anciently on its right were re moved to build farm-houses, cottages, and for the erection of waUs as boundaries to determi- able property. Carrock is 2290 feet above the level of the sea. On its summit are many heaps of stones, these are generally of a large size, Some at least four hundred weight, and occupying an ehpti- cal area, whose transverse diameter within the surrounding piles of stones is 252 yards; its con jugate diameter 122 yards, including nearly five acres. At -each end has been planted a man of stones — these heaps are evidently of modena fabrication. *' These erections are supposed to be orna ments to the mountain, as well' as to the cir cumjacent country, and are tailed men, few mountains being without them." After a copious description of this singular place Mr. Hutchinson adds, " And now having given the best account in our power of this hitherto undeScribed, though certainly not unin teresting vestage of great antiquity, our hardest task yet remains $ that of ascertaining when and for what purpose a work of such immense la* 441 hour was undertaken. Before we attempt to say whait it is it may be necessary topirave what it is not." I i , " As vegetation is and always was impossible; within this enclosure it could never be intended for pasturage, nor designed or made use of as a protection for cattle, during the inouirsions of Moss* troopers- — its wall of circumvallation was unnecessarily large; and insufficient as a fence to. answer such a pulrppse, > [and a place into which cattle must have been driven with great difficulty, still less was it intended as a place of retreat for men in cases of in^tsion; there being no watery nor could a well be dug ; " .the fence ; for a fortification is likewise too low, and the situation nob only so bleak as to render the c-oldj intolerable, but so high as to be of difficult respiration to persons, accustomed to live in val lies. "¦ In short the plan and execution iof the Work are: evidentiy of an age prior to those of which we have any regular history j and must be believed to be coeval at least with the.'Crojtn-i leehs and the Cairns to be found aU over the kingdom; if not also with long Meg and Stone- henge." In proof of which follows a long Ais-? sertation with copious extracts illustrative and in corroberation of the opinions advanced. Under Carrock the road passes a mile, and afterwards crosses an impetuous stream issuing from the mountains, and supplying with water a smelting mill on the right. The common ends at Calbreak whence the road rises to Wed lock hill, from the top of which over the coun- 3 i 3 442 try passed between Grisedale Chapel is again ' observed the two Mell Fells, having beyond, them the high lands of Ulls Water ahd Hawrs Water. On the right this view is skreened by Carrock and Bowscale Fells; Looking 'east ward a well wooded and highly cultivated coun try is terminated at a considerable distance by that chain of elevations, 'amongst which Cross Fell stands' the unrivalled! isovereign. - Fromthis place it. is down a pleasant road called Pasture Lane graoed, by pretty; buildings -to: Hesket- r New-Market. ... ; J... Those who may iwish -to have a more distant and .distinct view of Carrock- may learfe" the neatest way to Hesket at Mun Grisedale Cha- pel Scales is enriched with • trees, to which. Saddleback, rSDiiter Fell; iarad Carrock, make ?an: excellent distance. Carrock with' its rugged top "rises- to a fine apex 'at 'its, southern' man. Hence the road is to Mill' House and from that place on the side of the river Calder toHeskeU: ': , •• '¦' <>: : /,:.-, • -m,r •- ¦ -- .,-.., ^esfcet-Keto-iflarfeet. ; • /, . - :....¦ -.-j " Hesket-New-Market is uncommonly well situate, as Caldbeck also : is, for any mandac- tures requiring large supplies of water, wood; and fuel. It has fairs for horses and black cat tle, which, begin on the first1 Friday in May, and M3 are continued every fortnight , .afterwards till Whitsuntide ; and a market every Friday." Heskett- New- Market is about 16 miles from Keswick, by Way of , the High Side in Bassenth waite, but scarcely so much through Threlkeld. It is an uncommon neat and compact little town, one mile from Caldbeck, to which a road at the end of the town turns out of the Cockermouth road, at Hesket Hall, a very curious old building. Caltroetfc. - 1 Caldbeck , very much unlike Hesket, .is a scattered, but picturesque vUlage, two houses rarely adjoining. Part of the ohurch is of great antiquity. The ..river :Caldbeck runs by» the ehurch yard. The parsonage house which is elegant and. spacious was, built on the site of the old one about thirty years ago by the Rev. Pyn- son Wilmot, L. L. B.— *-it is supposed by the editors of the history of Cumberland to stand on; the ground occupied by the hospital ancient ly erected: in commiseration of travellers .over this .parish " which long, after the conquest was forest and waste," and :the. resort of freebooters and dangerous outlaws. "About half a mile from, the church there is in the bed .of the river, and in a singularly wild and rpm^ntic situation, a very /striking, itatural curiosity, called the Howk : a word* i which, as a substantive, is perhaps uncommon, but which, as a verb, is the common, term in the north 444 for scooping out earth, or any thing else; and digging' a hole. - It'is a water fall, in a narrow gill, or dell, at the bottom of which runs the Caldew, over* which a natural bridge of lime stone rock «s formed. Through the, narrow arches ofithis .bridgev'the stream rushes with infinite impetuosity:; and dashing along over other- rocks, it excites, that fiiae sound of falling water which art as so often attempted, almost in vain, to imitate,, and then empties. itself into a large bason or pool, which seems to boil in various whirling eddies covered with a white foam. A few feet^on xajejside of this bason, there is a curious excavation of a rock called the Fairy Kettle* It is; about six yards in diam eter, and scooped out ^almost exactly in the shape of a huge chaldron}? and as smooth in its inside as if it had been polished by the.statuary .¦ Smaller ones lie near it j ;aUoflwhich have long borne 'appellations similar to the Fairy's Kettle. And here too 'another cascade is formed be- tweefi> iwo perpendicular rocks about eighteen or twenty yards in- -height^ a- little, i to. theirighfc of which there isa cavern, about' twenty-jyards long, - called the > Fairyf s Kirk, j In this cavern the- roaring of the cataract is heard wathoujt be- ing'seen^ .which has- a new, and notiinple&sant effect. This place is, as might be suspected^ the scene of sundry superstitious notions and 6tories, ahd which, as fanciful tales, characteris- tical of other -times, are not uninteresting : but all that is very probable, in them; is,, that these were the retreats land, hiding plaees. of those dating foresters, by whom these districts were formerly so much infested." 445 There are two roads to the Howk, one after having crossed a stone bridge (higher than that adjoining the church yard) on the bank of the stream through a narrow path in a pleasure ground, where the tourist is suddenly presented with th® scene. The other is to proceed on the Cockermouth road; about a quarter of a mile ¦to three lane ends, and at, the nearest end of the first house on ithe right to enter and cross the . fields^ and down a set of earthen steps to -the natural bridge of lime-stone above-men tioned, over which, and by a circuit to the right, is the iferayt to the point of View upon the former road. Above the natural stone bridge, is a fall, but so near that bridge as from it not to be beneficially observed. From this bridge the Waters make a turn at right angles, and pre sent the spectator with the abject >of his enqui ries. The water is elegantly agitated over a rock,. Which though rising *to an apex in the middle after imuich rain, *is entirely covered ;— *¦ in smaUer quantities it passes in two sheets crossing each other in their downward pro^- gress-^on each side the rocks rise toaheight well proportioned^ to the fall, and with the crowning trees and those-pafojectingfrom their sides display a most, loVely asisemblage. The Standing place is on a rock whkh rises perpen dicularly from the receiving' bason, but too much elevated : the point of beauty being about a yard higher than the surface of the water, and this cirfcumstaivce deserves the attention of the ^proprietor, who by blasting maight procure this desirable point, and thereby render addi tional charms to this sequestered spot. 446 A third fall not one hundred yards above' the others, though diminutive, is worthy, of notice. These are said to be the only exhibitions of the kind upon the river Caldew. ¦ Carrock and the High Pike two aspiring sum mits east of Skiddaw, are visible from Caldbeck Church Town. The river Caldbeck, a small stream running through the village* joins the Caldew near the church. The road from Hes ket- New- Market to Cockermouth, is again en tered half a mile from the church near Wath Bridge, and from the top of the hill beyond it, there is an excellent view of Cross Fell descried in the line of the skreening woodlands* aspiring from the Caldew, a river so deeply entrenched as not to be seen. Two miles from Caldbeck at Pikeless Gate or Park End; is a public house ; the only one on the nearest way from Caldbeck to Keswick. At Pikeless Gate the road enters a common, rendered chearf ul by habitations on the left, called Green Rigg. Two miles and a half from Caldbeck on the right, stands Snow Hill, a large modern house. Nearer Uldale the shortest road to Keswick turns off from the left by Langlands; on the way to which, on the right, is a view of Over Water. Langlands is situate in a deep hollow, whence the road ascending steeply, has from its summit another view of Over Water, and on the left Lowthwaite, a new house. At the bottom of the hill a road on the left leads to Stockdale and Foul Dike, two farm-houses, and one on the right by the foot of Over Water to Uldale. At the top of 447 the hill is Orthwaite consisting of a few pictu resque houses embosomed in wood. Orthwaite Hall, the first passed, is a spacious and anti quated mansion. Beyond Orthwaite at the end of a beautiful vale richly scattered over with trees, and guarded by stately mountains, maybe observed, along extended cascade, called. White Water Dash. Out. of the woods peep pretty buildings, amongst others Murk Holm, Broekle Crag, and the Dash. Having crossed the river and gained the summit of the road, the travel ler is presented with a view of Bassenthwaite Water, but this though good is greatly inferior to that he will next see, from the grand terrace at Bassenthwaite High Side, between and which at the foot of the hill, is the road leading to Bassenthwaite Halls by High MU1. From High Side 'the remainder of the way to Keswick has been already described, in the excursion round Bassenthwaite Water. dfrom Caltofceett to Hesfonrft 6g TOale, Uldale is five miles and a half from Caldbeck; and more than a mile beyond the road deviating to Langlands, At Snow Hill before noticed, and from it nearly all the way to Uldale, Skid daw is the travellers left hand companion ; on the right of Skiddaw appear the high lands at Withop. The descent to Uldale has in view a tolerable flat and pleasant country, around the ancient town of Ireby. Ireby, two miles from Uldale, has the sea near Allonhy in distance. In front, apparently alike, well situate for moun?- vol. ii. 3 K 443 tain and lowland views, are High Ireby and Ruthwaite, two villages placed on the side of Binsey. Uldale stands on an acclivity rising from the river Ellen ; the fountain heads of which are only a few miles distant. Three distinct streams unite between Over Water and Uldale. Lang lands and Stockdale, are watered by two of these streams ; the third issues out of Over Water. In its progress it washes Ireby and Blennerhasset, and falls into the sea at Maryport, one mile from Ellenborough. Uldale is a large village containing more than twenty houses. From Uldale there is a road to Langlands, and another by the foot of Over Water to Stockbeck ; from the latter one turns on the right by the side of Over Water, which has not much to recommend it till in the neigh bourhood of White Field, a capital house the seat off Gillbanks, Esq. White Field is planted with various sorts of trees, many of them exotic, but if Over Water was profusely planted with round heads in groups of ten ahd from that number to three hundred trees each-— it would in time become an exquisite place — . especially as having Skiddaw in distance ; the very beautiful and romantic dale through which White Water Dash is issued, and the pleas ingly wooded village of Orthwaite in the middle ground. This road from Uldale to Bassenthwaite by Over Water, is not the direct road. The pub- 449 lie and the shortest is over a hiU allowing one scanty peep at Over Water—but a tolerable pro spect of the Dash. After being joined by the road from Ireby to Keswick, it is united with that by Over Water two miles from Uldale. From this junction one mile on the Cockermouth road, that to Keswick deviates on the left by Robin Hood, and the Haws Rake, described in the excursion from Keswick round the lake of Bas senthwaite. pouter df ell. - On the road from Keswick to Penrith 71 miles from the former place one turns on the left by Blake Hills, and Wilton Hill to Mun Grise dale Chapel, and thence to Hesket-New- Market and Carlisle. — Blake HiUs and Wilton Hill are celebrated as places whence some most extra ordinary aerial phenomena were observed on Souter Fell, a few years prior to the middle of the last century. These appearances according to Mr. Smith, were first observed on the midsummer eve of 1735, by Daniel Stricket, servant to William Lan caster, of Blake Hills, who for more than an hour together saw several distinct bodies of troops, marching from east to west, a little below the top of Souter FeU, hut as he was the only spec tator his story was discredited. Precisely two years after that time, between the hours of eight and nine, William Lancaster himself was simi larly presented with the view of a vast army of 8 k S 450 troopers on the very spot where Stricket had before descried them ; Lancaster called his family,- who aU witnessed their marching and evolutions. As it grew later, rather than an army, it looked like people riding from a market, and was viewed in such sort tUl obscur ed in midnight darkness. This phenomenon was last seen on the midsummer eve preceding the rebellion, and then by twenty-six persons, all assembled by the Visionary Lancaster, at Blake Hills, from Wilton Hill, Souter Fell Side, and other places adjacent — all those previously favoured affirmed that these last appearances were similar to the former, excepting their be ing less regular, and that amongst the troopers, carriages were interspersed.-H-Some of the com pany imagining the objects, real, ascended the mountain on the following morning expecting after the retreat of so numerous a host to find horse shoes, but neither shoes nor the prints of shoes were any where discovered. r ¦ Amongst other information collected by Mr, Smith from this body of spectators, Mr. Lan caster stated that as a march was impossible over the selected line of precipices by real men and horsesi, he concluded on his first sight that the whole was a vision ; the night Was beauti fully serene and be strictly scrutinized the figures, apd to his eyes man and horse seemed to be one being ; — (true Mr, Lancaster for va pour destroys bounds,) but they were wholly unlike any clouds or vapour he had elsewhere observed* their number filled lengthways nearly half a mile, although continued in a swift march 451 during the above-mentioned time. This spec tacle was not confined merely to Blake Hills, *' but was seen by every person from every cot tage within the distance of a mile." All enqui ries on the subject are in corroboration of the reality of the vision ; those on the west of the Hesketroad, were generally not more than a mile from the scene of action, but from the High Nest five miles from Souter Fell, it was noticed by an aunt of Mr. John Allison, of Rosthwaite in Borrowdale. Daniel Stricket was well known in Keswick, and always spoke of the appearance in a positive and assured manner, and Mr. Clark in his survey of the lakes, to leave no doubt on his readers mind got his description attested in the foUowing words by Stricket and Lancaster. " We whose names are hereunto subscribed declare the above account to be true, and that we saw the phenomenon as here related." As witness, our hands this 21st day of February 1785. It is said that a similar sight; occurred in the year 1707, in Leceistershire, to a person named Churchill, and another, and probably like the above produced by the powers of refraction. The writer would joyfully have witnessed such scenes ; and even to have interrogated the fa* voured parties, would have furnished to him the means of considerable gratification. Though not abounding in credulity, he is well convinced that the presentations must have been of a very ex traordinary nature. 452 dfrnm 2&tstotcfe bp is greatly relieved by several angular tra verses, which have rendered it a pleasant and 478 safe avenue to the fine scenes to be observed at its end. From two benches, planted at the top of the. hill, the spectator looks over the soft bosom of the lake full into the gorge of Borrowdale, which is the grand aspect. Trees, judiciously hiding Lonscale Fell, the least interesting part of this panorama, likewise prevent the north-east winds from " visiting the face too roughly." These trees have on the right Saddleback and Wan thwaite Crags, acting as a back-ground to Cas tlerigg ; here shewing on its side the Ambleside road and the place where the park woods till lately stood. Thence under Castlerigg "square enclosures" reach to the spriggery, which, suc ceeded by the woods at Water Edge Bank, are crowned by the towering rocks Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag ; the latter prominent side- ground being one of the screens to the distance presented in front from the seat. This charming assemblage has beyond the foot of the declivity Stable Hills embowered in trees, and Broom Hill both on the brink of the lake. On the right afe Lord's Island, and Ramps Holm, and over them Gate Crag, Manesty Side, and the bank upstretching from the salt spring near Otter Island to Maiden Moor. Half way be tween these side mountains, is Grange Fell, known by its sharp top, and under it the rocky Grange Crag, with Castle Crag on the right, and at its foot Grange. Falcon Crag is suc ceeded by the brows of Barrow, Thrang Crag, Gowder Crag, Shepherd's Crag, and Hollow Stone Crag; the latter screening a part of Grange 479 FeU. After much rain, Lowdore is hence a delect-, able appendage to the scene. Above Lowdore, is the western boundary of Watenlath, through which the waters pass to the fall. In the direction of Grange, though considerably farther off, is the Coom Head, with other painted summits on the same line of mountain ; these are Glaramara, the How, and Allan Crags. Over Castle Crag, is seen, Great End, and between it and Gate Crag, the Pikes, or High Man on Scafell, Ano ther, though not equally well connected asso* ciation of forms, commences with Maiden Moor, which ending at Causey Pike, displays on the right Maiden Moor, the two Cat bells, and Rol ling End, stretching up to Causey Pike. Over the lower Cat-bells, Robinson, and sparingly Hindsgarth. The round point shewn over Rol ling End, is Aikin Knott. Beyond the inter sections of the lower Cat-bell and Rolling End, are Buttermere Moss, Towson How, and Knott Rigg, and still more remote, High Stile and Red Pike. Extending from the salt spring, under the above mountains, the line of coast by Water End to Silver Hill, is elegantly embayed ; nor is the eastern wanting, particularly in the neigh bourhood of Friar Crag, in beautiful indenta-, tions, and were these shores and the islands less formerly wooded, this aspect of the water would be wonderfully improved. A third collection is given in that line, which begins with Rolling End, and is finished at Whinlatter; here the highest mouutain, is Grasmire, but Causey and Grisedale Pikes assume considerable importance, All these are diminished by Barrow, and Bar row in a good line by Swinside. Swinside, is vol. ir. 3 o 4S0 likewise partially obscured by the thick set woods of Foe Park and Silver Hill, which join the lake, whose nearer shores on the way from Friar Crag to Isthmus, including the Strands bay, are richly calculated to produce beauty, whether observed from a lowly or an elevated stand. Derwent Isle appears very interestingly. Next claiming attention is Bassenthwaite Water; with Whinlatter, Lord's Seat, Barf, and the woods of Withop on the left ; and on the right, Dodd with his stately father Skiddaw by his side, presiding over the town of Keswick. Here, but much too evidently, is exhibited, the Isth mus spriggery, and near it Crow Park, so so lemnly deplored for the loss of its trees, by the bard of Lows Water, and by other sylvan and collegiate bards. But the poverty of Crow Park, is infinitely more eyeable than the riches of Isthmus. Beyond these treeless and outtree'd plots, is the outlet of the lake, shewing in its way to Bassenthwaite many shining patches, and many pretty villages, seats, farms, and cot tages, which from its borders bending upwards, present altogether an animating picture, but, pleasant as it is, almost inconceivably less so than were the nearer grounds in union with those between the lakes. Main rounfc tlje foot of Castleljeaii. This Walk leaves the Borrowdale road, on the south side of the first fence, north of Castle head ; at the end of this fence the road enters the wood, and having its boundary at no great 4SI distance on the left, and the Castlehead acclivity on the right, after a circuitous course, it again joins the Borrowdale road. This road has been made for the accommodation of carts, convey ing stones and trees out of the wood ; it is not yet complete, a little being unfinished on the south. The commencement of this walk, like that to the top of Castlehead, has an excellent and com manding view of Keswick, the lake of Bassenr thwaite, and Skiddaw ; and on entering th» woods, of Saddleback ; with Brow Top as a good middle ground. Wallow Crag oil a turn to the right, is in front, afterwards the head of Der went Water, ahd last of all the Newlands moun tains ; but this account is rather of what might be seen, than what can now be seen. Judici ous openings would display, generaUy, the va* rious distant objects, in excellent harmony with the foregrounds. ©ertoent pirfe. The village of Castlerigg, is not the property of Greenwich Hospital, but of private indi viduals, and the lands on the west thereunto belonging about two hundred yards from the village, are separated from Derwent Park by a fence, running in a straight line from Castlerigg brow to Brocklebeck. Those who wish to see the mountains of Borrowdale, of Newlands, and of Bassenthwaite, in fine association with the intermediate waters, may enjoy these sights 3 o 3 482 from Derwent Park, at present in an open blaze, but beautiful in the direction of Newlands and Borrowdale, only in their remote features ; for though nature in exquisite undulations has given middle grounds, agriculture has not been less industrious in deforming them. Bassenthwaite and the half distant flat, for many perfect compositions wants only the assistance of fore grounds ; these in the most delightful groves of oak and other natives, existed on the whole space, extending from the eastern side of the park to the Brow Top fields. All these three several aforesaid distances, is observed from amongst the trees, were ever varied sources of gratification to the rambling pedestrian, and not only from the park, but from Castlerigg brow, the fells of Newlands were admirably con trasted with the ancient road, and the foliage by which it was overhung. Nothing is left, root and branch is exterminated ; and thus a few of the most lovely acres in the universe, have been despoiled for an exchange of corn and grass, while millions infinitely better fitted for the sustenance of man are almost wholly neglected. This embodied wood was connected by a scattering of trees, with those on Castle head, and the bodies and their uniting branches, wanted only the friendship of cultivated art, to have become an unparalleled place. The lake, and the high lands of Borrowdale, were exhibited in sweet diversity from Brow Top, and thence to the first mile-stone on the Amble side road, and the park woods full, rich, and gaily animating, may be recoUected beautifully in contrast to the miserable patches of green 483 and brown, which pervade the denuded area, and now staringly salute the traveller, on his way from Keswick and Brow Top to the foot of Castlerigg. Nature in the disposition of the lands around Derwent Water, and the mountains and lakes observed from them, has been most lavish of her charms, in the district bounded on the north by the Ambleside road ; on the south by Bar row Common ; on the west by the road from Keswick to Borrowdale ; and on the east by the highest part of Castlerigg. All this extensive and highly favoured ground belongs to Greenwich Hospital, excepting the fields appertaining to the village of Castlerigg ; these are situate on the east of the Park, and west of Brocklebeck. Liberally assisted, more might probably have been achieved on the lands in question, dur ing the last hundred years, than can be done in the next succeeding hundred years. Native trees, the growth of centuries, have been ex changed for bare fields, firs, and larches, and thus disrobed of their stately ornaments, the swelling surfaces are rarely offered in happy arrangement with the middle and remote dis tances. In a situation where might have exist ed the finest combinations in the island ; now, they are looked for in vain; This is owing to that unhappy fatality, which has hitherto eyed this enviable plot exclusively to the productions of the soil, and that this diminutive portion of 481 the Derwent Water estate, should be appropri ated to the raising of corn, potatoes, turnips, grass, and trees, without any regard to sur rounding objects, is not a little to be deplored. Treated solely with the design of amusing tra vellers of taste, not only those of the United Kingdom, but of other European nations, it had been the favourite haunt of Englishmen and others, and the consequent accumulation of visitors, to view such a well managed forest, might have added considerably to the annual income of the hospital. The following observations resulting from a long arid patient investigation of the ground, are respectfully submitted to the attention and consideration of the Governors of the Green wich Hospital. It has been remarked that the trees which embellish these northern recesses are richer in their trunks, and leafage, than those of hori zontal, countries. This their flourishing condi tion, is owing to the falls of rain and dew, usually accumulated in proportion to the increase ia height of bordering elevations. Though on the part of the property here mentioned, the wood has been removed from the best part of vision, yet so much remains in other parts, as under an able inspection, might pre sent a number of new and pleasing pictures. All that immense quantity of matter so imper tinently veiling beauty, when cleared away, would produce considerable profit, and yield 485 to promising trees, the hope of becoming um brageous foresters. As objects of local elegance and grandeur, ought to be held sacred, unless impeding the progress of others still more grand and elegant; immediate gain as arising from the sale of timber, should invariably be dispensed with ; for time, that general arbiter and deve loper of truth, would eventually exhibit the choice of form ; and that which in some places might individually, be considered as unequalled in stateliness, must here in necessity give way to its still more perfect neighbour. Such a well situate, and well managed woodland, acting as a continued mine of wealth to the jolly tars of Old England, and to their friends and suppor ters, a fund of recreation, wherever brought into full composition with the grey summits of upstretching rocks, and mountains, would be never failing fountains of delight. Unfortunately for those who depend on stran gers, and equally unfortunate for the strangers themselves, the high visiting season is seldom Ion, ger than six weeks, including the month of Au gust, and a few days before and after it. Then all is bustle ; the inns full ; the lodging houses- engaged ; and hurried from place to place, the polite recreationists have their pleasures much in alloy by not knowing where they shall next repose their heads. If the season regularly ex tended from May to November, early, or late, visitors might witness the wonderful changes in the hues of foliage, so fascinating in association with the mountains, and be assured at the end of each days amusement of eomfortable accom modation. 4'SO. J3ut it is.presurned, that the inns and lodgings,. will be found insufficient to supply the demands of travellers, when the thus far unexplored beauties of the cc-untry shall become known, properly, estimated, and honestly reported. . If future seasons were to consist of as many months, as former seasons weeks, notwithstanding the growing influx of company, inns would be less wanted than new houses, lodging houses, and lodgings, which built in approved situations, well constructed and neatly furnished, would greatly facilitate the means, and enhance the pleasures of enjoyment; for all the grounds in the three united countries, there is not another so exquisitely calculated for that purpose, as that so notoriously the subject of these obser vations. Fortunately the treeless spaces on the north,- and south of Brocklebeck, are excellently fitted for the erection of a village or villages, and of these the finest are ; first, the top of the wooded bank rising from that stream to Derwent Park, and secondly, the grounds on the south of Castle head, reaohinff from the Borrowdale road a few hundred yards. The latter as viewing while sheltered from the northern blast, the head of Derwent Water, and the former, its captivating and commanding prospect of that noble lake, and the sylvan scenery on Bassenthwaite. Other favourable sites are the fields on the north of the larch plantation ; the hollow between Der went Parle and Castlehead, and lastly, the fields extending from Castlehead to Keswick. These projected improvements would require the con sent of the Governors of Greenwich Hospital, 487 and the sanction of parliament ; but, being ob tained, various modes might be devised for car rying them into immediate execution. . ,' A sum less than one hundred thousand pounds would be inadequate to the full accomplishment of this desirable project. Five hundred thou sand pounds would not only concentrate the skill of the empire on this very spot, but fur nish the means of rendering similar accommo dation, though on an inferior scale, at many dis tant places. Perhaps one hundred and fifty thou sand pounds would be sufficient, and subscribed in shares of one hundred pounds, might be raised without difficulty. If subscribers were limited each ,to twenty shares the greatest possible num ber would be 1500, and the least 75. It appears to the writer, that though an enor mous sum of money might; be. produced by alienation, such an act would be highly injudi cious, as the detached parts by, their occa sionally devolving to tasteless and frivolous propogators, might -ruin the whole face pf, the domain, and it is infinitely more pleasant to contemplate through an interest of five per •cent, to the subscribers, the highly improved lands eventually and at no far distant period reverting to the hospital, and tp be at. that time when the surplus money had accumulated to a sum equal to the ; original subscriplion. Or if not before at the end of a term of years (perhaps 99) should the Govtraors of the hospital he tl en disposed to add to the savings, a sura amounting together to t':at originally advanced vol. n. 3 p *-'::X-1 „.?:,-*:,.•»: -; -4S8 .; (-;':jr;? .—.•;."'-., by. the Subscribeia. .probably foe the sum^de- ^osited, fifteen per --^int. per anrfum Tftffit ,e returned oft furnished, and te%^dn ^iriipty muses in the best situations ; and not less^tnan silt o& atty. As an inducement to the fabrica tion of pnfe bf the finest villages in the" world; and the increase of rewards and comforts* to the fearless supporters of their countries rights, five per cent, subscribers would not be wanting; but as an additional spur, a small share of the profits might be proposed over and above the five per eent. '-.- t - '"'-' * — .. ;" ¦Tfee clear yearly income of these lands, on an average of past years being known, might be continued as ground rent during the present rate of lands ; or altered in proportion to the r- future rise or fall of landed property ; unless for a length of years, a stipulated sum was agreed upon, between "the governors and the subscri bers. The money ad van ced by instalments -Of iff, 10, 15, or 20 pet cent, would presently rSftjfrn five per cent, as: the houses ^i" small pi*rtiohV though constructed for durability, as tfetlm%eauty; might be speedily erected. ^:|ifv""" — *-•- .-...:..;:.:« The chief, if not ijl; jhe fieldknds within the described district, ought to be engag^fjby the subscribers, Who, as a security for rent, -should likewise covenant to build on the variotisr allot ments to a certain value. , Tl%e -fe little doubt but t^bese houses Would be tenanted during sum mer ; or for a yea*, oryeafs. To find renters wduld be the interest of the numerous subscri bers, ahd these being likewise eligible, as first selecters, might, in many instances, become the first inhabitants ; subscribers to the largest amount tP^^ve the'preference, and those pro* posing equal 'gyms to be favoured by priority 6? signature, ;. T£h> following crude sketch is offered as the expence of erecting ar.d furnishing houses. FpftNisjffED npusps^i^. 2 "..,'.'...,....; 4,000 each ..; , 8,000 4, 8,000 da .,., ^,0Pv 8 ..' U6Q0 do, ...;.. ,;„ 18,000 16 1,000 do .„ 16,000 32 600 do ..„ 16,000 ,64 ..,,,...,.,.,. 250 do. ., 16,000 1 126 - ,..'-. * 76,000 ;i it*.' "¦¦¦ ' „ . - . ; ¦"' In the above estimate to be included, the f oat i ef gardens, plantations, and all detiMfbed WM* jngs appending to the premises. UNFURNISHED HOVSESr-W* ',,. Houses. ' ' 4 .'£ ¦) 9 ..;...'.».... 2,000 each 4,000 . 4 , 4.. 1,000 do. ..., 4,006 » 750 do. 6,000 18/,... ,..;..i;.i: 500 do. , 8,000 M 250 do 8,000 44 ........ ...*.,!..;„.. J«5 do. 6,000 !&..,,.,..........».... fc.ipdo ........... 4,000 »ST4 J 40,008 Famished Houses ...... 126 Vr.furnisbed Houses ..................... 174 • loo ¦' 490 .Furnished Houses ,. £ 76,000' .Unfurnished Houses 40,000 'Church : 10,000 Concert room, Assembly room, Tavern, Ealiig-} house, stables and buildings, not iminedi-f o non ately belonging to private houses ; road mak [ ' ing-, and other expenses JJ - "••¦ Furnished Houses in distant parts of the country 15.000 £ 150.000 As many of the smaller houses tenanted. by strangei s might contain more than three persons, a man, his wife, and a servant ; some tour, two ladies, w'th a man and woman servant ; five persons to a house may be a reasonable calcula^ tion : -this would give the population at 1500. Peihapsit would not be more b> the addition of the tavern and dinner house. The furniture might be conveniently manu factured within the walls of unfinished buildings, and should unite with the highest elegance and taste, an almost indestructible firmness. Kitchen utensUs of the most approved construction, ail contracted for, might be had on ver} easy terms. ,f\t ., I- The church of Crosthwaite, though numer ously, -is not attended by all the parishioners ; these if wholly congregrated' might ¦ indudfe an overflow. . The distance ot the church frojm the toWn, and the bad road which joins them, is a bar to the regular appearance of the aged and infirm, and should the above improvements be carriedTinto execution, and a faculty obtained for the erection of a new church, it would. not 4••*»*-¦••». *•'••••.•«¦ ..... 0 0 0 1 km *3i>..., . . ¦ • . 104 0 3 ft 4 &¦"" 1$ ..... 0 2# ,6.; —""$'--""" ** 0 .;... o 7 10 80 .... «.*•¦ 2 ..... ........... 0 13 16 Mb$ richly '. ornamented with botanical plaints and flowers. jfSuch pretty gardens; ought to,fbe: enicjosed by Strong railings, erected tint sanely to rbe^ observed! from the t&)et§lies£ spaces.;- Scenes as extraordinary as inte resting^ would j be : presented from numerous paths winding in all djijceetions through the lower grounds to the feetiof the jrock, and thence in many a playful zig-zag. up to' Wallow Crag Pike. •But unaided by aart this point is not. to, be ¦reached unless/ by, those possessiag the temerity of the Derwent Water female, who at an alarm ing crisis is said.to have scrambled up the shiver ing gully, called Lady. Rake. Paths in places thus cut through rocks, and overhung by them ; or wildly shaded by -trees projecting over levels, tWould survey the distant , lands in such a per- ,petual diversity, asiin ho Sort to be conceived 'even by those Who hayelong visited the country. Steps over steep and- xugged ground, would in .some instances, be necessary to connect passa ges of easier] slopes, all which, wherever, r dan gerous, to bb .well guarded by hand rails,, and •balustrades of oak or, larch. These upland ter races might be occasionally strewed with flowers and plants suitable to the situation ; with fancy seats of wood or stone alternately encountering the sublime, the beautiful and the picturesque. ,rv. vol. ii.vsv, y- 3 R *¦ ^ hrt ¦ ¦¦ : '<•¦¦ ' 164 hdzs $arft --Krciw At the end of ' the wood* in a su<5cessto« of impetuous cascades, descends Park Beck, -tile stream issuing from Bleaberry Fell to the first Barrow gate before-mentioned, The accom* paniments in its present state, -are superior to those on Brocklebeck; but unlike Brocklebeck equivalent results are not offered for its amend* ment. A town or village near Barrow common would not have its vicinity to a turn pikeToad, a mai'ket, inns, and shops to recommend it,: and to produce a greater splendour in the falls, the excavated stones would not be useful on the spot. But that repose which is wanting in pre cipitous runners might be here effeeted by f&- moving the stones into heaps, and this, while it cost little money, would' generate additional amusement by the increase of water spouts and pretty eddying pooljs above, them, on the flat sides of which the nekt higher cascades might be delectably approached. < The bordering rock$, are broad, bold, and well shaped; and Where the waters pass through the wood, they are plead ingly overshadowed by oaks and other trees. Should the proposed improvements be executed. a Walk on the side of Park Beck to the top of Wallow Crag or Falcon Crag, would be one of the new recommendations to the scenery 0)1 Derwent Water. i On the denuded spaces north of the laroh plantation, and elsewhere wherever requked, 505 ought to be introduced out of the woods, the , largest native trees that might be reasonably expected to grow ; with stout nursery plants to complete the combinations Every species of » deformity whether arising from chance or mistaken ideas of beauty* ought to be destroyed, and first of all the disgusting row of ash trees easte^dmgiifrQm Friar Crag over Strands Hagg, which would with' propriety be arranged into two or three irregular groups. ;, The reduction of the treea especially those in Watetedge Bank, would greatly facilitate the labBicatibiv of bouses, for excepting foreign deal not: much extra timber would, be wanted., Stones, the carriage of which is usually attended WiWir 90 enormous expense, are generally at henjd' j those in Brocklebeck have hitherto been noticed, and the Castlehead stones; might be slid from their stations. On inclined planes, for the 1 ejection of the village on its side. Fire- w®b&;M any desired quantity, and coals of the best quality, might invariably be seppred by the company of subscribers. Dwelling houses GUghfcftO'be confined chiefly to th$,-fold3la£ds, but a few circular, elliptical, oblongs pr octa gonal/ erections of good taste, might be occa sionally iaterspersed through the woods; these vfeuldibe delightful resting and sheltering places, from hot sun and sudden showers. : Qf such; erections some ought to command the finest scenes and thereby secure the amateur and the artist those little known but much wanted ogpiwtunities of studying the fleeting effects of 506 nature. 'A keeper 'ot> keepers woulfl be abso lutely1 necessary to prevent the th'oughttess! from injuring the trees, the gardens, and the buildings, one of which, pleasantly seafedjlmightlbe re stricted to the sale of tea 'and its appendages ;> for wine and spirits' by transforming men into! woodland ba'cchanal'tens;- 'might engender terror in the delicate^frara%sti6i'-W»fta^ni'; children, and others. r^'ns '-d vl^i'tqotq rlnrr i.lno.v ri^'iw .g-jLi-o'tg ij.injyni ae-uli *io o-y. When Keswick and the neighbouring Der went Water 'fields were dfs|*aVedt"tot'th@ 'blest possible1 'advantage,1 additional 'aeeforfl mod ation might next - be- sought, tbyi'the ; erection ->iand furnishing - of : housesl--' ' ¦ A-pproaChesfi to mkiy other favourite points of vision on side grounds; or from*the tops of mountains, ought next to- 'engage the attention' Of «the subscribers. These tracks, * if ably conducted, would *> give iricreasingizest to the joys- of upland travelling, and the 'observation of beauties, probably other wise ; neglected,"' if not observed from benches to be planted on the roads. J uu;»p j-r,i e~j?r.i- '. *jf".: . ,.•_ .Hi'>..i;;r)f!dllB 'to ¦¦fI£(-.-nOD S'Jt Perfedtion thus meditated, and in some sort afchieved, would draw forth from every part of the dominion, and concentrate a society,' which for its mental elegance,1 and accomplishments,; would bte fa-rely equalled, and this society though inJ perpetual change, might be continued as respectable, as refined, by the proper introduc- ttSnfef new arrivals.1 •"¦ ¦¦">''. -j.,,. u.a 89.^ : boint:/; . ,f, j^d lvom! -til ;,= ~dr t^ifi*. 1 The "proposed improvements finally substan- 507 tiated, would render. Keswick and its vicinity infinitely superior to Ambleside and Patterdale, and confirm to this hallowed ground that high reputation which in its finshed state it would so abundantly deserve. FINIS. Higl iof &xmt$ifon& In the following distances the calculator has given them either as generally computed, or in other instances from his best judgment. • VOL: I. No. 1.— Vale of Lune, from Lancaster to Hornby.— Page 7. l,tlAS,l^-At Miles. '<•' "Miles, « 3 Messrs. Gray's add West's stations 3 ' * Catpn .¦.'.*. . .2 ClaUghton '.*.-.-. . 2 Hornby . . • . ". . . S # _, If the traveller proceeds to Kirby Lonsdale— ¦ — — .-.. j*. Miles. >J Miles. T'-> i;iC-n Melling ' . !: . . ;.. ,.':4»! I 11 yfoOuKirbry Lonsilale . .y . r •fjj.A*' 6;;jI 17 dr.v - ivo fv :; .- ic; o Sfil n i rti] --^ .3 The .return to Lancaster by Whittirigton, Newton, Arkholme and Halton, only 15, but » this road is not so pleasant as that by Hornby. I..IST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 2. — From Lancaster to Ulverstone, over the Sands. — Page 13. Miles. Hest Bank 3 Guide's home over the first sand . 10 Road through Flookborough connect ing- the sands Ulverstone ' 4| S* Miles. 3 13 16| SI ¦#m t& mm No. 8. — The nearest-.road_from Lancaster to Ulverstone, to avoid the sands. — Pages 128 --,; and 14.4. r.i «>,-.'? p/o'-r-ath :.-.;, iv/oili-l r>fjj nl ssj 'sn. JjICji';'.- Carnforth . *- Warton Yealand Conyers Redman Storrs id rifor; "m. marli .1 i*ii Leighton Furnace 1 J ,JWM,i'*i * "' «°" *''° ,f '«*• Millthorpe . „ . ,. . . ; .2 Hevershara ". ' JJ* -' :¦ ; V ' . If Levens 1$ , , Linclale - %r 5 Newton • . . . »•.,•'// ' • ,- • 3 -Newby Bridge . . . . ' 3-§ Bouth ... . .' . .' 3J Penny Bridge ' ... .' 2 Ulverstone . . .' .' . 4 <¦ ¦9712 10* 12 •ft 16|18 23 38 "No. 4.— The intended new road from Lancas ter sto Ulverstone now in great forwardness, is expected to be compleated in half a year from the present time (June 1819.) It will scarcely be less pleasant in its prospects, and over mueh ^more teveh ground and several miles shbrter than 'that above noticed. From Carnforth on the way to Millthorpe, it i passes between the LIST OF EXCURSIONS, ill. Burton and the Warton roads, and joins the one from Lancaster through Warton to Mill thorpe, at Beeth^m^.^ad evenin that_distanee reduces the length nearly two miles. No. 5-i—From. Ulverstone- to Furness-'A'bbey. "¦ ¦ '*• • Page 24.^ " '":': "' '; — -• Ji',7 \'/0l V/J .1 !:.-• I '''^.Li Mile J Dalton ...... 5£ 5$ _,.,|F.urness Abbey ij 7 Back to Ulverstone ;.; r . .;. >,.(, >,,,.' ? 7, >.I 14 , 0 j V. . . "d-Vi!ii. * m>.'; ,.i'o * i. j s 'el! ¦)-.» :,' No.; 6.- — From UJyerstqne by the western side of thV lake, to the' 'New' Inn, a,i * Coniston Water Head.i^Page '59. ^ ' Ji •'7"; , Miles>, Miles. hk .->»fi -r BowoVay Bridge, near Nibthwaite, ") (, y , either "by Lowick or by Penny >j.8£ Bridge . . • . ¦ 3 ,< Oxen houses, f . ¦i ." .".'"".¦¦ . ' "8f f ''8$ New Inn . ."G '•- • • 7i I l6 VOU. II.- : >* 3 s IT. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No 8.— From the New Inn to Levers Water. Page 88. Black Bull North side of Levers Water Miles. Miles. . 2f | 3J If with a guide return by Low Water — From Lepers Water to Low Water Coniston Church . . , Water Head . Miles. Miles. • 1 I H 2 6| . 1 | 74 No. 9.— Yewdale aud Tilberthwaite, from Wa- ter Head Inn. — -Page 91. Yew,dafe Grove . Low' Yewdale . Shepherd's Bridge Tilberthwaite Miles.. 1 1 . OJ \$ Junction with the Langdale road froth ). x Aijableside . . . . . • ) * Return to Shepherd's Bridge*— From the Inn by Yewdale Grove . 2J Yew Tree 1 ¦ ¦' Thd Inn at Water Head ... If ;;£ .yJ^TUbertbwiaite be added . . .3 'And Langdale 3 Miles. 1 22-5 4 5i 2* 3* 5 S 11 No. 10.-»-Seathwaite, from the New Inn. i i > Page 97. Coniston Church — — — Torver Miles. Miles. . k \ k LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Broughton .... Dnddon Bridge . . . , Ulpha Kirkbouse . New Field, peai Seathwaite Chapel Miles. 7 . 1 . 8 Miles. 10f 15 17* No. 11. — A shorter way than by Broughtonv Page 101. Miles. Trover • . . . . . 3$ Three miles beyond Trover the road to? ," the right S Broughton Mills 2 New Field 4 Miles, 34 8- 12 No. 1*2.-^- A still nearer way over Walna Scar, and more commanding in bird's eye prospects. Page 101, Coniston Church Runner from Goats Water Top of Walna Scar New Field . , Miles. Miles. 1 346 Recapitulation. From the New Inn by Broughton By Broughton Mills i Over Walna Scar . . , Miles. 17* is* 6 These roads compose two routes-^ Miles. By Broughton, returning over Walna Scar . 23$ By Broughton Mills, returning pver Walna Scar 18J No. 13. — From Ambleside by Coniston Water Head, Goat's Water, and Seathwaite Tarn, vt. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. to New Field Jun, near Seathwaite Chapel. Page 102. Mile*. ConistonrW-itej- Head ... 8 Coniston Church . ~t • ¦¦¦'.'¦ . 1 •- Goals Water . ,'j-L • , •; • U Seathwaite Tarn .' ' . . . .2 New Field 24 Miles. 89 10 l24 15 If returning to Ambleside over Wry nose — GolflrillCrag- . Cockley Beck Top inf Wrynose Ambleside ,,'f.. :::¦ Miles. 2 . 2 • ?i- • Si Miles. 1719 30 !. No. 14. — From Springfield, in Seathwaite, over themountains, to Birker Force and Stanley Gill, Jn 'Eskdale, -and thence to -Ambleside. Page 115. . • ".„,„ ' ;, Miles. Miles. Birker Force . . . . 4 | 4 Stanley Gill ... . . . . 2 | 6 Ambleside, over Hardknott and Wrynose 16 | 22 No. 1 5. — From Coniston , Water Head, Hawkshead, h miles. ,0' ---,"' ¦' to No 16. — From Hawkshead, by the Grove, -and Esthwaite Hall, ; rotind' "Esthw!aiter Water. Page 120. '" :-,to v'iir'ifl-vi -,- Esthwaite Water ' . . , The Grove ..... KsthHiaite: Hall '. ! ..: . . rt <'¦_.-. , Nearer SaWreyby the foot of the, lak,e Hawkshead ''.'".' ' . . - Miles, Miles H «* 04 1 «*- i H H a LIST OF EXCURSIONS. vil. No. 17. — From Hawkshead, to the Ferry House, on the eastern side of the lake. — Page 122. M''es. Miles. Nearer Sawrey . . . . 24 1. 2J Ferry House through Farther Sawrey 1J | 4 No. 18. — To the Ferry House, through Colt- house, and High Wray.— Page 124. Miles. Miles Colthouse .... • oj oi BlelhamTarn . H 2 High Wray • 04 21 Ferry House, by Belle Grange 4 6i No 19.-^-From Hawkshead, to Ambleside. Page 125; ~0. Miles. Miles. Belle Mount . , . . .1 Plljf r; ,-...,-. •-;;,¦; '• 2 ( Brathay Bridge . . . .1 Arhb'Mide-^ ' v . .;: •--'. ; 1 No. 20. — From Coniston Water Head, to Am bleside, hiy Borwick Ground. — Page 125. Mi!es Mi!es. Borwick Ground. . . • 34 ' 3£. Ambleside . . . • - ^i 1 8 No. 21. — Fi'om Lancaster; to Kendal, byBurton direct. — Page 127. Vlll. LIST OF EXCURSION*. Carnforth Burton End Moor Kendal . Miles. Miles. 54 54 5J 11 H I6J H 22 No. 22. — From Lancaster, to Kendal, by Burton and Millthorpe.— Page 127. Burton . Millthorpe Levens . Kendal. Miles: Miles 11 It . H 15* 24 18 . 5 23 No. 23. — From Lancaster to Kendal, through Warton, Beetham and Millthorpe — Page 128. CarnforthWartonBeetham . MillthorpeKendal Miles. Miles 54 54 Jl 7 6* 134 2 154 n 23 The new road which steers between this and the last, will be considerably the shortest of the three. No. 24 — From Kendal to Ambleside, the direct road which is through Stavely.- -Page 138. Turnpike Gate thence on the right fctavely .... Troutbeck Bridge Ambleside ... Miles. Miles. 2 35 4 2 1014 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. IX. No. 25.— From Kendal to Ambleside, by Bow ness. — Page 142. Miles. Miles 2 2 . 4 6 3 9 . 6 ¦i-i't Turn pike, left Crook . Bowness . Ambleside No. 26.— From Ambleside to Stock Gill Force, Half a Mile.— Page 154. ' , No. 27.— From Ambleside to Scandale Beck.— Page 162. :¦ Pass the Keswick road three furlongs to Scan dals bridge, and then enter a field, and pursue the stream at pleasure 1, 2, or. 3 miles. No. 28— Aquatic movement from the landing at Clappersgate, round the head of Winder mere.— -Page 167. ' : Miles. Landing ..... • °* Mouth of the river . Of I^ull Wyke .... . 1 Low Wood Inn' . . . U Holm Point . . . . . 04 Return to the mouth of the river • ' 04 Landing' . : . . . 0i Ambleside . . • «i Miles. 0* J* 4i4 H 6 61 LIST OF EXCURSION'*. No. 29. — From Ambleside by water to the Ferry House. — Page 167; Miles- 14 3 ilyofj^ Mouth of the river by the landing BeHe Grange Ferry rouse passing between the L ; the Valley Holms . From the Ferry house to the landing, on ) ., Ciirvvens Island . . . y,- Bound the Island ... From the pier to the Head of the lake Ambleside ...... If the Station house is visited from the tferry house the length of line will be 14 miles more . • Miles. 14 44 7n H u154 IT Some parties for the sake of variety order their carriages > td meet them, at -the Westmor land Ferry point, or at Bowness, returning to Ambleside by the Low Wood Inn. It will be plain that those at the Low Wood Inn may en joy the above scenes, as well from that Inn as from Ambleside. Travellers from -the north having seen the Ferry House, Station, and Island sometimes proceed to Kendal, from Bowness. , ,• ov No. 30. — From Ambleside round the lake of Windermere. — Page 169. Brathay bridge ' Higii Wray Ferny (I ouse Newby bridge Bowness Ambleside Miles. Miles , 1 1 . 1 . 4 . S i : 7 .. 1* 8 83 6 89 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XI. The eastern or the western side of Esthwaite Water may be pursued instead of passing High Wray, and the Ferry House. This will cause little difference in the distance ; but recom mended only as a variety to those who had be fore seen the northern half of the Lancashire side of Windermere. No. 31.— From Ambleside round the head of the lake by the Ferry points.— Page 169. Miles. Miles. Brath ay Bridge . . ... 1 Ferry house by High Wray and Belle Grange 7 Bowness ....... 2 Ambleside . 6 1 8 10 16 No. 32. — From Ambleside by the eastern side of Esthwaite Water, and the western side of Windermere. — Page 170. HawksheadSawrey . Ferry house BownessAmbleside . Miles. Miles 5 5 . 2 7 2 9 . 2 11 6 17 If the western side of Esthwaite Water is pursued the round will be 18 miles. No. 33. — From Ambleside by Coniston, Esth waite and Windermere Waters. — Page 170. Miles. Miles. New tnn, at Coniston . . . | I 8 Down the lake 3 | iw VOL. II. 3 T LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Miles. Return to the Inn : . . . .2 Hawkshead .' .3 Ferry house 4 Bowness 2 Ambleside ....... 6 Miles. 12 1519 21 27 Ldw Wood Inn. From this Inn all the above excursions may be made with the same convenience as from Ambleside. No. 34. — Walk to Skelgill from Low Wood. Page 170. Miles. Low Fold 1* Skelgill l| Low Skelgill ...... OJ Troutbeck road 0£ Low Wood 1 Miles. 334 44 No. 35. — Troutbeck and Troutbeck bridge. Page 182. Miles. Kendal road ...... OJ Guide post at Troutbeck . . . . if Troutbeck bridge ..... 2 Low Wood ...-.,. 2 Miles. Of 2 4 6 No. 36. — Circuit from Low Wood by Amble side, Kirkstone and Troutbeck. — Page 188. Miles. Ambleside If Guide post on Kirkstone .... 4 Troutbeck 4{ Low Wood s . . . . 2 Miles. 10 12 LIST Or EXCURLIONS. X1U, The same round may of course be made from .Ambleside. No 37.— Walk or horse ride from the Low Wood Inn, through Troutbeck and Applethwaite to Bowness, or back to Low Wood.— Pao-e 189. Miles. Miles. Guide post in Troutbeck .... 2 2 The How iu Applethwaite . . . . 0| 2f Cook's house ....:. g| 5i Bowness ]| 7 If the return is from Cook's house to Low Wood, the round will be 8 miles. No. 38. — Bowness. — Page 193. All the rides, walks, and boatings so far re commended to be taken from Low Wood, and Ambleside may be with equal convenience made from Bowness, but one to Newby Bridge will be shorter than from Ambleside, or Low Wood. Miles. Miles; Ferry house 2 2 Newby bridge 7 p Bowness 8 17 No. 39.— Ferry House.— rPage 225. The movements already described from the Inns, at Ambleside, Low Wood, and Bowness, may be commenced with pleasure from the Ferry house. XIV. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 40. — From the Ferry house, round the foot of the lake. — Page 225. Miles. Newbv bridge 7 Fell Foot 1 Ferry house 8 Miles. 78 16 No. 41. — Station house. — Page 228. The Station house must not be neglected, being a short and pleasant walk from the Ferry house. No. 42 — Vales of Great and Little Langdale, beginning at Ambleside.— Page 238. Miles. Clappersgate 1 Guide post ...*...1{ Skelwith bridge Of Colwith bridge 1 Little Langdale Tarn . . . . 1 J Blea Tarn 2 J Wall End ....... 2 Lile bridge If Langdale Chapel 2 High Close .-....]* First sight of Grasmere . . . . 0^ Pelter bridge keeping the lakes on the left 2 Ambleside 1 Miles. 1 2^Z4- 3 45| n 11* 13 "I 15 17 IS The deviation to Dungeon Gill from Lisle Bridge, by Milbeck, will make a mile more, and an ascent to the Tarn and Harrison's Stic kle, with the walk to Dungeon Gill, will make 3 miles, which added to 18, is 21 miles, of which, if assisted by a cart, it will be necessary to walk from 5 to 7 miles out of the eighteen. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XT. No. 43. — Excursion from Ambleside, under Loughrigg Fell to Grasmere. — Page 268 _ , Miles. Rothay bridge 04 Miller Bridge Cottage : . . ' . 04. Miller Bridge Steps . . . . 0* Fox Gill of Pelter Bridge rji Coat How 0^ West's station l| Tail End 0| Gell's Cottage o| Grasmere Church 04. Ambleside 4 Miles. oi o* lif2 4*i5 51 No. 44. — To Loughrigg Tarn over Loughrigg Fell.— Page 272. Miles, Rothay Bridge 04. Deviation from the Grasmere road on the left 1 First sight of Loughrigg Tarn . . ]| Loughrigg Tarn . .... 04. First sight of Grasmere .... 1 Pelter Bridge keeping the lakes on the left 2 Ambleside 1 Miles. 04 •i n 3 4 67 In each of the two last rounds half a mile may be saved, when Stock Gill and the B.othay, are sufficiently low for the stepping stones to be crossed. No. 45. — Loughrigg Tarn and Grasmere. Page 275. Clappersgate Guide post (turn rigbt) Loughrigg Fold Miles. Miles 1 1 • « H o* 24. XVI. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. The Oaks Grasmere Church Ambleside . . tiles. Miles. 0* 3 3 6 4 10 No. 46.— Elter Water.— Page 267, or 276. The foot of Elter Water, either by Sk el with Bridge, or from Loughrigg Fold, over Little Loughrigg, is 3-J miles from Ambleside. No. 47. — Round Knott. -Page 207. If down the fields to the steps over the Ro thay — Miller Bridge Steps .... Deviation on the left .... Leaving the Loughrigg Tarn road on iirsl coming to the runner .... Round Knott Down a green lane by Coat How to Pelter Bridge Amblesido Miles. • 04. 01 0* o* o| 1 Miles; 04 1* 221 3i No. — 48. — Ivy Crag. — Page 282. Miles. Clappersgale, (turn on the right at Mr. ? Robinson's) £ First sight ot the Conistou mountains . 0} Opening at the top of the hill to Windermere 04 Ivy Crag- \i CoatHow ]£ Pelter Bridge O-i Ambleside 1 Miles; if 3*i44 4 No. 49. — Yewdale. — Page 287. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XV1K Miles. Skelwith Bridge 3 Turn on the left at the top of the hill be-? n, tween Skelwith and Colwith Bridges . J » Oxen Fell 14. Hodge Close OJ Shepherd's Bridge ]£ Black Bull, in Coniston ]| Water Head Inn -1 Ambleside 8 Miles. 3Si 5j 7*i 94 Hi The length of line will differ little, if the party go from Shepherd's Tree to Water Head Inn. Bridge by the Yew No. 50, — Tilberthwaite. — Page 287. Miles. Shepherd's Bridge, in Yewdale . . 7 Tilberthwaite .:.... 14. Little langdale 11 Ambleside, over Colwith and Skelwith bridges 5 Miles. 7H 10 15 No. 51. — Tilberthwaite returning by Elter Water Hall.— Page 289. Miles. Shepherd's Bridge, in Yewdale . . 7 Little Langdale road by Tilberthwaite . 3 Langdale Chapel by Fletcher's Wood, and ) „ Elter Water Hall . . . . J Ambleside by High Close, Grasmere, and> fl and Rydal Waters . . . > Miles. 7 10 IS 17 No.- 52.— Wansfell Pike.— Page 289. Low Fold , . . . . • ¦ • Tl! r let road under Strawberry Bank Skelgill Wausil-llPike . , .. Miles. Miles H 0* 04 1 «* ii ii 3 DtST OF EXCURSIONS. Waterfall Lane Ambleside Miles. Miles. No. 53.— Rydal Water Falls.— Page 296. Lower Fall Higher Fall Ambleside Miles. Miles H. J* 04 2 i| H In walking from the lower to the upper fall ; part of the road to the lower fall is retraced. No. 54. — Nook End Bridge. — Page 300. Miles. Miles. Nook End Bridge by the cart road . 0| 04. Return through the Field by Scandale ? pi ji Bridge to Ambleside . . . S * * No. 55. — Sweden Bridge. — Page 300. Miles. High Gap ; leave it on the left . . Oj Sweden Bridge . . . . .13 Cross the Bridge, and walk down the pas-) , tures to Nook End Bridge . • $ Ambleside ...... 0| Miles. H2 4i No. 56. — Fairfield. — Page 301. Kydal .:....! Turn on the right between Rydal Hall, and ? , , Rydal Mount to Nab Scar . . C * Fairfield 8$ Miles. Miles. 5 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XIX. Miles. Miles. Nook End Bridge over the High and Low > $ Pikes Ambleside OS n No. 57— The Gale.— Page 303. Deviation beyond Gale House from > oX the Kendal road . . J °* Over the Gale to the town Miles. Miles Of 04 No. 58. — Penrith. — Page 305. From Ambleside to Penrith by Ulls Water.,.25 Mile's. No. 59. — From Ambleside to the Inn at Patter dale. — 315. Kirkstone Brother Water Cow Bridg-e Inn at Patterdale Miles. Miles 4 4 2J 6| 1 n H 10 No. 60.— From Ambleside to Hays Water. Page 318. Low Hartshope . Hays Water Head Return by Low Hartshope Ambleside Miles. Miles 7 T . 2 9 2 11 . 7 18 VOL. II. 3U XX. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Miles. Miles 7 7 ¦ If H H 10 ¦ 7 17 No. 61. — From Ambleside to Angle Tarn. Page 318. low Hartshope ... Angle Tarn .... Low Hartshope . Ambleside .... Nos. 60 and 61 may be taken in the same round. If visited from the Inn at Patterdale, Nos. 60 and 61 will make a round of 6 miles. No. 62.— Deepdale from the Inn at Patterdale. Page 319. Miles. Miles. Wall End the highest house in the dale 3 I 3 Head of the dale . . . i 1 I 4 Patterdale 4 \ 8 No. 63.— Circuit from the Inn at Patterdale by Cow Bridge, and Low Hartshope. — Page 319. Miles. Miles. Cow Bridge 2f Low Hartshope . . . .Of From Low Hartshope under Place Fell, ^ and over Goldrill Bridge to the Inn •1 n 3 No. 64. — From Penrith to the Inn at Patterdale. Page 327. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XXI. The Cumberland road runs by Red Hills V, Dalemain . Junction with the Westmorland road Watei-millockHalsteads ..... Lyulphs Tower Inn at Patterdale [iles. Miles If 1* si H 2 51 If 7i H 8| si 11 4 15 No. 65. — From Penrith on the Westmorland side of the Eamont to Powley Bridge, and thence on the northern side of Ulls Water to to the Inn at Patterdale. — Page 327. Miles. Over Eamont Bridge to Arthur's Round ) , z Table 5 J* Powley Bridg-e . . . 4£ Junction with the Cumberland road ¦ Oj Inn at Patterdale 9J Miles. H 5J »5* No. 66. — Land and water Excursion from the Inn at Patterdale to Lyulphs tower, and Blea- wyke. — Page 340. Walk to the Boat Boat to Stybarrow Crag Land to Glen Coin Boat to House Holm Walk to Lyulphs Tower Boat to Silvery Eay . From Silvery Bay by the side of the lake ~l to the wall, and thence in a half circle J- li to Blea Wyke, or Purse Bay . To the Inn either by land or water No. 67. — Walk to Silvery Bay, to be taken when the Waters of the lake are too turbu lent to be navigated with safety. — Page 350. Miles. Miles 0| o| • ii 2 of 24 . of 34 if 5 . li a "1 64 e[ li * 7f li 9 xxh. tIST OF EXCURSIONS, Miles. Place Fell quarry ... Of Biea Wyke or Purse Bay . . .1 Silvery t?ay in a direct line . . 1 Return from Silvery Bay on the margin 1 of the lake to the wall, and thence > 2g on the road to the Inn . . J Miles. OfIt 5 In the return the line is lengthened to the Blea Wyke Gate, but, the remaining part to the Inn shortened by leaving Blea Wyke on the right. No. 68. — Walk or somewhat dangerous ride, from Powley Bridge up the Westmorland side of Ulls Water to the Inn at Patterdale, Page 350. Miles. Miles WaterSide 14 H Sharrow . 14 s! Guide Post at Hallin Fell i§ 44 Sand Wyke . . l 5i Silvery Bay 2 74 Inn at Patterdale • • 2f 94 No. 69. — From the Inn at Patterdale, by Grise dale Tarn, to Grasmere Church. — Page 353. Grisedale Tarn Grasmere Church Miles. Miles. 4 1 4 .418 No. 70.— -Excursion from Powley Bridge to Da cre Castle, Graystock Castle, Hutton John, Dalemain, Barton Church, Sockbridge Hall, and Yanwath Hall. — Page 358. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XX ill. Dacre Castle .... Graystock Castle Hutton John .... Dacre Castle partly back hy the turnpike road ..... Dalemain .... Barton Church .... Sockbridge Hall Yanwath Hall .... Powley Bridge Miles. 2 . 3 ¦ li 04 . 1 1 . 4 Miles. 2 6 7f 10 Hi121314 18 No. 71. — From Powley Bridge to the foot of Haws Water, and thence to Chapel Hill at its head. — Page 360. Miles. This road is in a straightish line over the 7 common to Butterswick . . 5 Bampton . . . . .1 Foot of Haws Water ... 2 Chapel Hill at its head . . t 3 Miles. 4 57 10 No. 72.— Penrith to Haws Water.— Page 360. Askham having Lowther Castle on the opposite banks of the river Lowther Foot of Haws Water Chapel Hill .... Miles. 5 6 3 Miles. 11 14 No. 73. — From Ambleside to Haws Water, over High Street. — Page 368. Miles. Wound Hill 3 By Troutbeck Tongue to High Street, ? „t where Hays Water is seen on the left ) » Junction of High Street with Higgen- ? 2i dale ; Blea Water on the right . S % Chapel Hill . ... 2 Miles. 3 11 XXIV. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 74. — From Ambleside to Haws Water, through Troutbeck, and Kentmere. — Page S6S. Troutbeck Kentmere Chapel Nanbielil . Chapel Hill . Miles. Miles 4 4 • 3J 71 Si 11 ¦ H 13£ No. 75. — From Kendal to Haws Water, through Kentmere. — Page 369. Miles. Stavely ..... 5 Kentmere Chapel . . . .4 Nanbield 3J Chapel Hill at the head of Haws Water 2J Miles. 5 9 124 15 No. 76. — From Kendal to Haws Water, through Long Sleddale. — Page 272. Miles. Watch Gate ... . 4f Long- Sleddala Chapel ... 3 Sadgill Bridge . . .2 Chapel Hill at the head of Haws Water 4f Miles. 4f H 14 No. 77. — From Chapel Hill round Haws Water. Page 371. Foot of the lake .... Bridge between the villages of Bampton Foot of the lake on the eastern side Cuupd Hill .... 3 3 2 5 2 7 3 10 lilST OF EXCURSIONS. XXV. No. 78.— From Penrith to Shap Abbey. Page 377. Askham . Bampton Church Shap Abbey Shap . Penrith . Miles. 5 . 4 3 . 1 11 Miles. 5 9 1213 24 No. 79. — Road from Ambleside to Keswick. direct.- -Page 382. Rydal White Moss slate quarry Town End Hollin Grove Swan Inn Turnpike Gate Dunmail Raise : Horses Head St. John's Vale Smeathwaite Bridge . Causey Foot Summit of Castlerigg ^eswick Miles. 1 • U 1 °i • of • n 24 3 " of • li Miles. 1 4H 5.1 H 7i 10 "4 14 14| ie No. 80. — Butterlip How. — Page 410. Butterlip How is a little out the way, be tween the Red Lion, and the Swan Inns, in Grasmere, and half a mile from each. No. 81. — Easdale from the Swan or the Red Lion. — Page 413. xxvi. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Frpm each of these Inns to Goody Bridge Steel Bridge Easdale Tarn ._ . . . Round the lake .... Blind Tarn Gill .... Steel Bridge , Red Lion or Swan Inn Miles. Miles. 04 04 01 1 14 3* 04 34 14 *f 04 44 1 54 No. 82. — Helm Crag. — Page 417. From the Inns by Goody Bridge to Thorny- how . .... Summit of Helm , Turn How ..... Swan Inn ; : -. . From the Red Lion over Helm to the Turnpike road, at Town Head Red Lion ..... Miles. 14 0*04 04 2* 14 Miles. 14 2 24Si 4 No. 83. — Western side of Wythburn, or Leaths Water from the Horses Head.— Page 436. Miles. City of Wythburn . . . 04 Head of the. lake . . . Of Armbath . ..... If Foot of thelako . . . . If j, Junction with the Turnpike road to Keswick Of | Miles. 04 H 4 5 No. 84. — Journey from Keswick, over the sum mit of Helvellyn to Ambleside. — Page 444. Leave the Ambleside road from Keswick Stainah . ..... Highest part of the foot way from Keswick 1 to Patterdale .... J Summit of Ho-lvellyn passing over StyxandJ Whiteside ) Grisedale Tarn over Dqlly Waggon Pike Summit of Fairfield Nook End Bridge ..... Ambleside ..... 4| 4| o| 5 1* 6* 2 8* 4 125 1 13* 4 17* n 18 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XXY11. No. 85.— From the Inn at Patterdale, over Hel vellyn, to the Inn at Wythburn.— Page 456. Miles. Grasstead How : . , 1 Ridge between Hall Bank and Striding Edge \\ Foot of Red Tarn . . . 1 Top of Catchedecam . . . .1 Summit of Helvellyn ... 1 Brownrig's Well . . . . .04 Horse's Head, in Wythburn . ; 2| Mite.s: 1. 2* 5i 8 VOL. II. No. 1.— Excursion from Keswick round Der went Water. — Page 13. Castlehead, left : Stable Hills, right First Barrowgate . Second Barrow gate Barrow Hall Lowdore Grange Bridge . Village of Grange Manesty . Haws End Portinscale . , Keswick , If Bowder Stone is visited the drive will be 12 miles. Miles. Miles - % 04 . • °l i ¦ 4 if 04 2 of 33 i 1 4 04 44 4 5 64 . 2 8$ 1* 10 VOL. II. 3? xxviK. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No* 2. — The general aquatic excursion on Der went Water. — Page 46. Walk from Keswick by the little hills to the strand where the boats are moored, there take boat Friar Crag . Lord's Island . Stable Hills Broom Hill Barrow landing place Floating Island Mouth of the river St. Herbert's Island Water End bay and a little walking Derwent Isle Strand's Piers Keswick . Miles. \n . 04 • Of ¦i• 04 14 • °4 14 ¦ 040* Miles. »i I14 li14 2|3-5 7*n. No. S.— Walk from Keswick round the Crow Park race ground. — Page 80. Miles, To the race ground by the little hills . 0£ The race ground is perhaps half a mile} round, and various points are described > 0§ in the body of the work . 3 Back to Keswick 0| Miles. 0J 1* No. 4. — Isthmus.— Page 89. To the Strand's Bay . . Thence on the verge of tho lake to Isth' mus, round it, and back to the road . Return to Keswick Miles. • "4 Miles: 0* li 2 MST OV EXCURSIONS. sstx. No. 5. — Friar Crag. — Page 100. Strand's Bay Derwent Pier . . ; Friar Crag Retracing the road to Keswick Miles. 04 . 04 Oi Miles. ot 1 2 No. 6. — Cock Shot. — Page 103. Out of the road to Friar Crag, one turns on the left to Cock Shot, and this walk to the top of the hill is half a mile from Keswick ; but with the addition of a walk on the side of the fence ahd thence back to Keswick the walk will be about one mile and a quarter. No. 7.— Strands Hagg. — Page 103. Derwent Pier Strand's Hagg Back to Keswick Miles, Miles 04 04 • 04 1 1 2 No. 8. — Broom Hill and Stable Hills. Page 106. Gate to Stable Hills, one mile on the Bor rowdale road .... Within the field by the Fence . Broom Hill . To the public road by Stable Hills Return to the town . t Miles. \ Miles. 1 04 H H 0* % 1 s *XXX. £IST OP EXCURSIONS. No. 9,-^-Garden Heads and Little Hills. Page 108. This round is half a mile ; the way to the Heads is a little beyond Mr, Crosthwaite's mu seum on the road to the bridge. * No. 10. — Water End. — Page 108. Miles. Miles. Portinscale ..... 14 Derwent Bank . . . . . o| Silver Hill 04 WaterEnd o| Back to Keswick .... 3 i4 14 24 3 6 These grounds are only accessible through the courteous permission of Lord William Gor don. Np. 11.-— Crosthwaite Church. — Page 113. Vicarage by the Lime Potts Church, having on the left Dove Cote Back to the town the direct road No. 12. — Excursion round Bassenthwaite Water. — Page 116. Miles. Miles. Portinscale . . . . . i| I ij Pow,Mr.Birkett's . . . . 0* I li Braithwaite . . . . . 12* Miles. Miles 04 04 04 1 °4 14 1IST OF EXCURSIONS, XXXI. Jenkin Hill .... Beck Withop Smithy Green Onse bridge . . . Armathwaite Hall .... Four lane e,nds, the right to Keswick direct Road turning on the right to Robin Hood Bassenthwaite Halls by Robin Hood Higher Mill ...... Enter the road from Caldbeck to Keswick Along Bassenthwaite High Side to the dij rect road from Armathwaite to Keswick ( To Keswick by Mirehouse, right, Dancing \ Gate, Lyzick, and Ormathwaite, left ; New> Hall and the vicarage right . . j M iles. Miles 14 4 14 54 »4 6 34 94 04 94 04 104 1 i«4 1 124 04 13" 04 134 04 14 20 No. 13. Bowder Stone, Rosthwaite and Stone- thwaite.-r-Page 128, Barrow Hall ..... Lowdore ..... Grange bridge ..... Bowder Stone .... Rosthwaite ..... Stonethwaite .... The river on the right to the wooden bridge, in Greenup ..... From Greenup bridge to Langstreth bridge From Langstreth Bridge to Stonethwaite Back to Keswick .... Miles. Mile • of 1 24 3 4 . 1 5 1 6 . 1 7 h* 84 04 . 7 9 104 No. 14. — From Ambleside through Grasmere, Easdale, Greenup, and Borrowdale. — Page 143. Grasmere Church Goody Bridge . Thornyhow .... Far Easdale . Wythburn Dale Head . Push forward to Greenup Dale Head Down Greenup vale to Stonethwaite Keswick .... diles Miles 4 4 04 44- OJ 54- 1 6* 24 9 04 94 3* 13 7 29 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 15. — From Ambleside through Great Lang dale to the Stake, and thence through Bor rowdale to Keswick. — Page 148. Langdale Chapel Lisle Bridge, near Dungeon Gill Langdale Head Top of the Stake StonethwaiteRosthwaite Bowder Stone Keswick . . . Miles. Miles . 5 5 2 7 H 84 4 124 44 17 1 18 1 19 5 24 No. 16. — From Keswick to Styhead. — Page 162. Miles. Miles. Grange Bridge . . . . .4 4 Bowder Stone ..... 1 5 Rosthwaite . . . . . .1 6 Burthwaite Bridge . . . • OJ 64 Strand's Bridge o| 7 Seat Oiler Bridge 04 H Seathwaite Bridge Oj 8 Seathwaite. which is opposite the black lead ) QI mines ... . . > g| Stockley Bridge . . . .1 94 Sty Head Tarn 14 H4 Sty Head OJ 12 Back to Keswick . . . . .12 24 No. 17. — Ride From Keswick to Buttermere, through Newlands. — Page 170. Portinscale . Swinside Stair Stonycroft, right Emerald Bank, left Bridge near Mill Dam Miles. Miles li l£ 1* 4 04 34 14 34 04 4 «* 44 tIST OF EXCURSIONS. BirkriggGill Brow Aikin . Keskadale Newland's Haws Inn, at Buttermere Miles. . 04 04 . 0i it Miles. 44 5 5h 6 9 No. 18. — Ride from Keswick to Buttermere, through Borrowdale. — Page 185. Miles. Miles. 6 Seat OUer ...... If 7j Summit of the road, near Yew Crag . . 2 95 4 Honister Crag . . . . . Of 104 Gatesgarth ..... • U 12 Hassness ...... 04 - 12| Inn, at Buttermere • 14 14 No. 19.— Ride from Keswick to Scale Hill, Page 196. Braithwaite .... Highest part of Whinlatter Deviation from the public road Junction with the road from Cockermouth? to Scale Hill .... Scale Hill .... Miles. Miles 24 24 • 24 4f 14 64 ] n 10 1 11 No. 20.— Carriage excursion, through Lorton to Scale Hill.— Page 204. Miles. Union with the Cockermouth road, near the J „ Yew Tree, page 8 . • . .J Scale Hill 4 Return >.•.:• 12 Miles. 12 24 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 21. — Carriage excursion, from Keswick, through Lorton to Buttermere. — Page 204. Junction with the Cockermouth through Lorton to Butlcrmere . Buttermere .... Return to Keswick the same way road Miles, 8 8 16 Miles 8 16 iles. Miles 1 1 14 24 Of 34 H 5 i 6 i 7 No. 22. — Land and water excursion, from Scale Hill. — Page 202. Boat House on Crummock Water Flat fields, at Rannerdale Station above Ling Crag To Scale Force, and back Join the road at. the head of the lake Inn, at Buttermere By steering to the mouth of the river con necting Crummock Water with Buttermere, and passing through the meadows to the Inn, the distance will differ little with that above noted. If the party return direct to Scale Hill from the junction of the stream, joining Scale Force with the lake to the five miles, then measured, will be added, 3 miles, or 8 in the whole circuit, from Scale Hill. No. 23. — Days excursion for persons on foot or horseback to Crummock Water, and But termere. — Page 202. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XXXV. Miles. Miles. Scale Hill by Whinlatter and Swinside 1 1 From Scale Hill by land and water,) _ as above described to Buttermere J Return through the vale of Newlands 9 iiis 27 If on horseback the horses must be sent from Scale Hill to Buttermere. No. 24. — No. 21 in carriages.— Page 202. Miles. Miles.. From Keswick over Whinlatter, and) ._ 1 .- through Lorton to Scale Hill . > Aquatic movement described in No. SO 7 1 19 Return from Buttermere in the car "k j riag-e, on the side of Crummock f Water, and through the vale off Lorton and Whinlatter to Keswick ) 16 35 The carriage having conducted the company to Scale Hill, must thence proceed to Butter mere. No. 25. — Horse circuit from Keswick to Scale Hill, Buttermere, Borrowdale, and back to Keswick. — Page 202. Scale Hill by Swinside Boating- recommended in No SO From Buttermere to Rosthwaite, in > Borrowdale • ¦ • y Keswick No. 26.— Round the lake of Buttermere from the Inn. — Page 213. VOL. n. 3 w Miles. Miles 11 11 7 16 [ 8 26 f 6 32 XXXVI. tlST OF EXCLUSIONS. Wooden bridge over the river connect the lakes Sour Milk Gill Head of the lake . . GatesgarthButtermere bj Hassness . Miles. Miles. } Of 04 04 1 . H 24 OJ n . 2 H No. 27 — Walk from Buttermere to Wastdala Head, over Scaif Gipan 1 Black Sail; omitted by mistake in the body of the work ; it should have been inserted before Scale Force. — Page 216. Gatesgarth .... Top of Scarf Gap Joining ot the Ennerdale road Top of Black Sail Wastdale Head through Mosedale Miles. 2 • 11 . 1 24 Miles 2 3| 56 °4 No. 28. — Scale Force.— Page 216. Miles. Miles. Wooden bridg-e Cross the wall on the Lows Water or ) Ennerdale road . . j Scale Force Back to the Inn .... C4 1 04 2 04 li 2 4 No. 29. — Round Crummock Water from But termere. — Page 218. Stream proceeding from Scale Force Ling Crag .... High Park Lows Water Church . Miles. 14 Oi 14 o4 Miles. 14 3! 41 LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XXXV11. Miles. Scale Hill . . . . .Of Buttermere by the bridle road . 4 If from Scale Hill by the more commo- "i dious road, first, one mile towards > Cockermouth, l| mile more . J Miles. S 9 No SO. — Round Lows Water from Scale Hill* Page 221. Lows Water Church . Thence by Kirk Had, Bar Gate, Steal Bank, and Hijfh Nook to Water Yeat Gill falling- from Calling Knott . Place or Hijjh Water End Bottom or Low Water End . Crabtrec- Beck Join the road from Scale Hill to the chapel at the Suiitby . . Scale Hill .... Mi'es 0! ;» 04 . 1 04 !¦ Miles. °*nn 3f44 5£ Ennerdale Water. No. 31. — Walk from Buttermere to its union, with the way fiom Crosdale to the lake- Page 225. Scale Force . . Floutern Tarn . « Join the road from Crosdale to Enner dale Water, where, there is one the best views of the lake . Miles. . 2 r ? H Miles. 2 44 6 No. 32.— Walk from Scale Hill to the road be- tween Crosdale and Ennerdale Water. — Page 225. XXXV111. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Lows Water Church Proceed through Mosedale to Flou tern Tarn .... Junction with the Crosdale road to En- ~f nerdale Water, where there is a fine > view of the lake . . } Miles, 14 Miles. 0| Three ways on foot to Crosdale. No. 33. — From Scale Hill by High Nook, Page 227* Miles. A mile oh high road to Lows Water 1 High Nook " . . . OJ Passage to Crosdale over Blake Fell" Or to Crosdale deviating at the top of Blake Fell on the left Or to Crosdale by commencing the as- » , cent with the rivulet on the left, at High Nook, and then turning on the right .... From Crosdale to Ennerdale Water, ill is one mile ; the finest views are half J way or 5$ miles . . . Miles. H 4f 5§ No. 34. — From Crosdale to the eastern side of Ennerdale Water, and through Ennerdale and Mosedale to Wastdale Head. — Page 231. Join the lake BownesS .... Head of the lake . Gillerthwaite .... Foot of the road to Buttermere ever Scarf Gap Sheep fold on the riverside, from which, with the stream on the left, ascend to the top of Black Sail, Wastdale Bead, through Mosedale LIST OF EXCURSIONS. XXXII- Noi 35.— Walk from Ennerdale bridge to Wastdale Head. — Page 229. Miles. Miles. Paper Mill, with the river Ehen on the left I 1 Foot of Ennerdale Water . . OJ 1| Gillerthwaite . . . • 4 54 Wastdale Head, for particulars, seeNo.34. 54 1 1 No. 36.— From Scale Hill Ennerdale Water.- on a hOrse road to -Page 260. Lows Water End at the head of Lows Water $ Enter the common Lampleugh Church Road on the left, beyond the church On this road by Hi^h Trees, and Fell 7 Dyke to Crosdale . . 5 Halfway to the lake, the best prospect Margin of the lake Miles. Miles. 2J n 01 04 04 536 H n The above is not described in the work, but the deviation out of the public road from Enner dale bridge to Scale Hill is mentioned in page 260. No. 37. — Wast Water by Borrowdale, a two days excursion on horseback. — Page 241. I Miles. 12 Sty Head, the road to which is de- ¦ scribed in No. 16 Wastdale Head . . . .2 Head of Wast Water ... 1 Overbeck bridge . . . . OJ Miles. 1214 15 15J xl. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Netherbeck bridge End of the direct road to Calder Bridge by Harrow Head . Crook at the foot of the lake Strand's pulilic house, which is near Nether Wastdale Chapel . Junction of the Strand's road with the shortest road Gosforth .... Calder bridge where there are good inns Miles. 1 Miles 16£ 11 17} oi 184 H 20 »4 214 n i 3 24 27 Bye walk to Calder Abbey a mile from Calder Bridge. Second Day. Miles. From Calder Bridge to Ennerdale Bridge 7 Kirkland \\ Road on the ieft to Egremont and Whitehaven 1 Lampleugh Cross, (the Cockermoutb road ? ftX is the left) .... \ v? Lampleugh Church .... 1 Scale Hill 5 Keswick over Swinside and Whinlatter . 11 Miles. 7 §494 10 11 16 27 If the party proceed from Scale Hill to But termere, and thence through Newlands, the second day will be 29 miles and more by boat ing Crummock Water. No. 38. — From Ambleside over Wrynose and Hardknott to Wast Water. — 261. Miles. Miles Clappersgate . 1 1 Skelwith Bridge 2 3 Colwith bridge and force . 1 4 Fell Foot • • 2i ei LIST OF EXCURSIONS. xli. Top of Wrynose Coikley Beck .... Hardknott Castle Brotherilkeld ..... Bridge over the river Esk Daleg-arih Hall, and Stanley Gill Road on the left by Cllpha to Broughton Santon bridge . ... Strand's public house . . From Santon Bridge, direct to Crook, at the foot of Wast Water, 3 miles . Netherbeck Bridge Overbct-k iSr.dge .... Head of Wast Water : Wastdale Head .... Sty Head Keswick by Bowder Stone (sec No. 16) From Sty Head to Ambleside, by Siy Head Tarn,S(jrinklingTarn, and Angle Turn, and thence through the vale ol Lang dale, 16J the whole round From Sty rie.id, by Seathwaite and Stone thwaite, and thence through Greenup and Eskdale to Ambleside 19 iles- Mi'cs 14 1 8 84 10J of I2J13 H m H 16 l 17 3 20 2 22 1 23 2 25 1 26 04 26£ l 274 2 294 12 4l| 48-| No. 39. — Carriage roads from Keswick to Wast Water. — Page 284. Short excursion, first by Scale Hill and En nerdale Bridge — Scale Hill by Whinlatter and Swinside Ennerdale Bridge Calder Bridge .... Gosforth Cmok, by the Strand's public house Netherbeck Brdge; whe.ice the party" may proceed to Overbook Bridge, and/ towards Wastdale Head as far as they J find it agreeable. The carriage may be ( left at Netherbeck Bridge . Miles. Miles 11 11 9 20 7 27 3 30 5| 35| 37J- No. 40.— Middle approach to Wast Water. sdii. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. Scale Hill," through Lorton . Egremont .... Calder Bridge Gosforth . Crook at the foot of WastWater Netherbeck Bridge Miles. Miles. 12 12 14 26 a 30* 3 33J S| 39 2 41 No. 41. — 3rd. by Cockermouth, Whitehaven, (or by Workington if liked) Whitehaven, and Egremont. Cockermouth . . . Whitehaven direct Egremont .... Calder Bridge . Gosforth .... Crook at the foot of Wast Water Nether Beck Bridge . Miles. Miles 12 12 14 26 6 S2 41 36$ 3 394 ah 45 2 47 No. 42. — Walk from Wastdale Head over Sca fell High Man, or Pikes, to Toes, in Esk dale. — Page 317. From the village to the river Thence by the side of the wall Ridge on Lingmell, left . . Turn to the right Right and left to the High Man . Mickle Door . . . : Join the road from Rosthwaite by Esk Haws to Eskdale .... Toes in Eskdale .... Miles. .1 Ofc 04 Miles, OJ I li 2* 334 48 No. 43. — Skiddaw. — Page 327. Old road by Great Crosthwaite and Spoo ney Green to its union with Mr- Cal vert's road .... Miles. Mile*. 'i 1^ XtST OF EXCURSIONS; xliii. Or by permission given to the public by William Calvert, Esq. and John Banks, Esq.— Greta Bank Bridge Greta Bank . . ... Union of the Spooney Green road, and the terrace road from Greta Bank Junction on the Gale, with the road from Bassenthwaite to Threlkeld, reckoning t>y Mr. Calvert's new road From the Gale road by the side of the wall; tirst, on a roundish swell to a hollow, and thence in a steep ascent to the common gate Spring of water under the first man From the well by the horse track, on the east of the first and second man, to the third man, and thence to the sixth or highest heap of stones Back to Keswick .... Miles04 Of 5i Miles. n 2* 5| 10-5 No. 44. — The How.— Page 342. Miles. Miles. Long Bridge, near Portinscale by the fields called Howray The How ... If the return is through Portinscale ? Portinscale . • • J Keswick • 1 0§ 04 li 1 1* 31 No. 45.— Causey Pike, Grasmire, and Grise dale Pike.— Page 343. Portinscale . • • • ¦ Stonycroft either by Ullock or by the bouses called Swinside Smelting Mill . . • • Top of Causey Pike by a traversing ascent 1 Over Scar Crag top, Sail, and III Grags, £ 4 to the summit of Grasmire . VOL. II. 3 x Miles. Miles. 2J01 xlir. 1ISI OP EXCURSIONS'. Colddale Haws Top of Grisedale Pike Village of Braithwaite , Keswick Miles . Miles li 10$ li 12 2f 14f 24 17 No. 46.— Swinside.^Page 352. Portinscale ..... Gate at Foe Park . * . Across the south side of Swinside to gain an easy ascent to its summit Return to Keswick By a Boat from the Strand to I he pier, near Derwent Bank, the distance is considerably shortened. Miles H n ii 15 \ Miles. 1J If No. 47.—Higher and Lower Cat Bells, Page 353. By land and water to the salt spring, at 1 the south end of Brandelow woods . i Up tho Miners, road to the Lower Cat J Bell Higher Cat Bell . : . . . Haws End) by way of Skelgill Portinscale ...... Keswick ¦ . . . , liles Miles. 8 3 o* Si Of 4 1 5 2 7 U H No. 48. — Castle Crag, in Borrowdale, Page 358. If in a circuitous rout by Rosthwaite — Miles. From Keswick to Rosthwaite . . 6 Top of Castle Crag by way of New Bridge lj Grange Bridge, through Grange . 14 Keswick 4 Mile 6H H LIST OF EXCURSIONS. xlr. If the Crag is approached and left by Grange, the excursion will be only 10£ miles, but the other is a finely varied line. No. 49.-^Watenlath,-^-Page 364. Over Barrow common t Ashness Bridge . Wooden bridge between High Lowdore, and Watenlath '. Watenlath .... Rosthwaite ..... Keswick, by Bowder Stone and Lowdore Miles. 2 04 Miles 2 • H H *i 2 6 5 7 13 No, 50,— *To Watenlath by High Lowdore, Page 370. Miles. High Lowdore . , . . 3J Grand scene of Derwent water, through ) nI the vista of rocks on the left . J * Wooden bridge on the Watenlath road . 04 Watenlath l| Rosthwaite . . . . .2 Keswick ..... 6 Miles. 4 No, 51. — Wallow Crag Pike.-s-Page 371. Miles. Ashness Bridge . . . . 24. Up thesteep, keeping Barrow beck on the } right to the place where the land on the V 0\ left is somewliat level . . ) Wallow Crag Pike 14 Through the vilfage of Castlerigg to the 1 ,z first mile stojie on the Ambleside road $ 4 Keswick ...... 1 Miles. 2* 44 «! Or leave Brocklebeck on the right to the xlvi. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. plank, on the road from Wateredge Bank to the town. This will shorten the walk by nearly half a mile. No. 52.— High Seat, and Bleaberry Fell, Page 373. Ashness Bridge .... High Seat having Barrow Beck either on the right or left BleaberryFell .... Wallow Crag Pike Keswick by Castlerigg Miles. 21 '1 1 Miles. 2i. 67 9{ No. 53. — rRoad from Keswick to Penrith, Page 375. Greta Bank Bridgis » Myrtle Grove, left . . Field Side .... Druid SI ones, right . . . Goose Well .... Naddle Bridge .... Burns * . . . . . New Bridge ...... Road to Bassenthwaite, left . Threlkeld Scales road on the left to Caldbeck ¦ Spring Field Matterdale road right, a little beyond it left, is the road to Graystock Penruddock •. . . . Hutton John, right, Graystock, left Road on the right to Dacre Stainton ..... Junction with the Penrith road to Ambleside Red Hills Skirsgill ..... Penrith - . . . . ... Miles . Miles 04 0£ «i Of 04 1* 04 If H 2 of H o* 3 Of 3f o* 34 04 4 if 55 Sf H l 104 mo| I if 12 i ¦ 13 2* 1SJ «4 15i "4 16* H 16A H 17| IJST PF EXCURSIONS. slvii. No. 54. — -Circuitous walk from Penrith to Ea mont Bridge, Arthur's Round Table, May- borough, Brougham Hall, Countesses Pillar, Brougham Castle, and Penrith. — Page 381. Eamont Bridge .... Arthur's Round Table Mayborough ..... Return to Arthur's round Table . Lowther Bridge .... Brougham Hall .... Countesses Pillar, 50 yds. beyond the third miles stone ..... Brougham Castle Penrith, over the new bridge Miles. Miles 1 1 a 1*If 04 £* Ok 2* H H ¦ H 4 Of 4f H 6 No. 55. — Road from Penrith to Carlisle, Page 390. High Hesket Carlisle Miles. 9 I , 9 ! Miles. 9 IS No. 56.— Lanercost Priory. — rPage 407. Miles. Miles. From Carlisle to Brampton . . .919 Lanerepst Priory . ¦ . . . 2\ \ \\\ A respectable public house near the bridge. No. 57. — Naworth Castle. — Page 409. From Carlisle to Brampton Naworth Castle . . Miles. Miles. .919 ;; 12 Jflviii, LIST OF EXCURSIONS. No. 58. — Gilsland Spa. — Page 411. From Carlisle to Brampton . , Lanercost ..... Gilsland Spa by the Roman orPicts wall Miles. Miles, 9 19 2$ Hi 6 | 17J The distance to the Spa differs little from Carlisle, if by Naworth Castle. No. 59. — Giants' Caves, in a Walk from Pen- rith.—Page 412. Giants' Caves, on the Cnmberland side of the Eamont . Back to Penrith . Miles. Miles. H 7 \ 3* 31 No 60. — From Penrith to Edenhall, Kirkos wald, Nunnery, Armathwaite, Corby, and Carlisle. Appleby road ..... Page 413— Edenhall Langwathby, direct from Penrith Page 414— Long Meg and her daughters Page 417 — Kirkoswald . Page 418— Nunnery Page 419 — Armathwaite Bridge Walk from the bridge by Armathwaite Castle, one mile up the Eden , . Return to the Bridge Page 421— Corby .... Carlisle, by Wetherall . . . Miles . Miles 1 1 1 3 4 4* 4* 2f H 3* 10£ 2 l24 3 \H 1 16i 1 l~i 7 244 5 294 No. 61.— Carriage road by Ulls Water, to th. Inn at Patterdale. — Page 427. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. xlvix Miles. From the turnpike road to Penrith, turn ? ,„, off on the right . . , ( ,0i Brownrigg ..... 21 - Dockray . . . ; . 21 Junction of the Keswick and Penrith ? ,? roads, on the side of Ulls Water C * Inn at Patterdale .... 4 Miles. 10$ 13 15417 21 No. 62.— »Horse road from Keswick by Ulls Water to the Inn at Patterdale.— Page 429. Miles. 2-J On the Penrith road, to a deviation a little beyond Naddle Bridge Wanthwaite Mill . . . » '' 1 J Entei the road from Threlkeld to Amble- f side, turn on the right to that having > 01 on the left Hill Top . . ) Over the common by High Row to Dockray 5 Inn at Patterdale . . . . 5| Miles. 3f 49 141 No. 63. — Foot road from Keswick to the Inn at Patterdale, which stands at the head of Ulls Water. Miles. Miles. 4§ *i «* 5 li 64 Of 7 3 10 1* "i Pursue the Ambleside road . . Staiuah ...... Highest part of the foot way Greensides lead mines Through Glenridden to the Penrith road Inn at Patterdale .... This road is mentioned in the first volume to the highest part of the road, page 446. No. 64. — Drive or ride from Keswick through St. John's Vale to Threlkeld.— Page 431. List of excursions. Enter the Ambleside road to Threlkeld, on ? the way from Keswick to Ambleside, left $ Legberthwaite Mill .... Brame Crag ..... Lowthwaite ..... Threlkeld . . : . . Keswick ..... Miles 4f Of 4 Of 2 4 Miles; 4f Si 61 Ik9| 13£ No. 65. — Foot way by St. John's Chapel to Threlkeld.— Page 434. On the turnpike road towards Ambleside On the left, through the fields by Sykes to St. John's Chapel . Wanthwaite Mill . '. Threlkeld Keswick Miles. 14 1 Of 14 Miles. 14 248**i 8f No. 66.— Stricket Dodd. — Page 435. St. John's Chapel ; Summit of Stricket Dodd Return to the Chapel . Back to Keswick Miles, . 24 04 . 04 24 Miles. 24 3 34 6 No. 67. — Circuit by St. John's Chapel, and Smeathwaite Bredge to Keswick — Page 437. Through St. John's to Keswick. St. John's Chapel Smeathwaite Bridge, by Ricka, having the River Greta on the left . Keswick . , Miles. Miles. n.2f4* 2i If to the above an ascent to Stricket Dodd from St. Johns Chapel be added, the length will be 10 miles. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. li. No. 68.—- Drive round Saddleback and Skiddaw by Threlkeld, Scales, Hesket New Market, Caldbeck, and Bassenthwaite Water. — Page 438. ' Threlkeld Scales : Souter Fell : . : r Mungrisedale Chapel Bowscale ...... Hesket New Market Caldbeck Church Town Join the Hesket road to Uldale, at Wath j Bridge ... . t Pikeless Gate ... . Snow Hill . . ; . : Four miles from Caldbeck, a, road across J the common to Langlands . . ( Langlands '" . . . . . Orthwaite Hall ... Bridge over White Water Bassenthwaite High Side Keswick ...... [iles. Miles 4 4 If 5f !i 7 8f If 10 5i 1 If 164 Of 1 Of 184 Of 19 H 20$ 14 23 if 23| of 24§ 2 26* 6 3,4 No. 69. — Round Saddleback and Skiddaw, through Hesket, Caldbeck, and Uldale.— Page 447? Miles. Hesket ,,...: 15f Caldbeck 1J Uldale : 5\ Ouze Bridge road by Over Water to the " deviation to Robin Hood . Keswick by Robin Hood, Bassenthwaite) Halls, High Mill, and High Side , £ 3i 8* Miles. 15|16* 22 25* 33f If the direct road from Uldale is pursued, rather than that by Over Water, the distance to Keswick will be a mile shorter. vol. n. 3 y Ui. LIST OF EXCURSIONS. JSTo. TO.-r-Souter as seen from Blake Hills, and Wilton Hill. — Page 449. Miles. Towards Penrith . ; . . 7f Blake Hills and Wilton Hill, on the road } T to Hesket New Market . . J Back to Keswick . ... 84 Miles. 74 84 17 The above are the places from which the asrial phenomenon was observed by Daniel Strickett, and others, in the middle of the last century. No. 71' — Graystock Castle.— Page 452. Penrith road . Graystock Castle Penrith Miles. Miles lOf 10f • 2f 13 H 18f No. 72. — Drive to Dancing Gate, and thence under Skiddaw by the Gale to Threlkeld.— * Page 453. Miles. Dancing Gate . . . . .3* Gale -. . . , 2J Enter the Penrith road between Rudding ? „, and Threlkeld .... \ *i Keswick ..... 3i Miles. ? Uf No. 73. — From Keswick by Great Crosthwaite to Threlkeld. — Page 457. Miles. Greta Bank by Great Crosthwaite . . 1J Joining of the road between Rudding and? „T Threlkeld . : . . . $ 8* Keswick , . . , , . 31 Miles. If 4f 7* LIST OF EXCURSIONS* &!!. No. 74 — From Keswick by Greta Bank Bridge* and Greta Bank to Threlkeld.— Page 457. Greta Bank by the Bridge s : Of Threlkeld road near Rudding . . 24 Keswick , . ... 3* Miles. Miles. Of"3f 6f No. 75.— Summit of Latrigg,— Page 459* Greta Bank by the bridge 0| Spooney bridge road . : . s 0| Second occupation road on. the right to. J ni ;the * * Keswick, crossing Brocklebeck at the plank 1 [ 2* No. 85. — Brocklebeck. — Page 495. Crosses the road to Borrowdale from Keswick £ Plank over Brocklebeck ... 4 Castlerigg . . . . • -4 Wallow Crag Pike : t Back to Keswick through the Village of Cas- } 2i tlerigg , S * No. 86.— Park Beck. ii 'I 4| 13 It crosses the Borrowdale road near the first Barrow gate .... Br the side of the stream to Wallow Crag ? j "pike ...... S To Keswick, through Castlerigg . 2J Miles. Miles. If 2f 4 Randal, Printed! by R. Lough and Co. Fiakle-gtreet. ERRATA VOL. II, pkGE. LINE. 14 4 — after with insert the. 43 24— for Isles read Isle. 95 5 — for observations read observation. Ill 9— tor field read fields. 150 9 — for Inglebarrom read Ingleborougli. 157 20 — for or through read thence through. 161 15 — for eight read six. 187 1 — for swiming read swimming. 262 5 — period after Hardknott ; no stop after beck, 276 12— for of read by. 287 27 — insert is after »f. 299 15 — after^/Woresoj/ erase and. 300 26— for/ue'sread/earfs. 304. 15 — for flatterread Holker. $27 A mistake has occurred here ; the height of Skiddaw by Mr. Greatorex differs a few feet only with that by Mr. Otley. 329 12 — for assemblage read assemblages. 338.. 6 — after the erase and. 363 7— for to read at. 384 21 — for receive read received. 395 , 6 — for employments read employment. 39S 17 — after pursued, a comma. 422 22 — for near foreground read near ground. 447 29 — for tolerable read tolerably. 463 28— after and, at. 464 10— after the, insert old, 476 33— for is read to. 477 2 — after in, erase the. 482 ..13 — for is read as. 482 20 — for is read are, 484 27 — for past read points. 485 10— after here, for in read of. 486 13— insert of after /or; 486 14 — for countries read counties. 490 10— after might insert no*. 492 23 — for demand read demands. 500 ..28— for convenience read conveyance. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 06050 3498