YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY •- ^ i CONTENTS, ILLUMINATIONS AND FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. I Nature in the North, facing Nature in the South, . . i The Flags of the United States, 4 Geographical Map of the U. S., 8, 9 Historical Map of the U. S., . 10 West Point, 18 The Military Service, .... 19 Annapolis,, 22 The Naval Service, . . . 23 The Presidents Portrayed, . . 15 Yosemite Valley, . . . . . 75 PAGE. Washington, D. C, 151 Washington, D. C, Monuments, . 161 •¦'. Chicago, .... .... 217 New-York City, 605 j Niagara Falls, 627 Gettysburg Monuments, Yellowstone National Park, The Natural Products, . . Nature in the East, . . . Nature in the West, . . . 7'5893 939 940941 The Map's of the States form an Atlas arranged in their alphabetical order and cover the 48 pages from 461 to jos. DESCRIPTION AND MAPS. TEXT. MAP. PAGE. PAGE. United States, .... 5 9 Alabama, . .... 27 461 Alaska, 43 465 Arizona, .... 53 462 Arkansas, . . -59 463 Atlas of the States, 461-508 California, . . .69 465 Colorado, . . 101 466 Connecticut, . 117 467 Delaware, . . . 143 468 District of Columbia, . 149 468 Florida, 165 469 Georgia, 177 470 Idaho, ... ... 193 471 Illinois, 201 472 Indiana, 233 473 Indian Territory, 247 502 Iowa, . . . 253 474 Kansas, . . . . 263 475 Kentucky, . 273 476 Louisiana, . . 293 478 Maine, . ... 311 479 Maryland, . . 321 468 Massachusetts, . . 339 480 Michigan, ... . 401 483 Minnesota, . . . . . 419 481 Mississippi, . . . 437 484 Missouri, . . . Montana, . . . Nebraska, . Nevada, . . . New Hampshire, New Jersey, . New Mexico, New York, . . North Carolina, North Dakota, . ¦Ohio, Oklahoma,Oregon, Pennsylvania, . Rhode Isjland, . South Carolina, South Dakota, . Tennessee,Texas, . . Utah, . . Vermont,Virginia, . Washington, . West Virginia, . Wisconsin, Wyoming, . Index, . . ¦. . TEXT. MAP. PAGE. PAGE. 443 485 509 486 52' 487 531 464 537 " 506 .549 488 567 489 575 491 645 492. , 655 493 661 494 693 5°2 j 4951 497]498J 697 709 763 781 789 500 795 477..- 811 50? 831 5°L §39849 5o' ,L^°" Ot°H MAP OF THE fWSgTV& ^\UNITED states ft^Bum I H f^S ^ ^SrttlLn-an*- Ki"9's Handbook of the - S V, fcl \ V/--«---\^---^St"""''' " United States, gAKWSW rA4-B»°»!flDf ""SJ'-^f^ 0 ACKSOfi^gr- BV ,„TTHEWS, »0«T„RUP . CO., BUFFALO, K. > currency, copyrights and patents, taxation for general purposes, and the protection of citizens against unjust State legislation. AH other and local administrations inhere in the several States, where the local needs are best known. The President and Congress are subject to Lhe Constitution, and the only sovereign power is the will of the people, acting under the Constitution, and with the capacity of amending that document. The President and Vice- President are chosen by electors (now numbering 401), the people of each State choosing by vote as many as the State has members of both houses of Congress. The electors meet in their several States, and vote for the candidate whom they have been elected to choose. So that the electoral vote of each State is solid for one candidate, and the popular vote for the minority candidate in that Commonwealth is lost. Thus it may happen (and has hap pened at least twice) that the Presidential candidate in whose name the largest number of votes has been cast by the people, is not elected. If no one gets a majority of the total number of electoral votes, the House of Representatives must choose the President, from the three candidates receiving the highest number of electoral votes. In this case (which has happened twice) the Representatives vote by States, each State delegation being a unit. \ Thus the 23 smaller States could elect a President against the 22 larger States. There is an unwritten law, that will probably never be disregarded, that no chief magistrate shall have a third term. The President is commander-in-chief of the army and navy, but never offi cially enters the field of war. He appoints the chief executive officers of the Government. The Cabinet includes the Secretaries of State, the Treasury, War, the Navy, the Interior, , and Agriculture, the Postmaster-General and the Attorney-General. The Secretaries of State, the Treasury, and War, and the Attorney-General composed Washington's cabinet. The Congress of the United States is composed of the Senate and the House of Repre sentatives. The Senate includes 88 senators, two being elected by the legislature of each State, for a term of six years. It is the connecting link between the State and Federal j Governments, being chosen by the States (not by the people) to form part of the National f Government. The House 6f Representatives includes 332 members, elected every two years } by a vote of the people. The relative importance of the State governments has decreased! within a half-century, while the Nation has grown majestically superior. The Federal judicial tribunals include the Supreme Court, of nine justices, sitting at Washington; the nine Circuit Courts; the 55 District Courts; and the Court of Claims (with five justices). They deal with cases in law and equity arising under the Federal! Constitution, laws or treaties; cases affecting ambassadors and consuls ; cases of maritime jurisdiction; controversies to which the United States is a party; and controversies be tween States, or citizens of different States, or a State and citizens of another State, or be J; tween States (or their citizens) and foreign states or subjects. % The domain of the United States now includes 44 States, four Territories (New Mexico, " Arizona, Utah and Oklahoma), the District of Columbia, Alaska, and the Indian Territory.' The 13 original States were New Hampshire, Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland Delaware' Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. Maine was taken from Massachusetts ; Vermont, from New Hampshire and New York ; and West Virginia from Virginia. The remaining 28 States have risen from later-won domains of the Republic ^J "1 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 17 The United-States Army consists of 25,627 men, in ten regiments of cavalry, five of artillery, and 25 of infantry. There are 2,225 negro soldiers, forming the Ninth and Tenth Cavalry and the 24th and 25th Infantry regiments; and 1,485 Indian soldiers, to be enrolled into regiments. There are 104 garrisoned posts (not including arsenals), and 45 ungarrisoned forts. The organized militia numbers 99,000 men, and the unorganized militia includes 7,200,000 men available for military duty. The Soldiers' Home is near Washington. The United-States Military Academy at West Point (New York), has graduated 3,500 officers for the army. Post-graduate schools for officers are in operation at Fort Monroe, Virginia (for artillery), and at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas (for cavalry and infantry). Up to the year 1861, West Point had graduated 1,966 officers, of whom 1,249 were tnen living. Three fourths of these fought in the armies of the Union, including 162 from the insurgent South (nearly half of the Southern graduates). During the war, one half of the West-Point graduates were wounded, and one fifth were killed in battle (see page 599). The United-States Navy includes 8,000 men, and about 40 vessels of the old fleet (mostly out of commission), and an equal number of vessels of the new navy, some of them still under construction. These include battle-ships, harbor-defence rams, torpedo- boats, and armored and unarmored cruisers, most of them of steel, and with heavy modern armaments. The Marine Corps numbers 2,100 men. There are ten navy-yards, and four naval stations. The United-States Naval Academy, at Annapolis (Maryland), fits picked young men, by a six years' course of study, to be officers in the Line and Engineer Corps of the Navy, and in the Marine Corps (see page 332). The favorite National song with the army is The Star- Spangled Banner, written in 1814, by Francis Scott Key, of Georgetown, D. C. , at that time a prisoner on the British fleet which was unsuccessfully attacking Fort McHenry, near Baltimore.. The popular National song, America, was written in Andover, Mass., in 1832, by Samuel Francis Smith, a na tive of Boston, a classmate of Oliver Wendell Holmes at Har vard, and now for many years past a resident of Newton, Mass. , being by profession a clergyman. The John Brown song, so famous in the Union armies, originated at Fort War ren, in Boston Harbor, in 1861, among the Massachusetts vol unteers. The one great poem of the war period was The Bat tle Hymn of the Republic, written to the John Brown tune, by Julia Ward Howe, of Massa chusetts. Of the older patriotic songs, Columbia, the Gem of the Ocean and Hail Columbia both emanated from Philadelphia, the one in 1843, and the other in 179S. Pensions are paid to 550,000 persons, including 61,000 in New England, 110,000 in the Middle States, 91,000 in the South, and 275,000 in the West. The amount exceeds $100,000,000 a year. The list contains a score of widows of Revolutionary soldiers. The United-States Revenue-Cutter Service has 16 armed cruisers on the Atlantic and the Gulf, four on the Pacific, and four on the Great Lakes, besides the harbor-steamers, and the school-ship at New Bedford. It costs $1,000,000 a year; and enforces the cus toms and neutrality laws, assists vessels in distress, and discharges many other duties. The Exports amount to $700,000,000 a year, three fourths of which is in agricultural products. Nearly two thirds goes to Great Britain and her colonies. The imports reach $600,000,000 yearly, one third of which comes from Great Britain and her colonies. Before the civil war, two thirds of the imports and exports were carried in American vessels ; now, less than one twelfth is thus carried. Commerce employs 4, 400, 000 tons of American ship ping, valued at $180,000,000. Three fourths of this is in the coastwise trade. Thetonnage exceeds that of every other nation except one. NEW-YORK CITY : GRANT MONUMENT, BEING ERECTED IN RIVERSIDE PARK. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. tb¥F '^^1^^ UNITED-STATES MILITARY ACADEMY, WEST POINT, NEW YORK. THE UNITED STA 7ES OF AMERICA. 19 LltOT.COtQNEL, -Iti/JOH ' ~ ' SuftGCOK. Captain. GtNSRM Calami. fMH^^^^tr////ery ' ' «***«»«: MILITARY SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Post-Office De partment costs $66,- 000,000 a year, and hasi revenue of $61,000,000. Transporting mails cosfef $34,000,000, and post masters' salaries, $14,- 000, 000. This depart ment has introduced many remarkable im provements, including the interesting system of the railway mail service, and sea post-offices. The United-States Light-House Board controls 1,021 light-houses and lighted beacons, 26 light-ships, 240 fog-sig- iNTLHia'pTor a postal'-'" naiSj 1,300 river-lights, 390 day beacons, 132 whistling or bell buoys and 4, 200 buoys. There are 30 small vessels and 3,200 men employed. Finances. — The Government has received since its foundation (excluding loans) about $12, 000, 000, 000; J Of this amount, nearly $7,000,000,000 were from cus toms and $4,000,000,000 from internal revenue. TM expenditures have been $12,500,000,000; for war'j $4,700,000,000; the navy, $1,200,000,000; pensions, $1,400,000,000; interest, $2,700,000,000; and for other-? 2,500,000,000. The several States and Territories owe $223,000,009, net; the 142,000,000, net ; and the 779 chief municipalities, $470,000,000, net. The debts § RAILWAY MAIL SERVICE. purposes counties,are less than in 1880. The money now in circulation amounts to $1,500,000,000, one fourth! in gold coin, nearly as much in United-States notes, one eighth each in National-bank notes and gold certificates, and one fourth in silver certificates and silver. The United- States Mint is at Philadelphia. The amount of clearances in the New- York Clearing-House reaches nearly $38,000,000,000 a year, which exceeds the clearances of any other city in the world.: There are 3, 400 National banks, with a capital of $625,000,000, and a sur plus of $ 209 , 000 ,000. The 850 savings-banks have $1,444,000,000 in deposits, and a surplus of $150,000,000. The Life - Saving Service has 1 76 stations on the Atlantic coast, 46 on the Great Lakes, and ten on the Pacific coast. It costs $1,000,000 a year, and in 1 890 saved $5,000,000 in property, and succored 800 ship wrecked persons (only 38 having been lost). united-states life-saving service. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. W3lue. [\ B*w mmp"«> "its * fnfor, u M ?K/K »W. #/". /y///^'.p $ ft? rr/n/h' S S. rr/'nth 7<&- .„..«« The Signal Ser vice of the army was in 1870 partly formed into a meteorological bureau, to study the scientific law of storms, and predict the advance of storm- fields. It has 300 men in service, all over the Union, with headquarters at Washington. The accuracy of weather predictions increases yearly; and the department is of great benefit to commerce and agriculture alike. Education in the public schools costs $132,000,- 000 a year (three fourths for salaries), the number of enrolled students exceeding 12,000,000, with an average daily attendance of 8,000,000. There are nearly 400 accredited universities and colleges, with 2, 600 instructors and 36, 000 students, property valued at $125,000,000, and libraries containing 3,700,000 volumes. The first American college was Harvard, founded in 1638-, and still the most famous in the Republic. The College of William and Mary arose in Virginia in 1693 ; Yale College, in Connecticut, in 1700 ; and the College of New Jersey, in 1746. Newspapers number 19,400; 1,300 in New England, 3,700 m the Middle States, 10,100 in the West, 3,300 in the South, and 1,000 on the Pacific Coast. Their total yearly issues exceed 4, 000, 000, 000. More than 4,000 books are published each year. Religion numbers in the United States 150,000 churches, 100,000 clergymen, and 22,000,000 com municants. The chief denominations are the Metho dists, with 5,000,000 communicants; the Baptists, 4,300,000; the Presbyterians, 1,200,000; the Luthe rans, 1,000,000 \ and the Congregationalists and Episcopalians, about 500,000 each. The Catholic population exceeds 8,000,000; and there are 250,000 Jews. The Sunday schools number 120,000, with 1,200,000 teachers and 9,000,000 pupils. The 1,300 ¦Young Men's Christian Associations have 200,000 miembers, 1,100 general secretaries, $10,000,000 in p/roperty, and yearly outlays of nearly $.'2,000,000. Thereare 225 Young Women's OJhristian Associations, 4,000 societies of jfhe Epworth League, 150,000 King's •Daughters, and 10,000 Young People's So cieties of Christian Endeavor, with 600,- 000 members. The Freemasons have 650,000 American members; the Odd Fellows, 610,000; the Knights of Pythias, 260,000; and the Royal Arcanum, 100,000. There are 400,000 comrades of the Grand Army of the Republic. 5 r°*M. M£ ry/r/ft.v ¦&:<-. :' WASHINGTON : CHIEF SIGNAL OFFICE, AND FLAGS. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNITED-STATES NAVAL ACADEMY, ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND. THE UNITED STA TES OF AMERICA. 23 cTnair.rto'! ~~ ~Mufm fWrer Trias dtdtlrnnrp Bnlfrnf " Sarj'rrartusrn NAVAL SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES. 2 4 MT^SHIR^q^f&^fl KING'.S HANDBOOK . CV T^ff. UNITED STA TES. Immigrants to the num ber of 16,000,000 have come to the United States. The' European immigrants landing at United- States ports during the last ten years numbered , 5,246,613, besides probably 1,500,000 entering by way of Canada. They have been made up of one third Germans, one fourth Britons and Irish, one tenth each of Scandinavians and Canadians, and from four to six per cent, each of Austro-IIungarians, Russians and Italians. Minnesota and Dakota have foreign-born populations equal to one half the natives. Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Michigan, Wiscon sin and Nebraska have foreign-born people equal to more than one fourth of the natives. The South has attracted but little immigration, Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi having less than one per cent, of foreign-born inhabitants. Texas has eight per cent. The J immigration of Chinamen, other than officials, students, 5 merchants and tourists, is stringently forbidden by Con-,; gress. An act of Congress approved in 1882 forbids the landing on American shores of foreign-born convicts, luna-| tics, idiots, or persons liable to become a public charge ;| and thousands of immigrants have been sent back to Europe under this law. An act passed in 1885 forbids the landing of aliens under contract to labor here. The Public Lands of the United States in- : eluded all the vast areas outside the thirteen original, j States (except Kentucky, Tennessee and Texas). The j original area of the Union, and the Northwestern1! Territory, included about 850,000 square miles, to , which 1,850,000 were added by the Louisiana Pur- 1 chase and the Mexican cessions, 60,000 by the pur chase of Florida from Spain, 50,000 by the Gadsden j Purchase from Mexico, and 266,000 by the annexa-1 tion of Texas. Alaska was bought from Russia in 1867, for $7,200,000, but it may not be considered as a field for. colonization. Exclusive of Alaska, the pub lic lands amounted to 2,837,000 square miles. Over a (:.,¦¦¦." n r . < 7 , billion acres, including nearly all that is of value, has ^ov. „*«.*« 1.4* been sold for cash, American light-house service. or granted for schools, military bounties, swamp-land and railroad grants, and homesteads. Most of the available land has passed into the hands of individuals and corporations. The Centre of Population in the United States in 1790 was 23 miles east of Baltimore; in 1800, 18 miles west of Baltimore; in 1810, 40 miles northwest by west of Washington; in 1820, 16 miles north of Wood stock (Va.); in 1830, 19 miles southwest of Moorefield v ' NEW YORK : THE CUSTOM HOUSE. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 25 (W. Va.); in 1840, 16 miles south of Clarksburg (W. Va.); in 1850, 23 miles southeast of Parkersburg (W. Va.); in i860, 20 miles south of Chillicothe (Ohio); in 1870, 48 miles east by north of Cincinnati ; in 1880, eight miles west by south of Cincinnati ; and in 1890, 20 miles east of Colum bus, Indiana, near the vil lage of West- port. The cen tre of popula- t i o n of the United States has thus trav eled westward THE UNITED-STATES BARGE-OFFICE. from the Eastern Shore of Maryland, where it stood in Washington's administra tion, to Decatur County, in southern Indiana. During all this century of "West ward the Star of Empire - takes its Way, " the centres of population have kept within 25 miles of the 39th parallel of latitude, moving toward the Pacific Coast 505 mites, almost on a direct line. The annexation of Florida and the migration into the Southwest pulled the centre below 390 in 1830 ; and in 1890 it moved well north of the parallel, by reason of the development of the Northwest and the State of Washington, and the increase of population in New England. The Railroads of the United States have cost $9,000,000,000, and employ 1,000,000 persons. There are over 200,000 miles of track, with 31,000 locomotives, 24,000 passen ger-cars, and over 1,100,000 other cars. Their capital stock is $4,500,000,000, with funded debts of $4,800,000,000, yearly traffic earnings of $1,000,000,000 (two thirds from freight), net earnings of $3 18; 000, 000, and dividends of $80,000,000 yearly. The Ameri can telegraph 'lines extend for 250,000 miles, with 800,000 miles of wire, 26,000 offices, and 42,000 employees, mostly pertaining to the Western Union system. Manufactories in i860 numbered 140,000, using $1,000,000,000 in materials, with a yearly product of $1,900,000,000. In 1880, they numbered 254,000, using $3,400,000,000 in materials, and producing $5,370,000,000 yearly. The annual product of flouring and grist mills was $500,000,000; of slaughter-houses, $300,000,- 000; of iron and steelworks, $300,000,000; of woolens, $270,000,000; of lumber, $230,000,000; of foundry pro ducts, cotton goods, men's clothing, and boots ,, and shoes, about $200,000,000 each. Two- thirds of the manufactures are in New England and New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. The Cities are growing much faster than the country. In 1790 there were only six cities with more than 8,000 inhabitants. By 1840, these had increased to 44; in 1880, to 286 ; and in 1890, to 443. In 1790 there was no city with as many as 100,000 inhabitants; but in 1890 there were 28. Pennsylvania ; united-states mint, at Philadelphia, 26 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The progress of the United States has been rich in benefits to the world, and has been marked by the development of many illustrious men. In invention, she has produced Morse and Fulton, Edison and Whitney ; in science, Silliman and Dana ; in military science, Grant and Sherman and Sheridan ; in statesmanship, Washington and Jeffefson, Franklin and Lincoln ; and in oratory, Webster and Clay. To the romancers of the world she has given Hawthorne and Cooper and Howells ; to the poets, Longfellow and Whittier, Holmes and Bryant ; to the historians, the Bancrofts and Parkman, Prescott and Motley ; to the essayists, Lowell and Emerson ; and to the masters of literary style, Washington Irving. The Union of States still nobly advances, marvellous in her potentialities, and at peace with all the world. And within her forgetful States have nobly their old-time Revolution- who said : "The distinc- Pennsylvanians, New- landers, are no more. I American." And now, full truth in Jefferson's the Union is in the heart- In its perilous phases sec- and remains now mainly as stead pride. Gen. Sherman should be proud of his of a part. Therefore, I men of the South will culti- own borders, the sometime returned to the doctrine of ary hero, Patrick Henry, tions between Virginians, Yorkers, and New-Eng- am not a Virginian, but an more than ever, there is words: "The cement of blood of every American." tionalism has passed away, " proper local and home- wrote : ' ' Every American . whole country, rather than j hope and pray that the new ¦ vate a pride in the whole \ How much more sublime United States of America, instead of the mere State of birth. the thought that you live at the root of a tree whose branches reach the beautiful fields of western New York and the majestic canons of the Yellowstone, and that with every draught of water you take the outflow of the pure lakes of Minnesota and drippings of the dews of the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains. " Millions of Americans are growing into this broader Nationalism, the spirit of Philip Nolan, as he said to the young naval ensign : "Remember boy, that behind all these men you have to do with, behind officers and Government and people, even, there is the .Country Herself, your Country, and that you belong to Her as you belong to your own mother." ACKNOWLEDGMENT. — In his effort to make this Handbook of the United States a >' portrayal of the chief traits of the Great Republic, historic, scenic, economic, and industrial, the author has been put under many obligations. It was not enough that the description of each State should be illustrated by scores of pictures and explained bv a new map engraved for the purpose. Multitudes of facts, accounts, descriptions and statistics had to be collected front all sources. In the two years devoted to this search the author has received the kindest assistance from the public officials, both State and National. They have not only furnished hundreds of volumes of the latest official reports, but have in many instances written out special mom- graphs to be used in the Handbook. Citizens prominent in public life and in literature,, without even the slight claim upon their attention that an official position might give, have ' revised the manuscript and enriched it by their suggestions. To statesmen like Sherman of Ohio, Dolph of Oregon, Stewart of Nevada, Hampton of South Carolina, Bayard of Dela- ' ware, Miller of Iowa, Ingalls of Kansas, Prince of New Mexico, Fitzhugh Lee of Virginia, — and to men of letters, like Angell of Michigan, Cable of Louisiana, Petroff of Alaska, Mitchell of Connecticut, Thwaites of Wisconsin, Goodell of Massachusetts, and Bancroft of California, no thanks adequate to the services they have rendered can be given. While to the author and the publishers belong the responsibility for the short-comings of the book, a great part of its merits is due to the generous assistance of these and many other distinguished Americans. . 5TATtr-HdLi5Cy*\Q"Nr&5nciooo,coo Farm Products (yearly) $57,000,000 School Children, enrolled, 259,432 Newspapers, . ... 180 Latitude, 3o°i3' to 350 N Longitude, 7°5i/ to io°38' W. Temperature, . . . 5° t° I07° Mean Temperature (Mobile), 66° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. Mobile (census of 1890). . . 31,076 Birmingham, " . 26,176 Montgomery, " . 21,883 Anniston, " 9.876 Selma (unofficial), . 8,ooo Huntsville, " 8,000 Florence, '' 6,000 Pratt Mine, " 6,000 Gadsden, '' 5.5oo Bessemer, " . 5,000 28 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. north belonged to the district of Illinois. Montgomery lay in Florida, and Wetumpka in Illinois. The people here were so few, and so remote from the Atlantic settlements, that they did not unite with the Thirteen Colonies in their conflict with England. Envoys and agitators sent from the United States were seized and imprisoned in the stone keep of Fort Charlotte. When Spain declared war against the mother-country, Galvez, the governor of Louisiana, with 2,000 soldiers, besieged and captured Mobile, even then a French town. The Spaniards held the country until 1798, as a part of Florida. Georgia also claimed nearly all of Alabama and Mississippi, under her royal charter of 1665, and in 1798 and 1802 ceded them to the United States for $1,250,000. About 1 790, American pioneers began to settle in the northern valleys. In 1798, Congress formed Mississippi and Alabama, from 310 to 320 28', and between the Mississippi River and the Chattahoochee, into the Mississippi Territory ; and four years later, the Territorial boundary was carried north to the Tennessee line. The Indians ceded vast domains to the incoming Ameri cans, by the treaties of 1805 ; but Tecumseh aroused the Creeks to war, and in 1813 they destroyed Fort Mimms, with its 500 inmates. Gen. Coffee retaliated by killing 186 Indians in battle at Tallaseehatchee ; Andrew Jackson won the fight atTalladega ; Gen. White destroyed Hillabee ; and after many other engagements, Jackson slew 600 Montgomery: soldiers' Creeks at the Horse-Shoe Bend, losing 210 men himself. In the monument. ^o engagements of the Creek war 4,000 Indians were killed. The Spanish power at Mobile was broken by Gen. Wilkinson's army from New Orleans, _ in 1813 ; and a British attack on Fort Bowyer, at Mobile Point, met a disastrous repulse, fol lowed by Jackson's capture of Pensacola. In 181 7, Congress organized the Territory of Alabama, with its present boundaries, and St. Stephens as the capital. Two years later, Alabama became a State, then having about 127, 000 inhabitants, besides the Indians. Cahaba became the capital in 1820 ; Tuskaloosa, in 1826 ; and Montgomery in 1847. After frequent Indian wars, mainly with the Creeks, the tribes were removed to the Indian Territory, the Choctaws in 1830, the Chickasaws in 1834, the Cherokees in 1836, and the Creeks in 1837. The population in i860 included 526,271 whites, 435,080 negro slaves (owned by 30,000 persons) and 2,690 free negroes. Alabama was then the fifth State in the value of its agri cultural products, and the seventh in wealth. Its valuation sunk from $792,000,000 in i860 to $202,000,000 in 1865 (partly due to the emancipation of the slaves). Late in i860 the National forts at Mobile were occupied by Alabama troops ; and in January, 1861, by a vote of 61 to 39, the State seceded from the Union. In the mourn ful conflict which followed, she sent into the field 122,000 soldiers (in 69 regiments of infantry, 12 of cavalry, and 27 batteries), one fourth of whom died in the Confederate service. The northern counties long remained loyal to the Republic, and desired to erect themselves into a new State. The chief local events were Forrest's capture of Streight's 1,700 Union cavalry, in Cherokee County ; Rousseau's great raid through the south ern counties ; and Farragut's magnificent attack on Mobile, resulting in the capture of Forts Morgan and Gaines, and followed by the reduction of Spanish Fort, the storming of Blakely and the occupation of Mobile (in April, 1865), by Gen. Canby's Union army of 45 000 men' after much hard fighting. At the same time, Gen. Wilson, with 9, 000 mounted troops from the north, stormed Selma, destroying the Arsenal and Navy Yard, and occupied Montgomery. Several thousand white Alabamians served bravely in the National armies THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 29 THE ALABAMA RIVER. The re-establishment of the National power was followed by unhappy years of carpet-bag adminis tration, when the treasury of the State suffered from venal legislation, and her standard eight per cent, bonds fell to 20 cents on the dollar. Emerging at last from this cloud, Alabama has re sumed her place as one of the most conservative of the Southern States, with a strong and capable "white man's government." Within ten years a wonderful and unexampled development of mineral wealth has gone forward, in the northern part of the State, which is already entering into competition with Pennsylvania as a producer of coal and iron. The output of pig-iron alone mounted from 449,492 tons in 1888 to 791,425 in 1889, and is still increasing, and building up new cities. The Name of Alabama comes from its chief river, the word being of Indian origin and unknown meaning. There is a poetic legend that an exiled Indian tribe reached the great river, and its chief struck his spear into the shore exclaiming, Alabama! — that is to say : " Here we rest. " Fragments of the Alabama tribe now live in Texas and Louisiana. Alabama is sometimes called The Cotton -Planta- . tion State. The Arms of Alabama bear an eagle, with raised wings, alighting upon the National shield, and bear ing three arrows in his left talon. He holds in his beak a floating streamer, inscribed with the words HERE WE REST. This nobly patriotic device was adopted in 1868, to replace the older seal, a rude out line map of Alabama fastened to a tree. The Governors of Alabama have been William WyattBibb, 1817-20; Thomas Bibb, 1820-21 ; Israel Pickens, 1821-25; John Murphy, 1825-9; Samuel B. Moore, 1829-31 ; John Gayle, 1831-5; Clement Comer Clay, 1835-7; Hugh McVay, 1837; Arthur Pendleton Bagby, 1837-41; Benjamin Fitzpatrick, 1841-5; Reuben Chap man, 1847-9; Henry Watkins Collier, 1849-53; John Anthony Winston, 1853-7; Andrew Barry Moore, 1857-61 ; John Gill Shorter, 186 1 -3; Thomas Hill Watts, 1863-5; Lewis Eliphalet Parsons, 1865 (provisional); Robert Miller Patton, 1865-8; William Henry Smith, 1868-70; Robert Burns Lindsay, 1870 ; David C. Lewis, 1872-4; George Smith Houston, 1874-8; RufusW. Cobb, 1878-82; Edward Asbury O'Neal, 1 882-6 ; Thomas Seay, 1886-90; and Thos. G. Jones, 1890-2. Descriptive. — Alabama is from 150 to 202 miles wide, between Georgia and Missis sippi, and from 278 to 336 miles long, between Tennessee and Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. It is larger tha.n New York or Pennsylvania, Virginia or England. The northeast contains the declining Alleghany ridges, melting away toward the south into a broken hill-country, and then into extensive plains, which for 60 miles inland are almost on the sea-level. There are four great divisions of the State — the cereal, mineral, cotton, and timber regions. The beauti ful Tennessee Valley, in the temperate and health ful north, is a rich agricultural country, rising toward the east into the long blue highlands of the Raccoon and Lookout ranges. The Alabama section of the valley is 200 miles long and 20 MOBILE : THE SHELL ROAD. 3° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ^' MOBILE : GOVERNMENT STREET. miles wide, covering eight counties, with 180,000 inhabitants. This is the Cereal Belt, its fertile red lands producing grains and grasses, cotton and fruits, with noble mountain-walls sheltering it alike from the icy northern winds and the intense heats of the southern plains, and traversed by rteh lateral valleys, abounding in farms. The Mountain and Mineral Region covers the northeast, and the Alleghany Mountains, which open out across all north-central Alabama, with 5,500 square miles of rich coal-meas ures, and vast deposits of iron-ore and limestone. It in cludes 28 counties, with 400,000 inhabitants. The Agricultural Region, 70 miles wide, clear across the State, comes next, between 330 and 31° 40', in the rot- .. ten limestone formation, scarce of water, but on the west occupied by fertile bald prairie and wooded prairie. This is the celebrated Black Belt, or Cane-Brake Region, where the negroes greatly predominate in numbers, raising vast quantities of cotton from the richest of lands. It in cludes 17 counties, with over 500,000 inhabitants. The Piney- Woods Region extends from the Black Belt to the Gulf, more than a hundred miles wide, abounding in long-leaf and yel low pine, and low and miasmatic along the rivers and coast, but elsewhere undulating, with a sandy soil. The summers are long, but tempered by the Gulf breezes, and vary between 730 and 940. Here grow the magnolia and the sweet-bay, gigantic water-oaks and live-oaks, black gums and venerable cypresses. Turpentine and rosin are valued pro ducts ; and vast quantities of lumber are shipped thence. The land is very cheap ; and the exporting of naval stores is facilitated by the navigable bays and entrances along the coast. The Gulf coast of Alabama, only 50 miles long, is broken by Mobile Bay, entering the land for 30 miles, and navigable ' by an artificial channel for vessels drawing 19 feet of water. The deep and broad Mobile River, 50 miles long, enters the bay at its head. It is formed by the powerful Alabama (312 miles long, and from 600 to 800 feet broad), and the Tombigbee (navigable for 393 miles, to Fulton). The Black Warrior (300 miles long) is navigable from Tuskaloosa to its union with the Tombigbee, at Demopolis. The Coosa is 355 miles long, navigable for its lower ten miles, up to the falls at Wetumpka, above which there are 145 miles of rapids and rough waters. At Greensport begins another navigable reach, 180 miles long, to Rome, furnishing trade for six steamboats. The Talla poosa is a picturesque stream 225 miles long, without commerce, on account of its rapid waters. The Chattahoochee may be ascended for 350 miles, to Columbus. The noble Ten nessee River, heading southward from Virginia toward the Gulf, is repelled by the rocky bar riers of northern Alabama, and sweeps around toward the north, with 250 miles of its course ; within this State, navigable by steamboats from Decatur to Knoxville, and from Florence to the Ohio River. The rocky Muscle Shoals long prevented the passage of steamboats between Decatur and Florence (38 miles). The Government has spent $4,000,000 in building a canal around the Shoals, and in 1889 the first steam boat traversed this avenue of commerce. The Climate of Alabama shows a mean yearly temperature of 65. 2° (and 53^ inches of rainfall) at Mont gomery, and 66. 70 (and 64^ inches of rainfall) at Mobile. The variations are from 820 to 180 Fahrenheit in winter, and from 1050 to 6o° in summer. This is the temperature of Sydney, Valparaiso and Algiers. The autumn and winter winds MOBILE : COTTON EXCHANGE. GREENSBORO: SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 31 are from the northeast and northwest ; the summer winds from the southeast. The pic turesque hill-country is cool and healthy, with a genial and temperate climate. The lowland counties sometimes suffer from summer heat, and from malaria along the Gulf and rivers, and intermittent and congestive fevers. Snow is seldom seen, and the rivers never freeze over! Agriculture employs 400,000 Alabamians, on 140,000 farms, with $80,000,000 worth of land and buildings, $4,000,000 in machinery, and $25,000,000 in live stock, the yearly-pro ducts being valued at $57,000,000. The latter include 700,000 bales of cotton, 450,000 pounds of tobacco, 810,000 pounds of rice, 40,000,000 bushels of cereals (mainly corn and oats) and 52,000 tons of hay. Cotton, the great staple of Alabama, grows mainly in the Black Belt and the Tennessee and Coosa valleys. Mississippi, Georgia, and Texas alone surpass Alabama in this product. There are 114,000 horses, 121,000 mules, 800,000 cattle, 350,000 sheep, and 1,400,000 swine. The dairy products are 8,000,000 pounds ofbutterand 270,000 gallons of milk. During the decade of the Secession War, over 1,000,000 acres of Alabama farms relapsed into the wil derness, and the live-stock and farm- products were reduced by one-half. The totals of production in i860 have never been reached since. The de cadence of Ala- —-«¦»=•-.-- ¦_ '¦"":._:-- "r:--" --«£3H cultural State is at tributed by Dr. Hil- gard to the exhaus tion of her soil by improvident culture, and by Col. Milner to the dearth of labor, caused by the indolence of the negroes, now no longer compelled to work. Latterly, improved methods are being adopted, with increased willingness to labor and intelligence in adaptation. Supplies are produced at home, crops are diversified, and increased attention is paid to stock-raising and grasses. The soil is rich and productive, except in the south, much of which is sandy, and occupied by noble pine woods. In the north and centre are large forests of oaks, pines, hickories, poplars, chest nuts, cedars, mulberries, elms and cypresses. There are 30,000,000 acres of public lands, the land-office being at Montgomery. Along the borders of Alabama and Mississippi, from Aberdeen to the Gulf, extends a belt of 850, 000 acres of land, traversed and owned by the Mobile & Ohio Railroad, and controlled by the Alabama Land and Development Company, of Mobile. Parts of this imperial domain lie in the prairie and flat-woods belts, but most of its Alabama section is in the long-leaf- pine belt of Washington and Mobile counties, a region of sandy loam, cultivated with extra ordinary ease, and already largely devoted to truck and fruit farms. The National Government, through the States of Alabama and Mississippi, granted these lands to the railway, which sells them at from $1.50 to $15 an acre, with long credits. Large areas have already been thus disposed of ^n Washington County, the oldest county in the State, and the seat of St. Stephens, its first capital ; and other tracts have been taken up near Mobile, on the west. The genial climate renders it possible to raise several crops yearly, with level and shallow cultivation, and skillful fertilizing. ¦I"1 LANDS OF THE ALABAMA LAND AND DEVELOPMENT CO. 32 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SPRING-HILL COLLEGE, NEAR MOBILE. In this beautiful and highly diversified Commonwealth there is almost every variety of scenery, climate and product. Thus immigrants and investors find interest in Escambia's great forests of yellow-heart pine ; Blount's deep caverns and famous apple-orchards ; the gray prairies of Bullock and Butler ; the ham mocks of Conecuh ; the Tytolese scenery of Etowah and Marshall; the alluvial cane-brake region of Marengo ; the corn-lands of Mont gomery and Wilcox ; the coal-fields of Walker and Jefferson ; the gold mines of Talladega ; and many other features of the mountain and plain counties. The Minerals of Alabama are of great in terest, and their development seems likely to change the State from an agricultural region to a manufacturing and mining country of almost limitless resources. The Black-Warrior, Coosa and Cahaba coal-fields and iron-beds are capable of enormous development. The iron ore in sight is of an incalculable amount, the Red-Mountain vein alone being 30 feet thick, half a mile wide and 100 miles long. The close proximity of inexhaustible supplies of bituminous coal makes this region, with its genial climate and rich agricultural valleys, the cheapest place in the world to manufacture iron. Within 1 5 years the output of pig-iron in Alabama has increased twenty-fold, and the State now ranks next to Pennsylvania and Ohio. The strata are from six to 150 feet deep, and include red hematite and brown ores. There are 50 blast-furnaces in op eration, producing yearly 1,000,000 tons of pig-iron. The coal yield has risen to 340, 000 tons. Among other mineral products are granite, white and colored marble in great quanti ties and variety (near Talladega), flagstones, roofing-slate, lime, soap- stone, asbestos, porcelain-clay, ochre, and manganese. Gold, copper, graphite, lead and corundum are also found. The State con tains many mineral waters, such as the Blount, Shelby, Bladon, Talladega, Jackson, White Sulphur and St. Clair Springs, all of which are sulphurous. There are also chalybeate and saline springs. At these points stand hotels for health-seekers, open all the year, and much visited by the aristocracy of the Gulf cities. Bladon Springs are in- the Piney Woods, four miles from the Alabama River, with carbonated alkaline water ; Blount Springs, in a trian gular valley, 1, 580 feet above the sea ; and Bailey Springs, on the highlands near the Muscle Shoals, nine miles from Florence. The Hotel Monte Sano, near Huntsville, and 1,691 feet above the sea, has valuable iron and alum waters, with beautiful scenery and invigorating air. The Hygeia Hotel is a sanitarium at Citronelle, 30 miles north of Mobile, in the pine- woods ; and Spring Hill, overlooking Mobile and the bay, has a similar institution, together with many delightful villas. Anniston, Verbena and Mountain Creek are popular vaca tion-resorts in the hill-country; and many health-seekers visit Evergreen, in the great pine-woods. The foremost of the salt-water pleasure-resorts is Point Clear, near the blue waters of Mobile Bay. Government. — The governor is elected for two years, the president of the Senate succeeding in 'case of removal. The secretary of State, treasurer, auditor, attorney-general, commissioner of agriculture, and superintendent of public instruction also hold for two years. The General Assembly, composed of 33 senators and 100 representatives (126 Democrats EAST LAKE : HOWARD COLLEGE. MOBILE : HIGH SCHOOL. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 33 BIRMINGHAM : UNION DEPOT. and seven others), has biennial sessions, of not more than 50 days. The civil divisions of the counties are called "beats" or precincts, instead of townships or parishes. The judiciary includes the Supreme Court, with four justices ; the ten districts of the circuit courts, with judges elected by the people for six years ; the five chancellors of the courts of chancery in equity cases (established in 1839), and the probate courts. There are United-States District Courts at Birmingham, Montgomery and Mobile.. The Capi tol, at Montgomery, is a substantial building with a many-columned Grecian portico, and a high dome. It stands on Capitol Hill, at the head of Dexter Avenue, and dates from 1849. Here the Confederate Govern ment was organized, February 6, 1 86 1, and the Con federate Congress held its earlier sessions. The Alabama State Troops have shown great efficiency at different times, when called out to support the civil authorities. They are armed with Springfield breech-loaders, the artillery including Gatlings, Napoleons and three-inch rifles. The First Regiment, has its headquarters at Mobile ; the Second, at Birmingham ; and the Third at Selma. There are four batteries and two troops attached to the regiments. Mobile and Montgomery have colored companies. The State Troops hold regiment- ^ al encamp ments, for a. week in summer, and are inspected by United-States army officers. Charities and Corrections. — The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, at Talladega, was opened in i860, and has 53 inmates (whites). The Alabama Academy for the Blind, formerly united with the above-named, became independent in 1887. It has 30 pupils (whites). The State Insane Asylum was opened at Tuskaloosa, in 1 861, and has 340 inmates. The State Penitentiary at Wetumpka dates from 1841. The county convicts are farmed out to contractors, and kept in private prisons and convict-camps, where they formerly suffered incalcula bly from cruel punishments, vermin and sickness, until, in many cases, death set them free. Recently, marked improvement has been made in this system. The Rev. F. H. Wines of Illinois pronounces Alabama's to be the best example of the lease system in the Union. The majority of the able-bodied convicts work in the mines near Birmingham. The report of the State health officers for 1889 showed a mortality of 20 per cent, in the Coalburg prison- camp. Alabama has 1,500 insane persons, 2,200 idiots, 1,400 blind, 700 deaf-mutes, 700 paupers, and 1,400 prisoners. National Institutions. — The Mount- Vernon Barracks occupy » high plateau 28 miles , north of Mobile, with their massive buildings amid oak and magnolia groves, surrounded by heavy brick walls. This is one of the handsomest posts of the army; and dates from 1829, when Andrew" Jackson ordered an arsenal to be established here, on the site of one of his favorite camp-grounds. In 1873 it was trans formed into a barrack, now occupied by part of the 4th United-States Artillery. In 1889-91 Geronimo, Nana, Loco, and 380 other Arizona Apaches, prisoners of war, were quartered here, under active religious and educational influences. The United-States Marine Hospital is at Mobile. Montgomery : Colored schools. jrort Morgan, 30 miles south of Mobile, was founded in 1819, on the site of Fort Bowyer, and cost $1,250,000. Fort Gaines is a pen tagonal work on Dauphin Island, three miles from Fort Morgan, across the channel. Neither BIRMINGHAM I COURT-HOUSE. 34 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. huntsville : THE post-office. of these works is garrisoned. The lighthouses are on Sand Island, Mobile Point (Fort Mor gan), Dog-River Bar, Choctaw Pass and Battery Gladden. Education, in its higher forms, began with Greene Academy, at Huntsville, in 1812. A good public-school system was inaugurated in 1854, but the war and reconstruction crippled it seriously. The normal schools have all been founded since 1872, and contain 1,200 stu dents. The normal schools for whites are at Florence, Jacksonville, Livingston and Troy. In 1880, Alabama, out of a population of 1,262,505, had 433.447 persons above the age of ten who could not write. This appalling army of illiterates is mainly composed of negroes : and rustics ; K and the local educators are making earnest efforts to secure more and better means to reduce the prevailing ignorance. Ala bama has a school population of 485,551, with an aver age daily attendance of 1 62, 5 1 6. The school age is from 7 to 21 ; the average duration of the school year, 155 days in the cities, and 70 days in the country ; the yearly expense, $750,000. The Teachers' Reading Circle, the Colored Teachers' Association, the State Teachers' As sociation (white), the Congressional (District) Teachers' Institutes, and other active agencies are achieving a good work in raising the educational standard. The University of Alabama occupies an estate of 500 acres, at Tuskaloosa, with 18 pro fessors and 240 students. It was opened in 1831, and has an endowment of $300,000, from lands granted by Congress in 1802, and held in trust by the State, which pays eight per cent. a year. The National troops burned the building, in 1865 ; and there are now four new edi fices, enclosing a quadrangle, with Clark Hall, containing the great hall and the library (of 9,000 volumes). The three courses are classical, scientific, and civil engineering, with a law department containing 19 pupils. Military training is a prominent feature. The State Agri cultural and Mechanical College, at Auburn, in the Cereal Belt, arose in 1872, as one of the National land-grant schools of science ; and has 1 2 instructors and 250 pupils. The Southern University, at Greensboro, pertains to the M. E. Church South, and has 12 instructors and 220 students. Before the war it was a rich institution, and it is now slowly regaining its former dignity. Howard College is a Baptist institution, founded in 1842, at Marion, and since 1887 located at East Lake, five miles from Birmingham, in the Ruhama Valley. Spring-Hill Col lege is a Catholic institution near Mobile, opened in 1830, and with 100 students. The Medical College of Alabama was founded in 1859, at Mobile, and has 12 instructors and 100 students. There are 35 academies, with 6,000 students, including the colleges for women at Anniston, Tuskaloosa, Tuskegee, Huntsville, Tuscum- bia, Athens, Eufaula, Florence and Talladega. The colored people of Alabama have four normal schools, those at Huntsville and Mobile being older than the white normal schools. The State Normal and In dustrial School was founded in 1881, as an outgrowth of the Hampton (Va. ) school, and has been very suc cessfully conducted by Booker T. Washington, an emi nent colored educator. Its corn-fields, orchards, work shops and buildings occupy an old plantation near the patrician town of Tuskegee, in the Black Belt. The State makes a yearly appropriation, paying part of the expenses of this school, which has 430 earnest and industrious students. Talladega College was founded by the American Missionary Association in 1867, and has several buildings, and large tracts of farm-lands. There are 427 colored students, none, pf them collegiate. The theological school for Congregational ministers is at Talladega -; that for Baptists is at Selma University ; and the Presbyterians conduct an institute for training colored ministers, at Tuskaloosa. huntsville : county court-house. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 35 BIRMINGHAM : SL0SS IRON * STEEL CO. The State has 3,000 Sunday schools, with 20,000 teachers and 160,000 pupils. The religious pro clivities of the people incline toward the Methodist and Baptist sects, the first having above 200,000 members, and the second 175,000. There are 12,000 Presbyterians, and 4,000 Episcopalians. Newspapers came to Alabama in 1812, when Pasham started the Madison Gazette at Huntsville. St. Stephens followed with The Halcyon, in 1814 ; Mobile with The Gazette, in 1816 ; and Tuskaloosa with The Republican, in 1 8 1 8. The Florence Ga zette, Montgomery Republican and Claiborne Clarion appeared in 1820. Alabama now has 169 newspapers (15 daily, 144 weekly, and 8 monthly), with an average circulation of 681 copies. Prominent among these are the Mobile Register (founded in 1820), Montgomery A dvertiser (1S2S), Selma Times-Mail (1825), and Birming ham Age-Herald. The Chief Cities of Alabama (except Mobile) are modern, and some of them have risen with marvelous rapidity in the last 15 years. Mobile, successively French, English, Span ish and American, and the commercial metropolis of Alabama, is one of the chief cotton- depots in the Union, and sends away 230,000 bales yearly, mainly by railway. There is also a large trade in lumber and timber, general merchandise and coffee, coal and naval stores, besides many profitable manufactures. The broad and quiet streets are shaded throughout with live-oaks and magnolias, and the gardens are fragrant with the perfumes of the jessamine and the orange. Gov ernment Street has many beautiful and embowered residences ; and the Shell Road is a famous harbor- side drive. The city enjoys extensive railway con nections, and has steamship lines to New York and Liverpool. Montgomery, near the centre of the State, is a growing city, with artesian water, street-cars, and electric lights, a prosperous rail way centre, and a winter resort for Northerners, who enjoy its soft air and embowered streets. It is one of the old-time Southern cities, with an environment of large-pillared country seats, nestling in live-oak groves, and a State Capitol overlooking a great expanse of country, through which flashes the silvery line of the Alabama River. Since 1865, the population has quintupled, and many factories have sprung up. One hundred and thirty thousand bales of cotton are handled here yearly. Birmingham, the foremost city of Alabama, is in Jones Valley, six miles from Red Moun tain, which contains millions of tons of hematite iron ore, close to inexhaustible supplies of coal and limestone. Founded in 1 871, by the Ely- ton Land Co., it has become "the Magic City of the South," with the largest rolling mills below Rich mond, manufacturing rail and bar iron, plate and sheet iron, and factories for making ice, glass, stoves, bridges, chains, steel cars, and many other articles. It is recorded that Krupp, the Iron King of Europe, said : ' ' Should fate drive me from Germany, I would go to Birmingham, Alabama ; " and the London Times prophesied that this is to bound to become anniston : st. michael'S and all angels. the greatest metal-workers' city in America. The BIRMINGHAM : SLOSS IRON & STEEL CO. 36 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BIRMINGHAM JOSIAH MORRIS BLOCK. contiguity of the iron and coal makes it possible to produce the metal at the lowest possibly cost for labor ; and the convergence here of six railways gives unusual facilities for shipment. "^ Twenty-five furnaces are now at work in and near this city, giving cheap iron to the world. One of the pioneers in the astonishing development of Ala bama's mining industries was the Sloss Furnace Company of Birmingham, which afterwards bought the Coalburg Coal and Coke Company, and formed the Sloss Iron and Steel Com pany. This vigorous corporation has a paid-in capital of $3,700,000, and employs 3,500 men, with large mines, 800 coke-ovens, and four furnaces, adequate to the production of 450 tons of pig-iron daily. Here the world's problem of cheap iron is being solved, where the ore of Red Mountain, that mineral marvel of America, is manufactured into the best quality of metal, capable, with proper treatment, of suc cessful competition with the finest Russian and Norway iron. At Birmingham, too, is the Morris Block, erected and owned by Josiah Morris, the millionaire banker of Montgom ery, who was one of the earliest investors in the present city, and by whose aid the enterprise was carried through some of its earlier trials. This is one of the finest and costliest office buildings in the South, an architectural credit to the city, and thoroughly fire-proof. It is occupied by banks and for of fices of many kinds. Its up- Der floors have been utilized as the Morris Hotel, on the European plan, the rooms be ing the choicest in the city. Anniston, one of the love liest cities of the South, and also one of the most remark able centres of the iron indus try in the country, rests on a healthy and pleasant plateau of northeastern Alabama, 900 feet above the sea, amid the picturesque wooded spurs of the Blue Ridge. Here the Georgia Pacific and the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroads intersect ; and the Alabama Mineral Railroad runs northwest to the Queen & Crescent sys tem at Attalla, and southwest to the Georgia Central system, at Sylacauga. Anniston is built upon and surrounded by enormous beds of brown hematite ore, easily accessible and cheaply mined, low in silica and phosphorus, and containing above 50 per cent, of metallic iron. The first-class coking coals of the Coosa and Cahaba mines are respectively within 25 and 45 miles ; and the Anniston valley abounds in limestone for fluxing. Seven char coal furnaces make yearly 50,000 tons of tough car- wheel iron ; and two coke furnaces make 100,000 tons of pig-iron. On this site a furnace was built and destroyed during the Civil War. Samuel No ble, a practical English iron-worker, then running a foundry at Rome, Georgia, visited the ruins about the year 1870, and becoming impressed with the enormous deposits of excellent brown iron ore, bought up large areas, upon which the Woodstock Iron Company started its first furnace in 1873, and anniston : noble institute for boys. a second in 1 879. Associated with Mr. Noble in ANNISTON : THE ANNISTON INN. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 37 ANNISTON I GRACE CHURCH ,the foundation of the city were Gen. Daniel Tyler and Alfred L. Tyler ; and the new settle ment received the name of Annie's Town (contracted to Anniston),1 from the Christian name of Mrs. Alfred L. Tyler. Until 1883 the great domains of the Woodstock Company were withheld from public sale, and during that period the corporation built streets and parks and laid out a model city, at great cost. Then they began to sell buildinglots, and. the city flashed into life, with a host of manufacturing industries, making iron, steel, stoves, horse-shoes, furniture, brick, ice, and many other articles, mainly dependent on the molten ore of the furnaces. In 1887 the land interest of the Woodstock Company, was sold to the Anniston City Land Company, which now owns nearly $5,000,000 worth of property, including 2,700 acres in the city, the Inn, and many dwellings. The country about Anniston is very fertile, especially along the Choccolocco and Alexandria Valleys, and among its other products the city receives 60,000 bales of cotton 1 yearly. Under these favorable circumstances, Anniston has constructed a capital cotton com press, and one of the largest cotton-mills in the South. The Anniston Inn is a handsome Queen- Anne building, with broad verandas and a richly decorated interior, standing on an emi nence near the centre of the city, and commanding fine views of the mountains. Anniston has 25 churches, the chief of which is the great stone-and marble edifice of St. Michael's and All Angels, crowning a beautiful hill that overlooks the city and its mountain-guards. This noble ecclesiastical structure was built in 1889-90, by John W. Noble, as a memorial of his father, James Noble, and his brother, Samuel E. Noble, one of the founders of the city. Noble Institute for Boys and Noble Institute for Girls were established by Samuel E. Noble, in recognition of the fact that in this beautiful new city of mountains the best educational facilities should be made ready for the young people. The two institutes are of a high grade, with first-class faculties, abundant laboratory and other facilities, and carefully planned courses in the classics, lan guages, science, art and music. The buildings are handsome and elaborate architectural works, in pressed brick and stone, and provided with all modern improvements and conveniences. The United-States Rolling Stock Company, one of the greatest manufacturing corpora tions of the kind in the world, has re cently invested upwards of $I,O0O, - 000 in their new works in Alabama, and employ 1,200 men. They have immense establishments at Anniston and Decatur, with the largest ma chine-shops in the South, and several buildings filled with the very best •machinery used in the manufacture of cars. The unrivalled Woodstock . 0E0ATUn : ""'ted-states rolling stock company. charcoal iron is made up in great quantities into car- wheels and axles, supplying the extensive local' demand, and also the company's works in Illinois. The Alabama part of their opera- anniston : united-states rolling stock company. ANNISTON : THE ANNISTON PIPE WORKS. 38 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. tions is adequate to the production of 25 freight cars a day, and also turns out many hand- some and well-built passenger-cars, mainly for the Southern railroads. The Anniston Pipe Works, chartered July 20, 1889, has a paid-in capital of $300,000, and an enormous new plant, the largest kindred plant in the South, erected at a cost of $450,000, and employing 500 men. Its capacity is 200 tons of cast-iron gas-pipe and water-main daily ; and a large part of the Southern States, and many Northern cities, receive their supplies from these ever-busy works. Favored by the high est and finest grades of iron, Anniston can make and deliver pipe at a rate competing fairly with the older companies of the Northern cities, and thus she has built up a notable and prosperous business in this specialty. The Annis ton Pipe Works is a model plant. Its president is Samuel E. Noble, to whose earnest and enlightened direction so much of the prosperity and beauty of Anniston is due. The development of the wonder ful mineral- resources of the State has been aided by the Geological Survey, which has been in progress since 1873, under the direction of the State Geologist, Dr. Eugene A. Smith, of the University of Ala bama. Reports have been pre pared almost yearly, and the survey has prepared an elaborate museum of minerals for the University. This is one of the benefits accruing to the State from itsS great educational institution, whose teachings are made general and popular by the appoint ment of three free students from each county. Many of the leading men of Alabama were educated at the University. The intelligent development of the material wealth of the hills has caused the active and growing city of Bessemer to grow up on the lone fields of an Alleghany glen. A solitary log-hut stood here at the middle period of President Cleveland's admin istration, where now the spires and factory-chimneys of an indus trial metropolis are outlined against the deep green of the mountains. Bessemer was founded in 1887, and within three years arose to the position of an important manufacturing city and railway Bessemer : office of the besse- centre, with seven furnaces in full blast, large rolling mills and MER LAND AND IMPR0VEMENT co- cast-iron pipe- works (capacity 350 tons daily), fire-brick works, and many smaller industries, besides handsome public buildings and business blocks, eight churches, and two news papers. The reason for this extraordinary de velopment is found in the existence here of a long mountain-range of iron, occurring in veins from five to 20 feet thick, and containing billions of tons of ore, under conditions of surprising economy for development. The ore can be mined and delivered at the furnaces for 55 cents a ton. Within 25 miles there are 600,000 acres of coal fields, estimated to contain 30 billion tons, and de bardeleben coal and iron company, yielding 62J per cent, in coke. The great mines tuskaloosa : university of Alabama. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 39 BESSEMER : MONTE ZUMA H0TE1 BESSEMER : THE CHARLESTON BLOCK. on this belt deliver coal in Bessemer at 80 cents a ton. The purest Trenton limestone abounds in Jones Valley, and is delivered in the city at 60 cents a ton. With these notable advantages, iron is manufactured here at a minimum of cost, and competes with the cheap iron of England. The city stands 600 feet above the sea, in the beautiful amphitheatre of Jones Valley, between Red Mountain and Rock Mountain, 13 miles below Birming ham. It gathers nine railways into its arms, and confidently looks for a great future development in general manufacturing and as a trade-cen tre. The founder and chief owner of this iron city of North Alabama is the Bes semer Land and Improvement Company, which is conducted with an enterprise and sagacity that make it certain that in the course of a few years Bessemer will fairly rival all of its older neighbors. The De Bardeleben Coal and Iron Company, Consolidated, is the great mainspring of the life of Bessemer, and owns seven new and fully equipped blast-furnaces, with a daily capac ity of 800 tons ; seven iron-mines, yielding 4,000 tons daily ; seven coal-mines, with a daily capacity of 5,000 tons; 900 coke ovens; 25 miles of standard-gauge railway ; immense lime stone quarries ; and numerous other valuable prop erties. In 1 889 the De Bardeleben Company con solidated with the Bessemer Iron and Steel Company and other corporations owning vast areas of coal and iron lands, and formed a new company, with $10,000,000 capital, and employing 2,000 men. The mineral lands cover 140,000 acres, and the yearly output of the furnaces is 250,000 tons of pig- iron, worth $4,000,000. Sheffield is another of the interesting new cities of northwestern Alabama, with its fortunes securely based on the manufacture of iron. It was founded in 1885, on a bold bluff midway between Tuscumbia and Florence, and fronting on the broad and deep Tennessee River. Unlimited supplies of fine brown iron-ore and the best of coking coal are available within 20 miles, and have resulted in the erection here of five blast-furnaces, with a capacity of 700 tons of pig-iron daily. The ores are of remark able excellence, requiring only a pound of coke to make a pound of metal, and producing but little slag. A great advantage enjoyed by this "Iron City on the Tennessee River" is in the low price of freights by water, amounting to but $1 a ton to St. Louis. Many im portant ports on the Tennessee, Ohio and Mississippi are reached by steamboats from this city ; and railways run to Birmingham and other points. The Sheffield Land, Iron and Coal Company enjoys the honor of having founded this hive of industry and commerce, with its busy factories and fine public buildings, where five years ago stretched the lonely fields of a rural plantation. The magnificent inland water-way of the Ten nessee River, navigable now from North Carolina to the Ohio, is becoming a notable highway for iron and coal, cotton and grain, outward bound from North Alabama, and delivered at many cities of the West and Northwest. Even such ^^Stf dignified and ancient communities as Florence are suKFriEu iHLn-im, hotel. being forced, by the demands the New South BESSEMER : DE BARDELEBEN COAL AND IRON CO. 40 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. FLORENCE : SYNODICAL COLLEGE. makes upon them, on account of their unrivalled commercial strategic value, to exchange their placid seclusion for a new civic life, full of energy and enterprise. Florence, a pleasant old Alabama college-town, on a rolling plateau in the cotton region of the north, somehow was drawn into the resistless whirl of modern activity in 1887, and within two years the population increased five-fold. It has the same remarkable combination of iron, coal and lime that has enriched other localities in the State, and in addition it enjoys admirable, river commerce, by which the products of its mills can be delivered in the North at trifling charges for freight. Iron is freighted by steamer to St. Louis for $1 a ton. The advantages of the site have drawn to this beautiful river-city a num ber of large manufacturing companies, and many millions of Northern capital, covering widely diver sified interests ; and it is thought that Florence will become one of the half-dozen chief cities of the South. The chief development corporation of this locality has been the Florence Land, Mining and Manufacturing Company, which started its develop ment in 1887, and has continued it. Sheffield land, iron and coal company. Many other manufacturing towns have been started in Alabama. Some of them will suc ceed, in greater or less measure, and others will remain names and nothing more. Thus the old-time Chickasaw, at the foot of Colbert Shoals, in the far northwest, bloomed out in 1890 as the coming city of Riverton, with iron-furnaces to be, and basic steel plants, and elevators. So also Pell City seeks to rise, where several railways in tersect, in the rich Coosa Valley. Fort Payne was founded in 1889, by New- Englanders, who bought 32,000 acres of land here, with the coal-seams of Lookout Mountain on one side, and the iron ores of Red Mountain on the other, and beds of limestone between. Bluffton stands high on the Eastern-Alabama foot-hills, with cliffs of hematite iron ore all about it, furnishing material for several active furnaces. Decatur, on the broad and navigable Tennessee, and in the cereal belt, was a war- shattered old village of 1,500 people early in 1887, when New Decatur arose, to be a city of 8,000 people. Selma, on the Alabama, is an important cotton-market, manufacturing town, and railway centre. Huntsville, famous for its great flowing spring, is the capital of the rich est of the Tennessee-Valley counties, with profit able manufactures and a beautiful surrounding country. Eufaula stands perched on a bold bluff over the Chattahoochee. Tuskaloosa is a city of 5,000 people, on the Warrior River, be tween the rich corn and cotton fields of the val ley and the famous Warrior coal-fields. Talla- Sheffield land, iron and coal co. '8 office. IRON MINES : DE BARDELEBEN COAL & IRON CO. THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 41 THE TENNESSEE RIVER AT SHEFFIELD. dega, Stevenson, Attalla, Gadsden and other new municipalities, are fast coming into public view. Railroads were initiated here by the Tuscum- bia, Courlland & Decatur line (44 miles) in 1831-4. The State now contains over 3,000 miles of tracks, the chief of which are the Alabama Great South ern, from Chattanooga to Meridian, with 245 miles in Alabama ; the South & North, from Montgom ery to Decatur, 189 miles ; the Mobile & Mont gomery, 178 miles; the Selma Division of the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia line, with 172 miles in Alabama ; the Meridian and the Mobile and Birmingham Divisions ; the Georgia Pacific, 241 miles; the Memphis and Charleston, 151 ; the Alabama Midland, from Mont gomery to Bainbridge, Ga. ; the Savannah & Western, 156; the Alabama Mineral, 127; and the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham, 118. The other roads, 25 in number, have each less than 100 miles of track. The railroads include those from Mobile northeast to Mont gomery and to Atlanta, from Mobile north to Selma and Birmingham, from Mobile north west to Meridian, Miss, (and Cairo and St. Louis); from Meridian east to Selma and Montgomery, from Montgomery to Troy, Columbus and Opelika (a loop line) ; from Selma across the Coosa Valley to Talladega and Rome ; from Mobile east to Pensacola and west to New Orleans ; , and along the Tennessee Valley. The magnificent systems of the East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railway and other lines afford capital facilities for passengers and freight from Central Alabama northeastward to Chattanooga and the North, eastward to the first-class seaport of Brunswick (Ga. ), and southwestward to Mobile and the Gulf ports. The East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia connects also with the Atlantic Coast line at Jesup. The Mobile & Ohio Railroad traverses the rich farming ter ritory of the Alabama Land & Development Company, in the southwestern counties. Navigation by canoes was superseded by flat-boats, taking three months from Mobile to Montgomery ; and in 1818 the St. -Stephens Steamboat Company received incorporation, fol lowed by the Steamboat Company of Alabama. The early boats took 15 days to go from Mobile to Montgomery. There are now 43 steamboats (21 for passengers) on the rivers with a tonnage of 7,008, and a value of $250,000. From the high bluffs along the rivers, cotton is sent down to the boats on slides, and passengers use long stairways. Alabama also has 73 sailing-vessels, of 8, 000 tons. Mobile is the only port in the State, and her commerce has declined seriously, on account of railway competition and discrimination — New Orleans and the Atlantic ports taking her cotton exportations, and Pensacola shipping the lumber. Mobile's exports were $22,500,000 in 1870. In 1878, they had fallen to $9,000,000. Manufactures are mainly in the northern counties, where the recent development of vast coal and iron deposits has revolutionized the country, causing the rise of new manufacturing cities, like Birming ham and Anniston, Florence and Sheffield, and followed by the building of many furnaces and rolling-mills. In 1880 there were 2,000 factories, with $10,000,000 capital, em ploying 10,000 operatives, and with an annual product of $14,000,000. The chief items were $4,315,000 in flour and grist-mill products, $2,650,000 in sawedlumber, $1,452,000 in iron and steel, and $1,352,000 in cotton goods. The man ufacturing interests of Alabama have increased prodigiously Florence : normal school. FLORENCE : CALVERT-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. 42 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. o-rTTH'^ MONTGOMERY : HIGH SCHOOL. within the past decade, especially in iron and steel and the connected industries. The largest cotton-mills are at Tallassee, 35 miles from Montgomery, at the great falls of the Tallapoosa, where 500 operatives are kept at work, in commodious stone factories. The works were started in 1845, ancl tne present mill dates from 1854, having been built at a cost of $400,000. During the Secession War, fire-arms were made here, but now the products are sheetings, shirtings, duck, and cotton rope and yarn. The Finances of Alabama show an estimated valuation of $378,000,000, with a State bonded debt of $9,240,000 (besides $250,000 unfunded), and county and municipal debts of about $5,000,000. The yearly State, county, and municipal taxes are above $2,000,000 yearly. The first bank was founded at Huntsville in 181 6. There are now 21 National banks, with about $3,500,000 capital; and six savings- banks, with deposits of $1,300,000. There are also seven State banks, with a capital of $700,000. The banking-house of Josiah Morris & Co. is the pre-eminent private financial institution in Alabama, and exercises an important and progres sive influence in Montgomery, the capital of the State, as well as in the great mineral regions of Central and Northern Alabama. Josiah Morris originated on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, in 1 8 1 8, and, after a number of years of active business in Georgia and Louisiana, in 1851 he settled at Montgomery, where his close attention to business and his keen insight have been the corner-stones of a wonderfully successful career. The firm has helped the great railroad enterprises of this section with counsel and credit ; and especially has contributed largely to the building of the South and North line, and the consequent development of Birmingham. The large and increasing business of this house has compelled the erection of a new banking building, which is an ornament to the capital of Alabama. Mr. Morris's asso ciate is F. M. Billing. Josiah Morris & Co. carry on a general banking business. The First National Bank of Birmingham, although established within a. very few years, now occupies a proud position among the financial institutions of the South, and has the largest deposits and does the largest business of any bank in the State of Alabama. With a paid-in capital of $250,000, this corporation already has a surplus exceeding $200,000; and its first-class and secure lines of business assure the continuous increase of this practical reserve fund. The efficient aid of such a powerful financial institution as this has been wisely exerted to advance the prosperity of Birmingham in many ways, and to build up and sustain the great industries which have risen here. At once conservative and enterprising, the First National has continually developed its opportunities and resources, with an unwavering faith in the iron wealth of the Alabama hills as the true foundation for a powerful monetary institution ; and the result has amply justified the sa gacity of the undertaking. Its building was the first three-story brick structure in Birmingham, erected for this bank in 1872, by Charles Linn, inanold corn-field, I^^PS^^iKtSJ:'*TJ;T^tffll: and tllen known a" over Alabama as "Linn's Folly." BBlHBrol^SjiiWMLlH Th,i Fi'St Xati"nal was organized in 1884, by the con- '¦' ''^#lH It? I solidation of the National Bank of Birmingham and the City Bank. Then there were two banks in the city, where there are now twelve. MONTGOMERY T JOSIAH MORRIS & CO. 'S BANK. RST NATIONAL BANK. c«^= 1* VV.H. SEWARD. '=mr HISTORY. "xr3 Sailing eastward from Kamchatka, in 1 741, the Russian navigators, Chi- rikoff and Bering, were the first Europeans to see the Alaskan shores, reaching the lone north land at different points. These intrepid and ill- fated explorers were fol lowed by the Siberian fur-hunters, advancing along the Aleutian group, and enslaving the natives, nine-tenths of whom disappeared between 1760 and 1818. In 1799 the Emperor Paul, of Russia, granted a twenty years' charter to the Russian-American Company, whose iron- willed manager, Baranoff, conquered the country as far as Sitka (which was founded in 1801) ; established a colony in California ; and opened trade with China, Honolulu and the Spanish colonies. In 1 81 8 Russia interposed between the natives and the companies, and thousands of Aleuts and others were Christianized, largely by the labors of Innocentius Veniaminoff, afterwards Primate of the Greek Church. Under the strong influence of Seward and Sumner, and in the face of keen ridicule and opposition, the U. -S. Gov ernment bought Alaska (a profitless land for Russia), in 1867, for $7,200,000 in gold. American soldiers then garri soned the old Russian forts ; but a few years later they were withdrawn, and the only armed defenders now are a small war-vessel and a com pany of marines, who assist the STATISTICS. Settled at Kadiak, in ... 1784 Founded by Russians. Annexed to the United States, 1867 Population in T&8o, . . 33>426 White, . . -430 Creole, . . 1,756 Eskimo, . 17.617 Aleut, . . 2,1^5 Tinneh, ... . 3.927 Thinklet, 6,763 Hyda 788 Population in 1890, . . . 30,320 White, ... 4,4iP Native, 22,135 Mixed, 1,568 Chinese and Black, . . . 2,207 1 inhabitant to 17 square miles. Voting Population, . . . o Vote for Harrison (1888), . o Vote for Cleveland (1888), 0 Net Public Debts, o Real Property, 1 (estimated), Personal Property, J . $5,000,000 Banks . . o Area (square miles), . . 531,000 U. S. Representatives, . . o Militia (Disciplined), ... o Counties, . . . o Cities, , o Towns. Villages, .... 320 Post-offices, . . . . II Railroads (miles) . . 0 Vessels, o Tonnage, ... ... o Farm Land (in acres) ... c Colleges and Professional Schools, .... o Government Schools, 18 Mission Schools, 32 School Children, . . 1,300 Newspapers, 4 Latitude, . . 54° 40' In 710 23' Longitude, 181° W. to 1730 13' E. Temperature, . . — ° 70° to 120° Mean Temperature, Sitka, . 43° CHIEF PLACES AND POPULATIONS Sitka, . • 1,188 Juneau, . . ... • 1,107 Hoonah, . 438 Metlakahtla, . . . . 427 Douglas City, 421 Unalashka, 400 Pribyloff Islands, ... 400 Douglas Island, .... 392 Klakwan, ... . ¦ 326 Wrangcll, 3™ civil government in preserving the public peace and guarding the public property. For many years this great hyperborean province was known as Russian America. The name Alaska Alaska 44 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SITKA I CUSTOM HOUSE AND BARRACKS. is from the Aleutian word Alakshak, meaning "The Continent" or "Large Country," modified by the Russians into Aliaska, and given to the great peninsula south of Bering Sea. When the United States bought the country, the various names of Polario, Ameri can Siberia, Zero Islands and Walrussia were suggested for it ; but Charles Sumner secured adoption of the present title. The popular name for the District is Uncle Sam's Ice Box ; and it has also been called The Land of the Midnight Sun, and The Land of Sundown Seas. The arms of Alaska show men driving seals, vessels among the islands, and lofty mountains, with brilliant rays above them. The Governors of Alaska have been: John H. Kinkead, 1884-5; A- p- Swineford, 1885-8; and Lyman E. Knapp, 1888-91. The area of Alaska is of imperial dimensions. North and south it extends between Dixon Entrance and Point Barrow for 1,200 miles, which equals the distance from Maine to Florida; and its western extension of 2,100 miles, between Port land Canal and Attu, approximates the distance from Virginia to California. The District equals in area one-sixth of the United States, or one-seventh of Europe. The lower part, from Dixon Entrance to Mt. St. Elias, consists of a strip of main land about thirty miles wide and five hun dred miles long, made up chiefly of rough and broken country, composed of numer ous irregular ranges of steep, lofty and often snowy mountains, among whose curving crests runs the international boundary. This huge Cordilleran wall looks westward upon a maze of deep straits and sounds, including the magnificent Clarence Strait, a hundred miles long and four miles wide, and as straight as a canal. Amid this labyrinth of sea-waters the Alexander Archi pelago follows the shore-line for 300 miles, with the Prince-of- Wales, Admiralty, Baranoff and other islands, large enough for states, and thousands of minor islands. The climate of southern Alaska is moderated by the influence of the ocean, and does not have the formidable extremes of heat and cold that persecute New England. The mean temperature of Sitka is 54. 2° in summer, and 31.90 in winter. It is too humid to allow of curing hay, or many other agricultural industries, but turnips, cabbages, potatoes, and other vegetables are grown, and a few cattle are kept. The temperature resembles that of Northern Scot land and parts of Norway ; and the winters are milder than those of New York. The rainfall is from 80 to 136 inches in a year. In the great forests of southeastern Alaska, the prevailing tree is the Sitka spruce, re sembling the silver fir of California, some times reaching a height of 250 feet, and cover ing many thousands of square miles of the Alexander Archipelago. It ascends the sides of the steepest mountains for over 1,000 feet. The yellow cedar is a hard and durable wood, GRANVILLE CHANNEL. EN ROUTE TO ALASKA. INDIAN VILLAGE, WITH TOTEM POLES. THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 45 UNALASHKA. pleasantly perfumed, and admitting of a high polish. There are vast forests of spruce and hemlock, but only a few mills have been erected, on account of the uncertain tenure of land. Among the inhabitants of these woods are black, brown and cinnamon bears, deer and lynxes, minks and martens, white and sil ver-gray foxes, and millions of undisturbed birds. The great northward and westward curve of the coast from. Dixon Entrance covers a length of 550 miles, to Prince- William Sound, whence the shore-line trends south and west, 725 miles, to the tip of Aliaska, and thence zigzags north and east to Bering Strait and the Arctic Ocean. The Kadiak group, 600 miles west of the Alexander Archipelago, covers nearly 6,000 square miles, and has several interesting vil lages of the descendants of Russian fathers and Alaskan mothers, and the homes of nearly 2,000 Kaniag natives, a fast-fading race. Two hundred miles farther westward, in the stormy and misty ocean, rise the Shumagin Islands, inhabited by Californian cod- fishermen and Alaskan sea-otter hunters. The Aleutian Archipelago runs from near the Shumagin group for 1,650 miles, in the direction of Asia, a series of treeless, grassy and generally mountainous islands, with numerous volcanic peaks, rising be tween the Pacific Ocean and Bering Sea. This region is the home of tremendous gales and almost per petual sea-mists, and has a mild and humid climate, averaging 500 in summer and 300 in winter. Sum mer lasts from April to October, and a more rainy than snowy winter the rest of the year. At Unalashka and Kadiak the thermometer rarely reaches as low as zero, and in summer it mounts to 75°. Fewer than half the days are entirely cloudy. A dense and luxuriant growth of grass rustles in the valleys, and may give rise to sheep-raising industries in the future ; and innumerable huckle berries grow on the island hills and plains. Many of the Aleutian Islands lie south of the latitude of Liverpool, and have a climate not greatly different from that of northern Eng land. The Aleuts are short, yellowish-brown, Japanese-looking people, with large mouths, flat noses, high cheek-bones, small eyes, and coarse black hair. They are exceedingly religious, after the manner of the Greek Church, being in many cases moderately well- educated, and ranking creditably as traders and accountants. Some of them dwell in their own comfortable houses, with American furniture and tableware ; and their women earnestly copy New-York fashion-plates. There are 1,900 Aleuts and 500 Creoles on Atka, Umnak, Unalashka and Spirkin Islands ; at the great trading-station of Belkoffski; and at Unga, famous for its hunters of sea-otter. The most westerly point of the United States is the island of Attu, 3,084 feet high, 400 miles from Kamchatka, and 400 miles from the nearest Alaskan village. Here dwell seven-score of vigorous and enterprising Aleuts, who (although very poor) have resisted advantageous offers to leave their lonely island-home. Their beach-side hamlet has a chapel and a ATTU ISLAND. CAPE PRINCE-OF-WALES. 46 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. store. Blue foxes roam over the hills ; and wild geese, sea-lions, cod and halibut abound near by. San Francisco lies 2,900 miles west of Maine, in a bee line, and 2,943 miles east of Attu, and is therefore a little east of the centre of the Union. Since the American domain extends over 196 degrees, sun, in summer, is always shining the June twilight settles down KING ISLAND, BERING SEA. or more than half way round the earth, the on the United States somewhere. When over the gray-green wastes of Bering Sea, and the weary Aleut fisherman pulls his canoe toward the shore, the morning light is already streaming far out over Maine, and the axes of the lumbermen are arousing the echoes of the Penobscot forests. Bering Strait is forty miles wide, 1,000 miles north of Attu, between Cape Prince- of- Wales, on the American side, and East Cape, on the Asiatic shore. It is twenty or thirty fathoms deep, with a current flowing northward into the Arctic Ocean, and another south into Bering Sea, the latter being permanent, the former temporary and tidal. Arrangements have been talked of to send two large steamships every season from American ports to the Arctic Ocean, bearing sum mer-excursionists. The Strait was traversed in 1648 by Deshneff, and in 1728 by Bering. In 1778 Capt. Cook explored and named it. The Diomede Islands lie in Bering Strait, two miles apart, one of them, Ratmanoff (or Im'ah-khluk) being Russian, and the other, Krusenstern (or Ing'ah-khluk), American. They are usually known as the Big and Little Diomedes. The Little Diomede is a bald rock about 250 feet high, with forty Eskimo inhabitants, always willing to trade walrus-ivory and fox-skins for whiskey and tobacco. Thirty miles away is King Island, fronting the Bering currents with basaltic cliffs 586 feet high, and inhabited by bold Eskimo walrus-hunters and kayak-men, whose homes are built on stages constructed on the steep rocky slopes, one above another, like terraces. Leaving aside the long Aleutian and Sitkan horns, Alaska may be likened to a huge square, with its sea-bound edges fringed by estuaries, like Bristol Bay and. Norton Sound, on Bering Sea, and Kotzebue Sound, opening into the Arctic. It is a land of a short, hot summer, in which all the snow is melted, and a long, cold winter; and upon its river-banks and ^ 72^i?~~^^ coast-line there dwell 18,000 Innuits or Eskimo, amid the forever ^ ^bSK^^^'CT^^s. frozen fields where no cereals or fruits can be raised lies within the Arctic Circle, frozen moor or tundra, with lakes and marshes, and low The Eskimo are taller and One-third of Alaska and is nearly all mosquito-haunted mountain-spurs.stronger than their brethren of Green land and Labra dor, with fresh yellow faces, in clined to mirth. They dwell in bark shanties or cotton tents, in summer ; and in winter in huts of logs, entered by underground passages. They eat the meat of moose and whale, seal and walrus, reindeer and bear, wild ARCTIC OCEAN : POINT BARROW. fowl, and many fish ; dress in the skms of animals ; and find great comfort in smoking tobacco. These bold sea-hunters and fishermen occupy the entire Alaskan coast from THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 47 GREAT PACIFIC GLACIER, AT FOOT OF MT. LA PAROUSE. Mt. St. Elias around to and along the Arctic Ocean to Greenland, except for the in trusive Tinneh colonies at Cook's Inlet and Copper River. Winter travelling inland is done on sledges drawn by dogs, six of which can transport several hundred pounds thirty miles or more in a day. The Yukon traders often make in this manner journeys of 2,000 miles, during the winter season. In summer all travel is by canoes of skin or bark. Millions upon millions of geese and ducks, swans and cranes, herons and swal lows, robins and grouse visit the vicinity of Norton Sound every summer, to lay their eggs in the grass of the lowlands. It seems as if all the birds of America sought this desolate land to breed in, to the great delight of the Eskimo, who eat their roasted eggs and tender flesh. Point Barrow has a building erected by the Government, and for two years occupied by Lieut. Ray as a signal-station. Afterwards, it was maintained by the Pacific Steam Whaling Company, and kept manned as a trading-post, where the whalebone from whales killed by the natives was purchased. In 1889 the United-States Government established a relief station there, the material for the buildings being transported and put up by the revenue- cutter Bear and the naval vessel Thetis. In 1871, 33 ships were crushed in the ice, and 1,200 sailors became castaways on this sterile coast. In 1876, thirteen vessels were caught in the ice on this coast, and abandoned, and in 1888, five ships were lost at Point Barrow. The Eskimo village of Nuwuk, with 200 inhabitants, lies near the point, which is a low sandy projection near a shallow bay. It is the most northerly point of the United States. Yet here, during a few days in July, buttercups, dandelions and poppies spangle the moors, and golden butterflies float The Yukon River is of unknown miles), and traders' steam-boats miles up its mighty flood. It has with a dreary and water-soaked and for a thousand miles it varies in width. The water is muddy, the steamers. Blue grass, wild grow on the shores, which are swarms of most formidable and St. Michael, a fortified trading Russians in 1835, is the metropolis of this region. It lies far north of the Yukon delta, on Norton Sound, but gets all the trade of the great river. People bound for the Yukon first go to this port, whence light-draft steamers run cautiously around into the river, whose mouths are almost closed by leagues of mud. The short but intensely hot summers of the upper Yukon country produce millions of acres of rich grasses ; and barley has ripened at Fort Yukon, inside of the Arctic Circle. The mean temperature the dev|l,s thumb. of the Yukon country is 250, and it ranges from 700 below, in winter, to 1000 above. These winters of almost interminable length and amaz ing snows keep the ground in many places frozen to within six to eighteen inches of the in the chill air. length ( over 2, 000 tow batteaux for 1,300 several shallow mouths, delta seventy miles wide; from one to five miles and clogs the boilers of roses and other plants infested by enormous poisonous mosquitoes. post founded by the INDIAN RIVER. 48 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MOUNT ST. ELIAS. surface all summer. Up as far as the Episcopal mission at Anvik, the Eskimo dwell, along the river; but the Yukon shores above that point belong to the Tinneh, an Athabaskan people, whose fishermen and hunters occupy its shores, and also have log villages along the Kuskokwim and Tananah. It is 800 miles from St. Michael to Nuklakayet, and thence 300 miles to the deserted Fort Yukon, where the river has a width of seven miles, between flat and mosquito-scourged lowdands, with the pale blue Romantzoff Mountains in the northwest. The fort is near the inflowing of the Porcupine River, above which the Canadians call the Yukon the Lewes River. Somewhere near the bound ary, 200 miles above the fort, are the gold-fields of the upper Yukon, reached from Haines, or Chilkat Mission, 95 miles northwest of Juneau, by crossing the coast mountains, over the Chilkoot Pass, 4, 100 feet high, and descending the Yukon waters from Lake Lindeman. It is 430 miles from Haines to Pelly River; 550 miles to Stewart River ;. and 670 miles to Forty-Mile Creek. A large number of gold-prospectors have ascended the Chilkat, and crossed to the head-waters of the Yukon, which they followed down to Bering Sea. Several hundred American miners are at work on the upper Yukon, but without severe hardships little gold can be obtained. The boundary line between Alaska and Canada has never been marked, and large areas of territory are in dispute, especially on the upper Yukon. In 1887—8, the Dominion of Canada sent a surveying party, in charge of Dr. G. M. Dawson, to make a pre liminary reconnoissance of the boundary line; and in 1889-90, a similar party was sent out by the United States. The clay- white and turbid Kuskokwim River is navigable from Bering Sea for 300 of its thou sand miles of length. Two hundred miles up is Kolmakoffski, once a Russian trading-post for the 5,000 fish-eating natives of the lower river. The mosquitoes in this region are innumerable. The Colville and an undetermined number of other rivers flow into the Arctic Ocean. Formerly every year'a great fair was held on the Colville, visited by the Eskimos for hundreds of miles. But the conditions of trade have now totally changed this and many other ancient usages. The Alaskan mountains are northerly extensions of the Cascades and Rockies, and culminate in the majestic St.-Elias Alps, from 14,000 to 20,000 feet high, the greatest mountains north of Mexico ; the Chugatch and Kenai ranges, never yet explored; Iliamna, 12,000 feet high, and an active volcano; and the Aleutian peaks, Makushin on Unalashka, Shishal- din (8,000 feet) on Unimak, Korovin on Atka, and many other volcanic spires, rising from the lonely northern sea. The District contains ten active volcanoes, and many that are burnt out or somnolent. This vast line of mountains runs northwest to the Ramparts of the Yukon, and then turns southwest through Aliaska, and is ap parently continued by the Aleutian Islands, sink ing lower and lower into the ocean as the range advances. Mt. St. Elias reaches a height of 14,000 feet, 45 miles inland from Icy Bay, which is 55 miles from the Indian coast-hamlet of Yakutat, 250 miles northwest of Sitka. MOUNT WRANGELL. THE MUIR GLACIER. THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. 49 SITKA : INDUSTRIAL TRAINING SCHOOL. It crowns a vast wilderness of glaciers (some of them covering a thousand square miles each), black rocky ridges and craters, and solitary lakes, near the huge peaks of Mt. Cook and Mt. Vancouver. Lieut. Schwatka in 1886, and the Topham- Williams party in 1888, both failed, after prodigious efforts, to reach the summit of this lonely peak. Mt. Crillon (15,900 feet) and Mt. Fairweather (15,500 feet) rise with magnificent effect from the sea, west of Glacier Bay. Mt. Wrangell, in the forks of the brawling Copper River, has an estimated height of 19,400 feet, and perpetual smoke pours from its peak. The St. -Elias Alps terminate in the Kenai Peninsula, south and east from the Alaskan Range, beyond which extend- vast table-lands. Along the moorlands of the Arctic coast rises a long range of low gray and bronze-colored hills, sinking east of Cape Lisburne into gravelly hillocks. The glaciers of the St. -Elias region are of amazing dimensions, some times reaching twenty miles in width of working face. The Muir Glacier, where it meets the sea, is three miles long and 330 feet high, a vast pearly and ultramarine wall of ice, with a background of mountains rising 15,000 feet. The Davidson and other glaciers are famous for their grandeur. In the eighty miles from Juneau to Chilkat, at the head of Lynn Canal, a score of glaciers are visible. There are perhaps 5,000 of them between Dixon Entrance and the tip of Aliaska. In some inlets of this formidable coast the tides rise and fall fifty feet, notably in Cook's Inlet and at the mouth of the Kuskokwim River. The Government consists of a governor, a dis trict judge, a clerk of the court (who is also secretary and treasurer of Alaska), and a U.-S. district attor ney; a collector of customs and five deputies; U.-S. commissioners at Fort Wrangell, Sitka, Juneau and Unalashka ; and a marshal and six deputies. The District has no delegate in Congress, and no local legislature, although its remoteness from the States seems to render such political privileges necessary. The National land-laws have not been extended to Alaska, and only 100 acres in the District have legal titles, being by fee- simple holding over from the Russian era. All other estates are retained by the irregular tenure of "squatter sovereignty" on the public domain. The laws of Oregon form the code of Alaska, as far as applicable, and supplemented by Congressional enactments. The executive officers are appointed by the President, the Alaskans having no franchise. Educational affairs are under the direction of the U.-S. Commissioner of Education, with Rev. Sheldon Jackson, D. D., as U.- S. General Agent of Education for Alaska. Wherever possible, a local school-board is established in each settlement. Congress appropriates about $50,000 a year for these schools, which are less efficient in results than could be wished, because the children are not compelled to attend. There are eighteen day-schools wholly " supported by the Government, two each at Sitka, Juneau, and Douglas City, and one each at Jackson, Metlakahtla, Klawak, Fort Wrangell, Killisnoo, Haines, Kadiak, Unga, Afognak and Unalashka. In addition to these schools, there are twelve boarding- schools aided by the Government; Anvik and Point Hope (Episcopal), Nulate and Kozyroff, on the Yukon, and Cape Vancouver (Catholic), Unalaklik, on Norton Sound, SITKA I RUSSIAN CASTLE. SITKA : GREEK CHURCH. 5° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and Yakutat (Lutheran); Bethel, on the Kuskokwim River, and Carmel, on the Nushagak River (Lutheran); Cape Prince-of- Wales (Congregational); and Point Barrow and Sitka (Presbyterian). The Industrial Boarding School at Sitka has 20 teachers and 1 70 pupils, and teaches shoe-making, carpentering, blacksmithing, and other trades. It is the foremost civilizing agency in Alaska, and serves as a house of refuge and a defence for maltreated native youth. The Greek Church in Alaska has a body of conservative priests, supported from the Imperial Synod at Moscow, and governed by Bishop Vladimir, who has established at San Francisco an excellent school for the young Russians and He has instructed his clergy to learn the English language, for teach- This ancient church supports seventeen parochial schools in Alaska. INDIAN VILLAGE. Creoles of Alaska. ing and preaching. The Jesuits have founded missions and schools on the Yukon ; and Catholic institutions exist at Juneau and elsewhere. The Presbyterian Board of Home Missions and the Church Missionary Society of England each support two or more schools and several missions. Mails are carried to Juneau, Sitka, Fort Wrangell, Loring and Killisnoo weekly in summer, and fortnightly in winter ; and monthly mails go from Fort Wrangell to Skakan, Klawak and Jackson. Three comfortable steamships run from Tacoma, Port Townsend, Seattle and Victoria, to Fort Wrangell, Juneau and Sitka, most of the voyage being among and inside of the great lonely islands which extend for hundreds of leagues, between the Pacific Ocean and the untrodden glaciers and mountain-ranges of the mainland. There are over ten thousand of these islands be tween Puget Sound and Mt. St. Elias, partly submerged peaks of the Coast Range, often snow-crowned, and separated by very deep, narrow and protected channels. Ivan Petroff, the special agent of the census, divides Alaska, into six sections : The Arctic, from Cape Prince-of- Wales and the Yukon Mountains to the Arctic Ocean, 125,245 square miles, skoot kali's totem. with 3, 094 Eskimo inhabitants, in eighteen villages on the Arctic and eleven others ; the Yukon, 176,715 square miles, with 4,276 Eskimos, 2,557 Athabas- kans and 37 whites and Creoles, mostly on the Yukon River and delta, and Norton Sound ; the Kuskokwim, 114,975 square miles, with 8,036 Eskimos, 506 Tinneh, 255 Aleuts and 114 whites and Creoles ; the Aleutian, including Aliaska, 14,610 square miles, with 1,890 Aleuts and 561 whites and Creoles ; the Kadiak, from Aliaska to Mt. St. Elias, 70, 884 square miles, with 2,211 Eski mos, 1,190 Athabaskans andThlinkets, 951 whites and Creoles ; and the Southeastern, from Mt. St. Elias to Portland Canal, 28,980 square miles, with 6,437 Thlinkets, 788 Hydas, 293 whites and 230 Creoles. The present population is probably under 40,000 persons. The natives are of a stock peculiar to northwest America, from the Columbia to Mt. St. Elias. They are more in- Alaskans. telligent and skilful than the Athabaskan Indians, but like them very superstitious, and dangerous when under the influence of hoochinoo, a fiery rum which they distill from 1 S- W\ 1, '' If ||Li Hff3TOl 1 .iT Slips ---^irnrP fnf(L . ¦ .-¦ _±z^L |l | ^1 '¦-¦.:l r'- Mm ISbw^^^iS ^^^^^^r^..s^ -..'•¦¦¦ ¦.¦'--¦:-¦.¦¦ -. THE DISTRICT OF ALASKA. Si SEAL-FISHER'S HUT. molasses. The Chilkat blankets and the fine silver work and great totems or carved wooden pillars of the tribes, show a notable industrial ingenuity, which may have valuable results, when the hardworking missionaries shall have reclaimed their young people. They are industrious and shrewd, and amazingly ingenious liars, but will not steal from each other. Otherwise, their morals are at a very low ebb. The tribal relation is rapidly giving way, arid the chiefs who continue have lost much of their influ ence ; and the coast Indians have generally abandoned the native costumes. There are now no shamans practicing their sorceries, in the tribes nearest the white settlements. The Government has never recognized or treated the Alaskans as Indians, and they are free to come and go, to sue and be sued, and to make contracts, like other citizens. The Alaskans have never been a servile race, and have had few hostilities with the Americans, receiving, also, no Government support. They are fast patterning after the whites, and reaching out to meet the new conditions, laboring in the salmon-canneries and gold-mines ; and are both industrious, frugal and ambitious. The 5,000 whites are at Juneau and Sitka and the scattered fishing and mission stations. Gov. Stoneman, of California, has said that the gold-mines of Alaska will produce enough treasure to pay the National debt. These rich deposits were first discovered in 1877, at Silver Bay, near Sitka, where valuable quartz-lodes have been worked ; and other auriferous outcrops are already located on Admiralty and Unga islands, at Unalashka and elsewhere. In 1880, Joseph Juneau, a French-Canadian miner (and nephew of the founder of Milwaukee) prospected through the region which now bears his name, and found free gold in great quantities in the mountain-girt Silver-Bow Basin. Over $1,000,000 in dust has since been washed out of these placers. Within a league occur the gold-bearing quartz-beds of Sheep's Creek, whose product is shipped to Seattle for refining. Two miles from Juneau is Douglas Island, where John Treadwell established the works of the Alaska Mining and Milling Company. It is said that $1,000,000 in gold bricks are sent thence to San Francisco yearly, although the ore is of low grade, yielding but ' to the ton. The quartz is easily quarried from the hill-side, and reduced by one of the largest mills in Ithe world, with 240 stamps, 96 concentrators and 12 Icrushers. There are large deposits of silver-bearing lead at Sheep's Creek and between Norton Sound and Bering Strait. Copper is found abundantly on Kadiak and at Copper River ; bismuth on Mt. Ver- stovoia ; cinnabar on the Kuskokwim ; sulphur on Unimak ; and elsewhere amber, sulphur, marble, slate, Ipetroleum and kaolin. Semi-anthracite coal appears in the coast-cliffs at Coal Bay and Cook's Inlet. The fisheries are of enormous value. There are i-s» fifty San-Francisco and New-Bedford whaling- vessels in the Arctic Ocean, getting $1,500,000 a year in ivory, bone and oil. The salmon pack has risen 30,000,000 pound-cans yearly, besides 15,000 barrels. Prince-of- Wales Island, Cook's Inlet, Bristol Bay and Kadiak each have a score of large salmon-canneries. The Yukon, ST.-PAUL IS1AND : DRIVING SEALS. HAUNTS OF THE SEA LION. 52 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. JUNEAU OITV. Kuskokwim and Nushagak rivers have unlimited supplies of salmon. 350,000 gallons of herring, whale and dogfish oil are made yearly at Killisnoo. 5,000,000 pounds of cod are caught yearly. The yearly fur-yield of Alaska has reached 100,000 fur-seals, 5i°00 sea- otters, 10,000 beavers, 12,000 foxes, 20,000 mar ten, and 15,000 others. The Government has re ceived from the seal islands a sum equal to that which was paid for the Territory. The plant of the Russian-American Company was purchased by San-Francisco capitalists, who were incorporated in 1870, as the Alaska Commercial Company, and leased the Pribiloff Islands for twenty years, with the privilege of killing 100,000 seals yearly. In 1890 the Government granted the right of taking fur-seals to the North-American Commercial Com pany, for the twenty years up to 1910, for a yearly rental of $60,000, and $7.62^ for each seal-skin (besides $2 revenue-tax). The number of seals to be killed is limited, the first year to be not more than 60,000. The seal islands are visited yearly by steam-ships from San Francisco, 2,300 miles distant. St. Paul's, of 33 square miles, and St. George's, and covering 27 square miles, have beaches, where the seals crawl ashore and breed, and in June and July the allotted number of them are slain, and their skins salted and sent to San Francisco. There are 365 Aleuts on the Pribiloffs, with two Greek churches, English and Russian schools, good American houses, and medical care. 4,000,000 seals visit the Pribiloff Isles every summer ; and up to a very recent date the number was not decreasing, owing to the prohibition of killing females, and the precautions taken to slaughter only young bulls. This is the most important sealing-station in the world. 175,000 fur-seals are killed yearly in all parts of the globe, two thirds" of which come from the American and Russian islands of Bering Sea, most of the remainder being taken in the sea itself. Grave difficulties arose be tween the United States and Great Britain in 1889, by reason of American revenue-cutters seizing Canadian seal- ing-vessels in these waters. These poachers haunt the waters through which the seals pass every spring, where by indiscriminate slaughter, with fire-arms and gill-nets, especially of pregnant cow-seals, they threaten the extinction of the race. Only 21,000 pelts were secured in 1890, by the North American Company. Juneau, the largest and liveliest town in Alaska, is 166 miles north of Sitka, and has two newspapers (the most northerly in America), opera-house, library, Brewery and the Alaska- News Company. It stands on a plateau, running back to lofty and precipitous mountains. Sitka, the capital of Alaska, has a quaint green-spired Russo-Greek Church, the old Russian Government House, high on a rocky pinnacle, and the Alaska Historical Society. A weekly newspaper has long been published here. The harbor is deep and dotted with islands, and over it Mounts Verstovoia and Edgecumbe and other snowy peaks rise far into the sky. Metlakahtla, on Annette Island, is the home of a thousand semi-civilized Indians, transferred by William Duncan, from British Columbia. There are good schools, a steam saw-mill and other civilizing influences. SITKA HARBOR. FORT WRANGELL, INDIAN QUARTERS. '3 9,658 40,44°35>IO° 5,280 391 16,049 28,202 12,238 mile, 0.4 6,137 - 4.941 $769,000 $26,000,000 113,020 1,097 All over the great Territory 1 of Arizona, by the sides of its riveafrand on its sun-steeped ' hills, are the fortresses and cli IT- dwellings, the mines and terraces, and the great systems of canals which belonged to the partly civilized people who dwelt here six or eight cen turies ago. Frank Cushing estimates that 300,000 persons then occupied the Salt-River Valley alone. The cliff-houses of the Rio de Chelly and the canons of the Colorado still present their problems to antiquaries, some of whom believe the early Arizonians to have been of the Pueblo stock ; while others trace them to the Aztecs. Among these mem orials of a vanished race is the Casa Grande, a great adobe ruin, found here by the Spanish explorers of 350 years ago, and still standing in lonely desolation on the tawny plain, viewing the Sonora Mountains. The modern discoverers of Arizona were an Italian Franciscan friar, Fray Marcos de Niza (Mark of Nice), whilom companion of Pizarro in Peru, and Estevanico, a freed African slave. In 1539 these two went northward from Culiacan, "as the Holy Spirit did guide," and reached the Gila Valley. Estevanico was slain by the natives ; but Niza planted a cross in Cibola (Zufii), and took possession of the country in the name of Spain. During the next year, Alarcon navigated the Col orado as far as the Grand Canon, and Captain-General Cor- onado, with 300 Spaniards and 800 Indians, marched across Arizona, to the Moqui pueblos and beyond, fighting many a stout battle with the natives. In 1687, and later, Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries did great works in this heathen land, and founded many towns ; but the civiliza tion which arose in their train vanished before the forays of the pitiless Apache warriors. The missions were suppressed by the Mexican Gov ernment in 1828, and the Indians destroyed again most of the churches and mining and reduced Arizona to savagery. During the Mexican War, in 1847, STATISTICS. Settled near Tucson. Settled in . . 1685 Founded by .... Spaniards. Annexed to the United States, 1848 Territory formed, . 180; Population, in 1870, In iS" White,' .... Colored (civilized), American-born, . Foreign-born, . Males, Females, .... In 1890 (census'. Population to the square Voting Population, , . Vote for Congress (1890) Dem. Vote for Congress (i£ Rep., .... Territorial Debt, Assessed Property, . . Area (square miles), Delegates to Congress, Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, ... Post-offices, . . . Railroads (miles), . . Manufactures (yearly, in 1880), S6I5.655 Operatives, . . . .220 Yearly Wages, . . . $111,180 Farm Land (acre in 1880), I35.5J3 Farm-Land Values, . $1,127,946 Farm Products (yearly), $614,327 Colleges and Professional Schools, ... - • I School-Population, . . 10,303 School Attendance, . . . 3,849 Public Libraries, . . . . 2 Volumes, . . . . „ . 8,000 Newspapers, .... 26 Latitude, ... . 31° 20' to 37° Longitude, . . 6g°53' to 73 32' Temperature, . . . . 8° to 109 Mean Temperature (Tucson), 69 TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. Tucson, ... Phoenix, Tombstone, ... Prescott, . . . Globe, . - Nogales, .... Tempe, Florence, . . Flagstaff, . . Yuma, . . . 5-oQS4,000 2,000 2,0002,0002,0002,000 1,500 I.OOO 800 plants, Gen. 54 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CASA GRANDE. S. W. Kearney marched his command through the Gila Valley, and first brought this country to the notice of Americans. The part north of the Gila was ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848, and the 40,000 square miles south of the Gila came by the Gadsden Purchase, in 1853, from Mexico, for §10,000,000. Gen. Gadsden made great efforts to have his purchase include Guaymas, but Con gress did not support him, and thus Arizona is devoid of a seaport. In 1861 the United-States garrisons retreated to New Mexico, evacuating and destroying Forts Buchanan and Breckenridge. The Confederates captured Tucson and threatened Fort Yuma. With Texan banditti on one side, Sonorian plun derers on another, and the murderous Apaches everywhere, the Territory was mercilessly laid waste, and many of its people fled into exile. In May, 1862, Col. Carleton's column of 1800 Californians marched from Los An geles to Yuma, and entered Arizona, occupying it permanently for the Union, after a few skirmishes with the flying Texans. At this _-«»====="=^s="a«^ time there were no set tlements north of the Gila River. The f^ ^3§"5§|||r-3^ Territory was not set apart from New Mexico until 1863. Be- the Indians massacred more than 1,000 in 1876 the savages were placed on reser- the railway locomotive River, and the era of came to an end. Yet even Apaches left their reser- many citizens of the Gila in the Sierra Madre, where with the Mexican Gov- foray occurred in 1885-6, before Gen. Miles cap tains of Sonora. It is dangerous of the Apache quently to Florida and of Arizonians were killed of the hostile Apaches, has grown rapidly. The born Americans, from the na comes from A rizonac, the head of the Rio Al- tween 1864 and 1876 whites in Arizona ; but vations ; and in 1878 crossed the Colorado savagery and isolation as late as 1882-3 the vations and murdered Valley. They finally took refuge Gen. Crook, acting by arrangement ernment, attacked them. Another when Geronimo killed 50 persons tured the red warriors in the moun- bat a short time since the most bands wire banished to Texas, and subse- CAVE DWELLINGS. Alabama. Yet even in 1890 a number by the Indians. Since the removal of many and the incoming of the railways, Arizona immigration has been mainly of native- Western and Southwestern States. Arizo- the native (Pima) name of a locality near tar. Patrick Hamilton says: "Arizona is sometimes called The Sunset Land," and there is no region on the globe that can show such grand effects of light and shade, such gorgeousness of coloring, or such magnificent sun bathed landscapes." It is also known as The Apa che State, from the war rior tribe which for cen turies fought the troops of Spain, Mexico and the United States, and murdered thousands of miners, priests and travellers. These Bedouin of the West have destroyed nearly 200 towns and villages GOVERNMENT MODEL OF EXTINCT PUEBLO TOWN. THE TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. 55 in the Mexican State adjoining Arizona, which is, therefore, sometimes called Infelix Sonora. The Arms of Arizona bear a solitary deer, with pine-trees and a giant cactus, and the San-Francisco Mountains beyond. The motto is Ditat Deus ("Let God enrich"). The Governors of Arizona have been John N. Good win, 1863-5; Richard C. McCormick, 1865-9; A. P. K. Safford, 1869-77 ; John P. Hoyt (acting), 1877-8 ; John Charles Fremont, 1879-81 ; John J. Gosper (acting), 1881-2 ; Frederick A. Tritle, 1882-5 ; C. Meyer Zulick, 1885-9 ! Lewis Wolfiey, 1889-90. Arizona covers an area equal to that of Italy, or of New- England and New- York combined. The chief features of the scenery are the vast volcanic mesas, or plateaus, from 3,000 to 7, 500 feet high, covering the northern half ; the deep canons canon de chelly. of the rivers ; and the arid plains, south of the Gila. It is about 350 miles from New-Mexico, on the east, to California and Nevada on the west ; and 400 miles from Utah to Sonora. The mountain-system of Arizona has a general north western trend, and unites the massive Sierra Madre of Mexico with the descending and intermingled terraces of the which meet near the Grand mountains rise in long chains huas, 100 miles long, are sep- artesian wells) from the Santa Rita and other ranges, Baboquivari overlooks the these groups high sierras look to the great mass of the Mo- of which, in the center of upland plain. Then the tre- the San-Francisco Moun- rise on the eastern front of a miles of peaks and ranges to the Colorado River. The mighty highlands is Mount high, crowned during more ing snows, and visible for the clear and rarefied air. on lies a series of vast uninhabited plateaus, the Sheavwitz, Uinkaret, Kanab, Kaibab Wahsatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, Cation. From the illimitable plateau the higher and island-like groups. The well-watered Chirica- arated by the Sulphur-Spring Valley (famous for its Dragoon range ; and farther west lie the Sierra out to where the long peak of land of the Papagos. From across the upper Gila valley gollon Mountains, westward Arizona, opens a great dry mendous volcanic spires of tains, over 12,000 feet high, labyrinth of 20,000 square and lonely valleys, extending sovereign summit of these San Francisco, 12,561 feet than half the year with shin- more than 200 miles through giant yucca. North of the Colorado Can- and covered with and small grassy and Paria, flat on top and cut by deep gorges. cones and flows of lava, fragments of forest, parks. The desolate Kaibab Plateau is 90 miles long and 35 miles wide, from 7,500 to 9,300 feet above the sea, and bordered by lofty battlements. South of the river rises a long series of forest-clad and canon-scored plateaus, overlooked by the lonely Red Butte, and stretching away to the huge volcanic cones of the San-Francisco Mountains. The most astonishing feature of Arizona scenery is the Colorado River, formed in Utah by the confluence of the Green River, from Fremont's Peak, in the Wind-River Mountains of Wyoming, and the Grand River, from Long's Peak, in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. The drainage area of this petrified forest. 56 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. mighty stream is equal to New-England, the Middle States, Maryland and Virginia ; and its channel is 1,100 miles long, from the confluence of the rivers, or 2,000 miles long from the head of Green River. The Colorado separates Arizona from California and Nevada for over 400 miles. The remarkable feature of this stream is its passage through the most stupendous series of chasms in the world, with walls of marble and granite from 1,000 to 6,500 feet high, very precipitous and oftentimes for many leagues perpendicular, sculptured into wildly fantastic forms and brilliantly tinted in deep red and yellow, brown and gray, purple and black. Sometimes these gigantic cliffs fairly overhang the water, and the boatman looking upward can see but a narrow strip of blue sky, apparently resting on the ragged crags. From the rim above, the river may be seen rushing and whitening in the lifeless depths below, but the distance is so great that no sound can be heard. On every side labyrinths of canons cut into the plateaus, through which the tributary streams plunge over resounding cataracts. The Colorado enters Arizona in the long Glen Canon, whose walls and at grand canon. the shining Vermilion Cliffs, near the Paria River. Thence to the Colorado Chiquito, for a course of 65 miles, the water rushes through the Marble Canon, v*ith pavements and enormous buttressed walls of white and gray, pink and purple marble, indented with shadowy caverns and carved .--^-^.-^=2 ___^ — .-_ - „ — — _- - _ ^ into countless weird monumental forms. From the Colorado Chiquito to the hot desert of broken rocks and naked sands at the Grand Wash extends the Grand Cation of the Colorado, for a length of 220 miles, with sheer walls from 5,000 to 6,500 feet high ; and in this distance the water descends 3,000 feet, by many a white rapid and roaring cataract. In 1852 the steamboat Uncle Sam ascended from the Gulf to Yuma, and two years later the Gen. Jesup also reached Yuma. Lieut. Ivers ascended through the Black Canon in 1858 with the steamboat Explorer. From 1872 until the building of the Southern Pacific Railroad, in 1877, ocean steamships ran from San Fran cisco to the head of the Gulf of California, sending their cargoes up to Yuma on smaller boats. Now the lower part of the river, in Mexico, is rarely traversed by boats, the navi gation being up-stream from Yuma (where the railroad crosses) to Castle Dome, Ehrenberg (130 miles from Yuma), Aubrey, Camp Mohave and Hardyville (338 miles from Yuma), and occasionally 153 miles farther up, to Rioville, at the mouth of the Rio Virgen, in Nevada. Two hundred-ton steamers frequently ascend to Rioville, in high water, after cargoes of rock-salt. Most of the freighting is done on barges, towed by small steamers, and traveling only by day, making about fifty miles between dawn and dark. The low water of December and the roaring floods of Spring equally baffle the boatmen, who are perplexed . also by the shifting sand-bars. In 1869 Maj. J. W. Powell and nine men descended through the Grand Canon by boat from Green River, enduring several weeks of amazing peril and hardship ; and three members of his company were so daunted by their sufferings that they abandoned the 5Ex»>»»^ '';£%„¦. APACHE PASS. IN THE GILA VALLEY. THE TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. 57 MEXICAN WOMEN WASHING. expedition midway and scaled the canon walls, only to be killed by the Indians of the plateaus. The Colorado Chiquito flows for nearly 200 miles through appalling gorges, which cut the plateaus into islanded shreds. In the south there are several rivers that die on the plains, like the Santa Cruz, the Hassayampa and the Agua Fria. The Gila is 650 miles long. With its castle domes and thumb buttes and soli tary sugar-loaf peaks, and its mesas of bare rock, or beds of ashes, or leagues of yellow and vermilion sands, Arizona abounds in the strange and the won derful. Chalcedony Park, in Apache County, covers 2,000 acres, amid a vast desert of sandstone and lava, with the fragments of thousands of gigantic pines and cedars, brought here by a flood or glacier, and changed by Nature's chemistry into brilliant chalcedony and other minerals, in exquisite colors. Jasper, sard, carnelian, agate, chysoprase, and amethyst are also found in this petrified forest, from which great quantities of stone have been sent east, to be polished for ornaments. At one point, an agatized tree forms a natural bridge over a. rude canon , and elsewhere the broken sections resemble piles of cart-wheels. The Tonto Basin has a wonderful natural bridge of limestone, 200 feet high, 400 feet wide, 1,000 feet long, and six feet thick at the top of the arch, where there is a hole through which one can look down on the crystal stream in the bottom of the canonr The natural wells of Arizona often attain a great depth, with a diameter of many feet. The Montezuma Well, 55 miles northeast of Prescott, is 600 feet across and 100 feet deep, and the Region of a Thousand Wells has many of these natural reservoirs, from 20 to 100 feet across. Many invalids visit the Castle-Creek Hot Springs, near the Bradshaw Mountains ; and others find relief at Fuller's Hot Springs, flowing from the magnificent Santa-Catalina Mountains. Arizona is a part of the great Mexican plateau, with its pure, dry and electric air, balmy in winter and parching in summer, and the attendant paucity of animal life, and a flora including many fantastic desert growths. The climate varies greatly, from the brac ing air and deep winter snows of the north to the amazing heats of the region bordering on Sonora, in some parts of which the temperature passes 1000 for 100 consecutive days, and sometimes reaches 1 1 2° in the shade. South of the 34th parallel the summers are twelve months long, and snow never falls. This intense fervor is not productive of disease, and sunstrokes are unknown, on account of the extraor dinary dryness of the air, which reduces the sensible temperature many degrees. While the lowlands are parched and dry, the mountains abound in rain ; and the chief local problem is, how to properly store up this highland water for gradual distribution along the valleys. The warm, dry and balmy air of Ari zona is very agreeable to people with pulmonary or catarrhal complaints ; and thousands of invalids of this class come hither in the winter months. The rainfall is very small, especially in the south, reaching but seven inches a year at Tucson, and only three inches at Yuma. TUCSON : WOOD-PEDDLERS. FORT BOWIE. 58 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Agriculture of Arizona depends upon artificial irrigation, by whose aid crops of wheat and alfalfa (clover) are raised, and vegetables of almost every variety. The fruit product includes oranges, lemons, limes, peaches, apples, apricots, figs, dates, olives and a variety of berries. Within ten years upwards of $4,000,000 have been spent on irrigating canals in Arizona. The Territory has 1,000,000 cattle. The Mineral Resources of Arizona are enormous, and her leading industries are in mining and smelting, crushing and milling the ores. The modem output of the mines has passed $80,000,000; and their product in the days of Spanish control was very great. ¦ The export of silver has reached over $5,000,000 yearly. The treasure-lodes form a baldric crossing Arizona diagonally, for 400 miles, from the southeastern corner to the Black Canon. The , silver veins of Tombstone are large and easily worked, and have pro duced $33,000,000 worth, of treasure since their discovery in 1878. Ed. Schieffelin, being about to depart into the mountains prospecting, told a friend that he hoped to find a mine. "You'll find a tombstone," was the answer ; and so the rich mines discovered on the trip, and the city of 6, 000 people that rose near them, on a mesa nearly a mile above the sea- level, were called Tombstone — and the local news paper bears the name of The Epitaph. Arizona's exports of copper have reached $4,000,000 in a year. The copper deposits at Clifton are among the richest in the world. The Copper Queen, at Bisbee, runs several large smelters and has made as high as $ 1 , 000, 000 a year. The Old-Dominion Copper Mines are at Globe, with two 40-ton smelters. Government. — The Governor and executive officers and Supreme-court Judges are appointed by the President ; and the people elect members of the biennial Legislature and a Congressional delegate. The Territorial Prison is at Yuma, the Insane Asylum near Phoenix, and the Normal School at Tempe. The Territorial University is at Tucson. Arizona has 24 weekly and eight daily newspapers, several of which are in Spanish. Phcenix, the capital, is among the vineyards and orange-groves of the mountain-walled Salt-river Valley, in an oasis made by irrigation, with a climate of short and sunny winters and long summers. Tucson is in the Santa-Cruz Valley, with four churches and five newspapers, gas, ice, and water works, a tannery and a. smelter, and a large trade with Sonora. Prescott stands at an elevation of 5,700 feet, with a bracing and salubrious climate, and in a region rich in mines and in magnificent mountain-scenery. Railroads. — The Southern Pacific runs from Deming through the Chiricahua mountains to Tucson and Maricopa, and thence along the Gila The Atlantic & Pacific Railway runs through northern Arizona. At the Needles MOQUI PUEBLOS. INSCRIPTION ROCK. to Yuma. it crosses the Colorado on a remarkable cantilever bridge, and enters California. other minor routes are also in operation. Several STATISTICS. Settled at . . Arkansas Post Settled in . . . . 1685 Founded by .... Frenchmen Admitted to the United States, 435. 41o 484,471 802, 525 210,606792, 17s 10,350 416,279386,246 1,125,385 Population in i860, Population in 1870, Population in 1880, White, . Colored, . . . American-born, Foreign-born, . Males, . . Females, . . . Population in 1800, - Population to the square mile, 15.1 Voting Population, . . . 182,977 Votefor Harrison (1888), 58,752 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,962 Net State debt, .... $I3>3°9 Real Property (1888). . 878,500,000 Personal Property (1888) $48,000,000 Area (square miles), . . . 53.85° U. S. Representatives (1883) . . 5 Militia (disciplined) 2,118 Counties, ¦ 76 Post-offices, Railroads (miles), 2,156 Manufactures (yearly), $7,000,000 Operatives, 4i5°° Yearly Wages, .... $925,35= Farm Land (in acres), 12,061,541 Farm-Land Values, . .$74,240,655 Farm Products (yearly), . §45,000,000 Colleges, 4 School-Population, . . . 4°4,379 School Attendance, . . 141,5°° Public Libraries, . I Volumes, . ... 20,000 Newspapers, 185 Latitude,. . . . 3V to 36° 30' N. Longitude, . . 89°45' »«V W, Temperature, .... 7'A° to 980 Mean Temperature (Little . Rock), 63° Chief Places and Their Populations (in 1890). The first civilized peo ple to enter the land of the Arkasans Indians were the Spanish men-at-arms of Hernando de Soto, who crossed the Mississippi just below Helena, in 1 541, and remained in the country several months. The lit tle army marched into the Boston Mountains, and then turned south across the Ar kansas, and followed the Ouachita River into Louisiana. The next European visitor was Marquette, who, in 1673, with Joliet, descended the Mississippi to the Arkansas River and made a map of the region. Hennepin was possibly the next explorer, in 1680. LaSalle in 1682 stopped at the Quapaw Village, at the mouth of the Arkansas, and took possession in the name of Louis XIV., King of France. The first white settlement was made in 1686, at Arkansas Post, by Frenchmen, from a party led by the Chevalier de Tonti. In 1 718 John Law obtained a grant of land twelve miles square on the Arkansas River, near the Quapaw Village, which he erected into a Duchy and colonized with a company from Germany and France ; but his scheme failed and the settlement was abandoned. In 1 763 the Province of Louisiana, including Arkansas, was ceded to Spain, and remained in her pos session until 1800, when it again became a French province. At the census of 1798 there were 368 persons in the Com mand of Arkansas, a district larger than the present State. Arkansas became a part of the United States in 1803, by the purchase of Louisiana, and it was formed, with the lower part of Missouri, into the District of New Madrid. Three years later, the lower part of this District was laid off as the District of Arkansaw. In 1812 Louisiana became a State and the remainder of the French cession was organized as the Missouri Territory of which Arkansa s -formed *e eighth county. The Territory of Arkansaw was created in 1819; and General James TEN Little Rock, Fort Smith, . . Pine Bluff, . . Hot Springs, Helena, . . . Texarkana, . . Eureka Springs, Arkadelphia, . Fayetteville, . Dardanelle, . 22,43611,291 9.952 7,"5 5.i8«i3.486 5,000 3, SCO 3,000 3,000 6o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HOT SPRINGS : HELL'S HALF ACRE. Miller of New Hampshire was the first governor, appointed by President Monroe. At this time the Quapaw Indians held the central part of the State, which was obtained from them by treaty in 1824, and partly occupied for several years by the Chocktaws. The Cherokee Nation after 181 7 held the northwest part (formerly the Osage country), which they gave up in 1828. The first legislature met at Arkansas Post, the capital until 1821, when the seat of government passed to Little Rock. The census of 1820 gave the Territory a population of 14,255. Arkansas became a State in 1836, its first governor being James S. Conway. It then had a population of 47,700. At the outbreak of the Civil War the sentiment of the people was in favor of the Union ; but it soon turned, and in May, 186 1, an ordinance of secession was passed, and the State was admitted into the Southern Confederacy in the same month. Out of a voting population of 61,198 in i860, 50,000 enlisted in the Confederate service, while over 13,000 entered the Union service. The Confederate army of 30,000 men, under Van Dorn, was shattered in a long battle at Pea Ridge (March 6-8, 1862); and Curtis's victorious Union troops marched to Helena. Blunt and Herron defeated Hindman's Confederates at Prairie Grove (December 7, 1862), 1,000 men falling in each army. A few weeks later, a United-States fleet, after a long bombardment, captured the fortress of Arkansas Post and its garrison of 5,000 men. September 10, 1863, Gen. Steele occupied Little Rock, with the Army of Arkansas, and re-established the National authority. The most disastrous results arose from the guerilla warfare, which was peculiarly favored by the remote ness of this region from the main armies, and the rugged nature of the country. These marauders were despised alike by Union and Confederate troops, and the bitter feelings engendered lasted for many years, and helped make the "Reconstruction days" a dark period in Southwestern history. The State remained under military rule from 1865 until 1868, when a constitution was framed, and Arkansas again became a part of the Union. In the decade of the Secession War, the advance of the State was retarded greatly, but since the drums ceased to roll along the Arkansas Valley, and especially since the recon struction troubles passed away, a new era of growth has begun, with a noble progress in order and pros perity. State scrip has advanced in value, and is now at par ; the State debt has been reduced, and the county indebtedness adjusted ; schools have opened for both races ; and immigration and capital have increased, all contributing to an unprecedented growth. The com mon-school system has been so carefully guarded as to win the plaudit of .being among the best in the South. The most stringent and inevitable laws have latterly been made and enforced, against buying, selling or carrying weapons, and this CRESCENT SPRING. WHITE RIVER. NATURAL BRIDGE, THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 61 dangerous custom has to a great extent passed away. The vice of drunkenness has also been greatly abated by the prohibition laws, which are now enforced in nearly 50 counties. There were 1 12,000 slaves freed in Arkansas, and one-third of the population is of African descent. The Name of the State first appeared on Marquette's map in 1673, and belonged to an Indian tribe living on the Mississippi, near the mouth of the Arkansas River. Shea thinks that was a title given by the Algonquins to the Quapaw tribe ; and its mean ing is not known, the theories that it came from Arc {bow) Kansa (from the strong bows used by these Indians), or from Arc-en-sang, being purely fanciful. The name has been doubtfully interpreted as "Bow of Smoky Water." In 1881 it was "Resolved by both houses of the General Assembly : That the only true pronunciation of the name of the State is that received from the native Indians by the French, and committed to writing ; and that it should be pro nounced with the final s silent, the a with the Italian sound, and the accent on the first and last syllables— being the pronunciation -- formerly universal and now still most commonly used." Arkansas is known as The Bear State, from the number of these animals that once infested her forests. Her people used to be called Toothpicks, in playful allusion to the huge bowie-knives carried by the pioneers. The Arms of Arkansas (adopted in 1864) consist of a shield, upon which is embla zoned a steamboat, plough, bee-hive, and sheaf of wheat. This is borne on the breast of an eagle, who holds in his talons an olive-branch and a bundle of arrows. There is also an angel, inscribed "Mercy," and a sword, in scribed "Justice." The crest is the Goddess of Liberty, holding a wreath, and a pole with a liberty-cap, and nearly surrounded with radiant stars. The motto is Regnant Populi, ("The People Rule"). The Governors have been : Territorial: James Miller, 1819-25; Geo. Izard, 1825-9; John Pope, 1829-35; Wm. S. Fulton, 1835-6. State: James S. Conway, 1836-40; Archibald Yell, 1840-4; Thomas S. Drew, 1844-9; John S. Roane, 1849-52; John R. Hampton (acting), 1852; Elias N. Conway, 1852-60; Henry M. Rector, 1860-2; Thomas Fletcher (acting), 1862; Harris Flanagin, 1862-4; Isaac Murphy, 1864-8 ; Powell Clayton, 1868-71 ; Ozro A. Hadley (acting), 1871-3 ; Elisha Baxter, 1873-4; Augustus H. Garland, 1874-7; Wm. R. Miller, 1877-81 ; Thos. J. Churchill, 1881-2; James H. Berry, 1883-5; Simon P. Hughes, 1885-9; James P. Eagle, 1889-91. Descriptive. — Arkansas is larger '^'*;SS= ~40ST'- , — than England, New York, or Virginia ; _.- --C" ^*"v --' '^ **" . <.& JSS-- -., - and when settled as thickly as Massachusetts will have 12,000,000 inhabitants. The St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & Southern Railway divides the S^ate into highlands on the west and north, and lowlands on the east and south. The lowlands have an elevation of 300 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, while the highlands rise in places to 3,000 feet, the eastern portion and the "bottoms" containing the most fertile WHITE RIVER : COTTON BOAT. $&&£$&&'¦' '' FARMING IN ARKANSAS. 62 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ARKADELPHIA : OUACHITA COLLEGE. lands, best adapted to cotton. Portions of this area, along the large streams, remain sub ject to overflow, and are therefore not so healthful as the western and northern parts of the State. In the flat region between Little Rock and Memphis are great prairies devoted to grazing. South of the Arkansas the ridges have an east and west trend, and an elevation of 1,000 feet, rising in Polk County (Round and Rich Mountains) to 2,450 and 2,650 feet ; in Scott County (Poteau, Petit-Jean and Fourche Mountains), to from 2,450 to 2,850 feet, and in Logan County reaching 2,850 feet, in Magazine Mountain. Toward the east the land falls away until, at Little Rock, the hilly country has an elevation of but 500 feet. The mountainous region south of the Arkansas is adapted to fruit and cattle raising, and produces much cotton and corn. North of the Arkansas and at the eastern end of the highlands the country rises from the alluvial bottoms to the Blue Mountains (the eastern end of the Boston range), in Stone and Searcy counties, reaching an elevation of 1,800 feet. The north face of the Boston Mountains forms a steep escarpment, and the region to the north is here hilly and cut by deep gorges, and there gently undulating and covered by fertile fields. To the west the Boston Mountains broaden out and reach higher elevations, their spurs extending southward to near the Arkansas River, and the range con tinuing into the Indian Territory. On the south face, the mountains rise here and there in a series of steep and rugged cliffs and terraces to 3,000 feet above tide. The St. -Louis & San-Francisco Railway crosses the range between Fort Smith and Fayetteville, with costly tunnels and galleries. Different sec tions and spurs of the Boston Mountains have local names. The mountainous region and the area lying north of the Boston range form one of the most remarkable apple-growing districts in the United States. The rich farms of the north are devoted to apples and corn, wheat and clover, and oats. Much cotton is also raised, but agriculture is not so completely given over to it here as it is south of the Boston Mountains. This part of the State is abundantly supplied with the finest springs of clear cold water. The streams of Arkansas navigable by steamboats aggregate 3,250 miles in length. The Mississippi winds along the eastern border for 40S miles. There are steamboat lines from Little Rock to Memphis, St. Louis, Cincinnati and New Orleans. The chief danger is from snags, but these are torn out of the rivers, by patrolling snag-boats owned and manned by the United- States Govern ment. There are 16 steamboats on the rivers, carrying 60,000 passengers yearly, and 230,000 tons of freight. The Arkansas is a noble stream, 1,600 miles long. After breaking through the Colorado canons it flows through Kansas and the Indian Territory", aug mented by the Canadian (900 miles), the Cimarron (650 miles), and the Neosho (450 miles) ; and divides Arkansas into nearly equal portions. It is navigable to Little Rock, Fort Smith, and (in high water) Fort Gibson, 462 miles. Grain was brought FORT SMITH FAYETTEVILLE: ARKANSAS INDUSTRIAL UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 63 HOT SPRINGS I ARMY AND NAVY HOSPITAL. down from Kansas in light-draught steamboats, in 1878. It is 309 miles by river from Fort Gibson to Wichita, Kansas. In January, June, and November disastrous floods some times visit this great valley. The White River, 700 miles long, is .navigable from the Mississippi up to Batesville, 280 miles ; and in spring boats can ascend to Forsythe, Missouri (502 miles). The bottom-lands are rich in cot ton, corn and wheat. The Ouachita may be ascended at high water to Arkadelphia, 445 miles ; and at other seasons to Camden, 369 miles. Black River is navigable to Poplar Bluff, 311 miles; the St. Francis, to Wittsberg, 135 miles; Red River, for 120 miles; the Saline, to Mount Elba, 125 miles; and Bayou Bartholo mew for 175 miles. The rivers and lakes abound in perch and suckers, buffalo and cat fish, bass and trout, crappie and salmon, pike and pickerel, and other valuable food-fish. The world-renowned Hot Springs of Arkansas are 55 miles southwest of Little Rock, and reached by a branch railway from Malvern, on the Iron-Mountain route. The main street lies in the narrow gorge between Hot-Springs Mountain and West Mountain : and has on one side a long line of hotels and stores, and on the other nearly a score of bath-houses, some of which are large and costly brick buildings, with many enamelled por celain tubs. The little valley is about 600 feet above the sea, and near the Ouachita River, whose vast valley is over looked from the Government observatory. Ten thousand people come here yearly, to seek benefit from the remark able curative waters ; and a city of 12,000 inhabitants has risen here, with many small villas and cottages occupied by chronic invalids. The springs up on the mountain-side are piped down to the bath-houses, so hot that cold water has to be added in the tubs. Heated vapors rise from the water, and carbonic-acid gas bubbles up through it. Thick layers of tufa have been deposited by the springs. The hot springs along the creek are used for drinking. The waters are beneficial in cases of diseases of the skin, blood and nerves, and for rheumatism and syphilis, but often prove harmful in acute diseases of the heart, lungs and brain. After three weeks of daily bathing, the patient rests for a week, and then takes another three weeks. The medicinal virtue of these waters has been ascribed mainly to their high temperature and their purity. They carry some silica and carbonate of lime, and very small proportions of some other minerals in solution. The 73 springs vary in temperature from 930 to 1680, (hot enough to cook eggs) and pour out daily 500,000 gallons of clear, tasteless and odorless water. The United-States Government owns the springs and a valu able reservation at this Arkansas Bethesda, and has established here a large Army and Navy Hospital, where hundreds of disabled officers and soldiers are sent every year, generally returning to the service cured and fit for duty. The Senate has under discussion a proposition for founding here also an immense hospital for the ailing veterans of the Soldier's Homes. The Hotel Eastman, the chief of the Hot- Springs hotels, opened in 1890, is a mag nificent semi-Moresque structure, practically fire-proof, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, and partly surrounding a pleasant park and grounds. It can entertain 800 HOT SPRINGS : CENTRAL AVENUE. HOT SPRINGS: THE BATH HOUSES. 64 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HOT SPRINGS : HOTEL EASTMAN. guests, and has accommodations as low as $3 a day. All the resources of modern hotel science have been drawn upon to make this great inn as luxurious as possible. The value of the property exceeds half a million dollars. The parlors are grand, and so are the dining- rooms, ordinary and rotunda. For the men there are special parlors and -reading-rooms, card-rooms, and the billiard-hall ; and the ladies also have their own parlors and reading-room. The 500 guest-rooms are furnished in antique oak and cherry. A short bridge across a street leads to the hotel bath-house, with its eight parlors and forty bath-rooms, abounding in brass and marble and Roman porcelain. Immensely broad verandas look out over the park, and there are broad balconies on the roof. The observatory tower rises like a mina ret, 200 feet above the city, and looks out over the mountains and the far-away Ouachita River, flashing along its dreamy valleys. The Eastman is one of the model resorts of the world. Within a few miles of Hot Springs are the Potash Sulphur, Mountain-Valley, Gillen's White-Sulphur and other "celebrated springs, each with its hotel and other accommodations. Eureka Springs, founded in 1879, in the White-River Mountains, is now a city and health- resort, visited by invalids suffering from rheumatism, dyspepsia, cancer and Bright's disease. The surrounding country is picturesque, with its high limestone cliffs and deep caverns and mountain-views. Ravenden Springs flow from a high cliff, in the north, cold and clear, and beneficial in cases of dyspepsia. The Searcy Springs are white sulphur, chalybeate and alum. The Electric Springs, near the Frisco Line, and the Indian Springs, near Neosho, are among the other health-resorts of Arkansas. The Climate of the hill and plateau counties is one of the most temperate in America, being free from the droughts of Southern summers and the rigors of Northern winters. The equability of the temperature has been likened to that of the south of France. Chan cellor Eakin pronounced the State, as to climate, " The Italy of America." It is favorable for the relief of bronchial and pulmonary complaints, rheumatism and catarrh. The short open winters are succeeded by long and balmy seasons, kindly to agriculture. The climate of the lowlands, especially in the uncultivated regions, is malarious. The summer mean temperature is from 760 to 8o°, rising to 8o° and 88° in the southeast ; and the winter mean is from 28° to 400, north of the Boston Mountains, and from 40° to 520 southward. The summer average at Little Rock is 71. 50; the winter average is 48. 40. The average for 20 years at Fort Smith is 60.9 1 °. Farming employs 83 per cent, of the people of Arkansas, which is the most exclusively agricultural State in the Union. It has 100,000 farms, with a larger percentage of products to value of farms than in almost any other State. Among the articles produced yearly are 600,000 bales of cotton, valued at $26,000,000; 900,000 bushels of sweet potatoes; 1,000,000 pounds of tobacco; 42,000,000 bushels of corn, valued at $20,000,000 ; 2,000,000 bushels of wheat ; 5,000,000 bushels of oats; and 25,000 tons of hay. The State also yields molasses and sorghum, honey and wine. Five per cent, of the land is not tillable, and 32 per cent, is in cultivation. The tillable lands are divided into the alluvial plains of the river valleys, the prairie land, and the uplands. The river bottoms are remarkable for fertility. Most of the upland regions have a fertile though thinner soil. The agricultural implements are generally crude, as are the methods of cultivation, especially in the remote districts. Marked improvements, LITTLE ROCK : LAND OFFICE ST. L. . I. M. & S. R. R. THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 65 however, have been made in this line in the last few years by the introduction of improved machinery and a more thorough system of cultivation. The hilly and mountainous north western region is admirably adapted to fruit-growing. Apples as fine as any in the Union are raised here, and peaches are an almost spontaneous crop, while grapes, cherries and other small fruits flourish. It is only in recent years fruit-culture has received much attention, and this promises soon to be one of the most, productive fruit-regions in the country. There are about 30,000 square miles of timber land in Arkansas, the most abundant being the yellow pine, which is commonly sold in northern markets J, under the name of "Georgia pine." There are 15,000 square miles of pine land. The cypress is found in the swamps of the east and south. Different species of oaks abound, the white oaks being the most numerous and valuable. Yellow poplar occurs in the east, and cedar is abundant in the northern moun tains. Other valuable woods are walnut, cherry, sweet gum, hickory, beech, maple, elm and ash. Persimmon, pecan, catalpa, sycamore, buckeye, dogwood, and locust are some of the other common varieties. From these forests, $20,000,000 worth of lumber is cut yearly, large shipments being made to Europe. The woods are well-stocked with game, the deer and wild turkeys of the Deer Range, beyond Black River, the foxes and deer of the Pine-Bluff country, the bear and deer of the Pennington Forest, the panthers and wolves, bear and deer of the Fort- Smith region. The domestic live-stock is valued at $25,000,000, and includes 320,000 horses and mules, 825,000 cattle, 225,000 sheep and 1,600,000 swine. The winterless years of Arkansas are peculiarly favorable for farmers, since the plough need never be idle. Their fruits and vegetables are the first in the Western markets. The apples raised here have no superiors for beauty and flavor ; and grapes and peaches are equally successful in this land of temperate and long-enduring sunshine. Arkansas is fourth among the States in the value of her crops per acre cultivated, being surpassed only by-Rhode Island, Massa chusetts and Louisiana. There are United- f * MR States land offices at Little Rock and Dar- danelle, Camden and Harrison. Large ARKANSAS SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND. LITTLE ROCK : LITTLE ROCK \ DEAF-MUTE INSTITUTE. STATE INSANE ASYLUM. areas of land are still open, 5,000,000 acres of United-States domain standing ready for grants to actual settlers. The State has 2,000,000 acres ; and the railroads also hold enormous tracts of land-grants, ready for sale at low prices and on easy terms of payment. In 1853 Congress granted a vast area of land to the St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & Southern Railway ; and after the Secession storm, this grant was confirmed, in 1866. On these millions of acres, stretching like a baldric from northeastern to southwestern Arkansas, the railroad has settled a great number of farmers, selling their lands at low prices, and on long time. The climate is favorable for agricultural pursuits, with a season of cultivation extending from February to November ; and the fertile soil offers unusual inducements to immigrants. Another great tract of 800,000 acres now open to settlement pertains to the Little-Rock & Fort- Smith Railroad, whose line it follows up the beautiful and broad Arkansas Valley, productive of cotton and oats, corn and wheat, and the best of fruits and vegetables. This rich belt lies between the Magazine Mountains 66 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LITTLE ROCK : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. on the south, and the Boston Mountains on the north, in the heart of the State, and is fast developing into a populous and prosperous farming region. The land offices of these com panies are at Little Rock, under the superintendence of Col. Thomas Essex. The Finances of Arkansas were seriously affected by the profligate expenditures of the carpet-bag governments during the Reconstruction era, and in 1874, Gov. Garland found the treasury empty, and a great public debt outstanding. The rising tide of prosperity throughout the State has swept away this unfortunate condition of finance, and brought in a securer and happier condition of affairs. The entire debt, outside of that owed to the United States, will be retired in a few years. The oldest incorporated bank in Arkansas is the First National Bank, whose building at Little Rock is the finest for the pur pose within the borders of the State. The First National Bank is under the presidency of H. G. Allis, one of the foremost public men of the State, and a firm supporter of every wise enterprise. The institution has grown with the growth of the community, and now has a capital of $500,000, with a surplus fund and undivided profits exceeding $100,000, and resources of $1,750,000. Minerals. — A geological reconnaissance of the State was begun in 1858-9, under Dr. David Dale Owen, and resumed in 1887, when a complete geological survey was undertaken under the direction of Dr. John C. Branner. This survey has shown that the chief minerals are coal, lignite, manganese, marble, limestone, granite and other building stones, Mexican onyx, novaculites, aluminum ore, gypsum, chalk, fertilizing marls, saline and mineral waters, china and pottery clay. Slate has been quarried ; and the iron ore of Lawrence County was once utilized. Zinc occurs in the north, and antimony is mined in Sevier County. A copper-mine has been opened in Searcy County ; and steatite is found in Saline County. The gray, pink and variegated Arkansas marble is of the same character as the Tennessee marble, and occurs in great quantity and in good condition for quarrying. No marble industry has been attempted here. The manganese region is one of the most productive and valuable in North America, the ore being especially adapted to the manufacture of Bessemer steel. The blue granites cover twelve square miles, and the stone is remarkably beautiful and strong, being well adapted to architectural work, as well as for paving. The novaculites (or whetstone rocks) are found only in this State, where they cover a large area, in Hot-Spring, Garland, Montgomery and Polk counties. The finer whetstones used by dentists, jewelers and engravers, and all our razor-hones, come from this region. Chalk, such as that used in Europe in making Portland cement, occurs in Little-River County, while the finest of plastic, refractory and alum clays abound in the centre and south. The coal is especially valuable, and available for many uses. Some is bituminous and some semi-anthracite. It occurs irr workable quantities in eight of the western counties. The coal industry is being rapidly developed. The total product for 1887 was 129,600 tons, while that for 1888 was 276,871 tons. Lignite abounds in the south, especially about Camden. The distribution of Arkansas minerals is given in detail in the reports of the Geological Survey. Government. — The governor is elected every two years. The Legislature meets biennially. There are 32 senators and 92 representatives. The Judiciary is composed of the Supreme Court, with five justices; the chancery court; and 16 circuit courts. The Eastern District United-States Court sits at Little Rock ; the Western District, at Fort Smith. The State LITTLE ROCK : BOARD OF TRADE. THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 67 House is a small classic building, with wings, looking down on the Arkansas River, at Little Rock. It was founded in 1833. At Little Rock stands a monument, erected by legislative order, to commemorate the public services of Ambrose H. Sevier, delegate of Arkansas in Congress from 1827 to 1836, and United-States Senator from 1837 until 1848. The State Insane Asylum, Deaf-Mute Institute, and School for the Blind are on the beau tiful pine-hills south and west of Little Rock, viewing the city, the river, and the distant mountains. Here also is the State Penitentiary, whose 600 convicts are managed on the lease system, in convict-camps, except about 75, who remain in the prison. Education. — Arkansas is paying more for free-school education, in proportion to its taxable property, than any other State. Fifteen million dollars is spent yearly for schools, and many buildings have been erected recently. Between 1874 and 1890 the property of the State per cent. , and increased 100 per cent., but the school-appropriations increased 2400 the enrollment of school-children rose from 59,000 to 205,000. The Arkansas Industrial University, founded in 1868, with the United-States land grant of 1862, has 30 instructors, and 85 students (of both sexes) in the regular college course, and 348 in the preparatory departments. Pro vision is made for 1,000 beneficiary students, to be sent from the various counties, in proportion to their popula- uttle rock : first baptist church. tion, with appointments from the county judges. The courses are engineering, classical, agricultural and normal, with manual training shops. The young men are uniformed, and form a battalion, commanded by a United-States Army officer. The University buildings are spacious and modern, on a breezy plateau near Fay- etteville, in northwestern Arkansas, and overlooking the picturesque Boston Mountains. The Branch Normal College is a department of the University, established in 1875 at P'ne Bluff, with several buildings in a twenty-acre park. It has about 180 students. The medi cal department of the University began its career in 1 879, in Little Rock, and has 70 students. At Little Rock, also, are the Little-Rock University (Methodist), Philander- Smith College (for colored people) and the Arkansas Female College, occupying the former residence of Gen. Albert Pike, the poet and author. Cane-Hill College is at Boonsboro, and Hendrix College is at Conway. Among other institutions are Ouachita College (Bap tist) at Arkadelphia, with 250 students; and the colleges at Batesville (Presbyterian), Judsonia, Searcy, Morrilton, Altus and other towns. Chief Cities. — Little Rock, the capital and chief commercial city, is near the centre of the State, on the broad and noble Arkansas River, which here winds through a rich rolling country. A little rock near the shore here was the first bit of stone to be seen on the western bank from the Mississippi to this point, and so the old voyageurs called the place for this landmark. It is a healthy, handsome and high-placed city, with broad granite- paved and electric-lighted streets, lined with fragrant magnolias, and traversed by horse- cars, a spacious wharfage for the packet-steamers, and 30 churches. The city has an active Board of Trade, and by its various railway and river connec tions receives 70,000 bales of cotton every season, to be han dled in its compresses. The local trade reaches $25,000,000 a year. The United-States and Pulaski-County Court- Houses are handsome and costly buildings. The United-States Arsenal, where two companies of artillery are stationed, is celebrated for its noble old trees, and has one of the finest parade-grounds in America. Fort Smith, on the upper Arkansas, has four newspapers and 16 churches, with several railways. At the old frontier- post on this site Gens. Taylor, Hancock and Ar- buckle were stationed. Helena is a railway terminus little-rock university. 68 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and shiretown, on the Mississippi River, and has some manufacturing, and large shipping interests. Pine Bluff is an important cotton port, on the Arkansas, with many negroes. The Railroads of Arkansas had but 85 miles of track in i860, from Memphis to Madi- _ n son, and from Little Rock to Duvall's Bluff. The St. -Louis, Iron-Moun tain & Southern Railway owns up wards of 800 miles of track in Ar kansas, running from the Missouri line (at Moark) to Texarkana, diag onally across the State (303^ miles); with minor lines . from Knobel to Helena, 140 miles ; from Bald Knob to Memphis, 93 ; and to Warren, Nashville, Hot Springs, Camden and Batesville. The same company (the Missouri-Pacific system) also controls the great route running south eastward across the State from Fort Smith to Little Rock and Arkansas City. The St. -Louis, Arkansas & Texas Railway, the "Cotton-Belt Route," runs from opposite Cairo LITTLE ROCK : ARKANSAS RIVER. several Francisco western Springs through Pine Bluff and Camden to Texarkana (and Waco, Texas), with branches, and 417 miles of line in Arkansas. The St. Louis & San- Railroad, from Seligman to Fort Smith, has a large trade in the north- counties ; and the Kansas-City, Fort-Scott & Gulf Line runs from Mammoth to Memphis. Lines are being built from Little Rock to Fayetteville, to Clarendon, to Hot Springs, to Alexandria, La., to Salem, Mo and to Fort Smith, south of the Arkansas River. The Manufactures of Arkansas are small, as compared with the quantities of raw material found within her borders. Her coal, lumber, clays, marble, chalk, building stone, whet stone, manganese and cotton, will undoubtedly cause the manu facturing interests to increase in the future. In 1880 there were in Arkansas 1,202 manufacturing establishments employ ing about 5,000 hands, and a capital of $3,000,000. In 1887 the number of factories had increased to 2,400, employing 16,000 hands and capitalized at $58,000,000. Flour and lumber mills employ the great bulk of this investment. LITTLE ROCK : COURT-HOUSE. "We know that Arkansas abounds in all the material elements of wealth and greatness ; that she has over 2,000,000 acres of State lands to be donated to actual settlers, and that there are within her borders 5,000,000 acres of public lands of the United States subject to homestead entry, to be had in 160-acre tracts at a cost of not over twenty dollars per tract. That many of these lands have gathered fertility from the repose of centuries ; that the cli mate of Arkansas is equable, genial and healthful, and free from extremes of heat and cold. We know that these lands will pro duce fine Indian corn, wheat, oats, clover and other grasses, vegetables and melons, berries and small fruit in rich abundance, not to mention cotton, in which we excel every other State in the quantity grown per acre and the quality of the fibre ; or apples, in the excellence, beauty, flavor and value of which we have ex celled in all competition at New Orleans, Louisville, St. Louis, and Boston at the meeting of the American Pomological Society in 1886. We are rich in timber, having 30,000 square miles of grand forests of the most valuable varieties; rich in minerals, having over 12,000 square miles of coal fields, an abundance of iron, manganese, zinc, copper, marble, granite, lime stone, lithograph and soapstone." — Gov. Simon P. Hughes. LITTLE ROCK : POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM-HOUSE. 124,816117,729 . . 0 $816,500,000 ) §196,000,000 . . 158,360 ;i883), 6 . . 2,523 plored by Cortez. In 1542 Cabrillo followed the Pacific coast up to Cape Mendo cino, which he named in honor of the Viceroy of New Spain, Mendoza; and in 1579 Sir Francis Drake went even farther north, in the Golden Hind, and called the country New Albion. In 1602 Vizcaino discovered the harbors of San Diego and Monterey, "a narrow strip of sea-board with green and grizzly mountains for a background, all opening toward the sun-waves." Lower California was occupied by Jesuit stations from 1697 to 1767, when King Charles III. replaced them with Franciscans. "When these also were supplanted by the Dominicans, they withdrew to Upper California, and erected more than a score of paternal missions among the Indians. The founder of Catholic Cali fornia was Father Junipero Serra, who established the mis sion of San Diego, in 1769. The heroic priests gathered in and Christianized the naked savages, teaching them to plant vineyards and orchards, build houses and churches, weave cloth and work in metals. In 1784 Junipero died, after fifty-four years of priesthood, and was buried in the Mis sion Church of San Carlos, in the Carmelo Valley. In 1770 Junipero founded the mission of San Carlos, afterwards in the sea-viewing flowery Carmelo Valley, near Monterey ; and San Carlos Borromeo, close to the beach at Monterey. San Antonio de Padua, with estates 150 miles around, in the Sierra Santa-Lucia, was founded in 1771, a few weeks before San Gabriel Arcangel arose, among the orange-groves and vineyards near Los Angeles, to become the richest of the missions. San Luis Obispo de Tolosa was established in 1772, by Fra Junipero, and grew very wealthy from its vast fields along the ocean. In the summer of 1776, when the Americans on the other side of the continent were at bayonet-push with Settled at . Settled in . . . Founded by . . Admitted to the U. S., Population in 1850, In i860 In 1870, In 18" . San Diego 1769 Spaniards. 1850 • 92,597 ¦ • 379.994 560,247 864, 604 White 767,181 Colored 97,513 American-born, 571,820 Fnreign-born 292,874 Males, 518,176 Females, . 346,518 In 1890 (census), . . . 1,204,002 Population to the square mile, 5.5 Voting Population, , . Vote for Harrison (18! Vote for Cleveland (1.: Net State Debt, . . Real Property (1888) , . Personal Property (188J Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, . « Post-offices, . . 1,368 Railroads (miles), .... 4,250 Manufactures (yearly), $116,227,973 Operatives, ... 43, 799 Yearly Wages, . . $21,070,585 Farm Land (acres, in 1880) 16,593,742 Farm-Land Values, $262,051,282 Colleges and Profes'nal Schools, 13 School-Population, . . 275,302 School-Attendance, . . 143,733 Public Libraries 16 Volumes, ... . . 553,000 Newspapers, .... 536 Latitude, . . 32°28' to42° N. Longitude, . H4°30' to I24°45' W Temperature 26*" to 112° Mean Temperature (San Francisco), . 550 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU LATIONS, (1890.) San Francisco, . 297,990 Los Angeles, . 5°.394 Oakland, 48,540 Sacramento, 26,272 San Jose, . . 18,027 San Diego, .16,953 Stockton, 14,376 Fresno, . . . . . 12,000 Alameda, 11,000 Vallejo, 5,904 7° MONTEREY : OLD MISSION. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. England's armies, the Mission de los Dolores de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Asis came into existence, on the site of the present metropolis of the Pacific. Junipero also occupied the lovely valley south of the Bay, with the mission of Santa Clara de Assis, "virgin, abbess and matriarch," which in time had a magnificent church, with rich silver, and 170,- 000 head of live-stock. San Juan Capistrano owned 45 miles of sea-front, and the groves and grain-fields extending back to the mountains. San Buena Ventura, established in 1782, held 1,500 square miles of rich land on the Santa-Barbara Channel. Twenty-seven miles northward, the.friars in 1786 founded the mission of Santa Barbara, famous for its sweet Spanish bells and rich gardens. La Purisima began in 1787, in the Coast Range, and was renowned for its swift and beautiful horses. Nuestra Sefiora de la Soledad(l79i) occupied the great plain Llano del Rey, 45 miles southeast of Monterey, and had an aqueduct five leagues long. Santa Cruz (1791) stood on the sea-ward rim of the valley in which the present city nestles. Its venerable church is now a stable. San Juan Bautista (1794), 30 miles northeast of Mon terey, was secularized 40 years later, having acquired great wealth. San Fernando Rey (1797) produced fine brandy, on the plain north of San Gabriel. San Miguel, on the Salinas, dates from the same year. San Jose (1797), 15 miles north of the present city, was famous for its grain, which the Russians on the northern coast bought. It had a church, watching over 3,000 Indians. Thegreat quad rangle of San Luis Rey de Francia was built by Father Peyri in 1 798. Santa Ines (1804), 40 miles north of Santa Barbara, was renowned for vast herds, and its property had a value of $800,000. San Rafael (1817) and San Francisco de Solano (1823) were the latest stations founded, and the only ones north of the Bay. There were Spanish military posts at San Diego, Mon terey, San Francisco and Santa Barbara, each with 70 soldiers and a few cannon, for the defence of the missions and pueblos against heathen Indians. For over half a century the calm life of these patriarchal monks and their obedient catechumens passed on almost with out a ripple. By 1803 the 18 missions had 15,562 Indian converts; and in 1831, the 21 missions had 18,683 converts, there being about 80,000 other Indians in California. After Mexico became independent of Spain, in 1822, her statesmen by degrees secularized the Californias, and in 1840 the missions were broken up. The ruins of their massive churches and cloisters, in simple and harmonious architecture, will remain for centuries as memo rials of the friars who designed them, and the Indians who erected their noble pillars and arches. When their clergy had been driven away, the Mission Indians were stripped of their lands by incoming settlers, and gradually fell a prey to the vices of civilization. Cali fornia now has 10,000 taxable Indians, and 5,000 more on reservations. At first a department of Spain, California in 1776 became one of the "Internal Provinces," and later a part of the Western Province, whose capital was at Chihuahua or Arispe. Afterwards it received an ad ministration of its own, with Monterey as the capital ; and here Gov. Pablo Vicente de Sola and the mili tary and ecclesiastical heads assembled in 1822, and resolved that California should no longer be a Spanish province, but should cast her lot with Mexico. Two 6anta Barbara mission. years later, she followed Mexico in the change to a MONTEREY : OLD CUSTOM HOUSE. THE STA TE OF CALIFORNIA. 71 MEXICAN BOUNDARY MONUMENT. and Kit Carson , and were driven republican government, and became a Mexican Territory, ruled by a Political Chief or Territorial Deputation. The only trade between California and the outside world was monopolized for many years by Boston, whose ships made two-years' voyages hither, laden with notions, groceries and cotton- goods, and returning with furs, hides and tallow. It was their cus tom to coast along from port to port, as shown in Dana's Two Years Before the Mast. The New- England whaling-ships also frequented these ports, and many of their sailors settled on ranches, with native wives. About the year 1845 there were a few adventurous Anglo-Saxons on the coast, and west of the Sierra Nevada perhaps 300 American trap pers and pioneers. It was believed that England and France coveted the Pacific slope, but the American Government (in constant communi cation with Consul Larkin) believed that the Californians would peace fully join the United States. In 1846 young Capt. Fremont, U. S. A., reached California overland, on a scientific expedition, with sixty-two men into Oregon by Gen. Castro. A few Americans north of San-Francisco Bay, ignorant of Larkin's negotiations, and stirred up by false rumors that they were to be attacked by the Californians, rebelled against the Mexican Government, and hoisted the famous Bear Flag (now preserved by the Pioneer Society), showing a bear on a white ground, with the words California Republic. Fremont, who always claimed that he was obeying instructions received from the United-States Government, headed a battalion of riflemen at Sutter's Fort ; advanced to Sonoma, which had already been captured by the American insurgents, with its sixteen cannon ; spiked the ten guns of the San-Francisco presidio ; and , started with 160 mounted rifles in pursuit of Gen. Castro. The plans of Lar kin and Gen. Vallejo, looking to a peaceful cession, now ended. July 7th, 1846, the American frigate Savannah captured Monterey, and Com. Sloat proclaimed California to be a part of the United States ; and July 8th, the Portsmouth raised the Stars and Stripes at San Francisco. The Congress cap tured Santa Barbara ; and Stockton drove Castro from Los Angeles into Sonora. But the South soon rose, under Gen. Flores ; recaptured its towns ; and defeated Kearney, then nearing San Diego after marching across the coloma : continent from St. Louis. Several sharp battles were fought before this Marshall statue. r;smg was quelled. Meantime, the Mormon Battalion, Stevenson's New- York volunteers, and other commands had entered California, and made it secure. After the cession of this region to the United States, by the treaty of 1848, bitter debates ensued in Congress, as to the introduction of slavery, amid which the people assembled (Sep tember, 1849) and framed a constitution excluding slavery, and under this document Cali fornia was admitted as a State, in 1850. It had already won the name of El Dorado. January 24, 1848, a piece of native gold was found by Marshall at Coloma. California's dreamy pastoral life was over ; and by the close of the year miners assailed the foot-hills, from the Tuolumne to the Feather River. During 1849, 100,000 men from the East crossed the plains or the isthmus of Panama, or rounded Cape Horn, the land of gold. Between 1850 and 1853, $65,000,000 was mined each year; and from 60,000 to 100,000 men re- at work, at first along the rivers, whose gravelly beds and bars abounded in the precious yellow metal, and after 1851 in the hydraulic mining of the high gravels. The adventurers and free outlaws of the whole world flocked to the new Eldorado, and wild speculation, gambling, robbery, murder and other evil things were practiced by experts, and hardly to seek of gold m ained 8ANTA CRUZ : MISSION CHURCH. 7^ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN FRANCISCO : MISSION DOLORES. hindered by law. The lynch law of the mines culmi nated in the famous Vigilance Committee. May 14, 1856, an ex-convict and politician, James P. Casey, shot down in a San-Francisco street James King of William, and five days later 24 companies of the Vigi lance Committee took the murderer from prison, and tried and hung him, together with Cora, another male factor. Gov. Johnson proclaimed San Francisco to be in insurrection. After inflicting condign punishment on I several bold criminals, and banishing and frightening others to foreign lands, the Vigilance Committee disbanded, August 18, 1856, making a sol emn final parade of 5,137 armed and disciplined troops, with 3 batteries, 290 dragoons, and 33 companies of infantry. The overland mail began to run in 1858, and crossed from Placerville to Atchison in 19 days. The pony mail commenced its trips in i860. When the Secession War broke out California had a Democratic governor, legislature, and Congressional delegation, and Albert Sidney Johnston commanded the Military Depart ment of the Pacific. Her senators had said that if civil war came, California would side with the South, or set up for herself. But the loyalty of the people to the United States, then so far away and so shattered, was quickly announced in vast and enthusiastic assem blies, addressed by patriotic orators. Loyal leagues rose all over the State and the few Southern politicians departed, or were consigned to the fortress of Alcatraz. The United States declined California's aid, mainly on account of her remoteness, but she raised seven regiments in 1 86 1, sending part of them East by steamship, and using others to gar rison the forts along the Pacific. At one time, the State forwarded $700,000 in gold to the Sanitary Commission. Chinamen have poured into California ever since 1850, and between 1852 and 1888 335,000 Asiatics arrived. The prohibition placed by the United-States Government upon this immigration hy sea, drove it through British Columbia and Mexico, and greatly reduced its volume. There are now 25,000 Chinamen in San Francisco alone, with six joss-houses, two theatres, and other strange Oriental features. The progress of California since the war has been marvellous, and challenges the attention of the nation. Yet it has not been without reverses. The mining-stocks listed in 1875 at $282,000,000 dropped within six years to $17,000,000. Consolidated Virginia fell from $75,000,000 to $1,000,000 and "California" from $84,000,000 to $351,000. In 1886 the "land boom" began in Southern California, where hundreds of towns were laid out and built, sometimes on desolate mesas or along the verge of the desert. While the tide ran full, millions of Eastern capital and thousands of immigrants came to the Pacific shores, and then the excessive inflation broke. There are now sixty towns in Los-Angeles County alone, with 79,350 town-lots, and an aggregate of 2,351 inhabitants. But during this speculative period, great improvements were made, and there can be little doubt that a healthier condition of the real- estate market will repopulate the deserted villages and re-fill the closed hotels. Recently there has been some talk among politicians and journalists of erecting a new State called Southern California. But El Dorado has a State pride rivalling those of .,, ,, ,,1AI„ SAN FRANCISCO: ENTRANCE TO GOLDEN-GATE PARK. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 73 MOUNT WHITNEY. Massachusetts and Virginia, and its people will repulse any effort at dismembering the Common wealth, which is the largest in the Republic, except Texas. The Name of this great State was the inven tion of a Spanish novelist, who in Las Serguas de Esplandian (published in 1 510) made mention of "the great island of California, where an abund ance of gold and precious stones is found." Fan ciful philologists have derived the meaning of the word from the Spanish calida fornax, or caliente fornaza, meaning "a hot furnace," and very applicable to Lower California. The pet names, The Land of Gold, The Golden State and Eldorado are of obvious origin. The State Seal represents Minerva, who sprung full-grown from the brain of Jupiter, as California entered the Union as a State, without Territorial probation. She is seated on a rock, with helmet and corselet, shield and spear. At her feet crouches a grizzly bear ; and beyond a miner bends to work, with pick, rocker, and bowl. The Sacramento River widens out, bearing ships, typifying commercial greatness ; and in the background the sun appears, and the great Sierra Nevada. The motto is Eureka, a Greek word meaning ' ' I have found it. " The Governors included ten Spanish Dons, from 1767 to 1822, and twelve Mexicans, from 1822 to 1846. Then followed the era of United-States military governors, Sloat, Stockton, Fremont, Kear ney, Mason, and Riley. The governors of the State have been : Peter H. Burnett, 1849-51 ; John McDougall, 1851-2; John Bigler, 1852-6; J. Neely Johnson, 1856-8; John B. Weller, 1858-60; Milton S. Latham, i860; John G. Downey, 1860-2; Le- land Stanford, 1862-3; Frederick F. Low, 1863-7; Henry H. Haight, 1867-71 ; Newton Booth, 1871-5 ; Romualdo Pacheco, 1875; William Irwin, 1875-80; Geo. C. Perkins, 1880-3; George Stoneman, 1883-7; Washington Bart- lett, 1887 ; R. W. Waterman, 1887-91 ; and H. H. Markham, 1891-5. Descriptive. — California is 770 miles long, and from 150 to 330 miles wide, with more than double the area of New England. The coast -line equals the distance from Cape Cod to Charleston, S. C. The State fronts along the Pacific coast for over 1,000 miles. North of 400 is a wild and mountainous land, covered with stupendous forests. South of 350 much of the State is an unmitigated desert of arid mountains and sunken plains. Central California, between 350 and 400, has one third of the State's area. Prof. Whitney divides this region into four equal sections, by lines 55 miles apart. The Pacific is the first line, between which and the second lie the Coast Ranges. The Great Valley is the strip next to the eastward, ending at a line drawn from Visalia to Red Bluff. East of this the Sierra extends to the line drawn from Shasta to Mount Whitney ; and then the eastern slope falls away to the Great Basin. The State is traversed by the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, which interlock on the north and the south, between which extremes they swing wide apart, and enclose the Great Valley. yosemite : cathedral spires. The Sierra Nevada is the most majestic mountain range in MOUNT SHASTA. 74 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the United States, covering a length of 600 miles, from Mount San Jacinto to Mount Shasta (or 430 miles from the Tahachapi Pass to Lassen's Peak), and a breadth of from 75 to 100 miles, with long and gradual slopes on the west, cut by deep canons. The most imposing scenery is towards the south, where Mount Whitney and its alpine brethren lift their majestic granite spires. The delightful summer climate of California favors pleasure- travel in the Sierra, where the days are mild and rainless, and the air soft and clear. Thousands of tourists haunt the high valleys and lakes, encamping at great altitudes with out discomfort, and unvexed by the wild storms and long rain's which visit the Swiss Alps. Prof. Whitney remarks that the Alps would resemble the Sierra if most of their glaciers were melted away. The long grassy slopes leading up to the Swiss glaciers are replaced in California by vast forests, sweeping up to the snow-line. At the headwaters of King's River, the Sierra Nevada forks into two ridges, running southward, and separated by the tremendous Kern-River Canon. The main peaks of the eastern range are Mounts Kear- sarge, Tyndall, Williamson, and Whitney. Those of the eastern range are Mounts King, Gardner, and Brewer, and Kaweeah Peak. Mount Whitney is the highest peak in the United States, outside of Alaska, and was discovered by Brewer, Hoffman, and Clarence King, in 1864, and named for the State Geologist of California (now Prof. J. D. Whitney, of Harvard University). The first ascent took place in 1873. The height is 14,522 feet (Langley's measurement), 14,887 feet (Clarence King), or 14,898^ (Goodyear). The main peaks in the central Sierra Nevada pass 13,000 feet in height, and include the lonely Mounts Ritter and Maclure ; Mount Lyell's sharp and inaccessible pinnacle of granite, shooting up from a white waste of snow ; Mount Starr King, a steep granite cone ; Mount Conness, approached by a perilous knife-blade ridge ; and Mount Hoffman, front ing the south with amazing granite cliffs. Mount Dana's peak of red and green slate is often visited from Mono Pass, and thence the traveller may look out over hundreds of leagues of granite domes and snowy peaks and volcanic cones, with Mono Lake in the deep valley below. The Yosemite Valley is 3,950 feet high, on the Sierra, hemmed in by nearly vertical cliffs; and covers 36,011 acres, which Congress granted to California, in 1864, to be held as a State park. The Yosemite Fall descends 2, 600 feet in three sections, one of which is of 1,500 feet, vertical. There are also wonderful cascades on the Merced River, which flows through the valley ; and the exquisite Bridal-Veil Falls stripe the cliffs near Cathe dral Rock with a lace-like white band 900 feet high, swaying, veil-like, in the wind. No words can portray the stupendous rock, El Capitan, a block of bare granite 3,300 feet high, and visible for 50 miles out on the plains ; or the fantastic and colossal rock-carvings of the Spires, and the Royal Arches, and Sentinel Rock ; or the astonishing Half Dome, with its vertical cliffs 1,500 feet high. This gigantic trough, hollowed a mile deep in the mountains, recessed, buried in woods, jewelled with silvery falls, and overlooked by enor mous domes of rock, is one of the grandest of all Nature's temples, with features of sub limity and beauty unequalled by any other mountain-valley in the world. Yosemite is an Indian word, meaning Grizzly Bear. The neighboring Hetch-Hetchy Valley has many resemblances to the Yosemite, and heads into the great gorge of the Tuolumne River, which falls 4,650 feet within a score of miles, between cliffs a thousand feet high. The Carson and Johnson Passes, near Lake Tahoe, were the ancient freight-routes to Nevada. From this point for 160 miles south there are but five passes with trails across, two of them being near the head of the San Joaquin, and traversed only by Indians. The Kearsarge Pass, the highest in the State, crosses the great range three leagues north of Mount Tyndall, 12,000 feet above the sea, amid wonderful rock scenery. The Mono Pass, 30 miles east of the Yosemite Valley, and 10,765 feet high, is traversed by many tourists on the way to the ashy volcanic region of Mono Lake, amid lofty snowy peaks, glacier lakes, and falling streams. Bloody Canon leads eastward from the summit of the pass to the Mono plain. The counties of Mono and Inyo lie between the granite spires of the Sierra Nevada and THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. YOSEMITE VALLEY QROUP, 76 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. DONNER LAKE. the craggy Inyo Range, each of them rising 10,000 feet above the wonderfully picturesque valley, down which Owen's River flows, to sink in the dead sea of Owen's Lake. Forty miles eastward, across several parallel chains of mountains, and between the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges, the Amargosa River sinks into Death Valley (where a party of immigrants once starved to death), 150 feet below the sea, an alkaline desert in summer, and a mud-flat in winter. The Amargosa and Funeral Mountains lie east of Death Valley. The Inyo Range is lonelier than the Sierra, and forms with the White Mountains a continuous chain of 100 miles long. As the Sierra goes northward it broadens and loses elevation, and where the Central Pacific Railroad crosses, it sinks to 7,000 feet. Lassen's Peak, a volcanic cone 10,537 feet high, dominates the valleys of the north. Seventy miles northwest rises the magnificent snowy cone of Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet high, visible for more than a. hundred miles. Jets of steam and sulphurous gases emerging from Shasta recall former volcanic activity. The seven counties, Lassen, Shasta, Trinity, Humboldt, Del Norte, Siskiyou, and Modoc, north of the great valley, include a vast and thinly-populated country, rough and moun tainous, with dry and barren volcanic plains and lava-beds in the east, and the Siskiyou, Salmon, and Scott Ranges in the west. Humboldt has 700 square miles of redwood for ests, in which a score of sawmills are making slow inroads. The Coast Ranges form a vast assemblage of mountains, following the ocean-shore for over 400 miles, with almost treeless and waterless eastern slopes, and large streams and dense forests on their misty and rocky flanks toward the Pacific. This highland region, from 2,000 to 4,500 feet in altitude, and 40 to 70 miles in breadth, stretches from the iron- bound sea-coast to the Great Valley ; and contains many beautiful arable glens, dotted with graceful clumps of oaks, and overlooked by higher expanses of chapparal and the bare peaks of the range. The tributary ranges are numbered by scores, especially in the south, where rise the Cuyamarca Mountains, whose chief peak looks into Mexico and out to sea ; the San-Gabriel Mountains, running from the Cajon Pass to the Los- Angeles River; and the Santa-Ynez and Santa-Monica Ranges. The Santa-Lucia, San-Rafael, and San-Ber nardino Ranges form an almost continuous chain several hundred miles long. The Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range are cross-connected by the Tejon Mountains and the Sierra Madre, under various names, overlooking the valleys of Los Angeles. Los-Angeles County is two thirds the size of Massachusetts, and lies in the latitude of North Caro lina, in a climate-producing at once palms and bananas, apples and grapes, with roses blooming in winter, and summers cooler than in the Eastern cities. It includes a great series of valleys, falling from the Sierra Madre's snow-crested laby rinths of canons and ridges, 40 miles wide, to the blue waters of the Pacific. One of the chief features of the view from the San-Fran cisco region is the Contra-Costa hills, running from the Strait of Carquinez to Mount Hamilton, where it meets the Mount- Diablo Range. Mount Diablo's double-pointed crest, 3,856 feet high, is a famous landmark, and overlooks the Great Val ley, the open sea, and the line of the Sierra Nevada for 300 miles. Mount Tamalpais, north of the Golden Gate, may be ascended by a carriage-road from the San-Rafael Valley, and commands a wonderful view. Mount St. Helena, a flat-top ped extinct"vT5lcano, towers above the head of Napa Vallev. r ' YOSEMITE FALLS. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 77 DEVIL'S CANON. The Great Valley has a level ground of 450 miles long and 40 miles wide, covering 18,000 square miles. This huge elliptical basin is drained by the Sacra mento and San-Joaquin Rivers, the former flowing southward 320 miles from beyond Mount Shasta, and the San-Joaquin pouring northward 260 miles from Kern Lake. The Sacramento receives the Feather, American, Yuba and other rivers from the Sierra Nevada ; and is navigable for steamboats for 90 miles, to Sacramento, and for smaller steamers to Red Bluff, 160 miles farther. The San-Joaquin rises in the high Sierra, and enters the Great Valley at Millerton. It is navigable for steamboats as far as Stockton, and smaller boats can ascend to Tulare Lake. The united Sacramento and San-Joaquin enter the shallow Suisun Bay, and flow between its low tule- covered islands into San-Pablo Bay, an expansion of San-Francisco Bay. Lake Tahoe lies on the Sierra, 6,247 feet above the sea, abounding in fine trout, and with deep waters of exceptional purity and coldness. Mark Twain calls it "A sea in the clouds, whose royal seclusion is guarded by a cordon of sentinel peaks that lift their frosty fronts 9,000 feet above the level world." Tahoe is 22 by ten miles in area. Near by, the beautiful expanse of Donner Lake recalls a terrible tragedy of 1846-7. The Truckee River runs from Tahoe to Pyramid Lake, which has no outlet. Mono Lake, with its cen tral cluster of volcanic islands, and its odd-looking masses of tufa along the shores, covers an area of 14 by nine miles, with the Sierra Nevada towering over its crater-pitted plain on one side, and the frowning Inyo Range on the other. The intensely bitter and salty waters of this Californian Dead Sea are almost devoid of life. Tulare Lake receives the waters of King's River and the Sierra between its low and reedy banks, pouring down into the San-Joaquin in wet weather, and in dry times evaporating. Above are Lake Buena-Vista and Kern Lake. All these lakes have grown much smaller and sailer within ten years, as a result of irrigating canals taking away the water from the inflowing rivers. Tulare has lost nearly three fourths of its area, and settlers' claims fol low the receding waters. One may wade out for a mile, without getting more than knee- deep, to the hundreds of small islands and bunches of tule, the homes of millions of white birds of the gull species. Into Owen's Lake, Owen's River sinks and disappears. It has been falling for many years, and growing more bitter and poisonous. It covers about 120 square miles. Goose Lake covers 200 square miles, and contains many fish. Near the immense areas of sage-brush on the Madeline Plains, the bright waters of Honey Lake glimmer over nearly a hundred square miles, in the wet season, and sink into a mud-hole later. A few leagues distant is the deep and crystalline Eagle Lake, shadowed by sombre wooded mountains. About 75 miles north of San Francisco, Clear Lake flashes among the high hills, for a length of 25 miles, with an average width of six miles, and a deep and crystal tide, the home of myriads of fish. Uncle-Sam Mountain pushes its sandstone cliffs far out into the lake, forming the Narrows. Along the shores, vineyards blossom and pretty villas gleam among the trees ; and a steamboat plies up and down from many-mounded Lakeport to the bright village of Lower Lake. The Californian coast finds its chief haven in the noble Bay of San Francisco, 50 by nine miles in area, sheltered by two peninsulas from seven to 15 miles across, between whose sierra madre, from pasadena. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ends opens the strait of the Golden Gate, 400 feet deep, and four miles long. On the northern coast are Tomales Bay and Bodega Bay. Humboldt Bay, in the remoter north, has 40 miles of land-locked tidal area, entered by a narrow channel between roaring breakers. South of San Fran cisco open the harbors of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and San Diego, the latter of which is twelve miles long, and completely landlocked. Six light-houses beacon San-Francisco Bay, and seven shine out along the northern coast. The light-house on St. -George's Reef, Northwest Seal Rock, is one of the most remarkable in the world, rising, as it does, from a wave-swept rock far out in the sea. It cost above $800,000. The coast south of San Francisco has eleven light-houses, of which that on Point Loma, near San Diego, is the highest in the Republic. Eight leagues seaward of San Francisco rise the rocky islets of the Farallones, one of which towers 340 feet above the waves, and upholds a first-class light-house, with a powerful Fresnel light. Midway on the coast of California, about 125 miles south of San Francisco, is one of the mar vels of the continent. It is the Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, opened in 1 880, and now hardly equalled by any of the sea-shore resorts of the world, while in many respects it far surpasses all others. The building exemplifies the Gothic style of architecture, and is of enormous size, and equipped with every modern comfort and luxury. The great surrounding park shows the very perfection of landscape gardening, with avenues winding between lines of venerable live-oaks and pines, beds of rich flowers and tall cacti, down to the sandy shores of Mon terey Bay, where there is a very complete bathing establishment, divided into four great salt-water tanks, heated by steam to different temperatures. The beauty of the coast and mountain-scenery around Monterey, the abiding interest of the old capital of California under Spanish domination, and the serene delight of the climate, have made this locality a favorite pleasure-resort for all seasons (for in this equable climate there are but a few degrees of difference between July and January). The charges for accommodation at this famous re sort are very moderate, and the extra cost of a trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference in rates at the various well-known resorts of the United States and Europe and this incom parable hotel. This superb establishment, with its leagues of neighboring beaches, its acres of roses and violets and heliotropes, the mingled perfumes of pine- trees and salt waves, and the lovely and healing cli mate, has been visited and enjoyed by the foremost ' 111*- '""•",v" CAMULOS : THE HOME OF RAMONA. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 79 SANTA BARBARA. American and European travellers, all of whom have been enthusiastic in its praise. The hotel property consists of 7,000 acres of land, compris ing the Monterey peninsula, through which have been constructed finely macadamized roadways, including the celebrated Eighteen-Mile Drive, leading from the Del Monte around the coast line, by the cypress groves and Carmel Bay, and back to the house. The hotel company also con trols the great summer-resort of Pacific Grove, between Monterey and Point Pinos, with its El Carmelo hotel and surrounding cottages and villas, where upwards of 5,000 people pass their happy summers. The beautiful Valley of Santa Clara is one of the most attractive and interesting regions of California, very accessible to San Francisco and the sea, and yet with all the charms of the fairest rural regions of the Golden State. The climate is one of the best in the world, almost semi-tropical in its softness, and tempered by bracing and salubrious trade-winds from the Pacific. Every one who visits the Lick Observatory goes by way of San Jose, and in order to accommodate these visitors, and also many people entering the Santa-Clara region in search of health and beauty, the great Hotel Vendome has been erected, in the centre of a beautiful park of twelve acres, at San Jose, planted with the choicest shrubbery and trees, a quarter of a century ago, by one of the pioneers of California. Ris ing from the midst of this magnificent estate, stands the hotel, provided with every modern im provement, a favorite both as a summer and as a winter resort, and the permanent home of wealthy families. Every convenience and facility is afforded here for people on their way to and from the famous Lick Observatory and the many other points of in terest in this wonderful fruit-growing valley. Santa Cruz, with its fine beach and picturesque mountains, is rich in singular rock-formations ; and near it rises a historic group of huge redwood trees. Santa Monica, on its beautiful bay, upon which the Sierra Santa Monica looks down, is a well-known pleasure-resort ; and farther down the coast Long Beach, Del Mar, Ocean- side, San Juan-by-the Sea, and other popular beaches afford recreation-ground for thou sands, with surf-bathing all winter. Off the southern coast, from 20 to 60 miles in the ocean, lie eight islands, rising from the blue sea to mountainous heights, and bearing melodious old Spanish names. One of them has a quaint little village and harbor ; three or four are inhabited by myriads of sheep, with solitary shepherds ; and others know only the sounds of multitudinous sea-birds and the seals and sea-otter that clamber over their rocky shores. When dark fogs brood over the mainland, these islands bask under a deep azure sky, and listen to the ceaseless roar ing of the Pacific. Santa Calalina, a score of miles long, attains a height of 3,000 feet and may be seen from Los Angeles, 40 miles away. Its beautiful marine scenery and bracing air have attracted many summer visitors, in the hotel, and in camps along the shore. Santa Cruz, ascending 1,700 feet into the clear sea-air, is the home of myriads of sheep. Santa Rosa has 42 miles of coast-line, with bold and noble highlands, and a great product of wool. ,A„ „-lSE : m[ ALA,,„„A The waters of California abound in valuable fish, SAN JOSE: HOTEL VENDOME. 8o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and the State Board of Fish Commissioners maintains hatcheries, dams, fish-ways and patrol boats. The streams have been stocked "with black bass, trout and shad, and sturgeon and salmon abound in the rivers. There are plenty of rockfish and tom- cod, turbot and sole, and the delicate-flavored barra- couta. The bay-shores yield small oysters and clams, muscles and shrimp, lobsters and crabs. The deep- sea fisheries employ 3,000 men, in 50 vessels and 900 boats, with a product of $1,000,000 a year, in cod, halibut, whale oil and bone. The fishing-banks swarm with food-fish ; and the fleet also cruises northward to Bering Sea. The spoils of the deep include also seals and sea-otter. There are salmon canneries on the Sac ramento, and also on Eel and Smith Rivers. The valleys of the Coast Range, Napa, Sonoma, Petaluma, and Russian-River, on the north, and many others on the south, of San Francisco, are full of rich pastoral beauty. Nowhere is one out of sight of high foot-hills or mountain-ranges, which nobly diversify the scenery. In the farther south, hundreds of agricultural colonies have settled in the valleys within a few leagues of the sea, and begun irrigation-works, and the cultivation of fruits. The oldest of the colonies is Anaheim, founded by Germans in 1857, and now rich in 2, 500,000 grape-vines and 90,000 sheep. Riverside, Ontario, Pomona, Glendale, Ocean- side, Fallbrook, El Cajon, Colton and other towns have risen rapidly, of late, in this favored corner of the world. In the southeast the barren sands and scanty vegetation of the Mohave and Colorado MONTEREY : CYPRESS POINT. localities 350 feet below the Nubian desert in its NATURAL BRIDGE. ARCH ROCK. MONUMENT ROCK. Deserts cover thousands of square miles, in some the level of the sea. This unvisited land resembles loneliness and its weird colors and shapes ; and the Colorado is its Nile. Black and purple mountains loom high above leagues of white sand and alkaline flats; and the lowest levels are diversified by mud volcanoes, where continuous streams of hot water and gas escape from the soft mud. The scenic wonders of El Dorado include also the natural bridges on Hay Fork of Trinity, and on Coyote Creek, in Tuolumne County ; Bower Cave, in Mariposa ; the Alabas ter Cave, in Placer; the petrified forest of great trees, discovered in 1870, north of San Francisco ; and the lava beds and mountains of marble. The Climate. — The State Board of Health finds in California two climates, that of the sea, with low and even temperature and cold damp winds ; and that of the land, hot and dry. The valleys around the Bay of San Francisco enjoy a delightful blending of the land and sea air. The rapid changes in San Francisco almost justify the humorous remark that the proper costume to wear there is a linen duster with a fur collar. The damp day- winds rush from the Pacific through the gaps in the Coast Range, to replace the dry and heated inland atmosphere ; and vast currents of cold and bracing air sweep through the Golden Gate, to spread out in a fan-shape up the Sacramento and San-Joaquin Valleys. Thus comes some mitigation of the fierce inland heats, which at times reach 1100, but are never attended by sun-strokes. At night the breeze -_ — dies, the cool mountain-air descends, and San . Francisco sleeps in a light mist from the ocean. ¦^yi The climate is divided into the dry and the rainy seasons, and these differ, from the love- sAN~FRrNcisco :Tlcatraz island. ty spring-like winters of the northern counties THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. to the almost rainless years of the Colo rado Valley, and also from season to season, so that the perilous inundations . of one year may be followed by pro longed droughts. The Sierra retains its snows the year through, and the remote mining towns endure an Alpine climate. several weeks of sleighing COLORADO RIVER : THE NEEDLES BRIDGE. The region of Klamath Lake sometimes has but the coast and the valleys see little snow. The rainy sea son is spring-like, and has many calm and sunny days, being the most agreeable part of the year. June, July, August, and September are singularly dry months. In an average Californian year there are 220 days perfectly clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy. During the long rainless and dewless summer, everything turns brown and sear, the ground wrinkles and cracks, and the air grows dusty. The rich green of Eastern landscapes is seen here only in winter and early spring. The heat of the summers is largely tempered by the clear ness and dryness of the air, which favor radiation. The climate is much milder and more uniform than that of the other States in the same latitude, with summers whose mean tem perature (6o°) is within four degrees of the mean of the year. The warm dry winter air and bracing west winds of the southern counties are favorable for alleviating diseases of the throat and lungs. Although much farther south, this region does not suffer from the great heat of the Sacra mento Valley, owing to its strong sea-winds and cool ing fogs. The rainfall mainly comes during the nights of January, February, and March. The mean average winter temperature of Santa Barbara is 550 ; of Men- tone, 48. 6°; of San Remo, 49.9°. Their tempera tures in spring are, respectively, 58. 30, 57.40, and 57.3°; in summer, 65. i°, 73. 30, and 72.40; in autumn, 6 1. 90, 62. 30, and 61.90. The winters at Santa Bar bara are warmer, and the summers cooler, than those mossbrae falls. of the famous Mediterranean health-resorts. The ac curate and careful meteorological reports show but one night on record when a frost touched Santa Barbara (28. 5°). In the ten years, 1878-87, the thermometer at Los Angeles rose above ioo° but seven times, and fell below the freezing point six times. The rainless south east is extremely hot, the mean of Fort Yuma being 760, and the thermometer ranging between 900 and ioo°, night and day, for weeks at a time. The gloomy Colorado Desert is swept by frequent sand-storms. The Great Valley is hotter in summer than the coast, and also 400 colder in winter, on account of the huge snowy wall of the Sierra. Earth quakes have visited California many times. In 181 2 the missions of La Purisima and San Juan Capistrano were destroyed, with many people, and a huge tidal wave swept inland over Santa Barbara. For months of 1872 the Sierra was agitated by earthquakes, which threw down great granite peaks, and opened cracks in the ground ; and 30 persons were killed and 100 wounded. Agriculture. — Many of the farms of California are on a grand scale. A rainy autumn is followed by plowing and sowing in No vember, and copious latter rains in March and April ensure noble harvests in June and July. The cereal, hay, and root crops of Cal ifornia are valued at $70,000,000 yearly. Vast areas, occupied by arid deserts, cannot be farmed, and much even of the Great Valley requires irrigation. Millions of dollars have been invested in irri gation, in the south, and the fair green tides of cultivated vegeta tion are already advancing on the Mohave Desert, and flowing over -p ¦ jr^xF.ST}^.* the red mesas of San Bernardino. Southern California, the scene calistoga: petrified forest. 82 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ^^sffSysS^rr SAN-DIEGO harbor, of a phenomenal growth in recent years, is one of the gardens of the world, and as fast as water can be led to its rich lands, all the valuable fruits and cereals of the temperate zone and the tropics alike are reaped. The California wheat is mainly Chilian and Australian, commanding very high prices, and largely exported to England. The wheat-crop reaches 33, 000, 000 bushels, valued at $20, 000, 000 a year. San-Francisco flour is sent by shiploads to Central America, China, and Japan, 1,200,000 barrels being exported yearly. Barley is raised to the amount of 16,000,000 bushels. The other cereals have a much smaller product. The bean crop is very large, and 50,000 tons are sent out of California yearly, besides 50,000 tons of other vegetables. The prodigious mangel-wurzels and turnips and 200-pound pumpkins are the result of ten months of growth in this serene climate. Mammoth sugar-beets are raised easily, ten to 20 tons on each acre, and yielding a much larger percentage of sugar than the European beets. The first beet-sugar factory in the Far West was established at Alvarado, in Santa- Clara County, several years ago. Claus Spreckels started one at Watsonville, in the Pajaro Valley, two years ago, with a plant that cost $500,000, and can reduce 500 tons of beets to sugar daily. Around Stockton grow vast quantities of chicory, always salable to coffee- merchants ; and mustard of extraordinary ferocity. Here, also, grows the Persian insect- powder plant, whose product is in active demand from Klamath to Fort Yuma. Sweet potatoes and peanuts are raised almost everywhere, in the warm, rich soils, especially in the interior valleys. In the San- Luis Valley cotton grows. The tobacco of the Pacific coast is rank and strong. Hops are produced to the amount of 40,000 bales yearly. California is now the foremost State in the Union for the cultivation of fruit, with 20,000,000 trees, growing rapidly and producing abundantly. Even the deserted mining- camps in the foot-hills have been replaced by vineyards and orchards. In no other equal area in the world can the fruits of semi-tropical and temperate regions be grown to such perfection, side by side, in the same orchard, orange and apple, lemon and cherry, olive and plum, fig and pear, the pomegranate, the prune, peach, apricot, nectarine, vine, nuts, and cereals. The orange, lemon, and lime thrive along the foot-hills of the Sierras, from Red Bluff on the north to National City on the south. The famous Magnolia Avenue extends for nine miles, between double rows of pepper trees. Great quantities of the finest oranges are sent out from the Sacramento region, and the sheltered valleys of the Coast Range, and the red soils of the northern foot-hills. California has shipped 4,000 carloads of oranges in a season. These oranges do not compete with those of Florida, since the season of sale is from February to July, when the Florida fruit is not in the market.: Within a decade, California will probably supply the continent with lemons, as trees are being planted in great numbers, and already the export reaches 50,000 boxes yearly. The Californian limes are of excellent quality. The entire range of deciduous fruits grows to perfection, and the crop has reached 300,000,000 pounds. Peaches are shipped ripe, by train-loads, and meet with a ready sale. The pro duction yearly of 2,000 tons of choice sun-dried and evaporated peaches fails to supply the market, while the demand for canned peaches and other fruits comes from all over the world. Here the delicious apricot and nectarine are produced in abundance and perfection, most of them being canned, with 3,000,- 000 pounds dried. Prune-growing has assumed vast proportions, with- 1,000,000 trees. Their qual ity became known quickly, and they sell at prices hftch- ketch-, valley. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. §3 PALM CANON. above the imported varieties. The dried-prune crop has increased to a yield of 8,000,000 pounds. Californian pears have no rival as a fresh fruit, or canned or dried. Figs grow and produce, but only recently have successful attempts been made to cure them. The State has 300,000 fig-trees ; and the same persistent experimenting that has produced the best raisins and prunes may give California the best dried figs. A full car-load of dried figs was shipped from Fresno alone, to New York, in 1889. The stately and graceful English walnut trees bear when ten years old, and beautify and enrich the country. The crop exceeds 1,000,000 pounds. The almond-orchards, at blossoming time looking like "a rosy- white cloud or a pink snow-storm," bear 500, 000 pounds yearly. Italian chestnuts, filberts, and pistachio nuts are also raised. The yearly crop of peanuts yields 200,000 pounds. Among other fruits are the quince, pomegranate, Japanese persimmon, guava, banana, and apple. The loquat is a. yellow Japanese fruit, peculiarly adapted to the climate. Strawberries are in the market every month in the year ; and raspberries, blackberries, and currants are grown and canned in great quantities. Many date-palms have been raised from the seed, and bear both the white dates and the red (or China) dates. The cultivation of olives was introduced by the monks, and has latterly received a great development, the best varieties having been imported from France and Italy. The trees grow from cuttings, a hundred to the acre, in rocky and sandy places, near the coast. The olive is receiving more attention than any other tree. Its adaptability to the climate and soil is marked, and the results obtained in producing an olive-oil equal to the best imported article, are important factors. The Californian olive-oils have the advantage of being pure, as put up by the growers, whereas the imported oils are (as a rule) injuriously adulterated. Her rapid advance in this industry will soon place California among the great olive-produc ing countries of the world. At Ellwood Cooper's ranche the olives are ground between great stone rollers. The expressed oil stands and settles for three months, and is then fil tered through six layers of cotton batting and one of French paper. When bottled it has a delicate straw color, and brings double the price of the best Lucca oil. A box of Californian raisins was a curiosity a few years ago, and the total output in 1880 was only 75,000 boxes. The capacity now is 2,200,000 boxes of the finest raisins in the world. The wide barrens of Fresno County have been successfully devoted to this indus try. The Californian vineyards yield two tons of raisin-grapes to the acre, which exceeds the yield of the Malaga vineyards. In 1890 33,000,000 pounds were shipped. Among the prospering 'industries of the Pacific Coast, one of the most interesting and profitable is that of putting up various articles of food and delicacies in cans and other ves sels, for preservation and shipment. The abundant fruit production of California finds this one of its best outlets, and the delicious pears and peaches, plums and other fruits of the Golden State are thus sent out all over the world. Among the leaders in this business is the firm of Code, Elfelt & Co., whose great factories are equipped with all the modern devices for canning food, and employ a consider able force of skilled operatives. This house dates from the year 1867, and its growth has been step by step with that of the fruit-raising industry of California, the main characteristic being the uni form high grade, so that the Code, Elfelt & Co. 's Californian fruits have long ago become the recog nized standard for the best quality and choicest selection, and command the highest prices. SAN FRANCISCO ; CODE, ELFELT 4 CO. av.n.». , o r 84 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Between 1858 and 1862 a wide-spread interest in vine-planting sprang up, and the State sent Agoston Haraszthy abroad to study European methods. He brought home 200 000 vines and cuttings from Europe and Asia Minor, Persia and Egypt. The State Viticultural Commission was founded in 1880, since which the capi tal invested in the vineyards has risen from $14,500,000 to $87,000,000. There are 200,000 acres planted with young vines, and producing over 300,000 tons of grapes yearly. In the four years, 1884-8, upwards of 50,000,- 000 gallons of wine were made in California, two thirds of which went East. The yearly product now is about 17,000,000 gallons, with 1,000,000 gallons of brandy, san Francisco: telegraph-hill observatory. The grape country is 600 miles long and 100 miles wide. California has three grape-growing districts : (1), the Coast (Sonoma, Lake, Alameda, Santa-Clara and Santa-Cruz counties), producing fine grades of white and red dry wines, Sauternes, clarets and champagnes; (2), The red Sierra foothills and the Sacramento Valley (Placer, El Dorado, Calaveras, Tuo lumne, Yuba, Yolo, Butte, Sacramento and Tehama), yielding dry wines, table-grapes and raisins ; and (3), the southern district (San Joaquin, Merced, Fresno, Tulare, Kern, Ven tura, Santa-Barbara, San-Bernardino, Los-Angeles, Orange arid San-Diego counties), rich in sugary grapes, making heavy sweet wines, like Port and Sherry, Angelica and Muscatel. Fresno County produces 700,000 boxes of raisins yearly. The old Mission vineyards sup plied fruits until the handsome and prolific Zinfandel was introduced. But it soon became apparent that the Zinfandel was an inferior grape, after all, and to cap the climax, the phyllox era came down on the Hungarian importation and bore it away. No new vineyards were re planted with the Zinfandel, and the vine is being replaced with the choicest and hardiest wine- grapes from Europe, including Cabernet Sauvig- non, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Tannat, Merlot and St. -Laurent grapes from the Bordeaux districts; Mataro, from Palos ; Semillons and Sauvignons, from Sauterne ; Pinot and Petite Sirrah, from Bur gundy ; Johannisbergers, Traminers and Franken Rieslings, from the Rhine ; Chasselas, from Alsace-Lorraine ; delicious Burgers, from Moselle ; the rich Spanish Muscats ; and the favorite Flungarian table-grape, the Flaming Tokay. In no other vine region in the world, are all these splendid fruits found side by side, and they make of California the wonderland of the vine. California has the largest vineyard in the world, in Tehama County, on Stanford's farm. It contains 4,000 acres. The largest wine-cellar in the world is at St. Helena, the capacity being 2,500,000 gallons. The wonderful Orleans Vineyard is in Yolo County, near the entrance of the Capay Valley, and covers 400 acres of foot-hills, with vines grown from the choicest grapes of the Champagne and Burgundy and Medoc districts, in 45 varieties. The roads travers ing this noble estate are bordered with fig and olive, orange and lemon trees. The great wine-cellar has every modern appliance for the manufacture and storage of 300,000 gallons of wine. The products of this vineyard are celebrated for their agreeable freshness in taste, and prepossessing bouquet, and are used at the leading American hotels, and also largely in Europe, where this estate has an agency. The Arpad Haraszthy's Brut, Arpad Haraszthy's Extra Dry and Eclipse Champagnes are the three famous brands made here, from natural fermentation in SWEETWATER DAM : IRRIGATION-WORKS. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. «5 orchard irrigation. bottles, the process being the same as that used in France. The vineyard belongs to Arpad Haraszthy & Co. , who also have immense stores and warehouses in San Francisco. Mr. Haraszthy is the son of the pioneer of scientific grape-culture in California, and spent five years (1857-62) in Europe, studying vine- growing and wine-making. The phylloxera, which during the past few years played great havoc, is being overcome. The inferior grapes upon which the pest feeds are being rooted out, and the choice foreign varieties, which are sub ject to it, are protected by grafting on native wild varieties known as resistant vines, which the phylloxera does not affect. The marketing of the wines of California is done principally at San Francisco, whence they are shipped to almost all points of the world. One of the largest, oldest and best known of the wine-dealers of California is the firm of S. Lachman & Co. , of San Francisco, with a branch' house in New York. At their establishment may be seen a wonderful and complete storage system for aging, maturing, and blending the native product. Its capacity of over 2,000,- 000 gallons, and the facilities for handling that immense quantity from year to year, indicate the incessant labor and capital in volved in placing the wines before the con sumer. The wines are contained in huge casks and tanks, varying in capacity from 1,500 to 16,000 gallons each. The pro- and founder, Samuel Lachman, still the of the firm, has been a leader in the busi- for 25 years. The plant covers 275 feet square, the greater portion of which is occupied by the immense storage vaults, three floors in extent ; and space set apart for the manufacture of cooperage occupies another portion of this ground. Forty men are employed in handling and preparing wines for shipment. Medals and diplomas have been awarded at various International Expositions, and many letters of encomium received from connoisseurs every where. The wines are brought from vineyards throughout the State, and comprise white wines of the Gutedel, Sauterne, Traminer, Riesling and Hock types; red wines of the Burgundy, Zinfandel and other red-wine grapes ; and sweet wines, like Angelica, Catawba, Ports, Sherries, Muscat, Mount Vineyard, Tokay, Malaga, and Madeira. Special attention is given to the careful bottling of fine wines, and to the purchasing of fine brandies produced in the State. California is the foremost wool-producing State, for her 6,000,000 sheep give yearly 35,000,000 pounds of fine and heavy fleeces. In 1876 the wool-clip amounted to 56,500,- 000 pounds, but the industry has declined since that time. During summer and early autumn the high valleys of the Sierra contain innumerable sheep, driven up from the dry hot lowlands, where they pass the winter without need of shelter. There are several ranches of over 100,000 acres each, like the-Lux & Miller, Beale, and McLaughlin, de voted to raising cattle and sheep, with vast areas of pastur age on the mountains, abounding in nutritious grasses. The State has 800,000 neat cattle, 50,000 milch cows of bear-valley dam. SAN FRANCISCO : LACHMAN &. CO. 86 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. POINT PINOLE : UNION STOCK-YARDS OF SAN FRANCISCO. good stock, 250,000 horses, and 400,000 swine. It produces yearly 15,000,000 pounds of butter and cheese, much of which is exported to Asia and the Sandwich Islands. Fully $30,000,000 worth of cattle are slaughtered yearly. The majority of the horses are Mexi can mustangs, of Spanish breed, hardy little creatures, and good mountaineers, but packed to the ears with mischief and malice. Most of the old Spanish-Mexican population clings to the pastoral life of the stock-ranches, serving as herders, and galloping around the flocks, perched high on their peaked saddles on peppery little mustangs. The favorite forage-plant is alfalfa, or Chilian clover, a deep-rooted lucerne, resisting the fiercest droughts, and yield ing twelve tons to the acre. The leading horse-breeding establishments are Leland Stan ford's, the Hearst estate, and Baldwin's, where many famous race-horses have been reared. The erection of great stock-yards on the Pacific Coast has been rendered neces sary, for the food supply of the thronged and important cities of this fast-develop ing region, and of the steamship lines running out of San Francisco. Vast quantities of canned and cured meats are also exported to the islands of the Pacific, and for the use of the Pacific and China squadrons. Accordingly, the Union Stock-Yards Company has been formed, with a capital of $2,500,000, and has built large modern yards on its 1,500 acres of land, on the main double-track line of the Southern and Central Pacific systems, with a frontage of nearly two miles on the Bay of San Francisco, at Point Pinole, near Berkeley. Of the live-stock grown on the Pacific Coast 85 per cent, comes to market over the rails leading by these stock yards, whose wharves also are visited by ships from all parts of the world. Here, there fore, will be the great distributing point for fresh and cured meats for an immense popula tion; and the pork-packing houses, tanneries, and similar industries will probably he concentrated on this tract, which is the most convenient place for their purposes in the vicinity of San Francisco. With a climate like Italy, Southern China, and Japan, California hopes to become the great silk-producing State. Thousands of black and white mulberry trees have been brought here from Milan, to afford food for the silk-worms. In 1854 the honey-bee entered Cali fornia, and now there are above 50,000 hives in Los- Angeles and San-Diego counties alone, besides thousands of escaped swarms, working all the year round. Over 6, 000, 000 pounds of honey are obtained yearly, besides 300,000 pounds of comb and 20,000 pounds of bees wax. Some of the larger bee-ranches have 1 , 000 hives each, and every hive good for a hundred pounds of honey a year. The abundant spicy flowers and aromatic sage-brush give this honey a unique and delicious taste. There are several ostrich-ranches, where the beautiful African birds are successfully raised, each breeding pair having a pen of an acre in area, and living on alfalfa and corn. These powerful and pugnacious creatures are dan gerously savage during breeding time, when they lay their eggs in deep holes in the sand. Gold Mining has produced in California, between 1849 an(i '890, nearly $1,300,000,- 000 in bullion. The State yields more gold than any other, and nearly half of the Amer ican output. For 15 years (1850-64, inclusive) the yield exceeded "50,000,000 a year; but for the past 15 years it has fallen below $20,000,000. The gold-fields extend for 400 miles along the Sierra foot-hills, with an average width of 35 miles. Another smaller field lies in the north west, in the Coast Range. Gold abounds in South ern California also, where Los-Angeles County alone has produced $10,000,000. The first mining was in the placers, where the gold-seekers washed ALHAMBRA : PUBLIC LIBRARY. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. Sy -K^o SAN QUENTIN : STATE PRISON. the earth or sand in pans or rockers, until the soil passed out, leaving a sediment of heavy yellow dust, which was gathered into an amalgam, by add ing quicksilver. Very little placer-mining is now p done, except by the Chinamen. In hydraulic min ing, powerful six-inch jets of water, with head enough to be hard as steel, are turned upon banks of auriferous gravel, previously loosened by blast ing, disintegrating them, and leaving the gold to be caught in cavities in the sluices below. To furnish this water, over 5,000 miles of aque ducts were built, with reservoirs, dams, and'trestles, at a cost of above $10,000,000. The hydraulic mines were mainly in Nevada, Placer and Sierra counties, and on the Klamath River. The gravel, or tailings, washed down inflicted great damage in the distant low lands. The land-owners combined and secured judicial decrees against the miners, who were forced to erect costly and capacious retaining dams. As a result, hydraulic mining has been practically suspended, except on the Klamath River. In river-bed mining, the bed of the stream is laid bare, by diverting the water, and the gravel therein is washed in sluices. Drift mining consists in driving tunnels to the auriferous beds of ancient streams, bringing up the rich gravel, and washing it in sluices. One third of the gold is obtained by quartz-mining, crushing the gold ore removed from shafts, by heavy iron stamps, and extracting the precious metal, by amalgamating with quicksilver. This mining is done on the Mother Lode, which extends 80 miles, from Mariposa to Amador. The name of the Golden Gate, given long before gold was found in California, proved to be prophetic ; and myriads of Eastern Argonauts, Mexican-War veterans, Kanakas, Peruvians, and Australians poured into the land of treasure. In their min ing towns, Red Dog, Git-up-and-Git, Gouge- Eye, You Bet, Nearly Hell, Hell Itself, and the like, they lived flush, and spent their gold as fast as it came — $3 for an egg, $15 for a shovel, $4 for a cup of coffee, and so on. Silver-Mines abound east of the Sierra Nevada, and have absorbed a vast amount of labor and capital, but have not been profitable. The lonely valleys beyond the Sierra are made more melancholy by the ruins of reduction-works and abandoned towns. The silver- belt stretches from Alaska far down into South America. It has produced $26,000,000 in bullion, in California. The chief Californian mines are near the Mohave River. The quicksilver product of California has exceeded $70,000,000; and goes on at the rate of 25,000 flasks (2,000,000 pounds) a year, much of which is exported to Mexico and China. There are 36 large furnaces now active, each roasting from 20 to 40 tons of ore daily, when needed. The deposits at New Almaden have produced above 800,000 flasks. Other mines are worked in Lake and Napa counties. Copper has been a valuable product, but the fall in price destroyed this industry. The high price of the metal since 1 887 has caused several companies to re-open mines. Lead is produced from the silver ores of the Eu reka, Cerro-Gordo, SAN FRANCISCO : UNITED-STATES MINT. 6AN DIEGO HOTEL CORONADO. CORONADO BEACH. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and other mines, mainly at the Selby Smelting Works, at San Francisco. Iron abounds, but is generally hard to get at, and remote from fuel. The first' ex ploiting of this product occurred in 1881, when the California Iron Company fired up furnaces at Clipper Gap. About 10,000 tons of chromic iron are ship ped yearly to Scotland and Baltimore. Salt is made, by the evaporation of sea-water, at San Diego and Santa Monica, and on San-Francisco Bay. The Cal ifornia Salt Works, at Mount Eden, have 3,000 acres of evaporating surface, and make yearly 15,000 tons of salt ; and 3,000 tons are made yearly at Dos Pal- mas, in the Colorado Desert. Borax is manufactured at Slate-Range Marsh, San-Bernar dino County, to the extent of 15,000 tons yearly. The purest crystallized borax in the world is found in the lakes and springs of Lake County. The yearly product is valued at a high figure. Near Keeler great quantities of soda are made, by evaporating the water of Owen's Lake. The volcanic rocks of Lake County, reeking with steam and vapors, are rich in sulphur. About the year 1867, works were put up, and hundreds of tons of refined and brilliant sulphur went hence to San Francisco, until the competition of Sicilian sulphur destroyed the trade. Antimony has been mined on a large scale at San Emedio and Slay- ton, but without profit. As a producer of petroleum, California comes next after Pennsyl vania and Ohio. It is pumped from deep wells in Santa-Clara, Los-Angeles, and Ventura counties, at from five to 200 barrels each per day, and this region is equipped with refineries and pipe-lines. The oil-territory extends for 160 miles, and $3,000,000 are invested. The Pacific Oil Company's refinery, built in 1879 at Alameda Point, covers 15 acres. There are gas-wells near Clear Lake. Coal has been mined for 25 years on Mount Diablo, where there are veins of infer ior bituminous coal (or lignite). Over 100,000 tons are sent yearly to San Francisco. Coal has been derived in large amounts from the mines of Contra Costa and Amador, but the quality is not of the best, and consequently the industry is declining. Tin is found in San Bernardino, nickel in Monterey, manganese in Alameda, graphite in Del Norte, and arragonite in Colusa. Elsewhere occur deposits of platinum, iridium, tellurium, cobalt, alum, asbestos, isinglass, bismuth, alabaster, mineral paint, and kaolin. In the early days San Francisco sent to Australia for the stone to build its old city hall, and to China for the materials used in the walls of the Union Club and the Wells-Fargo offices. Since that time the local resources have become better known, and hundreds of quarries are in successful operation. Granite and gray sandstone are produced in great quantities, and at many places. Fine-grained dolomite is found at the Inyo quar ries, porphyry at Riverside, tufa at Napa, soapstone at Sonora, ser pentine at Benicia, basalt at Concord, red and white marble at Plymouth and Colton, at Antelope Valley and in Amador, and black and blue slate near Placerville. There are large lime-kilns in several localities. The beautiful marble and onyx of Glover Mountain, near Colton, have a high decorative value, and are 1 extensively worked. Another immense marble region is in Inyo County. The new Mills Build ing, in San Francisco, is to be faced with Inyo san francisco ; st. -ignatius church and college, marble. Onyx is quarried in Solano. SAN JOSE, FROM THE DOME OF THE COURT-HOUSE. sierra madre : church of the ascension. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. The mineral springs are of great variety, and occur amid beautiful mountain scenery. Napa Soda Springs flow from a mountain-side above the charming Napa Valley, and the grounds " cover 1,000 acres, in which there are numerous stone buildings and cottages. The White Sulphur Springs bubble up in a deep and romantic gorge near St. Helena. The Hot Springs of Calistoga contain sulphur, iron and magnesia, at a temper ature of 185°. The Geysers, one of the revealing marvels of the earth, with its " crust of fossils and heart of fire," are hid den in a Tartarean gorge among the violet peaks and redwood forests of the Mayacamas Mountains, with boiling and spouting springs of iron, soda, alum, and ink, and white, red and black sulphur waters, dark Stygian pools, cliffs forever wreathed in steam, black swirl ing caldrons, hot ashes, chemical odors, and intense colors, a veritable Satan's medicine- shop. The California Seltzer Springs have a good alkaline water. Highland Springs, in Lake County, are alkaline, and charged with carbonic acid. The hotel is 1,740 feet high, among the Mayacamas Mountains. Other resorts are the Aqua de Vita, in Alameda, with saline and sulphur waters ; the Mission-San-Jose Hot Springs ; the Byron Hot Springs, 650 to 1280, in a valley of Contra Costa; Paraiso Springs, near Monterey ; iEtna Springs, in Pope Valley (Napa); Campbell's Hot Springs, 5,025 feet high, in Sierra County; Skagg's Hot Springs; Bartlett Springs ; and Seigler Springs, near Clear Lake, with valuable chalybeate waters. Southern California has thousands of min eral springs, bubbling, rushing, and jetting from its volcanic strata, like those at Lang, Temecula, Matilija, Temescal, San Juan, and San Fernando. The hot sulphur waters of the Santa-Barbara Springs are efficient in chronic rheumatism. The hotel is 1,450 feet above the sea, in a pleasant and equable climate. The Arrowhead Hot Springs break forth in a canon of the San-Bernardino Range. They number 25, at temperatures from 1400 to 1930; and the hotel is 2,000 feet above the sea. The Carlsbad waters resemble those of the German Carlsbad. The hot springs at El Paso de Robles have for many years been visited by people of fashion. The State Board of Forestry has done good service in introducing the Tasmanian blue- gum, Australian sugar-gum, Torrey pine, locust, wattle, and catalpa. It has six large parks, with plantations of trees ; and publishes valuable illustrated reports. The monarchs of all these woodlands are the Sequoia gigantea, growing in groves along the Sierra Nevada, from 6,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea. High up in the valley of King's River is a forest, where for leagues the lofty tops of these redwoods rise above their lowlier brethren. The tallest of them reaches a height of 325 feet, and their circumference' is from 50 to 100 feet. The bark has a thickness of two feet. The Big Trees have been visited by thousands of tourists since their discovery, in 1852, most of the people going to the Calaveras Grove, where there is a road and hotel. There are famous groves on the Stanislaus, the Merced, and the Tuolumne River. The Big- Tree Groves of Mariposa cover above 2, 500 acres, 6, 500 feet above the sea, and have been reserved as the Sequoia National Park. They contain more than 300 great trees, much marred by fire, but still wonderfully grand and impressive. The Calaveras _ Grove includes nearly 100 Big Trees, several of them over redwood forest. SACRAMENTO I THE CATHEDRAL. FORT BRAGG '. FORT-BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. | 300 feet tall. These are the loftiest trees in all America. One of them has been cut down, by five men working 22 days ; and its stump forms the floor of a pavilion 23 by 24 feet in area. The redwoods {Sequoia sempervirens~), whose mag nificent forests thrive only in the sea-fogs of the Coast Range, and mainly north of the Golden Gate, reach a height of 300 feet, and afford a durable and valuable wood for building. . This is one of the most highly prized varieties of lumber, and has latterly been shipped in great quantities to the Eastern States, where its ornamental properties are fully appreciated. Among the chief handlers of redwood are the well-known and allied Fort-Bragg Redwood Company and Noyo Lumber Company, which own vast tracts of woodlands, and are continually investing in areas of forests. Their domain covers over 70,000 acres of land, and the rest of the plant includes eight miles of railway, besides vessels and mills, and other efficient and valuable auxiliaries. The chief mills are at Fort Bragg, on the great belt of redwood which runs through Men docino County, along the coast, with a breadth of 15 miles. In this vast area of virgin forest the companies employ 800 men, getting out redwood and pine, for lumber and shingles, shakes and ties, logs and posts. The long 'ocean-frontage and the two harbors on this great domain give unusual facilities for the ex portation of lumber, much of which is formed into rafts and towed to San Francisco. These companies were the first to inaugurate the raft ing system on the Pacific Coast ; and they are the largest dealers in split redwood railroad ties, which have come into general use and favor. The other interesting trees of the Coast are the cypresses of Carmel Bay, the great pines of Monterey, the glossy-leaved madrono, and the fine-grained California laurel. The Great Valley is diversified by many groves and clumps of lobata oaks, changing on the foot-hills to scattered Douglas and live oaks and digger pines. Higher up along the Sierra come the large white cedar, yellow and black pines, and Douglas fir, the last-named covering vast areas and having high economic value. On. this same belt are the amazing sugar-pines, reaching a height of from 200 to 300 feet, and highly prized for timber. At from 4, 000 to 8, 500 feet above the sea, these trees give place to the grand coniferous forest of California, the hardy white, red and silver cedars and tamaracks and pines, and many silver spruces, above which stretch the un trodden snows and granite peaks. The hickory, beech, elm, and other well-known trees are not found here, and much timber has to be imported for industrial uses. The magnificent oaks and sycamores of the south fairly shut out the sunlight, and alternate with mountain fronts and cation-sides carpeted with chapparal, or matted thickets of innumerable many-colored shrubs. On the valley ranches long belts of eucalyptus and poplar have been planted for firewood, and to keep the wind from the olive- yards and almond groves. The chief animals are the fierce grizzly bears ,-dr, bra,.,. fltMooc - s kahs. of the Coast Range ; the black and the cinnamon FORT BRAGG REDWOOD CO. 'S MILLS. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 91 bears, the deer and antelope, and the mountain goats of the Sierra Nevada ; the elks of the Shasta region ; the famous sea-lions of the Farallones and Seal Rocks, whose huge size, unwieldy gambols and odd noises are observed by nearly all visitors to San Francisco ; the gophers and squirrels, detested by husbandmen ; and the beavers, still remaining in remote places. The birds number 350 species, headed by the largest Amer ican flyers, the California vultures. Gbvernment. — The Governor of California is elected for four years. The Legislature includes 40 four-years' senators and 80 two-years' representatives. The Supreme Court has seven justices, elected by the people for twelve years. The mag nificent State Capitol at Sacramento was built in 1860-74, at a cost of $2, 500,000, and stands in a park of 25 acres, abounding in lawns and flowers. The National Guard of California is organized into a division of six brigades, composed of seven regiments and four companies. The First and Third Infantry, Second Artillery (eight companies serving as infantry), Battery A (four Parrotts and four Gatlings), and the Hussars, are at San Francisco ; and the Fifth Infantry belongs in neighboring cities. The Sixth Infantry comes from about Stockton ; the Seventh Infantry from the Los-Angeles country ; the First Artillery, from the Sacramento region ; and the Chico, Colusa and Eureka Guards. There are occasional encampments of portions of the National Guard, and some atten tion is given to rifle-practice. The uniform resembles that of the United-States army. The Napa State Asylum for the Insane, with 1,500 inmates, is a noble building, sur rounded by lawns and orchards, vineyards and olive-yards. The Stockton State Asylum for the Insane holds 1,700 patients, in commodious buildings, amid spacious and pleasant grounds. The California Hospital for the Chronic Insane, at Agnews, holds 500 incurables. The Mendocino Insane Asylum is at Ukiah. The South-Californian State Asylum for the Insane was founded in 1889. The California Home for the Care and Training of Feeble- Minded Children, opened in 1885, at Santa Clara, has over 100 inmates. The California Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind, at Berkeley, has 160 boys and girls, in a group of cottages looking out through the Golden Gate to the Pacific Ocean. There are 19 orphan asylums receiving State aid and inspection. The State Prison at San Quentin, twelve miles from San Francisco, across the bay, has 1,400 convicts, including many Mexicans and Indians. The State Prison at Folsom, opened in 1880, has 400 inmates. The State Reform School for Juvenile Offenders, at Whittier, in Los-Angeles County, is conducted on the cottage-plan, and teaches various trades, besides farming and fruit-growing. The Preston School of Industry for Youthful Criminals was founded in 1889, at lone City, Amador County. National Institutions. — The only American naval station on the Pacific Coast is the Navy Yard at Mare Island, 28 miles from San Francisco. The usual stone and brick buildings for construction and storage, hospitals and barracks, are grouped on one side of a fertile island ten miles around, with deep water and good anchorage off-shore. The three-million-dollar stone dry-dock can accommodate the largest ships in the - ~ r— vrTSsi/^L, . " ' world. Of late years the yard has been abandoned to peaceful decay, with the ironclads Monadnock and Comanche rusting at their moorings, and Farragut's flagship Hartford rotting in the stream. The Presidio Reservation extends along the Golden Gate, with pleasant pa rade-grounds and barracks, and the lar gest garrison on the Pacific Coast. Here BERKELEY : UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 92 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN FRANCISCO : THE SYNAGOGUE. Fort Wlnfield Scott's casemate batteries and barbette earthworks face the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. Fort Mason is another defence of San Francisco. Alcatraz Island rises inside the Golden Gate, as picturesque as Malta, with its ascending lines of fortifications. Angel Island is occupied by batteries, barracks, and parade-grounds. Fort Bid- well, the station of two companies of cavalry, overlooks the 60 miles of the Surprise Valley, with its three bitter alkaline lakes and wide-spreading plains of sage-brush. Fort Gaston, in the Hoopa Valley, has one company of bored and lonely infantry men. There are Barracks at Benicia and San Diego ; and an arsenal at Benicia. Southern California is in the Military Department of Arizona, whose headquarters is at Los Angeles. The National Soldiers' Home at Santa Monica occupies 300 acres of beautiful rolling land, and amid these magnificent scenes of nature, and in this glorious climate, 600 old warriors are quartered. The Vete rans' Home at Yountsville receives disabled Californian soldiers. The Mission Indians number more than 3,000, and occupy 21 little reservations in Southern California. They are of medium height and sturdy build, with flat faces, of a ginger-cake color. Their chief occupation is farming, and many earn good pay as farm-laborers and sheep-shearers. The Hoopa Reservation covers 140 square miles, on the Trinity River, and contains 463 Indians of the northwestern tribes, mostly engaged in farming. The little Kla- math-River Reservation has 220 Indians, who excel in the sal mon fisheries. The Round-Valley Reservation, in the northern Coast Range, with 500 Indians, has been almost entirely seized by white trespassers. Education. — The yearly school revenue is above $5,000,- 000. The school-property is valued at $14,000,000; and the school-fund, held by the State Treasurer, exceeds $3,000,000. The State series of text-books are compiled and manufactured in California, and sold to the students at cost. The private schools have an attendance of 21,000 children. The normal schools are at San Jose, Los Angeles, and Chico. The University of California is the crown of the educational institutions of the State. It was developed by State and National gifts, upon a remarkable foundation — the old Col lege of California, established before the close of the mining era, by Henry Durant, Dr. Bushnell, and other New-Englanders. This college maintained a standard of scholarship equal to that of Yale. In 1868 its trustees turned over the whole institution to the University, which was then in process of creation, and de voted all their energies to advancing the interests of the enterprise. The Univer sity, under the Hatch Law, controls $15,000 a year from the National Gov ernment, for agricultural experiment stations. The State adds a large ap propriation, and the whole, under the direction of Prof. E. W. Hilgard, is spent on four stations and several sub stations, where many important horti- LOS ANGELES : Y. to. u. fl. MB CAN FRANCISCO : THE PALACE HOTEL. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 93 LICK OBSERVATORY TELESCOPE. cultural experiments are made. The endowment of the University represents $7,000,000. In 1873 the institution moved from the old college buildings to its present site at Berkeley, covering 200 acres on the lower slopes of the Coast Range, whence the view passes seaward through the Golden Gate. It has upwards of 400 students, including 50 women. In the classical course there are 50 ; literary, 40 ; letters and political science, 106; agriculture, 14 ; mechanics, 23 ; civil engineering, 34 ; chemistry, 23 ; and others are in special stu dents' courses. There are 27 professors and associate pro fessors, and 28 other instructors. The schools of Dentistry (50 students), Pharmacy (77), Law (76), and Medicine (97), are at San Francisco. No tuition is charged, save in the profes sional schools. The world-renowned Lick Observatory, and the astronomi cal department of the University, was founded by James Lick, a Pennsylvanian, who made a fortune in South America, and vastly increased it ill Californian real estate. He was buried (not at his direction) in the solid pier of masonry which upholds the great telescope, ordered in his trust deed to be "superior to and more powerful than any telescope ever yet made. " The United States granted Mount Hamilton ; Santa-Clara County built a noble road, 26 miles long, from San Jose to the summit ; and California assumed the publication of the observations. The peak is occupied by the brick buildings for the observatories, instruments, and library, and the astronomers' dwellings. The view includes the bays of San Francisco and Monterey, the lovely Santa-Cruz Mountains, the San-Joaquin Valley, and the colossal Sierra, and Lassen Butte, 175 miles north. The telescope has an object-glass 36 inches in diameter, and a tube 56 feet long. It is the largest refractor ever made. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland, (Ohio), designed and built the 36-inch equatorial telescope, and also the 6-inch equatorial and the 25-foot steel dome. The time-service of all the Pacific railways, from Ogden to El Paso, is given out from the Lick Observatory. The University of Southern California, founded by the Methodist Episcopal Church in 1880, has large land endowments, with its colleges of letters, music and medicine in and near Los Angeles, a theological school at San Fernando, and a school of agriculture at Ontario. The Leland Stanford Junior University, planned by Senator Stanford as a memorial of his deceased son, and which he expects to endow with $20,000,000, will include a complete system of education, from the kindergarten to learned post-graduate schools, with colleges of law, medicine and music, conducted by the foremost men in these departments. The present endowment consists of about 30,000 acres of land, which cannot be sold. The University is at Palo Alto, south of San Francisco, in a lovely pastoral country, and with views of the Coast Range. Several of the buildings are finished, in a grand Moorish archi tecture, of yellow sandstone. Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge, of Boston, are the architects. Among other colleges the Catholics have St. Vincent's (1S67), at Los Angeles; St. Ignatius (1S55), at San Francisco ; the Jesuit College, at Santa Clara, with 178 students ; the College of Notre Dame, at San Diego, for Catholic girls ; and the Franciscan College, at Santa Barbara. The Methodist-Episcopal Church conducts the Pacific Methodist College (1861), at Santa Rosa; and Napa College (1870), at Napa City. The Uni versity of the Pacific has five large build ings on its domain, between San Jose and Santa Clara, with 16 instructors and 188 students, besides 235 preparatory pupils. | ^ _ | 94 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. AGNEWS I HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. The Cogswell Polytechnic College, at San Francisco, was erected and equipped by its founder, and is maintained by the city. It enjoys an endowment of $300,000, and began its work in 1888. At Woodland and College City are Christian colleges; and San-Joaquin College is at Woodbridge. The theological schools are at San Rafael (Presbyterian; founded in 1871, and well endowed); Benicia (St. Augustine's, Episcopal); and Oakland (Congregationalist; 1869; 35 students in 1890). The Hastings College of Law belongs to the University of California. There are medical schools at San Francisco, Oakland, and Los Angeles, with 225 students; and dental and pharmaceutical colleges at San Francisco. Belmont School was opened in 1885, near Belmont, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 25 miles south of San Francisco. It was founded by the present Head-Master, W. T. Reid (Harvard, 1868), who resigned the Presidency of the University of California for the pur pose of carrying out his long-cherished plan of erecting a preparatory school for boys, which should hold an honorable place among the best educational institutions in the coun try. The location of the school is probably un surpassed as regards healthfulness, beauty, con venience, and adaptability. Its steadfast pur poses are to offer thorough preparation for those colleges and technical schools whose- require ments for admission are most severe ; to do all that it may to quicken the moral and religious sense, and strengthen the moral courage ; and to give such attention to systematic physical cul ture as shall contribute to good health and a vigorous physical development. The graduates of the school have for the most part entered Harvard, Yale, The University of California, Cornell University, or the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. No candidate from the school has ever failed to pass the exami nations for which he was recommended as prepared, and it is the only private school in the State whose graduates are admitted to all departments of the University of California without examination. Physical culture under the direction of a special teacher of gymnas tics is a stated requirement, and has a place in the programme of exercises, the same as mathematics, English, or any other requirement. Military drill is a feature only as an adjunct to the work of physical culture. The discipline of the school is very simple, and entirely in the interest of boys who are on the whole well meaning. Belmont does not pretend to keep and successfully deal with bad boys, and is perhaps a little intolerant of them, for it insists on their immediate withdrawal as soon as their unruly, vicious, or vul gar dispositions become known. The school does not attempt the BELMONT : THE BELMONT SCHOOL. UNIVERSITY OF CAUFORNIA : THE LIBRARY. good work of reformation, and it is not therefore a fitting place for boys who need what is ordinarily termed severe discipline. The California Academy of Sciences, founded in 1853, was endowed with $500,000 by James Lick, and has large collections in botany, entomol ogy, birds and fishes. It occupies a fine Roman esque building at San Francisco. The Mining Bureau has an immense collection of Californian ores and minerals. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 95 K SAN JOSE I COURT-HOUSE. i ; D. C. French's heroic statue Public libraries are found in Alameda, Marysville, Napa, Oak land, Petaluma, Sacramento, Ventura, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Stockton, Riverside, and other places. In San Francisco the chief libraries are the Sutro, 110,000 volumes; Free Public, 70,000; Mercantile, 60,000; Ban croft Pacific, 45,000; Mechanics' Institute, 45,000; Odd Fellows', 40,000 ; and California Academy of Sciences, 10,000. The State Library at Sacramento has 70,000; the University at Berkeley, 28,000. Hubert Howe Ban croft, the historian of the Pacific States, has a fire-proof library at San Francisco, containing 45,000 volumes. The chief collection of paintings is the Crocker Art Gal lery, at Sacramento. The statues of California include W. W. Story's bronze memorial of Philip Barton Key, erected at San Francisco in 18 of Thomas Starr King ; Mead's Columbus before Isabella, in the Capitol at Sacramento ; and statues of John Howard Payne, James A. Garfield, and Marshall, the discoverer of gold. The Newspapers of California include 86 dailies and more than 400 others. Of these 15 are in German, seven in French, four in Italian, three in Spanish, and two each in Por tuguese, Scandinavian and Chinese. One of the most conspicuous buildings of San Francisco is that in which the Chronicle of that city is housed. It is the first tall fire-proof structure erected on the Pacific Coast, and attracts attention, because its enterprising owner, M. H. de Young, by his bold act broke down a long-standing prejudice against high buildings, which was the outcome of the fear inspired by earthquakes. Since the erection of the Chronicle Building this fear has been entirely dissipated, and other ten- story edifices are being put up. Mr. de Young's enterprising character has been displayed throughout his entire career. He has made the Chronicle the foremost agency in the develop ment of the Pacific Coast, and it now has a circulation exceed ing 60,000. He is well known in the political world, being a SAN FRANCISCO : THE SAN-FRANCISCO CHRONICLE. member of the Republican National Committee and a prominent candidate States Senator. He is also one of the Vice-Presidents of the World's mission, and has expended a great deal of his surplus energy in the work tion. The great new building erected by and for the Chronicle looms with impressive effect, with a massive bronze clock-tower rising above the pavement, and bearing the largest dials in America across). The entire structure is a marvel of strength, stability and ness ; its wonderful frame-work of steel and iron uniting with an ex- stone and brick to form an edifice proof at once against fire and earthquake. Chief Cities. — San Francisco is the metropolis of the North Pacific, with almost the only good harbor from Mex ico to Puget Sound, and seems destined to a great expan sion, since it must always control the imports and exports % and general markets of the Great Valley and Nevada. It is six miles from the Pacific Ocean, and occupies the point of a long peninsula, between the bay, the ocean, and the world-renowned Golden Gate. for United- Fa i r C o m - of organiza- over the city 208 feet (l6£ feet light- terior of SAN FRANCISCO : THE STAR-SPrtNGLED BAN NER (OR KEY'S) MONUMENT. 96 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PALO ALTO : LELAND STANFORD JR. UNIVERSITY. Among the abrupt heights which diversify the site are the Mission Peaks, 925 feet high, and Russian and Telegraph Hills. The Golden-Gate Park has cost' 1,000,000, and covers 1,013 acres, out to the ocean-shore ; and the Cliff House and Seal Rocks and Sutro Heights are at Point Lobos, with the Presidio Reservation farther within the Gol den Gate. San Francisco is grow ing rapidly, with 16 lines of cable- roads, steamboats to many points on the bay and rivers, and 50 steam ships running to the Sandwich Islands, and the Pacific, Asiatic and Australian ports. The chief imports are sugar, tea, rice, and coffee. The City Hall, begun in 1871, has cost $4, 500,000. This is a wonderfully cosmopolitan city, where almost every civilized language may be heard. Mexican infantry marches down the streets to celebrate the anniversary of the independence of Mexico ; Italian societies commemorate the unity of Italy ; the Chinese haul their divine dragon, 100 feet long, through the streets of their quarter (where 20,000 Chinamen dwell), amid an amazing din of fire-crackers, drums, cymbals and flutes; and Irishmen celebrate or contemn the Battle of the Boyne. The beautiful bay, lined with white cities and reflecting great mountain-ranges, is traversed by ocean-steamships, ferry-boats, and sailing vessels, from the ,i~ „- \ unwieldy junks of the Chinese shrimpers and the lateen- "saShr, :rt£ sailed feluccas of the Maltese and Greek fishermen to the towering white canvas of the clipper-ships. The city has manufactories of iron, glass, woolens, blankets, cable and wire, flour, mining machinery, cordage, and sugar, employing 7,000 operatives, with a yearly pro- j^^atgS duct of $82,000,000. The grain-fleet ships 1,000,000 tons each year, and the value of the yearly imports L0S angeles : and exports is $150,000,000, employing a large number of steamships and packets. In San Francisco there has just arisen a period of grand and lofty buildings. After the Chronicle Building came the fine Mark Hopkins Building. The superb D. O. Mills Build ing is being erected at a cost of $1,250,000. It will be an office structure, designed with rich Southern feeling in its details. It will be ten stories high, 160 by 138 feet, the lower three stories of white Inyo marble, the upper seven of delicate creamy buff brick, and terra cotta of the same color. A main feature is an elegant sky-lighted rotunda, beautifully constructed of marble. Its appointments are to be unsurpassed in any office structure on the continent, and the Mills Building will remain for many years one of the notable sights of the Pacific Coast. Here, too, are the executive offices of the world-famous Wells, Fargo & Co. 's express and banking institutions, the express building being very attractive. Sacramento, 83 miles from San Francisco, on the Sacra mento River, is the State capital, and has the immense Pacific- Railroad shops, besides manufactories of pottery, flour, furni ture, and woolens. It is the centre of a very productive fruit- region, and ships more green fruit than all the rest of the State. Oakland, seven miles from San Francisco, across the bay, is a beautiful suburban city, embowered in flowers and semi-tropi cal fruit-trees, free from the coast fogs, and sheltered by the Contra-Costa hills. Near it is Berkeley, the seat of the Univer sity of California. ARMY HEADQUARTERS. SAN FRANCISCO: THE D. O. MILL8 BUILDING. SAN FRANCISCO : WELLS, FARGO & CO. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. The chief cities of northern California are Peta- luma, Santa Rosa, and Napa, in the wine-producing valleys of the Coast' Range ; Grass Valley and Nevada City, in the foot-hills, with profitable gold-mines ; Marysville, the metropolis of the Yuba country, once prolific of gold, and now of fruit ; and Eureka, export ing lumber to the ports of the Pacific. Stockton is a famous wheat-market, with warehousing capacity of 100,000 tons. Here are electric cars, many mills, and a costly granite court-house. San Jose, 47 miles south of San Francisco, is an attractive modern city, with large parks, broad streets, seven newspapers, many factories, and a valuation of $12,000,000. Santa Barbara, 288 miles from San Francisco, is a famous watering-place, overlooking the Pacific, under the lee of the stately Santa- Ynez Mountains. The mission, founded in 1782, is still a. Franciscan monastery. Immense vultures, or condors, with a spread of wings of twelve feet, haunt the Santa- Ynez. In this same region is Camulos, the scene of Ramona. Los Angeles, with its network of railroads and motor-roads, eleven banks and six parks, iron-works and other factories, is 16 miles inland. There are water-works, electric lights, and costly public buildings. The metropolis of Southern California was founded by twelve Spanish soldiers, who named it El Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles, the Town of the Queen of the Angels. The mild and de lightful climate of this region has made it a san itarium for thousands of Eastern people, whose pleasant homes are fast filling the region. The San-Gabriel Valley, 40 by ten miles in area, lies along the base of the Sierra Madre, and is occupied by ranches and villages, the chief of which is Pasadena, buried in orange-groves and rose-thickets, palms and pepper-trees, nine miles from Los Angeles and 30 miles from the Pacific. The wonderfully equable cli mate of this locality, and the magnificent scenery of the Sierra, have made it one of the foremost winter-resorts of the world, with great hotels and handsome villas. In midwinter rich flowers and fruits fill the gardens, from whose fragrant depths wild snow-storms may be seen whirling over the Sierra peaks. San Diego is 480 miles southeast of San Francisco, and within four leagues of the Mexican frontier. From 4,000 inhabitants in 1885 it rose to 30,000 in 1887, with all the modern metropolitan conveniences. The noble harbor is the seat of a large ocean commerce. The climate is remarkably equable, and thousands of pleasure-tourists come here, and to the beautiful trans-harbor suburb of Coronado Beach, whose hotel cost $1,200,000. Farther up the harbor National City overlooks the sea, with the villa-suburb of Chula Vista on the high red mesa beyond. San Diego is the oldest city in Cali fornia, and the ruins of Father Juni- pero's mission of 1769 are still pre served near the Mexican suburb. A few miles back, at the mouth of a canon, stands the famous Sweet- SAN FRANCISCO : GOLDEN-GATE PARK. 98 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. water Dam, one of the largest in the world, with a curving wall of masonry 90 feet high and 46 feet thick at the base. The magnificent entrance to San-Diego Bay, the Silver Gate, leads into a safe and capacious harbor. Railroads. — In 1856 the Sacramento-Valley Railroad began its works, from Sacramento to Folsom. It had 23 miles in i860. The second road built was from San Francisco, and began running in 1863, and reached the State line in January, 1868, and Ogden in May, 1869. This triumph of modern engineering crosses the Sierra 7,042 feet above the sea. The Cen tral Pacific is 274 miles long, from Oakland to the State line ; and 872 miles to Ogden, where it meets the Union Pacific. Its Oregon Branch runs from Rosewell up the Sacra mento Valley, by Marysville, Chico, and Tehama to the Oregon line (296 miles), and then land. Another line follows the to Tehama, 101 miles. South- single track runs from Lathrop, outlet to the raisin-country. in effect controls the lines from ing Texas, New Mexico and SAN. FRANCISCO : THE PROPOSED NEW CITY HALL. down the Umpqua and Willamette valleys to Port western side of the Great Valley from Woodland ward for 146 miles up the San-Joaquin Valley a near Stockton, to Goshen, near Visalia, giving an The Southern-Pacific Railroad Company now New Orleans to the Columbia River. After cross- Arizona, the line enters California at Yuma, and swings down along the San-Bernardino Moun tains, to Los Angeles, Santa Monica and Santa Barbara. By its lines down the San-Joaquin Valley this route is prolonged to San Francisco and Oregon. The rails cross the Tahichipi Pass, where the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range meet in a tangle of peaks, by one of the most famous and dexterous pieces of engineering in the world. Another section of the Southern Pacific runs from San Francisco to San Jose, Santa Cruz and Monterey, and then up the long Salinas Valley, amid the fastnesses of the Coast Range. The California Southern Railroad connects National City and San Diego with Oceanside, San Bernardino and Barstow, a line of 211 miles of track. The Atlantic & Pacific Railroad crosses the Colorado River at the Needles, and meets the Southern at Barstow, and the Southern Pacific at Mojave. This is the famous Atchison, Topeka & Santa-F6 route, practically beginning at Chicago, and traversing the great southwestern section of the Republic. The Carson & Colorado narrow-gauge line comes down out of Nevada, in the tremend ous volcanic and silver-bearing gorge between the Sierra Nevada and the Inyo Range, and stops at Keeler, on Owen's Lake. The lovely and serene valleys north of San Francisco are traversed by several railways, with a single strand flying far north to Ukiah. Insurance. — The rapid development of property necessitated the forming of a local insurance interest ; and in 1862 a num ber of San-Francisco gentlemen filed incorporation papers for an insurance company, which was organized during the follow ing year. It took the name of the Fireman's Fund Insurance Company, designing to give a part of its profits to the charity fund of the local fire department. The Chicago fire inflicted on the company a loss of over $500,000 ; the Boston fire $200,- 000; and the Virginia-City fire, $164,000. All these disasters were promptly met ; and the capital of the company has ad vanced from $200,000 to $1,000,000, with assets of $2,500,000. For the past 1 5 years this solid corporation has never skipped a dividend, and its name is favorably known in every city of the East, where it is represented by many active agents. W if a) SAN FRANCISCO ; FIREMAN'S FUND INSURANCE CO. THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 99 l^ifMS^ ... ' . ~^fPW»»i Jt ^ a.. 0 SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS HARBOR, AND THE GOLDEN GATE. Finance. — The commercial banks of California have deposits amounting to $42,000,- 000; the savings banks hold $100,000,000. The State and its chief city, San Francisco, are practically out of debt. The Pacific Bank of San Francisco is the oldest chariered commercial bank on the Pacific Coast, and has a capital and reserve of $1,800,000, and resources of above $5,000,000. Within 25 years it has paid to its stockholders $1,500,000 in dividends; and its stock is held at $180 a share. The business transacted by this institution exceeds $225,000,000 a year, and is constantly growing in volume. The bank was founded by a number of con servative capitalists, in 1863, during the period of wild speculation in mining stocks, and arrested attention immediately by refusing mining stock as collateral, and avoiding dealing with brokers and speculators in these stocks. Adhering to this brave policy, the corpora tion has advanced slowly but steadily, first under the leadership of Gov. Peter H. Burnett (from 1863 to 1880), and ever since under the presidency of Dr. R. H. McDonald, who is also famous as an enthusiastic worker in the temperance cause. The extraordinary growth of California has resulted in the natural development of a State of great resources, aided very materially by the influx of well-to-do immigrants and investors from all over the United States. San Francisco is the great me tropolis and financial centre of the Pacific Coast, and has developed an important line of business in the way of real estate. The leader in this strong department of Pacific-Coast commercial affairs is the representative firm of Easton, Eldridge & Co., the largest real-estate house on the Coast and the peer of representative houses in this line of business in the world. Their operations are in cluded in the buying and selling of land, placing of san francisco ; pacific bank. capital for purchases or for loan, and subdividing of par- KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SAN FRANCISCO : EASTON, ELDRIDGE & CO. eels of property throughout the State (and in this department they have been identified with the leading colonization projects of the Pa cific Coast). In the excursion department special trains are run to different points, that new-comers may view California at a mod erate rate for transportation. The archives of the firm, which date back to the incorporation of the city, are open to inspectors. The management is Wendell Easton, President; George W. Frink, Vice-President; F. B. Wilde, Secretary; and the Anglo-California Bank of San Francisco, Treasurer. The firm has its principal offices in San Francisco, with ten departments in as many Californian cities, and 40 sub-agencies, with 200 employees. This vast and complicated business is conducted with a thorough system, and has achieved results of astonishing magnitude and success. Nowhere else have so many extensive colonies been successfully planned and started as in California, much of whose prosperity is due to the scientific skill with which its settlements have been established. Among the interesting developments of Pacific-Coast industry connected with the sea is the plant of the Tubbs Cordage Company, covering sixteen acres in the Potrero Nuevo district of San Francisco. This business began away back in 1858, when Alfred L. and Hiram Tubbs united their energies for its upbuilding. The local demand for many years was largely supplied from these rope-walks, the first established on the coast, and equipped for the manufacture of all kinds of cordage, from the hemp of Manila, Sisal and New Zealand. In the Tubb works 200 men and boys are engaged, aided by ingenious hemp- spinning and other machines, whose patents are owned or controlled by the company. The Tubbs family are among the foremost representatives of the successful and conser vative early settlers of California, and are identified with many of its leading social and san francisco : tubbs cordage co. commercial interests. Their industrial enterprise has been continuously successful. One of the great silk-mills of Belding Bros. & Co. has been established at San Fran cisco, and controls a large trade on the Pacific Coast. San Bernardino is the capital of the largest county in the United States, much of whose area belongs to the hopeless Mohave Desert. The valley of 1,600 square miles near the shire-town brings forth abundantly of wine, grapes and oranges. Indio, below the sea-level, is celebrated for the astonishing cures of pulmonary troubles, wrought by its dry, pure air. The most recent development of settlement in California has taken place in the counties of Tulare and Fresno, in the southern part of the Great Valley, where an enormous product of raisins is already being harvested. The United-States Census Bulletin of 1890 on Viticul ture, estimates that the yearly California raisin-crop of five years hence will reach from 8,000,000 to 10,000,000 boxes (of 20 pounds each). Tulare City, the metropolis of these two counties, stands on the Kaweah Delta, between the foot-hills and Tulare Lake, about midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. The extensive irrigation-canals of Tulare and Fresno, and of the neighboring Kern County, are re deeming vast areas of the richest soil, in an absolutely frostless climate. The development of this domain adds greatly to the capacity of California for bringing forth the pleasant fruits of the earth. ltef«E"i .,..;.: njpjwii!" '. ;.- -' :-, 1. ¦'[.:[", ,,.,.„. -¦ -—,<' ."5|C. ijElEESEIt; :;;:;n;:';;:;;^r;'FT;Tp| < ' f ¦ — SAN FRANCISCO : BELDING SILK FACTORY. " Colorado, rare Colo rado! Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Moun tains, her feet in the brown grass, the bound less plains for a play ground; she is set on a hill before the world, and the air is very clear, so that all may see her well." — Joaquin Miller. The first American to enter Colorado was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, U. S. A., who led a military exploring party here in 1806, soon after the Government had purchased Louisiana and an indefinite western region from France. He was captured by Spanish troops and taken to Chihuahua. Pike's Peak, for many decades the beacon of western civilization, will forever perpetu ate his memory; and Long's Peak similarly honors Maj. S. H. Long, who explored parts of Colorado in 1820. About the year 1840 Mexico made u. grant of a vast area of land in the Las-Animas region, to Cols. Vigil and St. Vrain; and a little later Bent established a trading-post on the Arkansas River. In 1844 Fremont explored North, Middle and South Parks, which were afterwards visited by a few French fur-traders. Colorado west of the Continental Divide belonged to Mexico, and was ceded to the United States in 1846, and became part of the new Territory of Utah. Colo rado east of the Divide lay in the huge province of Louisiana, a part of New France, ceded to Spain in 1763, restored to France in 1801, and sold to the United States in 1803. From then until 181 2 it lay in Louisi ana Territory; after that in Missouri Territory; and from 1854 in Nebraska and Kansas Territories. The regi belonged to the Republic of Texas from its foundation United States, when part of it was annexed to New Conejos, Mexicans. 1876 34,277 ¦ 39.864 • 194.327191,126 3, 201 STATISTICS Settled at . Settled in . . Founded by Admitted to the U. S., . Population in i860, In 1870, In i-"" White,'Colored,American-born, 1 54,537 Foreign-born, 39,790 Males, 129,131 Females, 65, 196 In 1890 (census), 410,975 Population to the square mile (1880) 1.9 Voting Population, . . Vote for Harrison (1888), . 50,774 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 37,567 State Debt o Real and Personal Property (1888), 8130,000,000 Banks, . . . Deposits, Savings Banks, Deposits, ... Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives (1 Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, Post-offices, .... Railroads (miles), . Capital, Gross Yearly Earnings, . . Manufactures (yearly, 1880), 814.260,159 Operatives, 5,074 Yearly Wages, . . . $2,314,527 Farm Land (acres, in 18S0), . 1,120,585 Farm-Land Values, . $25,109,223 Farm Products (yearly), . 85,000,000 Colleges and Professional Schools, 4 School- Population, .... 85,824 School-Attendance, .... 35, 567 Newspapers, . . . 268 Latitude, 37D'to4i°N. Longitude, .... 102* to 109° W. Temperature, .... — 37P to 1050 Mean Temperature (Denver), 48° TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR LATIONS. (1890.) Denver, . . . Pueblo Leadville, . . . Colorado Springs, Aspen, . . Trinidad,Boulder, . . . Georgetown, . . Salida, . . Fort Collins, 103,925 55 4.127 POPU- ion south of the Arkansas River until it became merged in the Mexico, and part to Kansas. KING'S HAND BOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. COLORADO SPRINGS, AND PIKE'S PEAK. As early as 1852, wandering Cherokees discov ered gold near the foot-hills ; but it was not until 1858 thatW. Green Russell's party of Georgians, and a company from Kansas, began to wash gold from the sands of the South Platte River. In May, 1859, John H. Gregory discovered gold at Black Hawk. When the news of these treasures of the mountains reached the East, a vast and tumultuous migration began across the untrodden plains, and the serene and lonely Pike's Peak became the magnet of thousands of brave adventurers. In 1 86 1, in order to make up the new Territory of Colorado, nearly 70,000,000 acres were taken from Utah, New Mexico, Kansas and Nebraska, the foresight of Gov. Gilpin securing the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. The constitutions drafted in 1859 and 1863 were rejected by the people ; but in 1865 they adopted one, and Congress passed a bill admiting the Territory to the Union. President Johnson vetoed this document, and for ten years longer the people remained under a Territorial government. When the Secession War broke out Colorado sent into the National army two regiments of cavalry, a regiment of infantry and a battery, besides raising consider able forces for home-defence. Threatened by rebels on one side and Indians on the other, many of the pioneers returned to the East, and ambitious cities vanished. Sibley's Confed erate invasion of New Mexico, in 1861, had for its chief object an advance to the Platte Valley and the occupation of the forts as far north as Laramie. Thus the Pacific States would be cut away from the Republic, and the overland routes closed. This deadly peril was averted by the Colorado volunteers, who did not wait for the invaders to reach their country, but advanced into New Mexico, and met and checked the triumph ant Confederates at La Glorietta (Apache Canon). After the war a new tide of immigration flowed into the Territory, and developed its resources rapidly and securely. The Ute Indians, formerly sole lords of the domain, were concentrated upon the White-River, Uncompahgre and Southern Reservations, whence most of them have been removed to Utah. The name Colorado is the past participle of the Spanish verb, colorar, "to color, "with a secondary meaning of "ruddy" or "blushing"; and was originally applied by the Spaniards to the Colorado River, whose water is red in hue, when swollen by heavy rains, from the disintegration of the reddish soils through which it flows. A popular nickname of Colorado is The Centennial State, because it was admitted to the Union in the hun dredth year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It is also called The Silver State. The older title of The Buffalo- Plains State is now meaningless, since the extinc tion of the bison. The people living here used to be called Pike's-Peakers. The Arms of Colorado include a shield, with a miner's pick and mallet crossed, and a range of snowy mountains. The motto is Nil Sine Numine, Latin words meaning : "Nothing with out God." The Governors of Colorado have been : Territorial: Wm. Gilpin, 1861-2; John Evans, 1862-5; Alex. Cummings, 1865-7; A. Cameron Hunt, 1867-9; Edward M. McCook, 1869-73; long's peak. Samuel H. Elbert, 1873-4; John L. Routt, GRAY'S PEAK. THE STATE OF COLORADO. 103 SIERRA BLANCA. 1874-6; State: John L. Routt, 1877-9; Frederick W. Pitkin, 1879-83 ; Jas. B. Grant, 1883-5 5 Benj. H. Eaton, 1885-7 ; Alva Adams, 1887-9 ; JOD A. Cooper, 1889-91. Geography. — Colorado covers an area equal to New Eng land and Ohio combined. Its three chief divisions are the Plains, the Foot-hills, and the Rocky Mountains. The Great Plains ascend from Kansas to the Foot-hills, a vast open region of low ridges and valleys, and at a general height of 5,000 feet above the sea. Everywhere the face of the country is covered with gorgeous wild flowers ; and modern irrigating processes are converting it into a rich garden of agriculture. The Divide is a ridge 7, 500 feet above the sea, running eastward from the Front Range, and separating the Platte and Arkansas waters. The Great Plains were originally treeless, save where belts of cottonwoods and aspens followed the courses of the rivers ; but since the advance of population hitherward, myriads of trees have been planted along the bare uplands. The Foot-hills run north and south, from 30 to 50 miles wide, with a height of from 6, 500 to 8, 000 feet, diversified and broken in their outlines, and generally abounding in timber and water. They contain many fertile valleys and grazing districts, and are rich in minerals, clays, and building stone. The Rocky Mountains form the Continental Divide, or water-shed, and traverse Colorado from north to south and southwest, with many tributary ranges. This magnificent labyrinth has two-score peaks of above 14,000 feet, and nearly 200 exceed ing 13,000. For 150 miles north and south, from Gunnison to North Park, the mountain-mass is 120 miles wide, and includes the Front, Park and Saguache Ranges. The Front Range is the eastern line of peaks, visible for scores of miles over the lonely plains toward the Mississippi, and forming a vast and impressive line of mountains, broken by several summits which over-tower the great wall. It is 120 miles long, beginning on the south at the famous Pike's Peak. The Ute, Loveland, Berthoud and Boulder Passes cross at high altitudes. Mounts Evans, Rosalie, and Torrey, and Gray's Peak (14,341 feet) and Long's Peak (14,271), are the signal points of this noble range ; and Mount Audubon, James Peak, the Arrapahoe Peaks and others are hardly less lofty. Pike's Peak (14,147 feet high) for many years gave its name to all Colorado. Its summit is reached by a long car riage-road, and also by a mountain-railway, built in 1 890 ; and is the seat' of a station of the U.-S. Signal Service. The views from this point, and from the oft-ascended Gray's, Long's and other peaks, are of immense extent and amazing grandeur. Across the great elliptical bowls of the parks is the Park Range, running from beyond Hahn's Peak, in Wyoming, south to the Arkansas Valley, and culminating around Mount Lincoln and Quandary Peak, of above 14,000 feet each, and surrounded by twenty other crests exceeding 13,000 feet. The Blue-River Range, twenty miles north, has a line of tremendous peaks, culminating in Mount Powell. The great continental water-shed between the Atlantic and grand canon of the Arkansas. SULTAN MOUNTAIN. 104 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MOUNTAIN OF THE HOLY CROSS. Pacific follows the Front Range south to Gray's Peak, and then bends westward for 20 miles, between Middle Park and South Park, including the Tennessee Pass (10,418 feet high), and then merging into the Saguache Range, the Colorado extension of the Sierra Madre of Mexico. This range has a height of above 13,000 feet for 80 miles, termi nating on the north at the majestic Mountain of the Holy Cross. It is a vast mass of -= granite, nearly a score of miles broad. The Saguache is one of the loftiest and most conspicuous of the Rocky- Mountain ranges, and its dominating peaks exceed 14,000 feet in height, rising in bristling groups around passes above 12,000 feet high. On the east is the rugged valley of the Arkansas ; and the Gunnison Valley opens away to the westward. The Mountain of tha Holy Cross bears on its side two snow-filled ravines, cutting each other at right angles, and forming a. vast cruciform deposit of glittering snow, visible from a great distance. The trappers and explorers of the early days gave its name to this noble mountain. Near Buena Vista rise the three college peaks, Harvard (14,375 feet), Yale (14,263) and Princeton (14,196). Between Holy Cross and Harvard, Mount Mas sive, Mount Elbert and La-Plata Peak each rise above 14,000 feet ; and Antero, Ouray and other peaks in the south also exceed this height. South of the Saguache, beyond the Marshall Pass, the Conti nental Divide runs for 75 miles southwest over a plateau, by the Cochetopa Hills, and then rises into the Sierra San Juan, passing southeast to the San-Luis Park, with many peaks above 13,000 feet high. The Sangre-de-Cristo Range is almost a continuation of the Saguache, from which it is separated only by the Poncho Pass, 9,000 feet high. Its magnificent Sierra Blanca is the loftiest summit in the Rocky Mountains, reaching an altitude of 14,463 feet, in white granite pinnacles amid snow and ice. Beyond the Veta Pass, and continuous with the Sangre-de-Cristo, the Culebra Range descends into New Mexico, ending near Santa Fe. The high Raton Hills run eastward from the Culebra, along the New-Mexican line. A few leagues north a short range pushes out towards the plains, culminating in the majestic cones of the Spanish Peaks, long ago the landmarks for way farers and caravans on the Santa-Fe trail. Else where the Greenhorn Range shelters Pueblo; the Rampart Range runs north from Pike's Peak ; and the Sierra Mojada (or Wet Mountains) runs north east from the Huerfano River, including the Rosita and Silver-Cliff mining districts. The Uncompahgre Mountains in southwestern Colorado begin at the tremendous volcanic crest of Uncompahgre Peak (14,235 feet), and are prolonged by the Sierra La Plata, to the canons of the Rio Mancos. This wild region has ten summits of above 14,000 feet. The Elk Mountains run south west 30 miles from the Saguache Range, a vast, confused and contorted volcanic upheaval of strata, with a lofty line of pinnacles ten leagues long. Among the most famous crests are Castlepeak (14,106 feet high), Maroon (14,000), Capitol (13,992), Snowmass (13,961), MIDDLE PARK. FREMONT PASS. THE STATE OF COLORADO. i°5 ' ¦„- ^r "2 sfli m^ ill %-. ' -^it \ " < ».. f ¦ i/A\ tm^Sef'l ¦ f'.' SSBIl' GRAND-RIVER CANON. Whiterock (13,847), Sopris (12,972), and Gothic (12,491). A number of the mining towns are at great altitudes among the Rockies. Caribou's elevation is 9,905 feet ; George town's, 8,514; Leadville's, 10,247; an(l the Present-Help Mine (on Mount Lincoln), 14,200. There are at least a dozen villages above the altitude of 10,000 feet, including Alma, Alicante, Fairplay, Kokomo, Mineral City, Montezuma, Montgomery, Summit Mines, Animas Forks, Irwin, Robinson, and Ruby Camp. The parks of Colorado are ancient lake-basins, walled in by stupendous mountain-ranges, and composed of beautiful undulating regions of dells and hillsides, with bright lakes and streams, shadowy woods, and a varied and abundant vegetation of forests, flowers and grasses. They run nearly the whole length of the State, just west of the Front Range, with an average width of 50 miles, and are separated from each other by high mountains. The wildest and least in habited of these great sierra-girt valleys is North Park, whose 2, 500 square miles of wooded hill-sides and meadows of buffalo-grass and sage-brush lie alongside of the Continental Divide. The North Platte River takes its rise here, amid forests haunted by deer and antelopes, wolves and bears ; and flows into Wyoming, where part of North Park lies. Southward, across the narrow and lofty Continental Divide, Middle Park covers 3,000 square miles of pleasant vales and wooded hills, 9,000 feet above the sea, and environed on three sides by magnificent snowy ranges, Long's Peak, Gray's Peak, and their lofty brethren. Middle Park forms Grand County, whose shire-town is on the shore of the deep Grand Lake, amid the frowning defiles of the Front Range. South Park, the most attractive of the series, is a lovely vale 40 miles long, walled in by the Rampart Range on the east and the snowy Park Range on the west, and watered by the silvery streams of the South Platte. This mountain-girt amphitheatre, with its wonderful variety and richness of scenery, is traversed by several railways and dotted with villages, mines and farms. Its average height is 9,000 feet above the sea. The San-Luis Park covers 9,400 square miles, walled in by the Sangre-de-Cristo and Culebra ranges on the east, and on the west by the Sierra San Juan. Here the Rio Grande del Norte takes its rise, amid noble forests. The settlers are Mexi cans and New-Englanders. The northern part is called the Rincon, and has a broad lake and a savanna, fed by a score of mountain-torrents, and surrounded by leagues of peat. This upper and wider section of the park abounds in dead lakes and failing streams, and its sandy soil can be cultivated only under artificial irrigation. The Saguache, Carnero, La Garita and other streams pour their mountain-born waters into the San-Luis and other small lakes without outlets. The valley of the Grand and Gunnison rivers and Roaring Fork received their first pioneers in 1880, trudging on the rude trail over the Rocky Mountains, and bearing their flour and provisions on their backs. Since then this vast area has developed CHICAGO LAKE. MARSHALL PASS. io6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEEDLE PEAKS, ANIMAS CANON. greatly, having inexhaustible fields of coal, iron, lead, copper and silver, and large areas of rich soil. The rivers of Colorado are unnavigable torrents, flowing down out of the mountains, with flashing cascades and other beauties. Here the Platte, Arkansas, Rio Grande and Colorado are bom, and the Repub lican and Smoky-Hill Forks of the Kansas. On the east the waters are skillfully availed of for the irrigation of the otherwise arid plains. The North Platte gathers its waters from the Con tinental Divide in North Park. The South Platte is born at Montgomery, on Buckskin Mountain, 11,176 feet high, and crosses the South Park, descending 6,000 feet before reaching Denver. The springs of the Arkansas are in the Tennessee Pass, and for scores of miles it flows like a silver thread at the bottom of a canon over a thousand feet deep, culminating at the Royal Gorge, near Canon City. The Arkansas flows across the Plains southeast for 500 miles in Colorado, receiving the waters of the Greenhorn, Huerfano, Apisha, Purgatory, Cimmaron, Fon- taine-qui-Bouille and fifty other streams. The Purgatory River traverses a wonderful canon 50 miles long, with walls 800 to 1,000 feet high, amid whose gloomy shadows (if tradition may be believed) an entire Spanish regiment was lost. The Rio Grande del Norte rises in the Sierra San-Juan, and flows east and south through the San-Luis Valley, and into New Mexico. Routt County, in the northwest, is traversed by the Yampah River for 100 miles, rising in the Park Range, and at last rushing through the dark Yampah Canon, into Green River. Grand River flows from Middle Park 350 miles southwest through the weird Plateau country, receiving the Gunnison and Dolores, and then uniting with the Green River to form the Colorado of the West. White River lies between the Yampah and Grand, amid the singular and deeply interesting forma tions of the City of the Gods and the Cathedral Bluffs. The Animas, Mancos and other tributaries of the San Juan drain the chaotic mountains of southwestern Colorado into the Colorado River. In this remote region, along the Hovenweep and McElmo, are found the ruined houses and watch-towers of the long-extinct cliff-dwellers, driven ages ago to these holes in the precipice-walls by deadly enemies, Aztecs or Apaches. Some of the ruins are 700 feet long, con structed of massive blocks of stone, or cut, with vast labor, from the live rock. Much of the finest scenery of the Atlantic slope of Colorado occurs in the wonderful canons which the streams have cut in the sides of the mountains, with perpendicular granite or sandstone walls. Boulder, Cheyenne, Clear-Creek, Grape-Creek and other canons are famous for their remarkable scenery, and the Grand Cation of the Arkansas is even more impressive and wonderful. West of the main range, the streams flow in the bottoms of yet more prodigious canons, with rock-walls half a mile or more high, generally nearly precipitous, and sometimes even overhang ing their bases. The Black and Grand Canons of the Gunnison, the long gorge of the Uncompahgre, and the deep trench in "falls™ chipet GARDEN OF THE GODS, AND PIKE'S PEAK. THE STATE OF COLORADO. 107 ROYAL GORGE. which the Rio Dolores flows, are remarkable for their extent and grandeur. High up among the sunlit peaks many crystalline lakes reflect the clear sky and the granite spires above them, and send their bright waters plunging and murmuring down the rugged canons. Near Georgetown is the deep emerald expanse of Green Lake, with Clear Lake above it, and Elk Lake at the edge of the timber-line. The Twin Lakes, 14 miles from Leadville, lie at the base of the lofty Mount Elbert, 9,357 feet above the sea, and their unusual beauty has caused the erection of a settlement of summer-hotels and cottages on the shores. The five Evergreen Lakes mirror the huge sides of Mount Massive ; and the crag-bound Chicago Lakes spread their transparent waters high up near Mount Evans, the upper most of them being 11,434 feet above the sea, and perpetually frozen. Palmer Lake, on the Divide, midway between Denver and Pueblo (7,238 feet high), has on its shore a pleasant health-resort village and sanitarium. Vast areas of white and yellow pine, hemlock and cedar still remain on the mountains. The abundant scrubby pifions and junipers of the foothills and plateaus are useful only as fuel. The ridges and mountains are covered with noble evergreen trees, up to 9,000 feet, with thin and distorted trees for 3,000 feet higher, or up to the timber-line, above which the peaks are bleak rocks, with slight patches of grass and alpine flowers. The wild animals of the highlands include bears, wolves, panthers, wildcats, antelopes, elk, deer, beaver, otter and wild fowl. On the plains millions of prairie-dogs dwell, with deer, wolves, hares and other game, yearly dwindling away. The Climate of this great mountain-realm naturally has a wide diversity, from the high summer-heats of the plains to the perpetual snows of the main range. The east winds are damp and cold ; the west winds, though blowing across hun dreds of leagues of snowy ranges, are warm and dry. As a rule, the nights are cool and (on the Atlantic slope) dewless, even when the days reach 900. The foot-hills have hot summers, with cool nights, and mild winters, with snow seldom abiding long. The mean tempera ture at Denver is, in winter, 30. 30; spring, 48. 70; summer, 69. 70; and autumn, 50. 70. Changes are frequent and sharp, but the dryness of the air mitigates their severity. From November to March snow may come, and thence till the close of summer short rain- showers refresh the country. More than 300 days in each year are either clear or partly clear. From July to October the sky is bright and cloudless, and the air is pure, sweet and exhilarating. "An air more delicious to breathe cannot anywhere be found," says Bayard Taylor. This climate is favorable to health and vigor ; and the pleasant country of the foot-hills is a great and beneficent sanitarium, especially for sufferers from bronchial and pulmonary complaints. These diseases are arrested in the dry highland air ; and many Eastern people now enjoy good health in Colorado who would have died if they had remained in their old homes. It is necessary for most invalids to avoid high altitudes, and remain at the health-resorts below the line of feet. The electric air excites the nervous GREEN LAKE. VETA PASS. 7,OO0 io8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GLENWOOD SPRINGS. systems of newcomers to a high tension, producing a sort of intoxication of good health, with keen appetite, perfect digestion and sound sleep. The great highland sanitarium of Colorado is endowed very richly with medicated mineral and thermal springs, many of which are provided with hotels and bath-houses. The beautiful and salubrious city of Colorado Springs was founded in 1871, and is 6,000 feet above the sea, and ten miles east of Pike's Peak, with shielding mountain-walls on north, west and southwest, and a sea-like expanse of the plains opening on the east and south. This famous climatic health-resort illustrates its culture by the El-Paso and Colorado-Springs Clubs, the Country Club, the University Club, twelve churches, a choral union, the best of schools, a theatre, and an absolute prohibition of liquor sales. In the vicinity are those wonders of nature, the Cheyenne Canons ; Glen Eyrie, and Blair Athol, with their fantastic and bright-colored rocks ; the Garden of the Gods, with miles of weird and storm-woni pinnacles and towers of red sandstone, some of them above 3,000 feet high, "a symphony in red and yellow ;" and Monument Park, crowded with sculptured rock-figures of great variety. Five miles nearer the moun tains lies the famous health-resort of IsfJ^fifrjXgi Manitou, with its soda, iron, seltzer and Sijftpr'Tif sulphur springs (like those of Ems), * -- - - attracting 100,000 persons a year to the adjacent hotels. The caverns near Manitou contain great halls and corridors, adorned with stalactites ; and the canons and rock-sculptures all around afford continual interest. This sunny cove in the mountains lies at the mouth of the Ute Pass, in a wonderfully stimulating air. Idaho Springs rush from the base of Santa-Fe Mountain, near the head of the beautiful Clear-Creek Canon. There are both hot and cold waters, used in various forms of baths, and the analysis shows ingredients like those of the Carlsbad Springs. This locality is much visited by consumptives, who find healing in the medicinal fountains. Canon City, near the picturesque Grape-Creek Canon and the Royal Gorge of the Arkan sas, has soda springs and hot springs. The Boulder saline water enjoys a large sale throughout America and Europe. There are valuable springs at Morrison, a fashionable mountain-resort 20 miles from Denver, and near Bear Cation and the Garden of the Angels. Springdale, ten miles above Boulder, has tonic iron waters. The Haywood and Cottonwood Hot Springs, near Buena Vista, are visited by thousands of health-seekers. In the narrow Wagon-Wheel Gap, where the upper Rio Grande roars down through a palisaded cleft in the mountains, are hot and cold soda and sulphur springs, with a large hotel and bath-houses. The Soda Springs near Leadville are under the shadow of the Saguache Range. Poncho Hot Springs, near Salida, form a group of 55 sources of clear, odorless and tasteless water, with hotels and bath-houses and a great number of visitors. Pagosa Springs, between the Sierra San-Juan and the grassy plains of New Mex ico, bubble up in a great rocky basin, and supply purga tive alkaline waters of high medicinal value. They have a temperature of 1400 ; and the steam from the basin can be seen for miles, in cool weather. Glenwood Springs are ten in number, pouring out every minute 8,000 gallons of warm water, powerfully medicated, alkaline, saline, sulphurous and chalybeate, some of them phantom curve. in hot vaporous caves near the Grand River, and others THE STATE OF COLORADO. 109 WAGON-WHEEL GAP. provided with large bath-houses. Shaw's Magnetic Springs are near Del Norte. Trimble's Hot Springs and the Pinkerton Springs are near Durango. Estes Park, 60 miles from Denver, and 4 by 6 miles in area, is a beautiful pleasure-resort of the Colora- dians, close to Long's Peak. Near the hotel a group of medicinal springs pour forth their healing waters. The Hot Sulphur Springs, six in number, boil out from the base of a cliff at the head of Troublesome Canon, in Middle Park, and are pro vided with baths. Higher up in the mountains several soda springs pour out their effervescing waters. South Park contains a group of saline and alkaline springs, and also Hartzell's Hot Sulphur Springs. Steamboat Springs, in Routt County, form a group of eighty hot fountains, at the foot of the Park Range. Agriculture has -not until lately assumed commanding proportions in Colorado, owing partly to insect pests, aridity of climate, and early and late frosts. The farmers have found out how to check the grasshoppers and other winged devourers. The aridity of the soil has been overcome by artificial irrigation, by whose aid over 3,000,000 acres are now under profitable cultivation, with an area increasing every year. Thirty-five thousand miles of canals and ditches are now in operation, and $10,000,000 has been spent in their construction. One of these canals takes water from the Cache-a-la-Poudre River, and carries it for 54 miles over the dry plains of Larimer and Weld, irrigating 120,000 acres. The canals running from the perennial moun tain-streams are tapped by smaller lateral ditches leading to the higher slopes of the farms, and minor ditches reach the fields, which are in turn gridironed by plough furrows. When the land needs water, the gates of the laterals are opened and crystal streams flow down the field-ditches, and are admitted into the furrows by taking away a shovelful of earth from each one. In a brief hour the land is refreshed as from a prolonged soaking rain. The amount needed varies from 50 to 75 cubic feet an acre, for the season, costing less than $2 in all. The State is divided into five water divisions, each under a superintendent of irrigation ; and the divisions are sub-divided into water districts, each with a water commissioner. These officials, under the supervision of the State engineer, distribute the waters according to priority of rights. The farm-products even now exceed $12,000,000 a year, and include 3,000,000 bushels of wheat, making a very white and dry flour, 2,000,000 of oats, 1,500,000 Of corn, 200,000 of barley, 3,000,000 of potatoes, 400,000 tons of hay, $400,000 worth of dairy products, 500,000 pounds of honey, and all manner of vege tables, grapes, berries, and hardy fruits. There are half a million apple-trees. Peaches flourish west of the mountains ; and part of the Arkansas Valley is famous for its watermelons and grapes. Alfalfa has become the leading farm-product, and is even crowding out wheat. The crop was 1,000 tons in 1880, 1,000,000 in 1888, and 3,000,000 in 1889. It is a tenaciously hardy clover, with long tap-roots, and yields three cuttings a year, each of nearly two tons an acre. This enormous crop is all kept in the State, and fed to the live-stock, being the best of beef-producing foods. CURRECANTI NEEDLE. CATHEDRAL ROCK. KING'S HAND BOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ALPINE PASS. Timothy, orchard and blue grass also produce three to four tons to the acre yearly. Stock-raising has long been a. leading industry of Colorado, where domestic animals do not require shelter or feeding in winter, howbeit occasionally a severe season kills many range animals. The grasses are nutritious and abundant, and the cattle thrive on the dry natural hay. Latterly, the Great Plains have been occupied by the farmers, and the cattle, restricted to the poorest ranges, are moving elsewhere. Two thirds of the herds are on the farms, where agricul tural and stock-raising interests are blended, as in the older States, and the animals are more carefully fed and looked after in winter. The quality of the cattle has been greatly improved by importing thoroughbreds and crossing Short Horns and Polled Anguses with the Texan animals. The number of cattle in the State exceeds 1,500,000. Sheep- raising employs $5,000,000 capital. The drought of 1880 and the repeal of the ad-valorem duty on wool gave severe blows to this industry, but the flock-masters still count 2,000,000 sheep, and send 10,000,000 pounds of wool to the Eastern markets yearly. Mining began with the discovery of gold placers, in 1858, near Denver, and enormous profits have since been realized. The Small-Hopes mine paid $3,000,000 in two years ; and many others reached an equal productiveness. Placer-mining was succeeded in 1870 by hydraulic min ing, and this a few years later by the sulphurets and tellurides. The Ouray and San-Juan mines yield free- milling gold. West of 1050 the vast mountains are banded with veins of silver and lodes of gold, of incalcula ble value. From the rich chlorides of Silver Cliff to the great argentiferous mountains around Silverton, and from the native gold of Boulder to the fine copper of Unaweep, extend the great treasuries of the hills. The bullion production of Colorado has passed $300,000,000. In the five years, 1880-1-2-3-4, it exceeded $100,000,000. The Leadville district in 1878-9-80-1-2, turned out $68,000,000; and little Gilpin County has yielded $32,000,000 in gold. Silver-mining was not much heeded during the golden age of Colorado, but now it is the second silver-producing State, and turns out four times as much silver as gold. There are 1,200 stamps, forever hammering away at gold and silver ore, in the mining camps. The Leadville product holds above $12,000,000 a year, mainly in silver, and the smelters and roasters are kept busy with their rich carbonates of lead and silver. Upwards of $60,000,000 in ore is in sight at Lead ville, and the miners profess to be discouraged "because they have to dig through four feet of solid silver to get down to the gold." The Aspen mines have sent out millions of dollars' worth of ore. The city of Aspen, with its 5,000 inhabitants, five churches, electric lights and brick blocks, nestles in a cup-shaped valley 7,500 feet above the sea. Upwards of $50,000,000 worth of lead and $6,000,000 worth of copper have come from the Colorado hills ; almost LOOP NEAR GEORGETOWN. DOME ROCK. THE STATE OF COLORADO. entirely from gold and silver bearing ores. The lead exported reaches an average of over a thousand tons a week, mainly from the Leadville region. The iron of Colorado occurs mostly in hematite and magnetite ores, with 60 per cent, of metal, and covers great areas. It is stated by scientific explorers that Gunnison County alone has a supply of iron equal in extent to all that of Pennsylvania. The coal-fields cover 40,000 square miles, the seams averaging about five feet in thick ness. The 50 working mines employ 5,400 men. The output of coal rose from 8,000 tons in 1869 to 2,400,000 at present. Much of the Colo rado coal is bituminous, but large areas of pure anthracite have been opened near Glenwood Springs and New Castle. Lignite beds follow the eastern base of the mountains for 200 miles. Petroleum was discovered at Florence, just below the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, in 1882. There are 25 wells in that district, producing 140,000 barrels of illuminants and 160,000 barrels of lubricants. Of late years large quarrying industries have arisen in the ridges outside the foot-hills. The Union Pacific Railroad has sandstone quarries at Lyons, and others in and around Stout. The Marble-Glen quarries, near Fort Collins, contain inexhaustible supplies. Sandstones are found in great variety, the white of Manitou, the red and white of Morrison, the pale green of Cation City, the pink and yellow of other localities, and the great quarries of Trinidad. Marble occurs in white, black, pink and variegated colors. Colorado City has an inexhaustible quarry of red sandstone ; Hancock and Pine Creek, gray granite ; Nathrop, lava ; Calumet, dolomite and marble ; and Colorado Springs, gypsum, supplying the Rocky- Mountain district with plaster of Paris and cement. Government. — The Colorado State House at Denver is a handsome modern building of Gunnison granite. When completed ESTES PARK. - • •> it will have cost over $1,500,000. The State institutions include the Insane Asy lum, at Pueblo ; the Institution for the Education of the Mute and the Blind, at Colorado Springs ; the State Reform School, at Golden; and the Penitentiary, at Cation City. The public schools are of high grade and efficient organization. Nearly $4, 000, - OOO are invested in school property ; and the State holds 3,000,000 acres of school- lands, whose sale will afford a great educa tional fund. The Normal School is at Greeley. The University of Colorado, endowed by Congress, the State and citizens of Boulder, was incorporated in i860, and opened at Boulder in 1877. It has 21 instructors and 31 collegiate students, besides 120 in other departments. The State School of Mines, at Golden, has 46 students. The Agricultural College, at Fort Collins, has 130 students. The Presbyterian College of the Southwest, at Del Norte, and Denver University (Meth odist) have opened within ten years. Colorado College, at Colorado Springs, dates from 1874. There are small medical schools at Denver and Boulder. The Rocky-Mountain University, of Denver, received incorporation in 1887, and has a successful medical college. The great Jesuit college, at North Denver, occupies a noble building, erected at a cost of $500,000. Wolfe Hall and Jarvis Hall are flourishing Episcopal schools at Denver. The IDAHO SPRINGS. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. National Government maintains an Indian school at Grand Junction. The chief United- States military post in Colorado is Fort Logan, near Denver. The ancient border strong hold of Fort Lyon was evacuated in 1890. Fort Crawford is a garrisoned post near Montrose ; and Fort Lewis, near Durango, guards the Ute reservation. The Railways of Colorado are famous for their bold engineering, and their wonderful achievements in the passage of lofty mountains and unparalleled gorges. They have been built in advance of population, and the rapid growth of the State is in part due to their agency. Eight lines enter from the east ; five go into the mountains ; and one crosses the western border into Utah. The Union Pacific has 1,272 miles in the State. The Bur lington & Missouri-River Railroad runs from Denver into Nebraska. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific Railroad runs east to Kansas and beyond. The Mis- 0URAY- souri Pacific starts east from Pueblo. The Denver, Texas & Fort-Worth Railroad runs from Denver across the Pan Handle of Texas, and at Fort Worth meets the network of Texan railways. The Denver & Rio-Grande Railroad is peculiarly a Coloradian enterprise, with Denver and Espafiola (near Santa Fe) as its termini, and many branches. This line crosses the Veta Pass and the San-Luis Park, turning north to Silverton. It traverses the famous Toltec Gorge, where the line is carried high along the face of a tremendous precipice, with the river foaming far below. Animas Canon has also been penetrated by its locomotives. The line from Pueblo to Salt Lake-City is one of the most wonderful scenic routes in the world, and trav erses the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, on rocky shelves far above the whirling waters. Ten miles of this track cost $1,400,000, being one of the most expensive section of rail way in the world. The workmen were suspended over the cliffs by ropes, while blasting the rock to get foot-hold. This route crosses the lofty Marshall Pass, with an almost spiral pathway of iron loops ascending through the continental surges of granite and snow ; and traverses the dark cations of the Gunnison and Uncompahgre, and the weird Book Plateaus. The Rio-Grande line crosses the Fremont Pass, 11,540 feet above the sea ; the Tennessee Pass, 10,340 ; and the Marshall Pass, 10,560. Alpine Tunnel, 11,623 feet above the sea, and 1,773 feec l°ng, is the loftiest railroad construction in North America. The perpetual snow-banks send their waters on one side to the Atlantic, and on the other to the Pacific. The line crosses the Sangre- -.-, ¦¦, -.-.... _^_l_i de-Cristo Range, not far from Sierra Blanca, :.; " V '' "^§^sL3^^^^ and on this stupendous ascent the road DENVER : DENVER CLUB. HIGH SCHOOL. climbing at the rate of over 216 feet to the mile. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe Railroad runs from Denver south to Pueblo, and thence east down the Ar kansas Valley into Kansas. A southern extension branches off at La Junta, for Mexico and Southern California. The Colorado Midland runs from Colorado Springs over the Ute Pass into South Park, and crosses the Park Range, with superb views of the Saguache and Sangre-de-Cristo Ranges. It then ascends to Leadville, and arduously climbs the Saguache Range, running for a long distance among the barren rocks above the timber-line. THE STATE OF COLORADO. "3 BELOW FREMONT PASS. Chief Cities. — Denver was founded in 1858, on the South Platte River, 15 miles east of the mountains, and named for Gov. James W. Denver of Kansas. It slopes toward and views the Rocky Mountains, and is about a mile above the sea, with a rare, dry, clear and sunshiny air, and park-like shadowy streets, lined with fine public buildings. Denver is an important railway junction, and the commercial metropolis and trading centre for a vast area ; and has many factories, the best of artesian well-water, and scientific sewerage. The view from its upper parts includes a superb crescent of purple and white mountains, more than 200 miles long, from Pike's Peak, in the south, to beyond Long's Peak, in the north. Leadville, the foremost carbonate mining- camp in the world, stands on the Rocky Moun tains, nearly two miles above the sea-level. From 1859 to 1864 it bore the name of Cali fornia Gulch, and yielded $1,000,000 a year in gold dust. After this it was nearly abandoned, until 1876, when the great beds of silver carbon ate were unearthed. Pueblo is one of the chief cities of Colorado, surrounded by leagues of rich farms, with an admirable climate, and but 40 or 50 miles by a down grade from the mountains, which con tain inexhaustible quantities of coal and minerals. It is "the Pittsburgh of the West," the key of southern Colorado, the meeting point of numerous railways, and humming with steel-works, foundries, lead-works, nail-works and rolling-mills. Glenwood Springs is the supply-point and railway-centre of the Grand River Valley, with iron and coal mines, water- works, electric lights, and two daily papers. It is 5,200 feet above the sea-level. Among other Colorado towns are Fort Collins and Greeley, on the wheat-growing plains ; Trinidad, in the south, with important iron manufactures ; Golden and Boulder and Cation City, with their mines, manufactures and schools ; Central, the seat of gold-mines ; and the active mining-camps of the Rocky Mountains, Gunnison, Ouray, Breckenridge, Salida, Sil- verton and others. If the pioneer gold-hunters of a generation ago should revisit the plains of Denver, in their day so lonely and desolate, they would find matter for wonder and amazement in the splendid modern metropolis which has risen here, face to face with the Titantic wall of the Rocky Mountains. Nothing would cause them more surprise than the new Broadway Theatre, a great fire-proof building, admirable in its lines of view and acoustic properties, rich in scenery, and perfect in mechanical arrangements, with a stage of steel and terra cotta, the most comfortable and luxurious of furnishings, and an asbestos curtain. The Hotel Metropole in Denver adjoins the Broadway Theatre and is part of the same great pile of buildings, beautiful in architecture and massive in construction. It is conducted on the European plan, and was opened in 1891, with 130 guest-rooms, and a series of public apart ments that would do credit to London or Paris. The wig wams of the old frontier days have vanished forever, with the era of "revolvers and-canned fruit " ; and the traveler from the East, West, North and South may rest here at the new Metropole amid all the luxuries of the nineteenth century, and in a hostelry as uninflammable as Pike's Peak. Finance. — The first bank in Colorado was opened in 1862; and in 1865 the First National Bank of Denver came into existence. The Denver Clearing-HouseAssocia- denver : broadway theatre and tion contains eleven banks, and its yearly clearings reach metropole hotel. ii4 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. DENVER: FIRST NATIONAL BANK. $220,000,000. The First National Bank does the heaviest business of all, and has achieved a remarkable success in build ing up a general banking business. It is one of the United-States depositories ; and has a combined capital and surplus of $ I , ooo, - ooo. The magnificent building of this institution stands in the heart of Denver, and is very thoroughly equipped and appointed, and richly decorated. The safe-deposit vaults underneath are invincible by fire or burglars, and contain great treasures. The First National Bank finds a valuable business in individual and firm accounts, collections, country-bank accounts, and the advancement of the interests of correspondents. Smelting is the greatest mechanical industry of Colorado, whose precious yellow and white metals have passed into the bullion currency of the country to the extent of hundreds of millions of dollars. Denver is one of the foremost manufac turers of the precious metals in the world, and the rivers of gold and silver continuously flowing from her furnaces practically irrigate the commercial channels of the nation. The scientific processes of smelting have made great advances during the last quarter of a century, and their high success has stimulated mining industries in all parts of the country. Upwards of $ I o, ooo, ooo are invested in the smelters of Denver, j ^^ — - - The Omaha & Grant Smelting and Refining Com- "Si'i- =- pany resulted from a combination of the Omaha j ".-.. Smelting Company, of Omaha and Denver, with the / __-_- * :. J_; Grant Smelting Company originally founded at Lead ville in 1878 by ex-Gov. James B. Grant. The works at Denver cover nearly fifty acres and employ 500 men, their 35 immense roasting, calcining and fusing furnaces consuming daily 400 tons of ores, from the Rocky-Mountain and Pacific States and Mexico. The yearly product of these works and of the larger and older furnaces belonging to the same company at Omaha, exceeds $15,000,000 in gold and silver, copper and lead. The capital of the Omaha & Grant is $2,500,000. It is the largest establishment of its kind in the world. Guy C. Barton is its president ; James B. Grant, vice-president ; and W. H. James, superintendent. The Boston & Colorado Smelting Company has extensive works at Argo, near Denver, and is devoted to the smelting of gold, silver and copper ores in reverberatory furnaces, and the application of the Ziervogel process to silver "matte." The company was founded in 1867 by Nathaniel P. Hill, professor of chemistry at Brown University, who came to this region in 1864 to make a report on its mines, for certain eastern capitalists. The works were removed from Black Hawk to Denver in 1879. They have enjoyed a constantly increasing patronage, and their output of the preci ous metals already exceeds $65,000,000. Mr. Hill has represented Colorado in the U. -S. Senate, with great efficiency, especially in the debates on irrigation, the silver question, deep-water harbors in Texas, the removal of the Ute Indians, the wool tariff and the postal telegraph. His introduction of the first successful method of treating refractory ores has been worth scores of millions of dollars to Colorado, and has added greatly to the wealth Denver Cargo,) : bost. & colo. smelting works. of the United States. DENVER : OMAHA & GRANT SMELTING WORKS. THE STATE OF COLORADO. "5 DENVER, AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. The Colorado Coal & Iron Company, one of the foremost of the industries of the West, was the outgrowth of the researches of Gen. Wm. J. Palmer, who was one of the first (as well as one of the most careful and thorough) prospectors of Colorado. The company acquired extensive fields of the best coking, steam and domestic coal ; the richest hematite, magnetic and Bessemer iron ores ; valuable oil lands ; and favorably located town-sites and agricultural lands. It also has operated its mines and erected furnaces, rolling-mills and steel-works. Its coke is conceded to be of superior quality. Its steel rails have been found the equal of any, after being very thoroughly tested by various roads ; and its iron pipe, spikes and merchant iron find ready sale. The furnaces, and steel and other mills are located at Pueblo, the second city in Colorado, advantageously situated as a railroad centre, and surrounded by a large area of land admirably adapted to agriculture, and supplied with irrigation by the Bessemer Ditch, now opened, mainly through the efforts of the Colorado Coal & Iron Co. Pueblo, already a large manufacturing centre, is growing in a substantial manner. It has a population of about 35,000, with the usual evidences of modern progress, water-works, electric lights, and electric cars. Its new Opera House, erected from plans of Adler & Sullivan, the architects of the great Chicago Auditorium, is one of the finest struc tures of this character in the West. The new buildings that have been erected within the past few years give the city a vigorous and flourishing character. The Colorado Coal & Iron Company own large tracts about the city suitable for agricultural or manufacturing pur poses, and have been instrumental in bringing many of the smelters and other business con cerns here, by a liberal and wise course in that direction. During the year 1890 the company sold land to the value of over $1,000,000 ; it mined 800,000 tons of coal ; and made 120,000 tons of coke, 42,000 tons of pig iron, and 25,000 tons of steel rails. Its gross earnings, ex clusive of sales of real estate, were $2,840,000. Its capital is $10,000,000, and its bonded debt is $3, 500,000 ; and its rapidly increasing sinking-fund already reaches $345,000. The mineral development of Colorado has been greatly advanced by this enterprising company. The geological history of the West is concerned mainly with the gradual upheaval of the great continental mountain-range from be neath the sea. Beginning with the emer gence of the Sierra Madre from the waste of waves, this uplifting of the land ad vanced northward ; and the Sierra San Juan of Colorado is probably the most ancient section of firm ground on this side of the Republic. Later, the other ranges slowly appeared above the sea, the Sangre-de-Cristo and Sierra Mojada, pueblo : Colorado coal & iron co. and finally the Front Range. For ages n6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PUEBLO : union railway depot. the ocean beat against the steep western de clivities ; and the more gradual eastern slopes were formed by the deposits washed down from the peaks into the shallow waters on that side. The mountain-walls encircled many lakes of salt water, which finally drained off through the canons, leaving the broad basins of the parks, for the homes of the coming empire. "Colorado is the flpwer of a peculiarly western civilization, in which is mingled the best blood of the North and the South, the virile sap of New England and the Carolinas — a truly American State." The growth of Denver in population and in influence has been one of the most remark able instances of the great Western development. Well-known public men have predicted that the fourth city of the New World will occupy this locality, inside of a century. The first governor of Colorado, William Gilpin, used to say that he came into these remote soli tudes to "found an empire;" and claimed for the country the distinction of "straddling the axis of the temperate zone." The highlands near Denver, now being occupied by bright suburban villages and public institutions, command on the east a prospect over boundless expanses of prairie, and on the west a sublime panorama of mountains. PUEBLO : grand opera house. "A drive of twelve miles brings us to the Grand Canon of the Ar kansas. Disappointment is bitter, and feelings of resentment almost beyond control, as nowhere can the eye discover the cation. In the immediate fore ground the pinon growth is rank and dense; just beyond, great bleak ridges of bare, cold rock contrast strongly with the profusion of foliage hiding every thing beneath from sight, while away in the dim dis tance the snow-crowned peaks of the continental divide are outlined sharp and clear against the solid blue of the morning sky. Though grand beyond anything we have seen, in amazing extent of vision, the mind is so wrapped up in the anticipation of full realization of the gloom, and vastness, and solemn grandeur of the Grand Canon, as to resent almost angrily their ap parent absence. A half dozen steps from the clump of pinon trees, where the horses have been fastened, and all thoughts of resentment, of disappointment and chagrin vanish, and a cry of absolute terror escapes us. At our very feet is the canon — another step would hurl us into eternity. Shuddering, we peer down the awful slopes ; fascinated, we steal a little nearer to circumvent a mountain that has rolled into the chasm, and at last the eye reaches down the sharp incline 3,000 feet to the bed of the river, the impetuous Arkansas, 40 to 60 feet in width, yet to us a mere ribbon of molten silver. Though surging madly against its rocky sides, leap ing wildly over gigantic masses of rock and hoarsely murmuring against its imprisonment within these lofty walls, it finds no avenue of escape. Every portion of these marble bastions is as smooth as if polished, and as stationary as the mighty walls that look down upon them from such fearful height." Turning from this awful gorge to the equally astonishing chasms beyond the Continental Divide, the antiquary finds there the silent and unrevealing vestiges of a lost peo ple. Over three centuries ago the Spaniards found these same ruins, just as now, the houses hewn from the solid rock of the mesas and cliffs, and the other architectural constructions concerning whose builders and occupants even tradition is silent. canon on the saguache. STATE CAPITOL HARTFORD HISTOK Y. The little Commonwealth of Connecticut, nestling be tween New York, Massa chusetts and Rhode Island, with Long - Island Sound and a glimpse of the open sea on the south, holds a proud place among the American States, by reason of the gen eral high cultivation of her people, and the wonderful in genuity of her inventors and mechanics. This rich and happy Christian community has risen in a land once drenched with savage blood, and its peaceful industrial villages have replaced the wigwams of warring red men. The Indians of pre-historic Connecticut numbered fewer than 20,000. All the Connecticut tribes were tributaries of the warlike Mohawks, of New York, whose envoys made yearly tours through. their domains, collecting tribute and promulgating the edicts of the Five Nations. About the year 1600 a clan of the New- York Mohicans cut their way through these vassal villages, and settled near the Mystic River, whence they waged almost perpetual warfare upon the Narragan- setts, and ground down the local tribes. This was the cele brated Pequot tribe, numbering 700 brave warriors, under the lead of the Sachem Sassacus. The Dutch purchased the land from the lawful Pequot authorities, and the Massa chusetts colonists also secured from Sassacus permission to trade and settle here. Sir Harry Vane sent Endicott to fight the Pequots, with little result; and in 1637 Con necticut despatched Capt. John Mason against them, with ninety Englishmen, aided by Uncas and 70 In dians. In a long battle near Groton, the tribal power was broken, and 500 of the savages lost their lives. A remnant of the Mohegan tribe still holds a reservation on Massapeag Mountain (or Mohegan Hill), below Norwich, overlooking the Thames, where every Sep- Lber they have a'festival, in a wigwam of forest-boughs, set off with succotash , yokeag baked quahaugs and other Indian delicacies. The first European explorer heieabouts was STATISTICS. Settled at . . Windsor. Settled in 1633 Founded by Massachusetts men. One of the original 13 States. Population, in i860, . 460,147 In 1870, . . 537«154 In 1S80, 622, 7C0 White 610,769 Colored, . . . - n,93i American-born, . 492>7o8 Foreign-born, . . 129,902 Males, . . . 305-702 Females, ... . 3io»9°° In 1890 (census), . . . ; 746.258 Population to the square mile, 128.5 Voting Population (1S80), . I77.291 Vote for Harrison (1888), . 74,5°4 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 74.92° Net State Debt (1890), . S*. 239.752 Real Property, . . $244,000,000 Personal Property, . §105,000,000 Banks . . 93 Savings Banks, 86 Deposits, .... SII2,ooo,ooo Area (square miles), . . 4,99° U. S. Representatives, 4 Militia (Disciplined), . . 2,513 Counties, .... 8 Cities, ¦ 12 Towns, . *°° Post-offices, . ¦ 5*0 Railroads (miles), . 1.005 Capital, S65.ooo,ooo Gross Yearly Earnings, 820,000,000 Manufactures (yearly), 8186,000,000 Operatives 116,000 Farm Land (in acres), \ 2,400,000 Farm Population, . . 44,000 Farm Values, . . . §135,000,000 Farm Products (yearly), ® 18,000, 000 Colleges, 3 Public Schools, . . 1,650 School Children, . . . i35.°oo Newspapers, . . . . J82 Temperature, . . . — 140 to IO°a Mean Temperature (New Haven), 49 TEN CHIEF C1TIFS AND THlilK POPU LATIONS (ibgo) New Haven, 86,045 Hartrord, . . 53,230 Bridgeport, . - 48.866 Waterbury, . . 28,646 Meriden, . . 21,652 New Britain, . . ¦ 19.007 Norwalk, . . 17.747 Danbury, 16,552 Norwich 16,156 Stamford, . • 1S.700 n8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HARTFORD : THE CHARTER OAK. Adriaen Blok, a gallant Hollander, who in 1614 sailed along the coast in the Onrust {Restless), and ascended the Connecticut River above the site of Hartford. The Dutch skippers named the Connecticut the Varsche (or Fresh) River. They took posses sion of the country, by right of discovery ; and in 1623 erected a trading-post, called the House of Hope, at Hartford. The pioneer English settlers were men of the Plymouth colony, who, in 1633, sailed up the Connecticut and established and garri soned a trading-post at Windsor. Soon afterwards, sundry dis affected pastors and people of the Massachusetts towns of Dor chester, Cambridge and Watertown marched overland to Connecticut. Watertown occupied the site of Wethersfield, early in 1635 ; Dorchester settled near the Plymouth fort, at Wind sor ; and Cambridge colonized Hartford. Meantime, the Earl of Warwick had granted this domain to Viscount Say and Sele, and others; and John Winthrop, Jr., erected * fort at the mouth of the Connecticut, where he beat off a Dutch naval expedition. Another colony, composed largely of Yorkshire Puritans, and led by the Rev. John Davenport and Theoph- ilus Eaton, both of London, reached Boston in 1637. Finding Massachusetts unpromising as a place for settlement, in the following year they founded New Haven. Soon afterwards, a Kentish colony settled at Menunkatuck (Guilford) ; and men of Hertfordshire occupied Wapoweage (Milford). These, with Stamford, Bran- ford, and Southold (Long Island), made up the Com monwealth of New Haven. The new colony repre sented extreme ecclesiastical forms and influences ; but after a long fight for existence, it united with the Con necticut (or Hartford) colony in 1662. Stonington, Enfield, Suffield and Woodstock were for many years Massachusetts towns. The boundary agreed upon in 1 664 ran north-northwest from Mamaroneck, and crossed the Hudson at West Point, leaving Newburgh, Pough- keepsie and Kingston in Connecticut. The greater part of Long Island, the natural sea-wall of Connecticut, was ceded to the English by Captain-General Peter Stuy- vesant, in 1650. In 1674 the King of England annexed it to the Province of New York, then pertaining to the Duke of York, to whom he gave also all of Connecticut as far as the river. The latter assignment was successfully resisted by the Connecticut government ; but Long Island passed away forever from its rightful owners. The Connecticut charter, adopted in 1639, was the earliest complete code of civil order written in America, and embodied for the first time the free representative plan which is still paramount in the States and the Republic. By its provisions, the people stood indepen dent, and the supreme power was the Commonwealth. The colony received from King Charles II., in 1662, a liberal charter, giving it practical self-government. James II. labored stren uously to vacate all the New-England charters; and in 1687 Sir Edmund Andros came to Hartford, with sixty soldiers, the Assembly being in session, and demanded the charter of Connecticut. The precious document was laid on the table, in the pres ence of the Assembly and Andros, when suddenly the lights were extinguished, and Capt. Wadsworth, seizing the charter, cautiously withdrew and secreted it in a hollow tree, so that the King and his men never got hold of this palladium of liberty. The tree was there after known and honored as the Charter Oak, and re- ruddinq : putnam park. mained standing until 1856, when it was blown down. NEW HAVEN : JUDGES' CAVE. WEST HARTFORD : NOAH WEBSTER'S BIRTHPLACE. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. A marble tablet commemorates its site. After the de thronement of James II., the colonial government contin ued in its quasi-independent way ; and the charter given by Charles II. remained unaltered until 1818. This gen erous document confirmed to Connecticut "the soil from Narragansett Bay on the east to the South Sea on the west," being a belt seventy miles wide across the conti nent, including parts of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and California. Most of this domain was given up, as interfering with other colonial grants ; and the proceeds of the remainder formed the basis of the present school-iund of the State. The venerable charter of Charles II. is sacredly preserved in the Capitol, in a frame made from the wood of the Charter Oak. The so-called Blue Laws were a libellous production by a hostile writer (the Rev. Samuel Peters), and had no adequate foundation in fact. The early jurisprudence of the colony, though touched by the spirit of the time, was to the full as lenient and humane as that of any other New-England commonwealth, and much kindlier than that of England. The delegates of Connecticut stood among the first to propose in Congress a declaration of independence from England. When the Revolution broke out, Jonathan Trumbull, a warm patriot and level-headed man, held the governorship ; and his advice was so valued by General Washington, who often suggested con sultation with ' ' Brother Jonathan, " that this familiar nickname came to be representative of American manhood, and ultimately of the Nation itself. Con necticut troops joined in the capture of Fort Ticon- deroga, and fired deadly volleys from the rail-fence on Bunker Hill ; and 4,000 marched to the relief of Boston, in April, 1775. Of Washington's army of 17,000 men around New York, 9,000 were from Connecticut. In 1777 Gov. Tryon and 2,000 British infantry captured Danbury, but suffered severely in the retreat. Two years later, Tryon and 3,000 British soldiers plundered New Haven, and destroyed Fairfield and Norwalk, losing 300 men. In 1781 Benedict Arnold, the traitor, stormed Fort Griswold, and burned New London. Connecticut sent 31,939 soldiers into the Continental army. Washington, in general orders, praised "the soldier-like and veteran appearance, cleanliness and steadiness of the Connecticut troops." After Connecticut had become fairly peopled, largely by migration east and west from the valley, new swarms went out from the colony, and settled the Hadley and Amherst re gion in Massachusetts, and great areas of New York and Vermont. The Genesee country of New York, and the Western Reserve of Ohio (anciently called New Connecticut), were largely peopled from this State. At the outbreak of the Secession War the militia system of Connecticut was not efficient. But during the conflict the State sent into the army 55, 864 volunteers, out of 80, 000 voters, organized into twenty-eight reg iments of infantry, two regiments and three batteries of artillery, and one regiment and one squadron of cavalry. Of these, 1 , 902 men were killed in battle, and 4, 719 men died of disease, or were missing. Among the interesting memorials of ancient days, besides the churches and mansions in the gray old towns along the Sound and the Connecticut Valley, are several notable public monuments. Nathan Hale, the patriot spy of the Revolution, is honored by a sharon ; soldiers' monument. MILFORD : STONE BRIDGE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BROOKLYN : PUTNAM STATUE. lofty granite pyramid in South Coventry, bearing his dying words : "I only regret that I have but one life to lose for my country." There is also a statue of Hale in the State-House. A granite obelisk on the heights of Groton commemorates the brave garrison of Fort Griswold, massacred by British troops, after a hard battle, in 1 78 1. In Redding, near the ruined barracks of Putnam's division of the Continental Army, in 1778-79, the State has erected a lofty obelisk, and has reserved the camp-ground as a State park. This is the only remaining cantonment of the armies of the Revolution, and near it stands the venerable Christ Church. The remains of the brave Gen. Israel Putnam lie at Brooklyn, Connecticut, under a monument erected in 1888 by the State, and crowned by an eques trian statue of the hero. A bronze statue of Capt. John Mason was erected in 1889 on Pequot Hill, near Mystic, where that brave officer broke the power of the Pequot tribe. From this point the view reaches three States, 15 towns, 20 islands, and seven lighthouses. In 1889 Milford erected a memorial stone bridge over her river, guarded at one end by a round tower roofed with Spanish tiles, and bearing below its parapets the names of the founders of the town. There are scores of monuments in commemoration of the soldiers of the Secession War, from the magnificent Arch at Hartford and the lofty shaft on East Rock, New Haven, crowned with a colossal Angel of Peace, and surrounded by bronze statues and reliefs, to the simpler monuments on many a quiet village-green. The Soldiers' Memorial Arch, at Hartford, was de signed by George Keller, and erected in 1886, at a cost of $60,000. It stands on the bridge in Bush- nell Park, and is flanked by massive round towers more than 100 feet high, with conical roofs. Above the archway a sculptured frieze of terra-cotta statuary, seven feet high, runs around the entire monument, representing "The Story of the War," and "The Return of the Army." HARTFORD : BRIDGE AND MEMORIAL ARCH IN PARK. The soldiers' monument at Winchester is a tall square tower, crowned statue of Victory ; and Winsted commemorates its heroes by a feudal watch- granite, 63 feet high, with a colossal bronze soldier on the top, holding commemorative of the patriotic heroism of the volunteers. The Name of the State is an Algonquin compound word, Quinneh- tukqut, meaning "The Land on a Long Tidal River." The Land of Steady Habits is a pet name given to Connecticut, by reason, perhaps, of the settled customs and sobriety of its people. It is also called The Freestone State, in allusion to a leading product ; and The Nutmeg State, because of the old fable that its travelling traders used to sell nutmegs made of wood to their patrons of the Middle States. The State Seal was given by George Fenwick, Governor of ^8 Saybrook, about the year 1644. It bears three vines (Hartford, Windsor and Wethersfield), on a white field, symbolizing the colonies brought over and planted in the wilderness ; and the motto, Qui tratistulit sustinet, expresses faith that He who brought over the vines continues to take care of them. The State Governors were: Jonathan Trumbull, 1769- 84 ; Matthew Griswold, 1 784-6 ; Samuel Huntington, 1 786-96 ; Oliver Wolcott, 1796-7; Jonathan Trumbull, 1 797-1 809 ; John Treadwell, 1809-11; Roger Griswold, 1811-12; John Cotton by a bronze tower, of a flag, as NEW_HAVEN t SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT, ON EAST ROCK. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 121 CONNECTICUT RIVER, NEAR HADDAM. Smith, 1812-17; Oliver Wolcott, 1817-27; Gid eon Tomlinson, 1827-31 ; John S. Peters, 1831-3; Henry Waggaman Edwards, 1833-4, 1835-8 ; Sam uel Augustus Foot, 1834-5; William Walcott Ells worth, 1838-42; Chauncey F. Cleveland, 1842-4; Roger Sherman Baldwin, 1844-6; Isaac Toucey, 1846-7; Clark Bissell, 1847-9; Joseph Trumbull, 1849-50; Thomas Hart Seymour, 1850-3; C. H. Pond (acting), 1853-4; Henry Dutton, 1854-5; William Thomas Minor, 1855-7; Alex. H. Holley, 1857-8; William Alfred Buckingham, 1858-66; Joseph Roswell Hawley, 1866-7; James E. English, 1867-9, anci 1870-1 ; Marshall Jewell, 1869-70, and 1871-3; Charles R. Ingersoll, 1873-7; Richard D. Hubbard, 1877-9 ; Charles B. Andrews, 1879-81; Hobart B. Bigelow, 1881-3; Thomas M. Waller, 1883-5; Henry B. Harrison, 1885-7; Phineas T. Lounsbury, 1887-9; an(l Morgan G. Bulkeley, 1889-91. The Topography of the State deals mainly with the valleys of streams emptying into Long-Island Sound. The northern border is 88 miles long ; the southern border, 100 miles ; the eastern boundary, 45 miles ; and the western, 72 miles. The beautiful Connecticut River divides it into two nearly equal parts, the old Pequot country, on the east, with its low hills' and broken vales, and thin population ; and the western counties, including three fourths of the inhabitants, and with many prosperous manufacturing places. The chief valley of the east is that of the Thames, a navigable estuary fifteen miles long, entering the Sound at New London. The Connecticut is the largest river of New England, being over 400 miles long. Vessels drawing ten feet reach Middletown, and those drawing eight feet go up as far as Hartford. The chief river of the west is the Housatonic, 150 miles long, rising in the Berkshire Hills, and flowing through a picturesque highland region. The Farmington River enters the Connecticut above Hartford, traversing a rich and lovely valley, in a course of singular sinuosity. There is a fine line of hills following the Housatonic River, reaching its chief altitude at Bear Mountain, in Salisbury, 2,354 feet high, and the loftiest peak in Connecticut. Other summits in this beautiful region are Bald Peak (1,966 feet), Mt. Bradford (1,960 feet), Mo hawk Mountain (1,680), and Ivy Mountain (1,642). Farther east is a continuation of the Green Mountains of Vermont, ending with East Rock and West Rock, abrupt and pic turesque eminences about 400 feet high, near New Haven, the one crowned by a lofty sol diers' monument, and the other made sacred by the Judges' Cave, where two of the Regicides found shelter in early colonial days. The Mount-Tom range, of Massachusetts, sinks away in the Blue Hills of Southington. The chief range east of the Connecticut River runs from Lyme northward to Bald Mountain, in Stafford, and thence into Massachusetts, a line of granitic summits, marking the water-shed between the Connecticut and Thames Valleys. Beautiful views may be obtained from Bartlett's Tower, on the lofty hills northwest of Hart ford ; and others of more reach from the mountains of Norfolk and Salisbury. The Geology of Connecticut is chiefly con cerned with the ancient Eozoic period, varied by the Post Tertiary terraces of the great valley, and the Triassic sandstone of the New-Haven region. Through the red sandstones of the central counties columnar ridges of trap-rock have broken their way, and show sharp westward sides and gentle slopes to the east. The hematite iron of Kent, Cornwall and Salisbury is of high grade, and many of the weapons used in the Revolution were made therefrom. The copper-mines at East NAUGATUCK RIVER. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. WINSTED I LONG POND. Granby shut down in 1 760, when two car goes of ore were lost, a cargo of ore was wrecked in the Channel, one having been by the French. From 1775 to 1827 the subterranean shafts of this mine served as the State Prison. The Granby coppers, minted in 1737, and the first United-States cents, were coined from metal found here. The red sandstone of Portland, on the Con necticut River, has been used in immense quantities for building. The quarries employ 800 men. At Canaan and Milford, Roxbury and Washington, marble and limestone are quarried. Bolton and Haddam are famous for mica-slate flagging, used for 80 years for paving, largely in New York and Washington. Elsewhere there are quarries for granite, roofing slate, hydraulic lime and porcelain clay. The Climate is severe, but healthful, the mean temperature being 480 Fahrenheit. There are practically two seasons, a pleasant summer, lasting from April to November, and a bright, clear and cold winter, with dry and keen northwest winds, keeping the sky serene. The death-rate is between 17 and 18 in a thousand, being lower than that of Europe or Massachusetts. Agriculture was the leading business up to 1810, when the mechanical development began. There are 30,000 farms, with an average size of 106 acres in 1850 ; 99 in i860; 93 in 1870, and 80 in 1880. Tobacco has been one of the favorite crops ever since the days of the aborigines, who cultivated large tracts of it. The old-time "shoe-string" tobacco, with its long and narrow leaves, has been superseded by a broader leaf, raised from imported seed. It is very mild, and finds its chief use as wrappers and binders for cigars made from the strong- flavored Havana tobacco. The product rose from 472,000 pounds in 1840 to 14,000,000 pounds in 1880, with a value of $2,000,000. The culture of tobacco is mostly confined to the valleys of the Connecticut and Housa tonic Rivers. The dairy is the leading branch of agriculture elsewhere. Mixed husbandry everywhere prevails, as the soil and climate are well adapted to a great variety of fruits and vegetables, which find a ready home market. Connecticut abounds in attractive scenery, and holds within its borders many well-known summer-resorts. Among these favorite scenes are the vales of ancient Litchfield ; the land scape charms of Winsted and its Mad River ; the western ridges of Newtown and New Mil- ford ; Killingly's lovely valley, between the heights of Mashentuck and Breakneck ; the rich Piedmontese scenery of the Salisbury region, abounding in lakes and mountains ; the fertile and enriching intervales of the Connecticut River, overarched by majestic trees ; the fair rural scenes about Woodstock and Pomfret ; and the picturesque wooing of land and water along Long-Island Sound. The southern shore is rich in beauty of scenery, and contains scores of summer-resorts, from Indian Harbor and Greenwich, on the west, by Fairfield and Savin Rock, the Thimble Islands and Saybrook, to New London and Stonington. There are many harbors along this embayed coast, more than enough for the scanty maritime commerce. Among these are Fairfield, Bridgeport, New Haven, Say- brook, Stonington and New London. The last- named is one of the best harbors on the Atlantic coast, deep and capacious, and free from ice. The Government officers of the State are elected for two years. They include the gover nor, lieutenant-governor, secretary of the State, treasurer and comptroller. The Senate has 24 members, and the House of Representatives fe - ag- ¦^ -;- - ll ; -__-_ . ^Z-- -"----.- J* s^tts g^ ^j^rK- '- ^ J|IPf|fllll NEW LONDON : THAMES BRIDGE. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 123 feV-hs-. ifjfli 1 'I^SSL sL jil?^ a &^mmj P^sllF'^ -^ _nr~~ — ^ i-_~- ~= — ¦ ' ~— ^-=- — -B^ -_-:===-.-¦ £ IE? 35si= 5^— u HARTFORD: N.-Y. & N. -E. RAILROAD BRIDGE has about 250 members. The United-States Circuit Court holds yearly terms at New Haven and Hartford ; and the United-States District Courts hold two sessions in each of those' cities yearly. The State tribunals include the Su preme Court of Errors, with a chief justice and four associates ; the Superior Court, six judges and the five mentioned above ; five courts of common pleas, and numerous inferior courts and probate courts. The general statutes were revised in 1888, and form an admirable code of laws for the public welfare. The State Capitol, at Hartford, built of East-Canaan-white marble, at a cost of $2,500,- 000, crowns a beautiful hill in Bushnell Park, bought by the city from Trinity College, and given to the State. It is in secular Gothic architecture, designed by Upjohn, and has a length of 300 feet, broken by columns, arches, galleries, arcades, and commemorative sculp tures and statuary. The noble twelve-sided dome rises to a height of 275 feet, and is crowned by a bronze statue of "The Genius of Connecticut." The Capital is fire-proof. It contains the senate chamber, representatives' hall, Supreme-Court room, and State Library, and the great battle-flag corridor. In Bushnell Park are statues of Gen. Israel Putnam (by J. Q. A. Ward), Ex-Gov. R. D. Hubbard, and Dr. Horace Wells, a discoverer of anesthesia. Here also stands the Memorial Arch. Within the Capitol are statues of Nathan Hale and William A. Buckingham, the War-Governor of Connecticut. The Militia is under the governor, as commander-in-chief, with seven general staff- officers and aides-de-camp. The State troops, officially entitled the Connecticut National Guard, form a brigade of four regiments of infantry (34 companies), a battery of light artillery, a battalion of colored infantry (three companies), and a small signal corps. The Governor's Guards include the first (Hartford, chartered in I77i)and second (New Haven, 1775) com panies of Fort Guards, and the first (Hartford, 1 788) and second (New Haven, 1 S08) com panies of Horse Guards. The State Arsenal, at Hartford, was built in 181 2, and contains many military relics and curiosities. There is a State armory at New London. The militia goes into camp every year, at Niantic, near Long- Island Sound. Fitch's Soldiers' Home, at Noroton Heights, near the Sound, contains 200 disabled Connecticut veterans of the Seces sion War. It belongs to the State. Charities and Corrections. — The American Asylum for the Education and Instruc tion of the Deaf and Dumb was incorporated in 181 6, largely through the efforts of Dr. Thomas H. Gallaudet, and opened in 1817, at Hartford. It received 23,000 acres of land from Congress, besides large State aid, and now owns property valued at $400,000. Here 2, 500 children have been instructed, 90 per cent, of them being New-Englanders. Prof. Alexander Graham Bell's system of visible speech is taught ; and industrial training is an essential feature. Most of the flourishing schools for deaf-mutes throughout America have been assisted and officered thence. The State General Hospital for the Insane occupies imposing stone buildings on a hill near Middletown, over looking the Connecticut. It accommodates 1,400 patients. The Retreat for the Insane was founded, at Hartford, in 1824, and has above 150 inmates, mainly those who can afford good accommodations. The State Prison, at Wethersfield, near Hartford, dates from 1827, and holds 250 convicts. The buildings are of red sandstone. The Storrs Ag ricultural School is a State institution (established HARTFORD : DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM. 124 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. upon a farm given by the Storrs family), in the town of Mansfield. The Indus trial School for Girls, founded in 1870 by private charity, is mainly supported by the State, and has a group of handsome Fifty or more vagrant girls, of from eight to The MIDDLETOWN : INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. and commodious buildings, at Middletown. 16 years, are here taught housekeeping and sewing, and farm and garden work. State Reform School, founded at Meriden,.in 1854, has a domain of 195 acres, where bad boys of from ten to 16 years are sent by the courts, and required to work for six and a half hours, and to study for four and a half hours each day ; 400 boys are kept here. The divine cause of charity is well represented in the orphan asylums at Hartford and New Haven ; the hospitals at Hartford, New Haven, Waterbury, Danbury and Bridgeport ; and the State School for Imbeciles, at Lakeville. The National Works in Connecticut include the massive granite fortress of Fort Trumbull, near New London, and the dismantled Forts Hale and Wooster, below New Haven. There are more than a score of lighthouses along the Sound, and several lights on the river. In 1867 the Government secured land for a navy-yard on the Thames, where there is a deep and capacious harbor. This station would command the eastern entrance of Long-Island Sound, " the Mediterranean of the Western Hemisphere." In the long years of peace, since the site was set apart for naval uses, but little has been done for its equip ment, which awaits the coming of the day of need. Education is supervised by a State Board. The schools have been maintained, partly by taxes ; partly by rate-bills, discontinued in 1868 ; and partly by the income of funds. Local school-funds were raised a century and a half ago by the land sales and excise on tea, liquors and other luxuries. The State school-fund came from the sale of Western lands, be longing to Connecticut by her Stuart charter, and disposed of for $1,200,000, which has since grown to above $2,000,000, invested in seven-per-cent. land-mortgages. There are 1,400 school-districts, and 400 male and 2,700 female teachers. The yearly expenditure for the public-schools is $1,800,000. The Connecticut Normal Training School, founded at New Britain, in 1850, has 330 students, and about 60 graduates yearly. Many of the local schools have fine buildings, like that of the Hartford Public High School, a fire-proof structure 236 feet long, with handsome Gothic towers, one of which contains a powerful telescope, equipped by Warner & Swasey. Connecticut furnishes more college students, in proportion to her pop ulation, than any other State. Yale University was founded in 1701, by the ten chief Congregational ministers, as the Collegiate School of Connecticut ; and remained at Killingworth and Saybrook until 1716, when it was moved to New Haven. In 1 718 it received the name of its benefactor, Elihu Yale, who was at one time Governor of the East-India Company's settlement at Madras. In 1887, the name of Yale University was authorized by law. There are four depart ments : Philosophy and the Arts (including the Academic Department, the School of Fine Arts, and the Sheffield Scientific School), Theology, Medicine (1813), and Law. The University Library contains 150,000 volumes and a vast number of pamphlets ; and there are over 50,000 volumes in the professional and Linonian libraries. The Peabody Mu seum of Natural History, endowed by George HARTFORD '. THE WADSWORTH ATHEN/EUM. MERIDEN ; THE STATE REFORM SCHOOL THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. »jm> l_ 47.5J (LB ^Biagh i -^S " - •—Xf7„ni*.,aflmflirf auwww^""* 1 ~'d$j$$cT. ' f$3%3d&h\& i*.. n /fcL iilS&lSB &Ww^*&£& llliStfP ^^^^^mw!^> nnp*^='=s^s= - -.J*™ii^_ 'g^jj^B^^^aj^l^' "•"¦^ —-"--, *«. ¦. NEW HAVEN : YALE UNIVERSITY. Peabody, in 1866, with $150,000,' contains rich and extensive collec tions, in various interesting lines of research. There are 80 graduate stu dents, 830 in the academic depart ment, 380 in the scientific school, 50 students in art, 140 in theology, 50 in medicine, and no in law; 1,500 in all, with 63 professors and -^••'£XififV>iaEft*rr: 70 other instructors. The Chittenden Memorial Library, erected in 1888-89, *s an imposing Romanesque building of Longmeadow sandstone. Osborn Hall, a recitation-room building, also of 1888-89, 's a Byzantine-Romanesque struc ture of Stony-Creek granite, and is a most noticeable structure. This richly decorated build ing contrasts strangely with the Puritan sim plicity of the contiguous older halls. The Art School owns 122 ancient Italian paintings (the Jarves Collection), 54 pictures of the Trum bull Gallery, 100 modern paintings, and 150 casts and marble sculptures. The University grounds are adorned by statues of Abraham Pierson, the first Rector, or President (1701-7), and Prof. Benjamin Silliman, the eminent phy sicist. Yale has exhibited a notable growth for many years, and is one of the four great S'J;'. *g™^ HEW HAVEN : CHITTENDEN MEMORIAL LIBRARY. 126 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW LONDON : WILLIAMS MEMORIAL INSTITUTE. universities of America. She has given to politics Cal houn and Evarts, Tilden and Mason ; to literature, Sted- man and Willis, Percival and Pierpont, Fenimore Cooper, Donald G. Mitchell and Theodore Winthrop ; to theol ogy, Woolsey and Bushnell, Dwight and Hopkins, and Jonathan Edwards; to science, Morse and Whitney, Dana and Silliman; and to lexicography, Webster and Worcester. Trinity College was founded largely by Episcopalians and incorporated in 1823 as Washington College. Bishop T. C. Brownell became the first president; and in 1825 two brownstone buildings were erected. In 1845 the name was changed to Trinity. After a half-century, the campus be came the site of the new State Capitol ; and the present beautiful buildings, a part of an elaborate plan, in early French secular Gothic architecture, arose on a far-viewing hill' in the southwestern part of Hartford, on the edge of a campus of 80 acres. To these have been lately added an Alumni hall and gymnasium, and a science hall, for laboratories. There are ten professors and ten lecturers, and 140 students. They represent 18 States. A noble statue of Bishop Brownell adorns the college lawn. The library contains 32,000 vol umes ; and there is a valuable museum. Wesleyan University, founded in 1 83 1, is under the control of the Methodist Church. Among its presidents were Wilbur Fisk (1830-39); Stephen Olin (1842-51); Nathan Bangs, and A. W. Smith. It is in Middletown, upon the avenue which Charles Dickens declared to be the finest rural street that he had ever seen. There are several good buildings and chapter houses. Since 1872, women have been admitted. The University has 20 professors and instructors, and 230 students. The value of the plant and endowments of Wesleyan is about $1,600,000. The library contains 40,000 volumes. The Hartford Theological Seminary was founded middletown : wesleyan university. in 1833 by the Pastoral Union, as a protest against what was conceived to be the objection able philosophical tendency of the Yale Divinity School. In 1834 buildings were erected at East Windsor; and in 1865 the institution moved to Hartford, where it occupied the noble Hosmer Hall in 1879. There are 12 instructors and 60 students. The library con tains 46,000 volumes. A marked extension of the scope and methods of the institution has lately been going forward. The Berkeley Divinity School (Episcopal), at Middletown, was founded in 1850. It has more than 300 graduates. There are six instructors and 30 students. The Williams Memorial Institute is a handsome Romanesque building of pink granite, erected in 1889 on a hill over New London, for the free education of girls. The richly- endowed Norwich Free Academy has 250 students, in efficient classical and general courses, with a normal training-school for girls. The Slater Memorial Building belongs to the Free Academy, and- is a handsome structure of brick and brown stone, with effective towers and porticos. The in terior is faced with pressed brick and terra cotta, and wainscoted with polished gray marble, and in cludes a hall seating 1,100 persons, and the Peck Library. The great upper hall contains a mu seum of 227 casts from the most famous sculp tures ; an original Rembrandt ; many valuable hartford : trinity college. modern French paintings, by Corot, Millet and THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 127 NEW LONDON : THE PUBLIC LIBRARY. others; a great number of electrotypes of rare Greek coins ; and many hundreds of Braun and Brogi photographs. This admirable teaching col lection is free to the people, thousands of whom visit it every month. The building was erected and equipped by William A. Slater, as a memorial of his father, John F. Slater, the noble philanthro pist who gave $1,000,000 for the education of Southern negroes. This great fund is adminis tered by trustees, and its income reaches and strengthens nearly 50 collegiate and professional schools in the States of the South. There are many good private schools, like Bacon Academy, at Colchester, founded in 1780 ; the Connecticut Literary Institution, in the lovely old rural hamlet of Suffield; the Episcopal Academy of Connecticut, in the valley town of Cheshire ; the famous old Gun nery, at Washington ; the McLean Seminary, at Simsbury ; and the first-class academies at Hartford, New Haven, Bridgeport, Stamford, and other places. The chief public libraries are those of Bridgeport, 17,000 volumes; Norwich, 16,000; Waterbury, 38,000 ; and the great college and reference libraries at New Haven, Hartford and Middletown. The Wadsworth Athenseum, at Hartford, is a castellated building of Glastenbury gneiss, containing rich collections of statuary and paintings ; the interesting museum and library of 22,000 volumes, belonging to the Connecticut Historical Society; the Hartford Library, of 35,000 volumes; and the richly endowed Watkinson Library of Reference of 44,000 standard books. A fund of $400,000 has just been subscribed, to create out of the different institutions in the Athenseum Building, a great free public library, art-school, art-gallery, and school of history. The late J. S. Morgan of London, long time a resident of Hartford, gave $100,- 000 towards this object. The State Library contains 12,000 volumes. The Public Library of New London, built in 1889, is a handsome Romanesque edifice of pink granite, with a red tile roof, and arcades covered by groined arches of stone. Books have for many years been an important product. The first press in the colony began its work at New London, in 1709, and another was set up by Thomas Green, at Hartford, in 1 764. The first locally printed book was The Say brook Platform. The sub scription-book business, the great feature of Connecticut publishing, was founded by Silas Andrus, at Hartford, more than 60 years ago. Peter Parley's works, Mrs. Stowe's first book, the Cottage Bible, Olney's school-books, Mark Twain's earlier works, Headley's Great Rebellion, and Richardson's Beyond the Mississippi, were published in Connecticut. The most widely-known journal in Connecticut is the Hartford Courant, the oldest news paper in America, having been founded in 1764. Its early files contain discussions of the Stamp Act, the siege of Boston, the hunting of Burgoyne, the ad ministration of Washington, and similar matters. It is a Republican paper, its present managers having been among the organizers of that party in the State. Its editorial and literary departments are of recog nized ability, and it has many special features of in terest, including the best correspondence from New York, Boston, and foreign capitals ; and its news de partments are maintained with a high degree of effi ciency. The owners of the Courant are Senator and hartford : the high school. NORWICH FREE ACADEMY : THE SLATER MEMORIAL BUILDING. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HARTFORD : HARTFORD COURANT. General Joseph R. Hawley, Charles Dudley Warner, William H. Goodrich and Charles H. Clark. It has a national reputation, and a wide circulation among intelligent readers. In many old Connecticut families, including those that have moved to other States, it has been taken continuously for the century and a quar ter which it has been published ; and during its long career it has absorbed more than 100 other journals. The Courant has a handsome six-story building, facing the post-office, on the his toric ' ' square. " George D. Prentice, afterward of the Louisville Courier- Journal, was at one time engaged in journalism in Hart ford as editor of the Review; and he "discovered" John G. Whittier, and there introduced him to the public. Mr. Whit- tier was Prentice's successor, and lived in Hartford several years. Two of the leading religious papers in America (now published elsewhere) were founded in Hartford — The Congregationalist (in 1839) and The Churchman (in 1865). Connecticut has 34 daily newspapers, 113 weeklies, 21 monthlies, and four quarterlies. Five are in German, and one in Swedish ; six are devoted to religion, one to farming, and three to labor. Science, socialism, prohibition, art land music have their special organs. Maritime Commerce is of but little consequence here, most of it passing to New York. Two hundred and fifty vessels enter and clear yeariyin foreign trade, and 4, 000 in the coast wise trade and fisheries. The fishing fleet numbers nearly 300 vessels, with 1,200 sailors, and an annual product of $800,000. It sails from New London and Stonington ; and more than a quarter of the tonnage is in the whaling business. The imports and exports of New Haven are tenfold greater than all the others combined, passing $4,000,000 a year. A profit able Connecticut industry is the propagation of oysters, in artificial beds along the Sound, east and west of New Haven. The Railroads of Connecticut are 22 in number, with $67,000,000 of stock (of which $19,000,000 is held by 5,500 stockholders in this State); debts amounting to $41,000,000, and permanent investments of $112,000,000. Their net income is $3,000,000 a year. Nearly 700 miles are included in the Consolidated, or New- York, New-Haven & Hartford system. The railways from New York to Boston and the east cross Connecticut and carry a prodigious travel, which is protected by careful State inspection. The railway stations at Hartford, New Haven, New London, and other cities, are costly and attractive modern structures. The entire coast of Long-Island Sound is followed by a line of railway, passing through Stonington and New London, New Haven and Bridgeport. The Shore-Line trains, from Boston and Providence to New York, traverse this route. A line of magnificent and luxurious steamboats connects Stonington and New York daily, traversing Long-Island Sound, and connecting directly with the railway-trains to and from Boston. The New-York & New-England Railroad, from Boston to Newburgh, runs across interior Connecticut for 132 miles, with branches to Worcester and Springfield, and to New London, connecting daily with steamboats for New York. Trains by this route from Boston or Providence to New York run down to Willimantic, where some of them pass through Middletown, and others through Hartford, in either case reaching New Haven, and thence following the shore. The running time from Boston to New York is six hours ; and these commodious and swift-running trains, with their parlor and dining-cars, form a favorite mode of travel for business men, between the great cities. The line traverses a picturesque region, and gives passing views of many interesting places. The great bridge which carries this line across the Connecticut River WATERBURY : CITY HALL AND BRONSON LIBRARY. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 129 HARTFORD \ SOLDIERS' MEMORIAL ARCH. at Hartford was erected by the Boston Bridge Works, and is a triumph of engineering. The Central New-England & Western Railroad (closely allied with the New-York & New-England) runs westward from Hartford to the Hudson River, crossing on the great Poughkeepsie Bridge. The north and south lines include the Housatonic, from Bridgeport, on the Sound, to the Berkshire Hills ; the Naugatuck ; the New-Haven & Northampton ; the New- York, New-Haven & Hartford, reaching northward to Springfield, and forming part of the great Springfield line from Boston to New York ; the route following the Connecticut River from Hart ford to the Sound ; the New-London & Northern, reaching up into Vermont; and the Norwich & Worcester. The Thames-River Railway bridge, built at New London, in 1888-9, 's a great and ingenious steel structure, with a draw-bridge 503 feet long, and containing 1,200 tons of steel. The iron truss-bridge at Warehouse Point, crossing the Con necticut River, rests on 17 granite piers. It was built at Manchester, England, in 1866. Connecticut has 13,000 miles of wagon-roads, costing $650,000 a year, and fairly kept up. Steamboat lines connect Stonington, New London, New Haven and Bridgeport with New York : and others cross Long-Island Sound, from New London and Hartford to Sag- Harbor ; from Bridgeport to Port Jefferson ; and from New London to Block Island. The Finances of Connecticut are wisely and cautiously administered, owing partly to the even balance of the political parties. The net State debt amounts to $1,240,000 ; and the cities and towns owe about $17,000,000, mainly due to the enormous ex penses of the Secession War, to railroad subsidies, and local improvements in water-supplies, sewerage-sys tems, and streets. The yearly expenses of the State are $1,200,000, one third of which goes to the schools and the judiciary, the remainder being used for other public purposes. Chief Cities. — New Haven, with its many manufactures and the great Yale University. lies at the head of a fine salt-water harbor, stretching over an alluvial plain, and overlooked by abrupt and picturesque hills. It is famous for the noble elms which overarch its streets, and has many fine public buildings and churches. Hartford, the capital city, lies along the navigable Connecticut River, aud has great manufacturing interests, numerous converging railways, many handsome churches and public HARTFORD : CHARTER-OAK RACE-TRACK. NORWICH HARBOR AND THE THAMES RIVER. buildings, benevolent institutions, schools and libraries. Here dwell Mrs. Stowe, Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner. The city is said to be the richest, for its population, in America ; and has a world-wide fame for its immensely wealthy insurance-companies. 13° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Bridgeport is a railway and steamboat centre, 56 miles east of New York, with a wonderful variety of manufactures, of sewing-machines, corsets, cartridges, and many other articles. It is a handsome city, adorned with pleasant parks, and a magnificent esplanade road look ing out from Seaside Park over Long-Island Sound. To the westward is tranquil old Fair field, one of the most refined and charming villages on the Sound. New London looks out from its hill-streets over the openings of the Thames to the aristocratic summer-villas and hotels along the Sound. It has many antique mansions and immemorial elms ; and in the chancel of St. -James Church is buried Samuel Seabury, the first American Episcopal Bishop HARTFORD, THE CAPITAL OF CONNECTICUT. (1784). In summer, steamboats run from New London to Fisher's Island, Watch Hill, Block Island, Shelter Island, Long Island, and other places. This was once a renowned whaling-port, and now manufactures silks and woolens. At Norwich, a beautiful little city at the head-waters of the Thames, is the grave of the great Indian chieftain, Uncas. A simple monument, marking the grave, was dedicated with ceremonies in which Andrew Jackson took part. There is also a memorial stone, marking the spot where Miantonomi was slain by Uncas. Mrs. Lydia Sigourney ; T. Sterry Hunt, the Canadian scientist; President Oilman, of the Johns- Hopkins University; President Timothy Dwight (second), of Yale, and Donald G. Mitchell were natives of Norwich. Ston ington, perched on its narrow rocky point at the east end of the Sound, remembers August, 1814, when the Ramilies, Pactolus, and other British war-ships, bombarded it for three days. At the other end of the State are Stamford and Greenwich, now practically suburbs of New York, with the beauty of architecture, lawns and flowers added to their natural seaside charms. Among the inland towns are Waterbury, on the Naugatuck, with handsome churches and great factories ; New Britain, a rich industrial hive among the hills ; Middle- town, beautifully placed on a great bend in the Connecticut; Winsted, harnessing Mad River into its iron and steel works ; and Meriden, near a picturesque range of hills, and containing the great Britannia works among its many large and varied industries. Insurance has found its best and fullest development in Hartford, whose corporations are famous all over the world for their enterprise, integ rity and permanent merit. So vast are the operations of these companies, that they carry risks exceeding $ 1 , - 000,000,000. In 1794 Sanford & Wadsworth insured William Imlay's house, in Hartford, " against Fire, and all dangers of Fire," in the name (assumed and un official) of the Hartford Fire Insurance Company. This was the first fire-insurance policy known in the United States. Daniel Wadsworth and others, in 1810, organized the actual Hartford Fire Insurance Company, with $150,000 capital (one tenth paid in), and no expenses save $300 a year to the secretary, and $30 for fire-wood. hartford : hartford fire-insurance co. HARTFORD : CONNECTICUT MUTUAL LIFE-INSURANCE COMPANY. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. In 1835 the great nre ™ New York caused a loss to the company of $60,000 (an immense sum in those days) ; but Eliphalet Terry, its president from 1835 to 1849, pledged his own prop erty to the Hartford Bank, and hastened in a sleigh to New York, where he met all the obligations of the company, and established its reputation on a high plane, which has been hon orably maintained to the present time, when it ranks among the foremost insurance companies of the age. Its loss of $1,968,000 in the great Chicago fire was bravely met, but ne cessitated the paying in of $500,000 new capital. The capital now is $1,250,000, with assets of not far from $6,000,000. The company erected the handsome granite building which is now its home, in 1870, during the presidency of George L. Chase (which has lasted since 1867). The business inaugurated by the Hartford Fire-insurance Company has developed in the city of its origin more energetically than anywhere else. Hart ford leads the United States in fire-insurance, and is most widely known from this feature of its activity. There are six local companies, with assets of above $25,000,000, and an aggregate capital of $10,000,000; and they pay $5,000,000 yearly in losses. Besides these six, there are only nine other companies in America with capitals of as much as $1,000,000 each. Among all these gigantic corporations, none enjoys a greater confidence than the pioneer company, the venerable and conservative, yet always enterprising, " Hartford Fire." One of the most beautiful buildings in Hartford — a six-story Renaissance edifice of granite, erected in 1870, at the corner of Main and Pearl Streets — belongs to the Connec ticut Mutual Life-Insurance Company, which was chartered in 1846, and became the foun dation of the vast life-insurance business which distinguishes Hartford in the nation. Starting with a guarantee fund of only $50,000, it won an immediate and brilliant success, and has gone forward with steadily increasing strength. In 44 years, up to 1890, the company received over $220,000,000, and paid out to policy-holders $140,000,000, with $25,000,000 for expenses and taxes, leaving a balance of $56,000,000 as net assets. This colossal trust- fund is invested safely and productively, and its profits wholly inure to the benefit of the insured, the surplus being returned during each year to those who have contributed towards it, so that each policy-holder gets his insurance at its actual cost. It stands among the fore most corporations in the world, not only of life-insurance, but of any kind. The predom inating aim of the solid Connecticut Mutual Life, under the competent presidency of Jacob L. Greene, is to furnish the greatest amount of absolute protection to the families of the insured, and to furnish this protection at the lowest possible cost. The Connecticut Mutual is in fact a pure and simple life-insurance company, conducted unswervingly in the best interests of its thousands of policy-holders. Another interesting department of Hartford insurance is devoted to accidents. About 20 years ago, after a series of terrible railway ac cidents, the Railway Passengers' Assurance Com pany of England came into being. James G. Bat- terson, returning from Italy to Hartford, studied into this scheme while in England, and in 1863, organized, at Hartford, The Travelers Insurance Company, of which he is still the president, its office being a carpetless upstairs room with two chairs and a legless pine desk, and the present sec retary, Rodney Dennis, being also the only clerk and office-boy, The company now occupies the HARTFORD i TRAVELERS INSURANCE COMPANY. JUU vmu. «;. r 1 T32 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HARTFORD : HARTFORD STEAM- BOILER INSURANCE COMPANY. fine old Ellsworth mansion, on the quiet and embowered Prospect Street. The life-department of the Travelers is virtually an in dividual life-insurance company, and one of the foremost. Its business is purely on the stock plan — a low cash rate, without dividends to policy-holders. The record of the Travelers stands absolutely untarnished from its foundation. The company has assets of $13,000,000, and a surplus exceeding $3,500,000. It has paid nearly $13,000,000 to victims of accidents, and $5,000,- 000 to policy-holders in the life-department. The Travelers Record is a bright little monthly paper issued by the company, bristling with facts and arguments in favor of casualty insurance. This is the largest and most successful accident and purely stock life-insurance company in the world. As in all other successful undertakings, the work of the "Travelers" has found many competitors ; but in keeping with its age and pioneership, the old Travelers of Hartford remains unapproached in its supremacy in this broad field of effort. The Hartford Steam-Boiler Inspection & Insurance Company was evoked in the old Polytechnic Club, where Tyndall's suggestions and Sir William Fairbairn's experiments as to the explosion of boilers were exhaustively discussed. The company was chartered and began operations in 1866, and during a quarter of a century has successfully labored to create a demand for its protective agencies. It insures more than 30,000 boilers, and in case of explosion or rupture, makes good all loss to property, with indemnity for loss of life or personal injury, to an amount not exceeding the sum insured. The work of the company is mainly directed to the cure of defects and the prevention of disaster, and it has a hundred skilled and trained inspectors, who at stated times thoroughly examine the boilers under its care. Incipient defects are hunted out and remedied, and thus many lives and millions of dollars' worth of property have been saved yearly. It is not only the pioneer company in its line, being many years older than any other, but it is also far the strongest and most suc cessful. Since 1867 it has been under the presidency of J. M. Allen, to whom is due the chief credit for the formulation and development of boiler inspection and boiler insurance, and its general introduction. Manufactures. — Connecticut, as it now is, is a creation of this century, based in large degree on the ingenuity of her inventors and the individual ability of her workmen. The famous Connecticut Joint-Stock Act of 1837, framed by Theodore Hinsdale, is the basis of modern manufacturing corporations, and has been copied by nearly every State, and by the English Limited Liability Act of 1855. The principle thus originated and defined in Con necticut has been of vast and incalculable importance in the industrial development of the modem world. The last report of the Connecticut Bureau of Labor Statistics enumerates 90 large estab lishments, in 20 lines of industry, employing 28,256 persons, paying wages amounting yearly to $12,500,000, and manufacturing upwards of $45,000,000 worth, of goods, with a net profit of $3,800,000. The laws limit the work of women and children to 60 hours a week, and compel chil dren under 13 years of age to attend school. The first of these statutes is obeyed, and the other suffers from evasion. Since i860 the wages of men have been advanced 43 per cent. ; and those of women 57 percent. Industrial warfare breaks out from time to time, resulting from the convic tion of the workmen that their share and oppor- hartford : hartford-county court-hcuse. tunities are being diminished. An acute English THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 133 M iti 1 --^f Ail "i observer thus pictures the ingenious local me chanics: "The work-shops of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and especially of Connecti cut, are full of such men. Usually tall, thin, reflective and taciturn, but clever, and above all things free — the equals, although mechanics, of the capitalists upon whose ready alliance they can count — they are an element of incalculable value to American industry." With respect to certain alleged local indus tries, it is well said, in Reclus's A Bird's-Eye View of the World: "The manufactures of wooden nutmegs, wooden oats, and basswood hams are located precisely where they always were — in the imaginations of lumbering wits." Among the products of local industries are the axes of Collinsville, the clocks of Bristol and Thomaston, the powder of Hazardville, the knives of Northfield, the carpets of Thomp- sonville,. the plush and silver of Seymour, the bank-note paper of Manchester, the farming implements of Winsted and Higganum, and the bells of Chatham. This land of peace has furnished armaments to contending nations, bringing the raw materials from distant points, and by the ingenuity of her mechanics fashioning them into weapons of terribly destructive power. The Gatling guns, Colt's fire arms, and the Hotch- kiss multicharge guns come from Hartford ; the Winchester rifles, from New Haven ; the BRIDGEPORT : WHARF SCENE. Parker machetes HARTFORD : ALLYN MEMORIAL. guns, fromMeriden ; millions of cartridges from Bridgeport ; and pikes and from Collinsville. The works at Hazardville made $1,250,000 worth of powder for Great Britain during the Russian War. Samuel Colt, the son of a Hartford manufacturer, while yet a lad, beguiled the tedium of a voyage to Calcutta (in 1830) by in venting and making a model of a revolver, which he patented in Europe and America in 1835, and began to manufacture in 1836. These weapons were first used in the Seminole War, and then in the Mexican War. In 1848, Colt built a factory in Hartford; and in 1855 finished the great dike around the South Meadow, and the magnificent Colt's Armory, where, during the Secession War, as many as 136,000 revolvers and 50,000* muskets were turned out in a single year. All of the famous Gatling guns have been made by Colt's Company. Colt's Patent Fire-Arms Manufacturing Company was incorporated in 1856. Its pro ducts have been carried into every quarter of the earth, and will contmue to be in demand until the coming of the golden age. The machinery and methods employed are of wonder ful ingenuity and delicacy, the parts of the weapons being interchangeable. The armory is the largest private concern of the kind in the world, and sometimes employs 1,500 men. Besides revolvers, the works now turn out great numbers of magazine rifles, hammerless shot-guns, Gatling guns, and printing-presses. In 1890 they began to make the Driggs- Schroder rapid-fire guns, one, three and six pounders, much resembling the Hotch- kiss guns, but simpler in mechanism. The last argument in a frontier dis pute, or in a trouble between the white and black races in the South, or between Apache and Arizonian, is usually a Win chester rifle, or, briefly, a Winchester. The same conclusive debaters were used in vast numbers in the last war between Turkey and Russia, shattering the still- HARTFORD ; COLT'S PATENT FIRE-ARMS CO. ^34 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW HAVEN : WINCHESTER REPEATING ARMS CO. ness of the Balkans and the Danube with Connecticut weapons, held by opposing lines of battle. Many European and Asiatic nations have armed their choice troops with these rifles, provided with ammuni tion from the same New-England source. Thousands of sportsmen, also, wander through the forests and over the prairies with these fire-arms over their shoulders. The world- renowned Winchester Repeating Arms Company, organized in 1858, and incorporated in 1866, employs 1,500 men, and several thousand complicated and ingenious machines, in its great modern works, covering many acres with brick buildings, in a lovely suburb of New Haven. The famous weapon made here was first the Jennings gun ; then the Volcanic re- peating rifle ; then the Henry rifle ; and, finally, the Winchester, from O. F. Winchester, its maker. It had become such a combination of patents, that no one name held it, and it took the name of the manufacturer. While the flint-lock has given way to the percussion-lock, and this in turn to the breech loader, the science of ammunition has more than kept pace with these changes ; and the trained officers of the foremost European governments have been sent to the works of the Union Metal lic Cartridge Company, at Bridgeport, in order to transfer its incomparable system to their own arsenals. Although these famous works make over a million cartridges daily, .they never over take the demand, but are driven to their fullest capacity all the time. It is the largest and most famous cartridge-factory in the world, and produces a vast variety of explosives, from small revolver ammunition up to Gatling cartridges, with brass and paper shot shells, caps and wads, reloading implements, and an immense number of military cartridges. The machinery is so true and accurate iii its operations that it almost seems to be possessed of reason, and dispenses with a vast amount of manual labor. The highest revolver scores on record have been made with cartridges manufactured by this company ; and all the famous marksmen of America use no ammunition except that of their make. Among the many interesting and uncommon industries of Bridgeport, none is of greater interest or wider fame than that of the Union Metallic Cartridge Co., whose products are found in all lands. The experience and study of more than a third of a century have wrought wonders in the transformation of the base metals into forms of enduring beauty and high artistic value. One of the chief factors in this change is the Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company, which was founded in a small way by the men whose name it bears, in 1854, and now employs more than a thousand operatives, including many of the most skillful artisans in America. Their immense works at Meriden are equipped through out with the most improved machinery, and pro duce rich and beautiful art-metal goods, including bronzes, card-tables, easels and mirrors ; also fen ders, andirons and fire-sets, besides gas and elec tric fixtures for dwellings or public buildings. The "B. &H." lamps, simple in construction, and . ,E _ , , : r_ l BRIDGEPORT : UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. i3S MERIDEN : MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO. safe, and yielding a powerful white and steady light, are among the best in the world. The size adapted for piano, banquet, hanging and table lamps is of 75 candle-power, while that used for stores, halls, etc., is of 400 candle-power. The extension piano-lamps, in wrought iron, polished brass or silver, with their " B. & H." burners, have won general recognition in American homes for their useful ness and beauty. Among the most artistic of the de velopments of Connecticut genius are the varied products of the Meriden Britannia Company, founded in 1852, and now includ ing ten acres of floor space in their great factories, wherein 1,200 skilled artisans are en gaged. Their silver-plated ware is honestly made, of the best materials, and with a con tinually advancing standard of artistic beauty, to keep abreast of the aesthetic spirit of the age. The spoons and forks bearing their trade-mark, 1847 -Rogers Bros., A 1, are found on millions of American tables. In the great maze of substantial brick buildings at Meri den the most interesting processes may be followed, from the entrance of the raw material until its completion in forms of unusual and permanent beauty. This is the most extensive establishment of the kind in the world ; and has prosperous salesrooms at New York, Chicago, San Francisco, London, and Paris, and a branch factory at Hamilton, Ont. Thread is a small enough matter, but it takes upwards of 30,000,000 miles of it yearly to keep their clothes on the American people. A large part of this is furnished by the Willi- mantic Linen Company, the chief American corporation making all the numbers of six-cord sewing-cotton from the raw material, and using each year the product of 3,000 acres of Sea-Island cotton-land, to make nearly 9,000,000 miles of thread. Each day this com pany makes 250,000 spools or 28,000 miles of thread, in 5,000 varieties and 300 colors and shades. It was long supposed that the moist and equable climate of Scotland was essential in spinning yarn for fine thread ; but the Willimantic Company, by steam-heating and atomized moisture, has created in the heart of variable New England an area of un varying warmth and humidity, superior for the purpose even to the climate of the Cale donian land. There are several large and orderly stone mills, besides the famous No. 4, built in 1881, which covers more ground than any other textile mill in the world. The operatives, mostly American women and girls, number i,5°°. with bright and comfortable homes, a public library, and other pleasant things. Intelligence is necessary in this industry, and all the operatives must be able to read and write. The long and fine-stapled Sea-Island cotton, | the most expensive in the world, is freed from seeds and dirt by the picker machine ; unsnarled by the carding-machine ; drawn into ribbon-like "slivers;" re-combed, roved, spun into yarn, twisted into thread, washed, bleached, dyed (if colored), spooled, labeled, and boxed. The excellence of the result is attested by a cabinet of medals awarded at different expositions, as well as by the experience of the thousands of house-mothers all over America. The silk-mills owned by Cheney Brothers, at South Manchester and in Hartford, are a series of spacious brick buildings, of plain but solid construction, and containing a large amount of delicate and ingenious machinery. The product is about $4,000,000 WILLIMANTIC : WILLIMANTIC LINEN CO. i36 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. wife SOUTH MANCHESTER : CHENEY BROS. SILK-MILLS. a year, in plain silks, plushes, pongees, printed silks, crapes, and other goods. There are over 2, ooo operatives in these mills. In South Manchester their homes are mostly owned by the company, and are of simple design, but afford a good degree of comfort. The village is not crowded around the mills. Every house has some space about it, the result being to scatter the population ; while the homes of the mill-owners stand in an unfenced park of several hundred acres, more nearly adjacent to the mills than those of the employees, and made attractive by wide lawns, trees, and shrubbery. The sanitary conditions are good, and the scenery of the surrounding country diversified and agreeable. A public hall and a free library contribute to the pleasures of life. The great mills at Rockville, owned and operated by Belding Brothers & Co., are mainly used for the making of spool silk, and employ nearly 700 persons. Although these works have been repeatedly enlarged and provided with spacious annexes, they are entirely inadequate to supply the demand, and the Beldings have established complete mills also at Northampton (Mass.), Montreal (P. Q. ), Belding (Mich.), and San Francisco (Cal.). Among the products of this chain of silk-mills, reaching across the continent, are embroidery and wash art-silks (in 360 colors), machine-twist, spool and embroidery silks, piece goods, and very fine and delicate silk hosiery and underwear, all made by the latest and most ingenious machinery. The main Belding offices are in New York. This colossal business, with its five completely -equipped factories, 3,000 operatives, and daily consumption of over a ton of raw silk, was founded in 1863 by Messrs. M. M., H. H., A. N, and D. W. Belding, who started in a small way, retailing silk from house to house, in the country towns of Connecticut and New York. The Ponemah Cotton Mills, among the largest in the world, are on the Shetucket River, near Norwich. They are a quarter of a mile long, and employ 1,800 persons, consuming 6,500 bales of cotton yearly, and making 20, 000, 000 yards of fine cotton cloth. The textiles woven here are recognized in the trade as the finest cotton or white dress goods ever produced in this country. The village of Taftville has grown up around the mills, and is largely owned by the company, which furnishes its people with pleasant homes at small expense. The mills are handsome buildings, architecturally, and have immense and costly equipments of the most modern machinery, efficient for the great and exquisitely fine pro duct which is demanded of them. The work of developing this manu facturing power began in 1867, and the mill machinery was started in 1870. The capital stock of the com pany is $2,000,000, and the mills have 130,000 spindles, whose fine products find a ready market all over the country. The first woolen mill in America was established in Hartford, in 1 788, and mad crow-colored goods, Hartford gray and Congress brown. At the inauguration ceremonies of April 30, 1789, President taftville : ponemah mills. ROCKVILLE I BELDING BROS. & CO. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 137 Bases HARTFORD I DWIGHT, SKINNER & CO. Washington, Vice-President Adams, and the Con necticut Congressional delegation, wore suits of Hart ford cloth, and Washington afterward visited the mill. The cloth sold at from $2.50 to $5 a yard ; but the country was so poor after the Revolution that the pioneer mill run for only six years. The industry revived again, with tremendous energy and prosperity, and 25,000,000 pounds of wool are now used yearly in the factories about Hartford. President Harrison and Vice- President Morton were inaugurated in 1889, in suits of Hartford cloth. The industry thus firmly established has called up the collateral enterprise of buying and selling wools on a large scale, by such well-known houses as Dwight, Skinner & Co., of Hartford, founded in 1856, and now handling immense quantities of wool yearly. Much of this is " grease wool," just as it is sheared, and is bought and sold in this condition. The concern has a large scouring plant at Windsor Locks, near Hartford, where they clean and scour 4,000,000 pounds of wool every year. This purified grade is sold to the leading manufac turers. The wools used by Dwight, Skinner & Co. come from all parts of the United States, and from Australia, Russia and Africa. New England has an interesting aspect in its commercial side, in the number of strong copartnerships and corporations which have passed into their second half century of active business. Among these is the historic house of Beach & Co., which was founded away back in August, 1833, largely by the efforts of George Beach, Jr., son of George Beach, Cashier and President of the Phcenix Bank for 50 years, and a prominent member of Christ Church. For nearly 60 years Beach & Co. have stood at the head of the dyestuff trade in this section, and all the, partners still bear the name of Beach. Besides their own product of dye-woods, indigo extracts and other goods of a similar character, they are the sole American agents for The Brit ish Alizarine Company's Alizarine, the Atlas Works Aniline dyes, and Mucklow's Elton Fold dyeing extracts. No small part of the beauty of American fabrics has come from the violet, malachite, berberine, mandarin, primrose, opal, blue, crimson, scarlet, and purple sent out from this establishment. Beach & Co. also do an extensive importing and exporting commission business, having reliable correspondents in the principal cities of the Old World, hartford : beach & co. as well as in Australia and the Spanish islands. For many years they have received the bulk of the cochineal consumed on this continent, their celebrated J. R. G. being well known by all important consumers. The Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, originally organized in 1853, at Water- town, moved to Bridgeport, its present location, in 1856. It was originated for the pur pose of manufacturing sewing-machines, under the patents granted to Allen B. Wilson for inventions which were practically perfected by the co-operation of Nathaniel Wheeler ; and it introduced to the public the first sewing- machines adapted to general use in families. The factories cover ten acres, and the plant comprises machinery and appliances for cast ing and metal-working, the manufacture of needles, and cabinet-work. There are 1,200 employees, who are of a higher grade than usual in manufactories of a similar character. This company has always employed the best 1 "Sis =z:~f^r — ¦ ISliiil BRIDGEPORT WHEELER & WILSON MANUFACTURING CO. 138 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. inventive talent and the most skillful workmen, and consequently has from the beginning stood among the foremost in the march of improvement in the art of sewing by machinery. Its products, well known throughout the civilized world, consist of sewing-machines for family use and for every grade of manufacturing in cloth and leather, together with button hole machines and a number of specialities pertaining to mechanical stitching. The high esteem in which their labor-saving machines are held is attested by the fact that whenever the mechanical products of the world have been placed on competitive exhibition, the Wheeler & Wilson sewing-machines have been crowned with the highest honors. The suc cesses at the World's Expositions at Paris, in 1867, Vienna, in 1873, Philadelphia, in 1876, and Paris, in 1878, were emphatically confirmed at the Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1889, at -which the only grand prize for sewing- machines was awarded to the Wheeler & Wilson, and the Cross of the Legion of Honor was conferred upon Nathaniel Wheeler, the president of the corporation. The Scovill Manufacturing Company, another pre-eminent Connecticut industry, is one of the chief establishments of the bright little city of Waterbury, on the Naugatuck River. It dates its origin from the primitive days of 1802, when Abel Porter & Co. began the manufacture of gilt buttons, in one end of a grist mill. The establishment was incorporated under its present name in 1830, and its works now cover a dozen acres, and make up brass and copper into almost every form desirable for convenience or ornament. Thence come buttons by the million, electric wires, student-lamps, hinges, match-safes, and myriads of other articles, which are sold in all parts of the world. The company also has works in New Haven and New York, and agencies in New York and Chicago. The power for the first factory of this company was furnished by a single horse. The manufacture of buttons began here about 1 790, when Samuel Grilley learned the art from an Englishman at Boston, and taught his brothers, Henry and Silas, at Waterbury. The buttons were of pewter, and when Silas Grilley and the Porters united, in 1802, the first brass buttons were made. Now the Scovill works are the crown of American brass and German-silver manu facturers, with a product of immense variety and value. Another remarkable development of mechanical ingenuity appears in the business of the WATERBURY : SCOVILL MANUFACTURING CO. Ansonia Brass and Copper industry was founded in Phelps, Dodge & Co. and has had a career of it now occupies five great acres, and continually hands, with of nearly year. The stands pre- its product copper, and toms, cop - electrical purposes, and in- over a hundred patents for and for various forms of own Cowles's patents for eral other remarkable spe- varieties of rods, tubes, and Has ANSONIA : ANSONIA BRASS AND COPPER CO. Company, at Ansonia. This 1847, by Anson G. Phelps of (whence the name Ansonia), uninterrupted prosperity, until factories, covering about 16 employing from 1,200 to 1,300 a pay-roll $900,000 a companyeminent in of sheet- copper bot- per wire for got copper, and controls lamps and chandeliers, metal-working. They also, insulating wire, and sev- cialties ; and produce great wire, besides lamps and THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. !39 chandeliers of every kind for kerosene oil. This com pany also manufactured clocks until 1878, when that part of their business was reorganized under the name of the Ansonia Clock Company, with factories in Brook lyn, New York, where they employ about 1,200 hands. The art of pressing, stamping or forging hot metal, in dies of various forms, or drop-forging, gives results impossible to attain by hand-forging, and produces the most complicated and the simplest forms of forged work with admirable success. The pioneers in this craft were the Billings & Spencer Co., founded in hartford: billings & spencer co. 1869 by C. E. Billings, and even to this day making a much greater number and variety of drop-forged goods than any other American house. As representative of this line, the establishment received a diploma of merit at the International Exhibition of 1876 at Phila delphia. The products include 120 varieties of steel wrenches, and forgings for shuttles, guns, vises, chisels, thumb-screws, clamps, gauges, pliers, and a great variety of machinists' tools and other articles in iron, steel, and bronze. Another interesting specialty is drop- forgings from pure copper, for electrical machinery. The works of the Billings & Spencer Co. are at Hartford, and employ 125 men. Their products have reflected honor on Ameri can ingenuity at the great expositions of Vienna, Chili, Boston, and New York, where they have received medals and diplomas. One of the interesting developments of this era of inventions is the rapid improvement of farming tools, which results in the multiplying and cheapening of the indispensable pro ducts of the soil. In the pleasant Connecticut village of Higganum, the works of the Higganum Manufacturing Corporation are kept in full activity the year through, making the most ingenious and efficient agricultural implements, which are in de mand all over the country, from Florida to Oregon. The number and varieties of rakes, harrows, and all kinds of trucks made at these works would aston ish anyone unfamiliar with the business. They have one kind of cultivator for the stone- less sands of Florida, another for the bottom-lands of Iowa, and another for the cotton- fields of Texas. The latest products of these works are Clark's cutaway harrows, seeders, and cultivators, cutting up, pulverizing and planting the stubbornest land. Governor Gordon of Georgia pronounced Clark's harrow "the best implement on the farm " ; and a Texan planter said : "That little Yankee thing chaws up the ground worse than anything I ever saw. " In former days the transmission of mechanical power was effected by costly and cum bersome systems of gearing, until the invention of leather belting afforded a better way. Pliny Jewell came down from New Hampshire to Hartford in 1845, and in 1848 began to make leather belts, being the third person in America to enter this business. P. Jewell & Sons devoted much time and energy, and persistent personal effort to educating American manufacturers to the use of belting, and their plant increased until it now represents an investment of $1,000,000, and includes the spacious Hartford fac tory, and large tanneries at Rome (Georgia), and Jellico (Tennessee), in the heart of the best oak-bark country. The green hides are rigidly inspected, and very care fully made up, by the latest improved machinery, into all sizes and shapes of belts. In 1883 the Jewell Belting Co. was organized; and the business of the corporation now reaches over a vast area. hartford : jewell belting co. higganum : higganum manufacturing co. I-. ' ' 140 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Eaton, Cole & Burnham Company, whose works are located at Bridgeport, is one of the foremost establishments in the world for the manufacture of all manner of brass and iron fit tings for use in conducting steam, water, gas, and oil. These products include an immense variety of pipes, valves, cocks, radiators, cutting and threading tools, and other appurtenances, and are sold all over the American continent, as well as in Europe, being indispensable to the comfort of the people, and to the development of many of our great national industries. This commanding business dates from the year 1870, and was formed by the consolidation of the interests of the gentlemen whose names the company bears. It employs 800 men, with a yearly pay-roll exceeding $500,000, and uses vast quantities of iron, copper, tin, spelter and lead, in the production of the goods men tioned. The patents owned by the corporation include a great number of devices for rap idly and economically manufacturing their goods, as well as articles made by them for sale. Probably, no line of industry excels the one in which this company is engaged in point of the usefulness of the goods manufactured, to the people and to the world at large. On the harbor-side at Bridgeport, with a fine deepwater channel along its front, and railways traversing its grounds, is the compact and serviceable plant, witli two acres of flooring, of the Springfield Emery Wheel Manufac turing Company, the designers and maker of the largest variety of grinding machines. This busi ness was founded at Springfield, in 1881, by the four Hyde brothers. In 1890, the new plant at Bridgeport was built, and thoroughly equipped for the manufacture of wheels from emery, and for a limitless variety of grinding machines in many dif ferent sizes and styles, for grinding and sharpen ing all sorts of implements and metal surfaces, from the delicate tools used in jewelers' shops up to heavy plowshares and car-wheels. These service- Bridgeport : Springfield emery wheel co. able and indispensable machines are supplied with wheels made entirely of emery and cor undum, which have a much greater grinding power and endurance than natural grindstones. Springfield wheels are in use by the United-States Government, the Edison and Westing- house companies, and thousands of manufacturers. The Springfield Emery Wheel Co. also makes daily 1 50 reams of sapphire garnet paper, in several grades. This is a sandpaper whose coating is pulverized garnet, large mines of which are owned by the company. The Pope Manufacturing Company stands preeminent in the world, in the manufacture and sale of bicycles. It founded the business in 1877, in Boston, by importing English machines, at a time when there was not a score of wheel men in the Union (Col. Albert A. Pope, president of the company, being one). In 1878 the company began the manufacture of bicycles at Hartford, and their works now cover acres of floorage, where hundreds of the best New-England mechanics, aided by the finest modern machinery, make a yearly increasing number of high-grade Columbia bicycles, tricycles and "safeties" for men and women. This famous corporation has a large hartford ; pope manufacturing co. THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 141 £-f- ^rJL-J-W^ ^K^^| • '¦ J^' wLSm! ^^^^^S NEW HAVEN I PRATT & WHITNEY CO. office-building at Boston, branch-stores at New York and Chicago, and 600 agencies. By its early acquisition of patents, its strict adherence to one list of prices and discounts, its protection of dealers, and the repeated triumphs of its machines on the race-track and tour ing routes, this company has built up the greatest business of the kind ever seen in the world, and supplied the American people and others with many thousands of ' ' silent steeds. " Connecticut not only manufactures almost everything needed in modern civilization, 'but she also provides the ingenious machinery for other people to manufacture with. One of the foremost institutions in this department is the Pratt & Whit ney Company, whose works at Hartford employ 825 men (with an annual pay-roll of $500,000), making standard sizes and forms in gauges and reamers, taps and dies, automatic grain-weighers, forging machinery, machinists' tools for power and hand use, and a great number of other articles, its mere catalogue occupying hundreds of pages. From this establishment comes the entire working-plant of sewing-machine and gun factories. It supplied the German imperial gun-works at Spandau, Erfurt, and Danzig with admirable and costly plants; and has sent to Europe over $3,000,000 worth of tools and machinery. The company also makes for the United-States Government the Hotchkiss rapid-fire guns ; and owns and manufactures the famous Gard ner machine gun. With the co-operation of eminent scientific persons, and the United-States Coast Survey, this corporation after delicate and exhaustive comparisons, constructed a ma chine for absolutely exact and uniform measurements, down to 1-50,000 of an inch. Up to that time American yards and feet were of an endless variety of lengths. " ~^f - ~ The stamped envelopes which bear American letters all over the world are all made in the fair Connecticut Valley, by the Plimpton Manufacturing Company, of Hartford, and the-Morgan Envelope Com pany, of Springfield, in association. The first-named, founded by Linus B. Plimp ton, in 1865, and incorporated in 1873, is now the largest producer of envelopes in the world, employing 500 operatives, and with a yearly output valued at $1,500,000. Nearly a billion envelopes are made in the Plimpton factories every year, 600, 000, 000 of them being for the Government. The marvellous mechanism and labor-saving contrivances in vented and used in these processes turn out precise and perfect work at a great saving from handicraft, and are so carefully patented by the company that no one else can use them, or make envelopes so good^and so cheaply. At Middletown is the famous establish ment of W. & B. Douglass, the oldest and most extensive manufacturers in the world of pumps and other hydraulic machines. No other house approaches its line of cistern and house force pumps, hydraulic rams, yard hydrants and hy draulic machinery. These goods have received the highest awards — gold and silver medals — Slllpf «s*3SPl HARTFORD i PLIMPTON MANUFACTURING CO. MIDDLETOWN J W. & B. DOUGLASS. I42 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. at the World's Expositions in Europe, America, and Australia. The Douglass cistern and house pumps are generally used in every country of the globe. The plant covers four acres, and the group of substantial brick buildings gives employment to 250 men. The busi ness was founded in 1832 by William and Benjamin Douglass, and has always remained in the' family, although it is nominally a stock company, with a capital of $600, 000, and a sur plus which gives to the establishment a value exceeding $1,000,000. Here are made 1,500 different styles of pumps and hydraulic rams, covering every use for houses, factories or farms. The best representative of the enterprise, ingenuity, and perseverance of Connecticut is Phineas T. Barnum, wdiose museum, menagerie, hippodromes, and other public entertain ments, have been the delight of two generations, in both the New World and the Old World. Other countries may question whether any of our generals, discoverers, poets, or historians have attained the first rank among the great men of the world, but all admit that America has produced the most illustrious showman of all time. The key-note of his career is sounded in his own cheery words : "The noblest art is that of making others happy," and for half a century he has practiced this precept, to the benefit of millions of people. Born at Bethel, Conn, (in the year 1810), the son of a farmer and tavern-keeper, he showed in childhood a great aversion to agricultural labor, and a great liking and a special aptitude for business. At the age of 15, fatherless and poor, he was thrown upon his own resources, and was successively clerk in a store, editor of a paper, village storekeeper, and exhibitor of Joice Heth, the alleged nurse of Washington. This last venture decided his vocation, and he became the head of a small travelling company of performers, and a showman. In 1840 he bought the American Museum in New York, and since that time the magnitude of his undertakings and successes has been amazing, and has made him the pride of the American people, and won for him the personal favor of the sovereigns of Great Britain and France, and countless dignitaries. His best known achievements include the discovery, naming and exhibiting of General Tom Thumb; the bringing of Jenny Lind to America; the purchase of Jumbo ; the organizing (in 1874) of "Barnum's Greatest Show on Earth;" and the transporting of the same to and from London, in the winter of 1889-90. "The Greatest Show on Earth" trav els all over the United States and Canada, in 74 freight cars, and a Pullman train, moving by night, and BRIDGEPORT : WINTER-QUARTERS OF BARNUM & BAILEY'S CIRCUS. . . r giving perform ances, in tents seating 25,000 people, at all cities of more than 40,000 inhabitants. The winter-quarters, at Bridgeport, include elephant houses, where 40 elephants are luxuriously housed and trained ; a lion and tiger house, kept at the required high temperature ; quarters for camels and caged animals ; a sea-lion and hippopotamus house, containing a great pond, artificially heated ; chariot and train houses; blacksmith, paint, and carpenter shops ; and a practice-ring for riders and acrobats. Upwards of 82,000,000 tickets have been sold for the Barnum exhibitions. This versatile Connecticut genius has won other laurels than those of a showman. Of the books he has written, more than a million copies have been sold. He has lectured before the largest and best audiences in America and Europe. He has laid out and built up the eastern half of Bridgeport. As a member of the Connecticut Legislature for several terms, and as Mayor of Bridgeport, he has made an enviable official record. Bridgeport has been Mr. Barnum's home for 45 years, and its parks, cemeteries, boulevards, and public institutions, founded by his generosity, and advanced by his wise supervision, bear witness to his practical philanthropy. R N - ' F ' Pi F1 y !r|r [ f! fe 4I; i- * ¦¦- ¦i r , r 1 El ii \* '5 1 iiii!-- HISTORY. Population, in 1860, In 1870, . In 1S80, White, . Colored, . . American born, Foreign-born, Males, . Females, In 1800 (U. S. census), 112,216 125,015 146, 608 120, 160 26,448 137.140 9,468 74,10872,500 167,87 population to the square mile, 74 8 The Delaware aborigines \ were of the Leni-Lenape 5 stock, and included the j Minquas, on the Iron Hills, and the Nanticokes, in the lowlands of the south. The former migrated nearly two centuries ago ; the latter in 1748. Hendrick Hudson discovered Delaware Bay, in 1609, while hunting for the short cut to China, but put to sea when he reached shoal water ; and a year later Capt. Ar-gall sailed up the lone ly expanse. The first white settlers were De Vries and 32 Hollanders, who founded a colony near the site of Lewes, in 1631. These pioneers all suffered massacre by the Indians. In 1638 Peter Minuit was sent out by Queen Christina to found here "a country in which every man should be free to worship God as he chose." He built Fort Christina, on the site of Wilmington, and garrisoned it with sturdy Swedes and Finns. The country received the name of Nya Sveriga (New Sweden) ; and for many years the peninsula remained under Swedish rule. In 165 1 Gov. Stuyvesant came around from New Amster dam, and erected Fort Casimir, on the site of New Castle, to hold these Baltic men in check ; but on Trinity Sunday of 1654 they swarmed into the new fortress, and raised over it the banner of Sweden. Finally, however, the Dutch conquered and annexed the province, and all the Swedes who refused to accept their rule were shipped back to Europe. Together with New Amsterdam, Delaware passed, in 1664, from Dutch rule to that of the Duke of York, by whom, in 1682, it was granted to William Penn, and its delegates entered the Pennsylvania Legislature, the "Three Counties on Delaware " remaining under the Penn proprietary government until ,77S, although after 1702 they had a distinct assembly Del aware entered earnestly into the Revolution, and sent into the field a splendid Continental regiment, besides many militiamen under Gen. Rodney. Lord Beresford, in the Roebuck, STATISTICS. Settled at Wilmington. Settled in . 1638 Founded by . . . . Swedes, One of the original 13 States Voting Population (1880), Vote for Harrison (i888j, Vote for Cleveland (1888) Net State Debt {1890), . Area (square miles), U. S. Representatives, Militia (Disciplined), Counties,Cities, . Hundreds,Post-offices, Railroads (miles), . Manufactures (yearly), Farm Land (in acres), Farm Land Values, . Public School buildings, 38,298 '2,973 16,414 (11,762 2,050 1 653 3 1 28 156 . . 306 §50,000,000 1,100,000 837,000, oco .„_, . . 560 Average School Attendance, 22,000 Newspapers, ... 38 Latitude, 38° 28' to 39°5o' Longitude, . . 75° to 75c' and during the battle-years work was steadily carried forward on the Capitol, it being President Lincoln's opinion, that the cessation of these THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. '55 constructive labors would dispirit the soldiers of the army. The Capitol stands on the western brow of Capitol Hill, with its main front toward the plateau on the east, and the other side overlooking the city and its great departmental palaces, the broad estuary of the Potomac, and the lonely hills of Virginia. The building is in rich classic architecture, and covers three and a half acres, being composed of a central structure, containing the Rotunda and Library, and a north wing for the Senate Chamber and a south wing for the House of Representatives. Each of these sections has imposing colonnaded porticoes, the chief of which, on the eastern side of the central edifice, is the place where the Presidents are inaugurated. The dome, 307^ feet high and 135^ feet in diameter (and exceeded in size only by St. Peter's, St. Paul's, the Invalides and St. Isaac's), is crowned by a peri- styled lantern, above which stands Crawford's majestic bronze statue of Freedom, 19^ feet high. This huge dome contains 4,000 tons of iron, arranged to move during atmospheric changes like the folding and unfolding of a lily, and frequently painted a glistening white. It overarches the Rotunda, 96 feet in diameter and 180 feet high, adorned with historic busts and bas-reliefs and eight large historical paintings, with Brumidi's vivid allegorical fresco of the Apotheosis of Washing the dome is of wonderful beauty and erate forts and troops were visible architectural marvel. The Capitol the historic halls of the two devoted to the Representatives ton overhead. The view from the top of interest. For a long time the Confed- from the unfinished colonnades of this is crowded with interesting scenes ; houses of Congress (of which that is the largest legislative hall in the THE CAPITOL, FROM THE EAST. world) ; the grand porticoes, with their wealth of statuary and Corinthian columns ; the bronze doors, unequaled outside of Florence, and covered with statuettes and reliefs, the discovery of America, the life of Columbus, the Revolutionary battles, the inauguration of Washington; the Library of Congress, the largest in America, containing 640,000 books, and abounding in rare treasures of literature; the beautiful Supreme-Court Room, used in old times as the Senate Chamber, and now the seat of the highest legal tribunal in America ; the sumptuous reception and committee rooms and corridors ; the President's Room, the most richly decorated in America ; the Marble Room, of Italian and Tennessee marble, called the finest apartment of the kind in the world ; the wonderful marble stair cases of the legislative wings, with their great paintings of Chapultepec, the Battle of Lake Erie, and Westward the Star of Empire takes its way ; the huge Doric columns of the crypt ; and the National Statuary Hall, an impressive Greek chamber, of noble dimensions, adorned by each State with statues of two of its most illustrious sons. This unrivalled hall was used by the House of Representatives from 1808 to 1814, and from 1817 to 1857, and witnessed the triumphs of Webster and Clay, Randolph and Calhoun, Adams and Corwin, and other leaders of the Republic. The statues now here are William King of Maine ; Ethan Allen and Jacob Collamer of Vermont ; John Winthrop and Samuel Adams of Massachusetts ; Williams and Greene of Rhode Island ; Sherman and Trumbull of Connecticut ; George Clinton and Livingston of New York ; Stockton and Kearney of New Jersey ; Fulton and Muhlenberg of Pennsylvania ; Baker of Oregon ; Garfield and Allen of Ohio, and Lewis Cass of Michigan. Here also are David D' Anger's statue of Jefferson, Stone's Hamilton, Mrs. Hoxie's Lincoln, and Houdon's Washington. STATE, WAR AND NAVY DEPARTMENTS. 156 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The President conducts the Government administration by nine departments, State, Treasury, War, Navy, Interior, Post-Office, Justice, Agriculture and Labor, whose heads he appoints, subject to confirmation by the Senate. All but the last belong to the Cabinet. The State Department administers the external policy of the Government by nearly 1,300 persons in consular service and the legations. The so-called Department of Foreign Affairs was re-named the Department of State, in 1789, and has charge of the negotiation of treaties and diplomatic correspondence, grants passports, and guards the seal of the United States. In the event of the President and Vice-President dying in office, the Secretary of State succeeds them (Act of 1886). The State, War and Navy Departments occupy an enormous quadrangular structure, erected in 1871-88, at a cost of $10,500,000, and the largest granite building in the world. It covers four and a half acres, and has twenty acres of floor-space. Its huge blocks of light-gray Virginia and Maine granite weigh from half a ton to twenty tons each, and will outlast centuries. The State Department occupies the [ south wing, built in 1871-5. The original I Declaration of Independence and Wash ington's sword and commission are kept I in this building. The heads of the I State Department have been Jefferson, Randolph, Pickering, Marshall, Madison, j Smith, Monroe, Adams, Clay, Van Buren, 2|hL Livingston, McLane, Forsyth, Webster, :' ¦¦"'.-" '.- ¦===--- Legare, Upshur, Nelson, Calhoun, Bu chanan, Clayton, Everett, Marcy, Cass, Black, Seward, Washburne, Fish, Evarts, Frelinghuysen, Bayard and Blaine. The Treasury Department cost $8,000,000, and covers an area of 582 by 300 feet, including two enclosed courts. The east front was built in 1836-41, with a colonnade in the style of the Athenian temple of Minerva Pallas ; and the other three fronts arose in 1855-69, in noble Ionic architecture, with broad porticoes and many huge monolithic pillars. The material of these three fronts is Maine biotite granite, in cyclopean blocks ; and the Cash Room is lined with rare marble from Vermont, Tennessee, Italy and the Pyrenees. The huge vaults of steel and chilled iron contain the National-Bank bonds and scores of millions of dollars in silver and gold coin. The Department of the Treasury was organized in 1789, and has charge of the finances of the Republic, mints, currency, internal revenue, customs, receipts, life-saving service, steamboat inspection, marine hospi tals, light-houses, statistics, and the coast and geodetic survey. It employs over 16,000 persons, 2, 500 of them in the department proper. Among its chiefs have been Hamilton, Gallatin, Crawford, Rush, Woodbury, Guthrie, Cobb, Chase, McCulloch, Boutwell, Bristow, Sherman, Manning, Fairchild and Windom. The War Department occupies the central and the northern and western wings (built in 1878-89) of the vast granite palace where the State Department dwells, and has 1,500 clerks and 3,000 men employed outside. This is also the head quarters of the Army, consisting of 27,000 men, in ten regiments of cavalry, five of artillery, and 25 of infantry, and distributed over the Military Divisions of the Atlantic, the Missouri (including the Depart ments of the Platte and Dakota), and the Pacific (Departments of California and the Columbia), and the independent Departments ,„.„-, lrj iati-s treasury departm ;:t THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 157 interior department: the patent office. of Arizona, the Missouri and Texas, which report direct to Army headquarters. The Divi sion of the Atlantic includes Louisiana and all the States east of the Mississippi River, except Illinois. The Secretary of War arranges all details of the military service, trans portation, and the purchase of supplies for the army. The Quartermaster-General and 1,800 employees see to the transportation, clothing and quarters of the Army; the Com missary-General and 70 men provide subsistence for the troops ; the Surgeon -General has 1,000 persons to help him, and the Paymaster-General has 140. The Chief of Engi neers looks to the fortifications, rivers and harbors, and bridges ; the Chief of Ordnance is in care of the artillery, arsenals, weapons and munitions ; the Judge-Advocate General is in charge of the Bureau of Military Justice. The Adjutant-General and his 200 officials regulate the correspondence, recruiting and gen eral discipline of the Army ; and the Inspec tor-General inspects forts and posts, accounts, personnel and materiel of the Army. Among the heads of the War Department have been Knox, Pickering, McIIenry, Dexter, Dearborn, Eustis, Armstrong, Monroe, Crawford, Cal houn, Barbour, Porter, Eaton, Cass, Poinsett, Marcy, Cameron, Stanton, Belknap, Endicott and Proctor. The Navy Department, in the eastern wing (built in 1872-9), supervises the American fleets, their building and equipment, manning and employment. The bureaus are those of Yards and Docks, Navigation, Ordnance, Equipment, Provisions and Clothing, Medicine and Surgery, Construction and Repair, and Steam Engineering. The Naval Observatory, with a Warner & Swasey telescope, the Hydrographic Office and the Nautical-Almanac Office are also under the Navy Department. There are 250 clerks in the department, and 3,800 employees outside. The Navy includes 8,250 sailors and 2,000 marines, in 80 vessels, carrying 300 guns. The fleets remained under the direction of the Secretary of War until 1798, when the Department of the Navy came into being, and the Marine Corps was organized. Among its heads have been Crowninshield, Dickerson, Paulding, Upshur, Bancroft, Mason, Toucey, Welles, Robeson, Chandler, Whitney and Tracy. The Interior Department covers two squares, nearly midway between the Capitol and the White House, with its immense and massive facades and porticoes, in the Doric style, and mainly of glistening white Maryland marble. This edifice is one of the finest in Washington, and usually bears the name of the Patent Office, because its great halls contain myriads of inventors' models. The Interior Department has nearly 10,000 persons in its service, under the Commissioners of Patents, Pensions, General Land-Office, Indian Affairs, Education, Railroads, Geological Survey, Inter-State Com merce, Pacific Railways and the Census. The south front of the structure dates from 1836-40, and the rest from 1849- 67. The building contains 191 rooms, and cost $2,700,000. The Department of the Interior dates from 1849, an(^ nas numbered among its chiefs McClelland, Usher, Delano, Chandler, Schurz, Lamar and Noble. The earliest legis lation about patents occurred in 1790 ; and the first Com missioner of Patents received his appointment in 1836. The Patent Office has no equal in the world, and admirably shows forth the ingenuity and enterprise of the American people. The Post-Office Department occupies a rich and ornate Corinthian structure of white marble, begun in 1839, oppo- INTERIOR CONGRESSIONAL LIBRARY. *5* KLNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNITED-STATES post-office. site the Patent Office. It has 600 clerks, and an outside force of nearly one hundred and fifty thousand persons, including 63,000 postmasters (handling 4,000,000,000 pieces yearly), and 6,000 persons in the railway mail service. The no clerks in the Dead-Letter Office yearly treat above 6,500,000 pieces of mail-matter. The department began operations in 1789. and the Postmaster-General first became a Cabinet officer in 1829, in Jackson's admin istration. Among its chiefs have been Pickering, Habersham, Granger, Meigs, Kendall, Campbell, Blair, Creswell, Jewell, Vilas and Wanamaker. The Department of Agriculture began its labors in 1 862, and distributes yearly among the people over 1,200,000 packages of seeds, and myriads of vines and plants, besides several hundred thousand volumes of reports. It occu pies a spacious and attractive building, in Renais sance architecture, on the Mall, between the Capitol and the Washington Monument, and is surrounded by rich gardens, beautiful flower-beds, Italian terraces, experimental grounds, arboretums and plant-houses. The museum and libraries con tain vast collections. There are 400 employees, devoted to forestry, ornithology, pomology, seeds and other objects, with a botanist, chemist, en tomologist, microscopist, statistician, and other officials. The Department of Justice arose in 1870, and occupies a building near the Treasury, with nearly 2,000 persons in the service. The Attorney-General, its head, is the chief law- officer of the Government, and has been a Cabinet officer since 1789. The Department of Labor (taking the place of the Bureau of Labor, organized in 1885) was constituted in 1888, to acquire and diffuse information about labor, capital, earnings, and the means of promoting the material, social, intellectual and moral prosperity of the working classes. Its head is Carroll D. Wright. The White House, or Executive Mansion, stands between the Treasury and State Depart ments, surrounded by emerald lawns and noble old trees, and with views of the Potomac and the Virginian hills. It was built in 1792-1800, on the model of the Duke of Leinster's mansion at Dublin, and contains many beautiful rooms and works of art. The U.-S. Coast Survey, a bureau of the Treas ury Department, dates from 1807, and occupies a granite building near the Capitol. Here are kept the Standards of Weights and Measures for the States. The Coast Survey was ' ' suggested by Jefferson, begun by Gallatin, organized by Hassler, and per fected by Bache, and is recognized by every learned body in the world." The Bureau of Engraving and Printing, with its 1,200 work-people, prepares all the paper money and bonds of the United States, in a building near the Washington Monument. The Government Printing-Office and Bindery is the largest in the world, and has turned out in a single year 200,000 pages of composition, in over 1,500,000 volumes. Many of these books have become famous for the perfection of their manufacture, as well as for their other merits. The office employs 2,700 persons, and pays out about $3,000,000 a year. The Smithsonian Institution is a noble and picturesque Norman structure of red sand stone, many-towered and rambling, with cloisters, battlements and loopholes, and sur rounded by the beautiful Mall, which was laid out by A. J. Downing. A fund of $515,619 was bequeathed in 1828, by James Smithson, an English scientist, to the United States, to BUREAU OF ENGRAVING AND PRINTING. THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 159 NEW NAVAL OBSERVATORY. found "an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." The building was erected in 1847-66 ; and the Smithsonian fund in the United-States Treasury is $703,000. The interest of this fund is applied to original scientific research, the publica tion of "Contributions to Knowledge," in quarto form, of "Miscellaneous Collections" and "Annual Reports " in octavo, the promotion of explorations and collections in unknown parts of the globe, the free transmission of scientific and literary works of societies and individuals from the United States to all parts of the world, and the return in exchange of similar articles. It has been entrusted by the Congress of the United States with the management of several important and constantly growing establishments, viz.: the "National Museum," the "Bureau of Ethnology," the " Bureau of International Exchanges," and the "National Zoological Park " in Washington City. It is governed by a Board of Regents, consisting of the Vice-President and Chief Justice of the United States, and twelve other members appointed by Congress : three Senators, three members of the House, four citizens from different States, and two citizens of Washington. The President of the United States is ex-officio President of the -Institution ; the Chief Justice is the Chancellor. The executive officer is a secretary selected by the Regents, the present incumbent being Samuel P. Langley, the celebrated astronomer. The National Museum is supported by annual appro priations made by Congress. Long before the Smith sonian Institution had commenced active operations, a society had been formed under the patronage of the Government for the purpose of organizing a National Museum. The collections made by the early Government expeditions were placed in the custody of the Smithsonian Institution, and these, together with others which had found a temporary shelter in the Patent Office, were in 1858 merged into the National collection. From this time the name of National Museum was conferred upon all the collections under the control of the Smithsonian Institution. In 1879 an appropriation was made by Con gress for a separate museum building. This structure, covering two and a half acres of ground, and lying east of the Smithsonian building, was ready for occupancy in 1881. There are in the museum sixteen exhibition halls and 120 rooms, which are used as offices and laboratories by the scientific and administrative departments. There are nearly 3,000,000 specimens in the collections of the anthropological, zoological, botanical and geo logical departments. The collection of historical relics contains many objects of interest connected with the history of Washington, Franklin, Jefferson, Jackson, Lincoln, Grant and other distinguished American statesmen and officers of the Army and Navy. The valuable collection of Indian paintings by George Catlin is also on exhibition. The Museum is now visited annually by about 300,000 persons. Since the building was completed, in 1881, nearly 2,500,000 people have been regis tered by the door-keepers. The collections of antiquities, birds and shells are exhibited in the Smithsonian building. The Army Medical Museum, which formerly occupied the old Ford Theatre, in which President Lincoln was assassinated, and is now in its new building, near the National" Museum, contains 22,000 specimens, surgical, medical, microscop ical, anatomical and miscellaneous. It is the larg est and best collection of the kind in the world, and is frequented by many thousands of students. u J J SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 160 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Surgeon-General's valuable Library in this building contains 100,000 books and 150,000 pamphlets. The Pension Building, covering two acres, is an enormous brick edifice, in the style of an Italian palace, surrounding a court, whose glass roof is supported by eight lofty pillars. The U.-S. Naval Observatory, on Georgetown Heights, has a group of nine modern classic buildings, designed by Richard M. Hunt, and is fully equipped with great telescopes. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio), designed and built the 45-foot and 26^-foot steel domes. The Congressional Library Building is now under construction, to be finished in 1895, $6,500,000 having been appropriated for it. The material is white New-Hampshire granite, and the courts are faced with ivory-white enamelled brick. The building is two thirds of the size of the Capitol, and the finest for the purpose in the world. The Corcoran Gallery of Art, founded and richly endowed by the late W. W. Cor coran, a banker of Washington, contains one of the finest collections of pictures and statu ary in America, including works by the old masters and modern European painters, and many specimens of our own art, by Leutze, Sully, Huntingdon and other American masters. It was opened to the public in 1874, and occupies a handsome building opposite the War Department. The Government Botanical Garden, at the foot of Capitol Hill, covers ten acres with its conservatories and gardens, enriched with a great variety of native flora and rare exotics. The U.-S. Navy Yard was acquired in 1799, and the Wasp, Argus, Potomac, St. Louis, Brandywine, Minnesota and other famous ships first entered the water here. It covers 27 acres, along the Anacostia River, about a mile from the Capitol ; and has spacious barracks and workshops, and many trophies. The great National cannon-foundry is at the Wash ington Navy Yard, and has the finest and most improved machinery for its work. It was established during Cleveland's administration, and has turned out most of the armaments of the new cruisers and gun-boats. The Marine Barracks, near the Navy Yard, are the headquarters of the Marine Corps, famous for valiant deeds in Tripoli and Mexico, Corea, and the Pacific Islands, and elsewhere. The U. -S. Arsenal occupies 45 acres at the south ern point of the city, between the Potomac and Anacostia rivers, with pleasant grounds, barracks, magazines, military stores, and cannon captured from the enemies of the Repub lic. The Arsenal dates from 1803, and was the depot of ordnance supplies for the Army of the Potomac. The Soldiers' Home was founded in 185 1, with the tribute-money levied on the city of Mexico by Gen. Scott, and is maintained by a monthly tax of twelve cents on each soldier of the regular army, for whose use it is reserved. It has several handsome marble buildings, in a park of 500 acres, three miles north of the Capitol, and supports 500 disabled veterans. The grounds contain Launt Thompson's bronze statue of General Scott. This locality was the favorite summer-home of Presidents Pierce, Buchanan and Lincoln. The Congressional Cemetery, near the Anacostia, contains the graves of many distin guished statesmen and officers. There is a National Cemetery, near the ancient Rock- Creek Church and the Soldiers' Home, with over 6,000 graves. In Oak-Hill Cemetery is the grave of John Howard Payne, the author of Home, Sweet Home, with its beautiful classic monument and portrait-bust. Here also are the graves of General Reno, Secretary Stanton and other notables. The Washington Monument, designed by Robert Mills, and built in the periods 1848- 54 and 1880-4 (at a cost of $1,200,000), is a majestic white obelisk 555 feet high, above the ground, and 592 feet above the foundations, the loftiest piece of masonry in the world, surpassing even the Great Pyramid, Cologne and Antwerp Cathedrals, and St. Peter's. The pyramidal crest is crowned by a pointed block of shining alumnium. The monument stands in a park of 45 acres, near the shore of the Potomac River, and on the Mall leading from the Capitol ; and the eight windows near the top command beautiful views of the city, the winding and silvery Potomac, and the distant Blue Ridge. The outside is of crystal Maryland marble ; and the base is 55 feet square, with walls 15 feet thick. The THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 161 WASHINGTON : SOME PUBLIC ART WORK, 162 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GARFIELD MONUMENT. interior is lighted by electricity, and traversed by a stairway of 800 steps, and an elevator which rises to the top in seven minutes. The Lafayette Monument was executed by Falguiere and Mercie, eminent Parisian sculptors, in 1888-90, and shows a colossal bronze Lafayette, in a Continental uniform, and around the marble base bronze statues of Rochambeau and Du- portail, De Grasse and D'Estaing, soldiers of the French army and fleet which aided in freeing this Republic. There is also a symbolic statue of America. The Naval Monument, or Monument of Peace, at the foot of Capitol Hill, was made in Rome, of Carrara marble, and mainly paid for by subscriptions from the Navy. It is a group of beautiful emblematic statues, designed by Franklin Simmons, and erected in 1877. East of the Capitol is the bronze group representing Emancipation, with Abraham Lincoln holding the Proclamation over a negro whose shackles are broken. It was designed by Thomas Ball, and the freed colored people paid for the entire work. Another statue of Lincoln stands in front of the District Court House. The equestrian statue of General Jackson, on Lafayette Square, was made by Clark Mills, from brass cannon captured by the hero of New Orleans, and received its dedication in 1853, with an oration by Douglas. The colossal equestrian statue of Lieut. -General Scott was made by H. K. Brown, from cannon taken by its subject in the Mexican War. Another equestrian statue, on Wash ington Circle, represents General Washing ton at the Battle of Princeton. Capitol Hill has an equestrian statue of General Nathan iel Greene, of the Continental army, dedi cated in 1877. The Society of the Army of the Tennessee erected in 1876 Rebisso's col ossal equestrian statue of General McPher- son, made from the bronze of war-worn cannon. The noble equestrian statue of General Geo. H. Thomas (by J. Q. A. Ward) was erected in 1879 by the Society of the Army of the Cumberland. East of the Capitol is Greenough's colossal Carrara-marble statue of Wash ington, received in 1840; and on the west stands Story's bronze statue of Chief- Justice John Marshall, unveiled in 1884. Among the other statues in Washington are those of Admiral Dupont (by Launt Thompson), a bronze figure of heroic proportions, unveiled in 1884 ; Vinnie Ream Hoxie's bronze figure of Admiral Farragut, made from the metal of the propeller of his famous flagship Hartford, and unveiled in 188 1 ; Plassman's marble statue of Benjamin Franklin ; Bailey's bronze figure of Gen. Rawlins, Grant's chief of staff ; Story's bronze statue of Prof. Henry, near the Smithsonian Institution ; the colossal bronze statue of Martin Luther, erected by the Lutherans of America ; and President Garfield's statue, on Maryland Avenue. Franklin's statue was a gift of Stilson Hutchins. The environs of Washington are full of interest, and afford a variety of pleasant excursions. Steamboats run down the Potomac, daily, to Mount Vernon, the home and burial-place of George Washing ton, giving opportunity for a pilgrim age which should be taken by every patriotic American. The quaint old Virginian city of Alexandria, connect ed by ferry-steamers with Washing ton, preserves the church in which the Father of his Country used to worship, after the manner of the Epis- medical library and museum, u.-s. army. NATIONAL MUSEUM. THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 163 CORCORAN ART GALLERY. copalians. Across the river from Washington, the yellow front of the Arlington mansion gleams out from the dark trees of Arlington Heights. This house was built in 1802 by G. W. P. Custis, Mrs. Washington's grandson, and George Washington's adopted son, whose daughter married Robert E. Lee. Here Lee dwelt until he threw in his lot with the insurgent South. The deserted estate became a place of National camps and forts, and now belongs to the Government, and has been occupied as a National Cemetery, where over 16,000 soldiers of the Federal armies during the Secession War remain in "The bivouac of the dead." Remnants of old fortifications may be found on these mem orable Virginian hills ; and the roads leading thence to Falls Church and Annandale, Fair fax and Manassas, recall the marches of McDowell and McClellan, Hooker and Burnside, Meade and Grant. In 1861 Washington was practically only a second-rate Maryland town, with streets of abysmal mud, littered here and there by half-finished public buildings. It lay between two great slave States, perplexed Maryland and wrong-headed Virginia, and the army considered it as not worth saving, for itself, but very much worth saving on account of what it represented, to wit, the throne of American Government, and the metropolis of free institu tions and Republican ideas in the world. In those dark days, even the Royal Foundry at Munich refused to make the bronze doors for the U.-S. Senate, unless the cost was prepaid. This demand was met by a spirited order from Washington to ship the model of the doors to America ; and at Chicopee (Mass. ), the metal- founding was admirably done, showing, in imperishable bronze, the heroic deeds of George Washington. Washington is now one of the most desirable residence- cities in the world, with a blameless civic administration, a bland climate, beautiful scenery and architecture, and noble historic associations. The chief foreign diplomats have their residences here, and many other foreigners. The lead ing American statesmen, authors, scientific men and society people are found on Pennsylvania Avenue, at some time during the year ; and the number of distinguished people who become permanent residents of the Federal' City grows larger every decade. The quaint old building on the corner of Fifteenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, formerly the Washington Branch of the Bank of the United States, has been occupied since 1845 Dy a private banking firm of high reputation and credit. Nearly a century ago, when the neighboring town of George town was a commercial point of some importance, Elisha Riggs was a prosperous merchant in that place, having as his book keeper the afterwards-famous George Peabody. George Wash ington Riggs, eldest son of Elisha Riggs, formed a co-partner ship in 1840 with W. W. Corcoran, of Georgetown ; and the firm (Corcoran & Riggs) rapidly obtained an important position in the financial world, and successfully negotiated the Mexican War Loans for the Government. Mr. Corcoran retired from active business in 1854, since which date the firm has used its present title, Riggs & Co. George W. Riggs died as head of the house in 1881 ; and the present partners are Elisha Francis Riggs (son of George BRONZE DOOR OF THE CAPITOL. WASHINGTON : RIGGS & CO. '8 BANK. WASHINGTON : THE ARLINGTON HOTEL. T.64 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. W. Riggs), Charles C. Glover, Thomas Hyde and James M. Johnston. This old and renowned house conducts a very large business and retains its con servative reputation at home and abroad. The Arlington Hotel was opened in 1869, on the sites of the homes of Marcy and Cass, secretaries of State under Pierce and Buchanan, and of Reverdy Johnson and Charles Sumner. Among its guests have been Presidents Grant and Arthur, Cleveland and Harrison, the Emperor Dom Fedro of Brazil, the Grand Duke Alexis, Prince Napoleon, the Duke of Orleans, the Count of Paris, King Kalak- aua and Queen Kapiolani, President Diaz of Mexico, President Barrios of Guatemala, General Boulanger, Patti, Adelaide Neilson and hundreds of pther notables, and embassies from many foreign powers. The hotel, with its new extension, stretches from Lafayette Square (on which the White House fronts) to McPherson Square, and is in every re spect sumptuous. The beautiful and spacious parlors, in Louis Quartorze and other delicate styles of decoration, have been the scene of many famous receptions. Of the hotels at Washington, the Arlington is not only the largest of those strictly first-class, but it is foremost in all its appointments and management. Ever since 1870 its proprietor has been T. A. Roessle. Washington has four daily newspapers, thirty-four weeklies, eighteen monthlies and two quarterlies. Here, too, are the all- important Washington offices for correspondents of all the great newspapers of the world ; some occupying commodious quarters, and in one case, The Baltimore Sun, having a home in its own elegant and conspicuous eight-story stone-front building. The foremost chronicler and helper of the growth of modern Washington has been The Evening Star newspaper, which has the greatest local circulation of any American journal, in proportion to the population of the city in which it is pub lished. This remarkable supremacy is due to the fact that the key-note struck by its first issues, away back in 1852, has always been followed, in the presentation of a clean, enterpris ing and bright independent paper, especially devoted to the interests of Washington and the District of Columbia, with all the latest local news and American and foreign reports, by As sociated and United Press as well as special dis patches. The daily circulation of The Star exceeds 32,000 copies, most of which reach the households of the city, a fact which illustrates, more forcibly than any words that could be used, the popular es teem in which the paper is held. For nearly a quarter of a century the management of The Star has been in its present hands, — Crosby S. Noyes ably editing it, and S. H. Kauffmann, as president of the company, conducting its general business af fairs. The Star Buildings cover a large area on one of the most prominent and valuable corners in the city, and contain an equipment in every depart ment not excelled by that of any afternoon newspa- WASHINGTON : THE EVENING STAR BUILDING. Per ln tne worlcl. m Il - iipE Kfti i Mi K'-'fc jjjbjL.:" -'^¦"KSi^B.--'. BALTIMORE SUN BUILDING. Florida was the first re gion of North America to be colonized by Europeans. It was discovered and ex plored in 1 5 13, by Juan Ponce de Leon, landing at a bay just north of St. Au gustine, and proclaiming the sovereignty of Spain. Fourteen years later Panfilo de Narvaez marched inland from Apalachee Bay, with 300 Spaniards, in a futile and fatal attempt to conquer and colonize the country. All these adventurers perished, except Cabeza de Vaca and three others, who discovered and crossed the Mississippi, and reached the Spanish towns of Mexico. The Adelantado Hernando de Soto landed near Tampa, in 1539, with a noble array of armor-clad knights and men-at-arms, and marched across West Florida, and away among the pagan tribes beyond. In 1564 Laudonniere and his French Huguenots built Fort Caroline, on the St. -John's River, but were surprised by a Spanish fleet under Menendez, and massacred, "Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans," as the inscription left on their bodies grimly attested. In 1568, De Gourgues's expedition captured the fort on the St. John's, and hung the garrison, "Not as Spaniards, but as traitors, thieves and murderers." St. Augustine was founded and named by the pitiless Menendez, in 1565. Twenty-one years later Sir Francis Drake utterly destroyed the town; and in 1665 the bucca neers plundered it. Gov. Moore led a South-Carolinian army against St. Augustine in 1 702, and was beaten off from the fort. Oglethorpe vainly besieged the place for 38 days, in 1740, with 1,400 Georgians and Carolinians, and rained shot and shell upon it from Anastasia Island. The settlement of West Florida began in 1696, when cola. Florida was ceded to Great Britain in 1763, in return colonies, and many Tories from the Carolinas, nearly all Population in i860, In 1870, . In 1880, White, Colored, . . American-born, Foreign-born, . Males, Females, . . In 1890 (U. S. Census), Population to the square mile, Voting Population (i Vote for Harrison (1888) Vote for Cleveland (1888 Net State Debt (1800),' Assessed Property, . Area (square miles), U.S. Representatives Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . . Manufactures (yearly) Farm Land (in acres), Farm-Land Values, Colleges and Professional Schools, School Buildings 1,800 Average School-Attendance, 51,000 Newspapers, ... 121 Latitude, . 24°30' to 31° N. Longitude, . . 79°48' to 87°38' W. Mean Temperature (St. Augustine), 69%° Mean Temperature (Key West) 76%° TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. 61,679 26,657 '¦), 39,56l ¦ SI53.39I S77,ooo,ooo . 58,680 2 1,300 45 855 2,283 85,500,000• 3.300,000 $20,000,000 Key West, . Jacksonville, Pensacola, . Orlando, . . St, Augustine, Gainesville,Tallahassee,Tampa, , . Palatka, . 18,05817,1601 1. 75i 5,000 4,5co4,000 3,500 3,500 3,000 Fernandina, 3,cco the Spaniards occupied Pensa- for Cuba, and received English of whom removed to Georgia i66 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SILVER SPRING. when Don Bernardo de Galvez captured West Florida. The country was ceded back to Spain (in 1 783) in exchange for the Bahamas. The Apalachicola River became the boundary be tween the provinces of East and West Florida. The people of the Gulf States were ill-pleased at the continuance of a European power in Florida, and Gen. Jackson seized Pensacola, in 1814, and four years later occupied both Pensacola and St. Augustine. On both occasions the Government recalled its too enthusiastic officers, and the Spanish system was restored. In 182 1 the King of Spain reluctantly ceded Florida to the United States, and Andrew Jackson became its Governor. There were then but 600 whites in Florida, dwelling mainly in Pensacola and St. Augus tine, the rest of the country being occupied by the Seminoles, numbering about 4,000, with 800 slaves. The aboriginal Floridians were the Miccosukee Indians. After 1750, migrating bands of Creeks from Alabama occupied Alachua and Tallahassee, and swallowed up the original tribes. In 1835 began the Seminole War, which lasted for seven years, and cost $20,000,000 and the lives of 1,500 American soldiers. Over 30,000 volunteers were called out by the United-States Government, including commands even from New York and Missouri. Every settlement south of St. Augustine was blotted out. In 1835 the ^n" dians massacred Maj. Dade and his command of 109 men, and were beaten by Gen. Clinch. In 1837 Zachary Taylor and 1,100 troops defeated 380 Indians in a hard battle at Lake Okeechobee, losing 138 men. The savages, under the great chief Osceola, were driven southward, to Suwanee, to Orange Lake, and across the Everglades, until the navy joined Florida Keys. Most of the Mississippi in 1842 and 1858, tory ; but 300 of them cling to glades, with their chief village Pierce, on Indian River. sion War, Florida promptly tempting to leave the Union, tional property within her of Fort Pickens, near Pensa- Taylor, on the Keys, were in the closing campaigns among the Seminoles were removed beyond the and now dwell in the Indian Terri- their old homes among the E at Tallafajassa, 15 miles from Fori At the outbreak of the Seces- joined the Southern States in at- seizing all the unprotected Na- borders. The strong defences cola, and Forts Jefferson and securely held by their Federal ~>^P garrisons ; and the vessels of >( the United- States navy kept ~%'i. command of most of the coast. Early in 1864 Gen. Seymour occupied Jackson ville with 7,000 Federal troops, and advanced westward nearly to Lake City. At Ocean Pond. on the Olustee, his army was thrown in detail against a strongly posted Confederate force, and defeated, losing 1,861 men out of 5,500 engaged, Out of an equal force, the enemy lost 940. After this appalling carnage the National troops re treated to Jacksonville, which remained secure under the Federal control. The terrible yellow-fever pestilence of 1888 was the result of the carelessness of the local government, which allowed the disease to spread out from Tampa. It held high carnival at Jacksonville, with 4,711 cases, of whom 412 died; and also at Fernandina. Gainesville and other places. A State Board of Health was created in 1889, and wil1 De able to act with intelligence and authority in future emergencies, so that it will be difficult for epidemics to make such ravages again. FLORIDA FRUITS. THE STATE OF FLORLDA. TAMPA BAY. l67 The Name of the State was given by its dis coverer, Ponce de Leon, who first saw the land on Easter Sunday, or, as the Spaniards have it, Pascua Florida, "The Flowery Festival." The name therefore means "The Flowery," or "The Land of Flowers." Florida is called THE EVERGLADE STATE, from one of its natural features. The peo ple used to be nicknamed "Fly-up-the-Creeks. " The Arms of Florida show an Indian upon a bank, scattering flowers ; the sun sinking or rising behind distant hills ; a river in the middle ground, bearing a side-wheel steamboat ; and a great cocoanut tree. The motto is : In God we Trust. The Governors of Florida have been : Territorial: Andrew Jackson, 1821-2; Wm. P. Duval, 1822-34; John H. Eaton, 1834-6; Richard K. Call, 1836-9 and 1S41-4; Robert R. Reid, 1839-41 ; John Branch, 1844-5. State : Wm. D. Moseley, 1845-9 '< Thomas Brown, 1849-53; James E. Broome, 1853-67; Madison S. Perry, 1857-61; John Milton, 1861-5; A. K. Allison (acting), 1865; Wm. Marvin (provisional), 1865-6; David S. Walker, Si'., 1866-9; Harrison Reed, 1869-73; Ossian B. Hart, 1873-4; Marcellus L. Stearns, 1874-7; George F. Drew, 1877-81 ; Wm. D. Bloxham, 1881-5; Edward A. Perry, 1885-9; and Francis P. Fleming, 1889-93. Geography. — East Florida includes the peninsula, westward to the Suwanee River; Middle Florida extends from the Suwanee to the Apalachicola ; and West Florida reaches thence to the Perdido River. Another division is North Florida, from 300 to the northern line, 45 miles wide ; Central (or semi-tropical) Florida, a land of savannas and hammocks, lakes and rivers ; and South (or sub-tropical) Florida, where there is very slight difference in the temperature, summer and winter. The distance from the northern line to the remotest Key is 450 miles, and the average width of the peninsula is 95 miles. The distance from the Atlantic to the western line is 400 miles. It is 700 miles from the Perdido River to Cape Sable. Imaginative geographers find in Florida the shape of an inverted boot, with the heel on the St. Mary's River and the toe at < Pensacola. The central highlands contain many pleasant modern villages, in a rolling country cov ered with a majestic growth of pines, and diversified by hundreds of crystalline lakes. Among the famous resorts in this region are Altamonte Springs, on Lake Orienta; the Seminole Hotel, among the orange-groves of Winter Park ; Ocala, and Lake Weir. The mineral waters of the Ponce-de-Leon, Green-Cove, White Sulphur, Suwannee, Newport and other springs have attracted much attention, and are visited by many health-seekers. The 1,200 miles of Florida's coast (472 miles on the Atlantic, the rest on the Gulf) in cludes among its chief harbors Fernandina, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Daytona, and Port Orange, on the Atlantic ; and Key West, Oyster Bay, Punta Rassa, Charlotte Harbor, Tampa, Cedar Keys, Carabelle, St. Mark's, Apalachicola and Pensacola on the Gulf. The Atlantic coast is fronted with narrow sandy islands, enclosing far-reaching lagoons. The w^zTr'sc^r^^wK*- I broad StraitsofFloridasweeparound between SUWANEE RIVER. i68 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the peninsula and Cuba and the Bahama Banks, with the deep-blue Gulf Stream filling them from shore to shore, 30 miles wide, 2,000 feet deep, and rushing eastward and north ward at a rate of five miles an hour, at a temperature of 84°. There are myriads of islands around Florida, including those in the Everglades, the Ten Thousand Islands, and the famous Florida Keys (Cayes), extending 200 miles south- westward from Cape Florida to the Dry Tortugas. Many of the Keys are uninhabited ; and nearly all of them are infested by enormous swarms of mosquitoes. A navigable channel separates the sand-flats upon which the Keys rise from the longhand dangerous chain of the Florida Reefs. The Keys are only a few feet above the tide ; and bear mangrove, mastic, sweet bay, gumbo-limbo, palmetto, pine, and other trees, among their sands and rocks. Cocoanuts, hemp, and pineapples grow here with little attention. Largo is the greatest of the islands, and encloses broad bays and lagoons. Here, and at Elliott's and the Mate- cumbe and Plantation Keys, 600 truck-farmers raise tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas and other fruits for the early market, sending 50,000 crates by the Mallory Line to New York every season. Since 1880, 600,000 cocoanut- trees have been planted on and near the Keys, with wonderful success, and their product is shipped north in increasing volume. They re quire salt air, and will not endure frosts. One hundred trees grow on an acre, bearing fruit in from seven to ten years. During the season of pineapples, several thousand bar rels are shipped from Key West every week. They are of the red Spanish variety, grow ing on dry sandy soil, 10,000 plants to the acre, and bearing the second year. The enor mous development of the cocoanut and pineapple culture along the coast and up as far as the Caloosahatchee and Lake Worth, and the rapid advance in raising dates, guavas and lemons in South Florida have been almost entirely the result of the past ten years, and will enrich the Republic by a variety of new and delicious food-supplies. Key West, 60 miles from the main, and 90 miles from Havana, ;is the sailors' pronuncia tion of the Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Reef), so named because the early explorers found here great quantities of human bones. It was settled in 1818 by Connecticut fishermen, who sold their fish in Havana. About 20 years ago a number of Cu ban exiles took refuge here, and established the manufac ture of cigars, from Havana leaf. There .are now 125 factories, making over 125,000,000 cigars yearly. Key West has a noble and well-fortified harbor, with a naval station, and lines of steam ships to Cedar Keys, Tampa, Havana, New Orleans, Galveston and New York. It is the ninth port of entry in the United States ; and the only Gulf- coast city never occupied by the Confederacy. The island is six miles by a mile and a half in area. The city has broad streets, ten churches and a fire-proof Masonic Temple; many structures of limestone quarried on the island; fine public buildings, and several lines of street-cars. It is peculiarly a Spanish colony, with foreign architecture. The climate is so equable, tropical and withal bracing, that this locality has become a sani tarium for sufferers from diseases of the throat and lungs, and catarrhal patients. Snow- flakes have never been seen here. Key West is 66J hours from New York, by fast mail, and less than twelve hours from Havana, by the steamship route. The southernmost point of the United States is Sand Key, seven miles south-southwest of Key West, on the edge of EY-WEST HARBOR. S. NAVAL STATION AND GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. HOMOSASSA RIVER. THE STA TE OF FLORIDA. 169 the Florida Reefs. Here a tall brown and white light-house beacons the Florida Straits, within 80 miles of Havana. The fisheries of Florida are the largest in the South, and engage 10,000 men, with a yearly product of $1,000,000. The sponge-fishery is one of the leading industries, and employs 1,000 fishermen and 400 vessels and sail-boats, built on the Keys, and manned by Bahama negroes ( ' 'Nas sau coons"). A sponging vessel has several boats, each sculled slowly by one man, while the other, perched in the bow, watches the bot tom of the channel for sponges, and secures them by a three-pronged iron claw fastened to a long pole. Key West alone ships nearly $400,000 worth of sponges every year, mainly to Paris. The mullet-fisheries of West Florida were famous in the old Spanish days, and now 5,000,000 pounds a year are exported to Cuba. The grouper fisheries are also very important and lucrative. The red snapper is a handsome, favorite and appetizing fish, and 2,500,000 pounds are sent from Pensacola yearly, largely to New York. The pom- pano is another valued denizen of these waters ; and here also are found the king-fish, sheepshead, bream, Spanish mackerel, channel-bass, blue-fish, sea-trout, and oysters. Shad run in the rivers ; and outside are found sharks, cuttle-fish and octopuses. The green-turtle and sea-turtle (sometimes weighing 1, 200 pounds each) captured in nets among the Keys are of great value, and their eggs (100 to 300 in each nest) are prized as food. Alligators dwell in all the rivers, and are shot by thousands ; and on the lower coast are found the manatee and crocodiles. Many Bahama corallers get an arduous living by breaking from the sub merged Keys, tree, finger, brain, red and other varieties of corals, which are sent North and sold for good prices. Tarpon fishing is one of the most exciting of sports. Much of the Atlantic coast is fringed with long and narrow islands, like Amelia, on which Fernandina stands, and Anastasia, opposite St. Augustine. Fort-George Island, at the mouth of the St. -John's, is a beautiful sea-fronting winter-resort. Indian River, a salt water lagoon 165 miles long, and from one to six miles wide, and separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land, is famous for its delicious oranges and pineapples. The southerly part, from St. Lucie to Jupiter Inlet, is called Jupiter Narrows, or St. -Lucie Sound. Florida has 1,200 miles of river navigation, on twenty streams. The St. -John's River is nearly 400 miles long, flowing northward parallel with the ocean coast, from its birth place in the swamps just north of the Everglades, through a chain of silvery lakes, reach ing a width of a mile 50 leagues above its mouth, and in its lower courses broadening to six miles across. The river is divided into three sections (1), the Port of St. John's, 22 miles long, from the jetties at the mouth up to Jacksonville, the avenue of a large steam ship commerce; (2) the St. -John's River, 125 miles long, from Jacksonville to Sanford (on Lake Monroe), with several steamboat lines; and (3), the Upper St .-John's, extend ing 1 50 miles, from Sanford to Lake Florence, and navigated by smaller vessels, which thread the dark bayous far into the remote and un peopled south. Its tributaries, the Ocklawaha and Kissimmee, are also the avenues of a con siderable trade. The recent drainage-works have opened a steamboat route 140 miles long, on the historic Caloosahatchee River, Lake Okeechoobee, and the Kissimmee, Cypress and Tohopekaliga Lakes, into inland Florida. The Peace, Manatee, Withlacoochee, St. Mark's, 170 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LAKE CITY : STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. Apalachicola and other rivers are being improved by United-States Engineers. The Suwanee has been made navigable to Ellaville, 124 miles. Lake Okeechobee covers 1,000 square mile and is from 16 to 22 feet above the sea. In rainy times it overspreads vast areas of the Everglades, and floods entire townships. The Everglades is a vast and luxuriant swamp of 7,500 square miles, during the rainy season (from July to October) covered with from one to ten feet of pure and clear water, abounding in fish, and studded with islands, some of them containing hundreds of acres of cypresses and pines, palmettoes and magnolias. The United States patented to Florida nearly 20,000,000 acres of land, of which the State had on her hands, in 1881, 12,758,000 acres unsold, but encumbered by a lien (the Vose Judgment) of nearly $1,000,000, largely on account of railroad construction. In 1881, Hamilton Disston and others of Philadelphia paid $1,000,000 for 4,000,000 acres, and formed the Florida Land and Improvement Company, which has since acquired vast additional tracts, besides selling 2,000,000 acres to Sir Edward Reed and other British capitalists. This enterprising company also offered to drain the Everglades and lower its lakes, if half the redeemed territory (in alternate sec tions) should be granted them. The new drainage area extends 85 miles from Lake Tohopekaliga to Lake Okeechobee, and thence a broad canal leads west ward to the Caloosahatchee River. Okeechobee has fallen two feet, and 4, 000 miles of rich lands have been reclaimed fbr the cultivation of sugar and fruit, for which the climate seems peculiarly adapted. The State contains 1,200 clear lakes, which agree ably diversify its otherwise monotonous scenery. Many of them cover more than 50 square miles each, like Chipola and Miccosukee, Apopka and Kis simmee, George and Tohopekaliga. The Climate varies, from that of North Florida, with a temperature ranging from 980 to 190, to that of the central counties, 100° to 250, and of South Florida, 960 to 30°, while the temperature of the latter shows marked inequalities, Key West being several de grees cooler than Punta Rassa, a long way to the northward. The prolonged heats of ¦ South Florida are perilous to unacclimated persons, and especially to those with a tendency to malarial and typhoid fevers, who should keep north of 290 from March until November. Febrile and bilious patients should avoid Florida. The winters are distinguished by fre quent rains, especially on the Gulf side, and by occasional light frosts in North and Central Florida, sometimes resulting disastrously for the orange groves. The climate is in the main remarkably equable and healthy, except near the wet lands of the south. It has been said that the Florida year is made up of eight months of summer and four months of warm weather. The summer temperature is more even than that of the North. The cool and salty sea-breezes blow clear across the peninsula during the day, and at night the returning Gulf winds blow from the westward. North of 290 the climate resembles that of Algiers, Sicily, Greece, Cyprus, Syria and Armenia. The winters are like the Indian summers ,,, , : 1Ht ,,,,,,, A FLORIDA BICYCLE. PACKING AND SHIPPING INDIAN RIVER THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 17 1 of the North. Mrs. Stowe pronounced the St. -John's country "a child's Eden." The winter climate is singu larly dry and healthful, and resembles that of Southern Cali fornia, without its dust. It is warmer on the Atlantic coast than along the Gulf, owing to the Gulf Stream, which hugs the shore from Biscayne Bay to Jupiter Inlet. The climates of Florida cannot be described in a paragraph, for they show wide differences, even between points so near as Jacksonville and Palatka, and still more between the Tallahassee country and the sub-tropical South. Among Hie ailments benefited by a season in Florida are consumption, phthisis, brain-exhaustion, dyspepsia, nervous prostration, rheumatism, and throat and bronchial troubles. The health-seeker must be careful not to return too early in the season to the cold Northland. Florida is divided into three sec tions, as to its soil : (1) the oak, hick ory and pine uplands in the northwest, covering 2,300 square miles of fairly good red- loam, brown-loam, and pine-ridge lands, with noble trees and small crops ; (2) the long-leaf- pine lands of north and central Florida, the high rolling region of dark sandy loam (with its groups of beautiful lakes, high-arched forests, and rising villages), the water-soaked flat pine-lands toward the coasts, and the verdant and fertile hammocks or swamp-surrounded knolls, crowned with oranges, live-oaks, pal- mettoes and cypresses ; and (3) the pitch-pine and alluvial lands of the south, where prairies and savannas alternate with flat woods and swamps, a rich soil, adapted to coffee, rice, sugar-cane, guavas, pineapples and bananas. The best pine-lands have a dark vegetable mould, on deep chocolate-colored sandy and limy loam, apparently inexhaustible. The second-rate pine-lands are high and rolling, healthy and well-watered, heavily timbered, and with good natural pasturage. About 25,000,000 acres are covered with woods, nearly three fourths of which is the valuable pitch-pine, the rest including pine, oak, sweet-gum, royal palm, bay-laurel, magnolia, cedar, beech, mahogany, satin-wood, lignum-vite, green ebony, mangrove, cork-tree and olive — in all 200 species of trees. Many large saw-mills in West Florida are devoted to getting out the pitch (or Georgia) pine lumber. Live-oak, for ship building, is a large product of the northeast ; and western Florida finds profit in tar, rosin, and pitch, and distilling turpentine. Lumbering is the foremost industry of the State, and yields $20,000,000 a year. The immense levels of Florida are broken only in the north west, by a few hills of 300 feet 1 in height. On the whole peninsula there is no eminence equalling 100 feet. The land on these vast levels is ex ceedingly rich, for the most pant, the chief diffi culty being in clearing it. The Farm-Products of the State include yearly 4,500,000 bushels of corn, 600,000 bushels of oats, 1,300,000 pounds of rice, 1,000,000 gal lons of molasses, 1,500 hogsheads of sugar, with tea and coffee, flax and hemp, barley and hops, Jacksonville : Florida sub-tropical exposition, peas and beans. It bears but little wheat or hay. 172 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KEY WEST I MARINE HOSPITAL. The cotton crop is 60, 000 bales, valued at 1 $4,000,000, and including much Sea-Island | cotton. The northeastern counties send ship loads of early vegetables and berries to the I Northern cities. The tobacco industry, after many years of neglect, is now assuming great proportions, especially in the rich Suwannee- River country, and broad areas have been J planted with the best of Cuba and Sumatra j seed. The yearly product now reaches nearly ' $700,000, and increases every season. There are 50 varieties of oranges cultivated here, the Florida fruit holding the preeminent rank over all the oranges of the world. Fully 10,000 square miles are adapted to this delicious fruit, and 100,000 acres are in orange-groves ; and already the yearly crop reaches 2, 250,000 boxes (150 in a box). About $10,000,000 is invested in the orange-groves, and the yearly product is valued at nearly $2,000,000. The St. -John's and Halifax-River regions are perfectly adapted to this fine fruit. The oranges grow on graceful straight gray-barked trees, from 15 to 30 feet high, with large shining leaves and delicate white and fragrant blossoms. The line of migration of the orange has been from southeastern Asia to Syria and Spain ; and the cavaliers of the latter country brought it to Florida. It is raised largely in 21 counties, the main product coming from Lake, Marion, Putnam, Orange and Volusia. The choicest fruit is the juicy and thin-skinned variety growing along the richly fertile shores of the Indian River, Linder the intimate warmth of the Gulf Stream. The grape-fruit grows more easily than the orange, and hangs in clusters (whence its name). The shaddock is a larger and coarser fruit, weighing from three to five pounds, and shaped like a pumpkin. It is not much eaten. Besides the cocoanuts and pineapples of the Keys, Florida produces lemons and limes, grapes and dates, guavas and citrons, tamarinds and pomegranates, figs and olives, pears and apples, peaches and quinces. Both yellow and red bananas are grown, 1,000 plants to the acre, in rich moist soil. The Geology of peninsular Florida tells that it is founded on coral reefs, upon which Vicksburg limestone was deposited, followed by sand, pebbles and clay. The formations are so recent that they contain few valuable minerals, except the shell-limestone (coquina) of St. Augustine, and the Tampa and Manatee marls. Ocala has large lime-kilns. Brown lignite occurs on the Suwanee and Blackwater. The limestone strata are full of caverns, through some of which flow crystal streams, occasionally breaking out on the surface of the ground in great " boiling springs. " Elsewhere occur the conical hollows called "sinks," sometimes covering many acres, with running water visible at the bottom. The Wakulla Spring is 400 feet wide, crystalline and ice-cold, and forming a navigable river. Silver Spring is 600 feet across, and its efflux is a navigable stream 1 50 feet wide. Blue Spring pours a flood of clear blue-tinted water into the Withlacoochee, from a bowl 70 feet across and 40 feet deep. The Green- Cove, and other springs are of similar form and proportions. Florida phosphate rock was discovered in small quantities at various points about the year 1885, and in 1889 Dunn, Voight and Snowden found the great 'D1 . „„„,,,,„„ „,,., Mi,,lnAT1 nKr„ GAINESVILLE : EAST FLORIDA SEMINARY. THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 173 DUNNELLON : DUNNELLON CO. 'S PHOSPHATE BEDS. and invaluable deposits at Dunnellon. The im portance of these finds was instantly seen, and vast sums have been invested in their development. The two chief fields are along the Gulf, for 60 miles; and in the Withlacoochee region, where this mineral deposit, so valuable for the sandy soil of Florida, is easily procured, in inexhausti ble bars and beds. The Dunnellon mines arc in the latter region, and have already sent out many tons of phosphatic material, mainly to Europe, where it is highly prized for fertilizing purposes. Florida phosphate rock is of a creamy tint, very soft when first dug, and containing from 5 to 40 per cent, of phosphate impregnating the limestone or sandstone. The Dunnellon rock has shown in analysis 80 per cent, of phosphate of lime, on dry basis, and the fertil izers made from it do not revert, but show a high percentage of soluble after being kept some time. The Bradley Fertilizer Company, of Boston, has a con trolling interest in the Dunnellon property, and is the general agent for its sale. Government. — The governor is elected by the people for four years. The Legislature contains 32 four-years' senators and 68 two- years' representatives. The judiciary includes three justices of the Supreme Court ; the seven circuit courts ; the county courts and justices; and local criminal courts. Since 1880 the State finances have been redeemed ; railways have been extended, and many new towns founded ; and the orange- culture and the fisheries have been developed amazingly. The State Capitol, at Tallahassee, is a massive and roomy structure, built by the Territorial Government in 1834. The militia of Florida is composed of the Florida State Troops, enrolled in three battalions, of ten infantry and two artillery companies and 500 men. They have annual encampments, that for 1887 having been at Pablo Beach, and that for 1888 near Pensacola. There are also 15 detached volun teer companies of infantry (seven of them colored), reporting to the Adjutant-General of Florida. The territorial militia numbers 48,000 men. The State Penitentiary contains 320 convicts, more than three fourths being colored men, and most of their crimes having been against property. The prisoners are kept in a stockade near Monticello, and employed in farm-labor. The Florida Insane Asylum, in the old United-States arsenal at Chattahoochee, has 250 inmates, mostly whites. The Institution for Deaf, Dumb and Blind Youths is at St. Augustine. Education. — Florida spends $500,000 a year (five times as much as in 1880) for its schools, whose efficiency is advancing continually. One fourth of the schools are for colored children, and one fourth of the teachers are negroes. The State normal colleges were founded in 1887. The one at DeFuniak Springs is attended by 60 white students ; the one at Tallahassee has 52 colored students. The Florida Chautauqua has beautiful grounds and many buildings, and gives a month of lectures and studies, readings and concerts. It is at De Funiak Springs, a. deep and crystalline circular lakelet, without outlet or inlet, 270 feet above and 20 miles from the Gulf, and surrounded by fragrant forests of pitch-pine. The De Funiak waters and KEY w DE LAND : JOHN B. STETSON UNIVERSITY. i74 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PENSACOLA : FORT PICKENS. climate have effected many cures, and are highly esteemed in Florida. The Congregationalists founded Rollins College, at Winter Park, in 1885, and it now has four build ings, on the shore of Lake Virginia. John B. Stetson University begun as DeLand Academy in 1883, and became a Baptist school in 1887. It is named in honor of a well-known Philadelphia philanthropist, who has given it large sums of money. The University is at the pleasant town of De Land. The Methodist Episcopal Church South founded the Florida Conference Col lege, at Leesburg, in 1886; the Methodist Episcopal Church founded the St. -John's Con ference College, at Orange City, in 1887 ; the Christians founded Orange College, at Starke, in 1883. The Legislature of 1851 ordered that "two seminaries of learning shall be established, one upon the east, the other upon the west, side of the Suwanee River. " For many years these were the only public high-schools in Florida. The East-Florida Seminary is at Tal lahassee ; the Seminary West of the Suwanee River is at Gainesville. They are military and normal institutions, with about " - ? 120 students in both. Florida Uni- r i-1i^^»— r>-^^». - '-_ versity was organized in 1883, with key west : ST. AUGUSTINE : FORT MARION. the West-Florida Seminary as its literary department, and the Talla hassee College of Medicine and Surg ery, as a professional school ; but it endured only for a short season. The State Agri cultural College is at Lake City, and furnishes a free collegiate course in literature, farming and military science to 80 young Floridians. The Cookman Institute is a normal and Biblical school for colored people, with 170 pupils, maintained by the Methodist Episco pal Church, at Jacksonville. The Baptists have a similar school, at Live Oak ; and the Congregationalists opened the Florida Normal and Industrial College, near Lake City, in 1886. Florida has 275,000 church attendants. The Baptists lead the field, with 400 churches and 28,731 members. The Methodists have 19,000, the Catholics 11,000, the Presby terians 2, 500, and the Episcopalians 9, 500. The pioneer in Florida journalism was The Floridian, founded at Tallahassee in 1828, and still in existence. The State now has eleven daily newspapers and above 100 weeklies. There are two papers published at Key West in the Spanish language ; the American paper being the daily Equator-Democrat. National Works. — Fort Marion, at St. Au gustine, is a grand gray polygon, with a dry moat 40 feet wide. It was built in 1737-66, by Mexican convicts, part of the works having been erected as early as 1565. The dark dungeons, gray barbican, dusky passages and sea-viewing ramparts are visited st. augustine : monument to dade's command. THE STATE OF FLORIDA. '75 ST. AUGUSTINE : THE ALCAZAR. by bevies of wondering tourists. There is no garrison. St. -Francis Barracks, also at St. Augustine, are occupied by United-States troops. Fort Clinch, near Fernandina, has been abandoned for some years. Fort Taylor, at Key West, is a casemented penta gonal brick structure, erected at a cost of $1,250,000, and mounting 200 guns. There are also martello-towers on the island. The garrison was with- ^_ drawn long ago. Fort Jefferson, on Garden Key, the largest of the Dry Tor- tugas, is an enormous and powerful fortification of brick, enclosing nine acres of lawns and palm- *"]jy trees, oleanders and roses. It was begun in 1 846, to be the military key of the Gulf, and is said to have cost $30,000,000, all its materials having been brought from New York. The officers' quarters and barracks are the best in America. During the Secession War this fortress became a National military prison. Since 1878 it has remained ungarrisoned, but a battalion has recently been ordered hither. Nearly three miles distant, across a fairy-land forest of submerged corals, rise the snow-white sands of Loggerhead Key. Fort Jefferson is 71 miles from Key West. The entrance to Pensacola is defended by Fort McRae and Fort Pickens, half 'a league apart, with Fort Barrancas two miles above and facing down the channel. The first two have been abandoned. They are nearly half a century old, and endured terrific bombardments during the Secession War. Pensacola has an antique Navy Yard, very little used of late years ; and there is a Naval Station at Key West. At night the flashes from 36 light-houses sparkle along the Florida coast and Keys, and nearly 60 on the long St. -John's River. Chief Cities. — Jacksonville, 15 miles from the ocean, on a bend of the St. -John's River, is the metropolis of Florida, with large fruit-packing interests and grain trade, and some manufactures ; and entertains nearly 80,000 guests every winter season. It has a large ocean-commerce, with wharves lining the river-front for miles. The broad avenues and suburban shell-roads are lined with live-oaks and fragrant flow ers, and afford pleasant drives. St. Augustine, with its quaint Spanish lanes and balconied buildings, crumbl- __^^inggates and castle, and ST. AUGUSTINE THE PONCE DE LEON. noble magnolias, palms and oleanders, is the oldest city in the United States, and has the most costly and magnificent hotels in the world. Two of these, the Ponce de Leon and the Alcazar, cost $5,000,000, and are massively built of shell concrete, in semi-Saracenic Spanish-Renaissance architecture, with towers, casinos, and courtyards. The Hotel Cordova is a third magnificent Moresque structure. St. Augustine also possesses the most elaborate modern Pompeian villa in the world, designed by a British architect, with atrium, trichnia, exedra, bibliotheca and solarium. The new Presbyterian and Methodist churches are among the finest pieces of architecture in the South. On the Plaza de la Constitucion stands the old slave-market; and the Huguenot Cemetery, the graves of Maj. Dade's command, the old convents and churches, the many attractive and interesting drives, and the yachting in the adjacent waters, furnish a. great variety of interest for visitors to the American Riviera. ST. AUGUSTINE : THE PONCE DE LEON. ST. AUGUSTINE : CATHEDRAL AND SLAVE-MARKET. 176 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Tallahassee, the capital, is purely a Southern inland city, famous for its flowers and its delightful society, and old-time traditions, and near the old Spanish fort of San Luis. The city stands on a hill 250 feet high, and overlooks many leagues of pine-forests, amid which rises the mysterious smoke of Wakulla. Pensacola, another old Spanish colony, has a noble harbor of 200 square miles, with a large export trade in lumber and fish. Fernan- dina is a pros- a perous old sea-port, exporting lumber and naval stores, with one of the best landlock- fl ed harbors on the Atlantic coast, and a capital winter climate. A shell road leads out two miles to the firm and shining sands of Amelia Beach, twenty miles long, with hotels and cottages, and the best of surf-bath ing. The Mallory line of steam ships runs from Fernandina to New York. Palatka stands on a pleas ant plateau, at the head of steam ship navigation, 96 miles up the St. -John's, and in a rich orange country. It is an im portant supply-depot and headquarters for travellers. Tampa, a very ancient little city, of Spanish origin, near Tampa Bay, is attaining importance for its cigar-factories, and its commerce with the West Indies. The Tampa-Bay Hotel is one of the most magnificent pleasure resorts in the Union, among the orange and palm groves and live-oaks along the Hillsborough River. Cedar Keys is one of the chief steamship ports of the Gulf coast, with a large trade in sponges and oysters, fish and turtles. The Railroads of Florida have developed their lines rapidly since the war, and have perfected their northern connections, so that Pullman vestibuled trains run from Jacksonville to New York in 30 hours, and to Cincinnati in 28 hours. The Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad runs southwest 156 miles, from Fernandina to Cedar Keys ; west 232 miles, from Jacksonville to the Chattahoochee River (where it connects with the Louisvillle & Nashville line); and south from Waldo to Tampa, 159 miles; with branches to Tavares (for Sanford and Orlando) and St. Mark's. The Jacksonville, Tampa & Key- West Railroad ascends the St. -John's River to Enterprise, and ends at Titusville, the metro polis of the Indian-River country. The Orange-Belt line runs southwest 157 miles from Sanford to St. Petersburg, on Tampa Bay. The Florida Southern, South Florida, and other lines traverse long distances of the lower peninsula. The Plant system includes a large part of the Florida lines. The Atlantic Coast Line runs superb trains from Boston and New York through to Florida. Steamboats run daily from Jacksonville to Sanford in 18 hours; and smaller steamers run thence to Lake Harney. Another line runs from Palatka to Welaka, on the St. -John's, and thence 200 miles up the Ocklawaha River. A favorite tourist-route lies along the beautiful semi-tropical lagoons of the eastern coast, from Ormond-on-the- Halifax, or from Daytona, along the sparkling green waters ( the Halifax River, with sea-beaches and light-houses on one side, and pleasant embowered villages on the other. Belov Mosquito Inlet, the steamboats enter Hillsborough Lagoon, and thence pass into Indian River by a canal at the Haul- over. Here they visit the maritime Titusville and the beau tiful pleasure-resort at Rockledge and Jupiter. The most southerly railroad in the United States runs from Jupiter to Lake Worth, whose little steamboats visit several villages, the luxurious winter-homes of rich Northern gentlemen, ST. AUGUSTINE : TREASURY STREET. HISTORY. The aborigines of Geor gia were the Cherokees, with 6,000 warriors, occupying the highlands, north of 340 (the line of Elberton, Ath ens and Marietta) ; and the various tribes of the Mus cogee or Creek Confedera tion, numbering 15,000 per sons in Georgia, south of 340. In the year 1540 De Soto and his 600 Spaniards marched from the Ocklokonee to the Ocmulgee, and to Silver Bluff, on the Savannah, 25 miles below Augusta, where they abode for some days. The army ascended the Savannah Valley to Franklin County and Mt. Yonah, and traversed the Alleghanies, by Coosa- wattee and Chiaha(Rome), entering Alabama by the Coosa. Everywhere they sought gold, and 20 years later Tristan de Luna and 300 Spanish soldiers marched from Pensacola to Cherokee Georgia, and opened mines which were worked for over a century. The foundation of Georgia is due to the benevolence of Gen. James Edward Oglethorpe, a veteran of Prince Eugene of Savoy's staff, and afterwards a member of Parliament, who established here a place where insolvents, prisoners for debt, and other unfortunates might begin the world anew, and where religious freedom should be accorded (except to Catholics). Parliamentary grants of ^180,000 were made to further these objects ; and Oglethorpe sailed from Eng land in the Anne, and reached Savannah (by way of Char leston), February 1, 1733, with 116 immigrants in his com pany. The Creeks received these new neighbors hospitably, and they soon spread out over Darien, Augusta, St. Simon's Island and other localities. To this haven of peace came colonies of Hebrews, Moravians and Lutherans, and many Bavarians and Scottish Highlanders. In 1736 John and Charles Wesley came over with parties of Methodists ; and two years later George Whitefield founded the Bethesda Home, near Savannah. When the war broke out between England and Spain, in 1739, Gen. STATISTICS Settled at . . Savannah. Settled in . . Founded by . . , Englishmen. One of the 13 Original States. Population, in i860, . 1,057,286 In 1870, . . 1,184,109 In 1880, . .. 1,5.12,180 White, 816,906 Colored, . , 725,274 American born, ¦ Ti53i<2i6 Foreign-born, 10, 564 Males, 762,981 779. 199 In 1890 (U. S. census), 1.833,353 White, 973. 462 Colored, . . 863,716 Voting Population, 321,716 Vote for Harrison (1888), 40,496 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 100,400 Net State dett (1890), $8,065,221 Real Property, . S 192,000,000 Personal Property, y 165,000,000 Area (square miles), . 59.475 U. S. Representatives, 10 Militia (Disciplined), . 4.5^3 Counties, Post-offices, . . 1,911 Railroads (miles), . . 4.100 Manufactures (yearly), §37,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), 26,000,000 Farm Product s(yearly ^112,000,000 School Buildings, . . 8,000 Average School-Attendance, 226,000 Newspapers, 257 Latitude, . 3o°2i' to 250 N. Longitude, . . 8o°48' to 8 1^40' N. Mean Temperature (Atl inta), 61. i° Mean Temperature (Savannah) 65. 50 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- ULATIONS. Atlanta, . 65.533 Savannah, 43,189 Augusta, . 33,300 Macon, ",74° Columbus, I7.3°3 Athens, . 8,639 Brunswick, . 8,459 Lome, 6.95o Americus, 6.335 Griffin, 4,465 the British of 70,000 fleets and AUGUSTA : SOLDIERS1 HOME. 178 KING'S HANDBOOK OP THE UNITED STATES. Oglethorpe led 1,000 troops against St. Augustine, and was beaten off. In 1742 Don Manuel de Monteano attacked Frederica with 50 vessels and 5,000 men, Florida and Cuban in fantry, Spanish marines and Italic dragoons, and was defeated by Gen. Oglethorpe and 652 Georgians, with heavy loss. But two causes worked against the success of the colony : the onerous military duties demanded, which caused many to migrate to the Carolinas, and the prohibition of slavery. The latter was removed in 1750. The trustees of the colony were its law-makers (without pay), until 1752, when a governor and council were appointed by King. In 1775 Gov. Sir James Wright fled, and Georgia, then a Province people, sent delegates to the Continental Congress. In 1778-79 British armies captured Savannah, Augusta and Sunbury, repulsing the assault of Lincoln and D'Estaing on the first-named town. After Charleston. fell, Georgia was the scene of a bitter guerilla warfare, until Gen. Greene pacified the State. The territory of Georgia originally included the region be tween the Savannah and the Altamaha ; and in 1 763, after the wars with France and Spain, it was extended south to St. Mary's |1- and west to the Mississippi River. In 1803 the State ceded to ^ the Republic 100,000 square miles, west of the Chattahoochee, and out of this imperial domain Alabama and Mississippi were formed. The Creeks ceded to the United States, by the treaty of Fort Wilkinson, in 1802, the greater part of southwestern Georgia. In 1838 the Cherokees were transported to the West. When the Secession movement began, in i860, Stephens and Johnson and other patriotic men strenuously resisted the revolutionists under Toombs and Cobb. For a time it seemed as if the State would remain true to the Union, and the brave mountaineers of Cherokee Georgia never abandoned their loyalty, but caused much trouble to the Confederate authori ties. Yet when the question came up for a vote of the people, 50,243 chose secession, to 37,123 voting for the Union. The chief events of the Secession War on the Georgia coast were the occupation of Big Tybee Island by DuPont's Federal fleet (November 25, 1861), and the surrender of Fort Pulaski (April 11, 1862), after a tremendous bombardment from Gen. Q. A. Gillmore's batteries on Tybee Island, which levelled much of its walls. DuPont cap tured and garrisoned Darien, St. Simon's Island, Brunswick and St. Mary's, and destroyed the Confederate cruiser Nashville in the Ogeechee River. The monitor Weehawken cap tured the Atlanta, a Confederate ironclad, below Savannah. In the autumn of 1863, Thomas's and McCook's Federal corps entered northwestern Georgia, over Lookout Mountain, and flanked the Confederate army out of Chattanooga, compelling its retreat down the Western & Atlantic Railroad. Then suddenly Bragg and Longstreet turned, and threw themselves with desperate fury upon Rosecrans's advancing forces, at Chickamauga, and defeated them, in a three-days' engagement, driving them back to Chattanooga. In this costly battle, H2,ooo men were engaged, and one fourth of them met with death or wounds. Some regiments lost over 60 per cent, of their men. Viewing the numbers engaged, and the time, Chickamauga was by far the bloodiest battle of modern times. In May, 1864, Sherman advanced from Chattanooga, and after heavy fighting at Resaca, New Hope Church, Kennesaw Mountain, and many other points, pressed Johnston's Confeder ate army beyond the Chattahoochee, and besieged Atlanta, which was defended by Hood. Within a month the two armies lost 20,000 men about this city, and then Hood retreated and Sherman occupied the place, early in September. November 15, 1864, Sherman burned Atlanta, and began the famous "March to the Sea," with 62,000 men and 65 cannon, spread in a width of forty miles, and easily repulsing the attacks of the enemy. Macon, Milledgeville, Millen and other august a: 01 u en i,-,wh< THE STATE OF GEORGIA. i79 GRAND CHASM, TUGALOO RIVER. towns yielded to this irresistible army, and finally Hazen stormed Fort McAllister, and Hardee was compelled to evacuate Savannah. Sherman sent to President Lincoln this triumphant message : "I beg to present you as a Christmas present the city of Savannah, with 150 guns and plenty of ammunition, also about 25,000 bales of cotton." Three weeks later Sher man left a garrison at Savannah and started on his victorious march through the Carolinas. For a few weeks Georgia possessed no government except that of the United-States generals, and then James Johnson became provisional gover nor. In April, 1865, Wilson's Federal cavalry swept over Columbus and West Point, and near Irwinville, May loth, captured the fugitive Jefferson Davis. In i860 Georgia had 462, 198 slaves and 3,500 free negroes; in 1880 it had 725,135 free colored people. Under the Reconstruction Acts of 1867, Georgia was placed in General Pope's military command, and the next year the new constitution was framed, and a governor inaugurated, upon which the control of the State passed to the civil authorities. The expulsion of all the colored members of the Legislature, a few weeks later, compelled the National Government to intervene, excluding Georgians from Congress, and placing Gen. Terry in practical command. In spite of the devastation of war, the State gained 127,432 in population between i860 and 1870. Since 1880, a rapid and healthy development has gone forward, and the cottc* shipments of Atlanta, Rome and Columbus, the cotton-mills of Augusta and Atlanta, the glass-works of Tallapoosa and many other industries have risen to commanding proportions. The Name of the State is thus derived : "The projected colony was called Georgia in honor of the reigning monarch of England [George II.], who had graciously sanctioned a charter so liberal in its provisions, and granted a territory so extensive and valuable for the encouragement of the plantation." It is now often called The Empire State of the South, in allusion to its rapid and enterprising industrial development. The Arms of Georgia, adopted in 1 799, show an arch inscribed with the word Con stitution, and upheld by three pillars, representing the legislative, judicial and executive departments. Under the arch stands a man with a drawn sword, typifying the military power ready to defend the Constitution. The Governors of Georgia up to the foundation of the State government numbered 24. The State Governors have been: Geo. Walton, 1789-90; Edw. Telfair, 1790-3 ; Geo. Matthews, 1793-6; Jared Irwin, 1796-8; Jas. Jackson, 1798-1801 ; David Emanuel, (acting), 1801 ; Josiah Tattnall, 1801-2; John Milledge, 1802-6; Jared Irwin, 1806-13 and 1815-7; Peter Farly, 1813-5 ; Wm. Raburn, 1817-9; Matthew Talbot (acting), 1819; John Clark, 1819-23; George M. Troup, 1823-7; John Forsyth, 1827-9; Geo. R. Gilmer, 1829-31 and 1837-9; Wilson Lumpkin, 1831-5 ; Wm. Schley, 1835-7; Chas. J. McDonald, 1839-43; Geo. W. Crawford, 1843-7; Geo. W. B. Towns, 1847-51 ; Howell Cobb, 1851-3 ; Herschell V. Johnson, 1853-7; Joseph E. Brown, 1857-65; Jas. Johnson (provisional), 1865; Chas. J. Jenkins, 1865-9 ! Rufus B. Bullock, 1869-72 ; Jas. Mil ton Smith, 1872-7; Alfred H. Colquitt, 1877-82; Alex. H. Stephens, 1883; Henry D. McDaniel, 1883-6; John| B. Gordon, 1886-90; W. J. Northen, 1890-2. Geography. — Georgia is the largest State east of the Mississippi, a massive and compact domain of five sides, with its centre near Jeffersonville, which is also the centre of the colored population of the Republic. It lies in the latitude of Algiers, Asia Minor, Persia, Tibet, and Arizona. When the sun rises here it is noon in Switzerland, sundown in China, and midnight on the BRUNSWICK : IN THE PINES. i8o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KENNESAW MOUNTAIN. Pacific . Georgia is divided into three great sections, Lower, Middle and Upper, with widely different climates and products. Lower Georgia includes more than half the State, with an area of 35,000 square miles, covering the Pine-barrens and sand-hills, the Swamp Belt and the Sea Islands. Here also is the dark and impenetrable Okefinokee Swamp, 180 miles around, a region of dead pools and lonely islands, inhabited by bears and wildcats, and huge alli gators and other reptiles. The inner recesses of this vast jungle have never been visited. The peninsulas of high and arable land pushed into the swamp are called cow-houses, because the planters used to pasture cattle upon them, with a man at each isthmus to guard them. These places are inhabited by a primitive and hospitable people, who go out occasionally to buy salt, coffee, and tobacco. Lower Georgia includes the sea-coast, 128 miles long, or, count ing the sounds and islands, 480 miles. The Sea Islands cover 500 square miles, and are overgrown with great live-oak and palmetto §§j woods. The cultivation of cotton, once so "7 JSS prominent among these unhealthy lowlands, has now greatly fallen off. Jekyl Island, where the last cargo of slaves brought into the United States was landed, from the Wanderer, is owned by a club of Northern gentlemen whose wealth aggregates $500,000,000. It is one of the largest game-preserves in America, abounding in pheasants andjquail, wild turkeys and deer, and has a costly club-house and admirable roads, with a sea-fronting beach thirteen miles long. Cumberland Island is 30 miles long, with magnificent forests of oaks, palmettos and palms. It was in olden times occupied by the Dungeness estate of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, of the Revolutionary army. This house has been replaced by the beautiful mansion of Mrs. Thomas Carnegie, of Pittsburgh. Light-Horse Harry Lee was buried at Cumberland, and Count Pulaski on St. Helen's Island. Among the other islands are Ossabaw and St. Simon, Sapelo and St. Catherine. The sounds of St. Andrew and St. Simon, Doboy and Sapelo, St. Catherine and Ossabaw have inlets from the sea, and are navigable for hundred-ton ves sels. The harbors of Savannah, Darien, Brunswick and St. Mary's have from 14 to 17 feet of water at low tide. The foreign export trade exceeds $20,000,000 a year, nearly all being cotton and naval stores, shipped from Savannah. The coasting-trade shipment is largely in excess of this, and includes early fruits and vegetables, fish and lumber, cotton and naval stores. Most of the domestic shipments are made from Brunswick and St. Mary's, the other two ports of entry in Georgia. Georgia has a mercantile fleet of 133 vessels, of 36,000 tons. These waters are famous for their fisheries, of pompano, red-snappers, sea-trout, Spanish mackerel and green turtle. The extensive Savannah and Ogeechee fisheries send the first shad to the North. For a score of miles inland the land is about twelve feet above the sea. Then it mounts up to 80 feet, which average elevation it retains for 20 miles farther inland, rising there to 150 feet. In the next hundred miles, up to the falls of the rivers, the general height in creases to 570 feet. The Hill Country, or Middle Georgia, includes an area of 1 5, 000 square miles, between the falls of the rivers and the foot-hills of 1,000 feet high. The southern part is a broad plateau, breaking towards the north into parallel ranges of high hills, and rich in secluded valleys. The soil is a red loam, very much impoverished by long and exhaustive cultivation. Upper Georgia, otherwise known as the Moun tain Region, or Cherokee Georgia, is a country STONE MOUNTAIN. TOCCOA FALLS. THE STATE OF GEORGIA. of great landscape beauty, covering 10,000 square miles of the Appalachian Range and its higher foot-hills. The Blue Ridge of I Virginia and the Carolinas enters the State at its northwestern corner, and ends abruptly in the Atlanta region. In and near the odd angle of Georgia pushed up between the two Carolinas occur the noblest crests of this range : Sitting Bull (5,046 feet) and Mona CS!°39). as the tw0 peaks of Nantihala are called ; Mount Enotah, or the Brasstown Bald (4,797); and the Rabun Bald (4,718), not far from Rabun Gap. This region also contains the beautiful Tallulah and Toccoa Falls, and other famous cascades ; and many a charming valley, like Rabun and Nachoochee. The famous Nicojack Cave, in the Raccoon Mountains, is entered through a portal 160 feet wide and 60 feet high. The stream issuing thence may be ascended for three miles by boats, to a waterfall. Stone Mountain is one of the largest masses of granite in the world, and attains a height of 2,220 feet. Twenty miles west of the Blue Ridge rises the Cohutta range, 3, 000 feet high, continuous with the Unaka Mountains of Tennessee, and fading away in the Dugdown Mountain of Alabama. The northwestern cor ner of Georgia is occupied by Lookout and Sand Mountains, and their great plateaus, hallowed by the best blood of the Republic, during Sherman's and Johnston's campaign. The rivers of Georgia are grouped, in the Atlantic, Gulf and Tennessee systems. The first includes the Savannah, flowing south southeast 450 miles from the confluence of the Tugaloo and Kee- wee, in the Blue Ridge, and navigable for ships to Savannah, 18 miles ; for steamboats to Augusta, 291 ; and (passing around the falls by the canal) for 150 miles farther (to Petersburg or Andersonville) by poleboats. Below Augusta many rich cotton plantations line the shores ; and farther down are broad rice-fields, succeeded by weird swamps whose live oaks are hung with gray moss. Sloops ascend the Ogeechee for 40 miles, and keelboats go up as far as Louisville, 1 50 miles. The river is 200 miles long. The tributary river, the Cannonchee, is navigable for 50 miles. In the southeast are the Satilla and St. Mary's Rivers, each with 50 miles of sloop-navigation. The Oconee (navigable to Mil- ledgeville, the».ancient capital), and the Ocmulgee (navigable to Hawkinsville, and formerly to Macon) rise in the Blue Ridge, and flow in parallel courses for 250 miles, uniting to form the Altamaha, which reaches the sea 155 miles from their con fluence. Large vessels ascend to Darien. The Gulf system of rivers culminates in the Chat tahoochee, 450 miles long, and navigable by large steamboats for 300 miles, from the Gulf up to Columbus. This river flows from the Blue Ridge down through the gold country, forming the frontier of Georgia and Alabama from West Point to Florida, breaking into white rapids and then into valuable falls at Colum bus. At the Florida line the Flint River (navi gable 250 miles up from the Gulf, to Albany) joins the Chattahoochee, and the two form the Appa- lachicola River. The Withlacoochee and Alla- paha form the Suwanee. The Oostenaula and Etowah unite at Rome to form the Coosa ; and the Tallapoosa, another tributary of the Alabama, also rises in Georgia. The Oostenaula is navigable by steamboats from Rome, to Carter's Landing, Brunswick . lovers' live-oak. TALLULAH FALLS. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 105 miles ; and steamers ply on the Coosa from Rome to Greensport, 153 miles. In the north west rise the rivers of the Tennessee Basin, draining 1,000 square miles of blue limestone country, with many rich and beautiful valleys. Climate. — Upper Georgia has a healthy and diversified climate, 6o° in the valleys, and 500 on the The summer ter temper. heights, with frequent snows in winter, and a clear and bracing air. mean is 75. 30; the winter mean, 42. 8°. Middle Georgia has a win- ture of 47. 2°, with occasional ephemeral snows, and a summer mean of 790, with little rain and comfortably cool nights. The rich and swampy low country enjoys a delightful winter cli mate (480 to 540), but the six-months summer induces malar ial, bilious and typhoid fevers, especially in unacclimated persons. The summer mean is 81. 30. The pine-barrens are SAVANNAH : chatham-co. court-house. more healthy. The evergreen live-oaks of Georgia are famous for their excellence as ship-lumber, and grow abundantly in the southeast, finding their shipping-port at Brunswick. There are a score of other varieties of oaks ; six kinds of pines, including the valuable yellow pine ; six of hickories, the ash, chestnut, chinquapin, persimmon, haw, sweet-gum, magnolia, cypress, sycamore, tulip and other trees. Over 200,000,000 feet of lumber and timber, valued at $7,000,000, are shipped yearly. The great pine-barrens produce generously tar, pitch, tur pentine and resin, of which more than $3,000,000 worth have been shipped from Savannah and Brunswick in a1 single year, much of it to foreign ports. The enormous product of the pine-trees of Georgia, in the way of naval stores, is shipped almost entirely from Savannah, whose wharves are sometimes laden with 100,000 barrels of these articles. Great attention has been paid since the war to this trade, and a large propor tion of the turpentine and rosin used in the world passes out from the wharves of Savannah, the fore most shipping-port for naval stores. Turpentine is an oleo-resinous substance obtained from in cisions in pine-trees, and used for mixing var nishes and paints ; and rosin is its residuum after distillation, and finds its use in spap-making. The chief commercial house handling these valuable products of the forest is Peacock, Hunt & Co., of Savannah, who have an honor able distinction as the largest naval-stores factors in the world. They facilitate the course of trade by making cash advanoes to the manufacturers, and selling their goods on commis sion. This business was founded in 1877, an(l nas a capital of $500,000. It represents 150 manufacturers of naval stores, whose yearly product reaches 80,000 barrels of spirits of tur pentine and 320,000 barrels of rosin, valued at $2,500,000. Farming. — Cotton is the staple crop of the light and sandy soils of southwestern Geor gia, and also comes in great quantities from the central counties and the sandy valleys of the north. This is the third State in the product of cotton, and has sent out nearly 1,000,000 bales in a single year, including the bulk of the famous Sea-Island (or long-staple) cotton. Since the freeing of the slaves most of them have worked on the plantations on shares, vary ing from one third to one half of the crop. Corn is grown all over the State, to the extent of nearly 30,000,000 bush els a year. Wheat, oats, clover, tobacco, sorghum and pea nuts are also produced in great quantities. Before the war, rice was raised on the bottom-lands of southern Georgia to the amount of 50,000,000 pounds a year. The crop has never since then reached such figures, but is increas ing from year to year, in spite of formidable competition , v, ,,,,,,. r, , !: l;i ,,,„ Ui, from China. Sugar-cane grows freely in the lowlands. SAVANNAH \ PEACOCK, HUNT &. CO. 'S NAVAL STORES. THE STATE CF GEORGIA. 183 SLOPE MINE, DADE COUNTY! GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. Sweet potatoes form one of the chief exports, reaching 5,000,000 bushels a year.. The fruits of Middle Geor gia include the Scuppernong and Herbemont grapes, apples and pears in great variety, and luscious peaches. Fruits ripen 30 days sooner than at the North, and the truckers of the lowlands send immense quantities to New York, together with early cabbages and onions, beans and peas, potatoes and cucumbers. The low lands produce oranges and lemons, bananas and olives, figs and mulberries, and early strawberries. The Georgia fruit-crop reaches nearly $ 1 , 000, 000 in value. The watermelons of this region have long been famous as the best in the world.- Besides the vast local consumption, millions are shipped North every season. It may be noted as a singular fact that Georgia has 144,000 mules (valued at $13, 754,000) to 106,000 horses ($8,736,000). There are also 1,000,000 cattle, worth $12,500,000 ; 500,000 sheep, worth $800,000; and 1,600,000 hogs, worth $5,500,000. The Geology of Georgia shows the variegated and plastic clays and deep white sands of the Southern Drift or Quartenary period, over the Tertiary, Eocene, Miocene, and Plio cene, of the Low Country ; the cretaceous group, in the west and on the Ogeechee ; the metamorphic granites, gneisses and schists of Mid dle and Northern Georgia, north of the Augusta- Macon-Columbus line, crossed by triassic trap-dikes and slates, and containing everywhere small quan tities of gold and silver ; the Palalozoic sandstones, shales and limestones of the Blue Ridge ; and the carboniferous beds of the Northwest, Minerals. — The^Alabama coal-beds run into northwestern Georgia, covering 200 square miles, and offering vast deposits of excellent bituminous coal, much in demand at the smelting-furnaces. The chief mines are in Dade County. Providentially near the coal-beds and limestone hills occur immense de posits of red fossiliferous iron ore, covering 350 square miles. Shinbone Mountain, running for 40 miles parallel to Lookout Mountain, is rich in this valuable mineral, which extends into the Lookout and Pigeon Mountains. Other ores of iron occur in great beds in the Chattoogata and Cohutta ranges. One of the largest and most important corporations in the world-renowned "New South" is the Georgia Mining, Manufacturing and Investment Company, under the presidency of Julius L. Brown, with his father, Senator Joseph E. Brown, as Vice-President ; Franklin Weld, of Boston, General Manager ; and Elijah A. Brown, Treasurer. The headquarters are at Atlanta. The paid-up capital is $1,000,000. This corporation owns all of the stock and operates the properties of The Dade and The Castle Rock Coal Companies, with lands in Dade County, and in Alabama and Tennessee, with their connecting rail ways and coke-ovens ; The Georgia Iron & Coal Com pany, and the Bartow Iron & Manganese Company, owning immense deposits and mines of manganese and hematite iron ores, and their railroads, near Car- tersville ; the Walker Iron & Coal Company, with its great Rising-Fawn furnace, and lands on Lookout , _ , . . , . r ., ¦ , . i t-1 COKE-OVENS, DADE MINES : GEORGIA MINING, Mountain, rich in fossil iron ores and coai ; and 1 he manufacturing and investment company. RISING FAUN FURNACE I GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT COMPANY. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. HYDRAULIC MINING, BARTON COUNTY: GEORGIA MINING, MANUFACTURING AND INVESTMENT CO. Chattanooga Iron Company, with its furnace. Its two furnaces produce 160 tons of pig iron daily ; and its mines produce 160,000 tons of coal and coke a year. The total acreage of lands is about 48,000, with 22J miles of railroad. The union of so many vast and valuable properties under one control en sures a most favorable advantage for the company to cheaply produce pig iron, concentrating under one management the mining of manganese, of iron ore, of coal, and the manufacture of coke by cheap labor which the company controls. The recent development of Georgia marble com menced in 1885, since which time immense quanti ties have been quarried, and the product has been distributed all over the United States. The principal advantages that this marble has over others are unusual strength and density, conclusively shown by tests and experiments made by expert authorities. It will not absorb moisture, and consequently does not disintegrate in any climate. This fact also renders it valuable for interior decorations, as it cannot be injured by any discoloring agents. The crushing strength averages 750 tons per square foot. The Georgia Marble Company is one of the most notable industries on this continent. It represents a value of several million dollars. It owns 6,172 acres of solid beds of marble, at Tate, in Pickens County ; and here there are five large quarries, equipped with the best mod ern machinery, and proVlucing 2,000 cubic feet of marble daily. Other features of this great plant are the three finely-equipped mills for saw ing marble ; eight steam derricks ; a travelling derrick 500 feet long, capable of storing 200,000 cubic feet of stone ; 30 steam machines for cutting marble in quarries; 16 steam boilers; complete machine-shops; 50 buildings, including tenement-houses ; and a standard-gauge railway of nearly seven miles, with loco motives and equipments. The marble is produced in many different tints, as white, white with dark spots and veins, dark mottled and variegated blue, pink, salmon, orange and olive. This beautiful material is sent all over the United States, and used not only for the walls of buildings and their interior decoration in floors and wainscots, and mantels, but also for monuments and tombs, drug-counters and soda-fountains, imposing stones, butchers' and fish-mongers' tables, and many other ornamental and industrial purposes. It is a true crystalline mar ble, pre-eminent in strength, and showing a wonder ful variety of colors. One of its chief virtues is an in vincible non-absorbent quality, and this ability to resist all liquids gives it a peculiar value for public buildings. The deposits already bored and tested are sufficient in quantity to supply the world for centuries. Already the Creole, Etowah, Kennesaw, and Cherokee marbles of this company are widely in use through out the Union, especially in banks, hotels, and office- buildings, besides for the exteriors of some of the finest houses in the country. The American Marble Company, at Marietta, was tate ; Georgia marble co.'s quarries. formed by Boston capitalists to develop the Georgia TATE : GEORGIA MARBLE COMPANY WATERMELON CULTURE. THE STATE OF GEORGIA marbles and other mineral properties, and for the finishing of the marbles. Work was commenced on the plant in February, 1885, an(i the mill was started October 1st of the same year. There are a number of different colors in the Georgia marbles, ranging from pure white to almost black, besides many shades of pink, gray, mottled, serpentine green and other colors. The green, or Verd Antique, is considered to be the most beautiful marble produced in this country. This quarry is owned ex clusively by the American Marble Company, and is situated at Too Nigh, on the Marietta & North-Georgia Railroad. This marble is used principally for decorative purposes, such as wainscoting, mantels, counters, furniture-work and pedestals, and for such purposes it cannot be surpassed. It is superior in beauty to any similar foreign marble, and owing to its great strength, it can be used for making as large slabs and columns as can be handled, without showing seams and cracks. The prominent architects and contractors who have seen columns and slabs finished from it predict an immense demand as soon as it is put on the market. The mills of the American Marble Company, at Marietta, Georgia, are among the largest and best equipped in the country, containing special marble-cutting machinery, the patents of which are owned by the Company. The business is growing so rapidly that their equipment and force is inadequate. Their main quarries are in Pickens and Cherokee Coun ties, Georgia, and Cherokee County, North Carolina. Gold was discovered in Habersham County in 1 83 1, and the United- States Mint at Dahlonega coined over $6,000,000 between 1837 and 1861. The town of Dahlonega stands on the gold-belt, and precious nuggets and dust are found in its streets. Hydraulic mines were once worked, and much free placer gold rewarded the treasure- seekers. The Cohutta Mountains have deposits of iron and maganese, lead, silver and gold. The State contains many other minerals, including mica and plumbago, soapstone and white and pale-green talc, asbestos and gypsum, kaolin and fire-clay, marl and phosphate, magnesia and barytes, copper and pyrites. Granite, slate and sandstone are quarried in great quantities, and diamonds, opals, rubies and other gems have been found, but in limited number, and of small value. The Government rests in a governor and executive officers elected by the people every two years. The governor appoints the commissioner of schools, and the railroad commis sioners are elected by the General Assembly. The biennially-meeting General Assembly contains 44 senators and 175 representatives, elected for two years. The Supreme Court has three justices, and there are superior and county courts, and courts of ordinary. The constitution of 1868 excludes slavery and seces sion ; makes duellists ineligible to vote or hold office ; and gives the suffrage to every male citizen of Georgia. The Capitol at Atlanta, is an imposing structure of Indiana stone, fin ished in 1888, at a cost of $862,000, the funds coming from a special tax. The Georgia Vol unteers form the largest militia force in the South, and include the First Regiment (Savan nah), the Second, Third, Sixth and Ninth Bat- MARIETTA : AMERICAN MARBLE COMPANY. TOO NIGH: AMERICAN MARBLE CO. 'S QUARRY. 1 86 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. talions, and 1 8 companies of infantry, eight troops of cav alry, and two batteries. The Georgia Volunteers, Colored, include the First (Savannah) and Third (Augusta) Battal ions, numbering eleven companies, and 14 unattached com panies. The military spirit runs high among the young men of Georgia, but the State is economical in the equipment of her troops. The Chatham Artillery, of Savannah, dates from 1786, and has volunteered in every war since. When Wash ington visited Savannah, he presented the company with savannah : fountain, forsyth park, two handsome bronze cannon, taken from Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown, and these venerable six-pounders are still owned by them. The colored militia companies are among the best in the Union. The police force of Savannah has the unusual organization of regular troops. The Georgia Lunatic Asylum, near Milledgeville, has 1,400 inmates (one third of them colored), with nine detached brick buildings. The Georgia Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb was opened in 1846, in a log cabin at Cave Spring. It has 84 pupils. The Methodists have orphans' homes at Decatur and Macon. The convict-camps contain over 1, 500 prisoners, nine tenths of whom are negroes. The yearly mortality, of nearly two per cent., is a terrible evidence against this system of punishment. The National Institutions in Georgia culminate in the new ten-company military post of McPherson Barracks, near Atlanta. The United-States Arsenal stands in the en virons of Augusta. Fort Pulaski is a five-sided brick work, with casements and barbette batteries and a wet ditch, isolated among the marshes and islands, 14 miles below Savan nah. It has been rebuilt and strengthened since the civil war, when it received a terrible pounding from the United-States batteries. Fort Oglethorpe is three miles from Savan nah. Both these works are ungarrisoned. There are six light-houses on the Atlantic coast and 24 lights on the Savannah River. Near Andersonville was the horrible prison-pen in which the Confederates kept 44,882 National soldiers, 13,000 of whom died here of hunger, disease, filth, vermin and despair. It was a side-hill field of 1,540 by 750 feet, surrounded by a stockade, with many sentries, and cannon pointing inward. The National Cemetery contains 13,714 graves; and another National Cemetery at Marietta enshrines the remains of 10,151 soldiers who died in the great campaigns against Atlanta. The Newspapers include 28 dailies, 195 weeklies, and 34 others. Eleven are devoted to religion, 9 to education, 6 to farming, and 5 to medicine. Prohibition, labor-reform, and woman suffrage have their local organs ; and there are several newspapers printed by and for the colored people. The Augusta Chronicle dates from 1785; the Macon Telegraph, from 1826 ; and the Columbus Enquirer, from 1828. The literary products of Georgia have been among the brightest in American history, and include Harris's Uncle Remus, Longstreet's Georgia Scenes, Thompson's Major Jones, Smith's Bill A rp, Johnston's Dukesborough Tales, Col. C. C. Jones's brilliant historical works, and the poems of Hayne, Lanier, Randall (of My Maryland), Ticknor, Wilde, Hubner and Father Ryan. The Atlanta Constitution is happily responsible for much of the prosperity of Georgia in its new developments of wealth and industry. This great journal of the people and exponent of Southern thought and progress was founded in 1868 ; and the Weekly Constitution now enjoys the largest circula tion of any weekly edition of a daily paper in the United States, being over 150,000 copies each week. One of the chief texts of this paper has always been : "If the South can keep at home the $400,000,000 received annually for the cotton crop, she will soon be rich beyond competition. As long as she sends it Atlanta : central railroad station. ATLANTA : ATLANTA CONSTITUTION. THE STATE OF GEORGIA out for the supplies that make the crop, she will remain poor. " i The enthusiasm with which the Constitution has kept this sub- \ ject before the people, and continually exploited the natural I wealth, beauty and power of the South, has been a noble factor I in the upbuilding of Georgia and its sister States. Among j the gifted writers of this paper have been Henry W. Grady, | Joel Chandler Harris (Uncle Remus), Howell, and others. The Atlanta Constitution is one of the most successful and | most prosperous newspapers in the country. Education. — There was no common-school system before the war, although certain funds were allotted to the counties, for the teaching of indigent children. The general school-law of 1868 established a very efficient system of State, county and district schools. The fund is above $800,000. The Uni versity of Georgia received its charter in 1785, and began its work in 1801. Since that time it has graduated many eminent and useful men, including Stephens, Cobb, Toombs, Hill and Johnson, 200 legislators, 26 congressmen, 60 judges, 4 governors, and 2 bishops. In all its departments it has above 1,200 students. The campus at Athens covers 37 acres of the high hills over the Oconee, besides the experi mental farm of 60 acres; and the property of the University is valued at $700,000. There are free scholarships for 3 1 5 Georgians. The University has branch colleges at Dahlonega, Thomasville, Cuth- bert and Milledgeville, devoted partly to agriculture, the mechanic arts and military tactics and exercises. The State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts occupies the Moore College on the University cam pus. The Georgia School of Technology was opened in 1888, at Atlanta, as a branch of the State University, with 150 white students. It is a school of construction and a practical manufactory, well endowed and possessing fine brick buildings. The law-school is at Athens ; the medical school at Augusta. Emory Col lege, with six buildings in an oak grove of 40 acres, on the high granite ridge of Oxford, was chartered in 1836, and pertains to the Methodist Episcopal Church, South. It has 15 instructors and 300 students, and schools of technology, law, telegraphy and design. The finest of its buildings is Seney Hall. Mercer University arose in 1838, at Penfield, and was removed to a fine plateau near Macon in 1871. It is a Baptist institution, with affiliated schools of law and theology. Hearn Institute, at Cove Springs, is its preparatory school. Shorter College, for girls, founded in 1873, nas handsome modern buildings on Shelton Hill, Rome, overlooking the Coosa and Oostenaula Valleys. The Wesleyan Female College on Encampment Hill, commanding Macon, dates from 1836, and has 300 students and over 1,200 alumnae. This is the oldest college for women in the world. It has finest buildings in the South. The Medical College of Georgia, founded at in 1829, has become a department of the University. There are three medical schools in Atlanta. The Piedmont Chau tauqua owns several hotels and scores of handsome houses, a great tabernacle seating 6,000 people, a gymnasium, a hall of philosophy and other college buildings, amid the emerald lawns, flower-beds and fountains of a beautiful park at Salt Springs, 21 miles west of Atlanta, on the Georgia Pacific route. There is another Chautauqua ATLANTA : SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY. i88 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. at Albany, in southwestern Georgia. The Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences was founded about the year 1875, in the old Gov. -Telfair mansion at Savannah, and under the care of the ancient Georgia Historical Society. The art gallery contains many valuable paintings, and is under the directorship of Carl L. Brandt, N. A. The Catholics have academies at Savannah, Washington, Macon, Augusta and Atlanta. Pio Nono College, at Macon, is now a novitiate and training-school for Jesuits. The chief institution for educating colored people is Atlanta University, opened in 1869, and now possessed of 60 acres of land and four good buildings, with collegiate, normal, industrial and preparatory schools. Its graduates are mainly engaged in teaching. Clark University, at Atlanta, is a Methodist-Episcopal school, with four fine buildings and the well-endowed and prosperous Gammon School of Theology. It has also an excellent indus trial school. The Atlanta Baptist Seminary has 146 students. The Morris-Brown College, overlooking Atlanta, was opened in 1885, having been organized by the ministers of the Afri can Methodist Episcopal Church in W^^'f^^--^'^Fr:^~T\~' Georgia. The Paine Institute, opened in Augusta in 1884, has 133 young col ored men and women, in normal, theo logical, industrial and music classes ; and Spelman Seminary, at Atlanta, has 27 instructors and over 600 colored girls, with several valuable buildings. the piedmont chautauqua, near Atlanta. The ieadmg libraries in Georgia are the State Library, 45,000 volumes; the University Library, 20,000; the Georgia Historical Society, 16,000; the Macon Public Library, 10,000; the Young Men's Library Association of Atlanta, 12,000; and Mercer University, 10,000. Chief Cities. — Savannah stands on a low bluff over the deep Savannah River, which here forms a crescent nearly a league long. It is one of the handsomest of American cities, embellished with many embowered public squares and the pine-shaded Forsyth Place, with its shell-walks and beautiful fountain (a copy of that in the Place de la Concorde, Paris). In these streets the camellias and oleanders grow as trees, and the sidewalks are overhung with orange and banana trees, myrtles and bays, magnolias and palmettos. In the suburbs is the famous Bonaventure Cemetery, roofed in by the interlacing branches of live-oaks, draped with hanging gray moss. Savannah has established a valuable system of railroads, which bring to her fine harbor the products of Georgia, Upper Florida, and much of Ala bama and Tennessee. It ships vast quantities of cotton and lumber, rice and naval stores, the yearly exports exceeding $70,000,000 in value. Regular lines of steamboats ply on the inland passages between Savannah and Fernandina, Florida ; and a line of first-class ocean- steamships runs to Baltimore and Philadelphia, New York and Boston. It should be remembered that the very first transatlantic steamship was projected and owned in Savan nah, and bore her name ; and sailed from this port in 1819. Among the most beautiful new buildings in 'Savannah are the grand and luxurious hotel, the De Soto, and the pic turesque court-house of Chatham County. A short railway runs seaward to the summer-village of Isle of Hope, on the Skidaway River, near the Benedictine negro mission on Skidaway Island, and the site of George Whitefield's Orphans' Home. Farther down is the sea- view ing bluff of Montgomery, the headquarters of Georgia yachtsmen. Thunderbolt, Beach Hammock and Tybee Island are other marine pleasuring resorts below Savannah. .,¦¦¦,,,,,¦,.,-:. THE STATE OF GEORGIA. ROME I SHORTER COLLEGE. 189 Augusta, the third city in Georgia, receives 200,000 bales of cotton yearly, much of which is brought in by huge six-mule wagons. The city was laid out by Gen. Oglethorpe, and named for an English princess. It stands on a fertile plain near the forest-bordered Savannah River, which is crossed by a bridge lead ing to Hamburg (S. C. ). The water-power canals cost $3,000,000, and run eight completely equipped cotton mills, with 200,000 spindles. More brown goods (or unbleached domestics) are made here than anywhere else in America, and find a ready market in Africa and China. Green Street, the pride of the city, is parked for two miles with four rows of stately trees, rivalling the avenues of Schonbrunn. The city has eight railways centering within its limits, and 25 miles of electric railways. Atlanta is 1,067 feet above the sea, and enjoys a cool and bracing highland climate. Numerous railways centre here, and have caused the charred ruins of 1865 to rise into a bril liant and beautiful modern city, with fine public buildings and parks, manifold industrial enterprises, broad and well-paved and shaded streets, and a net-work of mule and electric cars reaching far into the country. The Piedmont and Capital-City Clubs are the chief social organizations. Atlanta is called "The Gate City," because it is the gateway between the great West and the Atlantic coast, by way of the rich cotton belt. Its suburbs are develop ing with remarkable rapidity ; lovely wooded parks are being improved ; and handsome resi dences adorn nearly every street. There is a more liberal and national spirit here than in any other Southern city. Rome, perched up on the northwestern highlands, is a well-known trade-centre, cot ton-depot, and health-resort. Macon, on the Ocmulgee River, has half a dozen railroads, and a great country-trade, and serves as the chief cotton-market for several counties. Brunswick, 60 miles from Savannah and 70 miles from Jacksonville, stands on a peninsula surrounded by salt water and sheltered by outer islands. Its streets are over-arched by live-oaks and cedars, palmettos and magnolias, and many Northerners find here an agree able winter-resort. The imports and exports exceed $8,000,000 a year ; and 24 steamers visit the port every week. This port is growing in commercial importance more rapidly than any other on the Atlantic coast, having quadrupled its population in ten years. Its magnificent harbor, deep, spacio'us and well-sheltered, is the ocean terminus of the finely equipped , and far-reaching East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad. Darien is the distributing point for the Altamaha, Oconee and Ocmulgee, and exports over $1,000,000 worth of lumber yearly. Among the other towns are West Point, a place of cot ton-mills ; Valdosta, productive of naval stores ; New- nan, shipping much cotton ; Milledgeville, the an cient capital ; Marietta, a favorite health-resort, near Kennesaw Mountain ; Griffin, with mills and country- stores, amid cotton-fields and orchards ; and Dal- ton and Americus, trade-centres for broad rural countries. Thomasville is a well-known winter ;L health-resort amid the rolling Piney Woods, 350 ,„„.,: „ -• r.ou„, „ ,,,•. Tin feet above the Gulf, which is 55 miles distant, WESLEYAN FEMALE COLLEGE. 190 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. across the fertile hills of Tallahassee. The climate is peculiarly dry, and hence favorable for sufferers from pulmonary troubles. Eastman, in the park-like upland pinery of Middle Georgia, has a great hotel, for its health-seeking pilgrims. Hillman, amid the high pine- lands 65 miles from Augusta, is famous for its great electric shaft, sunk to a ledge of alum rock, and visited by thousands of rheumatics, who form electric circuits by touching hands, one of them resting a hand on the rock. The cures wrought by this simple process seem miraculous. The Bowden-Lithia Springs, near the Piedmont Chautauqua, send out great quantities of water in bottles, and are provided with singular hot baths. The Catoosa Springs, near Ringgold, are iron and sulphur ; the Madison Springs are near Athens ; the Bethesda Springs are 29 miles from Gainesville ; the Warm '..'.,'- 1 Springs (900) on a spur of Pine Mountain, are tinctured with sulphur and iron ; the Red Sulphur Springs are near Lookout Mountain ; and the In dian Springs (sulphur) are near Griffin. In 1886, Savannah dedicated a. statue of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, of the Continental Army. Two years later, she unveiled a monument to Sergeant Wm. Jasper. An older monument commemorates Count Pulaski, who was killed while leading one of the American columns in the assault on the city, in 1779. Augusta has a granite monument to the Georgia signers of the Declaration of Independence, and a marble memorial to the Confederate dead. Atlanta has a noble statue of the late Senator B. H. Hill, on Peach-Tree Street, its fashionable thoroughfare. The Railroads are controlled by three commissioners, with caution and conservatism. The Central Railroad of Georgia runs from Savannah to Macon, 192 miles, and Atlanta, 295 miles, and leases 13 lines, including the routes from Millen to Augusta, 53 miles; Gor don to Eatonton, 38 miles ; Smithville to Eufaula, Ozark and Montgomery ; Fort Valley to Perry, 12 miles, and Columbus, fi miles ; Smithville to Albany, 24 miles ; Cuthbert to Fort Gaines, 22 miles ; Macon to Smithville, 83 miles ; Barnesville to Thomaston, 16 miles ; and Griffin to Carrollton, 60 miles. This company also controls lines in Alabama and South Caro lina. The Savannah, Florida & Western Line was built in 1853-67, and is a part of the At lantic Coast Line. It runs from Savannah to Chattahoochee, 258 miles, with branches to Albany and Monticello. From Waycross to Jacksonville, the distance is 34 miles ; and another line runs from Dupont to Live Oak. This is the main route to Florida. The Piedmont Air Line (or Richmond & Danville System) from New York to the remote Southwest, is carried through 100 miles of Georgia by the Atlanta & Charlotte Air Line, reaching the finest mountain- scenery in the State, and pass ing near the celebrated Toc- coa and Tallulah Falls and the Nacoochee Valley. The Air Line is prolonged west- j SPSSl -^J^^S^'j^*^- ^v~]5jlSTf ward of Atlanta by the Geor- ^S^Wffi-'^AStzr- "fe^Sl^g gia Pacific route, which trav- Atlanta. erses Anniston and Birmingham and reaches the Mississippi River 459 miles from Atlanta. The East-Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia line runs from Brunswick to Macon and Atlanta, Rome and Chattanooga, 431 miles. The 189 miles between Brunswick and Macon were built in 1859-69, at a cost of $4,000,000. This important company has a vast business on its various routes, traversing regions singularly rich in minerals and in farm-products, and reaching the sea at one of the best harbors on the American coast. The Western & Atlantic Railway, 138 miles from Atlanta to Chattanooga, is the main highway between the Ohio Valley and the Southern Atlantic coast, and became the objective THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 191 point of Sherman's bloody and victorious campaigns in 1864. It was built in 1850, at a cost to the State of about $7,000,000. There-are many other railways in Georgia, of local value and importance. The Ogeechee Canal, joining the Savannah and Ogeechee Rivers, was built in 1829-40, and is 16 miles long, 120 feet wide, and three feet deep, and has five locks. The Augusta Canal runs from the Savannah River at Augusta, around the falls in the river. It was built in 1847, at a cost of not far from $1,500,000, and is nine miles .long and eleven feet deep, with a strong current. Tallapoosa is a thriving and prosperous young city in Haralson County, in the mountain tion of 3,000 is composed dwellings, a score of fac- city, although settled 50 old, yet it has municipal lights and water- works. TALLAPOOSA: GLASS-WORKS, IRON FURNACE, AND LITHIA-SPRINGS HOTEL. region of the northwest. Its popula- chiefly of Northerners. Here are 700 tories, and 50 business houses. The years ago, is in fact only three years government and institutions, electric Its chief industries are the Piedmont Glass- Works and the Tallapoosa Furnaces, both in successful opera tion. Here are two banks, schools, churches and two weekly newspa pers. Besides the three small hotels, the Lithia- Springs Hotel, now build ing, will cost about $100,000. It is on the Georgia-Pacific Railroad, and the Georgia, Tennessee & Illinois Railroad is under construction. The recent growth of Tallapoosa is due to the energetic manner in which it is being developed by the Georgia-Alabama Investment & Development Company, a corporation officered by a group of able men, whose names have a national eminence. But the future is based on the wonderful resources within and around its borders, — the long leaf pine, hard woods, and charcoal timber ; inexhaustible quantities of steam and coking coal ; brick, terra-cotta and fire-clays ; building and glass sand ; clear mountain water ; gold, marble, and other minerals ; and a surrounding soil that is fertile for vegetables, cereals and cotton, and especially for profit able fruit-culture. Tallapoosa, being on the western escarpment. of the Piedmont plateau, and 1, 200 feet above, the sea level, has a fine climate, and is remarkable for its healthfulness. The Finances are in the prosperous condition shown by the fines and penalties, licenses and taxes more than meeting the State's expenses, while a sinking-fund is lowering the public debt. The lessees of the Western & Atlantic Railroad pay $420,000 a year to the State, and $25,000 a year is received for the hire of convicts. By the acts of 1879 and 1887, pensions are given to all disabled Confederate soldiers of Georgia. The State's val uation in i860 reached $646,000,000. Ten years later it had fallen to $268,000,000 as a result of the war, and the emancipation of myriads of negro slaves. The Southern Bank of the State of Georgia, at Savannah, operates under a charter from the State, but has no connection with it other than being one of its designated deposi tories. It was started in 1870, just when the South was beginning to recover from the convulsion that had wrecked nearly all its finan cial enterprises, and has kept pace with the growth of its section, and is now one of the most import ant financial institutions south of Baltimore, and by far the foremost bank in Georgia. Its capital is $500,000, and its surplus fund and undivided profits $700,000, with deposits of $2,000,000 and gross assets of $3,600,000. Confining its opera tions to no special lines, it has aided to develop each legitimate branch of business, and fostered southern bank ofThVstate of Georgia. and encouraged every industry that promised to 192 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. IN MAN & CO. advance the interests of the community. An important feature is its Department of Savings, which, besides encouraging in all classes habits of thrift and economy, has saved from waste innumerable trifling sums which, by aggregation, form a large addition to Savannah bank ing capital. As the development of the South — great as it has been — is only in its in fancy, this institution has a future of which its past, though successful, is only an indication. S. M. Inman & Co. does the largest interior cotton business of any firm, not only in America, but in the world. From a small beginning of 1,500 bales of cotton for the year 1867 the business has steadily grown until now they handle between 300,000 and 400,000 bales. Many of the largest mills in the United States are among their patrons, and they do an immense domestic business in the Atlantic States, while their foreign ship ments are growing to colossal proportions. Every member of the firm is thoroughly trained in the cotton business by many years' experience, and their corps of assistants number many able and skillful men. The business in the Atlantic States is done under the firm-name of S. M. Innjan & Co., with headquarters at Atlanta, Ga. ; while the business west of the Mississippi River, under the slightly different name of Inman & Co., for the mere sake of distinction, has its principal office at Houston, Texas. They employ in all the depart ments of their business some 500 men, and have warehouse and compress accommodations for 50,000 bales of cotton at one time. With ample capital and unlimited credit, they are in the market throughout the season, and are always free buyers of cotton to fill the orders of their correspondents. The most interesting building in Atlanta for the wayfarer in the Sunny South is the great Kimball House, where nearly a thousand guests may be enter tained at once, ^_ and supplied with all the comforts and luxuries demanded in this age of refinement and luxury. The original hotel on this site was erected after the Civil War, by an enterprising Northerner ; and after its destruction by fire, the present house rose on its si^e, for the benefit of pleasure-travellers, tourists bound for Flor ida and New Orleans, prospectors' for busi ness enterprises, and visitors who find de light in the pure air of Atlanta and the beautiful scenery of the historic highlands of Georgia. Under the management of Charles Beermann & Co., the Kimball House takes rank among the best con ducted and most successful hotels of the whole country. It is situated in the heart of the city ; architecturally it is very attractive, and throughout it is handsomely furnished. Manufactures. — In 1880, Georgia factories, capitalized at $20,672,410, paid $5,266,- 152 to 24,875 operatives, and from raw material valued at $24, 143,939 made goods worth $36,440,998. Four years later the capital and products had doubled, with great cotton mills at Columbus, Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, Athens, West Point and Decatur; 32 woolen-mills; $20,000,000 in iron and steelworks; and $10,000,000 in flour and meal mills. The prosperous manufacturing enterprises of Georgia have risen since the war, favored by admirable water-powers, cheap-labor, exemption from taxation, easy transport by rail or river, and the presence on the ground of cotton and wool, coal and iron. The manufacture of cotton goods employs 10,000 hands, 8,000 looms, 340,000 spindles, and produces $25,000,000 yearly, from 100,000 bales of cotton. Savannah makes parlor and sleeping and box cars. Atlanta has large street-car works and cotton-mills. ATLANTA : KIMBALL HOUSE. 1863 14,999 32,010 29,013 3.597 Idaho lay hidden beyond the Plains and Rocky Moun tains for centuries after the settlement of the East, un regarded and unknown, ex cept by the adventurers of the Hudson's-Bay Com pany. It is hard to tell how it came to be a part of the Union, whether as a fragment of the Louisiana pur chase or as a section of the Oregon Country. The first white men in Idaho were Lewis and 'Clark's exploring party, in 1805-6, followed by the Missouri Fur Company and the Pacific Fur Company, by Capt. Bonneville, in 1834 ; and by missionaries. In 1834 N. J. Wyeth founded Fort Hall, which was an important point in emigrant days, being at the crossing of the Missouri-Oregon and Utah-Canada trails. The Territory of Idaho w-as formed in 1863, from parts of Washington, Dakota, and Nebraska, and then in cluded the present Idaho and Montana and most of Wyom ing. Attention was called to this mountain-walled solitude in i860, when thousands of Californian miners flocked into it, after the discovery of gold on Oro-Fino Creek. These adventurers aroused the hostility of the Indians, who fought them at many points, and the defiles of Owyhee and Salmon River often echoed with the terrible war-whoop. The U. -S. troops were withdrawn to fight for the Union, and this region was defended by the First Oregon Cavalry. In 1883-84 occurred the Cceur-d'Alene stampede, when 5,000 gold-hunters crossed the terrible snows of the mountains. The Name of Idaho is Indian in origin, and is said to mean "The sight on the Mountains," applied to the lustrous view of the snowy peaks at sunrise. Joaquim Miller says that the Indians pronounced it E-dah'-hoe. Three names Shoshone, Montana and Idaho, were submitted to Congress, and the latter was chosen, through the insistance of Geo. B. Walker, of Idaho, and Senator Wilson, of Mas sachusetts. The Shoshones had a legend of a bright object falling from the skies, and , Fort Hall. . . 1834 Americans. Organized as a Territory Population in 1870, In 1880, . . White, . . Colored, . . American-born Foreign-born,Males,Females, In 1800 (U. S. Census) 'opulation to the square mil Voting Population {1880), . Vote for Governor in 1890 (Rep) Vote for Governor in 1890 (Dem.) Net Territorial Debt, Taxable Property, . %\ Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives . . Militia (Disciplined), . , . Counties, .... Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . . Manufactures (yearly) Farm Land (in acres), Farm Population, Farm- Land Values, Colleges, . . Public Schools, . School Children, Newspapers, Latitude, . .... Longitude, . 8o°48' to 85°40' V temperature, . . .^—38° to II Mean .Temperature (Fort Boisej, 10,792 84,305 0.4 M,79510,262 §200,855 3,000,000 84,foo 18 261844 Si, 200,000 328,000 §2,800,000 I 365 io,433 38 3o°2i' to 25° - ¦>' w 5° 52=46' TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEII1 POP ULATIONS. Boise City, .... 4,000 Pocatello, 2,500 Hailey, . . . 2,000 Lewiston, 1,600 Bellevue, 1,500 Ketchum, . . 1,500 Moscow, . . . . i,5°° Wardner, . . . . 1,500 Shoshone, .... 1,200 Wallace, l,2oo 194 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. EMIGRANT TEAM AT WATER. resting on a mountain, forever shining, but for ever inaccessible. This they called Idaho. The Arms of Idaho bear a view of the Snake River, with the Owyhee Mountains on the left, and the Pannock and Bamjpck Moun tains on the right, a new moon, and a steam boat. The crest is a full-antlered elk's head. The supporters are Liberty and Peace. The motto is Salve ("Welcome," to the miner, the farmer, the merchant). The Governors of Idaho have been : Wm. H. Wallace, 1863-4; Caleb Lyon, 1864-6; David W. Ballard, 1866-7; Samuel Bard, 1870; Oilman Marston, 1870-1 ; Alex. Connor, 1871; Thos. M. Bowen, 1871 ; Thos. W. Ben nett, 1871-6; Mason Brayman, 1876-80; John B. Neil, 1880-3; John N. Irwin, 1883; Wm. N. Bunn, 1884-5; Edw. A. Stevenson, 1885-9; Ge0- L. Shoup, 1889-90. Descriptive. — Idaho has been likened in shape to a great chair, with the Rocky and Bitter- Root Ranges as its front, seat and back. It also nearly resembles a right-angled tri angle, whose hypothenuse is the Bitter-Root Range. The streams flow to the Pacific, except Bear River, which enters the Great Salt Lake. It is the twelfth American common wealth in area, being larger than all New-England, and about equal to Pennsylvania and Ohio united. Utah and Nevada are on the south ; Wyoming and Montana, east ; British Columbia, north ; and Wash ington and Oregon, west. The straight western frontier is more than 400 miles long ; the southern, 300; the northern, 50, and the eastern border runs due north for 130 miles, and then follows the Rocky Mountains northwest. The mean elevation is 4, 700 feet, the surfaces being greatly diversified, from the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers, 676 feet above the sea, to the summits of the Rocky Mountains, high above the snow-line. It is a vast wedge-shaped table-land, rising from the west to a height of 10,000 feet in the east, and, as Prof. Hayden says : "Literally crumpled or rolled up in one continuous series of mountain ranges, fold after fold." The great Wahsatch and Rocky Mountains extend along the southeast, and a small part of the Yellowstone National Park is in Idaho. The Bitter-Root Mountains begin near Gibbon's Pass, and run northwest to the headwaters of the St. Joseph, beyond which the Divide is prolonged by the Cceur-d'Alene Range. Central Idaho is a. great mass of wild sierras, among which the Salmon-River and Clearwater Mountains extend for long distances, and the Sawtooth Range lifts its sharp rocky spires. Among these ridges are park-like valleys like the Camas Prairie, with 500 square miles of roll ing farm-lands ; the Payette Valley, abounding in grain and cattle ; and part of the famous grain- bearing Palouse country, about Genesee. Boise Valley, sixty miles long, is a rich farming and mining country, sheltered by the Boise Moun tains, and with large areas reclaimed by the canals of the Idaho Mining & Irrigation Company. In the east, the Lemhi Valley, seventy miles long and four to six miles wide, is famous for its crops and dairies. The Pahsamari Valley, twenty-five cabinet gorse, Clark's fork. GREAT CANON OF THE SALMON RIVER. .^J&C PORT-NEUF VALLEY. THE STATE OF IDAHO. 1 95 miles long, has great herds of cattle. In northern Idaho are the St. -Joseph's and Potlatch Valleys, and North Camas Prairie ; and eastern Idaho has in the Salt-River, Bear- River, North-Fork, South Fork, Blackfoot and Rome Val leys a thousand square miles of good soil. The Surveyor-General divides Idaho into 25,000,000 acres of grazing lands, 10,000,000 acres of forests, 13,000,000 acres of farm-lands, and 8,000,000 acres of sage-brush plains. Much of southern Idaho is a dry and black lava desert, 400 miles long and 50 miles wide, cut deep down, 1,000 feet or more, by the sheer cations of the Snake River and other streams, and by many great crevasses. The northern part of the plain has a wonderfully weird appearance, as of a black sea suddenly turned to stone. The soil elsewhere in the valley is sandy and un stable, and the chief vegetation is enormous sage-brush and bunch-grass, but irrigation is redeeming it for farming. Within the bend of the Snake River is an immense basaltic plain, out of which rise the granite crests of the Three Buttes, famous landmarks for over land emigrants. South of the Snake the valleys and foot-hills contain bunch-grass and arable bottom-lands, alternating with abrupt ranges of mountains, which are dotted with a few evergreens and aspens. The beautiful Malade, Cache, Gentile, Bear-River and other valleys open away into the Utah basin, and are occupied by Mormon hamlets, around which extend broad farms, with efficient irrigation systems. The Bear-Lake country has a moun tain of sulphur, and deposits of lead and coal. The latter is also mined on Irwin Creek and at Lewiston. Close to Bear River is the health-resort of Soda Springs, with its alterative and tonic iron, sulphur and magnesia waters, sparkling, effer vescent and pleasant, and highly charged with carbonic-acid gas. One of these fountains Fremont named the Steamboat Spring, on account of its measured puffs of steam. In this vicinity are sulphur lakes, a deep ice-cave, and the beautiful Swan Lake. The most famous springs are the Mammoth, Hooper and Ninety-Per-Cent ; and there are also mud, hot, ammonia, and gas springs. The waters are 5,779 feet above the sea, among the Wahsatch Mountains, in a pure and dry air, of great benefit to con sumptives. They were a favorite resort of Brigham Young, and many Salt-Lake Mormons frequent them now ; and other well-to-do persons have built summer-cottages. The large hotel is called the Idanha. About 500,000 gallons of water are bottled every year. Bear Lake is a magnificent oval, twenty by eight miles, whose deep and mountain-fed waters abound in trout and mullet, and ripple up sandy shores below Paris, Montpelier and other peaceful Mormon villages. The valley is 5,900 feet above the sea, and Bear Lake remains ice-bound from January to April. Southwestern Idaho is occupied by a dreary alkali desert, out of which rise the Owyhee Mountains, famous for their silver-mines. There are 10,000,000 acres of forest in Idaho, producing a vast and valuable timber-supply. White-pine logs 100 feet long and five feet thick I have been cut on the Clearwater. In the south I the forests are mainly along the highlands, but in the north they cover the entire country, and include valuable tracts of red cedar, lodge-pole and yellow pines, and great spruces. The lakes of Idaho are its most beautiful fea tures. Lake Pend 'Orcilles is thirty miles long and from three to fifteen miles wide, studded with green islands, and surrounded by Granite SCENE ON SNAKE RIVER. ¦ n IQ6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Mountain, the snowy Pack-Saddle Range, the purple Cceur-d'Alene Mountains, and other peaks, nearly 10,000 feet high. The scenery has been likened to that of the world-re nowned Konigs-See, in Bavaria. The lake has 250 miles of shore-line, and is navigated by several small steamboats. The Northern Pacific Railroad follows the north shore for twenty- five miles, and has a summer-hotel at Hope. This fine inland sea abounds in trout, gray ling and char ; and game-birds. and white-tailed deer, moose. forests. Cceur-d'Alene Lake the Cceur-d'Alene Mountains, E, with its branches pointing lonely shores are clad with The expanse is twenty-five four miles wide, with a wild Windermere of clear, abounding in trout and with millions of white st. Joseph River flows into navigable for twenty-five the Cceur-d'Alene River the steamboats to Old Mis- whence a narrow-gauge railway the mining country. The lake terious swells, like the seiches kane River flows out of its SHOSHONE FALLS. black and cinnamon bears, mule elk, and caribou dwell in the fills a wide gorge in the spurs of and bears the form of a letter southeast. Its irregular and forests of pine and tamarack. miles long and from one to depth reaching 180 feet, a cold, light - green water, other fish, and stocked fish. The mountain-born its southern bay, and is miles ; and five miles below enters, ascended daily by sion, thirty-five miles up, runs to Mullan and Burke, in is agitated at evening by mys- on Lake Geneva. The Spo- northern end, and runs 100 miles west to the Columbia, like a great canal. Farther north, under the lonely Cabinet Mountains, in a land inhabited mainly by caribou, deer and bears, Lake Kanik-su covers 200 square miles. This remote locality, forty miles from the railway, is visited only by hunters, trappers and prospectors. Henry Lake and Cliff Lake, in the southeast, are surrounded by the high peaks and basaltic cliffs of the Rocky Mountains, each being above a league long. The clear, cold unfathomed depths of the Payette Lakes (one of which is ten by two miles) lie at the head of the beautiful Long Valley. The chief river is the Snake, called by the Indians the Shoshone, and by the early ex plorers Lewis's Fork of the Columbia. It is a rapid stream, running for a thousand miles in Idaho, and draining nearly two thirds of its territory, receiving many large tributaries, like the Salmon, Port-Neuf, Wood, Boise, Owyhee, Weiser, and Clearwater, from the Idaho side, and many others from Oregon. These are valuable for mining and irrigation, but cannot be navigated, except the Clearwater. The Salmon River is 450 miles long, traversing a wild and picturesque valley. Around the headwaters of the Snake, near Yellowstone Park, there are rich bottoms, followed by 150 miles of valley-lands. The American Falls are forty feet high, plunging over a lava stairway ; and the Oregon Short Line crosses the river amid their roar and spray. Below Goose Creek the Snake enters a. profound canon, within whose gloomy depths it flows for seventy miles. In this chasm the river sweeps through a group of five volcanic islands, amid which occur several cascades ; and then forms the magnificent Shoshone Falls, descending in full volume, 950 feet wide, over a semi-circular cliff 225 feet high, torn by projecting rocks of jetty lava into cataracts of white foam and rainbow-crossed spray. At times the vol ume of water nearly equals that of Niagara, and the fall is one third higher. Richardson calls it "a cataract & TWIN FALLS : SNAKE RIVER. THE STA TE OF IDAHO. 197 FERRY AT SHOSHONE FALLS. of snow with an avalanche of jewels, amid solemn portals of lava, unrivalled in the world save by Niagara." This remarkable locality is twenty-five miles from the railway, by a stage- route over the olive and gray desert ; ajjd has a hotel for tourists. The Twin Falls of the Snake River (150 feet high) are three miles above the Shoshone Falls. Forty-five miles below the river plunges over the Salmon Falls. The Snake is navigable from a few miles above the Boisfe River to Powder River, 100 miles below. The Hailey Hot Springs, high up in the Wood-River Valley, are strongly mineralized, and have a temperature of 1440, with a_ large hotel, and luxurious bathing facilities, sur rounded by a beautiful park. Similar accommodations are provided at the Guyer Hot Springs (1500), near Ketchum; and the Boise Hot Springs. The Panhandle is traversed by Clark's Fork, and the Kootenai and Spokane Rivers, affording attractive scenery. At Post Falls, on the Spokane, the deep, still river falls eighteen feet, and forty feet in rapids, making a valuable water-power for the lumber-region hereabouts. The Climate varies greatly, and the perpetual snows of the mountain- walls look down on lovely temperate valleys, dry and equable, and warmed by the winds from the Black Current of Japan. The plains have cold and bracing winters, between the severe climate of the mountains and the mildness of the valleys. The summers are cool and pleasant. People with consumption and malaria, asthma and general debility, find this highly oxygen ated air beneficial. Cyclones and floods are unknown here, and sunstroke and hydrophobia are equally strangers. Lewiston has a milder climate than Iowa, Ohio or New Hampshire ; and the higher placed Boise City is warmer than Connecticut. The sunshiny days number 260 in each year. Agriculture in southern Idaho is based on irrigation, which causes oases of verdure to spring up in the arid desert. In northern Idaho irrigation is not essential. The farmers find good markets in the mining camps. Among their products are over 1,500,000 bushels of wheat and 1,300,000 bushels of oats yearly, with large crops of barley and SHEEP-SHEARING CORRALS. potatoes, 530,000 tons of hay, and $1,000,- 000 worth of fruits. Flax, rye, alfalfa, sor ghum, and huge vegetables are produced abundantly. The untitled plains are rich in wild fruits, and flowers of great brilliance and beauty. The Mormons of the south also raise large crops of cereals. The grazing capabilities are availed of by 600,000 horses and cattle, and 350,000 sheep, yielding 2,000,000 pounds of wool yearly. They winter in the open air and fatten on bunch-grass and white sage. Mining has been hampered by the remoteness of the railroads, yet some of the richest placers and veins in America are worked here ; and the Rocky-Mountain range for 400 miles abounds in gold and silver. Gold was discovered as early as 1852; and again on Oro-Fino -Aim STOCK RANCHE. i98 KING'S HANDBOOK OP THE UNITED STATES. BRANDING CATTLE. Creek in i860; at Boise, in 1862; and in the Owyhee Mountains in 1863. The Territory has produced above $160,000,000 in the precious metals. The early pro ducts came mainly from the gold placers, by sluice and hydraulic methods. The "flour gold," of the river- sands, was so fine that it had to be separated by slowly running it over mercury-covered electro-plated sheets of silver. Owyhee County, larger than Massachusetts, has the Oro-Fino, Poorman and other gold and sil ver mines, very rich in ore, but expensive to work. The Wood-River district of Alturas County produces several million dollars' worth of silver-bearing lead yearly, and considerable gold, with a dozen concentrators and a score of smelting works and mills; and has numerous mining-villages, toward the Sawtooth Mountains. The placers of Snake River and the silver-lodes about Boise and Atlanta are also worked with profit. The Leesburg district has produced $7,000,000 in placer-gold; and Lemhi County has rich regions of gold quartz and silver carbonates. The Custer-County mines have produced over $10,000,000, from the Custer, Charles- Dick ens, Bay-Horse, and other lofty mountain-mines. The Warren and Elk-City districts of Idaho County have many gold and silver mines. The Cceur-d'Alene region has developed placer-gold, with great silver and lead mines along the South Fork and the Bitter-Root Mountains. Thousands of miners are at work here. Ledges of free-mill ing chloride of silver were discovered in 1888, south of Lake Pend 'Oreilles ; and there are gold mines along Clark's Fork. The Peacock copper-mines are near the Snake River, and 4,000 feet above it, and the other wonderful deposits of the Seven-Devils region are now coming into notice. The Lost-River copper mines are very rich. Iron has been found at many points. There are large mica deposits on the Middle Weiser, and elsewhere. The Goose-Creek valley has mines of coal, or brown lignite. Marble is quarried on the Snake, and large deposits of it occur elsewhere. Granite, limestone and sandstone are also found. The Oneida Salt Works have produced 2,000,000 pounds a year of the purest and whitest salt, made by boiling the water which flows freely from saline springs near tfie Old Lander Emigrant Road. The Government lies in the hands of a governor and executive officers, and a biennial legislature. There are eighteen senators and thirty-six representatives. The Capitol was erected in 1885-7, m the centre of a square given by Bois6 City, a pleasant tree-shaded town in a rich fruit country. This is the social centre of the State, and the quaint norias or water-wheels in front of its cottages pour re freshing streams into the gardens. Near the city is the beautiful and secluded Cottonwood Cation. The 120 local convicts are kept in the United- States Penitentiary, two miles east of Boise City. The Insane Asylum at Blackfoot has about fifty inmates. The public schools are supported by local taxa tion, and endowed with two sections of land in each township. Much opposition has been made to the schools in the Mormon counties of the South. The 'the poorman," cc=ur-d'alene mining district. State University at Moscow has a valuable land- COWBOYS NOONING. THE STATE OF IDAHO. 199 grant. Wilbur College at Lewiston, is a Methodist school, with sixty-seven stud ents ; and there are other sectarian schools. Idaho has 42 Mormon churches, with 237 high priests, and 6,000 members; 7 Catholic churches, and 7 Presbyterian, 9 Episcopalian and 5 Baptist churches. The first printing press west of the Rocky Mountains, and north of California, was given by the Protestant native church of the Sandwich Islands, and set up in 1836 at the Lapwai Mission, Idaho, for printing books in the Nez-Perce language. Idaho now has thirty-seven newspapers, three of which are daily. Fort Sherman was established by Gen. Sherman at the north end of the beautiful Cceur- d'Al&ie Lake, ten miles from Rathdrum station, and is an eight-company post. Bois6 Barracks is a two-company post, not far from the Capitol, with handsome stone buildings, on a reservation a mile square. The United-States Assay Office occupies a massive stone building at Boise City. Paris, on Bear Lake, 5,836 feet above the sea, is the capital of the Mormon settlements made in 1863, and has a many-colored granite Mormon Tabernacle, the finest church in Idaho. Silver City is the metropolis of the Owyhee silver-mines. Murray nestles in a deep ravine, near the famous Dream Gulch. Florence, 6,265 feet above the sea, is one of the loftiest villages in the State. Railroads. — The long valleys of Idaho furnish available routes for railways, of which there are 800 miles in operation, although in 1876 not a rail had been laid. The Oregon Short Line runs for 481 miles in Idaho, through the Bear-Lake country, down the savage Port-Neuf Canon, across Snake River and its illimitable lava-beds, and through the fruit country from the Malade to the Weiser. A branch line runs from Shoshone to Ketchum (sixty-nine miles) ; and the Idaho Central runs from Nampa to Boise City. The Utah & Northern, one of the most important nar row-gauge railways in the world (454 miles long), traverses the eastern side of Idaho for 206J miles, crossing the Oregon Short Line at Pocatello, and ascending the Snake valley many leagues, after which it climbs the Rockies to Monida, and traverses Montana to the Northern Pacific Railroad. Its southern terminus is at Ogden, Utah, on- the Union Pacific Railway, which owns a majority of its stock. The Northern Pacific Railroad crosses northern Idaho from Heron to Hauser. A branch leads from Hauser Junction to Cceur- d'Alene City, thirty- three miles, whence steamboats run to Old Mission, connect ing with a narrow-gauge line to Mullan and Burke, forty-nine miles. Another branch reaches Genesee. The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company enters the Palouse country. Steamboats run on the Snake be tween Lewiston and Riparia; on the Lower Clearwater, from Lewiston to the North Fork ; and on the Cceur- 200 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. d'Alene Lake and River. Two steamboats run on Lake Pend 'Oreilles. Stages traverse the roads in every direction. The flour-mills and lumber-mills of Idaho produce over $1,000,000 yearly, and form its chief manufacturing interests, outside of the production of bullion. The Shoshones, or Snake Indians, are a peaceable and industrious tribe, good horsemen and hunters, and now turning to agriculture. The Lemhi Reservation of 106,000 acres and the Fort-Hall Reservation of i,20o,ood acres (with an industrial school), are set apart for the Shoshones and their offshoot tribes, the brave but uncivilized Bannocks, and the barbaric Sheep-eaters. There are 2,200 Indians at these agencies. The western Shoshone Reservation, in Owyhee, has 400 inhabitants. The Shoshones and Nez Perces have been among the firmest friends of the Americans. The Sahaptins were called Nez Perces by the French voyageurs, from Nez Pres, "Flat-Noses," or perhaps because they pierced their nos trils to receive shell-ornaments. In 1855 they divided into the Treaty and Non-Treaty tribes, one settling on the Lapwai Reservation and the other rDaming free. In 1877 an attempt was made to force the Non-Treaties to live at Lapwai, but under Chief Joseph's lead they defeated Col. Perry in White-Bird Canon ; gave Gen. Howard a long day's battle on the Clearwater ; crossed the Bitter- Root Mountains ; defeated Gen. Gibbon ; recrossed to Horse Prairie ; surprised Howard's camp and stampeded his horses ; then entered the Yellowstone Park, and endeavored to reach Canada. One band succeeded, bin the main body suffered capture at the Sweet-Grass Hills, in Montana, and were taken to Leavenworth and Indian Territory. Seven years later most of them returned to Lapwai and the Colville Reservation. There are 1,200 Nez Perces here, with schools and farms, on a fertile reservation of 746,651 acres. In 1889 Special-Agent Alice S. Fletcher began to allot the land to them in severalty. The Skizoomish Indians were named by the early French voyageurs Awl-Hearts ("Cceur-d'Alene"), indicating that their spirits were small and hard, as shown by their shrewdness in trade. In 1820 they numbered 2,000, but there are only 250 left now, although the tribe has never been at war with the United States. They are self-supporting farmers, educating their children at the nuns' schools, and attending the Catholic Mission of the Sacred Heart, founded in 1841. Their reservation covers 600,000 acres, near Cceur- d'Alene Lake. The Kootenais in the north, are reputed to be gentle and honest, but poor and lazy. LAKE PENO 'OREILLES MISSION. " It was the common judgment of the first explorers that there was more of strange and awful in the scenery and topography of Idaho than of the pleasing and attractive. A more intimate acquaintance with the less conspicuous features of the country revealed many beauties. The climate of the valleys was found to be far milder than from their elevation could have been expected. Picturesque lakes were discovered nestled among the mountains, or furnishing in some instances navigable waters. Fish and game abound. Fine forests of pine and fir covers the mountain-slopes, except in the lava region ; and nature even in this phenomenal part of her domain, had not forgotten to prepare the earth for the occupation of man, nor neglected to give him a wondrously warm and fertile soil to compensate for the labor of subduing the savagery of her apparently waste places." Hubert Howe Bancroft. *EM„».,«,.t In the dawn of its his tory Illinois is seen thinly populated by tribes of sav ages, forever at war, and wreaking upon each other the most horrible tortures. The Illinois were a con federacy of Algonquin In dians, including the Peoria, Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Tamaroa, and Michigan tribes, dwelling in and near the State that commemorates the name. They drove out the Arkansas ; nearly annihilated the Winne- bagoes, in 1 640 ; suffered murderous defeat by the Iroquois, in 1679, losing 1,300 warriors; fought the Sioux; attacked the frontiers of Virginia ; joined the French in fighting the Chickasaws ; and in 17 19 were quite naturally reduced to 3,000 persons. After a season of war against the United States, the fragments of the nation were led by their chief, Du Quoin, to the Indian Territory. The Kickapoos origi nally occupied the region south of Lake Michigan, whence they advanced southward to the Sangamon. They were the most implacable enemies of the Republic, and fought Harrison, Harmar, St. Clair and Wayne, and when ex pelled from Illinois they migrated to Mexico, to escape American rule. The first Europeans to visit this land of massacre were the envoys of religion and commerce. Pushing westward from the rock of Quebec into the vast continental wilder ness, the heroic Champlain reached Lake Huron in 161 5, and Jean Nicolet discovered Lake Michigan in 1634. In 1673 Father Marquette and Louis Joliet (a Quebec-born fur-trader) crossed Wisconsin by the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, and descended the majestic Mississippi, being the first Europeans to see Illinois, whose people welcomed them with festivals and peace-pipes, as they ascended the tranquil Illinois River. Incited by Joliet, La Salle and Tonti in 1679, made further exploration. Near the site of Buffalo (N. Y. ) they built the Griffin, and thus sailed to the Wisconsin shore, and presently ascended Settled at Kaskaskia. Settled in . . 1720 Founded by .... Frenchmen. Admitted as a State, 1818 Population, in i860, i,7H,95i In 1870, 2,5S9»8gi In 1880, 3.077.871 White, . 3,031,151 Colored, . . . 46,720 American -born, 2,494,295 Foreign-born, 583,576 Males, . 1, ^86,523 Females, .... 1,491,348 In 1890 (U. S, census) . 3,818,536 Population to the square mile, 55 Voting Population, . . 796,847 Vote for Harrison (1888), . 370,475 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 348,371 Net State debt, exceet ed by funds in hand. Real Property, §576,000,000 Personal Property, §221,000,000 Area (square miles), 56,650 U. S. Representatives, 20 Militia (Disciplined), 3,675 Counties, 102 Post-offices, 2,422 Railroads (miles), . • ¦ 9,830 Manufactures (yearly), $415,000,000 Farm Land (in acres), . 32,500,000 Farm-Land Values, £1,010,000,000 Public School Average At tendance, . 500, 736 Newspapers, . . ¦ ¦ 1.309 Latitude, . s6°59' to 42^30' N. Longitude, , . 87°35' to 91*40' W. Mean Temperature (Reloit), 47I<2° Mean Temperature {Ca ro), 58^° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP- ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). Chicago, . 1,099,850 Peoria, . 41,024 Quincy,Springfield, 31.49124,9D323,584 Bloomington, 20,048 19,688 Aurora, Elgin, . . 17,823 16,841 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LAKE MICHIGAN. the St. -Joseph, and in canoes drifted down the Kankakee, a quiet five-foot stream, zig-zagging through the tall prairie- grasses. Tonti was a witness of the unspeakable horrors of the Iroquois invasion, when hundreds of Illinois women and chil dren were burnt at the stake. Subsequently La Salle formed a confederation of Kickapoos, Miamis, Illinois, Piankeshaws and Shawnees, with above 2,000 warriors, defended by earth works, and grouped about Fort St. Louis, near Starved Rock. In 1680 La Salle and Hennepin founded Fort Creve-Cceur. Cahokia and Kaskaskia were established as Catholic missions, and an important French commerce flowed between the Great Lakes and the Mississippi Valley, by the Chicago and Illinois Rivers. The French colonies flourished, and developed farms and mills, chapels and forts, in the American Bottom, and lived at peace with the Indians. The country was governed first from Quebec, and then from New Orleans, until 1763, when it passed by cession into the hands of Great Britain. Capt. Sterling of the 42d Highlanders, became its first gov ernor, arriving at Fort Chartres in 1765. The chief French villages were Notre Dame de Cascasquias (Kaskaskia), with its stone monastery and fortress ; St. Famille de Kaoquias (Cahokia), founded by Canadians who married Cahokia squaws ; and Prairie du Rocher, near old Fort Chartres. The French Illinoisans dwelt in thatched and white-washed one- story houses, and dressed in white capotes, coarse blue garments and moccasins. Virginia had always claimed the country north west of the Ohio as hers by right of charter, and in 1778 Col. George Rogers Clark, acting under her authority, chose 150 men, with whom he de scended the Ohio to near Fort Massac. Thence they marched for several days, and seized the sleeping town of Kaskaskia. The French people gladly took the oath of allegiance to the United States, and persuaded their compatriots at Cahokia and Vincennes to embrace the American cause. Virginia governed her conquest by county lieutenants, and the earliest American immigrants were Virginians, who, in 1781, settled along the American Bottom. The magnanimous cession of the Northwest Territory to the Union, made by Virginia in 1784, placed Illinois under the National jurisdiction. In 1809 the Illinois Territorial government was organized, including Wisconsin, Michigan and Min nesota. The population in 1800 was 2,358, largely French ; and during the next ten years 10,000 immigrants came in, mainly from the Southern States. During the decade 1830-40, the population increased 318,738, and in the next decade the increase was 375,281. Fort Dearborn was erected by the Government at Chicago in 1804. In 181 2 it was evacuated by the garrison, under orders, but before they had marched a league on their way to Fort Wayne, 500 Pottawatamies attacked the little column, and massacred two thirds of them, capturing the re mainder and holding them for ransom. The Mormons founded the city of Nauvoo, on the Mississippi, in 1840, and erected an imposing temple; but their doctrines aroused among the settlers an opposition which became serious. In 1844, Joseph and Hiram Smith, the Mormon chiefs, are homes for women students. The Garrett Biblical Institute, founded in 1856 as a theological school, has 170 students. Its buildings, the elegant Memorial Hall, and Heck Hall, are in the University grounds, but the institu tion is under separate organization. Also in Evanston, and affiliated with the In stitute, are the Norwegian-Danish, and the Swedish theological schools. The new Chicago University was en dowed by J. D. Rockefeller, in 1889, with $600,000, and in 1890 with $1,000,- coomore, to which Marshall Field added a gift of land. This institution hopes to rival the ancient universities of the East, in equipment and learning. Shurtleff College, at Upper Alton, was founded in 1832, as a seminary, UPPER ALTON: SHURTLEFF COLLEGE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SPRINGFIELD ! LINCOLN MONUMENT AND TOMB. largely to educate Baptist clergymen. It is co-educational, with theo logical and scientific schools. It was named for its chief benefactor, Dr. N. B. Shurtleff, of Boston. Illinois College, founded by Presbyterians in 1830, occupies a pleasant ridge overlooking Jacksonville. Knox College, founded at Galesburg in 1841, has 174 students. Wheaton College dates from 1855. The Illinois Wesleyan University is a Methodist institution, founded at Bloomington in 1850, and with 196 students. Lombard University, at Galesburg, pertains to the Universa- lists. Lake-Forest University isa successful Presbyterian school, with 100 students. Among the Methodist schools are Hed- ding College, at Abingdon, with 78 students ; Chaddock Col lege, at Quincy ; and the German-English College, at Galena. The chief Catholic colleges are St. Ignatius (Jesuit), at Chicago ; St. Francis Solanus (Franciscan), at Quincy ; St. Viateur's, at Bourbonnais Grove ; and St. Joseph's (Franciscan), at Teutopolis. These have nearly 500 collegiate students. The chief higher schools for women are at Jacksonville, opened in 1830 ; Rockford, 1849; Mount Carroll, 1853; Knoxville, 1868; and Lake Forest, 1869. The Union Baptist Theological Seminary at Morgan Park, twelve miles south of Chicago, has 133 students. There are 20 in its Dano-Norwegian, and 19 in its Swedish department. The library contains 20, 000 volumes. The McCormick Theological Seminary, opened in 1859 at Chicago, has eleven instructors, and 100 Presbyterian divinity students. The Chicago Theological Seminary (Congregationalist), opened in 1858, has several good build ings facing Union Park, with nine instructors, 65 students and 350 graduates. Augustana College and Theological Seminary occupies a beautiful site near Rock Island, and is controlled by the Swedish Lutheran Augustana Synod of the United States. Wartburg Seminary at Mendota is also Lutheran. Eureka Col lege's Bible department has three teachers and 30 students. The Union Biblical Institution of the Evangelical Association is at Naperville. Methodist theological schools are conducted at the German-English College, at Galena, and McKendree College ; and Wheaton Theological Seminary was founded in 1881, by the Methodist Protestants. Lombard University, has a small Universalist theo logical school. The divinity schools of Illinois are among the most important in America. -The Bible Institute for missions has several buildings at Chicago, and 100 men and women students. The Bible is the only text-book, in its practical application to soul- saving- and the Christian life ; and the students are brought into face-to-face contact with the masses, in house-visiting and mission work. There is also a department for musical training, as an adjunct to religious work. Dwight L. Moody, the evangelist, is the head of this unique institution. Libraries. — The Chicago Public Library has grown since 1874 to 150,000 volumes. The great Newberry Library, en dowed with $2,500,000, is to occupy the Ogden Block, at Chicago. It already has above 40,000 volumes, in American local history, biography, astronomy, music and sociology, and is under the care of Wm. F. Poole. This library is intended solely for reference. The Crerar Library, endowed by John Crerar with $2, 225,000, will be in the South Division of Chicago, if his will is not broken by the contestants. Art. — The Art Institute of Chicago has large collections and loan collections of paintings and art-objects, and a flourish ing school of art. Among the artistic memorials of Illinois are St. Gaudens's noble statue of Lincoln, Count Lelaing's statue Chicago ; zion temple. EVANSTON : DEARBORN OBSERVATORY. THE STA TE OF ILLINOIS. , ^'"^ijMl * .i.S.tetiiw great fire of 1871 ; and a year I ^^"-^4?? -i^x^i^^ I on the same site, at its time on CHICAGO : THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE. of La Salle, the Drexel monument, and the tall column crowned with the statue of Douglas, all at Chicago, ; the statue of Grant, at Galena ; and the great monument over the remains of Abraham Lincoln, at Springfield. The Rebisso equestrian statue of Gen. Grant is being prepared for Lincoln Park, Chicago ; and Partridge's statue of Shakespeare will be placed in the same public ground. Other monumental works adorn several Illinois cities. Newspapers began here with the Illinois Sun, published at Kaskaskia, about 1814, and followed by the Illinois Emi grant, at Shawneetown, in 181 8, and The Spectator, at Ed- wardsville, in 1819. The Chicago Tribune, founded in 1847, has risen to a commanding position among American news papers. In 1853 Joseph Medill bought a large interest in the paper ; and four years later it absorbed the Democratic Press, whose publishers, Wm. Bross and J. L. Scripps, entered the Tribune company, together with Alfred Cowles, Dr. C. L. Ray, and Horace White (now of the New-York Evening Post). The "fire-proof" Tribune building was burned in the : later the present structure rose : one of the best newspaper build ings in this country. A few years prior and subsequent to the fire, Horace White had editorial control, and steered the Tribune through the Greeley campaign (Mr. Medill having retired, and being Mayor dur ing a part of the time), but with such results, that in 1874 he relinquished the control into the hands of Mr. Medill, where it has since remained. Under his judicious management, aided by a large and competent corps of employees, it has risen to its present commanding position, not only as a news -gatherer and political organ, but as one of the largest adver tising mediums in the United States. It has always been a judicious and conservative champion of the Republican party ; has opposed the follies of fiatism, prohibition and Tam many rule in cities ; secured the passage of the admirable Illinois high-license law ; and strenuously opposed ultra tariff taxation. The German- Americans of the Northwest have a noble representative newspaper in the Illinois Staats-Zeitung, which was founded in 1847, by Robert Hoeffger, who alone solicited all the advertisements and subscriptions, set the type, ran the press, and then went out and distributed the edition of 200 copies to the subscribers. In 185 1 the daily edition began, with 70 subscribers. The combined circulation of all the editions is now 97,000 copies; and the Staats-Zei tung Building, owned and occupied by the paper, at Chicago, cost, with its equipment, over $300,000. The Illinois Staats-Zeitung was the first German paper to dis cover Republican principles in the Buffalo Platform of 1848; and afterwards it antagonized the Nebraska Bill, and led the Germans into the Republican party, fighting hard for Fremont, and then for Lincoln. Latterly it has been a power also in municipal, county and State politics. There is but one German-American paper with greater wealth and circulation, and none surpasses it in ability, influence and popularity with myriads of German readers all over the United States. Many millions of Americans get their knowledge of events of the day from "patent insides," or ready-printed sheets furnished to country newspapers. This plan of auxiliary sheets was first developed, in America, by Ansel N. Kellogg, publisher of the Baraboo (Wis.) Republic, in 1861, when his printers had gone to the war, and left him under the necessity of having his paper printed at the Madison Journal office. Four years later he A ^L mm •it ''ill H 1 i f 1 ' iJLsJf|||P tlllflpMl Jill 'lirS^rK *^fi ii-^^j^^F CHICAGO : ILLINOIS STAATS-ZEITUNG. 212 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO : A. N. KELLOGG NEWSPAPER CO. went to Chicago, and founded the business of supplying "patent insides " for rural papers, with the freshest news and the best selected and most interesting miscellany. He began with eight papers, and the company now supplies over 2,000, and issues more than 100 different editions weekly, edited with conspicuous ability, by a large force of experienced journalists. The A. N. Kellogg Newspaper Company has eight offices for supplying its patrons : Chicago, with 400 newspapers ; St. Louis, with 400 ; Cleveland, 200 ; Kansas City, 267 ; Cincinnati, 230 ; Memphis, 200; St. Paul, 1 50; and Wichita, 100. Out of this enterprise has grown an immense advertising business, in which reputable advertising of the largest and shrewdest American houses is dis played on the auxiliary sheets of these groups of country and shire-town weeklies, with amazingly profitable results. Chief Cities. — Chicago is a typical Western and American city, the largest west of the Alleghany Mountains, and the second in size in the New World. About the year 1850 this outgrowth of an Indian trading-post and a frontier garrison began to challenge atten tion, and in the ensuing decade its population rose from 30,000 to 112,172. The new metropolis commanded the unrivalled inland navigation of the great lakes, and her complex systems of railways reached out into all parts of the rising West. The advanced position thus early seized has been held by the wide-awake citizens. Checaqua, the Indian name of this locality, is said by some to mean "wild onion," by others to mean "strong." Possibly either is correct. The first settler was a negro, Jean Baptiste Point au Sable, in 1790. Three years later he departed, and Le Mai, a Frenchman, came, selling out, in turn, to John Kinzie, of the American Fur Co., the first permanent settler. October 9 and 10, 1871, Chicago was nearly destroyed by a great fire, which consumed $200,000,000 worth of property, and left 100,000 people homeless. The Chicago River is a bayou running westward from Lake Michigan for five eighths of a mile, and then forking into the North and South Branches, nearly parallel with the lake. The South Side, between the river, the South Branch and the lake, contains the wholesale business, banks, exchanges, hotels and £^^SSS^^^^B iOPfftS 11111 "fsHU ' -.¦•¦?•_- _'ZLLi* ""T«(H?>,;i ':»'ini s£ CHICAGO : THE UNION STOCK-YARDS, THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 2 13 PEORIA : COURT-HOUSE. chief public buildings, with a fine residence-quarter beyond. There is also a pleasant region of homes on the North Side. The site of Chicago was a flat swamp along a bayou, and in order to secure proper drainage the city was raised ten or twelve feet, at enormous cost. To avoid the a discharge of the sewage into the lake, the city artificially reversed the course of the H Chicago River, so that it now empties into the Illinois River. The grain-trade employs thirty immense grain-elevators and store houses, handling 140,000,000 bushels yearly. Since 1870 over 2,500,000,000 bushels have been received here. The Union Stock-Yards are the largest in the world. They were opened in 1865, and cost $3,000,000. They cover 350 acres (three fifths roofed over) with eight miles of streets ; and receive over 8,000,000 head of live-stock yearly. More than $200,000,000 worth of live-stock is sold here yearly. Near by are enormous meat-packing houses, with modern appliances of wonderful ingenuity. The meats ship ped from Chicago yearly exceed $100,000,000 in value, being almost one third of the entire export. Goods are imported in bond from Europe to Chicago to the amount of $4,000,000 worth yearly. The exports are vastly greater, and consist mainly of wheat and meat. Chicago has a number of grand public buildings. The Court House and City Hall is a noble pile of French Renaissance architecture, of Athens marble and Indiana granite, with statuary, erected at a cost of $4,000,000. The Post-Office and Custom House is in the Venetian Romanesque style, with rich interior decorations of marble. It cost $6,000,000. The water supply of Chicago is taken from a crib two miles out in Lake Michigan, whence it passes through a submarine tunnel to the shore, and is pumped into a standpipe 175 feet high. The works cost $3,000,000, and furnish 150,000,000 gallons daily, yielding a considerable revenue to the city above expenses. A new ten-foot tunnel leads four miles out, to a crib now under construction. One of the mechanical wonders of Chicago is the great gas-holder, built by R. D. Wood & Co. of Philadelphia for the Chicago Gas-Light & Coke Co., 182 feet in diameter and 127^ feet high, with a capacity of 3, 100,000 cubic feet. It has three telescopic lifts. Chicago manufactures are of great extent and variety, $7,000,000 being invested in making agricultural implements, with an annual product of $16,000,000; and $3,000,000 in carriage-making, with a product of $5,000,000. The yearly product of furniture is $6,500,000; of clothing, $8,000,000; of leather, $6,500,000; of iron and steel, $20,000,000; of planed lumber, $15,500,000; of printing, $8,000,000; of malt liquors, $6,500,000; of distilled liquors, $8,500,000; of soap, $3,000,000 ; of tobacco and cigars, $5,000,000; of cut stone, $5,000,000; of chemicals, $3,000,000; besides large quantities of flour and its products, sheet metal, brass, hats and furs, and confectionery. Chicago is not merely a large region covered with houses and factories. It has a noble (though recent) development in culture and letters, with libraries of the first magnitude, educa tional institutions of far-reaching importance, and rich musical and artistic developments. The parks have cost $10,000,000, and almost surround the city with a belt of verdure, Lincoln Park (310 acres) on the north being united to Humboldt (194 acres), Garfield (185 acres) and Douglas Parks (171 acres) on Chicago: first regiment armory, the west, and these to the great South-Side Parks (165 acres j CHICAGO : CHURCH OF THE COVENANT. 214 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO : SYNAGOGUE ANSHE MAARIV. by a system of noble boulevards and parkways. These broad pleasure- grounds are adorned with many acres of rich flowers, verdant lawns, lakes, bits of forests, shore drives, zoological gardens, and con servatories. Libby Prison, in which many thousand Union officers were confined during the Secession War, was bought at Richmond, in 1888, taken down, and carried to Chicago, where its carefully numbered beams and stones were put together again, and now these horrid walls enshrine a museum of war relics. The Central Music Hall and the German Opera House, the Standard Club, and the impressive synagogue of the Congregation Anshe Maariv, and other ornaments of the city were constructed by Adler & Sulli van, the able architects of the Auditorium. The Anglo-American race is a family of born travellers, and its members are never more happy than when traversing vast distances, in search of variety in climate, or scenery, or trade. They also demand the utmost possible amount of comfort while on their wander ings; and the ingenuity of their brightest minds has been directed toward mitigating the arduous features of travel. The first large westward migration in America was that of the three Puritan churches, from Boston to Hartford, and all this godly company, even to women and children, walked the whole way, through the pathless woods. Somewhat over 200 years later, the vast migrations of Americans to Pike's Peak and California were largely conducted by the slowly crawling wagon-trains, requiring weary months to cross the Plains. But now the luxurious traveller crosses the wide continent in five or six days, eating delicious meals at regular hours, sleeping in a good bed at night, and throughout the long day watching the flying landscape through plate-glass windows, and reclining in a richly upholstered easy-chair. Bathing, shaving, reading, writing and eating are provided for in the cars of to-day. A large part of the honor for this achievement belongs to George M. Pullman, whose inventions and devices have been successfully applied to make travel ling a pleasure instead of a pain. The sovereign excellence of his improved cars is shown by the fact that they are now in use on above 70,000 miles of railways, in America and Europe, crossing the Alps and the Carpathians as well as the Alleghanies and the Rockies, and traversing Great Britain in every direction. These commodious and luxurious vehicles are a development, pure and simple, and no one could realize how many small elements enter into their tout ensemble of comfort, each one carefully thought out and elaborated, and fitted to its place. Almost every year adds some new and desirable improvement, and the Pullman car of the twentieth century will be the acme of all imaginable security and luxury. A fundamental principle with Mr. Pullman made his work a success, and the same principle gives to his corporation an assured permanency — it is to supply the public to the highest extent that they will pay for, always leading the people somewhat beyond their demands. Pullman's Palace Car Company was founded in 1867, with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000. The healthy and steady in crease in the business has necessitated suc cessive increases in the capital stock, until it now amounts to $20,000,000, all paid in, dollar for dollar, without a thought of watering. These extended operations have been conducted on the strictest business principles, always paying dividends. Tll Tl.„ „, ,r „ ,, THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. PULLMAN I THE ARCADE AND PUBLIC SQUARE, AND THE PULLMAN CAR 6H0PS. In 1880 Mr. Pullman founded the city of Pullman, on the shore of Lake Calumet, twelve miles south of Chicago, having acquired 3,500 acres of land here, on the open prairie. Here he transferred the greater part of the company's works, where the operatives could have the benefits of pure air and water, generous liberty, and deliverance from the seduc tions of a great city. Over $600,000 was spent underground, on a scientific drainage and sewage system, before a house was erected ; and then the best landscape-gardeners, civil engineers, and architects laid out and built the city, with wide and parked streets, hand some public buildings, parks and theatre and churches, convenient and picturesque build ings, and model factories. The greater part of the town is owned by the company, and the workmen are tenants, but for an equal sum get far better homes than elsewhere, while the corporation also receives a. remunerative interest on its investment. The operatives, how ever, can buy their homes, and are not at all compelled to live on the Pullman Company property. In fact, about 2,000 do not, and many of these own their places. Pullman is fast becoming an ideal industrial community, unapproached to-day by any city of its size in America. It has a large diversity of manufactures, and its churches, schools, public build ings, and homes, are of a high order. It is one of the places in this country to which foreign visitors are always attracted. One of the high culminating points of American civilization is shown in the wonderful Auditorium Building, in Chicago, which was erected in 1887-90, at a cost of $3,500,000. This enormous structure fronts on three of the chief streets, presenting impressive and commanding facades of Romanesque architecture, abounding in strong round arches. It is as nearly fire-proof as a structure can be made, being built of granite and limestone, iron and steel, with impenetrable walls, and nothing inflammable except the furniture. This greatest private building enterprise ever undertaken in America has been entitled "the Parthenon of modern civiliza tion," as the richest type of the age of business and commercial activity and individual comfort. The Auditorium was conceived and developed by Ferdinand W. Peck, a wealthy citizen of Chicago, CHICAGO: PULLMAN BUILDING. 2l6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and prominent in many enterprises, who recognized the need in the city of a grand building for political, musical, military and other conventions and reunions, to serve the metropoli tan aspirations of the Lake City, and to promote fraternity among the people of the Repub lic. The architects were Adler & Sullivan, with Prof. Wm. R. Ware as adviser, and Gen. Wm. Sooy Smith as consulting engineer. The Auditorium Association includes several hundred leading citizens of Chicago, who have taken stock in this national and patriotic enterprise. Among the component parts of the Auditorium Building are the Business Por tion, including handsome stores and 136 offices ; the Tower Observatory, 270 feet high, and occupied by the United-States Signal Service on its 17th, 18th, and 19th stories; the Re cital Hall, in cream and gold, seating 500 persons ; and the Auditorium, the largest and most sumptuous theatre and opera-house in the world, with the most complete and costly stage, and an organ of sweetness, and a seating can be enlarged to 8,000 The Auditorium mighty pile, and includes grand dining-room and floor, and a banquet- trusses over the theatre. civilization finds a home house, which is at all Auditorium Tower has ble sights of Chicago, CHICAGO : THE AUDITORIUM. unusual power and capacity of 4, 100, which in time of conventions, Hotel is a part of this 400 guest-rooms, with a kitchen on the tenth hall built of steel, on Every luxury of modern in this unrivalled public points fire-proof. The become one of the nota- and few visitors to the city fail to go to its summit, for there can be obtained views so grand as always to be remem bered. Both the architectural and decorative features of this unrivalled edifice are entirely original in their treatment, and mark a new era in the history of construction. It is generally admitted that the Auditorium proper, or the great hall, surpasses all the opera-houses of both Europe and this country in beauty of decoration and finish, as well as in capacity. This architectural pride of the Great West occupies a charming site overlooking Lake Michigan and its commercial fleets, while close around it surge the life and activity of Chicago. The broad and shady streets of Springfield, "The Flower City," intersect each other on a pleasant prairie, in a rich farming and coal-mining country near the Sangamon River. Springfield has been the capital of Illinois since 1837. Two miles north, in Oak-Ridge Cemetery, is the great Lincoln Monument, over the remains of Abraham Lincoln. Peoria, beautifully situated on Peoria Lake, has costly public buildings, several large elevators, ship ping 30,000,000 bushels of corn and oats yearly, and important manufactures. Quincy is a beautiful city, on a bold limestone bluff above the Mississippi, founded in 1822 on the site of an ancient Sac town, and endowed with noble new public buildings, and large industries in flour-milling, meat-packing, stove and wagon making, and the construction of machinery. Rock Island and Moline are contiguous manufacturing cities, on the Mississippi, which here falls seven feet in three miles, affording an immense water- power. Cairo, on the low bottoms at the con fluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, has never reached the commercial prominence fore shadowed by its position, and is only kept from inundation by a four-mile circuit of levees. Aurora, a promising factory and railroad centre, was the first city in the world to light its streets with electricity (in 1881), and opened the first free public- CHICAGO! AUDITORIUM HOTEL, , . . ., c.^ L ..... . CHICAGO: AUDITORIUM HOTEL. dining hall. schools in the State oflllmois,manyyearsago. staircase. THE STA TE OF ILLINOIS. 217 CHICAGO : THE WESTERN SHORE OF LAKE MICHIGAN. 21} KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ROCK ISLAND, ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. Bloomington is an educational city, with large car-works and foundries. Alton stands on high broken ground fronting the Mississippi, three miles above the inflowing of the Missouri, and has valuable factories. Galena, perched upon the steep Fevre bluffs, dates from 1826, . v ,.„--- .-¦-- — 'an(i is the capital of the lead -min ing country. Jol iet, forty miles southwest of Chi cago, was founded in 1834, and has factories and quar ries, the Joliet branch of the Illinois Steel Co., and the State Penitentiary. East St. Louis, practically a part of St. Louis (Mo.), is a growing city, with many industries. Railways in Illinois have over 13,000 miles of track, built at a cost of $330,000,000; and carrying yearly 32,000,000 passengers, and 54,000,000 tons of freight. The earnings from freight are four times those from passengers. Their taxes in Illinois amount to nearly $3,000,000. There are but three eciunties (Pope, Hardin and Calhoun) that are not reached by railways. The pioneer Illinois line (in what was until lately the Wabash, St. -Louis & Pacific system) was opened from Springfield to Meredosia in 1838, but mules soon supplanted the locomotives, and the line fell into disuse. When the Galena & Chicago Union Railroad was begun, in 1847, its projectors got an authorization to build a turnpike instead, in case of need. By the end of 1848, the tracks had only reached Harlem, ten miles out, and a year later they got to Elgin. Congress granted to Illinois, in 1850, alternate sections of land along the routes from Galena and from Chicago to Cairo, to aid in building a railway ; and the State transferred this domain to the Illinois Central Railroad Co., which rapidly built the line. It contracted to pay the State yearly seven per cent, of its gross earnings, for lands, etc., and Illinois has received over $10,000,000 from this source. The Illinois Central runs north from Cairo to near Centralia, whence one of its lines traverses the middle of the State north by Decatur and Bloomington to Mendota, and thence northwest to Galena and East Dubuque ; and another line passes more to the eastward to Chicago. There are 500 miles of leased branch roads, making the total mileage 1,479. The company has 8,500 employees, receiving $5,000,000 a year. The history of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway system furnishes a striking illus tration of the rapid growth of the railway interests of the United States. From the Galena & Chicago Union Rail way, consisting of 42 miles in 1 848, has grown one of the most extensive and prosperous systems in the world. From the date mentioned, year by year its lines have been ex tended, until at the pres ent time the Chicago & Northwestern Railway system embraces over 7,200 miles of thoroughly cairo : the confluence of the ohio and Mississippi rivers. equipped railway. Its CHICAGO : fort dearborn. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 219 lines reach the great timber and mining regions of northern Michigan ; St. Paul, Minneap olis and Duluth in Minnesota ; across Wisconsin, Minnesota and South Dakota to Pierre ; and through Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska into the famous Black Hills of Dakota and the oil-fields of central Wyoming. By a close traffic alliance with the Union Pacific system, superb vestibuled trains, composed of reclining chair-cars and palace sleeping and dining cars, are now run through between Chicago and Denver (Col.) and Portland (Oregon), traversing most of the principal cities of Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Ore gon. A palace sleeping-car is also run through between Chicago and San Francisco ; and the journey between Lake Michigan and the Pacific Coast can now be made in the greatest comfort without change of cars. The hunting and fishing regions of the Northwest are readily accessible by the lines of the Chicago & Northwestern Railway, and the perfect train- service between Chicago and the beautiful lakes and many health-resorts of Wisconsin, Michigan, and Minnesota has made the Northwestern the favorite route of sportsmen and tourists. With its well-ballasted road-bed, south park station ill ceim". R.ft. superior equipment and excellent train-service the Northwestern may justly claim to be a model railway in all that the term implies. The Burlington Route, Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad, is one of the largest and most perfect railroad systems in the world. It extends from Chicago, St. Louis and Peoria on the east to Denver, Cheyenne and the Black Hills on the west ; reaching between ..these terminals the Missouri-River centers of Kansas City, St. Joseph, Atchison, Council Bluffs and Omaha ; and serving many important centers of trade in Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska, such as Quincy, Burlington, Nebraska City and Lincoln. Its lines also extend from St. Louis on the south to St. Paul and Minneapolis on the north ; and its main lines and branches, aggregating 7,000 miles, are to be found in ten Western States. They pene trate in every direction the great corn-belt of Nebraska, Colorado and Kansas, and serve the mining and manufacturing regions, and many well-established cities and towns in that territory and in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Missouri and Wyoming. Its geographical posi tion, and its relation to connecting lines, make it a leading factor in the traffic of the KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO : STUDEBAKER BROS. Northwest, West and Southwest. The system employs 25,000 men ; and at its centers of traffic it maintains extensive and commodious facilities. In 1889 the Burlington Route carried into Chicago 2,552,218 head of live-stock and 36,059,372 bushels of grain ; or 23^ per cent, of the live-stock, and 22 per cent, of the grain carried into that city. Its train service is un excelled in time and equipment, and includes all modern appli ances for the comfort of patrons. The Burlington's trains leave the great Union Depot, at Chicago, which is also used by the Fort-Wayne and Pan-handle Routes, the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul, and the Alton lines. Two hundred trains leave this station daily. Of the eastward trunk lines from Chicago, the Michigan Central, with its connections, the New- York Central and the Boston & Albany, is pre-eminent. Its four daily fast through trains are unsurpassed, perfect in equipment and service, with palatial sleeping, parlor and dining cars, running through to Buffalo, New York and Boston, are operated with a trained care and vigilance that allow a high rate of speed with entire safety and comfort. The famous North Shore Limited, heated by steam and lighted by the Pintsch gas system, and supplied with every possible convenience and luxury, runs from New York to Chicago in twenty-five hours. This line, known as "The Niagara-Falls Route," from its being the only line running directly by and in full view of the great cataract (and stopping its. day trains there five minutes for the convenience of its passengers), is admirably constructed, and laid with 80-pound steel rails. Its numerous branch lines traverse the great State of Michigan, running from Toledo, Detroit and Jackson through the Saginaw and Grand-River Valleys, to the Straits of Mackinaw and the principal cities of the State. Quick to adopt the new inven tions of science and the results of experience, and to anticipate the demands of the travel ling public, it keeps in line with the great railways of the world. One of the foremost routes from Chicago to the South is the Louisville, New-Albany & Chicago Railroad, which runs from the great Illinois metropolis across the State of Indiana to Louisville and down into Ken tucky, and also to Indianapolis, connecting for Cincinnati and beyond. This is a favorite avenue between the tremendous business activities of the Northwest and the restful atmosphere and climate of the semi-tropical Southeast, the fragrant pine- forests of Georgia and the orange-groves of Florida. The traveller lies down at eight o'clock, at Chicago, and awakens at 7. 1 5 in the morning, at Louisville, 323 miles away, and well on his way to the land of winter sunshine and repose. This is the famous "Monon Route" (so-named from a city where its divisions intersect) ; whose various connecting lines cover the South with their ramifications. The freight business is excep tionally heavy, at all times. The Louisville, New-Albany & Chicago Company underwent a radical change in the executive management in 18S9, and now it is energetically becoming one of the pre-eminent roads of this country, and has been practi cally rebuilt. Within two years the line has been ballasted Chicago ; monon block. CHICAGO : POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. CHICAGO : THE BOARD OF TRADE. with rock and provided with 70-pound steel rails and new ties and new bridges. The executive offices are in the Monon Block, in Chicago. The President is Dr. Wm. L. Breyfogle, and the General Manager is Wm. F. Black. The Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railway, with more than 5,000 miles of track in Iowa, Wisconsin, the Dakotas, Minnesota, and Mis souri, and 316 miles in Illinois, runs from Chicago west to the Mississippi and north into Wisconsin. It owns 757 locomo tives and 24,000 cars. The Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific Rail way, chartered in 1847, as the Rock-Island & La-Salle Rail road, was finished to Rock Island in 1854, and to Council Bluffs (500 miles) in 1869. It controls over 2,000 miles of track, one quarter of which is in Illinois, with 2,854 employees. The Chicago & Alton Railroad runs southwest from Chicago to Bloomington, Springfield, Alton and East St. Louis, 281 miles, with several branches, and reaches west to Kansas City.' The Chicago, Santa-Fe & California Railway has 349 miles in Illinois, running from Chicago into Iowa and Missouri, and forming the eastern section of the Santa-F6 system, which reaches the Gulfs of Mexico and California and the Pacific Ocean. The St. -Louis & Indian apolis line has 385 miles in Illinois, running northeast from East St. Louis to Alton, Mat- toon, and Paris and beyond, and forming part of the ' ' Big Four Route. " The Ohio & Missis sippi line runs in 428 miles from East St. Louis to Vincennes. The great railroads from Chicago -j to the East have but little of their mileage in Illinois. The Pittsburgh, Fort-Wayne & Chicago has 15 miles (70 of track) out of its 468 miles here ; the Lake-Shore & Michigan Southern, 14 out of 2, 192 ; the Baltimore & Ohio, six ; the Michigan Central, six ; and other lines quickly pass into Indiana. Among the other im portant north and south lines are the Chicago & Eastern-Illinois, 265 miles in Illinois ; Chicago & Ohio-River, 91; and Cairo, Vincennes & Chicago, 297. The W abash Rail road Company's main line runs from Toledo (Ohio) by Decatur and Springfield, to Bluffs, 111. (413 miles), with 171 miles in Illinois. There are also routes served by this company from Chicago to Altamont, 214 miles, and from Decatur to East St. Louis, no miles. The Mobile & Ohio, St. -Louis & Cairo, and Louisville & Nashville control important lines in southern Illinois. Besides its network of railways and navigable waters, Illinois has 75,000 miles of roads and turnpikes. The Illinois & Michigan Canal runs from Chicago 96 miles to La Salle, the head of navigation on the Illinois River. It cost $6,600,000. In 1876-80 Chicago deepened this canal, at a cost of $3,250,000, so that the Chicago River now flows out of Lake Michigan and down to the Illinois, carrying in part, the sewage of the great city. As first planned, in 1836, it was in tended for a ship-canal, and the United States granted the right of way, but the financial embarrassment of the State checked the work, and reduced its scale. At some future time this scheme may be realized. CHICAGO : THE CHICAGO RIVER. CHICAGO : MASONIC TEMPLE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO : ART INSTITUTE. The Finances of Illinois are on the securest of foundations, and the State has no bonded debt. The maximum rate of taxa tion is fixed by law, at a low figure, on the assessed valuation of property. The free outlays for local improvements, railroads and public buildings reached such great proportions that the Constitution of 1870 placed restrictions on the municipalities. - In' 1880 the counties, cities and towns owed over $52,000,000, one fourth of which is payable between 1890 and 1900. Most of the bonded debts draw interest at seven per cent., but they are being refunded at from four to six per cent. Municipalities cannot incur debts to exceed five per cent, of the value of their taxable property ; and they must yearly pay part of their existing debts, with all accru ing interest. Illinois has 183 National banks, with a combined capital of $30,000,000; 20 State banks ; 450 private banking-houses ; and three saving-banks. The First National Bank of Chicago, one of the greatest financial institutions in the country, was founded in 1863, with a capital of $100,000. The great fire of 18 71 partly destroyed its building, but the safes and vaults remained intact, and the bank passed safely through the ordeal. Its charter expired in 1882, and the surplus, or reserve, was then found to be $1,800,000. In the same year, the bank was newly organized, with a capital of $3,000,000. It has grown as steadily and remarkably as Chicago itself, and now has a surplus of $2,000,000, de posits of $25,000,000, and gross assets of over $30,000,000. The mercantile and manufacturing interests of Chicago have been most liberally encouraged, and to this bank must be conceded a fair share of credit for the city's up-build ing. Its vice-president, Lyman J. Gage, was at the head of the World's Fair Committee, and the officers and direc tors include a group of Chicago's most famous men. The First National occupies capacious and magnificent quar ters on the main floor of its own substantial bank struc ture, at the corner of Monroe and Dearborn Streets. Dur ing the crisis of 1873 this bank did not suspend, but met all calls with cash, and maintained unimpaired its previous high standing and credit. The Illinois Trust and Savings Bank, the leading financial institution of its class west of Ohio, occupies handsome offices in the Rookery Building, an architectural marvel among the office-buildings of Chicago. It has a capital stock of $1,000,000, with additional lia bility of stockholders to the extent of $1,000,000, and a surplus of $1,000,000, making a total amount of over $3,000,000 pledged for the security of its depositors. The deposits and other assets make a total of nearly $20,000,000. There are four departments : The Savings Department, receiving deposits from $1 to $5,000; the Banking Department, receiving deposits subject to check, buying and selling foreign and domestic exchange, issuing letters of credit, and acting as a lawful depository of court and trust funds ; the Safety Deposit Depart ment, with private safe's and boxes kept in a great vault walled with chrome steel and iron, and thoroughly watched and guarded; and the Trust Department, acting as administrator, executor, guardian, conserv ator, assignee, and trustee of trust estates. John J. Mitchell is president. The stockholders are among the Chicago ; the rookery : wealthiest and most prominent business men. Illinois trust and savings bank. CHICAGO I FIRST NATIONAL BANK. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 223 B. & O. R. R. OFFICES. The Manufactories of Illinois exceed 16,000, with $150,- 000,000 capital, 150,006 operatives (receiving wages of $60,000,- 000 a year), and a yearly product of $450,000,000. Manufactur ing employs nearly one fifth of the people of Illinois, which stands first among the States in meat-packing, the lumber-trade, and the making of malt and distilled liquors. The State is dotted all over with flouring-mills, whose product exceeds in value that oT any other local industry. Among other yearly products are clothing and furnishing goods, to the value of $25,000,000; leather, $6,000,000; boots and shoes, $4,000,000; railway bridges and cars, $13,000,000; furniture, $10,000,000; sashes, doors and planed lumber, $12,000,000; carriages and wagons, $4,000,000; publishing and printing, $6,000,000; oil, paints and white lead, $5,000,000; lard oil, oleomargarine and stearine, $7,000,000; window and green glass, soap, and many other articles. The Illinois Steel Company is the largest corporation of its kind in this or any other coun try, and possesses practically a monopoly of steel-rail manufacturing in the West. It has an authorized capital of $25,000,000, and a very extensive and profitable business, covering a score of great States. This indu s t r y was founded in 1857 by. E. B. Ward, of De troit who sold Chicago : Illinois steel company's south works. his plant to the Chicago Rollkig-Mills Co., in 1864. Five years later the North-Chicago Roll ing Mills Co. bought the works; and in 1889 they consolidated with the Union Steel Co., under the style of the Illinois Steel Co. The new organization bought the plant of the Joliet Steel Co. The various mills owned by the cor poration represent a value of above $ 1 2, 000, 000 ; and there is be yond this a work- ing capital of $6,000,000. Re cently, large ex penditures were planned, reaching far into the millions, to enlarge the works at South Chicago and Joliet, and to add the necessary plant for manufacturing under the basic process. The Illinois Steel Company makes a vast proportion of the rails and other metal goods used on the Western railroads, and has been a valued ally in the advance of civilization into the wilderness. It employs 12,000 men, with a yearly salary-list of $7,000,000; and produces each year more than 3,500,000 tons of -— Bessemer ingots, pig-iron and spiegel, rails and other articles of iron and | steel. The company owns 4,500 acres of coal - - lands, and 1,150 coke-ovens, 67 miles of railway, 60 locomo tives and 2,000 cars. The works include 17 blast furnaces, four Bessemer works, four rail-mills, and billet, rod and structural mills. The first steel rails made in America were rolled in 1865, at the North-Chicago works. CHICAGO : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S UNION WORKS. JOLIET : ILLINOIS STEEL COMPANY'S WORKS. 224 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. .../v,r.j!'i)i:,::E3s^M CHICAGO : JAMES S. KIRK i On the site of the first house ever built in Chicago — at first Au Sable's and later John Kinzie's — stand the enormous and famous soap and glycerine works of James S. Kirk & Co., the largest house of its class on the American conti nent. Kirk's soaps are among the comparatively small list of goods that are favorably known in almost all the households of the whole Union. In Chicago it is one of the most familiar of the great factories, for the immense five-story and basement substantial brick buildings stretch conspicuously along the river bank in the immediate vicinity of the wholesale business district. The large chimney, 282 feet high, that gives draft to the fires in boilers, supplying 1,600 horse-power, looms up to attract attention from all directions. In these buildings there are five acres of floor surface, wherein about 700 people are given constant employment. There are four main departments : ( 1 ) the laundry soaps, including the every-where-popular brands of "American Family" and "White Russian ;" (2) the toilet soaps, with a list of hundreds of varieties of exquisite soaps, chief among which are " Shandon Bells" and "Juvenile;" (3) the perfumery, with its specialty of "Shandon Bells Perfume," and many varieties of toilet waters, concentrated essences, and toilet preparations ; and (4) the glycerine, where the aim has been to obtain a chemically pure preparation, as well as all quali ties for technical uses. Taken altogether, this house, established in 1839 by James S. Kirk, and now conducted by his seven sons, is one of the most notable of the industries of Illinois. Fort Dearborn was constructed in 1803. It consisted of two block-houses and a parade-ground, enclosed by a strong pali sade. The block at the corner of Michigan Avenue and River Street now bears a marble tablet, thus inscribed : This building occupies the site of old Fort Dearborn, which extended a little across Michigan Avenue and somewhat into the river as it now is. The fort was built in 1803-4, forming our outmost defense. By order of Gen. Hull it was evacuated August 15, 1812, after its stores and provisions had been distributed among the In dians. Very soon after the Indians attacked and massacred about fifty of the troops and a number of citizens, including women and children, and next day burned the fort. In 1816 it was rebuilt, but after the Black-Hawk war it went into gradual disuse, and in May, 1837, was abandoned by the army, but was occupied by various government officers till 1857, when it was torn down, excepting a single building, which stood upon the site till the great fire of Oct. 9, 1871. The McCormick Harvesting Machine Com pany is the outgrowth of the original invention of the reaping machine, by Cyrus H. McCor mick, in 1831. This machine is now universally admitted to be one of the wonders of the age, and has made it possible for the United States to become the greatest agricultural country in the world. After manufacturing his machine in a small way in Virginia, Mr. McCormick moved to Cincinnati, in 1846, and in 1847 he estab- mccormick harvesting machine co. lished his great business in Chicago. Since then Adhr 1 Sullim., Artful.*.. : GERMAN OPERA HOUSE. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 225 the works have grown to mammoth proportions, and the McCormick Harvesting Machine Co. to-day leads the world in the manufacture of agricultural implements. From an output of 50 machines, in 1844, the business has grown to the enormous aggregate of 123,570 ma chines in 1890. Besides reapers, mowers, binders and other kinds of harvesters, this concern furnished yearly 8,000 tons of Manila and Sisal twine to the farmers of the great North west, with which to bind their grain. The works cover 37 acres of flooring, with good dock age on the South Branch of the Chicago River. Upwards of 2,000 men are employed here, to say nothing of the vast army of agents engaged in the sale and distribution of their har vesting machines throughout the world. In the harvesting-machine business the late Cyrus H. McCormick was the pioneer, and through his machine is now universally regarded as one of the notable benefactors of the human race. The great business of the Crane Company of Chi cago began in 1855, when Richard T. Crane, a young New-Jersey mechanic, opened a little brass foundry in a corner of the lumber-yard belonging to his uncle, Martin Ryerson. A brother, Charles S. Crane, soon joined Richard, and the business developed rapidly and securely, taking in steam -heating machinery in 1858, an iron-foundry in i860, and a wrought-iron pipe-mill in 1864. The Crane Bros. Mfg. Company changed its name in 1890 to the Crane Company; and now, |)jk with a capital of $2,500,000, atives, and owns and oc- brick buildings especially 9 business. This pioneer S steam and gas fittings in patented articles of unus- Elevator Company, making employs 1,850 oper- cupies several large constructed for its house manufactures the largest line of America, and controls the use of many ual ingenuity and value. The Crane passenger and freight elevators, is an offshoot of this corporation. The Link-Belt Machinery Company is typical of American ingenuity for practical uses. It is an outgrowth of the great business in transportation and trans-shipment which has been a part of the development of our Northwestern empire. It was incorporated in 1880, since which the capital stock has been advanced from $20,000 to $350,000. The works cover six acres, at Chicago, and here great varieties of machinery and contrivances are de signed and constructed for the handling of any material in bulk or package, and for the trans mission of power. This company is closely allied to the Link-Belt Engineering Company of Philadelphia, which supplies New York and the East with machinery of a similar char acter. The Ewart link-belting, of links of re fined malleable iron, is made in 31 regular sizes, and largely used instead of leather-belt ing (being less wasteful of power), in flour- mills and grain-elevators, breweries and malt- houses, tanneries and sugar-refineries. The company also makes elevators, conveyors, gear ing, and countless other ingenious devices. The Adams & Westlake Company is an ab sorption of the old firm of Dane, Westlake & Covert, and the manufacturing interests of '"¦'., CHICAGO : LINK-BELT MACHINERY COMPANY. Crerar, Adams & Co. , who were at Chicago the pioneer merchants in railway supplies in the West. John Crerar, the senior member of the firm, died in 1889, full of honors and of 226 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ;:;'Jgg -il|i CHICAGO : iiififl AOAMS & WESTLAKE COMPANY. n wealth, leaving a fortune of $5,000,000 to relatives and charities, and half of it to found a library. There were many articles, such as lamps, lanterns, and car-hardware and trimmings, which railroads needed, but which could not well be carried in stock, so they established a manufacturing depart ment to meet these wants. J. McGregor Adams has been the president since the company's incor poration, in 1874, and the concern is the largest manufactory of railroad and street-car lamps and hardware in America, employing a thousand men, and occupying an entire block with its works. Hn % ."-jciitirM3'5^ til, ,!! -¦:-•. M CHICAGO : HIBBARD, SPENCER, BARTLETT & CO. Among the products of the Adams & Westlake Co. are also a large variety of oil and vapor stoves, numerous specialties in the hardware line, and brass bedsteads. One of the few great wholesale hardware houses in the world was founded at Chicago in 1855; and nine years ago received incorporation as Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co. It has trebled its size during the last fifteen years, and is still advancing. It employs 350 men, and a capital of more than a million dollars. Besides its warehouses, it occupies six contig uous and connected five-story buildings, making one huge establishment. The basement is filled with heavy articles, like nails and chains, and sheet M and galvanized iron ; the ground floor, with offices, and samples of all the lines of goods ; the second floor, with mechanics' tools, builders' and shelf hardware, bicycles and sporting goods, guns and ammunition ; the third floor, with tin and wire goods, cast hollow-ware, and lanterns ; the fourth floor, with spades and shovels, and packing for shipment ; and the fifth floor, with farm ing and gardening implements. The demand for these articles is unlimited, especially in the newer States; and commercial travellers represent the house in the re motest regions, replenishing the depleted stocks of the retailers with the endless varieties and many grades of metal goods of American and foreign make. The present tendency of the commercial and industrial world to concentrate and econo mize is remarkably exemplified in the growth of the American Wheel Company, whose headquarters are at Chicago. This company was incorporated late in 1889, and immediately acquired, by purchase, six of the leading wheel-making plants in America. The companies thus purchased were the Woodburn " Sarven-Wheel " Co., of Indianapolis (Ind.); N. G. Olds & Son, of Fort Wayne (Ind.); the Keyes Mfg. Co., of Terre Haute (Ind.); the San dusky Wheel Co., of Sandusky (Ohio); Hoopes Bro. & Darlington Co., of West Chester (Pa.); and the Wapakoneta Spoke & Wheel Co., of Wapakoneta (Ohio). This confedera tion has gradually been increased until the American Wheel Company now owns and operates directly or indirectly upwards of 30 plants, scattered over a large portion of the Union. The American Wheel Company is not a Trust, but a plain corporation, organized under the laws of Illinois, with a capital of $3,000,000, which is being used in the manufacture of vehicle wheels. Immediately upon acquiring the plants, this company set about system atizing the work in each factory, until at the present time but two or three sizes are manu factured, where the variety before was almost unlimited. By this action the cost of pro duction has been materially decreased, and in addition, the company has cut off all selling expenses, and by being large purchasers of material are able to place their product upon the market at a much less cost than could have possibly been reached by any of the individual Concerns which this corporation purchased. The company is in a prosperous condition, with a largely increased business. THE STATE OF. 1LLLNOLS. 227 m § ' :_-.-;v.-: :„¦,'¦¦' CHICAGO : MARSHALL FIELD & CO. (WHOLESALE.) CHICAGO I MARSHALL FIE Away back in the fifties, Pot ter Palmer founded a dry goods busi ness in Chicago; and in 1865 Marshall Field, Levi Z. Leiter and Milton J. Palmer succeeded to it, under the name of Field, Leiter & Co., which in 188 1 became Marshall Field & Co. This is the largest house in its line in America, employing 3,500 persons, and having branch offices at New York, Manchester, Paris and Chemnitz. The business reaches $37,000,000 a year, about one fifth of which is at retail. They distribute goods throughout the entire United States, purchasing immense quantities for cash, and thus being able to supply- the trade and others at the lowest possible prices. At all seasons they carry very large stocks, not only of imported and American dry-goods, but also of furnishings and carpets, upholster ing goods, furs, and many other lines. The retail building is hardly surpassed in spacious- ¦ ness and beauty ; while the wholesale building, designed by H. H. Richardson, and built by Norcross Brothers, forms the most magnificent commercial edifice on the continent. These two structures are in different parts of Chicago, and cover great areas of ground. In the matter of clothing the citizens of the Northwest, whether men or youths, boys or children, the firm of Henry W. King & Co., of Chicago, is the largest single manufacturer. This firm was founded in 1854, as Barrett, King & Co. Mr. Barrett retired in 1864, when the firm changed to King, Kel- I logg & Co. ; and in 1868 the firm dissolved, and Mr." King associated with himself, Wm. C. Browning and Edward W. Dewey, of New York, under the firm-names of Henry W. King & Co., Chicago, as whole salers, and Browning, King & Co., New York, as manufacturers. Besides their jobbing business at Chicago, which is an extensive one, they have retail stores in New York, Brook lyn, Philadelphia, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Mil waukee and Chicago. Fully 4,000 persons are in the employ of these concerns, and the pay-roll of the New- York factory is $1,000,000 a year, and the general output of clothing, between four and five million dollars annually, reaching all parts of America. The ladies of all the great interior and Western States are largely supplied with their millinery, furnish ings and fancy goods from stocks supplied by D. B. Fisk- & Co., of Chicago, probably the largest and most ably managed house of the kind in the world. Their emporium covers six large and well-lighted floors, each nearly half an acre in area, with artistic displays of costly ribbons and feathers, beautiful flowers, fine straw goods and other attractive articles, from their own fac tory, as well as from the most famous manufactories in Europe and elsewhere. The house was founded in 1853, by D. B. Fisk, who has seen it grow into an im mense establishment, with 500 employes, and a whole- Chicago : 0. b.-fisk * co. CHICAGO : HENRY W. KING & CO. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. sale trade reaching over more than half a continent. One of the chief needs of a millinery house is intimate connection with the European centres of fashion ; and the arrangements here are so perfect, that this firm offers the choicest French and Continental novelties to its patrons simultaneously with their appearance in the fashion centres of Europe. Few houses in Chicago, or the whole west, are more honorably known than E. W. Blatchford & Co., whose trade-mark motto — "reputation, a tower of strength " — has been truly borne out in an uninterrupted career of almost 40 years. The business was established in 1854, and incorporated in 1890. It includes the manufacturing of lead and kindred and alloyed metals, and their various products, — sheet, bar, pig and glaziers' lead, lead pipe, sash weights, solder, electrotype, stereotype and babbitt metals, etc.; and also the dealing in -~3fesy CHICAGO : MANUAL TRAINING SCHOOL. antimonial tional reputa- W. BLATCHFORD * CO. pig tin, and ingot, sheet and bar copper, antimony of all grades, spelter and lead. Closely allied are two establishments, which themselves have a na tion — the Chicago Shot Tower Works, with capacity for - --=¦ --.~.^ -j 50,000 pounds a day of their famous brands of "stand ard" shot made into 30 sizes, and the Blatchford Cartridge Works, making a full line of cartridges. The group of factories are on the west side, and are substantial brick structures, covering the greater part of a block. The shot tower, 200 feet high, has been a familiar landmark for a quarter of a century. While being recognized as eminently successful busi ness men and notable manufacturers, the Blatch- fords have been prominently identified with charitable, religious and educational institutions. The immense development of the shoe- manufacturing business in the West has been materially facilitated by the erection of com pletely equipped tanneries in various localities. The foremost of these belongs to the Walker Oakley Company, whose enormous Chicago tanneries employ 400 men, and produce yearly 400, 000 wax calf-skins, 1 50, 000 kips and 50, - 000 satin calf, which are disposed of at the company's offices at Chicago, Boston and San Francisco. This industry was founded in CHICAGO : WALKER OAKLEY COMPANY. the sixties, by Joseph H. Walker, of Worcester (Mass.), and others, and received incorporation in 1890, under the Illinois laws, having a very large paid-in capital and strong security. The trade extends all over the country of the Great Lakes and the Mississippi Valley, and is growing with the growth of the population of the Northwest. The Walker Oakley Com pany enjoys peculiar advantages for a liberal disposition of its resources on account of its nearness to the sources of supply as regards the material for fine grades of leather. Among the oldest and most prominent houses of Chicago is that of M. D. Wells & Co., manufacturers of and whole sale dealers in boots and shoes, whose origin dates from the year i860, since which they have advanced with steady step, widening the area of their trade. At present, they are rated CHICAGO : M. D. WELLS & CO. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 229 CHICAGO : SPRAGUE, WARNER &. CO. as worth upwards of $2,000,000, and are adding largely to their capital each year. Chicago is the greatest distribut ing point for boots and shoes for the whole West and South, and hence there have grown up several enormous houses in this line, but the foremost of all is M. D. Wells & Co. They have their own factories, and use the whole output of other factories ; and enjoy the closest relations with many of the manufacturers of New England and elsewhere. They em ploy 6co persons in their factory, with an output of 3,000 pairs of boots and shoes daily; and the store and salesrooms occupy seven floors, and employ 75 travelling salesmen. Here, also, at Chicago, is the great supply-point for the thousands of grocery-stores and country-dealers in the interior of the continent ; and it is claimed that the wholesale grocery- house of Sprague, Warner & Co. has the largest business of any house in its line in America. This concern was founded by A. A. Sprague and E. J. Warner, in 1862, when it began with a very small stock and a borrowed capital. O. S. A. Sprague entered as a part ner in 1863. Increasing year by year, parallel with the growth of its tributary States, the company has attained a gigantic development, and sends its men and goods throughout all the interior, Western and Far- Western regions, with a trade extending from Texas to Manitoba. All the members of the firm are Vermonters, and combine New-England prudence and industry with Western enterprise. With all the jobbing houses of Chicago, they were burned out and sustained heavy loss in the great fire of 1871, but opened business the next day on the West Side. A single truck-load of merchandise, saved from the conflagration, comprised their entire stock for the first week, but unimpared credit and fast freight enabled them in a short time to supply the demands of their customers. The A. Booth Packing Company are the largest pack ers of hermetically sealed canned goods in the world, that is, they produce the largest number of cans actually packed. This enormous oyster, fish and canned goods business was founded in 1850 by Alfred Booth, who is still at the head of the corporation, which now operates with a paid-up capital of $1,000,000, and a surplus nearly as large. The chief offices, at Chicago, and the 21 branches, employ 5,000 people. The principal fishing stations are at Duluth (Minn.), Bayfield and Ashland (Wis.), Ontonagon, Manistique, St. Ignace, St. James, and Escanaba (Mich.), Port Arthur (Ont. ), and Winnipeg (Man.). The main distributing houses are at Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Louis, Omaha, Lincoln, Kansas City, and Denver. At Baltimore their factory has a capacity for packing 75,000 cans daily. Here their ample fleets obtain large supplies of oysters from Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, and the choicest fruits and vegetables from the surround ing country. At Astoria, on the Columbia River, their salmon packing establishment is the largest in the industry. At Mo bile their immense plant is equipped to pack the great yield of oysters and shrimps. The canned goods bearing the A. Booth Packing Company's brands — "Oval," "Black Diamond, "and "Old Honesty" on Cove oysters, shrimp, fruits, vegetables and fish, are sold by grocers throughout the world ; the prominence of these brands resulting from extreme caution and careful selection of thoroughly trustworthy goods. This company are CHICAGO : CENTRAL MUSIC HALL. CHICAGO : A. BOOTH PACKING CO. 230 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CHICAGO ! H. H. SHUFELDT & the largest patrons of the express companies in America. Their operations extend from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Winnipeg to the Gulf of Mexico, requiring the constant use of several lines of steamships, running in connection with their fishing boats. The preeminent distillery of the United States is Henry H. Shufeldt & Co. 's, at Chicago. It has a fame throughout the world for various reasons. Ever since 1849, when the distillery was established, its goods have been recognized as unsurpassed. Its rectifying house was established in 1857. In 1878, at Paris, in competition with the choicest productions of all nations, this housewas awarded the gold medal ' ' for purity and excellence of pro ducts of distillation over all competitors." In 1891 it was discovered that a plot had been put into execution to blow up and destroy Shufeldt & Co.'s distillery, the impression being that it was due to the fact that this was almost the only formidable house refusing to enter into the so-called "whisky trust." The plant covers over four acres. The warehouses can store 25,000 barrels. The capacity is 9,000,000 gallons a year, requiring more than 2,100,000 bushels of corn. Five million dollars a year are paid to the Government for duties on distilled spirits.. Its well-known brands of "Imperial Gin" and "Rye Malt Gin" are distilled by the im proved Holland process. A special product is "Grano-Gluten Feed," for feeding cattle. The American Biscuit & Manufacturing Company, with general offices at Chicago, is the largest corporation in the world producing biscuits, crackers, bread, confectionery and maca roni. The company was incorporated in 1 890, with a capital of $10,000,000. On its pay-rolls appear the names of 3,000 people, who are engaged in manufacturing and selling its products. It is the largest consumer of flour and sugar in the world, using 10,000 barrels of flour and 5,000 barrels of sugar a week. It owns and operates 35 plants, including the principal baking establishments in the United States, the largest being in New York, Chicago, St. Louis an.l Kansas City. Its factory in New York has the greatest capacity of any biscuit works in the United States. At these plants are turned out many well-known specialties, which enjoy a national reputation with consumers of bis cuits and confectionery. The company is the owner of the celebrated Dake, Bremner, Dozier, Langles, and other familiar brands of crackers. Since the incorporation many im provements and economies' have been introduced into the methods of manufacturing and disposing of its out-put, thereby enabling it to produce crackers and confectionery of a superior quality, and at a lower cost than others. The officers have had long experience in their line, and the plants are managed by practical men who have grown up in the business. The Albert Dickinson Company of Chicago is the foremost grass and field seed-house of the United States. It was established in 1854, by Albert F. Dickinson, the father of the president of the present corporation. At that time the busi ness was chiefly on commission ; but for many years they have been exclusively dealers in the products handled, buying at and selling to the principal American and European centres. Albert Dickin son succeeded to the business in 1872, since which time it has grown rapidly, especially during the past ten years. In 1887 the present company was CHICAGO : AMERICAN BISCUIT &. MFG. CO. CHICAGO : A. DICKINSON COMPANY. THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 231 incorporated, with a capital of $200,000 (since increased to $250,000), and now their opera tions as dealers extend over the whole American continent, and their exports and imports to and from Europe are very large. Among the varieties of agricultural seeds handled, their specialties are clovers and timothy, besides the other staples. Flax-seed is also dealt in largely, being shipped in cargoes to distributing points, and in carloads to local crushers. As importers of bird-seeds they stand unrivalled, and in pop-corn their output is probably the largest in this country. The main offices are on Kinzie Street, where the firm occupies sev eral large buildings ; but the principal warehouse is a large brick structure, at the corner of 16th and Clark Streets, owned and occupied solely by the Albert Dickinson Company, and used only in re-cleaning and re-handling the various articles connected with the business. The genius of the brick -making art is J. C. Anderson, of Chicago, who has taken out several scores of patents pertaining thereto. Under his inspiration the material which had only been used for the plainest buildings has become full of artistic beauties and capabilities, richly varying in shapes and sizes, surfaces and colors ; and the brick industry, which a few years ago was among the commonest of manufactures, can now claim a position among the fine arts. The Chicago Anderson Pressed-Brick Company, under Mr. Anderson's presi dency, has a plant covering nine acres, on the North Branch of the Chicago River, and em ploys 200 men, working under the Anderson patents, in conjunction with the New-England and New- York Anderson Pressed-Brick Com panies. These three corporations control the manufacture and sale of obsidian brick, remark able for rich body colors in browns, grays and blues ; metallic-dressed brick, yielding bronze and metal-tinted colors ; mossed brick, cov ered with a similitude of mosses; aluminum Chicago : Anderson pressed-brick co. brick, silvery and bronze-like, indestructible by heat, weather or abrasion, and turning the hardest steel points ; brecciated enamel brick, richly colored and glazed, and adaptable for the finest interior decorative work ; plain enamel and rock-faced brick ; brick in fac-simile of granite and other stones, in color and grain ; and a variety of shapes and sizes of brick for decorative uses. The latest and greatest of the Anderson inventions is in use by the Chicago Anderson Common Brick Company, at their new half-million-dollar plant, covering 80 acres, and hav ing a capacity of 300,000 brick a day. Two tunnel-kilns 672 feet long run through the main building, and at their centres burn perpetual fires of crude oil, hot enough to melt steel. There are 48 standard-size cars of iron, protected by fire-proof coverings, and each bearing 12,000 brick, continually being pushed through the tunnels, by screw-power. The cars of green brick slowly pass a succession of intensely hot cars of burnt brick, moving away from the central fires, and from their escaping heat the green brick are baked to a cherry red, even before they reach the fires, where they receive a final shrinking heat. Then they move out again, yielding their heat to in-coming cars of green brick. They are loaded from the press on to the iron-kiln cars, and from these on to the cars for the market, thus saving a great amount of handling and labor, while the economy of fuel and heat is an element of high value. James C. Anderson, the inventor of this marvelous process, is president of the company, which is capitalized at $600,000. The works are on the Stickney tract, near the elaborate system of the Chicago Union Transfer Railway Company. Power is fur nished by a battery of six large boilers, run ning several engines ; and the entire plant is lighted by electricity, and thoroughly equipped for efficient service, for the enor mous work devolved upon it. Chicago : Anderson common brick co. 232 CHICAGO LUMEER COMPANY, KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. One of the greatest needs of the treeless prairie regions of the West is lumber for building pur poses. The largest manufacturers and distributors of lumber and building material is the Chicago Lumber Co., with its numerous yards throughout the States of Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska and Colorado. This company was established in the year 1866, and now employs a paid-up capital of $5,000,000 ; and their yearly sales amount to $18,000,000. They manufacture and handle lumber from all sections of the country, red wood from California, white pine from Michigan and Wisconsin, yellow pine from the Southern States, and yellow poplar from Virginia, Tennessee and Kentucky. The stock includes huge piles of boards and joists, laths and shingles, in all varieties, and doors and blinds, battens and pickets, and other building materials, in pine, maple, poplar, cypress, redwood and other woods. The active head of the Chicago Lumber Co. is M. T. Greene, president and general manager; and S. R. Frazier, Jr., is secretary. The general offices of the company are at Chicago. Railroads traverse the Chicago yards in every direction. The leading American house in the manufacture and introduction and sale of athletic goods of every description is that of A. G. Spalding & Bros., of Chicago, which was organized in 1876 by A. G. Spalding and J. W. Spalding. The house was incorporated under the laws of Illinois, in 1 885, and now maintains large establishments in New York and Philadel phia, as well as in Chicago. Their manufactories are located in Chicago and Philadelphia, and their capital of over half a million dollars is fully employed in the manufacture and sale of base-ball goods, lawn tennis, outdoor games, bicycles, gymnasium apparatus, athletic uniforms, and in fact athletic goods of every description. Everyone interested in base ball, the national game of America, is fully aware of the preeminent position A. G. Spalding occupies, as president of the Chicago Base- Ball Club, and as one of the leaders in the base-ball legislation of the country. The increased interest in ' athletic sports is having a marked influence in the development everywhere of sound minds and sound bodies, and the house of A. G. Spalding & Bros, is now, and has been for 15 years, the leader in promoting the popular interest in all manner of vigorous outdoor recreations and exercises, and hence is a benefit to the American people. In 1872, the year after the great Chicago fire, two young employes of crockery houses, E. H. Pitkin and J. W. Brooks, Jr., established a new crockery concern, occupying a little frame building on Michigan Avenue. From this small germ has grown the firm of Pitkin & Brooks, one of the greatest American houses in the crockery and queensware, glassware and china trade, founded safely On the well-won confidence of the dealers throughout the West and South and the residents of Chicago and transient visitors. Immense importations of the finest foreign wares and consignments of American goods of similar character are received at its many-storied Chicago store and warehouses, which have very spacious and attractive show-rooms and retail sales rooms, the best in their line in America. From these inexhaus tible resources, the country from Canada to Mexico, and from the Pacific Ocean to Chesapeake Bay, is largely supplied with all grades of crockery and glassware, from the heavy, cheap and serviceable articles used by the industrial and rural families to the exquisite and delicate decorated china, Haviland and Royal Worcester, and the diamond-like cut glass wdiich adorn the tables of the wealthy, — Pitkin & Brooks' special importations. IttililMlefeliiiliLi - -^^jSmFimi* .,Sy?«? j¥?JEgS Up WW flHfnF 1 iijKSfE Sp - ¦ r^i^^SS^ir^"7 ¦fiilfltin L iU :1§iSIG&C '^5??"^?Pr5^£il»e=£» CHICAGO : . SPALDING & BRO&. CHICAGO : PITKIN & BROOKS, STATISTICS. Vincennes. . . 1702 Frenchmen. 1816 1,350,428 1,680,637 1,978,301i»938,798 39. 5°3 1,834, 123 144,178 1,010,361 967,940 2,192,404 HISTORY. Indiana's first European visitor was La Salle, who, in 1669-70, coasted along the Ohio River with his brave French explorers and opened a trade with the natives. Afterwards he crossed the portage (near South Bend) from the St. Joseph's to the Kankakee. This brilliant chieftain concen trated all the Indians of the Ohio Valley around his fort on the Illinois River, for mutual defense against the terrible Iroquois, and in so doing he depopulated Indiana. After the French founded Detroit the local tribes wandered back into Indiana and settled there. Post Ouiatenon, founded near the site of Lafayette in 1720, was the first military establishment here, followed, seven years later, by the Poste du Ouabache, which the Sieur de Vincennes, established, on the site of the present Vincennes. Indiana lay partly in Canada and partly in Louisiana, the region north of Terre Haute being governed frorri Detroit, while the remainder received its rule from New Orleans. The best French officers and Indian warriors of Indiana were slain in an attack on the Chickasaws, in 1736, and after that Lieut. St. Ange commanded at Vincennes for nearly thirty years, with prudence and wisdom. After the cession of the western country to Great Britain, British officers came to the Wabash villages and set up the rule of London. The residents, descendants of the Canadian wood-rangers {cour- eurs de bois) and French soldiery, dwelt in the peace of contented peasantry, raising plenty of good wheat, tobacco and wine, with the help of Indian and African slaves. For two thirds of a century the French made one of their fav orite routes from Lake Erie to the Mississippi River across Indiana, ascending the Maumee River, with a long portage near Lafayette, and then de scending the Wabash and Ohio. Their chief villages and trading-posts were at the head of the Maumee, Wea Prairie (Lafayette) and Vincennes. In 1778, George Rogers Clark Settled at Settled in . Founded by . . . Admitted as a Stale, . Population in i860, In 1870, In 1880, White, Colored, . . American-born,Foreign-born, . Males, . Females In 1890 (U. S. Census); Population to the square mile, 55.1 Voting Population (1880), 498,437 Vote for Harrison (1888I, 263,361 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 260,969 Net State Debt (1890), 83.661,723 Real Property, . . §567,000,000 Personal Property, . Area (square miles), V. S. Representatives, Militia (disciplined), Counties, . Post-offices, . . . . Railroads (miles), . , Manufactures (yearly), Farm Land (in acres), Farm- Land Values, Public Schools, . . . Average School-Attendance, 409,000 Newspapers, 651 Latitude, . 7.1°Al' to A1"^ N- Longitude, 84°49' to 88°2' W Temperature, . . . — 250 to ioi° Mean TemperVe (Indianapolis) 52.30 TEN CHIEE CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSCS OF l8go). Indianapolis, 105,436 Evansville, 50,756 Fori Wayne, . 35,393 Terre Haute, . . ... 30,217 South Hend, . . ... 21,819 New Albany, 21,059 Richmond 16, 608 La Fayette, . 16,243 Logansport, ... 13, 328 §227,000,000 36,3*0 13 2,066 92 6,046 % 148,000, 000 21,000,000 8635,000,000 10,000 Elkhart, 11,360 234 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. WYANDOTTE CAVE. FARM SCENE. and his- Virginians, advancing from Kentucky, captured Vin cennes and other British posts north of the Ohio. Thereupon Gov. Hamilton led down a British force from Detroit and recap tured Vincennes, but Col. Clark advanced rapidly against him, and after a close siege compelled the Royal forces to surrender the fort, with thirteen cannon and $500,000 worth of military stores. After the Virginians had conquered the country, the greater part of Indiana rested under a court of justice at Vincennes, which freely granted territory to all applicants. At this time the non- Indian inhabitants were all French or half-breeds, and numbered fewer than 1,600 persons. Another singular element came into Indiana in 1781, when a force of Spaniards under Capt. Eugenio Peurre marched across it from St. Louis and captured Fort St. Josephs. After Virginia ceded her vast inland empire to the United States in 1784, the Vincennes administration became part of the Territory Northwest of the Ohio River ; and in 1800 Indiana became a Territory, including also Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin and part of Minnesota. In 1804-5 the jurisdiction of Indiana covered all the country from Ohio to the Ore gon Country. According to the report of Jefferson's congressional committee, in 1804, parts of Indiana were to have been allotted to the proposed States of Polypo- tamia, Pelisipia, Illinoisa, Saratoga, Assenisipia and Metropotamia. Louis XV. 's decree established slavery in the Missis sippi and Ohio Valleys, but the American Ordinance of 1787 set the Northwest Territory apart for freedom. A strong party in southern Indiana favored the perpetuation of slavery there, and kept it in actual operation until after 1840. In 181 1 the eloquence of Tecumseh aroused the Shawnees to hostility against the American Government. In November, 1 81 1, Gov. Harrison advanced to the Prophet's Town (seven miles north of Lafayette) with goo men, and was attacked in camp by 1,000 Indians before sunrise. He lost 18S men, but finally repulsed the enemy by a series of desperate charges, and inflicted heavy losses on them, burning their town and laying waste the country. The Shawnees sued for peace. During the war of 1812 Indiana suffered severely, and Fort Wayne and other strongholds were assaulted or besieged by the enemy. Costly and premature internal im provements after 1830 reduced the State almost to bankruptcy, especially after the financial constriction of 1837. For ten years Indiana could not even pay the in terest on her bonds; but, in 1847, sne re sumed this obligation, and the free bank ing law, the extension of railroads, and the inpouring of emigrants ensured a new The Name Indiana was first applied granted by the Indians in 1768 to a num- the aborigines. The pet name is The Hushers, the huge white or Indian bullies endless sleep; or from a frequent local colfax monument. and permanent prosperity. to a tract of 3,500,000 acres ber of traders. It refers to Hoosier State; from who could hush one to an phrase, "Who's yer?" THE STA TE OF INDIANA. 235 evansville: u.-s. court-house and post-office. Xhe Arms of Indiana show an undulating prairie and woodland, with a buffalo in the foreground, startled by the axe of a pioneer, who is felling a great tree. In the background the sun is rising above the horizon. The Governors of Indiana have been : Territorial, Wm. Henry Harrison, 1800-11; John Gibson (acting), 181 1— 13 ; Thos. Posey, 1813-16. State, Jonathan Jennings, 1816-22; Wm. Hendricks, 1822-25; Jas. Brown Ray, 1825-31 ; Noah Noble, 1831-37; David Wallace, 1837-40; Samuel Bigger, 1840-43; James Whitcomb, 1843-48; Paris C. Dunning (acting), 1848-49; Jos. A. Wright, 1849-57; Ashbel P. Willard, 1857-60; Abram A. Hammond (acting), 1860-61; Henry S. Lane, 1861 ; Oliver P. Morton, 1861-67; Conrad Baker, 1867-73; Thos. A. Hendricks, 1873-77; Jas. D. Williams, 1877-80; Isaac P. Gray (acting), 1880-81 ; A. G. Porter, 1881-85; Isaac P. Gray, 1885-89; Alvin P. Hovey, iS Descriptive. — Indiana is the smallest of the Western States and forms rectangle, with Kentucky on the south, beyond the Ohio River, Illinois on the west, Michigan and Lake Michigan on the north, and Ohio on the east. It is a vast undulating plain, inclining toward the southwest, where, at the mouth of the Wabash, it reaches its lowest point, 370 feet above the sea. The greater part was formerly covered with forests of oak, maple, beech and walnut, and the region north of the Wabash comprises many treeless prairies, brightened by small lakes. The sloughs and lagoons of the north enabled Indiana to claim 1,200,000 acres under the Swamp-Act land-grant, and afflicted the early settlers with almost perpetual chills and fever. In later days the greater part of this area has been drained and improved. There are 21,000,000 rods of drain-tile in operation. North of Indianapolis the country is a rich loam, resting on a strong clay sub-soil. Along FORT WAYNE \ 0. AND COURT-HOUSE. Lake Mich here is In- proved by the lakes. igan there are fifty miles of shore-line, with belts of high sand-hills, and diana's only lake port, at Michigan City. This harbor has been im- the Government at a cost of $900,000, and admits the largest vessels on The prairies are diversified by low ridges and mounds and oak-groves, and the sluggish streams often flow through deeply- wooded glens. The uplands are rich and productive, except in the southeast, and the river-bottoms cover great best soil. The tendency of late years been to subdivide the farms, mak- a great number of homesteads. Land is held at from $6 to $100 an location and improvement. The limestone region, by the tributaries of ing knobs from 400 EVANSVILLE I COURT-HOUSE. acre, depending on its Ohio Valley is a hilly with abrupt ridges, cut the great river and form- to 500 feet high. Half a century ago great for-, ests covered these rugged highlands, and -much of the country remains in its primeval condition. Indi ana is the westernmost of the heavilf -timbered States on this parallel of latitude, and more than a third of its surface is still in woodlands, where the hemlocks and maples of the North meet the cypresses and sweet gums, pecans and sycamores of the South. Many of TERRE HAUTE : COURT-HOUSE. INDIANAPOLIS : COURT-HOUSE. 236 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. VINCENNES : CITY HALL. these trees are of great size and beauty. The lumber product is above $16,000,000 yearly. TheWabash drains three fourths of Indiana, crossing it in a southwesterly course and forming the western boundary for 100 miles. It is 600 miles long and has been ascended 300 miles by steamboats, to Logans- port. There are six steamboats plying along the stream .below Vincennes, and nine steamers run between Vincennes and Terre Haute (90 miles) and ports above. The rich Wabash Valley covers 12,000 square miles. The WTest Fork (300) miles and East Fork (200 miles) form the White River, which in fifty miles &_ reaches the Wabash. Its valley of 9,000 square miles is flat and heavily timbered, with prairies and rugged hills in the west. The St. Joseph flows into Lake Michigan ; the Maumee into Lake Erie. In the northern counties many lakes and ponds spread out over the level lowlands, with pleasant scenic effects. The Climate is in the main healthy, although the north and northwest winds of winter are severe and cause sharp changes in the temperature. Spring opens early, and by April the fruit-trees are in blossom. The mean yearly temperature of Indianapolis varies from 50^° to 56J°. Agriculture employs a great majority of the people, and the rich alluvial soil, nearly a yard deep, and with almost no waste land, gladly produces abundant and profitable crops. There are 9,000,000 acres in ploughed land and meadow and 2,000 in pasture. The farm products of Indiana were valued in 1870 at $123,000,000, and in 1880 at $308,000,000. Nearly 7,000,. 000 acres are devoted to cereals, yield- INDIANAPCLIS \ HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE. INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANA REFORMATORY FOR WOMEN. ing 200,000,000 bushels yearly, the average product to the acre being much greater than that of England or France. The Wabash Valley is the richest known region for corn and wheat. The corn crop yields in favoring years 130,- 000,000 bushels, valued at over $30,- 000,000, and taking up nearly 3,000,- 000 acres. The wheat crop exceeds 40,000,000 bushels yearly, worth above $30,000,000, and occupying nearly 3,000,000 acres. 46,000,000 bushels of oats are produced, worth $7,000,000; and there are large crops of barley, rye, clover seed, flaxseed, buckwheat, sorghum, potatoes and tobacco. The clover and timothy hay crop passes 1,000,000 tons yearly, and has reached 2,900,000 tons, valued at $35,000,000. There are 10,000,000 fruit-trees in Indiana, bearing yearly 36,000,000 bushels of apples and 4, 000, 000. bushels of peaches. The fruit-bear ing countries are mainly in the northeast, but peaches are largely cultivated in the south. The orchards yield 4,000,000 gallons of cider, and the vineyards 7, 000, 000 pounds of grapes. In the early days of the Swiss immigrants large quantities of wine were produced. The live-stock of Indiana includes 600,000 horses and mules, 850,000 oxen, 500,000 milch cows, 2,200,000 hogs, and 1,400,000 sheep, businlss men's association. valued at $70,000,000. The sheep once numbered EVANSVILLE THE STATE OF INDIANA. 237 CRAWFORDSVILLE : WABASH COLLEGE. over 2,000,000, and are mostly in the north east and the Wabash Valley. They yield 4,000,- 000 pounds of wool yearly. The midland and northern counties have most of the live-stock. In 1888, 1,750,000 hogs, cattle and sheep were slaughtered for food. The dairy products include yearly 156,000,000 gallons of milk, 33,000,000 pounds of butter, and 600, 000 pounds of cheese. Indiana also sends out yearly 800,000 chickens and poultry, 24,000,000 dozen of eggs and 200,- 000 pounds of feathers. She has 120,000 hives of bees, producing over 1,000,000 pounds of honey each year. Minerals. — There are 7,000 square miles of bituminous coals, cannel and block, coking and non-coking, and their use has been growing since 1870. The block coal is of great value .in smelting. It comes in cubical blocks, easy to mine and handle, free from sulphur and phosphorus, and burning down into a fragment of white ash. The seams are from one to eleven feet thick and easily mined,~ the deepest shaft being 300 feet. A fine cannel coal is mined at Cannelton and elsewhere near the Ohio River, in , veins from three to five feet thick. It burns freely, with a brilliant flame, and has a conchoidal fracture and a dull lustre. It is better than the Englis'h coal for smelting, and the best known for making steel, on account of its free dom from , phosphorus and sulphur. Natural gas is found in a ¦-£'.",' f*- -i,-^ LAFAYETTE : PURDUE UNIVERSITY AND ART SCHOOL. wide belt of counties, and issues from 400 wells, the capital invested being $6,000,000. Thousands of fam ilies use this product for heating, cooking and lighting, and many large factories are run by it. The State con tains large deposits of hematite iron ore, which is mixed with the Lake-Superior and Missouri specular ores. Bog iron occurs in valuable deposits. Among other minerals are sandstone and gypsum, slate and lithographic stone, the whetstone of Paoli, the marble of Vevay, the bluestone of Blufflon, white glass-sand and brick and porcelain clays. Great quantities of Portland cement are made in the south. The great Wyandotte Cave near Leavenworth has an unusual wealth of stalactites and stalagmites, with a hall 350 feet long and 240 feet high, extending for miles underground. Hamer's Mill Stream Cave, in Lawrence County, has been explored for nine miles, by canoes rowed up the out-flowing river. The French Lick and West Baden Springs, near Lost River, the Indian Springs and the Trinity Springs, all in southwestern Indiana, are saline sulphur waters ; and the waters of L°di and Lafayette are of simi lar character. The Greencastle and Knightstown waters are chalybeate. Chief Cities. — Indianapolis, the centre and capital city, was named in 1821, in a vast level forest broken only by Indian trails, and laid out by one of the surveyors of Washington City, with magnificent avenues. It is a famous railway centre, with fifteen converging lines and a belt railroad, Indianapolis : the propyl/eum. TERRE HAUTE '. ROSE POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. 2 38 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. UNIVERSITY OF NOTRE DAME. and has a large trade in grain and live stock, and many manufactures, employing 10,000 persons, and producing $30,000,000 worth of goods yearly. There are four grain elevators, eight flour and grist mills, 100 acres of stock-yards and four meat-packing houses. The churches number eighty, and many fine public build ings adorn the city. Evansville has a large trade by steamboats along the Ohio River and on the seven railways centering there, with exports of coal, lumber, tobacco, grain and pork, and 400 factories, employing 11,000 people and $31,000,000 of capital. It is the chief trade-mart of the Green-River region of Kentucky. Fort Wayne, built in 1794, on the site of an ancient Miami village and an English fort of 1764, is the chief city of northeastern Indiana, abounding in factories and railroads. Terre Haute, on the Wabash, is a fast-growing city of manufactures and general trade, with six railways. Logansport is a pleasant manufacturing city, at the falls of the Wabash, in a rich farming country. Lafayette, on the Wabash and in a rich farming country, has large commercial and manufacturing interests. Laporte adjoins the rich Door Prairie. Corydon was the State capital from 1813 to 1825. Richmond is in the rich cereal country east of Indianapolis. South Bend, on the St. Joseph River, is famous for its manu factories of wagons and other useful articles. Vincennes, the oldest city in Indiana, and its capital from 1800 to 1S13, lifts many tall spires in the heart of the garden of the Wabash Valley. Jeffersonville and New Albany are on the Ohio, opposite Louisville, and many river steamboats are built on their shores. Madison, midway be tween Cincinnati and Louisville, is beautifully located on the Ohio River. The Government consists of a governor and lieutenant-governor, elected for four years, and other executive officers ; the biennial general assembly of four-years' senators and 100 two- years' representatives ; the Supreme Court of five justices, elected by the people ; and the circuit and superior courts. The State capitol at Indianapolis was begun in 1877 and cost $2,000,000. It is of Indiana oolitic limestone, with adornments of statuary, polished columns and rich interior work in oak. The dome is 234 feet high. Charities and Corrections are relatively less costly in Indiana than in many other States, because the commitments for crime are below the average. This is in part due to the more even distribution of property among the people, who show an unusual proportion of house-holders. The Northern Prison, at Michigan City, has 700 convicts ; the Southern Prison, at Jeffersonville, has 540. The House of Refuge for boys, on a large farm at Plain- field, has 250 inmates, governed by the family system. At Indianapolis are the great buildings of the Insane Asylum, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Blind Asylum and Female Reformatory. The Insane Hospital at Logansport was opened in 1888, and has 360 inmates. The Eastern Insane Asylum is at Richmond. Another hospital for the insane is at Evansville. The School for the Feeble- Minded (340 inmates) is at Fort Wayne. The Sol diers' and Sailors' Orphans' Home at Knightstown jg, has 340 inmates. Education has advanced amazingly since 1870, bloomington : Indiana university. and has awakened a high enthusiasm among its GREENCASTLE : DE PAUW UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 239 The ratio of Haute has LAFAYETTE I NEW- ELECTRICAL LABORATORY, PURDUE UNIVERSITY. officers. The permanent school-funds amount to $10,000,000, and the value of school prop erty exceeds $15,000,000. Three fourths of the school population is enrolled as at its studies. illiterates falls below one in 1,100. The State Normal School at Terre 800 pupils, and there are other public normal schools at Indianapolis and Covington. The private normal schools are at Valparaiso, Dan ville, Ladoga, Mitchell, Richmond, College Hill and Angola. DePauw University was founded at Greencastle, in 1837, under the name of Indiana Asbury University, in a rented two- room building, with four teachers. . In 1 884, largely through the liberality of the late Hon. W. C. DePauw, of New Albany, a noble endowment of over $450,000 was raised, and the university took the name of its benefactor. It is supervised by the four Indiana conferences of the Metho dist Episcopal Church. The grounds cover 150 acres and there are ten buildings. DePauw has 40 instructors and 900 students, in a group of schools of arts, law, theology, didactics, music, military science and preparatory studies, each with an independent faculty, the chancellor and president being at the head of all and of each. There are 270 students in the college, 70 in theology and 24 in law. The school of military science and tactics has 180 uniformed cadets. Purdue University is the great land-grant college of Indiana, where 400 students are carefully taught in mechanics and engineering, and various industrial, agricultural and scien tific branches. It was founded in 1874, at Lafayette, and stands high among scientific schools. Indiana University at Bloomington is supported entirely from the public funds, and 104 high schools are commissioned to prepare and examine students for admission and free tuition. The courses are elective, in 15 departments, with a law-school besides. The campus contains 20 acres of high and. commanding ground near Bloomington, with maple and beech groves, amid which stand Wylie, Owen and Maxwell Halls, the ob servatory and the handsome fire-proof Library building, of white limestone. There are no dormitories. When Indiana was admitted to the Union, in 1816, Congress set apart a township of land "for the use of a seminary of learning." The State Seminary received its charter in 1820, began work in 1824, became Indiana College in 1828, and expanded to a university in 1838. It now stands among the foremost schools of the West, with thirty instructors and 300 students (278 of whom are Indianians). The University of Notre Dame, the chief Catholic school in the West, was founded in 1842, by the Very Rev. E. Sorin, a mile and a half north of South Bend, and olose to St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Lakes and St. Joseph INDIANAPOLIS : YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION. River. The main building, with its noble dome crowned by a statue of the Vir- surrounded by electric lights, contains many historical frescoes by Gregori, monnier Library of 30,000 volumes, and dormitories and society rooms. Music Hall, the great Science Building, Sorin Hall, the Gymnasium, *; the Infirmary and the Gothic church (with 33 bells, the ^rfSl famous "Chimes of Notre Dame") are all modern and handsome buildings with pleasant surroundings. The minims (students under 13 years) occupy St. Edward's Hall, and are taught by Sis ters of the Holy Cross. They form a company of cadets, while the older students compose the battalion of Hoyne Light Guards. The university has classical, scientific, civil-engineering and com mercial courses, and a three-years' law course. It has 700 students, mostly from outside of Indiana, and including a number from abroad. A mile from Notre Dame, by a beautiful avenue of poplars gin Mary, the Le- LOGAN6PORT : SOLDIERS' MONUMENT. 240 INDIANAPOLIS : UNION RAILWAY STATION. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and maples, is the extensive St. Mary's Academy, with the new Church of Our Lady of Loretto. _.--^_, Wabash College was founded by the Presbyterian Church, at ^iivrCr Crawfordsville, in 1832, and has 13 instructors and 400 stu- WjfigC.'' dents, a library of 28,500 volumes, and the commodious modern buildings of Centre Hall (chapel, library and lecture rooms), Peck Scientific Hall, and the Hovey Museum. South Hall was built in 1 834. Earlham College is a Friends' school at Richmond, with 144 students. Among other Indiana colleges are Frank lin (Baptist), Ridgeville (Free Baptist), Hanover (Presbyterian), Moore's Hill (Methodist), St. Meinrad's (Catholic), Hartsville Uni versity (U. B.), Union Christian (at Merom) and Butler University (Christian), near In dianapolis. Rose Polytechnic Institute, at Terre Haute, was founded by Chauncey Rose in 1874 (and opened in 1883) for the higher education of young men in engineering, and has a four- years" course, free to Vigo-County students. There are 16 professors and instructors and 141 students, with three buildings, on a pleasant campus often acres. Divinity schools are attached to DePauw University (M. E. ), Union Christian College, at Merom (Christian), Concordia College, at Fort Wayne (Lutheran) and St. Meinrad's College (Catholic). There are law schools at Notre Dame and Greencastle. Indianapolis has two regular medical colleges and electic, physio-medical and dental schools. Lafayette has a college of pharmacy, and Fort Wayne has a college of medicine. In these professional schools 100 men instruct 430 students. Indiana Limestone. — At Bedford there are some 19 quarries, yielding an enormous quantity of exceedingly valuable building stone, popularly known as the Bedford limestone, also often spoken of as Indiana limestone. It is an oolitic limestone, similar to the Portland oolitic limestone, of which St. Paul's Cathedral in London is built, and which is said to be the best building material known. It is also similar to the Caen stone of France. It is Bedford: hoosier stone co.'s mill. said never to break or to crack, and to have an elasticity which makes it of especial value in all climates where there are changes of temperature. It contains about 98$ pure car bonate of lime. There are two colors in this stone, a buff and a blue. A United-State's Government test shows it to be 20$ stronger than the English Portland oolitic. It is there fore no wonder that this stone has been made of use in some of the most notable structures, such as the Auditorium, in Chicago ; the New-York Times building, the Emigrant Indus trial Savings Bank, the Mutual Life Insurance Com pany, and the Vanderbilt residence, in New- York City.; the Girard Life-insurance and Annuity Com pany and the Singerly Building, in Philadelphia ; the Indiana State Capitol ; the New-Orleans Cotton Exchange; the post-offices at Louisville and De troit ; the Soldiers' Monument at Logansport ; the bridges at Cairo and St. Louis ; and the Algonquin Club, at Boston. The foremost quarries of this Bedford stone are those operated by the Hoosier Bedford : hoosier stone o.uarry. Stone Company, which owns 200 acres, whence, in THE STATE OF INDIANA. 241 INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANAPOLIS NEWS BUILDING. eight years, they have been able to exhaust only about \h acres, the estimated product being about 2,000,000 cubic feet to the acre. Thesequarries have been developed chiefly under the guidance of Wm. C. Winstandley. And the Bedford stone has been the main cause of building up the thriving little city of Bedford. The Newspapers of Indiana are about 650 in number. The Indianapolis News, the leading paper of Indiana, holds a place that might be called unique. It was started as an independent journal upon definite lines, and during its whole career has clung tenaciously to its policy, which, tersely stated, is : "Tell the truth without fear or favor, and be honest with your patrons." Its editorial and busi ness departments have been conducted on these principles, and the result is an admitted circulation, proportioned to population, larger than that of any American daily, and an influence that is phenom enal in its reach and power. It has followed a straight course with out a thought whether it would pay or not ; it never has been a time-server or a trimmer, and even its bitterest opponents concede that The News believes what it says. Its business methods have been such that its owners have nothing to regret or be ashamed of, and in its undeviating adherence to the one-price system it stands in a comparatively small class. It goes without saying that The News has had the enterprise and professional skill which are essen tial in placing any business at the head, particularly in establishing a first-class journal in the face of the great competition of the day. Having deserved the public confidence, it has gained it, and keeps it. The News was established in 1869 by John H. Holliday, who has con trolled it ever since. It was the first two- cent paper started after the war west of the seaboard, excepting at Pittsburgh, arid became the pioneer of the Western afternoon newspapers, which have almost revolutionized American journalism. The News is the largest and most costly daily in Indiana, its smallest issue being a quarto of 56 columns. It employs an array of talent not equalled by any other Indiana paper, and has all the modern facilities for the making of a great newspaper. National Institutions. — The United-States Arsenal, on a hill east of Indianapolis, has several substantial buildings on a pleasant reservation of 76 acres. It is a depository of war material, and dates from 1863. The Jeffersonville depot of the Quartermaster's Department is the general supply-depot of the United-States Army, and sends clothing and equipage to all the military posts. The buildings form a quadrangle 800 feet square, enclosing a lawn of 18 acres, and overlooked by a tall central tower. They were erected in 1871-4, in a lo cality central for the Union, near large manufactories and railroads, and the seat of import ant Government departments in 1861-5. The Marion branch of the National Sol diers' Home was built in 1889-90, at Marion, and has barracks for 1,000 veterans. Indianapolis has a magnificent soldiers' monument, 265 feet high, with several colos sal bronze statues, trophies of arms, and other adornments. In the same city are statues of celebrated Indianians — Vice-Presidents Colfax and Hendricks, and War-Governor Morton — kniqhtstown : soldiers' and sailors' orphans' home, and other interesting memorials. JEFFERSONVILLE : QUARTERMASTER'S DEPARTMENT. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. INDIANAPOLIS I INDIANA NATIONAL BANK Railroads came slowly to Indiana, which had but 45 miles as late as the year 1845. But now the State is crossed in every direction by their lines, including nearly 7,000 miles of track, assessed at $65,000,000. At Indianapolis, Fort Wayne and various other points, the rail ways converge like wheel-spokes, the great routes from the Mississippi Valley to the Atlan tic coast intersecting the north and south lines. The Monon Route (the Louisville, New- Albany & Chicago Railroad) from Chicago to Kentucky and the South, traverses the entire length of the State. The Wabash & Erie Canal, from Toledo to Evansville, 476 miles, is the longest in the Union, part of it being held by slack-water navigation on the Maumee and Wabash. The section between Lafayette and Fort Wayne has fallen into disuse. The Whitewater Canal runs from Lawrenceburg on the Ohio to Hagerstown. Finance. — The true value of property in Indiana is not far from $ 1 , 800, 000, 000, and the public debts of all kinds fall below $20,000, 000. The Bank of the State of Indiana for many years controlled the finan cial policy of this region, and its Indianapolis branch (opened in 1857) was the oldest banking corporation in the capital city. After a successful career this institution, in 1865, became merged into the Indiana National Bank, with the same men as officers and the same lines of business, and the added advantage of a national-bank charter. The resources of the Indiana National Bank now reach nearly $4,000,000. The capital paid in is $300,000, and there are $425,000 in the surplus fund and undivided profits. Since Volney T. Malott's accession to the presidency, in 1882, the business has quadrupled, and the stock has risen to a high figure, while the bank has grown to be recognized not only as the largest National bank in the State, but also as one of the strongest and most conserva tive, yet progressive and energetic institutions of Indiana. The Manufactures of Indiana have increased over 1,000 per cent, in invested capital and yearly products, since i860. They number above 8,000, with 70,000 operatives and a capital of $65,000,000. Much of this increase is due to the discovery of natural gas, and its use as fuel for factories, at Muncie, Kokomo and other fast-growing cities in the "gas belt," where a great variety of manufactures are flourishing. This wonderful product of the earth is piped to 75 cities and towns, and results in a saving of above $5,000,000 a year, besides being cleaner and more easily manageable than other fuel. It is also in gen eral use for heating and lighting dwellings, and for other domestic purposes. If the sup ply of natural gas is not exhausted, it will be of immense value to Indiana, and cause the development of large manufacturing interests. An idyll of industry appears in the story of the Studebaker Bros. Manufacturing Com pany. The brothers composing the firm were originally two ; afterwards two more were added : and three years ago the number was re duced by the death of the younger brother, leaving as the leading members of the company, Clem Studebaker, president, J. M. Studebaker, vice-president, and Peter E. Studebaker, treasurer. The business was started in South Bend, in 1852, on a total capital of $68, together with a thorough knowledge of blacksmithing, which the brothers had learned at their father's forge in Ohio. During the first year the output was two wagons ; now 1 , 500 workmen and numberless ingenious machines, which per form the work faster and vastly better than ¦^>- SOUTH BEND: STUDEBAKER BROS- MANUFACTURING CO. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 243 SOUTH BEND : STUDEBAKER BROS. MANUFACTURING CO. it could be done by hand, are employed in the manufacture of all grades of vehicles, from the two-wheel road-cart up to President Harrison's state landau. The wagon-works and lumber yards at South Bend cover 93 acres ; the car riage-works, at South Bend, cover four acres ; and the repository and factory for fine carriage-work in Chicago has a front of 105 feet on Michigan Avenue, and a height of eight stories. The Chi cago house is the most elegant building of its kind in the world, and all the other factories are substantially and handsomely built of brick, far exceeding in size and extent any other vehicle concern on the globe. Notwithstanding this fact, the increased demand for Studebaker vehicles, which roll in nearly every county of the United States, while thousands have also been sent to South Africa, Australia, Mexico, South Amer ica, and other foreign countries, has made necessary additions to the South-Bend works which will approximately double the present productive capacity. The company was incorporated in 1868, with a capital stock of $75,000. The capital stock was increased in 1875 to $1,000,000, which is at this time supplemented by a large surplus. The opening up of thousands upon thousands of additional acres to cultivation has called for the service of myriads of plows, and one of the foremost suppliers of these has been the Oliver Chilled Plow Works, at South Bend, where a thousand men are employed, on a plant covering 42 acres. The business was founded in 1855, by James Oliver, an Indiana iron-master, who recog nized the great need of plows at once cheaper and better than those then in use, and, after years of ex perimenting, invented the chilled plow, now so fa mous. The outgrowth of Oliver's little foundry is the largest and best-planned plow-factory in the world. The chilled plow saves the country scores of millions of dollars yearly, in the cost of plowing ; and immense savings are also made in Europe and Africa, Asia and Australia, South America and Mexico, to all of which the Oliver plows are exported. Mr. Oliver was born in Liddes- dale, Scotland, and brought up in Indiana ; and many thousands of his plows are in use in Scotland to-day. The company also makes a large line of steel plows, besides a variety of riding plows ; and with hundreds of styles and sizes is well equipped for prairies and hill-sides, vineyards and cotton-fields, lowlands, clay and sandy soils, Texas black lands and South- American pampas. The Dodge Manufacturing Company, at Mishawaka (on the L. S. & M. S. and G. T. R. roads) has a ground plant of 80 acres, with a floorage of 16 acres, lumber yard of 12 acres, and a daily capacity of 600 pulleys. This company has the remarkable record of having origi nated two of the most noteworthy ad ditions to the mechanics of this gen eration, viz.: the "Independence" Wood Split Pulley and the "Ameri can System of Rope Transmission," which now constitute the specialties "^VSSS^^g? ';-;"?5^5^fN§3*ilPSltSJ of their manufacture. The manufac- mishawaka : dodge manufacturing company. SOUTH BEND : OLIVER CHILLED PLOW WORKS. 244 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NDIANAPOLIS : KINGAN & CO. , LIMITED. ture of the "Independence" pulley commenced in 1884, and it has now attained a world-wide celebrity, and in this country it has become the standard of excellence. Its peculiarities are: 1. the compression fastening to the shaft, with out set screws or keys ; 2. the system of inter changeable bushings, whereby every pulley may be adapted to any shaft. The American sys tem of Rope Transmission substitutes a single endless rope with uniform tension, for the du plicate ropes and uneven tension of the English system. By this system power may be transmitted in any quantity without regard to distance or direction and without loss from slip. Both the pulley and the rope transmission are the subjects of numerous patents. The development of the pork-packing industry during the time of the civil war induced the foundation of many large establishments in this line. Among these was Kingan & Co ., Limited, whose business began in 1863, and has since grown into large proportions. Its head quarters are in Belfast, Ireland, where an Irish provision business is conducted ; and there are branch houses at Kansas City (Kan.), New York and Richmond, Va. • The works at Indian apolis cover 1 3J acres of ground, occupied by a large and valuable plant, including all the latest appliances for successfully conducting the business. A thousand men are employed here. Hogs are bought at local stockyards, brought in by farmers from Indiana and Illinois chiefly. These hogs are manufactured into hams, sides, shoulders, pickled pork and lard, and concomitant products, for all of which this firm enjoys an enviable repu tation, in all parts of the world. Kingan & Co., with their extensive ramifications, are said in vol ume of business to rank second only to Armour & Co., of Chicago, in this important industry. The road-carts used throughout the world are made by the Parry Manufacturing Company of Indianapolis. This establishment dates only from 1882 ; but has rapidly attained such a development that now it enjoys the distinction of being the greatest producer of road-carts in the world. Its works cover 13 acres of floor space in the heart of the city, and employ a thousand men, and have a capacity of 1,300 finished road-carts a day. The yearly product is 200,000 light, strong and durable road-carts. The welding is done by electricity, and the forging by natural gas. The wood used is second-growth hickory. These airily graceful Parry carts carry one or two riders with the greatest ease. The Parry Company also has a large department devoted to the manufacture of road and spring wagons, for which there is a continuous demand from all over the western country, and elsewhere. The settlement of the West and South has called for the erection and equipment of great numbers of flour-mills; and back in 1851, Ellis Nordyke & Son founded a company to supply these mills with their machinery. This business is now carried on by the Nordyke & Marmon Company, whose works at Indianapolis cover 13 acres, and employ 600 men. Here is made machinery for mil ling flour and corn, oatmeat and hominy, and for grain-elevators, and the roller process in flour-mills. This house was one of the first to build flour-mill machinery by machinery, and put up mills complete by contract. It has produced a great number of im- INDIANAPOLIS : PARRY MANUFACTURING COMPANY. INDIANAPOLIS : NORDYKE & MARMON COMPANY. THE STATE OF INDIANA. 245 INDIANAPOLIS : INDIANAPOLIS CABINET COMPANY. provements in milling outfits, and its small portable mills are extensively used. They are found in nearly all of the States, East, West, North and South, to gether with the Nordyke & Marmon scalpers, flour dressers, crushers, shellers, degerminators, dryers, purifiers, and all other machines and tools used in milling. This establishment is the largest and most successful in the country, devoted exclusively to the flouring-mill industry. The largest exclusive office-desk-making estab lishment in the United States is that of the Indian apolis Cabinet Company, at Indianapolis, founded in 1870, and incorporated in 1880. Their saw and veneer mills and other works cover five acres, and employ 400 men, making 60 desks a day. The company has several scores of agents, in the chief cities between Halifax and San Diego, and large warehouses in London. Fully half their product is exported, and the states men and merchants of India, China and Japan, of Cape Colony and Natal, do their work at Indianapolis desks. The United-States Government buys about 2, 500 of these desks every year. All the South- American republics have supplied them to their legislators; Honduras and Panama receive large consignments, also ; and the Mexican Palace is equipped with over a hundred of these desks. The demand from London necessitates weekly shipments thereto. The great virtue of Indianapolis desks (especially for tropical countries) is in their built-up construction, with several pieces of wood glued together, with the grain of one crossing the grain of another at right angles, so that the unified table-top or writing-bed cannot shrink or warp or season-crack. One of the abounding and beneficent uses of the great corn crop of Indiana and adjacent States is found in the manufacture of a variety of delicious food-preparations, like hominy, grits, clean meal and corn meal, corn flour and pearl meal. Among the leading establishments in this department is the Hudnut Company (capital, $1,000,000), with large plants at Terre Haute and Mount Vernon (Indiana) and Pekin (Illinois), occupying ten acres and employ ing 275 men. They receive daily about 40 car-loads of corn, and every day turn out 3,000 barrels of white corn goods. This output is sent to all parts of the United States and the Old World, and supplies millions of tables with nutritious and palatable food. The company was established in 1852, by Theodore Hudnut, who is now its president. With its several mills, it is recognized as the largest and most celebrated manufacturer of white corn products in the world. This company is the largest single user of corn for any purpose in the whole country. The Hudnuts in 1880 were the first to utilize the roller process for corn goods. The extensive works of one of the branches of the American Wheel Company are situated at Terre Haute, and employ a large number of skilled workmen. Another branch of this Company is at Fort Wayne. The Woodburn Sarven Wheel Works, at Indian apolis, are also controlled by the American Wheel Co. The making of plate glass presented in superable difficulties to American manufac turers, until W. C. DePauw entered upon it, about 20 years ago, embarking in this business the large capital and valuable ex perience of a long and successful career. TERRE HAUTE : THE HUDNUT COMPANY. 3 ''^ TERRE HAUTE I AMERICAN WHEEL COMPANY'S WORKS. 246 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW-ALBANY : NEW-ALBANY WOOLEN MILLS. The works thus established at New Albany cover 30 acres of ground, and rank among the largest industries in Indiana, and the largest glass-works in America. The plant repre sents an expenditure of $2,000,000, and a business of $2,000,000 a year, extending from New York to San Francisco. Its yearly capacity is fully 2,000,000 feet of plate-glass, 150,000 boxes of window-glass and 30,000 gross of fruit jars. Sheets of polished plate-glass 150x220 inches in area are made here, and much fine and heavy glass for mirrors. There are 132 pots in the New-Albany works and 32 in the Louisville factory, whose product of rough plate-glass is sent to New Albany to Be ground and finished. All manner of labor-saving devices are in use, steam-elevators, special water-works, electric lights, and surface and elevated railroads, and the great furnaces, never allowed to cool, make from the fine sand of Indiana glass which has no superior in the world. The property is now owned by the heirs of W. C. DePauw, and leased and operated by the W. C. DePauw Co. The New- Albany Woolen Mills are said to be the largest works of the kind west of the . Alleghany Mountains. They were founded in 1861, and grew by degrees from small begin nings, until now they have a capital of $400,000 and a large surplus. The product includes fine cotton warps, for the jeans mills of the Southwest ; flannels and blankets ; and army kerseys, adopted by the United- States Government as the standard grade. The mills are sub stantial brick structures, equipped with machinery of the latest and best pattern. Among the directors are N. T. and C. W. DePauw, who carry forward the investment made here by the Hon. W. C. DePauw, the eminent business-man, glass manufacturer, and philan thropist, and benefactor of the University at Greencastle. The products of the New Albany Woolen Mills are highly esteemed by the dry -goods trade throughout the country. The natural-gas belt of Indiana has given rise to several bright manufacturing cities, prominent among which is Kokomo ; and 22 miles distant, at the very heart of the gas-belt, is the growing city of El wood. These cities possess the largest plate-glass works in America — the Diamond Plate-Glass Company. The two plants form the greatest single industry in the State, and have arisen with wonderful rapidity, and reached immediate success ; probably, owing to the fact that the natural advantages have been acquired by a group of business men , of national eminence in the manufacturing world, who have gone into these enterprises with abundant evidence of faith. The two plants cost $2,500,000, and the buildings cover nearly 25 acres, and give employment to 2,000 skilled operatives. By reason of its natural gas and „ — - „..,__ m other natural advantages, and its fine r| transportation facilities, the Diamond ppSjf Plate-Glass Company has found an im mediate market for its entire out-put, which goes to all parts of the Union. The quality is found to be fully equal "-£' I1 to the best French plate-glass, and the Kokomo plate-glass has already become famous for mirrors. Both Kokomo and Elwood have already reached the development of much older cities, in their pretentious public buildings, and schools, churches, water - works, paved streets, electric lights, street-cars and other requisites. £ t'-^-Jt '-'-.- r --¦"'¦,¦ ¦ '- '-.. — 1 KOKOMO AND ELWOOD : DIAMOND PLATE-GLASS COMPANY. c(MloriJ\0£r)CY MEAF. MU'5KQfi£fc_. mmMmmom •n 5Sffil JiUL, kTERRITOR^ HI5T0R Y The Indian Territory was a part of the Louisiana Purchase from France, in 1803 ; and at that time the present use of this region was suggested by President Jefferson : "To give estab lishments in it to the In dians of the eastern side of the Mississippi, in exchange for their present country." President Monroe, in 1824, deplored the evils growing out of the dwelling of the Indians in the Gulf States, their rapid degradation, bloody feuds, and the frequent conflicts between the State and National jurisdictions. He recom mended that' the tribes should be moved beyond the Mississippi. In 1830, during Jackson's administration, Con gress authorized their transfer, at the cost of the Govern- 'ment, to the unorganized part of the Louisiana Purchase, including the Indian Territory. Here they were established on tracts proportioned to the size of each tribe, with titles vested in them, and ample protection. The pledges of the United States to ' ' forever secure to them or their heirs the country so exchanged with them" have been repeatedly broken, and will contmue to be disregarded. Kansas has been wrested from them ; and for ten years the rising tides of colonization have beaten against this domain of the Indian Territory, and only the presence of active bodies of regular- army troops along the borders has prevented its permanent occupation by myriads of white settlers. Before the' Secession War, the civilized tiibes were wealthy and prosperous, with large farms and plantations, and a lucrative trade with the Southern cities. But during the war thousands of the Indians enlisted and fought in the Federal and Confederate armies ; and at its close the tribes were reduced to poverty. Since that time they have advanced notably in prosperity and civilization, and now form large farming communities, with a promising degree of political, educational and religious progress. There are, however, many crimes of violence, STATISTICS. Settled at Old Agency. Settled in 1827 Founded by . Creek Indians. Ceded by the United States to the Indians, Population in 1890 {U. S. Census),Five Civilized Nations, Indians, . Colored, . White, Reservation Indians, . Banks, . . Area (square miles), U\ S. Representatives, Militia (disciplined), . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . Newspapers, . ... Latitude,Longitude, Temperature, Mean Temperature 1829 186,300177,682 52,0651-1,224 107,987 8,708 3 31,400 33°35' to 37° Nr. 94°20' to 980 W. 12° — to 990 58° TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. Lehigh,McAl ester, Krebs,Muscogee, Turcell, Vinita, . Tahlequah, Ardmore, . Atoka, . Eufaula, 3, coo 3,000 3,000 2,0002,OQO I, SCO HERD OF BISON. Practically, how- 248 AVNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. largely committed by white intruders, and the Indian courts have not been endowed with enough authority to repress them. Statesmen are striving to restore United- States control here, and erect a territorial government, to abate the ignorance, crime and savagery rampant, and to do away with the anomaly of a group of alien governments in the heart of the Republic. Their plans contem plate replacing the reservations by fee-simple grants in severalty ; but the influence of the chief men in the Five Nations is strongly opposed to this movement. They claim that holding land in severalty is a remnant of barbaric European feudalism, tending to monopoly, and that now every Indian can occupy and enjoy some part of the tribal domains. ever, there are many rich men in the tribes, possessing great tracts of land, by virtue of their permitted ownership of the improvements thereon. Their criminals, until 1876, the Chero- kees cither hanged or whipped. In the other civilized tribes criminals are now either shot to death or whipped. Among the Creeks a thief thrice convicted is shot .to death. Descriptive. — The Indian Territory covers over 20,000,000 acres (a larger area than Maryland or South Carolina), with fertile and well-'watered rolling prairies, diversified by abundant timber and rich river valleys, and the great oak-forest of the Cross Timbers, forty miles wide, and running from Texas northward to Kansas, with gigantic trees rising from an alluvial soil of remarkable fertility. The broad Arkansas River and its tributaries, the North and South Canadian, Cimarron, Little Arkansas, Neosho, and Verdigris, and the Red River and its affluents on the south, water the Territory in almost every part. The Arkansas is navigable by steamboats in high-water from Fort Gibson to the Mississippi ; and steamers ascend the Red River along nearly the entire southern boundary. One of the chief natural endowments of the Territory is its coal-measures, covering 13,600 square miles, and producing a valuable bituminous coal, great quantities of which are mined every year. Iron and lead, copper and gold, marble and sandstone are found in various localities ; and salt appears in springs and marshes. The Climate is pleasant and equable, with but little snow or cold weather ; and the spring opens in February, leading to a long and hot summer. The latitude is the same as that of northern Georgia, and well adapted for corn, cotton and fruits. Fully 400,000 acres are under cultivation in the domains of the five civilized tribes, producing yearly over 4,500,000 bushels of corn, wheat and oats, 400,000 bushels of vegetables, 60,000 bales of cotton, and 175,000 tons of hay, amounting to nearly $6,000,000 a year. They own 800,000 head of live-stock. Among other products are many thousands of woollen blankets and shawls, willow baskets, 8, 000, 000 feet of lumber, maple sugar, wild rice, fish, hemlock bark, cord- wood and wool. The Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway runs for 248 miles through the Cherokee, Creek, Choctaw and Chickasaw Nations, from Chetopa (Kan.) to Denison (Texas). The Missouri Pacific operates a line through the Cherokee and Creek Nations from Coffeyville (Kan.) to Fort Smith (Ark.), 170 miles, crossing the Missouri, Kansas & Texas at Wagoner. The St. -Louis & San-Francisco Rail way connects southwestern Missouri with Sapulpa, in the Creek Nation. The Frisco also operates a line from Fort Smith (Ark.) through the Chbc- preparing for the sun-dance. taw Nation to Paris (Texas). The Choctaw Coal & THE INDIAN TERRITORY. 249 TAHLEQUAH. Railway Company has a line from South McAlester on the Missouri, Kansas & Texas to near Caston on the Frisco. The Gulf, Colorado & Santa-Fe operates 106 miles of main line through the Chickasaw country, connecting Purcell with Gainesville (Texas). Several other railroads are chartered to build through the Indian Territory. Government. — The International Council assembles occasionally, having representa tives from the five civilized tribes and also delegates from the less advanced Indians of the western region. The last successful Council was held at Fort Gibson, in 1888, there being twenty tribes represented. This assembly favored unification of the Indian governments under a general council, for mutual protection and development, administration of justice and the better conduct of their affairs. Several unavailing attempts have been made to con vene the tribal delegates once more, but it is doubtful if another Council will ever be held, until the final one which will open the way to a higher development than is possible under the present tribal organizations. The United-States Government holds the right of eminent domain over the lands of the five tribes, the Indians being fee-simple owners, but not sovereign, though enjoying to some degree the powers of self-government. The United- States Indian Agency for the five tribes is located at Muscogee, and has jurisdiction over all persons, whether Indian or white, residing in the Indian country. Its opera tions are considerably handicapped by the United-States Courts, and the Indians have not been protected in their treaty rights by the Government for many years. Indeed, the intruding Anglo-Saxon has secured such a strong foothold that it is doubtful if the Government will ever remove the trespassers from the Indian lands. Forty-three Indian policemen are attached to the Agency. These officers are- engaged in the suppression of crime, the prevention of the introduction of whisky, and serving orders issued by the Agent. Each of the five civilized tribes is governed by a Principal Chief and a Second Chief, elected for from two to four years ; an annual legislature of two houses, elected for from two to four years; and a judiciary system. Education. — The 220 Indian schools are mainly supported by the five civilized tribes, at a yearly cost of over $300,000, and include high and common and private schools and seminaries. The teachers are mainly Indians, but the text-books are in the English language. Some of the well-to-do Indian families send their children to outside colleges, where they attain high rank. The Indian boys also receive manual training in carpentering, black- smithing, shoemaking, farming, and stock-raising : and the girls are taught to sew, knit, and make butter. The Christian religion has made great advances among the tribes, and the Baptists have 162 churches and 8, 141 members ; the Methodists, 52 churches and 8,346 members; the Catholics, 15 churches and 3,800 communicants; and the Presbyterians, 41 churches and 2,400 members ; and there are several _ smaller sects with adherents. In all, there are 317 churches, 537 clergymen, 9,206 Sunday-School pupils, and 25,000 church-members. The most murderous element in the Territory is Arkansas moonshine whisky, brewed in the Ozark Mountains, and called "white mule," because made by white men, and endowed with the destruc tive powers of the Western mule. It is illegal to sell alcoholic liquor in the Territory, as it is in Maine, but the traffic goes on, despite the strenuous ttstfBsK- . V:._ ISMS ^^^irr^^U^^^t^^^ - MOUND AT CATOOSA. 25° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. TAHLEQUAH : OLD SEMINARY. efforts put forth to stop it. The Indian population is 75,000, including 67,000 in the five civilized tribes, and 8,000 in smaller bands. There are also 60,000 whites, living here under authorization, and a much greater number without legal right. Of the tribesmen, 64,000 wear civilized garments, 45,000 speak English, and 15,000 are farmers. They own 14,000 houses and 178 churches. The Cherokee Nation in early days occupied a great part of Georgia and the adjoining States, and welcomed Oglethorpe to their shores. The inroads of white settlers upon their lands were met by terrible reprisals, and followed by wars, as a result of which the tribe was moved to the Indian Territory, beginning its settlements near Tahlequah, in 1832. . Their greatest man was Sequoyah, who invented the national alphabet. Many of the Cherokees were slaveholders, and went into the Confederate army, but a still larger number enlisted and fought in the National armies. After the war, the Southern Cherokees settled in the Canadian-River section. The seal of the Cherokee Nation shows a seven-pointed silver star, in a round red field, surrounded by a wreath proper, the whole borne on a golden shield. The Cherokee Nation numbers 30,000 persons, all of whom wear the raiment of civiliza tion, and 18,000 speak English. Nearly 4,000 live by farming, and there are no hunters. Hardly 1,000 are pure-blooded Indians, and 14,000 have more or less Anglo-Saxon blood. There are 27,000 white residents, citizens of the United States. The reservation (of 7,681 square miles) covers the northeastern part of the Territory, and is divided into nine political dis tricts, or counties. Vinita is its business centre, with thirty large stores, and railway outlets in four directions. The capital is Tahlequah, an Indian village in whose centre stands the brick council- house, with the legislative halls and executive o- rj,, , c , ... ... GRAND SALINE : DHEROKEE ORPHAN ASYLUM. offices. The volumes of laws and the constitution are printed in English and also in Cherokee. The Constitution resembles that of New York. Land tenure is according to Henry George's principle, that any one may improve vacant lands for his own use, the people being tenants in common, and acquiring exclusive rights of possession and sale of the improvements on lands that they have improved. The United-States Supreme Court has lately ruled that the Cherokee Nation is not a sovereign - state, but a ward of the Republic, which has the right of eminent domain over its lands. The Cherokee Nation has the right, by a decision of the United-States Supreme Court, to determine who are its citizens. There are nearly 5,000 adopted citizens, including 765 Delaware and 550 Shawnee Indians and 1,100 whites. White men marrying Cherokee women may become citizens of the Nation, and may be elected to all offices, except chief- tancy. All the local politicians (and there are many) belong to the ring of political societies called the Kee-to-Wah. The Cherokee National Prison is at Tahlequah. There is an asylum for the insane, blind, deaf, dumb, decrepit and poor ; and the orphan asylum, at the boil ing artesian salt-wells of Grand Saline, has 150 inmates. The Cherokees spend over $80,000 a year on education, their 6,000 children having 2 high schools, 1 10 common schools, and 1 5 denominational schools, with costly and perfectly equipped seminaries for boys and girls, where Latin, mathematics and other higher branches are taught. Teachers' institutes are held annually at Tahlequah ; ^ and nearly all the teachers are Cherokee young ladies. The girls' seminary is a hand- >HLtouAH Hu-.c*r.F mahonal rtMAM i . i : some new brick building in a park of eight THE INDIAN TERRITORY. 2S1 MUSCOGEE I INDIAN UNIVERSITY. acres, crowning a far-viewing hill near Tahlequah. Over 1 70 Cherokee maidens study here ; and those who cannot afford to pay are educated by the tribe, and boarded and pro vided with text-books. The teachers are nearly all Chero kees. The National seminary for 200 boys is also near 'Tahlequah, and its building cost over $100,000. The Advocate, the chief newspaper, is printed partly in Cherokee, and furnished free to Cherokees who do not know English. It is an official journal, supported by the Nation, and publishes the laws, and other official business. The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians have 62 churches, mainly supported by the devout Indian women. Among the chief local industries are the raising of live-stock, the growing of corn and cotton, and lumbering. The Chickasaw Nation dwelt in northern Mississippi and Alabama, until the Gov ernment moved them to the Indian Territory, where their reservation lies west of the Choc taw Nation, and borders on Texas. Near its centre are the Table Hills and Fort Arbuckle. Ardmore has valuable coal-fields. The country abounds in grain-farms and stock-ranches, orchards and forests. The Chickasaws number 6,500, including many large landholders and wealthy persons, with the reputation of sharp traders and financiers. The Supreme Court is composed of two full-blood Indians and a half-breed. The Capitol is a great brick build ing on a hill-top overlooking Tishomingo, on the Washita River. The National Legislature was convened in 1890, to reorganize the militia for defence against non-citizens. The two political parties are the so-called Progressives, under Paul, an Indian desperado, made up of some whites and a few half-breeds ; and the Pullbacks, under Byrd, including the full-"bloods and many half-breeds. The Chickasaws have 14 common schools and three academies. Full 50,000 whites dwell here. The Creek Nation of Alabama and Georgia was the most powerful Indian confed eration in America. They called themselves Muskogees. They were terribly beaten by Gen. Jackson in 181 2-1 5. In 1825 a treaty was entered into between them and the United- States Government, under which 3,000 of them voluntarily removed to the Indian Terri tory, where, in 1835, they were joined by the rest of the tribe. Here they accepted educa tion in mission-schools, and soon began recovering from the depletion caused by their migration. As a tribe, they were advancing rapidly, having an educational system of their own, when the Secession War broke out. An unsuccessful attempt was made by the Con federate Creeks to prevent the escape of the Unionist party to the Federal lines. Some hard righting occurred between them, but the latter reached a place of safety in Kansas. Since their reunion in 1866 the tribe has prospered. The Creeks occupy 5>°24 square miles of well-wooded and fertile farming land, between the Cherokees and Choctaws, with the Can- USD adian River on the south. They are devoted to cattle- raising, and also produce large crops of corn, wheat, cotton and pecan nuts. Their capital is Okmulgee, where the legislature (made up of the house of kings and the house of warriors) convenes every October ; and the Supreme Court also holds its sessions there. The- tribe numbers 14,000; and spends $80,000 yearly in sending its young men and women to schools in the States, and on its four park hill: insane and blind asylum. boarding-schools and 40 public schools, having also several CREEK COUNCIL HOUSE. 252 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. denominational schools. The Indian University, near Muscogee, was founded in 1880, under Baptist auspices, and fits young Indian men and women for the Christian ministry, and teaching. It has a handsome and commodious building. There are also at Muscogee, the Harrell Institute, of the Methodist Church South, and the Presbyterian Mission School for girls ; both prosperous schools, and reaching the adjacent tribes, as well as the Creeks. For the last 60 years the Creeks have sent numbers of their boys into the States to school, at the expense of the tribe. The Choctaw Nation formerly dwelt in southern Alabama and Mississippi, whence they were moved about the year 1830. The reservation, of 10,450 square miles, lies between the Canadian and Red Rivers, bordering on Arkansas and Texas. It is a pleasant and fruit ful country, with the Kimishi Mountains in the east, and the Sans-Bois Hills, 1950 feet high. The capital is Atoka. The school property is valued at $200,000; and the yearly expenditures for education are $83,000, divided between four boarding-schools and 170 neighborhood schools. There are also several denominational schools. A newspaper is published at Atoka. The farmers raise considerable quantities of grain, cotton and live stock. The coal-mines at McAlester were opened in 1872 by Jim McAllister, a squaw- man, and are run by the Osage Coal and Mining Company, which pays royalties to the owner and to the Choctaw Nation. The capacity of the shafts is 1,800 tons a day, and there are 80 coke-ovens. More than half of the 1,200 miners are Italians. There are large mines at Caddo, Savanna and Lehigh, with 4,000 whites at the latter place alone. The product of coal has reached 600,000 tons in a year, yielding $100,000 in royalty to the Choctaws, and $900,000 to the men in the mines. There are 15,000 Indians and colored people, and 28,000 whites, in the Choctaw Nation. The Seminole Nation, number ing 2,539 persons, was exiled from Florida, in 1842, and occupies a poor and thin-soiled reservation of 312 square miles, between the North and South Forks of the Canadian River, north of the Chickasaw and west of the Creek Nation. The capital is Wewoka, the government being by a first and second chief, andanational council of 14 "band-chiefs," at once a legis lature and a supreme Court. The Seminole finances are in splendid condition. There are but few whites among the Seminoles, who are the most peaceful and law-abiding of the Five Nations. They have five free schools and three mission-schools, and one of the finest school-buildings in the Indian Territory. The reservation Indians in the extreme northeast, among the foothills of the Boston Mountains,, include 154 Quapaws, from Arkansas ; 160 Peorias and Kaskaskias, and 137 Ottawas, from Illinois ; 288 Wyandottes, 67 Miamis and 79 Shawnees, from Ohio ; 84 Modocs, from Oregon ; and 255 Senecas and Cayugas, of the old New- York tribes. This domain is purely agricultural, mostly allotted in severalty, and crossed by the St. -Louis & San-Francisco Railroad. The future destiny of the Indian Territory is filled with uncer tainty, owing to its singularly mixed population, and the intense national spirit which has been developed in the civilized tribes. If in the course of time it shall advance to the honors of State hood, the progress of the people will be more rapid, and a , ,, prosperous commonwealth may arise, with Indian sena- 3jjjf} tors representing the ancient aboriginal clans of the Gulf gs^Hfc— - States in the halls of the American Congress, and defend- choctaw council house. ing the rights of their people. TULSA, IN THE CREEK NATION. 2,458 59 i,79-; 8,320 Z9 HISTORY. Father Marquette and Joliet visited Iowa in 1673, and passed on. The country belonged to the huge Prov ince of Louisiana, claimed and held by France, and ceded to Spain by that na tion in 1763. Given back to France nearly 40 years later, it was presently ceded by that power to the United States, together with all the western Mississippi Valley. In 1804 it belonged to the District of Louisiana, under the jurisdiction of Indiana. A year later it was added to the new Territory of Louisiana; and in 1812 it belonged to the Territory of Missouri. From 1834 to 1836 Iowa per tained to Michigan, and from 1836 to 1838 to "Wisconsin. Then the Territory of Iowa came into being, including also Minnesota and Dakota, between the Mississippi and the Missouri and White-Earth Rivers. These political changes were unknown to the inhabitants, who were mainly wild Indians — the Iowas and Pottawatomies in the west, the Sacs and Foxes in the east, and the Sioux and Winne- bagoes in the north. The Iowas were a tribe of the Dakota family, calling themselves Bahucha, and receiving the name of Iowa from their enemies, the Algonquins. They formed eight clans : the Wolf, Bear, Eagle, Buffalo, Pigeon, Beaver, Elk and Snake, each dressing their hair distinctively. The last four clans are extinct. They dwelt in northern Iowa, and owned the great pipestone quarry.: In 1803 they num bered 1,500, and defeated the Osages and Cherokees, but were mercilessly beaten by the Sioux. The chiefs Wying- waha and Mahaska (White Cloud) made treaties with the United States ; and, in 1836, the tribe was moved west of the Missouri. Intemperance and disease have reduced them to about 200 persons. The first white pioneer of Iowa was Julien Dubuque, a. French- Canadian trader, who dwelt from 1788 to 1810 among the Indians at the lead-mines, near the city now bearing his name. STATISTICS. Settled at . Burlington. Settled in , .... 1835 Founded by . . New Englanders. Admitted as a State, . . 1846 Population in i860, . . 674,913 In 1870, . . . . 1,194,020 In 1880, . . 1,624,615 White, . . 1,614,600 Colored, ... 10,015 American-born, 1,362,965 Foreign-born, . 261,650 Males,. . 848,136 Females, 776,479 In 1890 (U. S. Census), 1,911,896 Population to the square mile, 29.3 Voting Population, . . 416,658 Vote for Harrison (1888), 211,^98 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 179,877 Net State Debt, . . . . 0 Real Property, . . . $361,000,000 Personal Property, 3140,000,000 Area (square miles), . . 56,025 U. S. Representatives, . it Militia (Disciplined), Counties, Post-offices, .... Railroads (miles), . Vessels, . . . Tonnage, .... Manufactures (yearly), $70,045,926 Operatives, . . . 28,372 Yearly Wages, . $9, 725,962 Farm Land (in acres), . 25,055,163 Farm-Land Values, $567,430,227 Farm Products(yearly) $136,103,473 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . . 304,856 Newspapers, . .... 799 Latitude, . 4op36' to 43<,30/ N. Longitude, . 89° 5' to 96° 31' W, Temperature, . . . — 32 * to 1 040 Mean Temperature (Des Moines) 49° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POPU LATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890), Des Moines, . .... 50,093 Sioux City, . .... 37,806 Dubuque, 30,311 Davenport, 26,872 Burlington, 22,565 Council Bluffs, 21,474 Cedar Rapids, . 18,020 Keokuk, . . , 14,101 Ottumwa, . 14,001 Clinton, 13,619 254 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UJSTITED STATES. In 1830 the Sioux annihilated a large party of the Sacs and Foxes (including ten chiefs) on the Mississippi River, near Dubuque, and the people of those tribes fled in panic from their ancient homes. Then began the first wave of immigration, the white miners crossing at various points, and occupying the deserted villages and mines. They were ejected by the United-States troops under Lieut. Jefferson Davis, by order of Col. Zachary Taylor, who went into garrison until the formal cession of the Territory by the Sacs and Foxes. This was made in 1832, to defray the cost of the Black- Hawk War, and included the eastern strip of Iowa, 300 miles along the Mississippi, and 50 miles wide, running northward from Missouri. In 1836-7 other cessions were made. In 1842 Gov. Cham bers consummated the New Purchase, paying the Sacs and Foxes $1,000,000 for 15,000,000 acres of rich land. About 350 members of the tribe now dwell on a small reservation on the 0UBU«UE- Tama River, engaged in farming. Allured by far-spread reports of the extraordinary beauty and fertility of Iowa, immi grants crossed the great river by thousands, coming from New England and New York by the Erie Canal and the lakes, and from Ohio and Illinois, Kentucky and Missouri, by the way of the rivers. The strong set of this tide soon gave population enough for Statehood, which was for several years withheld, because the Iowans refused to accept the border-line proposed by Congress, which cut them off from the Missouri River. Dubuque, the earliest permanent village, was founded in 1833. The first settlements fringed the Miss issippi, and crept slowly up the Des Moines, followed by a similar advance along the Missouri, long afterward. The Spirit-Lake country was settled by Min- nesotansin 1856-7, but they were speed ily attacked by Inkpadootah's Sioux band, and 40 or more suffered massacre. Through much of 1858-60 the Spirit-Lake and Sioux-River settlements were pro tected from hostile Indians by the Iowa Frontier Guards. The government and diplomacy of Iowa have always been conducted with wisdom and conservatism, and the Indian tribes have been removed, internal improvements advanced, immigration and capital secured, and education richly endowed without the ravages of war or the impairment of financial credit. The State has no debt. The chief modern questions in Iowa have been the prohibition of the manufacture, im portation and sale of liquor, and the control by the State Railroad Commissioners of the rail roads. The prohibition liquor laws have been very fully sustained by the Iowa Supreme Court, and nearly all points by the United-States Supreme Court. The law is strongly entrenched in the judgment of the people, excepting in the larger cities, where a greater proportionate foreign population helps shape public sentiment adversely to the law. The reaction against prohibition, in 1889, arose from a belief in the inefficacy and inexpediency of the policy. The legislature has enacted a law giving the railway commissioners power to make such rates as they may see proper, and which, when promulgated by the BURLINGTON. DAVENPORT THE STATE OF IOWA. 255 board, shall be prima facie evidence of reasonable rates. It goes farther, and empowers them to compel joint rating and joint billing of freight between two or more lines of road. This legislation has given Iowa lower rates than any of the surrounding States. The local jobbers and manufacturers have profited largely by it, and are enabled to meet the competi tion of the jobbing houses of the large cities as they have never been able to do before. As a result, Des Moines, Sioux City, Ottumwa, Cedar Rapids and the Mississippi-River cities, Dubuque, Davenport and Burlington, have become extensive jobbing centres. The Name of the State, according to Le Claire, the famous half-breed interpreter, means, "Here is the place to dwell in peace." This definition is now generally accepted as the best. Others derive it from Ah-hee-oo-ba, "The Drowsy Ones." Shea says that Ajawa meant "Across," and was applied by the Algonquins to the tribe beyond the Miss issippi River. Another account says that the word signifies "Gray Snow," because the Iowa tribe separated from its parent tribe, the Omahas, during a winter storm, when the white snow was mingling with the gray sands of the shore. Iowa is often called The Hawkeye State. The name first appeared in James G. Edwards's Fort-Madison Patriot, of March 24, 1838 : ' If the division of the Territory is effected, we pro- I pose that the Iowans take the cognomen of ' Hawkeye. ' Our etymology can then be more definitely traced than that of the Wolverines, Suckers, Gophers, etc. , and we rescue from oblivion a memento, at least, of the name of the old chief, Black Hawk." Mr. Edwards moved his office to Burlington, and founded the Hawkeye news paper, now one of the most influential in the West. The Arms of Iowa show a sheaf and a field of standing wheat, with a sickle and other farming utensils ; on the left side, near the bottom, a lead-furnace and a pile of pig-lead ; on the right side, the citizen-soldier, standing before a plough, supporting the American flag and liberty-cap with his right hand and a gun with his left. The Mississippi River is in the back-ground, with the steamer Iowa under way. An eagle appears above, holding in his beak a scroll, with the following inscription : "Our liberties we prize, and our rights we will maintain." This device was adopted in 1847. The Secretary of Iowa wrote to Admiral Preble : ' ' This State has no State flag other than the Stars and Stripes, a large interest in which she claims." The Governors of Iowa have been : Territorial — Robert Lucas, Chambers, 1841-5; James Clark, 1845-6. State — Ansel Briggs, 1846-50; stead, 1850-4; James W. Grimes, 1854-8; Ralph P. Lowe, 1858-60; wood, 1860-4 and 1876 ; William M. Stone, 1864-8 ; Samuel Merrill, 1838-41 ; John Stephen Hemp- Samuel J. Kirk- 1868-72; C C. Carpenter, 1872-6; Joshua G. Newbold (acting), 1876-8; John H. Gear, 1878-82; Buren R. Sherman, 1 882-6 ; William Larrabee, I Descriptive. — Iowa is in the great prairie-belt, and between the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, whose water-shed in the northwest, the Plateau du Coteau des Prairies, is 800 feet high, falling away to the southeast, with short and rapid streams, the Chariton (250 miles long), Nodaway (200), Grand (300), Nishnabotna (220), Little Sioux (300), and Big Sioux, flowing bluffs of the Mississippi. 256 A'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. EAST 0K0B0JI LAKE. to the Missouri ; and other rivers, the Des Moines (550), Skunk (275), Cedar (400), Iowa (375), Wap- sipinicon (200), Maquoketa (175), Turkey (160), and Upper Iowa (150), running southeast to the Mississippi. These watercourses begin in broad and shallow valleys, and then flow through bluff-bound bottom-lands, in and around which are the chief woods in the State. The Missouri at Council Bluffs feet higher than the Des Moines at Des The waters of Iowa abound Moines, and 425 feet higher than the Mississippi at Davenport, in pike, bass, sturgeon and catfish. The Missouri bottoms from Missouri to Sioux City are 1 50 miles long and from five to 20 miles wide, and of unwearying fertility. The valley of the Upper Iowa is narrow and picturesque, and bordered by bluffs 300 feet high. The scenery along the Mississippi is of great beauty, with bold bluffs and headlands all the way from Keokuk to Dubuque and the Minnesota line. The deep blue of the mighty river contrasts effectively with the limestone cliffs and verdant hills. Above Davenport the stream attains in high water a width of two miles, with countless sandy and wooded islands adorning its placid surface. Above Dubuque the bluffs attain noble proportions, and show stratifications like masonry, so that they simulate Cyclopean walls of sheer white rock. At other points, the shores are roofed with green, and resemble the broad downs of England. The chief national work in Iowa is the canal around the Des-Moines Rapids, where the Mississippi falls twenty- four feet in twelve miles, over a rocky bed. At high water steamboats may pass up or down without difficulty, but at low water the canal is used. It is nine miles long, and cost in the vicinity of $4, 500, 000. Navigation is possible on some of the Iowa rivers, but the interlacing of railroads in every direction makes it of little value on the minor streams. SIOUX CITY : CORN PALACES OF 1889 AND 1890. In the northwest, 1,400 feet above the sea, are scores of beautiful crystalline lakes, like those of Minnesota, with gravelly beaches, and varying greatly in size. This region affords good hunting and fishing, and is much visited in summer. The favorite locality is Spirit Lake, 14 miles around, with heavy forests along the west, and several minor lochs on the east, including the beautiful East and West Okoboji lakes, each two leagues long, and united by a narrow strait. They are of great depth, and surrounded by picturesque hilly and wooded shores, along which nestle summer lodges and cottages and large hotels. The name of Spirit Lake is a translation of Minne-wakan, the ancient Sioux title. Walled Lake, also in northern Iowa, extends over 2,800 acres with its clear, cold waters, hemmed in by a singular dike of stones, six feet high and from five to 15 feet wide, around which grows a half-mile belt of oaks. The lake is higher than the surrounding lowlands. Clear Lake and Storm Lake cover several square miles, and rest in the open prairie. The former is a favorite locality for camp-meetings and Sunday- school conventions, and summer-cottages. A sum mer-resort recently opened is Bluff Park, on the high marshalltown : soldiers' home. bluffs at Montrose, where a magnificent view of the THE STATE OF IOWA. 257 MISSOURI-RIVER VALLEY. Mississippi can be had, looking north. At this point the river widens out and is dotted with islands. Across the river is Nauvoo, once the home of the Mormons. The Iowa Chautauqua has also met at Colfax, near the famous mineral springs, and within view of the golden dome of the capitol. The Iowa prairies are not flat, but undulating, with graceful curves and rounded outlines, and an exhilarating jocund air and a wealth of floral beauty. Many of them are .fringed by shore-like woodlands, with promontories and islets of dark forest thrown into the delicate green of the plain. Less than one per cent, of this great State, nearly as large as Ireland and Scotland together, is unadapted to agriculture. There are neither swamps, deserts nor mountains. Most of Iowa is covered with a heavy dark drift loam, over a foot deep, and of marvel ous richness, the choicest part of the State being the parallel valleys of the Des Moines and Iowa. The northern lands are of less value. The bluffs of the west are of yellow siliceous deposits, immensely deep and very fertile, with unusually picturesque outlines. The tireless fertility of the prairies is partly due to the old Indian custom of burning them over every autumn. In the course of centuries the soil became almost a bed of wood ashes. The great frontier rivers are bordered by bottoms from one to ten miles wide, hemmed in by bluffs ; and in the north oak-crowned mounds and hills rise over the rolling grassy plains. Above the bluffs the undulating table-lands extend for vast distances, natural meadows of unrivalled beauty, covered with coarse but nutritious grasses, and adorned with roses, jessa mines, violets, and other wild flowers. Here and there occur pleasant groves and hazel-thickets, giving an agreeable diversity to the peaceful scene. The western part has less woodland than the east, but much progress has been made in tree-planting all over the State. The timber product is valued at $3,000,000 a year, and has in the past included vast quantities of black walnut. The geological history of Iowa records a long-past time when it was part of a lake 500 miles across, traversed by the Missouri. After unnumbered ages its muddy bed was upheaved, and now forms the prairies, its fine siliceous powder enriched by vegetable remains. Farming. — Small grains and vegetables abound all over the State. Corn flourishes in the south and along the valleys, especially of the Nishnabotna and Nodaway ; wheat, in the Cedar-River country ; and vegetables on Muscatine Island. The blue-grass region of the southwest and the wild prairies export vast quantities of baled hay, and support some of the best American live-stock, with large dairy products, horse-farms, and abundant fruits. It is a lovely pastoral country, dotted all over with pleasant villages and hamlets, and abounding in crystalline streams. Johnson and Muscatine counties are famous for their great herds; and the Mus catine watermelons have a wide reputation. More than half the inhabitants of Iowa are farmers, and the results of their labors exceed $365,000,000 yearly. The crop of corn has reached 322,000,000 bushels in a year ; of wheat, 37,000,000 ; of oats, 80,000,000; of rye, MORMON MONUMENT AT MT. PISGAH. NDEPENDENCE : HOSPITAL FOR INSANE. 258 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 2,000,000; of barley, 5,000,000; of potatoes, 20,000,000. Over $3,000,000 worth of fruit has also been raised in a year. In Iowa corn is king, and is glorified in the great Corn Palace at Sioux City, an immense castellated structure built yearly, and covered outside and decor ated inside with corn. Iowa produces more corn than any other State, having passed Illinois and Missouri by many million bushels. The canneries of Iowa put up yearly more than 7,000,000 cans of corn and 1,500,000 of tomatoes, besides other food-products. The produc tion of hay, for a year, has exceeded 7,000,000 tons (two thirds timothy, and the rest prairie- grass), with 200,000 bushels of seed, the entire product standing at $33,500,000. The Blue- Grass Palace at Creston annually typifies this industry. These vast crops are produced in spite of the occasional visits of myriads of locusts and other winged or crawling destroyers (jiow less numerous than formerly), and of the multiplication of thievish English sparrows. The damage wrought to the crops of Iowa by chinch-bugs has reached $20, 000, 000 in a single year (1887). Iowa is the foremost State in producing swine, with 4,200,000 head, valued at $28,000,000, and including many Chester- Whites, Poland-Chinas, and Berkshires. It is the second State for milch cows (1,200,000), and other cattle (2,100,000), with thousands of short-horns, Herefords, Polled-Anguses and Jerseys, the whole valued at $80,000,000. In horses it stands third, with over 1,000,000 head, worth $74,000,000, and including several thousand pedigreed draft-animals, Percherons and Clydesdales. The trotting stock of north eastern Iowa has a wide fame. Sheep-raising has fallen off very much, partly on account of the ravages of dogs. There were 1 , 500, 000 sheep in 1867, but 20 years later these had been reduced to 270,000. The amazing richness of the deep alluvial prairies of the Missouri Valley in Iowa is especially manifested in the successful growing of corn and live-stock. Broad areas of Iowa, Wis consin, Wyoming, Utah, Minnesota, Nebraska, and the Dakotas find at Sioux City their great packing centre, where their cattle and hogs are slaughtered and dressed for consumption. The investment in this packing plant exceeds $3,000,000, and the total value of its yearly product is $30,000,000. 4The immediate cause and direct strength of these packing houses is the Union Stock-Yards, covering 250 acres, with every possible accommodation for receiving and feeding live-stock. Over a million head reach these yards yearly, and they are mainly of high grade, yielding dressed products of great excellence. Already through the intervention of this establishment Sioux City has won the rank of the fourth pork-packing centre of the world, and its investments in this industry are increased yearly. The Union Stock-Yards Company of Sioux City has a capital of $2, 500,000, and it has been regarded as a successful enterprise from the start. Iowa is the second State in the production of butter (52,000,000 pounds), and fourth in cheese (1,500,000 pounds) ; their aggregate (with milk) reaching $15,000,000. The poul try and eggs mount up to $5,000,000 yearly, and are sent all over the Northwest. The Climate is very healthful. The winter seasons are severe but equable, with almost continuous north and north west winds sweeping across the prairies. In summer the constant west and south winds impart a fresh life to the air, so that, though the heat is greater than in New England, its effects are less op pressive. The autumns are clear, warm and dry ; and the perfume of the prairie fires then overhangs some of the rural COUNCIL BLUFFS : CHAUTAUQUA UNIVERSITY. feS^- SIOUX CITY ; UNION STOCK-YARDS. THE STATE OF IOWA. 259 CEDAR RAPIDS : MASONIC LIBRARY. counties. The singular purity and dryness of the air makes Iowa a sanitarium for people suffering from lung-diseases. Minerals. — There are 20, 000 square miles of bituminous coal deposits, which are worked at Des Moines, Centreville, Ottumwa, What Cheer, Oskaloosa, Moingona, Fort Dodge and elsewhere. It is a fat and close-burning coal, with much water. The 400 mines employ 12,500 men, producing yearly from 3,500,000 to 4,000,000 tons of coal. The coal-measures extend across all the southern counties up to the middle of the State, but the most valu- jfillR'^tsfi! able mining region is the Des-Moines Valley, from Keokuk to Fort Dodge. The veins are from three to eight feet thick, and within 100 feet of the surface. The Coal Palace at Ottumwa typifies this industry. Northern Iowa contains 30,000 acres of peat-bogs, in beds from four to ten feet deep, and of excellent quality. In the northeast great quantities of lead and zinc are found, in pockets in the limestone. At one time $1,000,000 worth of lead was shipped yearly from Dubuque, but this industry is now nearly quiescent. Iron has been found in small deposits. Iowa also produces coral limestone, dolomite, sand stone, and other valuable building stones, in great quantities. Iowa marble was chosen for the entrance-hall to the Boston Public Library. Large quantities of lime are made at Fort Dodge, Springvale and Mitchell. The gray gypsum of Fort Dodge covers 18 square miles, with a thickness of 25 feet. The potters' clay and fire-clay of Iowa give material for scores of large potteries and brick-yards. The State has 128 quar ries, employing 2,000 men. Government. — The Governor and executive officers are elected by the people for two years. The General Assembly meets biennially, and includes 50 senators and IOO representatives. The Supreme Court has five justices, elected by the people for six years. The State Capitol, dedicated in 1884, cost nearly $3,000,000. It has a foundation of Iowa boulders, upon which rises a superstruc ture of yellow and gray Missouri stone, covered by a dome 295 feet high, over a grand rotunda. It is enriched by colored marbles, frescoes and carved mahogany. The State penitentiaries are at Fort Madison (330 convicts) and Anamosa (260). The Iowa Industrial School, with 109 girls at Mitchellville and 367 boys at Eldora, removes children from vicious surroundings, and places them under proper instruction and discipline. Iowa has hospitals for the insane, on large farms, at Independence (700 inmates), Mount Pleasant (760), 'and Clarinda ; and her insane convicts are incarcerated at Anamosa. The for Feeble-Minded Children at Glenwood has over 400 in- College for the Blind at Vinton includes primary, and high-school courses, and has 180 students. The Industrial Home for the Adult Blind is an efficient charity at Knoxville. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb at Council Bluffs has 400 patients, and is carefully administrated. The Soldiers' Home at Marshalltown, opened in 1887, has 274 inmates, and the Soldiers' Orphans' Home at Davenport shelters 300 children. _;,,'' j .iifMag: Education in its common schools costs Iowa nearly fflftjjt^ijiriiliiii, $6,000,000 yearly, most of which comes from local ¦--"'.*., - *"*' taxes. The permanent fund is nearly $4,000,000. The ames : iowa agricultural college. school property is valued at over $12,000,000. There GRINNELL : IOWA COLLEGE. 260 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. LUTHER COLLEGE. are 25,000 teachers, four fifths of them women. Educational matters are the especial pride of Iowa citizens, and the utmost care is given to the preservation and up-building of the public schools. Standing as she does in advance of her sister States, with respect to the least degree of illiteracy among her citizens, it is not strange that the fertile prairies and beautiful towns and cities of Iowa are abundantly supplied with well-kept school-houses, nor mal schools and colleges, and well-trained and thorough* instructors afford ample opportunities for higher instruction. "A school-house on every hilltop" is an adage which all Iowa proudly recites as representing the condition of the State's public-school system. The State Normal School at Cedar Falls has 540 stu dents ; and there are private normal schools at Davenport, Des Moines and Dexter, and other places. The University of Iowa was nominally founded in 1847, and opened in 1855, moving two years later into the old State Capitol. After a suspension, the University recommenced in i860, with 172 students, and now has a yearly income of $44,000 (outside of tuitions). Orphans of Iowa soldiers and two students from each county are taught free. The main building is the handsome old State Capitol, of cream- colored limestone, with a dome overlooking many leagues of rolling prairie and the Iowa valley. The campus occupies ten acres of oak-groves and openings, on a high ridge. The University has nine departments : The college, classical, scientific and engineerimg courses ; the law school, founded in 1868; the medical school, 1870 ; and homeopathic, dental and pharmaceutical schools. It is co-educational, and has 2, 500 graduates. The Iowa Agri cultural College, near Ames, was founded in 1869, with the Congressional land-grant, and has 27 instructors and 300 students (including 80 girls). It owns a domain of 900 acres, and costly and well-equipped buildings, but grievous internal dissensions, long retarded its de velopment. Iowa College was opened in 1848, on the New-England plan, its founders being mainly ministers from the East. It moved from Davenport to Grinnell in i860, and then admitted women to its varied courses. The central position, healthy location, and strong religious influences of Iowa College have won popular favor. There are 540 students en rolled, more than half of whom are in the academy and the conservatory of music. Tabor College was founded in 1857 by the Congregationalists. Lenox College is a Presbyterian institution at Hopkinton, and so is Parsons College at Fairfield, and Coe College, a pros perous institute, at Cedar Rapids. The Luther College at Decorah is the largest Norwegian school in the Union. Griswold College was founded by Bishop Perry, at Davenport, over looking the Mississippi. University of Des Moines (1866), the Central University of Iowa (founded in 1853), and Burlington University (1853), are small Baptist institutions. The Methodists control Upper Iowa University, founded at Fayette in 1857 ; Iowa Wesleyan University, founded at Mount Pleas ant in 1852 ; Simpson College, founded at Indianola in 1861 ; and Cornell College, founded at Mount Vernon in 1857. The Christians own Drake University, at Des Moines. The Friends conduct Whittier College, founded at Salem in 1867, and Penn College, at Oskaloosa. The Manufactures of Iowa show yearly products valued at $70,000,000. Along the Mississippi extend the great saw- mills, of which Iowa has 300, with a yearly product ex ceeding $6,000,000. Clinton possesses one of the largest saw-mills in the world, capable of sawing 60,000 feet of lumber an hour. There are flour-mills, with a yearly product of $20,000,000; meat-packing establishments, yielding $11,000,000 yearly; and manu factories of agricultural implements, wagons, furniture, woolen goods, and boots and shoes. DES MOINES : POST-OFFICE. THE STATE OF IOWA. 261 & St. -Paul south lines, Burlington, Almost the sioux city: first congregational church. The Railroads of Iowa make her map appear like an intricate lace-work. The five great lines of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy; the Chicago, Rock-Island & Pacific; the Chicago & Northwestern ; the Illinois Central (Iowa Division) ; and the Chicago, Milwaukee cross it from east to west, and are intersected by several north and the Central Iowa, Minnesota & St. -Louis, Sioux-City & Pacific, Cedar-Rapids & Northern, and Chicago, St. -Paul & Kansas-City. whole State was at one time covered by railway land-grants. Chief Cities. — Des Moines, the capital of Iowa, occupies the site of the old Fort Des Moines, a United-States garrison from 1832 to 1837 (and then the remotest outpost on the north west frontier), in a lovely valley of the corn and blue-grass belt, guarded by sloping hills and rich in coal-mines. Among its products are wire-fencing, carriages, pork, and cotton and woolen goods. It is one of the leading railroad cen tres of the country, and has a large jobbing-trade. Fort Dodge was founded in 1850, by veteran troops of the Florida wars, to check the hostile Sacs and Foxes, and garrisoned until 1853. Keokuk, "the Gate City," has a pleasant site on a high bluff, in a long curve of the Mississippi, at the foot of the Lower Rapids. In 1840, there were a dozen huts here, surrounded by a deep forest, where seven railways now converge, in a city of iron-foundries and meat-packing houses. Fort Madison was built in 1808, and several times attacked by the Indians. It is now a busy shipping-port. Burlington, a pleasant city in "the garden of Iowa," dates from 1833, and was named for a Vermont town. It has a large volume and great variety of manufactures. There are ten lines of railway converging here. Davenport is a thriving city on the bluffs opposite Rock Island, with a costly bridge across the Missis sippi. It is the centre of an important onion-raising district, and has a large jobbing trade. Dubuque is an active city on the Mississippi, with the terminals of five railroads, a business of $40,000,000 yearly, large grain and lumber trades, and works where steel steamboats are made. It occupies a plateau nearly surrounded by high bluffs. Muscatine crowns the bluffs in a great westerjy bend council bluffs : court-house. of the Mississippi, and rejoices in large lumber and meat-packing industries. Turn- ing from the Mississippi to the Missouri, another tier of cities comes into view. | Council Bluffs lies not far from the old meeting-point of the Indian tribes ; and here the Mormons tarried from 1846 to 1849, while on their w^y to Utah. For many years it was the last village in civilized America, and here California emigrants and trappers procured their outfits before entering the Indian country. It lies across the Missouri from Omaha (Neb). Six railways running west from Chicago here meet the Union Pacific line, and others diverge to the north and south. The city has fine public build ings, newspapers, stock-yards and elevators, and a wholesale trade of $33,000,000 a year, covering a wide area of the Mis souri Valley. Sioux City, a flourishing manufacturing and railroad centre, davenport : scott-co. court-house, and withal a lovely city of homes, was laid out in 1854 at the 262 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SIOUX CITY : SIOUX national bank. bend of the Missouri, and covers a wide area of rich farming country with its commerce. It has extensive meat-packing works and manufactories, including one of the largest flaxseed-oil mills, using 2,000 car-loads of flaxseed yearly. Over 25,000,000 bricks are made here yearly, and vast quantities of stoneware. During 1887 the territory tributary to Sioux City was 57 days without rain, and yet the average yield of corn to the acre was 76 bushels. This wonderful condition, illustrative of the resistance of the Iowa soil to drouth, created the thought of some festival commemorative of such condition, and the corn palace of 1887 was erected, followed by others in 1888, 1889, 1890, the centre of the great harvest festivals of the northwest. Sioux City shows intense activity in building, in development of every character, and in new manufactories. Cedar Rapids has a large water-power on the Cedar River, with machinery and carriage-factories, great oat-meal mills, pork-packing establishments, and 25 wholesale trading-houses at the crossing of several railroads, and in a rich dairy country. It has the only Masonic Library Building in the West, and the largest Masonic library in the world. Among other important towns are Ottumwa, Clinton, Marshalltown, Creston and Waterloo. ' Finances. — The peculiarly advantageous situation of Sioux City, in the heart of the best corn-growing region of America, and the unusual enterprise of its citizens and mercantile com panies, have contributed toward making the rising metropolis an important financial centre. The volume of banking business is so great that it has been found necessary to organize a clearing house, whose transactions already surpass those of any other Iowa city. The foremost of the financial institutions is the Sioux National Bank, the largest national bank not only in Sioux City but in the whole State of Iowa. It has already re sources of over $1,800,000, and has declared a full score of good dividends, and its business is incessantly increasing. Ever since its foundation, the Sioux National Bank has been a valu able help to the undertakings which have been springing up around it, and has advanced its own cause and the general interests of the city with wisdom and foresight. Already the exceptional energy and activity of this northwestern metropolis of Sioux City have accumulated here a large capital for banking and investment ; and in order to regu late and safely place these great sums of money the Union Loan and Trust Com pany was found- Jfc ed at Sioux City, in 1885. This corporation has a paid-up cash capital of ^% $1,000,000, and resources of $2,000,000 ; and has paid semi annual dividends of five per cent, ever since its organiza tion, never having lost a dollar by bad debts. Its net earnings are about $200,000 a year. The Union Loan and Trust Company handles a large amount of commercial paper, and municipal, corporation and school bonds ; and receives funds for investment, paying interest on the same until invested. Under skilful and conservative manage ment, with George L. Joy as president, this institution has become a well recognized financial power in the rich and fast-developing country tributary to Sioux City, and has an honorable past, and a promising future. SIOUX CITY : UNION LOAN AND TRUST CO. a:WiifpiF . r> l^i 1 tnjit £*7 : e^^n j SIOUX CITY ! Y. m. C. «. BUILDING. HISTORY. Deep in the inmost heart of America, the virgin prai ries- of Kansas lay fallow for centuries, haunted by a few roving bands of wild In dians and traversed by in numerable herds of buffalo. As early as 1541, however, Francisco Vasquez de Coro- nado commanded a Spanish expedition which marched from Mexico to the northern boundary of Kansas, in search of gold and silver. The route of Coronado was through the counties of Barber, Kingman, Reno, Harvey, McPherson, Marion, Dickinson, Geary, Riley, Pottawatomie, and Ne maha — a due northeast line. Coronado says he traversed "mighty plains and sandy heaths, smooth and wearisome, and bare of wood. All that way the plains are as full of crooked-backed oxen as the mountain Serena in Spain is of sheep." This is the first authentic account of the buffalo. The French fur-traders from Louisiana and Canada estab lished a station in Kansas, as early as 1705, and thencefor ward for nearly a century these gallant chevaliers held little" commercial posts within the prairie regions. After DuTis- senet explored the Missouri Valley, in 1719, for France, the Spaniards at Santa Fe sent an expedition across the Plains to seize upon the country in advance. Encamping at Leavenworth, they endeavored to ally themselves with the Missourias, then at war with the Pawnees, but 2,000 painted warriors fell upon them in the night, and massa cred every man, except a tonsured priest, who was re leased and sent back to Santa F6. The greater part of Kansas came to the United States by the Louisiana Pur chase. The southwestern corner was included in the Re public of Texas. So part of the State came from France, and part from Spain. Kansas Territory when first organized included that part of Colorado east of the crest of the Rocky Mountains. Among the first Americans to visit this region were the expeditionary forces of Lewis and Clarke, in 1804, and Major Long, in 1819. The STATISTICS. Settled at . Fort Leavenworth. Settled in , 1850 Founded by . Western Americans. Admitted as a State, . ,. 1861 Population in i860, . . 107,206 In 1870, . 364i399 In 1880, . . . 996,096 White, . . 952,155 Colored 43.941 American-born, . . 886,010 Foreign-born, . 110,086 Males, ........ 536,667 Females, 459,429 In 1890 (U. S. Census), 1,427,096 Population to the square mile, 12.2 265,714 182,904 xi, 102,745 $244,000,000 8)109,000,000 82,080 7 1,990 1,816 8,770 $30,790,212 12,064 $3,999,599 21,454,476 S235.i78,936 Voting Population, Vote for Harrison (18 Vote for Cleveland (1 Net State Debt, . . Real Property, Personal Property, Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, Militia (disciplined), . Counties, . . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . . Manufactures (yearly), Operatives, Yearly Wages, Farm Land (in acres, Farm-Land Values, Farm Products (yearly), $52, 240,301 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 244,697 Newspapers, ... , . 807 Latitude, . . . 370 to 400 N. Longitude, . 94°35' to 1020 W. Temperature, . . . — 29° to 1080 Mean Temperature (Leaven worth), . 500 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). Kansas City, 38,316 Topeka, 31,007 Wichita, 23,853 Leavenworth, . 19,768 Atchison, . .... 13,963 Fort Scott, 11,946 Lawrence, . . . 9,007 Hutchinson, . . 8,682 Arkansas City, . . 8,347 Abilene (estimated), 5,000 LEAVENWORTH : STATUE OF GRANT. 264 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. overland trade on the Santa-Fe trail began in 1 823, and the outward-bound traders rendez voused at Council Grove, until trains were made up strong enough to beat off the Indians on the perilous route of 800 miles. The caravan of i860 contained 6,000 men and 2,000 wagons. A fort was erected on the Missouri to protect this trade, in 1827, and received the name of Col. Leavenworth, of the Third United-States Infantry, then in garrison. This became an important point during the Mexican War and the Californian and Mormon migrations. The troops led to the conquest of New Mexico marched hence across the Kansas prairies; and in 1849-50 90,000 Argonauts moved westward toward Cali fornia, bidding farewell to civilization at Fort Leavenworth. The Missouri Compromise of 1 820 provided that the part of the Louisi ana Purchase lying north of 360 30" (Missouri being excepted) should he exempt from human slavery forever. Arkansas came into the Union as a slave State, and Iowa as a free State, under this agreement. But when the question of Kansas arose, a bitter struggle set in between the anti-slavery and pro- slavery parties in Congress and in the Territory. The Kansas- Nebraska Act of 1854 re pealed the condition about slavery, and left it for each commonwealth to settle for itself whether its soil should be free or slave. Two great hostile tides of immigration began to flow into the disputed territory, one composed of Pro- Slavery men from Missouri and the South, and the other of Free-Soil colonists from New England and the Middle States. For a time it was not possible for the latter to pass across Pro-Slavery Missouri, and so "Lane's Trail" was formed through Iowa and Nebraska ; and over this circuitous route thousands of Free-State men poured into Kansas. A terrible civil war ensued, lasting for several years, and the new country was ravaged by Jayhawkers, Kickapoo Rangers, Blue Lodges, Regulators and other armed bands. Lawrence, Osawatomie and other towns were sacked ; hundreds of men were killed in battle, or assassinated ; armies of thou sands, with artillery, moved up and down the country ; and ' ' Bleeding Kansas " aroused the pity of the world. Eli Thayer, Amos A. Lawrence and others formed the New-England Emi grant-Aid Society, with $1,000,000 capital, and sent out many fearless volunteers, armed with Sharp's rifles. The Pro-Slavery party under Atchison and Lecompte held their quar ters at Atchison and Leavenworth ; the Freedom party, under John Brown, Conway, Lane and Robinson, centered around Lawrence and Topeka. The convention at Wyandotte, in 1S59, produced a constitution forbidding slavery, and the people voted for it, 10,421 to 5,530, thus settling forever the vexed question which had caused so much sorrow and bloodshed. Kansas furnished to the United-States army nearly one sixth of her population, in 17 regiments (largely of cavalry), and three batteries. The State sent into the field 20,097 men, being 3,433 above her quota. Frequent forays were made from the adjacent insurgent regions ; and the country, already bitterly harried in the Wakarusa War and John Brown's War, suffered new ravages from the gray cavalry of the South. August 21, 1863, the guerilla Quantrell, attacked Lawrence, an un armed town, at daybreak, and slew 143 citizens in the streets, be sides destroying $2,000,000 worth of property. The settlers of Kansas were the bravest men from North and South, coming hither to fight for the hostile principles of Free Soil and Slavery. When the ten years' war had ceased, these tried veterans turned their energies to the material development of the State, exploring, exploiting and cultivating everywhere. In 30 years the population increased twenty-fold. WICHITA : COURT-HOUSE. TOPEKA : GRACE CHURCH CATHEDRAL. THE STATE OF KANSAS. 265 The Name of the State is an Indian word. The Bureau of Ethnology says that Kan sas is a Siouan word, which has been used : 1st, as a tribal name ; 2d, as the name of a Kansa gens, part of which are real Wind people ; 3d, as the name of an Omaha gens, Wind people. The thus appears a certain south- people ; and 4th, as an Osage gens, Wind people, and South-Wind name also appears in personal names, meaning eagle or wind. It that the word has reference to wind, and may apply specifically to wind well-known locally. In the old days Kansas was known as The Jayhawker State. One autumn, in 1856, Pat Devlin, a Free-State Irishman, rode into Osawatomie. "Have you been foraging, Pat?" "Yes, I've been out jayhawking. We have a bird in Ireland we call the jay- hawk ; it worries its prey before devouring it." In 1861, , Col. Jennison called his rough-riding soldiers "Jayhawk- ers, " and the name soon came to be applied to all Kansans. wichita ; fairmount college. Kansas is known as The Sunflower State, on account of the abundance and luxuriance of these flowers, which are native to her prairies. The Arms of Kansas represent a prairie landscape, with buffalo pursued by Indian hun ters, a settler's cabin, a river with a steamboat, and a cluster of 34 stars. The motto is Ad Astra Per Aspera, "To the Stars Through Difficulties," alluding to the troubles that Kansas endured while endeavoring to become a State. The Governors of Kansas have been : Territorial: Andrew H. Reeder, 1854-5; Wilson Shannon, 1855-6; John W. Geary, 1856-7; Robert J. Walker, 1857-8; Jas. W. Denver, 1858; Samuel Medary, 1858-60; Geo. M. Beebe, 1860-1. State: Chas. Robinson, 1 86 1 ; Thos. Carney, 186 1-4 ; S. J. Crawford, 1864-9 > James M. Harvey, 1869-73; Thos. A. Osborne, 1873-7 > George T. Anthony, 1877-9; Jonn p- St- J°hn> l879~83; Ge°- W' Glick, 1883-5 5 John A. Martin, 1885-9 ; an(i Lyman A. Hum phrey, 1889-93. Descriptive. — Kansas is the central State of the American Union, the eighth in area, and the second in extent of arable soil. It is considerably larger than all New England ; twice as large as Ohio; and about equal to Great Britain. Its length is 408 miles; and its breadth 208 miles. Kansas is midway between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and between Manitoba and the Gulf of Mexico. Its vast undulating plain rises from the south to the north, and from 750 feet above the sea, on the east, to 4, 000 feet high on the northwestern frontier. This great inclined prairie is dotted with woodlands, and indented by the broken valleys of hun dreds of streams.' From the billowy bluffs the view includes rolling prairies, grassy hills, and lines of trees fringing the hidden rivers. The prairie forms a succession of long rolls, WICHITA : CITY HALL. above the c 0 1 0 ring tense un- and easy or waves, from 1,000 to 5,000 feet from crest to crest, and from 25 to 80 feet intervening valleys, usually resting in a bath of brightness, with the rich deep of the blue-black earth, the tender green of the wheat-fields, and the in ruffled ultramarine of the sky. The soil is free from stones, very fertile of cultivation. In the southwest there is a tract of sandhills, 100 miles long and three miles wide, once shunned by every one, but recently developed as grazing territory. The Flint Hills lie east of Wichita ; the Gypsum Hills, west of Medicine Lodge ; and the Blue Hills, between the Solomon and the Saline. The Gypsum Hills form a long-drawn region of red clays and rocks, cut into singular cliffs and spires, and capped with a thick layer of gyp sum. The plains are diversified by a few natural curiosities, like Monument Rocks, Castle Rock, Medicine Peak and the Twin Buttes, in the northwest ; the Rock City, Perforated FORT RILEY : OGDEN MONUMENT, THE CENTRE OF THE UNION. 266 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. THE GYPSUM HILLS. Rock, Pulpit Rock, and Table Rock, in the centre ; the pic turesque Pilot Knob, near Leavenworth, and the mounds along the Marmaton and the Verdigris. The centre and north are traversed by the Kansas River (400 miles long), formed by the confluence of the Smoky- Hill and the Repub lican, each with its net-work of creeks. The Smoky-Hill flows from Colorado as a little sandy arroyo, gaining in power as it moves eastward, under green and yellow shaly banks and hills of white and buff limestone, and through pin nacles of Dakota sandstone. On the plains of Saline County it receives the Saline (200 miles long), and the Solomon (250 miles), flowing from their sharp little canons in the northwest, between low cliffs of blue and orange shale and chalk. The Republican River runs from Colorado around through Nebraska, having a course of 400 miles. The Big Blue runs 125 miles from its Nebraska fountains to the Kansas River, around the rocky hills at Manhattan. The Missouri forms the eastern frontier for 150 miles, some times half a mile across, and again narrowing to a thousand feet, and everywhere navigable. The Arkansas River flows for 440 miles through the State, with a sandy bottom and many islands, a shallow reddish-colored stream, between low and bare banks. The rivers have a fall of but 7+ feet to the mile. This easy grade affords facilities for artificial irrigation, which are availed of in the west and southwest. The Cimarron waters much of southwest ern Kansas ; and the Verdigris, Neosho and Marais-des-Cygnes and their myriad tributaries water the southeast and east. Steam boats have ascended the Arkansas River into Kansas, and the Kansas River to Junction City, on the Smoky- Hill Fork, but, strictly speaking, none of the streams, except the Missouri, is navigable. Since 1883 the western counties, once regarded as unavailable for farming, and used only by the stock-raisers, have been oc.cupied by many homesteaders. The garden city : herd of buffalo. vast herds of buffalo that formerly traversed these high and treeless plains have vanished. A herd of 50 buffalo is kept on a ranche, near Garden City. The United-States Experiment Station at Garden City has shown that by pulverizing the soil, and covering it at first with matted wheat-straw, crops can be raised without irrigation on these arid lands. The Climate is pleasant, in spite of the sudden and extreme changes. The winters are mild and dry, although the thermometer sometimes registers extreme cold. The heats of summer are moderated by the prairie breezes, and by the almost unfailing coolness of the nights. The rapid radiation of heat into a clear and cloudless sky from these elevated plains causes a delightful change at nightfall. The high plateau of the western border has a lower temperature than eastern Kansas, with a dry, bracing and rarefied air. The winters else where are short, and ploughing is done in November and February. The hot winds of sum mer sometimes bring disaster to the crops. North of the long water-shed between the Kansas and the Arkansas the climate is markedly cooler, and wheat thrives well. West of ioo° the rainfall is below 20 inches in a year. The Farm-products reach a value of $140,000,000 a year, and the valuation of the farms is above $450,000,000. It garden city ; united-states experiment station. is one of the important agricultural States, 'THE STATE OF KANSAS. 267 A KANSAS STOCK-RANGE. with its glorious wheat carpets along the uplands in June, and the wealth of corn and sorghum which August brings. The average yearly corn- crop of 1877-8-9 was 88,000,000 bushels, which rose in 1884 to 191,000,000, valued at $40,- 000,000. In 1888, 5,600,000 acres produced 169,000,000 bushels, valued at $52,000,000; and in 1889, 6,800,000 acres produced 274,- 000,000 bushels. The wheat-crop rose by 1880 to 25,000,000 bushels yearly, valued at $21,- 000,000, and in 1884, to 48,000,000 bushels, falling again below 6,000,000 in the drought year of 1887, and then rising once more, to 35,000,000 bushels in 1889. The crops of oats in 1877-8-9, averaged 14,000,000 bushels yearly; and in 1888 reached 55,000,000 bushels. Potatoes rose from 4,000,000 bushels in 1880, to 11, 500,000 bushels in 1889. The hay-crop includes yearly 2,200,000 tons of prairie-hay, 1,000,000 tons of millet and Hungarian, and 700,000 tons of tame grasses, valued at $14,000,000. The prairies also produce buckwheat and barley, rye and tobacco, flax and hemp, and sweet and white potatoes. Kansas yields 40,000,000 pounds of broom-corn yearly, 122,000 bushels of castor-beans, and 645,000 pounds of cotton. The most reliable crop of southern Kansas is sorghum, for sugar, syrup or forage. The State pays a bounty of two cents a pound on this sugar, and the product of i88q reached 1,500,000 pounds, besides 5,000,000 gallons of syrup. The chief factories are Scott, Topeka, Douglas and Conway Springs. Within a brief period the of raising beets for sugar has attained great proportions, and $2,000,000 is invested in the beet-sugar factories. Kan sas has upwards of 20,000,000 fruit-trees, and her peaches, apples, cherries, pears and plums, and small fruits, are famous for their size and flavor. The yearly dairy-products include 30,000,000 pounds of butter, 500,000 pounds of cheese, $600,000 worth of milk, and Bees are kept on many farms, and store up im- MANHATTAN : STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. ,800,000 worth of poultry and eggs. mense quantities of honey from Kansas flowers. Forty million acres of Kansas soil are in grass, supporting an enormous number of domestic animals, including 750,000 horses, bred up with fine Clydesdale and Percheron, Norman and Kentucky stallions ; 100,000 mules, highly valued in farming operations ; 800,000 milch-cows, improved by admixtures of Here ford and Galloway, Holstein and Jersey stock ; and 2,000,000 other cattle. The live-stock of Kansas is valued at $150,000,000. Horses and cattle show a steady increase for 20 years, but sheep have decreased from 1,200,000 in 1884 to 300,000 now (the State has 160,000 dogs); and swine have fallen off from 2,000,000 in 1885 to 1,600,000. The herdsmen of Kansas are favored by abundant pasturage, copious water, and short win ters. The great stock-yards and packing-houses of Kansas City, Kansas, have built up an astonishing business, by which millions of people who rarely eat good meat before are now KANSAS CITY : THE KANSAS-CITY UNION STOCK-YARDS. 268 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. A PRAIRIE FARM. supplied plentifully with dressed beef, while the canned cooked beef is shipped to the four quarters of the globe. During the year 1890, 1,472,229 cattle, 76,568 calves, 2,865,171 hogs, 535,869 sheep, and 37,118 horses and mules, in 108, 160 cars, were received at these stock-yards, and of these animals over 3,000,- 000 were slaughtered, 1,600,000 sold to ship pers, and 320,000 sold to feeders. A small part of the yards is in Kansas City, Missouri ; but most of their area and their intricate lines of railway, are in Kansas City, Kansas. There is but one city in the world which surpasses, as a live-stock market and meat-packing centre, this metropolis of the Sunflower State. Most of the famous Kansas-City packing houses are in the Kansas part of the town. They employ a capital of $8,000,000, and have an annual output of $17,000,000, including 260,000,000 pounds of bacon and 140,000,000 pounds of fresh beef, and 60,000,000 pounds of lard and tallow, canned and mess beef. The Kansas-City Stock-yards were founded in 1871, and now handle over $75,000,000 worth of live-stock yearly. The Geology of Kansas indicates a slow uplifting from under the sea, leaving the strata nearly horizontal. The rocks abound in fossils — the mastodon, the elephant, giant horses, rhinoceroses, camels, sharks, pterodactyls, crocodiles, redwood trees, palms and huge ferns. There are zinc and lead mines in Cherokee County (at Galena, or Short Creek), with 23 smelters at Pittsburgh (Kansas), the second zinc-producing city in the Union. The export of these metals exceeds $800,000 a year, and has now aggregated $9,000,000. The coal-fields cover 17,000 square miles, from the eastern border west to Wichita and Beloit, the strata being nearly horizontal and without faults. The Cherokee vein, three feet thick, and 30 miles long, occurs from the outcrop to 1 20 feet down, and employs the best machinery and methods in the State, in its mines at Scammonville, Weir City, Pittsburgh, Frontenac and Litchfield. The Fort-Scott, Leavenworth, Pleasanton and La-Cygne mines also produce an excellent coal. Osage and Franklin counties have several mining plants. The Kansas coal is bituminous, and nearly free from sulphur, and has value for smelting and gas-making. Gas-wells are found in the coal country, at Wyan dotte, Fort Scott, and Paola, where this fuel is used in manufacturing. In western Kansas occur beds of brown lignite, from three to seven feet thick, used for fuel by the prairie farmers, and worked from drifts in the hillsides. New discoveries of mineral treasures arc made from time to time under the prairies, and among the hills of the eastern counties, but the cereal wealth of the farm-lands will always be the chief source of wealth, in spite of the mortgage-companies and their heavy taxes on the farming community. The smelting- works at Kansas City are among the largest in the world, and new extensions of their operations are continually going forward, so that this locality bids fair to become more and more important in this regard, being favorably placed centrally between the mines and markets. The Consolidated Kansas-City Smelting & Refin ing Company, with a capital of $2,000,000, has its main office at Kansas City (Mo.), and its works at Argentine (Kan.), With branch smelters at Lead ville (Col.) and El Paso (Texas). This enormous Arkansas city. LAWRENCE '. HASKELL INSTITUTE. ARGENTINE I CONSOLIDATED KANSAS-CITY SMELTING AND REFINING WORKS. THE STATE OF KANSAS. plant refines gold and sil ver, lead and copper, from the ores of all the princi pal mining-camps and ore- markets of the United States and Mexico. The yearly output of these smelting and refining works exceeds $18,000,000 ; and furnishes one fifth of all the silver and lead smelted in the United States. The Consolidated Company employs over 2,500 men, of whom 400 are at Argentine, running eight blast-furnaces in the smelting of ores, and a large number of desil verizing, cupelling and concentrating furnaces, in the refining of the metals. The total num ber of blast furnaces at the three establishments is 21. Central Kansas is of the Triassic period, with extensive and easily-worked beds of gray, white and cream-colored dolomite, or magnesian limestone, which is sawed and planed with ordinary carpenters' tools, and hardens with exposure. This beautiful material has been extensively used in Kansas buildings. Gypsum quarries are also found in this region, the stone bejng sometimes compact enough for building material. At Solomon City, salt is produced from salt-wells. Beds of rock-salt over 100 feet thick underlie the central coun ties. The works at Hutchinson can produce 5,000 barrels daily, from deposits of rock-salt ; fresh water being forced down to the beds, and when saturated being pumped into tanks and evap orated. Salt is made at other points, being in demand by the pork- packers. There are extensive salt-marshes, covered with a brilliant white incrustation of salt for thousands of acres ; and plains of crystallized salt from six to 30 inches thick are found south of the Great Bend of the Arkansas, where broad saline ponds have dried up. Forty thousand square miles of west- " ern Kansas is of the Cretaceous period, with valuable white and cream chalk quarries in the bluffs. Hydraulic lime and valuable hydraulic cement are found in abundance, with topeka : post-office. beds of pure salt in the southwest, and mines of lignite near the Colorado line. Chalk is found in the Smoky-Hill Valley, in a belt over 30 miles wide and nearly 200 feet thick. Wa-Keeney has extensive chalk-works. There are 9,000 square miles of Pliocene marl formations in the northwest, overlaying Miocene grit, under which occur deep strata of Niobrara and Fort-Benton limestones and Dakota sandstones. In this region are found the so-called coralline and colored marbles, and jasper and Kansas agates. The Government consists of a governor and executive officers, elected every two years ; a biennial legislature of 40 senators and 125 representatives ; and supreme and district courts. The Capitol at Topeka will have cost not far from $2,500,000. The eastern wing was built in 1866-73 > an combined, the training of young horses, and the drilling of recruits for the (,:£';'•¦..,,. , , \. mounted service. There are eight companies in garrison, this fort being the headquarters of the famous Seventh Cavalry. Close to Fort Riley is the geographical cen tre of the Republic (excluding Alaska). The West- b;)J ern Branch of the National Home for Disabled Volun teer Soldiers was opened in 1886, and contains over 1,800 inmates. It has long ranges of barracks and other buildings, in a beautiful and extensive domain on the Missouri River, near Leavenworth. The Home band gives open-air concerts every Sunday. The United-States Military Prison for the Army, at Fort Leavenworth, contains 500 convicts, enlisted men who have been guilty of serious misdemeanors. They are held under rigid discipline ; and manufacture boots and shoes, harness and furniture, and other articles for army use. About a thousand Indians remain in Kansas, under the Pottawatomie and Great Nemaha Agency, besides many who are wandering free. They have long forgotten the art of war, and obtain a comfortable subsistence by tilling their fields and raising stock. Their better methods of living and caring for the sick have checked the mournful death-rate of the tribes, and they are already showing a marked increase of numbers. Five hundred members of the Prairie Band of Pottawatomies occupy 77,000 acres northwest of To- |>g peka; 226 Kickapoos dwell seven miles from Netawaka ; 165 Iowas and 80 Sacs and Foxes occupy 24,000 acres in the northeast; and 75 Chippewa and Munsee (or Christian) Indians are near Ottawa. Haskell Institute, at Lawrence, contains 400 boys and 1 50 girls, ' from 34 tribes, and gives them a thorough industrial training. It was founded by the Government in 1884, and is the second In- ' dian school, in point of size. Chief Cities. — Leavenworth is beautifully placed on the Missouri, which is crossed by a great steel bridge. It was for many years the chief city of Kansas, and has a large manu facturing and shipping business, with capital local institutions. An heroic bronze statue of Gen. Grant was unveiled in 1889 at Leavenworth. Kansas City, Kansas, is separated from Kansas City, Missouri, by the State line, through the middle of one of its streets. It is the largest city in the State, and stands on the Missouri River, at the mouth of the Kansas. Its stock-yards and packing-houses do an immense business. Topeka, the capital city, occupies a pleasant rolling prairie on both banks of the Kansas River. It is a large milling-centre, and has manufactures with a yearly output of $10,000,000. It is also an important railway centre and distributing point. The notice able features are the wide-paved streets, ex tensive electric street-car service, free public schools and colleges, public library, and handsome churches. Lawrence is a lovely little New-England city on both sides of the Kansas River, with its broad Massachusetts Avenue, the University buildings on Mount Oread, and a large country-trade. It has a valuable water-power, with growing manu factures. Wichita, the metropolis of south ern Kansas, dates from 1870, and grew so leavhiworih: ,.a„o„al :.oln„:, *;,; amazingly, that it is called " The Magic Mas- LEAVENWORTH ! POST-OFFICE. 272 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. = — ¦¦r_T.i ¦¦_ 17 T5'f.:-'":3fr-~»i«*3£SS6SW^'!> ^&ii!!te^fci'#:- ^fei£^r^ erf/.- LEAVENWORTH, AND THE MISSOURI RIVER. cot of the Plains," with 60 miles of street-car lines, and factories and packing-houses em ploying 1,500 operatives. Atchison has a pleasant situation on the great bend of the Mis souri, and is rich in varied industries. Fort Scott is a busy city on the Marmaton River, with the Government su gar-works,and gas- wells, flag stone quar ries, brick yards, and cement-works. Railroads run in seven directions from Parsons, a busy factory-town and jobbing-point. Ottawa abounds in mills, for flour, sorghum, iron, castor-oil, and furniture. Hutchinson, on the Arkansas, was founded in 1872, and has large meat-packing, sugar- making, lard-refining and salt-works. The trade-centres and chief shipping points of south western Kansas are Garden City and Dodge City, high up on the Arkansas River. Man hattan was founded by Boston and Cincinnati colonies, in 1885, and is now a prosperous and pleasant city, on the Kansas River. Abilene, on the Smoky-Hill River, used to be the local point of the overland cattle trade. It has long passed out of this era of "revolvers and canned fruit," and now holds high rank as a railway and manufacturing centre. Arkan sas City thrives on trade with the neighboring Indian Territory, and on stock-raising and the handling of grain from the surrounding farm-country. Railways. — The vast movement of corn and wheat, cattle and hogs from Kansas to the East, of hay and garden and dairy products and flour to the mines of the West, is rendered possible by a wonder ful system of railways. In 1859 there was not a mile of track in the Territory; now, there are 9,000 miles, and only four counties are outside of their lines. The first railway was begun by the Kansas Pacific line, in 1863, at Wyandotte. This was rapidly constructed through to Denver, at the base of the Rocky Mountains, a distance of 639 miles, and has since been operated by the Union Pacific system as one of the great thoroughfares of the continent. Now four great trunk lines cross the entire State from east to west. The Missouri Pacific traverses the centre of the State, clear into Colorado, and has an elaborate net-work of 'tracks all over Kansas. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe, with its 9,000 miles of track, begins in Kansas, and thence penetrates the mysterious Southwest, far into Mexico, with scores of branches. Westward, it reaches California, and lays down its freight and passengers at San Francisco and San Diego. Eastward it reaches Chicago and St. : Louis, where it joins ,""._' ¦; hands with all the _•-.-_ ' __ - .- trunk lines. The gen eral offices of this great corporation are at Topeka, and the main shops of the sys tem are also located there. M anufactures. — Kansas has 800 fac tories, employing 16,- The chief articles of FORT LEAVENWORTH : MISSOURI-RIVER BRIDGE. FORT LEAVENWORTH : THE BARRACKS. 000 operatives and turning out manufacture are flour and meats. 50,000,000 in finished products. j32I,OII 1,648,690 1.377. 179 271,451 1,589.173 59.517 832,590816,100 1,855,436 40,400 11 • 1.336 - H7 13 2,: S 1 91 ,000,000 Hidden behind the wil derness of the Alleghanies, Kentucky remained nearly three centuries after the dis covery of America, before the vedettes of civilization looked from the Cumberland Mountains westward over her silent forests. Ages had passed since the Mound Builders vanished, leaving along the rivers and plateaus great fortresses and mounds, to haunt even the present genera tion with their mysteries ; and the unpeopled country lay as a neutral belt and hunting-ground between the Dela- wares and Shawnees on the north, and the Creeks and Cherokees on the south. Kentucky was included in the royal grants to Virginia ; and from time to time her adven turous hunters and the mountaineers of North Carolina explored parts of the empty land. In 1769 Daniel Boone, John Findley and others entered this region, and remained two years. In 1770 Washington visited northeastern Ken tucky; and Col. Knox and his Long Hunters explored other parts. Harrodsburg was established in 1774; and the next year Boone founded the fort of Boonesborough, bringing to it his wife and daughters, the first white wo men to enter this commonwealth. In 1776 Kentucky became a county of Virginia. The annals of the region for many years are lurid with Indian attacks and massa cres, the sieges of the American fortified stations, and the bloody forays of the fierce northern savages and the British troops from Canada. For nearly twenty years after 1784, the Spanish gov ernment at New Orleans was engaged in a series of obscure plots with Wilkinson, Sebastian and other promi nent persons, looking toward the secession of Kentucky from the Union, and her annexation to the realms of Spain. Carondelet offered to send twenty cannon and large supplies of arms and money up the river to aid in freeing the coun try from the American power. At about the same time (1806) the mysterious scheme Settled at Harrodsburg-, in 1774 Founded by .... "Virginians Admitted to the United States, 1792 Population in i860, . . 1,155,684 Population in 1870, Population in 1880. White, Colored, . . American-born, Foreign-born, . Males,Females, . . . Population in 1890, Population to the square mile, Voting Population, . . . 376,221 Vote for Harrison {1888), 155,134 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 183,800 State Debt, less than funds in hand. Real Value, . . Si,449,ooo,ooo Banks, Deposits, . . . Savings Banks, . . o Deposits, .... . o Area (square miles), U. S. Representatives, Militia (disciplined), Counties,Cities, . . Towns . . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), Capital and Debt, Gross Yearly Earnings, 813.726,218 ichools,i3 319,022 257,407 6 123,000 360 30' to 390 6' 820 3' to 8g6 26' Colleges and Professional Public Schools, , Enrolled Pupils, . In Sunday Schools, Public Libraries, Volumes, .... Daily Papers, .... Other Papers.. Latitude, Longitude, . Temperature,Mean Temperature, . . 560 Ten Chief Cities and Their Populations (in 1890). 161,005 37.37524,938 22,355 13,02412,00010, 500 10,000 9,000 8,000 Louisville, Covington, . . Newport, . . Lexington, , Paducah, Maysville, Owensboro,Henderson, . . Frankfort, . Bowling Green, 274 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. of Aaron Burr for conquering a Southwestern empire out of Spain's colonies was under way, and the arch- conspirator enlisted many Kentuckians in his abor tive plot. The vast majority of the people and their leaders remained loyal and law-abiding, and so these strange dreams came to nought, and Kentucky in due time attained her long-denied aspirations, the honors of Statehood and the free navigation of the lower Mississippi. The Kentuckians have always been a martial race. They furnished for the War of 1812 the 7th, 17th and 28th U. -S. Infantry, besides many regiments of hard- fighting militia. To the Mexican war they sent 13,700 brave volunteers; and the monu ment to their slain at Frankfort called forth the noble poem, The Bivouac of the Dead, by Col. Theodore O'Hara, a Kentuckian officer. During the Secession madness Kentucky at first stood aside, endeavoring to remain an armed neutral State, mediating between the combatants. She was a slave-holding com munity, having the closest social and business relations with the South ; but on the LEXINGTON IN 1782. Henry Clay, was a Seces- State Guard, portion of the and Stripes, profession of 1 86 1, and the "The Dark other hand her people cherished that profound love for the Union which "Harry of the West," had spent his life in nurturing. Gov. Magoffin sionist, but the Legislature declared boldly for the Union, and armed the who were ordered to swear allegiance to the Republic. A large pro- Kentuckians entered the armies, 91,900 of them fighting under the Stars and 40,000 under the hostile colors. Disregarding the Governor's neutrality, the Confederates marched into the State, September 3d, Federals September 7th ; and Kentucky for years after became again and Bloody Ground." Unable to extend their frontier to the Ohio, the Confederates formed a line of defense across the midlands, with Colum bus and Bowling Green strongly fortified ; heavily garrisoned works on the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers ; and Zolli- coffer's army advancing from Cumberland Gap as a flying , right wing. The defeat of the latter, by Gen. Thomas, at '. Mill Spring, and Garfield's victory over Humphrey Marshall, K| at Prestonsburg, freed the eastern counties from insurgents. Grant's 17,000 men and Foote's irori-clad gunboats, after a bloody February campaign, captured Forts Donelson andLEXINGT0N : Henry, ten miles apart, on the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers, with their garrisons of 15,000 Confederates. In September, 1862, Bragg and Kirby Smith invaded the State with splendid Confederate armies, and sharply menaced Louisville and Cincinnati, but were defeated at Perryville, and driven back through Cumberland Gap. After this perilous campaign, there occurred no events of military importance, although John Morgan and his gallant Confederate horsemen made several destructive forays through the State. Since the war-flags were furled, Kentucky has made great ad vances in prosperity and wealth, building many important rail ways and beautifying her cities. The larger development of her coal and iron mines, now just beginning, bids fair to be of vast value and significance. Of late years there has been a series of bloody vendettas between families of the mountaineers of Pike, Rowan and other secluded counties, and detachments of militia have been sent up there, from boone monument, time to time, to restore a transient order. Assassinations are HENRY CLAY MONUMENT. 275 CUMBERLAND FALL6. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. of frequent occurrence, and oftentimes go unpunished, and the officers of justice escape responsibility. The Name of the State (according to Allen's Ken tucky) means The Dark and Bloody Ground. Ramsey's Tennessee translates it The Dark and Bloody Land. Moulton's New York and Hayward's Tennessee call it The River of Blood. Johnson {Indian Tribes of Ohio) and Gallatin {Indian Tribes) believe it to be a Shawnee word, meaning At the Head of a River, referring to the ancient migrations of the Shawnees up and down the Kentucky. The Arms of Kentucky, as ordered in 1792, repre sent two gentlemen shaking hands. It was intended to have had them in hunter's garb, with their feet on the edge of a precipice, but they are now shown in full dress, one in the costume of the last century, the other mod ern, and both standing in a room. As James Lane Allen says : "The Kentuckian loves the human swarm. The very motto of his State is a declaration of good-fellowship, and the seal of the Commonwealth the act of shaking hands." The motto is : United We Stand, Divided We Fall. The Governors of Kentucky have been Isaac Shelby, 1 792-6 ; Jas. Garrard, 1796- 1804; Christopher Greenup, 1804-8; Chas. Scott, 1808-12; Isaac Shelby, 1812-16; Geo. Madison, 1816; Gabriel Slaughter (acting), 1816-20 ; John Adair, 1820-4; Joseph Desha, Thos. Metcalfe, 1828-32 ; John Breathitt, 1832-4 ; Jas. T. Morehead (acting), Jas. Clark, 1836-7; Chas. A. Wickliffe (acting), 1837-40; Robt. P. Letcher, Wm. Owsley, 1844-S; John J. Crittenden, 1848-50; John L. Helm (acting), Lazarus W. Powell, 1851—5 ; Chas. S. Morehead, 1855-9 5 Beriah Magoffin, 1859-61 ; J. F. Robinson, 1861-3 ; Thos. E. Bramlette, 1S63-7 ; John L. Helm, 1867; John W. Stevenson, 1867-71 ; P. H. Leslie, 1871-5 ; Jas. B. McCreary, 1875-9 5 Luke P. Blackburn, 1879-83 ; J. Proctor Knott, 1883-7 5 Simon Bolivar Buckner, 1887-91. Descriptive. — Kentucky is larger than Portugal, or Belgium, Holland and Greece combined. Its domain exceeds those of the five western States of New England united. An area of 3,000 square miles lies in the Alleghany mountain-region, whose two western most ranges traverse the southeastern corner. Here the Cumberland Moun tains guard the frontiers of the Virginias for 1 30 miles, with Pine Mountain drawing its long, abrupt and wall-like ridge parallel for many leagues, each range being above 2,000 feet high, and running northeast. Between these great mountain-walls lies the heavily-wooded Cumberland Valley, twelve miles wide, from whose green depths the Black and Brush mountains rise still higher. It is one of the loveliest valleys of the Alleghany range, singularly isolated among strongly marked bordering mountains. Cumberland Gap, 1,675 fee' above the sea, and half a mile across, from crest to crest, cuts through the range, where Virginia and Kentucky and Tennessee join, and gives passage to a highway. Pine Gap affords a similar route over Pine Mountain, and here the Cumberland River breaks through, 960 feet above the sea. At Cumberland Falls the river plunges 65 feet over a shelving cliff, amid great beauty of mountain scenery, and near iron springs, Eastern Kentucky is underlaid by fields of coal, and covered by vast forests of white oak and ash, hickory and chestnut, hemlock and yellow pine. These wild highlands are inhabited by a race of strange mountaineers, straight and angular in frame, with colorless, intelligent features, sad in the women, fierce in the FRANKFORT : SOL- . ' ' & ,.,... .. , , ., dier8' monument, men, in manner shy but fearless, and in their lives listless and tranquil. 1824-8 ; 1834-6 ; 1840-4;1 850-I ; 276 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The greater part of the State is composed of plateaus, falling off toward the Mississippi and the Ohio, and cut by the deep and abrupt valleys of the streams, with bold bluffs and rounded slopes. In the north is the beautiful rolling country of the Blue Grass, from whose centre, at Lexington, the land falls off toward the mountains and towards the Mississippi. To the southwest lies 10,000 square miles of fertile country, famous for the huge caverns which penetrate its limestone, some of them hiding rivers, but few of which flow in day light in this region. The rains sink away in gentle depressions of the ground, and enter the underground streams. The cavern-belt runs from Carter County, in the far northeast, to the Ohio below Louisville, including hundreds of grottoes in the subcarboniferous lime stone, with many thousands of miles of underground cavern-ways. Near Litchfield there is a grotto fourteen miles long, containing hundreds of halls and avenues, and a wide and deep stream full of eyeless fish. The Mammoth Cave, near Green River, about midway between Louisville and Nash ville, is one of the most wonderful caverns in the world. It was discovered in 1809, by a hunter in pur- j^"~ suit of a bear, and has for many years attracted visitors ^sM, MIDOLESBOROUGH. CUMBERLAND GAP. from all countries. Among the hidden bases of the hills, far beneath the green forests of Ken tucky, the labyrinth of grottoes winds away for over 200 miles of avenues and corridors and cloisters, widening out into great halls, with roofs of sparry stone, and leading to the brinks of unfathomable chasms. Bayard Taylor declared this to be the greatest natural curiosity that he had ever visited. Many miles of passages have been eroded, mainly by water charged with carbonic acid, forming 226 avenues, 23 pits, and 47 domes, adorned with beautiful rosettes and flowers of rock, and stalagmites and stalactites. The first hall entered is the Rotunda, 100 feet high and 175 feet in diameter ; and beyond, the dark crypts wind away in various directions, and to scores of halls with magniloquent names. The guides lead their charges to the Floating-Cloud Room, overarched by the similitude of drifting clouds ; the Star Chamber, with twinkling constellations of white limestone points overhead ; Gorin's Dome, a sublime crag 200 feet high ; the profound chasm of the Maelstrom ; Cleve land's Cabinet, two miles long, glittering with roses and tulips and daisies of alabaster ; Martha's Vineyard, with bowers of colored stalactites in the semblance of grape-clusters ; the Pass of El Ghor, winding for two miles between wonderful limestone cliffs ; the Great Walk, paved with yellow sand and roofed with white limestone ; and many other wonders and mimicries of nature. There are deep and inky-looking lakes, Lethe, the Dead Sea, and others, some of them traversed by boats ; and rivers, like the Styx, in places 40 feet wide and 30 feet deep, and Echo River, flowing for nearly a mile with a width of 200 feet. There are several miles of navigable water on these streams, in whose depths dwell strange eyeless fish. The darkness is solid and palpable, and, together with the in- mammoth cave. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 277 ROCKCASTLE SPRINGS. tense silence, produces an abiding feeling of drowsiness. The cave is reached by a rail way branching from the Louisville & Nashville line ; and near its entrance stands a large hotel. Visiting parties usually enter at nine in the morning, with guides, and clad in cos tumes adapted for rough work. The journey is free from fatigue, on account of the pure air and even temperature ; and delicate women have emerged after a walk of six leagues without exhaustion. ¦ The atmosphere in the cave is singularly pure and wholesome, nearly devoid of carbonic acid, moisture, ozone and organic matter. The temperature, in summer or winter, remains at 590. When the outer air is warmer, a steady wind pours out of the cave ; when it is cooler, a similar draught rushes into the dark depths. Between 181 1 and 1815 great quantities of saltpetre were made here, mainly by negro laborers, who staid in side the cavern from one year's end to another. In 1843 fifteen consumptive persons went into the cave to dwell, in cottages which had been erected for their homes ; but the experiment resulted fatally for nearly all of them. The Natural Bridge of Kentucky rises thirty feet above the glen beneath, and has a span of 200 feet. Other great arches of rock occur near Hopkinsville, and in Cumberland County. Rock castle County has a wonderful natural tun nel 1,800 feet long and from ten to twenty feet high, through which carts pass from one side of Big Hill to the other, the local oxen having be come accustomed to the dark transit. In the West, between the Green and Cumberland, are the lands once called "barrens," but of late years proved to be productive. Here thousands of round-topped oak -knobs 'diversify the surface of the country. Kentucky was one of the original forest States, and two-thirds of her surface remains in woodlands, yielding a valuable product, greatly needed in the adjacent prairie regions. The trees are oak and beech, blue ash and black walnut, maples and tulips, sweet -gums and pines. Seven thousand square miles of prairies found by the pioneers between the Ohio and Tennessee have grown into deep forests, wherever uncultivated, owing to the cessation of the Indian prairie-fires. West of the Tennessee River, on the lowlands toward the Mississippi, occur broad areas of cypress, pecan, catalpa and cottonwood trees. Vast herds of buffalo and elk once roamed over the blue-grass plains, but they have long since been exterminated. The land now has a few deer, wolves, and bears, and plenty of raccoons and opossums. Kentucky is peculiarly blessed in its rivers, rising in the great Cumberland range, and passing through narrow canons and deep glens for many leagues, overlooked by castellated and cavernous rocks, and a rich vegetation of almost tropical luxuriance. The streams abound in edible fish, some of them of great size. Twenty-pound salmon and hundred-pound catfish have been caught here. The Mississippi flows along the west ern frontier for eighty miles, the avenue of a mighty com merce, but with no important Kentuckian ports. The Ohio forms the northern frontier for 642J miles, separating Ken tucky from Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. Its entire length is continually navigated by fleets of steamboats and barges. At low water the Falls of the Ohio, at Louisville, present a long series of tumultuous rapids, "the most beautiful and extensive natural cabinet of corals in the world — a reef of corals, of exquisite beauty. " At high water steamboats run the rapids, up and down. Upwards of 5,000 vessels traverse the Louisville kentucky-river high br .1 278 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and Portland Canal yearly, bearing freight exceeding 1,200,000 tons; and nearly 2,000 vessels ascend or de scend the open river here, carrying 1,000,000 tons of freight. The Big Sandy River separates Kentucky from West Virginia, and is navigable for steamboats for 26 miles, from the Ohio up to Levisa, where it breaks into the Tug Fork (140 miles long) and Levisa Fork (189 miles), which have been ascended by light-draught steamboats as far as Warfield and Piketon. These streams traverse LOUISVILLE : KENTUCKY &. INDIANA BRIDGE. a wild hill-country, where the roads are few and bad ; and are much used by push-boats, in which merchandise is transported. The Cumberland River rises in Eastern Kentucky, and winds for 700 miles down into Tennessee and back north through Western Kentucky, entering the Ohio at Smithland. It is navigable all the year as far as Nashville (192 miles) for light-draught steamboats, and as far as Burnside and the head of Smith's Shoals (529 miles) during half the year. There fs a large freight and passenger traffic, employing eight steamboats above Nashville, and eight below, on which grain and tobacco, lumber and merchandise are shipped. The Government is clearing the stream for navigation from Burnside to Pineville, near Cumberland Gap, and nearly 800 miles from the Ohio. The Tennessee River curves through the western counties, with seventy miles of navigable waters in the State, flowing out at Paducah, on the Ohio. This river may be ascended by steamers through Tennessee and Alabama to the frontiers of North Carolina. The Kentucky flows for many leagues through a picturesque gorge in the bird's-eye limestone, and has fine cafion scenery between Frankfort and Boonesborough. The river may be ascended by steamboats for 98 miles, to Oregon. The United States has spent $1,500,000 in improving the navigation of the Kentucky by locks and dams, and small steamboats have ascended at high water as far as Beattyville, 261 miles from the Ohio. A scheme once under discussion, and partly surveyed by the State, contemplated the extension of slackwater navigation from the upper Kentucky by Goose and Richland creeks to the Cumberland, passing Cumberland Gap by a mile-long tunnel, and entering Powell's River (of the Tennessee system), con necting thereafter with the Hiawassee and Savannah, and so to the sea. The Licking is 200 miles long, with 125 miles navigable, to Falmouth; and the Green is 300 miles long, two thirds of it navigable, to Greensburg. There are nearly a thousand miles of naviga tion on the other rivers, which have been extensively improved by the State and National Governments, so that rafts may descend from the mountains on the rain-tides. The mineral spring's of Ken- ' tucky have been famous resorts for health-seekers during more than half a century. The Paro quet (Bullitt County), Big-Bone ( Boone ), Olympian ( Bath ) and Fox (Fleming) are well-known saline-sulphur waters. Other lo cally popular resorts are the Bedford, Estill, White-Sulphur, and Tar Springs, and Hick man's, in Daviess County ; and the Sebree, Ohio and Rough-Creek Springs. The Blue- Lick Springs, eight miles from Carlisle, are famous all over the world for their efficacy in curing diseases of the liver and kidneys. The water can be smelt a mile away, and is agitated continually by great bubbles of gas. It is exported in large quantities. The numerous Grayson Springs, the strongest warm and cold sulphur waters in America, flow in a little half-acre glen five miles from Litchfield. Eseulapia Springs, in Lewis County, are white sulphur and chalybeate, with a hotel and cottages. Drennon's Lick, in Henry LOUISVILLE : MASONIC WIDOWS' AND ORPHANS' HOME. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 279 LEXINGTON : POST-OFFICE. County, is much visited on account of its black and salt sulphur waters. Rockcastle Springs are amid the craggy highlands of Pulaski County. Linnietta Springs, near Danville, include white and black sulphur, salt, magnesia, alum and iron waters, and are near the Blue Knobs, which overlook a vast area of the Blue-Grass region. Crab Orchard, in Lincoln County, has valuable sulphur and iron waters, and a rural hotel. The salt-licks are marshy glens containing water from springs made saline by flowing through salt-bearing sandstone. Here the wild animals used to come to lick the salt, and thousands of skeletons of elephants and musk-oxen, mastodons and mammoths have been found about these primeval mineral springs. The Climate is mild and healthful, and more equable than in the neighboring States. The rainfall varies from 45 inches, on the Ohio River, to 60 inches, at Cumberland Gap. The salubrity of the air appears in the excellence of its domestic animals, and in its men, who (with those of Tennessee) were the tallest and heaviest soldiers in the National armies, with the largest heads and chests. Epidemic and miasmatic diseases and consumption are rare, and bodily deformities almost un known. Farming was the occupation of the Virginians and Marylanders who founded Kentucky, and it continues to be the chief business, and has attained a great diversity in products. As early as 1840, this State led the Union in wheat and hemp ; in 1850, in flax and hemp ; in 1870 and 1880, in hemp and tobacco. Kentucky has always been the fore most State in the cultivation of hemp, the larger part of which goes to the New-England rope and cordage mills. The yearly product once passed 35,000 tons, but has now de clined to 7,000. The corn crop varies from 50,000,000 to 90,000,000 bushels yearly, and comes largely from the western counties — Henderson, Union, Hopkins, Warren and others. The wheat yield is 12,000,000 bushels, valued at nearly $10,000,000. Christian and Union, in the west, each yield over 500,000 bushels a year. The yearly product of oats has reached 8,000,000 bushels; that of hay, 410,000 tons. The lowlands between the Tennessee and Mississippi, among the forests of catalpa, are whitened by cotton-fields. Of the 1,271,000,000 pounds of tobacco produced yearly in the world, the United States yields 510,000,000 pounds ; Turkey and Hungary following with 120,000,000 each. The taxes paid the American Government from its manufacture since 1862 amount to $840,- 000,000, derived from 3,400,000 tons of chewing and smoking tobacco, 58,000,000,000 cigars, and 14,000,000,000 cigarettes. Kentucky alone produces nearly two thirds of the American tobacco crop, its output in 1889 reaching 280,000,000 pounds. This is com posed about equally of the Burley and dark varieties. The first is raised in the northern and eastern counties, and used chiefly for chewing and smoking, but little of it being ex ported. The dark is raised altogether in the southern and western counties, and much the greater part of it is exported. Spain, Italy, France, England, Austria, Germany, Mexico, South America and the West Indies are all large buyers, and make their purchases through the warehouses, which receive the crops directly from the farmers and country dealers. In this branch of the business Louisville is pre eminent. For nearly a century she has been building and developing it, and is to-day the great tobacco market of the world. The magni tude of her sales, the great variety of tobacco sold, and the facilities for receiving and shipping, have not only attracted large local manufactories, ¦I : BLUE-GRASS PASTURES. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LOUISVILLE : FARMERS' TOBACCO WAREHOUSE. but buyers of all kinds of tobacco from all parts of the world. The warehouses here, fourteen in number, with millions of capital, handle one third of the to bacco raised in America, the amount sold reaching in a year 135,000 hogsheads. The Kentucky tobacco crops of the past 35 years have brought the enormous sum of $300,000,000, and Louisville has sold the greater part of this, besides millions of dollars' worth from adjoining States. This interesting department of Kentucky trade . centres around the Farmers' Tobacco Warehouse, an immense and architectually beautiful six-story building on Main Street, Louisville. This is the largest and most commodious structure of the kind in America, and can store at one time 6,900 hogsheads. Tobacco is shipped here from the largest handlers. The hogsheads are taken by elevators to the sales room, or break floor, and then removed from the tobacco, which is broken by stalwart negroes in several places, whence sample bundles are taken out and placed outside the hogshead as samples. Then the sale takes place, by public auction, in the presence of from 75 to 150 buyers, American manufacturers, Mexicans and Canadians, and the repre sentatives of European government factories. The sales are of daily occurrence, and from fifty to eighty hogsheads are sbld each hour, at from $25 to $400 each. The transactions are all for cash, for in Kentucky tobacco is king, and brings direct and profitable returns. In 1 834 the tobacco trade of Louisville was confined to a single small warehouse, selling yearly 200 hogsheads, brought in from the surrounding country by wagons and flat-boats. The Farmers' Warehouse opened in 1869, and passed into the hands of the present company in 1880, since which it has advanced beyond all its competi- * tors, and sells 27,000,000 pounds of leaf tobacco yearly, under the able admin- \y7^7 © istration of President James Clarkand Vice-President Frederick H. Wulkop. Pan-American delegates were received at the Farmers' To bacco Warehouse, whose great hall bore the flags of all their nations. The world-renowned Blue-Grass region covers 10,000 square miles, and is a high undulating plateau, of great landscape beauty, enwalled by a series of abrupt ridges, Muldrough's Hill, King's Moun tain, Big Hill, and others. The soil is black or dark brown, and very rich, and by rotation of crops and careful tillage a high agricultural de velopment has been reached. Prof. Agassiz told the farmers of Massachusetts that "the question fundamental to all others in the stock business is the rock question." The rock underlying this region for 150 feet is a rotten blue fossilifer- ous limestone, rich in phosphate of lime, and of inexhaustible fecundity. This crumbling rock falls to pieces on exposure to the air, and thus continually enriches the growing crops with the best constituents. Tobacco and hemp, two crops requiring the richest and strongest soil, rise from these fields in a gigantic growth, which remains unweakened for many returning years. The native orchard grass {dactylis glomerata) still grows in the shady places, but has been run out of the sunlight spaces by the smooth-stalked meadow-grass {poa pratensis), probably introduced from England. The latter has a small blue flower ; but in reality there is no blue grass, and the origin of the name is a mystery. This strong and hardy vegetation hardly ever stops growing, but boldly pushes up even through the snows, furnishing permanent winter pasturage. The grass is a soft-folded and fine-textured green, covering the pastures in spring and autumn like a thickly matted moss. The country TOBACCO CULTURE. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 281 SPRING STATION : ALEXANDER — ' ' WOODBURN. > is one of the most beautiful in the world, with the exquisite folds of its graceful hills, the leafy roofs of the weodland pastures, the crystalline and reposeful skies, the rich harvest- fields, the broad, straight, white highways. It is supposed that the hard limestone water of this region aids in the very complete development of the bones and bodies of the animals grown here, not only the wonderful trotting-horses, but also the thousands of thorough bred cattle, Cotswold and Southdown sheep, and Berkshire hogs. It may also account for the stalwart men and beautiful women for whom these counties are famous. The improve ment of breeds of domestic animals has for many years been a subject of the most careful study and experiment in Kentucky, until it has become the great American centre for blooded stock of all kinds. The horses raised here, adding to the fine endurance of their Anglo-Virginian ancestors, the fleetness of later imported racers, win three fourths of the races in theUnited States, and combine in a remarkable de- degree speed and staying power. As late as the year 1818, a thousand-dollar bet was made that no horse could trot a mile in three minutes ; and when Boston Blue succeeded in doing this, he was sent to Europe to be exhibited as a marvel. In 1824 the record fell to a mile in 2.40 ; in 1854 Flora Temple cut it down under 2.20 ; and Maud S. has made her mile in 2.o8f. It is the hope and ambition of breeders to produce a horse that can trot a mile in two minutes, and it has been scientifically computed that a horse will accomplish this before 1900. It is natural, of course, to look to Kentucky for that horse. Lexington is the greatest horse-market in the State, and every spring-time dealers in fine horses assemble here from all parts of the country, to attend the annual auction-sales, whose proceeds amount to several millions of dollars. The thorough-bred trotters and runners command high prices, and the amounts paid for them run far up into the thou sands. Horses are sent from this favored region to Australia and New Zealand, England and France, Germany and Spain. The Lexington region was famous for its horses from the very first, and as early as 1787 racing was regularly carried on along the Commons. The Lexington Jockey Club came into existence in 1809, and the Kentucky Association in 1826. The efforts of the last-named have been directed to improving the horses of Ken tucky, especially in regard to speed and beauty. Fayette County is now almost a solid stock-farm. There are thirty regular breeding establishments, besides which nearly every farmer is to some extent a breeder ; and the environs of Lexington abound in park-like homesteads, with velvety lawns of blue grass and shadowy clusters of overarching forest- trees, in whose shade the finest blooded horses in America browse in content. Amid these fair fields, "beautiful as the vale of Tempe and fruitful as Sicily," are many scenes sugges tive of the best rural counties of England. Ashland is half a league from the Lexington court house, on the Richmond road, amid beautiful grounds and venerable forest-trees. The mansion was erected in 1857, by James B. Clay, on the site of the roomy brick house built by Henry Clay, his father ; and preserves in its interior the rich oaken panelling of the older home. Here Webster, Lafayette, Monroe, Van Buren, Gen. Bertrand, Lord Morpeth, and many other illustrious men have been honored guests. Henry Clay was one of the first to perceive and act upon the adaptability of these lexington^ent^cky ^nivers^y, rQyal pastures of Kentucky to raising the best of horses, 282 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MCDOWELL'S PASTURE. and he imported a few thoroughbreds, from which are descended some of the most famous horses of to-day. His son, John M. Clay, devoted himself to thoroughbred runners ; and another son, James B. Clay, brought to Ashland the famous Mambrino Chief, whose great family is well-known. James B. Clay's widow sold Ashland to the citizens of Lexington, who gave it to the State Agricultural College. In 1881 the estate was bought by Major H. C. McDowell, who married a grand-daughter of Henry Clay, and (in company with his son, Thomas Clay McDowell) conducts here a noble manorial estate of 440 acres, and one of the choicest stock-farms of the world. The stud includes Dictator, King Rene and Noblesse, with forty fine brood-mares. Dictator, the head of the stud, is the sire of the great trotting race-horses, Jay-Eye-See, Phallas and Director. The Woodburn estate, embellished by the opulent ownership of a century, is fifteen miles from Lexington, and near Spring Station, and covers 3,000 acres of the juiciest sod of the Blue-Grass country. This domain was bought of Gen. Hugh Mercer's heirs, in 1790, by Robert Alexander, a young man of a Scottish family, who came to America in 1785, and whose sister had been married and brought to America by Gen. Williams, a member of Franklin's embassy. Four years after Robert Alexander's death, in 1841, the estate passed into the hands of his youngest son and two daughters, and was subsequently sold to the oldest son, R. A. Alexander, a Scottish laird turned Kentucky farmer ; and when he died, in 1867, it reverted to his brother, A. J. Alexander. For nearly a century this farm has been the scene of many brilliant and successful experiments in breeding, in short-horn cattle, South-Down sheep, and thoroughbred horses, which have brought great glory and wealth to Kentucky. After the famous racer Lexington grew blind, he was bought by R. A. Alexander, for $15,000, and taken to Woodburn. The purchaser met with much ridicule for paying such a price, but his adventure was justified by Lexington's famous sons, Norfolk, Harry Bassett, Asteroid, and Kentucky, the last of which was sold for $40,000. Lexington, the greatest American thoroughbred, was born in 1850, and died in 1875, receiving a royal funeral and a grave on one of the fairest of Kentucky hill-tops. Subsequently, his skeleton was set up in the National Museum, at Washington. Woodburn was the home of the dams of the two fastest horses that ever lived, Maud S. and Jay-Eye- See, and also the birth place of Maud S., the queen of trotters, Nutwood, Wedgewood, and many others. The live-stock of Kentucky in cludes 372,000 horses, 800,000 cattle, 1,000,000 sheep, and 2,000,000 hogs. Minerals. — The coal product of Kentucky rose from 150,000 tons in 1870 to nearly 2,000,000 tons in 1890. Louisville is the cheapest American market for this product. The Eastern (or Ap palachian) coal-fields cover 9,000 square miles, and can be mined at low cost, being above the drain age level, in veins from four to eight feet thick. The pure and valuable Elkhorn coking coal un- ashland: maj. Mcdowell's stables. derlies 1,600 square miles in the southeast. The LEXINGTON: "ASHLAND" — MAJ. MCDOWELL'S RESIDENCE. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 283 , ALEXANDER. Western coal-field lies convenient to Green River, and covers 3,888 square miles. Many large mines are worked here ; and the fine cannel coal of the Breckenridge district is exported from Cloverport. There is a large quantity of iron ore in Ken tucky, but the production of pig-iron averages little over 50,000 tons a year, at eighteen blast furnaces. Most of the ore comes from Bath County. In 1889-90 vast developments of coal and iron prop erty were made at Middlesborough, near Cumber land Gap. The chief iron ores are the Clinton (dyestone) of the East ; the unstratified limonites of the subcarboniferous limestone, found in the West ; and the carbonites and limonites of the coal-measures, found in both sections. The black shales contain many oil-wells ; and in Cumberland and Wayne counties yields heavy lubricating oil. Natural gas has been found in many places, and turned to economic uses in manufacturing. Bowling Green has large quarries of oolite stone. Litho graphic stone is worked and dressed at Glasgow Junction ; fine buff or cream-colored marble, near the Kentucky River ; and Buena-Vista sandstone, in many quarries in the east and north. The State also has the white glass-sand of Muldrough's Hill, the fertiliz ing marl of Grayson and other counties, and fire-clays and pottery-clays, lead and zinc, limestone and gypsum, and saltpetre. The Government was modelled after that of Virginia, with a governor and executive officers serving four years, and a legislature of 38 senators and 100 representatives. The Court of Appeals has four judges ; and there are also circuit and county courts. The Capitol occupies a pleasant site at Frankfort. The Penitentiary at Frankfort has over 800 convicts, two thirds of them colored. It has a branch at Eddyville. The House of Refuge is a Louisville munici pal institution. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum, at Lexing- " woodburn": a. j. Alexander-. ton, nas 600 inmates ; the Central, at Anchorage (near Louisville), has 740 ; the Western, at Hopkinsville, has 640. The Institution for the Edu cation and Training of Feeble-minded Children, at Frankfort, has 150. The Institution for Deaf Mutes is at Danville ; the Institution for the Education of the White and Colored Blind, at Louisville. The Masonic Widows' and Orphans' Home occupies one of the largest buildings in Louisville, and is the only institution of the kind in America, and famous among Masons all over the world. Education. — The State Agricultural and Mechanical College and Agricultural Experi ment Station have several fine buildings, on a domain of 52 acres, overlooking Lexington. There are 16 professors and 300 students, mainly Kentuckians, each State representative being allowed to send one student free of tuition. This institution is maintained by yearly appropriations' and the Congressional land-grant, and by a State tax ; and teaches chiefly scientific agriculture, technology, and military science. The first college west of the Alleghanies was Transylvania University, founded in 1780, at Dan ville, and moved to Lexington in 1788. It received valuable grants from Virginia, and educated many eminent men. Exhausted by the civil war, in 1865 its property was conveyed to Kentucky University, a school founded by the Christian sect, at Harrods- burg, in 1858. This institution occupies the old A. J. ALEXANDER. 284 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Transylvania halls, and has 200 students in its college of arts, 100 in its College of the Bible, and 400 in the commercial college. The Christian denomination also conducts South-Kentucky College, at Hopkinsville, and the colleges at Eminence and North Middletown. The Catholic Church owns St. Joseph's, the oldest college (181 9) in Kentucky, at Bardstown, and St. Mary's College. Georgetown College and Bethel College ( at Russellville) are Baptist ; and the Kentucky Wesleyan College at Mil- lersburg, is Methodist. Central University at Richmond abbey at gethsemane. and Centre College and the Theological Seminary at Danville are Presbyterian. Ogden College is at Bowling Green. Berea College, with sev eral interesting buildings on Berea Ridge, overlooking the Blue-Grass country and the mountains around Boone's Gap, was founded in 1855, as a school, and in 1858 became a college. The leaders were Free-Soil men, and in 1859 they were driven from Kentucky, and Berea remained closed until 1865. It is now largely filled with white mountaineers and negro lowlanders, more than half its students being colored. There are about 400 students (two fifths being women), of whom twenty are in the college department. The Kentucky Military Institute was founded in 1845 by West-Point officers, and is at Franklin Springs. The buildings form a quadrangle, amid pleasant pastoral scenery. The Louisville Military Academy occupies fine new buildings, on a domain of thirty acres. Louisville has four medical schools, with nearly 800 students ; and schools of dentistry and pharmacy. The Law School of the Univer sity of Louisville dates from 1846, and has 33 students. The Southern Baptist Theological Seminary is the largest divinity school in the South, and occupies a handsome mod ern building. It was opened at Greenville (S. C.) in 1859, and transferred to Louisville in 1877. There are 8 instruc tors, and 160 students, from a score of States, and from Canada and Mexico. Louisville has medical and law schools for colored people. The Polytechnic School and library at Louisville owns a free library of 42,000 volumes. The first newspaper in Kentucky was the Kentucky Gazette, whose career begun at Lex ington in 1787. The Farmers' Library, the first newspaper in Louisville, made its earliest issues in 1807 ; and the Gazette came in 1808. In 1810 The Western Courier appeared, at Louisville. The Kentucky press now includes 20 daily newspapers, 11 semi- weeklies, 166 weeklies, 5 semi-monthlies, and 30 monthlies. Of these 15 are religious, 7 educational, 6 agricultural, and 5 scientific ; and others are devoted to law, the labor cause, secret societies and prohibition. The most powerful agency for wielding, moulding and reflecting the public opinion of Kentucky and much of the South and Southwest is the Louisville Courier -Journal, a sturdy Democratic, free-trade, anti-monopoly newspaper, with a very large circulation, and an influence far out of proportion even to this circulation. The Journal was founded in 1830 ; the Courier, in 1843; and the Democrat, in 1844; and in 1868 the three were consolidated into the present Courier- Journal, which immediately won a place of immense power and influence throughout the Ohio and Mississippi Valleys. This achievement is largely due to the brilliant and original editorials of Henry Watterson, and his intuition of genius and inevitable logic of accurate knowledge. The picturesqueness louibville : the courier-journal. LOUISVILLE : CITY HALL. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 285 and fervor of Mr. Watterson's style adorn all subjects treated, with a certain Parisian deli cacy of touch, oftentimes rising into tropical richness and strength. The Weekly Courier- Journal is said to have a larger circulation than any other Democratic weekly in the United States, or any other Southern newspaper, rising above 100,000 copies each issue. The main owner and president of the Courier-Journal company is W. N. Haldeman. Population. — The white population includes 47,000 Tennesseeans, 30,000 Virginians, 27,000 Ohioans, 18,000 Indianians, 9,000 North-Carolinians, 6,000 Illinoisans, 5,000 Mis- sourians, 2,000 New-Englanders and 1,150,000 natives. There are 250,000 colored Ken tuckians ; and 60,000 foreigners, half from Germany, and the rest from British soil. LOUISVILLE: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW, LOOKING UP THE OHIO RIVER. Chief Cities. — Louisville, founded in 1778, by George Rogers Clark, and named for Louis XVI. of France (then America's best friend), is the metropolis of Kentucky and the Lower Ohio, with great and lucrative manufactories and trading enterprises. The Ohio descends here 26 feet in two miles, and steamboats pass around these rapids by a canal, built in 1826-31. Louisville had a score of inhabitants in 1780, 1,000 in 1810, 70,000 in i860 and above 175,000 in 1890. Since the war, "the Falls City" has become the chief railroad and steamboat gateway of the Southwest ; and at the'same time her annual product of manufactured goods has risen from $15,000,000 to $66,000,000. The converging rail ways are united by a belt-line, and two costly bridges across the Ohio connect the Kentucky and Indiana systems of track. The clearing-house records show a yearly business of above $360,000,000. Louisville has six miles of frontage along the Ohio, above which it rises on a plateau seventy feet high, facing the picturesque Indiana Knobs. Her many leagues of broad and well-paved streets and avenues are lined with pleasant embowered homes, the dwelling-places of refined hospitality and courtly grace. Food and fuel, rents and land are cheap ; and people of moderate means find here comfortable and pleasant homes. The admirable water-supply comes from a reservoir on Crescent Hill, and keeps the local fire- losses very low. The city contains 150 churches (including the Catholic and Episcopal Cathedrals), seven convents, and many asylums and benevolent institutions. The beautiful Cave-Hill Cemetery is one of the best in the South. Foremost among the recent public edi fices are the Custom House, which cost $2,500,000, the new City Hall, the ten-story building of the Commercial Club, and the two fine railway stations. 286 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LOUISVILLE : GALT HOUSE. The Gait House is one of the most famous of Southern hotels, and has sheltered Dick ens, Bancroft and all the celebrities visiting Louisville for two generations past. The older tavern stood on the site of the Gait family homestead, until its destruction by fire, in 1865 ; and the present hotel was opened in May, 1869, and has since been the favorite home for travellers in the Ohio Valley. Henry Whitestone prepared the architectural plans for this perfect modern hotel, selecting the Romanesque style, as best adapted to a warm climate, and giving the structure spacious and noble corridors, lofty ceilings, and large rooms. The promise held forth by the fine exterior is fulfilled by the imposing effects of the public apartments and the studied unity of arrangement and effect throughout. The dignity and simplicity of this immense building, and its exceeding comfort as a rest ing-place for travellers, make the Gait House among the pleasant possessions of thriving Louisville. Frankfort, the capital, is on the Kentucky River, and has a large lumber trade. Daniel Boone is buried here. Maysville, founded in 1787, and long famous among the borderers as "Limestone Old Fort," is a handsome city nestling among the hills on the Ohio River. Harrodsburg is the oldest town in Kentucky, christened amid the bloodshed of long Indian wars. New port and Covington, opposite Cincinnati, have large factories. Paducah maintains an im portant trade on the Ohio, and is the converging point of several railways, and the principal market-town of Western Kentucky. Hickman and Columbus are the chief Mississippi- River ports ; and at the latter (once celebrated as a fortress), transfer ferry-boats carry trains across, and so unite the railway systems. The metropolis of the Blue-Grass country was founded in the year of the battle of Lexington, and its settlers gave it the name of the heroic Massachusetts village. It is a proud little city, with a large trade and extensive live-stock interests. Cynthiana (named for Cynthia and Anna, the daughters of its founder, Robert Harrison) marks the beginning of the Blue-Grass country, on the north, and has several famous breeding-farms in its vicinity. The wealthy and attractive little city of Paris is also surrounded by the paddocks of famous racers. Mount Sterling is the gateway to the mountains. The Railroads of Kentucky have cost $100,000,000. The Lexington & Ohio, the first railway in the West, was begun in 1831 and opened in 1835, from Lexington to Frank fort, having been built at a cost of $1,000,000, largely with Lexington capital. It had flat rails laid on stone sleepers. This pioneer line was extended to Louisville in 1847, and su^" sequently to Cincinnati. The Louisville & Nashville Railroad owns over 750 miles of track in Kentucky, and nearly 2,000 miles in adjacent States. The original stem line from Louisville to Nashville was built in 1851-9. Another great route leads from St. Louis southeast to Evansville, crossing into Kentucky at Henderson, and running to Nashville, 318 miles in all. The Chesapeake & Ohio Rail- , — - — - — , way runs from Old Point Comfort and Newport News west across the Virginias to Huntington (494 miles), and thence along the Kentucky shore of the Ohio River to Maysville and Cin cinnati (161 miles). The great_ iron bridge of the Kentucky Central, from Cincinnati to Cov ington, was built in 1887-8, at a cost of $5,000,- 000. The Cincinnati, New-Orleans & Texas Pacific line (the famous Cincinnati Southern) runs south from Cincinnati through the Blue- Grass country, and across the grand Cumberland LOUISVILLE : BANK OF KENTUCKY. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 287 plateau of Tennessee. It has 198 miles in Kentucky, and transports vast quantities of wheat to the Gulf States. "This audacious road" (as Edward Atkinson calls it) was built by the city of Cincinnati (in 1872-8), at a cost of $21,000,000. High Bridge, over the Kentucky River, is the loftiest pier bridge ever built, being 375 feet above low water. The Kentucky and Indiana Bridge, from Louisville to New Albany, was built in 1882-6, at a cost of $1,500,000, and has seven piers of magnificent limestone masonry (and two of iron), 170 feet high. It is a railway, carriage and foot bridge. The Louisville Bridge, built in 1868-72, at a cost exceeding $2,000,000, has 27 iron spans, on limestone piers. The great Kentucky-River Bridge, remarkable for its skillful engineering devices, was built by the Edge Moor Bridge Company of Wilmington (Del.). Finance. — The banking system of Kentucky was founded in 1802, when a com- I pany received a charter to insure boats bound for the Spanish I towns in Louisiana, with permission also to issue transfer- I able notes. The Bank of Kentucky obtained a charter in 1 1804, with a capital of $1,000,000. In 1818 the legislature I chartered forty-six new banks, with an aggregate capital of 8, 720,000, but these were nearly all wrecked within the year. Iln 1820 the Bank of the Commonwealth was formed, under State auspices ; and it captured the Bank of Kentucky. When .President Jackson vetoed the United-States Bank bill, in 1834, t the legislature endeavored to replace its paper by re-chartering ' the Bank of Kentucky, and creating the Bank of Louisville and the Northern Bank of Kentucky, with a total capital of $13,000,000. At the closing of the branch of the Bank of the United States, at Louis ville, the Bank of Kentucky purchased its building, which it still occupies. This was a magnificent structure for its day, and even now, though plain in outward appearance, its internal arrangements are not surpassed by those of any modern bank. Since the close of the bankrupt period of 1837-42 the local banks have been singularly efficient, domestic in system, honest in management, wisely supervised and in part controlled by the State, standing as the ever-ready supports of business, and giving the people (until the Govern ment taxed their circulation out of existence) the best currency west of the Alleghany Mountains. In 1861 the Bank of Kentucky had eight branches in the State. The perils and losses incident to the war rendered it imperative upon the bank to reduce its circula tion, and to withdraw all of its branches, except the one at the capital of the State, which is now in operation. All the older banks weathered the storm of 1857, and maintained specie payments, but called in much of their paper, the remainder of which became the standard for the Ohio Valley. In 1859 their circulation reached $14,000,000, and their good credit enabled them to withstand the extreme adversities of the civil war. The venerable and historic Bank of Kentucky ranks as one of the strongest finan cial institutions in the United States, and has no rival in the great South. With a paid-in capital of $1,645,100, and a surplus of over $1,000,000, this conservative (yet enterprising) corporation under the presidency of Thomas L. Barret, is a great factor in the business, not only of Louisville but of the State of Kentucky. As to the finances of the State, there are but few commonwealths in the Union that can have more cash in the treasury than the amount of the bonds and floating debts combined. Yet this was the condition of Kentucky in 1880 and in 1890 ; and indicates the general thrift of the Commonwealth. louisville : united-6tates custom house. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LOUISVILLE : SOUTHERN BAPTIST THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. Religion. — One of the largest religious sects in Ken tucky is that of the Disciples of Christ, or Christians, frequently called Campbellites, avoiding creeds and dog mas, and striving to unite all Christians with no other term of religious communion except faith in the Lord Jesus Christ and obedience to His laws. Alexander Campbell, a young Scotch-Irishman, began to preach this doctrine in 1810, and continued until his death, in 1866, with great learning and eloquence, advocating a return to apostolic simplicity, throughout West Virginia, Kentucky and other interior States. The communion thus founded increases mightily. It has 6, 500 churches and 650, 000 communicants. President Garfield was a Disciple. Another interesting religious outgrowth of this region is the Cumberland Presbyterian Church, now one of the great denominations of America. About the year 1800 the Cum berland country, then recently settled by Virginians and Carolinians, was over-swept by a fervid revival of religion. The conservative element in the Presbyterian Church deplored this spiritual awakening, but the Cumberland Presbyterian favored it, and even allowed theological candidates to adopt the Confession of Faith with reservations (especially as to decrees and election), and to become preachers without having had classical educations. The Synod of Kentucky dissolved Cumberland Presbytery, and cut off its dissenting mem bers; and these latter in 1810 formed the independent Cumberland Presbytery, out of which has grown the present powerful denomination. Among its beliefs are these : There are no eternal reprobates. Christ died for all mankind. All dying infants are saved. The Holy Spirit acts on the world. These are very liberal principles, and have attracted many adherents, the Cumberland Presbyterians now numbering 173,000 communicants, with six colleges and efficient home and Japanese missions. Kentucky has been hallowed by generations of Catholic missions, ever since 181 1, when the Church founded among the Maryland colonists at Bardstown the first bishopric of the West, with spiritual authority reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Many priests and monks fled from France to these peaceful solitudes during the French Revolution. In 1849 a band of forty-five monks from the Abbey of La Melleraye founded a Trappist Abbey at Gethsemane, sixty miles from Louisville, and their great stone buildings and chapels still stand, in a rich domain of 700 acres, and give shelter to a band of silent, laborious and prayerful monks. No Americans have entered this austere brotherhood. The first physician and the first schoolmaster in Kentucky were Catholics. The sisterhood at Loretto was founded in 1812, by Father Rininck. The Catholics hold the greatest value in property. The first Protestant-Episcopal confirmation occurred at Lexington in 1829, and in 1832 the diocese of Kentucky came into being, under Bishop B. B. Smith. The first Methodist Church rose in 1786, in Mason County, and Bishops Asbury and McKendree were among its early leaders. The Methodist have 1, 000 churches, 1 20, 000 members, and 500,000 adherents. Manufactures doubled between i860 and 1885, when they numbered 5,219 establishments, with a capital of $57,000,000, and yearly pro ducts valued at $103,000,000. Among the chief items are : Flour, $16,000,000; lumber, $6,000,- 000; iron and steel, $18,000,000; agricultural implements, $3,000,000; carriages, $13,000,000; and meat products, $6,000,000. The oak-forests and stock farms of the region have given rise to a large trade in oak-tanned leather, for soles, har ness and belting, and the 22 Louisville tanneries Louisville: western cement works. turn out this valuable commodity to the extent of $2,500,000 a year. Louisville makes yearly 40,000 tons of cast-iron gas and water pipes. The recent development of iron-making THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 289 LOUISVILLE: western cement works. cities in various parts of the State, from Grand Rivers to Middlesborough, has a tendency to in crease the manufacturing here, and to awaken the ingenuity of the people in many ways. The centre of population in the United States falls in Kentucky, the meeting-ground of the alertness of the South and the diligence of the North. The cement-mills of Louisville and vicinity pro duce vast quantities of the best cement, which finds a market all over the West. The manufacture of Louisville cement began in 1829. Most of the pro duct of the then small mill was used in the construction of the Louisville and Portland Canal, where now, after a period of more than fifty years, and, notwithstanding the rude process and the small quantity manufactured, the cement is not only in a perfect state of preservation, but has attained a degree of hardness that indicates its durability for all time to come. Louis ville cement has been used in every character of work with marked success. Its strong hydraulic qualities render it particularly valuable in subterraneous structures. In the con struction of water-works, sewers and bridges, and in concrete foundations for bridges and streets, it has been used in every State and Territory in the West and South. The consump tion of Louisville cement west of the Allegheny Mountains is larger than that of all other varieties combined. All mills producing standard brands of Louisville ce ment are represented by the Wes tern Cement Association, whose sales in 1889 were 1,338,464 barrels. The Association repre sents the Hulme, Speed, Queen- City, Falls-City, Black-Diamond (River), Black-Diamond (Rail road), Silver-Creek, Ohio-Valley, and Eagle mills. An immense and important Louisville industry, called forth by the needs of the agricul tural communities of the Ohio Valley and the South, is the Kentucky Wagon Manufacturing Company's Works, the best-arranged establishment for making farm-wagons in the world, and with the largest capacity. The works cover thirty acres, and have eight acres of roofing, and three miles of railroad, besides special water- works and electric lights. The great object of study has been to have the lumber come in at one end, and pass straight along until it emerges at the other end as finished wagons, without any unnecessary handling. Black hickory for axles, white oak for running gear, yellow poplar for sides and ends, and yellow pine for wagon bottoms, each leaves the lumber yard and passes forward, always under close scrutiny for imperfections, until finally the assembled parts emerge from the paint shop in the form of an Old- Hickory or a Tennessee wagon, cheap, convenient and durable, and destined for many years of usefulness on the Reelfoot lowlands, or over the Cumberland hills, or in dis tant States, whose farmers have long since learned the merit of these wagons. Full 500 men are employed in this estab lishment, whose products are widely diffused over the world. Louisville leads the world in the manufacture of plows, and has introduced her wares not only into nearly every louisville : court-house LOUISVILLE : KENTUCKY WAGON MANUFACTURING CO. '8 WORKS. 290 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LOUISVILLE : . AVERY & SONS' PLOW WORKS. county in the Union, but also into Mexico and South Americaj as well as into Australia and other remote countries. The business was founded in 1848 by B. F. Avery, a New- Yorker, who had been operating a foundry in Virginia since 1825. The B. F. Avery & Sons' plow works occupy six acres of brick buildings, independent of outlying yards for lumber and other supplies ; and give regular employment to 600 men and §1,500,000 of capital. The annual pro duct exceeds 200,000 plows, besides thou sands of tons of blades and incidental plow parts. Fully 143 different kinds of plows and cultivators are made here (not including the variety of sizes of each kind). The reputation of the factory is especially high in connection with the peculiar adaptability and superiority of Avery plows for cotton, as well as general farming in the Southern and Southwestern States. It supplies equally well a light garden plow, an ordinary plow for medium work, the special plow for the sugar lands of Louisiana and Cuba ; another class for the sticky black land of Texas, the chilled plow for rocky fields, and the riding or sulky plow for breaking up a prairie, as well as the huge and powerful rail road plow, for tearing to pieces a macadamized street. Here the cast or chilled plows are moulded and ground ; the steel plows, starting in as slabs of steel, are sheared, pressed, welded and fitted into shape, and then tempered and polished ; and millions of feet of selected white-oak timber are cut, steamed, bent and finished into shape as plow beams and handles. All the iron and wooden parts of plows are made here, high quality of material, workmanship and finish being the foremost considerations ; and the lumber, pig-iron and steel which enter the works leave in the form of cultivating implements adapted for the soil of Kentucky, or Ceylon, or Brazil. At Louisville is the main works of the greatest hickory handle manufacturers of the world — the Turner, Day & Woolworth Manufacturing Company. They make hickory handles of all kinds for axes, adzes, picks, sledges, hatchets, hammers, tools, etc. These are sold and shipped to every State in the Union and to almost every country on the globe. The business was founded in Connecticut about thirty- five years ago, afterwards moved to Baltimore, and in 1877 settled at Louisville to get as close to their timber as possible without losing all the advantages of a large manufacturing city. Here is done chiefly the finishing of the handles made from the timber which has been sawed to various lengths in the rough at their dozen or more mills in various parts of Kentucky and Ten nessee. Upwards of 250 men are employed at Louisville, 100 at their factory at Bowling Green and about 1 75 at the saw-mills, giving a total force of about 500 men. The uses of hickory handles is quite large, and the many patterns of each kind are numerous. For instance, there are nearly 100 different patterns of axe handles. The capital of the Turner, Day & Woolworth Manufacturing Company is $400,000; but this only vaguely represents the value of the properties. Kentucky whisky properly made and aged has given this State the chief markets of all the Union for the sale of her famous product. Its manufacture and storage constitute one of the leading industries of Kentucky. The capital invested reaches far into the millions, and the product carries §15,000,000 yearly into the Federal Treasury. All whisky is made from grain — usually from corn, rye and malt — the latter indispensable to a certain extent LOUISVILLE : TURNER, DAY & WOOLWORTH. THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 291 The grain is reduced to meal, which is scalded in order to break up the starch-cells and liberate the starch, to be converted into grape-sugar by the diastase of the malt. The whole mass then goes into a fermenter, and from the presence of yeast undergoes the vinous fermentation, which by obscure processes produces a variety of new compounds, alcohol and carbonic-acid gas, and a number of oils and acids in limited quantities. The carbonic-acid gas escapes ; and the whisky, with or without the oils or other products, is separated from the residual by distillation. The generic term whisky embraces several species known as spirits, continuous, Bourbon and rye. Bourbon, the term used generally to designate Kentucky whisky, is again subdivided into sweet and sour mash. Spirits is the product of distilla tion so conducted as to take out everything except the water and alcohol. This compound is fixed, and re mains the same at the end of three years as when first made. It has a sweetish, pungent, alcoholic taste, without any aroma or bouquet, and without any agree able flavor. It forms the base of all compounded whisky — the word "compound" meaning a mixture of spirits and Bourbon or rye whisky. The term Bourbon is ap plied to Kentucky whisky made from a mixture of com, rye and malt, of - which the com constitutes the larger part. In its distillation some of the oils and acids are allowed to remain. These, with age, undergo chemical action, and are converted into aromatic ethers, pleasant to the HENDERSON BRIDGE. taste and agreeable to the stomach. of Kentucky is Bour- sour mash, there of rye whisky This species is pro- and malt, and in is made and treated It is not easy to localities produce perior in quality to While the principal product bon, sweet and is a large quantity made annually. ¦.¦.-¦--. .- duced from rye all other respects •*s3tj..j. as the Bourbon. say why certain certain liquors su- kentucky-river bridge. what can be pro duced in any other locality. Yet this is known to be so. The generally accepted theory is that vinous ferment is set up by an organism or living cell, which is most likely, to a great extent, influenced by climate, water, air, and soil. Kentucky has been found by long experience (as shown by the consensus of opinion of the United States) to produce whisky of a quality superior to that which is produced in any other section. The reason for this lies in the fact that Kentucky "is peculiarly adapted to the growth of that particular species of organism capable of forming yeast of that character which alone pro duces whisky of the highest quality. This nat ural advantage exists to a much greater extent in some than in other sections of Kentucky, and judging from the experience of the last century the interior of the State is the most highly favored. Having the advantage of an interior location in the sections of Kentucky more or less underlaid with limestone, the quality of whisky produced depends on the intelligence and skill applied to the equipment and management of the plant. Negligence of the conditions necessary to the propagation of the yeast cell ; grain of inferior quality, and warehouses damp and illy ventilated, are more than enough to undo all that nature has done for Kentucky in the preparation for making and aging whisky. No COVINGTON : C. & O. BRIDGE ACROSS THE OHIO. 292 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ATHERTON : THE J. M. ATHERTON DISTILLERY. process has yet been found which takes the place of time in maturing whisky. The improvement results from the ac tion of the oxygen of the air on the compounds produced by the fermenta tion. It will thus be seen at a glance that the natural advantage which Ken tucky holds over the rest of the Union for producing fine whisky must in its application be aided by a good location ; by the use of pure water and grain of the best quality, mixed in proper proportions ; by intelligent distillation ; and by storage for aging in dry, clean warehouses supplied with an abundance of fresh air, always to be had in the country and seldom or never to be found in and about the cities. New whisky, wherever made, is unfit for internal use. In fact, the words Kentucky whisky mean a whisky in which age has changed the original oils into new compounds at once harmless and agreeable. The distilleries of The J. M. Atherton Company are near New Haven, in Nelson County, a region that has long been famous as one of the three or four localities producing the finest Kentucky whiskies ; the product of each locality retaining, to a certain degree, its own characteristic flavor. The Atherton distillery was built here in 1867, and the Ather ton brand established at that time. It was a small frame structure, with a capacity of ten barrels of whisky per day. The Mayfield distillery was built in 1869. The plant now consists of three distilleries, with a daily mashing capacity of 2,200 bushels of grain, pro ducing 225 barrels of whisky ; ten warehouses, having a total storage capacity of over 100,000 barrels; cooperage works which can turn out 225 barrels per day; and extensive cattle barns, machine shops, and offices. The entire premises embrace more than forty acres, connected with the Louisville & Nashville Railroad by three miles of track owned and operated by The J. M. Atherton Company. The distillery buildings and warehouses are of brick ; the equipment is the most improved modern machinery and distilling appa ratus ; and the warehouses are thoroughly ventilated and heated by steam. Only the highest grades of Kentucky whiskies — Bourbon, sour- mash and rye — are made, under the brands "Atherton," "Mayfield," "Windsor," "Clifton," "Carter," and others. Another of these world-renowned distillery plants is that of the " O. F. C. " and Car lisle Distilleries, founded at Frankfort in 1870, and since 1879 conducted by The E. H. Taylor, Jr., Company. The product is wholesaled exclusively by The Geo. T. Stagg Company. The distilleries cover twenty acres, on the Kentucky River, with two separate distillery buildings, warehouses, elevators, cattle-pens and smaller buildings. They are acknowledged to be, for amount of daily mash, the best equipped and finest distilleries in the world. Many men are employed in , the cooper shops and in the distilleries, manufacturing packages to contain the product and aiding in the conversion of corn, rye and malt into spirituous liquors. The special grades prepared here are "O. F. C. Hand-made Sour-mash" and ' ' Carlisle Standard Sour-mash " whiskies, both singled and doubled in copper. Many veteran connoisseurs bear constant witness to the purity and excellence of the brands, their rare flavor and healthful tonic benefits. Only high grade goods are manufactured at these distilleries. 13 . fill ¦* m rlJESS rim W0m IBB mm FRANKFORT: E. h. TAYLOR, JR., CO.'S " O. F. C." DISTILLERY. vmom STATE Settled at Biloxi. Settled in ._ . 1699 Frenchmen 1812 708,002726,915 939,94°454,954 . 484.992 . 885,800 ¦ • 54, 146 • • 468,754471,192 1,116,828 HISTORY. Among the first visitors to Louisiana were the Span ish men - at - arms of De Soto's expedition, under Narvaez, who after the death of their chief, in 1542, de scended the Mississippi in rude brigantines, and went out to sea. In 1682 the brave Cavalier de La Salle floated down the great river from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf, and took pos session of the country in the name of France, erecting pillars on the banks of the Mississippi to show that it was French territory. Four years later, La Salle came from France to occupy Louisiana, Jmt his fleet failed to find the Mississippi, and landed on the Texan coast, where La Salle died, and most of his men starved to death. In 1699 another expedition was sent from France to Louisiana, un der Iberville. It landed at what is now Ocean Springs, Miss issippi, and established there a settlement, named Biloxi. Iberville and his brother Bienville sailed up Lakes Pont- chartrain and Maurepas, and explored the Mississippi River, from Natchez to the Gulf. The first settlement in Louisi ana was made by Iberville, 70 miles up the Mississippi, in 1700, as a military colony, to prevent the English from ascending the river. Louisiana was given to Antoine Crozat in 1 712, with exclusive control from Canada to the Gulf. Six years later, Crozat relinquished this vast but unprofit able empire, and it passed into the possession of the West ern Company, organized by John Law. In the same year, Bienville was appointed governor, and moved the settle ment from Biloxi. New Orleans was founded in 1718, with 68 inhabitants, the only other settlement in Louisiana being at Natchitoches. The arrival of several fleets of French immigrants increased the population; and in 1721, Louisiana contained 4,820 whites and 600 negroes, and the capital was moved to New Orleans. The next 20 years were taken up in Indian wars. The French joined forces with the Choctaws, and STATISTICS. Founded by . , . Admitted as a State, Population, in i860, . In 1870, In 1S80, ... White,Colored, .... American-born, . Foreign-born, . Males, Females, .... In 1890 {U. S. census] . Population to the square mile, 20.7 Voting Population, . . 216,787 Vote for Harrison (1888), 30,663 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,032 Net State debt, $12,513,214.92 Real Property, . . $149,000,000 Personal Property, Area (square miles) U. S. Representatives, Militia (Disciplined), Counties, . . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . Vessels, .... Tonnage, . , . Manufactures (yearly Operatives, Yearly Wages, Farm Land (in acres^ $64,000,000 48,720 6 1,746 870 1.535 562 62 402 $24,205,183 12,167 S4.358.841 8,273,506 Farm-Land Values, . £58,989,117 Farm Products (yearly) $42,883,522 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 90,551 Newspapers, .... 152 Latitude, . . . 8q° to 94° N. Longitude, . . . 28°5o/ to 330 W. Temperature, .... i° to 1070 Mean Temperature (New Orleans), . 69° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. New Orleans, . Shreveport, . Baton Rouge, Lake Charles, Plaquemine, Donaldsonville, Monroe, . . . New Iberia, Natchitoches, , Thibodeaux, 241,995 11,482io,397 5,0003,211 3,1993,051 3,5co 3,000 3,000 294 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. nearly annihilated the Natchez tribe, but the Chickasaws took up the Natchez cause, and the French were frequently defeated, even with Bienville in command. In 1764 the Louisianians were notified that their country had been ceded to Spain, and the next year Antonio de Ulloa arrived to become governor. The people were opposed to Spanish rule, and finally taking possession of New Orleans, they sent Ulloa away on an outbound ship, and established a government of their own, new Orleans: ancient oourt-house. sen(iing delegates to France to ask the King to again occupy Louisiana. Their request being refused, the insurgents contemplated the establishment of a republic ; but in 1769, Don Alexander O'Reilly arrived as the Spanish governor, with 2,600 troops and 50 guns. The rebellion was suppressed, and its leaders were shot on the Place d'Armes at New Orleans. At that time the province was defined as extending northward to the source of the Mississippi, and westward to the Pacific Ocean. During the War of the Revolution, the Spanish governor, Galvez, aided the Americans by supplying them with powder, by way of the Mississippi; and in 1779-80, he led an army, largely of Louisiana Creoles, against the British in Florida, capturing Baton Rouge, Mobile and Pensacola, with their garrisons. After the Revolution, the United States claimed and occupied the east bank of the Mississippi down to Red River. The west bank remained in possession of Spain. East of the great river, the Spanish held the Island of Orleans, between the Mississippi, the lakes and Bayou Manchac. The country north of this, as far as the American possessions, was held by England as a portion of West Florida. As the Mississippi Valley became more and more favored by Ameri can settlers, the narrow policy of the Spaniards be came offensive to the people of the young Republic. Envoys of Spain endeavored to persuade Kentucky and Tennessee to secede from the Union, and join Louisiana; but the American political leaders pocketed their money and gave them no results. In 1801, the great province was ceded back to France, but the treaty was kept secret. Napoleon intended to send hither Gen. Victor and 25,000 choice French troops, to firmly establish a noble New France in the west. But the supremacy of Great Britain on the sea rendered this move impossible, and left the country without defence. Unable to garrison the new domain, and fearing that England would seize it, Napoleon made haste to sell the province to the United States, EADS JETTIES,: MOUTH OF MISSISSIPPI RIVER. receiving $12,000,000, ¦;i« over and above which the American Government bound itself to pay the French Spoliation claims, amounting to $4,000,000. The Spanish standard gave place to the French tri-color in 1803, amid splendid military ceremonies; and on December 18th, the American troops, marching from Fort Adams, entered New Or leans, and the Stars and Stripes fluttered upward over the Place d'Armes. The larger part of the present Louisiana was formed into the Territory of Orleans, in 1804. In 18 10 the parishes east of the Mississippi, arid north, of Bayou Manchac (then held by Spain), revolted, and set up "the republic of West Florida." They asked for admission to the Union, but met with refusal, and Gov. Claiborne annexed the territory to Louisiana. Late in 1814, Gen. Pakenham's British army of 14,450 men landed from Admiral Cochran's squadron, and advanced by Lake Borgne against New Orleans. After several days of sharp fighting, the THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 295 FETIT ANSE. invaders made a grand assault (January 8, 1815) on Gen. Jackson's lines, defended by 3,500 Tennessee, Kentucky, and Louisiana riflemen, and were repulsed with a loss of 3,000 men, including three generals. A few days later, they took ship and sailed away. A convention in Baton Rouge, February 26, 1861, voted in favor of secession from the Union. Forts Jackson, St. Philip, Livingston, and Pike and the United-States Arsenal at Baton Rouge had already been seized. In April, 1862, Farragut and 47 Ameri can war- vessels, with 310 guns, after a magnificent naval fight, sunk the Confederate iron-clads and gun boats in the Mississippi, and ran past the forts, despite their heavy point-blank fire. Gen. Butler soon followed with his army, and New Orleans, at the mercy of Farragut's guns, was occupied and thereafter held by the Union troops, who also garrisoned Baton Rouge and held the riparian parishes. Gen. N. P. Banks took command in December. In 1864, he advanced up the Red River to attack Shreveport, the Confederate capital of the State, supported by Admiral Porter's fleet, but his army was beaten at Mansfield, and retreated for many days, fighting all the time, to and beyond Alexandria. For many years after the military government ceased in Louisiana, the State was per turbed by political conflicts, caused by the determined efforts of the minority of white Democrats to wrest the government from the hands of the Republicans, numerically much stronger, but largely composed of ignorant negroes. The Population of Louisiana is singularly diver sified as to language and race. Among the negroes in the southern parishes, "gumbo," or so-called Creole French, is common ; and in the prairie country Acadian or "Cajun" French is largely used, both being corrupt dialects. The Spanish formerly spoken in portions of St. Bernard, Lafourche and Iberia has given way to French or English, although the people retain their Spanish names. In the southwestern parishes, Lafourche, Terrebonne, St. Martin, St. Mary's, Iberia, Acadia, Lafayette and St. Landry, dwell the descendants of the Acadians who were banished from Nova Scotia in 1755. Like the French Canadians, they are a prolific race, and have increased from 7,500 to 200,000, constituting a large majority of Louisiana's French-speaking population. A distinction is still drawn between them and the "Creoles," the descendants of the original French settlers, and the large number of people who came to Louisiana after the San- Domingo massacre and the expulsion of the whites from Hayti. The parishes of St. Charles, St. James, St. John the Baptist and As cension, formerly known as "The German Coast," were settled by colonists from Alsace. Their descendants have become thoroughly Creolized, although still bearing their German names. The Spanish settlers were mainly Catalans, and Is- lingues, as the Canary-Islanders were called. The latter constitute a majority of the people in St. - Bernard parish. The Italian population has in creased rapidly within 20 years. In New Orleans alone they number over 20,000 ; and abound throughout the sugar-districts, where they com- new Orleans : old gate— Spanish fort. LAKE CHARLES. 296 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. <*i J '¦' 1 It- *t^13 1 llfe^ ^hc - F iiiiiiii "-: — ^ ^^^^r:.:-'^z--:^ NEW ORLEANS : JACKSON SQUARE. pete in plantation work with the negroes. The cosmopolitan character of the population appears in New Orleans, where only 18.2 per cent, of the inhabitants are of English or American descent, 17.4 French, 15.4 German, 13.8 Irish, 7.8 Italian, and 2.7 Spanish. The dark races comprise the remainder, 15 per cent, being negroes of pure descent and 9.6 of mixed races, ranging from octoroons (seven eighths white) to mulattoes (half-breeds). Among the negroes there is a large element of Indian blood, the original Indian slaves having disappeared by intermarriage with them. Besides these, there are a number of Malays (called in Louisiana the "Manila men"), Chinese, and Indians (mostly of the Choctaw race). The negroes, who formerly constituted a large majority, are giving way before the greater prolificness of the Acadians ; and in southern Louisiana the whites are in a majority, whereas, north of Red River the population is two to one negro, and in some parishes ten to one. The Name of Louisiana was given by La Salle, in honor of Louis XIV., King of France, "Le Grand Monarque." The popular name is The Pelican State, derived from the symbols on the State arms. It is also some times called The Creole State. The Arms of Louisiana show a pelican, standing in a protecting attitude over her nest, and feeding the birdlings with her own blood. Above her head are the evenly-balanced scales of Justice, with 18 stars, in a half circle. The motto is Union, Justice and Confidence. The Governors' of Louisiana since the purchase from France have been : Territorial : Wm. C C Claiborne, 1804-12. State: Wm. NEW ORLEANS : UNITED-STATES MINT. C. C. Claiborne, 1813-16 ; Jas. Villere, 1 816-20; Thos. Boiling Robertson, 1820-4; H. S. Thibodaux (acting), 1824; Henry Johnson, 1824-8; Peter Derbigny, 1828-9; A. Beauvais (acting), 1829-30; Jacques Dupre (acting), 1 830- 1 ; Andre Bienvenu Roman, 1830-4, and 1838-41; Edward D. White, 1834-8; Alexander Mouton, 1841-5; Isaac Johnson, 1845-50; Joseph Walker, 1850-4; Paul 0. Hebert, 1854-8; Robert C. Wickliffe, 1858-60; Thos. O. Moore, 1860-3; Michael Hahn was elected governor in 1863 over the region under Federal control, while Henry W. Allen was governor of the Confederate portion ; Jos. Madison Wells, 1865-7; B. F. Flanders (military), 1867-8; Henry C. War- moth, 1868-72; Wm. Pitt Kellogg {de facto), 1872-7; John McEnery (Democratic claimant), 1872-7 ; Francis T. Nicholls, 1877-80; Louis Alfred Wiltz, 1 880-1 ; Samuel D. McEnery, 1881-8; and Francis T. Nicholls, 1888-92. Descriptive. — The Creole State is 280 miles from north to south, and 298 miles from east to west, the bordering common wealths being Mississippi, Arkansas and Texas. The Louis iana lowlands cover 20, 000 square miles of alluvial and swamp lands, and the upland prairies and forests include 25,000 square miles. The average elevation is 75 feet, with hils of nearly 500 feet in the north, whence the land slopes away to the south and east. The Mississippi flows down the country on the top of a ridge, which it has formed by its deposits of drift. Above chalmetik: bj.tu monument. Baton Rouge, the river is bordered by bluffs, which, at Port '-4 - --/":¦¦ : _-S§|'-faK - - v lllllll "" I Wffl- i { \~ ¦ ¦ Mill '"" -^ :-±±z'S?---?h.-- 297 NEW ORLEANS : URSULINE CONVENT. THE STATE OF LOULSIANA. Hudson, reach ioo feet in height. The alluvial dis tricts include the bottom-lands of the great rivers, hav ing a breadth of from 20 to 60 miles along the Mississippi, and from twelve to 20 along the Red and Ouachita ; and covering about one fourth of Louisiana, with' 4, 800, 000 acres of rich arable front land, in high and profitable cultivation ; falling backward by long slopes into im mense areas of swamps, adapted in the southern part of the State to rice-culture. The soil is black, dark-red, and reddish-gray, and of incomparable fertility and inexhaustible depth. More than one eighth of Louisiana (4,600,000 acres) is included in the Coast Marsh, extending inland 30 miles, and sometimes overflowed by the Gulf, after long-continued southwestern winds. The banks of the streams, and the islands and chenieres (oak -groves) in the marsh are cultivated. Since 1880, large tracts have been drained and improved, in St. -Mary's, Terrebonne, Cal casieu, and Cameron Parishes. Much of this area rises but ten feet above the water, and the delta of the Mississippi is largely a morass, below the level of the river, a great part of it in Marais tremblantes or floating prairie. A large portion of the Coast Marsh west of the delta is owned by a syndicate ; that on the east is given over to hunting and fishing, and a number of New-Orleans sportsmen's clubs are located there. The six Teche parishes were truly called by Longfellow the "Eden of Louis iana," and cover an area equal to that of Con necticut, with exuberantly fertile grassy prai ries, broken by silvery bayous and noble forests, and fanned by the Gulf breezes. Here the Teche winds through "the Sugar-Bowl of Louisiana;" and the wonderful prairies of Opelousas and Attakapas run inland for 100 miles. On Orange Island, in Iberia, is the estate of Joseph Jefferson, with noble live-oaks and magnolia and orange groves, and 5,000 cattle. There are several other similar islands — Petit Anse, Cote Blanche, etc., which are simply small hills rising out of the swamp. In the southwest is the land of prairies, covering 2,800,000 acres, and traversed by silvery coulees and dense marais. The rich grasses of the plains sustain herds of cattle and horses ; and large areas are cultivated for cotton, sugar-cane and corn. Calcasieu, the chief of the prairie parishes, is two thirds as large as Connecticut, and has lately received many immigrants from the Western States. More than half of Louisiana is covered with the valuable and merchantable yellow pines of the Red-River uplands and the southeastern parishes, nearly 50,000,000,000 feet being reported as in the forests, the largest in the South. The cypress of the Mississippi and Atchafalaya swamps, and the oaks of the north, have consider able commercial importance. In the south occur numerous islands of live-oaks, a wood so valuable for ship-building, that large tracts of it were reserved for the United-States Navy The mysterious forests of the lower Mississippi contain myriads of tall cypresses, with their silken foliage, and palmettoes, with vivid green spears. Here and there spread broad cane-brakes, and prairies dotted with mag nificent live-oaks and magnolias, rich in fragrant CHALMETTE : NATIONAL CEMETERY. ¦nwmlilJHBl NEW ORLEANS \ CATHEDRAL ST. LOUIS. HARVEY : THE LOUISIANA CYPRESS LUMBER CO. 298 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNLTED STATES. white blossoms. Over the trees are draped garlands of grape-vines and ghostly streamers of gray Spanish moss. Among the largest lumber and shingle mills in the South are those of the Louisiana Cypress Lumber Company, Limited, with its .offices at Harvey (La. ) and Chicago (111. ), and its mills at Harvey, opposite New Orleans. This corporation owns 50,000 acres of forest- land, from which it draws vast supplies of tim ber ; and for the further treatment of this product the company has shingle and saw mills, dry-kilns and machine-shops, and other works, employing altogether nearly 500 men. The great plant at Harvey is one of the leading industries of Louis iana. It is favorably located for home and foreign shipments to various countries. Cypress is a most durable lumber, and it is a fortunate circumstance that Louisiana has such great areas of it, under the efficient control of a wealthy and energetic corporation. No other American house handles such quantities of cypress, both in lumber of all grades, and in shingles. Its capacity in shingles alone is a million a day. Among the many departments of trade growing o.ut of the agricultural wealth of Louis iana and the adjacent States, one of the most indispensable is that of stave-making, not only for the local products but for certain foreign industries as well. A representative house in this line is Bobet Brothers of New Orleans, whose manufacture and shipment of staves employ a large capital, and many workmen. This strong and conservative firm has the advantage of many years of intimate ac quaintance with their trade, for it was founded long before the Civil War, by J. S. Bobet, whose sons have succeeded to its ownership. The Bobet oak- staves are known everywhere as the best to be ob tained, and the firm consequently ranks as the largest in its line in Louisiana. Fully 4,000,000 oak-staves have been received from the interior (mainly by river), by this firm, in a single year ; and shipped to Spain and Portugal and other European countries, to be made into casks and barrels for wines and other liquors. The firm has large yards on the bank of the river, where their staves are ranked up and assorted into classes, after which they are shipped abroad, to be worked up for their various uses. Including its bays, Louisiana has a coast-line of 1,256 miles on the Gulf; and its Chan- deleur and other islands have a thousand miles more. Isle-Au-Breton Sound and Chande- leur Sound form good roadsteads. The great curve of coast from Atchafalaya Bay to Cat Island is a perfect maze of islands and peninsulas, bays and bayous, abounding in fish and water-fowl. The coast is lined with land-locked tidal bays and sounds, cutting into the melancholy swamps. Among these are Lakes Borgne, Pontchartrain, and Maurepas, near New Orleans ; the Bays of Barrataria, Timbalier, Terre bonne, Caillou, Atchafalaya, Cote-Blanche and Vermilion, west of the Mississippi delta ; and Lake Calcasieu and Sabine Lake, in the southwest. The bayous are secondary outlets of the rivers, and some very sluggish rivers are also called by this name. They cover the alluvial region with an intricate net-work of channels, valuable for navigation new Orleans ; the French market. and draining. The lakes on Red River were mainly caused NEW ORLEANS : BOBET BROS. STAVE YARDS. THE STA TE OF LOUISIANA. 299 4 - Missouri for many miles. by the great raft, which dammed up that stream and caused it to overflow, and since its destruction they have diminished in area, and some of them have become dry, the land being culti vated. The raft was an impassable tangle of logs and other rubbish, fill ing the Red River for 35 miles. It was removed between 1837 and 1873, by the herculean efforts of the United- lake borgne : shell beach. States Engineers, and at vast expense. Lake Pontchartrain is a land-locked salt-water estuary just north of New Orleans, which has canals leading to it, as well as railroads to the West End, the seat of the Southern Yacht-Club house and several pleasant hotels ; and to Spanish Fort, near the ruins of Fort St. Jean, built by Gov. Carondelet. Many narrow and winding lakes near the Mississippi and Red Rivers are ancient parts of these streams, cut off by changes in the channels, and silted up. Among these are Caddo and Sodo, Bodcan, Bistineau and Cannisnia. Lakes Yatt and Catahoula are large bodies of water, farther down the Red-River Valley. The Mississippi is one of the great rivers of the world. It has a length of 4,382 miles, and with its tributaries drains 2,455,000 square miles. Rising in Itasca Lake, in northern Minnesota, it flows south 1,330 miles to the confluence of the Missouri (2,908 miles long), '••'' -\vn" coming from Yellowstone Park and the Rocky Mountains. ¦J"- —"-'." 'i'^>-'Mi/k '¦ Its pellucid tide refuses to mingle with the turbid yellow Missouri for manv miles. Above the union of the streams, the Mississippi flows be- 1 tween picturesque high r-'-*^-- bluffs, and through deep forests and upland prai ries, but below it enters the wide alluvial lowlands, through which the remainder of its course is laid, turbid, power ful, marvellously crooked, and with constantly changing channels. During the five years following 1878 the United-States Government paid out over $10,000,000 in improving the navigation of the river. Nearing the Gulf after its long journey from the highlands of Minnesota, the Mississippi loses itself in a maze of creeks, bayous and swamps, covering a low-lying delta of 14,000 square miles, and flows into the salty sea through several out lets, Pass a Loutre, and the Northeast, South, Southwest and other passes. For many miles outside, the muddy river, discolored with finely comminuted aluminous clay, fails to mingle with the blue tide of the sea. Pilot-town, near the mouths of the river, is a settle ment of pilots, engaged in steering vessels through the passes. The jetties at the mouth of the Mississippi were built in 1875-9, hY ^P1- Jas- B- Eads' who received something above $5,000,000 for making here a permanent channel 30 feet deep, where previously there had been but nine feet. The South Pass runs southeast twelve miles, 700 feet wide, between low and reedy banks of marsh-mud, beyond which lie still bays. The east ern jetty is 2% miles long, the western jetty I J miles, reaching out into the Gulf, through the crest of the bar which lies off shore. The jetties consist of mattresses of long willow rods, two feet thick and 100 feet long, held in lake pontchartrain. NEW ORLEANS : LEVEE, PICAYUNE TIER. 300 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW ORLEANS : SUGAR AND RICE EXCHANGE. place by rubble-stone, and protected at their seaward ends by palmetto cribs and a capping of huge concrete blocks. These great engineering works have made the Mississippi easily, accessible for ocean steamships of the first class; and 5,000-ton vessels, each laden with above 10,000 bales of cotton, pass safely out to sea. The Mississippi River has 585 miles of navigable water in and along Louisiana, and receives the Ouachita (navigable for 218 miles) and Red (510 miles) Rivers, which are ascended by steamboats far up into Arkan sas and Texas. The Ouachita receives Bayou Macon (navigable for 138 miles), Bayou Boeuf, and Bayou Tensas (navigable for 112 miles). Black River and other streams in northern Louisiana are of economic value. The Atchafalaya is practically one of the mouths of the great river, running 217 miles from the Mississippi to the Gulf. Bayou Lafourche, navigable for 318 miles, to Donaldsonville, on the Mississippi, has a commerce of $5,000,000 a year, in sugar, molasses and rice. The Bayous Terrebonne, Black, Teche, Courla- bleau, and others have hundreds of miles of navigable water. East of the Mississippi are the Amite (navigable to Port Vincent) and Tickfaw, entering Lake Maurepas ; the Tche- functa and Tangipahoa, effluents of Lake Pontchartrain ; and Pearl River, the boundary stream between Louisiana and Mississippi, up which small steamboats may go for 103 miles. West of the Mississippi, the Calcasieu and other rivers and bayous flow down out of the prairies into the salty lagoons. The Sabine forms the western frontier. There are valuable fisheries in these waters, the delicious pompano and Spanish mackerel of the Gulf; the shrimp of Lake Pontchartrain and else where, sent by Chinese merchants to the celestial colonies all over the Republic ; the oysters of the bayous ; the sea- GOVERNMENT EXPERIMENTAL SUGAR FARM. turtles of the islands ; and a great variety of river-fish, furnishing valuable food-products. Louisiana has more inland navigation (3,782 miles) than any other State, the lower three fourths of its area having no point over 20 miles from navigable rivers. At high water, the streams run much above the level of the land, and are confined in their channels by dykes, or levees, from five to 20 feet high. In order to protect the lowlands from inunda tion, 1, 150 miles of these levees have been built along the Mississippi, Red, Black, Ouachita, Atchafalaya, Lafourche and other streams. Up to i860, these works had cost $24,000,000, but during the ensuing dark years they fell into ruin, and many of the richest plantations were overspread by the rivers. Upwards of $ 1 , 200, 000 are spent on the levees yearly, but even this outlay does not prevent disastrous spring floods, like that of 1874, when 30 parishes were inundated ; or of 1882, resulting in a loss of $20,000,000 ; or of 1885, de- Lstroying $7,000,000 worth of property; or the terrible inundation of 1890, which cost the State $11,000,000. Agriculture yields above $50,000,000 a year in Louisiana, although but a tenth of her soil is under culti vation. "The Coast," from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, along the Mississippi is largely devoted to rice and sugar, while the upper country yields mainly corn and cotton. The State produces yearly 15,000,000 new Orleans : old court building. bushels of corn, and abundant crops of oats and sweet THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 301 There are 1,400,000 head of live-stock, $22,000,000. Southern Louisiana pro- NEW ORLEANS : CUSTOM HOUSE. :'Ul- BOI potatoes. valued at duces figs and bananas, peaches and plums, quinces and other fruits of value. The Mississippi below New Orleans (and especially for the 30 miles of coast above Fort Jackson) is lined with beautiful orange- groves. The figs and bananas of Plaquemines form a large crop. Great quantities of early vegetables are sent north by fast freight. The famous jet-black and highly flavored tobacco of St- James Parish, which is fermented in pots and sent away in small muslin-covered and corded carrots, was named after the Spaniard, Senor Perique, who" settled here in 1820, and sowed Kentucky and Virginia seed. The cultivation of rice has advanced mightily within 20 years, displacing sugar in some sections, and being carried on principally in Plaquemines, St. -Mary's, Calcasieu and other parishes, and on the margins and islands of the swamps. It varies from 60,000,000 to 120,000,000 pounds a year. There are 1,500 rice-plantations, with 50,000 persons engaged, and a capital of $9,000,000. Rice is sown like wheat, on carefully prepared ground, water being let in around (but not over) it, as soon as it is two inches high, and drawn off when the rice reaches 18 inches. It is harvested and threshed like wheat. Cotton is one of the great crops, covering more than a third of the cultivated ground, and yielding yearly 550,000 bales. The best grades are raised along the Mississippi alluvial belt, above Red River. Carroll Parish produces more cotton (a bale per acre). than any other region in the world. The cotton-seed- oil business has of late attained great proportions, and New Orleans works up 180,000 tons of seed yearly. The oil is largely used for home consump tion, in the manufacture of lard, and millions of gal lons are exported yearly to Europe, to be returned to America as fine olive-oil. The pulp (or oil-cake) is used for feeding cattle and horses ; and from the residuum the factories make stearine, glycerine and soap. The Union Oil Mills were among the earliest pioneers in the business. They were established in 1855, but for many years made slow progress in developing their industry. Since the war success has crowned their efforts, with the perfecting of pro cesses, the founding of a great export-trade, and the widening areas of the use of cotton-seed cake for cattle-feed, and for fertilizing land. The Union Oil Mills are at Gretna, across the river from New Orleans, and date from the year 187 1. They cover five acres, and employ 200 workmen. Their daily capacity is 200 tons of seed. The offices of the company are in the Cotton Exchange, at New Orleans, and in Providence (R. I. ) ; and they control the Gretna and Crescent, Maginnis (New Orleans), Hamilton (Shreveport), Monroe and Baton-Rouge crude- oil mills, and the refineries at Providence, Gretna and New Orleans. This powerful com pany is connected with the American Cotton-Seed-Oil Trust, which was organized to prevent over-production, and otherwise regulate the industry. The rapid and healthy advancement of trade in the natural products of Louisiana has resulted in the development here of some of the chief commission merchants and factors- in the Union. Among the foremost of these is the great house of S. Gumbel & Co. (founded in 1870), who rank as the largest re ceivers of actual consignment cotton in New Orleans, handling sometimes as high as 70,000 bales in a new Orleans: s. oumbel & co. cotton press. til!- GRETNA : UNION COTTON-SEED-OIL MILL. 302 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SOUTHDOWN PLANTATION : CUTTING CANE. single season. Avoiding all speculative business, this strong and conservative firm strictly confines itself to the receipt and disposition of the great Louisianian staples, and yearly increases the volume of its business. Under the direction of Isidore Hechinger, one of the partners, a vigor ous trade is also carried on in sugar, molasses and rice, drawn from the broad plantations of the lowlands, and shipped from. New Orleans to a hundred distant ports. S. Gumbel & Co. practi cally own and operates the Orleans Cotton Press, the largest of the many cotton-compress warehouses in New Orleans, which were built to accommodate the immense receipts of the great staple of the Gulf States. In one part of the city there are $8,000,000 invested in these cotton-presses and warehouses. Sugar-Raising* supports half the population of Louisiana, employing $90,000,000 in land and buildings, and yielding $25,000,000 a year. Along the thirty leagues of bottom less alluvion, extending from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, extends a long succession of sugar plantations, before the war the scene of a patriarchal and luxurious life. The illimit able green sea of cane and rice-fields is broken only by dark groves of live-oaks and mag nolias; the broad and low mansions of the planters, wide verandaed and spacious; and the mills and stables and negroes' cabins of each little independent community. In 1861 there were 1,400 plantations, occupied by 150,- 000 people, and producing in that year 460,- 000 hogsheads of sugar. Four years later the war-devastated State yielded but 10,000 hogs heads. The crop of 1890 was the largest since the war, reaching 330,000 hogsheads of sugar and 500,000 barrels of molasses. The product is from 20 to 30 tons of cane an acre, 90 per cent, being juice, of which 15 per cent, is sugar, so that each 100 pounds of cane holds 13^ pounds of sugar. The act of Congress, passed in 1890, giving a bounty of from if to 2 cents a pound on all sugar, of a certain grade, pro duced in this country has had a stimulating effect on the industry. Down near Houma, in the far-extending delta parish of Terrebonne, is the great South down Plantation, covering 5,000 acres, formed by a union of older estates, and for many years under the direction of Henry C. Minor, an old and experienced sugar-planter, whose father founded the original Southdown in 1827. The wonderfully rich soil of this section produces sugar-cane of the best quality, and in large and profitable crops. For the manipu lation of this valuable product Southdown has a costly and efficient sugar-house, a refinery and other needful, adjuncts, and employs 150 hands. The yearly product is 3,000,000 pounds of sugar and 2,000 barrels of molasses, from cane grown on the estate, and through all the vicissitudes of the sugar business, this plan tation has never gone behind in its operations. The plantation is contiguous to the railroad, and the steamboats plying up and down the winding bayous. The parish in which Southdown stands was settled over a century ago by Acadian ref ugees from Nova Scotia, and their descend ants still inhabit these rich and beautiful low lands. SOUTHDOWN PLANTATION : HENRY C. MINOR. SOUTHDOWN PLANTATION : SUGAR-HOUSE. THE STATE OF LOULSLANA. 3°3 SHADYSIDE PLANTATION : JAMES W. BARNETT. FOOS & BARNETT'S SHADYSIDE PLANTATION, ON THE BAYOU TECHE. Shady-Side Plantation is away down in the Delta, near Centreville, in St. -Mary's Parish, and covers 7,000 acres (more than a third of which is under cultivation), being a consolidation of four oldtime plantations. It is owned and conducted by John Foos and James W. Barnett, two Ohio men, who invested down here in 1870, and have since established one of the largest and best- equipped sugar estates in the South. The sugar- house at Shady Side is an enormous structure, built in 1889 from carefully studied plans, fitted with all the valuable machinery used in the most advanced modern processes of refining, and capable of a very large output. It is the largest plantation sugar-house in the Bayou-Teche country, and one of the best equipped in the State. Many interesting experiments have been carried on at Shady Side, as to using begasse to make pulp for manufacturing paper, and in other directions, applying the well- known ability and ingenuity of Ohio men to enlarging the resources of Louisiana. Mr. Foos still retains his home and enterprise in Springfield, Ohio ; but Mr. Barnett moved down to the plantation in 1870, and has ever since devoted himself with the industry and business methods of the North to the utilization of the immensely productive plantations of the South. In all the surrounding country Mr. Barnett's name is synonymous with good fellowship, hospitality and generosity, combined with an exceptionally successful financial undertaking. , The famous Calumet Plantation, on the banks of the Bayou Teche, near Pattersonville, in several respects leads the world of American sugar-estates. Its proprietor, Daniel Thompson (a native of Maine, and longtime a resident of Chicago), was by some twelve years Louisiana's pioneer in the use of commercial fertilizers. He was by 16 years the first private individual in Louisiana, and probably by ten years the first in the world to introduce the chemical laboratory, for agricultural research upon a sugar-cane estate. Wibray J. Thompson, his son, was by four years the pioneer of the United States in the introduction of chemical and physical investigations directly applied in the actual conduct of manufacture, being for that period the sole scientist engaged in this field in America. The experimentation with fertilizers led from the first to a practice, the wisdom of which subsequent in vestigations elsewhere have confirmed ; while those in the factory have produced practical industrial results, which had been believed altogether im possible. These gentlemen are also now the first and only private parties in the world engaged in the scientific development, by seed-selection, of SHADYSIDE PLANTATION : CANE-HOUSE. CALUMET PLANTATION : SUGAR-HOUSE. 3°4 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CALUMET PLANTATION : DANIEL THOMPSON. CALUMET PLANTATION: CANE-HOUSE. the sorghum plant, by which, as an auxiliary crop to tropical cane, they hope eventually to double the period of manufacture, which does not now ex ceed 60 days a year. Their success in this, to date, has been phenomenal. The chemical, mechanical and financial controls, particularly the last two, are without parallels for completeness and scientific value in the world's cane-sugar industry. The re sults of their work have been published from the first, for the benefit of all others engaged in sugar production, and the plantation is known wherever sugar is made. The exceptionally fine record made by Calumet shows a continuous development of product, and whereas in earlier days from 80 to no pounds of sugar were obtained from a ton of cane, now 200 pounds are extracted. Most of this advance has come since 1880, and it is expected that the intricate experiments continually in progress here will achieve still higher results. This beautiful and notable plantation covers 6,000 acres, and its man agement combines Northern industrial methods and business organizations with Southern hospi tality and sympathy. Among the Northerners who have become identified with Louisiana since the close of the "late unpleasantness," and have borne a promi nent part in building up its industries, are the Ames family of Massachusetts, so well and widely known — Oakes A., Oliver and Frank M. Ames, the heirs of Oakes Ames, to whom this country is so much indebted for its railroad development. They are the owners of one of the largest estates in this land of broad domains, covering 13,000 acres, in the Parish of Jefferson, directly opposite the city of New Or leans, their property having a river-front of two miles. The domain includes, among others, the South Side and Estelle Plantations, formerly known as the Millaudon Plantation. Their land is traversed by the Southern Pacific and Texas & Pacific Rail ways, with a station at Amesville. They were among the first to introduce the modern methods and appliances for the cultivation and harvesting of the crop, and the equipment is among the best and most efficient in the State. They have six miles of permanent and portable railroad tracks ; and introduced the car for handling sugar-cane, which has come into general use in all sugar-raising countries, and has been of great benefit to planters. They were among the first to use commercial fer tilizers, and to introduce methods by which actual information as to results might be ob tained.. Their private or protection levee is over seven miles in extent, and by it they were en abled to protect their cultivated land from the overflow of 1884, which was so disastrous ip its results. The capacity of the sugar-house (which is in plain sight from the city of New Orleans) is from 60,000 to 70,000 pounds of sugar a day, or about 5,000,000 pounds during the sugar-making south-side plantation : from the Mississippi, SOUTH-SIDE AND ESTELLE PLANTATIONS : OAKES A. , OLIVER AND FRANK M. AMES. THE STATE OF LOULSLANA. 3°5 SOUTH-SIDE PLANTATION : CUTTING CANE. season. Their crop in 1891 exceeds 3,000,000 pounds, all of which goes to New Orleans. The Louisiana Sugar Refinery is the largest in the Southern States, and covers three entire squares of ground on Custom-House and Decatur Streets, New Orleans. This mammoth establish ment has the most modern and ingenious ma chinery, and can turn out 1,250,000 pounds of sugar daily. It receives the plantation sugars of Louisiana, Cuba and the Sandwich Islands, besides large quantities of beet-sugar, and produces there from all grades of refined sugar and syrups, which find a market all over the United States. About 750 men serve this corporation, whose yearly pay-roll exceeds $350,000. The Louis iana Refinery is under the presidency of John S. Wallis, and dates its origin from the year 1883. It is one of the command ing industries of New Orleans, and its pro ducts are unexcelled for their excellence and standard merit. The Planters' Re finery a few years ago came under the same ownership as the Louisiana Refinery. NEW ORLEAN8 : LOUISIANA SUGAR-REFINERY. Down in the rich and beautiful Gulf parish of St. Mary's, and close to its shire-town, Franklin, stand the immense new buildings of the Caffery Central Sugar Refinery, erected after the designs of Sully & Toledano, the New-Orleans architects, and fully equipped with all the modern machinery and inventions used in the processes of refining sugar. The Caffery plant has been constructed with unusual care and solidity, and shows the best results of modern scientific processes as applied to this important industry. The transporta tion of the product of the plantations to and from the refinery is made easy by spur-tracks running from the Morgan line of railway into the works. The owner of this notable new enterprise is John A. Morris, one of the best-known of Louisiana's millionaires, who has invested $600,000 in this bold venture. The introduction of the Caffery Refinery is destined to work a revolution in the business throughout the Gulf parishes. The cane ground here is bought from the small farmers in the neighborhood and along the railroad, and the great success of this institution demon strates that central sugar-houses are desirable, and many more will be built. The capacity of the plant is 500 tons of cane a day. Thomas Sully is the general manager of the refinery. Another interesting phase of this business is seen in the case of the men who are at once active sugar factors or commission merchants and owners of great plantations. Foremost among them is Richard Milliken, the owner of several plantations, all of which are large producers of sugar. He has been famous for many years for his liberality in advancing money on grow ing crops. His financial foundation was of so solid a character that even the costly experi ences of the bad seasons of 187.8-9 and 1882-3 failed to shake his high credit; and to this NEW ORLEANS : LOUISIANA SUGAR-REFINERY. FRANKLIN : CAFFERY CENTRAL SUGAR-REFINERY. 306 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW ORLEANS : RICHARD MILLIKEN, SUGAR FACTOR. day he has remained actively in the field, in in timate connection with the foremost sugar-planters of Louisiana, and wielding a powerful influence in the development of this valuable industry. It is said that as a factor or broker he has handled more sugar than any individual in the South. In 1840, after he had been a resident of New Or leans for eight years, Mr. Milliken became a sugar- broker, and carried on this business with remark able success until 1887. He handled one third of the sugar-crop of Louisiana. In 1870 he became also a sugar-factor, and has since handled one fifth of the crop, or 40,000 hogsheads of sugar and 60,000 barrels of molasses yearly. In 1872, Mr. Milliken acquired the Unity plantation ; in 1876, the Waterford; and since then the Fairfield, Killana and Cedar-Grove estates. The Milliken plantations employ 1,000 men, and have a yearly product of 5,000,000 pounds of sugar and 300,000 gallons of molasses. Louisiana is a land of flowers, and the fragrance of orange blossoms, delicate magnolias, and jessamine, blend with the perfume of innumerable roses, and miles of wild flowers along the alluvial plains. The most notable animals are the panthers of the swamps, the black and brown bears of the uplands, and the great alligators of the bayous. Lizards, turtles and snakes of many kinds dwell in and near the lowland waters, and here also is a great array of the waders, ibises, cranes and herons. Various eagles and many hawks and gulls, and the patron-bird of the State, the pelican, fly over the bayous ; and myriads of mocking-birds and finches, cedar-birds and orioles fill the air with their songs. The uplands are the home of partridges and grouse, pigeons and wild turkeys. The Climate varies greatly, from New Orleans, with its average temperature of 69. 540, and rainfall of 73 inches, to Shreveport, with a yearly average of 640 and a rainfall of 47 inches. It may be called semi-tropical, and is strongly modified by the large lakes and rivers and the Gulf- winds. Droughts are rare ; light frosts visit the sugar-region but once in three years ; and snow gets to New Orleans but once in ten years. The northern counties are whitened by occasional snows and harsh northerly storms, dropping the temperature to 150. The heavy mortality of Louisiana in old times has visibly abated with the development of sanitary science. The death-rate of New Orleans was 59 per thousand in 1850-60, 40 in 1860-70, 35 in 1870-80, 29 in 1880-86, and is 25 to-day, 20 to the whites and 35 to the negroes. Consumption causes one seventh of the deaths; and malarial diseases, one fifteenth. The saline and breezy air of Louisiana is beneficial for sufferers from rheumatism, catarrh, bronchitis and consumption. The Government abides in a group of executive officers, elected by the people for four years ; the General Assembly, made up of 36 sena tors, and from 74 to 98 representatives ; the Supreme Court of five judges, appointed for eight years ; and judges of the Courts of Appeal and District Courts. The District judges are elected, except in New Or leans, where they are appointed by the governor. The Appeal judges are elected by the Legislature. The parishes correspond with the counties in the other States. The Capitol is a picturesque Eliza bethan building at Baton Rouge, with battlemented ' NEW ORLEANS: COTTON EXCHANGE. BATON ROUGE : LOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 3°7 NEW ORLEANS : GAYARRE PLACE. towers and Gothic windows. The Louisiana State National Guard is organized in the parish of Or leans, and includes the First Brigade. The Special Militia Force of the State covers the troops of the interior parishes, four companies about Baton Rouge forming the First Battalion ; four in the northern parishes forming the Second Battalion; and several companies of cavalry and artillery. There are also independent companies, one French, two Italian, one colored, and the renowned Bat talion of Washington Artillery. The Penitentiary at Baton Rouge has 800 con victs (mostly colored), and is conducted on the lease system, the prisoners being set to work on the levees and other public enterprises. There are Houses of Refuge for boys and girls, at New Orleans, the seat also of the great Charity Hospital, and many other benevo lent institutions. The Insane Asylum -at Jackson has 500 patients; and the Louisiana Re treat is at New Orleans. The Louisiana Institution and Industrial Home for the Blind and the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb are at Baton Rouge. Education is offered by the State more freely than it is accepted by the people. Fewer than one fifth of the children of proper age attend the schools. The buildings are inferior and instruction is given but four months in each year. As a result, the illiterates include 112,000 among the voting men alone. Four fifths of the illiterates are negroes. The State Normal School is at Natchitoches ; and New Orleans also has a normal school. The Tulane University of Louisiana was founded by the State in the year 1837, as the University of Louisiana, and took the name of Tulane from Paul Tulane of New Jersey, who amassed a fortune in New Orleans between 1822 and 1873, and retired to his native State. Between 1882 and 1887 he gave $1, 100,000 for education, and the institution thus endowed acquired the valuable franchises and handsome classical buildings of the old University at New Orleans, and has attained a high efficiency. Tulane University has 25 instructors and 248 students ; the Law Department (founded in 1847), nve instructors and 52 students ; the Medical Department, eleven instruc tors and 287 students. The H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial College, founded by Mrs. Warren Newcomb of New York, was opened as a department of Tulane in 1 887. It has handsome buildings on Washington Avenue. There is also a free drawing school, with 310 students ; a manual training school ; and a valuable gallery of original paintings and statuary. The Tulane-University library contains 20,000 volumes; and the State Library, in the Law Building, has 26,000. The Louisiana State Uni versity was opened in 1855, at Alexandria, with Col. W. T. Sherman as commandant. Reopened after the war, it was moved to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Baton Rouge, in 1869, and now occupies the old United- States Arsenal, on a high bluff north of the city, surrounded by superb oaks, and overlooking the Mississippi for many leagues. The State Agricultural College is connected with the University, and there are commercial and civil-engineering schools. The University is declining, falling from 200 students in 1880 to 69 in 1887, and financial straitness has constrained reducing the professors' salaries. The Southern University at New jztEH £S3,-, -T" — -T-'"--jjJi .KiJ Joseph H. Williams (acting), 1857-8; Lot M. Morrill, 1858-61; Israel Washburn, Jr., 1861-2; Abner Coburn, 1863-4; Samuel Cony, 1864-7; Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain, 1867-71; Sidney Perham, 1871-4; Nelson Dingley, Jr., 1874-6; Selden Connor, 1876-9; Alonzo Garcelon, 1879-80; Daniel F. Davis, 1 880-1 ; Harris M. Plaisted, 18S1-3 ; Frederick Robie, 1883-7 ! Joseph R. Bodwell, 1887 ; Sebastian S. Marble (acting), 1887-9 5 and Edwin C. Burleigh, 1889-93. Descriptive. — Maine is nearly as large as the other five New-England States com bined. The Atlantic Ocean bounds it on the south and southeast ; New Hampshire extends along the west ; and the Canadian provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick, on the west and the east, bend to a union over Maine's northern frontier. The most easterly point of United- States land is the bold rocky promontory of West Quoddy Head, near Lubec. The surface of Maine is beautifully diversified. The coast hills include Agamenticus (673 feet), Mount Megunticook (1,457 feet), and Green Mountain, on Mount-Desert Island (1,527 feet). An ascending slope runs 140 miles inland to the divide, whence the northern slope of 7,400 square miles descends 80 miles to the Canadian frontier. There are several ranges of wooded mountains, breaking at their summits into noble craggy peaks. Foremost among these is Mount Katahdin, 5, 385 feet high, isolated in the lonely Penobscot wilderness. Around Moosehead Lake rise the fine peaks of Squaw Mountain, 3, 262 feet ; Mount Baker, 3,589; and the Spencer Mountains, 3,135. In western Maine are Mount Bigelow, 3,300 feet ; Mount Abraham, 3,387 ; Saddleback Mountain, 4,000 ; Mount Blue, 3,200; Mount Aziscoos, 3,150; and other lofty summits. There are 1,568 lakes and ponds, covering 2, 300 square miles, with limpid waters and great beauty of scenery. The chief of these are Moosehead, 38 by twelve miles long, and 1,023 feet above the sea; Sebago, 14 by eleven miles, and 400 feet deep ; the Rangeley Lakes, 1,511 feet above the sea, and covering 80 square miles ; Chesun- cook, 20 by two miles in area ; and the Schoo- dics, near the eastern boundary. These lovely inland waters abound in pickerel, trout, land locked salmon, and other fish, and are visited by thousands of sportsmen. Maine is blessed with a network of 5,151 streams, the chief of which are the Penobscot, 275 miles long, and navigable to Bangor (55 miles) ; the deep and rocky-shored Kennebec, mount desert ; eagle lake. 155 miles long> and navigable to Augusta (42 MOOSEHEAD LAKE : MOUNT KINEO. 3^4 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. miles); the Androscoggin, 157 miles; the St. Croix, 97 miles ; and the Saco, 95 miles. The St. John drains a great area of the wilderness. It is claimed that Maine has more available water- power than any other portion of the globe of equal extent, the amount being above 2,500,000 horse power. The rock -bound coast of "hundred-harbored Maine" extends for 2,486 miles (225 miles in a MOUNT DESERT AND BAR HARBOR. MOUNT DESERT : SPLIT ROCK. straight line), and is broken by the great bays of Passamaquoddy, Penobscot, and Casco, each of them abounding in beautiful islands ; and by many smaller bays, Sheepscot, Frenchman's, Muscongus, Narraguagus, and others. The coast forms a succession of long rocky peninsulas and islands, separated by deep and narrow fiords, and with many admira ble land-locked harbors. It is starred at night by 54 light-houses and lighted beacons, and 23 fog-signals ; and 23 bell-buoys and whistling-buoys warn mariners from points of danger. Summer Resorts abound in this charming northern park, which is far above the range of malaria, mosquitoes, and heat. There are summer-hotels and cottages all along the coast, from ancient Kittery and York and Wells, by Kennebunkport, Old Orchard, and Scarborough, and among the lovely islands of Casco Bay, to Harpswell and Cape Small Point ; Hunnewell's Point, at the mouth of the Ken nebec ; Squirrel Island, off Boothbay ; the Penobscot- Bay resorts, Camden, Northport, Castine, and Deer Isle ; the metropolitan splendors of Mount Desert and Sorrento ; and the remoter eastern beaches and head lands. Off Penobscot Bay rise the purple mountains of Isle au Haut, inside of which lie the hundreds of islands which gem the great estuary of the Pen obscot. M6nhegan is twelve miles from the main land, and covers a thousand rocky acres. Mount Desert, off the eastern coast, is a mimic continent of 100 square miles, with 13 high mountains rising from the sea, and several clear highland lakes. Its wonderful Tyrolese scenery has given reason for the growth here of one of the choicest of American summer-resorts, and the beautiful cottages and the huge hotels of Bar Harbor are of world-wide fame. Several other popular resorts, like Seal Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and Northeast Harbor, have risen on the island ; and the shores of the adjacent Frenchman's .Bay are studded with similar summer-colonies, Sorrento, Sullivan, Winter Harbor, and La Moine. An eminent Boston divine once lamented that "God is making no more Maine coast ;" and this glorious eight hundred leagues of sea-bound, backed by illimitable natural parks of forests, lakes and mountains, is the great pleasure-ground of the North-Atlantic Pe 1 » ' - "— ^ States. In the vast northern forests there are many it .- Faglg favorite places for sportsmen, the trout-abounding Rangeley Lakes, great Moosehead Lake, Chesun- cook, the Allagash waters, and many other lonely forest-streams and lakes, on whose shores the moose and caribou still linger. On the west are Frye- burg and Bethel, close by the White Mountains. Fully 100,000 summer-visitors enter Maine every season, supporting 250 summer-hotels and num berless farm boarding-houses and forest-camps. Nearly $10,000,000 are spent here every year by lake moosetocmaguntic. and for this class of guests. mmm THE STATE OF MAINE. 3'5 MOUNT DESERT: BAR HARBOR. One of the most charming and most widely-known summer-resorts in America, patronized by distin guished people from both continents, is Poland Spring, 25 miles north of Portland, and reached by a delightful five-mile stage-ride from Dan ville Junction, where the Maine-Central and Grand-Trunk Railways cross. Among the ven erable pine and oak groves on this hill-top, which looks over leagues of lakes and valleys, and out to the White Mountains, stands the great Poland-Spring House, with its broad frontage, 500 feet long, and all modern devices for giving comfort and luxury to the pilgrims of health. Close by is the Mansion House, smaller, but very attractive, and open all the year. The first Mansion House was opened here in 1797 by Wentworth Ricker, and ever since that time some member of the family has kept a hotel here. The establishments now are run by Hiram Ricker & Sons. The foremost characteristic of this wonderful spring is its unapproachable and incomparable purity, an excellence in which it is unsurpassed among all the waters of the world. It is not a mineral water, but the least mineral of waters ; and therein, and in certain unknown but irresistible potencies, its mysterious power consists. It is a powerful absorbent, and cures many perilous disorders, besides reviving dormant or dying organs. In all diseases of the kidneys it acts with magical efficacy. The Poland water is sent in great quantities to all parts of the United States, being everywhere in use as a remedial agent, or as a delicious table-water. The Maine woods cover 20,000 square miles, I an area seven times greater than the Black For rest of Germany; and abound in great white " pines, sometimes 240 feet high; hard and thick-grained yellow pines ; Norway and pitch-pines, spruces and hemlocks, elms and maples, beeches and buttonwoods, oaks and and poplars, cedars and firs. Tho- the whole length of the country on The lumber industries run out 400,000,000 feet yearly. The POLAND SPRING. I POLAND-SPRING HOUSE. MANSION HOUSE. birches, basswoods and ashes, larches reau said that ' ' a squirrel could travel the tops of the trees. enforcement of laws against hunting with dogs has been attended with an amazing increase of deer, caribou, and moose ; and bears and catamounts, wolverines and hedgehogs, abound. The hunters of Maine send yearly to the furriers 22,000 skins of muskrats, 10,000 of foxes and mink, and great numbers of sables, otters, and coons. Climate. — Equidistant between the equator and the North Pole, Maine is a land of variable winds, gentle rains, sudden changes, and heavy sea-fogs, with cooler summers and warmer winters than corresponding latitudes in the interior. The mean annual temperature is 40. 88°; mean summer 62. 1 8°; mean winter 18.450. The mean annual depth of snow is 83.02 inches (equal to 6.91 inches of water). In the north it cov- from mid-November to mid- April. The Penobscot is frozen for 125 The summer is short, with hardly five months between frosts. Malarial diseases are rare, but consumption causes one fourth of the deaths. The Geology of Maine affords, as its best commercial products, the ex cellent gray, red, and black granites Portland: post-office. 0f the Penobscot Islands, used for ers the ground days each year. PORTLAND : CUSTOM-HOUSE. 3" KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PORTLAND : OBSERVATORY. public buildings all over the country. Dix Island produced the material for the Treasury Building, at Washington, and the New- York and Philadelphia post-offices. The Bodwell Company of Vinal Haven has quarried the larg est piece of stone ever cut in the world, its length of 115 feet exceed ing that of the greatest of the Egyptian obelisks. Vinal Haven yielded much of the stone for the Cincinnati Post-office and the State Department, at Washington. Maine granite has also made the Vorktown and Plymouth monuments, the Buffalo City Hall, the '. Baltimore Post-office, and the City Building, at Chicago. Deer Isle has valuable quarries, from which the granite is swung by derricks on to the vessels' decks. At Mount Waldo 200 men quarry granite paving-blocks. Maine ships yearly 100,000,000 of these blocks. There are valuable quarries at Yarmouth, North Jay, and Blue Hill. At West Sullivan 1,000 men are engaged quarrying the fine gray granite which spreads along the top of the ground, and is shipped down Frenchman's Bay. Hallowell has large quarries of white granite ; and Norridgewock ships granite from its Dodlin Hill. Calais, Mount Desert, and Jones- port produce fine red granite ; Addison, St. George, and Columbia are celebrated for their black granite. Rockland, on Penobscot Bay, has eighty kilns, where 1,000 men make 1,200,000 barrels of lime yearly. The slate-quarries in the Piscataquis Valley have been worked for half a century. Freestone, marble, and serpentine are found in various places ; and Orr's Island contains fine steatite. Gold, silver, copper, lead, tin, and manganese are found in small quantities. The Katahdin Iron Works produce excellent metal from bog ore. Mount , . Mica, in Paris, abounds in tourmalines, rose-quartz, and other rare minerals. Agriculture is increasing, but out of the 19,000,000 acres in Maine, only 3,500,000 are improved, in about 65,000 farms, valued at $110,- 000,000. About 8,000,000 bushels of potatoes, 2,800,000 of oats, 1,000,000 of corn, 1,300,000 tons of hay, 2,800,000 pounds of wool, and 1,400,000 pounds of butter, are among the yearly farm-products. There are 90,000 horses, 350,000 cattle, 540,000 sheep, and 70,000 hogs. The Aroostook Valley has the largest area of fertile farming land in New England, composed of a deep yellow porous loam, above a stratum of limestone. Vast areas here remain unoccupied, and may be bought for a nominal price. Apples, pears, cherries, plums, grapes, and berries grow abundantly all over Maine ; and sweet corn and other vegetables and fruits are preserved in cans at many large factories, and have a world-wide reputation. The Government includes a governor, elected biennially by the people, and several executive officers chosen by the legislature, which is composed of a senate of thirty-one members and a house of 151 representatives. The Supreme Judicial Court has eight jus tices, and there are probate and commissioners' courts in each county, and superior, munici pal and police courts. The State House, on the heights over the Ken nebec River at Augusta, dates from 1828-31, and .,, „ . .[-.,,,¦»/..; Jig?;- ?. is of white granite, with ten monolithic Doric col umns, and a graceful and far-viewing dome. It contains the legislative halls ; the State Library of 45,000 volumes; the Rotunda, with 112 battle- flags and guidons of the Maine volunteers in 1 861-5; and the portraits of Pepperrell, Pownall, Knox, Washington, and Lincoln. The Maine General Hospital is at Portland. The Maine} Industrial TOGUS : OLD SOLDIERS' HOME. PORTLAND HARBOR &o' FORT GORGES. THE STATE OF MAINE. 3ll BRUNSWICK : BOWDOIN COLLEGE. School for Girls, at Hallowell, is a refuge for the friendless and imperilled, but not a place of punishment. The State Prison was founded in 1824, at Thomaston, and has 150 convicts. The State Insane Asylum has 600 inmates. The Maine Volunteer Militia in cludes a brigade of two infantry regi ments (of eight companies each) and a battery, and the Frontier Guards, of Eastport ; and is kept in an efficient condition by regular encampments, inspected by United-States offi cers. The Reserve Militia consists of a small and diminishing number of independent companies, kept up without expense to the State. The United-States Buildings in Maine include the beautiful white-marble Post- office and the granite Custom House, at Portland ; public offices in several other cities ; the Kennebec Arsenal, at Augusta, with several thousand stand of arms and many cannon ; and the United-States Marine Hospital, near Portland, overlooking the beautiful Casco Bay. The Navy Yard, at Kittery, dates from 1806, and occupies an island in the Pisca- taqua River, with works which have employed 1,000 men at once, but are now in a ruinous condition. The famous old war-ship Constitution is kept here. Widow's Island, in Penob scot Bay, is a sanitarium maintained by the Government for the quarantine and treatment of the sick with yellow fever. The Eastern Branch of the National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers occupies an estate of 1, 700 acres, formerly used as a summer resort, at Togus Springs, five miles from Augusta This domain has been ceded by Maine to the United States, and is the home of 2,200 uniformed veterans, from many States. The fortifications of Maine include Fort McClary, at Kittery Point ; Forts Preble, Scammel, and Gorges, in Portland Harbor ; Fort Popham, at the mouth of the Kennebec ; and Fort Knox, on the lower Penobscot. The only garrison is one company of United-States artillery, at Fort Preble. Education. — The State Normal Schools are at Castine, Gorham, and Farmington, with the Madawaska Training- School, at Fort Kent. The public schools are thoroughly efficient, and receive their support from State and town taxes. Bowdoin College, at Bruns wick, was incorporated in 1794 and opened in 1802, with a State endowment. It also received large gifts from James Bowdoin, sometime Minister to Spain and France, the son of Gov. Bowdoin, the great-grandson of Pierre Baudouin, a Huguenot gentleman of La Rochelle, who came to Portland in 1689. Nathaniel Hawthorne, Henry W. Longfellow, and Franklin Pierce were students here, at the same time. The sombre beauty of the adja cent pine-groves, the riches of the Bowdoin gallery, of paintings, the stone Memorial Hall, the frescoed chapel, and the library of 40,000 volumes, are among the. treasures of the col lege. There are 190 students, of whom 170 are from Maine ; and in the con nected Medical School there are eighty students, seventy of whom are Maine men. Nearly 4,000 students have graduated here. Colby Univer sity, at Waterville, on the Kennebec, was opened in 1818, and is a Baptist institution, with several brick and stone buildings, and a library of 25,000 volumes. It has 120 students, young men and women. The State College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, at Orono, on the Penobscot, dates from 1868, and has 120 students, uniformed in blue and gray, and drilled as a battalion by a resident F ,„,-, , library. United-States officer. There are five buildings, and a farm of 370 WATERVILLE : COLBY UNIVERSITY. 3i8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. acres. Bates College, near Lewiston, is a Free- Baptist institution for both sexes, founded in 1863. It has ten instructors and 137 students. The Bangor Theological Seminary, founded in 1814, is a Congregational institution. The Free Public Library, presented to Port land in 1889 by J. P. Baxter, is a handsome Portland harbor. Romanesque building. The Bangor Library has 25,000 volumes ; and the Maine Historical Society, 10,000. The libraries at Livermore, Hallowell, Saco, and Belfast have much architectural beauty. Chief Cities. — Portland, "the Forest City," is beautifully situated on a hilly penin sula of Casco Bay, and has a deep and well-sheltered harbor, and a shipping of over 100,000 tons. For many years it has served as a winter-port for Canada, which sends out from and receives thence $50,000,000 worth of goods yearly. The Indians destroyed Portland in 1676; the French and Indians, in 1690; the British, in 1775; and in 1866 a fire swept away $6,250,000. Bangor, a handsome city, on the Penobscot, is one of the great lumber-marts of the world. Augusta, the capital, is a handsome city on the Kennebec River, with a great water-power and fine public buildings. Biddeford and Saco are twin cotton-manufac turing cities. Lewiston and Auburn are contiguous cities, with many cotton-mills. Around the beautiful Penobscot Bay are Rockland, with its active coasting-fleet ; Camden, with its anchor-works ; Belfast once famous for its gallant ships ; and Castine, a tranquil village and summer-resort, surrounded by the ruins of French, British, and American forts. Down on the New-Brunswick border is Calais, with its ship-yards on the St. Croix ; Eastport, perched on a hilly island in Passamaquoddy Bay ; and Lubec, the easternmost American village. In Maritime Trade, Maine stands among the foremost States. It has 2, 500 vessels ( 1 20 steamers), of 500, 000 tons. In the four years, 1882-5, 500 vessels were built in Maine, with a tonnage of 220,000. Twenty of these were of above 2,000 tons each. Forty ship yards employ 2,000 men. Many Maine ships rarely revisit her shores, after sailing away flying light, but spend their lives carrying cargoes between distant ports. Bath, on its magnificent Long Reach, a deep and land-locked stretch of the Kennebec, is famous wherever blue water flows for its staunch vessels. In fisheries, Maine is second only to Massachusetts, with 450 vessels. The fish caught are cod, mackerel, hake, haddock, and pollock. The main waters also contain shad, smelt, salmon, alewives, flounders, rock cod, and cunners. Fifteen lobster canneries employ 600 persons ; and others prepare small herring like sardines. There are 6, 500 men, mainly on the Kennebec and Penobscot, who cut and store yearly 1,000,000 tons of ice for exportation. The Railroads of Maine began ope rations in 1836. The lines from Port land to Boston are owned by the Boston & Maine Railroad, the Eastern Division running through Portsmouth, Newbury- port, and Salem (108 miles), and the Western Division through Dover, Exeter, and Haverhill (116 miles). The Grand Trunk line runs from Portland to Mon treal (297 miles), and beyond. The Can adian Pacific line crosses the savage wild erness, from Lake Megantic to Moose- BOON-ISLAND LIGHT. EASTPORT, AND PASSAMAQUODDY BAY. head Lake and the Penobscot River. THE STATE OF MAINE. 319 PORTLAND HARBOR LIGHT. PORTLAND : CITY HALL. The elaborate networks of Maine railways are nearly all united within the Maine Central Railroad system, operating 607 miles in the State and 166 miles out side, with assets amount ing to $20,000,000. Un til recently its rails were entirely within the State of Maine, from Portland east to the Canadian boundary, 250 miles, with numerous branches from the parent stem. Its two lines from Portland to Waterville, one following the Kennebec River, the other along the Androscoggin, give virtually a double track for 82 miles. Since Maine, with its thousand leagues of glorious rocky sea coast, and its illimitable area of game-haunted forests and lakes, has become the great summer-park of the Atlantic States, this railway has afforded the best of facilities to pleasure-travellers, with Pullman vestibuled trains, and safe and swift service. -It reaches most of the cities of Maine, and sweeps the State from sea to Northern forest. It supplies through-car facilities between "the States" and the Maritime Provinces. A new departure is the lease and construction of lines northwest from Portland, attacking the White Mountains at their most inaccessible point, penetrating the "Heart of the Notch" through scenery incomparable east of the Rocky Mountains. This route gives the i best facilities for travel from the St. Lawrence valley and the seaboard of Mmt^ Maine, the natural winter outlet of the fast-growing com merce of Canada. gPijBS." Westward, the Maine Central leads away across the Connec ticut River and ftps! enters Vermont, where connecting lines transport through- cars from the sea at Portland to Chicago, by way of Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence and Niagara. It is the initial line, also for a through-car route to Montreal by the Can adian Pacific Railway, and by extension and lease has an air-line to Quebec. The road has been very successful, and its phenomenal growth in mileage, rolling-stock, stations and train equipment, is a matter which warrants much praise to its efficient management. The Union Station, at Portland, ranks with the finest in America, and is a perfect gem in architecture, and a model for comfort and convenience. The Maine Central also operates the Portland, Mount-Desert & Machias Steamboat Line, extending eastward from Portland to Penobscot Bay, Mount-Desert Island, and the farther coast of Maine. Altogether, the Maine Central is regarded by railroad men as one of the most successful and most ably managed roads in the country. Steamships. — The beautiful coast of Maine was served by a regular steamship line as early as 1823, the boats running from Boston to Bath, Boothbay, Camden, Belfast, Sedgwick, and Eastport. The Bangor line began to run in 1833 ; and soon afterward Captain San- a new line between Boston and Bangor. Steamship Company in 1882 changed its ton & Bangor Steamship Company, then the presidency and management of William ton. It has three fine and comfortably ap- PORTLAND : UNION STATION : MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD. BOSTON & BANGOR STEAMSHIP CO. Jlftoi/^fftrja i ^ ^f>^ ford established The Sanford name to the Bos- and now under H. Hill, of Bos- pointed vessels, 32° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. IfcOllnl'esl'UOS SB \}« :-|> MJ V>^ pit^af^Js «% „g, B5gf? AUBURN : ARA CUSHMAN COMPANY. the Penobscot, the Katahdin, and the Lewiston, each of about 1,500 tons, and carrying above 500 passengers. Every week-day one of these leaves Boston and Bangor, passing around the granite cliffs of Cape Ann ; crossing the magnificent Penobscot Bay, and traversing the broad Penobscot River. The steamships touch at many a historic point on the Pine-Tree coast — Rockland, whence a connecting boat runs across the bay to Mount Desert ; Camden, nestling under high mountains ; Northport, with its breezy camp-meeting grounds ; Belfast, devastated by British fleets; Searsport, back of Brigadier Island ; Fort Point, with the ruins of Fort Pownall, built in 1758; Bucksport, near the great fortress of Fort Knox; Winterport, the head of navigation in winter; and Hampden. The Boston & Bangor line is one of the most successful and best managed routes in the New- England States. Manufactures. — Auburn is celebrated for its shoe- factories, which have drawn hither an army of intelligent workmen. The largest of these belongs to the Ara Cushman Company, the foremost shoe-manufacturers in Maine. It employs 1,000 hands, occupying three ex tensive four-story buildings, and making an endless variety of boots and shoes for men, youths, and boys. This immense business is the outgrowth of the little one-story "tea can" shop in West Minot, where Ara Cushman in 1 853 began to make shoes, doing all parts of the work himself. After a time, he began to drive about through Maine, with horse-loads of his shoes ; and soon found it necessary to hire men to help him, and to enlarge his quarters. In 1863 he moved to Auburn; and in 1888 the business was incorporated, with Ara Cushman as president and largest stockholder. The paid-in capital is $400,000, and the business reaches $1,500,000 a year. The paper-mills of Maine have long been celebrated for the excellence of their product. One of the best known among them is the establishment of the Poland Paper Company, employing 300 men in its works at Mechanic Falls and its chemical fibre mill at Canton ; and turning out more than $1,000,000 worth of paper yearly. The paper-making at Mechanic Falls began in 1851, and has developed slowly and surely, until now the group of mills, equipped with the latest and best devices in machinery, and provided with abund ant clear water and water-power, can make daily 22 tons of fine book and newspaper. The president of the Poland Paper Company is Arthur Sewall, of Bath, who is also the president of the Maine Central Railroad ; and the treasurer is Charles R. Milliken, the proprietor of the celebrated Glen House, in the White Mountains, and president of the Portland Roll ing Mill. Aside from the water-power at Me chanic Falls, the com pany owns the fiowage privileges of three large lakes, several miles above their mills, where the water is held back by- substantial stone dams, for use during the dry season. The importance of clear water is well understood by paper manufacturers, and the limpid streams of New England have been of great value in this industry. iSLU^s MECHANIC FALLS : MILLS OF THE POLAND PAPER COMPANY. 16,000,000 12,210 6 2,072 24 1,0551,222 2,107 The pleasant shores of Maryland were in ancient times the dwelling-places of the powerful Susquehan- nough Indians, a seceded and hostile Iroquois clan, and of several Algonquin tribes, connected with Powhatan's confederacy, and getting an easy livelihood in the fisheries. The last fragments of the Chesapeake aborigines now dwell in Canada, near Lake Erie. After the failure of his Christian colony of Avalon, in Newfoundland, Lord Baltimore visited Virginia. He came originally from Yorkshire, the home also of the Fairfaxes of Virginia and the Wentworths of New Hampshire ; and in Parliament had distinguished himself as the friend of the King. Hearing that the northern part of Virginia, beyond the Potomac, was a fertile and valuable country, and quite unoccupied (save by tag-rag Indians), he secured it for him self and his heirs, as a county palatine, with the first pro prietary government in America, and the most liberal privi leges ever granted to a colony. The domain belonged to Virginia, according to her original charter, but, as the lat ter was a Royal Province, it became easy for the King to detach this section for his friend. The charter granted by King Charles I. to the moribund Sir George Calvert, the first Lord Baltimore, was issued to his son, Cecilius, who sent his brother, Leonard Calvert, tocolonize the country. Fully 200 persons, gentlemen adventurers and their servants, sailed in the Ark and the Dove, in 1633, and settled at St. Mary's (near Point Lookout), where the first legislative assembly met, in 1635. The colonists were a mixture of Protestants and Catholics, about equally divided. Calvert himself was a Catholic, and sent with them two Jesuit priests ; but they bound themselves to not < ' directly or indirectly trouble, molest or discountenance any person whatsoever in the Province professing to believe in Jesus Christ, for or in respect of his or her religion." Such mutual forbearance was an approach toward religious freedom, then almost Settled at . St. Mary's. Settled in . .... 1634 Founded by ... . Englishmen. One of the Original 13 States. Population in i860, in 1870, In 1880, White,Colored, . . American-born, Foreign-born, . Males, Females, . . In 1890 (U. S. Censu: White,Colored, Population to the square mi , Voting Population, . . . 131,106 Vote for Harrison (1&88), 99,986 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 106,168 Net State Debt, . . ©2,724,123.56 Real and Personal Prop erty, Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, Militia (Disciplined), . Counties Post-offices Railroads (miles), . Vessels Tonnage, 141,431 Manufactures (yearly), 8106,771,393 Operatives, . ... 74.942 Yearly Wages, . . . ©18,904,065 Farm Land (in acres), . .5,185,221 Farm-Land Values, Sl°5.503,34i Farm Products (yearly), $28,839,281 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . . 99,220 Newspapers '7° Latitude, . . 37°53' to 39°44' N Longitude, 75°2' to 79°3o' W Temperature, . . . —6° to 102° Mean Temperature (Baltimore), 54 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). Baltimore, . ... 434,439 Cumberland, . . . I2.72r Hagerstown, Frederick, . Annapolis, . Easton, Lonaconing, Cambridge, , Frostburg, . Havre de Grace, 10,11 8,193 7,0255,0004.5954,1033,6273,219 322 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CUMBERLAND. unknown in the world ; and, although there were stringent laws for banishing or severely punishing "vagabonds called Quakers," persons denying the doctrines of the Trinity, etc., yet many of different denominations sought and found in Maryland a safe refuge from more rigorous enactments elsewhere. Another singular ele ment appeared, when the New-England Puritan mission aries, expelled from Virginia, settled at Providence, which afterwards received the name of Anne Arundel's Town (and later of Annapolis), in honor of Lord Balti more's wife, the daughter of the Earl of Arundel. This colony increased rapidly, and became involved in the political complications in England, adhering to the Pro tectorate, while the Governor, by the direction of Lord Baltimore, adhered to the party of the King. They re fused to take the oath of allegiance dictated by the Gov ernor, who thereupon with 200 men attacked Providence, to the battle-cry of ' ' Hey for St. Mary's." The Roundheads, roaring "In the name of God, fall on," brought the Royal ists to confusion, slaying or wounding 50 men, and making the rest captives. Thus on March 25, 1655, occurred the first land-battle between English-speaking men in America, the precursor of Saratoga and Lundy's Lane, of Shiloh and Gettysburg. Lord Baltimore had much difficulty with Wm. Claiborne, of Virginia, whose trading- stations on the Isle of Kent and Palmer's Island were three years older than Maryland; and it was only after nearly half a century of proscriptions, battles and bloodshed that he finally prevailed over this valiant pioneer. During the Civil War in England Richard Ingle captured Maryland for the Common wealth, and sent its Jesuit priests in irons to England ; but Gov. Calvert re-won the colony in 1646. In 1652 and 1688 the lord proprietor's government was overthrown "";%,*«, by Parliament, incited by the Puritans of Maryland, but Lord Baltimore resumed the dominion at the Restoration. The fourth Lord Baltimore became a Protestant, and in 1 7 14 recovered his do main, after Maryland had been a Crown colony for 26 years. Amid its many changes of government, this vigorous province grew strong and independent, and in 1774 finally overthrew its feudal proprietors. The city of Baltimore was laid out in 1730, and Frederick (named for Lord Baltimore's son) in 1745. The long boundary dispute between the Baltimores and the Penns was set tled when the English surveyors, Mason and Dixon, in 1763-7, run a line 258 miles westward from the Delaware, marked with stone mile-posts, and at every five miles bearing the sculp tured arms of Maryland and Pennsylvania. Human slavery never passed north of this line. At the outbreak of the Revolution the State came into action with the foremost, and the valor of the Maryland Line illuminated many a battle-field. The chief invasion occurred in 1777, when Sir Wra. Howe and his British and Hessian army of 13,000 men sailed up the bay an.d landed on the Elk River, whence they marched to their victorious campaign in Pennsylvania. Maryland refused to join the United States until the Western territories were surrendered to the Government by the claimant States, and when this was done she entered the Union, in 1790. The State suffered greatly during the War of 1812, when Admiral Cockburn sailed.up and down Ches apeake Bay, with a powerful British fleet, and plun dered and burned Frenchtown, Charlestown, Fred- ON THE B. & O. RAILROAD. ANTIETAM : BURNSIDE'B BRIDGE. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 323 HAVRE-DE-GRACE BRIDGE, OVER THE SUSQUE HANNA RIVER. ericktown, Havre de Grace, North East and George town. Her militia suffered a pitiable defeat at Blad ensburg. Ross, the British commander, advanced against Baltimore, saying that he did not care if "it rained militia ; " but the local volunteers, with a Vir ginia brigade and some Pennsylvanian companies, gave him a strong battle at North Point. He won the field, but lost his life and many of his men. Fort McHenry, covering the approach to the city from the sea, suc cessfully endured and returned a bombardment of 19 hours, from Cockburn's squadron, and during this storm of fire and iron, Francis Scott Key, a Marylander imprisoned on the fleet, wrote the noble national song, "The Star-Spangled Banner." Baltimore escaped capture. The first American telegraph was built from Baltimore to Washington, in 1844, with a Government appropriation of $40,000; and the first message over the wires was : "What hath God wrought?" Although a slave State, Maryland refused to join in the Secession movement. The Legis lature convened at Frederick, and favored neutrality. The local Secessionists took an actively disloyal part, and made a bold but unsuccessful attack on the 6th Massachusetts Infantry, hur rying through Baltimore to the rescue of the National capital. This was the first bloodshed of the Civil War. They also burned the bridges north and east of Baltimore, to prevent the advance of Na tional troops to Washington. But Gen. Butler seized Annapolis and Baltimore, and speedily overawed the disunionists. Gov. Hicks begged Gen. Butler not to land his Northern troops on Maryland soil ; but But ler answered that his command should not be called "Northern troops, but a part of the whole militia of the United States, obeying the call of the President. ") After Lee had defeated McClellan and Pope in 1862, he threw his army into Maryland, occupied Frederick, and summoned the people to rise against the Union. But the Marylanders refused, and McClellan, hurrying after him, stormed the passes of South Mountain, and hurled the 70,000 men of the Army of the Potomac in detachments against his 40,000 troops, in posi tion behind Antietam Creek. The result was "a tactically drawn battle and a strategic de feat" for Lee, who lost 12,500 men, and retreated to Virginia, glad to escape with the rem nant of his army. The military prison at Point Lookout was opened in July, 1863, and interned more than 50,000 Confederate captives — 21,000 at one time. After defeating the Army of the Potomac twice on the Rappahannock, in 1863, Gen. Lee again overran western Maryland, during the Gettysburg campaign. Once more the Confederates entered the State, when Early led 1 2, 000 veterans from the Valley of Virginia to seize Washington ; and Lew. Wallace, with a small force, held him in check at the Monocacy long enough to save the National capital, losing 1,400 men on the field. McCaus- land's Southern cavalry meanwhile swept through western Maryland into Pennsylvania, on a town- burning foray. Finally, Phil. Sheridan took com mand of 22,000 foot and 8,000 horse, and whirled the enemy back into Virginia, whence they never more returned to trouble Maryland. From this State 46,638 soldiers served in the United States armies, and 12,000 in the Confederate forces. Washington aqueduct ; cabin-john bridge. WILLIAMSPORT, ON THE POTOMAC. 324 KLNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. FIRST PASSENGER COACH ON THE BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD. BALTIMORE : UNION RAILROAD STATION The Eastern Shore received settlement later than the Western Shore, although the Indians migrated at an early date. In colonial days, "De Esen Sho'" was occupied by great man ors, with massive wide-hailed mansions of English brick, whose masters were famous for their hospitality and their pedigrees, and shipped their tobacco and their eldest sons direct to England from the wharves on their own estates. The eight Eastern counties all had old English names, and their gentry were punctilious communicants of the Anglican Church, good riders and enthusiastic hunters, and kindly disposed toward the plain people and negroes. When the Revolution broke out, Royalist camps sprang up all through Worcester and Somerset Counties ; and it took I, ooo patriot troops to scatter them. Four times the King's men rose in arms, but their Republican neighbors beat them down as often, besides sending to the Continental army the entire Second and part of the First Regiment of the Maryland Line, and hundreds of gallant riders in Pulaski's Legion and Baylor's horse. For 70 years after the Revolution the Eastern Shore ran down, losing in population, health and fertility. During the Civil War, many of its people were fiery Secessionists, and thou sands of them enlisted in the Confederate army. The reforms in education, farming pro cesses, live-stock and other things begun in 1850, and though interrupted by the war, have since gone forward hopefully. The Name of the Province, given by King Charles I., was Terra Mario;, or Maryland, in honor of his wife, Queen Henrietta Maria. The name originally intended was Crescentia, referring probably to the crescent shape of the new domain. Maryland, My Maryland, a favorite pet name for the State, is the refrain of a song written by J. R. Randall, in i860, urging her to join the Southern Confederacy. The melody was the famous old Lauriger Horatius. Other pet names, now nearly forgotten, are The Old-Line State and The Cockade State. The old Maryland Line ranked among the finest bodies of troops in the Continental Army, being largely made up of patrician young men, and held in admirable discipline. They were the dandies of the army, and among their other equipments wore brilliant cockades. The very flower of these troops, Smallwood's battalion, was led by Lord Stirling against a vastly superior force of Cornwallis's grenadiers, charging through the broken American lines at the battle of Long Island. The Marylanders checked the triumphant onset of the British veterans and saved the army, but in a brief 20 minutes 260 of their number perished. The Arms of Maryland are the arms of Lord Baltimore, six pieces, impaled, quartered with crosses buttoned at each end. Above is a count palatine's cap ; and the crest is a helmet, a ducal crown, and two half bannerets. The supporters are a fisherman and a farmer. The motto of Maryland is that of the Calvert family : Fatti Maschii, Parole Femine, an Italian proverb, cited in the great Dictionary of the Accademia della Crusca, thus: "Deeds are males, and words females," and implying that where relay house and Washington viaduct. deeds are needed, words will not suffice. PRINCE GEORGE'S : MARYLAND AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 325 EMMITTSBURG : MOUNT ST. -MARY'S COLLEGE. The Governors of Maryland numbered sixteen under the Proprietary system and several under the Colonial, besides Parliament's commissioners and the Council of Safety. State: Thos. Johnston, 1777-9; Thos. Sinf Lee, 1779-82; Wm. Paca, 1782-5; Wm. Smallwood, 1785-8; John Eager Howard, 1788-91 ; Geo. Plater, 179 1-2; Thos. .Sim Lee, 1792-4; John Haskins Stone, 1794-7; John Henry, 1797-8; Benj. Ogle, 1798-1801; John Francis Mercer, 1 80 1 -3; Rob ert Bowie, 1803-6 and 181 1-2; Robert Wright, 1806-9; Edw. Lloyd, 1809- 11 ; Levin Winder, 1812-5 ; Chas. Ridgely, 1815-8; Charles Goldsborough, 1818-9; Samuel Sprigg, 1819-22; Samuel Stevens, Jr., 1822-5; Jos- Kent, 1825-8; Daniel Martin, 1828-29 and 1831 ; Thos. King Carroll, 1829-30; Geo. Howard, 1831-4; Jas. Thomas, 1834-7; Thos. W. Veazey, 1837-9; William Grason, 1839-42 ; Francis Thomas, 1842-5 ; Thos. G. Pratt, 1845-8 ; Phil. F. Thomas, 1848-51 ; Enoch Lewis Lowe, 1851-4; Thos. Watkins Ligon, 1854-8 ; Thos. Hol- liday Hicks, 1858-62 ; Aug. W. Bradford, 1862-5 ; Thos. Swann, 1865-8 ; Oden Bowie, 1868-72; Wm. Pinkney Whyte, 1872-4; Jas. B. Groome, 1875-6; John Lee Carroll, 1876-80; Wm. T. Hamilton, 1880-4; Robert M. McLane, 1884-6 ; Henry Lloyd, 1881-8; and Elihu E. Jackson, 1888-92. Descriptive. — Maryland is one of the most eccentric in shape of the States, cut into sections by Chesapeake Bay and its many inlets, and bounded for a long distance on the south by the much-winding Potomac, which leaves it 120 miles wide on the bay, and 120 miles west of there reduces it to a width of four miles. The State is divided into the East ern Shore, a level country, east of Chesapeake Bay, abounding in vast peach-orchards, and with quick railway communication with Philadelphia and New York ; Southern Maryland, the seat of the earliest settlements, with its level and naturally fertile lands, now exhausted, and sold at low prices ; Central Maryland, including the thickly settled market -gardening and manufacturing counties of Baltimore, Harford and Howard ; and Western Maryland, rich in mines and beautiful with mountains. Southern Maryland embraces the tide-water counties of St. Mary's, Prince-George's, Charles, Calvert and Anne-Arundel, an angular peninsula between Chesapeake Bay and the Potomac River. In general physical features it resembles the Eastern Shore. The climate is mild and delightful, and the scenery along the creeks is pleasant, with a very varied and luxuriant vegetable growth. Chesapeake Bay, the chief physical feature of Maryland, is the largest .American inlet of the sea, being fully 200 miles long, and navigable for the heaviest ships. At its mouth, be tween Cape Charles and Cape Henry, the width is twelve miles, and higher up, near the Poto mac, it reaches 20 miles. It contains many islands, and covers 2,835 square miles, with more than 400 miles of coast line. The Susquehanna River, emptying near the head of the bay, is navigable for only four or five miles. The estuaries _ which open away from the Chesapeake into tide-water Maryland and Virginia are of remarkable diversity. The Light-House Board has 24 lights on the bay, with in the Maryland lines, with eleven in the Patapsco River, and seven in the Potomac. Chesapeake is from the Algonquin Gitchi, or Kichi, "Great," and Sipi, or Sipik, "Water." The bay abounds in edible fish; and its shores, haunted by canvas-back ducks and other game-birds, afford a favorite hunting-ground for enthusiastic sportsmen, especially during the autumn. Terrapin are found in perfection in these waters ; and the black and striped bass of Port Deposit and Tred- annapoli6 : st.-john's college. 326 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CRISFIELD : OYSTER FLEET. BOOTH PACKING CO. avon, the moccason of Spesutia Island, the white perch of Betterton, the sheepshead of Oxford, the herring of the lower Potomac, the bay mackerel of the Choptank, and the weak-fish of Crisfield, are of famed excellence. The oyster-beds have a great value, and cover immense areas in the estuaries and inlets, certain exempted grounds of which are pro tected against the depredations of Virginian dredgers by a fleet of small armed vessels, maintained by Maryland, but often eluded or resisted, and some times driven away. Baltimore is the chief oyster- packing city of the world. The Chesapeake oysters are the finest known, and the yearly pro duct is 15,000,000 bushels, more than half of which is shipped from Cambridge, Crisfield and other places on the Eastern Shore. The shad and herring fisheries of Cecil and Harford have a great value, and employ many men. The Alleghany streams have been successfully stocked with the celebrated California rainbow trout. At Bal timore is the A. Booth Packing Co.'s main establish ment, where oysters, fruits and vegetables are packed in cans in enormous quantities. The Potomac River rises in the Alleghanies, and flows through a maze of mountains to Harper's Ferry. At the Great Falls it descends 80 feet in ij miles, 40 feet being in a single plunge, amid rocky islands, and then it traverses the Little Falls, a line of rapids falling 37 feet. In this vicinity the noble aqueduct supplying Washington with water from Great Falls crosses Cabin-John Bridge, a beautiful granite span of 220 feet, and the longest stone arch in the world. Fifteen miles below the falls is the city of Washington, 380 miles from the source of the river, and 106J miles from Chesapeake Bay. This lower reach of the Potomac is navigable for large vessels, and finally enters the bay by a low-shored estuary 7J miles wide. The Patuxent River, famous for its oyster- beds, is navigable for 46 miles ; the Patapsco, for 14 miles ; and the Choptank and Nanti- coke for several leagues each. The Eastern Shore is that part of Maryland east of Chesapeake Bay, largely a fertile alluvial plain of light sandy loam and clay, free from stones, dotted with forests of oak and chestnut, and traversed by the estuaries of the Choptank, Pocomoke, Nanticoke, Chester and Elk Rivers. Nearly 4,000 out of the 5,980 square miles of the peninsula between Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay belongs to Maryland, forming nine counties. Along the harborless ocean-side of the Eastern Shore, 33 miles long, extends' the shallow lagoon of Assateague (Synepuxent) Bay, with a narrow sand-strip outside. Ocean City, the leading sea shore resort, stretches its hotels and cottages along this strip, with the gently sloping beach on one side, and on the other the still waters of the bay. On the Chesapeake side the summer-resorts are Oxford and Fair Haven, Tolchester and Bay Ridge. Wheat, corn, oats, rye and barley grow here, and melons, peaches, strawberries and DEER PARK AND OAKLAND. 327 THE STATE OF MARYLAND. other fruits. Stock-raising and dairy-farming are also becoming important industries. The marl-beds afford abundant supplies of fertilizing material. The western shore of tide- water Maryland lies between the Potomac, just, above Washington, and the Susquehanna, including the west inlets of the Chesapeake. For the most part this region consists of rolling plains, rising in the south to the cliffs of the Patuxent. It covers 3,968 square miles, including Howard, Montgomery, Baltimore, Har ford, Carroll and Frederick Counties. West of the tide- <="octin : the potomac river. water region Maryland rises gradually to the great Blue Ridge and the Alleghany Mountains, a series of long ridges parallel with the coast, and enclosing beautiful valleys 20 miles or more in width. The mountains begin beyond Frederick with the long Catoctin Range and South Mountain, and extend to the west frontier, the main Alleghany range lying just west of Cumberland. South Mountain ends with the towering escarpment of Maryland Heights, 1,456 feet high, overlooking Harper's Ferry and the confluence of the Potomac and Shenan doah Rivers, and the seat of formidable batteries during the Secession War. Between South and Catoctin Mountains opens the lovely Middletown Valley, at whose head stand the sum mer-resorts of Penmar and the Blue-Mountain House, 2,000 feet above the sea, and com manding a view far up the Cumberland Valley into Pennsylvania. High Rock overlooks parts of four States, scores of historic towns, and the grand outlines of the Blue Ridge and the Potomac Valley. The Glades is a plateau of 400 square miles on top of the Alleghany Mountains, 2, 500 feet above the sea, beginning at Altamont. In this lofty region are the summer resorts of Deer Park, Mountain-Lake Park and Oakland, along the Baltimore & Ohio Rail road. Braddock's Road was built in 1755, from Alex andria (Va.) to Cumberland and Frostburg, and north into Pennsylvania, to pass the British army to their fatal battle near Pittsburgh. Much of it may still be traced, and the forts erected along the route are partly preserved. The National Road, from Baltimore to Ohio, was constructed early in this century, for a highway between the Ohio and tide-water. The Climate of the State is temperate and salubrious, except on the waterside low lands, where miasma sometimes prevails. The penetration of the land by Chesapeake Bay and its many estuaries gives a certain marine softness to the air and temperature. The Farm-Products of Maryland include yearly 16,000,000 bushels of corn, 6,000,- 000 of wheat, 2,000,000 of oats, 2,500,000 of potatoes, 300,000 tons of hay, and 28,000,000 pounds of tobacco, the whole valued at nearly $40, Peaches, strawberries, and other delicate fruits grow amain in the fertile lowlands. It ranks as the seventh state in the growth of tobacco, and at onetime the crop of Prince-George County was the largest in the Union. Farming utilizes more than half the soil of Maryland. Hartford County alone has 400 houses engaged in canning fruits and vegetables, their product reaching 1,000,000 casesayear. There are 850, 000 head of live-stock; and the mutton and "' dairy-products of the hill-counties are of famed excellence. The peaches, melons and straw berries of the Eastern Shore are sent in vast quantities to the city-markets. ROWLEYSBURG BRIDGE, ON THE B. & O. R. R. ANTIETAM : NATIONAL 328 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Minerals. — The coal-mines consist of horizontal strata, like the Big Seam of George's Creek, 14 feet thick, between Dan's Mountain and Savage Mountain. This coal-basin is 30 miles long and five miles wide, and contains many villages of Welsh and Scottish miners. Much of the valuable Cumberland semi-bituminous coal comes from near Frostburg, 2,300 feet high 1 on Savage Mountain. The Cumberland coal is jet-black, glossy and friable, and makes a good steam fuel. Mining began in 1842, and 17 companies ship 2,500,000 tons yearly. Mineral products include chrome iron of the Bare Hills, specular iron of Sykesville, and zinc, iron and copper of the Frederick region. There are 22 blast-furnaces, making from 20, 000 to 60, 000 tons of iron yearly. The Maryland quar ries produce brecciated marble, slate, sandstone, limestone, porphyry, tripoli, marl and kaolin. The Maryland serpen tine (or green marble) and the black serpentine of Harford Baltimore : catholic cathedral. County are used in ornamental work. Grindstones, mill stones and hones are made from the local buhr-stone ; epsom salts, from magnesite found here ; lime, from the quarries in Baltimore County ; mica comes from Howard County, and granite, from Port-Deposit ; and Northeast has active fire-brick, kaolin and pottery works. Much of the marble used in building the National Capitol came from Baltimore County. The State has many mineral waters, the chief being Carroll White-Sulphur Springs. The Government consists of a quadrennially elected governor; several executive officers; the biennial General Assembly, composed of 26 senators and 91 delegates ; and the Court of Appeals, and minor courts. The State Constitution dates from 1867. The State House at Annapolis dates from 1773, and overlooks Chesapeake Bay and the Severn River. It is a large brick structure of graceful proportions, crowned by a dome, and sur rounded by pleasant enwalled grounds. It contains several historical paintings, and portraits of the gov ernors and the four Maryland signers of the Declara tion of Independence. In the Senate Chamber, Gen. Washington resigned his commission as commander of the army. The State Library numbers 80, 000 volumes. The Treasury is a venerable building near the State House, once the home of the old Provincial Assembly. The Record Office holds the archives of Maryland. Government House is the official home of the gov ernors. The militia is composed of one regiment and five companies of infantry, and five companies of cavalry. The State Penitentiary at Baltimore has above 600 convicts, a ma jority of them colored. The Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb was opened in 1868 at Frederick. Colored deaf-mutes and blind persons-have their asylum at Baltimore. The Maryland Institution for the Instruction of the Blind, near Baltimore, has 250 inmates. The Maryland Hospital for the Insane, at Catonsville, known as the Spring-Grove Asylum, six miles from Baltimore, is an immense structure of Ellicott- - ^ap City granite, facing the Patapsco River and Chesapeake Bay, and also the Blue Ridge. Near Baltimore are the huge Bay- View Asylum, the House of Refuge for vagrant and vicious children of both sexes, the Mount-Hope Asylum (Catholic), and many kindred institutions. The McDonogh Foundations, from a bequest of nearly $1,000,000, have been utilized in a large farm-school for boys of the virtuous poor, twelve miles from Baltimore. The Maryland Confederate Home occupies the POINT OF ROCKS, AND POTOMAC RIVER. • ' - TK'Ta BUND ASYLUM. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 329 BALTIMORE : ENOCH-PRATT FREE LIBRARY. fine old Arsenal buildings and park at Pikeville, six miles from Baltimore, and has 33 inmates, mainly old soldiers of Lee's Army of northern Virginia. Education, served by sufficient State, county and local taxes, is supervised by a State Board of Education. Colored children have separate schools. The State Normal School and the Howard Normal School (for colored students) were established at Baltimore in 1865. The Maryland Agricultural College has a farm c 286 acres, in Prince-George County, eight miles from Washington ; and its buildings on College Hill command a noble view. Chartered in 1856 and opened in 1859, it is the second existing college of agri culture founded in America. The farm and buildings were paid for by liberal citizens ; and the college thus founded afterwards received State and Government aid, on condition that the students form a bat talion of cadets, clad in gray West-Point suits. One of its depart ments, the Maryland Agricultural Experiment Station, publishes and distributes free valuable bulletins and reports. Johns-Hopkins University, endowed by its founder with $3,000, - 000, and incorporated in 1867, was opened at Baltimore in 1876, to afford collegiate education, and also (and mainly) the higher uni versity education for college-graduates. It is perhaps the culmina tion of American educational systems; and has also exerted a profound influence upon the young men of Maryland, who are turning toward their renowned university, as a noble substi tute for the field-sports and the careless life of earlier days. More than half of the students have graduated at other colleges, largely those of the South and West. The university has 55 instructors and 400 students, including 60 from the South (besides Maryland's 185), 40 from the Middle States, 25 from New England, and 25 foreigners. There are 15 free scholarships eligible for students from each of the States of Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. Among the students are 9 doctors of philosophy, 22 doctors of medicine, 17 clergymen, and 218 holders of other degrees. The courses of study are History and Political Science, with 162 students ; Chem istry, 124; German, 119; English and Anglo-Saxon, 94; Mathe matics and Astronomy, 82; Biology, 81; Drawing, 78; Physics, 74 ; Romance Languages and Latin, 69 ; Greek, 58 ; Elocution, 53 ; Logic, Ethics and Psycology, 48 ; Semitic Languages, 43 ; Sanscrit, 39 ; Mineralogy, 38 ; and Pathology, 24. The A mer- ican Journal of Mathematics, American Chemical Journal, Amer ican Journal of Philology, and other learned publications are issued under the auspices of the University. The library contains 35,000 volumes ; and the collections in mineralogy, physics and mathematics have great value. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio), designed and built the 91-inch equatorial telescope and the 21-foot steel dome. The Johns-Hopkins Hospital occupies a commanding site with a magnificent E-shaped group of 17 buildings, of brick and Cheat River blue-stone, occupying an estate of 14J acres on Broadway. It was endowed by Johns Hopkins with $3,400,000, and opened its doors in 1889. The capacity is 400 patients; and the details of the buildings and corridors, heating and ventilation are the results of years of study of European hos pitals, and the councils of distinguished American doctors. It is the largest hospital in America, and perfect as any in the world. Here, also, is a nurses' training-school, with a course of several years, including medical instruction, preparing women for hospital, family or district nursing. BALTIMORE ". METHODIST CHURCH. BALTIMORE; ST. -PAUL'S CHURCH. 33° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. St. -John's College traces its inception to the year 1671, when the General Assembly of Maryland ordered the foundation of a school or college for the education of youth in learning and virtue. The result was King William's School, opened in 1701, and sub sequently merged into St. -John's College, which began its teachings in 1789. Among its graduates were Wm. Pinkney, Reverdy Johnson, and Francis Scott Key (author of ' ' The Star Spangled Banner "). The college was closed (and used as a military hospital) dur ing the Secession War. It is largely patronized by Episcopal families. The emerald green campus of 20 acres, between College Avenue and College Creek, and near the Severn River and the United- States Naval Academy, has the venerable colonial McDowell Hall in the Pinkney Hall, Humphrey are twelve instructors and gray - uniformed battalion artillery drill and tactics. town, was formed from and Gen. Washington consented to its being its benefactors and officers. atColora, dates from 1 741. Westminster. Mount St. - centre, flanked by the ivy-clad Hall, and other buildings. There 92 students, the latter forming a of cadets, instructed in infantry and Washington College, at Chester- the old Kent Free School, in 1783; (then encamped at Newburgh) named for him, and became one of The West-Nottingham Academy, Western Maryland College is at Mary'sCollege, founded at Emmitts- burg in 1808, has a group of stone buildings at the foot of the Blue Ridge, two miles from the cele brated Academy of St. Joseph's (for young ladies) and the mother-house of the Sisters of Charity, founded by Madame Seton. Its gradu ates include Cardinal McCloskey, Archbishops Hughes and Purcell and many other eminent pre lates, statesmen and scholars. The College has 137 students and the ecclesiastical seminary has 31. Other Catholic schools are St. -Charles Col lege, near Ellicott City, preparatory to St. -Sul- pice Seminary and St. -Mary's University, at Baltimore; Rock-Hill College, at Ellicott City; and Woodstock College, for the education of young Jesuits, with a three-years' philosophical and a four-years' theological course. The library contains 65,000 volumes. Here the young Jesuits of all America receive the tra ditional principles and discipline of the Order of Jesus, with a thorough higher education. The Scholasticate of the Congregation of the Most Holy Redeemer is at Ilchester. Mary Garrett has recently erected at Baltimore, for the Bryn-Mawr Preparatory School for girls, a costly fire-proof building, in whose construction large quantities of imported colored and glazed i brick were used. The Baltimore City College, the crown of the local \ fl public-school system, occupies a picturesque build ing in collegiate Gothic architecture. The Centenary Biblical Institute of the Methodist Church is at Balti more. The School of Law of the University of Maryland has 90 students ; and its School of Medicine (founded in 1868) has 235. Baltimore has four other medical and dental BALTIMORE i JOHN6-HOPKINS HOSPITAL. Colleges. BALTIMORE ; JOHNS-HOPKINS UNIVERSITY. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 331 BALTIMORE : THE CITY HALL. The Peabody Institute, at Baltimore, endowed in 1857 by George Peabody with $1,300,000, occupies a white marble building in Grecian architecture, beautifully situated. The library contains 100,000 volumes, mainly those not accessible elsewhere ; and is free to all readers. In the gallery of art the best specimens of sculpture are duplicated, with many valuable pictures. Its conservatory of music instructs 250 students. Its symphonies, piano recitals and choral concerts, are at nominal prices. It furnishes about 100 free lectures by eminent specialists each year. George Peabody also founded the Peabody Education Fund, now exceeding $2,000,000, and ably managed by a distinguished board of trustees, including Robert C. Win- throp, Rutherford B. Hayes, Grover Cleveland, Wm. M. Evarts, Hamilton Fish, Samuel A. Green, and other distin guished men. The income of about $100,000 a year is devoted to education in the South, and over $2,000,000 has thus been expended. The Enoch-Pratt Free Library at Baltimore was founded in 1882, with $1,250,000, by Enoch Pratt, a native of Massachusetts, and for 50 years a Baltimore merchant. Its hand some and fire-proof niarble building, opened in 1 886, contains a grand reading-room and 85,000 volumes ; and there are five branch libraries in various sections of the city. The revenues of the library's fund of $833,333 m cash, invested at six per cent., guaranteed by the city, reach $50,000 a year. Nearly 500,000 books are issued yearly to 42,000 Baltimore families. The Maryland Institute for the Promotion of Mechanic Arts has a commodious building in Baltimore, with schools of art and design and commerce, lecture-courses, night-schools, and 400 students. The library contains 26,000 volumes. The Maryland Episcopal Library has 18,000 volumes; the Archiepisco- pal, 16,000; the New Mercantile, 40,000; the Bar As sociation, 12,000; and there are several other large col lections in Baltimore. The private art collections of Wil liam T. Walters include 200 exceptionally fine paintings, and magnificent bronzes, statuary and ceramics. The title of "Monumental City" is justly applied to Baltimore. The Washington Monument, erected 1816-30, is a column of Maryland marble, 180 feet high, crowned by a statue of the first President. Battle Monument, commemorating the Baltimoreans who were killed in defending the city against the British, in 1814, is a small Egyptian temple of marble, supporting a colossal fasces, on which stands a statue representing the city of Baltimore, with a mural crown, and bearing a laurel wreath. Here, too, is the Odd-Fellows' (or Wildey) Monument ; the McDonogh statue ; and the memorial to James L. Ridgely, grand secretary of the I. O. O. F. from 1840 to 1881. In 1890 the municipality received a bronze statue of George Peabody, by W. W. Story. Mount-Vernon Place has a statue of Chief- Justice Taney, the gift of William T. Walters, and a noble group of bronzes, including Barye's "War," "Peace," "Order," and "Force," and P. Dubois's "Military Courage." At Annapolis the State has erected Rinehart's colossal sitting bronze statue of Roger B. Taney, Chief- Justice of the United States from 1836 to 1846 ; also, Congress, in 1886, placed here a noble statue of the Baron de Kalb, who was mortally wounded while commanding the Maryland Line, at the battle of Camden (S. C), in 1780. The granite monument to Gen. Reno, on the South-Mountain battle-field, and the Baltimore : bryn-mawr school. BALTIMORE I PEABODY INSTITUTE. 33* KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. STREET BRIDGE OVER B. & 0. colossal statue in the National Cemetary at Antietam, are among the memorials of the Secession War. The Catholics have 130 churches in Maryland, and Cardinal Gibbons, the Archbishop of Baltimore, is the Primate of the Church for America. His house is con tiguous to the famous old Baltimore Cathedral, a som bre and massive granite pile, with a classic portico, the Cathedral and the Archiepiscopal residence occupying a half square. The Methodists of Maryland have upwards of 1,000 churches, with a mem bership of 100,000. The Protestant-Episcopal diocese of Maryland includes 170 churches, with 22,000 communicants. The Lutherans have 120 churches; the Baptists, 80; the Presbyterians, 60. Newspapers. — The first newspaper, The Maryland Gazette, was published at Annap olis from 1745 until 1839. The Maryland Journal and Baltimore Advertiser, founded in 1773, changed its name in 1820 to the Baltimore American, and is still published. The head and front of Maryland journalism is the Balti more Sun, published by A. S. Abell & Co., daily and weekly, and an independent national conservative, enterprising and reliable newspaper, with bureaus in the leading news-centres of the Union, and an admirable system of departments. The first rotary printing machine was used by The Sun, which also re ceived and printed the first document transmitted by telegraph. The attractive iron-front building occupied by this paper was the first iron structure erected, and is the home of a large body of trained writers. In 1S36 Arunah S. Abell and two other practical printers founded the Public Ledger, at Philadelphia ; and a year later Mr. Abell founded The Sun, and identified himself with Baltimore and this paper, which he managed with signal ability and success. When he died, in 1888, full of years and honors, The Sun passed under the control of his sons and co-partners, who had personally labored with him in the creation and development of the great newspaper which it has grown to be. In their hands The Sun promises to be even more influential in the future than in the past, as a factor as well as exponent of enlightened public opinion . As a leading newspaper in a democratic State, with a large circulation beyond its borders, and published within a distance which is covered in less than an hour from the National Capital, where its office is one of the most striking and beautiful business build ings that adorn that city, The Sun enjoys exceptional advantages for ex ercising a wholesome influence upon National politics. - National Institutions. — The United States Naval Academy for cadet-midshipmen and en gineers occupies a group of commodious buildings in a park of 50 acres, fronting on the Severn River, at Annapo lis. It was founded in 1845. by George Bancroft, then Sec- druid-hill park. retary of the Navy> and trans- -' BALTIMORE I ' THE BALTIMORE SUN ' .THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 333 ferred to Newport, R. I., during the Secession War. Here stand the Midshipmen's Quarters, Officers' Quarters, Gunnery Building, Observatory, Hospital, Department of Steam Engineering, and Gymnasium. The Library contains 18,000 volumes, and many trophies and flags, and portraits of Farragut, Porter, Perry, Decatur, Preble and other naval chieftains. The Academy grounds are adorned with fine old trees, monuments to heroes of the American fleets, and trophy cannon. There are 57 instructors and 280 naval cadets, each Congressional district being entitled to send one youth, physically and mentally sound, who must bind himself to serve eight years (including the time at the Academy) in the United-States Navy. Each naval cadet receives $500 a year. Fort McIIenry occupies the site of the Revolutionary battery on Whetstone Point, three miles below Baltimore, and is garrisoned by three companies of United- States artillery. It is a star-fort of the old style, with a moderate armament. Fort Carroll, on an artificial island in the Patapsco, 6h miles below Baltimore, is an immense and costly granite work, with heavy guns in its casemates. Fort Washington is an ancient stone defence, on the BALTIMORE ! THE MONUMENTAL Potomac River, 13 miles below Washington. It was designed by Major L'Enfant, in 1812. Fort Foote, also on the Potomac, dates from the period of the Secession War. The United- States Marine Hospital has a group of modern buildings just north of Baltimore. The battle-field of Antietam is consecrated by a National Cemetery, containing the graves of 4,688 dead heroes. The other National cemeteries are at Annapolis and Loudon Park.- Chief Cities. — Baltimore, the metropolis of Maryland, stretches along the pleasant hills which border a deep estuary of the Patapsco River, 14 miles from Chesapeake Bay. It is the fourth maritime city of the Republic, following New York, Boston and New Orleans ; and 3,000 foreign vessels arrive and depart yearly, besides an immense coastwise fleet. Steamships run to Liverpool, Queenstown, Glasgow, Bristol, London, Belfast, Antwerp, 334 KLNG'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BALTIMORE : THE POST-OFFICE. Bremen, Havre, and other European ports. The chief exports are petroleum, grain and tobacco ; and iron, coffee and salt are imported in great quantities. The convergence of many railways makes Baltimore a favorite shipping-point for Western grain and other products, which are handled by several elevators. The exports exceed $50,000,000 a year. In point of manufactures, this is the eighth American city, with iron-mills, smelting-works, sugar-refineries, ship-yards, cotton-mills, and other industries, producing $135,000,000 a year. At the clearing house its total exceeds $700,000,000 a year. The City Hall, built of Maryland marble, in 1868-75, cost $2,271,000; the United-States Post-Office, a. Renaissance palace, cost $2,000,000; and the Exchange has Ionic colonnades of Italian marble. Among other interesting features are the venerable Cathedral, famous in Catholic history; the Norman basilica of St. Paul's, pertaining to the Episco palians; the Peabody Institute ; the Enoch-Pratt Free Library; the Johns-Hopkins Uni versity; the Masonic Temple and the Odd-Fellows' Hall ; and many imposing churches, convents and asylums, and rich libraries. Druid-Hill Park covers over 700 acres, and in cludes a fine old colonial estate, patented in 1688, and famous for its great oaks. It was opened to the people in 1 860, and has noble drives and rambles, lakes and fountains, towers and kiosks, bridges and statues, herds of deer and sheep, and a zoological garden. The city has several other pleasant parks ; and in the suburbs are the beautiful Greenmount and Loudon-Park cemeteries. The water-works bring water from Loch Raven, on the Gun powder River, to the great reservoirs at Clif ton and in Druid-Hill Park, leading five miles through a tunnel, cut through solid gneiss. They cost upwards of $5,000,000. Baltimore has the finest hotel in Maryland, the Hotel Rennert, built in 1885-7, under the personal supervision of its owner, Robert Ren nert, and by day-labor, in order to secure a more solid and lasting structure. The first and second floors are of tiled concrete and rolled iron beams, and the other floors have asbestos felting and plaster on iron lathing, with partitions of hollow concrete blocks, thus making the house fire-proof, in addition to which the stairs are of marble and iron. No effort or ex pense has been spared to make the Rennert equal to any hotel in America, in decoration and furnishing, ventilation and sanitary arrangements. From the Ariel summer garden on the top of the house, a broad view is given over the city and suburbs, since the hotel stands on high ground, in the fashiona ble quarter of Baltimore. Among the guests have been Presi dent Harrison and all his Cabinet, nearly all the United-States Senators (Sherman and Hoar,Evarts and Hawley, and others), Edwin Booth, Mary Anderson, Adelina Patti and many other notables. The Rennert is on the European plan, and the cuisine, as well as the elegant and substantial fire-proof struc ture itself, has given to its owner a world-wide fame. The quaint old capital of Maryland, Annapolis, with its venerable churches and mansions, on streets converging at the State House, rests along the Severn River, two miles from Chesapeake Bay. Frederick, in the rich limestone plain near Baltimore : hotel rennert. the Catoctin Mountains, "green-walled by the hills of Mary- BALTIMORE : THE COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 335 land," was the scene of Whittier's poem of "Barbara Frietchie." Hagerstown, the capital of Washington County, is a manufacturing city, in the hill-country. Cumberland, with large rolling-mills and glass-works and country-trade, nestles on the upper Potomac, be tween Wills', Dan's, and the Knobly Mountains, and near the ' gorge of the Narrows. The Finances of Maryland are safely and wisely admin istered. The net debt of the State is below $3,000,000 ; and the yearly expenditures are about $2,500,000. Frederick and Annapolis have strong banks ; and there is a .large capital invested in the financial institutions of Baltimore, whose saving-banks alone have deposits ex ceeding $25,000,000. The Merchants' National Bank, of Baltimore, dates from 1835, having succeeded the United-States Bank ; and Johns Hopkins was its presi- baltimore : old post-office. dent for seventeen years, until his death (in 1873). The presidency is now occupied by Major Douglas H. Thomas, for nearly thirty years in the banking business here. This is the largest bank in Maryland, and has a capital of $1,500,000, and a surplus and undivided profits of nearly $600, 000, making a working capital of above $2,000,000, with deposits exceeding $5,000,000. The bank has never passed a dividend, and never paid less than six per cent, a year. The directors are conspicuous and influential Balti moreans, whose efforts give strength to this ancient and suc cessful institution. The Merchants' National Bank owns and occupies one of the quaintest buildings in the South, adjoining the old post-office. Several of the private banking-houses of Baltimore rank among the most solid and substantial in the country, being con ducted by men of large capital and long experience. Foremost among these stands Alexander Brown & Sons, founded in 1805, by Alexander Brown, and re-organized in 181 1 under its present title. The New- York, Philadelphia and Boston bank ing-houses of Brown Bros. & Co., and the London firm of Brown, Shipley & Co., originally started as branches of the Baltimore house, are closely allied with the Baltimore firm, their American offices being connected by private wires. Alexander Brown & Sons conduct a large foreign and domestic business, in stocks and bonds, bills of exchange and letters of credit, and the negotiation of railroad and municipal loans. The personnel of the firm includes Alexander Brown, a great-grandson of the founder of the house, and Wm. G. Bowdoin, for nearly 20 years a partner. Beginning almost with the century, this great financial institution has enjoyed a long career of success, and is honorably known all over the world. Under the able and conservative influences of financial institu tions like these, the city of Baltimore has attained a noble mercantile preeminence on the Southern seaboard, and far into the interior. Railroads. — The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad was organized in 1827, and opened construction the next year, reaching Elli- cott's Mills in 1830. The work of grading was begun by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, then the only surviving signer of the Declara tion of Independence. The motive power was by relays of horses, which drew the little trains to Frederick and back, the horses being changed at the Relay House. The cars were clapboard shanties on wheels, 12 feet long, with three windows on each side, and a deal table in the centre. The driver sat on a high seat in front, and the conductor stood on steps in the rear. One horse alex. brown * sons bankers, drew each car, at seven miles an hour ; and when the wheels BALTIMORE J MERCHANTS' NATIONAL BANK. 336 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. were made larger, and better horses were used, they made ten miles an hour. In 1830 Peter Cooper tried steam-power on the line to Ellicott's Mills, his engine weighing less than a ton, with a little upright boiler like that of a kitchen range. This was the first locomotive built in America, and Peter Cooper acted as engineer, brakeman and conductor of the first passenger-train, containing the directors of the road, and making the run of 13 miles in 57 minutes. The line reached Harper's Ferry and Washington in 1836; Cumberland, in 1842; and Wheeling, in 1853. Up to that time its 379 miles had cost $1 5,639,000. The railway has con structed many interesting works, from the noble viaduct at the Relay House to the great tunnels, bridges, viaducts and gal leries of the mountain-region. On its grand routes from the East to the West, crossing the Alleghany Mountains, the Baltimore & Ohio line traverses some of the finest scenery on the continent, and passes many historic and interesting points, like Harper's Ferry, Cumberland, Pittsburgh, and Wheeling, and the famous summer-resorts of Deer Park and Oakland. It reaches out from Baltimore to Philadelphia and New York, on one side, and by way of Washington to the West on the other, finding its farthest terminals at Cincinnati Baltimore : office of the Baltimore and Chicago. Its magnificent equipment is unsurpassed on & OHI° RAILR0A0- any road, and its perfect net-work of connections to all routes of the company make the Baltimore & Ohio one of the pre-eminent railroads of America. The Baltimore & Potomac Railroad runs from Baltimore to Washington, and to Pope's Creek, on the lower Po tomac. The Northern Central line runs from Baltimore to Harrisburg ; the West ern Maryland, from Bal timore to Williamsport; and the Maryland Cen tral, from Baltimore to Delta (Penn. ). There are two first-class railways between Baltimore and Philadelphia. The great railway-bridge across the Susquehanna at Havre de Grace was built by the Keystone Bridge Co. , of Pitts burgh. Railroads running southwest from Delaware traverse the Eastern Shore to Chesa peake Bay, reaching Crisfield, Cambridge, Oxford, Centreville, Chestertown, and Easton. The Atlantic Coast Line, from Boston and New York to Florida and the Gulf States, passes through Baltimore, where it has well-equipped offices. The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal unites the two great bays. The Susquehanna & Tide-Water Canal follows the Susque hanna River from Pennsylvania to Havre de Grace. The Manufactures of Maryland exceed $100,000,000 in their annual output, having an invested capital of $70,000,000, and employing 75,000 operatives. The Southern States are largely supplied with dry goods from Baltimore, which in this department of trade is a lead ing distributive centre. One of the great dry-goods houses of this country is Hurst, Purnell & Co., whose history, cov ering a period of over half a century, is closely interwoven with the mercantile history of Baltimore. This extensive Baltimore1 iiui-xi 1 PURNELL & CO. BALTIMORE : BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD TERMINAL8. THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 337 BALTIMORE : ARM STRONG, CATOR &C0. business was founded in 1831, and from that time to the present the house has enjoyed an uninterrupted success, always maintaining, through evil and good report, the highest stand ard of mercantile integrity, which, together with o. broad, comprehensive and capable management, have been conspicuous characteristics of the house since its foundation. Their travelling salesmen penetrate all the lower Atlantic and Ohio-Valley States, continually replenishing the stocks of thousands of the dry-goods stores in the various cities and villages embraced in this terri tory. In their spacious seven-story iron building Hurst, Purnell & Co. carry one of the most complete and attractive stocks of dry goods and notions to be found in this country. Baltimore is a large importer and manufacturer of millinery, which is distributed thence throughout the entire South, and large areas of the West. The leading house is Armstrong, Cator & Co., founded in 1816 by Thomas Armstrong, who was joined in 1847 Dy Robinson W. Cator, the present head of the firm. The six handsome buildings occupied as sales rooms stand on the site of Rochambeau's headquarters and the old Poe mansion. The resources of the firm are not far from $1,000,000; and their employees number 200, independent of those in their manufacturing department. The goods which this enterprising company sends throughout all the country, from Pennsylvania to Florida, and also to Missouri and Kansas and inter-mediate States, include not only millinery, but also large lines of notions and white goods. Armstrong, Cator & Co. are the peers of any millinery house in the United States. In Baltimore and vicinity is made three fifths of all the cotton-duck used in the United States, and here are located several well-known cotton-duck mills. The largest of these, and, in fact, the largest in the world, are the Mount-Vernon Company's mills, which started in 1848, under the presidency of William Kennedy, and the management of David Carroll, one of the pioneers of this industry. Cotton-duck is used for a variety of purposes — for threshers and reapers, for belting and hose, for sails, for mining, for tents and other army purposes, for mail pouches, for awnings, and other uses. At these mills it is made in various widths, from four to 132 inches, and of 50 different thicknesses. The Mount-Vernon mills employ about 1,300 people, with 50,000 spindles, and produce yearly 10,000,000 yards of cotton-duck, con suming 25,000 bales of cot ton. In the early days of these mills, it was necessary only to haul out a bale of cotton a day, in a cart, which brought back the total pro duct ; but now it requires three six-horse teams, each making two loads a day, and each time carrying very many times the capacity of the old-fashioned cart with its single trip a day. In 1876, the Mount-Vernon Company was awarded a medal at the Centennial Ex position for the best cotton-duck. The mills are picturesque groups of buildings adjacent to Druid-Hill Park, and at Phoenix. For the last 13 years, Richard Cromwell has been the president, and under his administration the works have been materially enlarged. Fine Baltimore hats have long been the standard for the whole country. While American manufacturers had a tedious struggle in overcoming the prejudice existing in favor of foreign hats, a steady endeavor to win the approval of Americans for those of American make, did at last secure a genuine success, and to-day American-made hats stand unrivalled in the world. Jacob Roger's factory, erected in 1805, on the site of the present Corn and Flour BALTIMORE '. MOUNT-VERNON COTTON-DUCK MILLS. 338 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BALTIMORE : BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO. Exchange, was then the largest in America; and in 1814 Runyon Harris built another hat-factory, which- passed, a few years later, into the hands of Aaron Clap & Co. , a house founded in 181 7. As new men entered the firm, the style and title changed several times, until finally the house of Aaron Clap & Co. was succeeded in a direct line by Brigham & Hopkins, now Brigham, Hopkins & Co., who are recog nized as leading American makers of fine straw hats. Their factory at the corner of German and Paca Streets is a spac ious and architecturally handsome building, and the celeb rity of the products of the firm gives them the foremost posi tion in their line of trade. With salesrooms in New York and Baltimore, Brigham, Hopkins & Co. show the best pro ducts, manufactured with all the traditional skill of Baltimore hatters, increased by the practical experience of generations. The Robert Poole & Son Iron Works are supplied with a full equipment of the heaviest and most modern tools and appliances ; and during the last decade their business has won derfully increased. The company manufactures machine-moulded gearing, stationary en gines and boilers, and the famous Leffel turbine water-wheels ; together with a great variety of machinery for the distribution of power in cotton and woolen mills, grain elevators, fertilizer and paper factories, and flour and grist mills. Another celebrated product is the cable-driving machinery used by street cable railways in New York, Chi cago, St. Paul, Kansas City, Omaha, Denvei, and other cities, whose highly successful plants are made by the Pooles. The works of the Robert Poole & Son Company, cover 25 acres, in the Woodberry suburb of Baltimore, with substantial buildings. Robert Poole founded the business in 1841 ; and after the lapse of a half-century he still remains as its president and treasurer, the concern in 1889 having been incorporated, with a paid-in capital of $350,000, and employing 400 experienced mechanics. The foremost iron and steel manufacturers in Maryland are the Pennsylvania Steel Com pany, whose new works are at Sparrow's Point, nine miles from Baltimore, where the cor poration has a long stretch of deep water frontage, suit able for the discharging of ^ the cargoes of iron ore from its Cuban mines. Between 1887 and 1 89 1 the company spent over $2, 000, 000 on this great plant. Four blast furnaces are now in full opera tion ; and a Bessemer plant and a rail-mill have also been erected and started. There is also a very complete ship-building plant at Sparrow's Point, and it has already done considerable work of value. The land owned by the Pennsylvania Steel Co. in this locality, on tide-water, is about 1,000 acres. The main and older works areat Steelton(Penn.), and are told of in the Pennsylvania chapter. BALTIMORE : ROBERT POOLE A SON CO. Sreelt>"T- ' f PENNSYLVANIA STEEL CO. 'S WORKS AT SPARROW'S POINT. Personal Property, . S553,996,8ii State Debt (Jan. i, i8qi), S27.5n.150 Sinking and Trust Funds, $3,623,512 Counties, 14 Cities (Pop. over 12,000), 28 Towns, 323 Number of Post-offices, . 859 Railroads (miles), . . , 3,809 Manufactures (yearly), $631,000,000 Colleges 13 Professional Schools, . 16 Public Schools, .... 7.147 Private Schools and Academies, 511 Behold her, and judge for your selves. There is her history; the world knows it by heart. The past, at least, is secure. There is Boston, and Concord, and Lexington, and Bunker Hill ; and there they will remain forever. The bones of her sons, falling in the great struggle for Independence, now He mingled with the soil of every State from New England to Georgia ; and there they will lie forever. And, sir, where American liberty raised its first voice, and where its youth was nurtured and sustained, there it still lives, in the strength of its manhood and full of its original spirit. If discord and disunion shall wound it, if party strife and blind ambition shall hawk at and tear it, if folly and madness, if uneasiness under salutary and neces sary restraint, shall succeed in separating it from that Union by which alone its existence .is made sure, it will stand, in the end, by the side of that cradle in which its infancy was rocked ; it will stretch forth its arm, with whatever vigor it may still retain, over the friends who gather round it ; and it will fall at last, if fall it must, amidst the proudest monu ments of its own glory, and on the very spot of its origin. " — Daniel Webster. The inhabitants of Massachusetts, before the invasion from Europe, were several tribes of Algonquin Indians — the Pawtuckets, in the Merrimac and Mystic valleys ; the Massachusees, around Boston ; the Nausets, on Cape Cod ; the Wampanoags (or Pokanokets), toward Narragansett Bay ; and the Nipmucks, in the Nashua Valley and Worcester County. The Connecticut Valley contained the Squawkeag, Nonotuck, Waranoke, Agawam, Tunxis, and Podunk tribes, all confederated under the headship of the Pocomtucks, who dwelt about Deerfield. These allied clans dominated the valley from Brattleborough to Hartford. The wild hill-country to the west, as far as the Founded by ... Englishmen. One of the 13 original States. Population in 1 Whites, . Blacks, . Americans, . , Foreigners, . Males, . . Females, . . . Population in 1890, . Polls Vote for Harrison (1 Vote for Cleveland (1 Real Property (1890); 1,942,141 1,922,044 12,999 1,415.274 526,867 932,884 1,000,257 2,238,943 507.959 183,892 . 151.855 §1,600,137,807 Pupils, of all ages, Public Libraries, . . Vols, in Pub. Libraries, Area (square miles), . Farm Land (acres), U. S. Congressmen, Militia 260 Nat. Banks, Dep's, 429,671 * 5£> . 3,569.085 8,04a 3,898,429 13 5,000 $167,000,000 8372,476,568 103 170 Sav'gs Co-operative Banks Daily Papers, . Periodicals, etc., Temperature, . . — 20° to iooo"F. Longitude, 690 53' to 730 32' W. Latitude, . . 4iQ 14' to 43° 53' N. Mean Temperature (Boston), . 400 Ten Chief Cities in 1890. Boston, . .... 448,477 Worcester, 84,655 Lowell, . . - 77,698 Fall River, . 74,398 Cambridge, 70,028 Lynn 55,727 Lawrence, . 44.654 SpringheM, . . 44,179 New Bedford, . . 40,733 Somerville, . 40,152 34° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Hudson, lay desolate and empty, except for the few wigwams of the Housatonics, in the ' Stockbridge region. Each tribe contained several local clans, whose names, attached to > ^s, hills, rivers, and lakes, are the only memorials of a vanished nation. They were a brave and simple race, subsisting mainly by hunting and fishing, with little plantations of corn and beans, and dwelling in rude wigwams, near the bright ponds and in the fair valleys. Some people suppose, on the evidence of the Icelandic Sagas, that this coast was visited by the Norsemen, about the time of the Crusades, and that Leif Ericsson, one of their Viking chiefs, suffered death at the hands of the natives near Boston Harbor. A noble bronze statue of this chieftain adorns Commonwealth Avenue, in Boston. Prof. E. N. Hors- ford, the author of several learned monographs about the ancient Norse colonies in Massachusetts, has erected a picturesque stone memorial tower, near the confluence of Charles River and Stony Brook, where he claims to have traced the remains of the ancient fortress of Norumbega. Before the year 1 500, the Cabots may have cruised along this silent coast. Later came Verrazano, Cortereal and other explorers ; and boston : Norseman statue. much later; pring; champlain, Waymouth and others. Gosnold estab lished an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, one of the Elizabeth Islands, in 1602 ; and in i6i4Capt. John Smith made a map of the coast. Through these explorations the way was opened for the occupation by religious enthusiasts from England. The settlements occurred at several points. The Pilgrim Fathers,, a band of evangelical Separatists (Congregationalists) from the Church of England, after twelve years of exile in Holland, sailed from Delft for America, intending to found a colony near the Hud son River. But their ship, the Mayflower, made its landfall farther north, at Cape Cod; and December 21, 1620, they landed (102 in y number) at New Plymouth (whose surrounding country is still known ^SirgMff as The Old Colony). Half of them died during the first winter. Mas- :l'$£P^c sasoit, the Indian sovereign, treated the survivors with great kindness, and made a treaty of peace with them. The Massachusetts-Bay ipS£7?^~ colony was founded at Salem by John Endicott, in 1628 ; and in 1630 boston : faneuil hall. Gov. John Winthrop and 17 shiploads of colonists came over seas, and the capital was trans ferred, first to Mishawum, which was named Charlestown, and next to the Indian corn-fields of Shawmut (then re-named Boston). Another and much smaller colony, under Thomas Mayhew, secured a grant from the Earl of Sterling, of the islands of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, and held them, under the government of New York, until 1695, when they were ceded to Massachusetts. New colonies moved up and down the coast, and into the interior, founding Lynn and Marblehead, Ipswich and New bury, on the shores of Essex ; the inland towns of Cambridge, Newton, Sudbury, Lancaster, Brookfield and Worcester ; and the Connecticut- Valley settlements of Deerfield, Northampton, and Springfield. A noble ¦ bronze statue in the latter city commemorates one of these typical pioneers — a sturdy, bearded Puritan, in a steeple-crowned hat, with a hoe in one hand, and a bell-mouthed musket in the other. In 1643, when Cromwell was fighting the King, in England, the colonies of Massachusetts, Plymouth, Connecticut and New Haven formed a confederation for mutual defence against the Indians and the gjf Dutch, and this incipient but formidable United States endured 'for over 40 years. Massachusetts alone had 4,000 men-at- arms and 400 cavalrymen. The semi-theocratic and ecclesias tical governments of the Plymouth Pilgrims and the Boston THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 341 BOSTON : OLD STATE HOUSE. Puritans (who in old England had belonged to the party trying to reform the Anglican Church from within) were modified in 1684 by the revocation of the colony charter, and in 1691 Massachusetts, Maine and Plymouth were united in one government, under the name of the Province of Massachusetts Bay in New England. The intolerance prevalent in Europe was felt here also, and Roger Williams, John Wheelwright and many other alleged schismatics were driven forth into exile, while others, so contumacious as to be a danger to the community, suffered death. At the same time, Eliot, Mayhew and divers other apostolic men converted ten Indian tribes to Christianity. For many years parts of New Hampshire and Vermont were included in Massachusetts ; and Maine remained a part of it also, from 1651 until 1820. Rhode Island and Connecticut received their first settlers from Massachusetts. The National Monument to the Forefathers, standing on a high hill near Plymouth, and visible for leagues by land or sea, is an imposing memorial of the Pilgrims. The central figure, Faith, is the largest granite statue in the " world (36 feet high) ; and on pedestals below the base are colossal statues, representing Morality, Law, Education, and Freedom. Historical records and bas-reliefs further adorn this mighty monument. The celebrated Plymouth Rock, ' ' the corner-stone of the Repub lic," is down near the water-side, under a lofty granite canopy ; and many relics of the ancient colonists are sacredly preserved in Pilgrim Hall. A few miles distant across the bay, on Captain's Hill, in Duxbury, a handsome circular stone tower has been erected to the memory of Miles Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrim colony, whose colossal statue crowns its summit, and is visible for six leagues at sea. The Bay colonists, more wealthy, influential and ener getic than those of Plymouth, were also less lenient and liberal. Their chief motive in self-exile lay in securing freedom to worship God in their own way. The sagacious English gentlemen who secured the charter, authorizing them to transport and govern colonists here, and to repel invaders, came themselves to Massachu setts, bringing the charter with them, and formed a practically independent State. They banished certain people who differed with them in doctrine, such as the Antinomians and the Quakers. Only four years after the settlement, when Eng land talked of vacating their charter, the colonial leaders fortified Boston harbor and put their train-bands under arms. But in 1684 the charter was vacated, and the self- governing semi-theocratic State was suspended, until after the deposition of Andros in 1689. Sir Edmund Andros '/ was commissioned Governor of New England; but the ;"£s>**'¥Ti? as The Old Colony). Half of them died during the first winter. Mas- V Riife }''¦ sasoit, the Indian sovereign, treated the survivors with great kindness, and made a treaty of peace with them. The Massachusetts-Bay P colony was founded at Salem by John Endicott, in 1628 ; and in 1630 boston : faneuil hall. Gov. John Winthrop and 17 shiploads of colonists came over seas, and the capital was trans ferred, first to Mishawum, which was named Charlestown, and next to the Indian corn-fields of Shawmut (then re-named Boston). Another and much smaller colony, under Thomas Mayhew, secured a grant from the Earl of Sterling, of the islands of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, and held them, under the government of New York, until 1695, when they were ceded to Massachusetts. New colonies moved up and down the coast, and into the interior, founding Lynn and Marblehead, Ipswich and New bury, on the shores of Essex ; the inland towns of Cambridge, Newton, Sudbury, Lancaster, Brookfield and Worcester ; and the Connecticut- Valley settlements of Deerfield, Northampton, and Springfield. A noble • bronze statue in the latter city commemorates one of these typical pioneers — a sturdy, bearded Puritan, in a steeple-crowned hat, with a hoe in one hand, and a bell-mouthed musket in the other. In 1643, when Cromwell was fighting the King, in England, the colonies of Massachusetts, Plymouth, Connecticut and New Haven formed a confederation for mutual defence against the Indians and the ' Dutch, and this incipient but formidable United States endured _ 'for over 40 years. Massachusetts alone had 4,000 men-at- "^cha'rlestown : ~ arms and 4°° cavalrymen- The semi-theocratic and ecclesias- bunker-hill monument. tical governments of the Plymouth Pilgrims and the Boston THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 341 BOSTON : OLD STATE HOUSE. Puritans (who in old England had belonged to the party trying to reform the Anglican Church from within) were modified in 1684 by the revocation of the colony charter, and in 1691 Massachusetts, Maine and Plymouth were united in one government, under the name of the Province of Massachusetts Bay in New England. The intolerance prevalent in Europe was felt here also, and Roger Williams, John Wheelwright and many other alleged schismatics were driven forth into exile, while others, so contumacious as to be a danger to the community, suffered death. At the same time, Eliot, Mayhew and divers other apostolic men converted ten Indian tribes to Christianity. For many years parts of New Hampshire and Vermont were included in Massachusetts ; and Maine remained a part of it also, from 1651 until 1820. Rhode Island and Connecticut received their first settlers from Massachusetts. The National Monument to the Forefathers, standing on a high hill near Plymouth, and visible for leagues by land or sea, is an imposing memorial of the Pilgrims. The . central figure, Faith, is the largest granite statue in the " world (36 feet high) ; and on pedestals below the base are colossal statues, representing Morality, Law, Education, and Freedom. Historical records and bas-reliefs further adorn this mighty monument. The celebrated Plymouth Rock, "the corner-stone of the Repub lic," is down near the water-side, under a lofty granite canopy ; and many relics of the ancient colonists are sacredly preserved in Pilgrim Hall. A few miles distant across the bay, on Captain's Hill, in Duxbury, a handsome circular stone tower has been erected to the memory of Miles Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrim colony, whose colossal statue crowns its summit, and is visible for six leagues at sea. The Bay colonists, more wealthy, influential and ener getic than those of Plymouth, were also less lenient and liberal. Their chief motive in self-exile lay in securing freedom to worship God in their own way. The sagacious English gentlemen who secured the charter, authorizing them to transport and govern colonists here, and to repel invaders, came themselves to Massachu setts, bringing the charter with them, and formed a practically independent State. They banished certain people who differed with them in doctrine, such as the Antinomians and the Quakers. Only four years after the settlement, when Eng land talked of vacating their charter, the colonial leaders fortified Boston harbor and put their train-bands under arms. But in 1684 the charter was vacated, and the self- governing semi-theocratic State was suspended, until after the deposition of Andros in 1689. Sir Edmund Andros was commissioned Governor of New England; but the train-bands of Boston in 1689 overthrew his arbitrary A power, and imprisoned him and many of his officers, until they were sent to England for trial. William and Mary, the incoming King and Queen of England, granted the new Province charter ; and appointed as Governor (1692) Sir Wm. Phips, a native knight. Then followed the ter rible witchcraft delusion, wherein 20 alleged witches were put to death at Salem. PLYMOUTH : PILGRIM HALL. WATERTOWN : NORUMBEGA TOWER. 342 KING 'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. SUDBURY: LONGFELLOW'S "WAYSIDE INN. ; When the settlements began to encroach on their domains, the Indian tribes rose in arms, and there followed a long series of terrible wars, between 1637 (the Pequot war) and 1760 (the con quest of Canada), in which scores of colonial vil lages were destroyed by the natives, and many thousands of whites suffered death. During the frequent wars between France and England, offi cers and soldiers of the French army aided the Indians in their forays on Deerfield, Haverhill, and other hamlets. Several naval expeditions sailed from Boston against the French possessions at the northward and eastward, capturing Port Royal (Annapolis) ; and later the proud fortress of Louisbourg surrendered to New-England forces, and other French settlements in Acadia were captured. Meantime, the Province gained mightily in population and wealth, and also in commercial and military power. There were 250,000 inhabitants here when the British Government began the aggressive acts which resulted in the Revolutionary War. On the soil of this State occurred the first battles of that conflict, in which the larger part of the army was composed of Massachusetts men, many of them veterans of the long campaigns against the French and Indians. A plain stone monument on Lexington Green, and a capi tal bronze statue of a minute-man at Concord Bridge, com memorate the battles of April 19, 1775, when 800 British grenadiers and light infantry were driven back into Boston, with a loss of 273 men. They would have been annihilated, but for the arrival of Lord Percy with reenforcements. The picturesque old Powder House, still carefully preserved near Somerville, was built before 1720, and captured and emptied by Royal troops in J 774. During the siege of Bos ton, it became the chief magazine'of the American army. Bunker-Hill Monument (in Charlestown) is a noble granite obelisk, 221 feet high, begun in 1825, Lafayette laying the corner-stone, and finished in 1842, Daniel Webster delivering the address. It commemorates the battle of June 17, 1775, when 1,500 New-Englanders repulsed two determined attacks from 4,000 British regulars, and gave way before the third assault (their powder having been expended), losing in all 450 men to the British 1,054. During the battle Charlestown was burned by hot shot from British batteries in Boston. The Washington Elm at Cambridge, the site of the ancient Indian councils, and of the town meetings in colonial days, stands near Harvard University, and is carefully preserved, because under its branches, July 3, 1775, Washington took command of the American army. Washington's headquar ters in Cambridge, not far from the Elm, is a fine old colonial mansion, subsequently for many years the home of the poet Longfellow. A similar antique house, a little beyond on Brattle Street (formerly Tory Row), is Elmwood, the home of James Russell Lowell. Ball's noble equestrian statue of Wash ington (made at the Ames works at Chicopee) adorns the Pub lic Garden, at Boston. A marble statue of Washington, by Sir Francis Chantrey, is in the State House. At Newburyport Cambridge : the Washington elm. stands J. Q. A. Ward's bronze statue of the great Virginian, ^*^St Jb^B- i^^v^fe"-^ 4 §111 '¦ taSUb " ¦p^^R Oil 1 '^fi^lffiMflBltii - -Wit/" — n - i SALEM : HAWTHORNE'S BIRTHPLACE. 343 THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. one of the best ever made. On Cambridge Com mon are three large cannon, captured at Fort Ticonderoga, in 1775 ; brought to Cambridge by Gen. Knox ; and used by Washington in bombarding Boston. The Old State House in Boston is another monument of the Revolution ary days, having been built in 1 748, and for many years the seat of the Provincial and State legis latures. Outside, at the head of King (now State) Street, the British main-guard fired upon provincetown, cape cod. the citizens, March 5, 1770, killing and wounding many. This affair, called the "Boston Massacre," is commemorated by a monument erected on Boston Common, in 1888. The Old South Meeting- House in Boston dates from 1729, and was the scene of Whitefield's preaching, the election sermons of 150 years, and the most impassioned appeals of the patriot leaders before the outbreak of the Revolution. During the siege, it became a riding- school for the penned-up British cavalry. Like the Old State House, this venerable build ing is now used as an historical museum, and preserved with sacred care. Faneuil Hall was given to Boston by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, in 1742, and rebuilt in 1768, becoming in succession a barrack for the British 14th Regiment, a forum for patriotic American speeches, and a theatre for besieged British officers. In later years, even until now, it has been the people's re sort in all kinds of excitement, war-meetings, politi cal rallies, receptions, and banquets. It is popu larly and affectionately known as "The Cradle of Liberty." British rule in Boston ceased March 17, 1776, when the Royal army went away by sea, the fleet also conveying into exile over 1,000 people of the Province, mostly of the patrician families, who re mained loyal to the King. The valor of Massa chusetts soldiers and the wise diplomacy of her statesmen contributed largely to the success of the Revolution. Of the 231,791 troops sent by all the American colonies into the field, 67,907 were from Massachusetts, which con tributed more than double the number enrolled from any other colony. In the Continental Line alone she had 15 regiments. In 1780 the State adopted a Constitution, to replace its provisional government ; and in 1788, by a very small majority, it accepted the Federal Con stitution. In 1786, during a season of great discontent on account of crushing taxes, Daniel Shays headed an insurrection in the rural counties, and raised an army of 2,000 men, with which he broke up the courts and attacked the Springfield arsenal. This force melted away, after a few skirmishes with the 4,000 State troops of Gens. Lincoln and Shepard. The War of 1812-15 with Great Britain and the Mexican War of 1846-47 were unpopular here, but the State furnished efficient quotas for both, espec ially to the navy, whose bravest ship, the Constitution, came from her dockyards. Although the majority of her citizens for a long time had but little sympathy with the Anti-Slavery movement, its leaders, Garrison, Phillips, Sumner and others, were of this community, and John Brown was a native. The men and money newburyport : the chain bridge and merrimac river. MONUMENT OVER ROCK. and armaments which kept slavery out of Kansas came mainly from this State. When the Secession CONCORD ; THE MINUTE- MAN STATUE, 344 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR OF BOSTON, FROM TELEGRAPH HILL, AT HULL. War broke out, in 1861, the Massachusetts militia was the first to respond to the Presi dent's call for troops, armed and equipped in all points ready for the field. In the Federal army 159,165 men enlisted, being 15,000 in excess of the quota, and only 1,200 were drafted men. Of these, 3, 749 were killed in battle ; 9,086 died from wounds or disease, in the service ; and 5,866 disappeared as "missing." Upwards of $50,000,000 were spent in the war by the State and its towns and in private con tributions. The chief memorials of those brave but unhappy days are the 269 tattered flags brought home by the volunteers, and now preserved in great arches, fronted with plate glass, in the Doric Hall of the State House. The Army and Navy Monument stands on Boston Common, with allegorical statues of America, the North, the South, the East, the West, Peace, History, the Army and the Navy ; and scores of soldiers' monuments and memorial halls may be found in other cities and villages. A memorial battery on one of the hills of Somerville occupies the site of one of Washington's forts, and is mounted with cannon from the Secession War. It thus commemorates two struggles for freedom. The Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, on the sea- viewing heights over Chelsea, affords a comfortable refuge for 140 —*»•=- <^=* broken veterans whom the State furnished svjRit^S^SS^^^^-S*^ --¦''•?<- -- f™ 'hc military service of the Republic, with daily reveille, tattoo, and taps. The institution is maintained by popu lar subscriptions. For the past 25 years the State has been prospering greatly, while changing its investments in navigation into manu- BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE : fa harvard bridge. factures and Western railroads. The vexed questions of the day, woman suffrage, the prohibition of liquor-sales, the new theology, civil-service reform, socialism, nationalizing of industries, and free-trade, have been and are being discussed and experi mented upon ; and the State has taken an earnest part in healing the wounds left by the Secession War, and in the development of the New South and the Great West. The Name, Massachusetts, comes from a compound word in the language of the Indian aborigines, Massa, meaning "Great"; Wadchooash, " Hills"; and et, "At, or near." The word signifies "Great-Hills Place," or "At the Great Hills." The limited region to which it originally belonged included the meadows of the Neponset River (then inhabited by a tribe of Indians under the chieftainship of Chickatawbut) Blue Hills of Quincy, Milton and Canton, southwest of ible for many leagues up and down the coast. This the Alps or the Pyrenees, exhibits rich tur quoise and sapphire tints, deepening into dappled purple in cloudy seasons, and as suming a formidable sable hue in days of storm. The Bay State is a popular name for the Commonwealth, from the ancient title of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay. The Arms of Massachusetts show a blue shield, and thereon an Indian, hold ing in his right hand a bow, in his left and the neighboring Boston Harbor, vis- range, older than CHESTNUT HILL : BOSTON WATER-WORKS. MOUNT HOLYOKE. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. hand an arrow, point downward, all of gold ; and in the upper corner above his right, arm a silver star with five points. The crest is a wreath of blue and gold, whereon is a right arm bent at the elbow, and clothed and ruffled, the hand grasping a broad-sword, all of gold. The silver seal sent by the Company of Massachusetts Bay to Gov. Endicott, in 1629, resembled the still earlier Plymouth Colony seal, and bore two pine-trees and a leaf-clad armed Indian, with the label, "Come over and help us. " It was a perpetual memorial that the colonists had journeyed here partly to convert the savages. This seal was replaced in 1684 by royalist devices, from England. In 1780 the present State seal was prepared, reviving the Indian, and adding a star, "for one of the United States of America." The Motto was adopted for Massachusetts by the Provincial Congress, sitting in the ancient church at Watertown, behind the American lines, in August, 1775. It had been first written in the Copenhagen-University album, in 1659, by the "celebrated Algernon Sidney, son of Dorothy Percy and the Earl of Leicester, statesman, soldier and exile under Cromwell, and author of Discourses Concerning Governments. As written, it read : Manus haec inimica tyrannis Ense petit placidam sub libertate quielem. The last line, adopted as the motto of Massachusetts, may be translated thus : "With the sword she seeks quiet peace under liberty." The Governors of the Plymouth colony (1620-92) were : John Carver, Wm. Bradford, Ed ward Winslow, Thomas Prence, Josiah Winslow, and Thomas Hinckley. The Governors of Massa chusetts were : John Endicott, 1629; John Win throp, 1630-4; Thomas Dudley, 1634; John Haynes, 1635 ; Henry Vane, 1636; John Winthrop, 1637 ; Thomas Dudley, 1640; Richard Bellingham, 1641 ; John Winthrop, 1642 ; John Endicott, 1644; Thomas Dudley, 1645; John Winthrop, 1646; John Endicott, 1649; Thomas Dudley, 1650; John Endicott, 1651; Richard Bellingham, 1654; John Endicott, 1655; Richard Bellingham, 1665; John Leverett, 1672; Simon Bradstreet, 1679-86; Joseph Dudley, 1686; Sir Edmund Andros, 1686-9; Simon Bradstreet, 1689-92; Sir Wm. Phips, 1692; Wm. Stoughton (acting), 1694; the Earl of Bellomont, 1699; Wm. Stoughton (acting), 1700; Joseph Dudley, 1702; Wm. Tailer (acting), 1715 ; Samuel Shute, 1716; Wm. Dummer (acting), 1722; Wm. Burnet, 1728; Wm. Dummer (acting), 1729; Wm. Tailer (acting), 1730 ; Jonathan Belcher, 1730; Wm. Shirley, 1741; Spencer Phips (acting) 1749; Wm. Shirley, 1753; Thomas Pownal, 1757; Thomas Hutchinson (acting), 1760; Sir Francis Bernard, Bart., 1760; Thomas Hutchinson, 1769-74; Gen. Thomas Gage, 1774; Provincial Congress, 1774; The Council, 1775-80. State Governors: John Han cock, 1780-85; James Bowdoin, 1785-87; John Hancock, 1787-93; Samuel Adams, 1794-97; Increase Sumner, 1797-99; Moses Gill (acting), 1799- 1800; Caleb Strong, 1800-7; James Sullivan, 1807-8; Christopher Gore, 1809-10; Elbridge Gerry, 1810-12; Caleb Strong, 1812-16; John Brooks, 1816-23; Wm. Eustis, 1823-25; Levi Lincoln, 1825-34; John Davis, 1834-36; Edward Everett, 1836-40; Marcus Morton, 1840-41; John Davis, 1841-43; Marcus Morton, PiTnnEin: ruum hcju.m aim. a mi n/eum. 1 843-44 ; George N. Briggs, 1 844-5 1 > George S. Bout- 34^ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CAMBRIDGE : CITY HALL. well, 1851-53; John H. Clifford, 1853-54; Emory Washburn, 1854-55; Henry J. Gardner, 1855-58; Nathaniel P. Banks, 1858-61 ; John A. Andrew, 1861-66; Alex. H. Bullock, 1866-69; William Claflin, 1869-72; Wm. B. Washburn, 1872-74; Thos. Talbot (acting), 1874; Wm. Gas ton, 1875-76; Alexander H. Rice, 1876-79; Thomas Talbot, 1879-80; John D. Long, 1880-83; Benjamin F. Butler, 1883-84; Geo. D. Robinson, 1884-87; Oliver Ames, 1887-89; J. Q. A. Brackett, 1889-91 ; and Wm. E. Russell, 1891-93. Descriptive. — Massachusetts covers an area of 8,040 square miles, forming a parallelogram 160 miles long from east to west, and 50 miles wide from north to south, except on the coast, where it reaches a breadth of 90 miles. The laud still merits its ancient title of "The Place of Hills," for there is but little absolutely level ground. The coast is lined with highlands — Po Hill and the Oldtown Hills, about Newburyport ; Castle Hill, at Ips wich ; the rugged heights of Cape Ann ; the Middlesex Fells and their seaboard foot-hills ; the Blue Hills of Milton ; the Manomet Bluffs, below Plymouth ; and many others. Farther inland, the country becomes mountainous, culminating in Mount Wachusett (2,018 feet) and Mount Watatic (1,847 fee0> 'n Worcester County. The beautiful valley of the Connecticut is fringed with steep trap-rock hills, the most conspicuous of which are Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke (1,120),- near Northampton. Berkshire, the westernmost county, is covered with picturesque highlands, and has . many rare beauties of natural scenery. On its eastern side, from north to south, runs the Hoosac Range (1,200 to 2,500 feet), a continuation of the Green Mountains, pierced by the famous Hoosac Tun nel ; and across the narrow Housatonic Valley rises the higher Taconic Range, with the peaks of Greylock (3,535 feet), Mount Everett and others. This beautiful region of mountains and lakes, and pastoral valleys is frequented in summer by New- York and Boston families, who have country-houses at Lenox, Stockbridge, and Pittsfield. "Somebody has called Berkshire the Piedmont of America. I do not know how just the appellation may be, but I do know that if Piedmont can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a very delightful region." The Merrimac crosses the northeastern corner of Massachusetts for 35 miles, rising in the White Mountains, and entering the sea at venerable Newburyport. It has some com merce, being navigable for small vessels as far up as Haverhill (18 miles); but its chief value is in a series of enormous and fully improved water-powers, at Lowell, Lawrence, and Haver hill. The Connecticut River, rising near the Canadian frontier, and crossing Massachusetts for 50 miles, is also valuable mainly for its water-powers, de veloped by dams at Holyoke, Turner's Falls, and other points. The minor streams, the Charles, Taunton, Nashua, Concord, Black- stone, Deerfield, and Housatonic are useful in the same way, and also afford interest to artists, local poets and rustic fishermen. There are scores of smaller streams, of value for their water- power, most of which is utilized by factories. The largest unbroken wilderness in Massachusetts lies in the Old Colony, near the scene of the first settlements, between Plymouth and Cape Cod ; and so completely has this tract remained in the kindly care of nature, that it now Worcester : post-officeT ~~ harbors thousands of deer, guarded by the State game- WINCHESTER : TOWN HALL. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 347 FALL RIVER : POST-OFFICE. laws. Farther around towards Buzzards Bay are large cedar swamps, amid which gleam several bright lakes and ponds. Along the southeastern coast extend thousands of acres of cranberry bogs, where these pleasant fruits are cultivated more extensively than anywhere else in Amer ica. Other localities on the coast, especially the long Holland-like meadows of Essex, with the blue sea peep ing over their verge, produce great quantities of salt hay. The most prominent natural feature is Cape Cod, a sandy peninsula several miles broad and 65 miles long, pro jecting east, then running north, and then for a short dis tance west, like "a bare and bended right arm," sheltering Cape-Cod Bay, and with Cape Ann (the left arm, on guard) forming Massachusetts Bay. The cape has twelve towns, famous for gallant seamen. The harbors of Chatham, Hyannis, Cotuit, and Wood's HoU are on the outside, those of Barnstable, Wellfleet, and Provincetown on the inside. Provincetown, near the great revolving light on Race Point, the tip end of Cape Cod, is a quaint old port and town of 4,642 inhabitants, 120 miles from Boston by rail, and 55 miles by water. Martha's Vineyard is an island of 120 square miles (21 by six miles) off the southern point of the State (at Wood's HoU), with 4, 369 inhabitants, forming six townships, and (with the adjacent town of Gosnold,, covering 18 islands), making up the county of Dukes. At one end of the island rise the sandy hills of Chappaquiddick, and at the other end * ', the surf pounds and tears against the tremendous cliffs of Gay Head, with their folded and vividly colored strata of white and ', -. yellow, red and green, brown and black. Gay-Head town and the township of Mashpee, on the south side of Cape Cod, are re served for a few hundred Indians, the descendants of the Cape- Cod and island tribes, with an admixture of Portuguese and African blood. The coast Indians were always loyal to the colonists, and fought bravely alongside their white neighbors against hostile natives, and afterwards against the redcoats of England. Their descendants live a strange, unsettled life and excel mainly in the whale- fisheries. In the old days, Edgartown, the capital of the Vineyard, was celebrated for its successful whaling fleets and daring seamen, but these have passed away, and for 40 years the island has been falling off in population. It enjoys considerable fame as a summer-resort, together with Nantucket, another lonely island, farther out to sea, and reached by daily steamers from Wood's Holl and Martha's Vineyard. Nantucket covers 60 square miles, and has 3,265 inhabitants, being fewer than at the time of the first Provincial census, in 1 765, and only a third of the popula tion in the palmy days of 1 840, when Nantucket ships were seen in all ports. The Geology of the Bay State is concerned mainly with metamorphic rock, and the glacial drift of Cape Cod and Ply mouth County, in sands, gravel, and bowlders ; the conglom erates and slates around Boston ; the new red sandstone of the triassic period, in the Connecticut Valley, imprinted with the huge footprints of pre-historic animals ; and the meta morphosed rocks of the Berkshire Hills. There are large granite quarries on Cape Ann and in the Blue Hills, near Boston. At Longmeadow, in the Connecticut Valley, great ,, S^EfHHBSBfiP51 quantities of red sandstone are quarried. The white-marble ,j£SM!^^pEBj,^6»i^.^g^gU^-. quarries of Lee have been worked for many years, and boston 1 chamber of commerce. FALL RIVER : CITY HALL. 348 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GLOUCESTER CAPE-ANN GRANITE CO. furnished material for the United-States Capitol at Washington. Among other mineral products are the silver-bearing lead of Newburyport, whose mines are no longer worked ; the emery of the west ern counties ; and the hematite iron ores of Berk shire. The sand used for making fine cut-glass ware in Pennsylvania comes from Cheshire, in Berkshire County. A very hard and graphitic coal is found in the southeastern counties, but it cannot be operated profitably. The granite-producing industry is dominated by the Cape- Ann Granite Company, founded in 1869, by Col. Jonas H. French, still its president. Its office is in Boston ; and the works are at Gloucester, near its great quarries at Bay View, where the company owns 300 acres, and keeps from 400 to 700 men at work. These quarries were opened in 1849, and layidlefrom 1865 to 1869, when they were purchased by the present company. The granite is carried on a steam railway over a mile to the wharves, where it is shipped for distant ports. Many millions of paving blocks have been sent hence to every great American city, and hundreds of monuments, besides vast numbers of engine-beds for the Michigan copper-mines, and gun-platforms for forts. Among the large structures built from this quarry are the Boston and Baltimore Post-offices, the new Suffolk-County Court House at Boston, the Danvers Asylum, the East-River Bridge piers, the Charles-River-Aqueduct Bridge, the won derful ' ' hanging-stairways " in the Philadelphia Public Building, and many notable Government edifices. The Climate ranges from 200 below zero to 100° above (Fahrenheit), with frequent sharp transitions, long winters, arduous springs, lovely summers and pleasant autumns. The finest season in the year is the Indian summer, coming after the late September frosts, when for two or three weeks gentle southwest winds prevail, with a wonderfully transparent atmosphere, skies of the purest azure, and brilliant cloud-effects. The winter comes down upon the land in December, and lasts into March, with abundant snow and ice, especially in the interior counties. The mean average temperature is 480, at Boston, and the annual rainfall is 42 inches. The weather of eastern Massachusetts is foretold with surprising accuracy by the scientific observers who occupy the observatory on Blue Hill, endowed by the generosity of the Rotch family, of Milton. Agriculture employs 80,000 persons, on 45,000 farms, of which 41,000 are owned by their occupants. The domestic animals, valued at $17,000,000, include 272,000 head of cattle, 66,000 horses, 75,000 sheep and lambs, 135,000 swine, 15,000 dogs, 7,500 swarms of bees, and 1,820,000 domestic fowls. The valuation of the farms is $216,000,000, being $111,000,000 for the land (939,000 cultivated acres, at $60,000,000; 1,570,000 uncultivated, at $25,- 000,000; 1,390,000 woodland, at $26,000,000); $74,000,000 for buildings (46,100 dwellings, at $I,OIO each; and 50,275 barns, at $409); $17,- 000,000 for animals ; $7,000,000 for machinery ; and $7,000,000 for fruit-trees and vines. The annual product of the farms is $48,000,000, includ ing $13,000,000 in dairy articles; $11,000,000 in hay, straw, and fodder ; and $5,000,000 in vegeta bles. Among the articles are 257,000 pounds of -Gloucester ¦ 1 -.;-.,,>¦ n, Q,„»,ai,i GLOUCESTER '. CAPE-ANN GRANITE CO. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 349 wool, 9,700,000 pounds of butter, 360,000 pounds of cheese, 73,000,000 gallons of milk, 50,000 gallons of maple syrup, 800,000 pounds of maple-sugar, 5,000,000 gallons of cider, 7,000,000 dozen eggs, 4,200,000 pounds of tobacco, 4,500,000 bushels of apples, and strawberries. The lowlands of Cape 4,000,000 quarts of Cod and the adjoining Rochester, produce This crop has trebled are prepared every The soil is not fer- ties, but agriculture has by the State and by, local socie- returns, as a reward for very hard ties, especially, the drain of emi- the cities have 59 far depopulated tensive areas of abandoned farm- claimed by the forests. Mean- raise enough provisions for her value of farm-products rose from $47,000,000 in 1885, the gain being dens and dairies. This is the least Union, only 9 per cent, of its workers The first State Commissioner of Agri towns, Plymouth, Middleboro, Carver and yearly 300,000 bushels of cranberries. since 1883, and new bogs season.tile, except in a few locali- long been carefully fostered ties, and produces valuable labor. In the western coun- gration and the drift toward -the hill-towns that ex- lands are being re- while, the State fails to own consumption. The 2,000,000 in 1865 to chiefly in market-gar- agricultural State in the being on the farms. culture was appointed culture began its work SPRINGFIELD '. UNITED-STATES ARMORY. in 1836, and the State Board of Agri- in 1852. It has 44 members, and has published over 400, 000 copies of its 38 yearly reports. The Massachusetts Agricultural College, at Amherst, called the best in America, has an experimental farm of 383 acres, on a rich plain, girt around with mountains. The Bussey In stitution, near Boston, is a school of agriculture and horticulture attached to Harvard University, with a handsome Victoria Gothic building, and rich endowments. Connected therewith is the Arnold Arboretum, containing all manner of trees and shrubs that can live outdoors here, and endowed with $100,000. 137 acres of the 360 belonging to the institu tion are included in the Arboretum ; and also form part of the Boston park system. Parks and Pleasure-Grounds have been provided for the people in 'great variety. The oldest of these is the famous Boston Common, with 48 acres of velvety lawns and venerable trees, set apart for public uses in 1634. Here witches, Quakers, and murderers were executed, and scores of hostile Indians bravely suffered the death-penalty. At a later period, its hills were covered with the camps and forts of the British garrison ; and in 1812 the American troops assembled for the defence of the town encamped here. In 1861-5 scores of thousands of volunteers were reviewed on the parade ground, before their depar- . ture Southward. Adjoining the Common, on the west, is the Public Garden, F-^ with its statuary, and glorious displays of tulips, pansies, rhododendrons, and other flowers. Franklin Park covers 500 acres of picturesque hill-country southwest of Boston, and is visited every pleasant summer-day by scores of thousands of people. The Marine Park, at South Boston, has a long promenade-pier projecting into the harbor, near Fort Independence. The Free Public Forest at Lynn covers 1,400 acres of Trosach- like hills and lakes, around the famous Dungeon . Rock, and with pleasant boulevards and parkways. The parks at Springfield, Worcester, New Bedford, Cambridge, and other cities, the Mall at Newburyport, and the commons of the rural villages, afford pleasant recreation-grounds. Five miles north of Boston are the picturesque Middlesex Fells, a region of rocky hills and gorges, covering six square miles, BOSTON : ARMORY FIRST CORPS OF CADETS. 35° REFORMATORY PRISON FOR WOMEN. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. with ponds and cascades, and peaks over looking the sea, on one side, and on the other, Monadnock and Wachusett and many far-away blue mountains. The sub urbs of Boston are famed for their beauty. It is an undulating region, finely wooded, and brightened here and there by crystal ponds and arms of the sea. Everywhere there are pleasant country-seats, and here and there the ancient villages nestle under im memorial elms, with venerable mansions of the Georgian era, and historic churches of the Puritan days. Admirable roads traverse these environs ; and the railways, diverging from Boston like spokes from a hub, afford facilities for an immense suburban population. The State Government is composed of a governor, lieutenant-governor, secretary, treasurer and receiver-general, auditor, eight councillors, and a legislature of 40 senators and 240 representatives. The Legislature is still frequently called "The Great and General Court. " The State House, which Dr. Holmes calls "the hub of the solar system," stands on the crest of Beacon Hill, fronting Boston Common, and is a dignified structure, dating from 1795, with interesting statues of Daniel Webster, Horace Mann, John A. Andrew, and Washing ton, the battle-flags of 1861-65, and the State library. For over a century a large wooden cod fish has been suspended in the Hall of Representatives, typifying an industry of much value to Massachusetts, and "a greater source of wealth than all the mines of California." The Sen ate chamber contains valuable portraits of State dignitaries, and also battle-relics from Lex ington, Bunker Hill and Ben nington. The lofty dome is covered with pure gold leaf, and shines afar over scores of leagues of sea and land. An extension larger than the original build ing, and harmonious in architec ture, was added to the State House in 18S8-92. For two centuries Massachu setts had the most complete democratic government ever seen, each town forming a semi- independent republic, whose qualified voters (male church-members, until the restoration of the Stuarts, and after that the entire adult male population) assembled in town-meeting, levied local taxes, appropriated moneys, elected officers, and chose representatives. The Massachusetts Volunteer Militia includes 380 officers and 4,750 enlisted men, organ ized in two brigades, composed of 6 regiments (67 companies) of infantry, 2 battalions (6 companies) of cadets, 2 battalions of cavalry, and 2 batteries of field artillery (12 guns and 16 Gatlings). The First Infantry is from Boston ; the Second from western Massachusetts ; the Fifth and Sixth from Middlesex County and Boston; the Eighth from Essex County; and the Ninth from Boston. The Naval Battalion, of four companies, includes many yachtsmen, and is in a highly efficient condition. Each brigade encamps for a week every year, on the fortified State camp-grounds at Framingham ; and the Cadets encamp at Hingham and Magnolia, on the coast. This entire body of troops is kept in a state of high discipline and efficiency. It costs the State nearly $200,000 a year. The Ancient 1 to; ftr.Kii.i rnooi r and Honorable Artillery Company, the oldest BOSTON : CITY HOSPITAL. ilwiiiSissiflp^' .F*1 .,,!.¦-- .xSMV-" ?— ¦ the state of Massachusetts. 35 i military organization in America, has its headquarters in Faneuil Hall, Boston, and is largely composed of officers of other commands. It was organized in 1638, and for more than a century membershipbeen built at the public cost. was the chief school of military art for New England. The numbers over 600. Expensive and elaborate armories have Boston and Worcester for the accommodation of the militia, at Charities and Corrections. — The State Board of Lunacy and Charity has nine mem bers, with Superintendents of Out-Door Poor and In-Door, Poor, an Inspector of Institu tions, and other officials. Upwards of 16,000 persons are in receipt of public charity. The establishments for the relief of the poor are valued at $9,000,000, one third of which per tains to city and town almshouses, and the rest to eleven State institutions. There are 6, 500 insane persons, 4,000 of whom are cared for in the State Lunatic Hospitals, at Worcester, Danvers, Taunton, Northampton and Westborough, and at other State institutions and public hospitals. In the last decade the population of Massachusetts gained 26 per cent., but its insane population gained 50 per cent. The palace asylums at Danvers and Worces ter are among the finest buildings in America. They represent an already obsolete system to be replaced by cottage hospitals. The Danvers Asylum includes ten enormous Eliza BOSTON : THE POST-OFFICE. bethan struc- tops of Essex, SUFFOLK-COUNTY COURT-HOUSE. tures, built at a cost of $1,600,000, crowning one of the finest hill- overlooking vast areas, from the ocean to Monadnock and Wachu- sett, and surrounded with exquisite Italian gar dens. There are 150 insane persons boarded out in families, in a new experiment, based on the Scottish system. A new asylum for the chronic insane is being built at Medfield. Not more than one eighth of the State's patients have a reasonable hope of recov ery. The only Epileptic Hospital in America is at Baldwinsville. It was founded in 1882, by private munificence ; but the State appropriated $55,000 to it in 1889, for new buildings, and received the right to send patients. Children rendered by disease profane, selfish and imbecile are here made quiet, thoughtful and conscientious. The State Primary School, at Monson ; the Lyman (Reform) School for Boys, at West borough ; the State Industrial School for Girls, at Lancaster ; and various private charitable institutions at West Newton, Salem, Thompson's . Island, and elsewhere, provide for and educate 1,400 poor, friendless, and ignorant "Children of the State," and teach them ways to earn an honest and useful living. The cost exceeds $250,000 a year. The State Farm at Bridgewater is a model institution, with hospital, prison, insane asylum and other adjuncts. It has an average of 600 inmates. The State Almshouse at Tewksbury takes care of r,ooo persons. In the charitable and reformatory institutions 70 per cent, of the people are of foreign birth, and 90 per cent, of the children in the reformatories are of foreign parentage. The local authorities say that these startling figures are based on the well-known fact that the mass of immigrants are of the class but one de gree above actual want. The Superin tendent of In-door Poor sends out of B0ST0N HARB0R . F0RT ,NDEPENdence. AilS^ilirW 352 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. GLOUCESTER HARBOR. the State each year 600 persons, belonging elsewhere, and becoming charges on the charity of Massachusetts. The State Prison at Charlestown (Boston) contains above 600 chronic criminals. The Reformatory for men, at Concord (750 inmates), and the Reformatory Prison for Women, at Sherborn (250 inmates), are doing a noble" work in reclaiming immature and un- hardened Offenders. There are also 21 county and many municipal prisons and correctional institutions, capable of holding 4, 500 prisoners. Contract labor in the prisons was abolished in 1887, and all work done by convicts is for the benefit of the State. While the population of Massachusetts has increased about 82 per cent, during 30 years, its prison population has increased but 75 per cent., notwith standing in recent years a more effective enforcement of law has relatively increased the number of sentences. The records show a marked decrease of crimes against person and property, and an increase in crimes directly connected with intemperance. Health and Mortality. — The State Board of Health (founded in 1842) has seven members. There are about 24,000 deaths in Massachusetts yearly, one fourth of which are from consumption and acute lung diseases. One third of the deaths are of children under five. July and August are the most fatal months. The changes in temperature are apt to be sudden and severe, and the east winds of the coast are as danger ous in winter as they are agreeable in summer. United-States Institutions. — The chief Na tional building in Massachusetts is the Post-Office at Boston, a large granite structure, containing the United-States Sub-Treasury and the court-rooms. It cost $6,000,000, and is adorned with groups of col ossal statuary. The Custom House at Boston is a massive and imposing structure, built in 1837-49, at a cost of $1,100,000, with walls, roof, and dome of stone. It is in the form of a Greek cross, surrounded by 32 immense fluted columns. The customs build ings at Salem, Newburyport and other coast cities are also of stone. The United-States Armory at Springfield occupies a park of 72 acres, on Armory Hill, and has a great quad rangle of buildings. During the years, 1861-65, the works ran night and day, with 3,000 operatives, making 800,000 stand of arms, at a cost of $12,000,000. In the adjacent arsenal 500,000 stand of arms can be stored, and vast quantities are always kept in readiness. The United-States Arsenal at Watertown, near Boston, was founded in 1811, and became a gar- MANCHEoTER-BY-THE-SEA : COOLIDGE MEMORIAL LIBRARY AND GRAND-ARMY HALL. risoned post in made here, and plant here for machinery has CAMBRIDGE : CITY LIBRARY. 1816. Most of the ordnance stores used in the Mexican War were also vast quantities for the Secession War. There is an extensive making cannon and gun carriages, but since 1888 much of the been removed to other arsenals. The grounds cover 100 acres, and besides the factories, include barracks and officers' quarters. The Navy Yard at Charlestown (Boston) covers over 100 acres, with its work-shops, barracks, store-houses, ship- houses, and rope-walk. The great hammered- granite dry-dock cost $700,000. The Frolic, Inde pendence, Merrimac, Cumberland, Huron, Talla poosa, Vermont, Boxer, Hartford, Shawnee, and many other famous battle-ships were built here ; THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 353 and the Constitution and Argus came from neighboring yards. The Navy Yard dates from 1798 ; and when need arises it employs 2,000 men. There is a garrison of marines, a salut ing battery, and a receiving ship (the Wabash) in the stream. The Fortifications of the coast include the crumbling and long-abandoned defences of Newburyport, Salem, Marblehead, Plymouth and New Bedford. The port of Boston (Arl|3FVD«e.: Pei^oooY CAMBRIDGE AND BOSTON I HARVARD UNIVERSITY. is protected by a group of fine old fortresses, carrying 600 guns, and built on islands. Fort Independence, on the site of the Castle of colonial days, is the oldest virgin fortress in the world, having been first armed as a defence in 1634. Across the harbor rise the ponderous earthworks and lofty granite citadel of Fort Winthrop. Farther out, toward the sea, is Fort Warren, sometime famous as a prison for Confederate officers. 354 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. AMHERST: AMHERST COLLEGE. The Massachusetts coast is dotted with light houses, fog-horns, and life-saving stations, from the Plum-Island lights at Newburyport around the two capes, and on the southern islands. Conspicuous among these are the Sankoty-Head light, at Nan tucket ; the Highland Light, on the outer side of Cape Cod ; the Minot's-Ledge Light, rising from the sea, off Boston Harbor ; and the lofty twin towers of the Thatcher's-Island Lights, on Cape Ann. Boston Light dates from 1715, and was destroyed by the British fleet, in 1775. The chief station of the United-States Commission of Fish and Fisheries is at Wood's HoU, on the south coast, where there are extensive biological laboratories, fish-hatcheries and aquaria ; and many eminent scientific men spend long seasons here, studying the habits of cod and mackerel, lobsters and oysters, and other dwellers in the sea. Educational. — The public-school system is based on the ordinance of 1647: "Now, that learning may not be buried in the graves of our fathers, every township in this jurisdic tion, after the Lord hath increased them to 50 householders, shall then forthwith appoint one within their town to teach all such children as shall resort to him, to write and read." These village-schools and the grammar-schools ordained for towns of 100 families were sup ported by taxation. And so, with frequent improvements, the public-school system has ad vanced mightily. Of late years, women have had (and used) the right to serve on and vote • for school committees. The boys of many high-schools are subjected to military drill, under arms ; and the Boston School Regiment, 1,200 strong, marching like regulars, is re viewed every year on Boston Common, by the Governor ; and the Second School Regiment, 800 strong, has yearly field-days in Essex or Middlesex. Within a recent period the Catholic Church has founded many parochial schools for her children. A large proportion of the 122,000 illiterates of above ten years are Irish domestics. One third of the foreigners are illiterate, and so are one fourteenth of the natives. The State Board of Education is charged to see that each child has a good common- school education, with training also in morals and manners. There are five normal schools, at Bridgewater (founded in 1840), Framingham (founded in 1839), Salem (1854), Westfield (1839), and Worcester (1874), and a normal art-school at Boston (1873), the total number of pupils being 1,350. The State contains 6,918 public schools, with 10,000 teachers, and a total attendance of 358,000 pupils. Since 1884 the cities and towns are obliged bylaw to provide all text-books and other school- supplies free of charge. The State also sup ports schools for the blind, for deaf-mutes, for the feeble-minded, and for juvenile of fenders and truants, containing i,5oofchil- dren. There are 241 high-schools, with 814 teachers, and 25,000 pupils ; and 200 even ing schools, with 100 teachers and 23,000 pupils (mostly adults). The annual expenditure for the public schools is in excess of $7,000,000. There are also 511 academies and private schools, with 60,000 pupils. Harvard University is one of the foremost in stitutions of learning in the world, and has been for two and a half centuries a growing and bene- ficient power in American life. Its foundation was ordered by the Massachusetts legislature in WILLIAM8T0WN I WILLIAMS COLLEGE. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 355 BOSTON : MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY. 1636; and the next year Newtowne, across the Charles River from Boston, was chosen as its seat. In 1638 John Harvard, a young English pastor, died at Charles town and bequeathed his library and £%oo in money to the inchoate college, to which his name was then given, the name of Newtowne also being changed to Cam— bridge, in honor of the famous English university where many of the founders of New England had received their education. The little Puritan seminary of those ancient days has developed finally into the most illustrious university in America, with a roll of 14,000 graduates, including Otis and the Adamses, Hancock and Warren, Channing and Everett, Sparks and Palfrey, dishing and Bancroft, Emerson and Holmes, Motley and Lowell, Sumner and Dana, Thoreau, Clarke and Hale, and many other eminent men. The university was established outside of the activities of the metropolis, but could be placed at no more distant point by reason of the hostile Indians. In 1775 the students, library and apparatus were sent away, and the buildings long remained barracks for the Continental troops, besieging the British army in Boston. Harvard has a number of dormitories and other buildings, some of them very old, like Massachusetts, Harvard, Hollis, Stoughton and University Halls, having a puritanical simplicity ; and it has also many others with all the bravery of 19th-century architecture. The lovely quadrangle encloses green lawns and ancient trees, and rests in a perpetual air of philo sophic calm. Gore Hall and its branches contain 377,000 volumes, and many rare old books and relics ; and the Museum of Comparative Zoology, the Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnology, and other appropriate halls contain unrivalled collections. Me morial Hall was finished in 1874, at a cost of $450,000, with a classic theatre; a grand memorial transept, bearing on arcaded marble tablets the names of 136 Harvard men who died in the war for the Union ; and a great hall, generally utilized by 700 students as a din ing-room. This hall has an open timber roof, rich stained windows of great size, and scores of portraits and busts of benefactors of the university ; and a lofty tower, visible for many leagues. The Observatory, the Botanic Gardens, the Hemenway Gymnasium, the Divinity Hall, Austin Hall (the Law School), the Boylston Chemical Laboratory, and the Jefferson Physical Laboratory (founded mainly by Thomas Jefferson Coolidge), are well- known departments near the quadrangle. The famous Harvard Medical School, the Dental School, and the Veterinary School are in Boston ; and the Bussey Institution, a school of agriculture, and the Arnold Arboretum are in West Roxbury. The university has 2, 300 students, in all its departments; and its properties exceed $10,000,000 in value. The Harvard Annex, founded in 1879, for the collegiate education of women, has no legal connec tion with the university, but its 40 professors are mainly those pertaining to the college. It has 130 students. The graduates receive certificates that they "have pursued a course of study equivalent in amount and quality to that for which the degree of Bachelor of Arts is conferred in Harvard College." ANDOVER : THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. CAMBRIDGE : PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL, MEDFORD TUFTS-COLLEGE CHAPEL. 356 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Boston University was founded in 1869, and has 900 students in its colleges of liberal arts, music, and agriculture, and schools of law, theology (Methodist), medicine (homoeo pathic) and all sciences. Unlike most American colleges, Boston University has no dormi- .&, tories, and its buildings are used only for lectures, recitations and administra tion. Clark University was founded at Worcester, in 1888, for higher specialized study by college and university graduates, and has won a considerable success. Amherst College occupies a beautiful situa tion on a hill south of Amherst, in the romantic hill- country near the Connecticut Valley. It was founded in 1821, and is a Congregationalist institution. There are 27 instructors and 360 students, 140 of whom are from other States, with an art gallery, a library of 52,000 volumes, memorial chapel, gymnasium, observatory, and rare museums of Indian relics, Nineveh antiquities, minerals, and tracks in stone. Amherst has the finest American collection (with one exception) of casts from famous statuary. Connected with her profes sorship of physical education (the first in America) is a park of 26 acres, with ball and tennis grounds and walking tracks. Williams College, at Williamstown, amid the noble mountains of Berkshire, commemo rates Col. Ephraim Williams, of the Eighth Massachusetts, who was killed in battle at Lake George, in 1755, after bequeathing his estate for a college, which was chartered in 1793. It has 20 instructors and 320 students, with interesting build- ji ings. This was the birth-place of Christian foreign missions in America. Tufts \ College, in Medford, covers a far-viewing hill with its group of buildings, rich- Bl ly endowed, and with classical, philosophical, engineering, and divinity courses. It Ua , was opened in 1854, and is. Universalist in tone. There are 18 instructors and 150 students. The Massa- „ — chusetts Institute of Tech nology, in Boston, incor porated in 1 86 1, occupies several fine buildings on the Back Bay, with museums, models, and gymnasium. It has 70 instructors and 900 students (including 33 wo men and 1 7 foreigners), and teaches engineering, architecture, chemistry, physics, natural history and mechanic arts, in a four-years' course. Massachusetts owns 20 free scholarships, for aid rendered from public funds. There is no more famous scientific school in America, and it draws its students from 35 States. The Massachusetts Agricultural College, at Amherst, is a State institution, founded in 1863, with 150 students in scientific farming, horticulture, forestry, and similar branches. There are 80 free State scholarships and 13 free Congressional scholarships. Wellesley College, 15 miles from Boston, on Lake Waban, in Wellesley, has stately buildings in a park of 300 acres. It was founded in 1870, by Henry F. Durant, and opened in 1875 ; and has 60 officers and 690 students (young women averaging 20 years) from all over the Union. The museums and art-gallery are of great value ; and the library contains 25,000 volumes. The prop- wellesley: wellesley College. erty of Wellesley is worth $^;ooo;ooo.-"Smith BOSTON : ENGLISH HIGH AND LATIN SCHOOL. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 357 College was founded in 187 1, by Miss Sophia Smith, at Northampton, and has a dozen build ings and 500 students. The 12-foot equatorial telescope, the four-inch meridian circle, and the 21-foot steel dome were designed and built by Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio). Across the valley, at South Hadley, is the famous old Mount-Holyoke Seminary and College, founded welleslev-college : school of art. in 1836, by Mary Lyon, and the school of many noble women. It commands exquisite views of the Northampton meadows and the gorge between Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom. Andover Theological Institution, opened in 1808, has prepared 3,000 men for the Con gregational ministry, and has nine professors and 50 students, 37 of whom are from outside of Massachusetts, with several from Japan, Turkey and India. Its recent liberal tendencies are well-known. On its elm-shaded hill stand the old dormitories ; the stone Brechin Hall, with the library of 50,000 volumes ; the handsome modern chapel ; the house in which Gates Ajar was written ; and the site of the old stone house where Uncle Tom's Cabin was written. Newton Theological Institution is a Baptist institution, founded in 1825, and nobly placed on a high hill over Newton Centre, a pleasant village eight miles from Boston, and now for many years the home of the Rev. Dr. S. F. Smith, author of the National song, My Country, 'tis of Thee. The Episcopal Theological School is near Harvard University, at Cambridge, and includes a beautiful quadrangle of stone buildings, with a library and an unusually attractive church. The school dates from 1867, and has five professors. The chief Catholic schools are Boston College, founded by the Jesuits in 1863, and now having 16 instructors and 200 students, and the College of the Holy Cross, on a pleasant hill-top near Worcester. The diocesan seminary for the Catholic clergy occupies a great stone building in Brighton. The New-Church (Swedenborgian) Theological School is at Cambridge. The Divinity School at Harvard University is Unitarian in tendency. The law-schools are connected with Harvard (founded in 181 7), and Boston University (1869). The Medical Schools of Harvard and of Boston University, the Harvard and Boston Dental Colleges, the College of Pharmacy, and the Harvard School of Veterinary Medicine, are at Boston. The Perkins Institution and Massachusetts School for the Blind, at South Boston, was organized in 1832, by Dr. S. G. Howe. It has been studied as a model for similar institutions here and in Europe. There is a large library of raised-letter books. The State grants $36,000 s year to the school, which has 225 students. The pupils earn money by piano-tuning and upholstery. The celebrated evangelist, Dwight L. Moody, was a native of Massachusetts ; and at and near beautiful old Northfield, in the Connecticut Valley, he has founded a group of Christian schools, with 500 pupils, from every State, and Japan and Armenia. Here also is a training-school for women, in Bible-study, dress-making, and house-keeping. , The Boston English-High and Latin-School, the largest building in the world used as a free public school, was built in 1877-80, at a cost of $750,000, and is a fire-proof structure, in Renaissance architecture, with 48 school-rooms, besides museums, libraries, gymnasiums, lecture-halls, and the great drill-hall, for military evolutions and instruction. The Girls' High School is a noble building, with 800 pupils. The B. M. C. Durfee High School is a magnificent memorial building on the heights over the city of Fall River. The high schools at Worcester, Springfield and other cities have attractive buildings and collections. Among the preparatory schools are Phillips Academy, at Andover, endowed in 177S, and widely renowned; Dummer Academy, in Newbury, founded and endowed by Gov. Dum mer, in 1756; Adams Academy, at Quincy; the Highland Military Academy, near Worces ter ; Thayer Academy, at Braintree ; Dean Academy, at Franklin ; Greylock Institute, at South Williamstown ; St. -Mark's School, at Southborough ; the richly endowed Williston Seminary, at Easthampton ; Sanderson Academy, at Ashfield ; Lasell Seminary, at Auburn- dale ; Bradford Academy, for girls ; and Abbott Female Seminary, at Andover. 358 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BOSTON : CHAUNCY-HALL SCHOOL. Chauncy-Hall School, of Boston, one of the best preparatory schools in the world, car ries boys and girls from the kindergarten and primary departments to the threshold of college or business life. It was founded in 1828; and many of its pupils, like Parkman, Ellis, Tuckerman, and Weiss, have become famous. Its distinguishing char acteristics are care for health and attention to individ uals. Preparation for the Massachusetts Institute of Technology is a specialty. The military drill gives the lads a good setting-up, and the girls have calis thenics. The school-building, architecturally attrac tive and provided with all modern conveniences and safe-guards, fronts on Copley Square, close to the Art Museum, Trinity Church, the new Old South Church, and the new Public Library, in the finest residence-quarter of the city. Chauncy Hall usually has about 300 students. The Wesleyan Academy, one of the most notable of New-England institutions, was founded in 1818 ; and seven years later it moved to the pleasant old Massachusetts village of Wilbraham, where it has since remained. There are six academic buildings, on a domain of 200 acres, nestling under the hills eastward of the fair Connecticut Valley. Within these walls 16,000 students have been taught ; and there are now 250, a. number of them from foreign lands, and the others from all parts of the Union. The academy avails itself of the excellent and sensible methods suggested by the experience of two thirds of a century, in preparing its pupils for college, or for business life. Among the graduates of this noble old school have been Gov. Pitkin, of Colorado ; Gov. Hovey, of Indiana ; ex- President Beach, of Wesleyan University; President Andrews, of Brown University, and many eminent bishops and ministers, and other professional men. The faculty includes 14 teachers, with George M. Steele, D. D. , LL. D., as President. Among the most celebrated of New-England academies is Allen's West -Newton Eng lish and Classical School, nine miles west of Boston. It occupies a building of historic in terest, wherein, in 1 844, was conducted the first normal school in America, and the first for young women in the world. Nathaniel T. Allen became connected with it in 1848, and six years later, after the Normal School had been removed to Framingham, he opened here a private family and day school for boys and girls. This institution has prospered increas ingly from that day to the present time, when it has a hundred students, and a spacious farm and industrial annex in the neighboring town of Medfield. Many famous clergymen and lawyers, professors and scientists, and a much greater number of men and women in busi ness and other careers, have passed their early years conning lessons in this venerable academy, under the Allen Brothers, who still conduct the school. It has been one of their aims to study the characters and ances tries of their pupils, so to repress bad heredities and develop good ones. Among the thousands of young peo ple who have felt the uplift of this school have been many Spanish-Americans • and the roster usually shows youths from a score of States and several foreign coun tries, finding in this pleasant Massachusetts village a noble institution for the development of mind and spirit. m^^mm^^ WILBRAHAM : WESLEYAN ACADEMY. WEST NEWTON i ALLEN'S ENGLISH AND CLASSICAL SCHOOL THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 359 BOSTON I THE YACHT "VOLUNTEER,1 THE FA8TEST IN THE WORLD. Amusements are becoming more and more a feature of life in the Puritan State. The favorite athletic sport is base-ball, for whose play nearly every village has its club, while at the games played in Boston 10,000 people often gather. Cricket and lacrosse are also very well known ; and tennis and croquet. Bicycling finds here its most enthusiastic and successful devotees. Yachting has been a favorite amusement for generations among this brave maritime people. The yachts built and owned on the coast of the Bay State are the fastest in the world. The America, which won the famous Queen's Cup, at Cowes, still sails in these waters ; and the Mayflower, Puritan and Volunteer, the three great sloops which for successive years have easily outsailed the swiftest British yachts, were planned by Ed ward Burgess, a local naval architect. In theatricals, nearly every town has its hall, and the cities their opera-houses, visited by travel ling companies of dramatists. The earliest Massachusetts theatre opened in 1794, in Boston. The Boston Theatre is one of the largest in the world and has seats for 3, 100 persons. It was built in 1854, and has been the scene of the tri umphs of Rachel, Ristori, Bern hardt, Janaus- chek, Parepa- Rosa, Patti, Lucca, Nilsson, Cary, Kellogg, Mary Anderson, Char lotte Cushman, the Booths, Barrett, Fechter, Forrest, Brougham, Jefferson, Boucicault, Wallack, Salvini, Irving, and many other illustrious stars. Here also have been won the greatest successes of the spectacular plays, Michael Strogoff, The Exiles, Djalma and The Soudan. The exterior is simple and inconspicuous, but the magnifi cent auditorium, luxurious parlors and lobbies, and grand stairway are distinguished for their fitness and beauty. The immense stage has every appliance which can aid in giving splendor, effect, and realism to its scenes. Eugene Tomp kins is the proprietor and manager of this great theatre, which Boucicault said was the finest in the world. Many new play-houses have been built, but none to excel this one. Of late years the feature of club-life has developed greatly, and all sorts of interests are represented, from those served by the Greek-letter societies and literary clubs, the Congrega tional Club, the Unitarian Club, and others, to the athletic and sportsmen's and yacht clubs. The most exclusive organization of this kind is the famous Somerset Club, with 600 mem bers, occupying a fine and richly furnished old mansion of white granite, with double swell front, richly draped with ivy, and facing on Boston Com mon. It dates from 1852. Not far distant is the house of the Union Club, frequented in past days by Everett, Andrew, Sumner, Dana, Gray, Hoar, Rice and others. The Algonquin Club was organized in 1885, and has a magnificent house on Commonwealth Avenue, finished in 1888, at a cost of $300,000. This is said to be the finest club-house in America. The Boston Athletic Associa- boston : boston athletic association, tion includes 1,800 gentlemen who are interested in BOSTON I THE BOSTON THEATRE. 36° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BOSTON ; SOMERSET CLUB. riding, rowing, yachting, tennis, fencing, bowling, and other manly sports. They have a magnificent club-house, built in 1888, at a cost of $300,000, with all the needful accessories, Turkish and plunge-baths, tennis- courts, and provisions for other athletic exercises. Art has for over a century occupied an interesting position in Mas sachusetts. The extensive affiliations of its people with Europe, and the foreign travels of many gentlemen like Sumner, Ticknor, Motley, Hill- ard, and Norton, gave a strong impetus to the study and love of art among the educated people. Smibert and Copley painted many portraits in eastern Massachusetts, before the Revolution. Stuart at a later date portrayed the wine-tinted visages of the gentry ; and then came Chester Harding, and the historical and ideal painter, Washington AUston. In later years, Wm. M. Hunt, George Fuller, George L. Brown, F. P. Vinton, and others flourished and won great fame. The Boston Athenaeum opened its first public exhibition in 1826.. In 1850 the Lowell-Institute school of drawing began. The chief sculptors have been Rimmer, Bartlett, Milmore, French, and Anne Whitney ; although Greenough, Ball, and Harriet Hosmer were also natives of the State, working in Italy. In architecture, the foremost of American masters, H. H. Richardson, was a resident, and has left many of his finest works in Mas sachusetts, where also his disciples remain and labor. The Normal Art School is a power ful factor in aesthetic culture, and occupies a noble Byzantine building, in Boston. It was established in 1873, by the State, to prepare instructors for industrial drawing in the public schools, and for oil and water-color paintings and modelling in clay. Tuition is free to Massachusetts teachers, and non-residents are taught for $50 a term. The Boston Art Club was organized in 1854, by a score of professional artists, and has grown to a membership of 800 (largely of business men), having a beautiful Roman esque club-house, with large picture-galleries, parlors, library and other sumptuous rooms. The Boston Museum of Fine Arts occupies a spacious range of Italian-Gothic buildings, on Copley Square, and contains many hundreds of valuable paintings by Regnault, Corot, Couture, Millet, Troyon, Greuze, Copley, Allston, Stuart, Constable, Turner, Reynolds, Holbein, Cranach, Van de Velde, and other famous masters. It has also great and rare collections of statuary, tapestry, pottery, coins, and mediaeval furniture and armor. The museum was founded in 1870, and the present building was occupied in 1876. It is open every day. Clarence Cook says that "it is entitled to respect among the museums of the world, as it certainly stands first among the museums of our own country." The capital art-schools connected with the museum, and others in the vicinity, draw students from all parts of the country, and great benefit comes to them from the study of the statuary and paintings. In the vicinity of Boston Common are found the chief studios, and some of the art- schools for which the city is famous. Here also is the great picture-gallery and print-shop of Doll & Richards, a firm which for many decades has been favorably known to the art-lovers and connoisseurs of New England and New York. Here may be seen every variety of fine line engravings, etchings of great delicacy and force, carbon and other photographic reproductions of the leading pictures of European galleries, and many admirable and beautiful paintings by the foremost of American and foreign artists ; and other objects of art, of perennial boston : normal art school. BOSTON ; ALGONQUIN CLUB. TO " BOSTON: DOLL &. RICHARDS. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. interest and value. The exhibition-gallery, capitally lighted and ar ranged, has been the scene of many interesting displays of American art, from the cool and Corot-like Merrimac-Valley pictures of John Appleton Brown to the refined and delicate work of the local genre- painters, so widely and so greatly celebrated. Here the choice works of Charles H. Davis, Edward E. Simmons, Ross Turner, Winslow Homer, Dodge McKnight, and other masters are to be found, on exhibition and for sale. The Doll & Richards store and gallery are in the Warren Building, which was erected expressly for the accommodation of their business. It is near the State House, and fronting on the famous Park-Street Mall, of Boston Common. Doll & Richards is to Boston what Goupil is to New York, or Hazeltine to Philadelphia. The development of popular art of a high order in America owes a great deal to Louis Prang, a native and art-student of Breslau, Prussia, who came here, in 1850, as a political refugee. Six years later, the young German united with a lithographic printer to make pictures of bouquets for ladies' magazines, studying every detail of the business with earnest care. In i860 he bought out his partner, and adopted the now famous title of L. Prang & Co. ; and after the ensuing period of war-maps and generals' portraits, he went to Europe, and looked over the whole field of lithography. In 1865 he brought out the famous Bricher landscapes, followed by Eastman Johnson's "Barefoot Boy," and other triumphs of the new chromo-lithographic art, reproducing to the eye the beauty and character of the original paintings. Mr. Prang now has a large factory in the Roxbury suburb of Boston, and employs 150 skilled workmen. Branch -houses are established at New York and San Francisco, and agencies all over the world. The Prang holiday cards, the Prang valentines, the chromo-lithographs, art-studies and other exquisite art- products of this house have become famous wherever civilization exists. The Low Art Tile Works, at Chelsea, form the most noted establishment of the kind in America. John G. Low was a pupil in the studios of Troyon and Couture, and afterwards a successful painter. Recognizing the value of plastic art in decoration, he drudged for a year in a pottery, to learn its elements ; and then he and his father set up a kiln, where, after many costly and vexatious experiments in clays and mixtures and methods, full success crowned the work. The materials,' Pennsylvania kaolin, Connecticut feldspar and New- Jersey clay, are ground as fine as flour and then mixed, and moistened like damp sugar, after which they are pressed into tiles, and dried for several days in the fire-brick kilns. The glaze is then applied and baked until it fuses in, forming rich olives and yellows, delicate grays and browns, and strong and pure greens and blacks. These exquisite tiles, Moorish or classic, Renaissance or Elizabethan, with flowers or portraits in high relief, are used extensively for friezes and borders, hearths and fire-places, and for artistic stoves and soda-fountains. In 1889 the business was incorporated as The Low Art Tile Co. The Forbes Lithograph Manufacturing Company is an outcome of art development. The works at Chelsea, a suburb of Boston, are the most complete and extensive of their kind in America, and give employment to 500 people. The main offices are in BOSTON IROXBURYJ : l. PRANG &. CO. CHELSEA : THE LOW ART TILE CO. FORBES LITHOGRAPH MANUFACTURING CO. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Boston, with branches in New York, Phila delphia, Baltimore, Chicago and San Francisco. The business was established in 1 86 1, and in corporated in 1875 ; and manufactures largely for this country, Europe and South America. Its product embraces all branches of lithog raphy, from exquisite engravings for banking and commercial use to fine chromo-work in many colors. Among them are the well-known Albertype reproductions of engravings and art-works, for illustrating fine books. It also manufactures very largely for mills and corpor ations. Fine theatrical printing is an important branch. The Forbes Co. 's latest achievement in illustration is the new process of Photo-Color work, which is a triumph of modern art. The Public Libraries are particularly notable. Foremost stand the great Boston Public Library, 540,000 volumes; the Harvard-University libraries, 377,000; and the Bos ton Athenaeum, 155,000. Each of the following exceeds 50,000 volumes: Amherst Col lege, the State Library, and the libraries at New Bedford, Springfield, Worcester, and the American Antiquarian Society at Worcester. Each of these exceeds 25,000 volumes : An dover Seminary, Boston Library, Boston Society of Natural History, Haverhill, Essex Institute (Salem), Lynn, Brookline, Massachusetts Historical Society (Boston), Lowell, Lawrence, Peabody Institute, Congregational (Boston), Taunton, and Woburn. Public libraries are supported in 222 cities and towns of Massachusetts, and contain 2, 500,000 books, besides which there are 2, 200 religious and other libraries, with 3,600,000 books. A legislative commission is em powered to help establish free libraries in the towns not yet possessing them. Some of the handsomest stone buildings in the country are those erected in Massachu setts, by private munificence, for public libraries. Among these is the architectural gem at Woburn, the Crane Library at Quincy, the building erected at Maiden by the generosity of the Hon. E. S. Converse, that given to Cambridge by Frederick H. Rindge, and the libraries at Concord, Lincoln, Newton and other localities. The quaintly beautiful Memorial Library and Grand-Army Hall at Man- chester-by-the-Sea was presented to the town, in 1887, by Thomas Jefferson Coolidge. It is French in architectural feeling, adorned with Mexican onyx, Numidian marble, Tiffany stained glass, and an ancient carved screen from Morlaix. . The Boston Public Library, projected in 1841 and incorporated in 1852, is the largest in the world for free circulation, and includes the magnificent special collections of George Ticknor, Theodore Parker, Nathaniel Bowditch, Edward Everett and others. There are eight branch libraries in the city. The municipality grants about $120,000 a year to the library;, and is now erecting for it a magnificent and spacious new stone building, in the similitude of a Roman palace, at a cost of over $2,000,000. The library issues 1,000,000 books a year for home use, and 700,000 periodicals in the reading-room. It is one of the most popular and useful institutions of the modern Athens. . The Nevins Memorial Library at Methuen was founded in memory of the date David Nevins, a prominent merchant and manufacturer, who passed the greater part of his life at Methuen, where he died in 188 1. It had been his intention to found a library during his life time ; and this unfulfilled purpose was carried out by his widow and sons, and the Nevins QUINCY ; CRANE LIBRARY. BOSTON : BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY. METHUEN I NEVINS MEMORIAL LIBRARY. THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 363 Memorial Library arose, on the site chosen and purchased for that use, years before. The build ing was planned, and its construction supervised, by the well-known architect, Samuel J. F. Thayer, of Boston, and the complete structure was opened to the public in 1884. It contains an ample and beautiful public hall, a library of 10,000 volumes, reading-room, waiting-room, and librarian's and trustees' apartments. The building is a handsome Romanesque edifice, with some very interesting architectural features. It is the purpose of the founders to endow the in stitution with enough money to make it entirely self-supporting. In its noble public libraries, Massachusetts leads all the States. The New-England Conservatory of Music in Boston is the largest school of music and associated arts in the world, having 80 instructors, and 2,200 students. The late Dr. Eben Tourj6e introduced the Conservatory system (since so widely copied) to America, in 1853, and established this school in 1867. It was incorporated and placed under the control of a board of 50 trustees in 1870; and in 1882 the immense and handsome St. -James-Hotel building, on Franklin Square, was purchased for its use. Its spacious halls include the offices, instruction-rooms, reception-rooms, li brary, museum, and concert-room, and home accommodations for 400 lady- pupils. The Conservatory embraces five departments : 1, music, embracing all branches of technical and theo retical study ; 2, piano and organ tuning; 3, general literature and languages ; 4, elocution and physical culture, and the College of Oratory ; 5, Fine Arts. The musical instruction of the College of Music of Boston University is also given here. Pupils come hither from all parts of the United States, and from many other countries, and enjoy not only the best possible facilities for study, but a large list of free collateral advantages, and all the safeguards and comforts of a Christian home. The faculty includes many of the most learned and prominent artists and teachers in this country, and neither money nor effort is spared to make the institution worthy in the highest degree of public confidence and patronage. The trustees and officers include a number of the best- known and most influential and respected business men and clergymen of Boston. The fact that the Conservatory has achieved its eminent success without any endowment or other aid, makes it unique among educational institutions. Relieved of indebtedness, and in the possession of the endowment of which its success and great usefulness have made it worthy, the Conservatory will prove a yet greater honor to Boston and a blessing to the world. Memorials. — The uncounted myriads who have passed from the old Bay State into the unknown land beyond the grave are honored by many a beautiful ceme tery, unsurpassed in the world. Among these are Mount Auburn, at Cambridge, the last resting-place of Longfellow, Agassiz and Sumner, and many other boston : boston art club. illustrious men ; Forest Hills and Mount Hope, also BOSTON I NEW-ENGLAND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC. 3 ihwm '. '' "to: - to - --- - BELDING: BELDING BROS. & CO.'S SILK-MILL. The aborigines of Min nesota were the Chippe- was, occupying more than half the State, in its forest and lake regions ; and the Dakotas (latterly called Sioux), roaming over the open prairies. The Chip- pewas were woods Indians, with canoes ; the Dakotas were plains Indians, with ponies. The two nations were hereditary enemies, and the Upper Mississippi Valley was the debateable ground between them. Their local names, Winona, Mendota, Anoka, Wapashaw, Kasota and many others, are their imperishable memorials in the valley of the Mississippi. The Dakotas were divided into the Isanyati, Ihanktonwan (Yankton), and Titonwan clans. The Assin- inboines, along the Rainy River, broke off from their Dakota brethren, as a result of an ancient Paris and Helen tragedy, and remained their inveterate enemies. The religious rites and beliefs, the legends and traditions, of the Dakotas are of singular interest, and have inspired a large body of lit erature. The first white visitors to these shores were French fur-traders, who came hither as early as 1659. They were followed by missionary priests, who laid down their lives gladly for their holy cause, but made no impres sion on the fierce Northwestern savages. In 1678 Du Luth established the first trading-posts in Minnesota ; planted the royal arms of France among the Sisseton Sioux ; and visited Mille Lacs. In 1680 Father Hennepin and two French traders ascended the Mississippi to St. -Anthony's Falls ; and they were borne thence to the Dakota villages near Mille Lacs. In 1688 Perrot founded, on Lake Pepin, the first French establishment in Minnesota; and thereafter, for nearly 80 years, the missionaries and traders of France visited the Upper Mississippi, and dwelt in little forts between Lake Superior and the great river. After France surrendered its vast American empire to Great Britain, an adventurous Connecticut man, Jonathan STATISTICS Settled at . . Fort Snelling. Settled in ... . 1819 Founded by . . . Americans. Admitted as a State, . 1857 Population in 1860, 172,023 In 1870, 439,706 70O.773 . 776,884 Ini88ot . . White, . . Colored, . . 3,889 American-born, 513.097 Foreign-born, . 267,676 Males, 419,149 Females, . . . 361,624 In 1800 (U. S. Census), . 1,301,826 Population to the square mile, q.8 Voting Population (1880] 213,485 Vote for Harrison (1888), 142,492 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 104,385 Net State Debt, 0 Real Property, . Personal Property, $382,000, 000 $87,000,000 Area (square miles), . U.S. Representatives, • 83,365 \ 5 Militia (Disciplined), . 1.952 80 Post-offices, . . . 1,277 RailroadS (mites), . 5,340 89 Tonnage, .... 9,59i Manufactures (yearly), $76,065,198 Operatives, . . . 21,212 Yearly Wages, . . 38,613,194 Farm Land (in acres), 13,403,019 Farm-Land Values, §193,724,260 Farm Products (yearly), $49,468,951 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 111,641 Newspapers, . . . 427 Latitude, . 43°30' to 490 N. Longitude, 89°2g' to 9705/ W. Temperature, . . . — 540 to 1030 Mean Temperature (St, Paul), 42° TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR FOP- ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890.) Minneapolis, 164,738 St. Paul, . . . 133. l56 Duluth, • aa Winona, . Stillwater, . . 11,260 Mankato 8,838 St. Clond (unofficial) , 6,532 Faribault, " . . 6,524 Red Wing, " 6,277 Rochester, " 5,321 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LAKE MINNETONKA. Carver, ascended the Mississippi to the falls (in 1766), and sojourned among the Dakotas on the Minnesota River. During most of the remainder of the cen tury the country was occupied by the fur-trading posts of the Northwestern Company. Minnesota was made up of two sections. The part east of the Mississippi belonged to New France, discovered and owned by the French, and ceded to Great Britain in 1763. A vast area of this domain, along the Ohio, was con quered by George Rogers Clark, in 1778, and annexed to Virginia, which ceded it to the United States, under the name of "The Territory North west of the River Ohio," in 1784. The part of Minnesota west of the Mississippi belonged to the province of Louisiana, and remained nominally under French rule until 1763, when it was ceded to Spain, and pertained to that Government for 40 years. In 1803 it passed into the possession of the United States, by virtue of the Louisiana Purchase from France (to which it had been retroceded). The first United-States officer to visit Minnesota was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, who came hither in 1805, to expel the lingering British traders ; and obtained from the Sioux a grant of nine miles square, including the site of Fort Snelling and the Falls of St. Anthony. The country remained in the hands of the fur-traders and the Indians until 1820, when Col. Leavenworth and the Fifth United-States Infantry built Fort Snelling, and Gov. Lewis Cass and Henry R. Schoolcraft explored the valley. Three years later, the first steamboat (the Virginia) ascended the Mississippi into Minnesota, and frightened all the Indians out of Mendota ; and Maj. Long's detachment explored the Minnesota valley, to Big- Stone Lake-; and Count Beltrami discovered the source of the Mississippi. In 1832 the Rev. Wm. T. Boutwell opened a mission among the Chippewas ; and in 1834 H. H. Sibley settled at Mendota. In 1836-7 the I region of St. Paul received its first settlers, a group of Swiss colonists, retreating from the inclement Hudson's-Bay Terri tory, where they had been planted by the eccentric Lord Selkirk. In 1836 Nicollet, a Swiss scientific person, encamped three days at Lake Itasca, and explored and mapped all its inlets. In 1834 Samuel W. and Gideon H. Pond began their mission-work, at Lake Calhoun ; followed, the next year, by Dr. T. S. Williamson, at Lac qui Parle. Stephen R. Riggs came in 1837. In those days there were myriads of buffalo in Minnesota, and the red hunters pursued them undisturbed over the immeasurable prairies. In 1850 the Minnesota Historical Society began its noble labors ; and the steamers A nthony Wayne and Nominee ascended the Min nesota River nearly to Mankato, followed by the Yankee, which went nearly to New Ulm. Meantime, the Sioux and Chippewas had been killing each other off, as the result of a feud extending back for centuries ; and those spared by the toma hawk had been decimated by famine and small-pox. As the white settlements advanced up the great river, the domains of the savages were bought up by the Government, and the fragments of the tribes receded toward Dakota. The population rose from 4,000 in 1849 to 172,000 in i860; and the cultivated area from 15,000 acres in 1854 to 433,000 acres in i860. The troops sent by Minnesota into the Secession War included 1 1 regiments and 1 battalion of infantry, I regiment of heavy artillery, 2 regiments and 2 battalions of cavalry, 3 batteries, and 2 companies of : rf „.I5SI ,; , j.fi FORT SNELLING. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 421 sharpshooters, numbering in all 25,052 men. In 1862, when the army garrisons and 5,000 of the able-bodied men of Minnesota were cam paigning in the South, the Sioux broke into re bellion, and inside of two days cruelly killed 800 whites in the State. Fort Ridgely and New Ulm repulsed the savages, and Col. Sibley entered the devastated country with a strong column of volunteers, defeating the Sioux at Wood Lake, and rescuing 150 white captives, who had already suf fered unspeakable outrages. Four hundred red warriors became prisoners, and 38 of them were hung on one scaffold, at Mankato. A subsequent campaign, carried into Dakota, completed the terrible work of punishment. 'In its Territorial days Minnesota issued bonds to a large amount in aid of railway con struction. The companies defaulted payment, and the State turned the plants over to other corporations. But the bonds remained to be paid, and the questions of how or whether to pay them were the chief local topics for many years. A popular vote in 1882 arranged for a sinking-fund to meet this $4,000,000. The Name Minnesota comes from the Dakota language, Minne signifying "Water." Sotah means "Blear," or, as the Historical Society explains it, the peculiar appearance of the sky on certain days, neither white nor blue, giving the name of the State as "Sky- tinted Waters. " It was originally applied by the Dakotas to the Minnesota River. At tempts were made to have the State named Chippeway, Itasca, Washington, or Jackson. The pet names of Minnesota are The North-Star State, from the motto on its seal ; The Gopher State, because it used to be infested with these animals ; and The Lake State, from its myriad of interior lakes. The Arms of Minnesota were devised by Gov. Ramsey and Henry H. Sibley, in 1849-50. They bear : the Falls of St. Anthony in the distance ; a pioneer ploughing the prairie on the borders of the Indian country, full of hope and looking forward to the pos session of the hunting-grounds beyond ; an Indian, amazed at the sight of the plough, and fleeing on horseback toward the setting sun. The motto was Qua sursum volo videre, ' ' I wish to see what is above ; " but this was wrecked into incomprehensibility by an ignorant engraver; and subsequently the phrase, L'Etoile du Nord, "The Star of the JTorth," was adopted in its place, by Gov. Sibley, on account of the north erly location of the State in the Union. The Governors of Minnesota have been : Territorial : Alex. Ram sey, 1849-53 ; Willis A. Gorman, 1853—7 5 Samuel Medary, 1857-8; Slate: Henry H. Sibley, 1858-60; Alex. Ramsey, 1860-3 ; Henry A. Swift, 1863-64; Stephen Miller, 1864 -6; Wm. R. Marshall, 1866-70; Horace Austin, 1870-4; Cushman K. Davis, 1874-6; John S. Pillsbury, 1876-82; Lucius F. Hubbard, 1882 -7 ; Andrew R. McGill, 1887-9 > alKl Wm. R. Merriam, 1889-93. Descriptive. — Minnesota is one of the northern tier of States, reach ing up to the 49th parallel, and bounded beyond by the Canadian WINONA. SUGAR LOAF. MISSISSIPPI RIVER, FROM FORT SNELLING. 422 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. WHITE-BEAR LAKE. provinces of Manitoba and Keewatin. The Dakotas lie along its western border, and Iowa on the south ; and the east rests on Wisconsin and Lake Superior. It covers an area much greater than that of New Eng land, mainly an undulating plain from 800 to 1,000 feet above the sea. The centre and south are rolling prairies, beautiful with flashing lakes and silvery streams. In the eastern part of this prairie country, the long strip of the Big Woods, covering 5,000 square miles, runs south from St. Cloud to Le Sueur, where it crosses the Minnesota, and sends branches toward Faribault and Mankato. It is 100 miles long, and from ten to 40 miles wide, and four fifths of it lies north of the Minnesota. This great belt of hardwood timber is one of the most valuable deciduous forests in the. West. The Park region lies above the Big Woods, with a vast area of undulating prairie, agreeably diversified with oak-groves and shining lakes, and melting away into the Red- River prairies. The Heights of Land {Hauteurs des Terres), are a line of flat-topped sandhills, from 400 to 600 feet above the prairies, separating the Mississippi waters from those flowing to Lake Superior. The Leaf Mountains {Coteau du Grand Bois) run 150 miles south from this ridge, near Lake Itasca, 1,400 feet high. North of the line of Duluth and Moorhead a great belt of pine-woods extends from Lake Superior across the sources of the Mississippi to the Red River. Beyond the prairies, to the north ward, a lofty wilderness of tamaracks and stunted pines separates the Mississippi and Rainy-Lake valleys. High granite hills follow the Lake-Superior coast ; and in this northeastern region are vast swamps of wild rice, cranberries and hemlocks. In a general way, there fore, the State is divided into the northern slope, or Red-River and Rainy- Lake region, with rich prairies on the west, and heavy timber on the east ; the south ern slope, or Mississippi Valley, occupied by rolling prairies and woods ; and the 21,000 square miles of the eastern slope, abounding in forests, and with valuable mineral resources. The Mississippi Valley occupies two thirds of the State, falling 1,000 feet from Lake Itasca to the Iowa line, in a gentle slope of three feet to a mile. In the lower part of ftiis incline the scenery is very attractive, with groves and copses and oak-openings sprinkled over the undulating grassy plains. From the great central plateau of Minnesota the Mississippi begins its course to the Gulf of Mexico, the Red River of the North starts for Hudson Bay, and the uppermost of the Great Lakes turns its crystal tides toward the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the misty North Atlantic. The water sheds of these three of the noblest river-systems in the world trav erse the State in every direction, their long broken ridges rising from 1,000 to 1,800 feet above the sea. There are 1,532 miles of navigable waters in Minnesota, on which ply over 100 vessels, aside from the lake and river steamers enrolled at outside ports. The Mississippi River rises in Lake Itasca, amid the wooded hills of northern Minnesota, 1,575 feet above tidewater. Here it has a width of twelve feet, and a depth of two feet, and sweeps around a great curve, northeast, east, south and southwest. After traversing Pemidji Lake it is, 1 20 feet wide, and beyond Cass Lake it reaches 172 feet. The United States has built four large reser voirs, at a cost of above $600,000, at Cross Lake, Winnibigoshish Lake and elsewhere, resulting in benefit to navigation, and partly averting floods. The head of navigation on the Mississippi River VERMILION FALLS. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 423 FALLS OF MINNEHAHA. is at the Falls of Pokegama, near Leech River, and 270 miles from the source. In the next 200 miles below there is an aggre gate fall of 165 feet, chiefly at Sauk Rapids and Little Falls, except for which the stream is navigable 400 miles above Minne apolis, for small steamers. The only stretch now navigated is the 165 miles from Aitkin, on the Northern Pacific, north to Grand Rapids, where three steamboats ply up and down, with supplies for the lumber-camps. The shores are bold and rocky below Sauk Rapids, 70 miles from which the stream, now grown to a breadth of 1,200 feet, thunders over St. -Anthony's Falls. Sixty miles further on its way to the Gulf the Mississippi broadens to from one to three miles, for a length of 25 miles ; and this beau tiful expanse is known as Lake Pepin. Among the legend- haunted localities on its shores are Maiden's Rock, the Sugar Loaf, the Robbers' Cave, and Point au Sable, once the site of a French border-fortress. Frontenac is one of the favorite sum mer-resorts of the Northwest, and overlooks Lake Pepin and a succession of rocky bluffs and golden grain-fields, melting away into the far-extending prairies. The Mississippi, when it leaves Minnesota, is a noble river, half a mile wide and from five to 20 feet deep ; and'has afforded 540 miles of navigable waters within her boundaries. In its lower course, the stream winds from side to side of the beautiful valley, which is bordered by fine lime stone cliffs, overhung by green domes of foliage and the gleam-flitted corn-ocean of summer. Numberless islands part the crystal waters, some of them large enough for cultivation, and others mere bouquets of trees and shrubbery. It is one of the fairest river-vistas in America, and delights the eyes of thousands of tourists every summer. The Minnesota River rises on the Coteau des Prairies, within a mile of Lake Traverse, the origin of a main tributary of the Red River of the North ; and flows 440 miles to the Mississippi, at Fort Snelling, receiving on the way the Blue-Earth, Chippewa, and Lac-qui-Parle Rivers. In high water steamboats have ascended for 238 miles to Granite Falls, but railway competi tion has killed off the water-traffic. Fifteen miles from its source the Minnesota widens into Big-Stone Lake, stretching for 30 miles along the Dakota frontier, and much frequented in summer by yachtsmen and fishermen. The Red River of the North rises in Elbow Lake, only a few miles from Lake Itasca, and at Breckenridge, 200 miles below, receives the Bois- des-Sioux River from Traverse Lake. Down to this point it is generally known as the Otter-Tail River. In and along Minnesota's prairies it flows for over 500 miles, through a level belt of rich alluvial mould 40 miles wide, peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of wheat. Nominally, Breckenridge is the head of navigation, but steamboats rarely ascend beyond Fort Abercrombie, 26 miles below. The Goose Rapids, 192 miles below Brecken ridge, are navigable only during high water. The distance from Breckenridge to the Can adian frontier is 397 miles. Far to the north the Red River pours into Lake Winnipeg through six months, in a lonely land of marshes, and ulti mately its waters enter the icy tides of Hudson Bay. The St. -Croix River is ascended by steamboats as far as Taylor's Falls (52 miles); and the St. -Louis has 21 miles navigable. MINNEAPOLIS : SUSPENSION BRIDGE. DETROIT LAKE. 424 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Falls of Minnehaha, made forever famous by Long fellow's Hiawatha song, are near Fort Snelling, on the little stream flowing from Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, two pretty suburban resorts for the people of St. Paul and Minneapolis. The falls are 59 feet high, amid great beauty of woodland scenery, and although there is but little water the delicate lace-like effect of the cascade makes a fine contrast with the enwalling gorge and the overhanging birch-trees. Near Grand Portage the Pigeon River falls 144 feet in a course of 1,200 feet, between the lofty per pendicular walls of a rocky gorge. The Falls of St. Croix occur in a canon of trap-rock 1 50 feet deep. There are picturesque cascades on the Vermilion, Kettle, Kaw- imbash and many other streams. Near St. Paul is Car- MINNEAPOLIS I THE POST-OFFICE. "?"«¦ MINNEAPOLIS : CEMETERY LODGE. ver's Cave, where Jonathan Carver made a treaty with the Sioux, in 1767 ; and two miles above the city the dark halls of Fountain Cave enter the bluffs for over 1,000 feet, and are traversed by a murmuring stream. Nicollet, the explorer, named the Park region Undine, on account of its everywhere-present lakes and streams. The lakes are 10,000 in number, of all shapes and sizes, and covering 4,160 square miles. They were left here when the continental ice-sheet melted, in deep basins scooped out by the glaciers. Their waters are clear, cold and crystalline, revealing clean pebbly bottoms, and lapsing gently against rocky shores, over which wave the long grasses of the prairies, or the foliage of the northern forests. Besides their great beauty in the landscape, and their value for fishing, these myriad lochs serve a useful purpose in modifying the temperature. They abound in trout, pike, pickerel, cat-fish, sunfish, perch, rock bass, black bass and other valuable fish ; and the neighboring forests contain deer, bears, wolves, foxes, lynxes, beaver, mink, musk-rats, otter, game birds and water-fowl. Among the chief of these lakes are Leech Lake, of 194 square miles; Mille Lacs, 198; Red, 342; Winnibigoshish, 78; and Vermilion, 63. On the north frontier lie Rainy Lake(i46 square miles)and the Lake of the Woods(6i2 square miles), most of whose waters and shores belong to Canada. Steamboats ply on Rainy Lake and River, the latter of which descends in 100 miles to the Lake of the Woods, whose outlet is to the Winnipeg River. Both these lakes have many wooded islands and pictur esque bays, and shores in part marshy and abounding in wild rice. Lake Minnetonka stretches its network of many bays amid the Big Woods, 15 miles southwest of Minneapo lis, and is fringed with summer-resorts, and traversed by pleasure-steamboats. White- Bear Lake, four miles long, is a favorite summer-home for St. -Paul families, with hotels and villas overlooking its sandy beaches and sky-tinted water and forested islands. Many handsome yachts fly over this forest-fringed loch, which abounds in fish. Northeast from Duluth the iron-bound coast of Lake Superior trends away for 167 miles, before it reaches the Canadian frontier, at Pigeon River. There are but few inhabitants along this stormy shore, where huge cliffs of greenstone and porphyry face the perpetual assaults of the waves. Near Baptism River the Pali sades rise in singular columns of rock, from 50 to 80 feet high, and from one to six feet in diameter. Climate. — The summer resemblest hat of Philadel phia, as to its hot days, but the nights are cool and re freshing, owing to the high altitude. Maury praised "the steel-blue night skies of Minnesota, so brilliant and -«' H-XMiEHlJiffifl MINNEAPOLIS I PUBLIC LIBRARY. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 425 MINNEAPOLIS lovely." The winters are severe, but with a dry and bracing air which enables people to bear their rigors with comfort. Proctor Knott said that the winters of Duluth froze the smoke-stacks off the locomotives. The temperature of Fort Snelling is similar to that of Montreal, Plattsburgh, the Berkshire Hills and the Aroostook Country, but with less than half as much _ snow. The winter has a comparatively light snowfall, which grows heavier in February and March, followed by a rapid change to the flow ers of spring. The mean temperature south of Moorhead and Duluth, and of the Red-River country up to Pembina, is 400 ; that of the northern sections is 360. The healthfulness of this climate has for many years been recognized, and even pulmonary complaints are bene fited by it. The larger proportion of the winter days are bright and still, and a tempera ture of — 200 brings no great hardship. But on the few winter days when high winds are added to low temperature, great suffering may result, unless shelter is found. Farming. — The soil of southern and central Minnesota is a deep grayish-brown or black sandy loam, from two to five feet deep, rich in organic matter and stimulating mineral salts, and endowed with untiring durability. West of the Mississippi extend large areas of rich limestone soil, with argillaceous earth along the Red River. Extensive swamps enfold the head-lakes of the Mississippi, and fill broad areas in the northeast. The extreme north is for the most part rocky and barren and unfit for cultivation. In 1880 11,000,000 acres had not been surveyed, andover 20,000,000 still remained in the hands of the Government. Three fourths of this is arable land. The wheat-crop rarely fails, and its area is continually expanding, espec ially along the Red-River Valley and the Northern Pacific Railroad. The hard spring wheat of this region is the best in the world, and produces the finest flour. The production of wheat has exceeded 45,000,000 bushels in a year; of oats, 48,000,000 bushels; of corn, 22,000,000 bushels; of barley, 9,000,000 bushels. This rich northwestern garden is prolific also in flaxseed, buckwheat, rye, potatoes, and many varieties of apples, grapes, strawberries and other fruits. Only one fifth of the tillable soil, or one eighth of the soil of the State, is under cultivation, and vast areas still invite the immigrant. After 1873 the exclusive rais ing of wheat gave place to a more diversified farming, with a larger attention to stock-rais ing. Minnesota has 316,000 horses, 771,000 cattle, 275,000 sheep, and 410,000 swine. In a single year the product of butter has exceeded 15,000,000 pounds, and that of cheese has passed 1,500,000 pounds. Half of Minnesota rests under the shadow of forests, and extensive lumbering operations have been carried on along the upper Mississippi and St. -Croix and their tributaries, and on the St. -Louis. The State has produced in a year 472,000,000 feet of sawed lumber and 180,000,000 shingles. The Mississippi Val ley, north of Minneapolis, usually produces 180,000,000 feet of lumber yearly. In the year 1880 there were standing 6, 100,000,000 feet of white pine ; and the hardwood forests then covered 3, 840, 000 acres. Large premiums have been given for tree-planting on the prairies, for wind-breaks and woodlands; and 30,000,000 trees have been set out in the open country. The lumber of the St. -Cloud region and other broad MINNEAPOLIS \ THE UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA. MINNEAPOLIS : COLLEGE HOSPITAL. 426 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MINNEAPOLIS I LUMBER OF N. CLARKE & CO. areas of woodlands is handled mainly by the firm of N. P. Clarke & Co., who often have at one time stocks valued at above half a million dollars, in lumber and logs. This firm has its offices in the grand Lumber Exchange, at Minneapolis, and conducts a. large and increas ing business in connection with the forest pro ducts of northern Minnesota, so greatly in de mand in the treeless prairie States to the west ward. Large areas of pine lands are owned or controlled, and employ 700 men, getting out from 60,000,000 to 90,000,000 feet of lumber every year. N. P. Clarke & Co. are the leading house in the lumber trade of Minnesota. Mr. Clarke is also well-known as the largest holder of improved farm-property in Minne sota, one of his estates, near St. Cloud, having an area of 4,000 acres. In these broad domains he raises many blooded cattle and horses, chiefly as a diversion, although it has also proved to be a profitable business. Mining;. — The great iron mines of the Vermilion and Mesabi Ranges, about 100 miles north of Duluth, are among the productive points of an ore-field extending from the fron tier past Ely and Tower to the Mississippi. It is a soft ore, sometimes yielding 67 per cent. of iron, and so low in phosphorus as to come within the Bessemer limit. More than 600,000 tons are sent out yearly by the Minnesota Iron Company alone, and in 1890 870,000 tons, valued at $5,000,000, were shipped from Two Harbors, a port northeast of Duluth. The pioneer in mining in the rich Vermilion Range is the Minnesota Iron Company, incorpor ated in 1882, and with an authorized capital of $20,000,000, of which $14,000,000 are paid in. The mines are near Lake Vermilion, 100 miles north of Duluth, and near them the city of Tower and the village of Soudan have sprung up. Begin ning operations in 1884, this powerful company has advanced to a point where it mines and ships yearly more than 500, 000 tons of hard red hematite ore, very rich in metallic iron, and for the most part within the Bessemer limit of phosphorus. The mines are worked throughout the year, employing nearly 1,200 men, and provided with a plant including mining and ore-raising machinery, with offices and shops, homes for the men, and a well-equipped hospital and school-house. The Duluth & Iron- Range Railroad, carrying the ore to the port of Two Harbors (20 miles from Duluth), and The Minnesota Steam-Ship Company, with six large steel vessels, are closely connected with the Minnesota Iron Company. Four fifths of the ore goes to the furnaces in Pennsylvania, New York and Ohio, and the balance is used at Chicago. The lake-region in the vicinity of Tower is picturesque, and is becoming a favorite resort for sportsmen and summer-campers. Among Minnesota's building-stones are the pink limestone of Kasota, the cream limestone of Red Wing and Faribault, the dolomite of Roches ter, and the white stone of Kasson. Fine glass- sand abounds around Faribault ; and the clay of Austin and Albert Lea is used by many brick yards. In the northeast, near Fond du Lac and Sandstone, there are quarries of brownstone, em ploying many hundred men. Mankato has exten- tower : Minnesota iron cc TOWER : MINNESOTA IRON CO. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 427 TOWER : MINNESOTA IRON CO. sive quarries ; and its mills send out 8,000 car-loads of cement yearly, besides great quantities of drain- tile and sewer-pipe, brick, and fire-brick. St. Cloud has a score of quarries of fine gray, white and red granite, from which have been obtained the materials for the Pioneer-Press and New- York Life buildings at St. Paul, the Minneapolis Li brary, and other important structures. Luverne, in the remote south west,has quarries of red jasper (quartzite), locally used in building, and when polished rivalling Mexican onyx in beauty. The Great Red Pipestone Quarry, where the opening scenes of Longfellow's Hiawatha occur, is near Pipestone City, in southwestern Minnesota. Here the Coteau des Prairies rises 450 feet above the surrounding country, and 2,000 feet above the sea, and preserves this height for 130 miles, overlooking the treeless plains until in the remote distance the living green of the land meets the blue of the sky. The stone is near the crest of this mound-ridge, in a grassy valley overlooked by remarkable cliffs ; and this is the only place in the world where it is found. It is a com pact blood-red stone, easily carved and susceptible of a dull polish ; and pipes from this material have been found as far away as New York and Georgia. The Indian tribes used to come to the quarry every year and dig for the precious pipe-stone, dwelling in peace with each other while in this holy land. The Population is made up of two different elements, the descendants of the early settlers, com ing largely from New England, and the more recent migrations of Swedes and Norwegians, Danes and Russians, Icelanders and Lapps, and other hardy race:; from Northern Europe. Near New- York Mills dwell 4,000 Finns, preserving their strange Tartar language and literature, and supporting the news paper called Amerikan Suometar {Finnish- Ameri can). The Indian population, once so powerful, has ceased to be of account. The Sioux have been pushed across the Dakota border and their old land knows them no more. In the north are 9,000 or more of the inteiesting Chippewa tribe, scattered in bands among the lakes, and taught by Catholic and Episcopal missionaries. The Chippewas in 1889 were per suaded to sell their great reservations at Red Lake, Mille Lacs, Vermilion Lake and else where, receiving lands in severalty, and surrendering their tribal relations. The lands are to be sold by the United-States Government, and the proceeds placed in the Treasury, bearing interest at 5 per cent., which is to be paid out for and to the Indians. Government. — The Governor and executive officers are elected by the people every two years. The legislature includes 54 senators and 1 14 representatives, and meets biennially. The judges are elected by the people. Women vote, and may hold office in school affairs. The National Guard of Minnesota includes two regiments of in fantry, of ten companies each, a battery of artillery and a troop of cavalry. There is also the Third Regiment of infantry, armed but not otherwise main tained by the State, being composed of ten inde pendent companies. The State campground is near Lake City, and has rifle-ranges and other military MOORHEAD \ STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. accessories. TWO HARBORS : MINNESOTA IRON CO. 'S DOCKS. 42J KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. FARIBAULT : SHATTUCK SCHOOL. The Minnesota Institute for Defectives, at Faribault, in cludes the school for the deaf (150 inmates), the school for the blind (45), and the school for feeble-minded (300). The State Public School for Dependent Children was founded in 1885 at Owatonna. The State Prison, at Stillwater, has 400 convicts, and 200 empty cells. The State Reformatory was erected in 1888-9, on the heights over St. Cloud, and has inexhaustible quarries of granite on its grounds. The State Reform School for boys and girls is at St. Paul. The hospitals for the insane, at St. Peter, Rochester, and Fergus Falls, have 2,400 inmates. The State Soldiers' Home was opened in 1887, in a park of 51 acres given by Minneapolis, on the beautiful point at the junction of the Mississippi River and Minnehaha Creek, and contiguous to the great city parks. The twelve handsome brick cottages, administration building, hospital and chapel, some of which are already constructed and occupied, will have cost over $250,000, making the finest State home for veterans in America. The Soldiers' Orphans' Home is at Winona. Education is carefully looked after, and wisely and liberally administered. The Minneapolis high-schools have manual training shops. The amount expended yearly is above $4,000,000; and the school-fund amounts to nearly $9,000,000, and will be $20,000,000 when all the land has been sold. The normal schools at Mankato, Winona, Moorhead and St. Cloud have 800 students. The University of the State of Minnesota was decreed in 1857 and opened in 1869, endowed by the United States and supported by the State. The buildings stand on a bluff in an undulating and wooded park of 45 acres, a mile below and in full view of the Falls of St. Anthony, at Minneapolis. There are seven substantial structures, with adequate muse ums and a library of 24, 000 volumes. No provision is made for dormitories. The University has over 1,000 students (one fifth of them women), of whom 580 are in the college of literature and mechanic arts; 130 in the schools of agriculture, art and practical mechanics; 125 in the law-school; and 125 in the medical and dental schools. There are also 40 graduate students. The faculty, instructors and lecturers num ber 108. The students form a battalion of infantry, with a uniformed company of girls, drilled in military exercises daily, and commanded by an officer of the United-States army. -wiiHlf t" PAUL : CONVENT OF THE GOOD SHEPHERD. The drill-hall is one of the largest in America, and occasionally pose of an assembly-hall, seating 3,500 persons. The experimental cultural College is two miles from the University, near Lake Como, and occupies 250 acres. Carleton College was opened at Northfield in 1867, by New-England Congregation alists, to be a great Christian school for the Northwest. It has six good buildings, 19 instructors and 67 students (besides 196 preparatory). The college observatory is one of the best in America, and furnishes the standard time for the Minnesota railroads. Warner & Swasey, of Cleveland (Ohio) designed and built the 16-foot equato rial telescope, the 30-foot steel dome, and also the 17-foot steel dome. The Sidereal Messenger, a monthly maga zine of astronomy, is published here. The Bishop- Seabury Mission, at Faribault, is the outgrowth of a parish school founded by Rev. Dr. J. L. Breck, in 1858, and includes the Seabury Divinity School, serves the pur- Agri- MINNEAPOLIS : THE MASONIC TEMPLE. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 429 . V~;TO - C - trf-i-TO I "wmg^^ MINNEAPOLIS : STONE ARCH BRIDGE OF THE GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY. with eight instructors and 30 students in holy orders. The Shattuck School, founded in 1868, as * grammar-school, is named for Dr. G. C. Shattuck, of Boston, one of the chief benefac tors of the Faribault Episcopal institutions. It is one of the best training-schools for boys, and has several costly stone buildings, and a beauti ful memorial chapel, in a park of 150 acres on the high bluff overlooking the Cannon Valley. The Bishop of Minnesota is chancellor of the school. The students are uniformed like West- Point cadets, and form a battalion of four companies and an artillery platoon, commanded by a regular-army officer. St. -Mary's Hall is another Episcopal institution, occupying a com manding estate of ten acres near Faribault, with the buildings of a well-sustained training- school for girls. The Albert-Lea College for girls is a successful Presbyterian institution on the shores of the beautiful Fountain Lake, 1,300 feet above the sea. St. -Olaf's School, of the Norwegian Lutherans, occupies a beautiful estate of five acres, on Manitou Heights, near Northfield. The Presbyterians conduct Macalester College, at St. Paul, with 25 collegiate students ; and the Methodists have for nearly 40 years supported Hamline University, near St. Paul, which has 50 collegiates. The Benedictine monks maintain St. -John's University, at Collegeville, with 1 8 instructors and 151 students. There is also an ecclesiastical depart ment here, with 35 students. The Lutheran Augsburg Seminary is at Minneapolis ; and the Norwegian Evangelical Lutheran Seminary is at Red Wing. Minnesota also has several medical schools and colleges of pharmacy, dentistry and veterinary science. • Religion is strongly entrenched among the Minnesotans, whose North-European and New- yl'f} England settlers brought their bible and rituals to these virgin prairies. The Lutherans and Catho- northfield ; carleton-colleoe observatory. Hcs each claim more than I0O]0o0 adherents ; the Methodists have 300 churches and 25,000 members ; and the Baptists, Presbyterians, Epis copalians and Congregationalists have from 6,000 to 10,000 members each. Newspapers. — Nine days after the news of the existence of the Territory of Minne sota had been received here, James M. Goodhue, an Amherst graduate, landed at St. Paul with a printing-press, and began the issue of the Pioneer April 28, 1849. At that time Minnesota had fewer than 5,000 inhabiants, of whom 840 lived at St. Paul. Among the great newspapers of the northwest, whose enthusi astic and untiring work has done so much toward the develop ment of Minnesota, none stands higher than the Minneapolis Tribune. This journal issues morning and evening, weekly and Sunday editions, from its stately new building, erected in 1890. Its expenses are nearly $1,000 a day; and the employes number 210 in the building, and 300 correspondents. The capital stock of $500,000 is held by Ex-U. S. Senator Gilbert A. Pierce, for four years Governor of Dakota, and editor-in-chief of the Chicago Inter-Ocean for seven years ; and W. J. Murphy. Pierce is the editor, and Murphy the manager. The Tribune Company owns both the Associated-Press and United-Press franchises for Min neapolis. This is the only high-tariff paper in the Northwest, J C 1-1 J-i r . T- r~, ¦ , , MINNEAPOLIS I and fights sturdily for protection. There is hardly a hamlet the Minneapolis tribune 43° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MINNEAPOLIS I GUARANTY LOAN BUILDING. 'NORTHWESTERN MILLER" OFFICE. between Lake Michigan and the Rocky Mountains which has not its Tribune correspondent, always eager to send the fullest and most accurate local news to the high-towered headquarters at Minneapolis. It has probably the best constituencies that can be obtained in its section of the United States. The foremost flour-manufacturing city in the world is also the seat of the chief journal of the milling business, The Northwestern Miller, founded in 1873, as a monthly magazine, and changed soon after to a weekly. Nine years later it passed into the hands of C. M. Palmer, who associated with himself W. C. Edgar as business manager. Thenceforward the paper rapidly outstripped all the other flour trade-journals, and- won a high repute for honesty of purpose and independence of character, with a great and unique influence, and a circulation in all countries where flour is made or sold. It is regarded as an authority among millers ; and does a yearly business equal to that of all the other American milling journals combined. Its holiday numbers have a world-wide celebrity, for typo graphical beauty and intrinsic value, and contain special con tributions from many of the best-known writers. The success of the paper is largely due to its holding itself as the champion of its readers, and not the paid retainer of its ad vertisers ; and this independence, so uncommon in trade- journals, is re-enforced by great editorial ability and vigil ance. Its exquisite advertising pages often indicate how admirably high art can be used to advantage by its patrons. The A'ation says that St. Paul is "for at least one intel lectual purpose, the capital of the United Sta^s " ; and that purpose is the continuous and current publication of the de cisions of the National and State courts of law, opening to the bar of each commonwealth a compendious knowledge of the jurisprudence of the whole country. This great work is in the hands of the West Publishing Company, founded in 1876 by the two brothers, John B. and Horatio D. West, as a progressive law-book house, and incorporated in 1882. The capital is $350,000 ; the employes number 400 ; and the plant includes a huge and massive new eight-story brick building at St. Paul, containing com plete printing and book-binding establishments and plate-vaults. This is the home of the National-Reporter system, consisting of ten separate publications (published in weekly parts, immediately after the filing of the decisions), one to the United-States Supreme Court, one to the other Federal courts, seven to the decisions of the higher courts in the various sections of the Republic, and one to the intermediate courts of New-York State. These always fresh reports are given in law book form, from official copies, with all necessary editorial work, and copious annotations, and correlated by careful indexes and ;v.» digests. They include about 15,000 judicial decisions yearly, SS. c°vering all American case-law, bringing every new precedent promptly before bench and bar, and thus tending to secure a greater harmony and unity in American jurisprudence. The West Publishing Company of St. Paul are to-day the largest law-publishers in the world, and their reports form an essential part of every American lawyer's library, and an invaluable treasury of modern jurisprudence. ST. PAUL : THE WEST PUBLISHING CO. MINNEAPOLIS : CITY HALL. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 431 Chief Cities. — The metropolitan centre of the Northwest is at the dual cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis. St. Paul, at the head of navigation on the Mississippi, num bered 20,000 inhabitants in 1870; and Minneapolis and St. Anthony, river from each other, had respectively 13,000 and 5,000 inhabitants. After ery of the "new process" of making flour, which made Minnesota wheat valuable in the world, St. -Anthony's Falls were lined with huge mills, and Minneapolis had 46,887 people, to 41,473 in St. Paul. By 1885, the , 111,397, and Minneapolis kept forging ahead, with 129,200. The twin cities have grown towards each other until they have practically joined, and their united population finds but half a dozen larger municipalities in America. In their churches and schools, public institutions and commercial buildings, dwellings and stores, they compare favorably with any cities on the continent ; and their system of parks is one of the largest and most attractive in the world. St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, stands on a series of terraces over the Mississippi River, and is the focus of immense railway systems, extending in every direction, and the centre of a tre- Minneapolis : chamber of commerce. mendous wholesale and retail trade. Beautiful in situations and surroundings, and blest with an invigorating climate, this northern capital has drawn to its gates an enterprising and cultivated population. The manufacturing output of St. Paul amounts to $52,000,000 a year. The meat-packing and slaughtering business of the city exceeds $10,000,000 yearly. It has large distilleries, and many diversified industries, with numerous important firms in the wholesale and jobbing business. St. Paul was named in honor of the Apostle of Nations, by Father Gaultier, a French Catholic priest, who erected a little log church here in 1841. The group of bark-thatched log-huts near this site had previously been known as Pig's Eye, from a one-eyed Canadian rum-seller, who came here in 1 838. Among the imposing edifices of St. Paul are the State House, the high-tow ered City Hall, the first-class building of the Pioneer-Press and Globe newspapers, and the New-York Life- insurance Company's headquarters. From time to time St. Paul celebrates the advent of its northern winter by a wonderful ice- carnival; constructing a huge palace of ice, with towers and tur rets and bastions, illuminated at night by electric lights, and surrounded by thousands of people in brilliant blanket-costumes of red and white, blue and yellow. Toboggan and snow-shoe clubs make merry through the long January evenings ; and, finally, the great castle of ice is stormed 'by torch-bearing columns of these gaily uniformed organizations, and the Ice-King yields to the Fire-King. Minneapolis occupies both sides of the Mississippi, the east side being the site of the older St. Anthony. Three thousand men work in the railroad shops, 2, 500 in the iron works, and 15,000 in other manufacturing industries. The great lumber-mills have made over 340,000,000 feet of lumber in a year. The Falls of St. Anthony (named by Father 6T. PAUL AND THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, FROM DAYTON'S BLUFF. 43 2 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. |ffi««ta|Hf|M|5 SRESIwiiSflPiij' S-to ; ^^^^si ^¦™«W??bSS3S£3 MINNEAPOLIS : NEW-YORK LIFE-INSURANCE CO. Hennepin, in 1680, for St. Anthony of Padua) have a descent of 25 feet, with 57 feet more in the rapids above. The Miss issippi here flows over ledges of limestone, resting on crumb ling sandstone : and in order to prevent the destruction of the falls by erosion, a costly inclined plane (or apron) of timber has been built, with a concrete bed under the channel. The first settler in this region came in the winter of 1849-50. The name of the city is a remarkable compound of the Sioux word Minne, " Water, " and the Greek work polls, "city." Among its notable constructions are the Court House and City Hall, being erected at a cost of $2, 500,000, and adorned with a noble Gothic tower ; the West Hotel, the Masonic Temple, the New- York Life-insurance Company's building, the wonderful curv ing arched bridge of masonry across the Mississippi, the hand some fire -proof Public Library and Art Museum, of red sand stone; and the fine bridge across the Mississippi River, built in 1888 by the Keystone Bridge Company (who also constructed the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railway bridge at St. Paul). Minneapolis is the great flour-making city of the world, with more than a score of mills, whose capacity is 38, 000 barrels a day. The Red-River wheat is here converted into the finest flour anywhere to be found, and its chief market is in Europe, over 300 miles of laden freight-cars leaving the city every year. In a single year Minne apolis has received 5,000,000 bushels of wheat, being a greater quantity than that which went to Chicago, Duluth or New York. The product of flour has exceeded 7,000,000 barrels in a year. The entire American pro duct is 85,000,000 barrels a year, valued at $400,000,000 ; and it may be that this is the foremost industry of the Republic. The Pillsbury-Washburn Flour Mills Com pany, Limited, is an English corporation, formed in 1889, with a capital of ^1,000,000, and with its financial headquarters in Lon don. It succeeded to the business of C. A. Pillsbury & Co., and the Washburn Mill Com pany, and controls the Minneapolis Mill Com pany, the St. -Anthony Falls Water-power Company, the Minneapolis & Northern Elevator Company, and the Atlantic Elevator Company. The plant includes the Pillsbury A and B, Palisade, Anchor and Lincoln Mills, three large elevators in Minneapolis, 200 country elevators, and all the water-power at Minneapolis. Employment is given to 1,200 men; and the yearly capacity is 4,000,000 barrels of flour, 176,000,000 pounds of bran, 45,000,000 pounds of middlings, and 35,000,000 pounds of screenings. The mills grind every year 17,000,000 bushels of spring wheat ; and the Pillsbury A mill has the greatest capacity of any flour-mill in the world, reaching 7, 200 barrels a day. The five mills have a capacity of 14,500 barrels a day, and 300 cars are required daily to take wheat in to them, and to remove the flour and waste. For these properties was paid $6,250,000, three fourths in cash, and the rest in securities. Charles. A. Pillsbury is the managing director of this colossal system, whose well-known brand of "Pillsbury's Best" flour is a favorite with housewives every - ST. PAUL: where. This is the largest milling plant in the world, and its pro- new-york life-insurance co. duct is sold wherever flour is used. MINNEAPOLIS : PILLSBURY-WASHBURN FLOUR MILLS. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 433 MINNEAPOLIS : THE WASHBURN-CROSBY COMPANY THE "WASHBURN" FLOURING MILLS. Much of the best patent spring- wheat flour in the world is made by the Washburn-Crosby Company, occupying and operating the great mills founded in 1866, at Minneapolis, by Cad- wallader C. Washburn, ex-Governor of Wiscon sin. The plant is one of the largest in the world, and includes three mills and two elevators, with ten acres of floor space, where 500 men and a great quantity of ingenious machinery reduce the wheat of Minnesota and the Dakotas to flour, by the French high grinding process and the Hun garian roller process. The capital paid in is $1,500,000; and the daily capacity of the Washburn A, B and C mills is 9,000 barrels of the finest and best flour. The Washburn A mill is said to be the largest in the world, and occupies the site of the mill destroyed in 1878, when 18 lives were lost, and six mills destroyed, by an explosion of flour-dust. The new mill is one of the strongest and best appointed in America, and has a dust-house absolutely safe from explosions. The Washburn-Crosby Company's representative brands (Washburn's Superlative and Washburn's Gold Medal flour) command higher prices than any other brands in the market, and are sold all over the world. The famous house of F. H. Peavey & Co. , wholesale grain merchants, was founded at Sioux City, Iowa, in 1874, by Frank H. Peavey, and now employs 435 men. It ranks in volume of business at the head of all the American firms in this line, and has risen with great rapidity to this commanding place. The assets exceed $1,000,000. The total elevator stor age capacity actually owned or directly controlled is 10,000,000 bushels, and includes the great terminal elevators at Minneapolis, Kansas City (Mo. ), Washburn (Wis.), and Portland (Ore.), besides 200 country eleva tors along the railways leading to those points. Their Interior Elevators at Minneapolis, with a capacity of 1,500,000 bushels, are among the largest in the State, and their Duluth Elevator Com pany's system of connected elevators at West Superior (Wis.), with a capacity of 5,000,000 bushels, is the largest of its kind in the world. The house buys all kinds of grain direct from the farmers in nine States, and carries it on margin, or sells it in large or small quantities, for domestic or foreign use. In 1891 the company opened an elevator at Rich field (Vt. ), from which to supply New England with wheat, corn and oats. By such scientific system the golden harvests of the Northwest are concentrated and moved, and finally reach the hungry consumers. In the long-ago days of 1858, when G. W. Van Dusen began buying wheat in Wiscon sin, the grain was handled entirely in sacks, and shipped upon flat-cars. Following the Western movement of the trade, Van Dusen located in 1865 at Rochester, Minn., then at the end of the Chicago & Northwestern line ; and as the railway was extended westward he built at the new stations elevators for handling grain in bulk. G. W. Van Dusen & Co. now operate 90 country elevators, buying grain from farmers, and selling it to millers or grain-dealers for future deliv ery. They also control the Star Elevator Com pany, whose elevator at Minneapolis has a capacity of 1,800,000 bushels, and stores the grain for grain- i.n top .. ,.„ dealers, millers and others. In 1888 the stock of MINNEAPOLIS I INTERIOR ELEVATORS, F. H. 434 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. DULUTH AND ITS HARBOR, AND LAKE SUPERIOR. the two companies was sold to a English syndicate, and the headquarters are now in Lon don ; Geo. W. Van Dusen serving as president and general manager of the two companies. At the various elevators 300 men are employed, mainly between Winona (Minn.) and Pierre (S. D.); and G. W. Van Dusen & Co., with its capital of $900,000, ranks as one of the foremost grain-dealing firms in America. Duluth, "the Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas," occupies a wonderful strategic posi tion, where the Great Lakes reach their westernmost point, and the railways from the rich prairie States converge, bearing enormous freights to this head of navigation. It has an extensive system of deep-water harbors, reached by a ship-canal 1,500 feet long and 300 feet wide, with a depth of 25 feet, and bordered by immense elevators, warehouses and coal-docks. Its receipts rival those of Chicago. So powerful and efficient is the machinery in use on these piers, that a steamer has been loaded with 15,000 bushels of wheat in 2j hours. Wheat began to come to Duluth in 1871, and more than 2,000 vessels enter and leave the port yearly, bringing over 1 , 500, 000 tons of coal, and carrying away 3,500,000 barrels of flour. The elevator capacity is 21,000,000 bushels of wheat, and the yearly receipts and shipments are about 30,000,000 bushels. The royal water-route eastward from Duluth is an outlet for enormous quantities of .merchandise of many kinds. Latterly a number of quaint steel "whale-back" vessels have been built here, for the navigation of the lakes. Among the other cities is New Ulm, settled by Germans, and hotly besieged by the Sioux in 1862; St. Peter, on its picturesque terraces over the Minnesota River ; Mankato, a prosperous manufacturing town, where the Blue-Earth River enters the Minnesota ; and Winona, a great wheat-mart, and the chief city of southern Minnesota, in a beautiful situation on level lowlands under the Mississippi bluffs, with wide and pleasant streets, busy factories, and excellent schools and churches. Faribault is famous for its great Episcopal schools ; Fergus Falls, on the Red River, for flouring-mills and other manufactories ; Red Wing, for its wheat trade ; Northfield, for farm-lands and colleges ; St. Cloud, on the Miss issippi, for manufacturing and country-trade ; and Stillwater, for its general trade, and its pleasant situation on Lake St. Croix. The Finances of Minnesota naturally find their concentrating points at Minneapolis and St. Paul. The former has recently been made a banking reserve point, and has a banking capital of $9,000,000, and deposits of $26,- 000,000. One of the foremost financial institutions of the Northwest is the First National Bank of Minneapo lis, which was organized in 1863 by the Sidles, then well-known bankers and millers of Minnesota ; and the Sidle family now occupy the positions of president, cashier and assistant cashier. The directorate includes a number of the strongest men in the State. The busi ness has proved to be large and successful, and the deposits reach nearly $5,000,000. The paid-in capital is $1,000,000 ; and the surplus and undivided profits are over $400,000. This is the oldest bank of Minneapo- minneapolis : first national bank. i;S) and ;n several particulars is the largest in Minne sota ; and its operations extend over a great area of the northwestern country, where it has active correspondents in many cities. THE STATE OF MINNESOTA. 435 if ffil p , w fefei ($¦->¦¦ -¦ - fm (jjjjffllSJ SaBH ^JiWrj! nr | e^BH MINNEAPOLIS I MINNESOTA LOAN & TRUST CO. The Minnesota Loan & Trust Company, the foremost trust company of the Northwest, organized in 1883 by Eugene A. Merrill and Edmund J. Phelps, occupies its own imposing fire proof building, erected at Minneapolis in 1884-6, and has a capital of $500,000, with a surplus and undivided profits of $175,000. It transacts the same lines of business as the New York and Philadelphia trust-companies, having the care of estates, and acting as guardian, executor, and trustee under wills, and as a nego- ciator of mortgage-loans for Eastern financial institutions. Such corporations have the advantages of perpetuity, and comparative freedom from the fluctuations of fortune, and insure a more efficient and economical administration of trusts than individuals can attain to. This company has a successful deposit department, and large safe-deposit vaults ; and its business has developed on all sides rapidly and solidly. It is required bylaw to keep on deposit with the State Auditor $100,000, in approved securities. It has handled loans on real estate to a large extent, and has important connections with the leading financial institutions of the East. Duluth in her rapid and solid growth has given rise to a number of financial institutions : including three National banks, three State banks, a savings-bank, and two trust companies, having a total capital of $2,500,000. One of these banks is par ticularly worthy of notice, the American Exchange Bank of Du luth, with a capital of $325,000, and a surplus of an almost equal amount ; its stock selling at the highest figures of any bank in northern Minnesota. Its deposits exceed $1,000,000 and its gross assets approach $2,000,000. It occupies the main floor in the Exchange Building, a handsome structure on the main thor oughfare. The American Exchange Bank was established in 1872 as a savings-bank, with a capital of $25,000, and reorganized in 1879 as a State bank. Its capital has been increased several times, and now reaches $500,000. It is the oldest bank in Duluth, and moreover is the oldest incorporated bank at the head of the chain of great lakes. Its officers and directors are among the best known citizens, its president being H. M. Peyton, and its cashier, James C. Hunter. A. R. Macfarlane who was instrumental in its original organization in 1872 has ever since been connected with It does a large general banking business and also an extensive amount in collections ; banks and business houses throughout the country making use of the American Exchange Bank for collections in this section. It has been uninterruptedly suc cessful from the start, always paying yearly dividends of ten per cent. The Railway system of Minnesota began its operations in 1857, when the Minnesota & Pacific line received its charter; and the first train was run in June, 1862, over the ten miles of the St. -Paul & Pacific route, between St. Paul and St. Anthony. By 1864 it reached Elk River; by 1867, Lake Minnetonka; by 1870, Benson ; and by 187 1 it entered Breckenridge, 217 miles from St. Paul, on the Red River of the North. The Northern Pacific line was chartered in 1864, and reached Moorhead on the Red River in 1 87 1. In 1872 trains began to run on the St. Paul & Chicago line, to Winona and La Crosse. The Minnesota Valley line incorporated in 1S64, reached Shakopee in 1865 and Le Sueur in 1867. DULUTH : AMERICAN EXCHANGE BANK. it, and is now manager. Hi I! lb-*- UM1M5JJLM1 JLElJJiiliBBfai! ST. PAUL : GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY GENERAL OFFICES. 436 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The principal thoroughfare of Minnesota is the Great Northern Railway Line, part of which is the former St. -Paul, Minneapolis & Manitoba. The railway history of this State, particularly that of St. Paul and Minneapolis, begins with this road, it being the first to HOTEL LAFAYETTE. enter (J^ Twjn Q^^ ]tnow binds them together with four tracks, over which it runs from 80 to 100 trains a day from magnificent Union Depots. On its various lines in Minnesota are to be found some of the most delightful pleasure and fishing resorts in America, including Lake Minnetonka, with Hotel Lafayette, the largest summer house in the West. Indeed, every station in the Park Region is the centre for countless lakes. Its real growth began a little over ten years ago, when President James J. Hill assumed active management. Its lines now radiate in all directions westward of St. Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth and West Superior ; and at Puget Sound will touch the tides of the Pacific and connect its waters with the Atlantic by a route via Lake Superior (and also via St. Paul), the shortest by 250 miles of any trans-continental line. The Great Northern is not only the shortest line, but its average grade is the easiest of any in the West. It is built along the only parallel across the Continent possible of continu ous settlement, through a veritable empire of agricultural, grazing, mineral and timber lands. This proud achievement was consummated without Government subsidy or local aid. The Great Northern is the principal carrier of original wheat in the world, delivering every year tens of thousands of cars to Lake-Superior ports for shipment abroad, and to the flour-mills of Minneapolis, St. Paul and Duluth. It not only hauls out the wheat of the Red-River Valley and the Dakotas, to the mills, and the corn of Iowa and Nebraska to the vessels of Lake Superior, but it is the artery through which flow the products of the ranges, mines and forests of Montana, Idaho, Washington and Oregon, its direct traffic covering a region larger than the original area of the United States. The dairy business in the gra'ss counties of southern Minnesota has largely supplanted high prosperity. This mack, who in 188 1 The outgrowth of this wheat-culture, bringing to thousands of farmers a is largely due to Charles E. Marvin and E. A. Cam- founded the creamery business, in Rochester, Minn. enterprise (still under the same management) is the Crescent Creamery Company, with a capital of $300,000, and probably the largest concern of the kind in America, conducting 30 establishments, with large plants in Minnesota at St. Paul and Rochester, and in Washington and Tacoma on the Pacific Coast. The company buys the milk from 150,000 cows, and its yearly sales reach $2,000,000, including much of the milk used in St. Paul and Minneapolis, millions of eggs, and enormous quan tities of butter and cheese. Butter is made from cream extracted at the shipping stations by the centrifugal process ; churned by the dry granular process, in numerous revolving churns, each yielding about 400 pounds; worked into individual squares, cloth-bound two-pound blocks, rolls, firkins and in boxes; and then stored in a temperature of 330, and shipped in refrigerator cars all over the Union, and to the Pacific Coast and Europe. The high quality of the goods bearing the Crescent Company's brand has been the main cause of the remarkable success. ST. PAUL : CRESCENT CREAMERY COMPANY. 539. 7°3 According to tradition, the ancient inhabitants of Mississippi were the Ala bama and Muscogee In dians, fleeing from Cortez in Mexico. They had hardly become accustomed to the land of their exile when De Soto's army of hidalgoes, men-at-arms and monks entered their territory, and win tered in Pontotoc County. After suffering the loss of 50 soldiers in a night attack by the Chickasaws, De Soto stormed the Indian town of Alibamo, on the Tallahatchie River, at the close of a hot and murderous battle. Even after the Spanish army had turned southward from Arkan sas, to retreat by boats to the Gulf, the gallant Mississip- pians attacked their flotilla all along the river, in fleets of canoes, and inflicted serious losses upon them. More than a century passed before Marquette and Joliet (in 1673) visited these shores, passing from Quebec up to the Great Lakes, and descending the Wisconsin and Miss issippi. They were kindly received by the Chickasaws, and abode with them many days. Nine years later La Salle followed the same route, and visited the Natchez In dians, taking possession of the country in the name of France ; and not long afterward a brave priest established a Catholic mission among the Tunicas. In 1699, an expe dition sent out by Louis XIV. , composed of 200 French- Canadians, and headed by Iberville and Bienville, occupied Ship and Cat Islands, and erected a fort at Biloxi. Later, they laid out the town of Rosalie, on the site of Natchez. A settlement arose here in 17 16; and 13 years afterward the Indians massacred 200 of its citizens, and carried 500 into captivity. French and Choctaw armies marched against the Natchez tribe, and in a series of arduous campaigns entirely destroyed it, killing the bravest warriors, and sending hundreds of others to San Domingo, as slaves. The Chickasaws dwelt in northern Mississippi, and repulsed two campaigns of Bienville. In Fort Rosalie. . . 1716 Frenchmen. 1817 791.30.1 827,922 • 1,131.597 . 1,122,31" 9,209 567,177 564,420 Settled at . . Settled in . . Founded by . . . Admitted as a State, Population in i860, 1870, In 1880, American-born, Foreign-born, . Males, . ... Females, In 1800 (U. S. Census), White, . . Colored, 747,72o Population to the square mile, 24.4 Voting Population (1880), . 238,532 Vote for Harrison (1888), 30,096 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 85,471 Net State Debt, . 83,246,183.57 Real Property, . $87,000,000 Personal Property, . . $35,000,000 Area (square miles), . . 46,810 U. S. Representatives, 7 Militia (Disciplined), Counties, . . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . . Vessels, Tonnage Manufactures (yearly) Operatives,Yearly Wages, . . Farm Land (in acres), Farm-Land Values, Farm Products (yearK) $63,701. .. Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . I93.H9 Newspapers, . ... 155 Latitude, . . 3o°i3' to 35° N. Longitude, 88°7' to 9I°4I' W. Temperature 3° to 1010 Mean Temperature (Jackson), 64" TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. 1,53' 75 1,304 2,266 191 11,074 S7,495.8o2 5,827 $1,192,645 15,883,251 $92,844,915 Vicksburg (1890), . 13.373 Brookhaven, - 12,572 . 10,624 Meridian (1893), Natchez {1890), . . 10,101 Greenville (estimated), 8,000 Columbus, 6,000 Aberdeen, " 4,000 Grenada. . 2,800 Yazoo City, 2,542 Bay St. Louis, " 2, 500 438 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. 1736 he led 550 French and Swiss soldiers and 600 Choctaws in boats up the Tombigbee River, to Cotton-Gin Port, and marched against Ackia, where the Chickasaws defeated the allies with terrible loss. At the same time D'Artaguette and 130 French soldiers, and many Miami and Iroquois Indians, advanced from Illinois to Chickasaw Bluffs and Pontotoc, and there suffered defeat at the hands of the Chickasaws, the commander, with his priest and 16 other officers and soldiers, being burned at the stake. In 1752 the Marquis de Vaudreuil was beaten by the same indomitable tribe, and threw his artillery into the river at Cotton- Gin Port, where cannon have since been found. Most of Mississippi was included in the vast cession of territory made by France to Eng land by the Treaty of Paris, in 1 763, and belonged to the Province of Illinois. The British province of West Florida at first included the region south of 3 1 ° ; and afterwards the region south of the latitude of the mouth of the Yazoo. Willing's American detachment suffered a repulse at Natchez in 1778, and the Tory inhabitants rebuilt old Fort Panmure, and held it for England. In 1779 Don Bernardo de Galvez captured Natchez, at the head of a force of Spanish infantry and American volunteers. After the Spaniards had held Mississippi for three years, Alston, Lyman, Phelps and other New-England and Carolinian immigrants and royalists bombarded and captured Natchez and then, assailed by the Spaniards, retreated to Savannah in a five-months' march across the country, suffering terrible losses and hard ships. When West Florida was confirmed to Spain by treaty, and the United States occupied the eastern side of the Mississippi Valley down thus far, the two powers debated for years as to whether their fron tiers lay at 31 °, orthe Yazoo. Spain yielded, in 1798, and Congress formed the disputed territory, extend ing from the Mississippi to the Chattahoochee, into the Mississippi Territory. In 1800 the present State lay in several jurisdictions ; from the Gulf to 31°, in Spanish Louisiana ; from 3 1 ° to the parallel of the Yazoo, in Mississippi Territory ; and from the Yazoo northward nearly to Tennessee, in Georgia. Con gress bought out the claims of Georgia in the West in 1802, and added the domain to the South-Carolina cession, naming the whole the Territory South of the River Ohio, and in 1804 adding it to Mississippi Territory. The region south of 310 was annexed to the United States by the Louisiana Purchase. In 1812 this coast-strip became a part of Mississippi Territory, which included also Alabama. The latter was set apart five years later, leaving Mississippi with her present boundaries. The Choctaws of the south and the Chickasaws of the north were deported across the Mississippi River in 1832-4, and then a great influx of immigration occupied their deserted fields. Mississippi was one of the first States to attempt secession, and as early as January, 1861, planted artillery at Vicksburg to command the river. Late in 1861 United-States naval expeditions captured Biloxi and Ship Island. In 1862 Beauregard's Confederates yielded Corinth to Halleck's National troops, after a long siege ; and in October Gens. Price and Van Dorn assailed the town with 35,000 Confederates, and were terribly defeated by Rose- crans, sacrificing 9,000 men. At Iuka the two armies lost 1,000 men each. Vicksburg, on its high bluffs, was the key of the Mississippi, and bristled with fortifications and cannon, which foiled Farragut, in June, and Sherman in December, 1862. In April, 1863, Grant crossed the river at Bruinsburg ; captured Grand Gulf and Jackson ; defeated Pemberton's 25,000 troops at Champion Hills ; and on July 4th received the surrender of Vicksburg, with 27,000 soldiers. In this campaign, which practically ended the war in Mississippi, Grant lost 8,000 men, and the Confederates lost 9,000. In 1865 Mississippi repealed the ordinance A COTTON GIN. WH1TW0RTH : A COTTON FIELD. THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 43g of secession, and abolished slavery. It adopted a new con stitution in 1869 ; and ill 1870, having ratified the 14th and 15th Amendments, its representatives were admitted to Congress. The property valuation was lowered between i860 and 1870, by the war and the liberation of the slaves, from $607,324,911 to $209,197,345, It adopted a new constitution on November 1, 1890. The Name of the State signifies "Great River." It is an Algonquin compound word, originally spelled Mech/ Se~be, changed by the Chevalier Tonty to Miche Sepe, by Pere Laval to Michisepe, by Pere Labatt to Misisipi, and by Mar quette to Mississipi. The popular names of Mississippi are The Bayou State, and The Border-Eagle State. The Arms of Mississippi bear an American eagle, with outspread wings, holding arrows in one talon and an olive branch in the other, on a round silver field. The Governors of Mississippi have been : Territorial: Winthrop Sargent, 1 798-1 801 ; Wm. C. C. Claiborne, 1801-5 ; Robert Williams, 1805-9 ; David Holmes, 1809-17. State : David Holmes, 1817-19, and 1825-7; Geo. Poindexter, 1819-21 ; Walter Leake, 1822-5; Gerard C. Brandon, 1827-31 ; Abram M. Scott, 1832-3 ; Hiram G. Runnels, 1834-5 ; Chas. Lynch, 1835-7; Alex. G. McNutt, 1838-41; Tilghman M. Tucker, 1842-3; Albert G. Brown, 1844-8; Jos. W. Matthews, 1848-49; John A. Quitman, 1850-1 ; John I. Guion (acting), 1851 ; Jas. Whitefield (acting), 1851-2; Henry S. Foote, 1852-4; John J. McRae, 1854-7; Wm. McWillie, 1858-9; John J. Pettus, 1860-3; Chas. Clarke, 1864-5; Wm. L- Sharkey (appointed), 1865-6; Benj. G. Humphreys, 1866-70; Adelbert Ames (appointed), 1868-70; Jas. I. Alcorn, 1870; R. C. Powers (acting), 1870-4; Adelbert Ames, 1874-6; John Marshall Stone (acting), 1876-7 ; John M. Stone, 1878-81 ; Robert Lowry, 1882-9 ; and John M. Stone, 1890-2. Descriptive. — The Mississippi lowlands cover 7,460 square miles, and the remaining five sixths of the State are divided between rolling and level uplands, with smooth prairies in the northeast. The streams descend gradually, and their valleys are bordered by hum mocks or second bottoms, while in their lower reaches they often flood the country for miles. The elevation of the uplands varies from 150 to 800 feet, and they fall away very gradually to the south and southwest. The extreme south contains extensive marshes and immeasurable pineries. The Yazoo Delta, a g ellipsoid, 160 miles long, is one of the most fertile districts in vast valley of the Mississippi. It lies between Vicksburg Tennessee, covering 6, 250 square miles, with swamps and lakes, bayous and prairies and great woods. The cultivated lands lie on the low ridges and along the lakes and rivers, the rest being cane-brakes and cypress-swamps. The Delta would lie deep under water every spring but for the levees, protecting part of these wonderfully fertile lands. The two levee districts have efficient boards of commissioners to build and guard the levees, raising the funds by a lax on each bale of cotton. The gray and white clays of the northeast and the region of long-leaf pine are unproductive ; but the rest of Mississippi is of remarkable fertility, and half of it remains unused. No part of the 90 miles of Mississippi coast lies on the Gulf of Mexico, whose waves beat along a range of low islands from ten to 30 miles off-shore. Five light -houses rise from these lonely sand-bars. Ship Island is a low bank of white sand, seven miles long, with groves at its eastern end, and on the west the best harbor of the Mississippi coast. This was the headquarters of the West-Gulf Blockading Squadron and of Gen. Butler's army, before the capture of Pensacola and New Orleans. Inside the islands lies the placid PPI COLLEGE. 44° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PASS CHRISTIAN 1 A STREET SCENE. Mississippi Sound, in places deep enough for large ships, and bordered by low bluffs of shining white sand. The shallow harbors of Mississippi City, Biloxi and Bay St. Louis are mainly occupied by summer-resorts, among the water-oaks and live-oaks, magnolias and cedars, with the solemn pines on one side and the opalescent waters of the Sound on the other. Pass Christian is a favorite pleasure-resort, with a fine hotel, two hours from New Orleans and three hours from Mobile. Ancient Biloxi rambles over a sea-fronting line of sand-hills, with shell-roads leading inland ; and is a happy haven for sufferers from consump tion and asthma. In the summer great excursion-parties from New Orleans crowd its hotels and restaurants, and go fishing among the shadowy islands off-shore. The oysters and oranges of Biloxi are equally celebrated for their flavors, and the place has canneries for oysters and shrimp. The waters out side abound in red-fish, black-fish, red snappers, pom- pano, Spanish mackerel, sheepshead, trout, and other food-fish. Ocean Springs, half a mile from the sea- beach, is a resort much visited by the people of New Orleans and Mobile, who can enjoy in the same hour fine salt-water bathing and the medicinal virtues of saline-chalybeate waters. Mississippi also has several popular inland pleasure-resorts. Cooper's Well is one of the 30 chief American springs described in the Encyclopedia Bri- tannica, where it ranks as an n-on water, beneficial for dyspepsia, dropsy, anaemia and other diseases. Castalian Springs pours out red sulphur waters, strongly charged with carbonic- acid gas and sulphuretted hydrogen. Brown's Wells, in Copiah County, are noted for their curative properties. The Mississippi River flows along the western frontier, held in its channel by immense and costly levees. The Tennessee River forms the northwestern frontier for ten miles. The chief affluent of the Mississippi from this State is the Yazoo River, formed by the con fluence of the Yalobusha and Tallahatchie, and flowing 264 miles southwest to the great river, seven miles above Vicksburg. It is navigable throughout, and has a fleet of ten steamboats, with a yearly commerce of $3,500,000, including over 50,000 bales of cotton. The Tallahatchie has a yearly commerce of $1,500,000 in cotton, supporting nine steam boats, running up 100 miles to Sharkey's Landing, and sometimes to Coldwater, 165 miles. The Yalobusha has been ascended by steamboats to Grenada. Tchula Lake is a bayou of the Yazoo, 67 miles long, and sending out yearly 14,000 bales of cotton on its four steam boats. The Big Black River, 400 miles long, enters the Mississippi at Grand Gulf. The Pearl River has had several Government parties at work for many years, from its mouth to Jackson (310 miles) and Edinburgh (440 miles), and the yearly commerce now amounts to $1,600,000, employing eleven steamboats. The Tombigbee River flows off into Alabama, the head of winter-navigation being at Aberdeen, and at favorable seasons steamboats may reach Fulton. Steamers ascend the Noxubee to Macon, 91 J miles. The Pascagoula River is navigable 85 miles to the confluence of the Leaf and the Chicasaha, for light vessels. The Geology of Mississippi shows a small sub-carboniferous district -in the northeast, succeeded by Cretaceous formations. Half of the State is Tertiary, lying between the Cre taceous and the Mississippi bottoms, and to within 20 miles of the Gulf. Although con tiguous to the rich metalliferous States of Alabama and Tennessee, Mississippi has no mines, and her limestones and sandstones, marls and fire-clays, have but little economic value. The Climate is almost sub- tropical, especially along the Gulf, where the freezing-point is rarely reached. The summer season extends from May 1st to October 1st, with the thermometer from 61° ,,„,,., ,,..,,,-,,,, THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 441 to 950 (with a mean of 8l°); but the heat is tem pered by variable winds, especially those from the Gulf. The mean annual temperature of the Gulf towns is 68° ; of Vicksburg, 650 ; of the north, 6i°. The rainfall varies from 65 inches on the seaboard to 60 inches in the north, and mostly occurs in win ter and spring. The death-rate, 13 yearly in 1,000, is less than those of New York, Massachusetts, Vir- columbus : girls' industrial ins. and college. ginia, and Pennsylvania. The mortality of the whites is only 10 in 1,000. Lung and throat diseases and catarrh never originate here, and are relieved when brought hither. Diphtheria is almost unknown; and the yellow fever has not entered the State since 1878. Agriculture is pre-eminently the industry of Mississippi, whose responsive soil and stim ulating climate yield a great profusion and variety of the fruits of the earth. More than four fifths of the working population are in farming pursuits. The great plantations have given way to small farms, the 43,000 estates enumerated in i860 having become 125,000 in 1890. There are 1,000,000 acres of Government land, mostly in the long-leaf-pine region towards the Gulf; and the railways also have large tracts for sale, at low prices. The cotton crop of i860 reached 1,200,000 bales, but the next five battle-years caused the product to fall off greatly. By 1880 it had reached 960,000 bales, worth $43,000,000, and the State stood foremost of all in this product. It is now second to Texas. One third of this great wealth-making crop is produced by white men's labor, mainly in the upland counties, where the climate is salubrious ; and the rest by negroes, mainly in the Delta ; 28,000,000 bushels of cotton-seed are harvested each year. The corn-crop is about 25,000,000 bushels. Mississippi also yields yearly 3,500,000 bushels of oats, 2,000,000 of rice, 700,000 of potatoes, and 500,000 of wheat. Figs, oranges, and Scuppernong grapes grow along the Gulf Coast ; blackberries overrun the wild lands everywhere ; and straw berries and melons and other fruits and vegetables are sent to the cities. Over 1,200 car-loads have been shipped North on one railway, in a single season. The planters long waged war on ' ' General Green," as they called the grasses; but the un profitableness of exclusive cotton-culture has turned their attention to pasturage. The valuable Bermuda grass yields five tons of hay to the acre ; Japan clover has spread over the State with mar vellous rapidity ; and crab-grass and broom-sedge also afford very good forage. The yearly hay-crop is 60,000 tons. The live-stock includes 104,000 mules, 99,000 horses, 1,636,000 hogs, 440,000 cattle, and 200,000 sheep. Here are the largest dairying interests in the Gulf States ; and many herds of valuable Jersey, Short-Horn and Holstein cattle. Forests cover three fifths of Mississippi, and include oak, red cedar, black walnut, poplar, cottonwood, tupelo and other trees. The long-leafed yellow-pine fills most of the country south of the Meridian-Vicksburg line. The pine-woods alone are valued at $250,000,000. The cypress and cane of the swamps ; the chestnut and walnut, beech and hickory of the bluffs ; the red gum of the Yazoo ; all have an economic value. Government. — The governor and six executive officers are elected for four years. The legislature of 45 four-years' senators and 133 four-years' representatives, includes a number of colored members. The three Supreme-Court justices, nine circuit judges and twelve chancellors l village there, in 1764, for the headquarters of Maxent, Laclede & Cie. Many French families exiled themselves from Illinois when that province passed into English hands ; and under the benign laws of Spain they dwelt along the Missouri shore, trading in furs with the northwestern Indians, and farming along the rich bottom-lands. In 1780 the British governor at Michilimackinac sent 150 soldiers and 1,500 Indian allies to attack the little Spanish capital, but they succeeded only in killing and capturing a few score people, without occupying the town. After this (Panne'e du coup) St. Louis girded herself with stockades, bastions and martello towers; and Don Eugenio Pourre (in 1781) struck back at the invaders by successfully leading 65 Spanish and French soldiers and a force of Indians against Fort St. Joseph, in the Michigan country. The Spanish lieutenant-governors resi dent at St. Louis were Don Pedro Piernas (1770-5), Fran cisco Cruzat (1775-8 and 1780-8), Don Ferdinando Leyda (1778-80,) Don Manuel Perez (1788-93), Zenon Trudeau (1793-8), and Delassus. Daniel Boone, the pioneer of Kentucky, became a Spanish subject in Missouri in 1797, and was made Syndic of the Femme-Osage district. In 1769 Blanchette founded St. Charles, as a STATISTICS. Settled at . St. Genevieve. Settled in 1755 Voting Population. Vote for Harrison (i£ Vote for Cleveland (1 Net State Debt, . . Heal Property, . , . Personal Property, Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, . . . . Post-offices Railroads (miles), . Vessels, Tonnage, .... Manufactures (yearly) Operatives, Yearly Wages, . 'Farm Land (in acres), Farm-Land Values, Farm Products (yearly) $95,912,660 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 370,977 Newspapers, , . . . 756 Latitude, . 360 to 4003o' N. Longitude, 8g°2/ to 95°44' W. Temperature, . . . — 220 to 106° Mean Temperature (St. Louis), 550 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). 541,207 236,257261,974 S8.439.749- 20 £553,000,000 §289,000,000 69,415 14 1,507 H5 2,4075.924 241 ¦ 135.853 8165,384,005 ¦ 63,995 . S24.309.7i6 . 28,177,990 .$373,633,307 Si. Louis, Kansas City St. Joseph, Springfield, Sedalia, . Hannibal, Toplin, Moberly, Jefferson City Carthage, ¦ 45i.77o . 132,716 52,324 . 21,850 . 14,06812,857 9,9438,21^7,6007,500 444 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. CATHEDRAL SPIRES AND MERAMEC RIVER. military post ; and a Spanish fort rose at New Madrid in 1 786. In March, 1804, Don Carlos Dehault Delassus transferred Upper Louisiana to Capt. Amos Stoddard, U. S. A., who brought a de tachment of troops across from Illinois, receiving the province in the name of France, and assuming it the next day for the Ameri can Government. The Louisiana Purchase made by the United States from Napoleon in 1803 included Missouri, which for a time lay in the District of Louisiana, afterwards the Territory of Louisiana. The Territory of Missouri, founded in 181 2, covered Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, western Minnesota, the Indian Territory, Dakota, Nebraska, and most of Kansas, Colorado and Wyoming. It parted with Arkansas in 1819. In 182 1, after the State of Missouri came into being, the Territory of Missouri covered the remainder of the former Territory, until 1834, when it became obsolete. Cote sans Dessein (now Barkersville) and the American colony on Loutre Island were in 1807 the Far West of all white men's settlements. In 1810, 150 Kentucky families set tled about Franklin, in Howard County, where a number of them were killed by the Indians. In 1808 Chouteau and Lewis effected a treaty with the Osages, pushing back their frontier to Fort Clark, above Lexington, and gaining millions of acres for settlement. Then, and after the War of 1812, thousands of immigrants poured in from Kentucky, Tennessee and the Carolinas. The application of Missouri to be admitted to the Union, in 1818, was followed by a long period of angry discussion, the Northern States being sternly opposed to the creation of another slave-holding commonwealth, while the Southern people maintained that since slavery had always existed in Missouri under the French and Spanish govern ments, it could not legally be abolished. Finally, the famous Missouri Compromise went into effect, bringing the new State into the Union with her existing social system, but excluding slavery from all the rest of the Louisiana Purchase north of 360 30'. The Platte Purchase, which included Platte, Buchanan, Andrew, Nodaway, Holt and Atchison counties, was acquired from the Sacs and Foxes in 1836-7, and annexed to Missouri, with the consent of Congress. It covers a large area in the northwestern portion of the State. The first steamboat in Missouri waters was the Enter prise, in 1S15 ; the first to reach St. Louis was the Gen. Pike, in 1817 ; the first to ascend the Missouri was the Inde pendence, which reached Franklin and Chariton in 1819. The First and Fourth companies of the Second Missouri Volunteers fought in the Seminole War, in Florida, and de feated the savages in a bloody battle at Okeechobee Lake. The chief events of the following years were the deadly visita tions of the Asiatic cholera, in 1832, 1838, 1839, and 1849; the receptions to Lafayette (in 1825) and Daniel Webster (in 1837); and the settlement of the Mormons at Independ ence and Far West, in 1831-4, and their forcible eviction from the State. When the Mexican War broke out, three Missouri regiments under Kearney marched along the Santa Fe trail, 900 miles, in 50 days, and changed New Mexico from a Mexican province to an American Territory. Then these brave Missouri troopers rode through Chihuahua, ST. LOUIS I THE MERCHANTS' BRIDGE. THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 44S ST. LOUIS STATUES : MBOLDT — COLUMBUS—SHAKESPEARE — BENTON winning several battles, and down to the Gulf of Mexico. At the outbreak of the late Secession War, the governor endeavored to lead Missouri into the company of disloyal States, and a part of the General Assembly (not a quo rum) declared "the ties heretofore existing between Mis souri and the United States of America, dissolved." But the people remained faithful to the Stars and Stripes, and elected a convention (by 80,000 majority) which voted heavily against Secession, and declared the Governor and General Assembly to be deposed. Governor Jackson thereupon proclaimed the State to be "a sovereign, free and independent Republic," and large Confederate armies assembled in the southwest, marching up from Arkansas and Texas. With four regiments of loyal Missourians, Lyon broke up the, encampment of neutral State troops at St. Louis ; occupied Jefferson City and Boonville ; and pressed the disloyal forces into the Ozark Mountains. He then marched against the enemy in the South, and was killed at Wilson's Creek, where his 5,400 troops were defeated by 12,000 Confederates, in a terrible six-hours' battle. When 1862 opened, the Southerners held nearly half Missouri, but Gen. Curtis and 12,000 Federals drove them into Arkansas, and inflicted a crushing defeat at Pea Ridge. During the war, army after army of Confederate troops invaded Missouri, endeavoring to conquer the State, and so possess also the great regions of Kansas, New Mexico, and Arizona. Bands of guerillas, jayhawkers and bush- , whackers roamed up and down the country, de stroying vast amounts of property, and carrying on a horrible warfare. In 1864 Gen. Price made a foray across the State from the southeast to Jeffer son City, Independence and Lexington, and was hurled back by National armies, with heavy loss. Gen. Pope and Commodore Foote in 1862 reduced the Confederate forts at New Madrid and Island No. 10, after some hard fighting, capturing three generals, 7,000 men, 158 cannon and eight steamboats. Among other local events of the con flict were the Confederate siege and capture of Lexington, with its garrison of 3,000 men ; Zagonyi's picturesque cavalry charge at Springfield ; Grant's bloody fight at Belmont ; Ewing's defence of Pilot Knob; and the massacre of Johnson's Federal command at Cen tralia. Missouri contributed 108,777 soldiers to the National Army, and 30,000 to the Confederate army, or 60 per cent, of its men subject to military duty. Of these 27,000 died in the two services. This was the only Slave State voluntarily to abolish human slavery, which was done early in 1865, by a convention elected by 30,000 majority. Lincoln's Procla mation of Emancipation did not apply to this State, and of her own accord she freed her 114,000 negroes, valued at $40,000,000. After the war, Missouri repealed her stringent emer gency legislation ; declared a general amnesty ; and became a liberal Democratic State. She has since grown in wealth, population and power, with phenomenal rapidity, and stands among the foremost commonwealths of the mighty West, sibley bridge ; Missouri river, IRON MOUNTAIN. 446 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED . rsSg^TO ?7'.-f TES. -¦ ¦ -':.'/' «*L^$%Sk sggPL". The Name Missouri means Big Muddy {Missui, or Missi, Algonquin for "Big," and Souri or Shozhay, Dakota for " Muddy"), and was applied by the Indians to the river which still bears it, pour ing down in the springtime laden with the yellow mud of thousands of miles of prairie. Grand Old Missouri is an appellation which Gov. Francis used in his campaign speeches. It used to be called Tlie Iron-AIountain State, and also The Bullion State, and had, furthermore, a ribald name, now happily heard no more. The people of Pike County were among the most indomitable pioneers of the Far West, crossing the Plains in ark-like wagons with their families. They were called ' ' Pikes. ' ' The Arms of Missouri were adopted in 1822, and consist* of a grizzly bear passant gardant IU-;! ..-*(; PILOT KNOB. proper ; on the arms of FOREST PARK. a chief engrailed azure, a. crescent argent; on the sinister side argent, the United States; the whole within a band inscribed United we Stand, Divided we Fall. The crest is a full-faced grated helmet, supporting a cloud, with a star above, and 23 smaller stars. The supporters are two white or grizzly bears of Missouri rampant gardant proper. The motto is Salus Populi Suprema Lex Esto, "Let the Welfare of the People be the Supreme Law. " The Governors of Missouri were : Territorial: Banj. Howard, 1812-6; Wm. Clark, 1816-20. State: Alex. McNair, 1820-4; Frederick Bates, 1824-5; John Miller, 1825-32; Daniel Dunklin, 1832-6; Lilburn W. Boggs, 1836-40; Thos. Reynolds, 1840-4; John C. Edwards, 53 ; Sterling Price, 1853-7 > Trusten Polk, 1857 ; Robert M. Stewart, 1857-61 ; Claiborne F. Jackson, 1861 ; Hamilton R. Gamble (provisional), 1861-4; Thos. C. Fletcher, 1864-8; Jas. W. McClurg, 1868-71; B. Gratz Brown, 1871-3 ; Silas Woodson, 1873-5 ! Charles H. Hardin, 1875-7; John S. Phelps, 1877-81; Thos. T. Crittenden, 1881-5; John S. Marmaduke, 1885-9 ; David R. Francis, 1889-93. Descriptive. — Missouri is one of the most diversified of the Western States, as to soil, products, climate, and surface, and extends through 4£ degree; of latitude. The elevation of the land varies from 287 feet, in the southeast, to 3,000 feet at Cassville. The noble Mississippi River forms its eastern frontier, and the Missouri borders it for a long way on the west. A line drawn from Hannibal to the southwestern corner of Missouri separates the prairie region, on the north and west, from the forest region, on the east and south. North of the Missouri is a region of broken 4-8; Austin A. King, 18 LOUIS : FOUR COURTS. land, with for- pied by wide prolongation of LOUIS : POST-OFFICE. ests in the east and along the great rivers, and the rest occu- rolling prairies, well-watered and productive, and in effect a the plains of Illinois and Iowa. Similar high grassy plateaus run west from the Ozark Mountains, and from the Mississippi to the Big Black. South of the Missouri the forests of the east are offset by these open prairies of the west, with large rivers, like the Osage and Gas conade, running northeast into the Missouri. Theundu- lating and fertile lowlands of the southeast, with their swamps and deep woods and large flat hills, are rich and productive, with a semi-tropical climate, adapted for raising cotton and tobacco, wheat and corn, The THE STATE OF MISSOURI 447 ST. LOUIS I COURT-HOUSE. swamp counties are six in number, with parts of four others ; and cover 3,000 square miles. The rapid clearing away of the forests has opened here a produc tive farming country, only a part of which is liable to inundation. In the extreme southeast, about New Madrid, occurred the great earthquake of 1811-12, lasting for several months, the earth rising and fall ing in great undulations, hills sinking, lakes opening, and vast fissures and rents in the earth ejecting mud and smoke. On the day of the earthquake that destroyed Caracas, in South America, these phenomena ceased. The Ozark Mountains run from the Missouri River, east of the Osage, southwest into Arkansas and Kansas, changing from isolated hills and knobs to the high and arable table lands of the West. Another ridge runs southeast from the Ozarks to the Mississippi, and follows the river, in high bluffs, from the Meramec to Ste. Genevieve. This line of high lands includes many bold knobs, rising from 500 to 1,000 feet, like Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain. The delightful Arcadia Valley, near Shepherd's Mountain, has the summer- cottages of many St. -Louis families. A large part of the State was originally covered with woodlands, oaks and elms, hicko- ories and maples in the north, huge cypresses and syca- amores, cottonwoods and gum-trees in the south, with scattered forests of red cedars and pines, pecans and persimmons. Great quantities of hardwood lumber are cut every year ; and the saw-mills of Canton and Hanni bal manufacture millions of feet of pine lumber from Wisconsin and Minnesota logs. The south counties contain immeasureable forests of yellow pine and live-oak. Northern Missouri is watered by the Chariton, Grand, Platte and other streams flowing to the Missouri ; and the Cuivre, Salt, Fabius, and other Mississippi tributa ries. From the Kansas to the Mississippi the Missouri River runs east 436 miles, a broad, deep and turbid stream, with bottoms of light, deep and incredibly rich soil. The Missouri and Mississippi afford highways for a vast steamboat commerce, and are continually under improvement by United-States Engineers, with snag-boats and working parties. The Osage River is a noble stream, flowing from Kansas to the Missouri River, navigated by several steamboats to Tuscumbia (60 miles) and sometimes as far as Warsaw (170 miles). It has a yearly commerce of $600,000 in railway ties, rafts of oak and wal nut logs, and steamboat freights. The Gasconade enters the Missouri below the Osage, and is navigated by three small steamboats, as far up as Arlington, the chief shipments being railway ties and wheat. The Lamine is another navigable affluent of the Missouri. The Meramec and St. Francis reach the Mississippi, and the St. -Francis, Black, White, and other Arkansas rivers have their upper waters in southern Missouri. There are scores of interesting caverns in Missouri, miles in length, with hidden streams and lakes, and vast halls and corridors, enriched with brilliant stalactites. The regions about Hannibal, Springfield and Rolla abound in these hidden halls, cutting far under the founda tions of the hills. In the south there are many mam moth springs, bursting from the ground with great force, and pouring their crystal floods down to the winding eJ_ UQU|5 . SHAW,S GARD£N> KANSAS CITV : SOUTHWESTERN ELEVATOR. F. H. PEAVEY A CO. 'S SYSTEM. 443 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. rivers. Sweet Springs, midway between Kansas City and Jefferson City, is the most fashionable watering-place in Mis souri, with several valuable saline and sulphur springs, huge baths of salt water, and a hotel and cottage's amid velvety lawns and a park of forest-trees, 500 feet above St. Louis, and near the Black- Water River. Pertle Springs, in the same region, has the large Minnewawa Hotel and many summer- cottages. The Windsor Spring, with its calcic waters ; the Sulphur Springs ; and the famous Montesano Springs are in the region of the Meramec. El-Dorado Springs, down in the southwest, are a group of chalybeate waters, with large hotels. Excelsior Springs, northeast of Kansas City, are famous for their efficacy in healing rheumatism and dyspepsia and other chronic diseases. The Chouteau, Monagaw, Cheltenham and Elk waters are sulphurous. The Climate is full of extremes, being devoid of moderating sea-air or sheltering hill- ranges. It is dry, owing to the rapid evaporation ; and the sky is usually clear and bright. The least rain falls in April. The Missouri often remains frozen all winter ; the Mississippi sometimes closes at St. Louis for many days. Some winters fail to reach zero ; others reach 200. The summer temperature averages 78. 50 in the southeast, and 730 in the north west. The annual temperature of most of the region north of the Missouri is 480; of the lagoon country in the southeast, 6o°; of the rest of the State, 560. The summers are long and warm, the winters usually short and mild. Agriculture. — This State ranks third in the value of its farm products. The chief crops ST, JOSEPH : CITY HALL. are corn (in 20,000,000; is controlled 1,800, 000 verge of the KANSAS CITY \ COURT HOUSE. the northwest) 219,000,000 bushels yearly ; oats, 36,000,000 ; wheat, and potatoes, 6,000,000. The Southwestern Elevator at Kansas City by F. H. Peavey & Co. , of Minneapolis and elsewhere. More than tons of hay are produced, largely in the northwest ; and at the other State, on the great St. -Francis bottoms, 20,000 bales of cotton are raised yearly. Missouri holds the seventh rank in tobacco, with a crop of 13,000,000 pounds, mostly from the Missouri-River counties. Rye and barley, sorghum and hemp are also, abundantly produced. Red and white clover, timothy, red top, and the rich blue-grass grow abundantly, and since 1885 larger and larger areas have been devoted to grass- culture. Missouri is a capital fruit State, with the apple and pear, plum and cherry mingling with the fig and nectarine, apricots and the rarest grapes, delicious peaches of the Ozarks, the apples of the Platte Purchase, the Gasconade grapes, and the Jasper strawberries. In the produc tion of red and white wines, Missouri stands second only to California. Missouri ranks as first among the States in the number of its mules, and second in cattle. The plebeian stock of the early days is being replaced by fine blooded animals, greatly increasing the value of the flocks and herds. The horses and mules number 950,000; and the cattle, 2,200,000. There are 1,300,000 sheep, mostly in the south, with its mild climate and fine grasses. Hogs num ber 3,200,000. There are lucrative dairies in the north, which also has a large product of eggs. St. Louis still holds the primacy in the American fur-trade, receiving $2,000,000 worth of peltries st. lquis ; manual training schqql, THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 449 COLUMBIA I UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI. yearly. In the remote hills a few elk still linger, with deer, bears, wolves, cougars, and wild cats. Along the streams dwell the mink, the otter, and the beaver. The birds of Mis souri are of great value, from wild turkeys and pigeons, grouse and quail, to ducks and wild geese, herons and cranes, and the melo dious thrushes and mocking-birds. The riv ers abound with catfish, buffalo fish, black bass, perch, pike, suckers and sunfish. Mining. — The Missouri iron-fields contain inexhaustible supplies of red and brown hematites, red oxides, specular iron, and clay iron stone, excelling any other ores in quality. Iron Mountain is a low, irregular hill, covering 500 acres, capped by a vein of hard specular ore, from six to 30 feet thick, and yielding 68 per cent, of pure iron. Below occur great deposits of porphyry, filled with a network of small veins of ore, which is continually being exposed and freed by the crumbling of the rock. It is not a mountain of iron, as generally supposed. This field was opened in 1845, and now has an enormous output, having already yielded above 5,000,000 tons. It is 80 miles south of St. Louis ; and in the same region rises the picturesque Pilot Knob, a huge mound of 600 feet high, containing a bed of bluish-gray iron-ore, from twelve to 30 feet thick, and yielding above 50 per cent, of strong, tough and fibrous iron. Shepherd Mountain has vast areas of uniform magnetic and specular ore, free from sulphur or phosphorus. Scotia Iron Banks and Iron Ridge are great beds of soft red herma- tites, containing masses of specular ore. The Missouri Iron Company runs the valuable mines in Crawford and Dent Counties. There are other iron deposits in various localities ; and the abundance of smelting coal and fluxes in Missouri gives great advantages to iron-workers. There are nearly a score of blast-furnaces in the State. Lead is found in great quantities, especially in the magnesian limestone, in the centre, southeast and south west. The long-drawn caverns of Washington County had millions of pounds adhering to their roofs and sides. Half the product of Missouri comes from Jasper and Newton Coun ties, where lines of stacks extend for miles, and many furnaces are in active operation. Thousands of tons are shipped from Granby and Joplin, where the metal comes to the very surface of the ground. The product has exceeded 60,000,000 pounds in a single year. Missouri is the foremost State in the production of zinc, yielding 12,500 tons yearly, from the mines in the far southwest, with great furnaces at Joplin and Carondelet, near St. Louis. Copper has been mined for many years, in carbonates and sulphurets, but the vast output of the Michigan region has closed the Missouri mines. There are several nickel-mines in the State. Bituminous and cannel coals underlie 26,000 square miles of Missouri, being a continuation of the Iowa coal-measures through the north and across the Missouri River, and between the Grand and Osage Rivers. The chief mining region is in St. -Louis County, with seams one to seven feet thick, producing good smelting and engine coals. The Osage coal-pockets are anomalous masses of fine bituminous coal, 20 to 80 feet thick, in the ST. louis : ' . ' st.-louis university and st.-xavier church, ravines along the Osage. Missouri produces. ST. LOUI8 : HIGH SCHOOL. 45° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LOUIS : MERCANTILE LIBRARY. 900,000 tons of coal yearly. She has also great quarries of brown, red and buff sandstone ; white, red and colored marble ; hydraulic lime and cement, slate and limestone, gypsum and grindstones. Fully 10,000,000 pounds of barytes are quarried yearly. The fire and potters' clays and kaolin employ many brickyards and potteries ; and the fine sand derived from its saccharoidal limestone has made this the second State in the production of plate- glass. Onyx is found in the Ozark Mountains. Government. — The governor and six executive offi cers are elected by the people, for four years. The legis lature includes 34 four-year senators and 143 two-year representatives. The Judiciary includes the Supreme Court, with five justices; the St. -Louis and Kansas-City Courts of Appeal ; 30 circuit courts ; and ten municipal courts. The State Capitol at Jefferson City was built in 1838-40, of Missouri stone, at a cost of $350,000. New wings were added in 1887-88. The great leader in the foundation of Missouri, and one of her first and ablest senators and editors, was Thomas Hart Benton (born in North Carolina in 1782, and died at Washington in 1858), the advocate of favorable land-laws, and the overland traffic routes. The National Guard of Missouri consists of two regiments, the First Infantry, of St. Louis, the Third Infantry, of Kansas City, 14 unattached infantry companies, a battalion of cadets, two light bat teries, and a troop of cavalry. The Penitentiary, at Jefferson City, has over 1,600 inmates, most of whom are kept at work by contractors. The Reform School for Boys is at Boonville ; the Industrial School for Girls is at Chillicothe. The latter is on the cottage plan, with 50 in each family. The State Asylums for the insane are at Fulton, St. Joseph, and Nevada, and con tain 1,200 patients. The School for the Blind, at St. Louis,, accommodates nearly 90. The institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb at Fulton has 300 inmates under its instruction. Jefferson Barracks, just below St. Louis, is one of the most important recruiting stations of the United-States army. The great National Cemetery near the Barracks contains the graves of 11,637 soldiers. There are similar cemeteries at Jefferson City (812 graves) and Springfield (1,614). Education is maintained by school funds of $11,000,000, school-property valued at $9,000,000, and a yearly outlay of $5,000,000. Every district must have free schools for white and colored pupils, with graded and high schools in the cities. The State Normal Schools are at Kirksville, Warrensburg, Cape Girardeau, and Jefferson City (the latter being for colored pupils), and have 1,800 students. The University of the State of Missouri, at Columbia, was opened in 1840, and has ST. LOUIS : MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 27 professors and 620 the medical school, 20. students, partly women. The law school has 60 students, and The University's School of Mines and Metallurgy is at Rolla. The University has connected with it the land- grant Agricul tural College, with a veteri nary labora tory, horticul- ST. L0U18 : THE FAIR GROUNDS. THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 45' KANSAS CITY GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT. LOUIS: EXPOSITION ErJILDING. tural gardens, and a productive farm. St. -Louis University is an ^ important Jesuit institution, dating from 1829, and with 34 instructors and 228 I students, besides 207 m the commercial and preparatory schools. In 1S88 the in- i stitution moved from its old home, in the heart of the city, to a line of new build- Kk ings in early dec orated English Gothic architecture, on Grand Avenue. The [&§k. College of Chris tian Brothers is at St. Louis ; and St. Vincent's College is at Cape Girardeau. Washington University at St. Louis was in corporated in 1853, and includes the college and poly technic school (1870), the St. -Louis Law-School (1867), the Henry-Shaw School of Botany, and the St. -Louis School' of Fine Arts. In all its depart ments, Washington Uni versity has 104 professors and instructors, and an average of 1,450 students. The second ary schools, the classical Smith Academy (founded in 1854), Mary Institute for girls (1859), and the manual training school (1879) nave I>°°° students. The aims of Wash ington University are similar to those of the great Eastern universities, and it stands as the Harvard of the West. Drury College is a Congregational institution, at Spring field, with 165 students and a library of 20,000 volumes. Westminster College (Presbyterian) is at Fulton. The northeastern part of Missouri contains the Christian University, at Canton, and La-Grange College (Baptist), at La Grange, on the Mississippi. The Bap tists also have Wil- *|s!vSS|l liam-Jewell College, at Liberty, and Grand- River College, at Ed- inburg ; and one at Bolivar, on the south west. The Methodists have colleges at Warrenton, Glasgow, Fay ette, and Morrisville. There are 40 other small colleges, and 50 academies and seminaries. Concordia College, the Lutheran theo logical seminary at St. Louis, has a handsome new Gothic building ; and there are Evan gelical, Methodist, and Catholic divinity schools, with 700 students. The chief libraries are the Public (60,000 volumes), Mercantile (65,000), Law (15,000), St. -Louis University (25,000), and Academy of Science (10,000), at St. Louis; the State Library (18,000), at Jefferson City; the Kansas-City Public Library (12,000); and the State University (13,000). The Newspapers of Missouri number 756, or a greater number than Massachusetts or California has. In this re gard Missouri is the seventh State. The St. -Louis Globe- Democrat is the leading newspaper of the Mississippi Valley, enjoying a circulation unequalled by any other daily paper published west of the Alleghany Mountains. Its principal field is Missouri, Illinois, Kansas, Arkansas, Texas, and Col orado, with an extensive circulation in all the Western and Southwestern States ; and even on the Pacific Slope it may be found for sale at all newsdealers. It is par-excellence a gigan tic news-journal, and pays more money for telegraphic reports and correspondence than any newspaper in the United States, ST. -louis globe-democrat. as the statistics of the telegraph companies show. The Mis- 452 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KANSAS CITY I THE NEW WINNER BRIDGE. souri Democrat, founded in 1852, and The Globe, started in 1872, were con solidated under the name of the Globe- Democrat va. 1875. Since then it has largely increased in circulation and influence throughout the West, North west and Southwest. The main pro prietors since 1875 nave been the late William McKee, and the present president, Daniel M. Houser ; both of whose names rank among the preeminently successful newspaper-men of this country. Joseph B. "McCullagh, for many years the managing editor, ranks as the peer of any editor of his time. The company has erected for its occupancy, in the fall of 1891, a superb eight-story stone building, which is among the finest newspaper structures in the country, in every way adapted to its business, and furnished with the latest machinery in the way of lighting, heating, and elevators. Enormous lightning-speed presses of the latest patterns are used, as also the new type-setting machines. The metropolis of western Missouri has its own morning and evening newspaper in the Kansas-City Times, whose issues also go throughout Missouri, Kansas, and the Indian Territory. This widely-known journal began its career in IS and three years later it came under the management of Dr. Morrison Mun- ford, who still owns more than three fourths of its stock. Under his strong and energetic administration, the Kansas-City Times has been repeatedly enlarged and newly dressed, and has risen from a local paper of small circulation to a commanding position in the West and Southwest ; in fact, one of the notable dailies of the United States, with an immense and profitable circulation and advertising patronage. It advocates the interests of the West, in season and out of season, and with conspicuous editorial ability. The Kansas-City conven tion of 1888, whose delegates at Washington did so much to secure the opening of Oklahoma for white men, was called by the Times, which has always been an earnest advocate of settling the Indian Ter ritory as an American State. The Times occupies its own building, built for its own use, at the "Junction" of three main thoroughfares. In its own important locality it is the foremost daily newspaper. Chief Cities. — St. Louis is admirably situated on the Mississippi, not far from the inflowing of the Missouri and the Illinois, and hence occupies a remarkable stragetic posi tion with regard to the great rivers of the continent. It covers 40,000 acres, with a river front of 19 miles, and rises in some localities 200 feet above the Mississippi. The 22 rail ways converging at St. Louis, and her immense river-navigation have given her control of the trade of the Mississippi Valley and the Southwest. St. Louis is also one of the fore most cotton-centres, the receipts reaching 600,000 bales a year. The clearing-house business exceeds $1,000,000,000 yearly; 15,000,000 tons of freight are received and forwarded yearly; 2,000,000 barrels of flour are made yearly in the city mills ; 315,000,000 pounds of hog-products are exported; 21,000,000 pounds of wool, and 2,000,000 head of live-stock are received. The tugs can each tow 10,000 tons of freight (or enough to fill 13 freight trains of 40 cars each) from St. Louis to New Orleans (1,241 miles) in seven days, which is about the time of an ordinary louis : American biscuit & mfg. co. freight-train. In 1889 428,000 tons of bulk grain KANSAS CITY \ KANSAS CITY " TIMES. ' THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 453 and 78,000 tons of other freight were sent to New Orleans in this way. Each year 940 steamboats leave St. Louis for the Lower Mississippi, 800 for the Upper Mississippi, 175 for the Missouri, 125 for the Illinois, 150 for the Cumberland and Tennessee. There are 2,000 men making 100,000 stoves and ranges yearly. St. Louis has 30 shoe-factories, making nearly $7,000,000 worth of goods. In the vicinity of the city are the beautiful Tower-Grove and Forest Parks (276 and 1,370 acres), embellished with statues and fountains. The Missouri Botanical (Shaw's) Garden is. rich in flowers, native and exotic. The St. -Louis Bridge, crossing the Mississippi, was designed by James B. Eads, and built in 1869-73, at a cost of $10,000,000 (including the tunnel). It is one of the noblest triumphs of. American engineering skill, and includes four ribbed-steel arches, resting on immense stone piers, the rise of the arches being 60 feet, to allow steamboats to pass under neath. The central span is 520 feet, and the side spans 500 feet each. The upper story has carriage and foot-ways ; the lower story, a double-track railway. The steel-work on this vast structure was furnished by the Keystone Bridge Co., of Pittsburgh, which also built the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. -Paul Railroad bridge near Kan sas City. The Merchants' Bridge was built across the Missis sippi in 1889-90, at a cost of $6,000,000. It is x\ miles north of the Eads Bridge and 2,420 feet long. - One of the finest office structures of St. Louis is the Houser Building, on the corner of Broadway and Chestnut Street. It is seven stories high, with walls of stone and brick, floor-beams of steel, and floors and partitions of tiles, thus making an edifice proof against any danger of fire. The interior finish is of Wis consin red oak, with marble-paved halls, heavy bronze hard ware, and abundant light on all sides. Hydraulic elevators give easy access to the offices, with cars of wrought iron work. This handsome structure was erected in 1889-90 by Daniel M. Houser, senior proprietor of the St. Louis Globe- Democrat. Kansas City at the first was the muddy little river-landing for Westport, and grovelled under its clay bluffs, frequented mainly by border raiders. In 1865 it had only about 3,500 inhabitants; but the advent of the Missouri Pacific Railway and the grand western march of the American people, tenfolded its population during the next five years, and it now claims to be the gateway of Kansas, with its level lands crowded with tracks and cars, and the largest meat-packing houses in the world. The Kansas-City Bridge and Terminal Railway is one of the colossal enterprises con ceived and being carried through by the Winner Investment Company, involving an outlay of $1,500,000, the results being a magnificent railway bridge across the Missouri River, to be used by several of the Southwestern lines, and 30 miles of Terminal Railway, con necting all the routes entering the city. This great triumph of mechanical art was constructed by the Keystone Bridge Works, of Pittsburgh. The Winner Investment Company is also expending $1,000,000 in the erection of the Grand Central Depot, at the southern end of the bridge, to receive the new railways which cannot find room in the old Union Station. The Winner Building, now being erected by the Winner Investment Com pany, will be an imposing eight-story fire-proof struc ture of great area, in the centrp of the financial quarter of Kansas City, for the use of banks and offices. This will be one of the largest and finest office buildings in the United States, affording a safe and luxurious home for many of the great financial institutions and corpor ations of the Southwest, and a headquarters for many of its professional men. LOUIS I THE HOUSER BUILDING. KANSAS CITY : WINNER BUILDING. 454 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KANSAS CITY I MIDLAND HOTEL. The foremost home for travellers in Kansas City is the famous Midland Hotel, opened in 1889, and one of the best hotels in this country. It covers an entire block, in the most central part of the city, near the post-office, stores and theatres. The walls are of pressed brick and terra-cotta ; the floors and partitions of hollow terra-cotta blocks ; the interior finish, of English oak and white marble ; and the main stairway, of marble and iron. The building is fire-proof, heated by steam, lighted by hundreds of electric lights, ventilated by exhaust ventilators, and traversed by four swift hydraulic elevators, and liberally enriched with cathedral glass, Honduras mahogany, Mexi can onyx, Reed & Barton silverware, Wilton carpetsk French-plate glass, Egyptian red marbles, oaken wains coting and other artistic beauties. On the ground floor is a great exchange, or central court, running from street to street, and giving entrance to a variety of convenient stores. Among the notable departments are the billiard-room, 100 by 45 feet, with Persian rugs on its marble floor, Lincrusta-Walton on the walls, and oaken beams overhead ; the bar-room, whose crystal and silver are flashed back by huge French- plate mirrors, over the long bar of red Egyptian marble ; the Elizabethan writing-room, with high English oak wainscots and huge fire-place ; the baths, Turkish, Russian, electric, sulphur, or any other kind, with a marble-cased swimming-pool 30 by 60 feet in area ; the bridal suite, hung with primrose and blue China silk, and made bril liant by golden cobwebs ; and the grand dining-room, on the seventh story, and overlooking the city and the Missouri River. The Midland is owned by the Midland Hotel Company. It is in keeping with the many grand public and private structures of Kansas City, and is admirably conducted. St. Joseph, on the Missouri, in the northwestern part of the State, has stock-yards covering 440 acres, a jobbing trade of $150,000,000 a year, and large factories. Hannibal is an important Mississippi-River port and railway-centre, with large shipping and manufacturing interests. Sedalia is one of the large central cities, a nest of factories and convergence of railways, surrounded by rich farm ing lands. Springfield, far to the south, is like Sedalia. Jeffer son City has an agreeable situation on the Missouri, near the centre of the State. Among the other Missouri cities are Bonne Terre, among the southeastern lead-mines ; Boonville, sur rounded by vineyards and mines, on the Missouri ; Carthage, the metropolis of the southwest; Chillicothe, the trade-centre of the Grand-River country ; Fulton, the chief town of one of the rich central stock-raising counties ; Joplin, a busy mining town in the Ozarks ; Moberly, with great railroad shops ; and St. Charles, with coal-mines and car-works. Finances. — The bonded debt has dropped from $17,- 000,000 in 1880 to less than $9,000,000 in 1890, showing a highly favorable condition of financial management in the councils of the State. The National Bank of Commerce in St. Louis was organized in 1857 as a State bank, and reorganized in 1889 as a National Bank. During the 33 years of its existence as a State Bank, it paid an average of 1 1 per cent, cash dividends to its stock holders; and in the reorganization paid them also $400 for each $100 of capital paid in. ST. LOUIS : EQUITABLE BUILDING. GENERAL OF FICES MISSOURI PACIFIC RAILROAD. KANSA8 CITY : NEW ENGLAND MUTUAL LIFE- INSURANCE CO. THE STATE OF MISSOURI. This capital is now $3,000,000, with undivided profits and surplus amounting to $500,000. The loans and discounts exceed $8,000,- 000, and the deposits exceed $10,000,000. The National Bank of Commerce has the largest financial business in the Southwest, and its operations cover many of the fast-growing States in that rich and promising region. There is but one bank west of New York (the First National, of Chicago), which carries so extensive a business, 8r has such a large line of loans and discounts. W. H. Thompson, the President, and J. C. Van Blarcom, the Cashier, are recognized as among the ablest and most conservative finan ciers of the West, and .the institution which they have created ranks among the powerful developing forces of the State of Mis souri and the neighboring commonwealths. Kansas City is the financial capital of a large region, and its foremost monetary institution is the National Bank of Commerce, which, with the exception of the bank of the same name in St. Louis, is the largest financial institution in the State of Missouri. When Kansas City was a little river-town of 5,000 people, in 1865, national bank of commerce. the Kansas-City Savings-Association came into existence, under careful but enterprising con trol as a commercial bank (and not specially for savings). Its capital gradually rose to $50,000, and in 1882 was increased to $200,000, when the name also underwent a change, and the Bank of Commerce came into being. For the next five years this institution paid its stockholders 6 per cent, semi-annual dividends, and then gave them $3,000 for every $1,000 of original investment. In 1887 this pros perous corporation was succeeded by the National Bank of Commerce, with $2,000,000 capital, on which it easily earns its 10 per cent, yearly dividends, besides accumulating a surplus. The President, W. S. Woods, and the Cashier, C. J. White, occupied the same positions in the Kansas-City Savings-Association and the succeeding banks. The deposits in" the National Bank of Commerce average $6,000,000. It has one of the largest clientages of country-banks in the Union, and thus enjoys unusual facilities for collections. The bank occupies it handsome building, of attractive and appropriate architecture. One of the foremost insurance corporations in the West is the American Central Insurance Company, which has grown to its com manding proportions under the able executive administration of George T. Cram, to whom its marked success may be fairly credited. It was founded at St. Louis, in 1853, and since that date has paid more than $6,000,000 in losses. The cash capital is $600,000, with a net surplus of nearly $400,000. The stock is largely held by leading business men of St. Louis, and the assets of $1,500,000 are in the best of United-States and Missouri stocks and bonds and real estate. The system of agencies connected with the American Central covers nearly all the States and Territories, and is managed with only that enterprise which goes with conservatism. At the great fire in Chicago, this company lost over $300,000, and although this sum exceeded its total assets, every cent was paid in full. The American Central building is one of the architectural orna ments of St. Louis, and covers one of the most valuable sites. Various Eastern companies have built up large constituen cies in Missouri, whose cities are adorned with their imposing AME„|0AN centmlTmurance co. KANSAS CITY : NATIONAL BANK OF COMMERCE. 456 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. KANSAS CITY : NEW-YORK LIFE INSURANCE CO. and magnificent edifices. Among these are the buildings owned and in part occupied by' the New-York Life-insurance Company, at Kansas City ; the Equitable Life-Assurance So ciety, of New York, at St. Louis ; and the New-England Mutual Life- insurance Company, of Boston, at Kansas City. Railways. — In 1849 there was not a mile of track west of the Mississippi River. Now there are over 60,000 miles in that iden tical region. The Pacific Railroad Company was incorporated in 1849, and began construction at St. Louis, in 1852, and in the same year, the first locomotive (the "Pacific") west of the Mississippi was placed on its rails. The line reached Kirkwood in 1853, Wash ington in 1855, Jefferson City in 1856, Tipton in 1858, Sedalia in 1 86 1, and Kansas City in 1S65. In 1876 the company was re organized under the name of the Missouri Pacific Railway ; and in 1880 Jay Gould and his associates assumed control. Since that tjme the company has entered upon a magnificent and far-reach ing system of southern extension, covering large parts of Missouri and Kansas, reaching the chief cities of Colorado, the wheat-fields of Nebraska, the sugar- plantations of Louisiana, the cotton-fields of Texas, and the choicest parts of the Indian Territory. By securing control of the St. -Louis, Iron-Mountain & Southern Railway, the Missouri Pacific commands nearly all the traffic of Arkansas, and has the best of connec tions for New Mexico, Arizona and southern California, and for Mexico. The lines owned or leased by the Missouri Pacific Railway Company, are run with scientific precision and modern comfort. Manufactures. — St. Louis is the fourth manufacturing city in America. Missouri's 900 flour-mills produce over 2,000,000 barrels of flour a year. The Dozier establishment, at St. Louis (now connected with the Ameri can Biscuit and Manufacturing Co.) is the largest cracker factory in the world, and can make 1,400 barrels of flour into crackers daily. The American Biscuit Co. also con trols the large works at Kansas City, founded by J. L. Loose. One of the most notable meat-packing houses in the world is that of the Armour Packing Company, whose works cover 14 acres in Kansas City, and furnish employ ment for 2,300 men, with a yearly pay-roll exceeding $1,100,000. Here stand the great buildings where 150,000 tons of meat may be kept in cold storage, chilled by the product of a dozen ice-machines, and an equal amount may be prepared for immediate use. The daily capacity of these works is 8,000 hogs, 1,000 cattle and 500 sheep. These great herds are speedily and neatly converted into dressed meats, hams and bacon, lard and oils, and a great variety of delicate and enriching canned goods, among them the world-renowned "Luncheon Beef. " The Ar mour Packing Company was founded in 1870, and there is now no region that has not heard its name, in con nection with the best of pro visions, prepared here in the very centre of the great west ern cattle-raising industry. - - KANSAS CITY : AMERICAN BISCUIT AND MANUFACTURING CO. THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 457 LOUIS : BEMIS BROTHERS' BAG COMPANY. The recognized leaders in their particular line in the United States are the Bemis Bros. Bag Company, who commenced business in 1858, and moved to their present quarters, at Fourth and Poplar Streets, a few years since. This company has branches in Boston, Omaha and Min neapolis, and manufacture all descriptions of bags, which find their final destinations in many portions I of the United States, as well as distant parts of the world. In 1885 the company was incorporated, with its present style. It has a paid-up capital of $750,000, and is practically a close corporation, with increasing business as the years go by. J. M. Bemis is president of the company ; and Stephen i A. Bemis is the secretary and treasurer. The beers of St. Louis have an international reputation, and indeed are highly prized across the water. Much of this reputation is due to two men, Eberhard Anheuser and Adolphus Busch, of the Anheuser-Busch Brew ing Association. The business of this concern is enormous. Their buildings and yards cover an area of 80 acres. These are not common buildings, but immense and archi tecturally impressive structures that amaze every visitor. They have been erected with ex ceptional taste and- rare solidity. More than 2,000 people are constantly employed. The premises are connected by railway tracks with the great railway systems of the country. The company owns and controls its own refrigerator cars, which number 800, a railway plant in itself, and the annual shipments exceed 14,000 car-loads. The beer is shipped both bottled and in bulk. The refrigerator- cars carry a sufficient quantity of ice to preserve the proper temperature of the beer in bulk, and at various points throughout the country the company has its own storage ice-houses controlled by resident agents. The bottling depart ment is the largest in the world and sells 40,000,000 bottles yearly. The brew ing capacity of the works is 1,000,000 anheuser-busch brewery. barrels or 4, 000,000 kegs annually. The company, in addition to its immense trade at home, has a large export trade with Mexico, the West Indies, Central America, Brazil, and the Sandwich Islands, and large supplies go even to Australia, China, Turkey and Egypt. This is not merely "America's largest and most popular brewery," but is also the greatest in the world. The American Wine Company of St. Louis, makers of the delicious " Cook's Imperial Champagne," has demonstrated that this country can compete successfully with the Old World in the production of pure, sparkling wines, and that we have already learned the art of the proper cultivation of the grape for wine-making purposes. The wines of ancient Greece were praised by Anacreon, and so has George Augustus Sala made known the glorious qualities of American wines. One of the pre eminent leaders in this industry was Isaac Cook, who, in 1859, undertook to produce wines equal to those made anywhere in the world. His success has been recognized by awards at all of the great international exposi tions of the last quarter of a century ; not only at the Centennial Exposition in the United 45 5 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. States, but also at the expositions in the wine-producing countries of Europe. Nicholas Longworth of Cincinnati was probably the first successful producer of sparkling Catawba, when he brought out the "Golden Wedding." Among his contemporaries was the Missouri Wine Company, mainiy owned by Gerard B. Allen and Wm. Glasgow of St. Louis. After Mr. Cook had made a suc cess of his business, he purchased the plant of the Missouri Wine Company, which is now the main vaults and headquarters of the American Company, of which his son, Douglas G. Cook, is the active president. No kindred house has attained the same success as this American Wine Company, whose two brands, "Cook's Im perial " and "Cook's Imperial Extra Dry," are to be found on the lists of every first-class hotel and in the hands of every first-class dealer throughout America. Besides the vaults in St. Louis, the com- st. louis : odd-fellows' hall. pany has large plants, consisting of press houses, wine cellars, etc., at Sandusky, Ohio, the grapes themselves being grown in Ohio. These wines are strictly pure Catawba, produced by a natural process, the result of which makes them of absolute purity. St. Louis was always a "tobacco town" of more or less importance, but for the past several years it has been, and is now, the greatest in the world, and Liggett & Myers Tobacco Com any of that city are the largest manufacturers of tobacco on earth. In 1878 St. Louis produced about 6, 000, 000 pounds of tobacco, of which this company made less than one third, while in 1890 52,452,852 pounds were produced, of which Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company sold 27,418,266 pounds, all plug chewing-tobacco. Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company's output for 1890 is the great est ever made in one year in the history of tobacco by any manufacturer, and it exceeds in number of pounds the combined sales of plug tobacco for that year of the two next largest factories in the United States. This company during 1890 employed an average of about 1,800 persons, and its pay-roll for that year amounted to almost $1,000, ¦ 000. For manufacturing purposes the company occupies two immense seven-story brick buildings, also a brick building six stories in height, used for a leaf-stemmery, and a warehouse covering half a block of ground. It also owns and conducts the St. -Louis Box Company, the most completely equipped tobacco-box factory in the world. Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company is the outgrowth of and represents the first tobacco-manufacturing concern established west of the Mississippi. Of its several brands the ' ' Star " is the most popular with consumers, and its great success is due to its being at all times made of the best leaf and the purest and most wholesome flavoring materials, and by an improved and superior manufacturing process devised by the company. Among its endowments of preeminence in Christendom, St. Louis holds its Meyer Brothers Drug Company, as the largest drug estab lishment in the world. Christian E. G. Meyer, the President of this corporation, and John F. W. Meyer, his brother, bought out Wall & Meyer, of Fort Wayne (Ind.), in 1852, and founded the house of Meyer & Brother, which established a St. -Louis branch in 1865. The outgrowth of this beginning is the most extensive wholesale drug business in the United States, with the largest capital ($1,750,000), ,,,r ¦¦ . company, and the largest and best-equipped offices and build- ST. LOUIS : LIGGETT & MYERS TOBACCO CO. THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 459 ST. LOUIS : MEYER BROTHERS DRUG COMPANY. ings anywhere to be found devoted to this trade. Their branches are at Kansas City (Mo.), Dallas (Tex.), and Fort Wayne (Ind.), with a house at New York, for buy ing, importing and exporting. There are 650 employes. The St. -Louis headquarters is a handsome five-story building, of brick and cut stone, with 170,000 square feet of floor-space, crowded with herbs, roots, leaves', seeds, flowers, bark, oils and liquors, crude chemicals and minerals, and all manner of medicinal substances, for the healing of the nations. The house has a large export- trade to Mexico and the West Indies, and Central and South America. Meyer Brothers Drug Company was incorporated in 1889. The business is mainly jobbing, although they manufacture perfumery and toilet articles, and chemical and pharmaceutical preparations. The United States has half a dozen or more enormous dry-goods emporiums of the first class, like those of John Wanamaker, of Philadelphia ; Marshall Field & Company, of Chicago; and Jordan, Marsh & Company, of Boston; and closely following these comes Bullene, Moore, Emery & Company, of Kansas City. The last-named house, founded in 1867, and with its buyers in Paris, London, Vienna, and other great cities, acknowledges but one rival in the whole Western country, and holds an easy supremacy in all the vast empire from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The house in 1889-90 erected for its own use one of the finest retail stores in the j Union, occupying seven airy stories, finished in hard- _ ftS3 vS-ft - wood, with 200, 000 square feet of floor-space, lighted on three sides, and with hundreds of electric lights after sunset. The building has 408 windows, 485 columns, and eight elevators. There are three miles of brass pneumatic tubes, leading from 35 stations to a central cashier's desk, to which they whisk brass cups containing money to be changed. The stock reaches $1,000,000, and includes table and kitchen ware, bedding and underwear, bric-a-brac and notions, lamps and clocks, pictures and ceramics, millinery and dress-goods, art-work and embroideries, gloves and shoes, furs and sealskins, carpets and curtains, and myriads of other articles. The business of supplying shoes for several million people in the South and West and Southwest has caused the establishment of many large shoe manufactories and selling- houses in St. Louis. Chief among these stands the Hamilton-Brown Shoe Company, whose St.-Louis "own make " glazed Dongola shoes for ladies and calf shoes for men are handled by over 5,000 retailers, covering a vast area of American territory. J. M. Hamilton and A. D. Brown in 1871 founded this business, which was incorporated in 1884, and now has a capital of $750,000, and employs 900 persons. In 1883 the house began the manufacture of fine shoes for ladies and children, and now it has one of the best and largest factories in the West, with two acres of floor-space, and a large electric-light plant. The wholesale establishment occupies one of the finest mer cantile buildings of St. Louis, and is one of the best buildings devoted to the trade anywhere. The chief aim of the Hamilton-Brown Com pany has been to secure the highest quality of shoes. The house now sells upward of $3,- 500,000 worth of goods every year, and ranks equal in business to any firm of its line in st. louis : hamilton-brown shoe company. the whole country. Mil «#-TO>-.^gj_.. KANSAS CITY I BULLENE, MOORE, EMERY 460 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ST. LOUIS : SHULTZ BELTING COMPANY. The important problem of the transmission of power has received one satisfactory solution in the world-famous Shultz leather-belting, whose manu facture was started at St. Louis, in 1877, by J. A. J. Shultz. The peculiarity of this article is that the leather is tanned on the surface only, leaving the interior fibre raw-hide, which is softened and made pliable by a patent process. This kid-like softness causes it to adhere to the pulleys, and combines with its great strength and pliability to make a wonderful driving power, with no lost motion. It is of a selected stock, carefully put together and thoroughly stretched, so that it can endure hard service and great strain, and outwear ordinary belting. These belts are especially adapted for electric-light machinery, and one of them, in the East-River Company's plant, at New York, is 123 feet long and 58 inches wide, transmitting 1,000 horse-power. The works employ 100 men. The company has a branch store at Boston. Among other ingenious Shultz products are the leather- woven link-belts, the links made entirely of leather, of uniform size and concave shape, and held together by raw-hide rods, which are remarkably tough and flexible, and of light weight, and at the same time secure the links as safely as iron or steel rods. These belts are made nowhere else in the world. The Shultz Belting Company of St. Louis are the sole manufacturers under the Shultz patents. When we recall the ancient and wealthy civilizations of London, Paris and Vienna, and even the comparative age of New York and Boston, it is amazing to learn that, with a single exception, the largest jewelry storeroom in the world, devoted to the sale of precious stones, jewelry, sil verware, bric-a-brac and art goods is found on the border of the mighty Mississippi, in the great city of St. Louis. Yet this is the rank occupied by the Mermod & Jaccard Jewelry Company, of St. Louis, whose great five-story building covers broad areas on Broadway and Locust Streets, employing 160 persons, and exhibiting all classes of goods usually kept in an establishment of this kind. The stock really forms a grand exhibition ; comprising a great variety of watches, diamonds, pearls, rubies, and other -gems, gold jewelry, silver, silver-plated ware, clocks, bronzes, pottery, and other precious and beautiful articles. Incidental are several departments, sta tionery, watch-making and repairing, special jewelry to Order, engraving, etc. A. S. Mermod came to St. Louis in 1845, an,S o"Hido ¦*eIIyton%^jffg£X „¦ . j n^ t Columns .J Ca&olltJn o Havana w /LTyDgsESb, /Mefrid.'ian Cubag J, DeaotoriUo ; nterjmao Mt.SterlingJ LJJaytoiia ™f Linden #aJ$?!l^\'t-Vi' foiling BpringP+f °VP eBIutR /Butlc?" 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EvergJeeQ^A^ )EQm°i /SpaJtPr^>^AndaIuji,CaatlobonV/«/TaIrfle14 Xy .opnng*/ ) (Hill JtTanton # C7 -W .# Jifij jilinette Tenea^ *¦ '- ;ine Point ILE itlaP Daphne tattles Pt.Clcar X 11' Ztmgitude \Sil NewUmt OsorlPf/' iadlfinJo' Midland Cy OlaJrhatoLeeoA „. , 7***-^?. /^ow,ick3burg^ nova J ^ _ _ Big Creek iaburgv*'1^,,¦eek S D A MAP OF ALABAMA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NOBTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y, (CopyrightfXSQI , by MosoaKmg Corporation.) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES. J^ 462 ARIZONA. For ALASKA see page 465. 113° Jsmrjititdo 112° West from 111" Greenwich 11U" MAP OF ARIZONA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP * CO., BUFFALO AND NEW YOBK. (.Copyright,!^ , by Mosea King Corporation.) Longitude 35" Want from 34J TYatltoigtim '.BentonviTie" ° / Springtown st —j U— 4 J oYokun . Eureka Springs -..- Springs ' Eerrjvhle — irialeoHin.^Tille .."CarroUton .Alton \ Spring .^Hardy l^SiloamfPPV1'^ "^'i""6 Ha '.Springs JWS&Wjman Hi\nBTUto j Lend Hill1 ,_-, . .,,, , \iPfc °T"3>T*a.° taenia YclU ill. N- 0-\X r„mklin°TO ImlKKl^- r. J Meisbui'go Evenln" o\_— Jilack Koek lee's p0 *Jl[j5|jiVl^M'^ ' f0»°^ Cedarvll\e0 Van Bu'renj ^^^^4^' #v a \ /si 1_Q. I -5 LJ-^--\ 'V ./'"""l J"-" ' § Mammoth -ZT"o\_ ) L^ji.rton\ Spring TFan^gpw.y ford a 1 | AahTla glance o Marahalio Mountain YiewoC ? Witta Springs Middle .we ™- l ^Settlement iV*0 Clinton ne a Scotland |.*«W,At Vi *%%oneSl BatesvilleigT-irV J y firmest Heber J! JacksonponjH|\Jewp0rn-"n:n/cr • Vp r>J Rronda Glaise£K\A.uvergnc?Eou\iB/.™ *P\/' < J^ 1 \Haokott „ -— _o-^Mi«arina „., MfiJ^asabP^^a? t.* , B*Mjf „ "t/oS „. 'if "VL "If? rami ^Holland aj, "Jacksonville /Xrgenta u r. headey^-^tflr^tf*^ Na ^ |\Mineral Spri Norwoodyille Browns tow Bocky Co into" Clark3vilie^',,,^»^ -^T* E X Ak S^ ' iIt.Pleasant -j us ¦"au-X-.sy^0 r>s»ijhi\viii« i tyOutrf XjSrtS?; "V^VSlMoville Cberr/iOrove Gi^V5^0,'&™felt A^J^T l« Cu,.. f Kf>-. Princeton ^S Crecty^iiSSso?^^Q\"™. *&' \ \¥f; f^ e« ->^ NcMEdinburg I, "\Vhe I C hides ter .Cancj O ^rV.ana > o|Falcon J "Warrei pamden Tinn\ o Simpaon0 Hampton / St- ¦ ^^v Champagnolle Wo ^ °Mt.Holly ''« ^ ;i Dorado , o Hillsboro Three Creeka o \ 0BlanVbardSpr3. I 15' Jahn villa J Long View 1 /^ lak.Vi/Ua8| O Portland)/ > Hambu^ irH„„td)T P„kdala4 J^ •tLJJSf. MAP OF ARKANSAS ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP &. CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. {Copyright, ,1891 , by Mosea King Corporation.) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES. 0 10 SO 30 40 GO 60 70 BO 90 100 ,60 MILES TO THE INCH i 14° Longitwle West 13 J /ro Waahingtot 12' 464 CALIFORNIA, ALASKA and NEVADA. i "T •¦? —3 MAP OF CALIFORNIA NEVADA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO. , BUFFALO, N. Y. ( Copyright, 1891 , by Moses King Corporation.^ SCALE OP STATUTB MILES. Longitude 40° West from 39° WashingtonSt? > o z > z m<> <3> Washington 27 ° Oarri.„0/J'r*0oP^ ' -Boston " Garriso Sprs. \ K. *"' — roTLiv6 M A jrnwall $ o\ fMtGoslSn^'1 J- ^tNoWk X, ta jjongizuue treat ja Jit /rum oreenwicH i- -4 4-^-H. dffA.lA 3 /ft' Fl\ *¦ c] iF tj BJ>>f- ^./Ef odolel)roqaBi»ei\n jlf (j W*"^J T 1 \T~ ""_ "_ ""»Kl^"r7^ • ^TO*">*/» V OfMnM-lnnll \ I >-f Iv l",v J . ... _ ""¦ _ 17 JOc.-iir-_j_iii»nTi_:_» rtA ( Jl'": Rive f ion FallaNVrtlage ">%. ) ~\\ HVest Granby > oHanUvilla'^iN^'CT.':'1' inp; Ewe" \Windsor! WcatoguyJ Srdville Stafford// v/y Cornwall i v ,,17= in w\i ^Qsyih \ |BetaeheJ,; I f\e.W -/^? ..11 .ggJjI.frioVTrillrPr* WoOdbllT^ U ridge) jVati;r Soufli jrancliester\k£ovunUfJ .w* i EastGlas onburrGiiead} /- X*StepncjYDcpl Bedding °Keddi?l " .nuicliYille Ulidg. Ge^rs^own jj| ^ i -p^^u! i ; ^ / ICalnnonya ¦KoiS.i W.Stratford. Goodspccds' ^^ k Chester^ oiNortbfordjKillinWorth) | '(mntonviU?^orthoT ' -'& Guilford ulladison . _,_aYen/n.]JraV.ra ^> Mdntrille o UntasvlUe'lP.O. Psfe A"?n ..¦ MoMiiille)Sta.RQ* GAes Hamburg j \ *l|f|OwMyi ...V„£-afc>j- JWaureganli J^CcntralfVillSso LStcfiling < m ™\ \ % *' jo on] \ j|<^ ^Hope Valley I/he, /Milford Green wicni 'r0"!!^!* Y J!-1r,,'cWter)orjffl Mt| Mantle P.O.W JSg} v\jtbEfLyme Staj r*t— ^estbrook^/f^^1^^. Tctuvitli. ,. ^r> IVaio/i «t// Pt. MAP OF CONNECTICUT ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, MORTHRUP * CO., BUFFALO, N. V. {Copyright, 1691 by Moses King Corporation.) SCALB OF STATUTE MILES. 0 6 10 SO >=i I— i t— i u-i I— i r ¦- ¦ \ 18 UILES TO THE INCH O Ozz m o HOcH York, a/ g£) /laneytoirn 0/^va 6 \ Parkton *7BJ3Jng- 'T_ XHampsteali Port Deposit^ i^./^ U° T r^ x5»r\ U>i«.o>4?lp>donJooo.eTS^h ¦ederick Jc. If " )" "" I — ^Cj. "^J°Oq /Towsdn ¦ffeverton/f Mt.AiryC SykoaviUt \^ \\farfc6 ' PHILADELPHI A\ *\ a^*— """" i Avondaley "IP35** ^!^5°J^^iilming^6n Ne^aM^y^Cjsj "' » p, ^Balcm JtLtr, v^hhafo] -J— iburgJBay™ 'ASHINf*TO$ ihepherd Marlboro' 'emon ^ / I t t&.Q Brandywine 7 £, i^fei Sunderland . .pteoraelacad J * Milton Hehjoper^ _.idgeTilleJ4r Elletdalo * V\New Market \ - * ¦ King's Handbook of the United States, 9Y MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP 4 CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. {Copyright, \m, by Moses King Corporation,) BCALB OF STATUTE MILES. 0 5 Q 1,0 «P 8?_ 9S MILES TO THE INCH FLORIDA. 469 83° Longitude rhomasville* S&**. V"3 JT"H»dson the Sunan -o o LuravllH. Pe"y . Hat&bi NeW Trny Jarrabella 'thicola ST. GEORGES I. G >- , f'Buu]ogne,KrTO'^Jv^£3 Bt.Marys SW Ma? HiniSjA01"*""13^! ,__H.'!TWl Fernandi 'Bak*. Mill '-'I, Ml^an^y^jirtKoad. LJaepeT J DliWin/treV / _5t« Mnyport «T^Pablo Beaen F«- way ^-/i^V2!,VILf-E v FtWWtJ^ 3 icb Sprir^'^-Q.'VV'aldo^r jif Newnanavillir 7\ Gainesville^ -¦' .Arredondox Archerr^ffl BronBon)/^,lcano^R yrille/ Hoddkklj Antlion\yA OcalAj .ySt.Augustine^ A;) ANA3TASIA I. Cedar Keysv -*£- -^ jatalEiVrA &J, LU.MjfflA3^ l.r.lC»y5fcSS° 1/^159 Jt>j MAP OF ^1 imioka River Irmond SZ-Sf V\TRMTlana Cfttnpt^L-Vtji^Hiinnj,, J1/ 5**T V *»* ,* VXfToSop'*'..! a *3^ ^^X^SCW^S™^ tir^h .'; FLORIDA * ¦%.,.. ' 'BinioW °°'<. y ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, Ey'y^Vr'harlotte BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N, Y. Boston on (Copyright,W$\ by Moses Khq Corporation,) ^ ^roveH WinterJ^avi Bartow *^ ;ylFt.Meade ». by Mloirling Gr&n X. J .MWanehuH ) 3 7Ft Zolfo \ |t 'itf J, Charlie ApopJ * ?5 B r ¦ j w nv i 1 le — - )£AJ Arcadia TjJ " .___ o o javera, tel .auGallle TTarrowaY Kissimmee St-Luole A FLTJuringw ^V 47° GEORGIA. S4° Longitude "West from Ortenwich 'Dayton WE tf^ii -^t/Clevcland^S7-^,'M: * iColertNM •fc^O'ajnCobiitta^' "\X " " "F- iv/arnella Kf\% Morgai ajsfiold vilHFayet (Tryon i I PlainTillc I {Summer' iwasseeQJ 3»l"onjrTallulah Falls V |%J -/¦„.- ^^ClereUnd// ' Jiiton ^_^ "a^,u,,^V^^k3vaifij(? Dahlone'g . Mt KT^^S^^l Dawsdn Cornel '¦*! wS5^ fcJaaper oV ^°t^.SBaMround fJ^>B5^/^G^nesYil lj G*ir ton ^*%jf*f*'- \ ]- Sp**^C7Wood3t<>ck /, ^Qr0rf'?^0j( aiii_L(*J^\3^ iW0 »x I KoaweU AqBuwaneel ~^1 ol^-CTooooa Ifeltajf/OiniesvilleY .- I*"1 MffiSSi /VSVel°ieiaf^OTmony,ar\ MAP OF GEORGIA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright,lf&\ ,by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES. 30 40 50 100 ^S^S^M ^I^SSif ol" \/ '¦ -A M' --"¦' ' 86 UILES TO THE INCH Mewberry McCor aick Edgefield li- Eowllon p£, /Tav(!Koville4" X^A, 'McNponoutb ¦.j!jMNhite ^^hiteabu^sL/op JHamWio/NJ \^ U^N* . Eowi Franklin ' HogansviUe/ >^UftmBin \\ \ -A (Sparta, ¦^w.GjtJspn *_---c !cavill,>^V,^1__J^W Wacoj ^ Ft-Gaingi ^hiteKaJaB "tScellt :ewnan>**ii ,\ -« ¦^ ^ \$$/Sr SpA.JtjFlovilla >jaill3l\or< ..^^P^fe Uny2$&a-*»r% ~^& -JO*"* l^HonK £BJ>""> Worn*' Ha*K»s T deraonv/ille Y..?&e>, I.. . ijvienna vsg J$* 3- *»', Hardaway jT^1- Nashville A'BainbrldJ?- V. ft" AX<)eblj>Sne.N//j>\4. %, BLMarksV IS^^ fcWrena^ '6—,'5\iii*i« fc-«*-i — 7— '"-itpra ^«»"A0oiadt"°;^^S* ™ Z^rSSO^ S |Hine«Tilleo >^l! EJi^e£olinston'»«i^'| 'I ' So«7ei^S^iJSA<*jr Ei*1* fv ^//V^ pitUraon A^5\P,3 ri e n _._li T "\ ^ iftijimaha . Waycross,, x . . otDej. Glenn»orc>r \* ra Tt.Mudge"S^ ^,. \JRace ^JRacePond _ i TJptonviJle'' QKE&EtiOKEE IStatenville/-? ^-^—.Folkaton StiL-~gr8W2MP£ s( ¦ — . y^kefenokee^- ?' Jftamaha R. r8T7S1M0N9 __ri/nswick -**^^ B St-Slmona V"!*.-^ J^ X$ve Oak Hudson t theSifwanne^ >5^^JCU«IBERL.rjO BaUeTaMlilfltTrS * .O a ^LMurjaNief™',*t1"14 H Fernandina 4Mayport IPnblo Beach |ja*w^ ' a u l ApalaclneoTSa ^ O E MUX F ICO' eCtJc. XWaldoVA SeftOgustiiioV tTcst 0° from Washington 5° IDAHO. 471 115° Longitude 114° Tfeae, from 113° Qremwiclt 112° ^B R 1 SUj tSrJSaf***5""" Jiillflilte MAP OF IDAHO ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y, {Copyright, 1891, by Moses King Corporation.) 79 WILES TO THE INCH. 472 ILLINOIS. 91 Longitude Went 00 fro >~ Ta^ n^SBSkACApplcftiv. ^S. \ cefc>"Ttt JifsT «;">^SiarraidV '""""XT", U fi. ^ Oedar-Tiaplda-^ ^IowuNCity urllngtorh Ft\MadijQ5\ Maquoke ta ^-vn&S?, ^V^fer^J^— ^ocgord ~ ^ifitS535Sfe,,S0S?" .. ^ » fyypV ,iL*r T^ Mnj™««W^atau^Yai..^B-p«wi.i- */ I 'ZT*^^iLL^^Ic>*^ABelviderS\ \**sf If X^NiHLighland Park™ r?V^H--Sy^^jDfiiaJ^Wicno_a A*\ k'TJsJ jttlU if-HtSrE vans ton -w- :e Forest bland B Bights £, *--/ Bataviaff/rlTunia; AuroT3rfpo1! L, \.p..,w,i a.\f_-o-F~A. ^YorkrilleT ,^.l>^Cajble*X™lnJ0^ilwl^ I nT"\AWi.->tTf"0."v£'Altl,lla~'c>v^ _ ^¦/' Wenonaj^ /, V -. — yj, ¦ • \T KIiY . "w!% *" W^omineS kwon/fc^p?-— -^Ti^fAnNcona ~:/*i; >V — / — .cw^Oneida— 3 ^J| n- liinatraf/^j/Galesbutto t/fc™^; "PMVS !j^y0del,/i?e7%^< , Sr5irifie7ffiW ^\ ™ N. «jp>A™iV HrSSinitorMf^ewaahingtonl ^yioxlngton/jEiat/ / MillordV I 'A XlwHarpa X tfPrailUcit, KPel^K>a5\''»fiEi<« P-5to— — -Cfl CiyfoaWaflt,, JvPelJinMan' artl)age/Colchestei\Lewistowi}/ v Wf V^*'^lAmiin«orl"S2y ill A./ cit^ /. RoflBvIIIeH \ . « /* \ ^rr^.l^ .^T>elavan>\ y"TOyi-w''1liJ^»o--^-/'t/uTOrf?i1 JCew.1 V ¦ ¦-»¦>, &»Jf^J*te ^"^ /Plymouth *)j<^n(/>& i^cuytoi [Quincy vUsaiiies\ r _TnOai& rl XT / ^ Decatur's 1. 1 Tuscolaj c£K^idJmfVm\ Roodhousey T6-..J y^0o. .CaseyL^MftrtiVnafille Toledo'1' Sti'wiardaoiL. , . . 'Jit jpYeatYorkYf |q '< rESiilshaVln^toon, lorento— FP61^1^ -11 „ rann®>,,G';eeilTllle>0 Edwardsvillg/ **" \ /Kmj ^— -^Highland Solllnsville Sbafc, , Louis ohio 71", MAP OF " ILLINOIS ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, SY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, K. Y. (Copyright,18Ql , by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. n ID 20 30 40 E0 60 70 ftrnrT ,. I - I lr I ¦- ' ' ' GB MILES TO THE INCH '-»?& \AMs^ . Xen 'a/em Newton^> ^Eagewood ^\ l "West Liberty H Naahrfillo 04S5 ¦AjUl-^-lJ Tamaro^- A Itadom SSgg-T4gS#!!!£ t«hIE»nV7'C" J ^ iKcl^a-MborotfL^fe— -ff • "ijlan Parker City Y. Jongitade 14' W«> /r»m 13 TTnaM)w»?i_C^ ^(Metrojais ,_C it y Bft TTInrrti'n^ For INDIAN TERRITORY see page 602. INDIANA. 473 CHICAGO 87 J Longitude Z.MTCH. West from Greenwich 85 ° :ertonj>Jg^JTi' _ . ¦Wrarffflg, ¦¦¦¦¦¦:-....-¦ ."^jS^jg^Wrikert c!^*' S^Lfl. Orlando Bnntol */ ^~li™ao Premorjt/ |~""v '"SrlorJh Liberty ° I J^JMWaburs V* >,. U !§> I >f^> . , , ^^^^il^^^^S&z^ li / 0[Ov.nirtlinEiS&. ^am^(^>Sj^Tynort^lW«^ , ^ 4or..4^^i|^Bl^i%ioc sl^>k^raM °^weU/^^>^>4rC5£^7>-^^ WatVaw Cburubusco J--T V ^^SpcnWvilIcr fc(l*c6 Rose LaiNlV FairOnkaX Mcdarj "'Ishr.namac' «™«p^,KrK J«-«S%afflfcii^miLIffl8! iirth JudioTr !'d XMoijtorcy' Ro He 'l Star tAkr.> South Whitley sl>- berty Mills City Muey ', m^^'^^s^^m^ ^rttevfe^Borli^ alu I BJ .IT '*,. ^j. /A^7Buck\Cr. I A I \yp. FayetffsW^Eou.iiieK,) r\ ; Green HTIIA •Ay/l">/VPtJ>3jion\ I r-siiKr Sedalia y^RuasiliviIlk """""i lOFalrmount Moraiv/sl,i.i|rt-illBVcc \. Summitvillel Xato3\ Mielii-antoiAn 'f.HJV ind fall 9 A1 f^'^Mlexandria /Colfa: ^hornt, ifkliSfiJc; * \ Atlanta ? . , -, , rn >rvShcridan&FflCnderson\ j/'Tj ^^fy'^VT eYTVrcT*t^!faynttosrri>arlinS^n w..,a^X AP,eoro,^>Tk»^»" *'p^>^"^en^Vct?: ¦iJJeV CMooreaville? yto,-Br\nokli> armonyVgj^erd^e i <& ^t- IX Centroton>-' r ra n K 1 1 IT..Q, ,' Paragon J3 M a rti ns v \U€ c , u^rflin^GreerX ^^^V1^^^- Vfeain , Cltj*"^*^ *MorpSEo» Ealnbul i-J ' '¦¦ -'• ,^**|Incsvllle Taylorsvill t--*r^^",wwt »i ClUloJ ^lllcttsville NashvUle (Freedom \ BloolrtinKton ^V I i Eliiabetht' ,Worthinston SVSnftjfi-nto joacs^le --! Bloomftcld ; 1 .£rfoasbtt!?. Wr.burala./fcWJ^I'W .«,*»_ ledfotd Hedoro aa. ^llVCrutlior.villeV^ela^^JMadiaon J;oi»is»««W/a — i>\Mitcfieil luili4'! ^-=TSty Hf °," \ Saltniu.ille , , °"'W»V PS*^ rt.li.nn. C~-»~r\ r.n>n,u>l,al nrff °V OLCXingl g5&T/HaBleton /Petersburg WW/ our cPatoka -,. .Orleans pT^V-Campbollal urg s 'V ^ryShoala^^t. *.>^L veknnai o Livonia -» Paoli'3 c French Lick Youngs Creek pekir ' ll.'V". illr; »°' Flatltock">riGreenSburg Uro ^oj£^--^!yT~---o-^illute8villo XNow Points,- '-ci^Movr" «. Mart/sville ., Holton> Parin. Barbers ville CINC Guilfurd! mk Mt.SterUng f ]oronce lenryvllleo ,'IcmpliiaA leka JWinalow JuVrVt ^^fc-att r'lU ''«'«. ' LQUJ^ ^^Mil^^^Elbcrflcld °,„ "^Llneoin" Lcoiwld^^^^i'ddlcT^uo^ Boon ville ' QsvillfH,1"; ¦bun* MAP OF INDIANA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the O United States, OV MATTHEWS, tionmnup & CO., BUFFALO, U. Y. ( ('¦ 7 ¦,.:,¦„ .¦/,(, 1801, ir- Jl/.j.-.-i fi!'j.,-y ,,..r;..,r. .d.jn. J SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 20 BO 43 MILG9 TO THE It West 9° from «jj 94" Longitude West 03° from (ireenwich Jackso . tirZ^vAg ^^SLakc Par! : pids^""V sua. OobeyedajiTSr fleor-' .S . / . «3 ^ia-hton MflfcW Lake ILngh Lak> t?ale^/ "Prim5hax**,*~^ — Alton T _sGte<"' fc« forest City ,-j Madison / rt&GLIr*1* ^ s»—/V Kr .v* „*s. ^ii ^s. JlLiiverne /t-»^"^ Quhnby . ... Cresco^Jp-idgewL^ ^ >S >V» C MoYillel -^Correctior/ville Mrgeant Bluff^.nthonldaJGrove ¦e^Wl o\n I I) *-icAffi5|® --JJdobult -^^Danbury -Wall Lake apletown )*. V\J« Charter S'Vor"^ \0ak «*Z ^ ifflT Dunlap^'MaoiiiS?' It.SioifcSjWLittloSiouv^ '- +>rl,l: Lime Spr SheffiM Ng'S", MAP OF IOWA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, Tl0O0l*».&^\C.;b BY MATTHEWS, HORTHRUP it CO., BUFFALO, H. Y. "0,N.:— USS^E' (ftapyrlfl,!, 1891, h Hetit King CoTjrOrulitm.) ;U n ;or UCALB Or BTATCTK HHXEH. 0 5 10 20 30 40 60 oitE^^^^t^^mm^^ tort 16 V ' ^ \^°»WfBjanMV.E tenburg 66 miles t rkeyB. S^M»"ohBster|^ --iq LaForte Cy^^igndon Sac CHyV^ukweU Kal^Op- N™-£' X'^>$8B^aG^ View \,flwvif ^TOIeMgh \«^«* ^"£* ffiSArf ^SS^1^^ «T*W ^ ^V*/>orNto,1TI ^^^"^fi^"-^ view \\fl%. Jl^ VI>^bV^J£-— o— -&-^JlfSrff£r.i *»rjr™inbeck >-b»„ A . AA .. Hoplkinto&b iCaacade ^nJernarQ^^ r- p~ Cyv>— V— .AS— giPSJK — - — *C m.„ .-^Lfllfford ¦X\TJ.Po«nGv>tfBrandon'l Walker V ^-Xl 3-*^^ „ .. — >H a *&jfc£^ty*tf TO ... :-^-Uife^^aIfr%BeeJin5^^J .-— - -„, !i^g=r^*J>_^lOiford-Jc, .,-,.. -^_ ^lechanics^Jle, ..VV»W? fcJ'0naWflk u 1 S7wiwTWV^r!7M \ Valley J->Ha VVSUverMHcndersfcn TJevinville O e\*c „«A0 V - -¦"- A --*** » '1»i> *-- '«»» J M *M arrWut^l fitaVlndaLPWtr /^^ ».^'l VSeakVborofMin5,b, -. ,yfinV.Jb.Molnteiun .New^-SlThorah' I wiiu?^»a^>^«gjj-^ Iowa ^ J,\^>--5. ^ s»»"*i.™ i1iiL'be"'r—drtf iito^j?' ,arlea\ Knoxv nie 1™v°a5gSa LaeonaV) ?"J*v!*lSJsgA! jeR!r^3J "(UoeN A" CigHncetM- _ ViEldridg|r JrQ ^ifiS*8 ^lijfet to- •..-•¦ iHr Vf V#4. ni.n^.r,W O li j.o^^^jCiii.. //Rlft'liton Limoni i^fi , i.„r„.. . d0 Grant Cy. s Allerton itnevij TJincinual o teitirtabuxg 4lis jfeaf 16° from Washington M m Longitude West qb' from Greenwich m° Fairmont I KANSAS Engrarej for King's Handbook of the United States, A vV «^jv>^*' Hanov Waahinitton BT MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1801 , hg Moses King Corporation.} SCALE OF BTATUTB MILES. 0 10 90 80 40 60 BO 70 B0 98 100 '#Whit^01oudJ«S WttieY 8»S SS^^Nl* e/V - Baker. ie«ea<\St5*X)uncti m^^^'s^SSTst 3sO§§-° yilnon Brook).!lle "^KT „ rKVV3£$mteCl. to,j«K&aor«Wlon EdaertonJ'r {SpJmf Hill - -^S=J*SSnC>^ 1 i*S»o1al '- ~~^J-1 >V U e.^v V\ •o'/YBeadingV 1 >^«lLane/p(aayatomie __ 'averV ^Hartford/ ^ — <|/Gre4lyi tfonbT. t/^cPhersoiwT}**" -.V^T C/ottonwood\ 7*5^, *-/ Garnet^ PleU^. n? />* V: PeabodyT^fr^Bajar'5 ^eiBurlingtor ^ ^Uedora ^ - ^ "voAtf^^y-* \Burn8 Madison^ White >Aater— iE^^^TVSgJ™?' tt,ut> ^^ffiS^«y]U,I)e,bT/|P''5^» •OletuW^l'i Aif""^"^'!"" ^S^P&JP™? C-' T^HSl^on HarpcrT r. Wellington Sevcry, -^. h:v-K^™,,t vWj^Kr7' \|/S^i IxirJscon^Ht'eod/eab^yPa r/sonsw^'V^ — c»^f — -^Winfield ^^Indepe/fipenMS^/inSr^LJ^L-^- — "["ICoffejviUeft*. 11 I Mlti-D. TlETCkR.1 Longitude West 21 ~from Washingto 476 KENTUCKY and TENNESSEE. 87" Longitude y^rf"''0*. ^..i^ii /o. 1 & / \ _) t. / f ' Bellerf ¦«\^-f-^ t\J-— — ''Centra lii \^»l* tLV^i **S*-*-w y^v Ail^Y *N> 1 *¦%. / pa ) Percj V MAP OF KENTUCKY AND TENNESSEE ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP * CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. iCopyright,189i,by Hoses King Corporation.) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES. f= N \p' 4B MILES TO THE INCH lluallugburg Pi ^YoPaducai Wa>erl* " ' HorguBeld Boi ville Cairo ekoTBDoBoTdUj ,8i?rgU DIlon Ip'aJO o ' „u iVandBTbarg- %lSli.ngt.wnilla H t/\_ PrOTldBllCB 6.11-uwniS Of *£. 1. _. ^Madison ville' Tl ncetpn^-^^DMn \ y^MafcniiigtoSlp, , Irrlnft Clojprport vw Umnlliuburg \\n\}3^d&jyjQrf-"i- _ No. Fall,, *f Hour; hr- ml Bolna 0,. sf*^ "tjZo-^g^UUwood i«nw yiwter Dain$,>,c»n«J''»l" . J&rVVii .„„*"»£ j* y £ ^X ^V /«v. Ofaiiriaw dv- *. E % y£y»Dton\^\. Caakj^V PEUltr^C KENTUCKY and TENNESSEE. 477 IT 4$. ...o, /Powaa Vdllart , 1 ^^.- \ oKnoi liamKtowu^ """" Llbcrt* /TferrJ Ciriol!, I K? ¦wecion 1 *\ 1 oH|w C"' u Y"1 nnierey Cynthian ia V ill, ' . „(3a Ground N° GallipolWll Brook riUe r ..nouthXv" "W^1' SPa">^illiamHtowUT m°U ?\ aanlU "GmmaVwwn ^O New Liberty f^ / V. „&,.„, J . < | Halonsff^. 0 Kouni C»i ^FleCQingnborg QToplar Plain* j MlllBlrtjujfA 1. llill^.i.™ ,Jhll. [jjii Carlisle «VK*yOBT,Vparis Suarpsbur^N ^ o^llBad Millar, - -lw^J'vrin^HG8orgsfflwn ^T^Wf B",dy Il/ »\.wn J JwiUueld-^Jel;liC0^^wc°#^^ ' le Crab J •Vm^^^-^Jw^ „ Jamwtown N/jD Hui^vi^WeU'SpHng ^^one Mtn^ ««,&= o^P?" j> if 3hS^*u>'^fis^)fjjiuo"C Bristol jpg iarl>ou>'VO,ijlJfjjluo-citr | ^>^.«^g Johnson fan^Ur^Qomoa &f«*,Q\ °\o'**£f*[- "' L!b8rtj[^., I#gHClo ^Q „,,,X^g_^^ .'Kings C: Sp*nlJffil-/^->^TJltton* £0/1/ fO Knott ^WjjaVmgton ^crNl" Market Strawberry Plat*.' ¦DandrldBe/SJ Kowi«rtJ E O Sevleryille tt^jf y.AWaryvilleo opokcj )ny M ntvale^w,,,™ Val. ° Uatlinburg Cbilhoiroe - . \ ^.^ ;Sl^,'">». ri..,i k i „ OoltoiLw^ACtevelandDunkt, * z J> .ths of the 'iseissippi River Part Eada For MARYLAND see page 468. MAINE. 479 70° Longitude TYest o * .•ForRKont 4 QrandTallay >£) J$ */ Maaard,ai, MAHSlH,tg o Jlit. ^SmjrailMillk H, «!„(„„ Liaacu i o o I fc"2S! o * /I HV Xajf ' Katalidln Ironj-W rkfl Cjee nvill i | i, _^ ' %^ 1 jRro.Ovii7I >n Jcr^oit-ra^JTO^^iJrna Sir *•«,&* TireefKlver., Too \ Palmer Welistet WilbYahiT! Charlton o nJ^nwfieldTs ^Brimfleld,,., , pringtieiQ fHoiiBon G-,ol> " ffkshifrSjTF*^ BUEricM ~ 1 §/ Wi./ilWorN wburyport V Stealing >' OSJcdaJe/ . .Grafton M™lBboro »"««««t m^MS If^p^Vnaek "Carrar ^niTTcn, MAP OF MASSACHUSETTS ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP 4 CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. {Copyright, \ffi\ , by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 5 G 10 SO BO 40 ¦""^ ¦' .. 1 1 58 MILES TO 1 INCH. Wollfleeg CAPE COD Eoflthei Barnstable coo1 l&Ttai ^aiKJiselMCataurAot HyinBll / For MICHIGAN see next page. MINNESOTA. 482 MICHIGAN and WISCONSIN. «>jwn Bearer Bay < r •=*<" Washburn Iron River 0\\ f^ {Middle Wioer StL II O { J/\ If %JV( White Birch Gordon _ i -fS aVCable < /Hubbard r~/ (PAtpjwjSl&i.) rHavwar< Veazie^%jS^ff^'tirs(W^ Qrantsbure^. Lv/dpooner S Itjg.HEs'. Bandall |» - /SAcULake- V Wolf Creek I /Cumberland' V* »*(.¦* \ . -A At \t**.&fs*$ <^-?.Aut. vg_ /Turtle Lake\ J5 Chetcc Carhrrigbt! lloomeTj' -«£' f-AP ^ £^^j£**>l» -^J Coloma *""* \ Plain vie w ^ Roc belter Blair [ ^^Pouitain Cy. f.DcPerf rforton ville ^3*^1 fWrightatown kaiina 'orcst Jc. IbMshiV *A ? Decorah IWauk " CaahtonP o ^ElrojTs^ackwaokecir-?** tl^rf^— * Weatbj / „ flillabo'i^^™^^1^11^ Markeaan ^ „, / Rocltton \* X^Lfl Cftfflbrfa ^ r T-oqua cJSSS'^tj^k^ ' Elchland Cen. \DniU I, J& SPojnetti New Cb MShebojr ur V BmAfratrie i^^Z_iliShW_l^l hadison . ¦ *p/OoBtbarg , .^w'waakum/i i*™.?* iL JiFWdonia Port Waehln <¦-— y,, ^jurafton pville Oregjfo X »>|8<°^™At Atkiraw: MAP OF "SSfcS^iKi MICHIGAN fgteST 4 AND WISCONSIN ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States BV MATTHEWS, NOHTHRUP * CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1891, by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE, MILES. 0 IP 20 30 40 50 60 70 BO 90 100 CUntOnJ ¦ 1 1 | j 1 L | [ I 1 Gratiot Galena tvM.lto a?nfauk* Freeport/1 jp-Jeifcraon-; 'frL /t-a, ""lie, Imilwaui :««ol '¦ "'•¦'le wateW ¦o^MRacine artesville* — i^i °L|WS3tarn Halo 1alavonpi*^£U.l.orn ^Tjeaep Bharo^S i Kenosha 61 MILES TO THE I ffWaukegu MICHIGAN and WISCONSIN. 483 . BT" Longitude West I ¦ i'**1?. Chippewa L. -^J^O aiyi* \pincoani^g^^y(V' pyl ^i«bx»< •¦¦¦"¦ . - ! Whitehall^ >- a ^ vuw*v Muskegon Frultpoi Grand Haven! Holla rfd Ottawa BenchT Saugatuclt Dquglaa Coletpa Mlj30,'a4» Paine s. Gagotowi . • . 1 •/••— ^^ter w Mortal* /'""""^oWLAjb^nj^^ UojardfXuoral /«umiS,.^M_ ''"-Ouis ( ^h^^ ^ Vpoalori^™"" ^ 1 toin5*°° Ijti ^Marietta \ jnville PortSanlloc I "ci,,. V VJ* / Blantoa y^J itnaaa x ¦ v,„w OedaKSpra;/!^^^^^^^^;^!^?^^"^ ^artaP 7KockfordVri;cllTillaD * u'^Elaie/. , Ar-JSaldlagoNj.l °'-M0,°riZ>~~ IP™$»*r Ionia*- ^ Cj. IthacaA No. \yala|\ i'^LicVV cK_S: awelUtJ' eft a «4* o«' 0^5 5hirand\ V ' I /a "H-i^i-^^^SalSarala 1 _*l oAd^RH°32iJrl_I5'r ETROIT llaaloaEarborS-T: ""T^ "L^Vick.btreo-^Pg^fcjT/vSl^SS-gllato* r SUoBBjbJ^ Baaalur^ ^^P^lor./fW*^^ V^.l^te>^r,,^V*^^olo.r^fe^^^ j fc^2f V>5Zr »C* xl. E~1 K J ^Michigan Cy. ^MopoliByConsWjS&^Bronlc HUisdlaiej! ^Bankers J ^¦Reading Q° Longitude Weat 8° from Washington 1 " 484 MISSISSIPPI. EMPHIS.fit>"» Greenwich 6 Holly SprinEaJRipieycT1 Tyroj ffat&rfoK^^gft /« Graham,? iviUo „ \ Highland)-. . Marietta ( I s t , 'uw AlbanjPo,,, .J\ >& siMt^- 1 w'StoTo^nl^'^'Ut/^'»4-p1 sr |CoWra. SbuT'toJf^Waltaa./oxfoiT|r»Pl"SrK§^S,y6alaUo j *SjKft Joa^toiraO |_,.v8ahmla^*mmuft-i^ + « /W-£ OWatkinsviSc tjfm plaiy-OSatDiy Walniilhrove A. r, O\)nloji JGhalaonQ Peden0 g; >cKalb< 'paW»SVj' /Raymond^, f Warrefiton ^.jSTMcRa- ^Oakley ^ Learned r^/^r ^Terry^ oHarpeHviQe Lucern DalevillB1: n >H. Wckharta . Decatur ^/M^'«n/B°^>oiKewanM c.k* r-aEgeuiT \ ChuJ^sX'wi Lfflf,5ffK'ToomBuba f* t» ^AUtUbBC J^Mjlca Crystal Sprt ^./Maeee 3fc*cr o Sy 1/arent. -We»., ¦iGallmSh X o Old Hickory/ f TGm-cI «ials\ \ obTajlorvifle) ¦¦"¦""-ar^ ^.rtol'1 •n_t... ' >r»_j.i„i.vPinnell\ iregaid Wesson H ,¦¦.'! ' I- , Brookhaven °William8pu: Silver Cr., oSantee (Martina' iBeaurejrai Ljctte -(9^ifStanton KMcSair WaehmgtonflHamhar^ "*^IV WdanFairE\^>«»ymchmondP ''Boiuc Chitto .4JklnBoa V r; iteBMllWMcH0S'!, , Levcn >, LVGloattr Wl" "*" ?o„inS>PolmMv, tAdm.VoH°llJ'/CCotT%,bu„}o'S.ia OTjlfcrJo™ } Bpriraj t.Aaamajn^r„or/| rtl.„ (, X«'l|aburs /n It,;,,^, T)nheliivop0,blm Sfiwood StaJR*""1/ I 01) FOsyka ,:l| Dill, m MAP OF"" MISSISSIPPI ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BV MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1891 by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 0 6 10 00 90 40 CO £0 70 B0 60 HILE3TD ONE IHCH iddoohXPi™^ ilisville \ TiLcano! a Moni\jo oVJEstdbutcl i< WilHwood ^TokaholaJ ^phclittf\pCottoffl^/^alt>wnlj Cbljgtiepin TO? 5, LliH.-Udc s, Poplarrille I^VWt Creek :yS/ ( Airey MafcervUle J* f' Eucutta RShubiita - • *¦ o i\ a: Progrcaalon^Ai^jE^I ¦Wityncsborp'l^TJe: McDonjilda Millfl £ _ ,.attiesburgl „.„,«». Leaf a liuaatunna cakca villi o Vernal 6 Cross i : ¦ i. v i -. fairley AAAmerieils J Ramsey^^/3 | ftrtOBlLE j| Qainc/mdW*';^^pi^fs7f ' ' * 9^jSS»gor*ilffi, Zanffifw^J Wea( 14° ,/iwi IKia/.in^on ¦ 13° yBafllngtouXB. ^a3Syi sft.T ,aM^1"'^rf. .....^PaoacJ^ltJ!^.' ' ^m^3- 11* MISSOURI. 485 486 MONTANA. For NEVADA see page 464. . J. Mincola ( Tip.!*,.. Verdigr *"¦ \MiddleJitaiKh rVankton iff).-"" Jobrita "feHetaoS* ,.. Chi tubers -ws^1™ >fc/*S " LJiMars Cherokee")' o City. MovilleA im«iA a_«!^. Arcadian* e„,..i.,>iY w «V,,,,ul \ In. J**>"' >>3B£ ^&,Xo.daXPrdKP°'«?5^* *H a VJ^KTA1 | 5t.Fraiicia B SCALE OF STATUTE MILES ' ' . , 0 10 20 30 BO 50 60 70 80 f ^^ *\ i 1 , , 1 ' . &^ J^Sfe^fnd \$*\\$m&£&^&m> aska O' &• I ' „^J-' — ^^jtf^^^— -y^ZsvJX ^-te, /ead Tliprprp IV^ >3?vi *)Ta'(Qa«!S\'- Jj_£S4j=^aaSE*gM WbV> Cayf^X. TTiltarH Si ?>-2Si? CO>05> 00 24° Longitude West l^'from Washington 53° 488 NEW JERSEY. For" NEVADA see page 464. 75°30' Longitude N Stroudsburg \ /Uontagifev ( r CoWrille o tuarry 1 ilk i )eckcrtownr IVallpack, Cen.i Newtoi CburJottobui DeLWatcr Gapft ~ Portland J •if* $4 I Greenwood . .... JpLakefJ ff> A«.bfra .«^>Jl rawCitV SSa^™*1111 TurnaceW RiJ w^Jgctcnsburii' ».?Mid; Hibcrnia SpOtBWOoa[ lowa ¦piaU.K^"nertMU»a| BSS?- Plains */ Marlboro filight. £m[l.«] fTRE ingdalBy Bristol , PHILADELP Long Branch Port O Sbury Park u.'lmii Grove IVU1B Q ict' an Beach Ipring Lake Beach ' 1., ¦, 1 iiiKi [olnt Pleasant >. /"Bay Head Jo. ^ uantolokinghi dwiok JZ4r "%_ *"K5 R<&<6=I55X5™M» Mill.. mvillo V-f/ffl Brigantine Atlantic City J^outh Atlantic MAP fi C NEW JERSEY ENGRAVED FOR ILiact. Kin9's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. {Copyright1.9S\, by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. SawcllaPt. Longitude 2*30' East from "Washington 3" For NEW HAMP8HIRE see page 506. NEW MEXICO. 49° NEW YORK. I HI iJ ton ^TOItONTO A Whitby 1C E o .«*¦ ^ r j. 22 / '^nA 5gP*^\ rlJMonma [ZtSff 3 1* ^°K^1/* H'^^^Wt^si^^jla^ Vl»i°^*P™fM^W*^e«a\«a\Hon,crA^;i. ^fc™, 7/^ /\A PlkJ» f IX .-5^'»«?iKr, VA»*®CkW™»»«S>l WfrarillW J 7 >^AflhfordjL fcun/uafV J t Sincla Srrtilc itrmair?-- l^t'J^^a°ffB^a™aaie^ ^f "Wo*, ,|aa„alL'1"-'3^^4^,U<#?%=_^i«,lK "L*^-^ Corry ACandom Hqrnells^X,Brii,nis^ t5btutauq/ua?^,,Ji^ncl^rrtlJe r V-ttlfc Vallcy\, \yCubap& Belmontf AlfredlSS^k ^ampboiy .S'Hw/ni.^.rJ/^S/7 ftcJr^ / (OameroffK ^V* Lndov>r PamtVd p3 Addihoii~p^>f r.T-zr-„ \\~r>,~~~e.\ \<- -7 c°^1"S^lmil\ai^5^-~=--,.l., 'Bolivar1 MAP OF NEW YORK ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. f, (Copyright, 1891 , by Moses King Corporation.) SCALB OP STATUTE MILKS. 47 MILES TO THE I Trent l' from NEW YORK. 49I ¦fa. z oHI O> or z> MAP OT NORTH CAROLINA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1891 by Moses King Corporation,) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES. 73 MILES TO THE INCH 4° Longitude West 3° from Washin, NORTH DAKOTA. 493 494 Ohio. For OKLAHOMA see page 602. TajcttB - 1 ^MaWpelicr *>" .r>"'7&™f1*chbo'd Edgcr/ton rNapoleoiw^A*— p^-jp^ ; *? 6 Paulding y^Leipsib/ \T«cC ^Pu^nBay^, | iattj,r«, ^-SS7*' /Findl; Clo^^— GltiadorrW^ i ft» ^"'"i^^^'nViaSCAfe' >^le*r*V^uioafiUeVal,c«iin\^l"'.a,J?;Xm :«S^r%g^'i i"W-ATc3 ;atonl^ ^andria Xelri l&Wi _ 'Elyria/C Oberlln^ /Tiffi n \M' "e N- £*/* -^^ Chicago, — t= w ^BDaotf* Ashtabi M Jwcffcrijo Cbe^ryYa!!^' .five* '. Cuyatiofgnf _„ (* ^Yoflngttilwir* "Urf Ac^!s^ 'X^ST-^ ^un"^^ciin7Jnr7>«^V3^3IT ,0 iMt-GilBi ida/™j/?fw*°yCa\rdii>gteD , , *V/ItfcUiwood/ \ *\_^S *>1 *¦' l/anclfavill ,„2 7 dV\ M/P*™* r , . -IP,,,,,. udonfm.vallaffjunj^a^caffif.lltoa'^., SteupeMvilM I Cnrli7P V. iMa I „ JS.Charlralon/ |H TMK^aoorf^T B^AclS (f v>* 1 'VVV H ' ^^ Ci rcle* , lle^r*v MUirrayll ' i !*b" "X; Vll', 'tftfi '7W ^ J^Z.Y W. 1J rfJdSbarpBburg " lO. V ,8®' I TOSKPfaijlrrtWLcb?nin^^ Greenfleltjl k c>>^ 1 /*Acielpar JJ' W^+^fcC lr/ffib&&* jbjAlLl,)-! /Sardinia PiketonM-;^ — irr~ ttMcArtL .¦^Jli'ddlcpor- .VTntorr jS* f/ \ -^ \& ^SsAVinulieatcr' — C° Jr*-\ * W^f^Oco^town ^''^"V; IV-LncaaYaie,,,, , "WUnion ^*H>(1 * yGyalllpohs ^Plc^ °" Portsmoulr^*-' May3viUc^^P;Trl!^i*<'y ' Vancclmrg1 T' " Greenup" K^ JV MAP OF OHIO * ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1691 by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES. 0 10 20 6BIMI1.ES TO THE INCH _L Longitude MAP OF OREGON ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook Tillami of the United Siates c.iooAoui BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. < Copyright, 1891 , by Moses King Corporation) SCALE OF STATUTE MILES J TO EO 30 40 GO 60 70 BO 90 496 PENNSYLVANIA. Longitude 79" West * V <*. ""V, "»<¦» East Bn: Edin,.uri^jN^f^Nevv-C_3stl& Wpr vaui i . MahoaiaA E sle Valley | f 3 East Greece Lake Wattoburg£2. JT^ jOBugv oWVOorydon1 Bpringville ' I ay ton w o_"l J MeKeanO „' °E«flft>ringl!tld ', SpMtfald/Au.dj.lS.r' -flbl0»/'/»- Idlabare0 leaver Can.l I J Drakes Mills o jl ? \ I CwnbrldEebe, SpriJigberoA 1 ¦ /"-o* ^ TvSaegers «wn >-¦ P| /oifiksonbure^T Townville n ^^0QvmV?*y!'""!rf#X'' ^^ ^FN^etmore i AlihcsviUe liMeadville A. fi^^^.ilKf Cherry GroTe?PAei Iheffield Jo. Augustan 0 Clara Millie EarrlBonVall niysaea^ '3 oBta&hf °tornS*S alley 'Eldrod^^^ta^lehoufle ike Cent* S^-MillpOT *=S^/-5»vBpring0r. " " . ^/ """JIP ""Co* ~ " illage ^ ?T ^tj^^hi^!^//\KinZ^y FaXnersfraUey/^VPurtlePt, ~ tartanlS^^*-^^)^!^!--*^^^^ \| ^>fiig Shanty ^mAlhP° .-oE-SuAih^... ""J */^Y°*8"meJ58lonBhap^ Mt.Alloat "LX\ ,fc?«*«Itf»W Centrerille A *//&' •kN-Clarendar. Buttsvillay? . /OHaflbW BoVulatta' raml^Sfe/ i^'^^-"""^/^ /» 7\<> Wright.. larraane/V F°S,kHo:>^ Oftrp Brjm Bacta^rtMV'»>Y^T™^M bS™J\ hvSS. XoSa^t^' . >. Dd?""«»«riHefw.Hleka9i3SB HiBkorf~^ JjK**, ,?*T5? A Shipper. Sutler, **^Sfe #^^%^bS- ^ ^ ^ 'Amaaa Cwr^lomO^^^I *^,^t^-^eDrlli£s<° /Byroitown ^S.feajderymepwfeDfrT-jj.fcX Eagle Rock J*"*""1"^ h/s^sf^,B* Emporium V " Comet Rath bun DaguacahoSla D , ^StcrlinglRun / Benneicrte — ^¦^'^.K T Caledonia^ r . Iroekportf^&' Sinnemahoning' Crenshaw ^^Weedville WiatM* *¦«$* -^^.Penfleld N, NBirchXjjliind, /,Babul«r>-v V Poueradale Du Boi5 1 \ Karthni: ^^)^^0ltockton\ F>iin^v m>. r.Mmvllle t3yieaylUty/& oi-uH-eraburt! Slaftai ¦-¦'¦¦- < ¦ffoodiftnd.K>'«rto' Qlen OLcidy* Coal H ill , iSev Bethlehem Big Itun . Wa^ lKieaic ^2e^r52r^Efi2B,° /Gaziai "if ilia C fRnmey Tiyloratowri^ jngabela . BenUeyvjlleUCj^ll* ,»eimont\oBrancnJo; ^¦- \New Al«4ndria 1 Latrobe rA'New Florence ^-O^^Derry Sta. reejBeatty\. ojiius y,, fs^^^^Pleaaia? >J Ligonier jWcBt sYewtoi Unity MtPleaeant Jennerstowu ^Ebenshiirg-, CallfinW\ ^^WtBeWel&m; \F /a.'Mscottdalo JoneaMill Q •3" ^EToraoa Ku^o Sipeaville Henrietl J)a,ld.7lll.°^'Ho]li0Jpll§.|W«»lburj ¦ Hoii^Ero'Aluin Bani ^ Hoo7eravaii5t&fiQ. q Eiddlesbji1. SpriiliSoDen X-.00™1 " „,_„Huntlngdj Johnstown OElton^'; ) RuninieJ :bro r^Paria' Cypher , 1 Hustontowno Everett KnoLsyillc" i Timeo A^H"11!? I Bycamore^^o1118 I Briatoria oOakForeat ? da lawnri Green 0 Hoovers Run urn. B«*HiUH^..is Mo Connellaburg o WebBter & Confluence^ learrllleo °:Rainaburg '" Purcell Heei n/ o . F/anklln M ills \8°ElbinavUle PENNSYLVANIA. 497 Longitude 70" West MAP OF PENNSYLVANIA ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. (Copyright, 1801, by Mosea King Corporation.) SCALE OP STATUTE MILES Athcnffl Milan |, ByriUe^syo- 'A. Maagfieid Btokesdale /Charleston^ ¦ Maincsburg ,W#l»roV „ « -TOU-EOT J »«a~W„ ^£f» M, Br/^. dsiump Barclay Ogdenabnrg Ho. a Callicaoa Q eat Bend^ a.. T Jallatead 0Bnropyila, SilmL-f— E . sWja. ° (~r('k Vr?rf"4.W^kCon- ?""^»_ I J™t|%<7 6pri^rwuf""'o iV B*»mU H^antM t "!^S3» t&VlUalaaiiE^^^fS / 1 fi^"., \P"i0,'J'1* M"""™" Fall Br/o5k""^^ r4r'p\ OlK«\ t -,, lo fa-WObflord** Bethany 0 HewAlbanA MeheopanycWJarlawfill VCarbondalwprr^^™- . R °, Eldredaville ,A Elwell0 ^\JVrlfL»Plnine\ Daltou ^A/Jarroj1- Mclnlyrej ismpWMIe <* Berniee """""' fTJii "to^-^" S^eekTIll>/'Hawle7<--?- „ .,».- /x^s n.a, / ^-/~ Y_^>&£WleA, oBellaSjlvat/ "ii \JrZmT^uax/*- «SS>'°^*'jl*'i/Maldrli?- . a^,. DSj-ta, ££^^ °Bowe^ ,,S^ nt0nj^7^HaraUU?iV>' f] MaUan.ra^ nortaJ^'^nBBtorf-t'-M-XJS^ J^uSx jHWsl.y'*"" o\. o Newfoundland ffhite Mills ^^^" /Pittston plains ^p Spring Brtpk PajluiHeqX oAnalomy " Bta.' hOr. _ °01intondale *»*&, ^is^ vTurbbf^' aUootown 1» Milton Bnp^S — ^^CatawiBaa, K lines Grove v .OHmhe&^Sr^^^^^^oV^ ipVernvfiSW aterGajH hi^fflaSaileQ1'"*' Poa$|a^l2 WgW.rt -'Wffl*5<^fS5iArgTU' ^Trevorton , inoY JonGw <$&£" ' ***** lerndon V^~ ^fiP'S&S.rw.ii, , Kile. i,5»-,,'''.IS^^»- ' --""a^.^^efretoglcflburg "^ ,,u Vlrl'- - ^p'^/Kemp ton 'or( biifton Allenpwn, s. , _ "'""oad" . iP (Juakertbya H.a.r.rill*^^:/,- >-, floekertaa paTSiJ, ° How hS£N(* *«" " lT.,rora ^SollerBrlllo j^ffiol|JalcBYlllo/A" _..piinina P. 3o/ajorton, Sld£lton ^T7Com"a1 /DeaTOr IPottstpwn^Stf BayAaford..7VN-W»'M §.11.., a j, A IMt-aWa f SX St.pV, Spring Cy^ 't TO^jftJ — VT o-' ,^»5°l-*EoaWrrlllei> J"^sf^ Ork t^jJlll"l"'^tS«™hnit tj-ySWatcliesler^Jla' . 'kedla^' o.Thot ^o. /oMontAlta..^ bare jJPairlleia .w*^113,. .w^^Bo^f2Lfe^!^#-'2s® ! Dine Rid^c Summit ' «aburgc mndMr^.Q^rl7vill8 „ I KJnnettjM-^X* UplM 63v .1 qy Longitude V East RHODE ISLAND. SOUTH CAROLINA. 499 ATI 7itew>rS? Frederick V K° °° "V H/SuahlorSf Bl^>f/*,Bri'to°IrV'a(ipe(o|ri ..>.*%. ttwa»?a; ¦—ft .¥ kl Rudolph, iMansfleld^ |E { J *\,l Ion &.* ¦* 11a* VfeiSrone " »v4^,|\M'rT. a>s^yv r-» Ferney \ ' PAUL I *l l^y iWcnA IsffiihlMll6^**^ fMktooV ^'hvlllo^lj/elM,. "iJooda ' ¦*"<>- Wore^— 2-fJ- i. i A f LaFoon. I I / .lj ,t\Gardon,_fi£' ,<1>9" ^."a—T!T" ' ^V 4.1. ..I I .IAA»Hta "^TliftlSwn . I ni.» WnVPnlwt_Tl flron1 MoM, jurtoo_J:raV^_J!LlSBpJi£J^J*^oH'WE l^own^^sg^f /Jrapdon „ | Naples CjVHaaMll ¦ lUwood ?^LakQ| ¦ Cfl •Vleimajjfn,,,,,,,. nkrjempsii ^•" xcw yii ' t i i .\\u-j-- i -Vienna rif n—nnfe r liDempsiar I -., /-=#>^»"i««a W„a»^"t"l/^^«aafi^^,V™» O^ Boalllai \ ..Vn.LhWT JB^ H& <\ "'% I w i*\ vvS^&v r> *^rJB™«fwroo a«*5^f3 Vu^K^f-t-'^"^'"^ ,t- v S \nUrQnCaVouAo jTJV 'Volga? O) Ea^ioud\>, ^S^^ljOldhai ¦ AVRomona T.'..l- ..... :ii..:- Mtt\ >n\!.i-Mf ^yjiakertill. Ilgpf^f^ 'V%4 ^ 1 « ^ir^kSl Mnriett* |> |J Vr^dgemontJ g| ¦Pldsfefl Falling OUvet , map of SOUTH DAKOTA Engravedfor King's Handbook of the United States BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO AND NEW YORK. ( Copyright, 1891, by Motet King Corporation.) 63 WILES TO THE INCH 2S3 .Longitude /£•' Hurley & Vt Canton? ^Mcnno YlKi FairvietriS CeiitroillerTV,,, Edentf HervUle Ifcw6s]onI^!^ *J 22° Washington ussouRi B R Poneai Sioux' "Ik Poli^t jfefleraoa For TEXAS see next page UTAH from HI Greenwich Longitude 00° West from 98 J Greenwich 97 ^H ^ Cantonment^ HenSyesfli \ Carthage Arkansas Cyi\ Joplin. nKavr Agency T™ * \\ « . - f?JJs^ef3WYANO0TT£ Whubka bo^^ay^S^g^^Cf M d> o (White 1 . Bcrftonville .Caltoosad/ \ d Chouteau Q|jjg fcSowardr5' i/O^Si"0. 0 ff Afonett - o. i , /v^fTO.w. «,. ComefenV '•JrH.'J, H—li,t~ rl SorraaWlilTOB'/ES I ^ Urg/Bon* Canadran " ^y^\ ytr, -Wilbartoft n""..." ... ¦ * I J ^ ! [ Military ,^[ ¦ j-. 3 0*iwb«rf WynWa^hfJ IMC f/savanna ^ome J ~A Ulster H^D\ I T DouehertyM° Wetmore jJ&V. A ftT I 0 N fa \ £/{!?&]£$ j * /v H 7" /Tip « TisnoMtsGO :/^T ?K°a°ma (~ j r. r, i iiau .'VTIf.-IH.'MlM.o . Ber wyiyi V^j^—j 1 "/ Ardmored L 7v"^>v i +J F5 OverbrookJ ^<^^\ j /Caddo| h Antlers ¦\ Good! and i DoafeJvjUe ^Henrietta*^ Monto ^^ J[ L. Durafni Fenfto ^LajM' 7 Van ttUtrrneV^J^ 1EX, /Pninl.5 -n I *^>^ 'Seyrnour Vcher Howie*. Chic^ * "^KinntYfcdSS Decatur^ DenOonA! &—_. Ehomt- ft / /jc/NI Piano \ 4nJn Canton V/6'* 'Ranger " WJ^S M^^? W~^W*\ ^KeiriP . Tytod& / . BtephenTille>1 gV^_ 1 Vi^tfo^fJft, ^W n MorganXlBlumi_JlL!-^---r?^or5 i 3a ^Merldiany^ -^. Clift«i> NechesvillcC rV^pupHendcf°n_ *Hubbalrd Palfsfin^ Fairfitld nvllle I TiuahaJ>( .j, C TimpSj Cairo lcoldBpr?[7BbePI-,erd itgoifceryp IWillia / k n ,iVSvi2$a^Conws>™,loveW Hardin . - sJlGiddingaXBtenrrAm r |\ / \f*~- r~\ *t |17'*'''PHtefttl iHa/rtleyl — - - '~~f£ iSaitM-c L rloijStqj^ Sartine Paaawfi— **f^l :-Beaumont\j Liberty u^lJCh™™,S^GALVESTON| % MAP OF TEXAS, OKLAHOMA AND INDIAN TERRITORY ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States, Jatamoro^Bfo^hSV He BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. r. [Copyright, 189J, by Moses King Corporation.) SCALE OT STATUTB MILES. 10 20 30 40 50 100 . 150 92 WILES TO THE INCH Longitude 20" IFesi from 19° BWimflton zg> zHm31HO31< o *r >IO > o 504 VIRGINIA and WEST VIRGINIA. For W1SCON8IN see page 482. Z Cambridge Waverly l^as I ;oP!alrviciT L Aladursoa &jioiii-i«ij;0rB |\VS»linB~ ^WfllBburg/ *oBrtbanr FL^^1inadH|pWa 1 , ElnjOrOTB #&*/. .. «!Daltai VMoaniDBtoiij Kockrlll, *•**? ^.s, "Willow Islutf o-Ai ? Parke rsl)urg--v7T>— - ¦¦¦ ¦- ¦-¦ \Volcanoo ' rffeb, Central St alio., f/C/-^.d„F,em|ffKtoV TfiC »n 9,Man-aT»TiHe Jv>E.iiz«t>tHii )~Tr'oT j'~°" """"f1-^"'""""'1"100 '|rd Cy '^boBurninc Springif^131"^? ^jg*^. StSGoorgc ®-^ P^^easant Kipley _ ¦lingtijn^f Montr/ «pEoanoke Muofcn.VnnSri'l-.-^ ' "WKp Oande epencerl a 3nIaontaCl°™»»' ° oSe-'»'' r !k iJ3ff-» '- ^WBadBaaaa ^™«* oSpni, Oarf.a rt" *J|3£'™°T{'>S2fP'"1'lK.M.o K _ ., ^^c.tepvi.^^jn.^dCj^ ^OlajfO-H. AddlBOL. UbanCS^gCHAHlESTOK ChiltonO Al° Maiden "Kendalia, ":rj«pow«lt^l,orB gjelra J,, 1 SasjS^H^^Cannelton f-oajl Valley H/untinMlon, YtaoCafentrerille/ Hamlin jjr( "-- - tTWayneC. 2Tort\G»>* i Spifrloekville o^ergnaoSi 3 adiaonf ~"™ift *&& X ldsburg MorAwntwn Rock/CaveHuttonflyij D jVLlcydaviUe ,|6elbyviik jf j'jW Shocked Button • bjjewlon ^LitUc Birth j K^moTftl °J^ Nicholas C.H. (Big Stone —, \ Gap S Lebanon—- ^ab Orcbiirdf Gin*>n?ille \'"j o JfcCaperton Clintonrille V0akHll'14p— i^Tyree ° Frankfoi 06 iV Blue Sulphur Sprfl. , Mt-Nebo^-JBioh^) f* Mount Lookout ¦¦^M ^.,/*(^\>BaileysTiUe^S^toeviilei"Bo^ CreeO J^l_ CD S A 4^ / P^V^k Sprintf*™^ J Blwk8altSulphur^]^tj0'RiplCB e^NT?'i,h°"'!fi^°c»<'»".^---sS:Si*®,''I,»r,» Sal?™0**/ aJ^^^.Bl,u^^&c.V^S^aXH0B^Wg#3*^VBlackflburg TO~5l££lfl-* Clear^Jreek J/» iS6,} -o .i = Qiiinnimontl^l JUc** "* c ^lih OH |[i*^^^^^W-^|Jij5>» lloiMe a L leott'H .* " V^V^.I'sJSiaolaNatnr, -Onion1 8™M*WIC,, « B '"' "• 'Tunis incastle,'o>/ /¦£&' Mm Sffi' i .ualburg t CO 1 «B» /„, in onancocarb / 3 , .. ^Klny&QuecVtrkCarteTaOreckpuAgoteS^^/ Taauatvlllo 4in^&?"HUtbllnnftt*WmO^® **1" I'^Ca / "Wachapreogue tt*C£m^lVaala'"ao oB&JyBottoin Bo laKl,/, „„1 £, A illahn— l/.a/ler.Xr7^iw^Provlacndi"V; „ its,, .^i/.ih.n fl TW,/--«anJ CheStcrleld. rfeL. rh-TpS ^^n'S^X. to JfiL ^tiT k ^} lborolc^^^-A^lMrniuda Hundred^ A^C. H7^ pfr&JHay wooo £ jfEa^j^flo ^ Amelia"! / <^«\E35S«!W%Ca''fV, •.\ptatlen q^ i.jV" ^°$S^PeWtsX1U I ^aredX ./SurS5^A /&r I Uf&pa Charles BaileyrUle >'™ *•?"" Mi&Ke ^DimafflU C.HX"Zt V rVHiV ^OiaPoiuttonifcrt ^ IkT'eBranch I ° ^S San*$^^stony ltfeek»»W.I.,ll.ld ^.^abt^.jiWSl&M, .„„. <,,.„ gTord "LunonlmUc.H. ^,,1^-37-?/ affiiW N\SV» SElSjiWi ""P" "'"'" Ft.Mltohelol0oluBlbul „„„ JK"^J, 3rrB°rUilrj,W1'u™*'» OhaaaCy. ^"fe^pieaaSsMd^ 4. WWdWstaX^ L^ttvCSs^Jlel/fl^cId^^^^Cotlrtmnd PQriil »U II ^SVi r^Dra kera Branch 1° ~"~\ ^^""ajstony indolnBST Mo"T gT"d "InnonbnVgO.H. ^v.ton JHc«b. SeyW^ l»t«ltoneU L. „ ^V~ ,stoh,fc2?i>8CNt^22l^'S>iff<>ll< '{nictor! "« •* » *^"larc8ville ^^[ FljnkUn .aCvftlcyvillo I ft. I* 'e\ Wklnfl^J ^Vf A Northweatt, [N*/ 506 VERMONT and NEW HAMPSHIRE. For VIRGINIA see preceding page. Longitude iV&r t\" ^Washington £QNJr\ Iale"!Norff /St. Albans MAP OF VERMONT AND NEW HAMPSHIRE ^aniliara, ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP A CO., BUFFALO, N Y. Copyright, 1801, by Moses King Corporation) 33 HILES. TO THE INCH. 4 Mcmph rtmagog BeachgrTalb Canaano' Norton Hilla „ J oil and, tpott Troy /)„, *%w TestfieW IVkChMlHjon /° Lemingt< CoTerftryF VJpE.Ch/arleston 'ISLrJIP^S^fci^A^ AyP^^SSj!!6 aEScn / Glover o mbgHgs'Jc.SS^ohnibii|Cra.wMiiy Sutton '"¦g»"o J^|e™KlS'4vNS*'»4\» Jflch-IP^SfLU o . ^R^ogX- fcatmore d Newark K\i \ Brunsw.ckTtVr | ^ EastllavejB V \3tp«forf JcBurkeMaidat<™e"\A E}tark ^a^GuIldha.yrStfin Granby |pfjrtbumberlal ilea titer*?] -'41 CAMELS HOMBR«rar/&--*.^ 'iBN-FerriBburg 'MoSpefo ,",3 yF,^?frlfck.<.^&§°\*Vl Vmcnnai i^Oj^JTUUtBfiel plincc ddlaou^ ' l ¦jbVejbrid^ & M i dd le[bufy$ BridEortVEJiidiii^ CorniraHqV ° °^' OBntintrtc iboreham .¦ i.w-clra flrhavenTril\ Aam^iKSToi. . ... .A- ^JraH\G ;- ~ 'i\\,Mti Hartland//Plainfield ToultnejiJ^CIarcudir/', XoS^'t, PI mouth .Tf ° °Meriden " nn'Pnii.i-ntWjl'' rCuttinfeWlle I QftCorn.ah ^-nSprs [TrWaUlinsfordBeadiogO^V ndsoi Ukthel Vood -.._ ^ Gran thai _ _ JrttmoUyBrorriaaV'. fl° Crojdon WallinsrorilVLudlow ,MechanicaTille\iao^aTen lisb Daub: . . N.Dorect - , J/. Dorset |, Hv^J .^E-Porscl oS Teaebam _"., '.Marsh fit: Id j^dford^TN!: „ ) 'fo — I, r JgL. Corinth. tfren ill Villa! ,lyme| >/ Plymoutrfi^ rpton f £ray-.&*»wipee^--crFrankmnl "J™1 o«"",Sul™#-str — ^*TP New London *l) / GjlmantoulrAn Works J^ S— ^Kjnhpee Salisbury Cmt.V ONortHfieldlDepottFarminMonS ^^fesSffigSIiil Canterbury p cRaB.=,.5,J ? oPcru ' ^ondonderr f (frnchesler jr-Jejry jjfe a bBraticn^SW^KSonW"?" ;a.d*reo Vtedo %\WtonaEi»er|W ' o"»(P» 7 W.A jlicton J I !.«.!»«<' n,.iuin-u pilla'A* °AlflT*!.i, ru , Arlington^ lalbi We*faneTPutnay7| BellownPalli Athens0 i'c»',wni™i-> WeStminaterm Walpole v^vTowoshcndfff ¦ (- ^ Wardsbora ^&klm3\ Suri4 BrattieW Si>„™,nni 7\~~^'T o oHalifax HY| Mancheste ' .field Bedford1: V oLyndeboro /Pcierborol TciapleO bttryJt tsmoutg s ailllaoJ f3reenr.ll.crj. MaShlJ^V^adaon^en^Yr,,j>/\ ¦< . Jjongitude 12S* Vancouver; New"* MAP OF WASHINGTON ENGRAVED FOR King's Handbook of the United States?^ \j c BY MATTHEWS, NORTHRUP & CO., BUFFALO, N. Y. ^ ^W ' i ^P fiiis^ ¦e-- LAKE TAHOE. gold-seekers made an almost continuous line across the continent, the first mail line between Sacramento and Salt- Lake City (750 miles) was not established until 185 1. A single mule sufficed for the transportation of the monthly mail. This primitive conveyance for carrying letters was confiscated by a Shoshone Indian, who at the same time added the scalp of the carrier to his collection of curiosi ties. In winter a Norwegian, known far and wide as "Snowshoe Thompson," carried the mails across the Sierras, and his ten-foot snow shoes were gifted with the departmental requirements of "certainty, celerity and security." Crandall's Pioneer Stage Line from Placer- ville to Genoa began running in 1857 ; and the first over land mail stage arrived in 1858. In i860 the Pony Ex press was established. In 1858 the black lumps which bothered the few gold- washers in Gold-Hill Gulch and the canon at the base of Mount Davidson, were assayed by two miners named Grosch, who possessed some knowledge of metallurgy, and pronounced to be rich sulphurets of silver. The following year the rush to Washoe fairly commenced. Early in 1861 Congress organized the Territory of Nevada, out of Utah, west of 1500. In the'vigorous and picturesque language of the Hon. Thomas Fitch, of Reno: "It is difficult even for one who was himself a part of the times of which he writes to give an adequate idea of life in Nevada in 1862-4. Over 50,000 of the brightest, bravest, most generous, enterprising and energetic men on earth, the Knight Paladins who challenged the brute forces of Nature to combat, the soldiers who, possessed with the aura sacra fames, faced the storm and the savage, the desert and disease, swarmed around the base of Mount Davidson and reached out to Aurora, to Reese River and to the mountains of the Humboldt. Crawling like huge flies over the bald skulls of lofty mountains, plodding across alkaline deserts which pulsed with deluding mirages under the throbbing light, camping amid rocks worn out in the conflicts of chaos, and thrown away upon the world, smiting with pick and hammer the adamantine doors of the earth's treasure-chambers, these pioneers engaged in their self-imposed task. Readier with rifle or revolver than with scriptural quotation was the Nevadan of those days, and readier still with his "coin-sack" at the call of distress. Under the blue shirt might be found sometimes a graduate of Yale, and sometimes a fugitive from Texas. No man assumed to be better than his neighbor, and no man conceded his inferiority to anybody. Freiberg graduates and sheep-herders, divinity students and Cornish miners, farmer boys and ex-judges of the Supreme Court were all treasure-seekers together, and a blow of a pick might make or unmake fortunes, and equalize the beggars and the princes of this Aladdin's cave. Some found fortunes and some found unmarked graves upon the hillsides, and many have since become rich or renowned in other fields, but not one among them all will not remember with affection the days way back ' in the sixties, ' when he spun the woof of rainbows in the Sage-brush State." By 1 86 1 quartz mills were erected and ma chinery transported across the mountains, and the white metal commenced to pour in vast and increasing volume into the channels of the world's commerce, sustaining the credit of the Nation in the hour of its peril. During the War of the Rebellion the senti ment of the people of Nevada was overwhelm- pyramid lake. mgly loyal. The Territory raised six companies THE STATE OF NEVADA. 533 SODA LAKE. of infantry and six companies of cavalry, num bering 1, 180 men. Since the depreciation of silver, Nevada has lost greatly in popula tion, and seems to present the strange anomaly of a dying American State. Its main hope seems to be in the remonetization of silver, and a consequent new life in the mining dis tricts, or else in the development of great irrigation systems. The Name of the State comes from its magnificent Western frontier. From their resemblance to the serrated chain of Spanish Granada, these mountains are called the Sierra Nevada, or "Mountains Snowy," although the snow-fall, except on the high ranges, is not great, and thermometrical reports show that Nevada possesses about the same winter cli mate as Baltimore, and a summer climate analogous to that of Nova Scotia. The popular names of Nevada are The Silver State, from its chief product : The Sage-Brush State, because the valleys and hills are covered with the wild artemisia ; and The Battle-Bom State, commemorating its admission to the Union during the Civil War. The Arms of Nevada include a railway train in a mountain gorge ; a plow, sheaf and sickle ; two mountains, with a quartz-mill, a tunnel to the silver leads, a miner running out a car-load of ore, and a team loaded with ore for the mill. In the background are snowy mountains, with the sun rising. The motto is : All for our Country. The Governors of Nevada have been: Territorial: Jas. W. Nye, 1861-4. State: Jas. W. Nye (acting), 1864; Henry G. Blasdel, 1864-71 ; Luther R. Bradley, 1871-9; John H. Kinkead, 1879-83 ; Jewett W. Adams, 1883-7 • Christopher C. Stevenson, 1887-91. Descriptive. — Nevada occupies a part of the great interior basin between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, in which the rainfall is generally confined to the months between Novembe»and May, thus rendering agriculture (except in the narrow valleys along the streams) uncertain, and therefore unprofitable, save where facilities exist for irrigation. Nearly a hundred mountain ranges traverse the plateau, some of them reaching a length of 100 miles and a height of from 9,000 to 12,000 feet, and generally trending north and south. These ridges are covered rather sparsely with pinon or nut-pine, and occasional groves of white-pine, with some oak and cedar and locust ; and along the streams maybe found cotton- woods. The ranges are from six to 20 miles wide, and long valleys of similar width separate them, occasionally broken by solitary buttes, or expanding into broad basins covered with sage brush, sand-grass, cacti, mesquite and greasewood. There are millions of acres of sage brush land, the soil of which is rich in plant-food and abounding with elements of fertility, but which, in the absence of facilities for water storage and distribution, have always been classed as arid and useless. The Great Basin is supposed to have once formed part of a sea of several hundred thousand square miles in area, and when the ocean water drained off, the great plateau remained, 4,500 feet above the tide. The Colorado River flows along the south eastern border for 150 miles, a rapid and powerful stream, half a mile wide, and navigable under favoring circumstances from Rioville to the Gulf of California. The El-Dorado Canon is twelve miles long and 200 to 600 feet deep, and the great river rushes through it with tremendous speed. Aside from the Rio Virgen and two creeks (tributaries of the Colorado) in the southeast, and the Owyhee and Bruneau (tributaries of the Snake River) in the northeast, all the rivers of Nevada lose themselves in the sandy soil of the valleys, or empty into sinks, some of WINNEMUCCA LAKE. 534 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. m^ which are stagnant and alkaline, while others remain fresh and sweet, being probably drained by under ground rivers. Thus the'rapid Truckee, flowing from Lake Tahoe and Lake Donner, high up in the Sierras, discharges into Pyramid Lake after a course of 97 miles, through spruce and pine forests for half the dis tance and through meadow lands for the remainder. Walker River rushes cold and clear from the Sierra, and feeds the mountain-walled Walker Lake, 30 miles long and five to 15 miles wide (350 square miles) and abounding in fish. Carson River issues from lakes in the Sierra, and winds 200 miles, part of the way through canons and pine forests, and part of the way over sage-brush plains, to the Carson Sinks, which are ordinarily 25 by ten miles in area, and in the wet season achieve a length of 80 miles. The Humboldt rises in the Goose-Creek Range, and flows southwesterly 350 miles, descending 3,000 feet and continually shrinking in volume, until it reaches its sink, called Humboldt Lake, 30 by ten miles in area. In high water Humboldt Lake runs into the lower Carson Sink, through a long slough. Reese River, in eastern Nevada, is swallowed by the thirsty land after a course of 140 miles ; Quinn River after 80 miles, and the Amargosa River after 150 miles. Pyramid Lake is 35 by twelve miles in area, 4,000 feet above the sea, and in many places of great depth. It is surrounded by high mountains, and marked by a pyramidal rocky island 600 feet in height. Near this lake occurred the disastrous battle of May, i860, where an attacking force of 105 Nevada volunteers was defeated, with a loss of half their number, by the Pah-Ute Indians. Lake Winnemucca (also a sink), 18 by eight miles in area, lies east of Pyramid Lake. In high water Franklin and Ruby Lakes are united, and form a brackish reservoir 15 IBSIPJEIililSb^-'t't' miles long. Washoe Lake lies close to the Sierra, and covers an area of 18 square miles. Its waters are shallow and slightly alkaline, though it is filled with small fish called chubs. One third of the beautiful Lake Tahoe lies in Nevada, the remainder being within the borders of California. IN THE ™mboldt mountains. The unalkaline lakes and streams contain many trout, and some of them have also been stocked with catfish, perch, bass, terrapin, salmon and salmon trout. Around them beavers and otters dwell ; and over the plains roam myriads of jack-rabbits and coyotes, and a few lynxes and cougars, and black, cinnamon and grizzly bears. Antelopes and mountain- sheep haunt the remote highlands ; and elk, deer, and moose are sometimes seen. Grouse, or sage-hens, are abundant, wild turkeys are sometimes found on the mountains, quail are plentiful, and the sinks and lakes swarm with wild geese, ducks, plover and every variety of water-fowl. North of Pyramid Lake is the Black-Rock Desert, or Mud Lakes, a tract of nearly 1,000 square miles, in summer a barren level of alkali, and in winter covered in places with shallow water. There are many other "mud" lakes in Nevada, in basin-shaped valleys of impervious stiff clay. The Climate is remarkably dry and healthful, and meat may be cured in the open air. The clouds from the Pacific are broken upon the moun- humboldt valley. tains, which receive a much larger rainfall than the THE STATE OF NEVADA. 535 HYDRAULIC MINING. valleys; and fogs are unknown. In summer the thermometer rarely rises above 950, and the nights are cooled by mountain breezes. The winter tem perature hardly ever reaches zero on the plains. In the east cloud-bursts are of frequent occurrence; in the west strong southwest winds prevail. In the south the mean annual temperature is 700, with a yearly rain fall of five inches ; in the north and west the tempera ture is 550, and the rainfall 15 inches. On the plains mirages often spread their delusive pictures, and sand storms and whirling sand pillars sometimes bring dis comfort to the traveller. Pulmonary and bronchial troubles and asthma are almost unknown, for the air is so pure and dry that it acts as an antiseptic. Farming. — By the construction of storage reservoirs in natural mountain basins, and of irrigating canals, Nevada may be made a prosperous agricultural State; but much of the land is now unoccupied, and to the superficial observer arid. In the irrigable valleys of the west now under cultivation, barley, wheat and oats are the chief cereal crops. The root vegetables, especially potatoes, are prolific in yield. Honey is made in considerable quantities, and the dairy products are growing in extent. There are 300,000 apple trees, and a great number of almond, pear, peach, and plum trees, all of which bear excel lent fruit. Berries and small fruits grow luxuriantly. There are 500,000 sheep and 400,000 cattle in Nevada, in a climate free from all blizzards and pesti lent heats. San Francisco is the market for the local beef and mutton. Minerals. — Nevada has 120 surveyed localities of mineral springs, hot and cold, salt and borax, sulphur and iron, some of them containing infusions of arsenic, mercury and other minerals as well. Steamboat Springs, eleven miles south of Reno, are a series of hot foun tains, with puffs and jets of steam continually leaping from crevices in the rocks. The temperature is 2120. At Elko the water of the hot springs has a singular resemblance in taste to chicken broth. At Carson, at Lawton's, and on the Truckee River and at other points large swimming-baths of stone have been constructed. In Smoky Valley a caldron like boiling spring rushes from the earth. Hot Creek is the steaming outlet of a group of thermal springs in Nye County. Hinds' Hot Springs, ten miles from Wellington's, the hot springs east of Wadsworth, and the Golconda, Kyle's, Bruffy's and Shaw's hot springs are well known to Nevadans. Many of these properties are improved by hotels and cottages for health-seekers, which receive patronage from well-to-do citizens of Nevada. Bullion is the chief product of Nevada, which has sent out over $560,000,000 in silver and gold. In 1877-8 alone the product was $87,000,000.^ The bullion produced on the Comstock is in proportion of value about two thirds of silver and one third of gold. Above $200,000,000 have been shipped from the Comstock lodes, of which the famous California and Consolidated- Virginia mines yielded $130,000,- 000. After 1875 the mines became less productive. The ores are chlorides and sulphurets. The Sutro HUMBOLDT RANGE : ARCH/£AN BLUFFS. 536 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. PLIOCENE BLUFFS. Tunnel, 20, ooo feet long, drains the mines to a depth of 1,600 feet. The hoisting works over the mines are the largest and most complete in the world. After the apparent exhaustion of the Comstock bonanzas, thousands of men left Nevada. In 1886-8, new and valuable deposits were uncovered, and improved methods were devised, which permitted the work ing of the low-grade ores. The bullion- product of the State was $9,000,000 in The deposits of gold, silver, copper 1886, $10,200,000 in 1887, and $12,306,000 in iS and lead in the interior mountains have been mined with success. Salt appears in many localities, and near the Rio Virgen forms a ridge two miles long and 100 feet thick, of pure, hard and transparent salt. There are thousands of acres of salt beds, of great depth, and white as snow. The soda lakes of Churchill County produce great quantities of soda. Borax is produced in the same vicinity, and in Esmeralda County is found in inexhaustible marshes and lakes. The mineral wealth of Nevada includes the pure sulphur of Humboldt, coal of Pancake Mountain, cinnabar of Washoe, copper of Lander and White Pine, antimony, arsenic, cobalt and nickel of Churchill ; nitre, isinglass, manganese, alum, kaolin, iron and gypsum of Lyon ; mica of Elko, and graphite of Grimsby. The Governor and executive officers are elected every four years. The Legislature contains 18 four-years' senators and 36 two-years' assemblymen. The Supreme Court has three elective justices ; and there are nine elective district judges. The State House is at Carson City, in Eagle Valley, and contains the State Library, of 22,000 volumes. It stands on a shady grassy square of four blocks. The finest building in Nevada is that belonging to the United States, at Carson City. The State Prison is near Carson ; the Insane Asylum (163 inmates), at Reno; and the State Orphan Home, at Carson City. The State school- fund exceeds $1,100,000. The Nevada State University, founded in 1874, is at Reno, and has seven teachers and 1 1 5 students. The Agricultural Experiment Station is at Reno. Ne vada contains 9,000 Indians, one tenth of whom can speak English ; 4,5°° are Pah-Utes, 300 Piutes, 4,200 Shoshones, and 500 Washoes. One third of them are on the Pyramid- Lake, Walker-River, Duck-Valley and Moapa-River Reservations. The Railroad System of Nevada began in 1867, when the first locomotive entered the State, running from the California side to Crystal Peak. The value of Central Pacific Railroad property in Nevada is $50,000,000, the length being 448 miles. The railway from Carson City to Virginia City was built in 1868 and extended to Reno in 1871-2. The Nevada Central, from Battle Mountain to Austin, 93 miles, dates from 1879-80. The Eureka & Palisade line is 90 miles long. The Carson & Colorado Line runs from near Carson 298 miles south to Keeler ; and the Nevada & Oregon road runs from Reno. The Chief Towns, near the foot of the Sierra, are Virginia City, with its great gold and silver mines ; Carson City, the capital, and an important supply-depot ; and Reno, at the junction of three railways, with flour- ing-mills, saw-mills, and reduction-works. Virginia City and Gold Hill had 35,000 inhabitants in 1880, with metropolitan in stitutions, but subsequently fell to 15,000. Virginia City is 6, 339 feet above the sea, Belmont is 8,092 feet, Treasure Hill 9,077, and Barcelona City, 10,480. Austin and Virginia city. Eureka are important silver-mining towns. 326,073 318,300346,991346,229 762 300,697 46,294 170, 526 176,465 , 376,53° 9,305 2 1.373 io 537 1,102 6s 10,148 873.978,028 New Hampshire's abor igines were the friendly Penacooks, dwelling along the Merrimack ; the Coos, along the Connecticut ; the Pequawkets, on the upper Saco ; the Ossipees ; and several smaller tribes, con federated against the Mo hawks, under the wizard-sachem Passaconaway, whose son and successor, Wonnolancet, kept most of them neutral dur ing King Philip's War. The gallant English sailor, Martin Pring, explored the silent coast in 1603, followed by Cham- plain and Capt. John Smith. In 1622, the Plymouth Com pany (of England) granted the territory of Laconia, from the Merrimack to the Kennebec, to Sir Ferdinando Gorges and Capt. John Mason. The first settlements were made by adventurous fishermen and traders, sent out by English patrons, at Cocheco (Dover) and Little Harbor (near Portsmouth), in 1623. Exeter was founded, in 1638, by the exiled John Wheelwright ; and the first house at Hampton rose in 1636. In 1641, these four colonies were united to Massachusetts, and in 1679, New Hampshire became a royal province. John Mason's heirs and their claims caused annoyance, until 1 746, when twelve Portsmouth gen tlemen bought them out. The colony suffered under mer ciless Indian forays, from soon after King Philip's War, when five towns were attacked in succession, down nearly to the Revolution. Dover, Durham, Exeter, Rye and all the outlying settlements met the fury of the pagan assaults, which were oftentimes reinforced by detachments of French and Canadian troops. Hundreds of settlers were slain, and many others passed into a dreary captivity, in Canada; but naught availed to check the advance of the pioneers, who moved forward into the Lake-country, and through the mountain-passes, and occupied the fertile valley of the Connecticut. In the Louisburg and Ticonderoga campaigns, New Hamp shire's sons distinguished themselves on many a hard-fought field. The State sent 18,289 Settled at Settled in . Founded by One of the Origi Dover. ¦ ¦ 1623 . . Englishmen. lal 13 States. Population in i860, 1870, In 1880, White,Colored, . , . American-born,Foreign-born, . Male:Females. In 1899 (U. S. Census), . , Population to the'square mile, " 38"! Voting Population {1880), . 105,138 Vote for Harrison (1888), 45,728 Vote for Cleveland (1888}, 43,456 Net State Debt, . §2,639,706.55 Real Property, . . $117,000,000 Personal Property, . $130,000,000 Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, Militia (Disciplined), Counties, . . . Post-offices, . . . Railroads (miles), . Vessels, Tonnage, .... Manufactures (yearly), Operatives, 48,831 Yearly Wages, . . . $14,814,793 Farm Land (in acres), . 3,721,173 Farm-Land Values, . £75,834,389 Farm Products (yearly) $13,474,330 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . . 43,484 Newspapers, 126 Latitude, . 42p42'3o" to 45°i8' N. Longitude, 7o°43/4o" to 72°33/ W. Temperature, . . . — 40° to 940 Mean Temperature (Concord), 460 TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS of 1890). Manchester,Nashua,Concord, . . Dover, . . Portsmouth, Keene, Rochester, . Somersworth,Laconia, . Claremont, . 44.126 i9,3H 17,00412,790 9,827 7.4467.396 6,2076,143 5, 5^5 538 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. soldiers into the Revolution, of whom 12,496 were in the Continental Line. In the recent Secession War she was represented by 20 regiments and twelve companies and batteries, numbering 33,937 men, of whom nearly 5,000 died in the service. Between 1850 and 1890 the losses by the war and by emigration checked the development of the State, and left much of the hill-country in a desolate and deserted condition. In the meantime the pros perous manufacturing cities along the Merrimack have risen to great power and promi nence ; and the State has become celebrated also for its beautiful summer-resorts. Thoreau thus pictures the scenery of the Merrimack River : "At first it comes on mur muring to itself by the base of stately and retired mountains, through moist, primitive woods whose juices it receives, where the bear still drinks it, and the cabins of settlers are far be tween, and there are few to cross its stream ; enjoying in solitude its cascades still unknown to fame ; by long ranges of mountains of Sandwich and Squam, slumbering like tumuli of Titans, with the peaks of Moosilauke, the Haystack, and Kearsarge reflected in its waters ; to Plum Island, its sand ridges scalloping along the horizon like the sea-serpent, WHITE-MOUNTAIN SCENERY AND THE PROFILE HOUSE. and the distant outline broken by many a tall ship, leaning, still, against the sky. Standing at its mouth, looking up its sparkling stream to its source, — a silver cascade which falls all the way from the White Mountains to the sea, — and behold a citron each successive plateau, a busy colony of human beavers around every fall." The Name of the State was given by its first proprietor, Capt. John Mason, for many years governor of South-Sea Castle, on the coast of English Hampshire (Hants). Its pop ular pet name is The Granite State, referring to its noble rocky peaks. The Arms of New Hampshire, adopted in 1784, show a rising sun and a ship on the stocks, with American banners displayed. The Governors since I734have been : Benning Wentworth, 1 754-67 ; John Wentworth, 1767-75 ; Meshech Weare, 1776-85 ; John Langdon, 1785-86 ; John Sullivan, 1786-8 ; John Langdon, 1788-9; John Sullivan, 1789-90; Josiah Bartlett, 1790-4; JohnTaylor Oilman, 1 794- 1 805 ; John Langdon, 1805-9; Jeremiah Smith, 1809-10; John Langdon, 1810-12; THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 539 MT. -WASHINGTON Wm. Plummer, 1812-13 and 1816-19; John Taylor Gilman, 1813-16 ; Samuel Bell, 1819-23; Levi Woodbury, 1823-4; David Lawrence Morrill, 1824-7 ; Ben jamin Pierce, 1827-28; John Bell, 1828-9; Matthew Harvey, 1 830-1 ; Joseph M. Harper, 1 831 ; Samuel Dinsmoor, 1831-4 ; Wm. Badger, 1834-6; Isaac Hill, 1836-9; John Page, 1839-42; Henry Hubbard, 1842-4; John H. Steele, 1844-6; An thony Colby, 1846-7 ; Jared W. Williams, 1847-9 ! Samuel Dinsmoor, 18 52; Noah Martin, 1852-4; Nathaniel B. Baker, 1854-5; Ralph Metcalf, 1855-7; Wm- Haile, 1857-9; Ichabod Goodwin, 1859-61; Nathaniel S. Berry, 1861-3; Joseph Atherton Gilmore, 1863-5; Frederick Smyth, 1865-7; Walter Harriman, 1867-9; Onslow Stearns, 1869-71 ; James A. Weston, 1871-2 and 1874-5 ; Ezekiel A. Straw, 1872- 4; Person C. Cheney, 1875-7; BenJ- F- Prescott, 1877-9; Natt Head, 1879-81 ; Chas. H. Bell, 1881-3; Samuel W.Hale, 1883-5; Moody Currier, 1885-7; Chas. H. Sawyer, 1887-9; David H. Goodell, 1889-91 ; Hiram A. Tuttle, 1891-3. Descriptive. — New Hampshire lies between Maine and Vermont, with Massachusetts on the south, a wilderness fronting on Canada, and beaches facing the Atlantic. Its middle part is serrated by the White Mountains, cov ering 1,300 square miles, in several short ranges, largely clad with primeval forest, the main peaks rising above the timber-line, and crowned with storm-worn rocks. The magnificent scenery of this highland country has for generations been admired by myriads of tourists from all pver the world. Several railways traverse its noble notches ; and great hotels and summer-resort villages, Bethlehem, North Conway, Jackson, Jefferson, and Campton, have grown up in the vicinity. There are seven peaks above 5,000 feet high, 22 above 4,000, and scores of lesser elevations. Mount Washington, 6,293 feet high, and overlooking thousands of square miles, has a carriage-road ascending its huge rocky slopes, and a large hotel and other buildings on its summit. The first cog-rail moun tain-railway in the world was constructed up this peak in 1868-9. The powerful little humpbacked locomotives push trains up a height of 3,730 feet in a course of less than three miles, the highest grade being 13 \ inches in a yard. In the Presidential Range, "the Crown of New England," tower the majestic peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, Jackson and others. They were called by the Indians Waumbek Methna ; and by the colo nists, who explored them as early as 1642, The Crystal Hills. The White-Mountain Notch is a wonderful defile of several miles in length, cut deep through these highlands, and giving passage to the turn pike and the Maine Central Railroad, on \ Ajjjrrjr*^^3 its way from Port land to Montreal and the West. This ^Kgt/'^^fcWim ) forms one of the most magnificent scenic routes in America. newfound lake. The Franconia Range culminates in Mount Lafayette, 5,299 feet high ; and in the Franconia Notch, 1,200 feet above the road, is the famous Profile, a massive stone face 40 feet high, which has figured in New-England art and literature for nearly a century. Moosilauke (4,810 feet), franconia notch, white mountains. 54o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Chocorua (3,508), Kearsarge (2,943), Grand Monadnock (3,169), and other outlying mountains are notable features of the landscape. The beautiful pastoral valleys of the Saco, Androscoggin and Pemigewasset penetrate the great mountain-mass for ;s\ many leagues, affording natural avenues for railways, and jewelled with pleasant hamlets. Another marked feature of New Hampshire, and one of its foremost beauties, is an extensive and varied system of lakes, rich in wooded islets, and mirroring the crests of famous mountains. The foremost of these is Lake Winnepesaukee, covering 72 square miles, and adorned by 274 islands. The Ossipee, !SLES OF SHOALS : WHITE ISLAND. Sandwich and Bd. .^ *~= ~ - 1 knap ranges look down on this lovely crystal sheet. Near by is Asquam Lake, unrivalled for its mountain- guarded beauty. Sunapee (n square miles), New found (8), Umbagog (18), Ossipee (7), Spofford, Mas- coma, Massabesic, and other lakes are popular resorts in summer. Sunapee Lake, 1,100 feet above the sea, under the forest-clad peaks of Kearsarge and Sunapee, abounds in islands and beaches, summer-villages and camps, and a great variety of valuable fish. The Connecticut River, New England's foremost stream, rises in a group of lakelets near the Canadian frontier, and runs south for 450 miles through a valley of extraordinary beauty and fertility. The Pemigewasset and the Winnepe saukee unite to form the Merrimack, which flows for 78 miles in New Hampshire and 35 in Mas sachusetts, turning more mill ma chinery than any other river in the world. The Piscataqua is a broad, deep and swift estuary, eleven miles long, entering the sea at Portsmouth, where it forms one of the best harbors on the American coast, with 40 feet of water at low tide, and a rocky bottom. On the Maine side, at Kittery, is the United-States Navy- Yard. The other notable streams are the Upper and Lower Ammonoosuc, Ashuelot, Androscoggin, Con- toocook, Saco, and Suncook. These rivers are mainly mountain-born, and therefore subject to sudden floods. Their waters are singularly pure, and abound in salmon, trout, bass and other fish, millions of which are distributed every year, by the State, for development. The Plymouth and Sunapee hatcheries have sent . out vast numbers of brown, rainbow and Loch- I? -^to-.^«jb»j Leven trout, the choicest species of the fish. The State has 325 fish and game wardens, whose vigilance has caused the remoter towns to become populated with deer. Broad expanses of primeval forest still en wrap the lonely northern counties with great pines, oaks, birches and other trees. Bears and wolves and moose roam through these unbroken woods, which are rarely traversed, save by ex plorers and hunters. The lumber business has MANCHESTER : t. AMOSKEAG FALLS. B. POST-OFFICE. 3. SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT. ISLES OF SHOALS : STAR-ISLAND CHURCH. CONNECTICUT RIVER, NEAR HANOVER. THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. S4I SUNAPEE LAKE. GLEN-ELLIS FALLS, WHITE MOUNTAINS. attained considerable importance in the north, and the mills at Whitefield and Zealand, Berlin, Livermore and Lancaster have many miles of steam-railways, bringing out of the forests over 40, 000, 000 feet of logs yearly. The sea-coast of 18 miles includes the beaches of Hampton and Rye, well-known as summer-resorts, backed by the long levels of the tidal marshes. Six miles off-shore, in the open sea, rise the rocky little Isles of Shoals, discovered by Champlain in 1605, occupied by villages of fishermen for over two centuries, and now the seat of large summer-hotels. They cover 600 acres, and partly per tain to Maine. Steamboats run out hither several times daily, in summer, from Portsmouth. New Hampshire has several mineral springs, with attendant hotels and summer clientages. The choicest scenic localities amid the White and Fran conia Mountains are occupied by large and luxurious sum mer-hotels, which are filled during the summer by guests from all parts of the Union. None of these delightful pleasure-resorts occupies a higher place in the public esteem than the famous old Profile House, the largest summer-hotel in New England, whose proprietors, Taft & Greenleaf, have been connected with it for 30 consecutive years. Just where the Franconia Notch reaches its northern end, and before the road begins its steep descent to the valley, there is a beautiful little plateau, 2,000 feet above the sea, surrounded on three sides by the stupendous cliffs of Mount Lafayette and Cannon Mountain. Here, between the translucent Echo Lake and Profile Lake, rise the white walls of the Profile House, fronting on broad lawns and flanked by handsome cottages. The wonderful Profile, or Old Man of the Mountain, un doubtedly the most remarkable rock-formation in this country, if not in the world, is seen from near the hotel. All the surrounding region abounds in charming drives and rambles. Nowhere else in the New-Hampshire mountains is there such a museum of unrivalled curi osities as that which may be explored in these two leagues of the great Franconian Pass. The Government includes a biennially elected governor and council and executive officers ; and the General Court of 24 senators and over 300 representatives. The Supreme Court has seven justices. The State House, at Concord, was built in 1816-9, and enlarged in 1865. It is in classic architecture, of Concord granite, and stands in a pleasant park. The Doric Hall contains the battle-flags of the volunteer regiments of 1861-5. The Council Chamber has portraits of all the governors since 1 786, and there are many large portraits of Revolutionary generals and other ancient worthies. The State Prison at Concord was established in 1812, and has no convicts. The Asylum for the Insane (founded in 1842) is also at Concord, and has 340 inmates. The Industrial School for boys and girls is near Manchester. The Orphans' Home and School of Industry occupies the ancestral Webster farm, near Franklin, and is generously supported by private contributions. The National Guard includes three regiments of infantry. There is also a troop of cavalry and a battery. The State camp-ground, where these troops are quartered and drilled for seven days yearly, is on the bluffs opposite Concord. Education. — The Normal School, at Ply mouth, with nine instructors and 275 students, is ....,.,,., , the head of the State school-system. The old CONCORD : STATUE OF DANIEL WEBSTER, KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. district-schools gave way, in 1885, to the town system, intended to afford better facilities to students in remote neighborhoods. The State spends over $700,000 a year in educating its young people. Nearly one tenth of the children are in Catholic parochial schools. There are also 53 academies, with 3,112 pupils. Dartmouth Col lege, at Hanover, on the Connecticut River, was founded in 1 769 by the Rev. Eleazer Wheelock, as a school for missionaries and Indians. It received 44,000 acres of land from the Province, and large gifts from English philanthropists, among whom was Lord Dartmouth. The huts of green logs which at first served as the college-halls have been replaced by ten buildings, of which Wilson Hall and the Rollins Chapel are notable for their beautiful architecture. The College Park covers 34 acres. Daniel Webster, Rufus Choate, George Ticknor, George P. Marsh, Salmon P. Chase and Thaddeus Stevens were among the 7, 000 graduates. The college has 229 students, be sides 67 in the Chandler School of Science, 68 in the Medical School (founded in 1797), 10 in the Thayer School of Civil Engineer ing, and 33 in the College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, which occupies a contiguous farm of 360 acres. One of the most attractive features in Hanover is the new Mary Hitchcock Memorial Hospital, erected in 1 890 by Hiram Hitchcock, of New York. Phillips Exeter Academy, founded in 1 781, is one of the most noted and most ad mirably conducted college preparatory schools in America, and has graduated more than 6, 000 pu pils, including a long professional and and 325 students, elm-lined campus. DARTMOUTH COLLEGE. ROLLINS CHAPEL. list of famous statesmen, bankers, and business men. It has ten instructors with fine buildings ranged along an Two hundred and seventy-one of the students come from 35 outside States and Territories, besides a number of foreign countries. The Robinson Female Seminary, also at Exeter, was en dowed with $250,000, and opened in 1867. St. Paul's School, two miles from Concord, is an Episcopal institution of rare efficiency, with a seven-years' course, preparing boys for college or business. It was opened in 1856. Chief among its buildings is the large and beautiful collegiate chapel, in late decorated Gothic, with oaken roof, stained windows, and carved stalls and screens. The Holderness School for Boys, another Episcopal institution of high rank, has its seat near Plymouth, in the idyllic Pemigewasset Val ley. The New-Hampshire Conference Seminary and Female College is a Methodist school, established in 1845, at Tilton, eighteen miles from Concord. There are good academies at New Hampton, New Ipswich (Appleton), West Lebanon (Tilden), Mont Vernon, Meriden (Kimball Union), Atkin son, Northwood, New London, Wolfeborough, and other FACULTY AVENUE, THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 543 EXETER I PHILLIPS EXETER ACADEMY. HANOVER I HITCHCOCK MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. villages. The chief public libraries are those of Dart mouth College, 65,000 volumes; Manchester City Li brary, 30,000; State Library, 20,000; Portsmouth Atheneeum, 16,000; Concord Public Library, 12,000; and the New-Hampshire Historical Society, 10,600. The newspapers of New Hampshire include 1 1. dailies and 86 weeklies. There are 1 3 monthlies. The Gazette, of Portsmouth, was established in 1756. Religious. — The foremost religious denomination is the Congregational, the old historic church of New England, which has here nearly 200 churches and 20, 000 members. There are no Methodist churches, with 13,000 members. The Baptists and the Free Baptists have each nearly 9,000 members. The Episcopal diocese of New Hampshire numbers 28 parishes, with 2, 000 communi cants. The Catholic church has more ad herents than any one of the Protestant denominations, largely among the French- Canadians and the Irish, in the manufac turing cities. There are Shaker communi ties at Canterbury and Enfield. Chief Cities. — Manchester avails it self of the enormous water-power of the Amoskeag Falls, on the Merrimack, and yearly manufactures 70,000 bales of cotton into cloth. Concord is a pleasant little city on the Merrimack, with handsome public buildings. Nashua, also on the Merrimack, is an important manufacturing city and railroad centre. Portsmouth, the only sea-port of the State, and for nearly a century its capital, abounds in quaint old buildings and interesting traditions, and is one of the most delight ful cities on the Atlantic coast. Dover, ten miles above, on the Cocheco, has several large factories. The Railroads had 92 miles of track in 1844. Since that date upwards of 1,200 miles have been built, at a cost of $35,000,000. The Boston & Maine Rail road crosses the seaboard section of the State with several lines, reaching also inland to Lake Winnepe- saukee and the White Mountains, and through the pleasant hill-country towards Dublin and Keene. The route from Boston to Montreal ascends the Merri mack Valley to Franklin, and then diverges towards Vermont. The Maine Central line, from Portland to Lake Champlain, traverses the heart of the White Mountains ; and the Grand Trunk line, from Portland to Montreal, winds through the mountain-land by the Androscoggin Valley. The railway up Mount Washington was the first mountain-railway in the world, and is a wonderful triumph of engineering. The line of the Maine Central Railway, through the Notch, is carried along galleries cut into the sides of the mountains, at a vast elevation above the valley, and commands amazing views of the Presidential Range. The most impressive of these is from near the Frankenstein Trestle, whence the majestic Mount Washington is seen at the head of the lonely glen. The Maine Cen tral finished a new line in 1891, from near the Twin-Mountain House and Whitefield, to the lofty summer-resort village of Jefferson, and concord ; railway station. -PAUL'S SCHOOL CHAPEL. 544 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SUGAR-RIVER BRIDGE. thence northward across the Grand Trunk route, and through the Upper Coos country, connecting with the line for Quebec. The railway bridges over Sugar River and Salmon-Falls River are notable constructions of the Boston Bridge Works. Commerce. — The maritime commerce of New Hampshire, centering at Portsmouth, in ancient times included large shipments of lumber and fish to England and the West Indies, but the wars of 1776 and 181 2 destroyed this indus try. The State has coasting and fishing fleets and 25 small steamboats. The Finances of New Hampshire stand in a favorable condition, the yearly treasury receipts exceed $1,300,000, of which $500,000 comes from the State tax levy assessed upon the towns, $540,000 from the tax placed upon all savings-banks deposits, and $240,000 from the railroad tax. The average rate of local taxa tion is $1.48 on $100. According to the new census the net debt of the State has decreased from $3,574,846 in 1880 to $2,639,707 in 1890. Among the financial institutions of New Hampshire, the- First National Bank of Concord occupies the position at the head of the list. Chartered in 1864 with a capital of $150,000, it has always paid good dividends to its stockholders, and accumulated dur ing the first 20 years of its existence a surplus equal to its capital. Under the prudent and conservative management of its officers, and especially the well-directed efforts of William F. Thayer, the president of the bank, it promises long before the expiration of its charter to again double the market- value of its stock. The bank enjoys the business of corporations and individuals who seek the services of a safe and reliable de pository, and also markets a choice line of investment securities for investors. The First National Bank outgrew its original quarters, and in 1 89 1 occupied new and more commodious quarters, better adapted to its needs and the convenience of its customers. Insurance was the subject of State legislation in 1885, as a result of which 58 outside -A«i?*- ¦.-_ companies concertedly withdrew from business here, the State aiming to compel the companies to pay the full amount insured under all policies in case of total loss, regardless of the value of the property. Their risks were largely taken by home companies, which built up a valuable local business, insuring over $50,000,000 worth of property in a single year. The representative insurance corporation in this State is the New- Hampshire Fire-insurance Company, under the presidency of ex-Gov ernor James A. Weston, and secretaryship of John C. French, and holding a foremost rank among the strong, solid and successful Ameri can companies. The headquarters is in the company's own fire-proof building at Manchester ; and agencies are in successful operation in many cities of the Middle and Western States. The liabilities are in small risks, well scattered ; and the assets rest in undoubted securities, and real-estate mortgages, guarded by directors of acknowledged ability and integrity, and including some of the foremost men of the State. This company was incorporated in 1869, and has a capital of $600,000, gross assets of $1,500,000, and a surplus, as regards policy-holders, exceeding $1,000,000. It has paid over $3,000,000 in losses. The CONCORD : FIRST NATIONAL BANK. MANCHESTER : FIRE-INSURANCE CO. THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 545 SALMON-FALLS BRIDGE. 8,000,000 remain on unexpired policies of risks in force amount to about $75,000,000. The singular position assumed by this State with re gard to outside insurance companies, differing so far from the conduct of other commonwealths, has been rightly questioned, especially so as she has no other solid corporation like the New-Hamp shire Fire-insurance Company, to afford her citi zens absolute protection against loss by fire. There are now 12 stock fire-insurance companies, and 10 cash-mutual and 25 assessment-mutual companies, with $71,000,000 of risks in force in the State, and $104,000,000 outside. The fac- tory-mutuals also protect $42,000,000, and retired foreign companies. Agriculture is not at its best in this land of eight cold months. The high sandy plains along the Merrimack, and some of the lofty uplands are unfavorable for farmers, but the alluvial valleys of the Connecticut and other streams produce good crops. Of late years much attention has been paid to dairy farming, and 1,500,000 pounds of butter are sent out from the creameries annually. The breeding of fine horses and cattle is a feature of recent introduction. One hundred and twenty-two granges are in operation, with 8, 500 members. There are usually three or four months of sleighing, with deep and fructifying snows, especially in the north, and a clear, bracing air. The month of June is full of beauty, and adorns the country with floral splendor. The Indian summer, in late September and October, is a delightful period of mild temperature and sweet air, with bright and luminous skies. Manufactures employ a capital of above $50,000,000, and pay yearly wages to the amount of $15,000,000. The first cotton-mill dates from 1804, and since that time the industry has developed amazingly. Between 1850 and 1890 the invested capital increased 300 per cent., and the value of the yearly product increased 320 per cent. There are great mills at Manchester, Nashua, Dover, Laconia, Suncook and other towns, all of which also have prosperous and varied manufacturing IP interests. The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company at Manchester, the largest cotton-manufac turing company in New England, com menced operations about 50 years ago. It has twelve large and complete mills, dye-houses, store-houses, boiler-houses, and foundry, covering over 60 The mills give employment and have a yearly besidesmachine-shop, acres of floor-space. to more than 7,000 people, pay-roll of nearly $3,000,000. They contain 250,- 000 spindles and 9,000 looms, and produce daily 300,000 yards of cloth, during the ten hours that the mills run daily. These fabrics are sent to all parts of the Republic, and to many re mote lands beyond the ocean. To make this quantity of cloth requires 900,000 miles of yarn daily, and consumes 60,000 bales of cotton a year. Over 700 electric lights are em ployed in lighting the mills. The 48 boilers burn 20,000 tons of coal a year in furnishing steam. The chimney used with these boilers is 264 feet high. The leading products of the Amoskeag Company, which have an international reputation, are ginghams, tickings of all grades and qualities, Denims, shirtings and cotton flannels. The A C A tickings MANCHESTER \ AMOSKEAG MANUFACTURING COMPANY. and the blue Denims have been standard goods all through the United States for more 546 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. than half a century, and the Denims have also been largely exported to the West Indies. The manufacture of ginghams was commenced in 1867 by the Amoskeag Company, which is now the largest producer of these goods in the country. They are made in a large variety of styles and coloring, about 5,000 new patterns being brought out yearly. The Amoskeag Company, of which Thomas Jefferson Coolidge has been treasurer since 1876, has a capital of $4,000,000, with a value of about $8,500,000, and is one of the greatest and most successful industrial enterprises in all New England. One of the bright and busy manufacturing towns in New Hampshire is Great Falls, in GREAT FALLS : THE GREAT-FALLS MANUFACTURING COMPANY. a romantic situation on the Salmon-Falls River. When the Great-Falls Manufacturing Company received its charter, and began operations, in 1823, the only buildings were a saw mill, a grist-mill and two houses. Since then, a town of several thousand inhabitants has risen here, and the enormous mills front a wide area of carefully kept lawns and groves. The buildings extend nearly two thirds of a mile in length, and are substantially built of brick. The machinery is run by water-power. Excepting only the Amoskeag Company, the Great-Falls Manufacturing Company have the largest cotton-mills in New Hampshire. The paid-in capital is $1,500,000; and the mills contain 126,000 spindles and 3, 000 looms, employing 1,600 persons, and producing every year 30,000,000 yards of sheeting, valued at $2,000,000. The present treasurer is J. Howard Nichols. Office, Exchange Building, Boston. The Company's goods are sold by Minot, Hooper & Co., of Boston and New York. The Cocheco Manufacturing Company is located in the city of Dover, Strafford County, on the Cocheco River, whence it derives a. portion of its power. It succeeded the Dover Manufacturing Company, which was organized in 181 2, the charter being drawn up by Daniel AVebster ; and was the parent of the surrounding cotton-factories in New Hampshire and Maine, as Waltham in Massachusetts was of those in Lowell and Lawrence. In 1827 Eben Francis, Wm. Appleton, Amos Cotting, and others of Boston, organized the present corporation, continuing the manufacture of yarns and print-cloths, and also established the print works, one of the first in the country. The plant has been gradu ally increased and improved until now it turns out about 50,000,000 yards of printed cotton goods, and manufactures 30,000,000 yards of gray cloths annually. The product was for many years confined to mad der prints, which are well known throughout the Union, but it is now as varied as that of any print works. The capital stock is $1,500,000, and 1,650 operatives find employment, DOVER : THE COCHECO MANUFACTURING COMPANY. with an annual pay roll of $740,000. Lawrence & Co. of Boston, New York and Phila delphia are the selling agents for the products of the Cocheco Mills. One of the most interesting of American industrial establishments is the Abbot-Down ing Company, whose Concord coaches and carriages are known the world over for their THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 547 THE ABBOT-DOWNING CO. excellent materials and thorough construction. The output of these works includes light and heavy ex press-wagons and trucks, coaches and stages of various kinds, hotel omnibuses, ambulances, hose- reels, hook-and-ladder trucks, and other vehicles. This great industry was founded by Lewis Downing of Lexington, Mass., who opened a small wheel wright shop at Concord, in 1813. In 1826 he secured the services of Stephens Abbot, a journey man coach-body-maker of Salem, with whom, two years later, he organized the copartnership of Abbot & Downing. In 1847 they separated, and formed independent firms, and in 1865 they were re-united as Abbot, Downing &• Co., which absorbed a large rival house in 1873, and became the Abbot-Downing Company. Their wagons are in use on the plains of Australia, the rural roads of Japan, and amid the Rocky Mountains, as well as in all parts of the Atlantic States. The first coaches in California and Australia came from this ancient establishment, and the great twelve-horse coaches run ning to the Transvaal gold-fields, in South Africa, are made here. The company employs 300 men, and the works cover five acres of ground. Parallel with the great coach-building industry of Concord has risen the closely related business of har ness-making, which was brought to perfection by the cumulative skill of generations of intelligent work men. Foremost in this trade stands the corporation of James R. Hill & Co., which was founded in 1840 by Mr. Hill, and has for many years been under the presidency and general management of George H. Emery. In their spacious works nearly 300 men are employed in making the well-known "Concord Har ness," for freight and express wagons, coaches and carriages, and all manner of uses for business and pleasure driving. There is hardly a region in the world where their product is not used ; and their awards of merit, at the Philadelphia, Sydney, Melbourne and other expositions con tain the most distinguished compliments. The chief traits of excellence are the sensitively careful choice of leather, the superior grade of workmanship in making, and the intelligent adaptation of the harness to every purpose. Paper-making has always been one of the prominent and successful industries of New England, whose exquisite products in the way of surface-coated goods and cardboards have driven European goods out of the American market. The only New-Hampshire corporation in this line of labor is the Nashua Card & Glazed Paper Com pany, whose handsome and spacious new factory is stocked with a great variety of costly improved and patented machinery. The yearly product is above 10,000,000 pounds of cardboard and glazed papers, lithographic board and paper ; and at times the de mand for these articles is so great that the works are compelled to run at night. The operations of mixing and applying colors, by hand or machinery, are done with marvelous precision ; and j.11 the details of the manufacture are carried forward with equal accuracy and trained skill. The mill is lighted by electricity and heated by steam. The Nashua Card and Glazed Paper Company's trade is national in its extensive line of customers. CONCORD ". JAMES R. HILL HARNESS CO. NASHUA | NA6HUA CARD & GLAZED PAPER CO. S4« KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STA TES. NASHUA : WHITE-MOUNTAIN FREEZER CO. CONCORD I INSANE ASYLUM. An interesting industry, and one especially appro priate to this cool northern land, is represented by the White-Mountain Freezer Company, whose extensive works are at Nashua, the foremost concern in this in dustry in the United States. The White-Mountain Freezer Company, whose works are located at Nashua, a pleasant city on the Merrimack River, about 40 miles northwest of Boston. The plant covers five acres ; and a large force of skilled workmen are con stantly employed in the manufacture of this popular freezer. The goods are sold at all the principal cities of this country, and thousands are exported annually. The features of especial merit are : A covered gearing ; heavy water proof tubs ; cans of best tin-plate ; and beaters of malleable iron and tinned, whereby no zinc surfaces are in contact with the cream, thus avoiding the danger of zinc poison so common by using freezers having galvanized — (zinc-coated) — dashers. Above all, the White-Mountain is the only freezer in the world having the triple motion, with which a finer, smoother cream is produced than in any other machine ever in vented. Minerals. — The Franconia- Iron Works began operations in 181 1, but have been closed for many years. Gold has been mined at Lisbon, tin at Jackson, lead at Shelburne, zinc at Madison, copper at Lyman, iron at Bar tlett and Tamworth, and graphite at Nelson, in small quantities. The Grafton mica, Lebanon slate, Acworth feldspar, East-Haverhill lime, and Francestown soapstone have been quarried for many years. Over 1, 000 men are engaged in the granite-quarries, nearly half of them near Concord, whose handsome fine-grained and light-colored stone is used in all the Atlantic cities. With its many attractions of moun tains, lakes and sea-coast, and its cool northern summers, this State has become a vernal pleasure-park for myriads of vacation-tourists. In this regard, rather than for the majesty of its scenery (now that Wyoming and Colcfrado are so accessible), New Hampshire merits its old title of "the Switzerland of America." The favorite season is July, August and September, though June and October are also included in the pleasure-time. Many hundreds of farmers' houses are kept open for boarders, and the amount spent each year by summer- visitors is above $4,- 000,000. " Land of the cliff, the stream, the pine, Blessing, and honor, and peace be thine ! Still may the giant mountains rise, Lifting their snows to the blue of June, And the south wind breathe its tenderest sighs, Over thy fields in the harvest moon " -Edna Dean Proctor. tototo, ,, GORHAM : GATEWAY TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. HISTORY. The first European to look upon the low sandy shores of New Jersey was Henry Hudson, whose little ship Half-Moon cast anchor inside of Sandy Hook, in 1609. By virtue of his dis coveries, patronized by the Dutch East -India Com pany, the people of the Netherlands laid claim to a vast and scarcely denned tract of land, embracing the eastern portion of New York, and all of New Jersey. Incited by the obtaining of so valuable a possession, colonies were sent from Holland, and within a decade settlements arose in the vicinity of Jersey City (then called Bergen), the main trad ing-post being on the site of New York, At about the same time, Godyn and Bloemart purchased Cape May from the Indians. Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, desir ing to found a New Sweden in the western world, also sent colonies to Delaware. Some of these adventurers passed over into West Jersey, occupying territory claimed by the Dutch. This action led to a series of disputes, and finally Gov. Stuyvesant appeared in the Delaware, and secured the submission of the Swedes, in 1655. For years all this territory, the Dutch Bergen, the pat- roonship of Cape May, and New Sweden alike, had been claimed by the English, by right of Cabot's discovery, by Ralegh's patent, and by the patents of the London and Plymouth companies, not to mention Ployden's more or less fabulous expedition and the claims of a few New-Eng landers on the Delaware. So, in 1 664, King Charles granted to the Duke of York a great tract of land, from Cape May to Nantucket, the Duke, in turn, granting New Jer sey to Lord John Berkeley and Sir George Carteret, giving them the absolute estate and title to the land, and also the Philip Carteret was the first governor, and named the capital George Carteret. The settlers at Newark were Connecticut STATISTICS. Settled at . . . Bergen. Settled in . . . . 1627 Founded by . . . Dutchmen. One of the original 13 States. Population, in i860, . . 672,035 In 1870, . . . 906,096 In 1880, . . . 1,131,116 White, . 1,092,017 Colored, 39.099 American -born, . . 909,416 Foreign-born, . , . 221,700 Males, 559,922 Females,. . . . 571,194 In 1890 (U. S. census), . 1,44,1,017 Population to the square mile, 151. 7 Voting Population, . . 300,635 Vote for Harrison (1888), 144,344 Vote for Cleveland (i8tW), 151,493 Net Public Debt, .... o Real and Personal Prop erty. §621,000,000 Area (square miles), . . 7,815 U. S. Representatives, . 7 Militia (Disciplined], . 4,007 Counties, . 21 Post-offices, . . 840 Railroads (miles), . 1,982 Vessels, . 1,142 Tonnage, 91,996 Manufactures (yearly), 82=^,375,236 Operatives, ... ." 126,038 Yearly Wages, . . $46,083,045 Farm Land (in acres), . 2,929,773 Farm-Land Values, §190,895,833 Farm Products (yearly) $29,650,756 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 135,187 Newspapers, 318 Latitude, 3o055'5i" to 4iQ2i'i9" N. Longitude, 73 53'si" to 75°33/3// W. Temperature, . . . — 105 to ioi" Mean Temperature (Trenton), 530 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS of 1890). Newark, Jersey City, Paterson,Camden, . Trenton, . Hoboken, Elizabeth, Bayonne,Orange, . New Brunswick, , . 181,830 . 163,003 78,34758,313 ¦ 57,458 . 43,64837,704 ¦ 19-033 . 18,844 . 18,603 power to rule and make laws. Elizabeth, after the wife of Sir Puritans. A few years later, 55° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MORRISTOWN MOUNT HOPE WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS. the proprietaries divided their principality on a line from Little Egg Harbor to the Dela ware (below Burlington), East Jersey pertaining to Carteret, and West Jersey to Berkeley. Getting little gain and much contention out of his half, the latter sold it in 1674 to a syn dicate of Quakers for ^1,000 ; and numbers of these friends of peace came over from Eng land and Scotland, and settled about Salem and Bordentown, and subsequently in East Jersey. In 1682, after Sir George Carteret died, William Penn and his Quaker friends bought East Jersey, and it became a refuge for the oppressed of their sect. The troubles in the local government finally con strained the proprietaries to surrender their sovereign rights to Queen Anne ; and Lord Cornbury in 1702 became Governor of New York and New Jersey, each Province having a separate assembly. In 1738 New Jersey secured a separate administration ; and its last royal Governor was William Franklin, the son of Benjamin Franklin. Although remote from the scene of hostilities, and hampered with a large Quaker population, New Jersey furnished for each of the twelve colonial campaigns against the French and Indians from 500 to 1,000 soldiers, whose blue uniforms gave rise to the name "Jersey Blues," especially applied to the battalion serving in King George's War (1745-8). - This lowland Belgium between the capital of the United States and the headquarters of British military power in America naturally became the scene of some of the chief cam paigns of the Revolution. But one colony suffered as much in the war, yet New Jersey sent 10,726 soldiers into the Continental Line, besides raising large militia forces, which at times formed the chief strength of the patriot army. On Christmas night, 1776, Washington with 2,400 men and 20 guns crossed the Delaware in a wild storm of sleet and snow, and through the floating ice, and at daylight surprised the 1,200 Hessian troops in garrison at Trenton, capturing 918 men and the colors of three German battalions. A few days later, Washington skilfully evaded Lord Cornwallis, and defeated the 17th, 40th, and 55th British regiments at Princeton, bombarding and taking the college, then held by the enemy, and cap turing the Royal artillery, and then safely retiring to the hill-country about Morristown. Fred erick the Great pronounced Washington's Trenton-Princeton campaign "the most brilliant in the annals of military achievements." In 1777 Fort Mercer, at Red Bank (on the Dela ware), garrisoned by the 1st and 2d Rhode-Island regiments, was bombarded by Count Donop, who led 1,200 Hessian infantry to storm the works, and suffered defeat, losing his own life and the lives of 400 of his men. At the same time, the brave Rhode-Islanders beat off and partly destroyed a British fleet on the river. The battle of Monmouth, June 28, 1778, was caused by Lafayette, Wayne and Lee attacking the rear-guard of Sir Henry Clinton's army, retreating to New York. The American van suffered rout, but the British grenadiers gave way before Knox's batteries and Wayne's riflemen. An imposing granite monument, ornamented with bronze bas-reliefs, was erected on the battlefield in 1884. The cantonments of the army in the winter of 1779-80 were at Morristown, and the house then occupied by Gen. Washington and his wife is now sacredly pre served, as public property. The ancient boards of proprietors of East Jersey and West Jersey retain their proprietary headquarters at Perth Amboy and Burlington, There were a dozen or more tribes of Indians in New Jersey — those north of the Raritan being of the Minsi Delawares, and those south of the Raritan pertaining to the Delawares. They were treated BARNEGAT LIGHT. THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 551 WOODBURY I OLD COURT HOUSE. with justice, and so the province escaped the bitter Indian wars that devastated other regions. The last remnants of these aboriginal tribes left the State in 1802, and moved to Oneida Lake, and subsequently to the shores of Lake Michigan. In 1832, being then reduced to 40 persons, they sold their reserved rights of hunting and fishing in unenclosed New- Jersey lands, to the State Legislature, and so disappeared from history. Slavery was one of the institutions of the Jerseys for over a century, and the Africans were usually immured at Perth Amboy when first landed from the slave-ships. In 1820 an act was passed giving freedom to all children born of slave-parents, after certain : dates, and by 1840 there were but 674 slaves remaining, although in 1800 there had been 12,422. The Constitution of 1776 allowed universal suffrage, which was practiced until 1807, women voting whenever they chose. During the civil war, New Jersey sent into the National army and navy 88,305 men, being 10,057 m excess of her quota, and within 10,501 of her entire militia. They were among the bravest and best disciplined troops in the army. The State is represented in the National Gallery of Statues at Washington by a marble statue of Richard Stockton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and a bronze statue of Gen. Philip Kearny, one of the most gallant generals in the Secession War. The Name of the State, Nova Ccesarea, or New Jersey, commemorates the gallant defence of the Isle of Jersey, in the English Channel, by Sir George Carteret, who beat off the Parliamentary forces during the civil war. New Jersey is sometimes called The Garden State, on account of the large variety of its floral and agricultural products. Joseph Bonaparte, a Corsican lawyer, was made by his younger brother, Napoleon Bonaparte, King of Naples (1806-8) and then King of Spain (1808-13). After Waterloo, he fled to America, and bought an estate of 1,400 acres at Bordentown, where he dwelt until 1832, entertain ing many illustrious Frenchmen. The Philadelphians were rather jealous of the good luck of New Jersey in securing such distinguished residents, and called the State Spain, with good-humored raillery reading it out of the Union. Hence arose the gibe that this domain is in some sense a foreign land ; and the people were long called foreigners and Spaniards, since their social leader was the King of Spain. The term State of Camden and Amboy was also used in the days when the Camden & Amboy Railroad influence held a dominating power. The Arms of New Jersey bear three ploughs, on a silver shield, denoting the agricultural prosperity of the State, with female figures of Liberty and Ceres as supporters. The crest is a horse's head, indicative of stock-raising. The motto Liberty and Prosperity has sometimes been added, but without official authority. This seal was adopted for the State in the year 1776. The Governors (after the Dutch and Swedish rules) included seven of East Jersey and eight of West Jersey (1665-1703), eleven of New Jersey and New York united (1702-38), ten of New Jersey as a Province, and the following-named of the State : Wm. Livingston, 1776-90; Wm. Paterson, 1790-2; Richard Howell, 1792-1801 ; Joseph Bloomfield, 1801-2 and 1803-12; John Lambert, (acting), 1802-3; Aaron Ogden, 1812-3; NEWTON : FARMING SCENE. NAVESINK : HIGHLAND LIGHTS. SANDY HOOK ; SIGNAL STATION. 552 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEWARK : KEARNY MONUMENT. Wm. S. Pennington, 1813-5; Mahlon Dickerson, 1 81 5-7; Isaac H.Williamson, 1817-29; Garret D. Wall, 1829 (declined); Peter D. Vroom, 1829-32 ; Samuel Lewis Southard, 1832-3 ; Elias P. Seeley, 1833 ; Peter D. Vroom, 1833-6 ; Philemon Dickerson, 1836-7 ; Wm. Pennington, 1837-43 ; Daniel Haines, 1843-4 and 1848-51; Chas. C. Stratton, 1845-8; Geo. F. Fort, 1851-4; Rodman M. Price, 1854-7 ; Wm. A. Newell, 1857-60; Chas. S. Olden, 1860-3 ; Joel Parker, 1863-6 ; Marcus L. Ward, 1866-9; Theodore F. Randolph, 1869-72; Joel Parker, 1872-5 ; Joseph D. Bedle, 1875-8; George Brinton McClellan, 1878-81; George C. Ludlow, 1881-4; Leon Abbett, 1884-7; Robert Stockton Green, 1887-90; and Leon Abbett, 1890-3. Descriptive. — New Jersey is a peninsula, bounded by the Delaware, the Hudson and the ocean ; and may be divided into the northern mountains, the central hill-country, and the southern pine-forests, sandy plains and marshes. Lying be tween New York and Philadelphia, the chief cities of America (" like a cider-barrel tapped at both ends," as Benjamin Franklin said), market -gardening and agriculture are the profita ble pursuits of one sixth of its inhabitants ; and its 120 miles of sandy sea-fronting beaches afford fashionable and crowded summer-resorts for these metropolitan hives of people. The shape of New Jersey has been likened, by its geological survey, to that of a bean. From Cape May to its northern point the distance is 1675 rniles. Its greatest breadth is 59 miles; and from Bordentown to South Amboy it is but 32 miles across. There are only three States smaller in area. The Kittatinny (or Blue) Mountain extends for nearly 50 miles across the north western corner of the State, near and parallel with the Dela ware River, which forms the boundary. It runs from Mt. Tam many, at the Delaware Water Gap (1,479 feet h'gh), t0 the peak of High Point (1,799 feet), where it joins the Shawangunk Range. The steep eastern declivities are carefully cultivated, and lead up to a line of forests, crowning the wall-like range with sombre color. On the east opens the long Kittatinny Valley, a rich grazing and farming country, ten miles wide, and abounding in clear lakes, fair green hills and broad reaches of valuable limestone lands. The Highlands cross northwestern New Jersey in a belt 60 miles long and from 10 to 22 miles wide, joining the South-Mountain range of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania to the Highlands of New York and New England. They cover 900 square miles, between the Kittatinny Valley, on the north and west, and the red sandstone plain on the south, with a succession of detached parallel ridges, smooth-crested and without peaks, and reaching their greatest height on Hamburg Mountain (1,488 feet). Their detached parallel ridges include the Ramapo, Trowbridge, Wawayanda, Hamburg, Schooley's, Musconetcong, Pohatcong, Scott's and Jenny-Jump Mountains. Some of these are rich in minerals ; some are cultivated all over ; and others are bare, rocky and valueless. Southeast of the Highlands, from Trenton to Staten Island, and from Holland to Morristown and Suf- fern, is the Triassic or Red-Sandstone region, of 1,540 square miles, the most thickly settled part of the State. Breaking through this red plain, perpendicular toward the east and gently sloping toward the west, are the low trap ridges of the Watchung, Sourland and Pickle Mountains. The most famous of these is the Palisades, a line of wonderful basaltic precipices extending along the THE PALISADES AND HUDSON RIVER. LAKE HOPATCONG. THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 553 PATERSON : PASSAIC FALLS. Hudson River from Staten-Island Sound to Ladentown (N. Y.), and looking down on the crowded streets of New York. This lonely line of cliffs is crowned with woods, and has many a bright cascade, many a deserted village and dock, and exquisite views over the broad Hudson. Nearly parallel, and several leagues inland, rise the long walls of the First, Second and Third Mountains. Orange Mountain is visible from New-York Harbor. The beautiful hill-country begin ning at Orange, and including Madison, Montclair, Summit and Morristown, is enriched by hundreds of summer-estates and villas, suburban to New York. The land is lifted into great smooth folds, around which wind broad and excellent roads, traversing the fairest parts of this natural park. The mounds and dells of Short Hills are occupied by scores of the handsomest modern country-houses, with serpentine roads, ravines of ferns, gardens famous all over America, and vistas extending out to the Navesink Highlands. Farther to the east, over Dunellen, rises Washington Rock, from which the great Virginian used to watch the movements of the British troops in upper New Jersey. Thence the wayfarer may see the ships on the blue Atlantic, scores of white villages and cities (like Elizabeth, Rahway, Newark and Amboy), the chief buildings of great New York, and the piers of the Brooklyn Bridge, in a noble and commanding prospect, which includes the most populous and wealthy part of the American Union. Greenwood Lake lies among wildernesses of rugged rocks and woodlands, on the New-York frontier, and has several groups of pretty islands, and summer-hotels for hundreds of guests. Lake Hopatcong, nine by three miles, is a beautiful forest-girt sheet of water, glimmer ing among the dark Brookland Mountains ; and in the same region is Budd's Lake, a round shield a league in circumference, and 1,200 feet high, over the Musconet- cong Valley. Both these localities have large summer- hotels and fine rural estates. Another popular point in this region is Schooley's Mountain, with its celebrated tonic chalybeate spring and hotels, visited now for nearly a century, and overlooking the Musconetcong and German Valleys. The Heath House was opened as a summer-resort in 1793, and Gen. Washington spent part of a season here. His room and furniture are kept just as he left them. The southern part of the State is a plain, rarely rising to an altitude of two hundred feet, and almost without mineral deposits, except bog iron ore. Forests of fragrant cedar front Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. Contrary to the general opinion, the land is not a sandy waste of pine and scrub oak, but rather a rich unimproved agricultural country, where cleared farms are often worth $250 to $400 per acre. With soil and climate like those of southeastern Virginia, trucking for markets is a profitable industry, whilst the best rail and water communication exists with the great cities. The Vineland and Hammonton colonies were founded about 20 years ago, mainly by New-Englanders, with their characteristic ideas and institu tions, and on the gravelly loam quanti ties of small fruits are raised for the city markets. In this vicinity are colonies of Russian Jews, driven from their own country. South Jersey is well adapted to the manufacture of glass and bricks, as ATLANTIC CITY. PERTH AMBOY ! RAILWAY BRIDGE, RARITAN RIVER. 554 RING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LONG BRANCH I THE BLUFF ' excellent sand and clay abound. The ocean-front is to a large extent composed of narrow sandy islands, with areas of melancholy salt-marsh and tidal lagoons inside, reached by narrow inlets. Barnegat Bay, and Great and Little Egg Harbors, are useful for small vessels only. Newark Bay covers ten square miles, and opens on New- York harbor. The fisheries employ over 6,000 men, with a yearly product of $3,000,000, most of which is from oysters. A score of varieties of foodfish are caught, .- including tautog, porgies, sheep's-head, weak-fish, mackerel, cod, and bathing beach. blue-fish, swordfish, haddock, salmon and herring. Jersey City, with its enormous commerce, is in the New-York customs-district. The ports of entry on the coast are Perth Amboy, Great Egg Harbor, Tuckerton, Newark, and Bridgeton. Lam- berton is at Trenton, on the Delaware. Sandy Hook forms one of the portals of the Lower Bay of New York, and is partly covered with scrub oak and pine and ground ivy, and occu pied by a deserted stone fort, three light-houses, a telegraph- station for reporting incoming vessels, and an ordnance station of the United-States Army, with several officers and 40 soldiers, where great guns are tested. The Hook belongs to the Government ; and is joined to the mainland by a narrow sand-strip six miles long, between the sea and Shrewsbury River. Steamboats run from New York to the Hook, whence a railway goes down the beach to Long Branch. * ~ ¦--'- / The most conspicuous point on the coast is the .^ -~^= Highlands of Navesink, a rugged and wooded range rising from the sea near Sandy Hook, Mt. Mitchell being 282 feet high. The great Fresnel lanterns of the Highland Lights flash 248 feet above the water, visible for many leagues at sea. From the tops of their tall stone towers New York and the Narrows may be seen, with the villages of Long Island, the blue waters of Raritan Bay, the coast as far down as Long Branch, and a vast expanse of ocean. The scenes of Cooper's Water Witch are laid in this vicinity. The coast below is lined with well-known summer-resorts, abounding in hotels. Beginning on the north, with the sea-commanding Highlands of Navesink, we may go southward by Seabright to Long Branch, in Grant's day the summer capital of the Republic, and en riched with many costly villas, 31 miles from New York, and close to the famous Mon mouth-Park race-course ; Elberon, where President Garfield died ; Asbury Park and Ocean Grove, famous Methodist camp-meeting grounds, with the rude tents of former years re placed by huge hotels and many cottages, and the summer-headquarters of bishops, King's Daughters, deaconesses, and other devout persons ; Sea Girt, with the camp of the New- Jersey National Guard ; Point Pleasant, the oldest sea-side resort on the coast ; Seaside Park, on the beach outside of Barnegat Bay ; Tom's River and Tuckerton, quiet old maritime villages on the estuaries ; Atlan tic City, beyond the vast salt-marshes of Absecon, and near Brigantine Beach, with its magnificent strand, favored by people of Philadelphia (64 miles northwest), both in summer and winter; and Cape May, 81 miles from Philadelphia, one of the famous capes of the Delaware Bay. Above Cape May are several beaches. CAPE MAY : OCEAN PIER, THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 555 DELAWARE WATER GAP. The coast consists of broad tidal meadows, with no good harbors, and is starred at night with fifty lights, of which nearly a score glimmer around New- York Bay, while others show the courses up the Delaware as far as Bordentown, and the tall towers of the Cape-May, Abse- con, Barnegat and Navesink lights face the Atlantic. This coast has been called "The Graveyard of the Sea," so numerous have been the wrecks along its barren sands. It is now occupied by a line of stations of the United-States Life-Saving Service. In six years of the last decade, 400 vessels went ashore here, and 4,650 lives and $7,000,000 worth of property were saved, only 80 persons having been lost. Surfmen patrol the beaches through the winter nights ; and when a wreck is discovered they burn red Coston lights, to alarm the stations and to notify the sailors that help is near. The chief rivers include the Passaic and Hackensack (80 miles long), emptying into Newark Bay; the Raritan, navigable to New Brunswick, 17 miles; the Little Egg Harbor and Great Egg Harbor Rivers, emptying into the Atlantic ; and the Maurice. Lakewood is one of the foremost winter-resorts in America, and stands in a dense pine forest, eight miles from the ocean, free from malaria and rich in the perfume of myriads of pine-trees. Thousands of guests enjoy its bracing air every winter and spring. Still greater numbers visit Atlantic City, whose climate is milder, during the inclement season, than almost any other point in the snowy North. Brown's Mills, in the pine woods 30 miles east of Philadelphia, has also been a health-resort for over seventy years. The healthy uplands of the north have a mean temperature of 480 to 50°, and 50 inches of rainfall. The southern plains, under the influence of the ocean, have an annual mean of 54°. with a precipitation of 41 inches. Agriculture employs 30,000 New-Jersey farms, covering 3,000,000 acres, and valued at $265,000,000. The State raises yearly 600,000 tons of hay, worth $7,500,000; 10,000,000 bushels of corn, worth $5,000,000; 3,500,000 bushels of oats and potatoes ; and 2,000,000 bushels of wheat. The Delaware Valley from Trenton to Salem, and other parts of the central counties, are among the most carefully and skillfully developed farming regions in America, being in effect vast market-gardens for New York and Philadelphia. Farmlands are worth more here than in any other State. New Jersey is famous for its peaches, and sends to market yearly above 2,000,000 baskets, the fruit being fully equal in flavor to that of any other region, and much nearer the metropolitan cities. It is also one of the three great cranberry States (the others being Massachusetts and Wis consin), and the crop has exceeded 234,000 bushels in a year. The headquarters of the American Cranberry Growers' Association is at Trenton. The counties of Sussex and Warren and the adjacent Orange County (N. Y.) produce nearly all the apple brandy made in America, their 50 distilleries turning out nearly 200,000 gallons yearly. This fiery spirit is com- ¦-¦ i,bk«k boonton : monly known as applejack, or Jersey lightning. The live- d&i/lSlS' the nail-works. stock of the State is valued at about $20,000,000, and VIEW FROM THE PALISADES. 556 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. INCLINED PLANE, MORRIS CANAL. includes 125,000 horses, 240,000 cattle, 150,000 hogs and 130,000 sheep. The dairy products yield a great amount yearly. Two fifths of the State is covered with forests, whose products in fuel and lumber exceed$5,ooo,ooo yearly. The annual loss by forest-fires exceeds $1,000,000. Minerals. — The Kittatinny Mountain has large quar ries of slate on the southeast, at Delaware Water Gap and Newton, for roofing and flagging ; and water-lime and Rosendale cement on the north. Northwest of the High lands lie the Palaeozoic rocks, and the valuable magnesian limestones and hematite iron-ores of the Kittatinny Valley. The Highlands are of Azoic rocks, syenitic gneiss and crystalline limestone, with great deposits of magnetic iron ore, of which from 500,000 to 1,000,000 tons are mined yearly, and worked in the furnaces at Oxford, Boonton and Phillipsburg, and in Pennsyl vania. This range also yields blue sedimentary rock, for building and for making lime, and has valuable quarries of granite. New Jersey is one of the foremost States in producing zinc, mined at Ogdensburg and Franklin, and worked at Newark and Jersey City. The product of Sussex County since 1880 has averaged over 40,000 tons a year. The 1,540 square miles of the red sandstone plain contain 45.. valuable quarries at Newark, Belleville, Paterson, Orange, Trenton, and Little Falls (whence came the stone for Trinity Church, N. Y.). These firmly cemented de- Wk, |Mri^''^lP^JK§^l^ posits of once incoherent beds of sand contain many fos sils of fishes and plants. The quarries at Greensburg and Prattsville, on the Delaware, send their product largely to Philadelphia. The Perth-Amboy Terra-Cotta Works use 15,000 tons of clay, and turn out $400,000 worth of goods yearly. Trenton makes more pottery and crockery than all the rest of the Atlantic States. The plastic and fire clays of Trenton, Woodbridge and Amboy are pure and highly refractory ; and have a high value in the arts. In a single year, 350,000 tons of these clays have been worked, making a large proportion of American terra cotta, pottery and stone-ware, besides 160,000,000 red bricks and 16,000,000 fire-bricks. The Raritan and Delaware dis tricts yearly send out 250,000 tons of fire-clay and potters' clay, valued at $460,000; and 80,000 tons of fire-sand. From Sandy Hook to Salem ex tend beds of marl, clay marl and shell marl, of which 200,000 tons are used yearly for fer tilizing the soil ; and thick alternating strata of sand and green-sand, the latter of which is used in glass-making. In former days, copper and graphite were obtained in New Jersey, which also has small deposits of lead and nickel, and valuable manganese, sulphate of baryta, kaolin, pyrites and infusorial earth. The rose- crystal marble of Jenny- Jump and the serpen tine of Montville are noteworthy minerals. The Government consists of a governor, elected for three years by the people ; a legisla ture of 2 1 three-years senators and 60 one-year assemblymen ; secretary of state, attorney-gen eral, adjutant-general, quartermaster general, hoboken ; the stevens institute. and other officials appointed by the governor MOUNT BYRAM \ IRON MINE. THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 557 MORRISTOWN : INSANE ASYLUM. and confirmed by the senate ; and a treasurer and comptroller and others appointed by the legislature. The judiciary (mainly appointed by the governor and confirmed by the senate) includes the courts of errors and appeals, of impeachment (the senate), of chancery, of prerogative, and of pardon; the supreme court of nine justices ; and the circuit and common-pleas courts in each county. The State House overlooks the Delaware River, at Trenton, and its front part, built to replace one partly burnt in 1885, is a Renaissance structure, of Indiana oolitic limestone, with a dome and rotunda, and a portico and balcony upheld by polished marble columns. The library of 35,000 volumes, the geological museum, and the battle-flags of the volunteers of 186 1-5, are preserved here. The Geological Survey and its geodetic and topographical works have been of great benefit. These works were begun by Prof. H. D. Rogers (1839-40) and Dr. Wm. Kitchell (1854-6), and continued from 1864 to 1889 by Prof. G. H. Cook. The Labor Bureau con tinually studies ways of opening profitable new avenues for industry ; collects statistics about labor and capital ; and helps these two great forces to agree. The Board of Health collects valuable vital statistics, and investigates all matters pertaining to the public health. The State debt was contracted in 1861-5, mainly for supporting soldiers' families. No State tax has been levied for several years. The National Guard is embodied in a division of two brigades. The First Brigade includes the First (headquarters, Newark), Second (Hoboken), Fourth (Jersey City), and Fifth (Newark) Regiments ; the First, Second, and Third Battalions, of Paterson, Leonia and Orange; Gatling Battery A, of Elizabeth; and five gun detachments. The Second Brigade is made up of the Third (Elizabeth), Sixth (Cam den), and Seventh (Trenton) Regiments, with their gun detachments ; Gatling Battery B, of Camden ; and Company A, Sea-Coast Artillery, of Atlantic City. The reserve militia numbers 285,000 men. One brigade of the National Guard encamps for a week each sum mer at Sea Girt, alongside of the ocean, where the State has a capital camp-ground of 1 19 acres. Great attention is paid to rifle-practice, and gold and silver crosses of honor are awarded to marksmen. The artillery cannonades targets anchored off shore. Skirmish- drill and volley-firing are also practiced. The State owns 46 field-pieces and eight Gatlings. The Arsenal occupies the old State Prison at Trenton, built in 1797; and has several Brit ish and French trophy cannon, and the arms and ammunition, tents, and other military supplies. The New- Jersey Home for Disabled Soldiers was founded in 1865 at Newark, and in 1888 moved into commodious new buildings at Kearney, on the Passaic River. It has 430 inmates, unfortunate veterans of the Secession War. The defective and delinquent persons in New Je number 7,200, costing the State $1,700,000 a year. State Prison at Trenton was finished in 1836, of Ewing red stone, and in Egyptian architecture. It con tains 1,000 convicts. Indeterminate sentences have been recommended for trial here. The State laws forbid that criminals under 16 years shall be confined with adults. The State Industrial School for Girls dates from 1871, and has 90 inmates. It occupies a large farm, in the beautiful Delaware GREENWOOD LAKE. J ersey ~,r PRINCETON I JOHN C. GREEN SCHOOL OF SCIENCE. 55>( KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UN/TED STATES. Valley, two miles north west of Trenton. The State Reform School at Jamesburg, opened in 1867, contains 330 boys, who are taught the Eng lish branches, and also tailoring, shoe-making, printing, brick and tile making and farming. It oc cupies a farm of 490 acres. The vast and impos ing palace of the State Asylum for the Insane, on Morris Plains, contains 900 pa tients, and is one of the best in America. It occupies a farm of 430 acres, and cost 2,250,000. The State Lunatic Asylum, opened in 1848, near the Delaware River, z\ miles northwest of Tren ton, is a high-domed building of red sandstone, accommodating 700 patients. The Home for Feeble- Minded Women and Children was founded at Vineland in 1888. The School for Deaf Mutes at Trenton educates its 125 inmates in Eng lish branches and industrial dex terity. Blind children are supported by the State in Pennsylvania and New- York institutions. The only garrisoned United-States military post in New Jersey is Fort Wood, on Bed- loe's Island, New- York Harbor, where stands Bartholdi's famous statue of Liberty Enlighten ing the World. The United-States Powder Depot is 4^ miles from Dover. Education. — New Jersey has 392,209 children of school-age, of whom 227,441 are en rolled in the free public schools. These schools can accommodate but 212,000. The school- funds, including riparian leases and agricultural-college funds, reach nearly $3,500,000, giving a yearly income of $275,000, besides over $3,000,000 of school-taxes. The value of the school-property exceeds $8, 500,000. The school-libraries contain 90,000 volumes. The State Normal School at Trenton has 250 students. The Model School at Trenton is a fully equipped State academy, with 450 students. The Farnum School, at Beverly, preparatory for the Normal, has 130 students. Princeton College, officially called the College of New Jersey, received its charter in 1746, as a Presbyterian "seminary of true religion and sound learning," and held its earliest ses sions at Elizabethtown and Newark, removing in 1757 to Princeton, whose citizens con tributed liberally to its establishment. The great stone building of Nassau Hall, named for King William III., of the House of Nassau, dates from 1754-7, and was then the largest building in the American colonies. During the Revolution this edifice was for five years a PRINCETON : THE COLLEGE OF NEW JERSEY. THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. H 559 "^^^Efcy-f "i""t NEW BRUNSWICK I RUTGERS COLLEGE. barrack and hospital for the British and American arm ies. The Con- |jj tinental Con gress held ses sions here in the latter part of the Revo lution. When the Secession War broke out, a third of Prince ton's students returned to their homes in the South, and many of those who remained entered the National army, to the great loss of the college. The presidency of the Rev. Dr. James McCosh extended from 1868 to 1888, during which period the college grew from 16 instructors and 264 students to 40 instructors (it now has 50) and 604 students (it now has 750), and also received $3,000,000 in contributions. John C. Green founded the School of Science, and built Dickinson Hall and the Chan cellor-Green Library ; and his estate erected Witherspoon and Edwards Halls and the small observatory, the electrical building and the Laboratory. In all, $1,500,000 came to Princeton from this source. Wm. Libbey gave the University Hotel and the Museum of Geology and Archaeology. Gen. Norris Halsted erected the observatory. Robert Bonner and H. C. Marquand built the beautiful gymnasium ; and the latter erected the chapel. His brother's estate founded the School of Art. The Stuarts gave the president's house and grounds, and founded the School of Philosophy. Mrs. Susan D. Brown gave $175,000 to erect Albert Dod Hall and David Brown Hall. A number of the professorships bear the names of the founders. Princeton has 6,300 alumni, including 1,250 clergymen and 400 physicians. The ancient Nassau Hall and East and West Colleges, and the American Whig and Cliosophic Halls enclose a quiet quadrangle, guarded by two Revolutionary cannon. On either side of this central group, embowered in many trees, are the more modern buildings, with their valuable museums and collections. The libraries contain 80,000 volumes ; and among the treasures of the Art Building are the Mainion Assyrian antiquities and the Trumbull- Prime pottery. Most of the buildings are of stone, and stand in a beautiful campus arranged by Frederick Law Olmsted and Donald G. Mitchell. The Theological Seminary was established in 181 2 by the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church. It has no organic connection with the college. It has a board of directors and a board of trustees. The directors elect the professors, and fill their own vacancies, both subject to a veto of the General Assembly, which thus retains ecclesiastical control over the institution. Besides the original building, it has an additional dormitory, the gift of Mrs. George Brown, of Baltimore, a building for lecture courses, given by R. I. and A. Stuart, of New-York City, a refectory and a chapel, and two library buildings, erected by James Lenox, of New York, besides several pro fessors' houses. These donors, together with the J. C. Green estate, have furnished the larger part of the endowment. The library contains upward of 50,000 volumes. The sem inary has ten instructors, 175 students and 4,000 graduates. Evelyn College is a modern and successful institution for young women, near Princeton College, and has 50 students. Rutgers College received its charter in 1 766, as Queen's College, and opened its doors at New Brunswick, in 1771, mainly to prepare young men for the ministry of the Reformed 56o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Protestant Dutch Church. The buildings were burned by the British, and the institution suffered three periods of suspension, covering 25 years. Under the presidencies of Mille- dolcr, Frelinghuysen, Campbell and Gates (1825-90), the college has advanced steadily, and it now has 23 instructors and 187 students. The shadowy campus contains the noble old brownstone building of Queen's College, the geological hall, the observatory, the beautiful chapel and library, and the handsome colonial dormitory. Winants Hall, erected in 1889-90, with assembly and dining halls, and dormitories for 120 students. The State College for the Promotion of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, founded in 1865, with $116,000 com ing from the Congressional land-grant, is connected with Rutgers, practically as its scientific school, and has an admirable model farm of 100 acres. There are 15 professors, instructing in four courses, chemistry, engineering, electricity, and agriculture. This institution has 50 State scholarships, free of tuition charge. The Stevens Institute of Technology was founded by Edwin A. Stevens, who bequeathed $500,000 for the purpose, and also a block of land close ,, *Js0 ^v , t0 Castle Point, the beautiful Stevens estate at Hoboken. The 'IHto? ^L-to-. institute opened in 1 87 1, and has grown into success, having now ?l^^f%»!§fe2 15 instruc- JERSEY CITY, HOBOKEN, AND THE HUDSON RIVER. tors and more than 200 students, besides a large number in the academy connected therewith. The ancient (Dutch) Reformed Church has but one theological school in America, founded in 1784, and established near Rutgers College in 18 10. It is richly endowed, and has six professors and 60 students, adhering to the Belgic Confession and Heidelberg Catechism. The German Theological Seminary of Newark is a Presbyterian institution, at Bloomfield. Drew Theological Seminary is a Methodist-Episcopal institution, endowed in 1867 with $250,000, by Daniel Drew, the famous New- York broker. It occupies an exten sive domain at Madison, and has over 100 students. Seton-Hall College, at South Orange, is a reputable Catholic institution, founded in 1856, with collegiate, commercial and ecclesi astical courses. Vineland has a Catholic college and theological school, and Newark has a college. The Military Institute is a boarding-school among the ancient elms and chest nuts of the Bonaparte park, at Bordentown. Burlington College (founded in 1846) and St. Mary's Hall are Episcopal schools at Burlington. There are academies of high grade at Hightstown, Morristown, Plainfield, Pennington, Beverly, Hackettstown, Hoboken, Law- enceville, Bridge- I \ . -., '.to'to, ¦ W\ I ton> Belvidere, Blairstown, and other places. _ ^•-C^'^"--£-Zlis^Ja.aiLi^'--.- - Chief Cities. — One-fifth of the population is foreign, with 100,000 Irishmen, 80,000 Germans and 40,000 Englishmen. Newark, nine miles west of New York, is an en terprising city on the plains of the Passaic, four miles from Newark Bay, with eleven banks, 120 churches, and 400 factories. $60,000,000 in rubber, leather, jewelry and other goods, and flour and beer, are long branch : monmouth-park race course, produced here yearly. Jersey City has several lines THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 56i of steam ferry-boats across the Hudson River to New- York City. The great railways to the south and west terminate here, and also several import ant steamship lines. Hoboken, on the Hudson, just above Jersey City, is also a terminal point for railway and steamship lines. Trenton (Trent's- town, for Col. Wm. Trent, its owner in 1720), the capital, is a clean, thrifty and pleasant city, on the Delaware, with great potteries and other NEWARK : POST-OFFICE. works. Gen. McClellan is buried in the Riverview Cemetery. Camden faces Philadelphia, across the Delaware, and has ship-yards, factories, and immense market-gardens. Pater- son, at the falls of the Passaic River, is the chief American seat of the silk-making industry, in which it has 8,000 opera tives, besides thousands in cotton, woolen and velvet mills. Elizabeth has the suburban homes of many New-York mer chants. New Brunswick, on the Raritan, contains immense rubber and harness manufactories. Among .other cities are Rahway, with its great carriage- factories; Perth Amboy, once the capital of New Jersey and a rival of New York ; Prince ton, with the graves of Jonathan Edwards and Aaron Burr; Millville, with glass-factories; Plainfield, a pleasant hat-making city ; Phillipsburg, with iron-works on the Delaware ; Orange, with the pleasant homes of New-York merchants, under the long shadow of Orange Mountain ; Morristown, a dignified old shiretown, with the villas of many New- York gentle men; Burlington, an ancient Quaker town, on the Delaware, bombarded by British gunboats in 1776; Bordentown, another pleasant little river- city ; Bridgeton, on the Cohansey, not far from Delaware Bay, with iron, glass and woolen mills ; Vineland, a New- England colony on the great pine-plains of South Jersey ; Bayonne, on New- York harbor, with enor mous petroleum refineries ; and Mount Holly, in the Rancocas Valley. Insurance is a prominent feature of the advanced civilization of New Jersey, and there are several strong companies here, doing a large and profit able business. The foremost fire-insurance company of New Jersey is the American Insurance Company, located at Newark. It was founded away back in 1 846, and has had an uninterrupted career of success. Fortunately for the company, its operations were confined almost entirely to New Jersey until after the Chicago and Boston conflagrations. In 1873 it entered a few outside cities, and in 1880 extended operations generally throughout the country, on a conservative basis, in approved localities, with agents in the chief Northern and Western cities, and on the Pacific Coast. A note- NEWARK : AMERICAN ,,,..'. , . . insurance co. worthy fact about the American is that its surplus not only exceeds NEWARK I MUTUAL BENEFIT LIFE IN6URANCE CO. HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. $1,000,000, but it is larger than the cash capital and the lia bilities united. The American leads all other New- Jersey com panies in total assets as well as in surplus ; although no company is more conservative and none less ostentatious. Among the oldest and strongest insurance corporations of America, whose immense and beneficent operations have amazed the financial world, the Mutual Benefit Life-Insurance Co., of i Newark, occupies a peculiarly interesting position. Among its j:.\' | ; to,:; ¦!(!¦,!,.'¦'¦ .'; principles are the following: It has no capital, but is conducted on j the purely mutual plan, for the insurance of lives upon the regu lar or level premium system. All profits are divided among the policy-holders, in the form of yearly dividends. The policies are non-forfeitable, and incontestable after the second year ; and the full reserve value of a lapsed policy is applied by the com pany to keeping the insurance in force, or (if preferred) to the purchase of a paid-up policy for a reduced amount. The Mutual Benefit was founded in 1845, and has collected from its policy-holders $133,000,000, and paid out to its policy holders $60, 000, 000 for policy claims, $15, 000, 000 for surrendered policies, a'nd $39, 000, 000 for dividends. It has 65,000 policies, covering $172,000,000, and its assets are $47,000,000, with a surplus of $3,500,000. Amzi Dodd is president, and James B. Pearson, vice-presi dent. There is no sounder or more conservative corporation in America. The Railroads of New Jersey enjoy a remarkable prosperity, since they join the greatest cities in America. The Camden & Amboy line <-. received incorporation in 1830, and for its first six months (in 1833), 'he trains were drawn by horses. The United New- Jersey Railroad runs from Camden to Amboy (61 miles), from Philadelphia to Jersey City (88 miles), and from Trenton to Manunka Chunk (68 miles). The Central Railroad of New Jersey runs from Jersey City to Phillipsburg, from Elizabeth to Perth Amboy and Long Branch, and from Long Branch southwest to Delaware Bay. Several lines cross from arthur-kill bridge. Philadelphia to Cape May, Atlantic City and the summer-resorts farther up ; and other routes connect New York with the favorite beaches from Sandy Hook to Barnegat Bay. The Baltimore & Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Atlantic Coast lines traverse the State. Canals. — The famous old Morris Canal formerly had a large coal-carrying trade over its 101 miles from Jersey City to Phillipsburg. It cost $3,500,000, and was opened in 1831. The Delaware and Raritan Canal (New Brunswick to Bordentown) cost $4,500,000. The Manufactories of New Jersey number over 7,000, with 130,000 operatives $110,000,000 capital, $50,000,000 yearly wages, and a product of $250,000,000 yearly. Within the last 30 years the transporting and refining of petroleum has grown from nothing to be one of the leading American indus tries.' Foremost among the great companies en gaged in this business are the Tide Water Pipe Com pany and its off-shoot, the Tide Water Oil Com pany. The former com pany, organized in 1878 bayonne ; the tide-water oil company. by B. D. Benson, of Titus- THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 563 the tide-water oil company. ville (Pa. ), who became its first president, gathers in the Pennsylvania oil-regions 7, 500 barrels of crude oil a day, and transports it through 320 miles of six-inch pipe (under a pressure of 1,200 pounds a square inch) to Bayonne (N. J.), where it is delivered to the Tide Water Oil Company. This latter corporation was formed in 1889 by the consolidation of four smaller companies. Its works, located on New- York Harbor, form the largest single oil-refinery in the world, and are valued at $6,000,000. They cover 107 acres, and have an annual ca pacity of 3,000,000 barrels of crude oil. At its docks are berths for 30 vessels, with a. depth of water sufficient for the largest ocean steamers. Here is often seen a fleet of fine East-India clippers, loading with case oil for countries of the far East, together with great bulk steamers loading for England and Ger many. So good are the facilities that a bulk steamer carrying 1,200,- 000 gallons has been loaded in 14 hours. There are 1,800 men employed. The crude material used yearly includes 125,000 tons of coal, 13,500,000 pounds of sulphuric acid, 20,500,000 feet of lumber for cases, 8,800 tons of tin-plate for cans, and 4,000,000 white-oak staves for barrels. The company manufactures all petroleum products, but makes a specialty of illuminating oils and naphtha, paraffine and lubricating oils. It is the only powerful rival of the octopus Standard Oil Company, and how great a rival it is may be judged from the fact that its annual sales amount to over $9,000,000. In making hats, New Jersey is second only to Connecticut, turning out yearly 9,000,000 hats, from 82 factories. Fifty glass-furnaces employ 5,000 persons, with an output of $3,000,000 a year. Silk-mills employ 13,000 persons, producing $17,000,000 a year. One of the most impressive industrial establishments in America is the enormous sewing- machine factory of the Singer Manufacturing Co. , lying between the beautiful Singer Park and Newark Bay, at Elizabeth. These spacious and handsome brick buildings cover 18 acres of floor space, and stand among and around lawns and trees, the entire estate including 32 acres, with four miles of railroad upon it, and one side bounded by a long dock frontage, where the company's steamboat takes on freight daily. The works employ 3, 300 persons, and make 1,500 sewing-machines a day. When Isaac Merritt Singer, poor and unknown, but great in faith, set his first rude sewing-machine in operation, at Boston, in the year 185 1, he conferred an inesti mable benefit on the human race. After the late Edward Clark became Singer's partner, the business was moved to New York, where the chief offices remain, though the main American works have been at Elizabeth since 1873. The company has avast capital, with stores and salaried men in every civilized and uncivilized land, over 1,000 American branches, two large wood-working factories in this country, and a factory in Canada, another in Australia, and im mense works near Glasgow, Scotland, employing 4, 500 workers. This company has invented and controls more special processes used in manufacturing and has produced a greater variety of machines than all other houses in its line com bined. Nearly ten million of its machines are now in use, and the ambition of the company is' to make a million machines a year. It is said that the employees of the Singer Company, in cluding all those engaged in the executive, manufacturing, operating and selling depart ments, will outnumber those of any other one concern in the world, as they form an industrial Elizabeth : singer manufacturing co. army of 40,ooo workers. 564 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. jersey city: lorillard tobacco works. The Lorillard Tobacco Works in Jersey City are the oldest in America and the largest in the world for making tobacco in every va riety. This pre-eminent industry was founded in 1760, by Pierre Lorillard, an enterprising French Huguenot, who opened a little tobacco- shop on the Boston turnpike (now Chatham Street), in New York. His snuff mill, on the Bronx River, made all the animals sneeze for miles around (or so the newspapers declared). The business grew amain, under the command of Pierre Lorillard, and then, his widow, and then his sons, until now in the hands of his grandsons and great-grandsons it employs4,ooo persons in connection with its enormous and unrivalled industries, and makes nearly 25, 000, - 000 pounds a year. The structure in which fine-cut and smoking tobacco and snuff are made covers a full city square, and the plug-tobacco factory covers two squares. P. Loril lard & Co. have experts in the South, sampling, buying and forwarding the crude tobaccos ; and the manufactured articles are sent all over the world, in enormous quantities. This house has paid the United-States Government, in the last 25 years, over $50,000,000 in taxes. The Lorillards look carefully after the comfort of their operatives, with light and airy work rooms, a library and a dispensary, and evening and sewing schools. A wise philosopher once said "The love of soap is the test of civilization, and the love of refined soap marks an advance in culture." From this reasonable point of view, one of the powerful cul tivating agencies in modern times is the old and sub stantial house of Colgate & Co., — the unrivalled fine soap makers of America — whose Cashmere Bouquet and many other exquisite toilet soaps and perfumes are used in immense quantities all over civilized Amer ica and Europe. This industry began in 1806, on the site occupied to-day by its offices, in John Street, New York, and its works now cover an entire block in Jer sey City, and employ 700 hands. In Southern France alone, 90 tons of roses are gathered every year for Colgate & Co. , to be made up into the most delicate and fragrant extracts and colognes, toilet soaps and sachet powders, pure and hygienic in composition and enduring in perfume. These articles have almost entirely supplanted European soaps in America, and have also won great success abroad. The oldest and largest bottle-glass manufacturers in America are the Whitney Glass Works, making green, flint, and amber bottles and stoppers, and bottles for proprietary medicine-makers, apothecaries, stationers, perfumers and bottlers. This industry was founded in 1775, by seven brothers named Stanger, practical glass-blowers from Europe, .___.. --, who foresaw that America, then on -_ ft -5 _-?- fS8ip| the eve of the long Revolutionary War, ''TO .' . - J would need to make her own glass- " '1 '',1!?. :-K:[..rl '- 1 , to'/... /' fiff^fsl ware- ¦*' 'he close of the war, Col. to^I Heston, an officer of the Continental \9m army, bought and enlarged the works, I which are now managed by his great- 1 grandsons, Thos. W. Synnott and John P. Whitney, the former being the presi- r s mi.M'!" p?., '. ii'Hii ||l(|l|jft|Hil JERSEY CITY : COLGATE & CO. ^l^T_i GLASSSORO : WHITNEY GLASS-WORKS. THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 565 D. WOOD & ' dent and the latter the treasurer of the com pany. The works were incorporated in 1887, with a capital of $500,000. Within ten years the plant has more than trebled its production, and now employs 1,200 hands, oftentimes work ing night and day. The great factory at Glass- boro has the five largest patent tank-furnaces in America, with protected working parts, mak ing the metal more solid and of a handsomer color than the old processes could. The com pany also has factories at Camden and Salem, N. J. The main offices and warehouses are in Philadelphia, with branches at New York and Boston, and agencies in other cities. Southern New Jersey has the greatest American industry in its special lines of cast-iron pipe and gas and water apparatus in the foundries of R. D. Wood & Co., at Millville, Flor ence and Camden, employing 1,300 men, and making all kinds of cast-iron pipe, fire hydrants and valves, gas machinery, hydraulic and pumping machinery and travelling cranes, sugar- house work, Geyelin's duplex turbine-wheels, large loam-work, Eddy valves, Matthew's fire-hydrants, lamp-posts and other heavy appliances. They also design and construct enor mous gas-holders, either single-lift or telescopic (without heavy supporting frames), purifiers, condensers, and scrubbers. The casting capacity is about 600 tons a day. These articles are sent all over the United States and Canada, and to Cuba and Central and South America. San Diego and Tacoma, Cienfuegos and Caracas, Ottawa and Halifax alike have R. D. Wood & Co.'s work. The plant at Millville was started by the father of the present owners, in 1803, when the heavy timber of South Jersey made a charcoal furnace possible. The patent water-tube steam-boilers of the Babcock & Wilcox Co. are constructed for the United States in Elizabeth, and shipped from there to all parts of the country. The inventor of the principle of inclined water-tubes connecting water-spaces front and rear with a steam space above was Stephen Wilcox, in 1856. The joint patent of George H. Babcock and S. Wil cox was given in 1867, the main idea being to insure safety from explosion, but (as now developed and secured by upwards of 100 patents) also large draught area, complete com bustion, thin heating surface, quick steaming, great durability, and economy of steam. Babcock & Wilcox boilers are used by many of the largest concerns in the world, such as Spreckels's, the Cardenas, the Brooklyn, and the Boston Sugar Refineries, the Vienna Im perial Gas Association, the Vienna Opera House, the Deptford electrical plants, London, the great "Popp Co." in Paris, the Pennsylvania Steel Works, the New-York Steam Co., the Edison Co., the Hotel Ponce de Leon, and many others, besides a long list of factories of all kinds. The resources of the Babcock & Wilcox Co. are above $1,000,000, and their sales in 1890 amounted to 125,000 horse-power. This is the preeminent steam-boiler manu facturing establishment in the world, having factories also in Scotland, France, Germany and Austria. The main offices are in New York and London, and there are numerous branch offices in the United States, and in all parts of the globe, receiving orders for these exceedingly ingenious and valuable steam-boilers. millville : WOOD & CO. ELIZABETH : BABCOCK &. WILCOX CO. 566 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. EAST NEWARK : HARTSHORN SHADE-ROLLER WORKS. The Hartshorn family entered the shade-roller business in 1850, and in 1864 Stewart Hartshorn put an end to centuries of general an noyance from the old and trouble some cord-and-ratchet devices, by inventing the self-acting pawl-spring shade-rollers, which are now in use all over the civilized world. In 1872 the business was moved from New York to a spacious new factory, built at East New ark for the purpose ; and when even this large establishment became inadequate to supply the demand, in spite of enlargements, new factories were erected at Muskegon (Mich.) and Toronto (Canada). In these works seven tenths of the self-acting shade-rollers of the world are made. All along new patents for many improvements have been taken out. Medals have been received at eight world's fairs, including the Philadelphia Centennial, Paris, and Barcelona. Stewart Hartshorn was the founder of, and is now actively engaged in enlarging and building up Short Hills (N. J.), an ideal home village, where he has great investments. One of the greatest business enterprises which have now entered upon their second cen tury is the Barbour Bros. Co., founded in 1774, and now employing over 5>°°o persons in its mills at Lisburn (Ireland), Ottensen (Germany), and Paterson, N. J. The industry was established in America by Thomas Barbour, in 1854, and has salesrooms and storehouses at New York, Boston, Chicago, Philadelphia, St. Louis, San Francisco and Montreal, with sales all over the continent, amounting to $3,000,000 a year. The Barbour Irish flax threads are used by boot and shoe and harness makers, book-binders, glove- makers, carpet-mills, clothiers and tailors, fisher men, embroiderers, and everyone needing linen thread. Two valuable specialties are the twines made here for harnessing Jacquard looms, and for McKay machine sewing. At the Paterson mills the Irish flax is hackled and drawn down fine, twisted by women, tested and dyed, balled and wound on spools by automatic ma chinery. The plant is said to be double that of any other linen-thread maker in the world. One of the .most useful of recent inventions is celluloid, a tough, elastic and fairly hard material of various colors. It is not fibrous, but homogeneous, and grows harder by age. The Celluloid Company has large works at Newark, where 300 people are busied in making umbrella handles, collars and cuffs, mouth-pieces for pipes, manicure implements, and hundreds of familiar articles, useful and ornamental, in imitation of amber, coral, mal achite, ivory, tortoise-shell, and other precious materials. The celluloid is as well adapted to these uses as the materials which it exactly sim ulates, and more durable, besides being furnished at a small fraction of the cost. Collars and cuffs ^ are made of linen, covered with a thin coating of pure white celluloid. The ingenious processes supply the people with a vast variety of beautiful and durable articles, at very low prices. The name "Celluloid" has been adopted by the company as its trade mark, and its right to it has been established by the Courts. The Celluloid Novelty Company retired from business in 1890, and was succeeded by the Celluloid Co., whose main offices are in New- York City. M. C. Lefferts is president, and F. R. Lefferts, treasurer. PATERSON ! BARBOUR BROS. NEWARK : THE CELLULOID CO. 34,076 . S9oo,ooo ®1 7,000, ooo 122,580 Voting Population {1. Net Public Debt, . . Taxable Property (188c Area (square miles), Delegate to Congress, I Militia (Disciplined), 1,662 Counties, . 16 Post-offices, . . 250 Railroads (miles), . . 1,324 Manufactures (yearlj), . §1,300,000 Operatives, . . . 600 Farm Land (in acres), . 631,131 Farm-Land Values, . 8=1,500,000 Farm Products (yearK ) $2,000,000 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 12,300 Newspapers, . ... 39 Latitude, . . 31^20' to 37° N. Longitude, ioj° 2' to ioo° 2' W. Temperature, . . . — 15I to 1150 Mean Temperature (Santa Fe) 51" TEN CHIEF PLACES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. The first white man in New Mexico was an officer of the ill-fated Florida ex pedition of Narvaez, Cabeza de Vaca, who with three companions crossed Texas and the Pueblo region in 1536, and reached Spanish Mexico. Three years later, Fray Marcos de Nizza visited Zufii ; and in 1540 Coronado, the governor of New Galicia, marched into New Mexico, and conquered many towns by siege or assault. Bands of Franciscans founded missions among the savage tribes, and many won the crown of martyrdom. Their labors were rewarded by the rise of 40 churches, attended by 36,000 native communicants. The first settlement was made by Don Juan de Ofiate, of Zacatecas, who marched from Mex ico in 1598 with 400 Spanish soldiers and 130 families. The colony arose on the north of the Rio Chama, and bore the name of San Gabriel de los Espanoles. In 1605 the present capital was founded, under the name of La Ciudad Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco. In 1680 Po-pe raised his Indian brethren in revolt, and drove the Spaniards from the territory. For twelve years the Pueblos defeated every advance of the Spaniards, but Gov. Diego de Vargas occupied the country with his army in 1692. When Mexico became independent, in 1822, New Mex ico was governed by Political Chiefs, who, after 1835, were appointed, instead of elected. The latter innovation, and a new direct taxation, caused the north to rise in revolt, and the rebels defeated Gov. Perez, and killed him and most of his officials, in 1837. Gen. Manuel Armijo afterwards crushed the rebellion, and held the governorship till 1847, when Kearny's Army of the West, marching 900 miles across the plains, from Missouri, occupied the Territory. New Mexico west of the Rio Grande belonged to the region ceded by Mexico to the United States in 1848 ; and the part east of the Rio Grande was ceded by Texas in 1850. In the latter year Congress organized Settled at . Settled in . Founded by Spaniards. Organized as a Territory, 1850 Population in i860, 93.516 In 1870, 91.874 In 1880, 119,565 White, 108,721 Colored, . . 10,844 American-born, 111,514 Foreign-born, 8,051 Males, . 64,496 Females, .... 55.069 In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 153,593 Population to the square mile, Santa Fe, . 7,500 Albuquerque,Las Vegas, . Socorro, . 7,000 6,000 4,200 Silver City, 2,500 Las Cruces, 2,300 Taos, . Raton, . . 2,000 1,600 San Marcial, . 1,000 568 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. SANTA CRUZ SHRINE AND CHURCH. this Territory, covering New Mexico, as it now is ; Arizona, north of the Gila ; Nevada, up to 370 ; and the part of Colorado between 1030, the Arkansas River and the Rocky Mountains. In 1854 the Mexican cession of 1853 became part of New Mexico. The Colorado sec tion was taken off in 186 1 ; and Arizona and southern Nevada in 1863. The trade between Missouri and New Mexico, on the Santa-Fe Trail, began early in this century ; and the freight was carried on pack-animals until 1824, when mule and ox wagons ("prairie schooners ") came into use. Cotton cloths, dry-goods, and hardware were brought to the Southwest, and exchanged for Chihuahua silver bullion, New-Mexican gold-dust, buffalo- robes, blankets and wool. Up to 1 83 1 the American caravans started from Franklin (now Boonville), on the Missouri ; and afterwards from Independence. The usual route was up the Arkansas, then the Spanish frontier, which was crossed 400 miles out, after which the trail led across to the Cimarron, and struck for the great landmark of Wagon Mound, whence it passed Las Vegas and entered Santa Fe. The 800 miles of the journey outward took 70 days ; the return was made in 40 days, flying light. The caravan left the ren dezvous at Council Grove in May, and reached Santa Fe in July, starting back in August. The attacks of Indians made it necessary to send strong escorts of dragoons, at times, for over $2,000,000 worth of goods were carried in a single caravan. As early as 1846 this trade employed 500 men, 400 wagons, 1,700 mules and 2,000 oxen. With singular loyalty to the Government that had conquered them, the New-Mexicans took up arms for the Union, in 1861. Kit Carson, St. Vrain and other gallant frontiersmen helped to organize the Spanish volunteers and militia, under the Stars and Stripes. Some of the officers of the old army joined the enemy ; but of the 1,200 regular soldiers in New Mexico not one proved false to his colors. The governors, Rencher and Connelly, and the Legislature stood fast for the Union ; expunged the law protecting slavery ; and called out the militia to defend the National property. Early in 1862 Gen. H. F. Sibley advanced with 2,300 Texans, and defeated Col. Canby's larger Federal army at Valverde, routing his troops and taking their artillery. The heroic Texan infantry stormed and captured the regular battery with revolvers. Among the Union forces were Carson's First, Pino's Second, Valdez's Third, and parts of the Fourth and Fifth Regiments of New-Mexico volunteers. The Federals lost 263 men ; and a lofty monument to these patriots adorns the Plaza at Santa Fe. The Confederates then occupied Socorro and Albuquerque, and advanced northward, intending to seize the military supplies at Fort Union, and to cut off transcontinental communication between California and the East. But Slough's First Colorado (Pike's- Peakers) and the New-Mexican volunteers defeated them at La Glorieta (Apache Pass), and they retreated down the Rio Grande. Sibley occupied Santa Fe for a time ; but the people were so hostile, and provisions so scanty, that he retreated across the mountains and the Jornada del Muerto to Texas, having lost half his army. Gen. Carleton's Cali fornia column, the First and Fifth California Infantry, the First California Cavalry, and a regular battery, marched east ward from Los Angeles across Arizona, in 1862, and occu pied Las Cruces and Mesilla, advancing 240 miles into Texas, as far as El Paso, Fort Quitman and Fort Bliss. This strong occupation held New Mexico for the Union safely, PUEBancientSAchijrchlARA an^ most °f the 6,000 local volunteers were disbanded. PUEBLO VILLAGE. THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 569 SANTA FE : THE OLDEST DWELLING HOUSE IN THE UNITED STATES. With the Atchison Railroad came an army of adventurous Americans, whose achievements in stock-raising and farming, mining and town-building, aroused the Spanish residents to new life and activity, and the development of the Territory has since gone forward rapidly, especially since the subju gation of the Apaches. The uncertainty as to land-titles has worked against the settlement of New Mexico. The United States, by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, agreed to protect property-holders; and 10,000,000 acres are now claimed under old Spanish grants, but cannot be assured until the Territory is fully surveyed and titles confirmed. The Name, Nuevo Mexico, was given by Espejo, one of the early Spanish explorers, because of the resemblance of the country to the mining re gions of Mexico. It is first met in Padre Rodriguez's Testimonio, in 1582-3. A popular pet name is The Sunshine State, or The Land of Sunshine and Silver. The Arras of New Mexico bear the American eagle, with its olive-branch and arrows, and the Mexican eagle, standing on the cactus and strangling a serpent. The motto is : Crescit Eundo : "It increases by going." The Governors included 76 Spanish and Mexican nobles and gentlemen. Then came the American Territorial governors: Charles Bent, 1846-7; Lieut. -Col. J. M. Washington (military), 1848-9; Maj. John Munroe, 1849-50; James S. Calhoun, 1851-2; Wm. Carr Lane, 1852-4; David Meriwether, 1854-7; Abra ham Rencher, 1857-61 ; Henry Connelly, 1 86 1 -5 ; Wm. F. M. Amy (acting), 1865-6; Robert B. Mit chell, 1866-7; Wm. A. Pile, 1869-71; Marsh Gid- dings, 1871-5 ; Samuel B. Axtell, 1875-9 S Lewis Wallace, 1879-82; Lionel A. Sheldon, 1882-5; E. G. Ross, 1885-9; andL. Bradford Prince, 1889-93. Descriptive. — New Mexico is larger than Great Britain and Ireland united, three times as large as all New England, and equal in area to New York, Penn sylvania and Ohio combined. Mountain-ranges trav erse the Territory, and give diversity to its semi-Oriental scenery. The Sangre-de-Cristo range enters from Colorado, and runs nearly to Santa Fe, with Costilla Peak, 12,615 feet; Taos Peak, 13,145; Mora, 12,020; Truchas, 13,150; Jicarita, 14,162; and Baldy, 12,661. The Raton Range runs eastward along the Colorado border. Below Santa Fe, the Chilili, Manzano, Oscuro, San Andreas and Organ Mountains form an almost continuous range on the east of the Rio Grande, finally crossing the river at El Paso, and entering Mexico. In the south east are the Sacramento, Jicarilla, Guadalupe, and Hueco mountains, and the Sierra Blanca and Sierra Capitan. West of the Rio Grande line after line of noble peaks swells up to the westward until the Carrizo, Tunicha and Chusca Ranges form the continental divide of the Sierra Madre, whence streams flow to the Gulf of California and the Gulf of Mex ico. The plateaus are covered with wild gramma and other grasses, but grow arid and desolate towards the west. Some of these plains are over spread with sage-brush, and others bear many leagues of pinon and stunted cedar. The mountains rise from vast plateaus of lava, and are deeply gashed by canons, and dimpled by lovely park -valleys. The mean elevation above the sea is 5, 600 feet, and 2, 500 square miles are more than 10,000 feet high. Fully 14,000,000 acres are in mountains, and 4,000,000 mm^S^i. mmm SANTA FE J CHURCH OF SAN MIGUEL. jasp* iff " ""-"- ¦-- fc >^fcS^g«W«fiSJL£i 57° KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. are irreclaimable deserts, or grazing lands, leaving 39,000,000 acres of irrigable domain. Two thirds of the Territory is open for settlement. East of the Rio Grande stretch frowning leagues of Mai Pais (or " Bad Country"), covered with lava, volcanic sand and salt- marshes. The Jornada del Muerto (or "Journey of Death ") is a tract of 90 by 40 miles in area, between San- Marcial and Rincon, surrounded by vast mountain-ranges, and once sadly celebrated for the number of men and animals who died of thirst on its lonely deserts. The broad San-Augustin Plains are in the west; and around ORAIBA : EASTERN COURT. THE MESA : THE SITE OF ZUNI. Deming occur other level tracts of vast extent. The Rio Grande, ' ' the Nile of the New World, " flows south 356 miles through the centre of New Mexico. After leaving the San-Luis Park, it rushes through a profound cation in the lava-beds, and then follows a narrow valley to P'ort Craig, beyond which much of its course lies through canons down to Rincon. After a dry summer, the Rio Grande is dry for 100 miles above El Paso, the water having all been taken out by irrigating ditches. The Rio Pecos, 800 miles long, is a source of enrichment to the eastern counties. The Canadian River rises in the Sangre-de-Cristo Mountains, and flows east 200 miles in New Mexico. There are some fine farming lands in this section, and in the tributary valleys of the Verm- ejo and Little Cimarron, and in the Mora Valley, which is 65 miles long and five miles wide. The rivers of the west, tributary to the Colorado, are the Gila, San-Fran cisco and Zufii, with valuable bottom-lands, which also appear along the San-Juan, in the far northwest. This pastoral country is carpeted with nutritious grasses, and the climate is so mild that no winter-shelter is needed for the flocks. In former times, cattle and sheep ranged the free plains for leagues, but now in many sections the herds are confined to fenced tracts. The Great Plains enter on the northeast, and are pro longed by the famous Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain, a treeless and waterless grassy plateau of 44,000 square miles, nearly 5,000 feet above the sea. In some localities water cannot be found for 40 miles, and the cattle drink but twice a week. The Staked Plain derives its name from the stiff boles of the yucca plant. Sheep are found in every county, and numbered 2,000,000 in 1888, producing 8,000,000 pounds of wool yearly. Vast flocks are owned by the Navajo Indians. In the old days, a million sheep were driven hence to Mexico every year, and sold for 25 cents a head ; but now they are sent to the States, and bring $2 each. They are small and coarse-wooled, and feed on gramma and bunch grasses and sage-brush. With the occupation of large areas by immigrants, the cattle-ranges have been restricted, but the number of cattle has steadily increased, and is now estimated at above 1,200,000. New Mexico has an abundant supply of timber, the tall, straight pines of the highlands, the cottonwoods and quaking aspens, cedars and oaks, walnuts and maples, and others. The higher mountains bear great forests of evergreens. The goblin-like yucca palm of the deserts is valuable for paper-making. The Climate is remarkably dry, salubrious and bracing, with an atmosphere of great clearness and wolpi : dancers' rock. purity. Meat hung up outdoors dries without taint. S7i A MOQUI VILLAGE. THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. Santa Fe sometimes experiences as cold weather in winter as New York, because it is higher than the top of Mt. Washington. The towns farther south are lower, and hence much warmer. There is a period between mid- July and mid- September, when the sunny mornings are followed by long showery afternoons. Snow rarely visits the lowlands ; and the general rainfall on the plains, of from eight to 22 inches, is inadequate for farming purposes. There are fewer deaths here from tubercular diseases than anywhere else in the United States. The hot days of the lowlands are not debili tating, on account of their dryness, and are followed by cool and bracing nights. The climate is healing for people with consumption, asthma, bronchitis, Bright's disease and general de bility; but aggravates rheumatism, catarrh and heart-disease. Almost any variety of temper ature maybe found by changing altitude, from the Italy of the valleys to the Norway of the Sierras. The air is so clear that it is difficult to estimate the distances of visible objects. Farming. — The narrow valleys of the Rio Grande, San- Juan, Pecos, Canadian and other rivers are dowered with arable land of unusual fertility, prolific in grain and vegeta bles. The fruits are famous for their extraordinary size and beauty, and include vast quan tities of grapes, peaches, apples, apricots, pears, melons, and quinces. The yearly product of wine exceeds 240,000 gallons. The Mesilla Valley, 70 miles long, is one of the richest farming countries in the world, especially for grains, fruits and grapes. The temperature never descends be low 1 50, and snow seldom falls, and never remains. The valleys are composed of a rich sandy loam, light and porous, and very productive of corn, wheat, barley, oats and vegetables. The onions and sweet and white pota toes are prodigious in size, and cabbages sometimes weigh 60 pounds each. Beans grow so profusely as to form the chief diet. The cereal crop of New Mexico is greater than those of Colorado or Montana. Mining. — The New-Mexican output of bullion is continually increasing. In 1886 it was $3,822,000; in 1887, §4,229,000; in 1888, $6,220,000; in 1889, $8,110,000. Precious metals are found in the hill country, and were extensively mined by the Spaniards, until 1680, when the victorious Pueblos filled up all the shafts. The Moreno gold placers of Elizabethtown produced much treasure ; and the region of Pinos Altos and Silver City, in the southwest, has also been generous. Gold-mines are worked at many points, but chiefly from placers, and there are large milling and smelting plants. Silver and lead are mined at Kingston, Magdalena, Cerrillos, Cook's Peak, and Sierra Blanca. The ores are less rich, but also less refractory, than those of Colorado. The extensive coal-fields of Los Cerrillos supply localities as far away as Missouri and Mex ico, with valuable anthracite, and produce bitumi nous coal also. In the vicinity are promising deposits of iron, copper, lead, zinc and silver. White Oaks has contiguous deposits of coal and iron, with gold and other valuable minerals. The Gallup coal-mines produce 300,000 tons a year. There are coal-mines at Blossburg and Amargo, in the north, and at San Pedro, near Santa Fe. The copper-mines at San Pedro have produced at the rate of $700,000 a year, and there are valua- able deposits at Santa Rita. Elsewhere are found ALBUQUERQUE I THE CATHEDRAL AND PLAZA. CHAMITA : OLD MILL. RATON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 572 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. marl and gypsum, zinc and manganese, with lead in the Organ Mountains, iron at Pinos Altos and Embudo, copper in the Mogollon, Manzano and Picuris Mountains, and tin in Rio -Arriba County. The close-grained red sandstone of the Rio-Grande Valley affords a handsome building material ; and there are val uable deposits of limestone, marble and slate. The turquoise-mines, 25 miles south of Santa Fe, were worked during the Spanish occupation, and the handsomest turquoise in Europe (now in the regalia of Spain) came from this wilderness. The Las- Vegas Hot- Springs bubble out on a plateau of the Rocky Mountains, 6,767 feet high, and have been used as a health-resort since 1846. The great Montezuma Hotel has been replaced by the Phcenix Hotel, one of the finest in the West. There are 40 springs, the hottest being 1300; and the mineral constituents include chlorides, sulphates, and car bonates of sodium, calcium and magnesium. The baths are of various kinds, mud, medicated and others, in a spacious red-granite bath-house ; and people also drink the waters freely. Benefit is derived by sufferers from rheumatism, gout, skin diseases, debility, and other maladies. The winters are mild, dry and windless ; and the noble scenery of mountain and plain, the attractions for hunters and anglers, and the strange traditions of the Mexican country afford a variety of interest. Among the other hot springs with hotels and accommo dations are the Ojo Caliente, Jemez, San Antonio, Hudson's Hot Springs, Baca's Soda Springs, and the Aztec mineral spring, near Santa Fe. Government. — The governor and secretary are appointed by the President. The council of twelve and the house of representatives of 24 members make up the legislature (usually Republican), elected biennially. The legislature is almost entirely composed of natives, naturally eloquent and naturally economical, and 33 out of 36 of them understanding the English language. There are six territorial officials, and groups of minor county officials. The Supreme Court has four justices, and there are also probate and district courts. The new Territorial Capital at Santa Fe was erected at a cost of $250,000, and is of buff sand stone. The Territorial Library contains 10,000 volumes. The New-Mexican Printing Co. at Santa Fe publishes the oldest newspaper between the upper Arkansas and Colorado Rivers; prints the territorial laws in English and Spanish ; and has a book-bindery. There are three Spanish papers published at Santa Fe, one at Taos, and one at Las Vegas. The 28th Legis lative Assembly created the following institutions, and levied taxes for their support : The Agricultural College, near Las Cruces (now open) ; the School of Mines, at Socorro ; the University of New Mexico, at Albuquerque ; and the Insane Asylum, at Las Vegas. The New-Mexico School for the Deaf 0~ and Dumb is at Santa .Fe, where there is also a Territorial hospital, and the penitentiary. The United-States army posts are Fort Bayard, with six companies ; Forts Union and Wingate, five com panies each; Fort Stanton, Fort Selden and Fort Marcy, three com panies each. The headquarters of the military district is at Santa Fe, where the infantry band makes pleasant music on the plaza. The garrisons include 1,500 men. SANTA FE, FR0M THE C0LLEGE. THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 573 SANTA FE : RAMONA INDIAN SCHOOL. Education is backward, but a strong and rising pop ular sentiment has insured a vigorous enforcement of the laws, and a careful expenditure of the school-taxes. Of the schools, 150 are English and 120 Spanish. The Catholic colleges at Mora, Las Vegas, Taos and Santa Fe have 600 students ; and the Congregational (New West) academies at Albuquerque, Deming, Santa Fe and Las Vegas have 400. Santa-Fe Academy is Pres byterian ; and Tiptonville Institute and Albuquerque College are Methodist. The Ramona Indian School (for Apaches) at Santa Fe is aided by the United-States Government. The building was designed by Stanford White, and is a memorial of Helen Hunt Jackson. The Catholic Church has a score of schools, the Presbyterians have 25, and others pertain to the Methodists. St. -Joseph's Catholic School, with 60 Pueblo children, is partly supported by the Government, which also has industrial schools for Indians at Santa Fe and Albuquerque. It is natural that in this venerable Spanish province the Catholic Church has a predom inant power, with handsome churches, profitable ranches and fruit-estates, and many hos pitals and schools, conducted by Sisters of Charity, Sisters of Loretto, Christian Brothers, and Jesuits. The ruins of the churches of San Diego and San Joseph are still visible near Jemez, after 280 years ; and the walls of the great stone churches, of Abo, Cuaray and Ta- bira, built before 1640, tower over the salt lagoons of Manzano. The austere secret fraternity of the Penitentes still amazes Eastern tourists with the periodical self-mortifications of its adherents, and defies the attempts of the Catholic Church to exterminate it. Archbishop Lamy has nobly elevated the morals and education of the clergy from the time of his entry. There are active presses at Santa Fe, Las Vegas and Albuquerque, printing many devo tional and other books, in the Spanish language. El Crepiisculo ( ' ' The Dawn "), published at Taos in 1835, was the only newspaper in New Mexico before the American conquest. The Population includes 100,000 Mexicans, with a highly educated and progressive aristocracy and a poorer class rising slowly in comfort and ability. The recent enormous increase in the value of their farm-products has enabled these people to improve their homes, clothing and stock. They are contented and unambitious, but generous, hospitable and agreeable. The semi-civilized Pueblo race has for several centuries occupied the fertile valleys of the northwest, with their communal houses of stone and adobe. They were once a numerous people, with villages also in Arizona and Chihuahua, Colorado and Utah ; but a series of droughts and pestilences, and wars with the Apaches and the Spaniards, reduced them to a shadow of their former greatness. The Pueblos still occupy the oldest towns in America, and are a gentle, honest and industrious race of farmers. The native pottery, cot ton and woolen clothing and blankets and other primitive manufactures are ingenious and interesting.' The 8,000 Pueblos dwell in 19 villages, owning 906,000 acres of land by an absolute title, with- many thousand horses, cattle and sheep and productive farms. Of late years, since American law pacified the country, many of them have abandoned their fortress-villages, and dwell on their farms, wearing modern clothing, using the latest agri cultural tools, and educating their children in the schools. They have also built roads, bridges and canals. One in 1 5 of them can speak a little English, but nearly all are familiar with Spanish. The Pueblo villages at the time of the Spanish occupation were single huge buildings of adobe or stone, perched on high and defensive ground, sometimes surrounding hollow squares, and composed of a great num ber of rooms, with larger council-halls. The lower stories had no doors nor windows, and the upper stories were visited only by ladders. Each village is ruled by an elective ^^i.^rStWyyaiTrr SANTA FE ; THE CATHEDRAL. 574 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. governor and three other officers. The 25,000 Navajoes own 8,000,000 acres, but do very little farming, preferring to earn money by selling horses and wool. They are famous for the fine blankets which they weave, and for the skill of their silver-smiths. Their wonder ful Fire Dances form the most interesting of Indian ceremonials. There are two tribes of Apaches here : 800 Jicarillas, near Amargo, in the north ; and 500 Mescaleros. Chief Towns. — Santa Fe occupies a mountain-walled basin, 20 miles from the Rio Grande, and 7,019 feet above the sea, with a delightful climate. One half of the inhabitants are Mexicans, dwelling in low adobe houses, on narrow little streets. The Plaza has shops on three sides, and on the other the ancient Palacio del Gobernador (the seat of government since 1680), a long, low, white adobe building. Part of the old palace is used by the His torical Society of New Mexico ; and in one of the rooms Lew Wallace wrote the famous novel Ben Hur. Las Vegas, with its horse-cars and telephones, foundries and railroads, colleges and churches, is the chief city, and hopes to rival Denver. Albuquerque has two daily papers, street-cars, six churches, railroad machine-shops employing 2,000 men, and a central place in the great Rio-Grande Valley, with a valuable, trade in corn and wine, wool and gold. Socorro is devoted to mining ; Silver City, to smelting and reducing works ; Las Cruces, to fruit-raising and farming ; and Deming, to mining and stock-shipping. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa-Fe Railroad and the Southern Pacific Railroad traverse the entire Territory, from east to west. The Denver, Texas & Fort-Worth line crosses the northeast, and the Denver & Rio-Grande has many miles of track in the north. Irrigation. — At certain seasons the Rio Grande floods down the valley with devastating power, and carries off enough water to have irrigated all summer long its vast water-shed. Plans are being matured for a system of wing-dams, storage-basins and canals, to save and distribute the waters ; and many large and costly irrigating ditches are in operation. The great canals of the Pecos Irrigation & Investment Co., built in 1889-91, distribute the perennial waters of the Pecos River, stored behind Cyclopean stone dams, over 200,000 acres of rich land. The canals are nearly 100 miles long, with laterals at every mile or so, opening into smaller channels. The company has a capital of $1,000,000, and owns no land, confining itself todistributingwater,selling its water- rights at $ 1 o an acre, with a yearly water- rental of $1.25 for each acre. The operating headquar ters is at Eddy, named in honor of Charles E. Eddy, the prime mover in this enterprise. Here in two years has risen a town of 700 people, four churches, several stores, and commodious bank and hotel buildings. Thousands of acres in the valley have lately passed under cultivation, and produce unsurpassed fruits and vines, grains and vegetables. The company's dam across the Pecos is of rock, 1,050 feet long, arid 181 feet wide at the base, and backs up the water for several miles. The enormous head- gates controlling the flow of water are raised or lowered by screws, and the main canal issues with a depth of seven feet and a width of over 45 feet. These invaluable irrigation works will make the Pecos Valley one of the greatest fruit regions and vineyards of the -world ; and the new railroads are opening up vast areas of exceptionally fertile and picturesque lands. GREAT DAM AND CANAL, AND TOWN OF EDDY. PECOS IRRIGATION AND INVESTMENT CO. k PCTRCJS STOYVE5/VNT "To-day, in the sisterhood of States, she is an Empire in all that constitutes a great com monwealth. An industrious, intelligent, and prosperous population of five millions of people live within her borders. In the value of her farms and farm-products, and in her manufacturing industries, she the Union. She sustains over 1,000 has $80,000,000 invested is the first State newspapers and periodicals, in church property, and spends $12,000,000 a year upon popular education. Upward of 300 academies and colleges fit her youth for special professions, and furnish opportuni ties for liberal learning and the highest culture; and stately edifices all over the State, dedicated to humane and benevo lent objects, exhibit the permanence and extent of her or ganized charities. There are $600, 000, 000 in her savings- banks; $300,000,000 in her insurance companies, and $700,000,000 in the capital and loans of her State and National Banks. Six thousand miles of railroads, costing $600,000,000, have penetrated and developed every acces sible corner of the State, and maintain against all rivalry and competition her commercial prestige. " — Hon. Chaun- cey M. Depew. Before the advent of the Europeans, the territory from the Catskills to Lake Erie, including also part of northern Pennsylvania, belonged to the powerful Iroquois Confeder acy, the Mohawks, resting along the Hudson ; the Oneidas ; the Onondagas, with the national capital, near the site of Syracuse ; the Cayugas ; and the Senecas, guarding the western frontier. These were the Five Nations of the ancient explorers, which afterwards became the Six Na tions, by the addition of the Tuscarora tribe, from North Carolina. Each of the tribes had several hereditary sachems (the national council, including 50 sachems), and retained the rights of self-government, the federal union being mainly for military protection and con- STATISTICS. Settled at . . New York City. Settled in ... . . . 1623 Founded by ... . Dutchmen. One of the Original 13 States, Population in i860, In 1870, In 1880, White, . Colored, . . . American-born , Foreign-born, . Males,Females, ¦ 3,880,735 • 4,382,759 . 5,082,871 . 5,016,022 66,849 ¦ 3,871,492 • 1,211,379 . 2,505,322 . 2,577,549 In 1890 (U. S. Census), . 5,997,853 Population to the square mile, 106^7 Voting Population, . . . 1,408,751 Vote for Harrison (1888), 648,909 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 635,835 Net State Debt, Real Property, . Personal Property, Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives Militia (Disciplined), . Counties, . . Post-offices, . . Railroads (miles), . Vessels, Tonnage 1,136,154 Manufactures (yearly), 81,080,638,696 Operatives 531,473 Yearly Wages, . . £198,634,029 Farm Land (in acres), . 23,780,754 Farm-Land Values, 81.056,176,741 Farm Products (yearly) §178,025,695 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 637,487 Newspapers, 1,778 Latitude, . 40°2g'4o" to 45°o'42" N. Longitude, 7i°5i/ to 79"45'54" W. Temperature, . . . — 23° to ioo° Mean Temperature (Albany), 48° None. 83,025,000,000 8336,000,000 49,170 34 14,057 60 3,438 7,6805,258 TEN CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS (CENSUS OF 1890). NewYork, 1,515,301 Brooklyn, 806,343 Buffalo 255,064 Rochester, . . . 133,896 Albany, . . . . (34,923 Syracuse, . 88,143 Troy, . . 69,956 Binghamton, . . . . 35,005 Yonkers, . . 32,033 30,506 Long Island City, TAPPAN : HOUSE WHERE MAJOR ANDRE WAS TRIED, 576 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. quest. Collectively, they called themselves "The»People of the Long House, " whose eastern door was at the mouth of the Mohawk, and its western door at the Falls of Ni agara. They also spoke of themselves as Ongwe-Honwe, "Men surpassing all others"; and deduced their origin from the serpent-haired god, Atotarho, and their con federate power from Hiawatha, an Onondaga demi-god. Many other celestial traditions were woven about their early history. The Iroquois built frame cabins and strong defensive works ; tilled broad fields ; made stone axes and knives ; tanned leather ; baked pottery ; wore moccasins of deer-skin and shoes of elk- hide ; and made ropes and baskets of bark, domestic implements of carved wood, armor of leather, money of sea-shells, and smoking-pipes of stone. Although they numbered but 12,000 souls, with 2,400 warriors (1,200 of whom were Senecas), .their land was the Empire State of America, then, as now, for their indomitable war-parties swept victoriously alike through New England and Canada, Pennsylvania and the Ohio Valley, and from Nova Scotia to the mouth of the Mississippi. If the Europeans had not dis covered America for another century, the Five Nations might have per manently subjugated all the Eastern tribes. The Iroquois had a well-defined religion, with the Great Spirit as its head ; and believed in immortality in the happy hunting-grounds. They respected woman ; honored matrimony and the family ; cherished chil dren and aged people ; and practiced a chivalric hospitality. They were natural orators and diplomatists ; and in time this wonderful confederacy became the shield of English civilization in America, defending it with Roman courage against the French and their Indian allies. Queen Anne received five of their sachems at Lon don, in 1710, with high honor; and Virginia, Pennsylvania, Con necticut, Massachusetts, and New York made treaties with the great council, securing gradually, by purchase and cession, emi nent domain over all their territory. Dwelling now upon their reservations they number almost as many as in the glorious days Saratoga battle monument. of their sovereignty, and are increasing. Most of the Mohawks and Tuscaroras and a few Oneidas dwell in Canada ; and 1, 700 Oneidas are at Green Bay, Wisconsin. The 5, 304 Indi ans now on reservations in New York include 2, 700 Senecas, 540 Onondagas, 400 Tusca roras, 200 Cayugas, and 300 Oneidas, besides 1, 100 of the St. -Regis tribe, and 100 others. Long Island was occupied by 13 small tribes of Indians — the Montauks, Jamekos, Matinecocks, Shinnecocks, and others — of whom a few score still remain, on the eastern point. There were other inde pendent tribes on Manhattan and along the lower Hudson. The discoverer of the sea-coast of New York was Henry Hudson, an English captain, in the service of the Dutch East-India Company, who sailed from the Texel, in the 90-ton vessel, Half Moon, in the year 1609. He explored various points, from Greenland to the Caro linas, and then sailed into the noble harbor of Manhattan. After as cending the Hudson to Albany, in the hope that it was the long-sought Northwest Passage, the intrepid discoverer returned to Manhattan, and thence to England. He met with a kindly welcome from most of the Indians whom he visited at several points on the river. Various Amsterdam merchants sent out the Forticne and Tiger, in 1612, to T , 0F trade with the Manhattan natives for furs, and made great profits. But admiral farragut. in 1613 the Tiger was burnt, while preparing to sail back to Holland, schuylerville : THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 577 tarrytown : old dutch church in sleepy hollow. and her crew, under Adriaen Block, passed the winter at Man hattan, in log huts, and built another vessel, the Onrust, with which they explored the New-England coast, and then fared homeward to the Low Countries. Other knights-errant of commerce erected fortified trading-posts at Manhattan and Fort Nassau (Albany), in 1614; and in the same year the States General of Holland issued a charter to a company of Amster dam and Hoorn merchants, covering the region between Virginia and New France, and naming it New Netherland. The colonists met the Iroquois chiefs at Tawasentha, and made a treaty of amity, which endured for over 100 years. The Dutch West-India Company was organized in 1623, with vast powers and prerogatives, and forthwith sent out the ship New Netherland, with no Walloon colonists, who reached Manhattan in May, 1623. The English laid claim to this region, because the discoverer was an Englishman, but their demands were placidly ignored ; and then France also sent over a ship to take possession, but the artillery of the Dutch ves sel Mackerel drove her out to sea. The Walloons scattered in groups over the country, some at Breuckelen (Brookland, now Brooklyn), others at Kingston, Albany, and Hartford, and on the Delaware. After the annual directorships of May and Verhulst, Peter Minuit came over on the Sea Mew, and became the first governor, purchasing Manhattan Island from the natives for $24, and erecting New Netherland into a province of Holland. Then followed the fortification of the town, and the wars with the neighboring Indians. The order of patroons came into being in 1629, and imposed on the Hudson Valley a line of feudal chieftains, Van Rensselaer, Pauw, De Vries, Godyn, and other Dutch gentle men. The Swedes menaced the colony on the south, and the Puritans on the east, and the Indians, enraged at repeated deadly forays by the Dutch troops, swept the outer settlements into ruin. Then came over as governor, the gallant soldier, Peter Stuyvesant, with his silver-mounted wooden leg ; and inaugurated a wise, honest and despotic rule, visiting also the New-Englanders and Swedes, and conciliating the Indians. He named the capital of his colony New Amsterdam, and defended it" by a palisade along Wall Street. In 1664 a British fleet and army took possession of the town (then numbering 1,500 inhabitants). Nine years later, a Dutch fleet of 23 vessels recaptured it, but it was restored to England a few months later ; and Sir Edmond Andros ruled the conquered province with vigor for nine years. Meanwhile, the French, under Frontenac and the Marquis de Denonville, Viceroy of Canada, were campaigning against the Five Nations, and fought many a hard battle in interior New York. At last, in the dead of the winter of 1690, 200 Frenchmen and Canadian Indians attacked the Dutch village of Schenectady, and massacred 63 persons. New York and New England and the Iroquois assailed Canada by land and water, but were repulsed by the valiant Frontenac, who dealt heavy return blows in the Mohawk Valley, and at Onondaga Lake. These bor der-wars lasted for many years. Some of the most tragic events of the last French War (1754-60), occurred on the New- York frontier, where the French occupied Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake George ; Fort Frontenac (Kingston), on the St. Law rence ; and Niagara ; while the English held Fort Ed ward, on the upper Hudson, and Oswego. In 1755, Sir William Johnson crushed Baron Dieskau's army, near Lake George ; but a year later France destroyed Oswego ; and in 1757, her troops captured Fort William Henry (on Lake George), whose garrison was massacred SUNNYSIDE, THE HOME OF WASH INGTON IRVING. LAKE GEORGE. S78 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. by the Indians. The next year saw Col. Brad- street's reduction of Fort Frontenac ; but Lord Abercrombie and his magnificent army of 15,000 men suffered defeat, in an assault on Fort Ticon deroga. In 1759 the French were forever swept away from the frontiers, Johnson occupying Ni agara, and Lord Amherst's army taking the aban doned fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, whose lonely ruins still overlook the fair blue narrows of Lake Champlain, under the shadows of austere highlands. On the eve of the Revolution the Sons of Liberty in New York made many spirited protests against the royal aggressions, and fought the soldiers on Golden Hill, some weeks before the Boston massacre of 1770. The ATancy, bearing taxed tea from England, put about off Sandy Hook and sailed home again, not venturing to enter the rebel bay. The Provincial Assembly remained loyal to the King, until its final adjournment in 1775. The Sons of Liberty seized the custom-house and arsenal, and forbade vessels leaving the harbor with provisions for the British troops beleaguered in Boston ; and the Green-Mount ain Boys from Vermont captured the royal fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point. Wooster's Connecticut militia marched to Harlem and went into camp, and overawed the Tories of New York. The frigate Asia lay in the stream and bombarded the city with destructive broadsides ; and Gov. Tryon finally fled from the exasperated citizens, and set up his government in the cabin of this noisy war-ship, saying that "The Americans, from politicians, are now becoming soldiers." The New- York Line of the Continental army numbered five regiments. The Six Nations were kept loyal to the Crown, by Sir William Johnson, an Irish knight, to whom the King had granted 100,000 acres in the Mohawk Valley. He married the sister of Brant, the famous Mohawk chief, and lived in rude baronial state at Johnson Hall. After his death, his nephew, Col. Guy Johnson, and his son, Sir John Johnson, entered the British service with 500 Indian warriors. Early in 1776, Gen. Schuyler marched up the Mohawk Valley with 3,000 militia, and disarmed Johnson's 300 Scottish retainers, and took away their artillery, to avert danger from the frontiers. Gen. Montgomery advanced down Lake Champlain with 1,000 Americans, and reduced St. Johns and Montreal, but suffered defeat and death before the frowning walls of Quebec. Early in 1 7 76 Gen. Charles Lee occupied New York with an American force. Washington led his army of 18,000 men from reclaimed Boston' to defend New York ; and on the 9th of July the Declaration of Independence was ""•<*»»» read aloud by an aide, in his presence, to a brigade of the Continental army, drawn up in hollow square on the site of the City Hall. The same day the citizens pulled down the equestrian statue of George III., erected on Bowling Green in 1770, and it was made into bullets, so that the royal forces for a time "had melted majesty hurled at them." But by August Gens. Clinton and Howe reached Sandy Hook, with 30,000 British and German troops; occupied Staten Island in force ; and sent frigates up the Hudson. Landing on Long Island with 20,000 men, they crushed the 9,000 Americans under Putnam, holding the fortified lines back of Brooklyn, after a long and bloody battle. The 14th Massachusetts (Marblehead) Regiment saved the army by ferrying it across the East River during the following night ; and Washington FORT TICONDEROGA. SITE OF THE COVERED WAY WHERE ETHAN ALLEN ENTERED. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 579 HUDSON HIGHLANDS : NORTHERN ENTRANCE. fortified Harlem Heights, and beat off the enemy, until their flanking tactics compelled him to fall back into Westchester (where he fought a battle at White Plains), and afterwards into New Jersey. Soon afterwards, Fort Washington, near Harlem River, was stormed and cap tured by the British, with its garrison of 2,000 men. It had been held by the order of Congress, and against Wash ington's command to evacuate. Thenceforward for seven years the hostile army retained possession of the city, closely observed by American forces on the Hudson. In the summer of 1777 Sir John Burgoyne led an army of 9,000 Britons and Germans southward from Canada, to sever New England from the other colonies by winning and keeping the line of the Hudson. Fort Ticonderoga fell before his advance ; but the brave Gen. Schuyler, with 4, 500 Americans, retarded the grand triumphal march at every strategic point. Burgoyne formed an intrenched camp near Saratoga, and was beleaguered by Gen. Gates and 10,000 New-York and New-England troops, who won two decisive victories over the invaders, and then compelled them to surrender, 3,387 Britons, 2,412 Germans, six members of Parliament, and several nobles, with 42 guns, and a great quantity of military stores. The British loss in the campaign exceeded 10,000 men. The army remained in captivity until the end of the war, first in Massachusetts, and then in Virginia. Meantime, Sir Henry Clinton, advancing north ward from New York to meet Bur goyne, stormed the forts at the High lands, and near West Point, and burned Kingston. In 1779, he moved It "^lf\| Jp^^j^^^^W^jH^' UP ^e r^ver again. with Admiral Sir ||gf^^^MlC^^^^^^p^^P^^W^- ' George Collier's fleet, and fortified Stony Point, which was carried by storm soon afterward by Anthony Wayne, who assured Washington : "I'll storm hell if you'll plan it." As a corollary to Burgoyne's march, Col. St. Leger and the Royal Greens, and swarms of Indians, besieged Fort Stanwix (now Rome), and ambuscaded Herkimer's 800 Dutch militia, at Oriskany. The siege was raised by Benedict Arnold and 800 Massachusetts troops, who drove the enemy back to Lake Ontario in a disgraceful rout. The Mohawks and Tories filled the Schoharie Valley and the Otsego country with devastation and rapine, and perpetrated horrible massacres at Cherry Valley and the Valley of Wyoming, and the Minisink. Finally, Gens. Sullivan and Clinton led 5,000 Continentals into the Indian domain, and swept the Seneea-Lake country and the Genesee Valley with sword and torch. The enemy retaliated by destroying Canajoharie, Fort Plain, Caughnawaga, Stone Arabia, and Ballston, and laid waste broad areas of the Mohawk Valley, with pitiless fury. As the great war drew to a close, 10,000 Continentals lay in camp at Newburgh, where Washington nobly spurned a proposal to make him King of America. The army was disbanded in June, 1783. November 25th, Sir Henry Clin ton evacuated New York, and Washington occupied the city with his victorious troops. Massachusetts and Connecticut laid claim to the greater part of Western New York, by virtue of their original royal charters, which granted them jurisdiction' westward to the Pacific Ocean. The Connecticut claim was summarily rejected ; but by the Hartford Conven- catskill mts. COLD SPRING, ON THE HUDSON RIVER. CATSKILL-MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 58o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. BULWAGGA BAY : CHAMPLAIN. tion of 1786, New York received from Massachusetts the "government, sovereignty and jurisdiction" over 6,000,000 acres, and gave to Massachusetts and her grantees the right of pre-emption therein, and ' ' all other estate, right, title and prop erty." The Tuscaroras, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and Senecas sold or ceded nearly all their domains between 1785 and 1797. After 1788, the vast wilderness of central and western New York was rapidly settled by New-Englanders. The land-office sold 5,542,173 acres for $1,030,433. At this time New York had fewer inhabitants than Virginia, Massa chusetts, Pennsylvania, or North Carolina ; and it was not until 1820 that it passed Virginia in population. The Con tinental Congress established the capital of the Republic at New York, 1 784-90 ; and there, in 1 789, President Washington was inaugurated, on the balcony of Federal Hall, in the presence of Adams, Knox, Jay, Livingston, and thousands of citizens. During the next half century the statesmen and lawyers of New York, conspicuous in ability and ripe in attainments, had a great share in forming the future of the Republic. Although the New-York delegates in Congress did not vote for the declaration of war in 1812, much of the brunt of that two years of fighting fell on the Empire State. Sackett's Harbor and Ogdensburg repulsed the invaders, but Buffalo was burned by the Royal Scots, all but four houses. The New- York militia suffered defeat at Queenston, with a loss of 1, 100 men; but 1,700 Americans captured York (Toronto), after a hot bombard ment ; and another force stormed Fort George, on the Niagara River. Some of the heaviest fighting of the war occurred on the Niagara frontier, in the summer of 1813, when Gens. Scott and Ripley captured Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo, and soon afterward defeated Riall at Chippewa, and won a des perate battle at Lundy's Lane, over 800 men being lost on either side. Fort Erie repulsed several assaults by the British, and was then blown up by the gar rison, and Izard's American army went into winter quarters at Buffalo and Batavia. Plattsburg was attacked in September, 1814, by Sir George Prevost and 14,000 soldiers, mostly veterans of Wellington's army, who for two hours en deavored to storm the town, occupied by Macomb's 3,000 United-States regulars and an equal number of New-York and Vermont militia under Gen. Mooers. The invaders were driven back to Canada, with a loss of 2, 500 men and nearly all their stores. At the same time Commodore Downie's fleet attacked MacDonough's American squadron, on Lake Champlain, off Plattsburg, and was forced to surrender, after a spirited naval battle, in which 30 vessels were engaged. Early in 1813 Sir James Yeo, with a British fleet and 3,000 men, captured Oswego and destroyed the fort. The mastery of Lake Ontario was disputed with him by Commodore Chauncey, until Yeo launched a 100-gun man-of-war at Kingston. After the completion of the Erie Canal, the great cities of the Northern Tier sprang into being with marvellous rapidity. Buffalo, destroyed by the British in 1813, had over 12,000 inhabitants in 1 830; and Rochester arose from a homeless wild erness in l8ioto 11,000 inhabitants in 1830. In 1826 Wm. Morgan disappeared; and Thurlow Weed founded the A nti-Masonic newspaper. New York was the first State to abolish imprisonment for debt, in 183 1. In 1832 the Whig party was new york : the belvedere, central park. founded by James Watson Webb. NEW YORK : THE TOMBS. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 5«l Other insurgents kept During the Canadian Rebellion of 1837, 700 New- York volunteers occupied Navy Island, in the Niagara River, with 20 cannon ; and armed Canadian RoyalisLs seized their steamboat, the Caroline, and sent her in flames over Niagara Falls. up a predatory warfare among the Thousand Islands, until President Van Buren and Gov. Marcy issued proclamations 'L. against the rebels, and Gen. Scott was ordered to northern New York to enforce neutrality. In 1839 thousands of farmers formed them selves into anti-rent associations, to break up the onerous remnants of the feudal patroon system, and these secret bands perpetrated so many illegal acts, that Gov. Silas Wright de clared Delaware County to be in a state of insurrection. 220 REGIMENT ARMORY. The militia and sheriffs' posses suffered check for a time by the rival NEW YORK : NEW YORK : 8TH REGIMENT ARMORY. levies, and several persons were slain. After these disturbing forces had been put down, the land tenures were simplified by law, and the tenantry secured their rights. The large estates have been replaced by a multitude of small proprietors, and the farms now average less than 100 acres each. Although New York was bound to the South by closer commercial and social ties than any other Northern State enjoyed, the Republican party, led by Seward, Weed, and Greeley, attained great power within its borders. When the Secession War broke out, New York raised 30,000 men at the earliest call, sending at first ten splendid regiments of militia to meet the imminent danger. The United-States Sanitary Commission came into being in New- York City in 1861, largely by the efforts of Dr. Bellows, Valentine Mott, and Frederick Law Olmsted, and received and wisely distributed to the National armies supplies to the value of JS20, 000, 000. In the same great city arose the United- States Christian Commission, under the efforts of Vincent Collyer and George H. Stuart, and dis tributed to the armies food, stores, delicacies and clothing to the amount of $6,000,000. The Union Defence Committee of New York, by its large contributions and energetic measures, also aided greatly the work of reunion. By the close of 1862 the State had sent into the tented field 219,000 soldiers, and had given or loaned to the Government $300,000,000. But in July, 1863, the city of New York was seized by vast mobs (largely of aliens), who plundered and burnt extensive districts, and murdered many soldiers and negroes. The valor of the police and citizens availed little against this colossal riot, and the National Government was compelled to send 44 regiments and batteries against the insurgents. One thou sand persons were killed and wounded during this amazing outbreak, and millions of dollars' worth of property was destroyed. During the war, New York furnished 490,000 soldiers, of whom 116,382 went from the metropolis alone. She paid out $87,000,000 for bounties; and individual gifts and benefactions reached vast sums. Weakened by such terrible drains of men, the State showed a loss of 49,000 inhabitants between i860 and 1865. Her levies for the National armies included 194 regiments of infantry, 26 of cavalry, 1 7 of artillery, ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS : THE GIANT OF THE VALLEY. 582 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. and 35 batteries, besides engineers, sharp-shooters, a rocket battalion, and the militia. During the war New York furnished 20 major-generals (and 65 by brevet), and 97 brigadiers (and 220 by brevet). One hundred and fifteen New-Yorkers received the United-States medal of honor for bravery. June I, 1866, 1,200 Fenians crossed the Ni agara River, seized Fort Erie, and advanced into Canada, where they fought a stubborn battle with the Toronto militia, at Ridgeway. The Irish in vaders held the field, but retired during the night, and returned to the American shore. Among the historic edifices still standing are Johnson Hall, built at Johnstown by Sir William Johnson, in 1763 ; the manor-houses of the Van Rensselaers, Schuylers, Phillipses, Beekmans, Van Cortlandts, De Peysters, Livingstons, Morrises, Jays, and other great families ; the Senate House, at Kingston, recently restored with pious care ; the Billopp House, on Staten Island; Washington's headquarters (1782-3), at Newburgh, built in 1750, and now sacredly preserved; the old Dutch church of Sleepy Hollow, built by Vedryck Flypsen in 1699; the Dutch and English . churches at Fishkill; the shattered walls and barracks of Fort Ticonderoga ; the fortress of Crown Point, built by the British Government about 1759, at a cost of over $10,000,000, and still fairly preserved ; the ancient churches and ruined defenses of the Mohawk Valley ; and many other venerable houses in the Hudson Valley and on Long Island. Im posing monuments have been erected on the battle-fields of Sara toga, Oriskany, and Cherry Valley, and elsewhere. The name of New York is derived from the circumstance that in 1664 King Charles II. of England granted the territory "from the west side of the Connecticut River to the east side of Delaware Bay," to his brother, the Duke of York (afterwards King James II. ) ; and when the Duke's naval expedition captured New Amsterdam, that town was named in his honor, New York. The same name was applied to the Province. "By a strange caprice of history, the greatest State in the Union bears the name of the last and the most tyrannical of the Stuarts." The popular name of The Empire State indicates the com manding position of New York among the American commonwealths. The Arms of New York are as follows : A broad shield, on which is pictured a placid stream, the Hudson, with vessels approaching each other, and in the background the Highlands, over which the resplendent sun is rising. The crest is an heraldic eagle, perched on a globe, showing jarts of America and Europe On one side of the shield stands the robed figure of Liberty, with a shield in one hand, and in the other an upright staff surmounted by a liberty cap, and with her foot on an overturned crown. On the other side stands the robed figure of Justice, blindfolded and vigilant, with an even balance in one hand and an upward-pointing sword in the other. The motto is Excelsior. This seal was devised in 1778 by Lewis Morris, John Jay, and John Sloss Hobart, and has appeared on the blue regimental flags of the New- York troops ever since. The Governors of New York have been : Adirondack mountains: blue-mountain lake. Dutch : Cornelius JacobsenMay, 1624; William KAUTERSKILL FALLS. '"' ' 1 ' " 'r1' ; ¦¦ :¦;¦¦¦¦¦¦¦ TO' '¦ ''^-^•^tfiSftiSff"^ '."X. .-jiJtililBfaiLftv - EJBiil!^4^ J§n^"&'*«J3^ 7Y/Zi STATE OF NEW YORK. 5g3 Verhulst, 1625 ; Peter Minuit, 1626-33 ; Wouter Van Twiller, 1633-8; William Kieft, 1638-47; Peter Stuyvesant, 1647-64. British: Richard Nicolls, 1664-8; Francis Lovelace, 1668-74; Sir Edmond Andros, 1674-82 ; Thomas Don- gan, 1682-7; Francis Nicholson, 1687-90; Jacob Leisler, 1690-1 ; Henry Sloughter, 1691 ; Joseph Dudley, 1692. 30 Provincial governors ruled between 1692 and 1777. State: George Clin ton, 1777-95; John Jay, 1795-1801; George Clinton, 1801-4; Morgan Lewis, 1804-7; Daniel D. Tompkins, 1807-16; John Tay lor (acting), 1816-17; De Witt Clinton, 1817-23; Joseph C.Yates, 1823-5; De Witt Clinton, 1825-8; Nathaniel Pitcher, 1828-9; Martin Van Buren, 1829; Enos T. Throop (acting), 1829-31; Enos T. Throop, 1831-3; William L. Marcy, 1S33-9; William H. Seward, 1839-43; William C. Bouck, 1843-5; Silas Wright, 1845-7; Jolln Young, 1847-9; Hamilton Fish, 1849-51 ; Washington Hunt, 185 1-3; Horatio Seymour, l853"5; Myron H. Clark, 1855-7; John A. King, 1857-9; Edwin D. Morgan, 1859-63; Horatio Seymour, 1863-5; Reuben E. Fenton, 1865-9; John T. Hoffman, 1869-73; John Adams Dix, 1873-5 '> Samuel Jones Tilden, 1875-7 5 Lucius Robinson, 1877-80 ; Alonzo B. Cornell, 1880-3; Grover Cleve THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, NEAR ALEXANDRIA BAY. OTSEGO LAKE. land, 1883-5 ; David Bennett Hill (acting 1885 ; and David Bennett Hill, 1885-92. Descriptive. — New York is nearly as large as England, and a little larger than Louisiana, and includes ^L. of the American land. It is the 19th State in size, being smaller than Alabama, Colo rado, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, and others. Some imaginative writers fancy that they can see a triangular outline to the State. It is 326^ miles east and west, and 300 miles north and south, excluding the islands. Forty- seven thousand six hundred and twenty square miles of its area is land, and 1,550 in Lakes Ontario and Erie. The land rises gradually from the Great Lakes, and attains mountainous altitudes all along the eastern and southern borders, affording many episodes of beautiful scenery. Foremost among these highlands come the Adirondacks, a cluster of wilderness peaks, toward Lake Champlain, surrounded by the far-outspread North Woods, and diver sified with many a bright lake and silvery river. A troop of broad and irregular hills enters from Pennsylvania, broken by deep ravines, and by the rich Mohawk Valley, and then rising to the great Adirondack group of mountains, wild and rugged, and formed of igneous rocks, rich in mineral de posits. Among the most interesting scenes here are the Hunter's Pass, Indian Pass, Wilmington Notch, Keene Val ley, and the wild Ausable Ponds, under Mf. Marcy. Farther north are the wonderful gorges of the Au-Sable and Chat- eaugay Chasms. The loftiest peaks in the Adirondack wilderness are : Mt. Marcy, 5,344 feet; Mt. Mclntyre, 5,113; Clinton, 4,937; Haystack, 4,918; Dix Peak, 4,916; Basin Moun tain, 4,905; Gray Peak, 4,902; Skylight, 4,890; White- face, 4,871 ; Colden, 4,753; Gothic Mountain, 4,744; Red- field, 4,688 ; Santanoni, 4,644 ; and the Giant of the Valley, genesee river :%g^Ss*/ ^..~'%"i\ 4, 53°- Among the other ranges in this lofty wilderness P TniTbridge.1^ **¦•• *\ *** are the Palmertown Mountains, running east of Lake George, 584 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LAKE LUZERNE. £>* from Greenfield to Mt. Defiance, opposite Fort Ticon deroga ; the Kayaderosseras Mountains, 60 by seven miles, between Schroon Lake and Lake George, and end ing at Bulwagga Bay, on Lake Champlain, with Mt. Pharaoh as the chief peak ; the Bouquet Range, border ing Bouquet-River Valley, and culminating in Dix Peak ; the Clinton Range, including the chief Adiron dack summits, and ending at Trembleau Point, on Lake Champlain ; the Au- Sable Range, 160 miles long, ending on the north near Peru ; the Chateaugay Range, mainly in Hamilton and Franklin Counties, and melting away into the lowlands of Canada ; the St. -Lawrence Range, bordering the great northern val ley ; and other semi-detached groups. The Catskill Mountains cover 500 square miles, between the Hudson and the Susquehanna, with steep and rocky acclivities, and crests of old red sandstone and con glomerate. Among the chief peaks are Slide Mountain, 4,220 feet; Hunter Mountain, 4,052; Black Dome, 4,004; Mt. Cornell, 3,920; Peekamoose, 3,875; Plateau Mountain, 3,855 ; and Wittenberg, 3,824. This range was called Onti-ora, or Mountains of the Sky, by the Indians, and the Katzbergs, by the Dutch, for the many catamounts therein dwelling. Amid ^"* - their beautiful glens Irving laid the scenes of his Rip Van Winkle legend, and Thomas Cole painted many of his famous pictures. Three dependent ranges diverge from the Catskills : the Helderbergs, running northward, parallel with the Hudson ; the Shawangunk Mountains, a high and commanding ridge, running southwest from the Hudson near Esopus, to the Dela ware, at Port Jervis, and from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high ; and the Delaware Mountains, uniting the Catskills to the Pennsylvanian Alleghanies. Howe's Cave is in the Helderberg Mountains, and runs for three miles underground, with many weird halls and passages, flowing streams and dark pools, and myriads of stalactites and stalagmites. The Blue Ridge reaches the Hudson under the name of the Highlands, about 1,700 feet high; and after giving passage to the river between its mighty bulwarks, it is extended into the Taconics of Massachusetts. The outlines of this range are rugged and precipitous, of primary rock, with thin and valueless soil. The New-York coast-line of Lake Ontario extends for a distance of 200 miles, and that of Lake Erie, for 75 miles ; and the two are joined by the Niagara River. Lake Champlain flows along the east ern frontier for 134 miles, and receives the waters of Lake George, one of the loveliest sheets of water in the world. This "Como of America, " stretches its deep and crystalline tides for 36 miles among the frowning Kayaderosseras and Luzerne Mountains, with hundreds of islands, sequestered coves, mountain shores, and far-projecting points. It was called by the French discoverers, Le Lac du St. Sacrement ; and over a century of border forays and battling armies made its shores historic. Otsego Lake, nine by i| miles, and hallowed by the genius of Cooper, lies between long ranges of green highlands, with Cooperstown at one end and Richfield Springs seven miles from the other end. Near the center of New York a group of long and nar- in the lake of a thousand islands. row lakes occupies ancient valleys blocked by moraines, schroon lake. 585 UPPER AU-SABLE POND. •v:> THE STATE OF NEW YORK. and pointing generally north and south. Most of them empty into Lake Ontario, through the Oswego River. They are navigated by steam boats, and have on their shores many pleasant villages and summer-resorts. Oneida Lake, 19 by six miles, spreads its broad blue shield in a lowland country, rich in dairies and blooded cat tle. Farther southwest is Skaneateles Lake, sixteen miles long, 860 feet above the sea, bordered by high blue hills, and not far from the romantic Otisco Lake (four miles long). Owasco Lake, eleven miles long, is near Auburn. Cayuga Lake, 38 miles long, runs from Ithaca to Cayuga, in a rich farming country. Seneca Lake, 35 by four miles, lies between the beautiful scenery of Watkins Glen and the town of Geneva, the seat of Hobart College. Its deep, clear waters rarely freeze over. Canandaigua Lake (16 miles long) and Keuka Lake (22 miles long) lie in a picturesque hill-country, famous for its great vineyards and wine-cellars. In southwestern New York is Chautauqua Lake, 18 by three miles, and 1,400 feet above the sea, and world-renowned for the popular educational movement bearing its name. The Adiron dack country abounds in beautiful lakes, Placid, Raquette, Blue-Moun tain, Tupper, St. Regis, Saranac, Schroon, Luzerne and many others, famous as summer-resorts. There are 200 lakes in this northern region, Avalanche Lake being 2,900 feet high; Colden Lake, 2,750; Blue- Mountain Lake, 1,800; and Upper Au-Sable Pond, 1,993. Nearer New- York City are Lake Mahopac (seven miles around) and Green wood Lake (ten miles long), each of which has great summer-hotels. Lake Mohonk, high up on the Shawangunks, and Lake Minnewaska are also much visited in summer. The rivers fall naturally into two divisions, those flowing to the Great Lakes, including the short and rapid streams of the western counties : the Genesee, 145 miles long, with its lofty walls and great falls, and a valley rich in wheat ; the Oswego, flowing from the midland lakes ; the iron-tinted rivers that pour down from the Adirondack wilderness, and the torrents that rush into Lake Champlain ; and those flowing south and east, like the limpid and broad-curving Allegany, navigable to Olean ; the Susquehanna, issuing from Otsego Lake ; the Delaware, born in Utsyanthia Lake ; the Mohawk, pouring down its famous valley to the Hudson ; and the majestic Hudson, rising far up in the Adirondacks, 300 miles from and 4,000 feet above the sea. The Hudson is the most interesting of the lesser American rivers, and immense steamboats traverse its 156 miles from New- York City to Albany and Troy daily. Among the points of interest are the Palisades, a basaltic wall, 20 miles long and 1, 500 feet high, running north from Fort Lee, along the Jersey shore ; Tappan Zee, a lake-like widening of the river, ten by three miles, on which lie the ancient towns of Dobbs Ferry and Irvington, Tarrytown and Piermont, Nyack and Sing Sing, in a region made classic by the pen of Washington Irving ; Haverstraw and Peekskill, venerable Dutch towns ; the historic headlands of Stony Point and Verplanck's Point ; the magnifi cent passage of the Highlands, beginning between the Dun- derberg and Anthony's Nose, and extending north to Storm King (1,529 feet high), beyond the world-renowned military school at West Point; Cornwall, the chief summer-resort of L: ; AU-SABLE CHASM I SENTINEL ROCK. AU-SABLE CHASM : RAINBOW FALLS. 5 86 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the Hudson country; the quaint old city of Newburgh, opposite Fishkill, the scene of Cooper's novel, * The Spy ; Poughkeepsie, with its bold heights crowned by famous schools; Rondout and Kingston, abounding in coal ; the grand Catskill Mountains, massed on the west of the valley ; and many another interest ing locality, with hundreds of beautiful coun try-seats of the ancient patrician families, and the modern men of wealth. In the six miles between Dobbs Ferry and Tarrytown are the country-houses of 63 millionaires, whose united fortunes are said to exceed $500,000,000. The magnificent St. -Lawrence River, the outflow of the Great Lakes, which pours into the sea more water than any river in the world, except the Amazon, forms the northern boundary of New York for 100 miles, from Lake Ontario to the Indian village of St. Regis, where it passes into Canada. After leaving Lake Ontario, at Cape Vincent, the river traverses the lovely Lake of a Thousand Islands, 40 miles long and in places seven miles wide, containing 1,800 islets and islands, famous in border history, and for many years one of the leading sum- -mer-resorts of America. Nor may we fail to speak of the Chenango and the Chemung, 75 miles and 40 miles long, tributaries of the Sus quehanna, and the former navigable for 50 miles. Black River flows from the Adirondacks to Lake Ontario, 108 miles, with several falls. The Oswegatchie(l25 miles), Raquette, St.- Regis, Grass and other wilderness streams mingle their waters with the St. -Lawrence. In its 36 miles from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario the Niagara River falls 336 feet, 52 feet being in the rapids above the Falls. At Buffalo it is three quarters of a mile wide, and from 40 to 60 feet deep, with a current of four miles an hour. The marvellous Niagara Falls, one of the wonders of the world, occur at a point where the river is 4, 750 feet wide. The curving Horse-shoe Fall, half of which is within the Canadian boundary, is 154 feet high and 2,000 feet wide; the American Fall is 163 feet high and 1,100 feet wide; and over these huge cliffs 100,000,000 tons of water thunder every hour. The wooded Goat Island, half a mile long, and reached by a bridge from the American shore, separates the two falls, with huge precipices descending sheer from their brink to the river below. On either side, and for two miles above, extend the great rapids, "a battle charge of tempestuous waves." The American Fall is divided by the little Luna Island, and the part between Luna and Goat is sometimes called the Central Fall, between whose blue waters and the cliff behind is the Cave of the Winds, often visited by adventur ous tourists. A steamboat plies on the river just below the Falls, run ning up into their spray. Nearly a league below, beyond the white and terrible Whirlpool Rapids, is the Whirlpool. The New-York State Park at Niagara Falls includes 115 acres, extending for over a mile along the river, by the falls and rapids. It waspurchasedby the State in 1883-5, for $1,433,000, and made attractive POUGHKEEPSIE AND THE BRIDGE. anC* *ree °* aCCCSS. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 587 NIAGARA FALLS : CANTILEVER BRIDGE. VIEW FROM FALLS-VIEW STATION, MICHIGAN CENTRAL R. R. The New York State Commissioners, in the sobriety of an official report, were im pelled to say : "Niagara is not simply the crowning glory of the Empire State, it is the highest distinction of the Nation and of the Continent of America. " Unfortunately, most visitors endeavor to see it in a few hours, and fall a prey to mercenary hacla- men and shop-keepers, and so come away fleeced, and tired and confused. To avoid such mischances, and properly to comprehend this para mount marvel of Nature, the visitor should settle down here for a term of days, and study the scene in calmness and leisure. It was Hawthorne who said that "Days should be spent at Niagara Falls in deep and happy seclusion." The International is the finest and largest hotel at Niagara, a great fire-proof stone structure built around three sides of an extensive lawn, which is adorned with flowers and ancient trees, and leads down to the American Rapids. The house fronts on Prospect Park ; and from its mag nificent colonnades and rooms gives noble views of the rapids and islets, the wooded heights of Goat Island, and the absolute brink and spray of the falls. The appointments of this famous hotel are of the best, and the rates are moderate. Many of the most celebrated peo ple of the world, visiting Niagara, have so journed at the International, and from its pleasant shelter have made their calm and profitable studies of the mighty cataract so near at hand, unfretted by the parasites who sometimes make misery and confusion for the single-day visitor. During the winter, spring, and autumn the only large hotel which is open at Niagara Falls is the Spencer House, whose internal arrangements combine every advantage of quiet, comfort and convenience. It is only two minutes' walk from the shore of the river and the edge of the rapids, and fronts on the Central-Hudson railway station, which is, however, across a very broad avenue. The house is just far enough from the Falls to shield nervous guests from their occasional damp mist, and to deaden the roar of the falling waters. The Spencer has entertained many of the most famous persons of this century — the King of the Sandwich Islands and the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, Booth and Barrett, Modjeska and Parepa-Rosa, Chauncey M. Depew, Wilkie Collins and Charles Dickens. There are many other well-known waterfalls in this picturesque State, like the Genesee NIAGARA FALLS : INTERNATIONAL HOTEL. Falls, at Rochester, where the Genesee River plunges down 226 feet cascades, in a rocky canon ; Glens Falls, where the Hudson descends 50 feet, between black marble cliffs ; the downward rush of the Mo hawk at Cohoes, for 62 feet, between lofty rocky walls ; the beautiful Trenton Falls, 18 miles north of Utica, where West Canada Creek makes five leaps (200 feet), in a romantic lime stone ravine ; the cascades near Ithaca, with Fall Creek descending 438 feet fn a mile, over the Ithaca, Triphammer, Rocky and other falls ; with three powerful NIAGARA FALLS : SPENCER HOUSE. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW YORK : WASHINGTON BRIDGE AND HIGH BRIDGE. the magnificent Taughkannock Falls, ten miles from Ithaca, 210 feet high, narrow, massive, and white, in a great amphitheater of dark cliffs ; the Portage Falls, on the upper Genesee, 328 feet in three cascades, in a profound and impressive gorge ; Kauterskill, and others. •---».-. . Long Island includes three counties, with '.' 800,000 inhabitants, and is 140 miles long, hav ing (according to Walt Whitman) the form of a fish. On the north is Long- Island Sound, " the American Mediterranean," separating it from Connecticut ; and on the south lines of lagoons and sand-bars front the ocean. The long alluvial plains of the island are traversed by several rail ways, leading to Coney Island, Rockaway and other famous beaches, and out to the ancient ports of Sag Harbor and Greenport, near the eastern end. The western end, with Brooklyn and the adjacent communes, forms one side of New- York harbor. Staten Island, southeast of New-York Bay, covers 58.^ square miles, with its picturesque region of hills and plains, and quiet villages. Frequent ferry-boats ply to and from the metropolis. Here Curtis and Winter have dwelt for many years ; and Theodore Winthrop wrote his memorable novels ; and Thoreau, and Parkman, and Lowell, and Mackay, lived and labored. The Sailors' Snug Harbor overlooks the Kill Von Kull. The Climate is a pleasant mean between the rigors of New England and the languors of the South, being tempered by the contiguous sea and lakes. It abounds in sharp and sudden changes, but is healthy and agreeable, and conduces to contentment and long life. The prolonged Adirondack winters and the deep and abiding snows of the lake-country give place in the great metropolis on the coast to milder seasons. New York has 70 varieties of trees, including 15 of oaks ; 54 kinds of ferns; and 1,540 of flowers. The policy of the State had been to get rid of its woodlands at any price. But in 1885 wiser council prevailed, and the Forest Commission began its work ; and foresters, fire-wardens and game protectors now patrol the State's woods. The Forest Preserve includes over 850,000 acres, mainly in Hamilton, Essex, and Franklin Counties, in the Adirondack wilderness. The Catskill Deer-Parks were established jn 1887. The islands of Lake George, Esopus Island, in the Hudson, and other public domains are reserved as natural parks. The elk, moose and caribou have suffered extermination, but the Virginian deer remains, and also bears, lynxes, foxes, and smaller animals in great numbers. Seventeen species of snakes wind their way through the woods and fields. In the hill streams brook- trout dwell ; the lakes contain bass, pickerel, perch and land-locked salmon ; and the rivers shelter German carp and salmon. The Geology of New York is remarkably varied and com prehensive. The Adirondacks are thought by scientists to be the oldest parts of the earth's surface. The ocean beat for centuries along their bases, and left its beaches as memorials. Long afterwards, the Allegheny Mountains were upheaved ; the glaciers planed away vast areas, and dug out the lake-valleys and Long-Island Sound; and amazing changes occurred to the rivers. There are 250 quarries in New York, with a valuable yearly product. They include the roofing slate of Washington, Rensselaer and Columbia ; the granite of the Adirondack NEW YORK AND BROOKLYN : EAST-RIVER BRIDGE. THE STATE OF NE\lr YORK. 589 region ; the sandstone of Potsdam and Medina ; the flag-stones of Kingston, and the Hud son Valley ; the shell-limestone of Lockport; the black marble of Glens Falls; the red marble of Warwick ; the verd-antique of Moriah ; the white marble of Westchester ; the gypsum of Syracuse; and the hydraulic cement of Rondout, Manlius and Akron. The most valuable mineral product is iron ore. Plumbago is found in the Ticonderoga region. The finest talc comes from St. Lawrence County. Petroleum and natural gas abound in the State. Near Syracuse are the great Salt Springs, which have produced 400,000,000 bushels of salt. The mineral springs of New York have been for many years favorite summer-resorts, and are provided with great hotels and pavilions. Foremost stands Saratoga Springs, about 180 miles north of New-York City, with saline, chalybeate, and other medicinal waters, amid pleasant parks, and near the beautiful Saratoga Lake, and Mt. McGregor (where Gen. Grant died). The 17 sulphur springs of Rich field rise amid the rich dairy- lands of Otsego, close to Canada- rago Lake and have latterly be come very fash ionable. Sha ron Springs (iron, sulphur and magne sia) have been called "the Ba den - Baden of America," and flow in a nar row upland valley of Schoharie. Among other resorts of this character are the Acid Springs, six miles south of Medina ; Avon, with saline-sulphurous waters, in the Genesee Valley ; Ballston, near Saratoga, a famous resort 80 years ago ; Chappaqua, in Westchester; Cherry Valley, resembling the sulphur-waters of Teplitz; Chittenango, a group of sulphur-springs, near Cazenovia Lake ; Clifton, near Canandaigua ; Columbia in the Claverack Valley; Crystal, between Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake; Deep:Rock, at Oswe go; Guymard, in the Delaware Valley; Lebanon, an ancient thermal spa, amid the hills of the Massachusetts border ; Massena, a strong sulphur water near the Raquette River, in the far north; Spencer, near the Cayuga Valley ; Vallonia, among the Chenango hills; and Verona, near Rome, and resembling the Harrowgate Springs. The Population of New-York State exceeds that of 22 important nations of the earth, including the Argentine Republic, Bolivia, Canada, Chili, Columbia, Egypt, Peru, Portu gal, Sweden and Norway. It is exceeded by only 14. As late as the year 1750, England had no more inhabitants. New York includes in its variegated population 500,000 Irish men, 375,000 Germans, 150,000 Britons, 85,000 Canadians, 20,000 Frenchmen,- 15,000 each of Italians and Scandinavians, 12,000 Poles and divers Azoreans, Australians, Greeks, Greenlanders, Hindoos, Japanese, Maltese, Mexicans, Russians and Turks, with 57 natives of Gibraltar. Of the entire population, 55,000 were born in Pennsylvania, 45,- 000 in New Jersey, 42,000 in Massachusetts, 38,000 in Connecticut, 31,000 in Ver mont, 11,000 in Ohio, 7,000 each in New Hampshire, Michigan and Maine; 6,000 each in Rhode Island and Illinois ; and 5,000 each in Maryland and Virginia. There are 230,000 THE GENESEE FALLS AND CITY OF ROCHESTER. 59° NEW YORK : RIVERSIDE PARK AND HUDSON RIVER. KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. natives of New York in Michigan, 120,000 in Illinois, 1 00, 000 in Pennsylvania, 94,000 in New Jersey, 87,000 in Wisconsin, 83,000 in Iowa, 64,000 in Ohio, and 37,000 in Massachusetts. The Empire State has been always cosmo politan in its make-up. Livingston was of Scottish origin ; Herkimer, German Palatinate ; John Jay, Huguenot ; Hamilton, West-Indian ; Clinton, Irish ; Schuyler, Dutch ; and Lewis, Welsh. For many years the Welsh towns of Oneida, the Huguenots of Westchester, the Scotch-Irish of Otsego, the Palatines of the Mohawk Valley, the Vermonters and French- Canadians of the northern counties, and the Con necticut and Massachusetts colonies in the center and west, preserved their individual traits. Farming. — The central and eastern parts of New York are among the richest and most delightful farming countries in the world, abounding in comfort and prosperity. Half the population dwells in the cities, but still this is the third American State in agri cultural importance. Although it has fewer farmers than I Alabama, Georgia, Illinois, or Ohio, it is second only to Illinois in the value of its agri- ^ cultural products, whose average yearly yield is $178,000,000. It is the foremost hay-making State, and produces one seventh of the entire Ameri can crop (5,000,000 tons a year, valued at $61,000,000). It leads all its sister States in raising potatoes, with 30,000,000 bushels a year, or one eighth of the Na tion's growth. The rich orchards of its valleys produce one sixth of the fruit of the United States, and nearly double the amount of its nearest competitor (Penn sylvania). One seventh of the butter and one third of the cheese are made here. Among other yearly products of the soil of New York are 36,000,000 bushels of oats, 20,000,000 of corn, 9,000,000 of wheat, 7, 500,000 of barley, 3,000,000 of rye, and 6,500,000 pounds of tobacco. More than half of the hops of America are grown on these arable plains. One third of the American buckwheat comes from her farms, which yield over 300,000 bushels a year. In maple-sugar, lumber, and other THE HUDSON RIVER: MOUNT ST. -VINCENT AND FONT HILL. NEW YORK : THE OBELISK, CENTRAL PARK, forest-products she stand Of the 14 American coun- products exceed $5,000,- sylvania, two in Illinois, eight were in New York, Erie, Jefferson, Monroe, Oneida, Onondaga, Otse go, St. Lawrence and ,-a Steuben. The broom- s-f' corn of the Mohawk Valley, and the pep permint of Lyons are famous. IS ong the foremost States. 2s whose yearly farm- )0 each (three in Penn- ld one in - California), TROY : THE EARL CREMATORY. 591 THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Government. — The governor and lieutenant- governor are elected for three years (since 1879); and on alternate years the people choose their comptrol ler, treasurer, attorney - general, secretary of State, and State engineer and surveyor. The judiciary in cludes the Court of Appeals, with seven judges, and the Supreme Court, of eight districts. The Capitol was begun in 1867, on the noble heights above Albany, and has cost nearly ^20,000, - 000, remaining still in an unfinished condition. It is built of granite, in free Renaissance architecture, and covers nearly four acres, with a central court of 137 by 92 feet. The walls are 108 feet high, and coney island : iron pier. form a landmark for leagues along the populous Hudson Valley. The State library of 125,000 volumes, the 804 flags of the volunteers, and the magnificent court and legislative halls are the Capitol's treasures. The National Guard includes 15 regiments, one battalion and 44 separate com panies of infantry, and five batteries, forming four brigades, with armories and arsenals at Albany, Auburn, Binghamton, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Elmira, Flushing, Hoosick Falls, Kingston, Mount Vernon, Newburgh, New York, Oneonta, Oswego, Rochester, Saratoga, Syracuse, Troy, Utica, Walton, and Watertown. The armories of some of the city regiments, like the 7th and 12th of New- York City, are imposing and extensive structures, adapted for defence. The State spends $500,000 yearly in the maintenance of its disciplined militia. The State Camp of Instruction was established at Peekskill, in 1882, as a military post, where the armory-drilled militia are exercised in the open, in company and battalion drill, skirmish and outpost, picket and ¦ field duty, and minor and grand tactics. The regiments spend several days in camp here every summer, under strict military discipline. Rifle-ranges on Long Island are devoted to practice by the National Guard, with military rifles, and have resulted in great proficiency in marksmanship. A new rifle-range and a parade-ground were established in Van-Cortlandt Park in 1889. Charities and Corrections. — The State Board of Charities has charge of three groups, the State institutions, those of the counties and cities, and those of benevolent societies. Fully 64,000 persons are maintained in these places, at a yearly cost of $13,000,000 — $1,500,000 of which comes from the State, $1,800,000 from the counties, $3,300,000 from the cities, and $1,600,000 from gifts. The property held for these uses exceeds $54,000,000 in appraised value — $36,000,000 belonging to benevolent associations, $11,000,000 to the State, $4,000,000 to the cities, and $3,000,000 to the counties. The State prisons are at Sing Sing, on the Hudson, with 1,400 convicts; Auburn, in central New York, 1,250 convicts ; and Dannemora (750 convicts), 1,700 feet above the sea, near the Adirondack Mountains. The counties, prohibited by law from employing their prisoners at useful labor in their peniten tiaries, send them to the State institutions, crowding the latter to their utmost capacity. For a number of years the prisons had been more than self-sustaining, the labor of the con victs being contracted for at 40 cents a. day. But in 1886 this system was abolished, at the demand of labor agitators, and in 1888 the Legislature forbade the use of machinery, and directed that the output of the prisons should be used only in the State institutions. These CONEY island 592 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. changes resulted in the unhappy idleness of thousands of convicts withdrawn from the shops to their cells, and the prisons receded in their condition and tendency. The Re- prison in the of a^c. The formatory at Elmira was founded in 1876, and is the most interesting world, in its methods of dealing with first-offence criminals under 30 years sentences are indeterminate, and the convicts, divided into three classes, with differing uniforms, receive industrial training and con ditional discharges. They all first enter the second grade, whence six months of good conduct raises them to the first grade, six months more secures release on parole, and a final six months results in absolute freedom. As fast as the prisoners advance in these grades, their privileges increase, and their fare improves. Evil behavior reduces a prisoner to the third grade ; ^sEB^r^g^^" and incorrigible wickedness secures his transfer to i.ew york : seventh regiment armory. the State Prison, to serve out a maximum sentence. Eighty-two per cent, of the men discharged from Elmira become reputable and self-sup porting citizens. The system is being adopted in several other States ; and appears to fur nish one of the most fortunate solutions to a heart-breaking problem of modern society. The State Industrial School at Rochester, and the House of Refuge, on Randall's Island, near New-York City, are now about 40 years old, and hold nearly 2,000 youths. The first- named has become a school of technology, whose inmates are taught carpentering, blacksmithing, painting and other useful avocations. - There are large institutions for the instruction of. deaf mutes at New York, Fordham, Rome, Rochester, Buffalo, and Malone, in, which 1,500 pupils are supported by the State. The Institution for the Blind, founded at Batavia in 1867, has 120 inmates; and there are large establishments for the same class in New-York City. Another group of unfortunates, the confirmed inebriates, are cared for in great stone buildings, in Tudor castellated architecture, on a far- viewing hill north of Binghamton. About 16,000 insane persons are treated in 15 corporate institutions, and in the State Asylums at Utica (700 patients), opened in 1843; Willard (2,000), opened in 1869; Poughkeepsie (700), opened in 1871 ; Buffalo (400), opened in 1880 ; Binghamton (1, 100), opened in 1881, and Ogdensburg (1,200), opened in 1891. At Middletown, is the Homcepathic Asylum for the Insane, with 600 patients. The State Asylum for Idiots (500) was founded at Syracuse, in 185 1 ; and the Custodial Asylum for Feeble- Minded Women (250), at Newark, in 1S85. The Asylum for Insane Criminals (175) is at Auburn. New-York City has 5,000 insane in her municipal asy lums ; and Brooklyn has 2,000. The State Board of Health, formed in 1880, is constantly improving the drainage new york : mount-sinai. hospital. and sewerage and water-supplies of the towns ; watching and checking epidemics ; prosecuting adulterators of food and drugs ; and tabulating vital statistics. NEW YORK : 12TH REGIMENT ARMORY. "Wm> - THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 593 BROOKLYN Education held a high place among the Dutch colonists ; and the English conquerors in 1664 found several good schools. The Board of Regents of the University attend to the incorporating and inspection of colleges and academies, and the government of the State Library and Museum. The Superintendent of Public Instruction supervises the public schools, and apportions normal, Indian, deaf, dumb and blind students to their proper places. The normal schools are at Albany, founded in 1844 ; Brockport, 1867; Buffalo, 1871; Cortland, 1869; Fredonia, 1869; Gcneseo, 1S71 ; New Paltz; Oneonta; Oswego, 1S61 ; and Pots dam, 1S69. They cost about $1,400,000. At these schools upwards of 6,000 pupils arc -£iu^. "!_ ' studying to be teachers. There are more than methodist general hospital. 12,000 school-houses in the State, and Soo,- 000 volumes in the school-district libraries. There are also 280 academies, with 37,000 students; and a great number of private schools, with 125,000 students. But in 1880, in spite of all these opportunities, 166,625 New-Yorkers (4.2 per cent.) could not read; and 219,600 (5.5 per cent.) could not write. The compulsory school-laws are inoperative, and only about a third of the children of school age are in daily attendance (631,000 out of 1,773,000). There are 30 Indian schools, with 1,100 enrolled students, on the seven reservations : Allegany, Oneida, Onondaga, St. Regis, Shinnecock, Tonawanda and Tus'carora. The colleges and professional schools own property valued at $24,000,000. There are 18 colleges for men, and six for women, with 9,000 students; and seven schools of science, 13 of theology, four of law, and 14 of medicine, with 4,000 students. The University of the City of New York, opened in 1S32 by a number of patriotic citizens, has a handsome Gothic building, of marble, dating from 1832-5, on Washing ton Square, with 24 instructors and 130 students, besides 100 in the post-graduate school. The University Medical College, founded in 1842, under Valentine Mott, John William. Draper and others, occupies fine modern buildings near Bellevue Hospital, with 60 instruc tors, 650 students (loo foreigners), and 5,000 graduates. The University Law School came into being in 1858, and has three professors, eight lecturers and 140 students. "Ward$ I$lar|d ^J^5^3r^^ fe ? 4"^ •!=r-"iV~f (Ijlac^well*, l^laqd figgfe3^^ -^f-- p«niti'nii« and Black-Rock Harbor for 517 feet, making a total length of 3,65 1| feet. It is mainly used for railway freight traffic, and unites the New-York Central, West- Shore, Erie, Lackawanna, and Lehigh-Valley lines with the Grand Trunk and Michigan Central routes. The wonderful Cantilever Bridge, near Niagara Falls, is one of the most interesting of American me chanical triumphs. It rests on lofty steel towers rising from the shores of the wild rushing river; and sustains a double-track railway, used by the heaviest trains. Not far away is the famous Sus pension Bridge, built by Roebling in 1852-5. The New Suspension Bridge near Niagara Falls is 200 feet above the rushing river. The Arthur- buffalo : the city hall. NEW YORK : UNION LEAGUE CLUB. ~-TO 6o8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. '{]'h'i ,*225#3&#teri. ,[M *pf rlm^ ''¦l/ji I' ' m mwivBm jm §111 sZl^m^a^^^^b^g^^^ tut dSSSm ^M^fc-^gf;-- ^"^X^^^- ^^^I^t%to ppi — ^S^-r^gir^-" "=^2tf^^5s ^f^In BUFFALO : ELEVATORS AND COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Kill Bridge crosses from New Jersey to Staten Island, and was authorized by Congress, the United-States courts overruling the injunction placed on it by New Jersey. Its drawbridge is the largest in the world (500 feet long). The new Washington Bridge, in New-York City, was built in 1886-90, at a cost of above $3,000,000, and is mainly composed of two arches of Bessemer steel, each of 508 feet, springing from high granite abutments, and carrying a 50-foot roadway of Trinidad as phalt, besides broad sidewalks. The Key stone Bridge Company, of Pittsburgh, built the Arthur-Kill Bridge, and also the Madison-Avenue Bridge, at New York, and the Iron Pier, at Coney Island. The High Bridge is a noble granite structure, 1,450 feet long and 1 14 feet high, carrying the Croton Aqueduct across the deep Harlem Valley, on 14 massive piers. The new dam of the Croton Water- Works, at Quaker Bridge, is the largest in the world. It was constructed in 1S87-91, at a cost of $3,000,000, and is 1,350 feet long and 277 feet high, and 216 feet wide at the bottom. 40,000,000,000 gallons, or the rainfall of 300 square miles, will be impounded by this gigantic rampart. Another interesting work of New-York engineers is the great Croton Aqueduct, over 40 miles long, finished in 1842, at a cost of nearly $30,000,000, Over $60,000,000 has been collected in water-rates. The tunnels, now being cut under the broad Hudson River, from New- York City to the New- Jersey shore were begun in 1873. The Cataract Con struction Company is cutting a large hydraulic tunnel through the rock, from a mile or two above Niagara Falls to the Niagara River below the falls, to utilize the illimitable water-power here running to waste. The Vanderbilts, Belmonts, Brown Bros. & Co.^ and other wealthy New-Yorkers are stockholders ; and it is expected that this development will build up one of the great manufacturing centres of the world, and (by the easy and inex pensive transmission of electrical power generated here) will make Buffalo a huge metrop olis of industrial enterprises of all varieties. Railroads in this State, for passenger-service, were inaugurated by the route from Albany to Schenectady, which began operations in 1831. This road was followed by that BUFFALO AND THE NIAGARA RIVER. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 609 from Schenectady to Utica, in 1836; Auburn to Syracuse, 1838 ; Lockport to Niagara Falls, 1838; Utica to Syracuse, 1839; Auburn to Rochester, 1841 ; Schenectady to Troy, Attica to Buffalo, and the Tonawanda Road, 1842. These lines were consolidated into the New- York Central in 1853, which absorbed also the Hudson-River Railroad, built in 185 1 ; the New- York & Harlem, chartered in 1831 ; and (in 1885) the New- York, West-Shore & Buffalo. The New-York railroads have 4, 000 locomotives, 4, 500 passenger-cars, and 150,000 freight-cars. Their earnings have exceeded $125,000,000 in a year. ."" "-. . The U.-S. Assay Office, adjoining the Sub- Treasury, occupies the building constructed in 1823 for the Branch Bank of the United States, and now the oldest edifice on Wall Street. From $20,000,000 to $100,000,000 in crude bullion are received here every year, to be assayed, refined, separated and cast into bars, which are piled up in the vaults in glittering heaps of yellow gold and white silver. Architecturally and in other respects the Mills Building is a notable structure. D. O. Mills went to California in '49, and afterwards became well known in the banking business in Sacramento, and in the public life of the State and the Nation. He has been known in Wall Street for almost 40 years, and it has been variously estimated that he is worth from $10,000,000 to $20,000,000. The Mills Building was erected in 1881-2. It is ten stories in height, and contains nearly five acres of floor surface, divided into 300 offices. The dimensions of the lot upon which it stands are as follows : on Wall Street, 28 feet II inches ; on Broad Street, 175 feet ; Exchange Place, 150 feet. The arrangement of the open court on Broad Street gives direct light and ventilation to all the offices, leaving no dark corners, such as are found in other mammoth buildings. The basement and first and se< ond stories are of large dimensions, designed for the accon modation of railroad companies and bankers ; and are pn vided with massive burglar-proof safes. On the floors above, the offices are of sizes appropriate for lawyers, real- state agents and the like. The facades are of Belle ville stone and Philadelphia brick, and the enriched panels are either carved in this stone or moulded in red terra-cotta. The absence of pillars to support the floors is a peculiarity of the structure, adding much to the convenience and beauty of apartments in it. NEW YORK : THE PRODUCE EXCHANGE. M*-. IKiiil NEW YORK : THE MILLS BUILDING. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 6x1 The Chemical Bank was founded in New York more than 60 years ago, its originators having been connected with that branch of business which gives it its name. In many respects this is one of the most remark able financial institutions in the world, and the largest and most famous bank in America. Amid the great panics which have from time to time swept over the country, the Chemical Bank has stood firm, without em barrassment or suspension. For this reason, on the resumption of pros perity, great numbers of accounts were transferred to this bank, resulting in an increasing volume of profits. The astonishing appreciation of its conduct and policy is seen in the fact that the Chemical stock based on a par value of $100 (though actually $25) sells for $4,600 a share. The directorate includes some of the foremost men in New-York City. The Chemical National Bank has a capital of $300,000, with a surplus fund of $6,000,000, undivided profits of nearly $300,000, and resources amount ing to $35,000,000, including over $7,000,000 in specie. The buildings are modest and unobtrusive, although commodious structures, extending from Broadway around to Chambers Street, and fully indicate the silent yet powerful financial institution whose ramifications extend throughout the world. The widely-known First National Bank of New York was organized in July, 1863, and immediately took an active part in placing the United-States Government loans. In all subsequent Government loans it has been prominently identified, and in 1879, during the funding operation of that year the sales of United-States bonds aggregated nearly $500,000,000, and its deposits, including those of the United-States Treasurer, amounted to about $200,000,000. Its special line of effort from the first, however, has been devoted to acting as reserve agent for and receiving deposits of out-of-town banks, which have reached a sum larger than that of any other institution. The bank pays 100 per .cent, per NEW YORK : CHEMICAL NAT. BANK. annum in regular quarterly divi- greater surplus and undivided other bank in the United States. the United Bank Building, at Broadway, said to be the most The National Bank of the of nearly 40 years. It purchased Broadway, the most valuable February, 1851, for $110,000. half in " The United Bank Build- ground and two adjoining lots, $637,000, and the market value Civil War, this was the leading and in 1865 it changed to a and character are well estab- the United States. The recent ness is unparalleled. On May I, (v fi- ''- vjjB H f sSpi \ l^f'TO & s^P™ - HhF ltJlKi iOgT NEW YORK : UNITED BANK BLG. FIRST NATIONAL BANK. NATIONAL BANK OF THE REPUBLIC. dends, and has accumulated profits ($6,702,843), than any It is an undivided half owner of the corner of Wall Street and valuable site in this country. Republic has had an existence the corner of Wall Street and ground in North America, in It now owns an undivided one ing," erected in 1880, on that the book value of which is over $1,000,000. Prior to the State bank in Southern business, National bank. Its standing lished, and it is a depository of increase in its volume of busi- , I8S4, John Jay Knox, after 22 years of government service, and twelve years as Comptroller of the Currency, accepted the presidency. The net deposits were then $4,378,671 ; the discounts, $3,359,523 ; the surplus and profits, $668,335. Dur ing the last six years, there has been an increase of $8,577,100 in deposits, $5,654,125 in loans, and $256,978 in surplus and profits, after the payment of the eight per cent, regular dividends. The stock which sold for 112 now readily commands 190 in the market. The directory is composed of a careful body of experienced men, of large means and influence ; and the cashier, E. H. Pullen, has been 30 years in the bank. Its capital and aggregate profits are nearly $2,500,000; its deposits $15,600,000, and its resources $18,000,000. 6l2 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW YORK : NATIONAL PARK BANK. The National Park Bank of New York is famous for its enor mous number of accounts with banks and bankers throughout the United States (and especially in the South), in which regard it probably stands at the head. The business thus entailed requires the attention of more than loo clerks. The Park Bank was organ ized in 1856, and became a National bank in 1865. Three years later, it moved into the magnificent marble edifice which it had built for itself, on the site of Barnum's Museum, and in the heart of the busiest part of New York. The banking-rooms are not ex celled by any in the city ; and below them are invincible safe-de posit vaults, provided with every convenience for the use of custom ers. The capital-stock of the National Park Bank' is $2,000,000, with a surplus of $2,400,000. The average deposits amount to $27,000,000. The dividends amount to ten per cent, yearly; and the stock sells for $336 a share. Ebenezer K. Wright is President ; Jas. H. Parker, Vice-President; and George S. Hickok, Cashier. The Bank of America rose on the ruins of the old Bank of the United States, several of whose directors became its active pro moters, intending to attract to it much of the capital and business of the dying corporation, and thus make it what its name implies. In 1812 the Bank of America received a charter, providing for a capital stock of $6,000,000, and requiring it to pay the State $600,000 and to loan it $2,000,000. Oliver Wolcott, ex-sec retary of the United-States Treasury, was the first president, and the directorate included 18 of the foremost citizens of New York. The war of 1 8 12, the multiplication of banks, and the inflation and depreciation of the currency prevented the full success of the enterprise, and its capital was reduced to $2,000,000. The bank was reorganized under the General Banking Act of 1838, and for many years served as the local depository of the National funds. From 1857 until the old building was removed it was the depository for gold coin for the associated banks, issuing certificates payable in coin, and having at times upwards of $47,000,000 in gold in its charge. The home of the Bank of America was a quaint and massive structure in Egyptian architecture, dating from the year 1 835. On the same site now stands the lofty and magnificent new granite building, erected in 1888-9 f°r the home of this great financial corporation. The capital of the bank is $3,000,000, with a surplus and undivided profits of $2,000,000. The Fourth National Bank of the City of New York was organized in January, 1864, being the fourth New-York bank organized under the provisions of the National Bank Act of 1863. The movement to create the bank was initiated" by many leading citizens of New York, and its first president was the Hon. George Opdyke, who had just completed his term of office as Mayor of the city. The bank in 1888 secured as president J. Edward Simmons, who having held various posi tions of trust and responsibility was fitted by experience as well as by business capacity to preside over the fortunes of such an institution. The Vice-President is James G. Cannon, and the Cashier is Charles H. Patterson. The capital-stock is. NEW YORK : BANK OF AMERICA. NEW YORK : HANOVER NATIONAL BANK. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. $3,200,000, and the surplus and undivided profits amount to $1,700,000. The deposits average $20,000,000, and the loans and discounts $18,000,000. The business of the Fourth National Bank extends to every section of the country, and it has corre spondents at all principal points. The Hanover National Bank, of New York, received its charter in 1851, and began business in Hanover Square, whence it moved to 33 Nassau Street, and in 1877 to its present home on Nassau and Pine Streets. By judicious activity in conservative channels it has been able to pay over $2,000,000 in dividends, besides accumulating a surplus of over $1,500,000. These repre sent an aggregate yield of more than ten per cent, on the stock. The market value of the stock is $350 per share of $100 par value. The Hanover is proverbially rich in cash resources, and it is not unusual to see it with 40 per cent, of its deposits on hand in money. The present deposit amounts to nearly $18,000,000, and is continually growing. The Hanover has a large corre spondence with outside banks, and a valuable and excellently conducted foreign-exchange business ; and serves as a United-States depositary, having had a creditable share in upholding and advancing the credit of the Republic. One of the foremost of the financial institutions of the State outside of New-York City is the Bank of Buffalo, with a capital of $300,000, and a surplus of the same amount. Sharing in and advancing the development of Buffalo, as it has grown from the place of a small lake- port to that of one of the twelve great cities of the United' States, this bank has achieved an unprecedented prosperity, without departing from the safe lines of commercial policy, and holds deposits of above $4,000,000. Under the direction of President S. S. Jewett and Cashier Wm. C. Cornwell, and a strong board of directors, the bank has carried out many advanced ideas in financiering, while re taining the conservative principle that a substantial per centage of its deposits should be carried in cash or quick assets. Although founded as recently as 1873, this institution has revolution ized the banking business in Buffalo, and its counting-room is visited daily by the leading business men of the city. The Trust Companies are of paramount interest in New- York financial circles. They act as legal depositories for moneys paid into court, and for the funds of executors and administrators, as the trustees of estates, and in various other capacities. The greatest of these institutions in all this country is the United-States Trust Com pany, of New York, a strong and conservative corporation of many years' standing,, trustee and guardian of many important estates and depository of trust funds. Its capital ($2,000,000), together with its surplus ($7,500,000), reaches the colossal sum of $9,500,000; its de posits are about $36,500,000, and its gross assets $47,000,000. In the concentration of National wealth at New York, there are many great estates and corporations with investible funds, which find their best disposition in the control of such an institution as this, whose officers are always vigilant for the security of the great trusts com- BUFFALO : BANK OF BUFFALO. NEW YORK : UNITED-STATES TRUST CO. NEW YORK : CENTRAL TRUST CO. R'ING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. mitted to their charge. The building of the United-States Trust Company on Wall Street is a noble specimen of architecture, erected at a cost of over $1,000,000. The banking rooms have an air of simple grandeur, rarely seen in a place of business. The Central Trust Company of New York is under the presidency of Frederick P. Olcott. Its advance among the famous fiduciary in terests of the metropolis shows an unusual reward for foresight and enterprise, and has a record unequalled in its way on this continent. The capital stock is $1,000,000, and on this amount, between January, 1890, and March, 1891, the company declared bi-monthly dividends of five per cent., besides adding $420,000 to surplus account. Thus the business of 14 months shows a profit nearly equal to the invested capi tal. The surplus in 1884 was $1,500,000, and in the seven years in tervening over $3,000,000 more has been added to this surplus, although in the meantime the company has paid dividends averaging 2I1 per cent, a year. The Central Trust Company is a regular modern trust company. It allows interest on deposits ; is a legal depository for money paid into court ; is authorized to act as executor, administrator, guardian, or in any other position of trust ; also as registrar or transfer agent of stocks and bonds, and as trustee for railroad and other mortgages. Its building is one of the notable structures on Wall Street. Its capital and surplus is about $ 5,500,000, and its gross assets about $32,000,000. The Equitable Mortgage Company under the presidency of Charles N. Fowler has developed to a financial institution of con siderable magnitude. It was founded under the laws of Missouri, and has its headquarters in the Evening-Post Building, New York, with offices in Philadelphia, Boston, London and Berlin. The capital is now $4,000,000. The surplus and undivided profits amount to $1,800,000, and the gross assets are over $14,000,000. The company issues debentures, and deals in Government, State, county, city, school, water and railroad bonds. A prominent and interesting field of effort is in loans on farm-mortgages in the West and South, made through the local banks as loaning agents, thus securing agents familiar with the credit and character of the borrowers. The company also guards its interests by employing skillful attorneys and salaried expert valuers in the regions covered by its systems. In 1890 a com mittee of eight European and seven Eastern capitalists traveled over the United States to examine the Equitable's securities and systems, and pronounced this verdict : ' ' The mortgage system of the Equitable Company is skillfully devised and well adapted to secure a safe and prosperous business." Merchants and manufacturers have the opportunity of extending their trade to a degree limited only by their power to produce and their ability to determine the needs of consumers. Commerce — always con servative — follows the lines of knowledge, and advances with the definite determination of facts. The work of The Bradstreet Company is recog nized as one of the most potential in gathering, formulating and dis seminating the information necessary for the broadest development and the widest extension of all commercial or mercantile pursuits, for it has NEW YORK : , , . . , . . r ' the bradstreet co. always kept pace with, and even anticipated, the actual advancement, NEW YORK : EQUITABLE MORTGAGE CO. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 615 by its investigation of the material progress and prospects of the world's products, as also its careful consideration of the specific details of the responsibility and character so necessary to the proper estimate of individual credit. The massive quarto volumes of more than 2,200 pages contain the estimated worth and recognized credit, classified business, and address of more than a million of subjects, besides much other valuable information. Its offices nearly compass the earth. That its mighty mission has been fulfilled with fidelity as to facts, conservatism as to judgment, conscientiousness as to details, is proven by a record which challenges the attention and commands the respect of every person who has sought information through its channels or availed himself of its facilities for the investigation of personal credits. The Bradstreet Company is the oldest and financially the strongest organization of its kind ; working in the one interest and under one management, with wider ramifications, with greater investment of capital, and expending more money every year for the collection and dissemination of information than any similar institution in the world. It has long been recognized and practically endorsed by the highest local courts in the United States, and a constantly increasing business justifies the statement that the aid and protection afforded by this institution are becoming better understood, and the value of the information more fully appreciated. This company issues, under the name of Brad- street's, the foremost commercial and financial newspaper of this continent ; a sixteen- page weekly, giving the condition of the crops, the markets, and the news of commerce, finance and manu- discussions on all whole contents being and unbought. This the world over as the its particular work, list is an index of the ness houses of this Bradstreet's bindery, fairly ranks with the and London. For ship and delicacy of peers and no superi- :s-~ - - ~ — _ . — to_, - ' "to=? -,i~'-*es .::-i?ui-;^--"a;..j -toto" -;¦ ; v-^tv— v^ ¦¦¦'¦J- .VMjJ-", '-.'.';: r"- ,':-b^-:^^-.^, ,u ¦¦¦ NEW YORK : THE CITY HALL. factures, as well kindred topics, the absolutely unbiased newspaper is quoted standard authority in and its subscription most prominent busi- and other countries. in its high-class work, most famous of Paris quality of workman- finish it has few com- ors. The Bradstreet Company has been an important factor in the mercantile world for more than forty years, but its preeminent career began in 1876, with its present administration, under the presi dency of Charles F. Clark. Life-insurance. — No better evidence of the Christian civilization of the American people can be found than in the record of their life-insurance companies. Every State, county, city, yes, even hamlets, have their poor-houses, their "homes," and their charitable institutions to take care of those who have been improvident or unfortunate. But the noble spirit which urges every man to provide as far as he can against all emergencies for his own family, and for those who depend on him, is shown by the fact that this country has a long list of life-insurance organizations, which are doing on business principles the greatest amount of philanthropic service. There are various organizations bearing the name of life- insurance companies, but only those carrying out the approved system of sound life-insur ance are worthy of unlimited commendation. There are about a dozen of these in New York, and three of them, the Mutual Life, the Equitable Life, and the New- York Life, after paying out fabulous sums to widows and orphans and to holders of matured policies, have accumulated a grand total of $382,000,000, as security for the policies now in force upon the lives of men who are thus mindful of the care of their families. Over $8,600,000,000 in life-insurance (covering 4,000,000 policies) is in force in the United States, the yearly premiums reaching about $165,000,000, and the yearly payments to policy-holders $90,000,000. These receipts and payments are much greater than those of all 6i6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. the companies in all other parts of the world united. The regular life-insurance companies (excluding assessment societies) have already paid to their policy-holders and their families the colossal sum of $ 1 , 500, 000, 000, and yet hold in their coffers securities amounting to a sum of $25,000,000 in excess of the combined banking capital of the United States. Chauncey M. Depew recently said that the preeminence of the United States among the nations of the world "is most conspicuous in the number, solvency and assets of the institu tions where the mites of the poor constitute a fund for a rainy day and for the inevitable accidents of life, and of those where the accumulations of the prosperous and rich provide against the losses of fortune and death." The silver-tongued orator also added: "If a man knows, while earning enough for the support of his family, that by some process that family will be sustained and supported when he is dead, by a policy given by a good company upon a moderate premium, for a sum beyond anything which he could hope to accumulate under ordinary conditions, that man will cease to worry, and will live forever." Among the enormous corporations raised up to accomplish this end, and also to provide inalienable life-annuities, invested by the wisest financiers, and safeguarded by govern mental supervision, the three great metropolitan companies, the New- York Life, the Equitable, and the Mutual Life, stand preeminent, with unblemished records and almost unlimited resources, held and disbursed in accordance with public law and individual con tracts, for the p The Mutual having the largest being the greatest "tr ¦%;..-. -'-*-,.-.«;'¦'* *~ "¦*'-*•'» ~- ¦¦¦li'!li''iPlHlll ¦lilMiiOfcMiilMi ™J"^Jilifi|§TO ~roTTO^5i||£L NEW-YORK GENERAL AGENCY. tection and enrichment of their members. Life-insurance Co., of New York, enjoys the noble distinction of assets of any life-insurance company in the world, and also of financial institution, even much larger than the Bank of England. Its assets amount to about $150,000,000, the yearly in come being $35,000,000, and the yearly disbursements exceeding $24,000,000. There are 206,055 policies in force, insuring $638,226,865. The new business secured in a single year has exceeded $160,000,000. This corpor ation was among the first to do business as a modern life- insurance company, having been founded in 1843 ; and its growth has been steady, secure and beneficent ever since. The executive offices of the Mutual Life occupy one of the most admirable and exquisite structures in the world, at Nassau, Cedar and Liberty Streets, on the site of the old Post Office. The New-York general agency uses another immense structure, also the property of the company, at Broadway and Liberty Street. The Mutual Life is more than continental in its workings, and has its well-appointed agencies in all parts of the United States, Canada, Mexico, Great Britain and Continental Europe ; and issues all the approved forms of life, endow ment, annuity, and other policies. The Mutual Life for about 40 years was under the presidency of the late Frederick S. Winston, and at his death, Richard A. McCurdy, the former Vice-President, was chosen President, and under his administration the Mutual Life has become greater than ever before. This is one of those gigantic institutions about which it is im possible even to suggest its enormous operations, or to indicate its incalculable value to the whole people. Although it is officered by those selected by its policy-holders, it is nevertheless a semi-public institu tion, with its field of operations all over the civilized world. It is an enormous trusteeship for the welfare of the individuals and their families, who in time of strength and prosperity provide for old age and adversity. : MUTUAL LIFE-INSURANCE CO., EXECUTIVE OFFICES. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 617 iii'ialuM, The Equitable Life Assurance Society of the United States stands in the front of all life- insurance corporations of the world. It is the largest life-insurance company in the world in the amount of its annual business and of its insurance in force, the latter being over $700,000,000, covering nearly 200,000 policies. Its gross assets exceed $115,000,000. The new business in 1890 was over $200,000,000, being larger than that of any other com pany in the world. The Equitable also holds the largest surplus. The policies offered by the Equitable include a variety of forms, tontines, indemnity bonds, annuities and others. The society was organized in 1859. Henry B. Hyde is the President, and James W. Alex ander is the Vice-President. It has paid to policy-holders the enormous sum of over $140,000,000, one half of which was to widows and orphans. The Equitable Society has done much to liberalize the policy contract, and to make insurance popular. By the inven tion of the tontine system, it has revolutionized the practice of life-insurance. Under this system, those policy-holders who survive a certain period receive large cash returns, while the families of those who die early receive the insurance money as soon as satisfactory evidence of the death of the policy-holder is submitted. Many of these tontine policies maturing in 189 1 show, in addition to the 20 years of protection furnished, a return of all premiums paid, with a fair rate of interest added. The Equitable Building, erected by the Society in 1872, has been recently enlarged and contains the main offices. It is one of the largest and most substantial commercial build ings in the world. It fills the block on Broad way, from Cedar Street to Pine Street, con taining rented offices, occupied by over 1,500 people. The Broadway entrance leads into the finest rotunda in America, on whose pavements stand marble columns with onyx capitals, up holding an entablature of red granite and an arched roof of stained glass. The view from the roof of the building includes the entire city and suburbs. The offices of the Society (second floor) are perhaps the costliest and grandest of any used for business pur poses in this or any other country. This was the first office-building to introduce passenger- elevators, and to the managers of the Equitable the owners of buildings owe a debt of grati tude for adopting a practical means of making the upper floors desirable at high rentals. The Equitable Building is one of the attractions of New- York City to which all strangers are taken, to admire its architectural grandeur and the magnificent view from the roof. The New-York Life-insurance Company, of which William H. Beers is President, ranks on an equal footing with the fore most life-insurance corporations of the world, and is one "of the dozen greatest financial and fiduciary institutions. It has over 173,000 policies in force, insuring over $569,000,000. The company began business in 1845 > and since that date has paid over $56,000,000 in death claims, and over $86,000,000 in en dowments, annuities, dividends and surrender values. The in terest and rents received have exceeded the entire losses by death, a result which shows an adequate accumulation of assets, handled with masterly financial skill and a careful selection of risks. The New- York Life is purely mutual in its operations, and the profits are divided among its policy-holders exclusively. The assets amount to over $115,000,000. This vigorous and progressive company originated non-forfeiture and mortuary divi dend policies, and issues a greater variety of contracts than any NEW YORK : EQUITABLE LIFE-ASSURANCE SOCIETY. NEW YORK : NEW-YORK LIFE- INSUHANCE CO., HOME OFFICE. 6i8 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. km m 4/mr vl„ /, m mm IS e|e§£ fT 1 ~'m PFF?(F RP" 1% PF|F? Vt m rrvL|r 7rV rrrrr If: S3 | : jf : m mm r 1 ^y^$t££L NEW YORK : LIVERPOOL AND LONDON AND GLOBE INSURANCE CO. other company. It was for many years the only company to issue policies without a sui cide clause. Its endowment business is larger than that of any other company, and its an nuity business is larger than that of all other American companies combined. It owns large fire-proof office-buildings in New York, Kansas City, Omaha, Minneapolis and St. Paul, and several outside of the United States. The Fire-insurance interests of the United States have chal lenged the closest attention and best efforts of several powerful for eign corporations, preeminent among which is the Liverpool and Lon don and Globe Insurance Company, said to be the largest fire-insurance company in the world. This institution was founded at Liverpool in 1836, as the Liverpool Insurance Company; acknowledged its success at the British metropolis, by taking the title of the Liverpool and London Insurance Co., in 1848; and 16 years later augmented the title again, upon acquiring the business of the Globe Insurance Company. An agency was founded in the United States in 1851, and the same year the first board of directors was formed at New York. Since that time, the American business has advanced until its net fire premiums exceed $4,000,000 a year. In the Chicago and Boston fires of 1871 and 1872 the company lost $4,670,000, and its abundant American resources were not merely maintained but largely supplemented by English funds, so that all losses were promptly paid in full. These ample means in both hemispheres give greater security to the policy-holders of the Liverpool and London and Globe, whose United-States branch after paying over $48,000,000 in fire-losses now has a surplus of above $3,000,000. The Liver pool and London and Globe building in New York is one of the finest of those superb office edifices for which lower New York is famous, and although built some years ago, it stands in the front rank to-day. In fire-insurance one of the most notable corporations is the Con tinental Insurance Company, of New York, which dates its origin from the year 1853, when it started with the largest capital ($500,000) of any fire-insurance company at that time. The subscriptions to its stock poured in so freely that out of the overplus was organized the Home Insurance Company. The Continental has been a progressive company, and the late George T. Hope, the president for more than 30 years, was one of the foremost underwriters of his day. The paid-up cash capital is $1,000,000, and the available cash assets reach nearly $6,000,000, including a net surplus of $1,600,000, in addition to the reserve fund for insurance in force of $2,500,000. The gross income is about $2,500,000 a year, which largely exceeds the expendi tures for all purposes. The sums paid for fire-losses amount to over $25,000,000, $2,000,000 having been paid for losses by the Chicago fire of 1871, without impairing its capital, and $500,000 for the Boston fire of 1872. F. C. Moore is the President, and Cyrus Peck is the Vice-President and Secretary. A great sea-port like New York naturally has many companies for insuring vessels and in the Unite NEW YORK ; CONTINENTAL INSURANCE CO. their cargoes. The largest and strongest and most successful , - marine insurance company ed States is the Atlantic Mutual Insurance Company of New York, which was incorporated m !842, and now has assets of above $12,500,000, for the security of its policies. These amazing figures may be extended by the statement that the marine premiums amount to over $5,000,000 a year. The profits of the company revert to the insured, and are divided yearly upon the premiums terminated during the year, thereby THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 6n liifiiii NEW YORK: ATLANTIC MUTUAL INSURANCE CO. reducing the cost of insurance, the company being, as the name indicates, for the mutual benefit of its policy-holders. These dividends are paid in in terest-bearing certificates, known as "Scrip," which are in time redeemed by the company. Pro vision is made for issuing policies making the losses payable in England. The Atlantic Mutual owns its office buildings, on Wall Street, at the corner of William Street. John D. Jones, its President, has been identified with the company since it began business. Railroads.— The New- York Central & Hud son-River Railroad is one of the grandest routes of the world, and over its magnificent quadruple tracks passes a large proportion of the freight and passenger traffic between New York and New England and the West. Its Grand Central Station in New York is an enormous structure of brick, iron and glass, located in the very center of the city. Here come and depart the thronging trains of the routes from New England, as well as the vast passenger traffic of the Vanderbilt lines. It is the only railway passenger station on Manhattan Island. The New-York Central trains traverse the garden of the Empire State, rich in agricultural and in dustrial resources, and teeming with busy cities and attractive villages. For 140 miles they follow the beautiful Hud son River, through one of the finest scenic regions in the world, and beyond Albany they ascend the his toric Mohawk Valley, and pass on to and through the interesting cities of Schenectady, Utica, Rome, Syra cuse, and Rochester, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, reaching the latter either via Lockport or Buffalo. The famous "New-York & Chicago Limited," "North Shore Limited," and "Southwestern Limited" trains, running over this route, are probably the most magnificent and complete railway trains in the world, and give the quickest and most comfortable transit between New York and Boston, on the one side, and the great cities of the interior and Western States on the other. The New- York Central is the only railroad in the world with four tracks, forming an unrivalled steel highway between the East and the West. The Michigan Cen tral line connects with the New- York Central at Buffalo, and the great through trains pass from one system to the other, and across into Canada, with a magnificent prospect of Niagara Falls from Falls-View station. Flying across the wide Ontario plains, and Southern Michigan, the trains enter Chicago. The New York, Lake-Erie & Western Railroad runs from the metropolis northwest through the southern tier of counties to Buffalo, 422 miles, connecting for the West. The Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's Railroads run northeast from Binghamton to Albany, Lake Champlain and Montreal. The Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad follows the Lake- Ontario shores. There are many north and south and other lines. A favorite route from New- York City to the eastward, to Boston, to Providence, and to the White Mountains and other pleasure-resorts and cities of Massachusetts, New Hamp shire and Maine, is by the Providence & Stonington Steamboat Company. These magnifi cent vessels are among the staunchest, swiftest and most luxurious steamers in the world, NEW YORK : GRAND CENTRAL STATION. 620 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. LONG-ISLAND SOUND : PROVIDENCE AND STONINGTON LINE. and are of enormous size. The fleet includes the first-class steamships, Massachusetts, Con necticut, Rhode Island, Stonington and Narragansett, forming two lines eastward from New York, each with a boat leaving at late afternoon, the Stonington Line making connections with the Shore Line Railway, for Boston at Stoning ton, very early in the morning, while the Providence Line boat runs close to Block Island, and, avoiding the rough sea at Point Judith, ascends the whole length of Narra gansett Bay to Providence, where it con nects with the railways for Boston and all other New-England points. As these steamships pass majestically around New York and Brooklyn, by the deep and crowded rivers, they reveal a wonderful panorama of civic and maritime power and dignity ; and they sweep through Hell Gate, and out into Long-Island Sound, as evening comes down, and the lighthouses begin to twinkle. The "Providence Line" sails from Pier 29 (old number), and the " Stonington Line" from Pier 36, both in the North River. In March, .1852, Henry Wells, William G. Fargo, and others organized in New- York City, under the laws of the State of New York, Wells, Fargo & Company, to transact an Express, Exchange and Banking business, particularly on the Pacific Coast, but also be tween San Francisco, New York and Europe. The company sprang into existence, Minerva-like, fully equipped for service ; and at once engaged upon its long mission of trust and responsibility, ever since maintaining itself successfully amidst some of the most trying vicissitudes ; extending its lines farther and farther, over the mountains, across deserts and plains, and along inland water-ways, until it spans the broad continent, extending through out forty-one States and Territories within the United States and Mexico, as well as reach ing Great Britain and Continental Europe. In 1888 it acquired the Erie System, centering in New York, and extensive auxiliary lines, thus securing its own direct through lines to New York, Boston, and all other large commercial centres, and where it is now prominently represented. The company operates 40,000 miles of lines by railway, stage and steamer; has 2,720 agencies and about 6,000 employes ; transacts millions of business annually in its Express Department ; and handles, in its Banking Department, its accumulated capital and deposits, amounting to $10,000,000. The main office of the company in New- York City is at 63 Broadway, but its headquarters proper, or General Accounting Office, is in San Francisco. It was Wells, Fargo & Company that originated, in i860, the famous Pony Express, for the most rapid conveyance then possible of important mail correspondence, across the continent. The success of the undertaking demonstrated its practicability, and suggested other possibilities of accommodating the needs of the age. The narrow trail of the pony may be said to have marked out the course soon afterwards followed by the capa cious mail and passenger coaches, along with the telegraph-wires ; and in no less quick succession, that of the railroad-track and swift-speeding locomotive, which now unite in one bond of fraternal intercourse the widely separated extremities of the continent. The Express Building, in San Francisco, is one of the marked architectural features of that city, its massive exterior covering two thirds of a block. The interior arrangements are models for comfort and convenience ; and it is probably the largest and best appointed ex press office of the world- Hotels. — The noble white-marble pile of the Fifth-Avenue Hotel, in rich Corinthian architecture, new york: post-office. covering 1 8 city-lots, and accommodating I, ooo guests, THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 621 NEW YORK I FIFTH-AVENUE HOTEL AND MADISON SQUARE. marks a place in the heart of New- York City, and an era in the his tory of the Nation's wealth and advancement. It is located in the centre of the city, upon the charm ing Madison Square, and at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, and convenient to the most important points of interest in the metropolis. Its patrons include the most prominent men and women in America : The Presidents ; hundreds of Government officials, Senators, Congressmen, Judges, Army and Navy officers, divines, physicians, authors, and in fact all who have attained prominence in public and private life, both at home and abroad, and the most distinguished Europeans of rank and title who have visited this country. It has been the centre of the great public occasions which the city has witnessed for thirty years. Years have come and gone, new hotels have multiplied, with innovations introduced to affect and influence patronage, but the Fifth-Avenue is as new and fresh as the most recent hotels, and with more liberal accommodations than any of them, and its well-earned reputation, as the leading hotel of the world, is assured. New York is the metropolitan city of the greatest nation of travellers that the world has ever seen, and it is natural that it should be richly endowed k with public accommodations for its myriads of transient I guests. Prominent among these homes of the voyagers is the magnificent Gilsey House, whose white marble walls rise above the surrounding buildings, at the corner of Broadway and 29th Streets, close to the up-town theatres, and within a square of the elevated railroad, by whose aid people can quickly and easily reach any part of the city. This house dates from about the year 1876, but has been added to at various times, and has always been a favorite resort for the travelling public. It is kept on the European plan. Not only is it a thoroughly appointed modern hotel in every sense of the word, but it is handsomely furnished, and kept up in most creditable style. Its restaurant is famous all over the world as unsurpassed in this country. The senior proprietor is James H. Breslin, one of the uni versally known hotel-kings of America, who occupies also the responsible position of Presi dent of the Hotel-Men's Benefit Association. He is also the senior landlord of the wonder ful Auditorium Hotel at Chicago. In some respects the Niagara Hotel, at Buffalo, stands without a rival. Planned, built and owned by George H. Lewis (of the well-known coal-mining firm of Bell, Lewis & Yates), a gentleman of great wealth and wide travel, it has many of the delightful attributes of a refined and beautiful home, unusual in the public houses of our Republic. The main hall, or reception-room, is fur- I nished and decorated in exquisite taste, with easy chairs, Ori ental rugs and works of art, with the office alcoved in one side, and on another a great tropical conservatory of palms and cacti, with fountains, birds and music. The beautiful parlors, the comfortable guest-chambers, and all other parts of the house are in the same key of quiet luxury, and are provided with all devices for sanitation, abundant water and buffalo: Niagara hotel. scientific ventilation, and automatic fire-alarms. NEW YORK ! GILSEY HOUSE. 622 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. DANSVILLE '. THE JACKSON SANATORIUM. The Niagara stands in a situation of unusual beauty, on the crest of Prospect Hill, close to the umbrageous parks which border Niagara Street, and within a few steps of the street cars. From the windows, and from the adjacent park, in front of Fort Porter, the view in cludes the soft blue Chautauqua hills, the rural Canadian shores, the shining plain of Lake Erie, and the resistless current of the Niagara River. In summer, the house is cool and airy ; in winter, its beautiful palm-gardens preserve the temperature of the Bahamas. Besides being the home of many well-to-do families, the Niagara is a favorite stopping place for the best class of travellers, for it affords them'the most admirable opportunities for quiet rest, and is easily reached from the centre of the city. The manager is Charles A. Dunn. In the beautiful and salubrious hill-country of Western New York, and amid the Tyrolese scenery of Dansviile, stands one of the notable institutions of America, the Jackson Sana torium, founded in 1858 aw»mB5^!;»ri by Dr. James C. Jackson, for the scientific care of chronic invalids, and for a place where overworked and nervous men and women could find rest and recuperation. The high Dansviile region is entirely free from malaria, and has an exceptionally dry and pure air, perfumed from vast evergreen forests, with cool summer-nights, and singularly mild and almost snowless winters. This favorable climate has given the adjacent Genesee Valley its fame as a rich fruit and grain country. The Sanatorium is supplied, from lofty rocky heights, with the purest of water, of great efficacy in curing many diseases. The regularity, quietude and comfort of the life here, re-enforced in some cases by thermo-electric and electric, Turkish and Russian baths, massage and in unction, and other restorative agencies, have brought back health to many an invalid, and far prolonged the lives of many incurables. From the handsomely illustrated pamphlets issued by the manager, J. Arthur Jackson, M. D., it is learned that the Sanatorium includes a magnificent main building of brick and iron, erected in 1883, and absolutely fire-proof, with elevators and electric bells, steam heat and detached sewage system, and broad prom enade piazzas. There are twelve pleasant cottages clustered about it, in a picturesque hill side park of forty acres, 1,200 feet above the sea. The managing physicians are James II. Jackson, M. D., Kate J. Jackson, M. D., and Walter E. Gregory, M. D. J. Arthur Jack son is manager. The Theatres of New York are numbered by hundreds, from the comfortable play houses of the smaller cities up to the great opera-houses of New- York City, and its mag nificent Madison-Square Garden, one of the wonders of the world. Among these places of amusement there are two in New-York City that hold a high place in the esteem of all people, the "Madison Square" and "Palmer's;" both under the single management of A. M. Palmer, whose career has been distinguished for ability, purpose, refine ment and success. These two theatres as well as the Union- Square during Mr. Palmer's management, from 1872 to 1882, have been powerful agencies for the development of a wholesome influence of the stage and on those con nected with stage life, and Mr. Palmer's record will always be referred to for its unswerving devotion to that only which is pure and elevating ; the result being that his audi ences represent the culture and refinement of these times. Then, too, both these theatres are notable for their NEW YORK,* .PALMER'S THEATRE. new york: madison -square theatre. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. construction. The Madison-Square, when rebuilt by Steele Mackaye, was regarded as the ideal theatre of its time ; having a moving double stage, to allow for the arranging of the scenery for one act while another is going on ; its curtain is a work of art, in velvet, with very heavy hand embroidery; its orchestra plays just over the proscenium arch ; all the workshops being outside the main structure ; and here were first introduced soft tones and harmonious blendings in the finish and decorations. "Palmer's" was built by Lester Wallack, the famous light comedian and manager, one of the Wallack family who dominated the New-York stage for 40 years. He spent a. great fortune to erect this theatre, which is notable for its elegance, commodiousness, and solidity. Both theatres are practi cally fire-proof, and have many places of exit. Mr. Palmer acquired the Madison Square in 1884, and Palmer's in 1888. In 1880 he originated the Actors' Fund, ever since being its president. It has distributed $150,000 in charities. Among the many American plays he has placed before the public two are memorable for their remarkable successes : Bronson Howard's "The Banker's Daughter," and Bartley Campbell's "My Partner." Lumber and Coal are among the commodities most largely handled in New York, and two of their chief ports, Tonawanda and Rondout, lie at opposite ends of the State. Tonawanda, situated midway between Buffalo and Niagara Falls, ranks second only to Chicago as the greatest lumber centre in the world. Here since 1870 have grown up a score or more of firms whose huge piles of lumber cover many hundreds of acres, and whose many miles of lumber docks make a sight seen only at a few places on this continent. It is no wonder that Tonawanda has thus developed, for it is not only favorably situated for receipts and shipments by lake, canal and rail ; but here was found a vast acreage of low, flat land, just suited to the most economical handling and storage of immense quantities. Here about 800, 000, 000 feet are received in a year. Over 150, 000, 000 shingles are either made or received here. In 1890 over 1,400 vessels entered the port of Tonawanda, and all the year round can be seen large fleets of many-sized and many-shaped vessels. Of the score of Tonawanda firms engaged in the lumber industry there are several that rank among the great- _^rK~~ ¦¦'i . >s "" _-v- est lumber concerns of the United States. For example, A. M. Dodge & Co. , whose great yards at North Tonawanda are the outlets for the tonawanda : a. m. dodge * co. products of their sev eral lumber manufacturing establishments, where their yearly output is about 150,000,000 feet, chiefly of white pine. The capital employed by this firm alone amounts to several million dollars, and its shipments of lumber are made all over the world. The plant erected at Rondout, by the Dodge Coal Storage Company, of Philadelphia, is the most wonderful coal-handling mechanism in America for trimming and re-loading enormous quantities of coal, by means of endless chains travelling over trussed shear-frames. This in genious coal-handling machinery results in vast economies of money and labor. rondout : dodge coal storage co. 's system. 62„ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. The Newspapers of New York, and especially the great metropolitan dailies, arc among the most powerful agencies in forming and directing American public opinion. Many of the brightest writers in the country are kept busy the year round in preparing the articles for these unrivalled newspapers, the libraries of the people. The New- York World is unanimously admitted to enjoy the distinction of "America's foremost newspaper." From the time of its purchase by its present proprietor, Joseph Pulitzer, it has en tirely outstripped all journalistic history in its unheard-of accom plishments, phenomenal growth, and startling innovations. From a circulation of 33,521 copies a day in 1883, The World has advanced by gigantic strides to 316,636 a day in 1890. Its advertising has sustained an equal ratio of ifTcrease, the records showing 7,241 advertisements per month in 1883, and 64,223 per month during 1890. The World was founded in i860, as a re ligious daily, with large means. It did not succeed; and in 1862 was bought by S. L. M. Barlow, August Belmont, and others, and made the leading Democratic journal of America, under the editor ship of Manton Marble, who, in 1869, came into possession of the entire property. In 1876, it passed into other hands, and steadily ran down until Mr. Pulitzer came from St. Louis and bought it, introducing new men, measures and methods, new purposes, policy and principles. The Pulitzer Building, the new home of The World, was erected in 1889-90, from designs by George S. Post, the architect of the Produce Exchange, and is a magnificent busi ness structure, embodying the very latest and best ideas in con structive art. It is the tallest office-building in the world, and the highest structure in New York (309 feet from sidewalk to lantern ; 375J feet from foundation to the top of the flagstaff). The floors and dome are carried by a mighty skeleton of iron and steel columns and beams, to which the walls are but as clothing. This colossal and uninflammable 26-story structure lifts its impressive dome high above even the mighty buildings which stand around it, about the City-Hall Park ; and contains the most perfect and best-equipped newspaper offices in the world. In the carrying to such a wonderful success his gigantic undertaking, Mr. Pulitzer has shown that it is possible for one man to be both a great editor and a great business man. The New-York Times, one of the most commendable newspapers of the world, was founded in 1 851, by George Jones, its present proprietor, who is the oldest and one of the most famous of New- York newspaper owners, and Henry J. Raymond, formerly Horace Greeley's assistant on the Tribune, and one of the most brilliant men America ever produced. The Times started as a one-cent four-page paper, but the price was doubled the next year, and the future of the enterprise became assured. One of the grand est of journalistic achievements was the victorious attack made by the Times on the Tweed ring, the plunderers of New York, all of whose members were driven into prison or exile as a result. Formerly a strong Republican paper, of late years the Times has been independent in politics, supporting civil-service reform and tariff reduction, fight ing trusts, and generally opposing all the seemingly un worthy actions of the Republican and Democratic adminis trations. Its reports are accurate, concise, and readable, NEW YORK : 'THE WORLD" BUILDING. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 625 and ample room is given to literature and religious news, art and science, the army and navy, agriculture and market reports, and commercial and industrial progress. The thor ough appointments of the counting, editorial, composition, and press-rooms put The Times establishment on an equal footing with the best in the world. The Times occupies a mag nificent 13-story building of Maine granite and Hoosier Indiana limestone, between Spruce and Nassau streets and Park Row, in the unique newspaper district of New York. The Times building is a most graceful office-edifice, and its simple elegance and admirable con struction throughout make it one of the most notable architectural specimens of the city. The Evening Post is very nearly as old as the century, the first number having been issued on the 16th of November, 1801. It was established by Alexander Hamilton and certain of his po litical friends, as an organ of the Federalists in New- York City. William Coleman, a native of Boston, and at one time the law partner of Aaron Burr, was selected as editor-in-chief, and held that position until his death, 20 years later. William Cullen Bryant became one of the editors of the paper in 1826, but did not assume full control of it until 1828. In the following year he took William Leggett into partnership, and left the latter in edi torial charge when he went to Europe in the summer of 1834. Pie returned to America in the early part of 1836, and soon after ward Mr. Leggett retired, on account of the temporary unpopular ity in which he had involved himself and the paper by his vigorous denunciations of the subjection of the Abolitionists to mob law, and his sturdy defense of the right of free speech in regard to slavery and other topics. During the administration of President Jackson The Evening Post was one of the strongest opponents of the United-States Bank, and also won wide recognition as an able and consistent advocate of free trade. From that day to this it has been constant in its active resistance to high protection and in its exposure of the fallacies of that theory. In the early days of Mr. Bryant's editorship the policy of the paper was Democratic, but it became Republican when the slavery extension question arose. From 1849 until 1861 John Bigelow was Mr. Bryant's partner, and acted as managing editor. Upon Mr. Bigelow's retirement his interest reverted to Isaac Henderson, who was the active business manager of the paper for many years, but had no authoritative voice with respect to its policy, which Mr. Bryant was careful to retain in his personal control. When Mr. Bryant died, his son- in-law, Parke Godwin, who had been connected with the paper in different capacities for many years, succeeded to the editorship, and retained it until the present proprietors came into possession, in 188 1. Since that time The Evening Post has been conducted in a spirit of complete inde pendence, under the editorship of E. L. Godkin and Horace White. The Independent stands by general consent at the head of the religious papers of the United States, if not of the world. It was started in 1848 as an organ of the younger liberal Congregational ists, and backed by five young business men, one of whom, Henry C. Bowen, soon became its sole owner, and has continued such to the present time. Its first editors were Leonard Bacon, R. S. Storrs, Joseph P. Thompson, and Joshua Leavitt. Seven years later Henry Ward Beecher became editor, assisted by Theodore Tilton, who succeeded him after a few years. During Mr. Beecher's control the paper enlarged its scope, and was made an undenominational journal. In 1871 Mr. Tilton retired, and Mr. Bowen assumed edi torial charge. Among his assistants have been Dr. Edward NEW YORK : 'THE EVENING POST.' NEW YORK : ' THE INDEPENDENT.' 6-6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ' THE LEDGER.' Eggleston, Dr. William Hayes Ward, Justin McCarthy, Dr. Washington Gladden, Dr. Henry K. Carroll, Prof. Borden C. Bowne, and Prof. C. H. Toy. It is the largest religious paper published, and combines the character of a literary magazine with that of a religious journal ; not only discussing all current religious questions, but providing an extensive com bination of literary attractions in poems, stories, and essays, by the most distinguished writers, and also giving financial, commercial, and general news and discussions. It appeals especially to thinking people, and it pays more for contributions from outside writers than any other three or four religious papers ; and of necessity carries exceptional influence. The New- York Ledger, one of the most successful of American periodicals, was founded in 1856 by Robert Bonner, the father of its present editors and proprietors. Its success was due entirely to the originality and enterprise of its founders. Nothing like it was known before, and the methods pursued in its production and distribution were equally new. The best writers were engaged, at unexampled rates of compensation, and the paper was adver tised on a scale altogether without precedent. A new industry was created to distribute it to the public; and the system of news-agencies, then in its infancy, sprang up at once into its full growth. The success then initiated has been maintained. There is the same splendid liberality in procuring the best contributions from the most popular writers, and placing them in an attractive form before the public. The Ledger continues to be one of the best-advertised papers in the United States. Among its contribu tors are Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett, Robert Louis Stevenson, Amelia E. Barr, John G. Whittier, James Russell Lowell, Judge Albion Tourgee, Anna Katherine Green, James Parton, Herbert Ward, Harold Frederic, and Robert Grant. The present proprietors have begun to issue, in book-form, the popular works pub lished as serials in The Ledger, and these form an im portant department in the publishing business of the firm. The house of Robert Bonner's Sons succeeded to the business of Robert Bonner, in 1887, and are the editors and proprietors of the Ledger and the Ledger Library. The New-York Tribune, founded in 1841 by Horace Greeley, and conducted by Whitelaw Reid, has been for many years the beacon-star of the Repub lican party in the Nation, and the ideal journal of cur rent reform. The Sun, Charles A. Dana's great paper, has a colossal circulatibn among the people of the whole country, and is the favorite paper for journalists. The New- York Herald, founded in 1835 by James Gordon Bennett, is especially rich in foreign news, and is regarded as a typical American newspaper, in enterprise and ability. The German- Americans are represented by the Staats-Zeitung; and other races by other papers. The magazines of New York, Harper's, The Century, Scribner's and others, enjoy enormous circulations, the world over. The Manufactures of New York are of inde scribable variety and vast extent, extending from the diamond-cutting of Tiffany and the fine book-making of the famous printing-houses, to the most gigantic achievements in heavy metal-work. NEW YORK : THE ASTOR LIBRARY. NEW YORK : WALL STREET, THE SUB-TREA8URY, AND TRINITY CHURCH. THE STATE OF NEW YORK NIAGARA FALLS AND THE NIAGARA RIVER. 628 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. In the Washington Block in Buffalo is situated a typographical establishment, of unique interest to the readers of this book ; for there it was made. The larger part of this spacious building, with 166 feet of frontage on each of two principal streets, is occupied by the Complete Art-Printing Works of The Matthews-Northrup Company, in connection with the Buffalo Express, the property of the president and the treasurer of the company. There are a few larger printing establishments than this, though it occupies over two acres of floor-space, and has a weekly pay-roll of over $5,000 ; but competent judges have said that for completeness in all that pertains to the typographic art it stands without a rival. Here the search for perfection has resulted in the addition of separate departments, calculated to turn out the best of work in all that pertains to printed matter, until now the establishment can carry through the production of even the most elaborately illustrated work without calling in the assistance of a sub-contractor. Perhaps the best example of this completeness is furnished by this very volume. At least twelve separate contracts might have been made for this book, and probably would have been, if the publishers had not believed that each of these contracts could best be filled by this one house. It may inter est its reader to see enumerated the various branches of work used to produce it, specify ing only those commonly carried on alone. 1st, Designing, or putting into art-form the special ornamental features like the cover, title-pages and illuminations ; second, illus trating, or the obtaining of the original material from which the 2, 500 illustrations were made ; third, engraving upon wood for ^^^fe^ffs '^e production of some of these illustrations ; fourth, drawing with ,^^il|slll!§t§y$ Pen and ink, and engraving in facsimile for other illustra- _^^S^ml^HlH:^^feii.'l tions; fifth, engraving upon wax, for the production ^sgjjj [ nuflHIl'^gllfflisL. °^ t^e maPs 5 s'xtri, en" graving by the direct pho- ffCS liSSl^ffiSa^MiS^KiS tographic process ("pho totype" or "half-tone") >jJL;i \] ' ilSH^SfiTpjyjJjftSlf'V • for the lining Pages ; seventh, type - setting ; il^J&'iuKM^sSS^^fc^- 1 9 |hIs|4ilt ¦'! eighth, electrotyping ; ninth, printing of the ' ' ^IflMPM^J^jS $JiHi§ t't HI TtlflS^S1''' body of the work ! tenth> color printing of maps a.^^^^^^^^^^^^Hg|jay^^fflK^Bi and illuminations; eleventh, making the ™ * cases ; twelfth, binding. Of course, so varied a BUFFALO : THE "«thews-northrup co. lant could not often be ,.,. , , ART-PRINTING HOUSE. "THE BUFFALO EXPRESS." , , . r r . , utilized on anyone work, and but fewot the custo mers of this great establishment have ever had experience of so many of its advantages. In the map department is probably found the widest distribution of customers. Mexico, Australia and England round out a list which includes most of the large publishers, and probably half the railroads in this country. In the character of printers for railroads the public is most familiar with this house, for its imprint is found far and wide upon folders, guide-books and pamphlets ; but many commercial and manufacturing concerns have found that there was no better place to get a handsome catalogue, and general advertisers have taken editions of hundreds of thousands of pamphlets, because they found that the same care and skill and thought which made a large work great, would make a little work attractive. The founder of the business was the late J. N. Matthews, who, in 1878, bought The Express, then the skeleton of what had been an influential newspaper. Mr. Matthews was both a born journalist and a great printer. At one and the same time he started The Express on a career which has made it one of the best-known and most influential newspapers in New-York State, and in connection with younger men founded the printing-firm of Mat thews, Northrup & Company. Until his death, in 1888, he was the active head of these two businesses, and they are still managed by the men whom he trained for the purpose. One of the best results of the intimate connection between an enterprising newspaper and a great printing and engraving house has been the Buffalo Illustrated Express (the Sunday edition of the daily Express). Commencing in quite a small way to illustrate current local events, this paper has grown to be a splendid example of what an illustrated newspaper should be, and fills a field of more than local extent. NEW YORK : AMERICAN BOOK CO. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. In 1890 the American Book Company, the greatest school-book publishing-house in the world, came into exist ence, buying up the school-book lists of D. Appleton & Co., Ivison, Blakeman & Co., A. S. Barnes & Co., Van Antwerp, Bragg & Co. , and Harper & Bros. The chief stockholders were formerly members of the four first-named firms, which have all retired from school-book publishing. The com pany has establishments at New York, Cincinnati and Chi cago, and its business is of world-wide extent and immense proportions. The American Book Company has 2,000 text books on its lists, suitable for all grades and departments, from the country primary-school to the university, and used in every part of America, besides being exported to Mexico and South America, England and the Continent, Syria and India, China and Japan, Egypt, South Africa and the Congo Free State. The consolidation of interests has resulted in a marked lowering of prices, because the books can now be made and sold much more economically. It has resulted also in the making of better books than ever before, because while each have had separately some exceptionally strong specialties, now all these strong points can be united. Then, too, the combined experience of all the great school-book makers must result beneficially for the education of the whole of the coming generations. American text -books are in advance of all others, in general excellence, and the efforts of the American Book Company will place them in a position even more commanding. On that part of Pearl Street better known as Franklin Square — near the Brooklyn Bridge, and the New-York Post-Office and City Hall — is the Harper & Brothers' establishment, the largest and best-known publishing-house in the United States, if not in the world. Three immense buildings are fully occupied in the business. Within their walls 1,000 peo ple are employed in the production of the Harper books and periodicals, and thousands of tons of finished printed matter of a high character go thence every year. In 1812 James and John Harper left their father's farm in Newtown, L. I., and came to New York to be apprenticed as printers. After five years they started the office of J. & J. Harper, and began printing books. James was the best pressman in town, and John an excellent compositor. The first work that bore their imprint was Locke's Essay on the Human Un derstanding, issued in 18 1 8. Joseph Wesley Harper and Fletcher Harper, their younger brothers, after learning the same trade, entered the firm, the one in 1823, and the other in 1825. In this latter year they moved to Cliff Street, and the business soon became the largest in the city. In 1833 the firm adopted the style of Harper & Brothers — a name that has become indissolubly identified with the noblest and most creditable literature of this age. After the disastrous fire of 1853, designs for new buildings, thoroughly fire-proof, strong, well-lighted and ventilated, were at once drawn up, and the present iron edifice on Franklin Square is the result, buildings, although nearly 40 years old, that still command architectural attention. A court-yard separates the front from the rear building, and in the centre is a tower with a spiral stairway. There are no interior staircases ; and the elevator, furnaces and steam-engines are in the court-yard. The interior frame-work of both buildings is iron, sup ported on heavy brick piers. Every operation entering into book-making, except the manufacture of paper and ink, is conducted on the premises — type-setting, electro- typing, designing, engraving, press- work, and binding, as well as the editorial work. The character of the 6,000 books of this house, and of their several periodicals, is well-known the world over. Harper's Magazine, established in 1850; NEW vork : harper s. brothers. 630 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Harper's Weekly, in 1857 ; Harper's Bazar, in 1867, and Harper's Young People, in 1879, were deservedly successful from the beginning. The firm name remains the same to-day that it was 58 years ago. James, the eldest of the original four brothers, died in 1869, aged 74 years; Joseph Wesley, the third, died in 1870, aged 69; John, the second, died in 1875, aged 78 years; and Fletcher, the youngest, died in 1877, aged 71 years. The busi ness is now carried on by six members of the second and third generations. Who can estimate the noble influence that the work of the Harpers has exerted, through three generations, an influence unequalled by even the foremost educational institution ! The American Bank Note Company of New York is one of the most famous industries of the Nation. Its world-wide renown has been the result of a rare combination of the highest artistical and mechanical skill through out a long experience, and its standing to-day is unequalled. The business was founded in 1795, incorporated in 1858, and enlarged and re-organized in 1879. The early and wide-spread use of paper-money rendered it imperative to produce engraved work which could not be counterfeited. ,, The best artists competed in making designs, skilful chemists 9|fi|ll |||j S3b*,s" " devised inks and colors to be brilliant ami ineradicable, or delible and sensitive, and inventors applied the principles of mechanics to intricate geometrical engraving. The consolida tion of these interests under the American Bank Note Com pany united the resources and reputation, the safe-guards and facilities of a century's experience, with abundant capital to test new inventions and acquire new processes. It has prepared -,,,,, . j -,, ; to", j securities to the value of millions and millions of dollars, and . to ~f\ EH IIilMjt!*?I3^ bank-notes innumerable, also postage stamps, bonds, stoeks, diplomas, drafts, etc., not only for the Government and financial institutions of the United States, but also for Canada and the West Indies, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Salvador, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, the Argentine Republic, Uruguay, Brazil, Russia, Italy, Greece, Spain, England, Sweden and Switzerland. 'Besides its steel- plate engraving, the American Bank Note Company has executed for railroads and various corporations many of the most notable specimens of letter-press printing in black and in colors. The company built and owns, close by Trinity Church, its commodious fire-proof premises, covering ten city lots, the most elegant and complete establishment in its line in the world, where the entire work of engraying and printing is executed. A department of art in which New York holds a high rank is lithography, which has been studied and carried forward here with increasing skill for many decades. In 1848 Napoleon Sarony founded an industry in this field, which afterwards won a high reputa tion under the title of Sarony, Major & Knapp. The three heads of this firm one by one retired, and now the business is controlled by Joseph P. Knapp, a son of one of the founders. The business represents an investment of $600, qoo, including the spacious buildings on Park Place, New York, where 200 operatives are kept at work making chromos and lithographs of all kinds, show-bills, album- cards, chromo-plates for books, and an endless variety of similar articles. All the most modern processes and me chanisms are employed, with results of surprising beauty, so that the chromo of to-day has ceased to be a by-word of reproach, and is one of the most efficient and attractive means of popularizing art. The Knapp lithographic es tablishment is the largest in the country devoted solely to new yorkT Joseph p. knapp. NEW YORK : AMERICAN BANK NOTE CO. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 631 lithography, and its patrons are chiefly enormous concerns in all parts of the Union, who find here the perfection of illustrative work of this character. An attractive and interesting feature of Buffalo is the great lithographic establishment . of Cosack & Co. It employs upwards of 300 persons, and occupies its own large and handsome building on Lake-View Avenue, 100x300 feet. The company dates from 1864 ; and twelve years later its renown was so high that the commissioners of the Centennial Exposition entrusted this firm with the lithographic reproduction of the most important exhibits of the Centennial Exposition, published and known as "Treasures of Art, Industry and Manufacture." Since that time, Cosack & Co. have made such notable ad vances in their art, that when the projectors of the magnificent work on ancient Egypt, "Miz- raim," were ready to place their contracts for this mammoth work — without doubt the greatest enterprise ever attempted in the annals of pub lishing — it was also entrusted to this firm. Americans and Europeans characterize the beauty buffalo: cosack 4 ca of theplates as so far superior to the " Prisse d'Avennes, " "Lepsius," "Brugsch Bey," etc., issued under the auspices of the German and French Governments, as to completely over shadow them, clearly demonstrating Cosack & Co.'s standing among the color printers of the world. Their lithographic press-room is the largest and most complete in America, without the obstruction of a single shaft, post, belt or partition, the roof being held up by immense trusses, and the shafting and belting in a tunnel under the floors. In addition to the transaction of a regular lithographic business, and the production of publications and lithography for all commercial purposes, they also carry in stock the largest and most varied and complete assortment of advertizing specialties to be found in the world. Herman Cosack and H. T. Koerner are lithographers of commanding skill ; and the third partner, Charles E. Hayes, controls the business department and the company's branches at New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, Boston, Hartford, Cincinnati, St. Louis, Pittsburgh and Toronto. When it is considered how much use is made of type-setting for newspapers, periodi cals, books, and commercial work, it can be readily understood that printing ranks among the foremost of all American industries. For a long period there was no important im provement made in the setting of type, until the Linotype machine was invented — a machine that is likely to revolutionize the art of printing. The Linotype machines are manufac tured, sold and leased by the Mergenthaler Printing Company. Organized in 1886, with a capital of $1,000,000, it has large works in Brooklyn, employing 300 men. It is the sole licensee of the National Typographic Company, which has consolidated the interests of many persons who have been for years developing methods to take the place of type-setting. The Linotypes are already in use by the New- York Tribune, Louisville Courier-Journal, Provi dence Journal, and many other newspapers. They can set up 9,000 ems an hour, while a type-setter by hand will average only about 1,000 ems. The Linotype dispenses with the use of movable or ordinary type, and with com posing and distributing it. By the operation of keys it discharges matrices and spaces, until the line is com posed. It is then justified, and molten type-metal forced into a mold, making a bar, or linotype, of any required length. The linotype is then automatically ejected, and added to the preceding series of bars, and J ' r. °. „. . . NEW YORK : MERGENTHALER PRINTING CO. the matrices returned to their magazines. 1 he machine THE linotype. TOMPKINSVILLE : LOUIS DEJONGE & ¦ KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. automatically assembles the line, justifies, casts and dis tributes it. This wonderful typographical invention is fast making its way into printing-offices throughout America and England. Louis Dejonge & Co., whose main offices are in New- York City, are beyond all question the foremost house in America in their special industry, which consists of the importation and manufacture of fancy papers, leathers, bookbinders' cloth, box-makers' pictures, borders and ornaments, and tar and pasteboard, and the kindred sup plies needed by bookbinders and box-makers. At their extensive works at Tompkinsville, on Staten Island, composed of several substantial buildings, their special products include fine lithographic coated papers for color work ; plated and glazed surface-coated papers in all colors for printers and paper-box makers ; plain and embossed leather papers ; and also lining papers for bookbinders. In these lines this is the foremost and the oldest house in this country. The business was established in 1847; and in 1858 the factory began opera tions. Employment is given to 400 people ; the business reaching $2,000,000 a year. The business was carried on under the name of J. & L. Dejonge, succeeded in 1868 by the present firm ; Louis Dejonge still being at its head, and his associates being Charles F. Zentgraf and Louis Dejonge, Jr. At Ballston Spa are the paper-mill offices of the Hon. George West, several times a member of Congress, and recognized as one of the most notable paper-makers .in America. He came from England in 1848, after having served at the paper-trade about a dozen years, as he had been apprenticed in 1837. Since 1848 he has never been out of this industry. At first he settled as a journeyman in Massachusetts, where by industry and ability he obtained the appro bation of his employers and associates, and by economy he managed to accumulate some little means. Later he came to New- York State, and in 1862 he bought the Empire Mills at Ballston Spa. Since then he has acquired and still owns eight paper mills — the Union, Island, Glen, Eagle, Pioneer, Excel sior, Empire, and Hadley, their total capacity being 30 tons of paper a day, in addition to 3,000,000 paper bags. The product is manilla paper, in all its grades, weights and sizes, and in many shades. He was the first to introduce into the United States a "Dandy Roll," for making special water-marked writing papers. His goods are sold throughout the Union. At Ballston Spa he has been active in public affairs, and is prominent in the finan cial and fraternal institutions. Here, too, is West's Spring, which, sunk to a depth of 600 feet, pours forth a stream resembling the Saratoga waters, but which Prof. Maurice Perkins declares is stronger than any of them, and a very valuable mineral spring. The universally popular interest in photographic art, which is so marked a feature of the present day, depends largely on apparatus and supplies devised or introduced by E. & H. T. Anthony & Co., 591 Broadway, New-York City, preeminent in all the world as manufacturers and sellers of all photographic materials. The famous house of E. & H. T. Anthony & Co. was founded in 1842, as a result of the efforts of Edward Anthony to fol low out the discovery made by Daguerre. By the year 1850 E. Anthony had become the largest manufacturer of photographic materials in the world. Two years later Edward's brother, Henry T. Anthony, entered the firm. In 1870 Col. Vincent M. Wilcox entered the company, of which he is now president. W. H. Badeau was a partner from 1865 to f* ~s ,TO-TO; 1 ; yiaii.ii> 0 ~^~ -- 11 Ifis^a .z'.Vfil - ; -jf-j to at Hj !.'' _ ""^n v~*rv ¦<; . - ''! ^?s ^ irr ¦^ljjl r> .1 1 " T .: ~ TO; ^§5spS2; p| 4fc i- s- ; '- BALLSTON SPA : GEORGE WEST'S UNION MILL. NEW YORK : E. & H. T. ANTHONY. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 633 1875. E. and H. T. Anthony are both dead, but younger members of the family have taken their places. The Anthony establishment occupies all four floors of a building extending through from Broad way to Mercer Street, New York, and has its chemical works in Jersey City, and three factories for the manufacture of cameras and apparatus at Brooklyn, New York and Hoboken. This is the fore most house in America in its supply of photographic chemicals and apparatus, and in the importation of photographic supplies. They publish the well-known photographic journal, Anthony's Photographic Bulletin, edited by Profs. Charles F. Chandler of the School of Mines, Columbia College, and Arthur H. Elliott of the New- York College of Pharmacy, as well as the International A nnual, and thirty- three books on various branches of photography. The world-renowned jewelry house of Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837, by Charles L. Tiffany, its present head, mainly for the sale of Chinese fancy articles. In 1844 the importation and manufacture of jewelry was added, followed seven years later by the manufacture of silver-ware. The French Revolution of 1848 caused a great decline in the price of diamonds, and the firm then bought precious stones to the extent of its ability, and , became, and for the subsequent 40 years has remained, the leading American precious-stone house, with most skilful dia mond-cutters and lapidaries. Among other branches Tiffany & Co. manufacture plated ware, jewelry, leather goods, station ery, ivory goods, clocks and cutlery, employing 1,000 persons. The whole product is sold at retail, and at fixed prices; dealers are not supplied. The designers and makers of exquisite Tiff any jewelry and other articles are all Americans, educated and trained in this establishment. Tiffany & Co. became a corporation in 1868. Their main six-story establishment fronts on Union Square, New- York City. There is no concern in its line in Europe or America that approaches it ; it stands abso lutely beyond comparison. It is a store-house of gems and fine art goods that represent the highest skill, the most exquisite taste, and the marvelous ingenuity of all the world. It is one of the most noted sights of this country, and no one has ever seen New York who has not visited the Tiffany establishment. The first floor displays an exhibit of diamonds and precious stones that can be seen nowhere else on either continent, and a wonderful array of jewelry and silver and silver-plated ware ; the second floor, bronzes, marbles and clocks ; the third floor, pottery, china and glassware ; and the fourth, fifth and sixth floors are used for manufacturing. The silver-ware factory, on Prince Street, and the plated-ware factory, at Newark, are two of the most perfectly equipped and efficient manufacturing establish ments in the country. Tiffany & Co. received the most illustrious honors at the great Paris Exposition, where they led the world in jewelry, in silver-ware and in silver-plated ware. The Ansonia Clock Company is one of the preeminent clock manufacturers of the world ; and by reason of its marvelous output in quanti ty and quality of ingenious and elegant wares has enjoyed for many years the increasing esteem of the industry in which it is so conspicuous a factor It derives its name from a bright little BROOKLYN: ANSONIA CLOCK COMPANY. laLLOI. u uciivh .a. & NEW YORK : TIFFANY & CO. 634 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ALBANY : POST-OFFICE. Connecticut town named for Anson D. Phelps, with which it had affiliations originally; but for years its great, handsome and well-equipped brick factories have been a promi nent feature among the industries of Brooklyn. The clocks made and sold by the Ansonia Company include thousands of styles and patterns, from the little bee, and a great variety of chamber and kitchen clocks, up to the most elaborate and beautiful bronze and enamelled iron time keepers, with cathedral gongs, the modern onyx clocks, others of French marble, and richly carved hall clocks, nearly nine feet high, in tall oak or mahogany cases. The company also makes a great variety of brass and bronze clock-sets, vases, candelabra, statuettes, tableaux, and other , art objects. The Ansonia Clock Company's executive offi ces are in New- York City, and its products are sold through out the world. About 40 years ago was founded the Archer & Pancoast Manufacturing Company of New York, which stands at the head of all American manufacturers of fixtures for gas and electric lights ; separately for gas or electricity, or combined for bo^h. Even their commonest and cheapest fixtures have some pretensions to style and combination ; while their higher grades are veritable specimens of noble works of fine art, many pieces being designed by the most famous architects and artists, and executed by artisans whose skill displays rare genius. Archer & Pancoast's success has come from the production of fixtures having artistic and appropriate design and finish, whatever the uses and what ever the cost. Not only are their fixtures to be found in modest homes, but also in palatial residences like Vanderbilt's and Marquand's of New York, and Potter Palmer's of Chi cago, and also in great public edifices like the Madison-Square Garden, Manhattan Athletic Club, Equitable Life, and United-States Trust. Their national character is seen in the fact that out on the Pacific coast .their work appears in the Palace Hotel ; in Indianapolis in the wonderful Indiana State Capitol, and in Hartford in the exquisite Connecticut State Capitol. The Archer & Pancoast Company, incorporated in 1868, has a paid-up capital of $600,000, and employs 500 workmen. The factory is a fine six-story brick building, erected in 1888 and equipped with ingenious machinery. An interesting outgrowth of the modern art development of the United States is the growth of the silver-smith's art, which is making thousands of pieces of beautiful silverware, destined to become the prized heirlooms of families of the twentieth century. Prominent among the corporations carrying forward this artistic and attractive industry is the Whiting Manufacturing Company, whose works at New-York City employ 400 men in the fabrication of every article of solid silver known to the trade or used by the people. Their business was founded many years ago, and has advanced until it now employs a very large capi tal. The artistically beautiful products created by this company, and wrought out by skilled artisans, are now to be found all over the world, sometimes in forms that would have done honor to Benve- NEW YORK : ARCHER & PANCOAST MANUFACTURING COMPANY. WHITING MANUFACTURING COMPANY. NEW YORK : GORHAM MANUFACTURING COMPANY. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. uto Cellini, and always affording keen delight to artistic and appreciative spirits. None of the famous silversmiths of Eu rope can demonstrate superiority to this widely known com pany. The Whiting company has confined itself strictly to pure solid silver goods, so that its very familiar trade-mark always means the finest wares. Its factory is at Fourth Street and Lafayette Place, but its main selling establishment, whole sale and retail, is on Union Square, New-York City. The Gorham Manufacturing Company of Providence, (R. I.), has two grand warehouses at New-York City, at Broadway and Nineteenth Street and 9 Maiden Lane, where they make a rare display of silver and silver-plated ware. The very attractive sales-rooms of the Bradley & Hubbard Manufacturing Company are at 26 Park Place. While many business houses in England date back to the last century, few in America can show an existence of 136 years, like F. W. Devoe & Co. , founded by William Post, of New York, in 1755. Paints and colors, with their adjuncts of varnishes, brushes and artists' materials are manufactured by this firm in a high grade of perfection, formerly attainable only in European centres. In 1889 F. W. Devoe & Co., received at the Paris Exposition the only award, a gold medal, for fine railway varnishes. As this was in competition with all the fine varnish-makers in the world, the honor accorded to this firm for excellence of manufacture stands out in strong relief. Colors of every description are made by F. W. Devoe & Co. in a degree of purity and fineness at least equal to those of England and France. In their large brush-factory may be seen manufactured every de scription of brush, from an artist's red sable miniature to a whitewash head. A concern like this, which em ploys hundreds of men, and is managed with skill and discretion, certainly inspires confidence in the public. From 1794 to 1855 the shop was in a small wooden building at the corner of Water and Fletcher Streets. In 1852 Mr. Devoe entered the firm, which now in cludes also James F. Drummond and J. Seaver Page. The salesrooms and offices are at the corner of Fulton and William Streets, New York ; the paint-factories, at Horatio and Jane Streets ; and the varnish and Japan works, at Newark (N. J). Liszt, Wagner, Berlioz, Rubinstein and numberless other celebrated musicians and artists have borne witness to the unrivaled qualities of the Steinway pianos. They pronounce them unsurpassed in poetic and sympathetic tone, color, sonority, sustaining power, and sparkle and brilliancy of tone ; unsurpassed in the precision, elasticity and power of their action, and beyond competition in their solidity of construction, general excellence of workmanship and consequent durability. Whenever and wherever exhibited they have invariably received the highest distinction. A first-prize medal was awarded them at the London International Exhibition, in 1862. They received the first grand gold medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1867 ; the two highest awards at the Centen nial Exhibition in Philadelphia, 1876 ; and first premium and two special diplomas of merit at the Sydney International Exhibition in 1879. King Charles XV. of Sweden, in 1868, honored the Steinways by decreeing them the grand national gold medal with crown and ribbon. The Royal Academies of Arts and Sciences of Stockholm new york: steinway 4 sons. NEW YORK: F. W. 636 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. Adlcr k Snlliunn, Architects. NEW YORK : MUSIC HALL. and Berlin, also in 1868, conferred academical honors upon members of Steinway & Sons for "remarkable and excep tional improvements." The Society of Fine Arts of Paris, in 1S67, awarded them an honorary prize medal for "the excellence and the superiority of their pianos." In 1885, at the International Inven tors' Exhibition at London, they were awarded the grand gold medal for "excellence of their pianos and several meritorious and useful inven tions," and at the same time the London Society of Arts presented to them a special gold medal. In 1890 Steinway & Sons were appointed, by three separate Royal Warrants, "Piano Manu facturers to Her Majesty the Queen of England and their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales. " Steinway & Sons stand preeminently at the head of the piano industry ; and they lead the world in the value of their factory plants in New- York City, at "Stein way," Long Island, and at Hamburg, Germany, and in the universal reputation of their pianos. The rapid development of ecclesiastical art in the United States is largely due to the efforts of two brothers, young Eng lishmen, who in 1857 founded their business under the firm name of J. & R. Lamb. They were the first to formulate in the United States the idea of religious art as a specialty; and as artistic mis sionaries they have replaced the bareness and ugliness of the church interiors of those days with harmonious color and sym bolical decoration, in wood, metal, stone and marble. Their industry has been housed in the heart of old Greenwich Village, at No. 59 Carmine Street. This is now lower New York. Car mine Street is practically an extension of Sixth Avenue on the south, and the Sixth-Avenue cars continue their way down town past the door of No. 59. In their "works" they have gathered together the best art-craftsmen of the Old World; German wood workers, Swiss carvers, English workers in metal and stained glass, Italian mosaic-workers and embroiderers, and French repousse-workers and engravers. These various nationalities work harmoniously together, directed by the Lambs, and thus the designs made under American influence are executed by the best trained foreign skill. Some of the finest ex amples of altars, reredoses, rood screens, pulpits, eagle lecterns, stained-glass windows, mosaics, and mural paintings have here been created. When possible, the entire interior of the church, including the chancel and baptistery, complete in all details of furniture, color and glass, have been executed, and in this way a unity and harmony have been secured, impossible under any other method.. The house in old Carmine Street, New York, receives many visitors from all parts of the country, because it is a museum of embroideries and tapestries, carv ing, stained glass, and everything valued in religious art. As specialists in ecclesiastical art work, J. & R. Lamb stand at the head of the profession ; first in business ; first in price ; and first in patronage. The development of optical instruments is one of the most beneficent phases of modern science, and affords constant comfort to millions of people, besides , , P0RT . ER|E.CA| ,.-,, , &. R. LAMB. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 637 ROCHESTER : THE BAUSCH i. LOMB OPTICAL COMPANY. giving increasing facilities for careful scientific research. In Rochester there is a large and handsome factory, where 400 persons are employed in making microscopes and their accessories, eye-glasses and spectacle-lenses, photo graphic lenses and diaphragm shutters, telescopes and magnifiers, and other kinds of optical goods, which are sent thence to all parts of the world. This is the famous establishment of the Bausch & Lomb Optical Company, founded in 1853 by J. J. Bausch (now its president), and honored with many medals and diplomas at the world's great expositions. Their products are made by the aid of a variety of delicate and ingenious machinery, covered by specific patents, and perfectly adapted to the grinding of the glasses, the prep aration of the mountings, and other interesting processes. The company has a well- equipped branch office in New-York City. The Bausch & Lomb establishment may be considered a semi-public scientific institution, wherein the results of the most efficient scientific and mechanical experiments'and study are given to the public in the way of optical goods of a peculiarly high grade, the products ranking on an equality with the best of makers in the olden lands. As a general optical establishment it stands foremost of all in this country. Its products, while adapted to the requirements of individual use, go largely into the laboratories of the many educational institutions, where they are an important factor in the educational system, and are also used for scientific research in the various depart ments of the United-States Government. A singularly interesting industry of Troy is the manufacture of instruments for engi neers and surveyors, which was founded here by Julius Hanks, in 1825. On the site of his quaint old two-gabled building now stands the large manufactory of W. & L. E. Gurley, of Troy, devoted to the same business, and successfully conducted by two college-bred brothers, one of whom entered the Hanks establishment in 1840. The yearly product is over $200,000, far exceeding the output of any similar concern in America. There is 'not a State or Territory in which the Gurley instruments are not used ; and great numbers of them have been exported to Mexico, Cuba, South America and Canada, and to such remote countries as Egypt, Syria, Arabia, China and Japan. The engraving and graduating machinery is of exquisite delicacy and pre cision ; and platinum wire is made here of such ex ceeding fineness that a thread of it long enough to encircle the earth could be coiled inside a thimble. The work -shops in this factory are particularly worthy of mention as models in their line ; the whole being filled with ingenious machinery, admirably arranged, and the workmen bearing evidence of intelligence and TR0V : w- * L- E- gurley. masterly skill. The names of William Gurley and Lewis E. Gurley are also identified with a number of Troy's institutions. America has in various ways surpassed all other countries. One of the finest types of this supremacy is shown in the marvelous wholesale dry-goods house of the H. B. Claflin Co., of New York, whose sales for a score of years have exceeded in amount those of any other mercantile house in the whole world. In the present the sales amount to almost $50,000,000; the whole amount being exclusively in strictly wholesale dry-goods. The founder of this house was the late Horace B. Claflin, who began in New York in 1843, and died in 1885, leaving an unblemished record for business integrity and ability. The capital stock of the company is $9,000,000; the subscription to which, in 1890, was one of the most marked evidences of esteem, there being over $21,000,000 subscribed for the 638 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. CLAFLIN COMPANY. $3,000,000 offered to the public. The premises occupied comprise one of the largest business houses in the country, and are valued at upwards of $2,000,000. When they were built, they surpassed every building erected for the wholesale dry-goods trade, and to-day they fairly rival all that have since been built ; the frontage on Worth Street alone being 375 feet. The estimated net profits of the business are about $1,000,000 a year. The active head of this gigantic concern is the founder's eldest son, John Claflin, who holds the office of President of the company. The commercial importance of the fur-trade to New- York City has steadily increased since early in the present century, when the industry was founded by such pioneers as John Jacob Astor, Carson Brevoort, Ramsay Crooks, Christian G. Gunther and John G. Wendel. As far back as 1820 Christian G. Gunther founded, in Maiden Lane, New- York City, the business now carried on under the name of C. G. Gunther's Sons, which was for years a notable landmark, and which now, after a lapse of nearly three quarters of a century, is one of the monuments of the city's commercial enterprise and success. The sign of the "White Polar Bear, " so familiar to many old New-Yorkers, and famous in itself as the work of Launitz, the first American sculptor, was moved from the old Maiden-Lane stand in 1866 to 502 and 504 Broadway, and again in 1876 to 184 Fifth Avenue, the present location of the firm. The business has been carried on in a direct line of succession, and is now in the hands of the third generation, the grandsons of the founder. The house stands foremost in the trade, not only as the oldest of its kind in the United States, but in the volume of business transacted. Its patrons include the leading people, not only of New-York City, but of every |m j; F.i , | i section of the country where furs are in vogue, and they never fail to \ find at the handsome warerooms of this establishment an incomparable assortment of manufactured furs, in most instances the original concep tions of this leading house, and invariably designed to conform to the latest decrees of fashion. The crown and culmination of a gentleman's apparel is his hat ; and the originator and leader of styles in this country is the firm of R. Dunlap & Co., whose main retail store is at 178-180 Fifth Avenue, close to the Fifth-Avenue Hotel, with an elegant store at 181 Broadway, and an enormous hat factory in Brooklyn. Robert Dunlap founded this busi ness in 1857, and is the only partner. The Dunlap products have won medals at the Philadelphia, Paris and other expositions, and in clude a full and complete line of silk, felt, straw and opera hats for gentlemen, all of the finest grades and latest styles, besides a variety of jaunty and fashionable hats for ladies. The factory at Brook lyn employs 700 persons, their yearly pay-roll reaching $500,000, and is the most complete estab lishment of its kind in this country. It also main tains large retail stores in Philadelphia and Chica go, and has agents in all the other principal cities. A "Dunlap hat" is a standard staple commodity, and is to be found in every town in the United States where a respectable hat store is kept. NEW YORK: C. G. GUNTHER'S SONS. DUNLAP & CO. COHOES : TIVOLI HOSIERY MILLS. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 639 The busy city of Cohoes, on the Mohawk River, near its confluence with the Hudson, turns out over $10,000,000 worth of manufac tured goods every year ; and Cohoes is famous for the greatest output of hosiery and underwear, the larger part of the city's industry being de voted to this line. In 1855 a factory for making underwear was founded here by J. G. Root, who admitted his sons A. J. and S. G. Root to partnership, in i860, and afterwards retired himself. The business was incorporated in 1875 as the Root Manufacturing Co., of which A. J. Root is president. It owns and oc cupies the three four-story brick buildings known as the Tivoli Hosiery Mills, admirably equipped with all kinds of modern machinery, and employing 550 operatives. The Root Manufacturing Co. manufactures extensively the famous "Standard" knit underwear, mak ing a specialty of ladies', gentlemen's, boys' and children's fine white-wool, scarlet, camels' hair, natural and white merino underwear, which is unrivalled for quality, finish, durability and uniform excellence, and has no superior in the European or American markets, while the prices quoted in all cases necessarily attract the attention of prudent and careful buyers. The resources and facilities of the company are so complete and extensive, that the largest orders can be promptly filled, an advantage that the trade is quick to appreciate. The trade extends throughout all sections of the United States and Canada, and is speedily increasing, owing to the superiority and reliability of its standard knit underwear. The influence exercised by this company in the manufacture of underwear has been of the most salutary and useful character. While the corporation is the Root Manufacturing Company, the mills are almost universally known as the "Tivoli Hosiery Mills." New York has naturally the commanding position as a distributing point for all manner of head-coverings for the 65,000,000 of American people, and there, too, as a natural outcome of this position has developed the one great house — C. H. Tenney & Company — that leads the world in the handling of hats. In 1867 Charles H. Tenney founded the house, as commission-merchants in fur, wool and straw hats, and he (being still the only partner) handles the product of 40 manufacturers of New England and the Middle States. This group of factories employs 5,000 persons and their yearly products exceed $5,000,000 in value. The Tenney establish ment at 610-614 Broadway has nearly three acres of floor ing, and is the largest of the kind in the world. The trade centering here reaches the remotest parts of the Republic, supplying hats of all kinds, for all seasons and uses. The wholesale grocery house of the Thurber-Whyland Company was established in New- York City, in 1857, by H. K. Thurber and John F. Pupke, and, after several changes in the personnel of the partners constituting the house, it was incorporated under the above title,. January 3, 1 89 1, with a capital of $3,000,000. It does the largest business in food products in the world, comprising every thing that is eaten or drunk. Its trade extends throughout the United States and to every civilized country of the new york : c. h. tenney a co. world, a result which has been attained by the reliable NEW YORK ; MASONIC TEMPLE. 640 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. NEW YORK : THURBER-WHYLAND CO. quality of the goods manufactured and dealt in, and by honor able dealing. The incorporation of the Thurber-Whyland Company is in keeping with an apparent tendency of the times for all large establishments to assume a corporate form, as being preferable to individual partnerships, which are subject to frequent changes through death and other causes. One of the most important industries located on the Brook lyn water-front of New-York harbor is the extensive roasting es tablishment of Arbuckle Bros. Coffee Company. Their large factories form one of the familiar sights from the Brooklyn Bridge, and illustrate the great demand for the Arbuckle coffee. Thousands of car-loads of this coffee are annually shipped all over this great country, and the demand and popularity of the article are still constantly in creasing, and taxing even the exceptional facilities which the Arbuckles have for handling their product. Almost any day you may see large ocean steamships unloading at their docks cargoes of green coffee, imported direct through their branch houses or agents established in the coffee-growing countries of the world. Across the same dock you may see trains of freight cars, on floats, being loaded with cases of coffee brought to them from the mills by machinery.' The mills themselves are, by far, the largest in the world, and are thoroughly equipped with all the latest improvements and machinery for properly and economically doing their work. The Arbuckles have always stood for purity in coffees. They started out with this idea, and have always rigidly adhered to it, and now see the reward in the largest coffee business in the world. The firm of John Dwight & Co., of New York, which began business and the manufacture of bi-carbonate of soda and saleratus in 1847, was the result of the belief that these products could be manufactured better by improved original methods than was then being done in Eng land, where the entire supply for this country was at that time obtained. The results of the experiments then tried, proved eminently satisfactory, and the birth, in America, of a new industry was an accomplished fact. From a very small beginning, the business has grown, until the factory and its appurtenances cover 3^ acres of ground, in the heart of the city of New York. The firm attributes its success principally to the superior quality of the products of its manufacture. It has been their constant endeavor to make the Cow brand of soda and saleratus preeminent. The magnitude of the business done, and the character of the trade supplied, will bear ample testimony to what degree of success they have attained, the goods of John Dwight & Co. being found everywhere from Maine to California, in general and favorite use among the households of America. The name of E. R. Durkee & Co. has become synonymous with reliable food products, fine spices, salad dressing and kindred appetizing condiments, throughout the United States. This unique in dustry was founded in 1850 by E. R. Durkee, and it has developed into the largest business of its kind in this country. The house employs several hun dred hands, and has its office, laboratory and warehouses in New York, with extensive ware- new york : john dwight a co, BROOKLYN : ARBUCKLE BROS. COFFEE CO. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 641 houses and mills in Brooklyn, fully equipped with all the latest improved machinery and appliances necessary for the successful prosecution of their business. They import large quantities of whole spices, cereals, etc., from all parts of the globe, which (ground and un- ground) are put up by ingenious and private methods, invented and controlled by the firm, in sealed packets of very attractive style and convenient sizes. Their dressings for salads and cold meats are made in great quantities. by careful processes "Gauntlet Brands " of etc., have not only be st and a rds of excel- jobbing and retail gro- York City, near the one of America's most NEW YORK : . DURKEE & CO. under their personal supervision ; and their salad dressing, mustards, spices, extracts, come famous, but are the acknowledged lence, and may be found in every first-class eery in the United States and Canada. Just west of the business-heart of New- river-front, is the great factory of Sapolio, famous products ; a fame built up by rare enterprise. Sapolio, in its silver wrapper and blue band, is seen in almost every household. It has saved to the toilers of the world an amount of labor beyond all computation, has gained a substantial foothold among the masses of the people of all civilized countries, and brought renown and wealth to its proprietors, the well-known house of Enoch Morgan's Sons Co. The business was established originally as soap and candle manufacturers in 1809, by the family of Enoch Morgan. In 1869 Sapolio was first introduced, and in no country has there ever been produced an article for general house-cleaning purposes that has met with anything like its success, a part of which is due to its exceptionally able advertising, the cost of which in a single year has amounted to over $300,000. Like all successful productions, Sap olio has had many imitations, but it has maintained its rights in the courts with a courage that not only deserved, but secured, success, and its trade-mark cases are quoted as precedents in almost every suit against infringers of trade-mark rights. Rochester has a world-wide fame for its nurseries and seed- houses, sending out trees and plants by the million, and a limit less quantity and endless variety of seeds, 5,000 people being en gaged in this work. James Vick is known all over America and Europe as the most successful and progressive man who has ever devoted his life to the cultivation and improvement of Vick was a printer, who spent his leisure hours in his beautiful garden, and thus awakened an interest in flowers and their habits, which led him to open an extended correspondence with botanists and florists, and to write much for horticultural works. From 1855 until his death, in 1882, he extended his outdoor operations, and owned 160 acres of land, with many greenhouses for delicate roots and bulbs, besides the seed- warehouse, opened in 1880, and without doubt at that time the largest and most perfect establish ment of the kind. He also published three floral magazines, ably edited and finely illustrated, and with a large circulation among farmers and lovers of flowers. "James Vick, Seedsman" is an incor porated company, whereof the sons of the founder are the officers ; and the business broadens its area every year. Rochester : james vick, seedsman. NEW YORK : ENOCH MORGAN'S SONS CO. flowers and vegetables. 642 RING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. ROCHESTER : THE JAMES CUNNINGHAM, SON & CO. The largest manufactory of exclusively fine vehicles, comprising landaus, broughams, coupes, victorias, Berlin coaches, and others, and mortuary vehicles, consisting of hearses and wagons, in the country, is the James Cunningham, Son & Co. Their work is all done at the huge factories of the company, in all its detail. The styles are the very latest, and the workmen are experienced operators. The Cunningham vehicles are very widely known, and distributed through their branch offices at New York, Chicago and St. Louis. The business has been carried on for a period of over 50 years by James Cunningham and his son. About eight years ago the firm was converted into a stock company, with a capital of $803,000, to which is added a surplus of an equal amount, and, although nominally a great stock corporation, with more than a million and a half invested, and doing business over the whole Union, it is nevertheless practically a great family partnership of an ex ceptionally successful character. The works are located at Rochester, and are very large and extensive brick buildings, five, six and seven stories high. There are 600 men employed the whole year round. The specialty of the company is high-grade vehicles. The bright and active city of Syracuse has numerous lucrative successful industrial enterprises, one of the strongest and oldest of which is the Syracuse branch of the Whitman & Barnes Manufacturing Co. The spacious and handsome factory covers a square of ground, and is thoroughly equipped with all the complicated, powerful and ingenious ma chinery necessary for the conduct of the work. Prominent among its output is an almost infinite variety of mower-knives and reaper sickles, whose excellence is known to the farmers of many States. The company also manufactures spring-keys, and many other articles of similar character. Besides the Syracuse fac tory, it has works at Akron and Canton (Ohio), and St. Catherine's (Ontario). The president of the company is Hon. A. L. Conger; and George Barnes is chairman. Kitchen-ware is now of so varied a description that many pages would be required to properly de scribe it. Back 200 years, earthen-ware was made in New York. To glaze this the most primitive methods were adopted. After earthen-ware came porcelain, and that has been the housewife's pride for a long time back. Great care, however, had to be taken of the porcelain-lined kettles, and their liability to crack made them a source of anx iety to the housewife. Manufacturers and dealers began to look about for a substitute. This was finally arrived at in the advent of stamped metal ware. Sheet metal was pounded and stamped by dies of great power into kettles, pots and pans. As there was a complaint that these tasted "tinny," and would rust and get easily bruised, the popular favor sought better wares, and perfection was found in the "Agate Iron Ware." The Lalance & Gros- jean Company was one of the five great companies that consolidated the tinware departments into the Central Stamping Company, and it is thus enabled to devote itself exclusively to the "agate iron wares," which is a stamped iron with a porcelain like coating, in high glaze, and decorated in imita tion of marble or stone. By this means, with iron as a base, the ware is durable, non-dentable, un breakable and inexpensive ; and by reason of the SYRACUSE : WHITMAN & BARNES CO. WOODHAVEN : LALANCE &. GROSJEAN MFG. CO. THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 643 handsome and always polished finish is a thing of beauty and cleanliness. This was manu factured by the Lalance & Grosjean Manufacturing Co., a company operated at Woodhaven, N. Y., with $2,500,000 capital. This company were one of the pioneers in stamped ware, having begun its manufacture in 1850. Their plant covers 15 acres, and they give employ ment to 1,500 hands. They have received awards at expositions all over the world, and in the line of stamped ware and agate ware rank pre-eminent. Until 1853 the work of harvesting grain was done by hand. It was a slow and waste ful way. At that time Walter A. Wood, an ingenious young mechanic, began experiment ing with harvesting machines. It was then an open question if such machines were practical ; but his bold pioneer work has resulted in the Walter A. Wood Mowing & Reap ing Machine Co., one of the largest in the world. He is its active president. The com pany has 40 offices, eight of them in Europe, four in South America, five in Australia. The plant at Hoosick Falls, N. Y., covers 85 acres, including freight-houses and tracks. The company owns and operates two locomotives and a large number of cars on its own premises. In their employ are many thousand people. Their specialty is the manufacture of machines for mowing hay and for reaping and binding grain. During the company's career over 850,000 of them have been sold. They have taken twelve highest prizes at International expositions, and over 1,250 first premiums at State fairs and field contests. The machines are used in all civilized regions, except Asia ; and even there they have a foothold. The Wal ter A. Wood Mowing & Reaping Machine Co. is one of the gigantic industries of America. HOOSICK FALLS : WALTER A. WOOD MOWING & REAPING MACHINE CO. The manufacturing establishment of Pratt & Letch worth, organized in the year 1848, is one of the notable institutions of the city of Buffalo. It is, indeed, one of the notable in dustries of the whole State of New York. It was the first house to manufacture a complete line of carriage malleable iron. Commencing first in importing saddlery hardware from England, it gradually developed into manufacturing the same articles itself, giving close at tention to the special and patented articles, of which it has introduced, in the way of valuable patents, more than any other saddlery hard ware concern in the country. The company employs over 1, 100 people in the manufacture of malleable iron, steel castings, saddlery hard ware, wood hames and iron toys. Of these combined lines it is the largest manufactory in the country, with a trade extending from the buffalo : pratt i letchworth. 644 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. TROY : THE FULLER & WARREN CO. Atlantic to the Pacific, and an extensive export trade to South America and Australia, and to a limited extent to the Continent of Europe. An interesting feature in connection with the house is, that during its entire history it has never had any trouble whatever with its em ployes in the shape of strikes and lockouts. It has a free library for the use of its employes. The group of factory buildings form a picturesque industrial establishment, where solidity, neatness, admirable arrangement and complete equipment are everywhere noticeable. Stove-making is one of the chief industries of the region t^^^a^SStroSS2*' of Troy and Albany, whose El28^I2!?8S£3?f! products are exported to Eu rope, Australia, South and Cen tral America and Mexico in vast quantities. The business began at Troy in 1821, and the value of the stoves made there yearly is nearly $3,000,- 000. The chief firm is the Ful ler & Warren Co., whose Clin ton Stove Works, comprising a group of fine brick buildings, cover six acres and employ 1,200 men, with a yearly out-put of 60,000 stoves. They occupy the same ground taken at the foundation of the firm, in 1836. From their six large American agencies, the pro ducts of these works are distributed to all parts of the United States ; and extensive shipments are continually made to distant countries. No work of the kind surpasses theirs in scientific excellence of construction, beauty of design and perfection of casting, results due to the enterprise of the manufacturers and the disciplined skill of the operatives. The unap proachable merit of their castings and designs has made Fuller & Warren familiar wherever stoves are needed to cook the food of civilized man, or to shield him from the rigors of winter. The New York Anderson Pressed Brick Company was organized in 1887 to manufacture ,„... .„.„_„ -..„,.-. the well-known Anderson pressed, face, shape s: '''''-IJpSfTO toto- and ornamental brick, under a license from J. C. Anderson, patentee, for the States of Con necticut and New Jersey, and that part of the State of New York lying east of the meridian of Washington, D. C. Their immense works, of which the engraving will give an idea, are located at Kreischerville, Staten Island, on the shore of Staten-Island Sound. The product STATEN ISLAND : NEW-YORK ANDERSON PRESSED BRICK CO. ^r ,1 ¦ m„ . . ¦ j ., , . . of this company has achieved the highest reputation in New York for uniform excellence and beauty. Their buffs, grays, garnet, old gold, mottled, brown, red, rock-faced, etc., are largely used in the best class of buildings in New York, Brooklyn and other eastern cities. The company are the owners of beds of the rarest varieties of clay in this country, which en ables them to meet the most artistic requirements, a fact the New-York architects were not slow in discov ering. Mr. Anderson's now celebrated system of burn ing on cars was first put into practical use by this com pany. Their office is at 132 Mangin Street, New York. The American Biscuit and Manufacturing Com pany has a very large plant at New York. Here, also, is the headquarters of Belding Bros. & Co., the silk manufacturers, who have large and prosperous mills in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Michigan and California. new york ; American biscuit and mfg. co. HISTORY. The earliest inhabitants j of North Carolina were the Mound-Builders, dwelling in the deep valley between the Blue Ridge and the Alle ghanies. They were annihi lated by the fierce Muscogees, | who, in turn, gave way, after ' an exterminating war, to the Cherokees. This great tribe, with its 60 towns and 6,000 warriors, joined the British in fighting the French, and afterwards in harassing the American colonists. After many a wild foray, they were confined to the valleys southwest of the Balsam Mountains. In 1835 a part of the tribe sold its Carolina domain, and moved beyond the Missis sippi. Many Cherokees remained hidden amid their native mountains ; and four companies of them enlisted in the Con federate army, while others joined the Union Tennessee regi ments. About 1 , 200 now dwell on the Qualla Reserve, south of the Balsam Range, forming a scattered community of farmers, educated in English as well as Cherokee, and governed by a salaried chief (elected every four years), and a council, whose seat is at Elawati (Yellow Hill). No one can hold office who has helped defraud the tribe, or denies the existence of God, or disbelieves in Heaven and Hell. This Eastern band of Cherokees numbers 2,885, mainly full-bloods. They have five day-schools, and a training- school conducted by Friends. They also enjoy the privilege of voting, and are Republican almost to a man. The Tocheeostee ("Racing River") of the Cherokees became known as the French Broad. Swannanoa perpetuates the sound of its multitudinous ravens' wings ; Tuckasegee, the terrapins of its valley ponds ; Nantahala, the noon-day sun, lighting its dark glens ; and Cullasaja, the sweet waters. In the closing hours of the 15th century, six years after Columbus discovered America, Sebastian Cabot cruised southward nearly to Albemarle Sound; and in 1524, Verrazano sighted Cape Fear. The renowned Sir Walter Ralegh, Queen Elizabeth's favorite and King STATISTICS. Settled at . . . Roanoke Island. Settled in 1585 Founded by ... . Engl shmen. One of the original 13 States Population in i860, . . In 1870, . . 992,622 ,071,361 In 1880, . . ,399, 750 White, . 867,242 Colored, ... 532, 508 American-born, ,396,008 Foreign-born, . 3,742 Males, . ... 687,908 711,842 In 1890 (U. S. Census), i ,617,340 Population to the square mil e, 28.8 Voting Population, . . 294.75° Vote for Harrison (1888), 134.784 Vote for Cleveland (1888), 147,902 Net State Debt, . $7,538,567.79 Real Property, . $122,000,000 Personal Property, $81,000,000 Area (square miles), . U. S. Representatives, 52,250 9 Militia (disciplined), . 1,485 Counties, . 96 Post-offices, . . 2,556 Railroads (miles), . 2,654 Vessels, 370 13,205 Manufactures (yearly), $20,084,237 Operatives, 18,109 >, 740, 768 Yearly Wages, ... $ Farm Land (in acres), 22,639,644 Farm-Land Values, $13^,793.602 Farm Products (yearlv), $5 ,729,611 Public Schools, Average Daily Attendance, . 208,657 Newspapers, 192 Latitude, . . 33°5o' to ^ 5°33' N, Longitude, . . 75°27/ to 84°2o' W. Temperature, . . . — 5° to 107° Mean Temperature (Raleigh ), 59° TE» CHIEF CITIES AND THEIR POP ULATIONS. Wilmington, 20,008 Raleigh, . . 12,798 Charlotte, ".555 Asheville, 10,433 Winston, 7,988 7,832 New Berne, Goldsboro, . 6,3254,436 Salisbury, . . . Fayetteville, . . 4,220 Washington, 3,539 64.6 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. MOREHEAD CITY t HOTEL, AND TEACHERS' ASSEMBLY. James's victim, received in 1584 a charter designed to foster the colonization of America by Englishmen, and sent out various expeditions to this end. In 1585 the first English colony in all America entered North Caro lina, settling on Roanoke Island. For a year 108 im migrants languished here, getting into such straits for food that they killed their mastiffs, and ate "Dogges' porridge. '' They gladly went back to England, in Sir Francis Drake's fleet, much fearing the hostile Indians, who destroyed a subsequent colony of Ralegh's, root and branch. The Roanoke men first bore back to Eng land the custom of smoking tobacco, learned from the North-Carolina natives. In the last ill-fated colony on the island was born Virginia Dare, the first white native American. The second Ralegh colony appears to have been absorbed by the Croatan Indians, and a settle ment of 2,000 people in Robeson County, claiming descent from the Indians, are also descendants of the " Lost Colony." Secretary Povey, of Virginia, explored the Chowan country in 1623 ; and 30 years later Roger Green led a colony from the Nansemond to the Roanoke region. The next per manent settlers established themselves between Albemarle and Currituck Sounds, and lived almost as hermits, widely separated from each other. They were mostly Friends, and bought their land from Cistacanoe, the chief of the local Indians. Half of the population of North Carolina 70 years later were Friends. The first timothy grass came from Durant's Neck, in this cradle of North Carolina, where it grows wild. Timothy, a Friend, sent seeds of it to England, where the new forage-plant received his name. In 1663 Charles II. granted the entire continent south of Virginia to 310 and west to the Pacific Ocean to eight lords-proprietors, who formed a liberal government, gave land freely to settlers (for quit-rents), made taxation an affair of the local legislature, and decreed full religious liberty. The latter novelty caused many Dissenters to settle here, coming especially from tithe-ridden Virginia. The complicated and cumbrous Fundamental Con stitutions were drawn up in 1670, by John Locke, the philosopher, for the colony, but strongly resisted by the people and finally abandoned. Immigrants from Bermuda, Bar- badoes and New England came to Albemarle (as the province was then called) ; the armed rebellion of the deposed Gov. Cary yielded to regular troops from Virginia ; and the moun taineers defeated the savage Tuscarora Indians, and drove them to New York. In 1728, when North Carolina had 15,000 inhabitants, the King bought out seven of the lords-pro prietors, South Carolina having much earlier cast off its allegiance to the proprietors, and become a Royal Province. Prior to 1 746 considerable numbers of Scotch Highlanders settled in North Carolina ; and between 1746 and 1776, many more, implicated in the rebel lion of Prince Charles, were transported to America, and occupied the counties along and southwest of Cape-Fear River. About 3,000 Scotch-Irish people also left Ulster, and sought religious freedom in western Carolina. In 17 12 a large colony of Swiss and Germans, under Baron de Graffenreid, settled along the Neuse and Trent Rivers, naming their chief town New Berne. The Moravians also bought 100,000 acres north of the Yadkin River, and built Salem as their chief town. Many Virginians and Pennsylvanians migrated here, with Germans and Dutch, Swiss and French men. They came because North Carolina was a free country, and they kept it so. Tyrannical governors were deposed, church-rates refused, and extortionate crown-officers beaten. In 1 771 many of LINVILLE RIVER. THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 647 IN THE BLUE RIDGE. the people of Orange and the other western coun ties rose against taxation and other oppressions, calling themselves Regulators. Gov. Tryon de feated 2,000 of them in the battle of Alamance, where 100 men were killed and wounded. In May, 1775, the people of Mecklenburg declared their county independent of Britain. February 27, 1776, Cornwallis and Clinton lay with 100 ves sels and seven regiments in the lower Cape-Fear River, but the local militia defeated 1 , 500 High landers marching to join the British' force, at the battle of Moore's-Creek Bridge, and 8,00c patriots collecting on the Cape-Fear River, the British sailed away to Charleston. . Meanwhile, many North-Carolinians had crossed the Alleghanies, founding the first settlements of Tennessee. Six regiments of these pio neers and of North-Carolina troops assembled at the Cowpens, in 1780, and after a perilous night-march, shattered Ferguson's British and Tory army on King's Mountain (S. C). Bancroft says that this victory ' ' changed the aspect of the war. The appearance of a numerous enemy from settlements beyond the mountains, whose very names had been unknown to the British, took Cornwallis by surprise." The splendid British cavalry of Col. Tarleton kept the Carolinas in continual alarm, until January, 1781, when Lieut. -Col. Washington inflicted a crushing defeat upon this force, at the Cowpens. In 1781 Gen. Greene made a. masterly retreat of 200 miles into Virginia, hotly pursued by Lord Cornwallis. Returning to Guilford Court House, he was defeated there by a British force, but the victory cost the Royalists 600 men, and they retreated hastily to Wilmington, and thence to Virginia. When the Secession War broke out, North Carolina remained true to the Union until all the surrounding States had seceded. When President Lincoln called on her to furnish her quota of troops for the Federal army, she promptly took sides with the South. The forts at Wilmington and Beaufort, the Charlotte Mint and the Fayetteville Arsenal had already been seized. In the struggle that ensued, the Old North State sent out more troops and lost more than any other in the South. Her levies included 89,344 volunteers, 18,583 conscripts, and 19,000 reserves and militiamen, embodied in 62 regiments and 15 battalions of infantry, six of cavalry and three of artillery. Over 50,000 of these troops died in the service, or were wounded in battle. Three months after the secession, Gen. Butler and Com. Stringham bombarded and took Forts Hatteras and Clark, commanding the entrance to Pamlico Sound. In February, 1862, Burnside and Goldsborough, with 16,000 troops and 100 ships, captured the six forts on Roanoke Island, with 40 guns and 2,000 men. Within a few weeks, the National forces occupied Edenton, Win- ton, Elizabeth City, New Berne, Morehead City, Beau fort, Washington, and Plymouth. Blockade-running flourished at Wilmington, where in a single year 300 steamships ran the gauntlet, with over 100,000 bales of cotton. In 1864, Admiral Porter and Gen. Butler failed in an attack on Fort Fisher, at the mouth of the river ; but Porter and Terry stormed this fort ress early in 1865, with a loss of 700 men. Soon afterward Schofield and the 23d Corps occupied Wil mington and Goldsborough. In March, 1865, Sherman's great National army entered North Carolina, on its way towards Richmond, fighting with Hardee at Averysborough, and HICKORY-NUT GAP: CHIMNEY ROCK. . DEEP-WATER BRIDGE. LINVILLE GORGE. 648 KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. defeating Gen. Johnston's 26,600 Confederates at Bentonville, where 4,000 men were killed or wounded. Then the victors joined Schofield at Goldsborough. Meanwhile, Stoneman and the Fourth Corps had swept across from Nashville to Salisbury. April 13, 1865, Sherman marched into Raleigh, with the armies of the Ohio, the Cumberland and the Tennessee, Johnston's Con federates retreating toward Charlotte. The Union commander invited Gov. Vance and the civil officers of the State to return to their capital ; and on the 26th Gen. Johnston, at Durham, sur rendered to him the 36,817 Confederate soldiers of his army. The war left North Carolina bankrupt and prostrate, but in the subsequent years she has made marvellous advances in popula tion, cultivated lands, improved farming methods, length of rail ways, and diversified industries. The Name, Arx Carolina, was given by the Huguenot colon ists under Ribault and Laudonniere, landing south of Beaufort in 1562, to their little fortress, in honor of King Charles IX. of France; and this title gradu ally became attached to the country. In 1629, King Charles I. granted territory south of the Chesapeake to Sir Robert Heath, and named it after himself, Carolana. When the new char ter of 1663 was given, by Charles II., this name became Carolina. There appears to be a just doubt as to which of these three kings the State was named for. The popular pet name is The Old North State, referring to its place in the Carolinas. During the Civil War its people were called Tar Heels, in allusion to the prevailing tar industry of the lowland forests. The Arms of North Carolina bear two robed female figures, Liberty and Ceres, the one with a wand and Phrygian cap, the other with a great horn of plenty, filled with the fruits of the earth. For 40 years the State troops have borne blue silken flags with this device on many a deadly field of battle. The Governors of the State have been : Alex. Martin, 1789-92 ; Richard D. Spaight, 1792-5; Samuel Ashe, 1795-8; William R. Davie, 1798-9; Benjamin Williams, 1799- 1802; James Turner, 1802-5; Nathaniel Alexander, 1805-7; Benjamin Williams, 1807-8; David Stone, 1808-10 ; Benjamin Smith, 1810-n ; William Hawkins, 1811-14; William Miller, 1814-17 ; John Branch, 1817-20; Jesse Franklin, 1820-1 ; Gabriel Holmes, 1821-4; Hutchings G. Burton, 1824-7; James Iredell, 1827-8; John Owen, 1828-30; Montford Stokes, 1830-2 ; David L. Swain, 1832-5 ; Richard D. Spaight, 1835-7 > Edward B. Dudley, 1837-41; John M. Morehead, 1841-5 ; William A. Graham, 1845-9/; Charles Manly, 1849-51; David S. Reid, 1851-55; Thomas Bragg, 1855-59; J°hn W. Ellis, 1859-61 ; Z. B. Vance, 1861-5; William W. Holden (provisional), 1865; Jonathan Worth, 1865-9; William W. Holden, 1869-71; Tod R. Caldwell, 1871-4; Curtis H. Brogden, 1874-7; Zebulon B. Vance, 1877-9 , Thomas J. Jarvis, 1879-85 ; Alfred M. Scales, 1885-9 > and Daniel G. Fowle, 1889-93. Descriptive.— On its seaward front of 400 miles North Carolina is lined with long islands of sand, from half a mile to two miles wide, with dangerous angles at Cape Lookout and Cape Hatteras, and great shoals extending leagues out into the ocean, and through the sounds behind. Inside these sand-dunes open the broad sounds, Pamlico, 80 miles long by from ten to 30 miles wide, and 20 feet deep ; Albemarle, 60 miles long by from four to 15 miles wide, with water nearly fresh ; and Currituck, 50 miles long by from two to ten miles wide. Inland for 50 miles the country is low, and broken by swamps, lakes and inlets, and the broad estuaries of sluggish rivers. Currituck and Albemarle Sounds have no seaward openings, but discharge into Pamlico Sound, from which Oregon, Hatteras and Ocracoke WILMINGTON : POST-OFFICE. THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 649 "^W\\m BLUE RIDGE : ROUND KNOB. Inlets connect with the Atlantic. The Little Dismal Swamp, or Alligator Swamp, between Albemarle and Pam lico Sounds, the Great Dismal Swamp, and others cover 3,000,000 acres, with soil of remarkable richness, raising great crops when drained and reclaimed. The Dismal- Swamp Canal opens inland communication between Albe marle Sound and Chesapeake Bay. The chief harbors are at Wilmington, New Berne, Beaufort and Edenton. The Cape-Fear River, 300 miles long, is ascended by large vessels 34 miles, to Wilmington, and by sloops 1 20 miles, to Fay etteville. The Roanoke flows 250 miles, and may be ascended 120 miles, to Halifax. The continuous Pamlico and Tar Rivers give navigation for 95 miles, to Tarborough. The Neuse affords passage for boats for 120 miles, to near Goldsborough. The Chowan has 75 miles of navigable current. The Yadkin and Catawba find the sea through South Carolina ; and the rivers beyond the Blue Ridge enter the Tennessee and Mississippi. The fisheries are of increasing value, and hatcheries have been established for rock-fish, herring and shad. Over 1 00, 000 barrels of fish are caught yearly, including mullet and blue- fish. The oyster-beds in the sounds have recently been mapped by Lieut. Winslow, U. S. N. A thousand North-Carolinians are engaged in oystering, securing 1 70,000 bushels yearly. The sand-bars between Pamlico Sound and the sea are ranged by hundreds of "bankers," or wild ponies, cast ashore from a wreck in the last century, and multiplying in freedom. Wild fowl abound around Pamlico and Albemarle. Nearly half of the 20,000 square miles of the lowlands lies in the shore-belt, and the rest grows more hilly as it approaches the west. Farther inland comes the middle region, 20,000 square miles of hills and uplands, with the long curving water-sheds of the rivers, and their wide valleys. Farther west lies the Piedmont plateau, from 60 to 75 miles wide, with frequent mountain-spurs, and cut by the valleys of the Yad kin, Catawba and Broad Rivers. The Blue Ridge springs up from the Piedmont region, traversing the entire State, northeast and southwest, with a ragged and broken escarpment facing the east, and gentler western slopes, robed with heavy forests. The mountain land, in the extreme west, includes the huge Blue Ridge on the east, and on the west the Alle ghany ("Endless") Mountains, mainly included in the Great Smoky Range, whose con tinuations along the border are the Unaka, Bald, Iron and Stone Ranges. This noble mountain-chain is cut deep by the gorges of the westward-flowing rivers, the Little Ten nessee, French Broad, and others. In the Smokies are 23 of North Carolina's 57 peaks above 6,000 feet high, including Clingman's Dome (6,660 feet), Mount Guyot (Bullhead), 6,636 ; and Mount Love, 6,443. In these ranges and the connecting cross-chains occur the loftiest peaks in the Atlantic States. The trough between the Blue Ridge and the Alleghanies is 200 miles long, and from 15 to 50 miles wide, covering 6,000 square miles. In the north, Yellow -Mountain stretches across it, from the Grandfather, the highest Blue-Ridge peak (5,897 feet) to Roan (6,306 feet), in the Smokies, with the high plateau of Watauga on the north, and on the south a vast valley, in whose purple mists lie 13 counties. Southwest of Yellow, beyond this deep Nolechucky Valley, Black Mountain crosses the trough for 20 miles, with 18 THE FRE^H BR AT «heville. PAINT ROCK. 6s o KING'S HANDBOOK OF THE UNITED STATES. peaks above. 6,000 feet high, including Mount Mitchell, the sovereign summit east of the Rocky Mountains, 6,711 feet above the sea. This lonely crest is hallowed by the grave of Prof. Elisha Mitchell, of the University of North Carolina, who lost his life here, in 1857, while engaged in measur ing the mountain height. A bronze monument was erected over it in 1888. In this sierra are Balsam Cone, 6,671 feet high; Potato Top, 6,393; an