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YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

IN MEMORY OF SAMUEL AMOS YORK
YALE 1863
FROM THE FUND ESTABLISHED IN 1924
BY HIS SON SAMUEL ALBERT YORK

YALE 1890

AUSTKALIA

NOTES BY THE WAY

A©
A. A,A
iN

AUSTRALIA;

?

NOTES BY THE WAY,
ON
EGYPT, CEYLON, BOMBAY,
AND
THE HOLY LAND.

BY
FREDERICK J. JOBSON, D.D.

LONDON :
HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.
i
SOLD ALSO BY JOHN MASON.
1862.

LONDON:
PRINTEp BY WTLLIAM NICHOLS,
32, LONDON WALL.

JOHN ROBINSON KAY, ESQ., J. P.

A PATRIOTIC PROMOTER

BRITISH COLONIZATION,

A GENEROUS CONTRIBUTOR

CHRISTIAN MISSIONS:

THIS VOLUME

9 timWb,

SENTIMENTS OF

ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP.

CONTENTS.

VOYAGE OUT.

CHAPTER I. PAGE
Inteoduction — Voyage from Southampton to Gibraltar
—"The Rock"— The Town— The Market— The
Mediterranean — Malta — The Harbour of Alexandria 3

CHAPTEE II.
Egypt — Alexandria — Eailway, and View of the Country —
Land of Goshen — Cairo and its Wonders — The
Suburbs — Ancient Christian Eemains — The Nilometer
— The Pasha's Naval Architect, and his Methodist
Eecollections— The " Petrified Eorest " and " Tombs
of the Caliphs " — Dervish Worship — Heliopolis —
Nile Boat and Voyage — The Pyramids and the
Sphynx — The Pasha's Palace and his Soldiers — Tombs
of the Mamelukes and of Mehemet Ali — Moslem
Worship — View of Cairo from the Citadel — Departure
— The Desert Eailway — Suez, and Embarkation on
the Eed Sea . . . . .21

Till CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE III. PAGE
Passage down the Eed Sea — Aden — Monsoons — Ceylon —
Eich Scenery — Native Schools — Matura — Animal and
Vegetable Life — Buddhist Temples — Dress of the
Singhalese — Dondra Head — Methodism in Ceylon —
Constellation of the " Cross " — Morotto — Preaching
to the Singhalese — Mr. Gogerly — Kandy — Buddhu's
Foot and Tooth — Opening of a Wesleyan Chapel for
the Singhalese — Their Liberality and Devotion — Fare
well — Ee-embarkation . . . .56

AUSTEALIA AND
TASMANIA.

CHAPTEE IV.
The Indian Ocean — Albatrosses — Southern Constellations
— Cape Leuwin — King George's Sound — Aborigines
and Wild Flowers — Convicts — Voyage from Albany to
Port Phillip— Melbourne— Ballarat and "the Dig
gings" — Geelong — Notes on Melbourne, Ballarat,
and Geelong, and on Methodism in the Colony of
Victoria . . . . . .89
CHAPTEE V.
Tasmania — Eiver Tamar — Launceston — Stories of the Old
Convicts — Last Night of the Tear 1860— Coach
Journey from Launceston on New Year's Day, 1861

CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
— Beautiful Scenery — Eeaping on New Year's Day —
Arrival at Horton College — Sunday-School Children
and New Year's Festival— Coach Journey renewed —
Tales of Sportsmen — New Face of Nature, Trees,
Birds, and Insects — Arrival at Hobart-Town — Notes
on Tasmania — Eeturn to Launceston — Ee-passage of
Bass' Straits, to Melbourne . . .114
CHAPTEE VI.
Voyage from Melbourne to Sydney — Port Jackson —
Eeception at Sydney — Opening of the Australasian
Conference — Paramatta — Eeturn to Sydney — Univer
sity — Bible Society Meeting — Beautiful Suburbs and
Neighbourhood of Sydney — The last Native — Again
to Paramatta — Eichmond — Bullock-Drays and Loads
of Wool — Splendid View of Sydney and its Harbour
— Botany Bay — House of Legislation — Notes on
Sydney and New South Wales — The Australasian
Conference, and Methodism on the other side of the
Globe  134
CHAPTEE VII.
Departure from Sydney — Eeturn to Melbourne— House of
Legislation— Meetings with Friends and Mmisters —
Opening of New Church at Collingwood — Passage to
South Australia — Extreme Heat on Arrival— Visit to
Kapunda in a Mining Eegion — Sabbath Services —
Welcome at Willunga— Vineyards on the Hills —
Plains and City of Adelaide— Farewell Breakfast—

CONTENTS. PAGE
Notes on South Australia— Western Australia-
General Views of the Island-Continent— The
Aborigines . • • • .175

RETURN HOME.

CHAPTEE VIII.
Voyage back from Australia to Ceylon — Visits to other
Buddhist Temples — Interior and Fort revisited —
Farewell to Ceylon — Voyage to Bombay — Caves of
Elephanta — Eamble through Bombay — The Parsees —
Voyage from Bombay to Aden — Voyage up the Eed
Sea — Scene of the Israelites' Passage- — Arrival at Suez
— At Cairo — Loss of Luggage — Arrival at Alexandria
— Luggage not found .... 205
CHAPTEE IX.
Departure for the Holy-Land — Jaffa — Pilgiims returning
from the Holy City— Associations of " Joppa " —
Journey to Eamleh — Night at the Latin Convent —
Scriptural Sites in the Journey from Eamleh — Watch-
houses — First Sight of Jerusalem— Church of the
Holy Sepulchre — Sacred Places— View from St.
Stephen's Gate— Valley of Jehoshaphat — The Mount

CONTENTS. XI
PAGE
of Olives — Zion Gate — The Jews' Quarter — Mount
Zion — Ancient and Modern City — Walls and Streets
— Bethany — Church of the Ascension — Sepulchre of
the Holy Virgin — Other Sepulchres — Tophet — Acel
dama — Jews' Wailing Place — Solomon's Bridge —
Second Visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre . 221
CHAPTEE X.
Journey to Bethlehem — Eachel's Tomb — Salesmen in Beth
lehem — Church of the Nativity — Tombs and Shrines
— The Plains of Bethlehem — The Garden of Gethse-
mane — Ancient Olives — Pentecost, and a Sacrament
with Christian Jews, in Jerusalem — Eoom of the
Passover — Pool of Bethesda — View from the Mount
of Olives to the Dead Sea and the Mountains of Moab
— Journey to Bethel — Gibeah — Mizpeh — Eamah —
The Mosque of Omar and the Tower of Hippicus —
Farewell to Jerusalem — Journey back to Jaffa —
Voyage Home ..... 252

KXt jfxXBt.

VOYAGE OUT.

VOYAGE OUT.

CHAPTER I.
Introduction — Voyage from Southampton to Gibraltar — "The Eock"
— The Town — The Market — The Mediterranean — Malta — The Harbour
of Alexandria.

There is a current observation among readers, that
books of travel are becoming vexatiously numerous;
and that people who pass over old or often-trod jour
neying routes should be content to see all the sights for
themselves, and say nothing concerning what they have
seen, except in conversation with their family and
friends at home. The only legitimate volumes of travel,
now-a-days, according to this opinion, are those of Du
Chaillu, who has so lately presented us with his mar
vellous pictures of the gorilla, — of Livingstone, who
devotes a life to the real exploration of Africa, with a
view to its real civilization, — or of some other explorer
of regions hitherto unknown, or of which it is highly
desirable we should have a true knowledge, such as
voyagers in search of the North- West Passage, or civi
lian companions of the march into China. The present
b 2

INTRODUCTION.

writer respectfully demurs to these sweeping opinions
He suggests, for the reader's favourable consideration,
that, so long as a traveller along the very oldest high
ways of the world takes up no unreasonable time in
relating his story, and does not swell it full of bor
rowed details, but gives it in earnest, — because he was
in earnest in going to see what he has seen, — his book
must have such a degree of readable freshness as should
be sufficient to interest every reader who is not incur
ably fastidious. Every eye has its own point of sight
from which it regards scenes and objects ; and it is by
comparing the different views of different travellers that
a true knowledge of foreign countries and their inhabit
ants is to be gained.
The author of this volume has endeavoured to give,
in as brief and succinct form as possible, his own views
of the countries through which he has passed, being
mindful of the exhortation by the Rajah of Tra-
vancore to a Christian Missionary, in the sixteenth
century : " Friend, be not tedious : remember, life is
short ! " His aim has not been to write a large book ;
but to reproduce, for the benefit of others, the impres
sions made upon his mind by what he saw and learned.
Por this purpose he has chosen what, perhaps, is not the
most inviting form of published writing, — that of the
journal-register; — and has transcribed from his note
book the fragmentary jottings made by the way. He
hopes, however, that advantage will be found in this
form of recital : it will give the best transcript of the
impressions as they were made on the mind.
It is the writer's conviction that the British Colonies,
at our antipodes, are but very partially understood and
valued : he will be glad if his own brief and imperfect

INTRODUCTION. 5
representations shall serve, in any degree, to render them
better known and appreciated. This volume might have
been swollen considerably, had he written at length
and to the full, on this great topic ; but he has striven
to confine his record to matters least familiar to English
readers. A like consideration of proportionate claim
has governed the selection of engraved illustration for
this volume. The author sketched his way in pictures,
as well as noted it in writing, — not only for practice in
Art, to which he had been attached from childhood, —
but also to have the forms and associations of what he
saw more distinctly and ineffaceably imprinted on his
mind. So it would not have been difficult to have
crowded the volume with sketches from his portfolio,
and to have made it a picture-book ; but he has, from
motives of economy, selected only one of his sketches
for publication.
The reader may as well be informed, at once, who the
author is, and what was the cause of his transit to the
other side ofthe globe. He is a Wesleyan Minister who,
by the appointment of his brethren, went forth as their
Representative to attend the Australasian Methodist Con
ference which, in January, 1861, assembled at Sydney.
His wife, though of delicate frame, resolved to accom
pany him, and to share in his adventures and perils.
His appointment was made, without previous notice or
intimation, far on in August, 1860. Within a month
afterwards, we sailed in one of the Peninsular and
Oriental Company's steam- ships; and, after lingering in
Egypt and Ceylon, on our way, we reached Australia
before the end of the year. In the Australian Colonies,
I visited the principal cities and towns, and ministered
in them; and I mingled with all classes of colonial
b 3

6 DEPARTURE.
society, finding among them a large number of indi
viduals to whom I had previously administered the
word of life in different parts of the United Kingdom.
We returned home before the end of June, 1861 ; and
the following record, in journal form, will enable the
reader to retrace our passage from place to place; to
learn the sources whence information was obtained; —
while persons contemplating travel in the same direc
tion may ascertain what can be done within a given
period of time.
At noon of Thursday, September 20th, 1860, we
went on board the steamer, " Ripon," at Southampton,
accompanied by our friends, — Rev. John Scott, Rev.
Dr. and Mrs. Hoole, Rev. Dr. Osborn, Rev. William
Arthur, M.A., and J. Robinson Kay, Esq., of Summer-
seat, Lancashire. These friends remained with us till
the vessel started ; and then left us for a point of land
whence the last sight of us could be had, and from
whence they might beckon us " farewell." We were
soon out of sight, and were passing between the Isle of
Wight and the Hampshire coast. Seriousness, but not
sadness, possessed us ; for we were going on the ser
vice of God, and knew that, under His protection, we
were as safe at sea as on land.
Our cabin was at the " poop," opposite the cabin of
the Captain, and was a convenient one ; but it was con
tinuously tremulous, through the perpetual movement
and rattling of the chain on the helm-wheel. The after-
deck was appropriated to the seats and promenade of
passengers. Forward, the ship was occupied by cabins
of officers, in the middle, — and by live-stock for pro
vision, at the sides : at the bow, was the crew's sleeping-

DEPARTURE.

place. Round the saloon, were passengers' cabins, —
first class, aft, — and second class, next the engine-room,
which, of course, was in the middle of the ship. Under
these, were holds for bullion and luggage. We had
about three hundred souls on board. Our ship was
well-provisioned; the Captain and officers did all
they could to render the voyage pleasant; — entering
freely into the conversation, games, and pastimes of the
passengers. Being English men and women, we, of
course, availed ourselves, at intervals, of our privilege
of grumbling ; but the accommodation was as good as
could be reasonably expected in a floating habitation ;
and the supplies were abundant. Passengers of both
sexes were not sparing of bitter-beer, any more than of
wine and spirits ; especially they who were returning to
the thirsty plains of India ; and the daily scene at table
in the saloon was that of a brilliant assembly at a
banquet. We were awakened every morning at four by
the violent scrubbing of the decks ; at six the steward
brought us coffee or tea; at nine the .passengers met for
breakfast ; at twelve for lunch ; at four for dinner ; at
six for tea ; and at nine, as many as were disposed so to
indulge themselves, gathered at the tables for grog.
The deck and the saloon, especially towards evening,
became scenes of animation and amusement ; and much
ingenuity was exercised to pass away time until half-past
ten, when lights were extinguished for the night. Such
were the main features of our home on the deep ; and
such our daily routine of sea-life : in the midst of it,
there was considerable time left to the thoughtful and
serious for reading and reflection.
When we went into the saloon, the first day, for din-

8 BAY OF BISCAY.
ner, we had the first full view of our fellow-passengers.
Many of them were military officers, their wives and
daughters, — and others young civilians, — going out to
India, China, and the Mauritius. There were also a
few colonists returning, by the Overland Route, to Aus
tralia. We had witnessed most affecting scenes between
some of them and their friends, at parting ; and sorrow
ful affection still lingered upon their countenances,
although two hours had passed away ; but, by degrees,
most of them became lively and talkative. At half-
past four, p.m., we sailed by the "Needles," and the
wind and the sea became rough, so that many passen
gers took early to their berths ; but, though the vessel
pitched considerably, we continued on deck till after
nine. Frid., Sep. 21. — No land in sight all day. Weather
boisterous ; so that the ship plunged and rolled continu
ously, and we could do little but accommodate ourselves
to its motion.
Sat., Sep. 22. — Rough sea and wet weather; but
contrived to read Dr. Maury's " Physical Geography of
the Sea." Retired to bed at half-past ten ; and had a
pretty good night, considering that we were now in the
turbulent Bay of Biscay.
Sun., Sep. 23. — In the morning, read the Liturgy
and preached on Divine Providence to an attentive
audience assembled in the saloon. Being requested to
hold another religious service in the evening, I read
the Evening Prayers of the Church of England, and
explained the nature and necessity of Religion, from
the thirteenth chapter of the First Epistle to the
Corinthians. Several thanked me for the day's ser
vices ; and some conversed with me on the subjects of

THE ROCK. 9
discourse. I found we had with us, on board, both
men and women who feared God and worked righteous
ness. The weather cleared up about noon ; and in the
evening we quitted the Bay of Biscay, and saw on our
left the coast of Spain.
Mon., Sep. 24. — A fine day. Passed the entrance of
the Tagus, with Lisbon in the distance. We could see
palace-like houses crowning the hill above the city,
with vessels crowding up the river. In the evening
our ship rode gallantly along ; the night was calm and
fine, and the moon threw her soft, silvery light over
the sea.
Tues., Sep. 25. — A bright, cheerful morning : nearly
all the passengers were on deck for an early walk,
and then at breakfast by nine. The thermometer
rose to seventy. In the afternoon saw the Spanish
mountains, and then Cape St. Vincent. Later in the
evening, we were within sight of Cadiz, and passed, at a
distance, the little town of Palos, whence Columbus set
sail for the discovery of America. We then sailed by
Trafalgar Bay ; and soon, through the hazy, lingering
light of the setting sun, Gibraltar might be discerned in
the distance, with its bold, massive outline like a huge
lion crouchant in the midst of the sea, keeping constant
guard for Great Britain at her main portal to the East.
A strong current from the west favoured us, and we
drove rapidly forward, that we might gain the bay
before gun-fire. The brilliant light of Europa Point
appeared amidst the increasing darkness. " The Rock
ahead ! " thundered the gruff, husky voice of the watch
at the bow. Our pace immediately slackened. " Stop
her ! " cried our thin, wiry Captain, from the paddle-
box. The steam fumed and screeched ; the chain-cable

10 GIBRALTAR.
rattled and shook the vessel; and then fell for the night.
The officer of pratique appeared in a boat, came on
board, made his inquiries, and, at once, pronounced
egress and access free between the appointed hours of
sunrise and sunset. Our Missionary at Gibraltar (Rev.
R. Webster) was soon on board, and arranged to receive
us at the quay of the New Mole by seven the next
morning; after which, we and our fellow-passengers
retired to our berths for the night.
Wed., Sep. 26. — Rose early, to look at the grand
Rock. At seven, drove with Mr. Webster to the
Mission-House; and found attached to it a spacious
chapel, with school and reading-rooms, in good con
dition, but not in the most eligible situation. We
were glad to find that the Mission was prosperous, and
that on the Sabbath morning, when the Methodist
military attend, as many as five hundred persons assem
ble in the chapel for Divine worship ; and that on the
Sabbath evening, when the military are absent, there
is a good congregation. After breakfast, we drove
through the town, viewing its narrow, thronged streets,
small shops, motley crowds of inhabitants and visitors,
and went round the North Point, from whence, on the
neutral ground, the best and fullest view of Gibraltar
can be obtained. As we returned, we saw the fish and
provision markets, public buildings and gardens, and as
much of the military defences and establishments as
our time would allow.
Gibraltar, as seen from the bay on the west, is
about two and a half miles long, and slopes rapidly
upwards from near the water to the ridge of the moun
tain-rock, which is from 1,300 to 1,400 feet high.

GIBRALTAR. 11
It is broader and bolder at the north end than at the
south; but throughout, as viewed at a distance, it
appears hoary with age, and browned by the sun. The
pent-up town and line of military works skirt the base
of the rock along the western side ; and fortifications
and batteries bristle, tier above tier, from the long
bastion by the water's edge to the very summit ; while
innumerable holes from interior galleries and caverns,
with cannons' mouths pointing towards the sea, may be
seen at all heights, and in all directions. The eastern
side of the Rock is almost as perpendicular as a built-up
wall; and appears like a huge stone-mountain cut
straight down, through the middle, with no shore, or
ledge at the foot ; but falling precipitously, and plomb
at its side, from the narrow ridge at the top into the
transparent blue water below ; so that on the east side
the natural form of the fortress is its own defence. On
all other sides it is strongly fortified ; so that it is not
difficult to beheve what is affirmed by military officers
in charge of it, that the Rock is impregnable. There
are extensive galleries in different directions, excavated
within by engineering skill; and from all these, at
intervals of a few yards, port-holes are broken through
to the exterior, having artillery so directed within them
that, at any moment, an approaching enemy might be
fired upon and destroyed. The Rock appears dotted
all over with these military perforations ; and at the
north end, where it is united to the Spanish continent
by a narrow isthmus of low sand, there is a sort of
tramway, all undermined, so that an army coming
towards it by land could at once be blown up, with
the road itself. The gates are equally prepared for
resistance and destruction; sentinels appear at every

12 GIBRALTAR.
turn ; and everywhere strict military vigilance seems to
be constantly maintained. Altogether, perhaps, Gib
raltar is the strongest and most formidable fortress
possessed by any nation. Its situation, at the extreme
tongue-end of the Spanish coast, at the entrance of the
Mediterranean from the Atlantic, and within gun-shot
of the coast of Africa, is the most advantageous possible.
We do not wonder that Spaniards and Moors, who have
more than once witnessed its burning fury, and felt its
destructive power, should speak of it by such ominous
names as,—" The Mouth of Fire," and " The Devil's
Tongue." Some of the gates are ancient, and have
upon them heraldic representations of renowned sove
reigns, such as the Emperor Charles V., and King
Philip II. ; but by far the most interesting relic of for
mer times is thevenerable Moorish Castle, standing about
midway up the ascent of the north-west shoulder of the
Rock, on the western side. It is nine hundred years
old; and has been successively in the possession of
Saracens and Christians, Africans and Europeans ; and
is still noble in decay. It is large, contains spacious
apartments, and a lofty tower rises above its square,
massive quadrangle. It is of deep yellow tinge, and
bears upon its surface, on all sides, unmistakeable proofs
of furious siege.
In the middle part of the western side of Gibraltar is
the Almeida, — supplying to the resident, and to the
visitor, as enchanting a place for promenade as can pos
sibly be found in Europe, or, perhaps, in the world. It
is an open space, extending from the sea-wall to the
base of the steeper part of the Rock, which has here
been levelled for the soldiers' parade-ground. It is
skirted with walks and ornamental gardens, with

THE TOWN. 13
alcoves, and seats in sheltered and attractive nooks. The
grounds are planted and laid out with ingenious taste.
Aloes, cactuses, figs, olives, orange-trees, and all kinds
of semi-tropical fruits and odoriferous plants, cluster
together upon it in rich profusion ; while in one part are
the graves and monuments of Trafalgar heroes, and in
another stands the bust of Wellington, which, the
inscription records, was brought from Lepida.
The pubhc buildings of Gibraltar are not large or
impressive, except the military establishments. The
Governor resides in an old Franciscan convent; the
cathedral is a miserable imitation of Moorish architec
ture, mingled with Italian ; and the Exchange, court
house, &c, are without any architectural merit whatever.
The streets are narrow and irregular; the houses and
shops low and small, and huddled together in all ima
ginable shapes and colours at the foot of the arid
precipices of the Rock ; while ships of war, and groups
of small craft, lie under the sea-wall batteries in front.
The Protestant Bishopric has been restored to Gibraltar,
so it is now dignified with the name of " city ; " and the
diocese of the Bishop extends all round those parts of
the Mediterranean where there are any Protestant
Christians. The natives of Gibraltar are principally
Roman Catholics ; and are spoken of contemptuously
by the other residents as " Rock Scorpions." About
one half of the inhabitants are said to be natives, and
the other half is composed of Spaniards, Moors, Jews,
Italians, Ionians, and British. There are some 5,000
British soldiers at Gibraltar, in ordinary times.
The scenes in the streets and markets, composed of
this mixed assemblage of inhabitants from various coun
tries, are diversified and picturesque. Spanish peasants

14 THE MARKET.
are seen, bringing provisions from the neighbouring
country, on their large, powerful mules, which are
showily arrayed in crimson and yellow trappings.
Each peasant looks as haughty as if he were a hidalgo ;
and his swarthy, stalwart frame is encased in velvet
breeches and a tight, embroidered jacket, and is sur
mounted with a slouched black hat of conical shape.
In his broad crimson sash lurks the dangerous knife,
too readily employed as the arbiter of quarrel. In con
trast to the excitable Spaniards, and with dignified
and imperturbable looks, stand their old hereditary
enemies, the Moors from the opposite coast of Bar
bary ; — their ebony faces overshadowed by huge white
turbans, their bodies robed in loose flowing dresses of
blue and crimson, and their feet resting in yellow
upturned pointed slippers. These are provision mer
chants, who have brought over, in small craft, fowls,
eggs, meat, and fruit. Among these glide Jews, with
their long flowing beards and greasy clothing, ever look
ing askance, as if all around were leagued in hostility
towards them. Then there are coarsely clad Spanish
women from the country, also with their provisions ; and
Spanish ladies, arrayed in graceful black lace mantillas,
and closely-drawn veils, — from under which they dart
piercing glances, — as we read, in the old stories; and
having in their hands the coquettish fan, which is made
to express in its position and wavings all the varied
feelings of the bearers. Among these are English
mammas and their rosy children, and nurses, and
English soldiers in bright scarlet uniforms ; while, above
the noise and jargon of the many tongues, may be
heard the military band, playing " God save the
Queen," or " Rule Britannia." When we were there,

THE MEDITERRANEAN. 15
the British volunteers for Garibaldi were in the streets,
on their w.ay to join the patriot hero in Sicily ; and by
their gay coloured dresses, and swaggering demeanour,
they gave increased enlivenment and interest to the
scene. The Rock itself is unproductive, but provisions from
the neighbouring coasts are abundant. There is a large
supply of fish daily ; and we purchased in the fruit-
market four pounds of grapes, half a hundred walnuts,
and two pounds of apples, — all for fifteen pence ! Many
native women and children are employed in the manu
facture of cigars. Poverty and crime, it is reported, are
not great at Gibraltar, though immorality is said to pre
vail. Convicts may be seen at public works in blue
cotton clothing, attended in batches by a guard, who
bears a staff. The climate of Gibraltar is soft, balmy,
and exhilarating ; and yet we were informed that epide
mics have, at different periods, swept off large numbers
of the inhabitants. Monkeys, which abounded a few
years ago, are no longer tenants of the Rock. As our
steamer glided away from it, I sketched the back of the
fortress, in its deep precipitous fall, with the Spanish
scenery adjoining.
Thurs., Sep. 27. — Clear, bright day. The sierras, or
Spanish mountains, still seen on the left. Had an
interesting conversation with a Professor of Learning
from India, on Hinduism and the religious systems of
the East, — on the late Mutiny, the Oxford Perverts, the
writings of Macaulay, &c, &c.
Frid., Sep. 28. — On deck at six. Sun's glare very
great. Passed Algiers. Huge fishes, sporting and
darting through the clear blue water.
c 2

16 THE MEDITERRANEAN.
Sat., Sep. 29. — Weather still warmer. Morning
very sultry ; and, in the day, a hot breeze from the
African coast. In the evening we passed, at a distance,
the Bay of Tunis, and the site of desolate Carthage.
Sun., Sep. 30. — Rose at half-past six. Climate fine
and warm. Religious service in the saloon at half-past
ten : good attendance. Preached on Abraham's call to
go to a strange country ; and applied the subject to the
passengers in their voyage to distant lands. Several
wept at the remembrance of home, and the mention of
the uncertain future in a new land. The large saloon
was filled with passengers, officers, and crew in their
dark blue Sunday clothing ; the " Union Jack " was
spread on "the cushion, under the Bible and the Prayer-
Book; and it was affecting to hear the deep murmur of
earnest responses during the reading of the Liturgy. I
was impressed with the reflection that to me had been
practically committed the ministerial charge of so many
souls ! By two, p.m., we sighted Malta ; and, steaming
past the island of Gozo, we reached the harbour of
Valetta by four in the afternoon.
The scene from our vessel was as busy and as brilliant
as could well be conceived. We had passed, on our
left, the massive forts of Ricasoli and St. Elmo, and
had beheld, between these, the jagged shores and
indented fortifications on both sides of the " great
harbour ; " and now we were in the quarantine harbour,
with forts Mancel and Tigue on our right, and with the
clean, beautiful city of Valetta, the capital of the island,
immediately before us. The basin, all around, was
covered with life and activity; ponderous tiers of bat
teries lined the shores ; and the stately houses of the
city, as pure and unstained as if they had that day been

MALTA. 17
fresh excavated from Bath-stone quarries, rose, story
above story, on the elevated ground in front; their
clear outlines and flat roofs cutting sharply against the
rich blue sky, while their bright forms and flowered
balconies were reflected in the liquid mirror beneath.
Crowds of picturesque boats, of all shapes and colours,
were putting off from the quay, and crossing the harbour j
to convey passengers ashore ; while from afltique canoe
like skiffs, of native construction, tawny men and boys
of half African mould, and all but naked, were plunging
into the deep bay, and exhibiting their extraordinary
feats of diving after silver coin thrown from our vessel.
We went on shore as soon as possible ; and climbing
the successive streets of " cursed stairs," we pushed our
way through hosts of touters and beggars, who hung
most tenaciously upon our skirts, until we reached the
summit of the steep ascent; when, crossing the busy
Strada Reale, we found the chief object of attraction to
us, — the celebrated cathedral of St. John. The exterior
of the church greatly disappointed us. It has a com
mon flat fagade, with two plain turrets containing the
famous bells of Rhodes ; and is built closely against, on
both sides. But on pushing aside the heavy curtain
which screens the entrance-portal, a scene of gorgeous-
ness and solemn grandeur presents itself. The church
is of Italian style, large and spacious, with a high vault
in the middle, and with arched aisles at the sides. At
the further end is the high altar, on an elevated platform,
and with its stately seats for ecclesiastical dignitaries.
All this is covered and enriched with marbles, historic
paintings, and tapestries, and with bronze figures of
sombre hue, while the pavement of the whole church is
one vast escutcheon, composed of monumental marble
c 3

18 MALTA.
slabs, for the chivalrous Knights of St. John, richly inlaid
with heraldic devices in mosaic, and with inscriptions, in
black, red, and deep yellow colours. Upon the floor
were seen kneeling Maltese men and women, — the latter
appearing half nun-like in their black mantilla cover
ings. Suspended from the walls are the trophies and
insignia of celebrated conquests, and the rusty keys of
memorable cities, such as Rhodes, Jerusalem, and Acre.
The solemn chant of the priests, accompanied by the
deep tones of the organ, which roll and echo through
the lofty vaults and remote recesses of the church, —
everywhere redolent with perfumed incense, — give a
sort of dreamy enchantment to the scene ; which in its
sombre hues, after the glaring sunlight without, and the
clamourous sounds and offensive stenches encountered
in the way, make the visit to St. John's a treat inde
scribably pleasurable. We worshipped silently among
the congregation, after our own Protestant manner, — ¦
praying for the Roman Catholic devotees around us ;
and, as it was the Lord's day, we left the Grand Palace
of the Knights, and the other sights of the city, to be
viewed on our return. With grief we saw not a few of
our fellow-passengers openly casting off religious re
straint, and publicly trafficking in lace and filagree-work
of gold and silver. Their conduct could not fail to be
injurious, not only to themselves, but also to the credit
of Protestant Christianity. On returning to our ship,
the descending streets, thronged with Maltese men,
women, and priests, — Arab merchants in their long
flowing garments, — red-coated British soldiers, and
rollicking English Jack- Tars, — presented a stream of
picturesque variety. The shops were open as on ordi
nary days of the week, exhibiting in full view their

THE MEDITERRANEAN. 19
various articles for sale ; and through public purchases
and pleasure-taking, the city, throughout, was utterly
devoid of the serenity belonging to the day of the Lord.
At ten p.m. we heaved anchor, and steamed out of the
harbour, nearly leaving behind some young military
officers, who had been carousing at the cafes, and who
had to make their way to us, after we had started, by
hard rowing from the shore. Darkness was thickening
upon us as we left ; but we could discern, as we passed,
frowning upon us in gloomy grandeur, the massive
granite fort of St. Elmo, in which lies the body of the
gallant Sir Ralph Abercrombie.
Mon., Oct. 1. — Rose early. Weather close and
oppressive ; but a refreshing breeze sprung up in the
day. Passed several vessels in full sail, and spoke with
some, all being anxious to learn more of the events of
Italy ; but they could not tell us more than that Gari
baldi had gained some advantage over the Pope's troops.
Tues., Oct. 2. — Had a refreshing bath in sea-water,
some hours before breakfast. During the day an Arab
pilot came on board to take charge of our ship, and
conduct her between outlying sunken rocks into the har
bour of Alexandria. Towards evening the ship's fire-
bell rung, to prove that all the crew were ready for an
emergency. This alarmed some of the passengers who
had been left unapprised of the object.
Wed., Oct. 3. — Passengers early on deck, and busy
with luggage, to be ready for landing. All hilarity
among them, being the last day and night to be spent
on board before reaching Egypt. The sun set gloriously
in the evening, flooding the whole scene with vermilion
and gold, while opposite rose the moon as from a
furnace of molten metal.

20 THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA.
Thurs., Oct. 4. — By half-past eight, a.m., Alexandria
in sight. A long, horizontal line of sand-banks — the
Pasha's palace and lighthouse on the left — innumerable
windmills, having half sails, and dumpy forms, on the
right. Arab pilot, now in full charge of the steamer,
seen with glass in hand on the bridge in midships,
excited and highly pretentious. On drawing near to
Alexandria, several barge-like boats approached us on
both sides, swarming with Arabs, Egyptians, and
Nubians, dressed in all sorts of clothing, and some with
scarcely any clothing at all. Clambering up the sides
of our vessel, they crowded the deck, but did not seem
at all eager for exertion, until one of the officers roused
them to it by masterful words and attitudes. The
hurry and confusion which followed can scarcely be
imagined. Luggage was tumbled over the ship in all
directions ; and woe betide the portmanteau that was
not strong ! The Arabs shouted, screamed, and gesti
culated in the most frantic manner. We stood by our
luggage until it was removed to the tender on which
passengers were going ashore. The harbour was
crowded with ships of various nations ; and among
them were several French frigates, which had recently
brought soldiers to suppress the insurrection and massa
cres in Syria. On landing, we were beset by all kinds
of eager aspirants for leading and conveying us into the
city ; but, selecting the most honest-looking dragoman
(as we thought) from among the crowd, we made our
way with him to the Orient Hotel, paying some five
shillings expenses from leaving the steamer to settle
ment in our inn.

CHAPTER II.
Egypt — Alexandria — Eailway, and View of the Country — Land of Goshen —
Cairo and its Wonders — The Suburbs — Ancient Christian Eemains —
The Nilometer — The Pasha's Naval Architect, and his Methodist
Eecollections — The " Petrified Porest " and " Tombs of the Caliphs "
— Dervish Worship — Heliopolis — Nile Boat and Voyage — The Pyramids
and the Sphynx — The Pasha's Palace and his Soldiers — Tombs of the
Mamelukes and of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Worship — View of Cairo
from the Citadel — Departure — The Desert Eailway — Suez, and Embark
ation on the Eed Sea.

Our drive through the narrow, irregular streets of
Alexandria was an introduction to Eastern life. It im
pressed us with a feeling of ancientness, as well as of
novelty. Our first sight of camels and veiled women
seemed a realization of Scripture scenes and patriarchal
times. But soon, the vision of merchants lounging on
cushions, and smoking long pipes, — half-naked and
embrowned water-carriers, with their swollen goat-skin
burthens, — women, glancing eagerly out of the large
wrappers with which they were enveloped to the eyes,
and attended by glossy negroes in loose white dresses
and crimson turbans, — ebony grooms in petticoat trou
sers, leading high-mettled Arabian horses with richly
embroidered saddles, — sleek asses, with carpet saddles
and mercurial boy-drivers, — and strings of lofty camels,
with their rolling eyes and slow, swaying motion of their
large heads and long necks, — transported us to the
enchanting and bizarre associations of "The Arabian

22 ALEXANDRIA.
Nights," and awoke within us the memory of young
dreams full of the pageantry of Oriental romance.
In the oblong square before our hotel the elite of the
inhabitants out of a population of 80,000 — Turks, Alba
nians, Syrians, Greeks, Jews, Copts, Arabs, Nubians,
Armenians, and Franks — promenaded, in stately and
motley show, from four to six in the evening. We
found the famed Alexandria, in which royal magnificence
and academic learning once out-rivalled Rome itself, to
have " bequeathed to the modern city only its ruins and
its name." The old foundations cannot even be traced,
the present city having shrunk within the ancient girdle
considerably. Fragments of fallen columns lie widely
scattered, and mounds remain half hidden by drifting
sand ; but there is no record of the buildings to which
they formerly belonged. We drove, of course, to the
obelisk named " Cleopatra's Needle," which was brought
by one of the Caesars from Heliopolis to adorn a temple,
though tradition falsely ascribes the removal to Egypt's
sumptuous Queen. It is covered with hieroglyphics,
familiar in their forms to English eyes, by miniature
models of this very obelisk, and is some seventy feet
high. Its prostrate fellow column, given to England by
Mehemet Ali, remains, as every one knows, still on
Egyptian soil. We next visited "Pompey's Pillar," a
well-proportioned column nearly one hundred feet high.
These gigantic fragments of polished syenite are nearly
all that remains of the architectural splendour which
distinguished the capital of the Ptolemies. They stand,
the one at the northern, the other at the southern
extremity of the modern city, as if in monumental
mockery of fallen greatness. We visited the Pasha's
palace, with its half-European, half-Turkish furniture

RAILWAY, AND VIEW OF THE COUNTRY. 23
and adornments ; then walked through the long bazaars ;
and, after a solemn stroll in the evening through un-
lighted streets, we retired to rest, but had little sleep,
for the constant howling and yelping of quarrelsome
dogs, and incessant calls of watchmen around the
square. Frid., Oct. 5. — Breakfasted at half-past seven, and
left for the train to Cairo at nine. The railway station,
at the south-east extremity of Alexandria, is a large
structure, with its ticket-offices and waiting-rooms, in
Continental rather than English style. The carriages
are English, bearing the name-plates of " Wright and
Son, Birmingham ;" but we felt it odd to have the
carriage door opened for us, and to be attended on our
journey, by railway guards in turbans. An attendant
very courteously deposited for us, in a net overhead
within our carriage, an earthen bottle fresh filled with
water from the Nile, and adjusted the Venetian windows
so as to screen us, as far as could be, from the drifting
sand and sun's blazing heat,- — evidently relying on our
English generosity for some remuneration. Our course
lay through the cultivated land of the Delta, and,
having passed by the villa-like houses of the suburbs,
and burial places crowded with Egyptian tombs and
graves, we were soon among fields, where natives were
at work, making sluices, and raising water by their
bucket-wheels, to irrigate the land. Several villages,
chiefly composed of dark mud dwellings, lay by the
railroad, with here and there a stone mosque and minaret ;
and then we swept by clumps of trees, and now and
then a picturesque and solitary palm.
We felt at once that we had reached the Egypt of our
dreams. The palm tree, — that familiar type of Eastern

24 RAILWAY, AND VIEW OF THE COUNTRY.
scenery, — the foliage of Scripture illustrations, which
were so dear among the pictures of our childhood, asso
ciated with the figures of Patriarchs, Prophets, Apostles,
and Christ, — was before us at every stage. We thought
of Joseph and his brethren and Pharaoh, of Jacob and
Moses, and of the Virgin and her persecuted Infant. It
is true that on the way we saw much to disturb the
pleasantness of our reveries. Upon the sandy embank
ments we saw strings of camels and asses, attended by
men, women, and boys, who were generally very meanly
and scantily clad, and who were often filthy in the
extreme. Now and then, astride a nimble-footed donkey,
might be seen a fat, shaky Turk, clothed in rich, flowing
robes, and his red-slippered feet dangling within six
inches of the ground. At intervals we passed an
Egyptian family of the better class travelling with the
Eastern ass, most strikingly after the style and manner
in which Italian painters represent a " Riposo," or
Joseph, Mary, and the young child Jesus in the flight
into Egypt. But, in most cases, the low, degraded
appearance of the groups of natives which we passed
could scarcely be exceeded by that of the savage inha
bitants of the interior. Neither men nor women had
sufficient covering for decency; while boys and girls,
up to ten or twelve years of age, were entirely nude, and
were often clotted and bedaubed with sand and mud,
like so many mere wild animals. " Surely," we said, as
we dashed along in the train over the level land, past
group after group of dirty, shameless men and women,
" the Scripture prophecy concerning this country is
literally fulfilled, and Egypt has become the basest of
kingdoms ; for in it cleanliness has scarcely any exist
ence, and nakedness no shame ! "

CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 25
Parts of the country, with its overflowings of water,
resembled the fens of Lincolnshire ; the style of plough
ing and labour was of the most primitive kind, and we
saw, in our way, many striking illustrations of Scrip
ture in the manners and customs of the people. The
hot climate seemed to have tamed and subdued both
beasts and men. Buffaloes were resting in the water,
with their nostrils out only; the cattle employed in
husbandry and as beasts of burthen went lazily along ;
and both labourers and travellers, whom we passed,
moved leisurely. Half way to Cairo we stayed for
refreshment, at the station provided by the Pasha ; and
partook of a semi-English repast. Soon afterwards, we
crossed the Nile, and were in the Land of Goshen,
where verdure and trees were abundant.
By half-past three, p.m., we had our first sight of the
Pyramids, with their long familiar forms mellowed to
the view by a rosy hue which rested upon them in the
distance. The sky was a soft purple rather than a
bright blue, and it bathed all things in its warm, sombre
light, and harmonized them delightfully. The country,
as we advanced, became increasingly green and luxuriant
near to us ; but beyond we could see the hot, steaming
desert, quivering in parts with reflected light. The
mosques arid minarets of Cairo appeared before us, with
the Mokattam mountain range behind. At half-past
four in the afternoon we reached the famous Egyptian
capital of Saracenic times — the most wondrous city in
the dear old stories of the " Thousand and One Nights"
— and drove at once to Shepherd's Hotel, where, from
notice previously sent by Indian passengers who pre
ceded us, we found a good double-bedded room awaiting
our arrival. After dinner and a short walk in the suburbs,

26 CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS.
we retired to rest ; but through the tattered state of the
bed curtains, we were preyed upon by mosquitoes until
covered all over with the effects of their bites. It
seemed that night as if aU the tormenting insects of
Cairo had been summoned to a kingly feast upon English
flesh ; for they came through the open windows, and
preyed upon me to the full.
Sat., Oct. 6. — After breakfast went to the door of the
hotel to engage donkeys for the day, and found a swarm
of boys with asses. On sight of me, the lads all voci
ferously solicited engagement, in the loudest and most
amusing manner. " You want good donkey ? " one
inquired. Another shouted, " Mine the best donkey ! "
and another, " Mine a stallion donkey !" Then the
names of their several steeds would be sounded out
loudly, and all together. One exclaiming, " Have my
Snooks!" another, "Have Jenny Lind!" another,
" Have Garibaldi !" and another, " Have the Bernicean
Boy !" These youths are sharp, eager aspirants for
employment, and have picked up a3 much English as
enables them to be guides to travellers : they are
" dragomen" in embryo. Their complexions are a
light reddish bronze ; they are dressed mostly in dark
blue blouse, or tunic ; have bare legs, feet, and arms,
and wear upon their heads either a red cap with a black
tassel, or a gay-coloured handkerchief picturesquely
folded around the temples. The donkeys are of various
sizes. Some are large white Meccas, nearly as high as
our mules; but the greater number are smaller than
European asses, and are darker in colour. Nearly all
of *h.!*n are arrayed in red saddles with high pommels,
and they are owned by proprietors who employ the boys
tor small daily wages to hire them to traveUers, at six-

CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 27
pence per hour, or one and sixpence for the day. I
selected from the fair of donkeys a large white Mecca
one for myself, and a darker, smaller one for my wife.
Mounted on these, we set forth on a ride into the city,
our exultant drivers walking behind, and waving their
sticks in triumph. Sudden strokes on the haunches of
our beasts startled both them and us, and we went
trotting on at a smart ambling pace, by what would be
called the boulevard of a continental city, until we
reached the Frank part of the new European Bazaar.
This was thronged with persons of all ranks and cos
tumes, who were threading their way in carriages, on
horseback, on asses, or on foot, as best they could. We
had to be careful on our saddles ; for if our donkeys saw
an opening, they suddenly started for it ; and, if we had
not been upon our guard, they might soon have slipped
us off behind, and let us lie, amidst the laughing crowd,
on the ground.
Keeping our seats, we pursued our way through a
labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes to the Turkish
bazaar, attended by our donkey-drivers, who, in addition
to the sharp strokes inflicted upon our steeds behind,
loudly vociferated to all around to make way for us, as if
we were the most important personages in Cairo ! The
scene, as we went along, was a perfect masquerade. It
was an ever-shifting drama of Eastern life, acted imme
diately before you, — being of all forms, and of all colours.
There were ladies in dark and white veils ; some riding
like puffed up balloons, on asses led by fat, shining
eunuchs; and others on foot, with their respective
guardians. They were clothed in a hood-like mantle of
black, yellow, or white, and no part of their person was
seen but their dark eyes, rimmed with khol, glancing
d 2

28 CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS.
lustrously out from two holes in the front of their head
dress, and which head-dress is divided in the middle,
from the forehead to the chin, by a string of yellow
ornaments like coins. Under their bulged external
covering they wear loose trowsers, — yellow, pink, or
white, — and on their feet small turned-up shoes with
sharp points. The women ride astride on the asses,
and the stout, black eunuchs who lead the asses are
showily, and in some instances sumptuously, arrayed in
long blue robes. They strut along by the side of their
charge with conscious importance. The females of the
lower classes were seen moving among the crowd ; some
bearing pitchers of antique form upon their heads, re
markably upright in their bearing, and their scanty
dresses falling down upon their bare legs, revealing too
fully the outline and symmetry of their forms. These
were loosely clad in dark blue cotton shirt-like dresses ;
and their faces were only partly covered. Others were
more scantily covered, and had their naked infants —
with sore eyes and covered with preying insects — astride
on their shoulders, or on their hips. Among these were
old women, who, under the fierce heat of the Egyptian
sun, had been burnt and dried until their skins had
become shrivelled and hippopotamus-like, and they were
truly hideous. Strings of calm, dignified camels, laden
heavily on either side with paniers, strode dreamily
along ; and on their tawny scabbed humps you would
see dark Nubians or sallow Egyptians, nodding at the
tread of the beasts that bare them. Then came half-
naked water-carriers, with blown out goat-skins, drip
ping from the Nile, holding in the one hand the mouth
of the skin, and in the other a can into which to pour
forth the water for sale. Then you would see Franks

CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 29
of different European nations, and here and there a
portly well-dressed Englishman on a donkey, and wear
ing a wide-awake hat turbaned with a roll of white
muslin about the crown, to avert from his head the
rays of the sun. He looks round and speaks as if
master of the drama, and as if the whole scene had
been made up purposely for him. On each side of the
narrow streets are small cupboard-like shops, stored
with shawls and gay articles; and on the tailor-like
boards in front — some one or two feet from the ground
— sit cross-legged, calm, imperturbable Turks, in rich
turbans and long, flowing robes, smoking their long
pipes, looking exactly as if they were sitting for por
traits, and as if they had been sitting there undis
turbed for half a century ; for they have no movement
whatever except in their eyelids. The streets are narrow
enough below, but they decrease in breadth above by
storied projections,— after the manner of the old houses
which remain in Coventry, Tewkesbury, and such of
our towns as were famous in the Wars of the Roses, —
until they all but meet overhead, and only a narrow
zig-zag stripe of blue sky at top is discernible. As you
proceed you will see masons busily building in turbans ;
with carpenters and other artisans, all petticoated and
turbaned. Then you come upon the disgusting sight
of Dervishes, all naked except at the loins, with matted
hair and filthy skin, asking alms, with their bag ; but
they give way for the four-wheeled carriage with its
gaudy trappings, containing a Turkish lady of rank, and
preceded by a dark runner, dressed in crimson and blue,
bearing his silver-tipped wand, and warning the crowd
of the approach of his window-screened mistress. On
the box with the coachman, or slung behind, are the
d 3

30 CAIRO AND its wonders.
guardian eunuchs, with faces like polished ebony, fat
and plump, and richly clothed. Scattered among these,
in greasy dresses, are sordid, sharp-featured, sly-looking
Jews, from various nations; jaunty, rakish Greeks, with
finely moulded forms and picturesque costumes; and
dark, turbaned Copts, claiming to be descendants of the
ancient Egyptians, and wearing crosses on their wrists
and other parts of their bodies. Some of them are
shouting "backsheesh!" at the top of their voices:
indeed, this is the common cry heard by Englishmen
wherever they go in Egypt.
Before we reached the Turkish Bazaar itself, the
narrowing streets seemed literally choked with the
motley crowd passing and repassing through them. The
scene, as viewed from our saddles, was strange and
picturesque in the extreme. It seemed like a sea of
white turbans, bobbing up and down, with rising and
subsiding waves. Again, and again we were jammed
tightly up in the living mass, when our driver could not
open space for us in front, however loudly he might
scream, nor move our donkeys an inch forward, however
smartly he might belabour them behind. All we could
do was to exercise patience, and attend to the warning
of our youngsters, who repeatedly cautioned us to have
a care over our pockets and jewelry, for there were Arab
sharpers in the crowd. By movements at intervals, we
pushed our way slowly forwards, alighting at different
stages to examine richly ornamented mosques, marble
fountains, and baths. Leaving our asses at the pole-
barrier next the street, we went into the mosque of
Sultan Kalaoon, or the " Mosque of the Madhouse," as
it is commonly called; and found it to be a large,
solemn structure, supported by huge, ponderous columns,

CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS. 31
and surmounted by arches of the Saracenic or horse
shoe form. Taking off our shoes, as required on
entering upon the " holy.ground " of Mahommedan wor
ship, we passed through the doorway of the screen into
the inner compartment, where stood the tomb of the
founder, — and beyond it the circular niche for prayer,
curiously inlaid with mother-of-pearl and mosaic work,
and divided into compartments by rows of small, dumpy
columns. The spandrils of the arches and the windows
above are adorned with light, elegant tracery ; and on
the whole the effect is gorgeous and impressive. On
resuming our ride, we soon reached the veritable Turkish
Bazaar, which we entered on the right by a narrow,
shady, lane-like passage, where it was all but impossible
for two donkeys on meeting to pass one another. We
saw, as we rode leisurely along in these dusky passages,
all redolent with aromatics and musk, the small, cup
board-like shops at the sides, richly stored with clothing
and jewelry ; and their owners sitting on the low dais
in front, in dreamy repose, with slippers by their side,
moking their pipes, or sipping tiny cups of hot coffee,
as if careless and independent of business altogether.
We then rode through other bazaars, stopping at the
several departments of manufacture and sale, to examine
different articles of silk, cotton, and woollen dresses, and
handling the curiously wrought slippers, gold embroi
dered jackets, ornate and elegantly fashioned pipes, and
firelocks inlaid with ivory or gold. We gazed upon
magicians, snake-charmers, mountebanks, and story
tellers, with their encircling crowds of wonderers, as we
passed along on our patient steeds ; and returned to our
hotel another way, by unpaved streets of the nar
rowest dimensions, where — from the projecting lattices

32 CAIRO AND ITS WONDERS.
above — occupants of opposite houses might hold tete-a-
tete conversations, and look into each other's apartments
without difficulty; and where the only opening for
light was from a narrow strip of sky, like a wave of blue
ribbon, overhead. The lattice-work in front of some of
the projecting windows of the upper stories is very beau
tiful; and some houses, in their lower stories, have
circular and horse-shoe headed doorways, with orna
mental hoodmoulds covering delicate interlaced stone
work, and enclosing sentences in Arabic characters from
the Koran. On looking through the doorways of some
superior dwellings, we could see large open courts, sur
rounded by spacious suites of apartments for the different
sexes ; while in front of the entrance were seated black,
swabby eunuchs, in their purple, green, and scarlet
dresses, lounging on cushions, and waited on by slaves,
as if they were the major-domos of these mansions.
Most of the streets, however, through which we passed
were lined at the sides by the darkest and dirtiest hovels
imaginable, from which emerged half-naked men and
women ; and at length we had to hasten the paces of
our beasts from a part occupied by females, who, without
veil or covering of any kind to hide their painted, saucy
faces, made it plain, by their looks and gestures, what
they were.
After taking rest at our inn, we rode some four miles
north of the city, to the celebrated Gardens and Palace
of Shoobra. The road was broad, and lay through an
arched avenue of acacia and sycamore trees, which
shaded us effectually from the sun, and rendered our
ride cool and pleasant. We found the gardens pretty,
and fragrant with the scent of roses and geraniums, but
too formal and Dutch-like in their arrangement and

THE SUBURBS. 33
radiating lines to satisfy English eyes. We plucked
lemons and oranges, by leave of the native gardeners,
and found them truly refreshing after our protracted
ride. We were then admitted to the palace-fountains
provided by Mehemet Ali for the ladies of his hareem.
It is a large quadrangular bason of water, surrounded
by a covered corridor, the mason- work of which is of
Carrara marble, fancifully sculptured and adorned by
Italian workmen. On each side, within the corridor,
and projecting into the large bason, are sumptuous
seats ; and at each angle of the building is a superb
room with divans, fitted up in Turkish and European
styles combined; while in different parts stand and
hang large, brilliant glass chandeliers. To this spacious
marble fountain of, perhaps, one hundred yards long on
each side, and four feet deep, the Pasha's wives come at
their pleasure to bathe and to sport themselves, attended
by their watchful keepers, the eunuchs, who have the
sole guardianship of the place during its possession by
the ladies, and who alone have the privilege at such
times of entering within its precincts. On going, we
met the Pasha's brother on the road, and in returning
we passed, in their several carriages, the Pasha's sister
and the Pasha's child, with its English governess. The
road was thronged with natives, their asses, and their
camels; and at every few yards on our way, both in
going and returning, we met richly dressed merchants
of the city, who had their villas and gardens in the
neighbourhood, some of them in carriages, preceded by
outrunners, but mostly on slender, prancing steeds,
richly caparisoned.
In the evening, after dinner, we went to the English
Church clergyman's, (Rev. Mr. Lieder's,) attended by a

34 THE SUBURBS.
man with a lanthorn, which all persons are required to
have with them in the streets of Cairo after nightfall.
We here found Miss Daniell, whom we had known in
England, and who, with Mrs. Lieder, her friend, most
readily gave us useful information, and showed us all
the courteous and considerate attention we could desire
during our stay in Egypt.
Sun., Oct. 7. — Went to the English Church, in Rev.
Mr. Lieder's house : heard a converted Jew preach a
good gospel sermon, from Rev. i. 5, to a congregation
of about thirty persons, chiefly English ; and afterwards
partook of the Lord's Supper with about a dozen com
municants. In the evening we had a " church in the
house," being too much indisposed by eastern sickness
to leave our room ; and the night that followed was one
of considerable suffering.
Mon., Oct. 8. — Mrs. Jobson and self rose from our
beds in great weakness. During the day, however, we
felt sufficiently restored to visit the Protestant burial-
ground, and read the names and inscriptions on the
grave-stones of many from our own land ; and we after
wards drove to the Mosque of Omar, the Roman Camp,
and old Cairo. The mosque is said to be the oldest in
Egypt, and to have been built on the model of the
temple at Mecca. The Roman Camp is, in reality, a
ruined fortress ; and within its enclosure lies a Coptic
village. Here the Copts show you a building which,
they say, was occupied by the Holy Family while in
Egypt. The inside of it we could not see, the key being
missing. Napoleon III. recently sent from his army a
guardian for this " holy place ;" but the Coptic priest
who had the charge of it, preferring to remain its
custodian, hid the keys. It was only a mean-looking

ANCIENT CHRISTIAN REMAINS. 35
building externally. Another spot shown by the Copts,
and much revered by them, is one in which some cruel
martyrdoms of the early Christians were made by
Diocletian. They also show you an upper room, at the
head of a broad flight of stairs, which they aver to have
been the banquet-hall of Marc Antony and Cleopatra.
To me, the really impressive remnant of antiquity shown
here was an old Coptic Christian church in an upper
story, and which is declared by the Copts to be as much
as fifteen hundred years old. This is an exaggeration ;
but it is evident that the church is very old, and it pro
bably stands where believers in Christ assembled for
worship almost as far back as the beginning of Chris
tianity. The church is very primitive in its plan and
form. Lengthwise it is divided into four compartments,
each of which has now an altar at the east end ; and
now, as in early times, the females, the novitiates, and
the young have their several places assigned to them in
these different compartments. The church is supported
in its upper walls by marble pillars, originally white,
but now grey with age. It is covered by four open,
circular roofs of primitive construction. The pulpit is
also of white marble. Within the latticed screen of the
chancel is the reading-desk, from whence the Scriptures
are daily read ; and there is another similar reading-desk
in the nave on this side of the screen. The church, in
its fittings and ornaments of altars, gilt pictures, and
suspended lamps, displays signs of departure from
primitive simplicity. Nevertheless it is a marvel that
here, where Roman paganism sought by its iron power
to crush Christianity in its infancy, and where Mahom-
medanism has for so many years raged with fanatical fury,
a church should still exist, where Christ is professed and

36 THE NILOMETER.
worshipped, and where His Gospels are read daily.
Surely some great design of Divine Providence must be
connected with this fact, the true emblem for which is
the bush unconsumed in the flame. In the large,
spacious passage to this building a Christian school
master was instructing a number of gabbling children,
who with himself were seated cross-legged upon the
floor. From the upper story of the church there is a
good view of the Nile and its fertile borders, with Old
Cairo immediately on the right, and with the dusky
Pyramids beyond.
From the Roman Camp we went down to Old Cairo,
which we found as narrow and dirty in its streets as the
lowest parts of New Cairo, and as much thronged with
inhabitants and traders of various classes. On reaching
the river side, we had a full view of the Isle of Roda,
which, opposite Old Cairo, stretches its banks length
wise in the middle of the river for good part of a mile.
Roda is a most lovely island, and has been carefully
planted with trees, shrubs, and flowers, by British horti
culturists, employed by the Pasha. It was at this
island that the " goodly child " Moses is said to have
been discovered by Pharaoh's daughter, when she came
down to bathe. It might be so. There are still flags
growing at the borders of the island ; but the weight of
water rushing past it, with the turbulent eddies in front,
where the two currents meet, would make it, if then as
now, a most dangerous place for the ark of bulrushes
and its precious contents. We went in a boat over the
deep, hurrying water, to see at the head of the island
what has probably been on it, in one form or other,
from the time of the old Pharaohs — the Nilometer.
This is well known to be a graduated upright pillar, or

THE PASHA'S NAVAL ARCHITECT. 37
shaft, placed in a chamber, while the water rises,
through under channels, to a height equal to what it is
outside the island. During the season the rise of the
Nile is published by criers daily in the streets of Cairo ;
and taxes are levied by Government upon the land
accordingly. But it is said that the height ofthe waters
at the Nilometer is by some means made to correspond
more with the state of the exchequer than with the river
itself. When we were there, the river was higher than
it had been known to be for many seasons, and conse
quently we could see little of the Nilometer-chamber
and its pillar, which were nearly covered by the abun
dance of water that had flowed into the enclosure.
Tues., Oct. 9. — We could not leave our room for
sickness till the latter part of the day, when the Pasha's
chief engineer, who boarded at our hotel, proposed to
drive us down to Boulak, the port of Cairo, where he
would introduce us to an interesting character — the
Pasha's naval architect. We accepted his proposal;
and on reaching the house of the architect were sur
prised to see, on his book-shelves, Adam Clarke's
Commentary, Wesley's and Watson's Works; and the
Reports and Notices of our Wesleyan Missionary So
ciety. We were wondering at the unexpected sight,
when the master of the dwelling entered, and was
introduced to us by the engineer as [" Hassan-ain-Ef-
fendi." He was a finely-framed man, with large round
head and face of true Egyptian, or red olive,
complexion, and in full dress, of red cap, embroi
dered, tight jacket, baggy breeches, and broad sash,
&c. He very courteously bade us be seated; and
when I told him that I was a Methodist Minister, on
my way to a Conference in Australia, he became greatly
E

38 THE PASHAJS NAVAL ARCHITECT.
excited, and related to us how, when in England for
education in his profession, under the patronage of
Mohammed Ali, he had seen much of the Wesleyans at
Sheerness and Rochester, and in London ; that he had
received favours from them both in social entertainment
and religious instruction ; had heard their most talented
preachers, such as Watson, Bunting, and Newton ; and
that he felt as if he could never repay the debt of grati
tude he owed the Methodists for what they had done for
him. He further stated that he continued to read their
publications, and thus explained what had so greatly
surprised us in the books on his shelves. He expressed
his great delight at seeing us; and said that he had
seen me on a former day in the city, and was strongly
moved " by a mysterious impulse " to step up to me,
and introduce himself; but refrained from doing so,
lest he should be deemed by one who knew nothing
of him as a mere touter, seeking to make gain of a
traveller. The friend who had brought us said he knew
nothing of this, nor that I was a Methodist Minister ;
but simply thought that we should be gratified by inter
course with an intelligent and accomplished Egyptian.
We mutually rejoiced in our acquaintance, thus strangely
brought about ; and, not willing to enjoy his pleasure
alone, he went and brought to us his beautiful wife.
After the ceremonies of introduction, she gradually
unveiled herself, and became very free and conversable.
His youthful son, the true image of his honest-faced
father, was also brought to us. We conversed on
various subjects; and arranged with him rides and
walks for sight-seeing in the city and its neighbourhood.
He told us of wonderful deliverances he had received
under persevering persecutions from men who, as he

THE " PETRIFIED FOREST." 39
described, had " the wayward minds of children with
the despotic power of lions and tigers ; " and he thank
fully ascribed his deliverances to God.
Wed., Oct. 10. — In the house all day ; and in bed
most of it, from continued exhaustion.
Thurs., Oct. 11. — Somewhat stronger; and rode on
donkeys several miles out of Cairo, to see the " Petrified
Forest." We wound through the narrow, unpaved
streets of the crowded city, and, leaving it at the huge,
massive " Gate of Victory," we found ourselves in the
sandy desert, without a tree, or a bush, or a single
habitation to break its dead, monotonous aspect. Im
mediately outside the gate was a crowded burial-ground,
covered with Egyptian graves and tombs, and without a
particle of verdure to relieve its loose, sandy soil. We
rode on under the scorching sun, meeting in our way
companies of dark Bedouins, with their camels and
firelocks, looking fiercely and savagely upon us, as
though they were going to take advantage of our help
less condition. We smiled, and nodded good-will
towards them, and they passed on with their burdened
beasts to the gate of the city. By the time we reached
the " Petrified Forest " we were much exhausted by the
heat that fell directly upon our weak frames from the
sun overhead, and which was reflected from the burning
sand. We were disappointed with the " Forest," as it
is erroneously called : for though there are pieces of
petrified wood — of as much, in some instances, as one
or two feet in length — strewing an elevated part of the
desert for miles in extent, yet there are no stems of
petrified trees standing, as we had been led to expect.
After some rest on the heated ground, we returned
over the bald, bare desert, having the Mokattam range
e 2

40 " TOMBS of the caliphs."
of mountains on our left ; and seeing in our way, as the
only things to break the monotonous scene of parched
sand, the whitened bones of camels and asses that had
fallen there, and been left to bleach in the sun.
We rode up to those wonderful monuments of the
past, erroneously called " Tombs of Caliphs ; " and read
in those massive and highly-ornamented structures,
with their dilapidated walls, minarets, and domes, a
humiliating lesson on human vanity. Whom those
gigantic tombs, with all their Saracenic arches and
enrichments, represent, none can now tell with certainty ;
though their builders, of not more than five or six
hundred years since, reared them as proud memorials
of their own families and names ! We found in them
most wretched, half-naked men and women, who lite
rally " had their dwellings among the tombs," and who,
like all others of their class in Egypt, clamoured hard
for "backsheesh." Our donkey-drivers, on returning
to the city, plied us equally hard for " backsheesh ; "
telling us that their eighteenpence a day for each
donkey had all to be given to their masters ; and that,
if we gave them nothing, they would go altogether
unpaid. We did not believe this. But it seemed hard
to be enjoying so much ourselves, and not to gratify at
a small cost poor lads who had been civil and constant
throughout; so I invariably gave them something for
themselves at the end of our day's rides.
On reaching Cairo we found that the mail-bags had
arrived by Marseilles and Alexandria from England;
and we were cheered with letters and news dispatched
for us a fortnight after we left Southampton. In the
night the Bombay and India passengers came to Cairo,
and with great noise and clamour took possession of

dervish worship. 41
bed-rooms within our hotel. On former nights, the
several republics of dogs in the streets made noise
enough in their wolf-like barking and howling at one
another; but on this night one would have supposed
that every foot of street in Cairo was crowded with
disturbed and angry dogs : so loud and violent was the
noise which they made.
Frid., Oct. 12. — Still weak and incapable of much
exertion ; but drove with Hassan-ain-Effendi, to the
College of the Dervishes, to witness their strange
ceremonies. The building — or convent, as it may
be called — stands upon the bank of the Nile. We
entered next the river, through a quadrangular court
yard, in which, on high, long benches, under over
shadowing trees, were spread hairy mats for the
recluses. We entered the Mosque, and saw in the
middle of the floor from twenty to thirty wild-looking
men, standing in a circle round their leader, or fugleman,
in various costumes. On one side of them were
musicians with their tom-toms, cymbals, trumpets,
and other instruments of which we knew not the names.
At the sound of the music, their leader, a noble-looking
man in a rich dress, began to move, and to say, with
a gentle voice, " Allah ! " " Allah ! " The men in the
circle followed him in his movements, and said, almost
in a whisper, "Allah ! " "Allah ! " The leader then,
instead of walking round and nodding, as it were, to
each of his brethren, stood in the centre, as a position-
master and time-keeper for them all, and increased
his motions gradually, until the action became quick
and violent, and until, by swinging and bending,
backwards and forewards, his long, dishevelled hair
swept the floor, alternately, before and behind. This
e 3

42 HELIOPOLIS.
was accompanied by groans, and sighs, and exclama
tions of the deepest and wildest kind, and was imitated
by the men in the circle. The whole company con
tinued their excitement, until they seemed to become
mad with it, and you felt sure they must drop down
dead with exhaustion. To our surprise they prolonged
these violent motions, which made them sweat and
foam terrifically, for a considerable time; and until
by their loud exclamations of " Allah ! " " Allah ! " in
connexion with the discordant sounds of the tom-toms,
cymbals, and trumpets, the Mosque seemed to become
a perfect pandemonium in sight and sound. Then,
in obedience to the change of motion and cries from
their leader, they would all suddenly change, and be
like him, until nature could endure no more, and they
rushed forth from the Mosque into their court-yard,
and threw themselves at length upon their mats.
Hassan-ain-Effendi led my wife away on his arm, and
I followed. The dervishes gazed curiously upon us
as we passed by them. We were feeling sad at this
strange exhibition of poor deluded human nature,
when our friend and guide broke the silence by saying,
"They whom you have seen to-day are the Ranters
of Mahommedanism ! What you have witnessed is
not prescribed by the Koran, but is performed under
the false idea of higher sanctity and of more meritori
ous service."
Sat., Oct. 13. — Went to Heliopolis — about two
hours' ride from Cairo — passed some mosques and
tombs, and one of the Pasha's palaces, on the road.
Then we rode through the village of Matareeh, beyond
which we saw a well, — the water was raised by oxen, —
said to have been the well where Joseph and Mary

NILE BOAT AND VOYAGE. 43
were refreshed on their flight into Egypt. Adjoining
the well is a garden, in the midst of which is an
extremely old sycamore, under which, it is also said,
the Holy Family reclined. The tree and well are in
the direct road from Syria to Egypt ; and the traditions
of their use by Joseph and the Virgin are very old.
We had some difficulty in reaching Heliopolis, because
of the inundation of the Nile. There are numerous
mounds around, by which we could trace the position
and circuit of the city, once so famous for its schools
of philosophy ; and in a garden stood a solitary obelisk
of red granite, said to be one of two which stood at the
entrance of the great Temple of the Sun, and at the
end of a line of Sphynxes. Plato, Herodotus, and,
perhaps, Moses, learned here the wisdom of the
Egyptians; and here, four thousand years ago, Joseph
married the fair Asenath, daughter of Potipherah,
priest of On.
Sun., Oct. 14. — Went to the Episcopal Church at
Cairo in the morning, and heard there a faithful and
excellent sermon. In the afternoon, attended the
service of the American Missionary, who also preached
a good practical sermon from, " Do ye now believe ? "
Mon., Oct. 15. — Arranged for a Nile boat with
Hassan-ain-Effendi. There was much difficulty in get
ting it ready, because of the leisurely movements of the
natives ; aniwe did not leave Boulak till half-past five
in the evening. Our boat was large and commodious.
The fore part was allotted to the Arab sailors, who were
seven in number. The after part contained a saloon
with cushions, a bath, and three bed-cabins ; and there
were pillowed seats on deck by day. Our vessel had
but one mast forward, with yard and sail bowed

44 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX.
like the wing of a bird. We took a cook with us, and
he cooked well ; but he looked like a rascal, and was
known to be one. Our turbaned captain was a tall,
upright, venerable-looking man, with a long, flow
ing, white beard, and a Turkish robe. The turbid
water was abundant in the river, and overflowed its
banks in all directions. We floated quietly down
with the current until we reached the neighbour
hood of old Memphis, and there we anchored for the
night. Tuts., Oct. 16. — Rose early, and went on deck, when,
in excess of our expectations, we beheld before us a
multitude of Pyramids ; some twelve or more in number.
They were the Pyramids of Geezeh, Sakkara,
Abooseer, Dashdor, and Memphis; and looked, as they
loomed through the maze of the Egyptian atmosphere,
with their vague, vast bulk, like antediluvian things,
or gigantic tenants of a former world. Yet one could
not but remember that busy crowds of toilers — perhaps
of God's own chosen people — had piled them up at
the bidding of despotic kings, and amidst great
suffering ; that solemn trains of priests and heralds of
pomp and power had stalked around them ; and that
the oppressive tyrants who had devised their erection
had passed away to death, — the pale realm of their
imagined Osiris, — in some instances without securing
their own interment in the colossal piles called by
their names. The crowds had also passed away, and
successive crowds of varied visage and speech had
struggled for power by their side, and were now hushed
in death ; but there, before us, were these huge dumb
witnesses of the busy deeds of four thousand years,
with the mantle of eternal silence upon them, seeming

THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 45
to assert for themselves the office of everlasting
guardians of the desert.
We left the vessel for a day's excursion to the
Pyramids of Geezeh, and went over the inundated
country some mile or more in a small boat to a point
of land where we found asses waiting for us : they had
been sent there for us in the night, by our own direc
tion. We had now seven or eight miles to ride on
embankments, in a circuitous and serpentine route,
because of the overflowing waters. On our way we
passed by villages of mud buildings and fields of date-
palms, and met numerous travellers with their loaded
camels and asses; while, on either hand, we saw the
residents of those parts treading their painful way upon
narrow miry paths, or paddling over submerged fields
to their isolated dwellings. In our winding course on
the mud-banks Ishe Pyramids were sometimes before us,
and sometimes behind us ; and sometimes it seemed
that, instead of advancing towards them, we were
leaving them altogether.
Having crossed the inundated country, we reached the
desert, in which we had several miles to ride. The
wide expanse of sand was immeasurable. Tbe heat was
intense, and seemed to pierce to the very brain. I
remained behind to meditate, and the solitude was
awful. The silence that reigned there was of eternity
rather than time; so that one could imagine that the
beat of the pulse could be heard in it. I toiled on
after my wife and some friends from Cairo who had
accompanied us. The blanched surface of the sandy
expanse glared all around under the fiery rays of the
noonday sun, until the reflected and glittering heat
dazed and pained the eyes exceedingly. Before they

46 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX.
arrived at the Pyramids, I overtook my companions;
but I was so spent and exhausted, that I could not even
look upon the massive wonders I had travelled to see.
With trembling limbs, I got down from my worn and
jaded ass, and threw myself into the mouth of an old
gaping tomb, until I should recover my strength ; while
my wife, who had borne the heat better than I, kept
at bay, by determined looks and threats, a crowd of
Arabs, who in their filthy garments thronged near to
minister to me. After an hour's rest, we rode round
the vast structures, and were followed close by noisy
Arabs, who cried incessantly for " backsheesh." Two
gentlemen who were with us, and who were strong
and expert in limb, climbed the great Pyramid of Cheops
with difficulty; but a number of the begging Arabs
ran up to the top before them with the agility of cats.
We went into the mouth of the descending passage
by which this Pyramid is entered ; but did not attempt
to mount the polished stones at the angle, — not ventur
ing upon a climb up successive shelving heights to an
altitude of one hundred and twenty-two feet higher
than St. Paul's, — and that under the vertical rays of
an Egyptian sun.
It was not till we had paced our weary way round
the Pyramids, and viewed them at different points and
groupings, till we had seen a man dwarfed to an insect
in size, at the top of the highest, and, finally, marked
that the human stature was little more than half the
height of the lower tiers of stones with which they are
built, that we realized the vast size of these monster
erections. That type of mystery — the Sphynx — raised
in us, as it has raised in thousands, dumb wonder.
What could we say to it? Carved out of the solid

THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX. 47
limestone rock, of which the Pyramids are built, and
imbedded in the accumulating sand, until its breast and
paws, with the temple they enclose, are entirely buried
out of sight, it still measured more than one hundred
feet from the surface of the plain to the top of its
frittered crown. The face is much mutilated, but it
still bears the expression of calm and dignified repose,
and some of the colouring with which it was originally
covered remains. With its broad and sharply-defined
Nubian lips, and large, elongated eyes, it seemed to
smile sadly, as if at the futile efforts of Cairglia and
others, to wrest from this giant child of the desert the
yellow sand which it has increasingly gathered within
its embrace, during forty centuries.
The great causeway upon which the prepared stones
were brought from the quarries of Toorah and Massarah,
several miles off, for the outer casement of the
Pyramids of Geezeh, on the rock platform here levelled
for them, seems to have been a more marvellous work
than even the Pyramids themselves. This mountain
embankment, made of polished stones and sculptured
with ancient figures, broken in some parts, and hidden
by the drifted sand in others, may still be traced,
stretching its gigantic way across the desert towards
the Nile.
I sketched these wonders from their most impressive
points, amidst the prying gaze of surrounding Arabs,
who eagerly sought to do anything' for me that would
secure to them money payment. Having obtained
coffee, eggs, and cakes, from a village by means of these
Arabs, who fetched them through a full mile of the
flood, and having sung, " Home, sweet home ! " from
the side of the great Pyramid, with our faces towards

48 THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHYNX.
England, and some verses of a hymn on the immuta
bility of God, — much to the astonishment and apparent
delight of the natives, — we distributed among them,
through their sheik, what both he and they said would
satisfy them ; but after we had done so, they still fol
lowed and clamoured for " backsheesh." My friend
the engineer pointed his gun at them, to frighten them
away; but they would not leave us, or cease their
entreaties. He then snatched from one of the stoutest
of them a heavy staff, with which he belaboured them
most unmercifully; but they bore it all in the most
servile manner possible, still hoping to gain a few more
coppers. I gave them more, thinking I should never
see them or the Pyramids again, and being desirous
of leaving them contented and happy; but they still
begged of me, and even more clamorously than ever.
The orb of day was wheeling round to the west, and
descending so low, that the shadows of the Pyramids
spread themselves over miles of the plain. It was,
therefore, time for us to return. We obtained a boat
to convey us part of the way ; then rode on donkeys
some miles to the point were we had left our Arab
sailors in the morning waiting for our return. On
regaining our vessel, we dined with a good appetite,
and slept through the night in our saloon cabin,
dreaming wildly and confusedly of our sights and
exploits during the day.
Wed., Oct. 17. — Floated in our Nile-boat to points
of the swollen river from whence we could see other
Pyramids — Sakkara, Dashdor, Aboose'er, and Memphis.
The site on which stood the ancient Memphis of the
Pharaohs was overflowed with water, through the high
inundation. Moses is said to have been found in the

THE PASHA'S PALACE AND HIS SOLDIERS. 49
ark at the Isle of Roda, but it was more probably here.
We went opposite the vast quarries of Toorah and
Massarah, which are on the eastern side of the river,
and gazed on their huge blocks and excavations. Upon
some of these the names of early and mighty Egyptian
kings may be seen inscribed, with a relation of the
removal of celebrated slabs and monuments there pre
pared. We then returned down the Nile, leaving
Geezeh on our left, and the Isle of Roda and Old
Cairo on our right, passing the Pasha's Palace, which
is large, in the form of two squares, and adorned with
arches and colonnades. The railway runs into its very
court; and when lighted up, after sunset, the building,
with its abundance of windows, looks almost hke the
Crystal Palace by night. Palaces and soldiers are the
Pasha's hobbies. He has several palaces in different
parts ; and he takes with him thirty or forty thousand
soldiers wherever he goes. They are principally young
men, raised by conscription, kept two or three years,
and then sent home without pay. To avoid this
service many used in former times to mutilate their
hands, and to destroy the sight of their eyes ; so that
the number of maimed hands and of one-eyed men in
Egypt is amazing. Such self-disqualification for mili
tary service is now prohibited under severe penalty, and
is thereby discouraged. We saw some thirty thousand
of the Pasha's soldiers enter Cairo one day, returning
with him from his palace in the desert. First came
several rows of pioneers, with aprons and axes; then
the tom-tom band ; then the brass band ; and then foot
and horse soldiers. The infantry were in soiled cotton
uniform, and the cavalry in gay trappings, helmets, and
swords. Then came carriages, with cannon and ammu-
F

50 TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES AND OF MEHEMET ALI.
nition. This order of things was repeated several times
in the march of the Pasha's troops, as they passed before
us towards their barracks by his palace at Old Cairo ;
and it was evidently a show exhibition, got up for effect.
Many of these soldiers were thronging the courts of the
Pasha's Palace, as we sailed by it on our return from the
pyramids, and served to give life and colour to the scene
as we approached Boulak. The sun went down that
evening in fiery vermilion, and flooded the river, its
banks, the palm trees, and the several groups of
pyramids, until, by degrees, the whole picture was
dyed next in deep crimson, and then in red purple, and
changed, lastly, into a colder and more solemn tone.
It was a memorable close to a memorable excursion,
and can never be forgotten by those who witnessed it.
On landing, and driving to our hotel, we found that no
news had arrived of the " Candia," the steamer we had
been daily expecting would reach Suez to convey us to
Ceylon. Thurs., Oct. 18. — Went with Hassan-ain-Effendi to
see the tombs of the Mamelukes, and found the royal
ladies of the Hareem at the family burial-place of Ma-
hommed Ali, close by. The tombs of the Mamelukes
are on an elevated platform, and adorned with pillars,
or upright marble slabs at the ends, bearing Arabic in
scriptions. After examining them, we went to the
celebrated Mosque of Mehemet Ali. It is his family
burial-place, and has within it some gorgeous tombs,
with embroidered blue and green cloth and velvet
coverings. The ladies of the Hareem were still on the
premises, having come there to mourn for the princely
dead; and their sumptuous carriages, with Nubian
attendants, and lounging eunuchs, were waiting for them

MOSLEM WORSHIP. 51
outside. When following our Turkish guides among
the tombs, we heard some laughing voices in the
adjoining court. I stepped hastily to the window to
see who they were, but there were shouts and gestures
of warning to me not to look ; and we were afterwards
informed that the ladies of the Hareem with their white
slaves had been peeping at us from the court-yard,
through the mosque windows, and that their keepers
were alarmed. Of all the sights of Egypt, nothing was
more offensive to me than the huge, turtle-fleshed
eunuchs who had the guardianship of higher-class
women. It is true that, in mere physique, some of them
were large, grand men. But they looked so bloated
and dead-eyed, and were so brutally haughty and over
bearing, that one could only feel disgust for ' them.
This feeling was deepened by some things that we heard
of their conduct towards the ladies of the Hareem, — and
which one cannot repeat.
Frid., Oct. 19. — At noon rode up to the Mosque at
the Citadel, it being the great day of the week for
Moslem worship — the Mahommedan Sabbath. We
were permitted to enter, on pulling off our shoes at the
threshold of such holy ground, and on the payment of
"backsheesh" for cloth coverings to our feet. This
mosque is a huge structure, standing on a levelled plat
form of the rock, high up above all other buildings, at
the back of the city. Its plan is a square, with tall,
slender minarets at the angles, and with a large court in
front, surrounded with a corridor, and having a superb
fountain in the centre. The whole of this is in Oriental
alabaster, except the outer walls. The mosque itself is
covered with an immense dome. The interior is sump
tuously fitted up with arabesque ornaments, coloured
f 2

52 VIEW OF CAIRO FROM THE CITADEL.
windows, Turkey carpets, and with hundreds of swing
ing glass lamps in radiating circles. On the right
corner, as you enter, is the tomb of Mehemet Ali, the
founder, covered and adorned within its screen with the
richest colours. The worshippers under the lofty dome
were numerous. When I entered, they were seated upon
the carpeted floor, without their slippers, and in their
white turbans, listening to an Imaum, or priest, who
was addressing them from a side gallery-like pulpit.
Afterwards the priest came down, approached the cen
tral niche at the far side, looking towards Mecca, and
prayed, when all prostrated themselves with their fore
heads upon the ground, and responded, until the
murmur of their worship seemed to make the place
tremble. The Mahommedans were evidently jealous of
our presence, and eyed us askance with fiery glances ;
but I sketched a plan of their proud building, notwith.
standing their fiery looks.
Through the court in front, and stepping a few paces
beyond, we reached the spot where Emin Bey despe
rately leaped on horseback over the parapet some forty
feet down, and saved his life at the well known massacre
of the Mamelukes. In the front of the mosque, from
the projecting platform of the foundation-rock, is a
commanding view of Grand Cairo and its surrounding
neighbourhood. Immediately below are the massive
buildings of the arsenal, with the splendid mosque of
Sultan Hassan on the right, and the mosques and tombs
of the Mamelukes on the left. Around these is the
vast, mingled mass of city streets and buildings, not
pressed downwards by the heavy mounds of numerous
domes as in the Turkish cities of Europe, but lifted up
lightly towards heaven by innumerable lofty minarets,

DEPARTURE. 53
which gleam and glitter, with their golden crescents, like
brilliant stars of the early evening. Beyond this, on
the one hand, flows from Sakkara in the south, to the
point of the Delta in the north, the broad, shining
river, fringed on both shores to some distance with rich
green verdure, and bordered with palms ; and on the
other hand, beyond the city walls and gates is the vast,
level desert, with the cathedral -like tombs of the Caliphs
in its midst. And all this is viewed, not under a glaring
light which distracts you, as when looking upon great
cities of the west ; but under a soft, balmy, mellowing
light of creamy transparency,. which smooths down all
rigid lines, and blends the whole into harmonious
dreaminess, such as has been most successfully given in
the mysterious colouring of Claude and Turner. In
deed, Egypt, and especially as seen from an elevated
stand-point like the Citadel, and under the tints of a
golden purple sunset, is the most perfect dreamland
that can be visited by the European traveller. It is the
true field for imagination, being, with all its picturesque
and glittering objects, and its dreamy light, the seat of
early fable and history, the birthplace of art, science,
and poetry, and the cradle of philosophy and learning.
Sun., Oct. 20. — We left Cairo by rail for Suez to sail
by the " Columbian," as the " Candia " had not arrived.
We sat for a time with our backs towards the engine,
that we might see the mosques, minarets, and pyramids
of the city which had so deeply interested us, as long as
possible. They gradually faded from our view, and were
at length wholly lost in the red, dusky haze of an
Egyptian atmosphere. We turned to the scene imme
diately around us. Our way was through the great
desert, and it seemed a real desecration of the solitude
f 3

54 THE DESERT RAILWAY.
which had dwelt there through successive ages, for our
screeching engine to rush furiously over it, dragging a
train of hollow-sounding carriages, with their eager,
living contents. But there was nothing to disturb in
our course. No animals ; no birds ; and no wind.
There was no danger of our scattered sparks setting fire
to grass or corn; for there was not a tuft or a blade
of vegetation to be seen. There needed no guardsmen
at crossings ; no gatekeepers ; for there was not a living,
moving thing to be seen, except here and there some
straggling Bedouins, with their patient, plodding camels,
until we reached the midway station, provided by the
Pasha for the refreshment of travellers, and where some
two or three Europeans were to be seen among the
attendants. As we progressed, the hot atmosphere
became very oppressive, and trembled over the sandy
expanse around like the quivering film over lime-kilns.
The delusive mirage now fantastically played its tricks
before us, as we rushed along. It expanded into bright,
blue lakes, bordered with clustered groves, and glittered
at different points with mimic waves. The vision then
receded, dissolved, reunited, and combined again with
fresh forms, and at length faded away altogether. Near
Suez we passed two or three mud villages of the meanest
and most desolate kind ; and the natives came out of
their filthy hovels to gaze upon us, almost naked. We
wound round by some dark, rocky mountains, and by
four, p.m., we reached Suez, where there is a fortification
and a few desolate houses. We dined in the large,
quadrangular court of the European hotel, belonging to
the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and where they
charged an extravagant price for a scanty dinner. In
the evening we left, with our luggage, by a small

SUEZ, AND EMBARKATION ON THE RED SEA. 55
steamer, for the " Columbian," which was some two
miles from us. We steered our serpentine course amidst
the dangerous shoals at the head of the Red Sea, by
floating lights sent out for the occasion, and placed at
certain points. Arriving at our ship so late, with a
crowd of passengers beyond what the vessel could
accommodate with a prospect of anything like comfort,
there was no little noise and scuffle on board ; but as
soon as a cabin had been allotted us by the purser, we
went to it, and retired for the night — not to sleep, but
to rest ourselves as best we could in our coffin-like
berths.

56

CHAPTER III.
Passage down the Eed Sea — Aden — Monsoons — Ceylon — Eich Scenery —
Native Schools — Matura — Animal and Vegetable Life — Buddhist
Temples— Dress of the Singhalese — Dondra Head — Methodism in
Ceylon — Constellation of the " Cross " — Morotoo — Preaching to the
Singhalese — Mr. Gogerly — Kandy — Buddha's Foot and Tooth — Open
ing of a Wesleyan Chapel for the Singhalese — Their Liberality and
Devotion — Earewell — Ee-embarkation.

Oct. 21. — Rose early, and on opening our
cabin door found men, women, and children, with black
and white nurses, lying on the floor of the passages
around, and giving a most camp-like appearance to
things between the decks. We picked our way to the
staircase, and climbed up speedily into the open air,
being anxious to escape from the suffocating atmosphere
below, and also to look upon the coast scenery of the
Red Sea. On deck we found a crowd of passengers
complaining of the insufficient accommodation they had
had through the night. Some were very loud and
boisterous in their complaints, and angrily threatened
protests against the Peninsular- and Oriental Company
for ill-treatment and fraud. One, a military gentleman,
going out for command in Ceylon, declared that he would
report the whole affair to the " Horse- Guards \" This
somewhat amused us ; and we were ready to ask, if he
would not have the Directors of the Company tried by
court-martial, and punished at the halberts. In one
sense there was reason for complaint, inasmuch as very

PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 57
high fares had been paid, with the expectation of good
accommodation ; and though soldiers may be willing to
" camp out " on hard and scanty beds when on the
march, and travellers generally may be willing to
" rough it " in the bush, yet when comfortable sleeping
room has been purchased at large cost, and is not pro
vided, no wonder that men irritated by nausea and sea
sickness should complain. We did not, however, join
the complainants; for though we had not the cabin-
comfort paid for and expected, yet we believed the
officers of the Company to have done the best they
could in the circumstances. The " Candia " had broken
down in her way from Aden to Suez, as we afterwards
learned, and on her non-arrival at port the " Colum
bian," one of the Company's steam -ships there for
troops and not for passengers, was hastily fitted up to
receive us. This was the best that could be done in the
emergency ; and when men have done their best, it is
vain to complain — though with an overcrowded ship,
not the most clean, nor best provisioned, the passage
down the Red Sea, where some preceding us, with more
ample accommodations, had recently died under the in
tensity of the heat, was not pleasing. By degrees, how
ever, the noise of complainants subsided, frowns relaxed,
and gave way to smiles ; and our companions on board
submitted to their condition, and became agreeable and
cheerful. There were no seats provided on deck for the
passengers, not even so much as a hen-coop. It seemed
to be taken for granted that all would bring with them
their own chairs. Most of the old travellers had done
so, but novices in the route had expected to find forms
or benches awaiting them. They, however, who had
nothing but the deck, or the rope-platform at the stern

58 PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA.
to rest upon, packed themselves up with cushions and
rugs, and made the best of their circumstances.
We had passed in the night the part of the Red Sea
where the Israelites are supposed to have crossed from
Egypt to the wilderness, before the pursuit by Pharaoh
and his host ; so that in going we were deprived of a
sight eagerly desired, and we could only hope to realize-
it on our return. We could see on our left the Sinaitic
range of mountains, red and bald, as if they had passed
through fire, and then cooled down again, standing
against the blue sky in bold relief, and resting upon a
flat shore of yellow sand, which had not a bit of verdure,
or a living thing of any kind upon it ; but which con
trasted finely with the dark indigo colour of the water
that margined its long, horizontal line. We could not
see the " Mount of God," from whence the Law, with
all its dread accompaniments, was given. It was more
easterly in the Sinaitic range than could be seen from
our line of passage, except under peculiar circumstances
of the atmosphere. Some lofty, conical peaks gleamed
out in the white heat of the distance, and some affirmed
these to be the veritable mountains of Serbal and Sinai ;
but we could not confidently receive the affirmation.
Notwithstanding the confusion and disquietude of our
over-crowded ship we contrived to hold two religious
services in the saloon during the day, and they were
well attended by the passengers and the crew. A
clergyman of the Establishment, proceeding as a mis
sionary to India, took part with me in conducting the
services. We had on board the " Columbian " nearly
four hundred souls in all. Among the passengers were
military officers of rank, returning with their wives and
families to their regiments ; scions of the nobility, going

PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 59
to Madras for the shooting season ; and merchants with
their families, returning to Calcutta, Hong-Kong, and
other parts of India and China, after a sojourn in their
native land to recruit health. Among all classes of
passengers on this route we found the Scotch prepon
derate. Several sea-sick, languishing young ladies, who
seemed to have no objections to kindly attentions from
young gentlemen, and who could give no better account
of their errand to the eastern world than that their
brothers and cousins had sent for them to go thither, —
ceased, after awhile, to exact compassion, and, like every
body else, grew heartily cheerful, and made sport of the
very inconveniences and discomforts of which they had
at first distressingly complained. The greater number
of the crew were dark-coloured Lascars; and it was
pleasing on the Sunday to see them in their clean cotton
dresses, and gay sashes and turbans : but we felt it odd
to see them at meal times taking up their curries with
their fingers from open, salver-like dishes, around which
they gathered. At sunset theMahommedans among them
might be seen bowing down upon the deck in profound
reverence towards Mecca. It seemed strange to behold
such devotion in men of their class ; and we were ready
to inquire, When will British sailors show themselves
as devout for the religion of Christ ? The Lascars let
themselves out for hire in companies, under their elected
head-man or captain ; and it is amusing to see the strut
and swagger of some of these native chiefs, and to hear
their loud and shrieking whistle of authority. One of
these was our pilot down the Gulf, and seemed a
most careful watcher of our course both by day and
night. Mon., Oct. 22. — Lost sight of land on both sides.

60 PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA.
Increasingly hot. Prayer-meeting at noon. Most
of the passengers slept on deck at night, but we
kept to our cabin for retirement, though the heat of the
atmosphere below was almost suffocating, and the cease
less plaintive cries of suffering children around us were
distressing. Tues., Oct. 23. — Breeze on the open sea, which
somewhat tempered the heat, and made it bearable.
Wed., Oct. 24. — Heat very oppressive. The fierce
rays of the sun penetrated the double awning stretched
over us ; and, at times, when a breath of wind came
upon us from the coast, it was so heated by the desert
over which it had come, as to seem like the breath of
a furnace. Our drinking-water from the condenser
was too hot for use. Much bitter beer was taken by
the passengers, but it only seemed to increase their
thirst, and they lay faint and languishing from morningto
evening. In the afternoon we passed the remarkable rocks
of long table form, named the " Two Brothers," which
stand up from the sea a considerable height, about half
way down from Suez to Aden, and near to each other-
At the close of the day the sun went down in fiery
splendour, and made the whole scene appear as if
ready to burst forth with flame. The atmosphere of
the night was fearful, and one could hardly think of
continued life until the morning. The thinnest night
dresses seemed too heavy for coverings ; and as for
sheets, or quilts, they were discarded by all.
Thurs., Oct. 25. — Several islands on the right.
Our passage between the coasts narrowed itself quickly;
and now we were in the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, at
the south-eastern neck of the Red Sea. This . was
known to be the most perilous passage in our course ;

PASSAGE DOWN THE RED SEA. 61
and it was no relief to be told that if the ship were to
founder upon any of the shoals of that part, and the
passengers were to make their way to the coast on
either side, death or slavery would be their inevitable
doom. Rain fell, so that we could not see our way ;
and as Arab pilots steer by sight principally, our
steamer stopped her engines for a considerable time,
and remained stationary. The moistness of the heated
atmosphere below steamed as in a scullery ; and we had
to lie on the cabin floor for as much air as could be
obtained. Frid., Oct. 26. — A fresh breeze sprang up, and in
some degree moderated the heat. Rain fell copiously,
and the weather became rough, and even boisterous.
We had passed in the night Mooshedjerah, where the
"Alma" was wrecked in 1859. Some of the pas
sengers of that ill-fated vessel were with us, and made us
shudder with the recital of their privations and suffer
ings. Late in the evening the high, conical peaks
of Aden frowned upon us; and before midnight we
had anchored in the harbour, to remain there, for a
fresh supply of coals, until noon of the next day.
Solemn darkness shrouded the scene, and the points
of light gleaming in different directions on sea and
shore, with the wild screaming of unseen natives in
unseen boats around, rendered our position mysteriously
impressive. Sat., Oct. 27. — On deck early, to see the scenery and
the natives. The volcanic region of Aden looked grim
and grand. It has been aptly described by Sir Charles
Napier as "a gigantic cinder;" and consists of high
conical scorched hills, without a particle of verdure
on any portion of them. One large sugar-loaf moun.
G

62 ADEN.
tain is covered with loose shingle as black as coal.
A mass of high jagged peaks of lighter colour, broken
down in parts, and looking like the shattered crust of
an old exploded crater, assumes the form of a walled-
up fortification; and this appearance is strengthened
by a signal-flag being placed upon it. Between two
of these conical elevations are coal- stores for the
steamers. The post-office, shops, and stores, are near
the water's edge, while above and beyond are rugged
hills and heaps with buildings and sheds upon them,
scattered here and there. The British flag, on a mast
of great height, is beheld on one of the hills near the
shore. Several British ships of war are kept here.
On the narrow roads by the beach, at the foot of
the surrounding hills, were seen stalking camels with
their burdens, and asses, with boy drivers. Boats of
all shapes and sizes were being rowed towards us by
wild black men, almost naked, and their heads covered
and surrounded with matted and stringed red hair,
as bulgy and hive-like in form as the immense head-
coverings of the cannibal Fijians. They jabbered and
gesticulated most vociferously ; and they leaped into the
water and dived down to amazing depth after money
thrown to them, notwithstanding the numerous fierce
sharks which frequent the harbour. They brought beau
tiful pieces of coral, broken from the reefs under water,
and picturesque baskets with coverlids, tastefully striped
and ingeniously interwrought with white, red, and
black bamboo. Greasy clad Arab Jews, who stank
of dirt, and cleanly respectable-looking Parsees, said
to have the best commerce of the place, came on board,
with black and white ostrich feathers, Indian-wrought
boxes, and tortoiseshell curiosities for sale, and pre-

ADEN. 63
vailed on passengers to make purchases at prices for
their articles far above those of London or Paris.
Huge barges, laden with bags of coal for our steamer,
were drawn by ropes towards us, surrounded and sur
mounted with crowds of natives, powdered thickly with
coal-dust, and looking, in the distance, like swarms
of baboons, or large monkeys. The Arabs all were
abjectly civil to us, hoping to receive money recom-
pence for being so ; but it is well knowu that if a
European advance beyond the British boundary into
their own region, his life is unrelentingly taken by these
red-haired descendants of Ishmael. They are exceed
ingly jealous of the English having any foothold in
their arid country, and think it is only by the special
favour of the Turkish Sultan we are allowed to enter
the bay, or to hold the garrison of Aden ; believing
him to be the supreme ruler among men. I remained,
and sketched Aden, while most of our passengers went
on shore, and then set scampering off on hired don
keys to the cantonment, or principal township,
some three miles away round the hills behind us.
On returning, they told strange things of the bamboo-
built houses and bazaars of the town ; and seemed
to have been much interested with the commanding
fortifications of the garrison. Aden is another impor
tant link in the chain of British possessions stretch
ing onwards towards India, and has been fitly described
as "the Gibraltar of the East." We had finished
" coaling " by two o'clock ; and as we ran out swiftly to
sea, our steamship bore, in passing, upon the outstanding
bowsprit of a large ship, and snapped it in a moment,
as if it had been as brittle as a carrot. We saw, as
we left the harbour, the Arabian desert on our right,
g 2

64 MONSOONS.
with its bald, rocky mountains and vast plains of
sand, all reeking in the white heat. A fine breeze
filled our sails and quickened our speed ; and we had
a most favourable passage out towards the Indian
Ocean. Sun., Oct. 28. — A fine morning, and the fishes sport
ing in " a sea of glass like unto crystal." The vast ex
panse of water shone like a polished mirror, under the
pure blue sky, and seemed, in the language of poor
Byron, to " glass the Almighty's form " all around us !
It appeared the shining image of His immensity ! We
had service in the saloon as usual.
Mon., Oct. 29. — Passed Cape Guardafui, and then
the Island of Socotia. Sunset was gorgeous.
Tues., Oct. 30. — Serene, calm morning, with a bright
silvery light. No land anywhere in sight. Flying
fishes leaping out of the water, gliding in the air a con
siderable distance, and then dipping again into the
sea. Wed., Oct. 31. — Another calm morning; but clouds
gathered in the afternoon, and rain fell in heavy heaps
and torrents ; so that we could not remain on deck
without being wet through. And when driven down
into the saloon, it seemed as if a deluge of waters was
falling in lumps upon the deck overhead. The weighty
falls of rain actually made our steamer stagger again
and tremble. It was difficult to conceive how the
vacuities produced in the African and Arabian deserts
by the swallowing-up heat of the sun could so disturb
the atmosphere at such a distance over the sea, and
cause such descending torrents of waters.
Thurs., Nov. 1. — Monsoons continued. Rains fell
very heavily, and hindered us greatly in our course.

CEYLON. 65
Frid., Nov. 2. — Fine, fresh morning. Sea calm, and
in colour rich ultramarine. Good speed of eleven knots
per hour.
Sat., Nov. 3. — Monsoons in the morning; but they
cleared off by noon, and the remainder of the day was
fine. Sun., Nov. 4. — Exceedingly warm. Divine service on
deck, under the awning. The scene was deeply impres
sive, and the singing seemed to ring upon the vast ex
panse of the Indian Ocean. At noon it was reported
that we were two hundred and fifty miles from Point de
Galle, in Ceylon.
Mon., Nov. 5. — Brisk, fresh morning, but not able to
reach Galle to enter the harbour before sunset; so
slackened our speed, that we might ride safely for the
night outside the dangerously projecting reefs. Awoke
in the night, and saw huge black rats in the cabin ; so
got no more sleep, though I left my berth on the floor,
and climbed up into a higher one — having an instinctive
horror of rats.
Tues., Nov. 6. — Reached Point de Galle by six in the
morning. The harbour picturesque and impressive. We
made our way round fortified rocks, and amidst coral
reefs, to the principal basin of the harbour, from whence
we had to land in small boats. The sea was as blue as
sapphire, and broke with white foam upon the rocks and
strand, and the rich green palm trees bent their lofty
forms inwards, and overshadowed the water in every
direction ; while over them in the distance were nume
rous blue and purple hills of every variety of form.
Several vessels and steamships were lying around us ;
some with French troops on board, going to China ; and
in front of us, near the shore, rose out of the water the
g 3

66 NATIVE SCHOOLS.
upper masts of a ship recently foundered there. The
Rev. John Scott, our missionary, came on board. We
obtained a boat, and landed in Ceylon by eight. The
scene on the pier was strange to us. The natives, who
crowded around, were, for the most part, upright, well-
made figures of rich bronze colour, with jet black hair,
turned up before and behind, and fixed in a coil at the
top of the head with large tortoiseshell combs. They
were unclad to the loins, where they wore a wrapper
of white and coloured cotton, which hung down to their
naked feet, like a long petticoat. They had little or no
beards, or hair of any kind upon the face ; and, with
earrings dangling on many of them, they had a very
effeminate appearance. We really took them all, at
first, to be women ! We passed quickly through the
Custom-house, and drove up in a cab-like carriage,
having Venetian blinds, to be accommodated to the
direction of the sun, to Richmond Hill, where our
Mission premises stand, surrounded with very striking
scenery. Cocoa-nut trees, jungle, and pleasant hills
were in our neighbourhood, and richly clothed hills, with
the conical mountain of Adam's Peak beyond, were in
the distance. We could see heathen temples on several
of the elevations around us, and could hear the tom
toms of numerous devil-worshippers. Indeed, on our
passage from the beach to the Mission premises we had
met several processions of Buddhists, with their showy
dresses and discordant music.
After breakfast went to the Mission school on the
hill, — a good building, shaded by verandahs all round.
Found there a native minister and a native schoolmaster,
with some sixty Singhalese children, who were taught
to read and speak English as well as their own Ian-

MATURA. 67
guage. Heard some of the boys read a lesson on astro
nomy ; then examined them on their conceptions of
God, who made the heavens, and on what they knew
of the way of salvation. Their understanding of Divine
things, as well as their general intelligence, was most
gratifying. In the evening preached to a native con
gregation, through an interpreter, our excellent native
minister, Rev. G. E. Goonewardene. The assembly was
novel and impressive. The women in their white dresses,
the higher class men with combs in their hair, the Dutch
burghers, with the solemn darkness open to us from the
verandah around, were all Rembrandtic in effect.
Wed., Nov. 7. — Went to Matura, driving through the
Fort of Galle, which, apart from the barracks and
Government buildings, is but a large village of mud
streets and squat houses. As we passed through the
town the natives strove to tempt us into purchases of
their tortoiseshell ornaments, mock precious stones, and
lacquered jewelry. We saw in the streets much variety
of race and costume. There were European officials in
loose clothing, covering themselves with large cotton
umbrellas ; there were Singhalese natives, clothed as I
have described; and the women, some of them prema
turely old and very ugly, in white jackets : there were
Moors and Mussulmen in turbans and yellow coverings,
carrying japanned paper umbrellas : there were Malabars
and Malays, and Buddhist priests with shaven heads
and saffron robes ; and mingled with these were English
soldiers in cotton uniform, and native chiefs in gay,
embroidered dresses, and jewelled ornaments. On
quitting the town, we skirted along the side of the
harbour, passed by the crowded market-places, and
entered a splendid avenue of tall cocoa-nut trees, over-

68 ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE LIFE.
arching the road, and rendering it pleasantly cool. The
natives, like living bronzes, and in their pink, yellow,
red, blue, and white costumes, thronged the road, and,
blending with the green foliage, formed a gay and
pleasing picture. We saw many long snakes in our
way, and several cameleons. Sometimes the guano — a
large, green lizard, three or four feet long : a pre-adamite
looking reptile, but little afraid of man — ran across our
way, or dragged up its length on the banks at the road
side. There were beautiful openings of the sea-coast at
intervals, with masses of snow-white coral strewing the
shore. As we advanced, innumerable insects of various
kinds thronged the air, and filled it with a perpetual
hum. Among these were large, gorgeous butter
flies, and huge dragon-flies, of bright metallic
lustre; while ever and anon would come boom
ing on their short wings lustrous beetles of rainbow
hues. The dark natives . were turning their cocoa-nut
mills under shady trees, at the sides of the road,
or working in the open " paddies " or rice-fields.
Long, slender cranes were standing in pools, and
buffaloes, like huge black pigs, were luxuriating in deep
soft mud. Gay flowers, of bright yellow and deep
crimson, on trees, and not on mere bushes, lined the
way ; and a vast variety of orchids climbed the boles of
the palms, and entwined themselves gracefully around
them. Trees with roots above ground, — seeming formed
of writhing snakes, — were seen at intervals ; as also the
drooping banyan tree, with its long, rope-like roots
descending from its branches. We passed a gigantic
figure of Buddhu, carved out of the rock by the wayside,
and reached Belligam in the forenoon, when the heat
had become very oppressive, and when the hum of in-

BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 69
sects had ceased, and all living things had retired for
rest into the shade. At Belligam there is a "Rest-
house," provided by the Government for travellers, — as
there is at certain distances on all the high roads of
Ceylon. In these " Rest-houses " needful refreshment
can be had at appointed prices. While the ladies re
clined under the shade, and breakfast was being prepared,
Mr. Scott and I went forth to see the village, our chapel
and school in it, and some Buddhist temples.
The village of Belligam, like other villages of Ceylon,
is picturesque and pleasing, with its luxuriant foliage
overhanging mud-built dwellings, thatched with the
feather-like branches of coeoa-nuts. We went down a
lane-kind of street, overshadowed by cocoa-nuts, in which
we found our native school and our native chapel. The
children were few in the school, for dysentery had
thinned them ; no uncommon thing in the schools of
the island. I sketched the chapel by the roadside. We
saw a somewhat rude Buddhist temple, as we passed,
with its tall dome covering some pretended relics ; but
at a distance of some quarter of a mile over the fields, in
the direction of Galle, we visited a celebrated temple,
and examined it carefully. Ascending by broad steps,
we reach a large, elevated court-yard, surrounded by an
embattled wall, skirted by cocoa-nuts. As we enter,
there is a large Bo, or sacred tree on the left, over
shadowing the seat or surrounding platform, built up
with its roots, which are above ground. A high, sugar-
loaf structure encloses some reported relics of Buddhu,
named the Dogeba. Within is a tall, niched flower-
altar ; and in the middle, on the far side of the court, is
the temple — a common Italian-tiled building. You find
yourself now in the very "chambers of imagery,"

70 BUDDHIST TEMPLES.
gaudily coloured with yellow figures illustrative of the
life of Buddhu, and with rude, purgatorial exhibitions
of punishments for the unfaithful. Within the inner
chamber there reclines at full length the yellow-coloured
figure of Buddhu, eighteen cubits, or twenty-seven feet,
long, in somewhat rude wooden workmanship. At the
sides are vermilion and gold coloured figures of Buddhu
and Vishnu, of human stature. Before these are tables,
or altars, with flower offerings upon them, fresh plucked
in the day, and placed there by poor, deluded votaries.
Some were there at the time, presenting their flowers ;
and as I stood in the midst within a heathen temple for
the first time in my life, a shuddering horror came over
me. I felt no patience with the yellow-robed priests
about me ; they seemed ministers in the very precincts
of hell. Adjoining the court are the dwellings of the
priests, who constitute a college or ecclesiastical estab
lishment of Buddhu. We silently paced our way back
to the " Rest-house," and felt a grateful relief in gazing
upon the fine open bay, with its coral strand.
Resumed our drive to Matura at four. There were
lovely openings to the sea on our right. Our road was
a deep chocolate, darker than the soil, which harmon
ized well with the green luxuriant foliage. Sometimes
we passed through cuttings of the rocks, and then
caught glimpses of well-moulded hills covered with
lofty trees and shubbery, and resembling the " Green
Mountains " in the Northern States of America.
Again, and again we passed through long avenues of
tall cocoa-nut trees, bending over crowds of native
pedestrians in their many-coloured costumes. At
intervals all along the road, in front of the native huts,
were fine plump children playing — boys and girls, full

DRESS OF THE SINGHALESE. 71
of quirk and fun as Reynolds's Puck. The girls had
bracelets of a white shining metal around their wrists
and ankles, and sometimes around their loins : other
wise they were perfecty nude. The faces of men and
women upon the road were often not so pleasing, owing
to their chewing a composition of tobacco with a sort
of white paste, wrapped up in a green leaf. Through
pressure in the mouth a red liquid is produced, and
this gives a bloody appearance to it, and destroys the
teeth. In other respects the natives were cleanly and
decently clad. We met and saw, towards the end of
our day's journey upon the road, several bullock-
waggons, vehicles covered with cocoa-nut leaves, after
the manner of an English carrier's tilted cart, but
lower, narrower, and larger in proportion. They were
each drawn by two oxen of small size. In some
instances we met a carriage for one or two persons,
drawn by one small bullock of surpassing speed. We
reached Matura soon after five o'clock; Mr. Eaton
having sent us a pony carriage, attended by a native
runner in gay costume. Our native minister, Daniel
Henry Pereira, received us very hospitably. We were
delighted with the fine, spacious Mission premises.
But as we sat at our eastern dinner served up in
native fashion, in a verandah open to the garden and
broad river beyond, with the dim lamps swinging over
our heads, and the native servitors gliding in stealthily,
out ofthe dusk, from among the clumps of palm trees, we
were a little startled to hear that there were large deadly
snakes in the garden beneath our feet, and that in
the river at the bottom of it, but a few yards distant,
the savage combats of huge alligators, and the snapping
of their fell teeth, were often heard ! It was a more

72 DONDRA HEAD.
pleasing subject of reflection, that on these Mission
premises had resided brave pioneers of Christian truth
who have since gone to their eternal reward.
Thurs., Nov. 8. — We journeyed from Matura to
Dondra, along a good road by the sea- side for a few
miles, and reached the house of the native missionary.
He was from home, among his people; so we drove
round to Dondra Head, the extreme south point of
Ceylon. A long avenue of cocoa-nut palms conducted
us to a line of square pillars, each eight or nine feet
high, extending from a Hindu temple, the remains of
which are still standing here by the sea. The remains
of this temple show that it has been originally for
Hindu, and not Buddhist, worship. It has had a
central way, with side-aisles formed of upright pillars,
and has extended as much as two miles in length.
At the upper part, most distant from the sea, there
has been a sort of transept, or cross, formed by similar
pillars ; and beyond this there is still standing in front
ofthe temple ground a curious old gateway, covered
with sculptured Hindu figures and ornaments. The
rest of the original temple is gone ; but a plain modern
building has been put up; and at certain festivals
Hindu worshippers repair to it from afar, and' make
much noise and show around it, as a most sacred
place. There are mounds and pillars in the court
yard, and in front is a very old stone with an inscrip
tion upon it in a learned language, which few can read.
The pillars, gate, and stone, are of grey granite. At
the left corner of the old court is a Buddhist temple,
made up in parts of the figures and fragments taken
from the Hindu temple. The scene from the rocks
and boulders in the sea, at the extreme south of the

DONDRA HEAD. 73
island, that is, at Dondra Head, is very beautiful.
Coral reefs stretch far into the sea, against which the
pure blue water foams and splashes. Palms crown the
shores down to the edge of the island, and border it
most gracefully ; while beyond, inwards, are forest and
jungle, grand in colour, and in their vast extent. The
natives came out of their huts, and gazed curiously
upon me, as I sketched these things ; and seemed filled
with wonder as they saw their familiar scenery copied
and coloured before them. - We returned to the native
minister's house, who, with his newly- converted sister
residing with him, gave us a cheerful welcome. We
went into the school-room, just by, and killed there a
centipede on the floor. The missionary told us that
cobras and the most deadly serpents were numerous in
the neighbourhood ; that leopards were seen at times
in the adjoining jungle, where there were also troops
of monkeys, and plenty of paroquets. On the coral
shore of the sea before us the turtle is taken in
abundance. We conversed at length upon the state ofthe Mission
in that part, found that it had been injured by extreme
jealousy of demon worship on the part of one of our
agents; and, after giving counsel on the matter, we
returned to Matura. On our way we climbed " Brown's
Hill," on the left, and had a fine panorama of the
surrounding country and of the sea. Descending, we
visited another Buddhist temple, ruder and more
modern than the one at Belligam, and which has
adjoining a temporary wooden erection for festivals.
Reached Matura as the sun was setting in solemn
grandeur behind the large dark trees. We took a
boat at the bridge, and were rowed to the garden of
H

74 WELCOME TEA-MEETING.
the Mission-premises in time for evening service in the
chapel. The building could not contain the congrega
tion, composed of English residents, Dutch burghers,
and Singhalese; and there were many outside in the
verandah and in the street. The audience seemed to
enter very heartily into the spirit of worship, notwith
standing the most soaking heat and the musquitoes.
Frid., Nov. 9. — Returned to Belligam ; met there
our native Catechist, and conversed with him on hia
work. He is all but alone as a Christian teacher in
the village ; and related to me several instances of the
cunning of the Buddhist priests to keep the people
from him. He preaches in the chapel, teaches daily
in the school, and visits the natives in their houses.
Some, but not many, treat him with ridicule ; and the
priests set watchers against the chapel, to see who
enter it, and then to injure such in their temporal
circumstances. On leaving BeUigam we overtook a
marriage procession. The bride was borne in one of
three palanquins in front, and at some distance behind
was the bridegroom. The woman was attended by a
crowd of native females gaily dressed ; and the man by
his male friends, dressed up in blue European-looking
coats, gilt buttons, breast belts, and swords. The
bridegroom had more ornaments than the others. On
the road we also saw natives at work under the trees
and elsewhere, breaking up cocoa-nut, and drying it in
the open air, and pressing out the oil in rude mills
turned as on the pivot-cup by oxen or men. We
reached Richmond Hill by half-past five, and had a
welcome tea-meeting in the school-room at six. This
tea-meeting had . been spontaneously provided by the
natives for Mrs. Jobson and myself, as an expression

CONSTELLATION OF THE " CROSS." 75
of their esteem for us and for the churches from which we
had come. The room was most tastefully decorated
with the various flowers and fruits of the island, as
well as with emblematic figures and forms suited to
the occasion. The company filled the place. Around
us, at the upper end, sat native women in clean white
and gay coloured dresses, and adorned with ear-rings
and bracelets. Beyond them sat native men, with
large combs upon their heads ; and among them were
Dutch burghers, clad in loose European style ; while,
in the verandah encircling the building, the native
children of the schools were crowded, and peered at
us with their sharp black eyes. The room was lighted
by lamps swung from the rafters of the open roof; and
beyond it was the solemn darkness of the forest and
the jungle. The tea and cakes were good, and were
most courteously handed round by natives who were
officers in our Wesleyan Society. We sang and prayed
together; and afterwards I addressed them on the
social character of Christianity, and on what British
Methodists from whom I had come wished them to be,
as professing members of the church of Christ in
Ceylon. It was a cheerful, happy meeting, and I trust
not without profit to any of us. The excitement of
the evening prevented sleep, and we lay through
the night on our bed at the Mission-house listening
to the chirping of numerous lizards from the open roof
above us.
Sat., Nov. 10. — Took coach from Colombo at five in
the morning and amidst profound darkness, and here
first saw the beautiful constellation of the Cross in the
heavens. For some time we could not see who were
our companions in the coach ; but as the day opened, we
h 2

76 ROAD-SCENERT.
found we had before us a native of high class, wearing
a full Moslem turban, a crimson vest, and a large
signet-ring. Before this, we had found, to our annoy
ance, that he was strongly scented with cocoa-nut oil.
By his side sat a dark-looking Dutch burgher, in a sort
of settler's loose dress. An Englishman and a native
were with the burgher coachman on the box; and a
native guard hung on behind, or rode upon the step at
the side. The horses were rather small; but, being
stallions, were usually restive and ungovernable at
starting. Our road throughout was deeply interesting.
For good part of seventy miles it was in an avenue of
lofty palms, which, at the first, solemnly overshadowed
us. As we proceeded, we perceived fires by huts, where the
natives were cooking their breakfasts, gleaming out in
the distance from among dark cocoa-nut trees. As the
day dawned, fine underwood and creepers, and beautiful
flowers, and banyan trees with branches returning to
the earth and taking root, graced our road on either
side. Several times we crossed creeks and rivers on
wooden bridges; and saw on the water curious canoes
having no iron-work in them, but bound together
wholly by cocoa-nut fibres; and yet in these the
native fishermen venture far out into the sea. Some
of the coves and bays in the coast on our left were
very fine; and amidst bold, rocky scenery we came
upon a large Buddhist temple with a dome. The
shaven priest stood with his broad fan before his eyes,
as if he would have us believe him to be a strict
observer of the rule, — " not to look upon a woman."
The lofty Adam's Peak was seen at a distance on our
right. It seemed to be buttressed and upheld by
numerous surrounding mountains. We breakfasted

ROAD-SCENERY. 77
at Bentotto, on oyster currie and fish; and there
first observed, what we afterwards found to be almost
universal; that the telegraph wire was fastened to the
living cocoa-nut trees, as its supporters along the road.
We turned a little from the sea-shore on leaving
Bentotto, passed through Caltura and came to Mo-
rotto, a village of twelve thousand inhabitants, who
are chiefly carpenters and fishermen. Here I saw our
native minister, and engaged to preach in his chapel
the next Sunday morning. On our way dancing gay
butterflies, and metallic-lustred insects had swarmed
around us. Birds of gaudy plumage had chattered
and sung among the branches, and many bright
green lizards had crawled over the road and up the
trees. Indeed, until we approached the noon of day,
all nature seemed to teem with life. Our road from
Morotto lay through the cinnamon grounds for the
space of several miles; but the air was not at this
period loaded with the perfume of this renowned laurel
so richly as we had been led to expect. After passing
under an old venerable banyan-tree, which overarches
the entire breadth of the road, and drops its roots into
the earth on the other side, we reached Mr. Dalziel's,
the police magistrate at Colpetty, two miles from
Colombo. We were kindly and hospitably received ;
and in the evening were surrounded by friends and
ministers of different denominations. Sadness had
been brought over many minds by the untimely death
of a respected clergyman of the neighbourhood who
had been killed by the falling of a wall upon him, on
his own premises ; but we sought to improve the event
by serious conversation, and by speaking to each other
on the state of religion in the island of Ceylon.
h 3

78 PREACHING TO THE SINGHALESE.
Sun., Nov. 11. — Preached at Morotto in the morn
ing to a Singhalese congregation, through an inter
preter. Our chapel here is a new structure compara
tively ; and, with its pointed arches, gables, buttresses,
and pinnacles, is as good Gothic as many of the
churches and chapels in England. It is seventy-two
feet long, forty-two feet wide; and cost some four
hundred pounds. The central roof of the nave is sup
ported by rows of lofty columns. Towards its erection
the natives had contributed liberally; and one man
in humble circumstances was pointed out to me as
having at very great sacrifice contributed as much as
twenty pounds. The congregation filled the building.
The men were in their native costumes, clean and neat,
and some of them with high combs in their hair ; and
the women were dressed in white and flowered cottons,
muslins, and silks, with bracelets, necklaces, and ear
rings. Our native minister there read Wesley's Abridg
ment of the Liturgy, and the entire congregation
responded earnestly. After the singing of a Methodist
hymn in an English tune, I preached, by interpretation,
on the Mercies of the Lord, and saw several moved
with devout feeling under the truth. At the close of
the service multitudes gathered round me, looking as
if wishful to know whether they might shake hands
with me or not. I greeted them fraternally, and
delivered to them Christian salutations from my
brethren and people in England. The dark, serious
faces of the Singhalese men beamed with pleasure,
and several of the women laughed out, like children,
with joy. Peter Gerhardt de Zylva, our native minis
ter at Morotto, is a good example of what may be
expected by the church from Singhalese preachers and

NATIVE MINISTRY. 79
pastors, under proper direction and training. He has
been labouring with his dark flock for many years ;
and though it has been divided again and again, and
considerable numbers have been given to the charge of
other native ministers, yet he has still in his Circuit,
of Morotto and the neighbourhood, three hundred
and twenty-seven fully accredited church members
under his pastoral care. In the surrounding parts, he
has several chapels, or preaching bungalows, as well as
schools, which he regularly visits; and, perhaps, on
the whole, has as flourishing native churches under his
care as can be found under any minister of his class
in India or in Ceylon. He is somewhat worn by his
labours ; but his grey hairs are a crown of glory to him
in his old age ; and he is venerated and beloved as a
father by his people. He related to me, as we walked
together after the service under the cocoa-nut trees,
several deeply-interesting instances of the conversion
of Buddhists and Buddhist priests which he had
witnessed, and told me of the difficulties and triumphs
of his work. I was sorry to learn from him, and from
others of our native teachers, that high ecclesiasticism
had of late cruelly sought to disturb native converts by
the introduction among them of foolish questions on
priestly authority, and the validity of the sacraments.
In the evening I preached in the large Wesleyan
chapel at Colombo to a crowded congregation of
different denominations.
Mon., Nov. 12. — Spent the day with the Rev. Daniel
John Gogerly, general superintendent of our Missions in
that part of Ceylon, and who resides at Colpetty, a
suburb of Colombo. He is "a noticeable man, with
grey eyes," as poor Hazlitt, in *his boyhood, remarked

80 MR. GOGERLY.
of Coleridge; and much resembles, both in face and
figure, the portraits given us of that " dreamer." But
Mr. Gogerly is most successfully active, both in learn
ing and in practical life. He is acknowledged to be the
best Singhalese scholar on the island ; and, while
preaching several times a week to the natives in their
own language, and superintending the Singhalese press
for the most important books of all kinds, he has mostcare-
fully instructed and trained many ofthe native ministers
and catechists employed in the seventeen circuits spread
over the south-west parts of Ceylon. He has thoroughly
studied the works of Buddhu, and has mastered the
system of Buddhism, as far as it can be comprehended
with its numerous inconsistencies. He showed me,
with evident delight, a complete copy of the works of
Buddhu, which had been made for him by an intelligent
and learned Buddhist priest, belonging to one of the
chief temples ; and out of which he refutes the advocates
of the atheistical system, from their own standards. He
explained the system of Buddhu to me, and showed me
its contradictions in scientific teaching, and its imposi
tions upon the deluded Buddhist worshippers. He also
showed me his quarterly returns of the missionary work
under his care. They are kept in the most exact order ;
and he is minutely and regularly informed of what the
several agents for Methodism are doing in the island.
He took me to the Printing Establishment at Colombo ;
and showed me, on the premises first obtained by our
brave pioneer Missionaries, — Clough, Harvard, Squance,
and others, — native printers at work in their dif
ferent departments upon the Singhalese Scriptures
and school-books which he was then superintend
ing. He is now seventy years of age, and is anxious

KANDY. 81
that some English minister should be prepared for his
place. Tues., Nov. 13. — Rose at half-past three, a.m., and at
five left Colombo by coach for Kandy. Our way at first
lay through low streets, then over a bridge of boats,
then through an avenue of cocoa-nut trees. We passed
many bullock-waggons belonging to Government, and a
dark, ponderous elephant, working on the road. After a
time the country became more hilly, with large, heaved-
up rocks clothed in rich verdure. The bullock-waggons
were drawn by larger animals, white in colour, brought
from the coast of India ; and the scenery, as we advanced,
became increasingly picturesque and romantic, com
bining many of the best features of Matlock, in Derby
shire. We breakfasted at Ambepusse, and the hills
became sterner and larger as we proceeded. Soon
after noontide we entered passes in the mountains,
composed of huge rocks, piled up in fantastic forms,
the trees wrapping their roots around them. High
above the hills there was rich and various verdure ;
down below were deep, tremendous precipices, with here
and there a glimpse of bright pea-green, from the
"paddies," or rice fields. Reached Kandy at half-past
three, p.m. ; was met by the Rev. Mr. Hobbs, Church
Missionary, and Superintendent of the Mission to the
Tamils ; accompanied him to his lovely residence above
the lake, where we had the most kind and fraternal
entertainment. Wed., Nov. 14. — At seven in the morning went with
Mr. Hobbs to Arthur's Seat, to view the scenery of
Kandy and the surrounding country. It was exceed
ingly fine. At the foot of the hill on which we stood is
a large, square lake, with the Government magazine for

82 BUDDHU'S FOOT.
gunpowder in the centre. Beyond it rose the domes of
the celebrated temple of Buddhu; and over these
the Governor's house, with the streets, churches, and
public buildings of the city. Then, around all, were
blue, swelling hills, with fine, bold outlines ; and all were
reflected in the deep, glassy lake below as clearly as
Helvellyn and Catchiedecam are reflected in Ulleswater.
In the forenoon we went to the temple grounds and
grove, and saw the huge impression, in granite, of
Buddhu's foot, as copied from the one on Adam's
Peak, — the sacred relic for which Buddhists make long
pilgrimages from different parts of the east. We also
saw how the emblems of Hindu and devil worship are
there mingled together, the priests submitting to almost
anything that will bring them gains from the people.
Some of the forms, both of the temple and the grove,
were antique and picturesque; but it filled the mind
with horror to think of the delusions which had there
been so long practised on redeemed and immortal
beings. At noon we went to the Rev. Mr. O's, the elder
clergyman at Kandy, and conversed with him on the
moral and religious necessities of the place. We also
visited a higher class school belonging to his church, con
ducted by the Rev. Mr. Jones, an Irish evangelical clergy
man, and examined the youths in the Scriptures, and in
various departments of learning. We found them well
instructed, and able to answer, with readiness and
accuracy, the various questions proposed to them. In
the evening we attended the Church service, and heard
an excellent sermon from Mr. O. Afterwards we
went again to the temple to see the renowned casket
which encloses, as it is said, Buddhu's tooth ; but the
priests would not admit us ; and only said, in answer to

OPENING OF A NEW CHAPEL. 83
our requests, " Come again to-morrow ! " We slept at
the hotel, to be ready for the coach early in the morn
ing ; but we were sadly tormented by musquitoes from
the lake near us.
Thurs., Nov. 15. — Took coach at five, a.m., for
Colombo. As soon as the light broke, we found our
selves surrounded by grand and magnificent scenery.
We skirted several coffee plantations, and saw the
coffee tree frequently as we went along. We had two
coffee planters inside the coach with us, talking inces
santly of their possessions. One of them had bought, at
an auction on the previous day, some eleven hundred
acres of coffee ground, at forty-three shillings per acre.
We learned from them, as from others, that the scenery
higher up, in the interior, is finer and more panoramic
than any we had beheld ; and that in that higher and
mountainous region herds of large wild elephants are
found. We reached Colpetty again in the evening, and
were in bed there by half-past ten.
Frid., Nov. 16. — Rose at six, refreshed by a good
night's rest, and at ten drove with Mr. Gogerly to Papa-
liano, to open a new chapel there for the natives. It is
about six miles from Colombo, and on our road we saw
something more of interior Singhalese life, and passed
one of our smaller village chapels, used also as a school
room. On the road we passed many natives walking, or
riding in their bullock- waggons, and going to our opening
service. On arriving at Papaliano we found the large, new
chapel full, and many not able to gain admittance, though
all the children had been sent away to make room for
adults. The scene outside, thronged with natives in
holiday dresses, and skirted with cocoa-nut trees, was
very pleasing. We ascended the steps on which the

84 LIBERALITY AND DEVOTION.
chapel is raised, and found the interior imposing. Lofty
columns, with high pedestals and well moulded capitals,
supported the central roof, and all over the spacious
area were the • crowded natives in their gay and pic
turesque costumes, with not a white face among them.
Here and there might be seen native ministers and
catechists from different parts, in half European cloth
ing ; and near to the pulpit were a few burghers and
their families. The pulpit was a large hexagon, made
of brick and plaster, and was surrounded by a wide
cedar communion rail. Mr. Gogerly read the abridged
form of the Liturgy and the Commandments in Sing
halese ; and the responses of the people were loud as the
sound of many waters. I then ascended the pulpit, to
preach to them through interpretation by their own
native minister. The sight was novel and affecting.
The many colours of women's dresses made them like
garden beds of lilies and dahlias, and the trinkets on
their necks, arms, and ears, gave a glitter to the scene ;
while, beyond the women and the better-dressed men,
lining the walls, and crowding the doors and windows,
were fine, bronze forms, bare down to the loins. All
were devout and attentive, and after the sermon plates,
neatly covered with white napkins, were handed courte
ously round among them by native office-bearers, upon
which they respectively placed their contributions for
the house of God. Some of them had given liberally
before, both in labour and money. Some among the
poor had devoted as much as two and three months'
pay for work to it ; and the chapel is a standing memo
rial both of their generosity and devotion. In this
service, also, I saw the stolid, cautious Singhalese
tremble and shed tears under the free proclamations of

FAREWELL. 85
the Gospel to sinners, and at the declarations made
of the love and sympathy for them in Christian
England. After the service in the chapel, I met the
native ministers and catechists present in the school
room opposite, and addressed them in the name of my
ministerial brethren at home. They gathered closely
around me, and brought their wives and little ones
near, that I might speak to them also. They gave me
fruit and milk, which I enjoyed in their society more
than I should have done a sumptuous banquet in the
company of nobles and their heirs. We wept at part
ing ; and as I returned to Colombo with Mr. Gogerly, I
learned from him that Singhalese women are not the
abused and oppressed drudges under their husbands that
women are generally in heathen countries. In Ceylon
many of them have their due place and influence in the
household. Sat., Nov. 17. — Left Colombo by coach at five o'clock
in the morning for Galle. In the way found, at the
change of horses, our native ministers, their families,
and their people, crowding around the coach, with
remembrance-tokens for Mrs. Jobson and myself. We
prized these the more, inasmuch as they had been
charms and amulets worn by the natives before conver
sion from Heathenism to Christianity. They also
brought us, from cottages and huts under the shady
palms, bottles of warm tea and of cool cocoa-nut milk ;
and as we left them on the road and by the wayside,
with their children as well as themselves in neat, clean
clothing, they significantly smiled and beckoned to us
grateful and Christian farewells. The day was fine, the
scenery luxuriantly rich, and our progress through the
half hundred miles of avenue, — all festooned with gay
i

86 RE-EMBARKATION.
creepers and tendrils, — was, amidst the throngs and
smiles of Christian natives, almost to be likened to a
triumphant procession. We reached Galle by half-past
three, p.m., and before sleeping at night secured a com
fortable cabin for our approaching sail to Australia.
Sun., Nov. 18. — Preached in the Dutch Presbyterian
church at nine o'clock in the morning to a good and
attentive congregation ; and in the evening I preached
to a crowded assembly of all denominations in our large,
plain, but spacious old chapel.
Mon., Nov. 19, and Tues., 20. — Devoted to letters for
England. Wed., Nov. 21.— Went on board the "Behar" by
twelve at noon. Found in her a good, new steamship.
Sailed by nine in the evening, with pleasant memories
of Ceylon, and not wondering that it should be so highly
celebrated for its surpassing loveliness.

art S^x^nc,

AUSTRALIA

TASMANIA.

i 2

AUSTRALIA AND
TASMANIA.

CHAPTER IV.
The Indian Ocean — Albatrosses — Southern Constellations — Cape Leuwin —
King George's Sound — Aborigines and Wild Flowers — Convicts —
Voyage from Albany to Port Phillip — Melbourne — Ballarat and " the
Diggings " — Geelong — Notes on Melbourne, Ballarat, and Geelong, and
on Methodism in the Colony of Victoria.

Thurs., Nov. 22. — Refreshing breeze, and fine through
the day, but out of all sight of land. Scotchmen still
preponderated on board, both among passengers and
crew. Our steamship had been built at Greenock for
the French; but, being too costly for them, had been
given up to the Peninsular and Oriental Company.
Frid., Nov. 23. — Another fine and very warm day.
The sun set gloriously ! We crossed the equinoctial
line in the night; and the heat was intense.
Sat., Nov. 24. — A bright morning. Ships in sight,
going north. Waterspout in the distance. A squall
came on; we had a wet night, and the port-holes were
closed. Sun., Nov. 25. — Our Captain read prayers, in the
forenoon, in a most hurried, slovenly manner, getting
i 3

90 SOUTHERN CONSTELLATIONS.
through the whole service in twenty minutes. In the
evening we had worship in our cabin, for ourselves.
From Mon., Nov. 26, to Sat., Dec. 1. — Weather very
changeable throughout the week, so that our progress
over the Indian Ocean was not very rapid.
Sun., Dec. 2. — Read the Liturgy, and preached on
" Conscience " in the saloon. Weather fine, but wind
still against us. Sensibly cooler.
From Mon., Dec. 3, to Thurs., 6. — Weather growing
rapidly colder, and wind still against us. Saw several
large albatrosses sailing in the wind in our wake, and
then wheeling their long, bent wings around us, as if
they had been sporting companions of our voyage.
Some of them must have been twelve feet from tip to
tip of their expanded wings. Whales, too, were seen in
the distance towards the south. Night fine, and the
stars and constellations of the southern hemisphere
shone brilliantly over our heads. The Southern Cross
was conspicuous in the jewelled heavens, and we watched
it as it rose in an inclined position above the horizon to
a perpendicular elevation, and until it declined again.
We now understood the reported cry of travelling Arabs
in the desert : " It is past midnight ; for the Cross begins
to bend." We could trace in the firmament some forms
familiar to us, but most of the constellations were new,
and shone in the deep, blue vault with a piercing bright
ness, surpassing what can be seen in a European sky.
The moon, too, came up at her hour in full-orbed
splendour, and looked larger than she seems in England.
She shed a bright pathway over the ocean ; and the
night was magnificent.
Frid., Dec. 7. — At eleven in the forenoon sighted
Australian land, on the left. For some time it was in-

king george's sound. 91
definite in its form and colour, but by one it grew more
distinct, though from the peculiar effect of the atmo
sphere upon it there was difficulty in judging of its
elevation and sea-line. Something like the fantastic
mirage of the desert seemed to play upon it, and to
shape, elevate, and double it by reflexion, until it was
hard, even for the officers of our ship, to say what was
visionary and what was real. At length the positive
was plainly before us, and with our straining eyes we
saw a long, low, horizontal, coast line, clothed with a
dull, leaden, brown-green scrub; and, where rising to
anything like hills in elevation, covered with thick
forest trees of the same heavy, monotonous colour. On
advancing towards Cape Leuwin, the south-west angle
of this island-continent, the scenery becomes more bold,
rocky, and picturesque in front ; while over and beyond
the coast-ridge may be discerned hills and mountain
ranges. Huge boulders of hoary grey stone obtrude
through the scrub of the elevated ground by the sea,
and group themselves into almost every variety of form,
¦ — seeming at times like remnants of baronial castles, or
old watch-towers, with fallen walls between, — and then
like Druidical remains ; — until it is difficult to believe
that what is before you is a singularity of natural form,
and not the handiwork of man. Our powerful glasses,
however, dissolved this charm, and brought to our view
the veritable structure of these up-heaved rocks. On
nearing Cape Leuwin the rugged cliffs became more
perpendicular and precipitous in their fall, and off-lying
islands appeared at some distance in the sea: some of
them resembling the rock on which Dumbarton Castle
stands in the Clyde. The sunset among all these
fantastic forms was gorgeously picturesque, but had

92 ABORIGINES AND WILD FLOWERS.
more of deep orange than crimson. It was more
American than Egyptian in its tinge.
Sat., Dec. 8. — After a sail of nearly two hundred
miles from Cape Leuwin, we entered King George's
Sound at daybreak, around high rocks and forelands — a
circuitous and intricate course, which requires a pilot
of the place for safe entrance. Large islands of grim,
frowning rock were in our course, and the sea dashed
and foamed against them with impetuous fury. When
we reached the harbour, we found ourselves in clear,
smooth water, of considerable extent. The Adelaide
steamer was here, waiting for the mail-boxes for South
Australia ; and convicts came off in boats, and took them,
and the boxes for Western Australia, under guardsmen.
As soon as practicable, we went ashore, and stayed at
Albany for several hours, while convicts coaled the ship.
Here we had our first sight of the Aborigines of Aus
tralia; and here, at this southern port of Western
Australia, we saw the convict system in operation. We
wandered from the shore through the scrub, and up the
stouy hills, picking our way as safely as we could, in the
entangled abode of deadly snakes, and gathering ferns
and wild flowers, many of which were surprisingly
beautiful. A company of aborigines, scantily covered
with kangaroo skins, clotted with red grease, and
bedaubed on forehead, cheek, and limbs, with white
pipeclay, followed us, — jabbered their semi-English
jargon in our ears, — and, to obtain our white money,
gathered for us profuse bunches of flowers, and exhibited
their surprising feats of throwing the boomerang and
the spear. We were nearly alone with them, but we
found no occasion to fear, and engrossed their attention
by talk of " white money." One convict, whom we

VOYAGE FROM ALBANY TO PORT PHILLIP. 93
came upon at a secluded spot, when in company with
our dark and disgusting attendants, had a tame opossum
for sale ; and others of his class, whom we passed on our
return, were eager to sell us shells, parrots, and cock
atoos. We found many Irish at this convict settlement.
There is but little cultivated land, we were told, in the
country around Albany, and scarcely anything but
distant patches of ground between it and Perth (three
hundred miles off) which can be employed even as
sheep and cattle runs. The situation of Albany, as
viewed from our steamship, and encircling the crystal
harbour, backed and flanked by bold, rocky hills and
heights which are covered with dense dark green foliage,
was remarkably picturesque. It reminded us of our
own Windermere, as beheld from the middle island, and
looking towards Bowness ; only there was less variety
of colour, and Albany Harbour has a broader water in
its basin than Lake Windermere. From King George's
Sound we threaded our way back amidst rocky islands,
and passed again into the open sea. Steering our way
eastward, we had the Australian coast on our left, and
beyond a lofty, conical hill by the sea-shore, (apparently
a spent volcano,) called " Mount Gardinere," we could
see high mountains, far back inland, of which we
could not learn the names. And now, standing out
into the great Southern Ocean, we had to sail some
thirteen hundred miles across the great bight of the
south coast of Australia to Port Phillip.
Another gorgeous sunset; and the night which
followed one cannot easily describe. The stars seemed
to be pendant from the sky, and to be scattered so
strangely over the heavens that it looked to our English
eyes like the sky of another world. We never lost this

94 MELBOURNE.
feeling under starlight, until we returned to Europe,
when to gaze again on our northern constellations was
like looking on old faces.
Sun., Dec. 9. — Beautifully fine, and climate pleasant.
Read the Liturgy and preached.
From Mon., Dec. 10, to Thurs., 13. — Wind and
weather variable; but our passage not altogether
slow. Frid., Dec. 14. — Early in the morning arrived at the
entrance to the large harbour of Victoria, called " Port
Phillip," having seen no land during four preceding
days, — nor until we neared the outstretching headland
of " Cape Otway," on the Thursday. We now passed
two lighthouses on the west side of the entrance to the
harbour; and between them rolled majestically the
heavy, swelling waves from " Bass Straits," which sepa
rate Tasmania from Australia. We rode buoyantly
upon them, and shot our way into the smoother water.
Day broke with a most gorgeous sunrise. The clouds
were dappled crimson. The sky glowed like burnished
gold ; and when the sun appeared above the coast-hills
on our right, the quarantine houses under them, and
the lighthouses and coast opposite, with the glancing,
rippling waves between, were all bathed in a flood of
golden light of the purest and brightest lustre.
A mail-boat came off from the lighthouse side for
letters to Geelong ; and after it had departed, we again
careered through the great inland basin, some forty
miles long, from the entrance to Hobson's Bay, where
we had to land for Melbourne. The crimson and yellow
morning light gradually changed to one more silvery,
or rather, amber-like, in its liquid transparency. The
coast on our left showed miles of flat, arable and pasture-

MELBOURNE. 95
land, with the blue range of " Mount Macedon " behind,
and the dingy, boat-building, Blackwall sort of a suburb
named "Williamstown" (the port of Melbourne) in
front, at the edge of the water. The scenery on the
right, stretching far away, was that of brown-green trees
and scrub, with several mountain ranges beyond ; and
with white cottages and broad-eaved villas dotting the
coast in front, at "Brighton." Before us appeared
the metropolitan city of the Australian colony of " Vic
toria," stretching over miles of gentle slope from the
shore to the flat hills upon which the main part of it
stands. Immediately on our left was Sandridge Pier,
with shipping from various parts of the world; and
steaming away from thence to the city was the railway-
train. It was a wondrous scene to behold ; and deeply
illustrative of the energy and power of man. Consi
derably within our own life-time, the whole of what we
saw now cultivated and built upon was a wilderness,
peopled only by savages, and known only to here and
there an enterprising voyager, who had touched this
coast in passing round the Australian shores ! Our
steamship, which had to proceed to Sydney, anchored at
a distance of two miles from the landing-place ; but we
soon saw our friends approaching in a boat ; and we
were heartily welcomed to this southern world by the
Rev. D. J. Draper, and his ministerial brethren of Mel
bourne, and were conveyed to the hospitable home of
the Hon. Alexander Fraser, a member of the Legislative
Council, who also came in the boat to welcome us. His
house was at St. Kilda, a pleasant suburb, some two
miles beyond the centre of Melbourne.
Sat., Dec. 15. — Drove with the Rev. D. J. Draper,
Wesleyan minister, and Chairman of the Victoria Dis-

96 MELBOURNE.
trict, to look round Melbourne. Its large, massive
granite buildings,— its wide and numerous streets,— its
sumptuous shops and stores, — and its extent and ad
vancement, greatly surprised me. A great part of it
might have belonged to some of the more substantial
and prosperous cities and towns of England. In general
character, it struck me as being most like Birmingham,
with some of the larger London streets intermixed.
There were park-like suburbs around, uniting it with
rising townships of large extent. These surrounding
towns have still houses of boards, or of zinc, and, in
some few instances, of canvas. The Government offices
and public buildings of Melbourne surpass anything in
England to be found out of London ; and the Houses
of Legislature, with the Treasury, &c, when finished,
will, in their sumptuous style and decorations, rival
the Senate Chambers and buildings in Paris.
Sun., Dec. 16. — Preached morning and evening at
Wesley Church, Lonsdale Street, — a large gothic struc
ture, with tower, spire, transepts, and chancel, all on a
good scale, and in good keeping. The congregations
were immense, and the excitement I experienced while
preaching to so many whom I had known in England
was greater than I can easily describe.
Mon., Dec. 17. — Wrote letters, and received visits
from friends.
Tues., Dec. 18. — Left Melbourne at eight o'clock in
the morning for Ballarat, Mr. Draper accompanying me.
Travelled to Geelong by railway, over wide-spread
pasture and arable lands, and arrived there by eleven ;
having had a stoppage on the way, through the failure
of a bridge over a creek. We now got into a large,
swing coach, with fifteen or sixteen persons inside, and

BALLARAT. 97
with nearly as many outside. It was a long, boat-like
conveyance, on leathern springs, of American construc
tion, and driven by a dashing American coachman. We
had all kinds of persons with us as fellow passengers :
Chinamen, in their blouse-like dresses, and with their
long tails curled up behind their heads; long, loose-
limbed colonists, with stiff, grizzly beards ; gentlemen
gold-seekers; and rough, enterprising labourers, with
their wives and children. The road was good in some
places, but rugged and jolting in others. The land on
both sides was mostly fenced in, except where we drove
through the bush and scrub, and had to drive over
plank and " corduroy " roads at full speed. In loose
and swampy parts they saw trees in two, from the top
to the roots, and then place the flat-side of the half
trees upon the ground, and the coach rattles and jolts
over the round upper half of the trees. Roads thus
formed are called "corduroy," from their striped re
semblance to that material.
There are inns at every stage ; and on the road we
often met bullock-drays, laden with bales of wool, and
going slowly and heavily down to the capital, for transit
to England. At intervals, by the way, were to be seen
settlers' huts and clearings, with trunks and charred
stumps of trees, and with the gradually-acquired stock
feeding on the field and forest-like pastures around.
Here and there would be seen a larger dwelling, of more
substantial material, with larger herds of cattle, and
with park-like grounds in its neighbourhood. It was
surprising to see, as we went along, what wide, spacious
plains opened to us on either hand, which in their
primitive condition were entirely free from bush and
scrub, and had not more trees upon them than would be
K

98 BALLARAT.
desired for ornament, or for the shelter of cattle. It
seemed as if the settler had nothing to do, in such
parts, but to plough up the turf, and turn out his flocks
and herds; for no primeval forests were there to be
rooted out before cultivation began. In other parts,
gentle slopes and shady glens were seen, and over them
long ranges of hills, wooded to the summits, giving
breadth and variety to the landscape. Some of the
trees were large and grand in their forms ; but they
were nearly all gum trees, which shed their bark instead
of their leaves, and thus present, in stem and branches,
a stripped and naked appearance. There was, also, the
lack of rivers and streams. Otherwise, if there had been
greater variety of foliage, and the winding of flowing
water, the scenes in our way would not unfrequently
have been equal to the best parts of Yorkshire.
About five o'clock in the evening we found ourselves
at the point of descent from an elevation into a valley
where a street of two miles, or more, wound its serpen
tine length between stores and houses of various mate
rials, but chiefly of wood; and with the ground on
either hand, in the valley, and up the sides of the hill,
all in heaps and hollows, covered with machinery and
temporary dwellings ; while in various directions, amidst
the disembowelled yellow-white earth, were running, in
gullies and channels, streams of muddy water. This
was Ballarat, and its gold-diggings. Our American
Jehu had dashed along at a quick rate previously, but
now he hurried forward his " eight-in-hand " at their
utmost speed, and galloped furiously down the hill into
the town. We drove with wonder through the strange
street, with its variously formed structures and stores —
some of boards, some of zinc, others of brick and stone ;

BALLARAT. 99
and so oddly and grotesquely fashioned and coloured,
that they seemed more like the temporary show erec
tions of a pleasure-fair than the buildings of a central
thoroughfare in a town of forty thousand inhabitants.
We gazed curiously upon the " signs " and names of
the possessors from different nations, gaudily painted on
the fronts of the motley erections, as we passed along,
and saw sleek-faced Chinamen and bearded Europeans
mingled together upon the pavement at the sides. At
length we emerged from the more hastily constructed
portion of the town, and ascended the upper part, with
its substantial buildings of good, ornamental styles of
architecture. On the arrival of the coach at the hotel,
I was cordially welcomed by my Wesleyan friends, and
preached in their larger chapel in the evening.
Wed., Dec. 19. — Mr. Draper and myself, with the
Rev. John G. Millard, superintendent minister of the
Ballarat Circuit, and Mr. Oddie, circuit steward, drove
in a spider-wheeled phaeton to the agricultural lands
of the neighbourhood ; and after passing through
spacious grounds, reserved for botanical gardens and
other ornamental purposes, we saw large fields of many
acres standing thick with corn. We went some ten
miles out, and found extensive plains of rich arable and
pasture land, with rising villages and hamlets, and roads
being laid out and beaten down for traffic. A series
of well-moulded hills of rich clothing bounded the
prospect; and swampy, outspreading lakes varied the
scene pleasantly. After visiting one of our ministers at
a country station, baptizing an infant child of English
emigrants, and seeing large farmsteads of prosperous
colonists, we returned to Ballarat, to look more closely
at the gold-digging region. K.2

100 We now took to our feet, and passed " Golden Point,"
so named from its extraordinary amount of precious
produce. The earth was honey-combed ; the valley
gaped with holes, and was filled with gullies and drains
of water, in every direction. Squatters, merchants,
soldiers, sailors, farmers, shopkeepers, miners, shep
herds, artisans, college-graduates, and freed convicts,
were all herded together in search of the yellow prize.
It seemed a huge human ant-hill; and sound and
excitement of labour were everywhere heard and seen.
We passed from part to part, hearing from our attend
ant, who had been at Ballarat from its commencement,
strange stories of the scenes and deeds of that place,
when gold was first discovered in it. His recital of
struggles for certain localities by multitudes arriving
from week to week ; of privations and sufferings en
dured by diggers, and their alternate states of destitu
tion and enrichment, extravagance and profligacy ; his
pictures of their quarrels with licensing officers, and
among themselves; of their epidemics and deaths;
their treacheries, thefts, and murders, filled us with
shuddering wonder, and drew from us loud exclamations
as we went along. But we were scarcely noticed by the
diggers, whatever might be our looks or words of amaze
ment ; for they were too earnest in their work to give
any heed to us. In one place we had pointed out to
us the spot where the largest nugget of gold ever dis
covered in the world was found by a party of four men,
at a depth of one hundred and eighty feet from the
surface. It weighed one hundred and thirty-four
pounds, and is described as being of the size and form
of a ham ; and was named, " the welcome nugget."
We were shown the strata of the earth ; and how the

101
richest deposits are in veins of blue clay, and are found
mostly in rounded or water-worn lumps of various sizes,
varying from a quarter of an ounce to two ounces in
weight. Not unfrequently the gold is incorporated with
round pebbles of quartz, the original matrix of the
precious metal; less frequently in irregular smooth
pieces of from four to seven ounces' weight. The greater
quantity, however, is washed from the clays in the form
of minute rounded or flattened grains. The diggings
and washings at- Ballarat, at the time we visited it, had
slackened in their production of gold ; and the greater
part of that obtained was from a considerable depth,
and from quartz crushed by machinery. Many whom
we saw at work were re-washing the heaps of excavated
soil so hastily searched by early diggers, and they found
it worth their time to expend labour on the old material.
They were thickly clotted and ^bemired with their
labour in the muddy pits, ravines, and water-courses,
and some of them had the look, as well as the garb,
of desperadoes. It was pitiable to see their wives and
little children in the miserable huts erected for shelter
amidst these muddy heaps and holes, and in which they
had their homes by day and night.
We afterwards went to what is called "the Chinese
Camp," where some three thousand Chinamen were
located together, on an eminence near to their side of
the gold-diggings. Their dwellings were, as might be
expected, of the light boarded kind, with small rooms
and cupboard-like shops in front. There were, in the
midst of their frail, crowded structures, a joss-house for
their gods, and a large theatre for their sports. As
they knew our guide by his efforts to benefit them
religiously, they allowed us to look at their abodes,
k 3

102 "THE DIGGINGS."
shops, cooking-rooms, and gaming-houses, and even
courteously invited us to partake with them of cakes,
tea, and fruit. Their numerous gaming-houses were
crowded with eager-looking actors, at the counters or
boards. In their houses and shops were suspended
idol-shrines and lanterns. We saw scarcely any women
among them. Their* wives are left behind in China, as
hostages, we were told, for the return of the men to
their own country. A few of them, who, I suppose,
have made up their minds to settle permanently in
Australia, have taken Irishwomen for wives. But the
reports of domestic morals among the Chinese are
awful ; and, from what I heard and saw, I do not wonder
at the prejudice existing in the minds of Anglo-Saxon
colonists against them. It was melancholy to reflect
that three thousand of such sensual and depraved beings-
had been gathered at the gold fields of Ballarat to
mingle and compete with Europeans ; and that more
than forty thousand of them are dispersed abroad over
the colony of Victoria ! As we left this saddening
sight, the short twilight passed away ; the din of labour
ceased ; and in one direction we could hear a few bars
of the sweet German hymn -f in another snatches of a
roaring song by boisterous sailors ; in another the harsh
sounds of quarrel, or the echoes of laughter. With
space and distance the discordant sounds blended into a
general hum ; and when the last sound died away, as we
re-entered the Methodist parsonage of Upper Ballarat,
we recounted the old saw of England, that " One half
of the world does not know how the other half lives."
Thurs., Dec. 20. — Left early in the morning by coach
for Geelong, where we were expected at a public meeting
in the evening. Arrived there a little after noon.

GEELONG. 103
Geelong is the second town of importance in the colony
of Victoria, and is situated on the western side of Port
Phillip, on a picturesque and sheltered slope of the bay,
at a distance of forty-one miles from Melbourne by the
railway. It has a population of some twenty-five thousand,
and has some good streets, shops, warehouses, and public
buildings. In its central and principal thoroughfares, and
in the character of its buildings, it is not unlike the clean,
healthy town of Huddersfield, in the West Riding of
Yorkshire; and it is as well situated, by fall of ground, for
drainage. The outskirts of the town are, as might be
expected, more scattered and irregular in their dwellings.
The river Barwon runs about a mile behind it, flowing
towards its outlet in Lake Connewarre, through which
it discharges itself into the sea. The scenery contiguous
to the river is beautifully picturesque, and the Barrabool
hills around, being remarkably fertile, are occupied by
productive farms and vineyards. We had a large,
enthusiastic meeting in the evening, were kindly greeted
by ministers of various denominations, and found many
among the audience whom we had known in England.
We were hospitably entertained by our superintendent
minister, at Geelong, — Rev. Joseph Dare. At his plea
sant manse by the chapel, I was re-joined by Mrs.
Jobson, whom I'had left to follow me to Geelong when
I went from Melbourne to Ballarat.
Frid., Dec. 21. — Detained at Geelong by the indispo
sition of my wife till the afternoon, when we returned
by railway to Melbourne.
Sat., Dec. 22. — Spent the day in writing letters, and
in receiving visitors.
Sun., Dec. 23. — Preached at Brunswick Chapel,
Melbourne, in the morning, and in our grey granite

104 GEELONG.
gothic chapel, with its square tower, at St. Kilda, in
the evening. The heat was great, and the excitement
as much as could be borne.
Mon., Dec. 24. — Wrote letters, and exchanged visits
with friends from England. Day exceedingly hot, but
night cool. Musquitoes troublesome.
Tues., Dec. 25. — A strange Christmas-day, being
intolerably hot ; and no prospect of gathering around
the fire with relatives for Christmas-cheer : — Christmas
being the Australian midsummer. In the morning we
went to the Botanic Gardens, which are stored with
plants, animals, and birds, native to the colony; and
then drove past the Government-house, and amidst the
forest clearings of the roads and fields of the neighbour
hood, finding it difficult, in some parts, to make our
way in the carriage, through ruts and swamps. Beyond
the Government domain, towards the east, the sweep of
scenery was large and impressive. Unbroken dark
forests crowned the hill ; and in the distance was the
long range of the " Blue Mountains." As we drove
along we heard everywhere on the gum trees the
cricket-like insects, — usually called locusts by the colo
nists, — hissing their reed-like, monotonous noise ; but
no song-bird, either large or small, gladdened us with
its music. In the evening I preached at Prahran, in a
large iron chapel, on the Believer's love to the unseen
Saviour, and to a full congregation gathered from the
houses of wood, brick, zinc, and iron of that populous
suburb of the capital.
Wed. and Thurs., Dec. 26 and 27. — Went over various
parts of Melbourne, acquainting myself more fully with
its plan, arrangements, public institutions, &c, and had
pleasant converse with our ministers of the city : — •

NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 105
the Rev. Messrs. Waugh, Binks, Hill, Wells, and
others. Frid., Dec. 28.— Left Melbourne by the "Black
Swan" steamer, at half-past ten in the forenoon, for
Tasmania.

Melbourne, for the period of its existence, is, un
doubtedly, the most wonderful city in the world. It is
the growth of a single generation : indeed, mostly of
the last ten or twelve years. Earlier, it was only a long
straggling village, or embryo town, with stumps of felled
forest-trees in its streets. Now it is a large city,
extending two and a half miles in length, one and a half
in breadth. On all the land sides, — amidst park-like
scenery, — it is surrounded with thickly-populated and
richly-ornamental suburbs. It has at present more than
100,000 inhabitants, and its numbers are constantly
increasing. The streets are wide, well paved, and well
laid out ; and you see in them stores, shops, and houses
of good architectural styles: some resemble what are
seen at the west-end of London ; but for the most part
they resemble those of a good second-class city, or
enterprising English town. The city is already rich in
public buildings, and these are continually on the in
crease. Some of them, for Government and Legislative
uses, are even sumptuous in their character and decora
tions. A dark-grey granite is obtained from the hills
on which the city is built : it would seem to be all but
imperishable in its consolidated hardness ; and this,
with freestone dressings, supplies good materials for

106 NOTES ON MELBOURNE.
massive public works. Many of the shops and ware-"
houses are of grey-white grit stone, clean and orna
mental, as in the best streets of Manchester and Liver
pool. The broad footways at the sides of the streets
are thronged with busy, enterprising men of all nations,
but chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon race, and from the old
country; while the macadamized roads between are
filled with waggons, carts, bullock- drays, and various
vehicles of merchandise. Some of the drivers of these
carriages, as well as other passengers on foot and horse
back, show by their garb of high-leathern boots
and " cabbage-tree " hats, as also by their sun-burnt,
unshaven faces, that they are from the interior of the
colony, where men have to rough it. But, mingled
thickly with these, are gentlemanly-looking merchants
and tradesmen, portly and flourishing as in Hull or
Bristol; while ladies of gay dress and equipages move
to and fro, at certain hours, for promenade, and for
purchases. Indeed, throughout the city there is a
" well-to-do " air with the inhabitants. Rags and beg
gary are almost unknown. No tattered urchin tips his
cap at the crossing, and, with scraggy besom in hand,
besieges you for half-pence. All but rakes and profli
gates are well-dressed ; for all who will work may work,
and that at wages which will feed and clothe them.
The most helpless are, perhaps, " fast " young men who
go there as clerks, accountants, and " editors," and not
to work out of doors. These, really, glut the market.
But all who are willing to earn their bread by the sweat
of their brow may do so in Melbourne. Money is not
now so plentiful as it was ; and wages are not so high ;
but a common labourer in the field, or breaking stones
upon the road, has from seven shillings to ten shillings

NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 107
per day ; while a mechanic, or an artisan, will have from
fifteen shillings to twenty shillings. Rents are not so
costly as they were, having fallen, on the average, one-
half within the last six years. My host paid at one time
as much as £4,000 a year rent for his house and store,
and these were not at all of more than ordinary preten
sions. Servants' wages are still high : a good female
servant has as much as from thirty to forty, and even
to fifty pounds a year. These circumstances give the
inhabitants a free, independent bearing ; and it is im
possible to go through the streets of Melbourne without
perceiving that it is an energetic and flourishing city. It
has, lengthwise, nine spacious thoroughfares, or principal
streets, which are crossed by streets equally broad and
imposing ; and these are intersected at right angles by
numerous narrower streets, running parallel to the larger
streets, and branching out into the outskirts of the city
in all directions. The city is daily washed and kept
clean by an abundant flow of water brought from a dis
tance, and of such fall and force that in case of fire the
part in danger may be immediately deluged. The
public buildings are scattered about in various parts,
but are chiefly on elevated sites ; and to stand in the
heart of this young metropolis, and reflect that on this
spot, a few years ago, where now more than 100,000
persons have their homes, where merchants and trades
men exchange millions sterling, where learning has its
university and appended colleges, where the press issues
its daily and weekly newspapers by thousands and tens
of thousands; and where there are orphans' homes,
hospitals for the sick, and asylums for the insane ; — To
stand here and reflect, that but a very few years ago all
this was an uncultivated wild, where untutored savages

108 NOTES ON MELBOURNE.
and poisonous reptiles had their dwelling, — is creative of
no common emotion.
In this crowded metropolis Religion is not over
looked or forgotten. As in the " United States," and as
in Canada, there is a general reverence shown to it and to
its ministers. The Sabbath too is outwardly observed.
Nearly all Christian communities have their young and
flourishing churches here. The first Gospel sermon
preached in this section of the island-continent was by
Joseph Orton, a Wesleyan missionary, who had accom
panied the enterprising Batman from Tasmania across
Bass' Straits to Port Phillip. It was preached in April,
1836, beneath the shadow of the forest trees on the
crest of Batman's Hill. The service was attended by the
colonist and his household, and by a goodly number of
the aborigines, who, attracted by the novel scenes and
sounds, crowded near to learn what was meant.
The text was, " Except a man be born again, he cannot
see the kingdom of God ; " and the sermon has been
described by one who heard it as being most powerful
and impressive ; so that all — including the poor ignorant
aborigines — were awed and bowed under it. This was the
first Methodist seed sown on the virgin soil of this region
of Australia, and it has issued already in an abundant
harvest. Within the colony of Victoria we have at present
41 ministers, 240 chapels and preaching-places, 38,932
persons forming our congregations, 320 local preachers,
129 day-school teachers, 5,344 day scholars, 1577 sab
bath-school teachers, 12,249 sabbath scholars, 5424 full
and accredited church members, with 672 on trial
for membership. The Wesleyans in the colony also
supply £2,400 per year for Missions to the islands
of the Pacific. Melbourne has its proportionate share

' NOTES ON MELBOURNE. 109
in these Methodist efforts and distinctions. The best
and most imposing ecclesiastical structures of Mel
bourne belong to Methodism; and in character and
size are like the large gothic chapels recently built
by the Wesleyans in London and Liverpool. One of
them, a large imposing building in Lonsdale Street,
is of grey granite with freestone dressings : it has a
tower and spire, and transepts, and is in appearance
the cathedral of the city. This, and some other chapels
of Melbourne, were mainly built out of £40,000,
realized by the sale of a small piece of land formerly
occupied by the Methodist Missionary Society in
Collins Street, — a street which has become the prin
cipal artery for trade and merchandise in the capital.
My first sermon in Australia was preached in this
Lonsdale Street Church, which was densely crowded.
And never shall I forget that wedged mass of living
beings, nor the sight of them, when, after the reading
of the Liturgy from the desk by the Rev. James
Waugh, the resident superintendent, I went up the
spiral staircase of the beautiful cedar pulpit, and, in
giving out the verse,—
" God of my life, through all my days,
My grateful powers shall sound Thy praise ;
My song shall wake with opening light,
And cheer the dark and silent night," —
looked forth upon that sea of upturned, eager faces,
browned with the Australian sun, nearly all of persons
in middle life ; — many of the men with stiff furze-like
beards and long hair, and some of the women worn and
subdued by the heat ; — and the vast assembly sprinkled
all over with countenances familiar to me from preaching
to congregations in different parts of our parent country ;
L

110 NOTES ON BALLARAT.
so that on a careful computation, afterwards made, it.
was reckoned that I knew one-third of the whole,
either in their own faces, or in their family -likenesses.
The effect of a voice familiar to so many of them, and
calling up at a moment, as by a single link, a host of
home associations, was indescribably exciting. In all
directions eyes gushed full with tears ; faces flushed
and quivered with emotion ; and a sigh of deep
feeling heaved and swayed the mighty mass, until it
waved before and around the preacher like the swelling
billows of a sea. With imposed restraint upon a soul
moved to its utmost depths at the sight, I preached
from the 103rd Psalm, on the grateful remem
brance of Divine mercies, and found that the spirit
and tone of my audience were in full accordance with
the theme. In the evening of the Sabbath the large
building was still more densely crowded ; and our sub
ject of meditation was The Lamb in the midst of the
throne. The collections proved the strength of grati
tude and love influencing the congregations ; and it
may be humbly hoped that the services of that day in
Lonsdale Street Church were not in vain.
At Ballarat, also, Methodism is energetic and
prosperous. I preached to some twelve hundred
persons in the larger of our gothic chapels there;
and found it had been mostly copied from one of
my own published designs. Here were many old
Cornish friends, with their serious and devout faces;
and who as miners, at Ballarat, and other places in
the colony, have had encouraging employment in
search for gold-ore. Some poor prodigals in the
far country that night said, "I will arise and

NOTES ON BALLARAT. Ill
go to my Father;" and at the close of the service
the ministers and circuit-officers presented to me, on
behalf of the assembly, an Address of congratula
tion and welcome, expressive, also, of their love and
loyalty to British Methodism. I was glad to find that
Wesleyans there are not only striving to keep them
selves from the evil that is in the world, but also
labouring to carry on the cause and work of God in
the town and in the region around. There are two
Wesleyan Chapels in the townships of Ballarat, con
taining together accommodation for some two thousand
worshippers. In the Circuit there are twelve day-
schools : the one at Ballarat is large and flourishing,
and is conducted by a teacher from our Training-Insti
tution at Westminster. And there are twenty-four
societies and congregations in the circuit regularly
visited by the ministers and local preachers. Of the
latter there are as many as forty-three, whose names
appear on the Circuit-Plan ; and of these, three-fourths,
and more, are from Cornwall. I found also some zea
lous friends from Islington, to whom I had ministered
in past years. Living in the forest and the bush,
they hold religious services weekly for themselves and
neighbours. I had not the opportunity of inquiring
particularly into the state of other Christian churches
at Ballarat. They are not so large or prosperous
as the Wesleyans ; but they have several places of
worship ; and, according to their means, are serving
their generation by the will of God ; and, gene
rally, there is good fraternal feeling existing among
different religious denominations. It was, however,
melancholy to learn, that a native Chinese missionary,
who had been extensively serviceable to his own people,
l 2

112 NOTES ON GEELONG.
and who had been voluntarily supported by the
benevolent of all churches, had just been dismissed
from his place and work, by clerical intolerance, for
attendance at Wesleyan worship, and his place among
the idolatrous and degraded Chinese left unsupplied.
I was not able to visit other towns in the gold-field
region of Victoria, though importuned by the ministers
and people of our flourishing churches there to do so.
But I was assured that in general features, both civilly
and religiously, Ballarat might be viewed as a fair
specimen of other places in the auriferous district.
In Geelong there are several good ecclesiastical
structures ; and our own gothic church there, with its
enlargement by transepts, is not inferior to any building
in the town. Our superintendent minister (Rev.
Joseph Dare) is an intelligent, large-hearted, eloquent
man; and by his talents and catholicity of spirit
deserves the favour he has both with his own people
and those of other Christian communities. He has the
largest connexion of churches under his care of any
Methodist circuit in the colony, and, with his colleagues,
labours in the surrounding parts, to carry forward the
cause of Christ at a rate equal to the advance of emigra
tion and settlement. In his circuit there are as many
as thirty chapels and preaching-places ; and, in addi
tion to the resident ministers, there are thirty local
preachers. The meeting which was held at Geelong in
the evening of our visit, was one of Methodist welcome
to myself and Mrs. Jobson. It took place in a large
spacious building, — theMechanics'Hall, — and was nume
rously attended both by Methodists and by ministers and
members of other religious bodies. I met there, among

THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. 113
other ministers known to me, a son of the late Rev. W.
Scales, of Leeds. He has a Nonconformist Church in
the town. I also saw several who had been members
of my congregations in England. The Rev. D. J.
Draper, as chairman of the district, presided. An
Address was presented, expressive of the views and
feelings of the Methodists of that part towards my
self and those whom I had gone to represent, which
was supported by speeches from several ministers and
lay- gentlemen ; in reply to which I spoke at length on
the state of Methodism in the old country, and on
the duties of Wesleyans in all parts of the world. It
was a good meeting, and glowed with Christian
feeling. The secular prospects of this youthful colony of
Victoria are truly promising. It is little more than
ten years since it was separated from New South Wales
for self-government, arid yet it is now scarcely sur
passed by any other colony of the British empire. In
extent of territory it is nearly equal to the United
Kingdom, and is exceedingly rich both in gold and
cultivable land. It has a population of 545,000, chiefly
from the old country ; being more than sevenfold the
number of its inhabitants in 1851, when first separated
as a distinct colony. And with its salubrious climate ;
its large yearly exports of gold, wool, tallow, hides,
&c. ; and its large annual imports of British goods and
manufactures, it may be viewed in relation to Great
Britain as worthy of the honoured name it bears.
Many exciting stories are told of its sudden fluctuations,
of the glut of its markets with unsaleable goods, and
the ruinous consequences thereby upon firms and indi
viduals. 'And many a prophetic warning of coming
l 3

114 THE COLONY OF VICTORIA.
ruin may be heard from squatters and large land
holders, whose miles of acres are being distributed
among " new chums," as they arrive. But the colony
advances steadily from year to year, and still proves
attractive to industrious settlers from all parts of the
world. In my travels into the interior, I found
persons from the factory life of Lancashire and York
shire, gathering up their produce, and raising their cattle
on their own freeholds, purchased at twenty shillings
per acre, with the prospect of good provision for their
rising families, as well as a speedy competency for
themselves during the remainder of their lives.

CHAPTER V.
Tasmania — Eiver Tamar — Launceston — Stories of the Old Convicts —
Last Night of the Year 1860 — Coach Journey from Launceston on
New Year's Day, 1861 — Beautiful Scenery — Eeaping on New Year's
Day — Arrival at Horton-College — Sunday-School Children and New
Year's Festival — Coach Journey renewed — Tales of Sportsmen — New
face of Nature, Trees, Birds, and Insects — Arrival at Hobart-Town —
Notes on Tasmania — Betum to Launceston — Ee-passage of Bass'
Straits, to Melbourne.

Frid., Dec. 28. — I took but a single passage in the
packet for Tasmania, and left Mrs. Jobson behind at
St. Kilda. We had some interesting company on
board. A judge shared my sleeping-cabin. Another
passenger was an influential member of the House of
Legislation from Melbourne. He was going, like
several others, a voyage of change and health to Tas
mania. There were, also, several gentlemen of the
legal profession, and a clergyman from Cornwall, now
in charge of the College at Adelaide. With these I
had free and friendly conversations, and from them
learned much that was instructive concerning the
colonies. Our passage over " Bass' Straits " was toss
ing and turbulent : some would describe it as stormy ;
but by this time I had become fully at home on the
sea, and could rest like a storm-bird upon the swelling
wave. Sat., Dec. 29. — At early morning Tasmania, — or, as
it was formerly called, " Van Diemen's Land," — was in
sight. By half-past twelve we approached the mouth

116 TASMANIA.
of the River Tamar. The scene before us was far more
pleasing than the approach to Australia. It was
varied with patches of cheering bright green and lawn
like turf. After we entered the winding river, the
shore on either side was exceedingly beautiful. In
some parts, it was broken into romantic forms of
shelving and protruding rocks, covered with luxuriant
shrubbery, which wrapped its roots in fantastic forms
around the stony protuberances; and, in other parts,
it was clothed with forest trees down to the water's
edge, except where it was cleared for dwellings. Here
and there the river opened with fine broad bays,
hemmed round with gracefully moulded hills thickly
covered with wood; and beyond these, lofty purple-
headed table mountains appeared in the distance, bearing
the names of " Ben Nevis," and " Ben Lomond." The
river combines the scenery of the " Dart " in the West
of England, and of the " Hudson " in America ; and in
several parts has as bold and richly-clad elevations by
its side, reflecting themselves in its glassy surface, as
are seen at the sides of the Hudson in the passage
from Albany to New York. As we advanced, numbers
of long-necked black birds were seen diving into the
water, and remaining some time before they again made
their appearance. At stated points there were dark
barrel buoys resting on pile-driven stands. On these,
other aquatic birds of great length and peculiar form
were perched, and would stand for hours without
moving. The course of the river's channel is only to
be traced by the aid of these buoys, — there not being
sufficient water, except in the very channel, for a vessel
of any size. We reached Launceston at half-past four
in the afternoon, having sailed up the Tamar forty

TASMANIA. 117
miles. I was met and welcomed to Tasmania by Messrs.
Sherwin and Brooks, members of the House of Legisla
tion, and by the Rev. T. B. Harris, son of the Rev.
Thomas Harris, of our home connexion. Mr. Sherwin
drove me to his pleasantly situated villa, where the
surrounding gardens were full of English flowers and
fruits, and where I received every attention and comfort
that a stranger in a far-off land could desire.
Sun., Dec. 30. — Preached twice in the Wesleyan
chapel of Launceston to large and attentive congrega
tions, and made collections on behalf of Foreign Missions-
Was impressed with the outward observance of the
Sabbath in the town, and with the order which was
seen in the streets, considering what had been the
character of many of the inhabitants in earlier times.
Mon., Dec. 31. — Walked over the town of Launces
ton with my kind host, to observe its principal features ;
and after dinner at Mr. Brooks', in company with him
self and other friends, went in a boat to see a most
romantic and picturesque gorge at the north-west cor
ner of the town, where the South Esk river flows into
the Tamar. It is as if volcanic force had riven asunder
some huge mountain-rock, and left a deep channel to
flow between. The rocks on either side stand on large
broken masses, with trees and verdure scattered over
them, and towering in bold, upright forms overhead.
Leaping from our boat, we clambered over rocks and
through brushwood to another gorge above, and came
to the edge of a vast deep basin, into which there
rolled, over scattered rocks, a large volume of water
from other gorges above. The rocks and wooded hills
at the side of the basin were reflected in the clear
mirror of the lake ; and their shadows, contrasted with

118 TASMANIA.
the bright sky above, formed a grand picture. This
region, I was told, is fearfully prolific in poisonous
snakes and reptiles, common to the colony.
On returning to the town we passed the " Bastile "
of the old convicts, and had recalled to us many a
story of former days, when the banished ones were
marched in fetters to church, and there publicly
exposed to the observation of all. Both men and
women had their hair cropped close. The men would
play at cards in the gallery during the service ; and the
women wore iron-collars with sharp prongs, or spikes,
to prevent them from reclining their heads for indul
gence in sleep. Such treatment, as may be supposed,
did not produce love or reverence for Sabbath- worship ;
and in too many instances the clergyman officiating
contented himself by formally " doing duty." At that
time there were as many as fifty thousand persons of the
convict class in Tasmania. This number has been con
siderably reduced by the rush for gold to other colonies ;
and this island is no longer a penal settlement. Also
many persons of most respectable character and life
have voluntarily chosen this colony for their abode.
Still, however, not a few remain in it who were them
selves convicts, or who are immediate descendants of
" transports ; " and the mixture and intermarriages
with them are such that a visitor has to be careful, in
some companies where he may appear, not to make
too close inquiry concerning the reasons of removal
from the old country. Not a few of the worst of
the " old hands " have drunk themselves to death,
yet a sufficient number of them remain to constitute a
formidable class. They are able in Launceston, to the
annoyance of my worthy friends, Messrs. Sherwin and

LAUNCESTON. 119
Brooks, and of many other free settlers, to elect to the Le
gislature, from among themselves, a representative who,
under the influence of intoxicating liquor, has disgraced
himself in the House of Assembly. This class action
tends to perpetuate the memory of the past concerning
the character and position of parties, as well as to give
great offence to the free settlers. After all, however,
it must be admitted that the general order in society,
and the outward reverence for religion, are surprising.
Launceston is a town containing about ten thousand
inhabitants, and is situated within a sort of horse-shoe
circle of hills at the junction of "the North "and South
Esk rivers, which, by their confluence, form the Tamar.
Its streets and shops are in the more level part below,
and extend downwards to the wharf at the edge of the
water. The sloping elevations around the town are
sprinkled over with the dwellings of the genteeler class,
and are tastefully adorned with gardens and vineyards.
There are three Episcopal churches in Launceston, two
Presbyterian, one Baptist, and one Primitive Methodist
chapel, together with our own large Wesleyan chapel,
which holds from eight hundred to one thousand
persons, and which has a minister's house and good
Day and Sunday school-rooms adjoining. We have
also a second chapel and school, on the rising ground
near to Mr. Sherwin's. The Roman Catholics have a
large chapel in .the town; and both priests and people
are zealous to make proselytes to their faith. There
have recently been erected some good government
buildings, in the Tudor style of architecture, a
Mechanics' Institution, and a public suite of rooms.
There is a fine open square in the middle of the town,

120 LAST NIGHT OF THE YEAR 1860.
with ecclesiastical structures at the sides, and with a
Paris bronze fountain in the middle. On the whole,
Launceston is a pleasant and picturesque town, and it
is truly English in its character.
On the last night of the year 1860, we held a public
meeting in our larger chapel, having the mayor of the
town in the chair. Ministers of different denominations
attended, and in their addresses, as well as by their pre
sence, manifested a truly catholic spirit. The passion
for Missions is not so strong in this part of the world as
in Methodism at home, not having had so many years
for nurture ; yet we had a really good meeting ; and the
collections made on this evening and on the previous
Sabbath, produced one hundred and fifty pounds. I
did not know so many persons, proportionately, in the
congregations here, as I had known in the congregations
of Melbourne ; yet there were some to whom I had min
istered the word of life in Leeds and London, whom it
was interesting to meet from my knowledge of their
family relationships. The Watchnight service was to
commence in the chapel almost immediately after the
missionary meeting ; but having to leave by coach the
next morning early, I did not attend that service.
Tues., New Year's Day, 1861. — At five o'clock in the
morning left Launceston for Hobart-Town, by a four-
horse coach, which daily runs in fourteen hours from the
principal town in the north of the island to the capital
city, or principal town in the south. The road is very
good, having been made by convict labour, and having
had no amount of necessary work spared from it. The
coach was well horsed, and reminded one, as it bowled
over the macadamized surface, of the best days of the
"Age," "Highflyer," and "Red-Rover," along the

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 121
famed North Road of England. The resemblance would
have been complete, only there lacked the guard's
cheery horn. The country is mountainous, and yet
pleasant in its general aspect. Two chains of moun
tains run through it longitudinally, called the eastern
and western tiers, and the great road passes through a
cultivated valley between. The best arable land is in
the northern part of the island, and the landscape, though
mostly indigo-green, yet exhibits more variety of tint
than Australia, and is far more English in its appear
ance. English flowers and fruits thrive here in full
perfection ; sweet-brier hedges perfume the way for the
traveller ; and the climate is salubrious and pleasant.
Familiar names from the old country are given to the
principal mountains, some of which rise from four
to six thousand feet above the level of the sea. Towns
and villages, with their cottages, houses, shops, gar
dens, and places of pubhc worship, all look as if they were
Enghsh. It has been observed that the Englishman repro
duces his home wherever he goes ; and this may be fully
seen in Tasmania. It appears in the small, slab-built
hut, smothered with geraniums and honeysuckles; in
the dairy farm house, with its trailing vines, climbing
plants, surrounding flower-garden, and orchard of
apple and pear trees; and in the sohd stone man
sion, flanked by oaks from the old country, with its
smooth green lawn in front, its tastefully formed flower
and strawberry beds at the sides, its surrounding domain
of paddocks and pastures, divided by hedges of hawthorn
and sweetbrier, and with its clustered hay-stacks, corn-
ricks, barns, wool-sheds, and outhouses. Almost every
house we passed had its garden ; and in the very
smallest garden would be seen the simple flowers of our
M

122 ARRIVAL AT HORTON COLLEGE.
childhood, such as primroses, pansies, cowslips, and
daisies ; while the sweet little violet shed its perfume
under hedges of ever-flowering geraniums, that were,
in some instances, ten feet high. In many of the
gardens were seen the English beehive. As we rode
through the country, we saw the golden corn waving in
the breeze over fields of many acres, or bending to the
sickle of the reaper. This seemed strange. It was
more like an English New Year's Day to see signs of
holiday and feasting in the towns and villages as we
passed through them. And where we stopped to change
horses, it was pleasant on alighting to receive from the
portly inn-keeper in his doorway the old English greet
ing of, "A happy New Year to you, Sir ! "
Some of the trees and the birds in Tasmania render
the scene un-English, if you let your eyes dwell upon
them ; for here, as in Australia, the gum-trees are indi
genous, and, though evergreen in their foliage, shed their
ash-grey bark entirely from boles and branches; and
flocks of green and gold parrots and parroquets flash to
and fro in the sun, with their brilliant colours, while
swarming crickets, or "locusts" on the leaves, chirp
unceasingly their summer-song. We passed through
Perth, Cleveland, Campbell Town, and Ross, in which
towns we saw, Methodism had its chapels ; and, in the
greater number of towns, I was met and cordially
greeted by Methodist ministers resident in the several
neighbourhoods. About a mile beyond Ross we reached
Horton College, where I alighted to look over our
educational establishment there. It is a neat brick
building of Tudor style, with stone windows and
dressings, near tp the road, backed by round-moulded
hills, and surrounded by arable and pasture lands. It

SUNDAY SCHOOL CHILDREN. 123
was built at a cost of from four to five thousand pounds,
the money being chiefly provided by Captain Horton, a
retired naval officer from Lincolnshire, who lives on his
garden and farm opposite. It is a high class collegiate
school, accommodating at present some sixty students ;
and recently obtained, on Government examination of
education in the colony, the most satisfactory com
mendation. The Rev. William A. Quick, is its
president; Mr. Fiddian, who so signally distinguished
himself in literary examinations and prizes in Eng
land, is its head-master; and under him there are
other efficient teachers. Only one wing of the build
ing has yet been erected ; when the other wing
shall be added, the college will accommodate one
hundred students. The villa of Captain Horton is most
pleasantly situated among surrounding garden-grounds ;
and I spent a pleasant evening in company with him
self, his wife, the ministers of the neighbourhood, and
several intelligent and social friends, who resided
in that part of the colony. It was delightful to see
the school- children sporting themselves in the sur
rounding fields, on this their New Year's festival, and to
hear their merry voices ringing out among the hills the
music of their Sunday school ditties and songs, as they
went home at sunset, in Captain Horton's farm-waggons,
to Ross and other adjacent places. This, too, was
English-like ; it reminded one of happy Sabbath school
festivities in dear old Yorkshire and Lincolnshire.
Wed., Jan. 2. — Went forward by coach to Hobart-
Town. The scenery on the second day pleasingly re
sembled that which I had passed over on the first ; but in
some parts, — such as from the descent of " Constitution
Hill," — it was increasingly impressive in boldness and
m 2

124 TALES OF SPORTSMEN.
grandeur. We drove through more towns and villages
bearing English names ; but in one region of our drive
there were hamlets which, from their nomenclature,
one would suppose had been first peopled by Crusaders,
being called Jericho, and Jerusalem, with the river
" Jordan " to water them. In our course, the forests
on the mountain-ranges at the sides thickened and
darkened ; and we were joined on the coach by some
Kangaroo-hunters, and their large Scotch-deer-hound
like dogs. I listened earnestly to the relation of their
sports, and to the wonderful accounts they gave of the
daring conflicts they and their dogs had braved with
their bounding game. They had been on the high
table-land, where there are large lakes, — one of them,
they said, as much as ninety miles in circumference,
and more than three thousand feet above the level of the
sea. These lakes form the heads of several rivers ; and
are surrounded by extensive plains and forests. Some
of the male kangaroos, called "boomers," were de
scribed as being four or five feet high, and as having
sprung, by the power of their tails and long hinder
legs, as much as a dozen yards at a bound. When
brought to bay by the dogs they had fought desperately ;
and had placed their backs against the trees, so that they
could not be seized from behind. This enabled them,
both by mouth and limbs, to deal savagely with their
antagonists: Our hunting companions could also tell of
opossum-shooting by moonlight, and of the peculiar
habits of the " wombat," or native badger. They also
proclaimed themselves well acquainted with the haunts
of the Tasmanian eagle, which is fearfully destructive to
lambs ; — they had seen the emu, or Australian ostrich,
running wild ; and talked of shooting-sport with black

ARRIVAL AT HOBART-TOWN. 125
swans, pelicans, cormorants, and penguins, as well as
with hawks and vultures.
Some of the trees we passed were of gigantic growth,
with trunks as much as five or six feet in diameter, and
wild flowers and heaths of great luxuriance and beauty
were, in parts, spread over the ground, — while orchids
and elegantly interwoven creepers gracefully festooned
the extending branches. Moths were seen almost equal
in size to small birds. The wren, the king-fisher, and
diamond- birds of brilliant plumage, appeared at inter
vals. Some of the feathered songsters were musical,
yet they were not equal to the singing-birds of Europe ;
and, on the whole, the voice of the cheerful magpie,
which, instead of the noisy chattering it makes in
England, here often seems to mock the flute, was the
most pleasing to my ears. Our road lay through
increasingly neat towns and hamlets as we advanced.
We crossed a lake-like branch of the Derwent river, at
Bridgewater, on a sort of tramway, made by convict
labour ; and after passing through New Town, with its
orphan-schools on the right, and its shops, houses, and
places of worship on the left, we descended, among
suburban villas and cottages, into the main street of
Hobart-Town, arriving at the coach office by about seven
in the evening. I found there a group of Methodist friends
waiting to welcome me. One of the sons of the late Rev.
John Waterhouse, the first general superintendent of
our Australasian Missions, drove me to his pleasant resi
dence at Sandy Bay, from which I could survey at leisure,
and with advantage, both the harbour and the town.
Here I found the widow of Mr. Waterhouse, residing
with her son ; and spent the evening with a company of
m 3

126 ARRIVAL AT HOBART-TOWN.
friends, in answering inquiries concerning Methodism
and its supporters in England.
Thurs., Frid., Sat., Jan. 3, 4, and 5. — Went about
Hobart-Town, viewing it from different points ; visiting
its museum of Tasmanian animals, birds, and produc
tions of various kinds; and also made excursions to the
more picturesque parts around. During those days I
had also very pleasant intercourse with our ministers
and with Wesleyan friends, — finding here also several
Methodists whom I had known at home. Some of the
surrounding scenery is fine and romantic, particularly
on the drive round Brown's Hill, and from Kangaroo
Island. The Government domain, too, is large and
imposing, as viewed from the water at the south ; and
the Botanical Gardens and Queen's Park adjoining, are
extensive and pleasant. On the Friday evening I
preached to a good and respectable congregation at
Brien's Bridge, about five miles north of the city, from
John xiv. 1-3 ; — dwelling upon the attractions of our
Father's house, in which there are many mansions.
Tender thoughts of home were present with all of us ;
and the service was one of much feeling. It was at this
place that the Rev. Joseph Orton, our missionary,
preached his first sermon in Tasmania.
Sun., Jan. 6. — Preached twice at Hobart-Town;
and, being the first Sunday in the year, renewed
the " Covenant," according to Wesleyan custom.
The attendance in the morning and evening was
large, and in the afternoon, at the renewing of the
" Covenant," the lower part of the chapel was well
filled. I did not know so many in the congregation,
or in the church, as I knew among our people in Vic
toria : still I knew several of them ; and this day is for

RETURN TO LAUNCESTON. 127
ever solemnized by the fact that in it Mr. Dunn, a
wealthy banker in the city, and one of our church-
members, heard his last sermon; for he was almost
immediately afterwards removed by death to the eternal
world. Mon., Jan. 7. — At five in the morning returned by
coach to Launceston, to be in readiness to cross Bass'
Straits the next day for Melbourne.
Hobart-Town is situated on sloping hills, by the side
of the broad Derwent water, just where it opens to an
immense sea-harbour, and at about forty miles' distance
from the southern boundary of the colony. The city
contains nearly twenty thousand inhabitants. It has
good, well-paved streets, lined with large shops and
stores, and is adorned with public buildings of respect
able character: among them are numerous churches
and chapels of the several denominations. The heart of
the city — where business is carried on — is on the lower
ground near the river ; and cottages, villas, and terraces
and gardens cover the sides and crests of seven hills,
which bound Hobart-Town. The large harbour is
exceedingly safe and commodious, and has many good
warehouses at its head. The entrance from the sea
southwards is between outlying islands, and by bold
rocks and cliffs, with olive green hills of pleasant mould.
Hobart-Town, from the harbour near to Kangaroo
Point, with its shipping, hills, and buildings, varied by
shrubberies and gardens, and backed by Mount Wel
lington, — which, with its grand basaltic columns, rises
four thousand two hundred feet high, and casts its dark,
solemn shadow over much of the scene from its roots
down to the water's edge, — forms a picture of sombre

128 NOTES ON TASMANIA.
magnificence ! — especially as seen reflected and doubled
in the glassy face of " Sullivan's Cove " in front. It
has its markets, newspapers, cab-stands, &c, much after
the pattern of English towns of similar size ; and, in all
respects, gives unmistakeable proof that it belongs to
Great Britain.

Tasmania is a valuable and attractive colony. In its
extreme length it is two hundred and fifty miles, and in
extreme breadth two hundred miles ; but in configura
tion it is very irregular. Its general form is that of a
heart, with the point turned toward the south ; and
from the chain of rocky islands running from its north
east angle, over the one hundred and twenty miles of
Bass' Straits to Victoria, some express no doubt of its
having been, at a former period, a part of the mainland
of Australia. Indeed, it is said, that Ben Lomond is
the culminating point of the Australian Alps. The con
tents of Tasmania are reckoned to be about twenty-four
thousand square miles, or some fifteen millions of acres,
making it appear that it is nearly as large as Ireland.
There belong to it as many as twenty-three small out
lying islands, some of which are mounted with light
houses, and others are noted for mineral treasures and
precious stones. Its surface, is very uneven, and dis
plays almost every variety of scenery. The lofty moun
tain, the verdant valley, the wild, bold, rocky shore,
extensive sheeplands and cattle-plains, waving corn
fields, dark unbroken forests, and highly cultivated

NOTES ON TASMANIA. 129
gardens and pleasure grounds, are all to be found in it.
The general character ofthe island is mountainous, with
many lovely valleys between the numerous elevations,
rendered abundantly fruitful by rivers and streams,
which descend from the high lands, and water large
tracts of country in their course to the sea. In the
western range of mountains are large subterranean
caves, said by those who have seen them to be, with
their meeting stalactites and stalagmites, and crystal
pillars supporting roofs of immense height, exceedingly
grand and sublime. Common English flowers, fruits,
and vegetables, flourish in the island ; the plants and
trees of almost all quarters of the globe thrive in it ; and
scientific men have pronounced its climate to be, at
different periods of the year, equal to the climates of
France, Switzerland, Italy, and the best parts of the Me
diterranean ; and, on the whole, to be the most healthy
climate in the world, — being never too hot nor too cold.
It has abundance of good soil and good timber yet
unappropriated, and awaiting the enterprise of man.
Much of its soil is remarkable in fertility; and after
years of production, without the aid of manure, still
yields large crops. Some of its trees are of gigantic
size, measuring as much as three hundred feet in
height, and being of corresponding girth. The pine
and the gum tree attain immense growth; while
the myrtle is not like our small fragrant shrub,
but is a large, spreading tree, from fifty to two
hundred feet high, in the hollow trunk of which
several persons may shelter at the same time. Coal is
found in most parts of the colony, and is sold in the
market for from thirty shillings to two pounds per ton.
Gold has been discovered in several localities, though

130 NOTES ON TASMANIA.
not in such quantities as to repay the emigrant digger.
Other mineral treasures are known to exist in the
island ; but no earnest attempt has yet been made to
develope them. Its corn ranks among the best in the
world, as declared at the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; and
its wool commands a high place in the home market.
Although, till 1853, it was a penal colony, the con
vict class hardly form a fourth of its ninety thousand
inhabitants : many ofthe "old hands" having rushed to
the diggings across the Straits, when gold was discovered
in New South Wales and in Victoria ; and the state of
society is such that it is no uncommon thing for persons,
even in lonely parts, to leave their doors unlocked when
they retire to bed. Many harrowing tales are told of
robberies and murders by bushrangers and outlaws;
but they are all of past periods, and not of the present.
The black Aborigines, once so perilous, and who used to
come into the towns by fifty together, have dwindled
down to some dozen old people, and are protected and
supported, in one place, by Government. From its
commencement the colony has been resorted to by
settlers of unquestionable respectability. Their gabled
cottages and imposing mansions, in the midst of lovely
gardens and park-like scenery, have an English aspect
which cannot fail to delight the sons and daughters of
Great Britain. Churches, chapels, and schools are
spread over its fourteen counties, and its two hundred
towns and villages. The Church of England numbers,
by its comprehensive mode of reckoning all not claimed
by other denominations, about one half of the popula
tion; and on this account receives large Government
aid. The Roman Catholics number some seventeen
thousand in Tasmania, and have a seat for their chief

NOTES ON TASMANIA. 131
prelate in the Legislative Council of the Government.
Presbyterians, Independents, Baptists, and most of
the Christian denominations in the old country, have
their churches and ministers here. Methodism has its
network of Circuits spread over the island, and has its
chapels, preaching-places, and schools, in every place of
importance. The first Methodist sermon preached in
Tasmania was by the Rev. Benjamin Carvosso, in 1820,
when detained at Hobart-Town on his way to New
South Wales he stood upon the steps of the Court
House, with Mrs. Broadbent at his side, and warned the
sinful people to flee from the wrath to come. Our first
regularly appointed Missionary there was the Rev.
William Horton, a relative of Captain Horton, the
generous patron of the college near Ross. Now, we
have in it 69 chapels and preaching-places, supplied by
11 ministers and 46 local -preachers ; and we number
2,000 fully accredited church members, 2,000 Sabbath
and day scholars, and 6,400 regular attendants on Wes
leyan services. In addition to the support of its
several agents and institutions for itself, Methodism
in Tasmania supplies £1,000 a year for the spread of
Missions to the heathen in the islands beyond.
Since 1856 the government ofthe colony has, for the
most part, been committed to itself; and though some
strange things may, at times, have been said and
attempted in the Legislative Council and House of
Assembly, yet there can be no doubt of the general and
hearty loyalty of Tasmania to England. It gave proof
of this recently in its noble subscription to the " Patri
otic Fund " for the aid of the Widows and Orphans of
the Crimean War, of a sum equal to 35s. 8d. for every
householder, or of 6s. Sd. for every soul in the colony :

132 NOTES ON TASMANIA.
a subscription unparalleled, in its proportion, within the
British dominions.
In my way back to Melbourne I gathered additional
information on the resources and prospects of Tas
mania from a plain, common-sense man, formerly of
Brigg, in Lincolnshire, my own native county. In a
comparatively short time, he had, by labour and farm
ing in the northern part of the island, obtained a com
petency for himself and his family. Good, cultivable
land can be had there for twenty shillings per acre in
the more eligible parts, and for ten shillings where less
so. Sheep-farming in the best counties, and on clean
runs, is a profitable investment for capital, and returns as
much, in some instances, as twenty-five per cent. Cattle,
to the number of nearly 100,000, are depastured in the
island, and sell for £12, and up to £16, a head. There
are in the colony more than 20,000 horses, some of
which are of good breed, and fetch large prices. The
northern part of the island is more productive of corn
than the southern, and may be called "the granary
of Tasmania." Large exports are made from it by
shipping, at its nearer port of Launceston ; and now
that the convict system is abolished, and the bad pres
tige of its arrivals taken away from Hobart-Town, it is
not improbable that the northern port will be more
prosperous than the southern. The greater nearness of
Launceston to Australia will be likely to favour its
growth and prosperity. Immense quantities of fruits
and vegetables are sent from Tasmania to Victoria ; and
of the total exports from the colony in the year 1858,
amounting to considerably more than one milhon,
Launceston made nearly one hundred thousand pounds ;
above half the total sum. Wages for masons,

RE-PASSAGE OF BASS' STRAITS, TO MELBOURNE. 133
carpenters, plumbers, &c, range from 7s. to 14s. per
day. Shepherds, farm-labourers, and servants, range
from £25 to £50 a year with rations, or living. Beef
and mutton range from 4<d. to 8d. per pound ; bread is
9d. the four-pound loaf; and tea 2s., or 2s. 6d., per
pound. Wearing apparel and house rent are both more
expensive than in our own country.

Tues., Jan. 8. — Left Launceston by the " Shepherd
King " steamer, at ten in the forenoon. We had a
goodly number of respectable passengers on board.
Our cargo of fruit and vegetables, for Victoria, was also
heavy. The weather was fine, and it was pleasant
crossing Bass' Straits to-day.
Wed., Jan. 9. — Arrived at Melbourne by three in the
afternoon ; and spent the remainder of the day in
packing up and preparing for departure.

CHAPTER VI.
Voyage from Melbourne to Sydney — Port Jackson — Eeception at Sydney
—Opening of the Australasian Conference — Paramatta — Eeturn to
Sydney — University — Bible Society Meeting — Beautiful Suburbs and
Neighbourhood of Sydney — The last Native — Again to Paramatta —
Bichmond — Bullock-Drays and Loads of Wool — Splendid View of
Sydney and its Harbour — Botany Bay — House of Legislation — Notes
on Sydney and New South Wales — The Australasian Conference and
Methodism on the other side of the Globe.

Thurs., Jan. 10. — About ten in the morning left
Sandridge pier, Melbourne, with . my wife and several
of the ministers from Victoria, Tasmania, and South
Australia, for Sydney, — where the Australasian Con
ference of Wesleyan ministers was to open on the 17th
of the month. The sea-breeze was refreshing after
the heat on land, which had been almost suffocating,
from the hot wind blowing over the northern interior,
that had recently prevailed.
Frid. and Sat., Jan. 11 and 12. — We had some
tossings at sea, so that many passengers were confined
to their berths much of the time. Mrs. Jobson and
I escaped sea-sickness, as usual ; but, our cabins being
crowded and close, we experienced considerable dis
comfort ; and I had little or no sleep during the whole
of our passage from Melbourne to Sydney. Through
the roughness of the weather, we had to bear out
further to sea than we should have done if it had been

PORT JACKSON. 135
smoother : so that in the whole of our course of from
five to six hundred miles we saw but little of the coast,
and where we saw it the interior of the country was
not discernible.
Sun., Jan. 13. — Arrived at the "heads" of Port
Jackson by four o'clock in the morning, under
drizzling rain. We wound «our serpentine way amidst
the hills and the islands of the harbour, and reached
the quay at Sydney in another hour ; but remained on
board till seven, when the Rev. John Eggleston, President
of the Australasian Conference, and Secretary for our
Missions in this region, (a friend of my youth,) came,
together with the Hon. Alexander M'Arthur, son-
in-law of the Rev. William B. Boyce, to welcome us
ashore ; and Mr. Mf Arthur drove us up in his carriage
to his mansion at Glebe Point. I was sorely weary,
for want of sleep ; and most of my ministerial com
panions were unable, from the effects of the voyage, to
fulfil their appointments for the day. Knowing, how
ever, that I was expected by the people, I preached
at Bourke Street in the morning, and again in the
evening at York Street Chapel, and in both instances
to large and exciting congregations.
Mon., Jan. 14. — Visited, by special invitation, the
mansion of Mr. Mort, a gentleman of great taste, who
has erected a splendid gothic house at a distance of
about two miles from Sydney, on a beautiful hill, over
looking the wide water which runs from the " heads "
to the harbour of the city. The house is stored with a
superb collection of pictures by the best masters,
brought here from England. I was agreeably sur
prised to find a mansion of such taste, and so rich a
collection of pictures, at such a distance from the old
n 2

136 OPENING OF THE AUSTRALASIAN CONFERENCE.
country, and in this new southern world. The real
refinement of the company, who, at Mr. Mort's invita
tion, had come to view the pictures, was also a surprise
to me in this quarter of the globe. The dress,
equipages, and bearing of the guests, seemed to me
equal to what are found in connexion with elite gather
ings at the west end of London ; while the views and
opening prospects from the surrounding balconies and
grounds were almost as fine as the Lake of Lucerne,
without, of course, the panorama of snow-crested Alps
beyond. In the evening I attended a large meeting in
York Street Chapel, to receive public congratulations
from ministers and friends on my arrival amongst them.
I found there many whom I had known in England ;
and nothing could be more respectful and hearty than
the welcome they gave me. Many a burst of both
British and Methodist loyalty broke forth in the 'meet
ing ; and much feeling was evinced at the remembrance
of Zion at home.
Tues. and Wed., Jan. 15 and 16. — Most of the time
devoted to letter-writing for England, and to social
intercourse with friends ; and the remainder of it spent
in the " Stationing-Committee " of the Conference
among representatives from the several colonies and
islands of the Pacific, who at this preparatory meeting,
sketch out a draft of ministerial appointments for the
Circuits, as nearly as possible according to the recom
mendations of the annual District-committee meetings,
to be afterwards modified, or confirmed, by the Con
ference. Thurs., Jan. 17. — The Conference opened, and con
tinued proceedings until Saturday, February 2nd ;
during which seventeen days I attended regularly its

PREACHING AT SYDNEY. 137
sessions, preaching and holding public religious services
in the different chapels of the city and neighbourhood
on Sundays and week-evenings. At nearly all these
services, there were those present who had been in my
congregations at home ; and some were the sons and
daughters of parents I had known intimately. Remi
niscences of early days and associations were affecting
beyond expression ; and many whom I had not known
before thronged around me at the doors ofthe vestibule,
with inquiries concerning the " fatherland," as if I
had been acquainted with all persons in it. The
chapels were usually wedged full inside ; and, in some
instances, crowded round outside far into the street,
or grounds adjoining ; so that in this, the Australian
midsummer, the heat was oppressive almost to suffoca
tion. Yet the effects of excessive perspiration, and of
confined atmosphere, upon the preacher, were not what
they would have been in England. There is a re-
invigorating power in the air of Australia not known
here; and with almost daily services, both protracted and
earnest, I experienced nothing of the " clergyman's sore
throat," nor had scarcely the full ring of my voice at
any time impaired. The tunes sung were English ;
and they were sounded forth with a strength and
fulness of voice found only in old Yorkshire. And
here, in this elder colony, were a due proportion of aged
persons ; so that the general aspect of the assemblies
was still more British than in the younger colony of
Victoria, where but few in the congregations are
advanced in years. Indeed, the order, tone, and
appearance, at the public services, were so truly English,
that one might have imagined they were held in
the heart of Yorkshire, Lincolnshire, or Lancashire,
n 3

138 . PARAMATTA.
rather than fifteen thousand miles distant from our
shores. Sat., Feb. 2. — At six o'clock in the evening went by
rail to Paramatta, which is about fourteen miles north
east of Sydney, and which is one of the oldest settle
ments in the colony. The clearings and dwellings in
the way did not present much novelty of feature,
except that here and there would be seen standing
upright in the fields, and around temporary abodes,
charred stumps of trees. Mrs. Jobson and I were
hospitably entertained at Mr. Byrne's, who with his
friendly wife and family spared no pains to make us
feel at home in the strange land. We found here the
heat more humid, and the musquitos more troublesome,
than in Sydney; but such kind attentions were ren
dered us, that we could scarcely think of more personal
comfort than that which here fell to our lot.
Sun., Feb. 3. — Preached at eleven in the Wesleyan
chapel of Paramatta to a full congregation ; but was so
oppressed with moist heat, that I was scarcely able to
proceed with the service. In the afternoon a storm
came down on the town, and a deluge of water tore up
the streets into gullies, rendering them almost impass
able. Preached again in the evening, the heat having
somewhat abated ; and afterwards, with Rev. John A.
Manton, our superintendent minister at Paramatta,
and Rev. D. J. Draper, from Victoria, administered
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper to church-
members. Mon., Feb. 4. — After breakfast, was driven by Mr.
Oates in hi3 carriage through and around the town,
alighting at points of interest on our way, and visiting
orange orchards belonging to our friend, who drove us.

PARAMATTA. 139
Paramatta lies in a hollow, screened by the rising
grounds about it from the cooling breezes of the sea ;
and it is this, its low and sheltered situation, which
accounts for the steaming heat that at times rises from
it. Otherwise, the town, which has in it some sixteen
thousand inhabitants, and mostly old settlers, is good
and pleasant ; so much so, that it is quite a place of
resort for change and recreation by the residents at
Sydney. Paramatta has some good buildings, both
private and public ; and its main streets have in them
good shops and stores ; but its intervening gardens and
grounds are spacious and numerous, so that a rural
character is largely preserved for the town. Many an
English oak, planted by early settlers, may be seen in
Paramatta, though the tree will not be so large and
robust as if it grew in the old country. Oranges and
vines are found here growing in abundance. Several
large structures remain to show that, formerly, when
Paramatta was the seat of Government, and a convict
settlement, it was a place of importance. Among these
are the Government House, with its surrounding domain,
now deserted ; penitentiaries and prisons for refractory
criminals also remain, but they are left to fall into
decay. The drives around the town are pleasing and
picturesque ; the rising lands on every side are carefully
cultivated, and tastefully laid out in orchards, and for
agriculture. Amidst the more central buildings of the
town, rises, with imposing effect, the double-towered
church originally built by the lady of Governor Mac-
quarie, for the first and good clergyman of the Church
of England in the colony, the Rev. S. Marsden, who so
fraternally co-operated with Methodist missionaries for
the establishment of Christianity, both in this colony

140

RETURN TO SYDNEY.

and in New Zealand. The old church, with its leaden
spires, is not unlike Southwell minster in its general
aspect. And the massive red brick parsonage of the
devoted and laborious clergyman is on the side of the
hill west of the church. There is an air of general
prosperity pervading the place, and the residents are
celebrated for their generous hospitality. Most denomi
nations of Christians have their churches and places of
worship at Paramatta. It was an early station with the
Methodists. We have two chapels in it, which are
soon, it is hoped, to be superseded by larger and more
spacious structures. Most of our ministers of public
name in Australia have resided here at one time or other.
It was here that the devoted and laborious Walter Lawry
terminated his missionary life. I saw the broad-eaved
cottage in which he died, and also the cemetery on the
side of the hill opposite, in which his remains are in
terred. In his old age scandal was busy against him
with her many tongues ; but his name is in this part
as ointment poured forth.
At eleven in the forenoon, Mrs. Jobson and I left in
the steamer for Sydney, accompanied on our way as far
as Ryde by Mrs. Byrne and her daughter. On driving
to the steamer we passed some factories in the valley, at
the side of the water, which, from a mile distant, runs
as little more than a broad stream through the town.
Soon after we started, the river opene'd out to consider
able width. It resembled the upper part ofthe Thames,
between London and Richmond; only at intervals it
was skirted by branches of adjoining forests, and more
scooped out into graceful coves and bays. At Ryde we
saw large orchards of oranges and lemons, and visited
our minister, the Rev. R. Amos, resident there. After-

UNIVERSITY. 141
wards, we took another steamer for Sydney ; but before
we reached the city a heavy thunder storm fell upon us,
and shrouded river, rocks, and trees in dark, solemn
grandeur. The weather cleared sufficiently to show us
Cockatoo Island, a strongly fortified place of banish
ment for refractory criminals. Here we crossed the
harbour to the landing pier of the capital ; and there
found our friend Mr. M'Arthur waiting for us with his
carriage, to convey us to the glebe.
Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., Feb. 5-8. — Devoted
to letter- writing, visitation of friends, and of public
institutions. One evening was pleasantly spent at the
University, where Dr. Woolley, the Principal, gave us
and our friends of the glebe handsome entertainment,
amidst his clerical professors and associates. The
buildings of the University are large, richly orna
mented in the decorated style of gothic architecture,
and are highly creditable to the architect and to the
city. The large hall is equal to the best halls of our
colleges at Oxford and Cambridge, and is rich in effect
by its Westminster Hall-like open roof, supported by
angels, and by historic windows of good coloured glass.
It has a spacious, well-stored library, a choice museum
of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities, and excel
lent lecture and class rooms. Some £75,000 of public
money have been spent upon it ; but the central tower
over the principal entrance has yet to be erected, as well
as some necessary appendages ; and £25,000, it is
reckoned, will be required to complete it. There is no
religious test in the University. Adjoining grounds
have been granted by the Government to different
Christian denominations, upon which to erect colleges
for the instruction and training of youth in their

142 bible society meeting.
respective tenets. But little has yet been done in this
direction ; and some fear the results upon youth of the
most influential families of the colony thus left un
guarded, by college and religious training, against lati-
tudinarian principles.
Sat. and Sun., Feb. 9 and 10. — Obliged to remain
indoors and in bed, by severe illness, arising from over
labour and exhaustion ; so could not go to Maitland for
religious services there, as intended.
Mon., Feb. 11. — Somewhat better. Attended and
spoke at a large and spirited meeting of. the Bible
Society. Our friend, the Hon. George Allen, president
of the society, was in the chair ; and I was glad to be
able to show and express the catholicity of British
Christianity. At this meeting, however, it was appa
rent, that Protestants are under more restraint in speak
ing of Popery than in the old country.
Tues. and Wed., Feb. 12 and 13.— Wrote letters,
transacted official business with the President of the
Conference in the day time ; and in the evenings, by
the considerate and generous arrangements of my
host and his neighbours, the Aliens, met, in social
parties, different classes of citizens and colonists, from
the deputy Governor downwards.
Thurs., Feb. 14. — Was driven to the "heads"
of Port Jackson by Hyde Park, Surrey Hills,
and Paddington, passing the soldiers' barracks, and
several large houses on spacious grounds, possessed by
old convicts, or their immediate descendants. Then,
by a road over sandy hills and mounds, we drove
through a pretty suburb, tastefully named " Waverley."
Having reached the " heads," we stood on the shelving
edge of the stony cliff beyond the lighthouse, and looked

THE LAST NATIVE. 143
from its dizzy height over the wide water. Before us
lay the entrance to the harbour, with the red floating
light within, and hills covered with wood beyond;
while on our right stretched the blue expanse of the
Pacific Ocean. I sketched this view from the over
hanging crag of the cliff. We returned by another
road nearer the harbour, skirting its bays and
coves. It was a charming ride. The drive over hill
and dale, and round projections and inlets, diversified
the views sweetly. Villas girded with trees stud the
sloping hills, and the harbour is dotted in different
parts with lovely islands. Beyond these is Sydney,
with its towers and spires ; and the far background is
formed by a long line of blue mountains rising against
the sky.
We passed on the road the last remnant of the
aborigines who inhabited this part of the Australian
continent. He was named " Ricketty Dick," from his
having had a paralytic stroke that disabled his limbs.
He sat by the roadside, scantily covered by his dark,
tattered blanket, with his hands open in front, solicit-
ng alms. He moved, to take up the bit of silver
which was thrown to him, with difficulty ; and then
crawled into his dog-kennel-like hut among the trees,
behind. Food is usually supplied to him from the
houses of the gentry near; for, however cruel might
be the conduct of the first European settlers to the
poor natives, wherever any of the aborigines now
remain, they are universally treated with consideration
and kindness, so far as their own dispositions and
habits will allow.
On our way back we passed through Darlinghurst
and Wooloomooloo, genteel and healthy suburbs of

144 AGAIN TO PARAMATTA.
Sydney. The ground over which we passed in this
drive, and which was so generally studded with stately
and tasteful houses, was all covered with scrub but
five years ago.
Frid., Feb. 15.— Went with Mr. M'Arthur, at half-
past six in the morning, in a light conveyance to Para
matta, where we breakfasted at Williams's excellent
family hotel, and then drove to Windsor along a well-
made road, seeing good land and farmsteads on the way ;
several of them being possessed, or let, by the old con
victs. By half-past one we reached Windsor, a village-like
town by the Hawkesbury River, consisting of one long
street of shops and cottages, with gardens at the sides.
It contains a large Wesleyan chapel, and a massive
Episcopalian church of brick, with a plain, spacious
Roman Catholic chapel. Driving over swampy ground,
through the intervening woods, for four or five miles,
we reached Richmond, another town like a large
village, with streets laid out at right angles, and none
of them paved. It is a pleasant, rural place. The high
hills over the Hawkesbury- River are covered with
dense forest, and beyond these is the long range of the
" blue mountains " with their sugar-loaf points. We
intended to have gone further on, for a more extensive
view, and to have ascended the hills ; but a storm of
lightning and rain set in; so we were glad to take
refuge for the night in a rural inn, where we had very
comfortable accommodation.
Sat., Feb. 16. — Left Richmond at half-past seven in
the morning, for return to Sydney by another and a
less cultivated route. For twenty miles, or more, the
road, after the heavy fall of rain the night before, was
very trying to our horse; for we had to pass over

BULLOCK-DRAYS AND LOADS OF WOOL. 145
swamps, amidst stumps of trees, and through thickly
entangled bush and scrub. Our way lay for some time
through the forest. We passed some trees of gigantic
size and growth, and heard the odd medley of cackling)
bray, and chuckle notes from the " Laughing Jackass."
The land where cleared was good, and in parts opened to
us extensive farmsteads, with numerous cattle, and large
flocks of sheep. We overtook several heavily-laden
bullock drays with their wool packs, on their way to
Sydney. Some of them were dragging their ponderous
loads slowly along through the deep ruts of mud
roads, and others were resting by road-side inns, and
sheltering weary teamsmen stretched out at full length
under them for sleep. In some instances, these loads
of wool were dragged by eight or ten oxen. The rough,
bony, sun-browned men by their side have whips,
short in the stock, but with long cow-hide lashes, which,
after whirling round their heads, they throw with
amazing skill to the extremity of their team of
bullocks, so as to hit with fearful certainty any lagging
animal on the ear, nostril, or other tender part selected.
We rested some time at one of these way- side inns,
and saw, while there, much of rough colonial life. We
saw the bushman, tall, spare, active, and wiry, canter
up the road, and come leaping with loose rein over
fences till he reached the inn door, where, with face,
hands, and throat burnt to a ruddy bronze, he quenched
his thirst. We saw the stocksman, with gaunt frame,
long limbs, and weather-worn, seated upon his bony,
long-limbed steed, on which he has his home, driving
his cattle before him to the stockyard, aided by skilful
dogs. And we saw traveller after traveller enter for
refreshment and for rest. We could not pass further

146 SYDNEY AND ITS HARBOUR.
into the interior, as we had intended; for the recent
rain had broken down the roads at several parts so as to
make them impassable. We, therefore, returned to Syd
ney, reaching Mr. M'Arthur's mansion in the evening.
Sun., Feb. 17. — Preached again at Newtown, a
suburb of Sydney, in the forenoon. The chapel is new
and large, and is a good specimen of decorated gothic,
mostly taken, in its general design, from our " model
chapel " at Stockport, only much increased in dimen
sions. Preached in the Hon. George Allen's neat
Grecian chapel at the Glebe in the evening.
Mon., Feb. 18. — Crossed the harbour of the "North
Shore " in company with Rev. William Hessell, to view
from the highest elevation on that side of the water the
landscape of the far interior. It was a wondrous
sweep of brown green scrub and forest, with here and
there a glint of water in it ; and was bounded in the
distance by a long blue mountain range. Turning
our backs upon this vision of the wilderness, and de
scending a little, we had, perhaps, the grandest panorama
of Sydney that can be obtained from any point of view.
Down from our feet extended a mass of the dense
green foliage which so commonly meets the eye in
Australia. Seats and villas of the gentry were scattered
among it ; and on the right hand a pretty large
collection of houses of the working classes, forming
what may be termed a hamlet. Then the wide blue
waters of the harbour stretched away on either hand,
with small steamers plying across it to their several
points, and with ships of merchandise lying at anchor
before Sydney. The land on the other side of the
water was composed of a countless number of beautiful
and swelling rounded hills, here and there extending

SYDNEY AND ITS HARBOUR. 147
their bases into the harbour, so as to make it look like
a fringe of indentations. The summits of the terraced
hills before us were crowned by the houses, spiral
churches, and other public buildings of the city, with
the signal flag-staff in front,' the government house on
the left, and the University in the distance on the
right ; the whole forming a panorama of almost unsur
passed beauty. It was from our stand-point on the
rocks of the north shore that I sketched the view
which forms the frontispiece of this volume. It has
been copied as nearly as possible in colours, that my
readers may gain some idea of the hues of an Australian
landscape. Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., Feb. 19, 20, 21, and
22. — Spent in the examination of Sydney and its
neighbourhood, in writing letters, transacting public
business, and in preaching in the several chapels of
the city in the evenings.
Sat., Feb. 23. — Passed a pleasant day with a large
pic-nic party, who accompanied us to the " heads " and
the " middle harbour," in a steamer generously obtained
for us and our friends of the Glebe and of the Uni
versity, by George Wigram Allen, Esq., eldest son of
Hon. George Allen, son-in-law of Rev. William B.
Boyce, and who ranks high in the legal profession.
The " middle harbour " is even more romantic than
Port Jackson, and in bold rocky scenery covered
with trees and shrubbery, surrounding deep crystal
water, is equal to the finest scenes at the Scotch
lakes. Sun., Feb. 24. — Preached in the morning in the
large Congregational Church, Pitt Street, belonging to
Rev. W. Cuthbertson, B.A., a talented Independent
o 2

148 "

SYDNEY MORNING HERALD.

minister: a collection of nearly one hundred pounds
was made on behalf of that church. In the evening
preached a farewell sermon at Sydney, in York
Street Wesleyan Chapel, to an immense crowd. The
heat was intense, but did not seem to interfere with
the fervour of the service.
Mon., Feb. 25. — Passed a pleasant morning at the
residence of Mr. Fairfax, the energetic proprietor of the
"Sydney Morning Herald." The house has a pic
turesque perch on the shoulder of one of the highest hills
at the side of Port Jackson ; and is Elizabethan in its
style, with high, pointed, wooden gables. It commands,
from its terraces and grounds, most extensive views of
the harbour, city, and inland country. Mr. Fairfax is
from Warwickshire, and by intelligent perseverance has
made his position one of the most elevated and influen
tial. His newspaper is the "Times" of Sydney and
New South Wales ; and out of the fortune amassed by it
he has recently expended £30,000 upon handsome
freestone offices for the printing and publishing of his
daily journal. The " Herald" is said to have a circula
tion of from seven to eight thousand daily, and to be
worth to its proprietor £10,000 a year. It was sur
prising to see how soon the white sandy soil of his
grounds and gardens had become covered with verdure,
fruits, and flowers. In the evening met Dean Cowper,
with several of the principal clergymen and Noncon
formist ministers of the city, and some distinguished
official and professional gentlemen, at the Hon. George
Allen's, Toxteth Park. Mr. Allen had generously
assembled these interesting guests, in order' to make us
acquainted with colonial society. It was a cheerful
evening, profitably spent, and closed with religious

BOTANY BAY. 149
worship, in which Churchmen, Dissenters, and Method
ists fraternally and audibly united.
Tues. and Wed., Feb. 26 and 27.— Ill through ex
haustion, and not able to leave my bedroom.
Thurs., Feb. 28. — Went with my host and Mrs.
Jobson to view the world-known " Botany Bay." On
quitting the suburbs we crossed " Lachlan Swamp,"
where the water filters itself through the sandy soil, and
is afterwards collected for the use of the city, and con
veyed thither in pipes. This vast sponge-hollow is a
region of snakes and reptiles, some of which are large
and deadly.
Botany Bay, undeservedly but indelibly branded as
the high place of exiled felony, (for it never was occu
pied more than a few weeks as a convict settlement,) is
a large round indenture of some miles into the land,
with a narrow opening to the sea, a few miles south of
the " heads " of Port Jackson. There is a great variety
of shrubbery and trees around it, but no remarkable
profusion of flowers; yet it was the splendour of its
new floral show, as well as I remember the account,
which caused Dr. Solander, the companion of Captain
Cook, to give it the name of " Botany Bay." By the side
of it is an hotel, with beautiful grounds, and a curious
and valuable menagerie of Australian beasts and birds ;
while within the house are preserved the stuffed forms
of numerous snakes and reptiles. I spent some time in
minutely examining these, and in observing their re
spective peculiarities. This place is much resorted to
by the citizens of Sydney in their family and pic-nic
parties ; and we were gratified to learn from a board at
the entrance of the grounds, that the keeper of the
o 3

150

BALMAIN.

hotel, who is a Wesleyan, closes it against all visitors
on Sundays. Lovely as is the scenery skirting the bay,
and comparatively near to the capital as it is, yet it has
not been chosen for suburban residences. Perhaps the
dishonoured designation attached to it has prevented
this ; for it would not be the most pleasant association
with the name of a gentleman resident there, to have his
letters directed from England to him at " Botany Bay !"
In the afternoon of Thursday I went to Balmain,
another suburb of the city, across the water, to call
upon friends, and to select a cabin for our return to
England in the " Jeddo," which was in an arm of the
harbour behind. I had previously been at Balmain,
opening a tasteful gothic chapel, designed by Mr. Mans
field, jun., who was also the architect of the excellent
new chapel at Newtown, in which I preached. We
were kindly entertained at the pleasant villa of Rev. R.
Mansfield, (father of the architect just named,) who
some time since retired from ministerial service among
us, but who yet occasionally preaches in our chapels of
the city and neighbourhood, and is highly esteemed.
We also found, in a rural cottage by the water, the
daughter of a family with whom we were intimate in
Manchester, and who, with her husband and children,
resides here. Our steamship promised well by her
appearance ; and on returning to the shore we saw the
" John Wesley," our tight and buoyant missionary ship
fromthe isles ofthe Pacific, waiting for Rev. James Calvert
and his associates, who were expected to be at Sydney
in a few days, from England. On our return from
Balmain to the Glebe by water, we fell into the hands
of a sharper, who charged seven shillings for rowing us
across. In the evening we visited the Exhibition of the

HOUSE OF LEGISLATION. 151
" Society of Arts," in Pitt Street, and found in it many
instructive specimens of the produce of New South
Wales. The varieties of wood, and the samples of
gold from the colony, were especially interesting.
Mingled with these were numerous works of art. Those
in marble and different metals were excellent ; but the
colonial paintings were very inferior to English. On
the whole, however, the exhibition was good, and even
surprising, in so distant a part of the world.
Frid., March 1 . — Was driven by the Hon. George
Allen to the House of Legislation, and went with him
through both the upper and lower chambers ; hearing
the debates, and observing, once more, the order and
character of the proceedings. Large and handsome
buildings are about to be erected by the Government
on the old site, which will cost, it is estimated, £200,000.
In the evening I had a farewell meeting in York Street
Chapel with the Wesleyan Societies of Sydney, and
addressed them on personal piety, family religion, and
the duties they had to perform for God and for Method
ism in the land of their adoption.
Sat., March 2. — At two in the afternoon, after pack
ing up during the morning, Mrs. Jobson and I left the
hospitable abode of my good and princely host, the Hon.
Alexander M'Artbur, bidding a tender farewell to him
and his family, as well as to a large number of ministers
and friends, 'who crowded the pier to witness our
departure, in the " City of Sydney " steamer. We left
Sydney for Melbourne at three in the afternoon, grate
ful for the affectionate kindness shown to us during our
protracted stay in Sydney ; and saddened by the thought
that, probably, we should see but very few of our friends
again on earth.

152

NOTES ON SYDNEY.

I spent full seven weeks in Sydney and its neigh
bourhood, having, as noted in my journal, friendly in-
tercourse with all classes of persons, and free access to
all sources of information. It is a wonderful city for
situation. The harbour is large and fine, and in capa
city, safety, and romantic grandeur, equal to any harbour
of the world. It is entered seven miles distant from the
capital, by as striking a portal as the coast could pos
sibly supply. The opening from the ocean is two miles
wide, between majestic headlands, three hundred and
fifty feet high. The passage is then serpentine, through
what may be called a series of lakes of pure blue water,
indented with picturesque bays and coves, bordered
and surrounded with richly wooded, rocky hills, that are
dotted and crested with mansions, villas, and cottages,
of every variety of form and style. All this part of the
water is called " Port Jackson." The foliage on the rocks,
hills, and cliffs around, though not as leaden and mono
tonous as in wholly uncultivated parts, yet is somewhat
.dull to English eyes ; and lacks the warmer greens, golden
yellows, and the rich browns, of our European landscape.
It is heavy in colouring. As you proceed, the passage
narrows, and numerous lovely islets dot the channel,
clothed luxuriantly with trees and verdure. Turning
round one island covered with fort and batteries, which
command the entrance at its straitest point, you enter
the harbour, which is two or three miles wide, com
pletely landlocked, with good anchorage, and securely
sheltered from storms. Here are seen extensive docks,
wharves, ship yards, and landing-piers, thronged by ves
sels of various tonnage, while, rising terrace-like above
these on hill over hill, and far away on the left and the

NOTES ON SYDNEY. 153
right, are the buildings of this metropolitan city of the
parent colony.
Not much of the character of Sydney can be seen
until you land, and climb your way to the main streets ;
but, then, all is so thoroughly English, that the visitor
might well suppose he had been by some mysterious
power borne over the fifteen thousand intervening miles,
and suddenly put down into some familiar part of the
British metropolis. George Street, and Pitt Street, —
the two long parallel streets running up through the
city from near the landing, — are more than two miles
long, eighty feet wide, and are enclosed on either hand
with handsome warehouses, shops, and stores, equal to
anything seen in Liverpool and Bristol. The streets
are well macadamized, the pavements at the sides are
broad and well kerbed, and the lofty edifices are mostly
of clean freestone, taken from the rocky bed of the sites
on which they rest. The crowds, the stir, and the gay
equipages, would almost lead you to suppose you were
in Bond Street, or Oxford Street, of our own metrop
olis ; while the various pubhc cries of " Fish, ho ! "
" Old clo' ! " the shouts of omnibus conductors for
" Paddington," " Surrey Hills," &c, and the hail from
the driver on his perched -up seat behind his " Hansom,"
with stretched-out whip, of " Cab, Sir ?" all remind you
of dear old London. The only reminders in the streets
that you are on foreign ground, are that here and there
you see, amidst slender vehicles and gay equipages, on
the middle carriage-way, a bullock- waggon, dragging its
heavy load down towards the quay ; and that, on the
pathways at the sides, you meet rough, sunburnt men
from the interior, clad in loose clothing, bound around
the waist with broad buckled straps, and wearing muddy
leathern boots, which reach far up their thighs.

154 NOTES ON SYDNEY.
The public buildings of the capital are numerous, and
-may be favourably compared with those of our second-
class cities and towns, if not, in all instances, with those
of first rank among us. Some of the more recent struc
tures are as imposing, and as consistent in style, as the
public buildings of our principal seaport and manufac
turing towns, and have almost a marble purity in their
material. The parks, grounds, and gardens of the
suburbs, are large, spacious, and well laid out. The
Government domain, with its winding walks amidst
rocks and trees by the sea side, is romantic and beauti
ful ; the Botanical Gardens, with their grand Norfolk
pines, containing almost every variety of tropical plants
and flowers, and in which, as you saunter along,
you may hear the military band playing some familiar
air, and ending with " God save the Queen," are delight
fully situated around a cove of pure water, where nume
rous pleasure-boats, of various forms and colours, ply to
and fro ; and " Hyde Park," though within the city, and
poor in trees and verdure, as well as limited in its
extent, when compared to our own great western outlet,
is, nevertheless, a healthy lung or breathing-place for
the citizens, and is surrounded with terraces, mansions,
and ecclesiastical structures of striking character.
Sydney, in itself and immediate suburbs, contains,
according to the last census, 92,642 inhabitants. Its
climate is hot in summer, but dry and salubrious ; yet,
at times, terrific storms of thunder and lightning, rain
and dust, sweep over the city, and plough up its roads
into deep ruts and trenches. There are also storms of
heated dust, which pass over the city, and move like a
compact wall across it, darkening the sun, reddening the
sky, withering the trees, and making the scorched earth

NOTES ON SYDNEY. 155
crack under them, as if it were a globe of brittle pot
tery. These hot dust storms are terrific in their aspect
to strangers. One would suppose that the seals of the
Apocalypse were being broken, that the day had come
which shall " burn as an oven," and that the elements
were about to be dissolved with fervent heat. These
visitations are called " brickfielders " by the colonists ;
I suppose because of their brick-red glare. They bear
with them in their course pulverized, sandy dust, which
penetrates every crevice and key-hole of the most shel
tered abodes. At these times, the thermometer rises to
one hundred, and more, in the shade, and all things are
still and breathless. The " brickfielders " are usually
followed, before the day closes, with " southbusters," as
they are named, from their coming from the sea at the
south; and then the mercury will suddenly sink down
forty or fifty degrees, until fires and great coats seem
desirable. One of these " brickfielders " passed over
Sydney while we were there : when it seemed, as we
looked from our balcony at the Glebe towards the city,
as if the Last Seal were opened, and the destroying
angel had received his commission to go forth. It was a
scene fit for the tragic pencil of Martin. We were told
that sometimes these Australian siroccos last for two or
three days, and that then the effects are fearful. Birds
drop dead from the trees, insects die, dogs and cattle
put out their tongues with burning dryness, and trees
and plants shrivel up like bunches of scorched sticks
and straws. Scarcely a blade of grass, or a leaf
upon a tree, is left; and human beings fall down
dead in the streets. In the interior, bush-fires kin
dle and burn with fearful fury. Some old colonists
affirm that these storms are moderating, as internal

156

NOTES ON SYDNEY.

cultivation advances. It is to be hoped that it will
prove to be so.
The evenings at Sydney were, at times, singularly
beautiful. The moon was so bright and large that you
could see to read by it. The stars, too, were brighter
and larger than ours in appearance, and seemed to drop
like pendent lamps of glittering crystal from the deep
blue dome above ; while the flooded light of moon and
stars upon the bays and coves of the surrounding har
bour, made them shine like polished mirrors. The
change of heat and cold from day to night was some
times sudden ; and, doubtless, the sudden changes in
the atmosphere have their effects upon the complexion
and constitution of the weaker sex ; for, though bloom
ing earlier, yet they fade sooner than under our cooler
and more equal sky.
Society in Sydney is in the highest ranks nearly as
refined and accomplished as in England. A border line
is observed between the descendants of convicts and the
families of free-settlers, as far as practicable ; though
in trade and merchandise, where wealth is possessed,
society is, of course, as open and free in one case as in
the other ; and where special merit has appeared in any
one of the proscribed class, the Governor, or some
other high official, has led the way in public recognition.
I attended the Governor's levee, on the departure from
New South Wales of Sir William Denison; and the
dress, order, etiquette, and show, were almost equal to
the Queen's own " drawing room." The mihtary and
naval commanders, government officers, bishops, pro
fessors of the University, clergy, and ministers of
different denominations, attended in their respective
costumes and dresses, and presented a brilliant scene ;

NOTES ON SYDNEY. 157
while the soldiers, volunteers, and lines of carriages on
the government domain, and the regatta boats on the
harbour around, were stately and imposing. But
there is a lower class of character and life in Sydney as
well as a higher. There are " slums " and dens of
infamy and crime, where the dregs of human corruption
seethe, ferment, and break out in terrible violence. There
are more than five hundred public-houses in Sydney and
its immediate neighbourhood, and some of them are as
dark and cellar-like as any that can be found in our
own "Wapping," or that could have been found
in St. Giles', while others are as gay and garish as
our own street-corner gin-palaces. Drunkenness and
gambling are of gigantic strength in Sydney, and
destroy their victims with fearful rapidity. The " great
social evil," too, is apparent in the streets, both day and
night ; and that though woman's household service
there has large remuneration. Thirty, and thirty-five,
pounds a-year is a common wage for servant-maids;
and then there are holidays required, and various con
ditions imposed, which are provokingly embarrassing to
mistresses of households. Indeed, throughout colonial
society there is a freedom of speech and manner sur
passing what exists in the old country. Labourers and
servants of all classes speak and act with greater inde
pendence ; boys in the streets shout their ridicule upon
" new chums," as newly-arrived persons are called ; and
little children, though not so precocious and assuming
as in the " United States," nevertheless, are ready to
assert their "rights." Money is more plentiful; and
though expenses may be greater, so as to reduce
materially real profit, yet the handling of heaps of gold
and silver gives conscious importance. p

158 NOTES ON SYDNEY.
It is not, however, by the cesspools alone, that the
character of a city is to be judged, or by its servants, and
boys and girls, though these are features not to be over
looked or left out of the account. There are dregs of
society everywhere, and always will be while human
nature remains fallen and depraved ; and in hot, exhaust
ing climates, these may be looked for. The sun suckles
serpents and vipers while it colours flowers and ripens
.fruit. But in general character, — in its bulk and
strength of middle- class, as well as in its higher an(j
lower ranks, — the society of Sydney is equal to the
society of our chief cities and seaports in England.
The main drawbacks to my own personal comfort in
Sydney, where I was so generously welcomed and
hospitably entertained, were, the oppressive heat which
for hours in mid-day unbraced the bands of the mind,
and prevented pedestrian exercise in the open air; and
the pungent bites of musquitoes, which in the evening,
whether in public, social, or private hfe, come buzzing
against your cheek with a peculiar whir, fixing their
blood-suckers in the flesh, and then, after drawing
their full potion, flying off with a flutter of triumph,
leaving a blotch behind, which, until ripened to a yellow
head, is far more irritating than a healing blister. At
night, too, unless securely veiled by musquito curtains,
these little insect fiends have great pleasure in torment
ing you, by darting their truculent proboscis. into your
flesh, and drawing your blood. And they have evidently
a high relish for the round fat part of the hand, from the
wrist bone to the little finger. If this part be exposed
from under the coverlid for five minutes, it will be sown
all over by them with bumps and blisters, not to be
forgotten till the next night, if so soon. They, too.

NOTES ON SYDNEY. 159
like the boys in the streets, have wanton pleasure in
vexing "new chums." These, however, are but small
drawbacks, comparatively speaking, to the general
excellence and advantages of Sydney, as a place for visit,
or residence. On the whole, it is a large, prosperous,
and charming city ; and, though on the other side of
the globe, and in the "ends of the earth," has been
described as being more English than England itself.
An opinion might be expressed on the character and
proceedings of the Legislative Chambers of Sydney ;
and a question asked. If self-government had not been
given prematurely to the colonies of Australia? In the
Lower House of the elected representatives of the
people, there are demagogues and talkers, who evidently
speak for out-door effect, and who say strange things at
times, as well as in a strange manner. On one night
of my attendance there, I heard an earnest discussion
on the proposed abolition of capital punishments for
the colony, and . which, with a gallery filled with
" old hands," brought out all the extravagancies ima
ginable in relation to such a subject ; yet with all the
clap-trap employed for popular hearing, there was
strength and principle enough in the House to resist
and overturn the measure; and there was an evident
respect to England in her firm retention of this law of
" death for death," and " blood for blood:" And some
delicate and manly things were well said, and generally
acquiesced in, on the sacredness of woman's purity to be
preserved from ruffian violation by dread of punish
ment, which were truly creditable to the assembly. It
is still an experiment to be tested by time whether
universal suffrage, as practically given, is not pre
mature ; but with all the :spouting by political adven-
p 2

160

NEW SOUTH WALES.

turers on colonial independence and self-sufficiency,
loyalty to British government cannot be doubted ; and
some short time since, when a prominent member of the
House, of the class referred to, proposed colonial inde
pendence, a resolution of indignation was immediately
moved, seconded, and would have been carried, — if
the proposition had not been almost immediately with
drawn, — declaring that the proposal was contrary to the
views and feelings of the colony, that the paper on
which it was written should be torn in pieces by
a menial, and a sweeper of the House sent for to
remove it with its accompanying dust from the floor.
The members of the Upper Chamber are now, by nomi
nation from the ministry, in office for life ; and in their
position and stake in the country, as well as by their
intelligence and independence, are a seasonable check
upon the legislation of the colony. My host, the Hon.
Alexander Mf Arthur, is a member of the Upper House ;
and the Hon. George Allen has long been such, and is
chairman of its committees.
The Colony, of which Sydney is the capital, is large
and prosperous. It was as large as England, France,
and Germany ; but recently it has had as much as ten
times the area of Great Britain separated from it for the
new colony of Queensland, which, if supplied with
adequate and cheap labour, may become what it has
been proclaimed, a future cotton-field for England. In
some parts, New South Wales is lovely and picturesque,
deserving the name, given to it by Captain Cook, from
its resemblance, in his view, to our ancient home prin
cipality. On the sea-side it is garrisoned by high
towering rocks, which rise from three to six thousand

NEW SOUTH WALES. 161
feet above the level of the water. Within, its arable
and pasture-land is extensive and rich. It produced in
gold, last year, £1,718,194. It has mines of various
metals, and of coals, which are rich in produce. It
has orange-groves, vineyards, and fruits, and flowers^
of every variety of climate. It has large exports of
hides, leather, wool, timber, oil, and other merchandise ;
and, by the construction of railways, it is opening ready
ways to different towns of the interior, not reachable by
rivers, and to which there had been but indifferent
means of access. It is superior to Victoria in the
length of navigable rivers ; but is still Australian in its
deficiencies in this respect, and calls for increased
attention to inland irrigation, and to the treasuring up
of the waters which abundantly fall upon it. New
South Wales supplies full employment to all who seek
it. Mechanics and artisans obtain twelve shillings and
fifteen shillings per day ; labourers, seven shillings and
nine shillings : destitute poor, there need be none,
except of the sick and blind ; and for these there are
suitable institutions provided by the public.
There is less fluctuation in New South Wales than in
Victoria, owing to its being an older and longer estab
lished colony; but, at times, circumstances occur to
disturb and depress its prosperity. The " squatting
interests," or large land-holding for sheep and cattle-
runs, are at present disturbed by ministerial measures,
which are sooner, or later, likely to pass. It is too
much to expect that miles upon miles of land shall be
permanently in the hands of one man, at a small annual
rental, when many are waiting to purchase his " hold "
in divided portions, at a price which will largely in
crease the government-revenue, and bring the soil into
p 3

162 NEW SOUTH WALES.
cultivation ; though in all such measures vested inter
ests ought not to be overlooked. Some of the
" squatters " have made enormous wealth. One, whom
I met in company at Sydney, had netted as his profits
in the last year, from a joint hold of land, £15,000;
and others have much larger holds than he and his
partners. The proposed " Land-Bill " has disturbed
the repose of some of these ; and in several instances
which I heard of, both in Victoria and New South
Wales, " squatters " were removing to Queensland,
where tempting offers of longer security are made
on fourteen years' leases of extensive sections of
land. But there is room enough yet in the oldest
colony for cattle and sheep-breeding on a large and
profitable scale ; and as such it will still be resorted to
by energetic and wealthy emigrants. Some of the
unexpecting sons of England's nobility are of this
class; and among them are not unfrequently found
graduates of English universities, who, in their solitary
homes by the forests and the plains, have the best and
newest books of British literature for indoor reading,
and who con their well-worn copies of Homer, Horace,
and Virgil, in the open woods and fields. There is
also a little uneasiness at present in the gold-regions,
through the prejudice of Anglo-Saxons against China
men, who, having come over for a season from their
own country to the colonies, herd together, and save as
much in their living as they can, that they may carry
away with them as large an amount of wealth as possible.
This is not the most favourable service for the colonies ;
and the habits of the Chinesemen without wives, or
families, are offensive to Britons, while the knowledge
of the prejudice of races in the United States

RELIGION. 163
strengthens the objection to have them in the same
neighbourhood. But it is unworthy of Anglo-Saxons
and of Englishmen, to disregard the laws of their own
government, as they have recently done, and to install
Judge Lynch for terrifying and expelling the mild and
inoffensive Chinese. Such questions as these may be
expected to disturb, at intervals, a rising colony, with
out interfering with its growing advancement and
prosperity. Religion in this colony, and in its capital, is rever
enced, as it is throughout Australia. Ecclesiastical
structures are numerous. Most Christian denomina
tions in the old country have their off-shoot churches
there, with their respective ministers. The Church of
England has its various ranks of clergy ; but the bishop
was sadly chagrined when I was in Sydney, to find by a
legal decision against him in the highest colonial court,
that he had not the power of an English diocesan over his
clergy, and could be excluded by an objecting clergyman
from a church in which it had been published the bishop
would hold a service for ordination. Nor is there a
disposition in the colony to increase the status, or
enlarge the power, of the dignitaries of the English
Church. It is not viewed, or intended, to be there
" the Establishment." There is even a growing effort
to abolish State-aid to religion, which, no doubt, will
succeed before long. The knowledge that Roman Ca
tholicism is greatly aided and sustained by Govern
ment grants, also, weighs with many Protestants.
Roman Catholicism exhibits large numbers in Australia
by emigrations and removals from Ireland. It is there
seen in mitred pomp and state at public assemblies and

164 METHODISM.
ceremonies, beyond what usually appears in our home-
country. At the leve"e for the Governor- General, which
I attended, the episcopal dignitaries of the Romish
Church came in stately carriages, having episcopal
armorial bearings upon them, and attended by livery-
servants. Protestants see this, and, knowing how much
Popery is there strengthened and supported by Govern
ment aid claimed by it on the census number of
adherents, they are willing to make the sacrifice of their
own Government grants, and thus leave the false system
to stand, or fall, by its own resources. This willingness
spreads rapidly through all the Australian colonies, and
has already expressed itself in several of them by a
majority of votes accordingly. Probably, in a few
years it will prevail in all Legislative Assemblies there,
both in the Upper and Lower Houses; and, as it has
already done in South Australia, will abolish Govern
ment aid to religion altogether. The Day-schools of
New South Wales are of three kinds, — Denominational,
National, and Private. Together, these number 739,
having in them 32,840 scholars. The Sunday-schools
of the colony number 313, with 16,590 scholars. The
total grant for ecclesiastical purposes made by the
Government in the year 1859 was £42,967. Of this,
the Church of England had £22,292 ; Roman Catholics,
£12,633; the Presbyterians, £4,698; and the Wes
leyans, £3,109. The total quantity of land granted,
leased, and sold, in the colony, to 15,715 occupants, is
27,663,365 acres. The exports for 1859 amounted to
£5,800,926, and the imports to £6,772,049.
Methodism holds a good and prominent position in
Sydney and in New South Wales; though in Govern-

METHODISM. 165
ment returns it does not appear to such advantage as
churches which number both moral and immoral, un
claimed by others. It was commenced at Sydney, in
1812, by Mr. Thomas Bowden, the worthy father of
Mrs. Allen, of Toxteth Park, who in that year formed a
Methodist class in the city. The first Wesleyan mis
sionary sent to New South Wales was the Rev. Samuel
Leigh, who arrived at Sydney in August, 1814. The
first Wesleyan chapel was the one in Princess Street ;
built and given to the Connexion by Mr. James Scott ;
and which still remains in use, with a minister's resi
dence adjoining. This chapel was opened by the Rev.
Walter Lawry, in 1819, our second missionary to New
South Wales, and the brave pioneer of Methodist
labourers in the islands of the South Seas. Now, in
Sydney and its suburbs, we have some eighteen chapels
and preaching-places, which are mostly well attended,
and some of them are of excellent architecture. In the
colony, Methodism has 35 circuits and stations, 276
chapels and preaching-places, 42 ministers, 178 local or
lay-preachers, 256 class-leaders, 7,456 Sunday-scholars,
taught by 877 teachers, 23,751 attendants on its ministry,
3,820 fully accredited church-members ; and, besides
supporting these agencies and institutions, it supplies
more than £3,000 a year for foreign Missionary work
among the natives in New Zealand, and in the islands
of the Pacific.
As already stated, our Annual Conference of Wesleyan
ministers, in Australia, was held in Sydney. It opened,
as I have said, on the 17th of January, and continued
seventeen days. It was held in the York Street Chapel ;
and was attended by most of our ministers of New South
Wales, by ministers from the colonies of Victoria, South

166 METHODISM;
Australia, and Tasmania, and by missionaries from New
Zealand and the islands of the Pacific, — some sixty
ministers in all. It was a good Conference. It was
orderly and dignified in its proceedings, and considerate
and satisfactory in its measures. The ministers on the
floor of the chapel were, in large proportion, young,. as
we regard ministers in Methodism; but they were intel
ligent, gentlemanly, and earnestly attentive to business.
-In front of them, and also on the platform, were older
ministers, who had been the pioneer-labourers in Aus
tralia, and who had their position and cares by years
and experience, as they would have in the British
Conference. An elder among them was Nathaniel
Turner, our first missionary to New Zealand, who there,
as also in the Pacific Islands, hazarded his hfe for the
name of the Lord Jesus Christ. We had, also, on the
platform the -Ex-presidents, Manton, Butters, Draper,
and Eggleston : all noticeable and impressible men in
their persons and countenances, as well as by their
missionary labours ih earlierand harder times. The Rev.
Stephen Rabone, formerly a successful missionary in the
South Sea Islands,- was the appointed president; the Rev.
Thomas Buddie, from New Zealand, was elected secre
tary; :and scattered up and down in the Conference
were missionaries and ministers of familiar name, such
as -Watkins, the appointed, president for next year's
assembly at Adelaide; Buller, from New Zealand;
Watsford and Adams, from the islands ; — the latter,
brother to Professor Adams, of Cambridge, who dis
covered the planet Neptune ; — with Ironside, Bickford,
Ward, Chapman, Hurst, Harris, Waugh, Binks, Hessel,
Waterhouse, Oram, Rigg, Cope, and others, known
ahd loved by many in our part of the world. Though

METHODISM. 167
few attendants, compared with the. four or five hundred
ministers at an English Conference, it was, nevertheless,
an affecting and impressive scene. It was only seven
years ago that the Rev. Robert Young, my honoured
predecessor, the first deputation to Australia, and the
Rev. William B. Boyce, our active and. devoted general-
superintendent, and first president there, formed the
Affiliated Conference of Australia, and established Meth
odism there for independent government and support ;
and now the ministers who could leave their, circuits to
attend a Conference were, on the platform and scattered
over the lower part of a large chapel, a goodly company.
They all received me with the heartiest affection, and
gave me as cordial a greeting as could possibly be given
to a, brother by a body of ministers.' They evinced
strong emotion at the mention of the fathers of the
British Conference and of the love of all their brethren
to them. They received the official Address from the
British Conference, dehvered to them, with marked
courtesy and respect; and they heard an accompany
ing extempore address with attention and signs of
fraternal gladness. Throughout the. entire proceed
ings they showed the truest veneration and love both
for the parent Conference and the Methodists of
England. We discussed together, freely, and at con
siderable length, vital and delicate questions on the
relative position and powers of the parent and the
affiliated Conference; and in all not an ungenerous
sentiment, or ungentlemanly word, was spoken. We
argued fully the pressure of the large Mission-work
upon the colonies, and which amidst financial difficulties
bore heavily upon their home-funds and personal
comforts, when as fine a flame of missionary zeal burst

168

METHODISM.

forth as ever kindled in a missionary meeting at
home. The Reports brought by the chairrnen of the dis
tricts were very encouraging, and showed that in the
southern region of the world Methodism is a mighty
power, which is steadily and rapidly progressing.
Our intelligent and faithful missionaries from New-
Zealand told us of the triumphs of the Gospel in their
respective fields of labour among a population of 80,000
colonists and settlers, and 55,000 native New-Zea-
landers. They made known to us that we had 63
chapels and preaching-places in the two Districts of
Auckland and Wellington, for English worshippers,
with 4,787 attendants at public worship, 737 church
members, and 1,375 Sunday-school scholars ; while in
the native department we have 140 chapels and
preaching- places, 154 native local-preachers, 110 native
class-leaders, 3,791 scholars, 1 80 native Sunday-school
teachers, 6,247 native attendants at public worship, and
1,546 native church members. They spake with sad
ness of the war then raging in New-Zealand ; describing
it as being far from the rude, brutal rebellion which
some supposed ; and said that by misrepresentations of
the designs of the British Government upon their
lands, a sort of William Tell feehng of patriotism had
been roused among them that would not be easily
allayed. They told us how Christian natives who had
been misled into the conflict, took with them native
preachers, and held daily worship in their respective
tribes ; but rejoiced to assure us, that most Methodist
converts, and nearly all our various agents among the
natives, had been loyal to the government and throne
of Britain. In the interval of Conference-sittings, the

METHODISM. 169
Rev. Thomas Buddie gave me some free translations
of poetical compositions by native New-Zealanders, —
one of which I here subjoin. It was chanted by a
blind native at the gathering of t his tribe for a korero,
or native assembly for discussion on war with the
Government. " The wind blows keenly,
Its blast has sorely pierced me.
The stars are hidden from me ;
And I tremble like the birds
That flutter, when dark clouds
Ply across their path.
Who has created this night of sorrow
That now o'erspreads the land ?
Who is he, that conceived
This thought of war ?
Why does he not return
By the same plebeian path
That brought him here,
Nor dare to tread on sacred ground ?
From the councils of the great ones
Hast thou come
To break our long repose ?
Whither wouldst thou lead us ?
End now thy strife
And leave us pure,
That we may rest in peace.
"Who is the evil spirit
That prompts to war ?
Bid him keep at distance,
Lest maddened by his wiles
We fall into the snare of Eongo,
The man who came to fetch us.
Withdraw thy stretched-out hand,
Eeturn it to thy bosom undented —
Pollute it not."
The missionaries from the Friendly and Fiji Islands
gladdened our hearts with their reports. They stated
Q

170 METHODISM.
that in groups of islands where a few years ago there
was not a Christian, and where cannibalism prevailed
in its most fearful forms, there is scarcely a heathen
now to be found. Their returns for the two Districts
named, showed that in them Methodism has 629
chapels and preaching- pi aces, 262 native ministers and
catechists, nearly 2,000 native school teachers, 34,431
day and Sunday scholars, 18,55.4 native church mem
bers, and 81,410 native attendants on Methodist wor
ship. A letter was read from King George, our local
preacher at Tonga, asking counsel on a law of divorce
which he found it difficult to uphold ; and several most
interesting topics on Missions were brought before the
Conference. It was with gladness the tidings were
received at one of our sessions, that the Rev. James
Calvert, the friend and companion of the late Rev.
John Hunt in Fiji, and a band of ministerial associates
from England, had already embarked for the South-
Sea Islands, and might be expected there in March or
April. Medical assistance is much needed for the
missionaries sent to the Friendly and Fiji Islands, and
for their wives ; and if such could be supplied, it was
stated, missionary labour and life would be prolonged.
From what I learned of the Rev. Joseph Waterhouse,
the chairman of the Fiji District, his disinterested,
self-denying, and efficient services, mark him as a
worthy son of our first general-superintendent of those
Missions. The General Summary of Returns made at the
Australasian Conference of Wesleyan Methodism which
I attended at Sydney, for Australia, Tasmania, New-
Zealand, the Fiji and Friendly Islands, is as follows :—

METHODISM. 171
955 chapels, 628 other preaching-places, 175 ministers,
775 day schools, 41,565 day scholars, 1,292 Sunday-
schools, 41,565 day scholars, 33,964 church members,
and 181,468 attendants on Wesleyan worship. The
total amount expended in the year on the Missions in
New-Zealand and the Islands was, £16,535 ; of which
£5,005 were supplied from our Missionary Society in
England, and the remainder from the colonies and
from the Mission-stations themselves. Towards this the
Islands contributed £3000 in net proceeds from oil.
One reflection forces itself upon the mind on review
ing the statistics of our Missions in this part of the world,
and that is, — what triumphant encouragement we receive
for persevering effort, when we sum up the amount of
success vouchsafed by God in proportion to the means
which the church has hitherto employed for evangeliz
ing the heathen ! This encouragement is given under
every variety of human condition and circumstances,
where the church has been earnest and persevering
in missionary efforts. In Ceylon, for instance, —
which I visited on my way, and which may be
viewed as a field for experiment in our Eastern
Mission, and as the stepping-stone to India, — there
the religion of Jesus Christ has proved successful in the
midst of Buddhism, Hinduism, and devil-worship.
The history of our Missions there is briefly this. In
1814, Dr. Coke, the honoured founder of Methodist
Missions, and who for his apostolic labours must be
ranked among us next to Wesley, after having crossed
the Atlantic eighteen times to plant and organize
Missions in the West Indies and America, — and after
having endured much persecution for his evangelistic
Q 2

172

METHODISM.

efforts among the oppressed negroes, and for his open
denunciations of slavery, — sailed from England with a
band of six youthful missionaries for the East. But,
while crossing the Indian Ocean, he was suddenly
removed from the scenes and services of this mortal
life to his eternal reward. He was found dead, one
morning, on his cabin floor, having died when alone in
the night ; so that the missionaries who accompanied
him, and who had relied upon him as a father, after
having with tears committed his body to the deep, had
to land at Ceylon without a human guide and friend.
In their orphanhood, they betook themselves to their
work among the natives, distributing themselves by
lot over the island. Since then faithful men have been
sent in succession by our Missionary Society, and the
result is what I have recorded in an earlier chapter. A
net-work of organized churches is spread over the most
populous parts of Ceylon. These are under the effi
cient instruction and training of native teachers and
ministers; and though the influence of corrupt and
idolatrous systems is still powerful in the island, yet
the leaven of Christianity is in the midst of the native
mass, and in due time will, undoubtedly, leaven the whole
lump. Here are the first fruits of our Missions in
India and the East.
The encouragement vouchsafed to the Christian
Church has been still greater in Australia. Within
some thirty years Christian missions were commenced
there ; and amidst the most unfriendly circumstances
imaginable. They were commenced among convicts,
and among colonists and settlers, many of whom were
worse than the convicts committed to their custody.
Yet the preachers of the Gospel, sent from time to

METHODISM. 173
time, persevered in their evangelistic efforts, and
followed the population in its progress ; and the result
has been such as I have already hastily described.
The Australian colonies are Christian throughout ; and
though exhibiting, in some respects, revolting forms
of wickedness, yet the profession of Christianity is
universal, and flourishing churches are everywhere
found in them.
But the most encouraging example is seen in the
Islands of the Pacific. There, within little more than
thirty years, the principal groups of isles were peopled
by barbarous savages and ferocious cannibals ; and now,
almost universally, their inhabitants are professing
Christians. There, where the Church has shown itself
to be earnest in the supply of missionaries, converts
have increased and multiplied, until, in the island
groups I have named, heathenism has no more place.
There cannibalism is so loathed and abhorred, that it
is not allowed to be mentioned among the people. There
are hundreds of chapels, and hundreds of school-
houses, of native workmanship, in which many thou
sands assemble from week to week, and day to day.
There the Sabbath is kept holy to the Lord. There
marriage is established, and polygamy abolished.
There an infantine literature is growing rapidly;
and there thousands a year are provided by the native
churches for the spread of the Gospel into regions
beyond. Could any proofs be more demonstrative,
that if the Christian churches of England will send
forth their messengers in adequate numbers, either
to the more refined millions of the East, to European
colonists and settlers, in distant parts, or to the bar
barous savages of the very darkest regions, success
q 3

174 METHODISM.
will be realized in proportion to the agency employed ?
Only let the churches of Christ send an adequate
number of missionaries to India, China, the multitude
of the isles, and to the interior of Africa, and
these heathen regions shall assuredly be evangelized ;
these realms of sin become the kingdom of our God,
and of His Christ !

CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Sydney — Eetnrn to Melbourne — House of Legislation —
Meetings with Priends and Ministers — Opening of new Church at
Collingwood — Passage to South Australia — Extreme Heat on Arrival —
Visit to Kapunda in a Mining Eegion — Sabbath Services — Welcome
at Willunga — Vineyards on the Hills — Plains and City of Adelaide —
Parewell Breakfast — Notes on South Australia — Western Australia —
General Views 'of the Island-Continent — The Aborigines.

Sat., March 2. — Pleasant passage down the harbour,
in which, gleaming, still and green, at not more than an
arm's depth from the surface, the ravenous shark might
be seen. On reaching the "heads," and passing into
the ocean, we found the weather rough, and the water
tossing. Before evening we steamed by the mouth of
" Botany Bay ; " within which, on the north side, we
could see the monument raised for M. le Receveur, the
French naturalist in Captain Cook's expedition ; and in
the boisterous state of the. wind and water we could
readily perceive how that first chosen harbour was an
insufficient shelter for ships, against the roll of the
ocean, and was likely to be abandoned for the deeper
and safer inlet of " Port Jackson." Soon we bore fur
ther out to sea, and, before it was dark, lost sight of
land. Sun., March 3. — Sea still rough ; and so many pas-

176 DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY.
sengers confined to their berths, or prostrate on deck,
that we could not hold religious services on board.
Mon., March 4. — Sea smoother. By noon, saw Wil
son's Promontory, with its white lighthouse on a rocky
height. We passed between it and the picturesque,
stony, off-lying islands. Towards evening it again
became rough and stormy ; but we rode finely into the
harbour of Port Phillip, by eleven at night.
Tues., March 5. — By six in the morning we were at
Sandridge pier, where the Rev. D. J. Draper met us,
and from thence conveyed us to his house at St. Kilda,
as our home during our stay at Melbourne. Went to
the Parliament Houses, to gain a little better under
standing of the character and proceedings of legislative
assemblies for Victoria. The Upper Chamber is a
superb and sumptuous room, as highly decorated, and
almost as richly picked out in gold upon its mouldings
and ornaments, as any state-room in Paris; and the
Council seemed composed of orderly and gentlemanly
members. The Lower Chamber is a substantial and
stately room ; but not so elaborate in its finish as the
Upper. It was crowded at this time to hear explana
tions from a sharebroker, who had retired from the
ministry through judgment against him, on a legal
trial, for his part in certain business transactions. He
explained at length, but feeling was strong against him,
and it was afterwards spoken out by members in the
opposition. The general aspect of this assembly was
inferior to our House of Commons; but it was superior
to that of the Congress at Washington, and fully equal
to the Lower House in Canada. The style of speaking
which I heard was orderly and creditable.
Wed., March 6. — Went over the Methodist Book-

MEETINGS WITH FRIENDS AND MINISTERS. 177
Room, and the extensive premises adjoining. Drove
round the Wesleyans' Emigrant Home, which, at the
rush to Victoria, was a welcome asylum to many;
and visited the Free Library of Melbourne. This
library is on an extensive scale, and is in a building of
good style. It is open gratuitously to all classes, and
for both sexes ; and while much frequented in the even
ings by the working-classes, as well as by the higher
classes in the day-time, it has never yet been seriously
abused. The people view it as their own, and are
voluntarily and unanimously its guardians. Already
this Ubrary possesses an extensive collection of historic
works, and its books of all classes are well arranged.
Thurs., March 7. — Reception-meeting given to me
in Lonsdale church. Previously, there was a social
tea-meeting in the large rooms on the premises, which
were thronged in all parts ; while the yards and grounds
were covered over with gigs, carts, and waggons, be
longing to friends who had come from a distance. At
the reception-meeting in the large church, the Rev.
D. J. Draper occupied the chair. An Address was pre
sented to me, supported by speeches from our own and
other ministers, by the Hon. A. Fraser, and by J. T.
Sumner, Esq., J. P., son of the late Rev. John Sumner,
in the home Connexion, and a leading merchant of the
city. I spoke, in reply, on the state of religion and
Methodism in England, and on what they, whom I
represented, desired the Wesleyans of Australia to be.
Frid., March 8. — Met the Methodist ministers of
Melbourne, and their wives, at Lonsdale Street parson
age, and spent with them some very pleasant hours.
Several of them I had known in the old country ; and
the Rev. James S. Waugh, our host, I'had been agree-

178 OPENING OT NEW CHURCH AT COLLINGWOOD.
ably associated with on visits to Ireland. He is editor
of the " Wesleyan Chronicle " at Melbourne ; and, as a
remembrancer of our meeting in Australia, gave me a
precious relic of early Methodism, in the Hebrew Bible,
daily used by the Rev. Thomas Walsh, whose extra
ordinary proficiency in the original language of the Old
Testament has been recorded by Wesley ; where he
states, that this early Methodist minister knew every
Hebrew root by heart, and could tell how often any
given Hebrew word occurred in the Old Testament, and
in what place.
Sat., March 9. — In the morning occupied with pre
parations for departure; and in the afternoon visited
Mr. Webb, sen., of Brighton, in whose spacious gar
dens we plucked grapes, figs, mulberries, almonds, and
various fruits in abundance. The scene from the sea
shore, in front of his house, was exceedingly pleasing ;
and in its long, flat sea-beach, with fishermen, and here
and there a lounger from the city, would have suited
well the pencil of Collins.
Sun., March 10. — Opened a large new gothic Method
ist church at Colling wood, by preaching in it, morning and
evening. The church, passages, yards, and street adjoin
ing, were thronged ; and proofs of God's healing mercy to
sinners were given. The heat of the day was great, and
my clothes hung close and heavy upon me through
profuse perspiration. This being my last day in Mel
bourne, I felt stimulated in preaching, by the considera
tion that my ministry in that city was about to close
for ever ; and that, in all probability, I should never
again, on earth, see the ministers and people who
had welcomed me so ardently. Affecting home-remi
niscences, by the sight of familiar faces, strengthened

PASSAGE TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 179
this feeling ; so that, as ofttimes before, I lay awake
through the night from intensity of excitement and
emotion. Mon., March 11. — Left Melbourne at nine in the
morning, by the " Aldinga," for Adelaide. Ministers
and friends accompanied us to the pier; gave us
tokens of remembrance ; and, lingering till our de
parture, beckoned to us their affectionate farewells.
We had a good vessel, and made our way quickly from
Hobson's Bay. As we passed into the open sea, we
met a large emigrant ship from England, with five
hundred persons, or more, on board. They crowded
over all parts of the deck and rigging, eager to catch
the first sight of their new home. It was an impressive
sight, especially with the consideration of how various
and anxious were the thoughts of these emigrants, who
had braved the mighty deep, and were now about to
set their feet on a strange land.
Tues., March 12. — Fine day at sea. Coast line on
the right, low and flat. In the evening passed Kanga
roo-Island, with its lighthouse, and with bush-fires
burning upon it.
Wed., March 13. — Rose at six, and found that we
had advanced far up St. Vincent's Gulf, and were fast
approaching Port-Adelaide. Arrived there soon after
seven, and felt the heat very oppressive. It required
some exertion to get my luggage safely landed; and
though some working men from England, who had
known me in Manchester, gave all the assistance
they could, yet, by the time I reached the railway-
station, I was nearly prostrate with fatigue in the con
suming heat. The thermometer was 107 in the shade,
and 154 in the sun. Friends from Adelaide, led by the

180 VISIT TO KAPUNDA.
Rev. William Butters, (formerly of Hibaldstow, in
Lincolnshire,) soon arrived by the train to welcome us,
and to accompany us on the seven miles' line to the
city. We passed over a flat country almost as parched
as Egypt, stopping at three or four stations, for small
towns and villages in our way, and reached Adelaide by
nine. We were driven through the city to Mr. Butters'
house, called the " parsonage ; " but I was so faint with
heat, that I was hardly able to breathe. We languished
through the day, scarcely speaking to our kind host, or
to the friends who called to welcome us to South
Australia. In the evening we drove out ; but there was
little air to feel even in an open phaeton. By bed
time, however, a breeze sprung up from the sea, and
there was a cooler night than any of us had expected.
Thurs., March 14. — Walked through Adelaide, and
viewed it from different points. In the afternoon, we
went by train to Kapunda, fifty-two miles, — passing
by Gawler-Town, — and I preached in the evening to a
large congregation in a good gothic chapel. Kapunda
is a town produced by settlers in a mining region, which
surrounds it, and is not unlike some of the smaller
towns in Cornwall. In my congregation I found several
Cornish and some Lincolnshire friends. A productive
copper mine is the chief attraction of this place, — the
land around not being very good.
Frid., March 15.— Rose early, and looked at Ka
punda and the mining district around. After breakfast
left by train to return to Adelaide, having with me the
Rev. W. Butters and Aid. Colton. Our train rushed
round some sharp turns, but went safely. The country
through which we passed was low and stony. Here
and there was seen the bed of a river, or a stream, but

SABBATH SERVICES. 181
dried up, and trees were growing in the dry channel.
" Water-holes " appeared at intervals, but they seemed
to have little water in them. It was thus with Gawler
River, which we crossed midway on our return. Bush-
fires were raging both on the mountains on our left,
and on the fields towards the coast on our right. The
land over which we passed seemed scorched to hard
sterility; yet some of it, we were told, was so fertile,
that sixteen years in succession it had borne corn, and
that without being replenished in vigour by manure of
any kind. On our way we saw flour-mills at Gawler
town and other places, showing that we were in a
grain-producing region.
Sat., March 16. — Engaged with preparations for the
Sabbath, and in writing letters for England.
Sun., March 17. — Preached in Pierie Street chapel
in the morning to a large and attentive congregation, —
yard and grounds of the neighbourhood being covered
with the vehicles of persons from the country. In the
evening preached in a handsome and crowded spacious
new gothic chapel at North Adelaide, with turrets in
front, open roof within, and with flying-buttresses at
the side. Slept at the Rev. Jabez Waterhouse's, who
is our resident minister at North Adelaide, and in all
respects worthy of the name he bears.
Mon., March 18. — Wrote letters in the morning,
and in the evening attended an enthusiastic reception-
meeting in the chapel at North Adelaide, — Rev. W.
Butters in the chair. This meeting was preceded by a
social tea, where there were several I had known
in England ; as there were, also, at fehe Sunday ser
vices. Tues., March 19. — Went to Mr. Padman's villa,
R

182 WELCOME AT WILLUNGA.
situate in a picturesque suburb two miles from the
city, and at the foot of a long range of mountains,
where we finished our letters for the next mail; and
then enjoyed the pleasant garden and companionship
of our friends. Mr. Padman is the son of the late
Rev. Thomas Padman, in the ministry at home ; and is
a prosperous merchant of the city of Adelaide. At
night we saw bush-fires raging on both sides.
Wed., March 20. — Went from Adelaide to Willunga,
(which is thirty miles from the capital, in the opposite
direction to Kapunda,) accompanied by the Rev.
Messrs. Butters and Waterhouse, and their wives. We
had a pleasant drive near the sea-coast ; and saw large
tracts of good land in our way, and hills well moulded.
We passed by several of our country chapels, which were
neat gothicised buildings in brick. Abundance of trees
were seen in the valley on our left as we approached
Willunga, and on a range of hills running out at our
right into the sea. Within a mile of the place of our
destination, some forty friends on horseback met us,
and then turning round preceded us on the road.
Opposite our large gothic chapel at Willunga, a high
triumphal arch, richly decorated, with evergreens and
flags, and with the word " Welcome " upon it, spanned
the road. On reaching it the horsemen drew up and
joined the crowd in a shout of the old English
" Hurrah ! " which made the plains and the hills
behind echo and re-echo. After responding to this
unexpected salutation, we drove on to Rev. Robert C.
Flockart's, formerly known to me as a hearer at Spital-
fields Chapel, London, and who is an energetic, suc
cessful minister here. I repaired to the chapel, re
plied to the Address there presented to me; and

VINEYARDS ON THE HILLS. 183
after a social tea-meeting, which filled the building,
preached to the multitude. Here, also, as in other
places, were^ many hearers whom I had known in
England. Thurs., March 21. — At half-past nine, left Willunga,
accompanied by our friends. On the triumphal arch,
the word " Farewell " was inscribed in large letters.
At the end of thirteen miles, in returning, we
rested our horses at a way-side hotel, where some
" snapper fish " was served up to us : this fish is one
of good taste and flavour. We reached Adelaide in
the afternoon, having lingered somewhat on the road,
to view the surrounding country. In the evening,
we went up to North Adelaide, and spent the night
at Mr. Kain's, a wine-merchant from Guernsey.
This gentleman had married the daughter of the
Rev. T. W. Smith, minister with us at home. Here
we met several intelligent friends ; one of them a rela
tive of the Hardys, a well-known respectable Wesleyan
family, of Barrow, in North Lincolnshire. How strange
it seemed to find, on the opposite side of the globe,
wherever we went, so many whose faces and names were
familiar to us !
Frid., March 22.— Went to the Hon. G. M. Water-
house's, at Irecombe, to spend the day with the son of
our first general superintendent in this part of the
world. He is an intelligent and influential gentleman,
who has, perhaps, as much power in the colony as any
one that can be named, and until recently was chief
secretary. He lives twelve miles from Adelaide, on a
part of the mountain range, behind the city. To ascend
with less difficulty, and to see the country, we went six
teen miles round, upon roads which had been cut by
r 2

184 PLAINS AND CITY OF ADELAIDE.
hard labour through the rocks and at the sides of the
hills. On our way, before we left the plains, we saw
some excellent land. It was well cultivated ; and at
intervals there were deep water-holes in dried beds and
channels, in which water i3 stored for dry seasons, and
to which thirsty cattle rush, sometimes to drowning
and death. At Irecombe, Mr. Waterhouse has on his
estate, professedly of retirement, vines and other fruit
trees, which yield him a large income. We walked
with him round his pleasant vineyard, and into his
orchards, seeing, as we passed along, birds of gay
plumage feeding rapaciously upon the fruit. We
heard, too, the sweet note of the magpie, which here,
as in Tasmania, is musical. Most of the day was
spent in conversation on the colony of South Aus
tralia ; our host being familiar with all its concerns
and interests.
Sat., March 23. — Left Irecombe, and returned to
Adelaide, by a more precipitous, but more direct road.
On descending the hills, we had before us a view of the
vast plains of Adelaide, — which I can liken to nothing
seen elsewhere. On our left were large, well-rounded
hills, covered with blue and purple green vegetation.
Before us, and far away to our right, extended a vast
level plain, looking at this torrid time of the year
like the dried soil of a desert : yet it is a locality of
extreme fruitfulness, and produces some of the best
grain of the world, as the awards of tbe National
Exhibition in 1851 show. The city of Adelaide was in
the middle of this plain, but slightly on our left. Then
there was the bed of the river Torrens, nearly empty,
but winding in its deep channel from the city onwards.
Then there were the two curving sheets of glassy water,

FAREWELL BREAKFAST. 185
— St. Vincent's and Spencer's Gulfs, — stretching their
lake-like forms from the land to the sea ; and beyond all,
skirting the entire panorama, was the great Southern
Ocean, bounded by the blue horizon ; while in our im
mediate foreground were richly coloured hills, broken
by deep rugged cuttings, down which we were driving.
On our descent, I sketched this scene, being one of
peculiar form and feature. The afternoon and evening
were pleasantly spent with friends at Mr. Colton's,
where we slept.
Sun., March 24, — Preached in the morning again at
North Adelaide, and in the evening again at Pierie
Street. In the evening his Excellency the Governor,
Sir Richard Graves M'Donell, attended, with several
of his Executive and Legislative Council ; but it was
difficult to find room for them. It was a day of deep,
concentrated emotion, which, combined with the intense
heat of the season, seemed to drain the energies of body
and soul.
Mon., March 25. — Attended a Farewell Breakfast
given to us in " White's Room," as the large
public hall of the city is called ; and met there
some four hundred, and fifty persons, who paid
five shillings each for tickets of admission. The
Treasurer of the colony, (formerly a worshipper at
City Road, London,) the Hon. G. M. Waterhouse,
Mr. Foster, of the " South Australian Register," and
several members of both Houses of Legislation, were
among the company; and there were in it some
who had been friends of my youth, in Lincolnshire
and elsewhere. A Farewell Address was presented
to me, and I spoke in reply on Christianity and
Methodism, and what Australia might be and do, if
r 3

186 BOTANICAL GARDENS.
faithful to Christ. Afterwards we went to the Botanical
Gardens, — which might be called Zoological, as well, —
and observed, with unspeakable interest, the novel forms
of Australian and Tasmanian mammalia and birds.
The kangaroo in all its varieties [Macropus giganteus,
M. nemoralis, M. fruticus, &c.) wa3 here ; and I had
proof, in their wonderful leaps, of the powerful
spring there is in their hind-legs and tails. The mar
supial animals, as is well known, are abundant in this
far southern world. Among them are some very
destructive species, which we saw in these gardens, —
such as the pouched wolf, (Thylacinus cynocephalus,)
which the settlers call the " zebra wolf," sometimes the
"tiger," and at other times the "hyaena." It is a
very powerful animal, of the size of a large dog,
with short, . stumpy legs ; its colour is a brownish
yellow, with black bands transversely along the back.
This creature is only found in Tasmania, and destroys
sheep, kangaroos of the smaller species, and, in fact,
almost any living creature which comes within its reach.
It is becoming scarce. A more revolting creature is the
dasyurus ur sinus — also a carnivorous marsupial. Colo
nists, in Tasmania, where only it exists, at first found
it very abundant, and called it the " devil," from the
havoc it made among their sheep and poultry. This
animal is not larger than a bull-terrier, but it has most
powerful jaws. It is covered with shaggy black hair,
with white bands, or patches, on the chest and shoul
ders. The wombat (Phascolomys fossor) is another
Tasmanian marsupial, and is often called the " badger "
by settlers. It was the most comfortable-looking
creature we saw, being so exceedingly fat and plump.
Its rabbit-like head, also, rendered it a good-humoured

NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 187
lookiug animal j aud wo wore told it is sometimes kept
tamo. Tho flesh is also said to be good eatiug. It
burrows in tlie ground, lives on roots and plants,
only appears at night, and is found at times to be a
yawl long. The birds, in this interesting collection,
wore rich in variety, and some of them splendid in
plumage. The beautiful little " ground " and " grass "
p&rroquets were hero seen in full perfection.
Tues., March 56.— Left Adelaide for the Port of
Glenelg, where we were to take the steam-ship for King
George's Sound, — tho point of our embarknient for
England iu tho " Joddo." The distance from Adelaide
to Port Glenelg is six miles. We were driven there in
a eoach and four, and were accompanied by friends, in
their private carriages, who followed us in proces
sion Uie whole way down to the pier, where they
watched our departure in tlie " Balclutha," and beckoned
us "farewell," as long as we were in sight. AVe left
the port at two : the weather was favourable j and
soon we were out of sight from the shore, reflecting, as
we paced the deck, that our mission to Australia was
finished !

From tlie foregoing notes of Travel in South Aus
tralia, it will hare appeared that the colony has in it no
bold mountain-scenery to strike tlie visitor, but is
pleasantly diversified with hilly ridges, which enclose an
extensive alluvial plan of great fruitfulness. In scarcely
any part are there trees growing so thickly together as
to assume the forest character, though the ground is by

188 NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
no means devoid of timber. There are three principal
mountain ranges, bearing the names of Mount Lofty,
Mount Barker, and Mount Wakefield. These are all
well wooded, and the gently undulating grounds and
pleasant valleys which intervene between them and the
level plain have trees upon them. Nor, with the
exception of the lower course of the Murray, is there in
the colony any inland water deserving the name of lake
or river; though, as in the other Australian colonies, there
is by rain a fall of fresh water upon it almost equal to the
fall in England. The great Lake Torrens, of horse-shoe
form, and which makes so large a figure upon the map,
is merely a tract of soft, muddy ground ; and the river
Torrens, shown in some earlier prints of Adelaide as
bearing on its bosom ships of war, is not unfrequently
so dry a channel that it may be crossed without wetting
the feet. Still the colony is prosperous and attractive.
It contains an area of 300,000 square miles ; exceeding
in its contents all Germany ; and, with its two large gulfs,
has a coast-line of nearly 1,500 miles. The climate is
exceedingly hot in summer, as noted on the day we
arrived ; but, then, the evenings, generally, are cool and
refreshing ; and the other parts of the year are described
as perpetual spring. The plains on our arrival were dry
and parched ; but on a slight shower of rain the verdure
began to bud, and almost in a day seemed to tinge the
soil with tender green : a sufficient indication of what
other seasons would produce in clothing for the land.
And that South Australia is a prosperous colony may be
seen from the statistical returns of its steady increase in
all departments of commerce and revenue. It has not
the discoveries of gold to attract eager multitudes from
distant parts, as in Victoria and New South Wales ; but

NOTES ON SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 189
other precious minerals crop through its surface, and
yield large returns. It has fifteen mines of copper, lead,
iron, and tin, now at work, which, during the last ton
years, have produced in exports upwards of three
millions sterling; and, besides these, largo sections of
ground, in different parts, have been leased to companies
and individuals by tho Government, and these leaseholds
are known to contain valuable deposits of tho various
metallic ores. Tho copper ore commonly yields twenty
per cent, of 'metal, and requires but little labour to
obtain it, or take it away. The famous " Burra Burra "
Mine, about ninety miles north of Adelaide, usually
yields twenty-five per cent. ; and the ore found there at
times has yielded as much as seventy ; so that its shares,
originally purchased at five pounds, are now worth one
hundred and fifty pounds. The iron ore, in some parts,
is so rich that it may be wrought at the forge as soon
as taken from tho earth. The deposit of soil by the
sea, in what are called tlie plains of Adelaide, is parti
cularly fitted for tho growth of corn. It has uo trees
upon it to be cleared away, and can be worked without
renewal, as already noted, for sixteen or eighteen years.
South Australia has now as many as seventy-three flour-
mills, and tlie number is continually increasing. The
land is well distributed, being sold chiefly in allotments
of eighty acres, at twenty shillings per acre. And it is
plain, hy tho yearly increase of cultivation of vines, that
this colony will eventually become a principal wine
growing colony. Several proprietors already get thou
sands of gallons a year, and dispose of them at six
shillings per gallon, nett. The grapes are of tlie very
finest quality, and grow luxuriantly. So that, all things
takeu into account, while it is not so pretentions and

190 ADELAIDE.
stirring a colony as Victoria, or even New South Wales,
yet South Australia is prosperous and attractive. It is,
like the other Australian colonies, subject to hot dust-
winds from the north, which drape both town and
country in a denser and darker livery than a London
fog; but these clouds of penetrating impalpable red
powder never continue long, being soon swept away by
the southern breeze. Bush-fires, too, such as we saw
burning on the hills, are common in summer. During
the very hot weather the dry grass and scrub ignite from
any accident, and flame away for miles, like the grass
on the American prairies. The scene at night is
threatening to a merely European eye ; but the settlers
learn to take little notice of it, unless it come danger
ously near to them. The population of the colony, by
the last census, is 127,000 ; the total imports for a year,
£1,639,591 ; and the total exports, £1,783,716.
Adelaide, the capital, is a large city, well laid out
with wide macadamized streets, that intersect each other
at right angles; and these are well relieved by open
squares, and by the surrounding domain of nearly half
a mile's breadth, for the recreation of the people, called
the " Park Lands." The metropolis consists of two
portions, named North and South Adelaide, which are
united by a massive iron bridge that spans the river
Torrens, and cost for its erection j£22,000. The shops,
stores, and Government buildings, are down in South
Adelaide ; and private residences mainly cover the
higher ground of North Adelaide. Many miles of
street have been laid out in the two portions of the
city. The inhabitants are more staid and settled
in their bearing than in the capitals of the sister

RELIGION. 191
colonies; and trade seems to be carried on in a
more safe and steady manner. In and about the city
there are good public buildings ; and near it there
are populous suburbs, clustered pleasingly together,
under such familiar names as Kensington, Norwood,
and Stepney. Adelaide, lying in the centre of a vast
plain, having a radius of several miles in each direc
tion, with park-like suburbs on every side, and richly
clothed hills at the back, is a well situated and pleasant
capital. Religion, both in it, and through the colony, is
wholly sustained by the voluntary efforts of the several
denominations. No Government money is here given
to any section of the Church ; but every community of
professing Christians is left to itself. The Episcopal
Church is feeble, comparatively. The bishop, in his
gabled residence at North Adelaide, is supported by a
beneficent endowment from Miss Coutts ; but most of the
clergy have to eke out their scanty livings by teaching,
or by cultivating vineyards. Roman Catholics, too,
though said to number seventeen thousand in the colony,
having no State aid, are feeble and low. Methodism is
strong and prosperous. By the colonial returns, it
numbers nearly twice as many attendants at its worship
as are found in connexion with any other Christian
body. It was the first religious community organized
and established in the colony. It was introduced by
two excellent men, Messrs. East and Boots, who had
worked together at Kingscote, on Kangaroo Island ; and
who, in remembrance of Wesleyan services at home,
had there worshipped God together in their carpenter's
shop, with as many as could be induced to join them.

192 RELIGION.
Immediately upon the formation of the settlement, and
before any house could be erected upon the surveyed
allotment of Adelaide, a class-meeting was held by Mr.
Abbott, in a rude hut on the bank of the river Torrens.
This was the first place of Methodist worship in the
city. The next was in the kitchen of the English
wooden house of Edward Stephens, Esq., son of the late
Rev. John Stephens, known and venerated in British
Methodism. In this kitchen Methodism, for Adelaide
and South Australia, was first organized in 1837. The
foundation-stone of a chapel in Hindley Street was
soon afterwards laid by Mrs. Edward Stephens, daughter
of the late Mr. Baron, of Hull. The appointment of
local-preachers followed, and, true to the missionary
character of Methodism, the services of one of them were
wholly given to the Aborigines. Before the end of
the year 1838, the Rev. William Longbottom, a Wes
leyan missionary, proceeding from Tasmania to Swan
River, was, with his family, wrecked on the coast of
South Australia, when he took the charge and oversight
of the church thus providentially prepared for him by
the previous and voluntary association of the Methodists
there. Since then Methodism has continued to advance;
and now, in the colony, there are 133 chapels and preach
ing-places, 15 ministers, 152 local-preachers, 202 class-
leaders, 5,652 Sunday-scholars, 2,841 church-members,
20,000 regular attendants at its public services; and
beyond its own support, it supplies £1,030 a year for
Missions to the heathen in regions beyond Australia.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 193
Wed., March 27. — The weather cool, and the sea
rough. Steamer rolled much; and a fine horse on
board, valued at three hundred pounds, died with fright.
The owner was with us, and bore his loss bravely. He
was an intelligent, well-informed, extensive land-holder
in Western Australia; and the information he gave
concerning that colony agreed with the previous com
munications received from other intelligent informants
who had long known it.
Western Australia is the poorest and least prosper
ous of all the Australian colonies, and seems to be
almost struggling for existence. Although it is full
thirty years since it was founded ; is eight times as
large as the United Kingdom ; and boasts a coast-line
of 4,000 miles; yet, through mismanagement, and a
series of disasters, it has progressed but little ; and its
resources are only slenderly known, compared with those
of the other Australian colonies. For want of sufficient
free labourers it was made a penal settlement in 1850 ;
and some whom I conversed with in Victoria are of
opinion that this was what seriously checked the immi
gration of a better class. Others, however, like my
experienced friend on board, who had lived there, con
tend that, if it had not shared the convict system, the
colony would not have been so far advanced as it is ;
and are urgent that a larger number of prisoners and
ticket-of-leave men should be sent from the parent-
country to Western Australia. From what I saw of the
working of the convict system at Albany on my way
out, and from what I heard from ministers and friends
who had resided in the colony, I should say, that the
latter opinion is correct. And, as far as I could learn,
s

194 WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
for the " banished ones " sent there, the situation and
circumstances of Western Australia are most appro
priate. There is no running away, except to starvation
and death ; and in the arrangements made for remune
ration and freedom, there is powerful motive for
industry and reformation. There are in the contents
of this colony strong inducements to emigrants. There
is, I am told, rich loam in " Herefordshire," — vaguely
known as " the country over the hills," — which, sooner
or later, must be thickly studded with farmsteads, and
which in itself would produce corn, not only enough
for the consumption of all in Western Australia, but
which would also yield a large surplus. Some express
a hope that the rumoured discovery of additional
metallic treasure will attract more enterprising persons
towards it, and make it less and less dependent upon
convict labour. At the end of 1859 there were eight
copper and four lead mines being worked in the colony.
The " Wheal Fortune " copper mine yields, on the ave
rage, twenty-eight per cent, of metal : and the "Gerald-
ine " lead mine eighty-four. Horses, which are bred in
great numbers, and cattle, with hard, durable timber,
are, at present, among its most valuable commodities.
The total exports of 1859 shew an increase of
£93,037, against £78,648 in 1858. From the Govern
ment returns for the end of 1859, it appears that there
was then in Western Australia a population of nearly
fifteen thousand ; the increase in five years not having
been more than four thousand. About four-fifths of
these are Protestants; but I am informed that the
Roman Catholics, from colonial land in their possession,
support high-class school establishments, to which
Protestants send their youth, perhaps, too confidently,

WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 195
for education. The Wesleyans, who in numbers rank
next to the Church of England, have two Enghsh
missionaries : they are stationed at Perth and York,
and itinerate in the surrounding country, preaching in
some eleven places of worship ; but from communica
tions received from them, it is plain they have been
little encouraged in their isolated fields of labour.
Thurs. and Frid., March 28 and 29. — Sea calmer,
and weather warmer.
Sat., March 30. — Saw land by three, p.m., and
anchored in King George's Sound at eight.
Sun., March 31. — The " Jeddo" arrived by half- past
seven in the morning. We went on board ; saw our cabin,
which had been reserved for us from Sydney ; and then
were rowed ashore, where we heard a good sermon in
the small Episcopal Church at Albany on the Resurrec
tion of Christ, — it being Easter Sunday. After the
service, we again saw many natives here with their skin-
dresses and spears. By half-past two we went on board
the " Jeddo," and about an hour afterwards set sail,
taking our last farewell of Australian land.

Our views on this vast Island Continent had greatly
enlarged since we touched at King George's Sound in
December, 1860, on our way out. We had measured
it by travel to and fro in lengths of 500, 600, and
1300 miles in our several stages. We had entered its
bays and harbours; had tossed up and down in its
straits and gulfs; and we had rushed along on its
railways, or jolted over its plank and " corduroy " roads
s 2

196

THE ISLAND-CONTINENT.

in the interior. And though we knew when we came
the length and breadth of the colony, as being 2400 by
1700 miles, with a coast-line engirdling it round of 8000
miles ; — though we had been told it was nearly equal
in superficial contents to all Europe ; that it would hold
all its nations ; and that if lifted up bodily to be put
down against the United Kingdom, it would make
a land-passage either to the East on the one hand, or
from Ireland to America on the other, — yet it was not
until we had travelled about and upon it, and had per
sonally measured it by successive hundreds of miles,
that we could appreciate its extent. How ancient, or
how modern, may have been its origin, we could not
learn, with all inquiries concerning its geological forma
tion and structure. The signs of volcanic agency pre
sent themselves in almost all parts; and on the east,
especially, the ever-toiling mason insect has built up
massive and far extending reefs of coral, that serve as
a vast breakwater against the surge and roll of the
Pacific Ocean. Its mountain-system is peculiar. In
stead of running lengthwise with the continent, as in
the countries of the old world, — where every range, how
ever tortuous, agrees in general with the length of the
country in which it lies, — the mountains of Australia
stretch transversely from north to south ; while the
Australian continent is longest from west to east.
Indeed, if viewed in relation to the scientific theories
based upon investigation of the earth's crust on the
northern side of the globe, this " great South Land " is
fall of anomalies and contradictions. And so it is with
its animal and vegetable productions. It has black
swans, white eagles, quadrupeds with birds' bills,
cherries growing with stones outside, and trees which

THE ISLAND-CONTINENT. 197
shed their bark instead of their leaves. What the
interior of Australia is cannot yet be told. Exploring
expeditions, with troops of horses and camels, have gone
forth to search their way across from south to north ;
but up to this time there is a vast blank of knowledge
around the inner regions. Whether there be an inland
stony desert, from whence the hot winds come charged
with their heated dust, or a vast central lake, which pro
duces violent inundations that overwhelm large tracts of
country, and swell the rivers with mighty torrents, is
not yet known. And hitherto almost each succeeding
explorer has contradicted, by personal observation, the
conjectures of his predecessor. Stuart's Diary, in his
recent expedition, would lead us to conclude that the
interior of Australia is, in rich grass land, mountain-
ranges, and metallic ores, fully equal to the outward
boundaries. For positive knowledge, however, of the
character and contents of the central interior we
must wait awhile. But the large extent, the great
importance, and the priceless value, of this island-
continent on the other side of the globe, to England,
and to the world, demand consideration and acknow
ledgment. Here is territory at the ends of the earth,
holding in its bosom mineral treasures the most pre
cious, overspread with lands rich and fruitful, and
extending through every variety of climate : territory
nearly as large as Europe, girdled round with a
noble coast-line, full of fine bays and safe harbours;
situated midway between America and Africa, and
at the extremity of Asia, with "the multitude of the
isles " scattered over its seas ; fast fiUing with an
energetic Anglo-Saxon race allied to Britain by birth,
political constitution, and commerce ; and who are there
s 3

198 THE ABORIGINES.
reproducing English homes, English farmsteads, and
— beyond any other British dependency — importing,
for the increased multitudes, English manufactures.
To Great Britain, such an ally is beyond all calculable
value and importance in its situation and worth. Nor
is it less important in its moral and religious relations.
It is a Christian land, in the midst of dark, idolatrous,
and heathen regions. It has already its Bible Societies
and Missionary institutions, and is sending forth its
agents to surrounding nations and tribes; though,
sixty years ago, it was itself but a desert and a wilder
ness, peopled by a few savages. It has in it the
inalienable love of British freedom and rights of con
science. It is the established foe of despotism and
persecution. And in the great battle of Armageddon,
which is as likely to be fought on the other side of the
globe where Satan has had his seat so long, as it is on
this side, it shall be, if faithful, and " valiant for the
truth," among the strongest and most honourable of
the agencies employed by Christ in the universal
coming of His kingdom.
One enigma presents itself to the reflecting mind in
relation to Australia, which a visitor and traveller there
like myself cannot escape the consideration of, — that is
the fate of the poor Aborigines. One sees remnants
of their different tribes in every colony, and one learns
everywhere that they are fast fading away both in
strength and numbers. They are the lowest and most
degraded of the human family; have persistently with
stood all attempts to civilize and Christianize them ;
and in another generation, probably, will have entirely
ceased to exist in the hitherto occupied portions of
Australia. Poor, wretched beings ! inferior in figure

THE ABORIGINES. 199
and feature to untutored Africans. Dark earth-brown
in colour ; with sloe-black savage eyes widely set
against their high cheek-bones and under protruding
eye-brows ; with distended nostrils, broad, pouting lips,
matted, long, black hair, shrunken frame, spindle-legs,
bedaubed and greased from head to foot, and without
decency and shame. Such were the natives I saw in
the different colonies, in their forlorn groups of men
and women, — with their sickly children and lean, hungry
dogs ; and though in climbing trees, hurling the boomer
ang, or throwing the spear, they exhibit in their
attitudes and movements vigour and grace which would
ally them with the great Papuan race, so widely
spread over the vast south-eastern hemisphere, and
show them to be the descendants of an enterprising
and a skilful people, — yet as soon as they resume
their ordinary forms and modes of life and countenance,
they exhibit a feeble, dejected, and dispirited look which
tells of wretchedness and destruction. It is reported
that in the north, where they have been less disturbed
by Europeans, the aborigines are a bold, athletic, and
valiant people. It may be so. I suppose from con
current testimonies on this question it is so. But I
can only write of what I saw ; and those which I
beheld are among the most feeble and abject of the
human family; and had upon their very frames and
looks the signs of dejection and death.
Laudable and praiseworthy efforts to rescue the dark
natives from their impending fate have been made in
all the colonies by the Government, as well as by volun
tary associations and benevolent individuals ; but with
almost universal failure. Whatever might be the dis
honourable conduct of early colonists, who, for safety,

200 THE ABORIGINES.
or amusement, hunted and shot down this "black
game " in the woods and forests, no ill-treatment of the
aborigines is allowed now, with impunity. On the
other hand, paternal tenderness and compassion towards
them has in recent times been carried almost to excess.
No expense, or labour, has been spared on their behalf;
yet they refuse continued association with the civilizing
race, and waste away in their own wretchedness. Number
less instances are quoted of education and employment
of the aborigines by European colonists ; but, almost in
every case, the native . child or servant, taught and
clothed, has gone back to the wild tribe to which he or
she belonged, and sunk back into barbarism. In some
few instances conversions to God have been known
among them ; and our Wesleyan Methodists, who, like
most other Christian communities in the land, organized
special Missions for them, have had, in more than one
case, religious teachers raised up among the natives;
but sooner or later the seed died in the ground, and
brought forth no fruit. A short time before I was at
Adelaide, the Legislative Council for South Australia
had, in concern for the wasting aborigines, appointed a
special committee to inquire into their state, and into
the best means to be employed for their rescue and
improvement. The Hon. G. M. Waterhouse was on
that committee, and reported to me its proceedings and
results, as well as presented to me official documents
concerning it. That committee examined the most
competent witnesses to be obtained, both Euro
peans and natives, and found that the rapid decrease
of the aborigines was attributable to infanticide, the
women, or " gins," being unwilling to bear the burden
of more than one or two children ; to certain rites per-

THE ABORIGINES. 201
formed upon young men of some tribes, impairing their
physical powers ; to the introduction among them, by
Europeans, of more aggravating sensual disease than
existed previously ; to excess in the use of intoxicating
liquors ; to promiscuous intercourse of the sexes among
the youth of the natives as well as with Europeans, by
which the births among the aborigines were seriously
reduced ; and to the great disproportion of males and
females in the several tribes. In addition to these
causes of diminution in numbers, it was also explicitly
elicited, that the adoption by the natives of semi-civilized
habits, such as sleeping in thin tattered blankets, instead
of thick and warm opossum rugs, was inducing
pulmonary disease,, which had become extensively
destructive and wasting to their lives. The evidence
supplied gave other fearful glimpses into their state
of ignorance and degradation. Cannibalism was more
than hinted at. There seemed to be no knowledge,
or idea, of a supreme Being among them, except
that of a dark spirit who came forth at night prowling
abroad to inflict disease and death. Deeds of treachery,
murder, and blood, were referred to, as well as sensual
rioting among old and young the most revolting. And
the testimonies borne by benevolent labourers for the
sinking race, on their own failures and disappointments,
were the most disheartening. The doom of this people
creates in us afflictive thoughts on the fearful con
sequences of sin to nations ; but the filling of the vast
island-continent with a better and prosperous race
silvers the edge of the black cloud which hangs over
the mind while we think of the Australian aborigines.
In God's counsels concerning nations and tribes we
must humbly and reverently acquiesce : " the Judge of
all the earth shall do right ! "

art Cjmlx

KETUEN HOME.

CHAPTER VIII.
Voyage baoV from Australia to Ooylou — Visits to other Buddhist Temples —
Interior Mid Voit revisited — Farowtxll to Ceylon — Voyage to Bombay —
Caves of Klephauta — Kamblu through Bombay — Tho Parsees — Voyage
from Bombay to Aden — Voyage up tho Bed Soa — Seeuo of tho
Israelites' I'assage — Arrival at Sum — At Cairo — Loss of Luggage —
Arrival at Alexandria — Luggage not found — Departure for the Holy-
Laud.

Mon., Aprii 1, to Frid., 12. — Voyage over the Indian
Ocean, from King George's Sound to Ceylon. At the
beginning the weather was rough, but our ship made
good speed. As we advanced, we had the advantage of
tlie trade-winds, and made twelve and thirteen knots
an hour. The weather became increasingly warmer as
we approached tlie tropics, and towards the end of our
voyage wo were within tlie " doldrums," or conteuding
trade-winds : so we had doldrum weather, showery and
squallish, with moist, " muggy" heat. The thermometer
ranged, during our voyage, from 70" to 00*. Sir John
D  and his lady, friends of our hosts at the
Glebe, Sydney, were ou board. Sir John had been
acting for the Chief-Justice in New South Wales, and
from some years' residence in the colony, as well as
from his associations with courts and officials, increased
my information concerning Australian Ufe and society.
T

206 RETURN TO CEYLON.
Captain B  , also, a retiring police magistrate, was
with us, and several " squatters ; " so that there was
no difficulty in obtaining any particulars desired in my
study of the colonies. Our fellow-passengers joined us
devoutly in the religious services of the Sabbath, and
were pleasant and intelligent companions. Captain
Soames was a good commander of the ship, and the
crew were orderly and well-behaved. We reached the
harbour of Point de Galle by six on Friday evening ; but
as no pilot came to us before sunset, we were not able
to enter ; so the ship beat about on the outside of the
reefs through the night.
Sat., April 13. — In the harbour by seven in the
morning. Breakfasted on board, but went on shore in
the forenoon, and drove up to Rev. John Scott's. The
captain reported to us, that his passage from Sydney to
Galle was the quickest ever made.
Sun., April 14. — Preached in the forenoon in the
Presbyterian Church, and in the evening in the Wes
leyan Chapel to large congregations; the majority of
our passengers in the " Jeddo " being present.
Mon., April 15. — Drove into the Fort; and in the
evening to Bonavista, where we visited the clergyman,
and went to Mrs. Gibson's native school, of which he
has the oversight. About thirty native girls are boarded
and educated here, and about thirty more attend daily.
After sketching the harbour from this point, returned to
the Fort, and held a prayer-meeting, at which I
addressed a goodly number of persons.
Tues., April 16. — Went to a celebrated Buddhist
temple on a hill in the neighbourhood of Galle. In the
house adjoining there were some half-dozen priests. I
talked at length with the chief-priest, an intelligent and

VISITS TO OTHER BUDDHIST TEMPLES. 207
learned man, who made earnest inquiries concerning
England and Australia. He led me through his
establishment, showed me his collection of pic
tures and books; and in the visitors' book, which
he kept, were the names of Bunsen, Pritchard, and
other celebrities. In his Study he had the Scrip
tures, and some Christian tracts, in Singhalese ; and
he would fain have had the use of our Singhalese
press at Colombo, for the printing of some work on
Buddhism which he had prepared. It was explained
to him how that could not be allowed with a Christian
missionary's press; and when asked why he and his
people, if they believed in their system of religion, did
not send missionaries to propagate it in England, he
shook his head, and said, the English were too firm and
resolute to afford any hope of success : they were
not like the people of the East. At a slight hint,
he put on his best saffron robes and sandals ; took
his large fan and white handkerchief in his hand;
and stood in his verandah to be sketched. He
was a venerable man, of good form and features ; but
the younger priests who stood around, and eagerly
looked on, were not so well favoured. They had a
dirty, monkish look, though ablutions and bodily clean
liness are strictly enjoined upon them by Buddhism.
The temple adjoining was a hexagon in form, and of
moderate size. It was covered with Italian tiles, and
had a verandah all round, with hanging lamps. On
opening the door, a large yellow figure of Buddha was
seen sitting within a glass-case, and having a table for
flower-offerings in front. There were several smaller
figures, also within the case; and all over the temple
walls, within, were painted yellow-robed figures of
t 2

208 INTERIOR AND FORT REVISITED.
Buddha. The priests seemed to set little store by the
flower-offerings, for they swept them from the table
most unceremoniously, to make space for the sketch
book. The court in which the temple stood was, in its
enclosure and objects, similar to that at Belligam,
described on a former page; and between it and the
dwelling of the priests was a canopied reading-stand,
whence the priest rehearsed the doctrines of his sect
from Buddhist books. The whole establishment was
surrounded by lofty cocoa-nut trees, and a profusion of
foliage. On returning to the Fort I went with Mr.
Scott into the civil courts, and was courteously invited
by Mr. G  to sit with him upon the bench, and
observe the trials. They were conducted through an
interpreter ; the hall was crowded with natives ; and the
legal practitioners were both natives and burghers.
Wed., April 17. — Went some miles up the Gandara
river, and saw some fine open scenery, with rice paddies
at the sides, and natives ploughing with oxen. Buffaloes
were enjoying themselves in the water, as before. The
river was of strong volume in several parts, and whirling
eddies appeared at its turns ; but our frail bark of native
manufacture, sheltered in the middle for us with palm-
leaves, was skilfully managed by the Singhalese boat
men, and we went smoothly and rapidly along. Some
pleasant villages lay over the fields, both on our right
and left ; and it was interesting to observe the natives
in going to or from market, on paths across the cheerful
green fields, in their bright and picturesque cos
tumes. We purchased oranges in our river voyage,
plucked for us from the trees, which were refresh
ing in the heat of the day. On our return, we
breakfasted on curries, kindly prepared for us by

FAREWELL TO CEYLON. 209
Christian natives in a bungalow, or rest-house, by the
water. Thurs., April 18. — Had conversations with native
ministers and catechists.
Frid., April 19. — Went down to the Fort, and found
that the "Nemesis," for Suez, had already one hundred
and fifty first-class passengers, with fifty children, from
India, on board, and was also expected at • this port to
take up passengers from China and Australia, so that she
would be fearfully overcrowded, and that down the hot
Red Sea passage. We complained of this, after large
payment to secure suitable accommodation. An offer
was made to us of much better provision, if we
would go round by Bombay in one of the Peninsular
and Oriental Company's steam-ships, just ready to
depart. For health and life, as it seemed to us, we
accepted the offer ; and at half-past two in the afternoon
took our farewell of beautiful Ceylon, and sailed for
Bombay in the " Singapore," with about sixty first-
class passengers. This steamer was smaller than the
one we had quitted, but we had a good cabin assigned
to us.
Sat., April 20. — Cape Comorin in view at our
right. Sea smooth. Very warm weather. Cabin
close. Sun., April 21. — We had service on deck, under a
double awning, but it was exceedingly hot. During
the day the Malabar coast was in sight.
Mon., April 22. — The sea was still smooth, and the
weather very hot and close. The coast on our right
kept in view, with several islands, and the picturesque
settlement of Goa, — the Portuguese possession of such
bad fame for the doings of the Inquisition.
t 3

210 ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY.
Tues., April 23. — Continuance of fine weather, and
the Indian coast, with mountains at a distance, more
distinctly in view.
Wed., April 24. — Entered Bombay harbour, by four
in the morning. Landed immediately after breakfast.
Went to the Clarendon Hotel, and had rooms allotted
to us ; then to the Peninsular and Oriental Com
pany's office to secure a good cabin in the steamer
next going out, being anxious concerning the passage
down the Red Sea. We drove through the city •
observed that the real Hindoo was larger and stronger
in frame than the Singhalese ; and that here the crowd
of inhabitants was greater than we had seen in Ceylon.
I looked into the houses and shops of the natives, went
into their markets, and, as far as allowed, approached
the courts, tanks, and interiors of Hindu temples.
I was not allowed in any case to cross the threshold of
these temples ; but I stood at the doorways, and saw
what there was within; and in some instances the
appearance of priests, the daubing upon the idols, and
the stalls of the white Brahmin cow, were offensive and
disgusting in the extreme. Nor was I allowed to
enter what might be called monastic establishments of
priests and devotees ; but, for two or three annas, I was
permitted to advance to the precincts, and observe the
lazy recluses stretched at full length upon their mats.
Some of the streets of Bombay are large and wide,
with shops and stores at the sides projecting in their
upper stories, and highly ornamented in wood-carving
and colours. In the dark recesses next the streets the
natives were seen at work in their several trades and
employments, almost naked, as they need to be in the
extreme heat of this climate. Parrots and birds of

BOMBAY AND SUBURBS. 211
gay-coloured plumage hang commonly at the shop-
windows. There are large outspreading suburbs on
the land side of the city, studded with luxuriant
gardens, mansions, and villas : a spacious park inter
venes between the city and the Fort, in which British
soldiers and Sepoys parade, and where the elite of the
inhabitants and residents drive in the afternoon in their
splendid equipages, while the military band plays exhi
larating tunes. We observed* that, after Europeans,
the Parsees were the chief persons in appearance. On
returning, we saw in a crowded street a thorough
English Jack Tar inflicting, with clenched fists, sum
mary justice upon some natives who had wronged him ;
and it was surprising to see how that in the midst of
thousands of stout, large men of India, although alone
and single-handed, he struck out right and left, as if
with his own pair of hands he could master all the
native inhabitants of the city. The Hindoos evidently
did not understand such John Bull pluck ; and fled by
hundreds on the approach of the English sailor, as if
they were children !
In the cool of the approaching evening we drove into
the outskirts of the city, and along the sea-shore, where
spacious mansions, with their tropical gardens, were
abundant, and where the more select of British residents
and wealthy Parsees were to be seen ; and in our drive
we went to a famous Hindu tank and temple, as also to
the Parsees' lofty tower, where they expose their naked
dead to be devoured by vultures and ravenous birds of
prey. The suburb in which our hotel was situated is
named Byculla, and has in it many large mansions,
surrounded by extensive gardens, tastefully laid out,
and rich in tropical flowers and fruits. In these

212 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA.
the Palmyra, Date, and Betelnut palms, towered in
lofty and graceful forms, as they did also in other
suburbs adjoining the city. The evening sky was pure
and brilliant ; but in the night we could hear the dismal
howls of numerous jackals.
Thurs., April 25. — Rose at half-past five in the
morning, and went to the Island of Elephanta, to see the
celebrated Caves. We were taken in a bunder-boat by
half-a-dozen Hindoo sailors, and a most patriarchal-
looking captain. Elephanta is about five miles from
the pier of Bombay, in an oblique direction over the
harbour ; and we had to be carried ashore by natives of
the island, because of the shallowness of the water. We
then ascended some one hundred and fifty steps, and
reached the abode of a pension-sergeant, who had charge
of the caves. He went forward with us, about half-way
up the mountain, to the front of the principal cave,
which was very impressive, and seemed to bring Egypt
back before our eyes. It is a huge excavation in the
solid mountain rock, — as is well known, — with moulded
pillars, and sculptured figures left in stately and bold
relief, so as to form a vast solemn temple underground.
It is grievous to observe that much of the gigantic
sculpture has been wantonly mutilated and broken.
The Portuguese have the discredit of this ascribed to
them, in their zeal against idolatry ; but whether truly
or not cannot be learned. And, certainly, a sense of
decency might induce mutilation in some parts, where
several of the figures have been made to represent the
sensual impurities of idolatry. We breakfasted in the
cave, and, after sketching the view and plan of it, went
to look at the smaller caves on the left side.
The great cave I found to be by measurement one

CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 213
hundred and thirty-three feet long, one hundred and
twenty-five feet wide, and seventeen feet high. The
roof was supported by twenty-eight pillars and sixteen
pilasters, disposed in four rows. Each column stands
upon a square pedestal, is fluted, and has a round,
richly-moulded capital ; but the shaft, instead of being
cylindrical, is gradually enlarged towards the middle.
Above the tops of the columns a sort of beam-ridge has
been left, running transversely, and is, also, well relieved
and ornamented. Along the sides of the huge temple
are cut out of the rock from forty to fifty colossal
figures ; some of which have helmets, and others crowns
upon their heads. Several of them have four and six
arms, holding sceptres, shields, and ensigns of religion
and peace. At the south end, facing the main entrance,
is an enormous bust, nineteen feet high, with three
faces, representing Siva in his triple character of
Brahma, Vishnu, and Rama, — the creator, the pre
server, and the destroyer. To the right and left of
these are sculptured figures illustrative of these powers ;
and which, for the sake of decency, have been partially
broken by axes and hammers. In the cave on the right,
and immediately out of the side on the left, are com
partments guarded by naked and helmeted figures, in
which are altars, with symbols for worship, offensive to
modest eyes. The whole design and workmanship
shows considerable skill and progress in art. The date
of the temple is shrouded in obscurity. Some absurdly
ascribe it to Alexander the Great, others to Semiramis ;
but it is, undoubtedly, of Hindoo origin ; and though
ancient, not so old, perhaps, as the imposing names
which some have connected with it would seem to
prove. It is not at present used as a temple; but

214 RAMBLE THROUGH BOMBAY.
solitary devotees make pilgrimages to it, and offer their
prayers and oblations within it. Tho smaller excava
tions, on the left side of the mountain, are of the same
eliaractev, but ave to be described as chambers rather
than temples ; though, from the remnants of altars, and
guardian figures upon the doorways, there can be no
doubt of their intended use.
We returned at noon to our bunder-boat,, and had to
be carried to it by the natives through the shoal water.
The wind was now strong, so wo had to tack about a
great deal, and pass Butcher-island, where a mutinous
Rajah is confined. On another island which wo passed
is a very beautiful white mosque. In the afternoon
went aud sketched, near the railway station, a modern
Hindu temple, where there is a college of priests, and
largo gardens. On returning to our hotel, by a retired
walk through the suburbs, we saw palm-trees tapped at
the top, and by incisions in tho stumps, for " toddy,"
or intoxicating liquor, which, when distilled, is called
" arrack." The daring and the agility of the natives in
climbing these lofty, slender trees, surpriso Europeans.
The musquitoes were tormentors here, but not so nume
rously as in some places where \vc had previously been ;
and during the day we had caught frequent sight of
lizards and serpents.
Frid., April 26. — Beforo breakfast visited and sketched
another Hindu temple. It was more ancient than tho
other, and was coloured white, with red lines in its
recesses. Several priests were attached to it, and on its
stairs, with outstretched hands, performed their morning
devotions. After breakfast, drove to tho Poninsular and
Oriental Company's office, aud found a good cabin
allotted to us in the " Orissa " steam-ship, which was

RAMBLE THROUGH BOMBAY. 215
to leave the next day for Suez. The remainder of
the day was spent in company with Mr. K  , the
proprietor of the " Bombay Times and Standard,"
whose friends I had known in Lambeth, and who, from
a return list of visitors, had discovered our presence in
the city. 1 le showed us the chief places and objects
of interest in Bombay and its extensive suburbs, and ex
plained to us much of East Indian life and society. The
Fort we found to be the principal place of merchandise,
having in its crowded, narrow streets, bazaars, stores,
and other warehouses. The town-hall, museum, and
library, are large and creditable institutions on one side
ofthe "Green," as a central open space is designated ;
and on the other sides are tlie Mint and Govern
ment offices. Huge bales of cotton strewed tlie piers
and quays, ready for shipment to England ; and I was
informed that about one hundred millions of pounds
of cotton were sent annually from that port to Great
Britain, aud about half as much to China. It was
interesting, on passing the shops, to see the natives
working in gold and silver, and at their beautiftil inlaid
articles. On leaving the Fort we crossed draw-bridges,
passed over the esplanade, where soldiers and citizens were
promenading, and entered again the main thoroughfare
of the city, observing, at the corner on our right, a good
dep&t of the British and Foreign Bible Society, with
adjoining printing-rooms. The streets were thronged
with natives, both in dress and undress ; and in different
parts we alighted to view Hindu temples and Maho
medan mosques, with their deluded devotees. Myriads
of pigeons feed around the tanks ; and suspended from
the branches of trees by their feet, with head down
wards, are numerous large bats, or " flying foxes," as

216 THE PARSEES.
they are sometimes called, with their outspread wings
dangling loosely in the air, as if they were pieces of wet
leather. In the suburbs, on the BycuUa side, there
are several charitable institutions, having large piles of
buildings, — such as hospitals and schools ; and there
are in and around the city, ecclesiastical structures
belonging to the Church of England, the Presbyterians,
and the Free Church of Scotland. We have no
missionary here ; and there is only one Wesleyan
missionary in the entire presidency of Bombay :
our missionaries having been sent more to other parts
of India.
The most remarkable people in Bombay are the
descendants of the ancient Persians, called Parsees.
They were driven here by Mahomedan persecution, and
have shown themselves to be an intelligent, energetic,
and gratefully loyal race. It is estimated that not more
than 150,000 of them are left in all parts, and that
110,000, or more, are in the island of Bombay.
They have wrought their way up to a first position
in the city, and successfully compete with Europeaas
in trade and merchandise. Indeed, they are the
traders, bankers, brokers, and accountants of the place,
and fill the Fort with their stores, warehouses, and
offices. Their dress is exceedingly neat and clean.
They have a dark chocolate- coloured covering to
their heads, which is between a helmet and a tur
ban, in shape ; and some of them wear silk trousers and
white tunics, and drive in splendid equipages. Many
of them reside in stately mansions in the suburbs,
surrounded by extensive gardens. They are cha
racterized by truthfulness, sobriety, and loyalty to

THE PARSEES. 271
England ; and every year they are becoming more and
more Anglicized in their views of education and
domestic life. It is not without meaning that they
have been denominated, the " Saxons of the East."
One of them has obtained a world-wide celebrity by his
munificent donations in charity and benevolence ot
£250,000, and more, given to various objects ; and by
the bestowment of a baronetcy upon him and his
descendants from the Queen of England. Sir Jamsetjee
Jeejeebhoy, Bart., the prince-merchant of Bombay, who
rose to wealth and honour by his own energy and
benevolence, has bequeathed a patrician name to his
family. One custom of the Parsees is revolting to Europeans,
and that is the treatment of their dead. When life
becomes extinct, the body is wrapped in clean clothes,
and placed on an oblong piece of polished stone, which
is laid on the floor, while the members of the family sit
around it and mourn. Then, before sunset, if possible,
the body is placed on an iron bier, and is borne by
corpse-bearers to the Dokhma, or Tower of Silence,
erected in some solitary place, and generally upon a
mountain. Across iron grating, at the top of this high
cylindrical roofless tower, the naked body is laid, where
it is immediately preyed upon by bare-headed vultures,
ravenous kites, and other carrion-birds, which hover,
scream, and contend there for their victims. The bones,
stripped of their flesh, fall through the iron grating into a
golgotha pit beneath. This is a barbarous practice by
a people so clean, intelligent, and refined, as the Parsees.
My host of the Clarendon was a Parsee ; and though he
had there a large and airy establishment, yet he had
his country house for his family, his private carriage.

218 VOYAGE FROM BOMBAY TO ADEN.
personal attendants, and lived in first style. He was a
sensible, well-educated, well-informed man, and was
most courteously communicative on all questions pro
posed to him.
Sat., April 27. — Drove to the Fort at eleven a.m. j
bought some trifles of inlaid work from the natives.
Took boat, and went on board the " Orissa " at three ;
dined at six ; and at half-past eight we steamed out of
the magnificent roadstead of Bombay for Aden and
Suez. Sun., April 28. — Read the Liturgy, and preached on
board, morning and evening. We had music and
chanting, and there were good and attentive congrega
tions, out of our two hundred passengers.
Mon., April 29, to Sat., May 4. — Voyaged on plea
santly in fine weather. We had religious service each
morning in the saloon at half-past nine, well attended ;
and on the last day the Arabian coast appeared at our
right, like alpine hills overshadowed by long horizontal
clouds. Sun., May 5. — Found ourselves at Aden when we
awoke in the morning. We had religious service on
board morning and evening ; but the Sabbath was sadly
desecrated by many, who purchased feathers, baskets,
and coral, from Jews and Arabs. Left Aden at half-past
six : a hot night.
Mon., May 6, to Frid., the 10th. — Sailed up the Red
Sea under a moderate heat and agreeable weather.
Sketched the Sinaitic range, and copied in colours the
fiery sunset.
Sat., May 11. — Sketched Moses' valley, and the
part of the shore said by some to be that where the

ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. 219
Israelites crossed ; but others contend that they went
over higher up, beyond Suez, where the channel has
been dried, and filled with the sand of the desert. If
here, at the first-named point, one can see how the
multitude were shut up to crossing the sea, or going
back to the swords of their pursuers ; and if the removal
of the place of crossing to a shallower part be to lessen
the difficulty, such an attempt is vain ; for the, case was
a miracle wrought by the direct interference of the
Almighty, to whom a deep or shallow water was the same.
We reached Suez before noon, remained there till three,
when, under advice from steamboat and railway authori
ties, we left our heavy luggage to be sent after us, and
set off by rail to Cairo. We arrived at the old city of
enchantment by half-past six in the evening.
Sun., Mon. 12. — Our principal portmanteau was not
forthcoming at Cairo, as promised ; so we had to hasten
forward to Alexandria to see if it were sent forward
with the general luggage for England. I went on board
the English steamer, about to leave, tq search for it ;
but could neither see nor hear anything of it. We were
strongly advised not to sail without it, but, as we valued
it, to remain in Egypt until it was sought for and found.
So, while inquiries were made, we resolved to visit
the Holy Land, finding that in a Russian steamer,
leaving Alexandria early the next morning, we 'could
be at Jaffa twenty-four hours afterwards, and at
Jerusalem on the day of landing, if we pleased. We
had not spared private expenditure before this in seeing
anything desirable, that was not strictly within the
range of my mission ; and ascertaining that for fifty
pounds, or so, we could have guide, guard, provision,
and travelling, and yet be back at Alexandria for the
u 2

220 DEPARTURE FOR THE HOLY LAND.
next Peninsular and Oriental Company's steam-ship
to England, — while to remain in Egypt during the
interval, would be to remain among objects and scenes
already familiar to us, — we engaged our dragoman, and,
with an American friend, who had come with us from
Bombay, went forth to Palestine.

CHAPTER IX.
Dbpaktube for the Holy Land— Jaffa — Pilgrims returning from the Holy
City — Associations of "Joppa" — Journey to Ramleh — Night at the
Latin Convent — Scriptural sites in the journey from Ramleh — "Watch-
houses— First sight of Jerusalem— Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Holy
places — View from St. Stephen's, Gate — Valley of Jehoshaphat — The
Mount of Olives — Zion Gate — The Jews' Quarter — Mount Zion —
Ancient and Modern City— Walls and Streets — Bethany — Church of
the Ascension — Sepulchre of the Holy Virgin— Other Sepulchres —
Tophet — Aceldama — Jews' Wailing Place— Solomon's Bridge — Second
visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Mon., May 12. — Left the harbour of Alexandria, in
the Russian steamer, at five in the morning. It was a
large, good vessel, and had been built at Greenock, in
Scotland. The officers were gentlemanly in their
demeanour, and exceedingly attentive to us, both at the
table and elsewhere. We were nearly all the first-class
passengers on board. Strewn over the deck, in the
forepart of the ship, were Mahomedans, with their
many wives, returning from Mecca ; and both Jew and
Christian pilgrims going to Jerusalem. Some of these
were haggard, wretched-looking beings, with anxious
spirits, that seemed to give them no rest. The Mahom
edan women were curtained round in an upper bed
chamber-like apartment, and had Nubian guardians;
but whenever we looked towards them we could see
their bright, dark eyes peering at us from behind the
u 3

222

JAFFA.

curtains. The weather was fine during the day, and in
the earlier part of it we sighted, in the distance, Rosetta,
and then Damietta, and saw plainly how the deep blue
water of the Mediterranean was discoloured by the out
flowing of the Nile into it at its mouths from the Delta.
The evening was serene, and a rosy emerald flush tinged
both sea and sky.
Tues., May 13. — Arrived at Jaffa, the ancient Joppa,
at six o'clock in the morning : were rowed ashore in a
small boat, by native boatmen, — Abram, our dragoman,
filling the boat with baggage, and with tent, beds, and
firelocks. It seemed perilous to pass into the narrow
opening of low, craggy rocks amidst the roll and foam of
the angry surf that dashed upon them ; but we rode
safely between the reefs which make the harbour, and
then, free from the breakers, floated smoothly to the
quay, where we landed on the backs or in the arms of
Arabs, amidst deafening voices, which we could not
understand, except at the loud and vociferous cry of
" backsheesh." Abram soon, by a small coin or two,
had all his stores through the " Customs," and cleared
our way through a noisy and dense crowd of pilgrims
returning from the great feast at Jerusalem, who were
eager to get home by the Russian steamer we had left.
We were led to the hotel for breakfast ; and while horses
and mules were obtained for our ride to Jerusalem, I
took a guide, and went through the dirty, lane-like,
crowded streets of the city, to view the points and places
of traditional interest in it. I went to the House of
Simon the Tanner by the sea-side, as it is called, and
to the dwelling of Tabitha, whom Peter raised to life, —
or rather to what they show for these. The town con
sisted chiefly of shops for the sale of old arms, old

JAFFA. 223
clothes, tobacco, and various fruits. After viewing the
site of Napoleon's bloody massacre in 1799, and the
ornamented fountains and gate, I emerged from the
city on the land side, where the road and ground around
it were crowded with camels, asses, fruit, and dirty
Arabs ; and passed onwards some quarter of a mile to
see the orange and lemon-gardens, so famous in their
relation to Jaffa. The air was richly scented with the
golden fruit which hung around us; and we were
offered a hamper full of large delicious oranges for a
shilling's worth of Syrian money. My walk through
the city had not at all increased my admiration of it.
Jaffa looks well from the water, where its streets of
houses rise one over another in terrace-form, from the
blue sea at its base to the sloping hill on which it
stands, and with its palm and orange-trees at the side ;
but no sooner do you enter its narrow, filthy streets,
and see its motley throng of dirty Arabs, Jews, and
pilgrims, than, in remembrance of the first sight of
it from the sea, you think of Campbell's line, —
" 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view."
Still, Jaffa is an interesting place. Perhaps, but few of
its buildings are more than one hundred years old ; so
that its houses of apostolic miracles can only represent
the sites of the veritable structures belonging to them,
if even they do that. But if not so old as some have
affirmed, — and if not the place of Noah and his ark, —
it is, undoubtedly, one of the oldest seaports known.
It was given to the tribe of Dan in the allotments of the
promised land. It was the chief port of the Jews to
which cedar from Lebanon was brought, for both the
first and second temple of the Jews. It was at Joppa

224

JOURNEY TO RAMLEH.

Jonah embarked for Tarshish, when he sought to flee
from the presence of the Lord, and escape his unwel
come mission to Nineveh. It was there that Peter had
his singular vision in a trance, and where he raised
Tabitha to life again. And since then it has been the
key to the Holy Land for crusaders and conquerors.
We left Jaffa on horseback, at three in the afternoon,
to reach Ramleh, said to be the ancient Arimathea,
before dark. Abram, our guide and guard, went before,
with sword at his side, and a huge firelock in his hand ;
and our American companion had pistols loaded and
primed in his waistband. I and my wife went unarmed,
having no fear of danger, and on our slender Arab steeds
pranced our way on the road through the gardens —
enclosed by prickly pears higher than ourselves on
horseback — in the suburbs of the city, and then over
the sweet plains of Sharon. My broad, packed-out,
Turkish saddle, and heavy angled stirrups, did not con
tribute to my comfort in riding ; but the thought of
being in the " Holy Land," and going to " Jerusalem,"
reconciled me to an uneasy seat, especially as Mrs.
Jobson, on her English side-saddle, cantered and gal
loped so comfortably along. The " plain of Sharon,"
though not yielding to our view any roses, or lilies of
the valley, such as furnished emblems for the poetic
bards of Judah, was yet rich arid beautiful. In this
fruitful plain were reapers and gleaners, with camels
laden with corn, and sweet lark-like birds singing
among the stubble, and in the flowery meadows of
intervening lands. The peasantry were somewhat
Egyptian in their features and colour, as if they had
partaken, in some degree, of the old Philistine blood,
from the district lying between their country and Egypt.

JOURNEY TO RAMLEH. 225
But they were better clothed than their neighbours of
the Nile; and their striped and many-coloured jackets
were a picturesque sight. We met in our way pilgrims
on mules, chiefly Greek Christians, returning from the
great festival of the holy city ; and some of the stout
Russian women, who rode astride on huge loads of kit
and bedding, and shook heavily at the trot of their
burdened steeds, were singular in their appearance.
We sought to see, on our left towards the sea, by the
use of our hand-glass, the remnants of the cities of the
Philistines, such as Ashdod, Gath, Ascalon, and Gaza ;
but we could sight nothing in that mysterious region,
which from childhood had been associated in our minds
with Samson and giants, but sand-hills and barren
mounds. After some three hours' ride over the gently
undulating, enamelled plains, we reached Ramleh, where
we were to rest for the .night. The town, as seen on
approaching it, is pleasantly situated on a gentle eleva
tion, and its white buildings are picturesquely em
bowered in olive-groves and orchards, with here and
there a lofty palm overhanging a mosque or a convent.
There is a noble tower on the right, now viewed as a
minaret, but which some contend was originally the
campanile of a magnificent church, the remains of
which are said to be near to it. Certain it is, that this
was an important place in the hands of the crusaders ;
and it was here that they held sumptuous feasts in
honour of their patron saints. We rode down a wind
ing road, fenced by hedges of cactus; and at the
entrance of the town alighted at the Latin Convent,
where we were hospitably received, and waited on at
dinner, in their refectory, by friars, each in his brown-
hooded dress and waist-rope. They were very obliging ;

226 SCRIPTURAL SITES.
and an Italian, who served Mrs. Jobson and me at table,
became almost loving in his demeanour, when I told
him that I was a Christian minister who had visited his
native country, and seen the Pope. The brethren
showed me the chapel of Nicodemus, and said he and
Joseph of Arimathea lived there ; also another chapel
near to it. Both chapels were showily fitted up with
'presentation-pictures and glittering furniture. But my
wife was not allowed to accompany me : these chapels
being beyond the precincts of approach allowed in the
convent to females. After careful preparation for us
by the friar valet-de-chambre, in our stone-walled sleep
ing-room on the ground floor, we retired to rest ; and,
wearied with excitement, and horseback exercise,
slept soundly within our musquito-curtains, until
awakened the next morning by the matin-bell and
chant of the convent.
Wed., May 14. — Left Ramleh on horseback at six
in the morning for Jerusalem. We passed through
narrow, crooked lane-like streets in which were loung
ing and sauntering mingled Moslems and Christians,
and in which, stretched at full length in the dust and
filth, were many hairless, scabby dogs. After emerging
from the town, and descending past its burial-ground,
we rode several miles through plains and fields, with
the "mountains of Israel" before us. Lydda, now
called Ludd, where Peter, in the name of Christ,
raised iEneas from his bed of palsy, and which is the
reputed birth-place of England's patron saint, St.
George, was seen on our left; with its group of pure
white buildings, bordered with sweet green foliage,
and nestling on the side of a gently-moulded hill;
while beyond it, stretching far away to the sea,

SCRIPTURAL SITES. 227
swelled Mount Carmel. We soon began to ascend
rocky and rugged steeps ; and passing at the foot of a
desolate-looking village, where we were importuned by
clamorous beggars, we wound our way round the village
of Latron, at which, the monks say, the "penitent
thief" had his abode, and used to descend upon unwary
travellers. It is now a heap of ruins upon the brow
of a steep hill. The day became increasingly hot ; and
after two hours' ride we rested awhile under a broad
overshadowing fig-tree, which might have well served
as an oratory for Nathanael. Afterwards we rode
on for another hour ; and then, in a valley among
olive-trees, rested again, making the ground our pil
grim's table, on which to take refreshment.
Resuming our travel, we entered more slippery and
shelving gorges, or roads, and met many pilgrims of
various nations, chiefly Russians and Greeks ; but there
were some French officers among them in full uniform.
The women pilgrims were, as before, astride on mules
or donkeys. Towards noon the road began to be all up
hill, and was exceedingly broken and difficult : it being
chiefly formed along rocky ruts and crevices, intersected
by large boulders, and adown which the waters rush in
wet seasons. Thus our way was often for a long space
over bare and slippery rock, and apparently most
perilous. But our horses, though shod over the
entire foot, and that without any points, hooks, or heels,
were sure in their tread; and we progressed safely.
We passed by Beit Nubah, where Richard Cceur-de-
Lion made some brilliant skirmishes without going
forth to take Jerusalem ; and also Anwas, which Euse
bius and Jerome affirm to be the Emmaus to which the
two saddened disciples were walking when the risen

228 SCRIPTURAL SITES.
Saviour joined Himself to them, and where afterwards
He made Himself known in the breaking of bread.
But Anwas is more than threescore furlongs from
Jerusalem, and is too far for the disciples, after their
evening meal, to have returned to the city that night,
as the Scriptures affirm they did. We also passed by
Kuryet, said to be the ancient Kirjath-jearim, though,
if so, the ark " brought into the house of Abinadab "
must have had a rough and steep ascent. His house,
however, Scripture states was " in the hill." And
if so, this celebrated robber-village, with its castle-like
dwellings and massive gothic church in ruins, was the
south-west angle of the territory of Benjamin. The
valley of Ajalon was seen on our right, from behind an
interposing mountain, — the valley which has been for
ever memorialized by the command of Joshua to the moon
when he pursued the routed host of the five kings. The
real Emmaus, it is supposed, must have been in this
neighbourhood, and in this direction, also, David's conflict
with Goliath of the Philistines ; and here, before climb
ing the steep ascent towards Jerusalem, are to be seen
remnants of a Roman bridge, showing that the traveller
is in the old highway of this region. Here, to my
relief, I obtained an English saddle, brought from the
hotel at Jerusalem where we were to be entertained.
Neby Samwil appeared on its high, stony peak on our
left, as we climbed the rugged steep ; and whether the
real Mizpeh of the Scriptures or not, no better place
could be supposed for a watch-tower, or for a prophetic
overseer. We then reached a rocky plateau, from whence we
could look far round, and see the whole mountainous
and undulated region. It is difficult, in its uncultivated

FIRST SIGHT OF JERUSALEM. 229
state, to conceive how such stony heights and
depths as these could have been the " pleasant " and
"fruitful" land described in Scripture. Yet, upon
consideration, it must be seen, that such ground, in its
elevations, shelves, and ridges, would be most favourable
to vines, figs, pomegranates, and olives ; and that when
clothed with these in their seasons, the rounded hills
and intervening vales would make Judea, both in beauty
and produce, a " delightsome land," and the " glory
of all lands." Along the road from Jaffa to Jeru
salem, at stations of a mile or more apart, stand what
are called the " Watch-houses," erected by the Sultan
for protection of pilgrims. They are as large as the
Martello-towers on our coast between Brighton and
Hastings ; only, instead of being round, they are square.
The soldiers, who sleep and live in them, ride to and
fro on horseback, from station to station, like the
mounted police in our rural districts. From the last
but one of these stations, we had our first sight of the
Holy City.
From what we felt we could not wonder that the
ancient Crusaders, when they had this sight, threw
themselves upon their knees, and wept with emotion.
Immediately before us, although more than a mile dis
tant, was the impressive form of the broad, massive
tower of Hippicus, whence the lofty embattled wall
extended on the right to Mount Zion. Within the
wall, and above it, stood up the Armenian Convent and
its sable companions, the tall cypress trees. To the
right of these, and on the crown of Mount Zion, rose
the tower and turret called David's tomb ; and beyond
a valley, still further right, arose the " Hill of Evil
Counsel." The wall, also, extended northward on our

230

ENTRANCE TO JERUSALEM.

left, but it was much hidden from our sight by build
ings, and more especially by a very large one in course
of erection by the Russians, as their chief ecclesiastical
establishment at Jerusalem. A crowded burial-ground
was in the descending land immediately to our right ;
and beyond it stretched the plains and road towards
Bethlehem. We entered the Holy City by the Jaffa gate at half-
past five in the evening, and were lodged at Hauser's
Hotel in Christian Street, adjoining the Pool of Heze-
kiah. When we had dined, wearied with our
day's excitement and ride, we were glad to retire to
bed. Thurs., May 15. — Being unable to sleep for excite
ment during the night, and impatient to see the
Holy City, I went out before breakfast with a Jew
guide, to obtain a general view of Jerusalem. Passing
northward through the narrow uneven street of our
hotel, in which were small shops on either hand, with
men of various nations guarding or serving in them ;
and treading over some two or three hundred yards
of the uneven pavement, I reached a covered part, where
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre extends itself over
the road. I then turned down a narrow way to the
right, and, after descending some steps, found myself
in the entrance-court of this great church of renown.
Its external appearance is not very imposing, though
its pointed arches, with their dog-tooth ornament, tell
of both labour and cost bestowed upon them. They
are broken and mutilated in parts, as if they had been
violently assailed with axes and hammers. There were
remains of the moulded basements of marble pillars on
the low platform from whence you take a view of the

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 231
front of the building. There are chapels and monas
tic establishments, left, right, and behind, as you
stand facing the church, with mendicants in their
tattered dresses crouching against them ; and at the
entrance door before you, Turkish soldiers are seated
on cushions, shewing that all is under Moslem guard,
and that we cannot enter this Christian temple without
Moslem permission.
I was allowed to enter ; but not so my Jew guide,
who cringed and drew back, telling me with a peculiar
shrug and look, that he was not permitted to go in ; for
they said he belonged to a race who crucified Christ.
Turkish soldiers were also within the door lounging on
cushions and carpets. I passed them without drawing
even a lazy look from them, and beheld everywhere the
tawdry display of coloured marbles, gilt ornaments,
swinging lamps, and pictures illustrative of Christ's
death, burial, and resurrection. The place was scented
with incense ; for though it was not yet six o'clock in
the morning, ardent residents and pilgrims had already
been for worship ; and in every compartment priests
and attendants had been swinging their censers.
I felt little of their superstitious ardour, and looked
sceptically on the " holy places " before which the
several groups were bowing ; but yet I could not stand
within such walls without peculiar emotion. Intend
ing to return another day, when my wife should view
with me this interesting spot, — after hastily pacing my
way around the aisles, and through the adjoining
chapels, — I passed out, and returned to the road leading
northwards from the hotel, joined by my Jew guide.
This is the Via Dolorosa, or street along which Christ
is said to have borne His cross. x 2

232

VIA DOLOROSA.

I soon turned eastward down a narrow, irregular
street, often broken, and overshadowed at different
places by houses built across it. This is the Turks'
quarter ; and they were seen sitting cross-legged in
their small shops, and emerging from low,,doorways of
dwellings which one felt a strong curiosity to enter,—
although such a hasty glance as could be gained in
passing shewed that they were generally abodes of
wretchedness. As we descended the rugged and slip
pery street, my Jew guide pointed out to me, with an
incredulous look, the stone projection within its sunken
doorway where St. Veronica is said to have wiped the
bloody and perspiring face of the thorn-crowned
Saviour, and to have received the miraculous impres
sion upon her handkerchief; then a recess in the wall,
where the transverse beam of the cross is said to
have struck; and the indenture of His hand in the
wall where He is said to have fainted and fallen. Of
course, these are fictions, because the buildings are
modern, comparatively, bearing characteristic features
of the Saracenic period ; but one could not in a street
at Jerusalem hear allusions to the sufferings of the
Redeemer without emotion. After a turn or two of
the street, we reached the arch of the Ecce Homo — a
building thrown across the street, and having a window
from which Pilate is said to have shown Christ to the
multitude. Still descending, we reached St. Stephen's
Gate; and I passed out, eager to have a more ex
tended view of the scene of so many thrilling associa
tions. We stood on high, broken ground, outside the city,
with the eastern wall on our right, and over it the
purple dome and gilded crescent of the Mosque of

VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 233
Omar on Mount Moriah, — the site of Solomon's Tem
ple. Before us, in the deep gorge below, lay the valley
of Jehoshaphat ; and we could discern the line of the
dried brook Kidron at the bottom. In the valley,
across the brook, stands Absalom's Tomb, and other
sepulchres of the Hebrew dead ; while all around, in
the valley and on the hill, are the graves of Jews, who
come from all parts of the world to die in Jerusalem,
that their bodies may lie here. To the left, across the
brook, and gently rising out of the valley, lay the Gar
den of Gethsemane, with its ancient olive-trees ; and
still lower, and more to the left, the Tomb of the Vir
gin; while over these swelled the Mount of Olives,
with the various lines of road across it to Bethany,
and crowned with the Church of the Ascension. A
little to the right of the Mount of Olives, and more
distant, rises the " Hill of Evil Counsel ; " and in the
extreme right, the " Mount of Offence ; " while over
all, in front, may be seen the distant mountains of
Moab. Not only Mount Olivet itself, but the gorge
beneath, and the steep leading up to the eastern wall
of Jerusalem, are embossed with hundreds of olive-
trees. At the top of the steep, under the city wall, is
the Turkish burial-ground, thickly covered with graves
and tombs. But one thinks not of the Turks and
of their tombs, when gazing upon a scene like this ; for
here, a Christian feels, are crowded together all the
sweetest and holiest associations of his life ! There
rose the mount up which my Saviour trod to pray in
the loneliness of the night. There lay the garden in
which, " being in an agony, He prayed more earnestly."
Across that hill lay the road leading to the house of
His tenderest earthly friendship. There was the dried
x 3

234

VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT.

brook He crossed on the night of His betrayal. It was
all real. There could be no deception here. There
might be forgeries about spots within the wall of the city,
but it could not be so here, and the sight was overpower
ing ! I have stood at the foot of Mont Blanc and gazed
with awe at its " sovran " peaks. I have indulged fancy
in pictured Venice, and within the spacious ruins of the
Colosseum, — and paced the gorgeous aisles of St. Peter's.
I have voyaged along the mighty Mississippi, stood in the
spray of foaming Niagara, crossed the broad lakes and
inland seas of America, and trod the pavement of her
rising cities ; and I had but lately breathed the air of
the newer world of the far south, felt the soothing
influence of the sweet natural scenery of Ceylon,
witnessed the eastern life of Bombay and Cairo,
glanced at the sculptured caves of Elephanta, and felt
as if transported to a world more ancient than our
own while lying at the foot of those wondrous Pyra
mids; but I had experienced no feeling like the all-
subduing feeling of the morning in which I first saw
Olivet and Gethsemane. Every train of hallowed
thought seemed to point to that moment; and with
mingled sorrow for sin and love to the Saviour, I
gazed in over-awed silence upon these holy scenes, —
feeling they were really holy in their associations.
I afterwards paced my solemn way by the eastern wall
of the city amidst the graves and tombs of the Turks ;
and passed by the Golden Gate, which is very hand
some, but which has been walled up for ages. My Jew
guide said it had been walled up at the taking of Jeru
salem, and would never be re-opened until his own peo
ple were restored. We wound past the south-east
angle of the city wall, with the Kidron still below, and

CITY OF DAVID. 235
the ruined village of Siloam in front; and, climbing
over loose rubble on its steep side, reached the site
of the city of David, and beheld his tomb.
We re-entered Jerusalem by the Zion Gate, within
which, with their fronts turned towards the high wall,
were the hovel-looking stone huts of the lazars or
lepers. We were now in the Jews' quarter. Here
was once the favourite residence of David, the magni
ficent palace of Solomon, and afterwards of Herod;
but we had to thread our way through an entangled
network of narrow passage and lane-like streets, — the
houses looking generally half-ruined, and everything
speaking of poverty, suffering, and desolation. It was
touching to meet the forms of venerable men in long,
flowing garments, and their beards reaching to their
girdles ; and to see beautiful young girls, fair as lilies,
clothed with no richness of garb, yet some of them with
exceeding cleanliness, glide out of the dingy houses and
under the passages, like things of stealth and scorn,
and to remember that here their fathers had once trod
in pride and power. The unmistakeable Jewish stamp
was upon all the faces we met in this quarter. In the
streets of trade, the men were busily employed in all
kinds of working occupation, and eagerly solicited me
to traffic with them in articles brought from all parts of
the world. You felt that the Israelite of the Jews'
quarter in Jerusalem and he of Rosemary Lane at
the east of London was the same. Passing next into
the better accommodated Turkish quarter, I regained
my hotel for a late breakfast.
In the afternoon my.wife and I, with our Jew guide,
went over the city to take, in the first instance, a general
survey of its plan and topographical relationships. We

236 MOUNT ZION.
had previously, of course, examined the various theories
of writers upon the relative positions of interesting points
in ancient and modern Jerusalem ; and, knowing that
every foot of ground in and about the city, and almost
every stone upon it, had been scrutinized by a thousand
keen and controversial eyes, we resolved not to perplex
ourselves by the numerous contradictory opinions of pre
decessors in travel, but to view for ourselves the real
Jerusalem in which we were, and to observe how far it
answered to our remembrances of reference to it in
Scripture. Beginning with Mount Zion, we saw how high and
impregnable it was amidst the hills around it, and that
it was naturally chosen by the Jebusites, from whom it
was -taken by Israel, as their chief fort, or stronghold.
Here, upon the brow of this loftiest hill, stood the
palace of David, the poet-king, with the Tabernacle of
the Lord, while on its slopes around were the abodes of
his people, extending to a wall of defence which sur
rounded it in the depths below. This was the site of
the city of David, when that monarch took it and made
it his capital in the place of Hebron. As he gra
dually subdued from thence the surrounding tribes, the
buildings of the city would extend themselves into the
suburbs; and we know that the threshing-floor of
Araunah, the Jebusite, was upon Mount Moriah ; for
it was there the plague was stayed. Thus viewing
Mount Zion, as you stand upon its summit, it is not
difficult to realize the Scripture declarations of its
impregnable security, when surrounded by "walls"
and " bulwarks ; " and of the beauty of its situation, as
"the joy ofthe whole earth," whither "the tribes went
up to worship;" while, in its present condition, the

ANCIENT AND MODERN CITY. 237
bold and daring prophecies concerning it by Jeremiah
and Micah are seen to be literally fulfilled in its being
" ploughed as a field."
When Solomon succeeded to the throne, and took
possession of Jerusalem, with its fortifications and
palaces, his first act was to fulfil the pious purpose of
his father David, and to build a House for the Lord.
This he did upon Moriah, the hill adjoining, in the most
costly and perfect style possible, calling to his aid, as
his chief architect, a skilful and highly-accomplished
man, who was " son of a woman of the daughters of
Dan, and his father a man of Tyre;" so that the
gorgeous temple which he built was, no doubt, of
Tyrian-Jewish architecture. For this he levelled the
rocky summit of Moriah, and made the grand and spa
cious platform on which the mosque of Omar now stands.
During the reign of Solomon, the royal capital, with his
kingdom, enlarged and flourished ; so that, probably,
Acra, immediately north of Mount Zion, as well as
Moriah, north-east of it, was enclosed within a second
wall ; and then between Zion, on the north, and Acra
would be the Tyropoeon, or valley, — spanned by'a bridge
of many arches, extending from the royal palace to the
temple, — and from it to the union of the valleys of Jeho-
shaphat and of the Son of Hinnom, at the south-east
depth of Zion, ran the " valley of the cheesemongers."
The ground, in its elevations and intervening declivities,
favours this supposition, which is based upon the records
of the Scripture ; while on the south-east slopes of Zion,
and onwards in the valleys around, are sites and ruins
agreeing with historic notices of the orchards, vineyards,
and pools of water, with which Solomon adorned and
irrigated his capital, in the time when, through lucrative

238 ANCIENT AND MODERN CITY.
commerce with the East, he enriched Jerusalem until
he " made silver to be in it as stones."
Thus far all is clear and satisfactory as to the pro
gressive formation of the city; but in its successive
enlargement northwards, there is much uncertainty.
Manasseh, we read, "built a wall without the city of
David, on the west side of Gihon, even to the entering
in at the Fish-gate, and compassed about Ophel, and
raised it up a very great height." This was south of
Moriah, and was occupied by the Nethinims, or servants
of the temple ; but how the parts north of this mount,
and north of Acra, were added, is not known. After the
temple had been destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, and the
city laid waste by him, we know that the second temple
was built, (no doubt upon the original platform,) amidst
mingled rejoicing and weeping, — and after that, in the
days of Nehemiah, the city walls were restored; (no
doubt upon the old foundations ;) but how the city pro
gressed and enlarged unto the time of Herod, who
restored it and the temple to more than former mag
nificence, soon to be followed by burning and devastation,
until not one stone was left upon another, is not noted,
and cannot now be ascertained. If Josephus is to be
credited in his record, that two millions of people were
within the city when it was besieged by the army of
Titus, then the circuit of the walls must have been much
larger than two miles and a half, which is now their
girth ; and yet if Calvary was any way near the site of
the Holy Sepulchre, and "beyond the gate," then the
northern wall at that period could not have extended
much beyond Acra, or beyond Hezekiah's Pool, which
we should suppose would be within the city. So that
when or how Bezetha, or the large northern portion of

WALLS AND STREETS. 239
Jerusalem, was added, with its encircling wall, cannot
be known.
Probably, the city now, in its general outline, except
at the north-west angle, is as it was in the time of
Christ ; and the sites of Calvary, Herod's Palace, and
Via Dolorosa, may have been near to what are named
for them. Tradition, though uncertain, yet reaching so
far back, is not to be lightly set aside ; for within two
or three centuries of the events referred to, learned and
inquiring Christian teachers would be more likely to
learn localities than we who live 1,600 years later ; and
as far as I was able to judge, with the Bible in my
hands at Jerusalem, the traditions from the early
Fathers on the sites and scenes of Scripture events, are,
at least, as probable as any modern conjectures.
Some difficulties present themselves ; but they may be
expected after successive wars and destructions in the
long lapse of time which has occurred, and when the
vast accumulation of debris and ruins has filled
up intervening valleys as much as forty feet. The
tower of Hippicus, at the Jaffa Gate, with its solid
Roman basement, the springing arch-stones of the
bridge which led from the temple to Solomon's palace,
the bevelled Jewish masonry of huge stones in the lower
part of the walls west and east of the enclosure round
the temple site, with the aqueducts and pools south of
Mount Zion, are points and features of importance in a
topographical survey of Jerusalem, and are, undoubtedly,
remnants of ancient times, which have been preserved
through the wars and destructions ofthe city during 1,800
years past. We made the circuit of the walls, which are
from ten to fifteen feet thick, and from thirty to forty feet
high, according to the nature of the ground over which

240 WALLS AND STREETS.
they pass, having battlemented breastwork on the out
side, with salient angles and towers at intervals, and
running over hills and across valleys in zig-zag lines.
The walls are evidently built up of old materials, and
vary in their masonry in different parts. They are said
to have been constructed by Sultan Suleiman in 1542,
but, in all probability, they rest on old foundations.
Some portions give evidence of this. From the rampart
at the top of this wall, very fine views, both of the city
and the surrounding country, are obtained ; and it is
almost impossible to look round from such a position,
and not call to remembrance the gracious promise, that
" as the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the
Lord is round about His people."
In the walls of the city (which lieth four-square)
there are five gates now open : one on each of the west,
north, and south sides, and two in the south wall,
crossing Mount Zion. And within the city there are
five principar streets, as they may be called : three
running south and north, and two west and east. These
are narrow, dirty, confined, and arched over in parts,
with buildings across them, so that they are dark as well
as cumbered with dirt and offal. Small eastern shops
and stores line the sides of these, with houses here and
there intervening; and persons of all nations throng
them, out of a population, perhaps, of 20,000, who,
generally speaking, may be said to number, almost
equally, one-third each of Mahomedans, Jews, and
Christians. Ruin and desolation are everywhere visible ;
and poverty and wretchedness appear in most of the
people. Outside the gates, on every side of the city, sit
the lepers, not white and scaly, but dark and diseased,
with rotting features and limbs, holding bowls in their

BETHANY. 241
fingerless hands to the passers by for alms ; while in
the cemeteries around the walls are companies of
mourners, or " wailers," who make loud lamentations.
There is a haughty, masterful bearing among the Turks
towards the Jews ; and the latter complain pitiably of
their oppressed condition in their own city. Jerusalem
is, indeed, "Hrodden down of the Gentiles."
Frid., May 17. — Before breakfast I went outside the
wall of the city at St. Stephen's Gate, and sketched the
scene which had impressed me so deeply the day before.
After breakfast we mounted on horses, and, with our Jew
guide, descended from the eastern gate a very precipitous
road into the vale of Kidron ; and then, by a gentle
ascent, passed the wall of the Garden of Gethsemane3
and wound round the Mount of Olives by the southern
road, which leads to Bethany. This is, most probably,
one of the roads trodden by Christ in His frequent resort
to that place of favoured friendship. The ruined village
is pleasantly situated on the eastern slope of the moun
tain, and to European eyes scarcely contains a house
that would be regarded as habitable. Of course, we
were shown the house of Martha and Mary, and also
the tomb of Lazarus. I sketched these, though really
incredulous regarding everything, except the site of the
village. The house is far too modern to have been there
1,800 years ago; and the rocky, subterranean vault,
with its low doorway, scarcely answers the description
given of it by St. John, who says, " it was a cave, and a
stone lay upon it." The few wretched inhabitants of
the place seemed to be Arabs ; and they gathered around
us with looks of wonder, the men, women, and even
little children, stretching out their hands, and imploring
"backsheesh." As usual, we gave something to the
Y

242 SEPULCHRE OF THE HOLY VIRGIN.
tattered and clamorous beggars around us, not willing
to have our remembrance of Bethany at all beclouded
by the thought of having refused relief to persons in
abject poverty.
Leaving the locality where it is said Christ ofttimes
resorted with His disciples, with all its hallowed associa
tions, we climbed the Mount of Olives to its summit,
where stands an ecclesiastical building, called the
" Church of the Ascension." This is shown as the spot
where the Saviour ascended, and from whence the cloud
received Him out of the sight of His apostles ; and there
is even shown you His last footprint on earth ! — but
we did not enter to look. It is hardly probable that
Christ ascended from this prominent and exposed spot,
which might be seen from all parts of the city. It is
more likely that it was from a retired part lower down
on the south-east shoulder of the mountain; since the
Scripture relates that it was " over against Bethany."
We now descended by the middle path, until we reached
the place where Jesus is said to have beheld the city,
wept over it, and foretold its doom. The view of Jeru
salem from this part is comprehensive and striking;
and the temple-site from this descent spreads itself
impressively before you. On reaching the depth of the
angle, where the steep road from Stephen's Gate and
the Valley of Kidron meet against the north-west corner
of the Garden of Gethsemane, we found the subter
ranean church and sepulchre of the Virgin open ; so
descending its sixty steps, we went into its gloomy vault,
and, by the dim, mysterious light of its swinging lamps,
viewed at the bottom the reputed tomb of Mary,
with its tabernacle, and tawdry altar furniture; and
then, on our return, saw, on our left, the chapel and

OTHER SEPULCHRES. 243
tombs of Joachim and Anna, and on our right that of
St. Joseph.
We were glad to emerge into the open daylight ; and,
looking round upon the steeps and olives of this neigh
bourhood, reflected that here, without doubt, Christ
often retired from the throng and noise of the adjoining
city for prayer and communion with the Father, and for
private converse with His disciples. We then descended
by the Valley of Kidron to Absalom's tomb, with its
semi-Egyptian and Roman massive square and inverted
" pillar," half buried, as it is, with the stones which the
Jews throw at it as they pass. It was over here, no
doubt, that David fled from his city on the rebellion of
his son and people, and when he went up the Mount of
Olives weeping. Behind the large monumental tower
for Absalom is the subterranean sepulchre of Jehosha-
phat, from which it may be that the valley takes its
name. We passed the other impressive sepulchres
and tombs adjoining, in the Valley of Jehoshaphat,
which are ascribed to St. James and Zechariah.
The former is a cave, extending as much as fifty feet
back under the mountain, and has a Doric front of
pillars and frieze cut out of the solid rock; and the
latter is a pyramidical tomb hewn out of the mountain,
and left separate from it, with a height of thirty feet, or
so. These tombs, in their forms and excavations, have
some resemblance to the sepulchres and tombs of Petra ;
and the ground in all this part, and on all its slopes
and ledges, is covered with the grave-stones of buried
Jews. Pursuing our descent, we had the village of Siloam
on the overhanging rocks at our left, and the foot of
Mount Zion at our right ; and we reached what is called
y 2

244

TOPHET.

the Fountain of the Virgin, and then, still further on,
the picturesque Pool of Siloam, where the waters still
"go softly." There the ground is cultivated and
fruitful, so as to support by appearance the tradition
that this was the place of the king's gardens. It was in
that part of the Valley of Gihon that Solomon was first
proclaimed king, and from which Adonijah and his
revelling companions in the city of David above, heard
with consternation the shouts of the people. On the
left, in the ravine descending to the Dead Sea, is the
" Fountain of Job," as it is named ; and nearer, in the
same direction, is an overshadowing mulberry tree,
where tradition affirms Isaiah the prophet was sawn
asunder. Winding our way westwards round the
southern slope of Mount Zion, in the Valley of Hinnom,
we found ourselves in a desolate glen, which, on our left,
had stern, rugged rocks and precipices, full of the yawn
ing mouths of caverns, empty and tenantless, and which
overhung an impenetrable ravine, or rather a charnel-
house. This was "Tophet," where its unquenchable
fire, and undying worm, preying upon its multiplied
victims to Moloch, made it the type of hell. It was here
that Solomon, Ahaz, Manasseh, and others, committed
abominations, denounced so fearfully by the prophets,
nnd for which Israel suffered so terribly. Crowning
this gloomy glen on our left, is the traditionary
" Aceldama," or " Field of Blood," bought by Judas,
the traitor, and from which he fell, it is said, into the
depths below, when he went out and hung himself.
Ascending the valley north-westward, we passed the
lower pool of Gihon, with its aqueduct at one end,
through which, most probably, water was brought to
the temple from Solomon's large pools beyond Bethle-

Solomon's bridge. 245
hem ; and, re-entering Jerusalem at the Jaffa Gate, we
dismounted our horses, and walked forth, it being Friday,
to see the Jews' " Wailing Place."
It is a short space, like a narrow court-yard, paved
with flat stones, but not a thoroughfare, lying under the
high wall which forms a part of the western boundary
to Omar's mosque, or the temple-site. The huge stones,
for about half way up, with their bevelled edges, would
seem to be of Jewish masonry, and this is very credibly
believed to have been part of the ancient temple-wall.
The Jews are not allowed to enter the temple-area, but
they are permitted to come here once a week, and wail
for the ruined city of their prostrate nation. They do
so by reading and repeating, with sobs and tears, pas
sages from the Psalms and prophets expressive of deep
lamentation over the ruin of their holy city, and its holy
and beautiful house, in which their fathers praised God.
And it was, indeed, a tender and moving sight to see
ancient, long-bearded men, and women shrouded in long
white robes, enter the area, walk along the sacred wall,
kissing its stones, and pouring into its crevices their
lamentations and prayers ! It was a scene confirm
ative of the truth of Christianity, for it brought for
cibly to mind Christ's own lament over Jerusalem
before its fall, and His prophecy on its coming
desolation. Springing from this wall, but nearer to its south-west
angle, remains part of an arch of the ancient bridge
which spanned the Tyropoeon valley between Moriah
and Zion. It is of huge, massive masonry ; and some
of the stones of the wall against it are as much as
twenty and twenty-four feet long, and from five to six
feet thick. My guide said it was part of one of several
y 3

246 Solomon's bridge.
arches which supported the grand causeway that Solo
mon erected to extend from his palace to the temple,
and which when the Queen of Sheba had seen, there
was no more spirit in her ; but others ascribe the con
struction of this vast bridge to Herod, when he built
his temple ; and say, that it was upon it Titus stood when
he called upon the Jews, who had fled to the city of Zion,
at the burning of their temple, to surrender, without
forcing him to further destruction. But, in any case, this
fragment is part of one of the arches which supported
the extended way from the city of David to the temple,
at the time of Christ; and, no doubt, upon it the
Saviour often trod in making that passage over what
was then a deep and rugged hollow from Zion to the
south porch of the temple. The valley is now much
filled up with accumulated rubbish; and round this
corner, and along the foundations of the south wall of
the temple enclosure, grows an impenetrable thicket
of prickly pear ; but all the masonry of the lower part of
the wall in this part is large and old. Of late it has been
discovered that, under the temple platform, there are vast
subterranean vaults, out of which, some suppose, mate
rial for the temple was taken ; but others view them as
having been designed for cisterns and reservoirs, made
by Hezekiah and his successors, to supply Jerusalem
with water. Be that as it may, the underground work
below the temple area is astonishing in its depth and
extent ; and passages for blood and water, from sacri
fices, have been traced, it is affirmed, extending from
the parts where the altars stood, down to the valley of
Gihon, which is as much as five hundred feet lower.
These theories, however, are conjectural: only it
solemnizes and impresses the mind to see and study

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 247
these extensive works of antiquity in such associations ;
and, after looking upon these huge ancient stones
and fragments, we returned, full of thought, to our
hotel. The remainder of the day was spent in a visit with
my wife to the church of the Holy Sepulchre. We
had to wait a considerable time at its doors, amidst a
motley crowd of sects, — Greek, Latin, and Coptic, —
who had come thither to worship, but were not allowed
to enter because the Mahomedan worship had not yet
closed in the mosque of Omar. The crowd, as it
gathered and thronged the door, frequently murmured
with impatience, and the priests within the church
looked through the small square opening in the door,
and shook their heads with a sense of mortification ;
but they had not the means to admit any one of us. I
spent the time in sketching the garbs and costumes of
the several characters around me. At length the Mos
lem official stalked across the court towards the church,
and ascended a ladder to unlock and unbolt the door, —
the fastenings being placed so high, that he could not
otherwise reach them. The Turkish soldiers entered
first, climbed their cushion-seats as a tailor would
climb his shopboard, and there squatted themselves in
state, with their turbaned heads, baggy trousers, and
glittering swords, as custodians ; while we, the multi
tude, passed in. Our dragoman, who was a Roman
Catholic, conducted us round the church, and, together
with an assistant whom he called, gave us a volume
of information, such as it was worth, concerning the
holy spots within the church.
The first object was the " Stone of Unction," upon
which Christ's dead body is said to have been anointed

248 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
for burial. It is a large flat tombstone-like slab of Sienna
marble, lying on the floor before you, in the south
transept, as you enter the church, having, as its append
ages, very large candles and suspended lamps. It is
not professed that this is more than a cover of the real
stone of anointing, which is said to be immediately
below it. Several of the crowd rushed towards this
stone as soon as admitted; bowed themselves around
it, and commenced repeating their prayers. Turning
westwards to its left, we were shown the spot where
tradition relates the Virgin Mary stood when the body
of Jesus was being anointed. This, too, had lamps
burning over it. Then turning to the right, we passed
under the western dome, where stands the shrine, said
to be raised over the spot within which Christ was
entombed. It is a large tabernacle-kind of structure,
covered in front with pictures and gold, canopied with
a large blue banner, which is ornamented with a white
cross and stars. We entered the shrine between lines
of giant candlesticks, with candles in them twenty feet
high, by a low doorway ; and immediately within were
shown the stone upon which, we were told, the angel
sat when he declared to the women, " He is not here :
for He is risen, as He said. Come, see the place where
the Lord lay ! " This stone is smaller than one would
expect to find it, and is enclosed in a font-like pedestal.
Pilgrims bend over it, and kiss it most fervently.
Through a still straiter door we passed into a narrow
cell, in which, on the right side, stands a plain white-
veined marble tomb. Over it hang numerous lamps of
gold and silver, studded with gems, — the offerings of
kings and princes, — reflecting, through their coloured
mediums, various lights. This is the Holy Sepulchre

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 249
itself. A strange dreaminess is produced by the varied
dim and coloured lights of the lamps, and by the strong
perfumes of the incense. Here the pilgrims,— beggars,
princes, friars, Greek priests, Armenians, or Copts, — are
all one in spirit ; and they bow low as they kneel and
kiss, with weeping, the marble slab of the tomb, worn
as it has been by its myriads of visitors. Beholding
the emotion of these pilgrims, I felt at first a feeling
resembling shame that I did not bow down with them
and show as much apparent affection for my Lord and
Saviour ; but the whole affair was so tricksy and evi
dently false, that I could not do it. Behind this shrine,
against its western pentagonal wall, in an obscure situa
tion, is the place allotted to the poor Copts for worship.
It is small and mean, and they are evidently treated as
underlings by the Latins and Greeks. Still further
back, and through the western wall of the Rotunda, we
were shown a vault which they call the tomb of Joseph
of Arimathea; but which appears much too short to
hold a human body.
Returning to the front of the shrine, we were led to
the gates of the Greek chapel, which is, in fact, the
nave of the building; and is most gorgeously gilded
and enriched all over with screens, stalls, and canopied
seatsfor the dignitaries. Numerous lamps,gold and silver,
hang suspended from its central lantern, or are swung
in clumps from the roof, which are kept ever burning.
In the middle of the door is a short marble column,
said to be the navel or centre of the earth. Passing
out of the gates of the Greek chapel, we were shown
various "holy places," such as that where Christ
appeared to Mary His mother after the Resurrection,
the pillar to which He was bound when He was scourged

250 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
by Pilate, the prison where He was confined during the
interval between His condemnation and crucifixion, and
the very impressive crypt, or subterranean chapel at the
east, said to have been built by St. Helena, the mother
of Constantine, over the spot where she found the real
cross. Proceeding round the screen of the Greek
chapel, we reached the eastern side of the south tran
sept, at which we first entered the church. Here we
ascended some steep steps to what they show as the
site of Calvary. It is a curiously arched chapel, lighted
with lamps, adorned with pictures, very beautifully
paved; and under the altar table there is an orifice,
encircled with gold, which is perpetually kept open and
often perfumed, and wherein they assert the foot of the
cross was placed. They hkewise lift up a silver strip
of the pavement, right of the altar, and show you
beneath it a part of the rock which, they say, was rent
as Christ expired. At the side of this chapel is another
of meaner furniture, where, they affirm, the cross was laid
upon the ground while Jesus was nailed to it. In each
of these localities there were devotees kneeling, making
genuflexions, kissing the stones, and some of them
shedding tears. It is impossible to think of so many
" holy places " within the limited space, without suspect
ing them to be "pious frauds;" yet, while rejecting
the multitude of more modern inventions, one cannot
but reflect that somewhere within this very enclosure,
where Christian pilgrims have come for fifteen cen
turies, may have transpired the Saviour's crucifixion.
It is hard to believe that the primitive Christians,
engaged as they were with spiritual matters, and scat
tered as they were by persecutions, would altogether
disregard, or lose the remembrance of the place where

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 251
Christ was crucified ; though doubtless for wise ends,
and to save mankind from idolatry and superstition,
the exact spots of events connected with the Saviour's
life and death, have, for the most part, like the
burial-place of Moses, been lost to the knowledge of
mankind.

CHAPTER X.
Journey to Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomh — Salesmen in Bethlehem — Church
of the Nativity— Tomhs and Shrines — The Plains of Bethlehem—
The Garden of Gethsemane — Ancient Olives — Pentecost and a Sacra
ment with Christian Jews, in Jerusalem — Boom of the Passover —
Pool of Bethesda— View from the Mount of Olives to the Dead Sea
and the Mountains of Moah — Journey to Bethel— Gibeah — Mizpeh —
Ramah — The Mosque of Omar and the Tower of Hippicus— Farewell
to Jerusalem — Journey hack to Jaffa — Voyage Home.

Sat., May 18. — Up to an early breakfast, and by
six o'clock the iron-shod hoofs of our horses were
clattering on the slippery pavement of Jerusalem.
We climbed the narrow street and passed out of the
Jaffa Gate, for Bethlehem. Turning to the left, we
descended into a valley, and after skirting the large
lower pool of Gihon, which is hewn out of the solid
rock, we passed a long string of alms-houses, erected
for poor Jews by Sir Moses Montefiore. Then we rode
among pleasant fields in the plain of Rephaim, where
David conquered the Philistines, to the Greek Convent
of Mar Elias, — where, in contradiction to Scripture,
the monks say the prophet Elijah was fed by angels
under an olive tree when he fled from Jezebel. We
then descended by an easy slope to Rachel's Tomb, —
a building which is neither imposing, nor of great

SALESMEN IN BETHLEHEM. 253
antiquity ; but which, no one seems to doubt, occupies
the veritable site where Jacob buried his favourite wife.
On the hill before us we could see Bethlehem, standing
on the crown of a succession of terraced gardens. Its
buildings appeared castellated, as seen from a distance.
Winding by an uneven path of loose stones, we
entered Bethlehem, and found it much less imposing
and attractive than we expected. The streets were
narrow and irregular ; the dwellings poor ; and within
some of them might be seen the people at work upon
mother-of-pearl relics, sandal-wood, beads, &c. A
crowd was soon around us, offering beads and carvings
for sale. The men, women, and boys, were clad in
dresses of gay colours, in which red and scarlet pre
vailed. The inhabitants are Christians. Many of the
women were beautiful in feature, and wore crosses
and rosaries. The Bethlehemite men, however, are
said to be a fierce race ; and we found them to be
exceedingly clamorous in pushing their sales, and cry
ing for " backsheesh." They followed us to the Con
vent Church of the Nativity, and at times did not seem
merely to entreat alms, but somewhat threateningly to
demand them. On entering the church we found the
nave large and imposing. It is, undoubtedly, the
oldest part of the building, and is said to have been
erected by the Empress Helena on the model of an
ancient Basilica. The pillars of the nave are of reddish
marble, and are, perhaps, older than any other part of
the church ; having been brought, it is supposed, from
another edifice. It is covered with an open roof which
must have been renewed since the church was first
built. The building looks dirty, and, in this part of it,
seems much neglected. z

254 CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY.
From the nave we passed into an aisle on the left,
and then were conducted into a large room of the con
vent, cushioned round, as a sort of refectory for
pilgrims. It was a day of abstinence ; so we were
furnished with plain viands, very rudely cooked, and
brought by shaven monks in their brown dresses and
hoods. They then took us to see the place where
Christ was said to be born, which is at the east end
of the church, in a cave or recess scooped out of the
rock, and reached by descending steps. It is adorned
in the Romish way with pictures and tinsel, and is
overhung with numerous lamps of gold and silver,
reflecting various colours. Opposite this shrine of the
Nativity is that of Joseph, the husband of Mary, with
similar gaudy adornments. We stood and saw the
visitors come and bow; and although we did not bow
with them, we could not shake off a feeling of reverence ;
for we reflected that if the manger in which our Lord
was laid were not situated here, it must have been in
some spot near at hand.
In this underground region we were also shown the
cave and grotto of St. Jerome, in which he is said to
have fasted, prayed, aud translated the Scriptures into
Latin : the translation called the " Vulgate," in com
mon use among Roman Catholics. Near to the gloomy
abode and burial-place of the great recluse, there are
the tombs and altars of S. S. Paula, his devoted patron
ess, and of her daughter Eustachia, as also of some
saint named " Eusebius," which cannot be the cele
brated church historian, though the monks would fain
have you believe it is. We left these vaults and pas
sages, with their glimmering lamps, rude altars, and
pictures ; and emerged from the crypt of the Nativity

PLAINS OF BETHLEHEM. 255
by a flight of stairs leading into the Greeks' portion
of the church, which was dazzling all over with
pictures, gold, and swinging lamps, in their usual
way. From the convent we walked forth eastward to see
the Plains of Bethlehem ; and felt that here again we
were amidst realities. No doubt it was surrounded by
these mountains, and upon these green and lovely plains,
that the shepherds kept watch over their flocks by
night, and heard overhead the angels sing the incarna
tion-hymn. It was here, also, that the son of Jesse
kept his father's sheep ; and from the caves of the
rugged and desolate mountains around came the lion
and the bear which he slew before he challenged and
slew the uncircumcised Philistine, the shaft of whose
spear was like a weaver's beam. Here, also, Ruth, the
Moabitess, followed the gleaners in the field of Boaz.
I sketched the whole scene of beauty and heart-thrill
ing interest; after which we returned by the Milk
Grotto, in which tradition relates that the Virgin and
Child were hid from the fury of Herod the royal
assassin, before their flight into Egypt ; and returned to
the convent. Here we remounted our horses, and rode
back by Rachel's Tomb to Jerusalem, full of deep and
tender reflections on what we had seen.
Finding we had yet some time on our hands, we rode
slowly through Jerusalem, then out at St. Stephen's
Gate, and descended to the foot of the Mount of
Olives, that we might view more deliberately the Gar
den of Gethsemane. The monks have modernized it
by enclosing it with a wall, and by planting it as a
" garden ; " but when you look upon its ancient olives,
their immense boles gnarled, knotted, and twisted, like
z 2

256

GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE.

so many huge enwreathed serpents, they seem so old,
that you are ready to believe they overarched the Man
of Sorrows in that night of His mysterious agony, when
He lay prostrate on the ground, and " sweat, as it were,
great drops of blood." You feel sure that if it were not
actually here, it was not many paces off, where he cried,
" Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from Me ! "
and where through the darkness He beheld the gleam
ing torches and the approach of the base betrayer. It
was a spot to awaken feeling which one cannot and
would not describe. The monks were reverentially
respectful to my wife, and gave her flowers from the
garden, and a bit of the branch of one of the olive-
trees. After sketching the ancient trees, I went alone
in the solemn evening to view and sketch the tombs
of St. James and Zechariah in the valley of Kidron,
surrounded as they were by the thousands of Jewish
graves which I had previously beheld. It was night
fall when I got back to the city.
Sun., May 19. — We attended service at the English
Protestant Church, which stands opposite the Tower of
Hippicus, on Mount Zion, and not far from the
Jaffa Gate. It is a plain gothic structure, without any
tower, looking in its front like the east end of an
English church, with the parapet sloping up to a cen
tral point. The congregation was good, and composed
largely of converted Jews. In the transept on the right
were seated a number of Syrian youths who have been
brought to Jerusalem, and are taught in a school
situated in the city of David, and which the present
Bishop of Jerusalem, Dr. Gobat, founded, and super
intends. After the liturgy we had a good plain evan
gelical sermon by the Rev. Mr. Barclay, (who preached

ROOM OF THE PASSOVER. 257
extemporarily,) on, " Have ye received the Holy
Ghost ? " it being Whitsunday. We remained, and par
took of the Lord's Supper, with the solemnly joyful
feeling that we were really " come to Mount Zion," and
were holding Christian fellowship with converted Jews.
We looked forward to the time when there will be
literally one fold under one Shepherd. But even now
all sectarian views and feelings were gone, and we
experienced one large yearning for the establishment
of Christ's kingdom over all the earth.
It being Pentecost, we went from the church to visit
the Room where it is said the Saviour kept the Passover
with His disciples, and where the Holy Ghost descended
upon them in cloven tongues of fire. It is an old, large
upper-room in the city of David ; but, from its early
pointed arches, it is evidently a building of only modern
antiquity. It may stand on the site where Christ took
the Last Supper with His disciples ; but it cannot be
the veritable chamber in which He washed their feet,
and spake to them the sweetest words of tenderness and
consolation that ever His voice uttered. From this
room there is a descent by steps, under a canopy, to
the entrance of the Tomb of David, which is more
exclusively guarded and reserved by the Turks from
infidel eyes than the mosque of Omar itself. We were
not allowed to descend the steps, much less to enter the
tomb ; and our American friend was pushed away from
the very sight of the entrance, somewhat roughly, and
with Moslem threats. In the evening we again attended
Divine service in the English church, and heard
one of the missionaries to the Jews preach a good
sermon, on " Quench not the Spirit;" but not so
plainly evangelical as that we heard in the morning, —
z 3

258 POOL OF BETHESDA.
and, being only read, not so effective in the
delivery. Mon., May 20. — Rose early : went and sketched the
" Via Dolorosa," and the " Ecce Homo ; " and then
turned into a convent, where they show another place,
in which they say Christ was scourged, giving me still
less confidence in their showings. After breakfast
sketched the " Pool of Bethesda," as it is named. It
is a kind of huge tank, in a remarkable situation
between St. Stephen's Gate and the temple-site ; and
there is room enough for the five porches to have stood
by it ; but whether it be the identical piece of water
beside which the impotent man sat when Christ bade
him take up his bed and walk, is questionable. It is
much larger than Hezekiah's Pool, another piece of
water which lay next our hotel, in Christian, or Patriarch
Street, and which is said to have been provided by the
pious king for the supply of Jerusalem ; but it is impos
sible to tell what reliance is to be placed on the tradition.
I afterwards called on the Consul, Mr. Finn ; and found
him exceedingly courteous and obliging. He showed
me a fine view of the city from the upper part of his
house ; and kindly pointed out some of the remarkable
sites in Jerusalem. He also promised to send the
next day a Janisary, who should conduct me to a spot
where I could have a good view of the mosque of Omar
and its court.
In the afternoon rode with my wife, and our Jew
guide, by the left road over the Mount of Olivet to the
other side of its crown ; and descending as far as it was
thought safe from thieves, we beheld the extensive scene.
Bethany was on our right, under the brow of the hill ;
before us were the broken, rugged hills of the barren

JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 259
wilderness where Christ endured His temptation, — a
most desolate-looking region. Far away on bur right,
over the brown wilderness, lay the " Dead Sea." It
was of a heavy leaden colour ; and stretching away to
the left, but still beyond the " wilderness of Judea,"
was the winding line of the Jordan, clothed with verdure
at its sides and banks. Our guide pointed out to us
the serpentine part where the Israelites crossed.
Stretching far beyond all, in the light purple distance,
were the mountains of Gilead and Moab, with Nebo
amongst them, from which Moses viewed the "goodly
land," and on which he died. In the less remote
distance, between the line of the Jordan and the barren
hills of the wilderness, may be discerned ancient and
modern Jericho ; and one could now plainly understand
how the man who fell among thieves "went down" to
Jericho. It is a very dangerous road, along which
the traveller needs trusty soldiers to guard him. Some
travellers from the North of England, who had gone
down thence a few days before, had been robbed and
stripped ; and a sheik was then in prison, to be confined
there until the stolen property was restored. In our
foreground was a Turkish burial-ground, with goats in
it, feeding under the guardianship of a Syrian shepherd,
and with a small mosque to the right upon it. The
sweet, green herbage of the burial-place formed a beau
tiful contrast to the barren tract beyond, while the
shepherd's turban and coloured dress, the black goats,
and the mosque, served to give distance to the picture.
After I had sketched this view, we returned by the
middle path over the Mount of Olives, seeing in our
way the " Caves of the Prophets," and having from that
neighbourhood a full view of the platform on which the

260 JOURNEY TO BETHEL.
temple stood, with the walls and buildings of the city
around it.
But what a melancholy usurpation we were wit
nessing! On that rocky platform Abraham, at the
command of God, went forth to offer up his son. There
Solomon raised his magnificent temple, and at its open
ing supplicated Jehovah in that lofty strain, while the in
cense rose to heaven, and smoke went up from thousands
of bullocks and rams, consumed in sacrifice. And there
Christ performed so many of His miracles of mercy,
and taught the people with words of wisdom, which
compelled them to say, "Never man spake like this
man ! " But there, now, the children of Abraham were
mere scouted refugees in rags and wretchedness, and
the proud, sluggish, and sensual Mahomedan had seized
the greater part of the inheritance, while the gilded
crescent from the dome of Omar proclaimed it his own.
Most likely over this very road on which we stood David
fled into the wilderness at Absalom's rebellion; and
from this very spot where we have been standing to
look upon Jerusalem in its ruin, David's Lord beheld
the city, and wept over it.
Tues., May 21. — Rode off at early morning with our
Jew guide for Bethel, which lies some twelve miles
north of Jerusalem. Passing out of the Jaffa Gate we
turned to the right, and doubled the north-west of the
city- wall : thence descending till we reached the broad
Damascus Gate, with its flanking, embattled towers,
and many marks of fray and siege, — we struck north
ward into the road for Bethel. About a mile forward
we reached a singular excavation in the solid rock,
called the " Tomb of the Kings," but which is supposed
to be the burial-place of the Empress Helena, the

RAMAH. 261
mother of Constantine the Great. It is — like the Tomb
of the Prophets, and other burial-vaults about the city —
a series of chambers, with arched recesses at the sides
for bodies, something after the manner of the Cata
combs at Rome. The front has had a deep and
elaborate frieze and cornice ; and the chambers, or
vaults, were reached through a low doorway, closed
from observation by a thick slab-door, which fitted so
closely that the place of opening could not be discerned.
Soon after, we left the road leading to Anathoth, the
birth-place of Jeremiah, and climbed the stone-terraced
height of Gibeah, a place associated in our minds with
the names of Saul and Samuel from the time we read
the historical books of Scripture in our childhood.
Then, on the left, rose Mizpeh, crowning a lofty green
hill, and we could imagine the prophet Samuel from
thence surveying the country round. Among the hills
north of Mizpeh our guide pointed out Gibeon ; and we
soon met companies of Gibeonites going to Jerusalem
with broken wood upon their heads, and asses ; for they
are still " hewers of wood and drawers of water." We
then descended by a zig-zag path into a valley deep and
rugged, and had shown to us the scene of Jonathan's
adventure with the Philistines, and where his father
said he must die for having tasted a little honey out of
the rock. We passed Ramah on the crown of a rounded
hill amidst trees. It was a pleasant abode for the
" school of the prophets," which had the venerable
Samuel for its head, and where Saul was once seized
with the spirit of prophecy, if that was the real Ramah
of Samuel. Skirting the western side of that hill, the
rocky, shelving road conducts us to Bethoron, and on to
Bethel ; and on our way our guide pointed out to us, in

262

BETHEL.

the far left, the "hilly country" to which the
Virgin ascended on her visit to Elizabeth her cousin,
the mother of the Baptist ; and also the place where
Jesus was missed in his boyhood from the company,
and whence Joseph and Mary returned to Jerusa
lem to seek him. It was interesting to have even
imaginary spots pointed out to us connected with the
history of our blessed Lord ; but we could not help
feeling that they might be only imaginary.
Still pursuing our way northwards on rough and
rocky roads, and over hills, on the ledges of which the
stone platforms were worn bright by horses' hoofs, we
passed Bethoron, and soon reached Bethel. This, also,
is a village in ruins. Its scanty inhabitants live in
falling hovels ; and there are the ruins of a Greek church,
near which is a dried basin of a large pool. There are
pleasant fields all around ; and on the ridge of a high hill
beyond stands the remnant of a square tower, called
" Jacob's Pillar." It is said to be on this spot that the
youthful fugitive patriarch slept on his pillow of stone
that memorable night when God appeared to him at,
the top of the ladder of ascending and descending
angels, and promised to be with him, and to give him
and his seed that land for an inheritance. We now
dismounted, and took a meal from the provisions which
we had brought with us, under the broad shade of a fig-
tree, in a garden near one of the half-ruined houses of
the village. From the flat roof of one of these houses I
sketched the surrounding scenes, while the Arabs and
their children gathered around us, and cried vociferously
their everlasting " backsheesh ! "
We returned over the hills and valleys on the way we
came, until we nearly reached Jerusalem, when we rode

MOSQUE OF OMAE. 263
somewhat westwards, and visited what are called the
"Tombs ofthe Judges." These are, perhaps, the most
perfect aud extensive of the impressive series of exca
vated tombs which surround the greater part of the
city. The whole mountain-range, from the north-west
comer of Jerusalem to the village of Siloam, aud up
the valley of the Son of Ilinnom, is honeycombed with
sepulchres, which often consist of many chambers, ex
tending far into the rock ; so that it is said, there are
more tombs in the hills around the holy city than there
are houses within it. Tradition states, that iu these
excavations persecuted Christians often took refuge,
and had their abodes. After a view from Mount
Scopus, where the Roman army under Titus encamped,
— we glanced at the hilly platform from whence the
imperial legions made their most successful assault
upon the city ; but we did not remain long to view it,
being fairly wearied out with our teu hours' ride under
a Syrian sun.
//'<•(/., May 22. — By six in the morning, in fulfilment
of the Consul's promise, a janisary came to our hotel
to conduct me to the Turkish barracks, which overlook
the court-yard of the mosque of Omar, or ancient
temple-site. He preceded me through the streets,
striking his long silver-topped staff against the pavement,
like a drum-major walking before a regimental band;
calling the attention of passengers in the street, and
the inhabitants of the houses, to the fact that somethinff
important was going on. I was somewhat tickled with
this parade ; but was gratified to find that it secured for
mc an easy passage through troops, and guards, and
sentinels, to the ramparts of tlie citadel. Here stood,
in all probability, the castle and palace of the governor

264 MOSQUE OF OMAR.
of Jerusalem; and here, most likely, was the judgment-
hall in which Jesus was accused by the Jews, and con
demned by Pilate. From this point of view, the pano
rama of the city was more complete than from any
other ; and from it the temple-site, and the buildings
upon it, are beheld to great advantage. You see plainly
from hence that the large spacious platform, which is
now occupied by the mosque of Omar and its court
yard, has been perfectly levelled by the hand of man in
former ages ; so as to render it fit for a temple so ample
as that of Solomon, with all its necessary adjuncts for
the sacrifices of animals, and the dwellings of priests.
The mosque itself, which, with its many-coloured
marbles and glittering dome of rainbow hues, may lay
claim to magnificence, occupies comparatively but a
small part of this vast, prepared platform. It stands on
the spot where the altar of Jehovah stood. Beneath it
is a channel, perforated to an immense depth in the
rock of Mount Moriah to the vast vaults below, as
before noted. These vaults must have had their outlet
in the vale of Kidron ; for this was the great drain for
the blood, offal, and washings of the sacrifices.
The mosque is enclosed at some distance in a square
of low Saracenic buildings, which is entered on each
side by high and ornamental gates. On this stand
praying-shrines, fountains, and the exquisite Arabic
pulpit, so well known. Between this square and the
rampart of the citadel is a large space which seems to
form a solemn promenade for the Moslems, and into
which " infidel dogs," Christian or Jew, are not allowed
to enter. There is a small domed erection in it on
the left, as you look down from the rampart, which is
called " Solomon's Throne ; " while on the right, in

TOWER OF HIPPICUS. 265
the distance, are groups of olives and cypresses, with
buildings of eastern shapes, and towering above them
the tall minaret, from which we heard the muezzin, so
often during the day and night, cry, " Allah Akbar ! "
and, " Come to prayers ! " At the southern extremity,
in the middle, is the church-like mosque of El-Aksa,
with its beautiful dome. On the right, is a range
of cloister-like buildings for dervishes, and Moslem
ecclesiastics. The distant landscape is composed of the
Mount of Olives on the left, the mountains of Moab in
the far centre/ and the hill of " Evil Counsel " on the
right; while Mount Zion, and the buildings of the
Jews' and Turks' quarters, are seen over the western
enclosure. I sketched and coloured these, to make
myself familiar with such deeply-interesting objects, as
beheld from this elevated position on the roof of the
barracks. The janisary proceeded with me through the streets
of the city, to the tower of Hippicus, striking his iron-
pointed staff on the pavement very vehemently, and
holding his head aloft. This is a broad massive fortifi
cation, an undoubted remnant, as we have seen, of the
ancient Jerusalem, of the time of Herod ; Josephus
himself stating that it was spared at the siege, by Titus,
a.d. 70. It stands at the boundary of the western
wall, near the Jaffa Gate. From the upper part of it I
had another extensive view of the city.
Leaving the janisary, I proceeded alone on the road
which passes by the Armenian convent, and out at the
Zion gate, to the large upper room of the Passover,
which I had visited in the preceding Sunday; and,
having obtained an entrance, I sat to sketch it. The
Arabs, old and young, crowded round me, and with
A A

266 FAREWELL TO JERUSALEM.
curious looks watched the tracing on paper of the
pillars and groined arches of this ancient chamber.
They were so familiarly officious in their attempts to
help me, — putting their hands quickly into my pockets
to reach pencil or penknife, when they thought I wanted
it, — and coming so near to my face, that I felt, at
times, a little apprehensive as to what they might next
do towards a stranger who was entirely in their power.
But I persevered with my sketch, new visitors crowding
in, and showing equal interest in it,— evenNubian women,
as well as Arab men, appearing before me, and placing
themselves in certain postures, that I might put them
into my picture. But I did not gratify more than one
of them, for I had no time to spare ; and the one figure
was sufficient to give scale to the drawing. The even
ing of our last day in Jerusalem had come; and I
now returned to the hotel, examined the account pre
sented to me, and made due preparation for early
departure on the morrow.
Thurs., May 23. — Our horses were ready, and we
left the hotel at five o'clock in the morning. We did
not, however, hasten along the road for the first hour, but
rather lingered, to take a last look at Jerusalem, and to
indulge in reflection on what we had seen, as also in the
thought that we might never, in mortal life, see it
more. The sun, which had just risen above the Mount
of Olives, and threw his soft, gentle light over the upper
part of the city, seemed to give additional tenderness to
our farewell ; while the deep shadow on this side of the
embattled walls and towers, and over the road along
which we were journeying, seemed to accord with our
sadness. After turning to take our last sight of Jeru
salem, we descended the shelving road in silence, — the

RETURN TO JAFFA. 267
thoughts of home gathering in our minds, and mingling
with the feeling that we had at last realized our life-
' dream, and seen the choicest spot to be viewed on earth.
We pursued our way back, " up hill and down dale ; "
for such was the nature of the road, until we rested
under a large old fig-tree, in the " heat of the day," to
partake our meal. By about six in the evening, Ave
reached Ramleh, embosomed in its verdant and lofty
palms and huge cactuses. We remained at the Latin
conveut for the night, and received most pleasing
hospitality from the monks, as before.
Frid., May 24.- — Left Ramleh early in the morning :
our road lying across the beautiful and cultivated valley
of Sharon. The Syrian peasants were already in the
fields, with their many-coloured dresses, some of them
heaping the corn on the backs of camels ; for it was still
reaping time. The sweet notes of birds were heard on
every hand ; and sights and sounds combined to remind
us that we were in that valley of Sharon whose loveli
ness was celebrated by Hebrew poets so many cen
turies ago. Wc passed by strings of pilgrims on this
and the preceding day. They were Russians, Greeks,
and some of other nations, slowly returning from the
great feast of the Greek Church, which had terminated
a short time before we reached Jerusalem. We entered
Jaffa on a road enclosed by high cactus hedges, which
were in glorious blossom, and by the orange-groves,
here so extensive. We did not stay in Jaffa; but made
our way through its descending narrow streets to the
sea-side, quickly passed our examination at the sort of
Custom-House, and, by a small boat, were at once
taken on board an Austrian steamer, about to sail for
Alexandria. We were off iu an hour ; and, before we

268 RETURN TO ALEXANDRIA.
started, I sketched Jaffa as we beheld it from the
vessel. Our company on board gave us another glimpse into '
eastern life. We had several pilgrims on their way to
Mecca ; a few rich Musselmen, who had each four or five
wives ; but of these women, as before, we seldom saw more
than the glance of their bright eyes from behind the
curtains which were drawn across the closet-like places,
in which they were secreted, at the sides of the deck.
The whole of the middle and the fore-deck was crowded
with passengers of an inferior grade : some poorer pil
grims on their way to Mecca, — others Jews going to
Alexandria or Cairo for trade ; and these, with the
Jewish women, (several of them very beautiful,) were all
huddled together like so many cattle.
Sat., May 25. — After a pleasant voyage we reached
Alexandria at five in the evening. We landed, and
drove to our hotel. Then went to look after our lost
luggage ; and were told that, after diligent search and
inquiry, it was ascertained that it had been sent on to
England by a wrong steamer.
Sun., May 26. — Attended the Enghsh Protestant
Church, which is a semi- Gothic and Saracenic structure,
not at all pleasing in its mongrel style of half-Christian
and half-Moslem architecture. It seems an attempted
union and compromise that is neither natural nor
desirable. Mon., May 27. — Found it difficult to settle with our
dragoman, who, after all the civilities and apparent
good- will he had shown us in our travel to Palestine,
wanted to overreach us by demands most exorbitantly
beyond the original agreement. I had to take him
before the Enghsh Consul, who declared that I had

VOYAGE HOME. 269
handsomely dealt with him in my offer and agreement,
for £2. 10s. per day ; so he was compelled to give up
his demand. He afterwards came and apologized for
the trouble he had given, hoping that I would recom
mend him to other travellers ; but I gave him no pro
mise that was likely to comfort him ; nor do I give
him any other recommendation than that contained in
this recital. The fortnight's pilgrimage to the Holy
Land, from Alexandria, cost about £50, as at first esti
mated; but I learned that, with stricter economy, it
might have been made for less.
Tues., May 28. — We had a final drive through
Alexandria, past Pompey's Pillar, and other objects of
interest. By widening our circuit of observation, we
found mansions and villas, with their gardens, sur
passing what we had seen before. We sailed from
Alexandria at five p.m., in the "Elora" steamer,
belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Company.
Wed., Thurs., Frid., and Sat., May 29, to June 1. —
Pleasant sailing. Reached Malta on Saturday morning
by five ; and after going ashore to see the palace of the
Grand Master of the Knights, Armoury, &c, we sailed
from Malta by one at noon.
Sun., June 2. — Read Liturgy, and preached morning
and evening in the saloon of the steamer.
Mon. and Tues., June 3 and 4. — Pleasant sailing
along the Mediterranean, with interesting glimpses of
the African coast.
Wed., June 5. — Fine bold views of the Spanish coast
in the morning, — rich in colour. Two mountains, in
the distance, stood up like pyramids. Reached Gibraltar
by half-past four, p.m., and left by nine at night ; but

27Q VOYAGE HOME.
did not go on shore ; because it had been announced
that we should sail earlier. It was found, however,
that the engine needed some slight repair, so that there
was some delay.
Thurs., Frid., and Sat., June 6, 7, and 8.— Somewhat
rough sailing along the Portuguese and Spanish coasts,
until we came to the Bay of Biscay.
Sun., June 9. — In the Bay of Biscay : the sea smooth,
and the weather fine. Read Liturgy, and preached .
thankful to find • now, -as before, so many desirous of
uniting in religious services, — especially of the military
class. It was also a pleasing reflection that, on the
trial made over so large a portion of the globe, so
much real union exists among true Christians of different
denominations. Mon., June 10. — At six in the evening, Plymouth in
sight, and ship's crowding up the Channel.
Tues., June 11. — Passed the "Needles" at six in
the morning, entered the Channel between the Isle of
Wight and the coast of Hampshire, and felt, after all
the lovely scenes we had witnessed, there was nothing
so lovely as dear old England. Reached Southampton
Pier at nine o'clock ; and, on inquiry, found our miss
ing luggage in the Queen's Warehouse, by the water
side. Set off by rail at half-an-hour before noon, and
arrived at the Waterloo Station at three in the after
noon, earnestly grateful to the Father of mercies for
His signal Providence over us in our voyage and travel
to the ends of the earth ; and for His gracious preserva
tion of us from all injuries, in these changeful nine
months. LONDON : PAINTED BY WILUAM NICHOLS, 82, LONDON WALL.

ffiltorfcs lir. t\t same Jut Jor.
Ih One Volume, post Siv, ornamental cloth price 7s. 6rf.,
AMERICA,
AN 11
AMERICAN METHODISM
WITH A PREFATORY LETTER BY THE REV. JOHN HANNAH, D.D.
UiVSTKATED VKOM OKlQINAl/ SKETCHES, BY THE AUTHOR.

" A BE.U' nt'UL volume, which we take the earliest opportunity of announc
ing, aud whieh we hope ere long to commend mon- effectively by quoting a few
of its vivid passages, — descriptions to the ' fidelity ' of w'hich, ' as .well as to
their beauty and force," Dr. llauuah bears 'williug testimony.'" — WesltgaH
Haga-im. " Evkky page presents important facts, and every paragraph is gemmed-
with beauty  Admirable everywhere, he particularly excels when touching
on Slavery ; and bis book iu this respect cannot, fail to be productive of the
best effects when it shall have been reproduced among the Americans. The
frown and the sorrow of such a man will not go for nothing among that
spirited and high-minded people." — British S/ujtdard.
"Evkky page ghes evidence of the serious spirit of observation which
animated the writer, as he passed, with a ranging, ready eye, aud au open
heart and mind, from city to city, aud from state to state, over tracts of
country full of the elemeuts of deep interest to a Christian Englishman." —
London Qntnicrly Itfrit'ir.
" Dr, Jobson's book combines substance with bright colouring. It is
not only a \ery interesting narrative of voyage and travel, bnt a highly
valuable addition to our staple information iu regard to America. It is just
such a manual on the subject of American Methodism as was greatly needed
iu this country, and must be extensively welcomed. Aud it presents the
fairest aud fullest view of the relations of Methodism to Slavery in the
Viiitcd States which we have yet seen." — Wnlchnittit.
" Wk may commend this work as useful, informing, and, on the whole,
creditable." — Atht-mrum.

LONDON;
JAMES S. VIRTUE, CITY EOAD. SOLD BY JOHN MASON.

WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR.
In crown 8vo., price 6s.,
A MOTHER'S PORTRAIT:
BEING
A MEMORIAL OF FILIAL AFFECTION.
WITH
SKETCHES OF WESLEYAN LIFE AND RELIGIOUS
SERVICES.
Illustrated by Twenty Engravings on Wood by E. Landells, from
Original Pictures by J. Smetham and E. J. Jobson.

In Octavo, price is.,
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WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS TOR THE
ERECTION OF CHAPELS AND SCHOOL-HOUSES.

In Crown Svo., price Zs. and is.
THE SERVANT OF HIS GENERATION.
A TKIBUTE
TO THE MEMORY OP THE
REV. JABEZ BUNTING, D.D.:
EINO A SERMON PREACHED ON THE OCCASION OP HIS DEATH IN EAST-
BROOK CHAPEL, BRADPORD, YORKSHIRE, JULY 18TH, 1858:
WITH A SKETCH OP HIS
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LONDON :
HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. SOLD BY JOHN MASON.