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EXPEDITION

TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES OF

THE WHITE NILE.

VOL. II.

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EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SODRCES OF
THE WHITE NILE,
IN THE YEARS
1243718417^

BY FERDINAND WERNE.
dFrom tije @n*man,
BY QHARLES WILLIAM O'REILLY.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
ftablistftn: in (©rtrtnarji to fetv flUafatr).
1849.

CONTENTS

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER 1.
PAGF
SLEEPING TOKULS OR BARNS.  CRUELTY AND LICENTIOUSNESS
OP THE TURKS.  AKNAUD AND SELIM CAPITAN'S PEAR OP THE
NATIVES.  NEGROES SHOT BT THE TURKS^ — CONDUCT OP THE
NATIVES.  RED MEN.  ARNAUD'S MADNESS. — PEAR OP THE
NEGROES AT PIRE-ARMS. — VISIT OP A CHIEF AND HIS SON. —
TOBACCO AND SHEEP. — MOUNT KOREK. — NATION OP BARI. — VISIT
OP THE BROTHER AND SON-IN-LAW OP THE KING. — CHAIN OP
MOUNTAINS. . . . . . . .1

CHAPTER II.
RECEPTION OF ENVOYS PROM KING LAKONO. — DESCRIPTION OF
THEM. — RELIGION OF THE BARIS : THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS.
— PANIC CREATED AMONG THE NATIVES AT THE EXPLOSION OP
CANNON. — LIVELY SCENE ON SHORE. — COLOURED WOMEN.  ARRIVAL
OF KING LAKONO AND SUITE. — HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE COM
MANDERS : HIS DRESS.  THE NATIONAL MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OP
BARI. — PRESENTS TO KING LAKONO., AND HIS DEPARTURE . . 26
CHAPTER III.
MIMOSAS AND TAMARIND-TREES. — DIFFERENT SPECIES. — DURRA
AND CREEPING BEANS. — RELIGION OP THE ETHIOPIANS. — SECOND
VISIT OP LAKONO. — THE CROWN-PRINCE TSHOBE. — PARTICULARS

VI CONTENTS. TAGS
OP THE COUNTRIES OF BARI AND BERRI.  DESCRIPTION OF LAKONO S
FAVOURITE SULTANA. — MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OP BARI :
THEIR FORM AND DISTANCE. — ISLAND OP TSHANKER.  REMARKS ON
LAKONO's LEGISLATION AND CONDUCT. — THE NJAM-NJAM, OR CAN
NIBALS. — CUSTOMS AND ARMS OP THE NATIVES. — THE TROPICAL
RAINS. .... ... 50
CHAPTER IV.
KING LAKONO'S PRIDE. — BEER KNOWN TO THE ANCIENT EGYPT
IANS. — BAR OF ROOKS. — WAR-DANCE OF THE NATIVES.  DETERMI
NATION OF THE TURKS TO RETURN, AND DISAPPOINTMENT OP THE
AUTHOR. — COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETURN VOYAGE. — REPUBLICANS
IN THE KINGDOM OP BARI.  VISIT OF THE FRENCHMEN TO MOUNT
KOREK. — REASON OP THE AUTHOR'S AVERSION TO ARNAUD. — CON
DUCT OP VAISS1ERE, AND SCENE IN HIS DIVAN.  CULTIVATION OP
COTTON AT BARI. — APATHY OF PE1ZULLA-CAPITAN AND THE CREW.
— SUPERIORITY OF MAN TO WOMAN IN A NATIVE STATE  WATCH-
HOUSES. ...... .76
CHAPTER V.
RIVER BUFFALOES. — COMICAL APPEARANCE OP THE NATIVES. —
WILLOWS. — SPECIES OP STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OP THE WOMEN,
AND THEIR APRONS. — THE LIENNS  ORNAMENTS OP THIS TRIBE :
THEIR TOKULS. — THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS. — ENOR
MOUS ELEPHANT'S TOOTH. — LUXURIANCE OP THE SOIL. — THE
COUNTRY OF BAMBER. — DESCRIPTION OP THE NATIVES.  MANNER OP
CATCHING ELEPHANTS. — ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER. — TRIBE
OP THE BUKOS. — STOICISM OP AN OLD NATIVE. — SLAVES. — HIPPO
POTAMI AND CROCODILES. — THE TSHIERRS. — THE ELLIABS AND
B&HRS.  DESCRIPTION OP THE FORMER TRIBE : THEIR WAR-
DANCE. .... ... 102
CHAPTER VI.
EXAMINATION OP AN ARM OP THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE
BANKS.  PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND POR A LIVE HIPPOPOTA
MUS. — THESE ANIMALS RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE
LIENNS. — ROPES MADE FROM THE LEAVES OF THE DOME-PALM. —
UEKA. — CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OP THE LIENNS. — THE

CONTENTS Vll
PAGE
EMEDDI-TREE. — DOBKER-TREE. — - COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIERRS.
— TRIBES OF THE BODSHOS AND KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OP
THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER WITH THE KARBORAHS : THEIR
DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — MOUNT NERKANJIN  ISLAND OF
TUI. — THE KOKIS. — ¦ CONTEST WITH HIPPOPOTAMI. — CROCODILES'
EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIERRS TO THE ELLIABS. — EBONY
CLUBS. — THE B&HRS : THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — ANT-HILLS.
— " IRG-EL-MOJE " OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES OP VEGETABLE. —
VETCHES.— THE ANDURAB OR ENDERAB-TREE. — THE DAKUIN-TREE.
— A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY OP DUNG- FIRES. 1 33
CHAPTER VII.
THE B6HR " JOI " : HIS TREATMENT ON BOARD THE VESSEL :
HIS ESCAPE.  WOMEN'S VILLAGE. —PELT CAPS. — SONGS OP THE
B6HRS. — TUBERS SIMILAR TO POTATOES. — THE BUNDURIALS. — THE
TUTUIS AND KEKS. — AN ELEPHANT ATTACKED AND KILLED. — TASTE
OF THE FLESH OF THIS ANIMAL. — CHEATING OF THE NATIVES IN
BARTER. — WINTER TOKULS OR WOMEN'S HUTS.' — MANNER OP MAKING
A BURMA OR COOKING- VESSEL. — " BAUDA" AGAIN. — FEIZULLA-
CAPITAN'S INDUSTRY IN SEWING. — THE KEKS LIVE BY PISHING. 
DESCRIPTION OP THE WOMEN. — SERIOUS ACCIDENT TO THE VESSEL. 
OSTRICHES AND APES. — POGS ON THE WHITE STREAM. — WATCH-
TOWERS. — SALE SHOOTS A GIGANTIC CRANE ' IS PUNISHED. — THE
NUEHRS. ..... . . 169
CHAPTER VIII.
NUEHRS. — ORNAMENTS. — MANNERS OP THE WOMEN. — THE MEN. —
CURIOUS CUSTOM OF DRESSING THE HAIR, AND STAINING THEM
SELVES.  VISIT OF A CHIEF. — SPEARS USED INSTEAD OF KNIVES. —
SINGULAR WAY OP MAKING ATONEMENT, ETC. — WE HEAR ACCOUNTS
OP OUR BLACK DESERTERS. — BOWS AND QUIVERS SIMILAR TO THOSE
REPRESENTED IN THE HIEROGLYPHICS. — THE TURKS INDULGENT IN
ONE RESPECT. — MOUNT TICKEM OR MORRE. — TRACES OP ANIMAL-
WORSHIP AMONG THE NUEHRS. — ARNAUD*S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP A
LAKE (AND GASCONADES). — ADVICE TO FUTURE TRAVELLERS ON THE
WHITE NILE.  SWALLOWS.  MEANS OF DEFENCE AGAINST GNATS
DISCOVERED. — THE SHILLUKS AGAIN. — QUESTION OP THE CONTINUAL
ALTERATIONS IN THE APPEARANCE OF THE NILE.— GUINEA-FOWLS. —
GIRAFFES. — BLACK WASPS. — TURTLE-DOVES. — OUR AUTHOR CAUGHT

Vill CONTENTS. PAGE
IN A THORN-BUSH. — FABLED LUXURIANOE OF THE PLANTS IN THE
TROPICAL REGIONS. — VIEW PROM A HILL  MANNER OP CATCHING
PISH AMONG THE NATIVES. — THE SOBAT RIVER. — THE INUNDATIONS
OP THE NILE CONSIDERED . . . 203
CHAPTER IX.
ROYAL CRANES. — SCRUPLES OP FEIZCLLA-OAPITAN. — COMPOSITION
OF THE SHORES.  DESCRIPTION OP THE DHELLEB-PALM AND ITS
FRUIT. — FORM OF EGYPTIAN PILLARS DERIVED PROM THIS TREE. —
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EGYPTIAN AND GREEK ARCHITECTURE. — DE
SCRIPTION OF THE SUNT-TREE.— DEATH OP AN ARABIAN SOLDIER. 
VISIT OF A MEK OR CHIEF. — DANGEROUS RENCONTRE WITH A LION
ON SHORE. — PURSUIT OP THIS BEAST BY THE AUTHOR AND SULI-
MAN KASHEP WITH HIS MEN. — FEAR OP THE NATIVES AT THE
TURKS  PLUNDER OP THEIR TOKULS BY THE CREW. — BREAD-CORN
OF THE DINKAS. — ANTELOPE HUNT  DIFFERENT SPECIES OF THESE
ANIMALS.— IMMENSE HERDS ON THE BANKS OP THE WHITE NILE.
— LIONS AGAIN. — BAD CONDITION OP THE VESSELS . . 237
CHAPTER X.
VARIOUS SPECIES OP GRASSES. — FORMATION OP THE SHORES. —
WATER-FOWLS. — AN ANTELOPE OF THE TETE SPECIES, NOW AT BER
LIN. — STRATA OF THE SHORE. — THE SOBAT RIVER: THE MAIN
ROAD FOR THE NATIVES PROM THE HIGHLANDS TO THE PLAINS. 
OBSERVATIONS ON THE COURSE OF THE NILE AND SOBAT. — A THOU
SAND ANTELOPES SEEN MOVING TOGETHER ! — WILD BUFFALOES,
LIONS, AND HYENAS. — AFRICA, THE CRADLE OP THE NEGRO RACE.
— THE SHUDDER-EL-FAS : DESCRIPTION OF THIS SHRUB. — ARNAUD 'S
CHARLATANRY. — OUR AUTHOR PEARED BY THE FRENCHMEN. 
ARNAUD AND SABATIER's JOURNALS : THE MARVELLOUS STORIES OF
THE FORMER. — THIBAUT'S JEALOUSY. — VISIT OP A SHIEKH OF THE
SHILLUKS. — PEAR OP THE TURKS AT THESE PEOPLE. — SULIMAN
KASHEF PURSUED BY A LION ..... 257
CHAPTER XI.
THE SHILLUKS, A VITIATED PEOPLE. — CAUSE OF THE VIOLENT
RAINS IN INNER AFRICA.  REFUSAL OP THE SULTAN OF THE SHIL
LUKS TO VISIT THE VESSELS. — DESCRIPTION OP A SPECIES OP

CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
GRASS. — BARTER WITH THE SHILLUKS. — CONQUEST OF THEIR COUN
TRY NOT DIFFICULT. — FORM OF THEIR BOATS.  AMBAK RAFTS. —
IRON RARELY FOUND AMONG THE EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. — WOR
SHIP OP TREES BY THE SHILLUKS : THEIR RELIGIOUS RITES. —
STARS IN THE SOUTHERN REGIONS OF AFRICA. — SHILLUK WOMEN :
THEIR DRESS. — REFUSAL OP THE MEN TO SELL THEIR ARMS. — THE
BAGHARAS: THEIR DRESS, ETC. — RE- APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND-
PARKS, AND MOUNT DEFAFACNGH. — ASCENT OF THIS MOUNTAIN,
AND FULL DESCRIPTION OF IT. — THE DINKAS : THEIR LOVE FOR
OLD CUSTOMS. — DESERTION OF TWO DINKA SOLDIERS, AND REFUSAL
OF THEIR COUNTRYMEN TO GIVE THEM UP. — SHEIKHS SEIZED, AND
DESERTERS RECOVERED. ...... 280

CHAPTER XII.
LANDING IN THE TERRITORY OF THE BAGHARAS I DESCRIPTION
OF THEM : THEIR HOSTILITY TO THE DINKAS, AND MARAUDING
EXCURSIONS INTO THE COUNTRY OF THIS TRIBE. — CURIOUS POSITION
IN WHICH THE LATTER TRIBE STAND. — MOUNT N'JEMATI : EXAMI
NATION OP IT  A SHRUB- AOAOIA. — APPEARANCE OF ELEPHANTS
AND LIONS. — GEOLOGICAL DESCRIPTION OP THE MOUNTAINS. — MON
KEYS APPEAR AGAIN.  MOHAMMED ALI UNDER THE FORM OF AN
HIPPOPOTAMUS. — ISLAND OF ABU. — THE HASSARIES. — A HIPPOPO
TAMUS KILLED BY SULIMAN KASHEP  SHORES OP THE NILE COM
PARED TO THOSE OP THE MISSISSIPPI. — EL AES. — THE KABBABISH
ARABS.  HEDJASI. — THE MOUNTAIN GROUP OP ARASKOLL. — CONDUCT
OP SULIMAN KASHEP TO A SHIEKH AND ARABS.  BEST WAY TO
TREAT THE TURKS. — THE DOWNS : THEIR NATURE.  INTELLIGENCE
OP THE DEATH OF SOLIMAN EFFENDI AND VAISSIERE.  APPROACH
TO KHARTUM.  ARRIVAL, AND MEETING OP OUR AUTHOR WITH HIS
BROTHER. — CONCLUSION. ......

309

EXPEDITION
TO DISCOVER THE SOURCES
OF THE
WHITE NILE.

CHAPTER I.
SLEEPING TOKULS OR BARNS.  CRUELTY AND LICENTIOUSNESS OP THE
TURKS. — ARNAUD AND SELIM CAPITAN'S PEAR OP THE NATIVES. 
NEGROES SHOT BY THE TURKS. — CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES.  RED
MEN.  ARNAUD 'S MADNESS.  FEAR OE THE NEGROES AT FIRE-ARMS.
— VISIT OP A CHIEF AND HIS SON. — TOBACCO AND SHEEP. — MOUNT
KOREK. — NATION OF BARI. — VISIT OP THE BROTHER AND SON-IN-
LAW OP THE KING. — CHAIN OP MOUNTAINS.
20th January. — The vessels were towed further
to the southward hy the Libahn, whilst the com
manders, and we Franks with them, walked on the
magnificent shore. The wind, with which, however,
we had previously sailed, although not quicker than
the pace we walked at on shore, freshened at ten
o'clock, and we repaired again on board the vessels.
I had made a real forced march, and was at last
compelled to be carried, owing to increasing weak
VOL. II. b

2 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
ness. Little villages and isolated tokuls stood in the
beautiful woody country, which is interspersed with
solitary light spaces or corn-fields, where, however, the
short fine grass was withered. These tokuls are
elevated above the ground on stakes, and serve to pro
tect the fruits, or as sleeping-places for security against
noxious animals or the temporary damp of the soil.
The natives dance, sing, and jump, slide on their
knees, sell or exchange their god (glass beads — Arabic,
sug-sug), amongst one another, and squat, but not
by sitting upright in the Turkish manner, and smoke
their pipes. These pipes have prettily-worked black
clay bowls, with a tube of reeds, and a long iron
mouthpiece : even the tongs, to apply the charcoal to
light them, are not wanting. They are cheated in the
most shameful manner by the Turco- Arabian people ;
robbed of their weapons, and plundered right and left.
What am I to do ? I am ill, and have lost my voice ;
yet I try to prevent these outrages as far as I am
able. The so-called elephant-tree prevails here exclu
sively ; and one of the chief amusements this morning
was to shoot down its fruit, in which exploit Suliman
Kashef distinguished himself as the best shot. The
shady trees, the prospect on the river, enlivened by
the glittering sails, the blue chain of mountains — it
was a sight that did me good, and refreshed my
inmost soul. But all this was again clouded by
Turks. Is there another word for Turks ? No :
Turks, — lasta ! A negro, who came from the other
side to swim over to us, got into the track of the sail
ing vessels, and was drowned, although he might have
been easily picked up by two ships following us. The

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 3
commanders had gone on a-head, and I was behind with
the Frenchmen ; I was not able to call, and therefore
fired off my gun, in order, by signs, to induce them
to save him. Arnaud also, whose vessel was just
bearing up, might have easily prevented the death of
the unfortunate creature if he had given a hail to
his reis. He even blamed my impatience, saying
I was ill ; and added, with the contemptuous tone, in
which the Arab pronounces his " Abit," and the Turk
his " kia.fr," " Why do the fellows swim about in the
water?" Upon this I could not forbear using hard
words. An Egyptian soldier, who, like some others of the
libahn, had remained behind on shore to ransack
the deserted tokuls, ran behind a young naked
girl, when I fortunately noticed the circumstance in
our walk. I hastened to Suliman Kashef, who was
gallant enough to recall, with a voice of command, the-
libertine from this his wicked purpose.
The Turkish character involuntarily shews itself on
such occasions as these ; it goes against his grain to
see an inferior enjoying any pleasure. There was no
merit, therefore, in Suliman's conduct, even had he
warded off from us a Sicilian vespers. Thibaut had
had also a similar incident on board his vessel with
the reis, who wanted to be too free with a young
girl whom the former, during this voyage, had
purchased for a few glass beads, — I believe from the
Keks. This incident was also announced in due form
by us ; but they laughed, and said, " Baden " (after
wards), and Arnaud even joined in this opinion.
At a quarter past ten o'clock, the north wind has
completely died away, and we tack about towards the
B 2

4 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
west for a short tract, when it becomes again so fresh,
whilst the wind is S.W., that we are able to sail
slowly. To all appearance, unfortunately, our vaunted
voyage of discovery will soon have an end. Selim-
Capitan is frightened to a ludicrous degree ; Arnaud
cannot conceal his fear; and Suliman Kashef, not
being yet restored to health, is utterly indifferent.
I cannot refrain from considering an instant return
as a disgrace and as treachery both to the world
and Mohammed Ali. On the right an island, and
the last of those two which we had on our left
still continues, and so we are somewhat free from the
noise of the people on the shore. Sale and Sate
Mohammed are no longer seen on land ; they have
perhaps become the victims of their passions, although
they were only to shoot for me a pair of turtle
doves. We halt, for a time, on the left shore, where there is
a large village, . partly scattered in the wood that skirts
the river so beautifully. At eleven o'clock we set out
again, and our men drive back the cattle from the
island close to us, through the water to the right
shore, for their unfathomable throats appear at last to
be satiated. The clapping of hands, keeping time to
the singing, above which the " kih, kih " of the women
is heard, accompanies us from both sides. We cannot
hear or see anything for the crowd and clatter, especi
ally myself, round whom all the beautiful world floats
as in a mist, and a jarring din sings in my ears, so
that my writing, inexorably necessary as it is, be
comes exceedingly difficult. I dared not close my
eyes for fear of becoming completely confused. I
wanted to go to Selim Capitan, or rather to his inter-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 5
preter, but was not able to put the requisite questions
and to note down the answers. 1 continue to write
mechanically, and cannot square my own journal,
when I try to revise the entries ofthe last few days;
for everything flickers before my eyes, and my me
mory is gone, so that it all appears to me like a
dream. With a light north-east wind, which also assisted
us yesterday, we proceed S.S.W. It is noon, and we
have two islands, lying close to each other, on our left.
A large island ends on our right, and another one
begins, by which the course in the middle of the
river is, in some degree, confined. Nevertheless, the
river always retains a considerable breadth, and
a proper depth ; and then, — will the poltroons return ?
The mountain, already several times mentioned, peeps
into the window from the west ; it shews itself as two
mountains lying one close to the other, the western
of which rises conically,"and has an obtuse peak, and
an undulating tail to the west. The latter appears
somewhat wooded, yet these masses giving light and
shade may be mostly blocks ; the conically ascending
mountain, on the contrary, has a smooth surface, and
may be an extinguished volcano, although one would
not expect to find such here. We now find, for the
first time, stones in the river, and they are granite and
gneiss. They are not yet rounded ; the chain of
mountain^ from whence they come cannot, therefore,
be very far distant. We proceed S.S.W. An
island terminates on the left, and another follows at
the distance of some hundred paces.
Four o'clock. S. W. An occurrence has just
happened, which might be the death of us all if

b EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
anything were to be feared from the revenge of
these evidently good-natured people. We were on
the right side of the river, and went to the left,
where the little sandal was towed not far from us
by the Libahn. Natives had stationed themselves
here in large and small groups ; they greeted us,
held up their hands, pointed to their necks for beads,
and sang, danced, and jumped. There was no end
of laughing in our vessel ; I was attentive to what
was going on, and saw that the natives had seized
the rope of the sandal, and would not let it be towed
further, for they wanted beads. Probably the crew
of the sandal had taken weapons or ornaments from
them, without giving anything in return, as this
frequently happened. We steered close to the left
shore to assist our men, when eight bold armed
figures advanced towards us, and gave us to under
stand by pantomimic signs, that we had presented
beads to their neighbours below, but would not give
them anything. They offered the rings on their
arms, and their weapons, and signified to us, as we
were advancing libahn, on account of the faintness
of the wind, that they would not allow us to tow
any further unless we gave them something. They
said all this, however, with a laughing countenance,
jumped about, and laughed anew. It was plain they
were only in jest ; but our bloodthirsty fellows, seeing
no danger in this small number of men, and never
thinking of the probable consequences, just like the
Turks, considered this an excellent opportunity to
display their courage. They seized their weapons. I
was unwell, but yet was standing on deck, and kept
order as well as my weak voice would allow me. I

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 7
went from one to the other, and enjoined them not
to fire, until arrows were first shot at them. The
black soldiers, who were mostly recruits, I admonished
especially not to bejilles de joie (the usual expression
here applied to those who exhibit fear in discharging
their guns), but men (rigal, sing, ragel), to grasp the
gun firmly, and to take good aim. Our blacks are
generally very much afraid of the report of guns, and
do exactly as the Greeks did at the commencement
of their war for freedom ; they lay the butt- end on
the thigh, and fire at random. On the White River,
also, the report of these unknown weapons was more
feared than the real danger itself. They listened to
me ; but then came the vessel of Captain Mohammed
Aga, a fool-hardy Arnaut, who is always trying to
distinguish himself in some way or another. He
shouted to the sandal to cut away the rope, although
the men were still on land. This was about to be
done, when the tallest negro, who had twisted the
rope round a little tree, pointed his bow at the sailor
who was about to cut it through with his knife.
He laughed at the same time, and it was clear
that he was not in earnest ; for he had wrestled
in a friendly manner with the other sailors, when
they tried to get the rope from him, without making
use of his weapons^ Yet the Arnaut commanded
them to " fire," whilst he had already aimed at the in
cautious native, being the first to discharge his piece.
In a moment all three vessels fired away, as though
they were beset by the devil. I was only able to
pull back a couple of fellows whose guns had flashed
in the pan. Eleven or twelve other victims followed
the first, who was knocked over by the captain's shot.

8 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Those who went away wounded were not counted.
An old woman was shot down by an Egyptian
standing near me, and yet he boasted of this heroic
deed, as did all the others of theirs. There might
have been from twenty-five to thirty natives collected
together at that place, scarcely thirty paces from us,
and the high-standing straw might have concealed
several more.
We sailed away with the wind favouring our
criminal action, for our men had again come on board
before the firing commenced. The Dahabies sail
ing ahead of us must have heard our shots ; they did
not however furl one sail to lend us assistance, which
might have been eventually necessary. Before we
caught up these vessels, we saw a woman on the
shore, looking about among the dead men, and then
afterwards running to the city at some distance from
the shore. The natives were hastening towards it, but
they did not trust themselves near us. Yet they knew
not the melancholy truth that our shots would hit at a
distance ; hitherto they feared only the thunder and
lightning of them, as we had seen several times. We
halted a moment ; the unhappy creatures or relatives
of the slain came closer to the border of the shore,
laid their hands flat together, raised them above their
head, slid upon their knees nearer to us, and; sprang
again high in the air, with their compressed hands
stretched aloft, as if to invoke the pity of heaven, and
to implore mercy of us. A slim young man was so
conspicuous by his passionate grief, that it cut to my
heart, and — our barbarians laughed with all their
might. This unbounded attachment to one another,
and the circumstance that that woman, in spite ofthe

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 9
danger so close at hand, sought for the man of her
heart among those who had perished, affected me
exceedingly, because such moral intrinsic worth, flow
ing from pure natural hearts, is unfortunately more
acquired than innate in civilised nations. We had
only advanced a little on our way, and above thirty
unarmed natives, who must yet at all events have
been informed of the tragical incident that had just
occurred, sat down on the sand directly close to the
river, without suspicion, or designing any harm to us,
as if nothing had taken place, and really — I had
enough to do to prevent their being shot at.
We reached the vessels of the commanders, and
Mohammed Aga was the first to hasten to them, in
order to report the incident. But I also drew near,
and there was a kind of court martial summoned.
Arnaud did honour to the European name, and took
the part of the Turks, who looked upon the whole as
a trifle. Finally, the Arnaut, who had already con
fessed the fact, faced about boldly and swift as
lightning, declaring that he had never fired a shot,
aud that he would bring witnesses to prove it, and
— here the matter ended. Selim Capitan thought he
shewed his wish to keep up a good understanding
with the natives, by throwing into the grass on the
shore some miserable bits of glass paste, with a cup.
The natives looked and groped about, whilst we sailed
to the neighbouring island. Here we found two
divisions of negroes, whose chiefs were also presented
with strings of beads. Again we threw beads among
the grass, and ordered the whole occurrence to be ex
plained by the interpreters ; more beads, and — every
one jumped forward delighted. One of these chiefs
b 5

10 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
had all his naked body streaked over with ochre :
he looked like the black huntsman of Bohemia.
They are said to do this in particular when they
marry ; we have seen already several such red men ;
even the hair and the ivory bracelets which are thick
and of a hand's breadth, as well as the numerous iron
rings on the wrists and ankles, are coloured red in
this fashion. Rage and vexation, together with the
heat of the sun, compelled me to be carried back
quite exhausted down the shore to the vessel.
Thibaut and Sabatier disclosed to me, as usual,
their vexation at Arnaud's assuming conduct, and how
they are cut up and calumniated in his journal, which
they secretly read, without being able to call him to
account for it at the moment. So likewise I am
obliged to listen to the loud lamentations of his servant
Mustapha, a Maltese renegade, who always ends
with " Credo che sia mezzo matto quest gran signore
o baron fututto." Although he looks very fierce, yet
he cannot renounce his nature as a tailor, and is
continually asking me whether we are in any danger
and begs me, for the holy Madonna's sake, to take
care that we return as speedily as possible, for he
Would rather a thousand times live with his devil of a
wife, than venture again so far among the heathens.
Arnaud is jealous at Suliman Kashef having purchased
a young girl with his beads, and by the assistance of
Duschoil, the interpreter, prettier than his little sailor's
trull, whom he has hung with glass beads from head
to foot. In a fit of madness be writes a long French
letter to the Kashef, summoning him to restore the
girl immediately, although we are already a long way
from her people. Thibaut translates the letter, and

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 11
looks as if he had fallen from the clouds, for he is in
the very same boat with Arnaud himself, respecting
the purchase of a girl, that he is going to make a
living present to his black Sara, whom he brought
back from England to Khartum. After the letter
was read aloud, a rude burst of laughter naturally
ensued, and Suliman Kashef said when it was finished,
in a pitying tone of voice, " El shems, el shems !"
(the sun, the sun.) Certainly it is not the first time
that the African sun has produced such an effect
on Arnaud ; he suffers like all of us, and his arro
gance and pride shake him more violently, because
they find opposition on every side.
2lst January. I this morning felt myself un
commonly well but had scarcely stepped out of the
door to go ashore, when the stream of light — I know
not what other name to give it — rushed upon me with
such force, and penetrated, as it were, through me,
that I was scarcely able to sink back on my bed ;
and it is only now, when, however, the sun is at its
height, that I feel myself at all capable of writing.
We have remained since early this morning, in a
southerly direction. The sails have been twice
hoisted, but on the average we are towed by the
rope. We leave an island on our right. There are
several red skins among the negroes, who are really
handsome men ; the tokuls, standing singly, are large,
well roofed, and, resting upon strong stakes, open on
all sides. The stakes form a peristyle, and the inner
wall is smeared inside with clay ; perhaps they serve
as stables for cattle, and summer tokuls. A small
gohr, or river, in the neighbourhood of which we
repose at noon, comes merrily in from the right shore,

12 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
and the stream has a noble breadth, but little depth
of water. Two o'clock, S.W. We have a slight north
wind, and an island on our right ; -behind it, the forest
continues on the shore. The high mountainous dis
trict beyond it is still blue, for the day is not clear.
It appears, indeed, partly covered with wood, and to
form a chain with the other mountains. The infor
mation we possess about this region is still very scanty,
and it would be difficult to make any thing out of the
interpreters, even if my head were less affected.
Groups of a hundred and fifty to two hundred negroes
are standing together on all sides ; they generally ac
company us a short way, without uniting themselves
to the next swarm. This perhaps arises more from
accident than for the purpose of keeping their boun
dary stations on the water, to prevent falling together
by the ears, whilst watering their herds, and on
other occasions. Islands impede our course, and the
crew see, to their terror, a number of natives, holding
their weapons aloft, wade through the river from
one side to the other. We immediately take pos
session of a little islet in the middle of the river, and
surround it with our vessels ; a regular military posi
tion, for it is surrounded with deeper water. It is
about a hundred paces long from north to south, and
from five to six broad, and the shores fall away
steeply to the river.
Feizulla Capitan disembarks, and returns soon from
Selim Capitan, with the melancholy intelligence that
there is " moje mafish," (no water). I was com
pletely in despair, left the vessel, and set off to the
top of the islet, where Turks and Franks -were

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. IS
assembled for further consultation. The black people
found on it were driven away by us ; they jumped
into the water like frogs, so that we heard a simul
taneous fearful splash. They soon stood on the more
shallow ground, and shouted their huzza, " Hui, ii
hui iih ! " laughed and joked, and offered their valu-r
ables, &c. We let some of the negroes come on the
islet, and gave them presents of beads. About even
ing a large herd of cows appeared on the right shore ;
they were lean, possibly having been long in want
of fresh grass. The men, armed with spears, bows,
and arrows, drove the herds from the right to the left
shore, where we likewise remarked a herd of cattle.
Our gentlemen were horribly afraid when the people
accumulated like a black swarm of bees on all sides.
It was a lucky circumstance that a large bird of
prey perched on the mast, to take a view aloft of
the flesh under him. All eyes were directed to us
and this bird, when Suliman Kashef seized his long
gun ; the blacks watched us closely, jostled each
other, and were on tenter-hooks of anxiety, for they
did not know what it meant. Suliman Kashef fired ;
the report set them in momentary fear, and they
were about to run away, when the sight of the bird
falling into the water, noted them, as it were, to the
ground. When, however, other birds of prey flew
down on the water, to see what fate had befallen
their feathered friend, the " Hui, ii hui iih," imme
diately came to a close ; they ran as fast as they
could, for this appeared too much for them to stand,
having seen no arrow or stone flying at the bird.
This single shot might be of importance at this
moment, when the people generally, though at a

14 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
distance, might have shewn a bad feeling ; moreover
the incident was of inestimable value to the expe
dition, because it infused the feeling of our superiority,
and even enhanced it, in their dismayed hearts. If
I had previously strained every nerve to prevent the
return already determined upon, and had got the
again-convalescent Kashef on my side, so now even
the timorous Selim Capitan was inclined to have the
track more accurately examined.
22nd January. — There was not a breath of wind,
and it is still undetermined whether we shall proceed
further. I therefore proposed to the Frenchmen,
whose courage I could naturally have no doubt of, to
take out some of the freight from their vessel, which
is lightly built and convenient, and thus to press on
further. They agreed to this proposal. I described
the country, and we were having breakfast together,
when intelligence was brought to us that it was
decided to go on. No sooner does Selim Capitan see
the long-legged blacks going to their cattle, swimming
over to the right shore, than fear seizes him anew ;
we, however, by our joint efforts, manage to remove
it. In the meanwhile, the chief of this country comes
to us with his grown-up son. A red cloth dress of
honour is put on the old man ; a red chequered
cotton handkerchief tied round his head ; and glass
beads are hung round his neck. They also gave the
son beads, and bound a piece of calico round him like
a napkin. It was plain to be seen that they were
delighted with these presents, and particularly at the
pleasure of conversing and communicating with us.
The old man's name is Nalewadtshbhn, his son's

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 15
Alumleh ; but their great Matta (king or lord, per
haps analogous to the title of honour previously con
ferred on us, "Madam,)" is called Lakono. The
latter is said to possess a beautiful red woollen dress,
of a different cut to the Abbaie, presented to Nale-
wadtshbhn. It must be truly interesting to see here,
all of a sudden, a negro king in an English uniform,
although it may only come from the Ethiopian sea, or
the Indian Ocean. Sultan Lakono dwells on Mount
Pelenja, and rules over a large country, called Bari,
pronounced by the Turks, however, without further
ceremony, Beri. We are said to have been within
the limits of this kingdom for the last two days:
those men shot by us belonged also to Bari.
According to Nalewadtshbhn, who is in general
very talkative, and does not appear very favourably
inclined towards his king, all the mountains in the
neighbourhood have abundance of iron ; and Mount
Pelenja, a quantity of copper, which is here in great
estimation. Iron -ochre, which the natives here and
there use to colour themselves with, is said to be
found on all sides, formed by them, however, into
balls : by this preparation, perhaps, a cleansing of
the material takes place. The high mountain-chain
we had already seen, lies to the west, at some
hours' distance, over the left shore of the Nile. Its
name is Niakanja, and the mountains before us are
called Korek and Lubehk, which are said to be fol
lowed by many other higher mountains. Both the
men are strikingly handsome, although not one of the
whole multitude can be called ugly. They are tall and
strongly built ; have a nose, somewhat broad indeed,
but not flat ; on the contrary, slightly raised, such as

16 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
we see in the heads of Rhamses ; a full mouth, not
at all like that of negroes, but exactly the same as in
the Egyptian statues ; a broad arched forehead, and
a speaking, honest-looking eye. The latter is not, as
we have found generally in the marsh regions, entirely
suffused with blood, whereby the countenances have a
dismal appearance, but clear, full, and black, yet not
dazzling. We observed that their legs were well
formed, though not muscular; their naked bodies
were adorned with the very same decorations of ivory
and iron as we had seen in the others. The name of
the village on the right side of the river is Barako ;
the village lying immediately opposite, under the
trees, before which are a small island and pastures,
is called Niowah. Alumbeh was sent as our envoy to
King Lakono.
We leave our island at noon, and have a larger
island on our right, a smaller one on the left, and tow
to the south, accompanied by the negroes in the
water : they even come with their long bodies to the
side of the vessel, and part with every thing they
have for the beloved sug-sug.
At Asser (three o'clock in the afternoon), S.S.W.,
with oars and sails. A village, on the right side of
the river, contains only a few tokuls ; but a large herd
of cattle, grazing there, sets our crew longing again.
About sun-set, S. I procure a beautiful spear for a
single glass bead — silly, childish people ! Imme
diately after sun-set, W.S.W. On the left a small
island ; a gohr, or arm of a river, appearing to form
a large island, pours forth from thence, if it be not
a tributary stream. The wood before us contrasts
by its dark hue with the coloured horizon, over which,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 17
as yet, no alpine country glows. On the right shore
stana a number of armed ahd laughing negroes, in
picturesque positions; this has been the case the
whole time, both in the water and on land. They
walk arm-in-arm, quite in a brotherly manner, pr
with their arms round one another's necks, as the
students in Germany used to do in my time.
They help each other in getting up on shore, and
have frequently one foot placed firmly agamst the
knee, standing like cranes. They lean on their
spears, or long bows, or squat down ; but I see none
of them sitting or lying on the ground, according to
the lazy custom of the orientals.
The north wind is so faint that we are obliged to
lend assistance with poles ; the river has more water,
thank God, than we thought ; and even our reis,
whom a longing fit for his wives .every now and then
seizes, believes that this water-course will hold on for
some time. We anchor in the middle of the river,
and the guards are doubled in the vessels. I am
tired of this constant variety of sensations, and yet
would like to see and hear much more. My head is
so heavy and stupid, that I cannot accept Suliman
Kashef s invitation.
23rd January. — Half-past eight o'clock. We have
gone so far in a southerly direction by the rope, and
we move S. by W. and S.W. The rapidity of the
river has increased from one mile and a half to two
miles. The walk on shore has tired me more,
because I was followed by the natives, with all their
effects, and retarded, so that I was obliged to break a
road through them, half by violence, though I am
still very weak in my legs. I purchased for a couple

18 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
of miserable beads a little sheep, covered partly with
wool, and partly with hair, as the sheep here gene
rally are, and having a long mane under the throat,
and horns twisted back. Selim Capitan says that a
similar species is found in Crete.
Tobacco is called here also tabac, as mostly on
the White River. The Arabs give it the name of
dogahn; this is the small-leaved sort, with dun-
coloured flowers, which is cultivated likewise in Bellet
Sudan. I have not seen the tobacco-plant growing
wild here ; therefore, I cannot say whether the name
of tobacco is indigenous here with the plant, or has
been introduced by immigrants. Nevertheless, the
Arabs are not generally smokers, and it is unlikely
that tobacco was brought in by them ; and it is less
probable, because, had it been so, it would have kept
the name of dogahn. In Sennaar, however, a good
but very strong tobacco has been cultivated for ages,
and was probably introduced by the Funghs, who
are likewise a well-formed negro race. Our usual
title of honour is matta, which they, however, only
give to the whites. The shores are very extensively
intersected with layers of sand.
Ten o'clock. S. by E., and then S. W. Two vil
lages on the right shore. We sail with a slight north
wind, but scarcely make one mile, for the current is
considerably against us. We meet continually with
some fire-eaters among the blacks on the shore; they
are startled, certainly, at the report, but are not par
ticularly frightened, especially if it be not close to
their ears. We have Mount Korek in a south
westerly direction before us. It stands like the
Niakanja, to which we have only come within the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 19
distance of from three to four hours, and which lies
behind us, isolated from the other mountains. The
summit appears flat from where we are ; it has many
indentations, and seems to rise only about six hundred
feet above its broad basis, to which the ground
aseends from the river. The wind having nearly
ceased for half an hour, freshens again for three
miles. At noon. S.S.W. In a quarter of an hour, a
gohr or arm of the Nile comes from S. by E. ; we
make only two miles more, and the wind deserts us
again ; we lie, therefore, as if stuck to the place,
after having been thrown by the current on to the
island, formed by the before-named arm on the right
shore. But the wind soon freshens again ; we sail
away cheerfully. The ships drive one against the
other, or upon the sand, but work themselves loose
again ; the negroes come in the water ; confusion
here — confusion everywhere. A herd of calves stop
in the water before us ; this is really tempting, but we
sail on. The log gives four miles, from which two
miles must be deducted for the rapidity of the cur
rent, though the reis can not understand this.
At half-past twelve o'clock, the end of the island ;
we sail S.S.E., and then S. by W. On the right
shore a large durra-field, apparently the second crop
on the very same stalks. The natives there, accord
ing to the custom of this country, have little stools to
sit on, and a small gourd drinking-cup by their side.
As before, part of them are unarmed, and have
merely a long stick, with forks or horns at the top,
in their hands. The covering of the head is various.
Several have differently formed little wicker baskets

20 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
on their heads, as a protection against the sun. They
wear strings of the teeth of dogs or apes on various
parts of the body, but mostly on the neck, as an
ornament or talisman. They have bracelets, the
points of which being covered with bits of fur, are
curved outwards like little horns. Our envoy
Alumbeh imitated all the motions and the voice of
an ox, in order to make us understand the meaning
of these bracelets. These, as well as the forks on
their houses and sticks, appear to denote in some way
a kind of symbolic veneration for the bull, whose
horns I had previously seen adorned with animals'-
tails ; for the bull is bold, and the support of the
family among the herds.
One o'clock. A number of negroes are squatting
on the island at the left, or rather are sitting on their
stools, and wondering at us sailing so merrily to
S.S.W. I count eleven villages ; but I do not trust
myself on deck, for we have 30° Reaumur. About
evening the whole scene will appear more surprising
and pleasing to me ; for even my servants, looking in
exultingly at the window, praise the beauty of the
country. On all sides, therefore, plenty of moun
tains, stones, and rocks ; the great buildings in the
interior of Africa are no longer a fable to me ! If the
nation of Bari has had internal strength enough to
pursue the road of cultivation for thousands of years,
what has prevented it not only from rising from its
natural state, but also from appropriating to itself
the higher European cultivation? It has a stream,
navigable, and bringing fertility, full of eatable
animals ; a magnificent land affording it everything :
it has to sustain war with the gigantic monsters of the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 21
land and water, and to combat with its own kind ;
it possesses the best of all metals, iron, from which
it. understands how to form very handsome weapons
sought for far and near ; it knows how to cultivate
its fields ; and I saw several times how the young
tpbacco plants were moistened with water, and pro
tected from the sun by a roof of shrubs. The men
of nature it contains are tall, and enjoying all bodily
advantages ; yet — it has only arrived at this grade of
cultivation, If the perfectibility of nature be so
confined, this truly susceptible people only requires
an exte.rnal intellectual impetus to regenerate the
mythic fame of the Ethiopians.
The hygrometer seems to have got out of order
through Arnaud's clumsy handling, for it yesterday
morning shewed 82°, notwithstanding the air is far
drier and clearer than this height of the hygrometer
would shew. Half-past ten o'clock. We are driven
on the sand, and there we stop to wait for the other
vessels. Alas ! the beautiful wind ! Two o'clock.
We sail on southwards. On the right two islands.
Selim Capitan is said to have the Sultan's brother on
board his vessel ; we are making every exertion,
therefore, to overtake him. The commander no sooner
remarks this than he halts at the nearest island. I
repaired immediately to his vessel, and found two
relations of King Lakono on board. Half-past two
o'clock. We leave the island and the previous direc
tion of S. S.W., and approach the right shore of the
river E. S. E. On the right a gohr, or arm of the
Nile, appears to come from S.W., and indeed from
Mount Korek, or Koreg, as the word is also pro
nounced-

22 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
The two distinguished guests sit upon their stools,
which they brought with them, with their own royal
hands, in naked innocence, and smoke their pipes quite
delighted. An arm of the river leaves on the left
hand the main stream to the north, and may be con
nected with a gohr previously seen. A village stands
above the arm of the river on the right shore of our
stream, and an island is immediately under it before
the gohr itself. The name of the village is Ullibari,
and the arm Beregenn. It is said to flow down a
very great distance before it again joins the White
Stream. The latter winds here to the south ; to the
right we perceive a village on the left shore, called
Igah. On the right shore we remark several villages,
and those summer huts, or rekilbas, already mentioned.
All the tokuls have higher-pointed roofs, of a tent-like
form. The country generally, in the neighbourhood
of the residence of the great Negro- King, appears very
populous. The north wind is favourable. The black
princes look at the sails, and seem to understand the
thing, although the whole must appear colossal to
them in comparison with their surtuks, as we perceive
from their mutually drawing each other's attention to
them. The king's brother, whose name is Nikelo,
has a friendly-looking countenance ; and his handsome
Roman-like head, with the tolerably long curled hair,
is encircled with a strip of fur instead of the laurel.
On the right he wears a yellow copper, on the left
a red copper bracelet. The latter might have been
easily taken for an alloy of gold, although the noble
man did not know the gold which was shewn him as
being of higher value, but distinguished that it was a
different metal. Silver he did not know at all. These

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 23
mountains being rich in metals, must afford very in
teresting results with respect to the precious metals.
The other guest is called Tombe : he is the son-in-
law of the king ; stronger and taller than Nikelb, and
always cheerful.
W^e landed soon afterwards on the right shore, as
the nearest landing-place to the capital, Belenja, on
the mountain of the same name, which was at some
distance. They gave us the names of all the moun
tains lying around in the horizon. The river flows
here from S.S.W., or rather the right shore has this
direction. To N. by W. Mount Nerkonji, previously
mentioned as Niakanja, long seen by us ; to W. by
S#> Mount Konnobih ; behind it, in the far distance,
the mountain-chain of Kugelii ; to S.W., the rocky
mountain, Korek; behind which the before-named
mountain- chain still extends, and is lost in misty
heights. These do not appear, indeed, to be of much
greater height; but on a more accurate observation, I
distinguished a thin veil, apparently sunk upon them,
clearer than the western horizon, and the blue of the
mountain forms vanishing from Kugelii to the south.
As I once looked for the alpine world from Mont-
pellier, and found it, trusting to my good eye-sight,
so now I gazed for a long time on this region of
heights ; their peaks were clearly hung round with a
girdle of clouds, apparently shining with a glimmering
light in opposition to the clouds hanging before them
in our neighbourhood. When I view the long undu
lating chain of Kugelii, distant at all events, taking
into consideration the clear atmosphere, more than
twenty hours behind Konnobih (some twelve hours
off), the highest summit of which, west by south,

24 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
without losing its horizontal ridge, disappears first
evidently in the west, and is completely veiled behind
Korek lying nearer over south-west, I conceive that
this Kugelii well deserves the name of a chain of
mountains, even if we only take the enormous angle
of the parallax at twenty hours' distance.
These mountains lie, to all external appearance,
upon the left side of the river, and Nikelb also con
firms this. On the right side ofthe Nile, we see the low
double rocks of Lululi to S.S.E., and a little further
to S.E. by S., the two low mountains or hills of
Lienajihn and Konnofih lying together. To S.E.
Mount Korrejih, and then lastly to E. the moun
tain chain of Belenja, rising up in several peaks to a
tolerable height, but apparently scarcely elevated
more than 1000 feet-above the Nile. Far towards S.,
over the Lobek, I remarked from here several other
misty mountains, the names of which I would have
willingly learned, for I feared, and with justice, that
they would be invisible in advancing nearer under the
prominences of these African Alps. The royal
gentlemen, however, with whom we stood on an old
river bed of six feet high, were restless, and in a great
hurry to take home their presents of a red coat and
glass beads. The city is like all other villages, but
large : the king's palace consists of several straw
tokuls lying together, encompassed as usual with a
seriba ; this also Nalewadtshbn had told us. The
Ethiopian palaces, therefore, have not much to boast
of ; it is sufficient if the men in them be pleased and
happy, and not oppressed by the cares of government
and want of sustenance. The durra was also here,
as I had remarked in other places, either cut away, or

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 25
cropped before it became ripe by the cattle ; no matter,
. — it sprouted a second time, and promised a good
harvest, though only as yet about seven feet high. I
had seen it thrice as high in Taka, without the
people thinking even of cutting it down or mowing it.
Selim Capitan dares not trust the natives ; we went,
therefore, ashore at the island close at hand, fixed
stakes in the ground, and tied the vessels fast to
them.

VOL. II.

26 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

CHAPTER II.
RECEPTION OF ENVOYS PROM KING LAKONO. — DESCRIPTION OP THEM. —
RELIGION OF THE BARIS : THEIR ARMS AND ORNAMENTS  PANIC
CREATED AMONG THE NATIVES AT THE EXPLOSION OF CANNON. —
LIVELY SCENE ON SHORE. — COLOURED WOMEN.  ARRIVAL OF KING
LAKONO AND SUITE. — HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE COMMANDERS : HIS
DRESS. — THE NATIONAL MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS OF BARI.  PRESENTS
TO KING LAKONO AND HIS DEPARTURE.
24th January. — I repaired to Selim Capitan, to
be present at the reception of the Sultan Lakono.
He had sent two other envoys to announce to us that
he would come, and we were to wait a little. One of
these ambassadors was likewise a younger brother of
the king's, a real giant both in height and breadth,
and coloured red from head to foot ; there was not
even a single hair on the whole body of this Hercules
that was not red. His name is Dogale. Nikelb,
already known to us, returned also, but entirely in
his natural state, not having even one of the strings of
beads presented to him round his neck. The other
envoy, a relation of the king's, is called Betja.
Dogale lolls very comfortably on the carpet extended
before the cabin, supporting his long ribs on the little
stool placed under him. Favoured by nature in every
respect, he has regular features, and a good-tempered
though not intelligent countenance. All the questions
asked of these high and mighty lords were answered

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 27
with the greatest readiness. Sultan, or king, is called
in their language Matta, which means generally a
lord, but there is no other lord besides him. There
is no one in these countries equal to their Matta in
power and strength. The wofd Lakono was also
pronounced Lagono, for they frequently change h for g,
as well as p for b, vice versa, and they vary the fall
of the accent, for example, Belenja and Pelenja.
Lakono has forty wives and several children, amongst
them many grown-up sons. They shew us the
number, not by stretching out the fingers of both
hands, but by holding their clenched fist towards the
questioners, in order to express by that means the
number five or ten. Each of the brothers of the
king had six wives, and this appears to be their
usual appanage ; for the women are purchased, and
they are probably allowed a certain number of wives,
according to their station. A private man, such as
the sheikhs or chiefs of the community, has only
three ; the others have only one or two wives, exclusive
of the slaves taken in war or purchased, like the
male ones, for iron weapons. The latter, I learned
on my return to the country of the Bokos, down to
which place Lakono has navigated, for the purpose
of purchasing slaves, as thej- told us there.
We order the drum to be beat and the men to
pipe ; it was with difiiculty then that they could keep
their seats. They do not display any troublesome
prying spirit, or impertinent curiosity ; but they see
too much at once, the impression assails them too
powerfully on all sides. I gaze on these people, —
they are men like ourselves, but they are more bash
ful than we, — not, however, by any means ap-
c 2

28 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
proaching that timidity and helplessness which we
have perceived, for example, among the Keks. They
eat dates, almonds, and raisins, but do not snatch
them hastily or greedily. They take the tinned-
copper can (Brik) filled with water from the wash-
hand basin (Tisht), and drink directly from the
curved spout, after having lifted up the cover and
ascertained the contents ; yet they have never seen
such fruits and such a water-vessel. I observe them
in their mutual confidential conversation, perhaps
referring to us, — what do they think of us ? They
are not astonished at the white faces ; perhaps they
take them to be coloured, like their own bodies, for
our crew display all possible tints of flesh.
I am led to this latter supposition from a couple of
women having previously tried the skin on my face
with their wet fingers, to see if it were painted. The
features and form ofthe head are quite regular among
these gigantic people, and are a striking contrast to
those of our black soldiers, with their more negro-like
physiognomy, although tliey are not, on the whole,
ugly. I compare the true Caucasian races, who are
present, with these men, and find that the latter have
a broader forehead. The inhabitants of the kingdom
of Bari might be designated a protoplasma of the black
race ; for not only do they shoot up to a height of
from six and a half to seven Parisian feet,* which we
have seen also in the other nations, but their gigantic
mass of limbs are in the noblest proportions. The
form of the face is oval, the forehead arched, the nose
straight, or curved, with rather wide nostrils, — the
aise, however, not projecting disagreeably ; the mouth
* A Parisian or French foot is equal to 1*066 English (Transl.)

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 29
full, like that of the ancient Egyptians ; the orifice of
the ears large, and the temples a little depressed.
The last we do not find in the Barabras, and the
races akin to them in Abyssinia. The men of Bari
have, besides, well-proportioned legs, and muscular
arms. It is a pity that they also extract the four
lower incisors, for not only is the face disfigured by
this custom when they are laughing, but their pro
nunciation also becomes indistinct. They differ, more
over, from the nations hitherto seen by having no
holes in their ears for ornaments; and they do not
tattoo themselves. Yet I remarked some who had
incisions, as imaginary ornaments, on their shoulders :
such exceptions may originate from the mothers being
of another race. I have even seen , in the land of
Sudan instances of a twofold genealogical table in the
countenance, because the father and mother were of
different nations. There appears to be no national
custom with respect to wearing the hair long or short;
.but generally the hair is short, and not more woolly
than that of the. Barabras and Arabs. On some there
was none to be seen, and it appears either to be re
moved by a knife or a cauterising process, such as the
women in the harim use for other parts. Some
wear their hair like a cock's comb from the forehead
down to the nape of the neck ; others have scarcely
the crown of the head covered : the most, however,
wear tolerably long hair, in the natural manner, which
gives a significant look to many faces. Their good7
natured countenances correspond also to their jokes
among themselves, which are, perhaps, occasionally
directed against us. I have never been able to
discover in the whole journey their reverence for our

30 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
race and the god-like descent, much as this was as
serted by Thibaut, who was with the first expedition.
It does not appear, — at least, we could not make out
from them, — that they recognise one God as the
essence of all that is good and beautiful, who punishes
and rewards ; but neither do they worship idols, for
that, I believe, I have fully ascertained. They treat
one another with frank brotherly love, stand embrac
ing each other, divide the fruits given to them, assist
in embarking and disembarking from the vessels to
the shore ; and all this in an affectionate manner.
But yet they must have their peculiar ideas of friends
and enemies, of injuries and revenge, ahd be drawn
to commit acts, which we can scarcely imagine, when
we see such an apparently harmless people of nature.
Skill in arms, which is generally not to be despised,
$8 an accomplishment most desirable of all to a man
living in a state of nature. The first things he seeks
are weapons against the wild beasts ; the fist, there
fore, which Nature has given for seizing and striking,
is used for this purpose. The first weapon is the
«lub : even the poorest person here carries this in
strument of defence. Then man learns to know the dif
ferent arms of animals, — the eye, tooth, and the horn;
therefore, we see here some of the clubs pointed at
one end, in order to cut into the enemy's ribs in
case of necessity, directly the blow from it is parried
by the shield or casque. The stone, used by monkeys,
¦and especially by the large cynocephali, for defence,
as I was convinced, perforce, in the country of the
Troglodytes, among the rocks of Kaffela el Lus, and
which the modern Greeks are especially expert in
throwing, does not appear to be used here as an in-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 3.1
strument of warfare. Iron spears and darts did not
come till later, although they may have had them
long previously of wood, such as we see even now.
The most useful working implements, the knife,
hatchet, &c, are next introduced ; and from these
also other weapons originate ; the spear, not being
fixed firmly on the shaft, became used as a two-
edged knife, and the battle-axe might have followed
the hatchet.
To speak of religious principles among these people
would be out of place. Family love,- the mutual
living together, and the same customs and habits may
form the basis of their moral principles, and be the
first axiom of mutual forbearance. The first external
sight which might produce, if not astonishment, at
least a feeling of attachment and love, even to vene
ration, must be what makes a deep impression on the
soul : for example, the sun and moon ; or what gives
sustenance, as the corn, for instance ; or protection
and comfort, as the shady tree, &c. The moon is,
probably, in higher esteem here than the burning
sun, although the latter was certainly very agreeable
to the natives when they collected themselves before
daybreak on the shore, and stood each by his little
fire, kindled on account of the cold, and fed by the
reed-stalks growing between their extended legs. I
could not ascertain that there was such a veneration
for these two heavenly bodies, nevertheless I believe as
much from their expressions and narrations. Although
these were only repeated to us in a fragmentary
manner, and their explanation assisted by gestures,
yet they shew that valour, like the virtus of the
Romans, is the essence of all virtues, to which all

32 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
others, springing from their pure uncorrupted nature,
are subordinate.
The man wears the skin of the wild beasts he has
slain, not as a covering, but as an ornament and tri
umphant spoil. If it were not so hot here, he would,
like the ancient Germans, wear their scalp on his
head as a war-cap. He carries the daring weapon of
the wild boar killed by him — the tusk — upon a
bracelet or frontlet. I saw also some wearing on the
arm, as an ornament, an imitation of a boar's tusk,
made of ivory ; and, as already mentioned, they have
iron bulls' horns on their bracelets. As the heads of
these two animals so often appear as emblems in Ger*
man escutcheons, so here also they are less considered
as the memorials of dangers overcome than as signs
of reverence or esteem of this valiant beast. If the
rings with horns were more general, I should believe
that, as the men on the White Stream display an un
common love and affection for their cattle, they car
ried these horns, like the ancients did the phallus, as
the attribute of fertility, unless the custom here had
not the narrower signification of an Ethiopian Apis,
or Father of Cattle.
In the meanwhile about fifteen hundred negroes may
have. been collected on the shore, not including those
scattered on every side. They are armed without
exception, and indeed with all their weapons, — a sight
sending a thrill of horror through the veins of the
Frenchmen and Turks, which is shewn plainly enough
in various ways. They have only the consolation, and
this ought to have prevented them before from feeling
any fear at a danger not really existing — that we
have, in truth, the grandees of the kingdom on board

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 33
our vessels, and that they continue to be in the best
humour, and certainly have no evil design, for Nature's
stamp imprinted on the human countenance cannot
be deceptive here. Even Suliman Kashef has become
quiet, and is perhaps turning over in his mind how he
shall act in case of a sudden attack.
All the natives have set up their " hui ih ! " several
times, and at every time we stretch out our necks
towards the neighbouring shore to see what is going on.
This " hui ih " always resounds a tempo, as if at word
of command; there must be therefore an analogous
signal, though our ears cannot distinguish it over the
water. It is a cry of joy intended for their Matta.
We are still waiting for him, but in vain ; and in the
meantime we din the ears of our guests with drum
ming and fifing. They are also plied continually with
sweets. Again and again they enjoy them, and do
not prefer the sugar to the fruit, but eat slowly one
after the other, as if they had been accustomed to
them from youth upwards, and laugh and jest with
us. We hear from them that the kingdom of Bari
extends for four days' journey down the river ; that
the latter is called, in their language, Tubirih, and has
its origin at a long distance off, but they know not
whether from the mountains or the valley. There are
said to be several other nations on its shores, — a sign,
perhaps, of the considerable distance of its sources.
These tribes have also a different language, but there
is no matta so powerful as Lakono ; which saying,
since we have been in the kingdom of Bari, they are
never tired of repeating. The red Goliath lolls and
stretches himself in the most comfortable manner, and
the others also change their position from time to
c 5

34 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
time, and do not remain, like pagodas or the Egyptian
statues of kings, in tbe lazy repose called by the
Turks kew. Dogalb is pleased at being measured ;
he is six feet six inches, Parisian measure, in height,
with an unusual development in breadth, powerful
shoulders, and a chest that might be used as an anvil.
The two others, however, are not so large, although
far overtopping us. The large brass bells, brought by
us as presents for the cattle, pleased them very much,
and they give us plainly to understand that they can
hear the sound of such a bell at a distance.
We tell them that we want wood for our vessels ;
they shout to the people, hut the latter appear to
pay very little attention, or do not like to go away
from our vessels, keeping a sharp look out on them,
either from the interest of novelty, or in case of
any future danger to their men ; and perhaps, in this
respect, they are not armed in vain. When our
guests were repeatedly requested to procure wood,
they tell us to fire among the people, even if we
should kill a couple of men. They laugh whilst
saying this, and it really appears that they do not
believe in the possibility of shooting a man dead, and
only wish to frighten their people by the report.
They would have us, however, fire ; and Selim Capitan
therefore ordered his long gun to be handed him,
and fired in the air close to them ; they were
dreadfully startled by the report, but immediately
afterwards laughed, and wanted us to repeat it.
This was done. I should have liked to have made a
rough sketch of the group, but I was far too unwell,
and very thankful even that I was able to sit, and
write down on the spot what I heard and 3aw. A

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. §5
fine field was open here for a painter or sculptor ;
these colossal well-proportioned figures — no fat, all
muscle — so that it was delightful to look at them, with
the exception of the calves of their legs, which were
formed like lumps of flesh. No beard is developed
either in young or old, and yet it does not appear that
they use a cosmetic to extirpate it. If Selim Capitan
pleased them better with his smooth shaven chin,
than the long-bearded Suliman Kashef, yet they
exhibited a kind of horror when he shewed them his
hairy breast, which perhaps appeared to them more fit
for a beast than a man.
Therefore the supposition that they extract the
foutf lower incisors not to be similar to beasts, has at
least some apparent foundation, although the under
jaw does not project, and, consequently, the lips
are not made smaller by this extraction. Man here
is always indeed elevated far above the beast, and
needs, therefore, no sueh mutilation of the teeth.
Our Dinkas, who themselves want the four lower
incisors, have no other reason to allege for it, than
that they do it to avoid the similarity to a beast,
especially to the ass (Homar), as js the general
answer in Sennaar, to questions on this subject. The
Turks take it for a kind of circumcision, just as we
might suppose it meant a baptismal rite, being the
sign of an aet of incorporation by that means in
a vast Ethiopian nation, divided now into several
tribes. As this extraction of the teeth first takes
place in boyhood, it might be considered to denote the
commencement of manhood, and capability of bearing
arms; but I have never heard of the* ceremonies
which would necessarily, if that were the fact, take

36 EXPEDITION' TO DISCOVER THE
place on the occasion. There is also another objection
to this supposition, viz., — that a similar operation is
performed on the girls. With respect to the eyes,'
they are full and well formed, like those of all the
negroes of the White River, but with a dirty yellow
white, which, in the inhabitants of the marshes, is
generally suffused with blood in a shocking manner.
At last then it was determined to fire off a cannon,
to see what impression this thunder would make upon
them. They sat upright upon their stools — off went
the gun, and the princes nearly kissed the planks
on the opposite side, as if they had been felled
by a blow. They sat up, however, immediately
again, laughing loudly all the time, and wanted us to
fire again : their request was complied with, but
they crouched down low again to the side, were
uncommonly pleased, and requested one more repe
tition of this report. Not a negro, however, was to
be seen on all the shore ; and it was feared, with
justice, that the Sultan, who could not be far off,
might be struck by a panic and return : the firing
was therefore discontinued.
Intelligence arrives that King Lakono will be with
us about three o'clock in the afternoon ; whereupon
the blacks, being suitably clothed by us, and hung
round with strings of beads, took their leave with
the red Dogalfe, all except Lombe, who is one of the
king's subjects, and a sheikh in a neighbouring dis
trict down the river. The latter is a very sensible,
quiet man, with a more intellectual physiognomy than
the others ; the Turks give themselves all possible
trouble to obtain information from him about the
gold. He says that Mount Pelenja itself does

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 37
not contain copper ; that Lakono, however, has a
good deal of copper in his house, brought from other
mountains at a distance; that Lakono's dress also came
from this country, which is called Berri. Moreover,
he took the gold bar shewn to him for a different
species of copper ; and, as he does not know how
to distinguish gold, the latter may be found blended
with copper in the royal treasury, and the moun
tains of Berri may be auriferous. The population is
clearly very large, but he could not give us the
number. He named several districts, part of which
bore the names of the neighbouring mountains ; and
it almost seems to me as if there had been earlier
independent tribes, who were first suubdued by the
great Lakono. He does not appear either to be
a good royalist, and was evidently glad when the
king's sons had withdrawn ; he then put on a familiar
look, which their presence had hindered him from
doing previously. There seems to be no doubt that
this country is a central point of negro cultivation,
although Berri and other succeeding countries, may be
superior to the kingdom of Bari. I am curious
about the Sultan's dress. As Berri is said to lie
to the east, perhaps it was not made there, but
has come, by means of barter, from India. Lombe
also went away richly decorated (for the Turks
cannot contain themselves now at the idea of gold
El Dahab), in order, probably, to meet the Sultan,
or, perhaps, to get out of his sight with the treasures
he had acquired.
I returned to my house, or rather my ship, to take
my usual nap at noon ; but the right shore being close
at hand, separated only from our island by a narrow

38 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
canal, obliges me almost immediately to rise again.
The multifarious and manifold adorned and unadorned
people afford a pleasing sight as I look at them from
my windows. I view, as if from a box at the opera,
the stage of black life on the whole length of the
shore. Two women appear among the others ;
their anteriora and posteriora covered with two semi
circular leathern aprons, tanned red, according to the
usual custom here. One is coloured red from head
to foot ; the other has only her still youthful firm
breasts and her head of that hue. She looks, there
fore, as if she wore a black narrow jacket under the
breasts, and breeches of the same colour under the
red apron. She may have been surprised in her
toilette by the news of our arrival, and have run off
to the shore just as she was ; the whole lower part
of the body from the breasts downwards was tattooed
in the manner customary on the White River.
Buying and bartering are going on ; cheating and
robbing — the latter, however, only on our side. My
servants are on the shore, and making gestures and
signs with their fingers, to know what they shall
purchase for me of the national wares. I do not
bargain in person, for I am afraid of the sun. The
people, in spite of their good humour, are, as I
have convinced myself here, surprisingly mistrustful;
Goods and the price of their purchase, are exchanging
hands simultaneously. As the people transact but
little business among themselves, it is very natural
and right that they should exercise precaution in
their transactions with a foreign people like our
selves ; and it is certain that we have given the first
cause for suspicion.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 39
As I said before, the hair is generally kept short ;
they decorate it, for want of something better,
with a cock's or guinea-fowl's feather. A more
elaborate coiffure is of black ostrich-feathers, placed
together in a globular form, and the . lower ends
plaited, in a little basket, the thickness of a fist.
This tress-work, holding the feathers, stands on the
centre of the head, fastened by two strings round the
neck, and appears pretty generally worn. Prince
Dogale also wore one, but of somewhat larger size.
Some have their hair, which is tolerably long,
smeared so thick with ochre, that merely little tufts
are to be seen hanging about. Moreover, leather
caps, fitting exactly to the skull, were worn with
long or short tassels, hardly to be distinguished from
the coloured hair. This antique kind of covering for
the head, from which the Greeks and Romans formed
their helmets, is similar, as regards form, to the
modern fesi or tarhush and takie (the cotton
under-eap worn under the Turkish knitting-worsted
cap). They appear here to serve principally as a
protection against the sun. It was only with difficulty
that I could procure two different specimens, and the
sellers pointed quite dolefully to the hot sun, when
they bared their shaven heads.
Leathern strings, as also strings consisting of aglets,
strung in a row, not made, as I thought at first, of
conchylia, but ofthe shells of ostrich-eggs, were slung
round their hips. Several of the latter strings, which
are also much in request with the women in Belled
Sudan, and require laborious work, were purchased
by the crew, and I got, also, specimens, but they
were all, with one exception, immediately purloined.

40 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
To my great astonishment, I saw subsequently in the
Imperial Cabinet of Arts at Berlin, with which my
Ethnographical collection is incorporated, a string ex
actly similar, which Mr. Von Olfers had brought from
the Brazils. These strings wander, therefore, from
the north of Africa to the west coast of that part of
the globe, and from thence with the slaves to America,
in the same way as they come from the other side
to Sennaar by means of the slaves ; or it may be, that
they are made of the same size by the American
savages. If the former be the case, this single fact
would shew that there is a connection between the
country of Bari and the Atlantic Ocean. I was told
that the blacks break in pieces the ostrich-eggs, grind
the fragments on a stone to a circular form of about
two lines in diameter, and then string one lamina
after another on a thread, to the length of several
ells — a work which requires great patience. •
Sometimes from mere stupid wantonness, shots were
fired in the air from the vessels, and the natives disap
peared from the shore for a short time, but returned
directly that the report of the shots died away.
Several women now approached, part of them decked
with the before-named leathern apron, and part with a
rahat girded round their hips, as in the land of Sudan.
The threads hanging down from the girdle are not
narrow slips of leather, such as those in Sennaar, but
twisted cotton, and only the length of a finger. These
scarcely form in front a light thread apron of a span
in breadth, and leave the hips free, on which laces
with tassels and small iron chains hang down, and a
tuft falls down over the os sacrum, moving to and
fro when they walk like an animal's tail.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 41
Now I see that the women wish to paint them
selves, as I saw them before. There are two who
have coloured their nipples and navels to the size of
a dollar. The breasts are more rounded, and have
not that horizontal conical form found in the black
slaves of the land of Sudan.; I have already prer
viously remarked that the women on the White
Stream possess modesty in the concrete sense of the
word; and though part of them are young and
beautiful, but not tall, compared with the men, yet
they regard these naked and magnificent manly
forms without any immodest look ; so, likewise, the
men, kings of the world, gaze tranquilly upon the
women. I am fully persuaded that, where woman
bears in her mind the principle of the most necessary
covering, naked truth is exactly the thing to keep up
constantly a chaste as well as a decent relation be
tween the sexes. Only give these women the deceits
of the dress of European ladies, and clothe the men,
and we shall see what will become of the blameless
Ethiopians !
' I am the more desirous to see continual repetitions
ofthe sights peculiar to the land of Bari, because,
by the festive occasion of the royal visit, these are
multiplied in every form, and therefore 1 am still
acquiring much knowledge. The square shields,
about three feet long and two feet broad, with
scallopped edges projecting into four sharp points,
appear to be little used. They are of neat's hide,
and: have a stick badly fixed in the centre to hold
them by, the edge of which is not even turned to
give a firmer hold. They have blue and red stripes
crossed, each of a hand's breadth, as their external

42 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
decoration, and these are coloured with earth, so that
they are easily obliterated. The Frenchmen made
white stripes with chalk between these colours, and
•thus was the tricolour found in the middle of
Africa. Whether the blue and red streaks serve
as signs to distinguish one party from the other in
-warfare, I know not. Generally the men here carried
round, high-arched hand-shields, a foot in length,
made of very solid thick leather. These hand-
shields appear now, and perhaps exclusively, adapted
for warding off a blow with the clubs, for they, would
•probably be of little avail as a protection against
arrows and spears to such colossal bodies, in spite pf
all the dexterity of these men. Yet they gave me
to understand previously, that they warded off hos
tile spears by means of these shields. .
- The boar's tusks on the bracelets were mostly
imitations of ivory, and therefore like the small iron
bull's horns, are perhaps symbols of valour and the
power of nature. They had, besides, all kinds of knickr
knackeries on the arm and neck, such as little tor
toise-shells, dogs' or monkeys' teeth, entire strings
Pof which even they wear, pieces of bones, &c. It
(Struck me that little bones of this kind are either
remembrances or amulets, from the circumstance of
their always wishing to retain them when we had
already purchased the articles to which they were
fastened. The iron necklaces were of very difierent
kinds ; close to them were iron ornaments arranged in
a row, in the form of a narrow leaf, or in small open
spindles, from which little red fruits projected. 4
observed here also, the wide iron rings for the neck,
of the thickness of a finger, which reach over the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 43
head, and down to the middle of the breast, and are
not only worn in Khartum, but also in Egypt, by
-the daughters of the Fellahs. We here find an old
follow who will not sell his spear, the shaft of which
is roughly wrought from iron, and who laughs at the
sug-sug offered to him as idle toys.
I must break off for the moment from this subject,
for a fresh clamour resounds, and the cry of "Hui, ih;"
therefore away I go to Selim Capitan. We do not
sit long with anxious curiosity, and lodk at the vacant
carpet on which the great Matta was to recline,
under the shade of the ship's tent (Denda, perhaps
derived from the Italian tenda, for a war-tent is
called Gemma, and a shepherd' s-tent of straw -mats
Birsh), for the sandal which had fetched the supreme
chief from the right shore, arrives. The Melek or
Sultan, as the Turks and Arabs call him, on account
of his vast power, steps on our vessel, with a retinue
of followers, part of whom we knew. The dress and
coiffure distinguish his tall figure from all the others.
Notwithstanding every one removed on one side, and
we form a divan upon cushions and chests around the
carpet before the cabin, yet he treads upon the vessel
with an insecure step, for he has his eyes directed
towards us, and stumbles against the projecting foot
ofthe gun-carriage. He carried his throne himself,- —
the little wooden stool, which we should call a foot
stool, and of which all make use ; but he bore also
an awful sceptre, consisting of a club : its thick knob
was studded with large iron nails, to inspire greater
respect. At the Arabic invitation, " fadl ochaut," accom-
¦panied by a motion of the hand, he took his seat on

44 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the oval and somewhat hollowed-out stool, of about
one foot long, and three quarters of a foot broad.
There is something naturally dignified in his counte
nance and bearing, without any assumption ; he looks
at the semicircle surrounding him, so that he may
not do anything derogatory to his position as Sultan,
seeking probably him who is pointed out as the matta,
or whom he takes to be our matta. He then slides
along to Selim Capitan, who might appear to him to
be of that rank from his corpulence, takes his right
hand, and such his finger-ends, which appears to
me a humiliation. The large-bearded Suliman Kashef,
vain and proud like all Circassians, wanted to
have the same honour paid to him, and held out his
fist with its powerful broad knuckles ; but King
Lakono was autocrat enough to conclude, from the
principle of his sovereignty, that two mattas or
monarchs could not be or exist by the side of one
another. Selim Capitan, therefore, was to him the
only real and supreme head of the foreigners, and he
refused this homage in a very contemptuous manner
to Suliman Kashef, who, contrary to his usual custom,
was not arrayed in all his bravery to-day. In order
not to make himself ridiculous, the latter suppressed
the word " Kiaffar," or " Abd," which I saw was
already trembling on his lips.
Lakono's brother, and a couple of his suite, as also
the Crown Prince Tshobe, whom we had not seen
before, clearly endeavoured, without however throwing
one glance of disapprobation at the old man, to repair
this misunderstanding, occasioned by their peculiar
etiquette, by paying all of us great lords the honour
of finger-sucking. One thing was that the fingers

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 45
could not be bitten off in this operation, owing to their
lower teeth being wanting. As a testimony of wel
coming and friendship, they stroked also our arms.
They had not done this previously, perhaps because
the king had not yet assured us of his favour.
That deliberations took place among the household
of the king about the possible aim of our journey,
may be presumed ; both because the Sultan . not
only kept away for a long time, notwithstanding his
residence was only three hours distant, but also from
Other indistinct intimations, and from the very intelli
gible previous warning, that we were to remain on
the right shore, at the original landing-place, because
the Matta would not allow us to move any further :¦
Of course we did not take any notice of this warning,
and would not understand it. Perhaps the white
faces of another world, our vessels larger than their
palaces, in which we go up the river without oars,
when the wind is favourable, and especially the
thunder and explosion of our cannons and guns,
might have been the principal motive that induced
the wise council to come to the reasonable opinion
that it would be a ticklish affair to spit us like bats,
or to kill us like dogs with clubs.
When we little expected it, the Sultan raised
his voice, without commanding silentium beforehand
with his sceptre, and sang — his eyes directed firmly
and shining on us — a song of welcome, with a strong,
clear voice. This was soon ended, and the song had
brightened him up surprisingly, for he looked quite
merrily around, as far as his eyes, which were appa
rently effected by a cataract, would allow him. This
misfortune might be the cause also why he walked, as

46 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
if in a mist, with an insecure step on the vessel.
According to the translation passed by two inter-'
preters from one to the other into Arabic, he chanted'
us as being bulls, lions, and defenders of the Penates
(Tiran, Sing Tor, Assad and Aguan el bennat).
He is of an imposing figure, with a regular counte
nance, marked features, and has somewhat of a Roman
nose. We noticed on all the bare parts of his body
remains of ochre, apparently not agreeing very well
with the skin, for here and there on the hands it was
cracked. He was the first man whom we had hitherto1
found clothed.
His temples are slightly depressed ; on his head he
wore a high bonnet, in the form of a bear-skin cap,
covered over and over with black ostrich-feathers,
which were fixed inside by an oval net-work. His
feather-tiara was fastened under his chin by two
straps ; two other stiff red straps, with small leather
tufts, projected like horns over both temples ; these
horns denote here, perhaps, the royal dignity, like the
caps of horns (Takie betal Gorn) of the Moluks, in!
Belled-Sudan, and may be an imitation of Ammon,
or of Moyses. He shook his cap very often in real
pleasure. A long and wide blue cotton shirt, with
long open sleeves, ' lined inside with white cotton,
reached down to the feet from the throat, where it
was hollowed out round, and had a red border. A
large blue and white chequered cotton band, bound
round the hips, held this dress together. He wore
round the neck strings of blue glass paste, and rings
of thin twisted iron wire. The feet were covered
with well-worked red sandals, of thick leather.'
Bright polished iron rings, the thickness of the little

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 47
finger, reached from the ankles to the calf, exactly
fitting to the flesh, and increasing in size as they
went up the leg. Above these he wore another
serrated ring, and a thin chain. The knuckles of the
right hand were surrounded with an iron and a
red copper ring, of twisted work. On the left hand he
had a prettily decorated yellow copper ring, with
a dozen narrow iron rings, likewise fitted exactly to
the arm. As we subsequently saw, the upper part of
both arms was surrounded with two heavy ivory
rings, of a hand's breadth. Contrary to the usual
custom, he had also the four lower incisors ; we could
not ascertain the cause of this distinction, and at our
question on the subject, he only answered with a
cunning laugh. I soon remarked, moreover, that he
wanted the upper teeth ; yet he may have lost them
from old age, for want of teeth is common even
among these people, and he might have numbered
some sixty years.
This want of sound teeth — as negroes are always
distinguished for good teeth, and the marshy soil has
entirely ceased in the country of Bari — may perhaps
only arise from eating some fruit unknown to us,
such as the cassavas in Guiana, which have the same
effect ; or the reason for it may be sought in their
pulling them out directly they pain them, with their
iron instruments, always at hand. The constant
smoking of their very strong tobacco, with the ab
sence of cleanliness, which, however, is not the case
with our Nuba negroes, may contribute to this imper
fection. At first he smoked the cigar given him, and
then the Turkish pipe, with the air of an old smoker ;;
for smoking is a general custom among the nations

48 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
on the White Nile. Dates were set before him, and
the others picked him out the best, and breaking them
in two, laid the stones in a heap, and gave him the
fruit in his hand, partaking of them with him.
The music which had accompanied him to the
shore, and embarked on board the vessel, consisted
of a drum, made out of the trunk of a tree, and
beaten with sticks, a kind of clarionet, and a fife,
different only from the small ones worn by all the
natives round their necks by being three or four times
larger. King Lakono's dress and copper rings came
from the country of Berri ; this was a confirmation of
what we had already heard. He had never seen
horses, asses, or camels, and it seemed as if there
were no words in his language to denote them ; nor
did he know of an unicorn, and did not understand
our explanation of these animals. If the Arabs in
the land of Sudan do not deny the existence of the
unicorn in the interior of Africa, and even assert that
there are some, if the subject be followed up further,
this arises from politeness, in order that they may
correspond with our desire to prove the real ex
istence of such an animal and is not what they know
to be truth.
Lakono made himself comfortable afterwards, and
sat down upon the carpet, moving his little stool
under his shoulders. A red upper garment was
fetched, and the Turks made him comprehend that he
must stand up to have it put on. They bound
a white shawl round his ribs, and another was twisted
round his head, as a turban, after they had clapped on
him a tarbusch. On this, one of the two slaves who
accompanied him placed on -his own head the royal

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 49
feather-cap, and laughed behind his master's back.
This only lasted, however, a minute, though the
others took no offence at it. The dress altogether,
was found to be too short and scanty for such limbs.
Several strings of beads were hung round Lakono' s
neck, and several more piled up before him, to take
to his wives ; hereupon he could rest no longer, and
went off, followed by all the others.
He was taken back by the sandal to the right
shore, where his people shouted to him a " hui ih ! "
and afforded him an assisting hand when disembarking
from the vessel, as well as on the shore itself,
according to the usual practice among themselves.
We fired off cannons in honour to him, as soon as he
set foot on land. Fear thrilled through them all,
and even the Sultan set off running for a moment,
till he was disabused of his panic, probably by his
brothers.

VOL, II.

50 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

CHAPTER III.

MIMOSAS AND TAMARIND-TREES.  DIFFERENT SPECIES. — DURRA AND
CREEPING BEANS. — RELIGION OF THE ETHIOPIANS. — SECOND VISIT OF
LAKONO. — THE CROWN-PRINCE TSHOBE.  PARTICULARS OP THE
COUNTRIES OF BARI AND BERRI.  DESCRIPTION OF LAKONO's FAVOURITE
SULTANA. — MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BARI. — THEIR FORM AND
DISTANCE. — ISLAND OF TSCHANKER. — REMARKS ON LAKONO'S LEGISLA
TION AND CONDUCT.  THE NJAM-NJAM, OR CANNIBALS. — CUSTOMS AND
ARMS OF THE NATIVES. — THE TROPICAL RAINS.
25th January. — At eleven o'clock we leave our
island at the right shore, and halt towards the south,;
for the north-east wind is favourable to us. On the
right and left are several little villages, and on the right
shore a low foreland, which we had already visited
and found very fertile. Several poison-trees stand
near the village lying in the background. The bushar
and garrua have not left us, but cover the greatest
part of the shore, where the thorn-bushes appear to
diminish, the nearer we approach the equator. We
remark the very same circumstance, with respect to
the mimosas, and in those that we still here and
there see, the leaves are broader and seem to
announce varieties or different species. Even the
tamarind-tree, from which we have already gathered
ripe fruit, has a different physiognomy here to what
we see in the country of the Shilluks ; the branches
are more slender, and the larger leaves are not so

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 51
thickly piled one upon the other. I was laughed at
by my servant when I asked the name of this tree.
We sail along the left shore, and advance three
miles and a half ; but one ship soon gets obstructed
here, another there, and the water-track pointed
out to us by the natives is really very narrow. The
stream, which might previously have been about
three hundred paces, is here certainly five hundred.
A large island, with another smaller one, covered with
durra, rises out of it. At one o'clock S.S.W., in which
direction we sail now at the right shore, where the
water is better than we had thought. The negroes
continue to run along the shore, or in the shallow
places plunge into the water, and cry as loud as they
can to us to stop a little and barter with them The
right shore is planted with durra, but it is already
harvested. It is a small reddish kind, giving but little
meal. At the previous landing-places there were,
amongst other plants, several small creeping beans, of
white and red colour, thriving luxuriantly on the
ground. A small island on our left.
I hear, from the mast, that nineteen mountains
(gubal) are counted, without reckoning the small ones.
The chain of mountains is, properly speaking, not
wooded ; but that which looks like a forest, from a dis
tance is, in reality, the fragments of rocks, with which
they are nearly all studded at the base : yet between
these blocks a tree and copsewood here and there
thrives, which may sprout out beautifully green in the
rainy season. A splendid ground, covered with trees,
and inclined towards the river, approaches to the foot
of the Korek, but does not probably afford the shade
we suppose at a distance. The shores are not only
D 2

52 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
very strongly intersected with layers of sand, but also
the mould of the dam itself is completely mixed with
sand. Therefore it seems that the river enters now
into a rocky bed, from the mountains of which there
is not much fertility to wash away.
Two o'clock; W. by S. On the left shore again,
several of those round-headed beautiful trees, with
large acacia-leaves, under which the negroes seek for
shade. The Frenchmen had, according to yesterday's
measuring, 4° 40' north latitude, and 41° 42' east
longitude, from Paris. Selim-Capitan, however,
found 4° 35' north latitude, and 30° east longitude.
At half-past two o'clock we go with the river S.S.W.,
which direction it seems to retain for the present.
On the left an island. The people still continue to
shout, but they run no longer, as if they were mad,
into the water, to cling to and hold fast to the vessels,
for the sailors rap their fingers smartly; but stand
quietly on one foot, resting the other against the knee.
Three o'clock; S.S.W. The water is not bad, and
we shall have, perhaps, a good course for a con
siderable time, if we only sound properly. On the
right there is a small island, with a couple of tokuls
behind upon the shore. Immediately on the left is
another shallow island, with luxuriant durra. The
natives wade through the water to an island situated
not far from the left shore, upon which we see a farm
yard. Two more islands follow this one, and they
swarm with black people. Four o'clock. The direc
tion ofthe river is always still S.W., whilst we seek
for deeper water in the windings of the stream. Right
and left are islands, and also tokuls, part of which
peep over the trees. The forms of the mountains be-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 53
come more visible and different from what they had
hitherto appeared. This produces uncommon changes
in the landscape, where all the surface of the earth
is picturesquely skirted with trees.
Who would have thought of such a beautiful
country in the centre of Africa, and looked for such a
well-proportioned, gigantic race as we see yonder !
They are real giants. Go on shore, look at the Turks,-
the. Christians, and our other companions, — what
children they seem standing in the middle of this
crowd of Titans. Half-past four o'clock. Rocks
shew themselves, for the first time, in the river. Three
large, and several small ones form an ominous cross-
line for our voyage. At five o'clock we halt at an
island near these rocks. Here there are picturesque
materials enough, and nothing shall prevent me from
taking a panorama of this region.
The people appear to be favoured of God as of
heaven itself. The sun and moon do not appear to
excite any unusual ideas here, although the former
may be welcome in the morning, when they shake
off the night's frost with the ashes, and in the
evening to light them when they return from the
chase, from labour in the fields, and from battle,
or when they drive home their herds. The moon
is of less service to them, for they go to roost with
the fowls. The. beneficent deeds of these two lumin
aries are too regular. But the canopy of heaven
itself may direct their thoughts above ; from thence
comes the rain, irrigating their fields, causing the
stream to increase, filling and animating anew their
large fish-ponds. God's water is allowed to flow
over God's land, and they are pleased at the cheerful

54 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
harvest, without praying, beseeching, and returning
thanks, for they may look upon periodical rain as a
regular tribute from above. Heaven does not forsake
her people here, and the inexorable sun, parching up
everything, has perhaps never been worshipped by
the Ethiopians.
We lie now to the eastern side of the island
of Tshanker. King Lakono visited us to-day a
second time, and brought with him a young wife
from his harim. He took off his hand the orange-
coloured ring, on which Selim Capitan fixed a long
ing eye, and' presented it to him with a little iron
stool, plainly forged in a hurry. The Crown-prince,
Tshobe, has a very intelligent countenance, and
seems to me to be a clever fellow. He wears no
ornament on the upper part of his arms, except the
two large ivory rings. Although it was known that
he would succeed King Lakono, and that the latter
had called him his eldest son and successor, yet
the Turks believed that he was some relation of
the king's, whom he had only brought with him
to receive^ presents. I had, however, previously
seen him with us, and remarked at that time that
he kept back proudly when the others stepped for
ward for our gifts. But Lakono had only presented
us with two oxen, and given us a verbal mandate to
the republicans of the left shore; therefore, the
Turks were discontented. Against all policy, the
honour of a Turkish coronation-mantle was not con
ferred upon Tshobe, nor on the others who might
have expected a dress. The prince took the miser
able glass beads with a kind of indifference and
contempt.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE; 55
We gathered further intelligence about the
country, and Lakono was complaisant enough to
communicate to us some general information. With
respect to the Nile sources, we learn that it requires
a month, the signification of which was interpreted
by thirty days, to come to the country of Anjan
towards the south, where the Tubirih (Bah'r el
Abiad) separates into four shallow arms, and the
water only reaches up to the ankles. Thirty days
seems indeed a long time, but the chain of mountains
itself may present great impediments, and hostile
tribes and the hospice stations may cause circuitous
routes. These latter appear necessary, for the
natives being already overladen with weapons and
ornaments, it is impossible that they can carry pro
visions for so long a time, from the want of beasts
of burden. There are said to be found very high
mountains on this side, in comparison with which the
ones now before us are nothing at all.
Lakono did not seem, according to my views, to
understand rightly the question, whether snow was
lying on these mountains. He answered, however,
No. Now, when I consider the thing more closely,
it is a great question to me whether he and his inter
preter have a word for snow ; for though the Arabic
word telki or snow is known perhaps in the whole
land of Sudan, yet that itself is unknown. Whether
these four brooks forming the White Stream come
from rocks or from the ground, Lakono could not say
for he had not gone further. With respect to the
country of Berri, which he stated in his first visit was
likewise a month distant, Lakono now corrected him
self and said that this country is not thirty, but only

56 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
ten days' journey off to the east. He impressed on
us particularly that copper is as abundant, and found
there in the same manner as iron here. He appears,
indeed, to wish to inflame our gold-seeking hearts
by his repeated commendations of this country, on
purpose that he may get possession, at one blow, of
the treasures, with the assistance of our fire-arms;
He expected an answer which could not be given
him, because the Dinkani, who translated his words
into Arabic, only told- us (according to my full con
viction) what he chose to let us know, most probably
being induced by the other soldiers and sailors to do
everything he could for our speedy return.
We also heard that on the road water is found, but
that in Berri itself there is no river, and that the
natives drink from springs (Birr). The people of Bari
get their salt, which is quite clear and fine-grained, from
thence. It is boiled in earthen pots, and retains their
form. The language of the country of Berri is different
from that of Bari. The blue beads, in the form of
little cylinders, which we saw on Lakono and some
others, and had even found previously, came also
from Berri. We had similar-formed glass paste, of
white and blue colours ; but the higher value was set
on the blue, and on the large, round, blue beads.
Commercial intercourse in Berri does not seem to
be carried on in a very peaceful manner, according
to what we had heard previously, and also now from
some of the King's companions ; for it is boasted that
on the way home copper is plundered from the
people on the road, with whom they take up their
quarters, and who have it piled up in their houses.
They say that the men on the copper mountains are a

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE . 57
very bad set ; and that therefore they are obliged to
take from them again the spears which they had
given them for copper. In Berri also the people go
naked, and there are few dresses such as Lakono
possesses. The latter asserts that his dominion
reaches seven days' journey further up the river.
Much might be learnt if there were more order, on
our side, in the questions ; but they are jumbled up
one with the other, and asked more for amusement
than for scientific interests, without once reflecting
whether the answer corresponds to the question or
not. The favourite Sultana had certainly not much to
boast of in the way of beauty, but she was an
amiable looking woman : she was not at all shy, and
looked freely around her. A number of glass beads
were given to her, and she was too much of a woman
and negress not to be exceedingly delighted at them.
Lakono restrained himself, as at the first time, on the
sight of such presents, within the limits of pleasing
surprise, without betraying the least symptom of the
childish joy which is indigenous in these men of
nature. She was, however, very cordial with him,
and he with her ; he helped her even to pack
together her ornaments in a handkerchief, and gave it
over to her with a benevolent look. I had the honour
also of a friendly smile from her, which I naturally
returned. She remarked this immediately to her
lord and master, whereupon the latter bowed his
entire approbation, and smiled at me.
This queen was very simply adorned for her rank.
Her head was shaven quite bare, without a diadem
and other ornaments ; her hair, the embellishment of
d 5

58 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
woman, was therefore put to the sword, and with it
also the first advantageous impression, even if the
nose had not been slightly turned in. She was
simply clothed with two leathern aprons, under which,
through her continually shifting her seat, I caught
sight of a rahat. A number of polished iron rings
were spread over the joints of her hands and feet.
A narrow ring of ivory was on the upper part of
each arm ; and around the neck a large iron ring,
from which a great tooth, a flat little bell, and some
other knick-knackeries of iron, hung down to her
breasts, which are already tolerably withered, for she
has probably borne children. She had red sandals
on the feet, with little iron rings on them as orna
ments. All the under part ofthe body was tattooed —
this may be the sign of a foreign race ; the nose also
is of a different stamp to those in Bari. The root of
the nose is certainly strongly depressed in these
women, of whom I saw yesterday also some speci
mens, so that it forms, with the arched forehead, not
an unpleasing waved line, terminating in a saucy
point, without the latter becoming a flat knob. If
we could have put into the mouth, where the four
lower incisors also were wanting, a ducat, or perhaps
a dollar, the teeth would not then have projected in
the negro manner, and those blubber lips would not
have been at all noticed.
The skull, throughout Bari, is not generally pressed
back like that of animals, to the occiput, although the
latter is strongly developed. I find, however, no dif
ference in the form of our Egyptian thick heads di
rectly they take off their tarbusch. The fluidum pri-
mordiale of the Barian power of creation must there-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 59
fore have worked, in this mountain-land, with the same
noble power as that of the land of Kashmire.
In other respects our queen was well formed, and
the calves of her legs projected tolerably stoutly over
the iron rings. Even in Germany she would have
been considered one of the tallest of her sex, and
here also her size would be surprising if she wore a
long dress. She was at least five and a half Rhenish
feet high, for she looked very comfortably over my
head. On this occasion I discovered remains of ochre
in her close- cut hair, a sign that she does not use soap.
Her name is Ishbk ; she could scarcely keep herself
from laughing, and appeared to be very much flattered
when she heard her charming name repeated by us
several times. Lakono and his queen had brought a
doll, representing a woman, hewn roughly from wood,
as a present, which turned out, contrary to our ex
pectation, to be only a doll ; for they laughed im
mensely when we asked them whether they worshipped
or adored it as a deity.
We could not get a clear conception of their ideas of
religion — the less so, because the Tershoman transla
ting into Arabic was a heathen Dinkani. It seems
that they worship a spirit of nature, for we had been
previously told that their god was grander than the
mast of our vessel. Whether they reverence him
under a tree, as the criminal court of Lakono seems
to denote, is a question I do not venture to decide.
Horns, teeth, and amulets point to some sort of
worship. Without troubling himself further with farewell
ceremonies, Lakono rose with his men ; but his wife
had previously looked at the carpet, gave him a

60 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
friendly dig in the ribs, and whispered a few words
to him. . The great king did not wait for this being
said twice; he seized the end of the carpet, and gave it
over, without further ceremony, to the slave close at
hand. This carpet belonged, however, to Rassulla'
Effendi, who was the mauhn, or scribe, to Selim
Capitan, and a Persian by birth. He drew a long
face on seeing these proceedings, but was consoled
with the promise of another new carpet, and the whole
thing was laughed at as an ingenious trick.
A panorama, to which, however, the neighbour
hood of beautiful mountain-forms lends the true
charm, opens from the Island of Tshanker. Oppo
site to us, on the right shore, we see the village of
Wualana, and before it lies a shallow island, called
Koriana ; on the right shore lie, at a short distance
from it, the villages of Harikono and Amrit. The
houses of the villages are tokuls, part of them having
higher pointed roofs. Shady trees stand around, and
the copsewood enjoys such a verdant life that we
might fancy ourselves in a northern region.
The mountains lie around in the following direction:
Mount Lof-et rises behind Mount Pelenja, to S.E.
by E., at a distance of about four hours, like an
isolated mountain of small height. Mount Pelenja,
to S.E., in tolerable extent, from its peak about eight
hundred feet high, S.E., 60' to S. and 75' to E.,
some three hours distant, a small mountain group of
a rocky nature, and partly wooded, completely
secluded. The mountain chain of Logoja, where
cannibals dwell, the anterior peak of which seems to
project to N., rises at a distance of from eight to nine
hours, to a height like that of the seven hills seen from

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 61
Cologne, with a lofty back, which appears, so far as
it is not concealed from the eye by the mountains lying
before it right and left, to extend from S.E. southerly
60°. long. The Hill of Lienajin, or Linanzin, a gently
rising rock, covered with bushes, towards S.E. 50° to
S., distant an hour and a half. The still smaller rocks
of Arlu, to S.E. by S., two hours distant ; the rocks
of Luluri or Lulluhi to S.E. 30" to S., one hour and
a half. In the S. rises Mount Lugi, smoothed
at the top, with precipitous disrupt walls of rock,
which does not appear to exceed Korek in height, and
may have six hundred feet relative height. The river

MOUNT PHLENJA. 1 MOUNTAIN CHAIN I MT. EOREBCBIP. MT. XONNOPI.
] 07 LOGOJA. j ISLAND Off EOP.I..NA.
COUNTRY ON THE RIGHT SHORE OF THE NILE FROM THE ISLAND OF
TSHANKER, TOWARDS SOUTH-EAST. — 2"TH JANUARY, 1841.
winds a little to the W. around its base, and this
mountain may once have formed a terrace, which has
joined to the mountain chain of Kalleri, lying behind
to S.S.E., forming as it were the foot to the mass of
mountains rising up in the S. We see on the unevenly
elevated rocky wall of Kalleri, the dry bed of a cata
ract, to which even the natives drew our attention.
All these mountains and rocky hills lie on the
right side of the river. This coincides with what has

62 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
been said to us previously, and the plastic formation
of the mountains themselves shews that the river
does not break through from E. or S.E., and the
natives are right when they place the sources of the
White Stream to the south. On the left side of the
river rises first, S.W. 3" to W., Mount Longi, at
two hours distant ; Mount Lobek, with a rocky head
S.W. 28/ to W., three hours; the flat, round
Loffoni S.W. 30' to W. four hours ; Mount Bio S.W.
60' to W., some eight hours distant, ascending
again to a considerable height; Mount Korek, already
known to us, on the ground softly rising from the
river ; it is one hour and a half from the river,
entirely of a rocky nature, intersected in manifold
parts by steep disrupt walls of rocks, similar to
quarries. All its peaks not only lie in the distance,
where the whole mountain appears like a terrace, but
also near at hand, in equal horizontal lines, from
W. to 75" to N. It is perhaps not more than six
hundred feet high, and it is the mountain that prin
cipally affords iron, although all the heights are said
to contain the same.
As I distinguished previously Mount Nerkanjin
on the left side of the Nile, by its height, so the
mountains seem to increase generally on this side
in height, as also the country from the shore to
S.W. gradually ascends. Mount Konnopi or Kuno-
bih appears W. by N., at a distance of from nine to
ten hours, of light- coloured rocks, without any vege
tation. It forms likewise a mountain group, with its
six or seven peaks, which fall away tolerably steeply
in convex lines, and separate one from the other.
The high points of this group are of equal form,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 63
and may rise to two hundred feet relative height.
Behind this mountain and Korek, a mountain-chain
projecting on both sides of Korek, which stretches
itself for about an hour in length,- extends in an un
dulating form, and loses itself to S. This chain is
called Kugelii, and I calculate its distance at being
at least twenty hours. To N.W. 73" towards N. lies
Mount Lokiin, about two to two and a half hours
distant, with a gentle slope of small height, and to
N. the Nerkanjin already known to us, some eight
to nine hours distant.
If we only consider the situation of these mountains
generally, and the evidence of the natives with re
ference to the origin of the White Stream, who, from
the moment that they stated the iron came from the
mountains in the south (where we had already
hoped for mountains), shewed their accurate know
ledge of locality, and who here, also, transfer the
sources of the White arm of the Nile from the foot
of the mountain land further to ihe south, every
doubt must be removed by the agreement of these
expressions. Even among us the opinion was pre
valent that the sources of the Nile should be sought
to the east in a ramification of the Abyssinian chain
of high mountains. We have therefore made close
inquiries, whether any running water were existing
on this side, and learned that there is not ; for the
people in that part, drink, on the contrary, from
springs. Nature seems here to have formed, generally,
to the east, as well as to the west, a watershed. *
* A water-shed is the geographical term for a mountain-range,
which causes the rivers rising on them to descend in different
directions.

64 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
In S.E. Mount Logoja is seen, at a distance of
eight to nine hours, a chain of mountains stretching
from E. to S. ; in the west rises Mount Kugelii,
twenty hours off, like a long serpentine track, which
must be in proportion to the presumed distance, as
also its height to the near rocky mountains of con
siderable elevation, and seems to extend likewise to
the south. Both mountain chains may, in consequence
of these exterior plastic proportions, rise up like
branches to the mighty trunk of mountains in the
south, as the natives on the Island of Tshanker
endeavoured to shew me when I was sketching, by
uttering names and making unmistakable gestures.
This mountain-stock, perhaps a second Himalaya,
may form the combination of streams of the White
Nile between these its sides. The river here formerly
broke violently through its projecting base — isolated
Mount Lugi, which is like a half demolished pyramid,
and rushed down over it like a powerful waterfall.
Selim Capitan made three observations upon the
Island of Tshanker, and the northern latitude was
confirmed as 4° 30". The stream, having a direction
to S.S.W., is found to be three hundred metres* broad,
from the island to the right shore. The two arms
of the river may amount to something over one
hundred metres from the island to the left shore,
before which another little island lies. A rocky bar
of gneiss extends here from E. to W. right across the
stream, and continues beyond the islands, the highest
points of which it forms, to the left shore, where we
may follow the traces of this rocky bank to a still
greater distance, for it projects in a slight breadth
* A metre is equal to 3*281 English feet. (Trans.)

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE, 65
over the ascending grounds. This reef, running from
E. to W. which may give the direction of the sue-.
ceedihg chasms in the valley broken through by the
stream, rises in the middle of the river to a larger
rock, and other blocks peep out of the water towards
the right shore, whilst the other rocky part towards
the Island of Tshanker is only superficially covered
by water. The current gushes by the before-named
rocks as at the Bingen Loch,* and it is only there
where we may expect to find a passage.
Our Arabs are glad at this tschellal, as they call a
waterfall, or even a current, and want to take it
immediately for an insurmountable wall, even before
sounding the passage. The conchylia, similar tp
oysters, clinging to these gneiss rocks, are the thorn-
muscles, which are found also at the cataracts in
Nubia (Etheria tubifera). By mistake, I previously
called these muscles ampulla tubulosa.^ Besides
the snails mentioned on a former occasion, I found on
the shores of the White Stream the large water-
snails (ampullaria ovata var.), as well as the muscles
(Iridma rubens, and Anodonta acuta).
The specimens of sand I brought back with me,
and which were subjected to an examination in
Berlin, with my other geognostical collections, have
been already defined by Dr. Girard, in C. Ritters'
" Glance at the Source-Territory of the Nile."
He says : — " A sand from the shore of the Bahr-el-
Abiad, in the kingdom of Bari, is similar to this sand
(from the Sobat river), only a little coarser in the
grain, which, however, is only at the most of the size
* On the Rhine. (Trans.)
t Corrected in this translation. (Transl.)

66 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
of millet-grain : it contains principally quartz, but
more mica than the former, and has considerably
more of those black grains, from which we see that it
is horn-blende. This is either derived from syenite
and diorite masses, as they often appear in gneiss and
mica-slate mountains, or they might be also of volcanic
origin, for the lava of the Gebl Defafaungh lying to
the north boundary of these plains, contains the same
in great abundance." With respect to the con
stituent part of the rocks of this cataract, Dr. Girard
observes : — " It is gneiss, consisting of white feld
spar, and a good deal of white mica, and mica-slate,
containing much granular, brittle, white and yellow
quartz, no feld-spar, and small scaly black mica."
The island of Tshanker, on which I planted a
number of palm-seeds, rises, with reference to the
back of the surface of the earth, fifteen feet high
above the present water-mark. The natives could
not have been able to have sown the ground, which is
strongly mixed with sand, with the simsim (sesame),
a grass particularly requiring moisture, if the water of
the swollen river had not remained upon it for some
time. In accordance with that, the chain of moun
tains must have discharged an immense body of water
during the rainy season, for the island appears to me
to lie somewhat higher than either of the shores, and
the high water overflows therefore not only this
island, but also a great part of the shores which are
separated about six hundred metres from each other.
From this cause arise the beautiful green trees, and
the verdant low country lying back, from which
ephemeral shallow lakes the water seems to be
drawn off by canals. Like Oases (Arabic Oa), they

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 67
lie there in a level land, which, is parched up far
far and wide.
Legislation appears to be in a peculiar state in the
country of Bari. We were told that King Lakono
slew criminals with his own hand, by a thrust with a
spear, and very quickly (goam, goam), without any
ceremonies ; he sits under a large tree, with a heavy
spear in his hand, to pass judgment, and assumes a
very angry look. Perhaps the great "spirit of the
tree may inspire him on such a presidency, or rather
his own feeling of justice may cause this righteous
anger, and make him the supreme judge and exe
cutioner of the misdoer, the latter being devoted
also to death by the unanimous will of the assembly.
Priests or sorcerers do not appear to be assembled at
these public sittings in judgment, which remind us of
the ancient German institutions, because not a trace
has been found, so far as I know, of any such men
among these people. The great king, therefore, does
not crack the criminal's skull with the club-sceptre
he usually carries, as I imagined on his first visit ;
but the very same views of a death without dishonour
seem to prevail here as among the Shilluks, who do
not slay the Arabs taken prisoners by them with the
honourable spear, but beat them to death like a dog
with the hassaie.
The innate respect towards the king is, however,
greater perhaps than the royal power. This may
mostly be reduced to the gigantic limbs of his family
and all his adherents, amongst whom the heads of
tribes subject to him, may be numbered, who stand
around his free stool as judges armed, although not
voting, maintaining order, and easily defeating his

68 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
solitary antagonists, with their heavy sceptres of ebony,
like constables' staves.
It is evident that he has opponents, and indeed not
a few, from the circumstance that he requested us to
shoot some people on the left shore, because they were
always making war on those of the right shore. It
might therefore seem quite right to him that several
of the inhabitants of that side were shot down a few
days ago, in so shameful a manner, from our vessels.
His statements of the hostile feelings of the men there
does not appear, however, to be founded on truth, for
we have seen several times herds of cattle swimming
over from one shore to the other, without any robbery
and contention taking place in consequence. On a
closer inquiry, his main grievance was unbosomed ;
for two years he had not received anything from the '
people of the left shore. This was interpreted, con
sonant to Turkish views, to mean Tulba (tribute) ; it
seems to me, however, to denote rather a voluntary
contribution, because he complained at the same time,
that he had nothing to live upon, and therefore was
not able to give us anything.
King Lakono had a very sound understanding,
and contrived skilfully to evade the demand for
meat, and the desire expressed to visit him at his
residence; for the Turks wanted to make a closer
inspection of his treasures, since gold was said to be
among them. He always affirmed that we should be
obliged, in paying such a return visit, to swiin through
a deep gohr, although we had been previously told
that he possessed a large and handsome siirtuk, in
which he plies far up and down the, river. Our
sandal, which appeared to him probably more fitted

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 69
for use than his own hewn-out trunk of a tree,
pleased him so well, that he asked it as a present.
Of course we were obliged to refuse him ; for this
little skiff was quite indispensable to us for communi
cation. It was promised that a far handsomer
vessel should be built for him at Marseilles — a white
lie, with which he did not seem to be content. It
was tolerably plain, from the badly translated ex
pressions of these lords of Bari, and still more from
the far more intelligible language of signs, of which
they were not sparing, that they were perfectly con
scious of their superiority in force ; for they signified,
with ironical laughter, that they could easily take
our sandal by force, because it was the smallest of
our vessels^
Although Lakono seemed not to have expected
such an answer from us, and to be offended at it, yet
he did not relinquish his plans of conquest and booty,
in which we were to assist him. He wished not
only to undertake a warlike expedition, in company
with us, to Berri, so rich in copper, but also to
the neighbouring mountain-chain of Logaja. (also
Lokonja). The cannibals dwelling upon this moun
tain — not known here, however, by the name of
Njam-Njam — had been long the subject of con
versation among the crew. According to what we
heard from the natives below, these ill-famed moun
taineers had heads, and went on all-fours like dogs ;
this was repeated also, even in Bari, probably from
our misunderstanding the language.
Captain Selim, the Muscovite, to whom courage could
not be denied in other respects, had, even in Khartum,
been wonderfully afraid of these so-calledNjam-Njams.

70 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Now, however, he allowed his fear to mount to a truly
ridiculous height, probably because he was the most
corpulent of us all, except Selim-Capitan. He thought
nothing, less than that he would be the first roast
morsel which that savage mountain-race would choose
for a feast, on a favourable nocturnal opportunity.
Before the first expedition, my brother had designated
him a plump morsel (kabab semmin) for the canni
bals ; and scarcely was he summoned to this expedi
tion than he inquired repeatedly and anxiously about
the existence and the abode of these men. This joke
was now haunting his brains, and particularly when
his fat face was lighted up by the enjoyment of araki,
which he drank secretly in his cabin, in order not to
let the others partake of it. In such a condition as
this, he exhorted me to assist in urging as speedy a
return as possible ; and, moreover, to think of my poor
brother Jussuf, who perhaps was ill.
Lakono, explained, on closer questioning, the
ominous rumour of the Anthropophagi, with dogs'
heads, and informed us that these bad people have
heads indeed, like others, but allow all their teeth to
remain in their head, and crawl upon all-fours when
they eat men. This means, perhaps, nothing more
than that ¦ they do not join in open combat with the
inhabitants of Bari, but crawl close to people, like
dogs, plunder them, and perhaps eat them. The
Bagharas assert, that the same custom of crawling,
in marauding expeditions, exists among the Shilluks;
and our Circassians relate things, which are scarcely
credible, of the manner in which boys and girls are
caught in their country.
.It was confirmed here what we had previously

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 71
heard, viz. that brothers do not marry sisters, nor
fathers daughters ; they were indignant, and with
reason, at such a question. The bride is purchased
from the father for sixty to seventy oxen : this price
might be called dear, in spite ofthe numerous herds
of cattle here ; yet it counteracts polygamy and the
enfeeblement of race thereby produced, as much as
the forbidding of marriage among blood relations. The
release of a prisoner costs only thirty oxen, whence we
might conclude that their wars, which they appear to
carry on only by the river's side, are not very barba
rous. Besides, their spears confirm this supposition,
for they are ground off to a smooth edge, and have
no barbs such as those of the people of the mountains
in these regions, and in the land of Sudan.
The spears with barbs found amongst them, have
been either received in exchange, having been thrown
by the mountaineers in the mutual feuds, or they
have been forged by themselves for the chase, to cast
at the wild deer when they hunt them to death.
The^ poisoning of arrows, with their various barbs,
is certainly against this humane view of the character
of the people. They warned us of poison every time
we purchased arrows, yet I found a quantity among
them not poisoned. It may therefore be usual to use
the latter only in war, because otherwise they would
poison their spears ; whilst they shoot the deer with
the former, without the poison perhaps exercising any
effect when the flesh is eaten — as Shomburg says,
is also the case in Guiana. They bury their dead in
a recumbent posture, and far away from their huts
or tokuls.
According to Lakono and his relations, the rainy

72 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
season will set in, in two months from the present
time, (therefore at the end of March, or beginning
of April.) This appears, in truth, somewhat late :
for the two arms of the Nile, near Khartum, begin
to ascend nearly simultaneously on the 2nd or 3rd
of May, and it is impossible that even one drop of
these first rains in the high land, which the thirsty
soil, moreover, immediately absorbs, and which are
swallowed up by a course in a long valley-land,
should reach Khartum from hence in so short a time.
The regions lying lower, and subject to the tropical
rains, are the cause perhaps of the first swellings to
the White Stream ; for, before all those numerous
low grounds and shallow lakes are full, the eventual
connections with the more distant inner waters, are
restored and overflow. Much more time is required
for this than for the effusion of the mountain waters,
near the sloping rocky ground lying before us.
If we should not, however, take the nearer district
of the tropical rains as an explanation of the simul
taneous swelling of both arms of the Nile near
Khartum, we could not explain this phenomenon,
for the mountain waters of the White Stream must,
though with a far slower course, make three times
as long a way as those of the Blue Nile, in just
the same time. A difference is consequently seen
at Khartum at high water, which, however, soon
becomes equal, from the mutual pouring into each
other of the arms, or by the damming up of the tri
butary streams,
Fadl is my faithful confidant in purchasing the
curiosities of the country ; he is slow and painstaking
in a negotiation, when I immediately lose my patience.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 73
He first, for a long time, squats, as he used to do
in the land of Sudan, with the people here ; plays
with the glass beads, — holds the larger ones by them
selves against the light, as if they were jewels; and
the good Ethiopians become so confident and longing,
that they can hold out no longer ; and then he is
very slow in giving any, so that the value in
creases in their eyes. They are not only, as I have
before said, very mistrustful in this barter, but also
so undecided, like children, that beads and goods are
often given away and returned. I have some hopes
that my Ethnographical collection will increase con
siderably in this manner during the return voyage,
for we have already exchanged many weapons and
other things.
The spears of this country are distinguished by a
greater elegance in the workmanship, and do not ex
ceed the length of the gigantic bodies of these men.
With the exception of a few, they are javelins, seven
feet long, with a shaft of the thickness of a thumb.
The shaft of bamboo is encircled entirely, or partly,
with a narrow band of iron, or with the skins
of snakes and land crocodiles, and the lower end
surrounded with an iron knob and single rings, in
order that the spear may have the proper equilibrium
in the hand when it is hurled. About half a foot
from the end it is generally furnished with a tuft of
fur, which seems to stand in the place of a feathered
arrow, a weapon never seen here. The iron of the
head is one and a half to two feet long, the back flat,
and the knob has four little bosses.
The bows are from five and a half to six and a half
feet long, of bamboo, and encircled in the same
VOL. II. E

74 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
manner ; the strings are made from the inner bark of
trees. The arrows are very neatly wrought, have
barbs, and are two and a half to three feet long.
The harpoons employed against crocodiles and hip
popotami, have, with the short point, which has only
one barb, a length of thirteen to fourteen feet. The
shank, of bamboo, is an inch and a half thick, and is
not fastened to the point (neither are the shafts to
the heads of lances, so that it comes off in launching
the harpoon. The point itself remains by a long thin
line made of bark, in the possession of the fisherman,
and is always visible to him at the end by a float of
ambak wood, until the animal struck has exhausted
its rage ; and then, sitting in his hewn-out trunk of a
tree (siirtuk), he takes the line in his hand, and
with a spear attacks the exhausted beast as it comes
up to the surface for air, until it bleeds to death.
The ivory rings, two of which are often seen
on the upper part of each arm, are two pounds
and upwards in weight ; the fluted clubs of ebony
are two to three pounds. The knives are crooked,
rounded at the top, and half a foot long, with a
handle one and a half or less in length. The
people procure the materials for their beautiful works
in iron from Mount Korek, in the tanks and gohrs
of which iron is said to be found, like sand, in im
mense quantities. They brought me a little basket
full of this coarse-grained black mineral, and with it
a few scoriae. According to Marian, the men smelt
in earthen pots ; for furnaces and such like are as
little to be looked for here as in Kordofan.
This is pure magnet-iron, which, as my Nuba
thinks, they free from the larger stones, and then

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 75
shake in a sieve, to free it from the fine rocky
sand. Girard says that this magnet-iron shews also,
in several places, specular-iron, and recalls to mind
similar appearances in the great Mica slate chain of
mountains of the Brazils. The specimens of stones
procured from Mount Korek, through the natives, were
of a reddish coarse-grained granite, although we had
expected gneiss from thence, having found it near and
upon the island of Tshanker. Yet I would not be
certain that these specimens were not taken from
some other mountain. What rich results might
ensue from an examination of these mountains !

76 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

CHAPTER IV.
KING LAKONO *S PRIDE. — BEER KNOWN TO THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. —
BAR OF ROOKS. — WAR-DANCE OF THE NATIVES.  DETERMINATION OP
THE TURKS TO RETURN, AND DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE AUTHOR. — COM
MENCEMENT OF THE RETURN VOYAGE.— REPUBLICANS IN THE KINGDOM
OF BARI. — VISIT OP THE FRENCHMEN TO MOUNT KOREK. — REASON OP
THE AUTHOR'S AVERSION TO ARNAUD.  CONDUCT OP VAISSIERE AND
SCENE IN HIS DIVAN. — CULTIVATION OF COTTON AT BARI.  APATHY OP
FEIZULLA-CAPITAN AND THE CREW. — SUPERIORITY OP MAN TO WOMAN
IN A NATIVE STATE. — WATCHHOUSES.
26th and 27th January. — King Lakono, notwith
standing his complaisance in other respects, is proud
in this single instance : he will not go on board any
other vessel than that of Selim Capitan's, much as
Arnaud wishes it, who promises us a great fete when
we shall bring this to pass. Selim Capitan passes
with him for a matta enjoying the same privileges as
himself, because he has our treasures, glass ornaments,
and clothes, in his keeping, and distributes them
ad libitum, with the consent of Suliman Kashef.
The island of Tshanker, called also Riem to Selim
Capitan in my presence (perhaps the name of the
second and smaller island), has become, since our
abode here, a market for barter. A great crowd of
people is always collected here, and Selim Capitan
considers it advisable to give them a taste of the
effect of a gun. He therefore shot a bull while
running, twice in the head ; unfortunately the balls

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 77
did not pierce through, and therefore the beast
staggered, but did not fall. Hereupon Selim held
the barrel behind the animal's ear, and the bull fell ;
the people, indeed, drew back astonished, but the
excessive fear of fire-arms appears, since our short
stay, to be at an end in the more civilised state of
Bari. I was the cause of presents being made to Lakono,
for future sowing of maize, and a better kind of
durra, Ommbs (Egyptian peas), and the so-called
horse-beans, (called by the Arabs, Ful, and a very
nourishing favourite food of theirs,) beside many
other fruits. He seemed to me to be a man who
would take care to sow them, for he planted even the
stones of the dates which he had eaten with us.
If the dates in these warmer regions should ever
come up, the whole crew, without meaning it, have
contributed to plant them, because they threw away
the stones of the dates they ate on all the landing-
places. I doubt, however, if dates will ever thrive,
because the doum-palms have a very stunted appear
ance in the lower countries of the White Stream,
and for a long time have entirely disappeared.
As the vine thrives in Sennaar, it might grow also
here, and I should have gained immortal fame if
I had not unfortunately forgotten, in Khartum, the
layers of vines I had determined to take with me.
Merissa is also not unknown here, as the black soldiers
told me, who had drank it, and found it equally
good as that of Sennaar. Beer was known even to the
ancient Egyptians : what is now prepared in Egypt
under the name of Busa, from wheat (kamm) is bad
and pappy ; in Nubia, Belled-Sudan, we get it of

78 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
better quality, made from durra, and called generally
merissa : the same is also quite a common drink in
this country. Beer appears, consequently, to be
generally indigenous where agriculture takes place,
and where wine has not received the preference due
to it.
2Bih January. — Nature has drawn here a real bar
of rocks through the White Stream, which we dare
not venture to surmount ; for the water has fallen,
for some days, as is quite evident, and the vessels
could only, by taking out all their freight, pass the
defile near the large rocks, which is called on this
account, bab, or gate. The river-bed beginning from
hence, appears to be generally of a more rocky
nature, for we perceive, even from the rocks on the
Island of Tshanker, breakers in the stream up the
river : however, there is no doubt, that we might
sail away victoriously over these obstacles at the
time of the inundation, for the river here rises to
about eighteen feet high. The main thing would be,
then, for north winds to blow exactly at this period,
strong enough to withstand the pressure of water
rising in this mountain-land ; for I am still of opinion
that the rapidity of the current increases from hence
in such a manner, that we could not advance by the
rope even with the best will. We have remained
here at the island three entire days, and the ne plus
ultra is not so much inscribed on the Pillars of
Hercules in the water, as desired in the hearts of the
whole expedition.
The war-dance, which the blacks performed yester
day, has contributed certainly to the final determi
nation to return. Even I thought yesterday that I

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 79
heard and saw in the fearful battle-song, a decla
ration of war, and a challenge to the contest. It
was almost impossible to persuade oneself that it was
merely a mark of honour. The natives marched up
and down the island, in columns, brandishing their
lances in the air, sang their war-songs with threat
ening countenances and dreadful gestures, then fell
into still greater ecstasy, ran up and down, and
roared their martial chant. Nevertheless I altered
my opinion that this was done with hostile views,
for the native interpreters remained quietly with us
on board the vessel ; and when we sent them to
request that this honour might not be paid to us,
they returned, though not having effected our
object. It was thought advisable that we should leave the
shore, for the natives had only need spring down to
be on board our vessels. There were certainly too
many black people, and a warlike rapacious enthu
siasm might easily, it was true, possess their minds,
inflamed as they were by the military manoeuvres.
It was well, therefore, that a reiterated request on our
side was answered, and an end put to the warlike
ceremony, without our having betrayed our fear, by
pushing off from the shore. >
I remained this night on board Selim Capitan's ves
sel, to induce him to renew the examination of the
rocky pass in the water, and to allow me to accom
pany him ; but he declared to me, although he could
not conceal his own nervousness, that not only the
Frenchmen, but also Suliman Kashef, even if the
latter told me the contrary, have determined not to
proceed further. I. knew therefore how to explain

80 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
why Selim Capitan and Arnaud had gone alone to the
rocky pass, without letting me know of their intention,
although the spot to be explored, where a passage
possibly might be made, was scarcely a gun-shot
distance from us. I felt myself, however, too much
weakened from my illness to swim to it, and to scale
the rocks, for I would not ask the favour of the
sandal. My servants, who wished as much as myself
to proceed further, had been at the place ; and Fadl,
who had been previously a mariner himself, declared
that we could certainly pass through, but not back
again, if the water continued to fall so much as it has
done now for some days.
Selim Capitan was really inclined to explore the
ascent, but this continuation of the voyage was not to
last longer than a day. But when he knelt this
morning on his carpet, before sun-rise, directing his
face to the East, for prayer, and discerned the nume
rous fires on tbe right shore, which he had not re
marked during his ablutions, he looked at me so
mournfully and suspiciously, that I could scarcely
restrain my laughter. He concluded his prayer ;
and now he saw also on the island of Tshanker, near
us, a number of such little straw fires, over which the
naked people were warming themselves; whilst nearly
every single man was stretching out his long legs over
his own little fire. Then his courage sank anew, for
there were still more blacks than yesterday.
These men, however, did not come empty-handed,
and barter rose to a pitch of greatness and variety,
such as we had not before seen — a quantity of fowls,
goats, sheep, cows and calves, wood, ferruginous sand,
and iron dross, tobacco, pipes, simsim, durra, weapons,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 81
all kinds of ornaments for the body — everthing for
beads. Nevertheless the good Ethiopians did not
shew themselves to-day quite blameless, for they sold
quivers full of arrows, many of which were without
points. They delivered the wares while receiving the
beads, or the seller ran hastily away, retaining the
goods as well as the purchase-money ; they cuffed and
wrestled with our men, without, however, making
use of their weapons. On the whole, however, the
injustice was on our side ; the drum therefore beat
to recall the crew to the vessels.
It was the middle of the day, about two o'clock,
when Selim Capitan, in order to take his leave, and
to employ the dreaded people at the moment of our
departure, and keep them far from us, threw ten cups
of sug-sug on shore, and the cannons on all the vessels
were discharged, to bid solemn farewell with twenty-
one shots to the beautiful country which must contain
so many more interesting materials. The forty or
forty-two days lost by Arnaud's fault, in Korusko,
are again recalled to my mind. If we had arrived here
twenty days previously, neither would all these rocks
have been an obstacle, nor would there have been a
pretext for not proceeding further ; and it would have
been no absolute misfortune, supposing that in our
return we had not been able immediately to sail over
this reef of rocks.
Rain begins here, as I have already said, in two
months' time. On its setting in, the neighbouring
masses of rocks discharge their water into the river
bed ; the river rises after a few days, and it would
not be difficult, therefore, at the expiration of that
time, to pass the rocky bar. But against the proposal
E 5

82 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
to wait for the rainy season, the objection, partly
founded in fact, was offered, that the provisions which
had been provided for ten months, would not suffice
for the return voyage. Certainly the provisions
had beeh shamefully dealt with, and there was little
to be expected from the people of this country, who
would be paid for every thing. It is just as clear that
the natives do not cultivate agriculture beyond their
immediate necessities, and therefore have stored up no
magazines, as that their herds are only sufficient for
their consumption, because-, had it been otherwise,
the Sultan, leaving aside the people, must have shewn
himself more liberal. It is certain also, that with
the hitherto lavish profusion of glass-beads, their
value must infallibly decrease, and that therefore we
shall soon be in want of this means of payment.
The principal reason, however, of my proposal not
meeting with favour, appears to me to lie in this,
that a sudden attack by the natives was feared,
and not entirely without justice, on a longer and
closer acquaintance, by which our supremacy, at all
events, must suffer ; because Turks wish always to
remain Turks, that is, born lords of the earth. As
a last resource I rely upon a third expedition, and
-this thought afforded me also some consolation.
The water has diminished to a remarkable degree.
Close to the first island, which is next to the left
shore, we ran aground, and now we have been
squatting for several hours near the second island,
lying at the left shore. All "lissa" and "ela"
cannot bring us from the spot, although the men,
who are trying to raise the vessel in the water,
have rested twice from exhaustion. The negroes,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 83
indeed, approach us and laugh, but they may wish,
notwithstanding, to assist us ; yet it appears advis
able to keep them at a distance by firing, so that they
may not remark the impotency of a vessel when
stranded. I here count, from the deck, eight vil
lages on the rising ground of the left shore ; on the
right, lying more level with the water-line, only two.
The sun sinks behind Mount Korek, and we hope to
work ourselves off this time. This may be a diffi
cult return voyage, for we have many shallow places
to pass, and the water continues to fall. We are
again afloat at sunrise.
Behind the last-mentioned island we remark another
little one ; then we pass between two islands, for this
voyage by the left shore is of a very complicated
nature. We are scarcely off before the vessel im
mediately again sticks fast, and whirls round like a
top. We proceed down the river close to the left
shore, the negroes throwing stones at us ; we know
not whether they are in jest or in earnest. To
be sure, we did not conduct ourselves in a very
friendly manner, in our ascent by the left shore,
having killed there eleven people, and certainly
wounded many more. These are the republicans, who
would not recognise King Lakono ; they laugh at the
threats of the crew, until Feizulla Capitan orders his
pistols to be brought, so that he might intimidate
them. We shoal again, work ourselves clear, but
cannot reach the other vessels, where Lakono is
said to be on board Selim Capitan's. It seems that the
good king will regain, by our presence, his authority,
which has been considerably diminished by the with
drawal of the subsidy, or Tulba, over these people on

84 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the left shore, who are to give us, according to his
promise, several cows.
I cannot yet recover ; but just at this moment,
when the vessel has turned to the north, in the direc
tion of my brother, I resign myself, with pleasure, to
the idea of remaining with Lakono, learning the lan
guage, and collecting the necessary information, making
myself useful in extending the knowledge of econo
mical and technical sciences, and taking part in their
military expeditions, wherein I should have formed
a fearful avant garde with my three servants, who
were of the same inclination as myself, owing merely
to our fire-arms ; — and thus to become of the most
vital importance to the next expedition, and to be
able to return with it.
Selim Capitan communicated to me, in confidence,
that the French heroes want to visit Mount Korek,-
here from the left shore, and that Arnaud has applied
for an escort of ten soldiers. This intended excursion
had been kept secret from me ; either I was con
sidered too weak, as perhaps really was the case
or no German witnesses were wished to oppose,
as they very certainly would have done, any future
charlatanry. I had full satisfaction, however, when
I recommended, in presence of Arnaud, a visit to
the iron-mines of Korek as being perfectly necessary.
The crafty Selim Capitan said, that he had spoken to
Suliman Kashef, and that a hundred chosen men, as
an escort, were placed at disposal for this laudable
visit. This offer of increased protection produced a
peculiar effect in Arnaud's countenance, and he
muttered a curse between his teeth, although I
declared that I could not be of the party.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 85
What I said was meant in earnest, for I must have
been carried, owing to the want of beasts of burden ;
and besides, I did not dare at all to expose my
worthy head to the sun's rays, because, from having
remained under it, I had still the feeling as if my hair
stood erect, like a conductor of caloric, by every
single ray. Mount Korek will, therefore, for the
present, not be explored by me.
I must take advantage of this opportunity to men
tion a circumstance which may explain my not very
great friendship for Arnaud, abstractedly from his
general arrogance. Selim Capitan confirmed what
the merchant Olivi had communicated to me in Khar
tum. My fellow-travellers, in order to make them
selves secure against any control, had determined,
under the presidency of Vaissiere, not to mention my
worthy name at all in their journals. But the honest
Vaissiere had, at the same time, another plan, which
was no other than to exclude me from the expedition.
He himself offered to provide the biscuit necessary
for me and my three servants. This proposal was the
more acceptable to me, because all the baking-ovens
of Khartum had been taken possession of by the
Government, to provide for the crew of the expedition.
The biscuit arrived safely the day before our de
parture at my house, just as Doctor Count de Domine,
having returned from Kordofan, was present. With
out further investigation, I took the contents and
weight to be correct, but my Italian friend thought
that' Vaissiere was a great " baron fututto," and
opened a sack, from which an excellent biscuit peeped
forth smilingly. This, however, did not convince
him long; I was obliged to order Fadl, who was

86 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
standing by, to shake out the bag, and then a peal of
laughter resounded on every side. Only the upper
most part of the sack was laid over with good biscuit,
the lower part being full of spoiled and mouldy ones.
The very same result followed with the other sacks.
Armed with my heavy iron stick, I immediately
ran along the side of the water to- the divan of Vais
siere, where I found all the Frenchmen assembled.
I said plainly that he wished to force me, by this
rascally deception, to desist from the voyage after one
or two days' further progress. In conclusion, I called
him a slave-dealer, whose cross of the legion of honour
I would tear off; and when he talked of being an
officer, and " honour ! " I called him a cowardly
rascal. None of the Europeans spoke a word in his
defence ; and I was able to retreat through the
numerous attendants, who feared my iron club as
well as the Basha ; and I wrent to the governor, who
gave orders that the needful biscuit should be provided
me from the shune.
Once again, before my departure, Vaissiere and I
stood suddenly, man to man, on a narrow path by the
Blue Nile, where, from fear, because he had not chal
lenged me, or lest I should push him into the water,
he only stammered out the words, " Wife and
children ! " In these countries one must either let
oneself be trod under foot, and be able to turn and
cringe, or must step forward, like a man in his natural
state, breast to breast.
29 th January. — Before sunrise we hoist the anchor
from the middle of the river, where we had halted
for safety during the night, and set sail in a northern
direction. Some elephant-trees, with thick foliage,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 87
and two villages, are on the left side of the shore,
and a shallow long isle, like all the islands of this
Tegion. On the right Mount Pelenja, as well as an isle,
which another larger one immediately follows. We
see two magnificent broad-leaved acacia- trees, to which
several more of these beautiful round-headed trees
join on directly, and habitations right and left. The
sun rises behind clouds. We row E.N.E., and then
E. by N. The right shore forms a long durra-field ;
in its neighbourhood we get aground, and in spite of
every exertion, remain fixed until half past nine
o'clock. The strong north wind drives our vessel
about in all directions, and the tired rowers are no
match for my bold countryman. At half past ten
o'clock we arrive, in an easterly direction, at the
shallow island, separated from the right shore by a
narrow arm of the Nile, and lying on a level with it.
This island, planted with durra, is the very same one
where King Lakono first visited us.
We have the other vessels ahead, waiting for us,
and we come up to them at eleven o'clock, with
great difficulty ; for the men can display but little
vigour at the rope in the water. The negroes of the
right shore pursue us with several bundles of wood,
to sell to us. Feizulla Capitan is ashamed to make
his report, on account of his long delay, and therefore
lies down to sleep. We cast anchor also in the
middle of the river ; for we trust the natives no
longer, and fear the wrath of the great Matta.
King Lakono sits on the shore in the centre of his
people, who are standing around him ; his favourite.
wife is also standing, and only one of his brothers
is sitting near him. I now hear that Lakono had

88 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
asked Selim Capitan for a musket to shoot the
cannibals. The latter feared that the Tubal Cain of
Bari might establish a manufactory of guns, and then
come as a great conqueror to Sennaar, and therefore
flatly refused him. On this account his Majesty is
angry, and will not come on board. I am particularly
sorry that he does not take leave of us, for I had
noted down several questions which I should like to
ask him. A drummer close to him is beating very
skilfully, from time to time, on his long wooden
kettle-drum, and answers quite doughtily the roll of
one of our drummers. Another is blowing a wooden
trumpet, in which the mouth-piece, or the hole at the
upper end, is like that of a flute. They have also a
twisted antelope's horn, from which they manage to
elicit several notes.
Notwithstanding the violent north wind, we set
out again at half-past one o'clock, without even
thinking of a visit of reconciliation to Lakono. What
can the man think of us now ? We who have got so
many weapons, spears, bows, and clubs, from his
people, and who certainly, in his eyes, have equally
as many guns, do not give him even a single musket !
We row at first, but soon tiring of this work, the ves
sels are allowed to drift with the stream, "Allah ke-
rim," and be tossed by the wind wherever it may drive
them. We therefore knock one against the other,
run towards the shore, and go, to my extreme anger,
down the river with the stern foremost instead of the
bow. This does not seem to Feizulla Capitan to be
any disgrace. To the right shore a shallow island,
partly cultivated, and having, at the extremity of its
foot, a little village. Another, upon which are

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 89
several cows, who have only to thank the strong
wind that we did not carry away some of them,
stretches far downwards for nearly an hour.
Here I must express my surmise that the natives
cultivate cotton, although not, perhaps, in large quan
tities. On the island of Tshanker I had seen
already cotton offered for sale, without its existence
being a matter of surprise to me ; for I had previously
met with it in the forests on the White Stream,
growing wild. I am in possession even of a specimen
of the cotton of this country, and know now how
to explain from what the rahat is made, which I got
on that island. I was sitting once on the island of
Tshanker, and sketching, when a young woman
stationed herself at some distance, and pointed to her
neck, which she wished to adorn with beads. I pre
sented her with some to look at, and gave her to
understand by dumb-show, that I wanted to have her
thread apron for them. When I stepped nearer,
however, to make the thing' more intelligible to the
woman, she drew back timidly. I therefore beck
oned to Fadl, because he has more patience, and a
darker colour, which must inspire greater confidence.
She was no longer afraid when he came, but stopped
and gave her consent to the sale by signs, although
the men standing in the neighbourhood threatened
her by elevating their spears. She motioned to Fadl
to remain where he was, ran away, and soon returned
with a leathern apron, which she had fetched from
behind a rock, whereon men were standing.
Without troubling herself further about their
threatening attitudes and words, she waded, with a
true contempt of death, up to her breast in the

90 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
water, and came out again with the rahat in her
hand, and the leathern apron round her loins. She
still paid no regard to the continued threatening
motions of the men, but gave the rahat over to Fadl,
took the few beads, and ran away in the greatest joy.
This rahat was twisted together very artistically of
cotton threads, shaped, as I have already related,
and coloured red with ochre.
Four o'clock. Our course which, judging from
the situation of the mountains, had been north
westerly since half-past one o'clock, now changes, —
without, however, our being able to define it dis
tinctly. Half-past five o'clock. This is the first
moment that we can say we are going N. by E.
These things must be experienced : to be ill with
Turks — to make campaigns and journeys with
Turks — and to undertake a voyage of discovery on
the White Stream with such a fleet !
The vessels, according to their different sizes, ran
on the sand-bank ; first forwards, then backwards, —
now right, now left. To navigate with the stern fore
most is the favourite custom ; the sparks of the fire
fall through the open hatchway, before the half-
broken door of the powder-room, and whizz in the
water of the lower hold ! At last, by energetic
threats, I wake Feizulla Capitan from his dreadful
apathy. The fire is extinguished, and the stern of
the vessel, after a great deal of talking about the dis
grace to a naval officer educated in England, turned
to the proper direction, with the assistance of the
oars. I saw five large and small islands, but whether they
lie nearest to the right or to the left shore, I know as

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 91
little as upon what shore the isolated villages and
tokuls stand. It was really enough to drive one mad
to see the sailors so often apply themselves to the
oars when the wind had turned the vessel, which they
¦regard as a piece of floating wood, towards the moun
tains. I shall, at last, be confused myself in such a
disgusting hurly-burly. Six o'clock. On the left, a
little island ; soon afterwards, on the right, a larger
one, separated from the right shore by a narrow arm.
Then a village, close upon the same shore, pleasingly
enlivened by men and cows, immediately appears.
Single trees extend behind it, and give a picturesque
effect to the whole. On the left, our old acquaint
ance, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward again, and
surpasses, at least, considerably in height, the moun
tains lying nearer. At half-past six o'clock we go to
the N., with small deviations to one side or the other,
and come to three islands, following close behind one
another, along the right shore, and anchor, when it
becomes dark, before seven o'clock, below the last
one. 30th January. — A very strong wind all night ; the
vessels lying awkwardly near each other, beat their
heads and knock their ribs together, so that it was
quite pleasant to behold it. Every one slept and
snored around me, and I also would not allow myself
to be disturbed any more, and did not wake the
capitan ; but looked, however, twice through the
open hatchway into the hold, to see if the water were
increasing. This morning there was only one vessel
at the anchorage ; all the others were scattered far
and wide down the river. Immediately after sunrise
we set out towards N. On the right a wood extends ;

92 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
on the left, solitary beautiful trees rise ; but few
people are to be seen.
Two little islands are at the right shore ; the one
lying deeper rises from the water like an elevated
green shield. The beautiful forest of the right side
condensates and strengthens ; on the left, also, the
trees approach closer together. The country rises
here, and we look far over the left shore into the
land, as into an orchard, with villages. We halt at
the shield-island, on the sand, and look around us for
another water-track. With much difficulty we work
through between the green reed island and another
one, and land at our old little isle, where we made
the acquaintance of the chief Nalewadtshbhn on the
22nd January. We had half an hour's barter ; then
we push off, and navigate with the bow of our vessel
directed towards the first of the two islands lying one
behind the other, at the left shore, as if we would
have caused there an earthquake. The vessel turns,
and we go now again with the stern forward, as gene
rally happens upon the Nile, in order to let the ves
sels drift free from danger, for the helm then becomes
the scenting-nose of the shallows, and stops also, in
fact, on them.
About eight o'clock we halt at the left shore. I
get here a harpoon among other curiosities of the
country. Unfortunately, we now hurry through this
beautiful region without taking any further notice of
the land or the people; for the want of sufficient
water-course, and the ignorance of it, drives us to
make as much haste as possible to the friendly Elliabs,
where we intend to stop and caulk the vessels. I have
never remarked persons lying ill, and diseases may

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 93
be generally rare among these people of nature ;
when they do come on, perhaps they are mostly fatal.
At nine o'clock we are off again, and have, imme
diately on our right, two little green islands, and a
village on the shore. Another entanglement of ves
sels, so that it is a complete disgrace !
The water, pouring out vigorously from a gohr of
the right shore, is muddy, and appears to come from
a lake, the water of which is let off for the sake of
catching fish. On the left a green island, with high
reeds ; on the right a wood, wherein there are several
bare and withered trees. The land appears here to
be quite uncultivated. Our vessel at last goes again
properly, for Selim Capitan, whom the other vessels
are trying to keep in sight, outstrips us by the stroke
of the oars. The reed-island is followed by another
one after some paces. The shores are arid on both
sides ; we cannot look over them at the scenery beyond,
because the water is considerably lower than when we
ascended. In the middle of the river a narrow island,
green with reeds, behind which, on the right shore, a
large village is remarked, with broad tokuls, as well
as herds of cows at the water. These tokuls are
open behind, and the young cattle appear to be penned
in them. Down at the village another island lies,
of about a quarter of an hour in length. On the
right and left, scanty wood is developing itself thickly
behind the shores. An islet, of three to four paces
broad, and twelve to fifteen long, has planted itself
here boldly in the river. Either this island is quite
new, and will increase in time, or it is the remains
of an old one. Immediately behind, an elevated
green shield floats again towards us. We navigate

94 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
at the right shore to N.E., and shall go again soon
toN. The beauty of the country has unfortunately again
descended to the old uniformity, with the horizontal
position of the flat country ; before us lies an island
like a Delta ; it is already partly dry, and we pass by
its left side. But stop ! Every one fetches up, and
we shall be obliged perhaps to work over to the right
side. Ten o'clock, N. by E. ; we row bravely against
the N.E. wind. The shores of the stream are flat
and low ; by the sand lying thereon, we see that the
river at its side flows over them. An arid island at
the left shore is divided by a dry gohr. On the
right, a village is suddenly disclosed, with broad
tokuls, and negroes expecting treasures. Upon the
island, also, they stride stoutly in close to the ships,
but no beads are handed to them. The men of the
oxen-village point to their herds, but their benevolent
offer is in vain.
We remark, as usual, among the light-coloured
cows, many quite white, and few black or dapple.
The bulls have the customary high and thick hump;
the cows, on the contrary, have exactly the appear
ance of those at Emmerich on the Rhine ; their horns
are twisted in a surprisingly handsome form, and set
off with flaky hair, as well as the ears. They carry
the latter erect, by which means the head, and the
lively eye, acquire a brisk and intelligent expression.
We have an island of about a quarter of an hour in
length at our right ; the oars rest in consequence of a
stronger current, and we go N.E. Half past eleven
o'clock. On the left a green island, of the length of
half an hour, before which we again get aground,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 95
without our intellectual commanders being disturbed
by it. We stop at the right shore, to make our mid
day halt, but Suliman Kashef pushes off again,
although he is the man who takes most care about the
distribution of the meat, and we others follow amidst
the murmurs of the crew.
After we had left on our right two islands, we halt
at the foot of the second one, at about three o'clock,
with the same intention. The shallow island is only
elevated a little above the level ofthe water, of a sandy
nature, but full of a species of large and small grass,
conclusive of the splendid pastures of the surrounding
country, of which the herds afford the best proof.
We navigate further, and have immediately a small
island on our right. For amusement we go awhile upon
the sand, soon get off again, and have on the left another
island with shallow sand-heads at the side. The whole
left shore lies flat, and makes its appearance beautifully
wooded ; over it Mount Nerkanjin, concealed in mist
and by the distance, rises to the west. I take leave of
it and of all the mountains, which are so delightful to
my heart, and have contributed so much to my con
valescence by their fresh air, and by bringing before
me pictures of home. We go to the north. A poor
little hamlet, surrounded and shaded by trees, on
the left shore. Right and left the vessels squat, and
accident alone makes us take the middle road. At
the right, two small islands, distinguished, as usual
here, by nothing except their succulent grass or reeds.
Yet our vessel, proud at the start already gained, goes
smack on the flat left shore,- as if Nature did not shew
shallows there to the most inexperienced mariner.
One shock, and — we stick fast. Once more tokuls

96 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
peep through the trees of the left shore at some
distance ; negroes are collecting on the shore.
We are navigating through a tract of countries,
touching whose original formation and populations we
exhaust ourselves in fruitless conjectures. Monuments
do not tell us, history is silent, and the annals ofthe
people live only in meagre traditions, which may
possibly extend to two or three generations. We
could not learn any thing even of these, and the past
is repeated in a perpetual present. We throw a
sorrowful glance at the youth of these nations, and do
not understand how it happens that a people could
always remain young.
The other vessels pass us, whilst we are calling,
" Eh lissa ! " Most of the men are only seemingly
exerting themselves in the water, to hoist the vessel,
without answering the Abu Hashis passing by and
mocking at us. The natives must love the shade.
for they remain with their wives under the trees.
The shaven heads, and mostly turned in noses of the
latter seem to do homage to the principle of beauty
being in man. If this decided type of the feminine
formation of countenance afford the plastic proof of
the primitive natural distinction of the sexes, then
not woman, but man, stands here as the master-piece
of Nature, similar to what is generally the case in the
animal creation. Woman is the weaker being in
such a state of nature as this, — the beast of burden,
in whom the germ for the improvement of the cha
racter is suppressed, though it must be considered as
her inalienable birthright.
After a quarter of an hour, we work ourselves off,
and row, as fast as our bodies, dripping with perspi-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 97
ration, will allow us, in order to gain a deeper water
course. On the left we notice a forest- hamlet, and
on the right an island, which is a quarter of an hour
in length. Another island ends, the upper part of
which I had not remarked. A long bright water-
basin, from the back ground ofwhich two little islands,
like green hills, cheerfully look up, stretches before
us in N.N.E. The negroes dance and jump no more;
they stand melancholy on the shore, because they lose
their glass-bead men.
Half-past three o'clock. After the lapse of some
minutes we navigate through a narrow canal, and
leave the broad water on our right behind the island
close to us. At the end of this island we first drive
furiously against the shore, and then against another
vessel, so that there is cracking and breaking aloft,
and a flood of curses discharged. The men jump into
the water, bawl, and make a row on all sides, to push
the vessels off the sand. We get loose, have an
island immediately before us, and try to go into the
narrow arm, which separates it from the right shore.
The island is covered over and over with luxuriant
creeping beans, and is half an hour long. Some of the
vessels try their luck on the other side of the island.
A number of goats and sheep are pasturing there,
and among the latter, rams with horns twisted back,
and manes. We keep the main direction of the river,
N.N.E., but there is neither direction nor order among
the vessels, " Allah kerim ! "
A beautiful verdant island below seems to wish to
block up our road. Suddenly a second island appears
at our side, separated from the former one by only
fifty paces of water. We stop at it, because most
VOL. II. P

98 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
of the vessels have taken the deceptive broad path,
and got upon the sand. The current is strong here,
and amounts to two miles. Although our men are at
home on the Nile, yet they have no idea at all that
where there are precipitous broken shores, and where
the shoot of the water falls, there, on the average, the
greater depth is to be found.
Suliman Kashef's beautiful slave has hitherto not
yet come out of her narrow back cabin, often as I
have begged him to let her. 0 thou land of the
East and jealousy ! An unexpected emancipation
of the eastern wives and maidens would give an ex
tremely surprising result, judging from analogy with
all the circumstances occurring in the harims,
notwithstanding the trifling grade of cultivation, in
which these beautiful domestic animals stand, and
their quaint notions of the honestum atque decorum.
Four o'clock. — The last island, where we stopped
only a short time, and repaired in some measure our
broken helm, is immediately followed by two islands,
lying close to one another, the nearest of which ex
tends a long way. It is covered with much larger
tobacco plantations than we have been accustomed
hitherto to see. A hedge defends it against the beasts
of the water, and over the young plants reed-roofs
have been placed to protect them against the heat of
the sun. But what we had not hitherto seen, is a
little watchhouse raised on stakes, from which the
field-guard peeps out ; — a police establishment, which
might be placed here more on account of human
beings than of beasts.
We leave those islands, as well as the two small
reed-islands previously named, together with the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 99
broad water at the left, for another island of an hour
in length joins on to the latter one, and promises a
deeper water-course. The steeply broken shores of
these islands, like those of the right side of the river,
are stratified in horizontal layers, which consist of
mould, sand, and a reddish-coloured substratum of
iron-ochre. We go here with the right shore to E.
A broad gohr comes into the river from the right
side : therefore, what I just now called a right shore,
is taken for a large island, the head of which, how
ever, no one pretends to have seen. At last, we again
advance, although not for any length of time, in a bed
ef the stream destitute of islands, and from pure
magnanimity we order the oars to rest, so as not to
stave in the ribs of another vessel. On the right,
a village and some scattered tokuls under the trees.
We make a bend to N.N.E. The right shore is
thickly covered with trees, but there appears to be
little shade there except under the solitary trees
having broad boughs. On the left shore are seen,
on the contrary, few trees, and the real forest may
be further up the country.
Six villages are observed from the deck on the right,
and three villages on the left shore. Before us, to
N.E., rises a small mountain, to which we perhaps
shall approach still closer, for it was not remarked
previously in our ascent. On the shore, we have
right and left a village ; at the left side two
more villages immediately follow. From the deck we
see here seven other villages ; to the right, in the
forest, a large village, and closer to us a small one
on the shore, whilst on the left again, other tokul-
tops peep forth beyond the shore. Solitary huts are
F 2

100 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
scattered on all sides, and the country seems to be
extraordinarily populous. Nevertheless, we remark
very few people ; the others may be employed some
where in the interior harvesting, catching fish, or
elephant-hunting ; or state affairs, perhaps, keep them
back. Five o'clock.— To N. On the left a little hamlet,
with tokul-roofs, which stand on short stakes, and
may be used perhaps only for the cattle during the
rainy season. The small tokuls raised on stakes
serve partly as sleeping-places, partly as store
houses ; these are seen in every village on the White
River. Half-past five o'clock. At the left we see
the end of an island, which must be very large, for
it goes up, at least, to the last-named island, and
may run behind it to the left shore. On the left
there are three villages, but the trees have entirely
disappeared. On the right five villages, and then
a large and small island ; behind them a sixth village.
The river makes a beautiful bend at this place from
N.N.E. to N. Splendid large shady trees stand
out like giants over the other part of the forest,
and from deck we perceive a hamlet under them,
and also two villages at some distance from the
left shore. The Haba, properly speaking, dis
plays itself here of a blue colour in the distance,
extending from W. to N., whither we let ourselves
be drifted also by the tranquil river.
A large herd of cows comes down to drink at the
stream, but we pass proudly by, and the Arabian
children do not murmur because they are going to
their dear home.
The report that the nations below had blocked up

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 101
the river to cut off our retreat, having turned out un
founded, may likewise have contributed to this unusual
contentment. I remarked evidently how glad they
were that no crowds of natives were collected at the
numerous villages, near which we were so often
beneaped. On the right, the end of an island dis
plays itself; this, at all events, therefore extends
behind the upper island of the right shore. Over two
little islands we see, on the right side, the tops of
several tokuls. At sunset we go from N.N.W., in
another bend to E. A long water-line spreads before
us, whilst the river bends to right and left ; we
accommodate ourselves again slowly to rowing.
Half-past six o'clock. At both sides two long
islands end, their commencement having been con
cealed from us by others. Near the pastoral village,
on the' left side, we hear the cattle and sheep
returning home, and see the smoke widely extended,
as a protection against the gnats, for their nightly
rest. That is much too inviting ! Near a small green
island, in the centre of the stream, which spreads
here majestically like a lake, we cast anchor, and the
vessel turns its bow towards the west, to Mount Ner-
kanjin, the outlines of which stand out only faintly
from the darkening sky. It is a lovely evening.

102 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

CHAPTER V.
RIVER BUFFALOES.— COMICAL APPEARANCE OP THE NATIVES. — WILLOWS.
 SPECIES OP STRAND-SNIPES. — MODESTY OF THE WOMEN, AND THEIR
APRONS.  THE LIENNS.— ORNAMENTS OF THIS TRIBE : THEIR TOKULS;
 THE SERIBA OR ENCLOSURE TO THE HUTS  ENORMOUS ELEPHANT'S
TOOTH.  LUXURIANCE OP THE SOIL. — THE COUNTRY OP BAMBER. —
DESCRIPTION OP THE NATIVES. — MANNER OP CATCHING ELEPHANTS. —
ROYAL CRANES. — SPLENDID BARTER.  TRIBE OP THE BUKOS. —
STOICISM OP AN OLD NATIVE.  SLAVES. — HIPPOPOTAMI AND CROCO
DILES.  THE TSHIERRS. — THE ELLIABS AND B6HRS.  DESCRIPTION
OF THE FORMER TRIBE : THEIR WAR-DANCE.
31st January. — Before sunrise we set out, and had
20° Reaumur ; yesterday and the day before, 19°.
We had scarcely advanced three paces, when we stuck
fast on the sand, because the crew wanted to let
themselves be drifted at their ease. We therefore
row out of the lake-like bay to N.N.E. Men and
women stand smoking on the shore, and offer their
pipes and other effects, but all their signs and calling
are in vain, and the fear is general that the river may
be too shallow. The stream issues broadly from the
left side behind an island, to which a smaller one
joins itself. Eight hippopotami are enjoying them
selves in the space between the two islands. Their
enormous heads have the closest similarity, at some
distance, to those of buffaloes, only they are larger,
and have no horns, and therefore the Arabic expression
Gamiiss el Bah'r (river buffalo) appears more suitable

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 103
than that of hippopotamus. The name of G'zint is
little used here, although it may be the ancient indi
genous one.
Whilst we are going at half-past six o'clock,
N.N.W., we observe on the right, also, a Nile arm to
N.E. On the left a summer village, and sleeping
places, with reed walls, and small tokuls, running
quite to a point, and funnel-shaped, with plastered
walls. On the right, two hamlets, and on the left
a reed islet ; before it a broad arm enters the land to
W., and seems to form a large island, for we go here
N. by E. The stream, which had narrowed pre
viously to four hundred paces, loses little of its
breadth by these means. Before us floats again a
green little reed-island ; we leave it at our right.
The forest has again retreated, and on the left,
also, there is nothing seen above the ground, except
here and there the top of a tree. The shores are
arid, and very refreshing is the large tree on the
right, with its horizontally twisted boughs, like an
isolated gigantic oak, behind which the house-tops of
a large village peep forth.
A number of ash-grey men set themselves to race
us on the right shore from a little village ; they fife,
sing, and clap their hands, dance and jump, especially
the young ones. On the left also the flat sand-shore is
covered with ash-grey people. The song on both shores
is kept up in the very same tune and time, which
they alternate by strophes. There are hardly any
weapons and ornaments to be seen on these men.
Cleanliness, the red colour of the skin, and luxury,
seem to disappear with the neighbourhood of the
Sultan's palace.

104 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Half-past seven o'clock. N.N.W. We have a
beautiful river-path before us, winding towards N.
Eight o'clock. An island at the left shore, the land
arm of which is mostly dry. We circumnavigate
this with the river, N.E. to N.N.W. When we
came near to the natives, we found that they, had
tried the water a little ; now, therefore, they dance
and jump in long shining black boots and breeches,
and grey close jerkins. Such was their appearance,
and one really could not help laughing. Tokul-tops
and, a hamlet on the right shore ; on the left a small
island. Half-past eight o'clock. At the left side the
beginning and end of two islands, with a beautiful
margin of reeds, and blooming creepers. We go
N.W. ; a broad arm of the Nile in the right shore to
N. by E. ; a large lake far towards the trees to S.E.,
and another one equally large and distant, to the
right of the Nile-arm to E. The lakes are only
visible from the masts. Behind an island on the
left, a cattle village, with numerous herds.
Nine o'clock. From N. to N.W. A large crowd
of women are singing, clapping their hands, jumping
and shouting a bacchanalian huzza, as if they would
make our acquaintance with might and main. A
splendid shady group of trees, and a large tokul vil
lage, wherein they now may play the master, Is in
their vicinity. We land at the foot of the last-
named island. . I repair to Selim Capitan, to gather
information through the Tershoman.
Ten o'clock. N. by*E. On the left a broad gohr
swerves to W., and is said to issue again among
the Elliabs. I remarked on the shore a kind of

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 105
willow I had never yet seen, which is altogether similar
to our Rhine willows. The reis hugged the shore, to
please me, but even the last copse slipped through my
fingers, without my being able to cut off a branch.
The forest of the right shore promises not only
variety from a distance, but also cooling shade.
L Half-past ten o'clock. The river flows N.E. ; on
the right is a large village, near which we wind
N.W.; then soon N.N.W.
On the right, herds and huzzaing, and singing
negroes. The south-east wind freshens a little, just
as we go N. W.; but we dare not sail, on account of
the numerous shallows : and for that reason also, the
mainmasts of all the larger vessels were taken down
at the commencement of our return voyage. In calm
weather the sails were spread over these masts, laid
horizontally to protect the crew from the sun. Selim
Capitan knows what the men are able to endure,
and therefore commands repeatedly " Alma !" (rest);
connecting it, perhaps, with calm ; whereupon the
rowers discontinue their labour. " Alma" means, be
sides, in the Aggem language in Taka, " water ;" as
also among the Bishari and Shukuries. We go
N.E., and then N., and round a green reed-island to
S.W., but soon again to N. On the left shore,
a part of the new Haba suddenly discloses itself;
we go a short tract E.N.E., and at half -past eleven
o'clock to N. The head and foot of two islands, one
close behind the other, are at the right side. I see again
the first Zigzag and Sammi, two species of strand-
snipes. The latter are called by the Franks Domi
nicans ; in Mahass and Dongola, Begha and Kegla.
They make the sportsman very angry, because they
f5

106 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
announce danger to the other feathered tribe by their
loud outcry.
Twelve o'clock. N.E. by E. On the left an
island, and soon afterwards, when we are navigating
N.N.E., another on the right ; and some tokuls, with
dancing women, on the shore of the downs. We stick
fast on the dry ground for a quarter of an hour, and
have, at half-past twelve o'clock, two islands on the
left, close to one another, with the usual green border
of reeds. This side rises like a hill, in the manner of
downs, even to between the trees. We only see the
end of these islands. Water fixes here animal life,
and human population may spread far away from the
main stream, generally on the White River, which
may be considered as shoreless. We go round a
sand-head of the right shore from N.E. to E., and at
a quarter before one o'clock to S. On the right an
island, and on the shore a village ; on the left several
people. With a short bend we have come to the N.;
go, at half-past one o'clock, to E., and immediately
left to N.E. At two o'clock E., and at half-past
two N. A sand-bank here protrudes itself half into
the river from the left shore. A summer village,
with a large tree, stands behind.
On the sand-bank some pretty young girls had col
lected, and a number of poor Ethiopians, highly de
lighted at our arrival. They sing, throw themselves
on their knees, spring up again in the air, and
stretch their hands imploringly towards us. Selim
Capitan is easily persuaded to stop a short time, and
to distribute some of the usual glass beads. The un-
aproned damsels, who could entreat in so friendly a
manner, and point to their neck and wrists, ran, how-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 107
ever, away immediately, when we wanted to give
into their own hands some strings with glass beads.
There appears to me to be no doubt that there is a
certain separation of the sexes ; for these girls, part
of whom were marriageable, kept aloof at some dis
tance from the men : this also, shortly before, was the
case with the married women. The latter appeared
here and there together with the men ; but there
were always very few of them, and it might there
fore be considered the exception to the general rule.
Opposite to the sand-bank an arm of the Nile enters
E.N.E. far into the land of the right side of the
river. We row to N., but soon to E., N.E., and N.
Three o'clock. We leave, about N.W., the broader
river separated from us by two islands lying close
to one another, and have on the right the large
island, or island-land, near which the arm of the Nile
enters in an easterly direction. We follow this arm
N.E. and N., and the island, at its entrance, has im
mediately an end here. A summer pastoral village
is at the right onthe shore of this large so-called gohr.
A quarter after three o'clock. Again from N.E. to N.
Several women stand on the right shore near a sim-
sim-field ; they wear behind them a large piece of
leather, like a miner's apron, which may serve them,
when they sit down, as a cushion. The rahat in
front of them is not larger than a hand. Their
shrill cry of exultation sounds almost the same as that
of the women of Khartum and Kahira. At half past
three o'clock, on the right two farm-yards, surrounded
regularly in the square with palisadoes; beautiful
verdant young trees are standing by them. The
forest seems to have vanished on all sides. From

108 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
N. we come gradually to N.E., and go now N.W.,
where the river makes a splendid bend to the N. A
village lies a little up the country on the right side,
and an island ends by it.
Everywhere we notice watchhouses among the
produce of the fields or tobacco-plants. They consist
of four stakes, with a scaffold, and over it a flat straw
roof clogged with earth, such as is seen also in the
land of Sudan. If these little watchhouses are not
erected against thieves or beasts, — the former I believe
to be the case on account of the abominable suspi
cion of the people in barter, — they may be a shelter
for the labourers when carrying on the irrigation.
The black gentlemen had bent reeds, which had grown
crooked, for their tobacco-pipes. In order to express
their joy, they jump like goats, with closed legs,
swinging at the same time their arms. When old
men singly try these leaps, as I saw done previously
by a sheikh of the Ababdes, when we called him an
old man (aguhs), it looks extremely ridiculous ; but
it is abominable and disgusting when old women,
with their flabby breasts flying up and down, make
such jumps of joy. A very narrow canal leads either
to a lake or low ground, or it may form a tributary
arm and an island at the right.
The water here is still as clear and well-tasted as
above near the mountains : sand has much to do
with this. We do not remark, either, any stagnant
water, standing in connexion with the stream, as
further downwards. The thermometer has got up to
30°. Four o'clock, E.N.E. Several singing negroes
on the right shore. Immediately N.N.E., a quarter
of an hour later N. and N.W., but soon in a short

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 109
bend to N.N.E. The river is about two hundred
paces broad. Half past four o'clock. From N.N.E.
to  , .we bring up first, — N.E. by E. for a short
tract ; with a short bend after a quarter of an hour
N.W. A powerful Nile buffalo, looked upon with
astonishment, even by the sailors themselves, being a
gigantic animal, plays before us in the water, and
induces the two engineers to leave for a moment their
cloister system ; usually they have their windows
hung with curtains, and never let themselves be seen
at all outside the door. Five o'clock. From N.W.
to N.E., where a beautiful water-road extends before
us, closed below by a green island. On the right a
broad Nile-arm comes from S.E., and discharges itself
to S.; it seems, therefore, to encircle a large and broad
island. A number of people have collected there.
The river is quite calm, unmoved by a breath of air ;
no oar is striking its polished surface : we sail with
unruffled temper, protected against the rays of the
sun, under the covering of the denda (ship's tent,
perhaps from the Italian tenda). A surprising swarm
of black-coloured people accompanies us along the
shore. We see how they wonder at our vessels,
without comprehending how such a mighty machine
could have originated from a siirtuk, or hewn-out
trunk of a tree. The invention of their ancestors
has remained here in its natural first foundation, for
their necessities give no impulse to the improvement
of these boats, which may have been even in use, in
this part of Africa, before they were on the Rhine,
the Danube, and the Thames.
The nation of the Lienns is already in possession of
this country. The Lienns have the same language as

110 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the inhabitants of Bari ; but they know also that of
the Dinka nation, or the dialect of the Dinkas, which
alters down the river, if such deviations have not
been carried down with the features of the people.
They stand in friendly relations with Bari, and do
not pay tribute to King Lakono, as I heard plainly
from Selim Capitan's interpreter. Notwithstanding
that their forehead is covered with points in horizontal
lines, they seem to be ofthe same origin as the tribes
of Bari. The Tershoman Giimberi, who gave himself
out previously for a Tshierr, pretends here suddenly to
be a Lienn, and wants to go ashore with his treasures.
He had accompanied us through the country of Bari,
and appeared also to be known there. It seems to
me that he has commercial speculations in his head,
and fears that we might take from him again his
beads. We induce him, however, to remain still with
us, because he is very clever in his way. Half past
five o'clock. On the right a village, with good
tokuls, and the green island long seen by us. A city
called Djar follows soon after. Another island ends
before the village, separated from it by a narrow gohr.
A third village lies further down the river; to the
left shore an island with a green head, near which we
stop at sunset, for we see on the shore a large herd
of cattle. 1st February. — It was with difficulty that I pur
chased a national bracelet of ivory, for these orna
ments are as if grown to the people. Such bracelets
are light, two to three fingers broad, and fluted,
these stripes being coloured black. Small tortoise-
shells are worn very commonly here, as in Bari, on
the neck or arm. At eight o'clock we leave the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. Ill
island, go N. by E., and see upon it several scattered
farm-yards with cultivation.
An island of three-quarters of an hour long was at
our right. The east wind is tolerably brisk: we
soon take to our oars, and I imagine we make in this
manner three sea-miles in the hour. This pace
stands as the rule with Selim Capitan, when the wind
is not contrary. Before us we perceive a forest,
which extends over the horizon on the left shore.
The latter is planted far and wide with lubien, or
small white and variegated beans ; so is also the
small island of a quarter of an hour in length, lying
at our right. Nine o'clock. From E. by N., to
N.E., and N. by E. On the left side of the river,
where we remark a village up the country, an arm
of the Nile goes N.N.W., and forms a reed-island.
Owing to the laziness ofthe sailors, the east wind
drives us into this canal on the sand, from which we
get off again at half- past nine o'clock ; a small island,
with a border of green creeping flowers, is at our
right. A large village is seen on the left, with large
and small well-covered tokuls. On the large ones the
roof reaches nearly to the ground, and rests upon
stakes ; behind this circular portico, we see the plas
tered walls of the habitation properly speaking. The
small tokuls have higher walls, but not this lengthen
ing of the roof, supported on stakes, and which we
saw also in Bari. Behind the small flower island, a
city or large village rises on the right shore.
We go N. by E., and remark on the left side two
other large villages quite in the neighbourhood of the
preceding one. The forest of the right shore has
again approached ; a small green vegetable island

112 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
being separated from it by a narrow arm ; some
hundreds of paces further another small island, which,
besides scanty reeds, is thickly covered at the upper
end with vegetables of various kinds, whilst species
of couch-grass and creeping water-plants are float
ing round by the shores. Beyond it we see three
villages lying on the margin of the river, really
romantically, before and between the trees. On the
left shore two neat farmyards shew themselves in a
shining seriba of reeds, the stalks of which are con
nected very regularly with each other, but perhaps
only afford resistance to tame animals. All these
villages were surrounded, however, with a stronger
enclosure of thorn-like shrubs, as a defence against
wild beasts and naked men. A large thorn-bush
supplies the place of a door, and cannot well be seized
and pulled out from the outside, as it is drawn and
squeezed into the door posts with its lower end.
Such a seriba is common in the whole land of Sudan ;
the before-mentioned reed-walls are likewise very
general, and attract immediately the curious eye.
The tokuls have, in part, a roof protruding in the
middle with a wavy form, like also some previously
seen, but the latter had low walls. A number of
negroes have collected, without weapons or orna
ments, and shining black, for they have passed through
water. Half-past 10 o'clock, N.N.W. In the middle of
the river an island a quarter of an hour in length,
covered with lubien. A city with tokuls packed
close together on the right shore, a village being
opposite. Another large village is united to the city,
which reaches over the island ; its tokuls are mostly

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 113
surrounded with reed-walls, and probably the women
are shut up in them. A beautiful tree with wide-
spreading branches rises between these two cities,
and may serve Ihem for their place of meeting.
Eleven o'clock, N. We leave to our left an island
of an hour in length, elevated only three feet above
water-mark, covered at its head with reeds, veget
ables, durra, and lubien. The shores are planted right
and left. We stuck nearly fast by the large city ; and
now we have the trinchetta or foresail as leader, so
that we may navigate on the sand more splendidly
The forest emerges on the left shore, and solitary
beautiful trees stand on the margin of the river, be
tween which an island grown over with reeds, of a
quarter of an hour in length, is situated. In the
space of ten minutes another one follows. The
vessels halt at the shore to wait for Selim Oapitan
and the other vessels navigating on the sand. We lie
to at the left shore, and the order to wash the vessels
is also complied with by us.
Fadl and Sale had already gone from the ship on
a hunting excursion, though I had no idea that they
would do so while the vessels were advancing. I
looked about anxiously from the deck, when a sailor
shouted to me from the mast that he saw them at a
distance. It was not long before I heard them shoot
ing, and they came to the right shore with a large
elephant's tooth on their shoulders. I had them fetched
off in the sandal, and then found the length of this
tooth to be eight feet and a half. It was unfortunately
a little decayed, but yet one of the largest we had
on the vessels, for the larger ones were generally from
seven to seven feet and a half long. It had served also

114 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
as a stake to tie oxen to, and was purchased for a
few large glass beads.
We set out at half-past two o'clock, but the east
wind drives us back to the left shore. The land here
is principally cultivated with simsim and lubein.
Watchhouses, scarecrows, old baskets, and skins
stuck upon poles, are paraded about in the fields.
Everything is standing green and beautiful. It is
impossible that the natives can water these large
fields by hand, as I saw by the small tobacco planta
tions. In vain, however, I looked about for regular
irrigation canals, by which they conducted the water
from the river to gush over the land, in the manner
usual in Egypt and Nubia, from the simplest contri
vances up to the chain of buckets drawn by oxen ;
for water-wheels or saghien cease with the Arab
tribes on the White Stream. The clayey fruitful soil
must therefore be able to retain, for a long time, the
moisture remaining after the inundation, and the
strong nocturnal deposits may preserve the fruits
fresh ; the more so, because the sun, owing to the
abundance of thick plants, cannot scorch the ground.'
The creeping beans seem to have the power especi
ally of attracting to themselves atmospheric moisture;
I saw them often, on quite arid soil, where everything
else was already dried up, spreading from one root
up to twenty paces distant in the most luxuriant
dark green foliage. It was only with caution that
one dare raise these long tendrils, to seek the slender
long pods, for animals liking moisture — such as snakes
and loathsome reptiles — take up their abode under
them. Soon we push off again from the shore and
go to N.N.E. Qn the left an island, which is culti-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE 115
vated towards its lower end, whilst the reeds are
wisely allowed to stand at the upper end, on account
of the pressure of water. Near the pastoral village
in the neighbourhood a large tree rises. Our men
believe that veneration is paid to trees standing
isolated. Another small island, covered with grass
and reeds, obeys still the element from which it
rose. The shores of the river are generally green, and
enjoy the cultivation of the human hand. The
land extends flat on the right, encircled by the
Habas : four villages lie in it, and the village on
the shore is really large. On the left, a small and
pretty river-meadow with a tokul and watchhouses ;
we make a strong bend to N.N.W., and here ends
on the left the former island, above half an hour in
length. A fifth village joins the four others ; the
solitary farm-houses are surrounded with hedges of
light reeds, as also the farm-yards, wherein a few
tokuls lie together. The latter, perhaps, as gene
rally in the land of Sudan, harbour an increasing
family, and increase with it till they become a large
settlement, where the head of the family has the pre
cedence according to the rights of primogeniture ;
this we find also in King Lakono's dominions. Though
harvest has taken place on the right shore, we see
on the left nothing but green cultivation.
Three o'clock. We land below this Ethiopian
pentapolis on the right shore. Here, therefore, the
bairam-el-kebir will be probably solemnised. Unfor
tunately I do not see a tree under the shade of which
I could seat myself, but interesting purchases of the
national curiosities may be made. My speculation

116 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
in elephants'-teeth is considerable, and a kind of mer
cantile rage comes over me for the first time in my
life, when I think how I shall surprise my dear bro
ther iu Khartum, as we are drinking the first glass of
wine together in the divan, and my three faithful
Barabras, covered with the weapons and ornaments of
the people of these countries, march in through the
bye-door and lay the whole booty at our feet. We
are here in the country of Bamber, and the large
village city bears the name of Berize. Here Giim
beri, our interpreter, is really at home : I see how his
relations shake hands with him and press him in their
arms. His countrymen have generally, but not always,
these single tattooed prominences or points upon the
forehead, which reach in six or eight lines crossways
to the temples. The natives are, on the average, of
considerable height, although we find among them
men of moderate size, but they are destitute of the
muscular structure of limbs of the highlanders, and
are much more slimly built : the formation of the
face and the language is, however, similar to those
above. They are dirty, and may be called poor, in
respect to their ornaments and weapons, compared
with the people of the highlands of Bari. The ivory
bracelets we find dearer here than anywhere else ;
the interpreter, who has left on board the greatest
part of his beads for temporary safe-keeping, may
have enlightened them on the value of our ornaments,
in order to remain the safer in possession of his own
treasures. They produce their iron weapons from Bari, and
seem not to wish to sell them at all. This deserves
all praise, and shews that they reflect ; for being a

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 117
small nation they ought always to be ready for com
bat. The forest behind the wide-extended durra-
stubble consists of melancholy geilid trees on dry and
sandy soil. The men bring wood, every one a little
log : a couple of small beads are given to each. They
are contented, like children ; but they manage to
steal our purchased wood and sell it to us a second
time. My servants tell me that they have found a
deep pit covered at the top lightly with straw, in
which elephants are caught. A barking dog was
fastened to a corner of it. The latter is a huntsman's
whistle to entice the elephants who may chance to be
curious. This manner of catching elephants is com
mon throughout all the land of Sudan, especially in
Fazogl. We were not a little afraid formerly in
Taka of falling, during our nocturnal marches, with
our horses, into these elephant-pits, as frequently hap
pens in the Chasuas. In truth the people in Taka
seem to stand on friendly terms with elephants,
and to leave the hunting of them to the mountain
people of that country, although Sauachinn (Saua-
kim) on the Red Sea is the staple town of ivory, from
whence it goes to India, and afterwards to Europe.
2nd of February. — To-day is the great Bairam
feast. The rising sun is greeted with twenty- one
cannon-shots : all the people run away, and do not
return till after all the guns had been discharged.
I learned from Feizulla Capitan the formula of the
usual congratulation : " Bairam Sheriff ma berek,"
and set off with it to the two commanders. The
Egyptians could not belie, on this opportunity, their
innate Bakshish mania, and came one after the other
for drink-money.

118 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Arnaud is so ill that he cannot leave his vessel,
and raves incessantly. With the exception of some
small elephants' teeth, I only acquire, notwithstand
ing Fadl's activity, a few ivory bracelets and iron
buckles, with an oblong plate. Although Selim Capi
tan yesterday, at the request of Giimberi, who peti
tioned for his countrymen, distributed some cups,
with the usual sug-sug, among the people, and also
presented strings of beads to certain individuals, yet
they only brought us to-day, at last, one ox. Giim
beri seemed not to possess the proper influence with
his friends, and, moreover, to have excited the envy
of a chief ; for he had only fetched away, at night,
from Selim Capitan, his glass treasures, under the
promise of several paschal lambs. We set out at half-
past eleven o'clock at noon from Berize, and leave on
the right a reed- island, ofthe length of half an hour,
the lower part of which is covered with lubien. N.W.
by W. Both shores are cultivated. At one o'clock
a large village on the right ; opposite, another one,
with open tokuls, and a strong palisado-kind of en
closure, seemingly as a protection against wild beasts,
if not against men themselves ; for this is a station of
herds. N.E. by N., and a quarter after one o'clock
to N. Near the large village three others are in a line,
on the right side of the river, the last numbering
about a hundred and fifty tokuls. The walls of the
magazines, being raised on stakes, are wattled like
baskets, and then besmeared with clay ; the tokuls
for the cattle, which also stand separately here, are
protected by a strong seriba of trunks of trees and
thorns; whilst around the habitations of human beings
there are hedges of reeds, partly smooth. Opposite,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 119
at a little distance from the left shore, another village.
To judge from the shores, beans here appear to afford
a principal means of nourishment. Half-past one
o'clock. From N.N.E. to W. by N., and then
N.N.W. Solitary tokuls, near which the beans
occupy entire plains. From N.N.W. immediately
again W. Some hundreds of royal cranes perched
here quite gorgeously on a sand-bank ; they were
right not to -keep their position, for I had raised the
" longue carabine," as my brother used to call our
long Turkish gun. A quarter before two o'clock,
N.W. From the deck we see four villages to the
right, and one to the left.
Before us we have the obtuse corner of an island,
which has from here considerable extension. Large
herds of cows and villages are scattered upon it.
Away over the end of this island we see, on the right
side ofthe river, three more villages. In consequence
of the shallows, we leave the right arm of the Nile
and make for the left shore before the broad island,
going again aback. Close to the nearest village, on
the large island, a number of blacks havecollected.
The leader of the chorus leads the choir, and the
multitude answers with fearful vigour. A troop of
elites, assembled before the crowd, run in close
.column backwards and forwards, — their leader at
their -head, commanding them, and holding a pole, on
the top of which an animal's tail was fastened, clearly
in order to give us a warlike representation. But
they bring several heads of cattle to the shore. These
are reasonable men : we have, in truth, no meat,
and the sailors crack the rough lubien-pods and the
durra-stalks like sugar-canes. Real garden warblers

120 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
are these Arabs, and all the blacks. Selim Capitan
has already reached the island, whilst we remain
fixed on the sand until I wake up the captain.
I hear the sailors gasping forth " eh lissa," but
I know this simulating of extreme exertion, when
each man trusts to the other one working. At
half-past two o'clock we pushed on through the left
arm of the Nile over to the island, where there was a
great huzzaing and joy on the vessels touching land.
Again they brought three oxen, and a splendid
barter took place. Besides fowls, goats, and sheepe
they bring a quantity of elephants' teeth,, pan
thers', leopards' and monkeys' skins, little stools,
iron buckles, ivory bracelets, weapons, lubien, small
water-melons, woollen war-caps, iron necklaces,
strings twisted together of little shining black fruits,
fixed like beads, &c. The people are very friendly,
and willing to oblige, and I might say, more culti-r
vated than those of Bari. We are on the large
island called after the name of the neighbouring great
village Buko. The latter contains more than five
hundred tokuls. I hear, to my astonishment, that
the nation here is not called Bamber, but Buko, and
that the tribe of the Bambers has its boundaries
before this island, and is only a small race, like
the Korreji, or Korreschi, who are said to dwell
above the Bambers, and may have originated from
Mount Korreji in Bari. It seems that these Bukos
are of one race with the Bambers, Tshierrs, and
Lienns, for they have generally their foreheads
dotted. The formation of the face, and other physical
qualities — the large and moderate stature, also speak

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 121
in favour of a common origin and subsequent sepa
ration. The arm of the Nile wherein we lie, and which we
shall navigate, is called Kirboli ; the right and narrow
arm on the other side of the island, towards N.,
Kirti. Selim Capitan requests me to accompany
him to the Kirti. We went down it in the sandal
for the distance of half an hour, and found its
breadth to be seventy-five metres, by the assistance
of the rope which was drawn across it through one
of the plundered siirtuks. As far as we can see,
this arm goes, with slight declinations to E. and
W., entirely to N., which direction the natives also
gave. According to this it would be our nearest
road, but its water is unknown, and it is not
thought safe to let the lighter vessels take this short
cut. With respect to this little track, it had a depth, at
the commencement, of two, immediately afterwards
of two and a half, and, at the end of our excursion,
of three and a quarter fathoms. We returned about
evening by land, — painful enough for Sabatier and
myself, who are just convalescent, — and passed by
nine small villages, or groups of tokuls, which I had
taken, at our anchorage, for three villages, and then
had counted thirteen. The surface of the earth is an
excellent humus on this side, and the little fields were
trenched with furrows for irrigation, and on which,
among other things, we found water-melons. On the
extensive plain of the island we do not observe a tree,
except some small ones, near our vessels, and a large
one behind the city of Buko. From a distance we
saw the natives harpooning fish, which they brought
VOL. II. «

122 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
soon for sale to us. But here, also, we found, in gene
ral, an intolerable and abominable mistrust.
3rd February. — The natives have generally few
ornaments, weapons, and other effects ; and little,
therefore, could I acquire in this respect. Yet I did
a good business in ivory, and I please myself at the
idea of how you, my dear brother, will stare, though
far, — far are we yet asunder.
An old man, having two thick ivory rings, of a
hand's breadth, on the upper part of each arm, and
leathern strings round his neck, will have nothing to
do with selling or the new glass trade. He regards
the glass beads with a certain air of contempt,—
won't have them, even gratis, and looks disdainfully
at the childish passion of his nation. I see him now
from the vessel, quietly sitting under a little tree,
and smoking his pipe, without troubling himself to
come nearer to us. He smoked, as is frequently seen
on the White Stream, charcoal, from want of tobacco
— called here also tabak — a thing which none of us
could imitate. When I gave him tobacco, he became at
once quite friendly, knocked the charcoal out of his
pipe, filled it, took down the little tongs, to which
there was a shovel attached, from the pipe-tube, and
laid a coal upon it.
Unfortunately, what we had been already told in
Bari about the traffic in slaves, was confirmed here.
Las Casas,* who effected the freedom of the Indians,
* Bartholomew de las Casas, a Spanish prelate, born at
Seville in 1474, and died at Madrid 1566. He set at liberty the
Indians who had fallen to his share in the division of Cuba, when
it was conquered by Columbus, and interested himself for them
with King Ferdinand. With a strange inconsistency, however,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 123
transplanted therefore an abuse only from one quar
ter of the globe to the other, without considering its
results. In the mutual wars here, the prisoners, like
those of the Greeks, Romans, and ancient Germans,
are made slaves. Yet, perhaps, among these people
they are redeemed by paying a certain number of
cattle. Men-hunts, properly speaking, do not seem
to take place, and their wars consist only in the re
ciprocal plunder of herds, and the revenge thereby
occasioned, when they may seize on human beings as
an equivalent for their piljaged property.
Cattle are here of considerable value, and this may
arise from the great population, which therefore does
not despise meat. A slave costs an ox, or six iron
bracelets, which are not thicker, than a little finger.
It is Sultan Lakono who takes their slaves from
them, giving iron in return ; and as in the land of
Sudan, golden okien serve instead of coined money,
so here rings are used for the same purpose. It may
" be also a kind of policy in this king paying only in
rings, and not in weapons, by the possession of which
his neighbours might become dangerous to him. La
kono comes to this place every year, with several
large siirtuks and winds up this business, in per
son. He requires these slaves for labour (those
seen by us seemed quite contented with their lot) —
to get the iron and work it, and also perhaps for his
protection. The despots of Sennaar also keep up
their dignity by slaves, and not by a body-guard of
he became the author of. the slave trade, by his proposal to pur
chase negroes from the Portuguese in Africa to supply the planters
with labourers, which suggestion wa^ unfortunately adopted. —
(Translator).
g 2

124 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
women, any more than Sultan Lakono. The Turks
profited by this cheap opportunity to buy slaves, and
Suliman Kashef, who on the former expedition brought
fifteen slaves to Khartum, and sold them as soldiers,
is said to have taken this morning several on board
his vessel. I am unable alone to oppose this want of
discipline. Even M. Arnaud, who pretended pre
viously to oppose with me any purchase of slaves^
has been found very willing to take on board a young
native girl, who, however, is said to belong to the
woman-hating Selim Capitan, as a plaything for his
little slave, or for himself, which makes the invalid
Sabatier perfectly furious.
Half-past eleven o'clock. We leave the island,
and go at first S.W. by S., and then proceed N.N.W.
on the Kirboli (Bah'r el abiat). On the right we
have immediately the large village of Buko, which
turns longitudinally from the shore. The tree stand
ing there is taken not only by me, but also by the
Egyptians, for a sycamore. Three villages follow on
the shore of the island ; the last also is not a small
one. For a moment we are beneaped, and get our
selves in motion by rowing against the north-east
wind, which is looming. The latter village becomes
still larger, and is connected with several others ;
from which, at twelve o'clock, a small hamlet is sepa
rated by an interval of space. The pointed roofs,
which are frequently so shelving, of the little tokuls,
and which I at first could not explain, are nothing but
the movable coverings of the wattled magazines.
We wind S.W. by W. On the right a large and
small village, W.N.W and N. The arm of the
Nile here is not more than a hundred and fifty paces

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 125
broad.' Half-past twelve o'clock N.W. and W. by
E. Three villages on the right, and on the left, from
the deck, a distant Haba. Not far from the shore,
another village on the island. One o'clock. — We go
to E.N.E., and wind to the left W. by N, The
island continues cultivated, and we perceive again a
hamlet upon it. Half-past one o'clock. — From W.
by N, to N.E. by N., and a short tract N.N.W.
We halt at. this place to wait for Selim Capitan.
After a quarter of an hour we set out again, and go
from W.N. W. to N.N.E.
Several purchases were made, and there is eternal
strife, robbery, and theft of beads, among the crew.
I see there will be murder and homicide ; for every
one now wants spears and ebony clubs, as well as
strings of ostrich-egg aglets. It is fortunate that the
ivory is claimed by the government, and private
purchase of it forbidden. We observe here also
some of those gigantic ant-hills, which are so com
mon on the low ground down the river. From the
deck we remark two villages on the left side, before
the forest, which is half an hour distant.
Two o'clock. N., and immediately W. by N. A
large village upon the island is seen from the deck at
a little distance from the right shore. Half-past two
o'clock. At the right a broad arm of the Nile, going
to N.W., and forming a small island. We leave it
to the right, and go W. by N. and N. to N.N.E. ;
then round a sand-head again, S.W. by W. The
shores are mostly precipitously broken off ; layers of
humus, sand, and earth impregnated with iron oxyde,
which forms here also the substratum. A quarter be
fore three o'clock. Round a sand-bank of the right

126 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
shore for five minutes, N.N.E., then N.W. for an
equally short time, and to N. by W. The shores
here are covered, for the most part, with green reeds.
Three o'clock. The thermometer rose this morn
ing, up to noon, from 20° to 27°, and has now, at
three o'clock, 30°. Towards N. From the deck,
a village on the left, and two on the right. N.W.
by N. Three villages on the left, and one on
the right ; the former near the Haba, which is a
quarter of an hour distant. Half-past three o'clock.
From W.N.W. to N.N.E. Two villages on the
left, a little remote from the shore. A very short
tract E.N.E., and we round a long sand-head to W.
Six hippopotami are enjoying themselves before us,
as yesterday ; and it seems that they retreat, when
the stream falls, into the marsh regions, where they
are more secure from man.
To N. Here we again see hippopotami and
crocodiles near one another ; they live peaceably
together, as is generally known here, and a croco
dile would never attack a hippopotamus, much as
he might like perhaps his flesh. The latter has,
indeed, like the elephant, a clumsy appearance, but
notwithstanding this, he displays an incomparably
greater activity in water and on land than the
crocodile ; besides, he is as courageous as a bull, as
soon as he is provoked, and attacks men and tramples
them under his feet, when he is wounded on shore.
On the other hand, he is said never to go ashore from
the water, when he is struck there by the harpoon,
to pursue and take revenge.
We remark four villages in the neighbourhood of
the right shore, or on the island of Buko. Nearly all

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 127
these villages are to be seen only from the deck over
our cabin. Four o'clock. From N.W. to N.E. by N.
The hippopotami appear angry at their tranquillity
being disturbed by us foreign intruders. They move
quite boldly near to the vessels, snort and throw up
water, although they have not been offended, as they
were previously, by shots, which are discontinued,
owing to the great mischief perpetrated by these beasts
at that time. From N.E. by N., immediately to
N.W. Some trees come in view, and soon also a soli-?
tary dhelleb-palm — a pleasing sight which we had
long been deprived of. For some hours we have seen
no people on thfr shore, although three villages are
found here again at a short distance from it. The
purchase of slaves or kidnapping cannot be unknown
to them, and they may fear a quid pro quo for them
selves, and not trust the seeming peace. Half-past
four o'clock. To W., a little way to S.W., and then
W. by S., at which bend the river is scarcely fifty
paces broad. Reed-shores throughout. From the
very short tract W. by S. to S.W. by S. Here a
broad arm goes to N.W., and forms an island at our
right, where Suliman Kashef is already halting,
whilst we are still clinging to the left shore. Five
o'clock. Before us, to S.S.W., the river again sepa
rates, and forms another island. The right arm is
our road, and goes S.S.W. ; the left goes S.S.E.
The latter appears to have become quite dry, for the
negroes have drawn a barrier of reeds through it, in
order to shut out the fish found in this gohr. We
land at the first island. The arm lying to S.S.W.
shews itself now as a gohr, discharging itself with
unusual rapidity into the Nile, instead of forming our

128 .EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
track, for our course runs with the former great arm
to N.W.
4<th February, — Yesterday was the last day of the
great Bairam. Selim Capitan and Suliman Kashef
had called up all the skill of Turkish cookery to give
us Franks a good dinner, at which we were the
jollier because the Frenchmen had lost several bottles
of wine in a wager. The river, flowing in S.S.W.,
and said to be an arm of the Nile, puzzles me exceed
ingly. According to the natives, it comes from the
mountains above, and indeed from the Nile itself. If it
come from above, it must make a considerable bend ;
for it flows from the left side into the river, and follows
upwards its direction immediatelyfrom S.S.W. to W. :
it must cut through, somewhere, the old sanded and
choked-up primitive bed of the Nile, to come from E.
or S.E. from the mountains to W. It might be
possible that the half dried-up gohr, from S.S.E.,
serves as its main bed at high water, and this being
sanded up, it had retreated now into the deeper canal.
Selim Capitan found the breadth of this tributary, or
gohr, to be eighty metres near the before-mentioned
solitary dhelleb-palm on its shore. The rapidity
of its current is greater than usual in the White
river, and amounts to three sea-miles and a half,
Still it is doubtful whether it be a river discharging
itself, or a Nile arm. Clouds, threatening rain, have
shewn themselves for some days, and in the evening
whole coveys of swallows are moving towards the N-
We have seen no dhelleb-palms on the shores of our
Kirboli, although there are some of them on the main
stream. The Kirboli, therefore, may have already
reached its termination here,.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 129
I hear, from Selim Capitan and his interpreter, who
is well acquainted with this country, that we passed
by two tribes yesterday afternoon ; and I understand
now what the natives wanted to tell me when we
yesterday halted for a moment to wait for Selim Ca
pitan. According to what the Bukos themselves said,
they were as large a nation as their island. But this
is incorrect ; for at two o'clock yesterday, this tribe
ceased, and was followed by' that of the Tshierrs,
who possess both shores from thence, and reach to
the neighbourhood of this place, where Bohrs appear
on the right shore. The Tshierrs have their fore
heads stippled, like the people dwelling upwards, and
use also the same language. Downwards from them
the language is again allied to that of the Dinkas. It
was, therefore, the little country of the Tshierrs,
where no one was seen on the shore, because they
feared that we were set against them by the Bukos-
However, the tribes above named, having similar
tongues and descent, do not live in open feud, for I
met myself with men of the Tshierrs at the top of
the island. A couple of them also were with Selim
Capitan, and told him that their countrymen had fled
from us.
It was here where I was so ill on our ascent, and
yet was sufficiently sensible to request to be bled.
Therefore, everything now is new to me, and I am
the more anxious for intelligence about the stream
territory of this place. As I hear from Thibaut and
Selim Capitan, Arnaud applied himself to the sextant
on our ascent, and found 3° 48' ! Selim made himself
merry at the engineer's expense, because he himself^
on the first expedition, the limits of which were some
g 5

130 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
hours further upwards, had likewise found, or pre
tended to have found, 3° and some minutes. The
difference, however, appears now by the calculation
at not less than 3° !
We are here among the Elliabs, who are con
stantly at war with the Bohrs dwelling opposite.
Twenty-four Bbhrs had come across to us to-day and
brought us cows. The Elliabs wanted to fall at
once on these men, and to massacre them. We
made earnest remonstrance to them to prevent such a
scene, but they continued angry at the Bbhrs coming
into their territory, and thought that they could provide
us as well with cattle. The Bbhrs seem to be wealthy,
and are better armed than the Elliabs. They
hunt elephants, but also catch them in pits as elser
where. The Elliabs have their foreheads adorned,
like the Keks, with artificial wrinkles. They want
also the four lower incisors, as is generally the case
on the White Stream. The people are not muscularly
limbed, but tolerably tall. They wear a feather on
the head, or a coiffure like a flat basket, which may
serve them as such, for it is only very loosely put
on. The war-dance which they performed in honour of
us was of the same character as those we had hitherto
seen, but it was executed here even in detail. They
approach us marching in a column, with a leader at
their head. The commander tunes the battle-song,
and the chorus answer him. They run forward, and
the column breaks, because in their wars they meet
breast to breast ; they parry with their hands the
feigned hostile darts, and avoid them, bending and
writhing their body, and kneeling down. They

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 131
retreat, and the leader encourages them by a war-
song, and even a woman steps out from their little
company and sings to them to inspire them with
courage, in quite a different melody, and with half-
threatening, half-imploring gestures. The column
has again closed, deploys a second time, and sings its
answer in vehement and broken notes. We need
not understand the language in such a warlike play,
whicli reminds us irresistibly of the ancient Germans.
They generally performed this dumb show with a
pliability and truth of expression, such as no Euro
pean artiste could imitate, unless he had learned their
manner of carrying on war from his infancy. More
over it does not seem that they carry shields, because
otherwise they would have made the parry with their
hand differently. When I think how skilfully the
dexterous horsemen of the Shaigies performed the
well-known girid, or Dshirid game, threw the obtuse
spears, parried them with the hand or the girid,
which answers to the German gerte (switch), or
avoided them, now I believe that the men of Bari
mostly make use in their wars of the little hand-
shields. The Elliabs have brought cattle ; but
repeatedly declare that it is the same to them whether
Selim Capitan gives them beads or not. Such proud
disinterestedness has not hitherto come before our
notice. 5th February. — The thermometer shewed, before
sunrise, 15° ; yesterday morning, however, 20°, but
at noon it was not higher than 27°, and at three
o'clock 28°, and fell after sunset to 26°. The hygro
meter has been so disordered by Arnaud's master-
hand, that he cannot even make use of it himself.

132 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
This morning was misty, damp, and cold. The
corn was brought ashore from the vessels, and it was
discovered that a great part of it was mouldy. The
had condition of the vessels is alone the cause of this,
and Selim Capitan bears the blame, because he had
not taken care to have them properly caulked before
setting out. The people of this place have no ornar
ments on themselves, and not even elephants' teeth to
dispose of. I could only therefore procure a broad iron
bracelet, and looked with a kind of envy, when Selim
Capitan despatched the sandal to the Bbhrs, on the
right shore, and fetched off a number of beautiful
elephants' teeth. Cultivation is not to be seen on
and near our anchorage.
Selim Capitan asserts, that the questionable river is
a gohr, which he saw in the country of the Lienns,
flowing away from the main stream. I cannot
persuade myself that I could have overlooked this,
with all my earnest attention. We shall navigate it
therefore this afternoon, in order to divest ourselves of
uncertainty.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 133'

CHAPTER VI.
EXAMINATION OF AN ARM OP THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE BANKS. 
PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND POR A LIVE HIPPOPOTAMUS. — THESE
ANIMALS RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE LIENNS. — ROPES MADE
FROM THE LEAVES OF THE DOUM-PALM. — UEKA.  CHARACTER AND
DESCRIPTION OP THE LIENNS. — THE EMEDDI-TREE. — DOBKER-TREE. 
COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIERRS. — TRIBES OF IHE BODSCHOS AND
KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OP THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER WITH
THE KARBORAHS.  THEIR DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — MOUNT
NERKANJIN. — ISLAND OP TUI.— *-THE KOKIS. — CONTEST WITH HIPPO
POTAMI. — CROCODILES' EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIERRS TO THE
ELLIABS. — EBONY CLUBS.  THE BdHRS : THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS,
ETC  ANT-HILLS. — " IRG-EL-MOJE " OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES OF
VEGETABLE. — VETCHES. — THE ANDURAB OR ENDERAB-TREE. — TBE
DAKUIN-TREE. — A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY OP
DUNG-FIRES. 6th February. — Yesterday the doubtful river was
indeed investigated, but only for a very short dis
tance, for the wind was contrary, and the sailors and
soldiers murmured loudly, because they knew that this
intermediate voyage, which threatened to delay their
arrival in Khartum, arose from the Franks. Under
such circumstances, even the expressions ofthe natives
of the country cannot be depended upon, for our
black soldiers can translate just what pleases them.
At first the river was said to come from the
mountains above, and now they make it take its
origin as a gohr near the Lienns. We had an inter
preter with us, who is familiar with its shores, and

134 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
who returned to us at this opportunity. When he
also confirmed the new assertion, the further exami
nation was provisionally given up after a course of
about an hour long. Where it flows down N.W. by
N., we turned round and navigated W. by N. out
of it back to our encampment. The projecting shore
had deceived me, therefore, when previously passing
by, with respect to the direction of this arm of the
Nile. It is called Kiehr, which is the often-heard
kir (water), thence Kirboli, Kirti, Kiti. There is there
fore no doubt that the name of the White Stream,
the main arm of which is called also here Kir-Te, is
originally Te, from Bari to Khartum, for it is even
called Te Uri by the Nubas, the former word not
being used for drinkable water. The country of
these four arms of the Nile is called Kofon, cor
responding to the Arabic mogren (conflux).
I repaired this morning on board Selim Capitan's
vessel, and shall remain with him to-day, on account
of his interpreter. It was not till this morning that
it was at last determined to follow further the ques
tionable arm of the Nile, which we navigated for a
short tract the day before yesterday. Seven o'clock.
We leave our landing-place, and proceed up the Kiehr
in a westerly direction. After a quarter of an hour the
latter serves as a gohr to N., appearing soon to
disembogue itself into the stream, which we navigated
previously. We go some paces here S.W., where quite a little
island, with high reeds, rises in the middle of the
river. From W. to S. W., from W. to N.W. The
Kiehr seems to be rapid at its tide, and to exercise
great force : we see it by the torn and indented

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 135
shores, and especially by the devastations on a little
gohr, now dry. Half-past seven o'clock. A broad
gohr flows away to N., and winds immediately
N.W. Our river, which increases considerably in
breadth above this Nile arm, winds W.S.W., and
S.W. Before us a large forest ; near it we halt
immediately afterwards.
At eight o'clock, a north-wind gets up, and we
sail S.S.W., and S. by E. ; after a quarter of an
hour, S.W., and W., and with a short bend, imme
diately to S. Right and left pastoral villages, with
lowing herds and natives on the ant-hills. The huts
have the form of a bee-hive, are five to six feet high,
and plastered with Nile slime. The ash-grey people
dance and jump, and want to keep us by force. The
women run and sing by us, their hands thrown over
their heads in real despair because we will not stop.
Half-past eight o'clock. S. by E. The depth of the
water not more than a fathom. On the left a long
summer village and a harim of several tokuls close to it.
We halt a moment at the right shore, take the wood
which the negroes had already brought for us to the
shore, give them some sug-sug, and proceed. The
women, with large leathern aprons, who have gone
away empty-handed, jump and make gestures as if
they were mad.
A quarter before nine o'clock, S. Clouds threaten
ing rain. At the right the forest close at hand. E. S.
On the right a large pastoral village, with plastered
beehives, looking like the bakers' ovens in the land of
Sudan. The cattle stand with their beautifully-
twisted horns, close pressed together, and low at us,
probably because they recognise us as deadly enemies,

136 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
and would rather be in the meadow than waiting
here for us. We do not halt for the sake of the
oxen, but on account of the vessels stopping behind,
although we ought to take advantage of the favourable
wind, as the water is falling more and more. Elliabs
are there, who are unarmed, but yet immediately
begin their war-dance. The vessels have, fortunately,
not been stranded, and we sail on at nine o'clock.
The village is called Kiui or Quiii, and is the
boundary of the Elliabs on the right side of the river.
After a quarter of an hour, E.S.E. Half-past nine
o'clock, S.E. by S., and in a bend to S. A quarter
before ten o'clock, S.S.E., and S.E., where, at the
corner, the crocodiles make a great rustling in the
shallow water, and seem to be engaged in violent
combat. At ten o'clock, S.S.E.
I am again very weak to-day, and cannot yet
recover myself, for I want a glass of good wine ;
every moment I sink back upon the cushion, and can
scarcely hold a pen. The Haba accompanies us con
tinuously at a slight distance from the right shore.
A quarter after ten o'clock. From S.E. to S.W.,
and again to S.E. We see many crocodiles wallowing
about in the water, who do not look at us in a very
friendly manner. Half- past ten o'clock. From S.E.
by S. to S.W. The hippopotami, thirteen in number,
are crowded like smooth rocks in the water before us.
They spout up the water from anger at still larger
Swimming animals approaching, as they may conceive
our vessels to be, for it does not seem that they are
in conflict amongst themselves, or that they want
to take the field against the crocodiles, who are keep-;
ing behind us.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 137
A little before eleven o'clock some armed ash-grey
men shew themselves, without any ornaments, on the
right shore. From S.W. by W. to S. by W. We
halt at the right shore to receive some elephants'
teeth, but they are too old, and we bear off imme
diately again to S.E. In the forest at the right hand
we perceive a number of birds and a considerable
herd of gazelles, who stand in an attitude of curiosity
like goats. Up to here the Elliabs ran after us
from the village of Kiiii. Half-past eleven o'clock.
From S.E. by E. to S., yet not for long, but to the
left S.E. At half-past twelve o'clock. We halt a
second time at the right shore, owing to want of wood.
I saw here a large oval shield of neat's hide, held
simply by a stick. It belonged to an Elliab ; these
shields are said to be used more in contests with
animals than in war. This is perhaps likewise
the case with the few larger shields in the country
of Bari.
At half-past one o'clock we navigate again to S.E.,
and a quarter before two to S. by E. We see that
the forest lies lower than the shores, and that the
water enters it. This focal quality of ground is the
case generally, perhaps, in the forests. Either they
lie behind the dam of the old shore, which prevents
the mass of waters of the periodical rains from flow
ing into the river, or the Nile enters through the
chasms of the shores, if they do not lie in recesses or
old river-beds, where the rain water collects and re?
mains on the clayey substratum, which is the very
same even as far as the mountains of Bari. How
could it be possible else that these vigorous trees (the
Tihl or elephant-tree is particularly seen here), should

138 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
retain their magnificent verdure abstractedly from the
atmospheric moisture.
Two o'clock. The thermometer this morning 1 8°,
noon 26°, and now 27° Reaumur. From S. to S.S.E.
and soon again to S. The north wind has slackened
since noon ; we navigate slowly, and must even con
tent ourselves with libahn, for no one has yet thought
of taming river buffaloes to tow us in the water it
self. Laughable as this may appear at the moment,
yet I do not consider it impossible, for according to
the crew, a young hippopotamus is as tame as a
calf. The apothecary Laskaris possessed shortly be
fore my arrival in Khartum such a Nile calf. He
wanted to make a vast sum of money by it, for they
had offered in England a reward of some thousand
pounds sterling to any one who would bring a live
hippopotamus to London. It is well known that a
living species has never yet been seen in Europe.
His avarice did not allow him, however, to place the
beast in some garden close to the Nile ; nor did he
provide a cow and fresh milk. He was even foolish
enough to lower it into the cold cistern, where it died
in a few days. Although this primitive animal was
formerly indigenous in Egypt, yet now it very rarely
descends over the cataracts to that country. Moham
med Ali had received such a beast as a present from
Upper Nubia, which was kept for some years as a
curiosity in a reservoir in the Nile at Bulak, the
lower port of Kahira.
Half-past three o'clock. — From S. to S.E. by S.
On the right, in the badly planted Haba, the first
doum-palms again, standing at the corner, which we
pass by at a quarter before three, for a very short

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 139
tract to S.S.W., and equally rapidly S.S.E., to go at
three o'clock again S.S.W., and immediately to S.
A half-finished tokul-village rises very humbly be
tween some old low huts. There were here benches
in the form of couches, which I had not yet seen on
the White Stream, although I had not exactly re
gretted their absence. They consist of cudgels, and
every single tokul has its seat of repose. Half-past
three o'clock. From S.W. to S. by E. Near the
doum-palms, we see also solitary and unusually high
poison-trees in the forest, at the right hand. The
country appears very little populated ; perhaps a sign
that we are really in a tributary arm or gohr. This
was also the case even where the Kiehr disembogues
near the Elliabs. The scantier population may arise,
in part, from the more recent lines of the shore being
less constant. The solitary tokuls belong to fishermen,
if we may judge from the siirtuks and fish-baskets
set up. Four o'clock. From S. in a bend to S.E.
On the left a long and miserable village stretches
along the shore, with nine carcases of tokuls, and
small tobacco-plantations. This appears also to be a
village of fish-eaters.
Half-past four o'clock. Still the solitary tokuls,
with fishing implements and siirtuks. From S.E. by
S., a short tract to S. The natives are of a friendly
disposition, and laughed immoderately, when the
sailors, among whom our Abu Hashis play the prin
cipal part, imitated the cry and laughter of the women.
By the short stakes, which are already sufficiently
known to us, we perceive that their icthyophagism
has a flesh-side. They also use the word matta
(lord and king) when they address us. It may,

140 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
therefore be a borrowed word among them ; it is
said also to be used in Habesh. A quarter before
five o'clock, from S.S.W. to S. by E. A miserable
village, with tobacco-plantations, on the left shore,
but the divine smoke rising close by, asserts the old
attractive power of meat. We stop for a moment, at
five o'clock, at the right shore, as if we were about to
land, but the drum is beat, and the tired crew must
again to the rope. S.E.by S. The village at the
right shore, before which a little sycamore hangs over
the river, is better built, and its several magazines
testify that the people apply themselves to agriculture.
Half-past five o'clock. At the upper end of the
village the river winds in an arch S.E. by E. We
see continually doum-palms in the forest of the left
shore, whereon a village rises.
At last we are again close to the main stream,
and near the Island of Buko. At sunset we halt at
the right shore S.S.E. We see from hence the trees
near which, a few days ago, we lay at anchor by the
village of Buko, and also the village itself, but
separated from it by land, and our gohr, — the pre
sumed river, winds to the right.
The Lienns dwell here ; and the interpreter already
dismissed, Giimberi, who had left us in Berize, the
capital ofthe Bambers, came to us again. Clothing
appears here to be the privilege only of the chiefs, for
Giimberi was obliged to take off his red shirt, it being
against the Ethiopian regulations about dress, and
he was asked whether he was a sheikh. (I use
here, as throughout my book, the word sheikh of
the Arabic language, as the most significant in
analogous circumstances.) There are many doum-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 141
palms here, especially young copse, upon which the
sailors pounce, and take the leaves to make cords of
them. I see, to my sorrow, that they do not even
spare the narrow convoluted hearts, which are four
to iive feet long. The leaves are plucked, laid in
bundles upon a stone, and worked with a stick, till
they are split into fibres ; then they are again twisted
together, sorted anew, and laid, like coarse hemp,
in the sun to dry. The very same process takes
place with the inside bark of various trees. I got,
subsequently, in the country of the Shilluks, a small
handful of flax, which, according to my Tshauss
Marian, was prepared from the bark of the Baobab :
this tree is called in the Nuban language, Omrah ;
its fruit, however, Tabeldi. It is whiter than flax,
shining like raw silk, and feels exactly like the
latter. 7th February. — The beating of the doum- leaves
goes on again at daybreak, as if the crew wanted
to acquire enormous treasures by them in Khar
tum. It appears as if we shall remain here to
day, on account of the doum-palms and hunting.
Our encampment is an old bean-field, from which my
servants brought me, in a very short time, a number
of beans, quite young, to eat as a salad. Unfor-*
tunately I must begin to be sparing of my vinegar,
for it is truly welcome to me in these regions, as the
most refreshing restorative, although it causes thirst
afterwards, I have almost entirely renounced meat,
and live principally on coffee, biscuit and ueka. The
people cannot subsist without this dried bamie, and
therefore my men have laid in a plentiful stock. Rub?
bed to a meal on the murhaka, I have it boiled to a

142 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
thick pap, with onions and the pepper of the country.
(fillfill belladi), and I afterwards pour vinegar over
it. I remarked this morning that Arnaud noted 82°
atmospheric moisture, although the hygrometer has
entirely left off working. I made him comprehend
that this was somewhat too much here ; he took the
thing, however, as a bagatelle, and said that it would
rectify itself afterwards !
The race of the Lienns, who dwell here, is called
Kikin, and the Tshierrs live opposite. The Lienns
are friendly, and even sociable : they allow them
selves to be joked with, and take the blows with
reeds, which the sailors deal them, as play ; but do
not venture to return them. Though these people are
inclined generally to jesting, and merry scenes often
take place with our wags, during which the former
are a pattern of good humour, yet they still remain
extremely mistrustful in barter. It is not till they have
grasped the beads firmly in their hands, that they let
the goods go which are to be given for them. I re
mark that the number of the stippled lines on their
forehead is usually from three to five ; we see many
also with quite a smooth forehead. Their weapons
are better than those of the Elliabs, and they exhibit,
on the whole, more wealth, not only by their orna
ments, which, indeed, per se, are insignificant, but, in
particular, by a certain plumpness of body, denoting
better nourishment.
They bring us baskets, very neatly plaited, of
split bamboo reeds, square at the top, and protruding
spheically at the bottom. I get some bows and
arrors, perfectly similar to those of Bari. The arrows,
with wooden or bone points, are principally only des-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 143
tined for the chase, as also the spears, with barbs.
Iron is dear here, and they did not like, therefore, to
sell their javelins, some specimens of which I had ac
quired previously. They tell us that there are seve
ral lions in the neighbouring Haba, and want to
prevent us from hunting on that account. We re
mained on land to-night, with just confidence in the
good disposition of the people, as we had done pre
viously among the Elliabs, and set sentinels on the
shore. 8th February. — I repaired early this morning to
the forest, and returned in two hours, just as Arnaud
was setting out, in company with Suliman Kashef
and his men. Suliman altered his mind suddenly,
alleging, as a pretext, the heat ; and Arnaud also,
who, before sunrise, was going to slaughter lions and
tigers, composed himself very submissively to return.
The doum-palms, if they do not form a single species,
have a meagre appearance, and but little height ; the
doum-copse, on the contrary, stands very luxuriantly,
and measures sixty fingers' breadth in a fan. The
negroes have really no dome-fruit left, and the ele
phants may have had the beginning of it, and the
gleanings. The poison-trees are unusually large here.
A tree attracted my attention, by its size and
light-coloured branches, similar to those of the syca
more. Unfortunately it had lost, like the baobab,
its leaves, except a few. The ends of its boughs,
from which the leaves develope themselves, have buds
similar to those of the chesnut-trees. Marian says
that this tree is called Emeddi, and is present on all
the mountains of Nuba. According to him it has
small flowers, and little fruits of a reddish colour.

144 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
These are as large as clusters of grapes, and hang
together in the same manner, only somewhat looser,
are very sweet and eaten. The elephant-tree (in
the language of the Nubas Tihl, or also Or Omul —
Or, tree, omul, elephant) stood in abundant verdure,
with long young fruits. As I now hear, its fruit is
eaten by the Nubas only in case of necessity. If we
consider this tree, with its shady roof of leaves and
its magnificent long clusters of flowers and fruits, we
feel inclined to look upon it as the Persea, or arbor
coelestis of the hieroglyphics, and not the leafless
baobab, which is mostly a ruin without shade. In
Kordofan, the Or Omul or Tihl sheds, moreover, its
leaves, as the beautifully foliated Emeddi does here.
Another tree pleased me, which was covered with
white flowers, as if with snow. The small, pointed,
and succulent leaves are something like those of the
pear-tree, as well as the tree itself. Four white
leaves are arranged around eighteen long blue stamina.
The fruit is said to be as large as an egg, and is
eaten. The tree is called dobker, and is also in
digenous in Nuba. Among the mimosas we re
marked only taile ; sunt seems not to present itself
at all in these upper regions. Nearly all the wood
of these trees is soft, and was felled to be worked
into pulleys and other things for the vessels. As the
bark of the muddus-tree is better than all the others
for ropes, and does not appear on the great Nile, it
was eagerly sought for. I found also some cotton-
trees with small leaves, in the Haba, which lies,
tolerably high, and presents an extensive view.
Honey is found here in the ground, and on the
trees, bat the little cakes contain only a small quan-

¦SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 145
tity. A large durra-field in the Haba lies, on the
whole, high, and falls away to E. and S. ; the
soil is strongly mixed with sand. It must rain here,
therefore, for a long time, and continuously, as the
powerful growth of the trees bespeaks, because other
wise durra, even were it ever so rapid in coming to
maturity, could not thrive without artificial irrigation.
The Tshierrs live in friendship with the Lienns,
whose language they use, and have the very same
insignia of race on their foreheads. Wherever there
are boundaries, such as the river here, then there ap
pears jealousy and discord. A little slave of Selim
Capitan's begged to be allowed to throw into the
water the other boy, who was not, like himself,' a
Tshierr, hut a Lienn, because he dwelt on the other
side of the river. In other respects both these tribes
live in peace ; and yesterday a Tshierr brought us
a young slave-girl purchased from the Lienns, and
she was bought in exchange by Suliman Kashef.
We have already become too intimate with the
natives by our two days' abode for the Turks not
to commence civilising them after their manner.
At the head stands Selim Capitan, who is really
earnest about the matter ; at his side, Suliman Kashef,
who is not behind the worthy son of Crete in cultiva
tion, and likes laughing and amusement. The ther
mometer had this morning 20°, noon until three
o'clock, 27° to 29°, and after sunset 27° Reaumur.
9th February. — At half-past seven o'clock this
morning we leave our encampment, and go by the
rope E.S.E., and soon S.E. A summer village lies
at the right shore, and an island in the water, which
is low and covered with green vegetables. Two
VOL. II. h

1 46 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
tokuls are upon it, surrounded with high fish-baskets
and hedges of cut simsim, which appears to be dried
in this way. I remark on the island as well as on
the steep disrupt shores, that the lower thick layer
of earth consists of black mould, whilst the middle
stratum is red with iron particles, and the upper one
strongly impregnated with sand. The arable land
here appears not to arise from a general deposition,
but has its commencement from the slime of a lake,
and the remains of a subjacent vegetation for its
formation. The north wind has set in, and we navi
gate round the island in S.W., S.E., and S., and sail
at eight o'clock S. by E. Immediately afterwards
S.S.W., a small island before the forest on the left
shore. Eight o'clock, S.E. Here the island will
soon end. Then to S. ; solitary farm-yards on the
right and left on the low shores ; cultivation before
the rising Haba. A quarter before nine o'clock,
S.S.W. The left shore is covered with young dome-
palms, and a large widely scattered village ascends
gradually with the shore to the height of the Haba,
in which we remark a number of large dome-palms.
The margin of the shore stretches flat along the river,
and before it lies a completely shallow island, or
peninsula, whereon a quantity of fishing implements
are lying about. Nine o'clock S., then S.S.E., and
S.E. Right and left, the level land is well cultivated
with durra, simsim, and especially lubien.
The wind changes after nine o'clock to E. We
furl the sails, and halt at half-past nine o'clock, at
the left shore, after we had first gone a short tract to
E. by the rope. There is a very little isle in the
river, and near the trees on the left shore a hamlet,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 147
under which the edge of the shore is also cultivated.
From deck we perceive five other villages, of which
one is large, at a slight distance from the water. The
Haba retreats for an hour. At the right shore are
two villages, and the Haba is still further distant.
The people of the Lienns are, on the whole, poor
in ornaments and weapons, although individuals carry
two or three spears, and a bow with arrows, without
quivers, in the left hand. They have the heads of the
spears generally turned towards the ground, which
was not the case further up. This is perhaps rather
a sign of friendly sentiments than their usual custom.
They fear, as I saw yesterday and the day before,
even the smacking of the great, long whips, that the
sailors have made from bark for their amusement.
They like to look at the beating of the palm-leaves,
and then the sailors cannot forbear dealing cracking
blows right and left, with the dome-leaves, and run
ning after them. The Lienns understand a joke, and
laugh, run away, and return immediately again to
let themselves be cudgelled anew. They are great
children, who are happy at seeing us and our doings,
and playing with the soldiers, although the jests of
the latter are often rude, and at times even end with
plunder. Teu o'clock. — We proceed with the libahn E. by
S. Half-past ten o'clock. From S.E. to S.W. At
the left lie four villages, tolerably close together, and
on the right rises, at a quarter of an hour distant, a
considerable village between trees, on the gentle height
of the Haba ; before it a large level field descends to
the edge of the river. Soon again to the left round
to S. by E. A crowd of natives, amongst whom are
h 2

148 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
also some coloured red, welcome us from all sides.
Our gohr is not above fifty paces broad, but has
a strong fall. Nothing is yet to be discovered of the
main stream, and we begin now to doubt in our very
tedious voyage, whether we did see on the 6th
¦instant our old anchorage at the island of Buko.
A quarter before eleven o'clock, S.E. by S. Not far
from the right shore, a large village, near which we
hear the lowing of herds. The shore is cultivated,
and we see there some magazine tokuls, and whilst
we are going S. by E., we perceive from the deck
another large city in the Haba. Opposite, on the
left shore, some tokuls, and a numerous herd of cows.
Eleven o'clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. and E.S.E.
Half-past eleven. From E.N.E. to S.E. At twelve
o'clock we stop near some tokuls on the right shore,
to allow the crew to eat. The upper boundary of
the Bodshos, who follow the before-mentioned Kikins,
is in the neighbourhood, and the Karborahs begin
here, who also belong, with the first named tribe, to
the nation of the Lienns. They dwell on both sides
of the river, and live at war with each other. In a
quarter of an hour we move on again, and go in short
bends S. by E., E.S.E., S.E., and S.S.W. From
the deck — four villages on the right, and three on the
left. Half-past twelve o'clock. For a finger's length
to S.E., and then S. and S.W. ; a quarter before one
to S. One o'clock, S.S.E. On the left two villages seen
from the deck ; on the right an island, covered with
high grass. We must think no more of an island of
Buko, for this gohr is said by the negroes to lead up
to the mountains ; and I had therefore heard quite
correctly, at the very beginning, near the Kofon of

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 149
the Elliabs and Bohrs, where this very same thing
was said plainly enough.
If we suppose that we shall again be connected
with other arms of the Nile, for we were near such a
one on the 6th inst., which I still hold to be that of
the island of Buko, our return voyage, with the pre
sent waste of time, might become more difficult than
is expected. We should be obliged to wait for the
commencement of the hariff (rainy season), or to
seek to regain King Lakono's sympathy, which we
have forfeited. The want of good bread-corn, already
beginning to be felt, is the only thing that makes me
fear the crew would not then be induced to follow
further the White Stream beyond Bari.
The Abu Hashiff of Suliman Kashef proclaimed
this morning a punishment of five hundred blows of
the cudgel to any soldier or sailor who should be found:
to have delayed slaughtering his goats' or sheep till
to-morrow. They had collected together at different-
times, by purchase, theft, and robbery, several beasts,'
whom they were fattening with durra, to sell them:
in Khartum.
Sandbanks also appear with the increase in width
of the gohr, and render the navigation difficult. A
quarter before two o'clock, a short tract, S.S.W. and
W.S.W. Two o'clock, W. by S. A broad gohr
flows here from our arm to S.E., and makes the land
at our left a large island. We go, however, up the
stream, and wind W.S.W., where we halt at the right
shore. It is asserted very positively that we have
navigated up and down that broad gohr flowing from
here, and that therefore the continued ascending in
the gohr, in which we are at this moment, and which-

150 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
also is becoming broader, has no object. It matters
not, however, whether we are blind and do not see,
or whether we see as we wish, so that we only go
again downwards. Our river arm has suddenly here
again a width of three hundred paces. This, as well
as the depth of the water, speaks, certainly, in favour
ofthe sailors' opinion, that we are again on the main
stream. The supreme council would fain, of course,
assent to this opinion, but, to my great astonishment,
I hear it is very much feared that we shall lose our
way in another stream territory, and not come out at
all by Khartum. In order to prevent our returning
by the very same road in our gohr, I propose to navi
gate up even as far as the mountains, to set ourselves
right, or at least to find some memorials, such as a
village or natives that we had seen previously. Our
men, however, put no more confidence in what the
latter say, and the crocodiles and hippopotami give us
no intelligence. The blue-green broken corals which
we had found already in the kingdom of Bari, are
still the same here, and are preferred by far to those
of a white colour.
At half-past two o'clock a north-east wind set in,
which blew the wise council asunder. A short tract
to E.S.E. by the rope, and we sail then S.W. by S.
in a flat arch to S.W. with two miles' course. The
shores are low and only three to four feet high. The
green forest developes itself behind the slender, half-
dried reeds. A quarter after three o'clock. From
S.W. with a short bend to E.S.E. ; at half-past three
o'clock E. by N., and at four o'clock S.W. by W.
The shores have been for a long time without culti
vation, and only here and there we see some negroes,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 151
but yet there are two large villages, a quarter of an
hour distant from the left shore.
It is scarcely four o'clock when Fadl tells me from
the mast that he sees a high mountain W.S.W. I
remark its peak also immediately from the deck. To
judge by the outline of it, it appears to be the Nerkan-
jin, but I do not wish it, as I would rather see another
beautiful mountain country. Whilst we are sailing
S.S.W. a gohr issues on the right from our mysterious
river to W.N.W., and makes, therefore, the land at
our right, a large island. What a happy combination
of natural canals, and what nations may be still
drinking of this water ! A quarter after four o'clock,
S.E. by S. Right and left a village on the shores.
There are low tokuls with clay walls and square
doors : the roof consists of leaves of the dome palm.
Their large baskets are also composed of the hearts
of these trees. The village of the right shore has
many open tokuls or cattle-stalls, and enters tolerably
far into the land, where we observe several herds.
Half-past four o'clock. From S.E., with the broad
beautiful bend ofthe river to S. by E. At five o'clock
we stop opposite a large village on the right shore,
where many natives are collected. The thermo
meter, 20°, 28°, 30°, and 27° Reaumur.
10^A February. — At the first sight ofthe morning
dawn we heard the great wooden kettle-drum (no-.
gara) sounding opposite in the large village of Karbo-
rah, which instrument is beaten for amusement, as
well as for driving out the cattle. The watch-houses
of the cow-herdsmen stand in the centre of the enor
mous herd; the employment of these men may be
taken in turns like that of the night-watch. The tribe

152 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
of the Karborahs, who, as I have said before, are a
branch of the Lienns, and independent, is here like
wise not entirely stippled on the forehead. Yester
day evening we traded with them, and I received
many a pretty thing, principally of iron ; for they
dwell nearer the mountains, the source of iron wealth.
Thus, I purchased ivory bracelets, with black streaks;
bows of bamboo, with iron ends, and narrow bands of
iron ; ropes of bark, which, according to Marian, are
from the muddus-tree, and the strongest ; some hair
lines, said to be made from giraffes ; thin iron chains^
which they sling round their ribs ; but I could
neither see a kettle-drum nor an antelope-horn for
blowing. It was with much trouble that I got a sur
prisingly beautiful little he-goat, with a head like a
gazelle, although the other little goats have com
pressed noses. Selim Capitan was looked upon here
also as our matta ; and they wanted to take by force
a large elephant's tooth, which I had already bought,
to present to him, not returning, however, my thick
glass beads. Several Nile buffaloes are found in
the river — a sign in the present season of the year,
that agriculture is diligently attended to in the
vicinity. At eight o'clock, we set off from S. to S.W. ; a
quarter before nine o'clock, from S.E. by S. to S.S.E. ;
on the left a hamlet. A quarter after nine -o'clock,
S.E. ; and we sail with the good east wind immediately
again S. and S.S.W., and make three miles. Half-past
nine o'clock, S.E. Cultivation at the right side, and
a watch-house in the tobacco plantations. It seems
as if tobacco were considered, in the opinion of our
people, an article of luxury which may be taken when-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 153
ever they like, without injustice. The tobacco planta
tions are sheltered here also with reed-mats erected
on sticks three feet high, as a protection against the
scorching solar rays. Immediately again S. Dancing,
clapping, huzzaing, and young girls and women
singing on the right shore.
A quarter before ten o'clock. From S.S.W. to S.E.
The wind is very contrary, and drives us together to '
the right shore, where we make use of the rope for a
short time. The merry girls and women are adorned'
with .rings and necklaces ; only the head is shaved,
as in the other places, and they wear no rings in their
ears. They have the sitting-skin already mentioned
behind, and the narrow rahat before. Moreover,
most of them are armed with bows and arrows, pro
bably for self-defence in the absence of the men. A
quarter after ten o'clock. We sail again to S. We
remark no villages, and yet there are several people
on the right shore ; the habitations seem, therefore,
to be up the country in the Haba. It was not till after
a quarter of an hour that a large village appeared :¦
soon afterwards a second, the inhabitants of which
have collected on the right shore. About eleven o'clock
we double a little island on the right, and at the left
a broad gohr, with a strong fall, flows in from S.E. ;
near it lies a still smaller island, like a grass-shield,
bulging out in the middle, which we also leave on the
left. Half-past eleven o'clock. From S. Libahn,
E.S.E. Herds right and left; shady roofs on four
stakes. My men have bought a large wooden drum
for me, and throw it down the shore ; but several
natives, who are against the sale, jump after it, and
take it back by force ; it seems to be the property of
H 5

154 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the community. Twelve o'clock. From E.S.E to
S.S.W. In the background an island ascends.
The negroes wear frequently small animals' skins
on their heads, which hang down over the nape of
their necks. The sun has as injurious an effect here
on the former as on the vertebral columns of the
latter. A quarter of an hour later to S., and our
corpulent friend, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward
from S.W., blue and boldly, from the background
over the above-named island, near which a gohr
flows from W.S.W. At half-past twelve o'clock we
lie to at the right shore, near the same, to let the men
rest and eat. I could not tell what made me so hot,
but the thermometer shews just 33°, although this
morning it was only 20°, as usual. We only stop
twenty minutes, and the poor crew must again to the
rope, S.S.E. After one o'clock, we halt a second
time near a little island, the narrowest arm of which
we soon follow, on account of the greater depth. The
current in this canal, which has fifty to sixty paces,
is uncommonly strong. Two o'clock. — From S.S.E.
to S.W. by S., and immediately to the left S,_hy E.,
and right S.S.W. A quarter after two o'clock. — A
magnificent east wind : we shall make four miles to
S. by W. and S.S.W. ; but it slackens immediately
after casting out the log, and only refreshing breezes-
breathe through the windows. In order to get from
this place, we assist the hoisted sails by libahn. A
small island before us closes the narrow reach of our
course, which our ship, until half-past two, nearly
fills up. Three o'clock, S.E. by S, and on the right
round a corner S.S.W.? a few paces, then imme
diately left to S., where we stop a moment. " El

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 155
Bah'r kebir ! " our people are shouting on all sides ;
for they take the broad stream, wherein we are now
sailing, for the White Nile itself. An arm separates
from it to N.N.W. ; the last land on the right is
therefore also an island. We go by the left shore of
the main stream, where it winds from S.S.W. to
E.N.E. It is called here, as up the river, Kirboli,
and both sides of it are inhabited by the Elliabs ;
therefore there is no doubt that it is the main
stream. The great island just mentioned is called
Tui. We proceed at four o'clock to S.S.W., and
Mount Nerkanjin remains in a south-westerly direc
tion as previously. Half an . hour later, we go from
S.S.W. to S. ; still no village, nor familiar tree
appears ; even the sailors begin again to doubt — for
aught I care, — only forward ; so that at last it must
be resolved to wait for the rainy season. At half-past
four o'clock S.S.E. ; we halt on the sand, and no one
appears to be sure of his point, least of all Arnaud,
who cannot comprehend his own journal.
Every doubt is removed, after considerable ques
tioning of the natives ; we return a quarter before
five o'clock from this ascent, and stop above the
Kibhr, which we had come up from the White Nile,
in order to examine it, even to its issue, and had
taken hitherto for an independent mountain stream.
At six o'clock we go to the neighbouring island,
between the Nile and the gohr Kibhr. At sunset 29°;
this will be a hot night.
llth February. — We remain near the large island
of Tui, make a section of the Nile, and find the main
stream below the bay, where it divides into three
arms, a hundred and twenty-eight metres broad. It

156 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
is called here Landofb ; the Kokis inhabit its left
shore. The Lienns possess the right, together with
our island, and the shores of the gohrs, between
which is the island of Tobo. Only a few of the
latter tattoo the forehead ; some, the shoulders, as
far as the upper part of the arm ; and others, the
upper part of the back : some have also coloured
themselves with ochre.
12th February — Observations are to be made also to
day, in order to start in the afternoon. I purchase for
a few large glass beads, the first fine elephant's tooth,
and I design it, being the largest of all, as a cabinet
specimen for my country. Now, at last, it is evident
to every one, that we are navigating back our old
road. It is fortunate for me that I am able to set
up continuously and write my journal, affected as I
am with fever all the day after the hot nights. At
half-past two o'clock we bear off, and reach at half-
past four the end of the island of Tobo, near which
we land at sunset by the left shore, having made four
miles and a half with a strong current, and the stroke
of the oar. Thermometer, in the morning, 20°;
noon, 32° ; evening, 30°.
13th February. — We are to set out half an hour
after sunrise ; in the meantime the men are slaughter
ing in haste some cows, which natives of uncommon
size have brought us. We do not proceed, therefore,
till seven o'clock, in a north-westerly direction. The
river makes such short bends that we bound every
moment against the shore, notwithstanding the very
strong fall, and we tear off also a corner of the loose
earth. This, as well as the carelessness in steering,
causes the vessel to draw water continually. Nine

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 157
o'clock. We stop at the left shore, near some dome-
palms ; the water is a little deeper here, as if a broad
arm of the Nile, from E.S.E., joins with our narrow
one, or we with it. Here also they bring us cotton
for sale. Eleven o'clock. We go on with a favour
able east wind. The tokuls for dwellings are the
peristyles already described. At noon we see several
hippopotami, some of them real monsters ; these may
remain here pretty constantly, being perhaps their
hunting district, because the river is, on the whole, of
great depth in this place.
We get on a sand-bank, close to which several
crocodiles are encamped. The first of these beasts
(in truth a fearful leader) attacks the men who are
pushing the vessel off the sand-bank ; then a soldier'
jumps overboard, armed only with a hatchet (Chadan),
boldly meets it, and really drives it back into the
water. At this moment shots were fired by the
soldiers on board the vessels at the whole congrega
tion, but so badly aimed that not one remained dead
on the spot ; they all made a slow retreat into the
water, and we found afterwards, in the moist sand
on the shore, fifty-three of their eggs lying together
all of a layer. The shells were a little broken,
as if cracked, which may be caused by the sun
and the humid sand. At first I thought, indeed,
that these eggs might be near hatching; but I was per
suaded of their freshness, when the crew eat them,
roasted in ashes, with much gout. I tried also a
little one, and found the usual taste of eggs, only it
seemed to me particularly dry, and the white was
more spongy and not compact. My servants had
preserved eight of the eggs, which I put among those

158 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
found in the neighbourhood of the crocodile shot by
Suliman Kashef. I see that the latter are smaller,
but thicker and rounder than the first-named. In
general they do not exceed the size of a goose's egg,
and differ from birds' eggs, especially by both ends
being uniformly arched. When I compared these
eggs subsequently, in Khartum, with another one,
found by me lying openly in the sand of the shore of
the united stream, on our journey to Sennaar, I found
the latter to be considerably larger than those of the
White Stream. Without wishing to decide by this
on the different species of crocodiles, I remark that
the people here well know that there are such dis
tinctions. At one o'clock, we halt at the right shore,
near a pastoral village, but do not find the expected
oxen. About five o'clock we push off again, and a
Nile arm divides to N.E.; then comes another from
S.E., and winds E.S.E. This is the arm, accord
ing to the general assertion, which we previously
ascended. lith February. — We at eight o'clock, navigate,
the gohr, which is new to us, and goes from N. to
N.W. Right and left dwell the Elliabs ; also on both
shores of the gohr from whence we came. The
Tshierrs follow the Elliabs ; their boundary is deter*
mined by some dome- palms. The former made, yester
day, a marauding and murderous attack on the island-
land enclosed by the gohr, and killed several men; they
were, however, put to flight by the Elliabs, who
hastily collected, and were driven over the water, by
which they left three dead. The Elliabs mean no w to
make a great war against them, and would not, on
that account, sell us any of the few spears which these

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 159
poor pastoral people possess. The Kiehrs dwell,
according to the inquiries made by Selim Capitan over
the island, on the right shore of the Nile arm, which
we ascend, the river being also called there Kiehr,
as we have already mentioned. This circumstance
may have led Selim wrong, for the Bohrs dwell there,
as I ascertained with the assistance of my Jengah.
After a quarter of an hour, we again stop close to the
left shore, where our river-arm, called here the Kir,
flows to N.W. Hardly any people come to us, and the
few we see are dirty, covered with ashes, and without
ornaments. Their spears, small in number, are how
ever kept polished, as the negroes generally clean
carefully every thing pertaining to weapons, and iron
decorations, except when they have coloured red with
ochre their entire bodies, and then every thing they
carry on them and with them is dyed with the same
colour. We see clouds, foreboders of rain, almost
uninterruptedly in the sky. Thermometer, at sunrise,
21°; from twelve to three o'clock not more than 30°,
at sunset 29°. The Frenchmen add still more degrees,
and see also more, in order to frighten their readers
at such a country.
We go, after a short halt, to the right shore,
where there is a large cattle village, with many sleep
ing-places and plastered bee-hives, or tokuls, their
tops being lightly covered with straw or reeds: large
herds there. We navigate, with the stern of the vessel
foremost, although the captain is on deck, towards
N.N.W., and shall halt immediately at the left shore
near a little pastoral village. The red colour of the
large heaps of ashes arises only from the burnt cows'
dung. 3 o'clock. Selim Capitan has just returned

160 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
after a long voyage downwards. No water ; there
fore libahn again, back into the gohr traversed pre
viously. I procured to-day, from the herdsmen, four
heavy breakers of beads or hassaeis of ebony, without
ornament ; and I see also here old woollen morions,
of which I possess already one specimen. The French
men still keep their windows hung with curtains or
closed, so as not to be disturbed by the exterior
world. At half-past four o'clock we are so fortunate
as to enter our old gohr E.S.E., and come soon to
the old encampment (I am again ill, as I was then,)
turn the bow foremost, go N.W., and stop at sunset
to N. at the left shore. I purchase a miserable
little stool, which is rare here, from the Elliabs.
15th February. — I have received, from Selim Capi
tan, a Bohr, as drogman, but he will do nothing at
first, for he is too hungry. The river flows at half-
past six, and up to seven o'clock, continually to
N., with declinations to N.W., where a small island
appears on the right. Again N. ; on the left a large
pastoral village of the name of Uadir, belonging to the
Elliabs, or as our Bohrs call them, Alliababe. The
Bohrs possess the right shore, between whom and the
Elliabs eternal war prevails, N.N.W. : on the left a
little island. Half-past seven o'clock. Over the dry
straw of the shore on the left green copse is sprouting,
the tree- tops of the neighbouring forest. Some drops of
rain fell to-night on Feizulla Capitan's fiery brandy-
nose, as if on a hot stone, while he was sleeping on deck;
now, also, I feel some drops on my cool, pale nose.
A fine prospect ! for neither are our corn magazines
well covered, nor our cabins air-tight above, thanks
to Selim Capitan's negligence. From N.N.E. imme-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 161
diately again N.N.W. Eight o'clock. Right and
left a forest, preceded by a narrow border of the shore.
A little island on the right displays its green margin
of reeds and creepers, as we see in all of them. We
halt at the sandy right shore : the left is fertile soil,
which is also the case on the right, though only for a
short tract. Suliman Kashef"s mallem was buried
here the preceding year, and Suliman visited now his
grave under the trees. Opposite to us lies the tolera
bly large pastoral village of Kelagb, a portion of which
only I draw, because it is like all the others. Thibaut
also has applied himself to the ivory trade ; he has
just acquired three elephants' teeth. Half-past nine
o'clock. Away to N. and N.W. ; at ten o'clock, a
small pastoral village on the left, with ash-grey people.
The forest extends at one side, and was refreshing to
us, with its various tints of green. Here and there
the . sun breaks through the clouds, and casts pic
turesque gleams of light around ; I can even enjoy it,
for I feel myself again better after the very strong
perspiration I had in the night.
The Bohrs have lines on their foreheads like the El
liabs, not waved, however, like the latter, but straight,
and also, broader. The drogman has five, which
appear to consist of double lines. A quarter after
ten o'clock, N.N.W. ; to the left an islet, with flowering
creepers and reeds. We are welcomed with a song, for
this is the usual custom with the tribes below Bari.
One leads the choir, and the chorus joins continually
with "jok, jok, are o jok;" but they have several
refrains, among which their "abandejok" should not
be forgotten. At eleven o'clock N., uninterruptedly,
like our direction, with the former deviations to W-

162 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
and E., the eternal enumeration of which would only
be tiresome. I know enough of the previous ascent to
be able to control my French companions. We stop
at half-past twelve o'clock at the right shore by the
Haba, and push off at half- past one again to N.N.W.
The nation of the Bors, or Bohrs, is likewise poor,
and nothing was to be purchased from them but some
teeth, which Matta Selim Capitan appropriated to
himself. The tribes hitherto seen have, on the whole,
the same sort of weapons, although some arms are
only similar ; everywhere we see solitary spears, simi
lar to those of Bari. It seems generally that all iron
work is manufactured in that country, according to the
taste of the different tribes, which is frequently indeed
very bad, and sent away from thence ; many, however,
may have been introduced by intercourse with nations
dwelling at their side. It is a cool north-west wind.
Thermometer, Sunrise 23° to 24°. Noon 27°. A
quarter of an hour later an island five minutes long
shews itself to the left in the middle of the river. We
go N.N. W. At the foot of this island, another one,
small and low, and, as it appeared to me at first,
cultivated ; but this, however, was not subsequently
confirmed. Our course passes between yellowrand
light-green copse and other trees. Only here^ and
there, there is still a dome-palm, quite small or yoWg;
yet they probably serve for the canoes here, forVl_
observed several of these boats on the shore. Two
o'clock. N.W. An island in the centre of the river
which we leave at our right ; then N.N.W. I have
convinced myself, by new ant-hills, that these insects,
which are somewhat larger here than the common
ant, raise the earth from a depth where it is entirely

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 163
wet, black, and without admixture of sand (such as
on the level of the Nile, and in its neighbourhood), to
make their buildings durable. On the other hand, I
remember the fallen-down craters ofthe ant- hills among
the Dinkas. It is now evident to me that they
openly seek a protection against the weather by
getting under the trees when there are any in their
neighbourhood. The shores shew here already a
little oxyde earth. Half past two o'clock. From
N.N.E. to N., whereupon we halt at the right shore ;
for the Frenchmen want to go hunting.
16th February. — Thermometer yesterday evening,
24° ; this morning, 19°. I made an excursion into
the interesting forest : it lies upon slightly-elevated
sandy bottom, on which the dome-palms do not grow
so luxuriantly as in the country of the Tshibrrs, where
I counted sixty lances on one leaf, whilst here there
are only from forty-two to forty-six. I had pre
served previously a vegetable, though not knowing
the nature of its root : here the sailors grubbed up
some of the same sort, and I saw tubers on them three
feet and a quarter thick, running towards the upper
part to a round form, but appearing to branch out
below like enormous roots. Slender roots shoot from
these main tubers, and on them rises an insignificant-
looking vegetable, a foot high, covered at the top
with small oval pale-green leaves, like those of the
box-tree : the clusters of gossamer-flowers are of a
yellowish colour. It is called " Irg-el-moje" (water-
root) — in Nuban, " Otto ;" is very full of juice, but
of a nauseous, sweet taste, and is sold in Kahira. The
suckers, properly speaking, must by virtue of the soil
here, go to a great depth. Our liquorice tastes per-

164 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
haps better, owing to its dryness. The large speci
mens were cut to pieces and torn, by reason of their
softness, and in consequence of the greediness of our
crew, who are like children, and yet laugh at the
blacks. I took a specimen for myself. The beautiful
red peas or vetches were also found. This vegetable
was gathered ; but no one at first knew the foliage,
until I discovered at last a few slender tendrils of
vetches, which were still green, and hung together
with the dry peas in the pods, which were burst open.
The blacks and men of Belled Sudan make use of them
as an ornament. They are small, hard, and rough, like
beads, have a black eye, with a white and scarcely
visible line, and are called hap-el-aruss (bride-grain).
I have in my possession several of them. The andu-
rab or enderab, a large tree with willow-like laciniated
bark, is very common here : it has little green clus
ters of flowers on its lower branches, hanging in
wild disorder ; small round fruit, at present green,
and willow-like, yet truncated leaves. Besides many
other trees, such as talles, geilids, and others, there is
also a very large tree, now thoroughly leafless, de
serving notice, from its short prickles, and little
apples. Marian tells me that it has small round
leaves, which make their appearance in the hariff,
together with a white flower, and that it is called, in
the Nuban language, dakuin. The fruit is not eaten,
but gathered green, and strung round the necks of
children, as a preventive against fever and other
diseases. We do not perceive grass anywhere, and there
fore there are not any cattle or human beings ; but
there may be, perhaps, many wild beasts. Wild

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 165
buffaloes, as I had been assured previously in the
upper Haba, and several of which animals Suliman
Kashef and Capitan Mohammed Aga, the Arnaut,
with the halberdiers of the former, pretend to have
seen, are said to be frequently found here, and larger
than those of Egypt. We are more inclined to be
lieve this assertion, because it is well known to all
our blacks that such beasts often appear among the
Shilluks, Hassanies, and elsewhere. This animal is
called " Gamiis el galla."
This morning, unfortunately, a soldier was stabbed
by a Bohr with a spear, because, as I suspect, he was
about to take it away from the latter according to
the favourite Belesh manner, that is, without paying
for it. We were magnanimous, and did not take
any revenge on another Bohr, who was dragged to us
instead of the proper criminal. So likewise I see
the voluntary slaves of Selim Capitan chained toge
ther on the shore. At one o'clock we leave our beau
tiful landing-place. On the left a little village appears,
then also a Haba ; but it is too scantily furnished
with trees, and soon retreats ashamed before the mag
nificent forest opposite. After some minutes a reed
island divides the river. Then we proceed with
W.N.W., our sails swollen by the east wind, and
leave it to the right whilst we go more westerly, but
soon again N. The burning of the reeds has an
unpleasing effect to the eye, but the country rises
new-born like a phoenix from the ashes. The island
is fifteen minutes long. Half-past one o'clock. From
N.E. by E. to W. by S. A hamlet in the Haba
to the right of the shore, which is here high and
precipitously disrupt, owing to the narrow pass,

166 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
lies picturesquely. A quarter before two o'clock,
N.W., on the right a little island. At two o'clock
from N.E. to N.W. in the bend, but the Haba has
disappeared. A quarter after two o'clock N.N.E. ;
on the right an island ten minutes long. At the
end of it N.E. ; on the left an old village containing
tokuls with six to seven indentations on the roofs.
The Haba, with several dhellebs, has approached us
on the avulsed high shore ; it shews the genuine
marks of the ancient or high shores. Half-past two
o'clock, near the bend to N.W. ; on the right many
dhellebs, which are not, however, of remarkable ap
pearance, especially as the lower dry branches are
upon them. A quarter before three o'clock. From
the short E.N.E. tract to N.N.W. The forest on
the right rises upon sandy deposits of downs, some
what in the form of a hill. The sand was once de
posited, perhaps, by an unusual inundation, on the
underwood, and has remained there since that time.
The shores are still intermixed with ochre here and
there. A glistening long course before us towards
N.N.W., such as we had not had for a long time,
with the exception of the small inlets right and left ;
also a little island there. Thermometer 19° and 29°
to 30°. Three o'clock. The Haba has retreated, yet
N.N.W. On the left a small tokul village as before ;
immediately under it to the right E.N.E. and W.N. W.,
again a forest, the only break of the monotonous
shores, islands, and villages. A quarter after three
o'clock. From a short westerly direction to N.N.W.
We halt at the right shore ; perhaps Selim Capitan's
vessel draws water — yet, no ; the French gentlemen
had not come up.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 167
A quarter after four o'clock : off again, and we go
N.E. On the right side Bohrs, and on the left
Elliabs. Half-past four o'clock, N.W. The Haba
on the right rises on downs ; we see dome-palms also
on it, but upon firm, dark earth, whilst the sand lies
only on the surface. Moreover, these dome-palms are
considerably higher than the dhellbbs. Violent storms
cannot take place in these regions ; I have never
seen a single tree torn up by the wind. A quarter
before five o'clock, from N.E. to N.N.W. The
Haba remains and consoles us more than sufficiently
for the arid shore, although green reeds and weeds
struggle up here and there, and strike the roots deep
into the vivifying water.
To N.N.W., a long row of tokuls appears in
parade before us, without any other background
than the horizon. On the right a narrow arm goes
to E., and places the barren tokul-city on an island.
In the bend from N.W. to W. The tokuls have, in
part, the screen mentioned before, as the entrance ;
the sleeping-places in the neighbourhood are built of
new reeds, and sixty tokuls without sleeping-places,
and huts join them. This place, inhabited by Bohrs,
is called Jemahl. Immediately to the left also, by
N.W., a tokul- village opposite ; the lower walls,
being proportion ably high, are partly plastered with
Nile slime. The knowledge of my drogman Joi is
already at an end : he does not know the name of
this long village, lying on the margin of the river
like a crescent. Five o'clock from S.W. to N.E.
by N. I remark the circumference of a red cone of
ashes in the centre part of the broken shore : the

168 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
reeds brush the vessel, and some of them fall on the
plank before my window.
That custom of dung-fires for the encampment of
the herds already mentioned, appears very ancient;
for the earth deposited by the river lies from three to
four feet high near them. About sunset we stop,
on account of good neighbourhood, near a pastoral
village on the right shore, where the river winds
to N. The goats and sheep jump from the vessels
with delight to the green grass on the shore. We
hoped to get some oxen here, but not any were
brought us.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 169

CHAPTER VII.
THE BOHR '' JOI."  HIS TREATMENT ON BOARD THE VESSEL. — HIS
ESOAPE. — WOMEN'S VILLAGE. — PELT CAPS. — SONGS OF THE BOHRS.—
TUBERS SIMILAR TO POTATOES. — THE BUNDURIALS. — THE TUTUIS AND
KEKS. — AN ELEPHANT ATTACKED AND KILLED.  TASTE OP THE FLESH
OF THIS ANIMAL. — CHEATING OF THE NATIVES IN BARTER. — WINTER
TOKULS OR WOMENS' HUTS.— MANNER OP MAKING A BURMA OR COOKING-
VESSEL. — "bauda" again. — feizulla-oapitan's industry in sew
ing. — THE KEKS LIVE BY FISHING. — DESCRIPTION OF THE WOMEN. 
SERIOUS ACCIDENT TO THE VESSEL. — OSTRICHES AND APES. — FOGS ON
THE WHITE STREAM. — WATCH-TOWERS. — SALE SHOOTS A GIGANTIC
CRANE. — IS PUNISHED. — THE NUEHRS.
17th February. — The thermometer, hanging in
the window, which is always open, had, at about half-
past eight o'clock yesterday evening, 25 -|°, and this
morning before sunrise 23°. The sky is cloudy, and
it seems as if it would rain ; the east wind abates
the sultriness a little. At seven o'clock, from N.E.
to E. by S., and immediately northerly. A quarter
after seven o'clock, W.N.W., N.E., and then in a
bend to N.N.W. The Bohr Joi was extremely
happy yesterday evening; he had eaten so much
that he could not move : I had repaired the broken
bowl of his pipe, and he smoked my tobacco and
said, " affat" (good). Feizulla Capitan has given
him the usual slave name of " Bachit," by which he
is called and teazed on all sides. The Dinkaui Bachit,
a young soldier, who might speak to him, will have
VOL. II.. I

170 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
nothing to do with him ; therefore the fellow finds
himself deserted, and cannot answer by words the
crew, who are always laughing at him. Even
yesterday he hung down his head the whole day,
and looked on the ground, and I could not help
feeling pity for the otherwise free negro, separated
as he was from his friends. He had a handsome
head, something of a Roman nose, large eyes, a
mouth only protruding a little, and all his teeth,
except the four lower ones ; in other respects he was
thin, seemed in grief, and almost starved to death.
This might have induced him perhaps to come on
board Selim Capitan's vessel, who bound a piece of
linen as an ornament round his neck, but retained
him as a slave. Awakened from my sleep, I heard
him speaking and singing, looking with passionate
affection towards both shores. I think the poor crea
ture is taking leave of his country, or he is home-sick,
and owing to that cannot sleep. At midnight he
woke me a second time, and screamed Bohr, Bohr,
Bohr! and then, Elliab, Elliab, Elliab! adding clearly
•thereto individual names, whilst he turned himself to
those regions. He sang loud, melancholy songs, and
what appeared from the melody to be the camel-song
of the Bisharis, and then shouted wildly and loudly.
They tried to hold him fast, but he was as strong as
a lion. Subsequently he complained of pains in the
body, which perhaps arose from his dreadful gluttony,
and he gazed continually at the shores as if assistance
would come to him from thence. I suppose that he
wants to escape, and therefore I made him take off the
linen decoration, as it might be an obstacle to him in
so doing; but I got him first to rub his stomach with it,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 171
during. which operation he roared and groaned like a
wild beast, and stretched himself with both hands on
the lowered mast. Scarcely, however, was he relieved
from the attack of colic than he made a tremendous
spring over the heads of the crew right away into the
water. It was with difficulty that I prevented them
from firing at him. Feizulla Capitan did not say a
word, but put on a melancholy face, because he feared
possibly Selim Capitan's reproaches.
Eight o'clock, N.N.W., and after fifteen minutes
with a short bourse to S.S.E. and again N.W. and
N.N.W. On the right, a village, with numerous
light-coloured cows and open sleeping-places ; be
tween them, little huts for women and children,
formed like a basket, plastered with slime, and
covered at the top with entangled couch-grass, which
may serve as a covering against the weather, or as a
chimney. The north wind, which has set in, is con
trary to us, and we are, at a quarter before nine
o'clock, when we are going to the north, scarcely five
minutes from the last villages. We continually run
aground, and spin like a top from one shore to the
other, on account of the north wind, which is blowing
stronger and stronger : the ashes of the burnt grass
are carried up by the wind, and the air all around is
obscured by them. The river winds from N. towards
N.E., and at the corner on the right is a large pas
toral village, with several lowing herds ; on the left,
a tokul village, in which, on account of the north and
east wind, we do not see any of the oval doors turned
towards the Nile. A number of ugly and dirty women
with leather aprons, also boys, but no girls, stand
collected there. Above this women's village a gohr
i2

172 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
disembogues from S.W. by S„ and this is the-same
arm of the Nile that Selim Capitan navigated for
three hours, above, npar the Elliabs, and found unfit
for our voyage. We stop at half-past Jnine o'clock at
the lower end of the long pastoral vfflage extending
along the shore. An old man seizes the rope by which
we have lately been pulled, and makesus understand
that he is going to kill some cows for ua We move
on, however, for they did not come £>efore eleven
o'clock, to N.W. >
The village is called Dirbk, also Aaerbk. Three
natives were on board our vessel : thdLr felt morions
were covered over and over with sea-$iells (Cypraa
moneta), and the inside so entwined with their -hair,
that they could not take them off without cutting off'
the hair itself; therefore we could not persuade any
of them to sell us their caps. At last one man asked
a large shellful of glass beads for it. Another fellow
was brought to Selim Capitan, but he would not
resign his morion for any price, and said that he
purchased it for eight cows, and that it came
from the very distant country of Kekbss. Hence it
follows that there is a connection here with the sea.
Eleven o'clock ; a little to N.E. by N. A quarter
after eleven o'clock, with a short bend to N.W. by W.,
and N. by E. In the angle of this second sharp
bend, on the left a small pastoral village; then
N.E. The reddish-colour of the ashes seems to
arise from the natural admixture of the clayey soil,
as I convinced myself- to-day, when the men were
piling together the dung of the herds. Half-past
eleven o'clock. From N.E. to N.W. : then a Nile
arm shews itself in the bend to E., and flows south-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 173
erly. The smell of fire from the black and scorched
shores is very unpleasant, on which, however, there
are still green spots and tracts. The disrupt and
higher old shore stretches to the right, in a straight
line to N.N.E., whilst the present shore goes westerly.
A quarter before twelve. In the bend from W.N.W.
to N.E. by N. : on the left shore a pastoral village,
with sleeping-places, or inclined reed- walls, turned
towards W., and open at the top ; small basket-
huts and regular tokuls join, having roofs indented, or
rather in the form of steps.
I cannot yet get the negro Joi out of my mind, with
his melancholy melodies and Swiss home-sickness,
which lasted for hours. The sudden, wild outbreak
of the passionate feelings of man in a state of nature —
the shouting of names, and the continual repetition of
them dying away with the voice — never, never have
I heard a more affecting decrescendo! Then again his
rude speech and cries ; and then the songs, which
I took for pastoral songs, and which in part have the
very same melody, with their softly humming and
tremulous key-note as the camel-songs of the Bisharis,
heard throughout the night in the desert, only that
the former expressed the higher notes more passion
ately, where his voice often broke, but always return
ed again to the key-note. The calling individual
names, by which his heart turned even to his enemies
the Elliabs, bringing to mind his misfortune in the
dark cloudy night — every thing is still present before
me. Toffered him- glass beads; staccato and hoarse
notes alone were his answer. The Swiss style of
singing is known in the interior of Africa, as I previ
ously ascertained from hearing the young soldiers.

174 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Twelve o'clock. From N.N.W. and N.W. by
W. to N.W. The shores are no longer mixed with
sand, although there are lower imbenchings and aggre
gations : on the left, a pastoral village, where we see,
as usual, a crowd of negroes. At half-past twelve
o'clock, N.N.W. : we halt at the right shore. They
bring me small tubers, similar to potatoes, and eaten
like them ; opposite to us a pastoral village. We
bear off again at a quarter before one o'clock. At
one, from N. to N.W. : on the left, a village with old
tokuls. A very long watercourse lies before us, and
at the end of it, at two o'clock, a pastoral village, in
the form of an arch, and extending to some distance.
We double a short corner on the right, N.E. by N.,
near which we are regularly fixed, owing to the strong
north wind, which blows the spray like drizzling rain.
Thermometer, before sunrise 23°; noon 28°; now, at
two o'clock, 25°. At four o'clock we leave this pro
montory, the wind having died away, and go N.N.E.
and N. At a quarter before five the wind gets up
afresh; we go N.W. to the right shore, where we
shall remain perhaps the night. Thermometer, at
four o'clock 25°, sunset 24V at eight o'clock 22°.
1 8th February. Yesterday evening lightning, which
seemed to proceed from distant regions. We might
perhaps have heard the thunder, had not the everlast
ing noise, whicli, day and night, stuns us in the vessels,
prevented us. The sky is quite clouded over, yet the
sun penetrates tlirough. I had scarcely stood ten
minutes at the door of our cabin, before my clothes
were quite damp, although no mist had visibly fallen.
We find here many of the before-mentioned potato
like tubers, the foliage and tendrils being like those of

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 175
strawberries, but the leaf is not so rough. The tubers,
which are yet small, are level with the ground, like
those I had seen before, and I planted some specimens
in sand, A quarter after six o'clock we bore off to
N.E. to the great vexation of the crew, who were
obliged to leave unslaughtered on the shore three
beautiful oxen ; then with a short bend to S.E. by
W. and immediately W.N.W. On the left a pas
toral village with lowing cattle, and before us a forest,
veiled by a blue vapour, moves from the right side
into the monotonous landscape. In the bend again
to N.E. and N.N.E., where on the left is a pastoral
village, but without herds.
I cannot imagine when the natives drive their cattle
in and out ; for I have at all times of the day seen
the beasts tied up in the open air, near the villages,
and I have never noticed any fodder. Our presence
and their curiosity makes them, perhaps, careless in
attending to them.
Half-past seven o'clock. N.N.W., and with a
short course to E.N.E, where, on the left, a pastoral
village lies behind the shore; then we turn sharply
to N.W., where, on the left, another pastoral village
appears; at this we wind to N.N.W. We have a
gentle south-east wind, and are afraid of rain.
Eight o'clock. From N.N.W. to N.W., by N.
Some tokuls, with more elevated tops, shew them
selves on the right side, where the river immediately
goes to the right ; and at the same moment a row of
tokuls of similar construction is discovered on the left,
stretching in a falcated form along the shore. The
old tokuls have grooved roofs, reed-walls from which
the clay has fallen, oval doors, and some of them

176 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
with miserable reed-porches, and no sleeping-places.
A pastoral village follows, belonging, perhaps, to this
winter or women's village. The Elliabs inhabit both
these villages ; but few of them shew themselves, and
are called Wien.
Half-past eight o'clock. From N.N.W. to N.N.E.,
and N. by W. Below, a large village opens before
us, which the vessels a-head leave to the left. The
island, which is merely young grass, floating on the
river, only rises gently above the stream. A quarter"
before nine o'clock. At some distance from the right
shore we see from the deck a large pastoral village.
Nine o'clock. W.N.W. The forest previously re
marked has not approached nearer to us. A quarter
after nine, from S.S.W. to S.E., where the wind, for a
short space, is contrary to us ; then, on the right, to
S.S.W.; but first we see two villages lying some
what up the country on the right side. We go
E.N.E. The south-east wind has freshened splendidly, and
the log gives five miles. The shores, although very
low, are arid, and without cultivation. Right and
left are lakes, and near to the one on the left a large
village. Half-past nine o'clock ; from E.N.E., a
moment to W.N.W.; on the point to the right, where
the river bends N.W. by W., an old tokul- village ;
on the left a lake, of half an hour long, which is an
ancient river-bed, as perhaps most of them are ;
therefore the low shores divide them from us. A new
forest before us, to which we perhaps shall come.
W. by N. : on the left a wretched hamlet with mud-
tokuls; but immediately afterwards a long row of
regular tokuls, whilst below a broad gohr enters the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 177
land about N.N. W., which makes, therefore, these huts
an island-city. The people shout and bawl to us, as
if we were old acquaintances : the ambak-trees are
used here for pallisadoes and screens. But few people
are seen, and these only old men and women. The
island and village are both called Aquak, and this is the
last possession ofthe Bundurials. On the right shore
the Tutuies follow, and the Keks on the left. About
ten o'clock we stop below this city of the Bundurials.
In the middle of the river a small island lies ; level
low country, with narrow pools, and behind it the
Haba lie opposite to us, about half an hour distant.
I despatch two servants to the village, to make some
purchases, but the women seize large pieces of ambak-
wood, and will not allow them to enter their harim
city. Half-past twelve o'clock , off again to N.E., and
immediately on the right to E., where the violent east
wind throws us, for amusement, on the left shore.
One o'clock, N.W., then soon E.N.E., and a quarter
before two, in the bend N.E. and N.N.W. From the
deck, we perceive two villages on both sides. Two
o'clock, N. by E., in the bend further to N.N.E. ; on
the left a pastoral village, then to the left N.W.
How it delights my heart to think that the favourable
south-east wind brings me every moment nearer to
Khartum — to my brother ! Half-past two, N. and
N.W. by N. : a pastoral village at the left ; a
quarter before three, N. _by N.E., and round the left
to N.W. Three tokul villages in the country to the
left. Three o'clock, W. ; on the left shore a pas
toral village ; before us, in the distance, a forest.
From the deck, I see behind the last-named village
i 5

178 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
another pastoral one. A quarter after three o'clock,
with a short bend to N.N.W., where a black tokul vil
lage, behind the shadow of heavy clouds, looks like an
old castle with several pinnacles, until the latter disap
pear, and a row of forty-five tokuls is formed. A
small gohr enters below to N.N.W., which, as seen
from the deck, widens, and has a tokul-village in its
neighbourhood. Another little gohr to the left,
from N. to N.E., connected with the preceding one,
leads probably to a lake, for the left shore hardly
rises above the river. The right and blackened shore
is also scarcely four feet high. A quarter before four
o'clock, from N.W., in a bend along reeds standing
in water, whicli, being slightly rustled by the south
east wind, strike leaves and sprout, such as I have not
seen for a long time : to N. where a long shining road
extends before us. On the right two islets, verdant
like the new-born low country of the right shore;
another larger island joins the second for a few paces,
and a fresh one is united to it close to the shore, which
appears here again to be scorched. On the left
some other green bushes of reeds are standing, and
behind them, we perceive from the deck a tokul-
village. Four o'clock; from N.W. to W. by N. ; on
the left a pastoral village, and then N.N.W. The
forest, about an hour distant from the left shore,
where a pastoral hamlet stands, stretches from S. to
W. To my joy, young reeds extend from the right
corner, in a long bend with the river to N.E.
Half-past four o'clock, again in a long bend from
N.E. to N.N.E., N. and N.W to W.S.W., where we
stop at five o'clock at the right shore. A large lake
lies at our side ; behind it, another one is incredibly

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 179
enlivened by millions of birds, amongst which there
are several pelicans. I have never heard such a noise
and fluttering of flying birds, as I did here when on a
shooting excursion. Thermometer, before sunrise,
20° ; noon, 27° ; three o'clock, 29° ; eight o'clock in
the evening, 24°.
19th February. — We navigate, at seven o'clock,
from N. on the right, to N.E., and have soon to con
tend with a contrary north wind. On the left we
remark two of the narrow gohrs or natural canals,
serving, at high water, as channels to the lakes, from
which they are now disconnected. On the right, as
yesterday at noon, Tutuies ; on the left, Keks. A
quarter before eight o'clock. From N. to E. Here
and there we see the negroes holding a stick,
covered with a skin of long hair, which appears to
be a battle -standard ; they carry it always erect
when they return from war.
Eight o'clock. N.W. On the left a long tokul-
village of the Keks, with ambak-hedges, instead of
the solitary little court-yards of the houses ; the
sleeping-places open above, and plastered below. We
no longer perceive magazines erected on stakes : the
people here never seem to think of the morrow. On
all sides uncultivated soil, and that has been the case
for some time. Nature must provide the necessary
bread-corn and other fruits, without any exertion of
men, or the people must live principally on the pro
duce of the chase, and fishing.
Half-past eight o'clock. From N.W., with a short
bend to S.E., yet only for a few paces ; then again
right round to N.N.W. We do not remark that
the water has fallen ; it seems to be in its usual shal-

180 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
low state. Young grass in the water at all the
corners of the river or shores, and also to the right of
our bend. The marsh-regions, with their noxious
moisture and numerous glow-worms, are close to us.
Yesterday evening, the hollow sound of the drum
foreboded their approach.
Nine o'clock. To N.N.W. On the left a Haba,
a quarter of an hour distant. A quarter after nine
o'clock. N.E.; and immediately we double a flat
green corner in the bend to S.W., and a very short
tract S., where there is a narrow pass. Half-past
nine o'clock. N. E. On the left a wretched hamlet,
and a large lake in its neighbourhood, with numerous
birds, separated only a few paces from us. Ten
o'clock, N. ; and to the left, round a green half-moon,
to W.S.W. Half-past ten o'clock. Again round a
verdant margin of the shore to the right, N.W. A
quarter of an hour later we halt about N.E. ; and I
accept Suliman Kashef's invitation to dinner. To
my joy he talks a good deal of my brother. The
Keks have brought some more teeth; but not one
fell to my lot, in spite of all my endeavours. About
half-past one o'clock, we bear off again to N. and
N.E. The Elliabs possess here also a tract, and like
wise the Keks; the Tutuis dwell more up the
country. Half-past one o'clock, W.S.W. ; then
shortly S.W., and a quarter before two, to W.,
where the Haba below seems to be close to the
shore, and on the left side it is scarcely half an hour
distant ; on the right a pastoral village.
Two o'clock, N.W. by W. On the right bank
some men are employed constructing a miserable pas
toral village on old red ashes ; behind I see refreshing

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 181
green grass, but that on the shore is either dried up
or burnt away. A second pastoral village is being
erected immediately on the right; the commence
ment of it consists here of solitary sleeping-places :
stakes, and heaps of ashes are lying about in large
quantities. The pasture seems to be a dried-up
marsh-lake, as our landing-place in the middle of the
day also was, where gazelles and elephants were
sporting in the high grass on the still moist ground ;
but I could uot even get a shot at the former. A
quarter after two o'clock. On the left withered am-
bak, and the neighbouring forest seems to approach to
the shore ; on the right a pastoral village, and a long
tokul-village joining it, with and without porches. Sale
jumped to my window, and shouted " Kawagi ! tali
barre, shuf uachet fill fok el bah'r"! (" Master,
come out, and look at an elephant on the shore ! ")
"Kawagi?'' properly speaking, being merchant, and
the title for every Frank; " fol el JaAV" means
literally, over the river. And the whole crew
were all upon the move to see the elephant. I
went up also on the deck of our cabin, and perceived
the dark-grey monster, throwing first his trunk on
the earth, and sending up clouds of dust, and then
lashing his body with it. A semicircle of negroes
were gradually approaching him, having spears in
their hands ; but they fled from us, their best friends,
when we landed. Suliman Kashef soon opened a
platoon fire, and I repaired immediately with Sale in
the direction of the elephant, who was looking around
and preparing to attack the crowd of people. The
balls seldom whistled by him, for the mark presented
two large a volume to miss ; and the distance, short

182 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
as it was, was diminished to a few steps by the
bloodthirsty circle surrounding him.
He extended his ears up and down like the opening
of an umbrella, not so much from pain, as from the
balls raining on them, and sticking in the ear-laps, as
we found afterwards, having only penetrated one skin.
He was already blinded by the shots, for in elephant-
hunts they first aim at the eyes, and few missed, or
else he would have made his way to the Nile by
instinct, to preserve himself for a time. Suliman
Kashef knelt down and sent another rifle-ball at his
orbits ; he fell — the men rushed at him, but he rose
once more, when they all started back, tumbling one
over the other to escape being trodden under his
feet. At last he sat on his hind-quarters, stretched
forth his fore-feet, and died in this half-standing
posture. I could not have shot him myself so close,
fbr the blood running from his eyes and numerous
wounds moved my compassion too much to do so ;
even Sale said to me, in a melancholy tone, " El
messkin !" (the poor creature). I ordered him to cut
off the animal's tail ; for the Keks, to whom Suliman
Kashef had presented the flesh, as a set-off for the
beautiful teeth, had already buried their knives in his
body. Sale hesitated a moment, because the awful
sight of the beast made him fear that it might possibly
stand up again. Seven spear-heads were found in the
flesh under his skin, and he had swam over with
these sticking in him, from the opposite shore, where
he was first hunted. I had already embarked, when
it struck me that the foot of an elephant was con
sidered a dainty, and I sent, therefore, a servant to
fetch me one ; but he brought instead a large piece of

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE.

183

the ear, as a proof that he had really gone back, for
the people of this country seem to know what is good
as well as the Europeans at the Cape of Good Hope.
Our black soldiers, however, had brought flesh on
board, which I afterwards tasted, but did not find
very relishing.
A quarter after five o'clock we leave the spot, and
navigate to N.W. by N. On the right a small
encampment for cowherds ; on the left burning reed-
straw. The leaves of the elephant-tree, which I had
placed in my window, have withered since the morning,
though from the 6th instant, therefore for thirteen
days, they had been exposed to the sun andair, and had

UOOHT COEES

MOONTAIN CHAIIJ OF
K&QEIitT.

MOUHT KONKOSIH

COUNTRY ON THE LEFT SHORE OF THE NILE PROM THE ISLAND OF
TSHANKER TOWARDS WEST. 27tH JANUARY, 1841 .
not only remained fresh and green, but also seemed to
shoot forth vigorously, and even to grow, whilst the
fruits became every day more and more shrivelled.
The juice of the latter might, perhaps, have nourished
the leaves by returning to them ; the stalk between
the wood and the leaves being injured by the wind
blowing it against a nail, shewed plainly that it had
lost its sucker. A quarter before six o'clock, N. by

184 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
W. ; close to the left a large lake ; on the right
a reed fire. We wheel here on the left to the W. ;
the surface of the earth is very low on the right and
left ; the lakes, therefore, are not all dry, but con
siderable rain must fall to make them overflow, unless
they have auxiliary canals from the river. A tokul-
village before us to the W., near which we shall per
haps stop, in consequence of the horizontal smoke,
and the smell of the meat connected therewith. A
floating island is at our side ; the elephant may have
torn it from the shore in crossing. Six o'clock,
W.S.W.; we ride at anchor in the middle of the
river, and have the village at our right. Thermo
meter, before sunrise, 19°; noon, 27°; one o'clock,
28° ; two o'clock 30" ; eight o'clock in the evening, 25°.
20th February. — At 8 o'clock we navigate N.W.N.
then N.N.W. A quarter after eight o'clock. N.W.
by W . We sail with a faint north-east wind : to
the right a pastoral village, to the left the Haba,
nearly a quarter of an hour distant ; the shores low ;.
then N.W. by N., and again in the bend on the
green margin of reeds to N., and on the left to
W.N.W. Nine o'clock. We stop at the left shore,
for the strong north-east wind is contrary to us in
our course from N. to N.N.E. Five o'clock. The
whole day I have been in bed, for I became so ill
this morning, shortly after our departure, that I could
not sit upright, and therefore I wished very much for
wind and rest.
It is difficult to bargain with the blacks : they
take the glass beads, and the barter seems closed ;
but they immediately seize the goods which they
have already given us, and require more sug-sug.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 185
The following circumstance happened to me, when
I was a short distance from the vessel with one of
my servants. I had bought a large elephant's tooth,
and a chief refused not only to return the beads,
but even tried, with his men, to take away the tooth
from my lusty cook, Sale Mohammed, by force, and
to sell it again ; whereupon I got angry, and struck
him on the face with the flat part of my hand : he
stood as if petrified, but afterwards went away with
out laying a hand on me.
Although the wind is still contrary, we navigate,
immediately after five o'clock, with libahn, to
N.N.E. by the right shore. The real cause of our
departure arose from Thibaut having gone ahead, to
purchase ivory, which the Turks will not permit.
We work to N. till a quarter before six, and in a
bend to W., where on the right is a smoking pastoral
village, with several small plastered summer tokuls.
We sail delightfully from N.W., to N.N.W., the wind
being favourable. A short tract to the left S.S.E.
and then immediately to the right, N.N.W. We see
again vessels surrounded by reeds, where we could
not have supposed them to be. The river here seems
to take delight in tedious and disagreeable bends.
We halt after sunset at the right low shore, where,
at some distance, I perceive an ambak thicket ; but
I am too weak to fetch seeds, and my men imme
diately jumped ashore with gun in hand. Thermo
meter, at sunset 27°; noon 29° to 30°; sunset 27°.
21 st February. — Half-past seven o'clock. From
N.W. to N. and N.W. by N: on the right a con
siderable pastoral- village with larger tokuls, and plas
tered sleeping-places ; the latter slightly diminishing

186 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
towards the top. Saw men stand near these summer
tokuls, the roof of which rises only a little, and on -the
average, their heads are of an equal height with the
tops of their huts, and some even tower above them.
We stop at a quarter before eight o'clock between
this pastoral and the succeeding women's village,
where the river flows northerly, and wait for cattle to
be killed. The Kbks dwell on both shores, and the
Tutuis up the country on the right side, who live at
peace with the former.
The winter-tokuls, or women's huts, appear from
the river far higher than they really are, for they
mostly stand on the slightly elevated margin of the
shore. After repeatedly measuring them, I find that
they are from eight to eleven feet high, including the
lower walls, which are always from three to three feet
and a half. The roof is in from five to nine uniform
grooves, for the straw is not sufficient for the length
of the roof. The small tokuls of the pastoral villages
are, on the average, from six to seven feet high, in
cluding their walls, which are four feet, or something
more ; those of the sleeping-places are as high as
the reeds themselves, namely, about ten feet. To the
great diversion ofthe crew, a young woman here also
wanted to drive us to the right side, because our
vessel lay at anchor before her harim.
I watched a friendly-looking woman making a
burma (or cooking apparatus), and putting the finish
ing stroke to it : she rounded the outside of the
earthen pot with water, and to get the little hoops on
it, she had a thick, strongly-twisted piece of pack
thread, of a span in length, which she rolled over the
smoothed places. As far as I could learn from her,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 187
these vessels are made merely by hand, although it
might be supposed, from the beautiful large vessels of
the Shilluks, that a potter's wheel was used. The
people here display as little friendly feeling towards
us as those yesterday. I manage to get, however, a
thick fluted hassaia of ebony, besides some small
elephants' teeth.
Ten o'clock. At last a miserable cow was pre
sented to us, and we proceed W.N.W., a quarter of
an hour later, S.W., although only for a very short
tract, and immediately N.N.W. We continue to
have on the left, green reeds in the water ; and the
shore on the right is scarcely two feet high.
Eleven o'clock. From N.W. to N. ; in half an
hour from S.E. and N.E., with a short bend in
W.N.W. to S.S.W.; then on the right a short
tract N.E. by N., and again N.N.W. The shores
are scarcely elevated above the river, and therefore
numerous lakes must be formed. I remarked, yester
day, crown-rushes (papyrus antiquorum), which were
still green, as well as ambak-thickets, seeds of which
plant I took this morning ; its leaves were already
brown, and the tree itself in a dying state : there were
not any young shoots from the roots to be seen, nor
from the seed thatxhad, fallen in the preceding year ;
the latter lies therefore a year, and perhaps till the
next rainy season, in the ground, and then during
the time of high water, springs up with incredible
vigour to that height, which, upon this slightly elevated
ground, was only twenty feet ; but in our ascent I
remarked it double that height on a low island in the
river. Twelve o'clock. From N., to the left N.W.
On the right a pastoral village, and immediately right

188 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
to N. in a bend. The river is narrow, for the
grass has grown into it.
" Bauda, bauda ! " the crew screamed the day be
fore yesterday, — a dreadful word, in truth. Hitherto
we have only seen a few of these horrible mosquitoes,
but in their stead a quantity of other s'tinging insects.
From N. immediately to the left, W.N.W. and a
short tract N.W. by N. The north wind has been
long contrary to us, but has not been particularly pre
judicial to our voyage. Half-past twelve — From
N.W. to W.N.W.- and W ; for a moment N., and
in a short bend to S.S.W., where it winds to W.
One o'clock. — About N. ; a broad arm of the Nile
flows to W. We halt for a moment here by the
island. About S.E. by S., the mouth of another
gohr going from E. is seen ; it discharges itself partly
into the main stream to W , and partly flows to S. W.,
and forms another island. The careless sailors have
allowed the vessels to be thrown into this arm of the
Nile, and are now working to come to the W. into
the main river.
Half-past one. From W.N.W. left to S. Little
ambak-woods on all sides, but not having their fresh
verdure ; also crown-rushes, seeds of which I have
not yet been able to procure. A quarter before two.
From S. and S.W. to the right, shortly round to
N.N.W. and on to N.E. Two. From N.E. to the
left round to N.N.W., then to the right a few paces
to N. A quarter after two. From N. and N. by E. :
on the right some negroes, who remain in a very quiet
posture ; to the left W.N.W. Half-past two. W. by
S., where we have a tolerably long road before us,
then W.S.W.; on the right a small summer village. A

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 189
quarter of an hour later N.E. by E. and N, and so in
a bend further to N.E. Three o'clock. From N.N.E.
to N.N.W. ; the low shores or young water-reeds and
ambak thickets still continue. We see even now seve
ral reed-fires, but the people appear, since our ab
sence, to have burned the reeds very well, for a quan
tity of green grass is seen sprouting up from the
scorched soil. On again in a long bend to W.S.W. ;
on the right a pastoral village with little tokuls, hav
ing roofs more pointed ; on the left also a similar
one ; then at four o'clock, opposite the bend in N.W.
at a little distance, a large lake, and behind it *the
Haba. The natives sing a little, but remain quietly
sitting. A quarter after four, from N.N.W. to the left
towards W., then with a short bend to the right
N.N.E. ; at this sharp corner a small pastoral village,
near which we halt at the right shore. About south
from our landing-place a large lake, where the river
winds from N. to N.N.W. on the left shore immedi
ately behind the green reeds. The natives have all
fled except one, who remains close to us ; probably
the fame of our love for slaves has preceded us. Ther
mometer, before sunrise 20° ; noon and afternoon 28°
to 30° ; sunset 28° ; eight o'clock 26°.
22nd February. — We have waited since yesterday
evening in vain for- Selim Capitan and Arnaud, who
have struck into another arm of the river. At nine
o'clock this morning! we see their mast at a distance :
they came up and we started at ten o'clock from
hence, where a large summer village is in the course of
erection. We row strenuously, for the north wind is
contrary. From N. to. N.N.E., and at half-past ten
to N. and N.N.E., and immediately to W.N.W,

190 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
A quarter before eleven E.N.E., and immediately
N.N.W. Fei'zulla Capitan had epileptic attacks to
night again, perhaps arising from the tension of the
nerves of his fingers, for he has fabricated a tow-rope
for Suliman Kashef, and worked at it till late at
night, as he has done previously when engaged in
sewing. Eleven o'clock. From N.N.W. to N.N.E. ; an arm
of the Nile flows in on the right — the very same one
navigated by Selim Capitan and Arnaud. To the right
a pastoral village on the head-land ; we put into land
near it. Two o'clock ; we leave the place, for the
natives will not approach us. From N.N.W. imme
diately to N.N.E., and a quarter of an hour later
with a short curve to N.W. The negroes here
wear only narrow ivory rings. From N.W. to
N.N.W., and at half-past two, from N. in N.E. by
E., to E. by N. The shores are either a green margin
of grass, encroaching on the water, or if they be dry,
about two feet high, and behind them are ambak-
thickets, or crown-rushes, striking leaves, or dying
away, according as they are in low or high ground.
Three o'clock; further on in the bend to W.S.W.,
and again round the right to W. and N.W. by W.
There is not a man, house, hut, or cattle in these
marshy regions, from which I myself shall only be
too glad to escape. A quarter after three o'clock,
N.N.W. ; to the right a pastoral village : we really
see human beings, but they appear very listless, and
even the women remain quietly standing amongst
them. Opposite, another village ; also negroes, but
no herds. Half-past three, N. ; on the right a
pastoral village. We proceed slowly N. by S., and

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 191
N. by W., yet generally N. ; and a quarter before
four, N.N.E. Here and there still there are floating
islands ; with a short bend N.W., and N.W. by W.
to W.N.W. On the right a lake ; and at four
o'clock in a gentle bend to N.N.W., then round
a corner, N.N.E., and E. by S. but immediately again
W.N.W. to S. by W. Half-past four, W.S.W ;
on the right a pastoral village smoking vigorously,
yet we do not see any herds. A quarter before five,
from S. by W., shortly round N.N.W. to N, and to
the left in N.W. At five o'clock again to the right,
N.N.W. ; on the left hand a pastoral village, from
N.E., immediately N.N.E., N., and N.W. ; in a bend
further on to S.S.W. Half-past five, from S.S.W. in
W., W.S.W., where a small pastoral village appears
on the right, to N.W.
For some days we have been without fowls and
sheep on our vessels, and we shall not, perhaps, pro
cure any meat till we arrive at the so-called, " Cannon
place," where the eighteen Nubas of Darfur sought
their way to freedom with only six guns. A
quarter before six o'clock from N.W., shortly round
to W., and in a bend to S. and S.E. by S. Six, S.,
and immediately in W.N.W to N., from whence we
navigate to the left round a corner. After six o'clock,
in a bend to S., and here again round a neck of land
immediately to N. Some trees, harbingers of a finer
country, have shewn themselves just now. A large
lake secluded by palings, and perhaps, therefore, sub
sequently furnishing the natives with fish, is noticed
at about fifty paces up the right shore. Here we
make for land. Thermometer, before sunrise 1 7,° noon
29 to 30°

192 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
2'6rd February. — We navigated this morning to
the left shore, whereon there is a scanty Haba, in
order to fetch wood and make observations. I walk
ed to the neighbouring Haba, where I saw men in nine
fishing-boats, catching fish. The lake is from forty
to fifty paces in the low ground, where it stands on
an equal level with the Nile, and enclosed with am
bak hedges, from W. to S.E. It is a remnant ofthe
primitive bed of the stream, perhaps itself a river-bed
lately deserted, and surrounded on one side by the old
shores of the Haba, which are here only five to six feet
above the water, and form also the ancient left shore.
From what I could see, it is about three to three and
a half hours' long, by two hundred to three hundred
paces broad. It seems to derive its water from the
river, and to fill with the latter, but also to supply
a mass of water to it in the rainy season. It winds
to S.S.E. and appears to go still further eastward.
The Keks live here very comfortably, merely on the
fish they catch ; but with the exception of that, they
are very poor. Yet they came as proudly to us with
two goats as if they had brought twenty fat oxen.
They do not seem to possess cows at all, and they
may be perhaps the Icthyophagi of the enclosed lake.
However, we got seven elephants' teeth, the value of
which they apparently did not know, by the assist
ance of our interpreter. The Kek women let the hair
grow a little : the lines on their forehead extend to
behind their ears ; but they are fine, and frequently
invisible on account of the dirt.
Front and back aprons, as usual ; at times, how
ever, we see the little rahat, or even the leathern apron
over the rahat, clearly a luxury, which the wife of

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 193
Lakono also indulged in. Besides this, these women
have a very charming appearance owing to their
chewing tobacco. There is another couple of poor
villages in the neighbourhood of this place, and the
men are said to have fled from it, taking their oxen
with them. A quarter before five o'clock we navigate
at last to the north : the Haba retreats immediately to
a distance. On the right a little pastoral village, from
whence we receive the two goats mentioned above.
A quarter after five, to the left, N.W. by W., where
there is a Haba ; soon afterwards to the right N.N. W .
The higher shores have disappeared with the Haba.
The whole surface is scarcely two feet above the river.
On the right young reeds and reed-grass.
At this moment our vessel received from below a
tremendous shock : the crew cry " Chamiiss, chamass ! "
and laugh ; but they very soon put on a serious coun
tenance, for the bottom of the vessel was already full
of water. The barrels of gunpowder, grape-shot, and
cartridge-boxes were taken out, five signals of distress
having been first fired ; and they were about to con
tinue firing blank shot, for the water rushed in as if a
leak were sprung, when the bold reis Abdullah, a
Kenuss (the reis are generally all Keniiss, because
they are well acquainted with the cataracts), went
under the vessel with a ball of tow : this took place
close to the shore, to which we were not able to
approach within ten paces, and where there was still
great depth and danger. The hole, however, was
stopped by the brave and incessant exertions of some
sailors and soldiers. I myself put out the fire on the
hearth, and forbad smoking under the threat of in
stantly shooting any one who did so ; for I was to act,
vol. n. K

194 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
in the absence of Feizulla Capitan, as wokil : and at
the same time I posted sentinels. The vessels sailing
a-head did not stop at the signals we fired, although
they were near enough to hear them ; and we ourselves,
then, at half- past six o'clock, navigated to N.N.W.
Subsequently we go to the left, W.S.W., then to the
right, where we halt, together with the other vessels,
immediately in the bend at the left shore, at a former
landing-place (matrag betal mutfa), after we had
jostled our beak-heads together in the usual unskilful
manner. 24£A February. — Our vessel has a large hole, and
we are' obliged to be drawn by the prow upon the
sand : all the goods were removed, but afterwards
safely put on board. Sabatier makes the observations
now, and Arnaud is said to be employed with the
calculations, for which, therefore, we shall have to
wait a long time. Several ostriches were seen )'es-
terday by my servants and Suliman Kashef's body
guard, without a single well-flavoured leg falling to
our lot : they had remarked, also, an ape the size of a
large dog. I asked whether it was a chirt, which
species answers to our zoological ideas of the cyno-
cephalus and cercopithecus ; but they assured me that
it was an abelbnk, because it had a small head.
25th February. — A quarter before seven o'clock,
to N.N.E., and slowly, N.E. by E. The ther
mometer, since three in the morning, at sunrise, has
been but 1 7° ; and did not rise from noon to three
o'clock, above 29°- In the evening we see the sun
disappearing in the dense atmosphere, which lies
heavily on the whole of this country ; and this
morning it rose either from behind the mist, or

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 195
covered with clouds. The evaporation from the
neighbouring stagnant waters has an injurious effect
upon the health of the crew, and consequently they
are nearly all afflicted with a violent cough. The
difference between this region and the clear mountain
air and pure water of Bari is very great. The fogs
here are seldom so thick as in Germany or England :
but they penetrate through the skin, which has be
come sensitive from the heat, as, for example, this
morning. Seven o'clock. — N.N.W. On the left hand a large
lake, close to us, in the green reeds, connected per
haps with the river, and indisputably an ancient
bed of the river, cutting off the corner to the
left, which we shall hereafter double. Half-past
seven o'clock. N.W. We go till half-past eight
o'clock in a northerly direction, and halt in N.N.W.
at the scorched right shore. This is here six feet
high, whilst, a hundred paces up the Nile, behind the
young water-reeds, no elevation of the shores is ob
served. We remark no strata of earth on our shore,
but clay and humus are closely mixed. At nine
o'clock we navigate further, without the lust of our
crew for meat being gratified, for the people seem to
have driven away their goats, and they have nothing
else. N.N.E. The north-east wind slightly retards
our course. Half-past nine o'clock in a bend round
the green couch-grass, N.N.W. ; a short tract N.W.
by W., and round the right to N.E., rowing strenu
ously ; then, at a quarter before ten, to N.N.E. The
wind becomes stronger, and all the singing in the
world will not help us, if the river do not take a
contrary direction, of which there is some appearance. K 2

196 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Ten o'clock. N.N.W. We sail five miles. N.W.
and W.N.W. A quarter after ten o'clock from
W.N.W. in N. by W., where we were obliged, un
fortunately, to furl the sails. Immediately beyond
N. to N.N.E. Half-past ten, N.N.W. ; a quarter
of an hour afterwards W., and round a short, verdant
grass corner, from E.N.E. to E.S.E.
The ants are of the greatest service here, for they
throw up the hills, which serve the people as watch-
towers, from which they look for their strayed friends
and cattle. Half-past eleven o'clock. W., and im
mediately, in a short tract, to N.N.E., and also to
N.N.W,, and directly again to the right — slowly,
owing to the contrary wind. At twelve, N.E. by
E. and E., where we halt at the right shore of the
reeds, to wait for Selim Capitan. Two o'clock. — Set
off to S.S.E. My men bring me three short-haired
sheep in the sandal — a thing now seldom met with —
and a motley, decorated gourd-shell. A quarter
after two. From E. to the left, a short way to
N.N.W., and again to the right N.N.E. ; also, at
half-past two, a few paces to N. by W. and N.N.E.
Immediately round a sharp grass-corner S.S.E. ;
then, a quarter before three, in the bend beyond E.
and N. to N.W. by W. ; on the right, up the country,
a large village, and W.S.W.; again a village in the
neighbourhood. The river winds to the right, W.
We have hoisted already our fore and after-sail, as if
we had to go again N.E. with a contrary wind. In
the bend to N.N.W., on the right, a village upon a
little hill, which I sketched; then N. Half-past
three'. At the right a gohr, going to E., and then S.
N.W. We halt immediately at the right shore.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 197
26th February. — Departure at half-past eight
o'clock, N.N.W. My three sheep, which were in
the meadow on the shore, ran away whilst my men
were cutting reeds, from which Venetian blinds are
said to be made in Khartum. We sail with a south
west wind, and make five miles. A quarter before nine
o'clock, from N.W. to N.N.W. and W.N.W.;
again to N.W. Nine o'clock N., a small tract1 to
N.E., and in the bend shortly to N., when the sails
are reefed. Half-past nine. — From W.S.W., for a
short time in W. N.W. and N. ; some large hippo
potami shew themselves, and we begin now to fear
for the vessel. We sail with five miles' rapidity
A quarter before ten o'clock, N.N.E. Some ne
groes have just come to the left shore, — ashes their
ornaments, ashes their clothing. Ten o'clock. — For
a moment to S.W. by W., and shortly round the
green corner of the right shore to N.N.W. This
winding costs some trouble, for the wind blows the
vessel right round. Half-past ten, W.N.W. — Ambak
being still green as it nearly always is in this Holland
kind of country, covers all the right side at a slight
distance from the shore: in a little bend to N.N.W.,
then round an obtuse corner, W. by S. A quarter
before eleven W., and in a wide bend to E. Eleven.
Likewise from E. to N.W., then W.N.W. The
shores are generally elevated only two feet above the
water, wherein a grass margin intrudes ; behind, every
thing is burnt away, and therefore the ambaks are
withered, unless they stand in a protecting marsh. A
quarter before twelve. — N.W. on the left hand, a large
and long-scattered village on a high tract, and a little
upwards a considerable lake, with a similar village,

198 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
connected with the Nile by a ditch. Natives squat
on the shore and hold up their hands. Twelve o'clock.
To N. A quarter after twelve from N. by E., in
a bend N.W. The lakes, which I generally take to
be old beds of the river, retaining water even in the
dry season, are a proof that the primitive stream has
gone far deeper, and that even the present bed of the
river, with which they are partly connected, must
have risen as well as the whole country ; because, had
it been otherwise, they would have ebbed away.
Half past twelve.— From N.W. to N., N.N.E. and E.
One o'clock. — S.E. in an arch to N., and round a
little corner to N.W. ; on the right a tokul-village.
Half-past one o'clock N., and a quarter before two
N.N.E., then on the left to W.S.W., and on the right
to N.N.W. and N. by E. ; at two* o'clock further to
N.N.E. and N.E. by E. A quarter after two, N.W.
by N. ; on the right a broad river arm coming from
S.S.E. From the mast they tell me that it is a
gohr cul-de-sac, and therefore an ancient bed of the
stream filled up from below. We halt at the right
shore, for Arnaud wants to survey it ; but he lies
down to sleep, and we bear off again without having
effected our object. At a quarter after three, N.N.W.,
and directly round the right, E.N.E. ; to the left a
little W., and then N.N.W. and N.N.E. Four
o'clock.— Again N.N.W. and W. S.W. The wind
ceased even at noon ; it had been of little service
to us. The floating islands of creepers are still the
order of the day ; but not so large and numerous as
in our ascent.
A quarter after four, W.N.W., in a flat arch to N.
by W. The north wind having now set in delays us

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 199
exceedingly. Five o'clock, N N.E., a long road
before us. We go at six o'clock to the right
shore, where the river winds N.N.W. I go upon
deck, but feel so enervated by continually sitting,
that I do not venture into the half-burnt high grass
on the shore, where our sentinels, as usual, have their
posts ou the ant-hills, as a measure of precaution
against the desertion of the soldiers, as well as any
Sudden attack of the natives. Thermometer at sun
rise, 17°; noon, 29°; without getting up any higher.
2*lth February. — At half-past seven we set our
selves in motion to N.N.W., and soon N.W. Not a
negro is to be seen here : the country appears, even
at a distance, to have no population or settlement.
Perhaps Nature thinks fit to give a long preparation
to these regions, in order to elevate the alluvial
deposits for the habitation of man, and to form the
stream territory, and thus to realise the principles of
humidity ; or all this land is subject to a deluge, and
tracts, which are now deserts, have become dry.
Truly it might be the work of thousands of years to
dry up an inland sea, such as that between the moun
tain terrace of Fazogl, and the mountains of Kordof an,
towards the sources of the White Stream, — to extend
it, with unknown ramifications, through the moun
tains of Bari to Habesch and Darfur, or Fertit, &c,
and at last to break down at the Nile valley, near
Khartum, those barriers which display themselves
there in solitary rocky hills and mountains. Eight
o'clock, from N.W. by N. with a fair south-westerly
wind to W. A quarter after eight, W.N.W. ; the
wind freshens, and we make six miles. Half-past
eight, in a bend to N., and further to S.E. A

200 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
quarter before nine o'clock to N.W., and on to
N.N.W. : on the right an isolated dhelleb in the
reeds. Nine o'clock, in a flat arch again to N. by E.:
on the right a village, with extremely low tokuls. On
the left we remark another elephant-tree, and at a
quarter of an hour distant, on the right, a forest. A
quarter after nine o'clock. — N. by W. and E. : on the
right a lake, with a village, at a short distance from
the shore. The lake cuts off, near the Haba, that large
angle formed by the river, and belonging therefore to
the primitive bed. The poison-trees make me recog
nise that scanty forest where we landed previously.
With a sharp turn from E. over N. to W. by S.,
and immediately at half-past nine o'clock, W.N.W.,
and further rotmd an arch of reeds in narrow water
to E.N.E., where we stumble again upon the Haba.
A quarter before ten, we double a corner N.W. by N.,
and in a flat arch to W. ; seven miles.
We land at the right shore near the solitary
stunted trunks of trees, which belong to a former
forest. In the neighbourhood a large lake. A little
after ten, again from thence, N. by W., N. by E. to
N.E. A quarter after ten, to N., and then E. by N.
Some fishermen's tokuls to the left on the low shore :
neither men nor periaguas to be seen, the former
having probably fled. A quarter before eleven o'clock,
from E. to N.N.W. Eleven o'clock, to N. and N.N.E.
Unfortunately the wind has slightly slackened, yet
we still make four miles. A quarter after eleven,
E., then to N. Half-past eleven, N.W. ; further
W., when our sailing ends for some time, to
W.S.W. A quarter before twelve, from W.S.W.
to N.W., when we sail again, and N. to N.E. by E.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 201
On the left, some negroes in the reeds, who speak to
us, but we do not understand them. N.N E., and
immediately N. by E., and E. by S. ; on the left a
miserable fishing-hamlet.
Twelve o'clock. — Round the left, in the bend, N,
and further to W.N.W., where along water-tract lies
before us. Half-past twelve : N.W. from S., a broad
gohr comes on the left of us, by which the river is
considerably widened. To N. and N. E., then N.
by E. ; and a quarter before one o'clock, to the right,
E.N.E., and directly to the left, in the bend, N. and
N.W. Half-past one, N.N.E. to E. then N. by E.
to N.W. by W. A quarter after two, N.N.W., and
N. to W. by N, and again to N.N.W., and N.W.
by N. Half-past two, N.N.E, and with a short turn,
a quarter before three, to W., and on to W.S.W.
On the left a large lake; then N.W. and N., and in
the bend, to S.E. by E. ; gradually again to E.N.E.
Half-past three, N.N.W., where we stop at the
scorched right shore. Subsequently we go to the left,
where the reeds are protected a little from the wind.
Wonderful to relate, I got in such a perspiration by
bathing in the Nile, although at first I could not
move after it, that I was obliged to fly away from
the cold wind to the cabin, and even there to wrap
myself up in the barakan (Herahn) folded four times
thick. 28th February. — At a quarter before eight, we
navigate from N.N.W. to N. On the right, several
solitary large tokuls are to be seen from the deck,
and then N.N.W. Sale brought a crane of gigantic
size ; but he had kept our vessel waiting for him half
an hour, although only this morning I had enjoined
k5

202 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
him to be attentive to the roll of the drum, and the
sails. To awaken his sense of discipline, and as a
warning for the negligent soldiers, I got Feizulla
Capitan to give him some stripes over the hand, sparing
him by this means the disgrace of receiving this slight
punishment from a subordinate officer.
Eight o'clock. — N.W. A quarter of an hour later,
from N.N.W. to W.N.W. It blows a gentle south
west wind ; but we are obliged still to make use of
the oars. Half-past eight o'clock. — From W.N.W.,
to N.N.W. and E. The air is thick, like yesterday;
a heavy dew falls, and neither sunrise nor sunset is
perceived. A quarter after nine o'clock. — From
E-, round the left, to W.N.W., where a large scattered
tokul-village lies on the right, and behind it a lake.
The Nuehrs dwell here, and some of them come to
Selim Capitan, when he halts at the right shore,
which they did not do on our ascent. We proceed
in a flat arch to N.E. The wind has freshened a
little, and the oars rest; we make five miles. A
quarter before ten o'clock, from N.N.E. to W. Ten
o'clock, with a short turn, to N.N.E. A quarter
after ten, in a small bend, to W.S.W., where we
are obliged, unfortunately, to furl the sails, to S. by
E. A quarter before eleven. — Shortly round to
S.W. and S.S.W. Eleven. — To the right; very
shortly round to W.N.W., and the sails spread, to
the joy of all who wish to push forward and see their
friends ; but directly again to the left, S. ; on the
right, hamlets, with men. A quarter after eleven.
At the left a small lake in the river, formed by other
tributaries. We go W.N.W., and land at the left
shore.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 203

CHAPTER VIII.
NUEHRS. — ORNAMENTS — MANNERS OP THE WOMEN. — THE MEN. — CURI
OUS CUSTOM OF DRESSING THE HAIR, AND STAINING THEMSELVES. —
VISIT OF A CHIEF. — SPEARS USED INSTEAD OF KNIVES. — SINGULAR
WAY OF MAKING ATONEMENT, ETC. — WE HEAR ACCOUNTS OP OUR
BLACK DESERTERS. — BOWS AND QUIVERS SIMILAR TO THOSE REPRE
SENTED IN THE HIEROGLYPHICS. — THE TURKS INDULGENT IN ONE
RESPECT.  MOUNT TICKEM OR MORRE. — TRACES OF ANIMAL-WORSHIP
AMONG THE NUEHRS. — ARNAUD'S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OP A LAKE,
AND GAS0ONADES. — ADVICE TO FUTURE TRAVELLERS ON THE WHITE
NILE. — SWALLOWS. — MEANS OP DEFENCE AGAINST GNATS DISCOVERED.
THE SHILLUKS AGAIN. — QUESTION OP THE CONTINUAL ALTERATIONS
IN THE APPEARANCE OF THE NILE.  GUINEA-POWLS.  GIRAFFES. —
— BLACK WASPS. — TURTLE-DOVES. — OUR AUTHOR CAUGHT IN A THORN-
BUSH.  FABLED LUXURIANCE OP THE PLANTS IN THE TROPICAL REGIONS.
— VIEW PROM A HILL. — MANNER OF CATCHING FISH AMONG THE
NATIVES.  THE SOBA.T RIVER.  THE INUNDATIONS OP THE NILE
CONSIDERED. 1st March. — The Nubhrs are afraid of us, on the
whole, yet they brought us, yesterday, one of their
bracelets. We shall remain here to-day till the
afternoon ; for, although we arrived yesterday before-
mid-day, yet nothing has been done by the gentle
men engineers, and every minute appears to me lost
that we are on shore, for there is no village there. I
made a short shooting excursion this morning with
Sale, and shot two karawans. I approached the side
where the little bay is formed in the river, in order to
examine it closer. I arrived through burnt reeds at

204 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
an ambak-thicket, and came here upon thick half-
burnt reeds, whilst the ground was very swampy ;
and then I pursued a bird unknown to me, close to
the margin of a small lake, bordered by ambaks. I
ought to be thankful that I was able to find the
right road with my black feet over stalks of reeds
which were trodden down, and to get out at last
from the dangerous path.
Nuehrs are scattered on all sides ; but the men
did not venture near the vessels. The women, on
the contrary, were excessively talkative. They would
see the vessels, and it was with them we transacted
business and bargained for durra and tobacco. They
have shaven heads, and the young women, notwith
standing this disadvantage, do not appear ugly. They
have a very small hole bored through the flesh, be
tween the nose and upper lip, in which we remark a
thin blade of straw, or a small stick, to prevent it
closing ; or they put in it a needle, ornamented with
a glass bead, extending slightly beyond the end of
the nose : kissing, therefore, must be very difficult,
if it happen to be the custom here. The whole rim of
the ear is also pierced through, and from want of glass
beads or other ornament, we perceive a little piece of
wood in it. There are no lines on their forehead ;
front and back leather aprons are slung round the
hips, or simply a rahat, made of the narrow slips of
dome-palm leaves. Here and there an ivory neck
lace, or strips of bark are seen, and around the neck a
few miserable glass beads : these are the only orna
ments which the poor women possess. Although I gave
them some glass beads, at their humble request, yet
their modesty was so excessive, that not one of them

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 205
would sell me her rahat. They carry the small
baskets, containing durra and tobacco, on their heads,
with considerable dexterity, as is common on the
White River. The women, in these countries, have
no voice in the public assemblies, and therefore they
make up for it by talking whenever they get the
opportunity — a natural wish for emancipation !
The men here and there have interesting physi
ognomies, and which are particularly improved by the
hair being worn in a natural manner : it is mostly
one and a half to two spans long, but sometimes cut
short. Their red colour — which is here of a fiery red
— seems to be the favourite national colour. Our
men thought it was natural ; but I discovered, from
many of these men, that they stain themselves arti
ficially. At first, I believed that they wore a coiffure,
similar to a wig; but I soon found that they had
tied up the long hair behind into a thick tuft, and
plastered over the whole head with a strong coating
of ashes and an alloy of clay, which has the sam'e
effect as the hennah of the Turkish old women, who
prefer to have red rather than grey hair. We laugh at
seeing these stiff and dirty perukes, and yet our peri
wig-mania has only of late years been defunct ;
whilst, even now, the highly-civilized English still
wear the full-bottomed wigs, and seem to think that
a quantity of powder, long, stiff body-coats, and loose
gaiters, are essential for tlieir young servants. We
perceive, upon the very projecting forehead of the
Nuehrs, six horizontal lines, more or less elevated :
they wear well-worked bracelets, narrow, but thick,
with a sharp edge, the best of which I bought, and
amongst them a thin one, adapted to the form of the

206 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
upper part of the arm, above the elbow. They have,
besides, very frequently, iron rings on the wrist, and
a species of battle-ring, having several tongues, simi
lar to those I saw above, and the points of which are
covered with little pieces of wood in time of peace.
They adorn their ears with a bead, or a red copper ring,
like the natives ofthe country below Bari. The aures
perforata are not, therefore, here a sign of slavery,
as with most other people. I saw no weapons, ex
cept their artfully-constructed bows ; for they told us
previously that they would not bring any arms to
the vessels, so that there might not be schammata
(strife). I was present when the Sheikh ofthe right
side of the shore, who had brought some cows, was
clothed by Selim Capitan. He expressed great joy
when the beads were shewn him, but he would not
have anything to do with the white or the black
maccaroni, although there were gold ones between
them. He said " arrad" (bad), and returned them. .
His name was Lunj6k, and his village lies at a dis
tance from the shore. His father is a sheikh on the
left shore, but the inhabitants of both sides, although
they are all Nuekrs, are continually at war with one
another, which he seemed to deplore. They must
possess arms, because they make war against the
Shilluks and the Keks, and are generally successful,
although they do not boast of it. Most of their
villages lie on lakes or gohrs up the country. We
saw here also three hamlets lying in ruins, on which I
walked, and where even the reeds were torn awray. I
plainly saw that the place where these villages stood
must have been heightened by the destroyed mud- walls*
The men wear small white beads round their necks,

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 207
which are said to come from Pamm, in the country of
the Dinkas: they do not themselves slaughter any
cattle, as we were told, but eat animals slain by
others, or those that die a natural death. They have
not a supreme master, or Sultan.
Yesterday evening, we remarked a large circle of
fires and solitary dhellbbs around us, denoting that
the villages of the Nuehrs were near at hand. I got
to-day a curious head-dress, of leather and goats'
tails ; we see here also those mussels (Cypraa moneta),
which I have mentioned before, used as an ornament.
We have never observed knives since we left
Lakono's country : spears seem to be used instead of
them, and therefore we found them frequently worn
away and useless, and not fastened hy a nail to the
shaft. Our black soldiers make use. of the spears
they have purchased, instead of knives ; and, more
over, the Nubian two-edged knife, and that of Kor-
dofan, still retain the form of a spear. The bull, as
the creator and support of the herds, must be honoured
and esteemed here, for the rings worn by the tribes
on the wrists, from hence to Berri, are everywhere
decorated with little iron horns, and the natives imi
tate immediately the lowing of cattle, when we look
at the rings.
A very charming custom of these tribes came to
light during our barter with them. My servant Fadl
had purchased articles, as he had often done before,
and given some in exchange, when subsequently they
demanded that the rings should be returned, which he
would not consent to. A negro tore the flesh of his
arm with a spear, so that the blood spurted out ; but
no sooner did he see this, than he spat upon the

208 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
injured place, and begged pardon by gestures. The
spitting in the hand is not perhaps meant, in the
upper countries, as a mode of greeting or particular
distinction, but rather as a kind of apology, or to
exorcise the spirit of anger.
Suliman Kashef was even fortunate enough to
receive such a secretion on his head, as a sign of
respect, which made him put on a grim countenance.
The people seem generally to make use of this spit
ting custom for the purpose of exorcising evil spirits :
we find something analogous to this in the so-called
" evil eye" ofthe South of Europe, namely, of Italy
and Greece. Our deserters, we learn, passed here
only yesterday ; the Nubhrs would have robbed them,
as the women told the little Dinkaui in my presence ;
but the latter shot some of the Nubhrs (the women
said several), and then crossed to the right side ofthe
river. The Nuehrs themselves had perhaps killed a
few, but were frightened that we should take re
venge, and pretended therefore that they had treated
them peacefully. The poor men will have a great
deal to suffer in their journey to their distant home.
Half-past three o'clock. — We proceed to N. The
gentle south-east wind is at our back, so that it is
very hot. Four o'clock. — A short tract to N.E. ; on
the right a wretched hamlet, to N.W. and W.,
W.S.W. : green shore but low ; ambaks, and some
trees with thick foliage at our left. A quarter after
four o'clock, N.W. to N.E. by N. Solitary elephant-
trees, poison-trees, of larger height than we had yet
seen, aschurs, young dome-palms, and soon a Haba
on the left shore, which is elevated therefore higher
than usual. Negroes and women greet us in vain

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 209
from the left side. Half-past five o'clock, N.E. by E.,
in a bend to N. W. and W.N.W. ; then immediately
N. by E. Just after six o'clock, we come to N.E. by
E., and go over to the right shore. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 28° ; noon, 28°. Half-past three o'clock, 31° ;
sun-set, 28°. •
2nd March. — A quarter before seven, to N. by W.,
then N.W. ; and at seven o'clock, N.E., E.N.E., and
N.E. by E. I cannot describe the agony we suffered
from the gnats ; my head is so heavy that it has
become quite a useless member of my body. A
quarter before eight, further to E. ; and at eight
o'clock, to the left, N. On the right, in this bend,
a village, the negroes standing on their ant-watch-
towers. The south-east wind is favourable ; the
negroes sing the usual old melodies, but cease directly,
when they see the vessels sailing past, without
noticing their song of welcome. The win<l freshens,
and the sky becomes cloudy : it looks like rain, and
yesterday evening we perceived a storm in the
distance. Our deck being in such bad condition, will afford
us, in truth, but little protection. Five miles. From N.
in the bend to N.W., then right round at a quarter
after eight to N., N.E. and E., where we furl the
sails, and immediately to E.S.E. Luckily this last
tract is not long, and the wind may soon help us out
of these abominable regions of mosquitoes. But
unfortunately now, it is contrary to us, and masters
the oars so that we are obliged to go libahn, and
land at half past eight at the left shore, for the
Kaiass has remained behind. A little village is seen
here, and now goes on the pulling of rings off the

210 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
arms, so that the bones crack again, and the natives
even break them in two on the arm, merely to pro
cure sug-sug. I get here, besides other things, a
bow, such as those already described, a rahat of
palm-leaves, and a club with a knob, almost the
same as we have seen up to Bari.
The red copper earrings, which perhaps come
from Berri, do not seem to be of any particular value ;
for they take them out of their ears when we ask for
them. The men also, when they have no ivory,
wear strips of leather, or of bark, round their necks
and arms, such as are usual in all the regions of
the White Nile.
The hair combed back, and not entirely reddish
here, but retaining its natural black colour, gives the
head an European look, and particularly so, because
it is not woolly, although curly. This remarkable
circumstance speaks in favour of the immigration
of another race, as I have formerly alluded to.
And this supposition becomes still more confirmed
when we observe the greater neatness and dura
bility of their tokuls, which are entirely dissimilar
to those in Sennaar ; so also their household uten
sils, and even the form of their bows and quivers,
which are similar to those seen on the hieroglyphics,
shew that they are either in a much higher grade
of cultivation, or have outstripped considerably in
civilisation the neighbouring tribes.
A quarter before twelve o'clock. Further to N.N.E.
and N.N.W. We sail six miles in the hour, and
shall escape, perhaps, the rain, which has announced
itself by some drops ; but we are obliged to reef the
sails, owing to the other vessels being behind.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 211
A quarter after twelve. — N.N.E. to N.E. by E.,
a short tract; then in abend, N. to W., and at last,
with a short bend, to E. Half-past twelve. — From
E.N.E., in a wide bend, to W.N.W. ; but immedi
ately again in a bend, N.N.W. We hoist again the
sails. N., and on to N.E.— E. by S.
Nothing but green aquatic-grass on the shore, and
although the singing, bawling, and shouting on
the vessels gives life to the scene, yet all at last
turns to dull monotony. Illness and fatigue make
me wish to rest a little, but I keep up in order to
attain the aim I have in view. The wind has changed
to south, perhaps for our benefit. One o'clock. — From
E. by S., where a dhelleb appears on the right to
N.N.E., E.N.E., and N.W. by N. Two o'clock—
E.N.E. to E. Half-past two.— N. to N.W., on the
right a little village behind the reeds ; further to
S.W., and then with a short bend W. I see bloom
ing ambaks at the left, and shall be able perhaps to
gather again some of its flowers, and also the little
duck-meat : the double lotus is there, but I have
already seeds and tubers of that plant. The first
group of dhelleb-palms is a welcome sight before
us, for hitherto we have only seen solitary ones. A
quarter before three, N.N.W. There are now thir
teen dhelleb-palms at the most on our left. On we
go, — I think we shall return to these dhellebs — to
E.N.E. and E. ; a blooming ambak-thicket at our
right. Three o'clock. From E. shortly round to
W.N.W. On the right we remark negroes. The
wind is certainly not so strong as previously, yet we
make five miles more. Now at the right a badly-
built hamlet, which contains tokuls with oval doors,

212 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
and depressed and badly formed roofs plastered at the
top with clay : soon afterwards, at the same side,
another hamlet in the very same style. Perhaps both
these villages contain summer tokuls, to judge from
the miserable roofs of the huts, which do not keep off
the rain. A quarter after three. From N.W. by
W. to N. The wind has already slackened, but it
appears again to think better of it, or we should have
to expect the troublesome visit of gnats. Half-past
three o'clock.— From N. by E. to N. Four o'clock. —
N.W. and further in a flat arch to W. by S. Half-
past four to five, W. to N. The sun sinks in a mist.
At the right shore, where the reeds are burnt away,
we notice a giraffe (saraff), and Suliman Kashef sends
his halberdiers in pursuit of it.
3rd March. — We navigate a quarter after six
o'clock from the middle of the river, wherein we cast
anchor last night to N.N.W., then a little to N. and
W., where a hamlet lies on the right to W.N.W. A
quarter before seven o'clock. — W.N.W. ; a slight S.E.
wind gets up. Seven o'clock. — N.E. byE.,on the right
some new summer tokuls ; to E. and a quarter of an
hour afterwards to N.E. by E. The oars rest, and
we sail very slowly with the gentle wind, the river
having a trifling fall. A long course is before us and
the wind freshens immediately, so that we make four
miles. On the left a village at the distance. A
quarter after eight. — N.N.E., N. and N.N.W., a
poor fishing village at the left. A quarter before
nine, to W.N.W., the wind still better ; five miles.
A quarter after nine, to W. ; on the left several large
tokuls up the country; again to W.N.W. and then
N. by W. A narrow gohr comes on the left from the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 213
reeds S.S.W. ; the whole marsh-rSgion here is in end
less connection with the river, visibly and invisibly, by
open canals and reeds. On the right a hamlet. Half-
past nine o'clock, N.W. Smoke or mist extends
before us, making the vessels a-head appear as if they
were in an extensive and elevated sea.
A quarter of an hour ago we had six miles
and now six miles and a half. A row of solitary
and very large tokuls continues on our left. The
villages, properly speaking, of the Nubhrs, are half
or three quarters of an hour from the river. The
smoke just mentioned comes from the tokuls I have
described, as the smell of burning tells us. From
N.W. to N.N.W. and N. ; and at ten o'clock on to
N.E.' and E.N.E. We leave a rush and grass island
of about ten minutes long in the middle of the river.
A quarter aften ten, N.E., N. and N.W., and so
quickly that it is quite delightful : we make seven
miles. Half-past ten o'clock. — We double half-dried
ambaks, which still display flowers. To N.N.W.,
N.E. by E., then shortly to N.W. and N.W. by W.
On the right some negroes standing by their boats :
they shout to us, but we wont hear. A quarter be
fore eleven. From N.W. to N.N.W., N.and N.N.E.
we have a long course before us, with slight declinations
to N. by E. There are no elevations of the shores
either right or left ; merely aquatic reeds : behind,
here and there, the surface of the earth is dry, and
there are a few ant-hills with parched grass or a reed-
hut. Eleven o'clock. — With a short bend N., we
make eight miles : to N.W. and soon to N. On the
left some wretched reed-tokuls, and negroes, the
women standing upon a mound and singing. Further

214 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
to the right N.N.E. Half-past eleven. Shortly to
the left, round N.N.W. and W.N.W. then imme
diately to N. and N.N.E. — A quarter before twelve
o'clock, still N.N.E. and then N.
The Turks have one magnanimous custom, despotic
as they are in other respects. If the master call and
the servant answer boldly, " I am eating," he need
not come ; so if the . former say, " Call me such a
one," and his messenger comes back with the report
that the man he wants is asleep, the master lets him
quietly take his siesta whatever hour of the" day it
may be. Twelve o'clock. — N.N.E. and immediately
N.E., then N.N.W. and again N. A quarter after
twelve to N. by W. and N.W., when we turn to
N.W. by N. ; then we go in a regular bend N.*E. to
N.E. by E. A quarter before one. — N.W. by N.,
and at one, to N.E. by N. We have just saved a
Dellahl (crier at the sale of slaves and public auc
tions), the Abu Haschis of the Kaiass, who jumped
into the water to seize a large dead fish, notwith
standing we were sailing quickly. With a few ex
ceptions we still continue to make eight miles.
Nothing but aquatic reeds and crown-rushes ; very
few high reeds, and these beyond the reach of the
water. I will now repeat my journal word for word, in
order to give the reader an exact description of the
labyrinths of the river. I have hitherto partly
avoided the detailed description of the windings, so as
not to be wearisome by constantly repeating the same
thing ; and these, moreover, are shewn in the inap
which was composed on the groundwork of my jour
nal, and which accompanies this work.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 215
A quarter after one. — From N. in a bend to the
left, N.N.E., and then again right round in an arch,
where the south-east wind may be contrary to us ;
N.E. with a short turn to E.N.E., and on to E.S.E.
The sails can work, for the wind graciously continues
and blows in S. Half-past one. — From E.S.E.,
shortly round the left to N.N.E. and N. ; we furl
the sails in order to wait for the vessels behind.
Two o'clock. — In the bend S.E. and E., where a
tolerable course displays itself, and we again draw in
the sails. A large hippopotamus snorts at the side of
the vessel, and no one laughs at it, for we have
learned to know already that the proximity of these
ship-stormers is dangerous. A quarter after two.
To the left in the bend, E.N.E. ; we sweep by on the
reeds like lightning, N.N.E. to N. by E., then in a
flat arch to the right, N.N.E., which bends still more
to E., E.N.E., and S.E. We saw several black birds
both yesterday and to-day, called gataff by the Arabs,
— a species of water-hen, which flew over the ships in
swarms till late in the evening, and uttered a piercing
cry. A quarter before three, from S.E., left to N. by E.,
and right, N.N.E. ; four miles, with a slack wind.
Three o'clock, from N.N.E., shortly round the right ;
a small island at the left, with reed-grass, crown-
rushes, and blooming ambaks. To E., where a tole
rable road opens before us ; then to the left, E.N.E.
Course three miles and a half ; but the cloudy sky
forbodes a squall, yet it may blow off, as it has done
on other days.
Half-past three ; from E.N.E. to the left, in a bend
N., and N. by W. : a road before us, then to the

216 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
right : make again five miles — in the bend, N.N.W.
A quarter before four, on and on slowly to the right,
N.E. On the right a large lake, which is connected
with the river by a wide mouth ; several negroes
standing there, but no tokuls to be seen. Four
o'clock, N.N.E., then to the left, with a small de
clination to N. by E., and then to the right ; three
miles rapidity — E.N.E.
Half-past four. — To the right E , and straight
forward, with small inlets, further to E. by N., five
miles. The wind blows fresher. Five o'clock, from
E. to the left, shortly round N.N.E., to N. by W.
Half-past five.— From N. to the right N.N.E., still
there are no shores, no burnt tracts of land. A
quarter before six.— From E.N.E. to the left N.E.,
where we anchor in the middle of the river. A
little lake, Haba, and the isolated tree to the right.
4<th March. — Departure at half-past six o'clock,
from N.E. to N. by E. A quarter before seven, in a
flat arch on the right, to N.N.E. Hitherto, not any
wind, and perhaps not much hope that there will be,
for the day is clearer than usual, although it blows a
little from the west. The west wind only brings
rain now and then to the land here. Seven o'clock,
from E.N.E., round the left N.W. ; on the right
the " Village of War," so called by the crew, on
account of the cruelty exercised previously on the
natives, and which I have already related.
Half-past eight ; from N.W., on the left two
little islets follow one another, to N.N.W. A quarter
before nine ; the vessels come behind us, the south
west wind gets up a little, and we sail therefore on to
N. ; three miles ; N.E. by E. Selim Capitan says

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 217
we made sixty-five miles yesterday, and thirty-five
more to-day, in the direction ofthe lake of the Bah r-
el-Gasall. Nine o'clock, from N.N.E.; a little island
in the bend, to the left N. and N.N.W., then in
a flat arch to N.N.E. Half-past nine, N. by W.; the
wind freshens for five miles, N. and in the bend, on to
N.N.W., where we are unfortunately obliged to furl
the sails, owing to the strong north-west wind which
has set in. A quarter before ten : we go N. W. ; the
wind becomes fresher; it seems inclined to be con
trary to us the whole day, and we have enough to do
to stand against it. A quarter after ten ; W., and
slowly to N.W., then right round to N., where we
spread sails, after the wind had changed magnificently
to the west, and perhaps will go again to S.W. — five
miles. Eleven, o'clock ; from N. by E., in a bend to
N. by W., in a long bend N.N.E., then shortly round
the right. Half-past eleven, to S.E. by E ; after
wards in the arch to E.N.E., with six miles, and
on to N.E. and N.N.E. Twelve o'clock ; from
N.N.E., a jump to the right, N.E. by N., then in
the bend to N, and again N. by E., and a little
to the left, N. One o'clock, N.N.E., and further
to N.E. Half-past one ; to N.N.E., and again in a
flat arch to N.E. and E., to E. by S. Two o'clock,
E.N.E. The neighbouring ambak bushes approach us in
these windings, and make the shores less monotonous ;
yet it does not last long, and we see again only grass,
water, and sky. Half-past two, N.E. ; a quarter
before three, N.E. by E. We see from the deck a
high mountain to N.N.E. at the distance. It must
be the so-called Tickem, or the Morre, as Marian
VOL. II. L

118 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
now says more correctly. The people have no end
of joy at seeing this mountain, for they consider it to
be the finger-post to Khartum, and they are looking
for the dome-palms now as another sign. Three
o'clock. — From E.N.E. to E. ; then, with the slight
est bend, to N. The marsh-land is from a few inches
to half a foot high, on dry ground ; there are some
ant-castles on it, and water-reeds and solitary ambak-
bushes on the left. A little foward to the N., and
the so-called Gazelle River rushes with great force
close before us. Unfortunately, this is another pre
text for the gentlemen engineers to stop — yet use
lessly — whilst we ought to make good way with the
favourable wind, in order to follow the Sobat further.
We go also immediately to the right marsh-reeds,
as usual to collect gnats for the night. The Nuehrs
love their cattle, and, like children who won't
have their pigeons and rabbits killed, are excessively
delighted at watching their growth and increase.
We see not only from this. that these people do not
kill the animals for eating, but also from the manner
in which they decorate the beasts, insomuch as they
put on them broad necklaces, covered with little conical
bells. The necklaces are of iron, and, as this metal
is very rare amongst the Nubhrs, they seem to take
more pleasure in manufacturing ornaments than arms,
though the latter are of the first and highest import
ance to a people living in a state of nature ; yet
they may, nevertheless, be richly provided with them,
and do not wish to display their warlike side to us,
for we have lost their confidence by the barbarous
conduct of the first expedition. A closer investiga
tion of this nation might give interesting results : their

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 219
curly, not woolly hair, the antique form of their bows
and quivers, their war-caps, similar to those of the
Egyptians, and their worship of animals, would serve
as a very instructive guide in the Ethiopian labyrinth
of history.5th March. — Nothing done, unfortunately, by the
engineers: I myself could not land, owing to the
marsh-reeds. 6th March.^-D'med with Selim Capitan, where
Arnaud had a fit of indigestion, from having eaten too
many fu tir (tarts).
7th March. — At last Arnaud went in the sandal
to circumnavigate the lake, without saying a word to
any one of his intention, because he means to pretend
that he has seen everything, and to impose on the
Basha by a large bakshis. This lake is said to make
a great figure on his map, which he must have got
others to compose for him at Paris, because he him-1
self is not capable of doing it, as Sabatier expressly
declared. Yet he was so close to us all the time he
was navigating it, that we never lost him out of our
sight. He wished also to investigate the Gazelle
River by himself, but he was afraid of remaining with
the sandal in the reeds at night, where he might
have become a victim to gnats or other monsters.
The Bach'r el Gasall does not display at this time of
the year any fall, nor does the Nile here in the lake,
although the breadth of its stream is clearly distin
guished from the bluish water of the latter by its
muddy colour. Tbe lake has fallen about a foot
since our ascent, of which we have plain proof by our
shore. There is want of wood on board the vessels,
because the crew have kept up a clear fire every
L 2

220 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
night to drive away the gnats, without even giving a
thought that the smoke alone has that effect. With
respect to this abominable brood of insects, I earnestly
advise all future travellers to provide themselves with.
a musquito-net (Arabic, nammusie, from nammfis,
gnat) if they wish to escape the torments of hell, and
to preserve their health and perhaps their life. I
myself shall be grateful to God if I only remain
strong enough to continue and end my journal as
accurately and faithfully as hitherto ; so that by its
means I may correct the maps which may be pub
lished subsequently, and particularly with regard
to the numerous windings and bends of the river
itself, which can only be followed by the strictest
attention. 8th March. — Arnaud again to-day kept his inten
tion very secretly, and navigated the Delta before
the Gazelle River — a famous opportunity for relating
anecdotes of continual adventures and hippopotami-
hunts. He really does gasconade too much : for ex
ample, he states, quite at random, in the presence of
Sabatier, the number of miles he has navigated the
last two days, although he has never cast out the
log ¦ whereupon Selim Capitan laughs in his face.
Arnaud never scruples either to ask for anything that
pleases him. " Son Altesse," serves always as his
excuse, as if he were collecting only for Mohammed
Ali. At half-past ten o'clock a few drops of rain
fell. M. Arnaud having returned from his great
voyage of discovery, we sail out of the lake E.S.E.
The weather seems about to clear up immediately,
although the sun casts a certain watery gleam of
light on the marsh-grass that we cannot trust.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 221
It thunders, and we go with a west-wind right
into the dark clouds. Half-past eleven o'clock, the
rain has fortunately come on ; the wind has changed
from W. to N.E., and we go with oars again to E.N.E.
A quarter before twelve, the wind blows freshly on
the right shore of the reeds, where we make a whirl
again, because the crew are tired out by their sleep
less nights. Drops of rain only are falling, but the
pell-mell confusion in which the vessels navigate is
enough to drive one to despair : no taking to the
oars — no wish to do anything — no command — the
tailor- captain is sitting at his handy-work.
The shores are, or form, short reeds and grass stand
ing in the water. Twelve o'clock ; to E. Half-past
twelve ; S.S.E. One o'clock ; E. by S., a large lake
to the right, scarcely separated from us. Two o'clock ;
with a trifling declination left to S., and in a flat
arch, E.S.E. The wind has changed to the south^
and we sail a little — two miles. However we see
showers of rain pouring down nearly all round us, and
it will be fortunate if we escape them, for where could
we fly to to preserve ourselves from the rain which
soaks through in these regions? Half past three
o'clock ; from S.E., with a few deviations to E. by N. :
we make four miles, for the wind has settled in south
west, whereby a few drops of rain sprinkle us from
the right side, and we go then directly a short tract
N.N.E., leaving behind us a large floating-island, very
rare here in comparison with the small ones. A quar
ter before four ; with a short bend to E.S.E. and E.,
then from E.S.E.; on the right here a large lake;
immediately at a quarter after four to S.E. by S., and
on the left to E.S.E. and E. by N.

222 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
The rain is like that of a German May. On the
right shore, a somewhat scanty forest, where we halt,
at a quarter to five, on account of want of wood';
at five, however, we bear off again, for these little
mimosas afford us no wood. From S. to E.S.E. ;
a large lake again on the right. How much earth
must the mountains of Bari and elsewhere supply
before these shallow lakes can be elevated into land
and fields ! Half-past six ; from E. by S. to the left
in E. and E. by N., where it makes a leap to E.N.E.
The wind has become slack : only two miles. Six
o'clock ; to E. There are many swallows flying over
the reeds ; they seem to be making a tour of pleasure
with our deadly enemies the gnats. These birds may
either not anticipate the rainy season, which is close
at hand, (unless they are already on the road to our
home,) or they remain here entirely, and most of them
perish, as we have seen in Taka, where, however, the
trees protect them. Half-past seven ; E.N.E. On
the right a large lake : we anchor in the middle of the
river, and it begins to be dark. Thermometer, sun
rise, 22° ; noon, not above 27° ; sunset 27°.
9th March. — We start, though it is raining, at six
o'clock, and go E.S.E. and immediately E., and sail
with a north-west wind to N.E. Seven o'clock;
round the left to N. ; immediately, however, to the
right, E.N.E. and E. The wind has gone round to
south east, and freshened, so that we make six miles.
We see from the deck ten villages scattered at some
distance on the left side, and a lake on the right. The
lakes mentioned yesterday, which were encircled here
and there by ambaks on the side turned from the
river, and not, as usual, by the Habas, could only be

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 223
perceived from the deck. We go at eight o'clock
to S.E. with oars, after some delay, in consequence of
our vessel having come into collision with Selim
Capitan's. The wind has slackened considerably :
a large lake on the left.
A good idea unfortunately often strikes us too late.
Last night, I was trying to defend myself with a fan
against the onslaughts of the gnats, but often let it
fall from pure weariness. Continual stings, however,
soon waked me to pick the fan up again, till about
morning it came into my head to erect a small taber--
nacle over my face, by means of a linen cloth. Yes
terday evening I repeated that contrivance, and was
scrupulously careful in forming it, when I found
that the little pincers and pests would not let me eat
in peace, and poured out of their lurking-holes with
bloodthirsty intentions. I drew, therefore, my little
conical canopy over my head : I was very hot under
it, but yet not a mosquito was able to pierce through
it; They buzzed and hummed outside, and the crew
cried, "Bauda! bauda!" but I was comparatively
jolly, and of good cheer.
A quarter after eight. E.S.E,, then E. Some
trees before us ; two villages seen from the deck, be
hind the reeds on the left. Nine o'clock. Right
round to E.S.E. ; here, on the left, a little lake, and
three villages near the above-mentioned three or four
trees, ten minutes from the shore. The tokuls, which
are not so large as those previously seen, and have
slightly arched roofs, seem to denote that we have
come already to the country of the Shilluks. It does
our heart good to see human habitations once again
close to us. The Nile has been really very tedious

224 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
for a long time : I sit here, a " passer solitarius in
tecto." I always thought that we ought to bring
every landscape before the reader's eye, like a row of
pictures on the wall ; but there is a continual and
tiresome repetition of natural objects here : yet I feel
it my duty not to spare the reader. Ten o'clock :
continually E.S.E., with very inconsiderable declina
tions. Several people and villages on the left shore,
at five minutes' distance : they are really Shilluks.
From the deck we see immediately ten large and
small villages. We wind, still rowing, in a flat arch
to the right, S.E. ; then to the left, E. by N., at half-
past eleven ; and again slowly to -the right. Four
villages, the last a large one, at our left : they lie in
termixed on the bare high shore, or rather grass and
reed-sea, through which the river winds. Some
Shilluks, no doubt a very populous nation, greet us
from the shore with " Hababa !" (borrowed from the
Arabs: in Taka, also, they say hababa — otherwise,
mirhaba). Three mountains project on the right.
Eleven o'clock, S.E. ; three villages on the left.
Half-past eleven. Slowly from E.S.E. to the right,
S.E. by E. ; then to the left, E., and the river im
mediately makes again a bend to the right, in E.S.E.
The wind freshens and detains us ; yet we have
gained just this moment, for the river goes further to
the right, and the wind has changed to N. The high
shores, behind which the whole country is bare, with
the exception of a few uschars, and seems to lie
higher, approach again the river on the left ; and two
villages shew themselves at some hundred paces, on
the gently-ascending downs; below them the old
river-bed appears on dry ground.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 225
The Shilluks, armed with lances, and standing on
the shore, shout again their "Hababa!" but we
sail now, and they do not offer us anything, much as
we should like to make use of their cows and wood ;
and besides there are two many of them. Groups
of tokuls stand in a row. A quarter after twelve,
continually E.S.E. Half-past twelve, S.E. by E. ;
to the left, E. The wind has changed, and is con
trary; so we go E.S.E. The Shilluks also have
sleeping-places, open at the top, wherein warm ashes
form their beds, with which also they powder their
hair, thereby making it look grey.
A quarter before one. From E. by N. A gohr
on the right, and we go, at one o'clock, E.S.E. Half-
past one. The river takes a direction before us to E.,
with some little inlets, so that we cannot see the
lower shore. The wind blows strongly against us
from E. We have but scanty fare, being without
meat. I cannot deny lew to myself now, for I
really want it.
Half-past two. E. by S. A Haba on the right,
before it a lake connected with the river in front ; the
forest is upon a gentle declivity, and covered with
shrubs, thorns, and dwarf-trees, even to the edge ofthe
water. The shore also falls away gently to the river,
near which it only rises a little above the narrow-
green margin of grass. We halt close to the right
shore, owing to want of wood
The shore ascends to about fifteen feet high, where
the trees begin, and is composed of nothing but mimosas,
although the Nile very certainly does not flow over
it ; for the river has full play far away to the left.
If we call these lakes, marshes, and reed-morasses, L 5

226 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
a longitudinal valley, enclosed as they are with the
Nile between two high shores, which, however, do
not ascend to the due height, the original shores
perhaps lying still further by the irregular low line of
mountains, or rather hills, it is plain that the same
is gradually filled by alluvial deposits from the moun
tains of Bari, or from above, and an accumulation
of vegetables, or the momentary sprouting forth of an
corresponding kingdom of plants, must have soon
followed the more important vegetable matter. As
the sluices of the so-called valley pour into the great
Nile, it must have falls on a level with the Nile itself,
and has, therefore, dug a bed, and made an even
slope to this side, after the stream had removed the
first barriers or dikes of the high shores, which are
now secure from any inundation. A river-bed;
indeed, naturally becomes deeper when there is a
proper fall and a regular conduit. The lower Nile
has elevated its bed, because it has but few vents.
Why could not the White River have a similar
retrograde connection of water, which is prevented
from flowing off, such as is the case, in the first
place, near Khartum? The Nile here might have
been previously in majestic fullness, and flowed
rapidly between the present old shores to Khartum;
until it created shallows and islands, where reeds and
water-plants of every species sprang forth luxuriantly
from the nearly stagnant water, and vehemently
opposed the natural course of the river, seized the
alluvial deposits from above in their polypi-arms;
and rose to what we now see to be meadows and
marshes. The Shilluks are tolerably acquainted with

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 227
the good disposition of the Turks : as soon as a
vessel approaches a group of them, they get up and
go away ; this even befell Selim Capitan, in spite of
his interpreter. When they see us coming, they drive
the cows from the water, even without letting them
drink. We on our side are afraid, and with justice,
to land on the inhabited spots. I brought back two
guinea-fowls, the produce of my shooting excursion
with my servants ; I had seen Suliman Kashef with
one of a similar kind above. They are not at all like
those in Taka, and different only from those of Europe
by the darker colour of their plumage. We shall
remain here to-night ; thunder and rain have been
satisfied with merely threatening us, — and are happily
over. I disembark once more, and see fifty to sixty
giraffes in the level shore towards the horizon, but it
was too late to get at them. The thermometer was
at nine o'clock in the morning 21°, but did not get up
afterwards to more than 28°, fortunately for us, —
not so much on account of shooting as because the
heat might have been insupportable, for we were
between these high shores a talus, with an average
angle of 25° to 30°, and the wind was entirely
still. 10th March. We remain to-day here for the sake
of shooting, conformably to Suliman Kashef's deter
mination. His halberdiers set off to-night to follow
the course of the giraffes, and to find out their abode
in the gallas, — unfortunately without success, for they
did not like perhaps to trust themselves so far in the
territory of their deadly enemies.
I remarked a number of burnt bones of hippopotami
in the low forest lying close to the river. I should

228 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
be inclined to believe that the natives burn the carrion
intentionally, in order not to be exposed to the dis
gusting effluvium. A species of black wasps build
hanging-nests here, which however seem from their
transparency to contain very little honey. I could not
ascertain this more exactly, because I was obliged to
be cautious in breaking off a branch with such nests
on it. We remark low mountains beyond the softly
ascending desert, and perhaps the dry water-courses
which issue here from the steppe flow to them, and
there may be the real abode of the deer. In my shoot
ing excursion I looked carefully among the thorn-
bushes, and found that the plants are mostly the
same ; I had fancied quite otherwise. A blue con
volvulus — not, however, belonging to the water —
displayed a lighter colour than usual, and had also
round and glutinous leaves: I took seeds of some
pretty creepers and gathered the fruits ofthe shrubs;
for I was already acquainted with the leaves. Every
thing now was withered, and I am curious to know
what will become ofthe various seeds I have collected
when they are sown in Europe.
Most of the birds had retreated before the shooting
of the other sportsmen commenced, but I stumbled
upon several turtle-doves, and instinctively grasped
my gun, letting my botanical bundle fall on the ground.
I shot some, and got under a tree, where I saw them
fluttering around. The thorns stuck to me and
pricked me all over, and there I sat bent, like an
ostrich caught in a thorn bush, compared with which
the bull-rush of Moses was a child. I could not
force through it with my coat on and gun in my hand ;
so I got loose from the sharp barbs of the thorns with

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 229
torn clothes, leaving behind the tarbusch, takie, and
half my cowl, without even scratching my ears, though
they were bleeding enough already. I fetched back
my tarbusch by means of my gun, and then examined
my malicious enemy a little closer, notwithstanding
he was an old acquaintance. I found withered apples
on it, and gathered some, for the sake of the seed ;
when green they are exceedingly similar to oranges or
Egyptian lemons. I have not found it confirmed that
they are deadly poison to camels.
llth March.—" Bauda mafish, am'd el Allah !"
(the latter properly Hamdl el Allah,) was the cry on
all sides to Allah, because the gnats had taken their
departure, and I hope that those which are still in
my cabin will soon follow their companions. Depar
ture at a- quarter before ten to S.E. by E., then a
little E. by S. Summer or pastoral villages no the
left : we perceive also herds, but not a morsel of them
is destined for us. On the right an old river-bed or
narrow lake, mostly marshy, and connected below
with the river. A quarter after ten, E.S.E., on a
pretty good course, with the exception of some shallow
inlets. We sail, with a south-west wind, four miles.
On the left again open reed-huts or sleeping-places,
and herds to which the people are collecting, — on
account of the Turks. All the Haba here is deposited
soil, which lies almost always higher than the other
ground. This evidently fading forest once enjoyed
better times, when the blessing of rain was afforded
it, but the benefit of which it lost directly by its
higher" situation.
, What fables are told of the incredible luxuriance of
the tropical kingdom of plants! At all events it

230 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
could only be said of aquatic plants which are forced
by water, evaporation, and sunshine, as if by steam or
chemical preparations ; but then only in the rainy
season and a few weeks beyond. I saw, indeed,
trees shooting forth at this time in Taka, which boil
ing and cauldron-shaped valley may perhaps contain
a tropical growth, or something like it ; and plants
springing up from the morass with incredible celerity
and luxuriance, as if by magic. But trees that have
true manly vigour, and strive to shoot out with sound
strong muscles, whose pith is still clearly to be seen
in the bark, with not a bough injured, — not a branch
hanging down withered, — these are sought for in
vain in the Tropics, so far as I have seen. We can
form a tolerable idea of the momentary life and
vigour there by comparing in Europe, acacias, planes,
and poplars, on suitable soil ; it is the most cheerful
awakening after a long repose : but part of the
limbs always continues in a sleep-like death, whether
it be under the bark of the stem, or a bough that the
sun scorches, or a runner become dry, which disfigures
the whole tree. A forest requires care, either by the
fortuitous kindness of Nature herself; or, when that
is not sufficient, by the directing hand of man. The
omnipotence of the terrestrial womb of fruits is past,
— that which gave previously the magic of lovely
green to the coming species, without any visible seeds
of themselves. Half-past eleven o'clock, S.E. — It
has just rained a little ; — what anxiety and fear of
rain these half-naked coloured people shew ; what
care they display in preparing immediately a tent to
sit under ! I have very often remarked this ; rain
must therefore make a sensible impression on their

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 231
hot skin. Twelve o'clock, E.S.E. We see at the
distance on the left towards the horizon, solitary
dhellebs as usual on elevated ground ; and also iso
lated little groups of Shilluks. Narrow tracks of
water right and left, which not long ago were flowing
cheerfully. The river has also gradually laid aside its
terraces in preceding times, until it has limited itself
to its present bed ; and those parts of the shore, lying
higher are only just moistened, even when it is at its
highest water-mark. It would be interesting to
follow these old river-beds in the ascending line at
the side, and to arrive at the dams of the primitive
stream, or at the higher circumvallation which sur
rounded the lake here at one time. A quarter after one
o'clock. — On the right a gohr cul-de-sac, low bushes to
S.E., called by the very same name as the Haba ; on
the left solitary trees and straw huts of the herdsmen.
At two — on the right, another gohr cul-de-sac, — to E.
We sail E.N.E, and wind, for the first time since the
morning, to the left : a track of water in the shape of a
terrace, just there, from half a foot to a foot higher than
our level. A beautiful line of dome-palms before us,
but still thicker a little to the left. Half-past three,
N.E. — Heaps of simsim-sheaves on the water at the
left, and a row of ten villages near the dome-palms.
A broad gohr or river comes from W. This may be
the river of the Jengahs ; but it seems to approach
in the background too much to the Nile ; perhaps
therefore it is that gohr which is said to have its old
river-bed on the high shores, below the villages of the
Shilluks. A quarter before three, E. We see on
the left seven more large and small villages, by or near
that row of dome-palms, which on this side is very

232 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
thin ; then a dome-forest to the left at a quarter of
an hour's distance.
An unlimited water-course before us in E. by N.,
but no huts to be seen on the left. Therefore, the
nation of the Nuehrs might have been dislodged by
the Shilluks from that quarter ; for the former extend,
or are said to extend, up to the Sobat and its shores.
This side, at all events," had been inhabited, as I
_ plainly saw this morning at our landing-place. The
Haba, however, continues at a slight distance from
the river ; on the left also the dome-forest is now
reduced to a strip of a wood. The shores are sur
prisingly low on both sides ; and therefore not any
tokul-village is to be seen near them. A gohr is on
the right, which is scarcely separated from the river,
and in connection with it, like the other narrow ones.
Three o'clock. On the left three more villages in
the dome-forest tract; and on the right and left
parrallel gohrs, subordinate Niles, which are now
stagnant, and the fish in which are a prey to men and
beasts. Four more villages to the left, near the
dome- wood retreating from the river ; on the right
the forest thickens.
Half-past three. Towards S. We have a tolerably
high and apparently planted island at our left, and
halt at the right near a hill — probably a deserted
domicile. But look there ! that is really the far-famed
Sobat, the water of which is flowing against us, and
which is so much feared by the crew, who are tired of
the voyage. I soon disembarked on the shore, sauntered
up the hill, and was surprised to find that I could
see so far in the distance, and fed my eye and mind
with a diorama which extended from W. to N.E.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 233
The Nile is conspicuous in the W., and meanders to
N.E., where it is lost to the sight. An isolated dhel-
leb-palm on the right shore indicates this last boun
dary. The horizon behind this glittering length of
the Nile is adorned with a transparent forest of
dome-palms, insterspersed with slender dhelleb palms,
with their small heads. The basin of a lake spreads
from W. to N.W., at my feet, and the river Sobat
winding downwards from S.E., and flowing in the
depth at my right, unites with the Nile near the
lake : both its shores are bare, and only a few me
lancholy straw tokuls stand on the extreme point of
the right shore. All the remaining part of the dis
trict extends far and wide in a dead waste, with a
little withered grass; and the horizon alone from
S.S.W. to S.W., displays afar some palms and other
trees, through which the blue sky glistens.
The lake lying in the angle between the left shore
of the Sobat and the right of the White Stream is
connected with the former by a narrow opening, evi
dently prevented from closing by the hand of man.
The mouth, as is the case elsewhere, is merely stopped
up by reeds, to keep the fish of the lake in confinement.
Our blacks shewed on this occasion what they do to
catch fish when the water of these lakes is shallow,
and does not reach up to a man's middle. They dis
turb it with their feet, put fishing or conical baskets
into it, and harpoon the large fish, who come to the
top to breathe.
The Sobat, swelling at high water far higher and
stronger, has raised unquestionably a dam against
this lake, the former river-bed of the White Stream,
and pressed the Nile more towards N.W. into its

234 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
present bed. Notwithstanding such an advantage
being at hand, the natives have cut through the dam
for the purpose of catching fish. The Sobat has
shortly before its mouth a hundred and thirty mbtres
in breadth and three fathoms in depth, whilst when
we were here before it was four fathoms ; and ac
cording to Selim Capitan, a few days earlier last
year, five fathoms. We can tell but very little
generally of the depth of the Nile, because its
bed is very uneven, and the stream causes eternal
fluctuations. The name of Sobat could only have been given to
this river by the Funghs, for the Arabs have never
possessed it, and usually call it Bach'r el Makada
(river of Habesch.) The Dinkas name the White
Stream Kedi, and this Kiti, which mostly denotes
water in the dialects on the White Stream up to"
Bari, where it is called Kirboli : Kir also means water
among the tribes down the river. Its name is Tilfi
and Tak with the Nuehrs and Shilluks.
When I view the steep and high slope of the
shores of the Sobat, and the proportionate thin layer
of earth on the immovable strata of clay or original
soil, which here is twenty to twenty-five feet higher
than on the shore or in the bed of the Nile, I return
to my former conviction, that the immeasurable par
ticles of stone and plants stream by means of the
breach, and fiowing away of the lakes of the Ethiopian
highlands, to the lake of the basin-shaped valley of
the White Stream which flows off with the Nile,
as the deepest point ; and that all the lower country
under the mountain chains of Fazogl and Habesch;
from the Atbara to the land of Bari must be under

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 235
water, if it be not a lake connected with the depressed
regions of the White Stream. If the lakes, there
fore, of that lofty plain were torn by a powerful
catastrophe, and deserted their chasms or valleys,
as the water-basins of Switzerland did formerly —
(even now there are lakes or flat valleys, signs of a
deluge, in which the waters might have dashed from
the summit of Atlas to the top of the Alps) — there
is no question that the lower lakes or valleys must
have filled and overflowed. The first rushing-down
of the mass of waves, incredibly violent as it must
have been, the falling of mountains accompanying it,
and their washing-away, overpowered everything be
low them, as if gods had- descended from Olympus,
and no longer recognized those limits that would have
remained eternal obstacles by an inferior shock. The
first deposit was a layer of clay on the side of the
Sobat, whilst the White Stream suffered no such
sediment when in its primitive strength, and washed
away everything that it could seize, as is shewn by
the far lower shores. The high shores of the Sobat
and its environs fall away, especially towards the
level parts of the left side of the Nile, to which the
accumulated slime could still less arrive owing to the
stream carrying it off, although several gohrs and
rivers from thence pour into it. These afford water
certainly, but no slime to increase the height of the
shore, as we plainly see by the Gazelle River, and
also in the little Kiti of the Jengahs called Njin-
Njin. We must assume from the Dinka country
and its greater elevation, that the ground towards
the Nile was heightened formerly by its gohrs flow
ing from above, or perhaps constant rivers ; whilst

236 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Kordofan, which lies over the left shore of the Nile,
discharges no rivers, and its oases have run down
from the mountains themselves, and formed islands in
the sands which still remain, for the sunken ground
forms cisterns that nourish the succulent power of
the mountains by imbibing the moist element ; or it
may be, that springs were bored by God's own hand.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 237

CHAPTER IX.
ROYAL CRANES. — SCRUPLES OP PEIZULLA CAPITAN. — COMPOSITION OP
THE SHORES. — DESCRIPTION OP THE DHELLEB-PALM AND ITS FRUIT.
— PORM OF EGYPTIAN PILLARS DERIVED PROM THIS TREE. — DIFFER
ENCE BETWEEN EGYPTIAN AND GREEK ARCHITECTURE.  DESCRIPTION
OF THE SCNT-TREE. — DEATH OP AN ARABIAN SOLDIER. — VISIT OP A
MEK OR CHIEF. — DANGEROUS RENCONTRE WITH A LION ON SHORE. —
PURSUIT OP THIS BEAST BY THE AUTHOR AND SULIMAN KASHEF
WITH HIS MEN  FEAR OF THE NATIVES AT THE TURKS  PLUNDER
OF THEIR TOKULS BY THE CREW. — BREAD-CORN OP THE DINKAS. —
ANTELOPE HUNT. — DIFFERENT SPECIES OF THESE ANIMALS. — IMMENSE
HERDS ON THE BANKS OF THE WHITE NILE  LIONS AGAIN. — BAD
CONDITION OF THE VESSELS.
12th March. — We set out at half- past nine o'clock,
and sail to S.E. by E. Shrubs on the higher shore
to the right. A quarter before ten, from S.E. by E. ;
further to the left round a corner, to which a bend
corresponds on the opposite shore : this is often the
case on the Nile. To E N.E., and immediately again
witk a short tract to N.E. The river flows with all
its force against the left shore, and therefore the latter
is higher, more perpendicular, and disrupt, than the
right, whioh soon, however, becomes similar. We
go a short tract libahn, and see a few miserable
small straw tokuls with thin doors, on the left, in the
little green underwood, which seems to be nourished
by the inundation, and is mostly young dbbker.
The shores display again iron oxyde. A quarter be-

238 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
fore eleven : from E. by N, to the right, E.S.E., where
we sail. The shores on the right and left are higher,
according to the current, and the falling of the river
is accurately marked out on the shore by little gra
dations, which are exceedingly regular, and one to
two inches high. We crawl on only slowly with the
faint south wind, and make now one mile ; for the
current being stagnant below towards the Nile, told
me directly that the floating companion of the moun
tain dissipates quickly its water, differently from the
slow, crawling Nile, which is obliged to work through
the plain of a lake-basin.
Eleven o'clock. The wind freshens, and we go
S.E. and E.S.E. On the left a solitary dhelleb-palm
rises on the shore, with its beautiful and really sym
metrical head ; its slender base without rings, and its
elegant foliage. From hence in the bend, further to
the right, in S., where five dhellbb-palms break the
uniformity of the high shore on the left. A low ridge
of a hill lies near them, on which a village must have
once stood. If I could but transplant the tallest
dhelleb to Louisa's island, near Berlin, to make it the
common property of all the northern nations ! It is
hot, for the high shores keep the refreshing breeze
from the deep water, and only the sail enjoys a
cheerful gust of wind, with the assistance ofwhich we
go, at a quarter before twelve, from S.W., where a
regular forest before us presents itself to the eye, to
the left, in S.W. by S. We make two miles; a
quarter of a mile, perhaps, being derived from the
current. A quarter after twelve, from S.W., to the
left, E. by N. We hardly move from the place
till it blows from N.E.. and then we go better, having

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 239
four miles' course. An old sailor runs on shore
close by the vessel, to find crocodiles' eggs ; tumbles
into holes, falls in the grass, and is using every
exertion to find a convenient sand-path instead of
the clay. The crew call him to come off, but he
wants to shew that he is a nimble fellow — thus every
one has his hobby-horse.
The river winds continually in a bend to the left : a
wretched stunted forest on the right, and miserable
tokuls, without people, here and there on this shore.
One o'clock ; from E. by N., where the river winds
again to the right, S.E. by S. We halt at a
quarter before two, at the right shore, yet not to let
the men rest ; that would be against the Turkish
custom, for they think there are no human beings
except themselves. At three o'clock we go with
libahn to S.E., and immediately to the left E. Half-
past three, in a bend to the right, S.S.E. ; and four
o'clock, on the left, in the bend, to E.S.E. Five
o'clock, from E.N.E., on the right to E., where we
Stop at the right shore.
. Last night I awoke up several times, and the wild
geese on the neighbouring lake, seemed to call to me
in a friendly manner, and scream " Here we are,
for you have not had for a long time either
sheep, goats, or fowls." I was on the wing therefore
at day-break, but saw only four royal cranes (grus
royal, Arabic gornu, or chornu), one of whom I shot,
for they are very delicious when dressed in a ragout.
Feizulla, although he has been seven years in England,
drinks drams and wine like a Turk, and scruples to
dine with me, because I had not cut the bird's throat
mmediately after it was shot, whilst it was yet

240 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
alive, and made it debieg (koscher, as the Jews
say). These beautiful birds, with a tuft of golden
hair and shining feathers, appear in flocks on the
White River : my Sale killed a brace in a moment,
and would have brought us more if he could have
followed them. The geese would only surrender at
discretion to the " longue carabine," and I had only
my short double-barrel.
I visited once more, on this occasion, the hill above-
mentioned, which I found quite adapted for the
situation of a village. I had seen already the remains
of potters' ware, and solitary flower-gardens, or plots
of ground trodden down, where once tokuls stood,
but where now neither grass nor shrubs could grow ;
and I came to the conclusion that a considerable
village must have stood there, which could have
belonged only to the Nuehrs, and was probably
destroyed by the Shilluks. Thermometer, sunrise,
21° ; half-past nine o'clock, 28° ; noon, 29° ; no
rise beyond that was perceptible afterwards.
13th March. — Departure at seven o'clock, with
libahn to E.S.E. by E. ; then to the left, E.N.E.,
and we sail with a good north-east wind. A quarter
before eight : from E., in the bend to S.E, ; on the
left some straw tokuls. The wind becomes strong,
and we make six miles for the present ; the mountain
stream seems to be here at its lowest pitch, and has
only a quarter of a mile rapidity. Eight o'clock ;
from S.E. by S. ; to the left, E. by S., where we are
obliged to go libahn. A quarter after eight, to the
left, but we halt before the corner of the bend till
noon, owing to the violent east wind. I made a little
excursion into the immeasurable plain, which was tree-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 241
less and comfortless ; and found two villages, better
built than usual, to which I was not able to approach,
and likewise a long and dried-up marsh. I could not,
unfortunately, discover any guinea-fowls in the durra-
stubble. At twelve o'clock, we proceed with libahn to N.E.,
where our Bach'r el Makada winds again to the right.
Half-past twelve. The shores, with few exceptions,
attain a height of fifteen to eighteen feet: the upper
surface of the soil consists of humus to two or three
feet deep (which may be deeper in the low ground.
old gohrs, and several tracts), and under it nothing is
seen but clay or mud, having a yellowish colour on
the shore, from the iron oxyde, with which it is
strongly impregnated, and generally more so than on
the White Nile, where this is only the case in layers.
A fertile country, but requiring human hands, canals,
and sakien. We see from its shores, and in the
dried-up pools, which receive very little nourishment
here from vegetable matter, particularly on the
upper land, that the Sobat brings down fruitful earth
or slime.From half-past twelve to two, in a bend to the left,
S.E., where we go again left in N.E. by N. On the
same side there is a tolerably well built little village
on the shore. A quarter before three, still further to
the left, N. by E. Four o'clock, we wheel to the
right in E.N.E., where we get the view of a genuine
low forest, and notice on the left a village in the
winding to S. by E. Half-past four, also further ;
a hamlet on the right with straw tokuls, the first on
this side. We see here also reed-boats, as among the
Nuehrs and Shilluks on the Nile. At five o'clock to
VOL. II. M

242 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
S., where we at first halt at the right shore, before
the bend to the left. Two large villages lie from
half to three-quarters of an hour distant, and I see
an immeasurable bare plain cracked from drought, —
a summer shallow lake without any verdure. We go
then to the left shore, the soil of which is less mixed
with sand than that of the right, and gives us some
hope of shooting and fishing. The huntsman Sale
returned, however, disconsolate, for he had seen no
thing at all.
The left shore is still more precipitous and higher
here than the right one, because the stream forces
itself into this bend. When we disembark, we find
that the land again rises to a gentle acclivity, and we
have the prospect of a large lake about three quarters
of an hour distant, which overflows perhaps deeper
into the Sobat. Many lakes of this kind must be
found in the country of the Dinkas, because springs,
as in the Taka country, are not sufficient for the wa
tering of the cattle of this merissa-loving, dancing
and singing tribe; and besides, the drawing ofthe
water would cause too much trouble.
The Sobat is stagnant here in the proper sense of
the word, and no log can determine anything else.
14th March. We navigate again on the right side,
and go at half-past seven o'clock with libahn from S.
by E., immediately S.E., where the north-east wind
remains contrary to us, notwithsanding the narrow
water-tract. Some small and still green reed-huts hang
on the shore, sheltered from the north wind : these are
stations for hunters of hippopotami and crocodiles, or
for fishermen, who, however, have gone away, and
taken with them their working implements, for they

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 243
are frightened of us. The durra seems to thrive
famously on the half-sandy shore, and rises cheerfully
above the reeds ; probably it is sown, — that is, a hand
ful thrown here and there on the vacant spots.
Eight o'clock.— E. by N., and N.E. by E. The
upper margin of the right shore is planted throughout
with durra, and some small fishing-huts shew that
men dwell there. Ten o'clock. — Hitherto always
N.E. within considerable deviations, and then N. by
E. ; where we halt at the corner ofthe right shore on
account of the wind, for the river goes still further to
the left : level land above, some underwood, and a
village at a little distance. A quarter before one. — N.
by W., and about one, in a bend to the right. When
the crew relieve one another at the rope, they imitate
to perfection the Uh-uh-i-ih of the tribes on the upper
part of the White Stream, and during the towing
itself they sing the song a-a-a-jbk-jbk, which would
be difficult for a white man to do. The.force of the
water is directed here against the right shore, which
is without any crust of vegetation, and seems to
ascend to the uppermost margin, as is proved by the
gradations being washed away, and the thin layer of
humus, one foot to one and a half high, decreases per
pendicularly, whilst the lower part of the soil displays
unmixed clay. It certainly required a powerful pres
sure of water to wash this primary deposit to such
a depth ; the left shore, on the contrary, has a coating
of slime and vegetation down to the water.
Two o'clock. — E. by N. ; twenty-one dhelleb-
palms on the left, with a pastoral hamlet of thirty
new straw-tokuls. The crew are beginning to shoot
- down the dhelleb-fruits, and I also disembark on the
M 2

244 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
shore, beyond which the ground, with the beautiful
group of trees, is still imperceptibly elevated. We
are quite comfortable there, but I gaze far and wide
for a point to break the unbounded flat waste that
shews not a thorn or a bush ; the river winds melan
choly between the naked shores. These palms stand
in luxuriant growth, — a proof that the soil is capable
of other things, and may look for a better future.
The very pretty straw-huts present nothing worth
baving to our rapacious eyes, and near them we
remark the sleeping-places, and a large, glimmering
heap of dung, serving at night for fire and a bed.
The cow-dung is collected in little heaps in the en
closure, surrounded with palings, where the beast is
tied, and is still quite fresh : notwithstanding this, it is
very certain that we expect in vain the return this
evening of these beautifully spotted cattle. Standing
on an old trunk of a tree, I remarked a large village
on the right shore at a quarter of an hour up the
river. The dhelleb-tree has the same fibrous texture of
bark, and of the interior of the trunks, as the dates
and domerpalms ; but it is far finer, thicker, and
stronger. The outside of the bark shews rings from
below upwards, and the tree itself shoots forth slen
derly from the earth, and swells gradually towards
the centre to a spheroid form, when it decreases
again to the top, and rises stately, separating the
head from the stem. The fruit is as large as a child's
. head, and in clusters, as in the palms before named,
but on far stronger stalks, from which it hangs down
immediately close to the stem. It is smooth outside,
and of a golden colour, like its pulp ; the latter is

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 245
fibrous, of a bitter-sweet taste, like chewing soft
wood and leaves behind in the mouth an astringent
taste, which may arise here from the fruit not being
fully ripe. There are from four to six kernels in this
gold apple of the size of a child's hand, or of those of
the dome-palms : the stalk has a scaly covering, sur
rounding about a third part of the fruit. The
kernels, or the nuts, have themselves a solid pulp,
shining like dark glass, being exactly similar to that
of the dome-fruit : at first it is like milk, but on
coming to maturity becomes of the consistency of
horn. The trunk of palms is surrounded with the
same kind of rings as the date-tree, the rind feel
ing smooth, like planed wood; consequently it was
impossible to climb these trees to gather any fruit,
owing principally to the swelling in the centre, and
therefore it was shot down. After several attempts*
we drove large nails in the stem, to hold the rope
by, and then we ascended gradually.
The bark falls off on the ground, as is the case
with the other palms, for the tree throws out foliage
like grass from the interior : the thick rootlets spread
themselves in all directions through the ground, like
polypi, with a thousand veins of life.
There seems to me to be no doubt that the
Egyptian pillars, protruding in the middle, derived
their origin from the dhelleb-palms, which might
have been transplanted in the Thebais ; for it was
impossible that the Egyptians should not take notice
of the unusual shape of this tree — they who borrowed
all their forms and embellishments, even to those of
their spoons and salve-boxes, from the kingdom of
nature.

246 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Lifeless figures having no meaning are never re
presented by them ; flowers, foliage, leaves, sacred
animals, or parts of them properly introduced, are
intermixed with hieroglyphics, like a garland, without
beginning or end. The Greeks quickly seized what
was beautiful in this, discarded what was heavy and
confused, and pleased themselves and succeeding ages
by lighter and more elegant forms. They placed the
acanthus aud horns, or volutes on the capitals of their
pillars, and the Germans planted a stone-forest as the
holiest of holy.
A large village of the Nuehrs (judging from several
potsherds) stood on our hill : this nation dwells up
the river from hence and in the direction of the White
Stream, where we had seen them last. I had found
also on the last landing-place fragments and the foun
dations of a village, and heard from our blacks that
the Shilluks, several years ago, had a great war
with the Nubhrs, drove them from these parts, and
took possession of the lake abounding in fish, which
I have previously mentioned. We have not remarked
any sunt among the mimosas from the country of Bari
up to the Sobat, and even on this river, but we see
taile. The latter tree has a reddish bark ; the long
white prickles grow by couples ; the flowers are
whitish and without any particular scent ; the bark,
however, is used for pastilles, and, when rubbed,
sprinkled on the merissa. It affords the best gum
(gamme, semmag), which is white like that from
sunt, while that from the sejal (or sayal) is black
ish. Thermometer 37esterday morning 22°, and did
not rise beyond 27°, and this morning 18° ; noon 26°
to 29°.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 247
15th March. We leave our beautiful palms at
half-past nine o'clock,- and go from E. by N., and
notwithstanding the strong north-east wind, slowly in
the bend to the right. A quarter after ten, S.E. by E.,
then a very short tract S.S.E. : some grass huts of
fishermen, and crocodile and hippopotami hunters at
the lower declivity of the shore on the left. Half-
past ten, to the left S.E., and further to the left, S.E.
by E., where we halt at eleven o'clock, because an
Arabian soldier has just cried himself to death before
our cabin ! He wept at having to die in a foreign
land and not seeing his mother any more. Nearly
all these people lose their courage directly they are
attacked by any illness, the nature of which they can
not visibly perceive as they can a wound, &c. He
died with a piece of bread in his mouth, because the
Arabs believe, and with justice, that so long as you
can chew bread you will not die. It is shameful that
we dare not take even medicine from the fine black
physician we have on board, and much less can we
expect assistance or salvation from him. Ten minutes
have flown ; the deceased is carried to the upper part
of the shore, and yet the worthy disciple of Clot- Bey
has never even looked at him ! We leave at half-
past two the place where the soldier was buried in
dead silence, after having received five more cows,
upon whom the crew fell like wolves, and navigate to
the left, E.S.E. ; then again slowly to the right.
Three o'clock, to S.E. We sail about five minutes,
and stop again at the right shore, by the corner where
it turns to the left, and then again, " Jo hammet, Ja
mohammed ! " is chaunted at the rope. In the wind
ing below the left shore we saw a water-hunting esta-

248 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
blishment of seven straw tokuls. A quarter before
three, from E.S.E. to E. by S. A quarter after four,
E.S.E. Half-past four, E. Some few trees on the
right entirely or partly withered, and soon afterwards
a few green ones, of which those standing lower
shew that the water has poured into the shores, even
to the margin. Five o'clock, E. by N., then slowly
right to E., where we halt at a quarter of an hour
later. The river makes a strong bend to the right,
and we hope to sail to-morrow.
This afternoon, when the cows were brought us, I
procured a ring, with much difficulty, for sug-sug,
and though badly manufactured,- it is at least peculiar
to the country. I saw several such rings among them,
but not one of them had a circular form, and by this we
may measure the standard of their skill. Those which
are better worked, are found among the Nuehrs.
The five cows came from the, Mek, who presented
himself in person to Suliman Kashef, with whom
Selim Capitan also happened to be : he was clothed
in a ferda, which he had received from the Shilluks.
He wore a very thick copper ring on his hand, and was
of opinion that dress is the privilege of sheikhs. An
old woman and a man preceded him ; the former attired
like an ancient Queen of the Witches. We dressed
the mek in a red caftan, put a gay-coloured red
handkerchief round his head, and hung glass beads
on him. Another cow was brought to us, but they
wanted an enormous quantity of sug-sug for it, (these
trinkets are generally held in little value here, because
the Gelabis frequent these regions,) and still more for
goats and sheep. Thermometer, sunrise, 18°; noon
and subsequently, 28° to 30°.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 249
16th March. — Man is not appalled in the midst of
danger itself, — if it were so, he would be lost ; but
the frail human heart throbs afterwards. Yesterday
evening I left the vessel, in company with Thibaut,
to get at a swarm of finches, which birds are said to
give a delicious flavour to a pillau, of which we
wanted to be joint partakers. We were soon obliged
to separate, in order to salute the birds on both sides
of their settlement. In my excursion, however, on
the shore, I came all of a sudden within a few steps
of a lion, without having the least distant idea that
this fearful enemy could be in the neighbourhood of
all our vessels, and I had only my double-barrel,
which was loaded merely with small shot ; whilst my
huntsman Sale, was pursuing a gazelle, at a. long
distance off. Possibly our firing had awakened
this supreme chief from his sleep, for otherwise
I must have seen him before, although my eye
was directed to a brace of birds at the left; be
cause the underwood could not have concealed an
object of such size, as it only reached up to the knee,
and was merely interspersed here and there with a
higher bush. I was just taking aim slowly and almost
irresolutely at the two beautiful birds, who were look
ing at me with surprise and confidence, contrary to
*the custom of the cunning finches, when the lion stood
before me on the right, as if he had sprung from the
earth. He was so close to me that he appeared to
stand as high as up to my breast, but yet I stood,
my poor weak weapon in my hand, holding it close
to my side, with perfect presence of mind, so as to
keep my face free, and to wait for the attack ; I was
firm, and he seemed also to be resolute. M 5

250 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
At first we stared at each other mutually; he mea
sured me from top to toe, but disregarded the Turkish
accoutrements and sun-burnt countenance, for my red
cap which he seemed not to despise. I, on my side,
recognized in him the dreaded king of beasts, although
he wore no mane, according to his usual custom, but
I did not appeal to his magnanimity. At last he
turned his face from me, and went away slowly with
a dreadfully pliable movement of his hinder parts, and
his tail hanging down, but could not restrain himself
from turning round to look at me once more, while I
was trusting to the effect of one or two shots in the
eyes or jaws, if it came to a contest of life or death ;
and really I remained standing immovable, with too
much of the lion in me to tremble, and to bring
certain destruction on my head by untimely flight.
However, away he went, looking round several times,
but not stopping, as if he feared pursuit, and I turned
my back to him equally slowly, without even calling
out a farewell ; but I cast a searching look over my
shoulders every now and then, right and left, expect*
ing that he might make a spring like a cat, and I
kept him in sight before me, when I was about to
jump down from the shore on to the sand where the
vessels and crew were. I confess openly that I now
felt an evident throbbing of the heart, and that my
nose seemed to have turned white. Taken unawares
as I had been by the lion, the distance of five paces,
according to the measurement I made, was nearly
too close for me : on his side it was only necessary
for him to have smelt me, which probably I should
not have allowed. I stood a moment on the margin
of the shore, in order that I might tranquilly

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 251
summon Suliman Kashef to the pursuit of the beast,
without betraying any pallor of countenance, and
then I jumped down on the sand. When I swore by
the prophets to Suliman Kashef that my account was
true, he was ready immediately with his sharpshooters.
At my advice we formed a line of riflemen above,
though I could not obtain a couple of bullets for my
gun ; but the Turks soon crawled together again,
except a tall black slave of Suliman's, who was at the
right wing. When the latter soon afterwards pointed
and made signs that the lion was near at hand, his
master motioned with his hand and gun that he would
shoot him if he did not join us, for he held himself as
lost, being left quite alone. We set off at a slight
trot, because the lion continued his walk, until at last
Suliman, as it began to get dark, ordered three of his
boldest warriors to go in advance. Three shots were
fired, but the men came back, and described the lion
as a real monster. I was actually glad that the mag
nanimous beast, according to all probability, was not
even wounded. They called me again an " Agu el
bennaht," because I accompanied the expedition to
see my lion a second time, and they expressed them
selves rejoiced that God had preserved me, and wished
me happiness, with pious phrases from the Koran.
To-day we sailed at half-past six o'clock from the
place to S.E. and S.E. by S. ; at seven o'clock ; E.
by S., a village on the high shore at the right.
We saw yesterday, from our landing-place, four
villages, lying together on the right and left shore,
which the Dinkas have taken into their possession.
At half-past seven o'clock, after we had sailed only
slowly (two miles), owing to the wind being partly

252 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
adverse, we proceeded to E.S.E. and S.E. by E.
The strong breeze caught the sails, and we make
seven miles clear of deduction : unfortunately, the
tract will not be long. A quarter before eight we
stop before the corner, where a winding to the left
commences, in order to go libahn, because the ves
sels ahead do it. Some huntsmen's hut3, with their
inhabitants, stand on the right shore, and I procure,
oh this occasion, a horn of the Tete species of ante
lope. We proceed, sailing, to S.E. by E., and
E.S.E., and halt a quarter after eight. Again at
S.E. by E., to go libahn round the left. Unfortu
nately, the wind has torn the sail, which I had feared
for a long time would be the case ; for it was ripped
up in several places, and the Tailor Capitan did not
trouble himself about it. " Allah kerim !" A large
village at some distance above. At a quarter before
one, we go libahn to S.E. by E. ; then E.S.E. and
E. by S. On the right shore a village with Dinka
tokuls and sleeping-places. It is not yet, however,
decided whether the Dinkas dwell there, although the
style of architecture of the tokuls, their grooved and
arched roofs, without eaves, seem rather to denote
that they belong to this tribe than to that of the
Nubhrs. The wind is very strong, and the crew are
obliged to tow with all their might ; but the river
winds now to the right, and we can, perhaps, sail.
A quarter before two. From E. by N, slowly in the
bend to the right : a village on the right shore, in the
bend to the left, exactly like that on the left side.
Half-past two, E. by S. We cannot see anything of
the village here, owing to the high shore ; and the
blacks, who stood shortly before in large numbers on

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 253
the shore, have fled because they saw the Turkish
countenances of Suliman Kashef s halberdiers. The
Turk is pleased at such fear, which is associated with
hatred and contempt on the part of the negroes. A
quarter before three; S. by W. The wind makes
the men at the rope run ; but we are not able to sail,
because the river winds immediately to the left.
We have a low sand-island at our right. Our men
will let nothing lie by the huntsmen's huts : tortoise-
shells (water-tortoises), vessels, — such as gadda,
burma, gara — everything is carried off; for the
blacks have imbibed the Turkish notion of " Abit,"
and are now askari (soldiers), who pretend to know
nothing of their countrymen.
Three o'clock. To the left in S. and S.S.E. ; then
again to the right. Half-past three. We sail a little
S. by W. and S. by E. ; a village on the left. The
Dinkas appear to mix everything called corn to
make bread ; such as durra, lubien of different spe
cies, ; gourd or melon stones, &c, ofwhich I have a
specimen ; and also lotus seeds, found here in great
quantities, and therefore denoting that there are seve
ral lakes in the interior, and the small rice I have
mentioned previously. A large hippopotamus shewed
himself on the flat left shore : he was afraid of the
vessels and the shouting of the crew, and trotted in a
semicircle, like an immense wild boar, in order to
plunge into the water with a greater roar. Four
o'clock. To the left E.S.E. Five o'clock. From
E. further to the left.
The crawling along these cheerless shores, notwith
standing the shouting, jokes, teasing, and stumbling
on board the vessels from side to side, and sometimes

254 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
into the water, and the huzzaing when that takes
place — notwithstanding all the various kinds of occu
pation and non-occupation which may amuse us for
a short time — is exceedingly wearisome ; and it is
well for me if I retain my senses to sketch here and
there an idea, which may be followed out or rejected
by those whose attainments are higher, and who have
the advantage of an enlightened circle, where opinions
and views can be expressed and discussed. Such a
circle, however, cannot be found in Belief Sudan, or
on board my vessel. We halt a little after six
o'clock in E.N.E., at the right shore. Thermometer,
sunrise, 18° ; noon, 27° and 28° ; sunset, 27°.
Vlth March. — We had a great antelope-hunt
yesterday evening. Amongst others, there was an
Ariel with twenty-five rings on its horns, and a Tete,
and three female Tilli. The latter, also a species of
antelopes, are of lighter colour than the Ariels, and
almost white, whilst the Tete has a dark-brown coat
with white breast and belly. The female Tilli are
distinguished by having long tails, but the males are
said to be bare behind. I was not able to leave the
vessel sufficiently early to see a herd of more than a
thousand antelopes that were going to the watering-
place. My huntsman, also, who had struck into
another road, saw some hundred together ; all the
others agreed that there were these thousand which I
have mentioned. But they soon dexterously divided
to the right and the left on the immeasurable level
of this land, where there was merely low grassi wild
bamie and a quantity of basil, which latter was also
met with on all sides in the countries further up ; and

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 255
Suliman Kashef only shot four, and my Sale not a
single one. I myself could only see some antelopes
on the horizon, because it was already getting dusk,
and I stopped with Sabatier close to the vessels, in
case some beast should be scattered from the herd,
but in vain. On this occasion, also, I saw two lions
at a distance.
At night the wind blew in coldly at the door and
windows, and even this morning the north-east wind
was cool. At half-past six we proceed E.N.E., and in a
bend further to the right E. and E. by S., where we
make a stronger evolution to the right. Eight o'clock.
Libahn from S.E. by S. to S. We glide over shal
lows apparently consisting of rubble-stone ; the wind
becomes strong and tosses the waves. A quarter
before nine, S.E. by S. to S., then still more to the
left, where we are soon thrown by the wind on the
left shore, and stop in E.S.E. Thibaut is with me,
and they are calling for him ; his ship is full of water,
and all the crew are summoned there : it is fortunate
that we are near land. Selim Capitan neglected to
have the vessels caulked at Khartum, or to order at
least gotrahm (instead of tar) to be applied to the
parts which we had stopped up with some oakum.
At five minutes' distance above, a large village
deserted by people ; we are magnanimous enough on
our side to keep the crew from plundering it. It is
slightly elevated : the same is also the case with the
shore, so that shallow lakes are formed right and left,
at present dry, and having vents to the water, which
apparently are kept open by human hands for the
sustentation of the soil, — on which, however, nothing

256 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
is seen. A number of snail-shells are lying together
on the surface just as I have seen in other places, and
it seems that snails are eaten. We remain here on
account of the accident to Thibaut's vessel, but the
shores, a, talus, do not allow us to bring it on the dry
land. Thermometer 17° and 24°-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 257

CHAPTER X.
VARIOUS SPECIES OP GRASSES. — FORMATION OF THE SHORES. — WATER
FOWLS.  AN ANTELOPE OP THE TETE SPECIES, NOW AT BERLIN. —
STRATA OF THE SHORE. — THE SOBAT RIVER . THE MAIN ROAD FOR
THE NATIVES FROM THE HIGHLANDS TO THE PLAINS. — OBSERVATIONS
ON THE COURSE OP THE NILE AND SOBAT. — A THOUSAND ANTELOPES
SEEN MOVING TOGETHER ! — WILD BUFFALOES, LIONS, AND HYENAS. —
AFRICA, THE CRADLE OP THE NEGRO RACE. — THE SHUDDER-EL-PAS :
DESCRIPTION OF THIS SHRUB.  ARNAUD's CHARLATANRY. — OUR AU
THOR FEARED BY THE FRENCHMEN. — ARNAUD AND SABATIER'S JOUR
NALS : THE MARVELLOUS STORIES OP THE FORMER.-^THIBAUT'S
JEALOUSY.  VISIT OF A SHEIKH OF THE SHILLUKS.- — FEAR OF THE
TURKS AT THESE PEOPLE. — SULIMAN KASHEF PURSUED BY A LION.
18th March. — We sail at a quarter before seven
o'clock with a cold north-east wind S.E., and then S.
by E. and S. The wind, however, becomes too power
ful ; twice are we driven on oyster-beds — that is, on
those thorn muscles, as if over stones, and have reefed
sails to prevent the ships from going to pieces, their
condition being so bad. A quarter after seven. From
S. by E. to the left. Visible sand-banks in the curve
seem to block up our road, but we managed to pass
by them on the right, with the assistance of the sails,
close to the left shore towards S.E., and away in the
bend to E. by S. Half-past seven. S.E. by E., and
then a .quarter before eight right round ; six hunts
men's tokuls being near a sand-bank on the lower
shore of the projection of the left side of the river.

258 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
We halt on the left by a shallow island clothed with
low verdure towards S.S.W., and intend to stop here
to-day and to-morrow to make observations, and the
most needful repairs to the vessels and sails.
Suliman Kashef shot yesterday evening, at a gazelle-
hunt, a large antelope, called by the Arabs Tete, in
the foreleg, shattering it to pieces ; the animal fell
twice, but made off at last on three legs. Sabatier
and I had chosen the left wing, and concealed our
selves with one of my servants in the high grass :
the former fired and missed. The cracked earth dis
played a magnificent soil : the grass, standing thickly
in tufts, reached up to our breast, and was a great
obstacle at the beginning of our rapid march. It was
still green at the bottom, and the present desiccation of
the ground, on which we remarked everywhere the
traces of footsteps of wild beasts, and their dung,
might therefore have only taken place a short time.
This grass, narrow and three-edged, with cylindrical
spikes, formed the principal produce of the soil.
Less common was the grass similar to our species with
flat two-edged leaves ; it had knotty stalks like the
three-edged, but a couple of spikes grew together on
each blade (I have remarked this previously), which
unfortunately were not yet at maturity, and there
fore very small. The third species of grass consisted
of slender reeds, cropped and sprouting anew, or trod
on the ground. I perceived, also, some bamie grow
ing wild, and birds' nests of grass hanging on it.
I had lost sight of my comrade ; and although at
the commencement of my excursion I had seen the
vessels sailing up the river at my side, it soon became
dark. Suliman Kashef, however, had the sagacity

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 259
on his return to the vessels, to order the reeds to be
set on fire as signals, so that luckily I found my way
back, though sinking every now and then up to the
knees into the deep foot-prints of hippopotami close
to the river,1 — a further proof that the shores, being
only slightly elevated, form shallow lakes here at the
rainy season, which are not dried up so soon.
I had taken a short walk previously on the left shore.
The very same appearances of water remaining be
hind were visible, and I found muscles on the dry
ground, amongst which were the Erethria ovata.
Long traces of little deposits of earth, which, on
closer examination, I discovered to be dams against
the high water on the shore itself; and the alluvial
reeds in conjunction with the muscles, make me con
jecture that the Sobat ascends over its shores here,
as in many other places. Behind these low deposits
lay an unlimited stubble-field on the other side of the
village which lies on a gently ascending hill, elevated
perhaps by the remains of clay walls, and stretching
far beyond the horizon. The better kind of tokuls
have frequently a roof, but the eaves only project
inconsiderably : the smaller ones have a, round form
of roof, low sleeping places and reed- hedges being
between them. Dinkas are said to dwell there ; but
not a person, not a living creature, is to be seen.
Thermometer, sunrise, 17°; noon, 28°; sunset, 26°.
19th March. — We all dine together in the open
air, after an antelope-hunt. The island on which we
are, is, properly speaking, a large broad sand-bank,
about a quarter of an hour long : its somewhat
elevated back is covered with verdure, and is con
nected with the shore on the right at low water-

260 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
mark. Purslane (Arabic Rigli) is found very com
monly upon it ; we see also numerous birds fishing in
the many tongue-shaped segments of the upper part,
and, in fact, sharing among themselves the narrow
lake on the high right shore, close to which is a
village, from whence the people have likewise fled.
These feathered occupants seem to remove very sel
dom from this happy place. The antelopes pre
sented themselves in great numbers; but Suliman
Kashef's body-guard, though generally good shots,
did not know the huntsman's custom of dividing and
forming a chain, so as to catch the herd in the middle.
I had no inclination, either, to join in such a sur
rounding of the game ; for these Turks fire as if they
were shooting in files, and their guns carry far, and are
always recommended to the care of the supreme Allah.
20th March. — Departure at a quarter after nine
o'clock, with a favourable north-east wind, without
sails, S.S.W. and S.W. by W., where, on the right,
behind the high shore, a village lies in the bend to
the left, and below it a broad sand-bank, on which
some long-legged water-fowls are wandering about.
We leave at the right side another sand-bank exactly
similar to the former, throwing its shallows far beyond
the middle of the river, and halt, S.S.E. at the right
shore at half-past ten o'clock. Suliman Kashef's
halberdiers bring eight antelopes, one of which I
procure, being the largest of the Tete species. This
specimen is now in the Zoological Museum at Berlin
as a nova species.
The shores have widened here, and fall off in an
angle of 45° to 50° : though they appear on this
account lower, yet it is plainly visible by the steeper

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 26l
places, that they always become higher. It is only
below in the places where the river beats against, that
the bluish clay is seen : the remaining part of the
shores has, apparently, merely constituents of the
same, as is the case in most places where the high
water has not washed away the crust of humus
crumbling from above and covering the base of the
surface; for the original soil discloses itself imme
diately under the covering of earth, as is seen in
precipices, and clefts in rocks caused by water. The
river has also thrown or deposited thick layers on the
shores. We must not be deceived here by observing
various strata of earth mixed above and below with
sand ; this is a later alluvial deposit.
A pure layer of clay is never to be seen, however,
in these tracts of strata, so far as I have remarked here
and on the Nile. If it does appear, it lies either as the
foundation of the whole, below on the banks of the
water, as on the Nile ; forall the ground there is allu
vial and earthy deposits, gained when the high water
is drawn off ; or it rises, as in the Sobat, with the
talus of the shores to the surface, which is covered
with a crust of humus. The Sobat dug a bed for
itself in firm clay-ground that resisted the water, and
remained tolerably constant in the trench opened by
it, without having altered its course, for no gohrs are
seen on dry ground ; but perhaps, in some places, it
has flowed over its bed, and formed channels. On
the contrary, the White Stream wallowed for a long
time in the deep slime of an emptied lake, before it
threw up solid dams, on which there are marshy
forests, as on the old shores. This long valley-basin
lies also on a layer of clay.

262 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
The Sobat may be considered as a further boun
dary of the peninsula of Sennaar, and have given to
the latter the name of Gesira. Certainly it has been,
like the Blue Nile, a main-road for the tribes of the
highlands of Ethiopia to the valleys of these coun
tries ; and this must have been especially the case
because it has no accompanying marsh-lakes. Such
nations could not have wound down from the moun
tains of Bari and the highlands there, by reason of
the many marshes ; for we are not to suppose that
nomadic tribes can provide themselves and families
with a stock of provisions for a long journey, or
stow entire herds in their hewn-out trunks of trees
(canoes) ; and it is impossible that the cattle could
have been driven along the shore for their use.
The further I ascend the Sobat, the plainer I per
ceive why the right shore just behind Khartum
appears higher than the left, and why I could not
get rid of the idea that this oblique inclination of the
land was in opposition to the course and the mouth
of the Nile, but still might be explained. The deposit
of particles of earth and sand can only come from
above, and will always try to level and equalise the
tracts of land which the Nile covers with showers of
rain, brooks, and rivulets. It is clear that the sur
face is elevated by that means, and that, where these
washed-away and liquid particles of earth reach a
stream like the White Nile, they are carried down
by it, without the other shore (the left side ofthe Nile
here) deriving naturally any advantages therefrom.
The high mountain chain of Fazogl and Habesh
mixed, as I conjecture, its collective waters, owing
to a breach in its partition-walls, and their slime and

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 263
morasses, and perhaps entire hills of decayed and cor
rupted matter connected therewith, filled depths in
the lower valley on the side of the Nile up to the
Delta — its most famous memorial, — and levelled the
mountains of the neighbourhood, when Bertat, Dinka,
and the country between the Sobat and Bari rivers
might have shot up in indomitable strength like arte
sian wells. Such catastrophes roll mountains and
masses like a brook does its little pebbles, and throw
up the water released from confinement in the cavities
of heights which attract and collect it. A flood of liquid
earth rolled then far and wide from the mountains
without order and with numerous arms, but conform
ably to nature, the heavy particles sank. The water
itself washed away, smoothed and levelled the ground.
Therefore now we perceive those immeasurable plains
on the Sobat, whereon beasts cannot hide themselves,
and which would be without shelter in the rainy sea
son, if there were not mountains and forests in the
neighbourhood. Though it be mathematically proved that the great
Nile runs in a channel as upon an ass's- back, yet we
find just the contrary in the White Nile ; but the
Sobat even displays that phenomenon, although not
at this moment, for its shores are emptied, eicept in
the lowermost grade. They lie and stretch higher
than the adjaoent land, being heaped up by the waves
of the river; they are, however, generally narrow dams,
only appearing wide in the places where there are shal
low lakes behind in distant connection, or overgrown
gohrs, the grass . border of which more easily with
stands that deep washing away than these immeasur
able plains, which might be called beautiful from their

264 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
splendid soil, if Ceres waved her golden ears, and
Pomona offered shade and fruit. They shew, indeed,
but little declination to the Nile, for which the Sobat
itself affords the best standard, being stagnant, and its
shores only increasing in height here and there. The
shores become higher, as on the great Nile itself; the
less precipitous ones (although this is only local) are
deceptive, as I have remarked several feet difference
on the disrupt shore, and still more on the return
voyage. I cannot divest myself of the idea that a lake
has stood here also, or it may be that the surface of the
earth from the region above to this, has been laid flat
by the inundation, similar to the level fields of Egypt.
There is an incredible number of deer on the shores
of the Sobat, for I can add from my own conviction,
so far as my eyes and ears do not deceive me, that I
saw herds of antelopes at least a thousand strong-* —
the Turks say from three to four thousand. About
evening they shew themselves in immense lines on the
bare horizon of the steppe, stand still, and approach
-. — their tread sounds, in truth, like the evolutions of
distant cavalry ; at last, as soon as it is dark, they
separate in the little bushes on the margin of the
shore, to descend to the water. Hitherto I have not
been able to seize this opportunity, because no one
would remain with me on account of the lions and
other savage beasts prowling about here, and it did
not seem to me exactly safe, by reason of my close
acquaintance with the lion and his just revenge, to lie
alone behind a bush, and shoot some of the animals
at a few paces off. My cook, however, has promised
to accompany me on such sport, when we come again
to a suitable place.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 265
. We proceeded this afternoon at two o'clock with
sails in a south-easterly direction, and halted for the
sake of antelope-hunting at three o'clock, at the right
shore, E.S.E., before the curve to the right. Four
o'clock : we sail to S.S.E., then a bend to the left,
S.E. by E., where we stop again to hunt and also to
remain. An antelope-herd of about sixty head was
standing shortly before at a little distance on the shore,
like a flock of goats, in harmless innocence and antici
pating nothing evil. Wild buffaloes, lions, and hyae
nas were seen by several of our men : where are the
holes and corners in which these beasts lurk? there
must be mountains. Thermometer, sunrise, 15° ; noon,
26°, 27° ; from four to five o'clock, 28° ; sunset
261". 21st March. — We sail from our place at half-past
six o'clock, quite quietly, without a drum being beat,
and go E.S.E., with a cold north-east wind. Half-past
seven. — From E. Libahn : again to the left, E.S.E. ;
eight o'clock : and then again to the left at nine,
N.N.E., where we stop at the left shore for sport,
pretending that it is owing to the contrary winds. —
Oh you Turks !
M. Arnaud now pays himself in skins, which he
demands very freely for " son Altesse," but wrhich he
intends to sell in France at 500 francs the head.
Eleven o'clock : we go with libahn round a corner, and
come to N, whence the river winds again slowly to
the right, N.E. byN. and to E., where we are driven
forward and indeed without sails. I remark here
that the lower border of the river is rocky, with a layer
of soft stone under the clay, from which it may
originate, and appearing to be limestone formation,
VOL. II. N

266 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
until we break off the deceitful exterior, and the
apparent corrosion by the action of the atmosphere
turns out to be alluvial deposit, — the clay, however,
remaining sticking to the hands like sand. One
o'clock: E.N.E. Allthevesselsbearup! Four o'clock:
three reis had been sent forward with the sandal to
sound the water, and the men were honourable enough
to express their conviction that there was still a
watercourse : we shall get now regularly fixed upon
every sand- bank. I, for my part, would like to make
yet a good way, for I may stumble perhaps upon a
firmer foundation of stone or something else new.
We proceed, therefore, further, — against Mohammed
Ali's will, and certainly against Ahmed Basha's,
who may be very much in want of vessels and men at
this moment, without any invasion on the part of
England or France. E. by N., and we squat again.
A quarter before five o'clock : S.E. by E. Water is
on the right, but we cannot get there because the bed
of the river is elevated in the middle, and these banks
are magnificently larded with the spiry Conchylia,
which would deprive the vessels instantaneously of
their beautiful caulking. The reis are sent out again
in the sandal ; everyone is in doubt what is to be done.
Suliman Kashef and Selim Capitan want to return.
An island lies in view above. I should hke to be
there to make observations, but that cannot be.
Thermometer, 1 7°, 28° to 30°, 27°-
22nd March. — Suliman Kashef sails back for the
sake of the chase ; two other vessels follow : obedience
seems renounced. I go to the island and shoot two
antelopes, dark as it was. No artifice, such as I have
already related, was necessary in this neighbourhood.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 267
23rd March. — We set out indeed at seven o'clock
in the morning for the return voyage, but stop soon
again, notwithstanding the favourable wind at the
right shore, because deer are seen close to it. The
Sobat and the Blue river might be conduits for the
high land, like the Tigris and Euphrates, Indus and
Ganges were for the valley-land, made subsequently fit
for the nourishment of nations. Tradition and history
up to our time, teach us that Nature was not powerful
enough, and perhaps did not wish it, to form ever
lasting barriers between nations, whether seas, rivers,
or mountains ; for the destination of man is perfecta-
bility, which can only be attained by mutual com
mercial intercourse.
Was Africa, therefore, although in the same latitude
as other countries, — for example, Arabia, — exclusively
created for the black species, who, so far as I have
had experience of them, will never leave the low grade
of intelligence in which they have been for so long a
time, until they come into a closer and more conti
nuous association with whites ? Anthropophagy, in
deed, makes the Nile the partition-wall between Asia
and Africa, instead of the Isthmus of Suez and the
Red Sea. Our Sobat (as also perhaps the White
river, unless the black people from below ascended
here after the drying up of that part assumed by me
to have been a lake, which may be almost taken for
granted if we consider the affinity of languages from
the Dinka country to Bari,) drew down probably only
a black race, — a younger stem, I conjecture, than
that of Caucasus, — between which and the nations
of the Nile there is a total difference in colour and
manners. N 2

268 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Habesh, like a second Cashmere, might be the
cradle of white men ; no less than Arabia, lying op
posite, which has nourished perhaps the same species,
but burnt by the sun ; — and if a black race shot up
here instead of the white, the rivers of High Asia that
disembogue on this side were large enough to import
white people. The Red Sea and the Persian Gulf
must, indeed, at the very earliest time, have formed
nearly insurmountable obstacles, if antediluvian ship
building, even without Noah's ark, had not brought
about cultivation, and caused the necessity of exer
tion and the desire of emigration ; and who will
answer for it that the Red Sea was not at one time a
Tempe, so that an excursion to Africa might have
been made under the shade of rose and orange trees ?
The divulsed coasts, the washed-away sharp rocks of
the dangerous shallows, and the submarine mountains,
might easily indicate that there was once a small
irruption. Habesh might have been the real mother country
of Nubia and Egypt, by means of the fecundation
brought from Asia. Nuba negroes mixed with the
whites, and became masters of the country, until they
were forced back to their mountains in Kordofan, — -
still remaining a pure race, and nothing being left of
the whole Egyptian policy but circumcision. The
black nation on the Nile might have been separated
from that in Habesh by a cordon ; and befjrf of these
tribes preferred, on cultivation increasing, a comfort
able life in the city to the free one in the mountains,
until the Romans connected again Habesh and Egypt,
and built Axum.
The shores of the Sobat have hitherto been with-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 269
out wood ; but I saw, upon the shore behind the island
just left by us, a row of trees, said to be Dobkers,
and probably were so ; for I recognised the little soli
tary shrubs, in which I and my servants had groped
about till late at night, to be young shoots of Dobkers,
which seem to have sprung up this year at high-
water; and also nebek and telle. I found water-
thistles on the shore above in unusual abundance, and
collected also that clay which appeared to me previ
ously to be a layer of stone. It was not quite free from
fine sand, which the water had washed on the shore,
and exhibited, therefore, a rough, stoue surface, with
out being so yet. But where it lay piecemeal about
the shore it was as hard and black as stone saturated
with water, and dried or burnt by the sun, for that
luminary has the power, with the assistance of rain,
of vitrifying rocks ; and we have seen ourselves such
greenish ridges and blocks in the Nubian deserts.
According to Girard, the specimens I brought from
the shores of the Sobat consist of a micaceous sand,
dark-brown, ochrous clay, chalky sand, and partly
of a conglomerate composed of small fragments of
limestone baked together by the sun. The sand,
where it is pure, consists of several little yellowish
grains of quartz, a small portion of reddish feldspar,
some brown iron-stone, little brown tombac-mica,
and a black mineral consisting of small grains, the
nature of which could not be exactly ascertained.
These materials indicate that the origin of the sand
is derived from a mica-slate and gneiss mountain not
far distant ; for if the sand were far from the moun
tain whence it originated, it would not contain co
loured mica.

270 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
An incredible number of potsherds were found be
low on the flat shore which is deserted by the river. I
thought to pick up pieces of brick, but I soon discover
ed that they were fragments of that kind of murhaka
which the Shilluks bake from the mixed mud ofthe
Nile, owing to the want of stones. I did not discover
any remains of villages on the shore; they appear,
however, to lie upon the high gohrs, and the pools
arising therefrom, as if upon the primitive shore. These
gohrs of the Sobat running parallel, and lying actually
twenty feet higher,— at times, also, displaying higher
dams or shores than the river itself, indicate more
over that the river in its young days flowed wider
than it does now, without deviating from its direction,
so far as I have hitherto observed. I had an oppor
tunity of convincing myself of what I have stated
above, at the village in the neighbourhood of which I
was shooting, and where I saw two ostriches. Never
theless these potsherds are testimonies either of a
previous and considerable population of the surround
ing country, and even the hill covered with shrubs
above the potsherds might have supported a village,
or that more people dwell above than we should have
supposed ; and the pieces of murhakas may be a sign
that neither stones nor mountains are near at hand,
and that the arts did not flourish; for all these frag
ments were of rude origin. We have never discover
ed traces of any finer vessels of terra-cotta, or pieces of
glass, enamel, or delft ware, such as we find in Egypt.
When the antelopes come to drink, for which they
have room enough, — for instance, yesterday evening
— on the extensive plajn, they appear drawn up as if

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 271
in line of battle, but run away like a flock of sheep —
yet not so close together — as soon as danger threatens.
These animals, so numerous here, might be easily
tamed and fed by the hand of man, if arms did not
prevent such friendship ; the lion and hyaena, besides,
keep them in constant fear and trembling, and take
a tenth part and more of them, in spite of all their
innocence, as we have seen by the remains of saraffes
and gazelles. Perhaps, the great lord of beasts,
with whom I came so closely in contact that it was
only necessary for him to make a spring, to set his
teeth in my bit of Adam's flesh, had made such a
feast on venison before we met.
It is surprising that I have not hitherto seen any
mouse-holes or mole-hills ; the inundation and rains
may be the cause of this, and we have not gone
from the river into the interior of the country. The
Schudder-el-Fas (axe-tree, mimosa sensitiva?) com
mon in Bellet Sudan, is seen on the shore itself, — a
shrub spreading like brambles, with small delicate
acacia leaves, a similar sort of pods, flesh-coloured
button-flowers, and barbed thorns. If its twigs be
touched with an axe, or a knife, or merely knocked
with the finger, its leaves immediately close (from
fear, as the Arabs say) as if they were withered.
I have not yet been able to procure ripe seeds of
this shrub.
M. Arnaud makes a section, but not where the
water running upon a shallower place allows a more
accurate calculation to be made, but there where the
river is full, — namely, in these basins, in which the
water underneath is stagnant, whilst that on the sur-

272 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
face moves as slowly as we have seen the Atbara,
which has the very same deep basins. The public
wilh therefore read of a mighty mass of water, said
to be carried by the Sobat to the Nile : the breadth
of the river amounts here, as below, to one hundred
and thirty metres. •
The section is therefore made, and we proceed at
noon. The strong wind breaks in two the sail-yard of
the vessel commanded by the Arnaut, Mohammed
Aga, because Selim Capitan paid no attention to it,
though it was rotten, — and so was the whole vessel.
We land afterwards at our peninsula or sand-bank,
where there is a settlement of six tokuls. The poor
inhabitants of these little straw huts were perhaps
those whom Thibaut observed when setting out from
hence, and who covered the whole island like a swarm
of flies; whereupon he slily retreated. I rather think
that my European fellow-travellers are afraid of my
being an eyewitness of their doings and acts, lest I
should accuse them of falsehood, or laugh at them
when they exaggerate some small circumstance, or
pretend to have seen wonders, and gone through
frightful adventures with courage : and yet they give
all this out of their journals to their attentive listeners.
It is really as good as a play to see them. Arnaud
and Sabatier have separate cabins in the same vessel ;
and, as soon as one has gone on deck, ashore, or on
board another vessel, the other tries to find out the
hiding-place of his journal, in order principally to
read what is said of him. If Arnaud abuses Sabatier,
the latter gets in a rage ; but on our persuasion rests
satisfied with threats, and sits down and writes against

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 273
Arnaud in his journal : then he leaves it carelessly
lying about, and goes away directly Arnaud enters,
and the latter, immediately his back is turned, seizes
it and reads it. Thus they read their notes and diaries
in secret, and then I have the pleasure of hearing all
about it from Thibaut and Sabatier, who come on
board my bark.
Though Sabatier and Arnaud have related the his
tory of their hunting two little marafills, the latter
has not hesitated to write down that he came close
upon two lions (whereas he only saw two hyaenas run
ning at a distance, whom Sabatier observed at the
same time), because he is jealous, as his countrymen
tell me, of my chivalry with the lion. He describes,
also, antelope, lion, and crocodile hunts with similar
Munchausen stories.
Our tokul inhabitants seem to have gained a little
confidence, although they do not shew themselves, for
they have tied up a sucking-calf close to their huts,
which Suliman Kashef takes immediately into his pos
session. We have here a proof that the water is still
falling, which I had not previously thought: this was
the case in the peninsula to the extent of a foot, and
we shall be obliged to go over the nearest oyster-
bank, after we have remained here half a day, or per
haps the whole, to make the Arnaut's vessel again in
proper sailing trim. Thermometer 16°, 27°, 29°.
We find here, near the Sobat, that the impregnation
of iron oxyde, which is frequently so strong, is only in
the earth brought down from above, in all the humus,
and also in the coagulated layers of sand under or be
tween the humus, but not in the drifted sand. There is
N 5

274 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
no trace of it in the clay ; it is therefore perhaps a
primitive deposit, — the lime or cement ofthe ancient
world. From this appearance of iron oxyde, which is
not inferior to that on the upper part of the White
river, the Sobat might provide Bellet Sudan and Egypt
with iron, if the protecting hobgoblins of the mines be
first driven away. Whether the Sobat leads to gohrs
of gold would be worth investigation, but the sand of
this region has not the least appearance of it. For
that very reason Arnaud is projecting an immediate
expedition up the Sobat this summer to the gold
sources. Oh enviable Viceroy of Egypt, around
whom charlatans of every kind have drawn a line,
within the circle of which no one can penetrate but
Italians of similar calibre, may your eyes be closed
against gold-dust ! At noon we set out from our
halting-place, partly with libahn and partly sailing,
glide here and there over oyster-banks, and soon
stick fast again on the sand.
25th March. — Sate Mohammed and Sale lay down
yesterday to sleep close by, instead of going to shoot.
I felt hungry, and had not prepared anything : the
cook gazed stupidly in the distance ; and I was
obliged to eat soft biscuit and drink water. No
sooner had I taken this than I felt unwell, and con
tinued so till this morning. Thibaut seems to be
possessed with the most trivial jealousy ; he cannot
understand, like all the rest, what I have to write
so continually. The old monotony of the shores has
hitherto continued. Only this morning two groups
of naked Dinkas shewed themselves on the shores,
without running away from us. They brought even

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 275
goats and sheep with them ; but we sailed by, and
halted at noon near the dhellebs, where several
groups of fishermen's huts stood here and there on
the shore. Thermometer 17° to 30° ; sunset 28°.
26th March. — The wind is favourable ; but Arnaud
wants to renew his sections, in order to make the
world believe that the Sobat gives more water than
the White river. He is fishing about, therefore, in
the deep places, and a fall has made its appearance,
which was invisible to other eyes. Yesterday even
ing I said to him, accidentally, that I had an attack
of fever the day before, accompanied with vomiting
and diarrhoea. He immediately complained of his
health, and said that he was suffering under tertian
ague, and dropped a hint that Khartum was very un
healthy, in which I agreed, experience having taught
me the same ; but I saw clearly what he meant —
he intends to play the invalid, and will certainly be
come worse in Khartum itself, so as to induce the
Basha to let him go to Metemma, where he will find
more lucrative work in examining the ruins there
than in composing his map. He eats and drinks,
however, like men in good health — is active on his
legs, even when there is nothing doing— shakes his
round head, talks to himself, lays his finger on his
nose, and looks first to the sky and then to the ground
so quickly that his straw hat, adorned as it is with a
large knot of ribbons, in the Tyrolean style, flaps up
and down. A Turkish under-cap and this hat cover
his partly bald head, on which he has let a pig
tail grow, to make up for the loss of his hair at a
future time. He stands still, and then sets off run-

276 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
ning ; we call him, but his profound meditations will
not allow him to answer. The Turks say, in short,' '
that he is magnuhn (crazed). His usual expression
to the others, " Je le sais tout?'' is worthy of a man of
such varied acquirements as he pretends to be ; but
he does not dare say so to me. When the time
comes that he puts on the appearance of sickness, he
orders Thibaut to be summoned, and makes the latter
understand, if he does not perceive directly the illness
of his lord and master, that he is unwell, and not in
clined for work, and therefore wants to have a little
chat with him. Thibaut sits down very quietly, yawns
now and then, and answers " Oui Monsieur''' to all his
remarks, and thus are the rays of these great minds
reflected. But Arnaud truly is an all-comprehensive
genius ! After he has spoken a little about the way
to make money, &c, it pleases him to fall into a
kind of somnambulism, which will be attributed sub
sequently to feverish delirium — talks some hodge
podge about constellations and declining spheres,
which he means, however, to put in order, and then
all at once turns the conversation from stars to his
property in the moon, or to a royal princess, whose
favours he has refused — all in most beautiful harmony
with what he tries, at other times, to impose on the
world. During all this scene Sabatier sits in his
cabin, and is nearly bursting with laughter. " Relata
refer o."
We navigate part of to-day with a good wind, and
may, therefore, easily reach the Nile. The more I
ascend the Sobat, the more I am convinced how the
shore and land fall away towards the Nile ; and yet

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 277
the former appeared to me high at first, without, how
ever, being much higher ; but then we came from the
Nile, which is shoreless. The Sobat on the tract
navigated by us is like the shore of the Nile near
Kahira, and the more ancient high shores in Nubia.
The greater gradation of its shores at a distance in
dicate a chain of mountains in the neighbourhood, or
an unusually strong falling away of the slope in the
highlands, which is certainly not far distant.
That the Sobat should still retain its old channel
when on the point of discharging itself into the Nile,
as it seems to do 'at the upper part, is very impro
bable, because I saw to-day from the deck merely a
gohr on its left side, at the end of the forest above,
and perhaps flowing into it as usual at high water.
Moreover, the alluvial soil at the lower end of the
Sobat was contrary to the nature of such soft de
posits, and very certainly belonged to that which I
have considered a Nile lake, the reach of which might
always elevate the Sobat sufficiently high. The un
dulating ground extending from the river, and run
ning parallel to it, displays still furrows caused by the
marshes having ebbed away, and the Sobat, rushing
over it afterwards, flowed without opposition wherever
it liked, and might even have separated into several
arms. 27th March. — Yesterday afternoon we arrived at
the mouth of the Sobat, and remain here to-day to
make observations; but if the strong north wind do
not change, we shall not be able to advance. Yester
day evening another man was carried dead from our
vessel, who would not eat, and drank nothing but

278 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
water from the Sobat. A species of marsh hyacinth,
having scent, was found by Thibaut. It has little
bulbs, but spreads and increases by shoots from the
root. Arnaud, who is never at a loss for a name, de
clares that a beautiful water-bird, with perfect web
feet, which we remark, is the Phoenix.
The Shilluks came this morning from the opposite
shore, and asked us to barter with them. This after
noon a Sheikh came to us (unless he was an impostor,
as the one on our ascent was) and invited us to come
without fear to their city, which was close at hand,
and said that cows, poultry, &c. would be brought to
us. He himself presented us a cow, for which we
gave him a ferda. At four o'clock we were able to
proceed with oars : we navigate to E. and E.N.E.
The shores are surprisingly elevated since we were
here, and a considerable drainage of water, probably
the last one, seems especially to have taken place
within these few days . The Nile is not broader here
than the Sobat. Dry grass — reeds at the right ;
large hillocks of decayed ant-castles at the left. Five
o'clock, N.E. ; the foot of an island on the left, behind
which the river becomes broad, and a group of Shil
luks are stationed there on the ground, whilst further
below they have taken possession of the ant-hills, and
stand in the form of a pyramid. The Turks are
dreadfully afraid of these people, and say that they
are " batalin" (bad), because they are aware that the
Shilluks know them well. Feizulla Capitan hashad
a number of cartridges made for his pistols, and
Selim Capitan wears his thick white woollen trousers,
and not without cause.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 279
Soon after five o'clock we stop, conformably to the
wisdom of our high dignitaries, at the uninhabited
right shore, which is considerably higher than the
left, and belongs to the country of the Dinkas, whilst
the Shilluks appear to possess the mouth of the
Sobat, although not protected by forts and guns.
Suliman Kashef was pursued a few days ago by a
lion, notwithstanding he had four halberdiers with
him, but he happily escaped the danger. To shew
his gratitude to Allah, he gave every one of his crew
twenty-five piasters.

280 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

CHAPTER XI.
THE SHILLUKS, A VITIATED PEOPLE. — CAUSE OF THE VIOLENT RAINS
IN INNER AFRICA.  REFUSAL OF THE SULTAN OF THE SHILLUKS TO
VISIT THE VESSELS.  DESCRIPTION OF A SPECIES OP GRASS. — BARTER
WITH THE SHILLUKS. — CONQUEST OF THEIR COUNTRY NOT DIFFICULT.
— FORM OP THEIR BOATS. — AMBAK RAFTS. — IRON RARELY FOUND
AMONG THE EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES.  WORSHIP OF TREES BY THE
SHILLUKS : THEIR RELIGIOUS RITES. — STARS IN THE SOUTHERN RE
GIONS OF AFRICA.  SHILLUK WOMEN: THEIR DRESS.  REFUSAL OF
THE MEN TO SELL THEIR ARMS. — THE SAGHARAS : THEIR DRESS,
ETC.— RE-APPEARANCE OP THE ISLAND PARKS, AND MOUNT DEFA-
PAiJNGH. — ASCENT OP THIS MOUNTAIN, AND FULL DESCRIPTION OP IT.
THE DINKAS : THEIR LOVE FOR OLD CUSTOMS. — DESERTION OP TWO
DINKA SOLDIERS, AND REFUSAL OF THEIR COUNTRYMEN TO GIVE
THEM UP. — SHEIKS SEIZED, AND DESERTERS RECOVERED.
28th March. — We navigated to the neighbouring
island, andpassed by it on the left, N.E. by N., just as
the sun was rising. Where is the meat that was to be
put to-day into the Egyptian flesh-pots ? The Shil
luks will be delighted at having tricked the Turks,
for they are really an extremely vitiated people. Ac
cording to nature, corruption of morals cannot take
place in the very earliest stage of life, and there
might have been, therefore, a previous cultivation
here which has now disappeared, and left only the bad
parts behind. But how could they have gone back
to the naked state ? Slight clothing is even necessary
here : a people that has once worn a fig-leaf never

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 281
throws it off, although a cynic here and there may
choose to lead a free dog-life.
We labour with oars, yet all is in vain against the
north wind ; the river itself remains on the average
N.W. as far as Khartum. About nine o'clock we halt
at the right shore, and see herds and villages of the
Shilluks opposite to us ; but we must make our appe
tites disappear again — " Quid juvat adspectus, si non
conceditur usus ! " Really it was very vexatious ; and
in addition thereto, the new moon has appeared for
the last two days, and yet my bold countryman
whistles and roars, which is so very unusual at this
time that we conclude the same phenomena is taking
place on the Nile.
It has been considered as a thing decided that the
periodical north winds blow the rain from the Mediter
ranean Sea against the mountain terrace of Habesh.
But these are winds which blow also on the Western
Ocean, along the coast of Africa, and find no oppo
sition on the sea and further beyond : the periodical
gales cannot ride at anchor so conveniently on the
not very high mountains of Habesh and last until
the counter gust from India ensues, or until the
clouds have impregnated all the air of Habesh, and
at last fall, from their weight, and bring refresh
ing rain to the country. The Mediterranean Sea
seems to me to afford too small a tract for the sun
and wind to be able to draw a mass of water from it,
like that of a small deluge. Therefore, I think that
quite different phenomena lay the foundation of these
violent rains, and that Habesh, beyond the equator,
may have its conductors of moisture from the Indian

282

EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE

Sea, as well as Egypt by the electrical course of its
Nile. Otherwise Habesh would be enveloped in an
eternal sea of clouds, for the north winds would be
bottled up there half a year, and, by the same argu
ment, the south winds the other six months.

MOUNT LINANJIN, FROM THE ISLAND OF TSHANKAR, TOWARDS SOUTH EAST
27TH JANUARY, 1841.
According to my views, therefore, the north winds
pass over the mountain of Habesh, which if we take
Sennaar, or rather Fazogl, as ten thousand feet high
above the Mediterranean Sea, ought to lie in analo
gous elevation, but which assumption, however, does
not appear correct, if we look closely at the moun
tains of Fazogl. It may be, then, that the ascent
of the ground from the Mediterranean to Fazogl
fills up two-thirds of this height, which may or may
not result from the slight fall of the Nile. General ex
perience teaches us in Germany, that the west wind,
as a rule, brings us too liberal an allowance of rain.
That fountain of ours lies toward the west, in the
ocean : accordingly, the ocean might provide, perhaps,
the valleys of both the Niles and their neighbourhood

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 283
with similar rains, at periodical winds, the uninter
rupted effusion of which during the hariffs (rainy
season) may be derived from other causes, and per
haps may be sought for in the monsoons.
I found the tokuls of the Shilluks slightly arched :
but just now I see a few higher vaults, somewhat like
the Italian cupolas. They are too high to be called
Roman arches. The Romans might have derived
their arch from the sky ; the Italians adopt the ob
lique form : every part ought to be light, slender, and
tending towards the centre. The tokuls must be
considered as the oldest buildings in Africa. Conti
nual rain necessitated good and secure covering, and
a sheaf, tied at the top, may have suggested the
first idea of a tokul, for the violent showers of rain
pierced through the thick horizontal layers of reeds
and straw. Thermometer, 19°, 29°, to 30°; sun
set, 28°.
29 th March. — After the north wind had somewhat
abated, yesterday at noon, we pushed on with oars and
the rope, and halted on the evening at the right shore,
near the Dinkas, where a village was to be seen close
above, from which the inhabitants had fled. A hillock
extended along the river, resting on a down of the
finest white sand ; and this sandy deposit being
covered entirely with dome-trees, mostly young ones,
is perhaps the cause why the river is not half so broad
towards this side as previously. The long hollow
behind the shore, up to the neighbouring old shores,
displays a scanty forest, intersected by two arms of
the Nile, which, for the moment, are stopped up
above and below. I found, on one dam of earth, re-

284 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
mains of a village that had stood here previously. Our
crew did not lose the opportunity of setting them on
fire, without thinking of sparing the young dome-
palms. The proximity of lions is now alleged as the
excuse for the necessity of fires, although we have
seen none since those on the Sobat, always excepting
the ones described by Arnaud in his journal, whom
he attacked chivalrously, with his Fortunatus-cap.
The direction, yesterday, in which we navigated,
deviated more northerly from N.E., whilst to-day we
go N.E. in more easterly declinations. The north-east
wind is therefore against us ; but we are happy
at having escaped from the confined talus of the
solitary Sobat. Our left shore presented us yes
terday, and to-day, dhellebs and some villages in the
most charming situation, two of which I sketched,
and afforded us continually the sight of a green
forest, whilst the right shore displayed only a bare
tract and several villages of the Dinka country, con
cealed from us previously by the high reeds. Dinkas
and Shilluks hold the points of their broad spears
directed towards the ground, according to the custom
of the nations above, and do not throw them, probably
as a sign of their friendly intentions. The spears are
decorated at the extreme end with a little bit of fur
or pelt, which, perhaps, is of the same use in the
javelins as the feathers of arrows among other na
tions. The Shilluks and Dinkas have not any bows
and arrows; and the latter weapon, which is entirely
without feathers in these regions, was no longer seen
after we passed the Nuehrs, who dwell up the river.
We halt in the afternoon, firstly, at the shore of the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 285
Shilluks, near a little hamlet, close to which is the
capital or residence-village of the Sultan of the Shil
luks, whom we had invited even before we left the
Sobat to honour us with his presence, so that we might
present him with dresses and other beautiful things.
But he preferred to remain where he was, and per
haps removed further, or intended to send us an
usurper of his name, as he did the last time.
When we landed, inquiries were made for what
peculiar reason we had come there — whether with
friendly or hostile intentions ; and one messenger
after the other was sent to us, to know whether we
wished peace or war, because Turks had never before
presented themselves in this place. It was no an
swer to them to say that our object was merely to
navigate and survey the river; and the Mek did not
appear on the seene, still fearing, perhaps, treachery —
nay, even kidnapping. I should like to see, however,
the faces of the good Turks, if the Sultan, who they
suppose is afraid of them as the conquerors of the
world, should appear all of a sudden behind the sunt
trees, with a suite of some thousand broad lances !
Those trees have astonished me by their strength,
being about four feet in diameter, and by their pow
erful and now shady branches. The bark of the
lower part of the trunk and the stronger boughs is of
a dirty dark-brown colour ; and the latter, together
with the smaller branches, are like those of the linden-
tree. The small prickles are seen only sparingly
on the boughs banging down, and the whole present
strength of the trees, which have been deserted by
the water since our ascent, seems to lie more in the

286 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
crisped and delicate foliage. The grass, which rose
previously so luxuriantly from the water, lies now
like a thick layer of straw; it appears to continue
lying on the ground like the couch-grass — yet not in
the proper sense of the word, for its roots are those
of grass, — and, from time to time, to strike root, and
also to stand up, if it has not been kept too long up
right by the water, and its slender stalks have not
grown too high. I have remarked this in many places,
and seen both these species at the same time upon the
very same root, the blades having been cropped
every now and then, growing crisply, and standing
upright on all sides ; it might be, therefore, the savan
nah grass, and therefore I secured a specimen of this
grass. I have not been able to ascertain whence the
Shilluks and other tribes derive the little rice,
which is also a species of grass. A specimen of the
fruit is also in my possession ; it comes up, perhaps,
like wheat. The Shilluks do not seem to be very
much afraid : they are ready to engage in barter,
although they do not come quite close to us. Perhaps
they think to drive us away first, by not supplying
us with meat.
SOth March. — There was an enlightened assembly
yesterday evening, on board Suliman Kashef's ves
sel : all the lanterns of the Turks were lighted, and
were fixed around it. There is nothing done now
without light; we are recalled, therefore, from the
chase by lanterns, even if it be only dusk. I pro
posed, yesterday, either to present ourselves in pro
pria persona to the Mek, at his residence close by

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 287
(said to be only two hours distant), or to receive him
in the open air, if he could be persuaded to come, and
not to invite him on board the vessels, according to
the favourite custom, because in that case, he might
probably turn back. They agreed with me, and —
there the matter ended. The boats of the Shilluks
exceed in size and solidity those of all the other tribes.
This people also frequently place two trees together,
and bind them together at the bottom by ropes.
Their boats have long peaks, and carry twenty to
thirty men, sitting in a line behind one another. The
different colour of the bark of the talles — I had seen
them previously red, and now of a palish green —
seems to depend on the nature of the soil.
The royal cranes, so often mentioned, are in extra
ordinary quantities here, and we provide ourselves
abundantly with them, but got very few other birds-
They keep together in flocks, and walk now on the
dry old river-bed, which consists of the most fruitful
earth, and extends at two hundred paces distant from
the Nile. This ancient, flat, and choked-up bed of
the Nile, being subject to inundations, is perhaps
the place between which and the country beyond the
vigorous forest was planted ; for I remarked yester
day, that the forest stands more under the horizontal
line than on the rising of the shores.
Just now Fadl and Sale came from the Shilluks,
some of whom have encamped at a tolerable distance
from the river. I did not accompany them, because
the natives would infallibly have gone away again,
if they had seen a white countenance, as that is con
nected in their minds with a Turkaui. A broad

288 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
spear could not be procured from them; they said
that every one had his spear, and ought to keep it :
moreover, they gave my men to understand that their
Mek would not appear until we had also a sultan on
board, and that we ourselves had come to their land
as spies. Two of them were tolerably conversant in
the Arabic language, but very few of the others
understood it. One of them possessed a small ele
phant's tooth, as my servants further related, but the
glass beads I had given them were not sufficient to
purchase it, nor a sheep. They do not despise orna
ments, and were presented with abundance of white,
thick glass beads (the blue are not esteemed) ; but
they prefer, however, objects of real value, and
wanted, for example, half a ferda for the sheep.
They said that they were frequently visited by Gelabis
(slave-dealers, merchants), and that even the day
before yesterday, they (the Shilluks) had been visited-
by some of them, who had come from Khartum on
camels, and brought cotton goods, ferdas, beads, &c,
which they had exchanged for cows, teeth, honey,
simsim, and kurbaks. A cow costs a ferda, and such
a piece of cotton stuff is valued as money, for we
never see them clothed in it.
It is a striking circumstance, that a merchant is
esteemed by them almost a sacred person ; however,
I would not recommend any white man to undertake
this business here, if he does not wish to be murdered
as a much-beloved Turkaui.
31st March. — We leave our landing-place at three
o'clock, without having seen the sultan of one of the
largest, if not the very largest nation of the White

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 289
Nile. Another fellow, however, who came, pretended
to be the Sheikh-el-Bellet (according to him, a son or
relation of the sultan and his envoy), and was pre
sented with pearls and a piece of calico conformably
to the Turkish policy. We halt for the night at the
left shore. A very large number of black ibes are
remarked on the trees: their flesh has a fine flavour.
1st April. —Now that I know something of the
country of the Shilluks, which on the whole, perhaps,
only amounts to a tract of shore, the conquest of it,
as well as of the land of the Dinkas, does not appear
to me very difficult from this side, even if the Shilluks
were determined to offer real resistance. The army
could defile (that is, in the dry season) along the
shores up the stream, and cover the towing-path, which
is necessary here, owing to the south winds, and the
vessels could carry the provisions ; there is no Haba
either to fear here, as in Taka, Certainly such an
expedition would be only to press soldiers, or perhaps
also to subdue the whole country ; for as to other
treasures, they are not to be acquired, except the
large herds, from which the future tribute might
be drawn. If Ahmed Basha, however, — for I have
him in my eye, — could once raise an army of these
black devils of Shilluks and Dinkas, whom he himself
allows to possess the greatest courage, then he might
think of other and more profitable conquests.
That broad, choked-up gohr, of which I spoke
previously, seems to continue, and perhaps does so
always with the old high shores, which, however, may
be distant enough. They are now invisible on both
sides, and the new shores are mutually of the same
VOL. II. °

290 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
height as they have been for some days. Notwith
standing this, I must still assert that the Dinka land
lies higher than that of the Shilluks, and that both
the barrenness of the former and tbe dense wood of
the country on the left shore are derived from this
cause. On the other hand I have altered the opinion
expressed on the ascent, that we ought to keep in
view only the old or high shores, in composing a
map ; although it would be extremely instructive to
mark them on the charts, for the present shores are
high enough here at least — about five or six, and
up to ten feet at our landing-place — to be considered
as shores.
We make the bend from N. E. to E.s and the Gebl-
el-Dinka or Defafaungh seems to peep forth down
the river before us, but it is only a delusion. The
villages, or rather the long-tailed city of the Shilluks,
Jemmati, Gennap, called by the Arabs therefore per
haps Dennap, advances with its groups of houses and
forest to the margin ofthe river, and crowds of people
have collected shortly below our landing-place. We
halt at the left shore a little before sunset, which is
at present charmingly decorated with grass and trees;
the former, however, only below on the flat strand.
2nd April. — Some Shilluks from the neighbouring
village were on the shore, but drew back a short
distance when they saw me coming. I had experi
enced a violent perspiration in the night, for we had
yesterday evening 30° Reaumur in our cabin, where
not a breath of air was stirring, and therefore, being
in a perspiration, I had just now thrown over me my
burnus, under which certainly a gun might be very

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 291
easily concealed. The Shilluks are not generally
timid, especially if they be in a body. It were, in
truth, too much to expect that they should prove their
courage, in a small troop t.nd armed merely with shield
and spear, against guns that hit at a distance, and send
invisible and inevitable death.
Their little floating vessels, which we see so fre
quently standing against the trees on the shore,
serving as fishing-boats, and also for crossing to the
opposite side, consist in the Nile merely of a bundle
of reeds, and have the form of a flat skiff, obtuse at
the stern, because the ambaks are joined together at
the slender end, and tied in three or four layers one
over the other, to make the vessel broader behind :
there are two holes at the bottom for the feet. They
go quickly, and a long flat oar is used to propel them
along, as in the other boats : their name is generally
with the Arabs, toff, and with the Barabras, geihga.
The ambak rafts that come from Sennaar, or
Rosseres to Khartum, are large, and carry a freight
of one hundred ardepps of durra. A little wood
approached this morning also on the right to the shore,
but having no trees like that of the left shore. I
thought previously that the Haba of the Shilluks was
scanty, but I have altered my opinion by ocular in
spection : the trees must appear thin, even at a short
distance, for the stunted thick stems generally stood
in the water.
Iron is very rare among the Shilluks as in all
Bellet Sudan, notwithstanding the proximity of Kor-
dofan; and it does not seem that the kingdom of Bari
has ever 'provided Ethiopia and Egypt with iron, for
o 2

292 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
very few instruments and arms made of this metal are
found amongthe antiquities, but, on the contrary, they
are of brass and other metals. The use of iron, how
ever, is very ancient, and perhaps a black Tubal
Cain may have hammered there long before the tribe
accumulated, sufficiently to shew the characteristics of
a nation. If an Ethiopian tribe descended from Bari,
it possibly kept up a communication with the iron
country, from the want of iron in Nubia, though per
haps not by a direct road ; or if only a tradition of
iron-mines existed, a Rhamses or some other great
king, might have followed and traced them out ; for
the White River was just as accessible as at present,
and the vessels of that age would have found more
room for sailing, — that is, supposing a Daedalus had
discovered also sails for Egypt, which we may sup
pose to be the case from their sea-voyages, and which
is also confirmed by the hieroglyphics.
It was ascertained yesterday that the Shilluks
pasture their cattle wherever they like. The great
inundation of this year has covered their former pas
ture-ground with slime, or the water has retreated
so lately that there is not yet sufficient grass, and
the little that has sprung up is already consumed.
On account of this want of grass a large number of
Shilluks collected, and armed with broad spears,
drove their cattle from the mouth of the Sobat down
to this part, and still further to the right shore of
the Dinkas. The latter drew back modestly, and
pasture now in the interior, renouncing Nile fish for
the present.
The Shilluks are feared, and particularly because

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 293
they always go in bodies, and even descend to pasture
as far as the Sagien of Mustapha Bey, on the left
shore. They behave very peaceably, on the whole,
towards us, principally because their Sultan has or
dered them to avoid giving any cause for strife, and
to leave the good Turks in peace. Yet the latter are
still in great fear, and Selim Capitan is very unwilling
to pass the night on the left shore, so we anchor
afterwards in the river. We hear in this country, as
in Taka, the greeting of "Hababa."
I have convinced myself to-day that the villages
visible from the Nile, standing, as I thought pre
viously, on the old shore — that is, from the southern
part of the Shilluk land down the river till sunset to
day — do not stand higher than the present shore, and
that, if they appeared to me to lie higher, it arises
from the low region extending behind the shore on
both sides of the river, and covered with water.
Every village, however, here lies somewhat high, for
the ground is elevated by itself, through the decay of
the old buildings, and the erection of new ones upon
them ; or this has been done by the foresight of the
inhabitants, as we have also remarked. We remain
to-day at the right shore ; but not any of the people
of the country are to be seen. Thermometer 19°, 30°
to 31°, 29°.
3rd April. — We navigated this morning to N., with
a few deviations to N.N.W., and halted at noon, by
reason of the strong wind. Then we went on to N,
and in a bend to W., where a long road stretched
before us. Now, in the afternoon, we sail, and shall
navigate longer, perhaps, than usual, for the Turks

294 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
are hastening to Khartum and its pleasures. The
right shore has some trees here and there. The
forest on the left sometimes comes to the shore, and
sometimes level alluvial land separates it from us.
Sabatier and I ate with great go'&t to-day, on
Thibaut's vessel, two of the three geese we procured
yesterday ; but Thibaut had nothing new to shew us,
except a soffeia (funnel for Merissa), brought from
Bari. The people there manage to console them
selves for the want of wine with their African mum,
made from durra, as they do in other places with
mead and beer. We stop after sunset at the Dinka
shore, W.N.W., near some trees. Thermometer 18°
(cold north-east wind), 29°, and 28°.
Ath April. — To-day again the wind is contrary.
We go this morning N., with easterly deviations, and
in the afternoon N.E., with a few declinations. There
are several villages on the left shore ; we halt at the
right, and the Shilluks retreat. Suliman Kashef
confirms to day what I had already heard, viz., that
the Shilluks worship a tree. They call it by the
general name of Nigama, which is said to have been
introduced by the Great Sheikh, their ancestor, the
founder of their union as a tribe, the father of the
nation, and their law-giver. Almost every village
has such a Nigama, which is generally a sunt-tree.
The place round it is enclosed, and the ground is
kept very clear. On any misfortune occurring, the
Shilluks throw themselves on their face, under the
tree, and call and cry for assistance. It is considered
identical with the holy founder of their race. Whether
he ordered them to act in counsel after his death

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 295
under a tree, and to complain to him; or appointed
the tree as a mediator, through which they might
converse with him; or, lastly, he may have been
buried under such a tree, which thus became an object
of veneration ; and subordinate Nigamas spread then
with the increase of population. Moreover, the holy
circuit of the Nigama affords an asylum even to the
enemy, and also to snakes, toads, and other animals,
which are even considered sacred during their abode
there, and fed with milk. A similar canonization of
rats and mice is represented in the Egyptian temples.
The Shilluks hang cows' tails, tufts of hair, &c, on
the Nigamas, as sacrifices.
The germ of gratitude is undeniably planted in the
heart of human beings, as in that of animals ; and the
man of nature who does not enter into more abstruse
speculations will not destroy what does good to him,
but, on the contrary, foster and cherish it; then
comes love, and gradually veneration is paid to it.
Idolatry, though often made absurd and laughable
enough by superstition and individual notions, may
have arisen originally from natural instinct, and is,
perhaps, spread throughout all the countries on the
Nile, though we have not been able to obtain satisfac
tory information on this subject from want of a
dragoman, even had he only been slightly intelligent,
and able to comprehend the questions properly. But
this much appears certain, that the object of venera
tion among these nations does not dwell high in
heaven. They had no knowledge of the worship of a
Supreme Being. Perhaps their gods stand around
them, or walk friendly with them, and eat out of

296 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
their cribs. Even beasts, injurious or fatal to man,
may receive gratitude and veneration from them in
return fdr some instance of magnanimity. Thermo
meter 20°, 29°', and 28°.
5th April. — We have stopped since yesterday at a
narrow and bare island near the Shilluks, to make
astronomical observations, and shall probably remain
here to-day. It would delight an astronomer to gaze
at the stars in these southern regions, which are never
seen in Europe — as for example, the Crozier of the
south, Canopus, which, according to our two learned
astronomers, was even invisible in Alexandria, and
had been first seen by them in Korusko.
Two of my servants have just returned from the
Shilluks. I remarked yesterday and to-day that when
the women belonging to the villages lying not far
from the shore, and close to one another, came to
water the herds, with their well made and nearly
round pitchers on their heads, the meh accompanied
them, spear in hand, in consequence of the wicked
enemy being in the vicinity. The women did not wear
cotton stuff round their hips, but front arra back
aprons; and some had a third, a leathern one, without
hair, thrown over the shoulders, or on the back. Man
appropriates to himself the cotton stuff, when luxury
goes so far, which is, however, very rare; yet he must
be a chief of a village or a Sheikh, to be able to wear
it, as is the case with the tribes up the river. My
men were not able to purchase a spear or a shield
from them. One of the Shilluks, who spoke Arabic
well, declared that they wanted the spears themselves,
and never sold them to Turks ; that they were obliged

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 297
to protect the cattle by weapons, and that by means
of these beasts they purchased their corn, which does
not grow in their country (perhaps in this year owing
to the inundation), from which circumstance they
were obliged to eat locusts (gerat). My men were
sent away after this short conversation, during which
they were courteously invited to sit down, as I saw at
the distance. We proceed an hour before sun-rise
from our place, but can only make a short course, in
consequence of the wind being contrary, and soon halt
again at the shore of the Shilluks ; to-morrow we
ought to be near Mount Defafaungh. Thermometer
sun-rise, 18°; noon to three o'clock, 30cto 31° ; sun
set, 29°-
6th April.— Still a contrary wind ; the direction
N.E., with easterly deviations. We saw a scanty
forest on the right, but not any habitation, — mostly
alluvial soil, which previously stood under water,
even between the trees. When we set foot on such a
ground as this, we cannot imagine from whence the
reeds, partly burnt away, have sprung. The straw
in wads covers the ground here and there, and solitary
reed-stalks, the leaves of which seem blasted by the
sun and wind ; yet there are still tracts with reeds on
wet soil : also some groups of reed or long straw huts,
like beehives, stand on the left shore. In the after
noon we observe several birds, and the longing after
meat drives the vessels of our General and Admiral to
the right shore, where copsewood and isolated trees
display themselves. Some of our party went off to
shoot guinea fowls.
7th April. — Set off at an early hour, with a contrary, o 5

298 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
though not a strong, north-east wind, and continued
in a north-easterly direction till some hours after sun
rise. I hear the joyful cry of " Bagharas !" and per
ceive immediately from the window a dozen of these
mounted herdsmen, who spring forward to the margin
of the shore on the left side of the river, greet, and
make signs to us. To see horses for the first time
after several months gave me a delightful sensation.
It is, perhaps, certain, that cultivation has not as
cended the river from hence, for otherwise the useful
horse and the camel, which subsequently became in
digenous on the Nile, would not have been forgotten,
being two of the most necessary animals on earth.
Flags and streamers, with the insignia of the Pro
phet, were hoisted to welcome the bold horsemen as
Mahommedan brothers, and to soften their hearts.
Then begins a barter for butter, milk, and sheep,
but these Anti-Christs are hard to deal with, for they
make us pay dearly for everything; yet they also take
glass beads as well as gold. It is delightful to view
these well-known heads, with their hair twisted back
in a tuft. The men in blue shirts carry three or four
lances, holding the longer and stronger one in their
hand. The pretty girls wear a ferda round their
hips, and the swelling bosom is uncovered. A ring
decorates their nostrils, as in other regions, but, on the
other hand, they wear long hair, falling in tresses on
their shoulders— an ornament which we have never
beheld in the upper countries. These horsemen, em
ployed as an avant garde against the Shilluks, whom
they do not fear in the least, are, accsrding to
Marian, a bold stem of the Bagharas from Kordofal

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 299
(the last syllable fluctuates between fai and fan) who
call themselves Abanies. Their Sheikh, who is said
to be known to me, is called "Wood el Mamiid." I
cannot, however, recall his name to my recollection,
although he has been with us in Khart m.
The first island-park appeared this morning on the
left, its convolvuli in full verdant splendour, and con
siderably elevated above the water ; another one fol
lowed, but the variegated flowers were absent, and
the lower part of the foliage of the hanging creepers
was dry, having been covered longer by the water.
We halted at the left shore to wait for the oxen
and sheep which the Bagharas had promised to bring,
but these brothers in Mohammed, were too well ac
quainted with our Abu Daoud, Suliman Kashef, who
would have dispensed with any payment, and there
fore they did not shew themselves. " Naas batalin"
(bad people) they were called, — and we navigate in the
afternoon further to N.E., and wind to E., where the
isolated Mountain Defafaiingh, hanging over tbe river,
sets me on tenterhooks of expectation. Here I shall
see pyramids and enormous walls, for the whole rock
is said to be formed of burnt bricks (Top achmer).
This might have been, therefore, the halting point for
the archaeology of the Ethiopian world. I must set
out on my travels early in the morning and sketch
the outlines of its ruins, even if I catch a fever that
may continue several days.
8th April. — I was on my feet before daybreak, and
woke, as usual, my men from their heavy sleep ;
I drank a strengthening draught of yemen, and set off
with Thibaut, Sabatier, and three servants, one of

300 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
whom carried a goat's skin, containing water, to the
mysterious mountain which, as the final end of Egyp
tian or Ethiopian civilization, the first or last power
of human art, may afford so much eclaircissement to
science. Cheerful and brisk — for the sun had not
yet risen — I walked with the ostrich and crane, as I
called Thibaut and Sabatier, on account of their quick
strides, through the Ambak wood, and the long grass
of the Savannah-prairie, which was partly burning
under our feet. But soon the depressed land of
an old river, with standing water therein, lay be
tween us and the foot of Mount Defafaiingh. We
perceived by some trees here, on a level with the
shore of the Nile, that the water had risen four feet
high — what a lake, then ! — and, therefore, the Ambak
was lying dry, and its root bent and feeble. Arnaud
was advancing far behind us, with the military escort
given to us for our protection, which we thought we
could do without. When we saw armed natives at a
little distance from where we stood, my two French
men made a show of courage, but seemed to me to
hide their fear under the cloak of joking. It would
have been disgraceful to stop and wait for Arnaud,
and so one after the other rode upon the shoulders of
our strongest servants, to whom a comrade gave his
hand, so that he might not stick in the clay soil and
morass, and we crossed in this manner a narrow gohr,
leaving the little lake and the standing pools at our
left. On we went through the dried low ground until we
arrived, after walking a mile or so, at the foot of the
mountain where the ground is again elevated, and

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 301
contains some trees (also dome-palms). I let the
others ascend as if they were running for a wager,
and looked right and left for antiquities, picking up
stones with which the steep path I had struck into
was bestudded, whilst the long grass and low bushes,
but still more the projecting rocks, made the ascent
difficult and laborious. Some ledges of rocks encircle
the gable-end like a crown ; no human being could
have chiselled here, nor has nature so disposed them
in her natural course ; I knew the cause from what I
had already seen, and from the specimen I had put
into my fowling-bag ; I was standing upon volcanic
ground, and therefore I might expect to see a crater
on the top. Reddish ashes and pieces of lava of
similar colour filled the space between the rocks, the
porosity of which, as well as the particles of shining
black little stones, similar to coals and porphyry,
convinced me that they have also undergone a power
ful volcanic fire, which has dried up all the pores ;
or the entire mountain might have risen from a sub
terraneous forge, and poured over itself a thick coat
ing of lava like liquor from a foaming goblet.
If we go upon the supposition, that it is an inde
pendent volcano, and not merely an elevated volcanic
mass, we may easily recognize in the top an extinct
crater, levelled by the fallen walls of rock, such as we
see even now on the eastern side, by lava and vol
canic mud, wherein ants at present wallow, and by
the crumbling fragments of projecting rocks. The
summit of this burnt-out volcano forms an oval
terrace from N. W. to S. E. ; the north-eastern part,
however, is shelving, but the reservoir of lava could

302 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
not be transplanted here, for some of the breaks of
the mountain in that part, are precipitously disrupt,
and there are no signs of a lava stream below. The
porous rocks on the summit, exhibit a kind of decay,
entirely earthy and friable, so that we might believe
that they were once covered with boiling mud. The
curved rocks, jutting out to the south, are smooth,
considerably lower than our summit, and separated
from it by a horizontal rocky wall, cleft here and
there, which surrounds the crater at the top, and is
not higher on the side we are than five to ten feet.
The flat part of the upper ring falls away slightly to
the west, and no lava stream was to be seen here. If
the great lake so often spoken of by me existed at
one time, its waters never perhaps dashed over the
summit of this Stromboli, which is about four hun
dred feet high, much as it might increase by the
opened sluices of the high land, and thus be in a
condition to reach the volcanic mountain itself. An
immeasurable circular plain lay now at our feet, in
which the Nile extended from W. to N. ; at its side,
turned towards us, were several standing mountain
streams, which join the Nile again at the rainy
season, and testify to the changeableness of the
course of the river, whose waters formed at one time
a large lake at the foot of this mountain, and still
do so at high water. No city, therefore, could have
stood here, and still less on the little summit of the
mountain, where also not a single fragment speaks
in favour of the previous existence of Tokuls, al
though the mountain would have afforded the most
splendid building materials to a nation, that had even

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 303
only attained a moderate degree of cultivation. I knew
already that we should find no ruins here, for the
so-called ruins were said to consist of top, or bricks ;
and the fragments of stone have a great similarity to
bricks, but only at the first superficial glance. The
Turks, however, had taken these stones for bricks,
and their fiery imagination pictured immediately
pyramids, fortresses, and tombs ; which assumption
appeared more credible to me, because by embracing
it and believing in such an existence, I hoped to be
able to trace out, whether the cultivation of the
Ethiopians travelled up or down the river. After a
few glances, however, at the upper valley of the
White Nile, I was soon persuaded, that Defafaiingh
only remained as a ne plus ultra, an ever-interesting
boundary-mark of the cultivated western Ethiopia.
The prospect from the top presented to us some
Dinka villages towards S., and a distant chain of
mountains to S. E., and another to E. These seem
also to lie isolated in the immeasurable plain, from
the waters of which they might have stood forth, at
one time, like islands. We saw the dung' of hyaenas
and antelopes ; and thousands of guinea-fowls enticed
us to descend by a steep path on the south-eastern
side, where the earlier volcanic phenomena were seen.
I scrambled down, whilst the others were shooting,
whom my huntsmen had followed by spontaneous
impulse; twice I aimed and fired, but my gun flashed
in the pan, and I had no more caps. I was therefore
obliged to let the birds, driven up from below by Su
liman Kashef's Turks, fly round my head, or rise
under my feet to the number of fifty to one hundred

304 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
head, without even being able to kill them by throw
ing stones, or treading them to death. I thought
habeat sibi, and wandered over the numberless wild
paths, intersecting one another, between thorns and
long straw, to the nearest reach of the mountain,
which is only slightly elevated towards it in N.E., but
of equal height to its base. Up rose a flock of
guinea-fowls here, another covey alighted there ; they
jumped up and run on all sides to hide themselves, or
flew to the slopes of the mountain, where they were
received by the soldiers standing above, with a dis
charge from their terrible weapons, which perhaps
they had never heard before. Some of the birds
smelling powder, who were in the neighbouring copse-
wood, called the others in vain to leave the circuit of
their hitherto Zion.
In the meantime I had found a solitary fragment
of a Burma, red outside and black inside, made in the
same manner as those of the Shilluks, and I roved
about the mountain from S.E. to N., where several
blocks of rock were lying below which had fallen from
the mountain, and seemed to be porous basalt, or
tophus (the latter most likely, from the regularity and
fineness of the pores). These blocks lay scattered
far and wide to the east, having sharp corners like
those of a red-brown colour, which stand forth as
pilasters from the west side of the mountain itself.
They appear, however, to have been thrown by vio
lence, rather than rolled to this distance. These
blocksj which formerly covered the mountain here as
thick crusts of lava, and under which still other crusts
may lie, are broken off nearly in a horizontal line

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 305
towards the river, and might, therefore, together with
their clefts, easily suggest the idea of ancient circular
walls or fortifications, to the Arabs and Turks. Per
haps it is from this cause that the Defafaiingh is called
also Berba ; for Birbe means a ruin in Arabic. We
found there a cave — perhaps there are several — formed
of stones piled up one over the other, equal in size to
the one at the top on the south-eastern side of the ter
race, and inhabited by wild beasts, as we concluded
from the hyaenas' dung ; on the north-eastern side we
remarked several holes and fissures in the rocks, oc
cupied at day by owls, and at night by the guinea-
fowls. We saw the former and heard of the latter
from some Dinkas, after we had assembled under the
shade of large tamarind-trees, on which already there
was ripe fruit.
The Dinkas came, laid down their spears at some
distance, greeted us with their " hababa," and sat by
our side in a friendly manner. No sooner did they
see the dead guinea-fowls than they told us, that they
kill them either with stones, or by catching them in
the evening in the holes and cavities of the rocks.
They were presented with some tobacco at their re
quest, contrary to the usual custom of the Turks,
who do not shew such favour to these " Abit." They
thought the " burab" (report) of guns was "affiat"
(good and fine), but they were afraid of it, like all
Negroes, and so much so that it appears laughable to
us ; but what ideas may they connect with the simple
report, and what species of spirit or devil may they
suppose to be raised in the gun !
There cannot be much worship of trees here, for

306 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the neighbouring villages have not any shady trees ;
although these splendid tamarinds, with a trunk of
five to six feet thick, and dense foliage, to the foot
of which moreover the water reaches, as we see by
the foot-prints of the Hippopotami, which serve me as
an arm-chair, certainly deserve care and gratitude.
But there was very little cleanliness at the place
where we were sitting (to be silent of the ground being
trod smooth by men), and the boughs of the trees did
not shew any marks of consecration ; there might
have been, perhaps, about one thousand head of black
birds sitting on them. We proceeded afterwards along
the dry margin of the lake to the two layers of rocks
projecting from the ground, wherein we recognise
basalt, also porous, but displaying great hardness on
breaking off the upper crust. I dare not decide
whether this lake be not an extinct crater choked up
by the Nile, similar to the Laacher See on the
Rhine. Girard, who has examined my specimens, says in
deed truly, — " The mountain is clearly an extinct
volcano. It rises probably from a basaltic plateau,
for basalt, olivine, and pyroxene appear on it, and
red-brown porous lava, with large circular horn
blende crystals, as well as dark blue tophus, formed
from clear porous scraps of lava and fine ashes, seem
to cover its declivity. The tophus, as well as the
lava, does not contain any vitreous feldspar, yet pu
mice stone shews itself under them, but all the pro
ducts of the volcano prove that it is only converted
basalt." Everything was therefore collected here to form a

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 307
frontier-fortress ; but perhaps it is reserved for another
age to see a new Nigritia flourishing under the aus
pices of an enterprising man, who has money, and
will undertake men-hunts. Certainly, by that means,
the whole country would be deprived of the free and
independent negroes; who, notwithstanding their
poverty, will not enlist for gold and silver. They even
prefer to remain in the old state, for they love old
customs, even if they have seen or been obliged to
have better ones. One example will suffice for many.
Several Dinka slaves deserted from Fazogl, who had
been made craftsmen, taking with them all the imple
ments of their trade. They appear, however, to have
done the latter, not on account of the greater useful
ness of such tools, but merely for the sake of the
iron, to make spears or bracelets of it: this, at least,
our soldiers and Dinkas affirmed. Some of the de
serters were also shipwrights, but yet we have never
seen a boat, although it would be so useful to them
in their marauding expeditions.
The Dinkas accompanied us now to our ships,
bringing milk and butter with them; but we found
that they mix cow's urine with the former, which was
quite sufficient to disgust us, but not so our servants.
The discovery of the desertion of two Dinkas from
my vessel delayed the continuation of our journey;
their village, parents, and relations were near this
mountain. We had a long parley with their country
men, who continued faithful for some time, and would
not deliver up the two soldiers. At last, when all
the threats were of no avail, and we had ordered our
soldiers to get their arms ready, some one managed

308 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
to entice with a good grace three sheikhs on board
Selim Capitan's vessel, whom we had shortly before
clothed. We bore off from land, and the poor Dinkas,
who were too few to make war against us, saw them
selves compelled to give up their brothers, who were
immediately then laid in irons ; because, according to
Turkish custom, these kidnapped men, although they
have not taken the oath of allegiance, are subject to
French military discipline. But it was contrary to
Turkish usage to restore the shiekhs without further
extortion, and they would certainly have been car
ried to Khartum, if no Franks had been present,^-
who speak, however, frequently in vain. Even the
voluntary slaves were put in chains until they were
far distant from their native country. I begged for
mercy for the poor prisoners, but in vain: we then
made a short course and halted, for good reasons not
at the shore of the Dinkas. Thermometer up to
32°.

u

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 309

CHAPTER XII.
LANDING IN THE TERRITORY OF THE BAGHARAS. — DESCRIPTION OF THEM.
THEIR HOSTILITY TO THE DINKAS, AND MARAUDING EXCURSIONS
INTO THE COUNTRY OP THIS TRIBE. — CURIOUS POSITION IN WHICH
THE LATTER TRIBE STAND. — MOUNT NJEMATI : EXAMINATION OP IT.
— A SHRUB-ACACIA.  APPEARANCE OF ELEPHANTS AND LIONS. — GEO
LOGICAL DESCRIPTION OP THE MOUNTAINS. — MONKEYS APPEAR AGAIN.
— MOHAMMED ALI UNDER THE FORM- OF AN HIPPOPOTAMUS. — ISLAND
OF ABU. — THE HASSANIES. — A HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED BY SULIMAN
KASHEF. — SHORES OF THE NILE COMPARED TO THOSE OF THE MISSIS
SIPPI. • — EL AES. — THE KABBABISH ARABS. — HEDJASI. — THE MOUN
TAIN GROUP OP ARASKOLL. — CONDUCT OP SULIMAN KASCHEF TO A
SHIEKH AND ARABS. — BEST WAY TO TREAT THE TURKS. — THE DOWNS ;
THEIR NATURE. INTELLIGENCE OF THE DEATH OF SOLIMAN EFFENDI
AND VAISSIERE. APPROACH TO KHARTUM. ARRIVAL, AND MEETING
OP OUR AUTHOR WITH HIS BROTHER. CONCLUSION.

9th April. — Our direction yesterday was gene
rally N ; to-day N. with deviations to the East. We
landed early at the left shore, near the Bagharas, who
received us on all sides in a friendly manner, and dis
played here real hospitality, — with a little craft and
self-interest. The mighty bond of language, race and
religion, knit immediately reciprocal confidence, which
begot eloquence, and lively questions and answers.
The herdsmen, part of whom had handsome physiog
nomies, surveyed our vessels. Whilst their horses
remained close by, they brought goats and sheep to
us, holding them by a rope, a kurbak in one hand,

310 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
and a long lance and three javelins in the other;
and seemed, on the whole, to be a more cultivated
and cleanly people, in spite of their dirty ferdas
and kittels, which, being originally of a white or blue
colour, were not strongly contrasted one with the
other. Their countenance was expressive, with their
thick eyebrows and sparkling eyes ; the hair being
twisted more or less to the back of the head in a
cue, allowed the beautifully arched foiehead to stand
out, but it is often difficult to tell the sex of the young
persons. The women and girls coming to us with milk, but
ter, and fresh tamarinds, were free iu their move
ments, joked and laughed, and sought to sell their
wares as dear as they possibly could, which they
exchanged for salt, beads, red pepper, and strings of
ostrich-egg shells. All of them were distinguished by
a slender shape, a bold carriage, and pleasing form of
countenance ; some, according to my idea, might be
called really beautiful, and they were generally ex
cellently proportioned; they appeared to me like
independent, dark Spartan women. A ferda was slung
over the invisible rahat being used at other times to
cover their heads as a protection against the sun;
the hair was parted, and arranged in tasteful, little
plaits in different directions, or falling down over
the shoulders. Red, and other coloured pieces of
coral, were placed on each side of the head in an
oval form ; in which copper, silver, or gold rings
were entwined, and even the ear-rings with their
pretty elongation of corals and small concbglia
were fastened to the temples by the shining black

SOURCDS OF THE WHITE NILE. 311
tresses of hair falling over the forehead. This head
dress could not fail of making an agreeable impres
sion upon me, when I thought of the shaven and
dishevelled heads of the women in the countries up
the river ; the unseemly custom of wearing rings in
the nostrils was scarcely unpleasing here, from this
supposed ornament being so small. They wore bril
liant cut agates or flints of the desert round their
neck and across the shoulder and breast, — the
younger girls also over the rahat and on the wrists,
which they buy from the Dinkas, as well as corals
of different kinds.
On all sides people were advancing slowly towards
us, and a regular market was soon formed ; but it was
only with a great deal of difficulty that I procured a
bad javelin. The Arabs said that it would be disgrace
ful for them to sell their weapons as they were
continually at war. These Bagharas are also from
Kordofan, of the race of Selim, and of unmixed
blood, for they never marry into any other tribe:
whence the difference between them and our radi
cally ugly crew. From time to time they pay tribute,
but properly speaking, it is a don gratuit. They
told us that they would now cross over to the
Jengahs (they call the Dinkas Jengahs, although
the latter are a different people, and dwell above
the Shilluks), since we (their Mohammedan brothers)
had visited these regions, but asked accidentally
whether so many Shilluks dwelt above, as was re
ported. They also said that there were a few of the
latter nation here, who had retreated at their arrival
on the island, and that there was nothing to fear since

312 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the death of the Sheikh of the Shilluks, Abdurach-
man. They thought themselves already in posses
sion of the whole country. The Bagharas left us
after sunset, but afterwards partly returned to bring
more milk and sheep (for a sheep, one ferda, for
a goat about an okka of salt). Thermometer 18°,
29,° 32.°
10th April. — We sail a little with a south-east wind
in a north direction with easterly declinations till
noon, then it becomes calm and we navigate. Subse
quently, with a north-east wind, almost universally
to N. and even westerly declinations, until we halt
at an island by the shore of the Shilluks. Thermo
meter 22,° 32,° 30.°
ll^A April. — It is a faint south-west wind, but we
are able to sail ; the direction is first N. with easterly
deviations, then westerly, and even N.W. by N. until
we to go N., where an immeasurable course extends
before us. Easterly deviations follow in the after
noon, and the mountain with two peaks seen from
the mast before noon, shews itself in N. The river
gains a majestic breadth for the short track it is
free of islands ; the anterior part of the shores is
low and bordered with grass. Nile buffaloes which
are in incredible numbers here, owing to the grass
on the islands, greeted us twice to-day, and with
such blows that Rassulla Effendi became quite pale.
The tailor-captain is not with us; he has fallen out
with Rassulla about a sheep, and was the more desir
ous for a quarrel, because Suliman Kashef presented
to him a loaf of sugar, and he therefore does not want
the help of Rassulla to eat Helluh. However, we are

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 313
lucky, for the hippopotami have vented their just
anger on the strongest point of our vessel.
" Look ! there is a dead hippopotamus in the
water, and men near it," was the cry subsequently,
but we soon found the difference when we came
closer. It was a boat or raft of ambak just pushed
into the water and on it some men, whilst others
were advancing from the copsewood. Ten Bagharas
with lance and shield following out their old system
of plunder, had wanted to play the freebooter here
among the Dinkas, but were obliged to retreat with
out having accomplished their object. They found
themselves now in the greatest dilemma, for the
water was shallow and they were pursued by the
Dinkas, of whom we counted from twenty- five to
thirty. Suliman Kashef, who sailed a-head of us,
ordered a couple of shots to be fired over the heads
of the Dinkas, whereupon they retreated a little.
The vessel, however, could not take up the Bagha
ras, on account of the shallow water; they shouted
to us to fire once more, but in vain, for the tailor
sat at his handywofk and would give no orders till
Sale discharged one double barrel in the air, which
made the Dinkas stand still and gave the Arabs time
to row off. In a regular pursuit, the former would
undoubtedly have got the worst of it, for they are
no swimmers, were without shields, and like the
Shilluks, do not cast their spears from their hands,
whilst the Bagharas carried shields and javelins.
The Dinkas, however, will not be long in paying
a return visit with similar intentions to the Bagharas,
and will then bear oval and round shields similar
VOL. II. p

314 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
to those of the Shilluks, which they are accustomed
to use in war ; the shields of the Bagharas, on the
contrary, are round at the bottom and obtuse at
the top.
I saw Dinkas frequently on the shore, and nearly
all of them were in the same peculiar position which
we also remarked above, and on the banks of the
entire White River; and which perhaps would denote
a kind of affinity, if the language, form of coun
tenance, and customs did not prove otherwise. To
rest themselves, they place one foot on the knee
whilst standing, and put underneath as a support
their hassaie (club of white wood pointed at the bot
tom) or their spear. A dozen of such one-legged
persons standing together is a comical sight enough.
We halted to-day at five o'clock near the left
shore to wait for the vessels at an island on which
there were monstrous foot-prints of hippopotami.
Close above our landing-place lay the tolerably long
and wooded island of the deceased Sheikh of the
Shilluk islands, Abdurachman (Ab del Rahman),
Wolled el Desh. It is called by the Arabs Telleb,
by the Shilluks, however, Afunje; a name that
might bring to our recollection the Funghs, — and
here it was where, as I have already mentioned, the
Turks in the Expedition of the year 1839, were not
ashamed to open the grave of the Sheikh in order
to convince themselves that the sworn enemy of
themselves and the Bagharas was really dead. It
can easily be inferred what a prejudicial impression
such an act must have left behind in the minds of
the Island- Shilluks. Thermometer 23°, 32°, 30°.

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 315
12th April. — We sail N. with easterly deviations ;
then at noon towards N., close to a mountain group
called by the Dinkas and Bagharas Njemati, and
it is only with considerable difficulty that we can
find a landing-place on the flat shore below the
rocks extending in the river, and when we do so
we encamp at some distance from it.
Thus many islands have retreated at our side
which rejoiced the heart previously with their soft
verdure, their flowers, creepers, and trees, or their
blades of grass shooting from the majestic stream,
whilst the water retreated into the forests of both
the shores, and afforded many an interesting picture.
Now it is no longer so, the vessel goes far lower:
where the wood does not grow on the shore, there
is only a melancholy low country, and the cheerful
ambak-acacias lie dry on the ground bent and dis
membered, throwing out in vain their long shoots
with small leaves and solitary little flowers, on the
soil where some moisture still remains. The hand
of destruction has even fallen on the grass and reeds ;
sun, animals, and fire have consumed it, leaving
merely miserable remains. It is only at times when
the sun is rising, that the landscape presents a more
enlivening aspect.
13^ April. — We shall stop here in the neighbour
hood of the mountain till noon. Notwithstanding the
heat, I had not any rest till I made yesterday a trip
to the mountain, which I always thought must be the
real Defafaungh. I had already seen by the rounded
rocks in the river what kind of stone I might expect
to find. A layer of gravel extends to the north from
p2

316 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
these rocks, and I soon came upon large stones" of
coarse-grained granite, inclined to a reddish colour,
among numerous little marble stones, which I had not
hitherto seen. A species of shrub-acacia covered the
whole side of the path I had taken under the moun
tain where the gravel ceased, of which some bushes
served me as a shady resting-place. Its leaves had
already fallen, its bark was green, and it had short
arcuate thorns. The immense number of seed-husks
is a proof of the quantity of flowers it bore ; they
hung altogether in clusters, and I filled my pockets
full with them. I saw a quantity of guinea-fowls on
a rock running obliquely to the base :¦ — the rocks of
the lower mountains are not perhaps more than a
quarter of an hour from the water. They became
very active when they remarked us, and I ordered,
therefore, my dark, half-naked, huntsman to go first,
for these are more accustomed to such a sight.
I had roused a herd of gazelles standing at my left,
but permitted them to withdraw in peace ; for I had
just found two little hills consisting of stones of in
considerable size, evidently thrown together here.
Judging from the analogy of the stone hills I had
seen in . Kassela, and being fully persuaded that no
violent rains from the mountains above, or flood from
the Nile, could have so placed them, I took them; to
be ancient tombs, and searched for potsherds and
other memorials of buildings that might have stood
here, but in vain. Negro villages and cities disap
pear the moment they are not inhabited, like ignited
bundles of straw, and the ashes do not remain on the
ground. Yet it is not likely that there were many

SOURCES OF THE. WHITE NILE. 317
inhabited places here, for the unprotected man of
nature does not make his residence near the rocky
encampments and cavities of wild beasts, and no
fragments here indicated the contrary. The native
of a civilised country must forget all analogies of his
own land, if he wish to comprehend the meaning,
custom, and possible conduct of a rude nation.
I ascended with ease the nearest fundament of tbe
granite rock. The rain and distilling sun had pro
duced several round holes, which appeared to have
been chiselled by the hand of man, and which may
frequently blow up these firm masses of stone, as if a
mine were sprung underneath, when they happen to
fall on a vein. I found these holes principally in
those places where the rocks presented a flat, hori
zontal superfices, as I had remarked also previously
in the granite mountains of the Land of the Troglo
dytes. My huntsman — whom, however, I could not see —
shot close to me, and a covey of guinea-fowls rose
from behind the next block of stone, and induced me
to mount in pursuit of them. I took off my shoes,
and it was like walking on a red-hot oven, notwith
standing I kept on my stockings. As we ascend to
the summit of this mountain-group, a dreadful de
struction and piling of rocks one over the other is
observed, similar to the scene on the rocks near
Phile. Granite rocks, originally lying above the
level of the waters, are rounded on the top into the
form of pikes, cupolas, and horns. Periodical rains
and a hot sun may split, rend, and break them,
though only as an exception to the general rule, as I

318 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
believe from the analogy of the Alps, the mountains
on the Nile, and in the desert and country of Taka ;
they throw off, therefore, perhaps, their decayed
covering, and burst forth new like an egg from the
shell ; and, although the layers on the side of the
wind, rain, and sun, admit of no regularity of foTm,
yet they seldom display any ghastly splits or gaps.
I would assume, therefore, that these rocks also stood
at one time as crags above or beneath the water, in
which opinion I am supported by the rounded gravel
visible here and there on the layers of rocks. I cannot
certainly determine in what manner the granite rocks,
projecting here into the Nile, and extending into the
river bed as far as the mountains of Kordofan, and con
nected with the distant mountain visible on the other
side, in N. and S.E. from the mountains here, may
prevent at some future times the waters of the lake
from being drawn off.
I was now on the summit, where I found a human
skull, and felt myself very tired, whilst evening was
coming on. In order to descend by another path, I
slid down, disregardless of hurting my posteriora,
laying my gun on my knees, and tying two guinea-
fowls I had shot round my neck ; and it was fortunate
for me I did so, or else the back of my head would have
been stove in. I met one of Suliman Kashef's sol
diers on the lower declivity, who pointed out to me
wild buffaloes and elephants at a distance, close to
whom he had been. We had seen already a very
large quantity of elephants' dung. I had lost my
huntsman in the rocks: he brought fowls also, but
trembled dreadfully, because, just as he was aiming at

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 319
the herds, a lion had presented himself at a short dis
tance. The presence of lions was subsequently
doubted ; but this morning my two other servants took
quite a young lion in their hands, to bring him to me ;
but they thought it more advisable afterwards to let
him bask on in the sun. They, as well as several others,
remarked, also wild buffaloes and boars (Jaluff ) in the
neighbourhood ; and they brought me, as a proof of
the former animals being present here, a horn quite
fresh, the owner of which, had become the prey of
lions; for the marafill (the spotted hyaena), whose cal
careous dung is visible in all parts of this region,
never attacks buffaloes.
I repaired now to the foot of the next mountain-
group, and was soon convinced that it was of the same
species of stone ; however, to be quite sure, I had
peices or specimens of stone brought me from the
highest peak, and my servants have confirmed me in
my opinion, that there are only two mountains, al
though Arnaud asserts that he has seen sixteen,
without putting on magnifying glasses. Some of
these specimens consist of pink feldspar, white albin,
grey quartz, and black mica ; others of dark red
feldspar, but without albin, with white quartz and
black mica.
I stumbled upon Suliman Kashef on my way
back, -who had collected his halberdiers around him,
and was enthroned on a rock where he could be seen
at a distance. He set out this afternoon to make
observations, which he might have done yesterday
evening. The heat is very great, and I bathe for
the first time since a long while, having left it off

320 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
from fear of catching fever. The Frenchmen think
that they shew great courage by going into the water;
but it is always full of men the whole day long, and
no accident has happened from the crocodiles. My
men had not shot any of the gazelles that appeared
near the rocks, to take a hasty draught; the Ba
gharas, however, paid us a visit, and brought sheep ;
they thought that we were come to make war in their
favour, yet no Dinkas dwell near here, but more up
the river. Thermometer 2730° ; 32*31°.
lAth April.— This morning we proceed at last with
a favourable south-east wind to north, with easterly
deviations ; but we soon came to a flat in the Nile,
formed by a granite shelf partly visible, which crosses
the river. It is called Gisser — the same as wall or
dam, analogous to Tschellal— and was once perhaps
really a dam and breast-work, of which only the
foundations remain. Who can estimate its future
form, and its present ramifications! We scrape along
it a little, but then all went right, and we passed in
the afternoon, N. by W., the very dangerous Macha-
da — el ans, and Machada Abu Seid mentioned in the
ascent, where there was an eternal grating of the
vessels, as if over a gravelly bank : first we, then the
others stuck fast, and the sailors had very troublesome
work. We halted at the left shore, where an incredi
ble number of monkeys were sitting on the trees. I
took my gun, and in searching through the forest,
remarked a she-monkey, among numerous others, the
young one sitting on the lower branches. As soon as
she perceived us, she sprang quickly to her young, took
it under her arm, and set herself on the highest bough

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 321
of the tree. Who could shoot at the mother for the
sake of getting the young? There was another mon
key-like animal there which can only be taken at
night ; I forget the name of it.
An arm of the Nile, the ends of which are now
closed, appeared to be a favourite pond of the
gazelles, though not one of them fell to our lot.
The inundation rises through the entire forest, the
earth is cracked far and wide, and not a spike of grass
is to be seen under the sunt, of which the forest of the
Shilluks consists, with few exceptions, But there
lay a number of broken off branches and dead trees,
that had not attained their proper age, because, when
there is too much water, the trees stand too thickly,
and their tops get lashed together, and these sunts,
especially, spreading from top to bottom with short
boughs, leave no draught, so that the centre of them
is deprived of the necessary air. We remark, how
ever, where the forest is sufficiently thin, a number of
trees thrown down and withered, especially where the
shores lie lower, and where, therefore, the ground can
be scarcely dry at any time of the year. This may
proceed perhaps from wind, for though the latter ia
not so violent as to tear up trees from the root, like
our northern storms, yet the tender nourishing fibres
are injured or torn off by the continual motion of the
trees, which must be followed by a stretching and
straining of the roots. The tree stands, pines away,
and falls, as we have remarked previously in the
country of Taka.
Suliman Kashef related,, with an important air,
that he shot quite close to a large hippopotamus seve-

322 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
ral times yesterday evening, without the beast moving,
until, at last, it slowly walked into the river. This
Nile buffalo was said to be a Scheitan, and Selim
Capitan believed the very same thing. I threw in a
hint that Mohammed Ali might have assumed this
form, in order to see what good the expedition was
doing — whereupon there was altum silentium ! Ther
mometer, 22° 32° to 33°.
15th April. — Between N. and N.W. The nearest
shores are low, and even where the forest extends to
them, they are but slightly elevated, and the over
thrown trees present a melancholy appearance here
instead of the cheerful underwood. The old shores
of the river are visible right and left through the
downs of the forest, and are really high shores, with
out any deception, for the vessel goes considerably
lower during our present return voyage, and no illu
sion takes place, as is the case with the slight ele
vation in the extensive plain, which always appears to
the eye to be ascending. We navigate on the broad
stream as if in the forest, woody islands on the right,
the same on the left, but sunt, always sunt, with its
melancholy foliage, — my heart longs for beeches and
oaks and their shady halls ! It is only on the shore
where winds and water take effect above and below,
that we see trees completely uprooted. The high
water has no power towards the interior of the shore,
bnt another evil spirit, the Habub (storm), throws
down and scatters boughs and trees.
The north-west wind is against us; we go therefore
over N. easterly to N.E. These windings depend
principally on how we sail round the islands. The

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 323
main direction of the stream is, and remains from the
present, N., with slight deviations to E. and W. The
shores encompassing the long island-sound, are gene
rally invisible ; an accurate map, therefore, could be
only drawn up by a longer stay here.
In the afternoon we halt for a moment at the right
shore, and near the large island of Aba, and hear from
the Hassanies and people of El Aes that a large hip
popotamus had been struck by three harpoons close
at hand. We navigate, therefore, to the left, at the
island of El Gamuss, which has its name partly from
the number of Nile buffaloes taking up their abode in
their neighbourhood ; and we see, at its head, the
mighty snorting beast half out of water; but he soon,
however, drew back, and swam into the Nile arm, be
tween the island and the left shore. The sandal was
towed near him, and after the siirtuk had twice upset,
yet without confounding the experienced swimmers,
and the beast had tried in vain to escape, it occurred
to our men, as the hippopotamus was obliged from
want of breath to come up constantly to the surface, to
fasten the towing-rope to the three harpoons, and thus
to drag him ashore like a vessel. Before, however,
they got so far, the beast collected his last strength,
and shortly before arriving at the shore, sprung up
with such force that several of the heroes jumped back.
I thought that I should see a national hunt, and the
hippopotamus killed with the spear ; but the Turks did
not wait for him to gain terra firma, but shot at him
where he was, half out of water, and certainly, had
he landed, he might have trod several men under his
feet, and torn them with his respectable tusks.

334 .EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
Nine shots were fired one after the other, Suliman
Kashef's was the last, and it hit the animal behind
the ear ; the blood spouted up, and the monster fell,
slain by man's art, not by his courage. We had him
dragged by the tow-rope of the sandal to our landing-
place, and I then found that the balls had pierced
his neck and back, which might well happen, when
we consider that the distance was only fifteen paces
and that the beast had a fat hide, with no other
shield than the yielding rumples, extending cross-
ways over the back. The inside of the holes per
forated by the bullets, felt like the body of a fat hog.
The monster might be even compared in his clumsy
form to a small elephant, and both correspond just as
little as the crocodile, to our usual ideas of beauty in
animals, which are generally reduced to the standard
of the noble horse. The skin of the hippopotamus
displays a dirty pink hue, from the back to the
belly, and the dark green of the upper part of the
body runs into this other colour. The skin, in dry
ing, changes to a dark grey.
The soil of the island, excellent in other respects,
is torn up by the inundation, ascending several feet
over it ; but many trees are lying withered and parched
up on the ground. I took a specimen of the seeds of a
dwarf acacia, with barbs : I observed also guinea-
fowls and monkeys : the last are said to swim.
Sabatier, who compares the shores of the Nile here
to those ofthe Mississippi, only that on the latter the
trees are higher, is going to accompany me, in
Thibaut's bark to the Aes, whilst M. Arnaud decides
upon preparing to-morrow the skin of the hippo-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 325
potamus, which he has bought for two hundred and
fifty piasters.
16*/t April. — Thibaut has started without us —
asleep, as he afterwards said. We remain under
Arnaud's jurisdiction till the afternoon, then go
libahn against the north wind, and halt late in the
evening, at the right shore. Thermometer 24°, 34°,
to 35°.
17th April. — The wind is against us in our course ;
forest, islands, downs, mostly with a gentle ascent
and shallows, alternate with my impatience, until
at last we reach El Aes in the afternoon.
El Aes, lying on a sandy down, which ascends and
descends with intermission, is said to be a new place,
and is called after a former sheikh of this name.
The present sheikh is denominated Achmet, and the
people appear to be a mixed breed. They do not
wish to have much acquaintance with the Turks,
although they are subject to taxation, which a soldier
collects there as Kaimakan. Thermometer, noon,
33°. 18th April. — Long before daybreak we proceeded
on our voyage, without any oxen having been brought
to us. At first we passed by several islands, and then
left the island of Gubescha at our right ; several
Sagien fallen to ruin, and some chains of buckets
being visible on the left shore. - The village of
Hedjasi lies in the neighbourhood, but not a person
was to be seen, although we remained there the after
noon ; even onions were not to be got. Suliman
Kashef thinks that he is not much beloved here,
which I can very readily believe. Thousands of

326 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
camels were being led to water on the left, shore, by
the Kabbabish Arabs who come from the interior,
and are said to possess more of these animals than all
the other Arabs put together. This occurs every
eight or ten days, and the tribe take back with them
what water they need. Suliman Kashef wanted to
make friends with them, because he saw that they
had some cows and goats ; but they trotted off as if a
storm were coming on, keeping themselves in troops
like an army, whilst they are said to have shouted
"AbuDaoud!" The colony of Hedjasi lies in a good situation,
and might become a granary for Kordofan. The soil
is somewhat light; the ground formerly ascended*
which declination might have been gradually lost,
when the terraces were in the act of formation; at
present it is all fallen away.
I9tk April. — After we had navigated the whole
night, we found ourselves this morning in the country
called Tura, from whence various roads lead to Kor
dofan. The flat shores are sandy, and rise, having a
bad and meagre growth of trees. On the right and
left are some hills of downs, on which we find reddish
pieces of granite, such as I met with near the Sagien.
Whence this poverty of humus, for Nature ought to be
more fertilizing, as she washes away sand from the,
ground first, and then brings the lighter humus just
as we see at the Delta? We saw nothing of the
mountain group of Araskoll, for the vessels go now
too low. Suliman Kashef continues his voyage,
whilst Selim Capitan and Arnaud have landed on
the left shore, the latter to seek for gold jn the

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 327
Araskoll. The shores continue in sandy downs,
especially on the right side, but an immeasurable
level plain extends on the left, of which we have an
extensive view, by reason of the shores being scarcely
elevated above the water. This character of the
country passes also subsequently to the right side.
The entirely flat margin of the broader part of the
stream, which we sail through with a favourable east
wind, following Suliman Kashef, is not pure sand ;
yet we observe upon it thin tracts of underwood
standing back a little, and dwarf mimosas.
This part is, as it were, the mouth of the river, and
formed, in ancient times, a shallow lake by the con
flux of the White and Blue streams, as the downs on
the right prove, which are in connection with those
at Khartum, and formed the very same embankment ;
for the more violent pressure of the Blue river clearly
opposes the broad stream of the White one, as we
see plainly near the island of Tuti, and perhaps only
subsequently broke through the angle of land at the
right side of this island ; if it made previously, as the
Arabs believe, a bend from the city of Soba to the
west into the White river, and thus surrounded, with
the latter, the desert rocks of Omdurman lying at the
side. An investigation, however, would be necessary
to ascertain this point. The Downs continue again
afterwards at the right shore, alternating even with
downs of earth.
If a shallow lake of such dimensions existed here
at one time, the north wind drove its waves and bil
lows to this side, and piled up these irregular heights,
which are not arranged in a row like a chain, but

328 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
sometimes advance, sometimes retreat. The lake
withdrew, and the river levelled, took and gave, so
that in many places long tracts of continuous sandy
shores existed, having, however, a fertile substratum,
because otherwise there could not be the vegetation
that there is. This subjacent soil is also frequently
visible as humus or morass, and under it an adhesive
blue clay is found, as I ascertain plainly by the sailors'
poles, which are continually being pushed into the
deep. Thermometer 22° 29° to 30° 28°.
20th April. — We halted yesterday at sunset, near
the mandjeras of Khurdshid Basha on the right
shore. These docks (there is a similar one on the
blue river at Kamlin) are still used, and two new
ships have just been built, whilst ten barks are in
dock for repairs. The workmen live in the village
immediately behind the high shore of the downs, and
I saw, in my excursion there, several fowls walking
cheerfully with a number of turtle-doves in the shade
of the sunt trees, although the people would not sell
me a fowl. There is also a corn magazine here, with
overseers and soldiers.
The neighbouring sheikh and Arabs came to kiss
Suliman Kashef's hand: he never once looked at
them, but went on speaking with the other Turks.
Such conduct, with many other things of the same
kind, is practised deliberately; although it may seem
to the inexperienced only to arise from forgetful
ness. In short, the Turks do everything to make
themselves disliked. It is most advisable for a per
son who is not dependent ou them, to treat them with
a certain kind of indifference, to seat himself immedi-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 329
ately close to them, stretch his legs here and there
in all possible ways, and ask for a pipe, without wait
ing for this favour from the swaggering fools; other
wise the Jaur or Kaffr will always be neglected and
despised by the Musselmen.
I examined this morning the nature of the downs,
and found that they are rather deposited earthen walls
or dikes, fruitful humus strongly impregnated with
shingle or rubbish, (dissolved particles of stone) and
sand. A covering of sand overlays these hills of
earth, being thick, and accumulated by water and
wind towards that part of the river-side which is more
broken and washed away. The hills lose themselves
towards the land side, gently descending in a wide
plain (galla) covered with scanty mimosas, which still
remain tolerably elevated above the river and the left
shore. We observe here far beyond the lower trees,
a second dam of downs, which may surpass the former
one in height, and perhaps is the old border of the
right side of the Nile.
Now, when I see from these heights of downs, which
are sufficiently elevated to enable me to look over a
low surface of earth, the left shore lying level with
the water-line itself, I am no longer surprised at not
having found any limits for the border, of the Nile, on
our ascent. But it is exactly on this account that I
take it to be impossible, with the present state of the
Nile, that those morass hills (for the constituent
parts are and remain nothing else but morass, mixed
and rolled on by other powers than the present), could
be formed, even at the highest water-mark, under pre
sent circumstances. Yet the latter have been always

330 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
the same since the land became dry, and the left shore
was still lower than it is at present. But now. the
river has full play, and it cannot therefore rise high,
as the appearance of the hills of earth teach us them
selves. If there lay here, however, a shallow lake,
through which the current of the Nile flowed, then
morass-hills might have been formed to the height of
the highest water-mark. And this is what I believe.
The Downs still continue for a good tract, and are
lost imperceptibly, again to emerge under the very
same appearance.
Arnaud wants to have the hippopotamus-skin
dressed again ; it is extended on the sand, but it dif
fuses a very bad smell, and he retains therefore only
its head. We must remain here till noon for the sake
of this important business, and because Arnaud will
make observations. Then a somewhat favourable but
faint wind gets up : we navigate henceforth almost
N. and N.W. In the afternoon the piles of earth,
thrown up by the waters of the lake, are visible on
the right side of the Nile, similar to those I have
seen in the lake-caldron of Taka.
At dusk reefs are seen in the river : they appear to
me to be limestones, and extend from the granite
bank of Syene across the river from E. to W. At
one time they might have carried on their backs beau
tiful islands, as the granite reefs also previously seen,
which took the road of the lake, and perhaps settled
themselves again at the Delta. We see that the
White River finds opposition also here, and has found
still more, from which its slow current is confined by
itself. We navigate till late at night as far as Mount

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 331
Mussa or Brane, from which I procure specimens of
stones of the chert species, and remain there. Ther
mometer, 22°, 30° to 33°, 21°.
21st April. — We come again before noon to a reef
of rocks running through the river, although the
passage remains wide and broad enough: — then to
sluices. The favourable wind does not last long to
day ; but the men row diligently, for every one is
hoping to see something dear to him again, like my
self, who am impatient and ardently longing for my
beloved brother. Our course goes mostly between
N. and N.N.E., and in the evening, we land near the
trees of Moha Bey, where the last downs appear,
whilst the shore extending flat on the left, supports
its old character. I am thinking of making an ex
cursion afterwards from Khartum, because by the
direction of the downs I hope to be able to deter
mine something with respect to the shallow lake of
the city.
22nd April— Thibaut wanted to go yesterday
evening to Khartum, to take the first intelligence of
our return, but that was not allowed. I am obliged
also to remain, because I have fallen among robbers,
and have eyes like Argus. The intelligence just
arrives that Soliman Effendi is dead. I am sorry for
his family, as I was for that of Vaissiere, intelli
gence of whose death was brought to us seven days
ago, by an Arabian officer. Soliman Effendi is said,
as I hear now, to have poisoned the young lions I
possessed : but let him rest in peace ! The society of
Europeans must and will now take another and better
form.

332 EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE
A number of people came from Khartum to pay
their respects to our little Basha, Suliman Kashef,
who is lying under the trees on the extended carpet. I
am tired, and almost worn out, for I have not slept
the whole night, because I am expecting every
instant to see my brother, and have been looking,
since sunrise, in the direction of the spires of
Khartum. Thermometer 22° at sunrise.
At first we navigate N. by E., then N.N.E. Oh,
for the happy meeting ! a former servant of ours has
just come to his brother, Fadl, and gives me good,
but not sufficient, intelligence. We wind north, near
Omdurman, shortly before the mouth of the White
river, where an arm of the Nile runs round the little
island on the left, and rocks in the water on the right
lie opposite to those at the right shore. Here, there
fore, the White stream had to break the last dam, and
its current was doubtless under the small chain of
downs of Omdurman. At last we bear up near the
rocks from whence the White river, which was un
questionably pressed through them and has but a
slight breadth here, takes the direction to north for
this short tract. The other vessels are already sail
ing up the Blue river, and we navigate very slowly
behind with our heavy vessel, the wind being con
trary. The thunder of cannon rolled down from the ves
sels — joy and pleasure. I wished to describe our re
turn, but I did not see my brother. Black thoughts
suddenly shook me as if a fit of ague had attacked
me. When I saw even the window-shutters of our
divan closed, where he might wait for me so comfort-

SOURCES OF THE WHITE NILE. 333
ably in the shade, I trembled violently, and my knees
tottered so that they laid me on the bed. I soon,
however, got up, and sat before the cabin ; and just at
the moment when our vessel touched the land, some
one pointed him out standing on the shore. I jumped
ashore from the deck, and fell down : my brother
raised me up. Eleven days after this happy meeting
he died in my arms, completely broken by the effects
of the climate.

APPENDIX.

Much has been written, advised, and spoken, concerning
the important question of the Geographical position of the
sources of the White Nile, since this voyage of mine ; many
ridiculous as well as arrogant conjectures, and bold assertions,
have been laid before the learned world, without any loss of
time, respecting this historical subject. Among the pre
tenders to the discovery of the sources, Antoine D'Abbadie
stands out the boldest of the bold. ( Vide his letters from
Omokullu in Ethiopia, 5th, 6th, and 7th Aug., 1 847, in
the Athenseum, Nos. mxli. and mxlii. and those to Jomard
and Arago, in Paris, in the " Journal des Debats," 5th Oct.,
and in the " Comptes rendus Hebdomadaires des seances de
l'Academie," 4th Oct. 1847, No. xiv., T.xxv. p. 485—487).
The principal thing of importance for a traveller who starts
on expeditions of this kind, is to see with his own eyes, and
to verify by personal inspection or mental contemplation
what he hears from the Natives ; for the solitary traveller
may have everything related to him that he wishes, and, in
fact, seeks to obtain. There are no European companions,
and still less eye-witnesses of the soil of happy Ethiopia, to
tax him with false statements ; and how easy is it to find
natives who have no conception of the great importance of
their expressions, and are ready, without any qualm of con
science, to assent to the preconceived notions of the tra
veller, when they think by that means to please him !
M. Antoine D'Abbadie, even previously, had discovered

336 APPENDIX.
the sources of the White Nile, — as he wrote in a letter,
dated 17th October, 1844, from Adoa (Adwa), in Habesh,
addressed to us in Kahira. (Preussiche Zeitung, 21st Fe
bruary, 1845, and others.) That glorious fountain-head was
said to lie then in the land of Gmura, or Gamru, near the
mountains of Bochi, or Dochi. The latitude and longitude of
it were not given. He does not seem to have planted the
drapeau tricolore there, any more than my French companions
did at the final point of our expedition ; because, had they
done so, both the Turks and myself would have set up our
national standard. For my part I did not let the opportu
nity slip of denying the claims of D'Abbadie to raise a shout
of victory at having solved the question ofthe sources of the
Nile, and to contradict his absurd etymology of the Moun
tains of the Moon, upon which the whole discovery was said
to be based. (Monthly Report of the Geographical Society
in'Berlin, 7th Annual Vol., p. 20.) He thought that the
name of " Gmura," or " Gamru," being analogous in sound
to that of the Arabic language, had induced the Arabian
Geographers to adopt this word, and to form it into the pre
sent Kamar (Moon). Mr. Ayrton, to whom I will after
wards advert, takes the opposite side, and is of opmion that
the former-denomination is a corruption of the Arabic word
"Kamar." This Nile source of 1844 appears, however, to have been
dried up again, or discarded by M. D'Abbadie, for he sud
denly transplanted the true sources of the White Stream
into another country.; the forest of Babia, between Inarya
(Enarea,) and Jumma Kaka (Djimma Kaka) ; and, to be
sure, — between 79 49' N. Lat., and 34° 48' E. Long., from
Paris. (See his reports and letters of 1847).
I must, however, entirely controvert this second discovery,.,
notwithstanding it is declared in the most positive manner.
Error, indeed, is natural to man, but truth must assert its

APPENDIX. 337
claims ; besides, I do not deny that M. Antoine D'Abbadie
would have liked to have made such a discovery, or to be
come an historical discoverer. Far be it from me, who know
what travelling is in Africa, — who suffered the tortures of its
deserts and its scorching heat, and struggled several times
with fever and death, to consider the Tricolour which he
fastened to the trees of the Babia forest as a vane or wea
thercock. No : I greet it rather with friendly interest as a
cheerful sign to science and a way-mark to geographical pro
gress, and as an agreeable surprise to succeeding travellers.
Now D'Abbadie makes his source of the Nile bubble up
about the eighth degree of north latitude ; whereas, I have
navigated up the river with this Expedition, which has ad
vanced further than any other, as far as the fourth degree
north latitude, where, as already mentioned, the sources of
the Nile were expressly pointed out to us as lying still
farther to the South. It appears to me, therefore, a despe- "
rate and daring attempt, on the part of our discoverer, to
claim for himself " primo occupanti," that water which he
saw, or even waded through, as being a priori, the real and
true source of the White Stream. The pretensions to prio
rity of discovery, — claims that were to be kept up on any
terms, — may perhaps be what he has fixed his,eyes upon, and
which he has pursued too eagerly, without any forbearance, as
is plainly perceived by his passionate letter to Mr. Ayrton,
against Dr. Beke, who inclined to the opinion expressed by
me concerning the source. The degree of latitude stated by
him, in complete opposition to the direction of all the stream
territory we visited, is no stumbling-block to him any more
than the diametrically opposite opinion of the natives of
Bari. Antoine D'Abbadie specifies three points which appear to
him to decide the only true source of every river ; it is there
fore surprising that theirs* of these rules laid down by him,
VOL. II. Q

338 APPENDIX.
viz. to determine the course of a river by the opinion of the
people, is exactly inapplicable to the White Nile ; for that is
completely in opposition to his favourite idea. He tells us
expressly that the aborigines dwelling at the sources of his
White Nile, make these very same sources flow collectively
into the Abbay (Blue Nile). It required, therefore, more
than courage to throw aside the popular opinion, and to give
a contrary direction to the sources, without having convinced
himself personally of the fact, by a corresponding examina
tion of these supposed tributaries. This statement of the
people of Damot ought to be more valued and credited, be
cause, according to him, they derived their origin from Gojam
(Godjam), and Bagemidr ; therefore from a northern country
on the Abbay.
A nation connected directly with another by water-roads,
as must be the case between the inhabitants of Kafa, Enarea,
and Bari, according to the hypothetical river of D'Abbadie,
ought to have domestic animals, and customs in common, if
only partly so, being under an exactly similar climatic situa
tion. Enarea and Kafa have coffee, horses, and asses ; but
these are entirely unknown in Bari, as I stated in the year
1844 (Allgemeine Preussiche Zeitung, 24th July, 1844).
Sheep, poultry, and leather are said by D'Abbadie not to be
in Kafa ; whereas we have found them in Bari. He relates
that dollars are very well known in Kafa; and that the mer
chants are very eager after them ; but in Bari money is not
known, as we convinced ourselves by enquiry. From this
argument, then, the sources of D'Abbadie and the pretended
countries they flow through are not connected with Bari.
Besides, the names of these countries were never mentioned
to us. That the mountain-land, however, lying to the east
of Berri, in the neighbourhood of which the water-shed might
be found, is a principal emporium for these regions, and that
they are connected with the rivers discharging themselves

APPENDIX. 339
into the Indian Ocean, follows from the facts previously spe
cified, and even from the indications of the things found
there. A slave-market does not seem, however, to exist;
and, in order to attest this fact, commercial reports alone
could prove whether copper also was brought from the inte
rior of Africa. We may boldly affirm, without any self-
persuasion, that the southerly direction of the stream can
be determined, within a few degrees, from the island of
Tshanker, by the plastic formation of the mountainous
region, through the cleft valleys of which the true White
Nile breaks.
The eye may, as it were, follow what we hear from the
natives, who only point towards the south, and assert that
they do not know of any water flowing towards E., where
they are, however, in commercial relation with the country of
Berri, ten days' journey off; but they only speak of springs
found there, which were translated to us by the Arabic
word, " Birr." We were given to understand, also, that
this land, so rich in copper, was mountainous ; from which
I conjectured that there might be brooks there, especially at
the rainy season, but that not one of them could stand even
a remote comparison with their Tubirih (White Stream at
Bari). »
So, also, the beautiful fine-grained salt, brought from thence
to Bari, is not the rock-salt of the desert, but is extracted
from the brackish water and slime, according to the form of
the vessels in which it has been boiled. I have seen, however,
in the great tract of country between the lower Atbara and
the Red Sea, that a land subject to tropical rains — although,
as in Africa, without rivers and streams — can provide, even
in the dry season, men and animals with water from its
earthly womb — that is, from the torrents and water-tanks.
The Anthropophagi, also living on the mountain-chain by
Logoja, in the neighbourhood of Bari, have not any running

340 APPENDIX.
water; but they take it from the ground: namely, from
natural cisterns or cavities.
We had all believed that the White Stream must come
from the East ; therefore our enquiries about that side were
more careful : but not all our signs towards the East could
bring back the Natives from the South, the true source of
the Stream. I remember still quite well that I wrote this
down immediately, and laid it before the Geographical, So
ciety, in Berlin, some years before there was any talk of the
various sources described by D'Abbadie. Moreover, it seems
to follow from the whole configuration of the line of moun
tains, that Nature has fixed here a water-shed to the East as
well as to the West ; for the mountain chains of Logoja
and Kugelu stretch from East and West to South, probably
as branches of a mighty mountain- stock under the Equator,
from which the streams of the Bach'r-el-Abiad issue.
Although M. d' Arnaud, my companion during the voyage
on the White Stream, says that the latter is navigable for a
"cinquante de milles" from the island of Tshanker, and
arbitrarily makes the maim arm of the smaller rivulet ofthe
Nile spring from the east ; yet this is either only the remnant
of our old affection for the easterly descent of the river ; or it
may be the result of a want of truthfulness. I challenge
Thibaut and Sabatier, his own countrymen, to come forward
and state whether there was ever any talk about such a main-
arm as he describes. According to Lakono, who had been there,
and called the land wherein the source lies by the name of
Anjan, the water in the four brooks, by the conflux of which
the White Nile is formed, reached only up to the ankles.
This land, however, lay to the south, as my travelling com
panions must remember, and which Arnaud also allows, as I
will afterwards prove.
Now if we would follow for at least 5° towards the north
such a Nile brook, from this county of Anjan to the Forest of

APPENDIX. 341
Bahia, in order to be extraordinarily complaisant to M.
d'Abbadie, who might rely upon Arnaud, we should not find,
even with a microscope, the silver threads of his sources.
Now if I wished to discard the opinion of the people of
Bari, as being contrary to my conviction, like d'Abbadie has
done with respect to the views of the natives, because they
were opposite to his theory, I would not say anything of the
rashness of the "Knight of the Source," nor envy him the
fame which is due to him as an indefatigable traveller, and
the croix dhonneur awarded to him for this presumed disco
very ; that is, supposing that the stream we had before us on
the island of Tshanker wound to the east from the south under
the rocks of Lugi and Kalleri (evidently harbingers of a high
mountainous region), and then flowed humbly under the
mountain -chain of Logoja, to seek its origin from the fourth
to about the eighth degree of north latitude. The river,
however, does not accommodate itself to this course, but steps
forth boldly from its rocky gates, as a mountain-stream.
The ascending ground, and the rocks scattered in the river
above the island, shew that the fall must increase consider
ably in the mountainous region — as even the rocky wall of
Kalleri forms a vast waterfall at the rainy season — which
might make us conclude that there is a lake lying high, in
which an extensive mountain plateau pours its waters, or
perhaps even serves as a periodical channel far above the
Nile. The greater gradation of the river-bed, necessarily
following its entrance into the rocky territory, must at last
make the Forest of Babia an enormous height, in a progres-v
sive ratio ; and the latter, though at a distance of four to five
degrees, must be connected with mountain-ridges, to lead the
stream into a high longitudinal valley lying to the south, as
if into an aqueduct, so that it may not pour into the vast
basin to the west, to which the Sobat also is hastening.
Without entering point by point into Antoine d'Abbadie's

342 APPENDIX.
accounts, which are not always clear, and the hypothesis of
his defenders, I must assume that he abode not only in
Inarya, the field of his study on the sources, but also in
Kafa and Bonga, for he expressly says so. I can readily
believe also, that the complication of rivers in the Forest of
Babia cost him considerable pains to find out the true source
ofthe White Nile, against the general and prevailing opinion
there ; likewise, that he tried to discover, by means of verbal
expressions, the relative quantity of water of the five tribu
taries, because otherwise he must have resided there three or
four years, &c.
Now if it be true that the people of Damot have emi
grated from Gojam, the Abbay must be well known to them,
because Gros-Damot lies between water, which partly encom
passes Gojam, the Gojab, and the Didesa. I do not alto
gether understand how he can reject the testimony of the
people of Damot, on the futile ground that they descended
from Gojam. If this nation now extends up to the summit
of the sources, so must they also know from their primeval
acquaintance with the Abbay, whether their waters pour into
the Abbay or not. Though the exploration of the mouth of
the Niger has also cost much labour and time ; and though
Dutch simplicity or craft still makes the Rhine flow into the
Waal, yet it is more natural for a nation dwelling on a river
to know in what direction it flows, than to be able to give
the direction of the curves and windings of its tributaries to
wards the sources. And is it likely, that a people whom he
calls aborigines, and who must therefore be acquainted with
their home, should not know whether the river runs towards
the south or to. the north, in a stream territory with which
they are well acquainted ?
The second decision of D'Abbadie, that the larger mass of
water decides a source or a tributary, overthrows entirely
his third and most essential one, viz. that one ought to look

APPENDIX. 343
at the direction ofthe river; because, in truth, he has neither
followed the latter as far as the White Nile, nor to the Sobat,
whose sources appear to him a mere bagatelle. It almost
seems as if he chivalrously cut asunder the Gordian knot of
that entanglement of rivers during his hermitage in Iaka,
and has tried to force on us a vague hypothesis as being the
real matter of fact.
There is a strange controversy in the relation of his journey
of discovery, which ought to be sifted closely. He had long
passed over the mountain-chain of Nare, when he took up
his abode in the Forest of Babia, having arrived, as he ex
pressly declares, from the basin of the Abbay (Blue Nile)
into that of the White Nile ; and yet he had, on his right,
the sources of the Didesa, a tributary of the Blue Nile. Ac
cording to this statement, he has never issued from the com
bination of streams of the Blue Nile, or he has come to a point
to which rivers flow, as in Paradise, from all four corners of
the world. All this is not -exactly adapted to make us believe
that the river Gojab, or Uma (Omo), which springs from
those sources, is identical with the White Nile.
Mr. Charles Johnston has conceived the strange belief that
he participates in the views of D'Abbadie ; but the good man
.makes his Gibbee (Durr, Omo) the Gibe and Gojam of
D'Abbadie, receive at last the waters of the Abi (Abbay),
in the environs of Fazogl ; consequently he has claims with
D'Abbadie to the discovery of the main source of the Blue
Nile. Mr. Ayrton also (in the Athenaeum, No. mlxi.), steps into
the lists for M. D'Abbadie. Notwithstanding his learned
attempt to fix etymologically the situation of the source-
territory of the Nile by a fortuitous coincidence of words
according to a previous plan of D'Abbadie, I cannot assent to
his views.
Ifthe inhabitants of the coast of the Red Sea first navi-

344 APPENDIX.
gated this Stream, as naturally would be the case, and the
Sabseans, from Arabia, conquered Habesh in the time of
Solomon, the latter colony might still have remained their
principal commercial settlement on the coast, and even have
been planted long before their immigrations from Asia. The
dialect of the Ethiopians, which we still recognise to belong
to the Semitic languages, announces that there was a com
munication with these maritime countries before the period
of history : yet, commerce on the coast of Habesh might
perhaps only have remained a coasting-trade ; for history
hands down to posterity merely the fact, that the Arabs
made journeys to China, and that the Nabathseans brought
Indian goods and asphalt on their camels to the Egyptian
market at the time of Alexander the Great, — the latter ar
ticle being fished up from the Red Sea. It is improbable
that the Sabseans, who were very well known under the suc
cessors of Alexander, extended into the Ethiopian highlands
their colonies in Habesh, where even now the Arabic lan
guage only prevails on parts of the coast, in commercial inter
course. It is very unlikely, also, that they have given the
name of " Mountains of the Moon" to a region ; because
such a change of a local name, which was certainly imposed
upon that country beforehand, pre-supposes a regular Sa-
bsean colony on the spot, whose idiom might perhaps be
discovered in a different way than by the solitary word
*' Gamaro," or " Gimiro ; " for we might derive this as well
from " Gimri," or " Gumri," (turtle-doves), as I have heard
also somewhere in the Desert the name of " Gebel Gimri."
It seems to me, therefore, that it is rather too daring to wish
to identify this expression, — according to Abbadie, " Gamru,"
or * Gmura,'' with the Arabic « Kamar." But if these
parts, so remarkable on account of the sources of the Nile,
had been known in the ancient times, the Egyptian priests
and Herodotus, or most certainly the later Greeks, would
have learned something of them.

APPENDIX. 34.5
The argument that the illustrious Claudius Ptolemy de
rived his iteXjjvoc opog from the Arabs, appears to me com
pletely untenable. There is no record existing beyond the
time of this geographer that I know of, which mentions
" Gebl Kamar; " if there were, it would be convincing. There
can be no doubt that Ptolemy acquired his information from
Egyptian elephant-hunters, otherwise he would not have
transferred the origin of the sources to the neighbourhood of
the Equator. These elephant-hunts were fitted out like
military expeditions by the kings of Egypt, and penetrated,
according to Pliny, far into the Ethiopian provinces, beyond
the Lybian deserts.
I cannot either participate in the views of Mr. Ayrton re
specting the points of culmination ofthe Ethiopian highlands,
but I assume that there are three independent mountain-
chains in the interior of Africa : — the eastern one in Habesh,
the western in Darfur, and the southern being the Mountains
of the Moon, in Anjan, near the equator ; which place I have
mentioned several times in this discourse. These form also
partly the watersheds, as I will explain more clearly. I also
will allow myself here a play upon words. According to
D'Abbadie, the moon is called in Kafa "Agane" and " Agina,"
and the name of my moon-country is " Anjan." What more
therefore do my African etymologists require? The two
countries cannot lie very far asunder, and the analogy of then-
languages is certainly possible, without even consulting Mez-
zofanti, but the pronunciation is always difficult to reach.
" Angan," however, is not the word for moon in Bari. If we
wish to retain the expression of " Mountains of the Moon,"
we must go back to a primitive word of the language of the
place, as Dr. Beke thinks with regard to his " Mono Moezi."
* Poor Cardinal MezzOfonti, " the monster of languages," as Byron
called him, died wliile this translation was being made, 16th March, 1849.
(Trans.)

346 APPENDIX.
Once more I must return to Freind Arnaud, and his in
sipid account, for we could not expect anything else from
him, as he did not keep any descriptive diary wherein he could
note down his dreams about Lakono' s body-guard of women,
and things ofthe same kind ; but he has filled up his journal
with lion and elephant hunts, and other fabulous circum
stances, like a pictorial newspaper. He says ( Vide Bulletin
de la Societe de Geographie deuxieme s6rie, t. xviii. p/376)
that the Nile is navigable from Bari for thirty hours further,
but forms here different arms, the most important of which
comes from the east, and flows past the great country of
Berri, which is fifteen days' journey towards the east, from
the mountain-chain of Bellenia (Pelenja). I also am of
opinion that the river, one arm of which, where we lay near
the island of Tshanker, was three hundred metres broad, and -
afforded only a shallow stream of about three feet in depth
to the vessels, which had become light by reason of the pro
visions being consumed, notwithstanding it had two miles'
rapidity, may be navigable for a considerable distance further
when the high water covers the rocks, provided no cataracts of
consequence oppose the course. Therefore he gives thirty
hours for the southern direction of the river before he makes
an arm go to the east. We could only have settled how far
the river was navigated, by proceeding on our course, if that
had been possible at the time.
However, there has never been any talk of these thirty
hours ; and Arnaud has, of his own will, reduced the distance
of thirty days, repeatedly given to us by the king of Bari
and his attendants, as the time required for navigating the
different arms, in order to pretend that he was closer to the
sources. But the division of time into hours must be known
on the White Nile first, before such a flippant substitution
can take place. It seemed also incredible to me that Anjan
should be a month distant, but thirty days were plainly re-

APPENDIX: 347
presented to us. If we reckon only eight hours to be a day's
journey, the distance would be eight degrees, half of which
we should have to deduct naturally for local impediments,
to bring the geographical position of Anjan under the
equator. That we had not misunderstood the word " month"
was proved besides by Lakono clenching his fist three times,
to denote thirty days, and also by the expression that after
two months (therefore at the end of March or beginning of
April) the rains commenced. Lastly, the circumstance that
several other tribes were said to dwell on the shores towards
the south, bespeaks a considerable distance. It is, however,
still a question, whether the country of Berri is ten or thirty
days' journey off. Lakono, in whose eyes the copper so
abundant there has an extraordinary value, might have
feared, at the commencement of our acquaintance, that we
wanted to spoil his trade with Berri, and to enrich ourselves
with its treasures: from this supposition he increased the
distance threefold.
But when Arnaud arbitrarily reduces that first statement
to fifteen days' journey, it shews a thoughtless disposition ;
for he was not only present at the conversation with the
king, but we have spoken of it among ourselves. He has,
therefore, either entirely forgotten it, and his recollection has
not been assisted by any notes written down at the time,
which is quite necessary in these countries, notwithstanding-
the illness to which we are constantly liable; or he wanted
to give a greater air of probability to his account by fiction,
namely, by substituting thirty hours for thirty days.
When I find marked on his map above Bari, " Country of
the Pulunchs," it recalls clearly to my recollection how he
believed every thing without investigation, and noted down
what Thibaut told him. I was sitting one day sketching
on the rocks ofthe island : some natives stood by, who under
stood very well what I was doing, and I still see- them — how

348 APPENDIX.
they extended their arms horizontally, and made undulating
movements, which was meant to denote * continuation ofthe
mountains lying before us to the south, and then mentioning
several names, held up their hands together, and by the
thumb indicated to me that there was one mountain ex
ceeding all the others in height, whilst they looked conr
temptuously at the other chain of mountains. At the same
time they bawled in my ears, because I did not speak,.
and still less could answer, so that I was nearly
deaf, under which affliction they probably thought
I was labouring. I got up and went down to the shore,'
where I saw Thibaut standing. He stretched his hand
towards the south, with an enquiring look, and the people
said " Pulunch," whereupon he burst out into an Homeric
laugh, and said, "that is something for Arnaud." The
latter has made a country out of this observation, and
perhaps with justice.
With regard to the time ofthe winds and rains in Central
Africa, I have tried several times, but find myself incapable
of explaining these magnificent natural phenomena. It
appears certain, that the monsoons of the Indian, the trade-
winds ofthe Atlantic Oceans, and the north winds from the
Mediterranean, are subject to different natural laws in the
interior of Africa, where it is comparatively cooler than on
the sea-shore; for the winds were never constant during
our course : they changed continually from side to side, and
all the observations and calculations of our sailors, accurate
as they are in other places, failed in ascertaining the tide
and quarters of the moon. As to the mutual swelling of
the two Niles near Khartum (called by the Turks Khar-
dum), the sources have nothing to do with the first rising of
the water, but the succeeding ones give a quantity of water
to the countries subject to tropical rains, together with their
gohrs and tributaries, among which the Sobat is the most

APPENDIX. 349
considerable for the White Stream. This mass of water im
mediately becomes imperceptibly level, excepting certain
disproportions, with the head of Sennaar, conformably to
hydrostatic laws.
It would be an idle attempt to endeavour to speak out
clearer and more strikingly touching the formation of the
soil of Central Africa; for a master like Professor Carl Ritter
has already done this in his " Glance at the Source-territory
of the Nile." In order to set aside many preconceived
opinions, and again to give the true imprint of my own
views, I do not hesitate to annex the report of Dr. Girard,
whom I have several times mentioned, and which was con
tained in the above instructive little work, being partly
founded upon my geognostical collection ; because this learned
young man has discovered and ascertained, with acuteness
rarely to be found, the quality of the soil in Africa, so far
as I am able to judge from my expedition. He says : —
" There are three great mountain chains in the eastern part
of Central Africa, one extending to the east, the other to
the South, and the third to the West. The eastern one sur
rounds the large Tzana-lake, and contains the sources of the
Tacazze and the Blue Nile, and ascends easterly from the
latter to a height of more than 10,000 feet. The southern
and south westerly, respecting the elevation of which no
thing is known, forms the water-shed between the tri
butaries of the Nile and the territory of the streams flowing
westerly, and is that region formerly called the Mountains
of the Moon. Lastly, the north-westerly, the centre of
which is in the Jebel Marra, from which some tributaries
wind towards the south, to the Bah'r-el-Abiad ; but the
most of these subordinate streams flow towards the west,
the centre of Africa. Between the eastern and southern
mountain-stock, there is another chain of high mountains,
not extensive but lofty, which, forming the westerly part of

350 APPENDIX.
Enarea, appears to spread to the kingdom of Bari, and
attains in Enarea a height of more than 7000 feet.*
" A marsh-land extends to the south of this mountain,
and the Goshcop flows into it : if it be permitted to carry
our surmises so far, we should say that not any high moun
tains are to be expected further to the south, for coffee and
cotton are cultivated on the other side of the Goshcop-
valley, because we conceive that there is a salt-lake, and,
lastly, a land producing gold. The former may be considered
to lie on a dry table-land, the latter on a low plain, wherein
the auriferous loam and sand may be deposited.
" A similar auriferous foreland seems to extend in the
centre of these regions, between the highlands of Enarea
and Bari, to the upper course of the Bah'r-el-Abiad, and the
mountains of Kordofan, Sennaar, and Fazogl. f It is
a country which is inhabited partly by negroes pursuing
agriculture. Another part consists of wide plains, covered
with high grasses, wherein many elephants pasture, and
which is bounded on the north by a girdle, thirty miles in
breadth, of a ground containing gold-sand. These are the
plains through which the Sobat (written in French Saubat)
flows with its tributaries to the Bah'r-el-Abiad.J The
specimens from the shores of the Sobat are composed partly
of a micaceous sand, of a brown black ochrous clay, of
chalky sand, and partly of a conglomerate, which is baked
together and composed of small fragments of limestone.
The sand, when it is pure, consists of several little yellowish
* The above supposition is justified by the plastic proportions given :
we must assume, however, that this chain falls away to the country of
Bari, but swells up south of Bari, and joins a mountain-stock in the coun
try of Anjan. — Tlie Author.
t Gold is, however, unknown in Bari. — The Author.
t I do not know of any tributaries belonging to the Sobat. — The
A tttlior.

APPENDIX. 351
grains of quartz, a small portion of reddish feldspar, some
brown iron-stones, tombac, brown mica, and little grains of a
black mineral, the nature of which cannot be accurately
ascertained. This composition denotes that the sand derives
its origin from a mica slate, and gneiss chain of moun
tains, not very distant ; for if the sand were far from the
mountains from whence it sprang, it would not contain
coloured mica. The sand of the shore of the Bah'r-el-Abiad,
in the kingdom of Bari, is perfectly similar to this sand,
only somewhat coarser in grain, and, moreover, merely
attaining to the size of millet. It contains principally
quartz, then the same brown mica, only in a larger quan
tity than in the preceding sand, and, in addition, several
more of those black grains, proving that there is hornblende
here. This comes probably from syenite and diorite masses,
as they are frequently seen in gneiss and mica-slate moun
tains. They might, however, be of volcanic origin, for they
contain, in great abundance, the lava of the Jebel Defa
faungh (written in French Tefafon) on the north boundary
of the said plain. The mountain is clearly an extinct
volcano. It rises probably from a basaltic plateau, for
basalt with olivine and pyroxene are seen in it, and red-
brown porous lava, with large rounded hornblende crystals
and dark-grey tophus, formed of clear little porous frag
ments of lava and fine ashes, seem to cover its declivity.
The tophus, as well as the lava, does not contain any
vitreous feldspar, nor is any pumice-stone observable among
them, but all the products of the volcano shew that it is a
converted basalt.
" The volcanic activity appears not to have extended far,
and is only discovered on thenorthern margin of this cauldron,
which was probably, at one time, a large sweet-water basin,
for the stones of Sennaar in the north, those of Fazogl and
Bertat in the east, ofthe country of Bari in the south, and of

352 APPENDIX.
Kordofan and Jebel Tira in the west, are of a different
nature. "The collections in this city are derived partly from
M. Werne, who made them in the expedition sent by the
Basha of Egypt in the year 1840, and partly are owing to
the scientific liberality of M. Russegger ; and they afford
sufficient information with respect to the general geognostic
relations of these scarcely discovered mountains.
" The chain of the Mountains of the Moon consists,
according to the several specimens, of gneiss and mica-slate.
One of these specimens, was taken from the most southerly
point that the expedition reached, and indeed, 'from the
cataracts in the land of Bari ; ' that is to say, from the rock
which prevented the expediton from penetrating further into
the country. It is gneiss, composed of white feldspar, and
much black mica, and mica- slate; the friable and exceed
ingly gran ulous quartz does not contain feldspar, but. small
scaly black mica. There is found, moreover, in the valley
of Berri, magnet iron-stone, which, however, does not seem
to be commonly known ; for it has been collected to the
amount of several pounds weight, as being merely sand,
without any other particles of stone.*
" The magnet-iron displays also, in several places, brittle
iron-ore, and reminds me of similar occurrences in the large
mica-slate mountain-chain of the Brazils.
" We do not possess, unfortunately, any specimens from
the high mountains of Enarea, but the stones of the lands
of Bertat, Sennaar, and Fazogl, are well known through
• The magnet iron-stone is not found in the valley of Berri, but
principally in the mountains of Bari, especially in Korek, where it must
be, however, general ; for the iron-sand I brought with me, which was
already cleared from stones, and perhaps from mud, appears in the
mountains themselves, in the dry beds of the torrents, and washed out
hollows and ravines. — The Author.

APPENDIX. 353
M. Russegger's excellent collection. There are granite and
gneiss mountains in the land of Bertat, and in the southern
part of Fazogl ; chlorite slate (probably the stone bringing
gold here) follows this chain towards the north, together with
mica-slate ; and lastly, in Sennaar, there is also clay-slate.
In the latter, which is very much changed in some places,
veins of granite and quartz are at the top, so that here
also, as in many other points, the clay-slate appears the
more ancient, the granite the more modern stone. Granite
is met with likewise on the Bah'r el Abiad, in the Jebel
Njemati (Iemati), being partly of pink feldspar, white
albin, grey quartz and black mica, and partly composed
without albin, and only of dark red feldspar, white quartz,
and black mica.
" Similar species of rocks are found in Kordofan, viz.,
granite, gneiss, and mica-slate. However, diorite makes
its appearance towards the south, consisting of white feld
spar, green and black hornblende, and a little volcanic
sand. On the island of Tira there is also chlorite slate.
But the most remarkable thing is the appearance of clink
stone or phonolite, found in Koldadschi (written also
Kodalgi and Koldagi), in Russegger's collection.
" This circumst ance is conclusive of a considerable de
velopment of basaltic stones in these regions, though it does
not denote volcanic phenomena ; for phonolite, with us, only
appears in those basaltic mountain-groups where there has
not been any eruption of volcanoes.
" A sandstone and hornstone formation, probably be
longing to the latter tertiary rocks, is situated before the
mountain-chain of Kordofan and Sennaar, to which Mount
Mandera, which consists of syenite, is united in the east
It forms the Jebel Mussa, specimens from which have been
given both by Russegger and Werne.
" We wind up the geognostical picture of these countries by

354 APPENDIX.
saying that we find granite, gneiss, and mica-slate generally
spread, with which clay-slate, chlorite-slate, and diorite
present themselves, all of the earlier formation, — new
stones of basalt, phonolites, and volcanoes, springing from
the tertiary epoch, join on immediately to the others. The
limestone conglomerates, found in the Sobat, have perhaps
their origin in chalk lime-stone, to which they belong ap
parently, judging from external appearances ; and if this
should be the case, the geognostical relations of the eastern
part of central Africa are closely allied to those of Palestine,
Syria, and Asia Minor."

THE END.

LONDON :
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Bangor House, Shoe Lane.

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