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TEAVELS AND ABVENTUEES

SWEDEN AND NOEWAY

OR,

NOTES FEOM THE NOETH.

BV
W. BLANCHARD JEKROLD.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHES BY
THE AUTHOR.

LONDON:
NATHANIEL COOKE, MILFORD HOUSE, STRAND.
1854.

PEEEACE.

I cannot give this book — rapidly sketched — to the
public, without thanking the, many gentlemen to whom
I am indebted for kindnesses and courtesies shown to
me on my journey to Sweden and back. That I was
happy in my travelling companions, I heartily affirm ;
and I hope that these will read my rough notes of
our journey with some satisfaction. This journey was
cheered, and made pleasant and instructive, by the at
tentive friendship of Count A. E. De Eosen ; by the
occasional society of Sir John Eennie; by the kindly-
exercised influence and hospitality of Sir Edmund
Lyons; by the attentions of M. Wcern; the companion
ship of Conrad Montgomery, and Mr. Charles H. Ed-
mands ; by the advice and assistance of Professors Eet-
zius and Louv&n of Stockholm, and of M. Thomsen,
the learned originator of the Ethnological Museum of
Copenhagen.

PREFACE.

With these hearty acknowledgments, I leave my
book to the judgment of the public. I have endea
voured to describe correctly my impressions of a coun
try new to me; and without reserve or a studied ad
herence to the usual methods of giving a history of
travels to the public, have wandered hither and thither,
forgetful of the critic's iron pen. May it pass lightly
over my performance !

©eiiicatiott.

TO THE COUNT ADOLPHE VON ROSEN,
KNIGHT OP THE SWOEDj ETC. ETC.
My dear Count,
The composition of a dedicatory page is not an
easy task. It is not difficult to repeat for the thousandth
time those flowery sentences ; those hackneyed expressions of
esteem and friendship ; those avowals of humility ; and those
graceless eulogies, which make up generally a conventional
dedication. I might begin, " To one who has," &c. &c; or
" Accept, my dear Count, this humble tribute," and so go on
to declare that I had not the smallest notion my book was
worth a moment's consideration; and that if you accepted
the dedication, the acceptance would demonstrate your infi
nite good nature and condescension, and my temerity. ¦ Or
I might, putting three words upon some lines, and one word
upon others, run down the page epitaph-fashion, and con-

V1I1 DEDICATION.
trive to be thus very sounding — sounding as a drum, and as
empty. Or I might be betrayed into verse, and puzzle my
self during long hours to find rhymes for your names, your
titles, and your virtues. But I shall not adopt any of these
conventionalities ; for my belief is, that the .simple records of
the facts of your life will be the best form of dedication I can
adopt. This course will demonstrate most clearly the reason
of my personal esteem ; and will explain to Englishmen why
your name is one that may be appropriately placed upon a
dedicatory page in a book on your native country. I will
therefore append the facts of your life as my justification
with my countrymen; and will conclude my personal address
to yourself with cordial thanks to you for your many kind
nesses to me while I was in your fine country.
I am, my dear Count,
Yours faithfully and gratefully,
W. Blanchard Jerrold.

The Count Adolphe Eugene von Kosen was born on
the 31st of December, 1797, at Malmo in Sweden, while his
father was governor of the province. Having completed his
studies in the University of Upsala, he joined the Swedish
navy, in 1812, on the breaking out of the war. In 1815 he

DEDICATION. IX
obtained his lieutenancy, and shortly afterwards entered the
English navy, to study naval science under the command of
English authorities. He joined the Iphigenia, commanded
by (then) Captain Hyde Parker. On his return to Sweden
he was called upon to serve his Government in the capacity
of aide-de-camp to the Viceroy of Norway, and also once
more in the navy. These services occupied the Count till
the year 1826 ; when, being convinced that navies were
about to be revolutionised by steam power, he returned to
England to study steam machinery in company with his
friend Captain Ericsson, the inventor of the screw-propeller
and the caloric engine. The treatment whieh these two
gentlemen have received from English and French govern
ments, after many years spent in enthusiastic efforts to
, adapt the great modern power to the development of na
tional defences, is as disgraceful as it is notorious.
Having studied steam machinery in England and Bel
gium till 1828, Count Rosen returned to Sweden, to foster
in his native country the great power he had seen doing
its wondrous, work abroad. He was appointed superinten
dent of the steam-engine manufactory of Motata, then a
government undertaking. He also originated great works
in the town of Nykoping, on the Baltic. These enlightened
labours , occupied him till 1831. In this year the King of
Greece applied to the Swedish sovereign for an officer to

DEDICATION.

whom the organisation of the Grecian navy might be in
trusted. This important application brought into prominent
public notice the Count's abilities. To him the king at once
turned, and replied to his brother sovereign by sending the
accomplished engineer and the brave seaman to Athens. On
the death of the famous Admiral Miaulis, Count von Rosen
was appointed to the chief command ^of the Grecian navy,
with the title of Prtfet Maritime, and had an official residence
in the arsenal of Paros. The Count here planned some im
portant reforms in Grecian maritime affairs ; but his efforts
having been repeatedly thwarted by the German party, which
was then strong in Greece, and he, having become convinced
that the then complicated state of political affairs would pre-
• vent the development of his reformatory scheme, tendered his
resignation to the king about the end of 1837.
But he did not leave the country without some compen
sation for his enlightened services. He had won the hand of
an accomplished Greek lady — Euphranisa Eigo Rauzale"e, the
daughter of a very ancient house, originally from Constan
tinople. About the time of the Count's departure from
Greece, his old friend, Captain Ericsson, sent to offer him
a share in the patent of the screw-propeller, in consideration
of his old services. The Count accepted the offer, and once
more came to England ; where he agreed with the Captain
to push the invention (in which they had a joint interest)

DEDICATION. XI
in France, leaving the Captain to exert himself with the same
object in England. The story of the struggle that ensued is
well known. Captain Ericsson, in 1839, left England for
America, thoroughly disgusted with the treatment he had
received from our Admiralty, and bearing with him the con
solation that his invention had been pirated with impunity.
Count Von Rosen was left in Europe to fight single-
handed against government rapacity and individual disho
nesty. He undertook, However, to push the patent to some
result in England ; and after four years' incessant labour, suc
ceeded in forcing the Admiralty to try the Auxiliary Screw-
Propeller (with the engine and the whole machinery under
water) in the Amphion frigate. The Count also prevailed on
the French authorities to try his machinery in the Pomone.
In both these vessels the effect was highly satisfactory; and
since that time the two countries have been vying with each
other in extending this principle to every vessel afloat : — yet
up to this moment not the slightest acknowledgment of the
Count's labours, nor of those of Captain Ericsson, have been
made either by France or England. In this work the name
of Mr. Augustus Holm (who helped the Count throughout
the struggle) should not be forgotten.
Having accomplished this labour, the Count turned his
attention to the introduction of railways into his native
country. For eight long, weary years, in the face of many

XII DEDICATION.
difficulties, cheered by very few friends, assailed by unrelenting-
enemies, the Count has worked to beat down the prejudices
of his nation : it is only within the last few months that he
has really mastered all his difficulties.
In this slight sketch of the Count's career, I think I have
stated facts which must make his name welcome to English
readers. To his energy we are mainly indebted for the noble
screw war-ships that guard our coasts and keep us formid
able : yet, as I have written, up to the present moment these
labours remain unacknowledged by the English Government.
With this significant fact, — this addition to the list of
valuable servants shamefully neglected by the governments
that have profited by their services, I bring my dedicatory
pages to a close.

BEAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

CHAPTER L

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN.

Thinking of the innumerable weighing-
machines upon which my luggage would
figure before its return to London-
Bridge, I drove to the Dover railw.iy-
station, on a night of last November,
with a very small portmanteau and a
very little black bag. " Only that lug
gage, and bound for the north — for
Stockholm !" was the exclamation of a
friend. He laughed then ; but at Stock
holm I laughed at him. I thought the
officials looked with a certain respect at
me when they read " For Stockholm,"
on my bag ; and I felt a kind of indulgent pity for the poor
people who were going to Reigate, Tunbridge WeUs, or Hast1

2 A BRAGE-BEAKER with the swedes.
ings. The winter air was driving sundry delicate families south ;
so that when I had settled myself comfortably in my seat,
I was not surprised to see about me a regular watering-place
family, bound for Hastings. Their lively faces, bright with
the anticipated sea-winds of a southern and sheltered coast,
beamed from each compartment of the carriage. They recalled
to me the happy and genial company of Hastings ; also the
many cockneyisms I noticed in that " quiet" watering-place.
These were cockneys in the carriage with me. If the sound
of Bow- bell have any thing to do with cockneyism, I should
say that the father was born in the belfry of Bow church. I
sat dreamily, thinking first of the north, with its wild Norse
legends, but generally of the family about me. And I began
soon to ask myself questions about them.
How is it, I thought, that directly the train leaves London-
Bridge for a watering-place, the sober citizen whom I met an
hour before in Cheapside in his usual costume, and wearing
his customary air of monetary importance, becomes a very'
careless, jaunty personage, with an extraordinary cap on his
head, and a nautical tendency in his conversation? Is he
called upon to speculate as to the veering of the wind, the
fulness of prevailing tides, and the probabilities for and
against a ground-swell ? On 'Change he is quite at home ;
and I should not, for one, venture to put a question to him
there, nor doubt his verdict as to the security of the Icelandic
five-and-twenty per cents. We all know that in the city he
is honoured as a very keen, sound-headed merchant ; that it
is his habit to wear a stock at least five inches in depth ; that
under ordinary circumstances his collars reach, in an unbroken
wall of white _linen, to his ears ; that in broad daylight he
wears a dress coat ; that a silk hat " of last year's fashion,'' as

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 3
young Dandelion of the Temple would say, is his usual head
dress ; and that throughout a troubled life he has presented
to the world, every morning, a chin, the smoothness of which
has been a valuable advertisement to his razor-maker. But
here he is, sitting opposite me, in the most extraordinary con
dition. He is a kind of human ichthyosaurus — part sailor,
part gent, and part city man still. I hardly know him ! His
collar hangs loosely about his throat ; his cravat is tied only
once round his neck, revealing the mark, clearly defined on
his cheek, where in every-day life his town-collars end ; his
coat is a strange colour, and cut away in true sporting fashion ;
there is a dingy tint about that chin to which Mechi must
have pointed so many times in his moments of wildest tri
umph; and the boots have gaiters over them, fastened with
buttons large enough for a modest man's pilot-coat. Here is
his " good lady" (his own description) on his right. Bless me !
is that the apoplectic little lady I saw in the imminent danger
of attempting a polka at a city ball, given for the relief of
Aldermanic Vanity (a valuable institution by the way)? How
changed is the picture ! — as novelists write when introducing
the heroine after the terrible escapes of the second volume.
The contrast between the appearance of the lady who is suf
fering from toothache, in the pictorial advertisement, and that
of the same lady after the application of the stopping, is not
more striking than that which my neighbour's wife makes at
this present moment, comparing her with her appearance at
the ball.
Then the colours of the rainbow floated about her ; now
she is the oddest bundle of clothes, surmounted by a blue veiL
She wears three shawls, all of different shapes and patterns ;
the point of the shawl proper creeping out from under the

4 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
polka coquettish ; she has — but I am not learned in the details
of the change ; I only know that there is a change, and that it
is wonderful to me. All the budding citizens of this family
are here too : they form a remarkable group of children. I
return again and again to the father, however — to the ichthy
osaurus ! As we approach the sea, he forgets the quotations
of the commonest stock, and can think only of the extraordi
nary performances of the American yacht. He is going " to
look about him" at one of the stations. With this view he
dons a felt hat, built upon the model of that in possession
from time immemorial of the Italian brigand of the Surrey
Theatre. While he is away, I think of all the oddities I have
seen at the sea-side, and the questions I put to myself while
there. These thoughts are jumbled with anticipated falls into
snow-drifts, and fights with severe frosts for the possession of
my nose.
Why, I thought, did that expert conveyancer of Chancery
Lane, who was at Hastings last year, walk about with a colos
sal telescope under his arm? I saw him skim the horizon
with it from time to time, and with an anxious air polish the
glass, to assure himself that the craft in the offing was the
ship he was looking out for. But what possible interest could
he have in the Nancy of Shields, copper-bottomed, bound for
Calais with a miscellaneous cargo ? Why did his friend Mr.
Thomas Tuppin of Islington talk about the " larboard bow ?"
His friends (/ don't know him, be it fairly observed ; I have
had my misfortunes, but this has not been one of them) were
well aware that on the previous Tuesday he had taken advan
tage of a dead calm to be rowed about for an entire hour, and
that some months before he had dared the perils of the ocean
between Folkstone and Boulogne ; but they had never heard

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 5
of his voyage round the world, not even of his trips to India,
nor his cruise in the, Mediterranean, for the simple reason
that, before that summer the bosom of the deep had never had
the honour of rocking Mr. Tuppin. Mr. Tuppin was dressed
exactly like Tom Turbot of the Lively Lass ; but Mr. Tuppin
was as unmistakeably of Islington, as Tom Turbot was indis
putably a personage accustomed to salt-water.
Presently the .city family leave the carriage ; and I go on
my way north alone. I think of them and their destination
still. The sandstones they will have, mounted ; the " Trifles
from Hastings" that wil,l be bought for those extraordinary
little children ; the bazaar they will visit, that is still " selling
off ;" the huge delight with which they will hear Mr. Snuf
fles' lecture on the individuality of the individual, Mr. Tickle
on the personality of a person, and Mr. Flabby on the party
feelings of a party ; the miraculous curative properties that
will be ascribed to the sea ; the additional coat of grease that
vigorous family will add to the leaves of the circulating library.
Well, I hear the sea rippling along the shore ; I see the frown
ing cliffs gleaming on my left, so my thoughts take a farewell
of the watering-place. I hope that in its eccentricities, in the
extravagant costumes, in my city friend's moustache, in the
general neglect of strict conventionalisms, in the nautical as
sumptions of the acute conveyancer, and in the careless break
fasts in exposed parlours, there is much to be delighted with :
— much that wears away the rust of dirty London : — some
thing that dilutes a little the starch of Belgravia. Well, a
cheer for my friend's sea-port, with all the extravagances ap
pertaining thereto.
And now to see my luggage safely on board for Ostend.
As I followed the porter along the wet quay, I am afraid I

6 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
asked with an ill-feigned indifference, whether the sea was
pretty quiet. The rain drove me and all the passengers to
the cabin, to witness the usual humours of a voyage from
Dover to Ostend. The cabin was insufferable, from a diffused
odour of creosote, which a prudent gentleman was mixing with
a prayer for the repose of his stomach. I set that gentleman
down from that moment as my personal enemy ; but soon
afterwards I erased the memorandum. The ship lolled quietly
enough on her way, gently rocking us. The gentleman with
faith in creosote lay on his back, white but quiet : a stout man
above me snored for the general amusement : and there was
not wanting to the scene that curious animal, half foreigner, half
Englishman — that remarkable mixture of swagger, good-na
ture, officiousness, and ignorance — a tourist. This gentleman
at first disdained the conveniences of the cabin, lit a cigar, and
went up to brave the cold and rain of the night. Presently he
returned, remarked that the cabin was close, but that the rain
being severe, he must try to stand it. The knowing eye of
the steward was upon him directly ; but it was only when he
threw himself on his back, and declared that he had been half
way round the world (as1 far as it is possible to go by land ?
I inquired), that the steward rushed towards him with a con
venience not suggestive of seaman-like qualities. The in
dignation of the tourist was tragic, and the steward retreated
under the vehemence of his scorn : but presently, as the offi
cial lingered at the cabin-door, his assailant, grown weak as
a dove, accepted, "on second thoughts," the proffered kind
ness, and availed himself of it most completely. The roar of
laughter which greeted the tourist's complete prostration had,
I thought, something savage in it; but when this unhappy
gentleman raised himself on one arm, and began to give a parti-

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN.

cular account of the storms he had braved, to the entire cabin,
a laugh came even from the quiet gentleman with the creosote.
I wish Leech had been there to sketch him, and Thackeray
to describe him. Here is my sketch of him :

On reaching Ostend we lost sight of him for a short time ;
but when we were all ushered into the long dark room where
the luggage was to be searched, he turned up, speaking the best
English-French, with lamentable facility, to an official, who
contented himself with rolling the R's of a pet oath at him
during his pauses. It turned out that the noise originated in
the dogged determination of the tourist (who, of course oppor
tunely, informed us, he had lived half his life in France
and Belgium,) to translate quatorze into forty francs, the sum
asked to book his luggage to Cologne. Now quatorze may
mean forty at Clapham, but scarcely at Ostend.

8 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
Having passed our luggage, we went up stairs to breakfast.
Here again the tourist became conspicuous. As a matter of
course he had travelled one half Europe (I hope he is travel
ling the other half now), and had never seen so poor a break
fast. We had cold chicken, eggs, ham, bacon, capital coffee,
particularly good Cognac ; but the tourist was at once at log
gerheads with the waiter.
As morning dawned to show us how dreary Ostend looks
on a rainy day, we were summoned to the railway-station. I
had already discovered two fellow-travellers, who were going
to Stockholm, one the patron of the creosote. We walked
together to the station, passing by the way the regular beggars
posted here and there to catch the early penny from pas
sengers. At the station, the woman who sold cakes, rushed
after one of my companions (who wore goloshes, exquisitely
polished and exquisitely little), and implored him to sell them
to her. This offer was indignantly rejected ; and the lady
retired, deeply disappointed, casting longing glances at the
prize, at intervals. Having watched the tourist into his carri
age, we took our seats in that at the greatest possible distance
from him, and went cheerfully on our twelve hours' journey
for Cologne. We travelled steadily forward, to the terrible noise of the
signal-horns of a Belgian railway, through the flats of Bel
gium— -past Bruges, with linen bleaching in its suburbs ; Gand,
now modernised and insipid — to Malines, where we dined.
Is it welcome information to record that here we had an excel
lent beefsteak and unexceptionable omelette ; that the tourist
thought the cheap prices monstrously dear ; and that we bought
a Belgian paper of an extraordinary newsvender, whom I
sketched roughly : here he is I

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN.

We returned to the train,
and a shorn monk seated him
self beside me. I was astonish
ed. The middle ages seemed to
be running into the nineteenth
1 century. I should not be more
surprised to be jostled 'by one
of Odin's Berserkers in Fleet
Street some quiet morning. A
regular conventional monk, with
the tonsure conspicuously cut,
the hood, and the general
aspect of the middle ages, seem
curiously out of place in a
modern railway-carriage, travelling its thirty miles an hour.
I thought he must have stepped out of some old frontispiece,
or walked out of some antique frame. I thought of the jolly
songs about him, how " Many have told
Of the monks of old,"
of the " Friar of orders grey," and wondered whether my
neighbour would support the reputation of his order at a
capon, or before a bottle. He was a mild man, with a noble
expression, however, that seemed to rise above the silly taunts
of " heretics ;" and was particularly polite in bidding us adieu
at the next station, when he took his large brown book under
arm, and sauntered into a Belgian village. Altogether he
seemed to be framed in a cobweb ; a bit of the past that had
escaped the modern broom ; but in no way a despicable bit,
to be joked about by the clever people of these days, when

10 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
religion pales or grows red in obedience, to fashion, and
creeds receive their colour from Almack's. I often think
Carlyle is right: "With our sciences and cyclopedias, we are
apt to forget the divineness, in those laboratories of ours.''
We speed onward, and the country becomes undulating
and fine as we approach Liege. Now the hills swell almost
into mountains ; the foliage here and there clings still to the
abundant trees ; the warm browns of the wood contrast happily
with the varied greys of the tumbled rocks ; the valleys here
abouts are laughing earth-dimples — full of snug cottages sending
silver smoke into the bright air. And now the modern Liege,
with its black chimneys, and its thousands of hammers, its
dark artisans and busy commerce, burst upon us. Soon after
leaving Liege dusk came. For a few minutes I watched in
tensely the grey rocks topped with fiery furze melt into the
purple distance, and then threw myself back to sleep — to wake
at Cologne. " Coin I" shouted a man, holding a lantern to my eyes.
I woke immediately, and bustled out to the searching-room
within the station. Here I submitted my collars and shirts
to the criticism of the Prussian authorities ; and in company
with my two travelling companions (one of whom I shall for
the future call the Captain, the other Poppyhead), got into a
Vast omnibus, having left the tourist violently stating in bad
French to a Prussian official, who spoke only bad German,
that he had lost his porte-monnaie, and therefore could not
pay the proposed duty, nor the fee for removing his luggage.
He appealed to me, as to the barbarity of the country, with
tears in his eyes ; but I never felt less sympathetic in the
whole course of my life. He told me that he was going to
pay a visit to a sister settled at Cologne — settled decidedly, I

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 11
thought. We rambled down a winding grove of poplar-trees,
through the fortifications, down the narrow streets of the town,
across the market-place, caught glimpses of the cathedral,
stared at the famous Eau-de-Cologne manufactory, crossed the
Rhine upon the Bridge-of-boats, and so direct to the railway
station, en route, as the Morning Post says, for Hamburg.
The station is a fine building, and certainly has a fine re
freshment-room. We had been travelling during four-and-
twenty hours. To my companions, I remember, I remarked
about this time that I felt " seedy;" but of course this expression
would not do in a formal book of travels. But the truth is, I
have not made up my mind whether I shall write a conven
tionally correct account ; whether, like Talfourd, I shall publish
my daily bill of fare, and comment on the " specious sophism
of an egg" for breakfast ; or, like Ida Pfeiffer, tell the reader
how many people there are in Hamburg and other places, and
go through the list of sights, at the risk of offending Mr. Mur
ray, who seems to claim all the sights of Europe for his own.
The regular thing seems to be something between a catalogue
and a cookery-book. Now I have not the facts for a catalogue,
nor the taste for a book on the culinary art ; so shall attempt
neither. I shall rather endeavour to seize the spirit of matters
about me, leaving geography and statistics to Guy and Mac-
culloch; the hotels to Murray; and the kitchens to Soyer.
Those persons who want a history of Sweden may read Geijer ;
those who would like to form a thoroughly incorrect impres
sion of the Scandinavian peninsula, may study Laing, who
proves that Orebro is not Dumfries ; that Norkoping is not
Glasgow ; and who misquotes statistics to prove absurd
dogmas. In this railway refreshment-hall I found about thirty peo-

12 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
pie assembled, presenting a fine study of the various attitudes
of fatigue and hunger. In the farther corner a little German
child was sleeping, its mother tenderly watching it. Presently
(while we were engaged upon a partridge each) the mother
roused the child, and covered its head with the most coquettish
pink silk hood, then, a fantastic white lace veil; and thus
equipped, she took it to brave the raw air of a November
night in the train. Behind us a priest paced up and down
the hall talking to a very . serious young man, who seemed
to think there was something in all the good man was telling
him. Then there were fierce-looking soldiers grouped about
the hall, and railway officials as fierce and martial. On my
right, a portentous bundle of furs (from which a moustache
protruded somewhere below a sable cap) was smoking sullenly.
At the sound of a bell, the doors were thrown open, and the
lady with her child rushed upon the railway platform ; the
bundle of furs showed convincing signs of animation ; the sol
diers pushed forward for good seats ; and while I looked for the
luggage, Poppyhead engaged to get a carriage where we could
sleep comfortably. And he certainly did secure a comfortable
berth. We went out of the station into the darkness; we
talked drowsily for an hour or two — that is, I and Captain
talked ; but Poppyhead, who had slept only eighteen out of
twenty-four hours passed on the way from London to Cologne,
could not be expected to join in any conversation : — he con
tented himself with the most unmusical comments on our
remarks. We woke, cold and stiff, while the morning was pale, and
certainly before the day was " aired, " to quote Brummel.
Having scraped the thick coating of ice from the carriage-
windows, we found that we were travelling through a marshy

LONDON-BRIDGE TO- COPENHAGEN. 13
district, now covered with frost. The roadside-posts, striped
with the national colours, told us that we were in Hanover —
not the only country where the national emblems are displayed
upon sticks.* I began to feel the cold intensely. The Captain
(who had wintered in Sweden, but shivered in concert with
me nevertheless) assured me that, when compared with the cold
in Scandinavia, the present air was genial. The sun rose glo
riously, and turned the frozen landscape into a land of spark
ling jewels. But we were too cold to be romantic, and gladly
exchanged the contemplation of the beauties of nature for a
reasonable breakfast at one of the stations ; where we warmed
ourselves with scalding coffee, strengthened with Cognac, and
secured a roll each, containing slices of German sausage — being
determined not to spoil the breakfast that we anticipated at
Hamburg. Thus refreshed, we rolled ourselves up, and talked
quietly on our way to Hamburg. The conversation turned
upon the honesty of the Hamburg merchants ; but this being
declared a tax upon the imagination, we amused ourselves with
anecdotes of their dishonesty. We were told of a certain
Hamburg merchant who had realised an immense fortune by
taking the stock of traders about to become bankrupt, and
holding it till after the bankruptcy, then making a large profit
upon it. This course was stopped by a discontented bankrupt,
who disclosed the system, and had the merchant condemned to
pay a heavy fine. The merchant in question built one of the
finest houses in Hamburg ; and it is said that it drained his
pocket so continually that, in a state of consequent low spirits,
he attempted to drown himself.
The railway terminus is at Harburg. Here we took the
* In Denmark also the roadside-gates are generally striped with the
national colours.

14 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
steamer waiting for us, and steamed up the Elbe to the great
commercial city.
The cold was intense ; the sky, an Italian sky ; the air dry
and quiet. In half an hour we were amid the busy shipping of
the great free city of the Elbe. There was no searching of
luggage here ; no spying and noting ; no toll-levying ; no
robbery of foreigners for the good of the state ; we came and
went freely — and I touch my hat to the Hamburgers for the
freedom. We seized the driver of a droski, after some trouble, and
directed him to the Crown Prince hotel on the Alster Basin.
In his droski — a rickety vehicle, something between a Clarence
and a cab — we drove through some of the old parts of the
town, down narrow streets, with massive doorways, and pro
jecting points every where; past all kinds of costumes and
people ; surly burghers in their furs ; brisk Vierlander girls,
with their short dresses, snowy 'kerchiefs, and flat wooden
hats ; keen, dapper men of business ; strutting dames, darkly-
complexioned, all velvet and fur, followed by girls with
caps trimmed with jewellery and gold lace; many Israelites,
serious and sallow as usual. Presently, from a triangle of
houses that seemed to jut one into the other, we emerged into
a noble square — the square celebrated all over the world — in
the centre of which is the Alster Basin, and beyond which
flows the Elbe. Our hotel, and all the large hotels of the
town, are in this square.
Seen from one of the upper windows of the Crown Prince,
the Alster Basin, backed by the picturesque windmill, with
palatial buildings on all sides ; — the broad Jungfernstief ele
gantly planted with young trees, and gay with the beauty and
fashion of the great free town, running on all sides ; and droskis

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 15
rumbling hither and thither ;— all this attraction, on a bril
liantly clear winter day, when the cold is dry and the spirits
excellent, is something to be remembered over many evening
fires at home. The hotel is a small town in itself : cold in its
corridors, but with excellent appliances for warming its rooms,
in the shape of great earthenware stoves reaching to the ceil
ing, and warmed by substantial logs of wood. These stoves,
once fairly heated and closed, will keep a room pleasantly and
sufficiently warm for many hours.
A stroll in Hamburg has a confusing effect upon a
stranger. The inhabitants are not of the city — they are of all
nations, congregated here by the temporary calls of commerce.
The only chief element, it appeared to me, was the Jewish.
The mixture of races on the Exchange was something curious
to contemplate ; but here also, as I suppose on all the ex
changes of the world, the Jewish element predominated. The
Hamburgers, I should say, are a serious race of people —
phlegmatic — perhaps ascetic. Intensely proud of their city,
they think all beyond subservient to its grandeur. Yet they
have their sufficient amusements. First, there are their lux
urious supper-cellars, where the choicest delicacies are nightly
served to those gentlemen whose gambling on 'Change affords
the bill; where oysters are consumed in vast quantities, and
champagne flows incessantly. Then there are the cafes chant-
ants, where ladies in hat and feathers play the fiddle and guitar,
and coUect marks from the customers. There is also a casino,
at the entrance to which a guard, in a splendid cocked hat and
scarlet suit, decked out with gold lace, makes the visitor a
profound obeisance. These, and other audacious amusements,
are patronised by the Hamburgers. But the prevailing idea
is money-making ; to this all else plays a second part. I went

16 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
to the Exchange on a Sunday, and found groups of hard-
featured men sternly studying the news in the reading-rooms,
or sauntering nervously about the basement of their temple.
Hereabouts I met a burgomaster in his strange, gloomy dress :
—to me he looked like O. Smith in a translation, playing the
villain who has come to his wealth by foul means, and who
means to have his fling through three long acts before he dis
gorges. Our Vierlander girls hover about the Exchange in summer
time to sell flowers to the money-changers and stockjobbers.
Well, this may do its unseen good ; but to me a stockjobber
with a flower in his coat is a monstrosity. The flower withers ;
it is out of place. Throw it rather to the artist in his garret,
who will immortalise its splendid harmonies ere they fade.
Flowers, I am certain, have never been at a premium on any
stock-exchange. Our business lying in Sweden — in a region colder than
that of Hamburg (it was cold enough there) — we were ad
vised to equip ourselves at once for the north, and to pro
vide ourselves with an ample supply of Swedish money. We
could pay very little attention, therefore, to the sights of the
town, although the hotel-guide pathetically assured us that
we should not think of leaving Hamburg without having
visited at least twenty celebrated spots in the neighbourhood.
We resolved, however, to make the attempt. It was in vain
that he pointed out to us the strangely-fantastic hired mour
ners, who improve upon 'our "solemnly performed funerals on
the most reasonable terms," by supplying also the grief cheap;
so that heirs have nothing to do in Hamburg but to call after
the funeral to hear the will read. This is a fine custom for a
purely commercial city. These hired tear-droppers also at-

LONDON- BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 17
tend weddings; their duties on these occasions being, I ima
gine, to provide sentiment and high spirits to the party. Thus
joy and grief have their market-prices too ; and tears are sold
by the dozen — a great reduction being made, I should hope, on
taking a quantity. I am afraid that the hotel-guide formed a
very low notion of our taste when we stoutly declared that we
must proceed north without having visited the acknowledged
sights of the city. He looked upon me with particular pity
when I declared my utter abhorrence of sights ; that to me the
tomb of the local poet was not an interesting spot; that subur
ban tea-gardens did not tempt me when the thermometer stood
a few degrees below freezing-point ; and that I had no particu
lar inclination to inspect the house of the richest citizen. I
talked (he thought) wildly about getting at the heart of a com
munity; of visiting the least-frequented parts of a city — its
byways and lanes, its odd and peculiar corners — where the
natural life of the place is going calmly on, regardless of visi
tors. I hate historic relics dandled before you by avaricious
beadles ; ruins opened by silver keys. And so good day, brave
guide ; you will ring no marks of mine on your local shrines.
Carlyle says, " Great men taken up any way are profitable
company." Your sleek condition attests the truth of the phi
losopher's assertion.
But our business being to prepare for the north, I and
Poppyhead placed ourselves in the hands of the Captain.
The Captain was a man of experience. He instantly conducted
us to a shop crammed with fur-coats, fur-boots, fur-gloves, fur-
cloaks, fur-caps, and fur-gaiters. With the air of a traveller
who knew exactly what he was about, and was not inclined
to be done, even by a Hamburg tradesman, he requested the
attendant to submit some fur " rocks" for our inspection — the
c

18

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

heaviest he had. Forthwith the man dragged forward (for
it was hardly possible to lift them) some huge fur-coats (with
collars about the depth of the skirts of a modern English coat),
which the Captain handled, then set aside as too light. I pro
tested that it would be impossible to wear any thing heavier.
I was answered with the information that I had never wintered
in Sweden. Thus rebuked, I suffered the bargain to be made
for three fur " rocks," of terrible calibre, without venturing to
interfere again.
It now began to strike me very forcibly that I was not born
to endure a northern climate, and that I had chosen a bad season
for my visit to Stockholm. I bought also a pair of huge fur-
gloves ; and when I was placed before a glass in my fur-rock,
with my paws protruding, the ludicrous apparition was too
much for my seriousness ;
and to the disgust of the
attendant, who thought me
a poor devil unaccustomed
to travel, I burst into what
novelists call " an immo
derate fit of laughter." I
had the moral courage to
make a rough note of my
self. But our preparations
were not yet complete. Ac
cording to the worthy Cap
tain, over-boots were abso
lutely necessary to keep the snow out. We repaired at once
to a bootmaker's, where we were supplied with boots that
would astonish an Enghsh ploughboy.

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 19
And often afterwards did we bless the Captain for them —
and for the heavy furs.
Having secured these additions to our wardrobe-, and ex
changed mutual assurances that we looked ridiculous in them,
the Captain suggested that Hamburg was the place where we
should most advantageously convert our English money into
Swedish paper. We deferred to his judgment, and went
straightway to a' little dirty office in a side-street — part par
lour, part kitchen, part counting-house — where dwelt the
best arithmetician (so we were told) in all Hamburg. Ima
gine the aeutest follower of Cocker in a city of Cocker's devoted
disciples! On entering, we discovered a long coarse deal
counter, extending nearly the length of the room, behind which
were an old man and an elderly woman. The man was in a
dirty, shabby condition ; the woman looked like a superior
housemaid. A sturdy German or Dane had planted his elbows
firmly upon the counter, and was intently watching the old
man, who, with a bit of chalk, was wildly running a sum
about the board. Presently, after mature reflection, and try
ing the calculation two; or three ways, he gave the sturdy
customer his- load of Hamburg money ; and the customer
went on his way rejoicing, perhaps to have a petit souper in
one of the cellars, with his chum. The old lady addressed
us ; and while the Captain was talking Swedish to her Danish,
I amused myself looking about the queer little office. Behind
the old lady lay a heap of filthy, ragged, greasy paper; and
here and there, in careless heaps, gold and silver of various
countries; Money seemed to be very carelessly treated, to a
passing observer ; but I noticed that it was as carelessly
counted; at stray intervals, and dropped, as by accident, into
little drawers under the counter, which by the merest chance

20 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
the old man happened to lock. Presently, to my infinite dis
gust, the old lady caught up the heap of ragged, dirty, greasy
paper, and threw it upon the counter: then with a look of
inquiry seemed to ask the Captain if that was what he meant.
The Captain's eye glowed with pleasure at the sight of the
well-remembered dirt and grease ; and forthwith he began to
fumble about it, and in mysterious undertones to talk about
rix and banco. Then the old man came to the help of the
partner of his bosom and his bank, or, as I should think
they would say in Hamburg, of his bank and bosom. Forth
with, after a glance at the heap of Swedish official rags and
the bright English gold displayed by the Captain, the old
gentleman seized his chalk, and ran a sum vehemently up and
down the counter, here and there rubbing out a wrong figure
with his cuffs. Having drawn a perfect boa-constrictor of
figures (the earlier ones being in wide rows, tapering off gra
dually in graceful curves to a single figure), he opened a little
drawer, and threw a handful of Swedish gold upon the table.
The sight of this made the Captain exceedingly wroth ; he de
clared that he had been in Sweden a whole year, had never
seen one piece of Swedish gold in circulation, and that these
eoins had been recalled. But the old gentleman persisted in
counting them out, while the Captain persisted in vehemently
declining to accept them. At this point, with a look that
hovered between indignation and despair, the old lady went to
fetch her son — the man who could divide any thing by any
thing, and, as he proved, subtract to perfection. This prodigy
was a pale, spare, angular, yellow young man, with a forehead
of astonishing proportions, and an eye, I thought, of remark
able dulness, — of shabby appearance, and with a lump of chalk
firmly planted in his lean right hand. His father whispered

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 21
hurriedly to him, and forthwith he began to whirl a sum of
terrible intricacy about the table. The old gentleman, pre
sently catching his idea, also began another sum. And then
the two seemed to race, running the figures of their respective
sums into one another, without creating the least confusion ;
the father adding where the son was dividing ; the son firmly
planting his quotient upon the parental dividend. In the end
the son gave a patronising nod to the father, intimating that
the old gentleman's calculation was right ; whereupon the old
lady once more advanced to action, and began to count out the
Swedish gold. This attempt threw the Captain into a terrible
passion. He snatched up his English money, and began de
liberately to replace it in his purse. The changer and his
family looked astonished and disgusted ; but at last the Cap
tain agreed to take the paper-money (of which there was only
ten or twelve pounds' worth), and with this we left the most
remarkable money-changing establishment it has ever been
my lot to visit. I noticed that the bankers returned our part
ing salute with an ill grace : we found out the reason of their
disappointment at Stockholm.
I remember that we went direct from the money-changer's
to the hotel, for refreshment. The expectant gourmet will
pardon me that I forget exactly the details of the repast we
enjoyed. I have a notion, however, that every thing was fat ;
that a most promising appetite was soon spoiled. This trouble
passed lightly over all of us ; and we went to rest, having given
strict injunctions to be called two or three hours before there
was any reason to be on the move.
In the morning we made inquiries as to the best mode
of proceeding on our way ; and were told that a boat would
leave Kiel on the arrival of the afternoon train from Ham-

22 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
burg. In the hotel we could get no information from one
official the soundness of which was not vigorously disputed
by another. We left Altona in the afternoon train for Kiel. Altona is
a continuation of Hamburg ; but a sorry continuation, being
in Denmark, and therefore not presenting to strangers the hos
pitable freedom of its great neighbour. A gateway divides
liberty from the region of custom-house spies, and all the
annoyance and bribing thereof; but being an Englishman, and
knowing Dover, I can say very little about custom-house urba
nities. I often agreed eagerly with Nathaniel Hawthorne, that
" neither the front nor the back entrance of the custom-house
opens on the road to paradise." Altona, a very important
plape according to guide-books, and probably a very nest of
wonderful sights according to the local ciceroni, appeared to
me to be a very long, and a very wide, and a very straggling
street, with here and there a faint attempt at a side street. I
wonder what Mr. Murray will say to me if I venture to add,
that this Altona is only second to Copenhagen in point of im
portance? because, if I remember correctly, he makes a remark
in some sense approaching this in his Northern Europe.
We travelled from Altona to Kiel in three hours, to find
that the steamer had left a few hours before our arrival,
and that there would not be another boat for Copenhagen for
seven days. This gratifying intelligence was communicated to
us by a smug .young waiter (who could talk a little English)
with ill-concealed satisfaction. It soon appeared that he was
touting for the railway hotel, and that he could offer us a local
elysium for seven days, with good attendance. But before we
left the station it was necessary to submit our linen and
brushes to the critical eye of the Danish authorities ; which

LONDON:BRH)GE TO COPENHAGEN. 23
ceremony having been gone through, we placed ourselves in
the smug waiter's hands, and were conducted to his master's
hotel. Here we propounded the wildest schemes of progress.
Murray was thumbed vigorously, but to no purpose, I am
afraid. He informed us that Kiel had a university ; we wanted
to know whether it had a diligence, and whether that diligence
went the next morning. With particular alacrity the smug
waiter told us (as he uncorked our Baerisch ale) that there was
no diligence. We then inquired when the mail went, and
how. This was a fortunate question. We discovered that it
would pass through Schleswig on the following day on its way
to Copenhagen. We further ascertained that Schleswig might
be reached in three or four hours ; and to the evident mortifi
cation of the hotel authorities, we forthwith expressed our
intention of at once sallying forth in search of a carriage and
horses for the journey. With some reluctance the waiter pro
cured a little boy to accompany us to a stable that we might
inspect a carriage, and strike a bargain with the driver. Not
knowing one syllable of the language, we issued forth ; and
by dint of extraordinarily happy pantomime, we got what we
wanted. We then proceeded on our way for a stroll through
the little town. We knew that it had an excellent university ;
for here Niebuhr — stepping aside from all the gaieties of stu
dent-life — crammed his head with much of that erudition which
afterwards made him famous. Here also that memorable treaty
was signed, on the 14th of January, 1814, by which Norway was
annexed to Sweden; and all that the Count de Bernstorff could
obtain, at the Congress of Vienna, to indemnify Denmark for
her losses, was, that Norway should be liable for her own debt,
and that Lauenburg should be added to the Danish dominions.
On this cold night, the few ships quietly dallying with the tran-

24 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
qui! waters of the harbour, and the town lying on the shores
of the Baltic in silence, these recollections of the troubles, the
bloodshed, and the anger which preceded the said treaty, came
upon me heavily. It was outside this harbour that Nelson
sailed with Parker ; and within twelve hours of this, is the
seene of the worst work the great admiral was engaged upon.
We chatted about these mighty events, as we walked briskly
home, to rest before the morrow's race for the mail-diligence.
The watchman was shouting loudly on his way that the hour
of eleven had come, as a broad hint (we supposed) to revel
lers, when we reached our hotel, and went straightway to bed.
My bed was, with but unimportant modifications, like the
drawings of Saxon beds to be found in the Harleian Ms. : — a
narrow comfortless box, not much larger than a coffin, covered
with a little woollen counterpane the size of the bed, destitute
of blankets, and, on this cold night, not tucked up ! This was
the first occasion on which I thanked the Captain for my furs ;
and burying myself in them went to sleep, thinking of the
quaint gentlemen who figure, with extraordinary hands and
tortuous legs, in the said Harleian Ms.
We rose early the next morning, and found that a heavy
fall of snow had covered the ground during the night. The
carriage came to the hotel-door, and was quickly loaded with
our furs, our luggage, and a bottle of brandy. The bill was
not so soon settled ; for it was a most extortionate one, with a
tremendous charge for those terrible bougies, which are the
curse of continental hotels. The Captain vowed that he would
take the bougies with him ; but finding this would be incon
venient, proposed to break them and throw them into the road.
Throughout this discussion the hotel authorities maintained
the most provoking coolness, and the quarrel ended in an

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 25
insignificant reduction of the account. The Captain spent a
few minutes, however, in the endeavour to persuade the smug
waiter (who spoke a httle English) to translate into Danish the
Captain's opinion that the proprietor was a thief; but this
request the waiter persisted in refusing. We got into the car
riage, and drove off along the fine roads to Schleswig. It was
a bright cold day, and we went briskly forward through weU-
cultivated lands, over exceUent roads, with material lying at
frequent intervals at the roadside for repairing, topped with
square flats of straw, which, being propped . up on one side,
served to shield the road-menders during their meals. Part of
the country was very beautifully varied ; part, hardly dry from
the blood of the Holstein war. The posts by the roadside were
every where resplendent with the Danish colours ; the officials,
who inquired whether we had any contraband goods in the
carriage, particularly polite. Imagine any man belonging to
an English Custom-house, touching his hat to a foreigner after
searching his luggage !
Presently, while clouds were gathering and the wind was
rising, we came upon an arm of the dark Baltic (the Sley),
rolling his surly waves upon a fringe of ice near the wheels of
our carriage. Beyond we could see the dark-grey Danish
hills, picked out from the gloomy sky with snow : — aU looked
desolate and gloomy, but on the scale that raises gloom and
desolation to grandeur. Not knowing exactly the hour at which
the mail would pass through Schleswig, we entered this town,
and rattled along its uninteresting streets to the hotel where
the mail was to stop.
The doors were thrown open as we approached the hos
telry, and a company of Danish soldiers presented themselves
to take a leisurely stare at us. Our luggage had not been

26 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
cleared from the carriage, when the horn of the mail-diligence
was heard. Had we waited, as advised, at Kiel, tdl ten o'clock,
instead of starting on our journey, as we determined, at nine,
we had missed our only chance of getting to Copenhagen direct.
Again, the reader may be certain, we blessed the railway-
hotel proprietor at Kiel, and sent our compliments to him by
the coachman ; and I take this opportunity of recommending
his establishment to all people who like a good supply of wax
candles, and have not the least objection to be overcharged
extensively. We rushed at once (after dismissing the Kiel coachman,
who grumbled at receiving only double his usual fare) to the
little office of the diligence, which was in the yard of the
hotel, through a mass of half-thawed snow that reached to our
ankles (here we blessed the Captain for our snow-boots). In
the little office we found a man at least six feet high, dressed
in a splendid scarlet suit, and enjoying (as it appeared) a pro
digious pair of moustaches, which he was dexterously con
triving to keep out of a basin of soup he was in the act of
dispatching. Our appearance produced from his lordship a
sUght inclination of the head. We made known our business,
and he directed the little clerk at his side to fill up our places
in the coupe. We booked to Flensburg, where, we were
told, we should find a boat for Copenhagen. Having been
aUowed to begin a very indifferent dinner in company with
twenty Danish soldiers, we were hurried into the diligence,
and to the sound of a horn rumbled out of Schleswig. After
leaving the town, night soon closed in upon our journey ;
Poppyhead went to sleep, with Murray in his hand, to dream
of the exchanges he had been trying in vain all day long to
comprehend, and to snore for our particular amusement. About

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 27
eleven o'clock, I think, we reached Flensburg, to learn that
there was no boat ; so we booked to Copenhagen — or rather
to Roeskilde. At Flensburg we rushed into the hotel (having
had but an apology for a dinner) in search of refreshment.
We were met with coffee and rusks of the shape familiarly
known to mothers as tops-and-bottoms. And here I may
make a passing remark on these terrible concoctions. They
pursued us relentlessly from Hamburg to Copenhagen : every
where, when we were famishing after an eighteen hours' fast,
they were cruelly placed before us in company with coffee re
markable for every Variety of flavour save that of the coffee-
plant. It was in vain that we called for other refreshment ;
these were wholesome and abundant, and the inhabitants
seemed generally to have arrived at the conclusion that man
wants but tops-and-bottoms here below. On our journey be
tween Schleswig and the Belt, the tall guard consumed enough,
I should say — to speak moderately — to rear two remarkably
healthy twins upon. Hamburg is famous all over the world
for its tops-and-bottoms ; in fact, the city appears to be one
vast artificial mother, and one from whose peculiar sustenance
I, for one, was very glad to be weaned.
We went forward towards the Little Belt, and reached the
point of embarkation about five or six o'clock in' the morning.
We were ushered into a long low room, and once more offered
coffee and tops-and-bottoms. Here we waited about an hour
— I suppose for the dawn of day ; and when the eastern sky
glimmered, the tall guard, in his great scarlet cloak, appeared
with a large lantern in his hand, and bade us follow him. Well
wrapped in our furs, we dodged him closely along a low shore,
where the waves were beating unseen (for it was stUl dark, and
a heavy rain was falling), stumbling at every step over wet

28 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
planks, with the unpleasant noise of the hidden waters at our
feet. The guard walked bravely forward, however, and we
kept our eyes intently fixed on the light. Presently we heard
the hissing of steam, and in a few minutes could perceive a
little steam-boat, dirty and wet, waiting for us. As soon as we
were fairly on board, the boat paddled on its way across the
Little Belt that divides Jutland from the island of Funen.
The passage occupied about half an hour, and as we landed at
Assens, the day fairly broke, discovering no very beautiful
prospect on that wet and cold November morning, after a
lengthened fast — a fast presenting aU the hunger of religious
abstinence without the credit thereof, and therefore doubly
provoking. We rushed to the house where the diligence was
to be prepared, in company with the tall guard. Here this
official, with a profound obeisance, wished us good morning,
and handed us over to a guard (also in a scarlet cloak) who
looked Uke a pressed copy of his predecessor, being short, but
prodigiously stout. We were ushered into a long, terrible,
dark room, with dark walls and dark furniture. We proposed
to have a fire lit ; but were informed that in ten minutes we
should be on our way to Odense. We then asked for break
fast ; and after a lapse of five minutes, a woman, on whom nature
had played serious practical jokes in the matter of nose, eyes,
and mouth, brought in three little cups of coffee, but an un
limited supply of tops-and-bottoms. The look of Poppyhead
was ferocious. We called loudly for meat and bread : at last,
the guard appeared, bearing the most repulsive lumps of
bread and two or three scraps of meat (hard as iron) in a
saucer. We seized these delicacies, and rushed with them
into the diligence, and were glad to be dragged out of Assens.
But the beef was too hard ; we had the strength of appetite,

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 29
but not the strength of jaw to eat it, and we finally threw it
out of window. Our notions on travelUng in Denmark were
not at this moment compUmentary to the country; but at
last we ventured to hope that at Odense — the capital of the
island — we should certainly have that midday scramble which
the Danish guard caUed dinner, or, properly, mittag. We
passed the time on the road between Assens and the capital
observing the well-cultivated lands of Funen, which supply
oats and rye, and other agricultural produce, to Norway. At
Odense we were not aUowed to descend from our places, but
were dragged over the terrible pavements of this great glove
and leathern accoutrement manufactory, down terribly narrow
streets, none of which suggested the neighbourhood of a bu
siness in any way resembUng that of Jean Maria Farina.
SuUdly enough we went on our way to Nyebourg, which
place we reached about dusk. We were reminded that this
was the birthplace of Christian II. , and that the old palace
was reduced to the purposes of a magazine and arsenal ; but
we were too hungry to think of history. Here we made an
effort once more to get refreshment ; and the result of vehe
ment pantomime (I see now before me the face of Poppyhead,
who always woke up to discover that he was hungry), and
the help of a young Danish sailor, who was on his way to join
his ship bound for the Indies, was the production of several
triangular wafers of bread covered with wafers of fresh cheese
and tongue. To this slender refreshment we added some ex
ceUent Danish beer, and were hurried away to the boat with
tantalised appetites. The passage of the Great Belt from
Nyebourg to Korsor is a more important affair than that from
Jutland to Assens. Here the channel is wide, and the steam
boat takes two hours to cross from one port to the other. This

30 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
strait, as the readers of Guy know, connects the Cattegat with
the Baltic. It was this way that the prudent Parker would
have led his fleet, had not the shallow waters prevented him,
and compelled him to follow the van of the EngUsh fleet led
gaUantly through the Sound, past the hundred throats of Elsi-
nore vomiting their red-hot iron at the fleet. All this work
is not forgotten by the Dane in the present day ; and his
cheer would not be the faintest of any were Louis Napoleon to
throw his hundreds of thousands of troops upon our shores.
At Korsor is found a diligence waiting on the landing-
place. No dinner again! More coffee and tops-and-bottoms,
and a sUce of beef hard as iron ! We proceeded at once on our
way to Roeskilde, the old historic ground of Zealand. Here
the warUke Absolon, of the time of Valdemar the Great, was
bishop in the twelfth century, and busied himself 'with the wars
more than with the faith of his royal master, in times when
the Baltic and the country hereabouts were harassed with great
wars, and Henry the Pious brandished his potent sword in the
face of his enemies. Here, before Copenhagen was founded,
dwelt the brave kings of Denmark, and here many of them Ue
buried in the old cathedral. In absolute contempt of these
associations, Poppyhead and the Captain slept soundly all the
way from Korsor to the radway station at RoeskUde ; and they
woke only to know whether there was a refreshment-room
attached to the terminus. We found that there was the ac
commodation in question ; that it was under the care of a very
saUow gentleman, who was smoking placidly in a Uttle office,
surrounded by goutte glasses, wine and spirit bottles, cigars,
and coffee-cups, with his knees nearly touching a coffee appa
ratus on a little fire. We asked for some beer and coffee, and
then went to inspect a table covered with cold meats. Here

LONDON-BRIDGE TO COPENHAGEN. 31
when we could eat, we determined not to abate the ferocity of
our appetites till we reached Copenhagen. There was a
turkey garnished elaborately; but Poppyhead declared, after
a minute inspection of the bird, that it was only fit to be
sent to a museum of skeletons, — not one ounce of flesh re
maining upon it. This was interesting to an anatomist, but a
terrible disappointment to a gourmand. So we remained in
the refreshment-room for two hours, waiting the first train,
which left at seven o'clock. In the grey of the early morning,
while the white mist was rising from the town, as the muslin
seems to melt from before the gorgeous scenes of a modern
spectacle, we left RoeskUde : — the morning sun was beginning
to burnish the high points of its lofty cathedral as we lost sight
of it. The radwayran through the flat surface of Zealand; and
the sun rose magnificently into the clear winter air, as we
neared the city of the potent Valdemar — the city of sieges —
the city of Thorwaldsen — shaU I add, the city of Hans Chris
tian Andersen ? Certainly as we approached, I thought of his
True Story of his Ufe, and of his friendship for the great
sculptor.

CHAPTER II.
A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN.
Copenhagen is, to give my first impression of it, a picturesque
city. Its inhabitants are gaUy dressed; the Amagra costume
is full of colours; the ships Ue alongside the canals in the
street, and form floating market-places ; the squares are no
ble ; the houses taU and stately; the shops are picturesque,
resplendent with brilliantly coloured goods ; a taste for art
seems to show itself in every street ; the genius of Thorwaldsen
presides every where, — he is worshipped., ay, as devoutly as
my lord Eiderdown at Eiderdown. Yet Denmark is, in no sense
of the word, a democratic country; rather, I should say, in tem
per and thought, aristocratic to the core. The Danish skull, ac
cording to my friend Professor Retzius of Stockholm (if I re
member his lecture rightly) is one of the worst in the world.
Though not phrenologicaUy good, yet, I say, I think the Dane
is constitutionaUy an aristocrat. I speak from observation,
not from history ; and without caring to intrude upon the reader
my opinions upon the relative advantages of aristocracy and
democracy. But I will say, that I Uked the Danes ; admired
the tone of their sentiments ; the enthusiasm in their souls for
things noble and good ; the warmth of their friendship towards
individual members of a nation that cast its mercdess missiles
into their homes. There are men, I thought (as I walked
about the streets), in this busy, happy city, who can remember

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 33
seeing Nelson, followed by the murmurs of the populace, make
his way to the palace of the Prince Royal, and there endeavour
to bring him to the terms proposed by Admiral Parker. These
terms were, that Denmark should cease to belong to the con
federation of neutral powers ; that her ports should be freely
opened to English vessels ; and that a British force should be
stationed in Denmark to protect her from the vengeance of
her former allies. The reply of the prince was princely — he
would sooner be buried in the ruins of his capital than con
sent to this base desertion. That year (1807) was a terrible
year in the history of Denmark. Even now the Danes talk,
I am told, with darkened expressions, of the 2d of September,
when the English fleet opened its murderous attack upon the
city. Sixty hours incessant bombardment ; the sky raining
sheUs upon these noble towers ; three hundred buUdings laid
in ashes ; and then a capitulation that made every brave Dane
gnash his teeth with rage. The British fleet took posses
sion of twenty-five ships of the line, sixteen frigates, and fifty
smaUer ships ; and left the Danes powerless to oppose their
authority in the Baltic. Of this proceeding much has been
written. Vehement opinions have been given ; but I leave the
matter to Dunham and others. I have an opinion ; but not
being inclined to support a controversy on the subject, I shall
keep it to myself. I and the Captain talked the matter over.
I think Poppyhead objected to the bombardment as unchris
tian, seeing that it must have kept so many people awake for
two or three consecutive nights. I wiU answer for Poppyhead,
that he would have snored throughout the business.
I have said that there appeared to me to be a keen sense
of elegant enjoyments in Copenhagen ; that here " the learned
pate" ducked not " to the golden fool." Everywhere are mu-
D

34 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
seums of art, of natural history, of ethnology; aU open to the
great body of the people; open — avert your pious head, Croly
— open on Sundays! Your humble servant was a Sunday
visitor to the Ethnological Museum; and in company with its
learned founder, Thomsen, traced the gradual development of
the arts among races stiU held by us to be barbarous. We saw
the implements and manufactures of the natives (always ex
cepting Europe) of cold climates, who do not use metals, and
have no approximation to a Uterature ; then those of nations of
cold climates who use metals, but are still without literature ;
and lastly, those nations which use metals and have a Utera
ture; This classification is also adopted by the learned foun
der in regard to the inhabitants of warm climates. I followed
the professor through the spacious corridors fiUed with his
noble work: listened with earnest interest to his enthusiastic
explanations of his comprehensive plan : watched the- glow
upon his face as he tapped the sonorous metal of the Chinese,
and defied the most acute beU-founders of Europe to make
any thing approaching its perfection. He loitered inteUigently
before the writing-materials of the Chinese: humorously de
scribed an immense piece of tapestry from India, on which
were grotesque figures of English soldiers : exhibited the au
tograph of the Emperor of China : and with earnest sorrow
lamented the poorness of his Persian collection. As we passed
through the apartments of the museum, I watched the groups
of spectators gathered about the various cases ; the gay pea
sants in their bright dresses; the ladies in their comfortable
furs; the soldiers in their regimentals; — all seriously ob
serving—learning generally, I should say, from this ethnologi
cal lesson, not unchristian dogmas — not infidelity and scoffing
^-not contempt in any sense for religion. And then I noticed

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 35
that this crowd was particularly courteous to my guide, and at
every point greeted him with respectful obeisances. Here was
voluntary homage from the heart of learning to enlighten en
thusiasm. My good friend (for in five minutes he was my
friend) talked of his museum as a young man with poetic
insight talks of his mistress. To get a dress from West
Greenland was his first lock of his lady's hair ; the arrival
of a great instalment of Japanese manufactures equivalent
to a young man's honeymoon. WeU, I thought, this is good :
enthusiasm in the work to be done — and the work is the
meanest handicraft, if any work earnestly done be mean —
is the right thing. There are higher temples than ethno
logical rooms perhaps ; but in this Danish museum I saw
much good thought, many high suggestions seldom talked
of in temples proper ; I fear seldom worked out by the high
priests of these.
I also visited the Danish Museum of Natural History : — a
coUection beautifully preserved and admirably grouped. Here
the birds were not glued Ufelessly upon Uttle clumps of wood,
but were arranged in attitudes iUustrative of their peculiar
instincts. I remember a nest of owls admirably grouped, and
other specimens equally good ; I made a note of some. The
cases are numbered as in the note below.* The advantage of
this picturesque and instructive arrangement is obvious. The
instincts and relations of animals are hereby impressed upon
the minds of the unscientific — often an incitement to learn is
aroused. This museum was also open on Sunday. The great
* Ordo v., species 24 : Ardea minuta. Ordo ii., species 7 : Garriulus
glandarius. Ordo iii., species 2. Ordo ii., species 48. Ordo v., species
59 : Crex pratensis. Ordo vi., species 47 : Sterna nigra. Ordo i., species
36 : Scops Aldrovandi.

36 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
art-temple of Denmark — that affectionately raised by a grateful
people to one of her iUustrious sons, where, amid his glorious
works, he Ues buried — the Thorwaldsen Museum — is the scene
of Sunday recreation also. Here, amid the great works glow
ing from this dead countryman's immortal hand, all classes
meet to pay reverence to, and to feast upon, the Beautiful.
.Here Paganism has its beautiful types; here Christianity is
interpreted in masterpieces of devout tenderness. Here is
Venus with the apple ; here the solemn, the grand, the simple
figure of the Saviour, with sermons in every fold of the gar
ment — thoughts of Heaven in every line of the majestic head.
Yet- Exeter Hall cries, Close the doors of the art-temple on
Sunday, and Usten all day to Croly. In art there is no re-
. ligion ; in beauty and nature no hearty Christian lessons. Is
it so ? A certain Catholic money-lender, when about to cheat
a customer, always drew a veil before the portrait of his fa
vourite saint. Hazlitt says, " It seems as if an unhandsome
action before the portrait of a noble female countenance would
be impossible.'' Here, rather, is truth, to my mind.
The Thorwaldsen Museum was erected by the municipal
body of Copenhagen, aided by public subscriptions. The edi
fice was begun in 1839, and was opened to the public in 1848 ;
and in this year the coffin of Thorwaldsen was lowered into
the mausoleum prepared for. it in the central spot of the buUd
ing. When I reached the museum, I found wreaths, fresh
from the tender hands of friends and disciples, scattered about
the grave. Not flowers strewn hereabouts in the excitement
of a public ceremony ; but laid upon the marble unobtrusively,
in the presence of no eye to commend or flatter, in no ex
pectation of popular applause. I could not help contrasting
this worship of a great man's memory — this tenderness at his

A STRqLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 37
long-closed grave— with the aspect of Sir Joshua's resting-
place in the dusty crypt of St. Paul's ; with Fuseli's half-ef
faced name in the same place. I thought of Hood's unregarded
tomb ; of aU, in short, who were great in England, and ever
have been sUgbted. Ay, on Sunday, after church, some Dane
deposited on the great man's grave some winter-flowers; and
no clerical gentleman snarled at the offering, I feel assured.
I might write a long description of the Thorwaldsen Mu
seum; of the associations that cUng to it; of the building, as a
specimen of architecture. But those who care to know, know
already that the buUding is designed after the fashion of an
ancient Etruscan tomb ; that its exterior is decorated with paint
ings illustrative of the life of the sculptor ; that its interior,
deeply and soberly coloured, to throw up the statuary, is divided
into many distinct chambers ; that these chambers contain the
casts ofThorwaldsen's works, and many of the original marbles
(as the Venus) ; that here the visitor may see the exact copy of
the sculptor's room as he left it, his furniture, and the bust of
Luther, on which he worked the day of his death. I think
Andersen's account of him, and his landing at Copenhagen in
1838, is warm, and good, and brotherly. " Thorwaldsen,
whom, as I have already said, I had become acquainted with
in Rome in the years 1833 and 1834, was expected in Den
mark in the autumn of 1838, and great festive preparations
were made in consequence. A flag was to wave upon one of
the towers of Copenhagen as soon as the vessel which brought
him should come in sight. It was a national festival. Boats
decorated with flowers and flags filled the Rhede ; painters,
sculptors, all had their flags with emblems : the students' bore
a Minerva, the poets' a Pegasus. It was misty weather, and'
the ship was first seen when it was already close by the city,

38 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
and aU poured out to meet him. The poets, who, I believe,
according to the arrangement of Heiberg, had been invited,
stood by their boat; Oehlenschlager and Heiberg alone had
not arrived. And now guns were fired from the ship, which
came to anchor, and it was to be feared that Thorwaldsen
might land before we had gone out to meet him. The wind
bore the voice of singing over to us ; the festive reception had
already begun. I wished to see him, and therefore cried out
to the others, 'Let us put off!' ' Without Oehlenschlager
and Heiberg?' asked some one. ' But they are not arrived,
and it wiU be all over.' One of the poets declared, that if
these two men were not with us, I should not saU under the
same flag, and pointed up to Pegasus. ' We wiU throw it in
the boat,' said I, and took it down from the staff ; the others
now followed me, and came up just as Thorwaldsen reached
land. We met with Oehlensehlager and Heiberg in another
boat ; and they came over to us as the enthusiasm began on
shore. The people drew Thorwaldsen's carriage through the
streets to his house, where everybody who had the slightest
acquaintance with him, or with the friends of a friend of his,
thronged around him. In the evening the artists gave him a se
renade, and the blaze of the torches illumined the garden under
the large trees ; there was an exultation and joy which ready
and truly was felt. Young and old hastened through the open
doors, and the joyful old man clasped those whom he knew to
his breast, gave them his kiss, and pressed their hands. There
was a glory round Thorwaldsen that kept me timidly back."
All this homage and serenading is odd enough to us when
offered to an artist. Very long may the genius of a Bally give
souls to lumps of clay in England before the faintest echo of
homage like this floats to his ear. I cannot choose but call

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 39
some little points hereabouts to the minds of those who would
close every gate upon the artist's works on Sundays. I would
bid them put two or three serious questions to themselves :
give less attention to bishoprics, and a little more to the spirit
of Christianity : care less about the surplice, and more about
the humiUty it should cover. Then they might aUow that an
impulse which is as universal in nature as the instinct of self-
preservation, attaches man to the True, which, whether mani
fested in the results of science, the graces of literature, or the
realisations of art, is the Beautiful. There is, I believe, a kind
of moral gravitation in human nature towards the Beautiful,
that has only recently attracted the attention of men who have
wielded the sceptres of nations; but now it is acknowledged in
many places, and is about to be used for the good of the human
race. The man, touched with a sense of beauty, alive to har
mony, and filled with a feeUng of reverence for the grandeur of
the scheme of which he is taught to believe himself the highest
emanation, may be reached and controlled by means that
would in no way influence a coarser nature. It is a hard
matter to treat with the sullen strength of ignorance ; but the
soul that has the light of the Beautiful burning within it is
bound by all the highest attributes of which human nature is
susceptible, and is easily controUed. Only a cord wiU bind
the hyena ; but emotions were given to bind men. Therefore,
that civilisation which develops a mighty nation, glistening
with gold, and loaded with the vast treasures of the inhabited
world; which represents the perfection of cunning, and the
highest elaboration of the means to wealth, is not, in the proper
sense of the word, civUisation ; while the picture, powerful as
a battle-piece, lacks the touches of emotion — the emotional
laws, which issue from the closet of the poet and the phi-

40 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
losopher, the laboratory of the man of science, and the studio
of the artist. It is comparatively easy, as I think, to vote sup
pUes; to make motions on the state of the nation; to frame
smart saUies, and, in the midst of personal contention, to pick
up here and there, as by chance, little bits of obvious truth that
may be fairly added to the statutes at large ; but it is not often
that men are given to the world, who can demonstrate the
reason of our position as a globe from the falling of an apple,
or sketch the mighty proportions of the giant of the nineteenth
century from the steam of a tea-kettle ! Neither do the
annual millions of births include always an infant destined to
grow into a Shakspeare ; yet many destined to flourish in
lawn sleeves, and cry hush to music, and call for a veil to
throw upon art. We may always find a serviceable prime-
minister ; but the sun seldom warms the temples of a new
poet; we may generally command a man who can frame a
passable budget, but not in everyday life do we meet a Phidias
or a Raffaelle. If, in the present movements Of social bodies,
any unanimity may be discerned, it tends, I think hopefully,
towards the Newtons, the Shakspeares, and the Raffaelles of
their day. Lesser stars than these, all of them, yet leaders,
discoverers, men with admirable jewels in their heads, worthy
of attention before aU other claims. The practical tendencies
which have led us to our present prosperous commercial state
wiU soon be regarded, I hope and believe, only as the baser
part of civilisation. The best lessons of civiUsation are not to
be gathered from the successful merchant in his saffron coach
but rather from the modest artist, snugly painting in his
studio— alone with his high thoughts, and comfortable with
moderate comforts. He fives in close communion with the
truths that are thickly scattered about the great solitudes of

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 41
nature. Say he is painting for the people, who are now
beginning faintly to understand him. At his door thoughtful
men must pause to gather hope. Bentham and his foUowers
must sink into insignificance before the social reformers who
present, themselves at the baby's cradle, instead of waiting at
the prison door. Shall the labourer see Beauty, in all her
noblest manifestations, steadily approaching his threshold ?
She bears in her arms the glorious works of God's elect ; her
limbs glow from the touch of Phidias and Canova ; and from
her seraphic countenance the souls of Raffaelle, Guido, Murillo,
Salvator Rosa, Angelo, and Rembrandt shine upon him. The
sight is one to touch the hearts of us aU, is it not, reverend
gentlemen, seen, ay, on a Sunday afternoon ? Why not see
at once that the degrees of comprehension by which art is
judged in a mixed community, prove the beneficial effect
of even its rudest and most unsatisfactory development?
Say we place Turner and a labouring agriculturist side by
side on the brow of a hill, with a glorious landscape before
them. Dissect the eye of the painter and that of the working-
man, and you shall find that the former has an organ, in any
physical particular, exactly resembUng that of his companion;
yet mark, reverend sirs, the difference of their vision. The
countryman sees the river winding about the landscape; he
can distinguish Jones's fields from those of his master ; he can
discriminate between oaks and chestnuts ; he sees the bounds
of the county, and he declares that it is fine arable land at his
feet. The fight in his eye is not very bright — it is not fixed ;
his pulse is placid; he sinks listlessly upon the sward, and
busies himself with his pipe. But Turner's eye is fixed,
and bright with the fire of genius. He sees before him aU the
marveUous beauties, that, with a magic touch, he will repro-

42 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
duce for the benefit, the enlightenment of his race. Jones's
fields are to him so much opportune brown, that relieves the
brightness of the swelling masses of rainbow-foliage which lie
beyond them. What marveUous passages of beauty ! what
variety in the flow of the river — there, where it runs through
those dark clumps of trees, it sparkles like a traiUng serpent ;
and there, where the cornfields glow, a cloud lies between its
bosom and the sun ! And then how sweetly the fine Unes of
the sober foreground ; that grey gable end, with the dim
smoke rising in the golden Ught, and the groups of cattle
panting in the shade of patriarchal oaks ; how exquisitely
all these send back the distances ! And then how the clouds
come growing from afar off, darkly red when they touch the
horizon, and brightening as they rise, with the glimpses of the
blue, purple, and green atmospheres that part them. That
wondrous eye of the painter takes in all these harmonies at a
glance ; analyses and orders them ; and then, with a power
which I, for one, heartily reverence and worship, arrays them
upon canvas to gladden our homes. Well, many people say,
waken the ploughman to these beauties, if he have no other
time, on every Sunday afternoon. I say, that the eye which
lights daily upon a beautiful object, drinks in at least some of
its beauty, and dwells ever afterwards with pain upon the ugly
and the base. Also, the eye that delights in imitations will
learn to love the Beautiful, and may presently yearn to wander
in the realms of art for ever. Do as you will, reverend gen
tlemen have repUed ; but not on Sundays. This seems to be
the preaching of men who have six days' holiday in any week
to men who have one.
As I have written, I visited Thorwaldsen' s shrine on Sun
day. On that day I wandered amid the beauties of his glorious

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 43
genius ; dreaming of no evil, thinking none, till taught by the
speeches of reverend gentlemen, which reached me in the
newspapers. " Erastianism, pluralities, prebendal staUs, and
pony-gigging parsons; what work were they Uke to make
against the proud, rugged, inteUectual republicanism, with a
fire-sword between its lips, bidding cant and Ues be stUl ; and
philosophy, with Niebuhr criticism for a reaping-sickle, mowing
down their darling story-books ! High time it was to move,
indeed. High time for the church warriors to look about them,
to burnish up their armour, to seize what ground was yet re
maining, what time to train for the battle." High time now too
is it to speak more of the soul and less of the furniture of religion ;
to acknowledge that art and science have something divine
in them as well as archdeacons. And thus I leave my Sunday
visits to the tender judgment of my saintly countrymen.
I might indulge in long, orthodox descriptions of Copen
hagen, — of the AmaUenstrasse, the Gotherstrasse, and the
other fine, lively, picturesque streets of this city, which, like
Hamburg, owes its most remarkable features to a great fire.
I may say that the Kongensnytorf is a fine square, displaying
very commanding buildings to great advantage; and in one
corner giving a highly picturesque view of the shipping lying
in the port, laden chiefly, hereabouts, with fuel ; and that the
central space is occupied by an equestrian statue of Christian V.
Of the great royal palace, near Thorwaldsen's museum, I shaU
not offer any description, for the simple reason that I did not
visit it.- I have no particular interest in the upholstery of
strangers. I had seen Versailles and other palaces ; I knew
what long golden galleries and marble staircases were, and
so rather preferred to wander idly about among the people,
watching the operations of the Uvely market-place, noticing

44 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
the general respect with which, as Hans Christian Andersen
passed along the streets, all people raised their hats to him. I
was too much occupied watching the yawning cellars, which
come half-way across the pavement, to pay my dutiful obei
sance. Again, there are men to whom I would raise my hat
before Christian Andersen ; but this was not the question : I
admired chiefly the sentiment that impelled his countrymen —
they thought him a great man, and they paid deference to his
greatness. In England we worship men of high birth who
condescend to be clever.
The curse of Danish hotels, as of Swedish hotels, is the
lack of good attendance, and the number of EngUsh waiters
who cannot speak EngUsh. On our arrival at Copenhagen we
were introduced to a boy, a prim, active fellow, who could say,
" Yes, sir,'' " coffee," and one or two other words, but who
could not comprehend one syUable addressed to him in Eng
lish. With the prince in the Lady of Lyons, he could not
understand EngUsh as we spoke it, and wondered probably,
like the elevated gardener in question, who the deuce could.
But here I should pay a passing tribute of admiration to the
black guide of Copenhagen, known to every English traveller
who has visited the city within the last ten or fifteen years.
He speaks two or three languages, is an excellent arithmeti
cian, has his confirmed opinions on most points of poUtics, en
joys his own particular theories on the beautiful in art, and is
so proud of his perfect English that he has taken particular
pains to collect from passing traveUers the latest slang of
good society. He would scorn to call money by any other
name than " tin," unless, to avoid alUteration, he were com
peUed to take refuge in the less fashionable word " rowdy."
Certain Danish exhibitions were " seedy," not to say " slow "

A STROLL ABOUT COPENHAGEN. 45
according to his phraseology ; and certain members of our
aristocracy, to whom he had acted as guide, and by whom he
considered he had been badly treated, were " scaly.'' He ven
tured an opinion that " there was nothing like leather," when
Poppyhead expressed his determination to buy a third pair of
over-boots ; and was decidedly of opinion that certain notabi
lities of the city (all of whom he knew, and whom he seemed
to regard as his inalienable stock in trade) were " bricks." He
informed us that there was " no end of fun" to be found in
Copenhagen, and pitied us sincerely when, after resisting his
endeavours to lure us to the local casinos, we expressed our
determination to proceed at once to Helsinborg.
Having procured a bill of health from the Swedish consul,
and had our passports further defaced (for the benefit of the va
rious exchequers concerned), we proceeded in a droski, cram
med to the roof with furs — somewhere in the depths of which we
contrived to stow ourselves — to the Ophelia, a steamboat plying
between Copenhagen, Elsinore, and Helsinborg. The Ophelia !
— Shakspeare's Ophelia ! We were conducted on board by
the black guide, who, when I inquired whether we should have
a fair passage, repUed, with a pedantic air highly ludicrous to
behold, " Pretty bobbish !" We went rapidly out of harbour
past the Danish fleet, lying covered, and resembling very closely
huge copies of the Noah's arks offered to children. These fine
war-frigates, all dirty, and covered with dirty roofs, with here
and there a few dingy men crawUng about them, did not pre
sent a very imposing spectacle. We passed some fine steam
boats and some fine merchant-men, as we steamed out merrily
about mid-day into the Sound. The view of the town from the
sea is reaUy very imposing ; and the batteries which I noticed
on either side of us as we steamed onward toward the strait
which connects the Sound with the Cattegat, suggested that

46 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
the enemy's fleet must have had tough work in these waters.
Every point of the coasts (to the right Sweden, to the left
Denmark) has a pecuUar and a striking historical interest,
pleasant to dweU upon,, but too familiar to most readers to
need recapitulation ; but the main point of attraction to an
Englishman is the Uttle town of Elsinore, made memorable to
aU ages by the genius of Shakspeare — a genius recognised,
we find, even by the Danish steamboat company. Here, if I
wished to make a pedantic display, I might open up old spe
culations as to the parentage and deeds of Hamlet ; inquire
(citing a terrible array of authorities) whether Shakspeare's
prince be a pure creation of the dramatist's genius, or a cha
racter elaborated and refined from an old tradition ; whether a
Norse myth, or a substantial historical character ; and whether
the plot of the tragedy was a plagiarism or an original con
ception. But the truth is, I am not deeply interested in the
question. I have a kind of comfortable faith in the suggestion,
that from a misty, rugged, Scandinavian legend Shakspeare
gathered an idea ; but I know that the idea is his, and is a
splendid and an immortal one, and that the legend is buried in
the cobwebs of centuries, and probably to all ordinary minds
not suggestive of much poetry.
We touched at Elsinore to land passengers and take others
on board bound for Sweden — for Helsinborg, the Swedish
town opposite, within half an hour's distance. At Elsinore we
took on board several passengers, evidently Swedes. These
were fair men, stalwart, polite in manner, truly the " French
of the north," with Kentish faces. While we were alongside
the quay of Elsinore, we saw two or three boats loaded with
Swedes tumble out of the port to cross the lively waters of
the Sound.
And now good-bye to the Danes.

CHAPTER III.
SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS.
And- now the Ophelia points her bowsprit to the land of Thor
and Odin, — to the great rugged peninsula, with its wild my
thology and its wild granite hills ; its old, old legends, and its
great surfaces of ancient rock. The tremendous works of the
old Norse gods rise to my mind, — the terrible labours of the
Scandinavian Hercules. Of the beautiful tree Igdrasil too I
think, with its solemn poetic interpretations, and the mist in
which it is imbedded ; and of the Norse heaven, the natural
Utopia of the old Norse life. I think too of the terrible pirates,
with their feasts of raw flesh and their draughts of blood ; and
of the mystical Odin, whose influence first gave an expression
to the rude Scandinavian heart. The learned in these mat
ters, the squabblers about the letter of the Edda, may tear
the details of this old belief of the North about as it pleases
them : I am content to think that a hero arose here in far-off
centuries ; that he represented and interpreted his time, and
that his memory was worshipped ; that he was deified. And
he was the god of his time, and of centuries after his time;
because the highest type of the nature in which he moved
and which he governed. That he gathered about him fol
lowers ; that these followers became lesser gods, is not wonder
ful ; and that these were linked with the operations of nature
and reverenced as the masters of them also, is not to me re-

48 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
markable. That this Odin's influence, and the worship of him,
spread far and wide, in fact wherever the race that first deified
him was located, is a matter of obvious sequence. He became
master of all: the fountain of all power: the earth was his mo
ther, under the mystic influence of night ; the earth, under the
glory of the sun, his mate. Matter vanquished in the body of
the giant Ymir his vassal ; and under the lowest roots of the
tree Igdrasil is Jotunhem, the home of his born enemies the
giants. The Scaldic revelation which says that Odin first taught
the art of song appears to me to be the key to the entire mytho
logy. Afterwards we trace the gradual falling off from the
brutal and vehement faith of the Berserker, when the Junglings,
without the great genius of the god or hero Odin, claimed de
scent from him. This rude mythology — with no Parthenons,
no Phidias — rough and rugged, had a strong heart in it. It
is possible to conceive Mr. Cobden's abhorrence of a tradition
wherein valour was made the passport to heaven ; where Nelson
would have stood in the doorway before the Howards and the
Wilberforces : but I am not incUned to say " brutal and be
nighted," and there end. I rather pretend to fashion, for my
own enjoyment, great souls burning amid all this violence of
old — burning with wildest and most ungovernable fires ; baring
the breast under the eye of Odin ; invoking Thor, and in the
tempest seeing his frown, — in the summer his times of good
humour ; welcoming the tenderness of Balder the sun-god,
the mild and good. Fogelberg has taken these in hand, and
with the true Norse vigour shaped the trio into enduring
marble. But the business to be done on the arrival of a traveller
outside the harbour of Helsingborg, soon drove all mytho
logical speculations from my head ; and we prepared to get

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 49
into a little boat, which came out from the harbour to meet
us. This business took some time, inasmuch as all the pas
sengers had furs of immense weight with them. We touched
Swedish ground at last ; and as a matter of course touched
a custom-house officer at the same moment. Our luggage
was taken to a little house at the end of the harbour ; and
here we once more displayed our linen for the edification of a
government. I will say, however, that the search in this in
stance was politely conducted. On emerging from the little
custom-house we were assailed by two touters, each repre
senting, as a matter of course, the best hotel in the town. In
an evil moment we chose the Hotel Mallborg ; and here I
made my bow of introduction to the social life of Sweden.
It was not a night calculated to throw the best-natured
man into ecstasies with his experience. The rain was falling
fast, the wind was high and cold ; the pavement consisted of
hills and valleys of rough stone, not in any way adapted to the
patients of Mr. Eisenberg. The hotel was a dark, rambling
house, with a staircase as wide as its best rooms. After many
ineffectual attempts to explain that we wanted dinner imme
diately, we cpntrived, or the Captain contrived rather, to make
a man fairly understand that we required three bed-rooms.
Forthwith we were ushered into apartments, furnished com
fortably, except that there were no carpets. We were closely
followed by four or five specimens of Swedish working-men.
These shewed signs, at once, of particular shrewdness. They
saw at a glance that we were foreigners ; but the Captain's
eye was upon them. They demanded payment for carrying our
luggage, I think, of three doUars, which the Captain declared
was more than their proper charge ; but which he was about to
pay, when they, seeing that a little extortion was successful
E

50 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
thought they would make the best of their opportunity, and
declared they meant three doUars banco. Now the reader
should understand that in Sweden aU transactions (save those
with government and booksellers) are conducted in doUars
rix; and when it is stated that three dollars banco are equivalent
to five dollars rix, the difference wiU be obvious. Thus these
feUows, thinking that we had not penetrated the mysteries of
banco and rix, attempted to gull us, and succeeded, after a long
discussion, maintained on both sides with more anger than
intelligence. Having suffered this Uttle initiatory swindling,
we again turned our attention to the subject of dinner. Poppy
head advanced to the girl in attendance (a fair, coarse-looking
girl, dressed like a French bonne, except that she had a ker
chief of gaudy colours and thick material tied closely round
her head, covering aU but her face, with one corner falling co-
quettishly over her forehead), and pointing his finger vigorously
to his mouth, endeavoured to convey our wants in an inteUigible
form. But at last the Captain bore up with his Swedish, and
the girl, laughing, tripped away to see about our refreshment.
We had heard various rumours about a diUgence for Gotten-
burg. One man assuredus that it started in an hour or two ;
another that we must wait two days at least for it ; a third
that it was already fully taken. The result of energetic inqui
ries was, that there was no diUgence starting that night; and
that every obstacle would be put in our way if we attempted
to communicate with the diligence proprietors. I began to
think that if this was a primitive country, abounding in aU the
rude virtues which mark a people trained in close unison with
nature, I had happened most unfortunately to alight upon one
little spot of the blessed land contaminated by more civilised
notions. Our predicament would not have been enjoyed with a

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 5 1
keener reUsh by any hotel-keeper in Dover, than it was by the
people of this Helsingborg inn. It was of great importance to
one of my companions to reach Gottenburg in two days after
our arrival at Helsingborg ; hence it became a necessity to
strike a bargain at once for a carriage to take us on our
journey without delay. We made inquiries, the result of which
was the demand of a most extortionate sum. The hotel people
were calculating too much upon our condition ; they thought
we must either pay them their price for a carriage, or remain
for some days their unwilling guests. We firmly declined, to
do either, and forthwith threw our furs about us, and went
forth in quest of more moderate dealers. We found the rival
establishment of the town ; and there, after a lengthened de
bate with the landlord (who was so afraid of his rival that
he wanted us to go to his hotel to meet his carriage), we
agreed to a bargain, by which he undertook to convey us to
Gottenburg, in two nights and two days, for about 91. sterling
in English money: — a charge which the Captain declared to be
stiU most extortionate. We also agreed that we should leave as
soon as the carriage could be got ready. Having effected this
arrangement, we returned to our hotel, to eat our first Swedish
dinner, about nine o'clock in the evening.
And here, for the first time, I was offered the schnapps gene
rally taken by all classes before dinner ; and then I first tasted
the celebrated bran-viin of the country, of which I shaU have
some observations to make in their proper place. But I should
offend the readers of popular travels, were I not to state that
the cooking of our dinner was unexceptionable, and French in
character. The Swedish beefsteak was the most pecuUar dish we
enjoyed. It appeared to me to be beef beaten to a tender state,
chopped, and spread into a circular mass: it was excellent; to be

52

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

critical, a little too fat. We had a bottle of excellent St. Julien,
some good coffee and cogniac ; and then we began to pack our
selves up for our night's journey.
When traveUing in Sweden, I found tbe packing of lug
gage a secondary matter to the packing of myself. The
weather was not cold on the night we left Helsingborg; and I
felt a kind of vague disappointment, having screwed up my
courage to endure a frightful number of degrees below freez
ing-point. Yet the Captain warned me not to forsake my furs,
and to pack myself up for regular Swedish weather. I began
and ended thus. First, I gave myself a substantial breast

work of flannel; secondly, I hugged myself in a thick pilot
waistcoat, which I buttoned up to my throat; thirdly, I drew

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 53
on a thick pilot coat; fourthly, I turned about my neck a
woollen scarf; fifthly, I drew on a second coat, as thick as
any double blanket; sixthly, I puUed on close over my head
a thick cap ; seventhly, I sat down while a sympathising
bystander hauled on a pair of snow-boots fined with fur;
eighthly, my huge fur rock, which reached to my heels, was
thrown over me, and my arms drawn into the sleeves. Thus
bandaged, I made my way by slow degrees into the carriage
waiting at the hotel doors, that dark and stormy night, to take
us on our way north. (On the opposite page is a portrait of
the author, traveUing.)
My companions followed me in a similar description of
packing. How we wedged ourselves into that carriage, with
two or three carpet-bags, and other luggage that could not
be stowed outside ; how Poppyhead's india-rubber leggings
turned up every ten minutes, to the discomfort of one of
us; how we requested one another to move a leg, or re
move that arm from those ribs; how we cursed our fate as
the carriage rolled and tumbled over horrible roads on that
dark night, — are matters of detail which I will pass over
lightly, though they did not pass Ughtly over me. But one
grievance I must insist upon inflicting on the reader. When
we had got about two miles away from the town, we discovered
that one of the front windows of the carriage was wanting,
and that the rain was pouring in upon my devoted back.
An explanation with the driver drew from him the cool reply
that the window was broken ; but that we need not mind it, it
would let in the air. This impertinent observation roused even
Poppyhead from an incipient doze to make an indignant re
mark. But the matter could not be mended on the high road ;
so we went forward, and the rain played its worst upon my

54 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
weU-covered back. The carriage was so small, that it was
impossible for all of us to stretch out our legs at once. This
inconvenience led to a solemn convention, which bound each
of us to take his turn of the convenient posture, and to yield
it up at a proper time. We occupied two hours of that dreary
night arranging and re- arranging the luggage, which kept
tumbling about the vehicle ; at the end of which time we ar
rived at the first posting station. The house was closed; not a
ight was to be seen ; the rain was pouring down heavUy. Our
sturdy coachman bayed at the door, and presently roused the
postmaster, who growled and went to the stables. After wait
ing about three-quarters of an hour, we were favoured with
two inelegant specimens of horseflesh, and a second postboy,
and went tumbling and rolUng on our weary way once more.
Every half hour we condoled with one another on the prospect
of forty-eight hours in this cramped vehicle, on these terrible
roads. Whether the country, during the first two stages of
our progress was fine or tame, I cannot say, — a waU of im
penetrable darkness was aU I saw beyond a yard or two from
the carriage-windows. We arrived at the second station about
five in the morning ; this was Engelholm, a Swedish sea
port, situate in- a bay of the Cattegat, chiefly noticeable, I be
lieve, for the obstinate defence it made to the Danes in 1673.
I believe also that it was chiefly noticeable on this occasion to
us as affording a station, a rude wood-house, where we could
unpack ourselves for a short time, and ascertain that we con
tinued to possess legs and arms. Here our coachman inti
mated that we had better remain till the dawn of day. This
proposal did not at all meet our views; and the Captain, in
energetic if not in elegant Swedish, intimated that we were
determined to proceed directly the horses had arrived. Here

SWEDEN I FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 55
I learnt my two first Swedish words, Hastaer strax!* These
syllables have been impressed upon my memory by the voice
of the Captain, in the depths of dark winter nights ! At every
station these words were shouted vehemently from our car
riage-window; in widely separate parts of the Scandinavian
peninsula, I have awoke to these euphonious syllables on many
a night; I have aroused others with them myself; I have a
theory that with these two words any foreigner may, without
inconvenience, travel even from Stockholm to Malmo.
At Engelholm we found that it was impossible to procure
horses in less time than two hours; so we entered the station
at the suggestion of the coachman, in the outer room of whicli
a woman was lying in bed with a child at her side. This
room had a counter in one corner covered with glasses and
bottles, all putting me in mind of a little French auberge.
The woman did not appear to be at all disturbed at our pre
sence, and exchanged a word indifferently with our coachman
as he conducted us into the inner room, which was especially
set apart for travellers.
Here I first noticed that pervading odour of turpentine
which fills all the country places of Sweden. At first this
odour (which comes from the fir-twigs scattered universaUy
about the floors) was extremely disagreeable ; but gradually,
(when it brought associations of a pleasant nature to my
mind, I suppose,) I rather liked it. Even the game is flavoured
with turpentine. In this traveUers' room every thing was ex-.
tremely neat and clean. There was a large earthenware stove
in the corner which reached to the ceiling, was hot from top
to basement, and diffused a pleasant heat throughout the room,
while it kept the coffee warm for any visitors who might de-
* Horses directly !

56 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
sire it. The table was covered with a snow-white cloth, and
laid out with a silver service, as good as any to be found in
ordinary middle-class establishments in England. And this I
remarked in the poorest houses — always handsome silver spoons
and coffee-pots; these are the pride of the peasantry. We,
however, resisted the fragrant fumes of the tobacco, and con
tented ourselves with the amusement of burning sugar in
brandy to make a sweet, soft, thick liqueur, which the Captain
strongly recommended to me ; and which I now strongly re
commend to experimentaUsts in such luxuries.
At about a quarter to six we started once more on our
journey, having packed ourselves a Uttle more comfortably
than at first in the carriage. The Captain produced a wax
taper, which we Ut, and held by turns. The road led pre
sently through a dark pine-forest; and here the coachman de
clared that he could not see an inch beyond the horses' heads.
The wind was roaring through the taU pines, the rain was
falling in torrents, and before us was a terribly steep hiU.
The only method we could devise was to hold the taper against
the window, so that it might throw a little Ught into the road.
The coachman seemed to be in some dark cavern near us, for
we could not see him ; and the shrill shriek of the postboy had
an awfully wild sound there.
Presently we moved forward, not even the most timid
coachman in Sweden consenting to go at less than full speed
down the steepest hiU. The motion of the carriage, the hor
rible creaking and groaning of it, and the frequent lurches of the
Captain and myself, aU combined, were sufficiently exciting to
keep even Poppyhead awake. We travelled, however, valiantly
forward through Laholm, at the mouth of the Laga, and arrived
somewhere about mid-day at Halmstadt, the seat of flourishing

SWEDEN : FIRST IMFRESSIONS.

57

wooUen manufactures, and remarkable for the abundant salmon-
fishery hereabouts of the Nissa, at the mouth of which the town
is situated. But we cared neither for the woollen manufactures
nor for the fish, considered as an article of commercial value, —
our undivided attention was given to a breakfast. A welcome

odour of turpentine soon assured us that we were in a comfort
able posting-station of the first class ; and a smiting flika* soon

* Girl.

58 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
busied herself, at our suggestion, with preparations for a huge
fire in a huge stove. The quantity of wood which an ordinary
Swedish stove wUl stow away at once is something really
astonishing. I have given a sketch of the girl at work.
The blaze of fire soon raised by the ventilator had a wonder
fully cheerful effect ; and when we threw the stove-door open,
and saw the huge red logs, with fantastic flames curling about
them, and felt the grateful heat about us, we threw off our furs
joyfully, and kicked about like young colts, to regain the per
fect use of our limbs. A wash even in a basin that held about
a pint of water, refreshed me. I cooled my hot eyes and hands,
and sat down with my companions to a breakfast of beefsteaks
and woodcock, exeeUently served. Before breakfast we had
a glass of bran-viin, and our clumps of rye-bread, aud cured
fish, and cheese, like Swedes proper. But I shall give a short
and particular chapter to the Swedes at table.
Having rested a full hour from the fatigues of the night,
we again packed ourselves, and returned to our terrible im
prisonment. We now went briskly forward for two or three
hours by daylight, and caught glimpses of Swedish landscape.
Between Halmstadt and Fulkenberg (which we reached late
at night) the country presents many of the general charac
teristics of Swedish scenery. The abundant streams of water
that dance about Sweden give every where a Ufe and cheer
fulness to its landscape ; the huge masses of granite that peep
continually out of the earth, in the midst of cultivated fields,
in peasants' cottage-gardens, give to it a peculiar aspect, not
without its beauty. Our way this day lay across foaming
rivers, rushing wildly over granite rocks, and through deep
and tangled fissures, into the Cattegat ; past streams threading
their way down sloping rocks by the roadside ; past straggling

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 59
wooden houses, all painted red (to preserve the wood) ; past
weU-cultivated lands, with huge masses of stone lying undis
turbed in the centre of them, because the farmers believe these
lumps of rocks, cast into their fields, shelter their crops from
harm — a lingering bit of the old Norse religion. Then our way
lay through hundreds of acres of barren moorland (all dreary
enough), and then over a mass of granite sprinkled with coarse
vegetation, with mosses of various hues, and coarse grass.
Almost within any English mile of our progress, we passed
foaming streams turning busy mills, and saw Swedish mUlers
pause to enjoy a leisurely stare at us. But let me say at once
the Swedes are all polite; in manners truly and thoroughly
the French of the north. No peasant passes a carriage with
out raising his hat; no gentleman fails courteously to return
the salute. I am inclined to think that in these passing
courtesies there is something honest; and that their general
observance says much in favour of the good feeling of the
nation. While we were discussing these points, night closed in,
or, as a particularly impressive Yankee expressed it, " Night
threw her mantle o'er the earth, and pinned it with a star 1"
Of the delays we experienced at the stations — sometimes of
half an hour, sometimes of two hours — I shall not give the
reader a particular account. We shouted Hastaer straxl
lustily, every five minutes; we intimated to our driver, in the
strongest language the Captain could command, our personal
opinions of him ; we talked wildly to the post-masters about
reporting them at head- quarters ; we discussed angrily the
state of affairs in the Scandinavian peninsula generally, and
the districts through which we were passing particularly; we
all found that we were bruised from head to foot ; I could not
speak above a whisper, in consequence of the airy arrangement

60

A BRAOE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

of the vehicle from the absent pane of glass ; and Poppyhead
kept quiet, thinking, if I am not mistaken, of his happy child
hood. When day dawned we all looked miserable objects, and we
found ourselves in a very dreary part of the country. All
around was moorland and rock ! Huge masses of granite rose
to an immense height ; brown, stunted vegetation filled up
every chink in them. Dreary, and sUent, and flat, the pro
spect was, without any signs of animal life. We heard no birds,
could see none; and the winds howled over all, and the sky
threatened. Thor's frown was upon the scene undoubtedly.
We had left Fulkenberg and Warburg behind us in the night,
— Warburg, with its foundation of rock and entourage of water.
And now we had halted at the station of Asa. Here we found
a number of traveUers waiting to be served with horses. We

SWEDEN: FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 61
saw at once that we should be compelled to make a consider
able stay here ; so that we had full opportunity of observing
the varieties of Swedish travellers to be met with on a Swedish
highway. First, there are the poorer class of Swedes, who are com
peUed, for the sake of economy, to travel in the peasants'
carts, and who are generaUy enveloped in very coarse furs,
their heads covered with very long-peaked caps. (See a
rough sketch of one of these on the opposite page.) Then
there are the independent class of men, who possess a carriole,
and are up to all the "dodges" of Swedish travelling: — the
mat-sack, the little luggage, the proper charges for postboys
and horses, and who generaUy have theories about getting
from one end of Sweden to the other for incredibly smaU sums
of money. This class has generaUy a moustache of prodigious
proportions. Then there are the commercial men, who travel
in carriages very like those to be hired at Hastings or Rams
gate for two shillings per hour, — vehicles of most shabby exte
rior, which appear to have seen better days, yet have never
been seen in their days of early beauty. These vehicles require
two, and sometimes three horses, and are generally occupied
by middle-aged gentlemen, who look gravely out from the
depth of handsome furs, upon the peasants gathered about the
vehicle. Lastly, there is the dashing travelUng vehicle, evi
dently the property of the evident count within ; the harness
chiefly made of leather tells you this at once. Another feature
of the scene is the money-bag. The carriole proprietor has
his slung round his neck ; the traveller in the peasant's cart
has a coarse U'nen bag ; the count has his money in the pocket
of his carriage. In matters of refreshment I noticed differences
also. The traveUer per peasant's cart depended upon the

6.2 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
" cooked milk " and plentiful eggs of the station ; the carriole
provider had some provisions with him, some brandy and
cured flesh ; the count from his mat-sac produced jerper exqui
sitely cooked, substantial bottles of sherry, and steaks ready
prepared and requiring only to be warmed, perhaps also pan
cakes rolled up, to be eaten in the fingers. Thus, to the sta
tion-master, the patron of a peasant's cart wiU generaUy, I
should say, prove the best customer.
We spurred on our driver to get horses as soon as possible,
and even to give a few skillings to the postmaster as a bribe.
These incitements so far faciUtated matters that we did not
wait more than one hour and one quarter at Asa ; and parti
cularly glad we were when the postboy appeared with his two
huge corn cakes under his arm, to be given to the horses when
half way on their road. Our way through this dreary region
was not without interest, for it called to mind the old legends
of the North: — their desolate scenery, grand from their utter
desolation. While performing this station, one of the horses
became restive, and refused stoutly to move forward. In vain
the driver whipped or coaxed the beast ; it had a spirit above a
whipping, and plunged and kicked from one side of the road
to the other ; whereupon the postboy declared that there was a
devU in the horse. The method of expulsion must have been
more amusing to us than to the animal. The boy jumped
from his seat, seized the horse's head, pulled open his mouth,
looked fiercely down his throat, and then spat down it ; which
processes, according to postboy logic or faith, had the imme
diate effect of expelling the devU. Certainly, the horse, in
some way surprised by this treatment, became presently docde,
and proceeded discreetly on his way, while the postboy glanced
round at us with an air of triumph. We were inclined to cry

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 63
out " How barbarous !" and to hug ourselves very comfortably
in our own national advancement; but suddenly remembered
that we had left a native land teeming with rampant, powerful
superstitions : — superstitions without the excuse of ignorance.
Those of the ancients formed part of their reUgion ; they con
sulted oracles as now men pray. The stars were the arbiters
of their fortunes. Natural phenomena, as lightning and hur
ricanes, were to them awful expressions of the anger of their
particular deities. They had their dies atri and their dies albi;
the former were marked down in their calendars with a black
character, to signify iU-luck ; and the latter were painted in
white characters, to denote bright and propitious days. They
followed the finger-posts of their teachers. , Faith gave dignity
to the tenets of the star-gazer and the fire-worshipper. The
priests of old taught their disciples to regard six particular
days in the year as days fraught with unusual danger to man
kind. Men were enjoined not to let blood on these black days,
nor to imbibe any liquid. It was devoutly believed that he
who ate goose on one of these black days would surely die
within, forty more, and that any " little stranger " who made
his appearance on one of these dies atri would surely die a
sinful and violent death. Men were further enjoined to let
blood from the right arm on the seventh or fourteenth of
March; from the left arm on the eleventh of April; and from
either arm on the third or sixth of May, that they might
avoid pestUential diseases. Such barbaric observances, when
brought before pious people of modern times, as iUustrations
of the moral darkness of the ancients, are considered at once
to be proof positive of the abject condition of these. The en-
Ughtened nineteenth century is forthwith trotted out to carry
the vanity of modern men. I think Poppyhead was about to

64 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
make an observation on this head, when I ventured these re
marks ; but I think I confounded him with illustrations of my
own. I instanced that excellent mother, that Peckham pattern
of the social virtues, Mrs. Flimmins, who will not undertake a
sea-voyage on a Friday, and who refused her consent to the
day appointed for her daughter's marriage because it feU on
this unlucky day of the week. She has profound pity for the
poor benighted Red Indians, who will not do certain things
while the moon presents a certain appearance, and who attach
aU kinds of sacred influences to certain poor dumb brutes ;
yet if her cat purrs more than usual, she gratefully accepts
the warning, and abandons the trip she had promised her
self on the morrow. Then, Poppyhead, my boy, there is Miss
Nippers, who subscribes largely to the fund for eradicating
superstitions from the minds of the wretched inhabitants of
Kamtschatka ! While she is calculating the advantages to be de
rived from a mission to the South- Sea Islands, to do away with
the fearful superstitious reverence in which those poor dear
islanders hold the native flea, a coal pops from the fire, and
she at once augurs, from its shape, an abundance of money,
that will enable her to set her pious undertaking in operation ;
but on no account wUl she open her list of subscriptions for
the Anti-drinking-slave-grown-sugar-in-tea Society on a Mon
day, because she has always remarked that this day is her black
day. Her poodle died on a Monday ; on a Monday she caught
that severe cold at Brighton, from the ill-effects of which she
is afraid she wUl never recover. Then there is poor Mrs.
Piptoss, whose unearthly warnings have weU-nigh spoUt aU
her furniture; for, when a relation dies, the fact is not an
nounced to her in the commonplace form of a letter, — no, an
invisible sledge-hammer falls upon the Broadwood ; an unseen

SWEDEN : FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 65
power upsets her loo-table ; all the doors of her house unani
mously blow open, and a coffin flies out of the fire into her
lap ! — yet she piously sits twice every Sunday under the Rev
erend Mr. Daniel I'-th'-lions'-den (of a very old family), and
looks severely up at the windows of her neighbours (who do
not sit under that gentleman) on her way to and fro. I might
have pursued this theme to a considerable length, and perhaps
to a satisfactory conclusion; I might have enlarged upon the
absurdity of investing snuffers with prophetic power in the
matter of husbands, and upon the improbabilities of any con
nexion existing between gifts and knots in stay-laces, — had not
the Captain drawn my attention to the condition of the roads.
I have seen considerable ruts in my time, in the by-ways of
England and France and elsewhere, but they were trivial in
dentations when compared with the chasms now before us.
The mud was soft, and the wheels were buried, sometimes for
a quarter of a mile, beyond the spokes, so that we could fancy
ourselves approaching Kensal Green rather than the station at
which we were to have our first meal that day. The horses
walked, and the carriage rolled and tumbled : — the exercise ne
cessary to keep one's seat was most exhausting. The country
was perhaps very fine hereabouts ; but we could not notice it,
the roads concentrating our exclusive attention. But we pre
sently approached the great chains of granite hills, which
warned us that we were near Gottenburg.
We crawled through this grand, this terrible region, past
peasants in indescribably intricate costumes, but always leather
aprons ; past Swedish peasant- women, who looked like English
farm-girls in French peasant dresses ; past extraordinary bun
dles of clothes in extraordinary conveyances, all merrily tra
velling along this awfully muddy road. But presently the
F

66 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
sublime aspect of this vast region of rocks fastened its impres
sive thoughts upon me. I had already seen rocky country;
but here aU was rock, — Stonehenge a thousand times magnified;
ruins of heathen temples all heaped up together 1 The masonry
work of the world shot peU-mell upon a vast plain of stone,
seemed to me hardly to approach, as an image, the grandeur
of the colossal granite masses that lay about here, surrounded
by their parental granite hills, glistening with silver-varied
rivulets, or worn by foaming, roaring torrents. The sun was
setting, and the hiUs brightened with a thousand .colours.
Every conceivable tint was here in the foreground, on the moss
or on the stone, or reflected in the dancing waters. And now
we passed the huge burnished face of a rock, with its thousand
tints upon it : — a rock that I caUed Turner's palette. Here,
exactly here, I thought, on the arrival of certain giant maids
from Jotunhem, Odin certainly hurled his terrible spear amidst
the people, which struck the fire of the first war : — for this ma
jestic granite is of an age the remoteness of which we cannot
estimate, compared with which Odin's time is the modern his
torical era. And the vault above me, let it be nothing but
Ymir's skull, as of old, — the sea, his blood ; the .earth, his body !
On all this great and suggestive expanse, this proper scene of
the Scaldic songs, this natural home of the great deities of
grand northern nature, Thor's eyebrows gather fiercely, Bal-
der's sunlight fades fast, and leaves us to be jolted horribly for
a few hours longer before we reach the suburbs of Gottenburg.
Poppyhead was in a terrible condition; the Captain was voluble
still, on the internal.administration of Swedish affairs ; and I was
silent on aU subjects save those of bathing and supping, when
the driver threw the reins over the horses' backs, took off his
huge cap, and wiped his manly brows before the Gotha KeUare..

CHAPTER IV.
THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH.
In 1834 Mr. Samuel Laing described Gottenburg in these
words : " Gottenburg resembles some of the old decayed towns
of Holland, with its wide streets of good houses, canals in the
middle of the streets, and nothing stirring either in the streets
or in the canals. Few places have suffered greater vicissi
tudes. It had a flourishing herring-fishery ; but the fish dis
appeared from the Skaggerack, and never returned. It had
an East India trade, which failed ; and during the last war, it
had a third period of prosperity, which vanished with the re
turn of peace."* This was perhaps a true picture in 1834;
but it was ludicrously false in 1852. Gustavus Adolphns, the
great founder of the city, prophesied that it would presently
be the great centre of Scandinavian commerce ; now that pro
phecy is fulfilled. Wbether Gottenburg may rank with cer
tain commercial ports or not, is a question open to discussion :
but that it is the Liverpool of the Scandinavian peninsula even
now, and that its streets .are thronged daily with active mer
chants ; that its port is filled with vessels ; and that its com
mercial men are rising daily in the estimation of the mer
chants of Europe, — are points admitted in every market-place.
The rapidity with which its commerce is increasing may be
* Journal of a Residence in Norway during the years 1834, 1835, and
1836. By Samuel Laing, Esq. The Traveller's Library. 1852.

68 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
shown by the returns of its exportations to England. For
example, in 1850, 12,000 tons of wood left this port for Eng
land ; in the following year, 27,000 tons were consigned to the
same destination. In 1850, England imported from Sweden
no less than 29,500 tons of iron, and nearly all the oats raised
in the peninsula. In truth, the activity apparent in every
part of the city, when, on the morning after my arrival, I
strolled down its handsome streets, under cloudless heavens,
and with the invigorating influence of a sharp, dry frost, was
startling. Fine ships lay alongside the quays; English sailors
were stroUing about ; the Swedish guards (tall, handsomely
equipped troops) were marching to and fro ; serious men were
tripping hastily from office to office ; and in the centre of the
broadest street were two omnibuses, the appearance of which
carried one mentally to Paddington. A flourish on the horn,
in which the conductors indulged at starting, destroyed the
Ulusion. Gottenburg may be described in a few words, as a city
consisting chiefly of three or four fine wide streets intersecting
one another at right angles : each street ornamented with
a canal running through its central space, flanked on either
bank by fine rows of trees. When I write broad streets, I
mean thoroughfares considerably wider than the Parisian boule
vards. The houses in the principal thoroughfares are high and
substantial, not remarkable for any architectural beauties, yet
offering soUd comfortable homes to business men. TKeir
exterior and interior closely resemble large French houses.
Here is the same huge gateway; the same division of the pre
mises into floors for separate families ; the same large rooms
or galleries; the same snug ante-chambers, sacred often to
scandal. The rooms are not crammed with furniture ; pain-

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 69
iid displays of bad taste, in the shape of trashy prints and bad
books well bound, cannot be observed ; the space is free ; the
general effect elegant. In the public rooms of Gottenburg I
noticed the same simplicity. For instance, at the fashionable
dining-place, the Prince Carl, the rooms were plainly fur
nished, yet there was taste in the arrangement — something
that I found a great relief after the overdone upholstery of
fashionable clubs and modern dining-places. A fine porphyry
table conveniently placed, a glass hung exaetly in its proper
position, curtains to break the harsh Unes of the windows
without darkening the rooms, — these were the points of
arrangement. At the Gotha Kellare the same taste was ob
servable, and I noticed it subsequently in exceUently appointed
establishments. The Swedes laugh at us for invariably plant
ing a table of portentous dimensions in the centre of our
rooms. We spent the day after our arrival in Gottenburg in stroll
ing about the town, in watching the shifting phases' of its
daUy operations. In the evening, to my particular astonish
ment, the streets were brilliantly lighted with gas ; an advance
which Stockholm has not yet made in modern improvements,
but is now on the point of making.
Under a full moon, on a cloudless night, Gottenburg, from
one of its bridges, had a truly Venetian effect; nothing was
wanting, save the gondolas softly stealing about, and the dark
Italians standing in bold relief from the white houses. The
sounds of music drew a party of us over the bridge to the cafe at
the corner of the square where the Townhall and the Barracks
are situated. Here we found the young men of the town con
gregated in considerable force, drinking Swedish punch, from
diminutive tumblers, and smoking, and listening to some of

70

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

BeUman's popular songs, sung by three Danish women and a
man, planted in a corner of one of the rooms; the ladies orna
mented with slouched hats, surmounted by prodigious feathers.
These minstrels had only just arrived in the town, and appeared
to be very welcome. In addition to Bellman's songs (which the
young Swedes applauded immensely, and laughed at immode
rately), the ladies chanted one or two of the Danish war-songs
which came up during the last Holstein struggle. We sipped
some Swedish punch (which is sweet and thick, and, I should
say, unpleasant to contemplate on the morrow morning, if freely
taken overnight), heard one or two songs, and left with the
reflection that the scene was very French, and that the Swedish
gentlemen, with their fair hair and pale blue eyes, looked
strange in Parisian costume. This cafe, like all public and

private establishments in Sweden, was entered through a coat
and boot room, where- the immense furs and watermen's boots
of a Swedish visitor must be deposited. These ante-rooms in

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 71
a private house on the evening of a party present a most ex
traordinary appearance. Fur-boots of every shape and size,
some reaching to the ankles, others te> the knees ; huge coats
with hoods, and furs of all colours and patterns ; and servants
waiting with lanterns to see their masters and mistresses home.
The conveniences and inconveniences of a Swedish hotel
are not remarkable : those of the Gotha Kellare were not
so. The house was a huge square house, consisting of two
floors of long gaUeries, with rooms on one side of them. The
general staircase was paved like our streets, but the rooms
were comfortable, and remarkably clean. Herein were Uttle
Norman beds, Uke those we first saw at Kiel, with the water-
bottle filled with pure spring water, placed upon a little square
table near them. I never saw a Swedish bed-room without
seeing a bottle of water and a tumbler conveniently placed near
the head of the bed. There are double windows to all rooms,
even in the poorest houses, with wool, in fantastic patterns,
sometimes stuffed between the panes. I noticed too, that many
of the windows are not made to open ; and I was told that the
Swedes very seldom, even in the height of summer, throw open
their casements and let in the pure warm air. In Stockholm,
whenever a Swede, as he passes along the street, sees an open
window, he says, " Certainly an Englishman lives there."
The Gotha Kellare had, however, one particularly national
inconvenience, — a want of bells ; so that when I wanted hot
water or breakfast, it was necessary for me to leave my room,
walk along the cold gaUery to the head of a staircase, and
there to pull a huge bell swung over the banisters. Having
gone thu3 far, I had to direct my attention to a dial placed
above, round which the numbers of the rooms in the gallery
were painted, and to point the hand fastened to the dial to my

72 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
number. Thus, it was an excellent practical joke for the
sprightly visitors, to wait till an unfortunate man had rung the
beU and had turned the hand to his number, to rush out, after
he "had returned to his apartment, and before the flika made
her appearance, to change the position of the hand.
One fact I ascertained for a certainty, and I make a pre
sent of it to Dr. Latham, or any ethnological inquirer who
may choose to use it, — it is, that the modern Scandinavians
snore. Now I had heard some very creditable performances of
this nature on my way to Gottenburg ; but the Swede who slept
in the room next to mine made Poppyhead's accomplishment
appear contemptible. I should not like (lest some of the gen
tleman's family chance to glance at this page) to recite for
public gratification the severe criticisms, which, in the dead
hours of the night, I frequently pronounced on this Swede's
unhappy head; I will say, that all I wish my worst enemy is,
that some night, when he has been harassed throughout the
day, and is thoroughly exhausted with physical fatigue, fate
may so dexterously arrange human vengeance, as to deposit
him next my unwelcome neighbour of Gottenburg.
We expected to find a terribly low thermometer here, in
Gottenburg, at the end of November; but to the secret dis
appointment of aU of us (for it destroyed the romance of the
stories to be told on our return), the frost had not laid violent
hands on the nose of a single inhabitant. Had kind Fate frozen
a guard on the market-place, it would have been something !
But no, the weather closely resembled London weather in No
vember, except in the matter of fogs ; yet the Swedes are won
derfully provided against cold, and I stick to my furs like a
Laplander. This mildness, I was told by a neighbour at a
private dinner-party, is not unusual in Gottenburg in Novem-

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 73
ber, but there had been a terrible frost, and the canals had
been as solid as the rocks upon which the town is built.
By the way, I might write much about this same dinner,
were I altogether at my ease on the subject; for of late years,
a few people from my " great and glorious " country appear to
have visited this part of the world with a determination to get
as many gratuitous dinners, and as many pert descriptions
thereof as possible, out of the hospitable Swedes. As I have
remarked already, I am not, therefore, altogether at my ease
on this subject. I should Uke to convey to Englishmen some
correct impressions of the social observances here, but I trem
ble to think that a picture designed to present general charac
teristics should pass for individual portraiture. I am not at
all inclined to herd with those who eat a man's dinner, that
they may study the contour of his head, take an inventory of
his furniture, and remark upon his wife. I will try to catch
the general points of a Swedish dinner-party, without faUing
into personality. In the first place, then, I found the Swedish
people essentially a ceremonious people. If a Frenchman, on
a moderate calculation, removes his hat twenty times in the
course' of a morning walk, a Swede lifts his thirty times. In
a room the bowing is incessant. The men bowed to one ano
ther as we bow to ladies; even intimate friends appeared to
accost and take leave of one another with the nicest formaUty.
This was aU very French ; but then the people looked EngUsh.
Yet, I should add, in these formaUties there was nothing re
strained, nothing, after a time, freezing ; but it was necessary
to have experience, and the experience was troublesome in the
getting. You are about to address a lady. Say to her :
"Have you heard Normani, at Stockholm, in the Pro-

'74, A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
phete ?" and you will commit a grave error. The young lady
will perhaps describe you to her friends as an impudently
famiUar fellow. The form should have been :
" Has Mademoiselle  heard Normani ?"
This form of address is exacted not only by the Swedish
ladies, but is observed also among Swedish gentlemen.
Dinner in Sweden is usually eaten at two o'clock. Punc
tual to the hour the guests make their appearance and their
bow to their host and hostess. Soon afterwards, the ladies
proceed to the dining-room to- the snapps ; but very few take
it ; and the gentlemen quickly follow, and do take the snapps.
The party is then ushered to the table. Of Swedish dinners
I hope to write something in a distinct and formal chapter :
the subject is too grave to be passed over as an incident in
a general description. The ghost of Vatel, the shade of Brillat
de Savarin would haunt me, were I to pass by the kitchens
of Scandinavia with a few flippant sentences.
But of people gathered about a dinner-table I may here
write a few more notes. They are without restraint, and
very conversational. Their after-dinner speeches (when they
make them) are generally, I think, of the same butter-aU-
round description as those indulged in by the private curses
of English society. The Swedes appeared to think with us
that they were all "jolly good fellows," after a second bottle of
wine, and that they lived only to increase their intense mutual
admiration. After dinner, in England, each individual toasted
is a happy illustration of every cardinal virtue : he is a model
father, a model friend, a model brother — in short, a model
man. He is Horace Mayhew's volume of model men roUed
into one splendid organisation. Well, this splendid being
struts about Sweden also every evening, but dissolves every

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 75)
morning, as with us, when the sun and headaches come.
There is a marked difference, however, between the EngUsh
after-dinner orator and his Swedish brother. The English
man about to pronounce or rather splutter a panegyric, rises,
hooks his left thumb in the arm-hole of his waistcoat, and with
an upraised right hand, opens fire upon the enemy. As he
proceeds to tack wings to the back of his inestimable friend
Tomkins, he warms sensibly ; he raps the table, he spreads out
his arms, his voice runs discordantly up and down the scale,
and he concludes with a storm'. During this exhibition the
bashful Tomkins busies himself with his watchkey. The
Swedish orator does not rise from his seat. He speaks in so
low a tone of voice, that at first you pay no attention, thinking
he is addressing his neighbour only. The voice throughout
preserves an even intonation ; there is no perceptible rise or
fall of passion in it, and the words are given in spasmodic
threes and fours, thus :
"I am anxious — that we should — do aU honour — to the
toast — -which has been — intrusted to my care. Herr G — has
been — for many years — engaged — always — in the undertak
ing — which has now — been brought — to — a very successful
issue." These words are pronounced with sharp, short pauses ;
the voice falling to a whisper at the end of each sentence. The
guests are silent throughout. No table-rapping here ; no
hear, hears ! no tremendous cheering : all is quiet and cere
monious. But Herr G. does not act like Tomkins. This
gentleman, the instant his name is mentioned by his pane
gyrist, rises, and continues standing till the company have
drunk the toast proposed in his honour.
When the toasts are over, the dinner is brought to a con
clusion by a movement on the part of the host and hostess.

76 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
Suddenly the guests aU stand up, and retreat from the table to
an adjoining room, where coffee is immediately served ; after
which the guests bow, about seven o'clock, to the host and
hostess, and retire, to return (if they please) in the course of
the evening. To praise the manners of the friends I met would be but
a poor compUment. Inclined generally to agree with Theo
dore Parker, that in these days " friendship is deemed too
romantic for a trading town," I halted here in my estimate,
and said to myself: AU is not yet levelled in this place to a
debtor-and-creditor account; not here yet do men all feel in
clined to keep their accounts with heaven by double entry.
There is stUl a Uttle honest feeling left, something of the reU
gion of the heart, that has but the fraUest connexion with the
estabUshed forms of religion, something bound to the spirit of
Christianity rather than to its hired professors and selfish in
terpreters. What is the duty of a good Christian ? To pay
his church-rates punctually, says the pluraUst parson ; to have
a kindly shake of the hand and an open heart for all his neigh
bours, says a sadly ignorant man, who has never read the Fa
thers, knows nothing of Latin, it may be signs his name with
a cross — a signature, by the way, that, when contrasted with
the delicate wave of the professor's ancient name, aptly typi
fies all the differences that lie between the two. On the one
hand, erudition, all the history of religion, the ready arguments
in support of the fashionable formula; on the other, noble
affections, loving all things, not -with a view to salvation, and
therefore as a matter of spiritual economy, -but for the irresis
tible pleasure of loving ; because love possesses every pore,
breathes in every breath, and is full of hearty thanks to the
Great Parent ; reUgion as Kingsley preaches it, rather than

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 77
as some of the bishops fatten upon it. Yet even here, where'
these thoughts of serious matters that are passing before all of
us daily, occupied me, I heard that persecution in religious
matters, in this country of Gustavus Adolphus, among this
people, whose ancestors feU like heroes for religious emancipa
tion, was crueUy practised. Ay, the " enlightened Protestant"
cuffing and binding the " bigoted Catholic ;" the followers
of Luther imitating the cruelties from which he freed them.1
Well might this strange turn in recent history attract the at
tention of the House of Commons ; well might living readers
be startled at tbe revelations in Mr. Gordon's dispatches from
Stockholm. The retort on the part of a Catholic member, that
the persecutions of Catholics by Protestants were calmly al
lowed by English ministers, while they were glad to earn
popularity by writing pompous dispatches when Protestants
were in any way persecuted by Catholics, was severe, because
it was just. " O bigotry ! Devil who turnest God's love into
man's curse ! are not human hearts hard and blind enough
of themselves, without thy cursed help ?"*
But, as I have already written, there was to me, an utter
stranger here, a heartiness about the men with whom I was
brought in contact — a sincerity and a grace, which opened my
heart towards them. I had been told that, the Swedes gene
rally were mean and treacherous. I found them, to a stranger
from whom they had to expect no benefit, gentle, full of atten
tion, and magnificently hospitable. But of the Swedes as a
nation I shall venture to write more at length presently. For
the present I must return to my business in Gottenburg.
I attended here the first public meeting on the subject
* Yeast : a Frollem. By Charles Kingsley, Jun., Eector of Eversley.

78 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
of a railway ever held in Sweden. In the history of a coun
try Uke this, such a day was not an unimportant one ; and
as witnessed by an Englishman, it was a curious scene. The
cool, business-like bearing of the EngUsh promoters, contrasted
oddly with the excited aspect of their Swedish co-operators.
To one gentleman, however, in particular that second day of
November was a day of triumph. The years during which,
through good and evil report, in the face of obstacles that
would have daunted most men, the Count Adolphe Rosen en
deavoured to secure for his country the great modern advan
tage with which most foreign states had for a long time been
familiar, viz. that of steam locomotion ; I say, the years spent
in this single endeavour, spent in difficulty, and regardless of
the fierce opposition of the .House of Peasants, who voted al
most to a man against the introduction of any railway into the
country, were nobly spent, and were on this day crowned with
triumphant success. Therefore to the Count this was a day
of particular rejoicing — one which closed the long period of
his struggle, and began his time of tranquil self-congratulation.
The meeting was held at the Townhall, and was attended '
by about thirty of the first class Gottenburg merchants. These
were regarded by the " canal party"* as traitors to their
country ; by these it was vehemently asserted that railways
would ruin the country (as they were to have ruined England
and all other countries into which they have been introduced).
To all the Swedes present the day was one of great excite
ment. The plans were examined, Count Rosen was voted to
the chair, the royal charter was read, and mutual compliments
were exchanged. One director informed me, in confidence,
* The proprietors, and friends of proprietors, of shares in the Gotha
canal.

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 79
that his wife had aUowed him to join the board, on the strict
understanding that he would never put his foot into a railway
train when the line was completed. Strange enough did it
seem to me (who had lately travelled from London to Cologne
in twenty-four hours), to hear men talking of a raUway al
most as we talk of balloon navigation.* Strange, as we stood
there, looking at the ships saiUng along the broad street
before us !
I wandered in company with the Captain to that part of
the town where the seafaring people Uve. Here, on one
side of the street, were houses ; on the other, tumbled masses
of rock ! The houses were of wood, in some instances fan
tastically painted ; every where the double windows. We
ascended .the heights, and obtained a fine view of the town,-
encompassed by its granite hiUs, with water flowing in intri
cate patterns on the map ; the ships rocking lazdy in the
harbour, and the steeple of the highest church (strangely mo
delled) towering beyond the surrounding buildings : on the
opposite hiU a telegraph that reminded us of the times in Eng
land when electricity was only used to terrify women at the
Polytechnic, for one shilling. We descended from our pleasant
elevation very cautiously. The way was steep and rocky, and
sheets of ice fiUed up every hoUow.
We began to hope that in a day or two the sledges would
be out, and the merry bells of the horses heard along tlie spark-
Ung roads of snow. And with this prospect (always remem
bering that we had the Hamburger's heaviest furs with us)
we walked back through the town about two o'clock. We re-
* The English gentlemen present at the above meeting were, Sir John
Eennie (who is constructing the first -Swedish railway nvw) and Mr. Charles
Henry Edmonds.

80 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
paired to a money-changer's to get more Swedish money for
our English gold ; but found the offices closed, and learned that
the Swedish merchants suspend business for about two or three
hours in the height of the day, that they may dine comfort
ably ; and that they return to their offices for about an hour's
leisurely attention to affairs, after dinner. I can imagine the
disgust with which your regular ten-hours-a-day English mer
chant (who takes a chop at his desk) would hear of these pro
ceedings. There are many Scotchmen flourishing at Gotten
burg, who, with " precocious sagacity, left their native country
at an early age : " * I should say that they do not lose two or
three hours in the day over the dinner-table.
It was late in the afternoon when we returned to the mer
chant's counting-house to change our money, and receive, in
return for bright English sovereigns, bundles of soiled paper ;
losing, by exchanging 40Z., the sum of 11. ;• — in other words,
paying sixpence in the pound for the accommodation! And
this monstrous price was taken within three days' journey of
HuU! Then we really 'and truly blessed the promoters of the
railway that was to introduce English engineers, English busi
ness, English activity, into the country, to connect the Wenern
Lake with the Wettern, and so make the journey from London
to Stockholm an easy holiday trip, affording to miners a cheap
highway to the markets of the world, for their minerals. There
fore it will bring EngUshmen and Swedes into constant commu
nication ; it will tempt the Fudge families, who have exhausted
Paris and the Rhine, to the Falls of TroUhaettar and to Stock
holm ; it will deposit " Our own Correspondents" at Orebro ;
it will carry brave sportsmen to brave sport; and so, when the
frost thaws next year, I hope to give three hearty cheers as Sir
* Biscuits and Grog. By James Hannay, Esq. R.N.

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 81
John Rennie marshals his men for the work to be done in two
summers between Koping and Hult. Presently, I beUeve and
hope, Englishmen will be able to change British money through
out Sweden, her Majesty's portrait (on gold) being as familiar
to aU people in DalecarUa as in Sussex or Kent. I should
have written Wiltshire, but that in this part of magnificent
fatherland it takes a labourer three weeks' hard work to clasp
his sovereign's portrait in gold.
My last day in Gottenburg was spent . in desultory ramb
ling: gazing at the foaming miU- stream close to the hotel;
watching the troops at the guard-house; inspecting the fine
site where the statue of the great founder of the city is to stand;
leaving cards with the friends who had welcomed me ; examin
ing the light Uterature of Sweden at a bookseUer's (illustrated
with jocose drawings of ladies and gentlemen falling out of
sledges, and other local suggestions) ; laying in a huge bag
ful of copper skUUngs for the post-boys we should have to fee
on our road to Orebro ; and personally inquiring into the exact
quantity of food and wine, of our own choosing, to be stowed
away in the carriage : — we had had experience enough of the
romance of limited refreshment, and were determined, during
the remainder of our journey, to try the gross materiaUsm of
abundant eating and drinking.
On the eve of our departure we gathered a pleasant party
in our sitting-room, the conviviafity of which was, I fear, a little
saddened by the fact, that we could not possibly make our flika,
Catherina, understand the difference between rum and brandy.
Now, some of the company objected decidedly to rum ; there
fore Catherina's obstinacy was particularly trying. I held up
the bottle of rum before her astonished eyes, and shouting,
u Inter dat!" thrust it back into her hands, roaring vehement-
G

82 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
ly, " Cognac !" But all to no purpose: she didn't understand
Herrer. Even the Swedes present could not make her compre
hend our meaning; so those who could manage the rum par
took of it ; those who could not manage it had punch ! And
then we began a social evening — we, Englishmen and Swedes.
Had you seen us then, you would have said, Here is a party of
fellows who knew one another intimately years ago, and have
just met again to renew the warmth of their old friendship, —
to kindle it anew with cheerful potations, and temper and
soothe it with Raleigh's immortal plant! Whereas we were
friends aU of a week's standing, yet we were friends ; and this,
I take it, says something for the Swedes. Graceful and warm
hearted and accomplished I found them aU. Knowing more
than many scented pedants from Oxford or Cambridge, who
strut about the Temple, and mouthing Latin scraps, look down
upon pure English, — they had all the modesty of true scholars.
Not one of them said " Tempus fugit" when he found that the
hours had stolen a march upon him, and not one of them was
ignorant of Latin. But it is not of their accomplishments I
wish to say much ; I would rather dwell upon their quaUties as
friends and companions, for on these qualities I can dweU with
pleasure. Their abundant animal spirits, their keen sense of
humour, their kindly interpretation of all events, both private
and public, are conspicuous characteristics I noted with delight.
We, Englishmen, amused them with stories of the wonders of
raUways ; they, Swedes, had twenty tales to teU of their merry
sledges and harmless tumbles therefrom, of the wolves they had
occasionaUy seen, of friends of theirs who had shot bears, and
of the frozen lakes they had crossed behind Norwegian horses
with wonderful speed. Of course, one of the certain questions
put to a Swede by any Englishman is, whether they skate. To

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 83
this question every EngUshman receives with surprise a reply
in the negative ; for the truth is, the Swedes do not generaUy
skate, even in a country where the ice throughout whole months
of the year would bear loaded wagons. They sledge inces
santly, they shoot ; but the very amusement for the gratifica
tion of which their climate is peculiarly adapted they do not
indulge in.
Towards the close of the evening the Captain and a Swedish
gentleman (Herr M  ), with whom we were going to travel
on the foUowing day, opened a conversation on the relative
merits of the armies of Europe. Herr M  had been an offi
cer in the Swedish service, and could speak therefore with some
confidence on the miUtary quaUties and accomplishments of his
countrymen ; that is to say, of his adopted countrymen, for
Herr M  was by descent a Scotchman — a member now of
the Swedish house of nobles, yet justly proud of his extrac
tion. It was curious that, as the Captain and Herr M 
talked, they gradually discovered that they were related to one
another, representing severed branches of one common family.
Herr M  , although he had never been in Scotland, was as
familiar with every corner of it, talked in glowing words of the
beauty of the Highlands, and knew the stories of all the clans.
He spoke English also exceUently, and was weU grounded in
our Uteratm-e. Altogether, this gentleman — a proprietor of
vast estates in the central part of Sweden, and living thereon,
with rare visits to Stockholm, Gottenburg, or Orebro, apart
from the great struggles, and progresses, and discoveries of this
rattling, go-ahead modern life — was as conversant with the
politics of the Chronicle or the Times as the most " constant
reader" in London could be, and had even a knowledge of the
lesser English journals. But the Captain soon drew him from

84 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
a conversation on these points to that subject in which he felt
a particular interest; and then a regular military conversation
was opened.
I heard how a certain lord could no more manoeuvre his
cavalry regiment than a child ; how he was told by his supe
rior officer that the evolutions of the regiment in question would
disgrace a d — d yeomanry troop ; how a refusal to go partners
with a horse-racing colonel may injure a lieutenant's prospects
in life; and how fresh cornets are subjected to practical jokes
of the most boyish character. These revelations of British ser
vice (which are not revelations to EngUshmen) highly delighted
the Swedish portion of the party ; and then we heard something
of the Swedish service. Its pay, I remember, was stated to be
very small. I also remember that we were informed that only
four regiments are kept in active service throughout the king
of Sweden's dominions, the rest of the army being located on
crown-lands, and pursuing the arts of peaceful Ufe, on condi
tion of military service when required, and subject to periodical
drilling. Of the success of this system — established thoroughly,
if I am not mistaken, by Gustavus Adolphus — I heard glowing
accounts. The Peace Society will be sorry to learn that an
English mUitary authority, who passed through Stockholm
lately, after having made the tour of Europe to witness the
evolutions of the troops of the various states, declared that the
Swedish guards were the best-appointed and the best-drilled
regiment, without any exception, that he had seen.
The Swedes generaUy keep good hours. They are up early
in the morning, and in bed generally before midnight. On
this evening, although the general conviviality sorely tempted
many of us to break through the good rule of early rest and
early work, the knowledge that on the morrow three of us must

THE COMMERCIAL CAPITAL OF THE NORTH. 85
go away on our road to Orebro, determined at last an early
separation. We were aU to meet again in a few weeks at
Stockholm, and we promised ourselves some Uvely entertain
ments then. And so I took my leave of Gottenburg.
The impression of this town conveyed by Mr. Laing's book
is, I must, in justice to the Swedes, repeat, totaUy erroneous. It
is not a duU town. Its trade is increasing with marveUous
rapidity ; it is growing in size most wonderfully ; i,t is the part
of Sweden where all modern improvements find a ready accept
ance. Here gas was first introduced, and here English mer
chants have settled and made considerable fortunes. The town
is represented in the House of Burghers by one of the most
important merchants of the city, Herr  Wrern, jun., a gen
tleman who appears at a very early age to have linked himself
prominently with the liberal party in the country — to be a
stanch advocate of free-trade in a country eminently protec
tionist; and the stern defender of the rafiway, that had its
thousands of inveterate opponents in his native town as well
as in every part of his country. This enUghtened zeal has
met with its proper reward from the king, who has appointed
Herr Woern the president of the raUway company.
And so good night to the worthy citizens of Gottenburg !
May timber rise in their dreams, and every thing be at a pre
mium with them! They may weU be savage with Mr. Laing,
who has misrepresented them, republishing his misrepresenta
tions of 1834 in 1852. Of these I may have something to re
mark in a future page. On the commerce of Sweden I may
here touch in a separate chapter, the facts of which have been
gleaned from the Baron Knut Sonde's book, which contains
the last pubUshed official statements. Tables of Swedish ex
ports and imports will be found in an Appendix.

CHAPTER V.
SWEDISH COMMERCE.
The vast peninsula of Sweden and Norway, extending over
more than 13,000 square geographical leagues, contains
scarcely 5,000,000 inhabitants. Sweden comprises the south
ern and eastern part, which is the best cultivated, the most
fertile, and the most peopled : on a surface of 3868 square
mUes of the country (8,000 geographical leagues), within the
55° and 69° of latitude, there are considered to be 3,500,000
inhabitants. Its shore, washed by the Baltic, rises Uttle more
than 300 feet above the level of the sea, upon a breadth of
12 or 15 leagues, covered with meadows and fields variously
cultivated. Beyond this zone the land rises towards the interior to the
Koelen chain of mountains — the natural frontier of Sweden
and Norway. Some branches of these mountains extend to
wards the northern provinces of Jemland, Heridalie (Herjeda-
len), and of Kopparberg ; whUe others abut on the great lakes
of Wenern, Wettern, Hjelmarn, and Maelar. Their least
height is from 3000 to 4000 feet above the level of the sea;
but in Laponia we find Sulitelma rising to 6342 feet; in Heri
dalie, Sylfjell to 5920 feet ; and in Jemland, Areskutan to
4919 feet. In the centre of Sweden there are no mountains-
only chains of hills, such as the Halandus and the KuUen,

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 87
from 3000 to 4000 feet high ; and some peaks here and there
in the middle of great plains (as Taberg, near Ivenkoping, in
Smaland, and KinnekuUe in Westrogoth), which attain the
height of 900 feet.
Although the mountains of Sweden do not reach the elevaj
tion of those of Norway, and there are immense plains, the
country ought not to be considered fiat, for scarcely a third
of the surface is situated below a level of 300 feet. The rest
is thus divided: 1488 mUes above 800 feet, and 329 miles
above 2000 feet. In these last there are 16 nnles to be found
beyond tbe fimit of perpetual snow. This Umit is at the ele
vation of 5800 feet at 60°; 5600 feet at 61°; and 3600 feet at
69°, the most northerly point of Sweden.
These mountains are chiefly composed of granite; marble,
and gneiss. Sweden possesses few of those beds of more recent
formation, such as mines, which are the source of riches of
other nations. For compensation, the formation of chalk is
found almost every where ; and even the isles of Gothland and
Oeland rest whoUy upon a surface of Ume, which contributes
not a little to their great fertility.
But that which particularly attracts the attention is the
immense quantity of the most maUeable and ductile iron with
which nature has endowed the mountains of Sweden. From
Laponia to Scania it is to be found nearly every where ; and
the single mount GeUivare, in Laponia, 1800 feet high, is
wholly formed of an ore containing from 70 to 80 per cent of
the best iron, which, worked with energy and with sufficient
capital, could furnish the whole world with this metal. In
addition to iron, there are copper, cobalt, lead, sulphur, vi
triol, zinc, nickel, sUver, and even a little gold. Up to the

88 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
present period the only mine they have met with is in Sca
nia, and that in small quantities.
The numerous rivers have their sources in the mountains,
and precipitating themselves into the vaUeys of Sweden, fall
into the Baltic ; others, following a more capricious direc
tion, lose themselves in the North Sea. Of this number is the
Gotha (Gfiethaelf), which rises in Norway under the name of
Clarelf, crosses the lake Faemund and the province Hedemark,
then the lake Wenern, whence it goes by the name of Gotha,
which it keeps tiU it falls into the sea. The vaUeys which
these rivers water are generaUy of great extent, and inter
spersed with little lakes, peat-holes (bogs), and marshes, which
are being drained for the purposes of agriculture. It is calcu
lated that there are in Sweden 8,000,000 turmland, or nearly
4,000,000 hectares,* of these peat-holes, marshes, and swamps,
of which 1,000,000 hectares, or 2,468,750 acres, in the south
ern part, could be redeemed by clearing, or a grubbing up of
the soil, and converted into fertile fields, fat pasturage, and
rich forests.
These rivers are generaUy navigable only for short dis
tances ; but this inconvenience is compensated by the immense
lakes which the .nation has Unked together, at enormous sacri
fices, by magnificent canals. All traveUers must admire the
Trollhatter canal, with its fom-teen sliuces or dams, cut out of
the rock, to a height of 114 feet. This canal unites the At
lantic with the lake Wenern — a body of water covering 48
square miles. The Gotha canal, with its fifty-eight sluices
joins the Wenern to the Wettern, the surface of which is -27
* Or 9,875,000 acres.

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 89
square miles ; then, joining the lakes Boren, Boxen, and Asp-
lonzen, achieves the junction of the North Sea with the
Baltic. Numerous other canals (such as those of Waeddoc, Akers,
Stroemsholm, Carlstad, Soedertelje, which unites the lake Mae
lar to the Baltic, and Hjelmar, which joins the lake of this
name with the Maelar,) bear witness to the great works exe
cuted by the nation, and the immense sacrifices which she has
imposed upon herself to facilitate the communications of the
interior of the country. Yes, sacrifices ; for all simUar stu
pendous undertakings have been accompUshed in the midst of
difficulties without number ; and almost insurmountable for
a state which, to maintain the enviable position of being a
country without debt, has always hesitated to contract a na
tional loan.
The development of every kind of industry, the increase of
all productions, have foUowed close upon the opening of the
lines of steam-packets ; and these happy results have encou
raged those who represent the people to make new efforts to
increase stiU more the faciUty of communications, by laying
down tram-roads throughout the country. A company which
undertook to join the ocean to the Baltic, by means of a rail
way between the lakes Wenern and Maelar, has been gua
ranteed by the state, for forty years, the interest, at the rate of
5 per cent, on the capital expended on this work. The great
wealth in timber and metals wiU thus, without much expendi
ture for carriage, be thrown advantageously into foreign mar
kets. Numerous other schemes are under consideration, and
the present Diet will be caUed upon to give serious attention
to the propositions of various EngUsh capitalists.

90 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
One of the natural consequences of the large extent of
country — which, from its northern boundary, bordered by Nor
way and Russia, to its southern point, washed by the Sound,
is in extent no less than 212 leagues (geographical) — is a
variety of climate and vegetation. Thus Scania, between the
55° and 56° of latitude, has a mean temperature of 8°; whUe
the isle of Gothland, stUl more favoured, enjoys a mean tem
perature of 8° 66'.*
In these two localities, the mulberry, chestnut, and walnut
trees shoot in the open ground ; and the vine even, planted en
espalier, yields ripe fruit; while at Stockholm, at 59°, the mean
temperature falls nearly to + 5° 66', and the beech-tree can no
longer bear the inclemency of the winter. Thus, whUe the in
terior of Sweden produces grain in quantities exceeding the
consumption, the north, beyond the town of Gefle (61° lat.),
yields hardly sufficient to reward the cultivator, who often
sees the result of a laborious year's work destroyed in a day,
in an hour even, by a frost or a tempest. Wheat and hops
only ripen at 62°; the cherry-tree produces no fruit at 63°;
and oats are not grown beyond 64°. Rye and barley alone
arrive at maturity at the northern limits of Sweden ; and yet
nature must be thanked for her vigour in these regions, ad
vancing without transition from winter to summer.
At Stockholm, at 59°, the thaw commences towards the
end of April ; and in a few days the sun produces, as by en
chantment, both verdure and flowers. As we approach the
northern regions, this phenomenon becomes more remarkable ;
there, during the summer solstice, there is, so to speak, no
* Mean temperature of Berlin, +8° 15'; Copenhagen, +7° 92'; and
Paris, +10° 34'.

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 91
night ; the earth, heated for so many hours by the burning
rays of the sun, has not time to lose any of the warmth ; vege
tation is as in a hot-house, and barley is in full ear, generally,
six or seven weeks after sowing.
At Torneo, the longest day is 21 hr. 1' 2", and the shortest
2 hr. 1' 2" ; at Stockholm, the longest day is only 18 hr. 1' 2",
and the shortest 6 hr. In Scania, the shortest is 7 hr., and
the longest 17 hr. 1' 2".
One can imagine the privations and the fatigues thus im
posed on the people of these thinly inhabited regions, almost
polar, obUged to gather from this poor soil the necessities of
existence. Thus, whUe we see the population of the southern
provinces increasing rapidly, those of the north remain almost
deserted. It is curious to remark how the number of the
plants of a country bear analogy to that of its inhabitants. In
studying the Flora sacica, we see, that in the government of
Malmo, bordering on the Sound, there are 6000 people and
915 varieties of plants for every square league ; at Hernas-
sand, between 62° and 64°, 400 inhabitants and 310 plants
only; and still more north, at Pitteo, between 65° and 69°, 60
inhabitants and 93 various kinds of plants.
These proportions wiU change, however ; for the population
increasing considerably, carries forward the science of agricul
ture, and causes the disappearance of all hardy plants.
This increase of population has taken especiaUy a great
start the last 40 years ; for Sweden, which had only a popu
lation of 2,400,000 in 1810, has now more than 3£ minions ;
which constitutes, without noticing Norway, a population su
perior in number to that which she possessed under the great
king Wasa, when Finland, Ingria, Lavonia, and Pomerania,

92 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
belonged to her. Thus, without aiming at the poUtical influ
ence which she had under Gustavus Adolphus, and his suc
cessor the great Charles, Sweden has so profited by these last
years of peace, by increasing her material strength, and stirring
that energetic spirit which is the characteristic of the Scan
dinavian race, that she will always be able to maintain her
dignity among the nations of Europe.
Agriculture and industry are making giant strides a-head.
At the commencement of the century, an importation from 2
to 300,000 tons of wheat was necessary to the subsistence of
the people, and now a population, considerably increased, ex
ports at least as much. In 1849 the exports of corn amounted
to 500,000 tons.
The industry displayed in metaUurgy yields nothing to.
agriculture ; by the adoption of aU improvements, this wealth
dafiy increases in value.
In fine, the manufactures, which under a regime of protec
tive duties could not, until 1824, exceed a produce of 7,000,000
doUars banco, have since, under a more Uberal system, al
though yet quite protective,* arrived at a value of more than
24,000,000 doUars banco. The commercial navy has increased
since 1830, from 72,000 to 112,000 lasts. The freight of
these ships produces yearly many millions. This does not
include Swedish ships sold to foreigners, by whom they are
generaUy esteemed for their elegance and perfect bufid. The
development of the chief manufactures of the country entails,
of necessity, an increase of the general consumption, and the
extension of commercial relations.
* The tariff of Sweden still contains, many prohibitions.

SWEDISH COMMERCE.

93

The commerce of the interior, which we are about to
treat of at greater length, has made such progress since 1824,
that the exports and imports, which then amounted but to
21,000,000 dollars banco, are now doubled, and make
48,000,000. In continuing wisely in this progressive line,
Sweden has attracted the attention of the world ; and not
only wiU she herself be the gainer, but she wiU offer great
advantages to nations which, instead of waging a war of
customs with her, would enter into a liberal measure of active
exchange. The year 1850, the last for which there are any official
reports, ought to be regarded as exceptional, for the bad har
vest in the northern provinces has drawn the overstock of the
corn of the south to them, thus limiting the usual export to
foreign markets. Thus the exports of 1850 were only of the
value of 24,000,000 dollars banco, while 1849 showed a sum
of 26,300,000 ; and 1847, a good year for agriculture, saw
the exports rise to 30,900,000 doUars banco. The foUowing
tables show more clearly the states of the commerce of the
country during late years. We give the value in dollars bar,r,ri:
the doUar is worth 2 fr. 12 cent.

Exports.

By Swedish vessels.

Total.

1841 . .

. 14,37^,000 . .

22,827,000 Dollars banco

1842 .

. 15,701,000 . .

23,373,000 „

1843 .

. 13,794,000 . .

„

1844 . .

. 14,540,000 . .

D

1845 . .

. 14,872,000 . .

rt

1846 .

. 15,930,000 . .

,,

1847 .

. 19,440,000 . .

jl

1848 .

. 18,540,000 . .

,,

1849 .

. . 17,790,000 . .

)7

1850 .

. 14,685,000 . .

24,505,000 „

94

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

Imports.

By Swedish vessels

Total.

1841 . .

14,726,000 .

. 20,663,000 Dollars banco

1842 . .

. 12,658,000

31

1843 . .

• IT

1844 . .

j,
1845 . .
• 31
1846 . .
3,
1847 . .
• 33
1848 .
, J7
1849 . .
33
1850 . .
33
The foUowing table will give more in detaU the exports
and imports of Sweden for each country.
Table comparing the exports and imports of Sweden with those
of the nations named below :
Value in Dollars banco.
Exports.
Finland  641,000
Denmark .... 3,673,000
Prussia  1,374,000
Mecklenburg .... 452,000
Hanover and Oldenburg . . 89,000
Belgium  266,000
Great Britain and Ireland . 7,741,000
France  2,074,000
Spain  342,000
Portugal  839,000
Gibraltar and Malta . . 52,000
Italy  248,000
Austria  82,000
Egypt  11,000
Algeria  298,000
Other parts of North Africa . 5000
United States .... 2,518,000
Other countries of North and)
South America . . . ) '
Imports. 422,000
1,733,000 451,000 51,000 1000
74,000
3,332,000 479,000245,000153,000 )i
152,000
1,639,000
SWEDISH COMMERCE.

95

Exports.

Imports.

Cape of Good Hope

131,000 .

a

Norway . . . .

778,000 .

2,317,000

Russia .

. 272,000 .

1,698,000

Lubeck ,

. 1,313,000 .
4,083,000
Hamburg
111,000 .
647,000
Bremen .
186,000 .
243,000
The Netherlands
468,000 .
561,000
West Indies
• . ,, .
161,000
Brazil
299,000 .
4,330,000
East Indies and Au
itrali
x . 211,000 .
. 1,215,000
The commerce, of which we have just given the value in
doUars banco, is counter-balanced by importations of colonial
provisions, drugs, wines, salt, a quantity of manufactured ar
ticles, and even the produce of fisheries which Sweden obtains
from Norway.
To balance these imports, Sweden exports the productions
of the soil, viz. grain, timber, and ore.
A detailed Ust of the articles of importation and exporta
tion wiU furnish the best knowledge of the nature of Swedish
commerce. We give throughout the value in doUars banco,
worth Is. 9%d. each. The quantities are stated in the weights
and measures of Sweden, the value of which are explained.
The skeppund, in German schiffpfund, signifies literaUy
pound, o*r ship-weight, or measure for freightage. There are
two kinds of skeppund in the foUowing tables, — the ordinary
or commercial skeppund, and the skeppund measure for ra
tions. The first, skeppund victualievigt, abridged v. v., provision
or commercial weight, and which is used in the commerce of
colonial provisions, alimentary and otherwise, as weU as in
96 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
accounts of importation, contains 169-42 kilog. This skep
pund is divided into 20 Uspund, 400 livres, and 12,800
lod. The other skeppund, the skeppund staplestadsvigt, abbre
viated st. v., measure for rations or the warehouse, iron ore
and metal measure, and on which ores, excepting gold and
silver, are rated, contain, 400 livres st. v., or 320 ordinary
livres (provision measure)=135'53 kilog. A skeppund mea
sure for rations contains then 16 Uspund, ordinary weight,
or provision measure (v. v.), and a Uvre, provision measure
=£ Uvres (v. v.)
The centner (cwt.) of Sweden contains 6 Uspund v. v., or
120 livres v.v. = 50"82 kilog.
The Uspund contains 20 Uvres v. v. =8'47 kilog.
The Uvre contains 32 lod.=423-54 grammes.
The Swedish eU of 2 feet contains 5937 millim, or 2632
Ugnes (Paris), or 23*376 inches, EngUsh.
The foot (fot) is equal to half an ell, and is divided accord
ing to the ancient custom, into 12 inches, or 144 Ugnes, or
decimaUy into 10 inches, =100 Ugnes, and contains 296'87
miUim; 131-6 Ugnes (Paris), or 11-688 English inches.
The tunna (barrel, or tun) for liquid measure, is divided
into 48 kanna, 96 stop, and 384 quarter; and contain* 125-57
litres; 6330-24 cubic inches (Paris), or 27-637 gaUons.
Kanna, 60 of the aime, equal to the 10th part of a cubic
foot, is divided into 2 stop=8 quarter — 32 jungfrur, and con
tains 2-616 Utres, or 131-88 cubic inches (Paris), or 4606
EngUsh pints.
Tunna, corn measure,=2 spaun=4 halfspun or fjerdedel-
stunna=8 fjerdingar, 32 kappar=53-5 feet cubic (Swedish),

SWEDISH COMMERCE.

97

strike measure,= 146-50 litres; 7385-28 cubic inches (Paris);
4-030 bushels.
It must be observed that for every tunna of wheat, barley,
oats, and peas they add 4 kuppar; which makes the tunna
36 kuppar, or 63 kanna : it then contains 164'81 Utres, or
8308-44 cubic inches (Paris), or 4'534 bushels.
The articles which especially attract attention in Swedish
exports are, timber, grain, and iron, the chief productions of
the country. We give here some detaUs of these exports :
Table or the Expobts of Timbeb.

1847.

1848.

1849.

1850.

Sawn planks of pine and of i
fir .... dozens)"

682,426

501,185

609,146

715,034

Beams and small beams of)
pine and fir . pieces >

474,888

336,685

257,441

314,402

Sleepers . . . pieces

129,949

64,530

32,607

10,688

Masts, bowsprits, and spars)
ofpineandfir pieces*

14,464

12,857

12,045

10,194

Staves for the sides, and)
bends of casks, pieces >

7,830,280

346,651

5,348,128

7,177,014

The export of pine and fir into England has considerably
increased since we have thought proper to bring down the old
customs. We give the official reports of this commerce for the
year 1850: in the year 1851 the importation of this timber
more than doubled. France also, where rapid progress is
being made in naval architecture, seeks more than ever the
Scandinavian timber. Moreover, Sweden has herself used for
some years past, for ship-building, a large quantity of this
timber. The increased value of forest-lands has taught the Swedish
government that such an important resource ought not to be

98 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
left to nature ; and now special schools furnish the proprietors
with men destined solely to survey and preserve the forests.
It cannot be doubted that science, thus applied to the felling
of trees, could double and treble the exports, without danger
of deteriorating the property.
According to the statistics of a competent authority in such
matters, — the head-director of woods and forests, — Sweden pos
sesses 25 milUons tunnland in wood, yielding yearly 5,700,000
famnar, 5,525,000 of which are consumed in the country, and
175,000 only are exported, in manufactured articles, masts,
planks, &c.
The exports of grain, which in 1850 amounted only to
340,820 tunna, the bad harvest in the northern provinces
having been the cause of the absorption of the surplus of
the southern states, were in 1849, 529,00.0 tunna; in 1848,
439,000; in 1847, 532,000 tunna of corn, besides consider
able quantities of flour. This decrease is also observable in
wheat and rye. Thus, wheat, which in 1847 was exported
to the extent of 44,306 tunna, shows a return in 1850 of only
743 ; and rye, which the same year gave to the exports 156,000
tunna, feU in 1850 to 418 tunna.
The table we have just given proves that, excepting in
1850, when a bad harvest was the cause of the diminished
export of corn, there has been an immense development of the
cereal produce of the country.
We have shown that Sweden has become, by dint of sa
crifice and labour, able to transform her northern provinces
into an agricultural district, capable not only of satisfying the
wants of the population, much increased since the commence
ment of the century, but even of adding to the exports. More
than nine-tenths of the population are now engaged in agri-

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 99
culture. The people who live on the coasts devote themselves
naturaUy to navigation ; but the smaU number of manufac
tures in the country are in a condition much below the rest of
Europe. Far from establishing in cities the focus of an agglomerated
and unhealthy population, and thus engendering physical and
moral corruption, the factories are established usually in the
country, where each workman can annex to his cottage a
smaU field, with the cultivation of which he can occupy his
leisure time and add to his comfort. This constant commu
nion with nature raises elevated sentiments in the breasts of
the Swedish workmen, who, secure as to their future from
their agricultural pursuits, escape the leprosy of communism,
so fatal in great manufacturing towns. The schools and agri
cultural societies have popularised the study of husbandry ; a
better system of manuring has increased the productiveness of
the soil ; but it is especially to the extension of arable land
that we must attribute the immense increase of grain.
The great change of climate has, of necessity, rendered
this progress very unequal. Thus, the six most northern
provinces produce but 2 hectares per cent, while the centre of
the country gives 16 per cent, and Scania 28. It is in this
part that we mark the most notable progress of agriculture ;
notwithstanding, the country is far distant from the agricul
tural development of Denmark, which produces 40 hectares
per cent, while Belgium, France, and England, favoured by a
milder climate, yield respectively, 48, 54, and 55 per cent.
Indeed Sweden is now in a fair condition to advance with
certainty in the path of progress : she has no possible fear
that her peace and repose wiU be disturbed; and more, she
possesses in her own territory a large extent of raw material,

100 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
which only awaits sinew and capital to make it fit for every
market. In the southern provinces alone, which comprise
2287 square geographical leagues, there are millions of hec
tares of virgin land.
The attention of speculators begins to be awakened in this
quarter ; and already some Danes and Germans have found
an ample return for their investments in Swedish agriculture.
The increase of produce, an infaUible proof of careful tUlage,
has caused the value of these lands to rise : — in fact, every
thing tends daUy to increase in value, through the arrival of
foreign capital, and the advances obtained on landed property.
These advances enable the large proprietors to undertake
works of embellishment and improvement, and to import
foreign cattle to improve the breed of native animals. These
loans do not exceed 20,000,000 dollars banco, and the results
obtained, proved by the Usts of exports of grain and alimentary
provisions, are sufficiently productive to satisfy the country as
to the wisdom of investments.
The annual produce of Sweden from 1822 to 1832 had
not risen beyond 7,000,000 tunna of grain, and 3,000,000
tunna of potatoes : but during the last ten years, grain has
risen to 11,000,000, and potatoes to 7,000,000. The mean
value of the produce of these last years, without counting
potatoes, is then, at least, from 20,000,000 to 25,000,000
dollars banco, including 3,000,000 tunna (nearly 5,000,000
hectolitres) of barley, and 350 tunna (577,500 hectolitres) of
wheat, &c. To avoid exaggeration, let us deduct half, viz.
10,000,000, or 12,000,000 dollars banco for expenses of tUlage,
&c, and there wiU remain 10,000,000 or 12,000,000, for re
venue, making a capital of from 200,000,000 to 250,000,000
doUars banco for increased value of the soU.

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 101
As no progress in husbandry can maintain itself without
abundance of animal production, the attention of the cultiva
tor has been drawn to the improvement of cattle; and the
Diet has aUotted large sums to the establishment of several
smaU model farms. But this department stUl leaves much
to be desired; for although there are in Sweden 400,000 cows,
500,000 oxen, and 500,000 calves, making a total of 1,400,000
horned cattle, the exports of butter and cheese are very insig
nificant. StiU there is certainly progress, since for many years the
commercial navy has been victualled completely without hav
ing recourse to foreigners ; but there remains yet much to do,
when we remember that Denmark, with a total of 14,000,000
horned cattle only, exports butter to the annual value of
400,000Z. We see from the experience of smaU farms, how
much production can be increased; for whUe the mean yield
of one cow is from 40 pounds of butter and 40 of cheese, the
cows at these model farms give from 90 to 100 pounds of but
ter, and from 120 to 130 pounds of cheese.
In addition to cattle, the country possesses 400,000 horses,
560,000 pigs, and 1,550,000 sheep. These last are generally
of the poorest kind, in spite of the efforts of the government
and the endeavours of private individuals to encourage cross
breeding with the races of Germany, England, France, and
Belgium. Under the reign of Gustavus Adolphus and his daughter
Christina, the introduction of aU kinds of foreign beasts was
attempted ; but it has been fully shown, from long experience,
that the breed which succeeds the best is the English South-
Down ; their wool is good, it resists the worst weather, and
fattens the easiest. The farmer prefers, generaUy, to be en-

102 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
gaged in the breeding of those horned cattle, which he regards,
with reason enough, as most profitable ; cows find food more
easUy than sheep in the centre of the southern heaths; they
are less subject to Ulnesses, demand less care, and yield much
more manure. Again, through the winter, they thrive on
turnips and dry branches of the trees, — the birch, aspen, and
alder, very common trees in Sweden.
The produce of wool has not by any means arrived at a
satisfactory result, for the Swedes are obUged to import large
quantities. The tables of imports will show that Sweden im
ported, in 1850, 2,076,578 pounds, and in 1849, 2,688,161
pounds. The amount of exports of iron show that this branch of
industry has undergone few advantageous changes during late
years. The exports rose in 1850 to 572,378 skeppund of
bar-iron, and 17,750 skeppund of steel; in 1849 this exporta
tion amounted to 550,000 skeppund of iron, and 23,000 skep
pund of steel; in 1848, 490,000 skeppund of iron, and 17,000
skeppund of steel; in 1847, 604,000 skeppund of iron, and
18,000 skeppund of steel; in 1846, 558,000 skeppund of iron,
and 16,000 of steel.
It would not be just to attribute this fixed position to the
carelessness of the manufacturers ; on the contrary, they have
made the most laudable efforts to improve iron manufactures
and economise the material.
But the priee of wood has not only followed the increased
consumption, but it has undergone also the influence whicli
the opening of new paths of communication has had upon
commerce generally. Landowners, who formerly possessed
no other means of disposing of a part of their forests but in
the form of charcoal made upon the spot, find now, thanks to

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 103
the facility of transit, an advantageous market for their planks,
masts, manufactured timber, and other materials.
Charcoal has also become less common ; and the more
they have brought economy to help them, the more the prices
have risen, which has, of necessity, increased the cost price of
Swedish iron. It is also to be remarked, that while England,
developing with giant steps her iron trade, has undertaken to
export iron at a low rate, Sweden, deterred by the cause above
explained, has only slightly forced her production. Up to
1740, Sweden manufactured 68,000 tons (340,000 skeppund),
while England had only produced 17,000 ! Since that time,
the face of the matter has entirely altered ; for while the pro
duce of Sweden is still but 92,000 tons (650,000 skeppund),
England has attained the enormous amount of 2,000,000 tons.
The English ton is equal to 7-46639 skeppund, in Swedish
stapelstadwigt. The annual exports of Sweden are 80,000
tons of iron, and 3000 tons of steel ; those of England (without
counting more than 1,000,000Z. of machines, &c.) are 800,000
tons of iron, and 10,000 of steel made with Swedish iron.
But whUe the scarcity and dearness of fuel present an
obstacle almost insurmountable to the activity of this produc
tion in Sweden, England has but to dig to find, often side by
side, not only ore and the coal which melts it, but Ume, used
in smelting, and fire-clay, indispensable in the construction of
high furnaces. In addition to these advantages, she has in
abundance the means of transport of every kind : at each
mine, at almost every factory, there is close at hand a canal
or a railway, which, having received the cast-iron or the
steel, conveys it, at Uttle expense, to any part of the United
Kingdom. It is not therefore in cheapness that Swedish iron can

104 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
hope to rival that of Belgium, England, or any other country
using pit-coal. England can sell her iron at 12 or 15 francs
the cwt., whUe that of Sweden could not be sold, even in the
country, for less than 20 francs ; and the superior qualities, in
tended for the manufacture of steel, cost in the ports 30, 35,
and even 40 francs the cwt. We count 4 dollars banco for
expenses of fuel and hand- work.
However, in spite of its high price, Swedish iron will al
ways find customers, and will be always indispensable where
material nervous and pliant is required, and for the making
steel. Notwithstanding all the beautiful discoveries of science, steel
made with either English iron, French iron, or Belgian iron,
is always poor. We are not bUnded by national prejudice,
for we know that the manufacturers of every nation agree
with us in declaring, that without Swedish iron, steel is not
good. We repeat, that every country which would do away
with protection, and manufacture all its steel with our iron,
would have nothing to fear for its own industry in metallurgy.
Limited in its production by the want of fuel, Sweden will
never become a serious rival, in spite of her mineral riches,
giving from 45 to 50 per cent on iron, and even 70 in the in
exhaustible mines of GeUivare.
We have, however, faith in the future ; for a real spirit of
industry has arisen : the immense progress made during the
last 30 years invite us to new efforts ; the Swede, used from
infancy to work and privations, and impressed with right and
honest sentiments, wiU not be slow to tread in a path that in
sures to him material welfare and moral improvement.

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 105

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE NAVIGATION OF THE EXTERIOR.
In legislating with respect to navigation, for a number of
years Sweden has foUowed in a liberal track ; and if she has
not yet renounced protection, it is solely to reserve to herself
the right of making those concessions which other nations give
to her flag. We have seen her desirous of foUowing England
in the repeal of the navigation-laws. With the exception of
the coasting-trade, which is yet exclusively reserved for na
tives, the government has insured the same treatment to every
nation which, by treaties, have admitted the Swede to the
same advantages in their ports.
Such treaties have been made with Norway in 1825, with
Russia, in '38 ; Prussia, in '27 ; Mecklenburg Schwerin, in '46
Denmark, '26; Hamburg and Bremen, '41; Oldenburg, '43
England, '26 and '49; Sardinia, '39; Pontifical States, '33
Portugal, '37; Brazil, '44; Greece, '36 and '37; Turkey, '27
Austria, '31 ; the United States, '27 ; the two SiciUes, '49
Tuscany, '48 ; Egypt, '18 ; the RepubUcs of Venezuela and
Chili, in '40 and '51.
The differential duties of Sweden consist in the surcharge
levied : 1st, upon custom-house duties ; 2d, upon toimage ; and
3dly, upon lighthouse dues.
The surcharge on customs consists, for every vessel not
privileged, of 40 per cent on the imports, and 50 per cent on
the exports.
For tonnage dues, a Swedish ship, or one enjoying by
treaty the national treatment, pays 12 skUUngs banco (about
bd.) per last; while foreign ships pay 36 skillings banco —
three times as much. Even lighthouse dues, which are only

106 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
10 skiUings per last for the national flag, or those regarded as
such, are 20 skiUings per last for those not assimilated.
All these duties are collected by the gage of the strong
last (swar laest), equal to 18 skeppund, ration table, or 2448
kUogrammes. The strong last is thus equal to 4000 pounds.
The strong last must not be confounded with the light last
(laett laest), which is generally called the Swedish, last in
freighting, and which is only 15 skeppund, 2020 kilogrammes,
or a little more than 2 sea tons. The sea tons (or of freight),
the value of which is, for heavy merchandise, 1000 kUo
grammes in France, or 20 cwt. or 1 ton in England, 2000 lbs.
in Germany, and in Spain, &c, contains 5878 skeppund v. v.,
or 7348 skeppund st. v.
The other duties levied in Swedish ports, in addition to
those already named as differential, are for the most part much
above the same customs in other countries. But there are still
two taxes Uttle known to the stranger, and which we ought to
mention here, as having great influence upon the expenditure
of every loaded vessel entering a Swedish port: these are the
tolag and the conveyance duties.
The tolag, derived from the German zulage, is a sort of
octroi or towns-due of an additional tenth, given to the towns
that have stations or halting- places, upon all merchandise im
ported and exported. This due is about 2 per cent on the
value, or more correctly If per cent on the value of aU mer
chandise imported, and li per cent on exports. For aU pro
visions or objects not rated in the tariff of the customs, the to
lag is regulated upon the invoices and biUs of lading.
The conveyance dues is a tax of 10 per cent on the duties
of the custom- house, levied upon aU merchandise at entrance
or departure. This tenth part additional feeds a special ex-

SWEDISH COMMERCE. 107
chequer, called " Commercial and Navigation Fund," for the
maintenance of these two branches of industry, and in a great
degree to defray the expenses of the Swedish consuls.
Sweden and Norway, represented to the foreigner as of the
same political bias, have a diplomacy and consulate common
to both countries. Each contributes in a ratio stipulated by
convention to a common exchequer, which amounts to 550,000
doUars banco. The two governments, understanding how far
the vast development of commerce has added, in our times, to
the importance of consular duties, have recently been engaged
upon a new organisation of this element of international law.
Following the example of aU countries which have aspired
to influence in the commercial world, Sweden and Norway have
resolved to profit by the large funds at their disposal, to have
for the future, in commercial places of the most importance,
permanent paid agents, instead of being represented, as now,
by merchants, often natives, and consequently not fitted , to
protect the interests of their foreign constituents. A merchant
is almost always absorbed in personal matters, which do not
give him time to exercise that vigilance necessary to ensure
performance of treaties, and to cause every infraction of these
treaties to be actively prosecuted.
The claims and observations of a native wUl have neces
sarily less weight with his government than those of a person
having a special mission from his country, and not mixed up
with any interest in the nation to which he is accredited.
This new organisation is already in vigour by royal order ;
and the united kingdom's of Sweden and Norway have actually
a consulate composed of 24 general consuls, 53 consuls, and
423 vice-consuls.
The commercial navy has not ceased to increase the last 20

108

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

years ; thus in 1830 Sweden had 1841 ships registering 72,074
lasts; in 1840, 2174 ships of 87,779 lasts; in 1849, 2624
vessels of 107,893 lasts; and in 1850, by the latest official
reports, 2744 vessels, registering 112,983 lasts.
By the reports received from the consuls during the year
1850, 3702 Swedish vessels had arrived in foreign ports, re
gistering 209,835 lasts. The number of Norwegian vessels
rose to 7058, registering 352,278 lasts.
In giving a table of the general movement in the ports of
Sweden, the reader can easUy see the returns with regard to
the national flag. Arrivals in Swedish Ports.

Under Nat

ional Flag.

Total.

1841 .

. . 3035 vessels of 102,281 lasts .

.. 4580 vessels of 195,407

1842 .

. 2808

>>

97,775 „

4555

184,498

1843 .

. 2970

>}

95,237

4399

178,879

1844 .

. 3306

1)

101,763

4934

201,002

1845 .

. 3647

,,

114,104 „

5630

246,763

1846 .

. 4086

•3

122,952

6289

262,987

1847 .

. 4194

)>

121,187 „

6707

270,451

1848 .

. 3148

„

116,325

5240

225,422

1849 .

. 3161

>)

111,233

5762

245,424

1850 .

. 3171

)¦>

113,774 „

5274

262,029

Departures from Swedish Ports.

1841 .
. 3031
}1
103,725
4567
198,085
1842 .
. 2844
!}
99,565
4491
185,820
1843 .
. 2992
?7
99,903
4425
185,365
1844 .
. 3344
>)
106,266
5018
209,388
1845 .
. 3699
73
115,207
5705
252,557
1846 .
. 4025'
JJ
124,321
6266
, 272,769
1847 .
. 4029
„
127,404
6347
, 281,197
1848 .
. 3031
,,
111,041
5373
221,814
1849 .
. 3150
>3
118,228
5231
253,327
1850 .
. 3152
)>
117,668
5345
271,414
Wis

mm^Km 1 ¦

reFI ¦¦¦ :^fSf*EJA^iA^#5A!
If1 p''r' Mtj^BaMS jwKiH^^^^^B

VIEW OF THE PORT OF STOCKHOLM.

SWEDISH COMMERCE.

109

A GENERAL MOVEMENT IN THE PORTS OP SWEDEN.
Arrivals from the following, nations.

Swedish Flag.

Foreign Flags.

r— 

V

i

Vessels.

Lasts.

Vessels.

Lasts.

Norway - . . .

215

4874

666

39,116

Finland .

95
647
327
16,696
Russia
.
80
4287
22
1922
Prussia .
113
4736
26
1848
Denmark
1987
34,815
554
11,188
Mecklenburg
100
3982
45
2566
Lubeck .
243
6758
37
2710
Hamburg
32
2616
26
2089
Bremen .
12
880
12
734
Hanover and Oldenburg .
1
23
9
355
The Netherlands .
21
1216
16
1491
Belgium ....
23
1901
20
2008
Great Britain and Ireland
306
19,935
457
43,722
France ....
33
2807
160
17,328
Spain ....
54
6303
6
671
Portugal.
50
4130
2
164
Italy . . . ¦
19
2250
6
797
Algeria ....
1
116
))
}J
Other parts of Africa
1
139
H
if
United States .
14
1571
7
18
West Indies .
4
494
3
319
Brazil ....
59
6736
5
432
East Indies and Australia
17
2558
1
202
Total
3480
113,774
2407
148,25
110

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

Departures from Sweden for the following Ports.

Swedish Flag.
*

Foreign Flags.

Vessels.

Tonnage in lasts.

1 t Vessels.

Tonijage in laBts.

Norway .

207

5465

391

8285

Finland .

103

1033

271

11,515

Russia ....

55

2258

32

2194

Prussia .

124
4708
89
4368
Denmark
2040
34,593
319
12,548
Mecklenburg
87
3375
72
4710
Lubeck .
167
5617
60
4118
Hamburg
6
203
3
163
Bremen .
3
107
11
755
Hanover and Oldenburg .
,,
ii
10
373
The Netherlands .
28
1531
18
1031
Belgium ....
19
1425
36
3482
Great Britain and Ireland
299
20,596
561
59,333
France
94
8935
307
32,462
Spain • .
42
4489
5
581
Portuga ....
45
3833
2
139
Italy ....
19
2150
17
2514
Gibraltar and Malta
16
1809
ii
Austria ....
6
447
ii
Algeria ....
22
2881
2
305
Other parts of Africa
2
248
ii
ii
United States .
40
5502
24
4501
Brazil .
22
2587
ii
165
East Indies and Australia
12
1486
1
93
Egypt ....
1
112
»i
a
Cape of Good Hope
13
3472
2278
a
204
Total
117,668
2232
153,746
CHAPTER VI.

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST.

Briskly along the crisp roads came Herr M.'s carriage to the
door of the Gotha Kellare on the following morning. The day
was cloudless, and there was not a breath of wind stirring.
As I looked out from my warm room, it seemed to me the
most ridiculous thing in the world that there should be people
huddled in furs, creeping about the streets, and that ice was
sparkling in every direction. Presently I went out for a stroll,
and found the air light, and sharp, and invigorating. I en
joyed it immensely, even without my fur — dressed, in fact, as
I should have been equipped in Fleet Street, had I been there
on this morning. But Herr M. laughed when I said that I
was certain I could bear Arctic degrees of cold without in
convenience : he bade me think so if I chose, but not to for
get my furs and my over-boots. I was strongly urged by the
Captain to try Herr M.'s suggestions. About one o'clock we
began the process of packing ourselves for the journey ; and
having completed this labour, and wished the flxka Catherina
a merry wedding (she wore the silver betrothal ring, and was
very proud of it), we were packed at last in Herr M.'s travel
ling carriage, and said our parting words to some kind new
friends who stood to the last in the hotel door-way.
And so we went on our way to Orebro. "We drove past
the cemetery of Gottenburg, situated out of the way of the

112 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
living — not under their noses, at their back-doors, or under
their parlour-windows. There was no snow about, but the
frost was hard enough. As the carriage rattled forward, the
splinters of ice flew about on both sides of us ; and the noise
suggested that we must be travelling over the floor of a glass
house, or over the ruins of some gigantic crystal palace. The
scenery was wild and grand. The huge hills of purple and
grey granite encompassed us on all sides ; and the road kept
winding right and left, endeavouring to avoid a precipitous
ascent ; but at last the engineer seemed to have had his pa
tience fairly exhausted, and to have smoothed a broad path
way for us up the granite steep. These were here and there
covered with gbstening ice ; and the horses skipped and tum
bled about in the most active manner, snorted, and seemed to
be as fairly afraid of the business as the passengers. At one
moment certainly they had nearly turned us all down a terri
ble place, all bristling with pointed rock, and shining with
fantastic ice-patterns. The streams were ice-bound in all
directions. A torrent of water falling perpendicularly was
one solid transparent column ; and in all directions we could
see rapid streams bound in the midst of their gambols, — bound
for a long winter's rest.
For miles on our way, the Gotha, still struggling against
the frost, but congealed firmly all along its banks, could be
seen on our right, winding its way among the stern granite hills.
Presently, on its banks, we saw a mill — a huge square red
brick building, that reminded me of the outskirts of Man
chester. It was the speculation of a Scotchman — it looked
Scotch too. Not far beyond it, on the opposite side of the
river, was a formidable fortress, that frowned in days gone by
on the Norwegian plains beyond ; and hereabouts also, im-

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST.

113

bedded in rocks, and backed by hills covered with dense pine-
forests, was the little town of Kongelf, celebrated, if I am not
mistaken, for nothing more formidable than its spice-bread
or ginger-bread. At a posting station in this vicinity Herr
M. purchased a lump of this bread, which closely resembled
in taste the pain-d"epice of childhood, sold at the various
fairs of France, and at the ducasses of the villages. A cu
rious compound this, that gets better the longer it is kept,
according to the old French gossips, who tell wonderful stories
of the number of years it will keep pure ; but I never saw
the child who gave it the chanee of proving these marvellous
powers of self-preservation. But gingerbread eaten after sun
set, with the thermometer a few degrees below freezing-point,
in a jolting carriage that compels you to dodge your mouth,
is not a happy species of refreshment.
By the way, before the sun went down on this day, we
passed a Swedish speculator in pork, who was conveying his
venture to Gottenburg, upon a sledge, in the following manner.

114 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
He was droning a song as he passed us — a monotonous, grum-
bUng air. I remember that I envied him his active limbs, and
his apparent contempt for the cold. I was beginning to feel
jt in earnest. Not that damp shivering sensation which we
know as coldness in England, but a piercing, uncompromising
cold, that seemed to benumb the limbs to the marrow of them:
— that was not painful, but particularly unpleasant. The air
was very clear, the stars bright as diamonds — there was not a
breath of wind. Every time I opened my mouth for an in
stant, I seemed to inhale an icicle, and my teeth were chilled
terribly ; sneezing, under the stiff circumstances of my face,
would, I am certain, have been a physical impossibility. As
I glanced right and left, my moving eyeballs chilled my eye
lids; and fur that caught my breath stood out round about
my mouth, a perfect chevaux-de-frise of icicles. Under all
these cooling circumstances, I enjoyed this ride; for I had
never before beheld the heavens through cloudless air. The
stars were marvellously brilliant, and appeared to be larger
and more lively bodies than those we see through the thick
films of London air ; and the blue in which they were set was
so profound in its depths, that its solemn grandeur was in
creased tenfold.
We travelled two or three stations only on the day we left
Gottenburg, and pulled up for the night about ten o'clock
before a neat post-house, at which our forbud had ordered
refreshment and beds for us. We were shown into two little
low rooms, each of which had a huge stove iu it ; and the air
herein was so warm, wben compared with that out of doors,
that we seemed to be in an oven. I felt like a mass of ice,
that no degree of heat could possibly affect ; a moving gla
cier, not to be thawed under any circumstances. I allowed

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 113
the servant to relieve me of my furs, to take off my over-
boots — I think to remove my cap ; and then I began to pace
up and down the little rooms by way of experiment, for I was
not at all certain any kind of animal heat was left in my ana
tomy. Herr M. was not in the least degree inconvenienced ;
and ordered his man-servant to bring in the mat-sac without
delay. The flika of the establishment was also summoned ;
and she at once consented to provide any quantity of eggs ;
some salmon, cold, in jelly ; finkel of course ; and coffee, to
the board. The Captain and Herr M. closed at once with this
proposition, while I continued my exercise, and began at last
to feel my blood rushing and burning about me. This feeling
was not at all pleasant ; and when at last I sat down to take
snapps before our evening meal, my face felt as though it had
been well beaten, my head felt bald, and my hair dry as tin
der. The glass of spirits I had on that occasion was delight
ful ; and as I took my little bits of dried fish on bits of rye-
bread, I began to feel thoroughly comforted. Soon, as our
meal progressed, we chatted merrily enough ; and a conversa
tion that seemed to have been dropped by general consent on
the journey, after the sun went down, and which was about
the condition of the Swedish peasantry, was resumed.
Herr M. was a ' conservative ; he said, a tory. He was a
noble, brought up to enjoy all the privileges of his class, and
retaining those strong opinions held in all countries where the
classes of society have for centuries been firmly marked off one
from the other. He had strong sympathies, and was evidently
a kind master, but was not one who would abate a single
privilege of his order. Excellently educated, as I have al
ready written, subtle in argument, and strong in his prejudices,
he was exactly the man with whom it is profitable to talk on

116 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
the social phases of his native country. He knew well the
laws of the land ; he was familiar with the administration
thereof; he had large experience of the various methods of
agriculture ; he had seen the peasants of his country under
every change of season ; and, as a legislator, had made it his
particular business to watch the operation of the laws upon the
national destinies. These happy circumstances had been en
joyed by a man who was at heart a true and a sound man ; a
perfect gentleman in all that makes the appellation honourable
and covetable : a patriot, with pride in the poorest as well as
the richest of his countrymen. Yet a man less like an Eng
lish liberal it is hardly possible to conceive. I met him with
prejudices very much opposed to his ; yet I found, at heart,
there was no great difference between us. I learned from him
many facts and suggestions as to the condition of the Swedish
peasantry, which I shall presently beg leave to offer, with
such comments thereon as I may choose to make.
I am very certain, that an ordinary Englishman, with the
average supply of information, and the average stock of mar
ketable liberality — who is perhaps a very wealthy manufac
turer, drawing his wealth from Spitalfields, as a fire-fly feeds
upon sores — if asked his opinion of the Swedish peasantry,
would throw up his hands, and offer his sovereign in aid of
funds for their emancipation and ameboration. His knowledge
on the subject would be, of course, of the most limited charac
ter; but he would be sentimental and "liberal" on a notion
gleaned from some odd old newspaper, caught in some desul
tory conversation, or snatched from some extract out of some
obscure book, that the Swedish peasantry were in a dreadful
condition — nearly on a par with the negroes of the southern
states of America — bound and whipped and starved, and look-

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 117
ing with wonder, like Chimpanzees, upon print. This notion
would represent very fairly the general impression — the blind
and gross ignorance of the Swedish people, which has reached
down to this present year ; for it could not be expected that a
gentleman who travelled helter-skelter through the country in
a sulky some twenty years ago, conversed with nobody and
saw nobody, could be a remarkably good authority on the con
dition of the people through whose provinces he scampered.
The truth on the subject of Swedish peasant-life, so far as
I could ascertain it from intelligent Swedes with whom I came
in contact, I shall tell without theorising much. In the first
place, then, I ascertained from Herr M  that the Swedish
peasantry were cursed generally with a love of finkel; yet,
strange to say, throughout a journey of about twelve hundred
miles through the country, I never once encountered a man
thoroughly drunk ; that is, describing a series of very acute
angles on his way, or exhibiting- that boisterous merriment
which, with some men, is the result of undue familiarity with
the bottle — yet, as I say, these Swedish peasants took con
siderable quantities of the popular spirit. The explanation,
I believe, lies in the peculiarity of the climate — in the pre-
vading cold. Take a lady up one of the Scotch mountains,
and she will tipple whisky with impunity; return with her
to the valley, and she will not be able to taste the national
liquor. If I might obtrude my own experience in Sweden, I
should say that I consumed more spirit there in the course
of one day, than I could, with comfort to my friends, con
sume here in a week. It was possible to drink pure spirits
before breakfast with impunity as we travelled on our road to
Orebro. I do not record this fact with the view of turning the
tide of English emigration to the Scandinavian peninsula, nor

118 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
for the purpose of realising a licensed victualler's Utopia. Men
tell you every where in Sweden that finkel is the curse of
the country from one end of it to the other ; that it stupefies
the national energies; that it wastes and dulls the national
brain. It is distilled in every part of the peninsula with the ut
most freedom ; it is wonderfully cheap, and, as a consequence,
very pure. Here it might be asked of certain retailers of Eng
lish spirits, whether the comparative impunity enjoyed by the
spirit- consumer of Sweden should not in some degree be attri
buted to the purity of his beverage, and whether the terribly
disfigured noses which an observer may notice in any street
in London — varying from the port- wine nose of an alderman
to the gin-nose of the cabman — whether these should not be
laid at the door (and they would be serious deposits at the
door of the strongest man) of certain purveyors of spirits, who
burn their neighbours' stomachs with capsicum and verdigris,
and other terrible matters? The Swedes indulge in a pure
distillation called finkel; the English indulge in an impure
mixture, chiefly poisonous. I will not say that the pure fin
kel is no enemy to the Scandinavian nose ; for I noticed here
and there remarkably convincing proofs to the contrary. The
:driver who conducted us from Helsingborg to Gottenburg had
,a nose that was ripening gradually from a raspberry to a mul
berry tint; and many of the noses that arranged themselves
about our carriage-windows at the posting-stations, suggested
a prevailing partiality for alcohol. Our discussion on the sub
ject lasted for hours, and was illustrated by humorous as well
,as tragic instances, with which I shall not trouble the reader.
These related to jocose, as well as serious, systematic drinkers
— to men who drank to enliven themselves, and men who tip
pled because they loved spirit. We said some poetic things

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 119
about the whole soul of a man revealing itself after a second
tumbler ; we enlarged upon the fine social qualities developed
by the magic power of the grape; we touched upon the career
of noted drunkards; and, generally, did not evince any irresis
tible desire to take the pledge. However, we did not person
ally illustrate our position, but contented ourselves with seeking
a sober couch at an early hour. In a little Norman bed, buried
under my furs, with a bottle of the purest conceivable water at
my side, to the sound of a neighbour's performances on a nasal
instrument (of which I have already had to complain griev
ously), I went to sleep.
Among the pleasant occurrences of Ufe I cannot reckon the
tumbling out of a Swedish bed on a Swedish winter's morning,
some hours before the dawn of day, to dress by the light of a
miserable yellow dip ; to wash in a basin which a man would
be justified in mistaking for his breakfast-cup ; to swallow a
pint of boiling coffee and. a lump of rye-bread; ands finally, to
roll out into the morning air, and scramble over the sheet of
ice before the post-house, to a carriage — an open carriage !
How the cold instantly twists your nose! How you recoil from
the touch of every thing 1 How you begin to wonder why you
left London! How you think, with jealousy you cannot sup
press, of the Cockney friends who are lying snugly in their
beds, dreaming that the Timbuctoos have risen an eighth !
How you resolve to make the best of your way back from
Stockholm, without wandering east to see any celebrated falls,
or south to admire any ruin ! What possible interest can you
have, under these unpleasant circumstances, in hearing that
the triangular frames which be about the roads are snow-
ploughs ? Why are you bored with the information that the
greatest agriculturist at present in Sweden is a Scotchman?

120 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
You only know that there are seven quarters of a Swedish
mile between you and your breakfast-table, and that this fact
is of too unpleasant a nature to allow any indulgence in a
general conversation on passing topics.
In a mood like this I set out on my second day's journey
between Gottenburg and Orebro. It was a cloudy morning,
and a thick sleet was falling. The roads were bad ; the coun
try hereabouts was not very interesting ; we had not break
fasted; I had not fully rested; I had a violent cold, that re
duced my voice to a whisper ; and my cap would not keep in
its place — and a thousand things.
About nine o'clock in the morning the sleet turned to rain,
and this poured down with a heavy, incessant flow. A little
excitement relieved the tedium of the morning at one point,
where we found an old lady, who had been tumbled out of her
sledge, calmly waiting till some passenger passed who would
have the kindness to right it, which Herr M  did with
hearty good humour.
When we had breakfasted, we asked where we were to
dine — at once. Herr M  decided that this solemn daily
event should take place at Lidkbping, where he promised us
some splendid salmon, and other delicacies. How weary was
the time as we slowly passed those fields fenced with sloping
palings (nowhere is a hedge to be seen in Sweden); those
snow-ploughs ; those bright red and yellow and blue cottages ;
those endless iron- works ; those interminable forests ; those
wearisome hills and duller plains ; those peasants (all like one
another) Hfting their hats and forcing us to disturb ourselves
in our nests of fur to return their salutations ; those road-side
peasants' children dropping curtseys in the hope of winning
skillings ; those charcoal-burners with their huge black

a o5

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 121
baskets mounted upon sledges ; those snaky streams twisting
about the landscape in every direction, so that some of the
plains, when the sun came out for a few moments, looked like
an adder's nest !
At last we approached Lidkoping, a wooden town just re
covering from a calamitous fire. This town is an average Swe
dish provincial town ; — a very sleepy place apparently, where
one year is an exact copy of the past; where no astounding
fortunes are made, but where all contrive to hve pretty com
fortably ; where the peasants sell their frozen pigs, and where
the passing of the weekly diligence from Gottenburg is the
great event of every seven days ; where all the houses are
painted red, or bright blue, or green ; where the paving is as
bad as that of any French provincial town, and the drivers are
obliged to take the carriage in an acute angle into the ruts ;
and where you may not smoke in the streets. One long, irre
gular street, with here and there a cul-de-sac, and an attempt
at a square, at some point of it ; this is a simple descrip
tion of the ground plan of many of the innumerable Kopings
through which I passed. This plan is easily accounted for.
First a few houses were grouped on a road-side, and then they
spread along the sides of the road ; , the new-comers never
thinking of concentrating the assemblage, but always budding
at the roadside next to the last house. And thus when the
houses had flanked the road for a considerable distance, the
peasants came to offer the produce of their farms, gathered
upon an open plot of ground, and laid the foundation of a
market-place. And thus the town grew ; and thus developed,
travellers see it, and rumble along its long street, wondering
where it will end.
As I have written, these inland towns are generally dull.

122 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
They appear to be Uttle inert capitals dotted in the centre of
vast forests ahd granite hills, and supported by the few travel
lers who pass from Helsingborg, Gottenburg, Christiania, or
Orebro to Stockholm, and the scattered peasants of the neigh
bourhood who buy of and sell to the townsfolk. Lazily the
oxen of the peasants draw their sledges through the street ;
lazily the marketing goes forward ; but rapidly is the finkel
consumed in the tavern. As I noticed all these signs of tor
por, I thought, how will the shriU whistle of the coming loco
motive stir up these good people, as it stirred up country
townsfolk in England ; as it woke the torpid energies of thou
sands ; as it carried to forlorn men in various countries of
the civilised world, tidings welcome to the least-believing ear !
Now, all these peasants have a horror of the steam-engine ;
and see in Count Rosen's railway their impending ruin.
Herr M  had not deceived us on the subject of dinner:
it was excellently cooked. We left Lidk oping in a heavy
shower of rain, with ice under foot: — a pleasant combination.
But in spite of these obstacles we went briskly on our way
out of the town, and wandered over hills, and through dense
forests, till far in the night-time, when we drew up at a post
ing-station for the night. Al the refreshment we could get
here was coffee and crisp sweet cakes. We contrived to con
tent ourselves with these, and went to bed to dream of happier
times, when we had sat opposite glazed tongues and lobster-
salads !
On the following morning we woke to find a clear day
and a sharp frost. These welcome changes enlivened us ; and
we went forward towards the shores of the great Wenern in
an amiable mood. We had an invitation to dine at Hult ; a
small place on the great lake where the steamers stay in the

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 123
summer, and where some ships take their cargoes of iron.
We arrived at this point just before sunset. The great lake
was rolling its waves upon a low shore about us; we were
encompassed by a gloomy forest, and were endeavouring to
walk upon the smoothest possible ice into the inn. We glanced
at a fine ship of 200 tons burden, built on the shores of the
lake in the autumn ; gave our opinion (knowing nothing what
ever about the subject) on the merits of certain points of the
shore for a harbour ; and agreed that here, where the rail
way-station is to be, a large town will soon arise and pro
sper. And with these assurances we entered the dining-room
prepared for us ; and placed ourselves, with pleasure, in the
hands of our host. We drank success to the railway; had
some coffee at a window that looked over the bosom of the
great lake now darkening fast ; and then went on our way
to pay a visit to some relations of Herr M  , who lived
about fifteen miles distant, through a vast and splendid forest.
As we dashed along at a tremendous pace over the snow
and ice ; as the postboy shouted joyously one of Bellmann's
quaint and lively songs, — I thought of many things. As, of
far-off friends who were even then anticipating Christmas fes
tivities ; of the possibly rough sea between Copenhagen and
Kiel to be endured before I could reach London again. I
thought, too, of this vast forest through which we were scram
bling, with its dull, dark-green foliage, loaded at aU con
ceivable points with snow. I was told by the bundle of furs
behind me (somewhere in the depths of which lay one of my
travelUng companions) that these forests are fast disappearing,
that all this grand scenery is being chopped into deal boards
rapidly. And yet we were travelling for hours together through
the densest conceivable forest, all deal. To the songs of the

124 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
postboys, who aU practicaUy adopt the now popular axiom
that " there's nothing Uke leather," by clothing themselves in
this strong material (the woolly side in) from head to foot, we
went on through the mazes of this vast forest at full gallop.
Wdl this forest never end ? I asked repeatedly. A voice from
the depths of opossum-skins answered me once more, that the
Swedes were beginning to think (so popular is the " forest
hair" of their mountains) that the face of their country would
soon be bald. We had seen many sturdy men at work in the
depths of these great solitudes — many woodmen refusing to
spare any tree ; but then their material appeared to exist in
incalculable quantities ! Companies of charcoal-burners passed
us on their loaded sledges, aU singing a very monotonous air ;
one, however, that their flikas probably considered equivalent
in effect to Mozart, sung hy Mario ; and so may they continue
to sing, and may I not continue to be within hearing! But
it is chiefly of these terrible charcoal-burners that Swedish
economists have a dread. It is feared that they wiU consume
aU the vegetation of the country in their rapacious pits ; that
they will darken, with smoke and charcoal-dust, the entire
surface of the country.
But I am not an economist ; and if I share these fears, it
is because I should be sorry to see the country bared — these
splendid soUtudes intruded upon. Here, says an enthusiastic
Swede in the depth of his forest, here may a Scandinavian
Manchester arise. Rather, I reply, be content and hug nature
reverentiaUy, and live on as you are. Forest thoughts are in
every way as good as Manchester thoughts, — the song of the
lark as enlivening and as useful as the whirr of the shuttle.
The forest surely will never end, I thought, as still we
scampered over hiUs through its winding roads. My thoughts

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 125
wandered, I remember, then, to other forests : to those great
soUtudes of America, and to Epping forest! But here the
traveUer has not the splendid richness of the American forests,
the everchanging foliage, the thousand tints always shifting
as he passes onward. A saunter only a few hundred yards
from a New Brunswick settlement will suddenly bring you
to a barrier of trees, firmly rooted, side by side, in the se
verest military order, and you are told that that (pointing
between the crevices of the trees) is your way into the forest.
The reflection at once flashes through your mind, that the
famed Daniel Lambert would have been an indifferent back
woodsman. In a Swedish forest this gentleman might have
wandered leisurely enough. However, my thoughts were in
a North American wilderness, a few hundred miles away from
the most distant approach to the comforts of civiUsation ; and
I had a strong resolution (being comfortably in a carriage, a
long way off from my thoughts) to make the best of matters.
With one of those desperate efforts which rapidly pump the
blood into your face, a way is forced through the barrier.
We are in a vast soUtude. The chirp of the birds is heard at
a great height. It is March, and we are reminded that about
this season of the year the black bear, having sucked the thick
part of his paw throughout the winter, and taken no other
kind of nourishment, issues from his den in quest of more sub
stantial fare. This reflection, unpleasant at first, is soon dis-
peUed by the marveUous variety of the scene. Life in a thou
sand forms is busy about you. Pussy is changing her winter
coat of white for the grey of summer, and the fox is quietly
speculating upon the hen who is setting under your neigh
bour's shed. Say, after a quarter of an hour's scramble,
we emerge into an open space; and are surprised to find a

126 A BRAQE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
busy band of people at work. On inquiry, we shall learn that
we have surprised the workers of a maple-sugary. In these
noble maples about twenty holes "have been bored, -and are
bleeding into a trough! Hereabouts, in kettles over brisk
fires, this maple blood is being prepared for human purposes.
Well, we pass on, leave behind us graceful rows of silver ma
ple, that look like fairies' wands planted amid the stunted
grey oaks, and overshadowed by the majestic butternut trees,
rearing their lofty heads eighty feet from the earth, sheltering
the flowery dog-wood. On the rising ground shoots the tall
and slender canoe-birch, surrounded by black spruce and hem
lock, and enjoying for a splendid neighbour the yellow birch,
with a stem like a shaft of gold. This kingly timber disdains
to shoot out a branch at less height than forty feet from the
earth. From this splendid tree comes that subtly-scented oil
from which Russian leather obtains its peculiar odour. Here
and there we come across a specimen of the iron- wood tree:
individuals of the white and red elm famiUes rearing their
lofty crests sometimes one hundred feet from their roots.
These are varieties which enliven a ramble in an American
wilderness; but in a Scandinavian wilderness the soUtude is
awful, is grand, but is not beautiful. It does not tend to raise
the spirits : it does not exhibit Nature in her hoUday dress, but
rather in " puritanic stays," — stern and unbending, and with
out apparent tenderness.
These reflections served to keep me awake, and to make
me a very dull companion, tiU we suddenly issued from the
forest into a park. In a few minutes we saw the house, gaily
lighted up, that we were approaching, and where we were to
find shelter for the night.
I remember vividly the warm greeting that awaited us in

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 127
the haU of Herr N.'s house. I remember, too, the good-nature
with which our host showed us to our rooms (warm and snug,
and briUiantly lighted), where he left us to prepare ourselves
for our entry into the drawing-room. We were in a very fair
specimen of a Swedish gentleman's country mansion. It was
constructed entirely of wood ; but was so exceUently put toge
ther, that it was one of the warmest and most comfortable
houses I have ever had the fortune to enjoy. The rooms were
lofty : the approaches to the rooms, spacious : the general ap
pearance, solid and elegant. I should say that the entire
building contained about twenty apartments ; and I was told
that such a house can be built in Sweden for about one thou
sand pounds sterling : the cost in England would be about
4000Z. Our traveUing companion Herr M. came to usher the cap
tain and myself into the presence of the circle of friends assem
bled in the drawing-room. The evening we spent with these
friends was a most pleasant one: all the ladies spoke a Uttle
English, and we talked of the architecture of the old Norwe
gian churches; of the Great Exhibition of 1851 (which was
even here a stock subject) ; of the Scotch families settled and
flourishing in Sweden; of the-inconveniences of Swedish travel
ling, and the conveniences of English railways. Then Herr
M. sang some quaint national songs, played some national airs ;
and then we went down stairs to supper, which the guests ate
as they walked about the room and chatted with their neigh
bours. It was a substantial and elegant meal, closed by the
production of some hot chocolate, that was very refreshing.
After supper we returned to the drawing-room, and examined
the collection of Swedish painters it contained. I noticed
some exceUent pictures of fhe Webster school, but nothing of

128 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
a very high character. Yet the art-collection contained a
group by SergeU worth a long journey: it was one of the ce
lebrated pieces of this great man. Of Sergell, however, I shall
have something to say presently.
After a sound night's rest I was roused to resume the jour
ney to Orebro. The day was cold, and from my bed-room
window I saw the forest stretching far away, powdered with
snow. I heard the clanking of the iron-works in the rear of
the house, and presently saw our carriage, foUowed by a sledge,
come rattling along the crisp road up to the front door. An
exceUent breakfast was concluded by a glass of port handed to
each guest ; for which we, who were about to be nine hours in
the frosty air, were particularly thankful. We took leave of
our kind host and hostess, (a young couple just returned from
a wedding-tour through Italy,) and having been carefully
packed up, re-entered our carriage, and to the waving of one
or two handkerchiefs, drove into the forest, and on our way to
Orebro. I remember that I was particularly pleased when this day's
journey was brought to a successful conclusion, and we were
fairly installed in the posting-inn of Orebro. We had suffered
a dull day's work. Here and there the scenery was fine, with
its wealth of tumbling waters, its wooded hills, and its solemn
rocks ; here and there it was exceUently cultivated : but gene
rally it resembled so closely the scenery which we had seen so
often, that it was monotonous to us. We contrived to spend a
pleasant hour at the posting-station where we dined; but as
we approached our destination we felt jaded, and, as a friend
loves to say, " languid as yesterday's roses."
We knew when we were approaching the town, by the
number of sledges we passed. And here I may remark that

THREE DAYS IN THE FROST. 129
sledging, on a peasant's sledge, is fraught with ever-recurring
Uttle dangers that are apt to mar the pleasure of this mode of
travelling. An unskilful driver wiU probably' be thrown into
the road at least six times in a day's journey ; and although these
falls are not of a severe nature, they are sufficiently unpleasant
to make the traveUing distasteful. The skiU of a sledge-driver,
however, is exhibited in turning a corner. The captain told me
that on one occasion he nearly ran his sledge into that of the
king ; and that he actuaUy did upset a poor woman out of her
sledge in the presence of royalty. He spoke with warmth of
the unaffected kindness with which the king came to the wo
man's aid ; he dwelt also with enthusiasm upon the cheapness
of the Swedish hospital-charges, where the old lady was treated
at his expense.
At the Orebro posting-inn we took leave, for the night, of
Herr M., and were at once shown to our rooms, — large, lofty
apartments, with the buds of the pine strewn about them, as I
learned to my cost when I had removed my boots. Imagine a
bed-room covered with tin-tacks, and you may have some idea
of a Swedish bed-room sprinkled with fir-buds !

CHAPTER VIL

THE SWEDES AT TABLE.

I haye promised to write a special chapter on Scandinavian
society, taken from that very interesting point of view, — the
dinner-table. Rather, I have promised to devote a chapter
to Scandinavian gastronomy, — to the great Norse genius as
developed in Norse kitchens of tbe present day. The task
is not an easy one. A man may flirt with many subjects ;
but when he approaches a dinner-table, and pretends to be
critical, he must be very solemn indeed. A pun is very well,
thrown at a minister; but thrown at a .scientific cook, it is dis
graceful. FUppant sentences may serve to describe a nation,
but never to describe a dinner. Therefore I am not in love
with the chapter before me. I might as vainly invoke the
spirits of Vatel, of Ude., of Savarin, to aid me, as poets of a cer
tain school call for the tuneful Nine, not one of whom attend
the summons nine hundred times in a thousand. I might cry,
" Oh, for the shade of Brillat de Savarin !" but I am certain
that the. supplication would not help me to a single fact —
would not furnish me with a solitary excuse for omitting the
impending contribution to the literature of gastronomy. Just,
then, as I started from Stockholm one Sunday, with a vague
notion that some day within that week I might reach Helsing
borg, I open this chapter with the general declaration, that
Swedish cookery is based upon French principles, and varied
by local circumstances. Soups are eternal here, as in France ;

THE SWEDES AT TABLE. 131
you may always command a variety. A general love of dis
guising food in aU kinds of sauces may be set down also as a
characteristic which the Swedes and French have in common.
The two nations share also an indifference to roasted joints;
in fact, I never saw a joint of meat throughout my travels in
the Scandinavian peninsula. A consumption of horse-flesh is
common also to both nations. In France this consumption is
disguised ; in Sweden it is acknowledged. A love of coffee is
common to the French of France and the French of Scandina
via; and here I may gratefully state, that Stockholm is not
second to Paris in the production of a reaUy excellent cup of
this aromatic refreshment. If it may be stated without dis
turbing the entente cordiale between England and France, I wdl
record my experience of the bad' coffee, the terrible concoctions
sold under this name, in many houses of the French capital.
In fact, good coffee is not very common in France.
Certainly the Swedish cookery I saw and experienced did
not appear to me to have any nationality about it. It had not
all the exquisite taste of a perfect French cuisine ; it had none
of the wholesome simplicity of an English table. In a few
dishes I could trace a certain originaUty, something exhibiting
the true original taste of the nation ; but generaUy I noticed
that a love of sauces had enchained the national palate ; that a
passion for extraordinary combinations had destroyed the hearty
national appetite. With a thermometer stationary for months
below freezing-point, you find the Swedes living upon food with
no more real strength, and warmth, and good in it than that
consisting of salmis and sautes, and all kinds of happy combi
nations of all things indigestible, which issues from a good
Parisian kitchen. A more natural food would surely be plain
meats, with some of their sustaining juices left in them. I

132 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
confess that the French style is the more pleasant; that indif
ferent joints of mutton cannot be too effectually disguised : but
I have no faith in little cutlets sailing about a yellow sea of fat;
and I enter my protest unhesitatingly against peas served up
with sugar! Shallow people pretend to assert that the cookery
of a nation forms no part of its economy that is worthy of a
stranger's attention; others vehemently assert (and I strongly
believe with some show of justice) that you may make some
very shrewd remarks on a state, seeing it from its kitchen.
A breakfast in Sweden is certainly a substantial meal.
Generally you wdl find your caterer has provided a Swedish
beefsteak (which I have already described), a hen-roost of
eggs, some exceUent fresh butter, and some fine bread, also
sweet bread. At breakfast, tea is as often taken as coffee.
With these provisions no ordinary man can fail to make an
excellent preparatory meal for the day. Breakfast is an early
ceremony in Sweden.
About two o'clock the Swedes generally dine. The H6tel
de Su§de, in the Drotning-gatan, is so like a Parisian restau
rant, that no description of it is necessary : I may merely re
mark, that the frame extending the entire length of the prin
cipal room, and covered with furs of all kinds belonging to the
diners, and the countless over-boots, of the most extraordinary
shapes and proportions, scattered about the floor, are the only
features of the place that prevent a stranger from fancying him
self in the Palais Royal. The tables are arranged in the same
manner round the room. There is the comptoir, after the Paris
fashion, where some person presides in state ; but here flikas,
gaily dressed (also on the French model), wait upon the guests.
Even the carte closely resembles those mysterious Parisian
volumes in which so many men are deeply read. The dishes,

THE SWEDES AT TABLE. 133
however, show slight variations. For instance, the H6tel de
SuSde offers to its visitors some of the fine fish peculiar to the
great Scandinavian lakes — the capercailzie, brought frozen
from the north; and the deUghtful wood-partridge, dearly loved
by all who have visited Sweden. Of these the visitor may
partake, have his preliminary brand-vin, and with it his snacks
of bread and dried fish and caviar; and with his dinner a
bottle of exceUent beer, for about two rix — less than half-
a-crown! All these things are well served; but the fish is in
variably swimming in hot butter, and is thus spoUed. The
rye-bread, which the diners eat in large thin biscuits, is really
and truly an invention worth the attention of gourmets. It
gives a zest to the appetite during those pauses between the
courses, which are so trying to the epicure's temper ; it clears
the mouth to enjoy the wine; and its digestive properties also
recommend it.
There are one or two clubs in Stockholm where excellent
dinners may be had, where the choicest wines may be procured,
with a proper production of doUars rix ; and there are one or
two suburban establishments, as celebrated in the Swedish
capital as Blackwall and the Richmond Star and Garter are
in London. I visited one of these suburban establishments
in company with five friends, including the Captain, Poppy
head, and Herr M  . Here we certainly had an elegantly-
served dinne'r, ordered with exceUent taste by Herr M 
The wines were very good, and here we tasted some reaUy
good coffee ; and we went merrily back to Stockholm, about
eleven o'clock at night, along the white gUstening roads,
covered with snow, hard as iron, and shining in the brilliant
moonlight : — past the dark waters of the Malar lake rushing
to the Baltic : — down the long Drotning-gatan to the hotel

134 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH TEE SWEDES.
meublee. We passed very few sledges on our road, with
their sUver beds ringing their occupants merrily homewards
through the clear sharp air.
Private dinners in Sweden may, as I have written, be cha
racterised as based upon French culinary principles, improved
or damaged, according to individual taste, by Swedish genius.
Game is served at odd times. You get iced punch in the
course of dinner, which is very good. A fish-pie is offered to
you when you think dinner is over; and you have neither
cheese nor dessert. The wines generally are abundant and
exceUent: — as with us, port and sherry are the prevailing fa
vourites. The mode of drinking wine is peculiar. Your friend
first deposits a little wine in his glass, then fills yours, and then
fills his up. You bow, drink off aU the wine in the glass, then
incline the glass towards your friend, to show that it is empty,
and then bow a second time. This -proceeding requires cau
tion, or terrible consequences may ensue to the diner who can
not take wine with impunity. The gentlemen, however, sel
dom or never ask the ladies to join them.
In a chapter on the Swedes at table, I should remark that
they eat very few sweets, but that the pastry they do have is
generally light and elegant. I remember particularly some
cold pancakes, stuffed with apples, which the Count produced
one frosty morning at a posting-station, on our way from Ore
bro to Stockholm; which we gravely shared with a gentleman
high in office at the Swedish court; and which we all enjoyed.
You, Count, ate four, I remember.
My travels in Sweden have possibly suggested to the reader
already, that in the country places, at roadside inns, the cookery
is not that which I can conscientiously praise, except always
for its cleanliness. I never saw a soded cloth, or a dirty spoon

THE SWEDES AT TABLE. 135
or fork, throughout my Scandinavian travels. There is one
concoction, however, produced with some ceremony as an attrac
tive luxury, upon which I must write a few words. This con
coction is called fruit-soup. It has exactly the appearance of
thin glue,, with dark lumps floating about it. Its component
parts are plums, apples, and other incongruous substances, all
stewed together. This fruit-soup, slimy, and wonderfully un
pleasant to the taste, is eagerly inquired for at the posting-
stations by Swedish travellers. I saw Herr M  dispatch a
pint of it with remarkable zest. He told me it was very whole
some. I had already come to the conclusion that it must be,,
as it was repulsively unpalatable.
Swedish potatoes deserve a passing remark. They are
about the size of marbles, and are generally fried very deli-'
cately. I might write a very instructive paragraph on the
subject of Swedish pork; but I refrain. I will say, however,
that I advise all tourists to imitate the strictest Jews in the
matter of pork throughout their Scandinavian travels.
These are, in a few words, my experiences of Scandinavian
cookery. The abundant game and splendid fish of the penin^
sula rescue the cuisine of the Swede from insignificance. The
perseverance with which the capercailzie and wood- partridge
are pursued and eaten, threatens, I should think, to make these
birds as wonderful to the eyes of future naturalists as the dodo.
The national address to these devoted birds seems to resemble
in spirit that supposed to have been issued by Louis the Six
teenth, and addressed to the poultry, game, &e. destined for his
table.* And while there is yet time, may not a second attempt
* " H faudra done vous croquer tous !
Tel est eu bref mon manifests ;
Sur la sauce deeidez vous,— .
Mon cuisinier fera le reste."

136 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
be made to domesticate the capercailzie ? I should recommend
the wild gentlemen who are now fanaticaUy worshipping the
golden plumage and feathery trousers of Cochin China fowls,
and discussing vehemently the proper length of deaf ears, to
turn their attention presently to the domestication of these fine
northern birds. I wiU not trust myself with a description of
the capercailzie as he appears, in a solemn moment, at the
dinner-table. A description, when weU done, is only tantalis
ing ; therefore I leave one of these noble birds, in his proper
sauce, to the vivid imagination of the reader. The wood-
partridge I decUne to desecrate with a single sentence of
criticism. And so I bring my short chapter on the Swedes at table to
a close, with the Dutch salutation to the tantaUsed reader,—
" Smaakeylt eeten ! " (May you eat a hearty dinner !)

CHAPTER VIII.

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO.

Long before daylight dawns, noises are heard about a Swedish
inn. If there be a bell in the place, it is rung ; if there be no
bell, loud voices travel about the long passages, and down the
broad staircases. Your own room is unceremoniously opened,
and the great stove in the corner blazes Uke a burning forest
in little. Sledges go jingUng by; post-boys scream; travellers,
according to the extent of their passion, shout a thousand or
ten thousand devils ; and the bustle only subsides a little as the
day coldly breaks. I will remark here, that the Swedes have a
very national method of swearing. Thus, if I were on a Scan
dinavian highroad, and were in the way of a traveller, he might
possibly shout from his sledge, "A thousand devils!" If I were
to take no heed of so insignificant a number of devils as one
thousand, he might improve his position by the exclamation,
" Ten thousand devils!" Say that I remained unmoved, even
in the face of so fearful an array, he would cap all by the
exclamation, " Ten thousand Pomeranian devils!" And then,
of course, I must let the excited gentleman pass me. This
illustration wUl explain my meaning, viz. that according to the
intensity of anger is the number of devils. A man must be in
a paroxysm of rage, however, before he commits himself with,
" Ten thousand Pomeranian devils 1" These specimens of
Swedish oaths may be of use to those gentlemen who have a.

138 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
fancy for varying their swearing, picking out a pet oath, as
they pick out a hat, for each season.
There are many points of interest about Orebro. It is the
centre of much Swedish activity. Here there is an agricul
tural society, where the improvements in modern farming are
discussed, and where Swedish gentlemen meet to detad their
experiences of the improvements they have adopted. I was
introduced to one gentleman who had the care of a model-farm
in connection with government. I was told that On this farm
might be seen, in full operation, aU the modern applications of
science to agriculture, — here, in a country of which English
men know so little. Indeed, as I advanced into Sweden, I was
daily more and more impressed with the belief, that the two
nations have only to be known one to the other to become fast
and cordial friends. In sentiment, in appearance, and in vi
gour, the two peoples have a close resemblance: they are
natural associates, whom accident has long kept apart. But I
hope to see the day when the lakes of the Scandinavian penin
sula wiU be crowded with English tourists, and when the so
ciety of many Swedish gentlemen may be habitually enjoyed
in London. Also, I think I shaU see the day when commercial
intercourse between the two nations will be fully developed for
their mutual advantage. Sweden possesses rich stores of the
materials upon which English industry feeds ; and this truth is
beginning to be generally appreciated.
Orebro, however, when I issued from the posting-station
on the morrow of my arrival, did not certainly present a very
cheerful aspect. The street, which had been coated for some
time past, I believe, with trampled snow, was now very sloppy,
the thermometer having suddenly risen some degrees above
freezing-point. Still the sledges dashed about upon the thawing

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 139
mass, or moved slowly behind oxen, laden with agricultural
produce. StiU people persevered in adopting leather clothes
from head to foot; stiUthe better classes hugged themselves in
their furs.
The town consists of one long street, here and there
breaking into a square or an irregular open place. Parts
of it, as from the bridge near the castle, where the foam
ing river rushes through the town, — and where the market
is held, opposite the picturesque church, — were extremely
pleasing. There were variety of colour, exquisitely broken
Unes, and good moving Ufe in these scenes. The houses re
minded me of a French provincial town, with their gay shut
ters, covered with devices iUustrative of the trade carried on
within. But I made these notes, it must be confessed, under
great difficulties, for my attention was chiefly directed to the
sheets of ice upon which I had to tread. It is difficult to gain
sea-legs, but to accomplish ice-legs is yet more difficult.
Therefore, in my rambles, I was compelled, for the preservation
of an uncertain equilibrium, to throw myself into the most
grotesque attitudes, to the amusement of every body except
myself. A dark and scandalous rumour was buzzed about the
town, that I had been seen making an impression of my entire
length upon the snow; but this malicious report was " devoid
of foundation," — Uke much scandal of a more disastrous na
ture. During my sUppery rambles. I gleaned many points of
bistoric interest, and saw at last in the troubled history of this
central town, a story that might weU tempt a Swede to write
aU that is known about it. Some points of it may interest
English readers. v
Orebro is situated on the summit of a sand-hiU in East
Nericia, a little more than twenty Swedish miles from Stock-

140 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
holm, and twelve from Norrkoping. The lively Trosa, whicli
dashes across its long street, comes bounding from the lakes of
Lekebergslag, winds about the castle, and then flows, turning
many flour-mills by the way, through beautiful downs to the
Hjelmaren lake. The country round about is excellently cul
tivated, and is dotted with pretty country-seats, belonging to
the owners of the rich estates situated in the vicinity. The
town itself has undergone many changes. Like most of the
Scandinavian towns, it has been consumed by fire, and its
oldest archives have been burnt. Setting aside learned con
jectures on the subject, it may be safely affirmed, that a Scan
dinavian town has existed here for at least seven hundred
years. It is certain that at the end of the eleventh century the
town was in a flourishing condition, and was the home of arti
sans, who in 1107 cast a very large and heavy church-bell for
the town ofWesteras, where it remained in use for 540 years;
when, having been damaged in toUing on the death of Gusta
vus Adolphus, this fact was made the subject of a memorial
to Queen Christiana.* The site of the town naturally points it
out as the most convenient mid-way point between the capital
of Sweden and Norway; in the olden time it was chosen pro
bably as on the Une of the most direct communication between
Sweden, Norway, and the neighbouring parts of the kingdom
of Gothia, — protected on the west by the Lekebergen mountains,
and on the east by the waters of the great Hjelmaren. Ano
ther point which probably tended to the selection of the site is,
that the Trosa near the castle has a good fording place, which
was the road of communication between the old kingdoms of
Swed and Gothia. Here, too, the Swedes naturally built a
fortress to command the only passage between the two king-
* Dated the 14th of February, 1647.

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 141
doms* " Old as the street of Orebro" is a local proverb.
But these questions are of interest chiefly to local antiquaries ;
and I must leave them to debate them. I have been betrayed
into this detail, so far as it has gone, by the personal interest I
have felt for gentlemen intimately connected with the little
town: — its struggles, and its commerce.

THE CASTLE OF OREBRO.

The town is divided into two parts, — north and south, — of
which the northern is the oldest part. The south part is said
to have been built in the dynasty of Folkungarne; but it
* The oldest documents dated "Orebro" are some letters of King
Magnus Ladulas, in the royal archives, of the years 1278 and 1279.

142 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
appears to have been considerably enlarged when the traders
of Lubeck arrived to traffic in the mineral wealth of the
mining districts round about. And in this southern part of the
town the chief commerce of the place appears to be carried
on to this day. With the exception of the pubUc buildings,
the houses are generaUy built with wood, and roofed indif
ferently with tiles or turf ; here also, therefore, the inhabitants
may not smoke in the streets. A considerable commerce has
been carried on for centuries According to Palmschbld, Ore
bro at an early period had the liberty to trade to foreign parts,
and its inhabitants actually carried on a considerable com
merce, having vessels at Sbdertelje, to trade in iron between
that port, Lubeck, Hamburg, the Netherlands, and England.
Here was the centre of the great mining districts of Nora,
Linde, Lekhyttan, Carlskoga, and Serbark. But dark times
came upon the town: a devastating fire consumed its chief
buildings, and other towns arose to compete with it. And now
again the inhabitants are expecting times of brisk commerce —
since the first Swedish railway, now being laid down, will con
nect the town with Stockholm on the east, and with Gotten
burg on the west. That this railway will revolutionise the
capital of Nericia there can be no doubt ; for here wUl be the
great centre of the vast mining operations that will arise at the
nod of the giant Steam. Already have capitalists from Eng
land invested large sums of money in the mines of Nora and
Linde, and in iron-works, to be estabUshed at Koping. These
speculations will do infinite good to the Scandinavian people,
and wUl remunerate the capitalists ; for it is now an ascertained
fact, that English coals can be delivered in the centre of Swe
den at prices far below those which Swedish charcoal fetches
there; and when to this advantage the fact is added, that sea-

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 143
coal yields eight times the heat of charcoal, the gain that
must accrue to the mining interests is proved to be enormous.
To these advantages I might add that which the railway wiU
afford in the cheap and rapid conveyance of minerals. But
these utiUtarian considerations may weary those of my readers
who have been led to this point of my story by the light and
careless tone of it, — by its mere good-humour, and the constant
endeavour on the part of the author to be jocose. But if these
will pardon me, I must explain that I have a serious as well as
a Ught purpose in my performance : I by no means wish to
write two or three hundred pages of flippant paragraphs about
the Scandinavian people, and then end my work. On the con
trary, I cherish rather the serious part of my task. I hope to
send across the North Sea, on a voyage of profitable discovery,
many of my countrymen; that they may see there is a splendid
country not far off, where competition has not done its worst;
where capital, without gambUng, may be honourably and pro
fitably invested ; and where a hearty welcome awaits aU honest
folk. This is a homely purpose I have set myself, and one I
have thought to push rather by showing, in lively touches
(that is, in touches I have endeavoured to make Uvely), the
hearty enjoyment with which I travelled over hundreds of
miles of snow ; through dark and gloomy forests ; up gaunt
granite hiUs ; along the borders of inland seas, with dark waves
lazily beating upon shores of unbroken rock. Therefore, if
I still gossip somewhat about this little town of Orebro, the
reader will possibly bear with me. Yet, as I continue, I fear fre
quently that, at tbe close of this paragraph, many a chamber-
candle wiU be lit, — many a reader here turn down the leaf
and saunter off to bed. WeU, even at this risk, I must still
repeat some of the gossip, as I heard it from various groups

144 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
assembled on a certain occasion in this Uttle central town of
Nericia ; for its history is a matter of very hot debate indeed ;
and wildly and earnestly enough men gather around here to
talk about its arms, its coins, and its archives. ' On the one
hand, the historian Messenius is dragged forward to prove that
even during the reign of King Magnus Ladulas coining was
carried on in the town ; and that the clergy of Strangnas were
the earUest known pawnbrokers of the vicinity, having re
ceived some coin stamped at Orebro as a pledge from the king.
On the other hand, Brenner is made to prove that the coin
(No. 1) showing the head of Queen Margaret on one side, and
the letter O (the initial, it is conjectured, of the town), was
stamped at Orebro. This fact having been settled to the satis
faction of certain gentlemen, it is said to foUow that the coins
marked 2, 3, 4, 5, copies of which are to be found amongst
Ehrenpreu's collection of ancient coins at Upsala, must also be
the produce of Orebro. But the debate concludes when the
Orebro coin (No. 9) of the time of king Enius of Pomerania is
produced, and antiquaries are requested to explain the mean
ing of the letters S. T. R. 1. 0. or T. R. I. O. And I, having no
particular penchant for the study of old coins, and being quite
willing to give the credit of all the old coinage of the Scandi
navian peninsula to Enius of Pomerania, provided a sufficient
quantity of the current coin be always in my keeping, — I say,
I, being in this vulgar state of mind, am not sorry to hear the
antiquarians brought to a dead halt.
What if I saunter to that group in a distant corner of the
saloon ? I have heard now and then a laugh ring through the
room from this direction ; but I find the group talking seriously
now, or not very lightly. The question is the commerce of
Orebro. A learned old gentleman is descanting on the ancient

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 145
right enjoyed by the town to fit out ships, and pointing to the
resolution passed by Charles the Ninth in 1604, stiU existing
among the archives of the town, which gives to Orebro the
permission to trade by sea to aU foreign towns, whether friendly
or unfriendly. A liberal permission this, I thought, for 1604!
And then the old gentleman complained bitterly of the mer
chants from Lubeck, who, in the olden time, spread themselves
Uke locusts over the richest mineral districts of Sweden, and
sucked from the inexperienced inhabitants aU that was valuable
in the country. But the time came, according to this old gen
tleman, when the Swedes began to be traders in their turn, and
to drive better bargains; and then Stockholm arose amid a
hundred islands, to rival in the icy north the island city of the
south — rto give a welcome to Dalecarlian boat- women, who
may vie in picturesque effept with the gondola tenanted by its
swarthy proprietor. And when Stockholm rose into import
ance, and the privileges of towns were granted to Nord, Linde,
PhiUpstad, Christineham, and Askersund, the foreign com
merce and the inland trade of Orebro feU and dwindled. But
it recovered again, and is now steady. Its chief iron-trade, I
should say, is with Stockholm ; for when the price of iron at
Gottenburg is higher than at Stockholm, the iron-masters of
Wermland ship the ore at Christineham ; and when the highest
prices are quoted from the capital, the place of shipment is at
Orebro. But soon, I thought, the railway wiU alter all this ;
soon these slow old gentlemen wiU find it necessary to be on
the alert all day, or their sons will. They wiU find crowds of
strangers about their wealthy town eager to buy and carry off
its precious commodity ; they wiU see the hard faces of Bir
mingham and London peering through their office-windows.

146 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
I wiU not say that I envy them the visitation; but I hope to,
congratulate them upon its pecuniary result.
I joined the group; and to divert the conversation from
iron to something a little lighter, I asked whether fairs were
held in Sweden. I found that there is a great gathering,
called the Henricksmarso, every January, in the depth of a
Swedish winter, and one that lasts for eight days. There are
also an annual Larsmarso ox-market and a Matsmarso ox-
market — one in August and one in September — each of which
lasts only one day. There is also, I may here write, a Satur
day market, at which aU the peasants seU their country pro
duce, and buy town commodities — some tea, and coffee, and
sugar, and probably -tobacco. These peasants flock to the town
upon their narrow sledges from the provinces of Sudermannia,
Westgothia, Ostogothland, and Nericia.
Having heard thus much about the fairs, I asked the num
ber of inhabitants. In 1750, the population was 2215; it is
now between 5000 and 6000, in round numbers. Even here,
then, where there has been no great stimulus in trade, no great
commercial energy among the people, the population has nearly
trebled itself in a century. I wandered away thmking of this
— thinking of the far-off time to come when no soUtude may
be found throughout the world; wondering how this great
scheme, always advancing, " spinning hourly'' down " the
ringing grooves of change," wiU end — whether the awful
increase of the human family will be stayed by some tremen
dous agency, or continue tiU every acre of God's ground shaU
find its human owner. Truly, when this question seizes upon
you, and turns you rudely about to face it, and wiU not let
you go, and insists that you wUl think it out, the boldest spe-

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 147
culator trembles, and is not glib with his answer. But here,
in a gay saloon, with kind voices about me, and kind faces
bidding me welcome from every corner of it, I could not be
gloomy nor very thoughtful; and so the reader has escaped a
very dull disquisition.
I now joined a group of gentlemen who were discussing the
probability of finding coal in the vicinity of Orebro. The geo
logical authority of the place was very glib on the subject. He
found that the geological strata near Orebro were very like that
in the coal-districts of England; , and he informed me that this
analogy led to the formation of a coal-company in the year
1777, which made borings for coal on the English plan, but
was suddenly stopped for want of capital, having pierced eigh
teen different layers of sandstone. At Garphyttan, an exten
sive bed of clay, exactly Uke that found in English coal-pits
at Whitby, was reached; but at this point the operations were
suspended for want of capital, and they have never been re
sumed up to this time. And at this point of the conversation
1 I broke from this group of gossips to join a very serious co
terie, of which Poppyhead was the centre; and Poppyhead,
having had two consecutive nights of unbroken rest, and it
being at the time not later than nine o'clock, was actually
awake. He was even interested in the serious information
that was being communicated to him; and there was strong
human interest in the conversation, for its subject was the
career of an iUustrious native of the town, who, born a black
smith's son in 1497, lived to do good and useful work to his
country, to receive lessons from Luther, and to make good use
of them afterwards.
Let me repeat the story. Olavus Petri studied first at
the CarmeUte monastery of Orebro, which he left in company

148 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
with his brother, Laurentius Petri, to repair to Wittenberg.
Here he met Luther; and from the great reformer learned
those religious truths which have civiUsed the world. He
graduated at the university of Wittenberg, and returned to
Sweden in 1519, when he was made Cancellarius Episcopi to
Bishop Mats Gregerson in Strengnas, and shortly afterwards
Diaconus and Canih. Having had another step, he proceeded
with his brother to attend upon Bishop Mats at the coronation
of King Christian. WhUe on this expedition they nearly feU
victims to a terrible massacre. The story runs, that the exe
cutioner's arm was already Ufted for the death-stroke, when a
German loudly exclaimed that they were Germans, and inno
cent ; and so saved their heads. Olavus preached before Gus
tavus the First at Strengnas ; and the king Ustened to the
preacher's denunciations of the Popish priesthood — listened,
and did not take Olavus for an enemy. Nor did many others ;
for in 1524 Olavus was appointed secretary to the town-coun-
cU of Stockholm ; and having fulfiUed the duties of this post
during seven years, was married, in the presence of King Gus- '
tavus, to a lady of high birth. On this occasion, it is~ said,
mass was sung in the Swedish language for the first time. He
seems also to have been the victor, at Upsala and Westeras,
over Doctor Peter GaUe, in controversies on Popish doctrine.
He appears to have been loaded with honours by the king. At
the coronation he officiated as herald; and in 1531 the great
seal was intrusted to him. But these temporal duties wearied
the heart of the reformer. That reformed reUgion which he
loved, he longed to administer and propound from the pulpit.
Accordingly, in 1539, he took holy orders, and became the spi
ritual director of a Stockholm parish. While in this position
he became impUcated in a conspiracy that had its origin in

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 149
Lubeck; or rather he was privy to this conspiracy, and had
been imprudent enough not to reveal his secret. For this
offence, in those hard times, death was the solemn penalty, and
to this Olavus was condemned. And here, about his scaffold,
did the good people of Stockholm raise loud voices on behalf
of their earnest preacher; and five hundred pieces of Hunga
rian gold were offered as the price to save the Orebro peasant's
head. His life was spared, but his parish was taken from him.
In the year 1543, however, his place was restored to him; and
from his parish pulpit and elsewhere, up to the close of his
vigorous and useful life, this child of the Orebro blacksmith,
who had raised himself to be the keeper of the seals, and had
resigned the gUtter of these to be once more the exponent of
Luther's reformed faith to his countrymen, repeUed, with all
the eloquence of which he was capable, the attempts of the
Papists to undo the glorious work of the Reformation. WeU
might Poppyhead listen to so good a story of a life; well might
his friends of Orebro be glad to teU it. Olavus died in 1552.
Something remains to be told of Laurentius, who, having
been with his brother during the early years of their life, left
him to take the professorship of theology at Upsala. Here
he taught the reformed faith, and with success so conspicuous,
that his feUow-teachers turned from the spirit of the holy
lessons to envy the distinguished Professor Petri. This uncha-
ritableness was properly met by the king. The professor has
found enemies among his brethren because of his superior abi-
Uties : let him henceforth be permanent rector over them.
Here, at Upsala, the two brothers vindicated, before the high
clergy of this seat of learning, the doctrines of Luther, and ex
posed those of Rome. The two were excommunicated j but

150 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
they survived the excommunication, like many more good men.
The king thought it weU to bring the rival disputants to a de
cisive conflict. He ordered Laurentius to draw up in a formal
document the essential points of difference between the doc
trines of Rome and those of Luther. Bishop Brask, the boldest
of the Papal champions, was chaUenged to refute and destroy
these differences, or to argue upon them, that thus, from 'the
controversy of partisanship, some wholesome truth might be
produced for the real advantage of the world ; but Brask de
clined the contest.
In 1531 Laurentius Petri was made the first Evangelic
Archbishop of Sweden ; and two days afterwards he officiated
at the coronation and nuptials of Katharine of Saxe Lauenburg,
who married Gustavus the First. At the close of these cere
monies the king expressed his gratitude to this noble Swede,
by giving him in marriage EUzabeth Mattsdatter — a noble
lady connected with the royal family. Laurentius also offici
ated at the marriage of the king with Margaret Leijonhafond ;
and a third time, when the same king married , Katharine
Stonbock. He did good with the wealth of his position. He main
tained fifty students ; printed many good books ; and, in con
junction with Laurentius Andras, translated the Bible into
Swedish, and had it printed in the year 1541. He Uved to
see many changes. He travelled in 1557 to Moscowa to ne
gotiate peace, and distinguished himself there in a controversy;
he officiated at the coronation of King Enius XIV. at Upsala,
in 1566 ; he crowned John the Third and Queen Katharine
Jagellonica ; he "wrote against the Jesuits from his bed when
they were strong at court ; and died in his seventy -fifth year ;

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 151
but his memory is stiU green, it appears, in the hearts of all
Swedes, but particularly in those of Orebro. This, it must be
confessed, was a history to talk about.
The peasant has no chance in the game of life, mutters the
surly politician of a certain school even in the present day.
Let him think of the time when the brothers Petri flourished,
pushed their way from ah Orebro anvd to the throne-room, by
the sturdy use of their intellectual force ; and say how it aU
happened, according to his theory. Always, under a despot
ism or a repubUc, or both, for they have been seen together,
the strong man Uffcs his head where it may be seen, and its
inteUigence be acknowledged by aU about him. At this mo
ment in Sweden, a man who began Ufe as a sergeant is the
honoured governor of a province, with his sergeant's medal
stiU proudly hanging upon his breast 1
And so good night to our friends of Orebro,. or Poppyhead
wiU be musical in a way that is not generaUy gratifying to a
social circle.
The morning of the day on which I left Orebro I leaned
over the bridge that spans the noisy and rapid Trosa, before
the castle. It is an "old historic place, with stories in every
chamber of it. It has been the residence of many kings, pro
bably the scene of many passages of Ufe not pleasant to recall.
Here, I am reminded by a friend at my elbow, Uved Charles
IX., while Duke of Sudermannia. Here Sten Sture en
sconced himself to the inconvenience of the Queen Dowager of
King Christophorus of Bavaria. The castle is associated with
the name of Engelbrecht Engelbrechtsson ; and hence Magnus
Ericsson issued a general common law for Sweden. Here, in
1540, before the drawn sword of Gustavus, Sweden was made
an hereditary monarchy, and the oath of aUegiance was £akfi&

152 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH "THE SWEDES.
Here Gustavus Adolphus was declared of age, and solemnly
armed by his father with weapons which he nobly used.
Here, in short, many solemn assemblies have been held ; here
many Diets have determined upon laws. Hence this big castle,
with foaming waters about it, is a place to look seriously upon.
It has been taken by the Danes; it has been besieged by
Engelbrecht Engelbrechtsson ; it was nearly destroyed by
Olavus Bonde in the time of Gustavus I. These matters,
hinted to me as I leaned over the bridge, were interesting.
And then, when I had made slides to the southern part of
the town, on my way to the carriage that was to carry me
with Poppyhead and Count R  to Stockholm, I was once
more brought to a halt before the old church, built, it is
thought, about the end of the fourteenth century. It contains
some old paintings and monuments, and is the tomb of some
eminent patriots. First of these, Swedes always mention En
gelbrecht Engelbrechtsson, the brave man of the fifteenth cen
tury, — who led the Dalecarlians against the cruel Danish go
vernors, — who, on behalf the Danish people, dictated terms
to Ericus of Pommerania, and with his strong arm kept him
to them. This fine man was murdered upon an island of the
Hjelmaren lake, where he was resting for the night on his
way to, Stockholm. He seems to have been in all essentials
a great man.
And now fareWeU to the gossips of Orebro, to its pleasant
stories, and its pleasant people ; its sUppery streets, and its
frosty markets ; its roomy posting-station, and Lota, the flika
thereof, who sits twisting worsted, to be woven in fhe long
nights of this winter.
Let us pack up in our furs and be off; for there is a long,
long toad before us even now ; and our fbrbud has been gone

SLIDES ABOUT OREBRO. 153
ahead many hours to warn the station-masters by the way of
our approach.
We draw some rein- deer skins closely about our feet, and
so wave our hats to the good friends we made ; and in a minute
the ice flies about like broken glass from under our coach-
wheels.

CHAPTER IX.
THE SWEDISH PEASANTRY.
I am not incUned to pronounce a pompous opinion on the Swe
dish peasantry ; to examine into their grievances ; to. assail the
classes above them; to pity their servitude; and to deplore the
general aspect of the social scenes on which they move. Yet
I may teU how far I really observed them ; and repeat the
stories of them which I gleaned from some of their most in
telligent countrymen.
In the first place, most people know that the peasants
are effectually represented in the government of their coun
try. Here there is no need of freehold-land societies, and
other machinery, for warring against class legislation ; since
there exists truly a House of Peasants, as powerful to make
law as any other body in the state ; a house that threw out
unanimously the first and only railway-biU that has ever
been presented to them. Of this house, and its simple dig
nity, I heard many anecdotes in the course of my travels.
It literaUy consists of peasants who guide the plough over
their native fields, clad in rustic guise, presenting themselves
in Stockholm as legislators, and as simple rustics. They are
in no way cowed by the gUtter about them. They do their
work for their class honestly and thoroughly ; and indicate
before the rest of Europe, not excepting England, the capacity
for sound legislation that resides in all great working popu
lations. In this Ught they assume a dignified position, which
no thoughtful stranger traveUing through their villages should

THE SWEDISH PEASANTRY. 155
for one moment forget. They have aU claims to his respect.
In all their homes Ue books they can read ; for the Lutheran
priest will not marry them tiU they can understand the mean
ing of a printed page, and write their name. To compare the
Swedish peasantry with the best portion of our Irish peasantry
would be to insult the Scandinavian people. Therefore let
not Englishmen approach the kingdom of the most accom
plished prince in Europe, with any feeUng that he is a highly
civilised individual about to cast a patronising glance at a
state of affairs that will remind him of the dark ages of his
own country. A broad and distinct Une separates the noble
from the burgher, and the burgher from the peasant in Swe
den ; yet I found that the nobles are always ready to grasp
by the hand any member of either of the classes below them
in station, who has done the state any signal service, or raised
himself from poor obscurity to affluent celebrity. Surely this
Uberality is as enlightened at least as that practised in " en
lightened England" at this hour ! The Swedish aristocratic
body may be imbued with strong prejudices, which wordd not
be very mercifully judged at a Chartist meeting ; but at least
they have a hearty reception always ready for the men who
deserve the national gratitude.
As I have said, a broad and distinct line separates classes
in Sweden ; yet I observed a hearty good-will pervading the
entire people. The Swedish noble has certain privUeges over
the Swedish peasant, which would not be, aUowed in this
country; but the Swedish noble talks with his servants freely,
and it is rare to see, on the part of the servant, that debasing
shyness which is often exhibited by a free Briton without
a riband at his button-hole, in the presence of a free Briton
with a riband in his button-hole. There is a natural good-

156

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

breeding in the Swedish peasant — a deference towards those
above him — but no awkwardness. Thus, judging the condition
of the Swedish peasant by his actual experiences rather than
by the statutes which exist to bind him, I am incUned to think
that he leads a happy Ufe ; that paths of honour are fairly
open to him ; that his physical wants are not Ul-suppUed ; and
that he has not much to complain of. Here is a group of
peasants from a carriage-window.

It is widely known, I beUeve, that the great proportion of
the cultivated land of Sweden is in the hands of the peasantry.
For centuries it has been in their possession, and has descended
from sire to son regularly, the chUdren sharing it equaUy.

THE SWEDISH PEASANTRY. 157
Whether or not this .system of subdivision of land be conducive
to the best interests of agriculture is a large question, compre
hending the systems of great and Uttle farms, touching gently
upon manure, involving the consideration of guano, bordering
on the theory of free trade, and generally assembUng • about it
the many separate elements of social economy. Therefore the
reader wiU readdy excuse me from enlarging upon the poUcy
of the Swedish laws as they affect the distribution of landed
property. I will state only my experience, and here end. The
Swedish peasantry are not, I should think, the best farmers of
Sweden. They have neither the energy nor the capital neces
sary to foUow successfully the rapid improvements in modern
agriculture ; therefore these improvements are adopted chiefly
by the upper class — by the nobles, or by wealthy merchants.
In the north, in fact, the peasants stiU scratch their land with
the rudest conceivable plough, and leave to nature the care of
their precarious crops. They receive only scanty supplies of
money, their wages from large farmers being generaUy paid
in food ; but their money is of little use to them, except to
buy" the betrothal ring, and add one or two town luxuries to
the "cottage. In Swedish homesteads every thing is home-made. The
stuffs for female dress are grown on the adjoining land, and
woven during the long and dreary winter nights : the hus
band's suit is homespun ; the boots of the family are the handi
work of the father. Thus money is not a necessary ; yet it
is coveted pretty generally. I know, at least, that the peasants
who assemble about a travelling-carriage at a posting-station
are not usuaUy characterised by a disregard of skiUings. A
dirty rix has a charm for a Swede's eye, as a shUUng is always
a welcome sight to an Englishman. In fact, a peasantry may

158 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
be well housed, and well fed, and very primitive, and enjoy
a famiUarity with the alphabet, without suggesting Arcadia
to any passing tourist. In travelUng twelve hundred miles
through the country, I saw many varieties of peasant life. I
passed comfortable and spacious farm-houses ; I passed also
very indifferently constructed log-huts, with patches of groimd
scratched about them, and begging children shouting from the
door- ways : — but I must fairly state that I noticed no positive
squalor ; I saw no glazed eyes and sunken cheeks ; I heard no
voices hollow with chronic misery ; I saw no dwelUng that
could be mistaken for the abode of pigs ; I heard of no prizes
offered for peasants who had brought up incredibly large and
healthy families upon incredibly small earnings ; yet I saw no
positive beggary. It rather appeared to me that I passed
many indications of healthy social germs promising glorious
national developments- — -not deeply-seated social errors, to be
rooted out after many struggles. At present, the peasantry
are generally inert, content to farm the family land, and live,
and marry, and die thereon; to sip finkel at the posting-
station of the native village, gape at the adventurous travel
lers who may pass its doorway, and curse them occasionally
for their reckless treatment of their horses.
Yet now and then a peasant rises from his station, accu
mulates a considerable fortune, and mixes with the best
society in the country. I remember that, as we travelled
along the banks of the dark Wenern, with a dense forest on
one side of us, Herr M  pointed out to me in the distance
a commanding castle, embosomed in a splendid forest, and
towering upon the crest of a lofty hiU over the surrounding
landscape. " That castle," said Herr M  , " is the property and

THE SWEDISH PEASANTRY. 159
dwelling of a peasant." I was interested, and asked particu
lars. Herr M  described to me distinctly the gradual rise
of the man from the condition of an average peasant to his
present wealth. He speculated, if I remember weU, in land ;
and made money by the extensive distUlation of that spirit
which is the curse of the country. He now owns extensive
estates ; but stiU retains his peasant rank, and is visited by
peasants. The peasant has not endeavoured to ape the man
ners of the born noble — has not descended to be a parvenu —
has not, Uke a cotton lord, cut his early associates to become
the tolerated visitor in Belgravia ; but has vindicated the native
dignity of his class by remaining one of it. He does not seek
to hide from public knowledge the times when he played the
part of fbrbud fo men whose patrimony he can now buy at any
moment; he is content to enjoy honestly what he has won, and
to hold honestly to a class to which he knows honour is due
in as full a proportion as to any other. I do not here de
scribe the successful peasant from positive knowledge, but from
a natural inference.
I remember . also, that when we were approaching Hult,
Herr M  pointed out to me a magnificent mansion, which
he also described as till lately in the possession of a peasant.
The estate belonging to it extended for mUes away on every
side. The peasant in whose possession it had lately been had
married one of the celebrated beauties of Sweden ; and was, at
the time we were passing, living in retirement in the depths
of a forest not far off. In the spring of 1852, he became a
bankrupt, having over-speculated. WhUe in prosperous cir
cumstances he was visited by many of the distinguished circles
of Sweden ; and his peasant parents lived in a decent cottage
opposite his splendid dwelling, sunning themselves in the

160 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
warmth of his prosperity, but always refusing to live in any
house unlike the wooden cottage to which they were born. To
me there is something true and good in this feeUng — some
thing honest. No vulgar wish to start away from the peasant
class, as though to be a peasant were to be a lower animal;
no hasty steps towards a herald's coUege for mushroom he
raldry; no poor forgetfulness of the past in the sunny noon
of the present.
" How," I said one day, as we were travelUng, to Herr
M  , " how do your peasantry contrive to realise fortunes —
to look down from castles upon the fine shores of your great
lakes ?"
" In many ways," he replied. " Some of them are keen
speculators. Say a large estate is to be sold ; they become
agents for the sale of it in lots to their neighbours. These are
aUowed to buy, and to pay up in instalments. The agents re
ceive these instalments, and about three per cent on each trans
action. This profit is augmented by the agent, who uses the
deposits for six months, during which time he is aUowed to
hold them. Thus hard-headed fellows set to work, and re-
aUse handsome sums. They also make large sums by distilling
finkel." Thus I find that in Sweden, as in England, the great paths
are open to the peasantry ; but I find here, that which I can
not clearly see in England, an enUghtened anxiety on the part
of the nobles to honour aU who rise. The dandy lord of Eng
land, bidding for popular shouts, wUl even shake the hand of a
working-man; but then this is simply to show the terrible
price at which popularity is purchasable on EngUsh sod.
What are caUed liberal peers have been known to entertain
men of genius without putting the " pale spectrum of the salt"

THE SWEDISH PEASANTRY. 161
too prominently before them. These acts are called conde
scensions, and lords are praised for showing them ; and it is
precisely because this praise is given and received that they
are worthless— worse than worthless — pernicious and detest
able. That will be a time to talk of— a time when the cap
may be heartily thrown into the air — when the baUot-box,
lying in the hall of the club-house of all talents, shaU make
my Lord Downy tremble in his patent leathers ! Now, we talk
of Sweden as an aristocratic country— that is, a people con
ventionally aristocratic. Aristocratic the people are, proud to
band themselves into distinct classes ; yet conventionally aristo
cratic, I should say, as the result of my observation, they are
not. For, as I have already written, the nobles have a true
regard for all that is pure and patriotic in their countrymen,
irrespective of class ; and the peasants, with willing hands, but
not with slavish hearts, I think, lift their hats to the nobles. If
there be a class in Sweden that can be .called generally an un
popular class, it is the burghers. These are rapidly rising in
wealth and influence throughout the country.
" And when the peasant has saved a certain sum of money,
how does he generally spend it ? " I asked Herr M  •
" Generally he will spend it in educating his children. He
usually contrives to send one to the University of Upsala, to
study for the Church ; and thus the ranks of the Swedish clergy
are chiefly recruited from the peasant class. No student can
be a curate tUl he is twenty-five, nor a rector tiU he is thirty.
The value of their rectories is not great, varying generaUy
from 1001. to 400Z. in English money. The highest salary given
to a Swedish priest is that enjoyed by the Bishop of Westeras,
who has about 1000Z. English money a-year; and just now
people are clamouring loudly to have this sum reduced."
a

162 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
This sounded an odd kind of agitation to English ears. " Oh,"
but vigorous defenders of the English Church will exclaim, —
"11. in Sweden is worth 101. in England." Not so; 11. wilt
produce in Sweden not double the amount of luxury it wiU
give in England. I should say that the establishment of a man
in Sweden who has 400Z. a-year is about equivalent to that of
an Englishman who has 700Z. a-year. Therefore let no reader
run away with the impression that the Bishop of Westeras is
as well off as the meek gentleman who presides over the spiri
tual affairs of London. The fact is not so. In Sweden the
clergy are maintained as plain Swedish gentlemen, not as
princes. Here may not be found that harsh contrast between
pulpit humUity and social splendour — that continual whine
about sackcloth and ashes from easy gentlemen buried to the
chin in velvet. And this comparative simplicity may, it ap
pears to me, be fairly traced to the wholesome relation in which
the Swedish clergy stand to their parishioners.
Thus the Swedish peasantry, in short, have every legitimate
avenue open to them. They are possessors and cultivators of
their native soil; they are legislators in their own distinct
chamber ; they may rise to be the chief spiritual advisers of
the state.

CHAPTER X.

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH.

That was rather a dreary dinner we discussed at the last sta
tion before entering Stockholm ; for we had had a long day's
work, and fourteen miles of weary road, on a dark night, re
mained between our dinner-table and Birger Jarl's city. We
tried to be very brisk indeed. I believe I ventured to in
quire whether we should find any place of amusement open on
our arrival. And when we had taken our brandy, and were
fairly opposite some exCeUently cooked capercailzie, the cold
pancakes we had eaten at sunrise were forgotten, and Poppy
head, who really had some serious business to get through in
the Scandinavian capital, kept both eyes open. I could see
that we were not far from our journey's end by the Count's
leather-bag, which now showed but a handful of copper skU-
Ungs. Presently we went out from the snug station into the dark
cold night, which seemed to catch you by every Umb at once
—to seize your nose rudely, tiU you felt inclined to sneeze,
but could not— to catch your legs in an icy grip. I was glad
enough to hug my skins close about me, to puU down my cap
over my eyes, and draw stoutly at my cigar, that glowed upon
the Uttle hedge of icicles which had gathered upon the fur that
was near my mouth. To the unearthly sounds of a Swedish
driver we went briskly on our way behind three stout, snorting

164 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
horses; plunged recklessly down hiUs, and toiled slowly up
them ; trotted merrily along even roads, and went sUently
through gloomy forests ; and then from a hill the twinkling of
Stockholm lamps glowed Uke glow-worms far away below us.
How tedious was the half hour during which we seemed to
wind in every way except that which must lead in a direct
line to our destination ! how pertinaciously I bored the driver
with inquiries as to the precise number of " quarters of the
way" we had yet to travel! Soon, sledges passed us at frequent
intervals ; almost incessantly we could hear the jingle of bells
both approaching and leaving us ; and then the hoarse shout
of our driver to the peasants, to draw up their sledges while we
passed on, gave a relief to the excitement. At last we clattered
over the istones of a town, through a gateway, into Stockholm.
Not much like the Stockholm described in chance books,
by writers who should have been compUers of catalogues. You
may teU me that Paris consists of a series of very wide and
very narrow streets ; that its principal thoroughfare is bordered
by trees ; that the Place de la Concorde is a fine .square, with
fountains in it ; that the Palais Royal is a quadrangle fuU of
jewellers' shops and restaurants ; that nearly aU the male
population wear beards and moustachios ; that in the summer
people drink coffee in the streets : — yet I shaU have no very
vivid idea of the great city herefrom. I shaU get a much
clearer idea from some vivid iUustration of the spirit of the
people, and some particular description of one picturesque effect
seen in one spot. A stranger would get a clearer notion of
London life and of London from one of Dickens's books than
from any bulky Cyclopjedia of the metropolis. I say, there
fore, that Stockholm I found in no particular resembling the
place I had conjured up from descriptions.

166 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
The Swedes say, " The morning has gold in its mouth,"
and accordingly rise early ; though it does not appear that they
abstract any vast quantities of the precious metal from between
the morning's teeth. Yet they are an active people, weU in
clined to enjoy themselves; also well incUned to work vigor
ously, I think, while they are about it. As I have before said,
they appear to me to have aU the elements of a great nation,
and that these elements are about to exhibit sound, and glo
rious developments ; and I, remembering how kind they were
to me while I was amongst them, shall watch the game go for
ward with no uninterested eyes.
How snug Swedish rooms are ! They are lofty, and they
are large; yet they are never cold; and you may sit in any part
of them without fear of having the left ear numbed while the
right is roasting, as in EngUsh rooms. I remember how snug
we were when we breakfasted on the morrow of our arrival;
and how, when we were about to emerge into the~ streets, we
could hardly be persuaded to put on heavy clothing, feeUng
convinced that the weather must have moderated. But when.
we were once fairly in the Drottninggatan (the Regent Street
of Stockholm), the cold was particularly perceptible. The hea
vens were cloudless, and there was not a breath of wind. It
was a fair Swedish winter's day. The streets gUstened with
the hard snow, polished by the sledges ; every thing was bright,
dazzling. The longj long street of taU, French-looking houses
into which we emerged, and in which our hotel was situated,
was powdered every where with snow. It was thickly lying
upon every protruding corner, in little pyramids upon the
hinges of the shutters, in soUd folds upon the projecting tops of
doorways, in slanting, glistening slopes against the windows,
and in sheets of unbroken whiteness upon every roo£ We

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 167
turned into another street ; here, again, was the gUstening
snow every where. We advanced into the open space between
the Opera House and the hotel occupied by one of the princes.
Here it was fairly dazzling ; and we could see it every where
— covering the stone-work of the bridge across the Maelar lake
away to the great palace — to the right, over all the houses and
offices; and the House of Nobles — to the left, over the shipping,
moored till spring should come to melt the icy heart of winter.
This universal whiteness, reflecting the light of an unclouded
sky — the people in fur-clothing, moving briskly about, and the
bells of the noiseless , sledges chattering musically every where
— made up a most cheerful, a most invigorating scene. Truly
this city of Birger Jarl is a place for travellers to visit! Yonder
splendid palace dwarfs every thing we can present in England,
in the shape of a royal residence, to a very poor affair. How
grandly it rises from the bridge, and towers with its lofty and
tremendous wings over the entire city! My eyes were fixed
upon its fine proportions, its simple majesty of outline, as I
slipped across the bridge, with the dark waters of the Maelar
roaring under my feet ; and odd, incongruous thoughts of the
splendours of the south, transplanted hither into the ice and
snow, came over me. For in this palace are splendid relics from
sunny Italy and Greece — treasures that grew up under the
warm influences of a voluptuous climate — here, freezing in the
galleries, of King Oscar ! And here too are the glories of native
art — the great statues of Fogelberg — the sweet, Baily-like works
of Sergell — the well-executed groups of Gbthe and Bystrom !
I wandered straightway into the gallery where these treasures
might be seen ; and certainly the three Scandinavian gods by
Fogelberg are fine creations. Balder, especially, has the great
ness of a god in him. I give .a drawing of Bernadotte's cham-

168 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
ber— stUl, I believe, preserved as he left it. Here too are
splendid specimens of porphyry from the royal quarries at

BEKNADOTTE'S CHAMBER.
Elfdal — marbles rich in colour. I saw thus much of the pala
tial treasures ; then wandered back into the street, looking into
the odd nooks and corners of the city — its back streets, and
less pretentious life. And here let me own, to the great credit
of all concerned in the happy fact, I met no squalor equivalent
to the Drury Lane of London — to the terrible byways of Paris.
There were poor houses, indeed ; but I noticed no, wretched

THE PALACE AT ST )C S.IIOLM.

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 16'9
dens arrayed in all the ghastly presences of reckless pauperism.
And yet I looked,, I think, narrowly, and asked pointed ques
tions. After a rapid walk about the city, I endeavoured to sum
up its general features. I said it struck me as a city of French
houses buUt upon a Venetian site, and removed, by some ex
traordinary agency, to a northern climate. Even its people,
in dress, are French ; that is, with the exception of the Dale-
-earlians, who are peculiarly arrayed, and the lower orders of
men, who are cased from head to foot in stiff leather. Then
again, these Swedes of French aspect are contradictions; for
they have EngUsh faces — faces that you are accustomed to meet
in Fleet Street. And having said thus much generally, I fairly
determined to make no further observations on the subject. I
know that I can convey only the most meagre notion to the
reader, of Stockholm, as it reaUy stands powdered with snow
during four or five months out of every twelve ; but I do hold
that a few honest confessions of the exact way in which it
strikes a stranger may give a stronger and more correct notion
of the general aspect of the capital, than a dry list of its pub
lic buildings, exact measurements of its streets, and tabular
views of its population. I was told that I could not think of
leaving Stockholm without having seen thirty or forty distinct
and widely separate attractions ; yet I contrived to do soi I
hate long-established sights ; where catalogues are distributed
at infamous prices, and drowsy officials dribble over historic
relics. I hate, in short, the Westminster Abbeys of foreign
countries. Not that I experienced any annoyances from
guides during my stay at Stockholm; on the contrary, I found
the officials with whom I came in contact, obliging, and not
too ready to extend the palm for a bit of paper money; but

170 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
I had, from past experience, an instinctive dread of the esta
bUshed sights of a city. I therefore accepted , invitations to
these very cautiously.
There was, however, one collection of Swedish relics into
which I wandered, that riveted my attention, that caUed up in
me, as it must have called up in the minds of many visitors,
strange thoughts, sudden emotions, and painful, tragic pre
sences. In the palace opposite the Opera there is a coUection
of armour, and weapons, and clothes, associated with the his
tory of the country. Ghastly enough are many of them, with
blood besmearing them, and bullet-holes showing the Ught
through them ! A grave old soldier leads you up the broad
stone staircase to this collection. First you are introduced into
a room that is not very unlike what you might conceive a
pawnbroker's parlour of the middle ages to have been. For
here are grouped and slung up, in bundles, the liveries worn
by court servants in different times. The gold aU faded now,
the colours past, the material rotten, presenting a very sig
nificant array indeed of past vanity. What would be the
emotion of Mr. Jeames, of Berkeley Square, I thought, in this
chamber, filled with the liveries of old! For these faded
jackets, these tattered, discoloured frills, have probably, in
times when they were white and stiff from the hands of ancient
laundresses, caught the eyes of Stockholm, maids, perhaps of
pretty Dalecarlianboatwomen, as they went gaily rowing about
the Maelar waters- there ! Well, well, pass on, wrinkled guard,
to the coUection in yonder room ; for hereabouts are matters
of stronger interest.
Here all the relics are in -glass cases ; relics that make the
heart sweU to the throat as the spectator looks upon them.
AU about, at first, the visitor sees richly embroidered saddles ;

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 171
stirrups bright with jewels ; swords blazing with precious
stones ; faded satins suggestive of briUiant pageantries ; but
presently the guide points quietly here and there, and the
heart sickens-. For here, amid the blaze of jewels, the silver
horse-shoes and the golden bridles, are the bloody garments of
Gustavus Adolphus from the field of Lutzen ! the sword that
feU from his brave hand, only when his Ufe's blood was on the
rapid ebb ; the fine shirt, and tattered Unen — all heaped under
a separate glass-case ; all relics clotted with the hero's blood,
true blood of old, now showing in grey and yellow patches
upon embroidered linen ! In vain- the historian seeks to paint
the terrible battle, on that November day of 1632, before
these ghastly evidences of the great king's wounds. Brave
Steel-glove (Stahlhande), who. snatched the sacred dust from
the enemy ! Brave king, who died with " God's harness" on
him, and God's only I*
The old guard motions us onward ; past satin robes with
satin shoes pinned to the skirts thereof; past leather coats and
jeweUed swords, and velvet saddles; we, thinking by the way
only of the bloody heap- of linen in the case behind us, tUl the
guard pauses seriously before- a case, upon which the great
name of Charles XH. is painted. And here again 'is ghastly
evidence of a great king's death I The hat perforated by the
fatal shot, the garments stained with blood. History says that
when Charles was struck at Frederickshall he raised his hand
to his head. True enough, here is the gauntlet he raised
* " Since his wound at Dirschau, he had ever found it painful to wear
armour, and he set generally no value on the heavy accoutrement hitherto
used, which he in great part abolished in his army. rGod is. my harness,"
he said, when his equipments were brought to him an that morning" —
Oeijer's History of tlie Sweatea.

172 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
smeared with gore. Very terrible aU this is ; and one begins
to ask the question, is it profitable terror ? Has the repulsive
show any thing wholesome in it? The- question is not easily
answered ; but I am inclined to think it serves a good purpose.
It recaUs vividly the past ; it checks the historian, and when
he speaks truth, confirms his story.
And here again, opposite the bloody gauntlet, are the go-
cart (lined with blue velvet), and the cradle of the warrior
king ; extracts from the first and last chapters of Voltaire's
history !
The imagination quickly seizes upon all that Ues between,
and thus fortified, dwells thoughtfully upon the beginning and
the end. The child taught to walk — the stern soldier struck
to the earth ! Well, well, again, old guard, pass on. Pass these
cocked hats and splendid swords, these royal bridal dresses,
these flowing satins, to another blood-bespattered robe — that
of Gustavus III. — who was kiUed in the Opera-house yonder —
killed while festival music played, and with all his splendour
blazing about him. Slowly pass, old guard, the rows of guns,
and helmets, and heavy swords, and iron storming hats; and
arquebuses — aU old weapons of warfare ; and now, the show
over, here are .two rix and our thanks, and good morning.
Again the cold bids us move along briskly. We stroll
about ; look at the wonderful silver work for which Swedish
workmen are celebrated; inspect the black sweets eaten at
funerals ; see the fine Stockholm guards turn out ; watch the
picturesque appearance of the few Dalecarlians who have re
mained in the capital after the close of the boating season ;
walk in front of the House of Nobles, a fine, simple, red build
ing; and visit the great church with its cast-iron steeple, where
a long Une of kings Ues splendidly entombed! A line, indeed,

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 173
boasting many heroes : many brave men— brave, and for the
right cause !
We have seen the crown prince once or twiee during the
morning, walking about arm-in-arm with a friend, and lifting
his hat, on a moderate calculation, once every minute, in return
for the salutes of passengers. Truly this easy, friendly inter
course with the people, this cordial interchange of politeness
between prince and subject, contrasts oddly with foreign ex
periences of royal condescension. Nowhere did the people press
on the prince's path :; he might stop in the street to speak with
a noble, and he would find no crowd gather about him. Again,
access to the presence of the sovereign, in Sweden, is easUy
obtained by any subject ; thus there exists a cordial under
standing between the high and lowly, and the royal famUy is
loved, and respected in eyery par); of the country. Indeed, the
accomplishments and talents of King Oscar would ensure him
the admiration of his subjects, even were he wanting in the
social virtues which also distinguish him.
I have already devoted a separate chapter to the Swedes at
table; I must therefore refrain from taking the reader with me
at three o'clock to the club over the water, or to the H6tel de
SuSde. " So that nothing remains but to continue our stroll
about the city. Night wiU .shortly close in— that is, a Uttle
after three-^^nd then we wiU go to a Swedish cafe chantant.
Meantime we must proceed with our • rational amusement.
Near the palace is the Museum of Northern Antiquities — open
to all-^even, I believe, on Sundays; for here it is held that
after six o?clock .on Sunday, hours haying been devoted to se
rious thoughts, some attention may be given, without sin, to
instructive gr simply exhilarating amusements, I wiU not
undertake to say what -verdict Dr. Croly will pass upon the

174 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
Swedish nation if this information reach him, but I know what
most intelligent men whose " heart ferments not with the bigot's
leaven" wUl think, and to these I address it. Thus, I -say, I
beUeve the Museum of Northern Antiquities, and other Collec
tions, are open to the Swedish people on Sundays.
The coUection of northern antiqiuties is exceUently ar
ranged, and includes many remarkable objects. Its Hlustra
tions of the rude manufactures of the Scandinavian people, of
their stone hatchets, their colossal brooches, their primitive
locks, are particularly interesting, when explained by the
learned professor who has the care of the museum, and to
whom I was much indebted. He showed me the little gun
manufactured for Queen Christina, and caUed her flea-gun;
the stick Charles XII. had in his hand when he was mortaUy
wounded ; an amber toUet-apparatus, and splendid caskets and
jewels, — spoils of war! AU this with the keys of the rooms
in his hand, for the short winter's day was closing.
We walked back to our hotel in the twilight, with the hard
snow gUstening at our feet, and the stars shooting brightly out
of the deep blue overhead, and the faint northern light on the
horizon. The Opera-house of Stockholm is a pretty, weU-propor-
tioned theatre, comfortably warmed. The ante-room to the
stalls suggests to a stranger fhe northern climate in which he
is; for here are heaped bundles of furs fhe most ponderous
over-boots the most tremendous. And the packing of slender
gentlemen, who have shown in the theatre in ordinary evening
costume, in endless wrappers, which give them the presence of
aspiring Daniel Lamberts, is amusing enough to the stranger.
Herr M  , who looked the pink of fashion in his staU, was
not unlike a bear on his hind legs in the Uttle fur apartment in

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH.

175

question. And then the sledging home ; with the merry sledge-
beUs ringing in the clear frosty air, the dazzling snow-Ught —
all is pleasant and cheerful enough. Normani was the prima

donna when I was in Stockholm. She is an English lady, and
has a very fine voice. With the Swedes she is a great favour
ite. The orchestra merits particular praise : indeed it enjoys
the reputation of being second only to Costa's troop in Covent
Garden. Music seems to be passionately cultivated in Stock
holm. I was present, during my stay, at a concert exceUently
organised, and extensively patronised. But having done the
part of critic in musical matters, (a part, for which I am about
as well fitted as Wright is for Hamlet,) I may lead the reader
gently — quietly, to a less pretentious place of amusement, to a
place, in fact, which is a fast place in Stockholm. It is a cafS
where people sip sweet punch from Uqueur-glasses ; smoke, and
Usten to some very indifferent music. Here the visitor may
take his seat, and having ordered some punch at the comptoir,
of the flika in attendance (who is gracious if you give her the

176 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
title of mademoiselle), quietly watch the proceedings. Gene
rally the audience is a peaceful one, Heaps of over-boots and
furs Ue about, moustachios of portentous dimensions are dipped
into various Uquids, and friendly questions are put by the ha
bitue's to the master of the orchestra. This orchestra musters
about six performers — three of whom are women. These sit in
the front row, the men behind. One of the women, about fifty
years old, dressed in a most motherly style, and looking very
gravely at the proceedings, vigorously plays the fiddle, the wo
man on her right sounds a harp, the woman on her left twangs
a guitar. These deUcate instruments are supported from be
hind by two brass instruments, and the master's leading violin.
When aU these musical powers are fairly in motion — and
when the air in hand is about to close, a sound sufficiently loud
is produced to satisfy the most exigeant assembly, and which
must be considered handsome treatment, when the gratuitous
character of the entertainment is fairly considered. The songs
by the ladies are chiefly popular Danish ditties, delivered with
(he thinnest possible voices. But the master of the little tap- -
room opera company is a comic man, with a round, red face,
and features that he can distort at pleasure, and which, by a
happy coincidence, he is always pleased to distort. First he
sings a drunkard's song, the chorus of which consists in pro
ducing a sharp noise Uke the click of a trigger, by puUing
down his under lip and letting it fly back against his teeth,
The dexterity with which he has performed this trick to the
music of his company produces an encore. In obedience to
the flattering caU, he offers a series of imitations. He begins
-by being drunk. He throws his coat open, lets his tongue Ue
loosely out of his mouth, drags his hair over his eyes, and
staggers very successfully. He is a Frenchman. He studies

THE OPERA-HOUSE, STOCKHOLM.

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 177
any attitude. He is in love: the winning smile; the ardent
look; the clasped hands; the devotional business, are aU well
attended to. He is an Englishman: — this is very amusing.
He begins this part of his performance by scowling dreadfully
at his audience. He then proceeds deliberately to hold his
breath tUl his face is not unlike a ripe red gooseberry ; his eyes
protrude from his head; still he scowls; and then he grins
foolishly, and then takes snuff, and then mistakes the cuff of
his coat for a handkerchief: and the characteristics of an Eng
lishman have been given to the satisfaction of all present, who
laugh heartily. Let me confess that I joined in this laughter,
with my English companions ; and although the whole affair
was an absurd caricature, yet there was the slightest possible
bit of truth in the manner of it. After this exhibition we put
on our fur over-boots, enveloped ourselves warmly, gave some
paper money for our refreshment, dropped a rix each into the
musicians' tray, and went home, through the bright snow-Ut
streets, past fleet sledges stiU musical, past parties of ladies and
gentlemen heavily clothed, always followed by men-servants
holding lanterns near the snow before their employers' feet,
that they may not slip — past policemen, oddly clad, but with
badges about one arm, in imitation of the EngUsh police.
Here poUcemen always walk in pairs. Some time back, the
Swedish government set an inquiry into the organisation of
our new poUce on foot ; and this badge that I noticed is one of
the results of this investigation.
During my stay in Stockholm, I amused myself, in leisure
hours, by wandering hither and thither, noticing the stir and
Ufe of the place; for I must confess I prefer to saunter about,
rather than to race from one point of attraction to another.
I Uke suddenly, by accident, to come upon a fresh scene — an
N

178 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
odd corner. I refused to take a sledge at the hotel-door and
drive direct to a sight. Thus I accompUshed my examination
of the capital in a most irregular manner. But I enjoyed my
own plan, and I carried it out ; I have described my experi
ences as they occurred, and I shall continue on this system.
Suddenly, one morning, I and the Captain (who had joined
our party again) came upon an open space, where — in the ter
rible cold- — the Frozen Market was held. Here, in huge ham
pers, were heaps of game all frozen as hard as iron ; apples Uke
cricket-balls, and covered with snow ; and aU kinds of produce
frozen, aU tight in the grip of Winter. Ladies were marketing,
their sledges waiting for them. It was altogether a curious
scene. On this same day, I remember, we strobed past the
House of Nobles to the great church once more ; then to the
royal stables ; then to the dep6t of the Elfdal porphyry, where
we found only three specimens of this beautiful marble ; and
it was on this day that I went to the medical college- — to the
Carolin Institut — to breakfast with its learned head, Professor
Retzius. I shall not easily forget the enthusiasm with which
the Professor took us through the rich museum of the Institute;
but above aU, that part of it where hundreds of skulls are
ranged in black cases round a large apartment, and are pUed
up also in the centre of it. The effect, to a non-scientific eye,
was a little chiding. My thoughts did not wander to the
learned distinctions between Celtic and other skulls ; I rather
thought with a shudder of the ghosts belonging to these innu
merable bones.
But here the Professor was quite at home, and proceeded to
give us a most instructive and vivid Ulustrated lecture. The
familiar terms on which he appeared to be with all these skuUs
was rather terrible.

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH. 179
" See here," he said, and he seized a substantial skuU and
placed it in my hands (which made me feel very uncomfort
able), " your phrenologists would caU this an excellent skull;
but, sir, it is all nonsense ; it is that of a Sandwich Islander ;
and here is another, and another, and another" (and the Pro
fessor put one under his arm, and held one in each hand) ;
" these are all Danish skuUs ; and the Danes are said to belong
to the most intellectual race, — here they are, phrenologicaUy
bad." And then the Professor picked out his pet, his favourite
skulls. Suddenly he seized upon four; and calling our par
ticular attention to them, described them as the skulls of
four Swedish princes. Here was an opening for a philoso
pher ! Four royal skulls dandled by a professor of anatomy
for the inspection of curious visitors. I feel that I ought to
grow very eloquent hereabouts; but the fact is, I felt more
than I can describe. I had a vague sense of the awful gap
of time, and the long list of chances, that lay between these
skulls and the day of their glory, when " crowns flashed from
them;" but this sense is that with Which every visitor must
meet them. Put them back, Professor, and bring them forward
some other time, when you have a visitor who can write pretty
things about them. I feel there is a strong story of human in
terest in them ; but it is not for my handUng.
" Here," said the Professor, taking up a skull not far off, —
" here is a Celtic skull, pierced at the back, found in England
near a Roman skuU which had a spear-point driven into the
eye." Well, weU, Professor, these are all suggestive matters —
things to think and talk seriously about; Uttle revelations of
the remote past that hold us enchained for a long time ; wit-

180 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
nesses — not to be perjured in any way — of the historian's
truth ; confirming solemnly records of bloody work done many
centuries since — before Birger Jarl had been hereabouts to plan
a city, and to strengthen it. And so, with hearty thanks, good
morning. And now, having wandered about the principal parts of
Stockholm; having stroUed down the Drottninggatan at the
fashionable hour ; having tested the liqueurs to be had here
and there in this celebrated street ; having watched sturdy men
walking up and down upon the ice of the lake, clad in furs,
near holes bored through the strong floor of frost ; and having
ascertained that these 'lonely wanderers are fishermen, who
have baited hooks sunk through these holes ; having examined
Professor Louven's museum of natural history ; having passed
an hour in the company of a taUor of antiquarian propensities ,
who treasures Scandinavian relics, and has a rich collection
of Runic calendars and other curiosities ; having enjoyed the
society of many new and warm friends, who gathered kindly
about me and my companions; and having gossiped rather
freely about aU this, — I 'may naturaUy think that the reader
wishes to know something less fantastic and diffuse on the
subject of Stockholm. Yet Stockholm has been often enough
described. Very cold eyes have looked strangely upon all
these fine palaces reflected in the Baltic and the Maelar: on
these streets Scrambling about the bold rocks; at this solemn
background of fir- forest; at these fresh gardens, all grouped
greatly together on a plan in no way like that of any other
European capital. These cold eyes have counted the buUd
ings, set down the tonnage of the shipping, and drawn up
elaborate inventories of the palace : therefore, if the curious
reader have a mind for a Stockholm oatalogue, he may turn to

. THE VESICE OF THE NORTH. 181
one. But I have noticed a description of the capital that has
some warmth in it — some artistic force ; I refer to Felix Droi-
net's, affixed to C. J. BiUmark's Panorama. From this notice
I shall take leave to translate some extracts.
" There are not more than five or six cities in all Europe
which can be compared for beauty to Stockholm. The visitor
is struck with admiration before those groupings of houses,
palaces, and churches, which compose the cite, the broad ways
in the northern faubourg, the houses that climb the precipitous
rocks of the southern quarter, and are generally reflected in the
clear waters of the Baltic or the Maelar lake. Every street dis -
closes a new and a delightfully picturesque scene. The perspec
tive is happily fantastic ;¦ — the ground infinitely varied. Gloomy
forests, green slopes, stupendous rocks, majestic waters, rich
statuary, vast temples, and imposing buildings, make up the
scene. The bustle of a sea-port, the quiet of aristocratic quar
ters; the activity of a populous city, the silence of the forest;
the clatter of workshops; all these aspects are here, and may be
alternately enjoyed. Stockholm, in short, is one of those com
plex puzzles thrown in the way of. the observer to defy his
descriptive powers." But the writer makes the attempt, and
describes rather happily some of the notable places. Let me
translate his passage about the Exchange :
" On the Stortorget Square, a spot famous in history as the
scene of Christian the Tyrant's massacres, the Exchange stands.
It was built from designs by Palmstedt, and was completed in
1776. The merchants meet on the ground-floor. On the first
floor is a fine saloon, in which concerts are given, and in which
official feasts and other solemnities take place. In fact, the
uses to which this building are put are very various. Here
the Academy of Science and the Swedish Academy hold their

182 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
sittings; here the Philharmonic Society give their concerts;
here a dancing club, caUed the Order of Innocents, calls its
members together; here banquets take place; here Berzelius
gave his revelations to his countrymen. You might pass a
happy, week here — now with the officials at dinner ; now with
the Philharmdnic Society; now with the Innocents; and now
with the scientific bodies."
On the square of Gustavus Adolphus, the energetic de-
scriber writes some pertinent remarks : " The fine equestrian
statue which occupies the central spot of the square was mo
delled by Larchevesque, and cast by Meyer. The pedestal is
of Swedish marble, and is ornamented with four bronze medal
lions, representing Generals Torstensson, Wrangel, Bau6r, and
Koeningsmark. Among other important events which have
taken place here, we may mention the revolt of the Dalecar-
Uans, who, about a century ago," discontented with the Russian
war, assembled here to the number of five thousand, and at
tacked the capital with the intention of dethroning Frederick.
This attack was repulsed by the troops ; two hundred Dalecar-
lians were wounded or kUled, some threw themselves into the
water, and the rest fled or implored the royal pardon."
And with this gossip I must close Felix Droinet's notice.
For- the time has come to say farewell to many friends assem
bled about our crazy landau, in which we have nearly four
hundred miles of road to travel to Helsingborg on our way
home. , Four hundred miles, over terrible roads, through
gloomy forests ! Well, our friends say a happy journey: they
have their misgivings we know, and so have we ours ; but we
wave our caps cheerily as we rumble out of the court-yard,
and away on our road: — our long, weary road home.
Here is our coachman, in town livery ! His costume on

THE VENICE OF THE NORTH.

183

the road, however, is in no way like this. The Albert hat is
replaced by a huge fur cap, and his anatomy is closely packed
in impenetrable furs. He must have been rather tired of that
coach-box when we rattled through the tortuous streets of
Helsingborg !

CHAPTER XI.
HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER.
We had fairly turned our backs upon Stockholm, and were on
our way to England. It was Sunday afternoon. The peasants
were sledging home from church ; those who had already re
turned to their native village were cheering themselves with
spirit. We felt very sprightly all the afternoon, and stopped
gaily at the second station, to dine. While we were at dinner,
our servant wished to know whether we would travel all night.
We were so fresh that we rather enjoyed the notion: we as
sented. Presently we enveloped ourselves in our furs once
more, and stowed ourselves in our carriage — in our machine of
torture rather. It was a terrible instrument. It obliged the
unhappy occupant to sit with his knees nearly touching his
chin; the buttons were wanting to the leather apron, the mud
splashed in, when the snow ceased to fall in, in substantial
lumps ; in short, every possible discomfiture to which a coach-
maker could subject a customer was brought upon us by this
horrible machine. We hated cordially the man who made it,
the man who recommended it, the man who drove it, and every
body in any way connected with it, before we had been in it
four and twenty hours. But even 'this apparatus, this cross
between a winnowing machine and a voiture de place, could not
keep Poppyhead awake. He bumped forward against the
coachman's seat, or sideways against the iron ribs of the hood

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 185
or came with tremendous weight against me ; but all to no pur
pose: he snored and slept for hours together. Now and then
my patience became exhausted, as we went forward for long
dreary miles through forest, and past big rocks, that seemed to
peep occasionally under the hood through the terrible dark
ness, and I woke my companion on the plea that we must be
approaching the next station, and that our driver had informed
me we should get some exceUent eggs and coffee there.
Now Poppyhead slept soundly ; but he always woke at the
word refreshment. I envied him his power in this respect,
always to sleep through the disagreeable parts of a journey like
this, and to wake at the refreshment stations.
That dreary, dreary ride to Helsingborg ! Six days and
six nights, without pausing to rest ourselves ; through mud
up to the axletree of the carriage at one point, and over sheets
of ice at another, did we push forward. Sometimes, for six
hours, the roads would not permit the horses to go faster than
the most decent funeral show ; sometimes we rushed down
awful precipitous hills into the forest, and into terrible dark
ness. Sometimes we sat outside posting-stations, in the pelt
ing rain, as we got south, for three hours, waiting for horses.
Sometimes we went fourteen or fifteen hours without refresh
ment. It was dreary enough to pass all day and all night in
that terrible vehicle ; to feel the skin dried up for lack of
washing ; to have the hands harsh and hot ; to lose all sense
of the parting in the hair; to have the conviction graduaUy
steal over you on the fourth day that you looked a beast !
We passed through Nykoping, Norrkbping, and Linkoping ;
— towns all exhibiting the general characteristics of Swedish
inland towns ; which I have already described. Our impressions
of these were terribly confused. We forgot, every hour, whe-

186 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
ther it was Wednesday or Thursday, not having been to bed ;
we had but the haziest notion on the subject of the distance
we had yet to travel. But one circumstance in this jumble of
ideas and days impressed itself strongly upon our memory.
We were spinning furiously down a hill — a terribly steep
hiU too — with rocks on one side, and the broad waters of the
Wettern some hundreds of feet beneath us on the other ; Pop
pyhead was asleep, and I was thinking of the station we were
approaching, when a crash came, that threw Poppyhead's
heels into the air, made the driver turn an unwiUing somer
sault, and sent one of our wheels lazily rolling alone down
the hiU. The carriage had come in contact with a projecting
point of rock, and the axletree was broken Uke a radish.
This was a pleasant occurrence at eleven o'clock at night, some
miles from the station, with a keen wind blowing from the
lake, and no help within caU ! Poppyhead was wide awake
now ! We held a council, and decided upon sending the post
boy to the nearest farm-house in search of some peasants' carts,
in which we and the wreck might proceed to the next station.
He quickly unharnessed one of the horses and rode away.
And then, shielding ourselves behind the carriage from the
icy wind, we remained on the road bemoaning our lot, and
making up our mind to lose the Christmas dinner at home,
for three long hours. During this time I remarked to Poppy
head (who received tlie hint with a sickly smUe, for the catas
trophe had robbed him of his usual eighteen hours' sleep), that
the accident would make a capital incident in the concluding
chapter of a traveUer's book ; but I find that there is not much
in the matter, after aU. After three hours' waiting, we heard
the music of the horses' beUs ; and in a few minutes afterwards
I and Poppyhead were in a peasant's cart on our way to the

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 187
next station, which was Grenna, a little town planted upon a
narrow strip of land, between a splendid ridge of rocks, from
every point of which streams were flashing and tumbling, and
the great lake. Here, at the station, we got some eggs and
coffee j and here for an hour we occupied ourselves in " kick
ing out behind and before," not in imitation of Old Joe, but in
the hope of getting rid of the stiffness consequent upon the
protracted dried-fig condition we had endured. And then I
lay down in a room overlooking the great lake, and to the
murmur of its great waters feU asleep. In a few hours our
servant came and shook us, and gave us the unwelcome intel
ligence that the carriage was mended, and it was time to be on
the move. We surlily rose; and burying our heads from the
keenness of a December day in Sweden, proceeded at a walk
ing pace on our weary journey. The state of torpor into
which the monotony of our position threw us at last was really
remarkable. We cared neither for scenery nor for incident.
In the depth of one night we nearly came to blows with a
station-master, who having kept us two hours that a third
horse might be. got for our carriage, insisted upon still detain
ing us. But we indulged in demonstrations so hostUe that
we fairly frightened the assembled group of postboys, and at
last drove off with our own postboy crying at the coachman's
side. And then, monotonously enough, we went forward, now
dozing and now grumbling, and wondering how it would feel
to sleep in a bed once more ; through weU-cultivated land,
past iron-works buried in the depth of sombre forests ; over
great hills of rock ; on table-land, all damp and cheerless
enough ; along roads, now excellent, now execrable ; with
horses sometimes, brisk and quick, sometimes slow and vicious;
in darkness and in the short day-light ; tUl on Friday, in the

188 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
depth of the night, we reached Helsingborg ! How thank
fully I rolled for the last time out of that terrible carriage,
and walked stiffly along the broad passages of the hotel, with
the reflection that I should reaUy sleep that night !
Pile up the logs, flika ; let them sparkle merrily ; let the
last taste of a Swedish kitchen be a grateful one ; let us have
some of that excellent Ught wine we tasted when we were here
some weeks ago. At once let us have the schnapps ; and for
the, last time for many a day, break the crisp rye bread we
have learned to appreciate completely.
The wind roared from the sea as I lay down to sleep and
think of the angry waves over which our way lay on the mor
row to Copenhagen.
We were up early, and at the place of embarkation. We
went swiftly out from the port, and were tumbled terribly about
on our run across the narrow strip of sea that divides the
Scandinavian peninsula from Denmark. At Elsinore we em
barked many Danes, who were on pleasure-trips to the capital;
and then, with a fresh wind, steamed rapidly to Copenhagen. -
About midday we were safely lodged at our hotel. We re
mained in Copenhagen two days; and at noon on Monday
went on board the Geiser steam-ship, carrying his Majesty's
mails, on our way to Kiel, in Holstein. The wind was gentle,
the sea just lively, the weather generally fine, as we steamed
away between the islands that dot the sea near Copenhagen ;
and as the sun went down, we gathered in the cabins to discuss
the prominent topics of the day, to give our respective notions
on affairs in general, and to wile away the time. Poppyhead
at an early part of the evening, intimated his intention of se
curing a fine night's rest, and went to sleep accordingly. I
stroUed up on deck, and talked with the officers of the ship
who understood English thoroughly.

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER.

189

The wind is not so quiet, I thought, as when we started.
Tut ! — I thought I had got my sea-legs an hour ago. I am
not so certain that. I shall light the cigar I hold in my hand.
How patchy the clouds are ! How, in small, dense bodies,
they smear themselves rapidly across the moon's pale face.
Is that the sailors, whistling a-head ? No, it is the wind in the
cordage, singing, I think, a very plaintive air. Tush ! — the
ship is very unsteady ; I suppose they are altering her course.
By Jove ! that was foam over her head ! " Hold tight," says
the Ueutenant quietly. She rushes up a wave, tumbles and
reels, plunges down , — I am drenched ! I hardly know the
sides of the ship from her decks ; the storm-fiends have joined
in chorus with the wind; — and I roU sadly down the cabin
stairs !
Here the captain, dripping from head to foot, is calmly
measuring from point to point upon his charts. And Poppy
head — here he is : —

Which is the floor of the cabin, and which the roof ? Is
that the captain there— up that steep hiU ? No, there he is,

190 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
deep down in a hollow, and I am cUnging to the top of a wall.
The red-hot coals are rolling about us ; no smoke goes up
the cabin chimney, for the simple reason that the fire is
generaUy horizontal -with it, and the cabin-door immediately
above it. All the furniture is now jammed in a mass at a
further corner ; now it comes rolUng portentously in this direc
tion ! This is rough work, and the captain rolls about very
seriously. The wind shrieks over its horrible work, and the
dark waves of the Baltic play with us. A tremendous crash
comes presently ; our best boat has been carried away, and
the waves are playing savagely with the spUnters of it.
It is darkly whispered about the cabin that the captain
does not know exactly where we are, but that he is trying to
run behind an island to get out of the clutch of the storm-
fiends. Wildly we continue to toss about for hours, to the
fierce music of an equinoctial gale, tiU we reach a bay that
shelters us a little from the storm. And here we drop anchor,
and prepare to ride out the gale. We are aU very gloomy,
and we show it by huge endeavours to make light of matters.
Sadly enough we hear the order given to let off the steam, and
put the engine-fires out. We learn that we are likely to be
at anchor for at least four-and-twenty hours. WeU, the Christ
mas dinner at home is gone ; we may even have herrings and
biscuit on board the good ship Geiser on the 25th 1 AU day
long we saunter about the wet decks, and talk of the danger
through which we have passed. It is currently reported on
the quarter-deck, that in the height of the storm, when the
waves rose about us like mountains of black marble, the first
Ueutenant said bravely to a passenger, that we could only lose
our lives once, and that aU people on board shouldmake up their
minds to the worst; or as a devout person would say,. to the

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 191
best. But then I am rather inclined to beUeve that this de
vout person would have been, if not the first, certainly not the
last, to spring into a life-boat.
We dined, and got reaUy m erry over our dinner. Afterwards
we played at cards, till, worn out fairly with the excitement
and fatigue of the previous night, we threw ourselves down to
rest. Early on the following morning we were upon deck.
The steam was getting up, the wind had abated, and some
awfully black clouds were rolUng away under the horizon.
We were glad to see a little steamer, crammed with Mormons
on their way to America, had also reached the bay ; for it had
been feared the little craft had gone down during the tempest.
We were soon on our way to Kiel. The waves of the Baltic
subside rapidly. It is passionate, and is up in a moment ; but,
like passionate people, the trouble is soon over. Thus, when
we steamed out to the open sea again, it was wonderful to
behold the smoothness of the waters, and the' merry way in
which the quiet ship went on her way to Kiel.
At Kiel we were met by an immense concourse of people,
who had believed all the day and night before, that the steamer
must have gone down in deep water. Having enjoyed the
contemplation of past danger from the safety of a Holstein
hotel, we went forward next morning to Hamburg. The ice
was thick upon the windows of the railway- carriage ; the cold
was unpleasantly busy with our feet on that morning ; and
we were glad to reach the Hamburg hotel to breakfast. But
we had hardly finished this repast, when once more we were
on the move. Our furs were crammed into a droski ; and we
went on our way to the little boat that was to carry us to the
railway- station, en route for Cologne. How bright and gay
Hamburg was on that day 1 Christmas-trees Uned all the streets,

192 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
— were in every shop-window. Children were swarming every
where ; and bonbons seemed to be in every body's hands. I
remember, just as we were embarking, a Uttle steamer came
up alongside our vessel, loaded entirely with Christmas-trees,
I wish I could give a sketch of the Christmas scenes in Ham
burg ; of the great holiday traffic ; of the joyful faces every
where to -be seen; of the vigorous determination depicted in
every face, to be jolly. This determination was to be seen on
every face, save always that of myself and Poppyhead. For
the sun was hugging the warm west on the day before Christ
mas-eve ; and we were yet far enough away from our proper
place of entertainment on Christmas-day. Therefore we looked
gloomingly on at all this festivity.
We travelled all night to Cologne. How keenly I re
member that night, that ruthless search at Minden, where I
vehemently spoke bad Swedish to an excited custom-house
officer, who understood only bad German. It was intensely
cold, when we were dragged out of our snug places in -the
train to find our luggage (which was cast here and there in a
huge, cold room), and open it for the inspection of the autho
rities. How I cursed custom-houses in that dark hour !
From Cologne we went on our way to Ostend. And on
our road dark rumours of the impossibility of reaching Ostend
that evening, and of the fact that no Ostend boat would leave
on the morrow, were circulated about us. These proved only
too true ; and we left the train at Gand, whence we were told
we should travel in the morning to Calais ; but all people in
terested in our stay combined, to keep from us the knowledge
that the train we had just left was on its way direct to Calais,
and that its passengers would embark for England in a few
hours. And here I would make a passing remark on the dis-

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER. 193
honesty, the flagrant and disgusting dishonesty, of hotel au
thorities on this line. By every art, by every dexterous avoid
ance of direct answers, they endeavour to keep the traveller
at their establishments. Only a very expert barrister, well
accustomed to cross-examination, could have elicited from the
hotel authorities of Gand, the time for departure on the fol
lowing, Christmas morning. It proceeded something after
this fashion :
Traveller. We wish to reach London to-morrow. At what
time should we start from here by the train to meet the Calais
boat? Commissionaire. Ah ! Monsieur leaves Gand to-morrow : it
wUl be very inconvenient for him. Should he wait for the
day after to-morrow, a la bonheur, he wiU go to London quietly
and comfortably.
Traveller. But we want to go to-morrow, and don't care
about being up early ; it is of great importance that we should
be in London to-morrow evening.
Commissionaire. Monsieur can do no business in London
to-morrow. Has Monsieur seen all the attractions of Gand ?
Traveller. No ! and Monsieur has no time to give to them.
TeU me at once, the time the train starts to meet the boat
from Calais to Dover to-morrow.
Commissionaire. Directly. But will not Monsieur order
some supper ? We have some cold fowls, oysters — or Monsieur
would perhaps prefer a roti.
Traveller (being hungry, is led from his purpose by this
sly suggestion). Well bring some supper quick ; and let me
have the railway-tables : that will be the shortest way.
Commissionaire (after a long absence, and when the traveller
is at supper). Is Monsieur served as he wishes ?
o

194 A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.
Traveller. Yes. Where are the railway time-tables?
Commissionaire. Monsieur is looking for the mustard: here
it is. Traveller. I am looking for the time-tables.
Commissionaire. Ha ! I understand. I shall fetch them.
Will Monsieur have his baggage in his room ?
In this fashion a dialogue was kept up between us and an
official, till, fairly tired out, we went to the railway-station,
and inquired for ourselves. And this course I strongly re
commend travellers generally to adopt. We could not trust
to the hotel authorities even to wake us in time for the morn
ing train ; and we went away moodily on our journey to Calais,
while the beds of Gand were ringing the inhabitants to early
mass on Christmas morning.

WE CEOSS THE FRONTIER — AND ARE IN FRANCE.

We reached Dover about five o'clock in the afternoon ;
and after a race from Stockholm for a Christmas dinner sat
down, wet with the troubled sea, to dine in a Dover hotel.
But, before I put aside my Brage-Beaker, I must show the

HOME ! A RACE FOR A CHRISTMAS DINNER.

195

reader my luggage. Here it is as it appeared when I left
London :

And here it is after being dragged through the Scandinavian
peninsula !

This wreck is suggestive, I fear, of bad travelling. But,
after some experience, I have come to the conclusion, that it is
no easy matter to travel well. A long purse and short supply
of linen are not the main points to be studied. You may see
the most excellently prepared traveUers in the worst scrapes.
For instance, that very objectionable specimen of an English
tourist I met in the Ostend boat, the specimen described in
the opening chapter of this volume, is an iUustration of this
position. He was excellently appointed. His dress was warm
and easy ; he appeared to be free from packages ; he had no
colossal pocket-pistol, no absurd contrivance for carrying un
wholesome-looking sandwiches.. Yet he was a terribly bad

196

A BRAGE-BEAKER WITH THE SWEDES.

traveUer. He always turned up as the prime mover of any
quarrellmg that took place. It was always his railway- ticket
that was lost ; his passport that had been sent in a wrong di
rection; his carpet-bag in the wrong train; his egg that was
bad at breakfast ; his plate of soup that was upset at dinner ;
his sheets that were damp at night. " Cet Anglais" was al
ways coming in contact in some unpleasant matters with the
inhabitants of the Country through which he was travelling.
I think I see him wending his way through life. There
are some things he is sure to do. He will forget the wedding-
ring when he is married; he will put his foot through the
skirt of his bride's dress ; his hat will be blown over Waterloo
Bridge j he wUl be found carelessly sitting upon the pastry at
two or three pic-nics ; he wUl deposit two or three chickens in
ladies' laps ; and he will die by drinking his embrocation.
Poor fellow ! how can he make a good traveUer ?
Then there is the traveller whom I may describe as the
elaborate traveller. He has studied every point ; his port
manteau contains every thing, from court-plaister upwards;
his dress is severely studied; his cap
is full of mysterious adaptations. It
will screen his eyes from the sun ; it
will cling to his head against the se
verest south-western gale. This sort
of fellow is an uncomfortable compa
nion. My Brage-Beaker is empty !

fnE, M\i\}

APPENDIX I.

Principal Articles op Exportation from Sweden during
the Years 1849-50.

Articles.

Quantity or value.

1849.

1850.

Alum, &c. ....

Lispund .

176,634

164,394

Oak bark .

• ¦

10,105

8,720

Pitch, rosin, &c.

44,876
55,659
Bones
33
48,051
46,362
Manganese
Skeppund
58
180
Cobalt
Livres
1,872
1,007
Oleaginous grains
Tunna
8,354
8,106
Colcothar of vitriol
33
2,709
3,419
Mosses for dyes'
Lispund .
2,256
4,937
Skins and furs .
Livres
8,035
6,761
Lobsters .
Tj°g
6,595
5,813
Iron (Oast) — Shells, balls, cannon
Skeppund
6,177
2,880
,, .. Boilers, grating, &c.
,,
609
203
, ,, Other kinds not named
Ecus de banque
29,882
29,789
, (Wrought) or in bars
Skeppund
550,008
572,378
, „" ,, lumps
3,952
6,838
, ,, „ nails
•
8,689
8,747
, „ „ plates
33 ' '
3,746
3,930
, „ „ sheets, &c.
2,485
¦ 2,404
, » 13 gratings .
,i
2,274
2,182
, „ „ other ma-)
nufactures (
3,
1,275
1,749
,, (Old), cast and wrought .
Quicklime 
33 * •
1,827
457
Tunna
29,786
29,517
Eough copper, in pigs
"Wrought ditto .
Skeppund
8,488
7,072
33 * "
66
92
Nickel ore
.
Livres
2,521
13,625
Mixed metals (rough)
„
1,495
539
„ (wrought)
33 ' *
21,156
905
Silver (stamped) . -
Ecus de banque
1,068,133
91,885
Cc
>rn cakes
.
Skeppund
9,581
11,782
198

APPENDIX I.

Articles.

Quantity or value.

1849.

1850.

Paper, in various forms

(Val. en ecus)
( de banque }

30,296

122,538

Machinery, &e.

6,352

32,967

Silver, not worked

447,660

368,000

Butter

Lispund .

158

-70

"Refined sugar .

Livres
761,246
516,742
Cbbeals — Corn, oats
Tunna
368,794
305,727
f, Wheat
• ¦
16,374
793
„ Barley
33 •
109,632
31,675
,. Malt
71 • '
3,254
2,289
„ Bye .
23,209
418
„ Tares
33
542
212
,, Peas
8,954
2,257
Flours— Wheat
Lispund .
12,197
3,918
33 Bye .
31 • •
6,181
a
„ Oats .
33 •
2,348
1,589
„ Barley
31 • '
3,752
1,343
Stones, not named
Ecus de banque
16,893
20,866
Steel .
Livres
7,589,509
7,108,000
Bricks and tiles
Pieces
294,206
143,405
Tar, &c. .
Tunna
37,669
50,428
Brass and copper wire
Livres
4,140
3,813
Wood — Deal and pine planks .
Douzaines
609,146
715,034
„ Beams ....
Pieces
257,441
314,402
„ Masts, bowsprits, and)
spars . , , j
33 • •
12,045
10,194
Cotton fabrics of all kinds
Ecus de banque
96,930
73,631
Woollen fabrics
49,055
9,861
Mixed woollen and cotton fabrics
255
405
Fabrics of flax and h<
imp .
ii
361,839
71,213
APPENDIX II.

Importations during the Years 1849-1850.

Articles.

Medicinal substances
Befined potass ....
Silk and other ribbons
,, cotton, &c.
Eough lead
Cotton ;
Spirits— Arrac of 12 degrees .
Cognac ....
Bum 
Spirits of wine ....
Foreign books and music .
Cocoa 
Coffee 
Befined camphor
Cinnamon and cassia
Cider 
Figs 
Fish (fresh) ....
(salted) Cod
Salmon ....
Herrings ....
Baltic herrings (called )
Stroeming) . . . j
Dried and smoked (Grasi-)
dor Leg) . . . . J
„ . cod
Bacon 
Fringes, &c. in silk or silk & cotton
„ in wool & other materials
Seeds— Of flax, hemp, rape-seed .
Clover, trefoil, lucerne, &c. .

Quantity or value.

Ecus de banque
Lispund Livres 33
SkeppundLivres Kanna

Ecus de banque
Livres

Kanna LivresLispundTunna

Lispund

Livres

TunnaLispund

1849.

47,587 6,154
3,282 5,409
1,266
3,514,512 227,465 51,327
105,120 5,276
44,97428,391
8,168,891 4,934
39,05115,677
148,582 9,579 430
1,340
258,532 4,026
202,239 53,853 1,2521,360
18,174 3,907
83,836

1850.

56,613 2,5642,634 6,4631,620
4,649,488 233,328 46,755 95,700 9,461
47,92925,912
7,945,086 8,060
69,53613,505
111,252 14,189 533
1,010
182,977 4,088
149,236 42,528 1,1311,865
10,290 20,3659,256

200

appendix ii.

Quantity or value.

Coloues and dyeing substances :
White lead
Cochineal .
Indigo Madder, alizarine
Sandal wood
Others not named
Woods for dyeing of all kinds
Cotton Thread —
Not dyed, under No. 26
No. 26 & above .
Eed (called Turkey) .
Other kinds
Woollen Thread — ¦
Combed, not dyed
Ditto, dyed
Carded, not twisted .
Carded, dyed, twisted as
for embroidery
Flax thread, not dyed
Woollen ditto, called streich gam )
for materials not dyed . . )
Woollen thread, called streich}

gam, for materials dyed
Glassware — Bottles, decanter

Window-glass, green
„ white
Other kinds not named
Bice . .
Hemp ....
Leather-Gloves ...
Manufactured horn-buttons
„ Other articles
Skins, rough and dried
,, „ prepared
Shoe and other leathers .
Prepared skins of lambs and sheep
Other kinds not named
Hops ....
SpermacetiCow and other hairs .
Horsehair ....
Corks, cut
Cork 
Almonds .
Metal plates and nails for ships'
bottoms ....
Brass worked
Other metals of different kinds
Olive and other oils .

Livres

EcusdeLivres

PiecesLispundLivres

SkeppundEcus de banque
Livres

LispundLivres

Lispund
Livres
Ecus de banque
Livres

333,763 8,592
95,211
129,617 97,539
111,443 94,970
108,679
1,080,664 139,220 11,833
12,958 7,578 110
12,076 -2,184
17,713 6,421
154,723 678
29,572
120,289 994,227 14,495 22,40831,186 2,743
3,156,4731,346,802 23,892 13,240 7,4735,6333,573 554
70,385
38,680 5,223
294,141 57,701
37,807 4,124
404,477

282,291 6,726
84,83799,884
39,187
101,862 47,505 54,702
724,664111,464 1,6879,828
7,734 231
10,122 2,3388,2835,449
192,830 313
10,909
129,387586,872 12,948 91,386
27,920 884
2,350,511
2,546,773. 15,15018,703 7,652 9,910
1,702 284
89,598
43,156 10,877
215,478 76,161
30,890 3,638
424,048

APPENDIX H.

201

Articles.

Quantity or value.

1849.

1850.

Hemp-seed oil .

Livres

510,650

1,257,132

Colga Oil, &c 

33 • •

113,691

221,085

Cheese of all kinds .

Lispund .

16,906

16,010

Paper 

Official valuation

36,326

56,936

Paper-hangings

Livres

29,275

19,973

Pepper of all kinds .

,, . .

296,828

220,787

Plums and prunes

3)

461,516

420,496

Oranges and orange-peel .

33

133,852

115,070

Fine gilt porcelain .

33 •

31,700

37,547

Delf-ware 

13

16,436

12,325

Engines and machinery .-

Ecus de banque

300,060

283,288

Raisins 

Livres

969,891

767,463

Bushes and reeds

Lispund .

10,688

5,767

Bough saltpetre

a • •

7,700

12,468

Nitrate of soda

33 ' '

7,096

2,745

Salt 

Tunna

277,914

216,612

Eaw silk, not dyed .

47,603

39,488

,h dyed

33 ' ¦

853

684

Butter 

Lispund .

8,871

5,403

Sugar—

Eaw and coarse .
Livres
13,117,187
13,553,242
Moulded in loaves
33
10,428,514
10,283,438
Broken into lumps
33
18,923
13,718
In Havanah moulds .
129,275
1,351
White and brown moist
33 •
107,779
102,429
Soda 
Lispund .
45,322
57,985
Pit-coal ....
Tunna
379,968
479,240
„ small ....
33 ' '
113,759
174,003
Coke 
33
20,092
21,271
Sulphuric acid .
Livres
257,324
195,288
Tallow .....
Lispund .
186,919
169,216
Bough pewter ....
33 '
4,446
3,536
Turpentine ....
Livres
89,298
98,780
Tea 
tl • .
52,486
54,850
Tobacco —
In the leaf ....
33 ' •
2,358,581
2,241,298
Cigars ....
15,946
20,088
Cut in packets or in hogs-)
heads ¦ . . . j
„
1,665
1,573
In canisters
„
93
164
Snuffs. ....
33 '
5,729
6,194
Niggerhead
,,
14,878
15,513
In sticks, &c.
11
75
36
In stalks ....
13 '
1,405,285
1,063,997
Oil and fat of fish
Lispund .
108,096
93,243
Soaps. .
Livres
158,058
123,116
Wool combed or not .
33 ' *
2,688,161
2,076,578
Clocks and Watches .
Pieces
1,974
2,516
French Wines : white .
Kanna
139,887
127,860
„ „ red .
145,160
132,462
„ „ Champagne .
33
21,336
" 19,300
202

APPENDIX n.

Articles.

Quantity or value.

1849.

1850.

Italian Wines : white .

Kanna

1,524

34

„ „ red .

33 '

2,138

895

Madeira ....

33

47,268

42,417

Malaga ....

33 ' '

65,124

55,609

Picardy ....

JJ * *

9,151

3,863

Portuguese Wines : white

11 '

42

469

,1 red .

>3

1,-872

1,797

„ „ Port

33 ' '

69,866

74,250

Spanish Wines : white .

JJ ¦ '

10,922

7,738

„ „ red

33 • *

11,662

8,049

Sherry ....

33

13,701

15,722

Ehine and Moselle wine .

12,973

11,270

Various other kinds not named

13 •

3,596

3,980

Fabrics of Stlk :

Plush ....
Livres
473
689
Crape ....
39
299
341
Gauzes, &c.
127
99
Mixed with gold and silver
33 • •
7
3
Velvet
„3 ¦ ¦
1,454
1,178
Shawls and neckerchiefs
1,041
822
Fabrics of silk mixed with cot
£ Ecus de banque
ton, flax, wool, &c.
283,078
242,155
Cotton fabrics, white, as lawn,
} -
muslin, &c.
283,078
242,155
Cotton fabrics, dyed, of all land
1 ;.
235,568
182,894
Printed stuffs . . . .
Woollen fabrics, as flannel, ker-
419,910
399,916
semere, white, yellow, and red
/
(the other colours prohibited),
Fabrics of wool mixedwith cot
f "
293,928
198,808
I
ton, -flax, hemp, and wherein
r
not more than half the fabric
* S3
892,883
624,587
consists nf wool
)
Sh awls in wool or wool mixed .
Linen fabrics . . . .
33
33
175,389 28,405
146,968 27,240
APPENDIX III.

TAKIFF OF CUSTOM-HOUSE DUTIES,
Approved of and sanctioned by the King, under date the 21st day
of November, 1851 ; to be brought into force the 1st July,
1852.

1. Table of Duties on Imports,
Followed by a Special Table of Goods exempted from Import
Duties. Import
Units upon Duties in
which they Bank
levy duty. Crowns.* e. e. r.
Acids, crystallised citric .... 1 livre „ 080
,, hydrochlorate (muriatic acid) . ,, ,,030
„ nitric or aqua fortis ... „ ,,016
,, sulphuric  „ ,,004
Steel, cast . .... 100 livres st. v. „ 1 16 0
„ puddled  „ ,,500
other  „ ,,300
„ works in steel, not named - . 1 livre ,,100
Agates, worked  „ 0 40 0
Hooks and eye3  „ ,,100
Bigging and ship furniture, from ship-) (For every 100)
wrecked foreign vessels, or those da-( CXcVofthef » 10 ° °
maged  ) (sale by auctn.)
* The duties are in Bank Crowns of Sweden. The Crown is divided into 48
Skellings, and the Skelling into 12 Rundstycke. A Bank Crown=2 francs 4 cent.=
1 Flem. Florin = Is. 9fd.

204

APPENDIX in.

Needles and pins :
Needles for sewing and embroidery
Needles with heads and ordinary pins
Knitting needles
Pins for cravats and knitting needles
of bare metal .
Others, not named
Alabaster, worked, not named .
Canary-seed

Alum of all kinds
Prepared tinder
Almonds .
Starch (white) .
Animals (living) :
Horses, except stallions
Oxen 
Cows, bullocks, bulls, and heifers
Calves 
Pigs, except boars
Other quadrupeds
Animals are only paid for a quarter of
the duty fixed by the tariff which
are imported, by authority, for the im
provement of the races.
Aniseed 
Antimony (raw and regulus of)
Silver, worked, engraved or not
,, beaten in leaves, fine
,, „ imitation
„ massive, or metallic dust imitating
silver 
Arms of all kinds, and parts of arms .
Arsenic, allowed to be imported by special
licence 
Fireworks, pieces belonging to

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

e. s. r.

1 livre

„ 0 20 0

„ 0 20 0

33

„ 0 30 0

100 ecus de val.

„ 25 0 0

1 livre

3, 0 12 0

„ 0 16 0

,,010
17 lispund
,,500
1 livre
,. 0 6 0
33
,,030
1 lispund
,,100
a head
„ 10 0 0
)>
,,800
33
,,400
„
„ 2 12 0
13
,,200
„ 1 24 0
1 livre
J}
0 2
0
>i
;?
.0 1
0
Hod
a
0 6
0
}>
a
0 2
8
»
it
0 0
3
0 10
0
100 crowns of val,
t)
36 16
0
1 livre
if
0 0
6
100 €cus de val.
25 0
0
APPENDIX in

205

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties ia
Bank
Crowns.
Barometers 
each
e. s. ¦/*.
2 0 0
Stockings and hosiery of silk .
1 livre
3 0 0
,, „ cotton
33
J7
1 16 0
„ ,, combed wool
})
0 40 0
„ ,, other .
33
it
1 16 0
Balsams of Copaiba, of Peru, and other
simples 
33
a
0 6 0
,, so called Eiga ....
1 kanna
0 12 0
1 lispund
a
1 16 0
1 kanna
ft
0 12 0
„ strong, and other sorts
33
if
0 6 0
Toys in wood, and compositions, which are
polished or not, painted or varnished
33
ft
10 0
„ other, follow the regime of worked
material of which they are- chiefly
. composed.
Biscuits (sea and wheaten bread)
1 livre
))
0 2 0
„ other kinds 
33
}J
0 10
Bismuth, tin, glass 
„
it
0 4 0
Bistre (prepared soot), animal charcoal .
1 lispund
it
0 8 0
Wood, for construction and cabinet-mak
ing, rough, sawn, or hewn :
Fir and pine 
100 ecus de vah
a
10 0 0
Mahogany, common Brazil, and other
exotics that are not exempted from
import duties 
the cubic foot
Jt
0 12 0
the hundred
a
0 0 3
Beams and rafters of pine and fir of
less than 5 inches of thickness in
the middle 
the piece
a
0 10
From 5 inches inclusive to 8 exclusive
in the middle 
a
tt
0 4 0
Of 8 inches and above
if
it
0 12 0
Planks, sawn, of fir and pine, of less
than 1J inch thick ....
the dozen
tt
0 8 0
206

APPENDIX IU.

Wood (continued) :
Of lj inch inclusive to 3 inclusive
Beyond 3 inches . . . .
N.B. — For the rate of custom duties
upon the ends of planks of pine and
fir we must reckon : 5 doz. ends of
the length of lj ell or under for 1
doz. ; 2 doz of the length of more
than 1] ell to 4 ells inclusive for a
dozen.
Oak and ash 
Elm, birch, and beech, and other
kinds of native wood, not named
Stakes of juniper of all sizes
Leaves for inlaying
Stocks (gun) rough .
Handspikes Bough-hewn handspikes .
Fine laths, sawn from pine and fir, of
the length of 8 ells or under, and of a
circumference of 4 inches, or under
Strong laths, carved ....
„ sawn ....
Masts, bowsprits, and spars, o 40
inches and more in circumference,
to 10 feet from the large end .
Of 20 inches inclusive to 40 exclusive
of a circumference of 10 feet from
large end .....
Of less than 20 inches, idem
For pumps not bored or drilled, see
masts and spars ; drilled
Barters, called ribbers, more or less long
Staves for casks, head and sides of
the length of 34 inches or under for

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

the dozen

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

0 16 0
0 32 0

100 ecus val.

"

0 5

0

tt

5 0

0

the hundred

,,

0 6

0

100 ecus val.

it

20 0

0

the dozen

ti

0 12

0

13

it

0 12

0

••

"

0 4

0

>>

0 2

6

„

tt

0 2

6

31

a

0 5

0

the piece

2 0 0

;/

u

0 20

0

-

»

0 8

0

>>

tt

0 16

0

dozen

tt

0 18

0

APPENDIX III.

207

the first, and 22 inches and under
for the others —
Oak 
Beech, pine, and fir .
Above the said dimensions,' to the
length of 42 inches inclusive for the
first, and 27 inches inclusive for the
others —
Oak 
Beech, pine, and fir .
Under these last dimensions — ¦
Oak 
Beech, pine, and fir .
Hoops 
Firewood —
Birch 
Beech and oak ....
Other 
N.B — The faum is 4 ells long, 3 ells
high, and li ell wide.
Oars and skulls (rough) ....
Works in wood, cut or turned, not named,
either polished, painted, or varnished,
or not 
Other articles in wood of all kinds, more
or less worked, not named, are com
prised in staves for casks in bundles,
and upholstery, not named, either or
not polished, painted, or varnished
Wood for dyeing, not rasped, not named .
Boxes and tobacco-boxes, of composition
or worked, not named ....
Boxes (colours, paints) ....
Borax 
Corks 

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

the 120 in n.

the pair

.1 livre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

0 4 0
0 6 0

tt

„ 0 10

0

tt

„ 0 8

0

„ 2 24

0

it

„ 1 12

0

100 in n.

„ 0 0

6

the faum

„ 0 24

0

„

„ 0 36

0

„ 0 16

0

0 16

10 0

100 Sous val.

*t

33 16

0

"

M

1 0

0

it

tt

25 0

0

1 livre

It

0 8

0

t>

>>

0 2

0

"

0 6

0

208

APPENDIX in.

Wax-lights and candles : —
Tallow 
Stearine and marzarine
Yellow wax • . .
White wax and white whalebone
All others 
Bouillon de poche ....
Buttons of composition or worked, not
named 
Pitch and tar mixed, or pitch .
„ „ pitch oil
Braces, silk or mixed silk
„ of other kinds ...
Bricks and tiles, called refractory
„ „ Flemish, called Klinkert
,, ,, for light building .
„ „ Tiles
Embroidery, engraved works in silver or not
„ other kinds .
„ fancy-work designs'
„ tapes for embroidery, gauze,
canvas, and silk
,, mixed silk .
„ wool ....
„ paper ....
,, cotton and other kinds
N.B. — Patterned tapestry pays the
same duty as the tape or tissue upon
which it is commenced, with an in
crease of 20 per cent.
Brushes 
Cocoa 
Coffee 
„ reckoning from 1853, coffee duties
will be only 

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

e. a. T

1 lispund ,

, 2 24 0

1 Hvre ,

,090

a

0 16 0

it t

, 0 20 0

tt t

, 0 20 0

it J

, 0 20 0

tt s

, 0 32 0

1 lispund ,

, 0 10 0

tt t

,050

1 livre 3

, 14 2 0

a

, 0 24 0

the thousand

,600

a

,400

a

,500

n

, 10 0 0

Hod

„ 0 24 0

100 e*cus val.

„ 33 16 0

1 livre

,,050

tt

,,400

71

,,200

tt

,,100

tt

,,050

„

„ 0 32 0

1 livre

0 24 0
0 3 0
0 3 4
0 2 8

APPENDIX TO.

209

Coffee, burnt, and all burnt vegetables pro
per substitutes for coffee
Camphor, raw 
„ refined .....
Cinnamon and cassia lignea
Calamine, or calamine stone
Canes of all kinds 
Wire-ribbon & spangles of gold & silver— r
Pure 
Base 
India-rubber (manufactured), not named .
Capers 
Gun-caps (percussion) ....
Type (printing) 
Cardamom (trees) 
' Cards and card engines ....
Paving-bricks, or tiles ....
¦Playing-cards 
Visiting-cards 
.Pasteboard 
Boarding for bookbinding of all kinds
not varnished
„ , „ varnished
Ashes (not refined), wood, and other vege
table matter ......
Grains, buck-wheat 
oats 
„ wheat 
,, barley and malt ....
„ lentil ......
;, rye 
,, vetch 
„ peas 
,, maize 
N.B. — Oat-meal and flour pay the im-
P

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 livre

Hod

1 livre

1 Uspund
1 tunna

Import
Duties ia
Bank
Crowns.

€. s.

r.

„ 0 4

0

i, 0 6

0

„ ,0 12

0

„ .P 8

0

„ 0 0

2

„ 0 32

0

„ .0 4

0

„ .0 2

6

„ .0 12

0

„ 0 5

0

„ 0 20

0

„ 0 3

0

„ 0 6

0

„ 0 8

0

„ 0 1

0

„ prohibited

„ 0 32

0

„ 0 0

6

3, 0 12

0

„ 0 18

0

„ 0 1

0

„ 0 36

0

„ 0 24

0

„ 124

0

„ 0 36

0

„ 1 24

0

„ 1 0

0

„ 0 42

0

„ 1 0

0

,10 0

210

APPENDIX in.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

port duties, which, at the time of
importation, are1 levied upon the
grain of which the flour or meal is
composed, with an increase of 10 per
cent, and ao that 9 lispund of flour>
12 lispund of meal of rye and peas.,
10 lispunds of barley-meal-, and 8
lispunds of oat-meal, count for 1
tunna of gram, and so that 4 lis
pund of groats and 6 lispund of other
grain, are equal to one tunna of
grain of the kind in question.
The arrangements in the table above
with respect to grain will be fully
put in force till the end of the year
1854.
Mushrooms, eatable, of all kinds
others not named ,
Hemp, combed or picked .
Straw hats-
Hats, tissue, in silk or other
,, of wool, cloth, or silk
ri leather, whalebone, pasteboard.
or roots 
Chestnuts and French chestnuts
Boilers for steam-vessels
Lime, unslacked
„ -slacked .
Acorns ground or not
Chicory roots .
Chloride of lime
Chocolate .
Cider, considered as wine,
'Cement Wax, bees', not white

wood,

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.e. s. r.

1 livre

31

0 12

0

1 lispund

ii

0 6

0

1 skeppund

It

0 24

0

the piece

il

1 0

0

each

11

2 24

0

tt

ti

2 0

0

it

li

1 0

0

1 livre

,,

0 1

6

100 ecus val.

11

20 0

0

1 tunna

11

0 8

0

12 „

li

0 40

0

1 lispund

ii

0 3

0

1 livre

a

0 0

8

it

it

0 1

0

it

i,

0 16

0

1 tunna

t,

0 10

0

1 livre

it

0 3

0

APPENDIX in.

211

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Wax, white or tinted .... 1 livre
„ sealing  „
„ grafting  „
Lemons, green fruit  „
,, juice  1 kanna
,, peel  1 livre
Cobalt, mineral  „
„ ore  „
Head-dresses ...... each
Cravats in silk or mixed silk ... 1 livre
,, leather  „
„ in other stuff .... ,,
Isinglass  „
Confitures and sweetmeats ... „
Preserved provisions, in hermetically
closed cases  „
Shell-fish, salted or pickled ... 1 kanna
Coral, genuine, cut  1 livre
Cordage, new  1 lispund
Cordage and straw matting ... 1 skeppund
Strings, metallic  1 livre
,, and other ..... „
Chains and watch-chains of composition or
manufactured, not specified . . 100 Sous val.
Boots and shoes, in varnished leather, dyed
skins or of stuff ....
„ shoes, slippers, buskins or socks, and
goloshes ...... the pair
Boots  „
Other kinds  100 feus val.
Coriander-seed  1 livre
Horn, manufactured, prepared . . „
,, buttons ...... ,,
„ Other  ,,
Colours and dye- white lead ...

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

e. s.

r.

„ 0 8

0

„ 0 12

0

„ 0 7

0

„ 0 1

6

„ 0 4

0

„ 0 1

6

„ i o

0

„ 4 0

0

„ 1 32

0

„ S 0

0

,, 0 24

0

., 0 16

0

„ 0 16

0

„ 0 12

0

„ 0 12

0

„ 0 12

0

„ 0 40

0

„ 0 24

0

1, i 0

0

„ 0 8

0

„ 1 0

0

„ 33 16

0

„ i o

0

„ 3 0

0

„ 33 16

0

„ 0 2

0

„ 0 1

0

„ 0 12

0

„ i o

0

„ 0 2

0

212

APPENDIX IU.

"Colours, Brazil wood reaped or ground
„ Japan earth
„ cochineal ....
„ yellow ochre and brown .
„ turmeric ....
„ indigo ....
„ madder ....
_ „ red paint ....
„ quercitron
,, brown, red, or colcother .

„ sandal, ground .
„ Supan wood
„ yellow lake
„ verdigris .
„ varnish in sticks
„ shumac
„ umbra ....
„ dyer's weed
„ woad ....
„ saw-wort .
„ others not specified .
N.B. — The colours, ground with oil
or otherwise prepared, pay the duty
that is fixed on the raw material
from which each is derived.
Cutlery (scissors) or shear
,, other scissors
„ razors ......
„ knives ......
„ other description, as forks, &c.
Chalk, white, not pounded . .
„ ditto .
„ red 
„ black stone 

Units upon
whieh they
levy duty.

1 livre

1 tunna

Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

6.

*.

r.

0

0

6

0

0

3

0 16

0

0

0

4

0

0

6

0

4

0

0

0

6

0

1

0

0

0

4

1

0

0

0

1

6

0

0

6

0

0

6

0

1

0

0

4

0

0

0

3

0

0

6

0

0

6

0

0

3

0

0

3

0

0

3

0 3 0

1 lispund

„

0 12

0

1 livre

33

1 24

0

each

33

0 16

0

33

11

0 8

0

the livre

33

1 0

0

1 tunna

33

0 5

0

33

33

0 24

0

1 livre

,,

0 0

6

,,

„

0 0

6

APPENDIX III.

213

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

Pencils, lead, carpenter's ....

. 1 livrei

e. s. r.
,,040

„ all other kinds

n

„ 0 30 0

33
„ 0. 1 0
1 lispund
,,030
1 livre
,,020
„ articles in hair of all kinds
33
„ 2 32 0
33
,,080
Cumin (carraway)
1 tunna
„ 2 0 0
Leather for soles
1 livre
„ 0 12 0
,, other, not specified
„
„ 0 24 0
,, articles in varnished leather
„
„ 0 24 0
Copper —
Baw, as pig-iron 
1 skeppund
„ 5 0 Q
,,
„ 20 0 0
Beaten or struck, rolled or cast, plates.
or other articles intended for making
33
„ 33 16 0
Planks or nails for sheathing of vessels
(or stuff) 
33
„ 1 32 0
Other finished articles
1 lispund.
,,360
Grape-shot, old copper artioles, and
oxide of copper ....
1 skeppund
„ 33 16 0
Bates .......
1 livre
,,040
Lace, point or blond, silk or linen .
33
,,600
„ other 
33
,.100
Thimbles, of other material than gold or
„
- „ 0 16 0
Drousettes above 20x60 . . .
the piece
„ 0 20 0
„ other 
,,
,,090
Scents of all kinds, flask's weight included
1 livre
„ 0 12 0
Brandy and spirits, of grain, potatoes, or
fruit of non- woody plants — •
Hollands of 12 degrees or under
1 kanna
„ 0 32 0
„ above 12 degrees
33
„ 10 0
Other spirits of all kinds, distilled
or not
„ prohibited
214

APPENDIX OI.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 kanna

1 livre

From fruit, French Cognac of 12 de
grees or under ....
Above 12 degrees ....
Other 
Of Molasses or rum of 12 degrees or
under ......
Above 12 degrees ....
From rice or arrack of 12 degrees or
under . .
Above 12 degrees proof
Beckoning from 1853, brandies and
alcohol spirits imported will only pay
And French spirits, for the make of scents
will pay .....
Mineral waters or medicinal ditto .
Tortoise-shell, manufactured . "" .
Bark (mats of, or plats of ) . . . „
Personal effects, old or those used when,
at their importation in consequence of
a special demand, presented to the ad
ministration of customs, when they are
known not to exceed the wants of the
proprietor or owner (see elsewhere the
table of goods exempted from import
duty)  100 feus of val.
Foreign craft —
With rigging and furniture ; when in'
consequence of particular circum
stances the advantage of hel frihet
(full liberty) is accorded them ; or
when brought into a Swedish port
by a foreigner, they will be made
lawful prizes and sold
Stranded and sold as a wreck .
All other 

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

„ 0 32 0
,,100
„ prohibited -
„ 0 32 0
,,100
„ 0 32 0
,,100,,020

0 8
0 4
6 0
0 6

„ 10 0 0

for every 100

ecus is the auc

„ 25

0

0

tion sale

„ 10
0
0
n
„ 25
0
0
APPENDIX IH.

215

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

(See elsewhere the table of goods exempted
from import only.)
Writing ink in powder ...»
„ liquid 
„ for printing and copper plates

Tin- Wrought, either manufactured, old or
broken ....
Newly made, not varnished
Varmshed . . „
Leaves of tin or tin-foil
Pewter (oxide of tin) .
Packings of hemp
„ of flax . .
,, containing old cordage
Sheaths with furniture, of composition or
not specified 
Fans 
Whalebone 
Crockery, white, yellow, or not painted ;

„ other pieces
„ painted or printed .
» ,, other pieces
„ Beckoning from 1853, crockery
painted or printed will be ad
' mitted.
„ Plates .
„ Other pieces
Flour, not specified, of vegetable matter
which cannot be classed as grain .
Tinsel and triektracks
Lees of potatoes ....
Fennel „....-

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

1 livre

vt

0 <6 0

1 kanna

},

0 16 0

1 livre

it

0 3 0

pt

97

0 12 0

llispiand

11

0 20 0

1 livre

11

0 12 0

ft

1-1

0 16 0

a

a

0 8 0

it

?i

0 14

1 skeppund

it

2 24 0

ti

¦a

5 ,0 0

a

5J

10 0

100 e"cus

1-1

25 -0 0

1 livre

„

3 0 0

-

it

0 12 0

ii

0 2 0

a

it

0 5 0

Ml

prohibited prohibited

79

»

0 6

0

33

33

0 8

0

«3

3>3

0 6

0

33

33

0 24

0

1 lispund

11

0 24

0

1 livre

il

fi 2

0

216

APPENDIX III.

Iron- Cast, pig, or in quantities for ballast
Bombs and bullets, calibre and filed,
cannons, swivel and mortars,
stamped, bored, as gun-carriages- of
all sizes 
Artillery, swivel guns and mortars,
not stamped or bored
Pottery, boilers, pans, grid-irons,
stairs, with their banisters and
opening shut .....
Backs for chimneys and rough weights
Cannons, bombs, mortars, and repul
sion shot 
All other work, cast, not named
Anchors forged or rolled .
Chain-cables in rings of a calibre of
£ of an inch and under, if more
than § of an inch to 1$ inclusive .
Of more than 1 5 of an inch
Grapnels, anvils, hammers, irons for
rudders and oars ....
Sheet-iron of | of an inch and more
of thickness, and less than 12 inches
wide, in square bars of more than %
of an inch . . -
In massive quantities
Forged or flattened, in sheets and
round, in flat bars of less than | of
an inch thick ; for gridirons and in
bars, round, 6 and 8 sides ; in square
bars of § of an inch or under (iron-
rods) ; plates for boilers of $ of an
inch and more thick, and 12 inches-
and more wide; ....

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Impart
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s.

¦r.

„ prohibited
1 skeppund „ 8 0 0
,,400

It

„

6 0

0

li

ft

4 0

0

rt

Tt

2 0

0

100 feus

„

25 0

0

1 skeppund

t>

5 0

0

13

3 0

0

"

"

1 24

0

15 0

0

„ „ prohibited
. skeppund1 st. v. „ 3 24 0

„ prohibited

APPENDIX III.

217

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Iron (continued) :
Plate (not tinned over) under f of an
inch thick, in plates weighing 6 lis
punds or under ....
In plates weighing more than 6 lis
punds 
Tinned 
Blails of 2 inches and more in length .
Forged or flattened, nails of every-
other kind, as well as all other iron
manufacture, not stained . .
Old iron, either cast, forged, or flattened
Tin (articles in), not named nor varnished
,, „ varnished
Beans (soup) :
„ large beans of all kinds, come under
the heading of peas.
tificial flowers . ...
„ parts of .
Thread (besides sewing-thread and me
tallic), cotton single or double,
in skeins or reels, not coloured-
coloured, called Turkey
„ all other 
Remark. — In case of any doubt on the
part of the custom-house officers, as
to whether a manufacture declared
to be thread, of doublet cotton,
ought not to be classed with thread
for sewing, the owner is held, with
the view of his having the benefit-
of a smaller duty, established in re
spect to doublets or thread lining,
to authenticate the goods that they

1 skeppund

1 livre
1 skeppund 1 livre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

, prohibited
, 8 24 0
,500
„ 7 24 0

0 36 0
2 0 0
0 12 0
0 16 0

15 0

0

6 12

0

0 4

0

0 8

0

0 12

0

218

APPENDIX TH.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

belong to this last class by a sur
veyor's certificate, which will be ex
amined.
Thread (continued) :
Chevron-hair, called also camels' hair,
not coloured, twisted or doubled .
Coloured, twisted and doubled .
Bope yarn ......
Combed wool, not coloured, nor
twisted, nor doubled . . .
Coloured, twisted or doubled .
Wool carded, not coloured, twisted,
or doubled .....
Coloured, not twisted, or not doubled
Coloured, twisted and doubled, such
as embroidery thread
Streichgam — twisted thread of carded
wool or yarn, for woollen tissues,
all wool or half wool — when, in con
sequence of a special demand, ad
dressed to the College of Commerce,
foreign thread of this kind is ac
knowledged to be necessary for the
fabrication of the said tissues, and
that the college authorises their im
portation.
Not coloured 
Coloured 
Flax, not coloured ....
Coloured 
Wire-work for sewing of gold and
silver, refined ....
Gold and silver, base
Iron and steel not specified
For the manufacture of articles re-

Import
-Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

livre 0 4

0

„ 3, 0 10

0

,, 0 12

0

..,06

0

„ 0 8

0

„ 0 18

0

„ 0 20

0

0 16 0

11

a

8 0

0

11

n

0 10

0

11

_,_,

0 24

0

it

n

0 36

0

Hod

it

0 8

0

11

,,

0 5

0

1 livre

a

0 6

0

APPENDIX in.

219

Thread (continued) :

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

quiring thread of foreign steel, im

ported by special license
100 feus
10 0 0
Of copper and brass not silvered
1 livre
11
0 8 0
Silvered 
,,
}J
0 36 0
Sewing cotton, ,white or coloured, ii
balls 
11
0 24 0
11
0 16 0
Linen (flax) raw
33
11
0 24 0
Bunches, white 
33
1 0 0
Coloured .
33
11
0 32 0
Twine
1 livre
11
0 8 0
,,
11
0 2 0
Nets of all kinds and name
100 feus de val.
it
33 16 0
Moulds, pitchers, and pots for sugar re
finers ....'..
l.livre
it
0 0 2
„ for the impression of tissues anc
1
the manufacture of paper
100 feus
11
10 0 0
Fringes, lace, and bands :
Of gold or silver, pure
Hod
0 1610
Gold and silver, base
Jt
it
0 10 0
Wholly of silk, or mixed .
1 livre
!}
0 20 0
a
,1
0 4 0
Cheese of every kind
1 lispund
a
1.12 0
Fruit and berries, not specified, fresh
1 tunna
il
0 36 0
Preserved in brandy or vinegar.
1 livre
,,
0 9 0
Dry 
1 lispund
„
0 32 0
Gloves (of skin) of all kinds
1 livre
it
0 2 0
Boxing — come under the class Stock
ings.
Juniper berries ....
1 tunna
il
0 20 0
Gingerbread, dry ....
1 livre
,,
0 1 10
„ preserved .
a
ii
0 16 0
it
,,
0 5 0
Birdlime of all kinds, not specified .
• a
„
0 3 0
Gum of all so rts, not named
31
a
0 3 0
220

APPENDIX III.

Pitch and tar .
,, lees of
„ of pit-coal
Gutta-percha, worked
Grease — pork and goose
Plumbago
Fish-hooks Clothes — body-linen, as linen and bed
furniture, not named :
New, for women, ready-made cloths
imported .....
Remark. — Lace and blonde-lace ought
to be treated separately.
Other See elsewhere the-table of articles ex
empted from the right of importation,
Clock and watch-making— gold watches
Other 
Clocks and pendulums in bronze fol
low the class of metals of composi
tion, not named, worked
Materials for clockmaking, not named
Hops, Oil, fat,, of hemp
Other, not capable of assimilating to
medicinal substances
Oil, volatile, or essences, not named
„ fish, and fat offish of all kinds .
Mead 
Instruments — of surgery ....
Mathematical, optical, physical, and
for navigation, mathematical com
passes and mathematical cases
Compasses ....
Spectacles and eye-glasses

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 tunna

1 livre
1 lispund 1 livre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

e. s.
1 16
0 44
0 32
0 12
0 2
0 20
0 24

100 feus de val. „ 33 16 0

?'

prohibited

each it

J,

2 0 0
0 32 0

1 livre

10 0

n

,,

2 0 0

1 lispund

„

1 24 0

1 livre a

31

0- 0, 6
0 14

a

33

0 5 0

1 lispund

3)

0 6 0

1 kanna

,,

0 12 0

100 e"cus
33

,;

5 0 0
25 0 0

3*

„

15 0 0

31

33

25 0 0

APPENDIX III.

221

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

Instruments (continued) :
Optical glasses, and instruments of
other descriptions, not named
Musical, flutes, hautboys, and ela
lionets 
Guitars and lutes
Violins 
Violoncellos and double bass .
Horns and trumpets .
Tambours and timbrels
Harpsichords and organs (portable)
Harps 
Square pianos ....
Grand pianos ....
Others, not named, pay the duties
imposed on those instruments above
marked which are of the like nature.
Remark. — Articles, necessary, im
ported separately, are charged 15
per cent on their value.
Ivory, worked 
Bushes and reeds for canes
„ „ marsh, rattans & others
Lemon-juice — (See Lemons).
Liquorice .......
Bacon, lard 
Wool, combed or not, raw, from Jutland
and Island, or all other analogous
places 
All other 
Remark. — Eaw wools cannot be im
ported but through the ports of
Stockholm, Gothenburg, Norrko-
ping, Malmo, Hulmstad, and Hel
singborg. The general administra-

100 feus val.
each

5 0 0

1 16

0

2 0

0

1 0

0

3 16

0

4 0

0

5 0

0

16 32

0

15 0

0

50 0

0

100 0

0

1 livre

„ 124

0

1 lispund

„ 0 32

0

"

„ 0 4

0

1 livre

3, 0 2

0

1 lispund

„ 0 36

0

1 livre

,, 0 2

0

;,

„ 0 6

0

222

APPENDIX III.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

tion of customs is empowered to
control in any way it may judge
requisite, to stop pure wool being
imported for common wool.
Brass, not worked, comprising beaten
iron plates and rolled plates for
wire-drawing ....
„ gilded 
,, worked, of all sorts, melted, forged
or stamped, comprising tinsel .
Lamps, of composition or worked, not
named 
„ wicks, for lamps, wax-lights, and
candles 
„ lacker, natural and varnished
Yeast, compressed 
Lees of wine ......
orks, in shapes 
iles 
Lemon-juice — (See Citric Acid).
Flax, not carded .....
„ carded *.....
„ for the manufacture of sails by spe
cial permission, carded
f„ not carded ...
Spirits of all kinds 
Litharge (oxide of lead, or half, of all sorts)

Books, in the Swedish language
„ bound, containing only white or
ruled paper, are subject to the
same duty as the paper of which
they are made, with an increase
of 50 per cent.

1 livre

100 feus

1 livre

0 16 0
0 36 0
0 24 0
33 16

1 lispund

1 kanna
1 livre „ 0 0 8
100 Sous value „ 20 0 0

0 20

0

0 6

0

0 1

0

0 1

6

0 6

0

0 4

0

1 8

0

2 0

0

0 24

0

0 12

0

2 24

0

APPENDIX III.

223

Import

Units upon
¦which they
levy duty.

Duties in
Bank
Crowns .
e. s. r.

(See elsewhere the table of goods ex

empted from import duties.)

Lustres, of composition, not named .
100 feus.
„ 33 16 0
Remark. — ¦ The detached pieces are
subject to the same duty as the ma
terial of which they are made.
Steam-engines 
31
„ 10 0 0
Machines and mechanics and their rela
tive pieces, not specified
„
„ 25 0 0
1 livre
„ 0 12 0
Maize, or Indian corn ....
1 tunna
„ 1 0 0
Merchandise which cannot he comprised
in any of the dispositions of
the present tariff, raw mate-
„ exempt
„ more or less worked
100 feus
„ 33 16 0
each
,,040
1 livre
,,020
,, for lamps, wax-lights, and candles
,,
,, 0 20 0
Mercury, native, or quicksilver
,,
„ 0 4 0
Metals, composed, mixture of metals in
form of plates or nails, for the
sheathing of vessels
1 skeppund
„ 1 16 0
„ other, of all kinds, raw
,,
„ 33 16 0
,, worked 
1 livre
,,100
,, iron- ware, and old composed me
tal, having been already used,
of all kinds ....
1 skeppund
„ 16 32 0
1 livre
,,010
Looking-glasses, common, and chande
liers (with jets) 
100 feus
„ 33 16 0
1 livre
,,010
„ the flower of ... .
n
„ 0 6 0
13
„ 0 8 0
Mother-of-pearl, worked .
33 j
„ 0 40 0
224

appendix rn.

Mats
Nickel Bone-black, or bistre
Lamp-black Nuts, cocoa
„ common and other .
„ ga11 • •
Articles arising from manufacture
trade, not named in the tariff

Geese, salted and others .
Onions, of all kinds, not named
Birds, killed ....
Olives 
Gold, worked ....
„ beaten in leaves, pure .

mosaic, or metallic powder imi
tating gold ....
wire, ribbon, or spangles, pure

fringe, lace, small wares, and gold
strings, pure

Oranges, sweet
„ bitter
„ peel ....
Table-ornaments, decorations, trays with
appurtenances, not named .
Bone, worked ....
Wadding, cotton
„ silk ....
Tools, of every sort, not named
Works, varnished or lackered, not named
Garden-mattings, of straw or roots .

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

1 lispund

a

0 6 0

1 livre

}?

0 10.

1 lispund

a

0 8 0

1 livre

„

0 2 0

.each

a

0 10

1 kanna

it

0 2 0

1 livre

ti

0 16

100 feus

it

33 16 0

1 livre

ti

0 2 0

l-16th of a tunna

ti

0 40 0

1 lispund

it

0 10 0

a head

11

0 6 0

1 kanna

11

0 12 0

Hod

it

10 0

11

11

0 8 0

11

il

0 0 8

11

0 10 0,

11

11
11

0 4 0
0 2 ,6

11

il

D16 0

It

,,

0 10 0

1 livre

-

0 16
0 16

a

It

0 2 0

100 6cus

11

33 16 0

1 livre

73

0 .9 0

it

3}

0 8 0

t?

,,

10 0

100 ecus

„

25 0 0

1 livre

'33

10 0

100 ecus

25 ,0 0

i-roquil Import
ni aaiJad nrj.fjj *;i<;TJ Units upon Duties in
AuzQ. i-,.:.U ,!jnij/ which they Bank
.anwoiO .'viub i.ial levy duty. Crowns.
,'t .s .a e. 5. r.
Straw (tressed), for bonnets or hatsisq -.,,,.,. ,,,,!i 1 livre.., ¦, .~.-,,,,„-,,l 16 0
Wafers  ,J(. !j jt, oyoIWj ,„:, 'io ,;- „--;-i0 18 0
BftsUgfcsjJ conipositioavipit manufapture.d, oo'ium
0 ntttfjamed . . ^ . . ... 100 feus , i ..,„ . 33.16 ii0-
Bap©S:0 „ „ . Ll-.li -^h-.-A ;na j-i-Sn-ufi.
0 ^n-vslopes, grey or varnished, and for . . . j.iliii-.rijW
cigarettes . . . ¦:.1.-j.-i'j . , _, ^.jllivrie,,,, ,,•, ,,,,,, 0 J. 8
Board, waste sheets of, and stuff ) . . ,;., >)•,,, j. j '„¦ , „ 0 13
0 <R}inting^ sized or unsized, for reports Hum
0 3ia§.d hangings . ^ . . . .
Imperial, royal, medium, and,; pie*
0 £ Pfrant( . . v . . , . , .
0 J^rjjing, and all other white paper,
0 tinqt named . . ¦ . .
q Letter, of all kinds . . . ,
0 Yjaigiished, figured, printed, embel-
q <.glished(i gold or silver . . ?\...,
q Pasteboards to press cloth
(, ^aijjgings and borders
Ujabjellas and parasols ....
Parchrnent . . .
Scents, of all kinds . . . . .
S(nalJ wgres — fringes, laces, cordons, &c.,
0 0 <J in silk or mixed silk .
:„ j.<. „ other . it .
Fjsh-skirjs, prepared .
Skins, not included in the class of furriery,
raw or dry . • . . ,, ,,, .
„ reckoning from 1853, skins, raw or, „, , /;0;-jj;''t jij;-w ly.-nn-hj
dry, will only pay . .-, ^. , , jt,Jt.,, „.,i> ,,..„ 0 1 10
„ other .... ....... <;L' 30 -,--. >i ,u .i!.",!.0;1 °
,,,,, prepared, white or chamois .
, ,, . cprdwain, or dyed or printed
„ varnished . - . . . , .,, . >,
(.„ .fine, for gloves, cases and porte- Q

„ -A-jr.M -.tin, 0

2,

6

7. . - „ 0

4

0

„ >:>.¦!, r,i 0
„ ; o

3
4

0
0

y.nd <,
'jiii j ¦ 7i' tin'3-it- , n 0 5
11 :„',_. „ 0 0
.. u.x4 » « ° 16
each .,.yji „ ,., 2 0

0
20 0

llivre „.,;, 1

0

0

(,,...„. , !...- „ ., 0 12

0

>J lillfi ,13 .« ^ P

0 00

'j! -."j '/WW.'. Kill^A — A 1 '.-iW
ni ;r • jj \,i\u ]>'• ¦ it ^

¦iji ,2

0

»>

nP 12.

0 .,

,,1 24

0

(J

?J

,j 0 20
cryJiiA1.

0,7
I

226

APPENDIX m.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

feuilles, &c, with the special per
mission of the College of Com
merce ....
Skins, other, not named .
Furriery, raw, beaver-skin
„ chinchilla ....
,, sheep's and lamb's, grey fur of
Crimea, and black, called Cal-
muk ....
,, other black
„ all other, covered with then-
wool ....
„ ermine or weasel
„ wild cat's . . .
„ badger ....
lynx ....
„ fisher-weasel and their tails
„ mink or noertz .
„ wild goat ....
„ rein-deer ....
„ fox 
„ small rat (racoon)
„ seal 
„ sable, and tails
„ otter ....
,, all other kinds of fur
Remark. — Skins more or less dressed,
or prepared and sewn in sacks, are
classed with furriery raw (or natu
ral), above shown, according to the
kind, with an increase of 25 per cent.
Pearls, false, in glass ....
„ other ......
Wigs, articles of hair-dressers and wig-
makers ......

1 livre

„ 0 16

0

„ 0 24

0

„ 0 20

0

„ 2 0

0

„ 0 30

0

„ 0 15

0

„ 0 *

0

„ 0 18

0

„ 0 24

0

„ 0 12

0

„ 0 16

0

„ 1 32

0

„ 0 32

0

„ 0 3

0

„ 0 10

0

„ 0 18

0

„ 0 20

6

„ 0 3

0

„ 6 0

0

„ 0 24

0

„ 0 32

0

0 10 0
0 2 0
3 16 0

APPENDIX III.

227

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

Phosphorus 
Stones, sharpening, and razor-strops
„ flint, cut, except agate .
„ all other articles in stone, not named
(See elsewhere the table of goods ex
empted from import duty.)
Pencils 
Pipes (smoking) mounted or not, in meer
schaum, real or false .
„ other 
Plaster (works in) .
Lead, raw metal, pigs of lead, &c. .
„ wrought, not painted or varnished
,, painted or varnished
„ lead mine or graphite .
,, oxide of lead ....
,, small shot, or shooting .
Pens (writing) of all kinds, except steel
pens or metal pens . . .
Feathers or plumes — ostrich and other
„ for bedding, refined . •
Hair of cows and other animals, except
horsehair. (See Horsehair.) .
Fish, salted or pickled — anchovy, sardines,
and tunny ....
cod, ling, and stockfish . .
salmon 
herrings .....
stroemings (Baltic herrings) .
all others ....
dried or smoked
salmon and eels .
ling, cod, and stockfish,, comprising
rotscher, as well as klipfisch,
stockfisch, andplatfisch

1 livre
the 100
1 livre
100 feus

the dozen
1 livre 33
100 feus
1 skeppund 1 livre 33
1 lispund
1 livre

100 feus
1 lispund 1 livre

1 tunna

1 lispund

0 8 0
0 24 0
0 10
15 0 0

0 9 0

0 24 0
0 12 0
25 0
1 6
0 1
0 6
0 20
0 1
0 3

0 8 0
33 16 0
2 0 0
0 6 0

0 8

0

2 12

0

2 32

0

0 30

0

0 30

0

1 42

0

0 10

0

1 12

0

0 16 0

228

AP^ENpjX.ffJ.

Fish, Oitjher . ,..,..,.
Pepper, pf all kind , , , ,,j.
Bitch and resin •, ,rl i •
Pitch, pil of . .,,,-: • [, ,
Bosin . . . . . . ,,
Pomatum .....
potatoes . ¦„...: „•' ¦ ,
,, fecula of . . .
(jjhina, rjorcelaine, fme<;white or coloured.
,, .., (, pure. . .
i, ,f , .gilded or ornaflaieij/ied, figured

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 lispund
.-^l,li

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.
:0-2O. 'Ol
0 3;,,0<
i,. ... „,;-.,& 1Q. 0
•„ .•,»., l« niwil'ji.l n. . - »>¦ P 5. 0
¦ ')., „Mi,l»,li -.,,,.1 ,-.»»' , P'W 0
.,.,.,,,1, .lliyr? ,,,,,(( I,,,:,j,,P- 28 0
. ' 1 tunna „ . 0 16 Ol
. j,,,, IJispuna,, , „i- -,ft,24, „0s
,*l,;l -im ij./i .iimr.il'ia
llivre „ , 0 ,8..0
J, ,,p-,12 ,0

;, | used in scientific (pursuits cani be
r, f> imported free from duty by the me-
ii i ,-_• djcal profession, and) scientific men,

'I .'
i.-ihiii.,] l-.n .!il','4M"! "
i,-:i\..hr\ui -il IjoJflui'i
L,.,iiliII;T;. '!<> onim J'-j:'j(

*• [ | when the quality (and quantity have
i, ,; been stated to the College of Medi
cine at the Academy of Science,
ii , and when their importation has
i, ;,|b?.en sanctioned, in, |
Bprt(jjbligs, carpet-b^g^.iSqci
Potash, raw
„ „-, (refined or c^lcujed
Earthenware, not named .
GunpowderPowder, for powderjrig^j .,
Cjhemical produce, not under any special
f, tariff, imported for the use of manu-

lih.ni!;-. -jo ..loll* ILiiiiix ,,
x.l.ili j II.'. li. (yilMi-l") >ill-/l
i-.li:>,| lj.,-,Jii 'lo K1IV]
¦lull,].. J.flJJ il'.MIi.M l-UMIll-l To S-.T, I !,)-,. V't
; . 100. feus value .; j„,;25 .0 0
,;.,,.:i ,i;:,l lispund i , , „ .ft, lnO:
• (.-iiliii,,. >,.;, or,;-,) ,, i.iO 16; 0
„.,.,,. (.t,(„..l,livre ,,|.,;,, .„..-, 0 3' ,0.
71 1 ii,. > iprohibited
,1,11.: ,7 . I,,;',.. „¦ ,:Q,,4„0
III, mil:!-! .,
r: .lli-ri-ill

(| factures, when the College of Com- ... ,,,:.,.,.,,! ujj|, ;| i , -. ,,„,,, ,,-i.if.
f| marce, in consequence of a special de- , Vll\ u> jjr
. rnand, has authorise^ an importation Uol.u. -,,, li- ill-
() ofjthpm ... . . 100 feus de val. , „ .,,5 0 0
Chemicals for the use of surgeons, (See,,,,, ^.^ , M, j , ri j|
Medicinal substances not named.) . , ., , t, - . , i, -

Qninqp^a, bark of, not ground

.IpW. ,il:»Kil

.0 16

appendix ni1.
)v ilirf
"'""'•" ,!.-.¦¦:: Hi-.r/l Units upon
ji.-ijII ¦(-.' -l '-•'»¦ " which they
m,/.,r> .voi" (/->! levy duty.
Quinquina, ground, inifjorted by surgeons 1 livre " ''"".
» i„ " -roots of .••.... „ '•*-.'«;-
Roots, 'eatable, of ftll-'kihds, not named- . 1 tunna ,
'< ,',- ' 'chicory. '"V !''¦"'/ . , • . -.llivre'' ' ',,
Arrackj (See Brail'dy .)> '
Raisins, fresh .... .-"';¦'¦"" ¦'.¦-'-''¦' ¦"' ''"'"j,1' :;'-",;- J-
„ dry . . . . ¦: •''-": •¦" ' '"' „' "'¦'• :\ ,
Currants  „. ._., ,...:;. , ¦;„ „iV o. •„-!) .or
Liquorice, juice of . . .''' ' .-- ""-:"" »¦" ,-, " ,
0 :„ 0 root ,'iiT. . . • . „ "- ',
Spring^) of all kinds  100 feus ;
Rice1,! iii straw, or paddy .' . . '.'¦"'"" -'I'tunna'"' '•';
„ from 1853, this article will pay ¦'.-'.-"-"' '¦"'., ''¦
'J ,," other,. (See Oa,tineal.)
Bum. ''(Sea Brandy.)..
Reeds. 0 (See Rushes.-);, »il J ,;;if'« "J'':' r'' ';''J*'"
Ratfcanjor Indian reed1.-' (See Rushes.)- f-.-jm « - -"J- . '-
ffiibbbDl-itrade, velvets'.- '¦(... • lhvre
„ other ribbons in silk . .' '.'•'' «¦'•¦¦".:',','¦¦
-)-,--. /.-in mixed silk . . . ¦ '.-"¦'-¦ *'•' ,, '-' '
> >, 'jin cotton, wool, and othermaterials „
Sacks, new, wide .... --"•"; '"": '" ' ,', ¦"' ''""
Saffron!, ... . .-¦'-!'. . '. ''¦-. "-'-¦'¦ '-'•''!'i',
Saltpetre, raw and refined
„ of Chili, or nitrate of soda,' -for ¦ -'-'-''¦''' -'-'- "; ¦'¦"'
the making of aquafortis-'-and*-* o: .¦¦.-.'.'-.-; .-../
'j C 'j ..other manufactures, imported -
0 c 0 . ,in quantities recognised as ne- •"-' "-' '- ,jr:-
¦j .'-; (, ^.cessary, with the authority of' .«.'.'.-*£"¦
i j '.,) 0 ,, the College of Commerce • . - 1 lispund -''
gatwges ,. . ¦.::.;¦-' ..... ¦ 111™
goap, gcenfed, and-.balls' .... >, •
„ common. . . . ""•' - ¦'-'-" ¦'" ¦»
0 ,<; ?oft,, common. . . . v. . llispUBd".'
Sculpture in wood and architectural wprks 100 feus - ¦¦-'-¦¦

22-9

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

e. s.

r.

'¦' 0 24'

0

,'" 0' 0"

8

, 0'24"

0

, "b1 o ¦¦
li-.:

8

A 0' 6"

0

/ 0 1

6

;'"o 2

8

;•'-' o 2

0

„ ' 0" 0'

8

;-"33'16

0

A' 1 24

0

!, 112

'0'

„ 2 24

0

„ 5 -0

0

„ 2 24

0

„ 10
,,¦"0 6-
„ '1 0

000

;', prohibited

0 " 6" A)
0 8 0
0 16 0
•' 0 - 3 '6
-0 36 0
15 ¦- O'-'O

230

appendix ni.

Salt — sal-ammoniac ....
„ Saturn sugar 
,, rock ......
„ Glauber salts 
„ for the manufacture of soda, when,
in consequence of a special de
mand, the College of Commerce
has authorised its importation .
,, medicinal .....
„ refined ......
Serpentine marble or stone, worked .
Syrups of CapiUaire, mulberry, violets,
and roses 
Silk, coloured 
Bran, other materials than grain
Soya (Japan sauce), and sauces
Brimstone 
„ for the manufacture of sulphuric
acid by special license .
Soda 
Sugar moscovado, or sugar raw and yel
low, clayed and white moist sugar .
„ reckoning from 1853
,, cones, Havannah clayed, and other,
similar with respect to saccharine
riches 
„ refined, loaf, and candied
,, molasses, brown and white
Amber, worked 
Suet, fat 
Stearine .'...,..
Window-blinds, in cotton, flax, or hemp,
coloured or printed ....
Tobacco, in leaves . . . ,

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

lhvre
1 tunna
1 lispund
1 tunna

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.
0 2 0
0 16
0 12 0
0 0 8
0 36 0

a

exempt

llivre

n

0 10

a

a

0 0 8

1 lispund

a

0 16 0

llivre a

•¦

0 3 0
2 0 0

1 lispund

,,

[0 5 0

1 kanna.

lf

0 36 0

1 lispund

33

0 12 0
exempt 0 0 8

1 livre

13

0 3 0

i>

31

0 2 3

a

11

0 5 0

tt

,,

0 5 0

,,

33

0 3 0

a

13

0 40 0

1 lispund

33

0 24 0

llivre

31

0 5 0
0 10 0
0 7 0

APPENDIX

ni.

231

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

Tobacco, cigars 

11

ivre

e. s. r.
,016

„ cut up, in packets and barrels

,

, 0 14 0

,, canaster . ...

t
, 0 36 0
}
, 0 16 0
„ in ropes, called nigger-head
i
, 0 10 0
„ in sticks and rolls
,
, 0 18 0
,040
Toy trade, writing tablets in slate .
1
,010
31 33 other
,
,050
100 feus val.
, 25 0 0
Remark. — Wire-work for sieves (me
tal) is classed with the material of
which they are made.
Tamarinds 
Tartar, raw or refined ....
„ Bait of 
Turpentine 
„ oil or essence of
Tea 
Thermometers 
Tissues, stuffs* of pure silk
„ gauze and crape, and other
,, pure silk, mixed stuffs of gold
and silver, real
„ false
„ velvets 
Remark. — When nothing but silk is
imported, the stuff will pay as pure
silk, when even the wrong side is
cotton.
„ all stuffs mixed with silk, as taf
fetas, satin of the Levant or of
any name, of a pure colour,
llivre
M
0 1
0
n
It
0 1
6
n
11
0 3
6
a
ti
0 2
0
n
11
0 1
6
a
it
0 12
0
each.
il
0 28
0
llivre
it
1 24
0
a
il
6 0
0
J}
li
20 0
0
it
3l
6 24
0
4 0
0
* By stuff in Sweden is understood (alngods) tissues, ' which are soldjby the ell
(in Swedish, aln).
B32 .uwwfflsa'wr.
tinqotf Import
ni ?.-«tii<r nmpi s-lirtll Units upon Duties in
jlnrEi Yoilj ihiiivr which they Bank
.sow.n.') .v.Juh rrjl levy duty. Crowns.
.< .-. .» «• «¦ r-
3X0 ^lac^chacis4rstripes,.showdng • rw^io .ooocdoT
0 il 0 ^neither flowers nor wo^en'i-fitlj™ i-J:^'' 'I (ri t'l" Jo° «
0 nC i ,gures. ,< ... - -raiajuyjcprohibited
Missies', all-other, not'named . . ¦ . "llivre ¦ n,,;;'s 6 "0 0
0 % ° shawls and gauze kerchiefs W0'^ bolSm <W™ ni. "
'Other transparent tissue, Wad- "
0 * ° -ding silk,' -and fashioned' by ' • • adh "" "
0X0 • i- t. n. 3.1 -uodnls ni eJeldxii pnidhw .oluni voT
printing or 'by figuring, which, d '•
0 S ° -however, cannot be likened to TOlfJo
0 ° '"'- shawfenffhaMercbiefswhich • • ?0™i&
have but one flower prffiec! SP'B ^ ™w->ii7/' - -\™«. A
each corner, nor to lortg sfeiiwff fn odJ ri3iv' I,0?8nI° ?X (tat
whose borders only are printed .of'/intOTB voitt ifoMy Q ,,
0 £ ° all-others, ^HStf only those which • • • a'-'™™'"- C
u are mixed or coloured, but also
080 those which are fashioned" by ¦ • • • lo ilaa "
0 S ° thegrouncVwork,orbythe-va- ¦ • • • eiritoq-mT
810 riety of tho-coloured silks • . ¦ lo 90"0880 'IO U° prohibited
" 7/ " of half silk or of mixed silk, more ¦ • , • ¦ p'°
0 f- 0 or less offeofton, flax, -wool; or • • ¦ B'lOJornonrcoilT
0 iS X other maNBrial, stuffs, ragged . • iUa;™'qlo 'afiriB j-r^E^
0 0 0 ... ,. . toxIJo brin ,oqjna bufl '. .-:ux.-o
„ other ..".-... \, „ 2 21 0
Won lo Bnttjg b'zmr ,JIia o-rr q ,,
„ ,_pf half silk, &o. shawls and hand- , .. .
0 " d. „ ., ... Ibbi ,-Kniis bats
, .„ „ kerchiefs, of less value than . ,
0 0 * 10rdr.,eaci . . . . _ _ ^yphibited
„ worth 10 rdr. and more, gasfe ,1r„- gtSQQog. Hatotr_.)!,in20)H.O 0
„ cotton: stuffs, white, ¦xoTrrmon7j:qiJiw''n;.r4a orl^ Jiofooqm-f
cambric muslin, bleajdhefliaqgno-iv,- odi rravo iredw tj[[ia
calendered, as well as all other .noJioo
cotton stuff of a like .Ts&h&p pfilia dirtr bexim afinite lis „
more than 76 threads taandnti^To J. oi[ilo oiira ,bjiJ&i
and being of at least 6 ,qnafitsrs-mci .< lo ,smr.a \nB
¦wide  llivre ,,100
I!o oitt -{0* l.l, -- .i. n ,;rtV ,E"j.. -il ,'-J •-. .'¦-! r-,- ¦• Vision ei , -..' ,-,ii- ni- i.'-iz 73 *
„ called corderoy and corded, sin- . , . . ,'
' .(n5a ,neiii!>-ff8 ni)

r°1.™I . ., Import
nrMilud n-i-iiif.'inU Units upon Duties in
iltir.ll '(mil il-jiitvf which they Bant
.en-woiD .-i.tub-i.rA levy duty. Crowns.
*"v -a *a e. s. r.
gle and double velvetjialsa &&-hn-<<\ ^Thrla : riodloa lo aeueaiT
0 OX 0 tins, jeanyahdl swan-skin . . . .BOrtmj'JbliJitteo (ha-ir,, o 32 0.
Tissues, called dimity, fine camljftfi.jmug;,™,.,, 070cfn ala„jR .lodio <t
Un, and batiste or fCamb^c, .„0i[o-i is.ai ^a.woi00
lawn  iKiri oi'.dirioncp, iImIs oliihrlft 0 40. 0
„ ofcotton: stuffs, white, ^gge^ t-,[ir.,a„, -.,, h™ J.m.J 0 8 0
„ counterpanes . • 0iU-.,t i-hcotcit 08 n»/H 370m w 0 16 0
j ), j gauze, lawn, muslins, and tarla- ,jDr[j
bojidido-K ^e ' '' ' ' • • >> ' .,^,.,1 0 0
,", J quilted and knitted . ' . " . „' „ 1 6 0
„ net or press-point m -&m ACid-mdbtti-A^bna aWs 1 ^ Q
„ all other stuffs not named' '¦¦"' !vf' in .--=-i* II/^o Jrarioiila X 12 o
„ fashioned by only the tovifig^'P °™0Pa T "t0'<t
mixed only with the -gMSffrotf ion oani-ii odi .ovocfc
0*1 work, as calico, cotton-cloths, • • Iiohi.'Io
&c  Hfi.lo t.f.ridJ Iv/iin.roo lo .f^injSt.ohibited
7Jmar*.-Tissues of wbiteT 'co'&rT1 ''oJflhcI l""> •''""'"'
which are imported as sttflfsj -aVe" odi <.™i''R"i' '-™"P3
beiidii^uy admissiMe in the -form of • ' f>ohuIacii
shawls and handkerchiefs, &i' $y| ™ °',0"T ¦miic"J hoyAm ' '
therefore the same duty a§bstmj[ ol'!Di 'Vuad b" n ;'f;"
0 8S according to their kind. • • • . * hnzkr.m
0 !>- ° of cotton: stuffs, coloured, called • ' ' bodioir
corderoy, corded, dimrty/fcqgs dim iorp/ib o-is: t-reiIJo
ged, quilts, gauze, lawn, tattoo ow[ oJ Wibl a;!H fl
boJHido-iqtane, cambric muslin, cambricprJ;-iu:"'^ ,8nuia :Ioowlo
single and double velve()p-sa*m,worfoY .oJhh/ .viorndanO
jean, swan-skin, quilted^itaip- 0 tifirfl s-iom gnrad
0 t2 X tpd, and all.stuffs, fashioned by . . . • 'jWw
the groundwork; the femelmininilo bjio'i/U ni Jarrrfr.fl
port duties a, livre, as wShStebm: bviin-n ,(mr,y)
stuffs according to theirriMrfdo Jra-iuoloo .boinno ,r."inv,
beJMWo-^fcited by the groundwork cto^'re^'P :0 irndi o'iora
0 08 0 of all sorts of a pure colour- . • • ™U°/p*ohibited
0 Yr ° of -various coloured thread . 'A-»Pao batt "^T'-^-pVohibited

234

appendix m.

Tissues of cotton: stuffs, printed or fi
gured, counterpanes
„ other stuffs above named, stuffs
coloured, that follow the class
of white stuff according to 'their
kind, and generally, all stuffs
of more than 80 threads to the
inch 
,, other 
„ shawls and handkerchiefs, fa
shioned of all sizes, and printed,
from 7 square quarters and
above, the fringe not being in
cluded 
united, of coloured thread of all
sizes, and printed less than 7
square quarters, the fringe not
included 
„ mixed cotton, more or less with
flax and hemp, table linen, da
masked .....
„ worked 
„ other, are classed with stuffs of
a like kind to pure cotton.
of wool: stuffs, swan-skin .
,, Cashmere, white, yellow, or red,
being more than 6 quarters
wide 
„ flannel, in thread chains of wool
(yarn), combed and weft of
yarn, carded, coloured, or being
more than 6J quarters wide
„ all other 
counterpanes and carpets .

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 livre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

0 16 0

,,140
,, prohibited

,,140
,, prohibited
„ 0 36 0
„ 0 24 0
,, prohibited
„ 1 24 0

„ prohibited
„ 0 36 0
„ 0 24 0

APPENDIX in.

235

Tissues — wool : stuffs, large cloths, called
frieze, Doffel and Calmuk
„ cloth, double - milled — ladies '
cloth, coarse kind, Petersham
and corduroy, also Cashmere
of other colours ; thus, white,
yellow, or red, or of a. width
exceeding 6 quarters
„ bombazine and quinette
,, for filtering, called packing
„ other, of all sorts
,, of half- wool, or of wool mixed
with cotton, hemp, or flax, and
where there is no more than
half wool, stuff, flannel .
,, other, of all sorts, being less than
7 quarters wide
,, other, being 7 quarters and more
wide 
Remark. — Tissues of half wool, con
taining more than half wool, are
classed with tissues of pure wool,
to which they can be most likened.
„ Shawls and woollen kerchiefs, or
of mixed wool and cotton, of
less value than Gr. 32s. each
worth Qr. 32s. and more each
of flax and hemp : stuffs, tow,
and canvas
tick for bedding .
packing cloth
table linen, damasked
„ „ worked
Cambrai and batiste (cambric)
lawn 

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

llivre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

0 32 0

,, prohibited
,,100 ,,030
„ 0 24 0

„ prohibited
„ 0 36 0
,,100

„ prohibited

100 ecus

„ 20 0 0

1 livre

„ 0 12 0

„ 0 21 4

,,094

,,200
33
0 36 0
33
„ 3 32 0
13
„ 1 40 0
A¥pfflffl:mi-.

Jioqrfrl
lli 4)UIlCI
¦Am II
.MW.O-l'l

Of p f -Jli,l'I
,,11 ll'Wllff
/lull I 'li

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Tissues, canvas cloth, 1 square-ellfeflfrnloh''*"'

ii

-.llf .f'ftrjia :
i 'i bai: <¦;!«,( \ .- ¦
lolIii/Hiivra'',,', I ,baid rjy ¦.'¦¦-¦ .ii-
call: , ',y ' 'if,rj i
'; ; ^7i,, ¦! ¦¦ -I'jiflf,
', 10 ..¦,-¦-,- TO ,77011

^ weighs 3'JtidS inclusive . .
,, all other . . . '-.•'¦
„ sails and tenting canvas '-";>'
„ canvas for carpets . '-' .'¦¦
„ other  ''>."'
„ handkerchiefs . . '';-."
ijcijj/iirottjade of hair and horse-hair
0 P, X waxed and varnished — carpets . o),iomrip v,ii; ¦i'.n~:-A\<v n
0 & 0 other . .... . • . ;'>Wi;q boUr., ,-;wbolii.^-
0 ,1,- 0 water-proof, or tissues doubled, • r)w-- ib; lo .T-niio
joined by means of Indria-*&bL"' ¦'¦' 1° TO .''"'.v-'llml 'io
ber .... i't;-.: .//.ii io .qrrt'jif ,:- Ijoi ;' -¦¦'¦¦

¦ h

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. a. r.
Uicu - siMiaf-iT
'„' prohibited
A,' ¦''¦'•I 32 0
i,' 0 4
¦'-,; 0 12
';; 1 0
•-, 1 0
",'j 0 20
';;-"- 0 6-
0 10

Truffles  •¦<¦-:> ¦'¦:
T5aitiIIero-rq.,  ',-.-
Basket-trade, not named . . -'.v -- "--j
©lasfiwire,. bottles, jugs, buckets^and de
canters (decanters cut andiftagdiw.
0 0 iiot included) :, ,
,, containing J of a kanna or les»'J ¦ i<
„ of J kanna exclusive, to J kan»a!in^" 't^'nl '"!•'' f
elusive . . . . , . J, --:-¦-: 'io * —
„ bottles, jugs, &o. containing .htore>lii v'<'" »'f 'v,
„ glasses of all kinds . . io,--v

.!<¦'

1 0
0 12
3 0
33 16

¦ ¦">.¦-'¦-¦¦¦;,¦',. • 1-liSpnnd '"'A''''
„ lustres .... 'lo/--., ., , but: q ij^re '" " '"
¦ ,, i'.'ioptical-glasses, not mounted i'ii"i ,-'¦'¦'• ¦"'<¦> «' ; hub.-t -, ¦ '
0 ,,j giMss,,withoutiiri^late, raw ori'nH^ vioj.-i bin; .-<.'-¦', .-,o j!iio«
polished . . . v/-;, ,-,';..¦« • 100'gciis : '
0 „-Xp6hshed, withoujiplaites . ... .-¦ vir.v, ]
J- ,,f-clbck,pr dial glasses . . . . <• . -1 livre ,;'''
t „0 other,, white or .coloured, not speci- iijoi-j ¦;.;.-
'J 0 ified. ...... - - -•- '. .no.-ii.
33
QuieKsirver. . .  i-'l-li^re ¦•
ViniSga* of all sorts  .-'¦. ''','; 1 kanna u-';
Wiie's of all sorts, in casks

100- ecus vklue
of-ivi" y.-l-ii-.l.l'u 7
-.i u-.'.jp ', -yni-iJ .lon'io .,
oliiv/
<-'rthel0G 'r'- „ -0^2 0
lo.'II -.'.jllini';!
nl'rii <"

2' 16 0
'4' 32 0
0 40 0
0 4 0
0 20 0

15 0
20 0
0 12
; 0 -8
0 4
1 0 -6
0 24

APPENDIX III.

237

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

1 kanna
|(jl,livre 33
17 lispund
1 livre

Import
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

1 0
0 18
0 24
3 0
0 1

MUAF AJ.l'A

.i-.-y/ld nr -o ah H taooC
1Uvre .,-,»' '.'-,?!." tu A

Wine of all sorts, in bottles
All things made of glass,-inofc cut, i , -. ^ . ,
. / X ../-}. Si A
37 „ cut, in designs .
Vitriol, green, or sulphate of iron .
„ other - 
Ship-canvas pays the duty imposed on the
cloth of which it- is composed, with
1 an^eUe '<Wo 'per cent. '•"'- ' '•-> :>>D 'i O
Carriages with 2 wheels, as well as.lftj.aiUeM
ones with 4 wheels, called trilla and
k droschki, and trucks or carts _.. .... ... each „ 25 0 0
Carriages of all other kinds ... , 66 32 0
(See elsewhere the table of merchan
dise exempt the import duty.)
Zinc, raw and in plates ....
„ worked, not painted, and not var
nished  it „'¦ "i)A
, ,, painted or. varnished .,, ,, „ , . „ , „.,0"6'
.--/filiti,,,-.; '.,n.! ,.,.,- ,- ji.j,-, lu.in-,-,.) -,-'\ lie l.i aran'i :ni?/i.-.-;iI.., ^ifftd .,•!, i,.
.y-ijiod ban t;:I[jjd <arroiIIijia \ s;rS6 di-io~A odi no ^nhoiyioJ
,hnbl V'lu/olo ^nivil tgo9-iT
.ed;i'iiI8
.bojfrow Jon ,-iuv!i3
:;j;[o oMVf
.i.v.u,-;irnsriel
.oxji odi xtji:; duo to ,nv;£3 <VM)-r ^gabiam-ioui'.'.aa bas vrirblitrd iqi J.uu'Jf
.bouij-.-.i dorr f.jou oiiji-.ii 't-jdiu brui ^Ijjo tdo*rid trfaood ,da£ <riiis u
.janurrj.o;: l.Hiy. tvii^-Jo <-hj.ojo tzod „
c ,-.;:v, >,i v.'l i,..'-,, i i .i. -.o Jr/rndriri voniq ban 'th ^,
.'i'jddr/-i-.iibal
.c-jiJuI-y bllB t'jiun Irj-jidqxiTgoeO
.on bssrr bnu bat!j tgniirjriq ,eqv,T
.o.j.-'k-i. diljirrjabio-^ bur. ^jriaA
.1,jod-;,ui0 .^liqg
.wan JlsriS

0,
lilJ_

APPENDIX IV-

A SPECIAL TABLE OF GOODS FEEE OF IMPOET
DUTY.

Bees, living in hives.
Agates, raw.
Alabaster, raw.
Amber, gray.
Angelica. Animals, living, sheep and rams of all the German States, and the countries
bordering on the North Sea ; stallions, bulls, and boars.
Trees, living, of every kind.
Shrubs.Silver, not worked.
"White clay.
Spermaceti.
Wood, for building and cabinet-making, raw, sawn, or cut with the axe.
„ elm, ash, beech, birch, oak, and other native trees not named.
„ box, cedar, ebony, and guaicum.
„ fir and pine, natural, or in blocks for sawing.
India-rubber. Geographical maps and globes.
Type, printing, used and used up.
Ashes and goldsmiths' refuse.
Charcoal.
Spikes. Shell, new.

APPENDIX IV. 239
Coral, pure, raw.
Old cordage, cut up, not exceeding two faumur long.
Horns, raw or rasped.
Cotton, in quantities.
Waste, parings and chips (shavings not named).
Rags.
Down of all kinds.
Tortoise-shell, raw state.
Bark of birch.
„ of pomegranate,
„ of all kinds, not named in the Table of Import Duties.
„ threads of peel or bark.
„ mat-fibre used for furniture or packing at the time of entrance.
Effects for the use of traveUers, brought over by the owner himself, when
they are found not to exceed the wants of the journey.
Movable effects, arriving on account of Swedish subjects who have been
established in a foreign land, where they have used them, if at the
entrance, in consequence of a special demand to the administration of
customs, these goods are recognised not to exceed the want of the
owner.
Enamel, in quantities.
Foreign craft, with rigging and furniture, captured in time of war by
Swedish vessels belonging to the State, or armed as a privateer, and
legally declared a lawful prize.
Emery. Whale-fetlocks, raw or spUt.
Beans called Tonquin.
Statues of every kind constituting works of art.
Hay. Shapes for boots.
Grain, except canary-seed, aU kinds.
Grasses, not named.
mats, or rope3 of grass, for furniture and packing.
Engravings, painted or Uthographed.
Groisil, or broken glass.
Clothes, belonging to sailors or to traveUers, when they have been evidently
worn, or when brought by the owners themselves, they are known not
to exceed their respective wants.
Lobsters.

Sift APPEJ}8^.}VA
Pit-ccal, coal-dust, cinders, and coke. ...ja oiuq IxitoO
Ivory, raw. .£iroi 'UJtiwt.1 owJ ^aihoooi^o dan %qu iuo ^-^ssh-too biO
lichens for dyeing of every sort. .boqeu-r -io \iai ,an-ioIl
Cork, .aur-ijujjjjp ni ^aoiioO
Books in foreign languages^gi^ejl;^^^^^)^^^^^^^^
Bibles printed in the Swedish language, given to the BibUcal Sociejtgr.gff
Sweden. .:-.!,.¦ d-A lit; 'io iwod
Manganese. ^ii:,s w_01 ^^u-jzlai-mT
Marble, raw or in block. dD.[[d lo .hjja
Medals of all kinds. .ottsai :¦¦ .„: » , lo
Medicinal substan,^,:, aU.pflt.^^g^n^kft'lJable ,pf Import Duties,, simple
and composed, admitted by the surgeons, only thpse authored, i>y the
CoUego .to.^port ;tbem, , or ,by scientific, men fqr.the, ,us$ of scientific
u,_, linstjtuti,^,, Jht), College, of , jMedipine, the,, Apadeniy.oX Sciences oj ther
Competent Faculty of the, Un^versitjy .haying^l^^con^uyed^ respect
¦ : _- _ *° -*-!:1*fie ,tes^- sJire.J.'.a dailjowg to imvcooo no yiivirns .aluo'llo eldCToM
Mfitals, raw^ajuj unsmelted, nqt. na.np.ed, ini;he; Table.pf Imporja,.,;.;i,jfijg9
Minerals, samples of, ifox-opjlepfaong in Natural IJistoiy, 00 nj 60BMjno
%iieyimgoA,*ve,l,vMdgoKB?r.;i ^.^ .^ ^^ _ A^rncdzrjo
Musk- .-renwo
Printed music. .^iiiiimup ni Join/inSI
Moth.er,of-pearl, raw. ...a-u, Jqra ,...; , „ Lnn , lyj; dihi Jit.-i-j i,-io-f,/-l
Objects fpr 9olleptions,ig,fl'ar1ural History, for cabiiiets,, (.jLtMlV xJaiJjov/a
Onions, flowers. _Mhq ^..^ J; ;j01j.jmIj vj,Ir,,0,
Birds, Uving. ™
Gold, not worked. .,,*,, , ,,.,', .-,,,-
Bone, raw and not worked, as weU as ground. .niiiMioT LoiJno eiv>;i\
Bone of cuttle-fish. _..,J;-lo e3ho,„ s1.j,„i;j,/K;j LA -,™, '!u aorrj, -18
Straw- .7^11
Pearls, fine real. >K^. uJ ^...j^
Magnets, not mounted. _6hlli;J 1Jj; j,, 0£.,n,„:J.;j j,,.,.^., A /lH
Precious gems. Lo(iIj;u ,ujr aMU
Chalk-stones. ,,_,±i.JIH bul: ^.rmt-h -roi lBs,n;:'io 8'.„(J-i -,u ,kJ<:„i tl
Stone, CornwaU granite. .WJ.^-.-oiL-il •i0,b-,i,i;,i„ -^mn.-i-ul
„ refractory, fire-proof. M >4 „,,.,,;„, '.,'„ ^.j
>}, . .:W-W*°?fsj marlstqne, and schistose stone for Uthographing. , -..^di^U
.'¦>< ..FffifeWii ^.-k^-^ orli .-,„,.,! ,WJ|„ -„, ,,,-A
,, aU others not named in the Table of Imports, raw or in blocks, „,
„ stone-kiln. , , .

appendix rv. 241
Pumice stone.
Specular stone.
Plants.
Platina, worked or not.
Plaster. Feathers for bedding, not cleaned.
Hair, not named, excepting that of the horse and cow, and other sheathing
hair.
Fresh fish.
„ skins of, raw.
Puzzolana.
Shave grass, horse-tails.
Root of barberry.

Sacks, full of merchandise, used for packing.
Blood of beasts, of aU kinds.
Leeches. Serpentine marble, raw.
FUnts, raw.
Silks, unbleached, not coloured.
YeUow amber, raw and not worked.
Pictures and drawings, framed or not.
Rotten-stone.Stems of raisins or grapes.
OU-cake.
TripoU pohshing slate.
Glass-ware, bottles, jugs, and decanters, used in being receptacles for im
ported goods, and which ought, by vh-tue of special prescription in the
Table of Import Duties, to be included in the weight of what is about
to pay duty.
„ instruments of chemistry.
„ phials.
,, broken glass or groisil.
Carriages, travellers', imported by themselves, and having been evidently
used, or the exportation of which from the kingdom is guaranteed.

242

APPENDIX IV.

TABLE OF EXPOET DUTIES.

Wood, cabinet, raw, sawn, or hewn with
the axe, of elm,, ash, beech, birch,
oak, and other native trees, not
named 
„ for building, of fir and pine, raw,
or in block-logs for sawing .
„ hewn with the axe, not named
„ poles 
„ sawn planks of oak and ash .
„ stakes of juniper, of aU
„ gun-stocks, rough-hewn
„ handspikes, rough-hewn
„ laths, strong, split, cut .
,3 33 33 sawn
„ masts, bowsprits, and spars, of 40
inches and more round, and 10
feet from the large end
„ of 20 inches inclusive to 40 inches
exclusive, round, and 10 feet from
the large end ....
„ less than 20 inches : idem . .
„ for pumps, not bored. (See Masts
and Spars.)
„ rafters and splints, more or less
long 
„ beams of fir and pine of a less thick
ness than 8 inches in the middle

Units upon
whicli they
levy duty.

100 ecus

each

the dozen
each

Export
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. r.

15 0 0

it

},

25 0

0

n

a

10 0

0

the 100

0 1

0

100 £cus

tJ

10 0

0

the 100

„

0 12

0

the dozen

n

0 12

0

n

a

0 12

0

a

a

0 4

0

ti

ft

0 2

0

2 0 0

„ 0 20 0
„ 0 12 0

0 9 0))
0 6 0»

APPENDIX IV.

243

Export

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Duties in
Bank
Crowns.

Wood/ staves and heads for casks, of a

e. s. -1-.

length of 34 inches or under for

the first, and of 22 inches or under
for the other : of oak .
120 in number
,,030
„ „ of beech, fir, and of pine
,,
,,010
,, ,,. above the said dimensions to
the length of 42 inches in
clusive, and 27 inches for"
the others : of oak '.
31
,,080
„ „ of beech, pine, and fir .
33
,,016
,, „ above these last dimensions :
of oak ....
13
„ 0 24 0
,, „ of beech, pine, and fir .
3-1
„ 0 12 0
„ oars and skuUs, raw
the pair
,,040
„ fire : birch 
1 faum
„ 1 24 0
„ „ beech and oak . . .,
33'
,,200
„ „ aU other ....
33
„ 0 36 0
Charcoal . . . . , ' .
12 tunna
„ 0 40 0
Old cordage, cut in pieces not exceeding
2 faum in length 
1 skeppund
,,100
Copper, raw, in sows 
,, st. v.
„ 18 46 0
„ „ molten ....
)>
„ 0 32 0
Copper, small, shot' in copper, or arti
cles in old copper or used, and copper
calcined (oxide of copper) .
33
„ 16 32 0
Shavings not named 
100 ecus value
„ 10 11 0
Bark of oak ......
1 tunna
„ 0 16 0
Tow, arising from old cordage .
1 skeppund
,,100
Rags (millinery wares). ....
1 lispund
„ 0 12 0
Iron, cast, pig, and in quantities for baUast
„ prohibited
„ bombs and buUets, rough and filed :
cannons, swivel guns and mortars,
stamped and bored, as well as- ar
tiUery carriages of aU dimensions . 1
skeppund, st. v.
,,040
244

APPENDIX IV.

Units upon
which they
levy duty.

Iron, cannons, mortars, and swivels, not
stamped and not bored
„ backs of chimneys of more than 1^
inch thick, rough hewn loads
weighing more than one skeppund
each ......
„ chimney backs of 1J inch or less
thick, just to 1 inch inclusive,
rough loads weighing one skep
pund, or less, to J skeppund, ex
clusive ......
„ cannons, bombs, mortars, and rejec
tion shot 
„ forged or flattened ....
„ in flat bars of finch and more thick,
and less than 12 inches wide, in
square bars of more than f thick .
,, in massiaux — in massive quantities .
Old iron, either cast, or forged, or flat
tened 
Refuse of pitch and tar ....
Lobsters  .
Minerals, raw or not melted, not specified
either in the Table of Imports, or in
the Special Table annexed .
Metals of composition, raw, of all kind
„ brass ware and old metal already
used, of all kinds
Bone, raw, broken, or ground .
Skins, not coming under the class of Fur
riery, raw and dry . . .
other 
Leeches 

Export
Duties in
Bank
Crowns.
e. s. ¦/-.

, prohibited

f, prohibited

1 skeppund, st. v. „ 2 0 0
,,200

0 4 0
0 12 0

1 tunna
20 in number

1 skeppund, st. v.
33
1 lispund
llivre

2 0 0
0 44 0
0 4 0

, prohibited 0 32 0
, 16 32 0
0 3 0
0 2 0
0 10
4 0 0

(AU goods not included in this table are free of export duty.)

APPENDIX V,

THE SWEDISH RAILWAY SYSTEM.
" The average price of land throughout the country is probably at the rate
of 181. per acre English,
The price Of agricultural labour is 8(2; to Is. per day.
The average charge per day for man, waggon, and horses, 3s. id.
The weight of ore, or timber carried) 2j skeppunds, or 940 pounds Eng
lish. The distance travelled per day is about 25 English miles. The price of
artisan work is from Is. 6d. to 2s. per day. The food of the working classes
is salted flesh, fish, eggs, milk, and bread in flat cakes ; they drink beer and
spirits to a great extent, and usually have the command of plenty of tea and
coffee. They are aU clothed in cloth and linen of their own manufacture.
The yearly expenditure of a man, his wife, and three chUdren, is, on an
average, about 101. to 122. sterUng, including house-rent, fuel, taxes, and
contributions. A working tradesman in Stockholm expends about 44/. per year.
The contract for food to the soldiers is about 5d. per day per head.
The revenue and expenditure were in 1840, 850,2402. respectively.
The ground capital of the country was calculated, in 1832, to be
31,550,0002. sterUng ; and the yearly value of agricultural produce, timber,
ores, manufactures, fisheries, &c, about 7J millions sterling, of which agri
culture was placed at 3| millions.
These brief statistical details suffice to show the pecuhar position of
Sweden, in regard of the rest of the world ; and that this kingdom is almost
as isolated commerciaUy as territoriaUy. As the value of the combined ex
ports and imports is very small, Uttle more than 12. 3s. sterling, per head,
of the population, the Swedes Uterally provide themselves with every ne
cessity, and that also in the most primitive manner. The wood-cutter,

246 APPENDIX V.
the charcoal-maker, the miner, the agricultural-labourer, and sheep and
cattle herd, are identical. The manufacturer also sows and reaps his own
bread. Every implement for manufactures, trade, agriculture, mining
operations ; also domestic utensils and furniture are aU manufactured and
supplied individually. It is, however, to be observed, that manufactories
of agricultural implements, are now springing up .in every province, one of
which has sold in a few years 400 iron ploughs. The country is, with some
few and graduaUy increasing number of exceptions, divided into the smaUest
agricultural sections ; and the peasant who tills his smaU property, cuts
wood, makes charcoal, digs ore, carries it to the smelting furnace, and
sometimes eveniuaUy to market.
Add to the loss of labour and capital, consequent on such a system, the
entire absence of proper communications between the mines, the blast fur
naces, the works, and the far-distant towns and seaports, and it may be
imagined, though hardly realised, what a striking change would result,
were this country opened up by trunk lines of raUway, running east and
west from Stockholm to Gottenburg, and north and south from Gefle to
Scania, with branches to important mineral and manufacturing districts,
and to the rising sea-ports.
A most important feature of the present state of communication is the
utterly defenceless state of the country. Remembering the political aspect
of the continent, the rapid and unlimited power of transport by steam, and
the great temptation to aggression of a kingdom with resources Uke those
of Sweden, what defence could be made ? for under existing circumstances
(except in the summer, when steamers are running), it would take 85 to
61 days to concentrate 32,000 men on any one point, and from 16 to 14
days to collect even 16,000 men any where on the Baltic coast, south of the
metropoUs-; whUe, with a proper railway system, as many hours would
suffice to raUy the whole population.
If the Swedes are thus placed nationally and commerciaUy at a serious
disadvantage with other nations, in every possible sense, no people enter
tain deeper convictions of the fajsity of their position, a greater appreciation
of the benefits to be derived from a new system, or more determination to
carry it speedUy into effect at any legitimate cost ; and having success
fully commenced the great work, they now seek to bring it to a successful
conclusion through the immediate aid of those experienced capitalists and
engineers, who have already assisted in developing the resources of other
nations. It is proper, therefore, to enter shortly into some detaU of the imme-

APPENDIX V. 247
diate mineral and agricultural advantages to be anticipated by the intro
duction of an efficient railway system, to penetrate the whole of the central
and southern provinces ; for the short line already commenced is but the
foundation of what is now proposed.
The most wealthy mineral division is that between Hult, on Lake Wen-
nern ; Koping, on Lake Miilaren and Upsala ; and to the north of these
towns as far as Gefle, Fahlun, and PhUipstadt ;, and especiaUy at Nora and
Linde, near Orebro and Koping, where there are most extensive deposits
of iron, copper, and silver ore. The iron, as already mentioned, is the^best
quality known to exist, being principally magnetic oxide of iron. The
mines yield at the rate of 50 per cent of ore, which contains 71 '79 parts of
iron, and 28'21 of oxygen. This is one of the most valuable ores, furnish
ing, by proper treatment, the finest quaUty. From the entire absence of
coal in Sweden, the expense in the present state of the communications, of
bringing the ore to the furnace, thence to the works, and subsequently to
the ports of export ; it may be conceived that the mineral production is
nothing to the vast capabilities of the mines|; and, in fact, that the existing
condition of transport amounts almost to a virtual prohibition upon the in
dustry of the kingdom.
Let it be considered, at what an enormous sacrifice of capital the pro
duce is slowly, carried, partly in waggons on bad roads, partly in canal-
boats, through the different stages of development, to the points of home
consumption, or to the ports of export. Precisely as with mineral ore, so
is it with timber, agricultural produce, domestic manufactures, passenger
traffic, &c. ; and knowing the exact state of the case, it is extraordinary to
mark how much tlie energies of an industrious nation have actually con
quered ; and it is difficult to conceive the effects, when proper faculties for
communication shaU bring capital to bear on the resources of the country,
and constitute each branch of production a separate trade, instead of the
existing hand-to-mouth system of barter. The means of the people are as
much wasted as their necessities are aggravated ; and it is notorious, that if
the wealth of Sweden were properly developed, and efficiently managed,
10 millions of population could be more easily supported than 3 J are now
sustained, and the country would eventually prove a large exporter of
food, and minister to the wants of the world in common with aU other
nations. It is not easy, without precise informatipn, to make any statement of
the cost of transport to be saved to the country by an efficient system of
railways, or of the exact traffic to be expected on the different trunk and

248 APPENDIX V.
branch Unes ; but an investigation of the average distances from the mines
and works to the ports of Stockholm, Gottenburg, and Gefle ; and of the
probable production yearly carried by long journeys in waggons by land,
and in boats by sea, by lakes and canals, to these towns, wiU show to some
extent the cost of the transport of minerals alone.
Calculating the present yearly production of minerals/ in the central
provinces, to be 150,000 tons, it is estimated that every ton, in its progress
from the mines to the works, and to the sea-ports of Stockholm and Got
tenburg, passes over an average distance of 10 mUes of road and 135
miles of canal, lake, and sea communication ; and that the cost of trans
portation amount to at least 20 per cent on the value of the ore, viz.
232,3402., or 2-56t2. per ton per mile.
Now assuming that the east and west trunk Une from Gottenburg to
Stockholm, and the branch lines into the mineral districts, would not
shorten the average journey of 145 miles of land and water communications,
the transport of 150,000 tons, at one half-penny per ton per nme, could
be effected for about 45,3122. ; a saving, of more than 20 per cent.
Conceive the saving of 20 per cent carried out on the conveyance of aU
produce, and in all passenger traffic, and remembering that the estabUshment
of railways wiU eventually double the production, and multiply by tenfold
the'passenger traffic of the country,- there can be Uttle doubt about the
profits to be derived from such a, railway enterprise, especiaUy where the
expenses of construction will not reach more than one-fifth or one-sixth
those of similar undertakings in Great Britain.
Having stated that a commencement in raUways had already been made
in Sweden, it is here proper to offer a short account of the steps that have
been taken to accomplish the desired end, and thus show the present posi
tion of the question.
In the year 1845 Count A. E. de Rosen proposed a general system of
trunk and branch railways for the kingdom, which, though opposed by the
then chief of the Ponts and Chaussees, was approved and warmly supported
by the king ; and the petition from Count Rosen for a concession of the
proposed Unes for a period of years was granted by his majesty, under cer
tain provisions and reservations. The royal ordinance, or preliminary
concession, dated 27 November, 1845, grants a concession for 20 years of
the privilege of making the necessary railways to a native and foreign
company with sufficient capital, provided that, prior to the issue of the
definite concession, the surveys, estimates, &c, should be presented to the
king by the end of 184-7.

APPENDIX V. 249
That, provided such stipulations were fulfilled by the company, they
should, by concession, be entitled to the uninterrupted possession of the
railways and their revenues. The fares for passengers and goods to be
regulated by a select committee, under approval of the king ; the company
to be entitled to the surrender of crown lands ; to have the power of pur
chasing private lands ; to have the right to erect thenecessary workshops,
manufactories, &c. ; the introduction of material free of duty ; the assist
ance of the crown's labouring corps and of the troops ; the free use of
crown timber, quarries, &c. ; provided the company Ipdged the plans at the
date specified ; gave his Majesty security in cauticn money, and were
subject to such regulations of inspection as his Majesty should think
proper. On the 29th October, 1846, the petition of Count Rosen to the king was
granted, that certain modifications of the prescriptions of the concession
should be made, and that it should not he interfered with by any one,
unless it was proved that the conditions of the concession were not ful
filled. The nepessary surveys of- the east and west trunk line, from Stock
holm to Gottenburg, were executed under the superintendence of the
engineer, Sir John Ronnie, and were submitted to the king by the end of
1847. A Bill was brought into ParUament, and carried in 1848, authorising
the construction of a trunk Une from Hult, on Lake Wennern, to Orebro,
on Lake Hjlmaren, a distance of fifty English miles, the state guaranteeing
' 4 per cent dividend, for 15 years, on 2,340,000 dollars, or 260,0002. ; to in
clude all the rolling stock and stations, &c. Count Rosen then came to
England, for the purpose of making^ the necessary arrangements ; but the
raUway crisis of that year supervening, the whole proposal feU to the
ground. A new bill was brought before the Swedish diet in 1851, for an extended
Une from Hult to Koping, on Lake Malaren, a distance of 96 EngUsh miles.
This was authorised, and 5 per cent guaranteed for 40 years, including
1 per cent sinking fund on a capital of 416,0002., or at the rate of 4,333'32.
per mue, English, to include station and roUing stock.
Count Rosen having made the necessary arrangements in England, the
Royal Swedish Railway Company was formed ; and Mr. Burge, an EngUsh
contractor, found security to complete the Une by the end of 1855 ; and to
pay for this sum 4 per cent interest to the shareholders, during the time of
construction ; and these works-are now commenced.

250 APPENDIX V.
Such is the state of the question at the present time. The Swedish
government and public, being thoroughly aUve to the importance of the
raUway system thus introduced, are desirous of proceeding with the re
mainder of the arrangement laid before the king in 1845, but for which the
necessary surveys were not deposited by the end of 1847.
The line now commenced between Hult and toping would be but of
smaU advantage, unless the whole system were developed, to complete the
communication from the mining country to Gottenburg and Stockholm,
and with the northern port of Gefle, and the southern port of Malmo, in
Scania, the great corn district, as also to facilitate the passage of goods
form Western Europe to Russia."
Already the Une is begun between Koping and Hult, forming part of a
great east and west trunk Une that is to connect Gottenburg with Stock
holm. A north and south trunk Une is to run from Gefle, through the
mining district, to Upsala on the east and west line ; and from Falkoping,
on the east and west line, to Christianstadt, Malmo, Vstad, Landscrona,
and Helsingborg ; sea-ports in the south in the province of Scania. Branches
are proposed from the east and west trunk Une to Uora, Linde, and Hede-
mora ; important mineral positions to the north of the Une ; and south, to
Askersund on Lake Wettern, giving, "by means of steamers, a loop-Une to
Jonkoping, at the other end of the lake, a, point of the north and south
trunk Une ; and also to Boras, and Warberg, a port on the west coast.
From near Jonkoping, a branch Une of great value is proposed directly east
to Westerwick, an important sea-port for exportation of minerals and tim
bers ; also, hereafter, a branch in Bleking to the port of Carlscrona, on the
south-eastern coast.
" These trunk and branch Unes, of about 550 miles in length, represent
what is actuaUy necessary for the complete eHmination of the railway struc
ture in Sweden. Many other "important branches would hereafter develop
the rich resources of the country ; and the inhabitants of the various dis
tricts are, in some instances, quite prepared to guarantee the expenses of
their construction ; but the whole of the above lines are necessary to insure
justice to the integral portions ; and it is for this extent of raUway that
Count Rosen desires to bring a proposal before the Swedish Diet in No
vember of the present year ; and it will be the more necessary to proceed
for the whole, on this account alone, that aU the representatives of the na
tion wUl then be equally interested in forwarding the measure. Remem
bering the advanced period of the season, and that aU the surveys must be
prepared in sufficient time, Count Rosen is desirous at once to obtain the

APPENDIX V. 251
assistance of English capitalists in proceeding with the same, and subse
quently to execute the works, on a concession to be arranged and obtained
from the king.
The probable preliminary expenses of surveys, and before parliament,
may be placed at about 70002., to be refunded, on the guarantee of such
dividend as the Swedish Government shaU grant upon the mfleage of the
proposed Unes, and the estimates for the construction of which shall be
agreed upon between bis majesty and the contracting capitalists.
Placing the revenue, from existing mineral traffic, at about 45,0002., and
the total return, from aU sources, at the very low estimate of 300,0002., this
sum would give nearly 7$ per cent on a capital of 4,125,0002., the cost of
550 mfles of Une at 7,5002. per mile; and undoubtedly the traffic would
soon give a higher dividend."

%\)t (EiiJJ.

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