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UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

OFFICIAL GUIDE
DUBLIN t)Alle At A CllAC

'Ir r- T .,d ' r . r-.) Published by
t>onx) 'p.^ilue 6iReAnn

DUBLIN

7^<
RESIHIi^ EL

HERE in the heart of Ireland's
Capital you will get a new outlook
on life. 150 superb rooms with radio,
private bathrooms and suites. Here
you can dine, wine, dance and enter
tain your friends with distinction.

Director and Manager ;
T. O'SULLIVAN.

^ p c

Tel. 46881.

1> ^ S'
9 So J

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760

CONTENTS
Introduction 5
Dublin Brevities 7
ToBULAR History 8
The Story of Dublin 10
Roll of Honorary Freedom (Dublin City) 32
Historic Streets and Houses 33
Ancient Cathedrals and Churches 46
A Cultural Metropolis . 54
Dltblin Libraries 61
Art Galleries 69
The National Museum 76
Learned Societies Si
Notable Public Buildings 86
Parks and Gardens 'j8
Tours of the City 102
How to Get There 112
Trips from Dublin 113
Mileages from Dublin ii|
County Dublin 116
Sport and Recreation . 136
Theatres and Cinemas 143
General Infoemation . 144
Index 154
List of Advertisers . 162
Map of Dublin and East Coast 115
Plan of Dun Laoghaire . 127
Plan of Dublin . Inside back cover

WHAT TO SEE IN DUBLIN (1)

The
Four Courts
The splendid build
ing of the Four Courts
faces the LifFey across
the North Quays. It
was begun in 1786 to
designs by Thomas
Cooley and James
Gandon.

Cooperate Yard,
Guinness s
Brewery

Guinness's great
brewery at St. James's
Gate is another of the
sights of Dublin. Here,
in the cooperage yard,
are some of the casks
in which Guinness is despatched. All are made and
repaired by the brewery's own craftsmen.
YOU'VE SEEN SOMETHING WORTH SEEING
WHEN YOU'VE SEEN GUINNESS'S BREWERY

Visitors are taken round the Brewery between
U a.m. and 3 p.m. ; on Saturdays at 11 a.m. only.
Children under 12 not admitted. The Brewery is
closed on public holidays. G.E.1147 f

INTRODUCTION
The seat of this citie is of all sides pleasant, comfortable
and wholesome. If )"Ou would traverse hills, they are not far
off. If champaign ground, it lieth of all parts. If you be delited
with fresh water, the famous river called the Lifhe runneth
fast by. If you will take the view of the sea, it is at hand." —
Staxihurst (1577).
THAT paragraph — but for its style — might stand
as a contemporary description o£ Dublin. For the
modern metropolis by the LifEey still enjoys the superb
natural amenities which Stanihurst has celebrated. Set
between the mountains and the sea, Dublin is one of the
most beautifully situated capitals in the world.
A salt wind blows into the heart of the city and the
slopes of the Wicklow Hills seem to rise at the end of
every street in the southern suburbs. The Lifley, truly a
"famous river," flows down from a hinterland of woods
and meadows to a bay that rivals Naples in loveliness.
From the Hill of Howth to Bray Head the coastline
stretches in a noble arc, backed by hill and woodland
scenery. Inland, overlooking the lovely valley of the
Liffey, lies the Phoenix Park — the largest city park in
the world.
Dublin's delightful environment makes it an ideal
centre for the holiday-maker. Few cities combine so com
pletely the amenities of a national metropolis with easy
accessibility of fine mountain scenery, bracing seaside
resorts, and a picturesque rural environment. Within an
hour's run by train, bus or car are the mountains and
valleys of Wicklow. Nearer still are the many delightful
resorts described in the "County Dublin" section of this
guide. The facilities which Dublin offers to the sporting visitor
are unsurpassed. The biggest event of the sportsman's
calendar is, of course, the five-day Horse Show held in
August at Ballsbridge. But throughout the year there is
a continual succession of sporting events, which are re
ferred to elsewhere. Frequent race-meetings are held at

6 DUBLIN
Phoenix Park, Baldoyle and Leopardstown, all of which
are situated on the outskirts of the city. Other famous
venues — Punchestown, the Curragh and Fairyhouse —
are also within easy reach. For golfers there are more than
a score of pleasantly situated courses in the vicinity of
the city. The country around Dublin is the hunting-
ground of three leading packs, and excellent sport is also
available in the adjoining counties of Meath, Kildare and
Wicklow. The Wicklow Hills are near at hand and are
a very fine ground for the climber and hill-walker.
Besides being a centre for the sportsman and the tourist,
Dublin is itself a place of absorbing interest. Throughout
the centuries it has been a focal point of national affairs,
and its streets and buildings echo their associations with
patriots and other distinguished men. In 1916 the most
glorious chapter of Ireland's recent history was enacted
in Dublin, when the Irish Republic was proclaimed in the
Easter Week Rising which was the nation's rebirth. In
the subsequent struggle for independence Dublin and its
citizens also played an important part. To-day, with its
spacious streets and beautiful buildings, its friendly
people and its many relics of a long and vivid history,
Dublin is one of the world's most fascinating cities.

DUBLIN BREVITIES
Handel's Messiah was first performed at the Musick
Hall, Fishamble Street, Dublin, on April 13th, 1742, with
Handel himself conducting.
The Rotunda Hospital, Dublin, founded in 1745, is
the second oldest maternity hospital in the world.
The Hibernian Catch Club is the oldest male voice
choral society in existence, having been founded by the
Vicars-Choral of Christ Church, prior to 1680.
Phoenix Park (1,760 acres) is the largest enclosed
urban park in the world.
The brewery of Guinness & Co. at St. James's Gate,
Dublin, is the largest in Europe.
Dublin has the unusual distinction of possessing
two cathedrals (of the same denomination) and two
universities. The Heraldic Museum in Dublin Castle is the only
one in the world.
Soda Water as a manufactured product was the inven
tion of a Dublin man, Augustine Thwaites. The discovery
was made in 1776 while Thwaites was a medical student.
The Dublin Zoo, founded in 1830, is world-famous for
the breeding of lions.
The Bank of Ireland, one of Dublin's finest public
buildings, has a windowless facade.
The Dublin Chamber of Commerce (founded in 1783)
is the oldest in the world.
John Field, originator of the nocturne, romantic music
which inspired Chopin, was bom in Dublin in 1782.
Population (1951 Census) : City, 522,183; Suburbs,
53,805.

TABULAR HISTORY
A.D. 448 — In this year St. Patrick, it is believed, visited
Dublin and converted a number of the inhabitants
to Christianity.
840 — Danish invaders established themselves at Dublin.
1 01 4 — Battle of Clontarf, resulting in a crushing defeat
for Danes and Norsemen.
1 1 52 — Dublin became an archbishopric.
1 1 71-72 — The Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland. King
Henry II in Dublin. He granted a charter to
the city.
II 90 — A great part of the city consumed by fire.
1229 — Richard Muton appointed first Mayor.
1338 — Liffey frozen over from November ist to February
loth, 1339.
1535 — George Brown, Archbishop of Dublin, was the first
Irish prelate to embrace the Reformation.
1667 — Jonathan Swift born November 30th.
1688 — King James II in Dublin. At this time the popula
tion of the city was 64,500.
1723 — Opposition to "Wood's Halfpence," and publica
tion of Swift's Drapier Letters.
1783 — Independent parliament granted to Ireland.
1800 — Act of Union passed.
1803 — Robert Emmet's short-lived insurrection.
1 84 1 — Daniel O'Connell made Lord Mayor of Dublin.
1872 — First tramline laid in Dublin.
1893 — Foundation of the Gaelic League.
1 91 6 — Rising of Easter Monday. Followed by a week of
fighting in which much of O'Connell Street was
demolished. 8

TABULAR HISTORY 9
1 91 9 — The Declaration of Independence adopted by the
First Dail, January 21st.
1922 — Anglo-Irish Treaty approved by Dail fiireann.
1930 — Local Government (Dublin) Act greatly extended
the city area, by incorporating the Urban Districts
of Rathmines and Pembroke.
1932 — The 31st International Eucharistic Congress held
in Dublin, June 22nd — 26th.
1938 — Inauguration of Dr. Douglas Hyde as first Presi
dent of Ireland, June 25th.
1949 — The Declaration of the Republic of Ireland, i8th
April.

LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
O.S. — Ordnance Survey. CLE. — Coras lompair
,» mi /- \ fiireann.
M. — Mile(s).
„ „ „ , , . G.N.R. — Great Northern
E.C. D^ay - Early Closing j^^^j^^^
P. — Page.

THE STORY OF DUBLIN
THE harbour of Dublin was well known to foreign
sailors in the first century of the Christian era, if not
at an earlier date. In his second-century treatise on
Geography, Ptolemy — who gathered his information
from those early travellers — mentions the town of
Eblana. The location which he assigns to it is approxi-
m.ately that of modem Dublin.
The Ford of Hurdles.
The word "Eblana" was a corruption of Dubh'Linn
(Dark Pool), a name given by the native Irish to the
peat-coloured estuary waters of the Liffey. But a name of
greater antiquity was Ath Cliath (The Ford of Hurdles),
applied to the ford or causeway which crossed the river
a short distance above the harbour. There was no town
on this site, but the artificial passage over the river existed
in very early times, and it was here that one of the five
great roads of Ireland, radiating from Tara, crossed the
Liffey. Almost contemporary with Ptolemy were "Conn of the
Hundred Battles" and Mogh of Munster, two rival Irish
kings, who — after prolonged conflict — agreed to divide
the country equally between them. The line of demarca
tion ran from the mouth of the Liffey to the Atlantic
Ocean at Galway. Mogh is said to have been displeased
because his territory did not include the harbour of
Dublin, which must have been an anchorage of consider
able importance.
Irish annals, however, contain remarkably few refer
ences to the site of Dublin — the most notable being a
mention by the Four Masters of the "Battle of Dubhlinne"
(a.D. 291) between the Irish high-king and the
Leinstermen.
St. Patrick's Visit.
In A.D. 448, it is believed, St. Patrick visited Dublin
10

IMC 51UKY OF DUBLIN ii
and converted many of the inhabitants to Christianity.
There is a tradition that he caused a miraculous spring
to gush forth, and there are two wells for which the
distinction is claimed — one at St. Patrick's Cathedral
and the other at the end of Nassau Street (which is called
in Irish St. Patrick's Well Street). Healing and medicinal
qualities were traditionally attributed to these wells —
and it is interesting that the waters of the latter now form
the main ingredient of a world-famous soda-water.
During the three centuries which followed St. Patrick's
coming a community seems to have grown up around the
primitive ford across the Liffey. It was a Christian com
munity, and there is even some evidence of a continuous
line of bishops until the period of the Viking incursions.
Dublin founded by the Ostmen, A.D. 852.
It was in A.D. 795 that Scandinavian pirates were first
sighted off the Irish coast. In that year they plundered
Lambay Island, and this was the beginning of a series
of sporadic raids, mostly directed against religious or
monastic establishments. In A.D. 819 they plundered
Howth, and five years later they raided the territory north
of Dublin. There were two distinct races among these
foreigners, whom the Irish named Fionri'Ghaill, "Fair
Strangers" ((Norwegians), and Dubh'Ghaill, "Dark
Strangers" (Danes). Portion of north County Dublin is
still called Fingal, while the word Dubh'Ghatll survives
recognisably in the common Dublin surname of Doyle.
These early raids were merely predatory and no attempt
at colonisation was made. But in A.D. 840 a party of
Fionri'Ghaill landed at Dublin and set up a fortress, which
was used as a base for further maritime expeditions.
Twelve years later the Dubh'Ghaill took possession of
the town, under the leadership of "Olaf the White," who
is regarded as the founder of Dublin. There were no cities
or walled towns among the ancient Irish, and Dublin's
municipal status dates from the arrival of the Danes or
Ostmen (Men from the East), who were to rule it for
more than three centuries.
Their control of the town by the Liffey was rarely
undisputed, for the native Irish chiefs kept up a fitful but

12 DUBLIN
formidable opposition. Indeed, it was ruled by King
Cearbhall of Ossory from A.D. 872 to 885, and there was
a further interlude of Irish domination some years later.
But Dublin remained essentially a Danish stronghold,
with the names of Aulaf, Sitric, and Godfrey recurring
among its kings.
Dublin an Important Scandinavian Centre.
Dublin, or "Dyflin," as the Ostmen named it, was
centrally situated in the far-flung maritime empire of the
Vikings, which included Iceland, Northumbria and the
Scottish Isles. There is every evidence that it held high
rank among the Scandinavian colonies. Dublin and
Northumbria were sometimes ruled by the same king.
Military and commercial intercourse with Norway was
frequent. Many Norwegian kings visited Dublin, and the
Ostmen of Dublin fought for Norwegian liberty at the
battle, of Hafursfiord in A.D. 872.
It was about this time that Iceland was settled by the
Scandinavians. The island had long been known to Irish
missionaries and when the early settlers landed they
found "Irish books, bells and croziers." Iceland was, to a
great extent, colonised from Dublin; Icelandic literature,
indeed, is the chief source of Dublin's early history.
America discovered by Dublin Ostmen.
The Ostmen of Dublin had intermarried with leading
Irish families, and this mixture of races was a feature of
the new colony. Among the earliest settlers were several
descendants of "Olaf the White" and of King Cearbhall.
During the ninth, tenth and eleventh centuries there was
constant traffic between Dublin and Iceland.
It is almost certain that these voyages led to the dis
covery of America, some 500 years before Columbus
sailed. In A.D. 983 one of the Dublin Ostmen was wrecked
on what seems to have been the coast of Florida. He called
the strange land, prophetically enough, "Greater Ireland."
Some years later a merchant named Gudlief, sailing from
Dublin to Iceland, was driven off his course and wrecked
on another part of the American continent. He found the
natives speaking an utterly strange language, which he
thought sounded somewhat like Irish!

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 13
The Ostmen of Dublin were merchants and warriors.
They carried on an extensive trade with other Scan
dinavian colonies and frequently went abroad to assist
their fellow-countrymen in arms. During these expeditions
the depleted Dublin garrison was sometimes unable to
hold off the attacks of the Irish chiefs. Towards the end
of the ninth century "the foreigners of Ath Cliath" were
driven out, and did not recover the city until twenty-five
years later. But the Irish lacked military organisation, and
made no attempt to consolidate their victories.
The situation was further complicated by marriages
between the Irish and the Danes, which led to innumer
able feuds and confederacies. Intermarriage was common
between the leading families of both races. Aulaf Cuaran,
King of Dublin from A.D. 932 to 968, had various matri
monial alliances with princely Irish families. This out
standing personality among the Ostmen was, indeed,
related by marriage to both Malachy II, King of Ireland,
and his more famous successor, Brian Boru.
The Irish take Dublin, A.D. 980.
In these two men the Irish had at last produced worthy
leaders, and the latter half of the tenth century witnessed
a gradual decline of Danish military power. (It had
already received a severe blow when the Ostmen of
Dublin — under Aulaf — took part in the battle of
Brananburgh in Northumbria in A.D. 937.) At Glenmama
in County Wicklow Brian Boru defeated a coalition of
the Leinstermen and the Dublin Danes and plundered the
city. In A.D. 980 Malachy took Dublin after a siege of
"three days and three nights." On this occasion the Irish
high-king issued the first recorded proclamation of Irish
independence, by a decree : "That as many of the Irish
nation as lived in servitude and bondage with the Danes
should presently pass over without ransom and live freely
in their own countries according to their wonted manner."
The Battle of Clontarf, A.D. 1014.
Thirty-four years later Dublin was the scene of a great
battle which finally destroyed the power of the Danes in

14 DUBLIN
Ireland. The encounter — which took place on Good
Friday, A.D. 1014 — was waged around Clontarf, on the
sloping ground north of the Liffey. The Irish forces, under
Brian Boru, advanced from the district of Drumcondra.
Reinforced by their fellow-countrymen from abroad, the
Danes of Dublin occupied a front extending from the
city to the mouth of the River Tolka at Fairview.
The battle lasted from dawn to sunset and resulted in
a complete rout of the Danes. The foreigners took to their
ships, and many of the Dublin Danes were slaughtered
while attempting to return to the city. Brian's two sons
perished in the conflict and the old king, while praying in
his tent, was killed by a fleeing Dane.
This great defeat left the Danes powerless as a military
force; but the Ostmen of Dublin had never been solely
warriors, and they remained in the city as merchants,
artisans and traders. Christianity spread rapidly among
them; Clontarf was the last struggle of heathenism in
western Europe. Intermarriage betweeen the Ostmen and
the Irish became increasingly frequent, and it is doubtful
whether the kings of Dublin during the eleventh century
should be regarded as Irish or Scandinavian.
Eleventh-Centur/ Kings of Dublin.
At the time of the Battle of Clontarf Dublin was ruled
by Sitric, son of Aulaf Cuaran. Sitric was succeeded by his
son Aulaf. Aulaf was followed by his son, also named
Sitric. Then came a definitely Irish interlude. Sitric \yas
succeeded by Eachmarcach, and the next king was
Diarmid, who was slain in battle A.D. 1072. On his death
Godfrey, King of Man, became ruler of Dublin. His reign
lasted only three years, whereupon "Mortogh, son of
Turlough O'Brian, became King of Athcliath."
The long peace which followed the struggle at Clontarf
allowed a period of civic and religious development. The
den of pirates by the Liffey began to assume the aspect of
an orderly, Christian community. In A.D. 1038 King Sitric
assisted Donatus (first Ostman Bishop of Dublin) in
founding the "Church of the Blessed Trinity," which be
came Christ Church Cathedral. There is a dubious
tradition that the present crypt is a remnant of the original

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 15
edifice. Many of Dublin's old parish churches were also
founded during the eleventh century. The Church of St.
Michan, with its tower and strange vaults, bears the name
of a Danish saint and is assigned to the year A.D. 1096;
An earlier foundation was the tenth-century monastery
which later became the great Cistercian Abbey of St.,
Mary, and played an important part in the life of the city
for four hundred years.
During this long period of peace Dublin developed
rapidly and became unquestionably the leading city in
Ireland. The Christianised Ostmen were being gradually
assimilated by the native Irish. At the time of the Anglo-
Norman invasion, Dublin's king styled himself Hasculf
MacThorkil (not Thorkilson), and the archbishop was
Laurence O'Toole, one of the leading personalities in
Dublin's history, and now its patron saint. But this process
of assimilation was violently cut short by the new in
vasion, which was to bring in its wake seven and a half
centuries of strife.
The Anglo-Norman Invasion, A.D. 1169.
The immediate origin of the Anglo-Norman invasion
of Ireland is a matter of well-known history. Dermot
MacMurrough, King of Leinster, abducted the wife of
Tiernan O'Rourke, ruler of Breffni (a district in Cavan
and Leitrim). O'Rourke recovered his wife by force and
— with the help of the Dublin Danes — banished Dermot
from his kingdom. Intent on revenge, the Leinsterman
fled to the English Court and invited Henry II to send
an army to Ireland. The king declined, but declared that
any of his vassals were at liberty to undertake the venture.
Eventually the invitation was accepted by the barons of
South Wales.
Dublin Falls to the Invaders, A.D. 1170.
In May, 1169, a body of Anglo-Normans established
themselves in the Danish stronghold of Wexford. During
the following summer Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke
(known as Strongbow), landed with a force of 3,000 men
and marched on Dublin, traversing the mountainous
country of Wicklow under the expert guidance of the

i6 DUBLIN
renegade Dermot MacMurrough. The citizens were taken
by surprise and Archbishop Laurence O'Toole was sent
out to ask for a truce. While negotiations were in progress,
however, two Norman knights, Raymond Fitzgerald and
Miles de Cogan, began a fierce attack which carried the
city by storm.
After the capture of Dublin, Giraldus Cambrensis tells
us, "the better part of the Scandinavian inhabitants under
their king, Hasculf, embarked in ships and boats with
their most valuable effects, and sailed to the northern
islands." The remainder were expelled from the city
proper and formed a settlement or Ostman-town on the
northern side of the Liffey, in the district which is still
called Oxmantown.
A Year of Sieges.
During the year which followed the entry of the Nor
mans Dublin was thrice besieged. Hasculf MacThorkil,
returning with a great fleet and army, began a determined
assault. The Irish — who had mustered under a local chief
named Gilmeholmoc — were, strangely enough, induced
to remain neutral spectators. They stood on the old
Danish Thingmote (Assembly-place), a high mound near
the site of the present St. Andrew's Church in St.
Andrew's Street, and watched the battle which took place
on the plain stretching northwards and eastwards to the
river. After a fierce struggle the Danes were repulsed,
mainly through the energy of the impetuous Miles de
Cogan. This was the last attempt of the Danes to regain the city
they had held for more than three hundred years. Unlike
the Normans, they never built durably, and Dublin retains
few visible memorials of the Scandinavian occupation.
Only place-names like Howth ("Hovud," a headland)
and Leixlip ("Laxhlaup," Salmon Leap), or surnames like
Broderick and MacAuliffe now recall the founders and
early rulers of Ireland's capital.
Shortly after Hasculf's abortive attack, the city was
again besieged. A great confederation had been organised
against the invaders by Archbishop Laurence O'Toole, and
the Irish high-king, Roderick O'Connor, appeared outside

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 17
the walls with an immense army of 30,000 men. The
garrison was soon in desperate straits, but Roderick's
dilatory tactics proved ineffectual.
The third attempt on the city was made by Tieman
O'Rourke, the husband whom Dermot MacMurrough had
wronged. His troops, however, were easily beaten off by
the indefatigable Miles de Cogan.
King Henry II in Dublin, A.D. 1171-72.
Somewhat perturbed at the military enterprise of his
vassals. King Henry II decided on a personal visit to
Ireland. He landed at Waterford in October, 1171, with
a huge army, and marched to Dublin, where he received
many Irish chiefs and entertained them with Christmas
festivities in "a royal palace constructed of peeled osiers,
according to the custom of the country." This temporary
building was erected at the Thingmote, outside the eastern
gate of the city — about the top of the present Suffolk
Street. Before leaving Ireland Henry granted Dublin as a
colony to the citizens of Bristol and appointed Hugh
de Lacy as its first governor. De Lacy may be regarded as
the first of a long line of English viceroys in Ireland. He
was succeeded by Strongbow, whose death in 11 76 was
followed by a scramble for power among his followers.
Most notable of them was Raymond Fitzgerald (Raymond
le Gros), founder of the great Geraldine line which pro
duced some the most remarkable personalities in Irish
history. The kings of England were quick to realise that the
existence of powerful feudal families would make it
doubly difficult to extend the royal authority in Ireland.
It was possible that an ambitious viceroy rnight make
himself independent ruler of the country and transmit his
authority to his descendants. But bishops could not found
families — and the ingenious ruse of appointing episcopal
viceroys was adopted.
This concentration of the authority of Church and State
in one personage gave a decided fillip to the religious life
of the city. In 1172 Strongbow and his colleagues had
beo-un the building of a great new cathedral (Christ

1 8 DUBLIN
Church) on the site of Sitric's church. Twenty years later
Comyn, first English archbishop of Dublin, established
outside the walls a cathedral far exceeding it in size and
splendour. The new edifice, St. Patrick's Cathedral, was
erected on the site of an ancient church associated with
Ireland's national apostle. Though the population of
Dublin at this time did not exceed ten thousand, there
were, in the city and its environs, two cathedrals, several
abbeys and about a score of churches.
Mediaeval Dublin.
In II 92 the city was granted a charter, which was
ratified in 1200 and again 121 5. The building of the Castle
was completed in 1220. Dublin was now the centre from
which English monarchs hoped to assert their authority
over the whole of Ireland. For a long period, however,
that authority was strictly confined to the fortified city.
menaced by the ever-imminent pressure of the neighbour'
ing Irish inhabitants. The soft outlines of the Wicklow
Hills, which draw our eyes southward with delight, were
a constant symbol of danger to the burghers of mediaeval
Dublin. Down from those heights on Easter Monday, in
the year 1209, had come the O'Bymes and the O'Tooles
to inflict great slaughter on the citizens, who were
assembled at CuUenswood, near Ranelagh. The Dubliners
suffered so many casualties that they found it necessary
to obtain further reinforcements from Bristol. But the
memory of "Black Monday" remained vivid among them,
and the names of those two Wicklow clans became sounds
to frighten their children.
The Dublin of that time was a walled town, about half
a mile long and a quarter of a mile broad. Its western gate
stood near the site of Guinness's Brewery, while the
eastem exit was at the Lower Castle Yard. The town
occupied a small river-frontage, but its cage-work houses
clustered chiefly on the high ground near the Castle and
Christ Church; in this commanding position the Danes
also had built their fortress and laid the foundations of
the city. (Roughly speaking, the oldest portion of Dublin
is traversed by the winding street which runs westward
from the City Hall.)

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 19
During the next four centuries the aspect of the city
remained practically unchanged. Hemmed around by
enemies, the English settlers were kept close within the
walls; Speed's Map of Dublin (i6io) shows only one
bridge over the river, and depicts the city lying between
the Castle and "Ormond's Gate." "Damas Gate" (now the
end of Dame Street) marked the eastern boundary.
Throughout this period Dublin was the chief foothold
of the English invaders, but it was often a very precarious
foothold. To secure immunity from attack the citizens
frequently paid tribute, in the form of "black rent," to
Irish chieftains. Art MacMurrough, a descendant of the
infamous Dermot, was bought off by a "black rent" of
eighty marks a year. A Munster chief named O'Brien
received one hundred marks annually. Once, when his
money was overdue, he marched to Dublin to collect it.
There were only nine marks in the treasury, and the re
quired amount was raised by subscription among the
citizens. Indeed, the existence of the little city on the Liffey was
threatened by many visitations, human and elemental.
In 1 190 a great part of Dublin was destroyed by fire, and
fourteen years later a plague visited the city. There was
another serious fire in 1283; and in 1348 an epidemic
carried off more than half the inhabitants. Severe frosts
sometimes bound the Liffey (then a wide, shallow river)
in a sheet of ice; during the winter of 1338-39 it remained
frozen over for more than three months. There were
periodic famines, and on one occasion the starving citizens
were saved by the stranding of a school of whales at
Ringsend — the only beneficient invasion of Dublin on
record. Dublin and the English " Pale. '
Throughout the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries
English power in Ireland was at a low ebb. The royal
authority was respected only within the "Pale," a fortified
area of which Dublin was the centre. The extent of the
area depended on the military prowess of the English
garrison. Outside this variable zone the country was held
by the native chiefs, or by those great Anglo-Norman

20 DUBLIN
families which became "more Irish than the Irish them-
selves A most resolute opponent of the English was Art
MacMurrough, who had allied himself to the Geraldine
family by marrying a daughter of Maurice, Earl of Kil
dare. The activities of this warlike chief, and the con
tinual feuds between the Geraldines of Kildare and the
Butlers of Kilkenny, contributed greatly to the chronic
weakness of English rule at this period. King Edward III,
having failed to improve matters by sending over a num
ber of strong viceroys, finally appointed his son, Lionel
of Clarence, to represent him at Dublin. But this expedient
did not meet the situation.
Richard II in Dublin, 1394.
Eventually, in 1394, Richard II decided on an expedi
tion to Ireland. Landing at Waterford with an army of
34,000 men, he marched northwards towards Dublin. It
was a difficult journey, for MacMurrough harassed the
king's forces by ceaseless guerrilla warfare. Richard cele
brated Christmas in Dublin with great splendour, and
opened negotiations with the Irish chieftains. These
proved successful and were followed by a remarkable
ceremony in Christ Church Cathedral, where the
chief native princes of Ireland — O'Neill of Ulster,
MacMurrough of Leinster, O'Brien of Munster and
O'Connor of Connacht — were knighted by the English
monarch. In the light of subsequent happenings, this
spectacle seems picturesque rather than politically
significant. Dublin a Yorkist Stronghold.
During the following century Dublin made little pro
gress. The viceroys and the ecclesiastical authorities were
engaged in constant squabbles. Later the city was drawn
into the backwash of the Wars of the Roses. Richard,
Duke of York, had — as viceroy — won over Ireland to
his cause; it was from Dublin that he sailed to undertake
the campaign which ended with his defeat and death at
Wakefield. His successors in the vice-regal office were the
Earls of Kildare, all staunch Yorkists. Their bitter rivals,

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 21
the Butlers (Dukes of Ormond) — perhaps from force of
habit — espoused the opposite side. These two great
families fought a replica of the Wars of the Roses all over
Munster and Leinster. At the accession of Henry VII, the
Yorkist faction held sway in Ireland. In 1487 Lambert
Simnel was crowned king in Christ Church Cathedral,
with the support of viceroy, hierarchy and citizens. A few
years later the Earl of Kildare was removed from office,
on a charge of furthering Perkin Warbeck's designs on the
throne. But political variations were rapid and the Earl was
soon back in Dublin as viceroy, an office which remained
in the hands of the Geraldines until the quixotic revolt
of Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, better known as "Silken
Thomas." The dramatic resignation of that rash young
lord makes one of the most vivid incidents in Dublin's
history. Believing that his father had been hanged in
England, the young viceroy rode into the city at the head
of a company of cavalary. Bursting into the Council
Chamber at St. Mary's Abbey, he flung his sword of
state upon the table, by this gesture divesting himself of
his office and of his allegiance to Henry VIII. Assisted by
the O'Tooles of Wicklow, he immediately began a siege
of Dublin which resulted in his capture and death. The
execution of Silken Thomas and his five uncles at Tyburn
in 1537 brought the great Geraldine line to the verge of
extinction. Reformation Reaches Dublin, 1535.
The fall of the Geraldines coincides with the advent of
the Reformation to Dublin; Archbishop Brown (appointed
in 1535) was the first Protestant to occupy the See. Most
of the Anglo-Irish and all the native Irish clung to the old
faith; the king's officials and some of the nobles —
notably the Butlers — supported the Reformation. In
1 55 1 the viceroy promulgated the "Book of Common
Prayer" in Christ Church Cathedral.
Though Ireland staunchly resisted the Reformation, the
city of Dublin became gradually Protestant during the
long reign of Queen Elizabeth. A succession of able vice
roys carried the royal authority — after a fierce struggle

22 DUBLIN
 into parts of the country never before subdued. Each
new accession of territory enhanced the importance of
the capital; Dublin was no longer a fortified post sur
rounded by enemy country, but a metropolis in the
making. . i ¦
The city developed a flourishing trade with Liverpool
and the ports of North Wales. A Custom House was built,
and the facilities for shipping were improved. (Vessels
discharged their cargoes at Merchants' Quay and Wood
Quay. The depth of the Liffey at this point — according
to a report made in 1590 — varied from 3 feet to 6j feet.)
The municipality undertook various laudable schemes,
guilds were organised, and the mayor dispensed lavish
hospitality. Defeat of Irish Clans.
Dublin's progress was due to the fact that the city was
relatively untouched by the ceaseless conflicts between
Elizabeth's forces and the Irish. In 1586, however, the
O'Bymes paid the capital an unwelcome visit and "singed
the viceroy's beard" by plundering the Exchequer which
stood within one hundred yards of the Castle. But the
more serious warfare was farther afield. Time and again
towards the close of the sixteenth century the Irish forces
under O'Neill and O'Donnell won signal victories. At the
period when the Queen's favourite, Essex, was viceroy
the campaign seemed likely to end in the utter defeat of
the English and their expulsion from the country. But
the victory of Lord Mouhtjoy over the two Ulster leaders
at Kinsale (1602) crushed the Irish resistance and
extended English rule to the greater part of the country.
Foundation of Trinity College.
In 1591, on the site of the recently-dissolved convent of
All Hallows in Hoggen Green (now College Green), was
founded "the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity,
near Dublin." It was a strictly Protestant foundation, ex
pressly designed to further the Reformation in Ireland.
Trinity College has played an illustrious role in the life
of Dublin for three and a half centuries.

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 23
Repressive acts were enforced against the Catholics; in
a Parliament which met at Dublin in 161 3 they were skil
fully cheated out of adequate representation. Negligible
concessions were granted to the oppressed majority by
James I and Charles I. The harsh measures which followed
the abortive rising of 1641 at last drove the Catholics into
open revolt. Under the title of the "Confederation of Kil
kenny" they formed what was virtually an independent
government, operating over the greater part of Ireland.
When the Duke of Ormond became viceroy in 1644 he
found his authority limited to a small area around Dublin.
The Catholic generals, Owen Roe O'Neill and Preston
blockaded the city and ravaged the surrounding country
side. At one time the citizens could see two hundred fires
from their church steeples. But Ormond held on stub
bornly and once again Dublin defied its attackers.
In the meantime, the Civil War in England entered its
decisive phase. Dublin had supported the king, and on
the victory of the Parliamentary party Ormond surren
dered his sword of state to commissioners from England.
He then went into exile, leaving the city in the hands of
the Parliamentarian forces.
The execution of the king in 1649 caused a widespread
revulsion, even among those who had not actively sup
ported the Royalist cause. Ormond came back to Ireland
and took command of a Royalist army which included
many Catholics. History sometimes parodies itself, and
Ormond — ¦ with the help of his old enemies — now laid
siege to the city he had defended two years before. But
Dublin's new Roundhead garrison, commanded by
Michael Jones, held the city safely.
Oliver Cromv/ell in Dublin, 1649.
Less than a fortnight later (on August 14th, 1649)
Oliver Cromwell landed in Dublin with a large army.
The city, already held by his supporters, was leniently
treated; Isut Drogheda and Wexford were to experience
the savagery with which Cromwell's name is still
associated in Ireland.
Royalist feeling remained strong in the city, and
Charles II was proclaimed king in Dublin before the

24 DUBLIN
Restoration took place. When Charles eventually regained
the throne Dublin was rewarded for its fidelity. A gold
chain was given to the mayor, who was accorded the style
of : "Right Honourable the Lord Mayor." The city was
given the same status as London and Edinburgh.
Rapid Growth of the City.
The loyal Ormond was reinstated as viceroy, and took
a leading part in various schemes for the improvement of
the city. In Dublin the Restoration was followed by a
remarkable period of development. New streets were laid
out between Hoggen Green and the river. For the first
time extensive building was undertaken on the northern
bank. Until 1660 only two bridges had spanned the
Liffey; four were now erected in rapid succession to main
tain communication with the growing suburb north of the
river. The most important was Essex (now Grattan)
Bridge; it was built with stones obtained from the dere
lict monastery of St. Mary's Abbey nearby. About the
same time St. Stephen's Green — until then a commons
— was made available for building. This open space was
connected with Hoggen Green by a lane, so rough in
1 67 1 "that people could not walk in it." It is now Grafton
Street, Dublin's most fashionable shopping centre.
At this period, under Ormond's auspices, arose the
earliest public buildings of note. In 1680 the erection of
the Royal Hospital at Kilmainham was begun from
designs by Sir William Robinson, Surveyor-General of
Ireland. It is sometimes wrongly attributed to Wren.
Beyond the river was erected an edifice on the model of
Christ's Hospital in London, which is now the Bluecoat
School in Blackball Place. The Phoenix Park was laid out
by Ormond as a hawking ground for the viceroys, but
soon became a great public pleasure-ground. A line of
ornamental quays was built along the northern bank of
the river, and the name "Ormond Quay" preserves the
memory of one of Dublin's greatest benefactors.
During the reign of Charles II, no redress was granted
to the Catholics, who now made up a large percentage
of Dublin's 60,000 citizens. There was a violent change
on the accession of James II in 1685. The Catholic Earl

inn :siORY OF DUBLIN 25
of Tyrconnell became viceroy (or Lord Lieutenant, as the
office was now called) and Protestants were treated with
considerable severity.
James II in Dublin, 1688.
Within a few years James had ceded two of his king
doms to the Prince of Orange without a struggle. He
decided to make a belated stand for the third. Dublin,
with its flair for backing the losing side, espoused the
Stuart cause with enthusiasm. King James entered the city
in triumph. The Protestant establishment was abolished,
and Mass was celebrated in Christ Church after a lapse of
one hundred and fifty years. Stuart troops were billeted
in Trinity College, which was placed under a Catholic
Provost named Moore.
The Jacobite forces sustained a series of defeats and the
final debacle came at the Battle of the Boyne in 1690.
Once again King James passed through Dublin, this time
on a retreat so expeditious as to become a historical joke.
The Prince of Orange — now William III — entered the city
with his troops. A relic of his visit is the chain still used
by the Lord Mayor of Dublin. It was presented by the
victorious William to the man who then held the office —
Bartholomew Vanhomrigh, father of Swift's "Vanessa."
The recent wars had exhausted Ireland's military
resources; but Dublin soon became the centre of the
movement for parliamentary independence which began
towards the end of William Ill's reign. In 1703 a petition
had been sent to London for a complete union of the two
countries. This was refused, and the merchants of Dublin
— mostly loyal Protestants — soon found their commerce
crippled by a series of tariffs arbitrarily imposed from
London. William Molyneux, member for Trinity College
,; in the Irish Parliament, challenged the right of the English
j Commons to make laws for Ireland, which had no repre-
i, sentation in that assembly. Thus began the constitutional
struggle for Irish autonomy which was to continue
j throughout the century.
J Dublin's Augustan Age.
' Dublin now entered upon the most colourful period

26 DUBLIN
of its long history. The city became an abode of wealth
and fashion, perhaps the most brilliant metropolis of that
age. Many new streets and squares were added, as the
Irish nobility built themselves palatial town residences.
The Parliament House in College Green, erected in 1729,
was the first of a great series of public buildings. It
became the focus of political and social interest, as the
constitutional struggle against the English Ministry
intensified. In architecture, as in other arts, the brilliant society of
the metropolis maintained a high standard of taste. Dublin
retains a great amount of splendid work by Gandon,
Cassels, Johnston, Sir William Chambers and others.
Ceilings by Angelica Kauffmann and mantelpieces by
Bossi were features of Dublin's Georgian houses.
Indeed, artists of every type found ready encourage
ment in eighteenth-century Dublin. On the boards of the
Crow Street and Smock Alley theatres Garrick and Mrs.
Siddons vied with the native-bom Macklin, Spranger
Barry and Peg Woffington, before the most critical
audience in Europe. Handel, disappointed in London,
found appreciation in the Irish capital. While in Dublin
he presented the Messiah, "to offer this generous and
polished nation something new." Its first performance
(13th April, 1742) at the Musick Hall in Fishamble
Street attracted a large and distinguished audience.
Jonathan Swift.
The society of the capital was gay, brilliant, eccentric,
crowded with famous names. But the greatest Dublin
figure of that age was Jonathan Swift; one senses his
sombre and powerful personality ever imminent behind,
the life of the city. In the sullen Dean of St. Patrick's
Cathedral Ireland's political discontent had found a
powerful voice, and the Drapier Letters had made the
most virulent satirist in history a popular idol.
Swift gave additional impetus to the struggle for
autonomy which was being waged in the Irish Parliament,
where the Opposition included such able orators and
leaders as Lucas, Malone, and later Henry Grattan.
Grattan entered Parliament in 1775. Within four years he

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 27
had compelled the English Ministry to introduce measures
permitting free trade between the two countries. His
demands had been backed by Lord Charlemont's
Volunteers, who paraded outside the Parliament House
in College Green. In 1 783, England — now embroiled in
the American War — was forced to concede autonomy to
the Irish Parliament.
Dublin under Grattan's Paliament.
The new independent legislature had a short career,
but during its lifetime Dublin made splendid progress.
The judicature was housed in the Four Courts, erected in
1785. Five years later the magnificent Custom House was
completed. A penny post was established for the city and
its environs. Docks were built, and a daily service of sail
ing packets to and from Holyhead was inaugurated. Two
great inland waterways — the Grand Canal and the Royal
Canal — were constructed to link Dublin with the
Shannon. But beneath this civic splendour there was growing
political unrest. Representation was still denied to the
great majority of the people — the Catholics — and the
executive government was controlled by the English
Ministry. The more ardent spirits in Charlemont's Volun
teers joined the "United Irishmen," founded by Wolfe
Tone in 1791. Matters came to a head in the abortive
insurrection of 1798. Alarmed by the events of that year,
Pitt, the English Prime Minister, resolved to bring about
a complete legislative union of Ireland and England.
The Irish Parliament was strongly opposed to his plan,
but wholesale bribery — largely engineered by Lord
Castlereagh — secured a majority for the Act of Legisla
tive Union. In the first year of the new century "Grattan's
Parliament" voted itself out of existence. Dublin was so
bitterly opposed to the Union that it was necessary ro
restrain the populace by a display of armed force.
Catholic Emancipation, 1829.
The passage of the Act of Union robbed Dublin of its
status as an independent metropolis. Following the
abolition of the native legislature, political interest centred

28 DUBLIN
mainly in Daniel O'Connell's struggle for Catholic Eman
cipation. O'Connell's triumph came in 1829, when the
Emancipation Act removed the disabilities which had for
centuries excluded Catholics from the privileges of citizen
ship. Some years later Catholics received the municipal
franchise and O'Connell was elected Lord Mayor of
Dublin. The city's main thoroughfare now bears his name
and is adorned by his statue.
The capital of Ireland was becoming, for the first time
in its history, an Irish city. Dublin was actively involved
in every subsequent movement for Irish independence.
But political troubles did not retard civic progress, and the
city assumed, during the nineteenth century, the general
aspect which it still presents.
Modern Dublin.
In 1868 a conduit of twenty-two miles was constructed
to carry water to the city from, the Wicklow Mountains.
This, with supplementary schemes, has given Dublin a
water-supply remarkable for its purity. Another important
step in the city's progress was the laying (in 1872) of the
first tramline. It ran from Nelson Pillar to Rathmines, and
inaugurated a system of public transport which was to
become a paramount feature of the modem city. The
introduction of cheap transport allowed the middle-classes
to move outwards, and new residential suburbs sprang up
on the fringe of the old city.
The centre of political interest had now shifted lo
Westminster, where the adroit tactics of the Irish Party
under Charles Stewart Parnell were forcing repeated
concessions from Gladstone's Ministry. Dublin took the
popular side in the Land War, and was closely identified
with Parnell's struggle for self-government, or "Home
Rule." Dublin in the Twentieth Century.
During the period of political apathy which followed
Parnell's death Dublin became the centre of a great
cultural movement — the Irish Literary Renaissance. The
eariy writings of Yeats and the foundation of the Abbey
Theatre ushered in the twentieth century, perhaps the

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 29
most important epoch, politically and culturally, in
Dublin's eventful history. The period prior to the first
World War witnessed stormy scenes at the Abbey over
Synge's play "The Playboy of the Western Worid," the
birth of the National University (in 1908), the great
Dockers' Strike of 1913, the foundation of the Irish
Volunteers in the same year, and the "Howth Gun-
Running" in 1914.
Agitation for self-government had continued, but it
was soon evident that mere "Home Rule" would not
satisfy the aspirations of the new Sinn Fein Party in
Ireland. Feeling gradually intensified, and there was an
ugly incident in July, 1914, following the landing of arms
at Howth by the Irish Volunteers; the military fired on
a crowd in Bachelor's Walk and several civilian lives were
lost. A few days later war broke out in Europe. John
Redmond, as leader of the Irish Party at Westminster,
promised Ireland's support to the Allies; but his influence
was already waning, while that of the Sinn Fein move
ment, founded by Arthur Griffith, was growing.
The Insurrection of 1916.
The more advanced leaders of the Sinn Fein organi
sation saw England's difficulty as Ireland's opportunity.
They decided on an appeal to arms. On Easter Monday
(24th April, 19 1 6) various strategic positions in the city
were occupied, insurgent Headquarters being the General
Post Office in O'Connell Street. After a week's fighting
the rising was quelled, but the action of the insurgents had
caught the imagination of Ireland. The subsequent
execution of Pearse, MacDonagh and the other leaders
roused national feeling to fever-pitch. A nation-wide en
dorsement of the separatist policy came two years later;
the General Election of 191 8 resulted in an overwhelming
victory for Sinn Fein and the complete eclipse of the old
parliamentary party.
Sinn Fein members absented themselves from West
minster and formed Dail fiireann (The Parliament of
Ireland). The first meeting of this assembly was held in
the Round Room of the Mansion House in Dawson Street,
on 2ist January, 1919; and its first official act was the

30 DUBLIN
adoption of a Declaration of Independence. Dail fiireann
was declared illegal, but its authority was nevertheless
accepted by the vast majority of the people. Fighting
soon broke out between the Crown forces and the Irish
Republican Army, the efficient military organisation of
the independence movement.
The Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921.
Dublin became once more a theatre of battle; it was
the centre from which Dail fiireann carried out the
functions of government and directed a persistent guerrilla
campaign against the Army of Occupation. On 25th May,
1 92 1, the Custom House was taken and burned to a shell
by an Irish force — an act which crippled the whole
British civil administration in Ireland. Eventually, in July,
1 92 1, a truce was arranged and some months later the
British Government concluded a Treaty with the Republi
can leaders. Ireland was to become a self-governing
dominion under the title of the Irish Free State, but
portion of Ulster was given the option of voting itself out
of the new State.
The provisions of the Treaty were debated by Dail
fiireann, assembled in the Council Chamber of University
College in Earlsfort Terrace. It soon became apparent that
a sharp cleavage of opinion existed. During the last weeks
of 1921 and January of 1922 the passionate discussion
went on. It must have been one of the few occasions in
parliamentary history when the outcome of a momentous
issue was in doubt until a division was called. The Treaty
was approvecl by a narrow majority ,and soon afterwards
the strong minority party determined on armed resistance
to the new State.
Once again fighting broke out in Dublin. The Four
Courts, occupied by an anti-Treaty force under Rory
O'Connor, was shelled and completely gutted, and the
eastern side of O'Connell Street was also burned out. But
when peace was restored these and the Custom House
were splendidly rebuilt. Dublin, ever irrepressible, rose
phoenix-like from its ashes. Gandon's two masterpieces,
magnificently restored, adorn the quays by the Liffey —
perhaps the finest buildings of their age and style in

THE STORY OF DUBLIN 31
Europe. The rebuilt O'Connell Street is to-day a more
splendid thoroughfare than ever before.
With the birth of the Irish Free State, Dublin became
once more an independent capital, the metropolis of a
country old in history, fresh in promise and achievement.
Progress under native government has been remarkable.
Better cleansing of thoroughfares, improved methods of
public lighting, great new housing schemes, are but a few
results of enlightened municipal administration.
The Eucharistic Congress of 1932.
The Eucharistic Congress held in Dublin in June, 1932
— the 1,500th anniversary of the coming of St. Patrick
— was attended by visitors from all over the world. It
provided the greatest and most inspiring gatherings in the
city's long history. More than a million people attended
the Solemn High Mass celebrated in the Phoenix Park
on the closing Sunday.
The inauguration of Dr. Douglas Hyde as first President
of Ireland, in 1938, was another outstanding historic
event. In 1930 the city boundary was greatly extended by the
inclusion of outlying boroughs. By 1941 the population
of Dublin had grown to 491,000. The 1946 Census
showed a population of over half a million in Dublin
County Borough (as the administrative area is now
called), and a further increase — to 575,988 — • was
recorded in the 1951 Census.
And so, after its long and turbulent history, Dublin has
found peace. Dubh-Linn, Eblana, Dyflin, Ath-Cliath —
it is a palimpsest on which succeeding invaders have
written a vivid story. The swarm of huts by the Liffey has
weathered countless vicissitudes, to become the metropolis
of an historic nation, a city of quality and distinction
among the capitals of the world.

ROLL OF THE HONORARY FREEDOM
OF THE CITY OF DUBLIN

Isaac Butt, Q.C.
Right Hon. William Ewart Gladstone, P.C, M.P.
Ulysses S. Grant, ex-President U.S.A.
Edward E. Potter, Captain of the "Constellation"
Charles Stewart Parnell, M.P. .
John Dillon, M.P. ....-•
Kevin Izod O'Doherty
Hon. Patrick A. Collins, Senator, U.S.A.
William O'Brien, M.P, . . . .
Timothy Daniel Sullivan, M.P.
Thomas Sexton, M.P.
The Rt. Hon. the Marquis of Ripon, P.C.
The Kt. Hon. John Morley, P.C, M.P.
His Eminence Cardinal Moran
Lady Sandhurst ....
The Rt. Hon. James Stansfeld. P.C, M.P.
The Rev. George Salmon, D.D., Provost T.C.D. .
The Rt. Hon. Stuart Knill, Lord Mayor of London
Patrick A. McHugh, M.P.
John E. Redmond, B.L., M.P..
An CHAoibin Aot^ini) (Douglas Hyde, LL.D.)
Richard Croker .
Spencer Harty, CE.
Hugh P. Lane
E. O'Meagher Condon
Sir Charles A. Cameron, CB.
Dr. Kuno Meyer
An CAn6nAc peA-oAn LIa tAo^AiRe
Most Rev. Dr. Mannix, Archbishop of Melbourne
John Count McCormack
Ehrenfried Giinther Baron Von Hiinefeld
Captain Hermann Koehl
Major James Fitzmaurice .
The Hon. Frank B. Kellogg, LL.D., U.S.A.
His Eminence Lorenzo Cardinal Lauri, Papal Legate to
the 31st International Eucharistic Congress
Sir John Lavery, R.A., R.H.A. ....
Sir John Purser Griffith, M.A.I., M.Inst.C.E.
George Bernard Shaw ......
Most Rev. Dr. Cushing, Archbishop of Boston
The Hon. Paul A. Dever, Governor of Massachusetts
His Excellency Sedn T. O Ceallaigh, President of Ireland
His Eminence John Cardinal D'Alton, Archbishop of
Armagh and Primate of All Ireland
His Excellency Gerald P. O'Hara, D.D., Papal Nuncio
to Ireland

4th Sept.,

1876

1st Nov.,

1877

30th Dec,

1878

26th April,

1880

3rd Jan.,

1882

3rd Jan.,

1882

loth Aug.,

1885

22nd July,

1887

22nd July,

1887

loth Dec,

1887

28th Dec,

1887

i6th Jan.,

1888

16th Jan.,

1888

ist Oct.,

1888

igth Sept..

1889

19th Sept.,

1889

14th Mar.,

1892

23rd Dec,

1892

30th Oct.,

1901

l8th Dec,

1901

29th June,

1906

ist July,

1907

2nd Sept.,

1907

loth Feb.,

1908

28th Sept.,

1909

30th Sept.,

1910

iSth July,

1911

i8th July,

1911

5th Aug.,

1920

3rd Sept.,

1923

30th June,

1928

30th June,

1928

30th June,

1928

25th Aug.,

1928

27th June,

1932

17th Sept.,

1935

8th June,

1936

26th July,

1946

i6th Sept.,

1949

i6th Sept.,

1949

2nd June,

1953

2nd June,

1953

27th July,

1953

32

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES
Tn examples of the public and domestic architecture of
A the eighteenth century Dublin is singularly rich, and
many fine Georgian mansions lend a sober beauty to its
wide streets and famous squares. History clings around
the mellowed walls of these old houses, many of which
have been closely associated with the most vivid
personalities and exciting events in modern history.
Kildare Street.
Leinster House in Kildare Street, now the meeting-
place of the Dail (Chamber of Deputies) and Seanad
(Senate), was built by James Fitzgerald, first Duke of
Leinster, in 1745. When told that he was building in an
unfashionable part of the town, he answered: "They
will follow me." This proved true, for subsequent years
witnessed the growth of Merrion Square, and the centre
of fashion moved south. The first Duke died in 1 773 and
the mansion was occupied by his successors, including
Lord Edward Fitzgerald — until rented by the Royal
Dublin Society in 181 5.
At No. 39 lived Lady Morgan (Sydney Owenson) and
her husband. A prolific if careless writer. Lady Morgan
was on intimate terms with the leaders of contemporary
society. Her soirees were a feature of Dublin's social life
in the early years of the last century. On 14th August,
1835, she writes : "My soiree was very fine, learned,
scientific and tiresome. Fifty philosophers passed through
my rooms last night."
Dawson Street.
In this street is the Mansion House, the official residence
of Dublin's Lord Mayors since 1715 and the scene of
important events in recent Irish history. In the famous
Round Room, at the inaugural session of the First Dail,
in January, I9i9t the Declaration of Independence was
adopted; and here also, in July, 1921, was signed the
B 33

34 DUBLIN
Truce which ended the Anglo-Irish War. No. 19,
Northland House, is the premises of the Royal Insh
Academy, one of the foremost learned societies of Europe.
St. Ann's Church, on the same side of the street, contams
the grave of Mrs. Felicia Hemans, the poetess.
Merrion Square.
No. I was the boyhood home of Oscar Wilde, the
famous dramatist and wit. He was bom (1854) in 21
Westland Row (See p. 40).
No. 5 was the residence of William Stokes, the eminent
physician and Regius Professor of Physic in Dublin
University. He had a very large practice and a worldwide
reputation. "In i793f" writes Sir ]onah Barrington, "I purchased
a fine house in Merrion Square." This is No. 42, and the
famous lawyer-historian lived here for many years.
Daniel O'Connell lived at No. 58, and a writer of the
time gives us an interesting piece of information concern
ing the Liberator's habits. O'Connell rose at five o'clock,
and revellers homeward-bound from parties were familiar
with "the half -open parlour shutters and the light within,"
which told that the great man was already at work.
]oseph Sheridan Le Fanu, author of "Uncle Silas" and
other popular novels .resided at No. 70. After the death of
his wife in 1858, he rarely left the house, leading "a
secluded life, mixing little in society, from which his
handsome and distinguished person was missed."
At No. 48 lived Robert Graves, M.D., who has been
ranked with Stokes for eminence in his profession. His
reputation was made by his great work on Clinical
Medicine. Upper Merrion Street.
The most striking feature of the street is the impressive
block of Government Buildings. Here are the Offices of
the Taoiseach (Prime Minister) and also those of the
Ministries of State.
Opposite Government Buildings is Mornington House
(No. 24), now occupied by the Land Commission. Here
in 1769 was born Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington.

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 35
His father, the Earl of Mornington, it may be mentioned,
was a celebrated glee composer — not, apparently, a
lucrative hobby, for Lady Mornington is described as "a
cold and severe woman, who had a difficult struggle to
bring up her family."
In 1 791 Mornington House passed into the possession
of Robert Lawless, Lord Cloncurry, and ten years later it
was occupied by Lord Castlereagh. Castlereagh was living
at Momington House during the historic Union debates
in the Irish Parliament.

Ely Place
Many famous people have dwelt in this quiet and
fashionable cuUde'sac. John Philpot Curran, the most
famous member of the Irish Bar, lived at No. 4 during the
early part of his career. From Ely Place he moved to
Harcourt Street and later to No. 80 St. Stephen's Green.
During the third decade of the last century Charles
Kendal Bushe lived at No. 5. It was said that the great
advocate "charmed the verdict from the jury by the
fascination of his eye." Kemble, indeed, pronounced him
the most perfect actor off the stage.
At No. 6 lived and died John Fitzgibbon, Earl of Clare.
He was Attorney-General and Lord High Chancellor of
Ireland, and his career displayed "dauntless courage, the
highest intellect, the utmost selfishness and unrestrained
arrogance." No. 25 was for some time the residence of John Wilson
Croker, editor of Boswell's "Life of Johnson."
The late George Moore, on his return to Ireland, lived
at No. 4, and it was while in residence here that he
collected the material for his famous autobiography, "Hail
and Farewell."

Fitzwilliam Square.
No. 2 was the town residence of William Dargan, the
famous railway contractor, who spent /lo-ooo of his own
fortune to meet the deficit of the Dublin Industrial
Exhibition of 1853.

36 DUBLIN
Lower Baggot Street.
The brothers John and Henry Sheares lived at No. 1 28,
and it was here that Henry was arrested.
Thomas Davis died (1845) at No. 67 (then 61) Lower
Baggot Street.
St. Stephen's Green.
At No. 9 Sir Walter Scott was entertained by his son,
Captain Scott, then in Dublin with his regiment. Lockhart
writes, "On Thursday the 14th [July, 1825] we reached
Dublin in time for dinner, and found Walter and his bride
established in one of those large and noble houses in St.
Stephen's Green, the most extensive square in Europe."
William Conyngham Plunket lived at No. 18. He was
Lord Chancellor of Ireland, 1 830-1 841.
Kerry, or Shelbourne House, former residence of the
Fitzmaurices, Earls of Kerry and of Shelbourne, was de
stroyed in 1818. The new building erected on this site is
now incorporated in the Shelbourne Hotel, founded in
1820 by Martin Burke, a Tipperaryman. Burke became
very popular because of his disagreement with the find
ings of his fellow-jurors, thus saving the life of Gavan
Du-ffy when on trial after the abortive '48 Rising. No. 32
St. Stephen's Green, included in the eastem portion of the
hotel, was at different periods the residence of some of
Dublin's prominent titled families and state officials. The
very fine ceiling of the Banqueting Room is ascribed to
George Richardson.
About 1833 Felicia Hemans resided at No. 36. Nearby,
in Merrion Row, is the old Huguenot Cemetery.
Nos. 80-81 (formerly Lord Iveagh's town residence)
now houses the Department of Extemal Affairs.
At No. 82 lived the notorious Francis Higgins ("The
Sham Squire"). A shoe-black and potboy, he rose to be
come an attorney, owner of the "Freeman's Journal," and
the possessor of a large fortune. He acquired his nickname
because he gained the hand of a lady by falsely represent
ing himself as a gentleman of landed property. Higgins is
known to have betrayed Lord Edward Fitzgerald for the
sum of ^^1,000. He was "daily to be seen with Buck
Whaley upon the Beaux Walk, in St. Stephen's Green,"

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 37
wearing "a three-cornered hat fringed with swan's down,
a canary-coloured vest, a bright green body coat . . . gold
tassels on his Hessian boots."
Buck Whaley, a famous eighteenth-century "blood,"
lived at No. 86, a handsome stone-fronted mansion, now
the property of the National University. He earned also
the soubriquet "Jerusalem Whaley" by walking to the
Holy City and back in less than two years, for a wager.
Next door to No. 86 is the Church of the Catholic
University, erected in 1856 by Cardinal Newman. It is a
handsome edifice, modelled on a church in Rome, and the
marble which lines the walls was given by Pope Pius IX
to Cardinal Newman. Over the marble panels are cartoons
copied from Raphael. Near the High Altar is a bust of
Cardinal Newman by Farrell.
The houses numbered 124 and 125, on the west side
of the Green, originally formed one building. Robert
Emmet was born here in 1778. His father. Dr. Robert
Emmet, occupied one half of the house, and gave the
other half to Thomas Addis Emmet, an older son, who
was also a prominent member of the United Irish Society.
Harcourt Street.
Sir Jonah Barrington lived at No. 14 for some years
after his marriage. A projecting bow window in the side
of the house overlooked their next-door neighbours. Lord
and Lady Clonmell, who lived in Nos. 16 and 17 (No.
15 was not then built). Sir Jonah's wife appears to have
made full use of this window, much to the annoyance of
Lady Clonmell.
Sir Jonah, however, refused to close the offending
window, until Lady Clonmell uttered an extremely effec
tive sarcasm. The window was immediately built up, and
may still be seen in the wall at the entrance to Montague
Street. No. 6 was once the home of Cardinal Newman. In later
years it became the headquarters of Smn Fein, the move
ment out of which has grown the Ireland of to-day. It
was the scene of countless raids by military and police
during the Anglo-Irish war.

38 DUBLIN
Grafton Street.
In the grounds of Trinity College, and screened from
the street by a high wall and iron gateway, is the
impressive Provost's House. Many famous "characters"
have been among the Provosts who resided here.
Percy Bysshe Shelley stayed at No. 17 while on his
visit to Dublin in 181 2. The poet and his wife had many
visitors, among them Curran.
At No. 79 was the school conducted by Samuel Whyte
— surely one of the most remarkable schools of all time.
Among Whyte's pupils were Richard Brinsley Sheridan,
Thomas Moore, Robert Emmet, George Petrie and the
Duke of Wellington.
William Street.
Powerscourt House is one of the finest examples of
Georgian architecture. It was erected in 177 1-4 by
Richard Wingfield, Viscount Powerscourt, at a cost of
^80,000.Aungier Street
A memorial tablet at No. 1 2 denotes the house in which
Thomas Moore was born (1779); his father being in
business here as a grocer and spirit dealer. At an early age
Moore displayed a talent for music, recitation and acting
— he was the "show pupil" of Mr. Whyte's Academy in
Grafton Street.
Digges Street.
John Hogan, the great sculptor, lived at No. 5. His
reputation was first made about 1828, when he exhibited
"The Drunken Faun" at Rome. Visiting Ireland in the
following year, he exhibited another famous work, "The
Dead Christ." It may now be seen in Clarendon Street
Churth. College Green.
No. 3, now the premises of the Yorkshire Insurance
Company, was the central portion of Daly's Club which,
in 1822, extended from Foster Place to Anglesea Street.
Many travellers pronounced the interior decoration of the

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 39
establishment superior to anything of its kind in Europe.
This club was a famous rendezvous for the "bloods" of
the period, dicing, duelling, and drinking being their main
concern. Dame Street.
This thoroughfare took its name from the ancient Gate
of St. Mary le Dam, which stood near the Lower Castle
Yard. The building of Dame Street marked the first ex
tension of the ancient city towards College Green, then
known as "Hoggen" Green.
In the eighteenth century the two leading theatres
(Smock Alley and Crow Street) were situated in this dis
trict, and there was a great bustle of life in Dame Street
and the narrow thoroughfares leading to the river.
On the same side of the street are the premises known
as Commercial Buildings, erected in 1799. A little farther
on is the Olympia Theatre. The City Hall is almost
directly opposite it.
Fleet Street.
John Foster, last Speaker of the Irish Parliament, lived
at No. 50. It fell to his lot to make the announcement of
the passage of the Union, to which he was bitterly
opposed. D'Olier Street.
No. 9 was the residence of Samuel Lover, a prolific
writer of songs and stories. It is scarcely remembered that
he was one of the leading miniature-painters in Dublin.
Pearse Street.
This street, formerly called Great Brunswick Street, h
named after Padraig Pearse, the soldier-scholar-poet
leader of the 19 16 Rising. A plaque, on No. 27, marks
the birthplace of Padraig and his brother Willie (who was
also executed for his part in the Rising). The Pearse
brothers attended the Christian Brothers' School in West-
land Row, nearby.

40 DUBLIN
Westland Row.
Oscar Wilde, the famous poet, dramatist and wit, was
born at No. 21 in 1854. His parents. Sir William and Lady
Wilde, moved to No. i Merrion Square in the following
year. He was educated at Trinity College, Dublin, after
which he went to Oxford University. Lady Wilde was
well kn.own as a writer under the nom de plume
"Speranza." Sir William, a leading oculist, is reputed to
have treated Bernard Shaw's father for a squint — and
to have made it worse. A commemorative plaque, marking
the centenary of the birth of Oscar Wilde was unveiled
here in November, 1954, by Dr. Lennox Robinson.
O'Connell Street.
Running northwards from the river, O'Connell Street
is the finest and most important thoroughfare in Dublin.
In its centre rises the Nelson Pillar, which has been for
more than a century the city's best-known landmark.
Indeed O'Connell Street might well be named the "Street
of Statues," for its alignment of monuments has impressed
visitors from all parts of the world.
The Nelson Pillar, erected in 1808, is 134 feet in height.
An excellent view of Dublin and its environs may be
obtained from the top (admission 6d.). Among other
monuments in O'Connell Street are : — the O'Connell
Monument, a bronze statue from the design of John
Henry Foley. The figure of O'Connell is 1 2 feet in height
and stands upon a massive pedestal. Four winged figures
ai the corners typify characteristics attributed to the
"Liberator" — Patriotism, Eloquence, Justice and Forti
tude; the statue of Father Theobald Mathew, the great
Apostle of Temperance, which was erected in 1890; the
Parnell Monument, erected in 1910. It is by the Irish-
American sculptor, Augustin St. Gaudens. Sir John Gray,
who gave Dublin its fine water supply, is commemorated
by a statue which is the work of Thomas Farrell, R.H.A.
O'Connell Street was formerly known as Sackville
Street. In the eighteenth century the stretch between
Abbey Street and Nelson Pillar was called Drogheda
Street. Shelley, the poet, resided for some time in a house
which stood on the site of No. 7; it was from here, in

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 41
1 8x8, that he distributed his "Address to the Irish
People." At No. 9 stood Drogheda House, a famous
eighteenth-century mansion. At No. 43 were the offices
of the Irish National League, while No. 39 was for many
years the headquarters of the United Irish League.
Near the Nelson Pillar is the General Post Office, which
in Easter Week, 191 6, was made the headquarters of the
Provisional Government set up by the Irish Volunteers.
Military hostilities at that period and in subsequent yeas
resulted in the almost complete destruction of O'Connell
Street. But it has risen in splendour from its ashes and
serves as an appropiate symbol of Dublin's irrepressible
spirit. This fine thoroughfare has seen history in the
making, for it has witnessed every great national
demonstration of triumph or sorrow
Parliament Street.
The office of the Fenian newspaper "The Irish People"
was at No. 1 2.
At No. 27 lived George Faulkner, the famous Dublin
publisher, and proprietor of the "Dublin Journal." He was
Swift's printer and brought out the Drapier Letters, as
well as an edition of the Dean's works.
Lord Edward Street.
At No. 3 (now demolished) was born James Clarence
Mangan (1803). His father carried on a business at this
address. The unhappy poet lived for a time at No. 6 York
Street. Christchurch Place.
On the site of Nos. 6 and 7 stood, for nearly a century,
one of Dublin's chief coffee houses. The establishment,
known as Dick's Coffee-House, was maintained by
Richard Pue, the publisher of "Pue's Occurrences."
Edmund Burke records, 1747 ; "As I sat in a shop under
Dick's Coffee-House, the back house which joined it fell
and buried Pue, the coffee-house keeper, and his wife in
the ruins."

42 DUBLIN
Thomas Street.
This street, formerly the main thoroughfare leading
into Dublin from the west, is closely associated with two
of Ireland's most beloved patriots. At No. 22, now a
public library. Lord Edward Fitzgerald, leader of the
United Irishmen, spent some days before his capture. He
was arrested at Nos. 151 and 152, the residence of one
Nicholas Murphy, on i8th May, 1798. Murphy's account
tells how Major Sirr "pushed by me quickly, and Lord
Edward seeing him, sprung up instantly like a tiger, and
drew a dagger . . . Major Sirr had a pistol in his waist
coat which he fired without effect. I was immediately
taken away to the Yard." Lord Edward received a wound
in the shoulder, from the effects of which he died in prison.
Thomas Street was also the scene of Robert Emmet's
abortive insurrection on the evening of 23rd July, 1803.
It was here that Lord Kilwarden, a just and humane
judge, was killed by some of Emmet's followers, who mis
took him for a much-hated colleague. Emmet was hanged
in front of St. Catherine's Church, not far from the place
where Lord Kilwarden was dragged from his carriage. St.
Catherine's (erected in 1769) still stands, on ground
which has been the site of a church of that name since
the first St. Catherine's was erected there in 1105.

James's Street.
In this street is the visitor's entrance to Guinness's
Brewery. In Bow Lane, off James's Street, is St. Patrick's Hospital
for the treatment of mental diseases. It was founded by
Dean Swift in 1745. and many interesting relics of Swift
are preserved here. In the drawingroom, or study, is the
beautiful escritoire on which he wrote Gulliver's Travels
and many of the letters to Stella. Several pictures of Stella
and the Dean are here also. There are many relics which
recall vividly the life and times of the great satirist — the
tea-caddy which belonged to Mrs. Delany, Swift's snuff
box and his watch, specimens of the notorious "Wood's
Halfpence" which called forth the Drapier Letters, and a
note from Swift to Harding, the printer. Students and

nii 1 ORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 43
others interested in viewing this unique collection are
given every facility.
Arran Qua/.
No. 12 was the birthplace of Edmund Burke (1729).
His father, an attorney, moved afterwards to Ormond
Quay. Marlborough Street.
Tyrone House, erected by the Earl of Tyrone in 1740,
was the first private edifice built of stone in Dublin.
Great Charles Street.
At No. 21 lived George Petrie, LL.D., painter, musician,
antiquary and man of letters. Petrie was head of the
topographical departments of the Ordnance Survey, and
had among his staff, James Clarence Mangan and the
historians John O'Donovan and Eugene O'Curry. The
office in which they worked was in this house.
Great George's Street, North.
Sir Samuel Ferguson, author of "Lays of the Western
Gael," lived at No. 20.
Granby Lane.
In Granby Lane, near Parnell Square, North, a plaque
marks the spot where Matt Talbot died on 7th June, 1925.
The extraordinary story of the life of this holy working
man of Dublin has since spread throughout the world.
Matt Talbot was born, in 1856, at 13 Aldborough Court
(off the North Strand Road). No. 13 is now a building
of red brick, but in 1856 it was probably a low, white
washed cottage. East of Parnell Square is Upper Rutland
Street where, at No. 1 8, Matt Talbot occupied a room for
nearly twenty-five years up to the time of his death.
Parnell Square.
Formerly known as Rutland Square, this was once a
fashionable residential quarter. Around the spacious park
(the Rotunda Gardens) are many handsome houses which
were in former days the residences of nobility. The fine

44 DUBLIN
doorways are interesting, and the interiors of some of the
houses display beautiful workmanship in ceilings, mantel
pieces and staircases.
Charlemont House, now housing the Municipal Gallery
of Modern Art, was built by James Caulheld. Ea'l of
Charlemont, in 1773. Lord Charlemont, one of the
most accomplished men of his time, was the friend of
Goldsmith, Johnson, Boswell and others. He died in 1799
at the age of 71, "in a room on the north or side next
Granby Row."
At No. 14 Parnell Square is the headquarters of the
Gaelic League, which since its foundation in 1893 has
played a vital part in fostering the Irish Ireland ideal and
especially the use of the Irish language.
At the southern end of the Square is the Rotunda. Part
of the Rotunda buildings contains a cinema and a dance-
hall, while another portion houses the Gate Theatre,
which is acknowledged to be one of the finest repertory
theatres in these islands. The Rotunda Hospital, which is
adjacant, has gained world-wide fame as a maternity
institution and attracts students from many countries. The
chapel displays some of the finest stucco work in Dublin.
The Assembly Rooms of the Rotunda were the scene of
many a fasionable gathering in the colourful eighteenth
century. Here was founded the modern Irish resistance
movement, when the inaugural meeting of the Irish
Volunters — at which 4,000 men enrolled — was held
on 25th November, 19 13.
Dorset Street.
No. 12 was the birthplace (1751) of Richard Brinsley
Sheridan, the great dramatist. His father, Thomas
Sheridan, was himself a celebrated actor and author.
Henrietta Street.
At No. 10 lived for a time Marguerite, Countess of
Blessington, of whom Mirabeau wrote : "She will draw
wit out of a fool."
Wolfe Tone Street.
At No. 44 lived Theobald Wolfe Tone in his early

HISTORIC STREETS AND HOUSES 45
years. His father, Peter Tone, carried on business as a
coachmaker at this address. Tone himself went to a school
in this same street.
Synge Street.
In this quiet thoroughfare was born George Bernard
Shaw, who writes : "I do not recall the actual event
[birth], but the house in which I first 'took notice' was
then called No. 3 Upper Synge Street, which became
33 Synge Street when Upper, Middle and Lower were
merged into one. We moved into i Hatch Street, and
after my mother went to London, lived in lodgings v.'ith
my father at 61 Harcourt Street."
Brighton Square, Rathgar.
No. 41 in this three-sided suburban square was the
birthplace of James Joyce (i 882-1 941).

O'

ANCIENT CATHEDRALS AND
CHURCHES
|F the Danish occupation of Dublin no visible traces
now remain. The architecture of mediaeval Dublin,
has, to a large extent, suffered the same fate. Not one of
the houses built by the burghers of Dublin in mediaeval
and Tudor times has survived. But the two cathedrals,
both extensively restored, remain as fine examples of the
ecclesiastical architecture of the period.
CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL.
The older — Christ Church Cathedral — was originally
founded by King Sitric and Donatus, Bishop of Dublin,
in 1038. It stands at the end of Lord Edward Street, on
the high ground where Dublin had its earliest beginnings.
A dubious tradition asserts that the present crypt is a
remnant of the Danish structure, which was demolished
when the Normans (in 11 72) undertook the erection of
a great new cathedral on this site. The work of building
it occupied fifty years.
Christ Church is one of Dublin's finest buildings, and
viewed from Lord Edward Street it presents all the out
lines of a very handsome pile. The exterior has little
ornamental detail, and the general effect is one of sober
beauty. It is interesting to note that the flying buttresses
were not part of the original design. They were first intro
duced in order to prop the north wall of the nave, which
has tilted out of the perpendicular.
The interior of the cathedral is very beautiful, an out
standing feature being the magnificent stonework of the
nave and aisles. Especially noteworthy are the graceful
pointed arches and the delicate chiselling of the support
ing columns. The floor-tiles are copied from those used
in the ancient flooring. The plan of the cathedral is cruci
form, with nave, transepts, choir and chancel. Dating from
the time of Strongbow, the transepts are Ijuilt of dark
46

CATHEDRALS AND CHURCHES 47
limestone; in the north wall of the nave there is also some
very old work, distinguishable by the colour of the stone.
Strongbow's Tomb.
An object of great interest in Christ Church is the
tomb of Strongbow, founder of the cathedral. His strange
monument (an effigy of a recumbent warrior with a child
lying beside him) is said to commemorate the story of
how he killed his son for showing cowardice in battle.
This monument was much damaged by the collapse of the
roof in the sixteenth century.
The crypt, which is the oldest surviving portion of the
building, is well worth a visit. It contains many interesting
historical relics — the Sneyd memorial and other works
by Kirk, statues of Charles II and James II, a pair of stocks,
and the well-known desiccated bodies of "the cat and the
rat." The masonry of the crypt, with its massive vaulting,
is singularly impressive.
Christ church Cathedral is rich in historical associations.
It was the scene, in 1394, of the knighting of four leading
Irish chieftains by Richard II. An equally baroque event
took place within its walls in 1487 when the impostor,
Lambert Simnel, was crowned as King Edward VI. For
some time all acts of government in Ireland ran in his
name. After the Reformation the priory was dissolved, and
became "the deanery and chapter of Christ Church." In
1 55 1, the "Book of Common Prayer" was promulgated in
the cathedral — the first occasion on which the English
liturgy was read in Ireland. Some years later the roof and
south side of the building fell in.
In October, 1689, during the sojourn of James II in
Dublin, Stuart troops seized the cathedral. For the brief
period the rites of the old faith were restored. Mass was
celebrated in the presence of King James, and the candle
sticks and tabernacle used on that occasion may still be
seen in the crypt. During the wars and sectarian squabbles
of later times the old stained glass disappeared, and the
edifice fell into a neglected condition. It continued in this
state until 1871, when Mr. Henry Roe, a wealthy Dublin
distiller, offered to bear the cost of a complete restoration.
The architect, Mr. G. E. Street, adhered closely to the

48 DUBLIN
original design and the work was completed in 1878. Its
total cost was in the neighbourhood or ^250,000.
Visiting Hours. — 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m from May to
September, inclusive; 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. from October to
April, inclusive. Admission to nave free, but contribution
of not less than 6d. payable for view of crypt and other
parts. ST. PATRICKS CATHEDRAL.
From Christ Church a short walk down Nicholas Street
brings one to St. Patrick's Cathedral, towering above its
humble surroundings. The site is low-lying, and the
cathedral has often been flooded by the subterranean
River Poddle which flows beneath the foundations. It will
be noticed that the the lofty steeple is in two sections. The
lower portion is a massive square tower, darkened by six
hundred years of exposure, while the tapering spire of
grey granite dates from the eighteenth century.
St. Patrick's was founded in 1190 by John Comyn, the
first Englishman to become Archibishop of Dublin. The
original edifice was partially destroyed by fire towards the
close of the fourteenth century, and extensive rebuilding
was carried out by Archbishop Minot. In 1320 the Pope
founded a university, which had its home in the cathedral
until suppressed by Henry VIII. The Chapter of St.
Patrick's staunchly resisted the Reformation and its
revenues were confiscated. Ornaijients and paintings were
cast out or obliterated by the followers of the new doc
trines. During the wars of the seventeenth century
Cromwellian troopers stabled their horses in the aisles.
Many great figures have been associated with the cathed
ral, but none more renowned than Jonathan Swift, who
was Dean of St. Patrick's from 1713 to 1745.
The cathedral is cruciform in design and measures 300
feet long by 67 feet wide. Its transept width is 157 feet.
The style is mainly Eariy English, apart from the steeple
already mentioned and the tower erected by Archbishop
Minot. He favoured the grand style, and the tower —
obviously built for defensive purposes — is 147 feet in
height and has walls ten feet thick. It still contains a fine
peal of bells cast in the seventeenth century.

CATHEDRALS AND CHURCHES 49
Though less elaborate than Christ Church, the interior
of St. Patrick's is extraordinarily impressive. The great
length of the nave, with its high groined roof and pointed
arches, the banners of the Knights of St. Patrick above
the choir stalls, and the stained-glass windows in the Lady
Chapel produce an effect of rare dignity and splendour.
Indeed, the atmosphere seems heavy with great memories,
for one sees on all sides relics and monuments which recall
centuries of history.
The largest of these monuments is that erected in 1631
by Richard Boyle, first Earl of Cork. This massive piece
of work perpetuates the memory of the Boyle family,
various members of which are depicted on the monument.
In the centre of the lowest tier is Robert, the chemist, dis
coverer of "Boyle's Law." A number of tablets and monu
ments are to be seen in the north aisle, among those com
memorated being Turlough O'Carolan, the last of the Irish
bards; John Philpot Curran; and Samuel Lover, the
novelist and song-writer. There is also a monument to
Archbishop Jones, who was dean of the cathedral in 1581.
In this portion of the building may be seen the plain
wooden pulpit from which Swift preached.
Memories of Swift.
But it is the south aisle of the nave that evokes most
vividly the sombre spirit of the great dean. His tomb lies
to the right of the entrance porch, and nearby is the grave
of "Stella" (Esther Johnson), Swift's partner in one of
the most enigmatic and tragic love stories of history.
There is also a fine marble bust of Swift, and over the door
of the robing-room one may read his own bitter and
immortal epitaph: "He lies where furious indignation can
no longer rend his heart."
Other points of interest are the beautiful Lady Chapel
behind the altar, the memorial (in the north choir aisle)
to the Duke of Schomberg, killed at the Battle of the
Boyne, and the pre-Reformation brasses in the south choir
aisle. The Schomberg memorial has a trenchant epitaph
by Swift.
During the nineteenth century St. Patrick's, like Christ
Church, fell into a dilapidated condition. About i860 the

50 DUBLIN
building was declared to be in a ruinous state, but it was
saved through the munificence of Sir Benjamin Lee
Guinness, a member of the famous brewing family. He
undertook a thorough restoration of the historic edifice.
The work occupied four years and cost ^ 160,000. The
pleasant little park (St. Patrick's Park) beside the
cathedral was also provided by the Guinness family.
The cathedral is open free to visitors every week'day
from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Its Choral Services, which are
deservedly famous, are held on week'day s at 10 a.m. and
4 p.m.
ST. WERBURGH'S CHURCH.
In Werburgh Street, off Christ Church Place, is St.
Werburgh's Church, one of the oldest in Dublin. It was
built during the reign of Henry II by the "men of Bristol"
who colonised the city. Like its sister church in Bristol,
it is dedicated to St. Werburgh, daughter of Wulfhere,
King of Mercia.
The original building was partially destroyed in 1301.
In 1662 it was repaired and extensively enlarged. St.
Werburgh's was for a long period, the Parish Church of
Dublin and here were held many historic functions. Pre
vious to the erection of the Chapel Royal in the Lower
Castle Yard, Viceroys were sworn into office at St.
Werburgh's. Beneath the church are 27 vaults, two of which are
under the chancel. In one of these lies the body of Lord
Edward Fitzgerald, enclosed in a huge coffin over seven
feet long. An object of very great interest is the Geraldine
Monument, probably the most ancient memorial now re
maining in the city.
This massive monument belonged to the once famous
Priory of All Hallows, which stood on the site of the pre
sent Trinity College. It rested subsequently in the now
destroyed Church of St. Mary le Dam, whence it was
removed to St. Werburgh's. The monument displays the
Geraldine arms, almost effaced by time and exposure, and
the recumbent effigies of a knight in armour and his wife.
Sixteen symbolic figures ornament the side and both ends.
A slab placed on the wall above the tomb states that it

CATHEDRALS AND CHURCHES 51
was originally built into the outer south wall of the church
in the seventeenth century, and was erected in its present
position in 1914 by the Duke of Leinster. Sir James Ware
(1594-1666), the historian, is also buried in the vaults.
The interior of the church is in an excellent state of
preservation. The pulpit, a beautiful piece of Francis
Johnston Gothic, carved by Stewart, was transferred here
in 1877 from the Church of St. John, Fishamble Street.
In the graveyard attached to St. Werburgh's, by a strange
coincidence, lie the remains of Major Sirr, who was
chiefly instrumental in Lord Edward Fitzgerald's capture
and death.
Sexton resides at 8 Castle Street, around corner from
church, and visits to church via Castle Street entrance are
permitted (free) from 10 a.m.. to 4 p.m. on week'day s.
CHURCH OF ST. MICHAN.
In Church Street (near the Four Courts) stands St.
Michan's Church, a seventeenth-century structure erected
on the site of a Danish church which was founded about
A.D. 1096. The square battlemented tower is much older
than the rest of the building and is believed to date from
the Danish period. It is 120 feet high and commands an
extensive view of the city. In the church there is some fine
carved woodwork and an organ bearing the date 1724.
Handel is said to have played on it. An object of curious
interest is the "stool of repentance," on which transgres
sors confessed their sins before the congregation. In a wall-
recess nearby is the effigy (in recumbent posture) of
Bishop Samuel O'Haingli, the eleventh-century founder of
the church.
Strange Vaults.
But the strangest feature of St. Michan's lies under
ground. In its vaults may be seen bodies which have lain
for centuries without showing signs of decomposition.
The amazing preservation of these corpses is probably due
to peculiar desiccating qualities in the atmosphere, for it
will be noticed that the vaults are absolutely dry.
An inspection of these remarkable vaults is a strange
experience, though not a really gruesome one. The skin of

52 DUBLIN
the corpses remains soft as in life, but it has taken on a
brown leather-like appearance. Even facial characteristics
may be distinguished, and most visitors are particularly
impressed by the well-preserved features of "The Nun,"
whose corpse is said to be three hundred years old. Even
more interesting is the corpse of "The Crusader," which
lies alongside the former. The leather-like hands of the
Crusader have become shiny from the custom, which most
visitors honour, of "shaking hands" with the corpse.
It has been suggested that the churchyard of St.
Michan's contains the unnamed grave of Robert Emmet.
This is a matter of conjecture, but the brothers Sheares,
insurgent leaders of 1 798, are interred in the vaults. Their
remains were re-encoffined in March, 1940,
St. Michan's has associations with a number of histori
cal figures. The remains of Oliver Bond and Charles Lucas
are interred in the cemetery, and Sir Patrick Dun was
buried under the chancel of the church. It was here, too,
that the body of Charles Stewart Parnell lay in state on
the night before his burial at Glasnevin.
Church and vaults open week'day s 10 a.m. to i p.m.
and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Vaults
closed on Sundays. Admission i/- per person; children
under 12 years 6d.
CHURCH OF ST. AUDOEN.
In High Street, off Cornmarket, stands St. Audoen's
Church, the oldest of Dublin's many parish churches. It
was founded by the Normans shortly after their arrival
in the city and dedicated to St. Ouen of Rouen — the
name Audoen being a Latinised version. The building is
now partially ruined, but portion of it is still used for
public worship. The latest part of St. Audoen's to be
erected was the Portlester Chapel, built in the fifteenth
century by Sir Rowland FitzEustace, Baron Portlester. The
recumbent effigies of Portlester and his wife, with the date
1455, may be seen under the tower.
St. Audoen's was formerly a thriving church and it con
tains a number of interesting tombs and monuments,
Many members of great families are interred here, and also
several Lord Mayors of Dublin. The celebrated William

CATHEDRALS AND CHURCHES 53
Molyneux is buried in the vaults and is commemorated by
a monument in the wall of the Portlester Chapel.
The Norman font is of great interest. It is a beautiful
specimen of an early square-bowl font, dated 1 192. In the
porch may be seen a crude-looking stone, known as the
"Lucky Stone" of St. Audoen's, which has been held in
veneration for centuries. This stone is first mentioned in
1309, when John le Decer, Mayor of Dublin, erected a
water-trough in Cornmarket and placed the stone beside
it, so that all who drank the waters might have luck.
There is a fine peal of bells in the tower, three of them
being the oldest bells in Ireland. All three were cast in
1423, though only one bell bears the date. In 1658 two
more bells were added, and a sixth in 1694.
Beside the church is St. Audoen's Arch, the only sur
viving gate of the ancient walled city of Dublin. It was
built in 1 21 5 with stones taken from the old Dominican
monastery on the site of which the Four Courts now
stands. In a tower-room over St. Audoen's Arch were held
the meetings of many of the old City Guilds. Here also
was printed, in 1763, the first issue of the Freeman's
Journal, one of Dublin's leading newspapers during a
period of one hundred and sixty years.

A CULTURAL METROPOLIS
Oh, Dublin City, there is no doubtin'.
Is the finest city upon the sea —
'Tis there you may see O'Connell spoutin'
And Lady Morgan making tea.
— (Anonymous Street-Ballad)
INTELLECTUAL activity is usually begotten by, a social
life that has a strong element of adventure, even of
eccentricity. Dublin has been, in every age, a city of vivid
"characters" and its magnificent contribution to the
world's culture is indelibly marked by the genius of place
and personality. The brains and the speech and the
humour of its citizens have formed the raw material of
some of the greatest literary masterpieces of modern times.
Dublin in Literature.
For Dublin has produced and nurtured an astonishing
number of eminent writers — among them some out
standing figures in the history of modern prose. In the
Deanery of St. Patrick's lived and wrote Jonathan Swift,
a Dubliner bom, and the greatest satirist in English litera
ture. Among Swift's contemporaries in Dublin were
Bishop Berkeley and Edmund Burke ,both renowned as
prose-writers and philosophers.
During the nineteenth century many great literary per
sonalities were associated with the city. James Clarence
Mangan, who is regarded as the greatest of the Anglo-
Irish poets, was born in Dublin in 1803. Here he lived his
unhappy life and wrote the songs which made his name
immortal. He died during an outbreak of cholera, in 1849,
m the Meath Hospital, Dublin. Tom Moore, the darling
of London drawing-rooms, frequently revisited his native
Dublin and adorned the soirees of Lady Morgan (Sydney
Owenson), herself a popular novelist. Charies Lever, as a
medical student, mingled with his boisterous fellows and
caricatured them for a host of delighted readers in Harry
Lorrequer and other novels. In his Merrion Square house
54

A CULTURAL METROPOLIS 55
lived the eccentric Sheridan Le Fanu, author of Uncle
Silas and The House by the Churchyard, whose stories of
the supematural rank with those of Edgar Allan Poe. Also
in Merrion Square lived Sir William and Lady Wilde,
parents of the famous dramatist. Lady Wilde earned a
reputation for her patriotic poetry written under the nom
de plume, "Speranza."
In our own time the . city has inspired much fine
writing. Hail and Farewell, George Moore's brilliant and
scandalous chronicle of the Irish Literary Renaissance, is
perhaps the best work by this acknowledged master of
English prose. While living in Dublin, James Stephens
wrote, among other works. The Crock of Gold, surely one
of the most felicitous novels of this century. But a still
greater landmark of literature is James Joyce's Ulysses,
which has made the idiom and topography of Dublin
familiar to readers the world over.
In the annals of the theatre Dublin occupies a position
ot the first importance. Congreve and Farquhar were both
educated at Trinity College, as was Oliver Goldsmith, that
unhappy genius whose immortal comedy has brought
mirth to generations of playgoers. As a comic masterpiece
She Stoops to Conquer is rivalled only by The School for
Scandal, written by a Dubliner, Richard Brinsley Sheridan.
The passing of Goldsmith and Sheridan was followed
by a long period of mediocrity in the history of the
English stage, and it is remarkable that the next great
names to emerge should be those of two Dublin-bom
dramatists, Oscar Wilde and Bernard Shaw.
Connradh na Gaedhilge (The Gaelic League).
The Gaelic League, a voluntary, non-political and non-
sectarian organisation whose object is the restoration of
the Irish language, was founded in Dublin in 1893. It has
played a very important part in the making of the new
Ireland, and its patriotic influence was the main inspiration
of the 1916 Rising and the subsequent struggle for Irish
Independence. The League was the first body to take up
the publication of modem literature in Irish. Irish
, industry, too, owes much to the pioneer work of the
; organisation. Members of the League have been active

56 DUBLIN
leaders in every sphere of Irish life. Dr. Douglas Hyde,
founder of the League and its president from 1893 to
1 91 5, later became first President of Ireland. Sean T.
O Ceallaigh, President of Ireland, was formeriy General
Secretary of the League. Padraig Pearse, Thomas Ashe,
Terence MacSwiney, Cathal Brugha, Father O'Growney,
Cardinal O'Donnell, Archbishop Croke and Father Peter
O'Leary were among the many distinguished Irishmen
who were active Gaelic Leaguers.
The League's headquarters are at 14 Parnell Square,
and there are about 300 branches in Ireland, England,
Scotland and the U.S.A. Its activities cover such fields as
adult education, lectures and debates, music, drama,
feiseanna (festivals of folk-dancing and music, Irish
language competitions, etc.), and An tOireachtas
(Ireland's literary festival).
Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies.
The Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies was estab
lished in 1940 by an Act of the Oireachtas (Legislature).
Its functions and duties, as set forth in the Act, are to
provide facilities for the furtherance of advanced study
and research in specialised branches of knowledge. These
functions and duties are fulfilled by means of Constituent
Schools for different specialised branches of knowledge.
The administration of the Institute and its Constituent
Schools lies with the Council of the Institute, which con
sists of a chairman appointed by the President on the
advice of the Government, three ex'officio members (i.e.
the President of University College, Dublin, the Provost
of Trinity College, Dublin, and the President of the Royal
Irish Academy), and two members appointed by each
Governing Board of a Constituent School.
Each Constituent School is under the control and.
management of a Governing Board consisting of a
chairman, the senior professors of the School (who are
eX'officio members), and a number of appointed members..
The chairman and members are appointed by the
Piesident on the advice of the Government.
Three Constituent Schools have already been estab
lished, viz. — The School of Celtic Studies. — established ini

A CULTURAL METROPOLIS 57
October, 1940; The School of Theoretical Physics —
established in October, 1940; and The School of Cosmic
Physics — established in March, 1947.
The w;ork of the School of Celtic Studie.<= and of the
School of Theoretical Physics is carried on at 64-65
Merrion Square, Dublin; that of the School of Cosmic
Physics at 5 Merrion Square and in Dunsink Observatory,
Co. Dublin (see page 116).
A report of the work of the Institute and its Constituent
Schools is presented annually by the Council of the In
stitute to the Government and laid before both Houses of
the Oireachtas (Legislature).
The Irish Folklore Commission.
This Commission which was set up in 1935, is housed
at 82 St. Stephen's Green. Its work is the placing on re
cord of the Irish traditional way of life — dwelling, live
lihood .trade, travel, social life, belief and custom, histori
cal and religious tradition, tales, songs, music and pastimes.
The archive has now over ij million pages of manuscript,
together with collections of sound recordings and photo
graphs and a specialist library of 10,000 books. Students
and others interested may see the collection by appoint
ment with the Secretary.
The Abbey Theatre.
Within the present century Dublin has fostered one
of the most significant movements in the history of the
modern theatre. The Abbey Theatre first opened its
doors in December, 1904, ana became a Mecca of theatre
goers from every comer of the earth. The "Abbey"
achieved international fame in 1907, with the world-
premiere of Synge's masterpiece. The Playboy of the
Western World. It produced also the same auhtor's
Riders to the Sea, perhaps the finest one-act play
ever written. In the years following the first World War,
there appeared another great dramatist, Sean O'Casey,
who drew the material for his best work from the life of
the Dublin slums, now fast disappearing.
The verse-plays of W. B. Yeats (the greatest of modern
poets) have given unusual distinction to the repertory of

58 DUBLIN
the Abbey Theatre. Among other well-known dramatists
of the Abbey group are Lennox Robinson, Padraic Colum,
T. C. Murray, George Fitzmaurice and George Shiels. In
more recent years the tradition of the Abbey Theatre has
been splendidly maintained in the best work of Paul
Vincent Carroll and the Dublin-born Denis Johnston.
Dublin as a Musical Centre.
The most celebrated event in Dublin's musical
history took place in 1742. It was the first performance of
Handel's "Messiah" at the Musick Hall in Fishamble
Street. Eighteenth-century Dublin evinced a high stan
dard of taste in music, as in other arts, and Handel's visit
was not an isolated event. Many eminent figures in the
world of music were attracted to the Irish capital, and
Geminiani, the greatest virtuoso of his time, lived for
several years in Dublin.
During the period of stagnation which followed the
Union of 1800 musical culture was at a low ebb, the only
notable occurrence being the foundation (in 1837) of the
Trinity College Choral Society. Tradition was kept alive
by a few devoted lovers of music, among >yhom the most
notable was Joseph Robinson. He was one of the earliest
members of the Royal Irish Academy of Music (founded
in 1856), an institution which contributed greatly to the
rise of Dublin as a noted teaching centre. This reputation
has been maintained by a succession of distinguished
musicians from the great conservatoires of Europe, and
particularly enhanced by the work of Commendatore
Esposito.The Fels Cecil.
Another organisation which has done great service to
musical culture is the Few Ceoil (Irish Musical Festival).
The Feis Ceoil was founded in 1897 ^° promote the study
of Irish music, and to foster the general cultivation of
music in Ireland. Its programme included the promotion
of an annual Musical Festival, featuring various competi
tions. The first Feis Ceoil in 1897 attracted just over four
hundred competitors; in recent years that number has
been trebled. Since its inception the organisation has done.

A CULTURAL METROPOLIS 59
much to raise the standard of vocal and instrumental
music At least two world-famous singers — John
McCormack and Margaret Burke-Sheridan — won their
earliest laurels at the Dublin Feis Ceoil.
Among other prominent manifestations of Dublin's
musical culture may be mentioned the Culwick Choral
Society, the Rathmines and Rathgar Musical Society, the
Dublin Operatic Society, the Dublin Grand Opera Society
and the long-established Hibernian Catch Club.
Our Lady's Choral Society and the more recently
formed Our Lady's Symphony Orchestra are further
valuable contributions to the city's progress in matters
musical. The Choir's brilliant performances in Rome and
Paris in 1950 (Holy Year) proved that Dublin can hold
its own among the cities of the world in the field of choral
music. Famous Scientists and Scholars.
In the spheres of scholarship and scientific enquiry
Dublin has produced many outstanding figures. Most
renowned of Dublin's scientists was the great mathe
matician. Sir William Rowan Hamilton (1805-1865), the
discoverer of Quaternions. Hamilton made a most impor
tant contribution to geometrical optics, and his work in
the field of dynamics foreshadowed the quantum theory,
of the atom. Other famous Dublin mathematicians were
George Francis Fitzgerald, who paved the way for
Einstein's theory of relativity, and George Salmon (a pro
vost of Trinity College), whose books on algebra and
geometry brought him an international reputation. An
other notable figure associated with Trinity College was
the versatile Professor John Joly. He made important con
tributions to physics and geology, and invented one of
the earliest methods of colour-photography.
As a centre of medical teaching Dublin has long enjoyed
an outstanding reputation. Among its pioneers in medical
research may be mentioned William Stokes, whose volume
on respiratory diseases is a classic, and Robert Graves,
remembered for his work on Clinical Medicine.
Of Dublin's scholars perhaps the greatest was Sir James
Ware (1594-1666), the antiquary and historian. His

6o

DUBLIN

works on various departments of Irish history were written
in Latin. Edmund Malone, famous for his edition of
Shakespeare, was bom in Dublin in 1741. George Petrie,
an amazingly versatile scholar, is equally renowned for
his collection of Irish Music and for his volume on the
"Ecclesiastical Architecture of Ireland," in which he estab
lished the origin of the Round Towers. John Pentland
MahaQy (i 839-1919) also a versatile scholar, was one of
Dublin's most famous "characters." Among many histori
cal writers born in Dublin were W. E. H. Lecky and Sir
John Gilbert, the principal historian of the city.
For more than three centuries Dublin has fostered a
vigorous intellectual life. No city of comparable size can
claim so many illustrious names. Few cities, indeed, have
contributed more nobly to the culture and enlightenment
of mankind.

DUBLIN LIBRARIES
JpvuBLlN possesses many invaluable collections of books
A-/ and manuscripts. The treasures of its libraries quicken
the imagination to a kinship with distant ages and long-
dead personalities; many of them recall vividly Ireland's
rich and ancient culture. Almost every notable library is
open to visitors, but in some cases permission should be
sought from the proper authorities.
TRINITY COLLEGE LIBRARY.
The oldest and most famous of Dublin's libraries is,
of course, that of Trinity College. The library dates from
1 60 1 and the earliest catalogue gave a list of 40 books.
To-day it houses about 500,000 printed books and over
2,000 MSS. Its fame was first made through the acquisi
tion of Archbishop Ussher's collection of books and
manuscripts. By an Act of 1801 the library has the right
to a copy of every book printed in Ireland or Great Britain.
Famous Manuscripts.
There are hundreds of interesting manuscripts, of
which the oldest are the Egyptian Papyri and some manu
scripts of Greek and Latin. There are over 140 Irish
manuscripts, some dating from the sixth century, contain
ing copies of the Gospels, history, civil and ecclesiastical
records, genealogies, poetry, romance, law, medicine, and
astronomy. The Library's most famous possession is the "Book of
Kells," a MS. of the Gospels, dating probably from the
eighth century. Re-bound in 1953, the book was divided
into four sections. It is the most wonderful of all
illuminated manuscripts.
The "Book of Durrow" is a MS. of the Gospels
believed to date from the seventh century. "The Book of
Armagh," thought to have been written by Ferdomnach
of Armagh in 807, contains a complete copy of the New
Testament in Latin. The "Liber Hymnorum" (eleventh
61

62 DUBLIN
century) contains hymns in Latin and Irish. The "Book of
Leinster," a large folio of over 400 pages, was compiled
by Finn MacGorman, Bishop of Kildare, who died in
1 160. The "Yellow Book of Lecan," containing 500 pages
of large quarto vellum, was written by Donnoch and
Giolla losa Mac Firbis in 1390.
There are many MSS. relating to later periods in
Ireland. These include a volume of letters of Queen
Elizabeth on the Public Affairs of Ireland (1565- 1570),
each letter bearing her signature. There is also a volume of
Lord Chichester's correspondence (161 2-1 61 4), and much
material dealing with the wars of 1641 and 1690. Twelve
volumes of Major Sirr's papers provide an invaluable
commentary on the insurrection of 1798. A valuable ac
quisition was the notebooks and diary of Theobald Wolfe
Tone, presented to the library in 1923.
Early Printed Books.
The library has the finest collection of incunabula (i.e.,
fifteenth-century printed books) in Ireland. There is one
book from Caxton's press — "Dictes and Sayings of
Philosophers," which was printed at Westminster in 1477.
Other notable volumes include: — A copy of the first
German Bible (1466); a copy of the Latin Bible printed
at Cologne by Nic Goetz de Schletzstadt (1474); a first
edition of Petrarch's "Sonnetti e Trionfi" (1470); a first
edition of "La Divina Commedia" (1472); a first edition
of Boccaccio's "Theseide" (1475). The library also pos
sesses four folios of Shakespeare (1623, 1632, 1664, 1685).
The library may be visited free by the public on week'
days from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (February to October inclu'
sive) and from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (November to January,
inclusive). Saturdays, 10 a.m. to i p.m. The library is
usually closed during the first two weeks of July. A porter,
who will act as guide, may be contacted at main entrance
gate. NATIONAL LIBRARY OF IRELAND.
This is the State Library and the largest public library
in the country. It is housed in a handsome edifice in
Kildare Street. The nucleus of the library, founded in 1877,

DUBLIN LIBRARIES 63
was the cellection of books donated by the Royal Dublin
Society. At present there are in the library some half a
million books, besides many maps, prints and manuscripts.
The library is particularly rich in the more expensive
works on Botany, Zoology and Fine Arts, while the
collection of maps of- Ireland is unrivalled. The famous
Joly Collection includes 70,000 prints, among which is a
group of Irish portraits numbering 3,000.
A unique possession of the National Library is its
collection of Irish newspapers, which, since the destruction
of the Public Record Office in the Four Courts, has become
invaluable as a source of historical evidence. The collection
comprises well over 15,000 volumes, and is constantly
being added to. It is stored in a new wing specially built
to accommodate it.
The library contains a large collection of historical and
literary manuscripts relating to Ireland, which is supple
mented by microfilms of documents relating to Ireland
from foreign libraries and archives.
A notable feature of the National Library is its public-
service counter, where readers and visitors may consult
officials who are invariably courteous and helpful.
The library is open on week'day s from 10 a.m. to 10
p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to i p.m.
ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY LIBRARY.
The Library of the Royal Irish Academy contains one
of the most extensive collections of ancient Irish manu
scripts in Ireland. The most important of the Irish
manuscripts is "Leabhar na hUidhre" (or the Book of
the Dun Cow), a fragment consisting of 138 folio pages
written on very old vellum. It was compiled by Mael-
muire, son of Ceilechair, from other books probably of a
much earlier date. Maelmuire was killed in 1106. The
contents of the book comprise history and romances of
the pre-Christian and Christian periods.
"The Book of Ballymote," written in the year 1391,
contains histories, genealogies, romances, ancient law and
an ancient grammar. The "Leabhar Breac" (Speckled
Book) was written by a member of the learned Mac Egan
family about the end of the fourteenth century. It is the

64 DUBLIN
most important collection of religious, ecclesiastical and
theological compositions in Irish now extant. "The
Cathach" or Battlebook, the great heirloom of the
O'Donnells, handed down in that family for 1,300 years,
is a highly ornamented shrine enclosing a fragment of a
copy of the Psalms on vellum. The manuscript is believed
to be the actual copy made by St. Columcille about the
middle of the sixth century. The shrine is in the Royal
Irish Academy's collection in the National Museum, but
the manuscript is in the Royal Irish Academy Library. The
"Yellow Book of Lecan," compiled by Giolla losa Mor
Mac Firbis in the year, 1416, is a compilation from books
that were ancient centuries before Mac Firbis was bom.
The "Stowe Missal" is an ancient Irish Missal and ritual
in characters of the tenth and eleventh centuries, with
ornamental oak cover.
Of more recent date is the copy of the "Annals of the
Four Masters," one of the original autograph copies com
piled in the Abbey of Donegal between 1632 and 1636.
This vast chronicle contains the traditional history of
Ireland, going back for over 2,000 years B.C. It is a com
pilation made from all the ancient books which were in
existence (or from copies which were available) in the
seventeenth century; many of those books have since been
lost. The library is open on week'days 9.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.,
during the months of July, August and September; it is
closed between i and 2 p.m. Saturdays 9.30 a.m. to 1
p.m. Admission free.
MARSH'S LIBRARY.
Founded by Narcissus Marsh, Archbishop of Dublin,
in 1707, St. Sepulchre (or Marsh's) Library is the oldest
public library in Ireland. It is situated near St. Patrick's
Cathedral, and the aspect of the library has changed litde
since its foundation.
The collection, numbering over 25,000 volumes, con
sists chiefly of theology, medicine, ancient history, maps,
Hebrew, Syriac, Greek, Latin and French literature. There
are some 250 volumes of manuscripts (including the
collections of Dr. Dudley Loftus relating to Irish history),

DUBLIN LIBRARIES 65
a number of early printed books, and many pamphlets.
Also to be seen are books which belonged to Archbishop
Laud and Isaac Casaubon. There is a copy of Bellarmine's
"Disputationes" bearing the autograph of Laud and some
annotations in his fine delicate script. Casaubon's signature
and notes are to be seen on a copy of Baronius' "Annals."
The library has Dean Swift's copy (three volumes) of
Clarendon's "History of the Great Rebellion," with Swift's
pencilled notes.
The entrance to the library is in the South Close, adjoin'
ing St. Patrick's Cathedral. Readers and visitors are
admitted free. The library is open from 11 a.m. to 1.30
p.m and 3 p.m. to 4.30 p.m., on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wed'
nesdays and Fridays; from 11 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 3
p.m. to 4.30 p.m. on Thursdays. Saturdays, 11 a.m. to
I p.m. Closed during July. Copies of the official "Account"
of the library may be had from the Librarian, price is.'
THE FRANCISCAN LIBRARY.
This library (containing' a remarkable collection of
manuscripts of the twelfth and later centuries), formerly
housed in the Franciscan Convent, Merchants* Quay, has
been removed to the Franciscan House of Studies, Kil-
liney, Co. Dublin. Consultation of manuscripts arranged
by appointment.
KING'S INNS LIBRARY.
Another notable library is that of the King's Inns
(founded 1787) in Henrietta Street. The collection com
prises over 100,000 printed volumes, among which are a
unique collection of Irish county histories, all the Dublin
Directories ever printed (with one exception), and nearly
10,000 pamphlets. There are thirty-six Irish manuscripts,
two second folios of Shakespeare and many incunabula.
CHESTER BEATTY LIBRARY.
This private library, housed at 20 Shrewsbury Road,
contains what is considered to be the most valuable and
representative private collection of Oriental MSS. and
miniatures in the world. It was collected over 40 years
by Sir Alfred Chester Beatty. The collection is very varied

66 DUBLIN
and extensive and includes the celebrated Chester Beatty
Biblical Papyri, which contain the oldest MSS. of the New
Testament, certain unique Manichaean papyri (Coptic
translations of the lost religious books of the Manichaean
faith), an extensive library of finely decorated Oriental
MSS. and miniatures from most of the countries of the
East. Among these are separate collections of Arabic rare
texts, Persian, Indian and Turkish MSS., illuminated
Korans from different Islamic countries and many other
MSS. It also contains large numbers of examples of the
various types of Farther Indian book art and that of other
Asiatic lands. The Far- Eastern section includes many
albums, picture scrolls and jades, and a notable series of
Japanese colour prints and colour print books. There is
also a fine collection of choice Western illuminated MSS.
The large miscellaneous library includes numerous fine
books of colour plates and engravings, early editions of
the Oriental classics, works of travel and atlases.
The exhibits are changed from time to time, and in
addition items are lent to various exhibitions in Dublin.
The library may be viewed by the public each Wednes'
day from 2.30 until 6 p.m. in summer, and from 2 until
5 p.m. in winter.

OTHER LIBRARIES.
The Library of University College, Dublin, has
about 100,000 volumes, including the Zimmer collection,
of interest to students of Celtic languages, and the library
of the historian, John Richard Green. Among its manu
scripts is the great seventeenth-century compilation, the
Book of Genealogies by Mac Firbis.
Having donated its collection to form the nucleus of the
National Library, the Royal Dublin Society has since ac
cumulated more than 150,000 volumes for the use of its
members. The Oireachtas Library in Leinster House is intended
only for the use of members of the Dail and Seanad.
Visitors interested in early printed books will find in
the Worth Library in Steevens* Hospital 21 volumes
printed before the year 1500, 13 of which are from the

DUBLIN LIBRARIES 67
press of Aldus; Colinaeus, Stephonus, Turnebus, and
Elzevir are also represented.
The Central Catholic Library, 74 Merrion Square,
South, contains a unique collection of some 50,000
volumes on every department of knowledge and life with
which religion is, more or less, concerned. It includes a
collection of about 2,000 works on Christian art. Accom
modation for readers and shelf -space for books are ample.
There is a Lending Department, open week-days from 12
noon to 9 p.m. (except Monday — closed all day; Saturday,
open 12 noon to 4 p.m.). Subscribers may have books
posted to them, on request. The Reference Library is open
to the public daily (Sundays included) from 11 a.m. to
10 p.m. Reader's ticket — is.
There is also a Public Newsroom which is open daily
from II a.m. to 7.30 p.m., Sundays 2 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.
In addition the library maintains an Information Bureau,
by which postal enquiries are answered.
There are several branches of the Library in various
parts of the city
Irish Central Library for Students. This library, housed
at 53 Upper Mount Street, Dublin, was established in
1923, by the Carnegie United Kingdom Trust to supple
ment the resources of public libraries and of the libraries
of scientific and cultural organisations, by supplying on
loan specialised books of an educational nature. In 1948
this library (approx. 35,000 volumes) was presented by
the Carnegie United Kingdom Trust as a gift to An
Chomhairle Leabharlanna, the Library Council, in
augurated by the Minister for Local Government, in
accordance with the Public Libraries (Ireland) Act, 1947.
MUNICIPAL LIBRARIES.
There are fourteen public libraries maintained by the
Corporation of Dublin and administered under the control
of a Chief Librarian from a Central Department in Pearse
Street Library (Telephone 61608). The libraries are at
Anglesea Road, Ballsbridge; Blacquiere Bridge, Phibs-
borough; Capel Street; Charieville MaU, North Strand;
Emmet Road, Inchicore; Howth sub-branch; Lower Kevin
Street; Marino Mart, Fairview; Millmount Avenue,

68 DUBLIN
Drumcondra; Pearse Street; Rathmines Road; Ringsend;
Terenure sub-branch; Thomas Street. The library of the
late Sir John T. Gilbert (historian of Dublin), purchased
by the Dublin Corporation, is housed m the Central
Department, Pearse Street Library.

ART GALLERIES
NATIONAL GALLERY.
EASILY accessible from the centre of the city, the
National Gallery is situated on the western side of
Merrion Square — perhaps the most finely proportioned
of Dublin's many eighteenth-century residential squares.
Like most other National Galleries, the Irish National
Gallery was established in the nineteenth century as part
of the world-wide movement to provide education for the
people, which had its origin in the French Revolution.
More specifically, the founding of these galleries resulted
from the organisation of the French royal collections as a
national gallery of France at the Louvre.
The National Gallery was formally opened in 1864
with a nucleus of something over a hundred pictures
which had been collected, for the express purpose of
founding a national gallery, through the enterprise of such
men as William Dargan and George Mulvany, over a
number of years previously. Thus, the enchanting little
School of Giorgione Adoration was purchased, and the
Raphael Cartoons bequeathed, before the Gallery was
opened. Mulvany, the first Director, had a number of dis
tinguished successors, most notably, perhaps, Henry
Doyle (1869- 1 892), the most cultivated member of a
Dublin family of whom "Dickie" Doyle of Punch, and
Henry's nephew, Arthur Conan Doyle, the creator of
Sherlock Holmes, became famous in England; and Hugh
Lane (191 4- 191 5), nephew of Lady Gregory of Abbey
Theatre fame. But it has been the constant endeavour of
the Board of Governors and Guardians to maintain and
enhance the initial high prestige of the National Gallery,
so that to-day it ranks as one of the more important public
collections of paintings of all European schools in any
country. Some choice pictures have come to the Gallery by gift
or bequest, the more munificent donors including Lady
69

70 DUBLIN
Milltown, Lane, Edward Martyn, the Friends of the
National Collections, and Sir Chester Beatty.
It is hardly too much to claim that a comprehensive
study of the Italian Schools of painting may be made at
the Irish National Gallery. There are choice examples of
the fourteenth-century Tuscan Schools, notably a Sienese
St. John Preaching in the Wilderness, at one time attri
buted to Simone Martini and now to Andrea di Bartolo —
though one of the most renowned experts on Italian
painting has said that if it be in fact by Andrea it is the
finest thing he ever did.
Fifteenth-century Florentines include an outstanding
Fra Angelico, The Attempted Martyrdom of Saints
Cosmas and Damian, one of a series that is also represented
at the Louvre, the Munich Altepinakotek and the Ac-
cademia at Florence; a little Madonna and Child, formerly
ascribed to a pupil of Piero della Francesca, but identified
as by Paolo Uccello when it was exhibited at the Four
Masters of the Early Renaissance Exhibition in Florence in
1954; two great cassone battlepieces also by Paolo Uccello;
a Madonna Enthroned with Saints by Zenobio Macchia-
velli, usually regarded as the artists's masterpiece; a
recently acquired Fra Bartolommeo Holy Family, rated by
Fritz Knapp as the "most beautiful" of the artist's works;
and a noble Holy Family with Saint John which Italian
scholarship has identified as an early work by
Michelangelo. The two Signorellis include a small Christ in the House
of Simon the Pharisee, which in quality as in size matches
the little chef d'oeuvre by the same artist at the Louvre.
The moving Perugino Pieta (which once belonged to
Philippe d'Orleans, Regent of France during the minority
of Louis XV) must be reckoned a great masterpiece of
religious art and also of early landscape painting; and in
subtlety of characterisation, as in subtlety of modelling,
the Head of Saint Catherine the Martyr by Correggio
might be ranked as second only to the Saint Anne of
Leonardo da Vinci.
Examples of Venetian painting include the beautiful
Judith of Mantegna; an impressive double Portrait by
Giovanni Bellini that was formerly in the collections of

ART GALLERIES 71
Cardinal Fesch and Paul Delaroche; Titian's superb
Baldassare Castiglione; and important works of Palma
Vecchio, Bassano, Paolo Veronese and Tintoretto.
The later schools of Italian painting are very richly re
presented and include pictures by Magnasco, Castiglione,
Bazzani, G. B. Tiepolo, Longhi, Canaletto, Bellotto and
Guardi. The St. Jerome, by the fifteenth-century French artist,
Frances Nicolas, is a precious specimen of late mediaeval
painting. Less well known is the large-scale Pieta by the
Burgundian School, c. 1480. Of the half-dozen Poussins,
The Marriage of Thetis and Peleus; The Holy Family; and
above all The Entombment are internationally renowned
great masterpieces. There is a lovely "silver" Claude. The
several examples of the School of Watteau include a
Wedding Festivities, which is now attributed to Quillard,
but which used to be, and probably should still be,
ascribed to Watteau himself. There are three works by
Chardin, of which the superbly painted Young Governess
is the best-known. As a study in movement the huge
Milo of Croton by J. L. David is in the nature of a tour
de force; and there is a life-size portrait of Bonaparte as
Emperor from the studio of the same artist. The collec
tions of Rorhantics and Impressionists are being built up.
Sir Chester Beatty's gift of some hundred pictures, made
in 1950, includes several characteristic little chefs d'oeuvre
by Meissonier, a noble Boudin, an unusual and interesting
Corot, and a highly representative group of pictures of the
Barbizon School. Later gifts by Sir Chester Beatty include
a superb water-colour study of the Montagne Sainte'
Victoire by Cezanne.
The collection of Dutch seventeenth-century pictures
is recognised by scholars as including not only many first-
class examples of the works of the greatest masters,
notably Rembrandt, but an unusually exhaustive and
representative selection of the lesser masters.
Of the Spanish collection it has been said that the El
Greco Saint Francis in Ecstasy, the two Zurbarans and the
three Goya portraits would of themselves suffice to estab
lish the reputation of any museum of painting. The fine

72 DUBLIN
St. Gomez is one of the few examples of late mediaeval
painting in Portugal to be seen in a northern picture
gallery. The Flemish "Primitives" are represented most notably
by Gerard David's Christ Saying Farewell to His Mother;
and a Saint Luke Painting the Portrait of the Madonna,
ascribed to Rogier Van der Weyden but probably painted
by the young Hans Membling in the older Master's
studio; and the later Flemings include excellent examples
of the work of Rubens, Van Dyck, Teniers, etc.
The Rhenish, South German and Austrian mediaeval
and Early Renaissance painters are well represented,
notably in portraiture, though the Cranach Judith and
Crucifixion, as also the recently acquired Madonna, call
for special mention as religious pictures. The English col
lection includes no less than ten major works in landscape
and portraiture by Gainsborough; and Whistler, in a
characteristic outburst of enthusiasm, described one of the
Hogarths here as "the most beautiful in the world."
Reynolds and Richard Wilson are also well represented.
in the Irish rooms the works of one of the greatest of
modem portrait-painters, John Butler Yeats (1839-1922),
may be studied, and there are many admirable pictures by
Hone, Osborne, Lavery, Orpen, Tuohy, etc., as well as
examples of the earlier phases of Irish painting.
The National Portrait Gallery in the same building pro
vides a survey of Irish historical personalities over the last
three centuries. There is also a cabinet of drawing and
watercolours. The National Gallery is open to visitors from 10 a.m. to
5 p.m., Monday to Friday; 10 a.m. to i p.m. on Saturday;
and 2 p.m. to 5 p-m. on Sunday.

THE MUNICIPAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART.
The Municipal Gallery of Modern Art is housed in a
very fine Georgian mansion on the north side of Parnell
Square, formerly the residence of Lord Charlemont. The
history of this Gallery — bound up as it is with the enet'
getic life and tragic death of its founder, the remarkable
Sir Hugh Lane — is worth relating.

ART GALLERIES 73
Founded by Sir Hugh Lane.
The Municipal Gallery of Modem Art was founded in
1907. It was chiefly through the exertions and generosity
of Sir Hugh Lane that the idea of a modem Art Gallery
in Dublin became definitely possible. At an exhibition of
Irish Art at the Guildhall, in London, in 1904, of which
Sir Hugh Lane was Honorary Director, many of the
artists exhibiting promised to give a picture towards the
formation of such a gallery. Many more pictures were
offered by collectors; an enthusiastic committee was
formed and sufficient money collected to acquire still
more. The collection thus formed, including Lane's con
tributions, was temporarily hung in Harcourt Street.
In addition to his gifts. Lane had lent to the Gallery
his collection of Continental pictures, and intended to give
most of them to Dublin, provided that a permanent build-
irg to house them was built within a specified number
of years. Later, as no gallery was built, nor any progress
made in arranging for one. Lane took these pictures away
and lent them to the National Gallery in London. He was
drowned in the sinking of the Lusitania in 191 5. and
when his will was read it was found he had added a
codicil leaving his pictures, not to the National Gallery in
London, as he had previously intended, but to the Dublin
Municipal Gallery; but this codicil, lacking the mere legal
technicality of two witnesses, was held to be invalid.
Though there has been much agitation for their retum
from London, the Gallery is still without them.
The present Gallery in Pamell Square was completely
reconstructed and modernised at a total cost of some
;^35,ooo, and opened to the public in 1933 when transfer
of the entire collection in Harcourt Street was completed.
It presents, within its scope, arrangement of rooms, system
of natural and artificial lighting, etc., one of the finest and
most up-to-date galleries in the world. The exterior
measurements are about the same as those of the National
Gallery of Ireland, and the area is twice that of
the Luxemburg Musee — which was Sir Hugh Lane's
ideal. Restraint in decoration and detail is a noticeable
feature of the galleries, each being lined with a low frame
and panelled dado in American and Australian walnut.

74 DUBLIN
The Hurst Seager system, known as top-side natural light
ing, has been adopted throughout. The spectator stands
in shadow, while the pictures are directly illuminated from
roof -light fixed at an angle that, as nearly as circumstances
permit, approaches the vertical. The artificial lighting is
partly concealed and colour corrected, through lights being
installed in such a position that the pictures are illu
minated evenly and without glare. At the end of the
suite, on the ground floor, is the Lane Gallery, exactly
suited to hold the 39 pictures, and still awaiting the day
when a valuable collection of pictures will be returned to
its rightful home.

A Splendid Collection.
But even without what are now known as the "Lane
Pictures," the Dublin Gallery is one of which any city
might be justly proud. It has the distinction of being the
first public gallery in Ireland or Great Britain to possess
a representative group of Corot's work, which includes
the Landscape: with Group of Three Figures, which was
his last work, and was, it is said, painted on his death-bed.
There are also several interesting and characteristic Con
stables. Going through the different rooms in the Gallery,
one notices work by such well-known painters as Fantin-
Latour, Courbet, Harpignies, Diaz, Puvis de Chavannes,
Monet, Monticelli, Mancini, Daumier, Whistler, Sickert,
Wilson, Steer and others, and a group of works by
Augustus John.
The drawing and water-colour rooms contain many
admirable examples of Millet, Brabazon, Segantini, Orpen,
Charles Conder, Cipriani, and Max Beerbohm.
In the portrait gallery there is an interesting collection
of contemporary portraits of well-known Irishmen, in
cluding Michael Davitt, John Redmond, Lord Carson,
Synge, and W. B. Yeats.
Naturally, in a collection of national importance the
work of Irish artists has a place, and the visitor will notice
that their work can hold its own beside the works of
Continental artists. Nathaniel Hone, Sir John Lavery, Sir
William Orpen, Gerald Festus Kelly, Charles Shannon,

ART GALLERIES 75
Mark Fisher, Walter Osborne, Jack Yeats, and George
Russell (JE) deserve attention.
In the picture salons, among more recent acquisitions,
are to be found works by Irish artists: Louis Le Brocquy,
Kathleen Fox, Mainie Jellet, Charles Lamb, Maurice
MacGonigal, James Sleator, and Jack B. Yeats, etc.; and of
foreign Schools: Albertini, Bonnard, Dunoyer de
Segonzac, Picasso, Souverbie, Vlaminck, etc.
In the vestibule and hall are to be seen, among other
interesting works, Auguste Rodin's Age d'Airain, his
L'Homme au Nes Casse, and George Bernard Shaw;
Tolstoi and Kim by Naoum Aronson, and Inis Fail by
Oliver Sheppard, R.H.A. A most interesting piece in the
collection is Epstein's head in bronze of Lady Gregory.
More recent additions to the sculpture group include
a head in bronze of Padraic Colum, by the late Edmond
T. Quinn, and studies in bronze and terra cotta by Mina
Carney. The sculpture hall and foyer is the home of twenty-
four pieces, in bronze, marble, stone, and plaster, the work
and generous gift of that great Irish sculptor, Andrew
O'Connor, who died in Dublin in June, 1941.
The Gallery is under the control of the Dublin Cor
poration. Its title and address: The Municipal Gallery of
Modern Art, Parnell Square, North.
It is open on week'days between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.
(except Thursdays — 10 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.) On Sundays,
September to May inclusive, from 1 1 a.m. to 2 p.m. At
present and until further notice the Gallery closes at dusk
instead of 6 p.m. in the winter season. Open on all
Bank Holidays except Christmas Day and Good Friday.
Admission free.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
THE National Museum of Ireland comprises the Irish
Antiquities, the Art and Industrial, and the Natural
History Divisions, The two first named (together with
the botanical section of the Natural History Division) are
housed in Kildare Street, the third in Merrion Street.
IRISH ANTIQUITIES DIVISION.
The collection of Irish Antiquities owes its origin
primarily to the Royal Irish Academy. The Academy's
collection, to-day the result of two centuries of splendid
effort, was transferred to State custody in 1890. Together
with the large and growing State collection and material
presented by the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland
and other benefactors, it now constitutes one of the most
impressive collections of national antiquities in Europe.
Here we may follow step by step the cultural development
of the people of Ireland, from the far off Stone Age
through the Bronze Age, the Iron Age, the Early Christian
period, and the Middle Ages down to modem times, and
the historical development of the new Ireland. But the
collection is of more than merely national interest. Because
of her position on the Atlantic sea routes Ireland has
seldom been shut off for long from the main stream of
general European life and civilisation. To that life and
civilisation she has more than once made significant con
tributions. Hence the national collection is prized by
foreign scholars for the light it sheds on certain aspects of
general European archaeology. Symbolic of the country's
cultural connections with the outside world is the large
boulder of granite from the Wicklow Hills now placed at
the Museum entrance in Kildare Street. It is inscribed with
the famous labyrinth pattem which can be traced
ultimately to the eastern Mediterranean.
Stone Age, 5000-1800 B.C.
The earliest inhabitants of Ireland were fishers and
76

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 77
hunters who crossed over from Scotland about 6000 B.C.
From north-east Ulster they gradually spread out to
Munster, Leinster and Connacht. About 2500 B.C. agri
culture and stock-raising were introduced by more highly
civilised immigrants who entered the country at various
points on the east and north-east coasts, and great
chambered burial cairns (of Mediterranean ancestry) were
built at Newgrange and other places; they are world
famous. The Stone Age antiquities in the Museum include
stone axes, clubs, scrapers, knives, arrowheads, etc., as
well as pottery and personal ornaments. Items of particular
interest are the flint knife with its original handle of moss,
from the River Bann; six polished axe-heads from Cul-
bane, Co. Derry, together with the stone on which they
were ground; primitive "saddle querns" for grinding corn;
and the enormous stone implements from Portglenone on
the River Bann.
Bronze Age, c. 1800— c. 200 B.C.
Bronze Age Ireland exercised a far-reaching influence
on other countries. The craftsmanship of the metalworkers
was unsurpassed. The splendid collection of gold orna
ments in the Museum testifies not merely to artistic skill
but to great material prosperity as well. It is the second
largest collection of native gold antiquities in the whole
of Europe. Particular attention should be paid to the
"lunulae" or crescent-shaped ornaments of sheet gold.
Some seventy have been found in Ireland, another twenty
abroad, where they bear witness to Ireland's foreign trade
in ancient times. Other splendid examples of the Bronze
Age craftsman's skill are the torques (two from Tara) and
gorgets of gold, the beautiful rapiers and leaf-shaped
swords of bronze, the bronze axes, spear-heads, halberds,
sickles and pins, and the fine series of sepulchral pottery.
In recent years an extremely interesting series of typical
Bronze Age burials has been set up.
The Iron Age, 200 B.C.— A.D. 450.
Antiquities of the prehistoric Iron Age are relatively
rare. They seem to indicate two principal areas of settle
ment, Connacht and north-east Ulster.

78 DUBLIN
Discoveries in the latter region show that the iron-using
settlers there had come from Britain; the Connacht settlers
possibly came from France. The Museum collection of
their antiquities includes swords, spears, pins, brooches,
horsebits, sculptured stones, etc., often beautifully orna
mented with spiral, trumpet and other Celtic decoration.
Pride of place may well be given to the famous gold collar
from Broighter, Co. Derry. With its beautiful Celtic
ornamentation and ingenious locking device, it is an out
standing example of the ancient goldsmith's art.
Early Christian Period, c. A.D. 450 — A.D. 1000.
The Early Christian period is marked by the finest
flowering of Irish art. To this period belong such master
pieces of skill and beauty as the miscalled "Tara" Brooch
(c. 750), found at Bettystown, Co. Meath; and the
Ardagh Chalice, of the same date, perhaps the finest
communion chalice in existence. The beautiful enamels,
gold filigree, and other features of these famous treasures
are best appreciated with the help of a magnifying glass.
Second only to these are the many other precious relics of
this period — brooches, shrines, etc., too numerous to
mention. Middle Ages.
The Viking period is represented by a fine display of
tools, weapons and trading equipment, etc., from the
Norse cemeteries outside Dublin and from other sites. The
latter include a bronze lamp (c. 1000) and a tenth-century
Manx gaming board (yew) from Ballinderry, Co. West-
meath. The close of the Viking wars was followed by a great
artistic revival. Among the treasures of this period that
have survived and are now preserved in the National
Museum it will suffice to mention the Shrine of St. Colm-
cille's Psalter — the Cathach (1062-1098), Shrine of the
Stowe Missal (1023-1052), Shrine of the Bell of St.
Patrick's Will (1091-1105), and the collection of tenth-
twelfth-century croziers. The Cross of Cong (c. 1 1 23) is
the finest processional cross of its time in existence.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 79
The post-Norman antiquities are of very considerable
interest, but have not the artistic merit of the older
treasures. Outstanding examples are the Shrine of St.
Patrick's Tooth (c. 1376) and the processional cross from
Ballylongford, Co. Kerry (fifteenth century).
Folk Collection.
The aim of the Folk Collection is to try to recover a
series of objects illustrating the traditional houses, fur
nishings, occupations, costume, pastimes, etc., of the
people prior to the machine age. The spinning and
weaving, dairying, wood-turning, and fishing exhibits are
well worth study.
Egyptian and Classical Collections, etc.
The collections of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and other
foreign antiquities are small, and only a limited amount
can be exhibited. One of their functions is to provide
comparative materials for students of Irish archaeology.
The Ethnological Collection.
The Division also possesses a fine collection of ethno
logical materials from North and South America, Africa
and the South Seas. Some of the best of the latter were
collected by the famous explorer. Captain Cook.
ART AND INDUSTRIAL DIVISION.
The Art and Industrial Division is devoted to a series
of valuable and interesting collections : Silver; Glass;
Ceramics; Textiles; Furniture; Chinese, Japanese and
Indian Art; Coins and Medals; Postage Stamps; Costume
and Uniforms, etc. The Division also includes the Irish
Historical and the 1916-1921 exhibitions, which have now
been built up into extensive collections. These were con
siderably expanded in connection with the twenty-fifth
anniversary of Easter Week, 1916.
NATURAL HISTORY DIVISION.
The Botanical Section illustrates the principal vegetable
products in use to-day. Other features are the Herbarium

8o DUBLIN
(open to approved students) with more than 180,000
specimens, a collection of the flowering plants of Co.
Dublin, and a series of Biblical plants.
The Zoological Section (Merrion Street), contains two
main collections. The Irish collection aims at showing at
least one specimen of every animal found in Ireland or
Irish waters. Conspicuous exhibits are the remains of the
famous extinct Irish Giant Deer, and of the Reindeer,
Bear, Wolf, Hyaena, Arctic Fox, and extinct Mammoth
which once roamed the land. There is also a very fine
collection of Irish birds with their nests and eggs, many
of them shown in their natural settings.
The General Collections contain a systematic collection
of Mammals, Birds, Reptiles, Fishes, Worms, "Shell
fishes," Spiders, Insects, Corals, Sea-anemones, and
Sponges. The lower marine animals are illustrated by the
best collection of Blaschke glass models in Europe. The
reference collections (accessible to approved students)
contain upwards of 220,000 specimens.
The Museum Buildings are open to the public on week
days and bank holidays from, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and on
Sundays from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Admission free.
The Dublin Civic Museum at the City Assembly
House, South William Street, opened in 1953, contains a
permanent collection of exhibits of antiquarian and
historical interest pertaining to Dublin. It includes news
papers and cuttings, pictures, prints, maps, coins, etc.
Open to the public (free) from 11 a.m. to i p.m. and
2.30 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day except Thursday (11 a.m.
to I p.m.) and Sunday (2 p.m. to 5 p.m.).

LEARNED SOCIETIES

The Ro/al Dublin Society.
DUBLIN has many organisations devoted to the
promotion of learning, scientific research and other
branches of culture. Among these institutions is the Royal
Dublin Society. Founded in 1731, for the advancement of
Agriculture, Industry, Science and Art, it is the oldest
society of its kind in these islands. Lord Chesterfield, in
a letter of May, 1747, wrote that its efforts had "done
more good to Ireland with regard to arts and industry
than all the laws that could have been formed." Since its
foundation the Royal Dublin Society has played an impor
tant part in the industrial, commercial and cultural life
of the country.
To promote interest in agricultural and horse-breeding,
three shows are held each year. In March, there is a show
of pure-bred bulls. Later comes the Spring Show, at
which all classes of livestock, produce and agricultural
machinery are exhibited. Every progressive farmer attends
the Spring Show, which has inspired many important de
velopments in the science of agriculture. The great Horse
Show, the greatest function of Dublin's social calendar
and an event of intemational importance in the world of
sport, is held during the first week of August. It attracts
visitors and buyers of bloodstock from all parts of the
world. The cultural activities of the society are equally
important. For the use of its members, numbering several
thousands, a fine library is maintained. Scientific papers
are read before a monthly meeting and afterwards
published in the Scientific Proceedings of the Society.
Scientific lectures of a popular character are also provided.
There are recitals of chamber music, and members are
given the opportunity of hearing various celebrated singers
and players. There is usually some special event, such as
the visit of a famous orchestra, each year.
81

82 DUBLIN
The Royal Dublin Society celebrated its bi-centenary
in June, 1931. To its public-spirited efforts, Dublin owes
its National Library, National Art Gallery, Botanic
Gardens and, to some extent, the National Museum. The
society has persevered through more than two hundred
years, staunchly upholding its original ideals, and is to-day
a vital force in the life of the country.
The Royal Irish Academy.
Towards the end of the eighteenth century there were
in Trinity College, Dublin, two small societies called the
Paleosophers and the Neosophers. In 1785 the members
of these two scholarly clubs were granted a patent to form
the Royal Irish Academy, with a view to promoting the
study of Science, Polite Literature and Antiquities. Its
first President was Lord Charlemont, at whose house the
Academy held its early meetings. The next home of the
Academy was in Grafton Street, but in 1852 it moved to
Dawson Street, where it is still housed.
Founded at a period when the old native culture of
Ireland had fallen to its lowest ebb, the Royal Irish
Academy has done invaluable work in preserving the
literary and artistic relics of that culture. It formed a great
collection of Irish antiquities, which was transferred in
1890 to the National Museum. The work of its registration
and care, from its inception until the transfer, was under
taken and financed by the Academy. But for the foresight
and generosity of its early members, the National Museum
would be without its unique collection of gold ornaments.
(The fine Library of the Academy, with its collection of
Irish manuscripts, has been referred to elsewhere.)
The Royal Irish Academy publications take a leading
place among those of the learned societies of Europe. The
many volumes of its Transactions and Proceedings contain
papers on Science, Literature, History and Archaeology.
A number of important investigations in physical
science and natural history have been undertaken on the
initiative of the Academy. In 1887 a magnetic observatory
was established at Valentia, Co. Kerry, where regular ob
servations have been made. A botanical survey of the
mountains, rivers and lakes was also made, and the Clare

LEARNED SOCIETIES 83
Island survey (carried out in 1 909-1 1) is perhaps the most
complete study of the fauna and flora of a defined and
limited area which has yet appeared.
Dublin has few more just sources of pride than the long
list of famous scientists and scholars whose work is en
shrined in the archives of the Royal Irish Academy.
Figures renowned in literature and in every branch of
scientific enquiry have been among its members, and the
traditions of a century and a half of careful scholarship
are still worthily maintained.
Royal Society of Antiquaries.
Another institution which has done excellent service to
Irish historical research is the Royal Society of Antiquaries,
founded in 1849. It has premises at 63 Merrion Square,
and meetings are held in Dublin and the provinces. Papers
on historical and archaeological subjects are read and
objects of antiquarian interest exhibited. The Journal of
the Society, containing the proceedings and various
papers, is of much interest.
Historical Society, Trinity College.
Founded in 1770, this is the oldest University Debating
Society in Ireland or Great Britain. It has been in existence
forty-five years longer than the Cambridge Union and
fifty-six years longer than the Oxford Union. Indeed the
Historical Society might claim a still greater antiquity,
for it is the direct successor of two earlier bodies — The
Club, founded by Edmund Burke 1747, and the Historical
Club, founded in 1753 by Barry Yelverton, afterwards
Lord Avonmore. Among the records of the Historical
Society is the minute-book of The Club, a considerable
part of which is in Burke's handwriting.
Throughout its long history, the Society has been a
nursery of statesmen, lawyers and divines. Among its
members have been many of the most remarkable per
sonalities in Irish history. Theobald Wolfe Tone was
Auditor in 1785, and another prominent member of the
Society at that time was Charles Kendal Bushe, afterwards
Lord Chief Justice and famous for his great speech against
the Act of Union, In 1797. Robert Emmet and Thomas

84 DUBLIN
Moore joined the Historical Society and became the
leaders of the Radical Party in debate. From the first,
Emmet displayed that talent for oratory which was to find
such magnificent expression six years later in his immortal
speech from the dock.
Thomas Davis, the poet of the "Young Ireland" move
ment, was Auditor of the Society from 1838 to 1840.
Outstanding figures in the debates at that period were
Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, the novelist, and Isaac Butt,
afterwards leader of the Irish Party at Westminster.
Lecky, the historian, won the Oratory Medal in 1858.
Few were aware of his talent as a speaker, and there is a
tradition that his maiden speech amazed the Society.
In more recent years, many famous men have taken
a leading part in the activities of the Historical Society
— among them Bram Stoker, author of Dracula, Edward
Carson, the great lawyer and politician, and Douglas
Hyde, father of the Irish Language Revival movement
and first President of Ireland.
The Society meets for debate in the Graduates'
Memorial Building, Trinity College, at 8 o'clock on each
Wednesday evening from November to June, except for
a short recess at Christmas and Easter.
Literary and Historical Society, University College.
The Literary, Historical and Aesthetical Society was
formed in 1855 at a meeting presided over by Father John
Henry Newman (afterwards Cardinal Newman), Rector
of the Catholic University. It was founded as a debating
society for the students of the new university, and has
been associated with many prominent figures in the in
tellectual and political history of modem Ireland, In 1873,
John Dillon, afterwards a leading member of the Irish
Party at Westminster, was elected Auditor. (Sir) Thomas
Maloney, last Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, joined the
Society in 1886. A tremendous contest for the Auditor-
ship in 1897 was won by Francis Sheehy Skeffington, who
read his inaugural address on the subject of "Realism in
Fiction." The name of his defeated opponent was James
Joyce. In the following year the Auditorship was held by
Tom Kettle, afterwards famous as politician, essayist, and

LEARNED SOCIETIES

85

one of Dublin's most brilliant speakers. Among later
Auditors were several men who played influential roles
in the struggle for Irish freedom and in the development
of the Irish Free State.

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS
The Old Parliament House.
THE Parliament House (now the Bank of Ireland) in
College Green was the first of the series of great
public buildings erected in Dublin during the eighteenth
century. It stands on the site formerly occupied by
Chichester House, the residence of Sir Arthur Chichester,
who held the post of Viceroy from 1604 to 161 5. After
his death it became the residence of the Lord Chief Justice,
and it was to Chichester House that a drunken informer
brought news of the coming rising on an October evening
in 1 64 1. The first parliament after the Restoration met
here, and parliaments continued to meet in Chichester
House from time to time.
In 1729 the present structure was commenced, the de
signer being Sir Edward Lovat Pearce, Surveyor-General
of Ireland. As it now stands, the building embodies two
styles; it is justly regarded as one of the finest specimens
of eighteenth-century architecture. The receding front,
with its finely grouped Ionic columns, achieves an effect
of rare dignity and splendour. The portico towards West
moreland Street is of the Corinthian order, and was
erected in 1785 after the design of James Gandon. A
screen wall connects it with the main building. The
western portico and screen wall were added between 1 792
and 1794.
Few buildings are richer in historical associations than
the "old house in College Green." During the most
brilliant period in Dublin's history it was a focus of social
and political interest. Its walls echoed the speeches of men
whose names were renowned in an age of orators. As the
struggle for constitutional independence went on the
leaders of the Opposition — Grattan, Flood, Hussey
Burgh, Philpot Curran — became popular idols. Verbatim
reports of the debates were printed and eagerly read. In
1753 there were joyful demonstrations when the Irish
Pariiament reserved to itself the right to dispose of surplus
86

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 87
revenue. In 1782 vast crowds watched Lord Charlemont's
armed Volunteers parade in College Green, while Grattan
in the Parliament House demanded and obtained the
removal of restrictions on Irish trade. Twelve months
later, when Grattan had won independence for the Irish
Parliament, the Commons Chamber rang with his joyful
apostrophe: "Spirit of Swiftl Spirit of Molyneux! your
genius has prevailed! Ireland is now a nation."
The most dramatic scene ever enacted within the
Parliament House was the passage of the Act of Union in
1800. The British Government had secured a majority
in favour of the measure by resorting to bribery on a huge
scale. But there were many who opposed it with passionate
eloquence. Grattan, an ailing man, came to the House
clad in his old Volunteer uniform and leaning on the
shoulders of two friends. In a splendid speech he took
leave of the independent parliament which he had
created: "Yet I do not give up my country — I see her in
a swoon, but she is not dead — though in her tomb she
lies helpless and motionless, there is on her lips a spirit of
life and on her cheek a glow of beauty."
One hundred and twenty-two years later the green-clad
troops of the new Irish Free State were marching past the
"old house in College Green."
The Parliament House has been the Bank of Ireland
since 1804. Considerable alterations were made in the
interior, and the Cash Office of the Bank now occupies the
former Commons Chamber. The House of Lords, which
remains practically unchanged, is now used as the Board
Room. Some fine wood-carving is to be seen around the
walls and the fireplaces of Kilkenny marble are worthy
of notice. There are two pieces of tapestry worked in
Dublin and hung there in 1734. One represents the Battle
of the Boyne, and the other depicts King James II and
Sarsfield directing operations at the Siege of Derry. The
chairs and the large mahogany table also date from the
period when the Irish peers assembled here.
Any liveried attendant at the Bank will conduct visitors
through the premises, free of charge, during usual Bank
hours.

88 DUBLIN
Trinity College.
On the east side of College Green is the impressive
Corinthian facade of Trinity College, more than 300 feet
long and 65 feet in height. This ancient seat of leaming
was described at its foundation as the "College of the
Holy and Undivided Trinity near Dublin." It is now
situated in the very heart of the city.
The College was founded in 1591, but no trace of the
original Elizabethan stmcture now remains. A range of
red brick buildings on the east side of the Library Square
is the oldest surviving block. It was erected in 1722, but
the top storey was reconstructed towards the end of the
last century. The great facade towards College Green was
built in 1759 and, though sometimes attributed to Sir
William Chambers, is from the designs of Keene and
Saunders. Chambers, however, designed the Examination
Hall (1787) and the Chapel, which is remarkable for its
fine proportions and the beauty of the stalls, gallery and
panelling. In the Examination Hall may be seen a number
of full-length portraits, including those of Ussher, one of
the earliest Fellows, Bishop Berkeley, Dean Swift,
Edmund Burke and Queen Elizabeth, foundress of the
university. Here also may be seen the great chandelier
which formerly adorned the Irish House of Commons.
To the right of the Campanile stands the Library, 1
magnificent building which was completed in 1732. There
are three stories, surmounted by a rich CorintHan en
tablature, crowned with a balustrade. The interior of the
Library is singularly impressive and is acknowledged to be
one of the finest rooms of its kind in Europe. The per
spective is splendid, and the proportions are so well
balanced that the room — notwithstanding its great
length of 240 feet — gives no impression of narrowness.
White marble busts of famous scholars and writers adorn
the room. Homer, Socrates, Plato, Shakespeare, Milton,
Bacon and Swift being among those represented. The
numerous treasures of the Library have been described
elsewhere in this book.
Between the Library and the Examination Hall stands
the Hall of Honour, designed by Sir Thomas Deane, and
erected as a memorial to four hundred and sixty-five

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 89
members of the college who fell in the first Great War.
The Graduates' Memorial Building, designed by Sir T.
Drew, was erected on the north side of the Library Square
in 1899 to commemorate the tercentenary of the college.
The New Square (1838-44) is mainly residential. At the
north-west comer stands the Printing House (1726-34),
designed by Cassels in the style of a Doric temple. On
the opposite side of the Square is the Museum Building,
also known as the Schools, a striking edifice designed
by Messrs. Deane and Woodward and erected in 1857.
The remarkable stone carving is by the famous O'Shea
brothers, whose work may also be seen on the exterior of
the Kildare Street Club. The Museum Building now
houses the Geological Museum and the Lecky Library,
besides providing lecture rooms for the Schools of En
gineering, Divinty and Law. The Moyne Institute of
Preventive and Social Medicine contains the department
of Bacteriology and Social Medicine. The building was
presented and the Institute founded in 1952 by the
descendants of the first Lord Moyne, who was assassinated
in Egypt during World War II.
Beyond the fine Park — ¦ first laid out and planted in
1722 — lie the scientific departments of the university:
The Physics Laboratory (1906), the Botanical Laboratory
(1907) and the Medical School Buildings (1876-1901).
Near the college, and facing Grafton Street, is the Pro
vost's House. It was erected in 1760 and is believed to be
a copy of a residence built by General Wade in Piccadilly
from designs by the Earl of Burlington.
The Custom House.
On the northern bank of the Liffey — between
O'Connell Bridge and the sea — stands the Custom
House, which was completed in 1791 from designs by
James Gandon, the most gifted architect that ever worked
in Ireland. It is Dublin's finest public edifice, and must
rank as one of the noblest buildings in Europe.
The Custom House is a quadrangular building, 375
feet by 205 feet, exhibiting four fronts. The main (south)
front which faces the river is composed of pavilions at
each end, joined by arcades to a central portico of four

90 DUBLIN
Doric columns. In the tympanum is an alto-relievo repre
senting Hibemia and Britannia embracing amid various
symbols of peace and plenty. The attic storey is adorned
by allegorical statues of Navigation, Commerce, Industry
and Wealth; over the arches are symbolic heads represent
ing various Irish rivers. The pavilions at each end are
decorated with the arms of Ireland, beautifully executed.
From the centre rises a superbly graceful dome, sur
mounted by a statue of Hope, sixteen feet in height.
Viewed from the opposite bank of the river, the total
effect is one of unmatched grandeur and spaciousness.
The north front has also a central portico of four
columns. On the entablature, over the columns, are statues
representing Europe, Asia, Africa and America. This front
may best be viewed from Beresford Place. The east and
west sides, though somewhat similar in design, are less
ornate. It will be noticed that the south front is entirely
of Portland Stone, while the other three sides are of
mountain granite.
The erection of the Loop-Line Railway Bridge has
greatly impaired Dublin's seaward vista which gained so
much of its distinction from Gandon's masterpiece. Never-
the less, an excellent view of the building can be obtained
from any point on the southern quays and east of the
bridge. The Custom House was burned to a shell when Irish
forces set fire to the building on 25th May, 1921. The
work of restoration, however, has been splendidly carried
out and the present building retains all the beauty of the
original conception.
Aras Mhic Dhiarmada.
Officially opened in October, 1953, this ultra-modem
building, which cost over ;^ 1,000,000 to erect, houses the
CLE. provincial bus terminal and the offices of the
Department of Social Welfare. It is called after Sean
MacDermott, the 19 16 leader and one of the signatories
of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Containing
shops, restaurants, bar and an underground cinema the
main public entrance is in Store Street West.
The building is L-shaped in design with the departure

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 91
and arrival bays situated at the junction of the two wings.
Faced with Portland stone and red-brick, profusely de
corated with intricate mosaic patterns it stands six storeys
high and adjoins James Gandon's celebrated Custom
House. From its originality of design, and choice of site, it is
both internally and externally a unique addition to
Dublin's architectural beauty.

The Castle.
Dublin Castle was built between 1208 and 1220; it
stands on the high ground west of Dame Street, where
the Danes had erected a fortress some four centuries
earlier. The Castle was the nucleus around which the city
slowly grew, and those parts of the original building
which are still in existence represent (next to the cathed
rals) the oldest surviving architecture in Dublin, It was
formerly a rectangular fortress with a tower at each angle.
Of the old Norman building, the largest visible remains
are the Record Tower (see below) and portion of a curtain
wall. The area enclosed by the original walls was roughly
that now known as the Upper Castle Yard, a quadrangle
280 feet long by 130 feet broad.
Along the southern side of the enclosure are the State
Apartments, formerly the official residence of the English
viceroys. Externally these buildings are unimpressive, but
the interiors display considerable luxury and refinement.
The Throne Room has a remarkable curved ceiling, and
here also may be seen a canopied throne more than two
hundred years old and some wall medallions by Angelica
Kauffmann. Most impressive of the apartments is St.
Patrick's Hall, designed by Lord Chesterfield during his
term of office. It is a noble room, 82 feet long by 41 feet
broad, with its lofty panelled ceiling decorated by three
paintings. In the centre panel is George III, surrounded
ijy various allegorical figures. The other subjects treated
are the conversion of the Irish by St. Patrick, and King
Henry II receiving the homage of the Irish chieftains.
During the British occupation this hall was used for
various State functions. In June, 1938, it was the scene of

92 DUBLIN
the installation of Dr. Douglas Hyde as first President of
Ireland. At the south-western corner of the enclosure is the
Bermingham Tower, from which Red Hugh O'Donnell
made his historic escape on Christmas Eve, 1592. This
tower was rebuilt in 1777, having been damaged by an
explosion. Only the sloping base of the original structure
remains, hidden by later buildings. The little building
which now houses the Genealogical Office and Heraldic
Museum is crowned by a graceful clock tower: the Bed
ford Tower, erected on the now hidden remains of one
of the towers which flanked the gate of the mediaeval
castle. In 1943 the Office of the Ulster King of Arms was
transferred to the Irish Government and re-named the
Genealogical Office. Incorporated with it is the Heraldic
Museum; searches for armorial bearings and family pedi
grees are undertaken by the staff for specified fees.
An archway leads into the Lower Castle Yard, where
the chief points of interest are the Record Tower
(formerly the Wardrobe Tower) and the Church of the
Most Holy Trinity. The massive Record Tower provides
a fine example of mediaeval fortification. It was the south
eastern extremity of the old castle. In 1813 the upper
storey was rebuilt and the embattled parapet added. This
tower houses the State Paper Office, which is a repository
of interesting historical documents. The Record Tower
was used in the seventeenth century as a base for artillery.
It was called the Wardrobe Tower in the eighteenth
century, when it was used to house the Viceregal ward
robe, jewels, etc.
The Church of the Most Holy Trinity (formerly the
Chapel Royal), is a notable Irish limestone stracture de'
signed by Francis Johnston. A feature of the interior is
the splendid Irish oak carving. The middle portion of the
east window was presented by Lord Whitworth, a former
viceroy, and is believed to date from the fourteenth cen
tury. Its antiquity is evidenced by the archaic style of the
figures and the soft, rich colouring of the glass. The chapel
IS decorated externally with carved heads, over ninety in
number, representing the sovereigns of Britain and other
historical figures. Over the east door are shown St Patrick

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 93
and Brian Boru, while the still more curious juxtaposition
of St. Peter and Dean Swift is observed above the north
door. The church came into Catholic ownership in 1943.
The following are the hours of admission : — The
Castle (free), week'days, 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays
9.30 d.»n. to I p.m. State Apartments (6d), Usual
visiting hours 10 a.m., 12 noon and 4 p.m. Guide
will conduct visitors. HERALDIC MuSEUM (free), week'
days 10 a.m. to i p.m. and 2.15 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Satur'
days 10 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. Guide will conduct visitors.
Church of the Most Holy Trinity (free). Mass each
morning at 9 a.m. Open to visitors, 9.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.
and 1.45 p.m. to 6 p.m, on week'days; 10 a.m. to 12.30
p.m. on Sundays.
The City Hall.
Adjoining the Castle is the City Hall (formerly the
Royal Exchange), erected in 1769-79. It stands on the site
of the old Damas Gate, the eastem entrance to the ancient
walled city, and its foundations are laid on a rock which
extends beneath Parliament Street. In earlier times an
out-crop of this rock lay across the muddy bottom of the
Liffey and was given the name of "Standfast Dick."
The City Hall is a square, heavy-looking building in
the Corinthian style, designed by Thomas Cooley. There
are three fronts of Portland stone, the principal front
having a portico of six columns. The interior is designed
as a circle within a square. Fluted pillars support an en
tablature surmounted by a dome-shaped roof. In the
central Hall is a number of statues, including George III
by Van Nost; Lucas (Dublin member of the pre-Union
Parliament) by Smith; Henry Grattan by Chantrey.
There are also two statues by Hogan, one of Daniel
O'Connell, the other of Drummond, former Under-
Secretary for Ireland.
In the Muniment Room may be seen the documentary
records of the Corporation. There are 102 Royal Charters,
including the original Charter of 1171 by which Dublin
was granted to the men of Bristol. Other objects of great
interest are the mace and sword of the city and the
Assembly Rolls of the Corporation.

94 DUBLIN
Meetings of the Dublin Corporation are held in the
City Hall, which is the headquarters of municipal
government. The Four Courts.
On the northern quays, between Father Mathew Bridge
and Richmond Bridge, stands the Four Courts. This fine
building dates (like the Custom House) from the period
of "Grattan's Parliament." The building was commenced
in 1785 from designs by James Gandon. Thomas Cooley
had succeeded in finishing the drawings for a portion of
the building but on his death Gandon was commissioned
to complete the plans. This he did, incorporating but
little of Cooley's work.
The Four Courts is a magnificent pile with a frontage
of 450 feet, and consists of a centre flanked by squares
recessed from the front, the continuity being preserved
by arcades of rusticated masonary. A portico of six
Corinthian columns supports an entablature adorned by
a statue of Moses, with the figures of Justice and Mercy
on either side. At the angles are representations of Wisdom
and Authority. Above the circular central hall rises a
massive dome 64 feet in diameter, imparting to the whole
a superb effect of dignity.
Like many of Dublin's finest buildings, the Four Courts
suffered the ravages of war. During the civil strife which
followed the Anglo-Irish Treaty this magnificent edifice
was bombarded and the interior destroyed. An irreparable
loss was the destruction of the Public Record Office ad
joining the Four Courts. Priceless legal and historical
documents were lost, including the complete records of
the Irish Parliament, the original wills of every Irish
testator from the sixteenth century, and the registers of
hundreds of Irish parishes.
The Four Courts has been excellently restored and is
once again the home of the Irish Law Courts.
The Royal Hospital.
Excepting the cathedrals and the Castle, the Royal
Hospital at Kilmainham is the oldest public building in
Dublin. It was built in 1680-82, during the vice-royalty

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 95
of James Butler "the Great Duke of Ormond," as a
hospital for old soldiers.
An Irish saint named Maignend established a church
here in early times, and the name Kilmainham means
"Maignend's Church." After the Norman invasion the
lands of Kilmainham were granted to the Knights Hospi
tallers, a powerful order which was semi-monastic and
semi-military. The Hospitallers were suppressed by
Henry VIII in 1541, and their buildings at Kilmainham
were sometimes used as a residence by the viceroys of
Elizabeth and James I.
In 1680 Ormond, at the behest of Charles 11, undertook
the erection of a hospital (or place of retreat) for veteran
soldiers. The new establishment, called the Royal
Hospital, was founded on the site of the derelict Kil
mainham Priory. Although long believed to be the work
of Wren, this fine building was designed by Sir William
Robinson, Surveyor-General of Ireland. It is an edifice of
two storeys, in the form of a quadrangle 306 feet long
and 288 feet broad. From the centre of one fajade rises a
graceful tower; a picturesque and unusual effect is also
given by the dormer windows.
The most noteworthy room is the spacious and well-
proportioned Hall, perhaps the finest interior in Dublin.
Great beams support its roof and some beautiful carved
oak adorns the walls. There are also some portraits, de
picting William III and his Queen Mary, Archbishop
Marsh, Ormond (founder of the Hospital) and Charles II.
The Chapel is remarkable for its wood carving, which
has been attributed to the celebrated Grinling Gibbons;
it is in fact the work of James Tabary, a Frenchman
resident in Dublin at the time (c. 1685). A magnificent
stucco ceiling (restored 1902-3) is a feature of great
interest. Some ancient stained glass may be seen in the
upper section of the east window, which is the only sur
viving remnant of the former Priory.
In recent times the Royal Hospital was occupied by the
Headquarters staff of the Garda Siochana (Irish Police
Force), until the building, having been declared unsafe,
was vacated in 1950.

96 DUBLIN
Opposite the west entrance to the Royal Hospital is
Kilmainham Prison, where generations of Irish patriots
were incarcerated, hiere the leaders of the Rising of Easter
Week, 1916, were executed. It was recently decided to
adapt the jail as a historical museum and a small memorial
park. The Catholic Pro-Cathedral.
The imposing edifice in the Grecian-Doric style is
situated in Marlborough Street, within two minutes'
walk from the Nelson Pillar. It was completed between
1 81 5 and 1825 from designs by John Sweetman, a native
of County Dublin. The building stands on a raised plat
form and has a portico of six Doric columns which support
an entablature surmounted by massive statues of the
Blessed Virgin Mary, St. Patrick, and St. Laurence
O'Toole, the patron saint of Dublin. It may be remarked
that the portico is copied from the Temple of Theseus in
Athens, and the interior modelled on the Church of St.
Phillippe du Roule in Paris. The double row of Doric
columns in the aisles somewhat impairs the perspective of
the interior.
There is a beautiful altar in white marble by Tumerelli,
besides two smaller altars which are much admired. The
stained-glass window behind the High Altar is particularly
worthy of notice. A deservedly famous institution is the
Palestrina Choir, founded by the late Edward Martyn, a
wealthy County Galway landowner .
Masses are celebrated every half 'hour from 7 a.m. to
12 noon on Sundays.
The General Post Office.
The General Post Office on the west side of O'Connell
Street is an extensive granite building, which was com
pleted in 1 81 8 from designs by Francis Johnston. Its most
impressive feature is the grand Ionic portico, eighty feet
wide, of six fluted columns. The pediment is surmounted
by statues representing Hibemia, Mercury and Fidelity.
With the exception of the portico, which is of Portland
Stone, the entire building is of mountain granite.

hcL/uhUn

... a short pictorial survey of some of
the attractions the city and county offer
to sportsmen, sightseers, historians and
literati.

The 1916 Memorial
General Post Office.

1. Hurling in Croke Park.
2. Yachting, popular sport
in Dublin Bay.
3. Killiney — one of the 27
clubs in Dublin city and
county. 7. Heading for the Dublin
Mountains.

4. Phoenix Park racecourse.i

5. Fishing on the Liffey at j
Lucan.
6. Dublin Horse Show.

,%.¦», ^'.

1. O'Connell Bridge and
Butt Bridge.

2. St. Stephen's Green
Park.

3. Zoological Gardens.

4. Botanic Gardens.

5. Phoenix Park {Wel
lington Monument).

1. General Post Office.
2. Statue of Daniel O'Connell and O'Connell
Street.
3. St. Patrick's Cathedral.
4. Entrance to Dublin Castle.
5. Strongbow's tomb, Christ Church Cathedral.

JAMES CLARENCE
MANGAN

GEORGE BERNARD
SHAW

DEAN SWIFT

I r^ r\jK.x .^
I ft DRAMATIST \ "
/ _ WFT \
i*\ OSCAR WILDE ,^

KZjE:.^,_.m

1. Marsh's Library.
2. National Library.
3. Trinity College Library.
4. Open air book stalls on the quays.
.5. Two pages from the Book of Kells (Trinity
Collegeh

1. The River Liffey at night.

2. Irish dancing in St. Stephen's Green,

3. Pipers in St. Stephen's
Green.

4. A Dublin ballroom.

3. The Gate Theatre
("Countess Cathleen"
by W. B. \ mis).

6. The Abbey Theatre
C'Juno and the Pay-
cock" by S. O'Casey).

1. Georgian houses, Fitzwilliam Square.

2 Georgian doorway.

3. The Busaras,
Store Street.

4. The Custom House.

5. The Four Courts.

6 The Casino, Marino.

%r/ ,

1^''

1/

L--«r-

1, Dan Laoghaire Harbo

2 St. Doulagh's Church,
Malahide.
3. The River Liffey at Lucan.
4. Killiney Bay.
5. Ireland's Eye from Howth.
6. The Pine Forest.

W^'^-

1. Fruit seller at Nelson Pillar.
2. Sunday morning bird market.
3. Familiar figure along
Dublin's quays.
4. A member of the Garda
Siochana.

NOTABLE PUBLIC BUILDINGS 97
During the Insurrection of 1916 various strategic points
in the city were occupied by the Irish volunteers, and the
General Post Office became their headquartres. Here the
Irish tricolour was hoisted and the Republic proclaimed.
During a week of fighting the General Post Office was
shelled by a gunboat anchored in the Liffey. When fire
broke out the e arrison was forced to evacuate the building,
which was completely gutted.
The work of rebuilding was admirably done, and the
interior of the present central hall is most impressive. On
a marble plinth stands a monument to the men who died
here in 1916. It is a bronze statue of the dying Cuchulainn,
a mythical hero of prehistoric Ireland, and is the work of
the Irish sculptor, Oliver Sheppard, R.H.A. The General
Post Office now houses the offices of the Department of
Post and Telegraphs.
The Mansion House.
In Dawson Street is the Mansion House, a fine building
in the Queen Anne style. Joshua Dawson (after whom the
street is named) sold the house to the Corporation for
;^3,5oo and since 171 5 it has been the official residence of
the Lord Mayors of Dublin. The Mansion House figures
largely in the history of the War of Independence. Among
the many historic events which took place in it were the
adoption of the Declaration of Independence, in January,
1919, and the signing of the Truce which ended Anglo-
Irish hostilities in July, 1921.

PARKS AND GARDENS
Phoenix Park.
Dublin is well provided with open spaces, the greatest
being the spacious and beautiful Phoenix Park. It is
one of the finest public parks in the world. With a cir-
cuference of seven miles, it covers 1,760 acres and includes
the Zoological Gardens, People's Gardens, and grounds
for hurling, football, polo and cricket. The Park is also
famous as a venue of intemational motor-racing. Adjoin
ing it on the north side is the Phoenix Park Racecourse.
Lord Chesterfield, who first opened the park to the
public, erected a pillar surmounted by an effigy of a
phoenix in the centre of the park. The name "Phoenix,"
however, has no connection with the fabulous bird, but
is derived from an Irish word Fionti'Uisce, which means
"clear water." Phoenix Park originally belonged to the
Knights Hospitallers of Kilmainham, but the lands came
into the possession of the Crown after the Reformation.
During the reign of Charles II the area was enclosed as
a deer park, and was sometimes used as a hawking ground
by subsequent viceroys. One of them. Lord Chesterfield,
considerably improved the park, and in 1747 threw it
open to the public. Since then it has been the great
pleasure-ground of the citizens, and one of Dublin's chief
glories. The main entrance is at the end of Parkgate Street, not
far from the railway'Station at Kingsbridge. From the
gateway a great tree-lined road runs, in a straight line, to
the Castleknock Gate, three miles away. On the right as
one enters may be seen the People's Gardens. The beauti
fully designed rock and flower gardens and the artificial
lake combine to form a masterpiece of landscape garden
ing. This is a favourite resort of garden lovers at all seasons
of the year.
On the left is the space known as the "Fifteen Acres"
— it contains about two hundred. Many city clubs have
their playing-fields here, but two centuries ago the

PARKS AND GARDENS 99
"Fifteen Acres" witnessed sterner contests, for it was the
recognised duelling-ground of eighteenth-century Dublin.
Here in the grey dawn — after hot words in Daly's Club
or the Pariiament House — Provosts of Trinity, political
leaders, young blades of the town, shot or thrust at one
another. To the right of the main road may be seen the
unimposing fagade of Aras an Uachtardin, the official
residence of the President of Ireland (formerly the Vice
regal Lodge). On the main thoroughfare stands a fine
equestrian statue of Lord Gough, by Foley and Brock. An
interesting fact about the statue is that it was cast from
cannons captured under Lord Cough's command. To the
left of the main roadway towers the massive Wellington
Monument, an obelisk 205 feet in height, erected in 181 7
at a cost of ^^20,000.
It will be noticed that the deer in the park are very
tame. Tuming left off the main road, and going towards
the "Furry Glen," one may see them standing in groups
under the trees. The "Furry Glen" is a deep hollow lined
on either side with furze bushes and hawthorn trees. From
the road above the glen there is a magnificent view of
the Dublin mountains and the upper Liffey.
Other objects of interest in Phoenix Park are the
Magazine Fort, the Offices of the Ordnance Survey De
partment, the American Embassy (residence), and the
huge depot and headquarters of the Garda Siochana (Irish
Police Force.

The Zoological Gardens.
On the right of the main road through the Phoenix
Park are the Zoological Gardens, which should be visited.
The Royal Zoological Society of Ireland was founded in
1830, and the Dublin Zoo is one of the oldest in the
world, having been preceded only by those of Paris and
London. It is noted for its success in breeding lions, and
cubs from Dublin are eagerly purchased by Zoological
Societies in many countries. Lion breeding commenced in
1854, and more than 500 cubs have been bom in the
Gardens. The outdoor barless Lion Arena is a noteworthy

loo DUBLIN
feature. For the youngsters there are pony-traps, riding
ponies, elephant rides and a special "Children's Comer."
Open week'days 9.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer; to sun'
set in winter. Admission: adults 25., children (under 13)
IS., every day except Saturday, when prices are is. 6d.
and 6d. respectively. During the summer months the
Gardens remain open on Wesdnesday evenings until 9
p.m. Botanic Gardens.
Also on thfe north side of the city, near Glasnevin
Cemetery, are the remarkable Botanic Gardens. The estate
on which they stand was purchased from the family of
Thomas Tickell, the poet, by the Royal Dublin Society
towards the end of the eighteenth century. The Gardens,
which cover fifty acres, were founded in 1795 to "increase
and foster a taste for practical scientific botany."
To the ordinary sightseer, not less than to the botanist,
a tour of the Gardens offers unending variety and delight.
Many historic names are associated with the Gardens,
and the fine Yew Walk is still known as "Addisons's
Walk." The celebrated essayist lived in the neighbour
hood, as did also Dean Swift, "Stella," Sheridan, Steele,
Thomas Pamell, the poet, and other illustrious figures.
Admission free. Open week'days 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., in
summer; to sunset in winter. Sundays, 1 1 a.m. to 6 p.m.
in summer; to sunset in winter. On Sundays the green'
houses are not open before 2 p.m.
St. Stephen's Green.
On the south side of the city (at the top of Grafton
Street) lies St. Stephen's Green, the largest and prettiest
park within the city. Most of the fine houses surrounding
the Green were built during the eighteenth century. At
that period, as shown in Malton's "Views of Dublin," the
Green was surrounded by tree-shaded avenues, of which
the "Beaux Walk" on the northem side was the most
fashionable. In 1880 the Green became a public park, through the
munificence of Lord ArdUaun, a member of the Guinness
family. It covers an area of 22 acres and is in the form of

PARKS AND GARDENS loi
a square, each side measuring a quarter of a mile. The
Green is delightfully laid out, with trees, flower-beds, a
waterfall and an artificial lake with miniature islands.
Numerous wild-fowl inhabit the lake and are the delight
of the children. Indeed "feeding the ducks" is a recognised
pastime, not altogether scorned by adults. Among the
much appreciated amenities of the Green are sheltered
seats placed within sight and scent of flower-beds that
present at all times a brilliant and varied array.
St. Stephen's Green contains a number of statues. At
the western end is Foley's statue of Lord Ardilaun. There
is also a statue of Lord Eglinton, a former viceroy. Around
the central portion of the Green are pedestals surmounted
by busts of James Clarence Mangan, the poet, and Tom
Kettle. The last-named is a fine piece of work by Albert
Power, R.H.A. There is also a memorial in the Park to
O'Donovan Rossa.
St. Stephen's Green is open during the hours of day'
light, from 8 a.m. on week'days and lo a.m. on Sundays.
Herbert Park, near Ballsbridge, is a pleasant suburban
park, with flower-beds, tennis-courts and an artificial lake.
At Dartry is Palmerston Park, which is charmingly laid
out, with flower-beds, recreation-grounds and some fine
poplar trees. Other open spaces are Merrion Square and
Fitzwilliam Square, both surrounded by splendid Georgian
houses. The two latter areas are open to residents only.
On the north side of the river is Mountjoy Square,
and Parnell Square, which was a fashionable rendezvous
during the eighteenth century.

TOURS OF THE CITY
The following tours are so planned that they may be
conveniently undertaken on foot or by public transport.
Tour No. 1. — Around College Green, St. Stephen's Green and
Merrion Square.
COLLEGE GREEN is a most convenient starting-point
for any tour of the city. It is, moreover, highly
appropriate that one should commence to explore Dublin
from a centre which has long been associated with vivid
events and personalities in the city's history.
This busy junction where three streets meet is flanked
by the beautiful curved fagade of the old Parliament
House, and by the long frontage of Trinity College. The
historical associations of College Green are vividly recalled
by the situation of the three statues by Foley, the Irish
sculptor. In the centre, with upraised hand, is Henry
Grattan — standing but a few yards from the building
which so often resounded with his eloquence. Inside the
railings of the college are the statues of two illustrious
Trinity men, Edmund Burke and Oliver Goldsmith. Both
are finely executed, that of Goldsmith (on the right-hand
side) being an excellent study in tender and humorous
meditation. Leaving College Green we pass, on left, the Provost's
House and proceed up Grafton Street, Dublin's most
fashionable shopping centre.
At the top of Grafton Street lies St. Stephen's Green,
a pleasantly laid-out public park.
Visitors are recommended to visit the Permanent
Exhibition of Irish Manufactures, 3 St. Stephen's Green.
Established in 1921, the Exhibition is the only one of its
kind in Ireland. It contains a representative display of Irish
manufactured goods, including handcraft products.
The Exhibition, which is the Headquarters of the
National Agricultural and Industrial Development
Association, acts as an Information Bureau on all industrial

TOURS OF THE CITY 103
and economic matters. Its Enquiry Bureau tells whether
certain articles are or are not made in Ireland and by
whom the Irish goods are made. It advises as to the best
shops stocking the articles and gives all possible informa
tion to enquirers. Visitors are advised to make use of the
Bureau at all times, free of charge.
Open daily from 9.45 a.m. to i p.m. and 2 p.m. to 6
p.m. Saturdays 9.45 a.m. to i p.m. Admission is free.
The streets which lie just off the Green offer many
points of interest, and may be conveniently explored from
this point.
Just opposite the south-western entrance is Harcourt
Street. A left-hand tuming near the top brings us, via
Hatch Street, to Earlsfort Terrace. The principal object
of interest here is the somewhat severe fagade of Univer
sity College. In the Council Chamber of this building were
held the historic debates on the Anglo-Irish Treaty during
the winter of 1921-22.
Walking through St. Stephen's Green, one may now
emerge through a side gate just opposite Dawson Street
on the northern side. This street takes its name from one
Joshua Dawson, who owned land here in the early years
of the eighteenth century. On the right are the Mansion
House, the Royal Irish Academy, and St. Ann's Church,
in which Felicia Hemans, the poetess, is interred. Just
beyond St. Ann's Church is Molesworth Street, which
leads directly, to Kildare Street.
The large building which faces Molesworth Street is
Leinster House, meeting-place of the Dail and Senate.
On the right of the quadrangle is the National Museum,
while an exactly similar building on the left houses the
National Library. Almost opposite the Museum is the fine
granite edifice erected in recent years to house the Depart
ment of Industry and Commerce. At the foot of Kildare
Street we enter Leinster Street, passing the premises of the
Kildare Street Club. On the exterior of this building may
be observed some fine stone-carving by the famous O'Shea
brothers. Passing through Clare Street we come to Merrion
Square. In Holies Street, off Merrion Square North, is
the National Maternity Hospital, one of the most modem

104 DUBLIN
and best-equipped maternity hospitals in Europe. The
west side of Merrion Square is for the most part occupied
by Leinster Lawn. To the left of Leinster Lawn is the
Natural History Museum; the impressive building which
flanks the other side is the National Art Gallery.
Just off Merrion Square is Upper Merrion Street, where
our attention is at once attracted by the extensive block
which contains the College of Science and Government
Buildings. It is worth while crossing Merrion Row into Ely
Place, where there are several houses with interesting
associations. Returning along the west side of Merrion Square, we
turn left into Clare Street and proceed along Nassau
Street, to the bottom of Grafton Street. From this point
we may cross into Suffolk Street and view the pleasing
St. Andrew's Church. This is an historic spot, for it was
here that the Danish Thingmote (or Assembly-place)
stood in ancient times. The Thingmote was a huge
mound, and it afterwards supplied material for the
construction of Nassau Street.
Tour No. 2.— Old Dublin— The Castle — Christ Church Cathedral
and St. Patrick's Cathedral.
Leading westward from College Green is the wide
thoroughfare named Dame Street. On the left, almost
opposite the Olympia Theatre, is Dublin Castle, an edifice
of great historic interest. Adjacent to it is the City Hall.
The end of Dame Street merges into Cork Hill and Lord
Edward Street, which are situated on the eminence where
Dublin had its earliest beginnings. In Christchurch Place
— at the end of Lord Edward Street — stands the historic
Christ Church Cathedral.
The long, crooked thoroughfare which winds westward
from the Castle was the main street of the ancient walled
city of Dublin. The different sections of it now bear
various names. Just beyond Christchurch Place is High
Street, merging into Cornmarket, where stands St.
Audoen's Church. Continuing westward one enters
Thomas Street, which recalls so many memories of Irish
patriots. On the right is the imposing Church of SS.

TOURS OF THE CITY 105
Augustine and John, built 1862-92 from the designs of
Pugin and Ashlin. Farther up the street, on the opposite
side, is St. Catherine's Church, in front of which Robert
Emmet was hanged in 1803. StiU farther west is James's
Street, where (on right) is situated the visitors' entrance
to Guinness's Brewery, the largest establishment of its
kind in Europe. The brewery was purchased by Arthur
Guinness in 1759 and the enterprise became a limited
company in 1886. The buildings cover an area of sixty
acres and are on three levels, connected by a miniature
narrow-gauge railway system. Previous to exportation the
stout is stored in great vats, the largest of which has a
capacity of 88,000 gallons.
Visitors are conducted through the Brewery every hour
from 1 1 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays at 11 a.m. only.
Just off James's Street, in Bow Lane, is St. Patrick's
Hospital, where may be seen a very fine collection of
relics of Dean Swift.
Continuing our exploration of Old Dublin, we return
to Christchurch Place, a convenient base for sightseeing.
Off Christchurch Place is Werburgh Street, where stands
the interesting old Church of St. Werburgh. Near here,
at No. 9 Hoey's Court ( now demolished), was bom
Jonathan Swift. For the last thirty-two years of his life
he was Dean of St. Patrick's Cathedral, which may be
viewed from the foot of Werburgh Street, towering above
its humble surroundings.
This district is full of interest for the sightseer and the
student. In the Cathedral Close is the remarkable Marsh's
Library, and just across the road is the Deanery. The room
in which Swift slept looks towards the cathedral, and he
has told how he moved to another room on the night of
Stella's burial to avoid seeing the lights in the mortuary
chapel. The rather dilapidated area surrounding St. Patrick's
Cathedral is known as the Coombe. It was once a fashion
able and thriving quarter, and a centre of industrial
activity. Here were situated the residences of leading
citizens, various factories, and the meeting-halls of the
powerful City Guilds. One of the latter — Weavers' Hall

io6 DUBLIN
— may be seen by walking through Dean Street to the
Lower Coombe.
Leaving the environs of the Cathedral, we may go
through Kevin Street, passing (on left) the Civic Guard
Barracks. This building stands on the site of the former
palace of the Protestant Archbishops of Dublin. The stone
gateposts belong to the original gateway of the palace.
Nearby are the large Kevin Street Technical Schools,
where upwards of i,ooo students receive specialised
training in arts and crafts.
From Kevin Street one may turn left into Bishop Street,
one side of which is occupied by Jacob's Biscuit Factory.
Its products have a world-wide reputation. Jacob's Factory
was one of the strategic points seized by the Irish Volun
teers during the Insurrection of 1916, the garrison here
being under the command of Thomas MacDonagh.
Continuing along Peter's Row, we enter Whitefriars
Street and observe, on the right, the Carmelite Friary. In
the fine church attached to the friary there is preserved
an' interesting specimen of mediaeval art — an image of
the Blessed Virgin which survived when St. Mary's
Abbey, the oldest religious establishment in Dublin, was
destroyed by fire.
Bearing right along Whitefriars Street we emerge into
Aungier Street almost opposite the house in which
Thomas Moore was born. Aungier Street leads into South
Great George's Street, at the foot of which we turn right
into Dame Street and retum to College Green.
Tour No. 3. — Along the Quays — O'Connell Bridge^ — O'Connell
Street — Parnell Square.
Running northwards from College Green is Westmore
land Street, the fine wide thoroughfare which leads to
O'Connell Bridge. To the right as we leave College Green
is College Street, which leads directly to Pearse Street.
This street is named after Padraig Pearse, leader of the
1916 Rising, who was born at No. 27. In Pearse Street also
is the Queen's Theatre (see p. 107). Almost directly
opposite the theatre is Tara Street, where the central Fire
Brigade Station and the Public Baths are situated.
Proceeding through Tara Street towards the river, we

TOURS OF THE CITY 107
emerge at Butt Bridge. It will be seen that one's view of
the Custom House is obscured by the overhead railway-
bridge; but by walking a short distance along George's
Quay, to the right, an uninterrupted view may be obtained
across the river.
On our return along Burgh Quay, the chief objects of
interest are the Com Exchange and O'Connell's Con
ciliation Hall, where the Irish leader had his headquarters
during his agitation for the repeal of the Act of Union.
This historic building subsequently housed the Tivoli
Music Hall and is now the home of a daily newspaper,
"The Irish Press." Burgh Quay is the terminus for buses
running to Bray and other places on the coast south of
Dublin. At the junction of five busy streets, we reach O'Connell
Bridge, a splendid three-arched structure with a span of
fifty-one yards. It has an unusual distinction in the fact
that its width is greater than its length. There are wide
footpaths on either side and "islands" in the centre,
leaving ample road-room. O'Connell Bridge, being' an ex-.
tension of Dublin's principal thoroughfare, is the most
traversed spot in the city.
O'Connell Street runs northward from the Bridge to the
rising ground near the Rotunda. It is generally recognised
as one of the finest streets in Europe. Though its architec
ture is almost completely modern, the perspective of this
spacious and impressive thoroughfare pays tribute to the
men who planned it almost two centuries ago.
Between O'Connell Bridge and Butt Bridge, on the
Northem side of the river, runs Eden Quay. Just off Eden
Quay, to the left, is Marlborough Street, where stood the
Abbey Theatre. The building which housed this world-
famous institution is singularly unimpressive. It was
burned in July, 1951. and the Abbey productions are at
present staged at the Queen's Theatre, Pearse Street. Near
Butt Bridge is the crescent-shaped Beresford Place, at the
corner of which is situated Liberty Hall. This building has
been closely associated with the Labour movement, and
was the headquarters of Dublin's "Citizen Army," prior
to the Rising of 1916. Here was printed the famous "Pro-

io8 DUBLIN
clamation of the Irish Republic," which was read from the
doorsteps of the building on Easter Monday, 1916.
Coming back along Eden Quay we turn into
Marlborough Street, again passing the Abbey Theatre.
On the left, just beyond the intersection with Talbot
Street, is the Catholic PrO'Cathedral. The buildings
opposite the Cathedral are the Central Model Schools. On
the right is Tyrone House, one of the most ancient and
interesting of Dublin's Georgian houses. It was built for
the Earl of Tyrone in 1740 from designs by Cassels, and
is now used as offices by the Department of Education.
Continuing along Marlborough Street, we cross Pamell
Street before entering North Great George's Street. Many
of the fine Georgian houses in this street have fallen into
a dilapidated state, but some of the interiors still show
beautiful decorative work. This thoroughfare was a
fashionable residential quarter during the latter half of the
eighteenth century.
Turning left along Great Denmark Street, we pass —
on the right — Belvedere House, now a Jesuit College.
It is one of Dublin's finest Georgian houses, and exhibits
beautiful examples of the stucco work of the period. Con
tinuing, we emerge into Parnell Square opposite the
Presbyterian Church (known as "Findlater's Church").
The fine houses in the Square are worth examination and
a visit should certainly be paid to Charlemont House (on
north side of the Square) to view the Municipal Gallery
of Modern Art.
Passing down the east side, we leave the Rotunda
buildings (see p. 44) and the Gate Theatre on our right
and enter O'Connell Street. On the left of the street
will be noticed a fine block of buildings in a homogeneous
style. This block — which includes the Gresham Hotel,
the Savoy Cinema and the Irish Tourist Bureau — re
presents portion of the extensive rebuilding which took
place after the troubled period of 1916-23.
Just beyond the Nelson Pillar, on the right, is the
General Post Office. Crossing O'Connell Bridge again, it
is worth pausing to admire the vista of Dublin's inland
quays, stretching westward with the irregular silhouette
of the city rising against the sky, A short walk through

TOURS OF THE CITY 109
Westmoreland Street takes us back to our starting-point
at College Green. On the right, at the comer of West
moreland Street and Aston's Quay, may be noticed the
Ballast Office. Its clock has long been regarded by
Dubliners as the most reliable public timepiece in the city.
Tour No. 4. — Phoenix Park — Zoological Gardens —
Glasnevin Cemetery — Botanic Gardens.
Starting again from College Green, we walk along
Westmoreland Street and across O'Connell Bridge to the
corner of Bachelor's Walk. If Phoenix Park be the
immediate objective a bus may be taken from this point.
The Four Courts, however, should not be missed. It is
situated on Inns Quay (twopenny bus-ride from O'Connell
Bridge), but a better general view of this fine building
may be obtained by crossing O'Donovan Rossa Bridge.
Near the southern end of the bridge, on Merchants'
Quay, is the Franciscan Church of Adam and Eve.
Father Mathew Bridge, just west of the Four Courts,
occupies the site of the first bridge which spanned the
Liffey. This spot was known to the ancient Irish as the
"Ford of the Hurdles." From this ford Dublin derived its
oldest name — Baile Atha Cliath, "the Town of the
Hurdle Ford."
Returning to the northern quays, we enter Church
Street, just beyond the Four Courts. Here, on the left, is
St. Michan's Church. Its vaults have the extraordinary
property of preserving the dead from decay. In Church
Street also are the Capuchin Church and Friary and the
Father Mathew Memorial Hall, which the friars have built
in the vicinity.
Retracing our footsteps towards the river, we continue
our journey, passing the house on Arran Quay in which
Edmund Burke was bom. Farther along, on the right, is
the extensive Collins Barracks, while Kingsbridge Railway
Station stands just across the river. A little to the north
of Collins Barracks is Arbour Hill Detention Barracks,
formerly the old Provost Marshal's Prison. Here Wolfe
Tone died and many of the insurgents of 1798 were
executed. In a comer of the prison yard are the graves of
the executed leaders of the 191 6 Rising.

no DUBLIN
Beyond Collins Barracks the quays merge into Parkgate
Street, at the western end of which is the main entrance
to the Phoenix Park.
Having explored the Park and visited the People's
Gardens and the Zoological Gardens, we may emerge
through the gateway leading to the North Circular Road.
Going towards this exit from the Zoo, we see on our left
a large group of buildings, the Depot and Headquarters
of the Garda Siochana (Police Force).
Outside the gate we may take a bus (No. 9 or lo)
towards the city, passing en route the Dublin Metropolitan
Cattle Market. Farther on, at the junction with Cabra
Road, is the magnificent St. Peter's Church, under the care
of the Vincentian Fathers.
Shortly after passing the church we alight and board
a bus bound for Glasnevin (No. 19). Getting off at
Finglas Road, it is but a short walk to Glasnevin
Cemetery, burial-place of many illustrious Irishmen. Most
conspicuous is the Monument to Daniel O'Connell, the
"Liberator," which is a replica of an Irish round tower,
rising 160 feet above the crypt containing his remains. Just
to the right is the Gothic Memorial Chapel to O'Connell,
designed by Dr. Petrie.
Opposite the door of the mortuary chapel is the grave
of Parnell, which is still visited on the anniversary of his
death by a few of his devoted followers. Nearby is a
statue, to Barry Sullivan, a famous Shakespearian actor.
The tomb of John Philpot Curran should also be seen.
It is of plain granite, impressive in its simplicity. Nearby
is the grave of James Fintan Lalor.
An imposing memorial group in Sicilian marble marks
the Fenian Plot, in which are buried Terence Bellew
MacManus, Colonel John O'Mahony, Sergeant MacCarthy,
Daniel Reddin, P. W. Nally and James Stritch. The
Republican Plot contains the graves of many who were
prominent in the stmggle for Irish independence in the
nineteenth and in the present century. In the 1916 Plot,
in St. Paul's Section, are buried a number of the men
who fell in the Rising of Easter Week, 19 16. All three
plots are under the care of the National Graves
Association.

TOURS OF THE CITY in
The Cemetery is also the burial-place of Michael Collins,
President Arthur Griffith and Kevin O'Higgins, three of
the leading figures in the movement which led to the
establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922.
From Glasnevin it is but a short walk to the large
modernistic Church of Corpus Christi, in Home Farm
Road, Returning to the bus-stop at Glasnevin, we take a bus
(No. 19) to the Botanic Gardens, which are reached
within a few minutes (see p. 100).
After a survey of the Gardens we board a city-bound
bus (No. 19). At the North Circular Road, Mountjoy
Prison is seen on the left. O'Donovan Rossa and other
Fenian prisoners were held here. Among the graves within
the walls is that of Kevin Barry, the boy patriot who was
executed here in 1920. From Berkeley Road we see, on left,
in Eccles Street, the fine Mater Misericordiae Hospital, the
largest in Dublin. The large Celtic cross inside the railings
opposite the hospital is a memorial to the Four Masters.
A little farther along Berkeley Road is St. Joseph's
Catholic Church, on left. Shortly after this we turn into
North Frederick Street and soon arrive at the Nelson
Pillar in O'Connell Street.

HOW TO GET THERE
The following list shows the buses passing or going
nearest to various points of interest in the city. For key to
abbreviations, see "Trips from Dublin," opposite.

}

By Bus.
Zoo (9.30 a.m. to
6 p.m.)
People's Gardens
Phoenix Park
National Museum
National Library
Leinster House
National Gallerv

Government Buildings .
Christ Church Cathedral
City HaU
Dublin Castle . . f"
St. Patrick's Cathedral )
Four Courts . . )
St. Michan's Church . )
St. Audoen's Church )
Guinness's Brewery \
Bank of Ireland (Old )
Parliament House)
Trinity College >
Municipal Art Gallery 1
(ParneU Square) f
Croke Park (Gaelic |
Atheltic Association) )'
Royal Dublin Society 1
and Hospitals' Trust -
Offices, Ballsbridge . )
Dublin Airport ..
Dunsink Observatory

23 from Parnell Street. E.Q. 24.
A.Q. 25 (alight at Main Gate).
Also N.P. 9 or 10 (to North
Circular Road Gate) .
N.P. 6, 7A, 8, 9, 10 or 11.
Alight at Kildare Street.
N.P. 6, 7A, 8 or 9. Alight at
Merrion Square.
N.P. 10. Alight at Upr. Merrion St.
C.S. 50, 50A, 50B. Also 54 or
54 A from Lr. Abbey Street, 21
from College Green.
E.Q. 24. A.Q. 72.
21 from College Green.
Five minutes' walk southward
from Nelson Pillar.
Five minutes' walk northward
from Nelson Pillar.
N.P. 3, II, 12, 16, 17.
23 from Pamell Street.
N.P. 6, 7A or 8.
E.Q. 41A
A.Q. 39 or 39A. N.P. 22.
112

TRIPS FROM DUBLIN

By Bus.

Sea, countryside and mountains are readily accessible
from the city. The termini from which the (CLE.) buses
start are indicated by the following symbols: N.P. (Nelson
Pillar), B.Q. (Burgh Quay), A.Q. (Aston Quay),
E,Q. (Eden Quay), D,S. (D'Olier Street), C.S. (College
Street), N.E.S. (North Earl Street). The quayside termini
all adjoin O'Connell Bridge. Burgh Quay is east of it, on
the south side; Aston Quay, west, on the south; and Eden
Quay, east, on the north side. D'Olier Street runs south
east from O'Connell Bridge and College Street connects
D'Olier Street with College Green. North Earl Street runs
eastward from Nelson Pillar towards Amiens Street.

To the Sea.
BrayDalkey DoUymount Dun Laoghaire
GreystonesHowth and Sutton
Malahide

Bus No.
B.Q. 45.
N.P. 8.
N.P. 84.
N.E.S. 30.
E.Q. (Great Northern
E.Q. (Great Northern
Services) .
E.Q. 42.

To the Mountains.
Bohernabreena
Delgany
DundrumEnniskerryPollaphucaTallaghtWhitechurch

Bu

A.Q
C.S. 84
C.S. 44
C.S. 44
B.Q. 65
A.Q. 49
B.Q. 47

No.
49, 49A.

D.S. 48 or 48A.

49A, 77.

113

114

DUBLIN

To the Countryside. Bus Nc

Celbridge

A.Q. 67.

Churchtown

B.Q. 61.

Clondalkin

A.Q. 51.

Foxrock

D.S. 63.

Goatstown .

B.Q. 62.

Leixlip

A.Q. 66.

Lucan

A.Q. 25,

Maynooth

A.Q. 66.

Swords

. E.Q. 41

68, 69.

66, 67.

By Rail.
Stations.
Amiens Street (CLE.) )
Tara Street J-
Westland Row )
Amiens Street (G.N.R.)

Harcourt Street (CLE.)

For trains to Blackrock, Dun
Laoghaire, Dalkey, Killiney,
Bray, Greystones.
For trains to Howth, Sutton Port-
marnock, Malahide, Donabate,
Rush and Lusk, Skerries,
Balbriggan, Bettystown, and
Lay town.
For trains to Dundrum, Fox-
rock (Leopardstown) , Shankill
Bray.

MILEAGES FROM DUBLIN

Arklow

. 48

Kilkenny

73

Armagh

. 80

Killarney

190

Athlone

77*

Killiney

12

Balbriggan

i9i

Leixlip

II

Belfast

102J

Limerick

I22i

Bray

13

Lucan

9

Carlow

52

Malahide

10

Clifden

. 182

Maynooth

15

Clonmel

ro5

Naas

21

Cork .

i6oi

Newgrange

32

Dalkey

10

Portmarnock

8

Delgany

I9i

Pollaphuca

24

Derry

• 145

Rosslare Harbour

98

Donegal

149

Roundwood

25

Drogheda

30

Skerries

19

Dundalk

52

Sligo

135

Dun Laoghaire

74

Tara .

23

Enniskerry

- 13

Tipperary

112

Galway

133

Traee

i86|

Glendaloch .

• 31

Waterford

103

Greystones .

. 18

Wexford

85i

Howth

¦ 9i

Wicklow

31

^~7\ —

DUBLIN
and the
EAST COAST

Based on the Ordnance Survey by permission of the Minister for Finance.

115

COUNTY DUBLIN
The County of Dubliti, with an area of 356 square
miles, is one of the smallest in Ireland. Nevertheless, there
lie within its boundaries many picturesque seaside and
inland rsorts, and several regions of considerable historic
interest. The coast, running roughly north and south of the city,
curves in a succession of beautiful bays, the largest of
which are Dublin Bay and Killiney Bay. All the principal
resorts are within a radius of ten miles from the city and
are quite easy of access.
Dublin Airport, at CoUinstown in north County Dublin,
about 5j miles from the city centre, is regarded as one
of the best equipped airports in western Europe. The
finely designed Terminal Building, with observation plat
forms, attracts many visitors. A charge is made for
admission, as follows : Cars; 2 /6 per car, including
driver; 6d. per passenger. Cyclists: 6d per person.
Pedestrians: 6d. per person. Children: 3d.
Dunsink Observatory is situated to the north of the
Phoenix Park between the villages of Finglas and
Blanchardstown. It stands on a hill from which a magnifi
cent view is obtainable. Founded in 1783 by Provost
Andrews of Trinity College, it is one of the oldest
observatories in the world. Some of the most distinguished
names in Irish science have been connected with the
Observatory, at which Sir William Rowan Hamilton spent
most of his life and developed his fundamental researches
in mathematics. In 1946 the Observatory was acquired
from Trinity College by the Government. Following this
transfer, the Observatory has been re-organised entirely,
and new instruments including a powerful tower telescope
for solar research and photo-electric instmments for stellar
observations are now in operation. The Observatory is also
the joint owner together with the observatories of Armagh

COUNTY DUBLIN 117
and Harvard, U.S.A., of a large 36-inch reflecting tele
scope of the so-called Schmidt-type. The new Irish-
American telescope has been mounted at a southern station
in Bloemfontein, South Africa, where it is operated in
close collaboration between the three parent observatories.
The Observatory is open to the general public on the
first Saturday of each month, between 2.30 and 4.30 p.m.,
and between 7.30 and 9.30 p.m. (from October to March),
or 8.30 and 10.30 p.m. (from April to September). At
other times visitors are admitted only by special appoint
ment. (Buses 39 or 39A from Aston Quay, or b is 22 from
Nelson Pillar.)
NORTH COUNTY DUBLIN
HOWTH
(t)e.\nn e<)i"o<iiR : Edar's Peak)
Population : 5,756. E.C. Day : Thursday.
Transport : G.N.R. (rail or bus) . Tram service
from Howth and Sutton stations
around HiU of Howth.
Maps : O.S. may i inch No. 112. ^ inch No. 16.
Distances : Dublin gj m., Drogheda 49J m.,
Malahide 12 m., Swords 15 m., Bal
briggan 33 m.
Churches : Catholic, Church of Ireland, Pres
byterian, Methodist.
Bank : Bank of Ireland.
Post Office : Main Street.
Just nine miles from Dublin lie the town and headland
of Howth, connected with the city by a narrow isthmus
of sandy land. The Hill of Howth is one of the most
prominent features of the east coast of Ireland, and forms
the northem boundary of Dublin Bay. This promontory
is one of Dublin's chief beauty-spots, and has the
reputation of being the healthiest region on the coast.
It consists of rocky terrain rising to a height of 560
feet at its highest point, and is bounded on three sides by
sheer cliffs, though at many points there is access to
sheltered coves at the edge of the water. These cliffs form
a characteristic feature of the scenery of Howth. On

1 18 DUBLIN
account of its situation, the southern side of the Hill ot
Howth affords remarkable views of Dublin City and the
long panorama of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains.
Looking north from the summit, over the plains of Louth
and Meath, one can discern Slieve GuUion and (in good
visibility) the Moume Mountains. On very clear days the
mountains of Wales are visible across the Irish Sea.

Around the Hill of Howth.
From Sutton and Howth Stations trams convey passen
gers to the summit, giving, as they climb up the sides of
the hill, magnificent views across Dublin Bay, of the coast
line stretching away from Dublin with the mountains of
Dublin and Wicklow behind. The Hill of Howth is
encircled and traversed by pleasant pathways, which
invite the rambler to explore its many secluded recesses
and spots of interest, and to enjoy, in their varying per
spectives, the enchanting views afforded on every side.
A walk on the northem side brings the visitor to the
Baily Lighthouse, built on the site of an old stone fortress,
the remains of which are still faintly visible. The coast
scenery here is very fine, particularly at the points called
the "Lion's Head" and "The Needles" — isolated rocks
near the Baily. Another fine walk is from Sutton to the
Baily, along the south-western side of the hill. The visitor
passes St. Fintan's Church, a tiny building dating probably
from the ninth century but showing much later work.
Beside it is St. Fintan's Holy WeU. On the very summit
of the hill — at Sheil Martin — there is a caim which is
reputed to be the burial mound of Crimhthann or Criffan,
High King of Irelahd at the beginning of the Christian

The Howth Gun-Running.
Howth was the scene of the dramatic landing of arms
for the Irish Volunteers from Erskine Childers' yacht
Asgard, on 26th July 191 4. The Volunteers who took
possession of the pier to receive the arms were com
manded by Cathal Brugha.

COUNTY DUBLIN 119
Howth Castle.
Howth Castle is a splendid baronial mansion built in
1564 by the twentieth Lord of Howth. (The title is now
extinct). The edifice incorporates an earlier existing
structure, and it will be noticed that the castle has square
towers with stepped battlements. This feature may also
be noticed in the tower of St. Patrick's Cathecfcal, Dublin,
and is almost peculiar to Ireland.
The castle is approached by a long flight of steps, at
the top of which may be seen the bells from the ancient
Abbey of Howth. In the great hall is the huge two-
handed sword of Sir Almeric Tristram, first Lord of
Howth, and in the dining-room a full-length portrait of
Dean Swift. Howth Castle demesne is richly wooded, and
the gardens present a wonderful sight, especially when the
rhododendrons and azaleas are in bloom.
The grounds. Rhododendron Walk and Beech Hedges
are open daily from May ist to September ist. Admission
IS. 9d. at Main Gate between 3.0 p.m. and 6.30 p.m.
Children haff-price. Reduction for large parties by
arrangement. Telephone 322244.
In the demesne is a massive dolmen, the top stone of
which measures 14 feet long, 21 feet wide and 6 feet
thick, its estimated weight being seventy tons. It is the
reputed burial-place of Aideen, who died of grief on the
death of her husband in A.D. 284. The lady is better
known as the subject of one of Sir Samuel Ferguson's
poems. In the centre of the town, situated on high ground
overlooking the harbour, are the extensive and interest
ing ruins of Howth Abbey, and its burial-ground sur
rounded by a battlement wall. Amongst the monuments
in the abbey is the marble tomb of Christopher, Lord of
Howth, and his wife, whose effigies are sculptured in high
relief on the slab. The remains of Howth College, dating
from the sixteenth century, are on the south side of the
enclosure, and consist of the hall, kitchen, and some cells.
In Howth Demesne, not far from the castle, is Corr Castle,
a square tower dating probably from the sixteenth
century.

120 DUBLIN
Ireland's Eye.
A small island reached by row-boat or motor-boat from
Howth Harbour (i mile), offers a pleasant excursion and
is a popular venue for picnic parties. There is good bath
ing at Carrigeen Bay and several bathing coves are found
on the south side of the island. Ireland's Eye — 350 feet
at its highest point — is a haunt of many varieties of
sea-birds. On the island is the ancient-looking church of St.
Nessan, which is really an antiquarian forgery. The ruins
of the original church of St. Nessan, which dated from
Early Christian times, were restored about 1844, and the
present structure is the result. On the island also is a
Martello Tower.
The chief charms of Ireland's Eye are, however, its
heather and ferns, its delightful bathing strands, and its
heights, from which good views are obtained of Lambay
Island, of the north coast of Dublin, and of Howth itself.
Amusements. Golf. — The Howth Club has an excellent i8-hole
course. Sutton 9-hole course is situated close to Sutton
Station, and has a reputation for its iron play. The Royal
Dublin links (i8-hole) and St. Anne's (9-hole), both at
DoUymount, can be reached in a few minutes by bus.
Bathing. — Good bathing can be enjoyed from Bal-
scadden Beach (shingle) at foot of viUage, and also from
Claremont Strand, a safe sandy beach near the West Pier.
More expert swimmers are catered for at Fitzgibbon,
where diving and deep-sea bathing may be enjoyed.
There is a fine bathing-pool for men, at the Stake,
Balscadden. Boating. — Row-boats and motor boats can be hired at
the East Pier for trips to Ireland's Eye or around the
harbour. MALAHIDE.
Trains from Amiens Street Station; frequent service.
Bus Services from Eden Quay.
Road Route via Amiens Street, Fairview, Malahide
Road and Coolock. 10 miles.

COUNTY DUBLIN 121
Malahide, situated on rising ground at the southern
side of a narrow estuary, is a popular seaside resort.
It is one of the few resorts near Dublin which possess
a sandy beach, and it offers facilities for safe and exhilarat
ing bathing. Malahide, moreover, is within easy reach of
Portmarnock, a popular resort of which the chief attrac
tions are bathing and golf. The Velvet Strand here is a
splendid three-mile stretch of sandy beach. Portmarnock
i8-hole golf course is a weU-known championship venue.
The scenery around Malahide, though pleasant in
character is, comparatively uninspiring, except towards
the east, where the seaward view is rendered striking by
Lambay Island, Ireland's Eye and the Hill of Howth.
Lambay Island is well known as a bird sanctuary.
Castle and Abbey.
Close to the town is Malahide Castle, a picturesque,
battlemented edifice of mediaeval origin. The public are
not admitted either to the house or the grounds.
Lord Talbot de Malahide, who died in 1948, was a
great-great-grandson of Boswell, biographer of Johnson.
He sold to an American buyer a large collection of Boswell
MSS., which was eventually acquired by Yale University
for scholarly research and publication. These MSS.
together with another large collection found at a house in
Scotland and also acquired by Yale, form the greatest
known collection of English literary MSS. of the
eighteenth century. Among the Malahide papers are over
1,000 pages of Boswell's "Life" of Johnson, containing
many passages suppressed by Boswell before publication;
and more than 500 other items, including numerous
letters from Boswell to various great contemporaries; two
letters from Johnson himelf; MSS. and printed copies of
poems and prose by Boswell, some previously unknown;
and a long, confidential autobiographical sketch written
by Boswell in 1764 to send to Rousseau.
Close to the castle is the ancient Malahide Abbey,
consisting of nave and chancel, divided by an impressive
arch. There are two small lancet windows in the north
wall and one in the south wall. The west gable is almost
perfect and has a fine three-light Gothic window. In the

122 DUBLIN
building stands the altar-tomb of Maud Plunket (heroine
of Gerald Griffin's baUad. "The Bridal of Malahide"),
whose husband was killed on their wedding-day, leaving
her "maid, wife and widow in one day."
Golf is, perhaps the greatest attraction for visitors at
Malahide. The Island Club has one of the best i8-hole
courses in the County Dublin, while not far away are the
celebrated championship links at Portmarnock. There is
also the Malahide 9-hole course.
Church of St. Doulagh.
The ancient Church of St. Doulagh (3 miles to the
south) is a building of considerable interest to the
antiquary. St. Doulagh flourished about A.D. 600 and built
here an anchorite cell. Many rebuildings and remodellings
took place during the course of time, with the result that
it is now very difficult to ascertain the correct ages of the
different parts. The portion of the building to the west of
the tower is the earliest. It is the last anchorite c'eU to
have been buUt on the site and within it is the traditional
tomb of St. Doulagh. Next in date comes the chapel or
east end, while the tower with its stepped battlements is
the most recent addition. It is unlikely that any part of
the fabric is older than the twelfth century, and it is prob
able that the tower is as late as the fourteenth century.
The building is roofed with stone throughout.
The parish church was, from early times, built against
the north side of the cell and chapel, and occupies this
position to the present day. Originally Catholic, it now
belongs to the Church of Ireland and is stiU in use. The
present parish church is a rebuilding of 1864, and the
ancient stone-roofed structure is used as a vestry.
On approaching the church from the main Dublin-
Malahide road the first object seen is what is locally caUed
St. Doulagh's Cross. This is of granite, plain and roughly
cut and five feet in height, including its stepped podium.
Nothing further is known of this cross, and it is even
doubtful if it now stands in its original position.
The Baptistry, about 200 feet to the north of the
church, is an octagonal two-storey building with vaulted
stone roof. The upper storey is divided from the lower by

COUNTY DUBLIN 123
a string-course. Steps lead down to the square-headed
doorway on the south side. In the centre of the floor is
the well, the mouth of which finishes on a carefully cut
limestone coping. At one time the interior wall surfaces
were decorated with plaques and gilding.
Just north of St. Doulagh's is Feltrim Hill, noted for
its limestone fossils. A conspicuous object on its summit
is an old windmill tower. Excavation of a stone fort
recently discovered on the summit showed that the fort
had been inhabited from neolithic down almost to
mediaeval times. SWORDS.
Some 3 miles west of Malahide is the historic village
of Swords, where St. Columba founded a monastery
(sixth century) of which no trace now remains. At the
northern end of the village stands the remarkable Swords
Castle (c. 1200), in the form of a large irregular pentagon
still completely walled in on all sides. A building contain
ing a chapel guards the main gateway. Another object of
interest is the round tower in the grounds of the
Protestant Church. It is 75 feet high and has an ancient
lintelled door. Nearby is a mediaeval church tower, all
that now remains of the original church.
Five miles north of Swords is the village of Lusk, with
its round tower and ancient church, both of great interest
to the antiquarian. A little to the east is the quiet seaside
resort of Rush, a favoured summer retreat for families
because of its safe bathing. Rush is also noted as a market-
gardening centre and for its large-scale bulb-growing.
Kenure Park demesne, just north of the village, has fine
gardens which are open to visitors.
Rogerstown (near Rush) is the usual point of departure
for Lambay Island (617 acres; highest point Knockbane,
.418 feet above sea-level), 3 miles offshore. Noted as a bird
sanctuary, the island has a large population of guillemots,
Icittiwakes and other species. A number of birds unusual
in these countries are regular visitors to the island.
Lambay Island is the property of Lord Revelstoke, and
special permission to visit is necessary. Apply : The
Steward, Lambay Island, Rush, Co. Dublin.

124 DUBLIN

SKERRIES
(Sceini: Sea Rocks)
Population : 3,000. E.C. Day : Thursday.
Transport : G.N.R. (rail or bus) .
Maps : O.S. map i inch Nos. 102 and 92, J inch
No. 13.
Distances: Dublin 19 m.. Swords 11 m., Bal
briggan 4 m., Drogheda 15 m.,
Dundalk 37.
Churches : Catholic, Church of Ireland, Methodist.
Banks : Munster and Leinster Bank Northem
Bank.
Post Office : Great Strand Street.
Few seaside resorts can boast such potentialities as
Skerries, and to this is due the ever-growing popularity
which it enjoys. It has one of the finest strands in Ireland,
a firm sandy beach, where bathing is absolutely safe .at
any stage of the tide. Moreover, Skerries enjoys a dry,
bracing climate unrivalled anywhere along the east coast.
For these reasons it is much resorted to for sea-bathing
in the summer, and the strand is especially the happy
rendezvous of children. Special facilities are also provided
for adult visitors or ambitious swimmers, there being the
"Captain's" bathing place for men and a separate swim
ming place for ladies. At both venues diving boards and
dressing places are provided.
Environs of Skerries.
The surroundings of Skerries are, generally speaking,
flat; yet its situation is pleasant and picturesque. In clear
weather a fine view is obtained of the Moume Mountains,
and of the coast stretching away to the north. Adjacent
to the shore are three small islands, St. Patrick's Island,
Colt Island and Shenick's Island. The latter can be visited
on foot when the tide is low; the others can be reached

COUNTY DUBLIN 125
by boat. All three islands will interest the visitor, particu
larly St. Patrick's (also called Church Island), on which
are the ruins of an old church said to have been built by
the saint. It is believed that St. Patrick landed here on
his way to Tara, and a footprint on the rocky shore of
the mainland is pointed out as that of the saint. Five miles
out to sea is the Rockabill lighthouse, standing on an
isolated rock; southwards, a good view is obtained of
Lambay Island and its rugged cliffs.
Antiquities. Looking from the harbour north-westwards the visitor
has a view towards Balbriggan, the coast swerving away
in a beautiful curve at Bamagearagh Bay (2 miles). The
road running in this direction provides a very pleasant
walk, which can be extended by tuming inland (south
wards) from Bamagearagh towards Milverton demesne,
near which are the Holy Well and site of the ancient
Oratory of St. Mobhi, who lived and prayed here early in
the seventh century. About i^ miles farther south-east
stand the ruins of Baldungan Castle, which figured
prominently in the wars between the Confederates of the
Pale and the Parliamentary forces. Another pleasant stroll
can be enjoyed by walking along the cliffs to Lough'
shinny, an old fishing village with thatched cottages
grouped around the picturesque little bay.
Amusements. Skerries Golf Course (9 holes, S.S.S. 69) is beautifully
laid out and many open competitions are held there
during the season. Special temporary membership fees are
available to visitors.
There are facilities for boating and fishing, and Skerries
is also amply provided with the organised amusements
characteristic of a modem seaside resort.
Four miles north-west of Skerries, or twenty miles from
Dublin, is Balbriggan, celebrated chiefly for the hosiery
which is manufactured here. As a seaside resort it appeals,
however, to those who appreciate a quiet holiday, and
affords good facilities for bathing from its sheltered little
strand. Like Skerries, the climate is bracing and in every
way conducive to health.

[26 DUBLIN

SOUTH COUNTY DUBLIN
The coast from Dublin southwards to Killiney is
studded with a succession of resorts, all much frequented
during the summer months. Nearest to Dublin are
Merrion, Blackrock and Seapoint, aU favourite resorts
because of the exceUent bathing afforded. At Blackrock,
in particular, the facilities are exceUent, as here are
extensive open-air swimming baths with diving boards.
Swimming contests and aquatic sports are held at the
baths frequently during the season.
DUN LAOGHAIRE
("Ofm L^ogAiue : Leary's Fort)
Population : 47,920. E.C. Day : Wednesday.
Transport : CLE. (rail or bus).
Maps: O.S. map i inch No. 112, ^ inch No. 16.
Distances : Dublin 7 J m., Blackrock 2 m., Bray
8 m., Dalkey 2 m., Killiney 4 m.
Churches : Catholic, Church of Ireland, Methodist,
Presbyterian, Plymouth Brethren.
Banks : Bank of Ireland, Commercial Banking
Co., National Bank, Provincial Bank,
Ulster Bank, Royal Bank.
Post Office : Marine Road; also various sub-
of&ces.
Dun Laoghaire (pronounced Doon Lay'reh) is well
known to visitors from across the Channel, being an
important gateway to Ireland, via the Holyhead route.
The beauty of its situation and environment, and the
tonic qualities of its atmosphere, combine to make Dun
Laoghaire a delightful holiday resort. Excellent accom
modation is available and there is every facility for
healthful enjoyment.
The magnificent harbour is much admired, and from
the mile-long East Pier there are very fine views of Dublin
Bay and the charming scenery along the coast.
Viewing Platform. This raised platform has a bronze
circular indicator plate showing the points of the compass
and various places of tourist interest.

DUN LAOGHAIRE HARBOUR

V/®' DXJISr LAOGHAIRE
SHOWING PRINCIPAL STREETS i. PLACES Of INTEREST.

Based on the Ordnance Survey by permission of the Minister for Finance.

128 DUBLIN
Bathing may be enjoyed in the open sea, and there are
also the Municipal Baths, thoroughly up to date in the
various courses provided, and conducted under the most
hygienic conditions.
The well-kept People's Park, quite close to the sea, is
open to visitors. Selections of music are provided by mili
tary and civilian bands. Bands also perform reguarly on
the adjacent East Pier.
The Marine Parade is a splendidly constructed avenue
extending from the harbour to Sandycove. It is a popular
rendezvous, and as night falls hundreds of fairy lamps are
lit, adding colour and animation to the scene. At the end
of the East Pier is a lighthouse, flashing every thirty
seconds and visible at sea for a distance of twenty-five
miles. Across the bay, on Howth Head, is the Baily Light
house, the beams of which can also be seen sweeping the
sea for miles around. Out to sea is the Kish Lightship.
At Sandycove is the famous "Forty-Foot" bathing
place, a popular resort of swimmers (men only).
Strolling along the Esplanade or East Pier the visitor
will be interested in the monuments to be seen, amongst
others an ornate drinking fountain which commemorates
the last visit of Queen Victoria to Ireland; a granite
obelisk marking the spot where King George IV em
barked for England in 1821; and a monument (on the
East Pier) to Captain Boyd and the crew of the Ajax, who
were drowned in making heroic efforts to save a ship
wrecked crew during the fierce gale of February, 1861.
Some public buildings in the town are also worthy of
attention. St. Michael's Catholic Church, in the Gothic
style, is a splendid edifice, its graceful spire forming a
striking object in the landscape. Other fine ecclesiastical
buildings are the Mariners' Church, overlooking the
Marine Parade, and the Presbyterian Church in York
Road. The Town Hall, facing the Pavilion Gardens, is
also a striking building, containing spacious assembly
rooms, concert haUs, ball-rooms, theatre, and Municipal
Offices. Near the Town Hall are the Post Office and the
Municipal Technical Institute.
In the Civic Waiting Room on Marine Road can be seen
an illuminated map of Dun Laoghaire and district.

COUNTY DUBLIN 129
History. A word on the history of Dun Laoghaire may be of
interest. Its name is derived from the fact that Laoghaire,
a fifth-century king of Ireland, built a "dun" or fort in the
vicinity. Dun Laoghaire means "Laoghaire's Fort."
About a century ago this now splendid and populous
town was a small fishing viUage. In 1834 the railway
connecting Dun Laoghaire with Dublin — the first Irish
railway — was opened; and with the completion of the
harbour (in 1859) and the establishment of the mail-boat
service with Holyhead, the town developed rapidly.
Business premises and residential houses sprang up. The
town had clung to its old name, Dunleary, until 1821,
when it was changed to Kingstown in honour of King
George IV, who visited Ireland in that year. Some years
ago the town reverted to the time-honoured name of Dun
Laoghaire. The town still continues to grow and prosper.
As part of the plan for a "Greater Dublin" it was raised to
the dignity of a borough.
Amusements. Dun Laoghaire i8-hole golf course is adjacent to the
town. There are several tennis clubs where visitors may
play on introduction. A much favoured recreation is boat
ing, in Dublin Bay — rowing boats and motor boats being
available. Dun Laoghaire, it must be mentioned, is the chief
yachting centre in Ireland, with five yacht clubs, three of
which have spacious club-houses at the edge of the har
bour. The principal clubs, each in tum, hold the annual
Regatta, at which the best yachts in Ireland and Great
Britain compete for the valuable prizes offered. Dun
Laoghaire is within fifteen minutes' run from Dublin,
with its numerous places of entertainment.
DALKEY.
This secluded and pleasant resort, two miles farther
along the coast from Dun Laoghaire, is an ideal spot for
the health-seeker or for those who require a restful holi
day. Dalkey consists of the old town and a number of
charming villas situated on the hiUside. In ancient times

130 DUBLIN
it was a place of considerable importance, and the harbour
was much frequented by merchant vessels until the
eighteenth century. At one time seven castles guarded the
harbour. The remains of two castles still exist, one having
been incorporated in the present Town Hall.
Magnificent views of Dublin Bay may be obtained from
Sorrento Terrace, just beyond the station, and also from
Sorrento Park. The atmosphere of Dalkey is extremely
healthful, being notable for its dryness. About a quarter
of a mile offshore is Dalkey Island, where may be seen a
Martello tower on the site of an ancient fort, and frag
ments of a tiny oratory (St. Begnet's Church) in the early
Irish style of eccelesiastical architecture. The district de
rives its name from this island, for the Danes, who had
a fortress here in the tenth century, called it Ddlk'ei,
which has the same meaning as the Irish name. "It is
curious," writes Joyce (P. W.), "that there has been a
fortress on this island from the remotest antiquity to the
present day." The earliest fortress is said to have been
erected by a Milesian chief; this was succeeded by the
Danish fort and there is now the Martello tower.
During the eighteenth century Dalkey Island became
the scene of a burlesque ceremony, a monarch being
elected annually with the title of "His facetious Majesty,
King of Dalkey, Emperor of Muglins, defender of his own
faith and respecter of all others, and Sovereign of the
Illustrious Order of the Lobster and Periwinkle." The
ceremony was suppressed for political reasons, but the
mock coronation has recently been revived and attracts
hundreds of spectators each year.
The famous Father Willie Doyle, S.J., heroic priest who
was killed at the battle of Ypres in 191 7, while serving
as chaplain to the Dublin Fusiliers, was born in Dalkey
in 1873.
Torca Cottage, on the slope of Dalkey HUI, was the
home of George Bernard Shaw from 1866 to 1874, A
plaque commemorating this association is set in the wall
of the cottage.

COUNTY DUBLIN 131
KILLINEY.
Just south of Dalkey is Killiney, delightfully situated,
and boasting a fine beach which affords capital bathing.
Rowing and fishing are other popular recreations here.
Farther along the shore towards Dalkey is the "White
Rock" Cove, another favoured bathing place. On the
slopes of Killiney Hill, near the vUlage, can be seen the
ruins of a very ancient church; nearby is a curious collec
tion of stones known as "The Druid's Chair."
The Vico Road, between Dalkey and Killiney, gives
some splendid views of Killiney Bay, which is justly held
to rival the Bay of Naples. It is well worth climbing
KiUiney HiU (512 ft.), laid out as a public park; the
summit, marked by an obelisk erected in 1741 to give
employment to the poor, commands on every side a series
of incomparable views.
Southward the coastline from Bray Head curves around
Killiney Bay backed by the Big and Little Sugarloaf
mountains and northwards is a fine prospect of Dun
Laoghaire harbour and the great expanse of Dublin Bay
with the singular plateau-like bulk of Howth Head rising
at its northern extremity.
The granite slopes of Dalkey and Killiney show much
evidence of ice action. Most of the stone used in the con
struction of Dun Laoghaire harbour came from the granite
quarries at Dalkey.
The Dalkey-Killiney area, with its undulating tree-
shaded roads and its many superb view-points, affords
opportunities for charming rambles. The beauty of this
region is greatly enhanced by the numerous exotic trees
and shrubs — including palms, eucalyptus, cinerarias and
mimosas — which flourish all the year round in the dry
and equable climate.
RATHFARNHAM AND DISTRICT.
Frequent Bus Services from Nelson Pillar and Burgh
Quay. VUlage about 4 miles from city centre.
Rathfamham, on the southem confines of the city, may
be termed the "Gateway to the Dublin Mountains"
which lie immediately beyond. The aUure which the
Dublin Mountains hold for the outdoor-loving Dubliners

132 DUBLIN
is attributable not only to the obvious attractions to be
found in the beautiful glens hidden away among the hills
and the exhilarating hUl-walking which they provide, but
also in the innumerable panoramic views disclosed from
the green, swelling hill-tops.
Amongst the most spectacular of these views is that
from Kilmashogue, portraying the vast, green-rimmed
city and a huge expanse of Dublin Bay with the long,
well-defined coastline from Dalkey on the south side to
Malahide on the north.
Pleasant rambles in the Rathfamham area may be
started from the bus termini at Tibradden and Grange
Golf Club (Whitechurch).
In 1583, Rathfamham Castle and estates were seized
by the Crown when their owner, James, Viscount
Baltinglass, headed an Irish Catholic insurrection. They
were transferred to Adam Loftus, Protestant Archbishop
of Dublin, who built a magnificent new edifice between
the years 1583 and 1585.
The castle was acquired by the Jesuit Order in 19 13,
since when extensive structural alterations have been made.
It now comprises a square, four-storey building with a
bastion-shaped tower at each corner and a semi-circular
extension on the east side.
At the foot of the Dublin Mountains and about a mile
from Rathfamham is the historic St. Enda's or Sgoil
Eanna, wherein Padraig Pearse founded his Irish speaking
school in 1910. Formerly known as "The Hermitage," this
fine old Georgian mansion had many associations with
Irish patriots, and a tree-lined path in the grounds is stiU
known as "Emmet's Path."
A handsome mansion near Rathfamham has been con
verted into the mother house of the world-famed Institute
of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the building now forming
portion of Loreto Abbey. The mansion was erected in the
early part of the eighteenth century by William Palliser,
wealthy son of the Archbishop of Cashel. It now forms
the centre of an imposing pUe of modem buildings.
Some years ago the Order purchased the adjoining
"Priory" property, once the home of the celebrated
advocate of the United Irishmen, John Philpot Curran,

COUNTY DUBLIN 133
father of Emmet's tragic fiancee. Little more than some
crumbling walls of this historic house now remains.
Loreto Abbey is within a short walking distance of
Rathfamham. The "Hell Fire Club," a prominent landmark on the
summit of Mount Pelier, about 4 mUes from Rathfamham,
is a ruined stone building. It was built about 1725, by the
Right Hon. William Connolly, Speaker of the Irish House
of Commons. In 1 735 the notorious "Hell Fire Club" was
founded in Dublin by the most daring bucks and "bloods"
of the city, and taking possession of Connolly's deserted
house at Mount Pelier, they conducted their macabre
revels at this isolated rendezvous which bears the name of
their club and around which many fanciful tales have
been woven.
A few miles farther into the hills beyond the Hell Fire
Club is the Featherbed Pass, leading to Glencree. The
vast expanse of bog here supplied a very considerable
portion of the city's fuel needs in the years during and
immediately after the second World War, and thousands
of the citizens produced their own turf at the Featherbed.
Charming beyond description are the many other little
beauty spots, all shortly distanced from each other, in this
area. One such place is Glendhu or the Pine Forest, an
ideal centre for outings and picnics. Even more beautiful
is Glenasmole (Glen of the Thrushes), the gem of the
Dublin Mountains, which contains the Bohernabreena
reservoirs of the Dublin Corporation Waterworks. A
permit for entry to Glenasmole may be had on application
ar the City Hall, Dublin. As well as being wondrously
beautiful, the glen has close associations with the legends
of Irish antiquity. Bohernabreena (Bothar na Bruidhne :
The Road of the Bruidhean) was named from the cele
brated Bruidhean Da Derga, Da Derga's house of public
hospitality, which was destroyed by freebooters about the
first century A.D. King Conaire Mor, who was staying
there at the time of the raid, was slain.
DUNDRUM. A south city suburb, is also the centre of a picturesque

134 DUBLIN
district, the Three Rock Mountain (1,479 feet) being a
conspicuous feature.
The Dublin-Enniskerry road, rising gradually beyond
Dundrum by the eastem side of the Three Rock Moun
tain, leads through Sandyford, Stepaside, Golden Ball and
Kilternan, and then carries on to Enniskerry, Co.
Wicklow. Sandyford, a picturesque vUlage steadily developing as
a residential area, is surrounded by some of the finest
scenery in County Dublin. A half-mUe west of Kilternan,
on the mountain side, is one of the largest dolmens in
Ireland. The Scalp, a rocky ravine on the Dundrum-Enniskerry
road is a favourite haunt with cyclists and other excur
sionists. A few miles seawards is Shankill where a wide
beach provides opportunities for bathing and swimming.
It is also a popular camping ground.

WEST COUNTY DUBLIN
This portion of County Dublin, noted for its delightful
scenery, embraces the sylvan beauty of the Liffey valley
and offers much in the way of rural charm. Bordering the
Central Plain of Ireland the district includes such restful
spots as Lucan and Leixlip.
LUCAN. Bus Services frequently from Aston Quay.
Road route via Ormond Quay, Parkgate Street,
Chapelizod. 9 miles.
Charmingly situated in a wooded vale, Lucan is one
of the most popular inland resorts of County Dublin.
Here the woodland scenery which adorns the banks of the
River Liffey is remarkably beautiful.
Following the discovery of the famous Lucan Spas
in the eighteenth century, the place developed into a
fashionable rendezvous; but Lucan's present-day popu
larity is derived mainly from the sylvan beauty and peace
to be found there and from the historic interest which it
holds.

COUNTY DUBLIN 135
In the Lucan Demesne is the old Norman castle
(twelfth century) which was occupied until 1773, and in
which the patriot Patrick Sarsfield was bom. Lucan
Castle was purchased in 1559 by Sir WiUiam Sarsfield,
afterwards Mayor of Dublin. Under the Cromwellian
regime, the estates were confiscated, but eventually after
much trouble, they were retumed after the Restoration
to WiUiam Sarsfield, elder brother of the famous Patrick.
The present Lucan House was built in the second half
of the eighteenth century. It contains work by Adams
and some fine decoration by Angelica Kauffmann.
In recent years the demesne has been acquired by Lucan
Demesne Ltd., and bathing and boating, with ladies' and
gentlemen's dressing accommodation, are provided, whilst
boats may be hired above the weir. Light refreshments
are procurable at "Sarsfield's Cottage." Other objects of
interest are Sarsfield's Tree, the Oratory and the Holy
Well in Grotto House.
The public are admitted from 12 noon on week-days
and from 10 a.m. on Sundays. There is a small charge
for admission; season tickets are available. The public are
not admitted to the mansion or the grounds immediately
surrounding it, but have access to the ruins of the castle
and of the adjoining old church.
Amongst other notable houses in the vicinity of Lucan
is Canon Brook, one-time residence of James Gandon, the
famous architect.
From Lucan it is but a short distance to Leixlip, Co.
Kildare (Danish Lax'hlaup: "Salmon Leap"), now the
site of a hydro-electric station on the River Liffey; or
those interested can visit the adjacent viUage of Clon
dalkin to see the Round Tower, one of the best preserved
structures of the kind in Ireland. St. Brigid's WeU,
Clondalkin, is a place of pilgrimage in the locality. The
well has been enclosed by a wall and a statue of the saint
erected (i95o)'

SPORT AND RECREATION
THE most celebrated event in Dublin's social and
sporting calendar is the great Horse Show of the
Royal Dublin Society. Held early in August, the Show is
almost invariably blessed with superb weather. Indeed the
phrase "Horse-Show weather" is a proverb in Dublin.
At the splendidly equipped grounds in Ballsbridge a
great number of competitions, including the spectacular
jumping competitions, are held during the Show. The
Dublin Horse Show attracts sportsmen and lovers of
horseflesh from every corner of the earth. On "Ladies'
Day" the grounds become a rendezvous for the wealth
and fashion of many countries.
In May is held the Spring Show, at which livestock,
produce and agricultural machinery are exhibited.
Visitors to Dublin enjoy ample facilities for all types
of sport. Many famous race meetings are held in the
vicinity of the metropolis. Stretching away from the city
boundaries are the hunting-grounds of three leading
packs; while the adjacent counties of Meath and Kildare
offer the finest hunting in the world. The golfer, too, is
well catered for. More than twenty courses lie within half
an hour's drive of the city.
Theatres, ballrooms, garden parties and various public
and private functions provide opportunities for social
intercourse and enjoyment.
Racing. On the outskirts of Dublin there are three race
courses : —
I. Phoenix Park (3 mUes). Flat and hurdle racing.
Frequent meetings on Saturdays throughout the summer.
Evening racing during Horse Show Week. Buses from
Aston Quay.
2. Leopardstown (6 miles). Meetings on Saturdays,
as advertised. Buses from College Street. Trains from
Harcourt Street (to Foxrock). 136

SPORT AND RECREATION 137
3. Baldoyle (8 miles). Flat and Steeplechase
Fixtures. Buses from Eden Quay. Trains from Amiens
Street (to Sutton).
The following courses are within easy reach of the
city : —
The Curragh (30 miles), which is the headquarters
of the Irish Turf. Here, on a magnificent plain of 5,000
acres, are situated several of the great training stables, as
well as the famous racecourse. The Irish Derby and other
classic races are run at this venue. Buses from Aston Quay.
Trains from Kingsbridge.
Punchestown (24 miles). The venue of a steeple
chase meeting which is an outstanding event in the Irish
turf calendar. Buses from Aiston Quay. Trains from KingS'
bridge. Naas (20 miles). Flat and steeplechase programmes.
Buses from Aston Quay. Trains from Kingsbridge.
Fairyhouse (15 miles). The venue of a popular
steeplechase meeting on Easter Monday and Tuesday, at
which the Irish Grand National is run. Buses from Aston
Quay. Greyhound Racing (March to October inclusive) is
held at two venues in Dublin — Harold's Cross Park
(buses Nos. 16 and 17), on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Fridays; Shelbourne Park (buses Nos. 2 and 3), on
Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Hunting. Much of County Dublin and the neighbouring counties
of KUdare, Meath and Wicklow is excellent hunting
country, and the hunts listed below meet twice or three
times weekly. The hunting season proper opens in
November and continues to mid-April.
Ward Union Staghounds, Kildare Foxhounds, Meath
Foxhounds, Bray Harriers, Fingal Harriers, Naas Harriers,
North Kildare Harriers, South County Dublin Harriers.
Further information,! including hunting days, names
and addresses of secretaries, etc., may be had on
application to the Irish Tourist Bureau.

138 DUBLIN
Angling. The angling visitor in Dublin has ample facilities.. The
Liffey is a fairly good salmon river, and also affords good
trout fishing. In addition there is coarse fishing for pike
and perch. Many other rivers in the vicinity of the city
provide fairly good brown trout fishing. Open seasons for
rods in the Dublin Fishery District are (dates inclusive):
Salmon and Sea Trout — (a) River Liffey and its lakes
and tributaries, ist Jan. — 30th Sept.; (b) remainder of
District, ist Feb. — 12th Oct. Brown Trout — whole of
District, ist March — 30th Sept.
All waters included in the following list are within
easy reach of Dublin, most of them being accessible by
bus. Licences for salmon and sea trout may be obtained
from the Clerk to the Dublin Board of Conservators,
13-16 Dame Street, Dublin.
Dublin and Lucan. — Given suitable conditions the
River Liffey affords some fairly good salmon fishing.
There is some free fishing, which has to be done from
boats, between Islandbridge and Luttrellstown, but
riparian owners preserve the best fishing parts. For salmon
the best months are from January to May. Spring fish
average about 12 lb., with grilse about 6-7 lb.
For the greater part, the Liffey runs through Co.
Kildare. For brown trout the best stretches are between
Celbridge and MUlicent Bridge, near Clane, a distance of
some six miles. The Dublin Trout Anglers' Association
exercise fishing rights over much of this water. Many
thousands of trout fry have been released annually into
these waters for a number of years. Pike fishing competi
tions are also held by the Association whose fishing rights
are exercised over Ballymore Eustace, Clane, Straffan,
Celbridge, Leixlip. The Association has acquired the fish
ing on the Pollaphuca and Leixlip lake-reservoirs, formed
in connection with the Liffey hydro-electric works.
Tickets to fish any of these waters are obtainable at aU
Dublin City tackle shops. This Association also leases a
portion of the upper Liffey and Brittas River above
Pollaphuca Lake as well as the King's River which enters
the lake itself. The North Kildare Anglers' Association

SPORT AND RECREATION 139
exercise fishing rights on the Liffey from Kilcullen down
stream. Inquiries should be made from the Secretary,
Capt. L. Furlong, Lummville, Curragh, Co. Kildare.
The Dublin Corporation Reservoirs at Bohernabreena
are within five miles of Dublin and are now available to
anglers from ist March to 12th October, inclusive. They
have a record for large trout; fly-fishing only is permitted.
Applications for fishing permits should be sent to the City
Manager and Town Clerk, Waterworks Section, 28 Castle
Street, Dublin. Boats are avaUable for hire on the Lower
Reservoir, Bohernabreena. The Dodder River holds many
small trout.
The River Tolka holds brown trout. The Rye Water,
a tributary of the Liffey, affords very good trout fishing
and also holds pike and perch. Permission to fish should
be obtained from the riparian owners.
Visitors to Dublin may also fish Roundwood Reservoir
(for permits apply to the City Manager and Town Clerk,
Waterworks Section, 28 Castle Street, Dublin) and
Pollaphuca Lake (apply to Hon. Secretary, Dublin Trout
Anglers' Association, or at tackle shops in Dublin City).
Skerries and Balbriggan. — The River Delvin, north
of Balbriggan, is a fair brown trout stream and holds some
sea trout in the lower reaches. Further information may
be had from Balbriggan and Skerries Anglers' Club.
Swords. — The Swords or Broadmeadow River holds
white and brown trout. It is preserved by the Swords
Angling Club. Tickets are issued to members only, who
must accompany visiting anglers.
Sea Fishing. — There is good sea fishing in Dublin Bay
and along the adjacent coast. Convenient centres are
Dalkey, Dun Laoghaire, Howth, Malahide, Rush, Skerries
and Balbriggan. The mackerel fishing is in some years
very good in August and September.

Golf. With more than a score of courses situated in the
neighbourhood of Dublin, golfers are assured of first-class
faculties. These courses are well laid out in charming sur
roundings, most of them are up to championship standards

140 DUBLIN
and more than one of them have an intemational
reputation. The following list includes only i8-hole courses, the
names of the nearest railway stations being given in italics.
(L.C. — Licensed Clubhouse.)
In most clubs substantial reductions in fees are made to
visitors playing with members.
Castle (Rathfamham), S.S.S. 70. 18 holes inland. L.C. No. 17
bus stop, 5 minutes' walk.
Clontarf, S.S.S. 70. 18 holes, inland. L.C. Clontarf- — Path
from station to course. Donnycarney (from Lr. Abbey
Street) or Malahide (from Eden Quay) bus.
CoRBALLis, S.S.S. 66. 18 holes, seaside. Non-L.C. Donabate-
DoNABTE, S.S.S. 68. 18 holes, seaside. L.C. Donabate.
Dun Laoghaire, S.S.S. 68. 18 holes, inland. L.C. Dun
Laoghaire — buses 7A or 8 from Nelson Pillar.
Elm Park (Donnybrook/Booterstown) , S.S.S. 69. 18 holes,
near sea, L.C. Bray bus from Burgh Quay.
Grange (Whitechurch), S.S.S. 70. 18 holes, inland. L.C.
No. 47 bus from Burgh Quay to course.
Hermitage, S.S.S. 73. 18 holes, inland. L.C. Lucan and
Maynooth buses from Aston Quay to course.
HowTH, S.S.S. 69. 18 holes, near sea. L.C. Sutton. — Hill of
Howth tram to course; G.N.R. bus from Eden Quay to
Sutton Cross.
Island (Malahide), S.S.S. 67. 18 holes, seaside. Non-L.C.
Malahide :• No. 42 bus (CLE.) from Eden Qua}'; also
G.N.R. bus from Eden Quay; ferry to course. Visitors must
be accompanied by a member.
Milltown, S.S.S. 71. 18 holes, inland. L.C. Milltown, J mile.
No. 61 bus from Burgh Quay to course; No. 14 bus to
course.
Newlands, (near Clondalkin), S.S.S. 72. 18 holes, inland.
L.C. No. 51 bus from Aston Quay to course.
PoRTsrARNOCK, S.S.S. 74. 18 holes, seaside. L.C. Portmarnock,
i;J miles; G.N.R. bus from Eden Quay to course, ^ mile.
Royal Dublin (DoUymount), S.S.S. 73. 18 holes, seaside.
L.C. No. 30 bus from North Earl Street.
WooDBROOK (near Bray), S.S.S. 70. 18 holes, seaside. L.C.
Woodbrook Halt on course; certain trains stop specially for
golfers; No. 45 bus from Burgh Quay.
There are 9-hole courses at Balbriggan, Carrickmines,
Edmondstown, Foxrock, Killiney, Lucan, Malahide,
Rathfamham, Rush, St. Anne's (DoUymount), Skerries,
and Sutton.

SPORT AND RECREATION 141
Gaelic Games.
Hurling and Gaelic Football (15-aside games) and
Handball (singles or doubles — hard or soft ball) are the
national games. Many of the more important hurling and
football fixtures are staged at Croke Park, Dublin, and
huge crowds are attracted there to the All-Ireland (Inter-
County) Huriing and Football Finals, both held in
September. The inter-provincial finals in hurling and
football, for the Railway Cups, are also held annually at
Croke Park on St. Patrick's Day, 17th March. Important
handball games are played at the Garda Siochana Depot,
Phoenix Park, and at the Croke Park and Crumlin alleys.
Camogie (girls' hurling, 12-aside) is played at Inchi
core, Rathmines, Phoenix Park and, occasionally, Croke
Park.Miscellaneous. Amateur Boxing has a large following in the city, and
international contests are frequently held at the Stadium,
South Circular Road.
Motor and Motor'Cycle Racing. — Dublin is noted as a
venue of intemational motor and motor-cycle events, the
more important of which are held at Phoenix Park,
Tallaght and Skerries.
Rugby Football. — The Irish Rugby Union's ground at
Lansdowne Road is the venue of internationals and other
important games.
Association Football. — There are several first-class
soccer teams in the city. Internationals and other big
games are held at Dalymount Park.
Athletics. — Intemational, championship and other big
athletic meetings are staged regularly at Trinity College
Park, Lansdowne Road Stadium and other grounds in the
city. Swimming and Diving. — Swimming galas, at which the
principal swimming, diving and water-polo events are
decided, are held chiefly at Blackrock Baths.
Yachting. — Dun Laoghaire, with five yacht clubs, is the
chief yachting centre in Ireland. The annual regatta is a
noteworthy event.

142

DUBLIN

Tennis. — There are many tennis clubs and public courts
in and around the city.
Bowls. — Visiting bowlers are welcomed and facilitated
at all greens in the city and suburbs.
Bicycle Polo. — League and practice games are played
in the Phoenix Park.
Other sports and pastimes include : badminton, basket
ball, billiards, cricket, fencing, hockey, polo, roller-skating
and speedway racing.

THEATRES AND CINEMAS

DUBLIN is well supplied with places of entertainment.
Its citizens are noted as keen theatre-goers, and the
metropolis supports the following theatres : —

Abbey. Native Irish Drama.
The Abbey Theatre, Lower Abbey Street, was burned
in July, 1 95 1, and until further notice the company is
staging its productions at the Queen's Theatre, Pearse
Street. Telephone : 74455. Booking Office, Lower Abbey
Street: 44505.
Gaiety, South King Street. Grand Opera, Musical
Comedy, Drama, etc. Telephone : 78205.
Gate, Parnell Square. Modern Drama. Irish Plays.
Telephone : 44045.
Theatre Royal, Hawkins Street. Variety programmes
and pictures. Telephone : 74441.
Olympia, Dame Street. Variety programmes. Modern
Drama. Telephone : 78962.
Queen's, Pearse Street. See Abbey, above.

In O'Connell Street or its immediate vicinity are
situated six of the leading cinemas : Savoy, Carlton.
Capital, Metropole, Adelphi and Ambassador. The Regal
Rooms Cinema is in Hawkins Street; the Grafton in
Grafton Street, and the Stephen's Green Cinema on the
west side of St. Stephen's Green. There is a number of
smaller cinemas in various parts of the city.
143.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Accommodation. Visitors are advised to consult the Official List of
Registered Premises issued by Bord Fdilte &reann. Copies
of this list, which sets out accommodation avaUable,
maximum charges, etc., can be had free from any of the
Irish Tourist Bureaux.
Tourist Bureau.
Holiday information and literature as well as advice
concerning itineraries, etc., can be obtained at the Irish
Tourist Bureau, 14 Upper O'Connell Street, Telephone :
44718/19/10.
Transport. (^5gg p. 112 for local services)
Rail and Road. — Dublin is the principal terminus of
the Irish railway systems, and is connected with all parts
of the country by services from the following stations : —
Amiens Street and Westland Row (CLE.), for trains to
Dun Laoghaire, Dalkey, KUIiney, Bray and south-east
coast. Westland Row, for Galway, Sligo, and stations in
the west of Ireland.
Kingsbridge (CLE.), for Cork, Killarney, Limerick,
Waterford and stations in the south and south-west.
Harcourt Street (CLE.), for Bray, Greystones, Wick
low, Wexford, Rosslare Harbour.
Amiens Street (G.N.R.), for Belfast, Derry, Donegal,
etc. From Busaras, Central Bus Station, Store Street, Coras
lompair fiireann (CLE.) maintains regular bus services to
almost all districts south and west of Dublin. All informa
tion from the company's Road Passenger Services Depart
ment, 59 Upper O'Connell Street; or from the Telephone
Information Bureau for Train and Bus Passengers (Dublin
45867) ; also Information Centre (kiosk) at Nelson Pillar,
O'Connell Street. Time-tables are available.

GENERAL INFORMATION 145
The Great Northern Railway Board operates simUar
services (from Eden Quay and Busaras, Store Street) to
various places north of Dublin. Time-tables and full par
ticulars of rail and road services from the company's city
office, 2 Lower O'ConneU Street.
Air Services. — In addition to the Cross-Channel
European and Trans-Atlantic air services, there is a service
from Dublin to Shannon Airport. Charter air services are
also available.
Cars and Taxi'Cabs. — Taxis may be hired at various
ranks throughout the city as follows : —

Place

Telephone No.

Hours of
Attendance

Amiens Street

Dublin 43288

8 a.m. — 8 p.m.

(near Station)

Continuous

Aston Quay

.. 78053

,,

Burgh Quay

78191

, ,

College Green

(Foster Place)

.. 77440

J ,

College Street

78914

,,

Eden Quay

.. 77054

,,

Harcourt Street Station

., 54693

Lansdowne Road,
Ballsbridge
64012
,,
Malahide Road (Crescent)
.. 336507
9 p.m. — 6 a.m.
Eccles Street
(opp. Mater Hospital)
78870
Continuous
O'Connell Street, Upper
7829C
O'Connell Street, Lower
(near Pillar) .
44491
,,
Ranelagh (Angle)
.. 92735
8 a.m. -midnight
Rathmines Road, Upper
93276
Continuous
St. John's Road (near
79121
8 a.m. ^8 p.m.
Kingsbridge Station)
St. Stephen's Green (near
62847
Continuous
Merrion Row)
St. Stephen's Green, North .
,. 67381
,,
Westland Row Station
73001
"
146 DUBLIN
Maps. Ordnance Survey half-inch sheets 13 (north County
Dublin) and 16 (south County Dublin). Bartholomew's
quarter-inch sheet No. 2. Also avaUable are the O.S.
2|-inch plan of Dublin City and one-inch sheet No. 112
or special Dublin District sheet on the scale of i inch to
1 mile.
Banks. The principal banks in Dublin are : —
The Bank of Ireland, the Hibernian Bank, the Mwn-
ster and Leinster Bank, the National Bank, the National
City Bank, the Provincial Bank and the Royal Bank. The
head offices of these establishments are in College Green
— except the Munster and Leinster Bank (head office,
Cork) and the National Bank and Provincial Bank (head
offices, London). There are sub-offices throughout the
city and suburbs. Other banking establishments with
branches in Dublin are : the Northern Banking Co. and
the Ulster Bank.
Hours of business : Week-days, 10 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.
and 1.30 p.m. to 3.30 p.m. Saturdays, 9.30 to 11,30 a.m.
Postal Information.
At the General Post Office, O'Connell Street, the hours
of business are : —
Sale of stamps, acceptance of telegrams, registered
letters and express letters 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day,
Sundays and Bank Holidays included.
All other classes of business — 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. — Monday
to Saturday (inclusive).
On Sundays and Bank Holidays, Poste Restante corres-
spondence is available for callers between the hours of
8 a.m. and 8 p.m.
Branch offices are located in principal streets, and are
usually open from 9 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. on week-days.
There are three deliveries of letters daily in the city.
Churches. Catholic : At the principal churches there are frequent
Masses on Sunday momings from 6 or 7 o'clock untU 12,

GENERAL INFORMATION 147
and on week-days untU 11. High Mass at the Pro-
Cathedral, and elsewhere, at noon on Sundays. The
following are some of the principal Catholic churches in
the city : —
Pro-Cathedral, Marlborough Street.
St. Andrew's Westland Row.
St. Audoen's, High Street.
St. Joseph's, Berkeley Road.
St. Kevin's, Harrington Street.
St. Mary's, Haddington Road.
Our Lady of Refuge, Rathmines Road.
Catholic University Church, St. Stephen's Green.
Augustinian Church, Thomas Street.
Carmelite Church, Whitefriars Street.
Carmelite Church, Clarendon Street.
Dominican Church, Lower Dominick Street.
Franciscan-Capuchin Church, Church Street.
Franciscan Church, Merchants' Quay.
Jesuit Church, Upper Gardiner Street.
Passionist Church, Mount Argus, Harold's Cross.
Vincentian Church, Phibsborough.
Church of Ireland : The times of Sunday services at
most Protestant places of worship are 11.30 a.m. and 7
p.m. The following are some of the principal churches of
the Church of Ireland in Dublin.
St. Patrick's Cathedral.
Christ Church Cathedral.
Dublin University Chapel.
St. Andrew's, St. Andrew Street.
St. Ann's, Dawson Street.
St. Bartholomew's, Clyde Road.
St. George's, Temple Street.
St. Thomas's, Marlborough Street.
Presbyterian : Chief places of worship are as follows: —
Abbey Church, Parnell Square.
Adelaide Road.
Lower Abbey Street.
Donore Church, South Circular Road.
Clontarf Church, Howth Road.
Christ Church, Rathgar.
Sandymount.
Methodist : Places of worship are situated at
Lower Abbey Street.

148 DUBLIN
Rathmines. Rathgar.St. Stephen's Green.
South Great George's Street.
Dolphin's Barn.
Clontarf. Sandymount.
Sunday services at 11.30 a.m. and 7 p.m.
Baptist : Churches at
Grosvenor Road, Rathmines.
Phibsborough, North Circular Road.
Sunday Services at 11.30 a.m. and 7 p.m.
Christian Science :
Lower Baggot Street.
Rathmines Park.
Society of Friends :
5 Eustace Street.
Pakenham Road, Monkstown.
82 Lower Churchtown Road.
Major Jewish Synagogues :
Dublin Hebrew Congregation, Adelaide Road.
United Hebrew Congregation, Grenville Hall, S. C. Road.
Terenure Hebrew Congregation, Leoville, Rathfamham.
Moravian :
Rathgar.
Kevin Street.
Congregational :
Kilmainham .
Unitarian St. Stephen's Green.

Diplomatic and Consular Offices in Dublin.
America, United States of. — American Embassy and
American Consulate-General, 15 Merrion Square.
Telephone 65682.
Argentine. — Argentine Legation, 15 Ailesbury Drive,
Ballsbridge. Telephones 62309; 60440.

GENERAL INFORMATION 149
Australia, Commonwealth of. — Australian Embassy, 33
Fitzwilliam Square. Telephone 67294.
Austria. — Austrian Legation (Rue Beaujon 15, Paris
Vlir. Telephones CAR 2573; 2630).
Belgium.— Belgia.n Legation. Shrewsbury House, Shrews
bury Road. Telephone 63322.
Brazil. — Brazilian Consulate, 81 Merrion Road,
Ballsbridge. Telephone 64966.
Burma. — Burmese Consulate, 21 Molesworth Street.
Telephone 62087.
Canada. — Canadian Embassy, 92 Merrion Square. Tele
phone 62247. Office of Commercial Counsellor, 66
Upper O'Connell Street. Telephone 44251.
Denmark. — Royal Danish Consulate-General, Pearl
Chambers, 35 Westmoreland Street. Telephone
72655.
Estonia. — Estonian Vice-Consulate, 1-2 Upper O'Connell
Street. Telephone 46721.
Finland. — Finnish Vice-Consulate, 20 Eden Quay.
Telephone 43904.
France. — French Embassy (Telephone 63286) and Con
sular Service (Telephone 60326), 53 Ailesbury Road.
Office of Commercial Counsellor, 20 Upper
Fitzwilliam Street. Telephone 61230.
Germany, Federal Republic of. — German Legation, 41
AUesbury Road. Telephone 6071 1.
Great Britain. — British Embassy, 39 Merrion Square.
Telephone 65196. Office of Trade Commissioner, 69
Merrion Square. Telephone 65678. Visa Section, 30
Merrion Square. Telephone 65676.
Greece. — Royal Greek Consulate, Commercial Buildings,
Dame Street. Telephone 78917.
Guatemala. — Guatemalan Consulate, Wood Printing
Works, 49 Wolfe Tone Street. Telephone 77783.
Holy See. — The Apostolic Nunciature, Phoenix Park.
Telephone 71030.
Iceland. — Icelandic Consulate, 11 WeUington Quay,
Dublin. Telephone 79097.
India. — Indian Embassy (India House, Aldwych, London,
W.C. 2. Telephone Temple Bar 8484).

150 DUBLIN
Italy. — Italian Legation, 12 Fitzwilliam Square. Telephone
62401.
Latvia. — Latvian Consulate, 41-48 Wolfe Tone Street,
Telephone 451 01.
Monaco. — Consulate of Monaco, 7 Suffolk Street.
Telephone 771 10.
Netherlands. — Netherlands Legation, 71 Merrion Square.
Telephone 6571 1.
Norway. — Royal Norwegian Legation (10 Palace Green,
London, W.8. Telephone Western 5 121). Royal
Norwegian Consulate, 20 Eden Quay, Dublin.
Telephone 43904.
Panama. — Consulate, 20 Eden Quay. Telephone 43904.
PerM. — Peruvian Consulate-General, Commercial BuUd-
ings, Dame Street. Telephone 78357.
Poland. — Polish Consulate General, i Fitzwilliam Square,
Telephone 65690.
Portugal. — Portuguese Legation, 14 Ailesbury Road.
Telephone 64253. Portuguese Vice-Consul, 65 Mid.
Abbey Street. Telephone 44714.
San Domingo. — San Dominican Consulate, Inchaguill,
76 Merrion Road, Ballsbridge. Telephone 64989.
South Africa. — Hon, Trade Commissioners Office, 30
Bachelor's Walk. Telephone 43716.
Spain. — Spanish Embassy, Ailesbury House, Merlyn Park.
Telephone 60308.
Sweden. — Swedish Legation, 31 Merrion Road.
Telephone 63464.
Switzerland. — Swiss Legation, 40 Elgin Road. Telephone
64257.
Turkey. — Turkish Consulate, 122 St. Stephen's Green W.
Telephone 51424
Uruguay. — Uruguayan Vice-Consulate, 34 Kildare Street.
Telephone 61358.
Newspapers. Morning : "Irish Independent," "Irish Press," "Irish
Times." Evetiing : "Evening H e r a 1 d," "Evening MaU,"
"Evening Press.'

GENERAL INFORMATION 151
Baths (Public) in Dublin City and Suburbs.
Tara Street Baths, Dublin City.
Open (at the times stated below) all the year round,
except for a period of two or three weeks after Christmas.
First Class Swimming Pond (Male only). Week-days
10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Summer Season, — Men, 8d.; boys, 4d.;
club members (on production of Members' Cards), 6d.
Winter Season (water heated). — Men, lod.; boys, ^d.;
club members (on production of Members' Cards), 6d.
Second Class Swimming Pond (Male only). Week
days, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Summer. — Men, 4d.; boys, 2d,
Winter (water heated). — Secondary School boys (accom
panied by teacher), by arrangement, 2d.
Ladies' Day, Monday, 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Charges as fore
going. Bookings are accepted from swimming clubs (male and
female) for the exclusive use of the ponds from 7 p.m.
tUl 10 p.m. at hourly intervals. Mixed bathing is not
permitted. Every Saturday during the school year Primary School
boys and girls, with teacher, have the exclusive use of the
ponds at both Tara Stret and Iveagh Baths for the
nominal charge of id.
Wartn Reclining Baths are avaUable every week-day
throughout the year, except during the period mentioned
above. Monday to Friday, is. 3d.; Saturday, is. 6d.
Iveagh Baths, Bride Road, Patrick Street.
One swimming pond, open week-days i p.m. to 7 p.m.;
Saturdays, 10 a.m. to i p.m. Ladies' day, Tuesday.
Adults, IS. od.; children, 6d. (winter). Adults, 8d.;
children, 4d. (summer).
Dun Laoghaire Bathing Establishments (County Dublin).
Open Sea Baths : —

152 DUBLIN
Near Blackrock Railway Station. (Telephone : Dun
Laoghaire 852061).
Marine Parade, Dun Laoghaire. (Telephone : Dun
Laoghaire 81575).
Sandycove Avenue, West, Sandycove.
Open. — First week in June to last week in September
(approx.) Hours. — Week-days : 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays :
10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Present charges for all three baths are as follows : —
Adults (16 years and over), 6d. (except Sandycove, 4d.).
Children (under 16), 3d. Spectators, 3d. Season Tickets :
Adults, 32s. 6d.; children (under 16 years), 22s. 6d. A
25 per cent, reduction is allowed on adults' season tickets
purchased after 15th July.
There are separate dressing sections for males and
females, but bathers are not restricted to the use of any
special pool or tank of the baths; mixed bathing is
allowed. Hot Baths. — Marine Parade, Dun Laoghaire. (Tele
phone : Dun Laoghaire 81575).
Open. — June-October (week-days only) ; November-
about mid-March (Fridays and Saturdays only.)
Hours. — 1 1 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Present charges. — Reclining Baths (recommended by
the medical profession for rheumatism, sciatica, lumbago
and all kindred aUments): — Hot Baths (sea water),
2s. 6d.; Russian Steam Baths, 4s. Hot Bath (fresh water),
2S. Cold Bath, is. Special Seaweed Bath, 4s. These rates
will be reduced by 25 per cent, for children.
Clontarf Baths Ltd.
123A Clontarf Road, Dublin. (Telephone : Dublin
335750). Charges. — Cold Swimming Baths : Adults, 6d.:
ChUdren, 4d. Saturday and Sunday, Adults, 8d.; ChUd-
ren, 6d. Hot Sea Water Baths and Seaweed Baths, 2/6.
Open May to September, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday to
Friday; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday; 9 a.m. to i p.m. and
2.30 p.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday. Pool 50 yds. x 33 yds.
Water Polo matches and swimming races every week.

GENERAL INFORMATION

153

Climate. The climate of Dublin is mUd and somewhat relaxing,
being free from extremes of heat and cold. It will be seen
from the figures quoted here that the annual range of
mean temperature is smaU (less than 19°), and that the
rainfall is moderate.
Even in April and October the temperature rarely falls
much below 50°. Temperatures above 80° in the shade
nearly always coincide with winds off the land, so that
oppressive heat is rarely experienced.

Month

Average

Rainfall

Hours of

Temperature

(Inches)

Sunshine

January

4i°.7

2.21

58

May

52". 2

1.97

212

June

57°-9

1.99

196

July

60°. 5

2.68

169

August

59°-7

3-24

164

September

55°-9

2.21

143

October

49° -5

2.87

109

December

42°. 0

2.25

52

Some Books About Dublin.
Chart, D. A. Story of Dublin (Medieval Town Series),
1932.
Cole, G. H., and Praeger, R. L. Handbook of City of
Dublin, 1908.
Cosgrave, E. McD., and Strangways, L. R. Dictionary
of Dublin, 1895.
Georgian Society, Dublin. Records of i8th Century
Domestic Architecture and Decoration, 1-4, 1909-12.
Harvey, John. Dublin, 1949.
Hayward, Richard. Leinster and the City of Dublin, 1949
Joyce, W. St. J. The Neighbourhood of Dublin, 1939.
Longford, Lady C Biography of Dublin, 1937.
Maxwell, C. Dublin Under the Georges (1936)-
Whelpton, Eric. The Book of Dublin, 1948.
Yee Chiang. The Silent Traveller in Dublin, 1953.

INDEX

Abbey Theatre

PAGE
28, 57.
107, 143
Act of Union . 27, 83, 87
Accommodation 144
Addison, Joseph 100
Advanced Studies,
Dublin Institute for 56
Aideen's Grave 119
Air Services . . 145
America, Discovery of 12
Angling . . 138
Anlgo-Norman Invasion . 15
Arbour Hill Detention
Barracks . 109
Ardilaun, Lord 100
Aras an Uachtarain 99
Aras Mhic Dhiarmada . 90
Ashe, Thomas . 56
Ath Cliath 10, 13, 31, 109
Baily Lighthouse 118, 128
Balbriggan . . .125
Baldoyle Racecourse . 137
Baldungan Castle 125
Ballsbridge . 136
Balscadden . . 120
Baltinglass, Viscount . 132
Bank of Ireland 7, 86, 87
Banks, Dublin . 146
Bamagearagh Bay . 125
Barrington, Sir Jonah 34, 37
Barry, Kevin in
Barry, Spranger 26
Baths, Public 151
Belvedere House 108
Berkeley, Bishop 54, 88
Blackrock . . 126, 152
Blessington, Countess of 44
Bluecoat School 24
Bohernabreena 133
Bond, Oliver . 52
Book of Kells . 61
Books About Dublin 153
Boswell MSS. . 121
Botanic Gardens 100
Boyle, Richard . 49

PAGE
Boyle, Robert 49
Brian Boru 13-14
Brown, Archbishop . 21
Brugha, Cathal . 56, 118
Bruighean Da Derga . 133
Burgh, Hussey . 86
Burke, Edmund 41,43, 55,
83, 88, 102, 109
Burke, Martin . . 36
Burke-Shridan, Margaret 59
Bushe, Chas. Kendal 35, 83
Butt, Isaac . 32, 84
Canals, Construction of . 27
Carmelite Friary . . 106
CarroU, Paul Vincent . 58
Carson, Edward . 84
Cassels, Richard .26, 89, 108
Castlereagh, Lord . 27, 35
"Cathach," The . 64, 78
Catholic Emancipation . 27
Catholic University Church 37
Central Catholic Library 67
Central Students' Library 67
Charlemont House . 44
Charlemont, Lord 44, 82, 87
Chester Beatty Library . 65
Chesterfield, Lord 81, 91, 98
Chichester House . . 86
Chichester, Sir Arthur 86
Childers, Erskine . 118
Christ Church Cathedral
14, 17, 20, 25, 47, 147
Church of Corpus Christi in
Church of the Most Holy
Trinity . 92
Churches, List of . 146
(See also under "St.")
Cinemas . . 143
City Hall 93
Civic Museum 80
Climate of Dublin 153
Cloncurry, Lord 35
Clondalkin 135
Clonmell, Lady 37
Clontarf, Battle of 13

154

INDEX

155

College Green 39, 86, 88, 102
College of Science . 104
Collins Baracks 109
Collins, Michael in
CoUinstown 116
Colt Island . 1 24
Colum, Padraic . 58
Comyn, Archbishop 18, 48
Conciliation Hall 107
Confederation of Kilkenny 23
Congreve, William . 55
Conn of the Hundred
Battles . 10
Connolly, Rt. Hon.
William ("Speaker") 133
Connradh na Gaedhilge
(See Gaelic League)
Consular Offices 148
Coombe, The 105
Corn Exchange, The 107
Corr Castle . 119
Croke, Archbishop ¦ 56
Croke Park . 112, 141
Croker, John Wilson 35
Cromwell, Oliver 23
Cross of Cong . 78
Crow Street Theatre 26, 39
CuUenswood 18
Curragh Racecourse . 137
Curran, John Philpot 35, 49,
86, no, 132
Custom House 27, 30, 89, 109

29. 30

39. 3536

Dail Eireann
Dalkey
Daly's Club
Dame Street
Dargan, Wm.
Davis, Thomas
Dawson Street
Deane, Sir Thomas
Declaration of Indepen
dence 9. 30, 33
de Cogan, Miles 16
de Lacy, Hugh
Dillon, John 33
Diplomatic and Consular
Representatives . .
Doyle, Fr. WiUie S.P. .
Drapier Letters 8, 26, 41

. 33
129 38
104
,69, 84
33

. 97
. r7 17
.84 148
130
, 42

PAGE
Dubh-Ghaill 1 1
Dubh-Linn 10
Dublin Airport 112, 116
Dublin Castle gi
Dublin Chamber of
Commerce . 7
Dublin Horse Show 81, 136
Dublin Institute for
Advanced Studies 56
Duffy, Gavan 36
Dun Laoghaire 126, 151
Dunsink Observatory 57, 112, 116
Dun, Sir Patrick 52
Easter Week Rising (See
Rising of 1916)
Eblana . lo
Ely Place 35
Emmet, Robert 37, 42.
52, 83, 105
Emmet, Thos. Addis 37
Esposito, Commendatore 59
Eucharistic Congress,
1932 9. 31
Fairyhouse Racecourse . 135
Farquhar, George . 55
Father Mathew Bridge 109
Faulkner, George . 41
Featherbed Pass 133
Feis Ceoil 58
Feltrim HiU 123
Ferguson, Sir Samuel 43, 119
Field, John 7
Fionn-Ghaill 1 1
Fitzgerald, George F. 59
Fitzgerald, Lord Edward
33, 36, 42, 50, 51
Fitzgerald, Raymond (le
Gros) . 16, 17
Fitzgerald , ' ' Silken
Thomas" . . 21
Fitzgibbon Cove, Howth 120
Fitzgibbon, John, Earl
of Clare . 35
Fitzmaurice, George 58
Fitzwilliam Square 35, loi
Flood, Henrj- 86

156
Foley, John Henry

'Ford of the Hurdles'

INDEX

PAGE
40, 99
01, 102

The

' 'Forty-Foot'
Foster, John .
Foundation of Dublin
Four Courts, The 27,
94, 109,
Four Masters 10, 64,
Franciscan Library
Freeman's Journal
Gaelic Games
Gaelic League
Gandon, James

44
26,
90, 94,
Garda Siochana Depot

95

44.

29.

60

and Headquarters
Garrick, David
Gate Theatre
Geminiani Genealogical Office
General Post Office
Geraldines 17,
Gibbons, Grinling
Gilbert, Sir John
Giraldus Cambrensis
Glasnevin Cemetery
Glenasmole Glencree
Glendhu Glenmama, Co. Wicklow
Goldsmith, Oliver 55,
GolfGovernment Buildings

Grafton Street 24
Grattan, Henry
Graves, Robert
Gray, Sir John
Gre3?hound Racing
Griffith, Arthur
Guinness's Brewery

109128 39 II
30,
112
III 6553
141
. 55
86,
135
. 99
26
143 58 92
, 96
. 50
95 68 16
no133 133
133 13
102
139 34
102 27.
102 59 40
137
29, III
7. 42, 105

38, 26,
86, 34.

Guinness, Sir Benjamin
Lee 50
Gulliver's Travels 42
Hackney Cars 145
Hamilton, Sir ^^'illiam
Rowan 59
Handel 7, 26, 51, 58

Harcourt Street
Hasculf .
"Hell-Fire Club" .
Hemans, Mrs. Felicia
Henry II
Heraldic Museum
Herbert Park
"Hermitage," The
Hibernian Catch Club
Higgins, Francis
("The Sham Squire")
Hogan, John
Hoggen, Green
Horse Racing
Horse Show [See Dublin
Horse Show)
Howth 16,
Howth Gun-Running
Huguenot Cemetery
Hunting Hj'de, Dr. Douglas 9, 31

PAGE 37 16
133
.36¦ 17
, 92
lOI
132
. 59

3638
22, 24
136

117118 36
137 32,

56, 84, 92
Iceland, Links between
Dublin and 12
Ireland's Eye 120
Irish Folklore Commission 87
Irish Free State, The 31
85, 87, in
Irish Manufactures, Per
manent Exhibition of 102
Irish National League 41
Irish People Newspaper 41
Irish Republican Army 30
Irish Volunteers . 29, 44,
97, 106, 118
Iveagh House . 36
Jacob's Biscuit Factorv 106
James II . 25
Johnson, Esther (See
"Stella")
Johnston, Denis
Johnston, Francis 26, 92,
Joly, Prof. John
Jones, Archbishop
Joyce, James 45, 55,

.Kauffmann, Angelica
Kenure Park, Rush

91

58 96
59 49 84
26,
135123

Kettle, Tom
Kildare, Earls of
Kildare Street
Killiney .
Kilmainham Prison
KilmashogueKilternan Kilwarden, Lord
King's Inns Library
Kinsale, Battle of
Kish Lightship

PAGE 842033
131
. 96
132134 426522
128

Lalor, James Fintan no
Lambay Island 11, 121, 123
Lane, Sir Hugh 32, 69, 73
Lauri, Cardinal . 32
Lecky, W. E. H. 60, 84
le Decer, John . 53
Le Fanu, Joseph Sheridan 34. 55. 84
Leinster House 33, 103
Lexilip . . 16, 135
Leopardstown Race
course . 136
Lever, Charles 54
Liberty Hall . 107
Literary and Historical
Society, Univ. College 84
Loftus, Archbishop 132
Loreto Abbey 132
Loughshinny 125
Lover, Samuel 39, 49
Lucan 134
Lucan, Demesne 135
Lucas, Charles 52
Lusk 123
McCormack, John 32, 59
MacDermott, Sean 90
MacDonagh, Thomas 29, 106
Macklin, Charles 26
MacMurrough, Art 19, 20
MacMurrough, Dermot 15, 16
MacSwiney, Terence 56
Mahafiy, John Pentland 60
Malahide ¦ i^o
Malone, Edmund • 60
Maloney, Sir Thomas 84
Mangan, James Clarence
^ 41. 43. 54
Mannix, Archbishop 32

INDEX 157
PAGE
Mansion House 33, 97
Maps . . 146
Marsh's Library 64
Martyn, Edward 70, 96
Mater Misericordiae
Hospital . .HI
Mathew, Father Theobald 40
Mediaeval Dublin 18
Merrion . 126
Merrion Square 34, 104
Merrion Street, Upper 34, 104
Messiah, The (See Handel)
Mileages from Dublin 114
Minot, Archbishop 48
Mogh, King . . 10
Molyneux, William 25, 53
Moore, George 35, 55
Moore, Thomas 38, 54,
83, 106
Morgan, Lady 33, 54
Mornington House . 35
Mountjoy Prison in
Mount Pelier . 133
Moyne Institute 89
Municipal Gallery of
Modern Art . 72
Municipal Libraries 67
Murray, T. C. . 58
Musick Hall, The 26, 58

Naas Racecourse 137
National Gallery 69
National Library 62
National Maternity
Hospital . 103
National Museum . 76
National Portrait Gallery 72
Nelson Pillar . . .41
Newman, Cardinal 37, 84
O'Carolan, Turlough 49
O'Casey, Sean . 57
O Ceallaigh, Se4n T. 32, 56
O'Connell Bridge . 106
O'Connell, Daniel 8, 28,
34, 40, no
O'Connell Street . 29, 30,
40, 107, 108
O'Connor, Roderick 16
O'Connor, Rory 30

1 58 INDEX
PAGE
O'Curry, Eugene 43
O'Donnell, Cardinal 56
O'Donnell, Red Hugh 92
O'Donovan, John 43
O'Growney, Father . 56
O'Haingli, Bishop Samuel 51
O'Higgins, Kevin in
Oireachtas Library 66
O'Leary, Father Peter 32, 56
O'Neill, Owen Roe 23
Ormond, Dukes of .21,
^,„ 23, 24, 95
O Rourke, Tiernan 15, 17
Ostmen , 1 1
Our Lady's Choral
Society 5g
Oxmantown 16

Pale, The . ig
Palestrina Choir, Pro-
Cathedral 96
Palmerston Park . loi
Parliament House (Old) 26,
27, 86
Parnell, Charles Stewart 28,
32, 52, no
Parnell Monument 40
Parnell Square 43, loi, 108
Parnell, Thomas . 100
Pearse, Padraig . 29, 39,
56, 106, 132
People's Gardens, The . g8
Permanent Exhibition of
Irish Manufactures 102
Petrie, George 38, 43, 60, no
Phoenix Park 7, 24, log, 136
Phoenix Park Racecourse 98, 134
Pine Forest 133
Plunket, William
Conyingham . 36
Population of Dublin 7
Portlester, Baron 52
Portmarnock . 121
Postal Information 146
Powerscourt House 38
Pro-Cathedral, The
Catholic . . .96
Provost Marshal's Prison
(Old) . 109

PACE
Provost's House, Trinity
College . . 39, 89
Ptolemy the Geographer 10
Public Record Office 63, 94
Pue, Richard . . 41
Punchestown Racecourse 137

Racecourses

136

Rathfamham

131

Redmond, John

29

32

Reformation, The

21

Richard II

20

47

Richardson, George

36
Rising of 1916 6, 8,
29.
55.
96, 97, 107, 108,
no
Robinson, Joseph
58
Robinson, Lennox
58
Robinson, Sir William
95
Rockabill Lighthouse
125
Rotunda, The
44
Rotunda Gardens
43
Rotunda Hospital .
7
44
Royal Dublin Society
33
66
81
Royal Hospital, The
24
94
Royal Irish Academy
34.
56,
63
76
82
Royal Irish Academy
of
Music
58
Royal Society of Anti
quaries of Ireland
76
83
Rush
123
St. Andrew's Church 104
St. Ann's Church 34, 103
St. Audoen's Arch . . 53
St. Audoen's Church 52
SS. Augustine and John,
Church of 105
St. Catherine's Church 42, 105
St. Doulagh's Church . 122
St. Enda's . 132
St. Laurence O'Toole 15, 16
St. Mary's Abbey . .15,
21, 24, 106
St. Michan's Church 51, 109
St. Mobhi's Well and
Oratory . -125
St. Nessan' s Church,
Ireland's Eye 120
INDEX

159

PAGE
St. Patrick's aCthedral . n,
18, 48, 104, 147
St. Patrick's Hospital 42, 105
St. Patrick's Island
(or Church Island) 125
St. Patrick visits Dublin 10
St. Patrick's Well, Dublin n
St. Peter's Church,
Phibsboro' . no
St. Sepulchre's (Marsh's)
Library . 64
St. Stephen's Green 24,
36, 100, 102
St. Werburgh's Church 50
Salmon, Geo. 32, 59
Sandycove . 128, 152
Sarsfield, Patrick . 135
Scalp, The 134
Scandinavian Kingdom
of Dublin . 12, 16
Schomberg, Duke of 49
Scott, Sir Walter 36
Seapoint 126
Shankill . 134
Shaw, George Bernard 32,
45. 55. 130
Sheares, John and Henry 36, 52
Sheehy Skeffington,
Francis 84
Shelbourne Hotel . 36
Shelle^r, Percy Bysshe 38, 40
Shenick's Island . 124
Sheppard, Oliver 97
Sheridan, Richard
Brinsley 38, 44, 55, 100
Sheils, George 58
Siddons, Mrs. 26
Simnel, Lambert 21, 47
Sinn F^in 29, 37
Sirr, Major 42, 51, 62
Sitric 14. 46
Skerries .124
Smock Alley Theatre 26, 39
"Speranza" (Lady
Wilde) 40. 55
State Paper Office . 92
Steele, Richard 100

PAGE
"Stella" (Esther
Johnson) 42, 49, 100, 105
Stephens, James . 55
Stoker, Bram . 84
Stokes, William . 34, 59
Strongbow . 15, 17, 47
Sullivan, Barry . no
Sutton, Co. Dublin . 118
Swift, Jonathan 8, 26, 42,
49, 54, 65, 88, 100, 105
Swords, Co. Dublin . 123
Synge, J. M. 29, 57
Tabary, James 95
Tabular History 8
Talbot, Matt 43
Taxi Cabs 145
Theatres . .143
Thingmote, The 16, 17, 104
Thomas Street 42, 104
Three Rock Mountain . 134
Thwaites, Augustine 7
Tickell, Thomas 100
Tobar Phddraig
(St. Patrick's Well) n
Tone, Theobald Wolfe . 27,
44, 62, 83, 109
Torca Cottage . 130
Tourist Bureau . 144
Transport Services 112- 14,
144-5
Treaty of 1921 . 9,
30, 94, 103
Trinity College . 22, 88
Trinity College Historical
Society . . .83
Trinity College
Library 62, 88
Truce of 1921 30, 34, 97
Tyrconnell, Earl of 24
Tyrone House 43, 108
Union, Act of 27, 83, 87
United Irish League . 41
United Irishmen 27, 42, 132
University College,
Dublin . 30, 84, 103,
University College
Library . 66

i6o

INDEX

PAGE

PAGE

" Vanessa" (Esther

Whyte, Samuel

38

Vanhomrigh)

• 25

Wilde, Oscar

34. 40. 55

Vanhomrigh,

Wilde, Sir William
40, 55
Bartholomew
25
William III .
• 25
Vikings
II
Woffington, Peg
26
Warbeck, Perkin ,
Ware, Sir James
21
59
Wood's Halfpence
Worth Library
8, 42
66
Wars of the Roses
Water Supply, Dublin
Wellington, Duke of
2028
34. 38
Yeats, W. B.
Yelverton, Barry
28, 57
83
Wellington Monument
¦ 99
Whaley, Buck
• 37
Zoological Gardens
7. 99
X_r
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HOTELS AND GUEST HOUSES PAGE
Abbey Hotel, Dun Laoghaire . 179
Ardeen Hotel, Dun Laoghaire 178
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Clarence Hotel, Dublin 167
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•
MISCELLANEOUS
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162

FordS

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Phone 40461/2/3. ' Walden, Dublin."

163

pROYAL^ EXCHANGE

HOTEL

Parliament Street
Dublin
Telephone 72160

O'Kttfftt 820
164

DUBLIN

GROSVENOR HOTEL
(Opposite Westland Row Station)

THE DIRECT POINT OF ARRIVAL
AND DEPARTURE BETWEEN
IRELAND AND ENGLAND.

H. & C. ALL BEDROOMS
Fully Licensed.

Tel. Grams:
725851 a 72511 "grosvenor hotel,
(VUUors) iRtceplioni DUBLIN."

83&
165

Where is it ?
What mountain is that ?
Hoiv far is it to the next village ?
MAPS
are the answer !

Maps suitable
for
Motoring Cycling
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maps of
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Wicklow
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1 66

CLAfiENCE HOTEL

WELLINGTON QUAY
DUBLIN
Telephone 76178

167

820

WYNN'S HOTEL

LR. ABBEY STREET, DUBLIN
Telephone 45131

O'Kt'fft's

1 68

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169

SOCIETY
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170

A Guide to Banking . . .
Any of the 200 Branches and Sub'Branches of
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BANK LIMITED

IS xn a position to meet banking requirements of all
descriptions.

DUBLIN CITY BRANCHES:
Dame Street (Chief O'Connell Street.
Dublin Office). ^ ^.
Inchicore.
Baggot Street.
CrumUn. Pembroke.
Donnybrook. Pliibsborough.
Drumcondra. Rathfamham.
Grafton Street. Rathgar.
Consult the Manager of Your Nearest
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Head Office — SOUTH MALL, CORK.
 802
171

Me
Qjpinninq W^neel
50 UPPER GEORGES STREET,
DUN LAOGHAIRE,
CO. DUBLIN.

3ff- ijcu u3-anl ine ideal
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CRAFTSMEN

784
172

'An Irish Hotel in a Mediterranean Setting"

I ^

ROYAL MARINE
^Over 100 Bedrooms. ? Elevator to all floors.
* Suites with Private Sitting Rooms & Bathrooms.
? Excellent Cuisine and Wines.
* Beautiful Private Pleasure Gardens.
* Overlooking Dublin Bay.
? Six miles from city centre.
•
ROYAL MARINE HOTEL
DUN LAOGHAIRE, CO. DUBLIN.

173

837

CROFTON
HOUSEHOTEL

J

OVERLOOKING DUBLIN BAY
COMFORT AND COURTESY

DUN LAOGHAIRE
Phone 849021

843

'-WAece besi lo slau in Sreland- ?

VISITORS TO
THE
SALTHILL HOTEL
MOMSTOWIV (DDK LAOGHAIRE)
CO. DERLI^

FOUl^D THE ANSWER
1 HE HOTEL is ideally situated from which
to tour the beauty spots of Co. Wicklow and
district. It overlooks Dun Laoghaire Harbour
and Dublin Bay.
Lift to all floors. Hot and Cold water in all
Bedrooms. Private Bathrooms and Telephones.
Fully Licensed. 15 minutes by car to Grafton
Street, Dublin's premier shopping centre.
A.A. and R.I.A.C. appointed. Garage Free.
Telephone ; Telegrams :
81921 (3 lines) "SALTOTEL" DUBLIN.
J. T. SHELBOURNE, Manager.

175

MAJESTIC

HOTEL

DUBLIN

Comfort Assured Id

2ally Situated

Fully Licensed Excellent Food

Itdeet Your Friends at . . .

"THE MAJESTIC
LOUNGE"
FITZWILLIAM STREET
PHONE:
(Corner of Baggot Street)
66421
840
HOTEL PELLETIER
21, 22 HARCOURT ST., DUBLIN.
FULLY LICENSED
Hot and Cold Water All Rooms
Electric Fires
Very Central Position. Garage.
Telephone — 515201.
Proprietors — Miss M. McCarthy, Mrs. P. O'Connor.
^ 819
176
FORTY-FOUR
is the Name and also the
Address of
DUBLIN'S WELL-KNOWN HOTEL AND
RESTAURANT . . . where all the best people
dine and wine. When in Dublin make it YOUR
rendezvous.

44 HARCOURT STREET,
DUBLIN
Phone — 524581.

882

THE

CUMBERLAND

HOTEL

A long established Hotel, recently completely
modernised. At the main point of arrival and
departure for Great Britain.
Fully Licensed. H. and C. in Bedrooms.
Proprietress : M. MOLONEY.
Telephone : 62166/614781.
Westland Row - - DUBLIN
S35
'77

{/Sroek JLLawn i^uesl dveuse
Proprietors : Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Keogh.
>Dun griffan (KeaU, Jtowin,
&e. Q)uUin.

Beautifully situated in own grounds on Hill
of Howth. Overlooking sea. Sheltered
Croquet Lawn. 100 yards from Dun Griffan
tram-stop. Quiet. Comfortable. Varied
menus. H. and C. all Bedrooms and E.L.
Bedside Lamps. Interior Spring Mattresses.
Registered with Bord Failte Eireann.

Telephone No. 322083.

893

ARDEEN HOTEL

DUN LAOGHAIRE

CO. DUBLIN

On Sea Front Overlooking Dublin Bay
Hot and Cold Water in Bedrooms
Central Heating

Close to Pier, Rail, Bus, Swimming- and
Medicinal Baths

Fully Licensed

PHONE 8 116 4
VISITORS 8 2 3 6 2 1

Proprietors :
Mr.,-»nd Mrs. R. MULDOON.

¦178

838

'> ^*^t'

m^

.j.£

-

•-¦1

- "*"-!iP
: it^^iz \^
j^, - ^^^p
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