£dec E>63 733 yALe univeRSity LiBRARy che gARVAn collection of books on iReLAnd estABLisheo in 1971 By p RAncis p. gARVAn, yALe 1897 in honoR of his pARents pAtRICK gARVAn mARy carroLL gARVAn HENRY'S UPPER LOUGH ERNE. HENRY'S UPPER LOUGH ERNE IN 1739. EDITED, TKttttb IRotes anCt Bppen&fces, SIR CHARLES S. KING, Bart. DUBLIN : WILLIAM MoGEE, 18 NASSAU STREET. 1892. [AU 'lights reserved.] bv-G3 1 3 "3 PEEFACE This " Description of Lough Erne," as the manuscript is styled, is unfortunately imperfect, as the portion describing the Lower Lake is missing, and a fragment of the topography of the County Donegal, apparently by the same author, has been inserted in its place. The manuscript is now in the British Museum, cata logued "Add. MSS. 4,436," and is bound up with other " Papers Relating to the Royal Society," originally " E Bibliotheca Birchiana." Copied several years ago, it has since circulated among friends, and is now printed in the belief that it is of sufficient interest to appeal to a wider circle of readers. The author, the Reverend William Henry, a Fellow of the Royal Society, was successively Rector of Killesher and of Urney, and, in 1761, Dean of Killaloe ; he was M.A., 1748, B.D., and D.D., 1750, of Trinity College, Dublin, and died 13th February, 1768 ; his remains were interred at St. Ann's, Dublin, " 1768, February 14th. The Rev. Dr. Dean Henry, Chancel Vault" (St. Ann's Register). VI PREFACE. There being nothing interesting or archaic in the author's spelling and use of capital letters, these have not been retained. Some appendices, and notes, genealogical and illus trative, have been added; they make no pretensions to contain full pedigrees of the families noticed, most of which may be found recorded in- Sir Bernard Burke's " Peerage," &c, and " Landed Gentry," and some in Lord Belmore's ., 1738. 2 The patentee, in 1609, of Agheeteduffe, alias Ballyhaise, 1,500 acres arable, in Barony of Loughtee, was John Taylor of Cambridge, gent., who m. Anne , and was succeeded by Brockhill Taylor, Esq., m.p. for Cavan Borough, 1634, till his death, 1636, who left two daughters, co-heiresses — Eliza, born 1625, and Mary, born 1632, one of whom m. New burgh, and brought Ballyhaise into that family. Thos. New burgh, of Ballyhaise, Esq., was, with his two eldest sons, attainted 1689; he had, by his first wife, Mary . I. Thomas, d. s. p. (will dated 1696). II. Col. Brockhill Newburgh, m.p., Cavan Co., 1715-1727, m. Miss More of Salestown, Co. Kildare, and d. 1741, leaving issue four sons and two daughters — 1. Thomas, of Ballyhaise, m., 1743, Charity Julia (d. 1745), daughter of Henry Blake of Lehinch, Co. Mayo, Esq., and d. 1776, oit. 83, leaving issue; 2. Brockhill; 3. Wm.; 4. Arthur, m. Florence Cole, granddaughter of Sir Michael Cole, Knt. ; 1. Maria, m. James Sanderson, Esq., of Clover Hill (p. 26); 2. Mary Anna. I. a daughter, m. Rev. Wm. Greene, of Dresternan (p. 14). Mr. Thos. Newburgh, senr., m., secondly, Letitia (vivens 1715, a relative of Dr. Edwd. Synge. Abp. of Tuam), and had by her a son Henry, vivens 1716. Ballyhaise passed by purchase, early in the present century, to the Humphrys family. " Ballyhaise House, the seat of Wm. Humphrys, Esq. , is a spacious mansion with an elevated front, curiously ornamented with arches." — Lewis's Topog. Diet. of Ireland, 1837. Wm. Humphrys, Esq., j.p., is the present proprietor. 4 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. terraces from the river, which are adorned with ponds, jets d'eau, fruit, and flowers. The house is about 140 feet in front— it is made to last for ever — the roofs and all the apartments being vaulted, and curiously finished with stucco work ; and yet scarce any house in Ireland has so brisk and lively an aspect — the just mixture of the brick and hewn stone, and the proportion of the parts adding life to one another ; the large court and offices also behind it are all vaulted. It is not easy to pass by this fine seat without delaying at it ; but to do justice to the house, its various apartments, gardens, vistas, avenues, circular walks, roads, and plantations rising to the tops of all the hills around, would require a description that would draw me too far from my present design. The river forming a lovely meander around these improvements, in a silent, deep channel, continues its course for four miles through a valley diversified with small rising hills, meadows, and woods, to Butlersbridge, a little village on the great road, three miles north from Cavan. Half a mile below that bridge, at the old church of Urney, it enters into an arm of Lough Oughter; just as it enters this lake it receives a small canal which flows from a chain of several beautiful lakes in the form of oblong basins that are continued up to Farnham,1 1 " One of the noblest ornaments of the county, for though the house does not possess much exterior magnificence, it is sur rounded by a demesne of nearly 3,000 acres, comprising the richest pastures and the greatest variety of scenery adorned with wood and water, and everywhere improved by art. Lough Oughter on one 3ide of it spreads out from under the woods of Killy, and encircles many beautiful islands crowned with the finest timber." — Lewis's Topog. Diet, of Ireland, 1837. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 5 the seat of John Maxwell,1 Esq. The round hills that swell over these basins are for the most part clothed with woods or large plantations, divided by spacious vistas into a variety of pleasant ridings. The course of this river, from its source to its enter ing Lough Oughter, is about twenty miles. Lough Gownah.2 The western head of Lough Erne is Lough Gownah. It lies southward from the village of Scrawby (or 'M.P. for Cavan Co., 1727 till 1756, when he was raised to the Irish Peerage as Baron Farnham ; and his second son (by his wife, Judith, daughter and heir of Jas. Barry, of Newtown Barry, Co. Wexford, Esq.), Barry Maxwell, was elected in his place ; the latter succeeded to the Barony on the death of his brother, Robert, and was, like him, advanced to the higher dignities of Viscount, and Earl, of Farnham ; he m. , first, 1757, Margaret (d. 1766), second daughter and co-heiress of Robert King, of Drewstown, Co. Meath, Esq., and had issue — 1. John James, second Earl, born 1760, d. s. p. 1823 (when the Barony reverted to the issue of the Hon. and Rt. Rev. Henry Maxwell, d.b., Bishop of Meath, third son of the first Baron); 1. Lady Anne, m. 1787, Col. Richard Fox, of Fox Hall, Co. Longford (d. 1833), and d. 1801, leaving issue. 2. Lady Judith, d. imm., 1818. Earl Barry, m., secondly, 1771, Grace, daughter of Arthur Burdett, Esq., of Ballymaney, and d. 1800, leaving by her two daughters — Lady Grace, m. Sir Ralph St. George Gore, Bart., and Lady Elizabeth, d. unm., 1782. Henry, seventh Baron Farnham, who, with his wife, perished in the fearful accident on the North- Western Railway, near Abergele, 20 August, 1868, compiled and published his Royal Descents, from Henry III., Edward I., dc, and from Robert Bruce, 1850; his brother, Lieut.-Col. Hon. James Pierce Max well, m.p. for his Co., 1843-65, the present, and 9th, Baron Farnham, has also succeeded to the Nova Scotia Baronetcy of Calderwood, Co. Lanark, created 1627, on the death of his kinsman, the tenth Baronet. 8 " Gawney " in MS., i.e., " the Lake of the Calf." It is about 214 feet above the level of the sea, and nearly thirteen miles south-west of Cavan. ' ' The meaning of the name is explained by a legend which describes the origin of 6 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Scrabby), and washes the south-west part of the Co. of Cavan, and part of the Co. of Longford; it stretches between them for about three miles in length, and one in breadth. Though the country around is not im proved, the lake is naturally very beautiful, having several pleasant islands, a gravelly shore, the land rising easily around, and the skirts in several places shaded with woods. On the north shore of this lake stands Cloon — a small hunting lodge belonging to Arthur Cecil Hamilton, Esq., in a little peninsula almost in the form of a star, having several woody points shooting out into the lake. It is not safe to be particular in the several agreeable pros pects which this well-chosen lodge affords, lest a just description should carry too much the air of a romance. From the eastern end of the lake, at the village and old castle of Scrawby (or Scrabby), flows a small river which runs on the south-east side of Bruce Hill, through a coarse country for eight miles, to the back of Lismore Castle — an handsome, new-built seat of Thomas Nes- bitt,1 Esq. — pleasantly situated and adorned with ex tensive plantations. Half a mile lower at the bridge of Ballyhillan it enters Lough Erne. There is a well in the townland of Rathbrackan, one mile from Granard, in the Co. Longford. In this well once lived a magical calf, which was kept enclosed in it by means of a door, which all persons using the well were strictly enjoined to close after them ; but one day a woman going to draw water forgot to shut the door, and the wonderful calf jumped out, the water following him, expanding its course as it went, so that neither calf nor water stopped their race till both leaped into the sea at Ballyshannon I " — Ballyshannon, by Hugh Allingham, 1879, p. 10. 1 M.P. for Cavan borough, 1715, till his decease, circa 1750. He acquired his Cavan estate by his marriage, 1713, with Jane, daughter and heir of Arnold Cosby, Esq., of Lismore Castle UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Lough Oughter. Lough Oughter1 signifies " The Upper Lake," and is so called to distinguish it from the other part of Lough Erne, which spreads below Belturbet ; it consists of a great number of branches, or rather a collection of lakes, which divide the country that lies between Cavan, Kilmore, Killeshandra, and Belturbet. The intersper- sion of this lake — the rich verdure of the soil — and the many little hills rising in the forms of hogs' backs, many of them skirted with wood — render this by far the best and most beautiful part of the county of Cavan. At the distance of a small mile from the upper end of this Lough, on the very ridge of one of these small hills, stands exalted the episcopal seat of Kilmore.2 Though it be a single seat, without any town or village adjoining, it makes a specious appearance. The house (Capt. of a troop of Iniskilling horse, 1689), and had issue, with three daughters (of whom Jane, m. Thos. Burrowes, Esq., of Stradone House, Co. Cavan, and had issue ; and Elinor, m. Rev. Wetenhall Sneyd, of Cavan, and she d. 1754), six sons, of whom Cosby Nesbitt, born 1718, succeeded both to the family estates and to the representation of the borough ; he m. Anne, daughter of John Enery, Esq., of Bawnboy, and left issue. His descendant, the late Alex. Nesbitt, of Lismore, and of Oldlands, Co. Sussex, u.i., d. 1886, leaving a widow, Cecilia, daughter of Capt. Frederick Marks, b.ij. The immediate ancestor of the family, Alexander Nesbitt, of the House of Dirleton, Haddingtonshire (derived from Nisbet, or Nesbitt, of that ilk), settled in the Co. Donegal, and m. Alice, daughter of Alex. Conyngham, of Mt. Charles in that Co., Dean of Raphoe (d. 1660), ancestor of the Marquises Conyngham. 1 " Owter " in MS., " 160 feet above sea level." — Ballyshannon, p. 10. 3 " The Episcopal Palace, an elegant mansion in the Grecian style, has been recently rebuilt on a more eligible site near the former structure, which is about to be taken down." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. 8 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. is long, lofty, and capacious, about an hundred feet in length, and forty in width ; it has two fronts : the entrance is by the east side. The front is a large square court, the south side of which is formed by the church, the west by the house, the north by a wall'd enclosure, through which passes the avenue planted on each side ; from the east side, which seems open, there is a descent by several steps into a spacious gravelled terrace covered with spreading fig-trees, pears of the choicest kind, and stone fruit, the other side adorned with pyramids of box, yew, and holly : from this terrace descend steeply the gardens replenished with various kinds of trees, roots, and pulse ; they are divided into several quarters, and the whole enclosed by an high stone wall. Below the gardens lay, as an eye-sore, an irregular bog full of pits. The late Bishop, Dr. Goodwin,1 began in this a canal to answer the hall-door ; the present Bishop* has levelled the whole bog, and, by grass seed, reformed it into a beautiful meadow — for verdure and agreeableness not inferior to a parterre; the canal is completed, being about 500 yards in length, and in the middle is widened into a basin 100 yards over ; from the canal a plantation of trees is carried on as an avenue to the tops of the little hills beyond it, by which improvements that which was naturally a nuisance is reformed so as to become the principal beauty and ornament of this front. The western front opens into a gravelled terrace of about an "Timothy Godwin, d.d., a native of Norwich, Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh, in 1714 ; translated to Cashel, 1727 ; died, 1729. 2 Josiah Hort, a native of Gloucestershire, Bishop of Ferns, &c, in 1722; translated to Kilmore, &c, 1727 ; and to Tuam, 1742 ; died, 1752 ; ancestor of the Baronets of Castle Strange, Middlesex. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 9 hundred paces long. From the terrace descends, in an easy hanging level, a parterre agreeably diversified with verdant sod, gravel walks, small fruit trees, elms, and arcades of beech and hornbeam ; the sides are enclosed with high brick walls covered with choice fruit trees ; this parterre terminates in a deep ha-ha ; looking into the centre of the parterre is a large shell seat adorned with stucco. From the parterre is continued through a beautiful meadow a spacious avenue of a triple row of elms on each side, which, at the high road, terminates in another ha-ha with piers : this beautiful field is at some distance from the avenue on each side planted thick with young trees. The whole — the verdure of the meadow and parterre, the avenue, the walks, the terraces, the house which is stuccoed — have an effect equally grand and beautiful from the road. On the southern side of the parterre lies another garden planted with good fruit trees, and agreeably divided by tall hedges of hornbeam and holly ; in one of these enclosures is a physic garden ; the whole is enclosed with a high wall. Within this enclosure stands the largest and most perfect old Danish fortification in the kingdom ; it con sists of two high mounds, each having a large platform at the top ; they have in the middle a short passage to one another ; the whole is encompassed with a high dike and deep fosse, in which is a spring well ; this fortification is agreeably transformed into a pleasing retirement — the top of the dike being smoothed into a circular terrace, the fosse planted with limes, easy spiral ascents being made to the tops of the mounds, the plat form of one planted with firs, the other with elms, and having yews planted in the forms of easy chairs to read on. Between this garden and the south-west angle of 10 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. the house stands a venerable old grove of sycamores- planted an hundred years ago by Bishop Bedell — the largest of them stands in the middle of the terrace and, from thence, spreading its boughs into the churchyard, shades its planter's tomb ! The front of the house lay formerly naked and neglected ; but the present Bishop, observing it most capable of ornament, has caused by these several improvements its beauty to be displayed. The south end of the house looks into the churchyard, and from it the church goes off in right angles, being contiguous, and having a communication with the house. That door1 (way) of the church which looks into the churchyard has been a beautiful piece of ancient carving ; the stones are now so worn with time that many of the figures are defaced. The church has been much adorned by the present Bishop, who has sashed it, flagged it, pewed, and painted it. At the south angle of the churchyard, within a small wall'd enclosure, are de posited in a vault the remains of the good and great Bishop Bedell,2 over which is raised a tombstone with 1 This richly sculptured Norman doorway was taken, it is believed, from the Abbey of Trinity Island, in Lough Oughter. 2 A native of Black Notley, in Essex ; Fell. Emmanuel Coll. , Cambridge, 1593 ; b.b., 1599 ; Provost, Trin. Coll., Dub., 1627 ; Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh, 1629 ; resigned Ardagh, 1633. This zealous divine regarded himself as not merely the pastor of the British colonists in his diocese, but also of the sadly neglected native Irish. "How is it?" asked the eloquent Puritan, Dr. Owen, of the assembled Commonwealth Parlia ment, on the Day of Humiliation, 28 Feb., 1650 — "How is it that Jesus Christ is in Ireland only as a Lion staining all His garments with the blood of His enemies, and none to hold Him up as a Lamb, sprinkled with His own blood, to His friends ? Is it the sovereignty and interest of England that is alone to be there transacted ? For my part I see no further into the mystery of these things, but that I could heartily rejoice that, innocent blood being expiated, the Irish might enjoy Ireland UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 11 his arms, and this modest inscription, — "Gulielmi Bedell Quondam Episcopi Kilmorensis Depositum." ' The present Bishop is now repairing the injuries which this venerable tomb has suffered by time. The north avenue, which leads up from the road to the seat, is, by the present Bishop, carried on beyond the road along the ridge of a hill, to the farthest point, from which there is an extensive prospect variegated with no less than nine large pieces of water. Though this seat fails in that regularity which shines in modern pieces of architecture — which are begun and executed by one plan — by reason of its being begun by Bishop Whetnell,2 so long as the moon endureth, so that Jesus Christ might possess the Irish." Bedell laboured earnestly for the benefit of the natives by circulating the New Testament in the Irish language, and also holding church services in the same tongue. " The Irish did him unusual honours at his burial," Feb. 9, 1641-42, "for the chief of the rebels gathered their forces together, and, with them, accompanied his body from Mr. Shereden's house, to the church yard of Kilmore, in great solemnity, and discharged a volley of shot, and cryed out in Latin, Requiescat in pace ultimus Anglorum, for they had often said that as they esteemed him the best of the English Bishops, so he should be the last that should be left among them; " one of their priests also exclaiming, Sit anima mea cum Bedello. — Life of Wm. Bedell, Bishop of Kilmore, by Dr. Gilbert Burnet, 1685. 1 In Mant's Hist. Ch. of Ireland, i. 569, appears an engraving of this tombstone, from a sketch made in 1820. An esquire's helmet surmounts the shield with the family arms, and above it is a mitre ! 2 Edward Wetenhall, d.d., a native of Lichfield, of an ancient Staffordshire family ; Bishop of Cork, 1679 ; translated to Kilmore, 1699 ; died, 1713, and buried in Westminster Abbey. He was one of the four Bishops summoned to attend King James's Parliament, 1689. Dr. King, Archbishop of Dublin, in a letter to Dr. Charlett, Master of University College, Oxford, dated 17 June, 1721, complains "as to those clergymen who are sent us from England, I believe it will not be pleaded that 12 . UPPER LOUGH ERNE. on some ruins wherein Bishop Bedell lived, built up by Bishop Godwyn, and beautified by this present Bishop, yet, upon the whole, for convenience and agreeableness of situation, it scarce falls short of any episcopal seat in the kingdom. On the east side of another pleasant hill, half a mile northward from the Bishop's, stands the Deanery House, from which the hill descends in an easy hanging level ; it is behind well covered with large trees. A few paces above it is a strong fort, which, being on the top of the hill, commands a prospect of a great part of Lough Oughter. In the late wars the Deanery House stood in this fort, and was defended against King James's army, under Galmoy, by Dean Dixie's1 son and Lieut. Carleton, who, being obliged to abandon it, and flee to Lough Oughter, were taken ; they were dressed up in beggars' rags, and in this manner led, with their faces to the horses' tails, to Belturbet, where, after being exposed to the scoffs of the rabble, they were next day hanged on the sign-post by the general's door, and their heads cut off and given to the soldiers to kick about the streets as they are the brightest, generally speaking, though I confess to my observation they seem notably dexterous and industrious to make money for their wives and children. Thus the See of Derry was served by Dr. Hickman, my successor, who entirely rooted up and destroyed a large flourishing wood, which I, with care and cost, had planted whilst at Londonderry. Thus the See of Kilmore was served by Dr. Whitnall, who sold a wood belonging to his See, which, if standing now, would, as I am informed, sell for £20,000. But instances of such sort are too many to be mentioned." 1 Edward Dixie, m.a., Dean of Kilmore, 1664, attainted, 1-689, and died, circa 1691. His eldest son, Wolstan Dixie, Captain of a troop of Inniskilling horse, was the victim of Galmoy's treachery on this occasion, and his Lieutenant was Edward Carleton, who shared his fate, March, 1688-9. For the account of Lord Galmoy's breach of faith, see Archbishop King's State of the Protestants of Ireland, 1692, p. 177. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 13 footballs ; but the Inniskilleners, within a few days after, took a just and bloody revenge of these murderers, In one of the most southerly bays of Lough Oughter, within a mile of Kilmore, stands Trinity Island,1 so called from the ruins of an old church on the southern shore which is dedicated to the Trinity : it is a rich soil, and mostly covered with wood, which, as the ground of the island rises, appears to advantage. This island formerly belonged to the See of Kilmore, as appears by an inquest held in the reign of King James I., specifying all the lands and advowsons of that diocese. The record of this inquest is preserved in the Rolls Office ; it has been since dipt off from the See. About a league northwards from Trinity Island stands the strong old castle, Cloghoughter2 —so called from a rock in this lake on which it is built. It stands about a quarter of a mile from the shore, and, as there is no ground now left but the site, the waves on all sides wash its walls. Within these dismal walls, and in a more 1 In 1634 " Luke Dillon, Esq., of Trinity Island," was m.p. for Cavan Co. 2 " Clogh Owter " in MS. Anciently the stronghold of the O'Reillys. " The only place," writes Dr. Burnet, "of strength in the whole county. It was a little tower in the midst of a lake (Killekeen), about a musquet shot from any shoar The castle had been in the hands of one Mr. Cullum, who, as he had the keeping of the Fort trusted to him, so he had a good allowance for a magazine to be laid up in it for the defence of the country ; but he had not a pound of powder, nor one fixt musquet in it, and he fell under the just punishment of the neglect of his trust, for he was taken the first day of the rebellion (Oct. 23, 1641), and was made a prisoner here." Sir Hugh Cullum, or Culme (originally of Derbyshire), of Cloughoughter, Co. Cavan, Knight, m.p. for Cavan borough in 1613, m. , daughter of Emerson, of Derbyshire, and d. 1630, leaving issue four sons and three daughters — 1. Arthur ; 2. Hugh ; 3. Philip ; 4. Amadous ; 1. Jane, m. Henry James, Dean of Kilmore ; 2. Elizabeth, m. George Bradshaw, Gentle- 14 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. than ordinary severe winter, was the truly apostolical Bishop Bedell detained prisoner by the popish rebels, from the 18th of December, in 1641, till the 7th of January (following). By the hard usage in this cold place, but much more oppressed with grief for the dreadful havoc daily made of his flock by the murdering popish wolves, his strength was so impaired that he died on the 7th of February at Drumcorr, a little farm house on this lake, belonging to one of his clergy, the Rev. Dennis Sheridan.1 This was a " meer Irishman," whom the good Bishop, in his zeal to promote the con version of the native Irish, had promoted to the parish of Killasher2 — at the present the benefice of the author. He adhered firmly to his patron and benefactor in his per- man, of Bradshaw, Derbyshire ; 3. Anne, m. John Edgeworth, of Cranallagh, Co. Longford (Funeral Certificate in U. O.). In this castle Lord Montgomery was confined by the rebels, after the defeat by them of Monroe and the Scots' army, 15 June (1646?). Here died, by poison, as is supposed, 6 Nov. 1649, Owen O'Neil, a near relative of Sir Phelim O'Neil, and, like him, a leader of the Irish, but, unlike him, a brave and honourable soldier, who, from the time of his arrival with re inforcements from Spain, 1642, acted in accordance with the rules of civilized warfare, and disavowed the atrocities com mitted by other leaders. — Life and Times of John Leslie, D.D., Bishop of Clogher, &c, by Rev. R. J. Leslie. 1885. 'Dr. Burnet describes him as "an Irish minister, Denis O'Shereden," who " had forsaken their religion, and had married an English woman. " 2 In this parish is situated "Florence Court, the beautiful mansion of the Earl of Enniskillen, which stands in a large and finely planted demesne." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. The author's predecessor in this benefice, in 1719, was the Rev. William Greene, of Dresternan, Co. Fermanagh, who was attainted by King James's Parliament of 1689 ; Dr. Samuel Madden's MS. Hist, of Fermanagh, 1718-1719, gives particulars relating to him. He " purchased an estate in the said parish (Killesher) from Sir James Caldwell, and built a handsome house and chapel of ease as a burying-place for himself and UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 15 secutions, and ministered to him till his death. It must give pleasure to know the extraordinary reward which his pious gratitude and duty received from the Divine Providence. He lived Incumbent of this parish to a great yet vigorous old age, and saw two of his sons Generals in the Imperial Service ; a third, Secretary of State, and Commissioner of the Revenue; a fourth, Patrick1 Sheridan, Bishop of Cloyne ; and the youngest, William,8 Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh. family. His father (Marmaduke Greene, of Drumnisklin, in same County, who died 24 June, 1681), a gentleman of credit, married in ye worthy family of Creichton (Jane), who was sister to Coll. Abraham Creichton, of Crom, and mother to ye said Mr. William Greene, and to his brother, Capt. Abraham Greene (of Ballymacreese, Co. Limerick, m., 1694, Annabella, daughter of Capt. Arthur Blennerhassett, and d. s. p., 1724), who was a famous forward officer in ye late warrs. Mr. Wm. Greene's deceased wife was sister of Coll. Brock Newborough, of Co. Cavan (p. 3), and he has two sons and two daughters — 1. Mr. Henry Greene (of Dresternan and Ballymacreese, High Sheriff, Co. Fermanagh, 1721), m. (1714) daughter of Capt. Richard Poirets (and d. circa 1745, leaving issue) ; 2. Mr. Brockhill Greene," m. Sarah, daughter of Hugh Montgomery, Esq., of Derrygonnelly, Co. Fermanagh, and d. circa 1736, leaving issue. The two daughters of Rev. William Greene were — 1. Mary Greene (born 1685, died 8 Feb., 1762), m. Rev. James Cottingham, m.a.; and their eldest daughter, Elizabeth, m., 1731, Charles King, of Corrard, Fermanagh, Esq. ; 2. Jane Greene, m. Major Christopher Irvine, of Cooles, Fermanagh, ancestor of the present Col. John Gerard Irvine, of Killadeas, d.l., Fermanagh. "Mr. William Greene's grandfather was Mr. William Greene, who came (over) along with his relation, Sqre. Burley, and purchased a handsome estate in ye North, and married ye ancient family of Spenser, and of great relations. The coate of armes, three running stags in a gren field." 1 A native of Cavan ; Dean of Connor ; Bishop of Cloyne, 1679-1682. 2 A native of Cavan ; Dean of Down ; Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh, 1681 ; though attainted by the Jacobite Parliament, in 1689, he remained faithful to the fallen dynasty, and was deprived, as a non- juror, of his bishopric in 1691. Archbishop King describes him, in 1704, as "exceeding poor and crazy;" he died circa 1717. 16 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. River Croghan. Westward from Cloghoughter there shoots out a spacious arm of the lough ; into this runs a small river, which takes its rise out of a large and beautiful lake lying between Killeshandra and Carrigallen, on the borders of the counties of Cavan and Leitrim ; thence taking a circuit, it flows by the castle of Croghan into a spacious lake eight miles in a circuit, resembling a bason, and filling up the whole space between Croghan and Killeshandra ; hence it steals out into another lake of the like form and dimensions, and thence into Lough Oughter. Lough Oughter. In a large peninsula — formed by this chain of lakes to the north and west, and by the arms of Lough Oughter to the east and south — stands on an eminence, to which there is on every side an ascent, Castle Hamilton,1 the seat of Arthur Cecil Hamilton,2 Esq. The imagination '"Adjoining the town (Killeshandra) is Castle Hamilton, the seat of R. H. Southwell, Esq., a spacious mansion sur rounded by an extensive and highly embellished demesne." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. 2 Sir Francis Hamilton, Knt., created Baronet (1628), of Kealagh, undertaker for 3,000 acres in Barony of Tulleknock, Co. Cavan, took an active part against the rebels in 1641, and was m.p. for Cavan Co. in 1661, and was then "of Castle Hamilton." His wife, Dame Elizabeth Hamilton's (alias Wil loughby) will was proved 1664. His son, Sir Charles Hamilton, 2nd Baronet, m., 1673, Catherine, daughter of Sir Wm. St. Paul (alias Semple), of Letterkenny, Knt., and died in 1689, leaving issue one son and two daughters. — 1. Sir Francis, third Baronet, attainted, 1689 ; m.p. for his county, 1692, until his death. " The Hon"1*- Sir Francis Hammilton, Barronett, was interred at Killyshandra, in the County of Cavan, February the 9th, 1713" (Funeral certificate, U.O.) ; he had m., first, UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 17 cannot easily conceive the various agreeable prospects of wood, water, hills, lawns, and plantations which on every side encompass this seat. It has two fronts : the western, which is the principal front, is extended about 200 feet ; before it is a spacious palisado'd ring, from which an avenue, the whole breadth of the front, is carried on through pleasant meadows, having a beautiful lake on its south side, to the market-town of Kille shandra. The approach to this seat from the town is by another large, winding avenue, shaded with huge trees of an hundred years old, which is carried along the rising ridge of the hill which descends from the avenue, on the north side to the large bason before Catherine, daughter of Hugh Montgomery, 1st Earl of Mt. Alexander, by whom he had a daughter, who died young ; secondly, Anne, daughter and co-heiress to Claud Hamilton, Esq., but d. s- p., when his two sisters became his co-heirs, viz. — 1. Nichola Hamilton, m., first, Philip Cecil (d. 1684), of Drumurry, Co. Cavan, Esq. (descended, from Wm., Lord Burleigh, Queen Elizabeth's Prime Mmister, whose grandson, William, second Earl of Salisbury, was father of Charles, Viscount Cran- borne, who d. v. p., leaving James, who succeeded his grand father and the aforenamed Philip), and had by him Arthur Cecil Hamilton, heir to his maternal uncle Sir Francis Hamilton, m,, 1720, Anne, daughter and heiress to Thomas Connor, of Dublin, and had two daughters — 1. Margaret Cecil Hamilton, m., 1741, Sir Thomas George Southwell, Bart., first Viscount Southwell, and their second son, Robert Henry, Lieut. -Colonel, 8th Dragoons, purchased his maternal grandfather's estate of Killeshandra, or Castle Hamilton, and m., 1786, a daughter of Dr. Moore, of Dublin, and had issue Robert Henry Southwell, of Castle Hamilton, who d. s. p. ; 2. Nichola Cecil Hamilton, m., 1750, Richard Jackson, of Fork Hill, Co. Armagh, and d.s.p. Mrs. Cecil m., secondly, Arthur Culme, of Lisnamain, Co. Cavan, Esq. (attainted, 1689), and had issue by him Hugh Culme, d. unm. II. Dorothy Hamilton, the second sister and co-heiress to Sir Francis, m. Francis, son of Sir John Edgeworth, Knt., and had issue John, died unm., and Francelina. The Castle Hamilton estate was sold, in 1844, by Robert Henry Southwell, Esq., and its present proprietor is William Joseph Hamilton, Esq., J. p. 18 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. mentioned, and on the south to another beautiful lake, which stretches near a mile in length from the site of the town. The entrance into this front is by a spacious stucco'd hall, properly adorned with Cornish pilasters and niches; this is reputed the largest hall in the kingdom, being forty-four feet in length, and in breadth thirty-four ; the height is equal to the breadth ; from this hall several doors open into the apartments. These lie chiefly on the south front, from which the gardens descend into a succession of long and spacious terraces to a large lake, on a small island in which, near the lowest terrace, stands a banqueting-house ; these ter races are planted with choice wall fruit, and afford an extensive prospect of the town, country, and deerpark, which is beautified with several small pieces of wood and plantations ; there are in it, hanging over the lake, some large fir near an hundred years old. From the house, the peninsula is continued beyond the deerpark, eastward, for a mile and a-half ; in all this way are several spacious, open fields, descending to different arms of Lough Oughter, some on the north, others on the south side. On a verdant, rising hill at the eastern extremity of this peninsula is erected an octangular banqueting room, twenty-nine feet diameter, on each side a large window ; in a line with each window a vista is cut through the wood that surrounds the bottom of the hill, which carries the eye to so many different branches of the lough. One of these vistas takes in Cloghoughter Castle. From this place Lough Oughter is diversified into a great number of agreeable forms by a variety of islands, peninsulas, creeks, basons, and canals for five miles till it is again collected into a beautiful river a little above Belturbet. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 19 The Erne. This is a pleasant borough, charmingly situated on the south side of the river, from which it ascends to the top of the hill, in one straight and broad street ; from the height another, forming with this a right-angle, descends to the bridge ; at the angle formed by the two streets stands a pretty market-house, which commands a fine prospect of the whole town and river. A little more southerly stands a large church, which is generally crowded, all the inhabitants within the corporation being Protestants ; and opposite to this, on another hill over the east end of the town, stands a parsonage house. In the late wars Colonel Wolseley,1 while the Inniskil leners lay encamped here, fortified the churchyard and parsonage house by a strong dike and fosse, and the whole town by a line drawn between them. A little below the parsonage-house, by the water-side, stands a large barrack for two troops of dragoons. On the top of the hill opposite the market-house, stands the castle, the seat of Lord Viscount Lanes- 1 William Wolseley, Colonel of Horse, appointed in July, 1689, Commander-in-Chief of the Inniskilleners, rose to the rank of Brigadier, and became Master of Ordnance ; m.p. for Longford borough, 1692, till his death, circa 1699 ; a Privy Councillor and sometime a Lord Justice of Ireland. He was youngest son of Robert Wolseley, Esq., of the ancient family of Wolseley, of Wolseley, Co. Stafford, Clerk of the King's Letters Patent, created a Baronet in 1628, and his wife Mary, second daughter of Sir George Wroughton, Knt., of Wilcot, Wilts. From the Staffordshire Baronets descend the Baronets of Mt. Wolseley, Co. Carlow, from whom springs the distinguished General, Sir Garnet Wolseley, K.P., created, 1882, Baron, and, 1885, Viscount Wolseley. 20 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. borough.1 This is a lofty, square house, divided into several large rooms and apartments ; but its principal beauty and grandeur is from its bold and pleasant situation, and its hanging gardens, which descend in a variety of plats and terraces to the river, which, at the lowest terrace, is in the form of a broad and long canal, where generally some small pleasuring yachts and other boats ride at anchor. About twenty years ago this castle was struck in an extraordinary manner with lightning, the traces of which are preserved to this day, and seem to confirm that philosophical opinion, that, what the vulgar call the thunder-bolt, is only the focus of that stream of liquid fire which is then discharged. This thunder struck the top of the castle, close by the stack of chimnies, from which it shot down perpendi cular to the bottom. The hole it made in the garret ceiling, through which it darted, is scarce three inches diameter. This seems to be the very focus ; from thence 1 The Rt. Hon. Humphrey Butler, third Baron Newtown- Butler, second Viscount, and created, 1756, Earl of Lanes- borough, in the peerage of Ireland, Sheriff, Co. Cavan, 1727 Cap. Battle Axe Guards, Governor, Co. Cavan, 1756 ; m.p., Co! Cavan, 1703-1713, Belturbet, 1723, till he succeeded to his father's peerages in 1735. He m., 1726, Mary (d. 1761), daughter of Wm. Berry, Esq., of Wardenstown, Co. Westmeath', and d. 1768, leaving an only son, Brinsley, second Earl, born 1728, from whom descends John Vansittart Butler-Danvers sixth and present Earl of Lanesborough, Lieut., Co. Cavan. Sir Stephen Butler, Knt., of Belturbet, the immediate an cestor of this family, was an undertaker, temp. James I. in Fermanagh, fur 4,000 acres in half-barony of Coole, and 1,000 acres in half-barony of Knockninny (Geo. Alleyne's Muster RoU of the Co. Farmanagh, 1618), and in Co. Cavan for 2,000 acres, in Barony of Loughtee, m.p., Co. Cavan, 1634. He m. Mary, youngest daughter and co-heiress of Gervase Brinsley of Brinsley, Notts, (she re-married Edward Philpot, Esq.), and d. 1639, leaving issue three sons and four daughters, and was buried in the chancel of Belturbet Church. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 21 diffusing, it knocked to pieces the stone of the hearth, and cut to itself a circular passage about three feet- diameter ; descending to the next floor, and growing more diffused, it cut through the hearth and floor a passage of about eight feet diameter, from thence descending into the hall and spreading wide, it — by the violent concussion of the air — dashed down two stands of arms hung round the hall, and broke out of the door, tearing down one side of it ; two women were in the hall — the one who stood on the further side, near the arms, was struck down astonished, but not hurt ; the other, who was that instant shutting the door, was struck half-dead ; that side of her next the lightning was left all black, the other not in the least discoloured ; she, in a few days, recovered, and attended me at the time I observed this progress of the thunder. This town lies very conveniently to trade, having the advantage of the carriage through the whole length of Lough Erne ; it has considerable fairs for cattle, and is the principal mart for the linen manufacture of the counties Fermanagh and Cavan. Lough Erne. From this town downwards the lake goes by the name of Lough Erne. Having passed the town, it changes its course northwards, and forms from the east end of the town an exceeding beautiful canal of a mile in length. It observes the like form of a large canal, with here and there a little winding, for six miles to the castle of Crum. 22 upper lough erne. River op Aughalane, or Woodford River. About three miles below Belturbet, on the west side, it receives the River of Aughalane. This river rises in the southern part of the County of Leitrim, in the parish of Cloon. Thence it runs to Ballinamore, where it turns great iron works; a little further it passes through several large lakes, adorned with verdant hills and great woods. In a small peninsula that shoots out from the most beautiful of all these basins, stands on a little eminence the neat parish church of Drumreily. It lay in ruins for some ages, but is restored by the present Bishop of Kilmore. Hence, in a little more than a mile, the river flows in a semi-circular form about Woodford,1 the seat of William Gore, Esq.2 This fine seat stands pleasantly, on the south side of the river, 1 " Woodford House, which is half a mile north of Newtown- Gore, is built on the ruins of another of the O'Rorke's Castles. The estate was formerly well wooded, and remarkable for its oaks, and there are still two fine walled gardens of considerable extent. It was a place of great splendour, and belonged to the ancestors of W. Ormsby-Gore, Esq., of Porkington, Shrop shire." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. " M.P. for Co. Leitrim, 1729 (in place of his father), till 1760, again, 1769 ; m., 1733, Sarah, youngest sister of John Bligh, created Earl of Darnley, and had issue, William, who d. an in fant. He d. 1769, and was succeeded by his nephew, William Gore, in his estates and the representation of the county, an cestor of the Ormsby-Gores, of Porkington, Shropshire, now Barons Harlech. Sir Arthur Gore, first Bart, of Newtown-Gore, Co. Mayo (second son of Sir Paul Gore, first Bart, of Manor Gore), left issue, three sons, the second of whom, William Gore, of Wood ford, m.p. for Co. Leitrim, 1703, till his death, January, 1729, and Custos Rotulorum,, m. , 1696; Catherine (d. 1747), daughter of Sir Robert Newcomen, Bart. , and had issue, two sons ; 1 . Wm. , his successor abovenamed ; 2. Robert, m. Letitia, daughter of Henry Brooke, Esq., of Colebrooke, Fermanagh, m.p., and had issue, William, who succeeded his uncle as above. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 23 in a small lawn, encompassed with large woods, through which is cut a grand avenue leading to the house, and several other pleasing walks and vistas. The basins and large canals formed by the river, the woods and lawns interspersed, present the eye with an inchanting prospect ; to make it the more entertaining, the whole is a deer-park, and this curious gentleman has, at a great expense, made a large collection of the rarest foreign birds and beasts, both wild and tame. The river, a little below this seat, enters into the County of Cavan, and, in a course of six miles, reaches the small market-town of Ballyconnell, where is a redoubt. Here, on the south side of the river, defended by huge old trees, stands a beautiful new seat1 of the Rev. George Leslie, son to the Rev. Dr. Leslie,2 who was so 1 "Ballyconnell House, the residence of John Enery, Esq., is beautifully situated in a fine demesne, on the Woodford river, which winds through the extensive and well-wooded grounds in its course to Lake Annagh, and Lough Erne. The house was erected, in 1764, by the late George Montgomery, Esq. , on the site of the castle of Ballyconnell, which was entirely destroyed by an accidental fire. There is a chalybeate spring in the demesne." — Lewis's Topog. Diet, Ireland, 1837. 2 John Leslie n.n. (son of James Leslie, by Catherine, fourth daughter of Alex. Conyngham, of Mount Charles, Dean of Raphoe), Rector of Derryvollan, Co. Fermanagh, when attainted 1689, subsequently held the livings of Donaghmore and of Urney. He raised a company of foot, and a troop of dragoons ; at the head of the latter he performed important services. He possessed large estates, considerably augmented by grants of forfeitures, particularly, in 1700, of Tarbert, Co. Kerry. He d., of asthma, 1700, leaving issue, by Mariana, his wife, daughter of Rev. Humphrey Galbraith (by Isabel, fourth daughter of Sir Paul Gore, first Bart, of Magherebeg, or Manor Gore), with five daughters [of whom Letitia, or Lettice (Will proved, 1767), m. Walter Johnston, Esq., of Kilmore, Co. Fermanagh (d. ante 1729), and had issue — 1. Francis, of Kil more, d. s. p. 1740 ; 1. Mariana, m. John Sinclair, Esq. , of Holly Hill, Co. Tyrone ; 2. Jane ; 3. Mary], three sons — 1. John 24 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. greatly distinguished, by his valour and conduct, among the Inniskilleners. This seat is of hewn stone without, and elegantly finished with stucco work within. The front is diversified with dark and light-coloured stones, resembling a pavement : it looks to the west ; and the river answers to it as a canal; at its north end it breaks into a cascade, and, twisting round to the east side, it sports in a deep serpentine channel through several large plantations and woods, and mixes with some large lakes that lie behind them ; thence continu ing its serpentine course for six miles further, it enters Lough Erne. The whole course of this river is about twenty miles through a gravelly, dry country ; notwith standing which its channels are deep, and its streams slow and silent. A little pains would make it navigable through most of its course. Leslie, unmarried, killed at Aughrim, 12 July, 1691 ; 2. James Leslie inherited Tarbert, &c, Co. Kerry, d. circa 1724, leaving issue by Sarah, his wife — John, James, George, Sarah; 3. George Leslie, d.d., successively Rector of Clones and of Kil more, m. 1711, Margaret, daughter of Major John Montgomery (and sister of Col. Alex. Montgomery, Scots' Greys, of Convoy House, Co. Donegal, m.p., who d. s. p., and bequeathed to his sister, and her son George Leslie^ the Ballyconnell estate, which he had purchased, 1724, for £8,000, from the Executors of Humphrey Guyllym, son (?) of Major Meredith Guilliams, of Ballyconnell, in 1692), and d. 1754, leaving issue with two daughters (Margaret Leslie, d. wiim., and Catherine, m. Hamilton, and had issue — Sir John Charles Hamilton, Bart., m. , and had a son, John d. s. p., and a daughter, Margaret, m. 1762, John Enery, of whom hereafter), two sons — James Leslie, d.d., Prebendary of Durham ; and George Leslie, who assumed the name and arms of Montgomery, was m.p. for Strabane, 1764-1768 ; Cavan Co., 1769, till his death in 1787, m., 1752, Hannah (d. at Bath, Jan., 1786), second daughter of Right Hon. Nat. Clements, m.p. (p. 2), and had issue one son, George (a lunatic), d. s. p. 20 March, 1841, ce,t. 87, and four daughters (of whom — 3. Mary, and 4. Nathalina, d. unm., and) — I. Hannah, m. Rev. Joseph Story ; and, 2. Alicia, m., his first wife, 1791, her cousin, Nat. Sneyd, Esq., of Dublin, and Bally- UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 25 Lough Erne. The place where it (the river of Aughalane) enters Lough Erne is a wide, flat corkous1 meadow called " The Bloody Pass," from an engagement that happened there in summer, 1689, between a small party of Innis killeners and a detachment of King James's army, whom the former routed in attempting the pass, either killing or drowning most of them in the river. Comber Water. About a mile lower on the east side enters into Lough Erne the river of Castle Saunderson — called Comber Water — which is as large, or rather larger, than connell (son of Edward Sneyd, Esq., m.p., Carrick, 1777-1781, and his wife, Hannah Honora, only daughter of James King, Esq., of Gola Abbey, Co. Fermanagh), m.p., Carrick, 1795-1799 ; Co. Cavan, 1800-1826, and Custos Rohdorum, and she d, s. p. 1793. Mr. Sneyd m., secondly, 1806, Anne Burgh, sister of second Lord Downes, and d. s. p. 1833, having been shot in Westmoreland Street, Dublin, by Mr. John Mason, a lunatic. The above-named John Enery left issue, by Margaret Hamil ton, a, son, John Enery, Lieut. -Col., Kilkenny Militia, who claimed and succeeded to Ballyconnell, m. Sarah Ainsworth Blunt, of Kilkenny, and had issue — 1. George, d. unm. ; 2. Joseph, d. unm. ; 3. William Hamilton Enery (d. 1854), of Ballyconnell House, d.l., m. Alicia, daughter of Brooke Taylor Ottley, Esq., and left issue a daughter, Constance Isabella, m., 1864, Capt. Stuart Davis Cartwright, who assumed the name of Enery ; 4. John. (Partly from Hist, of Montgomery of Bally- leclc, dc, by Lieut.-Gen. George S. Montgomery, c.s.i.) Samuel Black Roe, Esq., o.b., Deputy-Surgeon-General in the army, of Ballyconnell, eldest son of late George Roe, m.d. (by Eliza, daughter of late Major Samuel Noble, h.e.i.o.s.), succeeded to Ballyconnell, on the death of his mother, in 1876. — Walford's County Families, 1889. 1 " Corcach, corcas, a marsh, low, swampy ground." — Joyce's Irish Names of Places, 1869. 26 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. the former (river of Aughalane). It rises in the southern part of the County Monaghan, and, by its various branches and large lakes, wherewith it mixes, it waters the greater part of that county. It passes through Clones,1 a market-town on the borders of Fermanagh and Monaghan, and thence, in a course of six miles, it bends broad and deep under Castle Saunderson.2 The situation of this seat is chosen with both spirit and taste ; it stands on the top of a' hill, which com mands all around, and rises high over the south side of '"Clownish" in MS. " Cluan Innis," Island of Retreat. (Lewis.) 2 It was burnt by King James's troops, under Galmoy, in 1689, and its then owner was attainted. He was Robert Saunderson [eldest son of Col. Robert Saunderson, who served with great distinction under Gustavus Adolphus, and settling at Castle Saunderson, died there in 1676, leaving issue — 1. Robert, second of Castle Saunderson ; 2. James, of Drumkeen, Co. Cavan, m. Anne Whyte, of Redhills, and had issue — Alexander, who succeeded his uncle Robert, and James, of Drumcassidy, or Cloverhill, collateral ancestor of the present Samuel Sanderson, Esq., d.Ii., of that seat (p. 3) ; 3. William, of Co. Westmeath], Colonel of a Regiment under King William III., m.p. for the Co., and d. s. p. 1723, leaving his estates to his nephew, Alex ander, who m. his cousin Mabella, daughter of William Saunder son, of Westmeath, aforenamed, and was ancestor of the present Lieut. -Col. Edward James Saunderson, of Castle Saunderson, d.l., Member of Parliament for North Armagh (for Co. Cavan, 1865-1874). The family claims the Viscounty of Castleton, in the Irish Peerage, conferred, 1592, on Sir Nicholas Saunderson, of Saxby, Co. Lincoln ; and a proffered Barony of Castleton was, it is said, refused by its representative at the time of the Union. — Burke's Landed Gentry. " Nearly adjoining the demesne of Farnham is Castle Saun derson, the seat of A. Saunderson, Esq., surrounded by a luxuriant demesne commanding the most beautiful views of Lough Erne. " Clover Hill, an excellent mansion, the seat of J. Sanderson, Esq., has also a very beautiful demesne richly adorned, and bordered by a spacious lake." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 27 the river ; at the bottom of the hill are some plantations ; and, from the castle to the skirts all around, the hill descends in a verdant, spacious lawn — here and there interspersed with single large forest trees. The bold ness of its aspect makes it naturally a stronghold, and gives it an uncommon air of grandeur ; it looks majes tically over the river to the north, and a great part of Lough Erne to the west. This river is navigable for large boats up to Clones. It and the former river of Aughalane are the southern bounds that separate Fermanagh from Cavan. A little below its opening into the Lough is a large island that Btretches a mile. In no part of Ireland, except on the plains of Augh- rim, was so great a slaughter made of the native Irish in the last wars as in this river and the country which lies between it and Newtownbutler — a village standing three miles northwards. As this extraordinary battle has been mentioned only in general by historians, I hope it will be no unacceptable digression to relate it more particularly, as I have it from the mouths of per sons of undoubted veracity, who were present at it, and are yet alive. In July, 1689, a numerous and well-appointed army was led down from Munster, under the conduct of the Lords Galmoy1 and Mountcashell. They encamped at 1 General Piers Butler, third Viscount Galmoy. The Rev. Dr. Hughes, in his Church of S. Werburgh, Dublin, 1889, prints a curious letter from Francis Marsh, d.d., Archbishop of Dublin, dated " S. Sepulchre's, Jan. 31, 1685-6," to his Chancellor, William King, subsequently Bishop of Derry and Archbishop of Dublin, relating to some offence committed by Lord Gal moy :— "My Ld. Gilmoy was w,h me, and earnestly desires, as I doe, that to-morrow being a church day, you would be pleased 28 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Belturbet, where, being joined by the northern Irish, under the command of Cohanaughmore-Macguire,1 they formed a regular army of 7,000 men. In order utterly to extirpate the Inniskilliners, a plan was laid for their being attacked at once by three armies from different quarters — by Sarsfield,2 with a Connaught army from the west ; by the Duke of Berwick,8 who covered the Siege of Derry, from the north ; and by this Munster army from the south ; so that this handful of men seemed, in the eyes of their enemies, to be encompassed in a net, out of which they could not escape. But, happy for them, they knew not their danger. The rout of the Connaught army by Colonel Lloyd4 at the head of 1,000 Inniskilleners has been already related. The to appoint a vestry in y° afternoon, when upon notice to me he will attend you, acknowledg his errour, and bestow his charity upon y° poore of ye parish, which I pray you to accept. This is only upon his own ace*. I desire you will signify to me the time. It is expedient to be done before my Ld. Lt. arrives. " I am S', " Most affectionately y* friend and serv'., " franc. Dublin." This act of church discipline is said to have been carried out. 1 Colonel of King James's 43rd Regiment, Sheriff of Fer managh, 1687, 1688, and sometime Governor of the same county. He fell at Aughrim, 23rd July, 1691. 2 Patrick Sarsfield, created by James II. , Earl of Lucan, and a Major-General. Killed at Battle of Landen, 1693 ; m. Lady Honora De Burgh, and had a son who d. s. p. in Flanders. 3 James FitzJames, a natural son of James II. (by Arabella Churchill, sister of the great Duke of Marlborough), a Marshal of France, one of the greatest generals of his time ; slain at Philipsburgh, 1734; m., 1695, Lady Honora Sarsfield, widow of the preceding, and left issue by her (who died 1698). 4 Thomas Lloyd (eldest son of Captain Owen Lloyd, of an ancient Welsh family, who acquired estates in the Co. Ros common) came to Enniskillen in January, 1689, and was chosen UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 29 attack of the Duke of Berwick shall be spoken of when I come to the spot where the action happened. My business now is to give some account of the Munster army. The very day that Colonel Lloyd returned from the slaughter of the Connaught army, an express arrived in Enniskillen, by water, from Colonel Creichton, to inform them that he and his two companies were closely be sieged in his Castle of Crum by the Munster army, and requiring their immediate assistance. Next morning, in order to reach this place betimes, which is sixteen miles from Enniskillen, the whole body of the Innis killeners, amounting to 1,500 men, set out before sun rise, leaving few, except the women, to guard the town. The main body marched by the great road through Maguire's-bridge ; but a small party, consisting of two troops of horse and two companies of foot, led on by the gallant Martin Armstrong,1 took a shorter road, near by the Inniskilleners to be their commander in the field. "Under whose conduct," writes MacCarmick in Farther Im partial Account cf tlie Actions of the Innishilling Men, ' ' we never failed accomplishing what we designed, but without him could not, or never did anything." He was a colonel in the army, and died s. p. 1 Captain Armstrong, of Longfield, Co. Leitrim, descended, like the Dunbars, Grahams, Johnstons, &c, in Fermanagh, from a warlike border clan, whence sprang Andrew Armstrong, who, in the seventeenth century, crossed over into Ulster, and, settling in Fermanagh, m., as his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Martin Johnston (vivens, 1642), and d. 1671, mt. 95, leaving a numerous posterity, now represented by the Baronets (created 1841) of GaUen, King's Co. ' ' About two and a-half miles to the south (of Newtown-Gore) are the ruins of the Castle of Longfield, which, from the gable that still remains, appears to have been of strong but rude masonry. It was taken possession of by Major Martin Arm strong after the battle of Cavan." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ire land, 1837. 80 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. the Lough side, by Lisnaskea. Here, in a close lane, they met, in full march, Lord Clare's1 regiment of dragoons, which were the flower of King James's army. These were commanded by Sir James Cotter,3 whom King James had, from a trooper in the Guards, raised to a lieutenant-colonel's commission, the honour of knighthood, and an estate in the County of Cork, for his assassinating Lord Lisle8 as he came out of a church in Switzerland. Armstrong quickly lined the hedges with the foot, and then, making a feint to attack with his troopers, retired as if in disorder, till he drew the enemy into ambush ; the foot at once making an unex pected fire, caused a great slaughter ; the horse at the same instant facing about, and falling on them with incredible fury, made such havoc that of this brave regi ment very few escaped. The terror and swiftness 1 Daniel O'Brien, third Viscount Clare, raised in the Co. Clare two regiments of infantry, and one of dragoons, dis tinguished in Irish tradition as " the dragoon bue," or yellow dragoons, for the service of James IL, which he commanded at the Boyne. He was outlawed 1691, and d. soon after. 2 In Notes and Queries, June 1, 1889, appears an interesting article questioning Sir James Cotter's participation in this crime. His son was executed, 1720, for his devotion to the House of Stuart, and his grandson was created a Baronet in 1763. 3 John Lisle, (jure uxm'is) of Moyles Court, Hants one of Bradshaw's two assistants at the trial of Charles I., and one of Cromwell's peers, escaped on the Restoration to Switzerland, and was assassinated either at Lausanne or Vevay, 1667, at the instigation, according to some, of Queen Henrietta Maria. His widow, the Lady Alicia, daughter and heir of Sir White Becensaw, Knt., of Moyles Court, was arbitrarily tried by the infamous Jeffreys, and beheaded at Winchester, 2nd Sep tember, 1685, art. 80. His posterity is extinct, and his eldest brother's line terminated in co-heiresses, one of whom is repre sented by the family of Phillipps, of Garendon Park and Grace Dieu Manor, Co. Leicester. — Burke's Landed Gentry. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 31 wherewith they fled gave rise to that irony among the Munster Irish, which remains to this day — " Coss ! coss ! a Dragoon buoy ! " that is, " Stop ! stop ! the yellow Dragoon ! " — the livery of Clare's regiment being scarlet, faced with yellow. While the fugitives, flying back to the main army, struck an universal panic through it. The Inniskilleners, animated with this success, and led on by those stout men, whose names ought ever to be remembered — Tiffin,1 Creichton, Lloyd, Carleton2 — quickened their march for four miles farther, to the village of Newtownbutler, that stands a mile south-east from Crum Castle. Being arrived there, they found the Irish army drawn up in order of battle on the south side of the town, upon a rising hill, sur rounded with a large, deep red bog, through which there was no pass to the hill but by a narrow causeway. This was defended by six field pieces, planted over it on the ascent of the hill. By this situation they seemed to be as secure as in a strong camp, and, so far from needing to fear an attack from an handful of men, that they might have sustained one from an army ten times as numerous as themselves. 1 " Tiphany " in MS. — Zechariah Tiffin was Major in Queen's Foot Regiment in 1687 ; Colonel, 26th June, 1689, Inniskilling Foot, till 1702 ; Brigadier-General, 1698 ; probably died before 1706, as there is a petition from Margaret Tiffin, widow, men tioned that year in Despatches from Lord Justices of Ireland, 1706-1712. Add. MSS., 9,717 b.m. 2 Captain Christopher Carleton, (jure uxoris) of Tullymargie Castle (of an ancient Cumberland family), m. Anne, daughter of George Hamilton, Esq., of Tullymargie Castle, Fermanagh (her will, made 29th April, 1722, was proved 9th October, 1729), and died, leaving issue (his will made 18th April, 1716, was proved 9th May, 1717) : 1. Alexander of Tullymargie ; 2. George ; 3. Lancelot ; 1. Anne, m. Robert Weir. 82 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Accordingly, Colonel Tiffin, who was an old, expe rienced officer, observing this strong situation of the enemy, thought the attacking them a rash attempt ; but since, after advancing so far, it was unavoidable, he was for going the surer way to work by leading on the Inniskilleners in regular columns ; but Lloyd, who had but a few days before observed the effect of their impe tuous courage — too great to be restrained within military rules — advised to let them proceed in their own way, whereupon they, scarce staying for their commanders, darted like lightning through all parts of the bog, attacked the enemy on the face of the hill, sword in hand, in a few minutes drove them from their field- pieces, which commanded the pass, and, by turning them on the enemy, at once made a slaughter among them, and left the pass of the causeway open for their own horse. Here, at the first onset, Captain Cooper took prisoner the General Justin Macarthy, Lord Vis count Mountcashell, while he was in vain endeavouring by his own example to animate his cowardly troops. He was esteemed by far the best and most worthy of King James's generals. The confusion, heightened by the turning of the great guns and the General's cap tivity, struck an universal panic, and the rout soon became general ; they fled through bogs and fastnesses, for three miles, to the river of Castle Saunderson, the Inniskilleners, and the two companies which had been besieged in Crum Castle, making all the way horrible slaughter. A party of horse, getting before the flying enemy, seized Watling Bridge, the only pass over the river. Being thus hemmed in, and not knowing whither to flee, they, in their fear — which always sug gests the worst counsels — drew up on a nook of the UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 33 river where it is very deep, just under Castle Saunder son. Here they stood to their arms, not having the wisdom to ask quarter, nor the courage to fight. In this fatal spot the whole brigade, consisting of near 4,000 men, were driven into the river and perished, not one man escaping ; so that, reckoning those who were lost here, in the chase, in the battle, and in the defeat of Clare's Regiment, it has been computed that of this army a full half perished that day ; the remaining, making up the river towards Clones, found a way to escape. The Inniskilleners, in this battle, carried their resent ment possibly beyond the just bounds, being greatly provoked to it, by the ignominious treatment and the inhuman murder of the Dean of Kilmore's son and Lieut. Carleton, who were dear to them, and whom Lord Galmoy had hanged at Belturbet a few days before. That perfidious lord was well-nigh giving Colonel Creichton the same fate : having drawn him to an interview on the public faith, he had him arrested because he would not deliver up his Castle of Crum, and would have put him to death had not Lord Mount cashell, enraged at such perfidious dealings, torn him out of his hands by force, and conducted him safe home to his castle. Nor did Lord Mountcashell lose his reward for this instance of justice and honour ; his life was spared in the hottest part of the battle ; he was conducted to Enniskillen, together with 400 prisoners more, many of whom were spared on his account. He was there allowed the liberty of the town on his parole. After some time, finding there was little prospect of his ransom, he caused artfully a rumour to be raised that he intended to escape, whereupon the Governour D 34 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. clapt a guard on him, by this act releasing him from his parole. The guard, observing the freedom which he before was indulged in, were remiss, and the Ser geant Atcheson, being bribed, carried him off at night by water, for which act he was shot the next day. Lord Mountcashell, escaping into France, was tried for the breach of his parole by a Court of Honour, and, making the circumstances of his escape appear, was acquitted.1 This victory2 contributed to the raising the siege of Derry with precipitation, the Irish army there dreading that the Inniskilleners might cut off their retreat. If this digression from the thread of these hints be too long, I hope it may be pardoned in a person who, being placed by Providence among this gallant people, was desirous to preserve these particulars, which — if left only to tradition — would probably, in another genera tion, be lost. Lough Erne. Two miles northward from the mouth of Castle Saunderson River, on the east side of the lake, stands Crum Castle,3 the seat of Abraham Creichton,4 Esq. 1 He had been created Viscount Mountcashell in 1689, In the battle of Newtownbutler his horse was shot under him, and he would have been slain "but for the goodness of his armour." One shot ' ' would certainly have killed him had it not been for his watch, which the bullet beat all to pieces " — (MacCarmick). After his escape to France, he commanded in Catalonia, and on the Rhine, where he was wounded. He died, s. p., 1694. 2 The Inniskilleners lost but two of their officers, Capt. Robert Corry, and Cornet William Bell, with not half a score private men, and very few wounded. 3 The ruins of this old castle, heavily clothed with ivy, present a beautifully picturesque appearance, and the famous yew tree still flourishes. " The only seat of importance (in the parish of UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 35 It is built on a flat piece of ground commanded by hills that are covered with thick woods, and stands so close on the shore that, in winter, the waves dash violently against it. Its walls are strong, but it has no outer wall, nor can it hold long out against a well-appointed force, by reason of the hills which mount so high above it, within musket shot, yet the courage of the owner and his tenants was such that they held out against a Galloon)— the residence of the Earl of Erne, about three miles from Newtown Butler — a handsome mansion recently erected — in which is still preserved the armour worn by McCarthy More at the battle of Kilgarret." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. * Sheriff of Fermanagh, 1673 ; m.p. for same Co., 1692, and for Enniskillen, 1695-99 (son of John Crichton, Esq.. by Mary Irvine, of the Castle Irvine family). He raised a regiment of foot, named after its Colonel, " Creighton's Foot " (v. Appendix IL), and commanded it at Aughrim. He was attainted in 1689. He m. Mary, daughter of James Spottiswoode, Bishop of Clogher, and d. 1705, having had issue — I. Captain James Crichton, who d. 1701, leaving, by Hester Willoughby, his wife, issue — -1. John, of Crum, who d. unm., 1715-16, bequeathing his estates to his uncle, Brigadier David Crichton, of Lifford, and his heirs male; 2. Mary; 3. Sidney, Mrs. Eccles — II. David Crichton, at the age of 18, the gallant defender of Crum, in 1689 ; Captain in his father's Regiment till 1698 ; Major in Lord of Ikerin's foot, 1703-4; and attained the rank of Major-General; m.p. for Augher, 1695-99, and for Lifford (the family borough until the Union), 1703, 1713, 1715, and 1727, till his death ; Governor of the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. He m., 1700, Catherine (d. 1759), daughter of Richard Southwell, and sister of first Baron Southwell, of Castle Matrix, and died 1728 (buried, 3 June, at St. Andrew's, Dublin), leaving, with daughters, a son, Abraham, born 1703, created, 1768, Baron Erne, of Crum Castle, in the peerage of Ireland, whose son, the second Baron, was advanced to the dignities of Viscount (1781), and Earl (1789). The third, and late, Earl, Sir John Crichton, k.p., Lieutenant, and Gustos Rotulorum, of the Co. , was created, 13 Jan. , 1876, Baron Fermanagh, of Lisnaskea, in the peerage of the United Kingdom, and his son, the present, and fourth, Earl, succeeded him in the Lieutenancy of the Co. The family claims descent from a branch of the ancient house of Frendraught, Aberdeenshire. 36 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. small siege till relieved. There are still to be seen the marks of several cannon-balls shot at it, which only struck off some splinters from the stones, but made no farther impression. The besieged found great advan tage from the long fowling-pieces, with double rests, used along this lake — with one of these they had nigh killed the Lord Galmoy ; he came to reconnoitre the castle from an hill near an English mile distant — where he thought himself secure, knowing that the besieged had no great guns. While he stood at this distance, with a glass in his hand to drink confusion to the rebels of Crum, as he termed them, an expert fowler, from the battlements of the castle, levelling one of these long guns at the crowd, broke the glass in his hand, and killed the man who stood next; this deterred the besiegers from making too near approaches. Frontward, from the castle towards the south, a pleasant garden stretches along the side of the lake. In the centre of this garden stands a curious yew tree, planted about seventy years ago ; its straight stem ascends about ten feet, thence, shooting out its branches horizontally, it forms a circular shade about seventy- five feet in circumference, which is supported by three circles of wooden pillars, from which, to the stem, there is continued a strong range of rafters that bear up its weighty branches from the circumference ; the vene rable head of the tree ascends regularly in a thickly woven, low cone, and forms a shade impenetrable by the heaviest rain. Lough Erne, which for the space of six miles from Belturbet to this place, observes the form of a large, silent, beautiful river, just at this castle opens into several wide, extended bays, some of which are two UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 37 miles in length. These are all encompassed with pleasant hills, or islands that rise gently in small hills from the water, all of them clothed with woods, some of which are large oak woods. The exquisite inter- spersion of water, hills, islands, woods, and lawns, form here a landscape which is more agreeable than the fancy can well conceive without seeing it.1 It is usual for gentlemen sailing by this place to dis charge some guns in compliment to the venerable castle. Some seconds after the noise of the shot has seemingly quite ceased, the echo begins, which is repeated in loud peals from the several bays succes sively, till at last the very echo of the echo dies away like the noise of thunder at a great distance.2 The lake continues to spread much in this form for the space of seven miles, from Crum to Knockninny. In all this space it is interspersed with a variety of pleasant islands, of an hilly form, covered with wood. 1 Sir John Davis was not slow in recognising the natural beauties and advantages of Fermanagh. When writing to Salisbury from Enniskillen, in the autumn of 1609, he says : — ' ' We have now finished our service in Fermanagh, which is so pleasant and fruitful a country that if I should make a full description thereof, it would rather be taken for a poetical fic tion than a true and serious narration. The fresh lake called Lough Erne — being more than forty miles in length, and abounding in fresh water fish of all kinds, and containing one hundred dispersed islands — divides that country into two parts. The land on either side of the lough, rising in little hills of eighty or a hundred acres apiece, is the fattest and richest soil in all Ulster." Besides the inhabited islands and those available for agricul tural and pastoral purposes, there are many smaller ones ; the total number has been computed at over three hundred. 8 Not far from Crum the lake winds round the island of Innisrath, the picturesque residence of the Hon. Mrs. H. Cavendish Butler (Lady Emerson Tennant), and passes Ross- ferry, that of Lieut. Gartside Tipping, b.n. 38 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. The islands are so agreeably scattered that they form a succession of large basins into which, when a boat is entered, it seems to be land-locked, so that, unless to those who are acquainted with the land-marks, it is not easy to find the outlet from one of these basins to the next, and the eye of the passenger is so entertained with nature in her beauty, that it forsakes the prospect with pain. From one of the most spacious of these basins opens to the passenger Manor Waterhouse, the seat of the Rev. Dr. Samuel Madden.1 It is agreeably situated on the eastern side of the Lough, at the distance of a 1 John Madden, of Enfield, Middlesex (grandson of John Madden, of Bloxham Beauchamp, Oxon., Esq.), m., 1635, Elizabeth (died 1671), eldest daughter, and, in her issue, heiress of Charles Waterhouse, Esq., of Castle, or Manor, Water- house, and d. 1661, at. 63. His son, John Madden, m.d., of Manor Waterhouse, born 1648, m., 1680, his first wife, Mary, daughter of Samuel Molyneux, Esq., of Castle Dillon, Co. Armagh, and d. 1703, leaving by her Samuel Madden, born 1686; d.d., t.c.d., 1723 ; Rector of Newtownbutler; one of the founders, in 1740, of the Royal Dublin Society, first named "The Society of Arts;" a great benefactor to his country. "His was a name Ireland ought to honour," said Dr. Samuel Johnson. He projected, 1731, a scheme for promoting learn ing in Trinity College, Dublin, by premiums to the best answerers at the quarterly examinations, and, by a codicil to his will, left large bequests to the same University. In 1740, he settled £100 per annum to be distributed as premiums by the Royal Dublin Society for useful inventions, sculpture, and painting, whence he is known in his family as " Premium Madden." He was sometime tutor to Frederick, Prince of Wales, and author of Memoirs of the Twentieth Century, being Original Letters of State under George the Sixth, received and, revealed in the year 1728- In six vols., 1733. One thousand copies of Vol. I. of this work were printed, but, in less than a fortnight, 900 copies were delivered up to the author, and, for political reasons, probably destroyed. His Reflections and Reso lutions Proper for the Gentlemen of Ireland, Sec., 1738, became so rare that it was re-printed at the expense of Mr. Thomas Pleasants, of Dublin, in 1816. He also compiled genealogical collections, and a History of the Co. Fermanagh, written in UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 39 short mile, yet, as the ground agreeably ascends the whole way, it appears just to hang over it. The house1 stands on the ridge of one of those hills that resemble a ship with the keel turned up. It is placed at the western end of the hill, as on the stern end of the keel, and the avenue from the front — which looks eastward — is carried along the keel towards the bows. The ap proach of the house is towards the eastern front, to which the entrance is through a large pleasure garden, that contains a variety of gravel walks, wall fruits, ever greens, and a curious collection of flowers and shrubs. From this there is an ascent, by several steps, into a 1718 and 1719 (Appendix III.), which MSS., at one time in the possession of the late Ulster, Sir William Betham, were, after his death, purchased, in 1860, by the late Sir Thomas Phillipps, Bart., for his great collection at Thirlestane House Library, Cheltenham. Dr. Madden m. Jane, daughter of Captain Hugh Magill, of Kirkstown, Co. Down (by Lucy, daughter and even tual heiress of Charles Balfour, Esq., of Castle Balfour (p. 41), and died 1765. He had issue two sons and five daughters ; 1. Samuel Molyneux Madden, Sheriff, Fermanagh, 1749, d, s.p. v. 1784 ; 2. John Madden, of Maddenton, now Hilton, Co. Mon aghan, and Manor Waterhouse, m., 1752, Anne, daughter of Robert Cope, Esq., of Loughall, m.p., and was ancestor of the present John Madden, Esq., d.i., of Hilton Park and Manor Waterhouse, and of John Madden, Esq., d.l., of Roslea Manor, Co. Fermanagh ; 1. Lucy, m. Alexander Sanderson, of Clover Hill (p. 26), and had issue ; 2. Elizabeth, m. , 1761, John Hawkshaw ; 3. Jane, d. unm. ; 4. Alice, d. unm. ; 5. Mary, d. unm. Sir Edward Waterhouse, of Castle Waterhouse, m.p, for Carrickfergus, 1585 ; Chancellor, Irish Exchequer, d. s. p. 1591. Charles Waterhouse, of the same seat, an undertaker of 1,000 acres in B. Clankelly, m. Ethelred (d. 1640), sister of Sir Stephen Butler, Knt. (p. 20), and, dying 1638, left issue, with Mrs. Madden, a son, Charles, m., 1634, Elizabeth Cope, and had four sons, who d. unm. , and a daughter, Anne, m. Patrick Harrison, and had issue a son, Charles. 1 The old castle had been burnt down by the Irish army before the Battle of Newtownbutler, 31st July, 1689, and was only partially restored. 40 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. hall twenty-four feet square, wainscotted and curiously carved ; in this a beautiful gallery for music. From the hall is continued a great parlour of the like dimen sions, which, through a long avenue, affords a prospect that terminates in a broad basin of Lough Erne. This room and the hall are almost covered with fine pieces of painting, several of which are originals, done by the names that have been most famous over Europe. On each hand of the hall, and from the parlour, go off large apartments. Over the doors which lead into the house are engraved sentences out of the classics, express ing the beauty and agreeableness of the country and fine situation, and, indeed, the whole seems to be finished with a classical taste and elegance. On the south side of the house are large gardens, with several walks and terraces that descend steeply to a deep, solemn glen, through which runs a large rivulet, which, in some places, murmurs gently,, in others roars, through the hollowest part of the glen, by the several artificial cascades over which it pours. The north side of the hill, which descends from the house, is covered with a thick, young wood, which is cut out into an infinite number of shady walks, terraces, recesses, and labyrinths. At the bottom of this wilderness winds a rivulet as large as the former, in a great number of meanders, sometimes gliding in a deep, clear channel, again breaking in cascades ; all along its bank is a small, serpentine gravel walk, which attends all its twistings through the wilderness which make up an English mile. Along this walk are, here and there, pleasant bowers interwoven of branches of trees and flowering shrubs, which hang over the brook ; the banks are diversified with a variety of flowers, succeed- UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 41 ing one another through the seasons ; in several places there opens into this walk little winding alleys, which lead into the darkest parts of the wilderness, and gene rally terminate in something agreeable ; one of these winds into a circle, in the centre of which is piled up a pyramid of bones, and round the circumference are erected tombstones with curious inscriptions. Through out all the wilderness nature appears in her native beauty and charming wildness ; the strokes of art are scattered with so loose and easy an hand as serve only to display nature the more, while they are scarce per ceived themselves. The whole seat seems a fit retreat for the Muses, and it is but a just compliment to the numerous, agreeable family that inhabit it, to say it is not without the Graces ! Two small miles northward stands, near the lough, the market town of Lisnaskea,1 and at the south of the town Castle Balfour, the seat of Harry Balfour,2 Esq. 1 " A tolerably strong castle belonging to Charles Belfore, Esq Ere Galmoy came (in March, 1689) the length of Lisnaskey, a cursed fellow, one Kemp, with some of the rabble of the country his consorts, burnt that pretty village, to the great loss of the inhabitants and the worthy gentleman that owned it, as also a prejudice to IniskilKng, it being capable of quartering above a regiment of men But ere the town was burnt, we had brought from thence a many tuns of iron belonging to Mr. Belfore, and most of the lead of his house, which proved very serviceable to us, both to horse and foot." — (MacCarmick.) The Castle Balfour estate passed by purchase to the Earls of Erne. 2 Eldest son of Blayney Townley, Esq., of Co. Louth, by Lucy (widow successively of Hugh Magill, of Kirkstown, Co. Down, p. 39, and of Col. Robert Johnston), daughter and eventual heiress of Charles Balfour, Esq., of Castle Balfour (attainted, 1689), son of Sir Wm. Balfour, who acquired the Fermanagh estates of his kinsman, Sir James Balfour, Lord Clanawley. Mr. Harry Townley succeeded to Castle Balfour on the death, 42 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. It is a large old castle, encompassed with groves and plantations. By the several improvements and orna ments added to it by the present owner, it makes a shining figure from the lake all along the country lying on the opposite western side of the lake. Opposite to this place Lough Erne spreads wide, near four miles in breadth, having, to the south side, hang ing over it the pleasant hill of Knockninny,1 and on the west the low ground and bogs of Glenawly, from which the country ascends coarse till it rises to the high mountains over which stands exalted Cuilcagh.2 1739, s. p., of his maternal uncle, Wm. Balfour, m.p., Augher B. (who had been attainted, 1689), and assumed the surname of Balfour. He m. Anne Percy (admin. 1741), and had issue (with a daughter, Emilia) a son, Wm. Charles, who d. s. p., and the estate reverted to his (Harry Balfour's) next brother, Blayney Townley, who also assumed the surname of Balfour, and was ancestor of the present Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour, Esq., d.l., of Townley Hall, Co. Louth. 1 On the north side of the lough, opposite Knockninny, and facing on the west the Cuilcagh, Bennaghlan and Florencecourt range of mountains, lies Corrard, the seat of Sir Charles Simeon King, Bart, (whose family is noticed under his property of Gola, also on the lake shore). It is surrounded on three sides by the lake. On the Down Survey map of the county, a.d. 1665, "Corrard," "Askall," and "Tomlohan" (subse quently Toneylaghan or Gubdarragh Point) appear as an island, and the headland "Inishbeg," i.e., "Little Island," is another island. One of its three promontories bears the name of Friars' Point, and part of it is Friars' Field, which circum stance seems to indicate that it may have been one of the monastic retreats which once abounded on the shores and islands of Lough Erne. The old house was pulled down, circa 1825, preparatory to building a new one, but little more was done than to erect new offices, which were subsequently altered, and constitute the present residence. 2"Colcough" in MS. "Though generally considered as belonging to Leitrim and Cavan, it has its lofty eastern ex tremity, 2,188 feet high, altogether in Fermanagh. On the summit is a fine spring of excellent water. On this mountain, which is intimately associated with much of the legendary history of the district, the Maguires anciently invested their UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 43 These awful mountains, whose heads are generally wrapt in clouds, change the scene from beautiful to grand, and therefore afford a welcome diversification of the prospect to a person who, having sailed so far down the Lough, has had his eyes almost glutted with the repetition of so many and so charming landscapes. This broad part of the Lough is interspersed with a multitude of islands, several of which are inhabited by husbandmen, others covered with cattle, most of them diversified with wood, ruins of old churches, houses, and the like. The pleasantest of these islands is Belle Isle,1 the chiefs with supreme command over the adjacent country of Fermanagh." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. Upon the breast of Bennaghlan, in a singular position, is a monument erected by Lord Evelyn Stewart, to the memory of Mr. Maxwell.— Wakeman's (W. F.) Lough Erne, 1870. "'A.D. 1498. MacManus of Seanadh, i.e., Cathal Oge, the son of Cathal, son of Gillapatrick, son of Mathew, &c. A man who had kept a house of general hospitality, a biatach, at Seanadh-mic-manus, a canon chorister in Armagh, and in the Bishopric of Clogher, Parson of Inis-Cavin (Innishkeen), Deacon of Lough Erne, and coadjutor of the Bishop of Clogher, for fifteen years before his death, the repertory of the wisdom and science of his own country, fruitful branch of the Canon, and a fountain of charity and mercy to the poor and the indigent of the Lord : he it was who had collected together many his torical books from which he had compiled the historical book, Annales Senatenses, or Annals of Ulster of Baile-mic-manm, for his own use, died of galar breac (smallpox), on the tenth of the calends of April, which fell on a Friday, and in the 60th year of his age." (The Fow Masters!) — Archdall's Monast. Hib., edited by Bishop Moran. " Insul. vocat. McManus Island," &c, in Com. Fermanagh — Paul Gore, tenant — Crown Rental, 1623. "Another (island) is Bally McManus, now called Bellisle, containing two large Tates, and much improved and Beautified at the Expenses of Sir Ralph Gore, Barrtt." — MS. Hist. Fer managh, 1718-1719. " Bellisle has long been celebrated for its natural beauties, which were much heightened by the judicious improvements 44 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. seat of the late Sir Ralph Gore1 — one of the Lords Justices of Ireland. It contains 200 plantation acres of very good land, rising on every side from the water in a gentle ascent. On the north side it is united to the mainland by a large terrace, that was finished with great labour — the Lough being, on each side of it, very deep — there were planted along the sides of the terrace rows of trees ; and a pallisade was carried along to pre vent passengers from falling into the water. On the they received when it was the residence of the Earl of Ross : it is connected with the main land by an elegant bridge. Near it is Lady Ross's Island, so called from the improvements be stowed on it by that lady. Knockninny was used as a deer- park by the nobleman just named." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. 1 " My horses foundered on Fermanagh ways ; Ways of well-polished and well-pointed stone, Where every step endangers every bone ; But that the world would think I play'd the fool, I'd change with Charley Grattan for his school. What fine cascades, what vistoes might I make, Fix'd in the centre of the Iernian lake ! There might I sail delighted, smooth, and safe, Beneath the conduct of my good Sw Ralph, There's not a better steerer in the realm, I hope, my lord, you'll call him to the helm." Dean Swift's "Epistle to H. E. Lord Carteret, 1729, by Rev. Pat. Delany," ex-Fellow, t.o.d., and Rector of Derryvollan. The Rt. Hon. Sir Ralph Gore, fourth Bart., of Manor Gore (great-grandson of Sir Paul Gore, the first settler in Ireland, created a Baronet of Ireland, in 1621), succeeded to his father's Manor of Carrick, which includes Belleisle, on the death of his mother, to whom it had been left for her life ; he mentions in his will his farm at Knockninny, held by lease from Mr. Balfour ; m.p. for Donegal Borough, 1703, 1709, and for Donegal Co., 1713, 1715, and for Clogher, 1727 ; PC. ; Chancellor of the Ex chequer ; elected Speaker, H. of Commons, 1729. He m., 1705, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Richard Colvill, and by her UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 45 south side of the isle stands the house, which is but a small lodge, chiefly agreeable for its situation ; from the house descends, in an hanging level to the Lough, a parterre, enclosed on the east and west sides with high walls covered with fruit trees, and having on the ex tremities on each side square turrets, which hang over the Lough j at the foot of the parterre is a quay, where used to ride all kinds of pleasant boats. Exactly front ward from the house, the islands — which are all wooded (who died 1710) he had two daughters ; he m., secondly, Elizabeth (d. 1743), only daughter of St. George Ashe, d.d., Bishop, successively, of Clogher and Derry, and died 1733, leaving issue. His second son (who succeeded his eldest brother, Sir St. George Gore St. George, fifth Bart., who d. s.p. 1746), Sir Ralph Gore, sixth Bart., a gallant soldier, who rose to the rank of Lieut.-General, and Commander-in-chief in Ireland, created, for his eminent services, Baron Gore, in 1746 ; Viscount Belleisle, 1768 ; and Earl of Ross, 1771. He had his right arm shattered at Fontenoy, in 1745 ; he raised the 92nd Regiment of foot at his own expense ; m. , first, 1754, Catherine, eldest sister of Right Hon. Thomas Conolly, she d. s, p. v. 1771 ; he m., secondly, his cousin Alice, daughter of Right Hon. Nat. Clements (p. 2), and had by her a son, Ralph, Viscount Belleisle, b. 1774 ; d. 1789. Lord Ross, d. circa 1802 (for further particulars relating to him and his family, v. Lord Belmore's Parliamentary Memoirs of Tyrone, 1887), and bequeathed his Manor of Carrick to his natural daughter, Mary, who m., 1798, Richard Hardinge, Esq., then Steward of the Household to the Lord Lieutenant, and m.p. for Middleton, created a Baronet, 1801. Lady Hardinge d. s. p. in 1824. The Manor of Carrick was purchased by the late Rev. John Grey Porter, Rector of Kilskeery, Co. Tyrone, eldest son of John Porter, D.D., Bishop of Clogher (of an old Cumberland family) ; and his son, the present proprietor, John Grey Vesey Porter, Esq., of Belleisle, has much improved and beautified his seat, and numerous islands, by judicious plantations. To Mr. Porter's enterprise the public are indebted for the well-appointed steamers plying on the lake : and to his long-continued exertions as sole promoter of a scheme for keeping the lake at a uniform level, summer and winter, and so preventing disastrous floods, it is due that this much-needed work has been so far carried out. 46 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. and gently rising — are ranged so regularly on each hand, that they, with the Lake between them, form the appearance of a grand avenue planted in clumps. This avenue, on the water, is continued for three miles, widening regularly as it removes from the house, and terminates no less agreeably in the beautiful hill of Knockninny.1 This hill alone is two miles in circumference ; it rises in an oval form to the height of a mountain, and is somewhat abrupt on the west side. The soil of it is reckoned not inferior to any of the county, being to the very top clover ; it affords an extended prospect of all the upper part of Lough Erne, from Belturbet to Ennis killen. On the north side it is washed by the Lough ; this side is enclosed in a deer-park, and has on the shore stables and coach-houses, and a quay for boats ; but its chief curiosity is a plentiful fountain of pure water, which, being distilled through this large mountain of gravel, has a clearness and coolness scarce to be met with. It is usual for company who have been pleasuring on the Lough to retire to this fountain for their enter tainments, for which end around it are ranged benches of sod,2 and over it a shade of aquatic trees. About ten years ago, in digging on this hill, were found above a score of brazen axes in a heap : they had on one end a broad edge like the common hatchet, from which they grew narrower, and tapered to a point : at the other end there was no hole for the helve : the wood, instead of embracing the axe, as is usual, was in these em braced by the axe ; they seem to be a kind of battle- 1 See Appendix IV. 2 " Sood " in MS. A tourists' hotel now stands on the lake shore by the quay. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 47 axes, and were possibly made use of in war by persons who were not acquainted with the greater convenience of iron. Maguire's River. Two miles north-west from Lisnaskea Maguire's River enters Lough Erne. It rises in the County of Tyrone, not far from Clogher, thence running near Colebrooke, the seat of Henry Brooke, Esq.1 It waters with its several branches that large vale of good soil that lies between the mountains Slieve Bagh2 and the 1 Governor of Fermanagh ; Sheriff, 1709 ; m.p. for same county, 1727, till his death, 1761 [son of Major Thomas Brooke of Donegal (by Catherine, daughter of Sir John Cole, Bart. , of Newlands, Co. Dublin, sister and co-heiress of Baron Ranelagh), who was son (by his second marriage, 1652, with Anne, daughter of Sir George St. George, Bart.) of Sir Henry Brooke, Knt., of Brookeborough ; Captain of foot; m.p. for Donegal B. , 1661 ; Sheriff, Fermanagh, 1669 ; who, for his services in 1641, was rewarded with a grant of land in Fer managh ; son of Sir Basil Brooke, Knt., of Borigall, the first settler in Ireland, one of the undertakers in the County Donegal, who d. 1633]. He m., 1711, Lettice (d. 1763), daughter of Alderman Benjamin Burton, of Dublin, and had issue — 1. Sir Arthur, Sheriff for Fermanagh, 1752 ; m.p. for same county, 1761-1768, and 1776-1783 ; p.c, created, 1764, a Baronet of Ireland, but dying, 1785, s. p. m., the dignity became extinct. 2. Francis, Major, Light Dragoons, m., 1765, Hannah (d. 1819), daughter of Henry Prittie, Esq., of Kilboy, Co. Tipperary, and d. 1800, leaving six sons, of whom the eldest, Henry Brooke, of Colebrooke, Esq., created a Baronet in 1822, was father of Sir Arthur Brinsley Brooke, second Bart., and grandfather of the late Sir Victor Alexander Brooke, the third Bart., whose eldest son, Sir Arthur Douglas Brooke, is the present and fourth Bart. 2 "Sliavh Beatha, surnamed from Bith, who was one of the 3 men y' accompanied Cessarea together w'h 50 women to Ire land, 40 dayes before y" Deluge, and after they landed the women were divided in 3 squadrons betwixt these 3 men. Bith took his journey to y° north, and dyed on y" top of this moun- taine, and was buried on y° carne on ye height thereof." — MS. Hist, of Fermanagh, 1718, 1719. 48 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Topped1 Mountain, thence passing through Maguire's Bridge,2 it, a little lower, sinks into a deep, silent channel, and in this form twists and plays in an hun dred meadows, through vast extended flats, for above three miles, till it enters Lough Erne, opposite to the north-east point of Knockninny. These flats are firm soil, clothed with a rich verdure, and covered with an infinite number of cattle. It is not easy to express the joy which this beautiful scene raises in one who rides a pleasuring along the banks of this river in the summer season. In the winter the scene is entirely changed. Lough Erne spreads over all up to the town of Lisna- skea and near to Maguire's Bridge. These vast verdant flats become so many spacious bays, and the little hills that here and there are scattered through them are made islands. Almost opposite to the mouth of this river, about two miles northward from Knockninny, on the western side of the lake, is the mouth of the Duanim, or River of Stragownah. River Duanim, or Stragownah. It rises from a large lake near Bawnboy, the seat of John Enery, Esq.,3 in the north-west part of the County of Cavan ; issuing thence it is swelled with a great number of brooks tumbling down from the mountains of Cuilcagh on the west, and those of Slieve Russell on the south-east. In the course of five 1 Topped Mt., anciently Mullagh Knock — "the hill on the hill " — 909 feet above the level of the sea, with a cairn on the top of it. 2 Near this town is Drumgoon, the seat of Francis J. Graham, Esq., D.L. 3 See p. 25, note, for some account of this family. " Patrick Enery, of Swanlinbar," was living in 1690. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 49 miles it sweeps by the small market-town of Swanlinbar,1 where once was a great iron-work ; hence it flows in a course of three miles to the Bridge of Stragownah, which is a mile southward from Kinawly, and thence in two miles more it opens into Lough Erne. The whole course of this river is about ten miles, the last five through a deep morass. As it is supplied by mountain brooks, it swells in floods to a great height. It affords great plenty of large trouts. Some time ago there were forests of oak along the banks of this river ; but they have been so entirely extirpated in order to supply the iron-works at Swanlinbar, that there is scarce a stump left. In all the bogs and morasses round it are found great, huge trunks of oak. River Arnet. Two miles northward from the mouth of the Duanim flows into the lake the large and pleasant River Arney. It rises out of Lurganna Colley2 mountains, in the 1 " Swadlinbar " in MS. " There is likewise a famous town where the worst iron in the kingdom is made, and it is called Swandlingbai; the original of which name I shall explain, lest the antiquaries of future ages might be at a loss to derive it. It was a most witty conceit of four gentlemen who ruined them selves with this iron project : Sw stands for Swift, And for Sanders, Ling for Darling, and Bar for Barry. Methinks I see the four loggerheads sitting in consult,, like Smectymuuus, each gravely contributing a part of his own name to make up one for their place in the ironwork, and could wish they had been hanged as well as undone for their wit." — Dean Swift, On Bar- barous Denominations in Ireland, 1728. The ore came from the neighbouring mountain, Cuilcagh, and the works were continued till the supply of timber failed. The town possesses a mineral spring strongly impregnated with sulphur, &c. Its waters were in high esteem as a restorative from debility, and the spa was at one time much resorted to. Sir John Dunbar and Sir Leonard Blennerhassett erected iron-works on their estates in Fermanagh. 2 Or " Lugnacuillagh, " 1,485 feet high. 50 upper lough erne. County of Leitrim, about three miles eastward from the town of Manor Hamilton ; thence tumbling down through Glin Farm, it enters into a great lake called Lough Macnane, or Macnean, from the multitudes of fowl that frequent it ; this lake is about nine miles in length from west to east, and in its western and broadest end, three miles broad, filling up the whole bottom that lies between the mountains of Dubally on the south, the Doows and Slieve-MacGla- naghy on the west, and Belmore1 on the north. It is divided into two parts ; the western part, spreading wide, contains several large islands, some of which have great woods. In one of them is a yew wood. Near the southern shore stands the ruins of a large old castle in the water, built on a single rock that stands near half a mile out in the lough ; it was the seat of the Macga- verins, the ancient proprietors of the country. Two miles more easterly stands on the same side the old parish church of Killinah, near to which runs a large rivulet, which sometimes merges under ground, again rises and continues the frolicsome course of hiding and seeking till it enters the lake. The whole country around this upper part of Lough Macnane is exceeding wild and mountainous — the interspersion of islands and points of good land shooting into the lake makes the whole scene pleasant and romantic. This lake, having continued broad for five miles, is contracted into a 1 1,312 feet high. The Scottish-descended family of Lowry- Corry, of Castle Coole, near Enniskillen, take the title of their Earldom and Barony from this mountain. The fourth and present Earl of Belmore, k.o.m.g., &c, is author of the Hist. of the Manors of Finagh and Coole, 1881 ; and Parliamentary Memoirs of Fermanagh and Tyrone, 1887. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 51 narrow, deep canal, in which form it flows through a flat meadow for half a mile to the redoubt of Bellcoe, where is a good ford and a new bridge across it. From the' ford the lake, expanding again, continues for three miles more in length, and a good mile in breadth. The country about this lower lake, growing pleasanter, beautifies the lake with several points of good land shooting out far into it. In the very midst of the broadest part of this lake stands a small circular island, overgrown with shrubs and bushes ; it is about two hundred paces in circumference, and formed into a very strong, Danish fortification, having a high dike and foss encompassing the whole : it is now the habitation of herons, but it was, in ancient times, a stronghold, and might, if there was any occasion, be made impreg nable for a trifling expense, it being on all sides out of the reach of shot from the mainland. But the principal ornament and grandeur of this lake (Macnane) is derived from the prodigious Rock of Gortatowell, whose abrupt brow, rising to the height of 600 feet at least, hangs as a huge cliff over the south-east end of the lake. The top of this stupendous rock has a steep walk ; its front is diversified with yew and ivy, and its scalp bare ; its eastern end is adorned with a small ash wood, that creeps up the steep ; out of its western end issues the subterraneous rivulet of Gortawell Mill, before mentioned, and just under the brow of the cliff, between it and the lake, lies the great new road leading towards Sligo. It is usual for passengers to stop here and admire the awful majesty of the cliff hanging over them, and the huge lumps of rock that have tumbled down from it, and to entertain themselves with the extraordinary echo frequently reverberated between the 52 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. lake below and the hollowness of the cliff. About this cliff, as also those of Dubally, farther westward on the lake, are yet eagles of the largest kind, choice hawks, and Cornish daws, with red shanks and red bills, which are much sought after by the curious. This rock is reckoned one of the bars of Killesher : it and the ad jacent hills are so covered with all kinds of wholesome herbs that the whey of the vast herds of goats which browse along them is reckoned equal to that on the mountains of Mourne. A quarter of a mile from the cliff, on the east end, stands the parish church of Killesher, and a little below it Lough Macnane terminates. River Arney. From the east end of the lake the River Arney again issues out and continues its course through a corkou3 marsh, for a mile, till it receives, at right angles on the south side, the rapid river which tumbles down from the Marble Arch before mentioned, and is called the Claddagh River. From thence it holds its course east ward for six miles, through bogs and deep marshes, till it opens beautifully into Lough Erne, at Clonurson, a farm on the glebe of Killesher. The depth of this river (Arney) affords a free navigation, especially in the winter, between these two great loughs, Macnane and Erne, and might contribute greatly to the improvement of the country, if there was any trade to encourage it. It abounds much with large, high-tasted trouts, and is one of the principal rivers of Lough Erne for the salmon retiring to spawn. Several tons of these spent salmon used to be taken in October and November, by spread ing nets across the mouth of the river at Clonurson, UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 53 and killing them in other places of the shallows ; but the incumbent of Killesher thought it his duty to put a stop to a wicked practice, so detrimental to the public, and no less a robbery of the gentlemen to whom the fishery of Lough Erne belongs. Lough Erne. Opposite to the mouth of Arney River lies Innismore1 or the Great Island — so called because it is the greatest 1 "He (Bishop Spofctiswood) recovered also other lands his predecessor, Bishop (George) Montgomerie, was never in pos session of, as, namely, the Isle of Devenishe, from the Lord Hastings, and the greatest part of the Island Inishmore, from Sir Ralph Goore, Baronett." — Life of James Spotswood, Lord Bishop of Clochar. Hay's Memoirs, 1700 (MS., Advocates' Library). " In one of the greatest Islands of Lough Earn (Innismore ?), Sir Henry Spotteswood (son of the Bishop) had a fine seat with goodly buildings, gardens, orchards, and a pretty little village, with a church and steeple belongmg to it, which, whether it is in being yet, or destroyed by the barbarians and bloody rebels, I am not informed." — Natural Hist, of Irelo.nd, by Gerard Boate, 1652. Innismore is connected on its east side, near Gola, with the mainland, by Carry Bridge, and a viaduct is now (1892) in pro gress to unite it on the west side at Clontycoora. The following lines are from the pen of the Rev. J. W. Kaye, ll.d., Rector of Derrybrusk, to whom the public are indebted for several charming poetic illustrations of the beauties of Lough Erne scenery : — "CARRY BRIDGE." A Reverie. " One summer eve I wander'd on By lough, and mead, and ferry, Until I came and stood alone Upon the bridge of Carry. I gazed below upon the flow Of waters rolling under : My thoughts ran fast upon the past, And fill'd my mind with wonder. 54 UPPER LOUGH erne. in all Lough Erne ; being of a circular form, and about five miles in circuit ; it has on the southern side a large land lough — in form of a great basin — which has a communication with the great Lough by a deep, narrow gut. This island is an excellent soil and well in habited : the sailing round it is very pleasant. Opposite "I thought of deeds in years gone by, When brothers fought with brothers ; When kings waged war with chieftain lords — O'Neils, Maguires, and others ; And if they fought near here, I thought, 'Midst all their flight and flurry, Where would they go ? — for then you know There was no bridge at Carry. " I thought of good St. Patrick too, Who oft, in Innismore, Would preach to crowds assembled round From hill, and dale, and shore ; And there's the stone, ' worn to the bone,' Where oft all night he'd tarry In earnest prayer, in Arda there, Whene'er he pass'd through Carry. " I look'd across to Gola then, Where once the Abbey stood ; I thought of monks who counted beads In prayerful, solemn mood ; I could not name how oft they came With net and " cot " or wherry, As Fridays pass'd and Lenten fast, To catch their fish at Carry. " But twilight falls, and seems to hide The visions of the past ; The ancient feudal times are gone — 'Tis well they could not last ; And chiefs ne'er wield the sword and shield, Nor desperate spear-thrusts parry : 'Tis well 'tis so. Flow, waters, flow Beneath the bridge of Carry." UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 55 to its north-east corner stands Gola,1 the seat of Charles King,2 Esq. 1 "Golan" in MS.— "Gola," the "river forks." " Gaulse adhuc videre est aliqua antiqui Osenobii Rudera. Modernus Fundi Dominus est Jacobus King, Armiger." — Hibernia Domi nica, by Dr. Thos. Burke, 1762. "Adjoining Lough Erne, a monastery for Dominican Friars was founded and dedicated to (the Nativity of) the Blessed Virgin, by MacManus, lord of the place, of which there are still some remains, also traces of the village of Gola in which it was situated." — Lewis's Topog. Diet., Ireland, 1837. Any remains of the ancient monastery are most probably now to be found in the farm-house belonging to the daughters of the late Mr. Robert Wilson, who died 1890 (the purchaser from the landlord, Sir Charles S. King, Bart., of his farms, under Lord Ashbourne's- Act), which is part of the house occupied as a residence by the elder branch of the King family for a hundred years. The date of this Abbey's foundation is not recorded. Aldfred, King of the Northumbrian Saxons, is stated to have learned here to speak and write in the Gaelic tongue ; and his poem in praise of Erin is still extant. It is not returned in the great survey of Fermanagh, madq at Devenish, 7 July, 1603 ; and in the Inquisition at Inniskilien, 18 Sept. , 1609, to enquire into ecclesiastical lands, the only mention of the place is that it was then part of the herinagh lands of Derrybrusk. On the 1609 map of "Barony of Magherysteffanah, " it appears as an ecclesiastical edifice on the townland "eclamre," next " tate- goule " (Gola), and " farranouollan " (Farnamullan). In the Down Survey Map, 1665, the townland is recorded as " Givola." Dr. Burke describes the convents as suppressed in 1649, and restored at the Restoration. Subsequently to the latter event, Fathers Cathal ' MacManus and Thos. MacMahon erected a new house at Gola, near the ancient abbey, under the patronage of MacManus, probably a descendant of the original founder. This accounts for the existence of a monastery here so late as the 18th century, while the old Abbey was the residence of the King family. In 1756 John Maguire, aged 55, was Prior, and Thos. Nolan, aged 60, and Antony Maguire, aged 50, Brethren. (Partly from Archdail's Monastieum Hib., edited, with notes by P. Moran, d.d., 1873.) "Mr. John King remains in ye handsome seate of Gola in this Co."— MS. Hist, of Fermanagh, 1718, 1719. 2 The author is in error in describing Gola as seat of ' ' Charles " King : it was that of his elder brother, James, who had settled 56. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Below Innismore the Lough resumes the form of a spacious, silent river, and in this form embraces in its arms Cleenish Isle. This island is about three miles Corrard (p. 42) on his brother Charles, on the latter's marriage in 1731. James King [a representative of the ancient house of Barra, in the Garioch, Aberdeenshire, of which a cadet,' Sir James King, of Birness, Lieut.-General to Gustavus Adolphus and King Charles I., was, by the latter, raised to the peerage of Scotland, in 1642, as Lord Eythin (extinct)] settled in Fer managh, temp. Car. I. His name does not appear in the Crown Rental for 1643, and there is none for Ulster between that date and 1653, in which year his name appears for lands in the Baronies of Magherastephinagh, Tyrkennedy, and Lurg. He acquired freehold property in Enniskillen from Michael Cole, Esq., and is described as "of Corard," in a deed dated 15th August, 1674 ; he probably died soon after that date. He m. Nicholas Johnston, and had issue eight sons and two daughters — 1 . James King, Esq. , of Corrard and Dublin, took refuge in England in 1689 ; d. s. p. Mar. 2, 1726, leaving his Fermanagh estates to the three sons of his brother John, and his Meath property to his nephew, James (subsequently Sir James) Somerville. II. Robert King, of Lissen Hall, near Swords, agent to his cousin, William King, Archbishop of Dublin (Ap pendix II.), whom he visited during the latter's imprisonment, in 1 689 . He appears to have escaped from Dublin to the Duke of Schomberg's camp, near Lisburn, "to whom he gave an account of how things stood at Dublin," 22nd Jan., 1689-90 ; m.p. for Lifford, 1698-1703, and 1709, till his death in 1711 ; m. Marion Hamill, of the house of Roughwood, Ayrshire, and had issue two daughters : 1. Anne, m., 1700, first wife, Robert Ross, Esq., jure uxoris of Rosetrevor, Co. Down, m.p., and had issue ; 2. Mary (d. 1733), ward to Archbishop King, m. , 1713, William Smyth, Esq., of Drumcree, Westmeath, jure uxoris of Monea Manor, Co. Fermanagh, Sheriff for latter Co., 1736, m.p., and had issue. III. John King, of whom subse quently. IV. William King. V. Charles King, attainted in his absence from Ireland, 1689, m. Katherine, sister of Robert Galbraith, of Cloncorick, Co. Leitrim (heir of James Galbraith, of Balgair), and d. 1714, leaving issue two sons ; 1. Robert, of Drewstown, Co. Meath, and Raven Hill, Co. Armagh, Esq., m. his cousin, Anne (d. 1739), daughter of Rev. Thomas King, of Swords (and widow of Captain Robert Hassard, of Mount Hassard, Co. Fermanagh, Sheriff for his Co., 1719), and d. 1760, leaving two daughters, co-heiresses : Catherine, the eldest, m., 1701, his first wife, Sir James Nugent, first Bart, of UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 57 in circuit — some part of it tilled, but the far greater part grazed with black cattle, for which the extended flats that are around its shores render it very convenient. Donore, and d. s. p. 1787; Margaret, the second daughter, m. Barry, Earl of Farnham (p. 5) ; 2. John, of Mossfield, Co. Tyrone, Esq. (for whose issue vide Lord Belmore's Parlia mentary Memoirs of Co. Tyrone, s. v. "John King, Esq., M.p., Clogher, 1800"). VI. Rev. Thomas King, m.a., Prebendary of Swords ; born in Fermanagh, 1663 ; imprisoned by King James's Government in Newgate, Dublin, 1689 ; m. Elizabeth (d. 1731), daughter and heiress of John Bernard, Esq., of Drumin, Co. Louth (and widow of Rev. John Archdale, Vicar of Lusk, 1679-1690), and d. 1709, leaving issue. VII. Crom well King. VIII. David King, Esq., Sheriff of Dublin, 1716-17 ; at his house in Skinner's Row a large quantity of the Public Records were secreted during the Revolution ; m., 1696-7, Anne Weir (d. 1755, mt. 78), and d. 1737, leaving issue (extinct). The two daughters (of James King, the first of Corrard) were: I. Katherine King, m. Thomas Somerville, Alderman of Dublin, third son of Thomas Somerville (d. 1669), of Drumadown, Co. Fermanagh [and Jean, his spouse, daughter of James Warnock, of Enniskillen ; she m. secondly Robert Galbraith, attainted 1689, and had issue by him], third son of James Somerville, of Tullykelter, Co. Fermanagh (d. 1642), of the house of Cambus- nethan, Ayrshire (and his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Hamilton, of Brimhill) ; she d. 1725, leaving issue by her hus band, Alderman Somerville (who d. 1718), one son, Sir James Somerville, Knt., ancestor of the Barons Athlumney and Meredyth, and four daughters. II. Elizabeth King, m. Captain Robert Clarke, of Inniskilling, who was one of the five who first took arms to defend that town agamst King James's troops, and raised a company for the purpose ; he was attainted 1 689 ; she left issue by her husband, who d. 1716. The aforenamed John King, of Gola, Esq., probably took part in the defence of Enniskillen in 1689, as his name appears in the list of signatories to the address to King William and Queen Mary from that town in 1690 (Appendix II.) ; he m. (vivens 1711), and d. 1720-26, leaving issue three sons : I. James King, of Gola, Esq., Sheriff for the co unty, 1728, who presented the communion plate to Derryvollan Church (p. 58) ; Clerk (1749) of the Forfeitures, Dublin; m., first, Margaret Irwin, or Irvine, who d., 1735, s. p. ; secondly, Katherine, daughter of William Gore, d.d., Dean of Down, uncle of the Earl of Ross (p. 45), and d. 1756, leaving issue two sons and one daughter, viz. : 1. James, of Gola, Captain, 1760, in the 92nd (Lord Ross's) Regiment, and, in 1761, in 58 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. In it are the ruius of the parish church, which takes its name from the island. Adjoining to this is another large island, Inniskeen j1 in this, also, are the ruins of an old church. At the north end of a long, broad canal, which shoots down from Innismore, between Cleenish to the west, and Derrybrusk2 to the east, stands on a hill the Church of Derryvullan,3 and adjoining to it the seat of John 20th Foot, retired 1772 ; m. his cousin (ward to Lord Ross), Elizabeth, only daughter of Chidley Coote, of Mount Coote, Co. Limerick, Esq., and d„ leaving an only son, James, in H. E. I. Co.'s service, Secretary to Board of Trade, Bengal, who d. s. p. I. in London, 1823-6 ; Gola was purchased, 1815, by his cousin, Abraham Bradley King, Esq. ; 2. William, Major, 58th, d. s. p.; 1. Hannah Honora, m., 1764, Edward Sneyd, Esq., M.p., and had issue (p. 24). II. Charles King, of Corrard, Fermanagh, Esq., m., 1731, Elizabeth (d. 1790), daughter of Rev. James Cottingham, m.a., of Ardmagh, Co. Cavan (by Mary, daughter of Rev. William Greene, of Dresternan, Fer managh (p. 15), and d. 1788. His grandson, the aforenamed Abraham Bradley King, Esq., of Corrard, created a Baronet in 1821, was father of the Rev. Sir James Walker King, second Baronet, and grandfather of Sir Charles Simeon King, third and present Bart. III. Robert King, of Derrybrusk, Co. Fermanagh, vivens 1736, d. s. p., leaving a widow. 1 " Enniskean " in MS. "Inis-Caoin," the beautiful island. The town of Enniskillen was formerly included in this parish. Canon Bradshaw records, in Enniskillen Long Ago, that vestry meetings were held in this old church down to the year 1738. 2 Derrybrusk House, successively belonging to the Mont- gomerys and to the Deerings, was purchased by the late R. Hall, Esq., J. p., and re-named Innismore Hall; it is now the seat of his representatives, George Gray, Esq., and Mrs. Gray. 3 A handsome service of communion plate (tankard, chalice, and paten), engraved with his family arms, crest, and motto, was presented to this church by James King, Esq., of Gola (p. 57), which was formerly in this parish, and bears the in scription " Ex dono Jacobi King de Gola, arm8, Ecclesise de Derrwoylan, A.D. 1727." Since the division of the old parish into two new ones, in 1874, the mother church, where this plate is still in use, is named Derryvollan South. =k UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 59 Rynd,1 Esq., which is well shaded with trees, and com mands a prospect of this spacious canal and the adjoin ing islands. Below Derryvullan, the several small arms of the Lough which circulate round these islands are gathered into one serpentine canal, which makes a beautiful meander of near a mile round Rind MacMorrish, that is, FitzMaurice Point, that shoots out from the east side of the Lough almost in the form of an horse-shoe. On the west side shoots out another point which indents with this. Below these points, the Lake, continuing in the form of a spacious serpentine river, bends under the old Abbey and Castle of Lisgoole.2 The situation of this 1 This surname is Scottish, and frequently to be met with on the Perth Registers. The first of the family in this county appears to have been " David Rynd, of Inniskillinge, the elder." He was a commonwealth tenant of the lands of Carrow in 1659 ; m. Margaret (d. 1675, at. 67, buried at Enniskillen, where is a tablet to her memory), daughter of Christopher Irvine, Esq., widow of Colonel Richard Bell, and of Captain Thomas Maxwell (Canon Bradshaw's Enniskillen Long Ago, 1878). He was buried at Enniskillen, 1677, leaving issue — David Rynd, Esq., of Derryvollan, Sheriff for his county, 1681 ; Provost, Enniskillen, 1682 ; attainted, 1689 ; d. 1723, leaving issue by Margaret, his wife, three daughters and three sons, of whom the younger were Christopher, and Thomas, of Dublin, merchant (will proved, 1709) ; and the eldest, John Rynd, Esq., of Derryvollan, and Dartry, Co. Leitrim, Sheriff for Fermanagh, 1708, d. 1746, est. 73, leaving issue one daughter and five sons, the younger were Rev. James Rynd, of Derryvollan (will proved 1746), Thomas, John, Richardson ; and the eldest, David Rynd, Esq., of Derryvollan; Sheriff, 1745; m., 1746, Mary, daughter of Oliver Moore, Esq., of Sanlistown, and d. (will proved 1758), leaving issue an only child, Mary (ol. 1774), m., 1769, Edward Denny, Esq., m.p., Tralee (d. 1775), brother of Sir Barry Denny, first Bart., of Tralee Castle, and by her was ancestor of Rev. Edward Denny, m.a., the present Vicar of Kempley, Dymock, Glos. 2 "Lisgold" in MS. In the early ages of Christianity a monastery was founded at Lisgoole ; and afterwards, in 1106, 60 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. seat is equally august and charming, for it stands on the top of a beautiful evergreen hill that rises steep, but not abrupt, over the Lake on its west side, and from this eminence commands a large prospect of this serpentine canal in its several circlings and indentures. The Castle was once a place of strength, but was destroyed in the rebellion of 1641 by the Macguires, who stained it with the blood of above one hundred Protestants — men, women, and children — whom they killed and burned to death in it at once ; since that time it has lain in ruins.1 From Lisgoole the Lake — which hitherto flowed northward — changes its course a little, and bends west ward for the remaining part of its course. an abbey for Augustinians, by O'Neil, King of Ulster, on its site. In 1360 this abbey was burnt down. Early in the 16th century, Fitzcuchonnaght Maguire, Lord of Fermanagh, agreed to rebuild it ; but before its completion, in 1530, Henry VIII. dissolved monastic institutions (Canon Bradshaw's Enniskillen Long Ago). Mr. Wakeman, in Lough Erne, 1870, gives the inscription on a chalice presented "by Sir Bryan Maguire, Knight of the Noble Order Militaire of St. Louis, for y° use of ye convent of Lisgoole, in the Co. of Fermanagh, near Ennis killen, a.d. 1739." This proves that the Abbey of Lisgoole, like that of Gola, continued in existence to a comparatively recent period. Sir John Davis, Knt., had an assignment of Lisgoole from Sir Henry Bruncker, the patentee, in 1606, and, on his death, in 1630, it passed to his daughter, Lucy, and her husband, Ferdinando, Lord Hastings. John Armstrong, Esq., of Lisgoole, m., 1788, Sophia, daughter of 9th Baron Blayney, and had issue an only child, Elizabeth, m. , 1808, Sir Charles Dodsworth, 3rd Bart, of New- land Park, Co. York; she d. 1853, and was grandmother of the present Sir Charles E. Dodsworth, 5th Bart. "The Armstrong- Blayney marriage gave Miss R. M. Roche the idea of her story of 'The Children of the Abbey.'"— (Lt.-Gen. G. S. Mont gomery's Hist, of Montgomery of Ballyleck, &c). Lisgoole was the residence of Mrs. Jones, who died this year (1892). Some portion of the old Abbey is incorporated in the present house. 1 Opposite Lisgoole is Bellevue, the handsome seat of Capt. Wm. Collum, d.l. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 61 Below Lisgoole the Lough flows for a mile in the form of a river to Scarlet's Weir. Here it is so con tracted between two gravelly banks that it is not above a hundred paces over; it quickens also into a small stream, and is so shallow in a dry summer that large boats pass with difficulty. At this weir are taken in the summer season great quantities of salmon,1 and in the beginning of winter great quantities of large silver eels, but the damage done to the public by it, and the shallow ford on which it stands, is exceeding great, for it is in this strait and ford which dams up all the upper part of Lough Erne, and causes it to overflow so many rich lands. I may venture to say, that it would be very practicable for a small expense laid out in removing this weir and cutting the ford deeper, so to sink the upper part of the Lake as to recover several thousand acres of the richest land in the country which are over flowed a great part of the year, and so to reform the many marshes as to make them become in a short time choice land.2 ' " Formerly the people and gentry of the country had salmon at a very easy rate at sixpence per piece ; . . . . but since the Revolution they either can't have them at all, or at what they count an excessive rate." — Ofthe Salmon Fishing of 'Ireland, by His Grace (Wm. King, d.d.) the Abp. of Dublin, in Boate's Natural Hist, of Ireland, 1726. 2 ' ' The navigation of the Shannon, if it were once vigorously and effectually carried on, and the cutting a canal from Lough Erne to the seaport of Ballyshannon, would be two undertakings of vast advantage to our inland commerce, and indeed the last would be so feasible, and have such effects on that part of the kingdom, that it cannot long be overlooked." — Reflections and Resolutions Proper for the Gentlemen of Ireland, &c, by Rev. Sam. Madden, d.d., 1738. The plan for keeping the Lough at a nearly uniform level, summer and winter, promoted by Mr. J. G. V. Porter, of Belle isle (p. 45), and carried out by the Local Drainage Board from 1880 to 1891, has been not that here proposed by Dr. Madden, 62 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. The Lough, being disentangled from this difficult strait, receives on its south side Sillies River1 — before mentioned — which twists into it through a broad corkous meadow, and expands itself again into an easy spread ing bay under the Church of Rossory, half a mile below which it circles round the so much celebrated town and island of Enniskillen.2 This town is the metropolis and only borough in the county of Fermanagh. It is most charmingly situated, being built on a small oblong island, which consists of two little hills and a few flat skirts, which are over flowed in winter. The whole island is scarcely half a mile in length, and a quarter in breadth. At each end it is joined to the mainland by a large stone bridge. That branch of Lough Erne which flows by its western end is the deepest and largest, and is the general but one more in accord with the author's suggestion, viz. : the removal of obstructions such as shoals and stones, the cutting and dredging of deep channels where needful, the removal of the old eel weir at Belleek, and the cutting of the falls there, and the erection of four sluices on the site of the crest of the falls, these sluices being each 29 feet 4 inches wide, 14 feet deep, and capable of being raised 9 feet high from an overhead bridge. Owing to the excessive cost entailed in the execution of the works, amounting with interest on the money spent, to £181,557 16s. Od., in addition to a Treasury grant of £30,000 for navi gation purposes, the material benefit to those interested will be neutralized by the heavy assessments payable for 49 years from 10 Oct., 1890. 1 " Syllys " in MS. It rises in the mountains near Church Hill, parish of Innismacsaint, and is a considerable river, partly navigable. 2 " The name as spelt in Irish is Inis Caithlen, or Caithlinn, i.e., the Isle of Kehlen. Inthe 'Annals of Clonmacnoise ' it is stated that this island took its name from Cethlen (Kehlen), wife of Balor of the great blows, chief of the Fomorians, a race of pirates who infested the coasts of Ireland, and oppressed the inhabitants far into the interior." — Canon Bradshaw's Ennis- ¦ Long Ago, 1 878. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 63 passage of great boats, for which end the piers of the bridge are raised high, and the arches are left wide. The bridge1 on the western branch has a square tower, with a gateway and guard-room standing in the midst ; the other, on the eastern,2 had once a draw-bridge. The figure which this town makes to the eye bears no proportion to the great figure it has made in history. It consists of one broad street, which reaches along the ridge of the hills from bridge to bridge, and of a few alleys and gardens thatv descend to the Lake on both sides. There are scarcely in the whole town 150 houses, and most of these but indifferent cabins, it not having yet recovered from the flames which reduced it to ashes about thirty years ago (Appendix IL). Its principal buildings are the Castle, the seat of the Coles,3 'A new bridge, "The Erne Bridge," has been recently erected here by the Lough Erne Drainage Board. 2 The draw-bridge was put up in 1688. 3 The representative in 1739 of this ancient Devonshire family, and great-great-grandson of Sir William Cole, Knt., the first settler in Ireland, and founder of the modern town of Ennis killen, who died in 1653, was John Cole, Esq., Sheriff of Fer managh, 1733 ; m.p. , Enniskillen, 1729, till he was created in 1760 Baron Mountflorence, of Florencecourt (p. 14) in the Peerage of Ireland ; m., 1728, Elizabeth, daughter of Hugh Willoughby Montgomery, Esq., of Carrow, Co. Monaghan, and d. 1767, leaving, with two daughters, two sons, of whom the eldest, William Willoughby, succeeded as second Baron, and was created, 1776, Viscount Enniskillen, and, in 1789, Earl of Enniskillen ; his son, John Willoughby, second Earl, had the Barony of Grin- stead in the peerage of the U. K. conferred upon him, 1815. The third and late Earl (son of the second Earl), William Willoughby, was a great lover of geological science ; a Fellow of the Geological Society of London, 1828, and one of the oldest members of the Geological Club ; a Fellow of the Royal Society, 1829; and a member of the Royal Irish Academy; a D.C.L., and LL.D., of Trinity College, Dublin. The collection of fossil fishes formed by his lordship was one of the most complete probably in the world. He published, in 1869, an Alphabetical 64 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. who are proprietors of the town, and a great part of the country around. It stands beautifully over the Lake, at the western end of the town, a little above the bridge. It was once strong and capacious, but is now in ruins. A little above this, on the top of the western hill, stands the Church,1 which is a large and strong old building. From its steeple there is a delightful prospect of the Lough and the country around. Under the Church, on the northern side of the town, by the Catalogue of the Type Specimens of Fossil Fishes in the Collection of the Earl of Enniskillen. When Lord Cole, he appears to have worked zealously with Sir Philip de Malpas Grey Egerton, Bart., associated with whom he published A Systematic and Stratigraphical Catalogue of Fossil Fish in both their collections. He d. 1886, cet. 80, and was succeeded by his eldest surviving son, Lowry Egerton, the present and fourth Earl of Enniskillen. 1 Of the church erected in 1637 the tower alone remains. The present edifice was completed in 1842. The Rector at the time of the old church's erection' was John Smith, who subse quently retired to England, and died at Bondgate, Co. York, in 1652, and a tablet was placed to his memory in Ripon Cathedral. In his will, dated 8th Feb., 1652, is the following quaint "memo.": — "That my wif e (Deborah) hath in her custody a chalice and cover for it, woh Mr. Edward Davis, at my request, gave to the use of the Church of Inisskillin, and is to bee restored to that Church when the parrishioners shall pay my Executrix fouer pounds, six shillings, eight pence, which I layd out for them in paveinge and plasteringe the said churche." This chalice, still in use in Enniskillen Church, bears the inscription — " Poculum Ecclesiae Parochialis de Eniskeene, ex dono Edvardi Davis generosi, anno 1638." It is noteworthy that John Smith mentions as his brothers-in-law "Dr. Margettson '' (Query ? the subsequent Archbishop of Dublin, and, on the death of John Bramhall, Primate of Ireland), and " Mr. William Bramhall ;" and " John Bramhall " is a witness. The two future Primates were natives of Yorkshire, and had both taken refuge in England. A Sunday School was instituted " at Enniskillen under the patronage of Sir James Caldwell, Bart., and Jas. Hall, Esq., (which now consists of 180 children), who pay James Kiernan £18 4s. for superintending the school." (Dublin Chronicle, Aug. 7, 1788). UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 65 Lough, stands the School.1 It is the best endowed with lands of any school in Ireland. On the top of the eastern hill, which is the principal part of the town, is a square where the markets are held. On one side of this square stands a Barrack for two companies of foot. At the eastern end of the town, near the bridge, stands a large Court-house, under which is a strong vaulted gaol. Nor is this town much more remarkable for strength than buildings. It has neither walls nor dike nor any other advantage, but what it derives from its being an island ; nor is this very great, as the Lake on each end is but narrow, and the hills on the mainland command it. Two of these hills — one hanging over each end of the town — seem to be of great importance to preserve : that on the west side rises high from the end of the bridge ; it has on each side a large land lough, 1 Founded in 1627, it was removed, 1777, to Portora. " Enniskillen, 22nd Jan., 1629. Richard Boorke, Master of the Free Schoole of the Co. Fermanagh, by himselfe and his ushers, hath diligently executed and discharged the place or office of a schoole-master at Ballibalfore in the said Co. for 2 yeares until the 15th June last 1629, or thereabouts, since which tyme, for the most parte, he hath discontinued the keeping thereof in his owne pson, but, since that time, hath left two Ushers to instruct the schollers. The number of schollers in the said schoole now are three score or thereabouts, all except 3 beinge Irish natives." — Inquisitions, Co. Fermanagh. Mr. Thomas Dunbar, a subsequent master, m. Catherine, 4th daughter of Alexander Conyngham, Dean of Raphoe (widow of James Leslie (p. 23), attainted 1689, and d. s. p. 1690-5. " The Free School now (1719) under the care and tuition of Mr. Charles Grattan." — MS. Hist, of Fermanagh. Mr. Grattan, m.a., ex-i?.T.c.D. (p. 44), died 1746, and was succeeded by Rev. William Dunkin, d.d., who had been Latin Master of St. Michael's le Pole, Dublin— ' ' the best English, as well as Latin, poet in this kingdom." — Swift. F 66 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. between which and Lough Erne there are narrow passes, so that by this situation this hill commands the two only approaches to the town on that side : the other at the eastern end is stronger and of more consequence ; it rises from the end of the bridge regularly in the form of a cone ; it is steep and has on its south side the Lough, and around the rest of its bottom a corkous marsh ; on the top is built a strong fort of sods, which commands all around ; from this there is cut a covered way down the hill to the bridge, by which the communication with the town is preserved. The whole hill is covered with camomile. On the preservation or loss of this hill and fort that of the town chiefly depends. What gave this town so great a name was the fervour and courage of the Protestants, who in the late wars retired into this fastness, as into a camp, and having here formed themselves into regular bodies, issued out against the enemy on all sides. A great number of these gallant men were the inhabitants of Fermanagh ; but beside these there were many others gathered to them from the neighbouring counties of Cavan, Mon aghan, Donegal, Leitrim, and a large body of the Protestants of County Sligo, who being treacherously drawn out of the fort of Sligo by Lundy, Governor of Derry, retired hither under the conduct of Col. Lloyd. All these, from the place to which they retired, went by the name of Inniskilleners. These men in all their battles, at Burndroose,1 Newtownbutler2, Cavan, Boyne, and Aughrim, and several skirmishes, distinguished themselves with an intrepidity and ardour which nothing could withstand ; difficulties and dangers — instead of 1 Or Bundrowse, May, 1689. 2 On 31 July, 1689 (pp. 27-34). UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 67 abating — served only to increase and raise it, and to make them come off the more victorious. It is too low a name to call the spirit wherewith they were animated courage : it was rather a Divine fire kindled in them from above, and kept alive by a just sense of the inestimable value of these two blessings, religion and liberty ! But lest they should imagine it was their own sword and arm that helped them, it pleased God to suffer them to receive a severe stroke at their own doors, and in a place where, of all others, they had the greatest advantage. In the interim while Col. Lloyd was absent with the chosen body which defeated the Connaught army at Burndroose, and about three days before the battle of Newtownbutler, the Duke of Berwick — according to the plan before mentioned1 — marched up with a body of horse — wherewith he covered the siege of Derry — in order to attack the Inniskilleners from the north, while the other two armies fell on them from the south and west, he approaching with his body of horse within half a mile of the town to the strong pass of Cornaerea Mill. This is a very narrow pass, and has on the south side Lough Erne, and on the north side a large land lough, three miles in circuit, beyond which is a morassy country : between these two loughs the northern road runs as a tocher ; at the end of the pass next the town stands a strong mill and a few houses ; and a little behind it rises the fort at the end of the town which commands all; it is evident, from the situation and natural security of this pass, that a few 1 P. 29. 68 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. men placed in the mill and lining the ditches might defend it against a great army. The Inniskilleners — on the hearing of the Duke of Berwick's approach — detached two companies of foot under the command of Captain McCormack1 — supported by two troops of horse — with strict orders not to advance beyond the pass : had these orders been observed, in all human probability the success would have answered the design, but these bold men, not accustomed to the patient manner of expecting an enemy, no sooner saw the Duke of Ber wick's troops appear on the opposite hill, but bounding at them, as lions to their prey, flew beyond the pass, and attacked them on the descent of the hill. Here they fought with the utmost disadvantages — foot, sword in hand, against horse — the hill, and the weight of an heavy-armed body descending it, to struggle against — 72 men only against 700 ! Vet, with all these disad vantages, they stood till they were cut down on the spot. Of the two companies only eleven men, and those desperately wounded, returned to the town. The horse, which were sent to support them, in obedience to their orders, stopped at the pass, and maintained it against the Duke of Berwick, who, observing the intrepidity of these men, and the impracticableness of the plan which was concerted, returned immediately back by the way he came. This was an heavy stroke to the Inniskilleners, and doubly felt by them, inasmuch ' Wm. MacCarmick was taken prisoner on this occasion, and was kindly dealt with by the Duke of Berwick, until released by Col. Wolseley, about three weeks after. He was one of the five who first resolved on taking up arms and defending Ennis killen against K. James's forces [the other four being Robert Clarke (p. 57), Wm. Browning, and Allan Cathcart, sub sequently three of the Captains of the Inniskillen forces, and James Ewart,] and author of A Farther Impartial Account of the Actions ofthe Inniskilling Men. — Lond., 1691. UPPER LOUGH ERNE. 69 as it was the first, and most of the men who fell in this engagement were the inhabitants of the town, who were killed in the very sight of their friends and families ; yet the courage of these few was not without a good effect, for it greatly animated all the rest to fight with unparalleled spirit, which appeared .... Finis. [ 71 ] APPENDIX I. Enniskillen in 1611. " There is a fair and strong wall newly erected of lime and stone 26 feet high with flankers, parapet, and a walk on the top of the wall built by Capt. Wm. Colle (Cole), constable thereof, towards which he had £200 sterling from the king. A fair house begun upon the foundation of the old castle, with other convenient houses for store and munition. The bawn is ditched about with a fair large ditch, and the river on one side with a good drawbridge. The king has three good boats there ready to attend all services. On a large piece of ground which adjoins the fort the captain has built a good timber house, after the English fashion, in which he and his family now dwell." — State of Ulster Plantation, 1611. Three years previously Sir Arthur Chichester notices that " in this county (Fermanagh) there is neither town nor civil habitation. Inishkellin is the fittest place in his opinion for the shire town ; . . . it is now altogether waste and desolate. But that His Majesty has a ward in the castle." List of the First Provost and. Burgesses of Enniskillen, 1612. The Lord Deputy ordered, 20 Oct., 1612, the Attorney- General to draw forth a fiant of Incorporation of the town of Inishkellin, with the following names : — " Captain e William Cole, Provost, 1. Sir John Wisher (Wishart), Knt., 2. Roger Atkinson, Esq., 3. Robert Calvert, Esq. , 4. Henry Huninges, Esq., 5. Thomas Barton, Esq., 6. Edmund Sybthorpe, Gent., 7. Thomas Shaw, 8. William Hall, 9. Nicholas Ozenbrooke, 10. Alexander Dunbar, 11. Edward Moore, 12. Alexander Wighain, 13. Ferdinando Burfeild, 14. Joseph Walters." 72 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. Sir Arthur Chichester appends a note to the above list : — " These cannot well stand, for those he should name must be of the town. These are undertakers." A copy of the same list has " Captaine Roger Atkinson " and " Edward Sipthorpe." • — Calendar State Papers (Irish Series), 1611-1614. The Names of the Townesmen of Eneskillin and their Armes, a.d. 163 — . 1. 2. 3.4. 5.6. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. Provest, Frauncis Bird ; Gerrard Wiggan David Williams Thomas Browning Thomas Smith Andrew Lewis 7. Ralph Pickring 8. Andrew Ward William Johnston John Harrison Thomas Little Gilbert Johnston William Wheatlow 14. Thomas Hogg 15. James Johnston 16. Mungo Rotherfeild 17. Thomas Hill 18. William Oram 19. James M'Kilmay 20. George Bochonan John Davis ... Robert King John Amerson John Ford ... 25. John Hays ... 26. Richard Nyst 27. John Padge ... 28. William Hogg Richard Smyth John Davison William Boochannan John Blany John Radcliff John Carroll John Mouse David Logan Richard Maior 21.22. 23. 24. 29.30.31.32. 33. 34. 35.36.37. Sword onely. Sword and pike. Sword onely. »» >» Sword and pike. Sword onely. »» )> Sword and Pike. Sword onely. Sword and pike. Sword onely. >> )» Sword and pike. Sword and callener. Sword onely. Sword and callener. Sword onely. Sword and pike. Sword onely. Sword and callener. Sword and pike. Sword onely. Sword and pike. Sword onely. Sword and callener. Pike onely. Sword and Halbert. Sword onely. No armes. APPENDIX II. 73 38. William Grible ... ... No armes. 39. John Frith ... ... „ 40. Jeremy Gleene ... ... ,, 41. John Maxwell ... ... , , 42. George Gylesby ... ... ,, 43. Robert Ree ... ... ... ,, 44. *Rynyon Watson ... ... ,, 45. Georg Nichols ... ... ,, 46. John Caldwell ... ... ,, 47. Christopher Charleton ... ,, 48. *Rynyon Armestrong ... , , 49. Thomas M'Cartan, younger ... ,, 50. David Minshaw ... ... ,, 51. Brian Johnston ... ... ,, 52. Thomas Yates ... ... „ Barony of Magherbuy." " The Muster Roll ofthe county of ffarmanagh." — B.M. * Ninian. APPENDIX II. The Inniskilleners. " The Address sent from Inniskillen by Mr. Andrew Hamilton, and presented to their Majesties at Hampton Court, 12th Oct., 1689. To theie Most Excellent Majesties K. William and Queen Mary. The humble address of the Governour, Officers, Clergy and other Inhabitants of your Majesties Town of Iniskillin, in your Majesties Kingdom of Ireland. We, your Majesties most Faithful and most Loyal Subjects, do in the first place offer up unto Almighty God our most humble Thanks for the Deliverance vouchsafed us from our Merciless and Bloody Enemies ; and next unto your most Sacred Majesties, for your gracious care taken of us, and in sending Major-General Kirk to the relief of the poor handful of your Majesties' Protestant Subjects left in this place, and Derry (whose miraculous holding out, under God, has been the preservation of the Protestant interest in this Kingdom), and for those worthy Officers sent to this place by him, among which the Honourable Colonel William Wolsley, our Com- 74 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. mander-in-Chief, under whose great and happy conduct God has been pleased to bless us with the most signal and remark able victory obtained over our enemy, in this or the former age. And as we were early in the demonstration of our loyalty in proclaiming your Most Sacred Majesties, on the eleventh day of March last, so we shall persevere in the same dutiful allegiance to our lives' end, ever imploring the Divine Majesty to continue your prosperous reign long, and long over us, most humbly begging your Most Sacred Majesties favourably to accept this Address of our most humble and sincere obedience, which we shall ever be ready to make good both with our hearts and hands. Gustavus Hamilton, Govern. Tho. Lloyd. Dan. Hodson. W. Smith. Morgan Hart. Allex. Acheson. Isaac Collyer. George Dury. Tho. White. William Wiseheart. Robert Moor. Fran. Folliot. John Dean. Fran. Graham. William Irvine. Ja. Graham. Tho. Roscrow. Andrew Montgomery. Daniel French. Henry Smith. Richard Newstead. Robert Starling. Henry Johnston. Matthew Webster. William Slack. Allan Cathcart. An. Hamilton. James Johnston. Ja. Golden. Arnold Cosbye. tJo. Price. Robert Johnston. Francis Aldrich. William Parsons. Ambrose Bedel. Tho. Hart. Edw. Dixy. Ichabod Skelson.J Hen. Howel. Robert Stevenson. Thomas Johnston. William Johnston. Thomas Osborn. Thomas Scot. John Lowder. William Kitlo. William Birney. James King. f Jo. Rider. Christopher Carleton. Ja. Devitt. Charles mac Fayden. Lawrence Crow. Edward Ellis. William Blashford. Robert Clark. William Browning. Ja. Johnston. Ja. Browning. Roger Wilton. Ed. Wood. F. King. Robert Drury. John Browning. Ja. Campbell. George Cashell. Povey Hookes. John Armstrong. Toby Mulloy. Robert Vaughan. APPENDIX II. H. Hughs. Robert Wear. Jason Hazard. Malcolme Cathcart. Tho. Hughes. Robert Robinson. James Matthews. Hugh Montgomery. Mart. Armstrong. George Cooper. *Claud. Bealy. Hu. Cathcart. Ninian Scot. Hugh Corry. Tho. Armstrong. Ed. Davenport. Jo. Frisell. Au. Ellis. Dan. Armstrong. fJo. Woodward. Matthew Youug. William Gore. Marc. Buchanan. William Charleton. George Wattson. George Russell. Ro. MacConnell. Aylet Sammes. Ja. Robinson. Ja. Mitchell. Jo. Roberts. Mat. Lindsay. Ro. Ward. Thomas Davenport. Bar. Gibson. All. Fulton. Jo. Crozier. Paul Dean, Provost. Hu. Blair. Ja. Ewart. ¦j-Jo. King. Jo. Ballard. Thomas Young. Thomas Shore. John Fulton. Richard Taylor. George Hart. Ed. Gubbin. James Matthews. § Thomas Leturvel. Ja. Lucy. George Hamersley. Francis Ellis. William Frith. Hercules Ellis. t Jo. Hall. John Corry . Robert Johnston. Jo. Neper. Cor. Donnellan. James Corry. Theo. Bury. John Sheriffs. Hu. Galbraith. George Corry. William Ross. Samuel Forth. John Galbraith. James Cathcart. Matthew Young. Edward Cosbye. James Delap. William MacCormick. William Ball. William Campbell. Jo. Smith." Charles King." J Skelton. * BeaJy ? § Latoumel. •f " Jo " was an old abbreviation for John, and not, as now, iseph. 75 A True Relation of the Actions of the InnisMUing-Men. By Andbew Hamilton, Bector of Kilskerrie, &c. Lond. 1690. 76 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. " Brigadier Wm. Wolsely's Regt. of Horse, broke in Ireland, 1698. (Add. MSS. 9762.— B.M.) ( Lieut. Coll. Wm. Berry, 3/-, and Field Officers | Capt. 7/- l Major Thorn' Price Richard Wolsely Francis Folliot ... John Auchmooty IWm.Blashfort ... Captaines Lievtenants Cornetts Quarter M" Adjutant /Sam" Forth James Johnson1 ... John Green John Deane Robt. Johnson" ... Lane' Irwyn /Thorn. Featherston. Rich4 Berry James Cathcart Peter Sandys Daniel Harford ... ^ Lane* Carlton I Thos. Wingfield ... James Humphrys Henry Dixon Francis Aldrige ... Mich'Waldron ... Gerard Irwyn Herbert Price ... New Subsist. p. annum. £ s. d. 146 0 0 127 15 0 91 5 0 91 5 0 91 5 0 91 5 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 45 12 6 45 12 6 45 12 6 45 12 6 45 12 6 45 12 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 36 10 0 Note 1.— In Half Pay List, 24 Oct. 1699, "Johnston. " Coll. Abrah. Creighton's Regt. of Foote, broke in Ireland, 1698. New Subsist. p. annum. £ s. d. f Abraham Creighton as Coll. att 5/-, | and as Capt. 4/- ... ...146 0 0(?) Field Officers I Jn° Caufield as Liev' Coll. at 2/6, ! and as Capt. 4/- .. ... 109 10 0 I Malch. Hamilton as Major at 1/8, l- and as CaDt. 4/- and as Capt. 4/- 91 5 0 APPENDIX II. 77 Captaines Lievtenants George Brooks' Vacant2 David Creighton Abra. Green3 ... Wm. Browning Alex. Achison Francis Johnston Thorn" Johnston, Junr Mich. Cole James Browning 'John Orban ... Richd. Arbuthnett George Hewson4 George Corry5 Robert Montgomry Guy Carlton ... Francis Green3 George Graham Alex' Fulton George Johnston Ralph Picken6 James Devitt' Gabriell Shore [George Cashill8 Jn° Creighton Henry Cosby ... Jn° Armstrong Edwd. Napper Jn° Johnston9 Henry Hodkinson10 Tho" Vincent Jn° Browning Jas. Laynge" Mau Buchanon'2 Jn° Johnston'3 Wm. B.amilton ^, ay nu (Luke Davis as Adjutant" Staff Officers |Thos_ ^^ QuJter W NOTE. In Half Pay List, 21 Oct. 1699— '"Brook;" 2 vacancy filled by Jas. Trailboy; 3 " Greene ;" 4 "Houston;" 5" Carry ;" 6"Pickm;" 7"Devct;" 8 " Cashell ;" 9 " John Johnston, Senr. ;" 10 " Hod^kinson ;" " " Lainge ;" l2 " Mau rice Buchanon ;" 13 " Jn° Johnston, Junr. ;" 14 " Adjutant Clarke." Ensignes New Subsist p. annum. £ s. d. 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 54 15 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 36 10 0 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 27 7 6 36 10 0 36 10 0 78 UPPER lough erne. " Officers of Brig" Tiffin's Regiment disbanded. Captain Henry Cookeman. Captain John Woodwart. Lt. Leonard Thickpenny. lit. Thomas Keire. Ens" Andrew Singleton. Ens" Henry Gore." The Great Fire in Enniskillen, June 2, 1705. " In the year 1705 the place was almost wholly destroyed by fire, ' whereby 114 families and their servants suffered very severe losses, and the barrack of Her Majesty with all the utensils thereto belonging sustained great damage.' In con sequence of this great public calamity, a memorial was presented to the Duke of Ormond, then Lord Lieutenant, on behalf of the sufferers to grant them the benefit of public collections ; in this the memorialists declare, — ' ' That yr Petrs. have been very much decayed and lessened in their substance, not only by the maintaining many thousands of poor stript Protestants, who came for protection in the late Rebellion, but several terrible fires that have happened in the said Town, particularly one that happened on Saturday the 2nd of June inst., which has to a very small matter, reduced the whole Town to ashes ; and was so sudden and violent, that they saved little or nothing of their household goods and other effects, so that they have (by the best computation) lost to the value of £8,000." This proposed collection from ' house to house throughout the kingdom, and in all Cathedrals and parish churches ' was approved by the Lord Lieutenant, and ordered to continue in force in Ireland for a year from the 23rd of June, 1705 ; the Bp. of Clogher and Capt. James Corry, of Castlecoole, M.p., were appointed trustees of the fund. — Canon Bradshaw's Ennis killen Long Ago, 1878. In order to obtain a Brief from the Crown authorizing public collections for the same object in England, Sir Michael Cole applied to the Abp. of Dublin, and the following letters on the subject were written, and have been printed in Parliamentary Memoirs cf Tyrone, 1887 : — APPENDIX II. 79 * "Pall Mall, Augt. Zrd, 1705. S* I reca a letter from you when I was at Tunbridge about Iniskillin, as soon as I came to town I waited on his Grace the Duke of Ormond, he told me he had spoke to the Queen about the affair, and was in hopes to p'cure a brief in England. He said if I remember right that Corry the Knight for the Shire had press'd him much in it, and he had engaged to him to do his best, and Mr. Portlock, his Secretary, told me the same again. I left a memorial with Mr. Portlock for his Grace, and (he) seems zealous in it ; My Ld. ordered me to do so. I am of opinion that you shou'd if possible wait on his Grace, and make him sensible of the case of that poor town, for none can do it more feelingly nor has a better title to do it. I have heard that there was some contest amongst the people, whom they shou'd employ about this matter. 'Tis necessary to pitch on p'sons that will be gratefull (i.e., acceptable) to the Duke his Grace, for if anything be obtained it must be by him. I give you this hint because a little mistake may spoil all. My respects to my Ldy. I recommend you to Gd., and am &c, W. DUBLIN. SK Michael Cole, Egham near Stains, Middlesex." * "Tunbridge Wells, Aug. 12, 1705. May it please youe. Grace, I mentioned to your Grace the affair of Iniskillin and found your Grace well appris'd of it, the bearer Sr. Gustavus Hume, is employed by the miserable inhabitants to rep'sent their con dition to your Grace and solicite your Grace's favour in their behalf. He is a Gentleman that has an Estate in the neighbour hood of the Town and has bin an eye witness of the miserable condition of it. The sight of which together with their im portunity has p'vailed on him to undertake this journey. They entirely depend on your Grace's mediation to procure a Brief for them here in England, or such other assistance as her Majesty shall think fitt. I find he is sensible how forward your Grace was to favour them, and I told him that I hoped there wou'd be nothing else for him to do but to acknowledge in the name of those that sent him, your Grace's goodness in so readily espousing their interest. He believes my letter may help to * " MSS. King Correspondence, penes Sir C. S. Ring, Bt." 80 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. introduce him to your Grace, which occasions the trouble of this to your Grace, which I hope your Grace will pardon. All the return your Grace must expect for this and the many good offices you have done for Ireland, are the pray™ and acknow ledgments of all concerned for its welfare, and more particularly of My Lord Your Grace's, &c. , W. DUBLIN. To His Grace the Duke of Ormond." The writer of the above letters was William King, Scholar, Trin. Coll. Dub., 1667; d.d., 1688: Provost of Tuam, 1676; Chancellor of St. Patrick's, 1679, and Dean, 1689. Having become obnoxious to K. James's party through his zeal for the Protestant faith and his opposition to the extension of the royal prerogative, he was closely confined in the Bermingham Tower, Dublin Castle, 29 July to December, 1689, and again in 1690 ; he also narrowly escaped assassination, and at this period, in the words of Lord Macaulay, ' ' no Protestant divine suffered more hardships." For his great sufferings and services in pro moting the Revolution, he was raised to the See of Derry, and consecrated 25 January, 169f . Translated to the Archbishopric of Dublin, 11 March, 170$. A Lord Justice, 1714, 1716, 1717, and 1722. Author of The State of the Protestants of Ireland, under King James's Government (i691), the learned treatise, De Origine Mali (1702), several sermons and controversial works of less note, besides an extensive correspondence on the various questions of the day with the leading men of his time. Died 1729, unmarried. Dean Swift thus winds up a long eulogy on this Archbishop's character and public actions. " This and more, if possible, is due to so excellent a person, who may be justly reckoned among the greatest and most learned prelates of this age." His father, who settled first in Co. Antrim, and in 1658, in Tyrone, was a Scot of the same stock as the Fermanagh family (p. 56), " Ipse natus Oalendis Maii, 1650, patre Jacobo, ejusdem nominis avo et proavo, familia antiqua generosa de Burras in Scotia Septentrionali " (Qucedam vita; mea insig7iiora, MS. by Abp. King), and though a rigid Presbyterian, would not engage in the Solemn League and Covenant at that time im posed in Ulster under a species of excommunication ; the future Archbishop's baptism was consequently delayed for six months, until, in the absence of his father at the war, his friends had the ordinance performed. APPENDIX III. 81 APPENDIX III. " List of Crown Tenants in Fermanagh, Rental for 1678.* A. Aldridge, Edwd. Allen, Stephen. Anckitell, Mathew. Archdale, Wm. Atkinson, Roger. Austin, John. B. Ob. Oct. 1634. Balfour, James, Lord. Baxter, Martin. Ob. 1639. Blennerhassett, Sir Leonard, ,, Francis. [Knt. ,, William. Brooke, Sir Henry, Knt. Bull, Samuel. Butler, Francis. C. Caldwell, James. Carew, Robert. One of the 1649 officers, Cathcart, Adam. ob. 1666. Champion, Arthur. „ Edward. One of the '49 officers. Cheslen, John. Claneboy, James, Lord. Cock, Francis. Cole, Sir John, Bart. ,, Sir Michael, Knt. * " I have modernized the spelling of names, and placed them in more correct alphabetical order. — C. S. King." Note by Lord Belmore. — " It does not follow that all these persons were alive in 1678. For instance, Roger Atkinson was probably dead. He had sold his grant long before to Arthur Champion, and it was now held by John Corry, in addition to another for which his own name appears ; but the names were kept on in the Rental." G 82 UPPER LOUGH erne. College, Dublin. Connyes, Edward. Copeland, Edward. Ob. 1660-L Cormuck, John. Corry, John. D. Dillon, Robert, Lord. ,, Carey. ,, Charles. Dunbar, Sir John, Knt. E. Evett, Margaret. „ Richard. F. Folliot, Thomas, Lord. Ob. 1686-8. Forster, Arthur. Francklin, Richard. G. Gore, Sir Ralph, Bart. H. Hamilton, John. ,, Malcolm. Hannington, Maria. Harrison, George. Ob. 1690. Hassard, Jason. Hastings, Ferdinando, Lord. Lucy, d. of Sir John Davis. ,, and Lucy, his wife. Archd. of Ardagh, Ob. 1632. Hatton, Edward. A son of Bp. Heygate. Heygate, John. Hume, Sir Geo., Bart. Humphrey, Thos. I. Irvine, Gerard. J. One of the '49 officers, ob. 1693. Johnston, Walter. Jones, Roger. K. Vivens 1674. King, James. APPENDIX III. 83 Ob. July, 1681. Ob. Feb., 1700. One of the '49 officers. Ob. 1692. Leonard, John. Leslie, John, Dr. of Theolog. Lowther, Henry, Assign Henry Lowther. M. Mackie, Thomas. Maguire, Lord. ,, Bryan M'Coron. Merrick, Richard. Monmouth, Jas., Duke of Montgomery, Gabriel. ,, William. Mountmorris, Francis, Lord. O. O'Neil, Art Oge. Ob. Nov. 1677. Vivens, 1634. Ob. 1638. Vivens 1621. Peirce, Ralph. Pitt, John. Potter, George. Puckridge, Richard. R. Rhynd, David. Roscommon, Jas., Earl of. Rotheram, Sir Thos. (Knt. 1) S. Slack, Robert, Clk. St. George, George. W. Walmesley, John. Waterhouse, Charles. West, Henry. Willoughby, Nicholas. Wyett, Dr. Thomas." Parliamentary Memoirs of Fermanagh and Tyrone. 1887. By the Earl op Belmore. 84 upper lough erne. The Principal British Families in Fermanagh in 1718.* The following appeared in Notes and Queries, 4 Oct., 1879:— "MS. Hist, of Fermanagh. Following a friend's suggestion, I searched the library catalogue at Thirlestane House, Chelten ham, and found the above at p. 238 (No. 13293). It is entitled History uf the County of Fermanagh, with the Antient Families ofthe Same. It is a small 4to of 165 pp., written 1718-19. The contents comprise a description of the town of Enniskillen, the islands, hills, and mountains in the county, the ancient Irish families, e.g., Maguires, MacManuses, Cassidys, &c, and the principal British families. The list of names of the heads of the latter, comprising the landed gentry of the Co. 160 years ago, will doubtless interest many readers of ' N. & Q.' : — " An Alphabetical Table of y" most Remarkable Brittish families in y" County of Fermanagh, proceeding according to y° first letter of each sirname, wherein by y° pages annexed to their names y° description may be found in y8 book at ye same page. William Archdale, Esqr. ; Marvin Archdale, Coll. ; Mr. Alex ander Acheson, Gt. ; Mr. James Aghinleck ; Mr. Robt. Aber- crumbey. Wm. Balfoure, Esqr. ; Henry Brook, Esqr. John Cole, Esqr. ; Henry Caldwell, Barrt. ; David Creichton, Esqr. ; John Corry, Esqr. ; John Creichton, Esqr. ; Guy Carle ton, Esqr. ; Malcolm Cathcart, Esqr. ; Allan Cathcart, Esqr. ; Mr. John Cochran, Gent. John Dunbair, Esqr. ; Mr. Henry Dunbair, Gent. Gilbert Ecles, Esqr. ; Joseph Ecles, Esqr. Arthur Forster, Gent. Sir Ralph Gore, Barrt. ; Mr. Willm. Graton, Clk. ; Mr. Wm. Green, Clk. ; Mr. Henry Green, Attorney. Sir Gustavus Hume, Barrt. ; Lodovick Hamilton, Gent. ; Malcolm Hamilton, Gent. ; Capt. Charles Hamilton ; Jason Hassard, Esqr. ; Robert Hassard, High Sheriff ; Thomas Hum- frey, Gent. * From Dr. Samuel Madden's MS . Hist, of Co. Fermanagh. appendix iv. 85 Christopher Irvin, Esqr. ; James Johnston, Esqr. ; Walter Johnston, Esqr. ; James Johnston, Esqr. John King, Gent. Edward Leonard, Gent. ; Anthony Luige, Gent. Hugh Montgomery, Esqr. ; Samuel Madden, Esq. ; Andrew Mitchell, Clk. ; John Means, Gent. ; Peter Madison, Gent. Arthur Noble, Majr. ; James Noble, Gent. ; Edwd. Noble, Gent. ; Thomas Nixon, Gent. David Rynd, Esqr. ; John Rynd, Esqr. ; Mr. Willm. Ross- grove, Gent. ; Mr. Thos. Rossgrove, Gent. Mr. John Smith, Clk., Esqr.; Mr. Thos. Smith, Gent. Mr. John Tratter, Gent. Hugh Willoghbey, Esqr. ; Mr. John Wisheart, Gent. ; Mr. Robt. Wier, Gent. ; Nicholas Ward, Esqr. ; John Winslow, Esqr." The majority of the above seem from their surnames to have been of Scottish origin, C. S. K." Kensington." APPENDIX IV. Knockninny Hill. " In this County (Fermanagh) are two notable hills for beauty, pleasure, profitt, and stately situation not inferior to many in Ireland the one' is called Knockninny being the principall seate of that family descended of Patrick son of Edmond na Cooley Maguire, king of ffermanagh. This hill is bordering upon Lough Earne on y" weast side about 10 miles from Iniskellin and 8 miles from ye town of Beltorbet, the waters of Lough- earne encompasseth one side of this hill ab' an English mile, being on all sides bordered and adorned w"1 fine stately groves of smale woods plenty of heasle nutts, slows and crabbs, or wild apples, and on y" faces of tKis hill groweth wheat, beaie, barley, flax or any other graine most plentiful. The meddows and pastures round this hill excellent for tillege and pleasant 1 " The second hill for beauty and profit is called Cravbh in y" east end of Tirkenedy, being part of the estate belonging to y° heirs of Cuchonaght More Maguire." 86 UPPER LOUGH ERNE. and wholesome soyle for man or beast. The height of this hill is most stately to behold being adorned with desyes and all kind of sweete smelling and wholesome herbs, very usefull for appothecaries, as also the pleasantest prospect in y* County for one may see from thence all y" stately buildings in y° Co., as also y" Boates and Cotts y' goes by water from Iniskillin to Beltorbet, being 20 miles by water, there being severall other recreations which makes this hill most famous, as at y" foot thereof may be found a salmon, a peyk, a breame, and a trout, and on y8 hill and borders a fox, a hare, a badger, and some times a deere, besides good fowleing, soe y' Nature hath fortified and honrred this place above all other hills in our Northern ptes."— MS. Hist, of Fermanagh, 1718, 1719. "Me are strangers before Gbee, ano sojourners, as all our fatbers were, ©ur oags on tbe eartb are as a sbaoow, ano tbere is no abfoing.— i Chron. xxix. 15, r.v. INDEX. Names of Families, Places, &c, not mentioned by the Author, but which appear in the Editor's notes, are printed in italics. Pagb Aldfred, King of the Northumbrians, ..... 55 Amrngh Lake, ......... 23 Arch — Marble, 52 Archdale family, . . . . ... . 57,81,84 Armour — Body, used in i68g, 34 Armstrong families, . . . . . . . 29, 30, 60, 75 Arney River, its course, . . ... 49-50, 52-53 Ashe family, 45, 78 Atcheson (Serjeant), a traitor, 34 Aughalane, or Woodford, River, its course, .... 22-25 Aughrim battle, alluded to, 27, 66 Axes, brazen, 46, 47 Balfour — Castle, 41 Balfour family, 39,41,42,44,81,84 Ballinamore Iron Works, 22 Ballyconnell, 2, 23 Ballyconnell House, 23, 24 Ballyhaise 3, 4 Ballyhaise River, its course, 2-5 Ballyhillan Bridge, . 6 Ballyshannon, 6, 61 Barry family, 5 Bawnboy, 7> 48 Bedell (Wm., D.D.), Bishop of Kilmore, . . . . 10-15 Bell family 34. 59 Bellcoe 51 88 INDEX. Page Belleek, . • . . . , . . , , . i 62 Belleisle 43-46, 61 Bellevue, 60 Belmore Mt jo Belturbet I, 7, i%.2\, 22, 28, 33, 36, 46, 85 Belturbet Castle 19-20 Bennaghlan Mt., 42 43 Bernard family, cy Berry family, 20, 76 Berwick (Duke of) 28, 29, 67, 68 Betham's (Sir Wm., Ulster) MSS., ...... 39 Bishops— On Irish, of English birth 11,12 Blayney family, 60 Blennerhassett family, 15,49,81 Bourke (Richard), ......... 65 Boyne — Battle of the, mentioned, 66 Bramhall family, 64 British families, principal, in Fermanagh in 1J1S, . . 84, 85 Brooke family 22, 47, 77, 81, 84 Browning (Capt. Wm.), 68, 74, 77 Brace Hill, 6 Bruncker (Sir Henry), ........ 60 Burgh family, 25 Burndroose, or Bundrowse, battle mentioned, . . .66, 67 Burnet (Rev. Gilbert, D.D.), n, 13, 14 Burrowes family, ......... n Butler (Lanesborough) family, .... 19-20, 37, 39, 81 Butlersbridge, ......... 4 Caldwell family 14,64,73,81,84 Camomile, .......... 66 Carleton family, 12, 31, 33, 74, 76, 77, 84 Carrigallen, or Cloncorick, . . . . . . . 16, 56 " Carry Bridge. A Rtverie." . . . . . . • 53, 54 Cathcart (Capt. Allan), 68, 74, 84 Cavan, 4, 5, 7 Cavan — Battle of, mentlored, 29, 66 Cecil-Hamilton family, ....... 6, 16-17 Charlelt (Rev. Dr.) n Chichester (Sir Arthur), . . . . . . . 71 72 Churchill family, ......... 28 INDEX. 89 Page Claddagh River 52 Clare (Dan. O'Brien), Viscount, 30, 31, 33 Clarke family, 57, 68, 74 Cleenish Island 56, 57, 58 Clements family, ........ 2, 24, 45 Clogher, .......... 47 Clogher (Bishop of), v. Ashe, Porter, Spottiswoode. Cloghouter Castle, 13, 14, 16, 18 Clones, 26, 27, 33 Clontycoora, ......... 53 Clonurson, .......... 52 Cloon, ........... 6, 22 Clover Hill, 3, 26, 39 Cole family, . . 3, 14, 47, 56, 63, 64, 71, 77, 78, 79, Si, 84 Colebrooke, .......... 22, 47 Colebrooke, or Maguire's, River, its course, .... 47-48 College, Trinity, Dublin, ....... 38, 82 Collum family, ......... 60 Comber Water, or River of Castle Saunderson, its course, . 25-27 Connaught army, 28, 29, 67 Conyngham family, . . . . . . . . 2, 7, 23, 65 Coole — Castle, 50, 78 Cooper (Capt. Geo.), 32, 75 Coote family, ......... 58 Cootehill, 2 Cornacrea Mill Battle, 67-69 Corrard, 15, 42, 56, 58 Corry family 34, 50, 75, 77, 78, 79, 82, 84 Cosby family, ......... 6, 74, 77 Cotter (Sir Jas.), 30 Cottingham family, . . . . . . . . 15, 58 Crichton family, ... 15, 29, 31, 33, 34, 35,41, 76, 77, 84 Croghan Castle, .... .... 16 „ River, its course 16 Crown Tenants in Fermanagh, 1678, . . • .81, 82, 83 Crum Castle 15, 21, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34-37 Cuilcagh Mt 42, 48, 49 Cullum, or Culme, family, 13, 14, 17 Danish Fortifications 9, 5 : Davis (Edward), 64 90 INDEX. Page Davis (Sir John), 37, 60 Daws — Cornish, 52 Deering family, ......... 58 Delany (Rev. Pat., D.D!), 44 Denny family, 59 Derry — Siege of, alluded to, 28, 34, 67, 73 Derrybrusk, 55, 58 Derryvollan, 58, 59 Devenish Island, 53 Dillon family, 13, 82 Dixie family, 12, 13, 33, 74 Dodsworth family, 60 Doows Mt., 50 Drainage suggested, 24, 61 ,, carried out, 45, 61, 62 Dreslernan, 3, 14, 58 Drumcorr, .......... 14 Drumgoon, 48 Drumreilly, .......... 22 Drung 3 Duanim, or Stragownah, River, its course, .... 48-49 Dubally Mts., 50, 52 Dunbar family, 29,49,65,71,82,84 Dunkin (Rev. Wm., D.D.) 65 Eagles 52 Eels, 61 Eccles family, 35. 84 Enery family 7, 23-25, 48 Enniskillen, . . . 1, 28, 29, 33, 37, 41, 46, 56, 57, 58, 85 „ described 62-66 „ Castle 63, 64 „ Church, 64 „ School 65 „ Sunday School instituted, 64 „ in 1611 71 „ great fire at, 63, 78-80 „ Provost and Burgesses in 1612, . . . .71,72 „ Townsmen in 163 — , 72, 73 Erne — The, its course, 19-21 Ewart, James, 68, 75 INDEX. 91 Page Families — Principal British, in Fermanagh, in 1718, . . 84,85 Farnham 4.^ 26 Fermanagh described in 1609, 37 Florence Court 14/ 63 Florencecourt Mts., 42 Fomorians — The, ........ 62 Forests — Oak, 45 Fox family, .......... 5 Galbraith family, ....... 23, 56, 57, 75 Galmoy (General, Viscount), . . 12, 26, 27, 28, 33, 36, 41 Glenawly, 42 Glin Farm, 50 Goats — Herds of, 52 Godwin (Timothy, D. D.), Bishop of Kilmore, . . . 8,12 Gola Abbey, 25, 42, 53, 54, 55, 57, 58 Gore family, . 2, 5, 22, 23, 43, 44, 45, 53, 57, 58, 75, 78, 82, 84 Gortatowell Rock 51 Gortawell Mill Rivulet, 50, 51 Gownagh — Lough, its course, 5, 6 Graham family, 29, 48, 74 Grattan (Charles), 44. 65 Gray family, 58 Greene family, 3, 14, 15, 58, 77, 84 Guilliams family, ........ 24 Hall family, 58, 64, 75 Hamill family, ......... 56 Hamilton — Castle, . . . . . . . . 16, 17, 18 Hamilton families, . 6, 16, 17, 24, 31, 57, 73, 74, 75, 76, 82, 84 Hardinge family 45 Hassard family, 56, 75, 82, 84 Hastings family, 53, 60, 82 Hawks, .......... 52 Herons 51 Hickman (Chas., D.D.), Bishop of Derry 12 Hort (Josiah), Bishop of Kilmore, .... 8,10,12,22 Hume family, 79, 82, 84 Humphrys family 3 Inniskeen Island, 43, 58, 64 92 INDEX. Page Inniskilleners— The, ... 13, 19, 24, 25, 27-36, 66-69 „ „ Address to K. William and Q. Mary, 1689, 73-75 „ „ " Creighton's Foot," 76, 77 „ „ " Tiffin's Regt.," 78 „ ,, "Wolseley's Horse," .... 76 Innismore Hall, 58 Innismore Island, 53, 54, 58 Innisrath Island, ......... 37 Iron Works, 22, 49 Irvine family 15, 35, 57, 59, 74, 76, 82, 85 fohnson (Dr. Samuel), ........ 38 Johnston family, 23, 29, 41, 56, 77, 82, 85 Jones family, .......... 60 Kays' 's (Rev. J. W., LL.D.) Poems .... 53, 54, vii Killeshandra, 7, 16, 17 Killesher, 14, 52, 53 Killinah, 50 Kilmore, . . 7, 13 Kilmore — (Bishop of), v. Bedell, Godwin, Hort, Sheridan, Wetenhall. Kilmore Deanery-House, ....... 12 Kilmore Palace, 7-10 Kinawley, .......... 49 King family, . 5, II, 12, 15, 25, 27, 42, 55-58, 61, 75, 79, 80, 82, 85 Knockninny Hill, 37, 42, 44, 46, 48, 85, 86 Leslie family 14, 23, 24, 65, 83 Linen Manufacture, . . . . . . . . . 21 Lisgoole Abbey and Castle, 59, 60, 61 Lible (Lord), .......... 30 Lismore Castle, ......... 6, 7 Lisnaskea 30, 41, 47, 48 Lloyd family, 28, 29, 31, 32, 66, 67, 74 Lowry- Corry family, ........ 50 Lucas family, ......... 2 Lundy (Col. Robert), Governor of Derry, .... 66 Lurganna Colley, or Lurgancuillagh Mts., .... 49 Macaulay (Lord), 80 MacCarmick (Capt. Wm.), 29,34,41,68,75 Macgaverins— The, 50 INDEX. 93 Page Macmanuses — The . 43, 55, 84 Macnane, or Macnean — Lough, its course, .... 50-52 Madden family, 3, 14, 38, 39, 61, 85 Mag-ill family, ......... 39, 41 Maguires— The, 28, 42, 54, 55, 60, 83, 84, 85 Maguiresbridge, 29, 48 Maguire's, or Colebrooke, River, its course, .... 47, 48 Manor Gore, ......... 22, 23, 44 Manorhamilton, ......... 50 Manor Waterhouse, 38, 39, 40, 41 Marble Arch, 52 Margetson (Jas., D.D.), Primate of Ireland, .... 64 Marsh (Francis, D.D.), Abp. of Dublin, . . . .27,28 Massey family, ......... 2 Maxwell family, ......... 5, 57, 59 Maxwell Monument, Bennaghlan, ...... 43 Molyneux family, ........ 38 Monaghan, .......... 26 Monroe and the Scots' army, ...... 14 Montgomery family, 2, 14, 15, 17, 23, 24, 25, 53, 58, 63, 75, 83, 85 Mountcashell (Gen., Viscount), .... 27, 32, 33, 34, 35 Mourne Mts 52 Munster army, 27, 28, 29-33 Nesbitt family, 6, 7 Newburgh family, 3, 15 Newtownbutler, 27, 31, 35 „ — Battle of, .... 27-34, 39. 66, 67 Newtown Gore, ......... 22, 29 Noble family, 25, 85 Nugent family, 56 O'Neils-The, 14, 54, 60, 83 O'Reillys— The 13 Ormond (Jas., Duke of), ...... 78, 79, 80 Ormsby-Gore family, ........ 22 O'Rorkes— The, 22 Oughter — Lough, its course 7-15, 16-19 Owen (Rev. John, D.D!), 10, 11 Pass — The Bloody, 25 94 INDEX. Page Phillipps family 3° Phillipps' (Sir Thos., Bart!) MSS'. 39 Porter family, 45. 6l Portora, 65 Rathbrackan Well, • 6 Rathkenny, or Rakenny, 2 Rebellion of 1641, 11,13,14,53,60 Rind Mac Morrish Point, 59 Roe family, 25 Ross family 56 Rossferry, .......... 37 Rossorry, 62 Rynd family, 59. 83, 85 Salmon, 52, 53, 61, 86 Sanderson family, ....... 3, 26, 39 Sarsfield (Patrick, Earl of Lucan), 28 Saunderson — Castle 26, 27, 33 Saunderson — Castle, River, or Comber Water, its course, . . 25-34 Saunderson family, ........ 26 Scarlet's Weir, 6i Scrabby, or Scrawby, ........ 5, 6 Shannon — Navigation of the, , 61 Shariock — Lough of, 2 Sheridan family, II, 14, 15 Sillies River, 62 Sinclair family, ......... 23 Slieve Bagh, 47 Slieve Mac Glanaghy 50 Slieve Russell 48 Sligo, 51, 66 Smith (Rev. John), 64 Smyth family 56 Sneyd family 7, 24, 25, 58 Society — Roy. Dublin, 38 Somerville family, ........ 57 Southwell family, . . . . . . . . 16, 17, 35 Spenser family, ......... ig Spottiswoode family, . . . . . . , . .3553 Story family, .... .... 24 INDEX. 95 Page Stragownah — Bridge of, 49 Stragownah, or Duanim, River, its course, . . . . 48, 49 " Sunset on Lough Erne," vii Swanlinbar, 48, 49 Swift (Dean) 44, 49, 65, 80 Synge (Edward, D.D.), Abp. of Tuam, . 3 Taylor family, 3 Tenants — Crown, in Fermanagh, 1678, . . . 81, 82, 83 Thunderbolt — Effects of a 20,21 Tiffin (Brigadier-Gen. Zechariah), .... 31, 32, 78 Tipping family, ......... 37 Topped Mt 48 Towniey-BaMour family, 41, 42 Trinity Island, 10, 13 Trout ... 49, 52, 86 Tullymargie Castle, 31 Ulster — Annals of, 43 Urney 4, 23 Waterhouse family, 38, 39, 83 Waterhouse — Manor, 38-41 Watling, or Wattle, Bridge, 32 Weir family, 31, 57, 75, 85 Wetenhall (Edward, D.D.), Bishop of Kilmore, &c, . 11,12 Wolseley family, 19, 68, 73, 76 Woodford, 22 Woodford, or Aughalane, River, its course, .... 22-25 C. W. Gibbs, Printer, 18 Wicklow Street, Dublin. ¦¦ ,,; :¦¦¦¦¦¦ ' " ¦ '" ¦ ¦¦