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In this Edition of the Handbook, Cornwall has been separated from Devon, in order to make both books more portable for the Traveller. Besides a careful revision on the spot, which this Handbook has undergone, an attempt has been made to render it more practically- useful by an improved arrangement of many of the Routes, the opening of new Railways having partly rendered this advisable. Care has been taken to facilitate the means of reference between the different Routes, and to point out the best conducted Inns to which the stranger may resort for head-quarters. The readiest access to the interesting district of the Lizard, for those coming from the E., is clearly indicated to be from the pleasant town of Falmou'th. The Handbook has been freed from a good deal of legendary lore which appeared rather trivial, thus making room for more practical matter bearing upon the Traveller's wants. Four new Maps of Tintagel, Lizard, Land's End, and Falmouth Harbour have been engraved, on a large scale, for this Edition, and it is hoped will facilitate the movements of the Pedestrian and Yachtsman, for whom they are specially designed. For all this, no doubt many errors remain behind, and the Editor hopes that all those who use this book will favour him with a notice of any mistakes or changes, sending them to him through Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. This Edition is largely indebted to such communi cations for its increased accuracy; and he takes this opportunity to offer his grateful thanks to friends, known and unknown, who have thus assisted him. Albemarle Street, Sept. 1879. CONTENT Introduction . PAOTI [9] ROUTES. : The names of places are printed in Ua'ics only in those routes where the pJaees are described. "ROUTE PAGE 21 Exeter (Lydford Junction Stat.) to Launeeston, Camel- ford, Boscastle, Tixtagel, and Debibole . . 2 22 CimelfWd to [Padstow']. Sf. Columb, 'Mairgan, Sewi/nay, Bedrnthan Step*, by Wade- bridge . . . .16 23 Plymouth to Truro, bv Suit- ash, Liskeard, [St. Neot's], Bodmin, Losticitkiel, Par, St. Auslell, G-rampound, Carclaze . . 24 23ATrurotoSt P iran, the Church in the Sand* . . 49 24 Launeeston to Bodmin and Truro [Brown Willy, Bough- tor, and Dozmare Pool] 53 25 Tavistock to Liskeard, by Gunnerslake, Cahtock [Co- thele. Morwell Kocks], and Callington ... GI 26 Truro to Falmouth, by Pen- ryn — Falmouth Barbour . 64 27 Truro to Penzance, by Red ruth, Camborne, and Hayle 70 28 Falmouth to The Lizabd, by Penryn [or Helston], Kynance Cove, Mullion Cove, Lizard Town . . 87 28a Falmouth to Penzance, by ROUTE l'AGB Helston [the Lizard], Ma- razinn, and Mount's Bay . 2Sb Helston to the Lizard — Coast path for Pedestrians 23c The Lizard— Cadge\yitb to Falmouth, by Hel ford Ferry — Coast path for Pedes trians .... 29 Penzunee to the Lizard, by St. MirhaeVs Mount 30 Penzance to Land's End, Logax Rook, and St. Rnryan 105 31 Penzance to St. Just and Bo- tallnckMine, Cape Cormcqll by San rreed 32 The Set hj Islands 33 Penzance to St. Ives, by Cas- tell-an-Dinas — Zen nor 34 Plymouth to Falmouth, by looe. Forney, Megavissij, and St. Austell. Cast road 35 Bodmin Road Station to Bodmin, Wadebridge, and Padstow 36 Fowey to Newquay, Roche Rocks (Cornwall Mineral Railway by Par and St. Blazey) 37 Callington to Stratton. Bude Haven, and Bideford, by ' Launeeston 0297 99 101 112 116123 127 134 138 142 N.B.— The Eoutes run on in continuation of (hose in the Han&o ok for Devon, by the two Counties dovetailing into each other. LIST OF MAPS. To face Route N. W. Coast of Cornwall : Tintagel, Boscastle, Camelford . . . . 21 Falmouth Harbour and Fal River from Traro to Pendennis .. ..26 The Lizard District : Falmouth and Helston to Mullion and Kynance Coves — Lizard Town 2S The Land's End District : Penzance to Logan Rock, St. Just, St. Ives, &c 30 Map of Cornwall at the end. INTRODUCTION. § 1. Travellers' General View : — Objects of In terest, AND HOW TO REACH them. — Plan op a Tour . . 2. Antiquities : — Old Stose Monuments — Churches, Crosses, &c. .. § 3. Sketch op History .. § Page [9] [18] Page § 4. Sketch op Geology .. [20] § 5. Mines and Mining in Cornwall [25] § 6. Fisheries [38] § 7. Old Cornish Language [42 ] § 8. Ddchy op Cornwall .. [44] §9. Skeleton Tours .. .. [45] § 1. Travellers' General View: — Objects of Interest, and how to reach them. The chief attraction for the Traveller in Cornwall consists in its very peculiar coast scenery, unsurpassed in any part of England, and made familiar to most of us in the grand paintings and engravings of Turner, the green-sea bays and coves of Hook, and the softer landscapes of Lee. This fine scenery is to be found chiefly in three quarters — on the N. coast from Bude to St. Columb, culminating in the slate cliffs of Tintagel and Boscastle ; at the Land's End, from the Logan Rock round to Gurnard's Head and St. Ives, where the invincible granite presents an appropriate rampart against the unbroken swell of the Atlantic ; and third, in the serpentine coves and caves of the Lizard, where that rock (rare in England) displays not " the colours of the rainbow," but a combination of the red, green, and yellow of a serpent's skin, but darkened in tone so as to approach to blackness. England, it will be observed, ends in a point both at its eastern and western extremity — -the corn, or horn, of Cornwall corresponding with the kant, or angle, of Kent; but the western peninsula stretches far further into the sea, and, from the hilly ridge which forms its back bone, the Bristol and British Channels are both visible in places from the same spot. No wonder therefore, along this storm-swept seaboard and far inland, that trees and shrubs should be scarce, and heath and moor prevail over large tracts of granite, &c. To make amends the sea- air softens the climate, and in the sunny inlets and sheltered coves of the south coast blooming gardens and sub-tropical plants flourish. The warm influence of a double current of the Gulf Stream so modifies the climate and checks early frosts in spring, that the country round [10] § 1. — Travellers' General View. Cornwall. Penzance is turned into a great kitchen-garden to furnish London with early vegetables. Another result of this is the number of beautiful gardens in Cornwall displaving sub- tropical plants, which stand out the winter in the open pir. Such are Carclew, near Penryn ; Pengerrick, near Falmouth ; Tregothnan, Porthgweddon, by Truro ; Helegan, Pentilly, near Saltash ; Menabilly, near Fowey ; Pencarrow ; and Trescow, one of the Scilly Isles — all these may be reckoned among the most pleasing sights for travellers in the West of England. Modes of Access. — Even the remote corners of Cornwall can now be nearly reached by the ramifications of the Great Western and South western Railways, which carry you within 10 m. of the Land's End, at Penzance; within 18 m. of the Liza'd, at Falmouth; and within 25 m. of Tintagel, at Launeeston. Cornwall may be conveniently entered either from Plymouth (6% hours from London), or from Tavistock ; while from North Devon, Lynton, Ilfracombe, or Barn staple there is a good road to Bude Haven and Camelford ; and another railway has been carried from Exeter by Lydford to Launeeston, on the way to Boscastle and Tintagel. Plan of a Tour through Cornwall — including List of the most remarkable Objects and of the most Convenient and Comfortable Resting-places and Inns. From Plymouth ascend River Tamar to Saltash — Cothele — Morwell Hocks {Inns : Tamar Hotel and Ashburton Hotel, near Calstock). St. German's — Church — Port Elliot. St. Austell — Carclaze Mine — China Clay Works — Tin Stream Work. Liskeard (Webb's Hotel) — Restormel Castle — St. Nents Church and painted glass. Truro — Cathedral — Museum — Descent of Pal Iliver. Falmouth (Falmouth Hotel) — Pendennis Castle — Pengerrick Gardens — by Penryn to Carclew — Falmouth Harbour — St. Antony. The Lizard, by Gweek — Mullion Cove — Kynance Cove — Lizard Town (homely Inns) — Lighthouses — Cliff scenery — Cadge- with. St. Michael's Mount. Penzance {Inns : Queen's ; Mount's Bay Hotel)— Land's End and Logan Rock — St. Just — -Botallack Mine. Scilly Islands (Hugh House Hotel) — Trescow. Penzance. St. Ives (Inn : Tregenna Castle). Grampound Road Station — Probus ? St. Columb Major (Inn: Red Lion)— Mawgan — Bedruthan Steps. Wade Bridge — Padstow (Rock Ferry Hotel). Introd. § 1.— Travellers General View. [11] Camelford (King's Arms). Tintagel — Boscastle (Wellington Inn). Camelford — Launeeston — Castle. Tavistock or Exeter. By this course the journey terminates with the crowning grandeur and stupendous cliff scenery of Tintagel and Boscastle. Parts of the Cornish coast are unrivalled by any similar scenes in England. These are the slate cliffs between Boscastle and Tin tagel, the serpentine rocks of the Lizard, and the magnificent barrier of granite precipices extending between the Logan Rock and Land's End. The huge frame of this astonishing rampart, and the hard ness of its material, might be regarded as a special provision against the stormy seas which, by means of the prevailing winds, are particu larly directed upon this part of the coast. The caverns in some of these cliffs of serpentine and granite should be explored. In the former rock they are remarkable for their varied and beautiful colouring ; in the latter, for their cylindrical shapes, and the extreme smoothness and polish of their walls, the surfaces of which are sometimes without a single fracture. Every part of the coast is indented by secluded and romantic coves, provincially called porths, which, on the N. coast, are fringed by beaches of shelly sand, extensively used throughout the county as a top-dressing to the land. During the autumn some of these coves present, at low-water, very animated scenes, when a number of donkeys are busily employed in carrying bags of this sand to the summit of the cliffs. The bands of strata along that portion of the coast which lies between Boscastle and the mouths of the Taw and Torridge are so narrow and distinctly marked as to give a ribboned appearance to the cliffs, and are heaved and contorted in a manner which defies all description. They are also so loosely bound together as to yield readily to the assaults of the sea. Here, therefore, the coast presents a ruinous appearance, and huge fragments cumber the shore, bearii g a resemblance to enormous walls, or to the carcasses of ships which have been stranded and con verted into stone. Five of the Cornish headlands may be particularised as pre-eminent for grandeur, viz. :— Tintagel, the Gurnard's Head, Pardenick, Tol Pedn Penwith, and Treryn Castle, the sile of the Logan Rock. " The heavy and perpetual wash of the sea is one of the character istics of the N. side of the county. On the S. it is only when the wind blows half a gale, almost too strong to be walked against, that you see the mighty surges come tumbling in in their power and magnificence, and without which no visit to the sea-side seems com plete. But here on the N., owing to a continual ground-swell, a succession of huge breakers is always rolling in on the rugged shore with a voice of thunder. Even on days when no air is stirring, the long, dark swells present an imposing spectacle. A gentle breeze [12] § 1. — Travellers' General View. Cornwall. increases the effect ; and under a brisk wind, the sight of the waves urging one another onwards to the beach, becomes impressive beyond description. It is this ceaseless commotion that renders the few harbours on the Bristol Channel so difficult of access. And the water, never at rest, iias fretted the cliffs, already stupendous, into forms savagely sublime. Starting from Ilfracombe, a whole month might be devoted to this north coast with rich reward to the wanderer." — White's Walk to the Land's End. If Mines and Mining, the special trade of Cornwall, have attraction for the traveller, he can gratify his curiosity by descending one of the deep mines near Redruth, but he should not fail to visit also that singularly situated Botallack Mine, which sends its galleries under the waves of the Atlantic. It may be visited from Penzance or the Land's End. Carclaze Mine, near St. Austell, a wonderful excavation or open quarry worked in the gravel for tin for centuries, and now for china clay used for porcelain, in paper-making and bleaching, is an interesting focus of industry, and will repay a visit. Caution to Pedestrians. — Considerable danger attends a walking tour in the mining district of Cornwall, from the unprotected pits of aban doned mines, too often left open as pit-falls, in the way of unsuspecting travellers, and either unguarded or insufficiently fenced round. Most dangerous of all are those shafts which are covered with a sollan, a platform of wood thrown across a shaft a little below its mouth, and then covered up with earth. In a short time the wooded support is apt to rot, and gives way uniler the feet of the pedestrian. In rambling over Cornwall the traveller may be frequently puzzled by provincial expressions. Thus, for instance, he may ask of a countryman the nearest road to St. Just, and be told to his surprise that he is now in St. Just, although the moor bounds his view on every side. But St. Just means, in Cornwall, the parish of that name : the town is distin guished as the church-town ; and so is the smallest village which contains a church. Again, a direction to proceed to such a farmhouse, and then turn to the right through the town-place, will be as Hebrew to one uninitiated in the lingo of the West ; but the stranger will soon learn that the town-place of a farmhouse is the open space, or farm yard, in front of it. In thus wandering through the county the foot- weary pedestrian will greet with a benediction the stile which admits him to the churchyard, or liuks the field path he may be pursuing. Unlike the harassing obstruction in other parts of England, it consists of bars of granite arranged like a gridiron across a'pit dug in the ground, and thus, offering no impediment to a man, though lame or feeble, but an effectual barrier to cattle or other animals confined in the fields, might be advantageously adopted by farmers throughout the kingdom. The following objects are also calculated to strike the attention by their novelty, viz. :— porphyry and granite houses, stone hedges, as they are called, though really stone walls, so broad that footpaths run Introil. § l._ Travellers' General View. [13] alonix their tops ; teetotal inns, and the arishmoius in which the corn is so heaped in the field as to be proof against rain. The untidy look of the outside of the cottages and villages is common to both the " Principality " (Wales), and the " Duchy ;"" but although the outward appearance suggests Ireland, the inside may boast of a cleanliness and tidiness unsurpassed in England. The love of excite ment,, and of preaching, or any sort of oratory, and an utter absence of method in work or business, proclaim the Welsh "Cynny" and the " Cerniwaith " of Cornwall to be of the same blood and race. Character of the People. — Both Devon and Cornwall are pleasant counties to travel in, for the hospitality of the West is proverbial, and the people are obliging and courteous to strangers. No pedestrian has ever wandered over their moors, or explored with curious eye the busy scenes of their labour, without having experienced the truth of this observation. They are a broad-shouldered race, above the average in stature, although individuals may fall below the mark — for instance, Jack the Giant-killer, that " pixy " of a man, was a Cornishman. But it is a fact that West Country regiments, when drawn up on parade with those of other counties, have covered a greater space of ground, the numbers being equal. Their courage has been often displayed. Lord Exmouth, when Captain Pellew, fought and won one of the most brilliant of single-ship actions with *, crew of Cornish miners. At an earlier period it shone forth as conspicuously. In the Great Eebellion the mainstay of the throne was found in the West, where the Cornish generals were called "the wheels of Charles's wain." Indeed the loyalty that was then manifested has its witness in the famous letter of thanks addressed to the Cornish men, of which copies are still preserved in some of the churches (see History'). Wrestling and Hurliua. — The old Cornish games are gradually losing their hold, and are dying out in the country. The wrestling matches, which formerly were well attended and patronized by the local gentry, are now, with few exceptions, got up by the publicans as means of selling liquor ; and in place of the gold-laced hat which used to be the champion's prize, the rewards are given in money — often living rise to a suspicion of foul play, or of a man " selling his back ; " i. e. allowing himself to be thrown by his adversary for the sake of a division of the prize. Cornish wrestling had not the savage character that prevailed among the Devonshire " kicksbins," as they are called. The shoes of the Cornish players were taken off before beginning the match, and then kicks and trips are nearly, if not entirely harmless. At the Bed Lion Hotel, in St. Columb, is a large silver punchbowl, given to the land lord, the famous wrestler, Polkinhorne, by the gentlemen of the county, after his great match with the Devon Champion, Abraham Cann. The ancient game of hurling is now confined to the two parishes of St. Columb, Major and Minor, though attempts have been made to revive it in some other places. The game is a sort of extended football [14] § 2. — Antiquities. Cornwall. — the goals being the church towers of the contending parishes. The ball is thrown by hand instead of being kicked. The players, to the number of 2'J, on each side, are posted by the leader in various spots and hiding-places to seize the runner with the ball. No blow may be struck ; but many a good-humoured struggle ensues for its possession. The prize is a silver ball, held by the winning parish until it is again played for. The climate of Devonshire and Cornwall varies much in different localities ; the sheltered recesses on the southern coast enjoying a mild and equable temperature, where the sun has rarely sufficient play to ripen the grape, and snow and ice are almost unknown, and where the myrtle, geranium, fuchsia, hydrangea, and other exotics grow in the open air ; while the bare hills and elevated moors, which constitute a great portion of Cornwall, are characterised by bleakness. Atlantic storms sweep unchecked over this wild expanse, and the few trees which grow in exposed situations are dwarfish in stature, and bent nearly into a horizontal posi tion. The extreme fury of these gales would scarcely be credited by a stranger, but on a visit to Cornwall he will observe that even the tombstones in the churchyards are supported by masonry as a protection against the wind. " The gale from the west," says Pol- whele, " is here no gentle zephyr ; instead of wafting perfume on its wings, it often brings devastation." The salt of the sea is borne across the country by the tempest, and this also has a pernicious effect upon vegetation, and after a gale of any continuance the withered appearance of the trees is very striking. Rain is of frequent occurrence, a fact which is conveyed in a popular Cornish adage, that the supply for the county is a shower on every week-day and two on a Sunday. It is, however, rarely heavy or lasting, and the days are few indeed on which the sky is not relieved by a sunbeam. § 2.— ANTIQUITIES. Old Stone Monuments and Churches. Cornwall is especially rich in Primitive Stone Monuments, and it is remarkable that these rude constructions of an early race of inhabitants should thus occur, just as they do in Brittany, spread over barren wastes, far away from habitable and cultivable tracts, in an angle of the land, seemingly the last stronghold of a race driven to bay at the extreme corner of their country. By what race they were erected is unknown ; they lived before the days of letters, and left no inscrip tions, or even marks, to identify the works of their bands. The objects of antiquity now remaining, to which the attention of intelb>ent travellers may fairly be called, are — a. Cromlechs or Dolmans, large flat or table stones laid horizontally upon three, four, or more supporting stones, in Cornwall called Quoits. Introd. § 2.— Antiquities— Stone Monuments. [15] Fergusson has observed there are more dolmans in the district west of Falmouth and north of Penzance than in all England beside. The best specimens are Trevethy Stone, with capstone lfi feet long, and Zennor Quoit, the finest in Cornwall; Pendarves (or Carwinnen) Chun, and Lanyon Quoit (Rtes. 27, 30, 33). b. Stone Circles, or Avenues of upright stones, resembling, but on a small scale, those of Stonehenge and Carnac, are numerous. Such are the Hurlers, near Liskeard; the Boskednan Circle (Ete. 30); the Nine Maidens of Boskawen Un ; and the Dawns Maen, or Merry Maidens. Of holed or perforated stones there is one example, the Crick Sterne at Lanyon, through the orifice of which sick children or other invalids used to be dragged, with a superstitious expectation of curing their maladies in consequence. c. Logans, or Backing Stones, large rude blocks, of great weight, so poised in equilibrium that they will logg or shake when an impulse is given to them in a certain direction, and supposed to have been em ployed by the priests as an ordeal. They were at one time more numerous than at present, but many have been thrown down. The only one now in Cornwall is the Logan Stone, situated on a projecting granite promontory, high above the sea, in one of the grandest scenes in Cornwall (see Ete. 30). d. Cliff or Hill Castles occur on commanding eminences inland, and on rocky headlands near the sea, which at the neck or point of junction are cut off from the land by these forts or ramparts of loose stones drawn across. One of the most perfect and remarkable of these, Treryn Dinas, near the Land's End, encloses the Logan Stone. Other similar works are Castell-an-Dinas and Chun Castle, near Penzance. It may be allowed, perhaps, to regard these mysterious fastnesses, sometimes protected by two or more lines of ruder walls, not only as fortresses, but as sacred enclosures in which superstitious rites of Initiation were administered, in times before history commences. AVith these may be classed earthwork-camps and walls. e. Circular Stone Huts and Walled Villages, now for the most part reduced to levelled walls, occur in various parts of Cornwall, and seem to have been the habitations of its aborigines, or of settlers landed from the sea. The Cornish Churches are by no means rich in architectural details, but they present some peculiar features; and the " Oratories'' or small churches of the earliest period, are of course of very high interest. Cornwall was first Christianized by Irish and Welsh missionaries during the 5th, 6th, and 7th centuries. These missionaries generally built for themselves a cell, with a small oratory or church attached, in which the inhabitant of the cell was usually buried. Such oratories correspond exactly with the " Dhamliags " or churches still found in Ireland, and there universally attributed to the holy men of this period (5th to 7th centuries). (See Petrie's ' Essay on the Eound Towers,' for many illustrations.) "In character they may be briefly described from the oratory of St. Piran (see Ete. 23a), once the most [16] § 2. — Antiquities— Churches. Cornwall. perfect of them all ;" but now much injured by the pillage of mis chievous visitors. " In plan they are a simple parallelogram (the breadth being about half of the length), ranging from 20 to 35 feet in length, and frorn 10 to 17 in breadth. "About one-third of the length, the eastern portion, is separated by a low stone step ; this is the boundary of the chancel. Within this is a stone altar ; and I have invariably found a stone bench running along the base of the wall on the inside, and the floor sunk two or three steps lower than the ground without the edifice. There is always a door on the south side, and a little loophole about 1 foot 6 inches by 1 foot in breadth, and sometimes a doorway also at the N.E. angle. In Ireland there is generally a round tower at this angle, communicating with the interior of the church. As to height, I can only adduce the height of St. Piran's (the other ruins are scarcely more than 6 or 8 feet high at the present time). St. Piran's was 19 or 20 feet to apex of the gable, the side walls about 13i feet ; the church being 25 feet in length internally. There is always a well beside these structures in Cornwall, as in Ireland and in Wales also." (Rev. W. Haslam, ' Trans, of Exeter Dioc. Archit. Soc.,' vol. ii.) Besides the oratory of *St. Piran (Ete. 23a), others, in a more or less ruined condition, exist at St. Enodoc, near Padstow (Ete. 22 ; this is, however, buried in the sand) ; at *St. Gfwithian, near Hayle (Ete. 27); and at *St. Madron (called the Baptistery, Ete. 27). Of the Norman period, the most important relics in Cornwall are, "St. Germans (west front and part of nave, Ete. 23), Blisland (Ete. 21), *Kilkhampton (Ete. 25), *Morwenstow (Rte. 25), *Tintagel (some portions may be Saxon, Ete. 22), Mylor, near Falmouth (Rte. 26), Leant (Rte, 27), * Manaccan (S. doorway, Ete. 28). In many Cornish churches the font is the only Norman relic which remains. In some instances it is very doubtful whether the apparent Norman work is not in reality an imitation, of a much later period. Early English. — The most perfect E. Eng. church in Cornwall is *St. Anthony in Roseland (Rte. 26). Portions of the following churches are also of this date. * Blisland (chancel, Rte. 21), *Camelford (chan cel and tower, Rte. 22), * Advent (Rte. 22), Bottreaux (Rte. 22), Min ster and Lesnewth (both Rte. 22), * Manaccan (Rte. 28c). Of the Decorated period, the most important remains are at *Pad- stow (late Dec, restored, Rte. 22), * St. Columb Major (mainly early Dec, and very good, lite. 22), *Sheviock (very good, restored, Rte. 23), * Lostwithiel (tower and spire early Dec, and unique, Rte. 23), St. Austell (chancel, Rte. 23), Lanteglos (Rte. 24), *St. lue's, near Lis keard (Ete. 25), Quethiock (Ete. 25), *St. Cury (with curious hagio scope, Ete. 28). St. Hilary (tower) (Ete. 29, Exc. 1). As in Devonshire, the great era of churchbuilding in Cornwall was the 15th century. The chief Perpendicular churches are *Launceston (very rich, Rte. 21), *Bodmin(&ne tower, Ete. 23), Withiel (Rte. 21), at. Wenn (Rte. 21), * Truro (Rte. 23), St. Teath (Rte. 22), *St. New Introd. §.]2. — Antiquities — Grosses. [17] (Ete. 22), *Egloshayle (Ete. 22), *St. Mawgan (Ete. 22), Antony (Ete. 23), *St. Neot (with remarkable glass, Ete. 23), *St. Austell (nave and tower, much enriched, Rte. 23), *Probus (tower fine, Ete. 23), Fowey (Ete. 24), Botus Fleming (Ete. 25), *Callington (Ete. 25), *Linkin- horne (Rte. 25), Stratton (Ete. 25), Launcells (Ete. 25), St. Keverne (Ete. 28), St. Just, in Penwith (Ete. 29, Exc. 4), St. Levan (Ete. 29, Exc. 5), *St. Buryan, Paul (Rte. 29, Exc. i m. 7. New Quay. The Gannel. St Peran's Round. Inland to Peranzahuloe. Along sands to Perran Porth. Leave the coast for Truro. S.A.B. [48] § 9.— Skeleton Tours. Cornwall. SKELETON ROUTE TO THE LAND'S END & LIZARD, &c, COAST ROAD, STARTING FROM ST. IVES. **St. Ives (Hotel Tregenna Castle) — Zennor Quoit. (Coast Scenery.) Gurnard's Head. Morvah. Pendeen. Botallack Mine. St. Just. *Sennen and Land's End. (Small Inn.) Treen — Logan Rocks and Rocking Stone. , Bury an. **Penzance. (Hotels.) Marazion Stat. — Michael's Mount. Helston. MullioD Cove. Kynance Cove. Lizard Town and Lighthouse. (Homely Inns.) Cadgewith.**Falmouth. (Falmouth Hotel.) HANDBOOK CORNWALL. ROUTES. %* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. 21 Exeter (Lydford Junct. Stat.) to Launeeston, Camel ford, Boscaitle, Tintagel, and Delabole 22 Camelford to [Padstow], St. Columb, Mawgan, Newquay, Bedruthan Steps, by Wade- bridge .... 23 Plymouth to Truro, by Salt ash, Liskeard, [St. JSeot's], Bodmin, Lostwithiel, Par, St. Austell, Grampound, Carclaze . . • . 23ATruro to St. Piran, the Church in the Sands. 24 Launeeston to Bodmin and Truro [Brown Willy, Bough- tor, and Dozmare Pool] 25 Tavistock to Liskeard, by, tGunnerslake, Calstock [Cothele, Morweli Rocks], ; and Callington . 26 Truro to Falmouth, by Penryn — Falmouth Harbour . 27 2S Truro to Penzance, by Bed- ruth, Camborne, and Hayle . Falmouth to The Lizard, by Penryn [or Helston], Kynance Cove, Mullion Cove, Lizard Town . ROUTE 28a Falmouth to Penzance, by Helston [The Lizard], Ma- razion, and Mount's Bay . 28b Helston to the Lizard — Coast path for Pedestrians 28c The Lizard — Cadgewith to Falmouth by Helford Ferry 16 — Coast path for Pedestrians 29 Penzance to the Lizard, by St. Micltael's Mount . 30 Penzance to Land's End, Logan Bock, and St. Burian 24 31 Penzance to St. Just and Bo- tallack Mine, Cape Cornwall, 49 by Sancreed 32 The Scilly Islands 33 Penzance to St. Ives by Cas- 53 tellan-Binas — Zennor 34 Plymouth to Falmouth, by Looe, Fowey, Meoagissy, and St. Austell. Coast Road . 61 35 Bodmin Road Station to Bodmin, Wadebridge, and Padstow .... 64 36 Fowey to Newquay, Roche Rocks (Cornwall Mineral 70 Railway by Par and tit. Blazey) .... 37 Callington to Stratton and Bude Haven and Bideford, 87 by Launeeston^ 92 97 99 101105 112116 123 127 134 138 142 * jj.B. The Routes run on in continuation of those in the Handbook for Devon, by the two Counties dovetailing into each other. [Cornwall-] B Boute 21. — Exeter to Launeeston. ROUTE 21.' EXETEH TO LAUNCESTON, CAMELFOBD, BOSCASTLE, TINTASEL, BY LYDFOED JUNCT. STAT. By rail, Loud, and S. Western, from Exeter passing Yeoford Junct. aud Okehampton Stats. 8 trains daily to Launeeston in 4 hours. Thence coach or car. See Handbook for Devon for this rly. as far as Lidford or Lydford Junct. Stat, situated on Dartmoor (Inns : Lidford Inn, Manor Hotel). Near it is a waterfall and a picturesque brhlge. After crossing the little river Lyd, our liue diverges rt., out of that to Tavistock. Coryton Stat. Near the Stat, is Sydenham (J. H. Tremayne, Esq.), an interesting Elizabethan mansion on the banks of the Lyd, built by Sir Thos. Wise, well preserved ; fur nished iu the original style, with fine staircase, family portraits. Lifton Stat. Launeeston Stat. (Inns: White Hart. The fine Norm, doorway to this house was brought from the Priory : — King's Arms. Pop., including St. Thomas's aud St. Stephen's, 4489). Launeeston is situated in a fertile dis trict, and about 2 m. from the rt. bank of the Tamar. It is picturesque in aspect, lying under its commanding castle, rising on a rock which must have been a stronghold from the earliest times of history. Before the Norman Conquest it was held by the great English earls, Godwin and Harold, the latter of whom is re corded as its possessor "on the day when K. Edward was alive and dead" (Domesday). After the Con quest it was granted, with the greater part of the shire, to Robert of Mor- tain. It has long been attached to the Duchy of Cornwall, and gives to the P. of Wales the title of Vis count. The name is said to come from Lan-stephan-ton, from the mother church of the town, now a mile distant, being dedicated to that Saint, In the Domesday it is called Dunheved, — a purely English name, signifying " hill-head," or the "top of the hill." The objects of curiosity are the castle, the ch., and some trifling remains of the town walls, e.g., the S. gate. In the neighbourhood : Werrington Park, Endsleigh, and Treearrel, once the seat of an an cient and now extiuct Cornish family of the same name. The Castle embraces an area of nearly 500 ft. square, with a very ancient mound or motte in the S.E. corner surmounted by the Keep Tower. It is entered by the W. Gate-house, a handsome structure of 2 stories, of the age of Hen. VIII., with broad, drop arch, and sides grooved for a portcullis. Passing through this, the key of the keep, and admission to the Gardens, laid out by the D. of Northumberland, may be obtained. The outer bail, now denuded of all its buildings, serves as a cricket- ground ; but in former times was the place of public executions. Here, in the reign of Q. Mary, heretics were burned at the stake, and in more recent times old women called witches. The height of Dunheved gradually declines and narrows towards the N. ; and near its point, but still high above the river Kensey, or Atterey, a natural knoll of trap-rock has been scarped down, and terraced. Upon the summit, considerably more than 100 ft. above the river, stands the circular telescope keep tower, 18 ft. diameter inside, the walls of which are about 12 ft. thick. Around this, Boute 21. — Launeeston : the Castle. leaving a passage perhaps 10 ft. broad, forming the " chemin de ronde," is a concentric wall, placed like a coro nal upon the cap of the hill. Around and outside it is a narrow walk, pos sibly once defended by a parapet. All this part of the castle is very late Norman. The inner tower had a ground-floor and two stories. The door is on the N. side, and is the only opening of any kind into the lower chamber, which probably was for stores. On the 1. of the entrance passage a stair formed in the thickness of the wall led to the first floor, and in its way winds half round the circle. It is dark, having no windows. The first floor was just clear of the outer wall, and had 2 windows, on opposite sides. The stair enters at the side of one of these, and passing through the opposite side ascends, also in the wall, to the second floor. The first floor, on which was the principal apart ment, has a chimney-piece and hearth on the N. side. The roofs of all the stories were of wood. Much of the wall at this elevation is destroyed, but it is evident that the stair ran on to the upper story, and thence to the battlements, now wanting. The walls gather in, dome-like, with the 2ud- floor roof. This tower is very plain, but its entrance arch (the present one is on the ancient pattern), and pas sage, and stair have all pointed (Trans.-Norm.) arches. The fire place is mutilated, but its side joints and corbels are decidedly Norman. The annular wall has a S. en trance, therefore not opposite to that within. On the 1. from the entrance a passage in the wall leads to the battlements. Towards the N.E. there has been a " Garderobe " in the wall, with a sewer and loophole. The top of this annular wall is on a level with the first floor of the tower, and the joist-holes round the exterior of the latter show the space between to have been roofed with timber. The base of this wall, outside, batters, and at the top of the slope is a bold well-cut cordon of stone. The tower is rent by a slight fissure, and tilted up towards the W. side. The annular wall is rent, but not tilted. All the work is rudely built of slate, with very little ashlar re maining. These 2 buildings crown the knoll, and, from the outer entrance, stairs descend the steep to a Gate- Tower at the base of the mound. These stairs and a part of the wall are modern, but it is evident that there was always a stair here covered by a wall on each side, roofed with timber, and on the E. side no doubt battlemented. The gate-tower is Trans.-Norm. The E. gate-tower is interesting, as the prison in which George Fox the Quaker was shut up (1656) for dis turbing the public peace by distribut ing tracts at St. Ives. The cell is still shown. The rest of the space is occupied by the courts (ballia) of the castle, the area of which is considerable, and long contained the County Courts. The mound occupies the N.E. corner. A wall skirting the mound, a little above its base, appears to have en circled the whole. It may be seen ex tending along the S.E. face. Thence it swept to the W., and included the S. Gatehouse, temp. Hen. VIII., still standing, and outside is the same cordon seen in the keep; a draw bridge led across the ditch from this gate. The arches in a part of the bridge, now walled up, may still be seen. On the N. and W. sides the castle defence is a deep natural valley ; on the S. and E. the valley has been deepened, and still, though built upon, hears the name of Castle- Ditch. The Deer Park, still so called, extended S.W. from the Castle gate. This gate is late Perp., but it is evident that the whole of the rest of the building — gate, tower, annular wall, and circular keep, are by one hand, and of one time. It is very B 2 Boute 21. — Launeeston Church, possible that it may have been em ployed by the Celts or Saxons for a post of defence. At present nothing is visible that can be regarded even as Early Norman. Launeeston Castle or " Dunheved " was one of the chief manors granted by the Conqueror to his half-brother, Robert of Mortain, who was created Earl of Cornwall, aud appears in Domesday as lord of the greater part of the county. He is said to have built a castle here ; but it is at least improbable that any part of the existing structure is of his time. Castle and manor passed with the earldom, and were at last merged in the Duchy of Cornwall. Leland mentions the keep as " the strongest, though not the biggest, that ever I saw in any ancient worke in Eng- lande." In 1645 it was fortified by Charles I. by Sir Richard Gren ville, and in March of the follow ing year the garrison surrendered to the parliamentary troops under Fairfax. This was the closing scene in the military annals of the castle. The, Dukes of Northumberland, High Constables of Launeeston under the Duchy, have expended a considerable sum in judicious repairs, which are calculated to prevent for some time any further decay. The precinct has been tastefully laid out as a public pleasure-ground. The Church of St. Mary Magdalen is alate Perp. building ( restored), chiefly constructed of granite, and was erected in 1524 by Sir Henry Tre- carrel, of Trecarrel ; the story being that Sir Henry, instead of finishing his house, used the stone which had been cut for that purpose in building this church. The exterior, especially the S. porch and adjacent walls, is curiously ornamented, and the panels are filled with armorial bearings, flowers, and other emblems. Amongst other carving, occur St. Martin part ing his cloak, and shields with the Trecarrel arms. A number of shields encircle the edifice, embossed with letters, which together (beginning at the priests' door with " Ave Maria ") form sentences in honour of the Blessed Virgin and St. Mary Magda lene. There is a recumbent figure of her in a canopied niche at the E. end. The tower, which stands apart, hut is connected with the ch. by a large vestry-room, is of earlier date, aud built of a different material. There is a Norm. font. In the ch. are modern stained-glass windows. The chancel contains the monumental tomb of Sir Hugh Piper, " the famous loyalist of the West," temp. Charles I., and his Dame Sibylla, " very livelily represented in marble," the one in armour, and the other in brocade. Sir Hugh had been Lt. -Governor of the citadel and island (St. Nicholas) at Plymouth, and constable of Laun eeston Castle. The wooden pulpitis polygonal and curious. Several fragments of the Priory, founded for Augustinian canons in the reign of Hen. I. by William Warelwast, bishop of Exeter, are in corporated with the houses now occu pying its site. Scanty remains of the town walls may be seen in Launeeston. The only gateway now standing is that on the S.E., which is of Decorated date, and forms the entrance from Devonshire. St. Stephen's, 1 m. N. is a fine granite ch., with a Per pendicular tower and in part Early Eng. nave. At Launeeston, in 1643, when the fortunes of Charles were at a very low ebb, the tide of a sudden turned and drove the Roundheads out of Cornwall. Sir Ralph Hopton and Sir Beville Grenville were shut into the county by Sir Alexander Carew and Sir 11. Buller, who lay at this town to prevent their escape. The Parliamentary commanders, to be guile their inactivity, instituted legal proceedings against " divers persons Boute 21. — Launeeston: Excursions. unknown, who had lately come into Cornwall, armed contra pacem." Upon this Hopton appeared, and, producing the commission of the king to the Marquis of Hertford, appointing him general of the West, and his own commission from the marquis, ob tained a verdict of acquittal, and was thanked by the jury. Hopton then, in turn, preferred an indictment against Buller and Carew. The jury found them guilty, and an order was granted to raise the posse comitatus, " for the dispersing that unlawful as sembly, and for the apprehension of the rioters." A force of 3000 well- armed foot was speedily in motion ; Buller and Carew were driven from Launeeston, and the Royalists found themselves masters of Cornwall. A rly. is authorised from Laun eeston by Camelford to Bodmin ; but there is little prospect of its com pletion. Excursions. (a) Werrin/fion, formerly belonging to the Duke of Northumberland, now to — Deakin, Esq., 2 m. N. The large park of Werrington, overgrown with fern and well stocked with deer, is picturesque. (h) Endsleigh, the cottage of the Duke of Bedford, is situated on the Tamar, 9 m. S. Tickets of admis sion to Endsleigh {Devon, Rte. 14) may be obtained at the White Hart. (c) Trebartha Hall, the seat of Francis Rodd, Esq., is in the parish of Northill, about 7 m. towards Lis keard, under the rocky escarpment of the moors. S.W. of the house a tri butary of the river Lynher falls in a cascade, where the botanist may find Bymenophyllum Tunbridgense. (d) Trecarrel stands at the head of a valley descending to the Inny river (a tributary of the Tamar), about 6 m. S. of Launeeston, and 1J m. W. of the church-town of Lezant. The old mansion was built about 1540, by Sir Henry, the last of the Trecarrels, and in the Rebellion was honoured by a visit from Charles I., who slept in it on his road into Cornwall. The hall and a small chapel of granite are in excellent preservation. The hall has a fine cradle roof; and in the wall over the dais a square opening from the lord's chamber. The Chapel, detached from the house, standing in the centre of the quadrangle, has the walls and roof perfect. At the E. end the altar platform remains ; with piscina and pillar bracket for an image. This part of the building is the whole height ; the W. part is in two stories, with fireplace and garde- robe in the upper room. All is late Perp., though some portions appear earlier than Sir Henry's time, to whom the building of the house is usually assigned. He may have completed a portion, and have left unfinished the rooms beyond the da'ised end of the hall, using the stone for St. Mary's Ch. The hall is now used as a cider-cellar ; the house is a farmhouse ; and, alas ! the little chapel a hen-roost. From Lezant you should proceed 1 m. further along the high-road to Callington, to the Sportsman's Arms, a con venient house of entertainment. A lane leads direct from it to the Carth- amatha Rocks, on the Tamar (3 m.), one of the finest points of view in the county (see Rte. 14, Exc. from Tavi stock). Coach daily in 5 brs. by Camelford and Wade Bridge, to St. Columb and Padstow, corresponding with trains to Exeter and London. See Rte. 22, Launeeston to 'Tintagel, 25 m. A wild and dreary road, skirting Laneast and Wilsey Downs, hills tra versed by the junction-line of the carbonaceous and Devonian forma tions, leads to 12 m. Davidstow (pronounced Dew- Boute 21. — Camelford : Excursions. stow), a poor village, in one of the bleakest districts of Cornwall, but with an interesting Church, Dec. and Perp. and ded. after a rebuilding in 1294. There are some good seat- ends, fragments of carving and stained glass, and an octagonal font. Trout may be caught m the limy. The sterile expanse of Davidstow Moor stretches S. to Roughtor and Brown Willy, the 2 Cornish mountains, About 3 m. N., on Wilsey Down, is Warbstow Barrow, an ancient for tification — an irregular double val lum— of considerable size. A long mound in the centre of it is called by the country people King Arthur's Grace. 3 J m. Camelford {Inn:* King's Arms) (Pop. 1620) situated on a slope in a hilly part of the county, on the skirt of the moors, and on the Camel {i.e. winding stream"), which, rising in the parish of David- stow, unites with the Alan at the Devil's Jump, and thence flows by Wadebridge and Padstow to the sea. The figure of a camel crowns the town-hall, as a weathercock, placed there by the corporation, in allusion to the name of the river, which abounds in peal and trout. The parish Church (restored), called Lanteglos — ¦ i.e. the " Church enclo sure" — is lJm.W. It is ded. to St. Julitta, and contains E. E. (chancel), Deo, and Perp. (nave) portions. The Perp. E. windows of chancel and S. aisle are good. The heraldic bosses on the roofs of both should be noticed. The arms of Coryton, Tre- lawny, and Trecarrel are conspicuous on that of the S. aisle. The fine octangular font is E. E. (A Norm. font, along with some fragments of old crosses, are preserved at the Vicarage.) The W. tower is E. E. [The Clmrch of Advent, 2 m. E. (ded. to St. Adwen, locally St. Tane), con tains E. E. portions, and is interesting. The N. transept and tower at the W. end of the chancel (both E. E.) deserve notice. In the latter the wall of the newel projects into the N. aisle, and is pierced for a lancet light. There are remains of gilding and colour on the roof (Perp.) of the nave. The S. transept has been re moved, and the wall permanently blocked up. Altogether the condi tion of the church is to be regretted.] Camelford was made a free borough by Richard, king of the Romans, and incorporated temp. Chas. II. From the reign of Edward IV. down to the Reform Bill it had returned two M.P.'s. Ossian Macpherson and the patriots Lords Lansdowne and Brougham in turns represented this rotten borough. Captain Wallis, who discovered Otaheite, was born at Fen- tonwoon ^Fenton-woon, i.e. spring or well on the downs), now a farm house, £ m. S., near the river-side. The neighbourhood of Camelford, according to tradition, has been the scene of two sanguinary battles — at Worthyvale, 2 m. N„ near Slaughter Bridge — that between King Arthur and his rebellious nephew Mordred (date 542 ?), in which, it. is said, Mor dred was slain, and King Arthur wounded mortally ; the other between the Britons and the Saxons under Egbert (date 823). Excursions. {a) To Boughtor and Brown Willy, 5 and 7 m. S.E. (Rte. 24). Roughtor has a magnificent appearance, as it rises in a craggy ridge over inter vening hills. It is possible to drive i miles of the way ; the remaining 2 miles must be passed on foot or horseback. In his route to this mountain the traveller will cross a cart-track on the moor, bordered by upright stones, which are ranged along it at regular distances. It will give him an idea of the dreary cha racter of this district. It extends' from a place called Watergate to Boute 21. — Tintagel — Boscastle. Five-lanes, near Launeeston, and the stones were erected by the minis ter, who had to traverse the waste on Sundays, to serve as guides in misty weather ; a long post occurs at inter vals of ^ m., and is marked on the Watergate side with the letter W., and on that towards Fivelanes with the letter F. (6) To the wild valley of Hanter Gantick, by the Devil's Jump (both described in Rte. 24). The shortest route is by the ch. of Adrcnt (see ante). In the third field beyond this ch., by the side of the path, stands a time-worn granite cross, about 9 ft. in height. Tintagel, &c. Distance from Launeeston, 25 m. ; from Camelford, 10 m. Travellers resort to Camelford chiefly because it is on the highway to one of the most interesting districts in Cornwall, since it comprehends Boscastle, the ruins of King Arthur's Castle of Tintagel, the magnificent line of coast between these points, and the Slate-quarries of Delabole. In a visit to the sheep-market of Camel ford the stranger will be reminded of his vicinity to slate-quarries, since each partition is formed of a single slab of that material. The traveller can proceed to Bos castle or Tintagel by Slaughter Bridge ( 1 m. N., and now cor rupted into Sloven's Bridge), which lies on the road from Delabole to Launeeston, and is said to have been named as the spot where King Arthur received his death-wound. (The pre sent local tradition however seems to assert that on Slaughter Bridge Arthur killed his nephew Modred.) Worthyvale, at a short distance from the bridge, was a manor-house of the ancient lords of Boscastle. Sepa rated only by a fence aud gate from the cart-road which leads from Slaughter Bridge to Worthyvale, is the lower part of a tumulus, the upper portion of which has been removed for "top-dressing" by the farmer. A few yards below the tumulus, and at the bottom of the field, a path down a precipitous descent of about 20 ft. leads to the river-side. Here, below the rocky cliff, is a thick, rough slab of coarse granite, about 9 ft. long, 2 broad, and 1 thick, which is called " King Arthur's Tomb." It is said that this stone was removed by a former Lord Falmouth from a position further down the stream and nearer the bridge, to this more secure site. On the stone in rude letters is the in scription, in Latin, " Hie jacet filius Me[gar]i." H m. Boscastle {Inn:* Wellington, clean and the most comfortable quarters in this district ; has been enlarged). This little town (Pop. 366) is situated upon a steep hill, sloping to a valley, which at a short distance is joined by another, each coursed by a rapid stream, when they are together deflected towards the harbour and inlet of Boscastle. The "port" is in a kind of ravine, and is somewhat like Balaclava on a small scale ; and it is a sight worth seeing to watch a vessel in stormy weather being warped in or out of this intricate channel, with the aid of posts on the cliffs above, and cables stretched along. The scenery in the neighbourhood is most romantic, and the country broken by deep furzy bottoms. Of the grandeur of the coast it is impossible to speak too highly. Boscastle has been so called from a castle of the Norman family of De Bottreaux, by which it was once dig nified, and of which a green mound is the only remaining mark. In the reign of Henry. VI. the heiress of the family was married to Robert Lord Hungerford; and as the pos sessions of that nobleman were situ ated at a distance of 100 miles in an 8 Boute 21. — Bottreaux — Boscastle. easterly direction, it is probable that at this period the castle fell into de cay. From the Hungerfords it de scended to the Earls of Huntingdon, who retained it till the reign of Eli zabeth, and their heir in the female line, the late Marquis of Hastings, was Baron Bottreaux. The manor some years since came into the possession of the late T. R. Avery, E^q., who greatly improved the place and developed its trade, and it still belongs to his family. The interestingparish Church of Bot treaux, or Forrabury, with its " silent tower," from which it is said the merry peal has never sounded, is situated above Boscastle, and close to the soaring headland of Willapark Point. It is dedicated to St. Symforian, who, according to the tradition, was buried in it. (St. Symphorian, however — martyred A.n. 180 — was really interred at Autun, of which place he was a native.) An ancient granite cross, resting upon a pe destal of limestone, stands outside the churchyard. Within, the ch. dis plays E. E. portions in the chancel and very early (Saxon) arches in the transepts. The circular font is of Norm, character. The church tower has always remained without bells, according to the legend, because the captain of the ship which was bring ing a new peal to rival that of Tin tagel, whtn in sight of Boscastle, refused to give God thanks for the prosperous voyage, attributed it to his good ship, strong canvas, and bold crew. Before night a storm arose, dashed the vessel agaiust the rocks ; the crew were drowned, except the God-fearing pilot, and the bells foundered ! The story has been admirably versified by the Rev. R. Hawker, of Morwenstow ('Cornish Ballads,' 1869)— " Still when the storm of Bottreau's waves Is wakening in his weedy caves, Those bells, that sullen surpes hide, Peal their deep notes beneatlj the tide : ' Come to thy God in time !' Thus saith the ocean chime ; Storm, billow, whirlwind pist, ' Come to thy God at last.' " The harbour of Boscastle is ^ m. from the upper town. It has been ex cavated by the waves, and is truly ro mantic — a little winding inlet, not a stone's throw in breadth, and opening under the headland of Willapark. (The name occurs elsewhere on this coast — near Combe Martin for example — and signifies " look-out field " ; Welli, a look-out ; pare, a field.) The sea is here in constant agitation, and the cove itself affords no security to shipping ; but a small space at its extremity, of size sufficient to admit two or three vessels at a time, is en closed by a diminutive pier, and this, properly speaking, is the harbour of Boscastle. Everything about this place denotes the boisterous seas to which it is exposed ; boats are made fast by cables which would ordinarily hold a ship, and, stretched along the pier, lie enormous hawsers, thicker than a man's thigh, which are em ployed in checking the impetus of vessels when they enter the harbour. Immediately beyond the pier is a seat, from which the stranger can view at his leisure an interesting phenomenon. A fissure in the oppo site rocks, passing underground about 50 ft., communicates with the open sea, and from this, at intervals, a column of water is violently projected across the harbour, accompanied by a loud report. But the effect is pro duced only within an hour of low- water, and when the sea is agitated. From the same spot may be observed another but more distant phenome non of a similar kind. A hole pierces an island-rock called Meachard, lying outside the harbour, and, as the waves roll by, the spray is occasionally blown from it like a jet of steam. During the summer a number of seals are taken by the Boscastle fishermen. The coast is everywhere undermined by deep caverns, which, when the sea Boute 21. — Willapark Point — Minster Church. a is smooth, the fishermen enter in their boats and explore with torches. The seals, which are fond of lying on ledges in these gloomy retreats, are con founded by the light, and fall an easy prey. They are killed for their oil and skins, which are considered of sufficient value to repay the risk of the adventure. Immediately W. of the harbour rises Willapark Point, a magnificent headland, crowned with a low tower, erected as a prospect-house. On its W. side the cliff's recede and form a gloomy chasm, appropriately called the Blaph Pit, since the rock is here so singularly dark that it may be easily iiistaken for coal. This head land, when viewed from the point to the TV. of it, forms one of the finest cliff-scenes on the coast ; its huge and sombre flanks of slate being contrasted by the light-tinted slope of P.esparvell Do":n, a barren ridge whieh fills in the background, and is in keeping with the desolate cliffs and boisterous ocean. Standing upon this pbint W. of Willapark, the stranger is f Launeeston, and is tolerably well marked as far as S. Petherwin. Northwards, to the ex tremity of the (ounty, the coast in every part exhibits the singular con tortions of the carboniferous strata. From this point, the traveller will observe immediaely W. of him a slate-quarry, callid Grower, worked in the face of the slate cliff. The guide-chains, bj which the stone is raised, are actuary fastened to the bottom of the sea,and on as wild a shore as can well be imagined. From the character of the rocks in this neighbourhood the soil is per fectly black. A delightful excursion can be made from Boscastle to Crachington Core, a romantic spot i£ m. E. The road passes over Besparvell Down (alt. 850 ft.), which is terminated towards the sea by High Cliff (alt. 735 ft.). This down commands a fine view over the Bristol Channel, and along the coast, embracing headland after headland, in magnificent perspective. A quarry for slate is situated on the cliff f m. W. of the cove. Crackington Cove is a recess on the E. side of a small bay, which is bounded on the W. by the picturesque promontory of Cambeak (alt. 333 ft.), and on the E. by Pen- kinna Head, which rises above the sea-level about 400 ft. The latter is an imposing mass of dark slate, varied by white lines of the rock the quarrymen call harder, which show, even at a distance, the contortions of the strata. The general direction of the beds may be observed at low water, when parallel ridges, among many which are contorted, stretch along the beach towards the W.N.W. At the head of the bay the cliffs slope to the shore in imposing curves, forming inclined planes from 100 to 150 ft. in length ; and the retreat of the tide leaves dry under Penkinna Head a rugged bed of rocks, among which are several beautiful stones variously coloured green, white, and brown, aud marked by a network of white or yellow quartz veins, which the wear of the sea has brought into prominent relief. This bay appears intended by nature for a harbour, and a company who are working a slate- quarry about a mile up the valley have contemplated throwing out a pier from Carnbeak. The slate of the cove was some years ago quarried on the face of the cliff; but the stone proving of an inferior quality, the works were abandoned. Minster Church, a small antique building 1 m. E. of Boscastle, deserves notice from its situation in a striking and picturesque nook among the hills. The chancel has E. E. portions, and 10 Boute 21. — Minster Church — Tintagel. the tower — of which only one stage (not above the roof) exists — has a very early western arch. Part of the roof and walls fell in 1868. They fell on a Sunday, aud service had been held in the church in the morning. The building was rebuilt or "restored" in 1871. In it is a tablet with epitaphs for William Cot ton, Canon of Exeter (son of the Bp. of Exeter of the same name), and his wife, who both died in 1656. The English verses partly run — " Sbee first departing, Hpe a few weekes tryed To live without her, could nut, and so dyed. Both in theire wedlocks great Sabutick lest To be, where there's no wedlock, ever blest; And having here a jnbily begun Theyr taken hence that it may nere be done." About 1^ m. from the ch. is a fall of water (about 150 ft.) in a recess on the coast called Pentargan Cove. {The best way to this is along the cliffs from the high flagstaff above Boscastle Harbour.) At Lesnewth (i.e. New Court), l£ m. S.W. of Minster, is a ch. with Norm, and E.E. portions, and a good Perp. tower. From Boscastle to Tintagel is about 5 m„ the intermediate country, though hilly, bearing some resem blance to a natural terrace, bounded on the seaboard by precipices, and on the land-side by a range of ele vated hills, which seem at one period to have marked the border of Britons and English (see post). Proceeding from Boscastle towards Tintagel (you should walk by the coast, a hilly path nearly 6 m. =2 hrs.) — you will reach the farmhouse of Trethevey shortly be fore Longbridge (2 m. from Boscastle). At Trethevey the key of the door leading to St. Nighton's Keive may be obtained, and a guide if wished. At Longbridge the road crosses a deep bottom, through which a brawl ing stream flows to the sea, and a mile up the valley falls nearly 40 ft. in a cascade called St. Nighton's Keive. St. Nigh ton is probably the same as St. Nectan, to whom Hart land ch. is dedicated {Hbdk.for Devon, Rte. 1 8). Owing to a thick growth of brake it is a difficult task to walk through the valley to this waterfall. The better plan is to turn off the road at the farmhouse of Trethevey. From this place, by pursuing a lane for about a mile, and then crossing 3 or 4 fields, the cascade may be reached without trouble. The valley is abruptly terminated by a barrier of rock, through a chasm of which the stream is hurried to a fall, and tum bles about 30 ft. into a circular basin, or Keive, Cornish for a tub. From this it passes through a natural arch, and, gushing under and over a large slab of stone, which is curiously fixed in the opening, is precipitated again 10 ft. into a dell dark with foliage. Altogether the scene is ro mantic and interesting, and will well repay a scramble even through the briers of the valley. A few yards below the fall the water :s confined by a dam, and here there is a large rectangular mass of schist, about 20 ft. long by 6 ft. broad, of so uni form a shape that it might be imagined to be a monumental stone raised over the remains of some solitary giant who had haunted the spa. One on foot should walk down the ralley — which is known as "the Valley of Rocks" — from the bridge to the sea. This is the prettiest part of it ; it is roughened by schistose rocks, aid contains Tre- villet watermills, which are proper subjects for the penril, and have been painted by Creswicn under the title of "The Valley Mill." You should proceed by the cliffs to Tintagel. On the W. side of the bay into which the valley opens is a dark little recess, called Bossiney Hole, shut in by lofty precipices. DurLig the summer and autumn this spot, at low water, is a scene of singuar bustle, as a num ber of donkeys ire then employed in scrambling up and down the rocks, carrying bags of sand, which are sold to the farmer as a top-dressing for the land. A headland called Willapark, Boute 21. — Trevena — Tintagel Castle. 11 resembling the point at Boscastle, juts out to the W. of it, and opposite to the village of Bossiney. As seen from the W. it presents a sheer preci pice of a very striking and beautiful appearance, a perfect wall, tinted with yellow lichens. Bossiney is a mere hamlet of poor cottages, but it has been represented in Pari, by Sir Fran cis Drake, Sir Francis Cottington, and other distinguished persons. In 1695 its member was John Tregeagle, son of " Giant Tregeagle," and sheriff of the county. The village is remark able for being built round a large barrow, on which it was the custom to read the writ for the election of M.P.s before the borough was disfranchised. 1 Trevena {Inn : Wharncliffe Arms — comfortable, Boscastle Inn is better. To Bude is 21 m., to Bodmin 20 m.). Some of the cottagers can furnish a bed or a meal. Tintagel is 6 m. from Camelford, 20 m. from Laun eeston. In front of the inn is a Cornish Cross. This village is about £ hr. distant from the headland of Tintagel (locally pronounced Down- dadgel; the name is said to signify the " impregnable fortress"), which, celebrated as the most romantic scene in Cornwall, derives additional inte rest from being crowned with a ruinous Castle of high antiquity, the reputed birthplace and residence of King Arthur. N.B. — The ruins of the castle on the headland are protected by a wall and a locked door, the key of which is kept at a small house passed on the way from the village. (This house is below the road, by the side of the stream, and has been a mill.) The promontory consists of a penin sula, united to the coast by a neck of broken rocks, pierced by a long dark cavern, or rather tunnel, which may be passed through at low water. It is about 80 yards in length. The tide enters first from the farther side. The castle is approached through a wild hollow, commencing at Trevena, descending to the sea in the rocky recess under Tintagel, where the stream which flows through it falls over the precipice in a cascade. So abrupt is the cliff at this spot,, that vessels were formerly brought along side for the purpose of shipping slate. This hazardous practice is now dis continued, but a wooden stage, pro jecting over the cliff, and other machinery employed in loading the vessels, still remain, and are a happy addition to the picturesque. The ruins of the castle are situated partly on the mainland and partly on the peninsula, being separated by the deep chasm or gap occasioned by the partial de struction of the isthmus. Consider ing the exposure of the locality, and the number of years which must have elapsed since the erection of the building, it is surprising that any por tion should exist. The scanty ruins, nevertheless, occupy an area of some extent, and consist of dark disinter grated walls, which are pierced by small square apertures and arched entrances. The two parts of the castle are said to have been once connected by a drawbridge, and this is not improbable, as the neck of land is continually diminishing under the repeated assaults of the sea, so that the chasm, if indeed it ex isted, may have been inconsiderable when the castle was built. In addi tion to the ruins which stand on the heights, the remains of an ancient landing-place, called Porth Hern (the Iron Gate), may be seen at the base of the promontory. These consist of a massive bastion and gateway, which, like the outer walls of the castle, have been sometimes con sidered to date from the time of the Damnonian kingdom — before the English had penetrated so far west ward. The walls are built of the slate of the country, with coarse mortar full of small grit-stones. " The lower part of the chapel, with a W. porch and a solid altar, may be traced, with a burial- 12 Boute 21. — Tintagel Castle. ground close to it. Another part is erroneously called the church, but was clearly a domestic building with a round staircase and a gar- derobe. This work appears to be of the 1 3th centy. There is a pointed arch to the doorway, and the walls are at present not more than 2 ft. 6 in. thick. . . . The work on the mainland and on the island appears to be all of the same character, and had doubtless been connected by a drawbridge. The whole appears to be of the beginning of the 13th centy. with some later alterations." — J. H. P. There is, however, very little from which to form an accu rate judgment as to the date of these remains, since there are no mould ings or cut stone fragments. The walls are falling away year by year with the cliff. The island will be visited by every intelligent traveller, the ascent now presenting little diffi culty, as a winding path has been cut in the face of the cliff, although it must be admitted that the remark of Norden still applies — " he must have eyes that will scale Tintagel." This path at first descends a little rt„ and then, bending at the angle, ascends by steps to the top of the precipice. (Here the traveller will encounter a high wall, in which is a locked door, the key of which he should have pro cured on his way (see ante). The early history of Tintagel Castle is to be gleaned only from tradition. There is no authentic record of its origin ; but the tradi tion which has connected Tintagel with Arthur, the " flower of kings," is of unknown antiquity, and — al though the existing remains are no doubt of far later date — a principal stronghold of the old "princes" of " West Wales " — by which name Cornwall and part of Devonshire were called to a late period — may very probably have existed on this site. In the mediceval romances belonging to the cycle of Arthur the name of Tintagel frequently occurs — most fre quently in the romances of Tristrem, where Tintagel is made the castle of king Mark of Cornwall. " Tintagel," it is said in one of them — " estoit un chastel Qui moult par art e lort e bel, Ne cremoist asalt ne engin qui vailte- Sur la mer en Cornouaille." The walls, continues the description, were painted with various colours, and had been laid under a powerful spell, by means of which the castle became invisible twice in the year (see the Romans de Tristan, ed. Michel). Soon after the Conquest Tintagel became a residence of the Earls of Cornwall, and in 1245 Earl Richard, the son of King John, re ceived in it secretly his nephew David Prince of Wales — whom he had supported " more than was right" during the expedition in that year, of Henry III. against the Welsh. Subsequently it became the property of the crown, and was oc casionally used as a prison' — John of Northampton, ex - Lord Mayor of London, having been sent here in 1385, according to Carew, " for his unruly mayoralty condemned hither as a perpetual penitentiary " — until the reign of Elizabeth, when Bur leigh, considering the cost of keep ing it in repair too onerous, allowed it to fall into ruins. It now belongs to the Duchy. Such in a few words is all that we know of Tintagel, but the stranger, as he contemplates its "worm-eaten hold of ragged stone," will recall the romantic stories of King Arthur and his knights, re- erect the castle, and send forth from its gates the well-known band. The ruinous walls are remarkable for their dark and sombre hue, unrelieved by the usual patchwork of lichens ; and the stones, worn to sharp edges by the weather, being laid on the bare rock, the direction of their lamina? coincid ing with those of the cliffs, can be scarcely distinguished from the Boute 21. — Tintagel Castle. 13 ground at a little distance. The slate of the promontory well merits notice. Where removed from the more destructive influence of the waves, it has been singularly wea thered by wind and rain into a mul titude of little basins and ridges, presenting an appearance similar to that of a body of snow or ice which has been for some time exposed to the sun's rays. Some of these slate " rock basins" are whimsically called King Arthur's Cups and Saucers. On the W. side a grotesque mass of slate rises in a jagged pillar, about 40 ft. high, and appears as if it had been acted upon by a corrosive acid. A spring of fresh water rises on the summit of the promontory, and a few sheep pasture on the turf, and occasionally fall into the sea. The flavour of the island mutton is con sidered particularly fine. The bo tanist will observe that the cliffs are hung with samphire, and he may pro cure specimens of Trifolium stellatum from their rocky crevices. The character of this iron-bound coast is well seen at Tintagel. The sea front, mostly composed of slate, presents a series of inaccessible head lands and gloomy recesses, illustrat ing the influence of the " Atlantic drift," which is especially directed into the Bristol Channel. The sea is here ever heaving in long undu lations, and, the water being deep to the land, the base of the cliffs is worn by the roll of the waves into a concave surface, which presents an effectual barrier to escape in shipwreck. This is not the place to discuss the question of the historic exist ence of Arthur — whom, however, Mr. Rees and Dr. Guest, the two best authorities on the subject, con sider to have been a true prince of Cornwall, who long withstood the westward advance of the English. Of his origin as the great hero of romance there are many versions, but on this spot we shall of course prefer that given by the Laureate — " And that night the bard Sang Arthur's glorious wars, and sang the king As well nigh more than man, and railed at those Who allied him the false son of Gorlols : For there was no man knew from whence he came; But after tempest, when the long wave broke All down the thundering shores of Bude and Boss, There came a day as still as heaven, and then They found a naked child upon the sands Of wild Dundagil by the Cornish sea ; And that was Arthur; and they fostered him Till he by miracle was approven king : And that his grave should be a mystery From all men, like his birth . . . ." The local pronunciation of the castle — " Dundagil " — is here adopted. The scene of Arthur's disappearance in the fatal battle of Camlan, fought against the traitor Mordred — "That great battle in the west Where I must strike against my sister's son, Leagued with the lords of the White Horse, and knights Once mine, and strike him dead, and meet myself Death, or I know not what mysterious doom" — is fixed by local tradition at Camel ford (see ante), and by certain of the romancers, followed by Tenny son (' Morte d'Arthur '), in Lyon- nesse — the mysterious submerged district between the Land's End and the Scilly Isles. The grave of the "clear-faced king" remains a mys tery. A stone called "King Ar thur's tomb" is pointed out at Slaughter Bridge, near Camelford. A well-known mediaeval story as serted that his tomb was discovered and opened at Glastonbury — where the historic Arthur may very possibly have been interred — in the reign of Hen. II., the tomb having been marked by the line — " Hie Jacet Arturus, rex quondam rexque futurus." At Tintagel it is still believed that he haunts the battlements of his castle in the shape either of a Cor nish chough or a raven, it is not certain which, but neither of thes.e birds is willingly shot by the na- 14 Boute 21. — Tintagel : Church — Delabole Quarries. tives. This belief is referred to by Don Quixote — "Have you not read, sir, . . . the famous exploits of King Arthur ? . . of whom there goes an old tradition that this king did not die, but that by magic art he was turned into a raven ; and that in process of time he shall reign ¦ again, and recover his kingdom and sceptre ; for which reason it cannot be proved that, from that time to this, any Englishman has killed a raven." — Bk. ii. ch. 5. "Guinevere," the name of Arthur's faithless queen, is still common in Cornwall under the form of " Jennifer." Tintagel, in early days, was the gateway into the Celtic peninsula, the only military road passing it on its course along the N. coast of De von and Cornwall. Hence its an cient importance, and the battles which occurred in its immediate vi cinity. The boundary of the Celt and Saxon may perhaps be traced from the Tamar to Tintagel by the names of the villages — Michaelstow, Ja- cobstow, Davidstow, Morwenstow, &c. — but the real history of the gra dual advance of the English into Cornwall, and of the boundaries of the two races at different periods, has still to be accurately traced. The Church of Tintagel (dedicated to St. Marcelliana), stands on an ex posed spot above the lofty cliffs W. of the castle, and has been subjected to restoration (1871). It contains Saxon portions (transept arches ?) ; Norm, (chancel arch and font, re markable, on 4 spreading legs) ; E. E. (western tower arch) ; and Dec. and Perp. elsewhere. The N. chancel arch, or Lady -chapel, has the original stone altar. The roof of the porch is formed of 4 large slabs. In the nave is a good Brass for Johanna Boon, circ. 1430, and in the S. tran sept an incised slab with countersunk bead of the effigy, temp. Edw. I. The ch. once belonged to the Abbey of Fontevrault in Normandy. Edward IV. bestowed it upon the collegiate ch. at Windsor, and at present the dean and chapter of that establishment at tach the great tithes, and are the patrons of the living. The chief fur niture of the ch. is decorated with the cross of St. George accordingly. The vicar of Tintagel is constable of the castle. The stranger will notice in the churchyard the green mounds — almost barrows — of some old graves ; and on an altar-tomb, near the door, some curious lines to the memory of a man who was killed by lightning in the last century. In the church yard also was buried (1S68) John Douglas Cooke, for many years prin cipal editor of the ' Saturday Review.' He occasionally occupied a cottage (built by himself) at Tintagel, but died in London. 1 m. S. of Trevena is Trebarwith (pronounced Trebarreth) Strand, the sandy shore of a bay about a mile in width, and deservedly a favourite spot with artists ; not only is it intrin sically beautiful as a coast-scene, but it offers facilities for the study of the sea in its purity. The rocky cliffs of this part of Cornwall have, in par ticular, been painted by Creswick, and in many points resemble Italian coast- scenery. From Tintagel the traveller should return to Camelford by the Delabole Quarries, which are 4 m. from Tre vena and 2 m. W. from Camelford. They are celebrated for producing the best slate in the kingdom, and have been worked many years, being mentioned by Carew, who wrote in the reign of Eliz. On the road he will pass another large quarry called Bowethick, or North Delabole, situated in a valley rendered picturesque by protruding rocks, and opening to the sea at the little cove of Port William. 2 villages owe their origin to the Delabole quarries, Pengelley and Med- rose. The only accommodation is to be found at 4 m. Pengelley, i.e. head of the grove {Inn : the Old Delabole Inn). Boute 21.— Pengelley : Quarries. 15 The Quirries present one of the most astonishing and animated scenes im aginable. The traveller suddenly beholds a vast excavation, the re sult of the uninterrupted labour of centuries, encompassed by dark blue hills of rubbish, continually on the increase, and slowly encroaching upon the domain of the farmer. The scene is enlivened by a throng of men busily engaged in various noisy employments, while waggons and horses are everywhere in rapid motion, and steam-engines are lift ing with a harsh sound their pon derous arms, and raising loaded trucks from the depths of the pit, or masses of slate of several tons' weight, which are seen slowly as cending guide-chains to stages which overhang the quarry. The stranger should obtain the services of one of the " captains ' ' — superintendents — who are always willing to act as guides, and to explain the different operations to which the slate is sub jected. The quarry is about 260 ft. in depth. Upon the edge of the quarry is the Papote Head, a pro jecting platform, from which a num ber of guide-chains are stretched like the shrouds of a ship to the base of the pit. The slate is first loosened by small charges of gunpowder ; it is then torn up by wedges and crow bars, and placed in trucks, which, being attached to a wheel which tra verses a guide-chain, are drawn up by the steam-engine some feet above the Papote Head. Movable stages, called hatches or tables, are then run out under the trucks, which, being lowered upon a framework on wheels, are drawn away by horses to the dif ferent workshops, where the slate is split into various sizes, according to the purpose it is intended to serve. The water is pumped from the quarry by water-wheels into an adit, and the slate is shipped at the little harbours of Port Gavorne and Bos castle, the former being the principal port in the summer, the latter in the winter, as affording the best shelter to the vessels. About 1000 men are employed in these works, who raise on an average 120 tons of slate per day, which, manufactured on the spot into roofing slates, cisterns, aud other articles, are exported to various parts of the United Kingdom, aud to France, Belgium, the West Indies, and America. The roofing slates of Delabole are particularly famous, and are divided into various sizes, called respectively Ladies, Coun tesses, Duchesses, Queens, Rags, and Imperials. If the stranger should be desirous of comparing the produce from different parts of the quarry, he can ascertain the quality by the sound when the stone is struck, which should be clear and sonorous ; by the colour, since the light blue is firm and close, the blackish blue of a loose texture and apt to imbibe water ; and lastly by the feel, a good stone being hard and rough to the touch, and a bad one smooth and oily. The best slate from any quarry is called the bottom-stone, and at Dela bole is found at and below a depth of 24 fath. from the surface. The name Delabole, or Dennabowl (sometimes cor rupted into Dilly-bolly), is in Corn wall often associated with patches of barren soil, and there are furze-crofts on many estates which are thus deno minated. On the eastern edge of the Bodmin Moors we find a Dennabowl in close proximity to Stonyford, a name which sufficiently denotes the character of the district The coun try in the vicinity of Pengelley bristles with hedges of slate, and the sides and roofs of out-houses are here frequently formed of single slabs of that material. The neighbourhood is a convenient one for the builder, as the proprietors of the quarries are too happy to have the deads removed, since their accumulation involves the sacrifice of much valuable land. Delabole slate belongs to the Upper Devonian formation : rock crystals occur in the quarries. 16 Boute 22. — Camelford to Wadehridge. ROUTE 22, CAMELFORD TO ST. COLVMB AND 1'ADSTOW. — MAWGAN, NEWQVAT, AND BODKUTHAN STEPS, BY WADE- BEIDGE. Coach daily to St. Columb. Proceeding from Camelford to wards Wadehridge, a pleasant drive of 12 m. partly down the valley of the Kestoll, we reach 3 m. 1. St. Teath. In the Church see a curious pulpit, carved and coloured. It was presented to the parish in 1630 by the family of Carminowe, who, in the celebrated Scrope and Grosvenor quarrel, asserted that they had borne the disputed arms (azure, a bend or) from " the days of King Arthur " ( Scrope and Grosvenor Boll, by Nicolas). In the E. window of the S. transept is the shield of Hen. VII., with other heraldic bear ings. There are some good seat-ends, and an effigy in the N. transept (of the 13th centy.?). Near St. Teath (pronounced St. Teth) is a wayside cross, with 3 holes only, standing in the hedge. Of St. Tethe, or St. Etha, nothing is known. 1. about 2 m. lies the remote church- town of Michaelstow. The Church has Dec. portions (nave ; where the piers on the S. side are of granite, with foliated capitals of Caen stone), and Perp. (S. aisle and tower). There is a good open roof to the S. aisle, and the N. aisle has a chantry (divided off by screen) at its E. end. The font is Norm. There are some fragments of stained glass. In this parish is St. Syth's (Osyth's?) beacon — an earthwork rising to a great height. 3 m. rt. St. Kew. The Church is of the early part of the 15th centy., somewhat resembling Bodmin. The tower is fine. The cradle roofs deservn notice. There are incised slabs (17th centy.) in the chancel and N. aisle. Almost every window has remains of stained glass, and in the E. window is a Root of Jesse (15th cent.), said to have come from Bodmin. The wild boar which figures in one of the windows is said to have been killed in Lemon Woods by a man named Lanow ; the name also of the parish before the dedication of the ch. to St. Kew, of whom nothing is known. On the same side of the road, at a distance of about 5 m., is Endellion. The ch. is of no great interest. In the parish is Port Issyk (issic, i.e. lower port) — corrupted into Port Isaac — whence the Delabole slate is exported. 1. St. Tudy. Hengar House, a seat of Sir Henry Onslow, Bart., is enriched by some tapestry and paint ings. In the ch. are monuments of the Nicols family, one dated 1597. 2 m. 1. St. Mabyn, and near it an earthwork called Kitlbury or Kelly Bounds, circ. with 2 high ramparts and ditches, much destroyed. The church-tower of St. Mabyn (75 ft.) is one of the loftiest in the county: it was much damaged by light ning in 1865. There are grotesque corbels at the angles of the upper stages, and 4 statues in niches at the top. The tower stands on an eminence. The ch. is for the most part Perp. The E. window is a me morial for Francis Hext and wife. 4 m. Wadebridge ( Inns : Molesworth Arms ; Commercial Hotel), a town remarkable for its Bridge over the estuary of the Camel or Alan, the longest and one of the oldest in the county, temp. Ed. IV., but partly reconstructed since 1850. It is a picturesque structure of 17 arches (one arch at each end is built up), and is said to have originated in the exertions of a vicar of Egloshayle, Boute 22. — Wadehridge — Padstow. named Loveybound, or Lovebond, who, affected by the continual loss of life at the ferry — (the old ford, the wath or wade), — raised, "with great paine and studie," a fund sufficient to pay the cost of its erec tion, and at his death bequeathed an annual sum of 20/. to be applied towards its maintenance. A railroad runs from this town to Bodmin, aud a branch extends in the direction of Camelford to Wenford Bridge, near the rocky valley of Hmtcr-Gantick. (Rte. 21.) The trains (but only on market and fair- days) carry passengers as far as Bodmin, but are ordinarily em ployed in bringing copper and iron- ore from the Lanescot and other mines, and conveying imports and sea-sand for manure up the country. The valley of the Camel, through which this rly. passes, contains the prettiest scenery in the neighbour hood. The situation of St. Breock ch. is especially pleasing. The parish Church of Egloshnyle {the ch. by tlie river) stands on the rt. bank of the Camel, I m. above Wadehridge, and may be seen from the bridge. The E. E. walls remain ; the rest is Perp. ; and the tower, which is a fine specimen, was probably, as well as the S. aisle, the work of Lovebond, the vicar who built the bridge. In the moulding of the W. door is a serpent, triumphant on one side, de pressed on the other. In the chan cel is an incised slab to the Kestells, 1522. The stone pulpit ' IatePerp.) is no doubt Lovebond's work. His shield or device is the 3 hearts with fillet, on which is the name " Loveybound." This is seen on the tower door. St. Breock Church, which has been re stored, is mostly Perp., except the tower, which is Dec, and the very fine font, also of Dec. form. In the chancel is a Brass for a civilian and 2 wives, circ. 1510 (Tredinicks ?). About 5 m. on the road to Bodmin [Cornwall^] 17 is Bencarrow (Lady Molesworth), with beautiful garden and grounds (see Rte. 23) ; and 5 m. N. by E., in an elevated, unfrequented part of the country, St. Endellion, with a weather- stained ch., dating from the reign of Hen. VI. (see ante). On an opposite hill are some remains of Boscarrock House, formerly residence of the an cient family of Roscarrock, a pon derous building, castellated and loop- holed, aud entered through a heavy arch of granite. An Excursion to Padstow can be made from Wadehridge by a wild bleak road, turning rt. about 1 m. after crossing the river, and passing St. Issey, Little Petherick; or, when tide suits, the river may be descended in a boat to 8 m. Padstow. {Inns : Commercial Hotel. There is a ferry across the harbour, and good accommodation at the " Rock Ferry Hotel " on the N. side of the estuary — far preferable to sleeping at Padstow, which is a close dirty town. Steamers ply be tween Padstow and Bristol, calling at Swansea and Ilfracombe.) (Pop. 2489). This is one of those anti quated unsavoury fishing-towns which are viewed most agreeably from a distance. It is situated about 1 m. from the sea, near the mouth of the Alan estuary, and its name is generally said to be an abbreviation of Petrockstowe. But this is un certain. The "St. Petrock's stow" of the Sax. Chron. is Bodmin (see Rte. 2.3). The Old Cornish name of Padstow was Laffenack, and the Eng lish Aldestowe = the old " stow " or place. This became corrupted into Adelstow, and it was asserted that Athelstan had founded it when, after driving the Britons from Exeter, he passed westward into Cornwall. (This however is a claim put forth without reason by many Cornish towns.) The name "Padstow" can- o 18 Boute 22. — Place House — Padstow Barbour. not be traced back for many centuries. There is a tradition that St. Patrick landed here, aud the name may com memorate him; or as the manor, port, harbour, and fishery belonged to the monastery at Bodmin, it may gradually have acquired the name of St. Petrock. Padstow appears to have been a seaport of some consequence in early days, and is mentioned as hav ing contributed two war-ships fully equipped for the siege of Calais (Edw. III.). Its prosperity, accord ing to a tradition, declined in the reign of Hen. VIII., in consequence of an accumulation of sand at the mouth of the harbour. The Church of St. Petrock, which is late Dec, has been restored throughout by Miss Prideaux Brune, of Place. The slender pillars, with banded capitals and lofty arches, deserve notice. The windows have all been filled with stained glass, and the timber roofs are new. The font, with an arcade and figures of the 12 Apostles, is ancient, with the ex ception of the 4 side shafts. It is of " Caraclew " stone (i. e. Car-a-clew = grey rock). In the ch. is a monu ment (1627) to Sir Nicholas Prideaux. Tintagel Castle is 16 miles distant. Place House (Charles Prideaux Brune, Esq.), the ancient seat of the family of Prideaux, stands, encircled by trees, upon the high ground above Padstow. It was erected in 1600 upon the site of a monastery said to have been founded by St. Petroc, and destroyed by the Danes in 981. It contains numerous pictures, in cluding several youthful productions of the Cornish artist Opie, who, he- fore leaving the county, made an ex pedition to Padstow, where he painted ull the Prideauxes, their servants, and even the family cats. Among the older portraits are those of Humphrey Prideaux, the learned Dean of Nor wich, who was born here, and Har riet Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland. There is a large painting of Jupiter and Europa, some good landscapes, cattle-pieces, and a Madonna and Child. The Church of Little Petherick, 3 m. on the Wadehridge road, has been ad mirably rebuilt, on the plans of Mr. W. White, by the late vicar, Sir Hugh Molesworth, Bart. It con tains a valuable copy of Fox's ' Book of Martyrs,' 3 vols, folio, published 1684. Padstow Harbour, though much obstructed by sand, with an entrance narrow and dangerous, and a bar called the Dunbar (Dune bar) within its mouth, is the only place of shelter on the N. coast of Cornwall ; and during gales from the N.W., when a refuge on this iron-bound shore is particularly required, its entrance is attended with considerable risk, as at these times there is an eddy of wind within the point by which vessels are likely to be taken aback and driven upon the sands. A capstan has, how ever, been placed on Stepper Point (227 ft. above the sea), and when a vessel is expected a pilot-boat waits within the headland, so as to carry a hawser on board in time to prevent these fatal effects. But it is proposed to construct a harbour of refuge here. The sands are thought to be now on the decrease, owing to the amazing quantity which is annually taken from the Dunbar, and despatched for agricultural manure up the country. They are said to be the richest in the county in carb. of lime, of which they contain 80 per cent., and are in such demand that the amount thus carried away in the year has been estimated at no less than 100,000 tons. A raised beach may be seen at the mouth of the harbour. The E. shore of the estuary is desolated with sand, which, piled in a series of naked bills, gives great wildness to the view from Padstow, but has rather a cheerful appearance on an overclouded day, when it appears as if brightened by sunshine. Boute 22. — Padstow Harbour — Trevose Head. 19 This sand had partly buried an ancient chapel, dedicated to St. Eiw- doc (locally " Sinkineddy " ), and situated under the E. side of Bray Hill, a barren eminence 209 ft. above the sea, lying a short distance N. of Padstow, but on the opposite side of the harbour. The sand was piled around this buildiug to the level of the roof, and has been excavated to allow access to it. The ch. has been restored, and the sand is now fixed by grasses (marram) sown upon it. There are several ancient tombstones upon the surface. Observe one on the N.E. side of the churchyard with a quaint inscription and date 1687. This little ch. was built about 1430, to supply the place, it is thought, of an ancient oratory, traces of which were revealed about 1822, but only for a short time, by the shifting of the sand on Bray Hill. On approaching the existing ch. little else is seen than its crooked spire of slate-stone, blackened by the salt breezes and en crusted with yellow lichens. Its Norman font, a plain circular bowl with cable-moulding at the base, is an indication of the existence of a ch. prior to the present structure. Ser vice is now performed in it once a fortnight. St. Enodoc is in the parish of St. Mincer, where is a very inte resting E. E. Church with Perp. ad ditions. The W. tower is E. E. The nave is nearly filled with seats having well-carved ends. There is a Brass to Roger Opy and wife, 1517. Some incised slate slabs have been arranged behind the altar. Between Wadehridge and St. Eno doc is a small Chapel on the sandy shore of Padstow harbour called St. Michael, or the Rock Church; it is in most features like St. Enodoc Ch., but without tower and spire. The font is almost exactly the same. Against its eastern wall, on the out side, is a good head of a large cross without a staff. On the opposite side of the estuary, and near Trevose Head (4 m. W.), the stranger may find the tower of another old ch., dedicated to St. Con- stantine, which the sand has invaded with more fatal effect. Near the mouth of the harbour are 3 island rocks, which are visited in the summer by parties of pleasure, or persons in search of gulls' eggs. There is risk, however, in the adventure, as a ground-sea sometimes rises without warning, and cuts off the retreat. At Borthqueen (i. e. Porthgwin = White Porth) and Kellan Head (alt. 209 ft.), situated on the coast be tween Padstow and Bort Isaac, are fine specimens of trap-dy kes. Neither accommodation or good food are to be had at Porth Gwin or Porth Isaac. At Kellan Head the intrusive rock has caught up fragments of slate, which appear to have been much altered by the heat of the igneous mass. Trevose Head (4 m. W.), where are some silver-lead mines, is a good point for a view of the coast, since it is situated about midway between Hartland and St. Ives, and projects boldly into the Channel. The lighthouse was erected 1847. It exhibits two fixed lights, one upon the summit of the tower (alt. 204 ft.), the other at the base, and 129 ft. above high-water mark. Be tween Bentire Point and Trevose Head the cliffs show the effects of considerable disturbance. On the W. side of the latter headland trappean rocks are singularly mixed with are naceous beds and argillaceous slates. Organic remains occur abundantly in the slates ind calcareous beds near Dinas Cove, S.W. of Padstow. Proceeding from Wadehridge to wards St. Columb. Coach in sum mer: — • 2 m. Before reaching this milestone a small stone cross 1. on the road side, rt. to Padstow, 6 m. 1 m. No Man's Land. Here the tra veller ascends the wild highland of c 2 20 Boute 22.— St. Columb Major. St. Breock Downs (alt. 739 ft), which has a particularly black and gloomy aspect, even at a distance. 1. 1 m. is a rock called the Druids' Altar; and If m. the Great Stone, at the in tersection of 4 cross-roads. 1;t m. rt. St. Issey Beacon, a conspi cuous landmark. 1. St. Breock Down. J m. Here, 1. of the road, may be seen 6 upright stones, the remnant of 9, which once stood in a row, and were known as the Nine Maidens (in Corn. " Naw Wawrs," the "nine sisters "). They are possibly se pulchral. 3 m. St. Columb Major {Inn:* Red Lion, comfortable, kept by Polkin- horne, an excellent guide to the dis trict, aud most civil and obliging landlord). See the silver punch bowl given to his father, the famous Cornish wrestler, who baffled Cann, the Devonshire champion. Coach daily to Launeeston in 5 hrs. Omnibus daily to Grampound road Stat. (Rte. 23;. This town (Pop. 2879) is situated about 5 m. from the sea, and derives its name from St. Columb— not the famous St. Columbkille, but a sainted Irish virgin, who in the 5th cent, preached in Cornwall. Her remains rested in the same tomb with SS. Patrick and Bridget in Down Cathedral. The town is seated upon an eminence, the reputed site of. a Danish fortification. The Church (restd., 1867, St. Aubyn, architect) is of great size and beauty. It is Early Dec. (piers and arches of nave, S. porch door, S. transept window, and font), and Perp. (all the remain ing portions). In the chancel ob serve the stone altar, found in 1S46 under the floor, and now placed on 4 granite shafts. The chancel was once 10 ft. longer, but was in jured by an explosion of gunpowder in 1676. The window of the S. transept is a fine example. The font has grotesque faces, protruding tongues at each other, on the sides. There are S. and N. porches; and the W. tower (Perp.) stands on open arches W., S., and N. In the ch. are 3 Brasses — Sir John Arundell, Kt. of the Bath (1545), and 2 wives; Sir John Arundell (d. 1590) and wife (engraved circ. 1630) ; and John Arundell (1633) and wife. In the churchyard is a small and curious cross. The manor of St. Columb belonged to the priory of Bodmin, whence it 'passed to the Arundells, and early in the present centy. to T. Raw lings, Esq., of Padstow. The Rectory, which has been restored, is quadrangular and moated, and is said to have been intended for a college of 6 priests. Some good Gothic houses have been erected in the town. Trewan (R. H. S. Vyvyan, Esq.) stands on an eminence above St. Columb, of which it commands a fine view in connection with a long dis tance of hill and valley, lt is a bat- tlemented building of the^l5th cent., which for a long period had fallen into decay, hut it has been restored by its proprietor. The ancient granite entrance ball has been preserved, and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the Elizabethan period. Carnanton, seat of H. Willyams, Esq., inherited from Noy, the attor ney general of Charles I., who, says Fuller, " was wont pleasantly to say that his house had no fault in it save only that it was too near unto London," and Nanswhyden, Miss Brune, are near this town. Omnibus daily to St. Columb road stat. on the Cornwall Minerals Uly. (Rte. 36) running to the Great Western Line at Par. St. Columb is an excellent centre from which to visit many of the places described in the present route and in Rte. 21. It is the only spot, however, from which the very inter esting range of coast between the Towan and Trevose Heads — forming Watergate Bay — is convenieutly ac- CAMELFORD T O TINTAGEL and. SEABOARD , S c ale John. Murray, Zondon. . Boute 22. — Mawgan — Lanherne. 21 cessible. This line of coast of about 20 m. is at no point farther distant than 8 m. from St. Columb. The spots specially to be visited are the va'e and village of Mawgan, the watering-place of Sciequtty, and the coast between Piran Sands and Tre vose Head, including the little bay known as Bodruthan Stcjis, present ing some of the finest cliff scenery in Cornwall. (Walk to Mawgan through the Carnanton woods — in which the ferns are magnificent — or drive by the lodge through the grounds, permission being given.) It is well to take provisions before starting on these excursions ; Inns there are none. The Vale of Mawgan or Lanherne, which stretches in a direct line from the town of St. Columb to the lonely little "Porth" or cove in which it terminates, is perhaps the most beau tiful "com he" on the N. coast of Cornwall. Throughout, it "presents a succession of lovely scenery : the groves of Carnanton, once the seat of Noy, Charles I.'s able, though miserly and crabbed, attorney-gene ral (his heart at his death was found shrivelled up, say his biographers, into the substance of a leathern penny purse); the grey convent at Lan herne, formerly the manor-house of the Arundells, devoted by one of the family to the reception of nuns driven hither by the first French re volution ; the old church tower of Mawgan, embowered in its grove of lofty Cornish elms (the small- leaved variety, strangely neglected in other parts of England;." The Church of St. Mawgan (3 m. from St. Columb) is throughout Perp., with a fine tower, 70 ft. high, from the top of which the view down the valley is striking. The Church, which contains screenwork and old carved bench-ends, has been restored by Butterfield, who also de signed the parsonage. There are Brasses for — a priest, circ. 1420; Cecily, dau. of Sir John Arundell, 1578; a civilian, circ. 1580; and Jane, dau. of Sir John Arundell, c. 1 580. " She served 5 queens," runs the inscription. This brass is a palimpsest, and has on the reverse portions of 2 Flemish brasses, circ 1 375. The nuns of Lanherne buried in the transept. In the churchyard is a very interest ing Cross of the 14th centy. Under 4 niches at the summit of an octagonal shaft are — the Almighty Father with the dove holding a crucifix, the usual representation of the Holy Trinity; an Abbot ; an Abbess ; and a King aud Queen, the latter kneeling at a lectern ; below, an angel holds a scroll, which rises to the queen's crown. The work is well executed and well preserved. Here is also the stern of a boat, painted white, and erected in the place of a tombstone over the grave of 10 unfortunate 'fishermen who, on a winter's night of 1846, were drifted ashore in their boat, a ghastly crew, frozen to death. Adjoining the ch. is the old manor- house of the Arundells, Lanherne, for more than 60 years a Carmelite nun nery. It became the property of the Cornish Arundells in 1231. On their extinction in 1700 it passed to Lord Arundell of Wardour, and in the beginning of the present centy. was assigned by its proprietor to a sister hood of nuns, who, driven from France to Antwerp by the Revolu tion, had emigrated to England when the French entered Belgium. It has always belonged to a Roman Catho lic ; and in one of the walls is a secret chamber in which, it is said, a priest was concealed for 18 months in the reign of Elizabeth. One side of the house is ancient fcirc. 1580?). The inmates are an abbess and 20 nuns, who inhabit the modern portion of the building. The chapel, fitted up in the style of Louis XIV., is the only room to which strangers can gain access, but it is hardly worth 22 Boute 22. — Mawgan Porth — Newquay. seeing. The nuns occupy a gallery closely boarded and curtained. Strangers may here attend mass, but they are not allowed to advance from beneath the gallery whilst the nuns are in the chapel. The convent gardens, surrounded by high walls, are used for exercise and burial. The cemetery contains an ancient sculptured cross, the shaft covered with knot-work, which originally stood in the parish of Gwinear. From Mawgan you should walk down the valley to the coast, and visit Mawgan Porth, and the romantic little bay called Bodruthan Steps, about 2 m. to the N. of it. (Overhanging Bodruthan is an ancient intrench- ment, known as Red Cliff Castle ) The sea view from the top of the cliffs, looking out over the bay, is almost unrivalled. "Across the beds of sea- pink, our feet sinking deeper in its soft cushions at every step we take . . we stand at the cliff-edge. . . . I grant the most patriotic Cornubian at once, that nowhere, at no time, had we looked on a scene like this. Twenty miles of cliff, a hundred of rolling water outspread before us — a score or more of lesser bays, each with their own golden sands and gleamingpromontory indented within the embrace of the one noble bay." — G. F. J. These are the seas which [ [ Hook delights to paint. Before him " no artist seems to have truly felt the gladness and glory of our blue waters." — F. T. P. There is excel lent fishing (trout and peal) in the stream which runs through the Maw gan valley. The coast at Mawgan Porth is pierced with caverns in all directions, said to be of unknown extent. The largest has an entrance about 300 ft. high, and extends in ward for about 800 ft. Bodruthan Steps (formerly reached by numerous steps down the cliffs) is a bay N.E. of Mawgan Porth, with a beach of fine sand — grandiose slate cliffs 400 ft. high, pierced by number less caverns — and some weatherworn and fantastic masses of rock studding the sands themselves. One of them is known as " Queen Elizabeth's Rock," and really resembles the well- known small crowned head and spreading ruff. The view extends from Trevose to the Towan. St. Columb Minor (Pop. 2067) is 6 m. W. from St. Columb, near the sea, in a valley W. of Mawgan. The ch. is late Dec, with a fine W. tower. In its vicinity are Rialton, which gave title to the statesman Sidney Godol phin, and the ruins of Rialton Priory (so called), which are now, however, a subject for regret, as they have been much mutilated with in the last few years. Still they are worth looking at, including gateway and well, behind the house. Rialton belonged to the priory of Bodmin ; and this house was built about the end of the 15th centy., by Thomas Vivian, then prior of Bodmin, whose tomb remains in Bodmin church. On the coast is the little harbour of Lou-er St. Columb Porth, where the traveller may witness the phenome non of a blow-liole, through which, at intervals, the sea is forcibly driven, when the tide is at a certain height. On the edge of the headland near a cove reached by a long flight of steps, is Glendargle, the marine man sion of — Vivian, Esq. Newquay {Inns : Prouts, good ; Red Lion), 14 m. from Truro, 7 m. from St. Columb, and 2 m. W. of St. Columb Minor, is a small but rising watering-place (1100 Inhab.) where the pilchard fishery is pursued on a considerable scale. It is situated at the W. end of Watergate Bay, under the shelter of Towan Head, a grand promontory and fine point of view to be reached by the path across Beacon Hill. The sandy beach ruus 3 m. E. Boute 22.— Newquay — Colan. 23 beneath a range of romantic cliffs, which are particularly fine at a place called Filorey between Newquay and Mawgan. The eastern side of New quay Bay is closed by an island, which forms the Trevalgey Head. It is approached by a wooden bridge across the ravine 20 ft. wide, which separates it from the mainland. On this island is the Blow Hole men tioned above, but it is seldom visible in action. In going or returning, the sands may be crossed under the cliff's, according as the tide permits ; but beware of attempting the sands with a flowing tide. A stranger may easily be caught by it. In a W. direction, between Towan Head and Piran Bay, the coast presents the following series of sandy coves which are girded by cavernous cliffs : — Fistral Bay, bounded on the W. by Bentire Point and the Goose Rock ; Crantock Bay, 2lr m. with the estuary of the Gannel, which fs little else than sand — the islet called the Chick is off the W. point ; Holywell Bay, so named from a spring of fresh water in a, cavern accessible only at low tide; the bay terminates on the W. with Penhale Point and the outlying rock termed the Carters. From Newquay may be visited Bodruthan Steps (7 m., no Inn), and St. Columb Major (14 m. see above). Newquay is the N. Terminus of the Cornwall Minerals Railroad, commenced by the late Mr. Treff'ry, which runs from one coast of the county to the other in a line from Par to Newquay, a distance of about 20 m. (See Rte. 36.) The neighbourhood of Newquay has much interest for the geologist. He may find a bed of fossiliferous limestone, resting on variegated slates, in the small island lying off Lower St. Columb Porth ; and in the cliffs of Watergate Bay a very excellent section of these slate-beds, and a fine example of an elvan (about 2 m. W. of Mawgan), which cuts the grau wacke cliff nearly at right angles to the strike of the beds. At Newquay the blown sand is consolidated into a recent sandstone, still in the course of formation, owing to the infiltration of water holding iron in solution. It is sufficiently compact to be quar ried for building purposes, and when ground and burnt forms an excellent cement, and has been used as such in Newquay pier. As a building stone it has been employed in the construc tion of the neighbouring ch. of Cran tock. The cliffs between Newquay and Trevose Head illustrate, in a strik ing manner, the destruction of a coast by heavy breakers. In Crantock Ch., which has Dec. and E. E. por tions, is a circular Font, date 1473. The ch. was collegiate. Trerice, the ancient mansion of the Arundells of Lanherne, is situated about 3j m. S.E. from Newquay. (See Rte. 21.) Rather more than 1 m. S.E. of St. Columb, on the S. side of the road leading from Trekinning to Belovely, and behind a cottage lie the ruins oi a cromlech of killas stone (the stone of the district), the impost being about 9 ft. in length, and of great propor tionate thickness. 2 m. S.E. of St. Columb is the eminence of Castle an Dinas — (alt. 729 ft.), crowned with an ellip tical doubly entrenched camp of 6 acres, which tradition proclaims the hunting-seat of King Arthur, who, ac cording to the legend, chased the wild deer on the Tregoss Moors. There are 2 tumuli within the area, one surrounded by a slight ditch. The geologist as well as the antiquary may find amusement in this old castle, for the alteration of slate by the proxi mity of granite is well seen on the hill . The Roche Rocks (Rte. 36) are about 5 m. distant in the same di rection. 4 m. S.W. is the village of Colan, of interest for its ch., which was founded 1250 by Bishop Brans- combe, but much altered in the Perp. period. 24 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro. ROUTE 23. PLYMOUTH TO TRURO, BV SALTASH, ST. GERMANS, LISKEARD (ST. NEOT'S BODMIN, LOSTWITHIEL (RESTOKMEL), PAR, AND ST. ACS- TELL — CORNWALL RLY. The Cornwall Rly. from Plymouth to Truro, and the West Cornwall Rly. from Truro to Penzance, now carry the iron road to within 10 m. of the Land's End ; but the construction of the Cornwall Rly. has been attended by difficulties of no ordinary kind. An estuary had to be spanned, and the line conducted over the rocky hills of a semi-mountainous country, and across numerous deep valleys. It was a Herculean labour ; but Mr. Brunei accomplished the feat in 12 years, and in May 1859 the Saltash bridge and railway were opened to public traffic In the short space of 60 m. there are no less than 7 tun nels, and 43 viaducts, of which some are 150 ft. in height. The railway, after quitting Ply mouth and N. Road Stations, halts at Devonport Station, and skirting Keyham, Steamyard on 1., obtains 1. a view over Hamoaze Anchorage, and is carried across a creek branching from it. On its opposite shore are seen the woods of Thankes (Lord Graves) and of Antony (seat of the Carews), the town of Torpoint,the St. Germans ricer, and the old keep of Trematon rising from a bank of fo liage. At Saltash the estuary is con siderably contracted and here the Cornwall Railway spans it by the Royal Albert Bridge. The greatest of the many diffi culties was to cross the Tamar, the boundary of the county, where its estuary was i m. wide, and im passable at one bound ; and where the water in mid stream was 70 ft. deep. The Royal Albert Bridge. This ex traordinary viaduct carries the rly. at a height of 100 ft. above the water from Devon to Cornwall, on 19 spans or arches, of which 2 alone bridge the estuary in lengths of 455 ft. Its total length is 2240 ft., or nearly |m., its greatest width only 30 ft., but its height, from the founda tion to the top of the tubes, 260 ft., or 50 ft. greater than that of the Monument. The estuary is here at its narrowest point, broader than the Thames at Westminster, and not to be spanned without the aid of a central pier. To found and build such a structure was the first great difficulty. The second was to hang the roadway.; for as a central pier afforded no point to which chains could be secured, it was impossible to erect a suspension bridge similar to the Britannia. The supports of the roadway must be made in a manner self supporting, and this Mr. Brunei effected, by an ingenious combination of the arch, the tubular girder, and suspension chain. The main chains which stretch from the shore to the central pier, and from which the roadway hangs, are at tached at the ends to enormous iron tubes, which in two magnificent curves bridge the estuary. Thus each tube gives support to the chain, and forms with it a double bow, or ellipsis. The chief labouis of con struction were to build the central pier, and to raise the tubes. Each weighs about 1200 tons, and to up hold such a mass of iron it was ne cessary that the foundation should rest on the solid rock. But to reach this was no easy matter. The depth of water was 70 ft., and the river Boute 23. — The Boyal Albert Bridge — Saltash. 25 bed, of mud and gravel, 20 ft. It was accomplished by means of a cylinder of wrought iron, 100 ft. in height, 37 ft. in diam., and weighing 300 tons, which was sunk on the spot selected. The water was pumped out and air forced in, and the men set to work as in a diving-bell. The labour was most severe, the excava tion being carried on under a pres sure of 3S lbs. to the inch, which produced distressing symptoms, and in one instance a fatal effect; aud although less felt after a time, when 40 men could work together with little inconvenience, it was gratifying to all parties to see the granite pile emerge above the surface of the river. Then commenced a series of very interesting operations. One of the tubes was put together on the shore, floated out on pontoons — each 50 ft. in length — and lodged at high water upon the bases of the piers, which were to rise simultaneously with the arch as it was lifted by hydraulic pressure. Each tube is elliptical in form, and constructed throughout of inch boiler-plate, strengthened inside by ties and diaphragms. It is 12 ft. in height, and 17 ft. in width. The process of placing the two tubes in position occupied from 5 to 6 months. The western tube was first raised. Twice a, week it was lifted by the presses 3 ft., and in the following 3 days the masonry was built up an other 3 ft. Thus the progress was 6 ft. per week, and at the end of each week the 6 ft. joints of the iron columns of the central pier were added. These pillars are 4 in number, octagon in shape, 10 ft. in diam., and 100 ft. in height. They stand 10 ft. apart in the centre of the granite pile, and are bound to gether by a lattice-work of wrought iron. Each weighs about 150 tons. On the top, like a capital, rests the standard, a mass of 200 tons, to which the tubes are bolted. The piers which carry the roadway are each formed of double columns of stone, braced together by a girder of boiler-plate, but the main piers on the shore are of more massive con struction. They have to share with the central pier the weight and thrust of the bridge. They are 190 ft. in height from the foundation, and of solid masonry 29 ft. by 17. The Salt ash viaduct is longer by 300 ft. than the Menai bridge of Anglesea, but it was erected at a much less cost, not more, it is said, than 230,000Z. Its strength, too, has been severely tested. Each span was subjected to a dead-weight strain, uniformly dis tributed, of 2300 tons. This amounted to about 5£ tons per inch of the section of the tube, but the weight of the heaviest train will be less than £ ton per inch. 4| m. Saltash Stat. {Inn : Green Dragon Hotel.) Here permission may be obtained to walk across the bridge. This town (Pop. 1900), anciently known as " Asche " and " Ascheburgh" — probably from some great ash-tree which once stood there ; — inhabited principally by fishermen, climbs the steep shore of the Tamar, and from the river presents a very striking appearance, the acclivity being abrupt, and the old houses hanging in tiers one above the other. The picturesque effect of this grouping is consider ably heightened by a variety of co lours, arising from a strange jumble of materials. The principal " sight " at Saltash after the Bridge is the View from the high ground above the town, where the roads branch towards Trematon and Callington. It is of great extent and beauty, comprising Hamoaze and its wooded shores, the wonderful viaduct, the arsenal, steam yard, and dockyard of Devonport, Mount Edgcumbe, the winding river and distant ocean. There is a sumptuous tomb to 3 brothers Drew in the old Chapel of St. Nicholas. This chapel contains Dec; and Perp. portions, and has a tower .26 Boute 23. — Saltash — Landulph Church. which may be very early Norm. The roof-bosses are curious. Among their ornaments occur the arms of Richard King of the Romans (son of King John and Earl of Cornwall), and of his son Edward, also Earl of Cornwall. The Mayor of Saltash is an import ant personage : he takes precedence of the Mayor of Plymouth. The Saltash corporation has jurisdiction over the waters of Plymouth Sound and its tributaries, and derives a con siderable revenue from the buoys which it maintains therein. The Roman road, proceeding west from Exeter (a branchof the Icenhilde Way), crossed the Tamar at this point ; and the " Statio Tamara " of the Itineraries was no doubt at King's Tamerton, immediately above the river, on the Devonshire side. The right of ferry at Saltash, temp. Edw. III., was granted by the Black Prince, as Duke of Cornwall, during his delay at Plymouth in 1355 (see Rte. 7) to a soldier who had been wounded in the French wars. (See Sir H. Nicolas' s Hist, of Navy.) Saltash is known for its fishermen, but more so for its fishwomen, who are celebrated for their prowess at the oar, and not unfrequently bear away the prizes at the different regattas. It. was an ancient borough previous to the Reform Bill, by which it was disfranchised, and has been repre sented in Parliament by Waller the poet and Clarendon the historian, who was its member in the Long Parliament. It first appears as a free borough, temp. Hen. III. Saltash, as commanding one of the princi pal passes into Cornwall, was fre quently taken and held by either party during the civil war. In 1643 it was the scene of a furious en gagement, when Lord Mohun and Sir Ralph Hopton drove Ruthen, the governor of Plymouth, across the Tamar, in spite of the cannon which he had planted in the narrow avenues, and of the fire of a ship of 16 guns. Ruthen had been pre viously beaten on Braddoc Down near Liskeard. St. Stephen's is the parish ch., and about 1 m. from the town. It has a lofty tower ; and a. fine Norm, font, in all respects resembling that at Bodmin. An old lich-stone lies just within the porch of the churchyard. Excursions. (a) Up the Tamar, as far as the Weir-head and Morwell Rocks, is one of the most interesting in the county. (See lidbk. for Devon, Rte. 7 ; and Cornwall, Rte. 25.) (6) [The old Church of Landulph, on rt. bank of the river (2 m. from Saltash by water), and opposite the mouth of the Tavy, is remarkable for contain ing the tomb of Theodore Balceologus, a descendant of the emperors of "the East." The following is the inscription on the monument : — " Here lyeth the body of Theodoro Paleologus of Pesaro in Italye, de scended from ye Imperyail lyne of y last Christian Emperors of Greece, being the Sonne of Camilio, ye soiie of Prosper, the sonne of Theodoro, the sonne of Iohn, ye sonne of Tho mas, second brother to Constantine Paleologus, the 8th of that name, and last of y1 lyne y' raygned in Con stantinople, untill subdewed by the Turkes, who married with Mary ye daughter of William Balls of Hadlye in Souffolke Gent, & had issue 5 children, Theodoro, Iohn, Ferdi- nando, Maria, & Dorothy, and de parted this life at Clyfton y 21th of January, 1636." It was of Thomas, 2nd brother of Constantine P., that Mahomet II. said, " he had found many slaves in Peloponnesus, but never a man but he." He escaped into Italy, where Pius II. allowed him a pension until his death. It FALMOUTH BARBOUR ,),vn FAL RIVER. TRURO TO PENDENNIS CASTLE j.*c. maker John. Murray, London. Boute 23.— Saltash to Truro. 27 is suggested that Theodore Paleo logus sought a refuge in England on account of the hostility towards the Greeks shown by Pope Paul V. aud his successor, Gregory XV. Some years ago the vault at Lan dulph was opened aud the lid of the oaken coffin raised, when the body was found sufficiently perfect to show that it exceeded the common stature, and that the face had been furnished with a long white beard. The ch. itself is of no great interest.] (c) About 5 m. from Saltash and 1 m. rt. of the road is Pentillie Castle (A. Cory ton, Esq.), a modern building erected from designs by Mr. Wilkins, and well situated upon the steep shore of the Tamar. A finely-wooded hill, called Mount Ararat, rising N. of the castle, is crowned by m. tower in which Sir James Tillie, a former possessor of this estate (died 1712), expressed a desire after death to be placed seated on a chair in his cus tomary dress, and before a table fur nished with appliances for drinking and smoking. It is further said that he was buried according to his wish as regards the place, but in a coffin. In the hall of the castle are a painted window (.a fine specimen of old Ger man glass, turned inside out by the carelessness of those who placed it) and a statue of Sir James Tillie, the size of life. 6 m. St. Mellion. — The Church (de dicated to St. Melanius, Bp. of Rennes, d. 490 — originally Dec, but much altered, restored 1862) contains some monuments with effigies of the Corytous, baronets of Newton Park in the 17th and 18th cents. The latest of them represents Sir W. (d. 1711) as a portly gentleman in a large lapelled coat tightly buttoned, and with a large full-bottomed wig. Against the N. wall is a good Brass for Peter Cory ton, d. 1551, wife and children. The mansion of Newton is still standing, and about 3 in. to the 1. In a farmhouse rt. of the road is a fragment of Crocadon House, once the residence of a family named Trevisa, one of whom, John Trevisa, chaplain to Lord Berkeley, translated the Bible, the 'Acts of King Arthur,' aud Higden's ' Polychronicon.' He died 1470, set. 86. This family failed in 1690, when Crocadon was purchased by the Corytous. Saltash to Truro. Leaving Saltash, the rly. is carried along the N . shore of the estuary of the Lynher or St. Germans river. On the opposite bank are seen (1.) the woods of Antony, seat of the Carew s, aud the ch. (see below), while on the rt. appear the red wails of the Castle of Trematon rising from a wood. It is separated from the church by a deep valley pierced by an inlet from the Lynher Creek. The re mains of this castle are considerable, and picturesque, as they are decked with ivy and encircled by lawns and shrubberies. The mansion, which contains some fine paintings, was erected about 1840 by the late B. Tucker, Esq., partly at the expense of the castle walls. The manor of Trematon was one of those which fell to the share of Robert of Mor- tain, half-brother of the Conqueror, and was afterwards held by the Valletorts, • — from one of whom, Roger de Valletort, it passed to Richard, the great Earl of Cornwall, and King of tUe Romans. It has since been attached to the duchy. The Black Prince gave it for lite to Sir Nigel Loring, who had been iiis com panion in arms during the French wars. During the riots in 1549 the castle was plundered by the rebels, who, enticing the governor, Sir Richard Grenville, beyond the walls by the pretence of a parley, in tercepted his return. The ruins, encircled by a moat, consist of an enclosing wall crowning the sum- 28 Boute 23.— Plymouth lo Truro — St. Germans. mit of a lofty mound, of the walls of the base court, and of a square massive tower at the entrance, pierced with an archway, which is furnished with grooves for a portcullis. The wall which crowns the "' motte " or mound may be of the 13th centy. and was possibly the work of the Valle- torts. The castle resembles Exeter, Totnes, and Plympton, in having no regular keep — the lofty mound with its wall answering all the purpose of a high aud strong tower. The mound is partly natural, and has been scarped. It commands a noble view, and was perhaps a British stronghold before it was " castellated." Strangers are admitted on week-days. Between the castle and the village of Tre maton is a wayside octagonal cross about 4 ft. high. [The rly. crosses a small creek at the ferry called Antony Bassage,\eai- ing across the Lynher to Antony, the seat of the family of Carew (pron. Carey— this branch of the Carews of Mohun's Ottery and Haccombe (see Rte. 3) has been seated here since the 15th cent.), bounded partly by this creek and partly by the Tamar. The house was built by Gibbs in 1721, and contains a collec tion of pictures by Holbein, Vandyke, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Kneller, Lely, &c The two Holbeins — portraits of Sir William Butts and his wife deserve es pecial notice, and are among the finest examples of the master in England. Sir William Butts was the principal physician to Henry VIII., and is in troduced in Shakespeare's play. The face has been slightly injured and repaired, but the picture is of great beauty. That of Lady Butts (dau. of John Bacon, of Cambridgeshire) is perfect, "a rare jewel in art, which has lost none of its first lustre." There is also a portrait of Richard Carew, the author of the ' Survey of Cornwall,' and a head of Sir Kenelm Digby, by Vandyke. A monument to the same Richard Carew will be found in the neighbouring ch. of Antony {see post.). A group of ilex oaks in the grounds of Antony, planted about 1725, contains perhaps the largest and oldest trees in Eng land of this species. Near the vil lage of Antony, on the S. shore of the Lynher river, is the modern Scraesdon Fort, a link of the mili tary works raised 1865 for defence of Plymouth. Tregantle Fort stands 1| m. S.W. on] The rly. to St. Germans passes below the woods of ShilKngham, the original seat of the Buller family (there are small remains of the chapel of the house) ; near which, on a point of land, 1. is seen Ince Castle, now a farm-house, but once a man sion of the Earls of Devon, and in the civil war garrisoned by the Royalists. Ince is a 16th-centy. house, and a solitary example of a brick building in a stone country. It was for some time a seat of the Killigrews, one of whom was painted with his neighbour Carew by Vandyke (the picture is in the Vandyke Gallery at Windsor). The house is a square with 4 corner towers ; and, saj s tradition, one Killi- grew kept a wife in each tower, neither of whom knew of the exist ence of the others. The Lynher estuary is crossed by the train to reach 9J m. St. Germans Stat. (7 m. by road, 10 m. by water, from Saltash, and a favourite boat-excursion of about 14 m. from Plymouth). {Inn: Eliot Arms.) This was from the days of Elizabeth a Parliamentary borough town (Pop. 2842), but is now important only for its Church, which is hidden from the Rly. but is of great interest in itself, and to be regarded with reverence as marking the site of the cathedral of the Cor nish bishopric from its first establish ment, temp. Athelstan, to its final union with the see of Exeter under the Confessor. In its present state JfohnJfurro/y, London,. Boute 23.— Port Eliot— Cuddenbealc. the ch. consists of a nave, flanked by 2 western towers, and S. aisle. The chancel and a part of the nave " fell suddenly dowu on a Friday in 1792." The N. aisle was taken down about the end of the last centy., and a part of its site is now occupied by the Port Eliot pew. The W. front, with its short Norm, towers hung with ivy and fern, is striking and vener able. The deep central doorway, much enriched, is Norm., but of late character. The N. tower is Norm. in the 2 lower stages, with an addi tional E.E. story, which is octagonal. The S. tower is Norm, in its lower stage, and Perp. above. In the E. arch of the S. tower stands the Norm. font. 2 Norm, piers remain on the S. side of the nave. Between the 2 eastern windows is a beautiful saint's niche, called the " Bishop's Throne." Here are also sedilia and a piscina. The western part of this aisle and its porch are Perp. At the E. end of the nave is a very fine early Perp. window of 5 lights, cusped, 3 stories high. Observe a very ancient " mi serere" stall, representing a man carrying a hare across his shoulder on a stick, with dogs in couples (it has been claimed as the earliest wood work in the diocese; ; and a pleasing memorial (designed by a brother officer, and erected by the tenants on the estate) to Capt. the Hon. Granville Eliot (Coldstream Guards) killed at Inkermann. The ch. has been restored. The religious house here was first founded by Athel stan (?) for secular canons, who were changed for regulars (Augus- tinians) by Leofric, first Bishop of Exeter. The ch. is ded. to St. Germanus of Auxerre, who is tra ditionally said to have visited this place — if he did not land on the neighbouring coast — during his mis sion to Britain in the 5th centy. The old churchyard has been incorporated with the lawn of Port Eliot (Earl of St. Germans). 29 The mansion stands on the site of the Priory, and one or two rooms of the old building exist. The housu is well stored with paintings by Rembrandt, Opie, Reynolds, aud other masters. The following are by Reynolds: — Harriet Eliot (mother of 1st Lord E.), daughter of James Craggs, Esq., Seer, of State. Edward, 1st Lord E. Ann £., his sister, married Capt. Bonfoy, R.N. Edward E.t wheu young, t length, Ditto, i length. Ditto, at a later period, i length. Riclwird E„ brother of 1st Lord. John E., another brother, Captain R.N. Edward James E., eldest son of 1st Lord. Eon. Capt. John Hamilton, R.N. Sir Josh. Reynolds. Large picture of Richard E. and family, 1746, the first painting by the artist in which several figures are grouped toge ther. Vitw of Plymouth, from Catdown, a long narrow landscape, painted H48, the year before Reynolds went to Italy. Here are also portraits of John Hampden (the only one known, date 1628), and of Sir John Eliot, ancestor of Lord St. Germans, and Hampden's associate and friend, painted a few days before death in the Tower (where he had long been a prisoner) in 1632. He was buried in the Tower, as the king would not allow his re mains to be removed to St. Ger mans. The site of the Priory was granted, at the dissolution, to one of the Champernowues. In 1565 it passed by exchange to Richard Elliot of Coteland in Devonshire ; whose descendants have since possessed it. Cuddenbeak {the wooded promontory), a farmhouse situated on the river in the position indicated by the name, occupies the site of the ancient palace of the bishopsof Exeter. The traveller will notice the Cornish elms, straight as arrows, which are ranged along the road-side near the ch. ; and at the extremity of St. Germans an old village tree (a walnut), so common in Devon and Cornwall, with the earth heaped round it as a seat for gossips. 30 Boute 23. — Shevioch Church — Antony. In the parish are Bake, a property of Sir Joseph W. Copley, Bart. [From St. Germans the ecclesi- ologist may visit the churches of Sheviock and Antony (S.E.), both well worth seeing, and return to Ply mouth by the flying bridge across the Hamoaze. The distance to Tor Point, where the ferry crosses to Devonport, is about 10 m. Sheviock Cliurch, dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, is one of the best examples of a 14th-centy. ch. in Cornwall. Tywardreth, near Fowey, resembles it. Carew gives us the legendary history of its foundation, recounting how it was built by one of the Dawneys, lords of the manor of Sheviock, whilst the dame of this Dawney was at the same time erect ing a barn ; and how the cost of the barn exceeded that of the ch. by 3 halfpence ; " and so," says our au thor, "it might well fall out, for it is a great barn, and a very little ch." Since Carew's time, however, the odd halfpence, and a trifle more, have been expended on the ch., particu larly in 1851, when the chancel was restored in memory of the Rev. Gerald Pole Carew, by his widow. It now contains painted windows, designed by Street and executed by Wailes ; and, in the chancel, several paintings after Overbeck, within circular medallions. In the N. aisle is the effigy of a knight ( Dawney ?) of the 15th centy. ; and in the transept a fine monument, with effigies, to Edward Courtenay and his wife, heiress of Sir Nicholas Dawney. The body of the ch., excepting the N. aisle, dates from the 14th centy.; the N. aisle was added in the 15th. The nave, aisle, and Dawney tran sept were restored (Street, archit.) in 1872. The churchyard cross, of carved granite, is a memorial to Lieut. GlanviUe, 2nd Bengal Euro peans, killed at Cawnpore, 1857. Trethill, i m. S.E. of Sheviock, belonged to the family of Wallis, one of whom discovered Otaheite. 2J m. beyond Sheviock is Antony {in East), situated on the shore of the Lynher Creek, which has here the appearance of an extensive lake. The church stands high, and was struck by lightning on Whitsunday, 1640, when 14 persons were "scor ched," but none killed. The view from the churchyard is magni ficent, and was greatly admired by J. M. W. Turner. To the E. the woods of Antony form a promon tory, and in the distance rise the Dartmoor tors. The Church, dedi cated to St. James the Less, is said to have been built in 1420. It has been (1862) well restored (W. White, arch.). Most of the windows are filled with memorial stained glass by Willement and others. The carved oaken seats are exact copies of those found in the ch. An old silver-gilt chalice f 1 6th centy.) is among the plate. There are monu ments to Richard Carew, author of the ' Survey of Cornwall,' d. 1620 ; a Brass for Margery Arundell, 1420, said to be the foundress of the ch. ; and a tablet to Captain Graves, R.N., who played a gallant part in the attack on St. Jago in the reign of George II. From Antony Church the traveller should descend to St. John's (f- m.) in a lovely sheltered nook, where is an ancient church with Norman tower. The terrace walk between Antony and St. John's commands noble views of Plymouth,] From St. Germans the rly. curves inland, passing 1. Catchfrench (F. GlanviUe, Esq.), (Catchfrench, "Chasse tranche," an old Norm. " freewarren "), and an ancient en trenchment called Blackadon Rings ; and rt. an entrenchment on Padder- bury top. The woods of Coldrinick (C. Trelawny, Esq.) are then passed rt. 14f m. Menlieniot Stat. (The PENZANCE TO ST IVES and LANDS END ][Boje*vyad Tregarag//Ol&- =~rji — A^zt^ !Tranno Bosahrt^L^I,,,, y^. ¦^fjBoslxr*' irrn Hit < V/' /? -js=f' ¦L"c2?*r /) I WheaLEdAyardS ITemdjackci, (hs&e TC v "^^fe! Br^J& JtiherlaJuLft A . Trffiadgwitht - vi rt#^ ^^^Jpfosca.wenfyjrc Paid f>orguarn0n ... \^ reenly^^Kys ^.LoganR1! ; ^""sunder to. Pedrvrrven, d^^ecaM^et^ J A6sd&todff°l - Zedo^ JriskZwfy' \^^-/f^^v^oan^ S \Fbrth gwar-rcb / , , Scale q j j -J__-^_-^^" Boute 23. — Liskeard : Excursions. 31 village is 1 J m. rt.) Omnibus daily to Looe, 7 m. Here is Poole Court, a long-deserted mansion of the Tre- lawnys, which served for many years as the poorhouse. The ch. possesses an ancient spire, of which there are few in the county. 1. of the station is the isolated eminence of Clicker Tor, and its jagged rocks remarkable for being of serpentine. On each side of the tor the rly. crosses a valley by a lofty Viaduct, that on the Plymouth side the most ornamental on the whole line. It is a beautiful piece of wood work, and a most picturesque object in connection with the richly wooded valley it spans. 3 m. beyond we reach 18 m. Liskeard Stat., anciently Liskerret, i.e. court on an eminence (the prefix Les or Lis — Welsh Lhys — indicated that the place was the abode of a prince or chieftain, as Lestormel, Lespryn, Lestwithiel, vulgo ifestormel, Respryn, and Lost- withiel) {Inns:* Webb's Hotel; Bell Hotel; Commercial Hotel), situated in an elevated but rich and well- cultivated country (pop. 4689). Coach daily to Tavistock, by Cal lington and Calstock (see Rte. 25). The monuments of antiquity in the neighbourhood are the objects of interest; the town itself contains nothing worth notice. At its eastern end is the site of a castle which gave Liskeard its ancient name. This is said to have been built by Richard, King of the Romans, and it was cer tainly attached to the Duchy. The site is now laid out as a Public Walk, and has, in the centre, a small mean building, now serving as a police station, but formerly a grammar- school, in which the learned Dean Prideaux and Dr. Wolcott, better known as Peter Pindar, received the rudiments of their education. A walk leads from this spot over fields which were once the castle park, and where a 'good view is obtained of the surround ing country, particularly of Caradon (i.e. rocky down) Hill (alt. 1208 ft.), cavernous with mines, and bounding the wild district of the Bodmin Moors. In 1643 a battle was fought on Brad- doc Down, between Liskeard and Lostwithiel, in which Ruthen, the go vernor of Plymouth, was defeated by the royalists under Sir Ralph Hopton, who, without the loss of an officer, took the enemy's cannon and colours and 1250 prisoners. Hopton then established his quarters in Liskeard, which in 1644 and 45 was honoured by the presence of Charles I. In 1 620 the town was represented by Sir Edward Coke, the great lawyer, and in 1775 by Gibbon the historian. Excursions. {a) A walk to Looe, along the towing- path of the canal, 9 m., which passes down a valley very prettily wooded. The canal begins at Moorswater, 1J m. W., and there communicates with a mineral railway, which runs a cir cuitous and inclined course of 65 m. to the Caradon Copper Mines, and of 8£ to the granite-quarries of the Cheese wring. Persons are allowed to walk along the rail, but it is a round about way of reaching the moor. Towards evening the produce of the mines and quarries is brought down to Moorswater in detached trucks, which follow one another in succession, under the control of breaksmen, and are drawn back the next day by horses. Moorswater valley is spanned by one of the longest and loftiest of the rly. via ducts, 146 ft. in height, and passing from hill to hill on tapering piers of stone and timber one-third of the height. At Moorswater there is a granite-cutting establishment belong ing to the Cheesewring Company, where the stone is carved by hand and polished by steam-power. The first object of interest on this walk is St. Keyne's Well {i m. E. of 32 Boute 23. — Duloe — Trevethy Stone. the interesting ch. (Dec. and Perp.) of the same name, which is 2J m. on the noad to W. Looe), a spring of rare Virtues in the. belief of the country people. It is covered in by masonry, upon the top of which formerly grew five large trees, a Cornish elm, an oak, and three an tique ash-trees, on so narrow a space that it is difficult to imagine how the roots could have been accommodated. There now remain only two of these trees, the elm (which is large and fine) and one of the ash-trees. Ac cording to the legend, St. Keyne (whose legend calls her the aunt of St. David of Wales) presented this well to the inhab. in return for the ch. which they had dedi cated to her ; and it is said to share with St. Michael's Chair at the Mount the marvellous property of -confirming the ascendancy of either husband or wife who, the first after marriage, can obtain a draught of water from the spring, or be seated in the chair. This mystical well is the subject of a ballad by Southey, which concludes with the following lines : — " I hasten'd as soon as the wedding was o'er, And left my good wife in the porch, But i' faith she had been far wiser than I, For she took a bottle to church." At Duloe, 2 m. beyond the village of St. Keyne, on a farm opposite the ch., and in a field, a gun-shot 1. of the road, are the remains of an an cient Circle of large upright stones about 30 ft. in diameter. The mo nument, however, is in a very mu tilated condition. A hedge bisects it, one stone lies prostrate in the ditch, five only stand upright, and three appear to be wanting to com plete the circle. The stones, which are rough and unhewn, are princi pally composed of white quartz, and one is about 9 ft. in height. Duloe Church has (1862) been almost rebuilt by the rector, assisted by the Rev. Thomas Bewes, who is owner of much land in the parish. Between Duloe and the village of Sandplace (on the canal) is a celebrated spring, sacred to St. Cuby (St. Cuby is be lieved to be St. Cuihbert), and com monly called St. Kiby's Well. Dr. Scott, the late master of Balliol College, was for some years rector of Duioe, and there, we understand, the sheets of the Greek Lexicon so well known as "Liddell and Scott " were revised. In the parish is the South Herodsfoot (silver-lead) mine. (For the excursion below this point, and for Looe itself, see Rte. 24.) (b) N. of Liskeard are many objects of curiosity which a person intending to return to Liskeard may most con veniently visit in the following or der : — The Caradon Mines, Trevethy Stone, Cheesewring, Sharpitor, Kil marth Tor, Cheesewring again, Hurlers, Half Stone, St. Cleer. The Caradon Copper Mines, at pre sent yielding a considerable return, are excavated in solid granite, and situated at the foot of Caradon Hill (alt. 1208 ft.), which should be as cended for the view. Trevethy Stone, or the Grave-house (Corn. Tre-bedd or vedd-) about 1 m. E.N.E. of St. Cleer ch., is a crom lech consisting of a slab 14 ft. 3 in. in length by 9 ft. in breadth, sup ported in a slanting position by 6 upright stones, forming a kistvaeu, or stone chest, and raised upon a tumulus. Another block has fallen within, so that a person can enter the enclosure, which is now used as a tool-house by the neighbouring cottagers. The height from the ground to the upper point of the table- stone, near which point is a small cir cular hole, is 13 ft. 6 in. This bole is beyond (outside) the actual kistvaen. At the base of one of the upright stones is a square aperture, from which the stone appears to have been cut to form an entrance. The Trevethy Boute 23. — LisTceard — Cheesewring — Kilmarth. 33 Stone is one of the largest cromlechs existing in Cornwall, and derives ad ditional interest from its elevated position, which commands the coun try for many miles. It displays also some remarkable features which have been found in certain of these crom lechs elsewhere. If the Trevethy stone is raised on a true tumulus, the deposit was probably made in that, and the cromlech itself was only a monument or cenotaph. The purpose of the hole it would be idle to guess at. The holed stone at Sten- nis, in Orkney, with its " promise of Odin," of which Sir W. Scott has made good use in the ' Pirate,' and the holed stone, the "Men-an-tol," near Lanyon (see Rte. 29), may be compared. A short distance W. of the cromlech the rly. crosses the foot of a down, which was formerly covered with blocks of snow-white quartz, of which many still remain. Cheesewring. This remarkable ob- jectconsists of tabular blocks of gra nite heaped one upon the other after the manner of cheeses to the height of 24 ft., but has probably acquired its name from its supposed resemblance to the press employed in the prepar ation of cider, in squeezing out the liquor from the cheese or pounded apples. It derives its extraordi nary appearance from the circum stance of the stones at the base being less than half the size of those they support, which are 10 and 12 ft. in diameter. Hence the shape of the pile is that of a huge fungus, with a stalk so slenderly proportioned for the weight of the head, that the spectator will find it hard to divest himself of the idea of its instability. ( There is not the slightest foundation for the assumption that the Cheese wring, or similar piles of rock, such as Bowerman's Nose on Dartmoor, the Toad Rock at Tunbridge Wells, or those on Ripon moor in Yorkshire, ever served as " rock idols." The suggestion seems to be due originally [Cornwall.] to Borlase.) A few years ago it was un fortunately discovered that the granite which formed the substance of this hill was of a superior quality ; a railway was conducted to the spot, buildings were erected, and the de structive quarryman is now at work within a few feet of the Cheesewring itself, so that it has to be propped by a pile of stones. By a lease granted by the Duchy, however, bounds have been set to the quarry, in order that this far-famed curiosity should escape the general havoc ; but the ground about it is covered with rubbish, and the neighbouring rocks, which add so much to the effect of the scene, are daily diminishing in their numbers. The eminence commands an imposing prospect. N . and S. two seas form the horizon, and N.W. Brown Willy lifts his head, and offers a landmark to those wishing to proceed to the Jamaica Inn. On a clear day you may see across Devonshire from Hartland to Plymouth, and both Dartmoor and Exmoor enter into the view. Several rocky tors are situated in this neighbourhood. Sharpitor, or Sharp Point Tor (1200 ft.), rises in a beautiful cone immediately N. of the Cheesewring, and bears upon its western slope the remains of those ancient enclosures called hut circles, and lines of stones. Kilmarth (1277 ft.), directly N. by W. of Sharpitor, and the grandest of the group, stretches E. and W. in a ridge which is nearly precipi tous on its N. flank. The granite heaped upon this hill presents the most fantastic forms, and the soli tude of the spot is as yet undis turbed. A pile of rocks, starting upward from the crest and W. of the summit, presents the appearance of a leaning tower, the upper surface outlying the base. 2 other hills, rising N. of Kilmarth, will strike the attention by the grandeur of their irregular outline. These are Hawk's Tor (the easternmost) and Trewarath 34 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro — St. Cleer. Tor (1050 ft.). Another of this group of tors is called King Arthur's Bed {beth, i. e. grave ?). Some hut circles, remains of avenues, lines of stones, and vestiges of ancient stream-works, may be found between Kilmarth and the Jamaica Inn, About 1 m. S. of the Cheesewring are The Hurlers, formerly three large intersecting circles, two of which have their centres in a line — that of the 3rd, or southernmost, is about 30 ft. beyond the others. They are of the respective minor diameters (they are slightly elliptical) of 1 1 5 ft. 6 in., 139 ft. and 100 ft. The circles are named in accordance with a tra dition that they were once men who, amusing themselves by hurling on the Sabbath, were transformed into stone. Hals, a writer on Cornish an tiquities, adverting to this legend, quaintly remarks, " Did but the ball which these hurlers used when flesh and blood appear directly over them immovably pendent in the air, one might be apt to credit some little of the tale ; but as the case is, I can scarcely help thinking but the pre sent stones were always stones, and will to the world's end continue So, unless they will be at the pains to pulverize them." It is to be re gretted that the possibility of their conversion has been fully demon strated, and that many of these un fortunate hurlers have been long since reduced to their original dust, or been cut in twain to serve the purposes of the farmer. The Nor thern circle consists at present of 13 stones, 6 of which remain erect ; the middlecircle has 13 stones remaining, 10 being erect; and the southern circle has 8 stones left, of which all but 2 are prostrate. Two large stones, perhaps the remains of an avenue, stand at some distance W. of the circles. The stone commonly called the Other HalfSton", in a field about % of a m. S.S.W. of St. Cleer Church, is a granite shaft of a cross with a broken mortice on the top, in which the cross was inserted : it is covered with the interlacing knot-work common in Cornwall and Ireland. The Half Stone is the base of this or some other cross ; it consists of a square stone with a very large mortice in the top with Doniert plainly legible. . What follows is rather conjectural, but it has been read Doniert rogavit pro anima. Doniert, according to Carew, is Dungarth, son of Caradoc king of Cornwall ; drowned a.d. 872. This occupies the whole of one side ; on the other are 4 panels, each containing an excellent speci men of the interchanged knot. In consequence of the tradition of a sepulchral chamber beneath these stones, more recent excavations dis covered a cruciform chamber, in a good state of preservation, but con taining no relics. The Well of St. Cleer, the Bap tistery, or chapel, by which it was enclosed, and an ancient cross, about 9 ft. high, form a group by the road -side, 100 yards below the church. The chapel was destroyed by fanatics in the civil war, but ap pears to have beeu similar in, size and construction to that which now stands by Dupath Well near Cal lington (Rte. 25). It was restored, 1864, as a memorial of the Rev. John Jope, 67 years vicar of St. Cleer, by his grandchildren. The well is said to have been once used as a, bows- sening, or ducking pool, for the cure of mad people. St. Cleer, 2 m. N. of Liskeard, is a busy place (Pop. 3931), situated in a wild mining district at the foot of the moors. The road from Lis keard crosses St. Cleer Down (alt. 753 ft.), a stony height command ing a fine view, and then enters the church-town of St. Cleer, so called after the founder of the order of Poor Clares, out of Cornwall known as St. Clare. The stranger will notice the tower of the Church 97 ft. high. Boute 23. — Golytha Bock — St. Neofs. the tomb of Sir John Beer, and, on the N. side of the building, a Norman doorway with zigzag moulding, now walled up. (d) Those who are fond of wild scenery will derive much pleasure from a walk from Liskeard, by the Jamaica Inn and Brown Willy, to Camelford, from which they can visit Tintagel, on the N. coast (Rte. 22). Golytha Roe/;, in the bed of a stream, J m. below Dreynes Bridge (on the road to the Jamaica Inn), originating 3 small but pleasing falls, is well worthy of a visit. The river Dreynes pursues its course from the moors through this beautiful wild valley till it unites below the rly. at " Two Waters foot" with the S. Neot river. The two united form the Fowey river. It is to be hoped that collectors (mis named botanists) will not wantonly destroy the ferns and other wild plants they may find,, as they are too much in the habit of doing. The name Golytha, " obstruction," is the same as the Welsh " golydda," and applied to these rocks it is perfectly significant. (e) The Church of St. Neot's, about 4 m. N.W. of Liskeard, has been long celebrated for its stained-glass windows. They were constructed at different periods between 1400 and 1532, and restored in 1829 by the Rev. R. G. Grylls, the patron of the living, after exposure to neglect and spoliation for 300 years, so that about half of the glass is new. The work is creditable, although completed be fore the days of true restoration : it has been executed with great care and expense. The 1 5 windows are known as St. George's, St. Neot's, the Young Woman's, the Wives', the Harris, the Callawaye, the Tubbe, the Chancel, the Creation, the Noah, the Borlase, the Motton, the Redemption, the Acts, and the Armorial. In St. George's are depicted the surprising adventures of our patron saint, viz. : — 35 fighting, the Gauls — killing the dra gon — receiving his arms from the Virgin — taken prisoner by the Gauls — restored to life by the Virgin — ridden over by the king's son — torn to pieces with iron rakes — boiled in lead — dragged by wild horses — and, finally, beheaded. In St. Neot's window we find incidents of a less stir ring but as marvellous a description, for the legend of St. Neot is one of the most fanciful in the whole calendar of saints. He is said by some to have been the uncle of King Alfred, and by others a poor shepherd, who first dis tinguished himself by impounding in a ring of moor-stone some obstinate crows which he had been set to scare from a corn-field. This " pound " is stillshown onGonzionDown,nearthe ch. ; it is a square earthen fort. So re markable a feat at once brought him into notice, and to establish his fame he retired from the world and became a hermit. A belief soon spread that he was specially favoured by Heaven and invested with a strange power over man and beast. Many are the wild tales of his miraculous per formances — as of his " holy well," which an angel stocked with fish as food for St. Neot, but on condition that he took only one for his daily meal. The stock consisted but of two, but of two for ever, like a guinea in a fairy purse. It happened, how ever, that the saint fell sick and became dainty in his appetite ; and his servant, Barius by name, in his eagerness to please his master, cooked the two, boiling the one and broiling the other. Great was the consterna tion of St. Neot ; but, recovering his presence of mind, he ordered the fish to be thrown back into the spring, and falling on his knees most humbly sought forgiveness. The servant re turned, declaring that the fish were alive and sporting in the water, and when the proper meal had been pre pared, the saint on tasting it was in stantly restored to health. At another time St. Neot was praying at this D 2 36 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro — St. Neot's. well, when a hunted deer sought protection by his side. On the ar rival of the dogs the saint reproved them, and, behold ! they crouched at his feet, whilst the huntsman, affected by the miracle, renounced the world and hung up his bugle- horn in the cloister. Again, the oxen belonging to the saint had been stolen, and wild deer came of their own accord to replace them. When the thieves beheld St. Neot ploughing with his stags they were conscience-stricken and returned what they had stolen. Such stories as these are represented in the window, and many more may be gathered from the country-people, who affirm that the ch. was built by night, and the mate rials brought together by teams of 2 deer and 1 hare. They also show in the churchyard the stone on which the saint used to stand to throw the key into the keyhole, which had been accidentally placed too high. (St. Neot was of small stature, and either this lock or another was in the habit of descending, so that his hand could reach it.) The Young Woman's window dates from 1529, and was the gift of the village maidens. It contains the figures of St. Patrick, St. Clara, St. Mancus, and St. Brechan — the last a Welsh king, whose 24 sons were all mis sionaries in Cornwall. The Crea tion window in the S. aisle repre sents Christ with compasses in hand planning the Creation ; Eve emerging from Adam's side, the green serpent, &c. In another we see the life and Ark of Noah, and the source of his fall, an empty bottle in the corner. In other windows are represented various subjects from the Old Tes tament, and in one the 9 grades of the angelic hierarchy. (The work and drawing in all these windows is very rough, but a rich general effect is produced.* In a former building * See the Rev. H. Grylls, ' Descriptive Sketch of the WindowB of St. Neot's,' pub lished by Parker in 1654, had been deposited the remains of St. Neot, which in 974 were carried away by the founders of Eynesbury Abbey, in Huntingdonshire. An arm, however, was alone left behind, and this was long preserved in a stone casket, which may still be seen in the N. aisle. This remaining limb was the object of constant pilgrim ages. Above it is an inscription sup posed to have been written about the time of the Reformation. The Church, a Perp. edifice dating from the reign of Edward VI., 1480, with an unusual amount of ornament outside, and a fine carved wood roof, like many others in Cornwall, has a K. Charles letter. (See Introd.)_ The * Tower, erected in the beginning of the 14th centy., is exceedingly beautiful, Dec. and well worthy of a careful examination, as good towers of that date are uncommon. The granite groining of the porch-roof is worth notice, and there is some stained glass in the window of the parvise above. Against the S. wall of the ch. is a fine shaft of a cross, covered with interlacing knotwork (it should be restored to its old situation by the churchyard gate). St. Neot's Well, in a meadow near, was arched over in granite by the late General Carlyon. It was in this well that St. Neot stood up to his chin daily, and chanted the Psalter through out. The old name of the parish was Neotstow, and it is said to have been in a ch. on this site that King Alfred was praying (during a hunting expedition into Cornwall) when a change took place in his life. (See Asser.) About 2 m. W. of St. Neot, in the parish of Warleggan, is Treveddoe tin stream-work, which is worth seeing, and is noticed in Rte. 21 . Warleggan Church is poor, but the parsonage garden is indeed beautiful. Tren- goffe \i. e. strong stream) in this parish well shows the favourite situa- Boute 23. — Liskeard to Truro — Bodmin Boad. 37 chimney-piece with the legend of St. Neot, designed by W. Burges. The collection of rhododendrons in the grounds is unusually large. lit. is passed Glyn, seat of Lord Vivian, in a pretty valley. tion for an old manor-house of 16th centy. There is a curious avenue of sycamores. Liskeard to Truro — Ely. The Rly., leaving Liskeard, crosses the valley of the Looe river at Moors water by a lofty viaduct (see ante). 3 m. it reaches 21 m. Doublebois Stat, where it runs parallel to the old turnpike, but on the side of the hill above, and cross ing the spurs of the hill by viaducts, the highest of which is 151 ft. St. Neot's, with its Church and remarkable painted windows, is about 3 m. distant, crossing a bridge over Fowey river, and passing through the pretty grounds of Treverbyn. S. of the line is Braddock Down, scattered over with cairns. The obe lisk on the top, above Boconnoe House, niarks the Battlefield of Jan. lt>43- 44. The scenery all along this valley is very pretty. The junction of the Dreynes river with that of St. Neot is seen rt. ; and soon after passing Doublebois station the little manor- house of Pengelley (head of the grove), called Treverbyn Vean {Co\. C. Somers Cocks), to which is attached a curious manorial service. The lord of the manor has to present a grey cloak {cappa grisea) to the Duke of Cornwall on his crossing the border of the county from Devonshire. This holding was granted to the Lord de Moleyn in 1543. The house of Treverbyn is the creation of its present owner. The dining-room is panelled with cedar brought from Bermuda by Admiral Boscawen ; and the timber roofs of the entrance hall (with Minstrels' Gallery), dining and drawing-rooms, were made from the teak of the ' Orinoco,' which took Col. Cocks' battalion of the Cold- streams to the East in 1854. There is some very good tapestry in the drawing-room, which also contains a 27 m. Bodmin Boad stat. at Glynn Bridge (the town is 4 m. distant ; an omnibus meets every train). Coach or omnibus daily to Wade Bridge, Padstow, Camelford, and Boscastle (Bodmin is described in Rte. 35). 1. is Braddoc Down, where the Parliamentarians were defeated by Sir Ralph Hopton in 1643. An obelisk on the hill-top, J m E. of Boconnoe House, marks the position of the Royalists. {Braddoc, Brit. " treachery," has been corrupted into Broadoak.) Probably the name of Treachery was given for some deed of which the numerous barrows or tumuli are the existing records, rt. is Largin Castle (see ante). Near Bodmin, Military Depot Barracks have been built. Leaving the Bodmin Road Stat., the railway passes on a viaduct the deep Tregear Bottom, which leads to the Glynn valley. The dell is a mass of foliage, and a very favourite haunt of the woodcock. To the N. are the Bodmin moors, and westward Hensbarrow, the Roche Rocks, and crested Helmen Tor. [From the high ground beyond West Taphouse, a lonely public-house under the bleak height of Five Barrow Down, are seen 1. the wooded hills and valleys of Boconnoe, one of the most beautiful prospects in the county. Nearer the road rises Boconnoe Cross, erected 1848 by the Hon. George Fortescue.] The railway descends through the valley of the Fowey river, with Restormel Castle rt., to 30 J m. Lostwithiel Stat. {Inns: *Royal H. ; Talbot, an old house, good — Pop. 1017), seated in the deep 38 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro : Lostwithiel. valley of the Fowey. It is fanci fully said to be lost within the hill; but the name is a corruption of Lestwithiel, the Supreme Court. This town is one of the most interesting in Cornwall. It was that in which the Earls and Dukes of Cornwall held their Stannary Courts, and where the elections for the county took place until the Reform Bill. The Church of St. Bartholomew has an E. Eng. Tower, surmounted by a Dec. octagonal lanthorn-spire, " a composition as beautiful as it is unique. The gablets surmounting each side of the octagonal belfry, though of a plain character, produce an effect of richness unsurpassed by any parapet." — E. W. Godwin. The fine Dec. E. window is of the 14th centy. The ch. was materially in jured by an explosion of gunpowder during its occupation by the Round heads under Essex in 1644. The Font is octagonal, and bears grotesque sculptures of a lion, a priest, an ape, and of a man on horseback holding a hawk, and there is in the N. aisle a Brass, Tristram Curteys, 1423. Near the ch. is the Duchy-house, a modern structure of very massive slate, but including remains of the so-called Stannary Court and Prison, which are in all probability those of a Hall of Exchequer and other buildings erected by Edmund Earl of Cornwall (son of Richard King of the Romans), temp. Edw. I. The windows of the hall are modern and doubtful restorations. Lostwithiel had been made a free borough by Earl Richard, King of the Romans. His son made it the sole place in Cornwall for the coinage and sale of tin ; but this privilege was of no long duration. The curious and picturesque Bridge over the Fowey dates from the 14th cent. The trout of Lostwithiel are considered very excellent. The Excursions from this place are to Restormel, Lanhydrock, Boconnoe, and to Fowey by the river. («) The ivy-mantled ruin of Re stormel Castle (Res or ies-tormel, i.e. the Court of Assembly or gathering — i. e. for battle: it is still often called iestormel) crowns a hill on the valley side, 1 m. N. Restormel, at a very- early period, seems to have been in the hands of the Cardinhams. In 1264 it was in the possession of Thomas Tracey, who married the Cardinham heiress; and it is recorded that he surrendered the castle of Restormel to Ralph Arundell, to be held on behalf of Simon de Montfort. The castle soon after came into the hands of the Earl of Cornwall, either Ri chard or his son Edmund. The latter certainly had it, and probably the former was the first to acquire it. It has since been annexed to the duchy. The castle is described by Leland as " unroofed and sore de faced" in the time of Henry VIII., and appears to have been a ruin in the days of Eliz. " The whole castle," says Norden, writing in that reign, "beginneth to mourne, and to wringe out hard stones for teares ; that she that was embraced, visited, and delighted with great princes, is now desolate, forsaken, and forlorne." Restormel was, how ever, garrisoned in the civil war by the Parliament, and taken by Sir Richard Grenville, Aug. 21st, 1644. What now remains is a circular, em battled keep, crowning the hill, with gatehouse on the W., and a projecting tower E.N.E., the whole surrounded by a deep moat. The gatehouse and tower may be (parts of them cer tainly are) later additions. Restormel is said (and probably with truth — since the castle resembles in plan those of Launeeston and Trematon — see Launeeston, Rte. 21, and compare what is said of Totnes, Hdbk.for Devon, Rte. 7, and Exeter, Rte. 1) to be the work of Richard King of the Romans, temp. Hen. III. It is beautifully Boute 23. — Lanliydrock House — Boconnoe. 39 situated, overlooking Lostwithiel and the wooded valley of the Fowey. At the foot of the hill stands Restormel House, residence of C. B. Sawle, Esq., but property of the Duchy. The road to this mansion is the road to the castle. At the farmyard behind the house turn 1. up the hill, and rt. in the field above, where a stile shows the way into the wood. In the drive through the park you pass Restormel Mine, which the Queen entered when she visited Cornwall. It is worked for iron, which is contained in a cross- course. (6) Lanhydrock House (Lord Ro bartes. T. J. Agar Robartes, Esq., M.P. for E. Cornwall, was created Baron Robartes in 1S69). 2^ m. N.W., is a granite edifice, mainly in its ancient condition, and was formerly the seat of the Robartes, Viscounts Bodmin and Earls of Radnor. Sir Richard Robartes, created a baronet and afterwards a baron by Jas. I., became owner of Lanhydrock in 1620. His son, the 2nd Lord Robartes, attached himself to the Parliament during the Civil War, lost and recovered his estate, led a retired life here during the Protectorate of Cromwell, was re ceived into favour with Charles II., became Lord Privy Seal, Ld. -Lieut. of Ireland, and President of the Council, and in 1679 was created Viscount Bodmin and E. of Radnor. He was the builder of the existing house, and a portrait of this favourite of fortune hangs in the gallery. (The title became extinct in 1757.) The N. and S. wings of the house bear date, respectively, 1636, 1642; the gateway 1651. The house is approached by an avenue planted in 1648, and contains a gallery 116 ft. in length, the ceiling of which is adorned by a rude stucco relief of the Creation. Lanhydrock was garrisoned for the Parliament in the civil war — (the head-quarters of Essex's army were at Lespryn, at the foot of the avenue of sycamores ; those of the Royalists, under Sir Beville Grenville were at Boconnoe) — and surrendered in 1644 to the king, who bestowed it on his general Sir Richard Grenville, but the Par liament restored it to its original owner. " Lanhydrock stands almost untouched, as if it had been buried alive since the days of the Puritans. . . . Lord Robartes, its builder, was a stanch Presbyterian ; and the library collected by himself and his chaplain — one Hannibal Gammon — stands on the old shelves of the long gallery as if its Roundhead pur chasers had been using it only yes terday . . . rare old tomes ... a large part seasoned with many a bitter MS. marginal note against prelacy and popery. . . . The avenue was planted under orders sent by Lord Robartes from London, when he had become Conservative, and had been clapped by Oliver Cromwell into the Gatehouse." — Quart. Ilev., vol. 102. The carved oak panelling in this gallery, its ceiling, aud the Flemish tapestry and cedar panels in the drawing-room, should be noticed. Out of one of the bed-rooms there is a hiding-room behind the panels. The. Tregeagle of the old legends was steward to Lord Robartes, and a room is still called " Tregeagle's room." There are some family por traits worth notice. The private gardens are very pretty. The ch. at the back of the house is without interest, except for a cross which stands by the porch. (c) Boconnoe (the residence of the Hon. G. M. Fortescue), 4 m. E., was purchased in 1709 by Governor Pitt, the grandfather of the great Earl of Chatham. It was the property of Lady Grenville, who possessed also the beautiful seat of Dropmore, near Maidenhead {Hndbk. for Berks). In the mansion are some good paintings by Kneller, Lely, and Reynolds, and a bust of Lord Chatham. Lady Gren- 40 Boute 23. — Lostwithiel to Truro. ville became possessed of this pro- party on the death of her brother Lord Camelford, who erected the obelisk in the park to the memory of his friend Sir Philip Lyttelton. This obelisk stands in a redoubt msde at the time Charles I. had his head-quarters at Boconnoe, and was the rear of the position of his line when the battle of Braddoc Down was fought. The Roundheads were posted opposite, with the valley be tween. After firing at each other for some time with no result, Sir Ralph Hopton went down the valley, charged up the hill of Braddoc, ut terly routed the Roundheads, pursued them through Liskeard, and took possession of that town. The woods of Boconnoe stretch far over hill and valley, and are watered by tri butaries to the little river Lerrin, A carriage-road, 6 m. long, runs through them. The little Perp. Church of Bocon noe is above the house, aud has been much cared for. On the com munion table of oak are the words, " Made by me, Sir Reynold Mohun, 1629." In Braddoc ch. (Perp. it is at the N. end of Boconnoe park) there are remains of old glass ; emblems of the Passion, alternating with modern arms, &c, and a chalice of the 15th century. {d) The valley of the Fowey be tween Lostwithiel and the coast is remarkable for some of the most delightful scenery in Cornwall. To view it to advantage the traveller should take a boat and descend the stream. In 2^ m. the banks suddenly open out, and the glassy reaches of an estuary are beheld winding to wards the sea. The most notable points are the Ch. of St. Winnow (Perp., beautifully situated and well cared for), and the romantic inlets flowing to Lerrin and St. Cadoc. At St. Winnow is a House of Mercy, similar to that at Wantage {Hndbk. for Berks). The distance to Fowey (Rte. 24) is about 7 m. Pelyn House, seat of Nicholas Ken dall, Esq., M.P. for E. Cornwall, 1$ m. from Lostwithiel, was burnt down in April 1862. [From Lostwithiel you may visit St. Blazey and its neighbourhood, proceeding either by road, 4 m., or by rail to Par, whence St. Blazey is 1J m. distant. (See Route 36.) By road, ^ m. rt., is seen the fine tower of Lanlivery Ch. N. of it are the rugged hills of Red Moor and (3£ m.) Helmen Tor (see post). At Red Moor is an old tin-work, with remains of (so-called) Jews' houses and smelt- ing-places. Several ingots of tin have been found here, and a figure in tin (now at Lanhydrock), 12 or 14 in. high, a rude representation of Moses. (?) It has Hebrew characters on the back and front, and 2 horns or rays projecting from the sides of the head. A lane and a church- path lead from Lanlivery Ch. to Luxulian, the Treffry Viaduct, and Valley of Carmears, and afford a de lightful, but circuitous, walk to St. Blazey. The direct road passes the abandoned works of the Fowey Con sols (copper-mine) (see Rte. 36). Lostwithiel to Truro. The Rly. now follows a valley, whose surface is turned up by miners' operations, now doubly deso late because the works are deserted, and brought to a standstill in many instances. The Fowey Consolidated Mines are situated rt. of the Rly. on a hill, 1 m. from St. Blazey towards Lost withiel, and command a panoramic view. They formed (when in opera tion) one of the most important groups of the Cornish copper-mines. The South Fowey Consols are still active. Boute 23.— Par— St. Austell. 41 34j m. Par Junct. Stat. (1J m. S. of St. Blazey), a busy and bustling place, Pop. 1768, where an active pilchard-fishery is pursued, and a great quantity of ore, china-stone, aud china-clay is shipped to Swansea and the potteries. Here also are the " Treffry Lead Smelting Works" — the only works of the sort in Cornwall where silver is yearly pro duced. The harbour of Par was entirely the creation of the late Mr. Treffry. The ores of the once rich Fowey Consols Mine (now abandoned) were formerly shipped at Fowey, whither they were carried on mules — a very tedious and expensive process. In consequence Mr. Treffry resolved to form an entirely new harbour at Par. The construction of a massive .breakwater, 1200 ft. long, gives protec tion from the southerly gales which sweep the open bay. Commodious quays are provided — besides a canal running up the St. Blazey valley (now disused), and the railway .(already mentioned) to Hensbarrow, Luxulian, and New Quay. Since the death of Mr. Treffry the con struction of the Cornwall Railway has brought Par into direct com munication with the whole " broad gauge " system. There is now har bour accommodation for 50 vessels; and the quays and wharves are tra versed by lines of rail in connection with the main rly. Par is the chief port of shipment for china-clay ; and there are extensive granite works here ; but the Smelting Works are by far the most important. These are marked by a giant chimney stack, 2<5 ft. high. Ore from silver-lead mines in various parts of the county is here submitted to certain smelting processes, which result in the produc tion of ingots of pure silver. The lead ore, looking like a fine dirty gravel, is first " roasted " in a rever- beratory furnace to drive away the sulphur and arseuic that may be pre sent. It is then melted, and the- silver is separated from the lead by the process of amalgamation. Par has long been known for its group of copper-mines, now worked as one under the title of Pur Consols, on the sloping hill above the shore. The mine is excavated in slate, and the engine, which raises the mud and water from the mine, is a very co lossus in size and power. The works are conducted on the largest scale, and may well be selected for exami nation by the stranger. The rly. crosses the canal and tramroad by a granite skew bridge. It skirts the shore and commands a pretty view of the bay. The distant cliffs are of many colours, pierced by green rifts aud chasms, and cur tained by shrubs. From Par a long hill leads to the village of St. Blazey Gate, on a lofty height from which the works of Par Mount and other mines are seen S. At Biscovey the road passes rt. a very good ch., mainly built by the late General Carlyon, from the designs of Mr. G. Street, and descends to a woody region. rt. of the railway is Tregrehan (i. e. " the granite-place "), the beautiful seat of Major Carlyon, in a park, covered with noble trees, but under mined in every direction by the works of Old Crinnis (a copper-mine no longer in work). A stranger, however, would never suspect this. On the rt., 2£ m. from St. Austell, a lane leads to a very pretty valley, where there are quarries in the limestone, tin stream- works, and china-clay works. One on foot might walk this way to Carclaze, and then descend upon St. Austell. The railway curves N. and reaches by a lofty viaduct 39J m. St. Austell Stat. {Inns: White Hart; Globe; Queen's Head. Pop. 11,893). This town (which Leland described as a " poor vil lage," and which has risen to im portance from its situation in the 42 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro — St. Austell. heart of a great mining district) has a place in history as having been taken by Charles I. in 1644. It is seated on a S. slope of one of the great hills, and is a place of some bustle from the continual transit through its streets of heavy waggon- loads of china-clay for the harbours of Par and Charlestown. It is an old-fashioned and somewhat gloomy town, but can yet boast its cheerful villas on the outskirts. The Church (ded. to St. Austell, of whom nothing is known (?) Augus- tulus) is one of the best in the county, and ranks among the few Cornish churches which are richly orna mented (St. Mary at Truro, Probus, and Launeeston). It was restored 1870. The chancel is Early Dec. (circ. 1 290) ; the nave and tower Perp. The font is of the Norm, type common in Cornwall, with 4 shafts at the angles, having masks for caps. The bowl is sculptured with grotesque birds aud quadrupeds. On the but tresses of the S. side of the eh. are represented the ladder, spear, nails, and hammer, implements and em blems of the crucifixion, but which pass with the vulgar for miners' tools. Over the porch appears an inscrip tion which has proved a sore puzzle to antiquaries, but is generally deci phered as the Cornish words Ry-du, Give to God. The Tower is richly ornamented with figures in niches, representing the Almighty Father supporting the crucified Saviour, Joseph and Mary, 3 saints or bishops, and the 12 apostles. With Probus this tower divides the honours of the extreme west, and is particularly no ticeable for its groups of niches, and the small elaborate decorations of its belfry-story and parapet. Harte (author of the ' Life of Gustavus Adolphus ') died Vicar of St. Austell in 1774. The Market-lwuse and Town-hall, ad joining the ch., are of granite, and spacious. By the entrance to the town-hall is a paving-stone on which proclamations are read, and (the story runs) a witch was burnt. But the handsomest modern building is the Devon and Cornwall Bonk, opposite the White Hart. It is of granite and marble. Another structure of some interest, but of a very different date, may be found in the valley, to the 1. of the Truro road. This is Menacuddle Well — i. e. maen-a-coedl, the hawk's stone — and the remains of its little chapel or baptistery. It is situated in the grounds of Mr. Martin, who allows the pilgrim to visit it. It is in a pretty spot, where the river tumbles in a fall (the wood which surrounded was cut down 1862). 1J m. S. on the road to Pentewan is Penrice, Sir J. S. Graves-Sawle, Bart., and near Megavissey, at a distance of 5 m., Heligan, the seat of John Tre- mayne, Esq. Heligan — i. e. " the willow-trees " — is one of the finest seats in the west country. The house, though extremely ugly, is commodious. In the gardens are some of the largest Himalayan Rhododen drons in the kingdom, and many sub-tropical plants and trees. Ad joining Charlestown is Duporth, the charming residence of G. G. R. Freeth, Esq. The garden is "a little paradise." (Mevagissey and Veryan Bay are best reached from St. Austell. See this part of the coast described in Rte. 31.) Excursions. See St. Blazey (Rte. 36). a. Charlestown, one of the largest tin- mines in the county. The name also attaches to Polmear, the port of St. Austell, 2 m. distant. b. Penlowan, i.e. head of the sand hills or " towans," 4 m. S., has a small harbour for ore and china-clay. The stream-works (formerly worked up the valley) have in some places been carried on at a depth of 50 ft. below the level of the sea. In the tin-bed were found the roots ¦ and Boute 23. — Carclaze — China-clay Works. stumps of oak-trees in their natural position, showing clearly that a con siderable change in the relative level of laud and water must have here occurred. Here also the horns of the so-called Irish elk have been found, rendered entirely metallic by tin ore, which had taken the place of the lime. Some canoes of oak, chained together, have also been found here, but were destroyed for firewood by the streamers. Pentowan gives its name to an excellent building-stone quarried in a fine-grained elvan, com posed of felspar, quartz, and crystals of mica, and remarkable for containing fragments of the slate-rock which it traverses. The harbour here is con nected with St. Austell by a railway, which conveys the china-clay. c. Carclaze, however, is the greatest curiosity — an immense tin-quarry, which, from time immemorial, has been worked open to the day (ancient implements — of course said to be Phoenician — -have been found here). The stranger will find Carclaze by proceeding along the road to Lost withiel as far as the Mount Charles public-house, about 1 m., and by then taking a road on the 1. to the china- clay works. From these works a cottage will be seen at the top of the hill. This is the blacksmith's shop of Carclaze, which is at the summit of a solitary moor (alt. 665 ft.) com manding a fine prospect along the coast. The view of the mine (now worked for china-clay — Kaolin — as well as tin) is truly astonishing. The traveller suddenly discovers an enormous ex cavation, about 1 m. in circum ference, and more than 130 ft. in depth, containing streams and stamp ing-mills, and a number of miners and labourers employed in extracting and dressing the ore. But the cir cumstance which renders Carclaze (the grey rock) so eminently imposing is the whiteness of the cliffs, con trasting with the brown surface of 43 the moor and the black coast in its vicinity. The country here con sisting of a disintegrated schorla- ceous granite, of the consistence of mortar, the mine has been neces sarily worked open to the day, but at a certain depth the granite be comes more compact, and allows of mining. The white sides of the quarry are marked by black strings of schorl, oxide of tin, and quartz, which, unconnected with any lode, but filling the joints of the granite, appear to separate the cliffs into rectangular divisions. By the de composition of the felspar the ancient granite rock has been reduced to a pasty consistence, and has crumbled to pieces, while the original fissures have been filled with mineral matter, which stands out in prominent relief. The view from Carclaze of the distant bay and in tervening wooded hills is exceedingly beautiful, and would alone repay a walk from St. Austell, but to enjoy it to perfection you should go to the remains of a tor at the eastern end of the height. From that point you will see Dartmoor in the far E., to the N.E. the Bodmin moors, with Rough- tor and Brown Willy, and N. W. Hens barrow crowned by its tumulus. 2 m. N. of Carclaze, on the E. flank of Hensbarrow, is Beam Mine (tin), which, like Carclaze, was originally quarried, but is now mined. Before the stranger leaves this neighbourhood he should visit the China-clay works. The granite Which he has seen in Carclaze is locally known as soft growan, and abounds in the parishes of St. Stephen in Brannel, St. Dennis, and St. Austell. It often contains talc in the place of mica, and is characterised by the par tial decomposition of the felspar. In some localities this growan is toleraby firm, when it resembles the Chinese petumtze, and, quarried under the name of china-stone, is extensively- employed in the potteries. This is 44 Boute 23.— St. Austell to Truro. ready for the market when cut into blocks of a size convenient for trans port ; but the softer material, which is dug out of pits and called china-clay, porcelain-earth, or kaolin, requires a more elaborate preparation, for the purpose of separating the quartz, schorl, or mica from the finer particles of the decomposed felspar. This clay is dug up in stapes, or layers, which resemble a flight of irregular stairs. A heap of it is then placed upon an inclined platform, under a small fall of water, and repeatedly stirred with a pi'igle and shovel, by which means the whole is gradually carried down by the water in a state of sus pension. The heavy and useless parts collect in a trench below the platform, while the china-clay, car ried forward through a series of catchpits, or tanks, in which the grosser particles are deposited, is ultimately accumulated in larger pits, called ponds, from which the clear supernatant water is from time to time withdrawn. As soon as these ponds are filled with clay, they are drained, and the porce lain earth is removed to the pans, in which it remains undisturbed until sufficiently consolidated to be cut into oblong masses. These are carried to a roofed building, through which the air can freely pass, and dried completely for the market. When dry they are scraped perfectly clean, packed in casks, and carried to one of the adjacent ports to be shipped for the potteries. Such, until re cently, was the universal mode of preparing the clay ; but the process is now accelerated by 2 important im provements. These are — the construc tion of the cisterns as filters, and the introduction of a machine by which 2 tons of the earth can be dried in 5 minutes. By these means a saving of time, estimated at 4 months, is effected. China-clay is largely used in bleaching paper and calico, and to give them weight and body, as well as in the manufacture of china and the finer kinds of earthenware. It is also extensively employed by Lancashire manufactures in adding weight to inferior cotton goods. It was first found in Cornwall (at Tre- gonan, near Helston) in 1768, by W. Cookworthy, a quaker of Ply mouth, and in some years has been exported to an amount of about 80,000 tons, valued at 240.000Z. ; but the demand has greatly fallen of. To the 1. of the road from Mount Charles to Pentowan, in a field di rectly N. of the woods of Duporth, is an upright block of granite called the Giant's Staff, or Longstone. It is about 12 feet high, and, tapering towards the top, is said to have been so fashioned by a giant that he might grasp it with ease. The Roche Bocks (Rte. 21) are 4 J m., and Hensbarrow about 4 m., N. of St. Austell. The summit of Hens barrow is 1034 ft. above the level of the sea, and therefore commands a view which will well reward you for its ascent. For Mevagissey and the coast W. see Rte. 34.] St. Austell to Truro. The Rly. quits St. Austell upon a long and lofty Viaduct. Several of the streams in this district run as white as milk, being impregnated with China-Clay. The railway from St. Austell passes farther inland than the turn pike-road, aud reaches 2^ m. Burngulow, a small Stat., to which a mineral rly. brings down china-clay and other minerals. 46J m. Grampound Road Stat. Omnibus once a day to St. Columb (Rte. 22), 9 m. across the country. Polkinhorne, the landlord of the Red Lion at St. Columb, will send a car riage to this station if written to in due time.) Boute 23. — Grampound — Probus. 45 [5. Omnibus and flys to 2 m. Grampound (Grand Pont (?) : the name suggests the pounds of Dart moor, A. S.pindian, to enclose), a vil lage of great antiquity, supposed to have been the Voliba of Ptolemy, is situated upon the river Fal, here only a small stream. It has been chiefly known in our times as a " rotten bo rough," so notorious for venality that it lost its right of returning 2 M.P.s before the Reform Bill, 1824. In 1620 John Hampden was first returned to Pari, as its member. An old chapel, now a market-house,and a good granite Cross, are the only curiosities ; but in the neighbourhood of the village there are no less than 6 camps on the Fal. One, of an irregular shape, is on Golden farm, 1 m. S., on the rt. bank ; a second on the St. Austell road, ^ m. N.E. ; a third on the Truro road. 1 m. W.; a fourth, of a quadran gular form, 1 m. N. and close to the 1. bank ; a fifth, called Resugga Castle, on the same side of the river, a little further N. ; and a sixth, which is circular, on Barrow Down, 1 m. W. of Resugga. Grampound is the near est point on the high road to Giant Tregeagle's Quoits, on the shore, about 9 m. distant. (For them and for Veryan Beacon see Rte. 34.) In Cuby Ch. at Tregcmy, 1\ m. S. from Grampound, is a Norman font of the Cornish type. In this village also are some trifling remains of a castle which is said to have been built by Henry de Pomeroy when Richard I. was in the Holy Land. Tregony was an ancient borough sending members to Parliament in the reign of Edw. I. Tregony is distant about 4 m. from Brobus Church (see below). Treux/rthenick (Gordon W. F. Gregor, Esq.) is a handsome seat on the neighbouring hills. 3 m. W. of Tregony is Buan Lanihorne, of which Whitaker the an tiquary was for 30 years rector, his remains being interred in it ; and 5 m. S.W. Lamorran, with a eh. and ivied tower of a priory, washed by the waters of Lamorran Creek, and opposite the ch. an ancient granite cross.] Beyond Grampound road the rail way passes 1. Treuithen {the place of trees), the seat of C. H. T. Hawkins, Esq. This old house stands on high ground, and commands an extensive panora ma of wild hills. It contains among other pictures a genuine sketch of Charles I. on horseback by Vandyke, of which there is a duplicate in Buck ingham Palace. I m. beyond Trewithen, 5 m. from Grampound Rd. Stat., is 1. Probus (Inn: Hawkins Arms), a village (Pop. 1353) situated on high ground, 305 ft. above the level of the sea. It is well known for its Church (date about 1470, but rebuilt 1862, except the tower). The: Tower is the loftiest and the most beautiful in the county, and bears a close resemblance to that of Mag dalen College, Oxford. It is a very perfect specimen of Late Perp., yet it was built in the reign of Elizabeth, when Gothic architecture had well nigh perished out of the land. It is entirely of wrought granite, and in every part covered with sculptured devices. The height is. 125 ft., and the angles are supported by but tresses which, as they ascend, di minish in size, and terminate in clus ters of foliated pinnacles. There are also intermediate pinnacles, which give extreme lightness and elegance to the structure. The ch. is dedi cated to SS. Probus and Grace, a married pair, and the front of the gallery, constructed of panels taken in 1723 from the old rood-screen, bears the following legend, which has, no doubt, a reference to the names of these founders of the build ing : — " Jesus hear us, thy people, and send us Grace and Good for ever." 46 Boute 23. — Tresilian Bridge — Truro. The 5th of July was probably dedi cated to these saints, as from time immemorial a fair called Probus and Grace has been annually held here on the first Monday after this day, and the following Sunday has been celebrated as a feast Sunday. No thing is known of So. Probus and Grace, but during the rebuilding of the body of this church, 1850, two skulls were found together, built up in the wall, corroborative of the tra dition of the parish that the skulls of the two saints were so disposed of. They were carefully reburied in the church, beneath the altar: The an tiquary will find the brasses of John Wulvedon (1514) and wife, with an inscription, in good preservation in the Golden Aisle. A font and pulpit in the Perp. style, and a small win dow near the S.W. door, have been added to the ch. as memorials. [Proceeding from Probus by road — to the rt. is Trehane, seat of the Rev. William Stackhouse. The road descends a long hill, and then tra verses a picturesque valley, resem bling those of Devonshire, to 2. Tresilian Bridge, where the gate house of Tregothnan (Viscount Fal mouth, see post) is passed on the 1. Tresilian Bridge is historically inte resting as the place where the struggle between Charles and his Pari, was brought to a close in Cornwall by the surrender of the royal army to Fair fax, 1646. We here enter the long straggling village of West Taphouse, and for a mile skirt the shore of an estuary. At one point we obtain an extremely pretty view down the vista of the creek, and of the woods of Tregothnan rising from the margin. We then leave the valley, and climb the last hill towards Truro, shaded by the venerable trees of Pencalenick, the seat of Mrs. Vivian ; Penair, seat of the late Admiral Barrington Rey nolds, is also 1. of the road ; and Poluihele, the seat of the old family of that name.] The railway, crossing several feed ers of the Falmouth river, reaches 535 m. Truro Junct. Stat., on a height above the town. Rlys. to Falmouth (Rte. 2C) — to Penzance (Rte. 27). Truro (Inns : Royal Hotel ; Red Lion Hotel : Pop. 1 1,337) is pleasantly situated, and is considered the me tropolis of Cornwall, though Bod- | min is the county town. It was elevated to the rank of a City, August 1877, by the establishment in it of the Episcopal See of Cornwall. It is a cheerful town, lying at the head of the navigable Truro Creek, which along with the Fal river opens into Falmouth harbour. Originally occupying a hollow where 2 streams meet, across which strides a tall Rly. Viaduct, its modern streets have climbed the steep and sunny slopes on either side, extending specially up to the Rly. Stat. The name Truro is probably from Tru-ru, the Three Streets. The Earls of Cornwall had a castle here. This building is mentioned by Leland (temp. Hen. VIII.) as " now clere down." Its site is marked by a cir cular wall near the top of Pydar. Truro stands in the centre of a min ing district, and largely exports the ore. It was formerly one of the coinage towns for tin. The vice- warden of the Stannaries now adjudi cates on mining matters in the 1'own Hall, a handsome modern Italian building in Boscawen-st. The Cornish Bank adjoining it, an edifice in the Pointed English style, has been erected on the site of the Coinage Hall. The very valuable Library of the Bp. of Exeter (Philpotts), given by him for the use of the clergy of Cornwall, placed in a modern Gothic building near the Bridge, was opened in 1871. The Ch. of St. Mary, in a square called High Cross, about to be con verted into a Cathedral at a cost of 100.000Z., by the combined munifi- Boute 23. — Truro : Cathedral ; Museum. 47 cence of united Cornwall, which sub scribed in one day 27,OO0Z. towards it, is at present a large but low triple- aisled ch., with an ugly modern tower and spire. The new building, .designed by J. L . Pearson, architect, in the simple stvleof the XIII. century, will be cruciform and about 300 ft. long, with central spire and 2 W. towers. The S. aisle and E. end of the old eh., enriched with peculiar aud abundant external ornament, including a niche for a statue at the E. end. (late Perp.), will be pre served in the new building. It is proposed to begin the construction of the choir arid transept and to await further funds. The Robartes Monument, a good Jacobean example in Corinthian style, 1614, its stiff effigies flanked by Time with his Scythe and Death. A monument, dated 1636, in the chancel, records the singular adventures of " Owen Fitz- Pen, alias Phippen," a native of Dorsetshire, who captured an Alger- ine ship on board which he was a ' slave, and carried it into Carthagena, where he sold it for 60t0/., and settled in Cornwwall with the money. Messrs. Lake and Sons, booksellers, in the Market-place, keep a good store of books and photographs, and sell very neat models in stone of the Cornish Crosses and stone monu ments. The Museum of the Royal Insti tution of Cornwall, in Pydar-street, is well worth seeing. Among other things it contains a collection of Cornish birds, including some rare specimens, as one of a cormorant strangled by a conger eel, taken in Looe Harbour. In seizing the fish the bird struck its lower mandible through the upper lip of the conger, and, being unable to swallow it or to disentangle itself, was, after a strug gle, strangled by the coils of the eel round its neck. H-re also are Cabinets of Cornish minerals and fossils ; a number of foreign birds, mostly East Indian ; skulls of the Ceylonese, and specimens of 2 varie ties of the elephant of Assam. Among the antiquities are some found in the neighbourhood, including portions of the old ch. of St. Piran of the Sands (see post) ; an ingot of tin dredged up near St. Mawes in Fal mouth Harbour, illustrating the mode of preparing the metal described by Diodorus. It is in shape a cube, with 4 horns, something like a weaver's shuttle, convenient for strap ping on a horse's back, or stowing in the hold of a vessel ; a block of so- called " Jew's house " tin, in shape of one-third of a sugar-loaf, cut through vertically ; bronze armlets from a barrow near Peninnis head, St. Mary's, Sicily ; and especially noticeable, two gold ornaments and a bronze celt, found at Harlyn, near Padstow, in 1863. These ornaments — gorgets or '' lunula? " as they have been called — are of great rarity. One, now in the Brit. Mus., is figured in Lyson's Cornwall; another was found at St. Juliot; and there seems to be one other instance of such a discovery in Cornwall, where alone in this country they have been found. Many have occurred in Ireland, and it is suggested that they were introduced from that country. Others have been found in Brittany, They are of very pure gold, with linear ornaments, zigzagged and lozenge-shaped. Their use, or the manner in which they were worn, is altogether conjectural. The Museum is open to the public on the afternoon of Wednesday free. On other days, or before 2 o'clock, the admission fee is 6d. This is the head-quarters of the Royal Institution of Cornwall, esta blished 1818 — a scientific society which has done good work. In the old house in Boscawen-st., or the Market-place, with unaltered front (now the Bed Lion) was born Foote, the comedian; Polwhele, au- 48 Boute 23. — Plymouth to Truro — Fal Biver. thor of a history of Cornwall and Devon ; and Richard and John Lander, the explorers of the Niger, were natives of this town. To comme morate the exploits of the Landers, a granite Doric column, surmounted by a statue by Burnard, a Cornish sculptor, has been erected in Lemon- street. Henry Martyn, the missionary, b. 1781, also a native of Truro; and Henry Bone, R.A., the miniature painter, born in 1755. A very clear rivulet flows through the town, and is led in streamlets through almost every street and alley. In the neighbourhood are several seats. On the London road, Tregolls, Robt. Tweedy, Esq. ; Penair, Lady Reynolds ; Bencalenick, Mrs. Vivian ; and Tregothnan, Viscount Falmouth. On the road to Helston, Kiltiow, Rev. John Daubuz; Kiltiganoon, T. Sim mons. Esq. ; and Carclew, Capt. Tre- mayne, MP., one of the finest gardens in Cornwall (see Rte. 26). Bolwhele, seat of the old county historian, is situated l£ m. N., on the road to St. Erme and Mitchell. In the town or its immediate vici nity you will find paper-mills and iron-foundries; and at Garras Wharf, at Carvedras, on the Redruth road, and at Calenick, on the old Falmouth road, tin smelting-Jwuses. The stranger can hardly choose a prettier walk than that to Kenwyn, 1 m. up the hill N. on the road to Nevvlyn, the temporary residence of the Bp. of Truro, where the neat Gothic Church (modern) and quiet ch.-yard. and distant view amply compensate the toil of the ascent. There is a good view of Truro also from Trennick Lane. Bail" ays to Falmouth on the way to the Lizard (Rtes. 26 and 28), to Penzance (Rte. 27). Omnibus to Perranzabuloe (Rte. 23a). Steamer to Falmouth by the River Fal, see below, a pleasant sail. St. Clement's Church, 2 m. E. of Truro (restored 1866), is beautifully situated on the shore of the Tre silian Creek. The Polwhele aisle (or transept) is of the 13th cent., and contains a monument to the county historian, Polwhele. At the Vicar age is one of the oldest of the Cor nish crosses : the following inscrip tion is engraved upon it in an ab breviated form : " Isnioius Vitalis Filius Torrid." (Borlase considered this cross to be the memorial of a Romano-British Christian of the 4th or 5th century.) It is a pleasant walk to St. Clement's ch. by Malpas and the shore of St. Clement's Creek. Descent of ttw Fal or Truro River. Truro to Falmouth by Steamers, from the Quay below the bridge, daily in summer — a voyage of about an hour, very pleasant when the tide is up. The Truro River presents some beautiful scenery, according to Queen Victoria, who visited it in 1846, and describes it as " something like the Tamar, but almost finer, winding between woods of stunted oaks and full of numberless creeks." One of the prettiest parts is at King Harry's Passage, across to the district of Rose- land, i.e. Rhosland— moorland — con sisting of the parishes of Veryan Gerrans, Philleigh, St. Just, and St. Anthony. (See Rte. 34.) Below Mal pas — "smooth passage" — a very com mon name in Wales, pronounced Mopus (2 m.), the 1. bank is enriched ' (1. E.) with the woods of Tregothnan, Viscount Falmouth. The house, built by Wilkins in the Tudor style, con tains among other pictures some works by Opie, and portraits of the great Duke of Marlborough, George Prince of Denmark, Queen Anne, and their son the young Duke of Gloucester. The road from the lodge-gate runs a long distance through the park, which is enlivened by herds of deer, and occupies a Boute 23a. — Truro to Perranzdbuloe. 49 range of hills bounded by the rivers Truro and Fal. The rookery at Tre gothnan is of great extent ; and the birds come here from long distances — even from the Land's-end. It is never molested. Below Tregothnan the Fal river joins the stream, and both shores are clothed with wood, that on the rt. forming the grounds of Trelissic, residence of J. D. Gilbert, Esq. Below Trelissic the river expands and loses its name in the Boadstead of Carrick, the main branch of Fal mouth Harbour. The Church of St. Michael Penkivel (Pen-kevil, = Headland of the Horse, to distinguish from many other St. Michaels in the county), near the 1. bank of the Truro river, a fine struc ture of the 14th centy., having fallen into decay, was (1862) re built by Lord Falmouth, under the direction of Mr. Street. In the tower is a curious oratory with stone altar. Inside the ch, several altar-tombs have been preserved ; brasses to Tressowith (in armour) and Trembras (a priest), also of some Boscawens, including that of Admiral B., by Bysbrach. There is a Ferry across the creek from Malpas to Penkivel. Lamorran (seat of Hon. and Rev. T. Boscawen) has beautiful gardens. Rt. opens out Restronguet Creek, into which the waters from Gwennap Mines are pumped; it runs inland 3 m. to Perran Wharf, where it is bordered by the woods of Carclew (See Rte. 26). Here on the shore stands the modern town and port of Devoran, connected by railway with Redruth. Rt. opposite Falmouth, the har bour expands to a width of 2 m., while inland it extends to the mouth of the Truro river, with a width of 2 m. Below the town, on the E. side of the harbour, the hills are penetrated by St. Just's Creek. [Cornwall."] ROUTE 23a. TRURO TO PERRAN PORTH, AND PERRANZABULOE. 8 m. N.W. of Truro. An omnibus- runs in summer to Perran Porth. The ruins of the Church of St. Piran, lost for 10 centuries, were exposed to view in 1835 by the shifting of the sand which had been blown over them. They are still interesting — indeed the site alone is so ; — but since 1835 they have suffered terribly at the hands of explorers and such tourists as love to carry off a so-called memorial of their visit. The eh. is situated in the parish of Perranzabu- loe, on the N. coast, and a wild, dreary road starting from the pretty ch. and village of Kenwyn, over the hills, leads to it. Berran Round (which may be visited on your road to Perran Porth) is situ ated by the side of the Truro road about 1J m. N. of the church-town of Perranzdbuloe, and, with the exception of the amphitheatre at Dorchester, is the most perfect relic of the kind in England. It consists of an area 130 ft. in diam., encircled by an earthen bank about 10 ft. high and 7 broad at the top, divided into 7 rows of steps for a standing audience. This " Round," it is conjectured, was used by the Britons of "West Wales" either as a court of justice or a theatre for the exhibition of feats of agility and strength, such as wrestling, and was , certainly employed by the Cornish \ of later days for the performance of i Miracle Plays, a species of composi- 60 Boute 23a. — Truro to Perranzabuloe. tion of which the 3 most remarkable specimens remaining in the Cornish language were edited and translated by Mr. Edwin Norris in 1859 (see Introd.). The Round is capable of containing about 2000 spectators. A pit in the enclosure communicates by a trench with an oval recess in the bank ; and this antiquaries pronounce to have been the " green-room," to which the actors retired. Perran Porth (an Inn, Ty warnhayle Arms), a small bathing-place in a sandy cove. For many miles in this quarter the coast has been desolated by sand, which, from time to time blown inland from the shore, has been slowly accumulated. Camden, Norden, Carew, and Borlase bear witness to its encroachment in dif ferent years, and the name of the parish — Perranzabuloe, or Perran in sabulo — is presumptive evidence as to the character of the district at a re mote period. (All this sand is blown in through a narrow crevice in the rocky cliff ; and it would appear that a few yds. of strong stone wall filling up this crevice would have saved hundreds of acres from destruction.) The arundo arenaria, planted to bind and fix the mass, occasionally a speci men of convolvulus soldanella, a thin, mossy vegetation in the hollows, and rabbits countless as the sands them selves, are the only living objects that enliven it. The ruins of St. Piran's ch. are about 2j m. N. from the Porth Inn, in the heart of these sandy dunes, and the remains of another ch. of less ancient date, and a 4-hole cross, are in their immediate vicinity. A direct scramble across the sands will be found laborious ; the better plan is to skirt them ; but the stranger will experience difficulty in finding the ruins without a guide. (The visitor should ask for the hamlet of Rose — the nearest to the churches — where he will obtain a guide. The district is a very puzzling one ; and the stranger who depends on his unassisted powers of discovery runs a great risk of leav ing without having seen the first ch. at all. The following directions may however be given : — If coming from the S., enter on the sands by a road near a farm called Gear, which leads northward to Penhale mine: In. little more than ± m. the road strikes a stream coming from a mine just on the 1., and, following it for a very short distance, the road turns to the 1., up the sandhills, the stream pre sently bending rt. and escaping from the sands near Ellenglaze. Half-way along the united course of the road and stream is a small green plain, terminated W. by a low ridge. The ruins of the ch. lie just over the S. end of this ridge. If approaching from the N., follow the stream up from Ellenglaze, and almost at once after it strikes the road you enter the plain just mentioned. The fol lowing legend is supposed to explain the origin of this curious little shrine. At the end of the 4th centy. St. Patrick visited Cornwall on a cru sade against Druidism, and, finding his efforts successful, returned to Ire land, where, consecrating 12 bishops, he sent them over to complete the good work. St. Piran was one of these. He is said to have crossed the sea on a mill-stone, and, landing at St. Ives, proceeded E. 18 m., where he settled, built his cell, and began his ministry . Such is the legendary account of St. Piran's settlement in Cornwall. He is now considered the especial guardian of tinners, and has from time immemorial been an nually feted by these people on the 5th of March. St. Piran — whose name may be derived from a Cymric root par = to raise, to dig — is perhaps, as Professor Max Miiller suggests, a personifica tion or "apotheosis" of the miner (see Chips, vol. iii.). The saint is said to have died some time in the 5th centy., and then, it is concluded, a ch. according to the custom of Boute 23a. — Buins of St. Piran's Church. 51 the Celtic Christians, was built over his remains. For about 2 centuries this building was probably used for the rites of religion, and anti quaries conjecture that it was sub merged by sand either in the 8th or 9th centy., but many years before the complete subjection of Cornwall by the English. After the sand had covered the first building, the 2nd ch. was in all probability erected, as near as possible to the spot consecrated as the burial-place of the saint, but pro tected from the sand by a stream of water, which experience had shown would arrest its progress. This edi fice remained safe for ages, and was considered in such security in 1420 that it was rebuilt on a larger scale. For another centy. the sands were held in subjection, but, the stream having been diverted by some mining opera tions, they were once more free to pur sue their desolating career, and soon menaced the building with destruc tion. Borlase, in the middle of the last centy., briefly remarks, " The 2nd ch. is in no small danger ;" and the danger at length appeared so im minent that the inhabitants were obliged to remove the building. In 1803 the tower, windows, and porch were taken down, and the ch. erected again at a distance of 2 m. The tra dition of the old ch. was still pre served, when in 1835 the shifting sand disclosed the long-lost relic; human efforts aided the exhumation, and at length the little edifice stood forth perfect as on the day on which it was overwhelmed. The ch. lies nearly E. and W., its extreme length being 29 ft. and breadth 16J ft. The principal entrance was on the S. side, a small arched doorway of pri mitive construction, surrounded by a curious cable-moulding, and orna mented with 3 heads rudely chiselled in a soft stone. It was unfortunately destroyed within a fortnight after the discovery of the building. The heads and a few stones of the moulding are now in the museum at Truro. (It has been questioned by competent au thority whether these heads, 2 of which terminated a dripstone over the door, are earlier than the 12th centy. The steps by which the doorway was entered are much worn. On the same side of the ch. was a rude window, within the head of which a stone was laid across as a tie to prevent the voussoirs expanding. The N. and W. sides of the ch. were dead walls ; that on the E. was pierced with an altar window and priest's door, which fell during the removal of the sand. The masonry is of the rudest description. No lime has been used by the builder ; china- clay and sand are employed in its stead, and in this the stones are em bedded without much regard to ar rangement. They consist of blocks of granite, elvan, and slate, many smooth and rounded as if taken from the beach or the channel of a stream. The floor of the ch. consists of a hard and level concrete. The altar was removed in 1835, and 3 skeletons were found headless but with the skull detached, not far off. One of these was supposed to be that of St. Piran's. The altar was afterwards rebuilt with the same stones and capped by a block of granite, upon which the name of St. Piran has been cut in early Roman characters. The old granite slab of the altar is thrown down, and the floor, at times, covered with water. In the winter the spring of St. Piran, its course being choked with sand, forms a small lake, and rises in the build ing to the height of 6 ft. The head of the saint was probably en shrined in the 2nd ch., since the will of Sir John Arundell of Trerice. dated about the time when that edifice was rebuilt, contains a bequest for providing the relic with a handsome niche. The present condition of the ori ginal structure is deplorable. The hand of curiosity has proved more ruthless than the sand. The round- e 2 52 Boute 23a. — St. Piran's Oratory — St. Agnes' Beacon. headed doorway is gone; the N.E. and S. walls are nearly level with the ground, and the sand is again gathering round the ruin. The re mains of a cell, in front of which were discovered the shells or mussels and limpets with fragments of pot tery, are barely to be discerned about 100 yds. to the S.E. The proofs of the high antiquity of St. Piran's Oratory, as the building has been called, are the absence of a font, the baptistery being at a little distance from the ch. ; the rudeness of the masonry, and the substitution of china-clay for lime ; the diminutive size of the edifice ; the scarcity of windows, and their construction ; the dissimilarity of the arch to Saxon or Norman models ; the insertion of the heads over the doorway, a pecu liarity observable in many of the Celtic buildings in Ireland; and lastly, tradition, which has always pointed to the spot in which the lost ch. of St. Piran was ultimately found. To the S. of this ruin a solitary Cross and a few stones mark the site of the second church, pulled down 1803. The surface is here thinly spread with turf, and the sand is fixed, but it covers the floor of the building to a depth of 19 ft. In the N. and E. it may still be seen in its naked deso lation, shifting with the wind, and traversing the hills in cloud-like masses. Around both churches the soil is whitened by human bones, their sacred precincts having been long used as a burial-ground. About 2 m. from the 2nd ch. stands the existing Church of Perranzabuloe, being the 3rd in succession. It con sists, in great part, of the materials of the 2nd, removed stone by stone. lt was consecrated 1805 and restored 1878. It contains the old font, a hexagon standing on 4 legs, but , certainly not Norman. St. Agnes' Beacon (called locally St. Ann's Beacon), alt. 621 ft., rises about 4 m. W. of Perranzabuloe, and is remarkable for a deposit of sands and clays, in some places 40 ft. in thickness, occurring at an elevation of from 300 to 400 ft. above the present sea-level. Sir H. De la Beche was inclined to consider it a remnant of some super-cretaceous deposit. The clay is extensively employed by the miners, who throughout Corn wall use a lump of it for a candle stick. During the French war a signal guard was stationed at the summit of this hill, on the look-out for invaders, and ready to arouse the country by a bonfire. Tiu-lodes may be traced along the sea-front. The cliff-scenery between Perran Porth and the Beacon is highly in teresting. Guarded by immense rocks of killas — the local term for clay-slate — the coast seems to defy the impetuosity of the sea itself. There is, however, no part of Corn wall where the destructive influence of the waves is so well illustrated. The slate is in a ruinous condition, and presents a perfect chaos of crags and chasms. At the Cligga Head, 1 m. W. of Perran Porth, bands of a hard and decomposed granite alter nate. An elvan issues from them, and may be seen on the cliff at several points until it strikes inland a short distance W. of Trevaunance Porth. St. Agnes is a tin-mining district, and distinguished as the birthplace of the painter Opie (his real name ! was Hoppie), who was the son of ) the village carpenter. Many of his productions may be found in the mansions of the Cornish gentry ; and the house in which he was born, 1761, is still standing, 2 m. from the church-town, on the road to Perran Porth. It is called Harmony Cot. Opie's genius was first noticed by Dr. Wolcott (Peter Pindar), when residing at Truro. St. Agnes' Ch. has been rebuilt from the plans of Mr. Wm. White, and is worth a visit. Trevaunance Porth, the opening of Boute 24. — Launeeston to Bodmin and Truro. 53 the valley, is a wild cove under the E. side of St. Agnes' Beacon. Re peated attempts having been made to construct a pier at this exposed place. A company of gentlemen (1794) erected the present structure, which is of granite, and cost 10,000/. 2 m. from the shore are the Man and his Men, a couple of the most conspi cuous rocks on the N. coast of Cornwall. The name is doubtless a corruption of maen or men, a stone. ROUTE 24. LAtTNCESTON TO BODMIN AND TRUEO [BROWN WILLY — ROUGHTOR, DOZ- HARE POOL]. We leave Launeeston by the Old Falmoidh road, which, passing for a long distance over elevated moors, the " backbone " and watershed of Cornwall, is one of the most bleak and lonely in the kingdom. It is, however, improving, and much changed since the days when a traveller could find on it "neither horse-meat nor man's meat, nor a chair to sit down." 3 m. rt. to Truro by Camelford (Rte. 22). 1 m. Holloway (Holy-way) Cross, where one of the ancient crosses stands near the turnpike. It displays the usual type of Cornish cross — a circular disk of granite, with a cross on it in low relief, standing on a short flattened shaft. J m. The road passes the Inny, a tributary to the Tamar. On its wild, granite-strewn banks in the parish of St. Clether are remains of a little chapel over Basil's Well, a spring which rises under the altar. Basil, now a farm, was the ancient seat of the Trevelyans, one of whom, says the tradition, fortified himself in his manor-house here against the sheriff seeking to arrest him for debt. The sheriff, having in vain tried gentler measures, ordered an attack on the house by his javelin men. But Trevelyan, appearing above the court wall, intimated that he pos sessed javelin men of his own, and caused half-a-dozen hives of bees to be flung among the assailants, who disappeared immediately. 3 m. Fivelanes. rt. I5 m. Alternon, one of the most extensive but barren parishes in Cornwall. Its chief pro duce is said to be water, It is named from St. Non or Nonna, the mother of St. David. The church is ded. to her, and she had a small chapel here, licensed by Bp. Stafford in 1400. The Church, which is fine, is chiefly Perp., but has Norm, and later portions. The tower, 110 ft. high, of 3 stages, is perhaps Trans.- Norm. to the 2nd stage: the rest of the 15th centy. There is a very fine W. arch. The seat ends bear date 15o0 — " Robert Dawe, maker of this worke." The screen is com plete. A railing, date 1684, ex tends across both aisles and chancel. St. Non's Well here was formerly of great reputfe as a cure for madness. The water running from it, says Carew (' Survey 'of Cornwall,' writ ten temp. Eliz.), fell into a square walled plot, which might be filled to any depth desired. " Upon this wall was the frantic person put to stand, his back towards the pool, and from thence, with a sudden blow in Boute 24. — Launeeston to Bodmin and Truro. the breast, tumbled headlong into the pond ; where a strong fellow, pro vided for the nonce, took him and tossed him up aud down, alongst and athwart the water, till the patient, by foregoing his strength, had somewhat forgot his fury. Then he was con veyed to the church and certain masses said over him.'' (The well of St. Cleer (Rte. 23) was used in a similar manner. There is another St. Non's well in the par. of Pelynt (Rte. 24). Trelawne, in the parish of Alternon, was the cradle of the Trelawneys, who afterwards became the owners of another Trelawne in the parish of Pelynt, now the family seat (see Rte. 24). It is possible that the second St. Non's well may have been due to this migration. (3 m. N. of Alternon is the church of Laneast, standing under the ridge of Laneast Down. It has E. E. portions (nave and transept), with a lofty W. tower. There is a "holy well " at Laneast.) \ m. Trewint (Corn, "white place"). 1 m. beyond this village the traveller rises into the Bodmin Moors — high lands of granite, which extend to within 4 m. of the county town. Con siderable portions of this district, and especially the valleys, have of late years been enclosed and brought under the plough ; yet much remains to interest those who are fond of wild scenery. For many miles the waste stretches forth its tinted hills in one expanded scene of sterility, whilst in various directions rise soli tary cams, which, heaped with granite, show apparently all that the moor possesses of value. A mineral trea sure is, however, extracted from the valleys, which, during the course of ages, have been silted up by disinte grated granite, throughout which is disseminated a considerable quantity of tin. The traveller will find every bottom, as the Cornish term their valleys, furrowed by stream-works, most of which have long since been abandoned : few are now in activity. The road crosses the Fowey river (here a mere streamlet), descending from its source on Brown Willy, about 1 m. before reaching 3 m. The Jamaica Inn, hitherto a solitary half-way house, but now likely to be centred in a village, as a ch., parsonage, and school, have been erected here by Mr. Rodd, of Tre- bartha Hall, the proprietor of the land ; — establishments hailed with much satisfaction by the moor-men, who declare that their children " are quite mountainerers, wildings, wild asses, and transgress." This inn is frequented by sportsmen in the winter, and affords somewhat rude accom modation. On a small farm in its vicinity, in the occupation of his fa ther, was born the astronomer Adams, so justly celebrated for the discovery of the planet Neptune. It is in the parish of Laneast. [From the Jamaica Inn the tourist may conveniently visit the hills of Brown Willy and Roughtor ; the romantic valleys of Hanter-Gantick and Hannon ; and Dozmare Pool, among the wild hills to the S. {a) The 2 Cornish mountains, Brown Willy — a corruption of Bron, abreast; Wella, a beacon (Cornish: Bron, though literally a breast, is used to signify a hill so shaped ; Bronwelli, a look-out hill) — and Roughtor, pronounced Rowtor, of the respective heights of 1380 and 1296 ft., are situated about 3 m. N. of the inn. An excursion to their summits offers a rich treat to those fond of such adventures; but a pocket compass should be taken, as these elevated moors are fre quently enveloped in mists, which give no warning of their approach, and limit the view to a circle of a few yards. Deep bogs — of which there is a formidable specimen N.W. of Roughtor — may be entered under Boute 24. — Brown Willy — Boughtor. suck circumstances, from which the traveller will find a difficulty in extricating himself. Brown Willy, separated from the Jamaica Inn by a hill called Tober or Tiro Barrows (alt. 1122 ft.), is a ridge lying a few points E. of N. and W. of S., parallel with Roughtor, and marked by 4 distinct hummocks. Both hills rise from a granite district, and are themselves of granite ; but the granite of Brown WTilly is almost surrounded by green stone. In a comparison of the 2 mountains, Brown Willy may be designated as the more beautiful, Roughtor the more imposing, the latter being literally covered by a mass of shattered rocks. Immediately under Brown Willy, to the S.W., a bottom is occupied by a large stream- work, in which the traveller may witness the operation of streaming for tin. The crest of the ridge is roughened by masses of granite, which, fashioned in squarer forms than those on Roughtor, give an ap pearance of less irregularity to the outline. The summit, crowned by a pile of stones, commands a view ex tending into Somerset and to remote parts of Devon and Cornwall. The superb height of Roughtor rises close at hand, out of the solitary waste which stretches northwards from Roughtor and Brown Willy. Under the E. side of the hill lies a small pool of water, called Fowey Well, as the source of the river Fowey, and S-W. the rocky eminence of Garrah, 1060 ft. above the level of the sea. (On the slopes of this hill are numerous hut-circles, with small oblong enclosures marked out by rude stone fences. The hill is ribbed by these fences, the plots within which are too small for pasturage, and may have been used as folds ( compare the settlements on Kestor, Hdbk. for Devon, Rte. 8). Near the modern cottage on Garrah is a modem beehive, formed of unhewn blocks of granite, rising to about 5 ft. The roof is formed by overlapping stones, aud 55 is covered externally by turves. There is a wooden door square- headed. The whole is very curious as an illustration of what may pos sibly be a long-continued architec tural tradition, i m. N.E. from Garrah, near the foot of Roughtor, is a circle of stones 43 yds. in diam. There are about 50 stones, none very large. 1 m. S.W. from Garrah is the quadrangular enclosure, 50 yds. by 20, known as Arthur's Hall. It con sists of an earthen embankment, inside which is a row of large un hewn stones set on end. Many of the stones lie prostrate, apparently pressed inward by the embankment, which is now 9 or 10 ft. above the inner level. Two posts on one side mark the entrance. In the centre is a pool of water. The purpose of this curious enclosure is quite un certain, — hut it may perhaps have been sepulchral. There is a local tradition that it was in early times a Christian church. An ancient road or trackway passes close by Arthur's Hall, and by the foot of Roughtor, and by " Trevillian's Gate," to Warbstow, where are large entrench ments (see Rte. 22). A valley, now partly cultivated, separates this mountain from Roughtor, which should certainly be ascended for a nearer view of the enormous cams of granite, which, covering it on all sides, give a ruggedness to its outline even when viewed at a dis tance of 30 m. They consist of some of the largest blocks in Cornwall, lodged one upon the other in very cu rious and critical positions, and at the summit weathered into spheroidal masses, which strikingly illustrate the decomposition of granite, and exhibit on their upper surfaces a network of those irregular cavities called rock basins. On the most easterly of the two peaks of the hill (which is in the parish of Simonward) are traces of a chapel dedicated to St. Michael (licensed 1371). No hill in Devon or Cornwall can be matched 56 Boute 24. — Launeeston to Truro. for magnificence with Roughtor, which ought surely to be pre served from the quarryman, as the grand feature of the county. The red lichen Lecanora perella is found in the caverns and crevices, and col lected for the purposes of a dye. In the barren valley, under the N.W. side of the hill, are a number of those circular enclosures, or hut-circles, so common on Dartmoor; and near the bank of the stream a monument of unhewn granite, which strikes the attention from the loneliness of the surrounding hills. It bears an in scription and marks the scene of a sanguinary murder. Not far from this monument, and W. of Roughtor, a china-clay mine is in operation. Upon a low eminence, immediately W. of Roughtor, lies a logon stone, about 2 ft. in thickness, 10 in length, and 6 in breadth. The upper sur face is flat, aud the ponderous mass is moved by a push, or by the weight of a person stepping upon it. So perfect is the balance, that the oscillation continues for some se conds after the stone has been set in motion. Accident appears to have had the greatest share in produc ing these effects, as the block has been evidently curtailed at its eastern extremity by the operation of pooling. (6) The traveller may hence extend his excursion to Hanter-Gantick (i.e. "Hender," ancient; "Gantic," open ing), sometimes designated the Cor nish Valley of Rocks, — or to Hannon Valley, from the sides of which rise 2 isolated crags, known as the Devil's Jump. The former is situated some 5 m. down the Lank (Du — or Black Lank), a stream which flows S.W. and between Rowtor and Brown Willy ; the latter about 2 J m. down a tributary of the Camel, which, run ning in a similar direction, is to be found on the N.W. side of Roughtor. Between " Devil's Jump " and Roughtor there is a very good stone circle on Stannon Down. Hanter-Gantick is also 1 m. S. of the church-town of St. Breward* or Simon Ward, as it is commonly called. It is a deep romantic val ley, desolated by rocks of granite, which, shaped by the elements into cubes, cover the slopes and lie heap ed together by hundreds on the ad jacent heights. It was a scene befitting the genius of a Salvator, and one of the most extraordinary of its kind in the country. The declivity of the higher part of the valley is abrupt, and here the stream thun ders through the obstruction in a series of cascades. A descent to its banks even now will repay the labour, although a ladder is almost required in the passage from stone to stone, and a thick growth of brake offers addi tional impediments. A few years ago Hanter-Gantick was as solitary as it is wild, but it is now the site of granite-works, which have greatly extended and are gradually spoiling the scene. Indeed it may be said that its finest features have already disappeared. Between it and Wen- ford Bridge is the hamlet of Lank (" Lank," a young place) ; and on Lank Down the Lank Bocks, 2 earns of granite, which are called by the country people the King's and Queen's Houses. Roughtor (not Brown Willy) is in the parish of St. Breward or " Simonward." Of St. Breward, or Bruered, to whom the ch. is ded. nothing is known. The parish is not mentioned in Domesday, but was included in the great manor of Ha- matathy, one of the lords of which (probably a Peverell) founded the Church. This, before the end of the 13th cent, was transferred to the Bp. of Exeter. It is Norm, (walls of nave and chancel, low massive piers N. side, and font, which is of very peculiar form), Dec. (transept), and Perp. (tower, S. porch, and S. aisle). The whole was restored (St. Aubyn, architect) in 1864. The E. window of the chancel is modern. On a Boute 24. — Hannon Valley — Bozmare Pool. 57 partition wall in the enclosure of the national schools is set up the head of a very fine Cross of the usual Cornish type, but of late and rich work. The sculptured figure of a deacon is built into the wall over the doorway. The name Simonward is perhaps a relic of the Saxon Sigmund (see Handbook for Devon, Rtes. 1 and 18), whose name is found in similar wild districts. Simonward may have been the "mark" or boundary of some early Saxon settle ment. It has also been suggested that it is a corruption of " St. Bruered." (c) Hannon (i. e. " Half-way ") Valley is situated about 1 m. W. of the church of Advent (S. Tane locally, see Rte. 22), and through it the streams rising N. of Roughtor discharge their waters into the Camel. A thunder-storm, falling with un usual violence in the summer of 1847, principally upon the high land W. of Roughtor, occasioned a flood in the Camel, which swept away many of the bridges, and destroyed a large amount of property on its banks. The bed of this valley was ripped open by the accumulated waters, and the stream now flows between white banks of granite and quartz, varied by the intrusion of rocks of a dif ferent character. From the sides of the lower part of the valley rise the crags which are known as the Devil's Jump. That on the 1. bank, when seen from beneath, re sembles a tower about 50 ft. in height. In the bed of the stream, immediately below this rock, lies a block of a white crystalline stone, about 24 ft. in length, by 8 in breadth, which, abutting upon a deep and clear pool, would seem to have been expressly placed there to serve the purposes of the bather. At the extremity of this valley a solitary tree will be seen standing amid ruins occasioned by the flood. Nothing in Cornwall exceeds in beauty the walk (though rather a rough one) between the Devil's Jump and Wenford Bridge. It is a great treat for a botanist, a fisherman, or an artist, who will meet with as phodels, bog pimpernels, sundew, sphagnums, ferns of many sorts, with trout and peal, and some very pretty sceuery. From Wenford Bridge there is a rly. passing by Bodmin to Wade- bridge ; but passengers are conveyed only between the two last-named places. {d) 1 J m. S. of the Jamaica Inn lies Dozmare Pool (pronounced Dosmery) — i.e. " Dos," a drop ; Mor and Mari, the sea ; from the old tradition that it was tidal — 890 ft. above the sea, a melancholy sheet of water, about 1 m. in circumf., and from 4 to 5 ft. in depth. The lofty hill, called Brown or Bron Gilly — Bron Gilla, a secluded hill or breast — 1386 ft, the highest hill in Cornwall (see above), is the mark by which the traveller can direct his course. On the N. side of Bron Gilly are the remains of an ancient village, probably of tinners or streamers, as they are locally called. Below this the pool is situated, on a tableland which borders the deep vale of the Fowey. The pool is the theme of many a marvellous tale, in which the peasants most im plicitly believe. It is said to be unfathomable, and the resort of evil spirits. Begirt by dreary hills, it presents an aspect of utter gloom and desolation ; and is said to have supplied some features for the " middle meer" in the Laureate's ' Morte d' Arthur,' into which Sir Bedivere at last flung Excalibur, having twice before concealed the " great brand " " There in the many-knotted waterflags That whistled stiff aud dry about the marge." The country people represent the pool as haunted by an unearthly visitant, a 58 Boute 24. — Launeeston to Bodmin. grim giant of the name of Tregeagle, who, it is said, may be heard howling here when wintry storms sweep the moors. He is condemned to the melan choly task of emptying the pool with a limpet-shell, and is continually howl ing in despair at the hopelessness of his labour. Occasionally, too, it is said this miserable monster is hunted by the devil round and about the tarn, when he flies to the Roche Rocks, some 15 m. distant, and, by thrusting his head in at the chapel window, finds a respite from his tor ments. (Other versions of the le gend place Tregeagle on the coast near Padstow, where he is condemned to make trusses of sand and ropes of sand to bind them ; — or at the mouth of the estuary at Helston, across which he was condemned to carry sacks of sand until the beach should be clean to the rocks. The story of Tregeagle, however, with his endless labour, has been connected in Cornwall with a real person, the dishonest steward of Lord Robartes at Lanhydrock (where a room in the house is still called Treg- eagle's), who maltreated the tenants under his charge, and amassed money sufficient to purchase the estate of Trevorder, in St. Breock, where he distinguished himself as a harsh and arbitrary magistrate. A trench cut through this morass has now partially drained the lake, and gives the water a free passage to more inclined ground, where it soon joins a branch of the Fowey rising near the high road, ^ m. W. of the Jamaica Inn. Another tributary to this river has its source under Hawk's Tor (alt. 900 ft.), 1 m. W. of the Four-hole Cross. From Dozmare Pool the pedes trian can cross the moor direct to St. Neot, about 5 m. (Rte. 23) ; or by a circuitous route include Treveddoe, in the parish of Warleggan, a most ancient tin stream-work still in ac tivity, and having, in addition to the excavations of the streamers, shafts 60 fath. deep, which are said to have been sunk by the " old men " (Treveddoe has also a curious old manor-house, now a farm ; the church of Warleggan is Perp., of little interest. The tower was split by lightning from top to bottom in 1818); or he can travel to Liskeard by a road from the Jamaica Inn, 9 m. ; or, by a longer route on foot over the moor, visit on his way Kilmarth Tor, the Cheesewring, the Hurlers, the Trevethy Stone, the Well of St. Cleer, and the interesting me morial known as the Half Stone (aU described in Rte. 23) ; and in the latter route, as the tors of Kilmarth and the Cheesewring are plainly seen from the vicinity of Dozmare Pool, the stranger will have no difficulty in directing his course.] Proceeding from the Jamaica Inn towards Bodmin : — 1J m. Here, leaning towards the road, is the Four-hole Cross, a lonely impressive monument, bearing every mark of extreme antiquity, and situated in a wild and elevated part of the moor. The top is mutilated, and of the 4 holes which once stamped the figure of the cross, 2 only are now remaining. The pillar was evi dently once ornamented with scroll work, which, with the exception of a few lines, has been so greatly effaced that it can only be made out by cer tain lights. At the base is an orna ment resembling the head of a pas toral staff (?). The cross is of an ordinary Cornish type — a shaft with a rounded head — which in this in stance was pierced, so as to form a sort of St. Andrew's cross. The scalloped outline of the round head renders it probable that the whole is not earlier than the 12th or 13th centy. There is another "four-holed cross " between Camelford and Bos castle (Rte. 22). 3£ m. Temple, lies a little S. of the present main road. (Take the dis- Boute 24. — Peverell's Cross — Bodmin. 59 used grass-grown road to the 1., a short way before coming to the first bridge after leaving Four-hole Cross : it rejoins the other road after passing by Temple.) This is a miserable ham let on a manor which belonged to the Knights Templars. They had a ch. here, which long since fell into decay, but still remains as a ruin. It is of late Norm, period. The nave, chancel, N. transept, and S. porch may be distinguished ; and the lower portion of the tower, with eastern arch, remains tolerably perfect, over shadowed by an ash-tree {growing within the ruins. The bowl of the font lies on the ground in the midst of the ch. The ruins are near the road, and are most easily found by turning down a green lane on the I., just after passing the first farm house. Adjoining the village are the rugged rocks of Temple Tor. The parish of Temple is the centre round which 1 2 parishes, collectively known as " the Moors," are ranged. l£ m. rt. Peverell's Cross (notice able), close to the roadside; 1. St. Bellarmine's Tor, and adjoining is another small tor called " Colvan- nic," near the hamlet of Pound Scaw- ens (i.e. the pound by the elder- trees), on the Bodmin and Launeeston turnpike road ; and at a distance of about 2 m. Cardinham Bury, an en trenchment of a circular form, the "bury " of Caer dinas{?), or Cardin ham, possibly giving its name to the parish, and also formerly to the re sident family. [1 m. rt. a road branches to Blis land ( so named from the manor — an ciently Bliston or Blaston), 2 m., where is a Church of some interest (restored). It is ded. to S. Protus (locally S. Pratt), and was at first a cruciform Norm, building. Of this the walls of nave and chancel remain. The font is Perp., but the Norm, bowl is preserved. The rest of the ch., in cluding the tower opening from the N. transept, is Perp. On the S. side of the nave is the Lavethan Chapel, built 1638, for the Reynolds family. There is a Brass for John Balsam, rector, 1410, in chasuhle. The parish was known as " Blisland juxta Montem," from the neighbourhood of Roughtor. The head of a cross (a cross within a circle) is placed near the holy well of S. Pratt. It was once above it. On Pendrift common, near the village, is the Jubilee Rock, so called from certain shields of arms and figures designed on it in incised lines by a Lieut. Rogers in 1809 — the year of George III.'s jubilee. There are besides, sundry verses, in which " Great George" is duly honoured. There are some curious stone enclosures and circles at Carwen, in the parish of Blisland (on a rising ground a short distance E, of the farm-house), and others on Kerowe Down, 1 m. N. of Carwen. On a moor near Carbilly are the Trippet Stones, a circle 108 ft. in diam.— 9 stones in place, 4 on the ground. At Hawkstor, 1 m. E. of the Trippet Stones, is another circle, 152 ft. diam. — 5 stones standing, 8 fallen ; one, 12 ft. in length, is prostrate in the middle. This circle seems to have been surrounded by a trench.] 2 m. Council Barrow, rt. of the road. 2 m. 1. an old cross in a field near the turnpike. 1 m. Bodmin {Inns : *Royal Hotel ; Town Arms), situated nearly in the centre of the county, midway (about 12 m.) from the Bristol and Engljsh Channels. Here are held the sessions and assizes. (For Bodmin and its neighbour hood see Rte. 35. The Bodmin Boad Stat, on the Cornwall Rly., is at Glynn Bridge, 3i m. from the town. An omnibus meets every train.) Proceeding again on our route — 2f m. 1. Lanivet. The Perp. Church 60 Boute 24. — Lanvoet — Fraddon. was restored (St. Aubyn, architect) m 1864, when some curious mural paintings were brought to light, as also a piscina of Dec. work. The ch. possesses a remarkable 14th- centy. stoup (?), made of cuir-bouilli. The churchyard contains 2 ancient stone crosses, one 10, the other about 1 1 ft. high. To the 1., 1 m. distant, are the remains of what is known as St. Bennet's Monastery, a small religious foundation, of which the history is very uncertain. (It seems to have been a house of Benedictine nuns, attached to some foreign mo nastery. The domestic portion of the building (15th centy.,) — it had been the residence of Henry Cour- tenay, an officer of Essex's army in the West, in 1644— with its shafted windows and ivied tower, was very interesting until mutilated and cockneyfied in 1859. The mine- works have also contributed to spoil the scene. A road here branches S. to St. Austell, 8 m. (Rte. 23). Beyond Lanivet the traveller enters a barren country, which, rising to the Tregoss Moors (no longer celebrated for the ponies bred on them), extends many miles. 3 m. a railway for the conveyance of ore, &c, passes from the high road here to St. Blazey. 3£ A road on the 1. leads to the village of Roche (1 m.), which is distant about 2 m. from the bleak hill of Hensbarrow {Hen-barrow, i. e. old tumulus) (alt. 1034 ft.). Roche Church is modern, of the meeting-house type, but contains an old font of the Norm. character, but doubtful date, so com mon in Cornwall ; it is ornamented with two purses (?) interlaced. In the churchyard is a rude cross. The Roche Rocks, j m. S. of the ch., and 6S0 ft. above the sea, consist of several great masses piled together in rude confusion to a height of 100 ft. ; and in the heart of the group are the remains of a little Dec. chapel dedicated to St. Michael. The adjoining cell is said to have been once tenanted by » hermit, and more recently by a solitary leper. The spot is lonely, and well suited to the wild tales attached to it, such as that of Giant Tregeagle, who is said to fly over the moors, on stormy nights, to seek a shelter here from his unearthly pursuer. Close at hand rises a spring which is said to ebb and flow, and at some little distance is the " wishing-well" of St. Roche, to which village maidens still repair on Holy Thursday, to throw in pins and pebbles, and predict coming events by the sparkling of the bub bles. The Roche Rocks consist of quartz and schorl, constituting schorl rock, which is in a friable state. 1 1 m. The traveller is now passing over the Tregoss Moors, the fabled hunting-ground of King Arthur, and may see to the rt. the granite emi nences of Belovely or Belouda Beacon (alt. 765 ft.), and Castle an Dinas (alt. 729 ft.), the latter crowned with an encampment, and interesting to the geologist for a variety of altered slate (see Rte. 22). "Castle an Dinas," the castle of the " fortress " — Dinas signifies a strong earthwork. The name combines the Norman and British terms for a stronghold ; but the stone " castle " and the earthen " dinas " were of very different cha racter. (It is not, as is sometimes said, Castle of the Danes) : it is a very common name in Wales. 3£ m. The Indian Queens, a. lonely inn in a wild unsheltered situation on the moor. J m. Fraddon. — To the 1. of this hamlet, ^ m., lies Calliquoiter Rock, con taining variable mixtures of schorl with granite. The summit of the hill is 690 ft. above the level of the sea. Beyond Blue Anchor the new road to Truro branches off on the 1. It runs by the church-town of La- dock, and through one of the prettiest valleys in the county. The parish of Boute 25. — Tavistock to Liskeard. 61 Ladock is well known for its stream- works. They have produced a quan tity of tin, and some of the largest pieces of gold which have been found in Cornwall. 1 m. The church-town of St. En- oder (Pop. 1151). The small ch. has an early Dee. nave. St. Enoder is said to have died in Cornwall early in the 5th centy. 1. the village of Summercourt, noted for its annual cattle and sheep fair, on Sept. 25, in which 3000 head of stock commonly change hands. 3 m. Mitchell, or St. Michael, before the Reform Act a borough town re turning 2 M.P.s., is now a mere vil lage, with so small a pop. that it is not separately returned in the census. — A cross road leads to Newlyn, 2 m. : and 1^ m. N. of Newlyn is the manor-house of Trerice, the old seat of the Arundels, now belonging to Sir T. Dyke Acland, Bt, was restored by the late Bart, it has carvings in panel representing many of the old houses in the county, and is well worth seeing. 6^ m. Truro {Inns : Royal Hotel ; Red Lion Hotel). (See Rte. 23.) ROUTE 25. TAVISTOCK TO LISKEARD, BY CAL STOCK (COTHELE, MORWELL ROCKS) AND CALLINGTON. 22 m. Coach daily in connexion with L. & S. W. Railway Trains, in 3 hrs., starting from Liskeard 7.45 a.m., returning in the afternoon. The many objects of interest upon the road make it a pleasant entrance to Cornwall. ' Tavistock {Inn : Bedford) is de scribed in Hbk. for Devon, Rte. 14. 3i m. from Tavistock, the Tamar is crossed by Neio Bridge leading to Morwell Rocks. They are well seen from Gunnislake, a village in the midst of a mining district. On the height above is the tin-mine of Drakewalls, where one of the lodes, traversed by a cross course , is open to-day. Calstock {Inns: Tamar Hotel, good, quiet, and moderate ; Ash- burton Hotel at Kelly Rocks, larger and better situation. These comfort able Inns, attached to a dirty village, afford good head-quarters for explor ing the beauties of the Tamar ruer, which begin near this). St. Andrew's Ch. on the top of the hill commands fine views, and contains the burial chapel of the Mount Edgcumbes, with their monuments. A little below the Ashburton Hotel is Cothele, a picturesque and nearly unaltered embattled mansion of the time of Henry VII. and Queen Eliza beth, begun by Sir Richard Edg- cumbe, and now belonging to the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe. It is built of granite, round a quadrangle, on a height covered with woods slop ing down to the Tamar, including one of the largest Spanish chesnuts in England, 32 ft. in girth. The in terior retains its original fittings and furniture, which give it a peculiar interest ; the Hall hung round with arms and armour, and trophies of the chase, horns of the stag and Irish elk. Two "oliphants" or ivory horns deserve notice. One is espe cially curious, with the mouth-hole at the side instead of at the end. Some like it have been found in Ire land, whence this and the elks' horns may have been brought by Sir R. 62 Boute 25. — Tavistock to Liskeard — Cothele. Edgcumbe, who was sent by Queen Eliz. as ambassador to some Irish chieftains. The timber roof is of the time of Hen. VIII. The other apart ments are extremely interesting, es pecially to the antiquary, since they contain a store of antique fur niture, and many curious relics of bygone days. All the rooms are hung with tapestry, which is lifted to give an entrance ; and the hearths, intended for wood alone, are fur nished with grotesque figures or andirons for the support of the logs. The dining-room, at the end of the hall, joins the chapel, which has a triptych over the altar, a screen and stall-desks, temp. Hen. VIII. The glass of the E. window displays a Crucifixion, with 4 angels holding chalices to the hands, side, and feet. There is a small window near the altar, opening to a closet from a bedroom. From the other end of the dining-room a staircase leads to bedrooms in which is furniture temp. Eliz. and Jas. I., including some curious mirrors (one of polished steel), with frames worked in' needlework. The drawing-room, on the first-floor of the W. tower, has ebony chairs, temp. Eliz. Above this room are small bedrooms : one called Queen Anne's; another said to be that in which Charles II. slept, with the furniture as left by him (the bed is of James I.'s reign). Cothele belonged to a family of that name before the reign of Edw. III., when it passed by marriage to an an cestor of the Earl of Mount Edg cumbe. The house has been ho noured more than once by the pre sence of royalty. [Charles II. resided in it for several days. In 1789 it was visited by Geo. III. and his queen ; and in 1846 by her Majesty Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The scenery on the Tamar below Cothele is extremely beautiful. The wood overhangs the river in cluster ing masses, and at the bend of the stream becomes wild and tangled in a hollow called Danescombe. A bold rock projecting from the foliage is crowned by a small Chapel, con nected with the following legend : — In the reign of Richard III., Sir Richard Edgcumbe being suspected of favouring the claims of Richmond, a party of armed men was despatched to apprehend him. He escaped, however, from his house into the wood, closely followed by his pur suers, and, having gained the summit of this rock, his cap fell into the water as he was clambering down the rocks to conceal himself. The soldiers soon arrived on the spot, and, upon seeing the cap floating on the river, imagined that Edgcumbe had drowned himself, and so gave over the pursuit. Sir Richard afterwards crossed into France, and, returning upon the death of the king, erected this chapel in grateful remembrance of his escape. The Chapel contains windows of stained glass, two 15th- centy. paintings, (leaves of a triptych), a monument oi" Sir Richard Edg cumbe, a gilt crucifix, and the image of a bishop in his pontificals. Cothele is in the vicinity of the Morwell Rocks, and other interesting scenes on the Tamar. (See Hdbk. for Devon, Rtes. 7 and 14.) A footpath through the wood leads past Harewood House (now office of the Duchy of Cornwall), the scene of Mason's Play of Elfrida, to the Ferry across Tamar at Mor- wellham. Crossing by the boat, the traveller may ascend by the inclined plane of the Tavistock Canal to the summit of the Morwall Rocks, a scene of the greatest grandeur, and follow ing the line of crags above the river, at a great height above it, may reach the New Bridge, distant 3£ m. from Tavistock. Under Viverdon Down, 1. of the road, about 1 m. short of Callington, crossing a common towards a narrow lane leading to a farmhouse lies Dupath Well, a pellucid spring, which, once the resort of pilgrims, Boute 25. — Kit Hill — Callington. 63 and still held in esteem, overflows a trough, and, entering the open archway of a small chapel, spreads itself over the floor, and passes out below a window at the opposite end. The little Chapel is a complete specimen of the baptisteries anciently so common in Cornwall (see Introd.). It has a most venerable appearance, and is built entirely of granite which is grey and worn by age. The roof is constructed of enormous slabs, hung with fern and supported in the interior by an arch, dividing the nave and chancel. The building is crowned by an ornamented bellcot. Between Cothele and Callington, the traveller will find a road, passing near the Church of St. Dominich, Ear. Dec. with Perp. aisles, restored 1871. Below the embattled parapet of the tower are rude figures of the 12 Apostles. In the S. chancel aisle is a good 17th-centy. monument, with effigies of Sir Anthony Rouse and his son. Halton, in this parish, was their residence, and here lived John Rouse, Speaker of Cromwell's Little Parliament, " the old illiterate Jew of Eton," as the Cavaliers called him. He was the chief author of the metrical version of the Psalms now used in the Scottish Kirk. Kit Bill, alt. 1067 ft., an out lying eminence of granite, and sum mit of Bingston Down, which stretches eastward to the Tamar, and before the reign of Hen. III. was the place of meeting of the Cornish tinners, who assembled here every 7th or 8th year to confer with their brethren of Devon. In 835 it was the scene of the defeat of the Danes and Britons by Egbert ; of which great and decisive battle the tumuli which occur on the down may be traces. Kit Hill, from its isolated position, intermediate between the moors of Bodmin and Dartmoor (about 16 m. apart), and in full view of the wind ings of the Tamar and distant Chan nel, commands perhaps the most im pressive and beautiful view in Corn wall. Upon the summit is the ruin of a windmill, erected upon that exposed spot to work a mine, but destroyed by the violence of the storms ; while the mine was aban doned in consequence of the great expense attending its excavation in a hard granite. Kit Hill, like all bar ren ground in a populous neighbour hood, has a dreary aspect. Its sides are covered with rubbish, and the summit is pierced by a number of shafts, which render caution most necessary in those who ascend to it. 1 m. Callington {Inn: Golding's Hotel), a dreary town, disfranchised by the Reform Bill, and now con taining about 2200 Inhab., chiefly occupied in mining. King Arthur, says tradition, had a palace here, when the place was called " Killy- wick." Horace Walpole sat for Callington during his father's last administration. The Church is a daughter ch. to South Hill, and was rebuilt by Sir Nich. Assheton, who died in 1465. It has been thoroughly restored (1859), J. P. St. Aubyn, archit., and is a good Perp. ch. with a clerestory — a rarity in Cornwall. The walls are of granite, with a good W. tower, on the buttresses of which are the evangelistic symbols. In the chancel is the fine Brass of the founder or rebuilder, Sir Nicholas Assheton and wife. He was one of the Justices of the Common Pleas, wears a coif and long furred robe. On the N. side of the chancel is the tomb with alabaster effigy of Sir Robt. Willoughby, first Lord Willoughby de Broke — died 1503. He is in armour, bareheaded (as usual at this period), and wears the collar, badge, and mantle of the Garter. On the soles of the feet are the figures of 2 monks telling their beads, an unique example. " This beautiful and costly monument is the most striking, perhaps, of its kind in Cornwall." This first Lord W., who 64 Boute 26. — Truro to Falmouth, by Penryn. died steward of the Duchy of Corn wall, was a sharer in the victory of Bosworth. The font is of Norm. character. In the churchyard is a canopied Cross, worth notice. From Callington to ¦ Liskeard the road is one of the most hilly in Cornwall. Midway is St. Ive, of which the Church deserves special notice, as one of the few good examples of Dec. in Cornwall. The E. window, with canopied niches at the sides, is fine. The S. aisle and tower (good) are Perp. There is a large 16th-centy. monument to John Wrey and wife. The ch. was founded by the Knights Templars, who had a preceptory at Trebigh in the parish. There are some remains of Dec. stained glass in St. Ive's Ch. In the Dec. Church of Quethiock, 1 m. from St. Ive, is a fine Brass to Roger Kingdon (d. 1471) and wife, and one of very inferior workmanship for Richard Chivertou and wife, 1617, 1-631. The tower (Dec.) is very sin gular. The second stage rises from and crowns a western gable, like a gigantic bell-turret. The staircase only reaches to the base of the second stage, where it terminates in a small gable on the S. front of the tower. The N. aisle is Perp. Rt. of our road see the ch. tower of St. Cleer. 8 m. Liskeard Stat, in Rte. 23, 18 m. from Plymouth. ROUTE 26. TRURO TO FALMOUTH, BY PENRYN — FALMOUTH HARBOUR. Rly. llf m., 7 trains daily in \ hr. The Rly. is carried over the Penwether Viaduct, 173 yds. long and 84 high, f m. from Truro, and through a tunnel in the slate, 484 yds., at Sparnick. Viaduct at Ring- wall; also at Carnon, 264 yds. long. About 2 m. from Truro, 1., is Killiow {i. e. the secluded place, or place of refuge), seat of the Rev. John Daubuz. It was the old re sidence of the Gwatkins. In the house is a collection of ancient pictures. The adjoining Church of Kea, more like a riding-school than a church in appearance, con tains a very fine font of the Norm. character so common in Cornwall. Here are also a chalice and paten which belonged to Cardinal Rene d'Amboise. The mineral ochre used in the preparation of paint and in staining paper is procured in this parish. 2 m. rt. is Carnon. The traveller will observe that the valley is everywhere furrowed by mining operations. The Carnon Tin Stream works, which for the present are abandoned, were here conducted on a large scale, and in a very spirited manner, the water having been actually banked from the works, which were carried on for some distance in the bed of the estuary. The space of ground thus streamed exceeded a mile in length, by 300 yards in width. In this the tin stratum, which varied in thickness from a few inches to 12 feet, was found at a depth of from 40 to 50 feet below the surface, under accumulations of marine and river detritus, consisting of mud, sand, and silt. One of these beds contained the trunks of trees, and the horns and bones of deer ; and in the tin-ground grains of gold and pieces of wood-tin were occasionally discovered. In the village of Carnon are extensive works for the preparation of arsenic from arsenical pyrites. Rt. 4 m. is Gwennap, the centre of a once flourishing mining district, now deserted, including Tresavac, Consols, United Mines, &c. Boute 26. — Great Adit — Penryn. 65 The Great Adit, which, passing from mine to mine through the Redruth and Gwennap districts, is calculated, with its branches, to pur sue a subterranean course of nearly 30 m., discharges its waters, some times to the amount of 2000 cub. ft. in a minute, through Carnon valley into Restronguet Creek. 4 m. Perranwell Stat. Berran Ar- worthal ( i. e. Perran, or St. Piran " the wonderful") is a village romantically situated in a deep bottom or dell, at the head of Restronguet Creek, which is here joined by the Kennal, a small stream rising near Carnmenellis, and working 39 water-wheels in its course of 5j m. This dell presents a delightful contrast to the rough hills in the neighbourhood. It is densely clothed with trees, through which protrude the harsh features of the county, rugged rocks, but here mautled with mosses and creepers. A large iron-f.<>wdry harmonises with this picturesque scene. The ch. is a small building dedicated to St. Piran, the patron of tinners ; and near it gushes forth the little Well of St. Piran. The woods above this valley belong to Carclew {i. e. "grey rock"), Colonel Tremayne, M.P., late the seat of Sir Charles Lemon, Bart., long M.P. for West Cornwall. The park is of great extent, full of deer, and quite a forest of fine timber. The botanist may notice, growing under the trees, Erica ciliaris, which is found wild no where but in this neighbourhood. He will be delighted with the Gardens, so richly are they stored with curious plants. For many years Sir Charles Lemon cultivated a collection of exotic trees and shrubs, and, as the climate is favourable, the result of his experiments is highly interesting. The magnificent collection of rho dodendrons is alone worth a visit. Here are fine specimens of the Lucombe oak (Lucombe was gardener at Carclew), an accidental hybrid- between the cork-tree {Q. suljer) and the Turkey oak. Of the genus Pinus the most remarkable are P. Morinda, 80 ft. high ; P. Patula, 4 ft. in girth ; Taxodium Sempervirens, 100 ft., well showing how favourable the Cornish climate is to the growth of conifera?. 8J m. Benryn Stat. {Inn : King's Arms, good). (Collegewood Viaduct, near the Stat, is 100 ft. high, and 320 yds. long.) This industrious and rather dirty old borough and market- town (Pop. 3679) is pleasantly situ ated on the declivity of a steep hill, at the head of a branch of Falmouth Harbour^ Pen-ryn, meaning head of the stream ; it unites with Falmouth in sending 1 member to Parliament. The pretty ch. of St. Ghwias (in which parish it is situated) is em bosomed in trees, in a warm shel tered valley, richly fertile, and particularly productive in early vegetables. The working and po lishing of granite, from the neigh bouring quarries, employs many of the inhabitants. The borough was incorporated by Jas. I, The corporation possess a silver cup and cover, given by a Lady Killigrew, with this inscrip tion — " From maior to niaior to the towne of Permarin when they re ceived me that was in great misery, J. K. (Jane Killigrew), 1633." The history of this lady is doubtful. Hals declares that her "misery" was brought about by her having, with a party of ruffians, boarded certain Dutch ships, killed their owners, and carried off two barrels of Spanish " pieces of eight." Lady Killigrew was pardoned by great interest, the others were hanged. The lady was certainly divorced, for whatever rea son, and was protected by the inhab. of Penryn. She was a dau. of Sir George Fermor, of Easton-Neston. The Granite Quarries, which yield the chief employment to the inha bitants of Penryn, are situated in 66 Boute 26. — Truro to Falmouth, by Penryn. the parishes of Mabe and Constantine. The most important of these works are about 2 m. from Penryn on each side of the old road leading to Helston. Penryn granite has been long known for its fine grain, and is the material of which Waterloo Bridge and the Docks at Chatham are constructed. Nearly 20,000 tons have been shipped here in the course of one year, but as the supply is re gulated by the demand it necessarily varies much. Before export the stone is approximately valued at Is. 9of. per cubic foot. The quarries of Mr. Freeman produced the pedestal of the monument to Carlo Alberto at Turin, and can occasionally show monoliths of several thousand cubic feet, perfectly sound, and without a single defect. The geologist may ob serve slate altered by the proximity of granite in the cutting of the road on the ascent from Penryn towards Constantine; and the botanist Antir rhinum repens (or creeping snap dragon), a very rare plant, in the neighbouring hedges. Some small streams descend from the high land W. of the town, and one, falling in a cascade, turns a great water-wheel. A very beautiful view of Falmouth Harbour, and St. Gluvias ch. and glebe, is commanded from Treleaver Hill, on the road to Roscrow, and about J m. from Penryn. Enys (J. S. Enys, Esq.), the seat of the Enys family (at least from the reign of Ed. 1.), is situated rt. of the road to Carclew and Perran Wharf. Its grounds contain a wych elm of enormous size. (In the Cornish miracle-play of the 'Creation' (ed. by Davies Gilbert), Enys and some adjoining lands are given as rewards to the angels who " build" the universe.) Omnibus daily in summer from Penryn to Helston, on the way to the Lizard. See Rte. 28. The Rly. runs in a tunnel through the hill at the back of Falmouth. Falmouth Terminus, S. of the town, at the side of the harbour and pier, and under the walls of Pen dennis Castle. Inns : Falmouth Hotel, close to the Stat., airy, com manding view over sea and harbour, comfortable, and well managed ; Royal H., in the town; Green Bank H, at the N. end of the town, close to the harbour. Steamer daily in summer across the harbour to St. Mawes : — to Truro up the Fal river. (See Rte. 23 and p. 68.) Omnibws to Helston and Marazion. Falmouth owes its existence and prosperity to its situation on the shore of one of the most capacious harbours in England, lying con veniently near the entrance of the Channel. It consists of the creeks or estuaries of several rivers, of which the Fal is one, ramifying like the fingers of a hand, affording a depth of 12 to 18 fathoms, and opening into the sea, between the heights of Pendennis and St. Mawes, each crowned by a fort, 1 m. apart. The main street of the town (Pop. 10,471) is a narrow lane stretching for a mile by the water side. Midway in it, close to the Post-office, stands the Parish Ch., dedicated by Bp. Seth Ward, 1663, to Charles I., King and Martyr, a low dark building, with a stumpy tower and deep galleries inside. The first thing a stranger should do is to walk or drive, by the ex cellent terraced road, to the end of Pendennis Point under the fortress, for the sake of the views over the harbour and along the coast. He will only partially extend his prospect by mounting the hill to Pendennis (Pen Dinas, head of the fort?) Castle, 198 feet above the sea. A circular tower, erected in the reign of Henry V11L, and now the residence of the lieut.-governcr, is the most ancient part of this for tress, which was strengthened aud Boute 26. — Pendennis — Falmouth, 67 enlarged in the reign of Elizabeth. The rather old-fashioned defences, mounting some 200 or 300 guns, are garrisoned by the Royal Artillery, aided at times by the Cornish Artil lery Volunteers. They command the mouth of the harbour jointly with St. Mawe, and the isthmus is further protected by outlying batte ries, and is well furnished with barracks and magazines. In 1644 Pendennis afforded shelter to the queen, Henrietta Maria, when em barking for France; and in 1646 to Prince Charles, who hence sailed to Scilly. Soon after his departure the place was invested by the forces of the Parliament, and its gallant go vernor, John Arundell of Trerice (commonly called " John-for-the- King"), began that stubborn defence by which he so highly distinguished himself. Although in his 87th year, he held the castle for 6 months against the utmost efforts of the enemy ; and when at length hunger had compelled him to capitulate, August 16, to Fairfax, he had the satisfaction of knowing that the royal standard had floated longer on Pen dennis than on any other fort in England, except Raglan. The ram parts command a view of extreme beauty, in which the stranger may contrast the rugged coast of Falmouth Bay, bounded on the W. by Bose- mullion Bead and the Manacles (i.e. " maen - eglos," " church - stone "), with the clustering houses of Fal mouth and tranquil scene of the harbour. For more than 100 years, down to 1850, Falmouth enjoyed the ad vantage of being the Government Mail Packet Stat, to all parts of the world. From 18 to 20 fine vessels performed this service, until the extension of Railways caused its transference to Southampton. This loss is almost repaid to the town by its increasing reputation as a Water ing place, and as a winter and spring residence for invalids, owing to the mildness of its climate, the beauty of its situation and the variety of the views. The heights above the old main street are crowned with rows of houses and handsome detached villas with gardens. The original town or village was at first called by the singular name of Penny-come-quick (obviously a cor ruption of the Cornish Peny Cwm guic = the head of the river valley). It gradually rose into importance, until in 1652, by act of parliament, the custom-house was removed to it from Penryn, and it became the centre of a busy trade. In 1660 a royal proclamation declared that henceforward its name should be Falmouth; and in 1661 it was in vested by charter with all the digni ties of a corporate town. At the entrance of the town from the Rly. Stat, is a pyramidal Obelisk, erected to commemorate the extinct family of Killigrew, whose mansion on the opposite side of the road, called Arwenack, dating from 1571, pro bably the oldest in the town, though considerably altered, serves now as the Manor- office of Lord Kimberley, who has succeeded to the Killegrew estates in this neighbourhood. There is not much to be seen in Falmouth itself. Near the middle of the main street is the Royal Cornwall Polytechnic Institute, founded 1843, chiefly by Miss A. M. Fox, of Grove Hill, for the encouragement of Science, Art, and Industry in the county. In its Hall are portraits of Cornish Worthies, Sir H. de la Beche, Sir Charles Lemon, Sir H. Davy, Adams, the astronomer; Dr. Paris, and the Prince of Wales. The Society holds meetings here every year. Near the N. end of the street it expands into a Market place, in which stands the modern Townhall. Walks < I Excursions : — There is a pleasant walk il"ng the s 2 G8 Boute 26. — Falmouth Harbour. seashore from the Falmouth Hotel past the Old Swan Pool, a Swannery of the Killigrews, and Pennance, the deserted Chemical Works, to Pen- nance Point. About a mile further is Budoc': Church, containing brasses to the Killigrews. In this same direction, about 3 m. from Falmouth, is Pengerrick. the cottage residence of Miss Fox, whose small Garden is worth going far to see, for its picturesque laying out, and for the unusual growth of rare conifers and other trees — under favour of this mild climate. The Cornwall Yacht Club has its head-quarters at Falmouth ; and the Prince of Wales, as Duke of Corn wall, presents a cup for the annual .regatta. Grove Hill (G. T. Fox, Esq.) con tains some valuable paintings, includ ing — Titian, Portrait of Ignatius Loyola; Ann. Carracci, ThdSyro-Phce- nician Woman ; Bassano, Jacob at the Well; and specimens ofZ. da Vinci, Correggio, Claude, and G. Poussin. Tregedna, seat of Joshua Fox, W. of the town (and contiguous to Pen gerrick, Robert Were Fox), is also decorated with valuable paintings. Here are — Titian, " Filia Roberti Strozzi, Nobilis Florentini ;" Vandyke, a Dead Christ ; A. del Sarto, a Holy Family; and works by Baffaelle, Sassoferrato, Morland, &c. The Excursion to the Lizard may be conveniently made from Falmouth, either in a hired carriage by Gweek, the direct and shortest road (Rte. 28), or taking the omnibus via, Helston, which is rather longer. Falmouth Harbour is the principal attraction here to the traveller searching for scenes of natural beauty or for the. yachts man. Its winding shores, every where penetrated by deep and wooded inlets, afford many a subject for the exercise of the pencil. It has been celebrated from a remote period for its extent and commodiousness. Leland speaks of it as " a haven very notable and famous, and in a manner the most principal of all Britayne;" and Carew observes that " a hun dred sail of vessels may anchor in it, and not one see the mast of another." Its entrance, about 1 m. wide, is de fended by the castles of Pendennis and Mawes. In the middle of the passage lies the Black Bock, an ob struction of little import, as, though covered by the tide, its situation is marked by a beacon, and there is on either side of it a broad and deep channel. The sea, having entered through this opening, immediately expands into a basin, so capacious, that, during the French war, buoys were laid down in it for 16 sail of the line, and in 1815 a fleet of 300 vessels, including several of large size, took shelter within it. The centre of this basin is called the Carrie/: Road stead, while the name of Falmouth Harbour, properly speaking, exclu sively attaches to that part of the estuary which borders the town. The haven, however, extends as far as the entrance of the Truro River, a distance of 4 m., and in a sheet of water 1 m. in its average breadth, but opposite Falmouth expanded to 2 m. Its shores are penetrated by the following inlets, which form supplementary harbours, completely land-locked. (See also in Rte. 23, the descent of the Fal.) {a) An arm of the sea, which runs N. from Falmouth to Penryn, aud is crossed by a Ferry from Green Bank at the N. end of Falmouth, to the village of Flushing, reputed the warmest place in Cornwall. This shore terminates in Trefusis Point, a pretty object from Fal mouth, crowned, as it is, by trees, which embosom an ancient mansion belonging to Lord Clinton, sur rounded by woods and grounds. Crossing the hill, you reach Boute 26.— Mylor Church— St. Anthony's Church. 69 (6) The next inlet, in proceeding N. up the harbour, called Mylor Creek, a winding piece of water, ex tending to the woods of Enys (J. S. Enys, Esq.). At its mouth, in Mylor Pool, a favourite anchorage with vessels of small tonnage. Mylor Church stands near the water, and, originally Norm., was altered in the Perp. period, but re tains its Norm, character. The N. doorway (Norm.) is peculiar, and deserves notice. The building con tains a handsome monument with an effigy to one of the Trefusis family, and in the churchyard are 2 fine yew-trees. To this inlet succeeds (c) Restronguet Creek, running into the land for 3 m. to Perran Wharf, where it is bordered by the woods and gardens of Carclew. Upon the shore is the busy port and rising town of Devoran, from which a rail road has been carried to the mining district of Redruth ; and near De voran the church of St. Feock (4 m. from Falmouth or Truro), interest ing for its ancient cross, and as a church in which the Cornish language was long retained. {d) Pill Creek, penetrating N.W. about 1^ m., is the next in order, the body of Falmouth Harbour termin ating a short distance beyond it, at the entrance of the river Fal, or, as it is now commonly called, the Truro River. Here the mansion and park of Trelissic (Hon. Mrs. Gilbert) bound the vista of promontories and hays which indent the shores of the estuary. (See Rte. 23, the Truro River.) Continuing along the E. side of the harbour the shore is unbroken until where the hills are penetrated by (e) St. Just's Creek. In this there is a secluded bay worth visiting, where the water washes the walls of the churchyard of St. Just {in Roseland). At the mouth of the creek is the station of the Lazaretto, and, in its vicinity, St. J'ist's Pool, in which vessels perform quarantine. The next inlet, although mentioned the last, is one of some importance, extending about 3 m., almost to the shore of Gerran's Bay, and constitut ing, for a distance of f m. from its mouth, the Harbour of St. Mawes. Upon the N. side of the entrance stands the Castle, a fortress of inferior size to Pendennis, but erected about the same time (1542) by the same sovereign, Hen. VIII., whose praises are commemorated in Latin in scriptions carved on the towers, said to have been composed by Leland. It crosses fire with Pendennis ; but its batteries are en a level with the water. It surrendered to Fairfax, 1646. The town of St. Mawes, in habited principally by fishermen and pilots, and built along the N. shore, is named from a Welsh saint, variously styled St. Machutus. or Mauduit, and in Brittany, St. Malo. It is the chief seat of the pilchard fishery and curing ; the inhabitants being em ployed during summer months in capturing these fish, and despatch ing them to Italy. Before the Re form Bill it sent to Parliament 2 M.P.s. Near St. Mawes was dredged up, about the year 1823, a remarkable ancient block of cast tin — now in the Museum of Truro. (See Rte. 23.) This creek is bounded on the S. by St. Anthony's Head, which, with its lighthouse, projects into the sea at the mouth of Falmouth Harbour. In its vicinity is the small * Church of St. Anthony (E. English, with a Norman S. doorway), containing a monument by Westmacott to Adm. Sir Richard Spry. It is a beautiful little structure, the best and most complete example of E. E. in Corn wall (restored). Adjoining is Place House, on the site of a Priory, founded by Bp. Warlewast of Exeter, 1124. 70 Boute 27. — Truro to Penzance — Bedruth. ROUTE 27. TRURO TO PENZANCE, BY REDROTH (PORTREATH, CARNBREA.', CAM BORNE, AND HAYLE. ( West Cornwall Railway.) 27$ m. 5 trains daily in 1 J hr. This line — the last link of the iron road from London — traverses the centre of the great mining-field, passing in a cutting through the busy scenes of Carnbrea, Tin Croft, Stray Park, &c, and under their stages of timber. Within a mile of Truro Stat, the rly. to Falmouth (Rte. 32) branches 1. 5 m. Chacewater Stat., so named from a small mining village in a treeless district— broken up by hun dreds of miners' rubbish-heaps. Watts' first pumping steam-engine was . erected in Chacewater mine, and by its performance astonished the Cor- nishmen who flocked, incredulous, to behold it. A wooden viaduct carries the train across the valley. Beyond Gwinear-road Stat, it crosses, on a viaduct, Penpons Bottom, a pretty scene, with the village 1. and Church rt. It descends to Hayle by an incline, about 3 m. long, of 1 in 70, which has superseded the formidable hill on which the trains were raised and lowered by a stationary engine. 2 m. Scorrier Gate Stat. 1. Scorrier House, a seat of George Williams, Esq. (2 m. from Redruth). In the grounds are remains of an encamp ment. From this the excursion to Peranzabule may be made. The rly. is carried through part of the great mining district of _ Corn wall, honeycombed by pits bristling with chimneys of steam-engines, scarred with rubbish-heaps of dig gings and washings hideous to be hold, but once lively, as an ant-hill, now desolate from exhaustion of the ores and emigration of the miners. 2 m. Redruth Stat. {Inns : Tabbs' Hotel ; London Inn), where the stat. is on a hill, and the rly. on a lofty viaduct, looks down upon the dingy and now dull town below, with its main street running up one hill and down another. Redruth, once the centre of the busiest mining district, has seen its best days. Its popula tion is reduced to 9000 from 11,504. It is situated in the heart of that famous district comprised by the 5 parishes of Illogan, Camborne, St. Agnes, Redruth, and Gwennap. The country around it is dreary enough, bare of vegetation, and strewn with rubbish. Now that so many of the mines are abandoned it is doubly desolate. Still the weekly ticketings, or sales of ore, are generally held here. There are doubts about the origin of the name : some derive it from the Druid — Druids Town — others assert the town was named in Cornish Tretrot, signifying the house on the bed of the river. Copper was for a long period the chief pro duce of this great mining field : but many of the mines — as Carnbrea, Dolcoath, Tresavean, and W. Basset ¦ — are now worked, for tin, which underlies the copper. Tresavean, after producing considerably more than one million pounds worth of copper, was, at the commencement of the present " sett," pronounced by experienced miners to be utterly worthless as a copper sett — so com pletely had the ore of that metal been exhausted. The following mines are worked in the great deposit of tin ore called the Great Flat Lode, ex tending S. of Redruth 3£ m. : Wheal Boute 27. — Gwennap Pit — Carnmenelez. 71 Uny, S. Carnbrea, W. Wheal Basset, S. and W. Wheal Frances. S. Con- durrow, and Wheal Grenville, which yield one-half of all the tin pro duced in Cornwall. The Consolidated and United Mines are about 3 m. E. of Redruth, just S. of St. Day, and 1 m. N. of the church-town of Gwennap. They long held the first place in the Cor nish group, and were worked to great depths ; but the copper has been exhausted, and the mines have consequently been abandoned. The church-town of St. Day (locally St. Dye ; nothing is known of the samt) is built upon an emi nence, and so commands a view of the wonderful region in its vicinity. To the S. are the 2 iron tramroads, , which serve as arteries to the mining j district; the one for the conveyance i of timber, &c, from Devoran, the ! other for the transport of the copper- ore to the little harbour of Portreath, where it is shipped for the smelting- pouses at Swansea. The parish of Bwennap, over which the eye ranges rom this height, is said to have yielded from a given space more nineral wealth than any other spot i} the Old World. Tresavean (2i m. from Redruth, ani rt. of the road to Gwennap) was one of the richest and driest cofoer-mines in the county ; it is mole than the third of a mile (350 fain) in depth, and all the produc- tivelevels are excavated in granite. It istaow worked for tin. Tresavean mine was the first in Cornwall to workla man-engine, to lower and raise the men going to and returning from their work. The ch., a mile distani under Carnbrea Hill, con tains a monument by Chantrey, to Williarl Davey, Esq. Trebouiling Bill, S.E. ofiit, is crowned by a small earthwork. Gwennip Bit (about 1 m. from Red ruth, and 1. of the Falmouth road), an excavation in the hillside of Cam Marth (alt. 757 ft), shaped into an oval amphitheatre, surrounded by 12 grades of terraces for spectators, turfed over. It is celebrated as the scene of Wesley's preaching to the miners, and so shaped that the voice of a single speaker can be distinctly heard in it by a very numerous audience. It is called, by way of pre-eminence, The Pit, and is still used by the Wesley aus in the cele bration of their anniversary on Whit- Monday, when, if the weather be fine, there are often from 20,000 to 30,000 persons present. Wesley deserves all honour for the good he effected among the miners aud fishermen of Cornwall, who, before his coming, were certainly not re markable for sobriety or good con duct. His followers however are now decreasing in their numbers. In 1 844 theWesleyans in Cornwall amounted to 21,642, but in 1854 only to 16,430. On the hill opposite Cam Marth is an old entrenchment, occupying about an acre. The church-town of Gwennap is 3 m. from Redruth, and inhabited prin cipally by persons connected with the mines. Near it are Pengreep (John M. Williams, Esq.), a delightful seat midway between Redruth aud Pen ryn ; Burncoose (late Mrs. Williams) ; and Trevince (Beauchamp Tucker, Esq.). The gardens are well worthy of a visit. Here camellias flourish in the open air throughout the year. The tower of Gwennap Ch. stands apart from the rest of the building. Cam MSnelez or Carnmenellis — i.e. " stony rocks," from the broken rocks scattered on the surface — (alt. 822 ft.), 3£ m. from Redruth, and 1. of the road to Helston, is the highest hill in the granitic district between Redruth and Stithians. The Church of Stithians, 2 m. S.E. of Carnmenellis, has a very elegant Perp. tower, the best in the district. This ch. was given by the Black 72 Boute 27. — Truro to Penzance— Carnbrea. Prince to the Cistercians of Rewley, near Oxford. Planguary, a small village N. of Redruth, deserves notice for its name, which originated in an ancient plan an guare, i.e. plain for play, or round, once in its vicinity, but now destroyed. Many villages and parishes have a spot so called, the old wrest ling-place, &c, of the neighbourhood. Portreath, or Basset's Cove, is a pic turesque little place (3J m. N.W. of Redruth), at which a large propor tion of the copper-ore is shipped for Swansea, where it is smelted. The cliffs here are huge and sombre, and the valley opening to the sea a good specimen of a Cornish bottom, the ver dure of its woods agreeably con trasting with the desolation of the country about Redruth. The harbour is connected with the mines by a rail way, and protected by batteries on the adjacent heights. I Cam-brea Stat. Castle Cam-brea (alt. 740 ft.), a rocky eminence, S.W., of granite, surmounted by a castle and a monu ment, commands an extraordinary view over the mining-field, once so rich and populous, now silent and deserted. The view extends across from sea to sea, and commands the sites of the principal mines — as Dolcoath, Cook's Kitchen, &c. The ascent commences by a steep path opposite Redruth Ch. Borlase, au thor of the ' Antiquities of Cornwall,' regarded Carn-brea as the principal seat of Druidic worship in the West of England, and beheld in its weather worn, fantastic rocks all the monu ments of that worship. Here he dis cerned the sacred circle, the stone idol, the pool of lustration, and the seat of judgment. It is perhaps need less to say that these discoveries were, in the main, fancies, and the only remains existing are some circles of small stoues, the foundations of pri mitive beehive huts, partly sunk in the ground, and once thatched with branches, and a series of rock-basins opening into one another. The logan stone and rock-basin are, however, found in every granitic country, and are the forms which granite will in variably assume when exposed for long periods to the abrading influ ence of the weather. At the E. end of the hill, in the midst of some rocks, is a small Castle, occupying the site of one supposed to have been erected by the Britons. The structure is ancient, but has been enlarged in modern times, and coated with plaster. It is built upon several masses of granite, which, lying apart, are connected by arches. The rooms are small, the floors uneven from being laid on sloping surfaces, and the walls pierced with small square apertures like those of Tintagel. A short distance to the W. are the re mains of a circular fortification called the Old Castle, and on the summit of the hill a Column, erected 1836, t( the memory of the late Lord de Dun- stauville. The chapel erected at the W. end of the village (2£m.) of Poole, by tie late Lady Basset, at a cost of 200(i., is in the Norman style, of porphyy, with granite quoins. 1 m. Camborne Stat. {Inn: Tyack's Hotel ; Commercial), a town (7757 Inhab.) surrounded by mines. The mines of Dolcoath, N. Roskea', S. Frances, may be visited from this. The Church (restored 1862), a large, but very low Perp. structu'e of granite, with nave and aisles of same height, and cradle roof, contiins a carved pulpit of wood, and menorials of the family of Pendarves ; one of them a cast-iron slab, dated K55. The places worth notice rear this town are — (o) 3 m. N.W. Tchidy, t}e seat of the Bassets. The park exfcnds over 700 acres, and is mentioned ry Leland Boute 2 7. — Camborne — Pendarves — Dolcoath. 73' as reaching, in his time, to the foot of Cam-brea. The mansion contains some fine pictures, notably two Gains- boroughs. There are also portraits by Vandyke, Kndlcr, Lely, and Reynolds. The monuments of the family are in the neighbouring ch. of Illogan (2 m. from Redruth). Illogan is the birth place of the engineer Trevethick. lt abounds in mines. {b) Pendarves, 1 m. S. (Mrs. Pen darves), the seat of the late Edward William Wynne Pendarves, who represented this county in Pari, for a period of more than 30 years. Pendarves was entirely his creation. He converted a moor into the park, planted the woods, and built the mansion, which is of granite. On the W. side a charming terrace- walk commands the range of hills in the Land's-End district. The rooms contain pictures by Opie and other masters, and a valuable cabinet of minerals, including a nugget of native gold. On open ground within the park is Carvsinen Cromlech, or Pen darves Quoit. The table stone rests on 3 supports, and measures 11 ft. 3 in. by 9 ft. 3 in. It was wantonly thrown down some years since by workmen employed at the house ; but has been replaced. On an eminence in the park is a handsome Chapel, erected 1842, by subscription, to which Mr. Pendarves contributed. It con tains an old font, and occupies the site of an ancient chapel. It is built of granite and porphyry. The Silver ¦Well, in their vicinity, deserves men tion for its poetical name. Clowance {Clow-nans, the " grey dingle " — nan is a small valley with water running through it), 3 m. W. of Pendarves is the seat of the family of St. Aubyn, anciently St. Albyn, who were settled in Devonshire and Somersetshire soon after the Con quest. They acquired Clowance by marriage late in the 14th centy. It is a delightful seclusion, embowered in trees, among which may be ob served a number of Cornish elms, remarkable for the small size of their leaves. The house, which was re built in the first half of the 19th century, contains some genuine pic tures, including a fine cattle-piece by Paul Potter; specimens of P. Wouvermans, Berghem, Ruysdacl, Te nters, Sir Peter Lely, and Wilson; and family portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds. This collection was made about 100 years ago by an an cestor of the Rev. H. Molesworth St. Aubyn. The park is 5 m. in circumference, aud the gardens and hothouses richly stored with curious plants. [A coach or omnibus runs daily from Camborne to Helston (Rtes. 28, 28a) on the way to the Lizard. Crowan Beacon is 850 ft. above the sea, and commands a fine view.] Dolcoath (about 2 m. W., nearer the Camborne stat. than Redruth), long celebrated for its rich copper-ores, (now worked chiefly for tin) is often visited by strangers, as it is so situated on a hill (370 ft. above the sea) that the spectator can obtain a panoramic view of the machinery by which it is worked. The bustle of the scene is truly surprising : steam- engines, horse- whims, and stamping- mills are everywhere in motion , labourers are employed in separating, dressing, and carrying the ore ; and a stream of water hurries from one busy spot to another, giving an im petus to huge wheels, and perform ing other duties on the surface, and then diving underground, where at a depth of 150 ft. it again turns an overshot wheel of 50 ft. diam. Dol coath is 2226 ft. deep. It has yielded in the course of 80 years copper-ore of the value of 5 millions sterling, and is still profitably worked. Cook's Kitchen, formerly a rich copper-mine, now worked for tin, 2040 ft. deep, is separated from Dolcoath by a 74 Boute 27. — Truro to Penzance. cross-course, which has so heaved the lodes that many which have been worked with great profit in the former mine cannot be discovered in the latter. Bell's Mouth (about 3 m. N.W. of Camborne — a corruption of heyle — a river?), a gloomy gap in the cliffs, which are of considerable alti tude, and as black as night. A walk along the coast to Portreath (4 m.) is interesting, and the seal is often to be observed basking on the rocky shore. A Cliff Castle may be noticed by Tehidy. Camborne to Benzance. Gwinear Road Stat, is about 3 m. distant from Bendarves and from Clowance. St. Gwinear, the Church of which is a conspicuous object on the hills. The chancel is good early Dec, and the E. window is of five lights, with intersecting mullions. The splay arch has detached shafts, with heads as capitals. Near the village are the farmhouses of Lanyon and Rosewarne ; the former in olden times the seat of the Lanyons, of whom was Capt. Lanyon, the companion of Cook in his voyages round the world; the latter, once the property of the "Great Arundells," of Lanherne, who built the N. aisle of the ch.; and this contains the marble monu ment of Eliz. Arundell. Between Godrevy Point and Hayle the coast is desolated with sand, which has overwhelmed a number of houses, and long threatened the ch. and vil lage of St. Gwithian with a similar fate. This Church, N., rt. of the rly., ori ginally E. E. and cruciform, has been partially rebuilt; there is a cross in the churchyard. The walls of buildings have been frequently ex posed by the shifting of the hillocks, but the sand is now fixed by the growth of the Arundo arenaria, which was planted with that object. In 1828 a farmer digging into the sand in the vicinity of St. Gwithian church found the remains of a little chapel which had been evidently buried for ages. They were of the rudest construc tion, and, from the absence of all mouldings, were apparently older than those of the oratory of St Piran of Perranzabuloe. There was likewise a baptistery, and around the building a graveyard, where numerous human skeletons were disinterred, (St. Gwithian was one of the many Irish preachers in Cornwall during the 5th centy. He is said to have been martyred by Tewdor, the chief of this district) {Trevarnon Bounds, in the par. of Gwithian, is an extensive British (?) earthwork, which seems to have been occupied during the Civil War.) Penpons Bottom, a pretty scene with village and ch. rt, is crossed on a viaduct. The descent to Hayle is made down an incline nearly 3 m. long, of 1 in 70. The traveller here enters the Land's End district, which, bounded by an imaginary line drawn from Hayle on the N. to Cuddan Point on the S. coast, extends 13 m. in length, and 5 or 6 in breadth. Nine-tenths of its surface consist of granite. 6 m. Bayle Stat. {Cornish, "the river ") {Inns : White Hart ; Steam Packet Hotel, on the shore of Phil- lack Creek). Hayle is a small market town (Pop. 11S0) on the E. shore of a wide sea estuary, covered at high- water, partly embanked, and crossed by a Causeway more than a mile long. The harbour, accessible for vessels of 300 tons, is scoured by damming back the waters of the Hayle river. Hayle consists chiefly of workmen's cot tages, a few poor shops, an inn, and a Railway viaduct, and over all whitewash and coal-dust seem to struggle for the mastery. But the nucleus of the whole is the colossal Iron Works, with their furnaces, Boute 27. — Hayle. 75 foundries, and tall chimneys, of Messrs. Harvey, in which some of the largest steam-engines have been made, and especially the huge cylinders required for drainage of mines and fens. The great Leeghe- water engine, for draining the Lake of Haarlem, in Holland, was made here. Extensive quays and a weir with tidal gates were erected here by the late Henry Harvey, and Hayle is now a busy port, and the coast in the neighbourhood is pretty. Hayle was formerly celebrated for its copper-house for smelting that ore ; but it is now found a cheaper method to carry the copper to the coal at Swansea, and the speculation has, on that account, been abandoned. The scoria or slag was run into moulds for building purposes as it issued from the furnace. Some of the houses and fences are partly constructed of this vitreous material. Tin is smelted in the works of Williams and Co., ad joining the town. Near the W. end of the Hayle via duct (adjoining the station) is an in scribed stone 6 feet long, found in 1843 in one of the sides of the moat of a cliff castle at Carnsew. The in scription runs, " Ic cen — requievit — cu nat do — hie tumulo jacit — Vixit annos xxxiii." The 1st and 3rd divisions are not easily interpreted. The stone is Brito-Roman. A grave, filled with a mixture of sand, char coal, and ashes, was found N. of it. Hayle furnishes London with early spring broccoli and other vegetables, which are sent up per rail, by the ton. The towans ( = Downs) of Phil- lack intercept the view of St. Ives bay, and its island Godrevy, on which a lighthouse was erected 1858 by the Trinity Board. It is to warn the mariner of The Stones, a most dangerous reef of sunken rocks, ex tending from the island a mile or more to sea, and on which hundreds of vessels have'been wrecked. The beacon was first lighted March, 1859. Its lantern is 120 ft. above the level of high water, and the light revolves, exhibiting a flash every 10 seconds. It is on the dioptric principle, and can be seen in fine weather at a dis tance of 16 m. There are several mines in the neighbourhood. Buel Alfred, about U m. S.E., has been remarkable for the large size of its lodes, and has yielded several rare minerals. Buel Herland (about 1 m. E. of Huel Alfred) was originally opened as a silver-mine, and has produced speci mens of native, vitreous, and black oxide of silver, and silver-ore, of the value of 8000?. The lodes of the Herland Mines are very different from those of Huel Alfred, being small and numerous, but they contain a very rich ore. Huel Herland is close to The Church of Bhillack, ded. to S. Felicitas — (whose figure with her seven sons, martyrs, a.d. 150, is placed in one of the windows), rebuilt 1857, save the tower — is conspicuous to the N. of Hayle, and exemplifies the encroachment of the sand from the shore, since it is overhung by towans (Cornish for sandhills) which seem to threaten it with destruction. The view of St. Ives and its bay from the mouth of Hayle river is exceedingly beautiful. The sandy shore, girded by cliffs, sweeps along the margin of the sea in a crescent of some miles, and terminates to the W. at Battery Point, and to the E. at the promontory opposite the island rock of Godrevy. lt will probably tempt the stranger to make an excursion to the town. (For St. Ives, see Rte. 33.) Bayle to Penzance. The road traverses an embankment 1040 ft. long, completed in 1826, at a cost of 7200?. The Hayle river is here expanded to an inlet, which was for merly impassable at high water, when the traveller had to go round by St Erth. To the 1. are the mansion and grounds of Carnsew. On crossing 76 Boute 27. — Truro to Penzance. the embankment the traveller will notice the pretty village of Lelant on the opposite shore. The fuchsia, hydrangea, and myrtle flour ish in its cottage gardens the year round. Near the sea the parish is covered with sand, which is continually being blown up the cliffs from the beach ; and there is a tradition that beneath it lies the castle of Teu- dor, a " rough and ready " king of Cornwall, who decapitated many of those Irish saints who crossed the sea to preach the Gospel to the Cornish. In the Church (N. side of nave) is a Norm, arch, the only Norm, relic in the district. Adjoining it is a fine sharp-pointed arch of the 13th centy. The rest of the ch. is Perp. There is a round-headed cross, with a St. Andrew's cross in bold relief, in the churchyard ; and outside, near the gateway, another cross, small, but perfect. The granite Pyramid on the top of the hill above St. Ives was erected in 1782, by a Mr. Knill, as a monu ment to himself. Trecroben Bill, alt. 550 ft (pro perly Tre-crum-ben, the crooked hill), and a most picturesque eminence, rises behind Lelant from the woods of Trevethow, a seat of the family of Praed. Trecroben Castle consists of a single wall (with gateways) of large stones and earth, enclosing the hill-top. It was, says the local legend, the work of giants, who dragged their victims up the winding road leading to one of the entrances, and killed them on the broad stones within the castle. On this estate are extensive plantations of the pineaster, which is found capable of sustaining the fury of westerly gales. St. Ives Road Junct. Stat, at St. Erth. Branch Rly. 5 ni. to St. Ives (Rte. 33). 1. 1 m. St: Erth (pronounced St. Eerth), a village (Pop. 2558) once known for its copper-mills, which, aban doned at the same time as the copper- house at Hayle, are now, following the fortunes of that establishment, used for rolling and hammering iron. St. Erth Bridge is evidently of very great age, and Leland, temp. Henry VIII., says that it was built 200 years before his time. Near it stands the Church, which contains good Early Perp. windows, and also a cenotaph in memory of Davies Gilbert, P.R.S., who lived at Tredrea in this parish ; and in the centre of the village, on the hill, an ancient cross rudely sculp tured with a figure of the Saviour. S., on a pathway to Marazion, are the woods of Trewinnard,ncrv: a farmhouse, the property of Heywood Hawkins, Esq. Much tapestry still remains in this old house, in a high state of preservation. rt. of the rly. lies Ludgvan (Pop. 3480). — The churchyard commands a charming view, and the ch. is interesting to Cornishmen since in it is buried Dr. Borlase, author of the 'Antiquities and Natural History of Cornwall,' and for 52 years rector of this parish. He died in 1772. He was a friend of Alexander Pope, the poet, and contributed to the splendours of his grotto at Twickenham by sending to him Cornish spars and crystals, and a beautiful Cornish diamond, which had been placed in his grotto in a situation where it resembled the donor, " in the shade, but shining." There is a Trans.-Norm. font in the ch. ; aud a well here has the property (says tradition) of preserving from the halter all who are baptized with its water. Hence a Ludgvan man has never been hanged. In this parish is situated the estate of Varfell, which the ancestors of Sir H. Davy had long possessed, and upon which he had resided in his earlier days. In the church there are tablets of the family, one of which bears the date of 1635. Striking views 1. of St. Michael's Mount and Bay. Boute 27. — Penzance. 77 Marazion Boad Stat., about a m. from the town and causeway leading to St. Michael's Mount. (See Rte. 29.) The rly. now skirts the shore, crossing a level plain inside a tall colossal sea-wall, which hides the view of the sea to 3 m. Penzance Terminus, close to the harbour and pier, E. end of town. The Station inherits a very fishy smell — from herrings and pilchards despatched hence. Inns : The Queen's, on the Espla nade, W. end of town and | m. from the station ; Mount's Bay House, next door to it ; Union Hotel and Western Hotel, both in the town. Some of these will prove very convenient headquarters from which to explore the many objects of interest in the neighbourhood. Post-office in the Market house, close to Davy's statue. Physician.— Dr. Montgomery. Photographs and Models of Cornish Crosses at Procter's, chemist. Omnibuses in summer, several daily to the Land's End and Logan Rock, returning in the afternoon, fare 3s. Coach to St. Just, ditto to Helston and the Lizards. Steamer 3 times a week to the Scilly Isles, 36 m„ in about 5 hrs. The name Pen-Sans means in Cornish " Holy Headland," and is derived from a chapel of St. Anthony (the fisherman's saint), which stood on a point near the pier. Penzance (Pop. 10,414) is a mu nicipal borough and seaport, on a spacious bay, named after the Mount of St. Michael. It is chiefly cele brated as a watering place, on account of its mild climate, which makes it the resort of invalids suffering from lung complaints. The town, which spreads round part of the bay and ascends the hill with its narrow streets, is, on the whole, of mean appearance compared with our S.E. watering places, yet among the lanes, alleys, aud footpaths which intersect it, are many handsome terraces and snug houses let as lodging6. Entering the main street from the rly., you have before you the Market House, a domed building with an Ionic portico, in front of which stands the statue, in Sicilian marble, of Sir Humphry Bang, the philoso pher-chemist and benefactor to man kind by the invention of the safety lamp, who was born 1 778 in a house which stood on this site. The meat market is a pattern of cleanliness, the butchers clad in white. At the back of the building, in the wall, is inserted an old granite Cross. At the W, end of the town is the Esplanade, a broad asphalted walk along the shore, with the Baths at one end, and a Russian cannon at the other. It commands a fine view over the wide expanse of Mount's Bay, margined by a semicircle of low hills, in front of which stands out the pyramid of St. Michael's Mount, the striking feature of the view, which is also frequently en livened by the entering or departure of a fleet of the fishing boats, for which Penzance is famed all along the coasts of Britain. In 1595 Penzance suffered severely from a predatory force of Spaniards, who having landed at Mousehole, after destroying that village together with Newlyn, advanced to this town, and meeting with no opposition laid it in ashes. At length the inhabitants found courage to assemble on the beach and thus intimate to the Spaniards that any farther aggression would be resisted. (But they knew that help had been sought from Plymouth, where Drake and Hawkins then lay with their fleet bound to the West Indies.) Accordingly the ma rauders spread their sails to the breeze and left the coast. In 1646 Penzance was again a sufferer by the chances of war, when it was sacked by I Fairfax. It is distinguished as the 78 Boute 27. — Penzance : Mount's Bay. birthplace of Lord Exmouth, of Davies Gilbert, and of Sir Humphry Davy, the eminent philosopher. The principal place of worship of the Ch. of England is the Chapel of St. Paul, built in 1835 at a cost of 50002. It is wholly of granite, and Gothic. Service also at the neat little ch. of Newlyn, 1 m. along the shore. The parish ch. of Penzance is at Madron on the hill, 1^ m. out of the town, in part a Gothic edifice of 13th cent, withsedile, &c. It belonged to the Knights of St. John, hence the crest of Penzance is a head on the charger. The handsomest building in Pen zance is the Penzance Public Buildings in Alverton St., erected 1867, at a cost of about £15,000 ; it is of good Italian architecture in white granite, designedby J. Matthew. In the centre is a great hall, capable of holding 11)00 people, a News Room and Li brary. In the E. wing are the Guildhall and Towu Council office, and in the W. wing the Museum of the Penzance Nat Hist, and Anti quarian Society, and that of the Royal Geological Society of Corn wall, founded 1814 by the late Dr. Paris, P. R. C. of Physicians. The Museum contains a valuable collection of minerals, principally Cornish. Seve ral models and series of specimens illustrate the mining operations, and the rocks and veins of the county, including every variety of Cornish granite. Here also may be seen Mr. Peach's unique collection of Cornish fossils, including " ichthyolites " from Polperro (see Rte. 24); several in teresting casts, the bones of a whale taken from the Pentewan stream- works, and a splendid slab of sand stone imprinted with the foot-marks of the ehirotherium from Cheshire. This collection is strong in birds, and there are also some antiquities found in the neighbourhood. The beautiful Porphyries and Ser- prntines of the Lizard turned in a lathe into vases and other ornaments are manufactured here, and may be purchased in several shops. In Chapel-street is the store of an ex perienced dealer in Cornish minerals. On the 23rd and 28th of June the custom is observed in this town of celebrating the eves of St. John and St. Peter. At sunset the people assemble in the streets and kindle a number of tar-barrels, erected on the quay and on other conspicuous places, and aid the illumination with blazing torches which they whirl round their heads. Bonfires are also lighted at Mousehole, Newlyn, Marazion, and the Mount, and the bay glows with a girdle of flame. Then follows the ancient game of Thread-the-needle. Lads and lasses join hands, and run furiously through the streets, vociferating, " An eye — au eye — an eye ! " " At length they sud denly stop, and the two last of the string, elevating their clasped hands, form an eye to this enormous needle, through which the thread of populace runs, and thus they continue to repeat the game until weariness ends the sport." With respect to the origin of this custom, the summer solstice has been celebrated through out all ages by the lighting up of fires, and the Penzance festival on the 23rd is doubtless a remnant of sun worship. The same custom is kept up in France, Norway, and in many parts of Germany on Midsummer's Eve. In the vicinity of Penzance charm ing walks lead over the hills in every direction, and surprise the stranger by the suddenness with which they unfold delightful prospects ; the effect of which is considerably heightened by the southern bril liancy and purity of the air, and the varied colouring of the sea, which receives every tint from the clouds that float over it. But before con ducting the visitor to the best points of view, we must give a short sketch of the Boute 27. — Penzance : Mount's Bay. 79 Mount's Bay is an expanse of sea contained within the headlands of Tol Pedn Penwith (W.) and the Lizard, which looms in the blue distance. 20 m. off, to (E.), although the name more commonly attaches to that portion which is included be tween Mousehole (W.) and Cuddan Point (E.). It is justly celebrated for a mild and equable climate. Winter is here deprived of its terrors, and summer is never oppressive ; and for these reasons a residence at Penzance is so often prescribed to persons suf fering under pulmonary complaints. The following is a comparison of the mean temperature of the seasons in Penzance and London. Seasons. Penzance. London. Spring .. 49-66 48"76 ] „ ^. Summer .. 60'50 62'32 I g| Autumn .. 53'83 51-35 [ ff£ Winter .. 44-66 39-12 J ™ ° The mean range of daily tempera ture for the year at Penzauce is 6-7°, in London 11D. Thus, for equabi lity and warmth, the climate of western Cornwall is far superior to that of London, and its peculiarity in this respect is strikingly shown by its effect on vegetation. Beneath the sand of the bay a de posit of black vegetable mould, filled with the detritus of leaves, nuts, and branches, and containing the roots and trunks of large trees, and remains of the red-deer, elk, &c, may be traced seaward as far as the ebb will allow. This is, however, of the same date and character as thesubmerged forests which occur at various points of the Cornish and Devonshire coasts. One result of the mild climate, the rarity of severe frost, and the fertility of the soil has been the cultivation of early vegetables, to supply the markets of London and other inland towns, which has assumed considerable com mercial importance. During the winter and spring months, daily trains, containing many tons of broccoli, cauliflower, early potatoes and peas are despatched, and through out the year enormous quantities of fish. In 1858 potatoes were ex ported to the value of 20,000?. The consequence is that the rental of some thousand acres in the sheltered valleys and sunny slopes round Pen zance has risen to 35?. or 40?. per acre. The high cultivation and the dense growth of crops remind one of the luxurious produce of the fertile plains of Lombardy. The Scilly Isles compete in the growth of vege tables. From the neighbouring hills the views of fhe bay are most de lightful, particularly from Madron, from Rose Hill, and from the field beyond Castle Horneck. Mount's Bay is interesting as one of the principal stations of the Pilchard Fishery, affording accommo dation to a fleet of 150 or 200 boats, of which nine-tenths are for drift-net fishing, and average from 20 to 22 tons burden. Few spectacles are more pleasing than that which is so often presented by this beautiful bay, when its fishing fleet depart in the evening, equipped and ready for sea, with hull and sail illumined by a setting sun, and leaving the shore in a line extending seaward as far as the eye can reach. The neighbouring villages of Newlyn and Mousehole (See Excursions F) maintain a fleet of the finest aud fastest fishing boats, which, when not busy with the pilchard and herring fisheries along the S.W. coast, repair to the N. seas, and may be found in the harbours of Aberdeen and Whitby. Their nets spread out to dry extend for miles round Mount's Bay. One boat's nets measure a^mile in length. Around Penzance are many charm ing Villas and Seats, which bear old Cornish names, and have been long occupied by Cornish families. The finest for position and extent of their woods are Trengwainton (literally "Strong and lively "), on the high land beyond Madron, the seat of Mrs. 80 Boute 27. — Penzance : Excursions. .Davy. One of the most venerable is Trereife (pronounced Treeve), and is now the property of D. P. Le Grice, Esq., in a valley on the Land's End road, completely embowered among lofty elms ; where there are a rookery and avenues. From the lawn there is a view which is unique. The house dates from the 17th cent., and is partly covered by a yew-tree trained against it. On the opposite side of the road are the Trereife Tin Smelting uiorlts, and on the hiil beyond a way side cross, known as Trereife Cross. On the road to Madron is Nanceal- verne, J. U. Scobell, Esq. ; and further | 1. Rosecadgehill, an ancient residence of the Borlase family ; and Castle ' Bomeck, John Borlase, Esq., named from an ancient entrenchment; Re- singy Round, which encircles an ad joining eminence. At the foot of Madron Hill is Poltair Bouse ; on the slope above the Western Green, Lariggan (Walter Borlase, Esq.); and at Chyandour the villas of the Bolithos, Pendrea and Ponsondine, the latter with a roof of thatch, and a .pretty object among the trees. At Pendrea there is a camellia on the lawn, 12 feet high. Environs. The walks around Penzance are so numerous that we must leave to the visitor the pleasant task of discover ing and exploring them for himself, enumerating only a few. Lescaddock or Lescudjack Castle, re mains of a circular encampment on the hill above Chyandour, and an excellent position for a view of the town and harbour. A lane, a little E. of the rly. station, leads up to it. St. Gulval. The turning at Chyan dour branches into 3 roads : that on the rt. leads to Gulval. The village is prettily situated in a deep, wooded valley, or dell. The ch. lies to the rt. on high ground ; it has Dec. por tions, and the tower has figures of the Evangelists at the angles imme diately under the parapet. There is an ancient cross in the churchyard. To the N. of it are the granite rocks of Gulval Cam, a relic of the primeval moor, now islanded in fields, and overgrown with ivy and briers. It commands a beautiful prospect of Penzance and Mount's Bay, similar to that from Lescudjack, but more extensive. St. Madron (the parish church- town). On leaving Penzance the road passes at the top of the hill ; rt. an avenue to Treneere, and 1. York Bouse. Then on the rt. the new Cemetery and its chapels ; and 1. in the valley Nan- cealveme. The lane to Nancealverne also forms the approach to Rosecadge hill, Rose Hill, and Castle Horneck, and ends in a field-path to Madron ch., a pretty walk, with a wayside cross on the ascent of the hill. About i ra. beyond the cemetery a turning on the rt. leads to Hca (pronounced Hay), a village in a fertile valley, which was an uncultivated moor when John Wesley first came into Cornwall, and here preached to the assembled fishermen from a boulder of granite, now covered by the Wesley Rock Chapel. (Wesley's last open-air sermon was delivered under an ash- tree.) From Hea there is a road N. to Ding-Dong tin-mine, and to Zennor by Try Valley, passing Tre- vaylor. Continuing our walk, we ascend the steep hill to Madron (by a path through the adjoining fields), and open a most beautiful view of Mount's Bay. To the 1. is Poltair. Madron Church, an ancient pile,350 ft. above the sea, of no great interest, contains a square font of Norman character. There is a good late Brass for John Clies (1623) and wife, and some very bad modern stained glass, and in the ch.-yard. a mausoleum of the Price family, for merly of Trengwainton. In the ch.-yard. is an ancient Cross, rudely Boute 27. — Penzance : Excursions. 81 sculptured, which for ages occupied a position in the centre of the village. About 1 m. to the N. are the ruins of the Baptistery of Madron Well, a spring once in great repute for its healing virtues, to which cripples resorted, and also love-sick lads and lasses, who dropped pins into the water and watched the bubbles for an omen of good or bad fortune. It still retains the old stone altar — a rough slab of granite with a small square hole in the centre — and above it, on the top of the ruined wall, there is an old thorn-bush, covered with bits of rag fluttering in the wind, tied there as votive offerings. (Many holy wells in Ireland are de corated in a similar manner.) Along the inside walls are stone seats. Castell-an-Dinas (Rte. 33). (the moorland hill to the N.E.) is in a position intermediate between the two Channels, and commanding a superb panorama. The summit, 735 ft above the sea, is crowned by an earthwork and ruined tower, occu pying the site of an ancient hill-castle. Excursion.::. — Penzance is a centre from which many very pleasant excursions may be made. The most interesting of all is a. To the Land's End, returning by the Logan Stone ; this will occupy a day. Omnibus every morning, fare 3s., calls at the hotels. Described in Rte. 30. b. To St. Michael's Mount, 4 m„ starting an hour or two before low water. By rail in 6 min., to Marazion Boad Stat., which is 1 J m. from the Mount. (See Rte. 29.) The Mount may also be visited on the way to c. The Lizard and Kynance Cove by Helston. Omnibus daily to Helston, meeting another to Lizard Town. It is possible to return by these con veyances the same evening, but the excursion dewrves longer time to be given to it. (See Rtes. 28 and 28a.) [Cornw j??.] d. By Madron to Lanyon (Cromlech or Quoit) to Botallock Mine. (Rte. 31,) also Excursion g. e. To St. Ives by Castell ein Dinas and Zennor. (Rte. 33.) /. To Newlyn. Mousehole; St. Paul, and Lamorna Cove. A walk or drive of 9 or 10 m. The most prosperous industry of Mounts Bay is the Fishery, chiefly carried on by the villages of Newlyn and Mousehole. I m. Newlyn stands on the shore, just where the Lands End-road turns away from it. It is a fisher colony of primitive and original character. Its streets are alleys paved with flat stones, crooked and narrow, so as not to be passable for carriages ; its houses small, mostly accessible by outer stairs. Here the fishing-boats unload their cargoes, which, if her rings or mackerel, are carted off at once to the rly. stat. ; if pilchards, are cured on the spot. The neat modern Gothic Church and schoul stand apart from the shore, its nets and fish-houses, by the side of the clear stream, which here enters the sea, up whose shady vale runs the road to the Land's End, passing the Tin Smelting Works. In the Bay, off Newlyn, the waves roll over the site of the submarine Werra Mine. Other mines have been driven from the shore under the sea ; this was sunk in the midst of the sea, at a distance of 720 ft. from the shore. A caisson was placed over the shaft for the pump- ing-engine, and the workings were carried 100 ft. below, but after 30002. worth of tin had been extracted, they were abandoned as too dangerous. The pedestrian may make his way along the shore from Newlyn to [2 m. Mousehole, a similar fishing- village, piled up between the sea c 82 Boute 27. — Penzance : Mousehole : Lamorna. and the hill-side. Both, though pic turesque, are very dirty, and those who enter them must be steeled against vilhunous fishy smells, aug mented by the pet dunghill in front of many houses, fenced in as though it were a garden. Beyond the small granite Pier, a picturesque house of the old family of the Keigwins is now an Inn (Keigwin Arms). Early in the present century when smuggling was rife along this coast, and tubs of spirit were netted in pre ference to pilchards, the Mousehole people were by no means regarded as models of excellence from a moral point of view ; but John Wesley and his followers effected a great change by their preaching, and, much to their credit, reclaimed the fishermen from their former reckless and dis orderly habits. Drunkenness is now almost unknown in the place, and Sunday is reverenced by all as a sacred day. The fishermen have built for themselves an additional pier at a cost of 14002., 1200/. of which was raised by their own joint bond, which they have discharged by a yetirly contribution from each boat. About 100 ft. beyond the Pier the geologist will observe a junction of slate with granite, the veins of which become schorlaceous as they pene trate the slate. 300 ft. further along the shore is a Cavern difficult of access, owing to the heaped blocks of detached stones which beset its entrance, yet visited by ladies in search of the rare Asplenium ma- rinum, which literally drapes the roof with its foliage, but grows for the most part out of the reach of the tpoiler. A path leads up the hill from Mousehole to St. Paul. In summer and autumn the salt ing and curing of pilchards under heavy weights occupies the inha bitants, and taints the air with bad smells.] At Newlyn the carr. road to St. Paul at once ascends a long and very steep hill : fine views over Mounts Bay from it, and from the villoge of St. Paul, whose noble Church Tower is a landmark from far and near ; it seems to be of Dee. age, with a fine Perp. window in serted. The cb. (rebuilt) contains a monument to one of the Godolphins, with a Cornish inscription, and the grave of Dolly Pentreath— the last person who spoke the Cornish lan guage. A monument was erected to her on the ch.-yard. wall, 1860, by the Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte, the philologist, and the vicar of St. Paul, Rev. John Garrett. Here also is a Ch.-yard. Cross. A pleasant path over the fields leads from this down to Mousehole (see above). Lamorna Cove is reached in about 2 m. from St. Paul. For the latter part of the descent the road is very rough, and bad for a carriage The praises of this little quiet combe, opening to the sea in a small cove, have been exaggerated; the scenery at the best is only pretty, a small stream with water-mills and hazel and alder copses forming its chief feature. The hill-sides more over are now defaced by the quarry ing of granite, and by the rubbish which it pours over the slopes. The cliffs on the shore are low and featureless. g. Excursion to the old Stone Monuments. Penzance to the Gurnard's Bead, returning by Morvah and Madron, visiting Chysawster, Chun Castle, the Doled Stone, Lanyon Quoit, and Trengwainton Cairn. {For pedestrians over Corn Galva, by the Men Scryffen, Boskednnn Circle, the Holed Stone, and Lanyon.)N.B. Only rough Inns at Zennor aud Gurnard Head. Boute 27. — Penzance — Chysawster. 83 The Gurnard's Head, or Treryn Dinas, is », promontory on the N. coast, about 7 ni. from Penzance. The direct road leaves Penzance by the E., and turning immediately to the left at Chyandour, ascends the hill towards Trevuiler, instead of turning rt. to Gulval village. A fine view of St. Michael's Mount immediately after the turning. rt. Bleu {i.e. parish) Bridge, at the bottom of the steep hill next turning on rt., a picturesque spot, with some lofty elms. At the end of the bridge (which is a mere crossing-stone) is a granite block, 6 ft. high, with the inscription, " Quenatavus Icdinui Alius." Trevailer, the seat of the Rev. W. Veale : the road passes under a fine avenue of trees. We are now just on the junction of the granite and slate. In the bottom, on the rt. be tween this place and Chyandour, we have passed probably some of the most productive land in the neigh bourhood of Penzance. Passing a granite quarry on rt. we come to the turning rt. to Zennor {Bte. 33). The high hill on 1. is Mulfra (Mulfra is a cormorant or gannet, the " Cormorant's Hill "), the sum mit of which is crowned with a re markable cromlech called Mulfra Quoit, which seems to have stood originally on four uprights, like the Chun cromlech : the table-stone of this appears to have been pushed or to have slipped off, and one of the four supporters has disappeared. There is a fine view of both channels from the top of the hill. About 1 m. after passing Mulfra, and J m. to the 1. is a fallen crom lech, of the same plan as those of Mulfra and Chun, but with the re markable feature of a circular cover ing stone, diam. 4 ft. 10 in. and 5 in. thick. It is now lying on the ground. 500 yds. N. from this cromlech, and close to the village of Bosphrennis, is the most perfect specimen of a Bee-hive Hut remaining, probably in England. It consists of two cham bers, one circular, 13 ft. diam. ; the other, an oblong parallelogram, 9 ft. by 7, with a doorway 3 ft. 10 high, communicating with the outer cham ber. In the end wall (8 ft. 6 in. high) of the square chamber is a window about 1 ft. high and 4 ft. from the ground. The principal entrance faces S.W. ; and not far from it is an opening in the wall of the circular chamber, with lintel and jambs. Each course of stone was stepped over that beneath it. There are remains of other huts in the immediate vicinity, and traces of rude enclosures. More perfect examples may be seen in Ireland, where a square chamber adjoining a circular one is generally believed to indicate an oratory opening from a hermit's cell. The date of this hut at Bosphrennis is quite uncertain. The direct road continues straight to the Gurnard's Bead, or rather to the village of Treryn, where the carriage must be left : the headland itself being J m. further across some fields, with one or two hedges to be climbed. This route may be varied for the antiquarian traveller by follow ing the old St. Ives road from Penzance as far as a place marked " Badgei's Cross" on the Ordnance map (see Rte. 33), and taking the turning 1., which will bring him out on the direct road, a little to the S. of Mulfra Quoit. He will thus be en abled to see the remains of the an cient British village of Chysawster (the name signifies " heap-shaped," or "bee-hive" houses). It lies on the rt. of the road, near a farm of the same name. It seems to have once been enclosed by a wall or fortificatinn of some kind, two tolerably perfect slopes or embank ments existing on the W. side. Within this embankment are about a dozen dwellings ; each oval-shaped, G 2 84 Boute 27. — Gurnard's Head — Chun Castle. with a very thick and strong waU of uncemented stone, surrounding an open central area, to which there is only one entrance. In the thick ness of this wall three or more oval apartments are formed, each faced internally with a wall of rough ma- smry, and each having a doorway between 2 and 3 ft. wide, leading into the central area. The walls inclined inward towards the top, till they either met, or left but a small space to be roofed over, which was pro bably done with a flat stone. [The "pounds" or villages on Dartmoor, and especially Grimspound (Devon, Rte. 8), should be compared; Chy sawster, however, more nearly re sembles the Irish " cloghauns."] Similar remains in Cornwall are Bo- dennar Crellas in Sancreed, Bos phrennis in Zennor, and Bosullow (see post). (For some general re marks see Introd.) The Gurnard's Head, like the head land of the Logan rock, has evi dently, at an early time, been forti fied hs a cliff-castle, and, projecting far into the waves, commands an excellent view of the neighbouring coast. E. and W. this huge barrier dives sheer down into deep water, so that the heaviest seas roll in un checked and burst upon it with ter rific violence. The background of the shore is also most interesting. Hills of rock and heather, sweeping round in the form of a crescent, ter minated on one side by Carnminuis, on the other by Cam Galva, enclose a great terrace extending to the cliff's. On the isthmus connecting the Gurnard's Head with the main land are the remains of a small chapel, with the altar-stone entire. There was a holy well close by. The Gur nard's Head exhibits to those who scramble along the base of it (a feat practicable at low water) a splendid section of the strata. It is composed of slaty felspar, horn blende, and greenatone. In its vici nity the romantic cliffs of Zennor (E.) run for nearly \ m. on the junction- line of the granite and slate; and Porthmeer {i.e. sea-port) Cove, 1 m. W., is well known to geologists for the large size of the granite veins which there penetrate the slate. (For pedestrians see end of this Excursion.) Rough Inn at Gur nard's Head. Returning to the carriage at Tre- reen, a picturesque road leads be tween the high lands of Cam Galva, &c, and the sea, on rt. through Morvah and Zennor mines to Morvah. One of the most picturesque head lands passed on rt. is Bosigran Castle, once fortified, like so many of the points in the W. Within it is a flat lngan rock, containing several rock basins, and measuring several yards in circumference. Shortly before reaching Morvah, our road turns up a sharp hill to the 1. : on reaching the top a fine view of both channels is gained. | m. rt. across the down, only accessible for pedestrians (the car riage had better be left at this point), is Chywoon (pronounced Chun) castle (the name means 7io«se on the doivn), the most easterly of seven hill castles between this place and the Land's End, from which signals might be interchanged. The circle of the walls may be easily made out crown ing the summit of the second hill S. of the road, just before it begins to descend towards Lanyon farm. It is somewhat similar in construction to Caer Bran Round (see next Exc), but is by far the best example of a hill castle remaining in the West. Three lines of wall exist, built of rough stones. The band of the destroyer has been at work here too, and so many of the stones have been removed for building, that the circles are far less perfect than in Borlase's time, 100 years ago. The interior diameter, E. to W„ is 125 ft., Boute 27. — Chun Quoit — Boskednan Circle. 85 and N. to S., 110. Traces of divi sions, or walls, exist in the interior, which Borlase supposes to have been huts or chnmbers for the shelter of the occupants of the castle. Within one of these is a well, with steps to go down to the water. The entrance, called " the iron gateway " (the walls crossing the ditches, and the arrangements for defending this gateway, should be noticed), faces W.S.W., pointing straight to Chun Quoit, a cromlech about 200 yards distant : a picturesque ob ject, but smaller and less striking than Lanyon Quoit {vid. inf.). Its table-stone is 124 ft. in length, by 11£ in width ; a barrow of stones for merly surrounded it, as was the case with other cromlechs in Wales and Cornwall. The 3 parishes of Mor vah, Madron, and St. Just meet here. At 02c2 Bosullow, N. of the castle, on the slope of the hill, are some remains of a British village, similar in construction, but perhaps less per fect than those at Chysawster. An ancient road leads from them to the castle. The side of the hill and the plain below are covered with small barrows. At Bodennar, about f m. S.E. of Chun Castle, is a single dwelling called the Crellas (a corruption, it has been suggested, of Cryglds, a " green hillock," from its appearance, covered with turf and furze), which is worth notice. It consists of 2 circles, formed by rough strong walls, the larger circle (40 ft. from N. to S.) opening into the smaller (21 ft. from N. to S.) by a passage, 6 ft. wide, between 2 large slabs. The larger circle has 2 concentric walls, the space between which has been divided at intervals by traverse walls, one of which remains. Above the higher circle is a large green ter race. Returning to the carriage, we de scend the hill eastwards, till we come to a small stream, which crosses the road just W. of Lanyon farm. Hence a track to the 1. across Anguidal Down leads to the Men-an-tol, or Holed Stone, one of 3 stones which are dis posed in a straight line. It is known locally as the "Crick Stone"- it being supposed that, if a person af flicted with a crick in the back crawls 9 times through the hole, and sleeps with a sixpence under his pillow, he will bo cured. The centre stone is 4 ft. in diameter, and 1 thick : the hole itself is 1 ft. 3 in. in diameter. The stones are easily found, as no other upright stones are in the same croft. They lie nearly in a straight line between Lanyon farm-house and the western peak of Carn Galva, about J m. W. of the stream, which crosses the road. Men Scryffen, or Screpha, the Writ ten Stone, lies in a croft under Carn Galva, and triors men Screpha, the Down qf the Written Stone, about 1 m. N.E. of Lanyon. It is one of the most ancient sepulchral monu ments in Cornwall, supposed to date from a period antecedent to the de parture of. the Romans from the country. It is about. 8 ft. in length, and bears the inscription " Rialohran Cunoval Fil." The Men Scryffen for a long time lay prostrate on the moor, having been thrown down by a miner digging for treasure, who nearly lost his life by the fall of the huge mass. It has since been raised, and is now a conspicuous ob ject. The inscription can be easily read. Between Men Scryffen and Ding Dong mine is Boskednan Circle, or the Nine Maidens, a ring of stones, similar to those of Dawns Men and Boscawen Rose. The diameter is 72 ft. 6 stones stand erect, and one is nearly 8 ft. in height. 5 lie prostrate. The eye ranges over a vast extent of uncultivated country, and to the blue expanse of ocean. Directly N. rise the magnificent 86 Boute 27. — Penzance — Lanyon Quoit. rocks of Carn Galva ; to the S. is the mine of Ding Dong; to the E. is seen Mulfra Quoit on the crown of a barren height, some 2 m. away. It must be remembered that to go to these last two objects aud return will entail a walk of from 2 to 3 in. over rough ground. After leaving the holed stone it is perhaps better lo make inquiries as to the position of the Men Scryffen at a solitary house between the holed stone and Carn Galva. The house rejoices in the name of " Four Parishes," as Madron, Gulval, Morvah, and Zen nor meet there. Returning from Boskednan circle, and taking Lanyon for a landmark, it is better to come out at the top of the hill just E. of Lanyon, the 'Carriage having been ordered to come there. Here on the moor of Boswavas is fhe Cromlech called Lanyon Quoit (Lanyon is said to signify the"furzy enclosure"), a lonely old monument, the effect of which is much enhanced by the wildness of the country. It is sometimes called the Giant's Quoit, and consists of a large table-stone 18f ft. in length, by 9 in width, pointing nearly N. and S., and supported by 3 rude pillars, which are inclined from the perpendicular. This stone, which is raised about 5 ft. from the ground, was upset some years ago, but it was shortly afterwards replaced by Lieut. Gold smith with the machinery which restored the Logan rock to its position. There is another Crom lech in a field, J m. W. of Lanyon farm-house, nearly as large as the one described, and known as West Lanyon Quoit. It had apparently 4 supporters, only one of which remains ; and the table-stone, which is 13 ft. 10 in. long, rests with one edge on this solitary supporter, and the other buried in the ground. This cromlech was found in 1790 within a great tumulus of earth, and stones, after nearly 100 cartloads had been removed. 1 m. a cart-track to the 1. leads to Ding Dong mine, one of the oldest tin mines in the county : from this corner there is a fine view over Mouut's Bay. The road presently passes through the plantations be longing 1o Trengwainton (T. S. Bolitho, Esq.). Observe the luxuriant undergrowth of rhododendrons. At the end of the plantation a gate rt. leads from the road to Trenguiainton Cairn, a rough pile of rocks from which there is a grand view of Mount's Bay. It is popularly known as " Bull's View," probably a corruption of "Belle Vue." Near the footpath, 100 yds. W. of the gate, there is an old cross. | m. a cart-track leads to Madron well and Baptistery in a croft J m. E. of the road. See Rte. 27. | m. St. Madron Church town (see Rtes. 27 and 31). Observe the view from the churchyard, and the fine old cross. The enormous stone, edifice in the churchyard is the mausoleum of the Price family. 1| m. Penzance, Rte. 27. Good walkers are strongly recom mended on leaving Gurnard's Head to ascend Carn Galva, and crossing it to visit the Men Scryffen, Boskednan Circle, Lanyon Quoit, and the Me~n an tol, or holed stone, all described above. Coming out into the road followed above, near Lanyon, they can either return as described above (in which case the holed stone had better be visited before Lanyon Quoit), or, prolonging their walk, visit Chun Castle. A farm marked on the Ordnance map as Great Bosollow lies immediately at the E. foot of the hill, on which ChQn stands; from hence a capital foot path leads through various crofts, and across Trengwainton Cairn to Madron. The distances for a pedes trian would be approximately: Pen- Boute 28. — Falmouth to the Lizard. 87 zance to Gurnard's Head, 7 m. direct ; Gurnard's Head to Lanyon, over Carn Galva, 4 m. ; Lanyon to Chta, 1J m. ; Chun to Penzance, 6 m. Cam Galva is the finest hill in the Land's End district, being literally covered with granite, which crests it in a very beautiful manner. ROUTE 28. FALMOUTH TO THE LIZARD BT PENRYN STAT., BV GWEEK KVNANCE COVE, MULLION COVE, LIZARD TOWN AND LIGHTHOUSE. The Lizard may be reached from Falmouth, a. By Omnibus to Helston — via Penryn (Stat.) Rte. 26. ft. Pedestrian route — crossing Hel- ford river at the ferry to Manaccan — the shortest way. (Rte. 28c.) c By direct road (18 m.), avoiding Helston, as follows: A carriage and pair may be hired at the Falmouth Hotel (time 3J- hrs.). Charge 30s. It may be worth while to retain it at Lizard Town, where conveyances are scarce. This direct road from Falmouth is at first hilly and varied, passing a little to the W. of Budock (avoiding Penryn), leaving on rt. the granite quarries of Mabe and Constantine, whence came the stone for Waterloo Bridge, through which the road by Penryn passes, and traversing miles of wild common, golden in spring with the flower of the gorse. It descends upon the head of the Helford Creek, at the village of Gweek, mentioned in Kingsley's novel ' Hereward, the Wake,' where the horses may bait at the small public house near the bridge. Crossing the river Hel by the bridge, the road ascends through the fine woods of Trelowarren (Rev. Sir Vyell F. Vyvyan, Bart.). The house lies to the S. of the village of St. Mawgan, to the 1. of our road. It is a castellated building of the same da'e as many others in the county (circ. 1620-40), contains pictures by Van dyke and Kneller, and was probably erected early in the 17th centy. Vandyke's portrait of Charles I. was presented to the Vyvyans by Charles II. as a mark of gratitude for their services during the civil war, when Sir R. Vyvyan, master of the Mint, set up a coining press here with the royal dies, and issued money to pay the King's forces in the West. The late Sir Richard Vyvyan (died 1 879) was the champion of the Tory party who moved the rejection of the first Reform Bill in the House of Commons, 1831. A chapel is attached to the mansion. At Halligey, 10 min. walk from the house, are subterranean Galleries, the origin and use of which are not clearly known. Their sides and roof are formed of large stones. 1. At St. Mawgan in Manege is an old stone cross — inscribed Cnegumi fil. Enaus. From the downs in the neigh bourhood of Mawgan a fine view may be obtained over the adjacent districts. Mawgan is 4 m. S.E. from Helston. In the Church (Dec. chancel and transept, the rest later) is a hagioscope of the same character as those at Landewednack and St. Cury, but differing in detail. The Perp. tower, battlemented and pinnacled, and much enriched with shields, is the finest in this part of the country. In the S. transept are some ancient effigies of the Carminowes (temp. Edw. I.?), who claimed descent from K. Arthur, and were formerly seated on the banks of the Loe Pool. (The family of Carminowe was probably at one time the most important in the county. All Boconnoe, Lanhy drock, and Glynn in the eastern Boute 28. — The Lizard : General View. division, and Tregothnan and Loe Pool in the west, belonged to them. In the N. aisle is a monument to Sir Richard Vyvyan (1696), and the sword which he loyally wielded in the Rebellion. The road soon enters the Lizard Bhtrict, joining that from Helston (Rte. 28a), on the dreary Goonhilly Downs. The Lizard. — General View. {See Special Map.) The Peninsula of the Lizard (a ¦Cornish word, of doubtful meaning, either=a jutting headland or a gate ; Welsh, Llidiart = Corn Lezou), in shape an irregular triangle, is a nearly uniform and monotonous table-land, treeless, and in great part moorland. It is raised some 300 ft. above the sea, aud all the interest about it is confined to its rocky fringe of coast and its cliffs and coves of slate and serpentine. Good car riage-roads traverse the centre of the plateau from Helston and Gweek to Lizard Town, near the S. extremity, which, along with Mullion aud Ky nance Coves on the W. shore, and Cadgewith on the E., are the spots best worth visiting. These interesting scenes lie off the high road, at a distance of 1 or 2 hi., and are to be reached only by cross roads or rough paths. For this reason the pedestrian has great ad vantage in exploring this district, as he can keep to the footpaths, which run with occasional interruption close to the edge of the cliffs, and are fol lowed by the coastguard-men, by whom the direction is often marked by splashes of whitewash on the dykes or detached stones. This route, however, is circuitous, and in- ' volves many ups and downs, wherever a gully or streamlet descends to the sea. At Lizard Town there are 2 homely Inns, where it is quite possible to pass the night, visiting Mullion and Kynance on the way, and taking the Lizard Lights and the coast as far as Cadgewith next day. The walk along the cliffs to these places is very agreeable, and not too fatiguing for moderate pedestrians. The district is remarkable for con taining a large area of Serpentine, an igneous and intrusive rock akin to felspar porphyry, of beautiful aspect, which has derived its name from the supposed resemblance of its streaks and colours to those of a serpent's skin, and which constitutes, with diallage, half the district under con sideration. Serpentine contains a large share of magnesia (it is a silicate of magnesia), and for this reason the soil upon it is poor and ungrateful, but characterised by the growth of the Erica vagans (Cornish heath), the rarest and most beautiful of the English heaths.* At a distance of about 6 m. from Helston the traveller will enter the area of serpentine, and behold this rock protruding through the turf in sharp ridges. It constitutes the basis of Goonlnlly Down, a bare waste {goon, a down ; haller, to hunt) once famous for a breed of small horses. The tra veller will observe that the boundary of the serpentine is very clearly de fined by the growth of the Erica vagans. The distance by high road from Helston or Gweek to Lizard town is about 10 m. 5 m. rt. is Bochyu ( — Davy, Esq.), containing a collection of old stone implements: 1. lies Bonithon, another old Cornish family seat. Near this a road turns rt. to Gunwalloc and Mullion Cove, passing Pradanack village, with its old Cross 5 ft. high, and Mullion village, where the homely but comfortable Old Inn deserves * The T.Izard district has been pleasantly described by the Rev. C. A. Johns, in a little work entitled ' A Week at the Lizard," published by the Soc. for Promoting Christ. Knowl. 1848. Boute 28. — Mullion Cove — Kynance Cove. 89 mention, on account of its worthy landlady, Mary Mundy, whose visitors have left testimonials in her favour in the shape of Latin and English epigrams, e.g. " Munditia floret sic vetus ilia domus !" The old Church of St. Melanus or Malo, a Breton saint (restored), Perp., with a tower dating from 1500. Obs. over the door a carving of the Crucifixion, the Virgin, and St. John. It retains some old glass and well- carved bench ends. By a cart-road 2^ m. from this you reach Mullion Cove, or Borthmellin, one of the most romantic of those retired inlets which abound on this coast, shut in by cliffs of serpentine, shel tering a mill and one or two fisher huts, but unapproachable by ships, which reach it only to suffer wreck on its reefs and precipices. These should be visited at low water, as the shore is adornedhy picturesque rocks, and an arch or chink in the cliff, a little way to the 1., is accessible from the shore only when the tide is out, and will admit the adventurous ex plorer to one of the finest serpentine caverns in the district. Returning to the high road from Helston, and pursuing it until about 2 m. short of Lizard Town, another rough track across the moor leads rt. in about Ij m. to Kynance Cove (Ky-nans = Dog's Brook), the most picturesque and original scene in the Lizard promontory. It may easily be explored by ladies, but the stranger, beguiled by the varied at tractions of the place, is warned to pay strict attention to the state of the tide, for by lingering too long he or she runs the risk of having their retreat cut off by the water rising. A steep path through a notch or chine in the cliffs, here composed of dark serpentine, leads down to the shore, at a spot cumbered with huge broken fragments, the remains of a cave which has fallen in. Scrambling over these, round a corner of rock generally washed by the tide, you enter a land-locked amphitheatre or oval -recess, deserted by the waves at low water from 2 to 4 hrs. every tide, and leaving a broad expanse of white sand, shut out from the sea by a group of lofty isolated rocks, rising in fantastic shapes of towers, pinnacles, and obelisks. The biggest of these is called Asparagus Island, because that plant grows wild upon it. On the land side this arena is walled in by lofty overhanging cliffs, whose base is worn by the waves into caverns, to which fanciful names are given — the Kitchen, Parlour, Draw ing-room. The circle is closed behind by the Gull rock and the Lion. The peculiarity of all these rock masses is that they are of serpentine, dark almost to blackness, but varied with stains of red, green, and white steatites, glistening in the sun from the polish produced by the friction of the waves, which still drip in briny streams from their surface long after the tide has retired. The most prominent object in the cove is a narrow pinnacled rock, rising in the midst like a huge obe lisk, called the Steeple. Between it and Asparagus Island is a deep chasm, which at certain states of the tide exhibits a curious pheno menon. A narrow fissure, fancifully denominated the Devil's Bellows, pierces the island, and runs from the sea to the cove. From this at in tervals a jet of water is violently projected, like the spout from a whale's blow-hole, its passage through the crack being indicated by a rumb ling noise like thunder. " This sin gular effect is produced by the air accompanying the waves as they are dashed into the aperture, and con fined by the perpetual entrance of the sea behind becoming highly com pressed, until forced together with a column of water through the oppo site opening." When the water has 90 Boute 28. — Kynance — Lizard Town — Lizard Point. thus been blown through the bellows the traveller may communicate with the presiding spirit of the place by holding his letter open before an orifice known as the Post-office. But he mustnot expect that it will be cour teously received. The invisible post man — the indraught current of air — will rudely tear it from his hand, and, unless he be prompt and active in his movements, an answer will be thrown in his teeth by the returning jet, and he will hardly escape without a ducking. Travellers possessed of activity will find it an easy matter to climb to the top of Asparagus Island, from which, on the seaward side, they may have the pleasure of looking down the Devil's Throat, a rocky chasm filled with froth and foam, and at intervals sending forth a dismal sound as the waves burst into its cavernous recesses. Those who come hither direct from Helston should make an effort to reach the summit of the Rill, a cliff N. of the cove commanding the best general view of it, and should also, as previously stated, walk from Ki- nance to the Lizard Town and lighthouses (2 m.) by the cliff. The geologist may observe among the rocks at Kinance a brown diallage, jade, compact felspar or saussurite, asbestus, and a vein of granite de scending the cliff in the manner of a dyke. The high road from Helston ter minates at Lizard Town, a village of 3 or 4 streets of small houses about a mile distant from the sea, and rather more from the point of rock after which it is named. It contains 2 homely Inns (Skewe's and Hill's), where clean beds and simple fare may be had. Lodgings are to be had in the villages. G. W. Bulley is an intelligent Guide. He is a polisher of serpen tines, and deals in objects made out of it. Omnibus daily from and to Helston, corresponding with rly. trains, but travellers not pressed for time may pass the night here, and explore the curiosities of the neighbourhood. These are : a. Kynance Cove, if not visited on the way to the Lizard, may be reached by a pleasant walk along the clifftops (see p. 98, Rte. 28b) of 2 m. b. Round the headland of the Lizard, a romantic walk of 2 or 3 hrs. in fine weather, following a path at first alongside or on the top of the hedge (here a broad stone dyke) to Polpeer Q m.), a small sandy cove, one of the few on this iron-bound coast where fishing-boats can put in, therefore appropriately chosen as the stat. of the Lifeboat. Here the cliffs are worn into nume rous caverns, but there is one about 100 yds. W. of Polpeer cove which deserves particular notice, as, being situated at an angle of the coast, and having two entrances, one on each side of the point, two different rock- framed views are commanded from the interior. It can be reached from the shore only when the tide is out. From Polpeer the traveller will ascend the rocks, passing the studio of the localized artist, Mr. Hart, to the lighthouses on the 2 m. Lizard Point, the Ocrinum of Ptolemy, and the most southerly pro montory of England, aud generally the first land made by ships upon entering the Channel. The two large and substantially built Lighthouses, the bases of which are 1 86 ft. above the sea, were erected in 1792, by Thomas Fonnereau, under the direc tion of the Trinity House, and were worked by coal fires up to the year 1813. The Electric Light has su perseded the use of oil-lamps, and is much more effective, being visible out at sea a distance of 20 m. A covered way connects the 2 towers for the convenience of the watchmen. These beacons display two lights, to distinguish the Lizard from Scilly, Boute 28. — Lizard Point — Lion's Den. 91 known to mariners by one, and from Guernsey, which exhibits three. Not withstanding, however, the brilliant rays thrown for miles over the sea, ships, embayed in thick weather be tween the Lizard and Tol Pedn Penwith, are frequently lost in the vicinity of this headland, and the cliffs are of such a character that it is almost impossible to render from them the slightest assistance. As an additional protection a Fog Organ has been erected under the cliffs, and in foggy weather, moved by a steam-engine, bellows forth in loud and hoarse warnings. These are at times so unpleasantly loud as to disturb the slumbers of the resi dents at Lizard Town. A dan gerous reef of rocks, called the Stags, projecting under water from the headland, is the cause of the great danger in doubling the Lizard. The fields near the point are based upon hornblende and talco-micaceous slate, and the traveller who has journeyed hither by the road from Helston will be struck by the contrast between the fertility of this patch and the barren ness which has accompanied him over the serpentine. A single acre of this land is rented by the year for 4/., and, sown with barley, has produced the extraordinary crop of 90 bushels, the average produce in England being 35£ bushels. A more beautiful and interesting walk than that along the coast from Polpeer to Lizard Cove can hardly be imagined, affording as it does an uninterrupted succession of sea views over gigantic cliffs, rocky headlands, quiet coves, bays, islets, and promon tories. On an opposite height stands the Telegraph Station, an extensive and well-managed establishment whence the arrival of every ship as it nears the coast, is signalled along the wires to London and all parts of England. Near this the Telegraph cable of the Silver Bank Company from Bilboa reaches the shore. The point below the lighthouses is prolonged at low water to a columnar rock called the Bumble, which at other times is insulated. On the E. the land slopes to a bay, and in this direction, near the edge of the cliff, is the Lion's Den, a circular chasm which was formed February, 1847, and explains the origin of similar cavities, such as the Frying-pan at Cadgewith. It seems tolerably evi dent that the washing of the waves below must have excavated a cave in the softer part of the rock, which being continued, in the course of time caused a landslip from above, depriving the cave of its roof and leaving behind a crater, which is now entered by the sea through an arch way at high water, and in rough weather bears a fanciful resemblance to a huge boiling caldron. From the Lizard the pedestrian may walk by the cliffs to Cadgewith. The road from the village of Lizard Town is uninteresting. Beyond the Lion's Den he will find the romantic cove and bay of Househole, terminated by Penolver, the grandest headland to the E. of the Lizard ; and then a recess in cliffs which are surmounted by slopes of turf, forming the Amphitheatre of Bc- lidden. E. of Belidden is the Chair, a rock most conveniently placed for the foot-weary pedestrian, as it com mands a beautiful view of the coast towards the Lizard. Beyond the Chair are the Beast, or Bass Boint, and the Hot Boint, where the coast sweeps to the northward, displaying that fine bay which terminates at the Black Head, and opening to view the distant points of the Dodmen and Rame Head. After passing a cove called Kilkobben, the traveller will reach Perranvose or Pamvose or Lizard Cove, the harbour of the parish. By a steep road up the narrow valley the traveller may return to Lizard Town (1 m.), passing its parish ch. of 92 Boute 28. The Lizard. — 28a. Falmouth to Penzance. Landewednack, where the last Corni sh sermon, according to Borlase, was preached in 1678. It is the most southerly eh. in England. The chancel (restored by the rector) and transept are Dec. The S. porch has a groined stone roof. The inner doorway is Norm., with a zigzag moulding, enclosing beneath it a Perp. arch. There is a squint or hagioscope between the choir and transept, and a Norm. font. This unpretending ch. and the adjoining parsonage, &c, are well sheltered by choice trees, firs, cypress, and tama risks, displaying care and taste in the incumbent. The pulpit (modern) is of serpentine ; and there are tomb stones of polished serpentine in the ch.- yard. A part of the ch.-yard contains the graves of a number of persons who died of the plague in 1645. Between the ch. and Lizard Town is an old granite Cross. Those who are fond of exploring the lonely caverns of a rocky shore should take boat at Parnvose, and thus pursue their journey to Cadge with, passing the Raven's Bugo and Dolor Bugo, a grand and solemn cavern, with a gorgeous portal of serpentine, and in all states of the tide is filled with the sea, which, entering it with hoarse murmurs, disappears in its gloomy recesses. The Balk of Landewednack is a re markable cliff, and is pierced with quarries of serpentine suited for polishing. A circuitous carriage road leads from Lizard Town by St. Ruan Minor, where it may be prudent to alight, and descend on foot the very steep hill, to 2 j m. Cadgewith {i.e. scedgewith = privet) {Inn: small), a pretty fish ing village, in a deep notch opening to the sea wash between high cliffs ; some of which to the N. produce the serpentine specimens best adapted for the lathe and polish. The chief object of coming hither' is to see a natural crater in the rock, called the Frying Pan, to reach which the visitor must ascend the hill to rt., as high and steep as that he has just descended. Making his way through a farmyard he will reach the edge of the basin called the Devil's Frying- pan, the area of which is nearly 2 acres, and the sides 200 ft. deep. At the top of the flood the sea enters it through a natural arch which opens to the shore, where an apparent pas sage of hornblende slate into serpen tine may be seen. The probable origin of such hollows bordering on the sea, like the Bullars of Buchan in Aberdeenshire, has been explained above (p. 91). The roof of the cave having fallen in except the entrance archway, has left behind a deep hollow in the cliff. On the whole it appears more curious than beautiful. Near Cadgewith are the villages of Grade and Ruan Minor. The pathway along the cliffs from Cadgewith to Falmouth for pedes trians is described in Rte. 28c. ROUTE 28a. FALMOUTH TO PENZANCE, BY HEL STON AND MARAZION. — THE LIZARD. Rly. (see Rte. 26) to 3J m. Penryn Stat. An omnibus to Helston runs daily from Penryn, the first stat. out of Falmouth, on the rly. to Truro. It passes in the vicinity of the Mabe Boute 28a. — Helston— Loe Pool. 93 Granite quarries, and the country for some distance round is covered with surface-granite and roughened by earns. One of these is likened to the head of a man, surmounted by an old- fashioned wig, and a spring of water gushes from the summit of another. 3 m. N. of Helston is St. Wendron, where the ch. is mainly Dec. with good E. window. There are Brasses for Warin Penhallinyk, prebendary of Glaseney, 1535, and for a civilian name unknown, c. 1580. 2 m. W. is Sithuly, where the ch. has a hand some Perp. tower, ornamented with figures of the evangelists. Notice a Cross Brass for Roger Trelbythyanyk (date gone), and a modern Brass for Canon Rogers, of Penrose, 1856. 14j m. Belston. {Inns: Angel, good; Star. An omnibus runs daily at 10.30 from the Angel Hotel to Lizard Town ; returning at 4.15.) Flys and waggonettes may be hired at the Helston Inns for the excur sion to the Lizard, about 10 m. S., fully described in Ktes. 28, 28b., 28c. Helston (Pop. 3843) is pleasantly situated on a hill, and above a pretty valley opening to the sea some 3 m . off. In Domesday it is called Benlistone. It is an ancient town, and on the site of the present B mUug-green once rose a castle, now swept away. For more than 500 years it returned 2 members to Parliament. Since the Reform Bill it is reduced to 1. The Church was rebuilt 176o. Very little copper is now raised in this district, the richest mines being worked out and deserted. Furry -day is a festival which from time immemorial has been annually held in Helston on the' 8th of May, and has been traced by antiquaries to so remote a source as the Roman Floralia. Polwhele, how ever, derives the name from the Cornish word feur, a fair or holiday, and suggests that it may have been | instituted in honour of a victory obtained over the Saxons. This is doubtful. The morning is ushered in by the merry-pealing bells, and at about 9 o'clock the people assemble and demand a prescriptive holiday. After this they collect contributions to defray the expense of the revels, and then proceed into the fields. About noon they return, carrying flowers and branches, and from this time until dusk dance hand-in-hand through the streets, and in and out of the houses, the doors of which were formerly kept open on purpose to allow the string of dancers to pass through, preceded by a fiddler play ing an ancient air called the furry- tune, now exchanged for a Volunteer band. The Furry tune may be re garded as a county air, and is heard at all seasons in Penzance and other Cornish towns. It will be found, with the words, in Chappell's ' Na tional English Airs.' There is nothing worth particular notice in Helston, but in general it is the starting-point for an excursion to the Lizard, and the neighbourhood can boast some pretty scenery. A favourite walk is to the Loe Pool — i.e. "Lake Pool" — (| m. to the head of the lake, 2 m. to the bar at the lower end), the largest sheet of water in the county. A stream called the Cober (from cobra, an old word signifying serpentine or sinu ous), rising near Carnmenellis (alt. 822 ft.), and flowing by Helston, me anders thence towards the sea. This stream, being obstructed at the shore by a bar of small pebbles, has spread over the lower part of the valley and formed a lake about 7 m. in circum ference. During the summer the water gradually filters through the barrier ; but in wet seasons it cannot pass off with a rapidity equal to its influx, and then it frequently rises 10 ft. above its usual level, and accumulates so as to stop the mills which are situated upon the tributary streams. When 94 Boute 28a. — Falmouth to Penzance by Helston. this occurs the corporation, according to an ancient custom, present the lord of the manor with a leathern purse, containing three-halfpence, and solicit permission to open the bar. This being of course granted, the mayor of Helston engages work men for the purpose, and, a small trench being cut in the sand, the pent-up waters rapidly enlarge it, and ultimately sweep the entire obstruc tion into the sea. The spectacle is really a fine one. The bar thus removed for a time is in a few days thrown up as before. In 1807 the Anson, a 40-gnn ship, was wrecked upon it, with the loss of its gallant commander, Capt. Lydiard, and about 60 of the crew. The lake (until spoiled by mine-water) was a pretty object, embosomed in trees, and abounded with a peculiar trout and other fresh-water fish. On its shingly banks the botanist may find Corrigiola littoralis, or strapwort, a rare plant. The woods of Penrose (J. Jope Rogers, Esq.), a seat once belonging to the Penrose family, are the principal or nament of the Loe Valley, and afford a delightful walk from the bar to Helston. At one spot the park wall ' returns a remarkable echo, by which, in serene weather, a sound is repeated six or seven times. On the opposite side of the lake is Nansloe Bouse (P. Vyvyan Eobinson, Esq.), a property held on the tenure of providing a boat and nets for the Duke of Corn wall whenever he may choose to fish in the Loe Pool. Helston to Marazion and Si. Michael's Mount, lj m. A road on the 1. leads to Porthleven, a small seaport situated in the centre of the Mount's Bay, and about 1^ m. W. of the Loe Bar. The harbour has been constructed at a great expense, and, from its position on a wild dangerous coast, would be of extreme value if more easy of access. In tempestuous wea ther, however, wdien such a refuge is required, it is scarcely possible to enter it, since the mouth is narrow, and the sea sets into it with extreme violence. The geologist will find much to interest him in the rugged shore of this neighbourhood, espe cially some fine sections of trap dikes cutting the slate. At Treioavas Head, W. of Porthleven (Trewavas, i. e. " dwelling of the mole," "shaped like a mole-hill"), granite, extending from Tregonning and Godolphin Hill, abuts upon the sea in magnificent cliffs. On this imposing headland are the remains of a forsaken mine, formerly worked under the sea; a columnar pile of granite called the Bishop Rock; and a raised beach, associated with rocks worn smooth by the waves, though now far above their reach. 1 m. St. Breage (pronounced Bra- gue), said to have been founded by St. Breaca, an Irish saint, lj m. N.E. of it is the tin-mine of Huel Vor (i.e. great work), at one time considered the richest tin-mine in the county. Lodes have been here found of the unusual width of 30 ft, and so rich withal as to reward the adventurers with a clear profit of 10,000?. in 3 months. The old work ings extend for more than a mile and a quarter under-ground. The Church is interesting as containing the re mains of Mrs. Godolphin, the " dearest- friend" of John Evelyn, who has "consecrated her worthy life to pos terity." (Evelyn's ' Life of Mrs. Godolphin.' It was edited by the late Dr. Wilberforce, Bp. of Win chester.) Notice in the ch. some old helmets, with the dolphin crest of the Godolphins. In this neighbourhood, on N., an insulated mass of granite, separated by a channel of slate from the granitic district of Wendron andCrowan, con stitutes the striking eminences of Boute 28a. — Tregonning Hill — Prussia Cove. 95 Tregonning (or Tregonan) Hill (596 ft.) and Gaiolphin Bill (495 ft), which rise from bases desolated by the miner. Tregonan (properly Tre- Conan = Conan's dwelling)is crowned by the earth-works of a hill-castle — the inner vallum, 15 ft. high, was faced externally with rude rubble masonry — and shelters from westerly gales the old mansion of Godolphin, situ ated below it on the eastern side, a quadrangular building of granite, studded with windows, and fronted by a handsome portico. It formerly belonged to the family of Godolphin, which became extinct in 1785, and is now the property of the Duke of Leeds and occupied as a farmhouse. It is a venerable object, grey with age, but is closely beset by mining works. The curious mode of claim ing a reserved rent for the lords of the manor of Lamburne, mentioned by Hals and Davies Gilbert, is still observed here on Candlemas Day. The minister of Queen Anne, connected by marriage with the great Duke of Marlborough, was the most eminent of the Godolphin family. Part of this hill is worked for china-clay, which is shipped at St. Michael's Mount and Porthleven. These quarries were the first to be opened in this country, and they supplied the clay with which the earliest Plymouth china was made. The northern side of Tregonning has been lately brought under the plough. Godolphin Hill is the site of Huel Vor, or the Great Work tin- mine. Various etymologies have been proposed for the name of Godolphin : " Godawth," half-melted, dissolved, in allusion to the soft granite or kaolin, and " goon," a down ; or "Godawth" and "gwyp," white; or " Coed," woods, and " alcan," tin. Neither of these seems entirely satisfactory. ' 2 m. rt. is the village of Germoe (pop. 1015), founded, according to tradition, by Germoch, a king of Ireland, who is said to have landed at Hayle in the year 460. The Church is Dec, originally cruciform, but a Perp. N. aisle has taken the place of the transept. Notice the gable cross of the porch aud the grotesque cor bels. Notice also on the N. side of the churchyard a singular structure, po pularly known as St. Germoe' s Chair, and said to have been built by the MillitonsofPengersick. It is a stone seat, placed in a recess, which is or namented with pointed arches, pil lars, and the rude sculpture of a hu man head. About 1 m. 1. of the road, in a bottom near the coast, stands Pengersick Castle, consisting of two towers (temp. Hen. VIII.), which were once united to a castellated edifice. The larger is built in three stories, and the other contains a winding flight of stairs which lead to the summit of the tower. The walls, which are loopholed, are lined with a wainscoting, decorated with carving, and inscribed with several quaint pieces of poetry, illustrated by paintings, much defaced, aud now hardly intelligible. Pengersick, or Pen-giveras-ike, sig nifies the head ward of the cove. Ac cording to tradition it was built in the reign of Henry VIII., by a mer chant, who, as the story goes, acquired so large a fortuue at sea, that, when he loaded an ass with his gold, the weight of it broke the poor animal's back. At Sidney Cove, below the castle, a mine has been opened, on which has been bestowed fie good historic name of Sidney Godolphin. Further W., between Pengersick and Cuddan Point, is Prussia Cove, so named from a smuggler, who here constructed and mounted in the cliff a formidable bat tery ; but, to disguise and favour his real occupation, acted as landlord at an adjoining public-house, called the King of Prussia. At length Carter, 95 Boute 28a. — Falmouth to Penzance. for such was his name, came to blows with the authorities, and, un masking his guns, fired into the Fairy sloop of war, which thereupon sent its boats against the battery, and de stroyed it. In the time of Carter, about 1780, the smuggler was re garded almost in the light of a mer chant, and such was the latitude allowed him by law, that no goods could be seized above high-water mark. Immediately W. of this bay is the romantic recess called Bessie's Cove. 400 yds. beyond Pengersick lane end, in a field called Tremenke- verne, 1. of the road, lie several large blocks of an iron gritstone known by the same name, and con nected with the following legend. In the olden time, when saints were rife in Cornwall, St. Just of the Land's End paid a visit to St. Keverne, who, residing near the Lizard, entertained him hospitably for several days. After St. Just's departure, however, St. Keverne missed sundry pieces of plate, and, suspecting the honesty of his late guest, hastened after him to ascertain the correctness of his surmises. Upon passing over Crousa Down the idea of resistance flashed across his mind, and he forthwith pocketed three large stones, each weighing about a quarter of a ton, and thus armed continued the pursuit. He overtook his saintly brother at a short distance from Breage, and immediately charged him with the robbery. St. Just feigned great astonishment at so serious an accusa tion, high words ensued, and from words the disputants soon came to blows. St. Keverne, however, so plied his pocket ammunition, that the affray was shortly terminated by the flight of St. Just, who, making the most of his heels, disburdened himself as he ran of the missing arti cles. The fight being thus satisfac torily concluded, St. Keverne had no further need of his cumbersome weapons, and accordingly left them on the ground, where they remain to this day, unquestionable monuments of saintly prowess. It is a curious circumstance that the sienitic rock, of which the boulders are composed, and which is called iron-stone from its excessive hardness, is foreign to this district, whilst blocks of it are scattered over Crousa Down in the greatest abundance. Possibly these boulders were ice-borne from the North. At Cuddan (i.e. dark, gloomy) Boint the geologist will find trappean rocks associated with argillaceous slate in a manner that would lead the observer to assign them a con temporaneous origin. The dark headland bears some resemblance to the promontory of the Start. E. of Cuddan Point, a short J m., is Bessie's Cove, a rocky recess, and home of fishermen — a very romantic spot. A fisherman's cottage stands above the precipice, and below are caverns, over which hang branches of the tamarisk. The largest cave has been filled up, since it threatened to undermine the cottage. Acton Castle is situated upon the cliffs W. of Cuddan Point. The lo cality is wild and unsheltered, and the castle commands a prospect of extraordinary beauty. It was erected as a marine residence by the late John Stackhouse, Esq., and was for some years occupied by the late Admiral Praed. Rt. a lane to Goldsithney, a village (on the Camborne and Marazion road) distinguished for its annual fair on Aug. 5, and for a beautiful view of the Mount and Mount's Bay, which first greet the traveller from the Goldsithney hills ; 1. a lane to St. Perran-uthnoe (i.e. Perran the ele vated or "highest"), on the coast between Cuddan Point and Mara zion. The Church is mainly Perp. (the chancel rebuilt, 18b'l), and has Boute 28b. — Helston to the Lizard. 97 some curious sculptured heads as the terminations of the hood mould of the S. door. The square granite font is of early date. Near it is a rocky recess in which a Cornish legend lands an ancestor of the Trevelyans, who, according to the story, was swept into the sea with the fabled , Lyonesse and its 140 churches, and was borne to this cove by the marvel lous swimming of his horse. After parsing Perran-uthnoe, J m. from Marazion, there is a very fine view from the high ground with Huel Halamanning on the rt, where a road branches off for Truro and Redruth. From this point all the hills of the Land's End lie in view, and the eye ranges from Mousehole and Paul Ch. to Knill's Monument at St. Ives. In the far W. rises Chapel Carnbrea, and N. the sandy towans glitter in the sun. Between this point and the turnpike we obtain one of the best views of St. Michael's Mount in connection with the distant coast and Penzauce. On the shore are the Mount's Bay Mine, and a rich tract of land on which the " Market Jew" turnips are grown. Marazion Stat., from which St. Michael's Mount is to be visited (for both places, see Rte. 29) ; and 3 m. further, Penzance Termiwis (see Rte. 27). [Cornwall.] EOTJTE 28b. HELSTON TO THE LIZARD. Cliff Path for Pedestrians {see Map). Commencing a survey of the coast at the western termination of that long shingly beach which extends from Porthleven to the fishing village of Gunwalloe, the traveller will pass the precipitous Halzaphron (i.e. West ern Sea) Cliffs, and reach the Church of Gunwalloe — a lonely and picturesque 15th-centy. structure, of no great architectural interest, continually sprinkled with the spray of the sea, and having a detached belfry built on solid rock against a steep ascent W. of the ch. ; the rock forms a por tion of the W„ N„ and S. walls. Many shipwrecks have occurred here ; and the ch. is said to have been an offering from a survivor, who vowed he would build it where the sounds of prayer and praise should blend with the voice of the waves from which he had escaped. The ch. is ded. to St. Winwaloe, who lived here as a hermit, and died 529, Abbot of Landeveneck in Brit tany. [2 m. inland from Gunwalloe is the Church of St. Cury or St.. Corantyne, who was, says tradition, consecrated bishop of Cornwall by St. Martin, and after converting all the district, died 401. The S. doorway is Norm., the ch. itself mainly late Dec. A remarkable hagioscope is formed at the junction of the chancel and tran- , sept " by a large chamfer of the angle, supported by a detached shaft and arches to small responds of similar character." There are simi lar hagioscopes at Landewednack and St. Mawgan (see post). Either this ch. or that of Menheniot in East Cornwall (both ded. to St. Co- 98 Boute 28b. — Helston to the Lizard. rantyn) was the first in which the Liturgy was read in English. In the churchyard is a monolithic cross, 9 ft. high.] From Gunwalloe we reach li m. Poljew, a sandy cove, where the coast assumes a character of grandeur. A short distance from Poljew is 1 m. Bellurian Cove, known to geolo gists for its conglomerate, which, containing fragments of grauwacke limestone, appears to support the hornblende slate. The descent to it commands a striking view of Mullion Island, which is about a mile in circumf, and hears a resemblance to the figure of a huge animal crouching in the sea. The passage between this island and the mainland is called the Gap. The cliffs to the 1. are crowned by the Cathedral, a pin nacled group of rocks, to which the stranger should climb for a prospect over the Mount's Bay. He can then descend to that romantic recess 1 m. Mullion Cove (see Rte. 28). 1 m. inland of the spot is Prada- nack Cross. Oi m. up the valley from the cove The village of Mullion, with its venerable Perp. Church, described in Rte. 28. Proceeding again along the brow of the cliffs (the path is no longer than the road to Lizard, 7 m.), the traveller will observe below him the Mullion Gull Bock detached from the shore ; and then visit in succes sion the grand promontory of Pra- danack Head and Vellan Point, from which the cliffs sink to a sheltered recess called 3 m. Gue-graze, hut better known by the name of the Soap Rock. This is situated in the ravine leading down to the cove, and consists of serpen tine traversed by large veins of stea tite, a dull white substance, which, being unctuous to the touch, has originated the name of Soap Rock. Steatite is pure magnesia, and is the "French chalk" used by tailors and bootmakers. It was formerly em ployed in the potteries, and largely quarried at this spot. Just S. of Gue-graze is a sheer precipice of 250 ft., pierced at the base by a cavern called Pigeon's Hugo (pron. ougo ; in the Land's End dis trict pron. fflgo and fagau ; Welsh, Ogof, a cave). It is accessible only from the water and during the finest weather. The Horse, a narrow ridge slanting to the sea, is the next feature of interest; and then the bold head land of *the Rill, commanding a superb prospect over the Mount's Bay and the best general view of the clustered rocks of Kinance Cove. On its summit is the Apron-string, a heap of stones which the country people aver were brought to this spot by the Devil. He came hither, they say, with an apron full of stones to build a bridge across the Channel for the convenience of smugglers, and was hurrying with his load to the edge of the cliff, when his apron-string broke, the stones were thrown to the. ground, and in despair he abandoned his enterprise. J m. from the Rill is the far celebrated Kynance Cove (see Rte. 28). Proceeding again on our route along the coast, we ascend at once to the Tor Balk, or Tar Box, an excel lent point of view for Kinance Cove ; and then cross a hollow to the Yellow Cam, a precipice 200 ft. high, separated by the sea from an in sulated rock called Innis Yean — i.e. lit.le island. Beyond it we soon reach a remarkable spot known as Holestrow, where the face of the cliff has fallen in ruins. To Holestrow succeeds Caerthillian, a ravine chiselled by a stream which flows through it to the sea, and of interest as the point where the mica- slate of the Lizard rises from beneath the serpentine, and further remark- Boute 28c— The Lizard— Cadgewith to Falmouth. able for its botanical rarities, such as Lotus hispidus, Trifolium bocconi, T. mollinerii, and T. striatum ; the three species of trefoil, according to Mr. Johns, being peculiar to this part of Cornwall and of England. From Caerthillian a walk of some 20 min. will bring the wanderer to the Old Lizard Bead, -where he will rest awhile to admire the view ; and then proceed to the sandy cove and fishing- village of Polpeer, Rte. 28. ROUTE 28c. THE LIZARD— CADGEWITH TO FALMOUTH. Pedestrian Route by Belford Ferry. The usual course is to return from Cadgewith direct to Helston ; but those who should be desirous of com pleting a survey of the Lizard district will find references below to locali ties which deserve attention (see Map). First, the romantic Valley of Pol- tesco, about 2 m. E., is well worth ex ploring by all who are fond of wild and rocky scenery. Calleon Cove is its termination on the shore. Kennack Cove, further E., is a pretty cove with a sandy beach ; and the Black He:id, a bare and gloomy promontory, but remarkable for the beauty of its ser pentine. This rock beyond Cadge with assumes a dark green colour, and constitutes the coast round the Black Head to Covcrack Cove (about 6 m. from Cadgewith),' to the geologist a very interesting spot, since the great mass of serpentine is here suc- 99 ceeded by a beautiful rock, which continues along the shore as far as the Manacles, and predominates in the interior through the greater part of the parish of St. Keverne. It appears to have compact felspar for its base, in which are embedded crystals both of diallage and horn blende. This cove was the scene of the shipwreck of the 'Dispatch,' in Jan. 1809, when Major-Gen. Caven dish, and more than 60 other officers and soldiers, returning from Corunna, perished ; they have a monument in the neighbouring ch. of St. Ke verne. At Coverack, between the pier and the rivulet, veins of the latter mineral may be seen traversing the serpentine ; aud here also you may obtain specimens of striated felspar of a violet colour, and, below high- water mark, pieces of diallage metalloide 6 or 8 inches in length. The village is exceedingly pictu resque, and in its vicinity is " a little mill, the smallest you ever saw, kept jogging by a tiny rill." — C.A.J. On the high ground of Crousa (Cross) Down, N.W., are the large masses of diallage rock called the Brothers of Grugith {i.e. " of the heath"). 77k; Manacles are rocks well known and dreaded by all coasters. The name is a corruption of " Maen eglos," i.e. church stone. About 2 m. N.E. of Crousa Down iies the church-town of St. Keverne. The country people have a saying that no metal wilt run within the sound of St. Keverne' s bells, and account for it by a legend that their patron saint, having been treated with disrespect by the inhabitants, denounced a curse upon the parish. However, a belt of land situated between the church and Coverack Cove possesses such ex traordinary fertility that it has been called the Garden of Cornwall. Its richness is attributed to the decom position of hornblende, diallage, and felspar. The Church, which is the largest in the W. of Cornwall, is fl 2 100 Boute 28c. — The Lizard to Falmouth. mainly Perp. (parts of the N. aisle are E. Eng.). Many original bench- ends remain. The oak from which they are made is traditionally said to have been grown on Crousa Down (down of the cross), now a wilderness of rocks. The geologist will find schistose greenstone, cut by veins of diallage, on the shore at Par thoustock ; a bed of serpentine, which has the appearance of having been thrust up violently among the hornblende slates, between Dranna Point and Porthalla, N. of St. Ke verne ; and a pudding-stone, or con glomerate, composed of rounded frag ments of slate, in which veins of quartz are visible, near the Dennis Creek, S. of St. Anthony. In the sea off St. Keverne lie those dangerous rocks called the Manacles (see ante), in May, 1855, the scene of the ship wreck of the emigrant ship 'John,' with the loss of 191 lives. Manaccan, i.e. "the Monks," 1^ m. S.W. has become celebrated by the discovery of titanium in its vicinity. The mineral which contained this metal was found in the stream of Tre- gonwell Mill, and was a titaniferous iron. Manaccan Church is E. Eng. (chan cel and transept — the chancel roof is perhaps original). The S. doorway is E. Norm., and one of the best examples in Cornwall. Out of the S. wall of the nave grows a large fig- tree — the diameter of the trunk being about 10 inches. Manaccan is also known in Cornwall as having been the residence of the Rev. R. Polwhele, author of a history of the county, who for several years was rector of this and the adjoining parish of St. Anthony. Tremayneran old house in the parish of St. Martin, once be longed to Captain Wallis, who dis covered Otaheite, and was born near Camelford. From this old seat the family of Tremayue of Heligan took their name. (Tremayne means " the town place," or " dwelling near the stone," i.e. some remarkable stone.) It is now the property of Rev. Sir Vyells Vyvyan. 2 m. W. of Manaccan St. Anthony in Meneage (i.e. stony district), stands on a neck of land between the Helford river and the Durra, an exceedingly pretty spot. The Church of St. Anthony is situ ated on the shore at the base of a promontory called Dinas, and at high water is but little elevated above the surface of the sea. It originated, according to a legend, in the following manner: some per sons of rank sailing from Normandy to England were overtaken by a storm, when they made a vow to St. Anthony to build him a church if he would guide the ship into a place of safety. The saint acceded to their supplication and conducted the vessel into Gillan Harbour, and the passengers, mindful of their promise, erected the church upon the spot where they landed. The small size of this parish favours the idea that it was severed from Ma naccan on some occasion of this kind. The chancel may be E. E., but the rest is Early Perp. ; the font, which is ornamented with angels bearing shields, is as old as the chancel. Grea and Little Dinas are two ancient entrenchments com manding the entrance of the river, and were occupied as military posts during the civil war of Charles. The latter was taken by Fairfax in 1646, but is now a rabbit warren. The Belford River, about 1 m. wide at the mouth, branches into pictu resque creeks, which penetrate the country in various directions. It is said by Carew to have been in former days much frequented by pirates, " whose guilty breasts," he adds, "with an eye in their backs, look warily how they may go out again." On its shore, by Manaccan, is Bosa- han Bouse, T. Grylls, Esq. About i m. N. of Manaccan is Boute 29. — Penzance to St. Michael's Mount, 101 Helford, a hamlet prettily embowered in trees, and the Ferry across the Helford River or creek, here nearly a mile broad, which leaves a wide expanse of soft mud bare at low tide. Hence a good road runs in 6J m. to Falmoutu (in Rte. 26). There is also a cross field-path leading to the Coast-Guard stat. and Swan- pool, along the cliff to Falmouth. ROUTE 29. PENZANCE TO THE LIZARD, BY MARA ZION, st. Michael's mount, and Penzance to St. Michael's Mount: 3 m. by road, 2 m. by water ; or by train to Marazion Boad. Stat., which is 1 1 m. from the Mount. N.B. St Michael's Mount being an island 8 hrs. out of the 24, the visitor starting from Penzance about 3 hours before low water will be able to cross to it on foot by the rough stone causeway J m. long, connecting it with the shore, without having recourse to boats, which are few and not handy, and cost 5s. or 6s. for a party. At neap tides and in rough weather the causeway remains under water 2 or 3 days together. The road to St. Michael's Mount leaves Penzance by its suburb Chyan dour, — Chy-au-dour, i.e., "house by the water" — in which are the Tin smelting-houses 'and tannery of the Messrs. Bolitho. It crosses Chyandour . Brook, which descends in a muddy stream from Ding-Dong tin-mine. It then starts fairly for Marazion, the view of the bay and its fabled Mount being hid by the sea-wall and rly. embankment, by the side of which it runs, skirting on 1. the Eastern Green and some low marshy land now drained in part. Tliis consists mainly of a bed of peat from 3 to 8 ft. thick, covers a bed of sea-sand 12 ft. deep, and below that a so- called " submarine forest" — oaks and hazel prostrate, and lying in all di rections. A similar " forest " extends W. of Penzance for some distance. The road passes along the shore to Mirazi n Stat, or Market-Jew, a name still applied to it by the country people {Inn, Dolphin), a- town in ancient times supported by the pilgrims who resorted to the shrine of St. Michael. Marazion (pop. 1545) is generally said to have been named by the Jews, who had here their market for tin ; though the learned researches of Pi of. Max Miiller have failed to discover any connection whatever between the Jews and this place. " Marghas," " maras " (Cornish), is a market ; Ion and iou are both plural termi nations ; so that "marghasion" and " marghas-iou " both signify the " markets," and afford satisfactory etymologies for both "Marazion" and " Market-Jew. ' That Marazion was a very ancient smelting-place for tin is proved by the discovery, in 1849, of the fragments of a bronze furnace within a rude building of unhewn stones near the western boundary of the town. The town was pillaged by the French in the reign of Hen. VIII., and again by the Cornish rebels in that of Edward VI., and owing to the suppression of the priory, and the growing importance of Penzance, it never recovered its former prosperity. The parish Church is St. Hilary, 1 m. E., burnt, except the tower, in 1853. This is of Early Dec. date, and very hand- 102 Boute 2d.— St. Michael's Mount. some. The geologist will find be tween this place and the Greeb Point, at low water, the back of a fault well displayed. A causeway 400 yds. long, but flooded 8 hrs. out of the 12 by the tide, runs from the beach to St. Michael's Mount, skirting on the rt. an insulated mass of green stone, resting on clay-slate, called the Chapel Rock, and once crowned with a chapel, at which the pilgrim halted before climbing the Mount. There are now no traces of such a building ; but Leland mentions it. At the base of the Mount lies a fishing-town of 38 houses with a Pop. of 132, furnished with a harbour capable of admitting vessels of 500 tons. It was visited in 1846 by the Queen and P. Albert ; an event commemo rated by a metal tablet in the wall of the E. pier, and by a brass foot step marking the spot on which her Majesty placed her foot on landing. From the sea the hill rises abruptly to a height of 230 ft., its margin of sea being about 1 m. in circumf. The body of the hill is of granite, but its N. base of slate ; and from this circumstance, as exhibiting various phenomena at the junction of these formations, this rock of St Michael has excited some geological controversy. A section on the N.W. side of the rock shows 2 irregular patches of granites bedded in the slate, with veins of quartz traversing both slate and granite. The visitor ascends to the summit by a rocky path, winding and stony, the same by which the pilgrims of old plodded their way up, guided hy a granite CVoss. After kissing the relics and paying their fee to the priest, they descended by another path on the opposite side, where another cross still marks the way. At the foot of the rock is a draw- well about 6 fath. deep, and a little way up a tank called the Giant's Well. The Castle is now approached by a modem lodge and archway. An open flight of steps leads to the entrance, in front of which is a small battery mounted with guns. Hence the view is very fine. The original building was not only a fortress, but included a church also, which con tained the slu ine of the Archangel, a much frequented resort of pilgrims from all quarters of Europe. The oldest part remaining is the Central Tower of 14th or 15th centy. ; other portions and insertions are Perp. Gothic. Early in the present centy. (1820) it was fitted up as a dwelling in the "Carpenter Gothic" style, and the present owner, Sir John St. Aubyn, has very properly re placed this by more suitable con structions. The interior is not very interesting; the owner allows it to be seen in the absence of the family, and the housekeeper demands a good fee. The principal rooms are the hall and the chapel. The hall was the refectory of tUe monks, and is now called the Chevy Chase Room, because surrounded by a cornice representing beasts of the chase. At the upper end of this apartment are the royal arms and date 1660; at the lower the escutcheon of St. Aubyn. The door is old and of Perp. date ; the oaken roof in the style of that of Crosby Hall. lt contains some old furniture. The dwelling-rooms are principally re markable for the views they com mand, and for a quiet disturbed by the deep murmur of the sea alone, or the noise of the howling wind. The rooms, erected by Sir John St. Aubyn, upon the site of the ancient conventual build ings, are surrounded by an elevated and broad terrace with an open granite parapet, and contain some family portraits, besides a very pretty picture by Opie of his niece Miss Burns, andauother by the same artist of Dolly Pentreath. At the E. end of the building is a handsome cross, and on the S. side a garden. Boute 29. — St. Michael's Mount : History. 103 Following this ten ace you reach a double flight of steps, surmounted by an od sculptured Cross, which leads into the chapel of Peip. date, with a tower on the N. side. The windows are Perp., except the E. window, which is modern. The stalls were put up in 1804. The chandelier re presents St. Michael, surmounted by the Virgin and Child. During the repairs a low Gothic doorway was discovered in the S. wall : it was closed by masonry, and had been con cealed by a platform, but, upon being opened, revealed a flight of steps lead ing to a vault, in which were found the bones of a large man but no traces of a coffin ; a mysterious cir cumstance which gave rise to many conjectuies as to the fate of the indi vidual who had been here immure d. From the chapel a staircase leads to the top of the Tower, which should be ascended for the sake of the prospect, aud also tor a view of the stone lan tern on its S.W. angle. This tower, dating from the early part of the 15th centy., is the most ancient por tion of ihe building, and the loftiest. Its summit is 250 ft above the sands. The lantern is popularly called St. MichaeVs Chair, since it will just allow of one person silting down in it ; but this, a common feat, is not devoid of risk, as the lantern projects, and it requires a dexterous move ment of the body to return to the tower. Ladies, however, not un frequently find courage for the ad venture, as there is a conceit that the husband or wife who first obtains a seat in ihis chair will then by gain the ascendency in domestic affairs. It was undoubtedly a stone lantern or beacon, by which the fishermen were guided to their port in the win ter; the grooves for the glass, and holes for the bars, remaining distinct. (The will of Sir J< hn Arundell, 1433, gives 13s. 4d. to the light of St. Michac 1 in the Mount. A similar lighthouse existed on the top of the chapel of St. Nicholas at Ilfi acombe.) History. The old Cornish name of the Mount, according to Carew, was Caruclouse in Coicse, " carreg cleug in coes," usually interpreted the Grey Bock in the Wood ; and seems to favour the tradition that the mount was once clothed with trees and situated some distance from the sea. William of Worcester asserts it positively, and gives the mount the English name of the " Hoar rock in the wood." Prof. Max Muller (' Chips,' vol. iii.) shows that Wor cester confounds the traditions of the Norman Mount . St Michael with the early history of the Cornish, and considers that the English name arose in the monastery from a con fusion between the two places. The Cornish name does not, he suggests, mean the " Hoar Rock in the wood," but "the Old Rock of the tomb": and "Mons Tumba in Cornubia," " St. Michael in Tumba," are used to describe the Cornish mount, after it became connepted with the mount in Normandy — frequently called " Tumba. ' Thus the sup posed authority for the surrounding torest vanishes altogether. If the mount was ever surrounded by wood it must have been in days when the submerged forest of Mount's Bay was flourishing, and this takes us back to the age of the Mammoth and Mastodon. At a very early time this romantic eminence was consecrated to religion. Old legends assert that the archangel St. Michael appeared tosome hermits upon one of its crags; and tradition, pointing to a large rock on the western side, as the spot where this vision was seen, has given it the appellation of St. Michael's Chair, a name erroneously transferred lo the lantern on the tower. Milton in his ' Lycidas ' has alluded to this apparition in the following lines : — " Or whether thou, to our moist vows deny'd Sleep'st by the fable of Bellerus old, 104 Boute 29. — St. Michael's Mount : History. Where the great vision or the guarded Mount Looks toward Namancos and liayona's hold, Look homeward, ungel, now, and melt with ruth, And, 0 ye dolphins, waft the hapless youth." We have notices of the Mount hav ing been a hallowed spot long before Edward the Confessor granted it to St. Michael in Normandy, and there is a legend that in the 5th centy. St. Keyne, a damsel of royal birth, came here on a pilgrimage to the shrine of its tutelary saint. At the Con quest, Edward's monastery fell to the share of Robert Earl of Mortain, who bore the standard of St. Michael in the Norman host, and who con firmed the grant which had already been made by the Confessor, bestow ing St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall on the great Benedictine House of St. Michael " in periculo maris " on the opposite coast of Normandy. The Cornish St. Michael's was at first a mere cell ; but afterwards ob tained a distinct corporate character, am I had a convent, a seal, and a per petual prior. The ruck and build ings are on a small scale compared to those of St. Michnel's in Normandy ; but it is probable that the resem blance of the two rocks suggested the grant of Edward the Confessor. Both Mounts were fortresses as well as religious houres; both con tained garrisons as well as convents ; and it is remarkable that the same tradition of extensive lands and forests submerged by the sea is cur rent of both (but see ante). Under the authority of parliament this priory wa3 transferred by Hen. V. to the new monastery of Sion, to which it belonged until the Disso lution. After that period the families of Arundell of Lanherne, Milliton, Harris, Cecil, and Basset became successively its proprietors, and about the year- 1660 it was sold to the St. Aubyns. It is now the residence of Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart., M.P. for W. Cornwall. The military annals of the Mount commence with King Richard's cap tivity, when Henry de Pomeroy gained possession of the place, and held it in the interest of John. Upon the return of the king, how ever, the garrison surrendered, and, according to the tradition, Pomeroy, in despair, caused himself to be bled to death. In the reign of Edward IV. the Earl of Oxford and some companions, having fled from the field of Barnet, appioached the Mount under the disguise of pil grims, and thus effecting an entrance, prepared to defend themselves to the last extremity. They repulsed seve ral attacks by the sheriff of the county, Sir John Arundell, who was slain on the sands and buried in the Mount Church, and they resisted so manfully as to obtain a pardon. In the reign of Henry VII. Lady Cath erine Gordon, the wife of Perkin Warbeck, here found a temporary asylum, from which she was taken by Lord Daubeny, and delivered to the king. Again, during the rising of the Western Counties in 1549 (Edward VI.), the Mount attracted the notice of the country, when its Governor, Humphrey Arundell of Lanherne, having joined the rebels, it was taken by a party for the king, but retaken by the insurgents, who, passing the sands at low water, stormed the base of the hill, and then the summit, by carrying trusses of hay before them to deaden the shot. They were, however, eventually driven out, and their leader paid the penalty of his treason on the scaffold. The last event of a military nature which occurred at the Mount was its reduction by the parliamentary troops under Colonel Hammond. Upon this occasion the garrison made a stout defence under the com mand of Sir Francis Basset, and upon capitulation obtained permission to retire to the Isles of Scilly. For the antiquary the' Mount of St. Michael possesses additional in terest as having been considered the Boute 30. — Penzance to the Land's End. 105 Iktis of Diod. Siculus, to which the Greek merchants traded for tin. This, however, is at least doubtful ; and if the island can be identified at all, Wight (Vt-ctis) seems to have the best claim. But it is probable that the 'Ictis' of Diodorus represents more than one insulated " empo rium " for tin. (See Introd. for some remarks on this subject, and on the supposed intercourse of the Phoeni cians with Cornwall.) The Route from Mounts Bay to Tlie Lizard is the same as Rte. 28a reversed. ROUTE 30. PENZANCE TO THE IANd's END, RE TURNING BY 1HE LOGAN BOCK AND BCEYAN. 10 m. to Land's End ; first 4 hilly. Omnibuses daily in summer, start ing about 9 ; returning in the even ing ; fare 3s. They stop an hour or two at Land's End and at Treen, near the Logan. The road turns rt. away from Mount's Bay at the fishing village of Newlyn; passes the Gothic church and Tin Smelting Works. It leaves on rt. Castle Horneck — at the top of the bill rt. the direct road to St Just turns off. Among the trees on rt. stands 1 m. Trereife (pronounced Treeve), D. P. Le Grice, Esq. The house is covered with a yew-tree, which has been trained all over it. Observe the i avenues at the junction of the 4 roads. 1 J in. Buryas Bridge. Beyond, rt., is Trewidden, E. Bolitho, Esq. Op posite the lodge an old cross. 2\ m. The village of Driff; on rt. the road to Saucreed ; on 1. a road leading to Paul, and Lamorna Cove ; places, however, which are more accessible from Penzance by the S. road. 3J m. The road 1. leads to Buryan, by which place we propose to re turn. 4 m. The road ascends Tregonebris Hill, remarkable for its musical name. After passing on rt. a large upright stone, it now emerges upon the open furze common, in the midst of which, near a solitary cottage, you must climb "the stone hedge" if you wish to see the Nine Maidens, a small rude-stone circle on the farm of Boscawen-Un. The original num ber of stones is uncertain. It is 81 ft. in diam. ; and there are now 19 stones, 3 of which are pros trate. There is one larger stone, 8 ft. 6 in. high, in the middle of the circle. A Welsh triad ranks " Beis- cawen in Danmonium" among the three " Gorsedds (places of judgment) of poetry " in Britain ; and this Bos- cawen has been pointed out as the place meant. (Boscawen signifies the " dwelling by the elder-trees.") The circle is, however, probably se pulchral. 5J m. Crows an ura {the Cross by the wayside). Rt. a road to St Just, 1. to Buryan ; rt. are the hills of Bartinne' and Chapel Cam Bre. The latter is more accessible from this road than from Sancreed. 7 m. Quakers' Burial-ground, a walled enclosure now disused. We have now a sea-view before us, and rapidly descend to 9 m. St. Seunen Church-town, 387 ft. above the sea. The Inn was for a long time the " first aud last " 106 Boute 30 — TAe Land's End. inn in England, but the proprietor has built another, c.dled t ,e " Land's End or Point Hotel," on the Land's End itself, where very tolerable accommodation can he procured. It is, however, only open in summer, aud is frequently full. St. Senuen Church is a small weather-bi aten building, calling for no special remark. Near this is a Trinity Board Station, also a Tele graph Stat. 10 m. The Inn at the Land's End is a homely hostelry, close to the cliffs, and about 200 ft. above the sea, furnishing food and lodging. An hour or two may be pleasantly spent in fine weather, wandering along the edge of the cliffs. Land's End, the Furthest Land — the " Penwithstart " (i.e. the "start" (Sax.) or" end" of Pen- with, ns the hundred is still called. Penwiih (Celt), signifies the " chief headland"), the Bolerium of the ancients, and the most westerly point of England, is wholly com posed of granite, darkened by the spray of the sea and the mists driven past it from the Atlantic. Its extreme point, a long low promon tory of granite, bristling with spines, descends into the sea like the snout of an alligator. It is pierced by a natural tunnel, and is not above 60 ft. in height, but the cliffs rise on either hand to a much greater elevation, and below them, in gloomy recesses, lie huge rocks, rounded like pebbles and eternally buffeted, and the mouths of caverns in which the voice of the sea is never hushed. The view necessarily includes an ex panse of ocean which, when the winds are abroad, presents a sptc- tncle of grandeur which is truly sublime. The line of coast, as seen from this promontory, terminates N. with Cape Cornwall (alt. 230 ft.), and between that point and the Land's End is indented by White- sand Buy, which affords a shelter to vessels when the winds are adverse in the Channel. It is said that this bay was the landing-plu.ce of Athel stan after his conquest of SciUy, of King Stephen in 1135, of King John when he returned from Ireland, and of Perkin Warbeck in his final at tempt upon the crown in 1497. Some rare microscopic shells are to be found upon its sands, and on its western side, near Sennen Cove, a patch of slate enters the granite. Under the point of the Land's End is the Pele (a spire) Bock; out at sea N.N.W. the Shark's Fin ; to the S. the Armed Knight, cased in solid stone; and on the profile of Carn Kez Dr. Johnson's Bead, a very whimsical resemblance, even to the wig. 1| m. W. from the shore the Longships Lighthouse rises from a cluster of rocks. It was erected in 1793 by a Mr. Smith, whose enter prise was rewarded by a toll to be levied upon shipping for a limited number of years. It is now under the jurisdiction of the Trinity House. The tower is built of granite, and the circumf. at the base is 68 ft., the height from the rock to the vane of the lantern 52 ft, and from the sea to the foot of the building 71 ft., and yet the lantern has been frequently shivered by the waves. The patch of slate which runs out from Sennen Cove constitutes the roek upon which the lighthouse stands, the rest of the cluster consisting of granite. In clear weather the Islands of Scilly, about 9 leagues distant, may be distinguished upon the western horizon. Their appearance under a setting sun is eminently beautiful, but they are more fre quently visible in the light of a clear morning. There is a tradition that these islands were once con nected with the mainland by a tract of country called the Lyonesse — that "sweet land of Lyonesse," where, Boute 30.— Me Land's End. 107 according to the poet, fell the heroic King Arthur, when — " All day long the noise of battle roll'd Among the mountains by the winter sea." Spenser has given us a glimpse of this legendary region, which he places on the confines of Fairyland ; but the chroniclers enter into par ticulars, and tell us how it contained 140 parish churches, and was swept away by a sudden inundation. At the present day the sea which flows between Scilly and the mainland is known by the denomination of Le- tltowsow, or the Lioness ; the race between the Longships and the Land's End being distinguished by that of Gibben, or the Kettle's Bottom. The Wolf Lighthouse stands upon a dangerous rock of felspar-por phyry, called the Wolf, situated 8 m. S.W. from the shore. It is sur rounded by deep water on all sides hut the S.E., from which a reef ex tends. The rock rises in the highest part only 17 ft. above low water, and stands directly in the way of ships making for the channel; and was so dangerous that in 1860 the Trinity Board determined to build a Lighthouse on it. Exposed to a terrific sea, the difficulties and dangers of erecting such a struc ture on it were as great as ever beset the work of an engineer. The foundation was begun in March, 1862 ; but only 83 hours' work could be done in that year, although every opportunity was eagerly seized. The building was continued till 1869, when the last stone of the tower was laid. It was designed by James Walker, engineer of the board, and superintended by Mr. Douglas. The tower is 116ft. 4 iu.high: the diam. at the base is 41 ft. 8 in. It is built of granite, each stone being dove tailed horizontally and vertically, and secured by strong bolts of yellow metal. The strength and solidity is moie apparent than in the Eddy- stone or the Bishop Rock light houses ; but these far exceed the Wolf in grace of outline. The cost of erection was G2,726i. The light exhibits alternate flashes of red and white at half-minute intervals. Landing on the rock is not easy. The tides round it are very strong, and "set" about it in a circle, giving little chance to the strongest swim mer. It is an interesting but rough walk along the shore N. to Cape Cornwall and Botallack Mine, the latter of which is about 5 m. dist. (See Rte. 31.) Below are the old Cornish names of several striking points on this part of the coast. Pedn Men Vim, the Bead of Black Bock. The Shark's Fin lies between this headland and the Longships, and the Irish Lady rises from the waves at the foot of the cliffs. A very perfect specimen of a cliff-castle may be found between the Land's End and Pedn Men Dhu. It is called Maen Castle. Sennen Cove and its little village, boasting a pilchard-fishery and fish- cellars. Here the traveller has en tered Whitesand Bay. Observe the j unction of the granite and slate, Carn Olva, the Carn at the head of the Breach : the breach being caUed Veltau Dreath, the Mitt in the Sand. The origin of the name of this sandy hollow was ascertained a few years ago, when the remains of a tin Streamwork, together with the skeleton and horns of a deer, and an oak with its branches and leaves, were discovered about 30 ft. beneath the surface. The shore scene here is of singular beauty. Carn Towan, the Cam in the Sand. Cam Barges, the Kite's Carn. Cam Crease, the Middle Cam. Carn Kei, the Cam by the Hedge. Aire, the Inner Point, as inside Cape Cornwall. This headland is the northern boundary of Whitesand Bay, 108 Boute 30. — Land's End to Logan by the Cliff. Cam Venton, the Carn near the Well. Carn Kreigle, the Carn from whence to call or cry; probably so named as a station of the huers in the pilchard-fishery. Cam Mellyn, the Yellow Carn. Polpry, the Clay Pit. Cam Leskez, the Cam of Light, which was so called, says Borlase, from the Druid fires which were kindled on it — a guess which need not be insisted on. The true word is probably leskedd — broad and slanting. Cam M7ethan, the Cam of Trees ; and here, remarks the same author, " an oak-tree is still (1769) to be seen growing among the clefts of the rocks." Carn or Carreg Glos, the Grey or Hoary Bock— an appropriate name, on account of the quantity of moss and lichens with which the head land is covered. Cape Cornwall. (See Rt. 31.) About 1 m. beyond it is BotaUack, one of the most celebrated of the Cornish mines. Land's End to Logan Bock by the Sea- Cliff. The carriage road, which is not very interesting, leads direct from Land's End to 4 m. Treen, j m. from the Logan. Unquestionably the grandest cliff scenery in the W. of Cornwall lies between the Land's End and the Logan Rock; the two finest points there are Pardenkk Point and Tol Pedn Penwith. The only way to .see it thoroughly is to walk along the cliff. The distance is about 7 m., and will require from 2 to 4 hours, according to the pace walked and the time spent looking1 at the , scenery. It is a rough walk of ups .and clowns. They who are not good walkers, or who have not time to spore, should be driven in their carriage as near Pardenick Point as they can, after leaving Sennen. No carriages can approach within 1 m. of Tol Pedn Penwith ; and if that is not too far for the pedestrian, it can be taken in the way to the Logan after the horses are rested at the Land's End. The Penzance drivers know where to put one down at the nearest point. The following are the names of the most remarkable points and objects the pedestrian will meet on his walk along the cliff. South Carn and Dollar Bock. The latter has derived its name from some dollars having been dredged up in its vicinity. Carn Creis. Cam Greeb, the created rock. Sev eral rocks called Guela or Guelaz {easily seen or distinguished) lie off this headland. They are sometimes called Bigh Seen. The most strik ing of the group is the "Armed Knight," "huge and in a rock (of granite) arm'il," a pyramidal mass divided in such a manner by joints as to resemble a knight in armour. Enys Dodnan the Island of " po sition " or " feature.'' It is perfo rated by an archway. Pardenick, or Pradenack (collec tion or " herd " of rocks). This is a headland of remarkable grandeur and beauty. It particularly excited the ndmiration of Turner, who sketched what the traveller will see by a downward glance from the sum mit. The most striking group of rocks is called Chair Ladder. The cliff-scenery between Pardenick and Tol Pedn Penwith is the finest in Cornwall, and probably in Great Britain. To the W. is the Land's End Inn on Cum Kez. Under Pardenick are The Pludn, the Pool, a deep place, and Boute 30. — The Logan Bock by the Cliff. 109 Mozrang Pool, the Maids Pool. Adapted for bathing. Zawn Beeth, the Sand Cave. It is a wild and magnificent archway, noble in its dimensions, and well worth a visit, and the descent to it by the chine is quite practicable, though not very easy. Carn Voel, the " Mounds " of Rooks, crowned by piles of rock, and below them is a beautiful slope of turf, commanding the coast eastward as for as Tol Pedn. The W. side is precipitous, slanting sheer to Zawn Reeth. Zawn Pyg, "pyg " is " one of many." It is connected with bichan = small. The cave is known also by a prettier name— Song of the Sea. It is a dark tunnel, or chink, in a point of Pendower, through which the light streams and the waves roll with fine effect. Taking the cave for the eye, and the tongue of rock for the beak, the resemblance to a bird's head is obvious. A path — but a rugged one — leads along the steep side of the bay. passing some exca vations where miners have broken ground in search of tin, but with no great success. On the W. is a pic turesque crane at the edge of the cliff for raising sand from the beach. This is effected by an ingenious con trivance. Mill Bay, or Nankissal (valley of the bosom), a wild romantic scene. By the shore are the ruins of the miU. Carn Pendower, Carn at the head of the water; i.e. of the streams which flow into Mill Bay. Zawn Kellis or Gellis, The Hidden Cavern. Carn Barra (a loaf), Carn resem bling loaves, but in which other freaks of form may be discerned. Por Loe (Lake Port), a small rocky recess, where an Indiaman was wrecked some years ago. Tol Pedn Penwith, the Holed Head land in Penwith. This promontory forms the western boundary of the Mount's Bay, and derives its name from the Funnel Rock, a deep well like chasm, the bottom of which, opening to the sea, may be visited at low water. A person accustomed to cliffs may find his way down over the granite, which, by its roughness, affords a secure footing, and at any- state of the tide you may descend to the level of the sea. You will then gain a magnificent view of the columns of weatherbeaten stone, which rudely resemble Gothic spires. Cam MeUyn, the Yellow Cam, in a golden coat of lichen, rises directly before you ; beyond it is Carn Brause, the Great Carn, and island rocks at its foot, and in the distance the Longships. 1 m. off the pro montory a dark speck and a ring of foam mark the Bundlestone or Bunnel Stone, a point of granite 4 yds. long by 2 in breadth rising from the deep sea. Two beacons on the headland indicate its position. But it is the cause of repeated and fatal disasters. In 1854, during a fog, a French brig and 2 English schooners were wrecked upon it one after the other. In 1855 the Trinity House erected upon it, at considerable expense, an iron beacon, and mast, surmounted by a ball : but in a severe winter's gale of 1856 the whole fabric was washed away. Tol Pedn is well known to geologists as affording fine examples of granite veins in granite; and it likewise contains a quantity of black schorl, which is distributed in patches, and generally occurs in crystals in a matrix of quartz. Polostoc, the Headland in the form of a cap (the fisherman's cap). It is one of the grandest rocks on Tol Pedn. The granite has the appear ance of sable drapery hanging in folds. Porthgwarra, Port of Refuge, a ro mantic fishing station, at the mouth of a wild valley, where a roadway to the shore is formed by tunnels driven through a tongue of granite. It is famous for lobsters, which are caught on the Bundlestone. 110 Boute 30. — St. Levan — Treryn Dinas. Cam Scathe (Scatha - a ferry boat), i.e. a protecting carn for boats, is the E. point of the cove. Pol Ledan, the Broad Pool. Carn Vessa-clcs, the Outside Bock, so called from a rook lying off the point. St. Levan, a remote and lonely place, consisting of a ch. and a couple of cottages. The Church, though late Perpen. (the transept may be rude E. Eng.), is well worth a visit, if only for its situation in a very pretty valley. The bench-ends are good. Remark especially two, close to the entrance, representing jesters in cap and bells. In the porch is a curious square stoup. There is a fine old cross in the ch.-yard, and lich-stones and a small cross at the entrances. Near the edge of the cliff, and on the rt. bank of the stream, is the ruin of the ancient baptistery or well of St. Levan, who, accord ing to the legend, supported himself by fishing. He caught only one fish a day. But once, when his sister and her child came to visit him, after catching a chad, which he thought not dainty enough to enter tain them, he threw it again into the sea. The same fish was caught 3 times : aud at last the saint accepted it, cooked, and placed it before his guests, when the child was choked by the first mouthful, and St. Levan saw in the accident a punishment for his dissatisfaction with the fish which Providence had sent him. The chad is still called here " chack- cheeld " = choke-child. Pedn Maen an Mor, the stone head land in the sea. At its foot is Manach Point, the Monk's Point, a pile of granite. Porth Kernow (now spelled Porth- ournow), the " Port of Cornwall," or perhaps more properly " Port of the horn," i.e. horn-shaped. The rocks are magnificent, and the sands formed entirely of curious shells. As many as 150 varieties have been found; but the abundance of certain species depends in a measure on the direc tion of the wind, which, to be favour able, should blow from the shore. Por Selli, the Cove of Eels {i.e. conger eels). Pedn Vounder {a lane), a narrow cove. The finest view of Castle Treryn is to be had from this spot. The Logan rock is seen on the second ridge of rocks inland. Land's End to Logan. Carriage Boad. The rather dreary carriage road from Land's End reaches by a steep ascent at the end of 4 m. Treen (Tre-ryn = town of the promontory or cape), a village with a small Inn, § m. distant from the Logan, which is reached by a cross field-path, along the tops of the stone hedges. Treryn Castle, or Treryn Dinas, is a magnificent headland of granite, which by itself would amply repay an excursion from Penzance ; but besides possesses great interest as the site of the celebrated Logan Stone, a block of granite weighing upwards of 60 tons (6.r8 tons. Ma- culloch), but so nicely balanced that it may be made to oscillate on its point of support. In 1824, however, this rocking-stone was deprived of much of its former interest when a Lieutenant Goldsmith, in command of a revenue cruiser — perhaps incited to the feat by the confident assertion of Borlase, that " it is morally im possible that any lever, or indeed any force, however applied in a me chanical way, can remove the Logan Rock from its present situation" — overturned it with the assistance of his boat's crew. It was an expen sive frolic, as the Admiralty ordered the officer to replace the stone. This arduous duty was accomplished at the end of the same year, the Government, ot the request of' the late Mr. Davies Gilbert (who also subscribed most handsomely to the Boute 30. — Treryn — St. Buryan. 1U work), lending machinery, &c, for it. The rock basins in the granite are remarkable. They are said to have been used by the Druids in their religious ceremonies. The headland of Treryn seems to have been a Sanctuary or Fortress of the ancient inhabitants of the country; it is isolated by a triple entrenchment of earth and stones, forming a line of defence of which the vallum is about 15 ft. high. Hence the prefix of castle. Many of the Cornish headlands are cut off from the mainland by a sort of scarp and breast-work. The "Black Head" in St. Austell parish is a good example. Others are to be traced on Ramehead, the Dodman, Cudden Point, and Tintagel. These " cliff castles " have been assigned to Britons, Ro mans, Saxons, Danes, and Irish ; but it seems quite impossible to deter mine by whom they were origin ally constructed. Similar remains exist on the W. coast of Scotland, and are frequent on the coast of Wales, especially in the neighbour hood of St. David's. Passing turough this ancient rampart, we gain the promontory by a very steep descent leading to a narrow isthmus, and scale it by a well-worn path. The best point of view is from the E, group of rocks, whence the Logan stone is first seen, and the Castle- peak, the summit of the pile, is reached by climbing up the natural crannies and steps in the rock and squeezing through a narrow fissure, a somewhat difficult scramble. The granite, shaggy with byssui (old man's beard), is weathered into rhomboidal masses, and, assuming in places a porphyritic character, is marked by vivid colours. On either side the eye gazes down over the edge of abrupt precipices upon the sea 200 or 300 ft. below. Many hours may be pleasantly passed here. Along the steeply shelving shore are numerous fine cams, and so clear is the water that the sands below it may be seen moving as the waves roll past. Cor morants cluster on the outlying rocks, and little companies of mullet and bass wander from cove to cove, while fragments of some recent wreck may be seen drifting past with the current. Leaving Treen village by a very steep descent, and equally steep n scent on the other side, the road passes through an uninteresting country, till we reach St. Buryan, now consisting of a Church and a few cottages, but once a place of note, and the seat of a college of Augustinian canons, said to have been founded by Athel stan after his conquest of Scilly, on the site of the oratory of St. Buriana, " a holy woman of Ireland.'' accord ing to Leland. The present Church (date 15th centy., Henry VII. — but an early Norm, arch is built up on the N. side of the chancel, and the granite font is perhaps E. Eng.), probably the 3rd which has stood here, is of rather large size, with a nave, and N. and S. aisles. It is built of Ludgvan granite, a fine grained stone of a kind which no longer is found in Ludgvan, or the neighbourhood. The fine tower is 90 ft. high, and commands an exten sive view land and seawards. In 1S14 the building was repaired, and a fine rood-screen destroyed, the loss of which is much to be deplored. A few of the fragments have been pieced together, and placed across the ch. in their original position. The carving is fine bold work, of grotesque figures and demons among foliage, grapes, &c. A door in the S. wall is the entrance to a staircase, which led to the rood-loft. Near the porch is a Cross raised on 5 steps, of unusual design. There is a second cross at the roadside. (Small models of the latter cross are to be obtained 112 Boute 31. — Penzance to St. Just. at Mr. Procktei-'s shop in Pen zance.) This parish was the birthplace of William Noy, attorney-general to Charles I., born 1577. 1 m. S.E. of the ch., on the estate of Borliven, are the remains of an ancient chapei. The direct road to Penzance (6 m.) is by Drift. A detour of 3 m. will include Lamorna Cove and St. Paul on the way (see p. 82). Not far from Buryan, on an estate called Trewoof or Troove, is a sub terranean passage 36 ft. long. 5 ft. wide, and 6 ft. high, formed of two parallel walls of unhewn and un- cemented stones, and roofed with stone slabs, with a branch passage at the side. Its entrance is now nearly hid under the gorze-bushes. Its age, use, and origin are equally unknown. J m. beyond Treewoofe, on the Buryan road, is the hamlet of Bolleit or Boleigh (accent on the last syl lable), the Place of Slaughter, or the House of Blood, traditionally the scene of the final overthrow of the Britons by Athelstan in the year 936. Tlie Pipers, rt of the road, are two large upright stones, 12 and 16 ft. in height, standing 320 ft. apart, and perhaps mark the burial- place of those slain in this fight. They have received their present appellation from their vicinity to a stone circle called the Merry Maidens, but are also known as the Giant's Grave, a name which is cer tainly more appropriate, if we con sider them as memorials of a place of sepulture. It may, however, have originated in their resemblance to the head and tail stones of a grove. Beyond Boleigh we pass the hamlet of Newtown. We are here on high ground, with a delightful view over the country, which is rendered beau tiful by the wild valleys and the many crofts of furze, heather, and grey stones. A turn in the road brings us to a wayside cross and a solitary cottage. Immediately oppo site, by the side of a gate, is a holed stone, and in a field 1. of the road, on the estate of Rosemodris, a circle of stones known as the Dawns Men, the Stone Dance or Dancing Stones, and popularly as the Merry Maidens, from a legend that these stones were once young women, who were thus transformed for danc ing on the Sabbath. This remark able monument consists of 1 9 stones of no great size, all of which are now upright, and is supposed to have originated the name of the farm on which it is situated (Rosemodris — i.e. Rhos modris — the moor of the circle). 1 m. W. of Lamorna (see Excur sion / from Penzance) is the head land of Cam Boscawen, remarkable for some rocks so placed as to form an archway, through which a person can pass. Their arrangement has been attributed by Borlase to the Druids, but is probably natural. Bos- kenna, C. D. Bevan, Esq., but the property of Thomas Paynter, Esq., is near this headland, and is as wild. and secluded a place of residence as can well be imagined. Penzance (Rte. 27). ROUTE 31. PENZANCE TO ST. JCST, CAPE CORN WALL, BOTALLACK MINE, ETC., BV SANCREED. Omnibus daily from Penzance to St. Just and back. The direct road to St. Just by Newbridge is about 7 m. There is Boute 31. — Penzance to St. Just. 113 little of interest on this road. The road by Sancreed is longer and more hilly, but possesses more interest, passing as it does through Sancreed church-town, and near Caer Bran. For the first 3 m. from Penzance we follow the Land's End road as far as the village of Driff, where our road turns away to the rt. and in about ljm. reaches Sancreed, a pic turesque little Church (late 15th centy., of no architectural interest) surrounded by trees. In the vestry are some panels of- the old rood-screen, curious, though not very early. Observe a Cross on the churchyard-wall near the gate; and a still liner one 7 ft. high in the churchyard itself, having on it among other emblems the lily of the Virgin, a rare emblem on these crosses. The dedication of this ch. is uncertain (perhaps Sancreed is equivalent to St. Faith). The road ascends soon after leaving the village, passing be tween Sancreed Beacon on rt., and [1 m. W. of the village, Caer Bran on 1. The summit of this hill is crowned with the remains of an old castle, Caer Bran Castle, or Bound, similar to that at Chun. The castle is now little more than a heap of ruins, though its circular form may be distinctly traced. " Near Cairn Uny, close at hand, is a curious subterranean gallery, walled on the sides, and covered with flat slabs of granite ; it is partly fallen in, and cannot easily be en tered." — Blight. This is one of the remarkable caves of which the cham bers at Trelowarren (Rte. 28), and the "Fogou" at Treewoofe are the most perfect examples. The higher end of the cave con sisted of a circular floor 12 ft. in diam., covered with an overlapping roof or "bee. hive" of granite. Be tween this hill and Chapel Carn Bre is a relic, the ruins of a Baptis tery dedicated to St. Euinus, and [Cornwall.'] known by the name of Chapel Uny. It stands near a well, to the waters of which are attributed many won derful qualities. The hill of Bartine~ (usually trans lated the hill of fires,hut query ?) alt. 689 ft, the highest eminence in the vicinity of the Land's End. The hill across the hollow to the S.W. is Chapel Cam Bre. This, perhaps, is more easily ascended from the Land's End road. One of these hills, however, should be climbed for the sake of the prospect, which from the small girth of this part of the peninsula includes a wonderful expanse of water. Three seas roll in sight, and the eye ranging round 28 points of the compass reposes during the interval on their azure surface. The chapel which crowned the hill of Carn Bre has disappeared entirely. The mining field of St. Just, and the rough' hill of Carn Kenidjack (alt. 640 ft.) to the N., present a dreary scene. From Chapel Carn Bre, Mount's Bay (E.) assumes the appearance of a lake, in which St. Michael's Mount is an island. On a clear day Scilly (W.) is per haps better seen from these heights than from the Land's End itself.j Returning to the road, from which we have strayed too far, we pass on rt. Bostrea, a farm of about 500 acres converted by Col. Scohell, of Nancealverne, from a howling wil derness into smiling pastures. De scending the hill, we have a glorious expanse of sea before us. Rt. is Balleswidden Mine, one of the largest tin mines in Cornwall. 1J St. Just Church-town {in Pen-, with), pron. Joost — the Church is dedicated to St. Justus, the com panion of Augustine— (Commercial Inn.) (pop. of parish, 9290). Omni buses to and from Penzance daily ; generally leaving St. Just in the morning, and Penzance in the after noon. 'I'he Church is a 16th-ccnty. building on the foundation of an I 114 Boute 31. — St. Just — Botallack Mine. earlier one. The sculptured caps of the piers and the E. windows of the aisles should be noticed. The chan cel was rebuilt in 1834. In the village near the Com mercial Inn are the remains of an Amphitheatre or round, "plane an guary," a " playing place," 126 ft. in diameter, originally with 6 tiers of stone steps, anil till lately the scene of wrestling matches on Easter and Whit Mondays and Tuesdays. There are now no remains of the steps, and the amphitheatre itself is much filled up. It was here that " miracle plays" were performed in Cornish (see Introd.) " The bare granite plain of St. Just, in view of Cape Cornwall, and of the transparent sea which beats against that magnificent headland, would be a fit theatre for the exhibition of what in those days of simplic:ty would appear a serious presentation of the general history of the Creation, the Fall, and the Re demption of man, however it might be marred occasionally by passages of lighter or even of ludicrous cha racter. The mighty gathering of people from many miles round, hardly showing like a crowd in that extended region, where nothing ever grows to limit the view on any side, with their booths or tents, absolutely necessary when so many people had to remain three days on the spot, would give a character to the assem bly probably more like what we hear of the so-called religious revivals in America, than of anything witnessed in more sober Europe." — Norris's ' Ancient Cornish Drama, ii. p. 466. The great surviving relic of such performances — the miracle play at Annnergau in Bavaria — should also be remembered. N.E. of St. Just is Carn Kenid- jack, a hill with a remarkable pile of rocks on it. The stonu tumulus explored by Mr. E Borlase is one of the most curious in Cornwall. It appears to resemble the Plot's houses of the N. of Scotland. Directly S. of it a stone circle called the Merry Maidens, about 72 ft. in diameter, consisting at present of 15 stones — 10 erect and 5 fallen. Cape Cornwcdl is about 1 m. W. of St. Just. A footpath leads to it. The junction of the granite and slate here maybe seen very well (see Gurnard's Head), especially on the beach to the N. E. in Poithleden Cove, below Boswedden Mine. On the isthmus connecting the cape with the land the ruins of an ancient chapel called St. Helen's Oratory are still to be seen in a field caUed Parc-an-chapel. From the top of the cape there is a fine view to the southward of the cliffs as far as the Land's End. At the very point is the old engine- house, now disused, once belonging to Little Bounds, a submarine mine. In part of these works, significantly called Saveall's Lode, the avarice of the miner has actually opened a communication with the sea, and the breach, which is covered every tide, is protected by a platform caulked like the deck of a ship. The noise of the waves is distinctly heard in every part of the mine. The Brisons, or the Sisters, two dangerous rocks between 60 and 70 ft. in height, are situated about a mile off this headlaud. A reef nearer the shore is called the Bridges. Carrickgloose Head (the Hoar Rock), immediately S. of Cape Cornwall, should be visited, as it commands a most interesting view of the coast. In Pornanvon Cove, just S. of it, is a fine example of a raised beach, 15 ft. above high-water mark. Botallack Mine, about 15 m. from St. Ives, and 2 from St. Just, lies 1 § m. N.N.E. of Cape Cornwall. It is an interesting walk for those who are not afraid of a scramble through the busy scene of Boswedden Mine, and up the steep ascent of Kenidjack Castle. Here some remains of an Boute 31. — Botallack Mine — Pendeen Cove. 115 old fortification may still be traced ; and at the Bunny Cliffs, a little S. of Botallack, some " old men s work ings," as what are supposed to be the surface-works of the ancient miners are generally called. On the next headland is Botallack Mine (tin and copper). Admission to the interior of the mine is to be gained only by an order obtained at the company's office in Penzance. The external view of the mine and of its singular position will alone re pay the traveller. The scene there unfolded exhibits one of the most singular combinations of the power of art and the sublimity of nature that can be imagined. Gloomy pre cipices of slate, which have success fully defied the ocean itself, are here broken up by the operations of the miner, and are hung with all his complicated machinery. The Crown Engine, well known for the wild exposure of its position, was lowered down a cliff of 200 ft. to the ledge it now occupies, for the purpose of enabling the miner to penetrate be neath the bed of the Atlantic. The first level of this mine is 70 fath. from '¦ grass," and extends upwards of 400 ft. under the sea, and the traveller who should venture to de scend into its dreary recesses may be gratified by hearing the booming of the waves and the grating of the stones as they are rolled to and fro over his head. The lode, consisting of the grey and yeUow sulphuret of copper, crops out in the Crown Bocks below the engine. The cliffs are composed of hornblende alternating with clay-slate, and contain a store of curious minerals. There is now a large "diagonal shaft" or in clined plane called Boscawen shaft, which runs from just above the water's edge in an oblique direction out under the sea. By this means the mine is now worked at a cheaper rate, and is much better ventilated. Boscawen shaft was commenced in May, 1858, owing to a discovery two years before of a vein of copper cor responding with the deposit they were then working on. The simi larity of the strata led the agents to suppose that they were on the head of another rich bunch of copper. Having satisfied themselves of this by probing the ground, the shaft forthwith was commenced, and from 20 to 50 men were employed in rising and sinking from the different levels to communicate the shaft from that time to the 2'2nd of March, 1862, on which day the first tram- waggon laden with copper ore was drawn to the surface. The rails are so laid that little or no motion is felt in ascending or descending in the waggon, which is capable of holding 6 or 8 men with comfort, and nearly a ton of ore. The length of the shaft is over 400 fath., or nearly f a mile ; and, although it has not been driven through much solid ground, its cost has been estimated at 10Z. per fath., or 4000Z. Apart from the difficulties of sinking the shaft were the removing of the 24-in. cylinder engine, and building the house for its reception. Those who, some years ago, witnessed the lowering of the machine over the face of the rugged cliff, 150 ft. high, left with an impression that it could never again be removed ; but in 1 863 many who thus thought saw the huge boiler and beams drawn to the very top of the cliff, and again relowered to a new resting-place. Botallack Mine was visited by the Prince and Princess of Wales in July 1865. 1 m. The Levant Mine, another of the submarine mines: The "levels run under the sea for a distance of 40 fath., and to a point at which the roof is calculated to be not more than 1 0 ft. in thickness. To return from hence to Penzance by the road is nearly 3 m. 2 m. Pendeen Cove. The objects of curiosity here are the granite veins penetrating the slate at the I 2 116 Boute 32. — The Scilly Lslands. junctions of the two formations as we have seen at Cape Cornwall and the Gurnard's Head; and in a garden at the village of Pendeen a cave or excavation called Pendeen Van, con sisting of 3 passages, the two end ones branching off from the outer most. The sides incline inwards, and the cave is closed at the top with flat stones. The outer passage only can be explored at present. The others are closed by fallen stones. Such caves may have been places of concealment during the British period, but by whom they were first constructed is quite un certain. The old seat of Pendeen was the birthplace of Dr. Borlase, the antiquary. The house is now used as a farmhouse ; the family (in whose possession, however, it still is) having moved inland to Castle Horneck. The traveller had better order his carriage to meet him at Pendeen vil lage; he can then return to Pen zance by the Morvah and Penzance r jad (see Penzance, p. 83), or by the direct Pendeen and Penzance road, a distance of about 8 m. Ascending the hill we pass on rt. Carn Kenid- jack, with its curious pile of rocks. The plain below is the " Gump " (Corn — a level tract). Just beyond the summit we enter the direct St. Just and Penzance road, about 4 m. from Penzance. Descending the hill, 200 yds. rt. is a rude-stone circ'.e (called Tregeseal Circle or the Nine Maidens) on the moor ; and a furlong N.E. of the circle are two caves called "Gants' Giaves," which may reward examination. At the bottom of the hill we pass the vil lage of Newbridge. [A road here branches off to the rt. ; and about J m. beyond the junction is the vil lage of Truen, on the hill above which is a " round" or circular en closure, about 125 ft. diameter. Near its centre a circular pave ment of broad unhewn granite slabs, with small stones in the interstices, and about 10 ft. diameter, was dis covered in 1845.] Hence, with the exception of fine views of Mount's Bay, there is nothing of interest to Penzance. 2J Trecncthack Cross on rt. ; the clump of tre, s on I. is Lesingey Round, an old fortification. Below us on it. is Trereiffe (D. P. Le Grice, Esq.). J m. The Land's End road is joined. Penzance (Rte. 27). ROUTE 32. THE SCILLY ISLANDS, PENZANCE TO ST. MARY'S, HUGH TOWN, TRESCO. Steamers, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from Penzunce Pier, leav ing Scilly, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, — in about 4 hrs., to Hugh Town Pier, about 36 m. The steamer, on quitting Mounts Boy, passes sufficiently near to the coast to afford views of the grand granite cliffs extending from the Logan Rock to Land's End, and sights the lighthouses which warn ships from this most dangerous shore, the Wolf Rock, the Longships, &c. ^See Rte. 30.) Threading the navigation of St. Mary's and Crow Sounds, intricate f i om their reefs and currents, it lands its passengers on the pier at Hugh Town (see p. 118). Boute 32. — The Scilly Islands : History. 117 Of the 30 or 40 islands forming the Scilly Group, only 5 at most are worthy the attention of strangers. St Mary's (containing the capital, Hugh Town), Tresco or Trescaw (on which is the residence and beautiful garden of Col. Smith\ St. Martin, Bryher (near Tresco), and St. Agnes (lighthouse revolving light). History. In visit'ng these islands care should be taken to employ only ex perienced boatmen (at least 2), and to secure stout boats. The rocks, the winds, and the currents are sufficiently capricious and dangerous to require strangers to be cautious. The Islands of Scilly are about 30 m. from the Land's End, and may be reached by steamer from Penzance. The inducements to this trip are the remote and w:ld position of these islands, the beauty and grandeur of the rock scenery, and some antiqui ties. Lodging-houses and good inns are to be found at St. Mary's. The group consists of about 40 islands bearing herbage, but only five are inhabited ; the others, with a number of islets of rock, being tenanted by gulls and rabbits. List of the Principal Islands. Acres. St. Mary's .. .. about 1600 Tresco „ 700 St. Martin's . . . . „ 550 St. Agnes .. .. „ 350 Bryher „ 300 Samson 80 St. Helen's 40 Annette .. .. „ 40 Tean „ 35 Great Ganniley .. „ 35 Arthur „ 30 Great and Little Ganniornic 10 North withial .... „ 8 Gweal „ 8 Little Ganniley „ 5 The Scilly Islands have been claimed as the true " Cassiterides " or " Tin Islands " of the Greeks ; an appropriation which is at least doubtful, since no tin is at present found in them. The " Cassiterides " of Herodotus and Strabo probably embraced the whole tin-producing re gion of Western Britain. Ausonius is the first writer who describes them as the Sillinie Insuhe. In this appel lation we are of course to recognize the present " Scilly," said to be de rived from Silya, the Cornish for conger, or from Stdleh, a British word signifying the rocks consecrated, to the sim. The latier derivation will be probably adopted by the traveller who has beheld t' ese islands from the Land's End by sunset, when they appear like dark spots on the disc of the sett ing luminary ; but the rea 1 ety mology is most probably to be found in a Cornish word signifying " di vided," i.e., separated from the main land. Tavistock Abbey had posses sions in the Scilly Isles in the reign of the Confessor. In the great civil war the Scilly Islands were long held for the king. In 1645, after the defeat of the royal cause in the West, they sheltered Prince Charles ; but a hos tile fleet having formed a cordon round the islands, the prince fled to Jersey when the first opportunity oc curred. The most memorable event of which these isles have been the scene was their fortification in 1649 by Sir John Grenville, the royalist who took so active a part in the restoration of Charles II. He con verted these lonely rochs into a stronghold for privateers, and with these he swept the neighbouring seas, and so crippled the trade of the Channel that the Parliament at length fitted out a powerful fleet under Blake and Sir George Ayscue, and to this Grenville was forced to surrender June 1651. 118 Boute 32.— The Scilly Isles— St. Mary's. The Scilly Islands are now in cluded in the Duchy of Cornwall. In the reign of Elizabeth they appear to have been divided among a number of proprietors, from whom they were bought up by the crown ; and from that period to 1 830 they were rented by the family of Godolphin. At present Col. Smith Dorrien is the lessee, or Lord Proprietor, of these lonely isles. The inhabitants, who are principally sailors, fishermen, and pilots, are a long-lived race when spared by the boisterous sea which surrounds them; but the frequency with which this element demanded a victim, previously to re cent improvements in their pilot and fishing craft, is denoted by a saying, that for one who dies a natural death nine are drowned. The Scillonians, however, make excellent sailors; and seem to have a power of " getting on in the world " in whatever calling they embrace. The chief produce of Scilly is early vegetables, potatoes, &c, which within the last few years has given rise to a very flourishing trade, many tons of vegetables being an nually despatched to the markets of London and Bristol. The value of property in the islands is in creasing, but their population is de creasing. In 1851 it was 2627, but in 1861 it had fallen to 2431 ; the number of inhabited houses had declined from 512 to 499, and all the people have been removed from Samson, thus reducing the number of inhabited islets from 6 to 5. The isles of Scilly are wholly com posed of granite, outlyers of that series of granitic highlands which extends through Cornwall to Dart moor. They are traditionally said to have been once united to the main land. The striking feature of the Scilly Islands is their vegetation, which, promoted by the extreme mildness of the climate and rarity of frosts, encourages the growth of many plants unusual, at least in the open, elsewhere in Great Britain. The mean temperature of the summer is 58= Fahr., of the winter 45°, and in consequence not only myrtles, geraniums, verbenas, New Zealand flax, and such like, grow to the size of trees; but aloes, cactus, and prickly pear occur in the open air nearly as strong in growth as on the shores of the Mediterranean. The chief botanical feature is the fern tribe,* and in parlicular Asplenium marinum, or sea-spleenwort, which grows to an uncommon length in the damp caverns of the coast. The botanist, as he rambles round the islands, may also notice the Ar chill (Rocella tinctona), a lichen which yields a valuable red dye, and grows abundantly in Scilly. St. Mary's (Pop. 1532, cirenmf. about 9 m.) is the principal island, and Hugh Town its capital. {Inns : Hugh House Hotel ; Tregarthen's.) Hugh Town is built on a sandy isthmus which connects a peninsula with St. Mary's. This peninsula is crowned by Star Castle, at an eleva tion of 110 ft. above the sea, and was probably the origin of the name of the town, as Borlase tells us that heugh signifies a high piece of land projecting into the water. The town has a Pier, reconstructed in 1835-8, and an excellent harbour, called the Pool, bounded N. by Carn Morval, and entered' between the Cow and the Calf rocks. The most prominent and interestingbuilding on the island is Star Castle, a fort erected in the reign of Elizabeth, projecting in eight salient angles. Over the en trance is the date 1593, and the letters E. R. (Star Castle was * The flora as well as the topography of these Wand„ is fully described in Mr. North's ' Wc.-k In the Isles »f Scilly,' published by Rowe of Penzance, and Longman of London, in 1850. Bcute 32. — Scilly Isles — St. Mary, Peninnis. 119 erected by Francis Godolphin, whom Elizabeth knijjhted in 15SU, and made Lord Lieutenant of Cornwall. The Scilly Islands formed an import ant station in those days of war with Spain; and the queen specially en couraged Godolphin in his plans for their better protection.) In the vicinity of the castle is the Garrison, with its batteries, park, and delight ful Promenade. At the E. end of the main street stauds the Neto Church, built in 1835, chiefly at the expense of the late Lord Proprietor. A fragment of the Old Church (hi which are some curious monuments of the time of the Puritans — parti cularly one of the Governor of the island during the Commonwealth) is situated J m. from the town, and is irtill used for the burial service. Here lie the bodies of many unfortu nate mariners shipwrecked on these most dangerous of coasts ; among them many of the crew and pas sengers of the German steamer Schiller, lost on the Letarrier Reef, May, 1875, when 311 souls were drowned. In the New Church are memorials of those who perished with Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Oct. 22, 1707. Tliis was a melancholy disaster. A fleet, on its return from the siege of Toulon, came unexpectedly upon Scilly, in thick and tempestuous weather. The admiral's ship, the Association, struck the Gilstone Bock, and went to pieces in a few minutes. The Eagle and Romney, line-of-battle ships, shared a similar fate, and only one man was saved out of these three ships. He was thrown upon a rei-f called the Hell- weathers, where he was obliged to remain for some days before he could be rescued. Ti.e fireships Phoenix and Firebrand ran ashore ; the Royal Anne passed the Trenemer Rock so closely that it carried away her quarter gallery ; and the St. George had even a narrower escape. She and the Association struck the Gilstone together, but the waves which Btove in the one floated the other into deep water. 2000 persons perished ou this occasion. In a walk round St. Mary's (keep ing the sea on your rt.), you should wend your way to Peninnis Head, a magnitici-nt group of rocks, and by far the finest headland in the islands. Here you will particularly notice, on the higher ground, the Kettle and Pans, the largest rock-basins in the W. of England ; the Monk's Cowl, a ma;3 of granite above an amphi theatre 100 ft. high ; the Tooth Bock, or Elephant's Tush, S. of the Kettle and Pans, with a rock-basin on its vertical side, a puzzle to those anti quaries who maintain that such cavities were made by the Druids, and once held holy water ; Pitt's Parlour, a small recess under the Tooth Kock ; and beneath the Par lour a deep cleft, into which the sea is perpetually plunging. — Piper's Hole, u small cavern, containing a spring of fresh water, which the islanders absurdly represent as pass ing under sea to Piper's Hole in Tresco. — 'I'he Pulpit Bock, a fine example of decomposition in the horizontal joints, to the top of which you should climb. Below, in the sea, is a lonely rock called Carrick- starne ; and on the high ground the Tower, used as a station in the trigo nometrical survey, and 140 ft. above the level of mean water.— Carn Lea, the W. point of Old Town Bay, de corated with pillars of granite. At Old Town are some fragments of an ancient castle, and in the neighbour hood some remains of the Old Church. — The Giant's Castle, a carn anciently fortified as a cliff-castle. Here there are numerous rock-basins, and on the W. side of the promontory, near the edge of the cliff, a logan stone, 45 tons in weight, so exactly poised that a child can move it. N., several barrows on the neighbouring hill. — Porth Hellick {i.e. cove of willows), 120 Boute 32. —Scilly Isles— Tresco. the bay in which the body of Sir Cloudesley Shovel was washed ashore (a patch of shingle, which encroaches on the grassy shore, is shown as his first burial-place). Here it \\ as hidden by the islanders, who had stripped .and plundered it. A large emerald ring, known to have been worn by Sir Cloudesley Shovel, was found in the hands of some fishermen, who made prompt confession, and pointed out the resting-place of the body. (See Lord Stanhope's ' Queen Anne,' p. 312.) His body was afterwards taken to Plymouth, where it was embalmed, and was then conveyed to his tomb in Westminster Abbey. S. of Porth Hellick bay, on Sal- lakee Hill, are two ancient crosses, now part of a stone hedge ; and E., on the high ground, the Giant's Chair, from which, says Borlase, drawing on his imagination as usual, the arch-Druid was accus tomed to watch the rising sun ; and the Sun Bock, N. of which (J m.) are three large rock-basins in a cavity where a tool could by no possibility hove been used. In this vicinity are several long burrows, known as the Giants' Graves, one of which Borlase opened but found neither bones nor urns.- Deep Point, the easternmost point oftheiBland. — Pellew's Redoubt, named after Lord Exmouth, who, when Capt. Pellew, commanded at the Scilly Islands. — On this part of the island is the Telegraph, com manding a panoramic view, the top being 204 ft. above the sea. Tresco or Trescaw, about 2 m. d'tstont from Hugh Town (pop. 399), second only to St. Mary's in point of size, is the first island in dignity, being the residence of the Lord Pro prietor, Col. Dorrien Smith, who succeeded Mr. Augustus Smith, the late monarch and great benefactor of the Scilly Islauds. His mansion occupies the site of the ancient Abbey of Tresco, which was founded as early as the 10th centy., and annexed to Tavistock Abbey in the reign of Hen. I. In front of the bouse is a delightful terrace, and above it a hill which commands a panoramic view of the islands. With Mr. Smith's permis-ion the stranger should visit the gardens, which strikingly illustrate the genial and equable nature of the climate, and contain, in addition to their rich store of plants, some remains of the old Abbey-ch., consisting of walls of granite and arches of a red arena ceous stone supposed to have been brought from Normandy, the whole mantled with geraniums. Here, too, are the Abbey ponds, covering 50 acres. These gardens are well worth a visit. The rocks are covered with large plants of the Cape Fig mari gold, and Mesembryanthemums of various colours. There are hedges of Geraniums above 6 ft. high, and amongst plants rare to find out of doors are the Camphor laurel, differ ent species of Eurybia. Acoeialophan- tha, Bambusa, &c. Some lorge Aloes and Cactuses by the ruins of the abbey make a very striking feature ; some 24-lb. round shot are also piled up here: they were discovered in removing the rubbish while clearing the ruins. At the end of one of the walks is placed the cresset or old fire-basket by which the light at St. Agnes was exhibited. Ostriches (Emus Rhen Americana) run about the grounds, and their eggs ore used by the inhabitants and visitors of the abbey. The golden oriole has been known to build its nest in these gardens. The road from the abbey to the village — which is, in part, colled Dolphin, probably a corruption of Godolphin, after the name of the family who so long rented these islands — commands a beautiful view of Shipman's Head, and, on a stormy day, of the huge billows leap ing over its rocks. This headland is well seen, too, from Charles's Castle, a ruin on the W. s'de of the island, Boute 32. — St. Agnes — Bishop's Bock. 121 155 ft. above the sea, and imme diately over Oliver Cromwell's Castle, a circular tower with walls 12 ft. thick. At the N.E. point of the island is Piper's Bole, a deep cavern, whose recrsscs may be explored for a dis tance of 600 ft. ; but a torch and a boat will be required, for the cavern contains a pool of fresh water which varies in size, but is often nearly 200 ft. across. St. Agnes (Pop. 200) is separated from St.' Mary's by St. Mary's Sound, and, at high-water spring-tides, is divided by the sea into two parts, that on the N.E. being termed the Gugh. Upon this there are several stone-covered barrows ; near the c. ntre a rock-pillar, 9 ft. in length, called the Old Man cutting Turf ; off the N.W. point the Kittern, deserv ing notice for its picturesque form ; and at the S. extremity, between the Gugh and St. Agnes, the Cove, in which the islanders often capture in a single night as many as 40,000 herring fish. In St. Nicholas or Priglis (Port Eglise^ Bay stands the Church, wh;ch was erected about 1845 to supply the place of a smaller building, which is said to have been partly built with salvage-money paid to the islanders for rescuing a French ship from the rocks in 1685. Beyond Priglis Bay is the Lighthouse, 72 ft. high, commanding a beautiful view, and displaying a revolving light, which is seen by mariners in connec tion with the lights on the Seven Stones and Longships; and, lastly, S.E. of the lighthouse, on Wingle- tang Downs, the Punchbowl Rock, so called from its rock basin, which is nearly 4 ft. in diam. Annette (uninhab.) is separated from St. Agnes by Smith's Sound, which contains the Great Smith and Little Smith. The leading feature of the island is Annette Head, its N.W. extremity. In a westerly direction the rapid tides surge and eddy among innumerable rocks, objects pictures que and pleasing to tourists wafted round them by a summer breeze, but as terrible when beheld white with foam and cataracts of raging water from the deck of some luckless vessel driving- towards the land. They are the " dogs " of Scilly, and as fierce as those which howled around the monster of the Italian seas. S. of the island is the reef of the Hellweathers ; S.W. of this reef, Meledgan, and be yond Meledgan Gorregan; W. of Gorregan, Rosevean and Rosevear ; and S.W. of these the Gilstone, on which Sir Cloudesley Shovel was wrecked. N.W. of Roseveai- Great aud Little Crebawethan, memorable for the loss of the ' Douro,' with all hands, in Jan. 1843 ; and between Crebawethan and Rosevear, Jacky's Rock, the scene of the destruction of the ' Thames ' steamer in 1841, when only 4 persons were saved out of 65. N. of Crebawethan are the Cfunner, Nundeeps, and Crim Rocks, treache rous ledges, which have abruptly closed the career of many a gallant seaman : and W. of all, the Bishop Bock (7 m. from H. Town), standing sentinel, as it were, to this formidable host, but at high water immersed to the chin. It is crowned, since 1858, by a magnificent granite Lighthouse, a triumph of the engineering skill and perseverance of Mr. James Walker (engineer of the Trinity Board), who had previously attempted to build one of cast-iron columns, sunk in the rock, stayed to each other by rods of wrought iron. It had been nearly completed in 1850, when it totally disappeared in a ter rible gale on the night of Feb. 5. It was the work of 2 years to lay the foundation stone of the present structure. It is placed at the level of low water and on a sunken rock fully exposed to the restless roll of the Atlantic, and cost 36,0007. It is 145 ft high, and is probably the most exposed lighthouse in the 122 Boute 32. — Scilly Isles : Samson. world. Such is the force of the waves that in the winters of 1859-60 the fog-bell at the top, weighing 3 cwt., was swept away and dashed to pieces by a storm wave. Samson (now uninhabited). In his passage across the Road the voyager will observe the Nut Rock, the mark for the principal anchorage. On the W. side of Samson are several rugged islets, and, in particular, Scilly, which gives name to the whole archipelago. Samson, so called from the Cornish saint Sumson, who became Abp. of Dol, consists of 2 hills, resembling in form the back of a camel. In this island, Mr. A. Smith, in Sept. 1862, opened a large barrow (58 yards in circumf.), which yielded the only perfect kistvaen known to exist in Cornwall. A circle of stones formed the outer circumference, within which a mound of earth and small stones were raised. About 20 ft. of the mound being removed, the excavators came first to a covering of small, and next of larger stones. " The large upright stones forming the vault were at last reached, and found to be covered by a block of stone about 5 ft. 6 in. in diameter. The massive monolith being removed, disclosed an oblong stone chest, having on the floor a little heap of bones, piled together in one corner. The bones were taken out, and found to be frag ments of the upper and lower jaw bones of a man about 60, and re mains of teeth, some of them in the sockets. The bones had been all subject to the action of fire. The bottom of the sarcophagus was neatly fitted with a pavement of flat irre gular-shaped stones, the joints being fitted with clay mortar. The side stones were also cemented together, and the lid was neatly fixed with the same kind of plaster, showing that it could never have been dis turbed from the time of its construc tion. The side stones were from 7 to 9 ft. in length and 2 ft. in depth and the 2 stones forming the ends were about 3J ft. wide. The only present inhabitants are deer, and black and white rabbits." The cause of this wholesale "eviction" is said to have been smuggling — not at all an unlikely one. Bryher (pop. 115), a wild and rugged island, derives its name from bre, an old Cornish word signifying a hill. Its highest lands tire happily on the W. side, for they add much interest to the deep romantic bays which the stormy Atlantic has exca vated on that side. On the S. is Gweal, to which you may walk dry- shod at low tides ; on the N.W. a spring of fresh water on the shore ; and N. the promontory of Shipman Head, one of the finest among the islands ; it is about 60 ft. high, and separated from the mainland by a deep aud fearful chasm, hedged in by precipices. The N.E. side of the island forms with Tresco the harbour of New Grimsby, whose leading fea tures are a rock in mid-channel, called Hangman's Isle and Cromwell's Castle on the opposite shore. Before you leave Bryher you should ascend Watch Hill. Menavawr (corrupted into " Man- of-War") is, perhaps, the most beau tiful of ali the islets of Scilly (especially when seen from the N.), rising in three distinct peaks, 139 ft above the sea. Bound Island also presents an imposing group of earns. It is 18 ft. higher than Menavawr, and the chosen haunt of puffins. On the E. side of Tresco are the harbour of Old Grimsby and the b.ittery of the Old Blockhouse; and off the S. side of the island a rock called tho Mare, bearing some resemblance to the head and neck of a horse. St. Helen's (called St. Elid's by Borlase) adjoins Tresco, and is an uncultivated island stocked with deer Boute 33. — Penzance to St. Ives. 123 and goats, the only building upon it being the Pest House, which has sel dom an occupant You should make the circuit of this island. The rocks are fine, and on the N. side is a long and deep chasm, perpetually rever berating the dismal sound of the sea. Team, between St. Helen's and St. Martin's, is a warren of white rab bits, and principally remarkable for the beauty of its bays. You will notice a rock called Penbrose to the N. of it. St. Martin's (pop. 1S5) has several points of interest. At its S. E. ex tremity are the Higher Town. Cru- ther's Bay, and Cruther's Hill, some 70 ft. above the sea; and on the S. and W. coasts St. Martin's Flats, which should be diligently searched for shells. E., St. Martin's Head, 160 ft. high, is crowned by the Day Mark, and commands the most beau tiful and extraordinary sight in these seas — the whole cluster of those numberless, fantastic, many-coloured rocks which are known as the Eastern Islands. The most north erly of these is Hanjague, or the Sugarloaf (due E. of St. Martin's Head), rising abruptly to a height of 83 ft. from a depth of 25 fath. ; the next to the N., Nortor, an islet of 3 acres, distinguished by as many rocky points. G-reat Ganniley is the largest of the group, 107 ft. high, and con nected at low water with Little Gan niley, and with Great and Little Inis- vouls. Near them is Ragged Island, of a wasted form ; and S.W. Menewei-han, a noble granite pile, 47 ft. above the mean level of the sea. Great and Little Arthur are further interesting for their ancient barrows, protected by slabs of granite ; and Great and Little Ganniornic of some importance for their size. From the heights of these I islands, or from St. Martin's Head, I you will observe to the N. a line of foam, which marks the dangerous , reef called the Seven Stones; this ia situated about 9 m. from Scilly (13J from Hugh Town), and is pointed out to mariners by a lightship. ROUTE 33. PENZANCE TO ST. IVES BY CASTEIX- AN-DINAS, RETURNING BY ZLNKOR. There are 2 ways of going to St. Ives, (a) By train to St. Ives, far the quickest. A branch rly. from the main line, at St. Erth Junct. Stat., leads in 5 m. = 25 min. to St. Ives. The rly. is carried through the gap in the promontory of Cornwall, so intersected by estuaries that at high tide the waters of St. Ives nearly meet those of Mount's Bay. (6) The old road by the side of Castell-an-Dinas, though rough and hiBy, is the most beautiful, and amply repays the traveller for any inconvenience arising from the badness of the road. It leaves Pen zance by its eastern end, passes through Chyandour, and turns im mediately to the left at the back of Ponsandane, R. F. Bolitho, Esq. ; and Pendre, Sir J. St. Aubyn, Bt., M.P. Turning off from the Zen nor road, we enter the village of Gtdval. The ch. (restored 1857) is J m. to the E., and is remarkable for the inclination (N.) of its chancel. In the churchyard is a Cross of the usual Cornish type. St. Gulval was Bp. of St. Malo (?) in the 6th centy. From Gulval village commences a long climb of 2 m. over the shoul der of Castell-an-Dinas. The entrance on the left, soon after 124 Boute 33. — St. Castell-an-Dinas — St. Ives. leaving Gulval, is Kenegie, formerly the seat of a younger branch of the Harris family of Hayne, near Lifton, in Devon (many of whose monuments are in Gulval ch.). The views of Mount's Bay, during the whole of the ascent, are most beautiful. At the nearest point to the top of Castell-an-Dinas there is a footpath on 1., leading up to it across three or four fields, about 10 minutes' walk. The carriage must be left in the road. We are here 735 ft. above the sea, in a position inter mediate between the two channels, and commanding a superb panorama. On a clear day to the eastward, be tween Trink and Trecrobben Hills, the lighthouse on Trevose Head can be seen. The round hill on the cliff short of Trevose is St. Agnes Beacon. Beneath us, still to the E., is the great mining field of Red ruth and Camborne, dotted with its numerous white houses about it. Above it is Carn Bre, with the Dunstanville pillar on it. To the S. is the expanse of Mount's Bay from Mousehole to the Lizard, with Penzance and the Mount almost at our feet. To the W. Buryan Ch. Tower rises conspicuously, and the high hills of Sancreed Beacon and Chapel Cam Bre, which overlooks the Land's End ; while to the N., over Towed naek, a small patch of the Bristol Channel can be seen between the hills. The summit of Castell-an-Dinas is crowned with a circular fortification, similar to the one at Chun,, but not bo perfect ; in the centre of it there is a modern watch-tower or " folly," probably built with stones taken from the walls of the old camp. The castle consisted originally of 2 very thick concentric stone walls, with a space of about 30 ft. between them. Returning to the carriage we soon descend to Nancledre, a small village in the valley, thence to Chypons. 1 m. 1., as we rise the hill, is the Church of Towednaek. [This ch. is late, with the exception of an E. Eng. chancel arch — a rare feature in Cornish churches. The massive cor nice and stringcourse of the low tower, "though plain, are very ef fective, and in harmony with the rugged desolation of the spot." — E. Godwin.'] Notice the granite block which forms one of the benches in the porch. It bears a double cross, incised, and is probably an early sepulchral monument. The names of the farms between Chypons and Towednaek are curious : Amalebria, Amalwidden, Amalveor, Biggletub- ben, Skelywadden, and Coldharbour. Passing over the shoulder of Trink Hill, we approach Halsetown, a vil lage of detached houses, with a very pretty ch. (built 1846). The road passes through Halsetown, and enters St. Ives by its western en trance. The Railway leaving St. Erths stops at Lelant. Stat. Carbis Bay Stat. St. Ives Stat. {Inns : Tregenna Castle, on the hill, outside the town, a large house in pretty grounds, commanding fine sea-views, con verted into an hotel ; Western Hotel ; St. Ives Hotel). This very prettily situated town (Pop. 7027), nestling on the sea at the W. entrance of St. Ives Bay, with harbour, pier, and lighthouse, is sheltered by low hills. The sea- views are splendid. A descent into the streets, or rather lanes, will, how ever, somewhat qualify the travellers' admiration. Still the town claims to be considered a rising watering- place, and has thrown out some rows of villas. The town is the head-quar ters of the pilchard fishermen (refer to Introduction), and therefore tainted with the effluvia of the cellars. Tra- Boute 33.— St. Ives. 125 dition assigns its foundation to St. la, the daughter of an Irish chief tain, and companion of St. Piran in his missionary expedition to Corn wall. According to the legend, St. Piran landed, about the year 460, at Pendinas, where Tewdor, the king of the country, had a palace ; and Dinan, a lord of his court, at the request of St, la, built a church at the same place. The Church (an interesting early Perp. edifice, temp. Henry V., VI.) stands close to the beach, and is sprin kled by the sea during gales of wind. It is built of granite, and contains a curious 13th-centy. font, and accord ing to tradition the bones of St. la. The waggon-roof is very handsome, elaborately carved, and has figures of angels at the springing of the braces; there are also some good carved bench-ends ; a portion of the screen remains which was presented by Ralph Clies, the master-smith at the building of the ch., aud bears the supposed portraits of himself and his wife, and the implements of his trade. There is a Cross in the ch.-yard carved with relief of the Virgin and Child and of the Cruci fixion. The Pier was constructed in 1767, by Smeaton, the architect of the Eddystone lighthouse ; and a break water was commenced 1816, but abandoned after an outlay of 5000i. It would have rendered the bay, which is now exposed to the N. and E., a secure anchorage. The project, however, may yet be earried out, as the completion of the break water was recommended by a Com mittee of the House of Commons in 1859, and the fitness of St. Ives for a harbour of refuge is still under con sideration. The harbours of Hayle, Portreatb, and St. Agnes are within the jurisdiction of this port. is one of the largest tin concerns in the county, ond remarkable for a lode of extraordinary size, which is known as the Corbona, and has been worked full 60 ft. in length, breadth, aud height. The neigh bourhood bristles with rugged rock- strewn hills, of which Bosewall, S.W., has a logan stone on its eastern sum mit. An eminence to the S., and 545 ft. above the sea, is crowned by a granite Pyramid erected 1782, by one Knill, an eccentric bencher of Gray's Inn. This person originally intended it as a mausoleum for his remains, but he revoked this intention, and left his body by will to the anato mists of London. Knill died in 1811, leaving directions that, at the end of every 5 years, a matron and 10 maidens dressed in white should walk in procession, with music, from the market-house to this pyramid, around which they should dance, singing the 100th Psalm. He bequeathed for the purpose of perpetuating this custom some lands, which are vested in the officiating minister, the mayor, aud the col lector of the port of St. Ives. St. Ives is a parliamentary borough whichlostan M.P. by the Reform Bill. It was incorporated 1639, mainly through the exertions of Francis Basset, of Tehidy, who, as M.P. for the borough, presented to the town the "loving cup" which graces the mayor's table ut the meetings of the corporation. It is surmounted by the figure of a man in armour resting on the shield of the Bassets. It is of silver gilt, and bears the following inscription : — " If any discord 'twixt my friends arise Within the borough of beloved St. Ives, It is desyred that this my cup of love To everie one a peacemaker may prove ; Then I am bU-st to have given a kgacie So like my harte unto posteritie. Francis Basset, 1640." There are several mines in the St. Ives was the birthplace (1713) vicinity of St. Ives. The St. Ices | of Jonathan Toup, the editor of Lon- Consols, situated close to the town, ginus. 126 Boute 33. — Zennor Quoit. Excursions. (a) To St. Michael's Mount (see Rte. 29) by Rail to Marazion Road Stat. (6) To Zennor Quoit and Gur nard's Head. See Penzance, Excur sion g, p. 82. The return journey to Penzance by Zennor is about 11 or 12 m. of hilly road, and will take nearly 2 hours. The road leaves St. Ives by its W. entrance, and immediately commences a long steep ascent ; the views, from which, seawards and E., are exceedingly beautiful in clear weather. On reaching St. Ives Con sols (the road goes through the middle of the mine), a road turns 1. to Towdenack and Halsetown. Our road still ascends: on 1., Tre- valgan Hill (Trev-alcan = place of tin i, a fine rough hill covered with granite boulders. A fine view back wards, from the highest point of the road, before it descends again, should be noticed. The road now winds along, having rough granite hills and furzy crofts on the 1., a great expanse of sea § m. to the rt. ; the cliffs of no great height, but an ugly neighbourhood for a ship in a storm. The hill over Zennor is covered with remarkable horizontally divided masses of granite in many places, reminding one of the Cheesewring. Here is Zennor Quoit (5 m.), the finest cromlech in the district. It lies on an elevated plain, nearly ^ m. E. of Zennor ch., and consists of a double "kistvaen" (stone chest), with a covering slab which measures 18 ft. in length, 11 in breadth, and 48 in circumference. One end of this stone rests on the ground as it has slipped off the 7 upright stones which originally supporteted it. The cromlech belongs to the same class as Arthur's Quoit, in Gower, South Wales, which bad 10 or 11 supporters. In Borlase's time the heap of stones, 14 yds. in diameter, under which the whole structure was buried, almost reached the edge of the quoit or horizontal slab when resting on its supporters. It seems probable that this cromlech is the largest in the British islands. The road passes within 200 yds. of Zen nor ch., plain, and of no great in terest It contains a font of the late Dec. period, and some remains of carved bench-ends, on one of which is the figure of a mermaid. On the further side of the ch. from us (towards the sea) is a small logan stone, 19 ft. long, 3 thick, called the " Giant's Rock." " It rooks admirably if any one stands upon it on the corner nearest the church." At Pennance, in this pa rish, is a remarkable barrow, resem bling the "giants' graves " in Scilly. A road rt. leads from Zennor to the Gurnard's Head, about 2 m. distant, which can be combined with this excursion (see the Excursion g.); otherwise our, and the best, road turns away over the hill to the 1. ; from the top of the hill the Gur nard's Head can be seen and a view of both channels. The road from hence is not very interesting till near Penzance. It joins the direct road from Penzance to the Gurnard's Head, under Mulfra Quoit. See Rte. 31. From Zennor to Penzance is about 7 m. Boute 34. — Plymouth to Falmouth : Coast Boad. 127 and heavy metal, and command every conceivable approach to the harbour. The keep, an immense mass of masonry, stands between the battery and the barracks. The ground between the fort and the sea has been levelled so as to form a glacis, to be swept by guns in the recesses of the fort. Screasdon Fort, about H m. distant, mounts 40 guns and mortars. The carriage-road is that to Lis keard as far as the head of the Lynher estuary, which terminates at the picturesque hamlet of Polbathick, 8j m. from Torpoint and 1 m. from St. Germans. From the pretty val ley beyond Polbathick the Looe road branches off on the 1., ascending through a wooded coomb to very high ground, and then descending abruptly to the retired village of Hessenford {Inn : Cornish Arms), delightfully situated in a deep and wooded bot tom, on a stream (called the Seaton river — it enters the sea near a farm of that name) which flows from the Bodmin moors by St. Cleer. From this point the road again climbs a long fatiguing hill, and passes for some distance over elevated land to its junction with the road from Liskeard to Looe. There it turns toward the sea, commanding on the rt. a view of the woods of Morvul Bouse (John Francis Buller, Esq.), and soon ascends to the ch. of St. Martin, near the summit of the ridge which shelters the romantic town and inlet of Looe (see post). The bridle-road from Torpoint passes through Antony to Lower Tregantle about 4 m. In the cliff near the hamlet of Bigher Tregantle, a short distance E., is a cavern called Lugger's Cave or Sharrow Grot. It was excavated by a lieutenant in the navy of the name of Lugger, who, during the American War, being stationed near the spot, and sorely troubled by the gout, undertook the work as a means of cure. The cavern in itself possesses no particular interest, but ROUTE 34. PLYMOUTH (RAME HEAD) TO FAL MOUTH, BY I.OOE, FOWEY, AND ST. AUSTEIJ. (THE SOUTH COAST). Steamers run from Plymouth to Falmouth and Penzance many times a week. The coast of Cornwall is well seen from them ; but they touch at Mevagissey only between Ply mouth and Falmouth. The places of interest on the coast are best seen by following the road described in the present route, or by visiting them from the chief stations on the rail way — Liskeard (for Looe), Lostwi thiel (for Fowey), St. Austell (for Mevagissey and Veryan Bay), and Truro (for the creeks of the Fal mouth river). The traveller crosses the Bamoaze by Steam ferry to Torpoint. From Torpoint the traveller can proceed to Looe either by the very hilly car riage-road, 18 m., or by a bridle-road, about 14 m., through Antony and Lower Tregantle, and near the cliffs of Whitesand Bay. At Tregantle the most important of the western defences of Ply mouth has been constructed (see Plymouth, Hdbk. Devon, Rte. 7). A peninsula is formed by the Lynher river (which runs to the Hamoaze), the neck of which from the river to Whitsand Bay is about 2 m. in breadth. Here 2 forts have been completed — Screasdon on the river, and Tregantle by the sea. The latter, 400 ft. above the sea-level, looks across the peninsula to Devon- port Dockyard. The guns (100) mounted here are of wide range 128 Boute 34. — Bame Head— Looe. it commands a delightful view over the broken shore and outspread waters of the bay. About 3 m. from this cave is the well-known promontory of the Rame Bead (Ruim, Brit, a headland which, projecting into the Channel from Maker Heights (402 ft. above the sea), constitutes the S.E. point of the county, and the termination of a semicircular range of cliffs which sweep eastward from I.ooe along the margin of Whitesand Bay. These cliffs here bend to the N., girding the shore of Plymouth Sound. The headland is crowned with the ruin of a chapel (ded. to St. Michoel — it is without architectural features), and commands a view of the Cornish coast as far W. as the Li zard. ( A bout KiO yards W. of the extreme point of Rame Head, Mr. Peugelly found in 1852, the "Polperro fossils" (see post), " confined to about 1 0 yds. in length, of one thin stratum." The lighthouse on the Eddystone (Hdbk. for Devon, Rte. 7; rises from the distant waves, and the woods of Mount Edg cumbe crown the adjoining hills. Inland,^ about 1 m. from Rame Head, is Rame Church, a Dec. building, not unlike the ch. of Sheviock (Rte. 23), with W. tower and spire, and an ancient reredos. The tower of Ma \er Church is a conspicuous object in this neighbourhood, and the view from it is unrivalled. The church, in itself of no great interest, contains several monuments to the Edgcumbes and other families, and from its com manding position the tower was em ployed during the French war as a signal station communicating with Mount Wise at Devonport. It is 2 m. from Devonport. When Dodrnm and Rame Head meet, is a West Coun try proverb denoting an impossibility. Dodman is the W. point of Veryan Bay. The desecrated Chapel of St. Juliet (S. Julitta, mother of St. Cyrus ) at Inceworth, in Maker parish, has beautiful Dec. details. There is an undercroft used as a stable. E. on the shore of the Sound lie the villages of Kingsaud and Caw- sand, separated by a gutter, and at one time noted places for smuggling. Cawsand Bay, being sheltered by the Rame Head from westerly gales, i\as used as the principal anchorage previous to the construction of the Breakwater. (A wide military road has been constructed from Cawsand along the cliffs as far as Tregantle Fort, which the tourist may, if he pleases, follow. It commands very grand views over Whitesand Bay.) From these villages there ranges towards Redding Point a porphyritic rock, which Sir H. De la Beche was inclined to refer to the era of the lower part of the new red sandstone, a formation prevailing in the E. of De^on. Whitesand Bay, so called from the whiteness of the sand, abounds in beautiful and romantic coast scenery, but is justly dreaded by sailors as the scene of many a fatal disaster. N.B. The abruptness of the shore and the prevalence of quicksands make it dangerous also for bathers. The beach and cliff afford abundant matter for the naturalist. From Lower Tregantle the distance to Looe is about 10 in., and the traveller can proceed for some way along the Batten Cliffs by a bridle path. 18 m. from Torpoint. — Looe. {Inn: Ship). This fishing-town, divided by the estuary of the same name into E. and VV. Looe (Pop. together, 1924), is a small place romontically situated in a deep recess, the ac clivities above it being hung with gardens, in which the myrtle, hydrangea, and geranium flourish the year round in the open air. It is an old-fashioned town,- which has descended to us, not very greatly changed, from the time of Edward 1. It is intersected by narrow lanes, and, before the road was made along Boute 34. — Looe — Trelawne. 129 the water-side, was approached from the eastward by so steep a path that travellers were in fear of being pre cipitated upon the roofs. Some of the little tenements have external wooden stairs leading to a doorway in the upper storey. The estuary, confined by lofty hills, was spanned by a bridge. The towns (ancient boroughs) of East and West Looe are quite worth a short visit from those in search of the picturesque. The streets remind one of the small towns on the shore of the Mediter ranean, except that those are filthy while these of Looe are very clean. Fixed up in the porch of the modern town hall at East Looe are the remains of the Pillory, one of the very few in England. The Perp. Ch. tower is picturesque, but the main building is modern, of the " pre- Gothic" period. The little chapel of West Looe, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was (1862) rescued from desecration and restored by the Buller family and the incumbent (Col. Somers Cocks, hon. architect). It has a pretty ch.-like aspect on a very humble scale. Until lately it served as the town-hall, and was used by strolling players. The view from the sea-side presents a dark array of sombre cliffs, and a rocky islet 170 ft. high, which, once the haunt of numberless sea birds, and crowned by a chapel of St. George, is now used as a station by the coast-guard. A battery of 3 guns has been raised to defend the mouth of the harbour. Some delightful excursions can be made in the vicinity of Looe, such as a walk along the coast to Talland and Polperro, or in the opposite direction to the shore of Whitesand Bay. That to the Inlet of Trelawne Mill is one the most worthy the stranger's attention, and may be easily ac complished in a boat. This inlet opens into the Looe river immedi ately above the bridge, and furnishes [Cornwall^] perhaps the most beautiful scene of the kind in Cornwall — the shelv ing hills being steep and lofty, and literally covered with trees from the water's edge to the summit The rt. bank belongs to Trelawne (that is, Fox's Place — Sir J. 8. Trelawny, Bart., an ancient seat of this family"), and the 1. to Trenant Park, formerly the property of Mr. Henry Hope, the author of ' Anastasius,' in whose time it com manded the Borough of E. Looe, hut now of Win, Peel, Esq. Trelawne is a fine old house. The south wing, which was in com plete disrepair, was rebuilt, 18G2, in very good style, by Sir John Tre lawny. " The chapel is of the 15th century, with a good open timber roof, restored. The windows are plain late Perp., the rest all modern or modernized. The tower and 2 doorways of the hall are of the 15th or early 16th; the hall itself is modernized : the passage through remains, with the doorways at each end. The battlement on the hall, and another small square turret at the opposite end, and a good Perp. buttress between the windows, should be noticed. . . This house is said by Lysons to have been built by Lord Bonville, temp. Hen. VI."— J. H. P. (This Lord Bonville — the last of the ancient family of the Bonvilies of Shute in Devonshire — acquired Tre lawne. by the will of Sir John Herle. He was beheaded, by order of Q. Margaret, after the second battle of St. Alban's. His granddaughter, Lady Harington, had a large dower as signed to her by Ed. IV., out of Lord Bonville's Cornish estates. Her daughter brought Trelawne to Tho mas Grey, Marquis of Dorset — and on the attainder of his grandson, the Duke of Suffolk, it was seized by the Crown. In 1600 Sir Jonathan'Tre- lawny bought this place from the Crown, and it has since been the chief seat of the family. It is not however the " Trelawne" from which 130 Boute 34. — Looe—Morval—St. Martin's. the " Trelawnys" are named. This is in the par. of Alternon. Here are many valuable pictures, including two portraits of Sir Jonathan Tre lawny, Bishop of Winchester (see post, Pelynt ch.), one of which is by Sir Godfrey Kneller. There is also an original portrait of Bp. Atterbury, who was chaplain to Bp. Trelawny, and another of Queen Eliz. when young — a gift of that princess to Sir Jonathan Trelawny, who was related to the royal family, and purchased this estate from the crown. At the head of the inlet, on the wooded heights, are remains of a circular encampment connected with a rampart or raised bank, which ex tended from this point through Lan- reath to the large earthwork on Bury Down, isolating a tract of country on the coast. Some suppose this line of defence to have been thrown up by the Danes, but it is more probably an ancient line of demarca tion between Saxons and Britons. At Lanreath, in Borlase's time, it was 7 ft. high and 20 ft. wide. It proceeds in a straight line, up and down hill indifferently, for at least 7 miles, and is popularly called the Giant's Hedge. It is of course as signed to the devil, and the local saying runs — " One day the devil having nothing to do Built a great hedge from Lerrin to Looe." In a field called the Warren, on the estate of Kilmenorth, not far E. from Trelawne and near the Giant's Hedge, is a circular stone enclosure with 2 entrances. Another interesting relic in the valley of Trelawne is St. Non's, St. Ninnie's, or Piskies' Well. It is on the rt. bank of the river, and has been restored. (St. Non was the mother of St. David of Wales. She has also a well at Alternon, where the ch. is ded. to her (see Rte. 21). The visitor to Looe should also proceed by boat or road up the course of the estuary, as far as the lock, to which point the winding shores present a waving sheet of fo liage. He will notice in this excur sion on the 1. bank, about 1 m. from Looe, an inlet which is confined by a causeway : it has the appearance of a wood-encircled lake, and is bor dered by the demesne of Morval Bouse, an ancient mansion, seat of J. F. Buller, Esq. (but not, as is generally asserted, the birthplace of Judge Buller, who was born at Downes near Crediton in 1746). In earlier times it had been a possession of the Glynns. The ramble may be extended with advantage by the side of the canal to the village of Sandplace, 2 J m. from Looe, where the scenery deserves particular no tice. From this village a road as cends the opposite bank to the village of Duloe, near which are the remains of an ancient circle of stones (Rte. 23 — walk from Liskeard to Looe) ; and from Duloe St. Keyne's Well is not above 2 m. distant. If the traveller should wish to walk from Looe to Liskeard, the path by the canal, 9 m. (a common course), is to be preferred to the carriage-road. From Moorswater down the valley to Looe there is now a Railway to convey ore and granite to be shipped. From the harbour of Looe there is a considerable export of copper-ore and granite, and during the season the pilchard-fishery is actively pur sued. The remains of fossil trees have been found beneath the shore at a place called Millendreath, 1 m. E. The parish ch., St. Martin's, stands on high ground above E. Looe, and for 34 years was the living of the Rev. Jonathan Toup, editor of Lon- ginus. There is a Norm, door in St Martin's Church, nearly buried by a modern porch. The font is curious, of Norm, character. The ch. of Pelynt, 4 m. N.W., contains monu ments and effigies of the Achyms, Bullers, and Trelawnys, and the pas toral staff of Sir Jonathan Trelawny, one of the 7 bishops committed to the Tower brf a mes II., and in whose Boute 34. — Plymouth to Falmouth — Polperro. 131 behalf the Cornish miners were ready to march to London to the ringing burden of their song— "And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen? And shall Trelawny die ? Here's twenty thousand Cornish men Will know the reason why." The staff is of wood, gilt. Its copper ornaments were struck by lightning some years since, and partially fused. Pelynt Church was restored and beautified (?) by Sir Jonathan Tre lawny so completely, that it is one of the ugliest in Cornwall. The tower is Dec. (Tregarrick in this par. was the old seat of the Win- slades, one of whom suffered death as a chief leader of the Cornishmen in the rising of 1549 (see Rte. 6, Sampford Courtenay). The Win- slades, like the Coplestones in De vonshire, were hereditary " Esquires of the White Spur" (see Coplestone, Hdbk.for Devon, Rte. 17). The son of the Winslade who suffered in 1549, having lost his lands on his father's attainder, led, says Carew, " a walk ing life, with his harpe, to gentle men's houses ; wherethrough, and by his other active qualities, he was entitled Sir Tristram." Tregarrick is now a farmhouse.) Proceeding from Looe towards Fowey — 2 m. is Talland, in a little bay closely invested by hills. The Church (with an E. Eng. east end) stands detached from its tower, which is built on slightly higher ground. The ch. ded. to St. Tallan (Teilo ?) has been restored ; and during the " opera tion " two series of wall paintings, one above the other, were found on the N. wall. The lower series was in colour, and contained among other subjects a large design of the Cruci fixion. In the upper series, on a thin layer of plaster, covering the lower, was a large figure of the evil spirit, horned and hoofed as usual, with a dark mantle fastened round his shoulders. Unfortunately these paintings were destroyed before any drawings of them could be taken. East of the ch. is the old manor- house of Killigarth, in which Sir William Beville, temp. Eliz., kept alive such true West country hospi tality as is not yet forgotten. There are Greek and Latin inscriptions on the exterior ; and what is now a bedroom on the 2nd floor, has a vaulted ceiling divided into com partments, "each of which contains some event in the history of Para dise, illustrated by grotesque figures of its winged and 4-footed inha bitants." A charming path pursues a winding course along the cliffs to l£ m. Polperro {Inn : the Ship), a fishing village in a situation emi nently romantic, nestling, as it were, on the rocky shore and ledges of an inlet, which enters among the hills through a fissure in a dark coast of transition slate. Jonathan Couch, F.L.S., author of a very pleasant ' History of Polperro,' — whose name is well known to all naturalists — was born here in 1789, and died 1870. His life was passed in his native place as a " country doctor." Pol perro is an ancient place, mentioned by Leland as " a fishar towne with a peere." Some of the older houses (those on the S. side of Lansallos Street near the river) are worth notice. The lower floor is generally used as a fish-cellar, the second or dwelling room being reached by a flight of steps ending in a porch, locally called an " orrel " (oriel ?). The views from Chapel Hill (where are some relics of a chapel ded. to St. Peter, patron of fishermen — it probably gave name to the place, Pol Peyre = Peter's Pool) and from the top of Brent Hill are fine and interesting, looking far and wide over the sea, with the village of Polperro curiously nestled below. The rocks and beach are of great interest to the geologist. On the beach, inside the old quay, are re- k 2 132 Boute 34. — Polperro — Megavissey. mains of a submerged forest — part of that which is found at intervals all round the Cornish const, fiom Ply mouth to Podstow. The trees here occur in a stratum of blue clay, beneath coarse gravel. In the rocks what are known as the " Polperro fossils " were discovered by the late Mr. Jonothan Couch in 1842. They are especially abundant in a space of half-a-mile on either side of Pol perro, and are found almost exclu sively on the under surface of the slate. They range between high- water mark and a line of 50 ft. above it. They are fragmentary and un defined, and mostly consist of " a jet or bluish enamelled surface, marked wifh minute furrowed striee, and an internal surface irregularly cel lular, sometimes half-an-inch thick, in other instances as thin as a wafer. Here and there are spines tolerable distinct in outline." These fossils are now shown, with tolerable cer tainty, to belong to a species of Ptcmspis. They are found, as has been said, in rocks of the Devonian system, generally held to be of the same age as the Old Red Sandstone. The road from Polperro leads through a deep valley to high ground, where Lunsallos Ch., a sea-mark, will be ob served on the 1. The ch. is Perp. with earlier portions ; in it, accord ing to William of Worcester, lies St. Hyldren, " episcopus," of whom no thing is known. A short distance further rt. is the ch. of Lanteglos. mainly Dec. with a Perp. tower. The font is E. Eng. There are Brasses for Thomas Mohun, 1440; and John Mohun and wife, died 1508, of the " sweating sickness." (It is recorded that St. Mancus, a "hermit," is buried here.) The ch., which is worth a visit, is falling into ruin from neglect. The road then de scends to Fowey Harbour at Bodin- nick Ferry. Fowey is described in Rte. 36. Proceeding on our road from Fowey, we skirt Tywardreth or St. Blazey Bay. At Tywardreth was a Benedictine Priory, founded as a cell to the monastery of S. Sergius and S. Bacchus at Angers, by a cer tain Richard, "dapifer," or steward, who held the manor under the E. of Cornwall, at the time of the Domesday Survey. It was suppressed as alien in 1414, but was afterwards restored and naturalized. There are no remains of the conventual build ings. We soon reach St. Austell Stat. (Ete. 23). From here the road turns S., running nearly parallel with the Pentowan China-clay Railway to 5 m. Mevagissey {Inn: the Ship). This fishing-town, noted for pil chards, dirt, and had smells, derives its name from two saints, St. Meva and St. Issey (Pop. 1914). It is situated in a hilly district upon the shore of a beautiful bay, which, bounded on the N. by the Black Head (alt. 1 53 ft.) , on the S. by Chapel Point, commands a view of the coast as far as the Rame Head. The harbour is capacious, with a depth of 1 8 ft. within the pier at high-water spring tides, and of 12 during the neaps. There has long existed a jealousy between the fishermen of this place and their neighbours of Gorran Haven, a village 3 m, S. Mevagissey Church con tains a very curious font of Norm. character, and probable date, also several old monuments. In 1 849 Me vagissey was so severely visited by the cholera, that the fishermen, with their families, embarked in their boats and sought safety in Fowey Haven. One good resulted — a tho rough cleansing of the town ; the inhabitants encamping on the neigh bouring fields while the necessary operations were being effected. A delightful road runs near the cliffs from Mevagissey to Portmellin (i.e. yellow port), a fish ing-cove distant about 1 m. S. Here are remains of a double entrench- Boute 34. — Portmellin — Very an, 133 ment and a mound called Castle Bill ; and in the neighbourhood a farm house, once part of a splendid man sion, which belonged to an old Cornish family named Bodrigan. They were pulled down about 17S6. A great barn remains. A rock on the coast near Chapel Point (^the S. horn of Me vagissey Bay) still bears the name. It is called Bfdrigan's Leap, from a. tradition that Sir Henry Bod rigan, having been convicted of trea son in the reign of Henry VII., here sprang down the cliff when flying from his neighbours Edgcumbe and Trevanion, who were endeavouring to take him. He is said to have been so little injured by the fall as to have gained a vessel sailing near the shore, and to have escaped into France. The mansion of the Trevanions stood in the parish of St. Michael Cir- hayes, N. VV. of the Dodman Head. A Gothic building, by the architect of Buckingham Palace, now occupies the site, and the only thing to interest the antiquary in the present Castle of Carhayes (J. M. Williams, Esq.) is a stone sculptured with the royal arms (temp. Henry VI II.), which is fixed to the wall of the entrance hall. Here however is preserved (removed from Scorrier near Redruth) a valuable cabinet of minerals, principally Cor nish, including several large pieces of Cornish gold. The parish Church is hung with the rusty helmets, swords, and gauntlets of the old family of Trevanion, in cluding a sword said to have been wielded by Sir Hugh Trevanion in the battle of Bosworth Field. (John Trevanion was one of the " four wheels of Charles's wain " — " The four wheels of Charles's wain, Grenville, (xudulphin, Trevanion, Slanning, slain." He and Sir Nicholas Slanning fell at the siege of Bristol. "They were the life and soul of the Cornish re giment," says Clarendon ; " both young, neither of them above 28 ; of entire friendship to each other, and to Sir Beville Grenville, whose body was not yet buried.") Gorran is 2 m. S. from Mevagissey. The tower of the church dates from 1606, and the body of the building contains a monument to Richard Edgcumbe of Bodrigan, 1656. The Dodman, i.e. Dod maen, " stone of position," from its being one of the most conspicuous headlands on the S. coast, is associated with a grander headland in the Cornish proverb, " When Rame Head and Dodman meet." This, says Fuller, has come to pass, for they have met in the possession of the same owner, Sir Pierce Edgcumbe, who enjoyed the one in his own right, and the other in right of his wife. It is a wild and remote point, 379 ft. above the sea. The cliffs of Veryan Bay, W. of the Dodman, afford an excellent section of various Devonian rocks, asso ciated with trap and conglomerates, as the coast-line cuts the strike of the beds, which is S.W. On the cliffs W. of Penare Bead (338 ft. above the sea) are Giant Tregeagle' s Quoits, a number of huge blocks of quartz rock. (Penare Head has some serpentine rocks cropping from it.) It would be passing strange in Cornwall if the presence of such striking objects were not accounted for by a legend. Accordingly we hear that giant Tregeagle — the me lancholy monster who frequents Doz mare Pool (see Rte. 24) — hurled them to this place from the N. coast. On the shore there is a cavern called Tre- geagle's Bole, and in the immediate vicinity of the headland an enor mous mound known as Veryan or Cam Beacon (372 ft. in cir- cumf, and370ft. above the sea),which by popular accounts is the burial- placeof Gerennius (Geraint), a king of Cornwall. This traditional monarch 134 Boute 35. — Bodmin to Wadehridge. is said to have been here interred about the year 589, with his crown, and weapons, and golden boat with silver oars : accordingly, in 1855, when the barrow was opened, the proceedings were watched with considerable in terest But the visions of the golden boat were not to be realised. The presumed ashes of the old king were found, enclosed within a rude stone chest, or kistvaen — but nothing more than ashes. When the search had been completed these relics were re placed, and the excavation in the barrow filled in. The name of Gerennius is still pre served in that of the village of Gerrans (8 m. from Tregony), where an earth work called Dingerein (Geraint's castle), N. of the ch., and communi cating with the shore by an under ground passage termed the Mermaid's Bole, is pointed out as the remains of his palace. (This is the Gerennius or Geraint — a name which seems to belong in a special manner to the chieftains of West Wales — who is said to have received at Dingerein St. Teilo of Llandaff on his way to Brittany. St. Teilo returned in time to deliver the viaticum to Geraint, who lay dying. It may well be doubted whether the remains found in the Veryan mound are not of much earlier date. The legend of St. Teilo asserts that the saint, mys teriously warned in Brittany of Geraint's sickness, set sail at once and brought with him a stone " sar cophagus " for the king's body. As it could not be taken into the ship, it was let down into the sea, and floated before St. Teilo, " in portum vocatum Dingerein " (' Liber Landa- vensis,' p. 108). The peninsula W. of Gerrans is called Boseland { Rhosland = moorland) . The road is continued down to St. Mawes, on the W. side of Fal mouth Harbour, which must be crossed by the ferry to reach Fal mouth. For St. Antony's Head, Falmouth Harbour, the various creeks of the Fal river, and for Falmouth itself, see Rte. 26. ROUTE 35. BODMIN BOAD STAT. TO BODMIN, WADEBBIDGE, AND PADSTOW. Coach or Omnibus daily. To aud from the Stat, to Bodmin, 2 m., corresponding with the Trains. 2 m. Bodmin {Inns: * Royal Hotel, good; Town Arms; — Pop. of Mun. Bor., 4672) is situated nearly in the centre of the county, about 12 m. from the Bristol and English Chan nels. Here are held the sessions and assizes. The borough returned 2 members to Parliament from 1291 until 1868, when it lost one. Bodmin (the name is usually ex plained to be Bod-manach, the town of the monks : Sir J. Maclean sug gests Bod-mynydd, the dwelling under the hills), which now consists chiefly of one street, about 1 m. long, was in early times the largest town in Corn wall, although it seems always to have been regarded as somewhat re mote and difficult of approach, and an old saw runs "out of the world and into Bodmin." It was famous for its Priory, which before the Con quest was a house of Benedictine monks, and is said to have been founded by Athelstan. The Church possessed the body of its patron, St. Petrock, who is said to have been a native of Wales educated in Ireland, to have crossed to Padstow in 518, and to have settled in Bodmin, Boute 35. — Bodmin. 135 where he died in 564. 7 churches in Devonshire and 4 in Cornwall are dedicated in his honour. It was usual to make manumissions of serfs before the altar of St. Petrock ; and the priory possessed a copy of the Gospels written in the 9th centy., at the end of which are 46 entries of such manumissions, — all before the Conquest (between 941-1043). (This MS. is now in the Brit. Mus.) Bod min, called in the A.-S. Chron. St. Petroc's-stowe, was ravaged by the Northmen in 981 ; and it has been asserted that in consequence of this destruction the place of the see was removed to St. Germans. It would seem at any rate that from that time until the establishment of the united sees of Devon and Cornwall at Exeter the place of the Cornish see was in differently St. Germans and Bod min. The priory was refounded by William Warelwast, Bp. of Exeter (1107-1136), and for Augustinian canons. This house flourished until the Dissolution, when its income was 2891. The site of the priory was then sold for 100Z. to Thomas Stern- hold, the well-known versifier of the Psalms, lt has since passed through many hands. The site of the domestic buildings (S. of the ch.) is marked by the present Priory-house (Col. W. Raleigh Gilbert), in the garden of which are many fragments of capitals and columns dating from the 13th centy., and a few of early Trans. character. The existing parish Church was (ac cording to Dr. Oliver) also that of the priory, the choir serving for the convent, the nave for the parishioners. It is the largest ch. in Cornwall, and was rebuilt in late Perp. style be tween 1469-1472, except the tower and some part of the choir, which are slightly earlier. There is a S. porch and parvise. The Norm. large and irregular font should be noticed, and the tomb of Prior Vivian (died 1533) at the end of the N. aisle, where itwas placed in 1S19. The effigy represents him fully vested. Near the font is a pillar piscina, re moved from the chancel, and now serving as an alms-box. An ugly transparency serves for an E. window. The W. window was filled with stained glass in 1868, as a memorial of the late vicar, the Rev. J. Wallis, Cemented into a shallow framework are the fragments of a curiously in scribed stone slab, which has been considered to be of great antiquity, but is now shown to he not earlier than 1557. Remark also, in the N. chancel arch, a slab with figures of the 2 wives of Richard Durant, d. 1632, with their 20 children. The verses should be read, beginning — "During their lives had Durant wives Jowdy and Kathren namde, Both feared God and eke his rodd, so well their liies they framde." The ch. has an excellent peal of bells and chimes, which play an old Flemish air at the hours of 4, 8, and 12. In the keeping of the Town Clerk (to whom application must be made for seeing it) is a very remarkable Ivory Casket, which there is reason to believe served for some time as a re liquary, in which the bones of St. Petrock were enclosed. In the year 1177 one of the canons of the priory stole the relics, and fled with them to the abbey of St. Meen (Mevenni) in Brittany. The prior of Bodmin appealed in person to Henry II., who ordered Roland of Dinan, justiciar of Brittany, to obtain restitution of the relics. He threatened to storm the abbey. The bones of St. Petrock were restored ; and Prior Roger brought back his treasure in an ivory shrine. This is probably the " theca eburnea" which is still preserved at Bodmin. It is a casket composed of thin slabs of polished ivory, enriched with gold and colour, the-devices being birds, foliage, and geometrical com binations within circles. The length is 1 ft. 6 in. ; height 1 ft. The work is 136 Boute 35. — Bodmin : Public Buildings — all.~\ machinery, the water can at any time be emptied in one minute through valves with which a chain communi cates; this chain being ingeniously made to wind and unwind as the buckets ascend and descend, so as to be always of the proper length. A steam-engine is also at hand, should the buckets become unserviceable. This canal extends from Bude to Launeeston, sending off a branch to Holsworthy, and the barges climb from one level to another by 7 of these inclined planes. 1^ m. Bude Haven {Inns: Falcon Hotel, best; Bude Hotel). Many lodgings. Coach to Holsworthy Stat 10 m. Rail thence to Okehampton, Exeter, and Plymouth, see Rte. 23. Bude is a small but growing water ing-place on a grand and singular coast. It commands delightful sea- views and is begirt by unfrequented hills. (The distance from Bude to Clovelly is 18 m., see Rte. 39. From Bude to Tintagel, 21 m., Rte. 21.) The Haven consists of the mouth of the Bude Canal, opening to a shallow bay, the sand of which has been blown inland by the N.W. winds, and is heaped to some distance in arid dunes. In the midst of these hillocks, and opposite to the hotel, is the house built by Sir Goldsworthy Gurney, the inventor of the Bude Light, and of other ingenious applications of science to the arts of life. The bathing here is peculiar. The tides are too violent for machines, and canvas tents are erected on the sands for the use of the bathers, who have to encounter high and heavy waves rolling in from the Atlantic.' The shore is however shallow for some distance out, and a jump carries the bather over each wave and lands him safely beyond it. Swimming is not easy. There is no land between Bude and Newfound land, and sharks have been known to make their appearance in Bude L 146 Boute 37. — Bude Haven — St. Gennys. Haven. The bay is sheltered by an embankment, which, constructed in a similar manner to the Plymouth Breakwater, connects a rock, called the Chapel Rock, with the shore ; but Bude has been the scene of many ter rible shipwrecks, as in October 1802, when a large ship, the Bencollen, was dashed to pieces here, and only two of her crew escaped. At low water this bay is a scene of consider able bustle, as -it supplies the neighbouring parts of Devon and Cornwall with sea-sand, which is used as manure and carried up the country in such amazing quantities that 4000 horse-loads have been taken from the shore in one day. The con veyance of this sand is calculated to cost 30,000Z. per annum, and forms the principal commerce on the Bude and Launeeston Canal and its branch to Holsworthy. The vast and picturesque Sea Cliffs in this part of Cornwall are a great attraction to Bude, and the climate is far drier and more free from fog than most other parts of the country, but the accommodation for visitors is still very limited. The strata, be longing to the carbonaceous forma tion, dip at right angles to the shore, and for this reason, as offering but a feeble resistance to the waves, are in a ruinous condition. The bands of strata are also so narrow and dis tinctly marked as to give a ribboned appearance to the cliffs, and are everywhere varied by the most irre gular contortions. Compass Point, on the W. side of the haven, commands an excellent view of this rugged coast, and is crowned by an octagonal tower, a temple of the winds, the sides of which are turned to the 8 cardinal points. At the foot of this tower is a seat from which a very singular ridge projects into the sea, since it resembles a wall, the surfaces being smooth and precipitous. A striking cliff in the neighbourhood is Beacon Hill, i m. W., presenting a sheer precipice of about 300 ft.: but the points most calculated to delight and astonish the traveller are the head lands of Bennacliff, N. of Bude, alt. 450 ft., and the 'Hazard, the west ern boundary of Widemmdh Bay, alt. 550 ft. Excursions. {a) The walk along the road from Bude to Boscastle is a very delight ful one. A good road, close to the coast, has been made to St. Gennys, about 10 m. from Bude by road, but shorter for the pedestrian, who can keep on the turf by the roadside and diverge to each point of the cliffs as he pleases. After leaving the Beacon Hill he will pass Widemouth, Black road, Melhuach (Mellook), where the water is deep close in shore and a harbour of refuge has been sometimes suggested, — till opposite Dazard Point the road turns somewhat inland to avoid the " bottoms," — and the pedes trian will make his way by farm roads to St. Genny's " church-town," quaintly nestled in a hollow near the top of a hill. The Church is poor, but picturesquely placed on a slope so steep that the upper part of the churchyard is nearly level with the roof. The hill above the village is Benliinna Head, and the view at the end of the point is among the finest on this coast. Immediately below is Crackington Cove, bounded on the other side by the cloven head land of Cambeck. Rough refreshment may be had at Badger Cottage : the only place be tween Bude and Boscastle. The lofty heights of Respar- vell Down tower up S.W., and the black cliffs of Boscastle and Tintagel are seen to great ad vantage. On the N. observe Castle Point, separated from the mainland Boute 37. — Bude — Kilkhampton. 147 by a deep valley on the S., and connected with it by a narrow ridge E. On the summit are remains of a circular camp. The pedestrian can then descend to Crackington Cove (Rte. 22), and proceed to Boscastle over ResparveU Down, resting awhile on the barrow on the summit to observe the extensive prospect. Brown Willy and Roughtor are well seen ; and the three church towns of Forrabury, Trevalga, and Tin tagel stand nearly in a line more or less S.E. {b) Bude to Monvenstow and Strat ton by Kilkhampton, about 10 m., a rough and hilly road. (Beside the books of the Rev. R. S. Hawker, — see Morwenstow, post — without a full acquaintance with which no one should visit this district, Mr. G. Macdonald's ' Annals of a Seaboard Parish' contains much admirable description of this coast, including Bude and Tintagel.) At Ponghill, 1J m. N.E. of Bude, is a Perp. church with a fine pin nacled tower, and ancient carved benches. Near the village is the old farmhouse of Burshill, now owned and occupied by a Mr. Jewell, but before, for 16 generations, the home of a family named Bryant. Here is preserved a very remarkable bed stead which passes by the name of "King Charles's," and is said to have been the couch of Charles I. after the battle of Stamford Hill — of course untruly, since the king was not there. The head-board is covered with bronzed groups, repre senting a war-chariot, horses, &c. ; the large posts are also ornamented with bronze. It is probably Eliza bethan, if not earlier. Kilhhampton (Pop. 1198) is situated 5 m. N.E. from Bude, the road to it being uphill the greater part of the way. The Church is an ancient struc ture built by the Granvilles (or Grenvilles, who became lords of the manor very soon after the Con quest). It was the scene of Hervey's ' Meditations among the Tombs.' It has much interesting Norman work, the finest portion being the S. door, with shafts and bands and beak-head and zigzag mould ings. The rest of the ch. is chiefly Perp. Here is a monument to the memory of Sir Beville Gren ville, the hero of Stamford Hill; who was killed at the bottle of Lansdown in 1643. The inscription should be read. The coffins of the Earls of Bath are deposited in a vault under the E. end of the S. aisle, where, says Hervey, "they lie ranged in mournful order, in a sort of silent pomp." They are partly covered with copper-plates bearing the arms and titles of their occupants. This vault, when Hervey wrote, was open ; but it has long been properly closed. The church was admirably restored (1860) by The Rev. Lord John Thynne, under the superintendence of Mr. G. G. Scott. There is a very wide view over sea and land from the top of the ch. tower. Brown Willy and Roughtor are visible, and the coast southward to Trevire Head. The Grenvilles — who, as the inscrip tion on Sir Beville's monument re cords, profess to be " descended in a direct line from Robert, 2nd son of the warlike Rollo, 1st Duke of Nor mandy " — were long seated at Stow, a magnificent mansion above the neigh bouring village of Combe. John, 3rd son of Sir Beville Grenville, re built it 1680. He had been created, 1661, Earl of Bath, a title which be came extinct on the early death of his grandson, 1711. Stow then de scended to his sister, widow of George Lord Carteret, created Coun tess Granville, and through her it came to the present possessor, the Rev. Lord John Thynne. The house was dismantled 1720, and a moated site is at I his day the only vestige of it. The corner of the wood, at which Sir Beville appeared to his wife after 148 Boute 37. — Morwenstow. his death on Lansdowne field, is still pointed out. Pictures of Stow in its old grandeur will be found in Kingsley's ' Westward Ho.' The grandfather of Sir Beville Grenville was Sir Richard, a very distin guished seaman ; who in 1591, being then Vice-Admiral of England, was sent with a squadron of 7 ships to intercept the Spanish galleons. He fell in with the enemy's fleet of 52 sail near the Terceira Islands ; re pulsed them 15 times in a continued fight, and died himself, two days later, on board the ship of the Spanish commander. It is to this that the lines on Sir Beville's monu ment refer — ¦ " Where shall the next, famed Granville's ashes stand? Thy grandsire tills the sea, and thou the land." The smill manor-house facing the sea, in a very exposed situation, was built for the present possessor by Mr. G. G. Scott Just below Stow is " King Wil liam's Bridge," to the building of which K. Wm. IV. gave 20/. at the suggestion of the Rev. R. S. Hawker. Combe Valley is the name of a pic turesque bottom, commencing just N. of Kilkhampton and opening to the sea between lofty cliffs ; and farther N. the country towards the hamlet of Morwenstow is here and there furrowed by deep hollows, which are prettily wooded. The coast in the neighbourhood is every where magnificent and at Stanbury Creek "exhibits a fine example of the curvatures and contortions of rocks, the strata being heaped on each other apparently in utter con fusion, dipping towards every point of the compass and at various de grees of inclination." In the parish of Kilkhampton is a curious old manor- house called Aldercombe, belonging to Sir G. S. Stucley, Bart It is 1 7th centy., and a very good speci men of the gentleman's house of that period. Morwenstow is 4 m. N.W. of Kilk hampton, and 7 m. from Stratton, on a height bounded by cliffs 420 ft. above the sea; and, though a poor village in itself, contains a splendid old Church, of great interest to the eeclesiologist lt is chiefly Norman, and the S. door and elaborately sculptured caps, and arches of the nave are well worthy of notice. There are besides a Norm, font, an ela borate screen, and monuments to the Kempthornes, the Waddons, and other Cornish families now extinct. The ch. contains a curious old pitch- pipe. The porch is covered with short ferns (not the true Maidenhair, but Asptenium tricliomanes) ; and in the ch.-yard, through the drifting spray, are discerned memorials, including the graves of 3 entire crews of ships lost here, which simply tell their tale, but bear affecting tes timony to the perils of the neigh bouring shore. " All were decently consigned to Christian sepulture. They were not piled one upon an other in a common pit, but are buried side by side each in his own grave. Those who have thus honoured the dead will seldom fail in their duty to the living." {Trans. Exeter Dioc. Arch. Soc, 1864.) One of these me morials is the figure-head of a brig ; another is a battered boat, resting above the remains of those who pe rished in her ; and another the broken oars, which have been formed into a rude cross. Morwenstow was the rectory of the Rev. R. S. Hawker, author of ' Cornish Ballads and other Poems,' and 'Footprints of Former Men in Old Cornwall.' The picturesque rectory adjoins the ch. : it is of modern erection, but con tains some Jacobean wood-carving, Sir Beville Grenville's chair, and other memorials of loyal Cornish- men. Half-way down the cliffs in front is the well of St. Morwenna, Boute 37. — Bivers Tamar and Torridge. 149 the patroness. She was the daughter of an Irish king, who cured by her prayers a son of King Egbert. He built for her the monastery of Polles- worth, in Warwickshire, where she trained St Edith, St. Osyth, and many others. 3 m. from Kilkhampton, due E., is a reservoir for the supply of the Bude Canal. It covers 70 acres. About 3 m. N.E. of Kilkhamp ton the country rises in bleak and elevated hills, which are divided into furzy crofts andrush-covered swamps. Upon these, near the border of the county, the Hartland road passes close to Wooley Barrows (rt.), j m. S. of which rise the two rivers Tamar and Torridge. They drain from a dreary- bog down opposite sides of the hill, and their waters are soon a great way apart ; the one river hastening south ward in its course of 59 m. to Plymouth ; the other trending north ward, to run nearly an equal dis tance (53 m.) before it reaches the sea below. Bideford Stat. Bndbk. for Devon. ICornwall.j l 3 ( 150 ) INDEX. A. Acton Castle, 96. Adams the , astronomer, birthplace, 54. Adit, the Great, 65. Advent, 6. Agnes,St.,52. In Scilly, 121. Agnes' Beacon, St., 52. Aire, T07. Albert Bridge, Royal, 24. Aldercombe, 148. Aiternun, 53. Amalebrla, 124. Amalveor, 124. Amal-widden, 124. Amphitheatres, 49, 91, 114. Anguidal Down, 85'. Annette, 121. Head, m Anthony, St., 69. In Me- neage, St., 100. Antiquities, [14]. Antony, 127. In East, 30. House, 28, 24, 27. Apron-string, 98. Arish-mows, [13]. Armed Knight, 106, 108. Arthur, Great and Little, 123, Arthur, King, birthplace, 11. Legends, 13, 23- Arthur's Bed, 54. Cups and Saucers, 13. Grave, 6. Hall, 55. Hunting-Seat, 23. Arwenack, 67. Asparagus Island, 89. Atterey River, 2. Austell, ££.,41, 132, to Truro, 44. Avenues, Druidic, [15], 34. B. Bake, 30. Balleswidden Mine, 115. Baptisteries, 63. BOSKEDNAN. Barrow Down, 45. Bartine", 113. Basil's Well, 53. Basset's Cove, 72 Batten Cliffs, 128. Beacon Hill, 136. Beam Mine, 43. Beast, or Bass, Point, 91. Belidden Amphitheatre, 91, Bellarmine's Tor, 59. Bellurian Cove, 98. Belovely Beacon, 60. Bennet's Monastery, St., 60, Berry Court, 143. Tower, 136. Bessie's Cove, 96. Biggletubben, 124. Birds, collection of, 47, 78. Biscovey, 41. Bishop Rock, in Scilly, 121. In Mount's Bay, 94. Blackadon Rings, 30. Black Head, 99, 132. Pit, 9. Hock, 68. Blazey, St., 141, 40. Gate, 41. Bleu Bridge, 8j. Blisland, 59. Blow-holes, 22, 89. Bochyn, 88. Boconnoe, 59. Cross, 37. Bodennar, 85. Bodmin, 134, 59. Moors, 54. ¦ — - Road Stat, 37. to Bodmin, 134. Bodrigan's Leap, 133. Bodruthan Steps, 22. Bolerium (ancient), 106. Bolleit, 112. Bone, Henry, birthplace, 48. Bonithon, 88. Borlase, Dr., birthplace, 116. Grave, 76. Bosahan House, 100. Boscame, 117. Boscastle, 7. Harbour, 8. Boscawen Un Circle, 105. Boskednan Circle, 85. CAEKTHILLIAN, Boskenna, 112. , Bosphrennis, 83. Bossiney, 11. Hole, 10. Bostrea, 113. Boswavas Moor, 86. Boswedden Mine, 114. Botallack Mine, 108, 114. Bottreaux, 8. Bowethick Quarry, 14. Braddoc Church, 40. Down, 37, 40. Fight, 37. Bradstone Manor-house, 143. Bray Hill, 19. Breage, 94. Breock, St., 17. Downs, 20. Breward, St., 56. Bridges rocks, 114. Stat., 142. Brisons rocks, 114. Brothers of Grugith, 99. Browda, 14?. Brown Gilly, or Willy, 6, 54, 51- Bryher, 122. Brynn, 137. Bude, 145. to Morwenstow and Stratton, 147. Canal, 145. Haven, 145. Budock Bottom Church, 68. Bugle Stat., 142. Buller, Judge, birthplace, 130. Bumble Rock, 91. Burncoose, 71. Burngulow, 44. Buryan, St., 111. Buryas Bridge, 105. Cadgewith, 92. to Falmouth, 99. Cadoc, St., 139. Caer Bran Castle, 113. Caerthillian, 98. INDEX. 151 CAIRN. CORYTON. DOUBLEBOIS. Cairn TJny, 113. Carwen, 59. Cothele, 61. Calenick, 48. Carwinen Cromlech, 73. Couch, Jonathan, 132, Calleon Cove, 99. Cassiterides, ancient, 117. Council Barrow, 59. Callington, 63. Castell-an-Dinas, 23, 60, 81, Cove, the, 121. — — to Bude Haven, 142. 124. Coverack Cove, 99. Calliquoiter Rock, 60. Castle Carn-brea, 72. Dour, Cow and Calf R.ocks, 118. Calstock, 61. 141. Hill. 133. Horneck, Crackington Cove, 9, 146. Camborne, 72. 80, 105. Point, 146. Crantock, 23. Bay, 23. ' to Penzance, 74. Castles, [15]. Crebawethan, Great and Camel, river, 6. Valley, 17. Catchfrench, 30. Little, 121. Camelford, 6. Excursions Catherine's Fort, St., IJ9. Crellas, 85. from, 6. Cawsand, 128. Bay, 128. Crick-stone, the, 85. — — to St. Columb and Pad Chacewater, 70. Crim Rock, 121. stow, 16. Chair Ladder, 108. Crocadon House, 27. Camps, 45. Canyke Castle, 137. Chair Rock, 91. Cromlechs, [14], 23, 32, 73, Chapel Carn-bre, 113. Uny, 33. Cape Cornwall, 106, 108. 11?. Point, 132. Rock, Grosses, [17], 7,8, n, 19, 28, Caradon Hill, 31. Mines, 146. 4,-, 48, 57, 58, 64, 76, 80, 31, 32. Charles's Castle, 120. 82, 86, 87, 88, 92, 102, 105, Carbis Bay Stat., 124. Charlestown, 42, 141. no, in, 113, 116, 120, 123, Carboniferous Tocks, [233. Cheesewring, 33. 140. Carclaze Mine, 43, 141. Chick, islet, 23. Crousa Down, 99. Carclew, 48, 65, 69. China-clay works, 4?. Crowan Beacon, 73. Cardinham Bury, 59. Chun Castle, 84. Cromlech, Crown Rocks, 115. Carhayes Castle, J33. 85. Crows an ura, 105. Carmears Valley, 141. Church architecture, [15]. Cruther's Bay, 123 ; Hill, 123. Carnanton, 20. Chyandour, brook, 101. Cuby, 45. Well, 32. Carnbeak, 9. Chysawster, 83. Cuddan Point, 96. Carn Barges, 107. Chywoon Castle, 84. Cuddenbealc, 79. — — Barra, 109. Circles, Druidical, [15], 32, Cury, St., 97. Beacon, 133. 56. 59, 72, 105, 112, 114, Boscawen, 112. 116, 122. Brawse, 109. Cleer, St., 34- Down, 34- D. Crease, 107. Well, 34. Creis, 108. Clement's, St., 48. Danescombe, 62. Galva, 87. Clether, St., 53. Davey's Engine, [31]. Glos, 108. Clicker Tor, 31. Davidstow, 5. Greeb, 108. Cliff-castles, [15], 74, 107. Davy, Sir Humphry, birth Kei, IC7. Cligga Head, 52. place, 78. Portrait, 67. Kenidjack, 113, 114, 116. Climate, [14]. Dawns Men, 112. Kreigle, 108. Clowance, 73. Day, St., 71. Lea, 119. Cober, stream, 93. Dazard Head, 146. Leskez, 108. Colan, 23. I Jeep Point, 120. Marth, 71. Coldharbour, 124. Delabole Quarries, 14. — — Mellyn, 108. Coldrinick, 30. Dennis Creek, 100. ¦ Menelez, 71. Columb Major, St., 20. Devil's Bellows, 89. Cheese Morval, 118. Minor, St., 22. Porth, wring, 3i- Frying-pan, Olva, 107. 22. Road Stat, 142. 92. Jump, 57, Post-office, Pendover, 109. Combe Valley, 148. 90. Throat, 90. Scathe, no. Compass Point, 146. Devonian system, [21]. Towan, 107. Consolidated and United Devoran, 69. Venton, 108. Mines, [29], 70. Fowey, 41. Diallage-rock, [21]. — — Vessacks, no. Gwennap, 71. Par, 41. Dinas Cove, 19. Great and Voel, 109. Constantine, St., 19. Quar Little, 100. e Wethan, 108. ries, 65. Ding Dong Mine, 86, 101. Carn-brea, 72. Cook's Kitchen, 73. Dingerein, 134. Carnmenellis, 65. Cookworthy, Wm., 44. Dodman, 133. Carnon, 64. Copper, history, [28]. Lodes, Dolcoath Mine, 73. Carnsew, 75. [28]. Mining, [29]. Ores, Dollar Rock, 108. Carrick roadstead, 48, 68. [28]. Dolmans, [14]. Carrickgloose Head, 114. Cormorants, in. Dolor Hugo, 92. Carrickstarne, 119. Cornish heath, 88. Language, Dolphin, 120. Carters, the, 23. 42. Proverbs, 128, 133. Domestic architecture, [18]. .Carthamartna Rocks, 143. Cornwall, Duchy of [44]. Dominic, St., Church, 63. Carvedras, 48. Coryton Station, 2. Doublebois, 37. 152 INDEX. DOZMARE. Dozmare Pool, 57. Drakewalls Mine, 61. Dranna Point, 100. Dreynes, river, 35, 37. Drift", 105, 1 1 j. Drift-net fishing, [39]. Druids' Altar, 20. Duchy of Cornwall, [44]. Dulae, 32, 130. Dunmeer Bridge, 137. Castle, 137. Wood, 137. Dupath Well, 62. Duporth, 42. E. Eastern Islands, 123. Egloshayle, 17. Elvans, [25]. Endellion, St., 16, 17. Endsleigh, 5, 143. Enoder, St., 61. Enodoc, St, 19. Enys, 66, 69. Dodnan, 108. Erica ciliaris, 65. Vagans, Erth, St., 76. Exeter to Launeeston, 2. Exmouth, Lord, birthplace, 78. Fal river, 45, 69. Falmouth, 66. Harbour, 68. to the Lizard, 87. • to Penzance, 92. Fentonwoon, 6. Feock, St., 69. Filorey, 23. Fisheries, [38]. Fistral Bay, 2;. Five Barrow Down, 37. Fivelanes, 7, 53. Flushing, 68. Fog-horn, or organ, 91. Kogou, 113. Foote the comedian, birth place, 47. Forrabury, 8. Four-hole Cross, 58. Fowey, 138. Consols,4o, 141. Haven, 138. River, 35, 38. Valley, 40. Well, 55. to Newquay, 138. Fraddon, 60. Funnel Rock, 109. Furry-day, 93. Gannel estuary, 23. Ganniley, Great and Little, 123. Ganniornic, Great and Little, 123. Gap, the, 98. Garrah, 55. Gennvys, St., 146. Geological notice, [21}. Geological Society of Corn wall, 78. Germans, St., 28, 127. River, 24. Germoe, 95. Gerrans, 134. Giant Tregeagle, 58, 60, 133. Giant's Castle, 119. Chair, 120. Grave, 112. Graves, 116. Hedge, 130. Quoit, 86. Rock, 126. Staff, 44. "Well, 102. Gibben, 107. Gilbert, Davies, birthplace, 78. Gilstone Rock, 119, 121. Glendargle, 22. Gluvias, St., 65. Glynn, 37. Bridge, 137. Valley, 137. Godolphin, 9?. Hill, 95. Godolphin, Mrs., grave, 94. Godrevy, 75. Gold found in Cornwall, 61. Goldsithney, 96. Golytha rock, 35. Goonhilly Down, 88. Goose Rock, 2;. Gorran, 133. Haven, 132. Gorregan, 121. Grade, 92. Grampound, 45. Road Stat., 44- Granite, [23]. Veins, [25]. "Works and quarries, 65. Great Stone, 20. Greber Head, 140. Grenville, Sir Beville, birth place, 137. Greystone Bridge, 143. Grimsby, Old, 122. — — New, 122. Grove Hill, 68. Growan, 43. Grower Quarry, 9. Gue Graze, 98. Gugh, 121. Gulval, St., 80, 123. Cam, 80. Gump, 116. Gunner Rock, i2r. 7 HUEL. Gunwalloe, 61, 97. Gurnard's Head, 83, 84, 126. Gweal, 122. Gweek, 87. Gwennap, 71. Pit, 71. Gwinear Road Stat., 74. ¦ , St., 74- Gwithian, 74. Gwn mgn Screpha, 85. H. Half Stone, 34- Halgaver, 137. Halligey, 87. Hall House, 140. Walk, 140. Halsetown, 124. Halzaphron Cliffs, 97. Hamoaze, 24, 30, 127. Hangman's Isle, 122. Hanjague Rock, 123. Hannon Valley, 57. Hanter-Gantick, 7, 56. Harewood House, 62. Hawk's Tor, 33, 58. Hayle, 74. River, 74. to Penzance, 75. Hea, 80. Hel, river, 87. Helen's, St., 122. Helford, 101. River, 100. Heligan, 42. Hell's Mouth, 74. Hellwethers, 119, 121. Helmen, 142. Helston, 93. to the Lizard, 97. to Marazion and St. Michael's Mount, 94. Hengar House, 16. Hennacliff, 146. Hensbarrow, 44, 60. Hessenford, 127. Hexworthy House, 143 . High Cliff, 9. Hilary, St, 101. Hill-Castles, [15]. Hingston Down, 63- Historical Notice, [18]. Holed Stones, 85, 112. Holestrow, 98. Holloway Cross, 53. Holmbush Mines, 142. Holywell Ray, 23, Hornblende-slate, [21] Horse, the, 98, Horse Brido-e u? Hot Point, 9! 4J" Househole, Cove and Bay, 91. Jl Huel Alfred, 75. Halaman- INDEX. 153 HUGH. ning, 97. Herland, 75. Vor, 94, 9;. Hugh Town, 118. Hurlers, the, 34. Hurling, game of, [13"]. Hut, bee-hive, 8j. Hut-circles, [15], 33, 34, 55, 56. I. Iktis, ancient, [26], 105. Illogan, 73. Ince Castle, 28. lnceworth, 128. Indian Queens, 60. Juisvouls, Great and Little, 123. Innis Vean, 98. Inny, river, 5, 143. Inscribed Stones, 75, 85. Institution of Cornwall, Royal, 47. Irish Lady, 107. Islands of Scilly, 117. Issey, St., 17. Beacon, 20. Ive, St, 64. Ives, St., 124. Hotel, 124 Consols. 125. Road Stat, 76. J. Jacky"s Rock, 121. Jacobstow, 143. Jamaica Inn, 54. Johnson's Head, Dr., 106. John's, St., 30. Eve, 78. Jubilee Kock, the, 59. Just in Penwith, St., 11 j. In Roseland, St, 69. Creek, 69. Pool, 69. Kea, 64. Kellan Head, 19. Kelly Rounds, 16. Kenegie, 124. Kenidjacb Castle, 114. Kennack Cove, 99. Kennal, stream 65. Kenwyn, 48. Kerowe Down, 59. Kettle and Pans, 119. Kettle's Bottom, 107. Keverne, St., 99. Kew, St., 16. Keyne's Well, St., 31, 130 Kiby's Well, St., 32. Kilkhampton, 147. Kilkobben Cove, 91. Killburyvi6. LION'S DEN. Killiganoon, 48. Kllliganh, 131. Killiow, 48, 64. Kilmarth Tor, 33. Kikance Cove, 89. King Arthur, n, 13, 23. Tomb, 7 . lung's and Queen's Houses, 56- Kingsand, 128. Kistvaens, 122, 126, 134. Kit Hill, 63. Kitteru, 121. Knill, John, his monument, 125. Ktnakce Cove, 89. Ladock, 60. Lamorna Cove, 82. Lamorran, 45, 49. Creek, 45. Lander, Richard and John, the travellers, birthplace, 48. Landewednack, 92. Land's End, 106. District, 74- to the Logan Rock, 108. Landue Mill, 143. Landulph, 26. Laneast, 5, 54. Language, old Cornish, [42]. Lanherne Convent 21. Lanhydrock House, 39, 137. Lanivet 59- Lank, 56. River, 56. Down, 56. Rocks, 56. Lanlivery, 40. Lansallos, 132. Lanteglos, 6, 1 J2. Lanyon, 74. Cromlech, 85. Lariggan, 80. Launcells, 143. House. 14T. Launceston, 2. Castle, 2. Churches, 4. Environs, 6. Historical notice, 4. to Bodmin and Truro, 5?- Lawhitton, 143. Lawrence, St., 136. Lelant, 76, 124. Lerrin, river, 40. Lescaddock Castle, 80. Lesingey Round, 116. Lesnewth, 10. Levan, St., no. Levant Mine, 115. Lezant, 14?. Lich-stones, 26, no. Limestones, [22]. Linkenhorne, 142. Lion Kock, 89. Lion's Den, 91. MEVAGISSEY. Liskeaid^ 31. Excursions, 31-17- to Truro, 37. Little Bounds Mine, 114. Lizakd District, 88. Point, 90. Town, 88,90. Cove, 91. Loe Pool, 93. Logan Rock, no. Logan Stones, [15], 56, 81, no, 119, 125 Longbridge, 10. Longships lighthouse, 106. Longstone, The, 44, 140. Looe, 31, 128. Valley, 37- Lostwithiel, 37. to Truru, 40. Lucombe oak, 65. Ludgvan, 76. Lugger's Cave, 127. Luxulian, 142. Quarries, 142. Lydtord Junct., 2. Lynher Creek, 28, 30. Es tuary, 28. Lyonesse, 106. Mabe quarries, 66, 92. Mabyn, St., 16. Madron, St., 8o. Well, 81. Maen Castle, 107. Maker, 128. Heights, 128. Malpas, 48. Manaccan, 100. Manach Point, no. Manacles, 67, 99. Man and his Men, 53. Marazion, 101. KoadStat., 77, 81. Mare Rock, 122. Marhamchurch, 144. Market-Jew, 101. Martin's, St., 123. Flats, 123. Bay, 123. Head, 12?. Martyn the missionary, birthplace, 48. Mary's, St., Scilly, 118. Mawes, St., 69. Castle, 69. Mawgan, St., 21, 87. In Meneage, 87. Perth, 22. Vale, 22. Meachard, 8. Medrose, 114. Meledgan, 121. Mellion, St., 27. Menabilly, 14°- Menacuddle Well, 42. Menavawr, 122. Men An-tol,85. ScryffL'n, 85. Menewethan, 123. Menheniot, jo Mermaid's Hole, 134. Merry Maidens, 112, 114, Mevagissey, 132. 154 MICA-SLATB. Mica-slate, 92, Michael Carhayes, St., 133- Penkivel, St., 49. Michael's Mount, St., 81, 102. Chair, 103. Michaelstow, 16. Beacon, 16. Mill Bay, 109. Millendreath, 130. Mines, [25]. Bounding, [27]. Descent of, [37]. Dressing theore, [15]. History, [26]. How worked, [29]. Levels, [3-]. Lodes, [33]- Miners. [33]- Sale of the ore, [j6]. Shaft, [29]. Smelting the ore, [38]. Steam engines, [30]. Siannary laws, [28]. Stream-works, [37]. Sub marine mines, [17]. Tem perature, [29]. Minster, 9, Minver, St., 19. Miracle plays, 49, 114. Mitchell, 61. Monk's Cowl, 119. Moorswater, 31. Morvah, 84. Morval House, 127, 130. Morwell Rocks, 62. Morwenstow, 148. Mount's Bay, 79. Climate, 79. Mine, 97. Mousehole, 81. Mozrang Pool, 109. Mulfra, 83. Quoit, 83. Mullion, 88. Cove, 89, Island, 98. Mylor, 69. Creek, 69. Pool, 69. N. Nancealverne, 80. Nankissal, IC9. Nansloe House, 94. Nanswhyden, 20. Neot, St., Church, 35. Painted glass, 35. Mi racles, 35. Well, 36. New Bridge, 61, 116. New Grimsby, 122. Newlyn, near Penzance, 81, Newquay, 22, 142. Newton House, 27. Newtown, 112. Nighton's Keive, St., 10. Nine Maidens, 20, 85, 105. No Man's Land, 19. Nor tor, 123. Noy, attorney-general, birth place, 1 12. Residence, 20. Nundeeps Rock, 121. Nut Rock, 122, Ocrinum (ancient), 90. Old Blockhouse, 122. Old Bosullow, 85. Old Crinnis mine, 41. Old Grimsby, 122. Old Lizard Head, 99. Old Man cutting Turf, 121. Old To wn, 1 19. Bay, 1 1. Old Swan Pool, 68. Oliver Cromwell's Castle.i 21, 122. Opie, birthplace, 52. Oratories, ("15], 19, 49, 52. Other Half Stone, 34. Padstow, 17. Harbour, 18. Papoie Head, 15. Par Junct. Stat.,^i. Consols, 41, 141. Breakwater, 41. Smelting Works, 41. Pardenick, 108. Parnvose, 91. Paul, St., 82. Pedn mean an M6r, no. Pedn mSn dhu, 107. Pedn Vounder, no. Pele Rock, 106. Pellew's Redoubt, 120. Pelyn House, 40. Pelynt, 130. Penair, 46, 48. Penare Head, [22], 133. Penbrose, 123. Pencalenick, 46, 48. Pencarrow, 17, 137. Head [22]. Pendarves, 73. Quoit, 73. Pendeen, 114. Cove, 115. Vau, 114. Pendennis Castle, 66, PendrS, 123. Pendrea, 80. Pengelly, 14. Pengerrick, 68. Pengersick Castle, 95. Pengreep, 71. Penhale Point, 23, Penhargate Castle, 137. Peninnis Head, 119. Penkinna Head, 9, 146. Pennance, 126. Penny- come-quick, 67. Penolver, 91. Penpons Bottom, 70, 74. Penquite, 139. Penrice, 42. Penrose, 94. POLPEER. Penryn Stat., 65, 92. Pentargan Cove, 10, Pentillie Castle, 27. Pentire Point, 19, 23. Pentreath, Dolly, 82. Pentewan stone, [25]. Pentowan, 42. Penwether Viaduct, 64, Penzance, 77. History, 77. Notabilities, 78. Princi pal buildings, &c, 78. Museums, 78. Curious custom, 78. Environs, 80-82. Excursions from, 82-87. Penzance to St. Michael's Mount, 101. - — to the Gurnard's Head, 82. to St Ives, 123. to St. Just, &c, 112. to Lamorna Cove, 81. to the Land's End, 105. to the Lizard, 101. to St. Mary's (Sally Isles), 116. Perran Arworthal, 65. Perran Porth, 50. Round, 49. Whari, 69. Perran -uthnoe, 96. Perranwell Stat., 65. Perran -zabuloe, 49. Old church of, 49. Peter Pindar, school, 31. Peter's Eve, St, 78. Peters, Hugh, birthplace, 140, Portrait, 140. Petherick, Little, 18. Peverell's Cross, 59. Phillack, 7?. Pigeon's Hugo, 98. Pilchard fishery, [19], 79, King [40]. Pill Cr< ¦ek, 69. Pillars, stone, 121. Pipers, the, 112. Hole, 119, 121. Piran, St., 50. Oratory, 52. Well, 65. Piskie's Well, 130. Pitt's Parlour, 119. Place House, 18, 139. Planguary, 72. Plans an cuare, 72, 114. Pludn. 108. Plymouth to Truro, 24. to Falmouth, 127. Polbathick, 127. Poljew, 98. Polkerris, 141, Pol Ledan, no. Polnicar, 47. Polostoc, 109. Polpeer, 98. INDEX. 155 POLPERRO. Polperro, 129, 131. Pol pry, 108. Polruan, 138, 140. Poltair, 80. House, 80. Poltesco, Valley of, 99. Polwhele, birthplace, 47. Residence, 102. House, 46, 48. Polytechnic Society of Corn wall, 67. Ponghill, 147. Ponsandane, 123. Ponsondine, 80. Poole, 31, 72. Por Loe, IC9. Pornanvon Cove, 114. Por Sell!, no. Port tliot, 29. Gavorne, 15. Isaac, 19. Lssyk, 16. Wil liam, 14. Porth alia, iod. Porthcurnow, no. Porthgwarra, 109. Porth Hellick, 119. Porth Hern, 11. Portbledan Cove, 114. Porthleven, 94. Porthmeer Cuve, 84. Porthoustock, 100. Porth queen, 19. Porths, [nj. Portmellin, 132. Portreath, 62. Pound Sea wens, 59. Pradanack Cross, 98. Head, 98. Prideaux, 141. Warren, 141. Humphrey, birthplace, 18. School, 31. Priglis Bay,, 121. Probus, 45. Proverbs of Cornwall, 128, 13?. Prussia Cove, 95. Pulpit Rock, 119. Punchbowl Rock, 121. Q. Quakers' Burial-ground, 105. Quethiock, 64. Quoits, [14]. Ragged Island, 12;. Raised beaches, 94, 114. Rame Head, 128. Raven's Hugo, 92. Red Moor, 40. Redmoor mines, 142. Redruth, 70. Resingy Round, 80. SITHrLY. Resparvell Down, 9. RestormelCastle,38. House, 39. Mine, 39. Restronguet Creek, 65, 69. Resugga Castle, 45. Rialton, 22. Priory, 22. Rill, the, 90, 98. Road into Cornwall, ancient, 14. Roche, 60. Rocks, 23, 60. Rock basins, 55, 119, 121. Rosecadgehill, 80. Rose Hill, 80. Roscarrnck House, 17. Roseland, 1 34. Rosemullion Head, 67. Rosevean, 121. Rosevear, 121. Rosewarne, 74. Roughtor, 6, 55. Round Bury, 143- Round Island, 122. Rounds, 113, 114. 116- Ruan Lanihorne, 45. Minor, 92. Euan's Well, St., 92. Rundlestone, 109. Sacred Circles, [15]- Salta^h, 25. Viaduct, 24. Samson, 122. Sancreed, 113. Sandhills, [25]. Sandplace, 130. Schorl-rock, [24]. Scillt Islands, 117. Islet, 122. Scorrier Gate Stat, 70. House, 70. Scraesdon Fort, 23, 127. Seals, 9. Seaton River, 127. Seine-fishing, [41]. Sennen church-town, 105. Cove, 107. Serpentine, [21], 88,92, Seven Stones, 123. Shark's Fin, 106. Sharpitor, 33. Sharp Point Tor, 33. Sharrow Grot, 127. Sheviock, 30. Shillingham, 28. Shipman Head, 122. Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, death of, 119. Sidney Cove, 95. Sidney Godolphin Mine, 95. Silver Well, 73. Sisters Rocks, 114. Siihuly, 93. TOOTH. Skeleton tours, [45]. Skclywadden, 124. Slate-quarries, 14, 15. Slaughter Bridge, 7. Sloven's Bridge, 7. Smith, Great and Little, 121. ¦ Soap Rock, 98. South Carn, 108. South Herod's Foot Mine, J 2. Sportsman's Arms, 143. Stamford Hill, 144. Stanbury Creek, 148. Stannary Court, 38. Laws, [28]. Parliaments, [28]. Prisons, 38. Star Castle, 118. Steatite, 98. Stephen's, St., in Brannel, 43. Down, 143. Stepper Point, 18. Stithians, 71. Stoke Climsland, 143. Stone avenues, [15], 34. Hedges, [12]. Stone Dance, 112. Stones, the, 75. Stonyford, 15. Stow, 147. Stratton, 144. Fight, 144, Stream- works, 61. Subterranean galleries, 87. Summercourt, 61. Sun Rock, 120. Sydenham, 2. Syth's, St., Beacon, 16. Talland, 129, 131. Tamar, river, 2, 27, 61, 62. Source, 149. Tane, St., 6. Taphouse, West, 46. Tar Balk, 98. Tavistock to Liskeard, 61. Tean, 123. Teath, St., 16. Tehidy, 72. Temple, 58. Tor, 59. Thankes, 24. Theodore Palasologus, tomb, 26. Tin, gTain, [37]. History, [26]. Islands, [26]. Lodes, [33]. Mining, [25]. Ores, [35]- Tiktagel, n. Castle, ii. Church, 14. Head, n. Titanium, where first disco vered, 100. Tober, 55. Tol Pedn Penwith, 109. Tooth Rock, 119. 15(5 TORPOINT. Torpoint, 24, 127. Torridge, river, source, 149. Toup, Rev. Jonathan, birth place, 1 25. His living, 130. Towan Head, 22. Towans, [25]. Towednaek, 124. Travelers' view of Corn wall [9]. Trawl-fishing, [38]. Trebarwith Strand, 14. Trebartba Hall, ?. Trebowling.Hill, 71. Trecarrel, 5, 14?. Trecroben Hill, 76. Ti'edrea, 76. Treen, 108, no. Treenetback Cross, 116. Treewoofe, 112. Treffry, Mr. J. T., birthplace, 140. Residence, 140. Treffry Lead Smelting Works, 41. Treffry Viaduct, 141. Trefusis, 68. Tregantle, Lower, 127. Higher, 127. Tregeagle, Giant, 58, fio, 133. Tregeagle's Hole, 133. Quoits, 45. r?3- Tregedna, 68. Tregenna, 124. Tregolls, 48. Tregonebris Hill, 105. Tregony, 45. Tregonning Hill, 95. Tregoss Moors, 60. Tregothnan, 46, 48. Tregrehan, 41. Trehane, 46. Trelawne, 129. Mill, inlet of, 129. Trelawny, Bishop, 130. Treleaver Hill, 66. Trelissic, 49, 69. Trelowarren, 87. Trematon Castle, 27. Tremayne, 100. Tremenkeverne, 96. Trenant Park, 129. Treneere, 80. Trenemer Rock, 119. Trengwainton, 79. Carn, 86 , Trereife, 3o, 105, 116. Trerice, 61. Tkeetn, no. Castle, no. Tresavean Mine, 71. Tresco, 120. Abbey, 120. VIVERDON. Tresilian Bridge, 46. Creek, 46. Trethevey, 10. Trethill, jo. Trevalfran Hill, 126. T re vara on Rounds, 74. TrevaunanceTorth, 52. Trevailer, 85. Trevaylor, 80. Treveddoe tin stream-work, 36, 50. Trevena, n. Treverbyn Vean, 37. Trevethow, 76. ; ¦ "i$j Trevethy Stone, 32. Trevince, 71. Trevorder, 58. Trevose Head, 19. Trewan, 20. Trewartha Tor, 33. Trewarthenick, 45. Trewavas Head, 94. Trewidden, 105. Trewinnard, 76. Trewint, 54. Trewithen, 45. Trink Hill, 124. Trippet Stones, 59. Troove, n2. Trucn, 116. Truiio, 46. Cathedral, 47, River, 46, 48, 69. to Falmouth, 64. 10 IVnzance, 70. to Perran Porth and Pei ranzabuloe, 49. Try Valley, 80. Tudy, St., 16. Two Barrows Hill, 55. Two Waters Foot, 3$. - ; United Mines, 70. Varfell, 76. Vectis, ancient, [26], 105. Veep, St., 139. Vellan Dreath, 107. Point, 98. Veryan Bay, 133. Beacon, 133. Victoria Stat., 142. Viverdon Down, 62. w. Warie1)ridr,e, 16. Wallis, Captain, birthplace, 6. Residence, 100. Warbstow Barrow, 6. Warleggan, 36, 58. Watch Hill, 122. Watergate Bay, 22. Week St. Mary, 143. Wellington's Sarcophagus, 142. Wendron, St., 93. Wenford Bridge, 138. Wenn, i?8. Werra Mine, 81. Werrington Park, 5, 143. Wesley, the scene of his preaching, 71. Where he first preached in Cornwall, 80. Wesley's Rock, 80. Wheal Bassett Mine, 71. Whispering Stone, 142 Whitaker the antiquary, his rectory, 45. Grave, 45. Whiteford House, 143. Whitesand Bay, 106, 127, 128, 129. Widemouth Bay, 146. WillaparkJ Head, 8. Point, 9, 10. Winnow, St., 40, 139. Withiel, 137. Wolcott, Dr., school, 31/' Wolf Rock, 107. Wooley Barrows, 149. Worthyvale, 7. Wrestling Matches, [13]. Written; Stone, 85. Down of the/35. , Y. Yacht Club, the Cornwall 68. Yellow Carn, 98. York House, 80. Z. Zawn Kellis, 109. Zawn Pyg, 109. Zawn Reeth. 109. Zennor, 84, 126. Quoit, 126. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SOKS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CRObS. HANDBOOK ADVEKTIS] EE, 1881-82. CONTENTS. FOREIGN AGENTS :— j. 4 it mcokac RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPAN pp 2—3 PAGE ES: CALEDONIAN RAILWAY 4 GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY 7 GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS— ROYAL ROUTE 8 GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY . . ... 5 LONDON TO ANTWERP. "BARON OSY" . 5 LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY 7 MIDLAND RAILWAY HOTELS AND I 6 ]NTS. T1ETISEM1 [IS0ELLANE0US AD^ FAGK j PAGfi% FAEUZ AIGLE .... SI DIXARD ... 20 MONTREUX . 52 AXX-LES-BAIN8 . . 8, 9 DOVE 11 ... 27 MUNICH .' f3 AIX LA CHAPELLE . . 9 DRESDEN ... 27 NAPLES . 63 ALEXANDRIA . . 28 j DUNDEE .... 27 NICE . 53,54 AMIENS . . . .9 ENGELBERG . . 29 NUREMBERG . 55 ANTWERP . . . 9, 10 EXETER . . 2T OSTEND . 66 AVIGNON . . 10 FRANKFORT ... 29 OXFORD . 55 AVRANCHES ... 10 FREIBURG IN BADEN . 29 PARIS . 65-57 BADEN-BADEN . . 10, 11 GENEVA . . 3\ 31 PENZANCE . . 58 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE . 11 GIESSBACH 33 PEGU . 67 BAGNERES DE LUCHON . 11 GLASGOW . . 31 BALE . . .11 GRENOELE . . 81, 32 PLYMOUTH 58, 59 BARCELONA . 12 HAMBURG . 32 PRAGUE . 59 BELFAST .... 12 HANOVER . . 32 RAGAZ 57 BELLAGIO ... 12 HAVRE . 32 RHEINFALL NEUHAUSEN . 60 BERLIN ... 12, 13 HEIDELBERG . 32, 3! RIGI . 69, 60 BIDEFORD . . 14 [ HOMBDRG . 33 BOLOGNA . . 14 ' HYERES . . 33,31 ROTTERDAM . 61 BONN ... . 1* ILFRACOMBE . 34 ROUEN 61-63 BORDEAUX . 15 INNSBRUCK . 35 ROYAT-LES-BAINS . 62 BOULOGNE-SCR-MER . ' If. I ISTERLAKEN . 31-36 1 SALLSBURY Ct BBIENZ 15 j KARLSRUHE ... 37 SANDOWN . 63 BRUGES . 15 ! KILLARNEY ... 36 SAN REMO . (13, 04 BRUSSELS . 16-18 KISSINGER .... 37 SAN SEB ISTIAN . 01 BUDAPEST . . 18 LAUSANNE ... 37, S8 SALZBURG . Oi BUXTON . . 18 LEAMINGTON '. . 38 SCHWALBACH 64 CAEN . . 18, 19 CAIRO . . . 20,28 LIVERPOOL . 38 STOCKHOLM . 60 CANNES . . 19, 21, 23 LONDON . . . 38-44, 72 STRASBURG . 65 CARLSBAD . . . .18 LUCERNE . . . 45-48 TIIUN . . 67 CHALON3-SUK-MARNE . 23 LYNTON .... 48 TOULOUSE . 67 OHAMON1X . . S2 LYONS .... 48 TOURS . . 67 CHAUHOST . 23 MACON . . 48 TURIN. 08 COBLENTZ .... 23 MADRID . . . 48 VALENCIA . 68 COLOGNE ... 23, 24 MALVERN . 49 VARESE . 68 CONSTANTINOPLE . 25 MANSFIELD 48 VENTNOR . 67,70 COPENHAGEN . . 23 ^^[ARIENBAD . . .49 VERONA . 08 CORFU .... 25 "MARSEILLES . . . 50 VEVEY . 69 COWES . . 25 MATLOCK . . 49 VICHY . 70 CREUZNACH . . . 25 j MAYENCE . . . . 49 VIENNA 69,70 WIESBADEN 70,71 WTLDBAD . . 71 ZARAGOZA . . 71 MUKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STEEET, CANNON STEEET, E.O., AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROTAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLEKY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OP SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, Agents for Bouvier's Nenchatel Champagne, AND FOE THE BBOEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WOBKS OF ABT, BAGGAGE, &0M FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honoured with a con tinuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. * DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSED, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner's absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. MCC. with their Consignments are requested to be particular In having the Bills of Lading sent to them dibect by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and, Liverpool also attended to ; but all Letters of Advice and^Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38, Queen Stbeet, as above. AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GEii.um | The Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Dep8t. {Messrs. French & Co. Sig. Luigi Ramaoci. Messrs. EMMle. Fenzi 8c Co. Sig. Tito Gagxjardi, Dealer in Antiquities. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Mr. E. Goodban, Printseller. Mr. T. Bianchtni, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Bazzanti & Fig., Sculptors, Lungo l'Arno. FRANKFORT o. M. Messrs. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. G. Krebs. GENEVA MM. Levrier & Pelissieb. „„„„, C Messrs. G. & E. B arch i Brothers. U*"NUA \ Mr. C. A. Wilson. Mr. H. A. Mossa, Grande Albergo d'ltalia. GIBRALTAR Messrs. John Peacock & Co. HAMBURG Meosre. J. P. Jensen & Co. Messrs Schormeh & Teiohmann. HEIDELBERG Mr. Ph. Zimmermann. HELSINGFORS .... Messrs. Luther & Rudolph. INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J.Grossmann. JERUSALEM........ Messrs. K F. Spittler & Co. Mr. M. Bergheih, Jun. KISSINGEN Mr. David Kugelmann. Mr. H. F. Kugelmann.. LAUSANNE Mr. Dubois Renou & Fils. LEGHORN Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Maqu at, Hooker, & Co. LUCERNE Messrs. F. Knobs & Fils. MADRAS Messrs. Binny & Co. MALAGA Mr. George Hodgson. i Messrs. Josh. Darmanln & Sons, 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic MALTA i Workers. Mr. Fortunato, Testa, 92, Strada St« Lucia. MeBBrs. ( Turnbull Jun. & SosrEuviiXE. MARIENBAD Mr. J. T. Adleb, Glass Manufacturer. MARSEILLES Messrs. E. Caillol and H. SAintpierbe. .. MENTONE Mr. Palmabo. Mr. Jean Drengo Fils. MESSINA Messrs. Cailler, Walker, & Co. {Mr. G. B. Buffet, Piazza di S. Sepolcro,' No. 1. Messrs. Fratelli Brambilla. Messrs; Ulrich & Co. Messrs. G. Bono & Co. MUNICH Messrs. Wimmeb & Co., Printsellers, Brienner Strasse. . w.p,™ (Messrs. W. J. Turner 4; Co. Mr. G. Scala, Wine Merchant. a-BJrljXa \ Messrs. G. Questa & Co. Messrs. Cerulli & Co. „ ^SOTsSE^Tf.^. .,,.{ Messrs. BouvierFreres, Wine Merchants. [ NEW YORK .'.'.'. '.'.'. Messrs. Baldwin Bros. & Co. NICE Madame V" Adolphe Lacroix & Co. „'. NUREMBERG. ..... Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antlcrd}iies. OSTEND Messrs. R. St. Amour & Son. PALERMO Messrs. Ingham, Whttakeb, & Co.' -¦ PARIS Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix des Pettts Champs, No. 24. PAU . . . . t Mr. Musgrave Clay. „.„ . (Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors In Alabaster and Marble rjaa 1 Mr. G. Andreoni, Sculptor "in Alabaster. PRAGUE Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. I Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. A. Macbean & Co. Met srf. ROME.. ,....< Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs.. Spada & Flamlvi. Mr. I J. P. Shea. Mr. A. Tombini. ROTTERDAM Messrs. Preston & Co. - SAN REMO Messrs. Fratelli Asquasciati. - ST. PETERSBURG . Messre. Thomson, Bonab, & Co. Mr. C. Kregkb. STOCKHOLM Messrs. Olsson & Wright. t THOUNE *¦ Mr. Jean Kehbxi-Stehchi. TRIESTE Messrs. Feli. ChiesaV TURIN Messrs. Rochas, Pere & Fils. tt ,tt™, f Mr- L- Botardi, Fbnte alie Ballotte. VENICE , t Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal &;Cq. . Mr. Carlo. Ponti. VEVEY ..... Mr. Jules Getaz Fils. f Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, 16 Karnthner Strasse. VIENNA ^.Messrs. J. &L. Lobheyeb, Glass- Manufacturers,' 13,' Karnthnor ( Strasse. Mr. Peteb Comploier. ZURICH Mr. Orell Hess. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. TOURS IN SCOTLAND. The Caledonian Railway Company have arranged a system of Toubs— about 70 in number— by Rail, Steamer, and Coach, comprehending almost every place of interest either for scenery or historical associations throughout Scotland, including— EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, ABERDEEN, DUNDEE, INVERNESS, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, DUMFRIES, PEEBLES, STIRLING, PERTH, CRIEFE, DUNKELD, OBAN, INVERARAY, The Trosachs, Loch Katrine, Loch-Lomond, LGoil, Loch-Long, &c, &c A full service 6f Trains is also run from and to Glasgow, to and from Edinburgh, Stirling, Perth, Oban, Dundee, Aberdeen, and the North; aud from and to Edinburgh, to and from these places. For particulars of Trains, Fares, &e., see the Caledonian Railway Company's Time Tables. General Manager's Office, JAMES SMITHELLS, Glasoow, 1881. General Manager. 1S81. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY. THE TOURIST'S ROUTE TO THE CONTINENT IS via HARWICH. The Continental Express Train leaves Liverpool Street Station, London, for Rotterdam every evening (Sundays excepted), and for Antwerp on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, in direct connection with the Fast and elegantly fitted up Passenger Steamers of the Company. The Steamers are large powerful vessels, ranging from 800 to 1200 tons burden, with ample sleeping accommodation ; and consequently Passengers suffer less from mat de mer than by any of the shorter Sea Routes. The Provisions on Board are supplied from the Company's own Hotel at Harwich, and are unequalled in quality. Luggage can be registered through to all principal Towns on the Continent from Liverpool Street Station. Through Tickets are issued at — The Great Eastern Company's West End Office, 28, Regent Circus, Piccadilly, London, W. Cook and Son's Tourist Office, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C. Gaze and Son's Tourist Office, 142, Strand, London, E.C. O. Catgill's Tourist Office, 371, Strand, London, E.C. And the Continental Booking Office, Liverpool St. Station, London, E.C. For further particulars and Time Books apply to the Continental Traffic Manager, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C. LONDON to ANTWERP. BY THE FAST AND POWERFUL PADDLE STEAMER, 'BAIfcOlV OSY,' 1150 Tons burthen, built in 1875. J. VEKBIST, Commander. This STEAMER, which is elegantly fitted up with spacious Saloons and Private Cabins, Ifiaves London, from IRONGATE and ST. KATHARINE'S WHARF, Tower, every Sunday at noon, returning from Antwerp every Wednesday at noon, from 1st October to lfat April, and 1 o'clock (afternoon) from 1st April to 1st October. Passengers walk on board. Excellent Table d'Hote at 2 o'clock. Travellers going by this Steamer may proceed by the Railroad vid Antwerp and Cologne to Hamburg, Berlin, Leipzic, Dresden, &c FARES (including Steward's Fee) — Chief Cabin, 2ls.; ditto Return, available one Month, 37*. ; Fore Cabin, 16*. ; ditto Return, 24s. 6d. Children under 10 years Half-price. Four-wheel Carriages, £4 is. ; two-wheel Carriages, £3. Horses, £3 3*. Apply to the Agents i London.— Messrs. Arnati & Harrison, 11 & 12, Great Tower Street, E.C; and Old White Horse Cellar, 155, Piccadilly, W. Antwerp. — Messrs. Huysmans & Bdlcke, 10, Quai Magermna. Brussels. — M. Lelotte-Town, 88, Montagne de la Cour. Arrangements have now been made whereby the RETURN TICKETS issued by'this Steamer are, without extra payment, available by the Steamers belonging to the General Steam. Navigation Company, The advantage of five regular Departures per Week each way between London and Antwerp is thus secured to the Public. The RETURN TICKETS — not EXCURSION — issued by the General Steam Navigation Company are available by the 'Baron Osy/ 6 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, M I DLAND RAILWAY. The PICTURESQUE and FAVOURITE ROUTE Between London and Manchester and Liverpool, and all parts of Lancashire via Matlock and the Peak of Derbyshire. The NEW TOURIST and POPULAR ROUTE Between England and Scotland, via Settle and Carlisle, is Now Open, and a Service of Express and Fast Trains is run between London and Edin burgh and Glasgow, with connections and Through Booking arrangements from principal Sta-fcions in the West of England, Midland Counties, York shire and Lancashire, and principal Towns and Plaoes of Tourist resort in Scotland. Pullman Drawing-Room Cars by Day, and Sleeping Cars by Night, Bun between London (St. Pancras Station) and Edinburgh and Glasgow ; and from July to October, between London and Perth ; also' between London and Liverpool and London and Manchester by the Express Trains of this Company. These Cars are well ventilated, fitted with Lavatory, &c, and accompanied by a Special Attendant, and are unequalled for comfort and convenience in travelling. At London the Midland Company's Trains start from and arrive at the St. Pancras Station, where the Company have erected one of the largest Hotels in the world, containing upwards of 400 Bed-Kooms, with spacious Coffee-Eoom and numerous Drawing Booms, whioh will be found replete with every accommodation. Tourist Tickets, available for Two Calendar Months, or longer, Are Issued during the Summer, from principal Stations on the Midland Bailway, to — Edinburgh, Matlock, Portsmouth, Malvern, Glasgow, Buxton, Isle of Wight, Leamington, Scarboro', Yarmouth, Bournemouth, Swansea, Harrogate, Lowestoft, Torquay, Tenby, Windermere, Dover, Plymouth, Aberystwith, Keswick, Bamsgate, Exeter, Llandudno, Morecombe, Hastings, Bath, Bhyl, Blackpool, . Brighton, Ilfracombe, Isle of Man, a^ most of the principal places of Tourist resort in the "United Kingdom. Tickets at Reduced Fares Are issued duting the Season after May 1st to Pleasure Parties of not Ins than Six First, or. Ten Third-Class Passengers, desirous of taking PI ¦isure Excursions to pla ces on or adjacent to the Midland Bailway. Fo^ particulars of Trains, Tourist and Pleasure Party arrangements, and oth,r information respecting the Midland Bailway Company, see the Official Time Tables, to be obtained at all Stations, or apply to JOHN NOBLE, General Manager. Derby, April, 1881. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 7 GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. LONDON AND BOULOGNE.— The Dolphin, Shine, Cologne, Moselle, or Ooneordta.— Direct from and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf. Prom London — Almost Daily. From Boulogne — Almost Daily. FAKES— London to Boulogne, 12*., or 8*. 6d. ; Return (available for One Month), 18t. 6d. or IS*. LONDON TO PARIS direct from London, via Boulogne.— FAKES— Single (available for Three Days), Saloon, 1st Class Rail, II. 7«. 6d. ; Saloon, 2nd Class KaU, H. Ss. ; Fore Cabin. 2nd Class Bail, 19«. Gd. ; 3rd Class Rail, 16s. 6d. Return (available for Fourteen Days), 21. 12s. 65. ; 21. ; II. 16*. : 11. 6s. LONDON AND HAVRE— Swift or Swallow— From Irongate and St. Katharine's Steam Wharf. From London— Every Thursday. From Havre— Every Sunday. FARES— (Steward's Fee included), Uhief Cabin, 13*. ; Fore Cabin, 9s. ; Return Tickets (available for One Month), 20s. Gd. and 14a. LONDON AND OSTEND.— The Swift and Swallow,— From and to Irongate and St Katharine's wharf. From London — Wednesday and Sunday. From Ostend — Tuesday and Friday. FARES; (Steward's Fee included), Chief Cabin, 18a. ; Fore Cabin, 12s. 6d. Return Tickets (available for One Month), 27*. 6CLASS HOTEL.— Proprietor, C. Vanden Beeghi, The largest J- and oldest Hotel of the Town. Comfort. Moderate Charges. Special Omnibus. 16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE FRANCE. KUE ROYALE AND MONTAGNE DTT PARC. Proprietor. JOHN BARBER. ''FHE beautiful situation of this Hotel (adjoining the Piirk', the -*- Moderate Charges, excellent Cuisine, and greatly improved arrangements for the comfort of Visitors, renders it especially deserving the patrouage of Travellers. Reading and Smoking Rooms.! English, French, and German Papers taken. English and other principal Languages spoken. Rooms from 3 francs upwards. Table d'Hote (at half-past rive o clock in Winter, six in Summer), 6 francs. Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Months. BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE L'EMPEREUR. 63, RUE NEUVE. Patronised by Prince Teek. '"PHIS old-established First-Class Family Hotel is very conveniently -*- situated near the Station du JS'ord. Post and Telegraph Offices and Theatre de la Monnaie. The new Proprietor, who speaks English, has repleted it with every modern comfort. 60 Bed Rooms, private Dining and Sitling Rooms. Excellent Table d'Hole. Choice Wines. Terms Moderate. Arrangements made for a protracted stay. English Newspapers. Attendants speak English. Baths in the Hotel. N.B. — A speciality Is the beautiful Garden adjoining the Hotel. Proprietor, HENRY DOEGBLOH, BRUSSELS. HOTEL MENGELLE (HUE ROYALE). B. MENGELLE, Proprietor. THIS large and beautiful First-Class Hotel is situated in the finest and most healthy part of the Town, near to the Promenades the most frequented, and is supplied with every modern accommodation and comfort. Table d'Hote at 6 and 7.15, five francs. Restaurant a la carte, and at fixed prices, at any hour. Excellent " Cuisine " and Choice "Wines. Baths, Smoking Room, Reading Room, and. Carriages. Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS, RUE NEUVE, Has a Wide Entrance from the New Boulevards, which places it in one of the best and most advantageous positions in the city. A First-class Honse for Families, to be recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Prices. Table d'Hote, Kestaurant, Smoking-room, Eeading-room. Arrangements made for the Winter Season, or for a prolonged residence. SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE LA FOSTE, KUE FOSSE-AUX-LOTJPS, NEAR TEE PLACE BE LA MONNAIE.' This Hotel, specially frequented by English and Americans, is situated in the centre of the Town, and near the principal Theatres. BEST TABLE D'HOTE. MODERATE CHARGES. English Spoken. Omnibus at the Station. BRUSSELS, QEAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 77 and 79 RUE NEUVE. Admirably ^-* situated near the Boulevards, Theatres, and two minutes* walk from the Nortn Railway Stations. This Establishment, which has been considerably enlarged, posBesaes now a most splendid Dining-room, and offers lo Families and Single Travellers bpacious, comfortable, airy Apartments. Tariffs in every Ho.m — Fixed Prices : — Haiti breakfast lfr. 26c, Two chops or steaks, or ham and eggs, Dr. 50c. Table d'Hote at five o'clock, 3fr. 50 c. Private Dinners from 5fr. Bed-rooms, including light, 4fr. 25c. ; 3fr. 75c. ; 6fr. — for the first night : and for the following night, 3fr. 50c. ; 3fr. ; 5fr. ; and 4fr. Sitting-rooms from 3fr. to 12fr. Attendance lfr. per night. London " Times " and " illustrated London News '' taken in. Travellers having only a few hours to spend iu Brussels between the departure of the train?, can have refreshments or dinner at any hour. The "Waterloo Coach leaves the Hotel at 9.30 o'clock every morning. Private Carriages for "Waterloo 28ir., every expense included. Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m., 5fr. HENRY KERVANB, Proprietor. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL GERNAY. Moderate Charges. Ancien PropriCtaire de I'Sotel de Portugal a Spa. This Hotel is close to the Eailway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp, and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Kord. BRUSSELS. ENGLISH BOARDING-HOUSE, 114, Rue de Stassart, Avenue Louise. Founded 1855. In the most fashionable part of the city. Mr. I>. Meclemeesteb receives English Families at very moderate terms, and for a protracteil stay, according to arrangements to be made by Week, Month, or, Year. Beferenoes to English Families. Letters attended to. BRUSSELS. CULLTFOTID'S ENGLISH HOTEL. 20, Opposite the Sablon Church, near the Place Royale. Is highly recommended for its Cleanliness. Moderate Charges, and Home Comforts. Daily Papers. BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE SUEDE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, in a thoroughly central position near the New Boulevards. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE. CHOICE WINES. VAN CUTSBM, Proprietor. 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, PLACE ROYALE. The Best Situation in Brussels, near the Park, Eoyal Palace, Boulevards, Museum, and Picture Galleries. [Table d'Hdte. ENGLISH SPOKEN. HOTEL MTLETJEOPE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. JOS. BAINEB, Proprietor. BUXTON. THE HYDROPATHIC ft BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. MALVERN HOUSE. A COMFORTABLE SUMMER AND WINTER RESI- -"• DENCE for Patients and Visitors, overlooking the Publio Gardens. Resident Chaplain. ( For particular* apply to Lady Superintendent. N.B. — Entirely new Bath Rooms, with all the modern improvements, have now been added. " BUXTON. CRESCENT HOTEL, DERBYSHIRE. THIS First-Class Hotel is close to the Railway Stations. Conneoted by a Covered Colbnnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and New- Pavilion and Gardens. Public Dinine, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Booms. Suites of Apartments for Private Families. Table d'Hdte at Six p.m. TermB strictly moderate, JOHN SMILTER, Proprietor, CAEN. HOTEL D'ESPAGNE, 71 & 73, RUE ST. JEAN. L. CAMUS, Pbopbietob. FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. Recommended to Families. Moderate Prices. CARLSBAD. Hotel de Hanovre and Dependance, "Villa Helenenhof." TjVIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the centre of the Town, near all -*- the Springs. Cuisine, and strictly Moderate Charges. English spoken. Omnibus at the Station. j c E ZORKENDORFER, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 CAEN. HOTEL M& D'ANGLETERRE, Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the best Society. 100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Booms and Sitting Booms. BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE. MHHER AT TA1SILE B'H©TE5 4 FMItti SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES. ENGLISH AND SPANISH SPOKEN. L. MANCEL, Proprietor. CANNES. GRAND HOTEL CALIFORNIE. FIRST-CLASS Hotel, magnificently situated in extensive Pleasure Grounds, with a commanding View over the Bays, combines every comfort with elegance. Open from the 1st of October to the 1st of June. CHABASSIERE, Proprietor, And also Proprietor of the " SPLENDID HOTEL " and of the " CONTINENTAL HOTEL" at the Baths of Royat (Puy de Dome), France. CANNES. GRAND HOTEL DE PROVENCE. Boulevard du Cannet. Proprietress, English. SITUATED on rising ground, away from the Sea. Well sheltered, standing in its own grounds, with beautiful views of the Town, the Isles de Lerins, and the Esterel. Broad Terrace, and sheltered walks in the Gardens. Lawn Tennis and Croquet Ground. The Hotel combines the comfort and quiet of an English home, with all the accessories of a First-Class Hotel. Good Cuisine. Drawing, Billiard, and SmokXng Rooms. The situation is highly recommended by medical men. An Omnibus meets the Trains MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. RIEBMANN'S HOTEL DU NIL, LEANDRE SCHARFNAGEL, INTEBESSE. SITUATED ON THE MOOSKY (FRANK QUARTER). In the immediate Vicinity of all the Curiosities of the Town. CLEAN; GOOD COOKERY; FREE FROM DUST. APAETMENTS ROUND A SPACIOUS GAEDEN, English and Foreign Newspapers taken in. Omnibus and Dragoman at each Train. PENSION, FEOM 15 TO 18 FKANCS. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 CANNES. HOTEL BEAU SITE, SITUATED at the West end of Cannes, adjoining Lord Brougham's property ; the finest part of the Town. Newly enlarged. 200 Eooms. 20 private Sitting-rooms. Beading and Smoking-rooms, and English Billiard-table. Sheltered Situation, commanding an unequalled view of the Sea, the Hes Lerins, and the Esterel Mountain. Large beautiful Gardens, Promenades, and Lawn Tennis belonging to the estate. Arrangements made for the Season for Families. Moderate Charges. Bath-rooms and Lift. Omnibuses at the Station. OPENED THE 1st OF OCTOBER. GEORGES GOXJOGOLTZ, Proprietor. CANNES. HOTEL NATIONAL ET DES ILES. fXP~EN all the year. Central position. Southern aspect. Moderate Charges. Arrangements made by the week. JOSEPH CARDON, Proprietor. ENGLISH SPOKEN. CANNES. WINDSOR HOTEL. THIS First-Class Family Hotel is beautifully situated, not too far from the Town and the Sea, of which, however, it enjoys an extensive view. Baths. Smoking and Billiard Boom. Most Comfortable Apartments and Careful Attendance. ED. SCHMID, Proprietor. 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CHAM01WX AIJONT BLANC. THE Chamonix Valley, so justly celebrated for the beauty of its Glaciers and of its Mountains, by which it is surrounded on all sides, is visited every year by thousands of Tourists, who come from all parts of the world to breathe the cool and bracing air so beneficial to the inhabitants of large cities, and so strongly recommended by the best physicians. The Hotel-keepers of Chamonix earnestly wish to do their best to provide Families with every comfort and care, and render their stay in this picturesque valley as agreeable as possible ; their prices are far more moderate than in most other Alpine Stations. Besides the charming walks in the Pine Woods and along the Glaciers, which attract so many strangers to Chamonix, we beg to call to mind the opportunities afforded to make the grand ascents to the Brevent and the Grands-Mulets, and above all, of the Mont Blanc, every year more frequently undertaken. By the aid of powerful telescopes, ascents can be watched as far as the summit of Mont Blanc. The journey from Geneva to Chamonix is performed in 7 hours, by very good diligences, and for several years Chamonix has been connected with Martigny by a carriage- road, whence Travellers can admire without fatigue the beautiful sights so numerous around the Alpine Giant. BECOMMENDED HOTELS. HOTEL IMPERIAL. HOTEL ROYAL. HOTEL de LONDRES and D'ANGLETERRE. HOTEL de l'UNION, Pension des Voyageurs. HOTEL des ALPES. HOTEL du MONT BLANC. HOTEL-PENSION COUTTET. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. GUIDES AND MULES FOR EXCURSIONS. CARRIAGES ON HIRE. Daring the months of July, August, September, Travellers are requested to secure Rooms by letter or telegram. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 CANNES. HOTEL GK>]X]>r:ET. Magnificently Situated) looking on the Zerin Islands. COMFORTABLE HOUSE FOR FAMILIES. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. KEPT BY DUMAS, Proprietor. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE D'OR, ET DU PALAIS ROYAL. Kept by JATJUATJX ERNEST, Proprietor and Director. This Hotel has always been recommended for its great comfort. TABLE WROTE AND RESTAURANT. PERSIAN SMOKING KOOM. CHOICE WINES. OMNIBUSES TO AND FEOM THE STATION. CHAUMONT-NEUCHATEL. TTOTEL DU CHAUMONT, near Neuchatel, Switzerland. 3,500 feet ¦"¦ high. Open from the 18lh of June till end of September., Kept by C. RlTZMANN. Proprietor oftheHfitel Suisse, Cannes. Post and Telegraph Office. Billiards. Carriages in the Hotel. _ _ COBLENZ. GIANT HOTEL— HOTEL DU GEANT. THE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of the Steam-boats and Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar. Moderate Charges. Reduction for a long residence. Pbopbietoes, EISENMAN Bbos. COLOGNE. HOTEL DU DOME. In the front of the Cathedral ; three minutes from the Central Station. Fixed but Mode rate Charges. (65 Journals.) THEODOB. METZ, Proprietor. . CULOZ. HOTEL FOLLIET, Facing the Station, much recommended, and the most comfortable in Culoz ; very conve nient for stopping half way between Paris and Turin, with advantage of mating all the journey by day. N.B.—ASK .FOB THE " BOTEL FOLLIET." COPENHAGEN. HOTEL KONGEN OF DENMARK. THIS First-Class Hotel, much frequented by the highest class of English and American Travellers, affords first-rate accom modation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close to the Boyal Palace, overlooking the King's Square. Excellent Table d'Hote. Private Dinners. Best attendance. Beading Boom. Hot Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American Newspapers. All Languages spoken. Very Moderate Charges. The only Vienna Coffee House. R. KLUM, Proprietor. 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. JOHAM MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ (Opposite the Jttlich's Place), PURVEYOR TO H.M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES j TO H. M. WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 07 THX ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at tJte Paris Exhibition o/1867. T^HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most -*-¦ part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, Induces me to requesl the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its Invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it ; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which Is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, but also the additional words, gegenuber dem Julich's Piatt (that is, opposite the Julich's Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and Intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned againBt being led astray by cabmen, guides; commissioners, and other parties, who offer their serviceE to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop, are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, commissioners, &c, offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get In Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the JUlich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Qoldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three bear my name and firm, Joliann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem JtUich's Plata. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the ' Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1856 ; and received the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in Oporto 1865. Cologne, January, 1881. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. %* Messrs. J. & R. McCiucken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, are my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Ireland. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 CONSTANTINOPLE. The Proprietor of the HOTEL DANGLETERRE (MISSIRIE), In view of the great number of Families and Gentlemen travelling in this Capital, has thought it expedient to fit up » Branch for the accommoda tion of the same, consisting of the HOTEL EOYAL, For some time the residence of H.B.M.'s Ambassador, Sir H. Elliot, His Majesty ihe Emperor of the Brazils, and lately, for two mouths, of His Excellency the Marquis of Salisbury. It is needless to say anything in praise of the fine position and splendid view on the Golden Horn. The Arrangements are thoroughly comfortable, and the Furniture first-class. The Hotel is within two minutes' walk of the British Embassy ; and the Arrangements have given the greatest satisfaction lo the above high personages. The Proprietor begs to inform Gentlemen travelling, that both Establishments are provided with every desirable comfort, Guides, and Attendants ; and at Prices calculated to suit passing Travellers, as well as those making a prolonged stay. F. LOGOTHETTI. CORFU. HOTEL ST. GEOBGE. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, very well situated on the best side of the Esplanade, close to the Royal Palace, is fitted up after the English style, affording first-rate accommodation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Excellent Pension, and prices very moderate. A large addition to the Hotel just now finished makes it one of the most comfortable of the Continent, wiih splendid Apartments, Conversation Saloon, Reading Sdloon and Library, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Bath Room. Magnificent Carriages and Horses, the whole new, neat, and elegant. Ali Languages spoken. Ladles travelling atone will find here the greatest comfort and best attendance. The Hotel is under the patronage of King George I., the Emperor of Austria, and the Grand Duke of Mecklenburgb. S. P. MAZZTJCHY, Proprietor. COWES. DROVER'S MARINE HOTEL. PARADE, ISLE OF WIGHT. First-Class Family Hotel. The Comfort of Visitors carefully studied. Board on low Terms during the Winter Months. CREUZNACH (BAD). PRIVATE HOTEL BAUM. FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel, best situated. Comfortable Baths. Beau tiful garden. Excellent Cooking, Choice Wines. Pension moderate charges. Recommended. F. B. BATTM, Proprietor. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. DIEPPE. HOTEL. ROYAL, Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS J- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this. Establishment elegant Large and Small Apart ments, and the best of accommodation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Koom, with French and English .Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c, are of tbe best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. Table d'Hdte and Private Dinners. %* This Hotel is open all the Tear. DIJON. HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE. Mr. GOISSET, Proprietor. QUITE near the Eailway Station, at the entrance of the Town. First-Class House of old reputation. Enlarged in 1870. Apartments for Families. Carriages for drives. Table d'Hote and Service in private. Reading Room. Smoking Room. English spoken. Exportation of Burgundy Wines. HOTEL GOISSET will be Open in 1883. DIJON. HOTEL DU JUEA. MM. DAVID et MERCIER, Proprietors. T'HIS Hotel is the nearest to the Eailway Station, the Cathe- •*- dral, and the Public Garden Saloons. Apartments and Rooms for Families. Table d'Hote. Private Carriages for hire by the hour. English Newspapers. Omnibus to carry passengers to and from each train. English spoken. The greatest attention is paid to English visitors. Bureau de Change in the Hotel. Considerably enlarged and newly furnished, 1875. The best Burgundy Wines shipped at wholesale prices. DINARD, ILLE ET VILAINE (Brittany). GRAND HOTElT DU CASINO. THIS First-Class Hotel is the nearest to the Casino and Bathing Establishment. Splendid View from the Terrace adjoining the Garden of the Hotel. Private Dining Saloons and Smoking Eooms. Table d'Hote at 11 o'clock a.m. and 6 o'clock p.m. Terms from 12 to 15 francs per day. Excellent Cooking. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. Stabling. L. BIAEDOT, Proprietor. BOUDIN FILS, Successeur. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 DRESDEN. HOTEL BELLE VUE. Situated on the river Elbe, facing the new Opera, the Gal leries, the Green Vaults, Cathedral, and Briihl's Terrace. Well-known First-Class Establishment, with 150 Eooms. Families desirous of taking Apartments for the Winter can make arrangements at very moderate prices. LOOTS FEISTEL, Manager. DRESDEN. VICTORIA HOTEL. THIS First-rate Establishment, situated near the great public Promenade, and five minutes from the Central Station for Prague, Vienna, Berlin, Munich, Frankfort, combines comfort with elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a spacious and beautiful Garden. TWO SUPEKIOE TABLES D'HOTE DAILY. PRIVATE DINNERS AT ANY HOUR. During the Winter, Board and Lodging at very moderate rates. Mr. Weiss has an extensive Stock of the best Bhenish, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Spanish Wines, and will be most happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices. DOVER. ESPLANADE HOTEL. FOR Families, Gentlemen, and Tourists- Pleasantly Bitnated on tbe Marine Promenade, and near the Eailway Stations and Steam-Packets. Well-appointed General Coffee Koom s. DUNDEE. THE QUEEN'S HOTEL A First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel. EOYAL CLARENCE HOTEL, WITH FULL VIEW OF THE GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. Patronised by the best Families. MODERN TARIFF. J. HADON STONBURN, Proprietor. 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.1 May, EGYPT. ALEXANDRIA. CAIRO. HOTEL D'EUROPE. This well-known Hotel, patronised by his Eoyal High ness the Prince of Wales, is situated on the GRAND PUBLIC SQUARE. It is highly recommended to English and American Families. Travellers arriving in ALEXANDRIA will find attentive DRAGOMAN and Omnibus from the Hotel. Pension : 12 Shillings per day. Grand New Hotel Patronised by English and American Families. This magnificent Hotel, with its splendid garden and superb Ve randah, has been improved by the Proprietor, who has spared no ex pense to mate it the best and most comfortable in Egypt. It is situated opposite the Park and Opera House. Large and small Apartments, and elegant Bath Kooins to each Floor. Table d'Hote with attentive Waiters, speaking different Languages. Special Saloons and Reading Eooms, with English and Foreign News papers. Omnibus and Dragoman at the arrival of each. Train. Pension : 12 to 16 Shillings per day. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. '_'9 ENCELBERG. THE VALLEV OP ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high) with its KURHAUS AND HOTEL SONNENBERG, THE properly of Mr. A. LANDRY, &1bo joint-proprietor of the GRAND HOTEL Mt PLGLr, near Genoa. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alpine tcenery, as well as by the curative efficacy of the climate aijaiDst lung aud chest diseases, coughs, nervous ailments, 4c, &o. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recommended by the highest medical authorities. The HOThIL SONNENBERti in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers is one or the most comfortable and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and cential place for sketching, bot T E L. ROYAL. (FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.) SITUATED in the best part of the City, and opposite the General Railway Station. Large and small Apartments and Single Bed-rooms for Gentlemen. Every comfort. Baths in the Hotel. MODERATE CHARGES. CHRIST BROS., Proprietors. HAVRE. GRAND HOTEL DE NORMANDIE. RUE DE PARIS. FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, exceedingly well situated in the centre of the Town. Apartments for Families. Moderate prices. Music and Conversation Saloons. " Table d'H6te." Restaurant a la Carte. English and German spoken. M. DESCLOS, Proprietor. HAVRE. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. RUE DE PARIS, 124-126. EXCEEDINGLY well-situated in the best quarter of the Town, is recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Apartments for Families ; Music and Conversation Saloons. Restaurant a la Carte. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Breakfast, 2 francs. Dinners at Table d'Hote, 3 francs. Board and Lodging from 8 to 10 francs per day. Wine and Service included. English and German spoken. GRELLE, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 HEIDELBERG. — Hdtel Prince Charles. A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. CONSIDEBABLY enlarged by a New Building. Contains a splendid Dining Room, Breakfast Boom, and a fine Beading Boom. Ten Balconies. This Hotel, patronised} by their Highnesses tbe Prince of Wales and Prince Alfred, is the largest in the Town, and thoroughly Benovated and Newly Furnished. Beet Cookery. Good Wines. Charges Seasonable. Moderate Arrangements made by the Week. The Hotel is situated in an open Square, eight minutes' walk from the celebrated Castle, with the finest view of the ruins from all the balconies and nearly all the windows ; two minutes' walk to the Necker Bridge. Close to the Nurnburg and Wnrzbnrp Bailway Station. Omnibufl and Hotel Porter raiet the Train. Mr. Sommer tvporta Wine to England. Mr. Ellmer traa for many peart the Manager of the Hotel Baur au Lac, at Zurich. *** Bailway Tickets can be obtained at tbe Bureau of tbe Hotel, and Luggage booked to all Stations. BOMMEK & ELLMEE, Proprietors. " HEIDELBERG. HOTEL EUROPE. THE finest and best situated Hotel in Heidelberg ; kept in very superior and elegant style of a First-class Family HoteL The beautiful extensive Gardens are for tbe exclusive use of the Visitors. Hot and Cold Baths fitted up in a superior manner in the Hotel. Omnibus at the Station. Terms strictly moderate. Railway Tickets are issued in the Hotel. HAEFELI-GTJJKR, Proprietor. A HOMBURG. HOTEL BELLE VUE.— First-Class Hotel, exceedingly well situated, opposite the Park of the Eursaal, and close to the Springs. Families, and Single Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most comfortable, comoining excellent accommo dation with cleanliness and moderate Charges. Best French and English Cooking. Excellent Wines. Hare and Partridge Shooting free. H. ELLENBERG-ER, Proprietor. HYERES, HOTEL DE L'ERMITAGE. BEAUTIFULLY situated in the Pine Forest, well sheltered, and commanding magnificent view of the Mediterranean and the lies of Hyeres. Drawing and Dining Kooms, full South. Billiards. Pull-sized Lawn Tennis Grounds. English management. Divine Serrice in the Hotel. OMNIBUS TO AND FROM ALL TRAINS. A. PEYRON, Proprietor. 84 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ^ay, HYERES-LES-PALMIERS. GRAND HOTEL DES ILES D'OE. THIS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, the largest in the Town, is situated in the middle of a most beautiful Garden. Lawn Tennis Ground in front of the Hotel. Dining and Drawing Eooms full South, containing a Collection of Pictures by a celebrated French artist. Smoking Room, Billiards, and Baths. i Pension from 10 francs a day and upwards. E. WEBER, Proprietor. T HYERES (VAR)."' GRAND HOTEL D'ORIENT. HIS Hotel is situated in the m'HIsf. salubrious and sheltered part of Hyeres, and is the Eesort of the elite' oi, English and French Society. ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS. I LFRACOM BE. FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. KBPLBTB with every Home Comfort.; A Spacious 'Ladies' Coffee Eoomi with large number of Bed Booms, has just been added. Large and Spacious Commercial and Stock Room. Moderate Charges. First-Class Billiard Boom. Omnibus meets every Train. GENERAL COACH OFFICE AND DELIVERY AGENT. E. LAKE, Proprietor. ILFRACOMBE. TLFBACOMBE HOTEL. "A Model of Sanitary Excellence.'*— The JL Ufracombe Hotel is on therSea-shore, in its own picturesque grounds of Five Acres. It contains 250 Rooms. The Coarges are fixed and moderate, and there is a Table d'Hote Daily. Every information will be affor-ded"by the .Manager. Tourist Tickets to Hfracombe for Two Months are issued at all principal Stations. There is attached to the Hotel one of the largest Swimming Baths in England. < ' ¦¦ * < INTER LA KEN. GRAND H6TEL DES ALPES. THIS House is surrounded by the, Largest Shady Garden, commanding a Full View of the Glaciers. WARM AND COLD BATES ON EACB FLOOR. MAUEBE-KNEaSTENHOVER, Proprietor. 1NTERLAKEN. \\ 6TEL AND PENSION WYDEK.— This First-Class House, already -*--*- well-known for its comfort and for its splendid open situation, has recently been enlarged, and is especially adapted for both Families and Tourists— for the former on account of its general comfortable arrangements, for the latter on account of its proximity to the Post Office and Railway Station. Charges Moderate. H. WYDER-MTTLIiER, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. INM<5RRIIOK HUlliL, uU 1 iltulj. — rirat-Ulasa Jd6tei, in a beautiful position near the Station and the new Steam Baths, with magnificent Views of the Valley of the Inn and the Mountains. Comfortable Apartments, Heading, Smoking, Bath Rooms, &c, with every modern convenience. Arrangement for protracted stay. Special terms for sojourn in winter. Clime exceedingly healthy, air bracing. In Winter Stairs and Pass ages warmed. From the top of the Hotel a fine bird's-eye view of the Town and Valleys. OABIi IiAETDSEE. INNSBRUCK. H6TEL I>E L'EUROPE. KEPT by Mr. J. RELNHART.— A new and well-furnished First-Class Hotel, conveniently situated, just facing the splendid valley of the Inn, opposite the Railway Station. Excellent Table d'Hote and private Dinners. Arrangements made at very reasonable prices. Well-furnished Apartments. English Newspapers taken in. Splendid situation, command ing a fine View of the Mountains. English spoken. INTERLACKEN. J. GROSSMANN, Sculptor in Wood, and Manufacturer of Swiss Wood Models and Ornaments. Carved and Inlaid Furniture Manufactured to any Design, AT INTEKtACKJErV. HIS WAREHOUSE Is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schwekerhof, where he keeps the largest and best assortment pf the above objects to be found in Switzer land. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspohdents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCrackek, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., Loudon. " INTERLAKEN. GRAND HOTEL BEAURIVAGE. Recently tmilt in a Splendid Position. EVERY LUXURY AND COMFORT. H. REGLI, Proprietor. 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, INTERLAKEN. HOTEL - DPJEIYSIOFf, JUNGFRAU. F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor. rFHIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated -*- in the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its delightful position, as well as for its comfortable accommodation. TABLE D'HOTE AT 2 AND 6.30 O'CLOCK. DINNERS A LA CARTE. CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS. KILLARNEY. LAKES OF KILLARNEY, By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, Patronized by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR, and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c. T^HIS HOTEL is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water's edge, within J- ten minutes* drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. It is lighted with gas made on the premises; and is the Largest Hotel in the district. A magnificent Coffee-room, a public Drawing-room for Ladies and Families, Billiard and Smoking-rooms, and several suites of Private Apartments facing the Lake, have been recently added TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON. Cars, Carriages, Boats, Ponies, and Guides at fixed moderate charges. Drivers, Boatmen, and Guides are paid by the Proprietor, and are not allowed to solicit gratuities. The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains. THERE IS A POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. Boarding Terms from October to June, inclusive. lt is necessary to inform Tourists that the Railway Company, Proprietors of the Railway Hotel in the Town, send upon the platform, as Toutersfor their Hotel, the Porters, Car-drivers Boatmen, and Guides in their employment, and exclude the servants of the Hotels on the Lake, who will, however, be found in waiting at the Station-door. JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 KARLSRUHE. HOTEL GERMANIA. SITUATED a few minutes from the Railway Station, on the Public Gardens. This First-Class Hotel is furnished with every modern comfort. 100 Rooms and Suites of Apartments. Bed and attendance from 2 Marks. The whole of the house heated so as to ensure comfort to "Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arrangements are made. Baths. Lift. Omnibuses at the Station. JOSEF LEERS) Proprietor, KISSINGEN. HOTEL SANNEB. FIEST-CLASS Family Hotel, of good reputation for its comfort, cleanliness, and good Cuisine. Beautiful situation ¦with open views. Well furnished large and small Apartments. Three Minutes from the Kurhaus, Springs, and Garden. The only Hotel in Kissingen fitted up with the latest improved Sanitary Water appliances. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. SCHMIDT, Proprietor. LAUSANNE-OUCHY. GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE (OUCHY). Dibeotor, A. MAKTLN-KUFENACHT. T-HIS splendid Establishment, constructed on a grand scale, is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the shores of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an English Park and Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English Church. PENSION ITST WINTER AT VERY MODERATE PRICES. Constant communication with the City and Railway Station by Omnibus. Baths, Telegraph, and Post Office in the Hotel. LAUSANNE. HOTEL BELLE VTJE. Most Beautiful Situation. Reasonablo Terms and Pension. F. WICHMAN, Proprietor. LAUSANNE. a RAND H6TEL DE RICHEMOttT Kept by Mr. and Mrs. BITTER WOLBOLD. Splendid first-rate Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly beautiful and healthy situation in every respect. Strictly moderate charges. 38 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, LAUSANNE. Hotel etPensionduFaucon. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. English Comforts. Prices Moderate. A. BAACE, Proprietor, LEAMINGTON. The Clarendon Family and Private Hotel. SITUATED to the highest part of the Town. Highly recommended by the best English and American Families, for Comfort and Moderate Charges. Carriages. LISBON, HOTEL DUEAND. A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated near the Landing place andJOpera-house. Highly recommendable for its cleanliness, comfort, and good Attendance. Private Table d'Hote. Terms moderate. LOUIS DURAND, Proprietor. LISBON. BRAGANZA HOTEL. THIS First-Class well-known Family Hotel, lately renovated by the Royal House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor C. Sassetti, highly recommendable for its large, airy, and comfortable Apartments, commanding the most extensive and picturesque views ot the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior Cuisine, and carefully* selected AVines. Under the tame Management, within 2+ hours' drive. VICTOR'S HOTEL, CINTllA. SHAFTESBURY HOTEL. 98, 30, 33, & 34, MOUNT PLEASANT. Three minutes' walk from Central and Lime Street Stations. Omnibuses from Exohange and Landing Stage for the Steamers pass every few minutes. Moderate charges. Conducted strictly on Temperance principles. LONDON. WHOTOSWRpRESENTSS LETTS. ALABGE Collection of Views of this Neighbourhood, from Is. each ; also of Views of other parts of the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Egypt, Palestine, India, United States, English Cathedrals, Abbeys and Castles, on approval, to double amount of cash sent. Lists on receipt of stamped addressed envelope to LETTS, SON, & CO., LIMITED, 72, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, LONDOB', E.C, A Pure Solution. For Acidity of the Stomach. For Heartburn and Headache. For Gout and Indigestion. Safest Aperient for Delicate Constituttono, Ladies, Children, and Infants. New Bond Street, London. DINNEFORD'S MAGNESIA. DINNEFORD & CO., 180, Sold by Chemists throughout the World. MURRAY'S MODERN LONDON, 3s. 8d. MURRAY'S ENVIRONS OE LONDON, 21s. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 30 ,A1 _,:;•¦;;¦ ^LONDON. HEAL AND SON HAVE APDET) DINING-ROOM FURNITURE AND DRAWING-ROOM FURNITURE TO THEIE VERY LARGE STOCK OF BED -ROOM FURNITURE. N.B.— An ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, containing 600 Designs of Bedsteads and Bedroom Furniture, and Priced List of Bedding sent free by post. HEAL AND SON, 195, 196, 197, & 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, LONDON, W. 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. LONDON. THE LONDON AND WESTMTNSTEK BANK, Limited, issues Circular Notes of £10, £25, and £60 each, for the use ot iravellers payable in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Attica, and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches, viz.: — Westminster Branch , Bloomsbury „ Southward „ Eastern „ May, 1881. 1, St. James's Square. 214, High Holbom. 6, High St., Borough. 130, High St., White- chapel. 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street. 211, Strand. 89 & 91, Westminster Bridge Boad. South Kensington Branch, 192, Brompton Rd. Marylebone Branch Temple Bar „ Lambeth ,¦ GOLD MEDAL, JOSEPH GILLOTT'S STEEL PENS. Sold by all dealers throughout ihe World. GOLD MEDAL PARIS EXHIBITION, 1878. (Twelfth International Medal awarded.') Frys Cocoa FRY'S CARACAS COCOA in packets and tins, specially recommended by the Manufacturers, is prepared from the celebrated Cocoa of Caracas, combined with other choice descriptions. " A most delicious and valuable article." — Standard. Frys Cocoa FRY'S EXTRACT OF COCOA— "Which really consists of Cocoa Nibs deprived of superfluous oil than which, if properly prepared, there is no nicer or' more wholesome preparation of Cocoa." — Food, Water and Air Dr. Hassall. ' ' J. S. FRY & SONS, BRISTOL AND LONDON. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 l LON DON. THE GRAND HOTEL, TRAFALGAR SQUARE. Tliis Magnificent Hotel occupies the Finest Site in the CENTRE OP THE METROPOLIS, And combines the Elegance and Luxury of the most important and attractive Hotels in Europe and America, with the Repose and Domestic Comfort which are essentially English. T'HE HOTEL stands on the site of the former Northumber- -¦- land House, and commands the entire view of Trafalgar Square. It is but a short WALKING DISTANCE from the PRINCIPAL PUBLIC BUILDINGS, Fine Art and other Galleries, Theatres, and Places of Amusement ; and is in the midst of the means of Conveyance to all parts of London and the Suburbs. THE GROUND FLOOR is occupied by the Grand Salle k Manger, and spacious Secondary Dining and Reception Rooms. ON THE FIRST FLOOR are the Ladies' Drawing Rooms, Library, and various Suites of Apartments, comprising all the convenience of Family Residences. The upper Storeys contain between 200 and 300 Rooms, either en suite or in separate Apartments. For Particulars apply to THE MANAGER, GRAND HOTEL, TRAFALGAR SQUARE, LONDON. f?l . . ^u One of the Sights and one of the Comforts of London. y..*p THE HOLBORN RESTAURANT, 218, HIGH HOLBORN. THE FAMOUS TABLE D'hQtE DINNER, served at separate Tables, accompanied with Selection of High-class Music by complete Orchestra. 5.30 to 6.30 every Evening, 3».6<2. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK- ADVERTISER. MaT' LONDON. HANDBOOK TO THE ENVIEONS OF LONDON — An Account, from personal visits, of every Town and Village within a circle of twenty miles round the Metropolis, and the more important places lying four or five miles beyond that boundary. Alphabetioally arranged. By' James Thobnb, P.S.A. With Index of Names. 2 vols. Crown 8vd. 21s. i This Work comprises the whole of Middlesex; pa¥t of Surrey, [Kent, Essex, and Herts, and smaller portions of Berks and Bucks. " Such a work as Mr. Thorriete Handbook was called, for. The, ¦ call ' has been admirably responded to.. ' Mr. Thorne's book, although a work of reference and a guide, is fuU of pleasant gossip. We find Mr. Thome's book an excellent performance of a work which was required." — The Times. —^ ^ — JOHN .MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. DORRELL AND SON'S PASSPORT AGENCY, 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. A PASSPORT, ifl &¦ ready means ttf" identification, and1 although' it may not be asked for in gome countries, in others it is absolutely necessary, and the want of it may cause great inconvenience. British Subjects visiting the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Passports through the above Agency. No personal- attendance is required, and country residents may have their Passports forwarded through. -the post. A Form of Application forwarded by Post, Passports Mounted and enclosed in Cases with the name of the bearer impressed in gold on tbe outside ; thus affording security against injury or loss, and pre venting delay in tbe frequent examination of the Passport when travelling. Fee, Obtaining Passport, ls.6a\ ; Visas, Is. each. Cases, Is. 6d. to 5*. each'. - ,' v ' , - > : ¦ , - the; COMMERCIAL BANK OF ALEXANDRIA, LIMITED. CAPITAL, £480,000, in Shares of £6 each. Paid-up £3 per Snare, say £240,000. , RESERVE FTTMD, £25,000. |i Emmanuel A. Benachi, Esq. Jacob Bright, Esq., M.P. John Cow, Esq. Jmttnrs. Thomas S. Richardson, Esq., Chairman. John Constantine Choremi, Esq. Joseph MBixoR,,.Esq. Constantine Georgio Zervudachi, Auditors— W. W. Deloitte, Esq., and John Elin, Esq. HEAD OFFICE-2, MOORGATE STEEET, LONDON, E.C. Wiliiam Robert La Thangue, Manager. John Brooks, Secretary. ALEXANDRIA OFFICE.— Duke Baker, Manager. 33 antes. BANK OF ENGLAND. LONDON AND COUNTY BANK. Letters of Credit granted on Alexandria, and payments made in Cairo and Suez Bills for collection encashed in any part of Egypt, and the purchase and sale of EevDtian and all kinds of Securities undertaken. Interest allowed at the rate of 6 per cent, per annum on money deposited for not lpss than twelve months. , 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. LONDON. TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. Ladies visiting the Seaside, Kinking, Driving, or otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of the Sun, or heated particles of dust, will find ROWLAND'S KALYDOR Most cooling and refreshing to the face, hands, and arms ; it eradicates all Sunburn, Freckles, Tan, Stings of Inseots, &c. Sizes, is. Gd. and. 8s. 6d. per Bottle. ROWLAND'S ODONTO has been proved, by its unparalleled success of 50 years, to be the best, purest, and most fragrant Dentifrice for procuring White and Sound Teeth, Healthy Gums, and Fragrant Breath, being perfectly free from all deleterious and aeid compounds, which give a temporary whiteness to the Teeth, but ultimately ruin the enamel. Sold by Chemists and Perfumers. FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 1. CLASSICAL, CATALOGUE. 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA LOGUE. 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. fi. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC CATALOGUE. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. NATURAL HISTORY CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe matics, &c, 10. 11. NATURAL SCIENCE CATALOGUE. Mathematics, Astronomy, Physics, Chemistry, Technology. 12. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen dent Sciences. 13. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele mentary Books, Maps, &c. 14. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU LARS. New Books, and New Purchases. 15. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU LARS. New Books and Recent Purchases. ANT CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOK ONE STAMP. WILLIAMS & NORGATB, Importers of Foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, South Frederick Street. Edinburgh. 44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, LONDON. CHUBB'S LOCKS & SAFES. flHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOK LOCKS, the most secure from \J picklocks and false keyB, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, Ac, fitted with only the usual coramon and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by Chtjbb's Patent without alteration or injury. Travellers' Lock-Pbotkctobs and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that may be found fastened only by common Locks. CHUBB _. „ Concordia. fZuumermaDl1 >, „ Bellevue, F. Weinmann 6050 1881. MaREAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. (VIE.BWALDS-TATTiEB^BE)" ENVIRONS. (Switzerland) 4? URI. UNTERWALD. Alt. in Ft above Sea WsggiS— {Continued). Hatel & Pens. Gehrig, Dr. med; Gehrig Pension Herrenmatt, Wwe. Staebll' ' Hotel & Pension Lutzelauy Dolder H. &P. Schloss Hertenatein, Frel-Meyer Vitznau (Station der Eigi-Bahnen). Hotel & Pension Pfyffer, Wwe. Pfyffer „ „ Kreuz, A.Zimmermann „ Kigibahn,Koller-FlQck Cafe zum Alpenroscben, Stalder Bigi-Bahn Vitznau-Kulm ^ „ Kaltbad-Scheideck Bigi. Hotel Rigi-Kulm, Gebr. Schreiber (End-Station der Rigi-Bahn) Hot. & P. Rigi-Kaltbad, Segesser-Faaden (Station d. Bahn. nacb RigUScb.eideck) IH. & P. Pjgi-ScheiUeck, Hauser Robert Warts, lor 30 years Proprietor. The best centre for visiting Sherwood Forest " the Dukeriee," W.ilbeck, Thoresby, Clumber, Newstead, Hardwick, Bolsover, &c " The' best plan is to get a carriage from the Swan at Mansfield."— Rambles among the Hills by Louis J. Jennings. . An Omnibus meets all Trains. ' 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 MALVERN (GREAT). THE IMPEEIAL. THE attention of Foreign and Home Tourists seeking a salubrious and charming part of England is reBpeotfully drawn to this Establishment, the largest and principal one in the district— comfortable, well appointed, specially adapted for Family Residence, and the charges strictly moderate. Terms :— From £3 3s, per Week, Including Bedroom, Attendance, Meals, and use of Public Rooms, Special arrangements made with Families intending to reside for some time. THE NEW AND ELEGANT SWIMMING BATH. Part of a complete system of Baths in course of erection — IS NOW OPEN. TARIFFS FORWARDED ON APPLICATION. MARIENBAD (BOHEMIA). HOTEL KLINGER. Proprietor, J. D. HALBMAYE. FIRST and LAEGEST HOTEL in this Watering Place. Preferred on account of its charming situation at the corner of the Pro menade and Park, and has a beautiful View. Newly and elegantly furnished with every comfort and in noble style, containing, with the Dependance, 270 Rooms, Saloons, &c. English spoken in the Hotel. Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to the Bailway Station. _______ 3>T^1~W _5_____ __0__3Xj. TYACK'S, late IVATTS AND JORDAN'S. THIS first-class old-established Family House, acknowledged to be one of the most homely and comfortable Hotels in the Kingdom, is situated in the most elevated and open part of the Taller, sur rounded by its own extensive pleasure grounds and gardens, and commands the finest views of the grand and picturesque scenery for which Matlock Bath (the Switzerland of England) stands unrivalled. A public Dining Boom and Drawing Boom. Private Sitting Booms. Coffee, Smoking, and Billiard Booms. A large Swimming Bath in the Hotel. Table d'Hote daily, at 6,30 p.m. Excellent Stabling and Coach Houses, Posting, Fishing, Lawn Tennis, Croquet. A 'Bus to meet each Train. MAYENCE. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. KLEEBLATT & STOECKICHT, Proprietors. (Formerly FEED. BUDINGEN.) THIS First-class well-known Hotel, much frequented by English Families and Tourists, has been greatly enlarged and improved, and contains now 140 Rooms and Saloons. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. English comfort. This Hotel is situated on the River, opposite to the Landing-place of the Rhine Steamers, and near the Railway Station, and affords from its Balconies and Windows splendid views of the Rhine and Taunus Mountains. This Hotel is reputed for its excellent Cooking, exquisite Wines, Cleanliness, and good Attendance. English Newspapers. Choice Rhine and Moselle Wines, wholesale and for exportation. 50 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MARSEILLES. GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES. 24 RUE NOAILLES (Cannebiere Prolongee). The greatest and most important of the large Hotels of Marseilles, having a large Garden looking south, surrounded by the Dining Rooms. Hydraulic Lift serving all the Floors. Omnibug and Carriages enter the Hotel, and are to be found at all Trains. THE TARIFF OF PRICES ARE HUNG UP IN EVERY ROOM. M. MAURICE GORDE, Manager. MENTONE. HOTEL DU PAVILLON AND PRINCE DE GALLE8. FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. SITUATED in the healthiest parts of Mentone, and com manding a fine View of the Town and the Sea, and combining every English oomfort with moderate charges. Pension 8 francs a day. S. F. KIPFER, Proprietor. MENTONE. (Alpes Maritimes.) HOTEL DES ANGLAIS. T^HIS well-known Establishment has been newly improved, -*- and combines every modern comfort with moderate and fixed prices. It is always conducted under the Superintendence of the Proprietors, Messrs. CLERICY BROTHERS. MENTONE. ISNARD'S HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. THIS well-known ESTABLISHMENT is beautifully situated in the best quarter of the Town, with a vast Garden, and affords every English comfort. MENTONE. HOTEL AND PENSION DU MIDI. Situated Promenade du Midi, commanding a splendid view of the Sea. Pension from 8 francs per day. BIGNON, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 M ENTONE. HOTEL WESTMINSTER. Central First-Class Establishment. BUILT and furnished with taste and according to the latest improvements. In a Southern aspect overlooking the Sea, and a beautiful Garden giving access to the publio "Promenade du Midi." Public Saloon and Reading Room. Billiard and Smoking Eooms. ENGLISH AND SEVERAL FOREIGN LANGUAGES SPOKEN. OMNIBUS TO AND FEOM THE BAILWAY STATION. MILAN. ~~" GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN. 200 Booms and Saloons, with every comfort and requirements of the present day." Pension in the Winter Months. V THE ONLY HOUSE AT MILAN WHICH HAS A HYDRAULIC LIFT. J. SPATZ-WttKMS. M I LAN. HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE E REICHMANN. Proprietor, J. LEG NAN I. HE House is situated in the centre of the Town, near the Cathedral and all other Places of interest. Good Table d'Hote. The Times, &c. Several Languages spoken. The House is only two Storeys high. Fire minutes' walk from the English Church. T Omnibus at the Station to meet all Trains. 'moffat hydropathic establishment and sanatorium, dumfriesshire, n.b. Resident Physician, Dr. R. THOMSON FORBES. THTS Establishment, which occupies a beautiful situation on the western slope of the beautifully wooded Gallowhill, and within a short distance of the far-famed " Moffat Well," is replete with every comfort for visitors and patients. The public rooms, halls, and corridors are universally recognized as unsurpassed by any similar Establishment, and the baths are of the most varied. and perfect construction. Moffat has long been a favourite resort for thotie seeking health and pleasure, and in the Establishment, there is the addi tional attraction of good society and varied amusements. C. MIT, Manager. ______ : E 2 52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Lake ofGeneva. Switzerland. MONTREUX. Comprising CLARENS, VERNEX, BONPORT, TERRITET, and VEYTAUX; that is to say, all the District situated between the Castle of Chillon and the Castle of Cretes, on the shores of the Lake of Geneva, and known as the NICE OF SWITZERLAND, in consequence of the incomparable softness of its climate. THE CLIMATE of all others recommended by all the medical celebrities for persons suffering from weakness of the chest, of the nervous system, and convalescents. Excellent resting-place for persons returning from hot countries. LUXURIANT VEGETATION, SALUBRIOUS AIR, tempered in summer by the breezes' from the lake and mountains, completely shaded from the cold north winds. Central position for a large number of EXCURSIONS In the ALPS. KURSALL, containing Theatre and Concert Boom, Drawing Eooms, large Winter Garden and extensive Park, situated in the most delightful position in the country. OPEN SEPTEMBER 1st. ALKALINE SPRING, similar to those of Evian and Contbexevili.e. THREE RAILWAY STATIONS. Clarens, Vernex-Montreux, and Veytaux-Chillon, and three landing-places for Steamers. OFFICIAL RETURN of TRAVELLERS in 1880, 283,054. SIXTY HOTELS AND PENSIONS, with every modern comfort, from the simplest to the most sumptuous, from 5 to 10 francs a day. Numerous VILLAS and APARTMENTS. WORSHIP in the respective Churches — French, German, English, Scotch, and Catholic. ENVIRONS OF MONTREUX. GLYON. Height 700 metres (Hotels du Eighi Vaudois, and Hotel Victoria). LES-AVANTS. Height 1000 metre's (Grand Hotel des Avants). VILLARS-SUR-OLLON. Height 1275 metres (Hotel du Grand Mouveran et Pension des Chalets). These three last Stations, in the neighbourhood of Montreux, offer every comfort, and are in Summer the rendezvous of many Tourists and Foreigners. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5:5 MUNICH, BAVARIAN HOTEL. HOTEL DE BAVIERE. OTTO PLOECKER, Proprietor. Excellent First-class Hotel. Finest and healthiest situation on the Promenade Platz, near the Boyal Theatres and Galleries. Every modern Oomfoi 1 Baths and Carriages in the Hotel. Best Cooking and Wines. Moderate Charges. Personal management by the Proprietor. ^ ^ MUNICH. WIMMER & CO., GILLEBY OF FINE ARTS, 3, BRIEN'NER STREET, Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Aets, containing an Extensive Collection of MODERN PA! NTI NGS by the best Munich Artists. PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCkacken, 38. Queen Street, Cannon Street E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Baldwin Bros. & Co. 12, Broadway, New York. NAPLES. HOTEL DE ROME. FIRST-RATE HOTEL. Incomparable situation facing the Sea and overlooking the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. Great Bath Establishment. A. BRUSCHETTI, Manages. NICE-(CARABACEL). JULLIEN'S HOTEL. Highly Kecommended. CHARGES VEBY MODERATE. JULLIEN, Proprietor. NICE. HOTEL DE FRANCE— Quai Massena. Mme J. ZUNDEL, Proprietress. "PIKST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL of universal reputation, -T commanding a fine View of the Sea, and in best central position, close to the Public Garden and the Promenade. House Patronised especially by English and American Families. Table d'Hote, having the Reputotion of being the best in Nice. Charges very moderate. U MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May> N I c e!'1 SQCIETE ANONYME DE LA GRANDE BRETAGKE. HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. Best Position of the Town, facing the Public Gardens, where Concerts are given Daily, and overlooking the PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS AND THE SEA. New Beading and Smoking Booms. South. COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL (late Chauvain's). Enlarged, Restored, and entirely Befurnished by the New Manager. Beading, Ladies' Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Booms. SPLENDID GALLERIE PROMENOIR. FOUR LIFTS. HOTEL DE L'ELYSEE, 59, PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS. Admirably Situated in a Vast Garden. Splendid View of the Promenade and the Sea. Reading, Ladies' Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Booms. Full South. Arrangements made for a Protracted Stay. N.B. — These three well-known First-Class Establishments are situated full South, and heated by " Caloriferes." Bath Rooms on every Floor. Excellent Cuisine. Choice Wines. Moderate Charges. J. LAVIT, Direeteur-Gerant. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISES. 55 NU REMBERG. HOTEL DE BAVIERE. Proprietress, Mrs. G. P. AUINGEE. THIS First-class Hotel is situated in the middle of the Town, close to the River. It is highly patronized by English and American Families. Every comfort and Moderate Charges. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Omnibuses to and from each Train. Carriages in the Hotel. ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE HELD EVERY SUNDAY IN THE HOTEL. OSTEND- HOTEL FONTAINE. A FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. ARRANGEMENT WITH FAMILIES. TABLE D'HdTE at 5 : 30. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. Beading Room. The Salle a Manger contains a Collection of Paintings of the Masters. OSTEND. MERTIAN'S FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL AND PENSION". Close to the Kursaal. OSTEND. Murray's Handbook for Holland and Belgium. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. OXFORD. THE CLARENDON HOTEL. (Patronised by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H.R.H. Prince Leopold, Their Imperial Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, the Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte.) Situate in the most central part of the City, and near to the principal Colleges, and places of interest to visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find this Hotel replete with every comfort. Spacious Coffee and Billiard Rooms. Private Sitting and Bed rooms en suite. Ladies' Coffee Room . Guides always in attendance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Post Horses. Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Houses.— JOHN F. ATTWOOD, Proprietor. OXFORD. R, ^ IV D O L 3P H HOTEL. THE ONLY MODERN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. Every Comfort. Close to the Colleges. Prices Moderate. MISS I' ANSON, Manageress. HOTEL BELLE VUE, 39, AVENUE DE L'OPERA. FINEST SITUATION IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. EIKST-BATE Eestaurant and Table d'H6te. Beading and Smoking Booms. Hydraulic Lift. Baths. Telephone. The Entrance Hall, Staircases, and Corridors are heated. Arrangements for the Winter Season. L. HAUSER, Proprietor. 66 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Md?> PARIS. TOBACCO IN PARIS. W. D. & H. O. WILLS' BEST BIRD'S-EYE AND CIGARETTES Are now (by the courtesy of the French Government) sold at the Bureau of the Eegie Grand Hotel, Paris, at the rate of 12 Francs the Pound, and 80 Centimes the Box of Ten Cigarettes. WILIS' "BEST BIRD'g-KYK," _ WTT T Q' ^WWBVT? C5 A GrqPT "X? <3. >' WJ.AixJlac3 x JtaJuJt&Jca. U)i\.j5 X JLaJcaSj AND WllalaS' "WE«TWARD-HO," SMOKING MIXTURE, (All specially prepared for export) may be obtained in Brussels, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Stockholm, Gothenburg, in • most towns in Switzerland, and in the principal cities of the German Empire. Purchasers should beware of imitations, and see that every packet bears the name of W. D. & H. O. WILLS. BRISTOL & LONDON. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. PARIS. HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES ET D'ANGKLETERRE. 22, AVENUE DE L'OPERA. Founded in 1854, formerly 8, Rue d'Antin. Mr. LEQTJETJ, Proprietor. Splendid Situation between the Tuileries and the New Grand Opera. The most comfortable Family Hotel, being built specially. Patronized by the English Aristocracy. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE. READING, SMOKING, AND BILLIARD ROOMS ; BATHS. LIFT. MODERATE CHARGES. ABBANGEMENTS MADE FOB BOABB. ~ ~ pAR|s. OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS. THE Establishment of the late celebrated Civil Engineer, CFIEVALLIER, 15, Place du Pont Neuf (Founded in 1740). Sole Successor DUCUAY CHEVALLIER, Manufacturer of Microscopes, of improved double Opera Glasses, Military Telescopes, Telescopes of all kinds. Mathematical, Meteorological Instruments tor Natural Philosophy, the Navy, &c, Auihor of the " Conservateur de la vue " de " l'Essat sur l'art del'mgenieur," &c. Inventor of the Jumelles centrees (unproved Opera Glasses). Winter Eeaort. PEGLI. Sea Bathing. aHAND HOTEL. DISTANT FROM GENOA: AN HOUR BY TRAMWAY, AND THIRTY MINUTES BY RAILWAY. SAME CLIMATE AS MENTONE AND SAN REMO. Stay of Their Imperial and Royal Highnesses the CROWN PRINCE and CROWN PRINCESS of Germany. MAGNIFICENT First-Class Establishment, of 100 Eooms, with Southern aspect, in the middle of a large Park and Garden of Exotic Plants. English Service in the Chapel, on the grounds of the Hotel. Resident English Physician. Warm Sea Water Baths. Splendid Bathing Establishment on the shore. Excellent place for Excursions, Sketching, and Botanising. First-rate Cooking. Very moderate prices. LANDEY & BTJCHEN, Proprietors. PISA. EOYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. Ctewn. Great attention. Hecommended. Messrs. Maqoat Hooker's Banking Office is in the Hotel. RAGAZ. SOHWEIZERHOP HOTEL & PENSION. "DEST situation, next to the Baths, affords -D every convenience to English and American Travellers. English Papers. Garden. Moderate Terms. Q. JAKLE, Proprietor. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PENZANCE. QUEEN'S HOTEL. (On *« Esplanade.) Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland. N THIS magnificent Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all ttaeKooms of which overlook the Sea. lt is the only Hotel that commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount's Bay. Apartments en suite. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to,invalids. Ladies' Coffee and Drawing Rooms. Billiard Room. Sot and Gold Baths.' Table d'Hute at 7 o'clock. An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches. Yachts, &c. ' A. H. HORA, Proprietor. PENZANCE. Seaside Family Hotel and Superior Lodging-House. MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, ON THE ESPLANADE. O expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to West Cornwall. All the Draw ing-Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed View of St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent bay. Invalids will find in MOUNT'S BAT HOUSE the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on the Sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. Suites of Apartments for Families of Distinction. Post Horses and Carriages, Yachts and Pleasure Boats, on shortest notice. CHARCES MODEEATE. MRS. E. LA YIN, Proprietress. PLYMOUTH. THE EOYAL HOTEL, FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AMU POSTING HOUSE. 8. PEARSE, Proprietor. _ PLYMOUTH. Only Hotel with Sea View. GRAND HOTEL. CON THE HOE.) Facing Sound, Breakwater, &c. Mail Steamers anchor in sight. Public Rooms and Sittlns JAMES BOHN, Proprietor. Rooms, with Balconies. 1381. MUERAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59 DUKE PLYMOUTH. OF CORNWALL HOTEL. Railway TerminHS— Plymouth, Devon (Postal Telegraph Office). First-Class Family Hotel. Table d'Hote daily. MRS. C. H. BfJDD; Manager. PRAGUE. "ENGLISCHER HOF." (HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.) TME8T-CLASS. The next to the Vienna, Dresden, and Karlsbad A Station. Pafronised by English and Americans. English, American, and French Papers. Eeading Eoom. Ladks' Coffee Boom. Excellent Board. Beasonable Charges. GUSTAV HUTTIG, Proprietor. RIGI-KALTBAD. A LPINE CLIMATE. 1500 metres above the sea. Opened from June ¦£*- to October. First-Class Hotel, with 300 Rooms comfortably furnished Finest situa tion. The only Establishment on the Rigi sheltered from the cold winds. Large Park and Gardens, Terraces, Verandahs, especially for the use.of Visitors. Level Walks and facilities for Excursions. * Railway Station. Post and Telegraph Office. Physician. Baths. Divine Service Good Orchestral Band. NEWSPAPERS, BILLIARDS, $c, IN THE HOUSE. Pension Arrangements. Further information will be given by X. SEGESSER FAADEtT, Proprietor. do MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mays RHEINFAL.L. NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUS&N. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Pbopbietor, Mr. WEGENSTE1N. THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to English visitors as one of the best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged, and is now a splendid first-rate establishment. The SCHWEIZERHOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and Burronnded by a fine park and garden. The position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance of above 180 miles— a panoramii view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing. Prices moderate. Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at fTeuhausen and Schaffhausen. RIGI. HOTEL AND PENSION EIGHI-SOHEIDEOK. Terminus Station of the Rigi Kaltbad-Scheideek Railway. Excellently suited for Tourists and -Pensioners. View on the Alps as beautiful as at Rigi-Kulm. MODERATE CHARGES. LIBERAL TREATMENT. By a stay of not less than four days, arrangement by pension can be made at 8 to 12 franc - per day per person. For further information apply to the Proprietors, HAUSER & STIERLIN. ' NJB. — Tourists having Tickets from Vitznau to Rigi-Kulm can interrupt the journey at Rigi Kaltbad, take advantage of the beautiful Excursion to Scheideck and back, and then continue the journey to Kulm by a following Train. EVERY TRAVELLER'S COMPANION. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. DIALOGUES -QUESTIONS -VOCABULARIES. IN ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN. Prepared expressly for English Travellers Abroad, and Foreigners Visiting England. Fifteenth Edition. Fcap. 3s. 6d. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. ROME. HOTEL ^MINERVA. rrHIS large Establishment, whose direction has lately been *- takem up again by the Proprietor, M. Joseph Sauve, haa been considerably ameliorated both as regards the perfect service and the most elaborate comfort. Large Apartments as well as small, and Eooms for Parties with more modest tastes, both very oarefully furnished, are to be found here. Its position is one of the most advantageous. It .is situated in the very centre of the Town, and close to the most remarkable Monuments, the Post and Telegraph Offices, the House of Parliament, and the Senate. The Ladies' Drawing Room, the Smoking Room, and Reading Rooms, where the principal Newspapers of every country are to be found, and the Bathing Rooms, are always carefully warmed. TWO OMNIBUSES BELONGING TO THE HOTEL MEET EVERY TRAIN. THE WAITERS AND CHAMBERMAIDS SPEAK ALL THE PRINCIPAL LANGUAGES. VERY MODERATE TERMS. ~ ROME. QRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ET DES ILES BRITANNIQUES. VJ This Firsl-Class Establishment possesses tbe advantage of a beautiful Garden, and is situated near the English and American Churches; the * principal Apartments face the South, the entire Hotel being wanned by two caloriferes, and tbe whole arrangements and moderate prices give universal satisfaction. MAZZERI, Proprietor. ROTTERDAM. H. A. KRAMERS & SON, IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN BOOKS. Mr. Murray's 'Handbooks for Travellers,' Bradshaw's Monthly Eailway Guides, Baedeker's ' Reisehandbucher,' and Hendschel's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. Books in all Languages imported every day, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 26, GELDERSCHE RAPE, 26. ROTTERDAM. VICTORIA HOTEL.— This Hotel, opened in May, 1869, and built V expreBBly for an English Hotel, is sitnated in the centre of the Town (West End), on the most fashion able Promenade of Rotterdam, just opposite the Landing-place of all the Steamers to and from England. The Booms spacious and airy, are elegantly Furnished, and English Travellers will find here every desirable comfort, combined with the most civil Attendance and moderate Charges. Table d'Hote. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. English, French, and German spoken. Mr. J. TYSSEN will spare no pains to deserve the patronage of English Travellers. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE, 97-99, Rue des Cannes. Entirely and carefully reorganised by the new Proprietor. This First-Class Hotel is now a curiosity more in the Town, and situated in central position near the Public Buildings and Theatres, specially recommended to Families visiting the Normandy Coasts. Large Courtyard and Garden, where 'Breakfast, Luncheons, and Dinners are served iu the Summer. Ladies' Eoom, Smoking Eoom, Table d'hote at 6 o'clock. First-Class Restaurant. E. BARBIER, Proprietor. 62 "" MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS. SPLENDIDLY SITUATED ON THE QUAI DE PARIS, ¦ ¦ ' ' COMMANDING PICTURESQUE VIEWS OF THE SEINE AND MOUNTAINS. SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES AND SINGLE TRAVELLERS. Conversation Saloon. Smoking Room. TABLE D'HOTE. SERVICE A LA CARTE. INTERPRETER. RECOMMENDED. GUENARD BATAILLARD, Proprietor. ROYAT-LES-BAINS. GRAND HOTEL. SEEVANT, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. ENGLISH SPOKEN. Opened from the First of May till the end of October. ROYAT-LES-BAINS (Puy de Dome). SPLENDID AND CONTINENTAL HOTEL, OPEN FROM the 15tt of MAY to the 1st cf OCTOBER. CHABASSIERE, Proprietor ' )' O- .• AND PBOPEIBTOB ALSO OF THE GRAND HOTEL CALIFQRNIE, AT CANNES. (ALPES IVIARITIMES.) 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63 ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE (On the Quay). Mr. AUGUSTE MONNIER, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. LfiON BOUCHARD. THIS HOTEL is distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c. ; and the new Pro prietor has entirely re-fitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoking-Eoom. It Is situated on ths Quay facing the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and the magnificent Scenery encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will find at this first-rate Establishment every comfort — airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments and Wines of the best quality at moderate Prices. An excellent Table d'H6te at Sis o'clock. Restaurant a la carte. Mr. Monnier speaks English, and has English Servants. An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. Monnier. SAN DOWN (Isle of Wight). ROYAL PIER HOTEL. rpHIS favourite Hotel has been reoently opened and fitted complete by -*- MAPLE & CO. Charmingly situated. A few yards;from the entrance to the Pier, and the celebrated Sands, with excellent Bathing Accommodation. It is within an easy walk of the newly-discovered Roman Villa. Table d'H6te. Omnibuses meet all Trains. C. O. WILKHBrSOM", Manager. SANDOWN HOTEL, SANDOWN BAY, ISLE OP WIGHT. WALTER MEW, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Billiard Room, Croquet and Tennis Lawn. Railway from Ryde to Sandoum, time 15 minutes. SHANKLIN. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOB SURREY, HANTS, AND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 10s. John Mtjbkay, Albemarle Street. SAN REMO, ITALY. WEST -END HOTEL. ALAEGE Building, expressly built for an Hotel, with, all the latest appliances to insure perfection in sanitary arrangements its Closets being on the most approved English principle. Beautifully situated at the West End of the Town, » good distance from the Sea, commanding an extensive "View of the Bay. Lift. Beading, Billiard, and Smoking Saloons. Ladies' Drawing Boom. English and Foreign News papers. Excellent Cuisine, and choice Wines. Great Cleanliness. Omnibus of the Hotel meets all Trains. The old West-End Hotel, adjoin ing, built by an English lady for her own residence, is under the same Management, and will form an excellent residence for Families desiring quietness and privacy, with the convenience of a large Hotel. Special arrangements for a lengthened sojourn. ONLY HOUSE WITH LIFT. All Languages spoken. Proprietor, EOBERT WULPING. 84 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, SALISBURY. THE WHITE HART HOTEL. Nearly Opposite the Cathedral. The largest J- and principal Hotel in the City.— This old established first-class Hotel contains every accommodation for Families and Tonrists. A Ladies' Coffee Room, Billiard and Smoking Eooms, and spacious Coffee,Boom for Gentlemen. Table d'H6te daily during the season from 6 to 8.30 p.m. at separate tables. Carnages and Horses on hire for Stonebenge and other places of interest. , Excellent Stabling, Loose Boxes, &c. Tariff on application to H. T. BOWES, Managee, Posting Master to Her Majesty. SAN REMO. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. FIEST-CLASS HOUSE, with alarge Garden. Entirely newly-furnished by the new Proprietor. COLOMBO PANICCI. SAN SEBASTIAN. HOTEL INGLES. Facing the Sea and the Pyrenees. French Cooking, Music and Reading Rooms. English Newspapers. English Spoken. SAN SEBASTIAN. Murray's Handbook for Spain. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 20s. Johk Mukeay, Albemarle Street. SALZBOURG. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. OPPOSITE the Station. Eirst-Class Hotel, surrounded by a large Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. PENSION. . Moderate Charges. G. JUNG, Proprietor. SCHWALBACH. HOTEL ALLEE-SAAL. (HOTEL DE LA PROMENADE.) D6pendance: VILLA GREBERT. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Under the Patronage of H.R.H. the Prince and Princess of Wales. FERD. GREBERT, SONS, Proprietors. SCHWALBACH. THE DUKE OF NASSAU HOTEL. This First-Class Hotel, with private Hotel adjoining, is beautifully situated in the healthiest and best part of the town, facing the Public Promenades, and in close proximity to the Royal Baihs, the New Curhouse, the Drinking Hall, and the English Church. It contains a good number of elegantly-furnished Apartments and Saloons for families and single gentlemen, and combines comfort with Moderate Charges. This Hotel is patronised by many distinguished families of England and the Continent. Favour able " Pension " arrangements are made at the end of the Season. Good Trout Fishing in the Wisper Stream. A comfortable Omnibus belonging to the Hotel starts from Schwalbacu to Wiesbaden at eight o'clock in the morning, and leaves Wiesbaden at five o'clock in the afternoon, opposite the Railway Station, from the Taunus Hotel. Cafe Restaurant Paulinen- berg, Whey and Milk Establishment, ten minutes' walk from the Nassau Hotel with which there is communication by Telephone, delightfully situated, amidst a beautiful park with splendid view. T. c. "WILHELMY, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. SPA. — * GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE. F. LEYH, Proprietor. PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM, And maintains a high reputation among the Aristocracy of Europe. SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN, LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATHS. A djoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 03HVIBTTS ATC EACH . ARRIVAJL.. SPA. HOTEL DES PAYS-BAS. Vve. I. DE COCK, Proprietress. FIRST-OLASS. Exceptional situation at the top of the Town. Large Garden opposite tbe Pouhon, close to the Casino and Baths. Omnibus at the Station. Much recommended. SPA. GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid Situation. Fine Apartments. Drawing and Reading Room. Every Comfort. Spacious and handsome alterations have been lately made. Omnibus of the Hotel at the Arrival of every Train. STRASBURG. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. NEWLY EESTORED, and Furnished with every modern comfort by its new Proprietor, Ch. Mathis. Opposite the Railway Station. Adjoining the Post aDd Telegraph Office. Near the Cathedral. Large Lining, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. 80 Sitting and Bed Rooms. 66 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN GRAND HOTEL. THIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City, between Charles the Xllth's Square and the National Museum, on one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and the Baltic. The Royal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal Theatres are in close proximity. The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views of the City. The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience, and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most com fortable Hotels on the Continent. The Building contains Pour Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides Dining Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, a Billiard Room, a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Retiring Rooms, a Laundry, and other accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts. All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels. The Hotel Rydberg. Gtjstaf Adolf's Torg. rpHIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to Travel- -L lers. It contains One Hundred aud Fifty Sleeping Apartments. The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer every advantage to strangers visiting the Swedish Capital. R. CADIER, Proprietor of the Grand Hdtel and the Hotel Rydberg. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 67 T H U N (Switzerland). GEAND HOTEL DE THOUNE (THUNEEHOF), Proprietor, Ch. STAEHLE, formerlyltanager at the Hotel Bauer au lac, Zurioh. "CUBST-CLASS HOTEL, the largest and most comfortable in the place, J- beautifully situated at the Lake, with a splendid view of the Alps, and surrounded by a large Garden, in which a Concert of the Kur music takes place every day. There is also a Lift. PRICES ARE FIXED UP IN EACH ROOM. Pension, the whole Season by staying Five Days. THUN, SWITZERLAND. FALCON HOTEL. CENTRAL ON THE AAR. GOOD SITUATION, COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY HOTEL. OPEN ALL THE TEAR. VENTNOR. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK For SURREY", HANTS, and the ISLE OF WIGHT. Post 8vo. 10s. John Murray, Albemarle Street. GEAND HOTEL DU MIDI. Patronised by the Due d'Aumale and Duke of Norfolk. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE DU CAP IT OLE. FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, Offering the same comforts as the largest hotels in France. Frequented by the highest Class of English and American Travellers. Restaurant and Table d'H6te. BUG. POTJRQUIER, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL SOUVILLE (Place du Capitole). KEPT by M. DARDIGNAC, Restaurateur. A First-class House, one of the best-situated in the Town, close to the Grand Theatre, Post and Telegraph Office. Is to be recom mended from its good Attendance. Most comfortable Apartments, Salon?, and Bedrooms. Restaurant at fixed Prices, or a la carte. Private Service for Families Baths and Private Carriages in the Hotel. Carriages and Omnibus enter the Courtyard of the Hotel. HOTEL DE LA BOULE D'OE. BUE BOYALE. A FIBST-CLASS HOUSE. One of the best situated in the Town. -" Apartments, Salons, and Private Service for Families. EDglish Spoken. TOURS. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE. Part I. Normandy, Brittany, Pyrenees, &c. Post 8yo. Is. 6d. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. TOURS. HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS. Pleasantly Situated. Has a European Reputation. Specially arranged for Families. English Spoken. __ 68 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, TURIN. GRAND HOTEL DE L'EOROPE. PEOPBIBTOES— Messrs. BOBGO and GAGLIAKDI. Situated Place de OliSiteaix, opposite the I£i«g-'s Palace. (Five minutes front the Railway Station.) HIS unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel recommends itself to T the notice of English travellers. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 O'CLOCK. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. Interpreters speaking all the European Languages. Cliarges Moderate. The Times Newspaper. An Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every Train. ~ VALENCIA (SPAIN)- HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE MADRID. THIS First-rate Establishment, situated on the Villanozu Square,No. 5, has beeii entirely ¦*¦ re-furniahed with every modem comfort aud luxury, and now offers the most desirable residence to Eugliah Travellers visiting thia Fine Climate. Suites of Apaitments tor Families fiom the lowest prices to GO fr. a day. Excellent Cuisine and good Attendance. Foreign Newspapers. English, French, and Italian spoken. Baths, Ac. The Hotel ia close hy the Poat Office, the Theatres, and the beat Promenades. Board and Lodging, with Light and Service included, 30 flealu per day for Single Travellers ; hut with Sitting Rooinsior Families, from 60, 80, to 100 Heals per day. Kept by Mr. CAliLuS CANTO V A d'H¥OS. VARESE. (Lombardy.) GRAND HOTEL VARESE. In direct communication by Kail with MILAN, LAKE MAGGCORE, COMO, and LUGANO. FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, surrounded with an extensive GARDEN uuil PARK, situated in the best and healthiest part of Lombardy, 1319 feet above Ihe Sta, commanding a most extensive view of the Alps, Monte Rosa Chains, and containing £500 Rooms nii'-i Ssaloonss. PENSION. Baths on each floor. English Church. Dr. Dadbenf, M.U., attached to the Hotel. P. MABIUI, Manager. VERONA. GRAND HOTEL DE LONDEES. FORMEHLY HOTEL DE LA TOUR DE LONDRES. A. CEliESA, New Proprietor. fllHE largest and rlneet Hotel in Verona, near the Homan Amphitheatre. English Church Sen ices hi the J. Hotel, Moat central portion. Great comfort. All Languages spoken. Oninihua to aud from the Stations. Highly lecuinmeuded. G-. CA.VESTRI, Mannacr. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 69 V E V E Y. HOTEL MONNET AND TEOIS COUEONNES, F. SCHOTT. GRAND HOTEL DE YEVEY, A. HIRSCHY. HTHESE two First-Class Houses are beautifully situated on the Lake of Geneva, with a magnificent view from the Gardens in front of the Hotel. GREAT COMFORT AND CLEANLINESS. ARRANGEMENTS MADE DURING THE "WINTER "EN PENSION." VIENNA. KARNTHNERRING No. 9, SITUATED on the most elegant and frequented Square of the City. Three hundred rooms, from 1 florin upwards. Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Beautiful Dining Saloon, Eestaurant Saloons, Conversation, Smoking, and Eeading Eooms. BATHS & TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. Lifts for Communication with each Storey. DINNERS & SUPPERS A LA CARTE. TABLE D'HOTE. OM1NIBTJSES AT THE RAILWAY STATIONS. 70 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VICHY, GRAND HOTEL DU PARC. THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. FIKST-CLASS HOT Springs, and Casino. AEIEST-OLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, Spi PRIVATE P AV I LI ON FOR FAMILIES. GERMOT, Proprietor. VIENNA. J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTUBEBS, Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria, No. 13, KAENTHNEESTEASSE. The most extensive Establishment for Bohemian Crystal, Fancy Glass, and Chandeliers. Every variety of Gloss for Household use, Ornament, and in Art Workmanship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-Glasses. Chandeliers, Candelabras, in Crystal and Bronze. LARGE SHOW-ROOMS TJPSTAIR8. The prices are fixed, and are very moderate. — English is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & E. M'Cbaoken, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London, will transmit all orders with the greatest care and attention. VtNTNOR (Isle of Wight). Rayner's Temperance Commercial HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE, 11 & 19, VICTORIA STREET. " A home away from a home." Spacious Coffee Room. Sets of Rooms en suite. Tebms Modebate. VIENNA. HOTEL DE LA COUK D'ATJTEICHE. (OSTERREICH HOF.) FIRST-CLASS Hotel. Moderate Charges. Bath. Englit-h Newspapers. English spoken. J. HA.NISCH, Proprietor. WIESBADEN. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL AND BATHS. THIS House has lately undergone extensive improvements, rendering it ¦*¦ equal 10 any First-class Hotel. It enjoys tbe finest position facing the Kurr-aal ami the Park Ladies' Reading, Billiard, and Smukin,' Kooms. Charges strictly Moderate. Table d-Hote, &c. W. ZAIS, Proprietor. 1881. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71 WIESBADEN. GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN AND BATH. FIEST-CLASS New House, exceedingly well situated, just opposite the Eailway Station, the Post and Telegraphic direction, on the Promenades, combining comfort with Moderate Charges. Music and Eeading Saloons. Eooms from 2 mks. 50 pf. per day, inclusive of Candles and Service. In Winter the whole Building and Winter Gardens are well warmed. The Omnibus for Schwalbach and Schlangenbad starts from near the Hotel. Large stock of the best Rhine and Moselle Wines for wholesale. Railway Tickets for all the Towns on the Continent are issued in the Hotel. WIESBADEN.-ROSE HOTEL AND BATH HOUSE. SPLENDID First-Class Establishment close to the Cursaal, opposite the Trinknalle, and adjoining the Promenade. No other Hotel except this is surrounded by a Garden ot" its own, or supplied with Baths direct iTora the hot sprtogs (Kochbrunnen). Quiet and airy situation, with English comfort and reasonable Charges. Drawing. Eeading, and Smoking Kooms, and Billiard Room, containing a full-sized Billiard Table. Table d'Hote at One aud Five o'clock. WILDBAD. HOTEL KLUMPP, Formerly HOTEL DE L'OUES. Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. THIS First-class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed-rooms, with a separate Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive aDd elegant Dining Room ; an artificial Garden over the river ; is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the New Colonnade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. Break fasts and Suppers a la carte. Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibu-es of the Hotel to and from each Train. Elevators to every floor. Fine Private Carriages when requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. ZARAGOZA, SPAIN. Grand Hotel de I'Europe. Excellent Cooking and Moderatt Charges. VIUDA DE ZOPPETTI Y HIJOS, Proprietors. ZARAGOZA, SPAIN. Duncan's English in Spain; cr, The Story of the War of Succession, 1834 and 1840. Compiled from the Re ports of the British Commissioners, With Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Stn el. 72 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1881. ESTABLISHED 1883. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEP&T, AND |) assort Eixb Couriers' ^nqr, LEE & CARTER, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON ¦ (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). KNAPSACKS STIFF OK LIMP. PORTMANTEAUX OF ALL PATTERNS. BAGS OF ALL KINDS. Intending Tourists are respectfulhj invited to visit this Establishment before making purchases for their journey. AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM. LISTS GRATIS. COURIERS, DRAGOMEN, AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS of good character and experience, speaking European and Eastern Languages, can be engaged at the above Establishment. Also Passports and Visas obtained. Passports mounted on Linen and put in Cases, with Name printed outside. 440, WEST STRAND. London : Printed by Willtam Clowes and ioxs, Lin it. d, Stamford Street and Ch aims t "roe's. MURRAY'S ENGLISH HANDB00KS-(e