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HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

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SUSSEX.

FOUHTH EDITION.

WITH MAP AND PLAN.

LONDON:
JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE LSTEEET.
1877.
Ihe right qf Translation is reserved.

FEINTED 21 WILLIAM CLOWES AHD SONS, STAMFORD STBIET,
AND CHASING C80SS.

PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION.

The united Handbook of Kent and Sussex, originally intended
chiefly for travellers and strangers, Las been found by natives
and residents in those Counties so useful a summary of Local
information that a desire has been expressed to obtain them
separately. Considering the greater convenience of price and
portability consequent on this division, the publisher has
complied with the suggestion ; and the two Handbooks, issued
singly, will in future serve as condensed County Histories as
well as Local Guides.
In this, as in former Editions, pains have been taken to
bring up the information to the time of publication, by careful
revision : nevertheless, owing to the rapidity of change in this
country, errors and omissions may occur ; and those who detect
any are respectfully requested to send notice of the same to the
Publisher, Mr. Murray, 50, Albemarle Street.

a 2

CONTENTS.

Introduction

PAGE T

EOUTES.

ROUTE PAGE
15 London to St. Leonard's and
Hastings, by Tunhridge
Wells and Battle  1
16 Hastings to Ashford, by Wiid-
•chelsea, Rye, and Appledore . . 20
17 London to Brighton, by Croy
don and. Redhill Junction
[ Worth, Hurstpierpoint] . . 27
8 London to Lewes, Newhaven,
and Seaford . . ., .. .. 39
19 Tunbridge Wells to Lewes, by
Buxted and Uckfield .. .. 53
20 London to EastBourne and Hast
ings, by Lewes and Pevensey.
[Beachy Head]  56
21 Brighton to Portsmouth, by
Shoreham, Worthing [Arun
del], and Chichester [Box-

EOUTE PAGE
grove, Goodwood, Bignor,
Bosharn]  69
21 London to Tunbridge Wells, by
Three Bridges, East Grinstead,
Withyham, and Groombridge 101
22 A Tunbridge Wells to Hastings,
by Frant [May field] .. ..103
23 London to Petworth and. Mid-
hurst, by Horsham .. .. 109
24 Horsham to Arundel and Chi
chester, by Pulborough and
Ford Junction  120
25 London to Shoreham and
Brighton, by Epsom, Dork
ing, Horsham, Henfield, and
Steyning  131
26 Godalming to Chichester, by
Petworth and Midhurst .. 137

Index

143

ILLUSTKATIONS. PAGE
Ground-plan of Chichester Cathedral .. .. 79
Map of Kent and Susses  at the end.

INTRODUCTION.

Extent and History . .
Antiquities 
Products and Manufactures

Page v
vii ix

Page
Geolog? and Traveller's
"View  xiii
Skeleton Tours  xxi

Extent and Histoet.
Sussex, the ancient kingdom of the " South Saxons," contains 1464
square miles, or 936,211 acres. It extends in its greatest width 73 m.
(between Kent and Hampshire), and 27 m. in its extreme length (from
Tunbridge Wells to Beachy Head). At the census of 1871 it con
tained a population of 199,532 males, and 217,924 females ; total,
417,456 ; being an increase of 53,721, or 15 per cent., since 1861.
The divisions of the county are strongly marked hy nature. The
greater part of East Sussex is covered by a wide range of the Hastings
sand, rising at the centre to a considerable elevation known as the
" Forest Ridge." The scenery of all this district is very picturesque,
and quite distinct from that offered hy the other natural divisions of
the county — the "Weald of Sussex, which stretches in a long line from
Pevensey Bay to the hills beyond Petworth ;— the South Downs, which
extend 53 m. from Beachy Head to the Hampshire border ; — and the
level coast district, stretching away from Brighton, beyond Chichester.
Between the chalk of the South Downs and the Weald the usual belts
of gault and lower greensand occur. Each of these districts has its own
peculiar scenery and features, and each will amply repay examination.
The South Downs, and the Forest Bidge, especially, are exceeded in
beauty and interest by few parts of England.
TBe greater part of the present county of Sussex — probably the
whole of it, with the exception of the South Downs and the country
between them and the sea — was anciently covered with a thick forest,
the famous Andredes- weald, or " Andredslea," signifying, according to
Dr. Guest, the " uninhabited district " (an, the Celtic negative particle,
and tred, a dwelling). One great Roman road, the "Stane Street,"
ran from Chichester to London, and penetrated this wooded region in
a north-easterly direction. Another, and perhaps a more ancient road,
stretched along nearer the coast, and connected the great fortress of
Anderida (Pevensey) with Regnum (Chichester) and Portus .Magnus
(Porchester). Anderida, whose venerable walls yet remain, was one
of the fortresses for the defence of the S. coast, placed under the

vi Extent and History. Introd.
control of the Count of the Saxon Shore. Regnum, the present Chi
chester, was a city of considerable size and importance, and apparently
the chief town of the Regni, whose chief, Cogidubnus, is referred to in
the ' Agricola ' of Tacitus as one of those British princes who maintained
a constant fidelity to Rome. A remarkable inscription, discovered in
Chichester, and now preserved at Goodwood (Rte. 21), alludes to
Cogidubnus as having embellished his native city with public build
ings, and also, it has been suggested, connects Regnum in a very
interesting manner with the history of the earliest Christian converts.
(See Chichester, Rte. 21).
The first Teutonic settlement on this coast took place, according to
the Saxon Chronicle, in 477, when iEUa and his three sons landed at
Cymens-ora, probably Kynor, south of Chichester (Rte. 21). They
took possession of Regnum and destroyed Anderida, establishing them
selves over the whole line of coast as the " South Sexe," or South Saxons
=Sussex. The numerous terminations in "ing" which occur through
out the county and perhaps indicate the sites of primitive settlements
(see Poling, Rte. 21) seem to prove that at an early period the district
became populous. It was, however, cut off from much intercourse
with the other Saxon kingdoms by the great wood of Anderida, and by
the marshes which extended between it and Kent ; and it was not
until about a.d. 680 that Christianity was first introduced among the
South Saxons by Wilfrid of York, who had been shipwrecked on the
coast. For the singular condition of the district at that time, as de
scribed by Bede, see Selsey, Rte. 21.
The South Saxon kingdom shared the fate of the others, and was
finally absorbed in that of Wessex. It formed one of the great
earldoms possessed by Harold and the house of Godwin, and it was on
its coast that the Conqueror landed, and within its limits that the
great battle was fought in which the Anglo-Saxon monarchy perished.
(For ample details, see Pevensey, Rte. 20 ; and Battle Abbey, Rte. 15.)
The entire county was fearfully ravaged ; and it is probable that the
territorial divisions of Sussex, whose aspect differs altogether from that
which prevails in other counties, were the immediate result of the con
quest. The " hundreds " and " lathes or lastes" which exist elsewhere,
arose, we may be tolerably certain, from two main causes — " the first,
the natural dispersion of the tribes and races over the country ; and the
other, the consolidation of various tracts or townships under one autho
rity or lord ; but nowhere is any trace of system apparent to the eye
except in Sussex, where we find a territorial division bearing a name
peculiar to the county, and showing an evident scheme of partition.
The Normans were a hard people ; whenever they conquered, and did
conquer outright, they went to work like plunderers, dividing the
country by measurement-^-by the rope, as it was termed — measuring
out the land amongst themselves, a process which singularly marks
the original violence of their character, for in such allotments they
neglected all the natural relations which might previously exist amongst
the nations whom they conquered. Now this is the process they

Sussex. Antiquities. vii
carried into effect in Sussex, which is divided into six portions, ex
tending right down from the northern border of the county, and each
having a frontage towards the sea ; and each of these rapes (or hreppar,
as they are termed in Icelandic) has within it some one castle, or
other important station for defence and protection. In Domesday
each rape appears under a military commander. All the original
Anglo-Saxon divisions are noticed in the Anglo-Saxon laws, and
possessed an Anglo-Saxon tribunal. The rape is not noticed in any
Anglo-Saxon law, and does not possess any Anglo-Saxon tribunal. We
therefore have good reason to conjecture that this portion of England
more particularly occupied the attention of the wise and wary general,
and that he treated Sussex entirely as a conquered territory." — Sir F.
Palgrave. East Sussex contains the rapes of Hastings, Pevensey, and
Lewes ; West Sussex those of Bramber, Arundel, and Chichester,
reckoning in each case from E. towards W.. The castles in each of
these rapes were either on, or not far from, the coast ; and each rape
formed what has been called "a high road to Normandy," each having
an available harbour at its southern extremity.
After the Conquest the great event in the history of Sussex is the
battle of Lewes, fought May 13, 1264, between Henry III. and the
barons under Simon de Montfort. A full notice of this battle, an im
portant landmark in the history of English liberties, will be found in
Rte. 18, Lewes. Antiquities.
Sussex possesses no remarkable antiquities of the British period with
the exception of the large intrenchments that crown some of the
highest points of the South Downs, and the date even of these is
uncertain. The most important are Cissbury, near Findon (Rte. 21) ;
Chanctonhury, near Steyning (Rte. 24); Whitehawk Hill, above
Brighton, and the Devil's Dyke, near Poynings (Rte. 17) ; and
Mount Caburn, near Lewes (Rte. 18). A chain of camps, some of
which in their present form are unquestionably Roman, may he traced
along the whole line of the South Downs, generally on the hills natur
ally best fitted for defence, and commanding the country on both
sides, toward the Weald and the sea. The downs are everywhere
dotted with barrows, many of which are British.
The Soman relics in Sussex are very interesting and important.
Beside the inscriptions preserved at Goodwood, and the few relics of
ancient Regnum at Chichester, the walls of Anderida still remain
at Pevensey (Rte. 20), and will repay careful examination ; whilst the
medieeval castle within their area is scarcely less attractive to the
archasologist. The great Roman treasure of the county, however, is
the villa at Bignor (Rte. 21), with its large and very striking pave
ments. This should on no account be left unvisited, since it ranks
among the most important remains of its class in Britain. It stood on
the ancient Stane Street, the line of Roman road which ran from

viii Antiquities. * Introd.
Regnum (Chichester) to London ; and about 3 m. beyond it, in the
parish of Pulborough, are the remains of a Roman station. Tillas
(but of far less importance) have also been found at Angmering, Lancing,
Seaford, East Bourne, and Bognor, on the coast, and at Hurstpierpoint.
Sussex is far richer in its churches and ecclesiastical architecture than
is generally supposed. The following list contains the most interesting
and instructive. The greater part of those named deserve very careful
attention. Saxon. — Rte. 17 : Worth — perhaps affording the most complete
ground-plan of a Saxon church which remains. It exhibits much
external structural decoration in narrow strips of plain masonry. The
chancel and transeptal arches are without doubt Saxon. Rte. 20 :
Jevington ; the tower has been called Saxon, and at all events deserves
notice ; but it has been much modernised, and in a measure spoilt.
Rte. 21 : Sompting ; Bosham.
Nornum, — Rte. 18 : Newhaven ; Bishopstone (partly). Rte. 21 :
Old and New Shoreham, both very interesting; Chichester Cathedral
(nave). Rte. 24 : Amberley ; Steyning (important).
Transition. — Rte. 15 : Battle (parts). Rte. 16 : Rye ; Icklesham.
Rte. 18 : Bishopstone (parts). Rte. 20 : East Bourne. Rte. 21 : New
Shoreham (parts) ; Broadwater (very rich) ; Chichester Cathedral (parts) ;
Boxgrove (parts). Rte. 24 : Steyning (parts). The most advanced spe
cimen of this period is afforded by Bp. Seffrid II.'s work in Chichester
Cathedral. The two easternmost compartments of the choir, begun
1186, completed 1199, exhibit very strikingly the mixture of the two
styles. Early English. — Sussex, especially the western division, is said to
possess more unaltered examples of this period than any other Enghsh
county. Rte. 16 : Rye (parts). Rte. 17 : Ditchling. Rte. 21 :
New Shoreham (parts); West Tarring; Climping (very good and
curious) ; Bosham (parts) ; Appledram ; Chichester Cathedral (parts) ;
Boxgrove (parts). Rte. 23 : Wisborough Green. Of these, West
Tarring, Climping, Appledram, and Wisborough Green, remain almost
entirely as when first constructed, in the 13th century.
Decorated (Geometrical, 1245 to 1315).— Rte. 16 : St. Thomas's,
Winchelsea ; very fine and interesting. Rte. 19 : Buxted (chancel).
Rte. 20 : Pevensey. Rte. 21 : Chichester Cathedral (Lady Chapel) ;
Chichester, Priory Chapel, now the Guildhall ; Chapel of St. Mary's
Hospital. Decorated (Curvilinear, 1315 to 1360). — Rte. 15 : Etchingham ;
very good. Rte. 16 : Monuments in St. Thomas's Church, Win
chelsea, ranking " among the noblest conceptions of this period in the
kingdom." Rte. 20 : Alfriston. The churches of Etchingham (Rte. 15)
and Alfriston, both in the form of a Greek cross, are nearly throughout
of this time, and well deserve examination.
Perpendicular (1360 to 1550). — There are few churches of this time
in Sussex. The best are, — Rte. 15 : Mayfield. Rte. 17 : Poynings.
Rte. 23 : Pulborough. Rte. 24 : Arundel.

Sussex. Products and Manufactures. ix
Of other ecclesiastical remains the most important in Sussex are, —
Rte. 15 : the ruins of Bayham Abbey (a house of Premonstratensian
Canons), on the borders of Kent— these are E.E. and Dec, and will
amply repay a visit ; Battle Abbey, chiefly E. E., and of the highest
historical interest. Rte. 18 : some fragments of the Cluniac Priory of
St. Pancras, at Lewes. Rte. 20 : portions of the Benedictine Priory
at Wilmington, and (more important) of the Augustinian Priory at
Michelham. (These last are of E. E. character.) At Boxgrove (Rte.
21) are some remains of the Benedictine priory adjoining the church ;
and at Shulhrede (Rte. 26), among the scanty ruins of the Augustinian
priory, is a chamber containing some curious wall paintings.
Sussex contains some important specimens of military architecture.
Among them are, — Rte. 15 : Hastings Castle, partly Norm., but more
interesting from its site than from its existing remains ; Bodiam, 14th
centy., small, but picturesque and perfect. Rte. 18 : Lewes Castle, of
Edwardian character, with some Norm, traces, and very interesting.
Rte. 20 : Pevensey, principally dating from the end of the 13th centy.,
— a grand mediaeval ruin in the area of a Roman town, the walls of
which remain; Herstmonceux, a brick building of the reign of Hen. VI.,
picturesque and striking. Rte. 21 : the Norm, keep of Arundel Castle,
very fine, and commanding a noble view. Rte. 24 : a Norm, fragment
of Bramber Castle. Rte. 25 : a Norm, fragment of Knepp Castle.'
Among the specimens of domestic architecture the archseologist should
notice, — Rte. 15 : an E. E. manor-house at Crowhurst, near Hastings ;
and the remains of the archiepiscopal palace at Mayfield — the hall is
ofthe 14th centy., very fine and interesting ; Brede, end of 15th centy.
Rte. 17 : Cuckfield Place, dating from the end of the 16th centy ;
Street, near Lewes, a fine old James I. mansion ; and Danny, near
Hurstpierpoint, one of the many Elizabethan houses which shelter
themselves under the northern slope of the South Downs. Rte. 18 :
at West Dean, about 3 m. from Seaford, is a parsonage-house of the 14th
¦centy., not unworthy of a visit. Rte. 24 : Parham, a fine Elizabethan
house, full of ancient treasures, must on no account be overlooked ;
and beyond it is Wiston (Rte. 25), also Elizabethan, but of earlier date.

Pboducts and Manufactures.
Sussex is now a purely agricultural county, and is rather behind
her neighbours in the application of modern science and improve
ments. Hops are grown to some extent in the eastern division ; and
the famous treed of South Down sheep (see Mount Caburn, Rte. 18)
has long since been extended throughout England. Sussex, however,
¦exercises at present very little influence either by her agriculture or
iher manufactures, although the time has been when the greater part
of the county was the " Birmingham " of England. Throughout
the 16th and 17th centuries the iron-works of Sussex were of the
highest importance, and the tourist will still find traces of them

x. Products and Manufactures. Introd.
scattered through the now solitary woodlands, chiefly of the eastern
division. A most valuable notice of the Sussex iron-works was in
serted by Mr. Lower in the ' Sussex Archseological Collections ' (vol. ii.),
and has since been reprinted by him in his ' Contributions to Literature,'
a volume, it should be added, which contains many papers of the
highest interest to the tourist in Sussex. The following account of
the aucient iron-works of the county has been chiefly extracted from
Mr. Lower's paper.
The strata which produce iron-ore lie on the central portion of the
Weald formation, in the sandstone beds called the Forest Ridge, and
by geologists the Hastings sand. The beds run in a N.W. direction,
from Hastings, by Ashburnham, Heathfield, Crowborough, Ashdown
Forest, Worth, Tilgate Forest, and St. Leonard's Forest — the country,
as has already been mentioned, formerly covered by the great wood of
Anderida. The highest point is Crowborough (804 ft.). " The iron was
here produced by vegetable and animal decomposition in the bed and
delta of a mighty river, which flowed through countries inhabited by
the iguanodon and other colossal reptiles." — Mantell. " It appears to
me that the ore in the Forest Ridge was the clay ironstone of the
' Wealden beds.' At the western extremity of the district it is thought
that the ferruginous sands of the lower greensand were used ; but in
the clay country of the Weald I have found sufficient evidence of the
exclusive use of a comparatively recent concretion, a kind of bog-iron,
frequently turned up by the plough, and called 'iron rag.' It is com
posed of clay, gravel, and about 25 or 30 per cent, of oxide of iron ;
and is a superficial and fragmentary formation, a recent 'pudding-
stone.' " — P. J. Martin.
The period at which the iron of Sussex was first worked is quite
unknown. The late Rev. Edward Turner of Maresfield, however, dis
covered Roman relics in a cinder-bed in his parish, indicating an exten
sive settlement. Many coins, mostly of Vespasian, Samian ware, and
other articles, have been found there ; and Roman coins have since been
discovered in cinder-beds at Sedlescombe, at Westfield, and at Fram-
field (the cinders are the scoriae of disused -furnaces, and are now turned
to account in repairing the roads). It is probable, however, that the
Britons were acquainted with these iron-fields before the Roman inva
sion. Cassar describes the use of iron rings for coin, and asserts that
iron was produced in the maritime districts, though in small quantity.
It is not clear, though it is probable, that the ore continued to be
worked by the Saxons. The iron-beds of Sussex are not mentioned in
Domesday, although some others are. The earliest record of the works
occurs in the murage grant made by Henry III. to the town of Lewes
in 1266. This empowers the inhabitants to raise tolls for the repair
of the walls after the battle. Every cart laden with iron from the
neighbouring Weald was to pay Id., and every horse-load \d. In 1290
payment was made to Master Henry of Lewes for iron-work for the
monument of Henry III. in Westminster Abbey ; and 3000 horse
shoes and 29,000 nails are recorded as having been provided by Peter

Sussex. Old Iron-Works. xi
de Walsham, Sheriff of Surrey and Sussex (13 Edw. IL), for the
expedition, against Scotland.
The oldest existing article of Sussex iron remains in Burwash Church,
and is a cast-iron monumental slab, with a cross, and an inscription in
relief. It is of the 14th centy., and probably unique. The inscription,
in Longobardic letters, is " Orate P. Annema Ihone Coline," Mistress
Joan Collins having possibly been an "iron-mistress" at Socknersh
furnace, in Brightling, where the Collins family was settled. Andirons
and other articles of the 15th centy. are still found in some numbers in
old mansions and farmhouses ; and work of the 16th centy. is com
paratively common. Some of the banded guns of wrought iron pre
served in the Tower of London, and dating from the reign of Henry VI.,
are of Sussex manufacture. A mortar, formerly remaining at Eridge
Green, in the parish of Frant, is said to have been the first made in
England ; and it is probable that most of the pieces employed in our
continental wars of the 14th and 15th centuries were manufactured in
Sussex. These hooped guns were superseded by cannon cast in an
entire piece, and bored, as at present. The first of these iron cannon
ever produced in England were cast at Buxted, by Ralf Hoge, or Hogge,
in 1543 (Rte. 19). At the commencement of his work he was
assisted by French and Flemish gunsmiths, but afterwards " made by
himself ordnance of cast iron of diverse sorts." The Hogge family
resided at Hog House, near Buxted Church; and over the door of
their ancient dwelling their rebus, a hog, with the date 1581, may
still he seen. The name seems to have become confounded with that
of Huggett ; since at Huggett's furnace, between Buxted and Mayfield,
the first iron ordnance is said hy tradition to have been cast : —
" Master Huggett and his man John,
They did cast the first can-non" —
runs the local rhyme. Many Huggetts still carry on the trade of
blacksmiths in East Sussex.
The trade increased rapidly during the 16th century, when many
Sussex families enriched by it assumed the rank of gentry. Nor was
it neglected by those of more ancient descent. Ashburnhams, Pel-
hams, Sidneys, and Howards engaged in it to the destruction of ancestral
oak and beech, and with all the apparent ardour of Birmingham and
Wolverhampton men in these times. Others of lesser rank eagerly
followed, the Fullers recognising the profit they gained in their motto,
" Carbone et forcipibus."
The destruction of woods throughout the county began to be noticed
early in the 16th century, and some provisions were made by Henry
VIII. and Elizabeth against its increase. But the waste still con
tinued. John Norden, in his 'Surveyor's Dialogue' (1607), asserts
that there were in Sussex nearly 140 hammers and furnaces for iron,
each of which consumed every 24 hours from 2 to 4 loads of charcoal.
But there was, he thought, some doubt whether the clearance was
altogether hurtful, since "people bred among woods are naturally more

xii Old Iron-Works. Introd.
stubborne and uncivil than in the champain countries." Drayton, in
his 'Polyolbion/ however, finds no consolation for the "stately wood
nymphs "of Sussex.
" These forests, as I say, the daughters of the "Weald
(That in their heavy breasts had long their griefs concealed).
Foreseeing their decay each hour so fast come on,
Under the axe's stroke, fetched many a grievous groan.
When as the anvil's weight, and hammer's dreadful sound,
Even rent the hollow woods and shook the queachy ground;
So that the trembling nymphs, oppressed through ghastly fear,
Ran madding to the downs, with loose disheveUed hair.
The sylvans that about the neighbouring woods did dwell,
Both in the tufty frith and in the mossy fell,
Forsook their gloomy bowers, and wandered far abroad,
Expelled their quiet seats, and place of their abode,
When labouring carts they saw to hold their daily trade,
Where they in summer wont to sport them in the shade.
' Could we,' say they, ' suppose that any would us cherish
Which suffer every day the holiest things to perish i
Or to our daily want to minister supply ?
These iron times breed none that mind posterity.
'Tis but in vain to tell what we before have been,
Or changes of the world that we in time have seen ;
When, not devising how to spend our wealth with waste,
We trf the savage swine let fall our larding mast.
But now, alas I ourselves we have not to sustain ;
Nor can our tops suffice to shield our roots from rain.
Jove's oak, the warlike ash, veined elm, the softer .beech,
Short hazel, maple plain, light asp, the bending wych,
Tough holly, and smooth birch, must altogether burn ;
What should the builder serve supplies the forger's turn.
When under public good base private gain takes hold,
And we, poor woful woods, to ruin lastly sold.' "
Although the Forest Ridge of Sussex still contains much timber, the
great woods of the Ashdown district entirely disappeared during the
period of the iron-works, and the South Downs themselves are at present
scarcely more bare and treeless.
The Sussex iron varied in quality. " Some," says Camden, <e was
more brittle than the Spanish iron ;" but that worked at the Ashburn-
ham forges excelled in quality of toughness, " and I have been assured
by smiths who have used it," said Mr. Lower, " that it was no wise
inferior to the Swedish metal, generally accounted the best in the
world." The casting of brass was extensively carried on, and bell-
founding successfully practised. (A new peal for East Bourne was cast
at Chiddingly in 1651 ; the bells of Hailsham were cast on Bell Bank,
a spot near the town.) Steel was manufactured at Warbleton (where
is a place called " Steelforgeland ") and at Robertsbridge. The site of
an iron-work was chosen near to beds of ore and to some available
water-power. Artificial ponds were generally constructed by dams of
earth against the stream, with an outlet of masonry for the supply
of water, by means of which the wheel connected with the machinery
of the hammer or the furnace was set in motion. Many of the finest
sheets of water in Sussex are thus due to the iron-works. Other
meadows, once converted into ponds and pools, have again been drained.
The trade reached its greatest extent in the 17th century ; and, as late

Sussex, Geology and Iraveller's View. xiii
as 1724, the iron manufacture was still considered the chief interest of
the county, but the decline had already commenced. The vast con
sumption of wood rendered the production of iron in this district more
expensive than in the localities where coal-mines and iron-ore are close
together ; but the works were continued long after the competition had
become hopeless. Famburst in West Sussex and Ashburnham in the
eastern division of the county were the last places at which they were
carried on. The Ashburnham furnace was in work at the beginning of
the present century (Rte. 22).
The principal existing remains of Sussex iron, beside the hooped
guns already mentioned, are — andirons and chimney-hacks, dating
from the 14th to the 17th centuries (the work of these varies in
character, but is sometimes very good and graceful), and monumental
slabs, dating from the early part of the 17th century to the time at
which the manufacture ceased altogether. Specimens occur in most of
the churches throughout the district. At Wadhurst are no less than
thirty examples, ranging between 1625 and 1799, all in very rude and
bold relief. Many of the persons commemorated were connected with
the trade in the parish. (A similar use of Scandinavian iron is made in
the Norwegian cathedral of Trondhjem.) One other relic ofthe Sussex
works .should here be mentioned: the balustrades round St. Paul's
Cathedral, weighing, together with 7 gates, about 200 tons, and partly
removed as recently as 1874, were cast in the parish of Lamberhurst, at
a cost of 11,202Z. Os. 6d. A furnace near Mayfield disputes this honour,
which really, however, belongs to " Gloucester Furnace " at Lamberhurst,
where the annual consumption of wood was 200,000 cords. Cannon cast
in this furnace are said to have been conveyed by smugglers for the use
of French privateers during the war with England. The discovery of this,
it is also asserted, caused the withdrawal of many Government contracts
and the consequent decline of the works at Lamberhurst. The iron
works belonging to the Crown and to all royalists were destroyed by Sir
William Waller after the taking of Chichester and Arundel in 1643.

Geology and Traveller's View.
The main geological divisions of Sussex have already been mentioned.
They belong to what is called the Valley of the Weald, and are con
nected with the history of the chalk formations, which must here be
briefly noticed. The reader should also be referred to Sir Charles
Lyell's Principles of Geology, book iv., ch. 21; to the geological
essays supplied by the late Dr. Mantell to Brayley's History of
Surrey, vol. i. p. 121, and vol. v. p. 51 ; and to a paper by Messrs.
Le Neve Foster and Topley (Quart. Journ. Oeol. Soe, Nov. 1865),
which gives an account of the various theories on the subject, and
argues for simple atmospheric denudation.
From the large expanse of chalk forming the central portion of
Hampshire two branches are sent off : one through the hills of Sur-

xiv Geology and Traveller's View. Introd.
rey and Kent to Dover, forming the ridge called the North Downs,
and the other through Sussex to the sea at Beachy Head, known as
the South Downs. The country between these branches constitutes the
Valley of the Weald, and contains four distinct formations. First, a
narrow band of gault, ranging quite round the valley at the foot of the
chalk ; next, a ring of lower greensand, a very complex group, con
sisting of grey, yellowish, and greenish sands, ferruginous sand and
sandstone, clay, chert, and silicious limestone ; thirdly, an inner ring
of Weald clay, composed for the most part of clay without intermixture
or calcareous matter, but sometimes including thin beds of sand and
shelly limestone ; and lastly, in the centre of the district a high ridge
formed of the Hastings sands, composed chiefly of sand, sandstone,
clay, and calcareous grit, passing into limestone. Each of the belts,
which are here called rings, terminates abruptly toward the sea in the
same manner as the chalk itself.
The chalk is, of course, the uppermost of all these formations, and in
order to account for the appearance and denudation of the different
beds intervening between the two branches of the North and South
Downs various hypotheses have been proposed. Sir Charles Lyell
conceives " that the chalk, together with many subjacent rocks,
may have remained undisturbed and in horizontal stratification until
after the commencement of the Eocene period. When at length
the chalk was upheaved and exposed to the action of the waves and
currents, it was rent and shattered, so that the subjacent secondary
strata were soon after exposed to denudation. The waste of all these
rocks, composed chiefly of sandstone and clay, supplied materials
for the tertiary sands and clays, while the chalk was the source of
flinty shingle and of the calcareous matter which we find inter
mixed with the Eocene clays." The tertiary sands and gravels occur
in the so-called basins of London and Hampshire, lying without
the Valley of the Weald north and south. " The tracts now separating
these basins" (the North and South Downs) "were those first ele
vated, and which contributed by their gradual decay to the production
of the newer strata. These last were accumulated in deep submarine
hollows, formed probably by the subsidence of certain parts of the
chalk, which sank while the adjoining tracts were rising." — Lyell, book
iv. ch. 20. Whether the chalk ever extended completely over the
country between the North and South Downs is, of course, uncertain.
Sir Charles Lyell, however, considers that it did so, and accounts for
the absence of all ruins of chalk on the central district by supposing
that "the rise of the land was very gradual, and the subterranean
movements for the most part of moderate intensity. During the last
century earthquakes have occasionally thrown down at once whole lines
of sea-cliffs for several miles continuously ; but if this had happened
repeatedly during the waste of the ancient escarpments of the chalk
now encircling the Weald, and if the shocks had been accompanied by
the sudden rise and conversion of large districts into land, the Weald
would have been covered with the ruins of those wasted rocks, and the

Sussex. Geology and Traveller's View. xv
sea could not possibly have had time to clear the whole away." The
gradual rise of the strata is thus explained : " Supposing the line of
the most violent movements to have coincided with what is now the
central ridge of the Weald Valley ; in that case, the first land which
emerged must have been situated where the Forest Ridge is now
placed. Here a number of reefs may have existed, and islands of
chalk, which may have been gradually devoured by the ocean in the
same manner as certain European isles have disappeared in modern
times. Suppose the ridge or dome first elevated to have been so
rent and shattered on its summit as to give more easy access to the
waves," until at length the masses thus shattered were removed.
"Two strips of land might then remain on each side of a channel, in
the same manner as the opposite coasts of France and England, com
posed of chalk, present ranges of white cliffs facing each other. A
powerful current might then rush, like that which now ebbs and flows
through the Straits of Dover, and might scoop out a channel in the
gault. We must bear in mind that the intermittent action of earth
quakes would accompany this denuding process, Assuring rocks,
throwing down cliffs, and bringing up, from time to time, new stratified
masses, and thus greatly accelerating the rate of waste. If the lower
bed of chalk on one side of the channel should be harder than on the
other, it would cause an under terrace resembling that presented by the
upper greensand in parts of Sussex and Hampshire. When at length
the gault was entirely swept away from the central parts of the channel,
the lower greensand would be laid bare, and portions of it would be
come land during the continuance of the upheaving earthquakes.
Meanwhile the chalk cliffs would recede farther from one another,
whereby four parallel strips of land, or perhaps rows of islands, would
be caused." The faces of the chalk range which front the Weald (the
north face of the South Downs and the south termination of the North
Downs) form steep declivities, called by geologists the " escarpment of
the chalk." This escarpment may be traced from the sea at Folke
stone along the south face of the North Downs to Guildford and the
neighbourhood of Petersfield, and thence to the termination of the
South Downs at Beachy Head. " In this precipice or steep slope the
strata are cufoff abruptly, and it is evident that they must originally
have extended farther." The view from the hill above Steyning in
Sussex displays very clearly the character of this escarpment. " The
geologist cannot fail to recognise in this view the exact likeness of a
sea-cliff; and if he turns and looks in an opposite direction, or eastward,
towards Beachy Head, he will see the same line of height prolonged.
Even those who are not accustomed to speculate on the former changes
which the surface has undergone may fancy the broad and level plain
to resemble the flat sands which were laid dry by the receding tide, and
the different projecting masses of chalk to be the headlands of a coast
which separated the different bays from each other." — Lyell. These
views were long the prevailing ones among geologists, but they are

xvi Geology and Traveller's View. Introd.
now giving way before the more simple explanation of Messrs. Le Neve
Foster and Topley.
The drainage of all this district " is not effected by watercourses
following the great valleys excavated out of the argillaceous strata, but
by valleys which run in a transverse direction, passing through the
chalk to the basin of the Thames on the one side, and to the English
Channel on the other. In this manner the chain of the North Downs
is broken by the rivers Wey, Mole, Darenth, Medway, and Stour ; the
South Downs by the Arun, Adur, Ouse, and Cuckmere." " These great
cross fractures of the chalk, which have become river channels, have
a remarkable correspondence on each side of the Valley of the Weald,
in several instances the gorges in the North and South Downs appearing
to he directly opposed to each other. Thus, for example, the defiles of
the Wey in the North Downs, and of the Arun in the South, seem
to coincide in direction ; and in like manner the Ouse corresponds to
the Darenth, and the Cuckmere to the Medway. Although these co
incidences may perhaps be accidental, it is by no means improbable
that the great amount of elevation towards the centre of the Weald
district gave rise to transverse fissures." If these transverse hollows
could be filled up, all the rivers, observes Mr. Conybeare, would be
forced to take an easterly course, and to empty themselves into the sea
by Eomney Marsh and Pevensey Levels.
The various formations between the two ranges of Downs, which,
according to this hypothesis, have been laid bare by the upheaval and
subsequent removal of the chalk, offer very distinct scenery and pecu
liarities. The Forest Ridge, formed of the Hastings sands, is perhaps
the most romantic portion of the county (see Rte. 22). Steep and
abrupt hills, intersected by numerous stream-valleys, extend in a
long line from Fairlight to Horsham. The valleys are themselves
picturesque and full of beauty. From the hills noble views are com
manded toward the sea and the Downs on either side. The highest
point of this ridge is Crowborough Beacon (804 feet). Scots pine and
fir (both of comparatively recent introduction), beech and birch abound
throughout the district. The country of the Weald clay, which en
circles the Forest Ridge, is more level, but by no means tame. The
oak is here the principal tree. This district was " once the bed of an
ancient delta or estuary, formed by a river of great extent, flowing
through a country possessing a tropical flora, and inhabited by reptiles
of appalling magnitude, and of species which no doubt became extinct
ere the creation of the human race." Many of these reptiles — among
them the Iguanodon and the Hylseosaurus — were first discovered in
Tilgate Forest by Dr. Mantell. Between the Weald clay and the
•chalk, beds of the lower greensand intervene, presenting here and
there, especially about Midhurst and Petworth, some very interesting
¦scenery. But the most peculiar district in the country — as striking
and picturesque in its way as the Forest Ridge — is that of the chalk,
forming the range of the South Downs.

Sussex. Geology and Traveller's View. xvii
The South Downs in Sussex extend 53 miles in length, with an
average breadth of 4J miles, and an average height of about 500 feet.
The greatest elevations are attained at Ditchling Beacon (858 feet), and
at Firle Beacon (820 feet). Chanctonbury Ring (814 feet) is, how
ever, a more conspicuous mark at a distance, owing to the dark mass of
firs with which it is crested. It may be distinctly recognised from the
range of the North Downs in Surrey. Crowborough Beacon, between
Uckfield and Tunbridge Wells, reaches an elevation of 804 feet.
About 300 species of shells, zoophytes, and fishes have been dis
covered in the chalk. The great beauty of its outlines, and the
graceful undulations which, fold after fold, pass away into the extreme
distance — " lines of beauty, unequalled except in some island group of
the Pacific" — are alone sufficiently attractive. But the magnificent
prospects commanded from these hills, and the perfect freedom with
which it is possible to ride or walk for miles along their unenclosed
summits, render the Sussex Downs one of the most delightful districts
in the south of England. " Though I have now travelled them for
upwards of thirty years," writes Gilbert White to Barrington (Letter
17), " yet I still investigate that chain of majestic mountains with
fresh admiration year by year, and I think I see new beauties every
time I traverse it." ..." Mr. Ray," he continues, " used to visit a
family just at the foot of these hills, and was so ravished with the pros
pect from Plumpton Plain, near Lewes, that he mentions those scapes,
in his Wisdom of God in the Works of the Creation, with the utmost
satisfaction, and thinks them equal to anything he had seen in the
finest parts of Europe." The tourist, if he penetrate at all beyond
those parts of the range usually visited (in the immediate neigh
bourhood of Brighton), will find the South Downs less hackneyed
ground and quite as interesting as many parts of the Continent which
enjoy a far higher reputation. The best and most complete notice of
them will be found in Mr. Lower's Contributions to Literature, to
which reference has already been made.
The eastern half of the South Downs, from Beachy Head to beyond
Lewes, is more hare and treeless, though perhaps finer in form, than the
hills farther west. The great sweeps of the chalk are everywhere
broken by " coomhes " and " deans," the local names for the deep
valleys and hollows (see Lewes, Rte. 18). Stunted junipers, occasional
patches of box, and hawthorns, sometimes of great age, and strongly
marked against the green turf by their clusters of white blossoms or
scarlet berries, are dotted here and there over the Downs ; and, as we
advance westward, " shaws " and " holts," as the little woods are
called, become more and more frequent, nestling in the sheltered
coombes, and struggling upward over the hill-side in the most pic
turesque manner. Ash, hazel, and oak are the trees of which they are
mostly formed ; and nothing can be more beautiful than their colouring
in early autumn, finely contrasted with the bright close turf, and seen
under a sky chequered with passing cloudlets. At every step the
tourist will then be reminded of Copley Fielding, who laboured so long

xviii Geology and Traveller's View. Sussex. ,
among these downs, and whose drawings record so faithfully every
characteristic of their scenery.
A marked feature ofthe chalk hills is the number of "fairy rings,"
sometimes called " hagtracks," and frequently occurring of very un
usual size. The fairies themselves, although no longer taking much
interest in the things of " middle earth," may still be occasionally heard
of in the more "elenge" (lonely) places of the Downs. They are
locally known, however, as " Pharisees," by which name it is supposed
they are frequently mentioned in the Bible — a sufficient proof of their
actual existence. But " Pharisees " in this connection is nothing more
than " fairieses," a corrupt plural of ' ' fairy." Among the many flowers
to be met with on the Downs are several species of orchis, and three of
the gentians (campesiris, amarella, and pneumonanthe), lovely enough,
with their bright blue stars, to adorn the couch of Titania herself.
Besides the fairy rings, barrows of all dates — Celtic, Roman, and Saxon
— are found scattered over the Downs. The tourist will also remark
the T-shaped incisions in the turf; these are traps for the wheatear
(Saxicola osnanthe), the " English ortolan," as it is called, and not
undeservedly. The wheatears are only summer residents, arriving
about the middle of March and beginning their retreat in September,
at which time they congregate on the Downs in great numbers. They
have been taken for the table, however, to such an extent in past times
that they are now rather scarce, and the entire extinction of the bird
may be looked for ere long. A shepherd on Mount Caburn, near
Lewes, is said (but long since) to have caught no less than 84 dozen in
a single day. The bustard or " wild turkey," which formerly haunted
all these Downs in large flocks, has long since disappeared.
The South Down shepherds, a very peculiar race, have all but shared
the fate of the bustard, although a specimen may still be lighted on
occasionally iu some solitary part of the hills. They used formerly to
live in caves or huts dug into the side of a bank or " link," and lined
with heath or straw. " It was in my cave," writes one of them, of whom
a very interesting notice will be found in the Suss. Arch. Coll. (vol. ii.),
" that I first read about Moses and his shepherding life, and about
David's killing the lion and the hear. Ah ! how glad I felt that we
hadn't such wild beastes to frighten, and may be kill, our sheep and
us." They were much " tempted " by smugglers. "Time and often
have I seen as many as a hundred men a horseback, with led horses, all
loaded with tubs of spirits and bags of tobacco." The Hawkburst
gang (Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 11) were the most celebrated and feared. The
smugglers, however, have quite disappeared. The trade of " shepherd
ing" still descends in families, and certain names are always associated
with the shepherd's crook.
The views from the Downs themselves, stretching far over the Weald,
or towards the blue border of sea, are among the finest in the county.
The artist will also notice the very picturesque character of the villages
nestling close under the foot ofthe hills ; " clusters of lowly habitations,
some thatched, some tiled, -some abutting the street, some standing

Sussex. Geology and Traveller's View. xix
angularly towards it, all built of flint or boulders. A barn, a stable, a
circular pigeon-house, centuries old, with all its denizens (direct de
scendants of the old manorial pigeons which lived here in the days of
the Plantagenets), and an antique gable or two peer out among the tall
elms." — M. A. Lower.
The entire county of Sussex, but especially the district on the Weald
clay, long enjoyed a " bad pre-eminence " on account of its deep roads,
the terror of all travellers. " Sowseks full of dirt and myre " is the
character assigned to the county iu an old rhyme quoted in Leland's
Itinerary, and it continued an appropriate one until very recently. A
letter, "by an ingenious gentleman of the Court," gives a curious
account of the journey (in 1708) of Prince George of Denmark from
Godalming to Petworth, where he met Charles III. of Spain, who had
landed at Portsmouth. " We set out," says the ingenious gentleman,
" by torchlight, and did not get out of the coaches (save only when
we were overturned or stuck fast in the mud) till we arrived at our
journey's end. 'Twas hard for the Prince to sit 14 hours in the coach
that day without eating anything, and passing through the worst ways
that ever I saw in my life. We were thrown but once indeed in going,
but both our coach, which was the leading, and his Highness's body-
coach, would have suffered very often if the nimble boors of Sussex
had not frequently poised it or supported it with their shoulders from
Godalming almost to Petworth ; and the nearer we approached the
Duke's house the more inaccessible it seemed to be. The last nine
miles of the way cost us six hours' time to conquer them ; and indeed
we had never done it, if our good master had not several times lent us
a pair of horses out of his own coach, whereby we were able to trace
out the way for him. They made us believe that the several grounds
we crossed and his Grace's park would alleviate the fatigue ; but I pro
test I could hardly perceive any difference between them and the
common roads." Nearly fifty years later, Horace Walpole writes to
Montague (August, 1749), " If you love good roads, conveniences, good
inns, plenty of postilions and horses, be so kind as never to go into
Sussex. We thought ourselves in the northest part of England. The
whole country has a Saxon air, and the inhabitants are savage, as if
King George the Second was the first monarch of the East Angles.
Coaches grow there no more than balm and spices. We were forced to
drop our post-chaise that resembled nothing so much as a Harlequin's
calash, which was occasionally a chaise or a baker's cart. We journeyed
over Alpine mountains, drenched in clouds, and thought of Harlequin
again when he was driving the chariot of the sun through the morning
clouds, and so was glad to hear the aqua vitas man crying a dram. . . .
I have set up my staff and finished my pilgrimages for this year.
Sussex is a great damper of curiosity."
Oxen were generally used to draw carriages of all sorts through these
heavy roads, and they may still be seen in different parts of the county
employed as "beasts of draught," as well as in ploughing. But for the
most part the perils of Sussex travelling have disappeared. Excellent

xx Geology and Traveller's View. Introd.
roads, laid with the ironstone " clinkers," have been formed through
out the county ; and railways have penetrated it ; and although every
tourist will do well to bear in mind the caution of Bailie Nicol Jarvie,
that a man must not expect to cany about with him " the comforts of
the Sautmarket," there is, nevertheless, no important town in the
county in which they need be missed, and the large watering-places are
of course supplied with all the appliances of the metropolis. In the
less frequented districts nistic inns and harder fare must be submitted
to : but bacon and eggs are neverfailing resources, and cleanliness may
almost always be confidently reckoned upon.
For the old Sussex dialect, which still retains the Saxon pronuncia
tion and many Saxon words, consult Cooper's Glossary of Sussex
Provincialisms, or better still the newer and more elaborate Dictionary
by the Rev. W. D. Parish.
The most important collections of works of art in Sussex are at Pet
worth (Rte. 23), where the pictures are of the highest reputation and
interest ; at Parbam (Pite. 24), where beside some good pictures is a
noble collection of armour, ancient plate, MSS., &c. ; and at Goodwood
(Rte. 21). There are a few good portraits at Arundel Castle (Rte. 21) ;
an unrivalled library of MSS. and early printed books, plate, &c, at
Ashburnham Place (Rte. 22) ; and some pictures at Knepp Castle
(Rte. 25). These three collections, however, are not in any way
available to the ordinary traveller.

Sussex. ( xxi )

SKELETON TOUES.

A TOUR OF SEVEN WEEKS THROUGH KENT*
AND SUSSEX.
(EMBRACING ALL THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST.)
Days. 27. By rail (from Tunbridge Wells) to Hastings (Ete. 15). Visit
Etchingham Church and Battle Abbey (Rte. 15) on the way.
Tuesday is the only day the Abbey is shown.
28. Sunday at Hastings.
29. At Hastings. See the Castle, and visit the Lovers' Seat.
30. At Hastings. Visit Brede Place, Brickwall, and Bodiam Castle (Rte. 15).
31. At Hastings. Visit Winchelsea and Rye (Rte. 16).
32. From Hastings to Pevensey Castle (Rte. 20) ; by the Wartling road
to Herstmoneeux ; thence to Hailsham.
33. From Hailsham by railway to East Bourne (Rte. 20). By Beachy Head
and along the coast to Seaford and Newhaven (Rte. 18). By
railway to Lewes (Ete. 18).
34. At Lewes. See the Castle, Priory and town in the morning. In the
afternoon walk to Mount Cabum.
35. Sunday at Lewes.
36. Walk to Mount Hany. In the afternoon by railway to Brighton
(Rte. 17).
37. At Brighton. In the afternoon excursion to the Devil's Dyke (Rte. 17).
38. By railway to Shoreham (Rte. 21). See the churches of Old and New
Shoreham. Drive to Bramber Castle and Steyning (Rte. 24).
Return to the Shoreham Station and proceed to Worthing.
39. From Worthing to Stonington (Rte. 21) ; visiting Broadwater Church,
Sompting Church, and Cissbury Hill, on the way (Ete. 21). Sleep
at Storrington.
40. Visit Parham and Amberley— Castle and Church (Rte. 24). Proceed
through Arundel Park to Arundel (Ete. 21).
41. See Arundel Castle and two Churches. By railway to Chichester
(Ete. 21).
42. Sunday at Chichester.
43. See Cathedral and city in the morning. In the afternoon excursion
to Bosham (Ete. 21).
44. At Chichester. Excursion to Boxgrove and Goodwood (Ete. 21).
45. At Chichester. Excursion to Kingley Bottom and Bow Hill (Ete. 21).
46. At Chichester. Excursion across the Downs to Bignor (Ete. 21).
47. Chichester to Midhurst (Ete. 26). See Cowdray. Thence to Petworth.
48. See Petworth and Park (Ete. 23). In the evening to Billingshurst
or Horsham, whence trains proceed to London.

For the part of Tour, Days 1 to 26, through Kent, see Ean&boolcfor Kent.

Skeleton Tours. Introd.

PLACES OF INTEREST.
Route. Chief Points op Interest [the most remark
able with the Asterisk.]
Tunbridge Wells . . . . (See Hdblc. Kent).
Etchingham  *Church.
Hastings  *Views from Cliff's. Exe. to *Crowhurst. Exe.
to *Brede, Brickwall, and *Bodiam Castle.
Winchelsea  *St. Thomas's Church. The Friars.
Rte  *Church. Ypres Tower.
Battle  * Abbey. Ashburnham Place and Church.
*Exc. along the Forest Ridge to East Grin
stead. *View from the Heathfield Tower,
and *from the Cross-in-Hand Inn. Rother
field Church. *Crowborough Beacon. *Ash-
down Forest.
East Grinstead . . . . Church. *Sackville College. *Worth Church.
Balcombe  Tilgate Forest.
Cuckfield  Church. *Cuckfield Place. Lindfield Church.
Church of Horsted Keynes.
Hassock's Gate Station *Ditchling Beacon. Plumpton Place. *Street
Place. Hurstpiei-point. St. John's College.
*Clayton Church.
Brighton  St. Nicholas' Church. Pavilion. Old and New
Piers. East and West Cliffs. *Exc. to Devil's
Dyke. Preston.
Lewes  *Castle. Ruins of Priory. *The Coombe.
*Mount Cabum. *Mount Harry.
Newhaven  Church. Bishopstone. Seaford. Old Parson
age at West Dean.
Pevensey  *Castle. Roman Station. *Church.
Hailsham  Church. *Exc. to Herstmonceux Castle.
East Bourne  *Church. *Beachy Head.
Shoreham  *Churches of Old and New Shoreham. Exe.
to Bramber. *Steyning Church. *Wiston
House. *Chanctonhury Ring.
Worthing  *Sompting Church. *Broadwater Church. *Ciss-
buryHill. West Tarring. The Miller's Tomb.
Arundel  *Castle and Park. *Church. Exe. to *Am-
berley, Chm-ch and Castle, and *Parham.
*Climping Church.
Bognor  Rocks. *Hushing Well, Pagham. Pagham
Church.
Chichester  "Cathedral. *Priory Church, now the Town-
hall. *St. Mary's Hospital. Excursions to
*Bosham, *Goodwood, *Boxgrove, *Kingley
Bottom.
Midhurst  Church. *Ruins of Cowdray, and Park. West
Lavington Church. Exe. to Shulbrede Priory.

Introd. Skeleton Tours. xxiii
Route. Chief Points of Interest.
Petworth  *House and Pictures. Church. *Exc. to
remains of Eoman villa at Bignor.
Billingshurst .. .. Church.
Horsham  *Church. Denne Park. *St. Leonard's Forest.
Knepp Castle.

AN ARTISTIC AND ANTIQUARIAN TOUR.
Remains of Archbishop's Palace at Mayfield. Battle Abbey. Monu
ments in St. Thomas's Church, Winchelsea. (Collections at Ashburn
ham Place, not at present shown.) Hastings Castle. Pevensey (Eoman
walls of Anderida and Mediaeval Castle). Herstmonceux Castle. Lewes
Castle. Churches of Old and New Shoreham. Sompting Church. Broad
water Church. Steyning Church. Arundel Castle (pictures in the castle
not shown). Amberley Church and Castle. Parham (pictures, armour, and
MSS., &c, not shown). Climping Church. Chichester Cathedral. Bosham
Church. Goodwood (pictures at). Boxgrove Church. Up Park, Stanstead
(pictures, china, &c). Euins of Cowdray. Petworth (pictures and sculpture).

HANDBOOK FOR SUSSEX.

ROUTES.
%* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are
described.

ROUTE PAGE
15 London to St. Leonard's and
Hastings, by Tunbridge
Wells and Battle  1
16 Hastings to Ashford, by
Winchelsea, Bye, and
Appledore  20
17 London to Brighton, by Croy
don and Eedhill Junction
[ Worth, Hurstpierpoint] . . 27
18 London to Lewes, Newhaven,
and Seaford  39
19 Tunbridge Wells to Lewes,
by Buxted and Vckfield . . 53
20 London to Mast Bourne and
Hastings, by Lewes and
Pevensey [Beachy Head] . . 56
21 Brighton to Portsmouth,
by Shoreham, Worthing,
[Arundel] and Chichester.

route page
Boxgrove, Goodwood, Bog-
nor, Bosham  69
22 London to Tunbridge Wells,
by Three Bridges, East
Grinstead, Withyham, and
Groombridge  101
22a Tunbridge Wells to Hast
ings, by Frant [Mayfield] 103
23 London to Petworth and Mid-
hurst, by Horsham .. .. 109
24 Horsham to Arundel and Chi
chester, by Pulborough
and Ford Junction .. .. 120
25 London to Shoreham and
Brighton, by Epsom,
Dorking, Horsham, Hen
field, and Steyning .. .. 131
26 Godalming to Chichester,
by Petworth and Midhurst 137

ROUTE 15.
LONDON TO ST. LEONARD'S AND
HASTINGS, BY TUNBRIDGE WELLS
AND BATTLE.
(South Eastern Railway. .)
63 m. from Charing Cross to
Hastings. For the country from London to
Tunbridge, see Handbook for Surrey,
and for Kent, Rtes. 2 and 8.
Soon after leaving Tunbridge the
high gables of SomerhiU (Julian Gold-
smid, Esq., M.P.) are seen 1. (Hdbk.
Kent, Rte. 2). Through a wooded
district the railway reaches
34 m. Tcnbridgb Wells (Stat.).
[Sussex.]

(Inns : Calverley, a quiet and well-
managed but rather expensive family
hotel, near the station; — Mount
Ephraim, good, quiet, and well situ
ated ; — Eoyal Sussex, very good, on
the Pantiles, near the Brighton Ely.
Stat.). The season is July, August,
and September, during which months
lodgings are dear. The best situa
tions are Mount Ephraim, Calverley
Park, Hungershall Park, Camden
Park, and Broadwater, near the sta
tion for East Grinstead.
Bailways: S.E. Stat, at head of
High St., to London direct, by Tun
bridge and Sevenoaks {Hdhle. Kent,
Ete. 8); to Hastings and St. Leo
nard's, by Battle.
Brighton Ely. Stat, near the Pan-
B

Route 15. — London to Hastings — Tunbridge Wells. Sussex.
essentially quiet ; little of gaiety or
display goes on here ; and the chief
resources of the visitors are the
agreeable country, and the charming
rides and walks in the vicinity. It
is still, as Evelyn describes it, " a
very sweet place, private, and re
freshing." The passing traveller
should visit the Pantiles ; Calverley
Park; Mount Ephraim and the
Common, including the Toad-rock
at Eusthall; and the High Eocks,
IJ m. off.
The waters, which rise in the bot
tom of the valley, are chalybeate, clear
and bright, with a slight but not un
pleasant taste of steel. The infusion
of iron is not very powerful, and
many similar springs are to be
found throughout the " Forest Eidge"
of Sussex, and in different parts -of
Kent. The " Wells " here were first
discovered about 1606 by Dudley,
Lord North, whose shattered health
was completely reinstated by them.
In a book pubhshed in 1637 he
recommends them in preference to
"the Spa in Germany," " a charge
able and inconvenient journey to
sick bodies." The spring had no
doubt been long known to the
peasantry, for, as Meg Dods asserted
of St. Eonan's Well, its steely taste
was traditionally said to have been
imparted by the Devil, who, after his
conflict with St. Dunstan at Mayfield,
fled here to dip his nose in the water
hitherto pure and tasteless. Another
and perhaps more satisfactory ver
sion attributes the chalybeate of the
spring to St. Dunstan himself, who,
finding that the enemy's nose had im
parted an unusual heat to his tongs,
cooled them in the water at this
place. The nearest lodgings to be found
at the time of Lord North's discovery
were at Tunbridge, — hence the name
given to the Wells. Others were soon
erected, however, at Southborough,

tiles; to Brighton, also to London,
by Groombridge and East Grinstead
(Ete. 22). There is now a service
of passenger trains between the two
Tunbridge Wells stations, but for
merly the line, which has long been
in existence, was used only for goods
traffic. Tunbridge Wells, with the excep
tions of " The Bath" and of Buxton
—known to the Eomans, and used
by Mary Queen of Scots — the oldest
watering-placej in the kingdom, oc
cupies the head and slopes of one of
the numerous valleys of the Weald,
through which tributary streamlets
find their way S.W. to the Medway
and the Bother. The soil is rocky
and sandy, with a mixture of loam,
which dries rapidly. The views are
very fine, and probably no Enghsh
watering-place (inland) is better
placed. Three parishes, Tunbridge,
Frant, and Speldhurst, meet at the
Wells ; two counties, Kent and
Sussex (only a small part ofthe town
being in Sussex) ; and three ancient
forests, Bishop's Down, Water Down,
and South Frith, traces of which re
main in numerous scattered patches
of woodland. The three centres of
population are Mount Ephraim,
Mount Sion (these names date from
thp first "discovery" of the Wells,
and are said to have been suggested
to the Puritan visitors by some
fancied resemblance to the site of
Jerusalem), and Mount Pleasant;
separated by a broad and very plea
sant common and race-course, and
by the Wells themselves. Calverley,
the name given to the hotel and
estate at the head of the valley, is
usually said to be a corruption of
Culverden, the "den" (small wood)
haunted by the culver or wood-
pigeon, but it is more probably a
softening of " Calvary," which may
have seemed needed to complete the
scriptural nomenclature.
The place, though its resident
population now amounts to 19,000, is

Sussex.

Route 15. — Tunbridge Wells.

3

about half-way between Tunbridge
and the Wells, and at Eusthall. The
waters speedily obtained considerahle
reputation, and Henrietta, Queen
of Charles I., visited them more
than once ; the CavaUers assembling
at Southborough and the Puritans at
Eusthall. They rose into the highest
fashion after the Eestoration, and
edifying notices of the visits of the
Court here will be found in the pages
of Grammont.
" When the Court, soon after the
Restoration, visited Tunbridge Wells,
there was no town; but within a
mile of the spring, rustic cottages,
somewhat cleaner and neater than
the ordinary cottages of that time,
were scattered over the heath.
Some of these cabins were movable,
and were carried on sledges from
one part of the common to another.
To these huts, men of fashion,
wearied with the din and smoke of
• London, sometimes came jn the
summer to breathe fresh air and to
catch a glimpse of rural life. During
the season a kind of fair was daily
held near the fountain. The wives
and daughters of the Kentish farmers
came from the neighbouring vil
lages with cream, cherries, wheatears,
and quails. To chaffer with them,
to flirt with them, to praise their
straw hats and tight heels, was a re
freshing pastime to voluptuaries sick
of the airs of actresses and maids
of honour. Milliners, toymen, and
jewellers came down from London
and opened a bazaar under the trees.
In one booth the politician might
find his coffee and the London
Gazette; in another were gamblers
playing deep at basset ; and on fine
evenings the fiddles were in attend
ance, and there were morris-dances
on the elastic turf of the bowling
green. In 1685 a subscription had
just been raised among those who
frequented the wells for building a
church, which the Tories, who then
domineered everywhere, insisted on

dedicatingto St. Charles the Martyr."
— Macaulay, H E., i. 346.
This ch., or rather chapel, which
resembles a Methodist meeting, and
is irredeemably ugly, but has a
companion in the more modern
Christ Church, closely adjoins thu
Wells; the pulpit is in the .parish
of Speldhurst, the altar in Tun
bridge, and the vestry in Frant.
In 1703 John Earl of Buckingham
gave " the Grove "as a promen
ade. Queen Anne subsequently
gave the Bason, called the Queen's
Well ; and in her honour the
"Queen's Grove," now replaced by
younger trees, was planted on the
common. She contributed also to
ward the paving of the promenade
or "Parade" with Pantiles, whence
its present name. This paving has
been replaced with stone, but the walk
still retains much of the character
represented in a well-known and cu-'
rious print of the last century ; when
Dr. Johnson stumbled along it, and
" all the good company on the Pan
tiles " came to stare at Mrs. Elizabeth
Carter, " the woman who could talk
Greek faster than any one in Eng
land." Beau Nash at this time pre
sided over the " social arrangements "
of the Wells. Wycherly here met
with his future wife, the Countess of
Drogheda, 1677,
One or two names of historical
interest are connected with houses
still remaining at Tunbridge Wells.
Pope's Duke of Chandos died here
at Mount Pleasant House ; Lord
North, after his retirement, lived at
Grove House ; and Eichard Cum
berland has given his name to a
house on Mount Sion, where he hved
for more than 20 years. "In this
salubrious climate," he says, " I
never experienced so much indispo
sition as to confine me to my bed
even for a single hom-."
From the S.E. railway stat. the
High St., lined with good shops,
descends to the Wells, in the bottom
B 2

Route 15. — London to Hastings — Eridge Castle. Sussex.

of the valley at the end of the Pan
tiles. The spring retains its original
situation ; but is protected by a kind
of portico orpiazza, completed in 1847.
The water is supplied by women in
attendance, called Dippers.
On the Parade and elsewhere,
the " Tunbridge ware," for which
the place is celebrated, may be pro
cured, and at no very extravagantly
high prices. There are one or two
manufactories of it at the Wells, but
the largest is in the town of Tun
bridge itself. This species of inlay
ing was introduced here from Spa.
Cherry, plum, holly, and sycamore
are the woods chiefly used. The
following rare or interesting plants
occur in the neighbourhood : Hy-
menophyllum Tunbridgense, Dentaria
bulbifera, Genista pilosa, Gentiana
pneumonanlhe, Nialaxis pahidosa,
Viola lactea, frequent in the " forests"
and on the common.
The Walks from Tunbridge Wells
are numberless. The Common, furze
and fern covered, is crossed hy broad
paths, which have the advantage of
rapidly drying after rain. The rocks
scattered over it are characteristic
of the Hastings sand formation ;
and similar masses occur through
out the Weald. On Eusthall Com
mon, 1 m. W., is the Toad Bock, a
remarkable logan-like cluster, from
which there is a striking view.
In St. Paul's Churchyard, Eust
hall, the first interment was that of
Charlotte Jeffrey Empson, and a few
years after, her father, Wm. Empson,
son-in-law of Lord Jeffrey. Here
also are buried Wm. Selwyn, Q.C.,
and George E. Porter, of the Board
of Trade.
The High Bocks, a pleasant walk,
li m., are the largest and most pictu
resque in the neighbourhood. They
have been enclosed, and the visitor is
admitted through a glazed porch,
after paying 6d. Opposite the en
trance is a little inn, called "The
Cape of Good Hope.'' Among them

Mrs. Carter found the "Salvator-
like scenes" through which she
wandered, "not without a kind of
pleasing terror." "Walking about
the solitudes," says Evelyn (1661)," I
greatly admired at the extravagant
tm-nings, insinuations, and growth of
certain birch-trees among the rocks."
There are still some remarkable
birch-trees among the High Bocks,
but the tourist who now visits them
will scarcely find the scene a " soli
tude " as in Evelyn's time. The
High Eocks are covered with in
scriptions. The " Bell Eock," rings with a
metallic sound when struck. The
walk to the High Eocks, through
lanes and hazel coppices, is pleasant.
Pembury church, 2§ m. N.E., has
some Norm, portions. Adjoining
Pembury Green (2 m. S.) is Great
Bayhall, an old seat of the Cole-
pepers. Oakhurst is the seat of Ch. Fred.
Huth, Esq.
The park of Boundes (Lady Har-
dinge), 2 m. N., near Southborough,
has some pleasant scenery. This
estate was granted by Henry VIII.,
after the attainder of the Duke of
Buckingham, to Sir T. More, who
was visited here by Erasmus. In
the birch wood is a column erected
to the memory of Lady Catherine
Stewart, first wife of the Marquis of
Londonderry, then General Stewart.
There is no prettier drive than to
Frant, 3 m., by the Upper or Forest
road. See the lovely view from
F. Green. From this the traveller
can take the footpath through Eridge
Park, and send round the carriage to
meet him at Eridge Green.
Eridge Castle (Marquis of Aberga
venny) is about 3 m. S. from Tun
bridge Wells. This place has been
in the Nevill family above 500 years,
held by a perpetual entail, and the
Crown being the ultimate reversion
ary ; but the castle and all the cot
tages about it have been rebuilt

Sussex.

Route 15. — Groombridge.

during the present century in the
worst possible taste, the castle it
self being quite worthy of a place
in Pugin's 'Contrasts.' The park
and plantations, which are very ex
tensive, are open freely to pedes
trians ; entrance by a stile, beyond
Frant, on the road to Mayfield.
The green rides cut througli the
woods in all directions are said to
exceed 70 m. in length. Saxon-
bury hill, on the W. side of the park,
is crowned by an ancient circular
intrenchment : in the centre of the
area is a prospect tower, the views
from which include Leith Hill N.W.,
Beachy Head ,S., and the chalk
range above Folkestone S.E. The
only (and a very good) view of the
house is obtained by driving to
Eridge Green, and walking thence
about 2 m. to Frant, while the carriage
proceeds thither by another road.
Queen Elizabeth passed six days at
Eridge in 1573. " From Eridge, my
L. of Burgeny's house," writes Lord
Burleigh, " the Queen's Majesty had
a hard begyning of a progress in the
Weald of Kent, and namely in some
part of Sussex, where surely are more
wondeross rocks and valleys, and
much worss ground, than iu the
Peck." My Lord Burleigh had pro
bably seen and marvelled at the
range called " Eridge Eocks," W. of
Eridge Green, of the same character
as those nearer Tunbridge Wells.
They are more important, however,
than the High Eocks, and more pic
turesquely shrouded in woods of
pine and oak. About 2 m. further,
and Hying a short distance off the
road, are Harrison's Eocks, and
Penn's Eocks, named from the great
Quaker, who had an estate in the
neighbourhood. All these rocks
are worth visiting. At Harrison's
Eocks the beautiful Osmunda regalis,
the queen of British ferns, grows
plentifully, and the minute Hymeno-
phyllwm Tunbridgense may also be
found. ,
At Groombridge (in Kent), 4 m.

S.W. from Tunbridge Wells, is the
Moated House, now called Groom
bridge Place (Rev. J. J. Saint). It
is in the form of an H, and was
built about 1660, on the edge of a
millpond, on the site of the old seat
of the Wallers, where the Duke of
Orleans was detained a prisoner for
many years after Agincourt. The
duke was found after the battle under
a heap of [dead bodies, by Eichard
Waller of Groombridse, who had
greatly distinguished himself. He
recovered, and was committed to the
custody of his captor. During his
detention at Groombridge he is said
to have rebuilt the house ; and also
to have built the church of Speldhurst
(in Kent), 3 m. N.E., in which parish
Groombridge stands. This ch. was
destroyed by hghtning in 1791. A
stone over the porch, on which are
the arms of the Duke of Orleans,
was preserved, and attached to the
S. porch of the new building, where
it still remains.
The Perp. chapel of St. John, by
the roadside in Groombridge, was
rebuilt in 1625, in gratitude to God
for the safe return of Prince Charles
from Spain.
Groombridge is a Junction Stat.,
whence lines run W. to East Grin
stead and Three Bridges (Rte. 22),
and S. to Lewes.
Among the favourite Drives may
be mentioned Penshurst, 7 m. (see
Hdbk. Kent, Ete. 2; the interior is
shown only on Mondays and Satur
days, unless the family are absent).
Hever, 11 m. (Hdbk. Kent, Ete. 2).
Knole and Sevenoaks, 11 m. ; rail
(Hdbk. Kent, Ete. 8). Mayfield, 9
m. (see post ; the distance is less from
the Ticehurst Road station, on the
S. E. R., but the road from Tun
bridge Wells, by Frant — where stop
to survey the glorious view rt. —
is very beautiful, keeping to the high
ground the whole way, and com
manding noble views). Withyam
(Stat.) andBuckhurst, 6 m. (Rte. 22.)
Bayham, Abbey (Hbh. Kent, Ete.ll).

C Route 15. — London to Hastings — Etchingham. Sussex.
Tunbridge Wells, and fine views are
occasionally opened across the Weald
country on either side.
43J Ticehurst Road (Stat.).
Ticehurst (Pop. 2939) lies nearly
4 m. E. In its Perp. Church, with
broach spire, well restored by
Slater, are considerable remains of
stained glass ; the letter W., in a
coloured roundel, possibly indicates
that the windows were the gift of
John Wybame, whose remarkable
brass still remains here. The figures
of his 2 wives, on either side,
are much smaller than his own,
of which the armour must date
nearly a century earlier than 1490,
the year inscribed on the brass (Suss.
Arch. Coll., vol. viii.).
Ticehurst, hke the other hursts in
this district, indicates the ancienf
presence of deep forest, much of
which still remains. Its glades and
thickets were once the haunts of
the fairy Tys, who, Hke his Saxon
brethren, Nip, and Trip, and Job, has
left his name to many an English
green wood. The whole country is
broken into the most picturesque
hill and dale.
Ticehurst-road station is 5 m.
from the interesting Palace of May-
field. 47J m. Etchingham (Stat.).
Etchingham, (Pop. 894) consists of
a few cottages : the *Church is close
to the station, and is of great in
terest. It is throughout late Dec.
The square tower is central, but the
ch. is without transepts, though the
tower is flanked by chapels con
tinuing the nave-aisles. The nave
windows are unusual in form and
tracery. The chancel is of great
length. The peculiar arrangement
of tlie sanctuary steps should bo
noticed. The two westernmost win
dows on either side are deep ' and
large, the third raised high in the
Wall, and much smaller. The E.

Longer excursions may be made
from Tunbridge Wells to Cranbrook,
14 m., along the ridge extending into
the Weald of Kent (Hdbk. Kent, Ete.
11), to East Grinstead, and the wild
country of Ashdown Forest (Ete. 22),
or to Uckfield (Ete. 19). Railway to
East Grinstead, and also to Uckfield.
Leaving Tunbridge Wells, on the
line to Hastings, we proceed through
a short tunnel, to which succeeds a
deep cutting, to
36^ m. Feant (Stat.). Village 1
m. rt.
From the hill on which Frant ch.
(Built 1822) stands (695 ft. high)
may be seen Duugeness and Beachy
Head ; Leith Hill is also visible. The
3 first-named points form one of the
triangles of the Ordnance Survey.
The ch. is " Gothic " of the year
1820. On the green are the old butts
for archery, and a public well (the
gift of Lord Abergavenny), which
seives also as an Albert Memorial.
These memorials take a practically
useful form in Sussex, that at Eye
being a much-needed clock on the
Landgate, that at Hastings being
also a town clock. From Frant
Gi'een a pleasant path, over a stile,
leads through Eridge Park to Eridge
Green 2 m. Near Frant is Sliernfold
Hause (Hon. Percy Ashburnham),
an Italian structure, built of stone
from the Wadhurst quarries. The
views from this high ground rank
among the finest woodland scenery
in England. From Frant Stat, a
road runs E. to Bayham.
39 m. Wadhcest (Stat.).
Here the ch., restored by Slater,
contains a curious proof of the
former activity of the furnaces in
this district, in the shape of thirty
iron grave-slabs. Its needle-like
spire is a landmark for miles.
The borders of Kent have been
skirted nearly the whole way from

Sussex.

Route 15. — Burwash — Robertsbrl

window is Flamboyant. The original
wood fittings remain in the choir.
The chancel door (S.) should be
noticed ; the font seems to be E. E.,
aud perhaps belonged to an earlier ch.
The porch with its bargeboard is ori
ginal. (Comp. the churches of Alfri
ston (Ete. 20), andPoynings (Ete. 17)
— of the same period, but differing
in details.) . In the nave is a monu
ment, with Latin inscription and
medallion bust, to Henry Corbould,
F.S.A., father of the artists. The
ch. was built by Sir William de
Etchyngham (died 1387), part of
whose fine brass remains in the
chancel, with a rhyming inscription
somewhat resembling that on the
Black Prince's tomb at Canterbury.
Adjoining is the brass of another
Sir William, his wife, and son, under
a triple canopy (1444). A helmet
of Sir Geo. Strode hangs in the S.
aisle. The ch. was carefully restored
throughout (the chancel at the cost
of the late rector, the Eev. Dr. Totty,
who died in his 102nd year), hy
Mr. Slater, who considers that Etch
ingham, Hawkhurst, and Ticehurst
churches were probably built by
the same architect, at the end of the
14th century. The churchyard, in
which is a' fine old yew, was once
moated, as was the ancient manor-
house of the Etchynghams, over the
site of which the railway now passes.
This family was already established
here early in the reign of Henry III.,
and continued lords of Etchyngham
until that of Elizabeth.
The house of Haremere, in this
parish, contains some curious carv
ings. It was a picturesque Tudor
house, but has been unfortunately
modernized. The Bother, which winds close to
the church, was anciently navigable
as high as Etchingham.
The Church of Burwash, on the
ridge 2J m. W. (restored by Slater)
preserves in the windows of its tower
rude baluster-shafts, like Barnack,
and contains the oldest existing article

produced by Sussex iron-founders.
It is a cast-iron slab, with cross and
inscription of the 14th cent., " Orate
p. annema Jhone Coline," an iron
"mistress" in the neighbourhood of
Sockness. This place gives a title
to the eldest son of the Earl of
Westmoreland, under the form of
" Burghersh," which is, indeed, the
local pronunciation in use to this day.
The Rectory is a charming house.
S. of Etchingham the rail enters
a pleasant tract of country, which
reaches quite to Hastings. Rounded,
wood-covered hills, and, in the lower
grounds, farms emiuged with bright
green pastures, intersected by narrow
lines of coppice, offer a constant suc
cession of thoroughly Enghsh pic
tures. In the midst of such sceneiy Hes
49| m. Eobertsbeidoe (Stat.).
Eobertsbridge (Pop. about 300) is
a hamlet of the parish of Salehurst ;
it contains the scanty remains of a
Cistercian abbey, founded by Eobert
de St. Martin in 1176. Its position,
on the Rother, at a point where
several small streams, uniting, flow
on to Bodiam Castle, is in accordance
with the almost universal choice of
the disciples of Bernard, who pre
ferred the river valleys to the hills.
A crypt remains nearly perfect, and
the position of the chapel may be
traced, but the rest is too com
pletely ruined to be appropriated.
An oasthouse with a curious co
nical roof full of sparrows' nests
shows some fragments of arches. In
the Bodleian is preserved a volume
having on one of its pages the words,
" This book belongs to St. Mary of
Eobertsbridge ; whoever shall steal
or sell it, let him be Anathema Ma-
ranatha." That this inscription was
not without its terrors is proved by
the lines written below (probably
by John Grandisson, Bp. of Exeter,
1327-69) : "I, John, Bp. of Exeter,
know not where the aforesaid house
is ; nor did I steal this book, but
acquired it in a lawful way." The

Route 15. — London to Hastings — Battle.

Sussex.

abbots of Robertsbridge and Boxley,
both Cistercian houses, were sent into
Germany on the detention of Coeur
de Lion, in order to ascertain the
cause and place of his imprisonment.
(Suss. Arch. Coll.)
Horace Walpole, who, to the im
minent peril of his neck, travelled in
1752 through the "mirie ways" of
Kent and Sussex in search of castles
and abbeys, found Robertsbridge
nearly as unknown as it seems to
have been in the days of Bp. John.
"Without being at all killed," he
says " we got up, or down, I forget
which, it was so dark, a famous pre
cipice called Silver Hill, and about
10 arrived at a wretched village
called Eofher (Eobert's) bridge. We
had 6 miles farther, but determined
to stop, as it would be a pity to break
our necks before we had seen all we
intended. But alas ! there was only
one bed to be had. All the rest
were inhabited by smugglers, whom
the people of the house called Mounte
banks, and with one of whom the lady
of the den told Mr. Chute he might
Ue." But Mr. Chute " could not take
to this society," and about two in
the morning the travellers arrived at
Battle. (Letters, vol. i.) In return
ing, the lord of Strawberry luxuriated
in the view from Silver Hill, which
extends far and wide over the Wealds
of the 2 counties. " It commands a
whole horizon of the richest blue
prospect you ever saw." This "pre
cipice " stretches up behind Salehurst
Church, conspicuous from the rail
way, on E. It has some E. E. por
tions, and may repay a visit.
Iridge Place (H. S. N. Mickle-
thwait, Esq.), Higham (Rev. G. C.
Luxford), and Wigsdell, formerly the
residence of the Colepepers, are in
this parish.
Sir G. B. Airy's theory, which
lands Caesar at Pevensey, fixes the
battle at which Laberius was killed
here at the Bother. (Archseologia,
vol. xxxiv.)

*Bodiam Castle is distant about4 m.
E. from Robertsbridge stat. An ex
cursion to it from Hastings, however,
may be made to comprise Northiam
and Brede, and is a round which is
to be recommended (see post).
3 m. S. of Robertsbridge is Mownt-
field, a village where, in January,
1863, some gold ornaments, weighing
11 lbs., were ploughed up, but were
barbarously consigned to the melting-
pot. Through the same undulating
country the train reaches
55| m. Battle (Stat.) — Inns :
Railway Hotel ; George.
A picturesque view of the abbey
gateway, and of the church, sur
rounded by trees, is gained from
the railway.
The Abbey, distant J m. W., is
open to the public on Tuesdays from
12 to 4 ; and although modern
changes during the last and present
century have swept away many asso
ciations of the place, it still remains
one of the most interesting sites in
England ; a ticket of admission must
be obtained at the stationer's shop
just opposite. The house is not
shown, except the hall, and that only
in the absence ofthe family, but the
gardens and ruins in them are well
worth seeing.
The great Battle, which the abbey
rose to commemorate, must first be
noticed ; and if, before visiting the
ruins, the tourist passes to the high
ground N. of the town, he will find
himself in view of nearly all the
localities : many of which may also
be seen from the terrace of what is
called the banqueting hall, within
the abbey.
After defeating the Norwegians at
Stamford Bridge, Harold remained
a week in London; then passing
rapidly S., took up his position on the
rising ground now occupied by the
abbey. His camp was protected by
deep dykes, and by a breastwork of
stakes and hurdles. The position

Sussex.

Route 15. — Battle of Hastings.

commanded the only pass inland from
Hastings, for E. were broad woods
SflA deep marshes, and W. the great
Anderida forest still covered the
country. A defeat would therefore
have been all but irreparable by the
Normans. " Had the intrenchments
of Battle been held with the same
enduring coolness as the lines of
Torres Vedras or the slopes of
Waterloo, the Normans would have
fallen back dispirited and starved;
in a day or two they would per
haps have been attacked by supe
rior forces, and, in all probability,
the glory of the Norman name
would have perished on the plains
of Hastings." — Airy, Archseol., vol.

William marched from Hastings
along the S.W. slope of the ridge
extending from Fairlight to Battle,
passing through what is now Crow-
hurst Park to Telham Hill, then
called Helheland (within sight S. of
Battle, and marked by a white farm
house). This point, a mile distant
from the Saxon camp, he reached
early on the morning of Oct. 14th,
1066, the feast of St. Calixtus. Here
he and his knights armed. The
duke's own hawberk was brought
to him reversed, a bad omen, but
one that he made light of, as he
had done by his fall on the beach.
(See Pevensey, Ete. 20.) Here also
he vowed, if he should be victorious,
to build on the field of battle a great
abbey, for the souls of the slain, and
in honour of St. Martin, the patron
of soldiers. The holy banner, blessed
by the pope, and containing within
its staff one of the hairs of St. Peter,
was then raised, and the army moved
forward. On all the surrounding
heights monks and priests had posted
themselves, watching and praying.
Taillefer the Jongleur first ad
vanced toward the Saxon camp, sing
ing the song of Eoland. He struck
the first blows, and fell himself later
in the battle, which then

in earnest. The Norman cry was
" Dieu aide ;" the Saxon " Out, out !
Holy Cross, God Almighty." Harold's
army would have been invincible
had it remained within the in
trenchments, but the Normans pre
tended to retreat, the Saxons broke
out upon them, and Eustace of
Boulogne fell on the Saxon rear. The
Norman arrows had not yet done
much execution, but William now
directed the archers to shoot upward
into the air, and one of ihese de
scending shafts pierced Harold's
eye. The battle, which had hitherto
seemed desperate on the part of
the Normans, now turned in then-
favour. Twenty knights bound
themselves by a vow to carry off
the Saxon standard. They suc
ceeded ; many fell ; and in the struggle
Harold himself was struck twice
on the helmet and thigh ; by whom
was never known. This decided the
battle, which, however, lasted on
until the evening, when the remain
ing Saxons fled to the woods. In
this flight and pursuit Normans and
Saxons fell into a ditch called the
Malfosse in which many perished.
This Malfosse has been fixed at the
stream which runs under Caldbeck
Hill toward Wallington (N.W. of
Battle). It was then a morass. The
battle lasted the whole day. William
supped and slept on the spot where
Harold had fallen.
The main scene of the fight was
then " probably a down covered with
heath and furze — a wild rough com
mon without houses or trees." — M.A.
Lower. Sanguelac, or "the lake," is the
name given to that part of the town
lying E. of the ch., — tradition says
because of the blood spilt there. The
earliest form, however, in which the
word appears is Samtlache. Local
"folk-lore" found another trace of
the battle in. the httle rivulet Asten,
close by— B 3

10 Route 15.— London to Hastings — Battle Abbey. Sussex.
The " Abbey of St. Martin of the
place of the battle " (Domesday),
the " token and pledge of the royal
crown," as it was called by its monks,
rose on the very spot where the
Saxon standard fell, within 10 years
after the Conquest. William Faber,
a Norman knight who had heard the
Conqueror's vow on Telham Hill,
and who had afterwards made him
self a monk in the Benedictine abbey
of Marmoutier, was intrusted with
the work ; in order to which he
brought over with him 4 monks of
great reputation from his Norman
abbey. William endowed it richly,
marking a " leuga " about the abbey
— a circle of 3 miles diameter — ex
empt from all customs and domina
tion. Special rights and privileges
were conferred on the abbot, who
had the liberty of releasing from
punishment " any condemned thief,
robber, or other criminal " he should
chance to meet anywhere throughout
England. The abbey itself was not
consecrated until 1094 (Feb.ll), when
William Rufus, accompanied by Abp.
Anselm and a great train of prelates,
visited it for the purpose. Its great
privileges, and especially its freedom
from episcopal jurisdiction, involved
the abbey in perpetual disputes with
the bishops and archbishops, which
indeed make up the principal part of
its history until the Dissolution, when
the house was found in no good con
dition. It was, wrote Commissioner
Layton, " the worst that ever I see
in all other places ; whereas I see
specially the blake sort of dyvellyshe
monies." The annual value of Battle
was then 860L, marking it as among
the wealthiest abbeys of England.
It was granted to Sir Anthony
Browne, the proxy of Henry VIII.
on his marriage with Anne of Cleves.
It continued in the hands of his de
scendants — the Lords Montague of
Cowdray— until sold by the fourth
Lord Montague to Sir Thomas
Webster, from whose descendant, Sir
G. Webster, it was purchased by

" Asten once distained with native 'English
blood,
"Whose soil yet, when tout -wet with any
little rain,
Doth ohish, as put in mind of those there
sadly slain." Drayton, Polyolb.
Its sources are chalybeate springs
tinged with red. Telham Hill, where
the Conqueror's standard was raised,
is, says tradition, probably Tellman
hill, because William there " told his
men." So Caldbeckis converted into
"Call-back" Hill, because the Con
queror here called hack Ms pursuing
troops. The name of " Mmitjoye," one
of the divisions of the hundred of
Battle, was occasionally given to a
heap of stones set up as a monument
of victory, and may have been so
here ; but it also frequently occurs as
the name of a spot from which the
first view of a great religious house
was obtained.
To the Watch Oak,*W. ofthe town,
on the London road, a vague tradi
tion is attached referring to some
watch set the night before or after
the battle. Standard Hill, 4 J m. W.
in the parish of Ninfield, cannot
possibly refer to the position of the
Saxon or Norman standard, though
a tradition says that it does.*
It is worth remarking that the
battle was not improbably fought on
Harold's own land. Nearly all the
manors on this southern coast had
been the property of his father, Earl
Godwin ; and that of Crowhurst, the
limits of which very likely extended
beyond the then wild scene of the
battle, belonged to Harold himself.
The pilgrimage to the remains of
Battle Abbey must be made in the
company of some dozens of visit
ors, congenial or otherwise. "We
are by no means at liberty to hold
communion with the spirits of the
past that dwell among the lichens and
the mould," but are driven onward
in the regular train.
* See M. A. Lower's Contributions to
Literature.

Sussex.

Route 15. — Battle Abbey.

11

Lord Harry Vane (Duke of Cleve
land) in J857.
The abbey buildings were con
verted into a mansion-house by Sir
Anthony Browne, who built the S.
wing and banqueting-hall, and far
more has been preserved than the
" few foundation-stones in the midst
of a swamp," which Dr. Lappen-
berg is pleased to assert are the only
visible monuments of the Conquest.
The Gate-house, fronting the street,
is for the most part late Dec, and
probably theworkof Abbot Bethynge,
who obtained a licence to fortify and
embattle his monastery, 12 Edw. III.,
its position near the sea rendering
such precautions not unnecessary.
" A small portion of the gate-house
front shows rubble masonry and a
Norman buttress " (Hussey), which
must have been united with the new
work. The Dec. part is very beauti
ful, and one of the best specimens of
the time. The long range of building,
rt, was for some time used as the
town-hall, but has been allowed to
fall into ruin. The house nearest the
gateway W. was the ancient hospital
for pilgrims, and is still called the
Almonry. Passing within the gate
way, the visitor finds himself in
front of the present dwelling-house,
which includes parts of the abbey,
and a good Gothic addition of
the year 1860. The abbatial hall
is interesting solely on its own ac
count, and in spite of its many
decorations. The adjoining room is
thought to have been the Loeutorium
or " parlour-," in which strangers
were received. Many other portions
of the abbey (not shown) are com
prised in the present house. A
morning-room was probably one
of the abbot's private apartments,
and retains its original window.
A corridor and bed-rooms have been
formed from the dormitory, and
below is a vaulted room called the
" Beggars' Hall."
The garden front of the building
includes part of one side of the old

cloisters, and displays 9 arches filled
with Perp. tracery. A handsome
dining-room and library, with long
windows, built (1860) by Lord Harry
Vane, from Clutton's design, over
looks the raised Terrace, which oc
cupies the site of the banqueting-
hall built by Sir Anthony Browne,
the only remains of which are 2
tall and isolated octagonal watch-
turrets at the W. end. From this
point there are good views over
all the country, S., and most of the
localities of the battle may be made
out. The sea is here visible, as is
Beachy Head, the Enghsh bead-
land which first greeted the Con
queror as he neared the coast
(see Pevensey). The beauty of the
site, " noble above the level of
abbeys," wrote Walpole, is also evi
dent from here. Below the terrace
are 8 vaults, " magazines for provi
sions and fuel" {Pennant). From
the E. end the refectory is visible
but not accessible.
The flower-garden, which abounds
in old yews and cedars, occupies the
site ofthe Church of the monastery, of
which the foundations of the E. end,
or rather of the undercroft, were
laid open in 1817. They still re
main uncovered, and show the apse,,
of the crypt, with the bases of its
massy columns. This spot, the site
of the high altar, is the most
interesting within the abbey-walls,
for it is exactly that where the
Saxon standard was erected, and on
which Harold himself fell. Faber
and the monks of Marmoutier had
at first selected another site for the
abbey, representing the want of
water on the actual field of battle ;
but William rephed that, if God
spared his life, wine should be more
plenty in that monastery than
water elsewhere; and the founda
tions were accordingly marked out
as originally intended, — the high
altar of . the church being fixed
on the spot where Harold had fallen.
At this altar William subsequently

12 Route 15. — London to Hastings — Battle. Sussex.
mond, the last abbot. In the chancel
is the stately tomb of Sir Anthony
Browne, the first lay lord of Battle.
It is of white marble, with some
traces of gold and colour. The
effigies of Sir Anthony and his wife
Alice (the Earl of Surrey's Fair
Geraldine) are much mutilated : the
date of Sir Anthony's death is left
blank — a proof that the tomb was
erected by himself during his lifetime.
On the floor are 3 Brasses: — John
Wythines, Dean of Battle, d. 1615 ;
Eohert Clere, also dean ; and John
Lowe in plate-armour (1426). In
the nave are a half-length brass of
W. Arnold (1435), and one of Thos.
Alfraye and wife, c. 1600. The ch.
has been restored (Butterfield, archi
tect), the keys are kept at the
shoemaker's shop close by. A tomb
stone in the ch.-yd. states that one
Isaac Ingall died in 1798 at the age
of 120.

offered the sword he had carried in
the battle, and the robe worn at his
coronation. S. of the ch. is the Refectory,
E. Eng., well preserved, with lan
cet windows and strongly buttressed
walls. It is built on the slope of
the hill, and beneath it are crypts
or vaulted rooms of the same date,
the height of which varies owing
to the slope of the ground from
the N. The appropriation of these
rooms is uncertain : the largest,
supported on 3 central pillars, has
been called, and perhaps with reason,
the Scriptorium, or library. Among
the few books found here by Leland
on his visitation was Prior Clement
of Lanthony's " libellus " ' On the
Spiritual .Wings and Feathers of the
Cherubim.' The famous roll of Battle Abbey,
said to be the " roll-call " from which
William's knights were called over
on Telham HU1 the morning of the
battle, was hung up in the monastery,
and after the Dissolution is said to
have been removed to Cowdray,
where it perished in the great fire.
The most accurate copy seems to be
Leland's ; but, although the roll may
be accepted as a good list of Norman
families, it in all probability never
existed until long after Normans and
Saxons had settled down peacefully
all over England. The various ver
sions differ hopelessly between them
selves. Following the lme of the lofty
enclosure wall of the Abbey, which
towards the road has some Norm.
buttresses, one comes to the Parish
Church, which is Trans., with some
Dec. windows (comp. Tillington and
Herstmonceux, also of this (Trans.)
period. — Sharpe). All that is now
seen is later than the first ch. here,
which was built for the use of the
town, temp. Hen. I., by the Abbey,
to which it was subject. There are
some fragments of stained glass,
among which is the effigy of Ha-

The parish of Battle (Pop. 3495)
retains traces of its ancient privi
leges. The lay abbot (now the
Duke of Cleveland) appoints a dean,
who had full power within the old
jurisdiction, which was free from
that of the bishop, but this privilege
has been taken away.
After inspecting the scenes of an
cient warfare, the tourist may, if he
pleases, make inquiries as to Hie
resources of modern. The great
powder-mills of Battle are among the
largest in the kingdom. They lie
S.W. of the town, and the walk to
them through the woods is very pic
turesque. In the beautiful groundsof ^Tormoji-
hurst (T. Brassey, Esq., M.P.), 2 m.
S.E. of Battle, are some fine pinuses,
an Araucaria 50 feet high, Welling-
tonias, &c.
Whatlington, 1 § m. N.E. of Battle,
has a fine ch. (restored), with good
painted glass.
The scenery round Battle is so
pleasing, although without any very
striking features, that the stranger

Sussex.

Route 15. — Hastings.

will do well to explore it. A walk
to or from Hastings (7 m.) will be
found far from unpleasant ; and a
very interesting drive may be taken
by Ashburnham and Herstmonceux,
returning to Hastings by rail either
from the Pevensey or Hailsham sta
tions. This may be well done in a
long summer-day (about 13 m. to
Hailsham; a little more to Peven
sey). There is much woodland
about Battle, although the oaks are
not fine, owing, as Cobbett has
pointed out, to the shallowness of
the clay. The neighbourhood is
famous for its wild flowers.
Through this scenery the railway
descends towards the sea, having
previously been joined (rt.) by the
Brighton, Lewes, and Hastings Ely.
(Rte. 20), and, after passing a tunnel,
reaches 61J m. St. Leonard's Stat. (Gen-
sing or Warrior Square Stat.) (Ho
tels : Victoria ; South Saxon), and
through another tunnel
63 m. Hastings Junct. Stat.
(Hotels : Queen's ; Alexandra, White
Rook Place ; Albion ; Castle ; Swan).
Railways : to Ashford, by Winchel-
sea and Rye (Ete. 16) ; to Brighton,
&c, by Lewes (Etes. 20, 21).
Hastings (Pop., including St. Leo
nard's, 29,291) is by far the most
picturesquely situated watering-place
on the coast of Sussex ; and in this
respect Dover alone can compete
with it on that of Kent. The old
town fills up one of the narrow val
leys that here open in the sand-rock
toward the sea, and was overhung
by the castle on the western cliffs.
The ing termination marks it as one
of the earhest Saxon settlements (of
the HaBstingas, whose name occurs
in many other counties), for its
foundation by Hasten, the great
Danish sea-king, has been entirely
disproved. Its ships and sailors
(butsekarls) were numerous and im
portant under the Confessor. The

13

arrival of the Conqueror is the
first great event in its history (see
post). Hastings long continued in
great repute for its shipbuilding,
for which the great Sussex forests
in the neighbourhood afforded am
ple material. As a port, however,
it had not the early importance nor
the wealth of Eye or Winchelsea, and
consequently escaped many of the
French burnings to which they were
subjected. Like other towns on this
coast, it gradually declined, and had
become a mere fishing village when,
toward the end of the last century,
Dr. Baillie began to recommend his
patients to resort to Hastings. From
that time it has steadily increased ;
and St. Leonard's, then a small vil
lage more than a mile distant, is now
joined to it by a succession pf ter
races. As a watering-place, Hastings
holds a middle station between
the universal mixture of Brighton
and the resorts of Mrs. Jarley's
" general pubhc " at Margate and
Ramsgate. The climate of Hastings varies
greatly, owing to the situation of the
town. The old town, and all the
lower range of houses reaching as
far as Pelham Place, are thoroughly
sheltered from the N. and E., and are
" well suited to the most delicate
pulmonary invalids during the win
ter and spring."— Mackness. The
higher parts of the town enjoy a
climate far more bracing, but still
milder than that of the East Kent
watering-places. St. Leonard's is in
some respects better situated than
either, since it is quite as warm as
the lower part of Hastings, without
being overhung by the cliff; but,
being quite open to winds between
S.E. and S.W., is often anything but
a genial place.
The Castle (open only on week
days) is the first point of interest
in Hastings. Its area, now laid out
as a pleasure-ground, covers the
extreme point of the W. cliff. A
small payment is required from

14

Route 15. — London to Hastings — Hastings. Sussex,

visitors. The plan seems to have
been unusually irregular, owing to
the cliff, which descends sharply on
the S. side, and rendered all fortifi
cation there unnecessary. 'The main
entrance was on' the N- side, where
the groove for the portcullis, and the
hooks for the gate-hinges, still re
main. On the E. side are fragments
of 3 semicircular towers. W,, a cir
cular and square tower both remain,
still of considerable height. The
most interesting remains, however,
are those of the Castle Chapel, which
are Trans. -Norm. It was laid open
by excavations, 1824 : the chancel-
arch is a reconstruction of ancient
fragments. The stone coffins placed
here were found during excavations
made in 1824. In this, or an earlier
chapel within the castle, Anselm con
secrated Robert Bloet Bp. of Lincoln,
(the day after the consecration of
Battle Abbey, Feb. 11, 1094), while
William Rufus was detained here
by contrary winds. The chapel it
self was independent of the castle,
and was in the hands of a dean and
secular canons ; a similar establish
ment, perhaps, to that which once ex
isted in the castle of Dover (Hdbk.
Kent, Rte. 2). Thomas a Becket
was dean of this chapel, and William
of Wykeham held one of its canonries.
Little is known of the history of
the castle. Hastings was bestowed
by the Conqueror on the Count of
Eu, who may have erected the first
fortress here, and in the hands of
whose descendants it remained until
the middle of the 13th cent., after
which the most remarkable among
the many Lords of the Honour were
the dukes of Brittany, who, however,
do not seem to have been admitted
as castellans, the fortress being re
tained in the hands of the Crown.
It is now the property of the Pelham
family, represented by the Earls of
Chichester. On the East Cliff, between which
and the castle hes -the old town of

Hastings, are traces of a great em
bankment, which has been con
sidered to mark the site of the Con
queror's camp before his march upon
Battle — " the heights
Where the Norman encamped him of old,
With his bowmen and knights, <¦
And his banner all burnished with gold."
Mr. Lower suggested, however, with
far more probability, that the camp,
in which the Normans spent the night
in prayer (as they tell us themselves,
by way of a favourable contrast with
the shouts and " drinkheils " of the
Saxons at Battle), was on low ground,
near the site of the present railway
station, and that the East Hill em
bankment was an outpost for ob
servation. An excellent view of the old town
is gained from the East Cliff. In very
clear weather the opposite coast of
Picardy is visible from here, including
the harbour of St. Valery, whence
the Conqueror's expedition set sail.
In the summer of 1797, owing to.
a remarkable atmospheric refraction,
the whole line of coast from Calais
to Dieppe became distinctly visible,
not only from the cliff, but from the
shore below, and appeared as near
as if seen from a vessel a short dis
tance off the coast. (Phil. Trans.,
vol. 88.)
There are still a few wooden houses
in the old town worth notice. A
strong wall, defending the seaward
entrance to the town, ran from the
Castle Hill to the E. cliff ; some por
tions of it still exist in Bomne Street
and George Street.
At the E. end of Bobertson Street
is an Albert Memorial of tasteful
design. The Churches of Hastings are quite
uninteresting. All Saints (restored
hy Butterfield) stands picturesquely
at the head of the old town, and is
mainly Perp. In its register for
1619 appears the baptism of Titus
Oates, the infamous, who was bom

Sussex.

Route 15. — St. Leonard's — Fairlight.

15

here, and whose father was subse
quently rector of All Saints. In
the ch.-yd. " Old Humphrey " was
buried. St. Clement's, in the High
Street, is also Perp. There are
here two Brasses : Thos. Wekes,
died 1563, and John Barley, 1601.
The font also, on the panels of which
the emblems of Our Lord's suffer
ings are carved, deserves notice.
St. Mary in the Castle, a Grecian
edifice, with a theatrically-arranged
interior, situated in the centre of
Pelham Crescent, has wine-vaults
running back under it, entered from
the street below. The Communion
Table is on the S. side. Holy
Trinity, in Eobertson Street, has a
pentagonal chancel, and good Dec.
windows. Hastings can boast of no dis
tinguished sons, but has received
many remarkable visitors. Here Lord
Byron wrote, Aug. 1814, "I have
been swimming and eating turbot
and smuggling neat brandies and silk
handkerchiefs, and hstemng to my
friend Hodgson's raptures about a
pretty wife elect of his, and walking
on cliffs, and tumbling down hills,
and making the most of the dolce
far niente for the, last fortnight!"
Campbell lived for 5 years at St.
Leonard's, and his 'Address to the
Sea' was written here. Charles
Lamb, having been " dull at Worth
ing one summer, duller at Brighton
another, and dullest at Eastbourne
a third," "did dreary penance"
during another at Hastings. "It
is' a place of fugitive resort, an
heterogeneous assemblage of sea-
mews and stockbrokers, Amphitrites
of the town, and misses that coquet
with the ocean. If it were what
it was in its primitive shape it
were something. I could abide to
dwell with Meshech ; to assort with
fisher swains and smugglers. I hke
a smuggler. He is the only honest
thief."— Essays of Elia. Smugglers
are now rare at Hastings as else

where. Caves said to have been
usod by them exist on the W. or
Castle Hill. They are known as St.
Clement's Caves, and are lighted up
on Thursdays for the inspection of
curious visitors.
St. Leonard' s-on-Sea, the Belgravia
of Hastings, which was begun to be
built by the late Mr. Burton and his
son Decimus in 1828, now stretches
in an uninterrupted line of terraces
of handsome houses, facing the sea,
from Hastings W. to the West Marina
Stat, of the London and Brighton
Ely., a distance of nearly 2 m. The
best houses are in Eversfield Place
and the Marina; with subscription
gardens and archery ground stretch
ing up the hill behind, and an iron
pier in front. This pier differs from
many such structures in having a
large pavilion on it — a doubtful
advantage. Inn: Victoria Hotel,
occupied during the winter of 1848
by the ex-king Louis Philippe. On
its site formerly existed a rock
called the "Conqueror'sdining-tahle,"
at which William is said to have
dined on the day of his landing. This
dinner finds a place in the Bayeux
Tapestry, but with better appliances
than seaside rocks. The true site
was probably nearer Pevensey. The
Gothic Ch. of St. Mary Magdalene
was built in 1852 by Marrable.
Excursions.
The neighbourhood of Hastings is
rich in beautiful walks ; and drives
and railway Excursions may be made
to embrace a great part of East
Sussex. (a) Walks— Over the E. hill to
Ecclesboume (1 m.), where a narrow
valley opens on the sea. The return,
when the tide is well out, may be by
the beach. To Fairlight Place and
the Lovers' Seat, one ofthe great Mons
of Hastings. Fail-light Place, 1 J m.
N.E., is best reached by the main
road, whence some fields open toward

16

Route 15. — London to Hastings — Crowhurst. Sussex.

the glen that descends to the sea.
This is very picturesque, with thickly
wooded sides and a tapestry of
wild flowers. At the head of the
glen is the dripping well, overhung
by an enormous beech-tree, and
bright with the stars of the golden
saxifrage. The Lovers' Seat is a ledge
of rock, at the opening of the glen
(1.), high up in the face of the
cliff, overlooking the sea S. of the
glen. It owes its name to the stolen
interviews of the captain of a re
venue cutter with a Kentish heiress,
ending, as may be recorded for the
benefit of future occupiers ofthe seat,
in a happy marriage. The return
to Hastings may be along the cliff,
making the walk altogether about
5 m. Fanlight Church (2 m. N.E.
from Hastings) was erected in 1845,
when the old ch. was taken down.
Behind it stretches up Fairlight
Doum, 599 ft., the highest ground in
this part of Sussex. The sea-view
extends from the S. Foreland to
Beachy Head ; and inland is very
rich and beautiful. The high ridge,
forming a continuation of the downs,
is that along which the Conqueror's
army marched to Telham Hill, visible
over Battle. Old Soar (2 m. N.) is a
so-called waterfall, which now, how
ever, roars "gently an 'twere any
sucking dove." "Probably no one
ever visited Old Eoar without being
told that this was not the season
for the water, and that it was never
known to be so dry as at present."
— Lost Brooch. The situation, how
ever, is picturesque, and the walk to
it very pleasant. Part of Ore Place,
close by, is said to have been built
by John of Gaunt. Ore Church is
uninteresting. (6) By Rail, Battle Abbey (Tues.)
may be reached in J hour (ante);
and Pevensey Castle in a httle more.
(Rte. 20.) The least costly way of
getting to Battle and back is by
public waggonette or omnibus. Many
such vehicles run every Tues. : fare

for the double journey, 2s. 6d. On
other days some of these conveyances
run to Fairlight.
(c) Within drives of Hastings are—
Crowhurst Church, 5 m. N.W., or 3 m.
from Battle. It stands pleasantly in
a valley, surrounded by trees. In
the tower window are considerable
remains of stained glass. Crowhurst
was long held by the Pelhams ; and
in the tower door-case, and the tracery
of the windows above, occurs the well-
known Pelham buckle, the achieve
ment adopted in memory of the
taking of the French King at Poic
tiers, an exploit in which Sir John
Pelham assisted.
In the churchyard is a once noble
but now decayed yew of unknown
antiquity, 27 ft. in circumference
at 4 ft. from the ground. S. of the
ch. are the remains of an ancient
manor-house of late E. E. character.
It was a small parallelogram with a
porch ; and contained only 3 rooms,
a vaulted ground floor, a large room
above, and one over theporch, perhaps
an oratory. The E. window of the
large room has very good mouldings.
It seems uncertain whether the pre
sent remains constituted the whole
house, or whether there was a hall
on the S. side, in which case the ex
isting house would be only the solar,
or private chamber. (Hudson Turner.)
The builder of Crowhurst is thought
to have been Walter de Scotney,
owner of the manor temp. Hen. III.
He was chief steward of De Clare,
Earl of Gloucester, and was ex
ecuted in 1259, on the charge of
having poisoned the Earl and his
brother. (Suss. Arch. Coll.)
Crowhurst' Place (T. Papillon,
Esq.), was long the residence of the
Pelhams. (d) A longer drive (or 20 min. by
rail, Rte. 16), will take the traveller to
Winchelsea, by Guestling and Ickles-
ham. Guestling Church (4£ m. N.E.)
has been rebuilt by Ferrey. In the
vestry is a fine old " Flanders Chest"

Sussex.

Route 15.— Cliff End— -Brede Place.

very richly panelled. Broomham
Park, adjoining, is an ancient seat
of the Ashburnhams. At Maxfield
in this parish is an old timbered house
worth notice. Maxfield was the
birthplace of Greg. Martin, translator
of the Eheims version of the Bible.
— For Icklesham and Winchelsea, see
Rte. 16.
At Pett, 1 m, S.E. of Guestiing, is
a very handsome ch., erected in
memory of Mrs. Young, the wife of
the incumbent. Hence a road leads
over Chick Hill, with a wide view,
to Cliff End, the point at which the
sandstone of Hastings suddenly sinks
into the level, leaving an open,
marshy coast until the chalk reap
pears beyond Folkestone. The soli
tude of Cliff End is striking ; and the
scene, wild and picturesque, will
repay a visit.
The Hastings Sand, of which the
cliffs consist, is the formation which
in various strata extends over the
valley of the Weald, between the N.
and S. chalk ranges. At Hastings
the rock is white and friable, and re
sembles the blocks on the common
at Tunbridge Wells. Its beds abound
in remains of fishes ; and fragments
of the Iguanodon have occasionally
been found. This white sand rock
is one of the lower beds of the for
mation, resting immediately on the
Tilgate clay, in which Dr. Mantell
first discovered some of the greater
saurians. (e) Very interesting excursions
may be made to Herstmonceux Cas
tle, 14 m. from Hastings (Rte. 20).
(/) To BodiamCastle (12m.), a dis
tance which will be slightly increased
if, as may easily be done, Brede and
Northiam are taken in the way. The
return may be by Bedlescombe.
The Church of Westfield (4 m.
N.) is E. E., but of no great in
terest. That of Brede (2 m. N.E.

17

of Westfield) is more important.
The chantry S. of the chancel is
attached to Brede Place ; and was
enlarged by Sir Goddard Oxenbridge
toward the beginning of the 16th
century. French workmen are said
to have been employed by him ; of
which the flamboyant traceries, the
foliage over the entrance door and in
the capitals of the arch-piers, were
the result. All these exhibit pecu
liarities unlike the English work of
the time. The monument of Sir
Goddard Oxenbridge, d. 1537, dis
plays his effigy in armour, and is in
Caen stone, hke the additions to the
chantry. The local folklore respect
ing Sir Goddard is remarkable. He
was a cannibal giant, especially fond
of young children; invulnerable by
metal, and only to be killed by a
wooden saw, with which instrument
some of his neighbours, having made
him drunk, succeeded in sawing him
in half.
-Brede Place, now a farm-house,
on the side of a hill, at the foot
of which a trout-stream "huddles"
along, hes 1 m. E. of the ch. It
dates mainly from the end of the
15th cent., but has some additions
made hy Sir Goddard Oxenbridge
early in the 16th. The first recorded
possessors of Brede were the Atte-
fords, in whose hands it continued
until early in the reign of Henry IV,
when it passed to the Oxenbridges,
who rebuilt the house. The earlier
portion of the house is of sandstone,
and the rest brick. The great hall,
and the apartment S. of it, deserve
careful notice; beyond was the
chapel, two storeys in height, but
entered through an ante-chapel, of
one only. The Caen stone work and
the window traceries throughout
should be compared with those in
the Oxenbridge chantry. The view
from the top of the house is fine.
Brede Place was long » favourite
resort of smugglers, who managed to
produce strange noises in the house
and about it, thus scaring away the

peasantry. A bridge crossing the
stream near the house is still called

18 Route 15. — London to Hastings — Nbrthiam. ' Sussex.
some additions and decorations temp.
Chas. II. The N. front remains unal
tered; the rest isof the second period. ,
The chimneys are richly ornamented.
The house contains some interesting
portraits — AcceptedFrewen thearch-
bishop, and his brother Stephen, by .
Gerard Loest ; their father, the rector
of Northiam {Mark Gerrard) ; Lord
Keeper Coventry and his second wife
(Jansen), presents to his secretary,
Thankful Frewen ; Lady Guldeforde
(Holbein). On the staircase are
Queen Elizabeth's green silk shoes,
which she took off under the oak on
the village green (see post) ; Abp.
Frewen's wheel barometer; and a
curious finger-organ. The gardens
are pleasantly old fashioned. Front
ing the house is a large oak, 18 ft. in
circumference, the single survivor of
an avenue the width of the house,
planted from acorns off Queen Eliza
beth's oak, immediately after her
visit in 1573.

In Gilly Wood, on the turnpike-road
to Rye, near the point at which it is
crossed in proceeding to Northiam, is
a deep gill (gueule) or ravine, hke
that of Old Roar, very picturesque
and worth visiting. On" the same
road, 1 m. toward Udimore, is Great
Sowdens Wood, 1., in which 'is a
large heronry ; 400 nests have been
counted here. Udimore, 1 m. E.,
was so named, says tradition, be
cause, while the ch. was building on
a different site, a spirit nightly re
moved the stones, crying " O'er the
mere ! O'er the mere ; ' of which
Udimore is a corruption.
In proceeding to Northiam, 4 m.
N. of Brede, remark, rt. (1 m. from
Northiam), the Well-House, an old
timbered building, dating from the
middle of the 16th cent. ; a good
specimen of a yeoman's residence.
It has a large hall, now used as
a store-room, with a central fire
place. Beyond is Briekwall Park,
and opposite, 1., an old farm-house,
said to have been the birthplace
of Abp. Frewen in 1588. Brick-
wall (T. Frewen, Esq.) is only to
be seen when the family are ab
sent. It was purchased in 1566 by
Stephen Frewen, alderman of Lon
don, from a family named White who
had long possessed it. His son
became rector of Northiam, and had
a son named Stephen, but he mani
fested strong puritanical tendencies
in the names of his other children —
Thankful and Accepted, of whom
the first became Secretary to the
Lord-Keeper Coventry, and the
second Abp-. of York. Accepted
was an eager Royalist, and conse
quently denounced by Cromwell, who
set 1000?. on his head. On the
Restoration he was appointed to
the see of Lichfield and Coventry,
and afterwards to the archbishopric.
Briekwall House is Elizabethan, with

Northiam Church was much en
larged in 1835. The tower is the,
most interesting portion — Norm. —
and " deserving of attentive exami
nation, as it presents some features
which may indicate very consider
able antiquity." — Hussey. The coign
stones should be remarked. There ,
are two Brasses : Nich. Tufton, 1538
(inscription restored), and Eobert
Beuford, rector, 1518. The Mauso
leum belongs to the Frewen family,
and was erected in 1846. The
Church House dates apparently from
the time of Henry VIII.
Dixter, in this parish, is an old
timbered house, which would pro
bably repay examination. Tufton
Place, now a farm-house, was the
cradle of the Tuftons, afterwards.
Earls of Thanet.
Adjoining the churchyard, on the
village green, is the fragment of
Queen Elizabeth's Oak, 24 ft. in cir
cumference. Under it, Aug. 11,
1573, the great Queen dined in her
way from Hemstead to Rye. Here.

Sussex. '

Route 15. — Bodiam Castle.

19

she changed her shoes, those she
took off being carefully preserved
as relics (see ante). Her Majesty's
dinner was supplied by Mr. George
Bishopp, whose very ancient timbered
house stands opposite the oak, and
should be noticed.
^Bodiam Castle, 3 m. N.W. of
Northiam, stands on a slope above
(on rt. bank of) the Bother. The
manor became the property of Sir
Edward Dalyngrudge, temp. Edw.
III., by his marriage with the heiress
of the Wardeux. Sir Edward was
present at Crecy and Poictiers,
and afterwards became a success
ful plunderer throughout northern
France. He obtained a licence to
crenellate a mansion here in 1386
(9th Eich. II.), from which period
the building dates. The male line
of Dalyngrudge soon became extinct,
and Bodiam passed to the Lewknor
family, in whose hands it remained
until the civil war, when Sir Lewis
Lewknor being an active royalist,
his castle of Bodiam was dismantled
by Waller's troops. The ruins have
since passed through many hands ;
they have been possessed by the
Websters of Battle Abbey, and by
the Fullers of Bose Hill, and were
purchased in 1864 hy G. Cubitt,
Esq., M.P.
The castle, highly picturesque,
though a mere shell, is surrounded by
a deep moat filled with water from
numerous springs pouring out of the
hill-side. It is nearly square, with
a round tower at each angle; and
square towers in the centre of each
side except the N., where is the great
gateway, which has square ma-
chicolated turrets on each side.
This is approached by a cause
way, once defended by a barbican,
one wall of which is standing,
and drawbridge. The escutcheons
over the main entrance are those of
Bodiam (the Norman possessor who
held from the Count of Eu), Dalyn
grudge, and Wardeux. The arrange

ments for defence should especially
be noticed. The outer portcullis is
still visible, and within the vaulted
passage are grooves for two more.
Instead of bosses, the groined vaults
under the gateways have circular
perforations, serving as machicoulis,
through which melted lead might be
poured down on the assailants.
Within are the remains of hall,
kitchen, chapel, and other apart
ments, carried round the main walls,
leaving an open court in the centre.
Opposite the main gate is the en
trance to the hall, one side of which
is removed. The kitchen is marked
by its 2 large fireplaces and its
oven; all are constructed of tiles.
From the corner towers staircases
led to an upper series of rooms,
lighted from the court. On the E.
side was the chapel. Herstmonceux
(Ete. 20), although considerably later,
may be compared with Bodiam in
many respects.
Bodiam Church, ^ m. distant on>
the top of the hill (rest. 1860), de
serves mention only on account of
the beauty of its situation and of the
view therefrom.
The return to Hastings, 12 m.,
should be through Sedlescomb, where
is an E. E. ch. with some Perp. ad
ditions. The font cover (Perp.)
deserves notice. In this parish
Roman coins have been found in an
ancient cinder-field, one among many
other proofs that the Sussex iron
stone was worked by the " terrarum
domini."

20 Route 16. — Hastings to Ashford — Winchelsea. Sussex.
siege of Exeter; and here landed
2 of the knights on their way to the
murder of Becket. It was, hke its
successor, one of the "more noble
members" ofthe Cinque Ports; but
had been granted by the Confessor
to the Norman Abbey of Fecamp,
with which monastery Henry III.
exchanged it for the manor of Chelten
ham. The first recorded inundation
took place in 1236 ; others succeeded
in 1250, when " 300 houses and some
churches were drowned." Winchel
sea had held (hke the other Cinque
Ports) to the party of Simon de
Montfort; and made some resist
ance to the royal authority even
after Simon's death at Evesham. It
was taken, however, by Prince
Edward, and the mass of the inha
bitants were massacred. After this
desolation, and a final inundation
which effectually drowned the town
on the eve of St. Agatha, Feb. 4,
1288, the inhabitants petitioned the
king for a new site, which he accord
ingly purchased for them on the hill
above, then a rabbit-warren belong
ing to Battle Abbey, Sir John Tregoze,
and others. Here a new town, em
bracing an area of about 150 acres,
was laid out, and, in consideration of
their losses, allotments were made to
the townsmen free of rent for 7 years.
In the old town was born Robert de
Winchelsey, afterwards Abp. of Can
terbury, the great opponent of Ed
ward I. in the matter of Church re-

ROUTE 16.
HASTINGS TO ASHFORD, BY WIN
CHELSEA, RYE, AND APPLEDORE.
(South-Eastern Railway.) 27J m.
The S.E. and the Brighton Com
panies occupy a joint station at Hast
ings. On the Ashford branch at —
9 m. Winchelsea (Stat.). This
is 1 m. W. of the town, and there is
no pubhc conveyance, but the walk
is very pleasant.
The trains on this line being few
and inconvenient, tourists coming
from Hastings and wishing to return
thither are recommended to go direct
to Rye, and, after seeing that town,
to walk or drive to Winchelsea, and
there commence their homeward
railway journey.
Winchelsea (Pop. 679) Inn, New
Inn), one of the " ancient towns "
associated with the Cinque Ports, a
parliamentary borough until the Re
form Act, and still a corporation with
its mayor and jurats, is one of the
most complete " triumphs of time "
to be found throughout England.
Old Winchelsea having been de
stroyed by encroachments of the sea,
a new town was founded on higher
ground by Edward I., but this, hav
ing been repeatedly ravaged by the
French, has sunk to the dimensions
of a mere village, though it still
retains edifices that " plead haughtily
for honours gone."
The site of Old Winchelsea (now
submerged) was about 3 m. S.E. of
the new town. It was a low, flat
island (Winchel's-ea) only connected
with the land on the W. side. Here
the Conqueror landed on his return
from Normandy to commence the

venues. The fitness of the site for the new
town is at once seen on climbing,
from the Rly. Stat., the wooded hill of
Higham on which Winchelsea stands,
rising sharply out of the marshes,
and looking across them to its sister
acropolis at Rye. On the top of the
hill is "Pipe-well," or "the Land"
gate, or" Ferry "gate; on it is a shield
with the word "Helde," the name of
theMayorofWinchelsea (temp. Henry
V.) at the time of its construction,
when it had been found that the
town had been laid out on too large

Sussex.

Route 16. — Winchelsea.

21

a scale, and so a more contracted line
was permitted; this gate is much
inferior in size to the others. A short
distance within it is the Town Well,
under a handsome Gothic canopy,
dated 1850 — the only modern thing
in the town — and in a few minutes a
turn of the road brings us to the
ivy-clad fragment of a Church, in the
centre of a square, with the relics of
the old town lingering about it.
At the time New Winchelsea was
built, the rock ou which it stands
was washed by the tides E. and N.,
and the harbour was one of first-rate
importance, the Portsmouth and
Spithead of its day. The town, like
others founded in Gascony and else
where by Edward I., was laid out
and built on a regular plan, and
subdivided into 39 squares or quar
ters, by streets running at rt. angles,
an arrangement resembling that of
a Eoman town, and which was
also found by the Spaniards ex
isting in Mexico. The town was
protected by the natural form of
the ground except on the W. side,
where is a deep trench or moat;
and had 3 gates. It traded largely
in wines and other " commodities,"
besides being the harbour from which
English troops constantly embarked
for the French wars. It continued
prosperous, notwithstanding constant
assaults from enemies by sea, of
which it has experienced more per
haps than any other English town,
until the middle of the 15th cent.,
when the sea retired, and its com
merce came to an end. At Eliza
beth's visit in 1573, although the
town was still full of stately build
ings, and the magistrates managed
to make so brave a show that her
Majesty was pleased to call it a
"httle London," there were not more
than 60 households remaining. From
this depression Winchelsea has never
recovered ; the greater part of the
town has disappeared altogether;
and the grey old relics that still sur
vive have an almost spectral charac

ter. But though the retirement of the
sea (it is now 2 m. off) was the main
cause of the ruin of Winchelsea,
the assaults from foreign enemies
no doubt greatly injured the town.
8000 French landed here in 1359
during the absence of Edward III.
in France ; set fire to the town, and
killed many of the inhabitants, who
were assembled in the ch. at mass.
The king, greatly incensed, at once
turned his arms against Paris ; but
in the mean time Winchelsea was
again taken and sacked by the
French navy, under the Comte de St.
Pol. In 1377 they again appeared
off the coast ; took Eye, and would
have taken Winchelsea, had it not
been bravely defended by the Abbot
of Battle ; who, when summoned " to
redeem," answered that " he saw no
need to redeem that which was not
lost," and repelled their assaults
from noon to evening ; when, pre
vailing nothing, they left the place
as they found it. " The French let
fly their great guns," says Fuller,
" and I take it to be the first and
last time they were ever planted by
a foreign enemy on the Enghsh con
tinent ; and these roared so loud that
they lost their voice, and have been
(blessed be God) silent ever since."
But this is incorrect. Winchelsea
was again taken by John de Vienne
in 1380, and it is supposed that the
nave of the remaining ch. was burnt
on this occasion. The town was
attacked and fired for the last time
by the French in the reign of Henry
VI. in 1449.
On August 29, 1350, a battle took
place off Winchelsea between the
Spanish fleet returning from Flan
ders, and thatof Edward III., who was
present in person. The Black Prince
and John of Gaunt were also in the
English fleet, the latter too young
to bear arms ; but the king, says
Froissart, " had him on board because
he much loved him." After Edward
had cruised for 3 days between Dover
and Calais, the Spaniards came in

22

Route 16. — Hastings to Ashford — Winchelsea. Sussex.

sight. They lost 14 ships in the
action, which was "well and hardly
f ought." The rest fled. The king
and his nobles disembarked at Win
chelsea in the evening, and rode to
the mansion (probably Sir William
de Echingham's at Udimore) where
Queen Philippa awaited him —
" mightily rejoiced to see her lord
and children." Her attendants had
watched the whole of the battle from
the coast.
The first point of interest in Win
chelsea is the * Church of St. Thomas
(the archbishop, and not the apostle),
of which the chancel with its side
aisles only remains, the nave having
been destroyed, probably by John de
Vienne in 1380. The whole is early
Dec. (circ. 1300), and the most im
portant building of this period in
Sussex. It is, moreover, particularly
well placed, speaking architecturally,
for it is in the middle of a spacious
ch.-yd. and with no houses near to
interrupt one's view of it. The
chancel, with its Dee. sedilia, diapered
at the back, and fine E. windows,
was restored in 1850. The windows,
connected by an inner arcade with
blind arches, are filled with a tracery
" of foreign rather than Enghsh
character" (Cooper), and resemble
those of Chartham in Kent (Hdbk.
Kent, Rte. 7). The leafage through
out the church, executed during the
very best period of "naturalism,"
deserves the most careful attention,
and the corbel heads at the spring of
the arches are not less curious. The
modern flooring tiles were copied from
a few of the original ones which still
remain in the chancel. Throughout
the church Caen stone and Sussex
marble were used in judicious con
trast. The nave, which is swept
away, extended nearly across the
churchyard. The ch. is now entered
from the ruined transept by a porch
of later date, over which are the arms
ofthe Cinque Ports. The triple gable
of the chancel, ivy covered, groups sin

gularly with the ruined transept ad
joining. These fragments are of the
same date as the chancel.
In the S. aisle was the Alard
chantry, originally the chapel of St.
Nicholas. Here are the 2 Alard
tombs, ranking " among the noblest
conceptions of this period in the
kingdom." The earhest is that of
Gervase Alard, Admiral ofthe Cinquo
Ports in 1303 and 1306. He was
living at the time the ch. was built,
and probably one of the benefactors
to it. (Cooper,*) His effigy is cross-
legged, and the hands clasp a small
heart. The lion at his feet, half
rising, yet still trodden down, turns
his head growling. In the canopy
above is a grotesque head with oak-
sprays springing from the mouth,
admirably designed. At the angles
of the canopy are the heads of
(apparently) Edward I. and Queen
Eleanor. The second canopied tomb is
probably that of Stephen Alard,
grandson of Gervase, and Admiral
of the Cinque Ports in 1324. It is
still very fine, but not equal to the
earlier one, which, however, it greatly
resembles. Remark the head with
baf s-ears, above, and the oak leafage
springing from them. The canopies
of both these tombs deserve careful
study. It is not improbable that they
may be somewhat later than the
effigies themselves.
At the upper end of the aisle
are the sedilia and piscinae of the
chantry. In the N. aisle are 3 monuments ;
a knight in mail armour, a lady, and
a young man in a long robe. These
are all thought to have been mem
bers of the Alard family. The tombs
are all canopied ; and a comparison
of the designs with those in the S.
aisle will show that they are pro
bably by the same artist. On the
chancel floor is the brass of a
civilian, circ. 1440.
Under a large ash-tree at the
W. side of the churchyard Wesley

Sussex.

Route 16. — Winchelsea — Rye.

23

-preached his last outdoor sermon, on
his visit to " that poor skeleton of
.ancient Winchelsea," Oct. 7, 1790.
There were 2 other churches in
Winchelsea; St. Giles's and St. Leo
nard's, of which there are no remains.
The Friars (Major R. C. Stileman),
not far S.E. from the ch., should
next be visited. The pubhc are ad
mitted only on Mondays. The ancient
house of the Franciscans here was
pulled down about 1819, and the
present building erected ; but a part
of the ruined chapel of the Virgin
still remains in the grounds. This is
the choir, terminating in an apse, and
entered by the original arch, which is
very striking. It is somewhat, though
perhaps not much, later than St.
Thomas's Chm-ch ; and is very pic-
turesquelysituated. Towards the end
of the last cent, the Friars was the re
sidence of 2 remarkable highwaymen,
George and Joseph Weston. They
hved here under assumed names,
and, whilst robbing the country in
all directions, enjoyed the highest
reputation at Winchelsea. They were
apprehended in London, after rob
bing the Bristol mail, and executed
at Tyburn, Sept. 3, 1782.
Of the house of the Dominicans
here a gable only remains. The
court-house and gaol, N. of the
churchyard, are ancient rehcs, but of
no great interest. Beside the Pipe-
well gate already noticed, the Neio
Gate, on the road to Pett and Fair-
light, and iheStrand Gate (also called,
incorrectly, Land Gate), half-way
down the hill looking toward Rye,
both datingfrom the reign of Edw. I.,
also remain. Few remains are more
striking than the stately "New"
gate in the midst of rough lanes and
green fields. At the Strand Gate
Edward I. nearly lost his life soon
after the town was built. At this
point it was fortified by bulwarks
of earth, along which the king was
riding, and looking at his fleet be
low, when his horse, frightened by
a windmill, leapt clear over the bul

wark. All within gave up the king
for dead ; but the horse, after slip
ping a considerable distance, did not
fall; and Edward rode safely back
through the gate.
Icldesham Ch. (St. Nicholas, 1§
m. W. of Winchelsea) is good Norm.
(restored), aud deserves a visit. The
nave pillars have enriched capitals,
and the S. aisle 3 early circular-
headed windows. The E. window is
modern. Beyond it, on White Hart
HiU, is a striking view looking over
Rye toward Eomney.
The walk or drive from Winchelsea
to Eye, about 3 m., is not to be
commended on the score of beauty,
since the road passes through the
salt marshes. About half-way (but
lying off the road, seaward) are the
remains of Camber Castle, one of
those small fortresses hke Deal,
Walmer, and Sandown, built by
Henry VIII. for the defence of the
coast. Like its Kentish brothers, it
has a central tower, surrounded by
smaller ones, which are connected by
curtains. It was dismantled in 1626,
but retains perhaps more of its ori
ginal condition than either of the
others. The sea, which once washed
its wahs, has now retired to some
distance. Beyond Camber Castle, on this road,
the tourist will gain the best view of
Rye, itself a contemporary of Old
Winchelsea, and therefore far more
ancient than the new town, opposite
which it stretches along on its irre
gular height ; whilst the varied lines
of its roofs and house-fronts are
broken by the square tower of the
ch., and by that of William de Ypres
rising beyond it.
11 m. Rye (Stat).
Rye (Pop. 4366) — Inns: George;
Cinque Port Arms ; Red Lion —
like Winchelsea, has been deserted
by the sea, which is now 2 m. off,
but its harbour is still of some im
portance, and has on its W. bank
a branch rly. ; it is formed by the
three rivers Rother, Brede, and Til-

24

Route 16. — Hastings to Ashford — Rye. Sussex.

lingham, which here unite their
waters. Rye, like Winchelsea, was
granted by the Confessor to Fecamp,
and was resumed by Henry III. It
became at an early period one ofthe
" ancient towns " annexed to the
Cinque Ports ; and, hke other towns
on this coast, suffered much from
French invasions, particularly in
1377, when it was almost burnt
to the ground. Pestilence and
plague also visited it severely at dif
ferent times — the combined result
of its crowded, seafaring population,
and of the miasma from the adjoining
marshes. After the massacre of St.
Bartholomew a large body of French
protestants took refuge here ; as did
others on the revocation of the Edict
of Nantes, some of whose descend
ants still remain in the town.
Elizabeth and Charles II. both
visited Rye. The first and second
Georges were driven into the port by
stress of weather, and detained here
some days. The sitting-room and
bed-room of George II. are still
shown in a house at the S.W. corner
of Middle Street.
The single " illustration " of Rye
is a bright one. John Fletcher, the
dramatist, literary brother of Beau
mont, was born here Dec. 20, 1579.
His father, Richard Fletcher, after
wards Bp., successively, of Bristol,
Worcester, and London, was at that
time vicar of the town.
There are three points of much
interest in Rye — the Church, the
Ypres Tower, and the Land Gate.
The cruciform Ch. (ded. to St.
Nicholas) is said to be the largest
parish ch. in England, and it well
deserves the most careful examina
tion. The earliest portions are the
central tower; the transepts; and
the plain circular arches opening
into them from the aisles of the nave.
These are early Norm. In both
transepts are fragments of a Norm.
arcade, with zigzag mouldings. The
nave is Trans.-Norm. The chancel
has chapels on either side : these

were long closed, but are now
opened; under one is placed the
organ, removed from the W. end,
where a fine Dec. window was
obscured by it. The great E. win
dow is rich Perp., as is the window
of the S. chapel; the other is Dec.
The carved mahogany altar-table
is said to have been taken from
one of the Armada ships, and to
have been given to this ch. hy
Queen Elizabeth. Unfortunately for
the tradition, it is certainly not
older than William III. Within
the rails is the .Brass of Thomas
Hamon (1607), M.P. and six times
mayor of Rye. The N. or St. Clare's
Chapel is E. E., and must originally
have been very striking. On one side
is a row of two-light lancet windows,
interclosed, the splays of which are
pierced for a gallery which passes
through the wall ; on the other side
arches open to the main chancel.
It has also a good modern E. win
dow. Here is the monument of Allen
Grebell, who " fell by the cruel
stab of a sanguinary butcher, March
17th, 1742." He was killed in mis
take for a Mr. Lamb, his brother-
in-law, with whom the " sanguinary
butcher " had quarrelled. The S. or
St. Nicholas' Chapel, long used as
a school-room, has also had its E.
window restored. The Perp. flying
buttress at the E. end, without,
should not be unnoticed. The
diversity of styles in this ch. is said
to be owing to the destruction caused
at different periods on the occasion
of invasions by the French.
The clock, the bells of which are
struck by a pair of fat golden cherabs
placed under a canopy on the N.
side of the tower, is said, like the
altar, to have been the gift of
Elizabeth; but it may weU be
doubted if it be so old : it is con
sidered, however, to be the most
ancient clock in England still ac
tually doing its work. The weight
swings into the central tower.
TheTpres Tower, at the S.E. angle

Sussex.

Route 16. — Play den — Appledore.

25

of the town, was built by Wm. de
Ypres, Earl of Kent, temp. Stephen.
It was both a watch-tower and a
tower of defence, since the sea once
flowed close under the rock on which
it stands. It has since served as the
gaol, but is now a police station, and
disfigured by additions. The tourist
should pass beyond this tower to the
path by the river, where he will get a
good notion of the position of Rye.
The view, in clear weather, stretches
over Romney Marsh to the cliffs of
Folkestone and Dover.
The Land Gate, on the London
road, N.E. of the town, is the
only one remaining, and deserves a
visit. It has been decorated with a
pubhc clock, as an Albert Memorial.
In Mermaid Street are some
remains of a storehouse built (1689)
by Samuel Jeake, a member of an
ancient Rye family, who printed the
Charters of the Cinque Ports. " The
foundation stone," he says in his
Diary, "was laid precisely at noon,
under a position of heaven" — which
is probably that figured in a horo
scope, still to be seen carved on the
building. The former Mermaid Inn,
in this street, has some carved wains
coting. S. of the churchyard is a stone
building (14th cent.), supposed to
have been the chapel of the -Car
melites. That of the Augustine
Friars is on Conduit Hill and is now
used as a wool-store.
On a hill about J m. N. from Rye
is the Church of Playden, E. E: with
some Norm, fragments. Near the N.
door is a slab having on it two barrels,
with a brewer's fork and mash-stick
crossed, and the inscription, " Hier is
begraven Cornells Roetmanns — bidt
voer de ziele " (Pray for the soul).
It is of the 15th cent. The material
of the slab is the carboniferous lime
stone of the hills near LiCge, a
curious proof that the brewer had
not forgotten his native country.
There is another Flemish slab in
All Saints Church, Hastings. Many
[Sussex.]

Walloons who settled in Sussex are
known to have come from the district
of Liege. In an old oak near Play
den churchyard was formerly fixed
a tar-barrel, used as one of the chain
of beacons from the coast inland ;
the view from this spot is very ex
tensive. Idem, (2 m. N. of Playden) claims
to have given name to the family,
one of whom, Alexander Iden, Shake
speare's " gentleman of Kent," killed
Jack Cade. Their ancient resi
dence has disappeared ; but the
moat may still be traced. Iden
Church has some Norm, portions.
Peasemarsh, on its hill, 2 m. W. of
Iden, is Norm, and E. E.
Leaving Eye, the railway crosses
the Bother by a remarkable swing
bridge, and enters on the great
level of Eomney Marsh. Notice on
E. the very deplorable-looking ch.
of East Guildford, almost buried in
the fen, and only to be approached
in a boat at times, affording a strange
contrast to Playden (with which
it is ecclesiastically united), placed
nearly opposite on a picturesque
wooded hill. At 14 m. we pass on E.
the httle brick ch. of Fairfield, soon
after mark the handsome tower of
Snargate (Hdbk. Kent, Ete. 14), and
reach, at
18 m., Appledore (Stat.).
The village of Appledore (Pop.
671) is nearly 2 m. W. of the station.
It stands on high ground, the very
verge of the Weald, and the extreme
E. point of the great Andred's wood,
fragments of which (buried roots and
branches) are still discovered in a
tract called the Dowles (Sax. daelan,
to divide). The Bother, which now
passes S. of Appledore, anciently ran
hence across the marshes to Rom
ney; and it was up this channel
(from Eomney) that the Danish
pirates, under Hasten, passed, when
they estabhshed themselves at Ap
pledore in 894.
The ch., which stands close beside,
c

26 Route 16.— Hastings to Ashford — Isle of Oxney. Sussex.
the Military Canal, is ded. to SS.
Peter and Paul, niches for whose
effigies adorn the handsome W. front.
It is said to occupy the site of a
castle destroyed by the French in
1380, but the tower is plainly Norm.
with Perp. insertions, and a thick
covering of ivy veils some unusual
masonry, especially in a projection
from the N. side of the nave, resem
bling that of Northiam, Sussex (Ete.
15), which may be Saxon. On the
S. side is a chantry with tomb, be
lieved to belong to the extinct family
of Horne, of Horne Place. The ch.
was partially restored by the late
Abp. Sumner, and contains a good
Perp. font, with the royal arms and
the arms of the see.
At Home Farm (1 m. N.W. of
the ch., and occupying the site of the
old manor-house) is a late Dec.
chapel. The house is modern, but
the chapel retains its original win
dow-frames and its open roof with
carved brackets, and has a groined
vault beneath.
[2 m. W. of Appledore is Ebony,
where the present very small ch. is
the second in succession to a larger
one built by the monks of Christ
Church, Canterbury. 3 m. S.W. of
Ebony is Wittersliam, with a good
Perp. ch., the living of which was
once held by Beilby Porteus, after
wards Bp. of London. Stone lies 3
m. E. of Wittersham ; the ch. (re
stored) has a good Perp. tower. The
3 parishes form the Isle of Oxney, a
district 6 m. long, 3 in. broad, lying
between two branches of the Bother
(one of them bears the name of the
Tweed \ and famous for its fertile
cattle-feeding marshes. It is a plea
sant spot, and has a literary institute
and a horticultural society, whose
flower-shows are of some cele
brity. In the garden of the vicar
age at Stone is preserved an ancient
altar (Brito-Roman ?), which, hefore
its removal there, had, time out of
mind, been kept in the eh. It had

figm-es of oxen on its four sides, only
one of which is now perfect. At tbe
foot is an iron ring, for securing the
victims (?) ; and vestiges of the iron
lining to the basin existed until
very recently. This altar seems to
illustrate the name of the district,
" Oxney " — the cattle-island. J
Beyond Appledore, the railway
crosses the Military Canal and leaves
the marshes.
At 20 m. see Kenardinglon, 1 m. W.
Near the chm-ch, which has a curious
wooden tower, is a British earth
work of considerable size, connected
by a narrow causeway with a second
in the marsh below. The forms of
both are hregular.
The Church of Woodchurch, 2J m.
N.W., is E.E. and has some remains
of stained glass. It has been well
restored. Brass: Nichol de Gore, c.
1320 ; the figure wears the chasuble,
and is placed in the midst of a
floriated cross. In this ch. is buried
Simon de Woodchurch, present with
Edward I. at the siege of Carlave-
rock, and renowned as "Malleus
Scotorum " — the " Hammer " of the
Scots. Close to the line on W. at 20
m. is the ch. of Warehorne, a large
E. E. building, with Peip. tower
(restored). Some remarkable painted
glass in this church is described in
Arch. Cant., vol. iv.
21 m. Ham Street (Stat.).
Just beyond the station on N. is
the ch. of Orleston, a very small build
ing. Eastward, along the line of the
Military Canal, are Euckinge, Bil-
sington, and Bonnington.
At Bilsington are some remains
of a priory of Augustinian canons,
founded about 1253 by John Mansell,
Henry III.'s great counsellor — "the
wealthiest clerk in Christendom," —
who entertained the Kingsof England
and Scotland at a dinner of which the

Sussex. Route 17. — London to Brighton — Worth.

27

first course consisted of 700 dishes.
The Priory stands on high ground,
having a good view over the marsh.
Part of the ancient buildings have
been worked into the present farm
house. Near the church is an obe
lisk to the memory of Sir R. W.
Cosway, a Kentish celebrity of the
Reform Bill period, killed by a stage
coach accident in 1834.
At Bonnington, the veiy small ch.
is ded. to St. Eumbald ; § m. E. are
the ruins of Hurst chapel, near which
was Hurst House, the Jacobite refuge
(Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 14.)
At 25 m. on W. is Kings/north,
where a branch of the Stour takes its
rise. The ground is very marshy,
and, perhaps for that reason, several
old houses in the parish are moated.
27J m. Ashford Jtjnc. (Hdbk.
Kent, Ete. 2). Railways: to London
and Dover; to Canterbury, Rams-
gate, and Margate.

ROUTE 17.
LONDON TO BRIGHTON, BY CROYDON
AND REDHILL JUNCTION [WORTH,
HURSTPIERPOINT].
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway.)
50J m. from London Bridge to
Brighton. Westend Stations at Vic
toria, and Addison Road, Kensington.
A first-rate \-harse coach runs daily

in summer, 3 days a week in winter,
from White Horse Cellar, in 5 hrs.,
to Brighton, by Croydon, Merstham,
and Cuckfield.
For the route from either of the
above stations to Horley (25J m.)
see Handbook for Surrey. The dis
tances given are from London
Bridge ; from Victoria they are J m.,
and from Kensington 1 m. more.
1. Earlsicood Asylum for Idiots,
founded 1846, receives 325 inmates.
1 m. beyond Horley the line-
enters on the Weald clay ; and shortly
after, crossing the boundary of Sus
sex, we reach
29J m. Theee Bridges Jtjnct.
Stat., named from the numerous
bridges which here cross the little
river Mole. On E. is the line to East
Grinstead (Ete. 22) and Tunbridge
Wells (Ete. 15) ; on W. the Mid-
Sussex branches (Etes. 23, 24, 25)
to Petworth, Midhurst, Arundel, and
Ford Junct.
[About IJ m. S.E. of Three
Bridges station is the httle Church of
Worth, well known to archaeologists
from its affording the only perfect
specimen of an Anglo-Saxon ground-
plan that remains. It stands very
picturesquely on a rising ground,
encircled by trees. The lich-gate,
through which the churchyard is
entered, N.W., is of some anti
quity. The ch. itself is cruciform,
consisting of a nave, N. and S.
transepts, and chancel, with a cir
cular apse at the E. end. The
walls are covered with plaster, but
are built of roughly-squared stones,
and rubble. The nave and transepts
have external quoins of long-and-
short work. The great Saxon pecu
liarities are of course the external
bands of stone, one of which was
carried as a stringcourse round the
whole building at half the height
of the walls. This is supported by
pilasters of irregular long-and short
work, which rest in their turn on a
o 2

28

Route 17. — London to Brighton — Worth. Sussex.

projecting double course of stone.
This base is in 2 stages, of which the
upper recedes, and " reminds us of
the graduate phnths in classical
architecture, from which it may have
been derived through debased ex
amples existing in this country." —
W. S. Walford, in Suss. Arch. Coll.
The stringcourses of nave and chan
cel are of different heights — possibly
a proof that the 2 portions were not
built at once. Stringcourse, base,
and pilasters are now defective in
many parts. There is no evidence
that the pilasters were ever carried
above the stringcourse, although at
Corhampton, Hants, they reach quite
to the roof; These stone bandings
are thought to have been derived
from the earher wooden churches,
some features of which were thus
copied in stone.
The external buttresses and masses
of masonry are all modern. The
doorways, W. and S., are insertions
of the Dec. period. The chancel
arch has some rude ornament ; those
of the transepts are quite plain. In
the E. side of N. transept is the only
window that can be original ( W. S.
Walford), small, and semicircular.
In the Dec. window over the W.
door are the arms of De Warrene.
The roof is unhappily ceiled, and
flat. The font is remarkable, and
formed of 2 basins, one above the
other; why so placed is uncertain.
Although the Saxon architecture
and plan of this ch., which was
subjected to a "destructive" resto
ration in 1870, are generally admitted,
its date must nevertheless be placed
within the 11th cent. It may have
been the work of some Saxon " eorl "
who fixed himself here among the
forests for the sake of their " wild
deer." (W. S. W.) It afterwards
became part of the barony of Lewes,
and continued in the hands of the
De Warrenes until 1347, when it
passed to the Fitzalans.
The forest of Worth still retains
its name, and extends far into the

adjoining parishes. Tilgate forest
was formerly considered a portion of
it. The scenery is wild and pleasant.
The ground is well broken ; patches
of heath and birch-wood occur in all
directions ; and some fragments of
the older and more " patrician " forest
still linger here and there. The
artist may wander here with advan
tage, and will find more and more
work for his portfolio as he reaches
the higher ground toward the E. A
long but very pleasant walk may be
taken from Worth to Wakehurst
Place and Ardingly Church, return
ing to the railway at Balcombe ; but
in arranging such a round take note
that very few trains either way stop
at Balcombe.
A peculiar sandstone is much dug
in the parish of Worth, " of a white,
pale fawn or yellow colour, occa
sionally containing leaves and stems
of ferns and other plants." — Mantell.
Here and in Tilgate forest, in wet,
heathy spots, occurs the rare lichen,
Scyphophorus microphyllus.']
From Three Bridges the railway
passes through Tilgate forest — here
of no great importance — until it
reaches 33| m. Balcombe (Stat.).
Here is a little inn in which the
tourist will find tolerable accommo
dation whilst botanising or geolo
gising throughout the neighbouring
district. For the general character
of the Wealden formation (of which
Tilgate forest consists) see Intro
duction. It was the delta of a vast
river, and contains the remains of
palms and tree-ferns, mixed with
those of enormous reptiles, of all
which ample notices will be found
in Dr. Mantell's Fossils of Tilgate
Forest. The first teeth and bones
of the Iguanodon, and the first
enormous fragments of the Hylseo-
saurus, were discovered here by Dr.
Mantell. The forest contains 1500
acres ; but the woodland scenery ou
this side is not equal to that about

Sussex.

Route 17. — West Hoathly — Slaugham.

29

Worth. Balcombe Church is partly
E.E. [Ardingly Church (about 2 m. S.E.)
has some good Dec. portions. The
porch is of wood, and ancient. In
the chancel is the stone effigy of an
unknown lady ; another of a knight,
probably one of the Wakehursts ; and
on the floor are many Brasses, chiefly
Colepepers of Wakehurst (1504-1634 .)
The best, however, is of Eichard
Wakehurst and his wife Elizabeth,
1457, on a Perp. tomb in the chancel.
The husband's is a good example of
the ordinaiy costume at this period.
Wakehurst Place (Lord A. Hill), a
short distance N. of the ch:, was
the seat of the Wakehursts. It
passed to the Colepepers, one of
whom, in 1590, built the present
picturesque mansion, restored by the
Marchioness of Downshire, 1870,
and worth a visit.
In this parish is St. Saviour's, a
Church of England public school
for the sons of poor gentlemen,
small tradesmen, mechanics, and
others of small incomes. The charge
for board and education is only 15
guineas per annum. The College is
situated about a mile to the S. of
the village, and commands extensive
and beautiful views of the valley of
the Ouse. It will now (1876) accom
modate 400 boys, but it is intended,
when completed, to afford accommo
dation for 1000. This is one of the
Sussex group of schools belonging to
St. Nicolas' College, Lancing.
West Hoathly, 3 m. N.E. of Ar-
dingly, has a Ch. with some E. E.
portions. At the tower entrance
(used as stepping-stones) are 2 iron
grave-slabs for members of the Infield
family— a use to which theSussex iron
was not unfrequently applied. (The
Swedish and Norwegian iron has
been used in the same manner ; there
are some elaborately-worked slabs in
the churchyard of the cathedral of
Trondhjem.) About J m.W. of the ch.,
on the summit of a sandstone cliff, is
a mass of rock, weighing about 300

tons, and poised on the very point of
another. Its local name is " Great
upon Little." It is not a logan rock ;
and there seems no reason to regard
it as in any way connected with
Druidism, though some early anti
quaries found in it the shapeless em
blem of the British deity Andrast,
whose name has also been traced in
that of the Andreds - wooi, in the
midst of which stands " Great upon
Little." Dr. Guest, however, sug
gested, and with far greater proba
bility, that the true etymology of
this great forest, which covered all
Sussex N. of the chalk hills, is an,
the Celtic negative prefix, and tred,
a dwelhng — i. e. "the uninhabited
region." The scenery of all this sandstone
district has much beauty and variety,
and will well repay the tourist in
search of the picturesque. It belongs
to the class of which Tunbridge
Wells and its neighbourhood is a
good type.
Gravelye, in Hoathly parish, is a
good stone Elizabethan mansion,
with terraced gardens.
Siddlesfield, or Selsfield Common,
N. of W. Hoathly Church, was for
merly a beacon station, and com
mands fine and very wide views over
parts of Kent, Surrey, and Sussex.]
|Tn the village of Slaugham (3 m.
W. of Balcombe) are some remains of
Slaugham Place, the ancient resi
dence ofthe Coverts, a family of great
distinction here during the reigns of
Elizabeth and James I., when their
manors, says tradition, extended
" from Southwark to the sea." In
the ch. are some early stained glass,
and several Brasses of the Coverts : —
John Covert, 1503; Lady Fetty-
place, his daughter, 1586 ; and a
remarkable one for Eichard Covert
and his 3 wives, 1547. He is stand
ing in his coffin, staff in hand, looking
toward a figure of the Saviour rising
from His sepulchre.]
Wykehurst is the stately mansion
of Henry Huth, Esq., built 1872, by

30

Route 17. — London to Brighton — Cuckfield. Sussex.

E. M. Barry, architect, in the French
style, at a cost of 35,000?., with all the
appliances and comforts of modern
civilization. At 2 m. beyond Balcombe the
railway crosses the Viaduct over
the river Ouse, one of the longest in
the kingdom, constructed at a cost
of 58,000^. It has 37 arches, about
60 feet high at the centre of the
viaduct. The entire length is more
than J m. 2 m. beyond we reach
37| m. Hayward's Heath (Stat.).
There is a tolerable Inn close to the
station, where carriages are to be
hired. From this point some inte
resting country is accessible.
[Cuckfield, 2 m. W. (Inn: the
King's Head), lifts its E. E. ch.-tower
among pleasant, wooded scenery.
The Church, originally E. E., has
had much Perp. addition. It con
tains monuments by Flaxman and
Westmacott. Cuckfield Park (W. Sergison, Esq.)
dates from the end of the 16th cent.,
and is the Rookwood Hall of Ains-
worth's romance. " The general
features of the venerable structure,
several of its chambers, the old
garden, and in particular the noble
park, with its spreading prospects,
its picturesque views of the hall,
'like bits of Mrs. Radcliffe' (as
the poet Sheiley once observed
of the same scene), its deep glades
through which the deer come lightly
tripping down, its uplands, slopes,
brooks, brakes, coverts, and groves
are carefully delineated." — Introd. to
Rookwood. The prototype of the
fatal tree, from which a bough al
ways fell on the approaching death
of its owner, was also found here.
It is an enormous time, standing in
the avenue that leads up to the
house, and preserved with all the
veneration due to so mysterious a
family guardian. Other ancient
houses in this neighbourhood are
Borde Hill (Col. M'Adam), Slough,
and Tye. Ockenden House (Sir W. W.

Burrell, M.P.), adjoining the village,
was the residence of Timothy Burrell,
whose very curious journal (1683-
1714) will be found in the Sussex
Arch. Coll., vol. iii. "Pandoxavi,
Pandoxavi," writes the worthy Sus
sex squire on his brewing days,
illustrating the entry by a sketch
of a beer-barrel. In the S. part of
the parish is Leigh Pond, covering
about 50 acres, and a favourite re
sort of wild-fowl during the winter
months. The geologist should visit
the quarries on the hill above Cuck
field. They were at one time very
productive, and the usual Wealden
fossils may still be obtained from
them. Bolney, 3 m. S.W. of Cuckfield, has
a Perp. ch., picturesquely situated
above the village. The neighbour
hood is very beautiful ; and the
Adur has here become a " troutful
stream," though of no great size.
St. Leonard's forest (see Rte. 23)
extends into the northern part of the
parish, which is entirely woodland.
There are grand views over the
downs, and toward the Hampshire
hills, from Bolney Common, famous
for its cherry-trees and camomile.
Coombe House and Bolney Manor in
this parish are both houses of some
antiquity. The Church of Twineham, 2 m. S. of
Bolney, is entirely of brick, and of un
certain date. Hicksted Place, an an
cient house in this parish adjoining
the Brighton road, has its walls orna
mented with great blocks of brick
earth, worked into crosses and other
devices. Such enormous bricks are
still made in the county (Hussey).]
[Lindfield, 2 m. E. of Hayward's
Heath, is in the midst of a most pic
turesque district, still more interest
ing, especially as it stretches farther
N.E., than that on the W. side of
the railway. Lindfield Church is for
the most part Perp., the tower pos
sibly E. E. Here is a very unusual
sepulchral effigy, impressed or in
cised on 3 glazed tiles, — the entire

Sussex. Route 17. — Hursted Keynes — Ditchling Beacon.
size 45 in. by 15, each tile 15 in.
square. The date is 1520. There
are many wooden houses in the long,
pleasant village street. The par
sonage also deserves notice.
In this neighbourhood is Pax
Hill, an Elizabethan house, built
about 1606, and worth looking at.
Other old houses are Kenwards,
once belonging to the Challoners ;
Lunt, to the Hamlyns ; and East
Mascalls, to the Newtons. All 3 are
now farmhouses.
From Lindfield, through a lovely
country, richly wooded, and affording
glimpses of the distant South Downs
through the outspreading boughs,
the tourist may visit Horsted Keynes,
3 m. N.E. TheC/rarcAismainlyE.E.,
and contains a small cross-legged
effigy 27 in. in length. Similar ones
exist at Mappowder, Dorset ; Long
Wittenham, Berks ; Tenbury, Glou
cestershire ; and Little Hempstead,
Devon. The date is early in the reign
ofEdward I. Tho ringsof mail arenot
marked, and were perhaps painted.
The effigy probably represents one
of the Keynes family, who may have
gone to the Holy Land with Edward
I. This Norman family was spread
over various counties in the S. of
England : Cheney seems to be the
same name — Cahaignes in Normandy
was its cradle. In the S. chancel is
buried the excellent Abp. Leighton,
d. June 3, 1684. The slab records
bis name only, but an altar-tomb
has been erected in the churchyard,
S. side of chancel, in recent times.
After his resignation of the arch
bishopric of Glasgow, he spent 10
years at Broadhurst in this parish,
preaching in all the neighbouring
churches, and practising what he
preached. During his sermons, "I
never once," says Bp. Burnet, " saw
a wandering eye." Broadhurst, now
a farmhouse, is worth a visit. Notice
" the heavy shield of wood, suspended
over the staircase, which when let
down at night and. strongly barred,

31

precluded all access to the sleeping-
rooms." — Arch. Cant., vol. i.
The edifying journal of Giles
Moore, rector of Horsted 1655-79,
supplies a picture of Sussex life
before the period when Squire
Burrell of Cuckfield takes up the
tale. (Suss. Arch. Coll., i.) His
various troubles and expenses, and
how he became " obnubilatus" with
certain perry, " not knowing how
strong the liquor was," are all care
fully recorded.]
Near the tunnel close beyond the
Hayward's Heath station a good
section is exposed of the Wealden
sand, sandstone, shale, and blue marl,
or oak-tree clay, to a depth of about
36 yds.
The river Adur, on its way to the
sea at Shoreham, is crossed at 40 m.
From the rly. bridge the passing
traveller may obtain a fine view in
a W. direction.
40f m. Keymer Junction. Hence
runs on 1. the line to Lewes, &c.
(Ete. 18).
41J m. Burgess Hill (Stat.).
On St. John 's Common, W., a hand
some Dec. Church has been erected,
cruciform, with tower and lofty spire,
and built of red brick, with Bath
stone dressings ; the interior is very
chastely ornamented.
43J m. Hassock's Gate (Stat,)
(" Hassock," in thelocal dialect, signi
fies a thick coppice, or small wood).
From this point much interesting
country is commanded on either side.
Carriages may be had at an Inn
near the station, but the pedestrian
who climbs the S. Downs from this
point, will have the advantage in
every way.
[Eastward, he should make for
Ditchling Beacon (about 3 m. S.E.
from the station, 858 ft. above sea-
level), the highest point of the whole
S. chalk range, of which the northern

32

Route 17. — London to Brighton — Keymer. -Sussex.

escaipment is here unusually bold.
In clear weather the views are very
grand, commanding nearly the whole
of Sussex, and a glittering border of
sea. On the summit are the remains
of. a square intrenchment, probably
Eoman. The ancient " via" up the
N. face of the downs still exists,
except at the lower part, where a
chalk pit has destroyed it. The
walk into Lewes from this point,
along the crests of the hills (about
6 m.), is one of the finest to be
had in the county, and will give
an excellent notion of the downs
themselves, with their " deans" and
" combes," all marked with green
fairy rings, and solitary Celtic bar
rows. Mount Harry, the scene of
the great battle, lies about half-way.
(See Ete. 18.)
The Church of Keymer, (1 m. from
the station) through which village
the pedestrian will pass on his way
to the Beacon, has a plain circular
chancel arch, which may be Saxon.
That oi Ditchling (1 m.) is also worth
notice. It has Trans.-Norm. (nave
and aisle) and rich E. E. portions
(tower, transepts, and chancels).
S. of the ch. is a picturesque old
house, now converted into shops.
At Plumpton Place, close under
the downs, about 5 m. from Lewes,
is an old moated house, once the seat
of the Mascalls. Leonard Mascali,
who hved here temp. Hen. VIII., is
said to have introduced the carp to
this county from the Danube ; and
the first of this species brought into
England were turned into the moat
here, three sides of which still re
main. The golden pippin, which
he is also said to have introduced,
has however been claimed as a native
of Sussex, and its birthplace fixed at
Parham Bark.
Street Place, a fine James I. house,
nearer the Lewes branch of railway,
was the ancient seat of the Dobells.

It is now a farmhouse. The room
which was once the library has pilas
ters of carved work, and a cornice full
of Latin mottoes such as the royal
Solomon himself affected. The house
contained a curious hiding-place, en
tered from the great hall chimney.
During the civil wars, runs a marvel
lous tradition, a horseman, pursued
by a company of Roundhead troopers,
galloped into thehall, and disappeared
in this recess ; neither he nor his
horse could ever be found afterwards.
In the ch. adjoining is a tablet to
Mrs.' Martha Cogger, who was, it
appears, "A pattern of Piety and
Politeness" — a double P which as
suredly should never be disunited.
West of Hassock's Gate, the first
point of interest is Hurstpierpoint.
The village lies about 2£ m. from
the station. Like the hursts of the
Kentish Weald, the country here
shows a deep clay, in which grow
"okes grete," such as Chaucer loved
to paint, with all their accompani
ments. The Church of Hurstpier
point was rebuilt by Sir Charles
Barry, in the Dec. style ; its doors
are always open— a proceeding from
which no ill results have followed,
and which might well be imitated
elsewhere. In the S. transept is a
much shattered cross-legged effigy
(temp. Hen. III.); and in the N.
aisle another of a knight (temp.
Edw. III.) ; neither has been satis
factorily appropriated. There are
wide views from the churchyard.
Leith Hill, in Surrey, is visible, N. ;
E. the prospect extends to Ashdown
Forest; and S. is the long green line
of the Downs.
The Manor, with its ancient park,
lying N. of the ch., belonged to the
Pierrepoint family until it passed
into the hands of the Dacres, temp.
Edw. IV. It now belongs to W. H.
Campion, Esq., whose seat, Danny,
like other Elizabethan houses, lies
close under the downs. The house
is of brick, and dates from 1595.

Sussex.

Route 17. — Brighton.

33

The park contains some of the
grandest oaks in the neighbour
hood. On Wolstanbury Hill, at the
back of the house, is a circular camp,
probably British.
St. John's College, a middle-class
school, founded in connexion with
that at Lancing (see Lancing, Ete. 21,
for a notice of the full scheme),
stands off the road, about 2 m. N.
of the Hassock's Gate station and
$ m. from the village of Hurst. The
building was designed by Carpenter,
in excellent Gothic of Edw. IH.'s
time, and is worth seeing. It con
tains accommodation for 300 boys,
sons of farmers and small traders, for
whom a good education is provided.
The ordinary expenses of education
and board are fixed at 182. 18s. per
annum ; but there are one or two
special classes for which the terms
are somewhat higher.
A walk from Hurstpierpoint to
Brighton, over and among the downs,
may be safely recommended to the
pedestrian. The distance is about
9 m. About 1 m. S. of the Hassock's
Gate station is the little Church of
Clayton, in which is a round, massive
chancel arch resembling those called
Saxon. The chancel is E. E. : " at
the E. end of N. waU of nave ap
pears an arch, now filled up, with
marks of a roof over it." — Hussey.
The whole building deserves notice.]
Below Clayton the rail pierces the
line of the S. Downs by a Tunnel
above 1 m. in length, the excava
tion of which cost upwards of 90,000?.
Deep chalk cuttings and the shorter
Patcham tunnel succeed. Some part
of Stanmer Park (Earl of Chichester)
then is seen E., then comes
49 m. Preston (Stat.), in a wooded
vale. 1. The high curved viaduct, cross
ing the valley, carries the Lewes and
Hastings Rly.

50 J m. Brighton Stat, high up
on the Downs, but near the central
part of Brighton. The Pop. of
Brighton in 1801 was but 7339, and
in 1811, 12,012. At present it is
(including Hove) more than 100,000,
with an average of 25,000 visitors.
Railways : to Lewes (post) ¦ to
Hastings, by Lewes (Ete. 20); to
Chichester and Portsmouth (Bte. 21) ;
to Horsham (Rte. 23) ; to Arundel,
Amberley, and Petworth (Rte. 24) ¦
to Steyning (Kte. 25). From the
Brighton Central Station a branch
line runs to the E. end of the town,
that is to say, to near Kemp Town.
Hotels : Grand, King's Eoad ;
* Bedford, good family and bachelors'
quarters ; *Eoyal Albion, Old Steyne;
Norfolk, Old Ship, Royal York, Bris
tol, East Cliff; all first-class (of course
high in their charges), and all facing
the sea. Second-class, but still good,
are the Pier, New Ship, New Steyne,
and very many more. In Brighton,
as in London, every class of hotel is
to be found ; in all, the charges in
crease according to the season. The
price of houses and lodgings varies
according to the sea-view. It is,
however, at all times an expensive
place of residence, the cost of living
and house-rent being at least one-
third more than in London.
Post-office in Ship St. ; pillar posts
in all parts. Several mails daily to
and from London.
Flys to hold 4, 3s. an hour, ls. Gd.
every J hour after, or ls. per mile,
and Gd. every additional £ mile.
Omnibus to the railway, and along
both cliffs.
Libraries. — Treacher's and Page's,
both in North St.
Confectioners. — Booth's, East St. ;
Mutton's, King's Eoad.
The principal baths are Brills'.
There are machines at different
stations along the strand, but the
beach is shingle, without sand.
Since the Reform Bill, Brighton
03

34

Route 17. — Brighton.

Sussex.

has had two M.Ps. Before the rail
way was completed more than 30
coaches ran daily to and from London,
and even now a well-appointed one
runs daily in summer, being patron
ized for the sake of the very beautiful
scenery on the old road through Eei-
gate, Crawley, and Hurstpierpoint.
The railway has, in fact, made
Brighton the marine suburb of Lon
don, to which city it serves as a
" lung " almost as effectually as Hyde
Park. It is the point nearest to Lon
don at which the open sea can be
reached ; and the dryness of its
chalky soil, together with its com
paratively warm climate, recommend
it, especially during the months
of November and December, to
the aged and invalids. It is most
frequented in autumn and winter.
"It is the fashion to run down
George IV. [a fashion in which Mr.
Thackeray too often indulged him
self); but what myriads of Lon
doners ought to thank him for in
venting Brighton ! One of the best
physicians our city has ever known
is kind, cheerful, merry Doctor
Brighton. Hail thou purveyor of
shrimps, and honest prescriber of
South Down mutton ; no fly so plea
sant as Brighton flys ; nor any cliffs
so pleasant to ride on ; no shops so
beautiful to look at as the Brighton
gimcrack-shops, and the fruit-shops,
and the market. I fancy myself in
Mrs. Honeyman's lodgings in Steyne
Gardens, and in enjoyment of all
these things.'' — Thackeray, New-
comes, vol. i.
For a passing traveller there is
little worth seeing at Brighton ex
cept the wide expanse of sail-less
sea, and the sunny drive, and ter
races extending for 3 miles along
the cliffs fronting the sea ; but all
who love stir and bustle, gay bon
nets, and groves of parasols, may
select Brighton as their watering-
place. It is the largest in the world,
and a greater mixture is to be
found here than in any other bathing

town. In its streets all classes meet
and jostle with as much variety as
in Pall Mall, and its rows of white
terraces might have walked out from
Hyde Park or Belgravia. What
London cannot give, however, is the
boundless sweep of open channel,
or the famous Piers, " where for the
sum of twopence you can go out to
sea and pace the vast deep without
need of a steward with a basin."
There is no beauty in the to wn itself ;
and the "pinnacles of the beloved
George " provoke any feelings rather
than those of admiration.
Brighthelmstane claims to derivo
its name from an early bishop of
Selsea : but who the original Bright-
helm may in truth have been is alto
gether unknown. After the Conquest
the manor was granted to the Earls
de Warrene, and a fishing-village
was established here, which seems
to have speedily attracted Flem
ings from the opposite coast — better
fishermen than the descendants of
Wilfrid's S. Saxons (Selsey, Ete. 21).
The fishing-village lay under the
cliff, and its inhabitants— jugs as they
were called — traded with their wares
to all the neighbouring inland towns.
On the top of the cliff was a small
colony of landsmen, between whom
and the jugs was no good feeling.
The village, like all the others along
this coast, suffered from French
attacks during a period of at least
three centuries. Early in the 17th
the sea began its encroachments ;
and the lower, or fishing town, all
but disappeared. From this and
other causes Brighton declined more
and more until about 1750, when a
change in its fortunes commenced.
At this time Dr. Eussell, of Lewes,
first drew attention to Brighton as a
bathing-place ; and soon after, fine
London ladies were prevailed on to un
dertake the perilous journey through
the wilds of Sussex, for the sake
of the bracing sea air and the pro
menades on the Steyne, then open and

Sussex.

Route 17. — Brighton.

35

unbuilt upon. Mrs. Thrale was here
in 1770, accompanied by Dr. Johnson
and Fanny Burney — who records the
" loyal satisfaction " with which she
looked on the King's Head Inn — at
which Charles II. spent the night
before embarking at Shoreham (see
Shoreliam, Ete. 21). " His black-wig-
ged Majesty," she tells us, "has from
the time of the Eestoration been its
sign." (It still exists in West Street;
the original sign was The Georges.)
Houses increased, however, but slow
ly, until the end of the century, when
the Prince of Wales established
himself here, and built the first Pa
vilion. Brighton was first visited by
him in 1782. The Pavilion was com
menced in 1 784, and additions made
at intervals until 1817, when the
building was altogether changed;
some parts pulled down; and the
rest, with vast additions, converted
into the wonderful pile with which
all the world is acquainted. Under
this royal patronage, the reputation
of Brighton was effectually esta
blished. The Chain Pier was built ;
houses spread out in all directions,
covering the cliffs and the downs ;
and between 1820 and 1830 the place
was converted from » comparatively
quiet village to the vast pleasure
town which it now is. The rly. has
since brought it within 2 hours of
London; and there is no sign of
check to its rapidly increasing streets
and terraces. The best squares and
houses are : — on the W. Cliff, Re
gency Square, Palmeira Square,
Brunswick Square, and Place, and
Adelaide Place ; on the E. Cliff,
Sussex Square, Kemp Town. East
Street is the place of business, and
there are some good shops in it and
on W. Cliff.
As one result of the healthy situa
tion and favourable climate, boys'
and girls' schools abound ; probably
there are not fewer than 200 private
schools in Brighton.
The chief relic of Old Brighton
is the Church of St. Nicholas, about

which the tide of new building has
risen, but which formerly stood on
high open ground, a landmark for
the fishermen, as indeed it still
is. The building itself, long and
low to escape the wind, originally
Dec, was restored, or rather rebuilt,
1853, as a memorial of the Duke
of Wellington, who was for some
time a pupil of the Eev. H. M.
Wagner, Vicar here, and accustomed
to attend this ch. The original Perp.
screen has been gilt and painted.
The E. window, with its stained
glass of the miraculous draught,
recalls Rubens' famous picture in
the chapel of the Fishmongers' guild
at Mechlin. The ancient font is
Norm., circ, and surrounded by rude
sculptures. On one side is the Last
Supper (remark the unusual nimbus
encircling the Saviour's head, and
the pallium which he wears) ; the
other subjects have not been ascer
tained. In the chantry S. of the chancel
is the so-called Wellington Memo
rial, a richly decorated cross, about 18
ft. high. An inscription below records
the restoration of the ch. in memory
of the Great Duke. Within a cano
pied niche at the top is a figure of St.
George. The design is by Carpenter.
In the churchyard (not open to the
public) are the momnuental stones of
Captain Tattersall, " through whose
prudence, valour, and loyalty Charles
II. was faithfully preserved and con
veyed to France, 1651 " (see Shore
ham, Ete. 21) ; of Phoebe Hessell,
who, though of the gentler sex, served
for many years as a private in the
5th Regiment of Foot, fought and
was wounded at Fontenoy, dying at
the age of 108 ; and of Mrs. Crouch,
the actress. The base of the church
yard-cross also remains.
The 2 best modern churches are St.
Peter's, at the end ofthe Steyne, built
1824, from a good modern Gothic de
sign by C. Bany, at a cost of 20,0001.,
and which has now the status of a
" Parish " church ; and St. Paul's, in

36

Route 17. — Brighton.

Sussex.

West Street, built by Mr. Carpenter
in 1847. The porch has medallion
basreliefs from the life of St. Paul.
These 2 churches mark well the
progress of the Gothic in this country
during a period of 20 years.
The Steyne, in name at least, be
longs, like St. Nicholas Church, to
Old Brighton. It was the rock
(stane) on which the fishermen dried
iheir nets ; and became the first
public promenade when Brighton
rose into fashion ; the downs at that
time stretching up from it on either
side. On the completion of the
Pavilion, in front of which it lies, the
Prince obtained permission to rail in
a part of the Steyne. Other altera
tions followed ; and in 1831 the pre
sent roads were cut through it.
Init is Chantrey's statue of George
IV., the presiding genius of Brighton,
and a fountain called The Victoria.
The Pavilion is the link between
Old and New Brighton. Although
Nash was the nominal architect, the
general conception is entirely due to
the Prince, whoseChinese sympathies
had been excited by the mission of
Lord Amherst, lt was occasionally
visited by William IV., but was
finally abandoned as a royal resi
dence by Queen Victoria, 1843, and
was bought in 1850, by the town of
Brighton, for 53,0002., and has since
been extensively "repaired and beau
tified." Its apartments are now used
for balls, concerts, lectures, exhibi
tions, and public meetings.
As an example of faded splendour,
incongruous taste, and jumble of
styles, Chinese, Moresque, and Hindoo,
it is worth while to walk through
the rooms of this deserted palace,
which cost more than a million ster
ling, first and last, in building and
altering. At the W. end, on the
ground-floor, are the suite of low
rooms occupied by George IV. A
military band plays here twice a week.
A large circular building, detached
from the rest, originally the Stables,
now serves as a Concert-room, and is

surmounted by a rich domed roof,
pierced with windows of coloured
glass. Few provincial towns in
England possess so fine and conve
nient a public hall as this one now
is. The approaches and offices are
excellent. Adjacent, but with dis
tinct entrances (in Church St.), are
a public Library, a Museum, and a
Picture Gallery.
Overlooking the Steyne (W.), and
adjoining the Pavilion, still exists
the house of Mrs. Fitzherbert.
The auxin Pier (1136 ft. long),
which is merely alounge, for Brighton
has no harbour and no packets, was
completed in 1823, at a cost of
30,000?,, and was the first constructed
in England, lt suffered much from
storms in 1824, 1833 and 1836; but
has since been greatly strengthened.
It is one of the grand Brighton pro
menades, scarcely less frequented
than the long Esplanade connecting
the cliffs, which rise E. and W. of
the town ; but it has a formidable
rival in the more handsome and
more crowded, but less pleasant,
West Pier completed 1866 at the
W., opposite Eegency Square. This
latter is 1115 ft. long and 45 wide,
at its narrowest part, and furnished
with glass screens.
Under the Cliff, close to the Pier,
is the * Aquarium, a marine zoological
garden, of the greatest interest, one
of the best sights in Brighton. The
collection is very large and well
kept. From the Chain Pier to Kemp
Town, a distance of about a mile,
the ciiff is protected by a sea-wall
of concrete, built in 1827, the cost
of which was about 100,000?. This
wall, 60 ft. high, 23 ft. thick at the
base, and 3 ft. at the summit, has
partially stopped the inroads of the
sea. Kemp Town, at the end of East
Cliff, was built, 1821-30, by Thomas
Read Kemp, Esq. It contains a
crescent 200 ft. wider than that at

Sussex. Route 17. — Devil's Dyke — Poynings — Preston.
Bath, and a, square, with houses
equal in size to those of Belgrave
Square in London. A tunnel leads
from the gardens down to the beach,
where there is a pleasant (private)
esplanade. Behind Kemp Town are
St. Mary's Hall, an excellent insti
tution for educating orphan'daughters
of clergymen as governesses, on pay
ment of 201. per annum; the Sussex
County Hospital, and a little further
W., Brighton College, a showy Tudor
edifice. Almost the only spot where trees
are to be seen near Brighton is the
Queen's Park, a prettily laid out
garden in a narrow valley running
up from the East Cliff, within which
stand several villas, designed by Sir
C. Barry, and the Royal German
Spa, where artificial mineral waters,
prepared according to the system
of Dr. Struve of Dresden, are ad
ministered to patients with effica
cious results.
The great defect of Brighton, one
inseparable from so large a town, is
the difficulty a pedestrian finds in
getting quickly into the country.
The Esplanades along the cliffs form
a good walk ; but the cliffs are some
distance from the centre of the town,
and the downs farther still.

37

Numerous Excursions of great in
terest are to be made from Brigh
ton. All the places in Sussex men
tioned in the former part of this
route, and in Etes. 18 and" 21, may
be visited by railway; and among
rides and drives are, the Devil's
Dyke, Preston, and Newhaven.
(a) The Devil's Dyke, 5£ m. N.W.
(omnibuses and large open waggo
nettes run daily from Brighton during
the summer, fare 2s.), is one of the
finest points of the downs, com
manding grand views in all directions.
The sharp, steep declivity has all the
look of "a trench cut by the hands
of giant excavators ; " an old Sussex
tradition has accordingly assigned

it to the Devil, or, as he is some
times called in Sussex, the "poor
man." It was intended to pierce
quite through the downs ; and the
"poor man's " object in digging it was,
to drown the churches of the Weald
by bringing in the sea on them. But
a neighbouring old woman, hearing
the work in progress, looked out of
her window, holding a candle in a
sieve. The " poor man " took it for
sunrise, and disappeared, leaving his
work half done. His foot-prints,
burnt in the turf, are still shown on
the edge of the dyke.
On the lofty crest which this dyke
divides from the lower range of
downs is an oval camp with broad
ditch and enormous rampart, about
1 m. in ch-cumference. Boman coins
have been found here — no proof, of
course, of the origin of the work,
which is probably British. The
view, over the Weald of Sussex on
one side, and toward the sea on the
other, is best seen by following the
line of the rampart. There is a com
fortable Inn on the Dyke.
(b) The Chm-ch of Poynings, below
the dyke, N, and 5 m. from Brighton,
is early Perp. and of much interest.
It is cruciform, with square central
tower. An ancient thurible of carved
wood is in use as au alms-box. E.
of the ch.-yard are some traces of
the Manor-house, the residence ofthe
baronial family of Poynings from
the time of Henry II. to that of
Henry VII.
The Down scenery here will amply
repay wanderers.
(c) Preston, 2 m. N., deserves a visit,
as well for the quiet beauty of its
situation as for its little ch., which
is entirely E. E. On the wall of the
nave, either side of the chancel arch,
are some Very indistinct mural paint
ings, in red and yellow ochre, repre
senting on one side the murder of
Becket. All four Knights are present,
besides the Saxon monk Grim, who
extends his arm to shield the Abp.
On the other side is St. Micheal

38 Route 17. — London to Brighten — Rottingdean. Sussex.
numerous bones and teeth of the
fossil elephant, floated, it has been
suggested, to the Sussex coast by
icebergs, during extensive changes
which took place in the geological
period immediately antecedent to
the present. Similar relics are found
throughout all the valleys of the
S.E. and E. of England that open to
the sea. Very large ammonites are
sometimes found in the chalk, ex
posed at low water, along the shore
between Kemp Town and Eotting-
dean, besides fossil sponges of much
beauty.

with his scales. In the chancel is
the tomb of one ofthe Shirley family,
connected with, but not descended
from, the Shirleys of Wiston ; and in
the nave is the tombstone of " Francis
Cheynell, Doctor in Divinity, d. 1665,"
the fierce puritanical opponent of
Chilhngworth, whose grave even was
not safe from his violence. (See
Chichester, Rte. 21.) Douglas, the
author of the Nenia Britannica, the
first book which drew attention to
the sepulchral wealth of ancient Kent
and Sussex, is buried in the church
yard. The excursion may be continued
from Preston to Patcham (1^ m. N.),
where the ch. presents a curious
mixture of E. E., Dec, and Perp.
work, and on the return can be taken
Hollingsbury Castle (IJ m. S.E.),
overlooking Stanmer Park. The
camp is a square of 5 acres, and com
manded the passes from the coast
inland. About 3 m. distant from
it on either side are the camps on
Diteliling Beacon (ante) and White
Hawk Hill — the last a triple earth
work adjoining the Brighton race
course, and well known to the at
tendants at the Volunteer reviews.
(d) The drive toNewhaven, 9 m., by
Rottingdean (see Bte. 18),between the
sea and the downs, which here stretch
close down upon it, is a pleasant one ;
but the pedestrian has the advantage
of the best views, as he can pass in
many parts along the adjoining down,
whilst the carriage-road has several
deep cuttings, where the heat and
glare are intolerable on a summer
day. He can also take in Ovingdean,
which hes | m. N. of the cairiage-road.
The ch. (restored) contains Norm.
and E. E. portions. The Manor-
house is said, but inaccurately, to
have afforded shelter to Charles II.
before his departure from Shoreham.
To the geologist, the cliffs between
Kemp Town and Rottingdean (2 m.)
areof considerable interest, since they
contain occasional masses of cal
careous strata, in which are found

Bottingdean (Pop. 1544) is a very
quiet httle watering-place, not above
4 m. from the very centre of Brighton,
but offering the greatest possible
contrast to it. It has an E. E.
Church, in the walls of which por
tions of columns, &c, are noticeable ;
indicating the existence of an earlier,
and probably Saxon, building. Early
in the reign of Eichard II. theFrench,
after plundering numerous other
places on the S. coast, landed here,
with the intention of sacking Lewes
and its rich priory. But the Prior,
John de Cariloco, assembled his fol
lowers, and with some neighbouring
Knights proceeded to the downs
above Bottingdean. Here a "sore
scrymmysche " took place, in which
the Prior was defeated and made
prisoner ; the enemy, however, retired
without venturing farther inland.
About 2 m. N. of Bottingdean is the
little hamlet of Balsdean, lying quite
among the downs. A building called
the " Chapel " here, but now used as
a stable, is apparently Dec. It has
the ancient roof, thatched without.
The termination dean, frequent in
this neighbourhood, indicates a de
pression among the downs, not so
profound as the Coombe, which occurs
more frequently on the northern
side. From Rottingdean to New-
haven (5 m.) there is a choice of
routes for the pedestrian. He may
keep along the road at the top of

Sussex.

Route 18. — London to Seaford — Lewes.

39

the cliffs, or he may descend to the
beach at Saltdean Gap, 1 m. E., where
the coastguard will inform him as to
the state of the tide. If that should
be favourable, the rough walk will
be more than compensated by the
splendid view of the cliffs, particu
larly near Barrow Head, where a great
fort to defend Newhaven harbour is
in progress. For Newhaven, see
Rte. 18.
No lover of picturesque scenery
should leave Brighton without some
exploration of the South Downs. See
Introduction, and Ete. 18.
From Brighton there is a line of
rly. to Lewes (8 m.), forming a part
of the East Coast line. It leaves
Brighton by a lofty viaduct over the
Preston valley, skirts Stanmer Park
(Earl of Chichester), a pleasant place
open to the pedestrian, but is after
wards little less than an alternation
of cuttings and tunnels through the
chalk. The only stat. is at Falmer
(4j m.), which offers nothing to
detain the tourist.
From Lewes, Mayfield may be
reached via Rotherfield Stat., a day's
excursion from Brighton. See Rte.
22a. A very interesting return tour
from Brighton to London may be
made by proceeding, W., to Shore
ham Junction (Rte. 21), and thence
by Steyning to Horsham, Dorking,
and Epsom (Ete. 23), or from Hors
ham to Three Bridges (Ete. 25 j ; or
to Ford Junction (Ete. 21), and then
by Arundel aud Amberley (Rte. 24),
to the same places. The Eoman
Villa at Bignor (Ete. 21), is a long
excursion, but highly interesting.
These routes embrace some of the
most interesting places in Sussex,
and the Down scenery about Bignor
is of the finest kind, differing greatly
from that in the neighbourhood of
Brighton. The tour should be made
to occupy 2 or 3 days. See Rte. 21,
Exe. (d) from Chichester ; Rte. 24.

ROUTE 18.
LONDON TO LEWES, NEWHAVEN,
AND SEAFORD.
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway.)
For the route from London to
Keymer Junct., see Ete. 17. After
leaving this station the South Downs
are full in view, S., nearly the whole
way to Lewes.
44 J m. Plumpton (Stat.'). The ch.
(IJ m. S.) is small and plain. For
Plumpton Place see Ete. 17.
47J m. Cook's Brtdge (Stat.). On
S. a handsome modern church at
Offham Street.
50 m. Lewes Junction Stat, is
reached by a tunnel under the town
and castle, and itself occupies a por
tion of the site of the Priory. A
viaduct through the E. part of the
town, near the river, connects it
with the Uckfield and Tunbridge
Wells line. (Ete. 19.)
Eailways : to Brighton (Ete. 17) ;
to Newhaven and Seaford (post) ; to
Uckfield and Tunbridge Wells (Ete.
19) ; to East Bourne, Hailsham, and
Hastings (Rte. 20).
Lewes is one of the most pic
turesquely situated towns in the
S. of England. (Pop. 10,753. Inns:
the Star, good and old fashioned,
with a grand old staircase of carved
oak, brought here from Slaugham
Place, the ancient seat of the
Coverts (Ete. 17) : the cellar is an
tique and vaulted, and is said to have
served as a prison for many ofthe
Marian martyrs, some of whom were
burnt in the street fronting the

40 Route 18. — London to Seaford — Lewes : Castle. Sussex.
house. Other inns are the White
Hart and the Bear ; the former has
many patrons.)
The town of Lewes — perhaps from
Hlsew (Sax.), a hill (Lowes is the
old Sussex pronunciation : comp. the
Galloway " Loch of the Lowes ") —
which has grown up around the
ancient castle and priory, covers the
side of a steep hill in the very heart
of the South Downs, and at a point
where the surrounding heights are
unusually striking and elevated.
The views from the castle and from
the neighbouring hills will give the
best notion of its position, which to
some extent resembles that of Tot-
nes, in Devonshire, equally castle-
crowned, but Lewes can boast of
no bright river like the Dart. The
Ouse, which flows through the town,
is sufficiently muddy, strongly resem
bling its namesake at York ; but St.
Eichard of Chichester is recorded to
have had "good luck in his fishing"
from the bridge, and to have sent the
results as a present to the neigh
bouring Prior of St. Pancras. The
view from the High Street, looking
back into the face of the opposite
hilL especially under certain effects
of morning mist and sunshine, is very
peculiar and un-English. Those
from the suburbs of Southover and
Cliffe, the latter especially, are
scarcely less remarkable.
The main points of interest in the
town itself are the Castle, the Priory,
and some of the Churches. The
history of the town is in fact that of
the former two.
British names of localities, which
abound in the neighbourhood of
Lewes, prove the existence of a
Celtic settlement here. Boman
coins and remains have also been
found. Lewes had two mints
during the reign of Athelstane ; and
some specimens of its coinage are in
the possession of Mr. Ade of Milton
Court, neat Berwick, at which place
they were found. AftertheConquest,
Lewes was granted to Wilham Earl of

Warrene, whose Countess, Gundrada,
is usually called the daughter of
William I. (sed qusere). The town
had become important during the
Saxon period; and its castle either
already existed, or was now built
by William de Warrene, who in con
junction with his wife afterwards
built and endowed the priory of St.
Pancras in the meadows below. The
castle continued in the hands of the
Wan-enes until the extinction of
that great family in the 14th cent.,
when, with the barony, it passed
to the Fitzalans of Arundel. Dur
ing the Warrene period occurred
the battle of Lewes (May, 1264).
(See post.) Lewes was more than
once disturbed by French attacks on
the coast, but was never itself pil
laged. The town witnessed sundry
autos-da-fe during the reign of
Mary ; and the Nonconformists
troubled it much after the Restora
tion. From that time no marked
events have occurred to ruffle its
tranquillity. The Castle, whose "worm-eaten
hold of ragged stone " towers
grandly above the town in all dis
tant views, is approached from the
High Street by a turning called
Castle-gate, a short distance past the
County Hall in the direction of
St. Michael's Church. The gate
house, with battlements and machi
colations, is early Edwardian, and,
like all the existing remains, belongs
to the period of the De Warrenes.
" There are no loops for the raising
of the drawbridge, but the massive
hinges of the gates remain, as also
the grooves for a double portcullis."
— M. A. Lower. The original Norm.
gateway, with plain semicircular arch,
remains close within, and is in all pro
bability a fragment of the work of the
first Earl William. The enclosure
within this outer wall, forming the
outer ballium, or base court, was in
shape an irregular oval. At each ex
tremity is an artificial mound ; thus

Sussex.

Route 18. — Lewes : Pru

rxory.

41

giving Lewes Castle the very unusual
peculiarity of two keeps. The space
between the centres ofthe two mounds
measures nearly 800 feet. One of
these is occupied by the remains of
the existing .keep. On the other,
called the Brack mount, there are
traces of foundations which prove
that it was once crowned by a similar
mass of towers. The keep is reached
by a winding ascent close within the
gatehouse. Of its four octagonal
towers only two remain, clustered
with ivy aud hart's-tongue, and rising
from a thicket of ash-trees which
covers the base of the mound. These
towers are perhaps earlier than the
gateway, but date from a period long
after the Conquest, and are the work
of one of the later De Warrenes.
They can only be visited by strangers
on payment of a fee of 6d., because
the principal tower is rented by
the Sussex Archaeological Society,
whose museum is arranged in its
several storeys. This contains a few
local remains of interest — celts and
pottery from, the barrows which dot
the surface of the Downs, some relics
of the Sussex iron-works, and a col
lection of seals of the Cinque Ports
and their members. In a room above
are arranged rubbings from some of
the finest Sussex brasses, and frag
ments of carved stones from the
Priory ruins. But more striking than
anything in the Society's museum is
the view from the leads of the tower.
It extends N. over the forest-like
country of the Weald as far as Crow
borough, and the still more distant
line of the Surrey hills. S. is seen
Southover, with the winding ' Ouse,
and the gleam of the sea at New
haven; and, close below, the town
itself, with its trees and gardens, lies
scattered between the steep hills that
guard it; — Mount Harry, the scene
of the great battle, on one side, and
on the other Cliffe Hill and the
narrow, deeply shadowed Coombe.
The general position of the town is
well seen here. Although quite sur

rounded by hills, it nevertheless
stands at a point where the Ouse,
once a broad estuary as high as
Lewes, pierces them ; whilst under
Firle beacon, a valley (now traversed
by the railway) opens toward the
coast E. Lewes Castle therefore,
like Bramber and Arundel, guarded
one of the Sussex highways to and
from Normandy.
Less interesting than the Castle,
owing to its scanty remains, is the
venerable Priory of St. Pancras,
lying on low ground to the S. of
the town, and about J m. distant
from the Castle. In true old-world
fashion, the monk and the baron
divided the town between them. The
ruins are now leased to the Sussex
Archaeological Society, and tickets
to view them (id. each person) may
be had at the Post-office and the
Castle, but they are mere rough
walls, with scarcely a moulding left.
The rly. to Brighton passes directly
over the site of the great church of
the Priory; and whilst its interfer
ence with the ruins is to, be regretted,
the necessary excavations neverthe
less gave rise to one of the most
interesting of recent archaeological
discoveries — that of the coffins and
remains of William de Warrene, the
first Norm. Earl, and Gundrada his
wife, the builders of Lewes Castle,
and the founders of the Priory.
A small wooden chapel, dedicated to
St. Pancras (the first saint to whom
Augustine dedicated a ch. after his
arrival in England — see Canterbury,
Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 3), existed on this
spot before the Conquest. At Abp.
Lanfranc's suggestion, William and
Gundrada raised their priory here,
and rilled it with Cluniac monks ;
which order had received the Earl
and Countess at Clugny, when on
their way to Italy, with unusual hos
pitality. They were the first Clu-
niacs who were established in Eng
land, and their priory continued the
only one in the island for the next
150 years. Their introduction very

42

Route 18. — Jxondon to Seaford — Lewes.

Sussex.

probably formed part of Lanfranc's
plan for the reform of the Saxon
monasteries. "Intulit ecclesiis An-
glorum balsama morum," runs the
verse on Gundrada's tombstone.
Unlike the disciples of Benedict or
of Bernard, the Cluniacs (themselves
a branch of the Benedictines) pre
ferred a populous neighbourhood,
aud were distinguished by the
wealth of their churches and the
splendour of their services. The
election of the prior of Lewes was
always subject to the approval of the
Abbot of Clugny, of which famous
house Lewes was one of the "five
chief daughters;" and in the great
councils of the order its prior took
the second place. The close vicinity
of the coast, and the foreign con
nexion always kept up by the monks,
caused them to be regarded with
some distrust during the later
French wars ; and Edward III. (Oct.
4, 1338) directed the Bp. of Chichester
to remove the whole of the brethren
without delay to the Cluniac houses
farther from the sea. For this
distrust, however, there was not
always reason. Prior John de
Cariloco himself took part in a
" sore scrimmyshe " with the French
at Bottingdean in 1377, and was
made prisoner. The Priory was
large and stately. It was occupied
the night before the battle of Lewes
by Henry III. and his followers, who
are said to have made even the great
church a scene of such sacrilegious
revelry as called down the vengeance
of their defeat on the following day.
After the battle Prince Edward took
refuge here ; and the Priory was fired
by the barons, but the flames were
extinguished before great harm had
been done. At the Dissolution the
buildings were entirely dismantled,
the vaults and pillars " plucked
down" (so Portinari wrote to Crom
well), and the land sold. The site
was at first granted to Cromwell;
after reverting to the Crown it be
came the property of Thomas Sack

ville, Earl of Dorset ; and has since
passed through many hands. In this
Priory was educated Edmund Dudley,
the favourite of Henry VII., who, in
Lord Bacon's words, " took toll of his
master's grist," and was beheaded on
Tower Hill, together with his col
league Empson. Dudley's father is
sometimes said to have been the
carpenter of St. Pancras, although he
was really a person of noble descent.
The existing remains are very
scanty, and then- appropriation un
certain. The space enclosed be
tween two long walls, under which
a stream of water flows, has been
called the monastic kitchen, but in
all probability had a less honourable
destination. There are some frag
ments of late Norm, wall, and of a
winding stair, on which, says a tra
dition unrecognised by Mr. Froude,
Henry VIII. murdered one of his
wives. The pigeon-house, which
stood S.W. of the present ruins,
was taken down about 50 years since.
"It was cruciform, and equalled in
magnitude many a parish church."
There were 3228 pigeon-holes. Traces
of the monastic fish-ponds may still be
seen beyond the enclosure, S. But per
haps the most interesting fragment
is the so-called "Lantern" of the
Priory, standing farther back than
the great mass of the ruins, in the
garden of the proprietor. It is a
round building, underground, quite
dark, and entered through a narrow
passage of some length, from what
was originally a vaulted crypt (now
covered by the railway). The Lan
tern itself, there seems to be no
doubt, was the prison of the mona
stery, in which the refractory monk
was secluded — sometimes in chains
(see Ducange, s. v. 'Laterna;' and
the Cluniac statutes of Peter the
Venerable).— Suss. Arch. Coll. There
is a similar recess, called Isaac's
Hole, at Michelham Priory, near
Hailsham. (Rte. 20.)
The artificial mound in the cricket-
ground was eomiected with the

Sussex.

Route 18. — Lewes : Southover Church.

43

Priory, and may very possibly have
served as the base for a Calvary, a
customary adjunct to most Benedic
tine monasteries. The hollow near
which it stands — called the "Drip
ping-pan " — was perhaps originally a
garden. The great church of the Priory,
abandoned at the Dissolution, con
tained the stately tombs of numerous
De Warrenes, Clares, De Veres, St.
Johns, and Fitzalans. In Oct. 1845
the excavations for the hne of the
railway led the workmen straight
across the site of the ancient chapter
house, and through a part of the
church itself. The chapterhouse of
a monastic church was a not un
usual place of interment for persons
of especial distinction; and here,
about 2 feet below the surface, were
discovered the coffins (rather ' cists')
of the founders, William De Warrene
and Gundrada, now preserved in
Southover Church (see post). Other
remains, but of far less interest, were
also found here ; and a few feet E. of
the ch. a circular pit was opened, 10
ft. in diam. and 18 ft. deep, filled to
about half its depth with human
remains. Many hundred bodies
must have been flung into this pit,
the contents of which infected the
air so terribly, that even the not very
delicate senses of the railway exca
vators were overpowered. It seems
doubtful whether this wholesale in
terment was the result of the great
battle of Lewes, or of the fearful
"black death" of the 14th cent.,
which is said to have fallen with
especial severity on the monks and
clergy. From the Priory the visitor
should proceed at once to Southover
Church, close beyond, in which the
De Wanene relics are reposing.
Part of the nave arches are early
Norm. The chancel is Perp., and
originally extended much farther E.
The brick tower and cupola areas bad
as might be expected from the date
they bear (1714). The ch. is, however,

made interesting by the little Norm.
chapel, erected by subscription in
1847 to contain the bones of Gun
drada and her husband. The de
signs were made by a local archi
tect, to whom they are highly cre
ditable. The material throughout
is Caen stone. In the stained win
dows are small figm-es of William
and Gundrada, and of St. Pancras,
patron of the priory. The wahs
are arcaded ; and on the floor-tiling
appear the arms of De Warrene, and
of some succeeding barons of Lewes.
Within two deeply recessed arches
in the S. wall are placed the leaden
coffins of Earl William and his Coun
tess. " The hds do not appear to have
been soldered or otherwise fastened
to the coffins, but merely flanged over
the edges. The ornamentation of
both is very singular, though simple.
The plates composing them are
evidently cast. A cord of loose
texture seems to have been im
pressed in the sand at regular inter
vals, and then crossed in the opposite
direction, so as to produce on the
plates a lozengy or network pattern,
in relievo, with interstices aver
aging 5 in. by 3. It is worthy of
remark that om- plumbers, to this
day, ornament their coffins with a
similar pattern slightly incised in
the lead." — M. A. Lower. On the
upper end of the two coffins, respec
tively, are the words " Gundrada "
and "Willelm." The length of
William's coffin is 2 ft. 11 in., of
Gundrada's 2 ft. 9 in. They are not
of course those in which the Earl
and Countess were originally buried,
since they are not of sufficient size ;
and it is suggested that at some
period not very remote from their
decease the bodies of the founders
were exhumed, and afterwards de
posited in their present coffins, be
neath the floor of the chapter
house. From measurements of Earl
William's bones, he appears to have
been more than 6 ft. high. The
teeth were perfect.

44

Route 18. — London to Seaford — Lewes. Sussex.

The ancient tombstone of Gun
drada, which occupies the centre of
the chapel floor, is certainly of
the same date as the leaden cists
above, since the Norman characters
on both are precisely similar. Its
" chevrefeuille" ornament, and its
leopard-heads, are also indications
of its early date. The history of this
stone is remarkable. After the demo
lition of the priory it was seized by a
Mr. Shurley, of Isfield, near Lewes
(Ete. 19), who, being of an economical
character, converted it into a portion
of his own tomb. From this office it
was rescued by Sir William Burrell,
about 1775, and placed in South-
over Church, as the nearest spot to
its original position in the Priory.
After a lapse of nearly 300 years,
the tombstone and the relics which
once slept beneath it are reunit
ed ; and although the church which
William and Gundrada so richly
endowed and "thought it should
have canopied their bones till
Domesday," has altogether disap
peared, their remains are neverthe
less sheltered by consecrated wallB,
and their memory is still fragrant
within their ancient town of Lewes,
The striking inscription on Gun-
drada's tombstone runs as follows;
where it is imperfect, the stone has
been broken : —
" Sfcirps Gundrada ducirm, decus evi, nobile
germeD
Jn tali t ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morura.
Martir 
Martha fuit miseris ; fuit ex pietate Maria.
Pars obiit Marthe; superest pars magna
Marie.
0 pie Pancrati, testis pietatis et equi
Te facit heredem ; tu, ciemens, suscipe Ma
trem.
Sexta Kalendarum Junii, lux obvia. carnis
Fregit alabastrum." 
The words "testis pietatis et
equi" refer to the legend of St.
Pancras, at whose tomb all false
swearers were either possessed by evil
Bpirits, or fell dead on the pavement.
The allusion to Martha and Mary is
repeated, with far less propriety, on
the superb brass of Thomas Nelond,

prior of Lewes, in Cowfold Church.
(Rte. 25.) " Mundi Martha fuit, sed
Ato. mente Maria."
The effigy in the N. wall recess
was also found during the excava
tions at the priory. It is temp.
Hen. III. ; and from some traces of
the Braose arms on the surcoat it
has been conjectured to represent
John de Braose, Lord of Bramber
(d. 1232). The ring-mail has been
gilt. The great gate of the priory stood
near the E. end- of Southover
Church. It was removed in 1832.
The side portal, which adjoined it,
was then placed at the end of
Southover Crescent, where it now
remains. The ancient house nearly
opposite the ch. is said to have been
for some time the residence of Anne
of Cleves; who, together with
Henry VIII. and Cromwell, occupies
a conspicuous place in Sussex tradi
tion. Of the remaining churches in
Lewes, the most interesting are St.
Anne's, at the top of the hill W., very
good Trans.-Norm. with an early
font ; — this ch. has been restored ;
and St. Michael's, with the projecting
clock, in the High Street, with a
low circular tower and spire. Here
are two Brasses — John Braydforde,
rector, 1457; and an unknown knight,
about 1400. Against the wall is a
monument for Sir Nicholas Pelham,
d. 1559, who, with his wife and ten
children, kneels before a lectern.
The inscription Tuns —
" His valour's proofe, his manlie vertue's
prayse,
Cannot be marshaU'd ln this narrow roome ;
His brave exploit iu great king Henry's
dayes
Among the worthy hath a worthier tombe :
What time the French sought to have sackt
Sea-Foord,
This Pelham did repel 'em back aboord."
The helmet suspended above may
be the actual one worn by this
valiant Pelham during the skirmish,
which occurred in 1545. The Church

Sussex. Route 18.— Lewes: County Hall ; Cliffe Hill.

45

of St. John sub Castro is modern,
and ugly; it stands on the site of
a very ancient ch., of which the arch
of one doorway, formerly in the
S. wall, has been preserved, and re
placed in the present building.
There is also preserved an jnscription
in two semicircular lines, which runs
thus :—
" Clauditurhic miles, Danoram regia proles;
Mangnus nomen ei,mangna3 nota progeniei ;
Deponens Mangnum, se moribus induit
agnum
Prepete pro vita, fit parvulus arnacorita."
Of the Mangnus thus recorded
nothing is known, though tradition
asserts that he was made prisoner in
a battle with the Danes close to the
town. The letters are apparently
of the 14th cent. The churchyard
occupies the site of a very small
Eoman camp, of which the vallum
is still traceable. In it is the tomb
of Thomas Blunt, barber, of Lewes
(d. 1611), who gave the town con
stables a silver gilt cup, stiU used
by their successors ; bis epitaph ac
cordingly concluding —
" Dona dedit, donisq. datis, datur ipse sepul-
chro :
Dona dedit; dando celestia dona recepit."
In the County Hall, half-way down
the High Street, is a good picture
by Northcote, formerly in the
Shakespeare gallery, and a portrait
of General Ehott, the hero of Gib
raltar. The E. part of the town is adorned
by a handsome building, in coloured
bricks, executed from the design
of Sir G. G. Scott, and named the
Fitzroy Memorial Library. It was
erected by the widow of the Hon.
Henry Fitzroy, M.P., and contains
what is practically a free libraiy for
the benefit of the town.
Lewes was the birthplace of Dr.
Mantell the geologist ; whose dis
coveries throughout this chalk dis
trict, as well as in the Weald, form
landmarks in the history of the
science for which he did so much.

The literary reputation of the town
was afterwards well sustained by
the late Mr. M. A. Lower, author of
many well-known works and local
researches. The downs environ Lewes on all
sides but the S., and their springy
turf, together with perfect freedom
to wander thereon, will induce the
visitor to take some, if not all, of the
following Walks: —
(a) A visit may be made to the
Je Hill, fronting the town on
the E., a fine view of which is ob
tained from it : the houses struggling
up the hill-side with their red roofs
glistening among the trees, and the
grand old castle overtowering them.
In the distance, W., rises Mount
Harry, the scene of the battle ; and
the Weald, with the Ouse winding
through it, stretches away N.
Close below, Cliffe, one of the
suburbs of Lewes, extends its long
street under the steep escarpment.
of the chalk, a situation of some
danger. In Dec. 1836, a vast
mass of drifted snow slipped from
the hill, and entirely destroyed a
range of cottages on which it fell.
Eight persons perished in the ruins.
Cliffe Hill may be climbed at its
southern extremity, and the town
may be regained through the Coombe,
which opens at the farther end. This
is one of those deep hollows occur
ring throughout the chalk districts,
which the sun only touches for a
short time even at the season of
"St. Barnaby bright," and whose
steep sides are not to be descended
without care. The green winding
level at the bottom, looking from
above hke a procession path for the
hill fairies, will bring the visitor back
to the town. " By aid of the numerous
chalk-pits worked at the termination
of the Coombe, we discover that the
ravine coincides precisely with a
line of fault, on one side of which
the chalk with flints appears at the

46

Route 18. — London to Seaford — Matting.

Sussex.

summit of a hill, while it is thrown
down to the bottom on the other." — ¦
Lyell; who refers to the Coombe as
" a beautiful example of the manner
in which nan-ow openings in the
chalk may have been connected with
shifts and dislocations in the strata. "
From the opening of the Coombe
the walk may be extended to South
Mailing, along the Cliffe suburb.
In this is Jireh chapel, erected, as
an inscription on the front an
nounces, by J. Jenkins, W. A. (Welsh
Ambassador), and containing, in the
little cemetery behind, the tomb of
the well-known William Huntington,
S. S. This is his epitaph : —
" Here hes the coalheaver, beloved
of his God, but abhon-ed of men.
The Omniscient Judge, at the grand
assize, shall ratify and confirm this
to the confusion of many thousands ;
for England and its metropolis shall
know that there hath been a prophet
among them. W. H., S. S." (Sinner
saved.) (b) Some good views of the town
are obtained on the road to Mailing
Church ; the foundation stone of
which was laid by John Evelyn,
of the " Sylva," whose early educa
tion was received at the South-
over Grammar School. The ch.
contains nothing of much interest;
but some distance W., at Old Mailing,
is the site of an ancient collegiate
church, called the "Deanery of
Mailing," established on a manor
of the Abps. of Canterbury. The
earliest foundation is said to have
been made by Ceadwalla King of
Wessex (about 688), and it was
therefore one of the first Christian
churches in Sussex. The archbishops
had a residence here ; and were able
to pass from South Mailing to their
Kentish diocese through a hne of
parishes equally their own "pecu
liars." The day following Becket's
murder,' the four knights rode 40
miles by the sea-coast from Salt-

wood Castle to this place. "On
entering the house they threw off
their arms and trappings on the
large dining-table which stood in the
hall, and after supper gathered
round the blazing hearth ; suddenly
the table started back, and threw its
burden on the ground. The attend
ants, roused by the crash, rushed in
with lights, and replaced the arms.
But soon a second still louder crash
was heard, and the various articles
were thrown still farther off. Soldiers
and servants with torches searched
in vain under the solid table to find
the cause of its convulsions, till one
of the conscience-stricken knights
suggested that it was indignantly
refusing to bear the sacrilegious
burden of their arms. So ran the
popular story; and as late as the
fourteenth cent, it was still shown
in the same place, the earliest and
most memorable instance of a
'rapping,' 'leaping,' and 'turning'
table." — Stanley, Hist. Mem. of Can
terbury. From South Malting the
knights proceeded to Knaresborough.
The only trace of former glories now
existing at Old Mailing is the capital
of a column with foliated ornaments
in the kitchen of the farmhouse, and
a small fragment of an early Norm.
wall in the garden.
(c) From Cliffe Hill a walk may be
taken to Mount Caburn, about 2 m.
S.E. from Lewes, where a small in-
trencbment, probably British, occu
pies the brow of a hill overhanging the
pass through which the railway winds,
and looks across to Firle Beacon on
the opposite side. This mass of hill
is entirely divided from the rest of
the S. Downs ; the Firle valley
cutting it off from the line which
extends to Beachy Head, and the
Ouse separating it from the spur on
which the town of Lewes is built.
It is about 9 m. in circumference ;
and the drive round this isolated
cluster of hills is a very pleasant
one, passing through the villages of

Sussex.

Route 18. — Swanborough.

Beddingham, Glynde, and Eingmer.
It is from Eingmer that many of
Gilbert White's (of Selborne) let
ters are dated. " Though I have
now travelled the Sussex downs
upwards of 30 years, yet I still
investigate that chain of majestic
mountains with fresh admiration
year by year." The rookery which
he mentions still exists. Mount
Caburn is so conspicuous an object
from the top of the Cliffe Hill, that
the pedestrian will have no diffi
culty in finding his way to it.
The "deans "and "coombes" and
green heights which make up the
character of the downs are here seen
in perfection. The tourist who may
have been accustomed to the fresh,
dashing streams usually found in dis
tricts like these, filling every hollow
with the most delicious sound in the
world — "the lonely voice of waters,
wild and sweet" — will here, as
throughout the chalk country, find
them missing. He must seek con
solation in the exquisitely varying
hghts, which along these soft reaches
of turf produce effects almost more
striking and picturesque than on
rougher hill-sides. Even the solemn
grey shadows of the coombes under
a completely clouded sky are not
without their beauty. (For a general
notice of the S. Downs see Intro
duction^) The view, which is grand and
varied the whole way from Cliffe
Hill, attains its finest point at Mount
Caburn. Pevensey Castle and Battle
Abbey— each a landmark in the
story of the Conquest — are within
sight; and from his watch-tower
here the archaaologist may recon
struct for himself the whole pa
norama of ancient Sussex. The
view from the sister height, Firle
Beacon, is perhaps still more pic
turesque, since it has more of the
sea; but its summit is not so easy
of access as Caburn.
The camp at Mount Caburn is
nearly circular, with double trenches

47

and a very lofty rampart. There are
traces of gates or entrances, E. and
W. It effectually commanded the
pass below, into which the hill slopes
from it suddenly and steeply. There
are many traces of earthworks in the
valley under the camp, in the direc
tion of Lewes, called Oxsteddle Bot
tom. One small oblong enclosure
here, looking at a distance like an
open book, is called " The Bible ;"
and sometimes "The Devil's Book."
On the short sweet grass of Mount
Cabumand the neighbouring downs
the famous breed of S. Down sheep
was pastured, and its merits first
developed, by the late Mr. Ellman,
whose residence was in the village
of Glynde below. His improve
ments in the breed were noticed by
Arthur Young in 1788. In 1800
the principal landowners of Sussex
presented him with a silver vase in
recognition of his merits ; and after
disposing, at intervals, of rams from
his flock at very high prices, he died
in 1832, by which time the breed of
S. Down sheep had been spread, and
taken the highest place, through
out Great Britain. The bee-orchis,
among other rare plants, is to be
found, in its season, on these
hills. (d) The small Dec. ch. at the old
royal manor of Kingston (about 2 m.
S. W. from Southover) is worth a visit
for the sake of its position. The vil
lage is curiously nestled under the
hills. Swanborough, an old farmhouse,
1., with considerable remains of early
architecture, was a grange belonging
to the Priory of St. Pancras. The
northern side is E. E. with Perp.
additions and alterations. The so-
called "Chapel" is divided into 3
rooms. The roof is concealed by a
flat ceiling, but should be examined,
as it may be, above. It resembles
that of Godshill Church, Isle of
Wight (Hussey), and is very early
Perp. W. of this E. E. portion is
an addition entirely Perp. In the

48

Route 18. — Lewes : Battle ; Mount Harry. Sussex.

kitchen is an " ancient very massive
oak table, constructed to draw out
nearly double its usual length." The
return may be through Iford, 1 m.
S.E., where is a Norm. ch. of con
siderable interest, with a central
tower ; and thence to Southover.
(e) The most interesting of all
walks from Lewes, however, is that
to Mount Harry, the scene of the
great battle, and so called, as appears
most probable, from the unhappy
king (Henry III.), who was there
defeated. Its highest point is about
3 m. W. of the town. The road
turns off on the downs a short dis
tance beyond St. Anne's church, and
climbs to a windmill, which forms
a conspicuous mark; thence cross
ing the race-course, the pedestrian
reaches Mount Harry itself, the
summit of which, called Black Cap,
is crested by a stunted plantation.
The downs are dotted with bar
rows, Celtic and Saxon. The views
of the S. Downs themselves, and of
the Caburn cluster, are full of va
riety and beauty; not less striking
are those toward Lewes Castle and
town, with the coombes beyond ; and
northward stretches away the great
Weald valley, its depth of oak-
forest and ancient wood finely con
trasted with the bare, shadow-swept
heights from which we look down
on it. In early autumn, when the
corn-fields, " like golden shields cast
down from the sun," are just ready
for the sickle, the view from all these
hills is as fine as can well be con
ceived. Newhaven, the port of
Lewes, is visible soon after first
climbing the downs. At an opening
farther on, the terraces of Brighton
appear in the distance, far more pic
turesque than when seen nearer at
hand. Eemark the broad green
pathways that descend the face of
the downs in a sloping direction
all along the N. side of the range.
These are called Borstalls (Beorh-
stigele, hill-path, suggests Kemble),

and are no doubt the most ancient
lines of communication seaward.
One of the most conspicuous here is
Jugs' Borstall, so called from the old
Brighton fishermen, locally named
Jugs, who used to cross it with their
wares to Lewes.
Over all this hill, from the top of
Mount Harry to the town, the battle
extended in its various stages.
The King, accompanied by Prince
Edward and the main body of his
forces, reached Lewes May llth.l 264,
and established himself in the Priory
of St. Pancras; Prince Edward taking
up his quarters in the Castle of De
Warrene, his brother-in-law. The
army of De Montfort and the Barons
rapidly followed King Henry; and
their camp was fixed at Fletching, in
the Weald, about 9 m. from Lewes.
(The spire of Fletching Church is
visible from Mount Harry.) The
Bps. of London and Worcester were
despatched by De Montfort as bear
ers of his final propositions to the
King : these were rejected, and the
Barons at once prepared for battle.
Early on the morning of the 13th
of May their army climbed the
downs, and advanced along the
ridge until they came within sight of
the bell-tower of the Priory. Here
Simon de Montfort addressed them ;
and all the troops prostrated them
selves on the turf, extending their
arms in the form of a cross, and
uttering a short prayer for victory.
De Montfort, having been lamed by
the fall of his horse some time before
the battle, had been conveyed to
Fletching in a sort of closed litter.
This was now brought on the field,
and stationed on a conspicuous point
of the hill, surrounded by his own
standard and pennons, in order to
deceive the royal troops. Within
the litter were shut up some London
citizens of importance, who had been
made prisoners in the preceding
autumn. From the highest point of Mount
Harry three projecting ridges stretch

Sussex.

Route 18. — Mount Harry : the Battle.

49

down toward Lewes, separated by
deep hollows. The Barons' army
advanced along these ridges in three
divisions. The left was commanded
by Nicholas de Segrave, the centre
by De Clare, and the right by the
two sons of De Montfort ; a fourth
division remained in reserve, com
manded by the Earl himself.
The King had been made early
aware of the advance of the Barons
and of their ascent of the downs.
Prince Edward first issued from the
Castle, and found himself opposed to
the body of troops under De Segrave.
On the S., Eichard King of the Bo-
mans, with his son, fronted the young
De Montforts ; and King Henry him
self commanded the central body
opposed to De Clare and the Earl's
reserve. When the two hosts had
thus faced each other, the royal
"dragon" was unfurled, and with
the famous challenge from the King's
mouth, " Simon, je vous defye," the
battle began.
The left body of the Barons' army,
under De Segrave, were at once
broken by the troops of Edward,
who pursued them for four miles
without drawing bridle. The rout
was complete. "Along the most
northern slope of the downs nu
merous bones and arms have been
found, tracing the direction of then
flight toward the W., where the
abrupt steepness of the ground
afforded fugitives on foot the best
chance of escape from horsemen." —
W. H. Blaauw. During this advance,
or possibly on the return, Prince
Edward attacked the litter in which
Simon was supposed to be, and the
unhappy London citizens were killed.
Meanwhile, De Montfort, seeing the
confusion caused by the Prince's
eager pursuit of the left wing,
brought down his reserve upon the
remaining royalists. The King of
the Romans, after a "strong struggle,"
fled;, and King Henry, after two
horses had been killed under him,
[Sussex.]

retreated into the Priory with the
scanty remnant of his forces.
On Prince Edward's return the
battle was renewed under the Castle
walls, and in the streets of the town ;
but, like his father, he was finally
driven within the walls of St. Pancras.
At the commencement of the battle
some knights from the Barons' army
had been made prisoners, and con
fined in tlie castle. An attempt was
made to rescue them, but without
success ; and in revenge the Barons
set fire to the Priory, though the
flames were soon extinguished.
After the Prince's return, and pro
bably during the attack on the
Castle, a number of his followers,
seeing that the day was lost, left
him and fled toward Pevensey. They
were joined by other fugitives from
the town; and a terrible confusiou
took place at the bridge which
crossed the Ouse S. of Lewes.
" Numbers were there drowned, and
others suffocated in the pits of mud ;
while, from the swampy nature of
the ground, many knights who
perished there were discovered after
the battle, still sitting on their horses
in complete armour, and with drawn
swords in their lifeless hands. Quan
tities of arms were found, in this
quarter for many years afterwards."
— W. H. Blaauw. The King of the
Romans had taken refuge in a wind
mill which stood on the site of the
present Black Horse Inn, on the edge
of the downs, above St. Anne's
Church. " The Kyng of Alemaigne
thought to do full well; he seized
the mill for a castel," ran the ballad ;
but "the bad miller" was attacked
in his fortress and made prisoner.
About 5000 are thought to have
been killed in the battle, although a
much higher number has sometimes
been given.
The day thus closed with the en
tire defeat of the royal party. The
so-called " Mise of Lewes " was the
result. Prince Edward, and his

50

Route 18. — Fletching — Laughton.

cousin, the son of the King of the
Romans, were delivered to the Barons
as hostages, and the matters in dis
pute referred to the arbitration of
the King of France.
Although the cause of the Barons
sank low after the subsequent defeat
at Evesham, the battle of Lewes was
nevertheless a great step toward the
establishment of the liberties of
England. The Great Charter was
materially confirmed on the green
sward of Mount Harry; and the
advantages here gained by the high
heart of De Montfort were never en
tirely lost.*
2 m. to the W. of Mount Harry
a large cross was cut on the side
of the downs; only now visible
under peculiar effects of tight. It
was perhaps intended to excite the
prayers of travellers for the re
pose of such as had fallen in the
battle. From Mount Harry the pedestrian
may descend the hill on the N. side,
and return to Lewes by the old Lon
don road. In so doing, at the Offham
chalk-pits he will pass the remains
of what claims to be the first bit of
railway executed in the south of Eng
land. It is an inclined plane for
conveying the lime or chalk to the
stream of the Ouse. Beyond, on
the side of the downs, is Coombe
Place (Sir G. C. Shiffner, Bart.).

(/) Some longer but very interest
ing Excursions may be made into
the Weald country N. of Lewes.
Fletching, 9 m., may be reached by the
Newickroad; and thetouristmaypro-
ceed from Fletching to Uckfield (3 m.
S.E.), returning to Lewes by the rail
way (Rte. 19). The whole of this
country may be commanded from
the Downs above Lewes, so that
the visitor may judge beforehand of
* For more ample details see Mr. Blaauw's
Barims' War, London, 1844.

the class of scenery he is about to
encounter. (g) To Laughton and Chiddingly.
Laughton, 6 m. E., deserves a visit
for the sake of the remains of the
old house of the Pelhams ; although
these are not extensive. A single
brick tower, to which a modem
farm-house is attached, rises in the
midst of a wide and almost treeless
plain, the site of the ancient park.
The house was built by Sir Wm.
Pelham in 1534 ; and the moat, sur
rounding about 3 acres, attests its
former importance. At the S. corner
is a lofty building chequered by
diagonal lines of darker brick, and
terminating in a stepped gable. Here
and in the main tower the arabesque
is curiously mingled with trefoil-
headed Gothic ; the letters W. P.,
and the Pelham buckle, the famous
badge assumed after the battle of
Poictiers, are introduced on the walls
and in the window mouldings. King
John of France was taken at Poic
tiers by Sir Thomas Pelham and Sir
Eoger Delawar, to whom he gave up
his sword. They and their descend
ants afterwards bore as badges the
buckle (Pelham), and the crampette,
or metal point of the scabbard (De
lawar). The buckle is found ter
minating the dripstones of the west
doors of many Sussex churches on
the Pelham domains (Chiddingly,
Eipe, East Hoathly, Crowhurst,
Ashburnham, &c). From Laughton
tower there is a wide view over all
the surrounding country.
Laughton has been the property
of the Pelhams since the beginning
of the 15th cent., and still remains
in their hands. Their burial-place
is in Laughton Church, which, how
ever, contains no monuments.
Laughton Lodge (Sir Jas. Duke,
Bart.). On Colbrand's Farm in this parish
(W. of the ch.) are two old oak-
trees, of no great interest however.

Sussex. Route 18. — London to Seaford — Newhaven.

51

The Church of E. Hoathly, 3 m.N.of
Laughton, is for the most part Perp.
The Pelham buckle occurs on the
tower. On the S. border of the
parish is Holland, an Ehzabethan
house, long a residence of the Pel
hams, the greater part of which,
however, has been taken down.
Waldron, 3 m. farther N., is in the
midst of the wooded district. The
ch., Dec. and Perp., has been re
stored (1863). (Ete. 22.)
The Church of Chiddingly, 3 m.
N.E. from Laughton, conspicuous
with its lofty stone spire, deserves a
visit. ItismainlyE. E., but the tower
and spire are perhaps Dec. It contains
the stately and somewhat unusual
monument of Sir John Jefferay, Chief
Baron of the Exchequer temp. Ehz.
Sir John and his wife recline on the
tomb, whilst in niches on either side
stand the figures of Sir Edward
Montague and his wife, the daughter
of Sir John Jefferay. A mutilated
figure of a child kneels in front.
W. of the ch. are considerable
remains of Chiddingly Place, the
mansion of the Jefferays. it was
Elizabethan and of great size.
From Lewes Railways proceed
to Brighton (Ete. 17), Uckfield and
Tunbridge Wells (Ete. 19), and to
Hastings (Rte. 20), beside the branch
to Newhaven and Seaford,
Rail to Newhaven.
This crosses the Ouse, -leaving
the downs, with the ch. of Glynde
under them, on N., and follows the 1.
bank of the river to
56 m. Newhaven TowN(Stat.); and
56§ m. Newhaven Wharf (Stat.).
Inn: London and Paris Hotel. In
the town on the opposite side of the
river and some | m. distant from
tho Steamboat-Pier is another Hotel.
Newhaven (Pop. 2549), the ancient
port of the Ouse, but which had

fallen into decay, is now well
known as the place of embarkation
for Dieppe, between which place
and Newhaven large and fast steam-
vessels ply daily. This route is
the most direct between London and
Paris. The steam passage is effected
in about 5J hours. It was here
that Louis Philippe and his Queen
landed March, 1848, having crossed
from Havre in the Enghsh steamer
Express. Vessels of some size are
built at Newhaven, which is said to
be " the only port of moderate value
between Portsmouth and the Downs."
Its important situation has more than
once suggested material improve
ments in the harbour, which still
however remain to be effected, but a
large Fort has been constructed on
Barrow Head, at the W. side. The
httle Norm. Church of Newhaven,
with chancel apse at the E. end of
its tower, curiously resembles that of
Yainville-sur-Seine (M. A. L.), one
of the many Norm, resemblances
on this coast. In Newhaven ch.-yd.
notice the much weather-worn monu
ment to the memory of the officers
and crew of the Brazen sloop of war,
lost off Newhaven in 1800, when all
but one man perished. The churches
of Southease and Piddinghoe (be
tween Lewes and Newhaven) have
round towers.
57-J Bishopstone (Stat). A large
tide-mill adjoins the station, but the
Ch. is 1 m. N. It is of various styles,
and is very interesting. The tower
is in four storeys, each diminishing
about a foot ; in each lower stage is
a single circular-headed window ; in
the upper, a double window, with
balusters ; in the third, a circular
window with mouldings. At the
angles of the three upper stages are
circular shafts, without capitals or
bases. The present tower-arch is
circular, Norm., and low, but there
are traces of a loftier one now hid
den in the roof. Under the stunted
spire is a grotesque corbel table.
d2

52

Route 18. — London to Seaford — Seaford. Sussex.

Within, the chancel is in two divi
sions, the westernmost ofwhichisnot
distinguishable externally from the
nave. The arches are Norm, and
E. E. There are traces of circular-
headed windows in different parts;
the present are E. E. Remark the
now closed openings in the chancel
and nave gables. Similar ones
" may almost invariably be found in
the churches of this central coast
district of Sussex." — Hussey. The
form of the S. porch is unusual, and
the outer angles exhibit long-and-
short work. The capitals at the
sides of the doorway should be
noticed. The ancient beams and
king-posts seem quite sound. Over
the door is a stone dial plate,
having in the upper part a cross
and the name Eadrie. (Comp.
those of Corhampton and Warnford,-
Hants, and a remarkable dial at
Aldborough, Yorkshire, which has
the inscription — "Ulf het arssran
cyrice for hanum 3 for Gunthara
saula.") The church seems originally
Norm, with E. E. alterations. The
porch alone shows Saxon indications.
In the vestry a curious stone slab
was found during the restoration.
On it is a cross with intertwined
. circles : in one of which appears
the Agnus Dei ; in another, two
doves drinking, a favourite early
Christian symbol. If early Norm., it
shows Itahan influence. (W. Figg,
in Suss. Arch. Coll.) In the chancel
is the monument of the Eev. J.
Hurdis, Oxford poetry professor, d.
1801. The verses are by Hayley.
58|m. Seaford (Stat.). The Stat.
is in close proximity to the ancient
and very curious ch. ; a row of new
houses extends seaward from the
station. Seaford (Pop. 1357; Inns, the
Seaford Bay Hotel; the New Inn)
is a limb of the Cinque Port of
Hastings, and takes rank imme
diately after the 7 greater ones.
The old harbour, now entirely

closed, was the original outlet of
the Ouse. The town suffered much
from French attacks temp. Edward
III., and later from the black
death, from which it scarcely re
covered, though it continued to
send members to Parliament until
the passing of the Reform Act, and
it is still a corporate town. The
French, under their High Admiral
Claude d'Annebault, attacked it in
1545, when "the Pelham did re
pel 'em," as we learn from bis monu
ment at Lewes (ante). The Church,
partially restored, dedicated to
St. Leonard, is Norm, and E. E.
Eemark especially the carving of
the central column of the S. aisle.
The sculpture of St. Michael and
the dragon, fixed above it, is of the
same date, and was found in the
churchyard. To the exterior wall are
attached a stone coffin and cover,
also found here. Traces of Eoman
occupation, urns and medals, have
been discovered in the neighbour
hood. Seaford may possibly be the
Mercredesburn (Moer-cryd, sea ford)
of Ella's battle in 485. Into the ha
ven of Seaford, in 1058, was driven
a Flemish vessel, having on board
Balger, a monk of Bergue St. Winox,
who, "fidelis fur et latro bonus,"
stole from the neighbouring mo
nastery of St. Andrew the relics
of St. Lewinna, one of the early
British converts in Sussex. The
position of St. Andrew's monastery
is unknown.In the garden of " The Folly," a
house in Church Street, is a vaulted
apartment of E. E. character. An
early stone chimney-piece in a build
ing attached to the Plough Inn may
be worth examination.
The most westerly of the Martello
Towers is at Seaford, near to one of
Henry VIII.'s block-houses.
On the verge of the lofty cliff, 1£
m. E. of the town, is a ledge called
" Puck Church Parlour," inacces
sible except by a narrow path from
above. There are 3 platforms, each

Sussex.

Route 19. — Tunbridge Wells to Lewes,

53

a few feet square, " now the abode |
of a pair or two of old foxes, who
find here a most secure retreat from
dog and hunter, and are occasionally
visited by the raven, the chough,
sea-gull, and peregrine falcon." — M.
A. Lower. This is not the only
instance in which the name of the
"tricksy spirit" is connected with
the sea and its belongings, as, for
instance, at Puck Down, near Bourne
mouth, Hants ; Puckaster, Isle of
Wight, &c.
At West Dean, 2§ m. E., across the
Cuckmere river, a parsonage-house
of the 14th cent, still remains, though
now divided into cottages. It is
built of stone and oak timber, having
a spiral stone stair leading to an
upper storey. The lower fireplace
has been altered ; the upper remains
as at first. Windows, mulhons, &c,
all deserve attention. It was pro
bably built by the Prior of Wil
mington, a cell of St. Mary Grestein
in Normandy. West Dean belonged
to Wilmington. (Comp. Sore Place,
Plaxtol, Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 8.) The
ch. is Norm., with E. E. portions.
The undulations in the chalk
cliffs between .Seaford and Beachy
Head are known as the " Seven
Sisters" — a number which occurs
frequently in the boundary lists of
Saxon charters, as " Seven Oaks,"
" Seven Thorns," &c. In the present
case, however, the number indicates
the number of the undulations. In
these cliffs peregrine falcons and
ravens annually rear their young,
"and the kestrel may be seen flutter
ing along the margin, or dropping
over the edge of the precipice, on
his return to Ms own little establish
ment from a mousing expedition
into the interior." — A. E. Knox.
From Seaford the tourist may
proceed by Friston (notice Friston
Place, a Tudor mansion, on N.) and
East Dean to East Bourne (9 m., or,
if Beachy Head be taken, 14 m.),
where he can rejoin the rly. (Ete. 20.)

ROUTE 19.
TUNBRIDGE WELLS TO LEWES, Br
BUXTED AND UCKFIELD.
Rly. to Uckfield and Lewes.
The high road leaves Eridge Park
1. and proceeds over the high ground
of Crowborough, the greatest elevar
tion in this part of the country
(804 ft. above sea-level). The view
over the foreground slopes of fern,
across the shadow-swept Weald to
the South Downs, is worth all the
labour of the ascent. The sea is
visible through the low ground at
the mouth of the Cuckmere. Crow
borough was one of the great Sussex
beacon stations ; and the " beard of
flame" on its crest has blazed up
on more occasions than the approach
of the Armada. The views over the
greater part of East Sussex are
superb ; but there is nothing call
ing for especial notice until, 2 m.
short of Uckfield, the village of
Buxted is reached (it. is Maresfield)..
Maresfield, which adjoins Fletching,
E., has a small Dec. ch. of no great
importance. " It, contains, however
some good ancient woodwork." —
Hussey. In the neighbourhood is
Maresfield Park (Lady Shelley).
Here is Wood's rose-garden of 80
acres, producing 500 or 600 varieties
of roses. (For Buxted, Uckfield, and
tlie return to Lewes, see Rte. 19.)
The Church of Fletching, one
of the largest in the district, dis
tinguished with a spire, is of great
interest. The greater part is E. E.
The design of the large E. window

54 Route 19. — Tunbridge Wells to Lewes — Fletching. Sussex.
is unusual. The tower is Norm.,
though not without some peculiari
ties which may indicate an earlier
date. There is no staircase, as is
also the case at Bosham. The
double windows are divided by
balusters with Norm, capitals, and
the door opening into the church
was a semichcular arch with zig
zag moulding. The floor of the
ch. has a gradual ascent from W.
to E. The achievements suspended
in the transept show the crest of
the Nevills (a bull's head) ; though
in what manner that family was
connected with this parish is un
certain. On an altar-tomb in the
S. transept is a very fine Brass of a
knight of the Dalyngrugge family
and liis wife, circ. 1380. On the
jupon of the knight are his arms —
or, a cross engrailed gules. In the
same transept is the altar-tomb, with
effigies, of Eich. Leohe (d. 1596).
In the mausoleum of the Sheffield
family (a continuation of the N.
transept) is interred Gibbon the his
torian. The characteristic inscrip
tion is from the pen of Dr. Parr.
Gibbon spent much of the latter part
of his life at Sheffield Place ; John
Holroyd, the first Lord Sheffield,
having been his most intimate friend.
He died in London, 1794, but his
body was brought hither for inter
ment. Sheffield Place (Earl of Sheffield),
1 m. W. of Fletching, was almost
entirely rebuilt by the first Earl.
It cannot be called good. The
shields on the outer walls are
those of the various possessors of the
manor since the Conquest. The
park is very fine, and contains some
noble timber; the oaks especially
are of enormous size. Iu the house
is preserved the only good portrait
of Gibbon, painted by Sir Joshua
for his friend Mr. Holroyd.
Adjoining Sheffield Place is Series
(J. M. Wilson, Esq.).
Simon de Montfort encamped with

the army of the Barons the night.
before the battle of Lewes, May
13th, 1264, in the woods, which then
completely surrounded the old ch.
of Fletching, and from this spot,
after their fruitless negotiation with
the King, they climbed the downs at
Mount Harry. (See ante.)
Leaving Tunbridge Wells by rly.
the first station is
3 m. Groombridge Junct. line
on rt. (W.) to East Grinstead and
Three Bridges (Ete. 22).
5 m. Eridge (Stat.). Near here
is Eridge Castle (Marquis of Aber
gavenny) (Ete. 17).
8 J m.. Rotherfield (Stat.) (see
Ete. 22 a). Crowborough beacon hes
1§ m. W. of this and the village of
Rotherfield, 2 m. E. This is the
station nearest to Mayfield (Rte,
22a), which is 3 m. distant.
13| m. Buxted (Stat).
The Church of Buxted, which
stands on liigh ground surrounded
by trees, is E. E. with a Dec. chan
cel. It has a low shingled spire. It
may be remarked that nearly all the
Sussex spires occur in the Weald,
as though to mark the position of
the church by their elevation above
the tree-tops. Over the N. porch is
a figure of a woman holding a large
churn, possibly a rebus for the name
of Allchorn. "On either side is a
figure of a wairior caived in stone,
having a shield upon his breast."
— Horsfield. In the chancel is the
Brass of Britellus Avenel, rector,
1408. The coped figure is in the
upper part of a cross fleury. " Chris
tine Savage, both flesh and bone,
lyeth graven under a stone," at the
entrance of the chancel. In the
eh.-yd. was buried the poet Words
worth's brother, the Bev. Dr. W.,
Master of Trinity College, Cam-:
bridge, and Rector of Buxted.

Sussex.

Route 19. — Buxted — Uckfield.

.55

Near Buxted Church is an ancient
building called the Hog-house ; from
a hog carved over the door, with
the date 1581. This was the resi
dence of the Hogge family; one
of whom, Ralf Hogge, in 1543 cast
the first iron cannon ever made
in England, superseding the earlier
hooped or banded guns. The name
Hogge seems to have become con
founded with that of Huggett ; and
Huggett's Furnace, between Buxted
and Mayfield, is still pointed out as
the place where the first iron ord
nance was cast.
"Kaster Huggett and his man John,
They did cast the first can-non" —
runs the local rhyme. Ealf Hogge
was at first assisted by French and
Flemish gunsmiths, but afterwards
" made by himself ordnance of cast
iron of divers sorts." The name of
Huggett is still common among the
blacksmiths of E. Sussex. (M. A.
Lower.) At Howbourne in this parish is
. another relic of the iron manufac
ture. The old hammer-post, an
oaken trunk, 9i ft. high, still remains
near the end of the pond, which has
been drained. The great interest of
these relies hes in the contrast they
suggest between the present cha
racter of the country, quiet and tree-
shadowed, and its condition in the
days when anvil and hammer rang
incessantly through all the Weald.
At Hendall (N. of the ch.) is an
ancient house which may be worth
visiting. " On the E. is a circular arch
with pillars, in good repair." — Hors-
field. It was for some generations
the residence of a family named
Pope. Buxted Place (Colonel F. Vernon
Harcourt), formerly belonging to
Sir G. Shuckburgh the astronomer,
and afterwards the residence of
the Earl of Liverpool, deserves
notice for the sake of its park,

which is picturesque and well
wooded. The Rev. Edward Clarke,
father ofthe traveller, was long rector
of Buxted. The place boasts also
of another celebrity, George Watson,
the "Sussex calculator," who, in
other respects all but idiotic, could
perform the most difficult arithr
metical calculations, and remember
the events and the weather of every
day from an early period of his life.

15J m. Uckfield (Stat.). The tine
follows the valley of the Ouse to
the Lewes Station.
Uckfield (Pop. 2041 ; Inn, Maiden's
Head) is a market town to which con
siderable additions have been made
since the opening of the rly. ; it now
occupies both banks of the Ouse, but
was formerly confined to the N->
stretching in a single street towards
Tunbridge Wells. It stands in the
midst of pleasant scenery, richly
wooded and varied, like all this part
of Sussex. The ch. was rebuilt about
1840, and the parochial schools,
erected 1853, are large and well ar
ranged. The grounds ofthe Rocks (E.
J. Streatfeild, Esq.) are very pictu
resque. Surrounding a small lake
are some fine rocks, characteristic of
the Hastings sand, and resembling
those near Tunbridge Wells, Groom
bridge, and West Hoathly. There
is another curious group of these
rocks at the Vineyard, in the adjacent
parish of Buxted. In » large rock
at the W. side are some remarkable
excavations, which tradition asserts
to have been the work and residence
of a hermit.
Little Horsted, 2 m. S. of Uckfield
and E. of the rly., had a small
Norm. ch. of no great interest, whicji
was pulled down, except the N. wall,
in 1862 to make way for a modern
ch. (Sir G. G. Scott, archt.) erected

56

Route 20. — London to Hasti

ings.

Sussex.

at the expense of F. Barchard, Esq.,
lord of the manor. The decorations
of the chancel are very costly, par
ticularly a reredos of marble mosaic.
Mr. Barchard's mansion, Horsted
Place, is close by. This is Eliza
bethan, and one of the best modern
residences in the county.
The rly. descends the pretty
valley of the Ouse.
18J m. Isfield (Stat.).
The Church is Dec, with later
additions. In it Gundrada's tomb,
now in Southover Church, Lewes,
Was long preserved, and misapplied.
(Rte. 18.) On the S. side is the
Shurley Chapel, containing some
interesting monuments; Brasses of
Edw. Shurley and wife, 1558, and
of Thos. Shurley and 2 wives,
1579; and an elaborate altar-tomb
with effigies of Sir John Shurley
and his two wives, 1631. The
inscription is edifying, and should be
read. The children by bis first wife,
some of whom "were called into
heaven, and the others into several
marriages of good quality," appear
in front of the monument. TheShur-
leys of Isfield were a branch of the
celebrated Wiston family ; and there
are still considerable remains of their
ancient residence, Isfield Place. The
Shurley arms and mottoes remain
over the door. The house was sur-
l^ranajed by a lofty wall, having a
kind of watch-tower at each angle.
This is probably earlier than the
remains of the dwelhng-house, now
a farm. Comp. Compton Castle,
Devon, which has a similar ex
ternal wall, and dates from the end
of the 14th cent. (Handbook for
Devon and Cornwall.)
2O5 m. Barcombe (Stat.).
Midway between this station and
Lewes is Hamsey, with a good E. E.
Ch., the tower, which is well covered
with ivy, is Perp. and of very sohd
character. In the chancel is a hand
some canopied tomb, commonly

ascribed to one of the De Says, who
founded the ch., but more probably
that of Edward Lewknor, one of the
malcontents, temp. Mar., who died
in the Tower, June, 1556. (Suss.
Arch. Coll., vol. xvii.) To account
for these different opinions it should
be remarked that the tomb and the
canopy are evidently of different
dates. From the rly. may be seen Sonth
Mailing Ch. among the trees, ind
the residence of E. C. Currey, Esq.
(see Rte. 18).
24J m. Lewes (Stat.). (Rte. lf|.)

ROUTE 20.
LONDON TO EAST BOURNE AND
HASTINGS, BY LEWES AND
PEVENSEY. [BEACHY HEAD.]
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway.)
76j m. to Hastings.
Forthe route to Lewes, 50 m., see
Rte. 18.
Proceeding towards Hastings the
rly. crosses the Ouse (giving off on rt.
the branch to Newhaven and Seaford
— Rte. 18), skirts the foot of Mount
Caburn, and reaches
53 m. Glynde (Stat.).
The Church of Glynde (Glyn, Celt.
a vale) is a specimen of the Grecian
taste of 1765, when it was built by
Rd. Trevor, Bp. of Durham. An
obelisk in the churchyard has an
inscription by Mrs. Hemans to the
memory of two sons of Sir D. Wed-
derburn. N . is Glynde Place (Right
Hon. H. B. W. Brand) ; and S.

Sussex.

Route 20. — Alfriston — Wilmington.

57

stretch away the woods and planta
tions of Firle Place (Viscount Gage) ;
both Ehzabethan houses, and in the
usual S. Down position, close under
the hills. Behind Firle Place rises
Firle Beacon.
58 m. Berwick (Stat.).
From this stat. the village of
Alfriston, about 3 m. S., with its fine
cruciform Church surmounted by
tower and spire, may be visited.
The ancient hostelry of the Star
Inn well deserves notice. It is
of the beginning of the 16th cent.,
and was probably a resting-place
for pilgrims to the shrine of St.
Richard of Chichester. On wooden
brackets on each side of the door are
mitred figures, — one with a hind
(St. Giles ?), — and the other possibly
St. Julian, the patron of travellers.
Among other ornaments are St.
George and the Dragon, and what is
apparently a bear and ragged staff
with a lion opposite. The house
stands within the boundaries of
Alciston Manor, belonging to the
Abbot of Battle, by whom it may
have been, built. The ch. is prin
cipally Dec. A mutilated pillar in
the village street is all that remains
of what was once a cross.
| m. E. of Berwick Stat, the Cuck
mere river is crossed ; and 1 m. fur
ther we have on S. the village of
Wilmington. Here was a Priory,
connected with the Benedictine
Abbey of Grestein, near Honfleur,
to which religious house it was
given by Robert de Moreton, the
first Norman Lord of Pevensey and
the surrounding manors. There are
some scanty remains of " Alien
Priory " as it is called, now con
verted into a farmhouse. The
principal sitting-room was formed
out of the chapel. There is a cel
lar, supported by a low hexagonal
pillar in the centre ; and the house-
roof, vast and full of timber, is evi

dently that of the old building.
The shattered gate-towers adjoining
seem of the reign of Henry VI.
About | m. off is a pond called the
"Well Holes," the stew for supply
ing the brethren's "maigre" table.
S.E., on the side of the Downs, is the
so-called "Long Man of Wilming
ton," a rude figure 240 ft. in length,
holding a staff in either hand. It
had not been "scoured" for many
years, and having become invisible
on the spot, some local antiquaries
in 1874 raised a subscription for re
marking the outline on the turf by
the aid of white bricks. There is
a similar figure at Cerne Abbas in
Dorsetshire. ¦ Both are near religious
houses, and may have been the work
of their inmates, though the better
opinion is that which sees in them
relics of Celtic times. Wilmington
Church has Norm, portions. Some
of the windows, as well as the
arches and pillars of the S. transept,
are composed entirely of hard chalk.
In the churchyard is a venerable
and most picturesque yew, 20 feet in
girth where the main stem divides.
At Wilmington a large number of
bronze celts, and a celt mould, were
found in 1861. (Suss. Arch. Coll.
xiv.) The walk from Wilmington to
East Bourne (5 m. S.E.), keeping
along the crest of the Downs, will
be found not an unpleasant one. A
great stretch of country is com
manded on either side. At Jevington,
which can be taken in the rte. with
out materially lengthening it, the ch.
tower has some peculiarities which
have been called Saxon, but which
rather resemble those of the Norm.
tower of Bishopstone (Ete. 18). In
the wall of the S. aisle is a fragment
of ancient sculpture representing" the
Saviour bruising the serpent's head.
Jevington church was substantially
restored in 1873.
61J m. Polegate Junction Stat.
D 3

58 Route 20. — London to Hastings — East Bourne. " Sussex^

Branch lines run S. to East Bourne,
4f m. (a), and N. to Hailsham,
3 m. (o).

(a) The range of S. Downs here
turns toward the sea to its termina
tion in Beachy Head. At the foot of
them, along the meadows of Pe
vensey Level, runs the branch rly.,
passing rt. the village of Willingdon,
to 4£ m. East Bourne (Stat.) (66 m.
from London), situated about 1 m.
S.E. from the original village of
East Bourne. This is a picturesque
village in a small hollow, and the
adjoining district is well sheltered
on the N. and W. by the adjoining
downs. This shelter gives it general
fertility and verdure, and the free
growth of trees, especially elms,
which extend to within a few hundred
yds. ofthe sea-shore. A small spring
trickles out of the chalk hill beneath
the ch., and pursues a sluggish, and,
in part, a mole-like course, till it
reaches the sea.
East Bourne old Cliurch (St. Maiy
the Virgin) is for the most part rich
Trans.-Norm. The chancel arch
is slightly pointed. The S. chancel
has Perp. sediha and a Perp. Easter
sepulchre. In the N. chancel is
the monument of Davies Gilbert,
P.E.S. His family name was Giddy,
and that of Gilbert was assumed
by bim on his maniage with the
heiress of East Bourne Manor. His
residence was a red-brick house
near the church. The Greek inscrip
tion on the monument was probably
chosen by himself, as well as the
words on the slab of the vault
below : — " T<5 neKKov %&i." The
E. aisle window has some fragments
of Flemish glass of Scripture sub
jects, Wth cent., but the chancel
window is modern. The manor of
East Bourne soon after the Con
quest passed into the hands ofthe

Badlesmere family, who seem to
have built the ch. The Parsonage
Farm-house, said to have been a
house of Black Friars, and tl>e
Lamb Inn, where is » remarkable
vaulted cellar, both adjoining the
ch., are ancient buildings, deserving
examination. Both have the repu- ,
tation of having been religious
houses, hut no certainty exists in
either case. S. of the old ch. are
Compton Place (Duke of Devon
shire, the chief landowner here), and
Southfield Lodge (J. Swift, Esq.)
The new to wn of East Bourne ( Inns:
Albion (best), Cavendish, Burlington,
and Anchor, all facing the sea ;
Sussex, Gildridge) extends from the
station to the sea, a distance of
upward of J m., and includes the
original "Seahouses" and the old
street of South Bourne. It is exposed
towards the E. and S., but sheltered
on other sides. It has already a
resident population of about 10,000
and 4 district churches with a chapel
of ease. Its streets are well laid out
and designed, and many terraces with
several handsome detached houses
with gardens and grounds are con
stantly being built. The Grand
Parade facing the sea, with its well-
kept Terraces, J m. in length, is a
very agreeable locality in the summer
months, and a pleasure Pier, erected
1868, opposite to it. A system of
drainage, which cost 35,000?., com
pleted 1867, conveys impurities into
the sea, at Langney Point, 3 m. E.
For those who seek rational recrea
tion and health-giving pleasures, East
Bourne is altogether a very enjoyable
place, but they who expect bustle
and gaiety must go elsewhere, for
its grand recommendations are its
quiet and the magnificent stretch
of sea, over which Beachy Head,
at no great distance, looks out far
and wide. In this direction the walks
about East Bourne are full of beauty.
The roads toward the old village are
shadowed by elm-trees of great size.
Eastward, a marshy plain extends to-

Sctssex.

Route 20. — East Bourne — Beachy Head.

59

ward Pevensey. Many places of great
interest in this part of Sussex are ac
cessible by rail from East Bourne ;
whilst Herstmonceux, 10 m. ; Michel-
ham, 8 m. ; and Pevensey, 5 m., are
within driving distance (see post).
E. of the Sea-houses is a circular
redoubt, and formerly a number of
Martello towers dotted the beach
hence to Hastings, but having been
experimented on with Armstrong
guns several have been battered
down, several have been undermined
or washed away by the sea, and of
the rest some serve only as coast
guard stations, or are inhabited by
artillerymen of the Coast Brigade.
They were erected by Mr. Pitt be
tween 1804-6, when a descent of
French troops in this neighbourhood
was expected. Mr. Sheridan alluded
to them, when he said, in contrasting
Napoleon with the Enghsh minister,
" Confederated kingdoms were his
Martello towers, and Sovereigns were
his sentinels."
Pleasant short cross-field walks,
commanding fine views, are to
" Paradise," behind Compton Place
and to Mill Gap. To equestrians
and vigorous pedestrians the ad
jacent downs afford many delightful
excursions, as to East Dean (which
disputes with a place of the same
name near Midhurst (Bte. 26) the
honour of having been a residence
of Alfred), Friston, Jevington, and
Wilmington (ante). For fuller in
formation respecting this locality,
reference may be made to a very
good Guide-book to the district, by
G. F. Chambers, F.R.A.S., which is
sold by most of the booksellers at
East Bourne.
The downs are now extensively
cultivated, and give in the sheltered
spots variously styled valleys, combes
and deans, a good return.
Beachy Head, where our old com
panions the S. Downs terminate in
an abrupt precipice on the sea-shore,
is about 3 m. S.W. of the town. Its
summit is 564 feet above the sea-

level ; E. .the view extends to Hast
ings. There are few grander head
lands on the southern coast, and
few which have witnessed more fre
quent or more hopeless shipwrecks.
These have been greatly diminished
since the erection in 1831 of the
Bell Tout Lighthouse, which the
visitor will see on his way. It
stands on a point considerably lower
than Beachy Head itself, but pro
jecting farther into the sea. Close
under Bell Tout is a cavern called
"Parson Darby's Hole," not acces
sible at high water ; its two apart
ments are said to have been ex
cavated with his own hands by a
former vicar of E. Dean (Eev. Jona
than Darby, of Queens' Coll., Oxford ;
he married in 1681, Ann, great grand
daughter of Sir William Segar, Gar
ter), as a refuge for the shipwrecked,
and partly perhaps for himself; since
Mrs. Darby is said to have been
" gifted" in the way of loquacity. On
stormy nights he hung out a tight
here. Parson Darby's flock, how
ever, were by no means so humanely
disposed as himself. " Providential
wrecks," as the Cornishmen used to
call them, were prayed for not less
devoutly all along this coast, whose
natives, says Congreve, " fattened on
the spoils of Providence,
" As critics throng to see a new play split,
And thrive and prosper on the wrecks of
wit."
The lighthouse and better charts
have gone far to diminish these
profits ; and smuggling, for which the
coast was equally famous, has, since
the establishment of the coast-guard,
whose station is perched on the top
of the cliff, retired to more sohtary
shores. The headland itself is the
resort of numberless sea-fowl. From
time immemorial a pair of peregrine
falcons have built near the summit,
and guard the lofty ledge on which
their nest is situated with the most
watchful jealousy. " With the excep
tion of a few jackdaws who bustled

60

Route 20. — London to Hastings — Birling Gap. Sussex.

out of the crevices below, all the
other birds which had now assembled
on this part of the coast for the
breeding season — it being about the
middle of May — seemed to respect
the territory of their warlike neigh
bours. The adjoining precipice,
farther westward, was occupied by
guillemots and razorbills, who had
deposited their eggs, the former on
the naked ledge, the latter in the
crevices in the face of the cliff. Here
the jackdaws appeared quite at their
ease, their loud, merry note being
heard above every other sound, as
they flew in and out of the fissures
in the white rock, or sat perched on
a pinnacle near the summit, and
leisurely surveyed the busy crowd
below." — A. E. Knox. The sam
phire, which grows here in abun
dance, has more than once told a
welcome story to the shipwrecked
sailor, who, having gained the ledges
from which it hangs, knows that he
is above the sea-mark.
Off Beachy Head, June 30, 1690,
took place the fight between the
combined English and Dutch fleet
of 56 sail, under Lord Torrington,
and the French, of 82, under the
Count de Tourville. The Dutch,
after displaying great corn-age, were
placed in extreme peril before
Torrington could come up to them.
He at last succeeded in placing his
fleet between those of the Dutch
and French, and thus saved the
former; but retired after the first
day's fight to the mouth of the
Thames. For this, Tonlngton was
committed to the Tower by King
William — pleaded his own cause —
was acquitted, and passed in triumph
up the Medway with his flag flying.
The king, however, could not forget
the peril of his Dutch ships, and the
loss of many of them, and Tor-
rington's commission was taken from
him. (See Macaulay, vol. ih.)
Birling Gap, 1£ m. W. of Beachy
Head, was formerly defended, like

some of the " gates" on the Kentish
coast, by an arch and portcullis,
some remains of which may still be
traced. The visitor may descend
to the beach by this gap, and re
turn to East Bourne through the
Cow Gap, which passes upward
from the beach on the E. side ofthe
headland. But, for this excursion,
the water must be low and falling,
or the pedestrian may be caught
by the tide and detained for some
hours. Ask advice of the Coast
guard at Birling Gap.
The grandeur of Beachy Head
and the adjoining coast will best be
seen from the water : boats can rea
dily be procured at East Bourne, and
can pass along close under the chalk
cliffs. " The Charles Rock," below
the headland, is the sohtary survivor
of 7 high masses called the " Seven
Charleses," the rest of which have
gradually crumbled away. " When
the Charleses wear a cap, the
clouds weep," is the local saying.
Among this wild coast scenery,
and associating with still wilder
smugglers, Mortimer the painter
(born 1741) passed his earlier years.
His father was Collector of the Cus
toms at East Bourne, and the artist's
favourite subjects, wild seas, wrecks,
and gloomy caverns, the haunts
alike of land and water thieves,
prove, not less than his irregular life
how powerfully he had been influ
enced by his early surroundings.
The foundations of a Eoman villa
were discovered here in 1848, S.E.
of Trinity Church. The downs are
dotted with tumuli, and show many
traces of early intrenchments.
Between East Bourne and Bexhill
extends the sweep of Pevensey Bay,
the coast of which is httle else than
a wide -spreading bed of shingle,
by no means easy to walk on. Wide,
flat pieces of wood, shaped to the
feet, and called " backsters," are here
(and in parts of Kent) used for walk
ing over it, and serve the purpose
of snow-shoes in Canada to prevent

Sussex. Route 20. — Pevensey Bay — Michelham Pnory. 61
the feet sinking at every step. " On
this wild beach the ring dotterel,
or stone-runner as it is frequently
termed, deposits 3 eggs, which can
scarcely be distinguished from the
surrounding pebbles ; and many
species of terns haunt it in great
numbers during the summer months.
But amid this barren waste, like an
oasis in a desert, a cluster of green,
furze-covered hillocks suddenly ap
pears, intersected with little fresh
water lakes, whose swampy banks,
clothed with reeds and rushes,
abound, during certain season, with
many migratory birds of the gral-
latorial and natatorial divisions."
— A. E. Knox. A corner of this
oasis is passed, in driving from East
Bomne to Pevensey, 5 m„ an excur
sion by no means to be abandoned
on account of the dulness of the
way, inasmuch as the interest of
Pevensey itself cannot be overrated.

Lamgney, about half-way, was an
ancient grange of the Lewes Priory.
The chapel remains almost entire,
though now devoted to farm uses.

(6) From Polegate a branch runs
to Hailsham, whence it will hereafter
be extended to Groombridge and
Tunbridge Wells. Hailsham is a
thriving town (Pop. 2429 ; Inns
George, Crown), with one of the
largest cattle-markets in Sussex.
The ch., ded. to St. Andrew, is of
some interest ; its pinnacled Perp.
tower is of the Devonshire type.
At Otham, in the S. part of the
parish, and 1 m. from Polegate Stat.,
is a small chapel of early Dec.
character, now used as a stable. It
marks the site of a house of Pre-
monstratensian canons, first settled
here, and then removed to Bayham
(Rte. 11). A chapel of St. Lawrence
still remained on the older site, and
is probably that now existing.

The remains of Michelham Priory,
2 m. W. of the town, are more im
portant and interesting. It was a
house of Augustinian canons,
founded by Gilbert de Aquila early
in the reign of Henry III. The
buildings, now converted into a
farmhouse, formed a spacious quad
rangle, and are surrounded by a
broad moat, covered with water-
lilies, and a favourite haunt of the
otter. Three fish-stews, commu
nicating with the moat, still remain
usable. The moat is fed by the
river Cuckmere. The present bridge
seems to have replaced a draw
bridge; for the house was suffi
ciently near the sea to induce the
canons to look well after their means
of defence.
The enclosure is entered through
a square gateway tower of 3 storeys.
Of other remains the most im
portant are a crypt, now used as a
dairy, and an ancient apartment
above it; probably the common
room of the canons, though called
the "Prior's chamber." This has a
massive stone fireplace, surmounted
by a funnel projecting from the
wall, and divided into two distinct
and equal parts, having a flat stone
bracket on either side of the funnel.
In this fireplace are two. andirons of
Sussex iron, terminating in human
heads, the head-dress marking the
time of Henry VII. All this por
tion is E. E. and part of the original
building. Some mutilated E. E.
arches near the present back door
seem to mark the site of the chapel.
The large parlour of the farmhouse
is late Tudor. A remarkable passage,
ribbed over with short pointed
arches, runs parallel with the crypt,
and is called Isaac's Hole. It seems
probable that it was the Laterna,
or place of punishment. (Comp. the
Lantern in Lewes Priory, Rte. 18.)
Owls in great numbers frequent
the large roofs of the farm. The
old priory mill stands without the
moat, surrounded by a cluster of

62 Route 20. — London to Hastings — Herstmonceux. Sussex.
sent at Agincourt. It was entirely of
brick, and was probably the largest
post-Roman building of that material
in England. It had fallen much into
decay toward the end of the last
century ; and in 1777, after an exa
mination by Wyatt the architect,
the interior was demohshed, and
the present mansion (Herstmonceux
Place) erected on the N.W. side of
the park.
The shell of the castle still re
mains, a very interesting and most
picturesque specimen of the half
fortress, half mansion of the latter
days of feudalism. The valley
in which it stands is still beau
tiful, though the " wings of the
blue hills covered with wood,"
which Horace Walpole admired
on his visit in 1752, have been
deprived of the greater part of their
timber. The actual site is low,
and the building, " for the conveni
ence of water to the moat, saw
nothing at all." — Walpole. It en
closed 4 courts, 2 large and 2 small
ones. The main gateway, a very fine
one, is in the S. front. Above it is
the shield of the Fiennes, with their
supporter, the alaune or wolf-dog.
The flanking towers were 84 feet
high, and were capped by watch-
turrets, from which the sea was
visible. A wooden bridge takes the
place of the old drawbridge, "actu
ally in being " in Walpole's time.
"Persons who have visited Eome, on
entering the court, and seeing the
piles of brickwork strewn about,
have been reminded of the baths of
Caracalla, though of course on a
miniature scale ; the illusion being
perhaps fostered by the deep blue of
the Sussex sky, which, when com
pared with that in more northernly
parts of England, has almost an
Itahan character." — Archdn. Hare.
The walls, particularly the N., are
thickly covered with ivy, finely
contrasting the red colour of the
brick. Remark especially the great
trunks of the ivy in what was the

trees, and priory, mill, and moat,
make a pleasant picture.
It was at Hellingly, 2J m. N. of
Hailsham, that Lord Dacre of Herst
monceux, temp. Hen. VIII., was on
his way to hunt with certain of his
friends, when a "fraie" took place,
in which John Busbridge was killed.
For this Lord Dacre was subse
quently executed at Tyburn. His
death, so called — "murder," thought
Camden — was caused by " his great
estate, which the needy courtiers
gasped after." They missed their
prey, however, since it was found
"too strongly entailed." (See, for a
different judgment on this matter,
Froude, Hist. Eng., iv. 120.)
*Herslmonceux Castle is often visited
from Hailsham, from which it is dis
tant 5 m. by road, 3| m. by footpath
across the meadows ; but the way
from Pevensey, though 1 m. longer,
is to be preferred, as by far the finest
view is obtained by approaching the
castle from the S. by a footpath which
leaves the Pevensey road near a lone
house at the bottom of the hill
ascending to Wartling.
Waleran de Moneeux, the first
Norman lord of the district, gave
his name to this parish and to
Compton Moneeux in Hants. From
an heiress of this family the manor
passed to Sir John de Fiennes, whose
descendants, the Lords Dacre of the
South, retained it until 1708, since
which time it has passed through
many hands, chieflythoseof thealhed
families of Hare and Naylor. Coun
sellor Naylor, of Lincoln's Inn, pur
chased the estate from Lord Sussex,
and on the death of his only child, set
tled it on the son of his sister Berthia,
wifeof Dr. Hare,Marlborough'schap-
lain, and afterwards Bishop of Chi
chester. A manor-house existed here
from a very early period, probably on
the site of the present castle. This
was built, temp. Hen. VI., by Sir
Roger de Fiennes, who had been pre-

Sussex, Route 20. — Herstmonceux Castle and Church,

dining-room. The inner courts are
carpeted with a bright green turf,
and hazel-bushes have sprung up
here and there between the walls.
The "Green Court" is the first
entered ; and beyond this was the
great hall, which had a central fire
place. Other apartments were
ranged round the walls. The S. and
N. fronts of the castle measured
206 ft., and the E. and W. 214. The
kitchen, hke the hall, was of great
height, and had no upper storey.
The great oven of the bakehouse,
14 feet diameter, is worth notice.
On the 1. side of the S. front, be
yond the gate-house, was a long
room which Grose suggests may
have been intended for a stable in
case of a siege. The small chapel
(marked by its triple-lancet window)
was in the E. front, and had some
stained glass in Walpole's time.
Some had been removed, and " we
actually found St. Catherine, and
another gentlewoman with a church
in her hand, exiled into the buttery."
The " alaunes " of the Fiennes
figured in most of the windows
throughout the castle. Up to the
demolition ofthe castle, all the walls,
except those of the principal apart
ments, remained " in their native
brickhood." "That age had not
arrived at the luxury of whitewash,"
says Walpole. Under the tower at
the S.E. angle was the dungeon,
*' giving one' a delightful idea of
living in the days of soccage, and
under such goodly tenures." — Wal
pole. In Grose's time a stone post
with a large chain still remained in
the centre. In the entrance tower
of the castle was a room called the
"Drummer's Hall," in which, says
tradition, a chest containing treasure
was hidden, and guarded by a super
natural drummer, the sound of whose
drum was occasionally heard at mid
night. Addison's comedy of ' The
Drummer' was "descended from it,"
says Walpole ; but there are similar
stories in Baxter's ' Invisible World'

63

and other such collections. The
unearthly drum of Herstmonceux is
said to have been the invention of
a Lord Dacre, who suspected the
fidelity of his wife ; or, according to
another account, of a gardener, who,
being in league with smugglers from
Pevensey, sounded itin their interest.
The winding stairs which commu
nicated with the upper galleries are
curious, and should be examined, so
far as they are safe. They cease to
be so at about 30 feet above the
ground. The moat, which surrounded the
castle, spread out on the E. side into
a large pond. This was drained
early in Elizabeth's reign, and
formed into a pleasaunce, of which
only traces remain. A row of grand
Spanish chestnuts W. of the moat
are of great antiquity. The build
ing and its surroundings present
admirable subjects for the artist's
pencil. The visitor should make the cir
cuit of the castle without the walls as
far as possible. The exterior of the
W. and E. sides is especially striking.
Herstmonceux Church was for
merly connected with the castle by
" a brave old avenue" " up which,"
says Walpole, " we walked, with ships
sailing on our left hand the whole
way." The ships are 6 miles off,
however, and the avenue has now
entirely disappeared ; but the church
should on no account be left un-
visited. It stands on high ground,
commanding distant views of Beachy
Head ; and under the great church
yard yew is a cluster of tomb
crosses, which alone would give in
terest to the spot; those of Archd.
Hare, rector of Herstmonceux, d.
1855, with whose name " Herstmon
ceux may well be proud, as it may
well be thankful, to have its name, its
people, and its scenery associated"
(Quart. Rev., 1854); "Esther, his
loving wife, who rejoined him Feb.
20, 1864 ; " his brother Marcus Hare ;
and others. Archd. Hare's first curate

64

Route 20. — London to Hastings — Pevensey. Sossex.

here was John Sterling, who has had
the good fortune to obtain two dis
tinct biographies, — by Hare, and
Carlyle. The ch. itself is mainly E. E.,
if it should not rather be called
Trans. The E. window, filled
with medalhons from the life of
Our Lord, is recent, and a memorial
of the Archdeacon. Adjoining,
between the main chancel and the
"Dacre" chantry, is the very strik
ing tomb of Thomas Fiennes, 2nd
Lord Dacre (d. 1534), " all in our tre
foil taste," says Waipole, including
the recumbent effigies of Lord Dacre
and his son, who died before him.
Their feet rest on alaunes, the
badge of their house ; and the grey,
time-worn look of the stone canopy,
rich with carved work, combines to
heighten the solemnity of the sleep
ing figures below. The mantling
of the helmets in the canopy is re
markable, and the details ofthe entire
monument deserve careful examina
tion. There is very little of any
Italian mixture, such as is so marked
in the scarcely later Delawarr tombs
at Broadwater and Boxgrove. Lord
Dacre's will provides that this
monument should be used as the
Easter sepulchre. The niches at the
ends probably contained the figures
of patron saints. The greater part of
the tomb is of Petworth marble, the
rest is Caen stone.
On the pavement is the fine Brass
of Sir William Fiennes, 1402. Against
the chancel wall is a monument by
Kessels, a Flemish sculptor, who died
at Eome, where the work was exe
cuted, in memory of the mother of
Archd. Hare, Mrs. Hare Naylor of
Herstmonceux Place.
The modern Herstmonceux Place,
above the castle, is the property of
H. M. Curteis, Esq., whose residence
is at Windmill Hill, hard by, where
are preserved some carvings by
Griming Gibbons, formerly in the
castle, and noticed by Walpole.

Between Hailsham and Pevensey
are 2 interesting old 'mansions,
Glyleigh and Priesthawes, but which
have been much modernised.
From Herstmonceux the traveller
may descend on the Hastings Railway
at Pevensey Stat., 5 m., and visit
the castle there (post), or he may
proceed by Ashburnham to Battle,
about 10 m. (Rte. 22.)

After leaving the Polegate Station
the railway enters the so-called
" Lowy " (leuca) of Pevensey, the dis
trict surrounding the ancient castle, —
once dotted with low islands, — in
a wide bay of the sea, and now a
tract of green marshland. Hidney,
Mankseye, Horsey, Northey, and
Langney, all terminating with the
Saxon " ey," ig (island), are still the
names of slight eminences in these
marshes; and another such island
was 65 m. Pevensey (Stat.).
(Peofh's Island), where the archaeo
logist may enjoy such a day of dreams
and explorations as rarely falls to the
lot of the most imaginative of Old-
bucks. The village nearest the
stat. is Westham. Its Church has
parts Norm., parts Perp., and a
curious carved screen, temp. Henry
VI. Between it and Pevensey vil
lage stands
The **Castle, about J m. distant
from the stat. It consists of 2
entirely distinct parts : an outer
wall of enclosure, and the mediseval
castle itself. The outer wall is
certainly Roman, exhibiting the
usual arrangement of Roman ma
sonry — a casing of neatly-squared
stones filled in with well-cemented
flints bonded together, at intervals,
by courses of broad, well-baked,
red tiles. This wall is studded at
intervals by 9 round towers ; not
cylinders, but solid drums of well-
cemented stonework. Two of these
face the tourist who approaches
the Castle from the rly. stat. They

Sussex.

Route 20. — Pevensey Castle.

flanked the Decuman, or western
gate. Entering here one finds oneself
within the walls of the ancient city
of " Anderida," inclosing an irregular
oval or parallelogram of 3 sides ; the
walls on the N.E. and W. sides stiU
remain, and it was thought that there
never had been a wall on the S. side,
but " by sinking veiy deep trenches
we proved the former existence of a
wall as strong as that of any other
part of the works, with traces of a
very small postern." — M. A. Lower.
Having entered within the Eoman
walls, the traveller finds himself
confronted by the mediieval castle
of the "Eagle Honour," rising within
the walls of a Brito-Eoman city, —
for there can no longer be a doubt
that Pevensey is the ancient An
derida. — (Hussey, in Arch. Journ.,
vol. iv. 203).
Anderida, so called from the great
Andredes-weald, or forest of Andred,
which covered all this part of Sus
sex (the name, according to Dr.
Guest, signifies the " uninhabited dis
trict," — from an, the Celtic negative
particle, and tred, a dwelling), was
one of the great Eoman fortresses un
der the command of the Count of the
Saxon Shore. Some years after 477,
when the Saxons under Ella made
their first permanent settlements on
the coast near Chichester, they at
tacked Anderida, " and slew all that
dwelt therein, nor was there one
Briton left " (Sax. Chron.) — an entry
whose simple brevity appeared to
Gibbon more dreadful than all the
lamentations of Gildas. (A longer
account of the destruction of Ande
rida occurs in Henry of Huntingdon,
L ii.) The site of this luckless city
has been claimed in turn by no less
than seven Sussex towns, and by at
least one in Kent. It has been
effectually settled by modem re
search, which, in addition to other
discoveries, has proved the exterior
walls of Pevensey to be Boman.
After the Conquest, Pevensey was

granted to Eobert de Moreton,
the Conqueror's half-brother, who,
" struck with the importance of the
position for one whose interests lay
between England and Normandy,"
built a castle here within the ancient
walls. About 1104 the barony of
Pevensey passed into the hands of
Gilbert de Aquila, in which great
Norman family it continued, with
some variations, for about a century.
Hence the name of the " Honour of
the Eagle," by which the barony was
subsequently known. The Earls of
Warrene then held it for some little
time. About 1269 it was granted to
Prince Edward, afterwards Edward
I., and Bis heirs ; and it continued in
the crown until Edward III. settled
it on John of Gaunt, who appointed
one of the Pelhams his constable.
This family long retained the com
mand here. The later history of
the castle is uncertain. Like many
others, it seems to have been left
to a gradual decay, after the gene
ral introduction of artillery ; and at
the period of the Armada, orders
were issued for the ruins to be
" either re-edified or utterlye rased."
Fortunately this order was disre
garded. The castle long continued,
however, a quarry for the neigh
bouring district. In 1650 the Par
liamentary commissioners sold the
materials for iOl. to John Warr of
Westminster, who left them un
touched. The present " Lord of the
Eagle " is the Duke of Devonshire :
and there is little reason to appre
hend any further depredations on
the venerable fortress thus preserved,
"fortuna rerum" — for the "religio
patrum" had certainly no hand in
the matter.
Pevensey Castle was besieged by
Eufus in 1088, when Odo, Bishop of
Bayeux, who had espoused the cause
of Duke Robert, held it out for six
weeks; by Stephen; by Simon de
Montfort, son ofthe " Fleur de Prys,"
the great Earl of Leicester, on behalf

66

Route 20. — London to Hastings — Pevensey. Sussex;.

of the Barons, in 1265 ; and again in
1399, when it was gallantly held
by the Lady Pelham against the
combined forces of Sussex, Surrey,
and Kent, who attacked it on behalf
of Richard IL, Pelham, its constable,
being a strong partisan of Henry
IV. On this occasion the earhest
existing letter in the Enghsh lan
guage was despatched from Peven
sey by the Lady Pelham "to her
trew Lorde," then absent with Bo-
lingbroke (see it in Hallam, Lit.
Hist. i. 71, and in Lower's Chron.).
The castle subsequently served as
the prison of Edmund Duke of York,
and of Queen Joan of Navane, the
last wife of Henry IV., -accused
of employing " metaphysical aid "
against the life of Henry V., and
detained here nearly four years.
After the picturesque appearance
of the ivy-grown towers, with their
accompaniments of shattered bridge
and reed-grown moat, has been duly
admired, and after a glance has been
bestowed on the picture seen look
ing back toward Westham and
Beachy Head, between the venerable
entrance towers, the fortress may be
examined more in detail, beginning
with the Roman portion.
This consists of nearly the whole
outer walls; for although some
Norman work is observable on the
northern side, the rest is still very
much in the same condition as it
was found by the Saxon JElla's host.
The plan of the walls, neglecting
the usual Roman square, follows
the outhne of the rising ground.
" Hence the irregular oval and
island-like form of the enclosure."
At the period of their erection
" the southern and eastern sides
doubtless occupied a sort of low
cliff, washed at every tide by the
waters of the ocean, or at least a
considerable arm of the sea. On the
other sides the ground, though not
so precipitous, rises more or less
from the general level of the sur
rounding marsh." — M. A. L. The

walls average about 12 feet in thick
ness, and between 24 and 30 in
height, spite of the changes of 1600
years. " The mark of the trowel is
still visible on the mortar, and many
of the facing stones look as fresh as
if they had been cut yesterday."—
Wright. The material is flint, with
sea-sand mortar ; the facing, squared
sandstones, with bonding courses of
red tiles. The mortar has the usual
red tint (from the pounded tiles
mixed with it) of Eoman work. The
walls are strengthened at intervals
by sohd buttress towers, which every
where stand singly, except at the
W. entrance. The principal tower
on the N. side has some remarkable
Norm, additions, no doubt part of
the works of Robert de Moreton.
Remark the far greater rudeness of
the masonry, " as base as the Roman
is excellent." A rude Norm, win
dow remains, no doubt a watch-
tower, commanding the whole ofthe
marshes and Weald; some Norm.
work also appears in the next tower
eastward. W. of both these towers,
and also W. of a portion of the wall
that has fallen outward, is a httle
postern gate, " which does not pass
at right angles through the wall, but
by a singular winding course, — ob
viously for better defence." The
excavations which were undertaken
here iu 1852 proved that the towers
of the great W. gateway had origin
ally been connected by a wall, an
archway in which formed the en
trance. The whole of the area, it
also appeared, had been covered with
a bed of stiff red clay to a depth of
many feet, and debris of various
kinds, accumulating on this, had
raised the surface within so greatly,
that the walls in some places are
httle more than breast high. This
elevation, on the E. side, seems to
have been purposely made. The
visitor will do well to walk round
the walls without, as well as within,
the area.
The area, exclusive of the me-

Sussex.

Route 20. — Pevensey Castle and Harbour.

67

diieval castle, contains about 8 J acres.
The Roman coins that have been
found here are mostly of the sera of
the Constantines, a proof that this
was the most flourishing period of
Anderida. On the bank overlooking the S.
wall there used to be two pieces of
ordnance of the 16th cent., probably
the identical "two demi-culverings
of small value," mentioned as being
in the castle of "Pemsey," in a
survey of the Sussex coast made in
1587, in anticipation of the Spanish
invasion. One only remains now;
the other having been presented to
the Royal Artillery Museum in 1867,
by the owner of the castle.
The castle of the " Eagle " rises
massive and grand within this Roman
castrum — in ground-plan an irre
gular pentagon, with towers at the
angles. The great gateway, flanked
by 2 towers, looks to the W., but the
castle' is no ionger accessible by this,
and must he entered from behind, —
by a path nearly opposite the Royal
Oak Jnra and Pevensey Church. The
five towers, built of Pevensey green
sandstone, surround the court. One
of these, on the E. side, was elevated
on' an artificial mound, and formed
the keep. That of the N.W. angle
is said to have been the residence of
the governor. Bemark in the gate
way towers the arrangement for
the portcullis and drawbridge. The
entire castle dates from about the
end of the 13th cent, (at which time
it was in the hands of the Crown),
though some traces of the original
Norm, work may be observed about
the gateway. At the S.E. angle the
Roman wall of Anderida has been
very skilfully connected with the
castle, and a small sallyport opens on
the top of one of the Roman towers,
which remains firm, although curi
ously bent forward. Within the
court, S. of the N.W. tower, stood a
small chapel, of which the founda
tions are still traceable. Still farther
S. is the well of the fortress, 50 ft.

deep, and very solidly constructed.
In emptying it, numerous masses of
green sandstone (rag), supposed to
have been catapult balis, were found,
together with some skulls of wolves,
the ancient " burgesses " of the wood
of Andred.
A third historical association, cer
tainly not less interesting than those
belonging to the Eoman fortress and
to the castle, is connected with Pe
vensey : it was here that Wilham of
Normandy landed a fortnight before
the battle of Hastings, Sept. 28th,
1066. The disembarkation from 600
vessels, the number of his fleet, no
doubt extended along all the bay
from Pevensey to Hastings; but it
was at this spot that William's own
landing took place, as it is depicted
in the Bayeux tapestry. "Hie Wil-
lelm' venit ad Pevenesse." The duke
came ashore last of all, and, in setting
his foot on the sand, fell forward on
his face. "A bad sign," muttered
the soldiers ; but " Par la resplendor
De'," cried William, as he rose, "I
have seized the land with my two
hands, and, as much as there is of it,
it is ours." The army marched for
ward without delay to Hastings. On
his return to Normandy in the
following year, the Conqueror again
sailed from Pevensey, accompanied
by many Enghsh nobles ; and here
he distributed presents of all kinds
to his anxious followers. The actual
site of the landing is now probably
covered by marsh; but Beachy
Head still stretches out seaward —
the long line of the downs is still
dappled and cloud-swept, just as
William must have seen it— the first
heights of the Enghsh land looked
on by their destined conqueror.
The Eoman walls of the fortress, too,
must have been seen by the Nor
mans nearly as we see them now.
The ancient harbour of Pevensey
was of course the origin as well of
the Boman castrum as of the selec
tion ofthe place for William's landing.
An earlier and even more important

68

Route 20. — London to Hastings — Bexhill.

Sussex.

landing, that of Caesar, has been
fixed by Sir G. B. Airy at Pevensey
(Archseologia, vol. xxxiv.). (See
Rte. 14.) The harbour here was
formed by the mouth of the Ash
bourne river, navigable for small
vessels as high as Pevensey bridge,
until about 1700. The accumulation
of sand and shingle has destroyed
the harbour ; but Pevensey is still a
member of the Cinque Ports, and
rejoices in an ancient corporation
seal with the usual Cinque Port
emblems, and an invocation of St.
Nicholas, the patron of the port.
Pevensey was a " limb " of Hastings.
Its "barons," as the freemen of all
the Cinque Ports were called, were
men of no small importance ; and
their chief magistrate is the hero
of numberless jokes, which are per
haps quite as apphcable elsewhere.
" Though Mayor of Pevensey, I am
still but a man," said one of unusual
humility. Most oi these stories seem
to be the invention of Andrew
Borde, one of Henry VIII.'s phy
sicians, and the original "Merry
Andrew." Borde was a native of
Sussex and probably of Pevensey,
and his "tales of the wise men of
Gotham" were either picked up or
invented among the freemen of this
ancient port. (M. A. Lower.) The
usual Cinque Bort privileges existed
here, and criminals were drowned
in the haven.
The Church of Pevensey stands
E. of the Castle, its tower rising
barely to a level with its roof. It
is E. E. ; octangular piers are varied
with clustered columns, the capitals
of which are richly foliated. There
are niches for images in one or two
of the columns. The chancel-arch
is unusually fine. This church was
vigorously stripped and restored
1877. There is a James I. monu
ment, with an effigy, for John
Wheately, of an ancient Pevensey
family. The position of the tower
at the N. side, between nave and

chancel, is unusual. There are
traces of a chantry beyond. The
chm-ch is dedicated to St. Nicholas
— the patron of the port, and greatly
venerated by Lanfranc and the Nor
mans. It is interesting to find a St.
Nicholas Church here, on the scene
of William's landing.
The ancient townhall, resembling
an old cottage, still exists on the S.
side of the village street. There
is also an hospital, the date of which
is unknown, called in old documents
by the mysterious name of " Gorogl-
town. " Opposite the castle is a toler
able country Inn, the Royal Oak, at
which refreshments may be procured.
From Pevensey the tourist may
visit Herstmonceux (ante) by the
Wartling road, about 5 m.
The railway, passing close under
the old castle, keeps in constant
view of the sea, with its line of
Martello towers, until it reaches
71-} m. Bexhill (Stat).
The village stands on an eminence
a short distance above the station.
Ofthe Church, the nave is Norm. ; the
chancel E. E. The windowfigured in
the frontispiece to Walpole's Ann. of
Painting, vol. i., representing (ac
cording to him) Eleanor of Provence
and Henry III., was procured by him
from this ch. at a time when similar
robberies were not uncommon. It
was sold at Strawberry Hill sale.
A submarine forest has been dis
covered on the coast here, from
which the sea is now retiring in
stead of encroaching.
In the Church of Hooe, a small
village about 4 m. N.W., is some
stained glass with the figures of
Edward III. and Philippa, not unlike
the window stolen from Bexhill.
From Bexhill the tine still keeps
near the coast, passing Bidverhithe
(the place of Caesar's landing, ac
cording to Mr. Hussey, in Arch.
Cant., vol. i.), and reaches at
74£ m. St. Leonard's (West

Sussex. Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Shoreham.
Marina Stat.); thence through 2
tunnels— in the interval between
which the rly. from Tunbridge Wells
(Rte. 15) falls in, and the St.
Leonard's stat. (Warrior Square) of
the S.E. Rly. is passed — we arrive at

69

76J m. Hastings (Stat.— Rte. 15).

Several Railways projected by, or
under the auspices of, the L. B. and
S. C. Company, as they all tend
to facilitate approach to the places
comprised in this route, may be fitly
mentioned here.
(1) The Surrey and Sussex tine,
to start from a point near Croydon,
passing by Edenbridge and Ashurst,
and soon after to join the Tunbridge
Wells line (Ete 22). Shortly after,
No. 1 divides ; the W. branch (open)
running to Uckfield (Rte. 19), and
the E. to Hailsham, passing May-
field and Heathfield (Bte. 22).

ROUTE 21.
BRIGHTON TO PORTSMOUTH, BY
SHOREHAM, WORTHING [ARUN-
DEL], AND CHICHESTER [BOX
GROVE, GOODWOOD, BIGNOR,
BOSHAM.]
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway. — -44| m.).
Brighton Stat., adjoining that to
London, is partly cut out of the
chalk Downs.
Hove, 1 m., and Cliftonvtlle, IJ
m. (Stats.), form in fact a sub
urb of Brighton, to which they are
united by a series of streets and
squares. The old parish church of
Hove is the fragment of a much
larger one, which seems to have been
Tr.-Norm.

Portslade (Stat.). Near this are
slight remains of the ruined ch.
of Aldrington, S., and the Tudor
mansion of Hangleton, now a farm
house, N.
Southwick (Stat.).
Kingston-by-Sea (Stat.). At mouth
of the Adur. Pier and lighthouse,
and coke ovens of the railway. The
railway keeps the sea in view nearly
the whole way, but the line offers
nothing to attract the tourist until
he reaches
6 m. Shoreham Junct., whence a
line to Horsham, on N. (Ete. 25),
and so to London by Dorking and
Epsom. New Shoreham (Pop. 3678; Inn,
Dolphin) gradually rose as the
harbour of Old Shoreham (1 m. N.
Pop. 285) became silted up. As
one of the great outlets to Nor
mandy, and one of the principal
harbours on this coast, this em
bouchure .of the Adur river became
early of importance. John landed
here on his return to England as
king after the death of Cceur-de-Lion.
The town furnished 26 ships to the
fleet of Edward III. in 1346 ; but
subsequently declined, owing to the
encroachments of the sea. It was
from Shoreham that Charles II. em
barked after the battle of Worcester,
and his preservation at Boscobel.
Accompanied by Lord Wilmot, he
had crossed the country from his
hiding-place at Trent in Somerset to
Brighton, where they met the captain
of the vessel which had been en
gaged for them, and which lay at
Shoreham. They rode over to it
early in the morning, and, after
waiting for the tide, at last lost
Bight of the Enghsh shore, Oct. 15,
1651 ; the same day on which the
Earl of Derby, who had fled from
Worcester with Charles, lost his head
on the scaffold at Bolton. The king
was safely landed at Fecamp. After
the Restoration, the vessel in which

70

Route 21. — New and Old Shoreham.

Sussex.

he crossed was brought by Captain
TattersaU into the Thames, "where
it lay some months at anchor before
Whitehall, to renew the memory of
the happy service it had performed."
An annuity of 100/. was granted to
the captain and his heirs for 99
years, but was only paid down to
1710 [Suss. Arch. Coll., xvii. 92).
Shoreham haven has been much
improved ; but although the waters
within expand laterally to a great
extent, the mouth is narrow, and
cannot be entered by large ves
sels except at high tide. A suspen
sion bridge was built over the Adur,
at the expense of the Duke of Nor
folk, in 1833. Some ship-building
goes on here, and there is a con
siderable trade with France.
The main objects of interest, how
ever, here and at Old Shoreham, are
the churches, which the archaeologist
should by no means neglect. Both
were probably erected by the great
Braose family, the early lords of
Shoreham. 1. New Shoreham Church contains
portions of Norm., Tr., and E. E. It
was originally a large cross church,
but nearly fjhe whole of the nave has
disappeared. The choir, however,
with its series of piers and arches,
including the triforium, is a noble
fragment, lofty and very interesting
and varied, being somewhat later
than Steyning, with which it may be
compared. Remark especially the
unusual pendant corbels, on which
the triforium arches of the N. side
rest. The leafage of the capitals
throughout the church deserves spe
cial attention. It is still stiff, but the
naturalism of the Dec. is beginning
to display itself.
A circular-headed arcading runs
down the Norm, walls of each aisle.
The vaulting is E. E. The extreme
E. end has a triple lancet above
circular-headed late Norm, windows.
All this portion is later than the ori
ginally central tower, the transepts,

and the remaining bay of the nave,
which are all Norm. The upper
storey of the central tower, as seen
from without, is Trans., and has a
later addition. Observe also the ex
terior of the E. end, which shows
some curious patchwork, Norm, and
E. E., and huge buttresses to prop the
Norm, walls. In the nave is a good
Brass of a merchant and wife, temp.
Edw. IV. Mr. Beresford Hope re
marks that this ch. was a cell de
pending on the great abbey of Cluny,
which will account for a certain
"French" character prevailing in
its architecture.
Old Shoreham Church, about 1 m.
N., is scarcely less interesting. It is
cruciform, the 4 limbs being of nearly
equal length. This is the original ch.
of the district, New Shoreham having
been at first a chapel attached to
it. It is almost throughout Norm.,
arches of doorways much enrich
ed, and is " remarkable for the small
number of windows, and the conse
quent darkness of the nave ; as also
for displaying, on the tie beams of
the chancel, the tooth-moulding,
which is very, rarely found carved in
wood." The lower arches are very
highly enriched. The early pointed
wooden chancel- screen is unique.
This ch. has been carefully restored
(Ferrey, architect).
For excursions from Shoreham
see Rte. 25.
The rly. crosses the Adur, leav
ing 1. the Chain Bridge — rt. see
Lancing College.
8 m. Lancing (Stat.).
The ch., N. of the stat, is mainly
E. E., but with Norm, portions.
The large building on the hill, seen
from the line, is St., Nicholas Col
lege, a school for sons of gentlemen,
forming part of a large and excel
lent scheme, devised by the Rev. N.
Woodard, the zealous provost, and

Sussex. Route 21. — Worthing — Broadwater — Sompting. 71

founded in 1849. It comprises 3
grades of schools : —
1. For the education of the upper
classes at Lancing (in fact, a gram
mar school), at 50 guineas a-year ;
2. For sons of farmers at Hurst-
pierpoint (see Rte. 1 7), at 231. ; and
3. For sons of small traders, at
St. Saviour's, near Shoreham, at lil.
The whole scheme, of which the
" Lancing division is not the least im
portant, has been established under
the sanction of certain Bishops of
the Church of England. The col
lege here occupies an edifice of
good Gothic design by Carpenter, to
which a sumptuous Gothic chapel
(Slater, architect) was added, 1868,
170 ft. long, 87 ft. high, with a tower
300 ft. high. It will cost 200,000Z.
The views from it are good, and from
the downs beyond a wide stretch of
coast is commanded. Lancing pos
sibly derives its name from Wlencing,
one of the sons of Ella, founder of
the S. Saxon kingdom.
Rt. is Sompting Ch. (see below).
10J m. Worthing (Stat.).
Worthing (Pop. 8641.) Inns: West
Worthing Hotel, | m. from stat,,
good and quiet; Marine Hotel, Sea-
House Hotel, both close to the Pier.
A healthy watering-place, stretching
its rows of houses more than 2 m.
along the sandy shore, overlooking a
sailless sea and a gritty Esplanade.
It came into note before Brighton,
Princess Amelia having visited it in
1796 and Princess Charlotte in 1807,
but is not destined to equal in size
that London-on-Sea. It derives its
name from the Ordingas, its original
inhabitants. Most of the houses are let as
lodgings. West Worthing, or Heene,
is the most modern quarters, con
taining many detached villas ; large
and well-arranged Swimming Baths.
The Parish Ch. is Broadwater, but
there is a large modern Gothic Christ
Church, and others, in the town.
There is good bathing, and care has

been given to the water supply and
to sanitary arrangements. The cli
mate is milder than that of Brighton,
and consequently has its recom
mendations for a certain class of
invalids. The town itself, which is a hamlet
of the parish of Broadwater, was a
mere fishing village until about the
year 1800, when it began to rise in
importance. It has a Pier of iron,
960 ft. long, forming a pleasant
promenade. It contains nothing to
detain the ordinary tourist ; but the
neighbourhood has many points of
interest, which may be visited from
here. Walks and Excursions.
The Church of Broadwater, 1 m.
N., is Trans.-Norm., cruciform, with
low central tower, nearly of the
same date as Steyning, and very
rich. There is some good wood
work. Eemark outside the N. wall
a cross wrought in flint. The palm-
branch .occurs here as at Shoreham.
In the N. chancel is a fine Brass of
John Mapleton, Chancellor to Joan
of Navarre, d. 1432, and an elabo
rate tomb in Caen stone for Thomas
Lord la Warre, d. 1526. The same
mixture of Italian and Gothic occurs
here as in the tomb of the 2nd Lord
la Warre (1532) at Boxgrove (post),
and the design was probably fur
nished by the same person. In the
S. transept is a similar monument
for the 3rd Lord la Warre, d. 1554.
This has been restored, together
with the entire building. The Fig-
gardens at Broadwater deserve a
visit when the fruit is ripe, and they
are largely visited for the purpose
of eating the fruit off the trees.
Offington (T. Gaisford, Esq.), the
ancient residence of the Lords de
la Warre, lies about i m. W. of the
village. The house has been much
altered. It contains a valuable
library, and is surrounded by fine
trees.

72 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Sompting. Sussex.

A field pathway leads to the
Church of Sompting, 1 m. beyond
Broadwater (the keys should be
inquired for at the vicarage before
the ch. is reached). It stands on the
slope of a hill, in u. grove of elms
peopled by a large rookery. It is
well known as one of those churches
supposed to be of the Saxon age. At
least it is so remarkable as to demand
careful examination. It was well
and conservatively restored by Car
penter. The tower, with its peculiar
bevelled and gabled spire, exhibits
long-and-short stone-work at its
angles, pilaster strips, and straight-
sided window. The church con
sists of nave, chancel, and tran
septs. The portions said to be
Saxon are the tower, and part of the
exterior chancel wall (the E. end).
The chancel appears to be Norm.
with Perp. windows inserted. Traces
of the original circular-headed win
dows appear, however, in the wall.
Over the altar is a double aumbry
(tabernacle ?) — an unusual position.
On the S. side is a triangular-headed
piscina with Trans. -Norm, mould
ings. Opposite is a Perp. tomb, of
Richard Bury (?), temp. Henry VII.
The N. transept, opening in a lofty
circular arch from the nave, is divided
into 2 aisles, by circular pillars, with
E. E. arches. The E. aisle is vaulted :
remark the singular corbel face.
The S. transept has a similar wide
entrance arch, Trans.-Norm. At the
angles are pilasters with enriched
capitals. This transept is 4 steps
lower than the nave. On the walls are
2 remarkable fragments of sculpture,
— the Saviour with an open book, and
the Evangelist emblems in the bor
der ; and a kneeling bishop, under a
circular arch, with pilasters of E. E.
character, his crozier behind him.
Compare the sculptures in Chichester
cathedral, said to have been brought
from Selsey (post). These are per
haps somewhat later, though of
similar character. The tower, within,
has E. E. window arches, and a cir

cular arch opening to the nave. This
has a triple abacus (comp. Eartham,
post, and Amberley, Ete. 24), and a
rounded moulding runs round the
centre of the soffit. Without, the
evidence of its Saxon origin is found
in the bands and pilasters of stone
work with which it is crossed and
re-crossed (comp. Worth, Rte. 17),
and which were probably imitated in
stone from more ancient timber erec
tions. The long narrow capitals of
the central ribs should be noticed.
Mr. Hussey considered the tower to be
of 2 eras, the lower part Saxon, the
upper Norm., since it has Norm, orna
ments, and " the continuation of the
central rib has a slight variation from
the line of that below." — Churches
of Sussex. The whole of Bosham
tower (post) should be compared. It
should be recollected that a date
much anterior to the Conquest is in,
no case claimed for so-called Saxon
buildings. The church of Sompting was at an
early period granted to the Knights
Templars. A portion of the manor
was in the hands of the Abbey of
Fecamp. The manor-house] belong
ing to it stands on the opposite side
of the road, above the church, and
is still known as Sompting Abbots.
Queen Caroline resided in it for a
short time before her departure for
the East.
A goodpedestrian may continue his
walk along the downs in the direction
of Cissbury (Cissa's beorg) about 2 m.
• — an encampment which, like Chi
chester, probably derives its name
from Cissa, one ofthe sons of Ella. A
space of 60 acres is here enclosed
by a single trench varying in depth
from 8 to 12 ft., and a rampart of
considerable width and height. It
follows the oval shape of the hill-
crest, and was approached by roads
on the E., S., and N. sides. Although
it perhaps bears Cissa's name, there
is some evidence of Eoman occupa
tion. Roman coins and pottery have

Sussex.

Route 21. — Chanctonbury — Tarring.

73

been found in a garden at the foot
of the hill ; and in the centre of the
fort the foundations of a building
(praetorium?) are traceable in dry
seasons. On the W. slope of the
area are some circular pits varying
in diameter and depth, resembling
others at the Trundle above Good
wood, at Wolstanbury, and at Hol-
lingbury. They have been called the
sites of British villages, but their
use is quite uncertain. The views
from Cissbury are very fine, and
are occasionally seen under singular
effects, owing to the mists and the
marine atmosphere. "In the dis
tance was Worthing .... like a
ruined city, Balbec or Palmyra, on
the edge of the sea; but it might
as well have been a desert ; for it
was so variegated with streaks of
sunshine and of shade, that no one
ignorant of the place could have
determined whether it were sea or
sky that lay before us." — Southey's
Life, vi. 325. The camp commands
the coast from Beachy to Selsey,
and looks across the country to
Portus Magnus (Porchester). It is
the largest and most striking of the
South Down earthworks.
Chanctonbury (see Bte. 25) hes
3 m. from Cissbury, N.E., 8 m. from
Worthing. The tourist may walk
to it the whole way across the
downs. The views across the Weald
N. are far wider and grander than
those from Cissbury. The whole
sweep of woodland is commanded
as far as the Surrey bills. A car
riage excursion may be made from
Worthing to Chanctonbury, Wiston,
and Steyning (see Bte. 25), by the
road leading through the narrow
pass of Findon, seen stretching along
under Cissbury. Findon Church (re
stored) contains " two stone seats with
a door between them ;" parts are E.E.
Adjoining is Findon Place (Col. W.
G. Margesson) ; and beyond, Mumt-
ha.m (Harriett, Marchioness of Bath).
Make for the tuft of beech-trees
[Sussex.]

crowning the hill, on the edge of the
escarpment rising abruptly over the
Weald : see Petworth, Parham, Leith
Hill, &c. The whole drive through
the hills is picturesque and pleasant.
Storrington, the point for visiting
Parham and Amberley (see Bte. 24),
may also be reached from Worthing
by this road.
A second walk from Worthing may
be made to embrace Highdown Hill,
W. Tarring, and Salvington, with its
memorials of the "learned" Selden.
[Highdown Hill itself may be more
quickly and easily reached from the
Goring station, from which it is dis
tant 2| m. N.W.] In the walk, Tar
ring, li m. N.W., is first reached. The
Church, which has a lofty spire, is
partly E. E. (nave and aisles ; the
nave very lofty, with clerestory win
dows ; the Perp. E. window deserves
notice), and partly Perp. (chancel and
tower). There are some fragments
of old seating and a chest. One of
the windows under the tower is a me
morial to Robert Southey, erected by
his eldest daughter, wife of the Bev.
J. W. Warter, vicar of Tarring. Since
the time of Athelstane, Tarring has
been a " pecuhar " of the Arch
bishops of Canterbury ; and some
portions of an archiepiscopal palace
still exist in the national school-
house, which stands in the village
street, E. from the ch. " The southern
part is E. E., though it has evidently
been altered. The original windows
have light shafts, with capitals of
foliage at the sides. These are
13th-cent. work, but the tracery with
which the windows are filled is
Perp. The hall on the W. side of
the building is Perp. and an addi
tion (the door may be original)."
— Hussey. This palace is tradition
ally said to have been frequently
occupied by Becket, and the fig
orchard adjoining was raised from
some old stocks in the rectory garden,
sometimes said to have been planted
by him, and sometimes by Richard
de la Wych, the sainted Bishop of

74 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Salvington. Sussex.

Chichester. The biographer of the
latter i saint distinctly asserts that he
"grafted fruit-trees at Tarring with
his own hand." (Act. Sand., Ap.
ih.) The fig orchard is at all events
remarkable. It was planted in 1745,
and contains 100 trees which pro
duce about 2000 dozen annually.
There are others at Sompting, which
place belonged to the Abbey of
Fecamp, from whence in all pro
bability the first plants were im
ported. The opposite Norman coast
has always been famous for its
figs, and Fecamp had a very
ancient legend that the Sangraal
(the vessel used by our Lord at
His Last Supper) was miraculously
floated to the coast under the abbey,
enclosed in the trunk of a fig-tree.
(See Le Boux de Lincy, H. de Fe
camp.) It is singular that a bird
apparently identical with the Bec-
cafico (fig-eater) of the Campagna,
migrates annually to Tarring and
Sompting about the time of the
ripening of the fruit. The flocks
remain five or six weeks, and then
disappear as they came, seaward.
They visit no other part of Sussex.
A range of cottages in the main
street, called "the Parsonage Bow,"
affords good specimens of domestic
architecture of date 1601.
A field -path N., through the
churchyard, leads to Salvington,
still in the manor of Tarring. At
the entrance of Salvington Street is
Lacies, the cottage in which Selden
was born, Dec. 16th, 1584. His
father is said to have been a wander
ing fiddler. On the lintel of the
door inside a Latin distich is still
shown, which it is asserted was com
posed and carved there by him when
only 10 years old .- —
" Gratus, honeste, mihi, non claudar, inito
sedebis,
Fur abeas, non sum facta soluta tibi."
"Selden's learning," says Fuller,
" did not live in a lane, but traced ali
the latitude of arts and languages."
He passed to Hart Hall, Oxford, in

1598, and there is no record of his
having returned in after life to visit
the " lane " in which his learning at
all events first sprang up. His early
education was received at the free
school in Chichester.
Worthing to Portsmouth.
From Salvington, passing the ruins
of Durringlon Chapel (without archi
tectural interest), over Clapham Com
mon, and by some pleasant wood-
bordered lanes, the tourist reaches
Highdown Hill, famous for the
miller's tomb. The view from the
hill is picturesque and full of beauty,
but is not so wide stretching as those
from Cissbury and Chanctonbury.
An inegular earthwork, perhaps of
the same date, crowns the summit.
Within it is the "miller's tomb," and
his windmill formerly occupied the
S.W. corner. The tomb is a flat
slab raised on brick-work, having on
it rudely carved figures of Time and
Death, and some edifying verses, com
posed by John Olliver the miller
himself, who erected his tomb 30
years before his death, and hved for
the same period with his coffin under
his bed. Notwithstanding all this,
however, he is said, hke his famous
brother of the Dee, to have been
sufficiently "jolly," and to have
looked with no unfriendly eye on the
doings of the smugglers who then
infested the coast. He died in 1793 ;
and at his funeral his coffin was
carried round the field by persons
dressed in white, and attended by a
company of young women attired
like Tiiburina's confidante, in white
muslin, one of whom read a sermon
over the grave. The cottage on the
N. side of the hill is on the site of
that formerly occupied by the miller,
and is now in the hands of his de
scendants, who supply tea, shrimps,
and boiling water to the numerous
pilgrims of the hill.
The Clapham Woods, below the
hill, are fine. Rising from them is

Sussex. Route 21. — Angmering — Ford — Leominster.

75

Castle Goring (Sir W. Burrell), long
the residence of the Shelleys. Fur
ther N. is Clapham Church, Trans.-
Norm., with some Shelley tombs
(1550) and brasses (1526). S. ofthe
churchyard stands a large farmhouse
bearing evidence of some antiquity.
13 m. Goking (Stat.).
The ch. was rebuilt at the cost of
David Lyon, Esq., of Goring Hall,
1837 ; cost, 6000Z.
15 J m. Answering (Stat.)
Angmering Church was rebuilt
1852, by W. K. Gratwecke, Esq.,
except chancel and tower (1507).
Angmering Park (Duke of Norfolk),
in theN. part ofthe parish, has some
fine woodland scenery. The colony
of herons, now established at Par
ham, migrated from here. At New
Place in this parish (now partitioned
into labourers' dwelhngs) were born
on 3 successive Sundays the 3 sons
of Sir Edward Palmer, all 3 knighted
by Henry VIII., and as remarkable
for the circumstances of their birth,
as the 3 Shirleys for their adventures.
At some distance rt. of the tine is
seen Patcham Place. In the parish
of Poling, N., is a wild-fowl decoy
belonging to the Duke of Norfolk ;
and near the ch. was a commandery
of the knights of St. John, the
chapel of which has been con
verted into a modern dwelling. The
Downs are visible all along the line,
but ou this, the S. side, they are least
picturesque. The termination in "ing," which
occurs so frequently in Sussex, and
especially along the coast (Sompting,
Taning, Goring, Piling, &c), is, ac
cording to the late J. M. Kemble, the
Saxon patronymic, and indicates the
site of a "mark," or Saxon settlement,
founded by the tribe whose name is
still retained. Thus Sompting is the
settlement of the Somtingas ; Poling
of the Polingas, or "sons of Pol," —
the Anglo-Saxon name of the north
ern deity Balder, the first part of

the word preserving the name of the
hero or deity from whom the set
tiers of the "mark " claimed descent;
but this view is open to question
(Suss. Arch. Coll., xvi. 254.).
Cross the Arun to
19f m. Fokd Junction. The
Mid-Sussex Ely. from Arundel and
Horsham here joins the main coast
line on N., and the Littlehampton
branch goes ofj on S. The Mid-
Sussex line, extended as it lias been
in a northerly direction past Dorking
to Epsom, has now become an im
portant through route from London
to Portsmouth.
Ford is the stat. for Arundel, 1 j m.
N. (Bte. 24). The Castle is seen from
the stat.
From Ford may be visited Tor-
tington Church (1 m. N.), which has
some rich Norm. work. 1 m. S.
of Ford is the very interesting
Church of Climping (restored 1875).
lt is E. E. with some peculiarities.
There are circular windows (above
lancets) in the W. gable, the chan
cel gable, and that of the N. tran
sept. The chancel is large and
striking. The whole seems to be of
one date. The Tower, at the end
of S.. transept, is Norm., and appa
rently belonged to an earlier church ;
narrow windows are opened in its
buttresses. Eemark the ornaments
on either side of the door, — a small
sunken circle and a diamond. In
the vestry is an oak chest with very
shallow carving, which may perhaps
be E. E., and coeval with the ch.
The Norman abbeys of Almenesches
and St. Martin at Seez both held
lands in Climping under Boger de
Montgomery, and the church may
possibly have been erected by one
or both.
Leominster (locally Lymister or
Lemster), IJ m. N.E. of Ford, has
a Church (restored) which deserves
notice. It contains Tr.-Norm. and
E. E. portions. " The chancel-arch
e 2

76 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Bognor. Sussex.
is very lofty, with projecting abaci
dividing the piers into two stages."
— Hussey. There was a small Saxon
nunnery here, which subsequently
became a priory of Benedictine nuns,
attached to the abbey of Alme-
nesches, near Seez, in Normandy.

[Littlehampton (Pop. 3272) lies 2J
m. S.E. of Ford, at the mouth of the
Arun. It is a place of considerable
antiquity, where the Empress Ma
tilda landed in 1139, on her way
to Arundel Castle. It is now one of
the many places on this coast from
which steam-packets run to France
(Honfleur), and it is besides a port,
though a very inconsiderable one,
for the central districts of Sussex and
Surrey ; for although the canal be
tween Arundel and Portsmouth has
been abandoned, or dried up, yet
the Arun, above Arundel, has been
rendered navigable, and connected
with the Wey, thus opening a course
to Guildford, and thence to the
Thames. Litilehampton has become
a watering-place of moderate pre
tensions. The ch. was rebuilt in 1826.
The neighbouring country, though
level, is well wooded ; affording
many pleasant walks, and there are
fine sands, along which carriages
may drive, extending to Worthing
(10 m.). The river, which is crossed
by a floating bridge, furnishes the
Arundel mullet, a fish which has few
attractions for the epicure, though
the osprey, called in Hampshire the
"mullet hawk," is frequently seen on
this coast during the best season for
the fish.
Lord Byron was here with his early
friend Long, somewhere about 1808,
swimming in the surf at the mouth of
the Arun.
Baillie's Court, on the W. side of
the Arun, anciently belonged to the
Norman abbey of Seez, and seems to
have been so named from having
been the residence of the bailiff.]
Returning to the main line, we

pass on S. the church at Yapton,
which is mainly E. E., and has a
singular six-sided font of black
granite, with crosses on the sides.
The tower has been considered
Saxon, and should be noticed. Avis-
ford House (Mrs. Eeynell-Pack).
21 J m. Baenhah Junction. Hence
a line goes off on S. to Bognor.
Barnham Ch., the fragment only
of a structure contemporary with
Boxgrove, lies S. near the canal.
It is Trans.-Norm., and is worth
a visit. [Bognor (Pop. 2811), lying 3 i m. S.
(Inns : Norfolk Hotel ; Sussex ;
Claremont), is like the other small
watering-places on this coast, and is
advancing ; an Esplanade and Pier
has been formed. It is, however, still
dull, and the climate is as mild as
that of Worthing. At Bognor is St.
Michael's College, an establishment
for female education, founded by the
late Lady Georgiana Eliot, and con
ducted on similar principles to St.
Nicholas College at Lancing (ante).
The country around Bognor is per
fectly flat, but there are some inte
resting points for visitors. Pagham,
the Hushing Well, and Selsey Church
may be visited from here. (See post ;
Excursion (a) from Chichester.) Close
to the shore, and extending about 2 m.
into the sea, are the so-called Bognor
rocks, visible only at low water, frag
ments of a deposit which, even within
the memory of man, formed a line
of low cliffs along the coast. They
are of a sandy limestone filled with
fossils of the London clay. Nautili
shells, and bored wood.
" The Barn rocks, between Selsey
and Bognor ; the Houndgate and
Street rocks, W. ; and the Vivan rocks
S. of Selsey, are portions of the same
bed. The fossils are similar to those
which occur in the London clay.
Some of the polished slabs are very
beautiful." — Mantell.

Sussex.

Route 21. — Chichester: History.

77

At Felpham (about 1 m. N.E.) is
the villa to which the poet Hayley re
tired after parting with Eartham. It
stands toward the centre of the vil
lage. The church has portions of
various dates. In the churchyard is
the tomb of Cyril Jackson, formerly
Dean of Ch. Ch., Oxford, and the
early preceptor of George IV., who
visited him here when dying. Within
the church is a marble tablet for
Hayley (d. 1820), who was buried
here. The inscription is by Mrs.
Opie.] 26J m. Drayton (Stat).
28J m. Chichester (Stat.). An
excellent distant view of the cathe
dral, backed by the Goodwood
Downs, is gained from S. of the
town, near the railway station.
Chichester (Inn, The Dolphin)
(Pop. 7825), the ancient Begnum,
betrays its Boman origin in its
4 nearly straight streets, answering
to the points of the compass,
and meeting at the handsome
market cross, E. of the cathedral.
The town is quiet, and, with the
exception of the cathedral and the
cross, is distinguished by no marked
architectural features. The view from
East Street, looking W. toward the
cathedral, is, however, very striking,
Other good points will be found in
Canon Lane, and in West Street,
beyond the cathedral. Chichester
stands on a perfect level, and the
only general views are to be had
from the tower of the campanile, or,
better still, from that of the cathe
dral, where the city is seen spread
out like a map, its red roofs inter
sected by large trees and gardens.
Regnum, the city of Cogidubnus,
King of the Begni, and legate in
Britain of the Emperor Claudius,
lies buried beneath the present city.
Mosaic pavements, coins, and urns
occur in all directions. In the grave
yard of St. Andrew's Church, in East

Street, the coffins are laid on an
ancient tesselated floor. The walls
of the Church of St. Olave in North
Street were found, on its restoration,
full of Boman tile ; and in this street
also was discovered in 1720, the re
markable inscription now preserved
at Goodwood, one of the most in
teresting relating to Boman Britain.
It records the dedication of a temple,
by the College of Smiths, to Neptune
and Minerva, the two great patrons of
handicraftsmen (see Goodwood, post) ;
but its great interest arises from its
forming a link in the chain of evi
dence which seems to connect Beg
num with the Claudia and Pudens of
Martial and of St. Paul's 2nd Epistle
to Timothy. For a sketch of the
romance which has been built on
these authorities, perfectly consistent
with dates and with historical pro
bability, see Quart. Rev., vol. xcvii.
A tesselated pavement was found in
1866 in the retro-choir of the cathe
dral. Begnum stood at the junction of
the Roman "Stane Street," running
N. by Bignor toward London, with
another line that passed W. to Bortus
Magnus (Porchester). Hence it was
at once attacked by the earliest
Teutonic settlers, who landed on
the coast 7 m. S., at a place called
from one of Ella's sons, Cymensore
(now Kynor, post). Its Saxon name,
Cissa's ceaster — Cissa's camp^ — Chi
chester, seems to have been derived
from one of the 3 sons of Ella, the first
recorded colonist of the S. Saxons.
It is but little noticed during the
Saxon period. The Conqueror gave
it, with 83 manors in the rapes of
Arundel and Chichester, to Roger de
Montgomery, Earl of Alencon, who
built a castle within the walls. The
ancient bishopric of the S. Saxons
was at the same time removed from
Selsey, and a cathedral built at Chi
chester (see Selsey, post). The N.E.
quarter of the city was appropriated
to the castle and its belongings, of
which no trace remains, unless the

78

Route 21. — Chichester: the Cathedral.

Sussex.

mound iu the Priory Park is to be
deemed the site of the castle, as has
been urged by high authority. The
churchmen had the S.W. quarter.
The City Walls were restored and
repaired at different times, but were
not of sufficient strength to enable
Chichester to stand out for more than
10 days, when it was besieged by Sir
William Waller in 1643. The Par
liament troops were greatly favoured
on this occasion. " Although it rained
heavily half an hour after the town
was taken, no rain had fallen while
the besiegers were ' lying abroad '
previously." The soldiers were thus
in good heart for doing the work that
followed. They "pulled down the
idolatrous images from the market-
cross ; they brake down the organ
in the cathedral, and dashed the
pipes with their pole-axes ; crying in
scoff, ' Harke how the organs goe ! ' "
and after the thanksgiving sermon,
also in the cathedral, they " ran up
and down with their swords drawn,
defacing the monuments of the dead,
and hacking the seats and stalls."
This is the solitary event of import
ance in the later history of the city,
until the fall of the cathedral spire
in February, 1861.
The Cathedral is of course the first
point of interest. " A very interest
ing pile on many accounts," says
Southey, " and much finer than books
or common report had led me to ex
pect." At the time of the removal
of the see from Selsey, a monastery,
dedicated to St. Peter, is thought to
have existed partly on the site of the
present cathedral. If such were the
case, the church of this monastery
may have served for some time as
that of the bishopric. A cathedral,
however, was built by Ralph, the 3rd
bishop. This was completed in 1108,
and destroyed by fire in 1114. A
second building was commenced, also
by Bp. Balph, and nearly finished
at his death in 1123. Much of this
church still remains. The additions

will be best pointed out in an archae
ological survey. Considerable re
pairs and restorations were made
both within and without the build
ing from 1843 to 1856; still more
important alterations, by which the
nave was adapted for public worship,
were completed in 1859 ; and the
restoration of the choir was in pro
gress under the direction of Mr.
Slater, when the work was stopped
by the fall of the spire.
This took place on the morning of
Feb. 21, 1861, during a violent gale
which did considerable damage over
the whole of the southern counties.
The spire of the cathedral stood on
a tower, supported by 4 piers, ori
ginally Norman, and part of Bp.
Ralph's work. These had been
cased with stone by Bp. Seffrid H.
(1180-1204); and on these founda
tions the tower was carried one storey
above the roof, possibly during tho
episcopate of John de Langton (1305-
36). The spire itself was added
toward the end of the 14th century.
On commencing the restorations in
1859, it was found that the piers of
the central tower were very insecure,
owing apparently, in the first place,
to the imperfect manner in which
Bp. Seffrid's casing of stone was
bonded into the Norman rubble-
work which forms the body of the
piers. The erection of the spire was
of course a further source of danger ;
and when Bp. Sherborne constructed
the choir stalls, the lower portions
of the S . W. and N.W. piers were cut
away, so that the whole superin
cumbent mass remained propped only
by some pieces of timber. The
works of 1860 farther weakened the
piers ; cracks appeared in them, the
arches above were disturbed, and in
spite of shorings up, during the gale
of Feb. 21, 1861, the rubble which
formed the core of the S.W. pier
began to pour out, a fissure was seen
to run like lightning up the spire,
and in an instant the whole sank
gently down, like the shutting up of

GROUND-PLAN OF CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL.

A. Nave.
CC*} Nave Aisles.
D. D. "Western Towers. ^
North Porch.
West Porch.
Choir. North Transept.
South Transept.

E.
F.
G.H. K.

f Monument of an unknown
\ Lady.
Shrine of St. Richard.
Tomb of Bishop Langton.
Stair to the Consistory Court.

T t Court enclosed by abutment
^ \ of Transept.

-** ( Sacristy, with
m' \ Court above.

Consistory

¦p, C Chapel, called the Chapter-
' \ house.
P. Presbytery.
Q. Retro-choir.
R. Lady Chapel.
f Chapels terminate
%. T. < ing the Choir
[ Aisles.
V. Cloisters.
¦q, C South Porch, open-
\ ing to the Nave,
-y $ Paradise, or Burial-
' \ ground.
Z, Campanile.

[1. Statue of Huskisson.
2 J Monument of Collins, by
' ( Flaxman.
„ (Monument of Matthew
\ Quantock, by Flaxman.
„ f Monument of Fitzalan,
I Earl of Arundel.

Monument of Bp. King.
„ Bp. Grove.
„ Bp. Carleton.
„ Bp. Story.
Bp. Day.
Slab with heart ; for whom
is unknown.
Coffin-lid of Bp. Ralph.
„ Bp. Hilary.
Bp. Seffrid II.
Tomb of Bp. de Moleyns.

80

Route 21. — Chichester : the Cathedral.

Sussex.

a telescope, preserving its vertical
position to the last. Fortunately
no life was lost, and the rest of the
building suffered but httle.
It was immediately decided to
rebuild the spire ; meetings were
held ; the sum of 25,0002. was libe
rally subscribed for this purpose,
chiefly by the clergy and gentry of
Sussex ; and the task was confided
to Sir G. G. Scott. Large additional
sums were contributed from other
parts, with the express understand
ing that the tower and spire were
to be an exact restoration of the old.
The interior of the nave and choir
is Norm., with which the old piers
well harmonized. Professor Willis,
in his Architectural Hist, of Chi
chester Cathedral (1862), attributes
the fall to the original insecurity of
the piers, and acquits the architect
of all blame.
The foundations ofthe new piers to
support the tower are laid at a depth
of 13 ft. on beds of concrete, and
consist of blocks of Purbeck lime
stone beddedincement; and the tower
itself having been finished, the first
stone of the spire was laid with
much ceremony in May, 1865; the
last was placed in June, 1866 ; hut
there are still several parts of the
Cathedral that stand in need of " con
servative restoration."
The spire is 270 ft. from the
ground, and strikingly resembles its
much ioftier brother of Salisbury.
" In Salisbury and Chichester alone
is there a visible centre and axis to
the whole cathedral, viz. the summit
of the spire, and a line let fall from
it to the ground. Salisbury was so
constructed at first. Chichester spire
was made exactly central, to an inch,
by the additions of the Lady Chapel
and the W. porch. Michael Angelo's
' most perfect ' outline — the pyra
midal — is thus gained. The eye is
carried upward to the spire-point
from the chapels clustering at the
base, along the roof and pinnacles.
Contributing to this is a certain

squareness of detail in the abaci of
the capitals of the nookshafts which
adorn the openings. The retention
of this Norm, feature at an advanced
period of the E. E. style is remark
able. Within, square and circular
abaci are placed in juxtaposition."
(Comp. Boxgrove, post.) — Rev. P.
Freeman, Suss. Arch. Coll., i.
The cathedral, which is open daily
without payment, can be examined
at full leisure, and without inter
ruption ; the following course is re
commended : —
(a) W. Porch; (&) Nave; (c) Arundel
Chantry; (d) Choir; (e) S. Transept; (J)
Sacristy; (g) Retro-choir ; (7l) Lady Chapel ;
(i) N. Ai6le ; (j) N. Transept ; (Je) Cloister ;
(l) Bishop's Palace; (m) Campanile.
(a) The best entry is through the
W. Porch, very beautiful E. E., and
like the S. Porch, which opens
into the cloisters, and is of the
same date, no doubt the work of
Bp. Seffrid II. (1180-1204), by whom
Ralph's cathedral was greatly en
larged and altered, and who, says
Fuller, " bestowed the cloth and mak
ing on the church, whilst Bp. Sher
borne gave the trimming and best
lace thereto, in the reign of Henry
VII." In an elongated quatrefoil^
over the portal was the figure adopted
as the arms of the see, commonly
called a " Prester John seiant," hut
in reality the Salvator Mundi. This
no longer exists.
(b) On entering the Nave, the eye is
at once caught by the 4 aisles, a
peculiarity shared by no other Eng
lish cathedral, although some parish
churches have it on a smaller scale, as
Manchester, Taunton, and Coventry.
On the Continent the increased num
ber of aisles is common : witness Beau
vais, Bourges, Cologne, Milan, Seville,
and 7-aisled Antwerp. Grand effects
of light and shade are produced by
these 4 aisles ; remark especially the
view from the extreme N. E. corner
of the N. aisle, looking across the
cathedral. The great depth of the
triforium shadows is owing to the

Sussex.

Route 21. — Chichester : the Cathedral.

81

unusual width of this wall passage.
The cathedral is, next to York, the
broadest in England (nave of Chi
chester, 91 ft. ; York, 103 ft.).
The nave itself, and the 2 aisles
immediately adjoining, are Norman,
the work of Bp. Ralph, to the top
of the triforium. The clerestory
above, and the shafts of Purbeck
marble which lighten the piers, are
Seffrid's additions. The roof is per
haps somewhat later. The 2 exterior
aisles, N. and S., were perhaps added
under Bp. Neville (died 1244). It
hecame necessary to provide addi
tional room for chantries and relic-
shrines ; and the positions i of the
various altars are marked by the
piscinas and aumbries in the walls.
The two, however, only occur toge
ther in the S. aisle; in the N. are
aumbries only.
The first 2 storeys ofthe S.W. tower
at the end of the nave deserve exami
nation. The rude long capitals and
plain circular arches possibly indicate
a date earlier than Bp. Ralph. A
certain triplicity pervades all this
part of the cathedral, which was de
dicated by Seffrid to the Holy Tri
nity. " The side shafts are triple
throughout. The bearing-shafts of
the vaulting are clustered in threes,
and branch out with 3 triple vault
ing-ribs above." — Rev. P. Freeman.
The stained windows of the nave
are all modern, and are more satis
factory than usual, in spite of the
evident want of some uniform design.
The 2 W. windows are by Wailes, —
the larger one a memorial to Dean
Chandler, from the parishioners of
All Souls, St. Marylebone, London,
of which parish he was for many
years rector. In the N. aisle the
memorial window of Sir Thomas
Reynell is by O'Connor.
(c) In the Arundel Chantry (N.
aisle) is the altar-tomb of Richard
Fitzalan, 13th Earl of Arundel
(1372), and his countess. This tomb
was restored in 1843 by Richard

son, the " repairer " of the effigies in
the Temple Church. The Arundel
figures had been sadly mutilated,
and were lying in different parts of
the aisle. The tomb does not seem
to have been originally placed in the
cathedral ; and it has been suggested
that the effigies were removed from
the Church of the Grey Friars, to
which the earls of Arundel were
great benefactors.
At the N.E. end of this aisle,
in the Chapel of the Baptist, is the
tomb of an unknown lady, happily
unrestored, and of extreme beauty.
It is of the best Dec. period. The
statue of Huskisson iu the end of
this aisle is by Carew. A memorial
window has been added above it.
The nave is rich in 10 Flaxman
monuments, none of which are obtru
sive, and one or two of much beauty.
The best are in the N. aisle. Remark
that of William Collins, the poet,
who was born in Chichester on
Christmas-day, 1719, and who died
in a house adjoining the cloisters,
1759. He was buried in St. Andrew's
Church, and this monument was
placed here by subscription. The
poet is bending over the New Tes
tament. " I have but one book,"
he said to Dr. Johnson when he
visited Collins at Islington in the
last year of his life, at which time
the attacks of frenzy had all but de
stroyed him, " but that is the best."
' The Passions ' lies at his feet. The
inscription —
*' where Collins, hapless name,
Solicits kindness with a double claim "
— is the joint production of Hayley
and Sargent. In the S. aisle remark
the monument of Agnes Cromwell, a
graceful figure borne upwards by
floating angels ; and that of Jane
Smith. Better perhaps than any of
these is the small bas-relief at
Eartham (post).
The window over the doorway
into the cloisters, representing the
e 3

82

Route 21. — Chichester ; the Cathedral.

Martyrdom of St. Stephen, is by
Wailes, and very good.
(d) The Choir was formerly sepa
rated from the nave by a stone screen
of Perp. work known as Bp. Arundel's
(1458-78) " Oratory." It had been
much mutilated, and was in a bad
state of repair ; and in order to adapt
the nave as well as the choir for
divine service, this screen was re
moved in 1859. The choir itself,
long and narrow (105 ft. long, 59 ft.
broad), is the original Norm, work,
and was perhaps the last portion of
the Norm . church completed. It has
been fitted with new stalls, a new
episcopal throne, and a new reredos,
carved by Forsyth, from the designs
of Mr. Slater — the flowers and foliage
mentioned in the Bible are the sub
jects chosen for these beautiful carv
ings. The canopies are old.
(e) The window of the S. transept
is due to Bp. Langton (1305-37),
and is of great beauty. The stained
glass was destroyed by Waller's
pikemen. Beneath it is the bishop's
tomb, much mutilated, but still show
ing traces of colour. The modern
tomb beside it — that of John Smith,
Esq., of Dale Park — is at least an
attempt in a good direction. On the
N. side, adjoining the choir, is a very
important tomb, which is generally
asserted to be that of St. Richard
de la Wych (bp. 1245-53). (See the
Life of St. Richard of Chichester, hy
Ralph Booking — like himself a Do
minican, and the bishop's constant
attendant : Acta Sanct., April iii.
The miracles recorded are of the
usual character, but enough remains
to prove the great excellence of the
bishop's life.)
The translation of St. Richard's
remains took place in 1276, in the
presence of Edward I., his queen, and
court. From this time his shrine
became one of the most honoured
in southern England, and numerous
offerings are recorded. The tomb is
one of Richardson's restorations ; the

small figures in the niches being en
tirely new. It seems later than the
date of the bishop's translation ;
and Professor Willis questioned its
right to figure as the shrine of St.
Richard, although it is difficult to
appropriate the tomb more satisfac
torily. When the tomb was opened
during some repairs, fragments of
hazel wands and branches were
found lying on the surface, such as
pilgrims, having cut by the way,
used to suspend round the shrine.
These, together with pieces of glass
and other vessels, were probably
thrown back in disorder either after
the destruction of the shrine by
Henry VTII.'s commissioners, or after
the'bishop's tomb had been violated
by Waller's troops.
In this transept, at the back of the
stalls, is a picture, in 2 compart
ments, representing Ceadwalla be
stowing the monastery of Selsey on
St. Wilfred, and the confirmation of
this grant to the cathedral, made by
Henry VIII. to Bp. Sherborne. In
this the costume and accompaniments
are all of the beginning of the 16th
cent. ; and Ceadwalla is represented
by the figure of Henry VII., who,
like his son and successor, was
Bp. Sherborne's patron. The artist
was Theodore Bernardi, an Italian
long resident in the Low Countries,
who at this time was settled in
Chichester under the bishop's patron
age. A portion of the transept is used
as an ecclesiastical court. The
ancient Consistory Court, over the
S. porch, is entered by a spiral
staircase in the nave, close without
the transept. It is late Perp., and
contains the original president's
chair, which deserves attention. A
sliding panel opens from this room
into another, sometimes called the
" Lollards' prison," no doubt a
chamber for archives or ch.-plate.
(/) The Sacristy, of E. E. date,
is entered from the transept. In it
there long stood a very ancient oak

Sussex.

Route 21. — Chichester: the Cathedral.

83

chest, 8 ft. long. There is nothing
about it to contradict the tradition
that it is of Saxon workmanship ;
and we may believe that it was
brought from Selsey at the removal
of the bishopric. This chest is now
upstairs. In the wall of the S. aisle, E. of
the transept, are fixed 2 sculptured
slabs of very unusual character, which
are also said to have been removed
from Selsey. The subjects are the
Raising of Lazarus, and the Meeting
of the Saviour with Martha and,
Mary. These slabs were discovered
in 1829 behind the stalls of the choir,
where they had been long concealed.
They are probably of early Norm.
or Romanesque origin : the costume
and arrangement seem to indicate a
foreign artist. The hollows in the
eyes were perhaps filled with crys
tals. (Comp. the sculptures in Somp
ting Church, ante, which, although
later, have a similar character.)
Between these slabs is the tomb
and effigy of Bp. Sherborne (1505-
36), restored by the society of New
College, Oxford, of whieh he was a
benefactor. (g) Bp. Seffrid's restoration of
Ralph's Norm, church terminates in
the choir. The Retro-choir, E. of the
high altar, is Trans., and probably a
later work ofthe same Bp. Seffrid II.
(1180-1204). The central columns,
with 4 detached shafts, are interest
ing, perhaps unique. The shafts are
farther detached from the piers than
in any other known example. Both
are of Purbeck marble. The mixture
of the Circular and Pointed styles
is best seen in the triforium. The
bosses of the vaulting-ribs should be
noticed, especially an extraordinary
composition of 6 human faces near
the S. aisle. The plain tomb on
the N. side is that of Bp. Story
(1468-1503), the builder of the
Market Cross. The trefoil in the
wall adjoining, within which 2
hands support a heart, is inscribed,
" Ici gist le coeur Maud de . . . . " —

the lady's surname being unde
cipherable. On the S. side is the
tomb of Bp. Day (d. 1556).
In the chapel (E. E.) at the end
of the N. aisle is a bust of Bp. Otter
by Towne. The E. window of this
chapel claims to have been the first
modern memorial window erected
in England. It was placed here
in 1842 by Dean Chandler ; but a
second window has since been sub
stituted by Wailes for the first, with
the design of which he became dis
satisfied. To the example thus set
by the dean the cathedral is indebted
for the riches of its stained glass,
now of unusual quantity. He also
commenced the careful and judi
cious restoration of the building, on
which he expended a large part of his
private fortune for many years. In
the S. aisle is a memorial window
for Bp. Shuttleworth (d. 1842).
(h) The cathedral terminates to the
E. in the Lady Chapel — the work of
Bp. Gilbert de St. Leofard (1288-
1305). Inentering, remark rt. a coped
tomb, with the words " Radulphus
Episcopus " at its W. end. This has
been thought, and perhaps rightly, to
belong to Bp. Ralph, the founder of
the original Norm, church. Oppo
site are 2 similar tombs, called those
of Bps. Seffrid and Hilary. Both
are uncertain.
The vaulting of the first 2 bays
exhibits another fragment of Bp.
Sherborne's work. The whole of the
cathedral vaultings were painted in
a similar manner, but all the rest of
the decoration has been scraped off.
Like the transept pictures, it is
Bernardi's work (comp. the roof
paintings in the church of St.
Jacques at Liege, which are of a
similar character). There are others,
also hy Bernardi, at Boxgrove (post).
The beautiful Lady Chapel, the
first 3 bays of which were erected by
an unknown benefactor (see Willis),
was prolonged hy Bp. Gilbert de
Leofardo. In the course of last
century it was deemed to be hope-

84

Route 21. — Chichester : the Cathedral.

Sussex,

lessly ruined, and it was appro
priated to the family of the then
Duke of Richmond, a vault being
sunk into the soil and the floor
raised to find additional head room
for the vault. The Cathedral
Library was then placed above. At
the death of Bp. Gilbert (1870), it
was resolved to restore the chapel in
his memory, and the Duke of Rich
mond having consented to lower the
floor, the " restoration" has been very
successful. The E. window is by
Clayton and Bell.
The Cathedral Library. — The
books were scattered when Waller
took possession of the Cathedral,
and the present collection dates from
the Restoration. At present it is
placed in a chapel, which is also used
as a lecture room for the students of
the Theological College.
Among the treasures are Cranmer's
copy of the Service-book of Her
mann, Abp. of Cologne, with his
autograph and numerous MS. notes ;
and Eustathius on Homer, with
the MS. notes of Salmasius. There
are no early MSS. of importance.
In a case against the wall are
preserved some interesting relics,
discovered in 1829 in the stone
.coffins of 2 early bishops, which then
stood under the choir arches. The
most remarkable are a silver chalice
and paten, with gold knobs and or
naments, of the 12th cent., and per
haps marking the tomb of Seffrid II.
(d. 1204). In the coffin was found
a talismanic thumb-ring — an agate
set in gold and engraved with
Gnostic devices. Similar talismans
have been found in the tombs of
early crusaders both here and on the
Continent. This ring, and 2 others
of great beauty, set with rubies and
sapphires, and found at the same
time, are preserved in the Library.
The other coffin was that of Gos-
frid (1087-88), second Bp. of Chi
chester. It contained the leaden
cross exhibited in the library. This

is inscribed with a papal absolution,
from which it appears that some com
plaint against the bishop had been
carried to the court of Rome. Of
this, however, nothing is known.
Gosfrid was consecrated hy Abp.
Lanfrane. (i) In the N. aisle, down which we
now pass, are three memorial win
dows. The large tomb under its
canopy is said to he that of Bp.
Moleynes (1446-50), counsellor of
Henry VI., " faithful ifound among
the faithless," and afterwards mur
dered at Portsmouth.
(j) The N. transept was long used as
the parish church of St. Peter, and
deserves careful attention. Note the
remains of some early frescoes, now
almost obliterated.
The remarkable decorations of the
N. transept are due to Bp. Sher
borne, and exhibit portraits of the
Bps. of Selsey and Chichester from
the commencement, by Bernardi, an
Italian. A singular family-likeness
runs through the series, which is as
authentic as that of the kings of
Scotland in the Holyrood Gallery,
on the uniform shape of whose noses
Mr. Crystal Croftangry was wont to
speculate. (k) The Cloisters, entered from the
S. aisle of the nave, are Perp., and
their wooden roof deserves notice.
Observe also the E.E. porch through
which the cathedral is entered from
them. They should be walked round
for the sake of the exterior views of
the cathedral to be obtained through
the windows. The S. transept win
dow is best seen here. The Norm.
windows of the aisles, now closed,
may also he traced here ; the walls
themselves, according to Willis, afford
evidence that the^E. end of the chan
cel was originally circular, the ordi
nary Norm. type. The position of the
cloisters, lying E. under the transept
and choir, is very unusual, and their
formaltogetherirregular. Thereisno
N. walk. It should be remembered

Sussex.

Route 21. — Chichester: the Cathedral.

85

that the cathedral was served by
secular canons, and had no monastery
attached to it. Hence the cloister
was a convenience, not an essential.
The monuments in the E. arm of
the cloister are those of Bp. Henry
King, the poet (1642-69), whose
father, John King, Bp. of London,
was James I.'s " king of preachers "
(it was during this bishop's lifetime
that the cathedral was " set to
rights " by the Puritans) ; Bp.
Grove (1691-96) ; and Bp. Carleton
(1672-83). Over a doorway in the S. cloister
is a shield with the arms of Henry
VII., together with two robed figures
kneeling before the Virgin, who is
supported by an angel holding a rose.
This marks the house of " the King's
Chaplains, who served a chantry
founded by Henry V. for his own
soul, those of his father and mother,
and of Nicholas Mortimer." It is
now a private residence, and rebuilt.
Beyond, but still in the S. wall, is
a tablet to the memory of Wm. Chil-
lingworth, " the champion of Protes
tantism," who died here (1643) after
the capture of Arundel Castle where
he had suffered much during the
siege. He was buried in this cloister,
and Cheynell, a Puritan Grand Inqui
sitor, appeared at the grave with
Chillingworth's 'Religion of Protest
ants,' which he flung into it, " to rot
with its author and see corruption ;"
accompanying his proceeding with a
speech that Torquemada might have
envied. Like most impartial writers,
Chillingworth shared the fate of the
bat in the fable, and was cordially
recognised by neither party. The
last lines of the inscription on his
monument, " Sub hoc marmore conditur
Nee sentlt damna sepulchri,"
are said to be a later addition. The
original inscription, written hy a
friend of Chillingworth's soon after
the Restoration, contained u. special

allusion to Cheynell, in which he was
styled " Theologaster." Cheynell's
son got into the cloister at night, and
defaced it with a pickaxe.
Cathedral service — Sundays, 10.30
and 3.30 ; week-days at 10 and 4.
(1) The Bishop's Palace opens from
the W. end of the cloisters. The
Chapel is late E. E. with some addi
tions. On the wall a curious fresco
head of the Virgin has been un
covered. The dining-room ceiling
is painted with coats of arms and
initials, attributed to Bernardi, the
painter of the S. transept.
At the S.E. angle of the Cloisters
is the Chantry of St. Faith, founded
early in the 14th century. It is
now a dwelling-house, distinguished
only by 2 heavy buttresses. Within,
one or two deeply-splayed E. E. win
dows are traceable.
The best exterior views of the
cathedral will be gained from West
Street. (m) The Bell Tower or Campanileon.
the N. side of the cathedral is Perp.
of the 15th cent. It is the only Eng
lish example of a detached belfry
adjoining a cathedral, though there
are many instances of it in parish
churches. Its square mass contrasts
admirably with the light and grace
ful spire of the Cathedral. It was
built probably to ease the central
tower of the weight of the bells after
the erection of the spire. The
stone of which it is built is from the
Isle of Wight quarries near Ventnor.
The summit commands a good view
of the town and Cathedral.
The girls' school in the Cathedral
ch.-yd. is well worthy of a visit.
The greater part of it is the old
Refectory of the vicars of the Cathe
dral, who form a corporation, and
there is access to it from the Vicars'
Close. Note the raised dais where

Route 21. — Chichester: Hospital; Ghiildhall. Sussex

the high table was placed, the recess
for the reader, who read some Scrip
ture or fable during meals : the
large and handsome lavatorium.
Behind the dais is another chamber,
probably used as a common-room.
The vaults below are interesting.
This formed an old guild hall which
was granted to the vicars by Ed
ward III. (?) The guildhall seems
to have stretched across South Street
(the house opposite presents some
curious architectural features), pas
sengers whether on horse or foot
going under the rooms of the guild.
The Market Cross, at the meeting
of the four streets, was completed
about 1500, and is the work of Bp.
Story. The figures which originally
filled the niches above each arch
were removed by Waller'siconoclasts.
The clock was the gift of Dame Eliza
beth Farringdon ( 1724), " an hourly
memento of her goodwill to the city."
A bronze bust of Charles I. — pro
bably by LeSoeur — occupies an oval
niche on the E. side.
After the cathedral, the most in
teresting building in Chichester is
St. Mary's Hospital, lying a short
distance E. of North Street. Little is
known of its history. It is said to
have been founded as a house of fe
male religious, by a Dean of Chiches
ter about the middle of the 12th
cent. For some unknown reason it
was suppressed as a convent about
1229 ; and its revenues, with the sanc
tion of Henry III., were appropriated
to the maintenance of 13 decayed
persons and a warden. In 1562 fresh
arrangements were made, underwhich
the warden and only 5 poor were
maintained ; it now supports 8.
An arched door and passage lead
into the hospital from the street. A
long hall or refectory under a wide-
spanned spreading roof, resting on
2 rows of wooden standards, is then
entered, in the side aisles of which
small dwellings, of two rooms each,

are constructed for the inmates.
These are only accessible from the
central aisle. At the E. end, sepa
rated by a Dec. open screen of oak,
is the chapel, with its ancient stall-
work. The architecture through
out is late E. E. or very early Dec.
The hall-roof is made to span across
the building in arches formed by
massive timbers, continued downward
on either side to within 6 ft. of the
ground, and resting on low stone
side-walls, which are pierced for win
dows. The chapel is of later date,
but still apparently Dec.
On the E. side of North Street
is the restored Church of St. Olave,
remarkable as containing some traces
of very early work. Note especially
the small door on the S. side, which
may be even Roman. Roman urns
and bricks were found in the E. wall
during the restoration ; and as the
church clearly occupies the site of
a Roman building, it may perhaps
claim to be the first Christian church
of Chichester.
The Guildhall, situated in the
Priory Park, near the end of North
Street, was the chapel of the Grey
Friars. It is E. E. (circ. 1233),
has a fine E. window of 5 lancets,
and deserves a visit, notwithstand
ing the desecration and dilapida
tion to which it has been exposed.
Very beautiful sedilia will be found
behind the magisterial benches. In
the garden, formerly the grounds
of the Friary, but now used by the
Cricket Club, is a circular mound,
the probable site of the keep of the
castle. Under St. Andrew's Church and
churchyard (East Street) a Roman
tesselated pavement extends, at a
depth of 4 or 5 ft. In this church, op
posite the pulpit, the poet Collins was
buried, as an inscription against the
S. wall records : " Wm. Collins, gent.,
d. June 15, 1759." Notice also the

Sussex. Route 21. — Chichester: Museum; City- Walls.
monument of John Cawley(d. 1621),
father of Cawley the regicide, who
died at Bruges. In the exterior wall
of this ch. is a mural slab which
hitherto has proved undecipherable.
In the house of Mr. Mason, East
Street, are some interesting relics of
Hayley, including a very fine portrait
of the poet by Romney. Here are
also some landscapes by the Smiths,
of Chichester ; artists whose local
reputation was considerable.
The Canon Gate, opening from the
close into South Street, has on it the
arms of Bp. Sherborne, and was no
doubt erected by him.
The Museum of the Philosophical
Society, in South Street, contains a
very tolerable collection of local na
tural history, and some antiquities
found in the neighbourhood ; the
most important being a quantity of
pottery discovered in 1817 in a Brito-
Roman tomb at Avisford, in the
parish- of Walberton, near Arundel.
There are 28 pieces of various forms,
together with some large vessels of a
pale sea-green glass ; the principal
of which, with a reeded handle, con
tained the calcined bones of the
deceased. A very similar deposit
was found in the Bartlow graves in
Essex. (Archseol., vol. xxv.)
Some houses in the upper part of
this street, marked by overhanging
cornices, are attributed to Wren, as is
a brick house in West Street, with
the date 1696 in the pediment. The
Pallant, a district opening from South
and East Streets, forming a miniature
Chichester with its own four streets,
is the Palatinate, or Archbishop's
peculiar. Adjoining South Street is the hall
of the Vicars' College, now used as
a school-room. It still contains the
ancient lavatory and reader's pulpit.
The Vicars Choral were placed here
as a collegiate body toward the end
of the 14th cent.

87

Of the ancient City Walls there
are considerable remains ; and very
pleasant public walks have been
formed upon them on the N. and E.
sides, overlooking the country toward
Goodwood. Semicircular towers still
remain at intervals. On other sides
the walls form terrace-boundaries to
the private gardens of the bishop,
dean, and canons, and the outside of
them is well seen from the fields
beyond West Street. The greater
part of these walls are Roman flint
masonry. Beyond the city walls, N., is the
so-called Otter Memorial, founded as
a training college for schoolmasters,
by Bp. Otter, and erected in 1849-50.
It is a good collegiate building, from
the designs of Mr. J. Butler. Not
prospering it had to be closed, but
has recently been re-opened for
other educational purposes.
Not quite 1 m. N. of the walls, on
the Goodwood road, are some re
markable lines of embankment, now
called the Broyle, probably from the
ancient character of the district, once
covered with coppice, bruillum. The
lines extend for a considerable dis
tance N. and W., but have never
been thoroughly examined. A some
what similar work, called " Redvin's
Cop," runs E. of Goodwood. It has
been suggested that the "Broyle"
marks the military station of Roman
Regnum without the walls.

The Excursions from Chichester
are replete with interest. The visitor
will do well to see (a) Selsey, (b)
Boxgrove and Goodwood, (e) Kingly
Bottom, and (d) Bignor ; but if the
last is an object of interest per se, it
may most easily be reached from
Amberley. (Rte. 24.)
(a) The tourist in search of the pic
turesque must not be sent to i~ '

88

Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Selsey. < Sussex.

although it is a corner of much
historical interest. The point of
Selsey Bill is about 9 m. from Chi
chester, whence it may most easily be
visited. The entire hundred of Man
hood, forming the peninsula, the
name of which indicates that it was
anciently covered with forest (Main-
wood), is a dead level, with a rich
soil, composed of the London clay,
and with deep marshes at intervals.
The low coast is still encroached on
by the sea, which is said to have swept
away half the peninsula since the
Saxon period. The entire district
was granted by Edilwalch, King of
the S. Saxons, to Wilfrid of York,
shipwrecked on this coast about
680-1. Edilwalch and his queen were
already Christians, but the whole of
his people still worshipped Thor and
Odin. They were, however, prepared
to receive Christianity, for Wilfrid
first baptized the chiefs and principal
leaders, and the priests who were
with him speedily brought over the
rest. No rains, says Bede. had fallen
for 3 years before Wilfrid's arrival.
A great famine had been the result ;
and the S. Saxons, chaining them
selves together in companies of 30 or
40, sought an end to their miseries
by throwing themselves into the sea.
Wilfrid taught them to fish, of which
before they knew nothing; and on
the first day of baptism the rain fell
in plenty, and the earth once more
became fruitful. Upon Selsey, " the
seal's island," he then established a
monastery, and collected there such
of his followers as, like himself, had
been exiled from Northumberland.
In this southern house Oswald, the
sainted King of Northumbria, was
especially reverenced. (See Bede,
1. iv. c. 14.)
Wilfrid was thus the first Bishop
of Selsey and of the S. Saxons, and
the see continued here until after
the Conquest, when it was removed
to Chichester. For this Saxon cathe
dral and monastery of Selsey all
search will now be in vain. The

village of Selsey, now about -J m.
from the sea, is traditionally said to
have been once in the centre of the
peninsula ; at all events, the site of
the old cathedral is now covered by
water. It is said to have lain about
a mile E. of the present church, and
so rapidly has the sea encroached
within the last 3 cents., that in Cam
den's time the foundations were un
covered at low water. The line of
anchorage along the S. E. coast is
still called " the Park," which was
existing and full of deer temp. Hen.
VIII., and for poaching in which
Bp. W. Rede (1368-85) fiercely ex
communicated certain unhappy deer-
stealers. The Church, which stood about 2
m. N.E. of the village, was pulled,
down 1865. It was dedicated to
St. Peter, like the ancient cathedral,
and was of some size. In the nave
were some grave-slabs of Sussex
marble, with crosses and other orna
ments, said to have been brought
from a former church. Against the
N. wall of the chancel was a somewhat
remarkable monument for John Lews
and Agatha Gorges his wife, died
1537. Behind the recumbent figures
were the lady's patron saints, St.
George and St. Agatha. Similar ar
rangements exist at West Wittering
and at West Hampnett, and seem to
indicate the same designer ; perhaps
one of the Bernardi family, settled
in Chichester about this time. This
monument, together with a curious
ancient font, is preserved in the church
erected 1867, near the village, by St.
Aubyn. In the ch.-yard is an epitaph
by Hayley on the tombstone of two
young men drowned off the coast.
Close adjoining are the mound and
trench of an ancient fortification.
The whole of the Selsey peninsula,
but especially the coasts and the
Pagham Creek, is the resort of in
numerable wild-fowl, many of rare
species; and, in severe winters, flocks
of wild swans are always to be heard

Sussex.

Route 21. — Pagham — Bracklesliam Bay.

89

and seen here. The patches of brush
wood, and rough copses of stunted
oak, which dot its line of coast, also
" afford tempting places 'of rest to
our vernal migratory birds on their
first arrival from the Continent."
" Here, in the dead long summer
days, when not a breath of air has
been stirring, have I frequently re
mained for hours stretched on the
hot shingle, and gazed at the osprey
as he soared aloft, or watched the
little islands of mud at the turn of
the tide, as each gradually rose from
the receding waters, and was succes
sively taken possession of by flocks
of sandpipers and- ring-dotterels,
after various circumvolutions on the
part of each detachment, now simul
taneously presenting their snowy
breasts to the sunshine, now sud
denly turning their dusky backs, so
that the dazzled eye lost sight of
them from the contrast; while the
prolonged cry of the titterel, and the
melancholy note of the peewit from
the distant .swamp, mingled with the
scream of the tern and the taunting
laugh of the gull." — A. E. Knox.
The sands are very firm and dry,
and it is possible to drive along them
for about 10 miles. Off the coast
there is an extensive fishery, and a
"Selsey cockle "is one of Fuller's
" four good things " of Sussex. (See
Introduction.) In Pagham Harbour, between Pag
ham and Selsey Church, and but
3 m. W. from Bognor, is a place
called by the fishermen the Hushing
Well. Over a space of about 130 ft.
long by 30 broad, the water is
" apparently in a state of ebulli
tion, from the rushing of immense
volumes of air to the surface. The
noise of the bursting bubbles re
sembles the simmering of a. huge
caldron, and may sometimes be
heard at Selsey Church, £ m. dis
tant." The air rushes through a bed
of shingle, left dry at low tide, and
the only explanation hitherto offered
is, that there is some large cavity

beneath, from which the air is. ex
pelled as the water rushes in. (The
Hushing Well and Selsey Chm-ch
may be visited from Bognor, taking
especial note ofthe state of the tides. )
Pagham harbour itself was formed
by an irruption of the sea at the be
ginning ofthe 14th cent., when 2700
acres were destroyed. The Church of
Pagham is good E. E., and worth
notice, although it has been much
injured by "repairers." It is dedi
cated to Thomas a Becket, and was
probably built, soon after his cano
nization, by an archbishop of Can
terbury, to which see the manor
belonged till the Reformation. A
slab in the chancel, with Lombardic
characters, should be looked for.
Some indistinct remains of the archie-
piscopal palace are visible in a field
S.E. of Hae church.
At Bracklesliam Bay, 3 m. W. of
Selsey Bill, masses of clay occur on
the sands, containing fossil shells of
great rarity. " The part of the bay
most interesting to the geologist is
that immediately in the neighbour
hood of Bracklesham barn, especially
at about a furlong to the E. of that
spot, where there is a small break
or chine in the low clay cliff. Here
there is a stratum of light green
marly sand, abounding in Veneri-
cardia planicosta and other shells."
— Bowerbank. Vertebrae and other
bones of turtles, serpents, and croco
diles, have also been discovered
here. At Cakeham, in West Witter
ing, 2 m. beyond, is a lofty hexagonal
tower of brick, with labelled win
dows, built by Bp. Sherborne of
Chichester, in the early part of the
l'6th cent., for the sake of the sea
view, which is here very fine and
unimpeded. Cakeham Manor was an
occasional residence of the Bps. of
Chichester, but the tower is now
the only relic of their palace here.
Here Rich, de la Wych, the sainted
bishop, is said to have miraculously
fed, during a great dearth, 3000 per-

90 Rte. 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — W. Hampnett. Sussex.
Pieta. The dove (as on the tomb of
the Black Prince at Canterbury) is
wanting. Beneath is the inscription,
"Sanctus Spiritus Unus Deus," the
2 figures above being apparently in
tended to form part of the sentence.
(See Selsey, ante.) Beyond the ch.,
by the roadside, is West Hampnett
Place, now the union poorhouse for
this and the adjoining parishes. The
front is modem, the rest of the
house Elizabethan. The ceiling of
the great staircase is painted in the
style of Kneller. The house is said
to have been built by Rd. Sackville,
uncle of Thomas, first Lord Buck-
hurst. The Church of

sons with beans only sufficient for
one-third the number.
In West Wittering Church is a ca
nopied altar-tomb, with bas-reliefs at
the ends, representing the Annuncia
tion and the Resurrection It is that
of William Ernley, died 1545, and
resembles the Lews monument at
Selsey. Kynor, in the parish of Sidlesham,
extending W. to the sea, is, in all
probability, the " Cymenes-ora," at
which Ella and liis three sons,
Cymen, Wlencing, and Cissa, landed
in 477, whence they established
themselves on the coast, and founded
the settlement of the S. Saxons.
Sidlesham Church is mainly E. E.
In it is a good " Flanders chest " of
Dec. character. The little village,
with its large tide-mill, sleeping in
the clear summer air at the head of
the estuary, looks like some sharply
touched landscape by Asselyn or
Van Goyen.

(6) Although the traveller must not
be sent S. of Chichester in search of
the picturesque, he may very safely
turn northward. As soon as the
ground begins to rise toward the
chalk range, the viewsbecome of great
interest, fringed from the higher land
with a background of sea. A first
excursion may be to Goodwood and
the race-course above it ; or a longer
round may be made by Boxgrove,
visiting the church there, proceeding
by Halnaker to Goodwood, thence to
St. Roche's Hill and the race-course,
and back to Chichester by the Mid-
hurst road. On this route
West Hampnett, IJ m., has anE.E.
church, with a monument to Richard
Sackville and his wife hi the chancel.
Between the 2 kneeling figures is a
representation of the Holy Trinity, in
which the arrangement is that of a

*Boxgrove, 2 m., should on no ac
count be left unvisited since it is one
of the most important specimens of
E. E. in the kingdom. Boxgrove
Priory was founded temp. Hen. I. by
Robert de Haia, who then possessed
the lordship. He made it a cell for
3 monks, attached to the Benedic
tine abbey of Lessay in Normandy
(diocese of Coutances). The number
was increased to 15 by the St. Johns,
heirs of Robert de Haia ; and when
the alien priories were suppressed,
Boxgrove was made " denizen, or in-
digena," and retained its rich endow
ments. At the Dissolution, Thomas
West, Lord Delawarr, then lord of
Boxgrove and Halnaker, pleaded
earnestly for it to Cromwell. " I
have made therein a powr chapell
to be buried yn," he writes ; but in
spite of this, and although commis
sioner Layton found its condition
satisfactory — "the prior is a gi-et
husbonde and kepith gret hospital-
itie; ejus monachi omnes sunt ejus
dem farinse " — the Boxgrove Bene
dictines were not spared.
The * Church, dedicated to St. Mary
and St. Blaize, was divided, accord
ing to the practice of the Benedic
tines : the nave, or portion W. of the
tower, now in ruins, had an altar
under the tower, and served as the

Sussex.

Route 21. — Boxgrove.

91

parish church. The existing church
(restored in 1865 by Sir G. G. Scott)
consists of the chancel, aisles, tran
septs, and central tower ; of nearly
all which, with the exception of the
tower, which is Norm., the character
is rich E. E. This belonged to the
monks, and was walled off from the
parish church at the W. end, now
destroyed. The composition of the
choir is of great beauty. "It is
divided into 4 square compartments,
each having a cross vault with ribs,
the diagonal being enriched with the
tooth ornament." The E. end re
sembles the presbytery of Chichester
cathedral. Remark the pillared
brackets from which the vaulting-
shafts spring ; and the graceful man
ner in which they are made to fill
the spaces between the circular pier
arches. The clerestory above the pier
arches is very beautiful — its unequal
arches supported by slender columns
of Purbeck. The E. window is a large
triple lancet, with long filleted shafts
of Purbeck marblebetween the lights.
The vaulting throughout is covered
with paintings of the same character
as those of Bp. Sherborne in Chiches
ter cathedral ; and no doubt by the
same artist. A peculiar blue green is
used for the foliage and traceries.
Underthe second bay, on the S. side
of the chancel, is the tomb of Lord
Delawarr (died 1532); a most striking
specimen of Renaissance. The cha
racter of the upright ornamented
shafts, covered with rude low reliefs,
is fery remarkable. On one, a lady
standing in a wattled enclosure,
catches in her apron the figs which
a climbing figure in the tree above
shakes down to her. Within the tomb,
remark the central pendant boss, and
the curious miniature vault with
elaborate groyning. Lord Delawarr's
" powr chapell " now serves as a
"ducal" seat for Goodwood, at the
expense of the noble owner of which
the ch. has been restored.
The aisles, like the chancel, are
E. E. In the S. transept is placed

the monument of Philippa, Countess
of Arundel, afterwards wife of
Thomas Lord Poynings (circ. 1428).
In the wall of the N. aisle are 3
arched tombs without inscriptions.
.2 daughters of Adeliza of Louvain,
Queen of Henry I., and afterwards
wife of William de Albini, Earl of
Arundel, were buried here, and
these memorials possibly belong to
them. In the N. transept is a bad
monument for Sir William Morley
of Halnaker, and opposite one for
his heiress, the Countess of Derby,
with a bas-relief commemorating her
charity. Three other arched tombs
are in the S. aisle, where the E. E.
windows have been less tampered
with. The arches from the transepts
into the aisles are early Norm. The
remains of floor-tiling should be no
ticed throughout. The upper storeys
of the tower are open, as a lantern.
06s. in the ch.-yard the ruins of the
nave. Outside the ch. the wall is
visible, across the entrance to the
nave, which divided the parish ch.
from that of the priory (comp. the
arrangements at Arundel, and at
Chribtchurch, Hants). In the centre
is a niche (tabernacle?) above the
ancient altar-site. On the N. side
were the cloisters and chapter
house ; the entrance to the last
dilapidated, but still showing some
fine and curious low Norman
arches. Near the W. end of the
church is the monastic pigeon-house,
of brick, with buttresses. Through
the farm-gate beyond, N., are the
remains of the Prior's Lodging,
wrongly styled the refectory. They are
early Dec, the lower storey vaulted,
with a range of pillars running longi
tudinally. The corbel heads, from
which the vault arches sprang, re
main. Above were larger apart-
meuts, and a third range in the
gable. Many fragments of the priory
are traceable in the farm walls and
buildings. The ruins of Halnaker, J m. N.,need

92 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Goodwood. Sussex.

not long delay the tourist. The I
house was a good specimen of Henry I
VIII. architecture, with a gateway
flanked by small octangular turrets
leading into a square court. It is
now httle more than a mass of ruined
walls, with an occasional stone win
dow-frame. The builder was Sir
Thomas West, Lord Delawarr, whose
" powr chapell " we have already con
templated. Halnaker is now attached
to Goodwood, by whose owners it
was dismantled. In the park, well
filled with deer, is an avenue of
Spanish chestnuts which should not
be left unnoticed.
The park of * Goodwood (Duke of
Richmond), 1 m.W., may he visited at
all times. The house is shown with
much liberality at all times, Sundays
and Goodwood race week excepted.
Goodwood possibly derives its name
from its ancient Saxon possessor
Godwinus, who was fortunate enough
to retain his lands at the period of
the Conquest. It was purchased
from the Compton family by the first
Duke of Richmond about 1720. The
house, of no especial beauty, is built
on four sides of a hexagon, with
towers at the angles. The original
design was by Sir William Chambers ;
the later additions are Wyatt's. The
collection of pictures here is not one
of great importance, although of some
extent. It is richest in portraits.
As the hanging of the pictures is apt
to be altered from time to time, the
following appropriation of them to
particular rooms may not be found
quite correct. Notice in the liall
those of Charles I. in his robes of
state, Henrietta Maria in white satin,
and their 5 children, all by Vandyck :
a half-length of Charles II., Sir Peter
Lely : Louise de Querouaille, Duchess
of Portsmouth, mistress of Charles II.
(generally called "Madam Carwell "),
Kneller : Charles, 1st Duke of Rich
mond (son of Charles II. and Louise
de Quereuaille), and his Duchess,
Anne, both hy Kneller: and Sir

William Waller, the General of the
Parliamentarians who took Arundel
Castle and the city of Chichester, Sir
P. Lely. A pair of curfews, of copper,
riveted together (15th cent), are also
shown in the hall. In a cabinet in
the drawing-room are preserved "a
worked shirt of Charles I., and
various silver articles used during
the infancy of Charles II." — Mason's
Goodwood. Much of the china in
this room was presented by Louis
XV. to the 3rd Duke of Richmond.
The dining-room contains busts of
the Marquis of Rockingham and Pitt
by Nollekens, and of the Duke of
Wellington by Turnerelli. In the
music-room are portraits of Charles,
2nd Duke of Richmond ; Duke of
Monmouth, Kneller; Killegrew the
wit, Carew the poet, and Montrose,
all 3 by Vandyck; and some by
Lely. Of the other pictures the
most striking is a, large one by Sal
vator Rosa, representing a Seaport
with ruins. In the waiting-room be
yond are the third Duchess of Rich
mond, the gem of the Collection,
Lady Charles Spencer, and 2 por
traits of the third Duke of Rich
mond, all by Sir J. Reynolds; and
William Pitt, by Gainsborough. A
full-length of the 5th Duchess of
Richmond, in the staircase-haU, was
thought by Lawrence "one of the
best he had painted." Here are also
Charles II., by Lely; Miss Stewart,
" La belle Stewart," afterwards
Duchess of Richmond, as Bellona,
also by Lely, and a very fine picture
(this lady is said to have afforded the
type for the figure of Britannia on the
coins of the realm) ; and in the gal
lery above, Nell Gwynne, theDuchess
of Portsmouth, and Mrs. Middleton,
all showing Lely's one-pin-fastened
dresses. The finest Vandyck in the
collectionis placed here — Charles I.,
Henrietta, and the Princes Charles
and James. This picture was in
the Orleans Gallery ; and was pur
chased hy the 3rd Duke for 1100Z.
Vandyke painted 3 copies : one in

Sussex.

Route 21. — Goodwood House and Parle.

93

the possession of the Crown ; one be
longing to the Duke of Devonshire ;
and this at Goodwood. In the small
library are the third Duke of Rich
mond, by Romney, and the fourth
Duke (who died in Canada), by
Jackson. In the billiard-room are
Romney's portrait of Lord Anson ;
and some landscapes by George
Smith (d. 1775) and John, his younger
brother (d. 1764), natives of Chiches
ter, and once of considerable reputa
tion. Many of their best pictures
have been engrayed by Woollet. The
most remarkable picture here, how
ever, is the so-called " Cenotaph of
Lord Darnley ;" brought from the
Chateau d'Aubigny, where it was
discovered in a dilapidated state.
There is a duplicate in the possession
of the Earl of Pomfret. In the right-
hand corner is the inscription, " Tra-
gica et lamentabilis internecio sere-
nissimi Henrici Scotorum Regis."
In the centre the figure of Darnley
is seen exposed hefore the altar of
a chapel, and near it are his son,
King James ; the Earl and Countess
of Lennox, his father and mother ;
and his younger brother ; all kneel
ing. The story of Darnley's murder
is told in small compositions arranged
in different parts of the picture. First
appears the actual murder, where 2
armed figures are drawing the body
from the bed ; next, the body of Darn
ley is shown iying under a tree in the
orchard ; and last is the battle array
of Carberry Hill, where Queen Mary
parted from Bothwell. Below again
is a view of the city of Edinburgh,
with Sahsbury Crags and Arthur's
Seat. From 2 of the inscriptions it
appears that this picture was com
menced in October, 1567, when King
James was 16 months old, and finished
in the January following. It was
thus begun within 7 months after the
murder. For whom, and by whom,
this curious picture was designed, is
not known, though it has been as
cribed to Levinus Venetianus or Vo-
gelarius. It has been engraved by

Vertue. On the stone staircase are
Hogarth's picture of "The Lady's
Last Stake," a duplicate of that
painted for Lord Charlemont ; many
landscapes by the Smiths; some
portraits by Romney and Hudson;
and " Antiochus and Stratonice " by
Barry. In the Long Hall are two
curious views of London from the
terrace and gardens of Richmond
House, by Canaletti. The Tapestry
Drawing-room is hung with fine
old Gobelins, the designs from ' Don
Quixote.' The chimney-piece is by
Bacon. Among family rehcs pre
served here are the signet seal of
Charles IL and the Duchess of
Portsmouth (in one of his letters
the King styles her " Fubsey ") ; a,
miniature of -Charles II., by Cooper ;
and relics of the Duke of Wellington
from Waterloo.

Goodwood Park is more attractive
than the house. The views from the
higher grounds are very grand ; and
the trees beat the pictures. Of these
the Lebanon cedars are the finest.
1000 were planted by the third duke
in 1761 ; only about 150 now remain,
but many are of unusual size. The
largest, in a paddock near the dog-
kennels, measures 25 ft. in circuni-
ference. The greater number are
scattered in clumps through the
park, and on the road to Molecomb,
a villa within the domain. Remark
also two very large cork-trees opposite
the principal entrance ; an enormous
beech opposite the stables ; a spruce
fir near the kitchen gardens ; and
some deciduous cypresses in the
High Wood, where is also a fine
chestnut avenue. In the High Wood
grounds, not far from the house, is a
temple containing the famous " Nep
tune and Minerva" slab, found at
Chichester in 1731, in digging the
foundations for the Council Chamber ;
when the remains of stone walls
were also discovered, no doubt part
of the temple to which the inscrip-

94 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Goodwood. Sussex.

tion refers. The stone is of grey
Purbeck (not Sussex) marble. The
inscription, as restored, with almost
certainty, runs thus; the letters in
Italics mark the conjectural restora
tions : —
" Septum et Minervse templum
pro salute d07ftws divinae
ex auctoritate Tib. Claud.
Cogidnbni r. leg. aug. in Brit.
Collegium fabror. et qui in eo
a sacris sunt d. s. d. donante aream
Pudente Pudentini fil."
Cogidubnus, to whom, as a reward
for his fidelity to the Romans, many
cities were given after the successes
of Plautius and Scapula, here takes
the name of his patron, the Emperor
Claudius, according to Roman custom.
The " Collegium fabrorum" may have
been the company of the carpenters
or shipbuilders of the port; Nep
tune and Minerva were thus their
natural patrons, the last as the god
dess of Arts. Comp. Virg. —
" Instar montis equura divina Palladis arte."
The deep interest which belongs to
the Pudentinus part of the inscription
has already been noticed. (Chiches
ter, ante.)
Above the Pheasantry (now neg
lected) and nearly on the hill-top, is
Cairney Seat, which has " received its
name from that of a. faithful old
servant of the family." The view
from the building here, which is open
for the use of the public, extends far
along the coasts of Sussex and Hamp
shire, and is very striking.
The Race-course, with its yet more
magnificent prospect, is about a mile
from the house. Races were esta
blished here in 1802, and the course
is now one of the best in the king
dom. It is a horse-shoe, like Ep»om,
so that the spectator may command
a view of all the running; but so
bold a ravine divides its extremities,
that no cross-country cavalcade can
be present here, as there, at both

I the starting and the winning-posts.
j " The celebrity which Goodwood
races have now obtained is en
tirely owing to the exertions of the
late duke." They have, perhaps,
somewhat declined of late years ; but
the meeting, which takes place in
July, is still more " aristocratic "
than either Ascot or Epsom. From
the course it is possible to proceed,
either on foot or on horseback, for
almost any distance along the heights
of the chalk hills. The paths and
wood walks are all open, and all
beautiful. The beech is here the
principal tree, smooth stemmed, and
with little undergrowth. (For the
eastern line, towards Bignor, see^osi,
d.) On Rook's or St. Roche's Hill,
W. (height, 702 ft.), is an ancient
camp called the Trundle, circular,
enclosing about 5 acres, with a double
vallum and deep fosse. In the centre
are the traces of a small building,
14 ft. by 11, of flints cemented
with a very hard mortar. Its age
and purpose are entirely matters of
conjecture. From Rook's Hill the
tourist may gain the Midhurst road,
and so return to Chichester.

(c.) A second excursion northward
may be to Kingly Bottom and Bow
Hill. This may be prolonged to
Up Park at pleasure. The road
has no special interest until Kingly
Bottom itself is reached, 4 m. N.W.
from Chichester. This is a long nar
row vale, lying under Bow Hill, an
outlying spur of the chalk range.
It is most picturesquely wooded
throughout ; but its principal feature
is a cluster of yew-trees of very
great age and size, at the foot of
the chalk escarpment. The valley is
said to derive its name from a great
fight between the men of Chichester
and a body of invading Danes, about
the year 900. Many of the leaders
or " kings " of these last were killed ;

Sussex.

Route 21. — Radon — Bignor.

95

and the 4 large barrows on the side
of the downs, N. of the valley, are
said to cover their remains. Two
of them were opened during the
Archaeological Association's visit to
Chichester in 1853, but no discoveries
were made that could even mark
their age. At the foot of Stoke Down,
on the E. side of Kingly Bottom, are
a number of circular excavations, on
an average about 10 ft. in diameter,
and 4 ft. deep. They have been
thought, perhaps without much rea
son, to mark the site of an ancient
British village. Similar hollows exist
on the Dorsetshire downs ; and there
is a large group at Worlebury, on the
coast of Somersetshire.
In Racton Church, W. of the valley,
is a monument to one of the Gunter
family, somewhat resembling those
at W. Wittering and Selsey. Si John
the Baptist here stands in the centre,
whilst male and female figures kneel
on either side. Racton Tower, on the
low ground under Bow Hill, is used
as a beacon by ships in the in
tricate navigation of Thorney Isle
or Selsey Bill. It was erected by
Lord Halifax, the owner of Stanstead
Park, in the domains of which it
stands. Stanstead Park (G. Wilder,
Esq.), further W., is famous for its
so-cailed "forest" of 1666 acres.
The house was built about 1687 by
the 1st Earl of Scarborough; but has
been a good deal altered. In it are
some good Gibbons carving; and a
suit of tapestry, representing the
battle of Wynendaal, brought from
Flanders by Lord Scarborough. Six
suits of tapestiy were made at Arras
for Marlborough and 5 of his generals.
The "forest" lies W. of the house ;
and is divided by 3 great avenues, of
which the central one is 2 miles
long. The tourist may either proceed
through Stanstead Forest by in
different roads to Compton, and so to
Up Park, or he may return through
Kingly Bottom, and proceed to it
by N. Marden. The whole of this

country is interesting and picturesque.
Up Park, about 3 m. N. of Stanstead,
is perhaps its finest point. The park
is large, well wooded, and commands
very wide land and sea views. The
beech is the principal tree ; there
are some clumps of very great size,
shadowing the deep ferny hollows.
The park may be visited ; but the
house is not generally shown to
strangers. It was built at the end
of the 17th cent, and is full of in
teresting collections, pictures, carv
ings, &c. — the most important being
a collection of Sevres china, bought
about half a century ago for 20,000/.,
and which must now be worth five
times that sum. From Up Park it
is possible to proceed along the line
of the downs to Cocking and so
back to Chichester. Nothing can be
more picturesque than the scenery ;
but much cannot be said for the
roads, and the distance is at least
10 m. On the top of the downs at
Treyford are 5 very high barrows,
placed in a line, and called the
"Devil's Jumps."

(d) By far the most interesting
excursion to be made from Chiches
ter is that across the chalk range
to the Roman remains at Bignor.
Bignor may be visited from Brighton
or Amberley (Ete. 24) by help of
the rail ; or a tour may be taken from
Arundel by Parham and Bignor to
Petworth, thus including the 4 most
interesting points in this part of
Sussex ; but the chalk hills, here
most picturesque and. remarkable,
can nowhere be seen so well as in
crossing them from Chichester to
Bignor — about 12 m. The route
should be by Up-Waltham, across
Sutton Hill, and so down upon Bignor ;
returning to Chichester over Bignor
Hill and by the line of the "Stane
Street." This will be a long summer-
day's work. The distance, owing to
the steep hills and indifferent roads,
cannot fairly be estimated in miles.

96

Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Eartham. Sussex.

Eartham (Sir J. P. Milbank-
Huskisson, Bi), 6 m. from Chi
chester, about \ m. E. from the main
road may be visited on the way.
Hayley's residence here, inherited
from his father, from whence the
' Triumphs of Temper ' were sent
forth, was long a gathering place
for the literary world of his time.
Cowper the poet spent 6 or 7 weeks
here with Hayley, 1792. It was pur
chased from the poet by the Right
Hon. Wm. Huskisson, the statesman,
and the first victim of English rail
ways. (For the best notice of Hayley,
by Southey, see Quart. Rev., vol.
xxxi.). The house has been greatly
altered. The Church has a remark
able Norm, chancel arch, of the same
type which occurs at Amberley and
Steyning. The rest is E.E. In the
chancel is a very beautiful monu
ment, erected by Flaxman to a son
of Hayley. An angel, holding in
the right hand a palm-branch, raises,
with the left, a coronal of flowers
above his head. It is better than any
of the Flaxman sculptures in the
cathedral. The verses below, re
cording his son's
" Gentle manners, his exalted mind,
Modestly firm, and delicately kind,"
are by the poet. In the N. aisle is
a tablet to Mr. Huskisson, who is
buried in the Liverpool cemetery.
Eartham lies among the low hills
at the foot of the downs, and the
scenery increases in interest from
this point. Shortly before reaching
Up- Waltham, 9 m. from Chichester, a
picturesque valley opens W. towards
Singleton and East Dean. The hills
are dotted with scattered wood among
beds of fern ; and the chalk begins to
display itself more clearly. The little
ch. of Up-Waltham is E. E., with a
circular apse. There is no E. win
dow ; two small lancets are arranged
on either side.
At Littleton farm, a short distance
beyond, the road turns up over Sut
ton Hill. The view N., that sud

denly breaks upon the spectator as
he gains the top of the hill, will not
readily be forgotten. The whole
sweep of the Weald is commanded,
with hamlets nestled among their
trees aX the foot of the downs,
circling round E., with ¦Chanctonbury
Ring as a termination. W. is Dune-
ton Beacon, a still higher point
than -Sutton Hill. A steep, rough
road descends to the White Horse at
Sutton, where the tourist had better
leave his carriage, and proceed on
foot to Bignor, 1 m., at which place
there is no inn. The walk is through
deep lanes with broken banks, over
hung with spreading oaks and
sheaves of traveller's joy — the last a
marked feature N. of the hills. At
Bignor Church remark the long lan
cets of the chancel. In the church
yard are two very large yews. The
mistress of the villa, whose assistance
must be invoked in order to see the
pavements, which are now preserved
under lock and key, lives at an ad
joining farm. At the angle turning
into the fields, remark a very pic
turesque timbered house, with a pro
jecting upper storey. Nothing can
be more beautiful than the situa
tion of the villa itself. The colon
nades of its principal rooms opened
toward the S.W., to receive the full
warmth of such sun as was to be
had "in ultima Britannia;" and
looked into the bosom of the green
hills, with their " holts" -of beech and
ash trees, their scattered junipers
and hawthorns. The Stane Street
— the Roman road from Regnum
(Chichester) to Londinium — de
scends the hill obliquely in full
view. Whoever he was, proprsetor
or legate, who fixed his lares here,
he was certainly not without an eye
for natural beauty ; although he may
have had another upon the well-
stored forests, the territories of Sil-
vanus and the Dii agrestes, which
spread round him in all directions.
Bignor is the " Ad Decimum," the

Sussex.

Route 21. — Bignor.

97

station at the 10th milestone from
.Reqnum (Chichester), of the Itine
raries ; a halting-place which was pro
bably established at this point of the
Roman road on account of the vicinity
of the great villa ; just as a modern
railway " lord " procures a station in
the neighbourhood of his own resi
dence. The site of Ad Decimum
was doubtful until 1811, when the
pavements were first discovered by
the farmer who held the land, who
struck up a fragment in ploughing.
There are marks of the plough
share on many of the tiles. His
family still farm the land, the pre
sent owner being Mr. R. Tupper.
The fields had always been known
by the names of the "Berry" and
the "Town" field; in the last of
which there was a tradition that the
old " town " of Bignor had once stood.
The earth lay from one to two feet
thick above the pavements. The
villa was of unusual dimensions.
" The buildings have been traced
to an extent of about 600 feet in
length by nearly 350 ft. in breadth.
The principal household buildings
formed about one half that length.
They stood round an inner court,
which was nearly a rectangular
parallelogram. ' ' — Wright. The chief
apartments were on the N.E. side of
this court, and opened into a crypto-
porticus, or ambulatory, surrounding
the court, at the S.W corner of
which were baths and sudatories.
There are three principal pavements.
The largest, first discovered, was
probably that of the triclinium or
great banqueting hall ; an apartment
in 2 divisions, the smaller of which
hes backward from the court. "It
is not improbable that there was a
curtain thrown across, by which the
two rooms might at will be separated
or thrown into one." — Wright. Its
principal decorations are two cir
cular compartments, one 7 ft. 6 in.
in diameter, the other 16 ft. The
smaller exhibits Ganymede and the
eagle : the larger is divided into six
[Sussex.]

compartments, of which those remain
ing contain figures of dancingnymphs.
This pavement so completely resem
bles one at Avenches in Switzerland,
executed about the reign of Titus, that
this Sussex villa has been assigned
to the same period. In the centre
of the larger compartment is a stone
cistern, 4 ft. in diameter and 1 ft. 8 in-
deep, having a round hole at tbe
bottom, connected with a leaden pipe
for carrying off the water. This is
also found at Avenches, and not else
where. It may possibly have served
as a fountain. The uneven surface of
the pavement is caused by the flues
of the hypocaust, by which the room
was heated, giving way beneath it.
A second pavement, W. of this prin
cipal room, displays a remarkable
head, covered with drapery, and with
a leafless branch at the side, which
has been called Winter, and thought
to have been one of the four seasons
figured at the corners of the pave
ment. It has also been suggested
(but most improbably) that the head
is that of a British Druid, with his
mystic branch of misletoe. The re
maining ornaments of this room de
serve attention. The third pave
ment, a very important one, exhibits
combats of Cupids, habited as gladi
ators ; Retiarii, with net, trident,
and short sword ; Seautores, with
shield, greave for the left leg, and
crested helmet ; and Rudiarii, vete
rans, holding a rod, and regulating
the combats. Four different scenes
are represented. In one, the gladia
tors are preparing for the struggle ;
in another they are engaged in it;
in a third the retiarius is wounded,
and the rudiarius is coming to his
assistance ; and in the last he has
fallen, and is disarmed. The N. end
of the pavement has a semicircular
division, within which is a female
head ornamented with a chaplet of
flowers, and surrounded by a nimbus
of a light blue colour. It would
seem that Venus and Juno brought
their ancient rivalry into Britain,

98

Route 21. — Bng nam io rortsmoutn — tsignor. (Sussex.

since the appropriation of this head
is claimed by both. The W. part
of this room was ornamented by
Doric columns, of which fragments
remain. The pavement of a smaller
room, 20 ft. by 9 ft. 9 in., is entire,
and shows some graceful patterns.
Another contains a curious, example
ofthe open fireplace — the "caminus"
or " focus" — upon which logs from the
Sussex forest were piled up for warm
ing the apartment instead of the
heated air from the hypocaust. The
remains of the bath, and of an exten
sive hypocaust for warming the su-
'datory, lie at the S.W. corner of the
court. There are portions of smaller
mosaics, and of numerous other rooms.
The ambulatory or "crypto-porticus,"
which surrounded the whole court,
was 10 ft. wide, with a beautiful
tesselated pavement. The outer
court was much larger than the
inner, which contained the household
buildings, and " seems to have been
surrounded by bare walls, although
traces of buildings were found in
various parts of its interior. The
walls of this outer court seem to have
continued so as to surround the whole
edifice, which perhaps, externally,
presented merely the appearance of
a great, irregular, square-walled en
closure." — Wright. Although the
great size of the villa evidently marks
it as having been that of one of the
chief functionaries of the Regnian
province, the mosaics, in point of
execution, cannot be compared to
those of Corinium (Cirencester), or
of Woodohester in Gloucestershire.
The work is much rougher, and the
materials used are not so rich.
There are no tesserse of coloured
glass as at Corinium. At Bignor
Park is preserved a gold ring found
near the villa ; one of the finest ex
amples of Roman art in precious
metals which has been discovered in
Britain. The work is chased and
set with an intaglio, representing the
figure of a warrior holding a buckler
before him. A few fragments of pot

tery, &c, are kept at the villa, in huts
which have been built over the
pavements in order to preserve them.
Bignor Park (J. Heywood Hawkins,
Esq.) was long an appendage to the
castle of Arundel, and used for fat
tening deer driven in from the forest.
The house commands grand views of
the Weald and South Downs. It was
long the property of Nicholas Turner,
Esq., whose daughters, Charlotte
Smith of ' The Old Manor House, '
and Mrs. Dorset, authoress of the
still more widely known ' Peacock at
Home,' both resided here for many
years. Many of Charlotte Smith's
sonnets relate to this neighbourhood
and the banks of the Arun : —
"Farewell, Aruna! on whose varied shore
My early vows were paid at Nature's shrine !
 sighing 1 resign
Thy solitary beauties, and' no more
Or on thy rocks or in, thy woods recline,
Or on the heath, by moonlight lingering, pore
On air-drawn phantoms . . . ."
The house contains some important
collections, artistic and archaeolo
gical, but is not usually shown.
Among them are " adnhrable im
pressions of Albert Durer's etch
ings, and a marvellously beautiful
bronze relief of Paris and Helena." —
Waagen. Parham (see Rte. 24) may be visited
from Bignor if the tourist remains
iu the neighbourhood for more than
a single day. The country at the
back of the South Downs is no
where more interesting or attractive
than here, but sleeping accommo
dation is somewhat difficult to pro
cure. There is a White Horse, the
badge of the Fitzalans, and a sign
common to the district, at Sutton,
and another at Bury, both small inns,
which may do well enough if there
are no sportsmen or harvest feasts
in the way. At Pulborough and at
Storrington, 5 to 6 m. off, are very
tolerable inns ; but at some distauoe
from the best scenery.

Sussex.

Route 21, — Slindon Park — Bosham.

99

"Fuci, particularly a branched
species, Fucoides Targionii, occur
abundantly in the fire-stone, or upper
greensand at the foot of the chalk
downs, near Bignor." — Mantell.
The return to Chichester should
be made over Bignor Hill. The road
can scarcely be called one at all ;
and although it is passable for
wheels, a stout pony will do the
work far better. The hill-sides are
here much more wooded than in
other parts of the South Downs, and
are picturesque in proportion. The
green coombes, and the patches, de
licious to the eye and the imagina
tion, of "holt" and"shaw," as the
little woods are locally named, to
gether with the incessant play of light
and shade along them, will recall
Copley Fielding at every step. (For
a general notice of the South Downs
see Introduction.)
Bury Hill, the next E. of Bignor,
has a large barrow or tumulus on the
top. There is also a group of bar
rows on the S. ridge of Bignor Hill ;
from the top of which a magnificent
view opens seaward, with the Isle of
Wight W., and beyond the Arundel
woods, E., the hill-crests above
Steyning and Brighton. There is
here a direction post from which the
Roman road, the " Stane Street,"
descends in a straight line upon
Chichester. This line may he taken,
or another towards Slindon (marked
on the post). This last is a green
road, with very picturesque trees scat
tered along its course. Dale Park
(J. C. Fletcher, Esq.) stands on the
very edge of the Downs.
Slindon Park (C. S. Leslie, Esq.)
is an Elizabethan house containing a
long upper gallery. It is not generally
shown. An older house here is said
to have been built by an early Arch
bishop of Canterbury ; and Stephen
Langton, the famous Archbishop of
Magna Charta (it is also asserted),
died here. Near this a very hand

some R. C. chapel has been built
from the designs of C. A. Buckler, of
Oxford (1865) ; it contains a memo
rial window for the late Countess of
Newburgh. Slindon beeches, which are scattered
up and down a valley at the back of
Slindon Park, deserve the notice of
the artist.
The parish ch., an old foundation,
was restored in i867.
From Slindon the tourist may
return to Chichester (7 m.) by the
West Hampnett road.
Chichester to Portsmouth.
31J m. Bosham (Stat.).
The ch. is distant about 1 m. from
the stat., or it may visited from Chi
chester by road ; the distance is about
4 m., but the ride cannot be recom
mended on the score of beauty or in
terest. All this is forgotten, however,
when the venerable tower is at last
seen presiding over the quaint fishing
village, at the head of its historic
creek. The Church, dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, stands on a green ris
ing ground, extending to the water,
and consists of chancel, nave, with
N. and S. aisles, and W. tower. The
portions called Saxon should he first
noticed. These are the Chancel Arch
and the Tower. The first is circular
and unusually lofty, the pier shafts
very high, with moulded capitals, and
their bases, laid bare in 1865, are of
such a character that whether they
are Saxon or Roman is " adhuc sub
judice," and the visitor may make
his own discoveries. The Tower
seems to have more positive claims.
There is no external door. Above
the circular arch, opening to the
nave, is a triangular-headed window,
with long-and-short work (such an
arch occurs at Jarrow, and in other
Anglo-Saxon buildings), and a small
square slit beside it. In the mas
sive walls are several round-headed
windows deeply splayed. Two stages
are marked without by square-edged p 2

100 Route 21. — Brighton to Portsmouth — Bosham. Sussex.

stringcourses, and under the spire is
a Norm. (?) corbel-table. The parish
books record that the steeple was
set on fire hy lightning in 1638, but
no great harm was done. This por
tion of the building has at least
the best claim of having witnessed
Harold's appearance with hawk on
wrist, as he is represented in the
Bayeux tapestry, entering the church
of Bosham to perform his devotions,
before sailing from the harbour on
his fatal visit to Duke William. The
Norm, arch, depressed by accident,
and still remaining, is represented in
the tapestry.
The present Chancel is E. E., with
an E. window of 5 lights. A college
for a dean and 5 secular prebendaries
was founded at Bosham by William
Warlewast, Bp. of Exeter, about 1120.
This bishop had dissolved his college
atPlymptonin Devonshire, on account
of the irregular lives of the inmates,
and he settled the same number on
his manor here. The chancel was
appropriated to this college, but is
of considerably later date than its
foundation. The shafts of the ori
ginal E. E. windows are of Petworth
marble. In the N. wall, under an
arched recess, is a figure, tradition
ally said to be that of a daughter of
Canute, who visited Earl Godwin at
his castle here, and died. It is short,
and apparently temp. Edw. I. The
remaining stall-work is Perp. The
nave is E. E., with circular piers and
broad bases. The windows are of
all dates, only one being the original
E. E. At the E. end of the S. aisle is
a groined E. E. crypt. In the wall
adjoining is an arched tomb of some
peculiarity. The font is E. E. The
earliest exterior buttresses seem to
be E. E.
In the course of some restorations
made in 1865, the bases of the
columns supporting the chancel
arch were laid bare, and in front of
one of them was discovered a small
stone coffin, which is presumed to
be that of the daughter of Canute.

Bosham Church is twice mentioned
in the Domesday Survey, and is re
presented hut only under a general
form, and not as a portrait, in the
famous Bayeux tapestry, where Ha
rold enters it before sailing. The
very first picture in the tapestry ex
hibits " Harold and his knights rid
ing towards Bosham," one of his
principal manors on the S. coast.
The well-known story, in which his
father, Earl Godwin, is made to ask
" Da mihi basium " in taking leave
of Abp. iEthelnoth, and then to in
sist that the archbishop had given
him Bosham, is first told by Walter
de Mapes, and is of about equal
authenticity with that recording the
union of Bath and Wells. The lands
of Harold extended from Chichester
to Havant. The site of his residence
at Bosham was probably that of the
present manor-house, not far from
the church, where an ancient moat in
closes a considerable piece of ground.
The barn in front is erected on re
mains of stone walls of great anti
quity. The importance of Bosham
no doubt arose from its being a
safe landing-place at the head of
the creek. Its name (Bosanhamm,
Boso's meadow) is at least as old as
Bede's time, who tells us that, when
Bp. Wilfrid of York visited Sussex in
681, he found here at Bosham, en
circled by woods and by the sea,
(sylvis et mari circumdatum), a small
religious house of 5 or 6 brethren,
ruled by a Scot named Dicul, — a
little Christian fortress in the midst
of the heathen Saxons, on whom, how
ever, Dicul and his monks had made
no impression whatever. How far Bp.
Warlewast's foundation was on the
same site as Dicul's (which was con
firmed by Wilfrid) is of course un
certain. Of the later college some
portions remain close to the ch. An
arched doorway here may perhaps
be of the same date as the chancel ;
the rest seems later. Herbert de
Bosham, Becket's secretary, but not,
as is generally asserted, one of those

Sussex. Route 22. — London to Tunbridge Wells.

101

present at his death, was either a
native of the village or a canon of
this college. His ' Book of Becket's
Martyrdom' was to befoundin almost
every religious house.
The bells of Bosham are said to
have been carried off by the Danes.
In punishment of their sacrilege,
however, a great storm arose before
they were half-way down the creek,
and the weight of the bells sank
their ship. But they still remain
under the water, and on great
festival days, so runs the tale, their
voices may be heard chiming in
sympathy with their Protestant suc
cessors in the tower. How far
this is a scandal on the ancient
bells, any one may judge who re
marks the strong echo floating back
from the West Itchenor woods, E. of
the creek. Similar legends are told
of Bottreaux in Cornwall, and of
more than one church on the coast of
Normandy. A colossal head, found
in the churchyard here, is now
preserved in the palace garden at
Chichester. It has been taken for
Woden or Jupiter, but is more pro
bably the fragment of a St. Chris
topher. The prebendal churches attached
to the college of Bosham seem to
have been restored or rebuilt about
the same time as the chancel of the
parent church. Chidham (1 m. W.)is
E. E. of that time, as is Appledram,
about £ m. off the road in the way
back to Chichester. A farm-house
at this latter place, near the church,
is said to be a portion of a tower
built by William Renan, temp. Edw.
II. But a licence to crenellate
could not be obtained from the
king, and the stone which had been
collected for the rest of the castle
was bought by Bp. Langton, who
used it for the campanile adjoining
the cathedral.
Along the flat coast district the
rly. proceeds to
35£ m. Emswokth (Stat.), where the
Hampshire border is crossed. 1 m.

N., in Sussex, is Wesfbourne, where
the ch, Tr.-Norm. and ,E.E., has a
very large and massive Perp. tower,
and a beautiful avenue of yew-trees.
(For the line beyond Emsworth, by
Havant, to Portsmouth, see Handbook
for Surrey and Hants.)

ROUTE 22.
LONDON TO TUNBRIDGE WELLS, BY
THREE BRIDGES, EAST GRINSTEAD,
WITHYHAM, AND GROOMBRIDGE.
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
,Rly.—East Grinstead Branch.)
London to Reigate (see Handbook
for Surrey).
Reigate to Three Bridges Junct.
Stat., Rte. 17 (ante).
Here the line branches to East
Grinstead through a country abound
ing in wood.
2| m. Rowfant (Stat.).
4 m. Grange Road (Stat.).
6f m. East Gkinstead (Stat.) (Pop.
5390) (Inn, Dorset Arms), whose
church, on its lofty ridge, serves as
a landmark to all the surrounding
country. East Grinstead was a borough
until the time of the Reform Bill. It
contains several old timbered houses,
and also some handsome new ones,
the neighbourhood having a high
reputation ahke for beauty and salu
brity. The Church has been 3 times
rebuilt, the first having been de
stroyed by lightning in 1684. The
tower of its successor fell in 1785,

102

Route 22. — London to Tunbridge Wells.

Sussex.

and was replaced by that now exist
ing; lofty and pinnacled, and very
effective at a distance, but not cal
culated to stand close inspection.
The ch. is ded. to St. Swithin, and
contains (preserved from the earlier
building) a Brass for Sir Thomas
Grey and Richard Lewkener of
Brambletye (1505), husbands suc
cessively of Catherine, daughter of
Lord Scales. The lady's effigy is
lost. She and her 2nd husband
founded and endowed the church, de
stroyed in 1684. Here is also the
tomb of Speaker Abbot (1st Lord
Colchester), d. 1829.
Notice in the ch.-yard a slab to
the memory of John Gardner, car
penter, his wife, son, and daughter
(son lost with all his crew in the
Pearl in the Bay of Bengal), covered,
both sides, with verses much better
than the average of mortuary poetry.
Sackville College, near the ch., is a
quaint-looking building, reminding
one, on a small scale, of the W.
front of Knole. It was founded
1609 by Robert Sackville, 2nd Earl
of Dorset, whose will provided 10002.
for building this college, and 330Z.
per annum for the maintenance of
its inmates, 31 poor men and women.
The foundation is one of the most
liberal since the Reformation, and
improvements (mainly due to a late
Warden, the Rev. J. M. Neale, D.D.)
have much increased the import
ance of the college. The hall
and chapel have been rebuilt since
1848, from designs by Butterfield,
who has also superintended many
lesser alterations. The college stands
on high ground, and commands noble
views towards Ashdown Forest. It
is of grey sandstone, and forms a
quadrangle, round which are ar
ranged the different apartments.
A set of rooms on the N.W. side is
called the Dorset Lodgings, having
been set apart for the accommodation
of the founder's family. A warden,
2 assistant wardens, 6 brethren, and

6 sisters, make up the present esta
blishment. The patronage is in the
Sackville family.
Near the College is an estab
lishment, called the House of Mercy,
conducted somewhat in imitation
of the Roman Catholic Sisters of
Charity. At Turner's Hill, W. of the Church
of East Grinstead, is the birthplace
of the river Medway; which runs
through Forest Row and then turns
northward on its way to the Thames.
About 3 m. S.E. of East Grin
stead, and near Forest Row Stat.,
are the remains of Brambletye House,
of no great interest in themselves,
and which certainly will not now be
visited for the sake of any fictitious
importance conferred on them by
Horace Smith's romance. The house
was built temp. James I. by Sir
Henry Compton. In 1683 it was
the property of a Sir James Rick-
ards, during whose absence at a
great hunt in Ashdown Forest, runs
the tradition, the house was searched
on suspicion of treason. Large sup
plies of arms and other military stores
were discovered, and the news was
conveyed to Sir James, who escaped
to Spain without returning to Bram
bletye House. This was left unin
habited, and gradually fell into decay.
The few remains are of James I.'s
time ; but the scenery of the valley
in which they stand is more attrac
tive than the ruins themselves.
Through deep cuttings to
10 m. Foebst Row (Stat.). Forest
Row is a straggling hamlet said to
have been originally built for the
accommodation of the lords and their
retinue, who came to " rouse the
hart" in the adjoining Forest of
Ashdown. Kidbrooke (G. Fielden,
Esq.) adjoins.
13J m. Haetpield (Stat.) lies on
theN. edge of ABhdown Forest. -The
church has E. E. and Dec. portions,

Sussex. Route 22a. — Tunbridge Wells to Hastings.
and the lich-gate is worth notice. In
this parish are some scanty remains
of Bolebrook, an ancient house of
the Sackvilles. It was of brick, and
dated from the 15th cent. There
are fine views from Holly Hill (B.
Hale, Esq.), Perry Hill, and High
Beeches, all lying N. of the village
and on the borders of Kent.
14 fm.WiTHTHAM (Stat.) Much of
the Ch. was destroyed by lightning
in the 17th cent. ; but there are still
some E. E. portions. It was rebuilt
in 1672, and restored 1855, when a S.
aisle was built, and the Dorset chan
cel, date 1624, was renovated. It con
tains 3 monuments worth notice. The
earliest is an altar-tomb of white
marble, for Richard Earl of Dorset, d.
1677. Aninfant son lies in the centre;
the father and mother stand on either
side ; the earl died before the monu
ment, originally intended for the son
alone, could be erected. The 2 re
maining monuments are — Duke of
Dorset, d. 1799 (Nollekens), and
Duke of Dorset, killed by a fall from
his horse, 1815 (Flaxman). Pope's
verses on the Earl of Dorset, who
died at Bath in 1705, usually printed
as "in the Church of Withyham"
are not here, although the Earl him
self, " The grace of courts, the Muse's
pride," is buried in the church. So
also is Thos. Sackville, Lord Buck-
hurst, Lord High Treasurer to Queen
Elizabeth, but without a monument.
In this ch., as in Hartfield, and
others throughout the district, are
several iron tomb-slabs, of local
manufacture. They are said gene
rally to indicate the graves of pro
prietors of foundries.
1 m. S.E. of the church are the re
mains of Buckhurst, for many centuries
the residence ofthe Sackvilles. Early
in the 17th cent, the family obtained
a grant of Knole in Kent from the
Crown ; having represented the " ex
treme bad ways " which made travel
ling difficult in the neighbourhood of

103

Buckhurst. Thither they removed,
and the stately old mansion of Buck
hurst was suffered to fall into decay,
a part of the materials being used for
building Sackville College in East
Grinstead. The size and import-.
ance of the ancient house may be
estimated from the ground-plan in
Walpole's Anecdotes of Painters,
vol. i. The solitary survivor of so
much magnificence is the gate tower,
of no very great interest. Adjoining
is the modern house of Buckhurst
Park (Earl De La Warr).
17J m. Geoombeidge JuNCT.(Stat.).
Crown, a. clean country Inn.
rt. the tine to Uckfield. An Act
has also been obtained for a line
from Groombridge to East Bourne.
1. is Groombridge Place, a modern
moated house, on the site of the castle
of the Wallers, where the Duke of
Orleans was kept a prisoner after the
battle of Agincourt.
rt. is the picturesque house of Ed
ward Cook, R.A. (Rte. 15), Glen
Andred, placed in the midst of a
beautiful combination of rocks and
foliage, showing the effects of judi
cious planting of rare conifers,
combined with an artist's taste in
gardening. rt. The railway passes close under
the High Rocks, just before reaching
20J m. Tunbridge Wells Terminus,
near "the Well and the Pantiles, \ m.
from the S.E. Rly. Stat. (Rte. 15).

ROUTE 22a.
TUNBRIDGE WELLS TO HASTINGS,
BY FRANT [MAYFIELD].
This road runs at a distance from
railways, and has no public convey
ance. The distance is about 35 m.
In passing through Frant, 3 m., it

104 Rte. 22a.— Tunbridge Wells to Hastings— Mayfield. Sussex.'

commands the lovely view already
described, over the adjoining park
of Eridge (Marquis of Abergavenny)
(Rte. 15).
6 m. Mark Cross. Near Mark Cross
is a Roman Catholic Orphanage,
built by the Dowager Duchess of
Leeds. rt. 2 m. Rotherfield Stat., on Tun
bridge and Lewes Rly. (Rte. 19).
The original chm-ch was founded by
"the ealdorman Berhtwald," who
had been cured of a grievous sick
ness by a visit to the shrine of
St. Denys, and who, having brought
back with him some relics from
the monastery, built a ch. here on
his "Villa of Ridrefeld," in which
to place them. Berhtwald after
wards (in 792) gave his church to the
Abbey of St. Denys, which founda
tion established a cell here. The
present Church, ded. to St. Denys,
is mainly E. E., and has an open
roof of chestnut. It has been well
restored ; a mural painting repre
senting the martyrdom of St. Law
rence is seen near the pulpit. The
river Rother rises here. 4 m. further
is 8 m. (from T. W.) Mayfield. (Star,
a fair country Inn.) The village
stands high, commanding wide views
of a country wooded and full of
variety. Mayfield was a " peculiar "
of the archbishops of Canterbury,
and one of the hne of similar parishes
which extended across the country
from the borders of Kent to Tarring
in the neighbourhood of Worthing.
Abp. Dunstan built the first ch. at
Magavelda, as in other villages re
mote from Canterbury, where he had
residences. It was of wood, and, find
ing when dedicating it that its posi
tion was not exactly E. and W., he
put his shoulder to it, and " aliquan-
tulum pressit " the whole building
into the right direction (Eadmer, V.
S. Dun.). Just before or after
this miracle, according to the local
tradition,— but the story really be

longs to the time when Dunstan was
a monk at Glastonbury, — Mayfield
was the scene of St. Dunstan's fa
mous contest with the Devil. After
holding the evil spirit with his tongs
for some time, the saint let him
go, when he leaped at one bound to
Tunbridge Wells, and plunging his
nose into the spring, imparted to it
its chalybeate quahties.
The large and handsome Perp.
Church, dedicated to St. Dunstan, has
an E. E. tower surmounted by a
broach spire, and contains some iron
grave-slabs, 1668 to 1708, cast in the
forges of Sussex, and carved wood
work. The Palace, adjoining the church,
was a favourite residence ofthe Ahps.
An important council, regulating the
celebration of holydays and saints'
festivals, was held here in 1332,
under Abp. Mepham, who, hke Abps.
Stratford and Islip, died at Mayfield.
The last-named archbishop built
the greater part of the palace here,
" and wasted more of the timber in
the Dourdennes (Weald of Kent)
than any of his predecessors." — S.
de Birchington. He fell from his
horse in riding between Sevenoaks
and Tunbridge ; did not change his
dress, and after dinner, at Mayfield,
was seized with paralysis,— -a fate
which Aubrey might have recorded
among his examples of oak-cutters'
misfortunes (see Norwood, Hand
book for Surrey, &c). Cramner ex
changed Mayfield with the king for
other lands, and it has since passed
through the hands of many dif
ferent proprietors. Sir Thos. Gres-
ham, builder of the Exchange, re
sided here occasionally in great
state, and entertained Elizabeth
during one of her progresses. About
1740 the house was completely dis
mantled, and left to go to ruin until
1864, when the Duchess Dowager of
Leeds purchased it and the land ad-1
jacent, and converted it into a Nun
nery. The ruined Hall has become

Sussex.

Route 22a. — Mayfield.

105

the chapel, and other portions of the
ruins .were restored by Pugin, jun.
The chapel is obligingly shown by
one of the sisters.
The remains of the Palace de
serve careful attention. They are
partly Dec. of the 14th, and Perp. of
the 16th cent. The building, the
plan of which was irregular, consisted
of a principal hall, with apartments
at the E. end, having projections in
the form of square towers. At the
lower end ofthe hall were the kitchen
and buttery, and a tower with ser
vants' apartments. On the S. side
was the porter's lodge.
The most ancient part of the build
ing is the Great Hall, now a chapel,
dating about 1350, and evidently the
work of Abp. Islip. The stone used
is the sand rock ofthe neighbourhood.
The porch is massive and well propor
tioned. The arches, turned above the
windows, between the buttresses, and
" thus made to sustain a longitudinal
as weU as an outward pressure,"
should be remarked. Pinnacles pro
bably once existed on the buttress-
heads, balancing the thrust of the
internal arch. " The whole design
is singular, but beautiful, and has
been followed to some extent in
the windows of the new library
at St. Augustine's, Canterbury."
The transoms of the windows are
peculiar to the domestic architec
ture of the time. Their tracery
is remarkable, and should be com
pared with that in the hall-win
dows at Penshurst (Hdbk. Kent, Rte.
2), and in the windows of Chartham
Church, near Canterbury (Hdbk.
Kent, Rte. 7). Three lofty stone
arches (original) span the hall, and
sustain a modern timber roof of acute
pitch, resembling those at the Mote,
Ightham, Kent, where the centre arch
is of stone, with timber arches at each
end. The stone arches serve the
purpose of principals ; the timber roof
is a modern restoration. Remark the

vine, ivy, and oak-leaf of the roof
corbels, bits of " naturalism " of the
very best period. The stone diaper
work at the upper end marks the
seat of the archbishop. (Comp. that
in Canterbury Cathedral, over Dun-
stan's shrine Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 3.) The
closed window in the wall above pro
bably communicated with his private
apartments. Internal length of hall,
68 ft. ; breadth, 38 ft. ; height, 50 ft.
In the Great Dining-Room, now
converted into the nuns' dwelling, is
a hooded chimney-piece of stone, per
haps older than the hall. Observe
the open lead-work and fleur-de-lys in
the window of a lower room, perhaps
a larder. Here are still exhibited
some venerable rehcs : St. Dunstan's
anvil, hammer, and tongs, of course the
identical pah with which he pinched
the Devil. An ancient sword, called
St. Dunstan's, may also be inspected.
" The anvil and tongs are of no great
antiquity, but the hammer, with its
solid iron handle, may be mediaeval."
— M. A. Lower. AU are of local
manufacture, as is the massive hand
rail of the great stone staircase.
This parish, like others of the
archbishop's " peculiars," stretching
through the Weald towards Lewes,
is in the heart of the Sussex iron
district (see Introduction). Mayfield
had important furnaces, and the
iron copings of Rochester Bridge
(now destroyed), presented early in
the 16th cent, by Abp. Warham,
were probably manufactured here.
(M. A. Lower.)
St. Dunstan's Well, carefully wailed
round, adjoins the garden. Thomas
May, the historian of the Long Par
liament, was born in the palace in
1595. The village contains some very
picturesque old houses: "the Middle
House," 1576, half timbered, very
picturesque, has some carved work
inside ; " the Lower House," of stone,
F 3

106 Rte. 22a. — TunbridgeWells to Hastings — Heathfield. Sussex.

temp. James I. ; and others of less
importance. At Pennybridge are two Roman
Catholic Orphanages, built 1866.
Mayfield is a good centre from
which to explore the picturesque
scenery of the surrounding district.
Rotherfield and Crowborough Bea
con may be visited from here ; and
the pedestrian will find a walk
through the wild country between
Mayfield and East Grinstead full
of interest. (See Rte. 22.) The
accommodation both at Mayfield and
at the other villages on this line is
sufficiently rustic, but the never-
failing Sussex resource of eggs and
bacon may be depended on, and, for
the most part, the cleanliness and
lavender sheets of Isaac Walton's old-
fashioned inn.
All this country will be best ex
plored by the pedestrian, who will
find his pilgrimage in search of the
picturesque amply rewarded. Owing
to the peculiar formation of the
Hastings sand, the whole district is
broken into hill and valley, forming
a class of scenery quite distinct from
that of any other part of Sussex, and
strongly resembling some corners of
Devon. Nothing of this is seen from
any line of railroad as yet made,
but the Surrey and Sussex line (Rte.
20) would have opened up the dis
trict. The " picturesque old villages,
the venerable farms niched into the
hill-sides, with the 'wallet' oak
in front of the porch, and the
green wish or meadow below,"
the hollow with its group of old
ash-trees, and deep lanes hung with
fern and wild flowers, afford a suc
cession of pictures well worth the
seeking. There are tolerable coun
try Inns at Mayfield and at Maresfield,
which the tourist will find good
centres. From Mayfield a lower spur of the
forest ridge may be reached at
Heathfield, 5 m. S. by footpath,

but 8 m. by road, through scenery of
the character already noticed. The
summit of the ridge will be gained
at Cross-in-hand, 2 m. W. of Heath
field, where is a small country Inn,
and a ch. (erected 1864). The view
from this point is magnificent, and
especially from the Windmills, a tittle
W. of the village, extending far over
the Weald E. and W., with the line
of the S. Downs and the sea in front.
Heathfield Park (Sir C. W. Blunt,
but occupied by Lord C. Hamilton)
was long the residence of Gene
ral Elliot, the famous defender of
Gibraltar ; whose title of Lord Heath
field was derived from this place.
The house has since been greatly
altered. The park is very fine, and
commands noble views : the South
Down range especially is seen well
from here. At the N.W. corner is
Heathfield Tower, a mark for the
entire Weald, rising as it does from
ground about 600 ft. above sea-level.
It was built in honour of the hero
of Gibraltar (Calpes defensori), by
Francis Newbery, Esq., to whom
Lord Heathfield's successor sold the
estate. From the top of the tower
the views embrace much of Kent
and Sussex, with the coast-line from
Beachy Head to Hastings. Forty
churches are visible. The scene is
fine, but not finer than that from
Cross-in-hand. Louis Huth, Esq.,
of London, purchased Possingworth
Manor, near Cross-in-hand, and in
1866 erected a large mansion com
manding a fine view. The old house
at Possingworth (now a farmhouse)
is not unworthy of notice.
About J m. N.E. from Heathfield
Park is Cade Street, where a tradition
asserts that Jack Cade, the proposed
reformer ofthe commonwealth, was
killed by Alexander Iden, Sheriff of
Kent. Cade is said to have been
playing at bowls in the garden of
an alehouse in the village, when he
was struck dead by a shaft from
Iden's bow. Heathfield (now Hoth-

Sussex. Route 22a. — Warbleton — Brightling Down.

field, Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 2) in Kent
also claims to have been the scene of
Cade's death ; but his name was com
mon throughout this part of Sussex,
of which, in spite of Shakespeare (see
Hdbk. Kent, Rte. 2, Ashford), he
semes to have been a native ; and he
is known to have been a follower of
Lord Dacres, to whom Heathfield
Park then belonged. The pillar at
Cade Street, marking the supposed
spot of his death, was erected, like
Heathfield Tower, by Mr. Newbery.
One of the largest iron-furnaces in
Sussex was situated about 1 m. below
Heathfield ch. The cannon cast here
bore a high reputation, and were
considered the best manufactured at
an English foundry. Traces of the
furnace and banks are still visible ;
but all working has long ceased
(post). At Warbleton, adjoining Heathfield,
S., are the remains of a Priory of
Augustinian Canons, removed from
Hastings by Sir John Pelham, temp.
Hen. IV. The remains now form
part of a farmhouse, and are hardly
worth examination ; although the
beauty of the site will repay a visit.
Tanner asserts that the intention
of removing the monastery "never
fully took effect ;" but the buildings
were evidently erected, although the
canons may not have been settled
there. Warbleton Church contains the
very fine Brass of William Prestwick,
Dean of St. Mary's College, in Hast
ings Castle (d. 1436). The ap
parel of the cope bears the inscrip
tion " Credo quod redemptor meus
vivit." The canopy, crested with the
"pelican in her piety," deserves espe
cial notice. A loft in the tower is
said to have been used as a prison
during the Marian persecutions ; but
the visitor need not place implicit
confidence in certain so-called ap
pliances for torture exhibited on the
door (Suss. Arch. Coll., xvii. p. 164).

107
Richard Woodman, the principal
Sussex martyr, whose long exami
nation will be found in Fox, was
an iron-master at Warbleton ; and
the sites of his foundry, and of his
dwelling-house, adjoining the ch.-yd.
are still pointed out. After long im
prisonment he was burnt with others
in front of the Star inn, at Lewes,
June 22, 1557.
There is a very extensive view from
Iwood, 1 m. S.E. of the village.
In the parish of Waldron, W. of
Heathfield, are the remains of 2 fine
old residences : Horeham (of the
Dykes), and Tanners (of the Fullers);
they are now farmhouses.
Keeping along the ridge E. toward
Battle, Dallington, 4 m. from Heath
field, commands a noble view from
the church, which is surmounted by
a stone spire. The Pelham buckle
appears on the outside walls and
tower battlements. Henry I. re
warded the citizens of Caen with
this manor for yielding up their town
to him.
Brightling Down, which lies N. of
the road, is the highest part of the
ridge; it commands perhaps the
finest panoramic view throughout
the Weald, and figures in Turner's
Coast Scenery though not without
a considerable display of " Turnerian
topography." The French coast is
occasionally visible ; and a grand
sweep of Sussex, Kent, and Surrey,
stretches away into the blue distance.
The highest point of the Down is
marked by an observatory, 646 ft.
above sea-level, built by the late
well-known Jack Fuller, of Rose
Hill Park, M.P. for E. Sussex, a
humourist who often set the House
"in a roar." He was a patron of
science and art, and a man of true
benevolence. Not far from it is
a lofty obelisk, also a conspicuous
landmark. The site of the ancient
beacon on this Down is called
" Brown's Burgh.''

108

Route 22a. — Ashburnham.

Sussex.

Brightling Church, a picturesque
building of Dec. and E. E. date,
contains the monument of " Jack
Fuller," with a fine bust, and a
tablet raised by him to the memory
of Shield the composer, which the
Dean and Chapter of Westminster
declined to allow to be set up in the
Abbey. Rose Hill and Socknersh (John
Hallaway, Esq.), are in this parish.
From Dallington the tourist may
if he pleases find his way through a
country full of deep lanes, and steep
short hills, to Ashburnham Place
(Earl of Ashburnham), 3m. S.,aplace
which ought to be one of the most
interesting in Sussex, but which is in
reality one ofthe most disappointing.
The most adventurous wanderer will
sound his horn before its portals
in vain. The relics of Charles I.
given, to his attendant John Ash
burnham, and by one of his suc
cessors " bequeathed to the parish
for ever," " to be exhibited as great
curiosities," have been removed from
the church, where they were long
preserved, to Ashburnham House —
where, together with other collec
tions of great interest, they are en
tirely inaccessible to the public.
The relics consist of the shirt worn
by Charles on the scaffold the king's
watch, his white silk drawers, and
the sheet thrown over the body after
the execution. " The superstitious
of the last, and even of the present
age, have occasionally resorted to
these relics for the cure of the
king's evil." — Horsfield.
One of the finest private collec
tions in England of MSS. and printed
books is at Ashburnham Place. The
famous library from Stowe is now
here. The printed books nearly
equal the Grenville Library; and
the MS. collection, so far as Latin
and European, languages go, is
perhaps the most splendid display
of ancient literature ever brought
together by a subj ect. Among other

treasures preserved here is the well-
known collection of MSS. made by
M. Barrois, a Belgian, which con
tains some of the most valuable
productions of Netherlandish art.
The house also contains a collection
of old plate, well deserving of ad
miration and study. Three well-
known pictures — the portraits of
Rainier Anslo and his mother, by
Rembrandt (one of his most im
portant works) ; a village festival by
Teniers; and a fine landscape by
Cuyp — were bought in at the sale
of Lord Ashburnham 's collection in
1850, and are at Ashburnham House,
London. Ashburnham Church stands in the
park close to the house, and is ac
cessible, though not without some
difficulty. It was entirely rebuilt by
the same John Ashburnham, " of the
bedchamber " to Charles I. and II.,
who died in 1671. It contains the
monument of himself and his 2
wives ; and of his brother, Sir
William Ashburnham. The grey
chm-ch tower, a relic of the former
church, combines well with the red
brick of the mansion, the greater
part of which is modern, and which
stands, with gables and a lofty tower,
a picturesque mass on a knoll in a
wide " coombe " backed with steep
woods. No part of this mansion,
the residence of Fuller's "family
of stupendous antiquity, wherein the
eminency hath equalled the anti
quity," is shown. There is a public
path through the park, which the
stranger will do well to follow. It
commands very striking views, and
on the S. side the whole line of coast
is visible, terminating in the grey
cliff of Beachy Head.
Bertram de Eshburnham was
" vice-comes" of Kent and Sussex at
the time of the Conqueror's invasion.
Harold's writ, commanding him to
assemble the " posse comitatum,"
was, says Fuller, " lately in tho
possession of this family."

Sussex. Route 23. — London to Petworth — Crawley.

109

Ashburnham was famous for its
iron-furnace, the last which ceased
working in E. Sussex. The descrip
tion given of it by Mr. Bartlett, of
Maidstone, contrasts curiously with
the vast scale on which iron-works
of the present day are carried on.
" The bed of the furnace from which
the iron was drawn to be cast into
' pigs,' &c, was made of large blocks
of stone, taken from some of the
rocks at Hastings, which were about
4 feet square inside ; 2 bellows, each
about 12 feet long, were worked by
an over-shot water-wheel. The iron
ore was brought from pits some few
miles distant. The fuel (charcoal)
was made principally from oak-trees
on the estate. The 'blasting' of
this furnace was carried on at inter
vals of about 3 years, and continued
in blast for about 2 or 3 months each
time, till the stock of material was
used up. The last casting was in
the year 1809. This was the last
furnace in use in Sussex or Kent;
and it was brought abruptly to a close
in consequence of the intoxicated
habits of the foundry-men. By neg
lecting the proper mixture of chalk,
&c, with the ore, the flux did not
separate as it should have done, to
run off, and it remained a mass, from
which the iron could not be drawn
off to be run into ' pigs ' for the forge
• — the blasting was of necessity
stopped, and no attempt was made
afterwards to renew the work. It
was the habit of gin-drinking that
brought the work to a premature
close before the iron was all worked
up. It may be observed that at the
time these works were in operation,
smuggling was carried on to a great
extent in the neighbourhood of Bex
hill, 4c, along the coast to Pevensey ;
and it was not a matter of much diffi
culty for the men to procure a tub
(half-anker; of Hollands gin." The
site of the works, with the hammer-
ponds, remain, less than 1 m. from
Ashburnham House. The iron made
- here was considered the best in

England. " It excelled in quality of
toughness ; and I have been assured
by smiths who have used it, that it
was no wise inferior to the Swedish
metal, generally accounted the best
in the world." — M. A. Lower.
A drive of 4 m. E. from Ashburn
ham through a pleasant open country,
with the grey old abbey in sight
nearly the whole way, will bring the
tourist to
Battle (Rte. 15), whence he may
proceed by railway
(7 m.) to Hastings. (Rte. 15.)

ROUTE 23.
LONDON TO PETWORTH AND MID-
HURST BY HORSHAM.
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway. — Mid-Sussex Line.)
60im.
The journey to Horsham may be
made by rail either (a\ through
Epsom, Leatherhead, and Dorking
(see Handbook for Surrey), or (6), vid
Three Bridges.
For the country to Three Bridges
see Handbook for Surrey and Rte. 17.
30| m. Ceawlev (Stat.).
Crawley, a busy place in the
days of the Brighton coaches (Inn,
George) has a small Dec. church,
which has been restored. The
oaken roof is now uncovered and
on one of the tie-beams is carved
the legend —
" Man yn wele bewar ; for wavldly good
maketh man hlyride.
Bewar be for whate comyth be hinde."
There is a Brass of a lady (c. 1520),
hut the inscription is lost. In the

110 Route 23. — London to Petworth — Horsham.

Sussex.

centre of the village is an elm of
great age, in the hollow of which, it
is said, 20 men could stand. A
flourishing young tree is now
planted within it, and the space
around is railed in and adorned
with flowers.
Proceeding through a wooded
district, part of St. Leonard's Forest
(post) with several wide pools (dis
used hammer-ponds) on either side,
we pass at 34J m. a small station,
called Fay Gate, 2 m. N. of which
is Rusper, where was the small
Benedictine Priory of St. Mary
Magdalene. Its origin and date
of foundation are very uncertain,
though it was probably established by
the family of Braose. There are no
traces of the Priory except the name
of Nunnery House given to its suc
cessor. At a farm called Normans
the family of Mutton professes to
have been established since the Con
quest. A chest is preserved here,
said to have been "brought over the
water" by the "Mutton" who
arrived with the Conqueror. The
ch. has some E. E. portions. In it
are half-length Brasses of John and
Agnes Kyggesfolde, about 1375, and
others of Thos. and Marg. Challoner,
1532. 37| m. Hoesham Junction. Here
five lines meet, (1) the line to
Dorking and Leatherhead (Hand
book for Surrey), which opens another
way to Brighton; (2) the line to
Guildford (post) ; (3) the tine through
Steyning to Shoreham and Brighton
(Rte. 25) ; (4) the line on which we
are travelling ; (5) to Three Bridges
Stat. *Horsham ( Pop. 7831. Inns :
King's Head ; Anchor). The name,
says tradition, is from the Saxon
chief Horsa, who, it is also as
serted, was killed near this place.
A mound at Horsted, near Aylesford
in Kent, is also pointed out as his
tomb ; no doubt the true signification

of the name is hors-ham, the horse
meadow. There is some pleasant country in
the neighbourhood of Horsham, but
the only object of interest in the
place itself is the Church (enlarged
and almost rebuilt in 1865), which
well deserves a visit. It is E. E. with
Perp. additions. The nave and chan
cel are of one pitch; the chancel
gable being terminated on either side
by E. E. buttresses, capped with pin
nacles. The interior roof is Perp. ;
the lofty arches E. E., as is also the
clerestory. Portions of the tower
may be Norm. The large chantry
adjoining the N. porch is apparently
that called the Trinity Chantry,
founded by Sir John Caryll, temp.
Hen. VIII. There is a fine Perp.
E. window of 7 lights, stained glass,
by O'Connor.
Horsham was long in the hands of
the powerful house of Braose, to
whom the building of the ch. may be
attributed, and whose wealth seems
to have been as freely bestowed here
as at Shoreham (seepost and Rte. 21 ).
In the chancel are — the altar-tomb,
with effigy, of Thomas, Lord Braose, d.
1396 ; much mutilated and scratched,
but important as an armour study —
the tomb, with effigy, of Elizabeth
Delves, d. 1654 ; in white marble and
very good ; the feet rest on a lion;
one hand on a book — and a canopied -
altar-tomb of Sussex marble, said to
be that of Thomas Lord Hoo, d.
1455, who long acted as Chancellor
of France, and rendered very im
portant services to Henry VI. both as '
soldier and statesman. Queen Eliza
beth was connected with him through
the Boleyns, and it is said that- the
tomb was repaired by her order after
one of her Sussex progresses. On
the chancel floor is the Brass of
Thomas Clerke, a priest in a cope, '
1411. E. of the churchyard is the Gram
mar School, founded 1532 by Richard
Collier. The quarries from which the Hors-

Sussex. Route '23. — Field Place — St. Leonardos Forest. Ill
Field Place lies Warnham Court, a
large modern Elizabethan mansion,
built by the late Sir H. Pelly.
Warnham pond, in the S. part of this
parish, covers 100 acres. Warnham
is a stat. on the Horsham and
Dorking line.]
[St. Leonard's Forest, containing
about 11,000 acres, lies E. of Horsham
and forms a part of the parish of
Beeding ; from the rest of which, ad
joining Bramber, the castle of the
Braoses, it is separated by three
entire hundreds. There was in the
N. E. quarter a chapel of St. Leonard,
which may have given name to the
forest. No remains exist. St. Leo
nard, whose emblem is a vane, be
sides his more especial office of assist
ing and releasing prisoners, was one
of the patrons of travellers by sea
and land ; and his chapels, both here
and at Hastings, were in the direct
routes of passengers to Normandy.
St. Leonard's forest was held by
the Braose family probably from the
time of the Conquest, and is now
divided among several proprietors.
It is mostly oak and beech; but has
some ancient pine scattered through
it ; and there are extensive planta
tions of larches. Mike Mill's Race, the
principal avenue in it, is 1| m. long,
and contains 15,000 trees, none of
which, however, are of more than
80 years' growth — the older avenue
having been entirely destroyed by
a tremendous storm of wind. Mike
Mill, says the tradition, ran the dis
tance for a wager, and dropped dead
at the end of the race. The eleva
tions within the forest are not great,
though parts are picturesque, and
there are some deep " gills " or water
courses. It was formerly asserted
that, like the entire county of
Devon, the forest could boast of no
nightingales. Although the country
round about, says Andrew Borde " ys
replenysshed with nyghtyngales, they
will never singe' within the precincts
of the foreste, as divers keepers and

ham Stone is obtained, with which
the town is paved, and many Sussex
churches are roofed, are about IJ m.
from the town, but are now little
worked. Local celebrities are —
Nicholas of Horsham, a physician
temp. Hen. VI., and Bernard Lintot,
the famous publisher, born here in
1675. To his press the world is
indebted for Gay's 'Trivia' and
Pope's ' Iliad ' and ' Odyssey.'
From the churchyard a pleasant
path leads into Denne Park (C. G.
Eversfield, Esq.), which is open to
the public. The park is itself high
ground, and commands fine views
over the N. Weald ; Leith Hill and
its Tower forming conspicuous land
marks. The house is old and partly
covered with ivy. A fine beech
avenue, worth visiting, fronts it. From
a mound marked by some fir-trees
near the entrance from the Horsham
road is a good view over the town,half-
buried among trees. Chesworth, the
ancient residence of the Braoses, ad
joins Denne Park. It is now a farm,
but deserves examination. 1 m. E.
is Coolhurst (C. S. Dickens, Esq.).
The house is Elizabethan, and lately
rebuilt. 3 m. N. of Horsham is Field Place,
the birthplace of Shelley (Aug. 4,
1 792). Here the poet passed the first
years of his life, one of his greatest
amusements being the management
of a boat upon Warnham pond ; and
here, after leaving Eton in 1809, he
wrote the ' Wandering Jew,' a long
metrical romance, and the greater pari
of 'Queen Mab.' He never returned
to Field Place after his marriage.
The house stands low, and com
mands no prospect ; some portion is
ancient, but it has been much al
tered. It came into the possession
of Sir Bysshe Shelley, the poet's
grandfather, through his marriage
with the heiress ofthe Michell family,
members of which family had resided
there for many generations. Behind

112 Route 23. — London to Petworth — Billingshursi. Sussex.

other credible parsons dyd show me."
The nightingales were said to have
once disturbed a hermit who had
fixed his cell in the forest; he be
stowed a curse upon them in return
for their songs ; and from that time
they were unable to pass the boun
daries. "Credible parsons" in the
neighbourhood now, however, assert
that, although the nightingales are
very capricious — singing in one wood
and altogether avoiding the next —
they nevertheless abound within the
limits of the forest. A greater wonder
still was the " strange monstrous ser
pent or dragon, lately discovered, and
yet living to the great annoyance and
divers slaughters both of men and
cattle, in St. Leonard's forest, August
1614 ;" but this southern " Dragon
of Wantley ' ' never attained to great
celebrity. Its history seems to have
been developed from an earlier le
gend, which asserts that St. Leonard
himself fought with a " mighty worm ' '
in the forest. The strife was renewed
at many different places, and wherever
the saint's blood fell to the ground
patches of lilies-of-the-valley sprang
up. These flowers still abound here
in the spring, when all the neighbour
hood "goes a lilying." A gloomier
piece of folk- lore declares that a
headless phantom springs up behind
the traveller on horseback through
the forest by night, and cannot be dis-
lodgeduntil the boundaries are passed.
The Arun and the Adur, two of
the principal Sussex rivers, both have
their main sources in this forest ;
and the Ouse rises a short distance
without the southern boundary. The
two large " hammer-ponds " not far
from Coolhurst are relics of the old
Sussex iron -works (see Introd.).
Their bottoms and sides are studded
with a fresh-water mussel (Anodon
anatina), locally known as the " Crow
mussel" from the eagerness with
which it is sought and devoured by
the carrion crow.
An excursion into the forest from
Horsham should include Holmbush

House (J. C. Brown, Esq., M.P.), pic
turesquely situated, and Leonardslee
(W. E. Hubbard, Esq.). 4 m. from
Horsham, and S. of St. Leonard's
Forest, is Nuthurst, in which parish
the woodland scenery is perhaps more
attractive than that of the forest
itself. Nuthurst Lodge commands
very fine views, including a distant
fringe of sea. £ m. N.W. from the
house are the remains of an ancient
castle (Sedgwick), which for some
centuries after the Conquest belonged
to the family of " Le Selvage," and
then to the Braoses. The founda
tions are circular, and surrounded by
a wide moat. An adjoining well,
lined with large blocks of stone, is
called the " Nun's Well." The little
church of Nuthurst is ancient and
worth notice. The excursion may be
made to include Knepp Castle, with
its portrait gallery (Rte. 25) in the
return to Horsham.]
[The rly. to Guildford branches
off from the main line about 2 m.
from Horsham. Slinfold and Rudg-
wick are the only stations in Sussex ;
neither of them are in localities ,
which have any particular interest.]
Leaving Horsham for Petworth,
we have at 40 m. on N. the Ch.
of Itchingfield. It has a low tower
constructed of roughly squared
oak timber, which is however not
earlier than the late Dec. period.
There are similar towers at Warn
ham and at Slinfold. The ch.
itself seems to have been origin
ally E. E. A skull and cross-bones
were formerly fixed on one of the
roof-beams here, a "memento mori."
At the same point on S. a branch
line turns off for Shoreham (Rte. 25).
45 m. Billingshuest (Stat.).
Billingshurst (Pop. 1577), on the
Roman road which ran from Reg
num (Chichester) to Londinium
(London), like the metropolitan
Billingsgate (where the road ended), -

SdSSEX.

Route 23. — Pulborough —Petworth.

113

probably retains the name of the
great Saxon tribe of Billing, of
which an offset settled here. The
ch., which has a lofty spire, well
deserves attention. The S. side is
very early Norman ; the rest, mainly
Perp. ; Brass, Thos. and Ehz.
Bartlett, 1489. Wisborough Green, 2
m. W., is one of the places considered
by Kemble as having been conse
crated to Woden, under his name
Wise (Wish). The ch., on an insu
lated hill, perhaps occupies the site
of an heathen place of worship ; it is
E. E., almost without alteration.
The scenery along the railway,
which passes straight through the
Weald although showing patches of
forest on either side, is not very pic
turesque until we reach
50 m. Pulboeough Junction.
The main line continues S. to Arun
del and Ford Junction (Rte. 24).
That to Petworth turns W.
Pulborough (Pop. 1855). The large
Ch. has portions (chancel and N. aisle)
E. E., the rest early Perp. The
whole is of a type unusual in Sussex,
though common in the W. and mid
land counties. The font is early
Norm. Brasses: Thomas Harlyng,
Canon of Chichester and rector of
Ringwood and Pulborough, 1423
(fine) ; Edmund Mille and wife,
1452 ; and Rich. Mille, his son (in
furred gown), 1478. These were
removed from a sepulchral chapel of
the Mille family (of Greatham, post),
formerly in the churchyard. Due W.
of the ch. is a circular mound, partly
artificial, on which was a Roman
" castellum," commanding the junc
tion of the Arun and Rother. A
foundation arch still exists. Remains
of a circular Roman mausoleum were
found at Mare's Hill in this parish in
1817. There are traces of a villa,
which has been very imperfectly ex
amined, at Borough, N.E. of the
village, on the brow of a hill over
looking the Weald. Roman urns and
coins have frequently been found ;

and one of four Roman pigs of lead,
all of which were stamped with the
letters — " tcltrpvibrexarg " —
and discovered here in 1824, may now
beseeninthegalleryatParham. The
inscription has not been satisfactorily
explained. The whole of these re
lics are due to the neighbourhood
of the Roman road — the Stane Street
— which passes through Pulborough
in its way to Bignor and Chichester.
A short distance below the church
are the remains of Old Place, the
mansion of the Apsleys. They seem
temp. Hen. VI., and are worth ex
amination : what remains of the
barn is perhaps earlier.
There is a small Inn (The Swan)
at Pulborough, at which very toler
able accommodation can be had. The
country round is rich in interest (see
Rte. 24), although the best scenery,
close under the South Downs, is still
at some distance.
From Pulborough the rly. pro
ceeds through the valley of the
Rother toward Petworth. Near 51 m.
is the restored ch. of Hardham, S.,
and on the other side of the river
is Stopham, the Church of which
is interesting. It is partly Norm.
and contains a series of Brasses
(some partially restored) of the Bar-
telott family, hereditary seneschals
to the Earls of Arundel, from their
first settlement here in the 1 5th cent.
to the time of Charles I. The
fragments of stained glass are said
to have been brought from the hall
windows of the ancient manor-house,
now rebuilt.
55i m. Petwoeth (Stat.)
The town of Petworth, Um. N.of
the stat. (Pop. 3304. Inns : **Half
Moon, best ; the Swan) is a mass of
narrow and irregular streets, which
have grown up about the ancient
manor of the Percies. Its later lords
have done much for Petworth. The
¦market-house in the centre of the

114

Route 23. — Petworth Church and House.

Sussex.

town, with its bust of William the
"Deliverer," was built by George
O'Brien, Earl of Egremont; and
beyond the church is an Almshouse
founded by Duke Charles of Somer
set in the early part of the last cent.,
a remarkable specimen of the brick
building of that time.
The Church, Perp. for the most
part, was restored by Lord Egre
mont; and the spire (180 ft. high)
is an early work of Sir Charles
Barry, who, after building it, took
down the tower beneath and recon
structed it, leaving the spire mean
while under-pinned by scaffolding.
The interior is very unprepossessing,
the numerous and heavy galleries
giving the edifice a most theatrical
appearance. Its most interesting
portion is the large N. chantry, origi
nally dedicated to St. Thomas of
Canterbury, in which , many of the
Percies are buried. A memorial of
them was erected here in 1837, by
Lord Egremont, then in his 86th
year : "Mortuis Moriturus." It is a
figure of Religion leaning on a cross,
at the foot of which - is placed an
open Bible. The left hand holds a
chalice, and rests on a kind of sarco
phagus. The sculptor is Carew, "pas
meme academicien." "Proh pudor
academise, non academicus," runs the
inscription : but the work is not too
good. The Percies commemorated
and buried here are the ninth Earl,
long the victim of the Gunpowder
Plot ; Algernon, the tenth ; and Jos-
celine, the eleventh, in whom the
male line became extinct. Lady
Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle,
also rests here, and a further inscrip
tion records the somewhat doubtful
fact that in this ch. is buried Josce-
line de Louvain, who, temp. Hen. I.,
first brought Petworth into the
family of the Percies. A far more
successful monument is the sitting
figure of Lord Egremont himself,
which "Bailey faciebat 1840." The
altar-tomb against the N. wall be
longs to a knight of the Dawtrey

family, 1527. The painted vault-ribs
in this chapel are deplorable. The
ch. contains an early tablet by
Flaxman : it commemorates a Dr.
Wickens. One of the rectors of
Petworth was Francis Cheynell,
the unrelenting opponent of Chilling-
worth (Rte. 21). In the parish re
gister, following the entry of the
baptism of his daughter Grace, in
1646, he has inserted a profession
of his faith, divided into 18 articles
and filling two folio pages ; it is
subscribed by himself, his wife, and
several of his parishioners. (Suss.
Arch. Coll., xiv.)
The grand interest of Petworth,
however, and that which makes it a
resort of art pilgrims from all parts of
Europe, is iheHouse (Ld. Leconfield),
with its vast and superb collection of
pictures, about 600 in number, of
which only about 300, however, are
shown. Few English "honours" can
show a more undisturbed succession
than this. It was granted by " Alice
la Belle," dowager Queen of Henry I.
(part of whose dower it had formed),
to her brother, Josceline of Louvain,
of the great house of Brabant.
Josceline married Agnes, heiress of
the "Percies owte of Northumber
land ;" and with the exception of a
break, 1537-57, the manor has ever
since continued in the hands of this
great family and its descendants,
passing, after the death of the last
Earl in 1670, to Charles Duke of
Somerset, who married Lady Eliza
beth Percy, only child of Earl
Josceline, and through his daughter
Catherine to the Wyndhams, in
whose hands it now remains. The
old castellated house of the Percies
seems to have occupied the same
site as the present mansion. "It
was," says Fuller, "most famous
for a stately stable, the best of
any subject's in Christendom . . .
affording standing in state for three
score horses, with all necessary ac
commodations." Edward VI. was en-

Sussex.

Route 23. — Petioorth : Pictures.

115

tertained here for some days ; and in
1703 Charles III. of Spain, " Catholic
king by the grace of the heretics,"
as Walpole calls him, rested some
days here on his way to visit Queen
Anne at Windsor. Such rest was
needful, as the king had " made no
stop on the way from Portsmouth,
except when his coach was over
thrown or stuck in the mud." He
was met here by Prince George of
Denmark, who had encountered simi
lar misfortunes in approaching Pet
worth from Godalming. The Allied
Sovereigns, the Prince Regent, the
Emperor Alexander, and the King
,of Prussia, who, together with the
Prince of Wirtemburg and the Grand
Duchess of Oldenburg, visited the
Earl of Egremont here in 1814, were
happily subjected to no such perils
during their progress over roads to
which the Sussex "clinkers," or iron
stone, had by that time been apphed.
Nearly the whole of the earlier
building was removed by the Duke
of Somerset, the old chapel being
the principal part left. The mass of
the present house is therefore of his
time (about 1730), but numerous
alterations and additions were made
by George O'Brien, Earl of Egre
mont, 1763-1837. It cannot be said
that the house possesses the slightest
architectural attraction. The front
towards the park, with its 3 ranges of
21 large windows, resembles a strip
from an indifferent London terrace,
of which the long straight line is
only broken by the church spire
rising at the back.
The Petworth collections are
allowed to be seen on Tuesdays and
Thursdays, between 11-1, and 2-4.
Application should be made at the
porter's lodge, in the upper part of
the town, near the W. end of the
ch.-yd. Of the pictures, many of the Van-
diycks rank among his finest works,
and so many genuine pictures by Hol
bein as are here assembled are rarely

to be seen. The rooms usually
shown will be traversed in the
following order : —
(1) Duke of Somerset's Room. —
Card-players : Jan Matsys (son of
Quentin). Corps-de-garde : Eeckhout.
Landscape : Lucas van Uden. Two
landscapes : Hobbema. Sea-shore
with buildings : Claude. " The effect
of the clearest morning light is here
given with the utmost delicacy."
Portrait of Claas Van Vourhoot,
" Brouwer in dos Brouwery Swaan"
—Brewer in the Swan brewery—
(written on the back) : Frank Hals.
Edward VI. under a canopy, date
1547, the year of his accession, setat.
10: Holbein. The Archduke Leopold.
with an ecclesiastic and the painter,
in his picture gallery at Brussels,
of which Teniers was the superin
tendent : Teniers. " The imitation
of the different masters in the various
pictures is very happy." Landscape :
Gaspar Poussin. Landscape : Swan-
eveldt. Mouth of a cavern, looking
out into the country : Old Teniers.
View of Scheveling, where Charles II.
embarked on his return to England,
May 24, 1660 : Van Goyen. Portrait
of Thomson, the poet : Hudson.
Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northum
berland painted in 1602, when he
was serving in the Low Country wars :
Vansomer. Prince Rupert : Varelst.
Portrait of Brughel, the artist (" Vel
vet Brughel ") : Vandyck.
(2) Square Room. — Portrait of
Tintoretto, by himself. Philip II. of
Spain : Sir Antonio More. Male por
trait : Titian. Portrait of Philippe
le Bel, father of the Emperor Charles
V. : School of Van Eyck. Male por
trait : Van Cleef, according to Waa-
gen, but generally attributed to Hol
bein. Portrait of a man : School of
Giovanni Bellini. Catherina Cornaro,
Queen of Cyprus : Titian. Titian's
daughter Lavinia holding a kitten :
Titian. Queen Catherine Parr : Hol
bein. Duke of Brabant and his
daughter Bega, traditional foundress
of the Beguines : Jordaens. Grand

116

Route 23. — Petworth : Pictures.

Sussex.

landscape, Jacob and Laban : Claude
Lorraine. "This picture, which Wool-
lett's masterly engraving has made
universally known, is, in point of
size, freshness of the silvery morning
tones, carefulness of execution, and
delicacy of gradations, one of the
most important works of the middle
period of the master." — Waagen.
Holy Family with Angels : Andrea
del Sarto. Virgin and Child : Sir J.
Reynolds. The young Singer and the
old Connoisseur : Hogarth. Allegory
of events in the reign of Charles I. :
Teniers. Portrait of Woodward the
comedian : Reynolds. Oliver Crom
well : Walker. Josceline Percy, 11th
and last Earl of Northumberland,
with a dog : Sir P. Lely ; very good.
The following are all by Vandyck,
and deserve the most careful atten
tion. Algernon Percy, 10th Earl of
Northumberland, with his Countess
and child : there is a repetition of
this picture at Hatfield, Marquis
of Salisbury's. Sir Charles Percy.
Anne Cavendish. Lady Rich : " The
landscape background is unusually
fine." Mrs. Porter, lady of the bed
chamber to Henrietta Maria ; Henry,
Lord Percy of Alnwick ; Mountjoy
Blount, Earl of Newport ; and Lord
Goring, with his son. Earl of Straf
ford : " The somewhat heavy brown
ish flesh-tones were doubtless true
to life, as they recur in all Vandyck's
portraits of Lord Strafford." Henry
Percy, 9th Earl of Northumberland
(suspected of having been privy to
the Gunpowder Plot, and confined
for 16 years in the Tower) : " This
picture belongs in every respect to
the great masterpieces of Vandyck."
William Prince of Orange (father of
William III. of England), as a child.
(3 ) Marble Hall.— Three unknown
portraits : Holbein. Portrait of him
self : Vandyck. Cervantes : Velas
quez (a very interesting portrait).
Marshal Turenne : Frank Hals. Por
traits of himself and of his wife :
Rembrandt. Guidobaldo I., 3rd Duke
of Urbino, from the Albaui palace

at Urbino : Raffaelle. Cardinal de
Medici, afterwards Pope Leo X. :
Titian ; very fine. Paolo Cespedes,
an eminent Spanish painter, circ.
1600 (artist unknown). Head of a
youth : Bronzino. A stream with a
ferry : Cuyp. Portraits of Macpher-
son (translator of Ossian), Lord North,
and Lady Thomond : Reynolds. Por
trait of Mrs. Woffington the actress :
Hogarth. (4) The Beauty Room — contains
(in panels) the portraits of several
ladies of the Court of Queen Anne,
remarkable for their beauty. They
are — The Countess of Portland ;
Duchess of Ormond ; Duchess of
Devonshire ; Countess of Carlisle ;
Lady Longueville ; Countess of Pem
broke ; and Lady Howe : all by Dahl.
Here are also 2 pictures of Louis
XIV. at Fontainebleau and at Maes
tricht : by Van der Meulen, who at
tended the " Grand Monarch " on his
military expeditions.
(5) White and Gold Room. — Here
are 4 portraits of noble ladies by
Vandyck, "which combine all his
qualities of elegance of conception,
transparency of colour, and spirited
treatment" — Waagen. They are —
1. Lady Anne Carr, Countess of Bed
ford, only daughter of the infamous
Earl and Countess of Somerset, who
were tried for the murder of Sir
Thomas Overbury. She was the
mother of Lord William Russell,
who was beheaded. This picture
is, perhaps, the finest in the room ;
and has been especially praised
by Leslie (Handbook for Painters).
"It is the nicely discriminated in
dividual character of every part —
the freshness and delicacy of his
colour — and the fine treatment of
his masses, that have placed Van
dyck so high among portrait-paint
ers." 2. Lady Dorothy Percy, Coun
tess of Leicester, sister of the Countess
i of Carlisle, and mother of Lady
Dorothy Sidney and Algernon Sid
ney. 3. Lady Lucy Percy, Coun
tess of Carlisle, " called by Bishop

SlTSSEX.

Route 23. — Petworth : Pictures.

117

Warburton ' the Erinnys of her time ;'
and undoubtedly the most enchant
ing woman at the court of Charles.
Celebrated by Voiture, Suckling, and
half the poets of the day, it would
nevertheless have been better for
her had she courted respect more
and admiration less." — Jesse's Court
of the Stuarts. It was this lady's
father, the 9th Earl of Northumber
land, who was confined for so many
years in the tower. 4. Lady Dorothy
Sidney, Countess of Sunderland,
Waller's " Saoharissa," and sister of
Algernon Sidney. Remark also
two pictures by Leslie — Charles II.
saluting Lady Margaret Bellenden
(from ' Old Mortality') ; and Lady
Lucy Percy, Countess of Carhsle,
bringing the pardon to her father
in the Tower. During the Earl's
imprisonment (he was suspected
of having been privy to the Gun
powder Plot) he was allowed free
intercourse with Sir Walter Raleigh,
a prisoner at the same time ; and
Harriot, Hughes, and Warner, three
of the most celebrated mathema
ticians of the age, were the Earl's
constant companions, and were called
" the Earl of Northumberland's three
Magi." These persons are all repre
sented in the picture. Raleigh stands
at the farthest end of the table. The
globe near him was painted from one
at Petworth as old as the reign of
Elizabeth. (6) The Library. — Virgin and
Child : Correggio. " A beautiful pic
ture ; in his delicate, but much broken
tones, like the 'Vierge au Panier'
in the National Gallery " — Waagen.
Early Christians giving instruction :
Pasqualino. " Giving Bread to the
hungry :" Teniers. Portrait of Charles
III., King of Spain and Emperor,
who visited Petworth in 1703 (see
ante) : Kneller. Ferdinand d'Adda,
Papal Nuncio at the Court of James
II. : Kneller. Portrait of Sir Ni
cholas Bacon (father of Lord Bacon),
astat. 68 (artist unknown). New-
njarket Heath in 1724. The Duke

of Somerset's horse "Grey Wynd
ham," has just beaten the Duke of
Devonshire's " Cricket." The Duke
of Somerset, with his hat off, is speak
ing to the Duke of Cumberland :
Wootton. Visit of the Allied Sove
reigns to Petworth in 1814 : Phillips.
In this room also are 8 small pic
tures by Elsheimer, which should be
noticed from the rarity of this artist's
works. (7) Red Library. — Adoration ofthe
Kings : Hieronymus Bosch ( Waagen^;
a remarkable picture, which has been
generally ascribed to Albert Durer.
Travellers attacked by Robbers ;
Louis XIV. and the Dauphin at
Lisle : both by Van der Meulen.
A thunderstorm at sea : Simon de
Vlieger. Battle of the Boyne : Dirk
Maas. Hilly country near Nime
guen : Albert Cuyp. " Of the best
time of the master ; and in com
position, transparency of colour, and
unusual richness of detail, it is
of the highest merit" — Waagen.
Two prelates kneeling : Rubens.
Portrait of Prince Boothby ; a
lady holding a letter ; a lady in
a turban : all three by Reynolds.
Portraits of Sir Robert Shirley and
his wife Teresia. (See for a notice of
the Shirleys of Wiston, Rte. 25.)
These portraits are generally at
tributed to Vandyck, though Dr.
Waagen has ¦ some doubt. " They
appear too feeble in drawing and too
heavy in colour." Bellori, however
(Lives of the Painters), asserts that.
both Sir Robert and his wife were
painted at Rome about 1622 by Van
dyck, then a young man in the ser
vice of Cardinal Bentivoglio ; and
that the pictures were preserved at
Petworth. Other Vandyclcs in this
room are — Frances Howard, Duchess
of Richmond ; and Anne Brett, wife
of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middle
sex — the "bouncing kind of lady
mayoress " commented on by Horace
Walpole at Knole (see Rte. 8).
Lodowick Stuart, Earl of Richmond ;
and. Ralph, Lord Hopton : both by

118

Route 23. — Petworth : Pictures.

Vansomer. Portrait of an unknown
lady in black : Rembrandt. An Ad
miral, said to be Tromp : Van der
Heist. Countess of Egremont :
Gainsborough. Charles II. passing
Whitehall in his carriage : Stoop.
The South- West Room and the
School Room, which are respectively
the 8th and 9th apartments in the
series of. those shown, contain nothing
of general interest.
(10) From these rooms the visitor
passes the Tapestry Hall, which is
now the main entrance hall of the
house. The tapestry hung around
is in excellent condition, and much
more bright and fresh than the date
ascribed to it by the attendant
would lead one to infer.
(11) The Grand Staircase was
painted by Louis Laguerre for Duke
Charles of Somerset. The story
throughout is that of Prometheus,
with the exception of the right-hand
wall, where the Duchess of Somerset
(the Percy heiress) appears on a
triumphal car, surrounded by her
daughters. The paintings are ex
cellent specimens of Laguerre ; but
the visitor should not linger here,
since he has a serious extent of work
before him. For the story of the
great Percy heiress, "three times a
wife and twice a widow before she
was 16," and the cause of the famous
murder of Thynne, of Longleat (her
second husband), by a disappointed
suitor, the Count von Konigsmark,
see Burke's Anecdotes of the Aris
tocracy, vol. i. Her father, Earl
Josceline, died at Turin, aged only 26.
The heiress of all his vast estates was
married at 13 to the young Earl of
Ogle, son of the Duke of Newcastle,
who died within a few months ; then
to Thynne, of Longleat; and, after
his murder, to Charles Seymour, the
"proud" Duke of Somerset. She
died in 1722, aged 55.
(12) Passing through the Vandyck
Room which now contains no Van-
dycks, we reach
(13) The Carved Dining-room. —

The walls and cornices of this room
(60 ft. by 24, and 20 ft. high) are
almost covered with delicate wood-
carvings by Gibbons and Ritson.
" There is one room," wrote Walpole
to Montague (Aug. 1749), "glori
ously flounced all round with whole-
length pictures, with much the finest
carving of Gibbons that ever my eyes
beheld.'1 There are birds absolutely
feathered; and two antique vases
with bas-reliefs as perfect and beau
tiful as if they were carved by a
Grecian master. " Selden, one of
his disciples and assistants," adds
Walpole, in his Anecdotes of Paint
ing " (for what one hand could
execute such plenty of laborious
productions !), lost his life in saving
this carving when the house was
on fire.". Jonathan Ritson, a native
of Cumberland, was employed by
George O'Brien, Earl of Egremont,
and afterwards by Colonel Wyndham,
in the completion of this room, which
he has done in a style only inferior
to that of his celebrated predecessor
(died 1846). Portraits of Gibbons
and of Ritson, both by Clint, hang
at either end of this room, opposite
the windows. Among the pictures
here remark — Charles Seymour,
" the proud Duke " of Somerset ; and
his first wife, Lady Elizabeth Percy :
both by Kneller. Lord and Lady
Seymour of Trowbridge : both by
J arisen. A very fine portrait of Henry
VIII., painted about 1540, by Holbein
(that of Anne Boleyn is a copy). In
the lower panels a series of pictures
by Turner deserve all attention. The
subjects are — Chichester Canal,
sunset ; Petworth Park, sunset ;
Brighton from the sea ; and the
lake in Petworth Park.
(14) Oak Room.— Portrait of Van
dyck : Dobson. Sir Isaac Newton :
Kneller (probably the best portrait
of Newton existing). Lord Chief
Justice Coke : Jansen. John Marquis
of Granby : Reynolds. Portraits of
Colonel Wyndham, of Mrs. Wyndham
aud her sons : Grant. A nobleman

S3USSEX.

itoute 'A'6. — Jr'etwortti : Pictures,

119

at prayers, and two pilgrims : Van
Eyck. Sketch for "The Preaching
of Knox " in Sir Robert Peel's col
lection : Wilkie.
(15) The Picture Gallery is almost
entirely devoted to English art.
There are some antique sculptures,
most of which were collected for the
Earl of Egremont by Gavin Ha
milton. Their interest however is not
great. Of the modern sculpture notice
especially Flax/man's colossal group
of the Archangel Michael piercing
Satan with his spear, and a Shepherd
Boy, by the same master, " one of his
best works " ( Waagen). One of Sir
Richard Westmacott's most striking
works is also here, a bas-relief il
lustrating the passage of Horace :
" Non sine diis animosus infans," &c.
The most important pictures here
are — Children of Charles I : Sir
Peter Lely. Sleeping Venus and
Cupid and Vertumnus and Pomona :
both by Hoppner. A stormy sea :
Calcott. Death of Cardinal Beaufort :
Sir J. Reynolds. Witches and cal
dron ; from Macbeth : Reynolds. Still
water, with a rock and castle .- Wil
son. "One of his choicest pictures."
The Cognoscenti, Patch; and the
Punch-drinkers, a copy from Hogarth.
Iu the last the two red coats disturb
the harmony of the picture. A scene
in Windsor Park : Howard. Musi-
dora : Opie. Landscape, with shep
herd and shepherdess in foreground
(much darkened) ; and another with
cows and sheep, very beautiful :
Gainsborough. View in Westmore
land (Rydal Water) : Copley Fielding.
Storm in the Alps, with avalanche :
Loutherberg. The Invention of Mu
sic : Barry. Edwin (Beattie's Min
strel) : Westall. Rape of Europa :
Hilton. Michael leaving Adam and
Eve, having conducted them out
of Paradise : Phillips. The Infant
Shakespeare nursed by Tragedy and
Comedy (Lady Hamilton) : Romney.
Mirth and Melancholy — portraits of
Lady Hamilton and Mrs. Charlotte

Smith, authoress of the ' Old Manor
House :' Romney. Portraits of Lord
Rodney, Mrs. Musters, General Gar
diner, Lady Craven and son, a lady
with 3 children, and the children of
the Earl of Thanet with a dog : all
by Reynolds. Herodias with the
head of John the Baptist : Fuseli.
Jacob's Dream ; and Contemplation :
by the American artist Allston.
Garrick and his villa at Hampton :
Zoffany and Hodges. Presentation of
Gulliver to the Queen of Brobding-
nag ; and Sancho and the Duchess :
Leslie. Portrait of Alexander Pope :
Richardson. Dedication of the Prin
cess Bridget Plantagenet, daughter
of Edward IV., to the nunnery at
Dartford (an extract from Sandford's
Royal Genealogies is painted on the
book at the foot of the picture ; the
princess died at Dartford about 1517);
Richard III. receiving the young
Princes in the Tower ; and the
Murder of the Princes : all three pic
tures by Northeote. The most im
portant pictures in the Gallery, how
ever, are the Turners, of which there
are many. The Thames and Wind
sor Castle ; the Thames at Wey-
bridge ; the Thames near Windsor
— an evening scene, with men drag
ging a net on shore ; the Thames
from Eton College ; a scene at Tab-
ley in Cheshire — the tower in the
lake ; an evening scene with a pond
surrounded by willows — cattle drink
ing, and men stripping osiers ; a sea-
view, with an Indiaman and a man-of-
war ; Echo and Narcissus ; and Jes
sica^ — should all be carefully noticed.
The Chapel is apparently part of
the old house, and retains its Gothic
fittings. In the house are preserved 2 inte
resting historic relics— the sword of
Hotspur, and a piece of needlework
by Lady Jane Grey.
The tourist should on no account
leave Petworth without visiting the
Park, of which the walls are about
14 m. in circumference. This is
liberally thrown open to the public.

120

Route 24. — Horsham to Arundel.

Sussex.

Pedestrians can enter by the Town
Lodge; carriages by the South
Lodge only. "We were charmed
with the magnificence of the park,"
wrote Walpole, " which is Percy to
the backbone." To a stranger fresh
from the high grounds of Surrey or
the S. Downs, the wide open sweeps
of the Lower Park may at first seem
tame, but his eye will soon take in
the totally distinct character of the
sceneiy ; and what glory the views
can sometimes assume he will have
already seen within in Turner's pic
tures. There is a large piece of
water in front of the house ; grand
old oaks and beech-clumps are scat
tered over the heights and hollows ;
and the whole is well peopled by
herds of deer.
The Upper Park is steeper and
more varied ; and at its highest point
a noble view over the surrounding
country is obtained from the Prospect
Tower, which strangers should by
all means ascend. The ground here
breaks off sharply in a steep, heathery
descent toward the N., a foreground
with which the artist will not quarrel ;
close below lies the ancient " Stag
Park," enclosed and brought into
cultivation by George O'Brien, Earl
of Egremont ; and beyond, the view
stretches away to the steep crests of
Farnhurst and Heyshott, with the
line of Blackdown extending behind
them. S. are the S. Downs, with
Chanctonbury Ring and its tree-
clump conspicuous ; and E. is a wide
range of woodlands, the heart of the
Weald. The Ravens' Clump, so called from
its having been the annual breeding-
place of a pah of those buds (see
Knox's Ornith. Rambles), adjoins
the ivied tower farther E. The
view is nearly the same as that
from the Prospect Tower. The
country lying N. and N.W. of the
park, however — the corner extend
ing toward Hindhead — has an espe
cially attractive look, and will repay
the sketcher's wanderings.

2 m. S. of Petworth is Burton Park,
near which stands the ch., a very
small structure, but containing some
altar-tombs of the 16th cent., and
other memorials of the Gorings, the
former lords.
From Petworth the villa at Bignor,
5 m. S., may be visited. (See Exe. d.
from Chichester, Rte. 21.) Cowdray
and Midhurst (Stat.) (Rte. 26) are
also within easy distance (5 m.).
From Petworth the tourist may
proceed to Chichester along the old
turnpike-road (15 m.) — the same
followed for some way in visiting
Bignor from Chichester (see Rte. 21 j.
For a description of the Petworth or
Sussex marble, of which quarries are
worked in most of the neighbouring
parishes, see Introduction.
The railway continues along the
S. bank of the Rother to Midhurst
Stat., where there is a branch to
the L. and S. W. Rly. at Petersfield
(Rte. 26).

ROUTE 24.
HORSHAM TO ARUNDEL AND CHI
CHESTER, BY PULBOROUGH AND
FORD JUNCTION.
(London, Brighton, and South Coast
Railway. — Mid-Sussex Line.) ( 10J
m. from Pulborough to Ford
Junction.)This rly. descends the valley of
the Arun, crossing it 6 or 7 times.
Leaving Pulborough (Rte. 23) (50
m. from London Bridge), the line,
at 1 m. passes through a ceme
tery and camp, which hpserAyeeii
investigated by Mr. Boyd Dawkins,

(Sussex.

Moute 'Zi. — Jtiaratiam — Amberley.

121

and by him styled Romano-British.
(Suss. Arch. Coll., xvi.) Almost ad
joining, at Hardham, S. of the line,
are the scanty remains of a small
prioryof Augustinian Canons, founded
by Sir William Dawtrey, temp. Hen.
II. The existing arches and mould
ings are Trans.-Norm., but of no
great interest. The rude E. E. ch.,
dedicated to St. Botolph, has many
Roman bricks in its walls ; it has
undergone a non-conservative resto
ration. 1 m. S. of Hardham is Greatham,
where the ancient seat of the Milles
is now a farmhouse, greatly dis
figured by modern adaptations, but
still retaining on the S. front the
arms and crest of the former owners.
The ch. is small and very plain.
54f m. Amberley (Stat.).
1 m. E. are the remains of the
Castle built here by Bp. Rede, temp.
Rich. II. These stand on a low sand
rock, overlooking a marsh called the
"Wild Brook" (brook is generally
used in Sussex to signify a marsh),
from which in summer much turf is
cut, and a profusion of cranberries
gathered, but which is flooded in
winter. The river Arun runs through
it, and here are still caught the
"Amberley trout," one of Fuller's
" four good things" of Sussex. They
are salmon-peel. The Castle formed a
parallelogram, having a square tower
at each corner rising above the walls,
and two round towers (S.) flanking
the gateway, which is not unlike that
of Lewes. This part is sufficiently
picturesque. The N. wall is the
most perfect. On this side was the
chapel, of which there are still some
indications. The present dwelling-
house, in the upper or Green Court,
was built by Bp.' Sherborne 1508.
In one of the apartments, called the
Queen's room, were long preserved
some curious paintings on panel, of
the same character as the series of
bishops in Chichester Cathedral, sup-
[Sussex.]

posed to be the work of one of the
Bernardis, and executed by him
for Bp. Sherborne. Three of these
pictures were exhibited at the So
ciety of Antiquaries in 1864, and
measures have since been taken for
their preservation in the Palace at
Chichester. Amberley appears to
have been an episcopal residence
from at least the Conquest ; but the
present castle only dates from 1379,
and its last occupant was Bp. Sher
borne (d. 1536). In county histories,
&c, it is erroneously said to have
been dismantled by Waller, after the
capture of Arundel in 1643. The
castle is still an appendage to the
see, but has long been under lease.
The little Church of Amberley
(restored) will be found scarcely less
interesting than .the castle, close to
which it stands. It has Norm, and
E. E. portions. The Norm, chancel
arch resembles that of Eartham, but
has an enriched soffete. The S. door
is very rich E. E. Adjoining the
pulpit is an hourglass-stand. In the
S. aisle is a small Brass of John
Wantele, 1424 ; a tabard with short
sleeves, worn over the armour, is
enamelled, vert^ with 3 hon's heads
langued argent. (A very interest
ing paper on Amberley by the Rev.
G. A. Clarkson, will be found in
Suss. Arch. Coll., vol. xvii.)
The best views of the quaint, old-
fashioned village of Amberley, with
its long castle walls and low church-
tower, are gained from the Arundel
road on the farther side of the river,
where the downs form a picturesque
background. Close beyond, the Arun
runs seaward through its gap in the
downs, passing under Bury Hill.
[Bignor (Rte. 21, Excursion (d)
from Chichester) is 3 m. W. from the
Stat, at Amberley.]
[Parham (Lord Zouche), 2 m. E.
of Amberley, is one of the most
a

122

Route 24. — Horsham to Arundel — Parham. Sussex.

interesting places in Sussex. The
house is Elizabethan, with some
modern additions, and, like many
Sussex houses of the same cha
racter, lies close under the Downs,
in a fine old chase, full of the most
picturesque scenery. It was built
by Sir Thomas Palmer, early in the
16th cent., and passed in 1597 to
the family of Bisshopp, represented
by the present Baron Zouche. The
great interest of Parham however
ties in the collections of armour, MSS.,
early printed books, ancient plate and
metal work, enamels, &c, principally
made by the late Lord, the author of
the Monasteries of the Levant. The
library contains about 100 writings
on tablets of stone and wood, or on
rolls, including 1 ancient Egyptian
MS. on linen, and 22 on papyrus ;
others on vellum, &p. ; and about 200
MS. books, mostly fohos on vellum.
These are interesting from their great
antiquity, 4 or 5 being of the 4th
century, and several, in the Greek,
Coptic, and Syriac languages, having
been written before the year 1000.
Some are richly illuminated. Many
are bound in faded velvet, orna
mented with bosses and plates of
silver-gilt. The New Testament in
the Coptic language has been printed
by the Society for Promoting Chris
tian Knowledge, principally from the
MSS. at Parham, which have been
freely tendered to any persons desir
ous of studying them. The early
printed books are about 200 in num
ber. Among these are the Maza
rine, German, and Greek first Bibles ;
the 5 folio editions of Shakspeare ;
the Monte Santo di Dio, the earhest
book containing copperplates ; seve
ral Caxtons, and books printed by
Wynkyn de Worde ; the German and
Latin editions of De Bit's Voyages ;
and a dirty-looking folio ffrom the
Malone and Chalmers- collections),
containing Montaigne's Essays, 1603,
and A World of Wunders, 1607, with
the autograph of W. Shakspeare in
the beginning. Here are also the

first editions of Homer and of Virgil,
on vellum ; &c. &c.
There is also a collection of ancient
gold and silver plate, consisting of
reliquaries, cups, salvers, &c. ; early
enamels, carvings in ivory, and early
metal-work. Some of these are set
with jewels, or are remarkable for
the beauty of their workmanship or
their high antiquity. Of these, be
tween 60 and 70 are ecclesiastical ;
and about 170, things not belonging
to the Church. In the same room
with the collection of works in metal
are several early pictures in dis
temper, by Giotto, Giovanni Bellini,
and others, including an early work
of Raffaelle, when studying under
Perugino at Perugia.
These collections are of course not
generally shown. The rest of the
house and its contents are usually
made accessible to strangers with
great liberality.
The Hall has the arms and quar-
terings of Elizabeth, on the wall, over
the spot where the queen is said to
have dined, in the year 1592, on her
way to Cowdray. Round the walls,
and in true " armoires " (cases for
armour), placed in the window re
cesses and behind the screen, is a
most important collection of armour
of all countries and ages, the greater
part of which however is of the 15th
cent., and came from the desecrated
church of St. Irene at Constantinople,
where it was purchased by the late
Lord Zouche when Mr. Curzon. It
is the armour of the Christian
knights who defended Constantinople
against the Sultan Mahomet II. in
the year 1453. A MS. account of
this purchase, and of the principal
objects of interest in the hall, drawn
up by Mr. Curzon himself, lies on
the great table, and the visitor will
do well to consult it. Remark
especially, in the armoire which
stands in the oriel, some pieces of
armour engraved by Hans Burgmair
for Maximilian of Austria. — A shield

Sussex.

Route 24. — Parham : Pictures.

123

which belonged to the Courtenay
Earl of Devon, who caused so much
jealous feeling between the sisters
Mary and Elizabeth. — A German
executioner's sword which has done
severe duty in its time, and which
may be honoured if not for its deeds,
at least for the result of them, since
the executioner became ennobled after
having officiated a certain number
of times. — A thumb-screw, and curi
ous lock from an old house pulled
down in the High Street at Chiches
ter. — Two antique helmets (one
Etruscan) from a tomb in the Nea
politan territory of Bari, and the
finest yet found, with the exception
of a similar one preserved at Bignor
Park : and a small model of a helmet
found at Castri (Delphi), and pro
bably " the salve of some ingenious
Greek who had vowed a helmet
to Apollo." — A cylindrical Enghsh
helmet of the 12th cent. — Venetian
helmets of the 15th cent., retaining
their original covering of red velvet.
Here is also some rich Mameluke
horse-furniture. In the case behind
the screen is some 15th-cent. Oriental
armour from St. Irene, deserving at
tentive notice, especially a breast
plate which may perhaps have be
longed to the Sultan Mahomet II. ;
and a gauntlet and chamfron of
copper pit, which, from the Arabic
inscriptions on them, appear to have
been made for Saladin. Among the
groups arranged on the walls, re
mark particularly some gilt and em
bossed shields of Itahan workman
ship. In the Small Drawing-room are : a
Holy Family by Pontormo, brought
from Italy by Mr. Curzon; two
Ostades; and four remarkable ena
mels on copper, representing tbe
seasons, by Pierre Courtois, of Li
moges. In a cabinet in this room
are some smaller Eastern curiosities.
In the Dining-room, among others,
are portraits of Lady Frederick
Campbell, the widow of the Lord
Ferrers who was hanged, by Gains

borough; and Lady Wilmot Horton,
with the autograph verses upon her
by Lord Byron, beginning, "She
walks in beauty like the night."
The Large Drawing-room is full
of portraits of very high interest.
Henry IV. (Pourbus). A superb
Vandyck, of Mary Curzon, gover
ness of Charles I.'s children, and
honoured by a public funeral in
Westminster Abbey. The Constable
Bourbon (Titian), a grand portrait
which has been more than once en
graved. Sir Philip Sidney, Lady
Sidney, and the Earl of Leicester, all
three full-lengths, by Zucchero. Of
more uncertain character, but all
worth notice are — the Prince of
Orange, father of William III. ;
Lord Crewe, Bp. of Durham ;
Lord Maltravers, eldest son of the
last Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel ; Earl
of Worcester ; Sir Francis Walsing
ham, father of Lady Sidney ; and
Amhrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick,
elder brother of Leicester. The
three portraits in this room to be
especially remarked, however, are the
Vandyck, the Titian, and the Zuc
chero of the Earl of Leicester. On
either side the fireplace hang two
curious landscapes on copper, by
Marco Ricci; a sketch of St. John,
by Raffaelle; a Holy Family, by
Jacobello Flores, the master of Fra
Angehco ; and on the opposite wall,
a large Holy Family, by Carlo Mar-
ratti. Here are also two very fine
busts, Poppsea (?) and Augustus
Csesar ; the last wonderfully grand.
In the Morning-room is a good
portrait of Lady De la Zouche, by
Angelica Kauffman. The Old Li
brary beyond is hung with Venetian
stamped leather, having Chinese de

in ascending to the Gallery, at the
top of the house (always a great
feature in a true Elizabethan man
sion), remark the small window open
ing into the kitchen, from which the
mistress might occasionally inspect
the progress of operations below.
e 2

124

Route 24. — Horsham to Arundel — Parham.

Sussex.

The Gallery is 158 ft. long, and
contains a series of historical family
pictures, many of which are curious.
Among them are, Queen Elizabeth
at the age of 25. Sir Henry Wootton,
by Cornelius Jansen. Sir William
Harvey of Ickworth, " third husband
of Penelope Darcy, daughter of
Earl Rivers, who promised her 3
suitors, Sir George Trenchard Sir
John Gage, and this Sir William
Harvey, that -she would marry them
all in turn," which she did. Charles
Paget, brother to Lord Paget, con
cerned in the Babington ploi and
concealed for some time, under the
name of Roper, on this coast (possibly
in Parham), whence he escaped, 1586.
A large water-colour drawing, about
8 ft. square, -of the Murder of the
Innocents, by Raffaelle : this formed
one of the hangings in the apartments
of the painter, in his palace in the
Borgo, at Rome. In one recess
is a good collection of china, and
in another a very remarkable as
semblage of " literary antiquities,"
MSS., inkstands, and writing imple
ments, — among them the pencase of
Henry VI., from Waddington Hall,
Yorkshire. On the opposite wall are
some Egyptian antiquities, and others,
brought from the East hy Mr. Cur
zon. The most interesting is an ark
of Egyptian sycamore, from Thebes,
white and powdery, and covered in
front with hieroglyphics, among
which is the cartouche of Amunoph
I., 1550 B.c. The ark, when disco
vered, was filled with small images
jof Egyptian divinities.
On the floor is a Roman pig of
lead from Pulborough (see Rte. 23).
The views from the gallery win
dows, toward the Downs on one side,
and to Petworth Park on the other,
should not be unnoticed.
At the farther end of the gallery
is the chapel. Over the door are
three half-lengths (St. John and two
monks), the work of Andrea, brother
of Luca della Robbia. There is some
good wood-carving in the chapel,

some early stained glass, and a
curious font (Elizabethan) from a
ch. in Oxford. A wooden one re
sembling it exists at Moulton in
Lincolnshire, and one in marble at
St. James's in London.
The church closely adjoins the
house, but contains nothing of great
interest. The font is leaden, and of
the 14th cent.
The forest-like park, or rather
chase, with its thickets of birch and
whitethorn, and its wide branched
elms and oaks, the latter especially
grand and picturesque, is one of the
finest in Sussex. On all sides the
artist will find sylvan pictures of
the highest beauty, with a back
ground of green hill caught here
and there between the rich masses
of foliage. Here, in the centre of a
thick wood of pine and spruce fir,
is one of the few remaining English
heronries. Advancing with the ut
most caution, the visitor may per
haps invade the colony without dis-
turbingit, and hear the "indescribable
half croaking, half hissing sound,"
uttered by the young birds when in
the aet of being fed. The slightest
noise, however, even the snapping of
a stick, will send off the parent birds
at once. " The herons assemble early
in February, and then set about re
pairing their nests ; but the trees are
never entirely deserted during the
winter months, a few birds, probably
some of the more backward of the
preceding season, roosting among
their boughs every night." — A. E.
Knox. They commence laying early
in March, and from the time the
young birds are hatched until late
in the summer, the parent herons
forage for them day and night. The
number of nests has gone on increas
ing of late years, there being now
about 60. The Parham heronry has its
history. Early in the reign of James I.
the ancestral birds were brought by
Lord Leicester's steward from Coity
Castle, in Wales, to Penshurst. There
they continued for more than two

Sussex.

Route 24. — Storrington — Arundel.

125

centuries, and then migrated to
Michel Grove, not far from Arundel,
and about 8 m. S.E. of Parham.
About 1845 Michel Grove was
bought by the Duke of Norfolk, who
pulled down the house and felled
1 or 2 trees in the heronry. The
birds at once commenced their mi
gration, and in three seasons all had
found their way to the Parham woods.
A clump in the vicinity contains a
raven's nest, the only one now known
in this part of the country. An ac
count ofthe migration of these ravens
from Petworth is given in Mr. Knox's
interesting work.
Storrington, IJ m. E. of Parham,
has a good Inn (White Horse), which
will serve for the tourist's head
quarters when exploring the line of
the South Downs between Mid
hurst W. and the Devil's Dyke E.
The ch., not at all remarkable in
itself, has 2 good monuments by
Wesfanacott. Leaving Amberley, the rly. pierces
the Downs by a long tunnel, crosses
the winding Arun repeatedly, and
reaches at
58| m. Aeundel (Stat.), § m.
from the Junct., 2 m. from Ford
Stat, of the Brighton and Ports
mouth Rly.
Arundel (Pop. 2956 ; Inn, Nor
folk Arms), a sleepy town, consists
mainly of two steep streets, mounting
upward from the Arun to the Castle,
one of the ancient fortresses which
guarded the river embouchures all
along this coast ; but its history, its
striking position, and its lines of
Fitzalans and Howards, have invested
it with a more than ordinary interest.
The inhabited portion of the castle
is never shown, the reason for which
may be found in the close vicinity
of so many watering-places. The
keep, far more interesting, is open
to the public on Mondays and
Fridays, with cards of admission
procured at the Norfolk Arms ; and,

better still, the Great Park, with
Home's Tower, a belvedere, is al
ways accessible. Beside the castle,
the objects of interest in Arundel
are the Parish Church, the modern
Rom. Cath. Church, and some scanty
remains of the Hospice, or " Domus
Dei," seen in crossing the bridge at
the foot of the town. The castle
park, and adjoining scenery of the
Downs, are full of beauty. An ex
cursion crossing the country, by
Bignor, to Petworth (about 12 m.)
is to be highly recommended.
Arundel first occurs in the will
of King Alfred ; and a castle here is
mentioned in Domesday. The name
(of course from the river Arun —
probably a British word) has been
ingeniously connected with Hiron-
delle, the traditional name of Bevis
of Hampton's steed, which distin
guished giant was, it is said, long
warder here at the gate ofthe Earls of
Arundel, who built a, tower for him,
and gave him 2 hogsheads of beer
a week, a whole ox, and bread and
mustard in proportion. The earldom
of Arundel, with the castle, was con
ferred after the Conquest on Roger
de Montgomery, who commanded at
Hastings the central body of Breton
and other auxiliaries. The position
of the castle on this southern coast
was an important one ; and the
lands bestowed with it upon Earl
Roger comprised 3 lordships, 10
hundreds with their courts and suits
of service, 18 parks, and 77 manors.
His 2 sons, Hugh and Robert, suc
cessively held Arundel until 1102,
when it was forfeited for treason. It
was next granted in dower to Queen
Adeliza, and passed to her son, W.
de Albini, in 1155. The last Earl,
Hugh de Albini, died in 1243, with
out issue ; and the earldom then
passed to John Fitzalan, the son of
Isabel, sister and co-heir of Earl
Hugh. The Fitzalans held it till
1580, rather more than 3 centuries,
when Henry Fitzalan, last earl, died,
leaving only one surviving daughter,

126

Route 24. — Arundel Castle : Pictures.

Sussex.

Mary, who by her marriage with
Thomas Howard, 4th Duke of Nor
folk, brought the Earldom of Arundel
to that famous house, in which it has
ever since remained. Henry Howard,
son of the 5th Earl of the Howard
family, succeeded to the Dukedom
of Norfolk, and died (7th Duke) in
1701. The present (15th) Duke is
Premier Duke and Earl, and Here
ditary Earl Marshal of England.
Arundel Castle was first besieged
in 1102 by Henry I., to whom it was
surrendered by Robert de Belesme,
son of Roger the first Norman Earl.
In 1139 the Empress Maud was re
ceived here by her step-mother, Ade
liza of Louvain, widow of Henry I.
The castle was at once besieged by
Stephen, and the Empress retired to
Bristol. The third and most im
portant siege was that by the Parlia
mentary troops under Sir W. Waller
in Dec. 1643. This lasted 17 days,
and the castle was finally surren
dered on Jan. 6. " We have taken,"
wrote Waller to Essex, " 17 colours
of foot, and 2 of horse, and 1000
prisoners one with another." During
the siege, artillery played on the
castle from the steeple ofthe chm-ch,
and the greater part of the building
was reduced to a mass of ruin. It
remained neglected and all but de
serted until 1720, when the 8th
Duke of Norfolk repaired some por
tions, in which he occasionally re
sided. The present building, how
ever, was erected by the 10th duke,
who also altered and arranged the
interior, 1791. For the most part,
the duke seems to have been his
own architect. All that can be said
for the result is, that the designs are
not worse than other Gothic of that
period. The entrance is by a modern gate
way, at the top of the steep main
street. On entering, a pretty view
opens over the garden slopes. The
interior is quite inaccessible to ordi
nary tourists.
In the Great Hall there used to

be some modern painted windows,
representing the granting of Magna
Charta, and figures of the Barons
connected with it, but they have
been temporarily removed. The
Library is lined throughout with ma
hogany, and is fitted with bookcases
of the same wood — heavy in spite of
its splendour.
The most remarkable pictures
which the Castle contains are the
following : —
Small North-East Drawing-Room.
— Holbein : portrait in pica, of
Christina, Duchess of Lorraine,
Dowager Duchess of Milan, painted
for Henry VIII., with a view to be
coming acquainted with the lady's
charms, but she refused his offer of
marriage. (A very fine and genuine
picture of Holbein.) Vandyck:
half-length portrait of Charles I.
(Not spirited enough for him, but a
good picture of his time.) Unknown :
portraits of Richard III., of Eliza
beth of York, and Queen Mary. (As
works of Art rather indifferent.)
Grand Drawing-Room. — Holbein :
full-length portraits of Thomas
Howard, 3rd Duke of Norfolk, and
of Mary Fitzalan, his wife, the last of
the house of the Earls of Arundel.
(Good pictures, but only the portrait
of the Duke seems to be an original
of Holbein.) Holbein: full-length
portrait of Thomas Howard 4th
Duke of Norfolk, very good. (A
fine picture, but rather too weak in
the drawing (for instance, the ear) to
be a picture of Holbein of bis last
period, as it necessarily must be after
the dress of the portrait.) Vandyck :
portraits full - length of Henry
Howard, Earl of Arundel and Surrey,
and of Elizabeth Stuart, his wife.
(A fine specimen of the Master.)
James Howard, Lord Mowbray Mal-
travers. (The place of this picture
is too high to give -a judgment about
it.) Van Somee: full-length por
traits of Thomas Howard, Earl of
Arundel, the celebrated collector,
and of Alathea Talbot, his wife.

Sussex.

Arundel Castle : the Keep.

(These pictures may be genuine, but
are second-rate.) .
Morning Roam before Library. —
Vandyck: picture representing the
celebrated antiquary, the Earl of
Arundel, and his Countess Alathea
Talbot, over a globe. (An uncom
monly fine specimen of the Master.)
Guillem Street : full-length por
trait of the celebrated Earl of Surrey,
the poet, under an arch, and leaning
on a broken column, with arms of
Thomas de Brotherton and of France
on each side. (This picture men
tioned by Dallaway (i. 219, note), as
once in the possession of Robert
Walpole, is in every respect very in
teresting. It seems that the very
little known painter, William Street,
must have been an imitator, if not
a pupil, of Holbein.) C. Ketel :
Henry Fitzalan, 22nd Earl of
Arundel. Unknown : half - sized
portrait of the poet Surrey.
Lang Gallery. — Vandyck : Thomas
Howard, Earl of Arundel and his
son, Lord Maltravers. (A fine pic
ture of the Master.) Newelt :
portraits of Frederick Elector Pala
tine, and of Elizabeth, Queen of
Bohemia. Lely : 6th Duke of
Norfolk and Duchess. Unknown :
Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk,
Lord Treasurer of England. (An
old repetition after Holbein.)
State Dining-Room, — Vandyck :
Henry Howard, Lord Mowbray. (A
fine specimen of the Master.)
D'Abtois and Gemtjees : two veiy
large landscapes, with groups of
figures. (Good and genuine speci
mens of the two Masters.)
Persons who'would visit the Keep,
the only part of the Castle which is
shown, must repair to the principal
entrance lodge at the top of the
town, where the porter will receive
their cards of admission ; these are
issued, free, at the Norfolk Arms, on
Mondays and Fridays only.
This lodge is modern, and the
arched, gateway of the inner quad
rangle was commenced in 1809.

127;

Within this, rt., is the modern castle,
and 1. the modern Gothic Chapel, and
a flight of stone steps and narrow
passages lead to the venerable Keep.
The Clock Tower, through which
the ascent to the Keep commences,
may perhaps have some Norm, por
tions in the lower part; but the
upper is much later. It was the
ancient entrance to the inner court,
and abutted on the fosse without.
Passing through this tower, those of
the outer entrance become visible
below. They were the work of
Richard Fitzalan (d. 1302). They
are not accessible to visitors. Each
tower has 4 stages, and souterrains
15 ft. below the fosse, the walls of
which are marked with rude draw
ings and inscriptions ; among them
are the words " I pray to God if hit
him please delyvere us all out of
distress." The Keep is reached by
a long flight of steps. The entrance,
a square tower, with portcullis,
grooves, and maehicoules, is also
attributed to Richard Fitzalan.
The Keep itself, although it ex
hibits some herring-bone masonry,
has no pretensions whatever to
rank as a Saxon building, yet a
date before the Conquest is con
stantly assigned to it. It is circular,
and to all appearance late Norm.
(Comp. the Keep of Windsor.) On
the S.E. side is a circular doorway,
at present inaccessible, with Norm.
moulding. The greater part of the
Keep is faced with Caen stone, and
is surrounded by a deep fosse. It
was subjected to a careful repara
tion in 1 875, when much ivy was of
necessity removed. The walls vary
in thickness from 8 to 10 ft. The
corbels and fireplaces in the wall
within mark the position of the
ancient chambers, which were lighted
from the inner side. In the centre
of the Keep a shaft descends to
a subterranean vault, probably the
store-room of the garrison. "The
roof is pointed, formed of chalk,
and strengthened by ribs of stone ;

128

Route~24. — Arundel Castle: tlie Keep.

Sussex.

the doorcase is distinguished by the
flat label head which is observable
in the windows of the gatehouse,
and the whole is evidently contempo
rary with that structure." — Tierney.
The ramparts are gained by a wind
ing staircase. Immediately over the
entrance to the Keep is the window
of St. Martin's Oratory (Norm.),
commanding a wide view S.E. Ob
serve the funnel-shaped machicoule
in the floor, for pouring heated mis
siles on the heads of assailants. From
the round of the ramparts a good
notion maybe obtained ofthe strength
and position of the castle — and of
the Keep itself, the kernel of the
ancient fortress. The mound is
chiefly artificial; and the height
from the bottom of the fosse is 96 ft.
E., 103 ft. W. The keep rises from
the centre of the castle enclosures, a
somewhat unusual position. The
entire space within the walls is about
5J acres. The general form of the
castle, like that of Windsor, is oblong.
The elevation on which it stands is one
of the extreme spurs of the S. Downs,
hanging over the Arun ; and the tide
anciently flowed nearly up to its
walls. A sharp fall in the hill-side
fortified it naturally N.E. and S.E. ;
a strong wall protected the S. ; and
on the other side was a deep fosse,
with a, double line of wall. The
same position may have successively
seen British and Saxon fortifica
tions; but the great strength and
size of the present castle, and the
care with which it was defended, are
due to the importance of the site in
later times ; when it guarded one
ofthe great Sussex "high roads " to
and from Normandy, and when the
line of the coast was exposed to con
stant ravages from French ships and
pirates. The views from the Keep stretch
away on all sides, and amply repay
the trouble of climbing to it,
seaward across the plain through
which the Arun winds, and along the
wooded sweeps of the upper park.

W. the landscape extends to the Isle
of Wight, and Chichester Cathedral,
the spire rising as a landmark in
the centre. Highdown Hill is con
spicuous S.E., and further N. Burp-
ham with its chalk-pit. The plea
sure-ground lying within the walls,
under the Keep, was formerly a
garden. It is now disposed in Ver
sailles fashion with berceaux and
cabinets de verdure. The barbican
tower at the corner is called Bevis's
Tower. It is perhaps late Norm.,
and has been restored as a sort of
garden-house. There was a covered
way communicating between it and
the Keep. This was the loftiest
of many square towers, open within
like those of Dover, which strength
ened the whole line of the outer
walls. The Keep used to be inhabited by
a colony of owls, chiefly the Bubo
Virginianus, a North American im
ported species. " The fact that
these birds have here not only per
formed the duties of incubation, but
even reared their young occasionally,
the only instance, I believe, on record
of any hird of prey breeding when
deprived of its liberty, would alone
prove their perfect reconciliation to
the very qualified captivity to which
they are subjected." — A. E. Knox.
Their privacy was destroyed by
Excursion trains ; they did not long
survive these turbulent invasions, and
the visitor has to be satisfied now
with the stuffed skins of "Lord
Thurlow " and his mates.
The principal apartments of the
ancient castle were of course situated
below the Keep, in the inner court.
Some portions of these were built
by Richard Fitzalan, present at
Cressy, who applied to this purpose
the ransom of his prisoners. The
Great Hall was built at the same
time. Hollar engraved a view of
it before the siege, when it was
entirely destroyed. Some portions
of the ancient buildings exist in
the S. front and in the E. tower of

Sussex.

Route 24. — Arundel : Church.

129

the present castle. The vault un
der the last is probably of great
antiquity. It served as the castle
dungeon. An apartment in the
Keep is called the " Empress's
Room." The *Parish Church of St. Nicholas
is also interesting, and closely ad
joins the castle. A priory attached
to the Benedictine Abbey of St.
Martin of Seez, in Normandy, was
established in Arundel by the first
Norman Earl, Roger de Mont
gomery, founder also of the parent
abbey. In 1380 Richard Fitzalan,
the fierce opponent of Richard II.,
beheaded on Tower Hill in 1397,
established the College of the Holy
Trinity " for a master and 12 canons."
The earlier priory of Seez became
merged in this : and nearly in the
same year with its foundation Earl
Richard commenced the rebuilding
of the parish church, with which the
chapel of this new college was to
be connected. The present church
therefore dates from about 1380. It
has a central tower, and the college
chapel is at the E. end, beyond the
chancel. N. of the former is the
Lady Chapel, of nearly equal dimen
sions. In the N. aisle of the nave
are fragments of wall paintings, pro
bably coeval with the church ; one
of which represents the Seven Deadly
Sins, the other the Seven Works of
Mercy. The quatrefoil clerestory
windows are unusual, and should be
remarked. In the nave is the ancient
canopied stone pulpit, encircling a
pillar. The church was well restored,
1875, by public subscription. The
choir is furnished with carved stalls i
and a golden altar, and splendid
pavement of tiles, enclosed by iron
grille. A dead brick wall, behind the
altar, erected by the Duke of Nor
folk, separates the church from the
College chapel,' which is the Duke's
property and closed from publie
view. It is large and lofty, and has

evidently been of great magnifi
cence. There are 5 Arundel tombs
in it. The earliest is that in the
centre, upon which are effigies of
Thomas Earl of Arundel (d. 1415),
son of the founder of the college,
and of his Countess, Beatrix, natural
daughter of King John of Portugal.
The horse at the earl's feet is the
Fitzalan cognizance. The countess's
robe is guarded by 2 lapdogs. In
niches round the tomb are 20 figures
of priests, each holding an open
book ; and the rim is encircled by
40 shields, once charged with all the
quarterings of Fitzalan and Portu
gal. This Fitzalan, who had been
deprived of his inheritance by
Richard II., was restored by "Harry
of Bolingbroke." Under the most
easterly of the 3 arches which
divide this from the Lady Chapel,
is the tomb of John Fitzalan, 17th
earl ( d. 1435). His figure is in plate
armour, with a close surcoat and a
collar of SS. An emaciated body
stretched on a shroud lies below.
He was taken prisoner, after receiv
ing a mortal wound, during an at
tack on the Castle of Gerberoi, near
Beauvais, died 13 months after, and
was buried at Beauvais. His body
was afterwards, it appears, redeemed
by his squire, Ralph Eyton, a Shrop
shire gentleman, and placed with his
ancestors ; the mention of the cir
cumstance in Eyton's will led to a
search, under the direction of the
Rev. Mr. Tierney, when the corpse
was found, and satisfactorily iden
tified by the absence of the right
leg, which the earl had lost at Ger
beroi. (8uss.Arch.Coll., xii.). S. ofthe
altar is the very fine chantry tomb
of William, 19th earl (d. 1488), and
of his countess, but the effigies
belonging to it lie on the tomb
opposite — that of Thomas and
William Fitzalan. The dress of the
Countess Joan is especially worth
notice. The wonderful structure on
her head is rare in marble, and does
not occur very frequently in brasses.
g 3

130 Route 24. — Arundel: Church; Rom. Cath. Church. Sussex.
Remark here the twisted pilasters
indicating the approach of the Re
naissance, more completely developed
in the Delawarr tombs at Broad
water and Boxgrove. This " puis-
sante, noble, and virtuous earle " was
the patron of Caxton the printer.
On the N. side, opposite, is the tomb
of Thomas (d. 1524) and William
(d. 1544), successively earls of
Arundel, son and grandson of the
19th earl, William. It has a rich
but much injured canopy. Above
Earl William's Chantry (S. side) is
a tablet in memory of Henry Earl of
Arundel, last of the Fitzalans, who
" pie et suaviter in Domino obdor-
mivit," 1580.
Many of the Howard family are
interred here. Among them are
Earl Philip, whose Life, recording
the history of his persecutions under
Elizabeth, was edited by the 13th
duke, and Thomas, 2nd Howard Earl
of Arundel (d. 1646), the friend of
Evelyn, and the collector of the
Arundelian marbles. His body was
brought hither from Padua, where
he died.
These fine monuments deserve
very careful attention, as illustrating
the changes in art during a period
of a century and a half. Their shat
tered condition is due partly to the
soldiers of Waller's army, who were
quartered in this chapel during the
siege of the castle, and partly to the
removal of the carved roof in 1782,
when the heavy timbers were suf
fered to fall below at random.
On the floor is a brass to the Rev.
M. A. Tierney, the historian of
Arundel, and R. C. Priest there for

many years.
The Lady Chapel is divided from
that of the College by 3 pointed
arches. In the middle is the plain
altar-tomb, in Sussex marble, of
John Fitzalan, 16th earl (d. 1421).
Its brasses have been removed. Ad
joining is a good modern monument
in black marble for Lord Henry
Molyneux Howard, brother of the

late duke. It was executed in Rome.
In this chapel the original stone
altar, with its consecration crosses,
remains. The window above has
some fragments of stained glass,
among which is a figure absurdly
said to be that of " Jockey of Nor
folk." The Brasses still remaining,
and worth notice, are, Sir Adam
Ertham, 1st Master of the College,
1382 ; and a Knight and Lady, 1382.
The exterior windows and parapet
on this side have been restored.
Similar care, it is to be hoped, will
be extended to the interior of both
chapels ; they greatly need it.
Adjoining the churchyard are some
iemains of the college buildings,
originally a quadrangle, one side
of which was formed by the chapel.
The principal gateway, at the S. E.
angle, remains. The college oc
cupied the same site as the more
ancient priory. It had the right
of sanctuary, and the register of
Bishop Rede of Chichester contains
the record of a very severe penance
passed on the constable of the
castle, for having forcibly removed
a prisoner who had escaped from
his dungeon and seized the great
sanctuary-ring attached to the col
lege door.
Not far from the parish ch. is a
building which almost eclipses it,
the R. Cath. Church of St. Philippo
Neri, built by the Duke of Norfolk,
1869-76, at a cost of nearly 100,0002.
(Hanson, architect). It is a hand
some edifice of large proportions, in
the best Dec. Gothic. At the W.
end, under a fine rose-window, are
statues of the 12 Apostles. The
detached tower is to be 275 ft.
high. In the nave of 6 bays the
stone roof, 74 ft. high, is supported
only by the piers. At the W. end is
a carved gallery for organ by Hill.
The E. end is an apse of 9 elegant
pointed arches.
The fragments of the Maison Dim,
at the foot of the town, need not long
delay the tourist. It was founded by

"Sussex. Route 25. — London to Brighton, by Horsham. 131

Earl Richard, builder of the church
and college, about 1380. It provided
for 20 poor men. The building, a
quadrangle, with chapel and refec
tory, was destroyed by Waller's
troops, who were quartered in it.
The adjoining bridge was built from
part of the ruins in 1742. The whole
seems to have been of chalk.
The Ducal Dairy, with ecclesiasti
cal-looking farm-buildings attached,
is about i m. from the town, and was
built in 1847. It is pleasant enough
in itself, with white and blue tiles
and a fountain, but is not worth a
special visit. The stranger will do
better to devote his time to the Park
(open to the public). A gate opens
into it, a short distance beyond the
R. C. Ch. and dairy, and close to
Swanbourne Lake, a reed-grown
piece of water, deep sunk amid the
wooded chalk hills. From the
higher end of the lake is a fine view
of the castle. The best point here,
however, and nearly that from wliich
Turner's beautiful drawing was
made (Rivers of England ; now in the
National Collection), is from the brow
of the hill N. of the " Copyhold,"
nearly the highest part of the park.
The Castle rises in the middle dis
tance, oak and beech woods sweep
down over the heights to the lake
below, and far off the sea fringes the
wide landscape, rich with homesteads
andcattle-dottedmeadows. The park
contains about 1100 acres, and has
" good store of harts." The country
beyond opens to the high ground over
Bignor and Sutton (Rte. 21, Excur
sion (d) from Chichester— Bignor),
whence the grand views over the
Weald, N., are perhaps unrivalled in
the south of England. At North Stoke,
on the Arun (near the Amberley stat.),
visible from this part of the park,
an ancient British canoe, made from
a hollowed oaken trunk, and now in
the British Museum, was discovered
in 1834, 6 ft. below the level of the
soil, and 150 yds. from the river.
A second canoe was found in 1857,

at Warningcamp, 1 m. from South
Stoke, in widening a ditch, locally
called a " rife," leading to the Arun.
Like the other, it is the hollowed
trunk of an oak, with insertions at
the edge, forming seats for 3 men.
The beds of the upper, or white
chalk, with flints, form the hills on
either side of the Arun vale, above
Arundel. In many places they
abound in fossils, especially about
Burpham (2J m. NJE. of Arundel),
and in the quarries at the foot of
Bury Hill, near Houghton Bridge.
The river Arun is crossed to reach
60} m. Foed Junction (Rte. 21).
on the Railways to Brighton E. ;
Littlehampton S. ; and Chichester
and Portsmouth W.

ROUTE 25.
LONDON TO SHOREHAM AND BRIGH
TON, BY EPSOM, DORKING, HORS
HAM, HENFIELD, AND- STEYNING.
(London,. Brighton, and South Coast
Railway. — Horsham and Dorking
Line.)The rly. by Epsom and Dorking
to Horsham is described in Hand
book for Surrey.
From Three Bridges Stat, to Hors
ham is described Rte. 23 (ante).
20 J m. from Horsham to Shoreham.
This branch runs nearly parallel
with the main line from London to
Brighton, at an average distance of
8 m. westward. In connexion with
the line to Guildford (Rte. 23), it

132 Route 25. — London to Brighton — Knepp Castle. Sussex.
rapes of Sussex, and held by the
powerful Braose family; from this
castle they had the command of
all the adjoining forest district,
with its "store of harts." A great
establishment of men and dogs was
kept here by them during the reign
of John ; who, after the forfeiture of
William de Braose, seized the castle,
and resided here frequently (1206-
15). The remaining wall is part of
the keep tower, and shows Norm.
window and door arches. The manor
has always formed a part of the De
Braose Honour of Bramber.

places the S. coast in communication
with the Midland and Northern dis
tricts, without the need of passing
through Loudon.
4£ m. Southwater (Stat.).
Southwater(= South- Walder) is a
pretty village, with a new district ch.
8 m. West Grinstead (Stat.).
The Church has some Norm.
portions, and a wooden porch (Dec.)
well deserving attention. In the
Burrell chantry are two interesting
Brasses: Philippa Lady Halsham
(d. 1395, but the brass engraved circ.
1440, Haines), one of the heiresses of
David de Strabolgie, Earl of Athol e ;
and Hugo Halsham and his wife,
1441. The Rysbrach monument for
Wm. Poulett and his wife (d. 1746)
need not be greatly admired. The
sarcophagus of Sir Wm. Burrell (d.
1796), whose collections for the hist.
of Sussex (now in the Brit. Mus.)
have greatly aided all topographers
since his time, is by Flaxman.
The present house of West Grin
stead (Sir W. Burrell, Bt„ M.P.), of
nondescript Gothic, dates from 1806,
when it was erected by Walter
Burrell, Esq. It succeeded an an
cient mansion, long the property of
the Shirleys, and afterwards of the
Caryls, at which Pope was a frequent
visitor. The Park is finely wooded
and commands extensive views. A
grand old oak is pointed out in it,
under which, says tradition, Pope
delighted to sit ; and whose branches
may have heard the first murmured
music of the ' Rape of the Lock,'
which was founded on an incident
which occurred here, the poem being
composed at the suggestion of Pope's
host: —
" This verse to Caryl, muse, is due !
This, e'en Belinda may vouchsafe to view."
About 1 m. W. rises the solitary
fragment of Knepp Castle (Cncep,
A.-S., a hillock), one of the six great
feudal fortresses defending the six

J m. from the ruin is the modern
castle of Knepp (Sir Percy Burrell,
Bart.), built by its late owner, Sir
Charles Burrell, whose family became
proprietors of Knepp toward the
end of the last century. The house
(which is not generally shown) con
tains an important gallery of histori
cal portraits ; the most interesting
being eight by Holbein : —
1. Anne of Cleves (engraved in
Harding) ; 2. Cromwell, Earl of
Essex (engraved in Harding) ; 3.
Edward Stafford, Duke of Bucking
ham (engraved hy Hollar) ; 4. Sir
Henry Guldeford (engraved by Hol
lar) ; 5. Lady Guldeford (Hollar);
6. Sir Richard Rich, Chancellor to
Edward VI. ; 7. Egidius, the " Sa
vant " employed by Francis I. to visit
the East ; and, 8. an unknown female
portrait. In a lozenge are these
arms — three lions gules, crowned or.
Others of scarcely less interest are
— Sir Robt. Cotton ( Van Somer) ; this
portrait was engraved by Vertue for
the Society of Antiquaries. Wm.
Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, Chancel
lor to Jamesl. ( Van Somer). Loyens,
Chancellor of Brabant (Philip de
Champagne). Cornelius Van Tromp,
(Frank Hals). A full-length of
Henrietta Maria (Vandyck). Charles
II. (Sir Peter Lely).
The collection contains other pic
tures worthy of notice ; but the por
traits are by far the most interesting

'Sussex. Route 25. — Shipley — Henfield — Steyning.

and important. The greater part of
these, including the six first Holbeins,
were collected by Sir Wm. Burrell,
and are all noticed in Grainger.
The first two were purchased at
Barrett's sale, the last three at that
of the Countess Dowager of Stafford.
The lawn is pleasant ; and the
whole scenery about Knepp deserves
exploration. The largest sheet of
water S. of the Thames is to be seen
here. The Church of Shipley, in which
parish Knepp ties, is Norm., and has
a central tower. It was granted to
the Knights Templars at the begin
ning of the 12th century. The oak
ceiling is flat, and has been painted.
In the chancel is the altar-tomb with
effigy of Sir Thomas Caryl, d. 1616,
which has been restored by Carew.
The church chest contains a Byzan
tine (?) reliquary of wood, enamelled
and gilt ; the subjects being the Cru
cifixion, with angels.
2 m. E. of West Grinstead Stat, is
Cowfold.. The Ch. is Perp. with an
earlier chancel, and in it is the mag
nificent Brass of Thomas Nelond,
Prior of Lewes, d. 1433. The Vir
gin and Child are figured above his
head ; and on either side, St. Pancras,
the patron of his priory, and St.
Thomas of Canterbury. The inscrip
tion seems to have been partly bor
rowed from that on Gundrada's tomb
at Lewes.
10£ m. Partridge Green (Stat.).
At Shermanbury (2 m. E.) stands
the gateway (worth notice) of Ew-
hurst, an old mansion of the Peverels.
It is early Edwardian. Shermanbury
Place (H. Hunt, Esq.) occupies the
site of the Elizabethan house of
the Comber family. The ch., a small
E. E. building, with some good mo
dern painted windows, stands very
near the house.
12 m. Henfield (Stat.).

133

This is a picturesque village on
an eminence, about and in which
the tourist will find some good speci
mens of the old Sussex cottages,
generally built of dark-red bricks,
with massive chimney-shafts. The
Ch. is Perp., and contains 2 Brasses
deserving of notice : Thos. Bysshopp,
Esq., 1559 ; and Mrs. Ann Ken-
wellmersh, 1633, and her grand
son Meneleb Rainsford, 1627. The
latter is remarkable for the cos
tume of the lady, who bears a
feather fan in her hand, but still
more for the strange epitaph on the
grandchild (aged 9), which runs
thus : —
* Great Jove hath lost his Ganymede, I know,
Which made him seek an other here helow,
And rinding none, not one like vnto this,
Hath ta'ne him hence into eternall hliss.
Cease then for thy deer Meneleh to weep,
Gods darling was too good for thee to keep,
Bvt rather ioye in this great favour given,
A child is made A Saint in heaven."
The manor of Albourne, 2 m. E.,
was long the property of the family
of Juxon. Albourne Place is tradi
tionally said to have been built by
the Abp., who attended King Charles
on the scaffold. He was himself
born at Chichester.
2 m. S.E. from hence is Newtimber,
where the ch. has some fragments
of early painted glass. Adjoining is
Newtimber Place (C. H. W. Gordon,
Esq.), a moated Ehzabethan house.
For Danny and Wolstanbury Beacon,
see Rte. 17.
16 m. Steyning (Stat.).
Steyning (Pop. 1665— Inn, White
Horse) is a place of great antiquity,
and was a borough until the Reform
Act. The Church of Steyning, now the
main feature of interest in the place,
was originally founded by St. Cuth-
man, who, born in one of the western
counties, was during his youth in the
habit of miraculously guarding his
father's sheep by making a circle

134

Route 25. — London to- Brighton — Steyning. Sussex.

round them, which no enemy could
break through. On his father's death
he travelled E. with his mother,
who was infirm, carrying her on a
sort of barrow. The cord broke,
and Cuthman replaced it by some
elder-twigs ; a party of haymakers
close by ridiculed him, and ever after
a shower fell on that meadow when
the hay was down. The twigs at
last gave way against Steyning ; and
here, after building a hut for his
mother and himself, he constructed a
timbered church, in which he was
buried. The country was covered
with brushwood and thinly inha
bited; but many pilgrims came to
Cuthman's grave, and the town
gradually sprang up round the
church. (See Life of St. Cuthman,
Acta SS., Feb. 4, quoted in Suss.
Arch. Coll.)
The neighbouring palace of the
Saxon kings at Bramber no doubt
gave importance to the settlement.
Ethelwolf, father of Alfred, is said to
have been buried in the ch. of Stey
ning a.d. 858, but his body was after
wards removed to Winchester. The
Confessor granted Steyning to the
Benedictine Abbey of Fecamp in
Normandy, and William confirmed
the grant. A cell existed here nearly
on the site of the present vicarage.
At the suppression of alien priories
(1 Edw. IV., 1461) Steyning was
transferred to the Abbey of Sion.
There were 2 churches at Steyning
at the Domesday survey, but of 1
there are no remains, though the
site is pointed out. Cuthman's church
seems to have been on the site of
that now existing, the position of
which is very accurately described
in the early life of the Saint.
The present church (restored), dedi
cated to St. Nicholas, is no doubt
the work of the Fecamp Benedic
tines, but it is only a fragment.
It is of two periods. The E. arches
of the aisles, and the piers of the E.
tower-arch, are early Norm.; the rest
not earlier than 1150. The chan

cel is modern, with E. E. , east
window. The original plan of the
building seems never to have been
completed (Hussey) ; there was ap
parently an intention of erecting a
central tower; and the last piers
of the nave are partially included
in the wall, as if not originally
meant to cease where they now do.
The present low tower is at the W.
end, and dates from the middle ofthe
16th cent. (Bloxam) ; it is chequer
work of flint and stone. The
nave contains "one of the most
remarkable series of enriched pier-
arches to be met with anywhere."
— Sharpe. Those were, as usual,
carved after erection, portions being
still unfinished. They belong to the
second period (circ. 1150). The
chancel-arch resembles that in the
church of Graville in Normandy,
which also belonged to Fecamp.
(Compare also those at Eartham,
Rte. 21, and Amberley, Rte. 24.)
Several houses in Steyning exhibit
in the mouldings of the woodwork
and window mullions architectural
features of the 15th, 16th, and 17th
cents, not unworthy of notice. The
old gabled house in Church Street
is called the "Brotherhood Hall,"
and was given by William Holland
Alderman of Chichester, for the
purposes of the Grammar School
which he founded here in 1614.
At the Vicarage the wainscot
panelling of the dining-room is orna
mented with arms, devices and in
scriptions of early 16th-cent date;
and in the garden are preserved 2
stones with incised erosses. " The
drawing of the crosses is extremely
rude and archaic. As these stones
were discovered in the foundation
of the western extension of the ch.,
where they must have been de
posited as mere material in the 12th
cent., they may fairly be considered
as belonging , to Saxon times." —
(Suss. Arch. Coll., xvi.)
The tide seems anciently to have

'Sussex.

Route 25. — Wiston Park.

135

risen as high as Steyning, the har
bour of which was known as " Portus
Cuthmanni." It was the highest
and most ancient harbour here ; the
sea having gradually retired, first to
Old and then to New Shoreham.
1 m. E. from Steyning is Beeding,
the Ch. of which was anciently the
priory ch. of Sele, a foundation of
De Braose, lord of Bramber, a.d.
1075. It has been considerably
abridged of its former proportions,
and retains few ancient features
worthy of notice. Much of the
priory buildings remained till late
in the last cent., when they were
pulled down, and the rectory house
erected on the site.
Wiston Park (Rev. John Goring),
1| m. N.W. of Steyning, besides its
historical/interest, commands views
of extreme beauty. The park
itself is very fine and undulating,
and the terrace overlooks the whole
richly wooded valley, E. and W.,
a scene which will not readily be
forgotten. The house, like Parham,
is Elizabethan, a.d. 1576, but has
been greatly altered. The hall, 40
ft. square and 40 ft. high, is veiy
fine, aud has a magnificent wood
roof in the transition style of that
date. The manor long belonged to
a branch of the great Braose family,
from which it passed by marriage
into the hands of the Shirleys, one
of whom, Sir Thomas Shirley, built
the house about 1576. The family
was remarkable in many ways. Sir
Hugh Shirley, the first who settled
in Sussex, was a stanch adherent
of the Red Rose, and one of the 4
knights who, clad in royal armour,
successively encountered and fell
under the arm of Douglas at Shrews
bury, 1403. So Shakespeare —
"Hold up thy head, vile Scot, or thou art
like
Never to hold it up again ! the spirits
Of Shirley, Stafford, Blunt, are in my arms.
K. Ben. IV., Pt. I., act v. sc. i."
His son was present at Agincourt, and

his grandson, Sir Thomas, had by
Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Kempe
of Ollantigh, in Kent, 3 sons, the
famous " Shirley Brothers," whose
adventures were so full of romance,
and appeared so wonderful in that
age, that a play was composed from
them, *' by a trinity of poets, John
Day, William Rowley, and George
Wilkins," 1607, and acted during their
lifetime. Anthony Shirley (b. 1565),
after serving in the Low-Country
wars, and against the Portuguese
settlements on the coast of Africa,
" where," says Fuller, " the rain
did stink as it fell down from the
heavens, and within 6 hours did turn
into maggots," went in 1598 to Per
sia, on a mission, half religious, half
mercantile ; his main object being to
induce the Shah to join the Christian
powers against the Turk. He sailed
from Venice; discovered coffee at
Aleppo, " a drink made of seed that
will soon intoxicate the brain ;" and,
after sundry perils from Turks and
Bedouins, reached Ispahan, where
Abbas Shah created him a " Mirza "
(the first instance of a Christian
receiving an Oriental title), and ap
pointed him ambassador to the courts
of Europe. After a long series of
adventures worthy of an Amadis or
a Palmerin, he died in 1630. Robert
Shirley, his younger brother, had ac
companied him to Persia, where he
remained, having married Teresia,
daughter of a Circassian named Is
mael Khan. He too was sent (or
at least professed to have been sent,
— see, for the whole story, Burke's
Anecdotes of the Aristocracy, vol. i.)
as ambassador back to Europe, and
arrived in Rome wearing the Persian
costume, with a crucifix stuck in his
turban. Thence he returned to Wis
ton with his wife, was well received by
James I., and, after sundry changes,
died at Kazveen in Persia in 1628,
and was buried there under his own
threshold. Teresia ended her life in
a Roman nunnery. In 1622 Van
dyck painted at Rome the portraits

136 Route 25. — London to Brighton — Bramber. Sussex.
Downs; and the remains of a
Roman bridge have been dis
covered on it here,' at Bramber.
After the Conquest, the castle and
barony were granted to William de
Braose, and it was one of the princi
pal strongholds of that great family.
As Arundel guarded the entrance to
the Arun, so this watched over the
estuary of the river Adur. The view
from the keep-mound is very striking.
Like Amberley, the Castle stands on
a sort of promontory overlooking the
marshes and tree-dotted meadows of
the Adur. The sea is visible S., whilst
the hills stretch away E. and W. in
rounded outlines of extreme beauty.
Remark the steep escarpment of the
chalk hills W., rising direct from the
plain, like sea-cliffs, as they no doubt
once were. (See Lyell, Geology ; and
Introduction.) Of the castle build
ing there are few remains. It formed
an irregular parallelogram 560 ft. by
270 ft., surrounded by a strong wall
of flint and rubble, parts of which
remains, and encircled by a very deep
moat, now filled with trees. The
banks are famous for "wealth" of
primroses. A solitary fragment of
a lofty barbican tower lifts itself
within, "like a tall tombstone of
the mighty race of Braose." In it
is a Norm, window with herring
bone masonry. From the Braoses
the castle passed by marriage to the
Mowbrays, and it has from them
descended to the Duke of Norfolk,
the present owner ; it is in the occu
pation of the landlord of the " White
Horse," but admission is free. The
best view of the ruins is obtained
from the footpath between the rly.
stat. and Steyning.

of Robert Shirley and his wife, now
at Petworth. Thomas, the eldest of
the 3 brothers, after a life full of
changes, sold Wiston, and died in
the Isle of Wight. Their story is a
curious example of the love of wan
dering and adventure which then
prevailed in England as elsewhere,
and is not without a dash of Spanish
knight-errantry. No Shirley relics now exist in the
house at Wiston, but the Dec. Church
contains someinterestingmonuments.
That of Sir Richard Shirley (died
1540) exhibits him standing on a rock
between his 2 wives, with his hands
stretched towards a dove, represent
ing the Holy Spirit. At the sides
are 2 brackets for figures of patron
saints. Thedetails are Italian. (Com
pare the monuments at Selsey and
West Hampnett, Rte. 21.) Against
the wall is the monument of Sir Thos.
Shirley, father of the brothers, and
builder of Wiston. Under an arch,
on the N. side, is a very interesting
effigy of a child in a close vest, pro
bably a son of Sir John de Braose
(died 1426).' Sir John's own fine
Brass, inlaid, and powdered all over
with the words " Jesu Mercy," lies
on the floor of the S. chapel". The
adjustment of the sword is unusual.
All six shields have the arms of
Braose. " Es testis Christe, quod non
jacet lapis iste corpus ut ornetur, sed
spiritus ut memoretur," runs its in
scription, one commonly repeated in
the brasses of this period.
16f m. Bramber (Stat.). Inn.
This small village stands on an
alluvial flat, once a creek of the sea,
at the foot of steep chalk cliff.
The advantage and importance
of the haven no doubt induced the
Saxon kings to establish a fortress
at Bramber (Sax. Brymmburh, a
fortified hill), possibly on the site
of a Roman castellum (Mr. Roach
Smith places Partus Adurni here),
for an ancient road passed from
Dover to Winchester, under the

The ivy-clad Church, dedicated to
St. Nicholas, nestles under the castle-
wall, S. It is Norm, (originally cruci
form), but the nave and tower only
remain, the chancel and transepts
having been demolished. Bramber,
though a mere village (present Pop.
173), returned two M.P.s until the

Sussex.

Route 26. — Godalming to Chichester.

137

time of the Reform Act, and was
somewhat famous for its contested
elections. "In 1768 a memorable
contest took place, 18 polling one
way, and 16 another, and one of the
tenants of the miserable cottages
refused 1000J. for his vote." — (Suss.
Arch. Coll., xvi.)
20| m. Shoeeham Junction (Rte.
21). Railways to Brighton E., to
Chichester and Portsmouth W.

A cross road from Pulborough (Rte.
24) passes along the back of the
South Downs, through Storrington
and Steyning to Shoreham. This
road, with the excursions to be made
from it, is highly to be recommended,
by way of change from the rly., as
wellifor its picturesque scenery as
for its historical interest.
Hardham, Greatham, and Parham
(Rte. 24) will of course be visited.
The villages of Sullington anAWash-
ington (restored church) E. of Stor
rington, are picturesque, but need
not delay the tourist ; but the next
parish, Wiston, contains some of the
finest Down scenery, particularly
Chanctonbury Ring, which, with its
dark crown of trees, is a landmark
for half Sussex. It is the third
height of the S. Downs (see Intro
duction), being 814 feet above sea
mark. The intrenchment here is
circular, and may be of British origin,
but Roman coins have been found ;
and the Roman road, running E. and
W., passed not far from the foot of
the hill. The views in all directions
from this camp are grand and pano
ramic, though the scenery is perhaps
not so manageable for the artist as
that among the hills farther E., above
Bignor and Sutton. After passing
Steyning (ante) the road to Shoreham
runs parallel with the Adur river
through the Shoreham Gap, one of

the transverse valleys of the chalk.
"These cross fractures, which have
become river-channels, remarkably
correspond on either side of the
Weald N. and S. Thus the defiles
of the Wey in the N. Downs, and of
the Arun in the S., seem to coincide
in direction." — Lyell. The trans
verse fissures were probably caused
" by the intensity of the up-heaving
force toward the centre of the Weald"
during the elevation of the Forest
ridge. (See Introd.) Although the
Adur here by no means recalls the
sunshine of its Pyrenean namesake
(both rivers retain the Celtic Dwr,
water), it is the haunt of many rare
water-birds. " The river above Shore
ham, as far as Beeding Levels, during
the spring and autumnal months,
will generally repay the patient ob
server, or the persevering gunner,
who explores its muddy banks" (A.
E. Knox) ; and " the reed warbler
and its beautiful nest may be found
during the month of May in the
reedy ditches' a little to the W. of
the old wooden bridge, about a mile
above Shoreham." (Id.) When the
Gap is passed, the College at Lancing
(Rte. 21) is a very conspicuous ob
ject on W.
Shoreham Junct. Stat, Rte. 21.

ROUTE 26.
GODALMING TO CHICHESTER, BY
PETWORTH AND MIDHURST.
The Direct Portsmouth Rly. passes
through Godalming and Witley (see
Handbook for Surrey and Hants),
and gives (by a branch) access to

138 Route 26. — Godalming to Chichester — The Weald. Sussex.
ancient roads. The country here is
still covered with wood, and little
grain except oats is produced.
2 m. beyond Chiddingfold we enter
Sussex. On E. are the undulating
hills and woods of Shillinglee Park
(Earl of Winterton), within which is
a lake covering about70 acres. There
is here some fine forest scenery. 3 m.
beyond, on W., is Lurgashall, where
the ch. has some Norm, if noi Saxon
portions. The rest of the road has
no special interest until we reach
Petworth, the long park wall of which
it skirts for about two miles.
(For Petworth, see Rte. 23.)
The road from Petworth to Mid
hurst (5 m.) keeps near the N. bank
of the Rother, and commands a fine
view of the S. Downs, about 3 m.
distant, the whole way; the Rail
way follows the S. bank of the
stream. The little church of Tit-
lington, just clear of the wall of
Petworth Park, contains some Dec.
portions. 1 i m. from Midhurst the road enters
Cowdray Park, which it crosses. The
park scenery here is of the finest
and most " rememberable " kind.
(See post.) Outside the second park
gate is the Church of Easebourne,
Perp. in character, and originally
attached to a small house of Benedic
tine nuns, founded by John de Bohun,
temp. Hen. III. Of this there are
some remains adjoining : the refectory
is now a bam ; and the dormitory
and some other portions may be
traced. The S. aisle of the ch., now
ruinous, served as the nuns' chapel.
In the chancel is a recumbent effigy
in alabaster of Sir David Owen (d.
1540), a natural son of Owen Tudor,
and in high favour with Henry VIII.
The effigy, judging from the armour,
was made during Sir David's lifetime.
He married an heiress of the Bohuns,
who were also buried here. Here
is also the marble monument of
Lord Montague (d. 1592), the "great

Midhurst, from which town a line
is to be made to Chichester. But if
it be wished to see the Weald of
Sussex, the journey by road is much
to be preferred.
(a) A very interesting route for
the pedestrian would be to proceed
from Witley to Midhurst, thence
to Petworth by Cowdray, and cross
Bury Hill to Chichester, visiting
Bignor by the way. For this route
from Petworth to Chichester, see
Rte. 21, Exe. (d) to Bignor from
Chichester. 3 m. S.E. of Witley is Chiddingfold,
one of a group of folds ; ancient
cattle enclosures in the midst of the
woodlands, which have grown into
parishes ; as Aldfold and Dunsfold
(Handbook for Surrey). The deep
clay is here thickly covered with
wood and the green, branch-shaded
lanes are enlivened by the venerable
Red Riding-hood cloak, still much
worn throughout the district.
We are now fairly in the Weald,
where the numerous old timbered
farms and manor-houses constantly
remind us of the ancient wealth of
oak forest ; the solitudes of which,
in their turn, have preserved many
yeomen families, representatives of
Chaucer's Franklin, throughout long
generations. The Entyknapps of
Pockford, in this parish, are said
to possess a Saxon charter relating
to their farm, which has been their
property ever since the Conquest :
and the families of Wood and Child
are of almost equal antiquity. The
famous ironstone of the Weald here
begins to appear, and there are re
mains of furnaces in the S. part of
the parish. The hard Carstone or
Clinkers, connected with this iron
rock, is much used for road-making.
Hence the excellence of the high
ways throughout this part of Surrey
and Sussex, strongly contrasting with
the "deep clay and mire" of the

Sussex. Route 26. — Midhurst — Cowdray : Ruins of. 139

Roman Catholic Lord," who with
his sons and grandson, " a yonge child
very comelie, seated on horse-back,"
came attended by 200 horse to join
Elizabeth at Tilbury ; a piece of
loyalty which her Majesty never
forgot. This monument has been
removed here from the chm-ch at
Midhurst. The old town of Midhurst (Stat.)
(Pop. of the parish 1465, of the
Parliamentary borough 6753 — Inns:
Angel, Eagle, New Inn) stands on
an eminence above the Rother, navi
gable from this point to its junc
tion with the Arun at Pulborough.
The "Schola Grammaticalis," which
catches the eye on entering, was
founded by Gilbert Hannam in 1672,
and has enjoyed considerable repu
tation. Sir Charles Lyell the geolo
gist, and Richd. Cobden, are among
the most eminent of its pupils. The
church, Perp., was chiefly remarkable
for the great Montague tomb, which
is now at Easebourne. On St. Anne's
Hill, at the back of the town, may
be traced the foundations of the old
Castle of the Bohuns.
Railways : to Petworth (Rte. 23) ;
to Chichester, in progress (ante) ; io
Petersfield (post).
The ruins of Cowdray, of which
the tourist will already have caught
a glimpse, 1., in passing through the
park, must not be left unvisited.
Cowdray remained in the hands of
the Bohuns until the reign of Henry
VIII., when their heiress brought it
to Sir David Owen. It afterwards
passed to Sir Anthony Browne, " great
standardbearer of England," created
Viscount Montague in 1554, the first
of 8 viscounts in regular succession.
In 1843 it was sold to the Earl of
Egmont, the present possessor, who
has a modern cottage residence in
the park, not far from the ruins, the
offices of which are occupied as a
dairy farm.

The grand old house of Cowdray
was entirely destroyed by an acci
dental fire in 1793, and in the follow
ing month the last Lord Montague,
still ignorant of his loss in England,
was drowned in attempting to shooi
the rapids of the Rhine at Lauffen,
some way below Schaffhausen. The
house, like Co theie and Haddon Hall,
was antique in all its fittings and
" plenishing." " Sir," said Dr. John
son, when he visited it from Brighton,
" I should like to stay here four-
and-twehty hours. We see here how
our ancestors lived." It was built
by Sir William Fitzwilliam, Earl of
Southampton (whose mother after
wards married Sir A. Browne), about
1530, and was filled with treasures
of every description ; amongst them
a series of pictures said to have been
by Holbein, and somemost interesting
relics from Battle Abbey. At the
upper end of the " Buck Hall " was
a stag carved in wood, bearing
shields with the arms of England
and her standard-bearer ; and round
the hall were 10 others, " large as
life, standing, lying, and sitting, with
small banners of arms supported by
their feet."
Of all this splendour the only
traces remaining are the ivy-covered
ruins, approached from the town
through wide iron gates, opening
on a straight causeway raised above
the meadows, and passing over the
"little Rother," which flows along
the entire W. front. The house was
quadrangular. Over the archway of
the principal front are the arms of
Sir A. Browne. In the court beyond
was a stately fountain, which is now at
Woolbeding. The " Buck Hall " was
immediately opposite, and half-burnt
portions of the stags that decorated
it still lie in the quadrangle. E. of
the hall was the chapel, of which the
window traceries are tolerably pre
served. Traces of the wall-paintings
that decorated some of the principal
apartments are still visible.
Although the house at Cowdray

140 Route 26. — Godalming to Chichestei — Farnhurst. Sussex.
will no longer show us " how our fore
fathers lived," we mayget a very toler
able picture from the ' Book of Orders
and Rules,' established by Anthony
Lord Montague for the direction of
his household aud family here, a.d.
1595. This very curious MS. was
saved from the fire, and has been
printed in the Suss. Arch. Coll., vii.
Time, which has mouldered these
ruins into beauty, has dealt still
more gently with the magnificent
chestnuts and limes of the " Close
Walks," the scene of Queen Eliza
beth's feastings on the occasion of
her visit to Lord Montague of the
"Armada" in 1591. Here it was
that her Majesty, armed with a cross
bow, killed " three or four deer" as
they were driven past her sylvan
bower, whilst the Countess of Kil-
dare, her attendant, very judiciously
brought down only one. The park,
full of heights and hollows and
thickly carpeted with fern, deserves
all possible exploration.

About li m. S. E. of Midhurst is
Dunford House, on the estate pre
sented to Mr. Cohden by the sup
porters of the Anti-Corn-Law League.
It is a plain white house, with a
prospect tower, and is very near the
farmhouse in which he was born.
He died in London, April 2, 1865,
and was buried beside his son in the
ch.-yard of West Lavington (post).

(b) If the tourist should prefer a
more direct road to Midhurst than
the one already described, he will do
well to start from Haslemere (see
Handbook for Surrey), where a
conveyance, if needed, can readily
be obtained. The distance is 7 m.,
or 10 m. if we make a detour to
Shulbrede. The road to Petworth
is varied and beautiful ; the chief
feature being the wooded hill of
Blackdown, on the slope of which
the Poet-Laureate has built himself
a villa. The view from the top of

Blackdown extends over the Weald
to the N. and S. Downs as far as
Beachy Head.
At 2 m. from Haslemere we must
turn off from the road in search of
the ruins of Sliulhrede Priory ; they
lie in a small valley, surrounded with
wood, and not to be got at without
some difficulty. The Priory was
founded by Sir Ralph de Arderne
early in the 13th cent, for five Augus
tinian canons, and was suppressed by
the Bp. of Chichester, " not without
an eye to his own advantage," ten
years before the visitation of Crom
well's commissioners. The only
portion of interest that remains is
the Prior's chamber, a large room
approached by a stone staircase.
The walls are covered with rude
paintings of more than one period.
Among them is the Nativity, where
the Virgin and Child are surrounded
by different animals, whose voices
are made to express articulate sounds.
A label proceeding from the mouth
of a cock in the act of crowing, bears
the words "Christus natus est." A
duck demands "Quando? quando?"
and a raven makes answer " In hae
nocte, in hac nocte." The cow bellows
"Ubi? ubi?" and the lamb bleats
" Bethlem, Bethlem." Other paint
ings, showing the dress of Elizabeth's
time, and the arms and motto of
James I., must have been added after
the Dissolution.
Approaching Farnhurst (4 m.) the
scenery is wild and varied, and from
Henley Hill (about half-way) the
view is very fine. The ch. at Farn
hurst is small and E. E. In an oak
wood, E. of the road, at 5 m., are the
remains, now a mere heap, of Verdley
Castle, " known only to those that
hunt the marten cat," says Camden,
and still remote and solitary. It
was a hunting- tower attached to the
lordship of Midhurst ; but all archi
tectural features were destroyed some
years since, when the materials of

Sussex.

Route 26. — Trotton — West Lavington.

141

the walls were used for road-making.
At 7 m. we reach Midhurst.

[The rly. from Midhurst to Peters-
field has stations at Elstead and Ro-
gate. Near Elstead is Beacon Hill,
commanding a fine view of the coun
try S., and at Rogate is a small
Norm. ch. Dangstein (R. H. Nevill,
Esq.), formerly called Lone Beach, in
the parish of Turwick, which ad
joins Rogate, is famous for its con
servatories and ferneries, which de
serve a visit.
Taking the road to Petersfield,
we reach at 1 m. Woolbeding,
where the stained glass in the chan
cel was removed from the Priory of
Mottisfont in Hampshire. At 3 m.
we cross the Rother, and reach Trot
ton, an ancient manor of the Camoys
family. The Church, dedicated to
St. George of England, was rebuilt
about 1400 by Thomas Lord Camoys,
who commanded the left wing of the
Enghsh at Agincourt, and for his
bravery was created Knight of the
Garter — as was the bridge over the
Rother, close adjoining. Inthechancel
are two very fine Brasses ; the first, of
Marguerite de Camoys (c. 1310), and
probably the earliest brass of a lady
that exists in England ; the second
is on the altar-tomb of the founder
and his wife, c. 1419, which stands
in the centre of the chancel. The
Elizabeth Lady Camoys, who is re
presented here by the side of her
lord, is no other than the widow
of Hotspur, the " gentle Kate" of
Shakespeare, who has erred at all
events in her name, however truly
he may have depicted the shrewd
ness of her wit. It was no doubt
Petworth which brought her into
the neighbourhood of Lord Camoys,
whom she married after the death
of Percy. She was the daughter of
Edm. Mortimer, Earl of March. Her
son, Sir Richd. Camoys, stands (a
small effigy) beside his mother. At
Woolbeding, in the house of Lord

Robt. Spencer, Fox and the leading
Whigs used to assemble. In this
parish Otway the dramatist was born,
March 3, 1651, whilst his father was
curate here. Collins thus alludes
to him in his ' Ode to Pity : ' —
" But wherefore need I wander wide
To old Hissus' distant side,
Deserted stream and mute ?
Wild Aran too has heard thy strains,
And Echo, midst my native plains,
Been soothed by Pity's lute."
A recording tablet was set up to
him in the ch. here in 1861.
Passing Terwick, we reach at 6
m. Rogate, in which parish Dureford
Abbey, a small house of Premon-
stratensian canons, was founded by
Henry Hoese (Hosatus — Hussey)
about 1169. Some portions of the
ancient building have been worked
into the present dwelling-house.
Near Haben bridge, on an eminence.
above the Arun, about \ m. S. from
the village of Rogate, are vestiges
of a tower within a fosse : probably
erected by the Camoys, ancient lords
of the manor. 2 m. beyond Rogate
we pass into Hampshire.]

Turning S. from Midhurst for
Chichester, we first reach (though
slightly off the road) the small Dec.
church of West Lavington (or more
properly St. Mary Woollavington).
The Church, parsonage, and schools
were built by Butterfield in 1850,
and they afford an example of cheap
local materials being employed with
excellent effect. They occupy the
crest of a bold hill looking across to
the S. Downs, which is cut into ter
races to afford sufficient space, each
level being separated from the others
by wall-like hedges of clipped firs.
The church has a good painted E.
window, and an altar-screen and font
of Petworth marble ; the pillars are
of chalk, the capitals most tastefully
carved to represent foliage, naturally

142 Route 26. — Godalming to Chichestei — Lavington. Sussex.

and not conventionally treated. The
grave of Mr. Cobden is near the S. E.
end of the ch.-yard.
Regaining the main road, IJ m. S.
of Midhurst, we reach at 3 m. Cocking,
where the archaeologist may search
for the remains of a cell, belonging
first to the Abbey of Seez, and after
wards to the College of Arundel. At
a short distance N.E., on the edge
of Heyshott Down, are traces of a
British camp.
From Cocking the tourist may
proceed along the tine of the S.
Downs either W. into Hampshire
(see Handbook for Hants), or along
the E. heights by Graffham and
Lavington toward Bignor, Amberley,
or Arundel (Rte. 24). This tine
will give hiTn some of the very
finest scenery in the South Downs :
but he should be told that he
will find but indifferent accommo
dation at the primitive village
inns. The view (northward) above
the village of Graffham (about
3 m. E. of Cocking) is very grand
and panoramic. At Lavington (1 m.
E. of Graffham) is the family seat
of the late Bishop Wilberforce, of
Oxford, where there is a good
Pinetum. The Bp. was buried here,
and the ch. has been restored in his
memory. " The dark hanging woods
of Lavington clothe the steep hills
on one side, while on the other
their natural forms are varied by
smaller clumps of beech and juniper.
Below, is the long and picturesque
valley of the Rother, extending
from the borders of Hampshire as
far as the eye can reach, and varied
with wild heathery commons, ever
green woods, brown copses, and
cultivated fields. Immediately op
posite is the elevated ridge of the
lower green sandstone, the S. boun
dary of the Weald of W. Sussex, and
far in the distance the blue outline
of the Surrey Downs. (A. E. Knox,
Game Birds and Wild Fowl.) The
explosion of the powder-mills at

Hounslow, March 11, 1850 (50 m. in
a direct line), made all the pheasants
in the Lavington woods crow at once.
Bignor (Rte. 21 ; Exe. d) lies 3 m.
S.E., and the rly. stat. at Amberley
3 m. further in the same direction
(Rte. 24).
Extensive woods stretch away on
either side of the road beyond Cock
ing. The Church of Singleton, 5J m.,
is Perp., except the tower, which is
Norm., and may deserve a visit. It
has been well restored. At West
Dean, 6 m., in the midst of the low
rounded hills and coppices which
belong to this part of Sussex, is West
Dean House (F. Bowen Esq.), built
by the 2nd Lord Selsey about 1804, in
a Strawberry-Hill Gothic. The park
is extensive and well wooded. West
Dean Church has some E. E. por
tions, and contains a good monument
(about 161 6) to three of the Lewknor
family, former lords of the manor.
Either here or at East Dean, 2 m. E.,
or at one of the other " Deans,"
near East Bourne, very picturesquely
placed at the end of a narrow chalk
valley, was the-royal villa of Dene,
at which Asser for the first time
saw King Alfred (" usque adregionem
dexteralium Saxonum, quae Saxonice
Suthseaxum appellator, perveni ; ibi-
que ilium in villa regia, quae dicitur
Dene, primitus vidi." — Vita Alf).
There are now no traces of this an
cient hunting-seat. Roman sepul
chral urns have been found near
Chilgrove in West Dean.
Pursuing the road to Mid Lavant
(9 m.), where the ch. has a marble
effigy of " Dame Mary May," d. 1681
(it was erected during her lifetime),
and. where Dean Hook was buried in
1875, we have first the Racecourse
and next the park of Goodwood in
sight. At 11 m. we pass the ancient
Broyle intrenchments and the bar
racks, and enter Chichester by the
old North Street of Roman Regnum.
(For Chichester and excursions in
its neighbourhood see Rte. 21.)

( 143 )

INDEX.

Places printed in italics are railway stations.

AD DECIMUM.

Ad Decimum, site of, 96;
Adur, 69; source of the, 112 ; at
Cuckfield, 31; estuary, 136;
suspension-bridge at Shore
ham, 70.
Airy, on the place of Caesar's
landiDg, 68; on the death of
Laberius, 8 ; on Harold's in
trenchments at Battle, 9.
Alard tombs at Winchelsea,} 22.
Albert memorial, at Frant, 6;
Hastings, 14; Rye, 24.
Albini, Hugh de, Earl of Arun
del, 125.
Albourne, 133 A
Aldrington, ruined ch., 69.
Alfriston, ch., ancient inn, 57.
Alien Priory, at Wilmington,
57-
Amberley, 73 ; Castle, 120.
Anderida, now Pevensey, b$.
Andrast, a British deity, 29.
Andred's Wood, origin of the
name, 29, 65.
Angmering, 75.
Anne, Queen, at Tunbridge
Wells, 3.
Antiquities, vii.
Appledore, 25; the Danes at,
ch., 25.
Appledram, ch. tower, 101.
Aquarium at Brighton, 36.
Architecture, military, of Sus
sex, ix. ; domestic, ix.
Ardingly, ch., brasses, 29.
Armour, collection of, at Par
ham, 122.
Aran, source of the, 112 ;
Littlehampton its port, 76.
Anundel, 125.
 Castle, history, 126; pic
tures, 126; the Keep, 127.
Arundel tombs, at Chichester,
Arundel, Richard, Earl of, bis
81/

BECKET.
tomb in Chichester Cathe
dral, 81.
 , Bp., his oratory in Chi
chester Cathedral, 82.
 mullet, 76.
Ashburnham, 13, 108.
 iron-works, the last in
Sussex, 109.
Ashdown Forest, 102.
Ashford Junct., 27.
Asten, a Sussex rivulet, tradi
tion, 9.
Avisford Park, 76; antiquities
from, 87.

B.
Backsters, 60.
Bailey, monument by, 114.
Baillie's Court, near Little
hampton, 76.
Balcombe, ch., 28.
Balsdean, chapel, 38.
Barcombe, 56.
Barnliam Jimction, ch., 76.
Barrow Head, fort, 39, 51.
Barrows in Sussex, 52, 95, 99.
Barry, Sir Charles, churches
rebuilt by, 32, 35, 114.
 , picture by, 93.
Bartelott, brasses at Stopham,
113.
Battle, view of the Abbey, 8 ;
ch., brasses, glass, powder-
mills, 12.
 Abbey, foundation, 10.
Bayeux Tapestry, referred to,
15, 73, 100.
Bayhall, Great, near Pembury,
4-
Bayham Abbey, 5.
Beachy Head, lighthouse, Par
son Darby's Hole, sea-fowl,
59 ; sea fight, 60.
Beacon Hill, near Elstead, 141.
Beccafico, the, found in Sussex,
74-
Becket, Abp., his murderers,
46.

BOUNDES.
Beeding, 13$.
Bell Rock, Tunbridge Wells, 4.
 Tout lighthouse, 59.
Bells of Bosham, legend, 101.
Bernardi, the painter, his works
at Chichester, 82, 83 ; at Am
berley, 121.
Berwick, 57.
Bevis, the giant, 125.
Bexhill, 68.
" Bible, the," on Mount Caburn,
47-
Bignor, Roman villa, 95 ; Park,
98 ; Hill, 99.
Billingshurst, ch., brass, 112.
Bilsington, remains of priory,
26.
Birling Gap, Beachy Head, 60.
Bishopstone, ch., 51.
Blaauw, W. H., on the battle
of Lewes, 49; his 'Barons'
Wars,' 50.
Black Cap, on Mount Harry,
48.
- — death of the 14th century,
43.
Bodiam Castle, 8, 17, 19 ; his
tory, 19; remains, 19; B.
Church, 19.
Bognor, St. Michael's College,
B. rocks, excursions. 76.
Bohuns, former possessors of
Cowdray, 139.
Bolebrook, in Hartfield, 103.
Bonnington, cb., 27.
•Book of Orders and Rules,'
140.
Borde, Andrew, his birthplace,
68 ; his jokes about the
Pevensey mayors, 68 ; ac
count of the nightingales in
St. Leonard's forest, in.
Borde Hill, 30.
Borough, 113,
Bors tails, 48.
Bosch, H., picture by, 117.
Bosham, ch., 99.
Boundes, near Southborough,
4; Sir Thos. More and Erag-
m us at, 4 .

144

INDEX.

BOW.

CAMPS.

CHICHESTER.

Bow Hill, near Chichester,

cursions, rides and drives,

Canal, Arundel and Ports

barrows, 94.

J7-

mouth, 76.

Bowerbank, Mr., on the fossils

British antiquities in Sussex,

Canaletti, picture by, 93.

of Bracklesham Bay, 89.

vii.

Cannon, first casting of, in

Boxgrove, Priory, 90.

Broadhurst, residence of Abp.

England, 55 ; ancient, at Pe

Bracklesham Bay, fossils, 89.

Leighton, 31.

vensey, 67.

Bramber, Castle and ch., 136.

Broadwater, 71. ¦

Canoes, ancient British, 131.

Brambletye House, remains,

Brook, its meaning in Sussex,

Cariloco, Prior John de, made

102.

121.

prisoner by the French, 38.

Braose family, churches erect

Broomham Park, 17.

Carleton, Bp. of Chichester,

ed by the, 70, no; their
stronghold at Bramber, 136.

Brown's Burgh, on Brightling

tomb, 85.

Down, 107.

Caroline, queen of George IV.,

Brasses in Sussex : —

Browne, Sir A., Battle Abbey

residence of, at Sompting

Amberley, 121.

granted to, 10 ; obtains Cow

Abbots, 72.

Ardingly, 29.

dray, and is created Viscount

Carter, Mrs. Elizabeth, at Tun

Arundel, 130.

Montague, 139 ; tomb, 12.

bridge Wells, 4.

Battle, 12.

Broyle, 87 ; Chichester, 142.

Caryl, Sir Thomas, altar-tomb

Billingshurst, 113.

Buckhurst Park, 103.

at Shipley, no.

Broadwater, 71.

Buckingham, John, Earl of, his

Castle Goring, 75.

Buxted, 54.

gift to Tunbridge Wells, 3.

Cavaliers and Puritans at Tun

Clapham, 75.

Bulverhithe, named for Caesar's

bridge Wells, 3.

Cowfold, 133.

landing, 68.

Caves, St. Clement's, 15.

Crawley, 109.

Burgess Hill, ch., 31.

Cawley, the regicide, 87.

Etchingham, 7.

Burleigh, Lord, at Eridge, 5.

Cenotaph of Lord Darnley,

Fletching, 54.

Burney, Miss, at Brighton, 35.

91-

Grinstead, East, 102.

Burrell, Sir W., 132; re

Chain Pier, Brighton, 36.

 , West, 1 32.

moves the tombstone of

Chanctonbury Ring, 73, 137.

Hastings, 15.

Gundrada to Southover, 44 ;

Chandler, Dean, restoration of

Henfield, 133.

sarcophagus, 132.

Chichester Cathedral com

Herstmonceux, 64.

 , Timothy, his journal, 30.

menced by, 83 ; memorial

Horsham, no.

Burpham, 131.

window, 81.

Isfield, 56.

Burton Park, 120.

Chandos, Duke of, his death, 3.

Lewes, 44.

Burwash, 7.

Chan trey, statue by, j6.

Northiam, 18.

Bury Hill, barrow, 99.

Charles Rock, East Bourne, 60,

Pulborough, 113.

Butterfield, Mr., churches re

Charles 1., ch. dedicated to, 3 ;

Rusper, no.

stored by: Battle, 12 ; Hast

relics of, at Ashburnham

Rye, 24.

ings, 14 ; W. Lavington, 141.

Place, 108.

Shoreham, New, 70.

Buxted, 54.

 II., at Brighton, 35 ; at

Slaugham, 29.

 Place, ?5.

Shoreham, 69.

Stopham, 113.

Byron, Lord, at Hastings, 15 ;

 III. of Spain at Petworth,

Ticehurst, 6.

at Littlehampton, 76.

xix., 115.

Trotton, 141.

 Rock, the Seven Charleses,

Warbleton, 107.

Beachy Head, 60.

Winchelsea, 22.

Chesworth, near Horsham, in.

Wiston, 136.

Cheynell, Francis, the opponent
Woodchurch, 26.
c.
of Chillingworth, 85 ; rector
* Brazen,' sloop of war, loss of
of Petworth, his confession of
the, 51.
Caburn, Mount, near Lewes,
faith, 114 ; tomb, 38.
Brede Place, 8, 17.
view from, camp, 46, 47.
Chichester, inns, 77 ; cathe
 river, junction with the
Cade Street, 106.
dral, 78-85 ; Bishop's Palace,
85 ; market cross, St. Mary's
Rother and the Tillingham,
Cassar, probable place of land
23.
ing in Britain, 68.
Hospital, churches, Guild
Briekwall Park, pictures, 18;
Cairney Seat, 94.
hall, 86 ; the Pallant, city
visit of Queen Elizabeth,
Cakeham, tower, miracle as-
walls, 87 ; excursions, 87.
18.
scribed to St. Richard of
 Cathedral, history, fall
Brighthelmstone, 34. See Brigh
Chichester, 89.
and rebuilding of tbe spire,
ton.
Calverley Park, probable origin
78; ground-plan, 79; west
Brightling, 107.
of the name, 2.
porch, nave, 80 ; Arundel
Brighton, Tail ways, hotels, 33 ;
Camber Castle, ruins, 23.
chantry, 81 ; choir, 82 ;
early history, established as
Camoys, Lady, the widow of
south transept, sacristy, 82;
a bathing-place, 34 ; old ch.,
Hotspur, 141.
retro - choir, Lady chapel,
Wellington memorial, mo
 , Lady -Marguerite, early
83 ; chapter library, N. aisle,
dern churches, 35 ; the Pa
brass, 141.
N. transept, cloisters, 84;
vilion, piers, Kemp Town,
Camps in Sussex, xxiii., 33, 38,
exterior views, bell -tower,
36; Queen's park, 37; ex-
47. 72. 94» ™°> 137-
85.
145

CHIDDINGFOLD,
Chiddingfold, 138.
Chiddingly, 51.
Chidham, 101.
Chilgrove, in West Dean, Ro
man urns found, 142.
Chillingworth, William, death
and character, tablet to, 85 ;
its inscription defaced, 85.
Cissbury camp, views from, 72.
Cistercians, sites preferred by
the, "j.
Clapham Woods, 74.
Claude, pictures by, 115, 116.
Clayton, ch., tunnel, 33.
Cleves, Anne of, her name asso
ciated with Sussex tradition,
44.
CUff End, near Pett, 17.
Cliffe Hill, Lewes, view from,
45-
GliftonviMe, 69.
Climping, 75.
Cloisters, the, Chichester, 84.
Cluniac Priory, the first,
founded by Earl Warrene
and Gundrada, 42.
Cobden, Mr., 140.
Cocking, 142.
Cogidubnus, king of the Regni,
77. 94- ,
Colchester, Lord, tomb, 102.
Coline, Jhone, iron grave-slab
of, 7.
Collins, William, burial-place,
86; monument in Chiches
ter Cathedral, 81.
Compton Place, 59.
Conybeare, Mr., on the drain
age of the Weald, xvi.
Cootfs Bridge, 39.
Coolhurst, near Horsham, in.
Coombe, the, at Lewes, 45;
referred to by Sir C. Lyell,
46.
Coombe House, 30.
 Place, 50.
Coombs and deans, distinction
between, xvii., 38, 47.
Cooper, miniature by, 93.
Correggio. picture by, 117.
Cosway, Sir R. W., obelisk to,
27.
Cowdray, park, 139.
Cowfold, 133.
Cow Gap, East Bourne, 60.
Crawley, 109.
Cross-in-hand, 106.
Crouch, Mrs., grave of, 3 5-
Crowborough, beacon, 53.
CrowhurBt, ch., 16; C. Place,
16.
Cnckfield, 30.
Cuckmere River, 57, 61.
Cumberland, R., on the cli
mate of Tunbridge Wells, 3
\Su8Sex.~]

EARLSWOOD.
Cuthman (St.), story of, 133.
Cuyp, pictures by, 108, 116.

Dacre, Lord, execution of, 62.
 , tomb, Herstmonceux, 64.
Dahl, paintings by, 116.
Dale Park, 99.
Dallington, 107.
Dangstein, 141,
Danny, 32.
Darby, Rev. JonathaD, his re
fuge for shipwrecked sailors,
59-
Darnley, cenotapb of Lord, 93.
Dean, East, Alfred's villa, 142.
 , West, ch. and house, 142.
 , West, near Seaford, 53.
Delawarr tomb, Boxgrove, 91.
Denne Park, Horsham, fine
views, in.
" Devil's Book, the," on Mount
Caburn, 47.
 Dyke, legend, 37.
 Jumps, at Treyford, 95.
Dicul, the Scottish monk, at
Bosham, 100.
Dippers, the, at Tunbridge
Wells, 4.
Ditchling, 32, 38.
— Beacon, 31.
Dixter, in Northiam, 18.
Dorset monuments at Wi-
thyam, 103.
Douglas, the antiquary, grave
of, 38.
Dowles, the/25.
Downs, South, scenery of the,
47 ; highest point, 3 1 ; pecu
liar breed of sheep, 47.
Drayton, 77.
Drayton, quotations from his
' Polyolbion,' xii., 10.
Dripping Pan, Lewes, 43.
Dripping Well, Hastings, 16.
Drummer's Hall, Herstmon
ceux Castle, 63.
Dudley, the favourite of Henry
VIL, 42-
Dunford House, Midhurst, 140.
Dunstan (St.), scene of his con
test with the devil, 104.
Dureford Abbey, 141.
Durer, Albert, etchings by, 98.

E.
Eagle, Honour of the, 65.
Earlswood, 27.

FALMER.
Eartham, 96.
Earthworks, British, in Sussex,
xxiii.
Easeborne, ch., tombs, 138.
East Bourne, 58; church, 58.
Ebony, ch., 26.
Ecclesbourne, near Hastings,
15.
Edilwalch, King, grants Selsey
to Wilfrid, 88.
Edward I., founds New Win
chelsea, 21 ; accident to, 23.
 III., defeats the Spanish
fleet off Winchelsea, 21.
 , Prince (afterwards Ed
ward I.), captured at Lewes,
49 ; storms Winchelsea, 20.
See Edward I.
-  tbe Black Prince, fights
with the Spanish fleet off
Winchelsea, 21.
Egremont, Earl of, monument
at Petworth, 114; memorial
erected by him, 114.
Egyptian antiquities at Par
ham, 122.
Eliot, Lady Georgiana, St.
Michael's College, Bognor,
founded by, 76.
Elizabeth, Queen, her pro
gresses, 5, 18, 21, 241 io4«
140; her oak, 18.
Ella, place of landing, 90 ;
storms Anderida, 65.
Elliot, General, 106.
Ellman, Mr, the improver of
the South Down sheep, 47.
Elsheimer, pictures by, 117.
Elstead, 141.
Empson,William and Charlotte,
burial-place, 4.
Emsworth, 101.
Entyknapps, family f of, Saxon
charter in the possession of
the, 138.
Erasmus, at Boundes, 4.
Eridge Castle, 4, 54; visit of
Queen Elizabeth, 5 ; E.
Rocks, 5.
Etchingham, 6, 7.
Ethelwolf, King, burial-place,
134-
Evelyn, John, early education,
46.
Ewhurst, in Shermanbury, 133.

F.
Faber, William, the architect
of Battle Abbey, 10.
Fairfield, ch., 25.
Fairlight, ch., 16; F. Down, 16.
Falmer, 39.

146

INDEX.

FARNHURST.
Farnhurst, 140.
Farringdon, Dame Elizabeth,
her gift to Chichester, 86.
" Fatal tree," the, in Cuckfield
Park, 30.
Faussett, Bryan, his researches,
xii.
Fay Gate, no.
Felpham, 77.
Field Place, in.
Fiennes, Sir Roger, the builder
of Herstmonceux, 62.
Fig gardens, in Sussex, 71, 73.
Findon, 73.
Firle Beacon, and Place, 57.
Fitzalan, tombs at Arundel,
129 ; at Chichester, 81.
Fitzwilliam, Sir William,
builder of Cowdray, 139.
Flaxman, monuments and
statues by, 81, 96, 103, 119,
132.
Flemish settlers, early, on the
Sussex coast, 34.
Fletcher, the dramatist, birth
place, 24.
Fletching, 50, 53.
Ford Junction, 75, 131.
Forest, submarine, near Bex
hill, 68.
 Row, 102.
Forests.: Ashdown, 102 ; St.
Leonard's, in ; Stanstead,
95; Tilgate, 28 ; Worth, 28.
Fossils from Sussex, 30, 38, 131.
Foster and Topley, Messrs., on
the denudation of the Weald,
xiii., xvi.
Frant, 4, 6, 103.
French, ravages of the, along
the southern coast, 21, 24,
38, 40, 42, 52.
Frewen, Abp., denounced by
Cromwell, 18.
 , Stephen, Thankful, 18.
Friars, the, at Winchelsea, 23.
Friston Place, 53.
Fuller,on cherry orchards,xiv. ;
on the French at Winchelsea,
21 ; on the Selsey cockle, 89.
 , J. Esq., observatory built
by, ,107 ; monument, 108.
¦  family, their motto, xl

G.
Gainsborough, pictures by, 92,
118,119,123.
Gaunt,John of, engaged against
the Spanish fleet off Winchel
sea, 21.
Geology of Sussex, xiii.
George II., visit of, to Rye, 24.

GRINSTEAD.
George IV., patronage of Brigh
ton, 34.
Geraldine, the Fair, burial-
place, 12.
Gerrard, Mark, picture by,
18.
Gibbon, the historian, burial-
place, 54 ; portrait, 54.
Gibbons, Grinling, carvings by,
at Herstmonceux Place, 64;
at Petworth, 118.
Gilly Wood, near Brede, 18.
Glass, painted, in Sussex : —
Arundel, 130.
Battle, 12.
Brighton, 35.
Chichester, 82, 84.
Crowhurst, 16.
East Bourne, 58.
Herstmonceux, 64.
Hooe, 68.
Horsham, no.
Lavington, West, 141
Newtimber, 133.
Parham, 124.
Shermanbury, 133.
Slaugham, 29.
Southover, 43.
Stopham, 113.
Tarring, West, 73.
Ticehurst, 6.
Wareborne, 26.
Whatlington, 12.
Woolbeding, 141.
Glen Andred, 103.
¦Glynleigb, near Hailsham, 64.
Glynde, 56.
Godwin, Early his manor of
Bosham, how obtained, too.
Golden pippin, question of its
origin, 3 2.
Goodwood, house, [pictures, 92 ;
park, Roman monumental
slab, 93 ; race-course, 94.
Goring, 75.
Gorogl-town, 68.
Gosfrid, Bp. of Chichester,
stone coffin, 84.
Graffham, 142.
Grandisson, John, Bp. of Exe
ter, inscription in a book be
longing to the abbey of Ro
bertsbridge, 7.
Grange Eoad, 101.
Gravetye, in Hoathly, 29.
Great upon Little, 29.
Greatbam, ch., 121.
Grebell, Allen, murder of, 24.
Gresham, Sir Thomas, his resi
dence at Mayfield, entertains
Queen Elizabeth, 104.
Grey, Lady Jane, needlework
by, 119.
Grinstead, East, 101.
 , West, 132.

HENRY.
Groaning Bridge, near Brede,
18.
Groombridge, the Moated
House, 5 ; junct., 103 ;
Place, 103.
Grove, Bp. of Chichester, tomb,
85.
Guest, Dr., on Andred's Weald,
29, 65.
Guestling, ch., 16.
Guildford, East, 25.
Gunter monuments at Racton,
95.

Hailsham, 61.
Halland, in East Hoathly, 51,
Halnaker, remains of, 91.
Bam Street, 26.
Hammerponds in Sussex, 112.
Hampnett, West, 90.
Hamsey, 56.
Hangleton manor-house, 69.
Hardham, 113, 121.
Hare, Archdeacon, 62.
Haremere, in Etchingham, 7.
Harold, King, his residence at
Bosham, 100; scene of his
death, 8, 9.
Harrison's Rocks, near Eridge,
ferns, 5.
Harry, Mount, near Lewes,
32, 48.
Hartfield, 102.
Hassell, Phcebe, grave of, 35.
Hassoc&s Gate, 31.
Hassock, meaning of, 31.
Hasten, the Dane, not the
founder of Hastings, 13.
Hastings, 13 ; Castle, 13 ;
churches, 14 ; excursions,
15.
 , battle of, 8.
— sand, its range, 17.
Hayley, joint author of the
epitaph on Collins, 81; and
at Felpham, burial - place ,
77 ; at Eartham, 96.
Hayward's Heath, 30.
Heathfield, 106.
Hellingly Park, fatal affray in,
62.
Hemans, Mrs., inscription by,
56.
Hendall, in Buxted, 55.
Henfield, 133.
Henry III. at tbe battle of
Lewes, 48.
 VI., his pencase, 124.
 VII. a patron of Bp.
Sherborne, 82.
 VIII. a subject of Sussex

INDEX.

147

HERONRY.
traditions, 44; blockhouses
built by, 52.
Heronry, the Parham, 124 ;
Great Sowden's Wood, 18.
Herstmonceux, 13, 62; ch., 63.
 Place, 64.
Hetheland, 9.
Heyshott Down, British camp,
142.
Hickstead Place, ornaments in
brick, 30.
Hidney, 64. ,
High Beeches, 103.
 Rocks, Tunbridge Wells,
Evelyn's description, 2, 103.
Higham, near Robertsbridge, 8.
Highdown Hill, 73, 74.
Hirondelle, the steed of Bevis
of Hampton, 125, a
Hoathly, East, 51.
 , West, 29.
Hogarth, pictures by, 93, 116,
119.
Hogge, Ralf, the first English
cannon-founder, 55.
Holbein, pictures by, 18, 115,
126, 132.
Hollingsbury Castle, 38.
Holly Hill, 103.
Holmbush House, 112.
Hoo, Thomas, Lord, monument,
no; repaired by order of
Queen Elizabeth, no.
Hooe, 68.
Hook, Dean, burial-place, 142.
Horeham, near Warbleton, 107.
Horley, 27.
Horne Farm, near Appledore,
26.
Horsey, 64.
Horsfield, quoted, 108.
Borsham, no.
Horsted, near Aylesford, no.
 Keynes, 31.
¦  -, Little, 55-
 Place, 56.
Hospitallers, Knights, at Po
ling, 75-
Hove, 33, 69.
Howard, H., paintings by, 119.
Howbourne, in Buxted, relic of
the Sussex iron manufacture,
55-
Hudson, pictures by, 93, n?.
Huggett's Furnace, near Bux
ted, local rhyme, 55.
Huntington, W., epitaph, 46.
Hurdis, Rev. J., monument,
52.
Hurst Chapel, 27,
 House, a Jacobite refuge,
27.
Hurstpierpoint, 32.
Hushing Well, the, in Pagham,
harbour, 89.

KEMBLE.
Huskisson, Mr., memorial, 81.
Hussey, Rev. A. L., Churches of
Sussex, 72, 73.
 , Mr. R. C, on the place of
Caesar's landing, 68.

Icklesham, 23.
Iden, 25.
 , Alexander, the slayer of
Jack Cade, 25.
Iford, 48.
" Ing," meaning of the term!
nation according to J. M.
Kemble, 75.
Iridge Place, near Roberts-
bridge, 8.
Iron grave-slabs, 6, 103.
 manufacture of Sussex,
x., 109.
Isaac's Hole, Michelham Priory,
61, 42.
Isfield, 56.
Islipy Abp., a waster of timber,
104 ; his death, 104.
Itchingfield, 112.
Iwood, near Warbleton, exten
sive view, 107.

J.
Jackson, Cyril, Dean of Ch.
Ch., Oxford, tomb, 77.
 , pictures by, 93.
Jansen, picture by, 18.
Jeake, Samuel, of Rye, 25.
Jefferay monument, at Chid
dingly, 51.
Jenkins, J., " Welsh Am
bassador," 46.
Jevington, 57.
Jireb chapel, Lewes, 46.
Joan of Navarre, place of her
imprisonment, 62.
John's (St.) College, 33-
 , Common, ch., 31.
John of Gaunt, 21, 65.
Johnson, Dr., at Brighton, 3$ ;
at Cowdray, 139; at Tun
bridge Wells, 3.
Jordaens, picture by, 115.
Jugs, Brighton fishermen for
merly so called, 48.
Juxon, Abp., birthplace, 133.

Kauffman, A., picture by, 123.
Kemble, J. M., on tbe termina
tion " ing," 75.

Kemp Town, Brighton, 36.
Kenardington, 26.
Kenwards, near Lindfield, 31,
Keymer Junction, 31.
 ¦ Church, 32.
Keynes or Cheney Family, 31.
Kidbroke, 102.
King, Bp. of Chichester, tomb,
85.
Kingly Bottom, 94.
Kingsnortbi moated houses, 27.
Kingston, near Lewes, 47.
 by-Sea, 69.
Kneller, Sir Godfrey, pictures
by, 92, 117, 118.
Knepp Castle, 112, 132.
Knox, A. E., on the Adur at
Shoreham, 137 ; the owls at
Arundel, 128 ; the sea-fowl
at Beachy Head, 60; Pag
ham Creek, 89 ; the Parham
heronry, 124 ; Pevensey
beach, 61 ; ravens at Pet
worth, 120.
Kynor, probably Cymenesora,
where Ella landed, 90.

L,
Laberius, death of, placed m
Sussex by Airy, 8.
Lacies, in Salvington, 74.
Lamb, Chas., on Hastings, 15.
Lancing, St. Nicholas College,
70.
Landgate, Rye, 24 ; Winchel
sea, 20, 23.
Langney, ancient chapel, 61, 64.
Langton, Abp., death, 99.
 ¦, Bp. John de, his work9
in Chichester Cathedral, 78.
Laterna, the, 42, 61.
Laughton, 50.
Lavington, 142.
-, West, ch., 141.
Lawrence, Sir T., picture by,
92.
Leigh Pono^near Cuckfield, 30.
Leighton, Abp., residence at
Broadhurst, grave, 31.
Lely, Sir P., pictures by, 92,
116, 127, 132.
Leofard, Bp. Gilbert de St., hi3
work in Chichester Cathe
dral, 83.
Leominster, 75.
Leonard, St., Sussex legends of,
in.
Leonabd's-on-Sea (St.), 13,
15, 69.
— (St.) Forest, in.
Leonardslee, 112.
Letslie, pictures by, 117.
h2

148

INDEX.

LEUGA.
Leuga of Battle, io.
Levinus Venetianus, picture
ascribed to, 93.
Lewes, 39 ; Castle, 40 ; Priory,
41 ; churches, 43 ; excursions,
50.
 , battle of, 48.
Lewknor, Edward, tomb of,
56.
 , Sir Lewis, his castle of
Bodiam dismantled, 19.
Lighthouse, Bell Tout, 59.
Lilies, Sussex tradition, 112.
Lindfield, 30.
Lintot, Bernard, nr.
Littlehampton, 76,
Loest, G., picture by,"i8.
Lollards' Prison, Chichester, 82.
Louis Philippe, King, his land
ing at Newhaven, 51; resi
dence at St. Leonard's, 15.
Louvaine, Joscelyn of, 114.
Lovers' Seat, Hastings, legend,
16.
Lower, M. A,, his Handbook of
Lewes, 45 ; on the battle of
Hastings, 9, 14; on Peven
sey, 65, 68 ; on Puck Church
parlour, 53 ; on the Sussex
iron-works, x., 105, 109.
Lowy or Leuga of Battle, 10;'
of Pevensey, 64.
Lunt, near Lindfield, 3 1.
Lurgashall, 138.
Lyell, Sir C., his theory on the
denudation of the Weald,
xiv.

M.
Maas, D., picture by, 117.
Magavelda, 104.
Maison Dieu, at Arundel, 130.
Malfosse, the, at Battle, 9.
Mailing, near Lewes, 46.
 , Old, or South, legend of
Becket's murderers at, 46.
Mangnus, inscription in honour
of, at Lewes, 45.
Manhood (for Mainwood) hun
dred, 88.
Mankseye, 64.
Mansell, John, counsellor of
Henry III., his great feast,
26.
Mantell, Dr., birthplace, 45 ;
discoveries in the Hastings
sand, 17 ; at Worth, 28.
Manufactures of Sussex, ix.
Marratti, C, picture by, 123.
Maresfield, 53, ic6.
Markcross, 104.
Martello towers in Sussex, 52,
59-

NEW.
Martial, the Pudens and Claudia
of, 77.
Martin, P, J., on the iron m
Sussex, x.
 , Gregory, birthplace, 17.
Mary's (St.) Hospital, Chiches
ter, 86.
Mascali, Leonard, introduces
carp into England, 32.
Mascalls, near Lindfield, 31.
Maxfield, in Guestling, 17.
May, Dame Mary, efligy, 142.
 , Thomas, birthplace, 105.
Mayfield, 54, 104.
Medway, source of, 102.
Michel Grove, the heronry at,
125.
Michelham Priory, 61.
Midhurst, 120, 139.
Mike Mill's Race, legend,".in.
Midlavant, 142.
Miller's tomb, the, 74.
Mise of Lewes, 49.
Moated House, Groombridge,
5, 103.
Mole, 27.
Moleynes, Bp., tomb, 84.
Moneeux, Waleran de, places
named from, 62.
Montague, Lord, tomb at Ease-
borne, 138.
Montfort, Simon de, his en
campment at Fletching, 54 ;
gains the battle of Lewes,
48.
Montgomery, Roger de, builds
a castle at Chichester, 77.
Montjoye, 10.
Moore, Rev. GileB, journal of,
31.
More, Sir Thomas, visited by
Erasmus, 4.
Moreton, Robert de, the builder
of Pevensey Castle, 65.
Mortimer, the painter, 60.
Mountebanks, a Sussex name
for smugglers, 8.
Mountfield, gold ornaments
found at, 8.
Mullet, 76.
Muntham, in Findon, 73.
Mutton, antiquity claimed by
the family of, no.

N.
Nash, Beau, at Tunbridge
Wells, 3.
Nelond, Prior, brass of, at
Cowfold, 133.
Newhaven, 38 ; steamers from,
to Dieppe, fort, ch., 51.
New Place, Angmering, 75.

PALGRAVE.
Newtimber, 133.
Nicholas (St.) College, Lancing,
70.
Nightingales in St. Leonards
forest, in.
Ninfield, 10.
Nollekens, bust by, Q2, 103.
Norman division of Sussex, vi.
Nonnanhurst, 12.
Normans Farm, in Rusper,
no.
North, Lord, the discoverer of
the springs at Tunbridge
Wells, 2.
Norlhey, 64.
Northiam, 8, 17 ; ch., 18.
Nuthurst, 112.

0.
Oak, Q. Elizabeth's, 18.
Oates, Titus, birthplace, 14.
Observatory, the Royal, on
Brightling Down, 107.
Ockenden House, near Cuck
field, 30.
Offham, first railway at, 50.
Offington, near Broadwater, 71.
Old Place, 113.
Old Roar, near Hastings, 16.
Opie, pictures by, 119.
 , Mrs., epitaph on Hayley,
77-
Orchis, the bee, found at Mount
Caburn, 47.
Ore Place, 16.
Orleans, Duke of, his captivity,
5 ; builds Speldhurst ch., 5 ;
kept prisoner, 103.
Orleston, 26. .
Ostade, pictures by, 123.
Otham, near Hailsham, dese
crated chapel, 61.
Otter, Bp., bust and memorial
window, 83.
 Memorial, Chichester, 87.
Otway, birthplace, 141.
Ouse, the river, at Lewes, 40.
 Valley viaduct, 30.
Ovingdean, 38.
Owen, Sir David, monument of,
at Easeborne, 138.
Oxenbridge, SirGoddard,monu-
ment, legend, 17.
Oxney, Isle of, 26.
Oxsteddle Bottom, 47.

P.
Pagbam, 76, 88.
Palgrave, Sir F., on the Norman
division of Sussex, vii.

INDEX.

149

PALMER.
Palmer brothers, the three, 75.
Pancras (St.) Priory, Lewes, 41.
Pantiles, the, at Tunbridge
Wells, 3.
Parham, 73, 121 j library, 122;
pictures, 123.
Parson Darby's Hole, 59.
Partridge Green, 133.
Patcham, near Brighton, ch.,
38.
 . Place, near Angmering,
75-
Pavilion, the, at Brighton, 36.
Pax Hill, near Lindfield, 31.
Peasemarsh, ch., 25.
Pelham, Lady, ber letters, 66.
 , Sir Nicholas, epitaph, 44.
 buckle, the, 16, 50, 107.
Pembury, 4.
Penn's Eocks, 5.
Pennybridge, 106.
Percies, at Petworth, 114.
Perry Hill, near Hartfleld, 103.
Pett, ch., road to Cliff End, 17.
Petwm-th, 113.
 House, 114; pictures, 115.
Pevensey, 64.
 Bay, 60.
Pharisees, Sussex for fairies,
xviii.
Philippa, Queen, at Winchelsea,
22.
st. Philippo Neri, ch. of, 130.
Pictures, collections of, Sussex :
Arundel, 126.
Ashburnham Place, 108.
Briekwall, 18.
Brighton, 36.
Goodwood, 92.
' Knepp Castle, 132.
Lewes, 45.
Parham, 123.
Petworth, 115.
Up Park, 95.
Piddinghoe, ch., 51.
Playden, 2;.
Plumpton, 39.
 Place, 32.
Polegate Junction, 57.
Poling, 75.
Pope, A., hiB verses on the
' Earl of Dorset, ioj ; his
'Rape of the Lock,' where
composed, 132.
Porter, G. E., burial-place, 4.
Portraits of Bishops of Selsey
and Chichester, 84.
Portslade, ruined ch. of Ald-
rington, 69.
Portus Cuthmanni, 135-
Possingworth Manor, 106.
Pottery, Eoman, found at Big
nor, 72 ; Cissbury, 72.
Poussin, G., pictures by, 115.
Powder mills, Battle, 12.

EITSOU.
Poynings, 37.
Premonstratensians, general
character of their churches,
61.
Preston, near Brighton, 33,
3,.
Priesthawes, near Pevensey,
64.
Products and manufactures of
Sussex, ix.
Puck Church Parlour, 5 .
Pulborough, 98, 113.

Q.
Quarries, Sussex, xvii., 30, 38,
no, 131.
Queen's Park, Brighton, 37.

R.
Racton, 95.
Raffaelle, picture by, 116, 123,
124.
Railways in course of construc
tion, or authorised, 69, 103.
Rainsford, Meneieb, epitaph,
133-
Ralph, Bp., builds Chichester
Cathedral, 78, 80, 81, 83;
tomb, 83.
Rede, Bp. W., his excommuni
cations, 88, 130.
Redvin's Cop, near Goodwood,
87.
Regnum (now Chichester), 77.
Rembrandt, pictures by, 108,
116.
Reynolds, Sir JoBhua, pictures
by, 92, 116, 119.
Richard, King of tbe Romans,
captured at Lewes, 49.
 1., English abbots sent to
inquire into his captivity, 8.
 (St.), Bp. of Chichester,
bis successful fishing, 40 ;
his fig-trees at Tarring, 73 ;
miracle recorded of, 89 ;
tomb, translation of his re
mains, 82.
Ricbardson, Mr. E., his resto
rations of tombs in Chichester
Cathedral, 81.
Rickards, Sir James, flight of,
102.
Rife, in Sussex, 131.
Ring-dotterel, haunt of the, 6f .
Ringmer, near Lewes, 47 ;
Gilbert White at, 47.
Ritson, Jonathan, bis wood-
carvings at Petworth, 118.

SAURIANS.
Roads, bad, in Kent and Sussex,
xix.
Robertsbridge stat, 7 ; abbey, 7.
Roche's (St.) Hill, camp, 94,
Rocks, Barn, Bognor, 76.
 , Eridge, Harrison's, 5.
 , High, 2, 4.
— , Penn's, 5.
 , Tunbridge Wells, 4.
 , Uckfield, 55.
 , Vivan, 76.
Roetmann's, Cornelis, grave-
slab, 25.
Rogate, 141.
Roman altar preserved at Good
wood, 93; at Stone, in Ox
ney, 26.
 antiquities in Sussex, vii.,
113.
Romney Marsh, 25.
Romney, pictures by, 87, 93.
119.
Rook's Hill, camp, 94.
Rookwood Hall, its prototype,
30.
Rose Hill, in Brightling, 108.
Rother, the, 7 ; encompasses
Oxney island, 26 ; joins the
Brede and Tillingham at
Rye, 23 ; its rise, 104.
 , the Little, navigable from
Midhurst, 139.
Rotherfield, ch., mural painting,
54. i°4-
Rottingdean, ch., fossils, skir
mish with the French, 38.
Rowfomt, 101.
Rubens, picture by, 117.
Ruckinge, 26.
Rudgwick, 112.
Rusper, no.
Rustball Common, Toad Rock,
Rte, 23.

S.
Sackville College, East Grin
stead, 102.
Saleburst, 8.
Saltdean Gap, 39*
Salvator Rosa, picture by, 92.
Salvington, birthplace of Sel
den, 74.
Samphire, abundant on Beachy
Head, 60.
Sanguelac, or Santlache, site
of the battle of Hastings, 9.
Sarto, A., del, picture by, 116.
Sargent, Mr., Joint author of
the epitaph on Collins, in
Chichester Cathedral, 81.
Saurians, marine, discovery of,
17.

150

INDEX.

SAVAGE.
Savage, Christopher, epitaph,
54-
Saxon antiquities in Sussex, vii.
Scotney, Walter de, execution
of, 16.
Scott, Sir G. G., churches re
stored or built by, 55, 80,
9i-
Sculptured slabs from Selsey,
at Chichester, 83.
Seaford, 52.
Sedlescomb, 17, 19.
Seffrid H., Bp., his work in
Chichester Cathedral, 80, 83 ;
stone coffin, and talismanic
ring, 84.
Selsey, history, 87 ; the Hush
ing Well, 76, 89; portraits
of bishops of, 84.
Selsfield (or Siddlesfield) Com
mon, fine view, 29.
Selwyn, W-, burial-place, 4,
Series, 54.
Seven Sisters, cliffs between
Seaford and Beachy Head,
53-
Sheep, South Down, 47.
Sheffield Place, near Fletching,
54-
Shelley, Percy Bysshe, birth
place, in.
 tombs and brasses, at Clap
ham, 75.
Sherborne, Bp., his works at
, Chichester, 82, 83, 87 ; a
patron of Bernardi, 82 ; his
works at Amberley, 121 ;
tomb and effigy, 83.
Shermanbury, ch. and Place,
133-
Shernfold House, near Frant, 6.
Shillinglee Park, 138.
Shipley, 133.
Shirley brothers, the, their ad
ventures, 135.
Shoreham (Sussex), New, 69.
 Old, 70.
¦  ¦ Junction, 69, 137.
Shulbrede Priory, 140.
Shuttleworth, Bp., memorial
window, at Chichester, 83.
Siddlesfield Common, fine view,
29.
Sidlesham, 90.
Silver Hill, near Robertsbridge,
8.
Singleton, 142.
Slater, Mr., churches restored
by, 7, 78-
Slaugham, 29.
Slindon Park, 99 ; beeches, 99.
Slinfold, 112.
Slough, near Cuckfield, 30.
Smith, Mr. C. Roach, on Portus
Adurni, 136.

TAPESTRY.
Smith, G. and J., pictures by,
92.
Smugglers in Romney marsh,
xviii. ; in Sussex, 8.
Snargate, ch., 25.
Socknersh, 108.
Somerhill, 1.
Somerset, the " proud Duke "
of, 118.
Sompting, 72.
 Abbots, 72.
Southborough, 3.
Southease, 51.
Southey, on Chichester Cathe
dral, 78; on the view from
Cissbury, 73 ; memorial, 73.
Southover ch., Lewes, 43.
Southwater, 132.
Southwick, 69.
Sowden's (Great) Wood,
heronry, 18.
Speldhurst, 5.
Spires, Sussex, chiefly found in
the Weald, and why, 54.
Standard Hill, in Ninfield, 10.
Stane Street, course of the, in
Sussex, 77, 99.
StanmerPark, 33, 39*
Stanstead Park, 95.
Steamers from Littlehampton,
7; Newhaven, 51.
Sterling at Herstmonceux, 64.
Stewart,Lady Catherine,column
to tbe memory of, 4.
Steyning, 73, 133.
Stoke, North and South, 131.
 Down, near Chichester,
circular hollows, 95.
Stone, in Oxney, ancient altar,
26.
Stopham, 113.
Story, Bp., builds Chichester
cross, 86 ; tomb, 83.
Storrington, ch., monuments,
7?. "5.
Strand Gate, Winchelsea, acci
dent to Edward I. at, 23.
Street Place, 32.
Submarine forest, 68.
Sullington, 137.
Sussex Archaeological Society,
their museum, 41.
Sutton Hill, near Bignor, 92.
Swanborough, so-called chapel
at, 47.
Swanbourne Lake, 131.
Swaneveldt, picture by, 115.

T.
Taillefer, the jongleur, 9.
Tanners, 107.
Tapestry, tbe Bayeux, 15, 67,
100 ; at Goodwood, 93 ; at

UP WALTHAM.
Petworth, 118 ; at Stanstead
Park, 95.
Tarring, 73.
TattersaU, Capt., carries Charles
II. over to France, 70; his
grave, 35-
Telham Hill, near Battle, 10.
Teniers, pictures by, 108, 115,
116.
Terwick, 141.
Thackeray, on George IV. and
Brighton, 34.
Thrale, Mrs., at Brighton, 35.
Three Bridges Junction, 27.
Ticehurst, 6.
Ticehurst Road stat., 6.
Tierney, Rev. M. A., 130.
Tilgate Forest, fossils, rare
lichen, 28.
Tillingham, the river, junction
with the Rother, 23.
Tillington, ch., 138.
Tintoretto, picture by, 115.
Titian, picture by, 115, 116.
Torrington, Lord, defeated at
Beachy Head, 60 ; his treat
ment by William III., 60.
Tortington, 75.
Totty, Rev. Dr., rector of
Etchingham, 7.
Tourville, Count de, gains the
""battle of Beachy Head, 60.
Trotton, 141.
Trundle, the, a camp on Rook's
Hill, 73, 94.
Tufton Place, in Northiam, 18.
Tunbridge Wells, 2 ; ch., 3 ;
ware, 4 ; walks, 4 ; excur
sions, 5.
Tunnels near Dover, line
piercing the South Downs, 39)
125.
Turner, his view of Arundel,
131; of Brightling Down,
107; his pictures at Pet
worth, 118, 119.
Turnerelli, bust by, 92.
Turneresque topography,"
107.
Turner's Hill, source of the
Medway, 102.
Tweed, the, a branch of the
Rother, 26.
Twineham, ch., 30.
Tye, near Cuckfield, 30,
Tys, a fairy, 6.

Uckfield, 55.
Udimore, 18.
Up Park, near Stanstead, 95.
Up Waltham, ch., 96.

151

VAN DER HELST.

Van der Heist, picture by, 118.
 der Meulen, pictures by,
116, 117, 118.
Vandyck, pictures by, 92, 115,
116, 117, 123, 126, 127, 132.
Vansomer, pictures by, 115,
118.
Varelst, picture by, 115.
Verdley Castle, 140.
Velasquez, picture by, 116.
Viaduct, the Ouse, 30.
Vineyard, the, Uckfield, $$.
Vogelarius, picture ascribed
±0, 93.

W.
Wadhursi, 6.
Wakehurst Place, 29.
Walberton, 87.
Waldron, 51, 107.
Walford, Mr. W. S., on Worth
ch., 28.
Walker, pictures by, 116.
Waller, Sir William, dismantles
Bodiam Castle, 19 ; captures
Arundel, 126 ; Chichester,
-78.
 , Richard, captures the
Duke of Orleans, 5.
Walloon settlers in Sussex,
24.
Walpole, Horace, on Herst
monceux, 62 ; on Petworth,
118 ; on Robertsbridge, 8 ;
on smugglers, 8 ; on the
Sussex roads, xix. ; appro
priates a church window,
68.
Warbleton, 107.
Warehorne, 26.
Warlewast, Bp., his college at
Bosham, 100.
Warnham, in.
Warrene, Earl William, founder
of the Castle and Priory of

WILMINGTON.
Lewes, 41 ; discovery of bis
remains and those of his
countess, 43.
Warrior-square stat., 13.
Warter, Rev. J. W., 73.
Wartling Road, 68.
Washington, 137.
Watch Oak, near Battle, 10.
Watering-places, the most
ancient in England, 2.
Watson, George, the Sussex
calculator, 55.
Weald, the, 138 ; geology, xiii. ;
iron-works, ix., 105.
Well Holes, the, 57.
 House, near Northiam,
18.
Wellington, Duk-e of, memorial
to, at Brighton, 3$.
Wesley, John, scene of his last
out-door sermon, 22.
Westboume, 101.
Westfield, 17.
Westham, 64.
Westmacott, statues and monu
ments by, 119, 125.
Weston, George and Joseph,
highwaymen, 23.
Whatlington, 12.
White, Gilbert, on the South
Downs, 47.
White Hart Hill, Icklesbam,
fine view, 23.
 Hawk Hill, camp, 38.
Wigsdell, near Robertsbridge,
8.
Wilfrid, establishes a mona
stery at Selsey, 88.
Wilkie, Sir D., painting by,
119.
William I., landing of, 67 ; at
the battle of Hastings, 9;
founds Battle Abbey, 10.
 IL, at the consecration of
Battle Abbey, 10.
 HI., treatment of Lord
Torrington, 60.
Willis, Rev. Prof., on the fall
of Chichester spire, 80 ; on St.
Richard's shrine, 82.
Wilmington, 57.

ZUCCHERO.
Wilmington, Long Man of, 57.
Winchelsea, 20; history, 20,
21 ; church, 22.
Windmill Hill, Herstmonceux,
64.
Wisborough Green, 113.
Wiston, 73, 135.
Withylwjm, 103.
Witley to Midhurst, 138.
Wittering, West, 90.
Wittersham, 26.
Wolstanbury Hill, camp, 32.
Woodchurch, 26.
 , Simon de, burial-place
26.
Woodman, Richard, a. Sussex
martyr, 107.
Woolbeding, 141.
Woollavington, St. Mary, 141.
Worth, Anglo-Saxon ch., 27 ;
forest, 28.
Worthing, bathing, extensive
views, climate,, environs,
Wreckers on the Sussex coast,
59-
Wren, Sir Christopher, houses
in Chichester ascribed to, 87.
Wright, Mr. T., on Bignor,
97-
Wycb, R. de la, or St. Richard,
Bp. of Chichester, 40, 73, 82,
89.
Wykeham, Bp. William of,
once a canon of Hastings,
14-
Wykehurst, 29. *

Y.
Tapton, 76.
Yew tree, 16.
Ypres Tower, Rye, 24.

Zoffany, picture by, 119.
Zucchero, 123.

LONDON :
PRrNTED BT WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET
AND CHARING CROSS,

HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 1878-9.

CONTENTS.

FOREIGN AGENTS : — mcOracken & Co.; oabe * Co.  pp. s-i
RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES : PACT
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY  ... 5
CONTINENTAL DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS . ... 41
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION Co.  ... 6
GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY  7
LONDON TO ANTWERP, "BARON OST" ........ 7
MIDLAND RAILWAY  . 8
RDBATTINO'S ITALIAN MAIL STEAMERS  »

HOTELS AND MISOELLANEOUS ADVEETISEMENTS.

PAGB. JO
10, 11n12131011
121113

ABERDEEN .
ATX-LES-BAINS .
ATX LA CHAPELLE .
ALEXANDRIA
ALGIERS .
ALVENUE-LES-BAINSAMIENSAMPHTON-LES-BAINS .
AMSTERDAMANGERS ....
ANGOULEME ANTWERP .
ATHENS

BADEN . . . 11,16
BAGNEHES DE LUCHON . 16
BALE .
BARCELONA BERLINBIARRITZ .
BIEL .
BONN .
BORDEAUX BOULOGNE-3UR-MER
BRISTOL .
BRUGES
BRUSSELS .

CAIRO .
CANNES
CHAMBER?
OHAMONIX CHERBOURG
OHRISTIANIACOBLENTZ .
' COLOGNE .
COPENHAGEN
CORFU

17

16

17.18 1818
18-22

21, 2Z
. 27
22-24. 26
. 26
. 24

PAGE

DIEPPE

. 28

DIJON .

27,28

DRESDEN .

. 29

EDINBURGH

. 28

FLORENCE .

80-31

FRANKFORT

. 31

GENEVA

SO-84

GBNOA

31

GRENOBLE .

. 22

HAVRE

. 35

HEIDELBERG .

34-37

HAMBURG .

. 36'

ILFRACOMBE

8», 37

INTERLAKEN

87-38

IRISH SCENERY .

. SB

KILLARNEY

. 38

LAUSANNE .

39, 40

LONDON

40-49

LUCERNE .

6-1, 61

LYNTON

. 61

LYONS .

. 49

MACON

. 61

MALVERN .

. 62, ca

MARIENBAD

. 61

MAYENCE .

. 68,64

MENTONE .

. 64

METZ .

. 66

MBYRINGEN

. 66

MILAN .

. 65

MOSCOW ,

. 66

MUNICH

. >e

PAGB
NICE  5T
NUREMBERG . . 67, 68

OSTEND

68

PARIS. . . .68,61
PAU  69
PENZANCE .... 69
PISA  60
PLYMOUTH ... 61
RAGATZ-LF.S- BAINS . . 60
RHEINFALL NEUHAUSEN . 62
EIGI  60
ROTTERDAM ... 68
ROUEN . . .62,63
ROYAT-LES-BAINS . . 6S

ST. PETERSBURG
SP*STOCKHOLMSTRASBURGSTRESASTUTTGARTTORQUAY . .,
TOULOUSE .
TOURS. TURIN
VALENCIA- .
VAUESBVENICEVEVEYVEYTAUX-CHILLON
VICHYVIENNA . . 70,
WTLDBAD .
wurzburs

62. 65, 66
63, 65, 67
. 64
. 68
. 66
. 63

. 65
. 67
65,68

. 70
711', 7*
71,72.78 . 73
. 74

2 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN,
38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STEEET, E.O.,
AOENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY,
AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OP 8CIENCF AND ART,
GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS,
WINE MERCHANTS,
4$cents for Bouvier's Nenchatel Champagne,
AND
FOB THB RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, &0.,
FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THC WORLD, .
Avail themselves of this opportunity to return iheir sincere ihanks to the Nobility and
Gentry for tbe patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honoured with a con
tinuance ot their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the
same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through
their hands. 
DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES,
Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owner's
absence, ai most moder * ie rates of rent.
Parties favouring J. and R. M°0. with their Consignments are requested to be particular
In having rhe Bills nf Lading sent to them direct by Post, and also ;o forward their Keys
with the Packages, as. although the c .ntents may be free of Duty, all Packages are stiU
examined by he Customs immediately on arrival Packages Bent by Steamers or otherwise
to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to ; but all Letters of Advice and bills of Lading
to be addressed tc 38, (Jdken Street as above.
AGENTS IN ENGL^ND^OFMaR. ,T, M. FARINA,
Gegenuber dem Jtjlich's Platz, Cologne,
FOB HIS
CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGNE.
MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN'S
PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS.
ALGIERS  Mr. P. Desseigne.
ALKa ANDRl A  Messrs. R. J. Moss ft Co. Mr. A. Monferrato.
ALICANTE  Mr. P. R. Dahlahdek.
ANCON A  Messrs. Moore, Moeellet, & Co.
ANTWERP  Messrs. F. Mohheim & Co.
BAD EMS  Mr. H. W. Thiel.
BASLE  Mr. Cbb. de J. Preiswere. Mr. J. J. Frey. Mr. J. Wild.
BERLIN  Mr. Lioh M. Com), Comm™. Expedlteur.
BERNE  Messrs. A. Bauer 4 Co.
BEYROUT  Messrs. Henry Heald & Co.
BOLOGNA  Messrs. Eenoli. Bdooio, 8c Co.
BOMBAY  Messrs. King, Kiko, k Co.
BORI >EAUX  Messrs. albehcht & Fils.
BOULOGNE s. M.. . . Messrs. Most & Co.
BRUSSELS  Messrs. Verstraeten De Meurs & Fils.
CALAIS   Messrs. L. J. Vogde & Co.
CALCUTTA  Messrs. J. H. Fergusson & Co.
CAIRO  Mr. A. Monferrato. ' Messrs. F. Ralph & Co.
CAN NES  Me.-srs. J. Taylor & Riddett.
CARLSBAD  Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer
CARRARA  Sig. F. Bieha™e, Sculptor.
OHKISTIANIA .... Mr. H. Hbitmann.
CIV1TA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Consulate.
COLOGNE  Mr. J. M. Farina, gegenfiber dem Jttllchs Platz.
CONSTANTINOPLE Mr. Alfred C. Laughton.
COPENHAGEN  Messrs. H. J. Brso & Sob.
CORFU  Mr. J. W. Taylor.
DRESDEN I Messrs. Sohloessmann & Schiffler. Messrs. TT. W. BiBRpwftwi.no,

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 3
M°CBACK£N'S LIST OF CORRESPONDENTS— continued.
I Messrs. French & Co. Sig. Luigi Ramaoci. Messrs. EmmW. Fenzi
Se Co. Sig. Tito Gagliabdi, Dealer iu Antiquities. Messrs.
Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs. Eyre ft Huntington. Mr. K.
Goodban, Printseller. Messrs. Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. T.
Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Bazzabti & Fig,
Sculptors, Lungo l'Arao.
FRANKFORT o. M. i Me8Br8- Bn,a- Jvm-> & Co- ***¦ $. Bohler, Zeil D, lt. Mr. G.
( JvREBS.
GENEVA  MM. Levrieb ft Pelisster.
.„„„. i Messrs. G. & E. Barchi Brothers.
ttJ!JN UA  I Mr. C. A. Wilson. Mr. H. A. Mossa, Grande AlbeTgo d'ltalia.
GIBRALTAR  Messrs. John Peacock Sc Co.
HAMBURG  Messrs. J. P. Jensen 4 Co. Messrs. Sohormsr & Teichmann.
HEIDELBERG  Mr. Ph. Zimmermann.
HELSINGFORS .... Messrs. Luther ft Rudolph.
INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J. Grossmann. Mr. ATremp. Mr. C. H. Schuh.
JERUSALEM  Messrs. E. F. Spittler & Co. Mr. M. Berghehh. Jun.
K1SSINGEN  Mr. David Kugelmann. Mr. H. F. Kugelmann.
LAUSANNE  Mr. Dubois Renou & Fils.
r faun»n $ Messrs. Alex. Macbean Sc Co. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker, Se Co.
LEGHORN  } Mr_ H Tkdmpt.
LUCERNE  Messrs. F. Knorr & Fils.
MADRAS....  Messrs. Bujny & Co.
MALAGA  Mr. George Hodgson.
£ Messrs. Josh. D arm akin '& Sons,' 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic
MALTA  i Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa, 92, Strada Sta Lucia. Messrs.
( Turnbull Jud. & Somerville.
MARIENBAD  Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer.
MARSEILLES  Messrs. Claude Clerc ft Co.
MENTONE  Mr. Palmaro. Mr. Jean Orengo Fils.
MESSINA  Messrs. Cailler, Wa lker, & Co.
(Mr. G. B. Buffet, Piazza di S. Sepolcro, No. 1.
Messrs. Featelli Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich Se Co.
Messrs. G. Bono & Co.
MUNICH  Messrs. Wimmer & Co., Printsellers, BrienDer Strasse.
NAPLES I Messrs. W. J. Turner 4; Co. Mr. G. Scala, Wine Merchant.
¦  \ Messrs. Em. Qdesta. Messrs. Cerulli & Co.
NEUCHATEL C
(Suisse). . . < Messrs. Bouvier Freres, Wine Merchants.
NEW YORK  Messrs. Baldwin Bros. ft Co.
NICE  Madame V™ Adolphe Lacboix & Co. _
NUREMBERG  Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities.
OSTEND  Messrs. Bach & Co.
PALERMO  Messrs. Ingham, Whitaker, & Co.
PARIS  Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix des Petito Champs, No. 2i.
PAU  Mr. Musgrave Clay.
PIS. (Messrs. Huguet 4; Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble.
 1 Mr. G. Andreoni, Sculptor in Alabaster.
PRAGUE  Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauem Stern.
("Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. A. Macbean &Co. Messrs.
vmunr J Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs. Furse Bros. ft Co. Messrs.
KUU&£,  < C.t.. tJ. TiV. vt... TW,.

{

Spada 8e Flamtni. Mr. J. P. Shea. Mr. A. Tombini. Mr. P.
Beanchini, at the English College.
ROTTERDAM  " Messrs. Preston 8e Co.
SAN REMO  Messrs. Fratelli Asotasciati.
ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, ft Co. Mr. C. Khdger.
STOCKHOLM  Messrs. Olsson & Wright.
THOUNE  Mr. Jean Kehrli-Sterchi.
TRIESTE  MessrB. Flu. Chiesa.
TURIN  Messrs. Rochas, Pere ft Fils.
f Mr. L. Bovardi, Ponte alle Ballotte.
VENICE . . .A Mr* Antonio Zen.
t Messrs. S. & A. Blumbnthal Sc Co. Mr. Carlo Ponti.
VEVEY Mr. Jules Getaz Fils.
f Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3.
VIENNA ¦ . . ¦ . { Messrs. J. 8c L. Lobmeyeb. Glass Manufacturers, 13, Karnthner
l Strasse. Mr. Peter COMPLorSE.
ZURICH  Mr. Orell Hess. B 2

4 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
CHARLES CARR & CO.,
14, BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHIN, LONDON, E.O.,
COMMISSION MERCHANTS,
General Agents for the Reception and Shipment of (roods from
and to all Parts of the "World,
AND
WINE MERCHANTS.
pHAELES CAEK & CO. have the honour to inform
^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT,
that they receive and pass through the Custom House in London, Liverpool,
Southampton, &c,
WORKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION,
which are attended to on Arrival under their Personal Superintendence,
with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal,
AND AT
very moderate Charges,
regulated according to the value of the Packages, and the care and attention
required.
Keys of all locked Packages should be sent to C. C. & Co., as everything must be
examined on arrival, although not liable to duty.

CHARLES OABE & OO. also undertake the
FOEWAEDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND,
which can be sent to the care of their Correspondents, to remain, if required, until
applied for by the owners ; also
THE EXECUTION of OEDEES for the PUEOHASE of GOODS,
of all kinds, which from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are
enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms.
Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering anything
they may require from London.

INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY
DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO.

Lists of C. Carr & Co.'B Correspondents can be obtained on application, bntany
houses will forward goods to them on the Owners instructing them to do so.
Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their packages
should be consigned direct to
CHARLES CARR & Co.,
14, BISHOPSGATE BTBEET WITHIN, LONDON.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
ROYAL MAIL ROUTE
BETWEEN
ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.

DIRECT TEAINS EOT TO AND FROM
LONDON (EUSTON), BIRMINGHAM, LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER,
LEEDS, BRADFORD, ETC., AND
GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, DUMFRIES,
PEEBLES, STIRLING, PERTH, DUNDEE, ABERDEEN,
INVERNESS AND THE NORTH.

\* Sleeping and Day Saloons are run between England and Scotland.
TOURISTS MAT BREAK THEIR JOURNEY AT VARIOUS STATIONS ON THE ROUTE.
To Greenock, Paisley, Wemyss Bay, the Pirtli of Clyde, and the
West Highlands of Scotland.
The Company's Trains run Daily from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, &c, to Greenock*
Wemyss Bay, &c., in connection with the Steamers ** Columba," " Iona," " Lord of the Isles,'*
and other Steamers, to Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Tarbert, Inverary,
Ooan, Iona, Staffa, Ballachulisb, Glencoe, Fort- William, Caledonian Canal, Falls of Foyers,
Inverness, Isle of Skye and Loch-Long, Loch-Goil, Kilmuh, Blairmore, Arran, &c

¦ To Stirling, Callander, Dalmally, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen,
Inverness, &c, and the North Highlands.
Trains run from Carlisle, Edinburgh, Glasgow, &c, to the North, in connection with Coaches
from Callander for Trossacbs, Loch-Katrine, aud Loch-Lomond ; from Crieff and Locbearnhead,
for Circular Tour via St. Fillans and Loch-Earn; from Killin and Aberfeldy for Circular
Tour vid Locb-Tay and Taymouth Castle; also, for Tours vid Dnnkeld, Pitlochry, Pass of
Kiiliecrankie, Blair-Athole, Inverness, Aberdeen, Isle of Skye, &c; from Tyndrum for
Blackmount Deer Forest, Glencoe and Fort- William ; and from Dalmally for Loch-Awe,
Inverary, Taynuilt, Oban, Iona, Staffa, &c.

DIRECT TRAINS BETWEEN EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW.
A full service of Trains is run by the Direct 'Route between Edinburgh and
Glasgow at the most convenient Hours of the Day.
For particulars see the Company's Time Tables and Programme of Tours.
Caledonian Eailwat Company's Offices,
Glasgow, ms. JAMES SMITKELLS, General Manager,

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADTERTISER.

General Steam Navigation Company, 71, Lombard Stbebt, and
37, Eegent Cibous, Piccadilly, London.
GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.
When the Company's Vessels cannot come alongside the Irongate and St. Katharine's
Wharf, Passengers and their Luggage are conveyed by Steam Tender to and from ihe Ships
Free of Charge.
LONDON and BOULOGNE.— The Dolphin, Rhine, Cologne. Moselle.'oi Concordia.—
Direct from and to Irongate aud St. Katharine's Wharf. From London— Daily- From
Boulogne Daily. FARES— London to Boulogne, 12s., or 8s. 6<J. ; Return (available for
One Month), 18s. ed., or 13s,
„ LONDON TO PARIS, DIRECT FEOM LONDON via BOULOGNE. ".
FARES— Single, Available for Three Days, Saloon, 1st Class Rail, 1!. 7s. id. ; Saloon, 2nd
Class Rail, 11. 3s. ; Fore Cablo, 2nd Class Kail, 19s. Sd.; 3rd Class Rail, 16s. Od. Return
(available for Fourteen Days), 21. 12s. Sd. ; 21.; 11.15s.; ll.es.
LONDON and HAVRE.— Pilot.— From Irongate and St. Katharine's Steam Whart
From London— Every Thursday. From Havre— Every Sunday. FARES (Steward's
Fee raclud.d); Chief Cabin, 13s.; Fore Cabin, 9s. Return Tickets (available for One
Month\ 20s. ed. and 14s.
LONDON and OSTEND, THE RHINE, and SWTTZERLAND.-The Swift mi
Swallow. — rrom and to Irongate and St. Kaiharine's Whuif. From London — Wednes
day and Saturday, or Sunday. From Ostend— Tuesday and Frioay. FARES (Steward's
Fee included): Chief Cabin, 18s.; Fore Cabin, 14s. Return Tickets (available for One
Month), 27*. ed. and 21s.
LONDON and ANTWERP, THE RHINE, and SWTTZERLAND.-The
Hank, Orion, harl of Aberd&tn. Falcon, Capulet, or Cosmopolitan. — Fr.,m and to Irongate
and St. Katharine's Wharf. From London — Every Tuesday , Thursday, and Saturday.
From Antwerp- Every Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday. FARES (Stewards fee
Included) : Chief Cabin, 24s. ; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return Tickets (available for one Month),
. 37s und 24s. ed. '
LONDON and HAMBURG.— The Libra, Osprey, Iris, Rainbow, Martin, Oranton,
Widgeon, Nautilus, or Alford. From London — Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
From Hamburg— Every Tuesday. Thuruday, and Friday. FARES (including Steward's
Fee): Chief Cabin, 46s.; Fore Cabin, 29s. Return Tickets (available for One Month),
68s. and 44s.
LONDON and ROTTERDAM and THE RHINE— The Tern, Florence, Maas,
Dragon, Leo, or Plover.— Krum and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf.
LONDON and AMSTERDAM, NORTH HOLLAND, and the RHINE.-The
Metropolitan, Leopard, Cosmopolitan, or Pioneer. From and to Irongate, and St. Katha
rine's Wharf.
LONDON and BORDEAUX, SOUTH OF FRANCE, THE PYRENEES, and
SPAIN.— The magnificent new Steam Ships, Kestrel and Bittern, with splendid Pa&senger
Accommodation, conBistiug of a handsome Saloon, with a commodious La-lies' Cabin, and a
comfortable Smoking Saloon on Deck, are now on this Station. Hrom and to Irongate and
St Katharine's Wharf. From London— Every Wednesday. From Bordeaux— Every
Friday. FAKES (no Steward's Fees) : Chief Cabin, sl. ; Fore Cabin, 21. Ladies taken in
the Chief Cabin only.
LONDON and EDINBURGH (Gkanion Pier). The Virgo and Penguin— From
and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf. From London — Every Wednesday and
Saturday. From Edinburgh (Granton Pier) — Every Wednesday and Saturday.
FAKES (Steward's Fee Included): Chief Cabin, 22s. ; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return (available
for One Month), 34s. and 24*. ed. Deck (So'diers and Sailors only), 10s.
LONDON AND NEWCASTLE— 1 he Wansbeck and Teal. From and to Irongate
and St. Kaiharine's Wharf. From London— Every Wednesday and Saturday. From
Newcastle— Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES : 13s. ed. and 8s. ei. Deck
(Soldiers and Sailors only), 5s.
LONDON AND HULL.— The Heron, Ostrich, or Hamburg.— From and to the Custom
Bouse Quay, Lower Tnames Street. From London— Every Wednesday and Saturday,
at 8 morn. From Hull— Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES (Steward's Fee
included) : Saloon, 9s. ed. ; Fore Cabin, 6s. ed. Keturn Tickets (available for One Month),
15s. and 10s.
LONDON AND YARMOUTH.— During the winter months there is a regular Weekly
Steamer leaving London on Thursday ;morning, a,nd Yarmouth on Sunday. During the
summer there is a special daily Bervice. FARES: Saloon, 9s.; Fore Cabin, Is. Return
Tickets (available for One Month), 12s. ed. and 10s. ed.
For further particulars apply to the Secretary, 71, Lombard Street, E.C.

18?8. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY.

THE TOURIST'S EOUTE TO THE CONTINENT
IS vid HARWICH.
Cheap and Comfortable.
The Continental Express Train leaves Liverpool Street Station, London,
for Rotterdam every evening (Sundays excepted), and for Antwerp on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, ia direct connection with the Fast
and elegantly fitted up Passenger Steamers of the Company.
The Steamers are large powerful Vessels, ranging from 800 to 1200 tons
burden, with ample sleeping accommodation ; and consequently Passengers
suffer less from mal de mer than by any of the shorter Sea Routes.
The Provisions on Board are supplied from the Company's own Hotel
at Harwich, and are unequalled in quality. Luggage can be registered
through to all principal Towns on the Continent from Liverpool Street
Station. Through Tickets are issued at —
The Great Eastern Company's West End Office, 28, Regent Circus,
Piccadilly, London, W.
Cook and Son's Tourist Office, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.
Gaze and Son's Tourist Office, 142, Strand, London, E.C.
And the Continental Booking Office, Liverpool St. Station, London, E.C.
For further particulars and Time Books apply to the Continental
Department, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C.
LONDON to ANTWERP.
BT THE FAST AND POWERFUL PADDLE STEAMER,
«B^IfcOIV OSY,»
1150 Tons burthen, built in 1875. J. VEEBIST, Commander.

This STEAMER, which is elegantly fitted up with spacious Saloons and Private Cabins,
leaves London, from IRONGATE and ST. KATHARINE'S WHARF, Tower, every
Sunday at noon, returning from Antwerp every Wednesday at noon, from 1st October
to lbt April, and 1 o'clock (alternoon) from 1st April to 1st October. Passengers walk on
board. Travellers going by this Steamer may proceed by the Railroad vid Antwerp and
Cologne to Hamburg, Berlin, Leipzie, Dresden, &c.
FABES (lnclading Steward's Fee)— Chief Cabin, 24s. ; ditto Return, available onn
Month, 31s. ; Fore Cabin, 16s. ; ditto Return, 24s. 6d. Children under lo years Half-price.
Four-wheel Carriages, £i is. ; two-wheel Carriages, £3. Horses, £3 3s.
Apply to trie Agents:
London^- Messrs. Abnati & Haebison, 11 & 12, Sreat Tower Street, E.C; and 108, New
Bond Street, W.
Antwerp.— Messrs. Hcysmans & BniGKB, 29, Brewer s Canal.
Brussels.— M. Lelotte-Towh, 88, Montagne de laCour.
Arrangements have now been made whereby the RETURN TICKETS issued bythta
Steamer are without extra payment, available by the Steamers belonging to the General
S Navigation Company? The advantage of five regular Departures per W«k each
wavbetwcen London and Antwerp is thus secured to the Public The RE TORN TICKETS
issued by the General Steam Navigation Company are available by the • Baron Osy.

8 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
M ID LAND RAILWAY.
The PICTURESQUE and FAVOURITE ROUTE
Between London and Manchester and Liverpool, and all parts of
Lancashire via Matlock and the Peak of Derbyshire.

The NEW TOURIST and POPULAR ROUTE
Between England and Scotland, via, Settle and Carlisle, is Now Open, and
a Service of Express and Fast Trains is run between London and Edin
burgh and Glasgow, with connections and 'J hrough Booking arrangements
from principal Stations in the West of England, Midland Counties, York
shire and Lancashire, and principal Towns and Places of Tourist resort
in Scotland.
Pullman Drawing-Room Cars by Day, and Sleeping
Cars by Night,
Run between London (St. Pancras Station) and Edinburgh and Glasgow ;
also between London and Liverpool and London and Manchester by the
Express Trains of this Company. These Cars are well ventilated, litted
with Lavatory, &c, and accompanied by a Special Attendant, and are
unequalled for comfort and convenience in travelling.
At London the Midland Company's Trains start from and arrive at the
St. Pancras Station, where the Company, have erected one of the largest
Hotels in the world, containing upwards of 400 Bed- Rooms, with spacious
Cuffe. -Room and numeruus Drawing Rooms, which will be found replete
¦with every accommodation.
Tourist Tickets, available for Two Calendar Months,
Are Issued during the Summer, from principal Stations on the Midland
Railway, to—
; Edinburgh, Matlock, Portsmouth, Malvern,
Glasgow, Buxton, Isle of Wight, Leamington,
Scarboro', Yarmouth, Bournemouth, Swansea,
H arrogate, Lowestoft, Torquay, Tenby,
Windermere, Dover, Plymouth, Aberystwith,
Keswick, Ramsgate, Exeter, Llandudno,
Morecombe, Hastings, Bath, Rhyl,
Blackpool, Brighton, Ilfracombe, Isle of Man,
And most of the principal places of Tourist resort in the United Kingdom.
Tickets at Reduced Fares
Are issued from May 1st to the end of October to Pleasure Parties of not
less than Six First, or Ten Third-Class Passengers, desirous of taking
Pleasure Excursions on or adjacent to the Midland Railway.
For particulars of Trams, Touiist and Pleasure Party arrangements,
•and other information respecting the Midland Railway Company, see the
Official Time Tables, to be obtained at the Stations.
JAMES ALLPORT, General Manager.
Derby, April, 1878.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9
B. EUBATMO & CO.'S
ITALIAN MAIL STEAMERS.

BOMBAY LINE.

From Genoa on the 24th of each month. 1 From Bombay on the 1st of each month.
„ Naples on the 27 ih of each month. j „ Aden on the 8th of each month.

CALCUTTA LINE.
). 15th August. I From Calcutta o
ril. 15th October. „ „ „
15th June. 15th Decern. | ,  15th May. 15th Nov

From Genoa on the 15th Feb. 15th August I From Calcutta on the 1 5th Jan. 15th July.
„ 15th April. 15th October. „ „ „ 15th Mar. 15th Sept.

SINGAPORE AND BATAVIA LINE.
Calling at Suez, Gallos, and Colombo.
From Genoa on the 1st January ; 1st April ; I From Batavia on the 1 6th February ; 18th
1st July; 1st October. | August.
From Singapore on the 20th February ; 20th May ; 20th August ; 20th November.

MEDITERRANEAN LINES.
From Genoa to Alexandria every Mon. evng. I From Alexandria to Genoa every Frl. morn.
From Naples to Alexandria every Thur. evng. [ From NapleB to Genoa every Wed. evening.
MARSEILLES, GENOA, TUNIS.
Marseilles to Genoa every Tuesday evening. I Tunis to Cagliari every Wednesday morning
Genoa to Cagliari every Thursday evening. I Cagliari to Genoa every Thursday evening.
Cagliari to Tunis every Sunday evening | Genoa to Marseilles every Sunday evening.
TUNIS, MALTA, TRIPOLI.
Tunis to Malta every Tuesday morning. I Tripoli to Malta every Friday noon.
Malta to Tripoli every Wednesday evening. | Malta to Tunis every Saturday evening.
TUNIS to SFAX.
Tunis to Sfax every Wednesday noon. | Sfax to Tunis every Saturday morning.
GENOA, CAGLIARI, PALERMO.
Genoa to Cagliari every Monday evening. I Palermo to Cagliari every Saturday evening.
Cagliari to Palermo every Thursday evening. | Cagliari to Genoa every Monday, noon.
GENOA. CAGLIARI, NAPLES.
Genoa to Cagliari every Saturday evening, j Naples to Cagliari every Friday, noon.
Cagliari to Naples every Wednesday, noon, j Cagliari to Genoa every Saturday evening.
GENOA, LEGHORN, NAPLES.
Genoa to Leghorn every Thursday evening. I Naples to Leghorn every Monday evening.
Leghorn to Naples every Friday evening. | Leghorn to Genoa every Wednesday morning.
GENOA, BASTIA, PORTOTORRES-
Genoa to Bastia every Saturduy evening. I Portotorres to Bastia every Wednesday morn.
Bastia to Portotorres every Sunday evening. | Bastia to Genoa every Thursday morning.
LEGHORN, PORTOFERRAIO-
Leghorn to Portoferraio every Sunday morn. | Portofenaio to Leghorn every Monday morn.
For Freleht. Passage, and Particulars, apply at Bombay, to CH. GRONDONA (Managing
Aeent in India! : at Alexandria, to CYARE PERRINI ; atMarseilles, to R. RUBATTINO
and CO • at London, to A. LAMING & CO., 8, Leadenhall Street; at Paris, to F. POTHET
and CO. ; at Berlin, to CH. MESSING, Gare of Potsdam; and ln other ports to the Com
pany's Agencies. R RUBATTIWO & OO. (OBNOA). B 3

19 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
ABERDEEN.
POLISHED GRANITE MONUMENTS,
From £5. Letter Cutting Accurate and Beautiful.
Best Quality Granite and Marble Work of all kinds.
Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted complete.
Plans, Prices, and Carriage-free Terms to all parts of the World, from
LEGGE, SCULPTOR, ABERDEEN".
AIX-LES-BAI NS.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Proprietor, J. BERNASCON.
T^IKST-CLASS House, admirably situated near the Casino,
the Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is
strongly recommended to Travellers for the comfort of its
arrangements. Good Gardens, with a beautiful view of the
Lake and Mountains. Large and small Apartments for Families
at moderate prices, and a Chalet in the Garden for Families
who may prefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table-
d'Hote. Open all the Year.

Carriages for hire, and an Omnibus belonging to the
Hotel to meet every Train.
AIX-LES-BAI NS.

HOTEL VENAT ET BRISTOL.
[OPEN ALL THE YEAR.
FIEST-CLASS House, and only Hotel at Aix with Calorifiere
in every Eoom. A full -view of the Lake of Bourget and Mountains.
Re-built and re-f nrnished. 100 Bed Rooms and Sitting Rooms, surrounded
by au extensive Garden and Park, with good arrangements. Nearest
the English Church, the Baths, and Casino.
Carriages for Hire at Hotel, and Omnibus waiting to all Trains.
LAWN TENNIS. G. ROSSIGNOLI, Proprietor.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11-
AIX-LES-BAINS.
GEAND HOTEL DE L'UNIYEES.
First-Class Establishment, Open all the Year.
Splendid Situation ; immense Garden ; South aspect well
shaded ; a very extended view of Lake Bourget and the
Mountains. Belvedere, with fine prospect of the principal
points of view, and Excursions.
Small and large Apartments ; Salons for Families ; Drawing
Boom, Beading Boom, and Smoking Boom, with every comfort
that can be desired. TRENCH AND FOREIGN PAPERS.
Arrangements made -for Pension. Private Carriages. Stable
and Coach-house.
Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train.
qllk. RENAUD, Proprietor.
AIXLA-CHAPELLE.
HOTEL DU DRAGON D'OR. Proprietor, Mr. B. MSllem. — This
Urge and well-known Establishment, close to tbe Kursaal, and opposite the principal
Bath Houses, has an excellent reputation for Its general comfort, cleanliness, superior
accommodation, and very moderate Charges. The Proprietor has lived several years in
England. Table d'Hdte at 1 and 5 o'clock. Carriages at the Hotel. Arrangements for the
Winter Season, from the 1st of October.
AMIENS.
HOTEL ,DE FRANCE, D'ANGLETERRE, and DE L'EUROPE.
BRULE, Proprietor. — First-Class Hotel, one of the oldest on the Continent. Situated
In the centre and the finest part of the town. Having recently been newly famished, it offers
great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient. Suites of
Apartments and Single Rooms.
OMNIBUS AT STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
AMSTERDAM.
AMSTEL HOTEL.
rHIS Magnificent First-Class House is situated near the
Zoological and Botanical Gardens, the Crystal Palace, &c. Cheerful Views
m the Am&tel River. It is provided with every comfort, and contains 200
cell-furnished Rooms and Saloons; Reading and Smoking Mooms, and a special
Ladies' Saloon. Terms Moderate.
Telegraph Office and Stables attached to the House.

12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT.

THE ALEXANDRIA
STATIONERS' AND BOOKSELLERS' COMPANY,

LIMITED.

ANDREW V. PHILIP, Manager.
English and American Publications — Tauchnitz Editions.
NEWSPAPERS RECEIVED BY EVERY MAIL.
LATEST NEWS RECEIVED DAILY BY TELEGRAPH.
GOODS FORWARDED TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD.

Agencies in the principal Cities of Europe and the United Stales.

AMPHION-LES-BAINS.
Near EVIAN (Haute- Savoie), upon the Shores of
LAKE GENEVA.
Alkaline Spring (much bicarbonated), and Chalybeate Spring Situated
in an unexceptional Situation upon the borders of the Lake of Geneva
close to all the beautiful spots of Switzerland. First-Class Hotels.'
Immense English Park. Boats upon the Lake. Carriages for Drives.
Omnibus of the Hotel
At the arrival of the Steamboats at Evian. Liue of Steamers from Geneva
to Amphion. Persons staying at tbe Hotel desiring to travel by way of
Evian, are taken free bj the Omnibus.
Telegraph Ofliee in the Hotel.

OPEN THE 1st JUNE.

G. GOUGOLTZ, Director.
Proprietor of Grand Hotel Beau-Site at Cannes.

878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. IS
ALGIERS.
KUE DU HAMMA, No. 5.
EOUSE, ESTATE, & GENEEAL AGENCY.
J. PUFFAUT famishes every information as to Villas and Apartments to be
jet, and Algerian Produce.
ANGERS-
HOTEL D'ANJOU.
M. LEROY, PROPRIETOR.
"plAMILY HOTEL.— Very fine House, situated in the centre of the
•*- Promenades. Omnibus to the Station. English spoken.
ANTWERP.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE (STROOBANT'S), Rue de l'Etuve, close to the London and
Hull Steam-Boat Wharf. This Hotel, being now entirely under a New Management,
and being newly fitted up with great comfort, is recommended to h-ngliBh Travellers, who
will find every convenience. Choice Wines of the beet Vintages. English Daily and
Weekly Newspapers. Every attention is paid to Travellers by the Landlord, Mr. Stroo-
bant, who speaks English; and, being well acquainted with the Continent, can furnish
every information required. Table d'HOte at half-past 12 and 5 o'clock. Private Dinners
at any hour.  _^_
~ ANTWERP.
HOTEL DU COMMERCE, Rue de la Bourse, close to the Exchange
aod Place de Meir. Edwabd Collin, Proprietor. This excellent Second-Class Hotel,
entirely rebuilt and newly furnished, may be, by Its moderate charges, recommended to
English Travellers. Excellent Table d'Hdte. Bedroom, 2 francs.
The Proprietor speaks English.
ATHENS — GREECE.
GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
G. STAMBOLOPULO and G. LIVADA, Proprietors.

THE Grand Hotel d'Angleterre tas been transferred to the
New House, situated on the Square of the Constitution, and opposito
the Eoyal Palace.
This magnificent and First-Class Establishment, having been built on
purpose for an Hotel, consists of more than 80 Rooms. Ladies' elegant
Sitting Rooms, Heading, Billiard, and Smoking Booms. Apartments
facing the South. Kuropean Baths, etc. It is conducted under the
immediate superintendence of the Proprietors, who endeavour, by the most
strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued
patronage of English Visitors. The Cellar and Cuisine of this Hotel have
a famous reputation.
Interpreters speaking all the European Languages.
Angelo Melissino, the well-known Interpreter to English Visitors, i»
»lso employed at ths Hotel.

14 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
ANTWERP.
HOTEL ST. ANTOINE,
PLACE VERTE,
Opposite tlie Cathedral.
rTHIS excellent FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, which enjoys the
well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been
re-purchased by its old and well-known Proprietor,
MR. SCHMITT SPAENHOVEN,
Who, with his Partner, will do everything in their power to
render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their
patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible.

BATHS IN THE HOTEL.

MODERATE PRICES.

BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE and Dependance.
AU BEAU SEJOUR. — A. Roesslee, Proprietor. This favourite and first-class
Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one ofthe most
charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of One Hundred and Sixty
Sleeping Apartments, elegant Sitting-rooms, and a Garden for the use of visitors. Extensive
and airy Dining-room, and a comfortable Public Sitting-room, with Piano and Library. It ia
conducted under the Immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the
most strict attention and exceedingly Moderate Prices, to merit the continued patronage of
English and American visitors. English and American Newspapers. The Table d'Hdte and
Wines of this Hotel are reputed of tbe best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for
everything. Rooms from 2*. and upwards.
PENSION in the early and later part of the Season,
BADEN-BADEN.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ.
HPHIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-class
Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it
commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best
Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance
and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15

BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
TjlIEST-CLASS HOTEL, one of the best situated in the Town, with
J- a Garden, and facing the Trinkhalle and Conversation House. Elegantly furnished
excellent Cooking, and moderate Charges. PENSION in the early and later parts of the
Seaeon-  CARL TILBICH, Proprietor,
BADEN-BADEN.
HOTEL DE RTJSSIE.
W. HILLENGASS, Proprietor.
THIS HOTEL is most delightfully situated near the Kursaal and
Trinkhalle. 
BAGNERES DE LUCHON.
Hotel Bonnemaison et d.e Londres,
Opposite the Springs.
Mrst-Class Hotel. Recommended to Families.
HTE. VIDAL Fils, Proprietor.
BALE.
HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS.
C. FLXJOIC, Proprietor.
OLD established and favorite First-class Family Hotel, facing
the Rhine, with long balcony. 150 lofty and airy Bedrooms and Sitting-
rooms, all well and elegantly Furnished. Every desirable comfort. Baths.
Reading and Smoking Rooms. Excellent Cuisine, choice Wines. English Chapel
in the Hotel. Omnibuses are always in attendance at the Railway Stations.
BARCELONA.
GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS.
IN THE RAMBLA.
Kept toy Messrs. FOBTIS &, CO.
THIS is a First-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to the Post-office
and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table d'H6te ; private
service : large and small apartments ; many fire-places ; baths ; reading-rooms ; Spanish
and foreign Newspapers. Carriages of every desalption. Omnibus at the Railway
Stations. Interpreters. Moderate Terms.

BORDEAUX.
HOTEL DE PARIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,
SITUATED in the Promenade des Quinconces, in the centre and most
agreeable part of the Town. Much frequented by English and American Ti avellers.

16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
BERLIN.

HOTEL DE RUSSIE.

mHIS well-known FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, newly restored
and handsomely decorated, and situated in the most
attracting part of the City, facing the Imperial Castle,
NEAR UNTER DEN LINDEN,
recommends itself for the comfort it offers to its Visitors.

CARL FRIEDRICH KUHRT.

BERLIN.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE,
2, SCHINKEL-PLACE, 2.
SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN,
Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres.
SINGLE Travellers and large Families can be accommodated with entire Suites of Apart
ments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedroums, &c. all furnished and carpeted
in the best English style. First-rate Table d'Koie, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and
Oalignani's Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers.

B. SIEBEL1ST, Proprietor.

BONN.
THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL.
THIS First-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronised by the
English Eoyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the
nearest Hotel to the Bail-way Station, and to the Landing-
places of the Rhine Steamers. The Proprietor, Mr. J.
SCHMITZ, begs leave to recommend his Hotel to Tourists.
The Apartments are comfortably furnished and oarpeted in
the best style, and the charges are moderate. Arrangements
for the Winter may be made, on the most moderate terms.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17
BIARRITZ.
GRAND HOTEL.
GARDERES, Proprietor.
SPLENDID ESTABLISHMENT. Situated in the finest
position, is recommended for its real comfort.
AU the Wintei Apartments look full South exposed to the Sun.

CHARGES EXTREMELY MODERATE FOR THE WINTER.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
BOULOGNE -SUR- MER.
HOTEL DES BAINS ET DE BELLE VUE.
Opposite the Folkestone Steamers arid Eailway Station. Carriages and
Commissionaire attend all Arrivals. Table d'Hote at 6 o'clock.
E. & C. MUNTON, Managers.
BOULOGNE -SUR -MER.
GRAND HOTEL CHRISTQL & BRISTOL
First-class Hotel.
Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended
for Families and Gentlemen.
Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats.
F. CHRISTOL, Proprietor and Manager.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
GRAND HOTEL DU NORD.
PATRONIZED by their Majesties the Emperor and Empress
of the French, and of Austria, and Don Carlos. 150 First-Class Bed and
Sitting Rooms; Reading, Music, Conversation, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Tha
Telegraph Office is in the Hotel du JSord.
GOOD STABLING AND COACH-HOUSES, &a. &o.
C. LACOSTE, Proprietor.
HOTEL PORTER AT ARRIVAL OF ALL BOATS.

18 MURRAirS HANDBOOK AUVEKTiSKK. May,
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.
FAMILY HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE.
8?, RUE NEOVE CHAUSSEIi, 87.
THIS well-known old-established House, situated in the best part of the
Town, noted for its Table, cleanliness, and good attendance, offers every accommodation
to Families aud single Travellers on moderate Terms, bv the Duy, Week, or Month.
 Proprietor— BQUTQlLLK-BRYANT.  |
BRISTOL.
ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN.
FIRST -CLASS. Central, and pleasantly situated. Very
spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private
Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-rooms. Steam Lift and
Laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Postal Telegraph Office and Post-office in the
Hotel. Fixed Charges. The Hotel Omnibus meets all principal Trains. Night
Porter kept.
I\ SWANSOM-, Manager.
BRUGES.
GRAND HOTEL DU COMMERCE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE.— This largest aud oldest Hotel of the Town
is ln high reputation by English and American Families, for its well furnished and
splendid Apartments. Excellent accommodation. Good Cuisine and Wines, special
Omnibus at the Station. Table d'H6te at 1 and 5 o'clock. Beautiful Garden.
 C. VANDENBERGHE.
BRUGES.
HOTEL DE FLANDRE.
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Table d'HSte at 1 and 5 o'clock. Beautiful
Garden. Hot and Cold Baths. Arrangements' can be made at any time during the
Year by the Week or Month. PENSION during Winter, commencing at £6 per Month.
The Proprietors of the Hotel have the monopoly of the celebrated Sparkling Rhenish Wine
'• Rheingold," and keep a Dep8t of all kinds of German Wines for exportation to England.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE LA FOSTE,
HUE EOSSE-AUX-LOUPS,
NEAR THE PLACE DE LA MONNAIE.
This Hotel, specially frequented by English and Americans, is situated in centre of
the Town, and near the principal Theatres.
BEST TABLE D'HOTE; MODERATE CHARGES.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
BRUSSELS.
HANDBOOK— Holland and Belgium. Post 8vo. 6«.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL.
TVHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every
kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of
being situated adjoining
THE PALACE OF THE KING,
and facing
THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK.
It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single
Rooms. Table d'Hote, richly served, at 6 o'Clock, after the arrival of
the latest London Day Train.
SMOKING BOOM.
BEADING ROOM, with the best Belgian, English, French,
German, and American Baily Papers and Periodicals.
Terraces, with. Splendid View overlooking the Park.
ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOB THE WTNTEB.

Mr. Dbemel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the
confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and
civil attendance, combined with moderate charges.

20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
FACING THE PARK.
MADAME VEUVE VANDEEAUWEEA has entirely re-fitted and
newly furnished tbe Hotel de France. The beautiful situation of the Hotel,
moderate Charges, and all the comfort of modern times introduced by Mme. V., will
deserve the patronage of English Travellers. Booms from 3 irancs and upwards.
Table d'Hote at Five o'clock, 5 francs.
English and all other Languages spoken.
BRUSSELS.
QBAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 77 and 79, RUE NEUVE. Admirably situated
near the Boulevards, Theatres, and two minutes' walk from the North Railway
Stations. This Establishment, which has been considerably enlarged, possesses now a moat
splendid Dining-room, and offers to Families and Single Travellers spacious, comfortable,
and airy Apartments. Tariffs in every Room.— Fixed Prices: — Plain Breakfast lfr. 25c
Two chops or steak, or ham and eggs, lfr. 50c. Table d'H6te at five o'clock, 3fr. 60c. Pri
vate Dinners from 6fr. Bed-rooms, including light, 4fr. 25c. ; 3fr. 76c. ; 6tr.— for the first
night: and for the following night, 3fr. 50c ; 3fr.; 6fr.; and 4fr. Silting-rooms from 3fr. to
12fr. Attendance lfr. per night. London "Times" and "Illustrated London News*
taken in. ^ TravelleTB having only a few hours to spend in Brussels between the departure
of the trains, can have refreshments or dinners at any hour. TheWateiloo Coach haves
the Hotel at 9.30 o'clock every morning. Private Carriages for Waterloo 28fr.( every
expense included. Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m., 5fr.
 HEKRY KEBVARD, Proprietor.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIYERS,
RUE NEUVE.

rpHIS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the centre of
the Town, opposite the new passage, near the Theatres,
the Promenade, and the beautiful Place des Martyrs, has just
been entirely refitted by the new Proprietor, Mr. Frederic
Schoeffter, well known for his long connection as Manager
of the Hotel St. Antoine, Antwerp.
The Hotel de l'Univers may now be considered as one of
the best Hotels in Brussels.

1878'  MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21
BRUSSELS.

HOTEL DE L'EUROPE,
PLACE ROYALE.
The best situation in Brussels, near the Park, Eoyal
Palace, Boulevards, and Museum.
T^IBLE r>'H6TE.
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
BRUSSELS.
HOTEL DE SUEDE.
First-class Hotel in a thoroughly central position near the
New Boulevards.
EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE. CHOICE WINES.
VAN CUTSEM, Proprietor.
CANNES.
GRAND HOTEL ALSACE-LORRAINE.
Situated BOTJLEVAED CANNET, away from the large Tea Garden.

Billiard and Smoking Booms.

F. BRANDLI, Proprietor.

22 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
BRUSSELS.
GRAND HOTEL— GERNAY,
Ancien ProprWtaire de VHdtel de Portugal a Spa.
This Hotel is close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp,
and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevard Botanique et du Nord.

SITUATION EXCEPTIONAL.

Boulevard Botanique et Boulevard du Nord.
Elegance, Comfort, and Cleanliness, with Moderate Charges.
CANNES.
GRAND HOTEL DE PROVENCE.
Boulevard du Cannet. Proprietress, English.
CITUATED on rising ground, away from the Sea. Well sheltered,
^¦> standing in ita own grounds, with beautiful views of the Town, the Isles de Lerins.
and the Ksterel. Broad Terrace, and sheltered walks in the Gardens. Lawn Tennis and
Croquet Ground. The Hotel combines the comfort and quiet of an English home with
all the accessories of a First-Class Hotel. Good Cuisine. Drawing, Billiard, and Sm'okimr
Rooms. The situation is highly recommended by medical men.
An Omnibus meets the Trains.

CHAMONIX.

HOTEL DP MONT BLANC
Enjoying an exceptional View of Mont Blanc and the Valley.
GOOD TABLE AT MODERATE PRICES.
Baths and Garden attached to the Hotel.
CACHAT, Proprietor.

CHAMONIX. ~
HOTEL DES ALPES.
Avery comfortable Hotel, with splendid View from every side of the Hon*.
First-rate Cuisine. Hot and Cold Baths in the House. Sh, French and German
Newspapers. Moderate Charges and Reduction for a long Residence. German
J. J. KLOTZ, Proprietor.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

23

CAIRO — EGYPT.

HOTEL DU NIL.
FRIEDMANN, Proprietor.

SITUATED ON THE MOOSKY
(FRANK QUARTER),
In the immediate Vicinity of all the Curiosities of the Town.
CLEAN; GOOD COOKERY; FREE FROM DUST.
APAETMEUTS EOUHD A SPACIOUS GAEDEIT.

English and Foreign Newspapers taken in.
Omnibus ancl Dragoman at each Train.
PENSION, FROM IS TO 18 FRANCS.

24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
CHAMONIX.
UNITED HOTELS COMPANY.
GEAND HOTEL IMPEEIAL, First-rate House.
HOTEL EOYAL, with Park and Observatory.
HOTELS-PENSIONS DE L'UNION et du PALAIS
DE OEISTAL.
All desirable comfort is secured in these Establishments.
BATHS. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS.
SMOKING AND BILLIARD BOOMS.
BEST VIEW ON THE GLACIERS.
First-class Kitchen and Cellar.
Tie Sulphureous Waters of Chamonix belong to the Company.
General Manager— FERDINAND EISEN REAMER.
CHAMONIX.
GRANDS HOTELS
DE LONDRES ET D'ANGLE.TERRE.
EUROPEAN REPUTATION.
FIBST-CLASS HOUSES.
Are recommended to Families for their comfort and excellent
Cookery. These Establishments are quite newly Furnished
and thoroughly put in Eepair.
Baths in the Hotel.
CEEPAUX-TAIEEAZ, Proprietor.
COBLENTZ.
GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with every Comfort. Magnificent View
of the Rhine. Moderate Charges.
Proprietor, H. HOCHE.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25

CHERBOURG.
HOTEL DES BAINS DE MER.
THE only Hotel facing the Sea. Drawing Eoom, Beading
Room, Ball Room. Military Band in the Garden twice a week.
The Bathing Establishment is attached to the Hotel.
For Rooms apply to the Director.
CHRISTIANS (NORWAY).
HOTEL SCANDINAVIE.

rPHIS beautifully-situated HOTEL is well known by the
English Nobilitj
and Moderate Prices.

English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance,

CHR. AUG. SMITH, Proprietor.

COPENHAGEN.
SKANDINAVISK HOTEL.
t>EST Position, facing King's Square (Kongens nytoro),
near the Museums; and Boats leaving for Sweden and
Norway. Newly refitted. A pleasant and Cheap Hotel,
especially for Families. Terms very moderate. No charge
for service. ENGLISH SPOKEN.
c. wajnt>ajl,:l.
COPENHAGEN.
HOTEL KONGEN AF DENMARK.
T)ECOMMENDED to English Travellers as a First-class
Hotel, beautifully situated, close to the Eoyal Palace,
and overlooking the King's Newmarket. It contains 100
newly furnished Bedrooms and Saloons. Beading Boom, Hot
Bath Eoom, Smoking Eoom, &c. Table d'Hote. Private
Dinners. English Newpapers. All Languages spoken.
Splendid Lift. Deservedly recommended. Moderate Charges.

26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
COLOGNE ON THE RHINE.
JOHAM MARIA FARINA,
GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ
(Opposite the Jiillch's Place),
PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA;
TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ;
TO H. M. EMPEROR OF GERMANY! THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA;
THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE;
THE KINS OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC.,
07 THB
ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE,
Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition
of 1867.

THE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most
part the restdt of deception practised by interested individuals, Induces me to request
the attention of English travellers to the following statement : —
The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since Its invention by
my ancestor ln the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able
to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro
cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name,
which is a very common one in Italy.
Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti
cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina*
but also tbe additional words, gegeniiber dem JitLzch's Platz (that is, opposite the Julich's
Place), without addition of any number.
Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against
being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other partieB, who offer their services
to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house,
situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the
said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where,
notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of
the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a
high price and a bad article.
Another kind of Imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters,
commissioners, &c„ offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one,
and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account.
The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is ta buy it personally at my
house, opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt
and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having In the front six balconies, of which the three
bear my name and firm, Joha/rm Maria Farina, Gegentiber dem Julich's Platz.
The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the
Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ;
that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1865 ; and received
the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in
Oporto 1865.
Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA,
GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ.
%* Messrs. J. & R. M°Cra.cken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C,
ave my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Ireland,

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27

CHAMBER Y.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely re-furnished, patronised
by Families and Tourists. Travellers going to Italy, by staying tho
night at Ohambe'ry, have the advantage of passing the Mont Cenis
Tunnel by day. 20 Baths in the Hotel. English spoken. Moderate
Charges. Arrangements made with Families. Large and small Apart
ments. Excellent Cuisine. Table d'Hote at 11 and 6.30. Hotel Porter
meets all Trains.
A. DARDEL, Proprietor.
V Places to be Visited in a Day :— AIX and HATJTECOMBE,
ANNECY and GORGES DU PIER, ALLEVARD, MONT-
NIVOLET, LA GRANDE CHARTREUSE, ETC.

CARRIAGES CAN BE PROVIDED IN THE MOTEL.
CORFU. HOTEL ST. GEORGE.
THIS First-Class Hotel is very well situated, on the north
corner of tbe Esplanade, and close to the Eoyal Palace. It is
fitted up after the English style, and is one of the most comfortable
Hotels, affording first-rate accommodation for Families and Single Gentle
men. Splendid furnished Apartments, -with Pianoforte. Hot Bath-room.
Table d'Hote ; Private Dinners. English and Foreign Newspapers .
Reading-room, Smoking-room, and Billiard-room. Magnificent Carriages
and Horses. Everything neat, elegant, and at moderate charges. English,
German, and French spoken. Under the patronage of King George the
First, the Emperor of Austria, and the Grand Duke of Mecklenburgh.
A Succursale en Pension for Families.
 S. P. MAZZUCHY.
DIJON.
HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE.
Mr. GOISSET, Proprietor.
QUITE near the Eailway Station, at the entrance of the
Town. First-Class House of old reputation. Enlarged
in 1870. Apartments for Families. Carriages for drives.
Table d'Hote and Service in private. Eeading Eoom. Smoking
Boom. English spoken. Exportation of BurgiUidy Wines.
EDMOND GOISSET.

28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May ,
DIEPPE.
HOTEL EOYAL,
PACING THE BEACH,
Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade.

LAFOSSE A^SIE.— LABSONNEUX, Succr., Proprietor.

TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS
-I- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the
Sea, Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish
ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo
dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Beading-room, with French
and English Newspapers.
The Befreshments, &c, are of the best quality.
In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion
expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books.
Table d'Hote eund Private Dinners.

V THIS HOTEL IS OPEN ALL THE TEAR.
DIJON.
HOTEL DU JURA.
MM. DAVID et MERCIER, Proprietors.
THIS Hotel is the nearest to the Eailway Station, the Cathe
dral, and the Public Garden Saloons. Apartments and Rooms for Families.
Table d'hote. Private Carriages for hire by the hour. English Newspapers.
Omnibus to carry passengers to and from each train. English spoken. The
greatest attention is paid to English visitors. Bureau de Change in the Hotel.
Considerably enlarged and newly furnished, 1875. The best Burgundy Wines
shipped at wholesale prices.
EDINBURGH.

109 and 110, PRINCES STREET.

fTHIS FIEST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL OCCUPIES THE BEST POSITION
-1 IN PRINCES STREET, immediately opposite EDINBURGH CASTLE, and com
mands Beautiful Views over the Gardens, with the Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat
in the distance. Extenscve Alterations have recently been completed, not only adding to
the accommodation, but supplying increased Residential Comforts. Special Arrange
ments made with Families or others during the Winter Months. Tariff on application
Charges Strictly Moderate. J. MEPHIUS, Manager.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

29

DRESDEN.
HOTEL BELLEVUE.
fTHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the
two beautiful bridges, facing the new Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral,
adjoining the Briihl's Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults,
contains One Hundred and fifty Front Rooms. These apartments combine elegance
and comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks
and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and
distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and
private Promenade. Table d'Hdte at one and half-past four o'clock. Private
Dinners at any hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments
for the winter, very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort
made to render their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable.
Carriages, Baths, Beading, Billiard, and Smoking Booms.
LADIES' PARLOURS.
GRENOBLE.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
PLACE GRENETTE.
SPLENDID SITUATION. DESEEVEDLY RECOMMENDED.
Moderate Charges.
BESSON, Proprietor.

T»HE MOSEL, the LOIEE, and the SOUTH of FKANCE.
-*- A Series of Forty Etchings, with Descriptive Letterpress. By
Ernest Geobse, Architect. 2 vols., royal 4to. 42s. each.
LEAVES FEOM MY SKETCH BOOK. Consisting of
Views in Holland, Germany, Italy, Egypt, and on the Nile. By
E. W. Cooee, B.A. 50 Plates. With Descriptive Text. 2 vols., small
folio. 31g. 6d. each.
JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET.

30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
FLORENCE.
Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists,
4, VIA DI BOKGO OGNISSANTI,
Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep tbe most beautiful and
rich Private Galleiy ln the City of Ancient and Modern Original Pictures, copies of the most
celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient
carved cabinets, &c. » 
ENGLISH SPOKEN.
Agents and Correspondents in England and America: —
Messrs. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, London, E.C.
Messrs. DUNCAN, SHIRMAN & CO., and Messrs. BALDWIN BKOS. * CO., New York.
FLORENCE.
BEIZZI AND NICOOLAI'S
Musical ]EfstfJl>liftjlirnoiit.
PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS,
FOR SALE AND ON HIRE.
General Depot for "Wind Instruments. Italian and Foreign Music.
Musical Lending Library.
19, VIA OERBETANI.

FLORENCE.

GRAM HOTEL BE LA MIX.
LUNG' ARNO NUOVO AND PIAZZA MANIN.
The Largest House in Florence — The Largest Hotel Saloon
in Italy. Of the 200 Kooins of the Hotel, 100 Booms and
Sitting-rooms prospect on the Lung' Arno and full South.
ANTHONY DE SALVI, Proprietor.

GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA POSTE.

Booms t G. HELLER, Proprietor.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31
FLORENCE.
HOTEL DE LA VILLE.
FIKST-CLASS HOTEL. BEST SITUATION.
FULL SOUTH ON THE LUNG' ARNO NUOVO AM)
PIAZZA MANIN.
Improved and Refurnished by its new Proprietor, it ©JEerss
now every modern comfort to Families and Single Gentleai«<.
C. AUTENRIETH.
FRANKFORT O. M.
MR. C. A. LOHR,
PKOPBIETOR OF THE ROMAM" EMPEROR HOTEL*.
Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers.
THIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate'
superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every eomforty,
and a new splendid Dining-room.
The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured hy Royal Families and otnernigb*
personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel —
UM. THE KINS and QUEEN of WURTEMBERG, H.M. THE QUEEN of HOtLANB,.
HJ.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c.
Table d'Hote at 1, 3 Mk. Breakfast, llffk. 30FC
5, £ Bit. 50 Ff. Tea, IMk. 30S1,
Bed Rooms, from lMk. 70 Ff. to SMk.
FRANKFORT.
P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS,
2KIL, Ko. 44,
BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS & CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE.
Chandeliers for Gas and Candles in Glass and Brass;.
Correspondent in England, ^
Mr. LOUIS HENLE,
3, Budge Row, Cannon Street, London, EvC.
B. A. BREMOND.
GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES.
Bv Special Appointment to H.E.H. the PRINCE OF WAlUBa.
PRIZE MEDALS. PARIS. 1867; PHILADELPHIA, 1806*
B. A. BBEMOND, Manufacturer, Place des Alpes, Genem.
Spacious Show Booms on the Ground Floor.

32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
GENEVA.

HOTEL DES BERGUES.
Vve. FEEDS BIC WACHTER, Pboprietob.

PATRONISED by the EOYAL FAMILY of ENGLAND, and by most of
the SOVEREIGNS of EUROPE.

rPHE reputation of the Hotel des Bergues for comfort, for all
the advantages a really First-class Hotel ought to afford,
and for moderate charges, is too woll known to require notice
in an advertisement.
A large Conservatory and a Lift to all the floors have lately
heen added to the Hotel.
GENEVA.
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
CHAMPEL-STJB-ARVE.
THIS Establishment, founded under tbe patronage of tbe Geneva Medical Faculty, is placed
under the direction of Dr. Glatz. The variety and perfection of its machinery, as well as
the immense Medical value of the Arve Waters, render it especially adapted to Invalids who
wish to put themselves under a regular course of Hydropathic Treatment. The illnesses
which are essentially cured by these waters, are :— Decline, Clilorosis, Nervousness, Hysterics,
Hypochondria, Uterine Complaints, Rheumatism, Neuralgy, Sciatica, &c, &c.
Contiguous to the Hydropathic Establishment, aud in the same grounds, is the
GRAND HOTEL PENSION BEAU-SEJOUR,
Remarkable for its most healthy situation, on a grassy eminence. Its splendid panoramic
view, its extensive walks shaded by magnificent trees, and its proximity to the Town
(ten minutes), make it a most delightful summer residence. Excellent Kitchen. Prices
moderate. English comfort.
Proprietors: NIESS and PASS.
GENEVA. ~~
GBAND HOTEL BEAU EIVAGE.— First-class Hotel, with
. a new Addition, a large Garden, and Terrace. It is the largest Establishment in the
town ; it contains 300 Bedrooms and Saloons. Splendid view of the Lake Leman and Mont
Blanc. A beautiful Lift. MAYER and KTJNZ, Proprietors.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33

GENEVA.
hCtel de la metropole.
THIS splendid Modern Hotel enjoys an extensive celebrity for its beautiful and
J- admirable situation on the Promenade in front of Lake Leman, opposite the English
Garden, the Bridge of "Mont Blanc," and the landing-place of the Steamers. Under the
active superintendence of the new Manager, every attention is given to contribute to the
comfort and satisfaction of the Visitors.
300 Booms and Saloons, Private Saloons, beautiful Conversation Saloon.
Beading Boom, Smoking Boom, &c.
TaMe d'Hote at Six o'clock.
GENEVA.
HOTEL DE LA COURONNE.
yve. f# BAUE, Peopeietor.
HTHIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first rank, completely
J newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the " Pont du Mont-
Blanc," enjoys a most extensive view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc.
Every attention is paid to the comfort and wishes of families and gentle
men. Good Cusine and Cellar. English and American Newspapers.
Most moderate Prices. Omnibus waiting at all the Trains.
GEN EVA.
A. GOLA7, LERESCHE & SONS,
31, QUA1 DES BERQUES,
(Established in 1837.)
MANUFACTURERS OF
WATCHES, JEWELRY, CLOCKS, &c.
Largest Stock in Geneva.
ORDERS PER POST PUNCTUALLY ATTENDED TO.
Pari3 House, No. 2, RUE DE LA PAIX.
GENEVA.
GRAND H6TEL DE LA PAIX. J. Kohlbb and H. Tbiesohmann,
Proprietors. American Breakfasts.— Buckwheat Cakes. — Fish Balls, &c. &c.
FIEST-CLASS HOTEL. PROVIDED WITH A LIFT.
From the Twenty Balconies adorning this Hotel, the most Splendid Panoramic View In
the whole of Switzerland may be had.
GENEVA.
GRAND HOTEL DE RTJSSIE AND ANGLO-AMERICAN HOTEL
This splendid Modern Hotel commands the finest uninterrupted view of Mont Blunc
and the whole scenery of the Alps. First-rate Establishment, with every modern accommo
dation. Charges very moderate. A. ADRION, Proprietor. C 3

34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
GENEVA.
HOTEL NATIONAL.
A. RUFENACHT, Proprietor.
ONE of the largest and finest Hotels in Switzerland. Large
Garden, Verandah, and Terrace, commanding an extensive view of
Mont Blanc and its Chain. The Two Lifts. Alone on the Bank of the
Lake. TELEGRAPH AND POST OFFICE IN THE HOTEL.
Reduced Prices for piotracted stay.
Pension in "Winter Season.
GENEVA.
TJOTEL PENSION EICHEMONT. Taidin des Alpes,
Opposite the Duke of Brunswick's Monument. 50 Rooms, all faeing the
Lake and Mont Blanc, newly furnished, and most comfortable. Baths on each
floor. Terms : from -6 to 8 franes per day, everything included.
 A. R. ARMXEPEB, Proprietor.
GENOA.
GRAND HOTEL DE GENES.
Messrs. L. BONERA AND BROTHERS,
(PLACE CARLO FELICE, the most beautiful situation in the' City.)
HPHIS magnificent and First-Class Hotel, formerly the Palazzi Marchese
-*- Spiaola, wari newly opened and entirely re-furnished about two years aga > its
Htuation, opposite tie celebrated Theatre "Carlo Felice," and in the vicinity of the English
Cburch, the Pot Office, and of the principal Public Buildings, and free from the noise of the
Railway and the unpleasant odours of the Port, contributes to render this Hotel a most
desirable residence. Large aud small Apartments, fitted up in the most elegant style.
Table d'H8te. Heading and Smoking Booms. Baths, &c. Omnibuses irom the Hotel meet
every Train.
HEIDELBERG.
DREXEL'S HOTEL "SCHRIEDER."
THIS First-class Hotel is opposite the Central Station, and on the right
on leaving. This favourite Hotel, thoroughly renovated and newly and elegantly
furnished, is replete with every comfort. A number of large and small apartments, Six
Private Sitting Rooms, 120 Bed-rooms, Toilet Rooms, Baths, Beading-rocms, furnished wilh
the Times, Galignani, etc. 'Ihe pilncipal front of the Hotel Schrieder is surrounded by a
fine galden with well-lald-out grounds, and enjovs a lovely position. Fresh air and pretty
view of these rooms overlooking the Uastle and Konigstuhl. 'I he Booms are perfectly quiet ;¦
no smoke, no noise ol tbe trains. An excellent Table d Hote at One and Five o'clock. The
bc,t Cuisine and choice Wines. All Hoti'l charges at a fixed Tariff. Honoured by the visit
of Utneral Grant, July, w>1. Arrangements by the Week. Pension in Winter.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. SS
HAVRE.
GRAND HOTEL DE NORMANDIE.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.
M. DESCLOS, Proprietor.
EUE DE PAEIS, 106 & 108; EUE DE L'jaOPIT.&Ev 711.
THIS well-known First-class Hotel has 90 Chambers,, an alias;
just been enlarged and newly decorated. Situated' in the*
most central points of the Town, near the Exchange, THeatre,
Telegraph-office, Post, and Town-hall ; in proximity -wit!> the^
Steamboats for Caen, Trouville, Honfieur, Southampton, andr
the Dock of the General Transatlantic Company, this: Hbtell
offers every advantage and comfort to Travellers and Twarists.
FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT AND TABLE VMSTE'..

Apartments for Families. Music and Conversation Sahon,.
Private Booms for Dinners.
ENGLISH, GERMAN, AND FRENCH SPOKEN;
HEIDELBERG. "
HOTEL EUROPE.
THE finest and best situated Hotel in Heidelberg ; kept in very superior and elegant style -
of a First-class Family Hotel. The beautiful extensive Gardens are for tbe exorasive use-
of the Visitors, Hot and Cold Baths fitted up in a superior manner in the HoteK Omnibus*
at the Station. Terma strictly moderate. " HAEFELI-GTJJER, Proprietor
HOMBURG. ~
HOTEL BELLE VUE.— First-Class Hotel, exceedingly well situated*.
opposite the Park of the Kursaal, and close to the SpringB. Jtnglista an* American
Families, and Single Gentlemen, will find ihis Hotel one of the most comfortable,, combining
excellent accommodation with cleanliness aud moderate Charges. BeBt French and English.,
Cooking. Excellent Wines. Hare and Partridge Shooting free,
 H. ELLENBEROER, Proprietor. 
HOMBURG.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. — First-rate for Families aad dingle-
Gentlemen, close to the Springs and the Kursaal; one of the finest and best situated Hotels in the
town. Newly enlarged (115 Rooms, 14 Balconies, some overlooking the fine- Tannus Mountains): It has.
been patronised by His Boyal Highness the Prince of Wales, and several other Eoyal personages. Tae
Proprietor, who has been for years in first-class hotels in London, offers Visitors the advantages of good and
comfortable accommodation. Airy and quiet Apartments. Splendid covered Verandah, and fine Oarden. At
the early and bite part of tbe Season arrangements are made on very reasonable terms. All tbe Attendants
Bpeak English. Best French and English cooking. Excellent Wines, Good Fishing ; Hare and Partridge-
Shooting free. Moderate Charges,  GTJ3TAVE WEIGAWD, Proprietor.
Irish Scenery and Manners ; the Ribbon Conspiracy, &c.
LAURENCE BLOOMFIELD IN IRELAND:
A Narrative Poem in Twelve Chapters.
By WILLIAM ALL1NGHAM, Author of " Songs. Ballads, and Stories," ftc. Mee is. 6ii.
MACMILLAN, LONDON AND CAMBRIDG E.

36

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISEF.

May,

HEIDELBERG.

HOTEL PKINCE CHARLES.
SOMMER & ELLMER, Proprietors.
CONSIDERABLY enlarged by a New Building. Contains a splendid
Dining Boom, Breakfast Boom, and a fine Beading Boom. Tea Balconies. This
Hotel, patronised by their Highnesses the Prince of Wales and Prince Alfred, is the
largest in the Town, and thoroughly Renovated and Newly Furnished.
BEST COOKERY. GOOD WINES.
Charges reasonable. Moderate Arrangements made by the Week.
The Hotel is situated in an open Square, eight minutes' walk from the celebrated Castle,
with the finest view of the ruins from all the balconies and nearly all the windows ; two
minutes' walk to the Necker Bridge. Close to the Nurnburg and Wurzbnrg Railway
Station. Omnibus and Hotel Porter meet the Train.
Mr. Sommer exports Wine to England. Mr. Ellmer was for many years the Manager
of tbe Hotel Baur au Lac, at Zurich.
ij^* Railway Tickets can be obtained at the Bureau of the
Hotel, and Luggage booked to all Stations.
_______ _
"IfcOY^JL, CLARENCE "
FAMILY & COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
Complete with every Home Comfort.
Ladies' Coffee Room. Moderate Charges.
E. LAKE, Proprietor.

Livery Stables. Post Horses. Omnibus meets every Train. General Coach
Office and Delivery Agent. Wine and Spirit Merchant.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

37

HEIDELBERG,
GRAND HOTEL.

CLOSE to Railway Station. Opened since let Jane, 1877. Forty-two Balconies, com
manding magnificent views. Cold and Warm Baths. Carriages. Park. Winter
Garden. Ninety Rooms and Saloons, elegantly arranged. Terraces and Verandahs.
Billiards. Ladies' Saloons. Heated with hot water pipes. This Hotel is newly-built,
situated in the best part of tbe Town, commanding a most beautiful view, and ls to be
highly recommended. First-rate attendance guaranteed. Omnibus to the Station.
 WILH. BACK, Proprietor.
~~ " ILFRACOM BE-
THE ILFRACOMBB HOTEL stands in its own Grounds of Five
*¦ Acres, extending to the Beach, and the Private Terraces afford ths finest Sfarlne Promenades attached
to any Hotel in the Kingdom. 260 Booms, Appointments perfect. Cuisine excellent. Wines choice. Table
d'BGte daily. Charges Moderate. Tariff on application to Manager, Ilfracombe, North Devon. Accessible
from all parte by Steam and Bail. (See Time Tables.)
ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE.
Be-decorated and Re-furnished. Good Public Booms. Moderate Terms. Address the Manager.
INTERLACKEIM.
J. GROSSMANN,
SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTUEEE OF SWISS
WOOD MODELS AND OENAMENTS,
Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design,
HIS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof,
where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be
found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere.
Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street,
Cannon Street, E.C., London..

38 MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
INTERLAKEN.
HOTEL-FEIVSIO]X, JUNGFKAU.
F. SEILEB-STEBCHI, Proprietor.
HTHIS Establisbment, with two Branch Houses, is situated in
the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the
Jungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its
delightful position as well as for its comfortable accommodation.
TABLE D'HOTE AT 2 & 6.30 O'CLOCK.
DINNERS A LA CARTE.
CARRIAGES, GUIDES & HORSES FOR MOUNTAIN
EXCURSIONS.
OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
Patronized by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; by H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR, on
bis Visit to Ireland ; and by tbe Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c
THIS HOTEL is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water's edge, within
ten minutes' drive of tiie Railway Station, and a short distance from tbe far-famed Gap of
Dunloe. lt is lighted with gas made on the premises; and is tbe Largest Hotel in the
district. A magnificent Coffee-room, a public Drawing-room for Ladies and Families,
Billiard and Smoking-rooms, and several suites of Private Apartments facing tbe Lake,
have been recently added.
TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON.
Cars, Carriages, Boats, Ponies, and Guides at fixed moderate charges.
Drivers, Boatmen, and Guides are paid by the Proprietor, and are not allowed to solicit
gratuities. The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains.
THEEE IS A POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE.
Hotel open, throughout the Year. Boarding Terms from 1st Nov. to 1st May.
. lt is necessary to inform Tourists that the Railway Company, Proprietors of the Railway
Hotel in the Town, send upon the platform, as Toutersfor their Hotel, the Porters, Cab-drivers,
Boatmen, and Guides in their employment, and exclude the servants of the Hotels on the
Lake, who will, however, be found in waiting at the Station-door.
JOHN O'LEABY, Proprietor.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39
LAUSANNE.

HOTEL GIBBON.
Mr. EITTEB-TEABAUD, Proprietor.
THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the finest part of the
-*- Town, is in every respect very highly recommended. Splendid View over
the Lake in all its extent.
Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel.
PENSION DURING THE WINTER.
LAUSANNE.
HOTEL RI<CHEMONT.
TVEIS HOTEL stands in its own Grounds, in a situation of
-*- Great Beauty, commanding an extensive view of the Lake of Geneva,
Mountains, and surrounding country. Reading, Drawing, Conversation, Billiard,
and Smoking Rooms. The Accommodation is First-class in every respect.
Three Minutes from Station and centre of the Town.
PENSION IN WINTER.
LAUSANNE-OUCHY.

HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE (OUGHT).
Director, A. MARTIN-BUEENACHT.
THHIS splendid Establishment, constructed on a grand scale,
is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the shore
of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an English Park and
Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English
Church. REDUCED PRICES FOR THE WINTER SEASON.
Constant communication with the City and Railway Station
by Omnibus.
Baths, Telegraph,, and Post Office in the Hotel.

40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,

LAUSANNE.
HOTEL ET PENSION DU FAUCON.
FIRST-CLASS LARGE HOUSE. Fine View on the Lake. Prices Moderate.
Every Comfort. A. RAACH, Proprietor.
LONDON.
DINNEPORD'S FLUID MAGNESIA.
rpHE Medical Profession for thirty years have approved of this pure Solution of Magnesia
-1- as the beat remedy for acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, Gout, and Indigestion ; and as the
best mild aperient for delicate constitutions, especially adapted for Ladies, Children, and Infants.
D1NNEFORD & CO., CHEMISTS, 172, NEW BOND STEEET, LONDON.
And of all other Chemists throughout the World.
LONDON.
THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Cir
cular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable
in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Airica, and
North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no
charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same
places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the
Branches, viz.: Westminster Branch . . 1, St James's Square.

Bloomsbary
Southwark
Eastern Marylebone
Temple Bar
Lambeth
May, 1878.

214, High Holborn.
6, High Street, Borough.
130, High Street, Whitechapel.
4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street
217, Strand.
, 89 &91, Westminster Bridge Road.

Thresher's Kashmir Shirts.
Thresher's India Tweed Suits.
Thresher's Kashmir Sleeping Suits.

Thresher's Jungra Shooting Suits.
Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts.
Thresher's Travelling Trunks.

Sold onit bi
THRESHER and GLENNY
(Next Door to Somerset Housed .
GRANT'S MORELLA CHERJtY BRANDY,
AS SUPPLIED TO HEE MAJESTY AT ALL THE EOYAL PALACES,
And to the Aristocracy and Gentry of the United Kingdom. The delicious product of the
famed Kent Morellas. Supersedes Wine in many households. A most valuable Tonic. 42s.
nett per dozen, prepaid. Carriage free in England. Export orders under bond.
GRANT'S MORELLA CHERRY BRANDY,
"THE SPORTSMAN'S SPECIAL QUALITY."
60s. nett per dozen, prepaid. Carriage free in England.
This quality, which, please observe, is not supplied it/riless distinctly ordered, contains more
Brandy and less Saccharine than the above " Queen's Quality,'* and has been specially pre
pared for the Hunting Field, &c. Order through, any Wine Merchant, or direct of
T. GRANT, DISTILLERY, MAIDSTONE.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41

LONDON.
Important to the Travelling Public.
PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT.
THE CONTINENTAL
DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS,
Known on the Continent as "L'Agenoe Continentale,"
(Established 1849),
IS by Special Convention in DIRECT CORRESPONDENCE
with THE BELGIAN GOVERNMENT RAILWAY, THE IMPERIAL
GERMAN POST, THE SWISS FEDERAL POST, and THE NORTHERN OF
FRANCE RAILWAY, for the Conveyance by Mail Steam Packets, Twice Daily
(Sunday excepted), via Dover-Ostend, and Dover-Calais, and rapidly by Rail and
Post to destination, of Sample Parcels, Packages, and Luggage of all kinds, also
Bullion, Gold and Silver Coin, and Value Papers generally, between England and
every part of the Continent. The Through Rates for Carriage and Insurance,
which are very moderate, and include all Charges, except Duties and Entries, are
to be had gratis on application. Parcels should be boohed as follows .—
HOMEWARD.— From the Continent.
Germany. At any Post-office of the Imperial German Post; or of the Countries
in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Russia, Denmark, Sweden,
Norway, &c.
Switzerland. At any Post Office in the country.
Belgium. At the State Railway Stations, and any of VAN Gend and Co.'s Offices.
At Brussels, 90 A, Montague de la Cour, A. CEOOT, Agent; or they
can be sent direct to Mr. De Riddeb, 29, Hue du Quai, Ostende.
Holland. In the principal towns, Van Gend and Loos.
Important. The Address of every Parcel, and especially the Waybill •' Bordereau
d' Expedition, Frachtbrief, or Lettre de Voiture," as the document is
variously termed, should bear the words " Service de 1'Agence Con
tinentale via Ostende."
France. Paris, E. D'Odiardi, IS, Rue Bergere. To whose care also Parcels
for conveyance to England can be consigned from towns beyond Paris,
with advice by Post. Also to P. Bioeault, at 23 Rue Dunkerque,
opposite the Gare du Nord.
Note. — No Parcels or Luggage sent from the Continent to England should be addressed
Poste Heitante, or to be left at any Hotel or Railway Station, as they are never taken in .
They can be addressed Bureau Bestant, Friend & Co., Continental Express, Dover; or to
the Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, London.
OUTWARD— To the Continent.
In London. At Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge,
Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at
23, Regent Street, W„ or 300A, Oxford Street, W.
In Country Towns. At the Agency of the Express in Liverpool, Manchester,
Sheffield, Hull, Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Nottingham,
Derby, Huddersfield, Southampton, Dover, and Folkestone.
From other Towns in Great Britain, where there is no Agent ofthe
Express, Parcels should be sent under cover to D. N. Bridge, at above
address, with advice of exact contents and value by Post.
»T -o _lper8onB wishing to send or to obtain Goods of any kind from Belgium, can do so
tbroueh this Express, " Contre Remboursement," i.e. Payment of the Amount of Invoice on
driiverv of the Parcel. Insurance Kates moderate.
Lonboh • Chif.f Office, 53, Graoeohubch Strbet. May, 1878.

42

MDRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

By Appointment to H.R.H.

The Prince of Wales.

AND STRONG DRESS BASKETS,
With Secure Locks for Continental Travelling.
37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C.
New ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE of 500 ARTICLES for
TRAVELLING, POST FREE.

ALLEN'S PATENT.
BAG.

ALLEN'S PATENT
DESPATCH-BOX SESE.

ALLEN'S PATENT
Quadruple Portmanteau.

ALLEN'S SOLID LEATHER COPPER
10 GUINEA SILVER RIVETTED PORTMANTEAU. ALLEN'S VICTORIA
DRESSING BAG. Secure Lock. DRESSING BAG

ALLEN'S NEW
DRESSING BAG.

SILVER FITTED
GLADSTONE BAG.

LADY'S WARDROBE
PORTMANTEAU.

Also Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, Post-free.
(PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED )
FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

43

TOURISTS, TRAVELLERS,
AHD OTHERS EXPOSED TO THE SOT AND DUST,
Will find the application of
ROWLANDS' KALYDOR
both cooling and refreshing to the face and
skin. It allays all heat and irritability of
the skin, eradicates ' eruptions, freckles, tan,
and discolourations, and realizes a healthy
purity and delicacy of complexion.
Price ds. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle.
ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL
an Invigorator, Purifier and Beautifier of
the Hair beyond all precedent.
Price 3s. 6d. ; Is. ; 10s. Gd., Family Bottles
equal to 4 small ; and 21s.
ROWLANDS' 0O0NTO
Or Pearl Dentifrice, bestows on the Teeth a pearl-white
Whiteness, frees them from tartar, and imparts to the gums
a healthy firmness, and to the breath a pleasing fragrance.
Price 2s. 9d. per box.
Sold by Chemists and Perfumers. Aak for " Rowlands' " Articles.

Sold by all Chemists, Druggists, and Perfumers, every
where on the Continent.

Ash for ROWLANDS' ARTICLES of 20, Hatton Garden, London,
no others being genuine.

44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
LONDON.
HEAL AND SON'S
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE,
WITH PRICES OF
BEDSTEADS, BEDDING,

AND

BEDROOM FURNITURE.
SENT FREE El POST TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD
ON APPLICATION TO
195, 196, 197, & 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD,
LONDON, W.

N.B. — The largest House in London for Bedsteads,
Bedding, and Bedroom Furniture.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

45

LON DON.

NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND.

ESTABLISHED IN THE TEAS 1833.

Head Office— BISHOPSGATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET.
St. James' Branch— 212, PICCADILLY.
St. Marylebone „ 53, BAKER STREET. ;
Islington „ 218, UPPER STREET.
Lincoln's Inn „ CAREY STREET, W.C.

Capital
SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL ...
PAID-UP CAPITAL 
RESERVE FUND 
No. of SHAREHOLDERS

£3,112,500 0
1,687,500 0
900,000 0
... 4,856.

Directors.

The Most Hon. The Marquis or'AiiESBony.
John Oliver Hanson, Esq.
John Kingston, Esq.
Henry Pauix, Esq.
John Stewart Esq.
Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart.

Richard Blanet Wade, Esq.
Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke.
Duncan Macdonald, Esq.
George Hanbury Field, Esq.
Alex. Robertson, Esq.
R. Wigram, Esq.

E. ATKINSON, Esq-, Bon. Director.

The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerons branches in England and
Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to
parties transacting Banking business with it. Customers keeping accounts with the Bank
In town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted free of
charge. Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual
terms of London Banks. . , ,,
Deposits at interest received in London, for which receipts are granted, called Deposit
Receipts;" and interest allowed according to the value. of money from time to time as
advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. _ .
The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken.
Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks; and Dividends, Annuities,
&c received for customers.
Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent
and elsewhere. , ., „ ,. „ . , . .
At the Country Branches, Deposits are received, and all other Banking business is con
ducted on the usual terms. .... ,. ¦ ,.
The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers.
OoDles of the last Annual Report of the Bank, List of Shareholders, Branches, Agents,
andljorrespondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank s
Branches. order of th(J D|rector8|
WM. HOLT, 1 Jniwb

46

MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

LONDON.

CHUBB'S LOCKS & SAFES.

CHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from
picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for
every purpose to which a Lock can be applied.
Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, &c, fitted with
only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have tiie place of these supplied by
Chubb's Patent without alteration or injury.
Travellers' Lock-Pbot ectors and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that
may be found fastened only by common Locks.
CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes ln
Morocco or Russia Leather and Japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended
for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates.
Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with
Chubb's Patent Locks. Gash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions.

MAKERS TO THE
BANK OF
ENGLAND.

CHUBB'S NEW PATENT SAFE,
WITH THICK FIRE-KESISTING LINING AND SOLID WED9E-RESISTING
FRAME.
PATENTED 1874.

Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures,
with testimonials gratis a/nd post-free to any part of the world.
Speoimens, in three Classes, at the Paris Exhibition, 1878, viz.:—
SAFES, LOCKS, AND ART METAL WORK.
 Sia 
CHXJBB & SON,
128, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, ST. PAUL'S, E.C;
And 68, ST. JAMES'S STREET, PALI MALL, SAW., LONDON.
Also at 28, Lord Street, Liverpool; 68, Cross Street, Manchester; 104,
New Street, Birmingham ; and Horseley Fields, Wolverhampton.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

47

JOSEPH GILLOTT'S
CELEBRATED
STEEL PENS.

SOLD BY ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.
""""" '/*,

Every Packet bears the facsimile
Signature,

TEN EXHIBITION PRIZE MEDALS.
Frys Cocoa
FRY'S CARACAS COCOA in packets and tins,
specially recommended by the Manufacturers, is prepared
from the celebrated Cocoa of Caracas, combined with other
choice descriptions.
" A most delicious and valuable article." — Standard.
Frys Cocoa
FRY'S EXTRACT OF COCOA— "Which really
consists of Cocoa Nibs deprived of superfluous oil, than
which, if properly prepared, there is no nicer or more
wholesome preparation of Cocoa." — Food, Water, and Air,
Dr. Hassall.
J. S. FRY & SONS, BRISTOL AND LONDON.

48

MURRAFS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

%

»

SURGEON-DENTIST, 57, GREAT RUSSELL STREET, LONDON,

«¦

PAMPHLET
POBWAEDED GEATIS & POST IEEE.
TESTIMONIAL.

(Immediately opposite the British Museum)
Has obtained HER MAJESTY'S EOYAL
LETTERS PATENT for his improved
PA I N LE S S
Method of adapting
ARTIFICIAL TEETH BY
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE.

£

ffi

Mt Dear Sir, — Allow me to express my sincere
thanks for the skill and attention displayed in tbe con<
structton of my Artificial Teeth, which render my mastication
and articulation excellent. I am glad to hear tbat you hare
obtained Her Majesty's Royal Letters Patent to protect what I con
sider the perfection of Painless Dentistry. In recognition of your
valuable services you are at liberty to use my name. S. G. HUTCHINS,
Ib G. H. JONES, Esq. By Appointment Surgeon- Dentist to the Quem.

FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES.
Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in
England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France.
WILLIAMS & NORGATE
have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :—

1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE.
2. THEOLOGICAL CATA
LOGUE.
8. FRENCH CATALOGUE.
i. GERMAN CATALOGUE.
S. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC
CATALOGUE.
6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE.
7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE.
8. SPANISH CATALOGUE.
9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi-
tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books.

10.

NATURAL HISTORY
CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo
tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe
matics, &c.
11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE.
Medicine, Surgery, and tne Depen
dent Sciences.
12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele
mentary Books, Maps, &c.
18. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU
LARS. New Books, and New
Purchases.
14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU
LARS. New Books and Recent
Purchases.
ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP.
WILLIAMS & NOE.GATE, Importers of Foreign Books,
14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and
20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

49

PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE,
W. J. ADAMS & SONS, 59, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C.
Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports,
pOUNTRY or LONDON Residents,
Vj oy forwarding a Banker's Application, or
Certificate of Identity, can have a PASSPORT
and VISAS obtained. By this arrangement, a
personal attendance is unnecessary.
Cost of Passport, 2s. ; Visas, Various, according
to Consulate Charges.
Fee obtaining Passport, 1*. 6d. ; Visas, 1*. each.
Passports Movmted and Casfd, with Names
lettered in Gold
Passport Cases from ls. 6d. to 5s. 6d.
THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS.
BRADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS
to France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany ,
Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). Tourist's Handbook to Great Britain,
&c., in four parts, is. each. Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and
Australia, 65.
Bradshaw's Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German,
l*. each. Baedeker's Handbooks. Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's Pyrenees.
Kbllar's, Leuthold's, and Ziegler's Maps of Switzerland. Mate's Map of the
r Tirol. Harper & Appleton's Handbook to Europe and the East. Black's Guides
to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. Phrase Books
and Dictionaries. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags,
Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, Lamps,
Telescopes, Flasks, Caps, Pic Nies, Insect Powder, &c.
Experienced Couriers engaged upon application.
TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS.
DORRELL AND SON'S PASSPORT AGENCY,
CHARING CROSS, S.W.
Passports Mounted
and enclosed in Cases

15,
British Subjects visit-
inn the Continent will
save trouble and expense
by obtaining their Pass
ports throngh the above
Agency. No persons
attendance is required,
and country residents
may have their Pass
ports forwarded through
the post. A Form of
Application forwarded i
by Post

with the name of the
bearer impressed in gold
on the outside ; thus af-
Yording security against
injury or loss, and pre
venting delay in the
frequent examination of
'he Passport when tra
velling.

Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. 6d. ; vitas, ls. each. Cases, Is. Sd. to 5s. each.

LYONS.
HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS.
OPPOSITE THE STATION. FULL SOUTH.
The Landlady and her Sons speak English.

50 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
LUCERNE.

SGHWEIZERHOF. LUZERNERHOF.
First- class Hotels.

HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors.

BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY.
With splendid View of the Celebrated Panorama of the
LAKE AND MOUNTAINS.
LUCERNE.
GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL.
SEGESSER BROTHERS and C™., Proprietors.
THIS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most
comfortable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lake, with the
finest views. Every attention paid to Tourists.
A LIFT FOR THE USE OF VISITORS.
LUCERNE.
PENSION NEU SGHWEIZERHAUS.
rpHIS First-Class Establishment is most beautifully situated in the
J- midst of charming fields, on an elevation, about five minutes from the Town, with
a commanding view over the Lake and Mountains. The Establishment is well recommended
by the first medical authorities from its healthy situation, and the very a>ry and lofty
Apartments and arrangements of the House. Testimonials of the highest character and
recommendation frum i- nglish, American, and German Families are open f r inspection
The House is most conveniently arranged both to receive Families or Single Visitors Jt
contains Apartments fur about 100 persona; large Saloons with covered Verandahs, a Bath
JToom, a nice shady Garden, and a Farm belonging to tbe Kstablishment is available for
those who want to take advantage of New Milk. Terms per day, including Bed Hoom
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner, are from 6 to 9 francs. Pension for not le6s than 3 days'
from 6 to 9 francs.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51
LUCERNE.
Englischer Hof— Hotel d'Angleterre.
Pkopeietok-^JEAN REBER.
fpHIS First-rate Establishment, very well recommended by
A the best class of Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' Landing-place, and vis-a
vis tbe Railway Stations, on the loveliest position of the Lake, with superb views of the
Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 comfortable Rooms, Smoking
and Reading Rooms, where are French and English newspapers. Omnibus at the Station.
MODERATE PRICES.
LUCERNE.
SWAN HOTEL.
THIS HOTEL, in the very best situation, enjoys a high character.
Mr. HjEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years a great many improve
ments, and does his utmost to offer to his Visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new
Ladies' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, Warm, and
Shower Baths. 
LYNTON (NORTH DEVON).
THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL.
THIS favourite and beautifully situate Hotel, which has lately had
extensive alterations, additions, and improvements, combines with moderate charges all
necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splendid
Table d'Hdte and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, Ladies' Drawing Room, and several Private
Sitting Rooms, range in a long front overlooking the sea, and looking into the extensive
private grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands uninterrupted views of the
Bristol Channel, the Tors, and the Valleys of the East and West Lynns, and the coast of South
Wales, &c. The Hotel is also most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the
places of interest in the district. Post Horses and Carriages. Also the very best kind of
Stabling, &c.
 JOHN CROOK, Proprietor.
MACON-
G-BAND HOTEL DE L'EUBOPE.
First-Class House, five minutes from the Station. Veuve BATAIL-
LA.RO and FELIX GUENARP, Proprietors. Admirably situated on the Banks of the
Saone,with splendid View extending to the Alps and Mont Blanc. Central position between
Paris, Italy, and Switzerland. The Wines of Macon supplied in Hampers and Casks.
MARIENBAO.
HOTEL KLINGER.
Proprietor, J. D. HAI-BMAYB.
T^IBST and LAKGEST HOTEL in this Watering Place.
J. Preferred on account of its charming situation at the corner of the Pro
menade and Park, and has a beautiful view. Newly and elegantly furnished with
every comfort and in noble style, containing, with the dependance, 270 Rooms,
Saloons, &c.
Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to the Bailway Station. d 2

52

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

MALVERN (GREAT).

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL

rpHIS Hotel oontains upwards of one hundre'd bedrooms,
-4- drawing-rooms, bed and dressing-rooms, and closets , en suite, a ladies' coffee-
room, a gentlemen's coffee-room, table d'hote, reading and billiard-rooms, &c, &c.
The building is surrounded by its own ornamental grounds, flower gardens,
lawns, and terraces, and commands unequalled views of the whole range of the
Malvern1 Hills on one side, with the expansive and charming valley scenery of
Worcestershire, bounded by the Bredon and Cotswold Hills on the other.
Of Great Malvern — the salubrity of the air and the purity of the water its
invigorating effects in summer and winter, and the beauties of the place— it is
superfluous to speak. As a winter residence, also, the dryness and high tempera
ture of Malvern is shown by contlusive and trustworthy testimony, and is
con6rmed by comparative tables of winters in other localities.
To meet the wishes of numerous Visitors to the Hotel, the Proprietors have
decided to take Ladies and Gentlemen as Boarders during the season, on the terms
stated in the tariff, which will be forwarded on application.
The new Stables belonging to the Company are now open, and comprise first-
class accommodation for horses and carriages. Carriages, saddle-horses, and flys
may be had at the Hotel.
A Covered Way conducts the Visitor from the Railway Station to the Hotel.
Porters attend every train, to convey Passengers' luggage to the Hotel.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53
MALVERN.
THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL.
npHIS old-established Hotel stands on tbe slope of tbe Hills
¦*- in the higher part of the Town, and from its Bay Windows and
Garden the best views are obtained.
COFFEE EOOM FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
Post Morses and Carriages of aU descriptions.
MISS FLIGHT, Manager.
KUR-HOUSE MAGGLINGEN,
One hour above Biel, at the foot of the Chasseral.
3000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.
Climatic Mountain Spa. Pine Woods. Whey and Goat-milk.
Large Selection of Mineral Waters. Baths and Shower Baths.
Panorama of the Alps : Mont Blanc to Santis. Grand and exten
sive Park Grounds, many Promenades. Post and Telegraph Office.
Carriages at the Dep6t.
Proprietor, ALBERT WAELLY,
HOTEL ZUR KRONE, BIEL (SWITZERLAND).
MAYENCE.
HOTEL DE HOLLANDE.
FEED. BUDINGEN, Proprietor.
THIS Eirst-class well-known Hotel, much frequented by English Families and
Tourists, has been greatly enlarged and improved, and contains now 140
Rooms and Saloons. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. English comfort. This
Hotel is situated on the River, opposite to the Landing-place of the Rhine
Steamers, and near the Railway Station, and affords from its Balconies and Windows
splendid views of the Rhine and Taunus Mountains. This Hotel is reputed for its
excellent cooking, exquisite Wines, cleanliness and good Attendance. English
Newspapers. Choice Rhine and Moselle Wines, wholesale and for exportation.

54 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
MAYENCE.
H6TEL D'ANGLETEBRE.
G. HUMBERT, Proprietor, Wine Merchant.
THIS First-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated
^ in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the
Eailway Stations. Its Balconies and Rooms offer Picturesque Views of the
Rhine and the Mountains, Baths, Reading Room. Times, Illustrated News, &c. &c,
taken in. The Table-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and the Gennine
Rhenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. H cmbert exports to England at
Wholesale Prices.
MENTONE.
GLERIGY'S HOTEL DES ANGLAIS.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
Beautifully Situated, and combining every English Comfcrt.
Moderate and Fixed Prices.
M ENTONE.
HOTEL WESTMINSTER.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT.
BUILT and furnished with taste and according to the latest
improvements. In a Southern aspect overlooking the Sea, and a
beautiful Garden giving access to the public " Promenade du Midi."
Large Public Saloon. Billiard and Smoking Rooms.
ENGLISH AND SEVERAL FOREIGN LANGUAGES SPOKEN.
OMNIBUS TO And from thb railway station.
MENTONE.

HOTEL DU PAVILLON AND PRINCE DE GALLES.
FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT,
SITUATED in the healthiest parts of Mentone, and com
manding a fine View of the Town and tbe Sea, and combining every
Enghsh comfort with moderate charges. Pension 8 francs a day.
H. SCHMUCKLE, Proprietor.

1878- MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

55

M ETZ.
GEAND HOTEL DE METZ.
First-Class Hotel, recommenddble in every respect.
PATRONIZED BY H.RH. THE PRINCE OP WALES.
TABLE D'HOTE AT 11, 1, AND 6 O'CLOCK.
Moderate Charges. Omnibus to and from every Train.
ENGELMAN, Proprietor.
MEYRINCEN.
HOTEL AND PENSION DU SAUVAGE,
OPPOSITE the Post and Telegraph Offices. Magnificent View upon the Glacier of
Rosenlau, and other high Mountains. Illumination ofthe Alphach every evening during
the season. Attentive servants. Excellent cuisine. Moderate prices. English Church
near the Hotel.
M I LAN.
HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGIE
E REICHMANN.
Proprietor, J. LEG NAM" I.
THE House is situated in the centre of the Town, near the Cathedral and all
other Places of Interest. Good Table d'Hote. The Times, &c. Several
Langaages spoken. The House is only two Storeys high. Five minutes' walk
from the English Church.
Omnibus at the Station to meet all Trains.
MILAN.

GKAND HOTEL DE MILAN.
200 Eooms and Saloons, with every comfort and requirements
of the present day.
Pension in the Winter Months.
V THE ONLY HOUSE AT MILAN WHICH HAS A HYDRAULIC LIFT.
J. SPATZ-WttKMS.

MILAN.
HANDBOOK — NORTH ITALY. Post 8vo. 10s.
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

56

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

MOSCOW.
HOTEL STADT BERLIN.
THE largest and most comfortable Hotel, situate in the centre
of Moscow near the great Theatre and the Kremlin, with
all modern improvements. Hot and Cold Baths. First-class
Attendance. Charges moderate.
All European Languages Spolcen.
EOJDESTWINKA STREET.
E. LEHMANN, Proprietor.
MUNICH

m

BAVARIAN HOTEL,. HOTEL DE BAVIERE.
OTTO PLOECKEE, Proprietor.
EXCELLENT First-class Hotel. Finest and healthiest situation on the Promenade Platz,
near the Eoyal Theatres and Galleries. Every modern Comfort. Baths and Carriages
hi the Hotel. Best Cooking and Wines. Moderate Charges. Personal management by
tbe Proprietor. 
MUNICH.
WIMMER & CO.,
OAtlEKY OT FIJfE J1KTS,
3, BRIENNER STREET,
Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallebv of Fiue Aeis, containing an
Extensive Collection of
MODERN PAI NTI NGS
by the best Munich Artists.
PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS.
Correspondents ln England, Messrs. J. & E. M°Cbackeii, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street
E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, MeBsrs. Baldwih Bkos. & cl
JK, Broadway, New York. v",,>

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

HOTEL OE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE.
JARDIN PUBLIC.
(Limited Company.)
PULL SOUTH.

J. LAVIT, Manager.
HKST-OLASS and WELL-KNOWN HOTEL.
Central Position, splendid View of the Sea, and Public Garden.
Charges very Moderate, and affixed in each Room.
TABLE D'HOTE. (One of the Best at Nice.)
Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all Trains.
NUREMBERG.
SCHLENK'S HOTEL OF THE GOLDEN EAGLE.
Facing the Kriegerdenkmal (Monument for the Fallen Soldiers.}
HTIHIS First-Class Establishment has recently been con-
-'- siderably enlarged and most elegantly re-fitted up. lt contains
beautiful A partments, English and Foreign M ewspapers, and recommends
itself for its excellent Cuisine and choice Wines. Carriages.
Omnibus at the Station.
L. SCHLENK, Proprietor.
NUREMBERG.
RED HORSE HOTEL
(Rothes Ross).
Proprietor, M. P. GALIMBERTI. Manager, M. BAUER
THIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the
best quarters of the Town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families
makin" a visit to Nuremberg of some duration, and who will find every
conceivable comfort and convenience. Table d'H6te at 1 p.m., and Private
Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of
the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English Travellers of the
highest rank during many years.

58 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
NU REMBERG.
HOTEL DE BAVIEBE,
Pbopbieteess, Mes. G. P. AUINGEK.
'PHIS First-class Hotel is situated in the middle of the Town, close to the
¦*- River. It is highly patronized by English and American Families. Every
comfort and Moderate Charges. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel.

Omnibuses to andfrom each Train. Carriages in the Hotel.

ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE HELD EVERY SUNDAY IN THE HOTEL.
OSTEND.
HOTEL Royal <le Prusse.
H. Hillebrand, Proprietor. First-Class Hotel, about fifty yards from
the Sea Dyke, and in immediate vicinity of all the places of amusement.
Table dHote at 5 o'clock. Omnibus at the Station and Landing-place.
Vnder the same Management,
CrrfaxidL liotel <Iu. Littoral.
This First-Class Hotel, facing the Sea, is delightfully situated on the
most fashionable and celebrated walk,." Digue de Mer," overlooking the
Baths, Harbour, and nearest to the new Kursaal. Dinners at any hour.
OSTEND.
HOTEL DU GRAND CAFE.
HTHIS well-known, old-established Hotel, situated on the Place
¦1 d' Armes, opposite the Casino, close to the Sea, the Kursaal,
the King's Palace, and the English Church, is highly recom
mended to English Travellers for its comfortable and clean
Apartments, good " Table d'Hote," and excellent Wines. Good
Attendance. Eeading-room. J. and O. THOMA, Proprietors.
The Hotel is open all the year. Omnibuses to andfrom each Train.
PARIS;
HAYET'S METHOD OF LEARNINGS LANGUAGES.
Admitted at the PARIS EXHIBITION of 1878.
First French. Book. Practical LessonB for Beginners, ls. 6d.
French Class-Book. Part I. Complete Elementary Course in 1 vol 4s
French Class-Book. Part II. Syntax and Idioms. 3s. ed.
Le Livre du Maitre, or Key to both Parts. 6s. ed.
French Studies. Conversations, Extracts from Standard Writers. 6s. ed.
French Composition. English Prose to be done into French. 38. ed.
Household French. A Conversational Introduction. 3s.
Havet's German Series. I. First German Book, i». ed. IL German Studies is
III. German Composition, 3s. ed. Key, 4s. '
V Anglais enseigne aux Framgais ( English for French People). 3s. ed.
Lohooh : StMPiUN, Marshal!. 8r Co. | Paeis: Galighani & Co. 324 rue de Rivoli.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

59

PAU.
MAISON ETCHEBEST, Passage Raymond Plante, No. 2.
A BOARDING-HOUSE, in a central position, Established
¦f* 17 years, and conducted by an English Lady. Detached House.
South Aspect. Public and Private Sitting-Eooms. Meals at a General
Table. Apply to the Proprietor.

PENZANCE.

SEA-SIDE FAMILY HOTEL.

QUEEN'S HOTEL.
(On the Esplanade.)
Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland.

THIS magnificent Hotel has recently been greatly enlarged, entirely
re-arranged, and handsomely furnished, having, a frontage of over 170
feet, all the rooms of which overlook the Sea. It is the only Hotel that
commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount's Bay. Apartments
en suite. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of
its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to
invalids. Ladies' Coffee Room. Billiard Room. Hot and Cold Baths.
Table d'Hote at 7 o'clock.
An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches. Yachts, &n.
HENRY BLACKWELL, Proprietor.

60 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
PI SA.
HOTEL GEANDE BRETAGNE.

THE BEST HOTEL LN PISA (see Murray's Handbook of
Central Italy), opposite the New Bridge "Pont Solferino,"
leading direct to tbe Leaning Tower. Patronised by Henry
Wadsworth Longfellow, whose recommendation is written in
the Visitors' Book of the Hotel.
Fifty years established, and known for its great comfort.
Splendid Terrace, with view of the Surrounding Country and
Cathedral. Full South on the Arno, with a nice Garden.
Next to the English Church.
A. MENESINI & Co.

Special Terms at Moderate Prices for the Winter Season.
PISA.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL,
LUNG' ABNO.
D. PIEGAJA, Proprietor.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Clean. Great attention to the wants and comforts of
Travellers. Recommended. Banking Office in the Hotel.
RAGATZ-LES-BAINS.
SCHWEIZERHOF HOTEL AND PENSION.
A FEW steps from the Baths. Newly opened with every convenience for English and
Americans. Billiards. English Papers and English (a-ames. Pension 1 fr. a day, all
included-  Proprietor, G. JAKLE.
RXGI-KULM.— HOTEL SCHREIBER
THIS HOTEL built during 1873-1874, by the proprietors of the Hotel
and Pension, Rigi-Staffel, is open since the 1st June, 18Y5. Its magnificent situation
commands the most splendid view of the mountains and the plains. It is near the Station
of Vitznau and Arth, and offers all the modern comforts of the best first-class hotels. Jt
contains 160 bedrooms and saloons, most of them heated, 45 balconies, 2?0 beds, a vast
vestibule with a large stone staircase, a large dining-room, conversation room, ladies' saloon,
reading room, a "restaurant," "cafe," and billiard room.
The proprietors will spare no trouble to deserve for this Hotel the confidence of travellers,
which they haye enjoyed at the Hotel and Pension Rigi Staffel for so many years.
Food, Wines, and Beds all first-rate. Terms moderate.
ROOMS FROM 2 TO 5 FRCS. EACH PERSON.
EOOMS can be PEE-ENGAGED by LETTEE or TELEGRAM.
SCHREIBER FREUES.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

61

PLYMOUTH.
DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL.

Railway Terminus— Plymouth, Devon (Postal Telegraph Office). First-Class Family Hotel,
Table d'H6te daily. Mrs. C. H. BUDD, Manager.
PARIS.
HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES
ET D'ANGLETERRE.
229 Avenue de l'Opera.
Founded in 1854, formerly 8, Rue d'Antin.
Mr. LEQTXEU, Proprietor.
Splendid Situation between the Tuileries and the New Grand Opera.

The most comfortable Family Hotel, being built specially,
Patronised by tbe English Aristocracy.
EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE.
Reading Smoking, and Billiard Rooms.
Baths. Lift, with every precaution against Accidents.
Moderate Charges.

62

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

RHEINFAL.L NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN.

HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Pbopeibtoe, Me. WEGENSTEIN.
THB HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to English visitors as
one of tbe best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged, and is now a splendid
first-rate establishment.
The SCHWEIZERHOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and snr-
rounded by a fine park and garden. The position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance
of above 180 miles — a panoramic view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the
Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing. Prices moderate.
Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen.  __
ROUEN.
GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE,
RUE DES CARMES.
THE longest established in the Town, much patronised by the French Nobility.
Situated in a central position near the Public Buildings and Theatres. Grand Saloons.
Spacious Bed-rooms tastefully decorated. Families will find , every comfort and Special
Service. Prices moderate. Excellent Table d'Hfite at Six o'clock. Much frequented.
Price 3 fr. 50 c. English, German, and Spanish spoken.
 ME. SOULE, Proprietor.
ST. PETERSBURG.
ENGLISH BOARDING HOUSE,
Proprietor, Mr. GONET, 44, Nevsky Prospect.
COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS.
Moderate Terms.
All Languages spolceix.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63
ROTTERDAM.
H. A. KRAMERS & SON,
IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN BOORS.
Mr. Mtjkbat's ' Handbooks for Travellers,' Bradshaw's Monthly Kailway Guides, Bae
deker's ' Keisehandbucher,* and Hendschel's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. English, French,
German and Italian Books imported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store.
.  26, GELDEESCHE KAPE, 26. 
ROTTERDAM.
VICTORIA HOTEL.— This Hotel, opened in May, 1869, and built expressly for an
Engllsb Hotel, is situated in the centre of the Town (West End ). on the most fashion
able Promenade of Rotterdam, just opposite the Landing-place of all the Steamers to and
from hngland. The Booms spacious and airy, are elegantly Furnished, and English
Travelers will find here every desirable comfort, combined with tbe most civil Attendance
and moderate Charges. Table d'H8te. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. English,
French, and German spoken. Mr. J. TYSSKN will spare no pains to deserve the patronage
of EngliBh Travellers.
ROYAT-LES-BAINS.
GrUAND HOTEL.
SEEVANT, Proprietor.
Fibst-class House. English spoken.
_____ _
GEAND HOTEL D'ANGLETEKBE, on the Quay, Mr.
LtOlU SOUCHARD, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. DEL AFOSSE. — This Hotel is
distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c. ; and the new Proprietor has entirely
re-fitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoking-Boom. It is situated on the Quay facing
the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and the magnificent Scenery
encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will find at this first-rate
Establishment every comfort — airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments and Wines of the best
quality at moderate Prices. An excellent Table d'Hfite at Six o'clock, price 3 fr. 50 c.
Restaurant it la caaie.
Mr. Souohard speaks English, and has English Servants,
An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. SOUCHARD.
SPA.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
Proprietor, HENEAED EICHAED.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid Situation. Fine Apartments. Drawing and Reading
Room. Every comfort. Spacious and handsome alterations bave been lately made.
Omnibus of the Hotel at the Arrival of every Train.
_________
HOTEL I>_ JP-A_RIS.
FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, magnificently situated near the Cathedral, in the most beautiful
part of tbe Town. Large and Small Apartments, and Single Rooms for Gentlemen.
Reading-room and Smoking-room. Table d'Hdte and Restaurant. Every Modern Comfort,
combined with Moderate Charges.  Proprietors, L. QSTERMANN & CO.
STUTTGART.
PENSION HAUSSMANN,
27, Blumenstrasse, 27.
DELIGHTFULLY situated in the finest and healthiest part of the City, in the vicinity
of the Theatres, Palaces, and Schools. Well adapted for Families. Moderate Terms. ,

64

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.

GRAND HOTEL.
THIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City,
between Charles the Xllth's Square and the National Museum, on
one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and
the Baltic.
The Eoyal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on
the opposite side of the Harbour. The Eoyal Opera and the Principal
Theatres are in close proximity.
The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views
of the City.
The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience,
and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most com
fortable Hotels on the Continent.
The Building contains Four Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides
Dining Eooms, Sitting Eooms, Coffee and Eeading Eooms, a Billiard Room
a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Eetiring Eooms, a Laundry and other
accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts.
All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to
all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found
to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels.
Tlie Hotel Rydberg.
Gtjstaf Adolf's Toeg.
THIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to' Travel
lers. It contains One Hundred and Fifty Sleeping Apartments.
The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer
every advantage to strangers visiting the Swedish Capital.
R. CADIER,
Proprietor qf the Grand Hotel and the Hotel Rydberg.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 65
S PA.
TjOTEL D'YORK. — This Hotel is one ofthe oldest in Spa, particularly frequented
HT x. bj, ^.n8lish Travellers, and the best in the locality. It is exceedingly well situated in
tne healthiest and pleasantest part of the town, close to the Casino, the Promenades, and the
Boulevard des Anglais. The apartments are comfortable, airy, and command the finest and
most varied views of the mountains. The Omnibus of the Hotel runs regularly to and from
„.e,. lway station. awaiting every Train. English, French, and American papers. Table
d'H6te at S o clock.— LARDNER, Proprietor. 
ST RES A. (Lake Maggiore.)
__ (The most beautiful Summer Residence,} ,
HOTEL ET PENSION DES HES BOEEOMEES.
A FIEST-CLASS Hotel, situated on the most charming point of the
borders of the Lake. From its magnificent position, shaded from the snn during
the greater part of the day, it enjoys a very mild temperature in all seasons, and freshness
even during the great heats of summer. A large Garden and Baths. Bureau of the Swiss
Post Office and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. The English Church is held in the Hotel.
ST. PETERSBURG.
HOTEL DE FRANCE.
M. CEOISSANT, Proprietor.
SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE
CITY, AT THE POLICE BRIDGE,
AND NEAR THE WINTER PALACE,
THE MINISTRY OP FINANCE,
THE FOREIGN OFFICE, THE WAR OFFICE,
AND THE ADMIRALTY.
Visitors will find every modern luxury and comfort.
BATH AND CARRIAGES MAY BE HAD AT THE HOTEL.
TO U LO U S E.
GRAND HOTEL SOUVILLE (Place du Capitole).
KEPT by M. DARDIGNAC, Restaurateur. A First-class House, one of the best-situated
in the Town, close to the Grand Theatre, Post and Telegraph Offioe. Is to be recom
mended from its good Attendance. Most comfortable Apartments, SaloDS, and Bedrooms.
Kestaurant at fixed Prices, or a la carte. Private service for Families. Baths and Private
Carriages in the Hotel. Carriages and Omnibus enter the Courtyard of the Hotel. 
TURIN.
GRAND HOTEL DE LA LIGURIE
Transferred since tne 1st January, 1875, to the
sumptuous
PALAIS BOASSO,
PLACE BODONI.
Splendid Establishment in the style of the first Hotels of
Europe.

6fi

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

May,

ST. PETERSBURG.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE,
ST. ISAAC'S SQUARE.
(Gostinitza Angleterre, Issakofski Sabor.)

H. SCHMITZ, Proprietor.

lilt ' " \m
'hotel D' angleterre
1 h iibi ruiiuui « liijftjuiunpiBtBii
liiiWlliiili ' i s 'LijMliiJM

11111] Mjf"
iii

HTHIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in the centre
A of the City, facing the St. Isaac's Church, near the Post-office, the Royal
Palaces and Public Buildings, affords large suites of well-furnished Apartments
for Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen. A large
Dining-room where Dinners are served from Three till Seven o'Clock, from
one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-room. The ' Times,' and
other English, French, and German Newspapers.

HOT AND COLD BATHS, TUBS, AND SITTING BATHS.
Guides and Servants speaking English.
Omnibuses at the Stations, and Steamboats near Landing-places from Stockholm
and England.
THE QUEEN'S MESSENQERS FREQUENT THIS HOTEL.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 67
SPA.
GRAND HOTElTlRITANNIQDE. F. LEYH, Proprietor.
PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM,
And maintains a high reputation among the Aristocracy of
Europe.

SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN.

LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATHS.
Joining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church.

ENGLISH SPOKEN.

OMNIBUS AT EACH ARRIVAL.
TOURS.
GRAND HOTELlE L'OHIVERS.
PLEASANTLY SITUATED VPON THE BOULEVARD.
This Hotel, which has a European reputation,
IS SPECIALLY AKEANGED AND MANAGED
FOR THE RECEPTION OF FOREIGN FAMILIES
"Who visit Tours.

English Spoken.

68 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
TORQUAY.

HOXAL HOTEL.
OLD-ESTABLISHED FIEST-OLASS HOTEL, for Families and
Gentlemen. Public Drawing Koom and handsome Suites of Apart
ments overlooking the Sea. South Aspect. Omnibus meets every Train.
Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m. Spacious Billiard and Smoking Saloon.
Proprietor, W. G. KING.
Manager, N. MOORSHEAD.
TURIN.
GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.
PROPBIETOES—
Messrs. BORATTI and CASALEGGIO.
Situated. Place de Chateau, opposite the
JEting-'s Palace.
(Five minutes from the Railway Station.}
THIS unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel recommends itself to
the notice of English Travellers.

EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE AT 5i O'CLOCK.
BATHS IN THE HOTEL.

Interpreters speaking all the European Languages.

Charges Moderate. The Times Newspaper. An Omnibus
from the Hotel will be found at every Train.
VALENCIA (SPAIN).
HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE MADRID.
Kept by Mr. OABLOS CAN TOV A d'HYOS.
THIS First-rate Establishment, situated on the Villavroza Square,
No 5, has been entirely re-fuinished with eveiy modern comfort and luxury, and now
offers the most desirable residence to Eugllsh Travellers visiting this Fine Climate. Suites
of Apartments ior Families irom the lowest prices to 50 fr. a day. 'Excellent Cuisine aiid
good Attendance. Foreign Newspapers. English, French, and Italian spoken. Baths, &c.
Ihe Hotel is close by the PoBt Office, the Theatres, and the best Promenades. Board and
Lcdgmg, with Light and Service included, 30 Keais per day for Single Travellers : but
with Sitting Eooms for Families, from 60, 80, to HO Reals per day.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. (?9
VARESE. (Lombardy.)
GRAND HOTEL VARESE.
In direct communication by Eail with Milan and Lake Maggiore,
Lake of Como, and Lugano.
"PIEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the best and healthy part
¦*- of Lombardy, 1,320 feet above the sea, commanding the
most extensive views of the Alps, Monte Eosa Chains, Lago
Maggiore, Yarese, and Monte Viso.
An extensive Park and Grounds with Grottoes, etc., surround
the Hotel. Grape Cure during the Season.
200 WELL-FURNISHED ROOMS and SALOONS.
Visitors are certain of meeting with every possible comfort.
Public drawing-room. Eeading -room. Ladies' room and Music
Saloon. Billiard and Smoking room, etc.
Baths on each floor. English Church in the Hotel. Pension
all the year round.
SKATING RINK IN LARGE SALOON.
D. MARINI, Manager.
VENICE.

GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.
(Formerly REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.)
KEPT BY EMILE THOM A.

THE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, sumptuously
furnished, most conveniently situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the
principal Theatres. 180 Bedrooms, splendid Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-
room with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smoking-room. Baths of every description,
great comfort and cleanliness. Excellent Cooking. Charges more moderate than
in any other First-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension.
English spoken by all the Servants.

70 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
VEVEY.
h6tel des trois couronnes.
F. S0H0TT, Proprietor.
THIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to
the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is
extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining sotne
time will find this a most desirable Residence ; and from October 15 to June 1
they can live here moderately en pension. The largest and finest Salle a Manger
in all Switzerland.
VEVEY.
G-EAND HOTEL.
(One of the Largest in Switzerland.')
FIEST-CLASS HOUSE, provided with a Lift. Special Steamboat Landing for the Hotel,
Station called Corsier. Omnibus at all Trains. Pension in Winter.
 A. HIESCHY, Proprietor.
VEYTAUX-CHILLON.
HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.
TIIGHLY RECOMMENDED on everv account. Quite near the Chillon Railway
xl- Station, and the Landing Stage of Terrltet. Splendid View. Pension. Moderate
Prices. Close to the English Church.
 F. PORTSCH, Proprietor.
VIENNA.
^ ATTGTTST KLEIN, \^
By Appointment Purveyor ^
*~~ ' To the Emperor of Austria, to the Prince of Walks, to the ^H
f=r| Ejno of Spain, and to the King of Portugal. ^m. .
-, The Largest Manufactory on the Continent
>— I OF ,— |
m FANCY LEATHER & GILT BRONZE GOODS, Al
AND ALL KINDS OF BAGS, ^
Which Articles are not to be equalled in novelty, finish, and M
£H variety.
t/2 *** Particular attention is called to the exact name of the Firm KH
"AUGUST" KLEIN, as there are Dealers of the same name r*
p in Vienna, as well as in Paris, who sell inferior qualities of 1-H
goods under the name of Klein. t.
Manufactory . VIENNA. Neubau, Andreasgasse, No. 6. "
0 I VIENNA. Stadt Graben, 20 only. I-H
Depots . ¦ ¦ < PARIS. Boulevard dea Capucines, 6 only. y-j
<q [ LONDON. 75, Wimpole Street, W. Wholesale. ^
N.B. — Free admission is granted to all Persons wishing to visit the
Manufactory.

1878.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

71

VICHY.
View of the Grand Hotel des Ambassadeurs at Vichy-les-Bains.

pEAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEtTES, Situated on
VT the Park. — This magnificent Hotel is now one of tbe first in the town. It is managed
in the same style as the largest and best hotels on the Continent. By Its exceptional situa
tion, the house presents three fronts, from which the most beautiful views are to be bad ; and
from its balconies is heard the excellent Band of the Casino. The Hotel contains 200 Eooms,
20 Saloons, a Saloon for Banquets, capable of holding 500 persons, and a large and fine Dining-
room, 200 covers, a Smoking-room, and 2 Billiard Tables. Large and small Apartments for
Families. English and Spanish spoken. Interpreter. The Omnibus of the Hotel awaits
all the Trains at the Station.

VIENNA.

J. & L. LOBMEYR,
GLASS MANUFACTUBEBS,
Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria,
No. 13, KARNTHNEBSTKASSB.
The most extensive Establishment for Bohemian Crystal, Fancy
Olass, and Chandeliers.
Every variety of Glass for Household use, Ornament, and in Art Work-
manship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-glasses. Chandeliers,
Candelabras, in Crystal and Bronze.
LARGE SHOW BOOMS TJP-STAIRS.
The prices are fixed, and are very moderate— English is spoken.
Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M°Cracken, No. 38,
Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C, London, will transmit all orders with the
greatest care and attention.

72

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

$Iay,

VIENNA.

GRAND HOTEL,
No. 9, KAERNTHNERRING.
TN the most elegant and frequented place of the City, in immediate
¦*¦ vicinity of the Eoyal and Imperial Opera and Burg Theatres ; of
the City Theatre and the Comic Opera ; of the I. and R. Hofburg, the
I. and R. Treasury, the I. and R. Museums of Natural History, Coins
and Antiquities ; of the I. and R. Picture Gallery in the Belvedere ;
of the Ambraser Collection ; of the I. and R. Volks-garden ; of the
City and Rathhous Parks, the Society of Artists, and the Hall of the
Musical Union.
300 Rooms, from one florin upwards. Apartments from six florins
upwards. Splendid Dining-room, decorated with frescoes. Restaurant.
Drawing and Smoking-rooms. Reading-room, with all home and
foreign Journals. Baths and Telegraph Office in the house. Lift to
all floors. Dinners and Suppers a la carte and per head, at 1 fl. 50 c,
2 us., 3 fls., and upwards. Table d'Hote at 2 fls. 50 c. Arrangements
for Board.

OMNIBUSES TO ALL THE RAILWAY STATIONS.

1878.

MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

73

VIENNA.

HOTEL METKOPOLE.
ROOMS from fl. 1.

WILDBAD.

HOTEL KLUMPP,
Formerly HOTEL DE L'OTJRS.
Me. W. KLUMPP, Pbopbietor.
THIS First-class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed-rooms, with a separate
Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking
Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant. Dining Room : an artificial Garden over
the river, is situated Opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the imme
diate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for Us elegant and comfortable
apartments, good Cmsine, jnd Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an
excellent Hotel. Table d'HSte at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers
a la carte. Exchange' Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of
London forthe payment oifi Circular Notes and Lettersof Credit. Omnibuses of the
Hotel to and from each Train. Fine Private Carriages when requested. Warm
and Cold Baths in the Hotel.

EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION.

;.

34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May,
VICHY.
GRAND HOTEL DU PARC.
THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL,, situated in the Park, facing the Baths,
Springs, and Casino,
PRIVATE PAVILION F0R~ FAMILIES.
^  QERMOT, Proprietor.
________
HOTEL KRONPRINZ,
FACING the Eoyal Palace. High and Comfortable Apartments. Table d'Hote. Beading
Room. Cold, Warm, and Douche Baths in the Hotel at any time. Omnibus at
the Station.
^  JULIUS AMMOIf, Proprietor.
ZURICH.
HOTEL DE L'EPEE au lac.
MOST beautifully situated in the midst of the Town, with a mag— —cent view over the Alpe, lake, and
Glaciers. Entire] y new and completely restored.
Proprietor: Ch. HORAT.
Principal Features.— Excellent beds, greatest cleanliness, beet kitchen, attentive service, moderate prices.
German, EDglioL, French, Italian, and American newspapers. These languages are Bpoken in the Hotel.
Dinner ai every hour. Omnibus -at the Station.

HANDBOOKS OF PAINTING.
i.
With 140 Illustrations. . 2 vols., Crown 8vo., 80s.
THB ITALIAN SCHOOLS. Based on the Handbook
of Kugler. " Originally Edited "by the late Sie Charles
L. Eastlake, E.A. fourth Edition. Eevised and Eemodelled
from the most recent Eesearches. By Labi Eastlake.
II.
With 60 Illustrations. 2 vols,, Crown 8vo., 24*.
THE GERMAN, FLEMISH, and DUTCH SCHOOLS.
Based on the Handbook of Kugler. Originally Edited by
the late Dr. Waagen. Third Editiqn. Eevised «nd in part
re-written. By J. A. Ceowb, Author of "The, History of
Italian Painting." JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1878. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 75
IMPORTANT TO THE
TRAVELLING PUBLIC.

THE
ORIGINAL COURIERS' AGENCY.
ESTABLISHED 1832.
COURIERS, DRAGOMEN,

AND

TRAVELLING SERVANTS.

¦ Families and Gentlemen requiring the services
of either of the above can always rely upon secur
ing a.trmtworthy and efficient Man by applying at
X^EE AWD CARTER'S,
440, WEST STBAND,
where an Extensive Stock of Tourists' Requisites are
alway kept, and Passports and Visas attended to.

76

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1878.

ESTABLISHED 183 3.
THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPDT,
..." AND
passport anb ftamuxn' %%mzi,
LEE & CARTER,
440, WEST STRAND, LONDON

(Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel).

KNAPSACKS STIFF OB LIMP.

PORTMANTEAUX
QF ALL PATTERNS.

BAGS
OF ALL KINDS.

Intending Tourists, are respectfully invited to visit this Establishment
before making purchases for their journey.
AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS'- REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM.—
Hat Cages and Bonnet Boxes.
Luggage Straps and Labels.
Travelling" Lamps. '
Camp Candlesticks-
Flasks and Drinking Cups.
Sandwich .Cases.
Luncheon Baskets!
Dressing Cases ,& Housewives,
Soap and Brush Boxes.
Sponge and Sponge Bags. •>
Baths and Air Cushions.
Waterproofs & Foot Warmers.
Camp Stools and Leg Bests.
Portable Closet Seats.
Etnas for boiling water.
Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors.
Glycerine and Insect Powder.
Door Fasteners, &c, &c, &c. '

Guide Books (in pocket bindings).
Maps and Plans of all Parts.
Foreign Dictionaries.
Dialogues and Grammars.
Polyglott Washing Books.
Journals and Diaries.
Pocket Books and Note Cases.
Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases.
Money Belts and Bags.
Writing Cases and Blotters.
Ink Stands and Light Boxes.
Foreign Stationery. <
Travelling Ghess Boards, &c.
Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews-
Barometers & Thermometers.
Field Glasses & Compasses.
Eye Preservers aAd'Spectacles.
Railway Bugs'. and Straps.

London : Printed by Whliam Clowes and boKS, Stamford Street and Charing Cross.