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IRELAND

FOR THE

HOLIDAYS.

1914.

A.D.

CONTENTS.

Page.
The Holyhead Routes 3
The Irish Railways 8
Dublin and its Sights ii
Dublin's Northern Suburbs 17
Dublin's Southern Suburbs 20
Dublin, West 25
County Wicklow 27
The Boyne Valley 35
Greenore and the North 41
The Mourne Mountains and Carlingford Lough - 42
Belfast 52
The Antrim Coast 60
Londonderry 6S
Donegal and its Highlands 72
L<}wer Donegal and Lough Erne S4
The West, Connaught and its Charms 91
Galway 92
connemara and achil.l island 99
Limerick, Clare and the Shannon ioS
The South Coast, County Wexford 115
Waterford District 117
County Cork 120
Kerry and Killarney 125
Trade, Hotel, Boarding House, £rv. Advertisements 135 to 152
/¦'or Complete Index to Towns, see page 133-134.

Some of the Many Advantages of the
Central Passage.
IRELAND as a tourist ground is at last being recognised. For
Cmanv years the London and North-Western Railway Company, through
its HolYhead route, has been using every effort to press the claims of
the sister isle on holiday makers, and with increasing and encouraging
success every season. The scenery of Ireland, it is agreed, surpasses
the most sanguine expectations. There is a much greater element of
variety in Ireland than in any other European country, and no
district offers such extraordinary and such beautiful contrasts in so
limited a compass. The merits of Ireland as a sporting country are
also receiving wide-spread recognition. Anglers and golfers are
going in such numbers as to merit the term " invasion," but in a
friendly and not a hostile sense.
As the result, Ireland has been responding nobly to the demands
made upon it. The Irish railway companies by a series of accelerated
express corridor and restaurant trains have brought the most distant
parts of the country into close touch with the capital, and, in

... -.  '

General View, Holyhead Harbour.

Ladies' Deck Cabin.

S.S. Anglia.

Ladies' Cabin.

conjunction with the London and North-Western Railway, have
arranged a. series of circular tours which cover the most desirable
places in the island. In addition, the companies have established
hotels of their own, all at a reasonable tariff, at some of the
most interesting and distant spots, having in many cases free
shooting and fishing, whilst in friendly rivalry the private hotel
proprietors have improved their houses so as to bring them up to
the standard prevailing in English touring districts.
With all these encouraging signs there only remains the problem
from this side as to how to get there, and of course only one solution
presents itself. The popular and convenient way is the one that has
been in high favour for so many years, the middle passage from
Holyhead to Dublin and Kingstown, with its four regular passenger
sailings each week-day and two on Sundays. Of the daily sailings
from Holyhead, three are for Kingstown, and one, the London
and North-Western night boat, for the North Wall, Dublin. The
distance between Kingstown and Dublin is merely a quarter of an
hour's railway journey.
The sea service is carried on by the London and North Western

Commemoration Arch, Holyhead.

Railway Company and by the City of Dublin Steam Packet
Company, each company supplying four boats, and through tickets
are available on the joint service. The London and North-Western
express boat takes the afternoon voyage to and from Kingstown,
whilst the morning and evening trips are by the City of Dublin
Company's mail boats.
One of the leading points about the Holyhead route centres in the
tact that the open sea voyage occupies less than three hours, and that
the average sea passage by the passenger steamers between Kingstown
and Holyhead may be reckoned at two-hours and three-quarters.
The boats are of the most modern type, lit throughout by electricity,
and have been so constructed as to reduce rolling to a minimum,
and to secure the absence of vibration from the engines. Special
attention has been paid to the important subject of ventilation,

Holyhead Hotel.
electric fans assisting the natural system. As for the interna!
accommodation, it is quite comprehensive to say that it possesses
all the comforts and conveniences of a first-class hotel, and that
third-class as well as second-class passengers have comfortable
quarters and careful attention.
The four London and North-Western boats on the service, each
of which will accommodate 1,400 passengers, are 340 ft. in length
and 39 feet in breadth, with a speed of 22 knots. They are sister
ships named the "Scotia," " Anglia," " Hibernia," and Cambria,"
and are equipped with Wireless Telegraphy. The North-Western
fleet consists in all of 18 steamships, and the company are part
owners of 14 others. The boats ofthe City of Dublin Steam Packet
Company are 372 feet in length, 41^ feet in breadth, and can
travel at _<. speed of 24 knots. They are named after the Irish

provinces, the "Ulster," the "Leinster," the " Munster," and the
"Connaught." Passengers who intend crossing from Kingstown on
the early morning service (eight o'clock) can sleep on board the
night before. A system of submarine signalling has lately been
installed at Holyhead, and in thick or fogg)' weather the steamer
can pick up signals which indicate very clearly her position.
It is not, however, only in the Channel service that the Holyhead
route takes the leading position. On both sides on week-days special
corridor express trains with connections to all parts ofthe country run
in conjunction with it, train and boat being only a few yards apart at
Holyhead, Kingstown, and Dublin, communication being under
cover, and luggage being transferred free of charge, whilst comfortable
hotels under the management of the London and North-Western

Soath Stack Lighthouse, Holyhead.

Company mark the points of arrival and departure by sea at Holyhead .
and Dublin. Waiting the arrival of the boat at Dublin or Kingstown
are express or mail trains running north, south, and west to
Drogheda, Belfast, Londonderry, Sligo, Limerick, Waterford, Kil
larney, Cork, Queenstown, Athlone, Galway, Wicklow and Wexford.
In connection with the London and North-Western trains,
breakfast, luncheon, and dining cars, and corridor lavatory carriages
ist'and 3rd classes are provided on the day expresses between London
(Euston) and Holyhead, whilst sleeping saloons are available on the
night trains. Another attraction in connection with this route consists
in the fact that it runs along the sea-board of the most picturesque part
of North Wales, and the holder of a through ticket can break the
journey at several points either on the outward or return trip. The
run from Chester, after affording glimpses of the ancient town, gives

opportunity for viewing the estuary of the Dee, Rhyl, the three Col-
wyns, the castle and town of Conway, Puffin Island, Llanfairfechan,
Bangor, the Menai Strait, and a good portion of the Island of Anglesey.
Holyhead, in addition, offers a third route to Ireland, that to the
North of Ireland via Greenore, on the coast of Carlingford Lough.
The open sea passage takes about lour hours, and the boats reach
their destination early in the morning. The steamers on this route,
though not so large as the renowned Dublin ones, are ofthe most
modern type and possess all the conveniences which make the sea
voyage a pleasure. Greenore has a comfortable hotel, under the
management of the London and North-Western Railway Company,
with golf links attached, and it makes a capital centre for exploring
Carlingford Lough, Louth, and the Mourne Mountain districts,

Tri-Arddur Bay, Holyhead.
and visiting Warrenpoint and Newcastle. Belfast is reached via
Newry. Another train gets to Dundalk in time to join the express
which runs to Enniskillen and Sligo, and thus connects with the
Donegal Highlands, Connemara, and other districts.
Holyhead, it will thus be seen, satisfies every requisite of the
traveller and tourist. As the route to Ireland it possesses the maximum
of advantages and the minimum of inconveniences. Perhaps its
comfort, accessibility, and shortness of sea passage will be accounted
among its chief claims to public regard, and in these respects it has a
special interest for ladies and children who may be travelling alone.
Both on the trains and the boats careful provision is made for this class
of passenger, there being reserved carriages and luxurious ladies'
cabins, whilst, in addition, the boats contain a comfortable deck
drawing-room for the use of ladies.

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THE IRISH RAILWAYS.

Principal Holiday Resorts in the Sister Isle.

The railway
follow : —

companies having stations in Dublin, are as

London & North-Western
Dublin & South-Eastern

Station.
North Wall.
Westland Row.
Harcourt Street.
Amiens Street.
Kingsbridge.Broadstone.

Great Northern (Ireland)
Great Southern & Western
Midland Great Western
The names of the railways are generally descriptive of their
route, and it is only necessary to add that the South-Eastern line
includes the picturesque scenery of Wicklow, Wexford, and
Waterford, by the coast ; the Great Northern — Belfast, Londonderry,
Greenore, Warrenpoint, Enniskillen, Lough Erne, and Bundoran ;
the Great Southern — the Blackwater and Suir Valleys, Cork,
Killarney Lakes and Mountains, the Fiords of Kerry, and Limerick
and the Midland Great Western — Galway, Connemara, Achill
Island, and Sligo. In connection with the steamers to and from
Holyhead, there are the Extension Railway lines at North Wall
Station, joining up to Kingsbridge, Broadstone and Amiens Street,
and special boat trains, thus avoiding the crossing of Dublin by car,

8

when proceeding to, or returning from, other parts of the country.
There is also a regular service of trains between Amiens Street
(Gt. Northern) and Westland Row (South-Eastern), and twice a
day passenger trains connect Kingsbridge (Gt. Southern) and
Amiens Street by way of Glasnevin and Drumcondra. Kings-
bridge, Westland Row, and Harcourt St., possess also a connection
by a through tramcar service.
In addition to all the usual features of corridor trains,
restaurant cars, cheap excursions, tourist tickets, and circular tours
on their own and other company's lines, the Irish railway
companies have also a combination system which includes car fares
or hotel tickets, or both. Some of the tourist resorts may be several
miles from a station, and, when this is the case, the railways
interested control a car service. Around Dublin there are a score
of holiday resorts, and tickets are issued to any of these places
which may be made to include a dinner or tea at a first-class hotel on
a. particular day, or may suffice for a week's stay. The London
and North-Western Company issue tickets from England which
includes a stay at their Dublin hotel. In the more remote tourist
districts the railway companies possess hotels of their own to which
this system, or variants of it, also applies. The combined rail and
hotel ticket possesses not only convenience and implies the absence
of worry and petty vexations, but is much more economical than
the usual way.
A word or two respecting the Irish seaside resorts. They have
little in common with the English popular places. Their attractions
and advantages are purely natural ones ; beaut)' or grandeur of
position, impressive cliff scenery, a pleasant country around, great
stretches of sands or rocks, bracing breezes, a sea always in
evidence, and excellent bathing, boating, and usually fishing. A
golf links or a tennis court ordinarily finds a congenial spot near the
sea. Three or four out of the leading twenty possess an indoor place
of amusement or provide outdoor music or entertainment, but in
almost all the centres the hotel arranges its own dances, concerts,

Spinning and Lace Making. Glengarriff.

and pleasures. The wooden pier, too, with its bands, pierrots,
and amusement pavilion, is unknown in Ireland, and for promenade
purposes the sea walls which bound the harbour take its place.
Somehow, the healthy and energetic life in the open which
prevails in the Irish seaside resorts does not need any artificial
stimulants. A list of the principal ones includes the following : —
East :— Kingstown, Dalkey, Bray, Greystones, Wicklow, Courtown,
Ilowth, Malahide, Skerries, Laytown, and Greenore.
North: — Warrenpoint, Rostrevor, Newcastle, Bangor, Whitehead,
Portrush, Buncrana, Rosapenna, Portsalon, Killybegs, and
Bundoran.
WEST : — Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Dugort, Mallaranny, Newport,
Westport, Salthill, Galway, Kilkee, Lahinch, and Bally-
bunion.
South: — Valentia Island, Waterville, Parknasilla, Courtmacsherry,
Queenstown, Voughal, and Tramore.
The other tourist districts have all characteristic features.
The more remote places from the capital, such as Connemara,
Donegal, and Kerry, contain some of the most marvellous coast,
lake, and mountain scenery in these isles, and offer the most
tempting sport to anglers. Among the nearer grounds, Wicklow
and the Boyne Valley possess many interesting collections bearing
on the early days of Christianity and of Anglo-Norman times, and
Wicklow also holds within its confines some magnificent mountain
scenery, gloomy hills and glorious vales.
Ancient monuments and legendary lore to support them,
however, find a place in most Irish counties, and the tourist has
not far to go in any direction without seeing a round tower,
a carved cross, or the ruins of a castle, abbey, or monaster)'.
A voyage along the Shannon from Athlone will show some of
these collections, and the captivating river scenery disclosed is
shared in a more brilliant
described as one of Nature's
show-places. Milk Cart.

Sackcille Street, Dublin.

Parks, Monuments, and Public Buildings.

An hour in the centre of Dublin is enough to establish the fact
that the city possesses all the graces and distinctions incidental to a
capital. Dublin has an undefinable old-world flavour and charm
which is denied to the other capitals of the British Isles. No tall
factory chimneys spoil its views or pollute its skies. Its modernity
is not quite that of our times, although in the matter of public
improvements and comforts it is completely up to date. Yet with
all its magnificent buildings, its splendid shops, its extensive
parks, and its unrivalled railway and electric tramcar facilities,
Dublin gives the impression of belonging to a period much antecedent
to the present one. Perhaps its imposing architectural features
produce this result. The numerous public buildings, fine old houses,
and monuments do not savour of the style of these tinse days. They
have a solidity and a distinction which recall memories of the
architects and builders of the Georgian times. Many indeed belong
to the eighteenth century, and in a way seem to colour and impress
the city, even though some of the houses have been degraded by
the changes of fashion into tenement dwellings.
Dublin, too, has quite another character of its own. It has little
real affinity, except a surface one, with either an English or a
Scottish city, outside the matter of language, and is more akin in
appearance, in people, and in thought with the south of France,
London may be more cosmopolitan, but Dublin is more Continental,

Gough Statue, Phoenix Park, Dublin

especially as regards its
Sundays. The Sunday,
throughout Ireland — except
in parts of north-east Ulster
— is regarded as a day of
recreation, and as Dublin
is surrounded by a cordon
of holiday resorts, trains
are almost as frequent on
summer Sundays as on
week-days. It is significant
that the Dublin "Zoo"
opens on Sunday at a charge of twopence, on five other days of the
week the charge being a shilling.
Dublin's splendid position tells much in its favour. Standing on
the shores of a great bay it is so built that no part can be more than
three miles away from a pleasant country side, and the mountains on
the south frontier come so close that they form a background for
some of the streets. The River Liffey divides the city into two
compact parts, and the numerous bridges constitute some of the
pleasantest "view places." Sackville Street may be regarded as
the real centre. Not only do most of the tram lines, which extend
into the suburbs for several miles, radiate from it, but it is only
a short distance in a straight line from the North Wall, Westland
Row, Amiens Street and Tara Street Railway Stations.
The walk along the quays trom the London and North-Western
Hotel to Sackville Street affords an interesting glimpse of the
maritime activities of the city, and the road passes the Custom
House, usually regarded externally as the finest public building in

On the Liffey, Dublin.

Dublin. It was built in 1794 at a cost of half a million sterling,
and its graceful dome and four decorated fronts give it a
most distinguished appearance. Passing the Custom House along
Eden Quay— on the opposite side of the River are two theatres —
the visitor arrives at the O'Connell Bridge, which unites Sackville
Street and Westmoreland Street, and looking along the river sees
the cupola of the F'our Courts (Exchequer, Common Pleas, King's
Bench and Chancer)) and on the other side of the Liffey the tower
of Christ Church Cathedral and the spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral.
Sackville Street does not measure half a mile in length, but its
width, its line of monuments, its lofty buildings, and its contraction
at both ends give it the appearance of __ square. Among the
monuments the tall and graceful column known as Nelson's Pillar

Trinity College Grounds, Dublin.
impresses by its height, and the memorial to O'Connell — which
contains some fifty figures — by its beauty. The General Post Office,
with a portico supported by six columns, and the Rotunda, a collection
of concert and public rooms, mark the more important architectural
features, which also comprise several first-class, yet moderate priced,
hotels. Round the Rotunda Gardens the road leads to Broadstone
Station. Close by the " Pillar," rises the Roman Catholic Pro-
Cathedral, in Marlborough Street, a domed building in the Doric
style, surmounted by statues. Many of the Roman Catholic churches
in Dublin and throughout Ireland are built in this style — without spire
or steeple. In Abbey Street is the Irish National Theatre.
Over O'Connell Bridge to the right into Westmoreland Street
—the street to the left over the 1 ridge takes you to Westland Row

13

Railway Station-in a few minutes, at the junction of Grafton
Street 'the Bank of Ireland, once the Irish Houses of Parliament.
there comes into view, opposite, Trinity College. The Bank was built
between 1729 and 1790, the front facing College Green being the
earliest, and it occupies a space ot about an acre and a half. The
principal side consists of a colonnade of the Ionic order, extending
around three sides of a quadrangular recess, and the east front has a
portico containing six columns, statues surmounting the ends.
Internally, the House of Lords still remains intact with its tapestries,
but the House of Commons has been deprived of its gallery and
divided. Trinity College opposite, fronted by statues of Burke and
Goldsmith, stands in extensive grounds, there being a park of twenty
acres attached. The library contains a copy of all books published

Custom House, Dublin.
in the Kingdom, and among its manuscript treasures is the " Book of
Kells," a copy of the Gospel dating from the end of the sixth
century. Like the Bank, Trinity College is open to visitors.
College Green, which is a paved space, offers a choice ot
ways. Following the Grafton Street continuation of Westmoreland
Street, perhaps the most fashionable shopping part of the capital,
the end comes in less than half a mile with the beautiful and
spacious park and square known as St. Stephen's Green, which
merits special attention for its lake and fine collection of birds, and
for the number of public buildings around. In the adjoining Merrion
Square stand the National Gallery and the National History Museum.
Returning to College Green, and passing the statues of Grattan
and William the Third into Dame Street, Dublin Castle, the official

14

Royal Dublin Society's Library, Dublin.
residence ofthe Viceroy, calls for inspection, and then Christ Church,
or the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, is not far off. Founded in
1 03S and rebuilt in 1170, it has undergone many modifications and
for a long period was allowed to remain in a dilapidated condition.
In 1870 it was practically rebuilt at a cost of ^180,000. South of
Christ Church, and in one of the poorer parts of the city, St.
Patrick's Cathedral is seen at its best from the pleasant square
known as St. Patrick's Park. This Cathedral was originally built
between 1230 and 1255, and was restored in 1864 at a cost of

St. Stephen's Green Park, Dublin.
15

^100,000. It has more interest and dignity than its neighbour, and
among the monuments are tablets to Dean Swift and Hester Johnson
(" Stella.") To merely enumerate the notable buildings and interesting places
in Dublin would require several pages, but some mention, however
brief, must be made of the Phoenix Park, which embraces an area of
1,760 acres and has a circumference of seven miles. A twopenny
tram ride from the " Pillar" takes the visitor to the nearest entrance,
which is also the entrance to the People's Gardens — a pretty public
park — and the Zoological Gardens, notable for its lion breeding,
open-air aviaries, aquarium, and collection of aquatic birds. A
considerable portion of Phcenix Park is laid out in playing grounds,
whilst other parts are reserved for the official residences of the Lord
Lieutenant and the Chief Secretary, for the Hibernian Military
School, and for other purposes.
The leisurely visitor to Dublin can see everything ot note in the
city by the help of a map and a tramcar, but if time be an object a
car must be taken. Though there are official regulations as to fares,
which are lower than in England, it is well to have a complete
understanding before engagement, as the legal fares do not apply
beyond a reasonable and defined radius.

Old Irish Houses of Parliament (now Bank of Ireland),

Dublin.

16

DUBLIN'S NORTHERN SUBURBS.

Clontarf, Sutton, Howth, Malahide, Swords,
to Laytown.

Howth Harbour
After leaving Amiens Street Station, the Great Northern line
crosses a creek of Dublin Bay, and in a few minutes touches the
pleasant suburb of
CLONTARF. One of the astonishing things about Dublin is
the celerity with which the railway — North, South, and West — takes
you out of busy streets into woods and meadow-lands and gardens.
Clontarf is only three miles from Sackville Street, but its surround
ings seem entirely rural when they do not smack of the sea-side.
This suburb was the scene in 1014 of one of the greatest battles in
Irish history, the one in which King Brian Boru finally crushed the
Danes. SUTTON, a modern little seaside suburb of villa residences,
comes next on the line which branches off at Flowth Junction. Like
Clontarf it owns a golf links, and is the station for another in the
hinterland at Portmarnock. It is also the station for a racecourse at
Baldoyle. Sutton occupies an end corner of an extensive plain, but
the pedestrian will be rewarded who leaves the train here and after
striking across the country for a couple of miles touches the coast
and tramps along the sinuous road by the sea, which leads to

17

Malahide. But by stopping in a train another our or five minutes,
HOWTH, the terminus of the line, will be reached. Howth,
itself is one of the smallest of towns, clinging to the land side of a
cliff 'but it is the largest centre ofthe population on the famous Hill of
Howth The Hill itself is really a peninsula of considerable size and
area, with an excellent service of roads both along the cliff sides and
also in the interior. With the exception of country houses and villas
dotted here and there, and a stray farm, the district remains a primi
tive playground, where gorse and heather and wild flowers bloom,
and where the visitor may wander where he will. There are magni
ficent cliff walks and glorious panoramas from the summit, all Dublin
Bay and the Wicklow Hills being visible from the east side.
Northwards, the uninhabited rocky islet known as Ireland's Eye

The Two Seas of Howth.
extends below, less than a mile from the harbour, beyond it is the
island of Lambay, and on a clear day the grey Mourne Mountains,
sixty miles away, come into view.
Howth Harbour, overhung by the ruins oi a thirteenth century
abbey, was constructed in pre-Victorian days at a cost of £300,000 to
be the connecting link between England and Ireland that Kingstown
is to-day, but after a short trial it was found unsuitable. Then it
became the great resort ofthe herring fleet, but suddenly the herrings
left the district, and Howth would have been in a bad way had not
Dublin people turned their attention to the lovely peninsula, backed
by precipitous crags, as a residential suburb. The Great Northern
Company have materially helped this project by constructing an
electric tramway from Sutton Station to Howth Staton by way of

Howth Summit, and by this journey of over five miles — which taps
only an inner portion of the district — Howth can be easily explored.
The Great Northern Company have also added a refreshment pavilion
and promenade to the amenities of the highest point of the Head.
These are conveniently situated to visit the Bailey Lighthouse.
MALAHIDE, a little past Howth Junction on the direct line
northwards, and among rich pasture lands, is notable for its old
castle and Gothic abbey, close neighbours. Malahide Castle grounds
are open to the public on Wednesdays and Fridays. Malahide offers
besides boating, bathing, and golfing, a yachting trip and a picnic to
Lambay Island, seven miles away. It also offers a visit to
SWORDS, two miles inland, which has no claims to be
considered a fashionable suburb, but appears quite content to hold to
its history, more especially to the fact that St. Columba founded a
monastery here in the sixth century. The "lions" of this village
are a holy well ; a square belfry tower, which may belong to the
fifteenth century ; a bell-house or round tower, some eighty feet in
height, and as much of a mystery as the fellows of its class ; and the
remains oi an archbishop's palace, parts of which give indications
of thirteenth century
work. Swords will
delight the antiquary.
Returning to Mala
hide, the main line
north keeps in touch
with the coast and sea,
and passes Skerries,
which has holiday
ambitions and has got
as far as a nine-hole
golfcourse,Balbriggan, Laytown, and Bettys-
town before it reaches
Drogheda. Laytown,
by the way, owns one
of the finest stretches
of golden sand, ex
tending for some miles,
in Ireland, whilst its
neighbour Bettystown
rejoices in a golf
course. People who
like quietness, bracing
air, and bathing, will
find either of these tiny
, . . Swords Round Tower and Norman Tower,
places to their taste. D(/j)/.;

19

Kingstown Harbour.

Dundrum, Carrickmines,
Kingstown, Dalkey, and Killiney.

The environs of Dublin which extend southwards fall into two
distinct sections, which may be conveniently surveyed by the two
lines of the Dublin and South-Eastern Railway radiating from
different stations, but converging at Bray, twelve miles away, on the
Wicklow borders. The country track starts from Harcourt Street
Station, and runs through a verdant land in which the high hills and
glens give the dominant tone, and the emerald green the dominant
colour to the landscape. Some ofthe Dublin hills elsewhere would
be called mountains. From Westland Row Station — which is linked
up with the (.reat Northern Station at Amiens Street — the line keeps
close by the bay all the way after n couple of miles, and, no fewer
than ten holiday resorts, large and small, mark its course of pleasure.
Practically, this district, seawards, constitutes one immense bathing
place, and to the delights of a " dip" in the sea are added boating,
fishing and yachting.
DUNDRUM. F'rom Harcourt Street Station, after passing the
suburban districts of Rathmines and Milltown — the scenery on the
Dodder river here contains some pleasant pictures — a few hours at
Dundrum will not be wasted if the fifteen hundred feet of the Three
Rock Mountain be climbed for the view over the county and bay.
Few capitals can furnish such a view three miles from their centre.
Stillorgan and Foxrock are the next stations, the last named suburb
being the nearest place to the Leopardstown racecourse, and both
showing their devotion to sport by golf links. On the way to Bray,
the next stop is

The Pavilion, Kingstown.
CARRICKMINES, FOR THE SCALP. Carrickmines is
seven miles from Dublin, and owns a bracing reputation gained from
its undulating character. It makes a good centre for cyclists and
pedestrians to visit the border Wicklow scenery, and the high walk
through the Scalp to Bray opens up a beautiful vista. As in this case,
the ferocious — and often sanguinary and lower-world — names given
to scenery merely express the striking character ofthe scene. It is
an Irish way. The Scalp is a rough passage torn through the
mountains, evidently fashioned by some great shock or eruption, and
it offers a spectacle in contrasts. Enormous masses of rock litter one
steep side ofthe gorge from the top ofthe hill to near the road side ;
the heights opposite, as a protest against the bare and sterile character
of their neighbours, have taken unto themselves a mantle of green,
and many luxuriant woods and groves, also an easier formation.

Sorrento Terrace, Dalkey (Corner of Killiney Bay). [Photo.: w. Lawrence

Carrickmines also affects golf, and after leaving the station, Shankhill,
with a superb outlook over Killiney Bay, marks the last place on the
line before Bray.
By the coast route the line sights the sea at Booterstown, a place
in high favour with the Dublin gamins on Sunday afternoon, as a visit
to Westland Row Station attests, and then passes, along by the sea
wall, through the outskirts of Blackrock and its park, Seapoint, and
Salthill, to
KINGSTOWN, six miles from the capital. Kingstown's pride
is its magnificent harbour, almost enclosed by two main piers which,
with the frontage, make one ofthe finest promenades in the island.
Kingstown is a royal harbour and has a distinction of its own in that
its only trade is practically one in passengers and mails, and that it

Killiney Hills from Sorrento Paik.
possesses none of the griminess, the filth, the thick black smoke,
and the litter which form an integral part of mere industrial and
trading resorts. It is really a pleasure harbour. One may lament
the fact that the ,£800,000 spent on it has not brought the expected
cargoes of trade, but there are compensations in that it constitutes
one end of the great central highway between England and Ireland,
Holyhead being the other.
Kingstown derives its main importance from being the station
from which the London and North-Western and the City of
Dublin's Steam Packet Company's boats begin or complete the
voyage to and from England, a special central pier being devoted to
their use. The arrival or departure of the steamers constitutes a local
event of much importance, there being six of these occasions every
week-da)' and four on Sundays, and as trains run in connection with

Dalkey Harbour.

all the sailings the scene is one of much liveliness and interest. The
afternoon boat each way is the London and North-Western one.
Kingstown Harbour enjoys another distinction in being the principal
yaching centre in Ireland, and during the season its attractions are
enhanced by band performances on the piers, and by a plentiful
supply of amusements. In the spring of this year it added to its
attractions a golf-links, situated about half-a-mile from the hotels.
As a fashionable holiday resort, the town has the further advantage
of being situated in a pleasant country, the scenery and surroundings
on the land sides providing many anticipations of picturesque
Wicklow, and it straggles along tor a couple ot miles, either by the
bay or towards the uplands. Naturally, it lays itself out to attract
the visitor, being the most important holiday outlet from Dublin, and
its parks and gardens, its hotels, and its baths, fulfil every require
ment. The strand or shore is dotted with huge boulders and rocks,
and the sea-walk by Sandycove and Glenageary, continuations of the
town, to Dalkey, reveals the rock-bound character of the coast
against which the breakers surge, and also the ingenuity by which
some of the nearer groups of crags have been utilised so as to
constitute natural bathing-pools.
DALKEY has a more retired suburban character than its
neighbour, and its harbour and the remains of three castles keep in
memory the past glories of the place. The wooded hills which
overshadow part of the town and extend on to Killiney give it a
picturesque appearance, and the panoramic views from their summit
well repay the easy climb. Perhaps the craggy and hilly peninsula,
which forms one corner of Killiney Bay, and the pretty Sorrento

23

Grounds, which overlook the sea, constitute Dalkey's best assets
from a visitor's point of view, but a voyage in the ferry boat to
Dalkey Island is a necessary ingredient even of a short stay. The
island or islet — for it is only about a quarter of a mile in length —
abounds in wild flowers, and commands the coast from Dublin to
Bray Head.
KILLINEY. As the train leaves Dalkey on a sunny day and
passes through a short tunnel, the visitor who happens to sit at the
side of the carriage nearest the sea, and with his face to the engine,
is greeted with the " surprise view " of Killiney Bay. The full glory
of one ofthe loveliest pictures imaginable discloses itself in an instant.
A magnificent stretch of silver strand on the borders of a dazzling blue
sea and ending in a noble headland, flanked by a range of dark hills,
with the bluest of skies overhead, are some of the salient points
of the view, and as the train winds along the low plateau fresh
beauties by land and sea reveal themselves. For Killiney country-
wards is a series of green hills, dotted with charming residences, the
Obelisk Hill having been converted into recreation grounds known
as Victoria Park, and behind these hills rise the mountains. Many
pretty glens, such as the Bride's Glen, diversify the scene ; a cromlech
brings out the inevitable enquiry as to how the huge top stone ever
got there ; and the coast on to Bray is just as beautiful and as
diversified as the hinterland.

Killiney.

I [Photo. : W. Lawrence.

24

DUBLIN WEST.

Lucan, Maynooth, Blessington, and Kildare.

The country suburbs on the west of Dublin are quite as pretty as
the seaside ones on the north and south, and owing to the wooded
and pastoral character ofthe country, many of them resemble huge
parks. The undulating and hilly formation of the land enhances the
charms of the scenes on the way. Dublin possesses no industrial
suburbs to spoil the landscape with tall chimneys and obscure the blue
sky with smoke. On the main Midland Great Western road from
Broadstone Station, alter passing Blanchardstown and Clonsilla
Junction, the first place of note is
LUCAN, a spa of considerable reputation, standing on a low
hill. Irish health resorts of this kind are exceedingly few in number ;
Lisdoonvarna, in Clare, being the only other one known to the
average tourist. The medical authorities assert that Lucan possesses
one of the best sulphuretted springs in the kingdom, and add that the
alkaline sulphur water is quite as efficacious as the Harrogate variety
and less nauseous to take. However that may be, Lucan enjoys a
pleasant situation, with two golf links as added attractions, and in the
valley of the Liffey the villages of Leixlip and Celbridge, and the
walk through the Lucan demesne, offer a tempting excursion, if only
to enjoy the salmon fishing, and to note what a transformation
twelve miles makes in an inky river. Lucan can also be reached by
the electric tramway from Phcenix Park, and by rail from the Great
Southern and Western Station at Kingsbridge.
MAYNOOTH AND TAGHADOC. On the Midland Great
Western line, Maynooth comes next, the railway being still accom
panied by the Royal Canal which joined it near Broadstone and
clings to it part of the way across Ireland. Maynooth is best known
for its Roman Catholic College, which educates students for the
priesthood, and for the spacious park at Carton, which contains the
residence of the Duke of Leinster. The park is open to the public,
and among its thousand acres are many lovely vistas. Less than two
miles from the village Taghadoc Round Tower stands out. It is
considered a perfect specimen. As these conically-capped towers are
found in most Irish counties it may be as well to say here that
antiquaries generally agree that their purpose was to serve as belfries
and also as places of refuge. They date from the eighth to the
thirteenth centuries ; they seem always to have been built near
churches and abbeys ; in shape and construction they are all alike.
The entrance is by a doorway, some feet from the ground, and inside
they are divided. 25

BLESSINGTON AND POULAPHOUCA. If only to see
the Liffey as a mountain torrent dashing down steep rocks, and to
catch a glimpse of some of the most romantic scenery in Wicklow,
the visitor will not regret a day spent around Blessington. The most
convenient way is to take the electric tram from Nelson's Pillar to
Terenure, and then proceed by the steam tramway, whose route is by
Tallaght and Johnstown. At one point of a steep road the view
extends over four counties. The Falls of the Liffey at Poulaphouca,
four miles from Blessington, is one of the most charming pictures of
Nature in her loveliest forms.
KILDARE. The Great Southern line from Kingsbridge, after
passing Lucan and Sailins, has an important station at Newbridge,
25 miles from Dublin ; Newbridge not only being the station for the
Curragh military camp, but also for a well-known race-course and
golf links. The next notable station is for the to wn of Kildare,
which has a restored cathedral, a round tower, and a Carmelite abbey
among its objects of interest.

Vale of Ouoca.

26

(€2l

COUNTY WICKLOW
TT T -

Bray, Greystones,
Glendalough, Ovoca, and Glenmalure.

Along the eastern coast from Antrim to Wexford, the county of
Wicklow stands pre-eminent for the beauty, the grandeur, and the
diversity of its scenery. The many mountain torrents add to its
attractiveness. Of all the counties whose shores are washed by the
Irish Sea, none can contest its claims as the premier holiday district.
In a way it resembles Derbyshire, a more verdant Derbyshire by the
sea, and at times the luxuriance of its soil recalls memories of Devon
and Cornwall, but still it has a distinctive character and elusive
charm of its own. Wicklow's infinite variety of hill and dale and its
plenitude of scenic riches impress the visitor most of all. To these
must be added its historical associations and its wonderful memorials
of earl)- Christian days in this island ; both in close connection with
modern pleasure towns, angling resorts, and golf links. By the aid
of the Dublin and South-Eastern Railway, in conjunction with an
organised system of car routes, practically all the leading places of
interest can be reached by a series of day trips from Dublin, but to
come to close intimacy with the county you must spend a month in it.
The time is well bestowed.
BRAY may be regarded as the portal ol the count)', and as the
best local centre for exploring purposes. Its sands, electrically-lit
esplanade, sea wall, green, pierrots, bands, big hotels, and generally
the appearance of its front — cut off from the town by railway line —
offer the nearest resemblance to an aristocratic English sea-side place
that the Irish coast can offer. There the resemblance ends. No
place of the same size across the water can tender such bathing and
boating facilities, and as is usual in Ireland special attention has been
paid to the bathing place for ladies. Few sea-side towns indeed can

27

^g^xffm/ffm^mMymmr^mmmsmfjm^^

The Promenade, Bray.
boast of such a marvellous rounding-off to its piomenade as the
stupendous mass of Bray Head gives, or of such an environment as
the plain of Bray possesses, surrounded as it is on all the sides by
pleasant hills, which serve as outposts for mountains over 2,000 ft.
high. Bray Head rises in terraces of woods some 800 ft. high, one
of its lower stretches holds a park, and a cliff walk for some miles
along it towards Greystones affords a wonderful study of crags,
precipices and sea caves, and amply rewards both the botanist and
the ireoloeist.

Old Tower and Holywell, Bray.
2S

POWERSCOURT AND THE DARGLE. Any detailed
mention of the places of interest in the immediate vicinity of Bray
would require a special handbook. It is only allowable to say that
the district is unusually rich in fine mansions and lovely grounds, and
that — as is customary in Ireland — most of the demesnes are open to
the public on certain days of the week. Among them are Kilruddery
and Hollybrook, the Elizabethan residence of Lord Meath and Sir
R. Hodson, respectively ; Old Connaught, the demesne of Lord
Plunket ; Charleville, the residence of Lord Monk ; and Powerscourt,
the seat of Lord Powerscourt. The Powerscourt grounds cover 1,400
acres, mostly of garden and woodland, hill and dale alternating to
form vistas of chequered shade which are the delight of the artist.
The road from the house to the famous cascade shows at one stage a

Kilruddery.
rugged and steep pass some four miles in length closed by a
promontory 2,473 ft- high, and the waterfall itself is in a semi
circular glen hemmed in by mountains, the river Dargle falling 300 ft.
over irregular cliffs into a natural reservoir.
The Glen of the Dargle offers a scene of sylvan beauty, akin to a
glimpse of fairyland were it not for the roar of the impetuous torrent
swirling through the ravine, and the marvellous diversity of scenery
receives further exemplification in the restfulness of the adjoining
Tinnahinch Valley and the pastoral beauties of the model village of
Enniskerry. The Sugarloaf Mountains, Great and Little, dominate
Enniskerry, but they dominate Bray as well, and miles away on the
sea they fix the position of the town.
GREYSTONES, nearly five miles beyond Bray, depends upon
its exclusiveness and quietness, its miles of strand, golf links, pleasant
walks, and natural amusements to fleet the time carelessly, and like
most of the east coast resorts it possesses a good harbour. A favourite
excursion is to the Glen of the Downs, a pleasant valley three miles

29

Dargle Bridge.
away. From Greystones the railway line leaves towns behind for a
time, and runs by the side of the pebbly beach and by the edge of a
pastoral and undulating country for about 12 miles until it reaches
WICKLOW TOWN, 2S miles from Dublin, which rejoices in
a pleasant promenade known as the Murrough, a stretch of coast
aptly titled " The silver strand," a golf links, and a picturesque
harbour. Wicklow makes no claim to fashion, but anglers speak
well of its sea and river fishing. The railway line, bidding farewell
to towns and centres of population, after leaving here turns inland,
and Rathnew — the next station — may be used as a route for
Glendalough, 16 miles away, the road passing near
THE DEVIL'S GLEN, a dark mountain pass some two miles
in length, whose sides clothed with trees mount 400 ft. to the summit.
A stream dashes along over huge rocks, and a cascade sets oft" the
head of the valley. The adjoining Pass and Glen of Runran also offer
abundant excuse for a visit, and others besides anglers find time for a
little more exploration of this district and inspect the Vartry Water
works which supply Dublin and its townships. Returning to the
railway, there is an uninterrupted run of seven miles until, by the
side of the Avonmore river,
RATHDRUM, for GLENDALOUGH, nine miles distant,
comes on the scene. The route is through the Vale of Clara to the
village of Laragh, where four glens converge. The tourist can spend
a week in Glendalough, the valley of the two lakes, and not exhaust
its scenic, historical and archaeological attractions, whilst the legends
connected with it fill a book. The " City of Glendalough," noted
for its " Seven Churches," is said to have been founded by St. Kevin

3°

in the sixth century, and
for many years, to the
Middle Ages, it was a
renowned seat of learning.
To-day a number of ruins of
profound interest, scattered
through a rugged and
desolate valley some two
miles in length and over
hung by mountains, mark
the epochs of its history.
Broken crosses and tombs
abound. On the road from Rath
drum the Priory of St.
Saviour, on the other side
of the Glendassan river,
comes first in view, the
architectural and sculptured
beauty of its restored chan
cel-arch being its principal
feature. A little further on
is the Ivy Church, thought
to date in part from the
time of Kevin, whilst the
tombs and crosses of the
Cathedral mark a century
later. Kevin's Cross (of
granite) the next monument,
stands II ft. high, and its
neighbour Kevin's Kitchen
or Cell ranks as one ot
the most interesting objects
of the gTOup, and remains
almost a perfect dwelling
with the roof intact — a
choice example of the
double -vaulted oratory.
The round tower, the
most prominent feature in
the ruins, rises no ft. with
a circumference of 52 ft.,
and its conical cap has
been rebuilt. After an
examination of these unique
memorials of the past,

31

Vale of Glendrossan, Glendalough

with a glance at the grand
west door of St. Mary's
Church, the route onward
passes by the lower lake on
to the borders of the upper
lake where Rhefert Church,
the ancient burial place of
the O'Tooles, the ancient
princes of this district,
arrests attention. Then it
requires a boat to view
St. Kevin's Bed, a small
cave in the face of the rock where the hermit retreated to escape
the wiles of women; and Temple-na-Skellig, "the Church of the
Rock," a low oblong building, some 26 ft. in length.
GLENMALURE. Also seven miles from Kathdrum, and a
short drive from Glendalough, Glenmalure offers a decided contrast
to its neighbour. Its fame
rests entirely on the wild
picturesque setting of a
valley 12 miles in length,
stretching from " the first
meeting of the waters " at
Ovoca to the base of the
Table Mountain, and with
high mountain borders on
either side. In this remote
and secluded glen Nature
is seen in her sterner
and'more majestic moods.
Solitude seems to brood over the vale, and the Avonberg river which
traverses it harmonises with the prevailing character of the place. A
splendid military road, built after the 1798 insurrection, and starting
from Laragh connects the mountain ranges, and affords vantage
points to view the matchless panorama of what is rightfully regarded
as the most impressive of
the Wicklow glens.
Glenmalure is an ex
cellent centre lor the
mountain climber, also the
angler, as the adjacent river
and streams belong to the
comfortable and picturesque
hotel. It is also an excellent
centre to start the climb
of Lugnaquilla Mountain
Seoen Churches. Glendalough. (3>°39 ft-)

Upper Lake, Glendalough,

y-

THE VALE OF OVOCA. From Rathdrum, the road south
passes near to Avondale, the old home of the Parnell family, but the
railway line onward passes through the Vales of Avondale and
Ovoca, and a walk of a mile from Ovoca Station brings the visitor
to the Cronbane Valley, where the Avonmore and the Avonbeg meet
—the supposed "meeting of tlie waters" immortalised by Moore.
It is a pretty and peaceful spot, redolent of quiet sylvan beauty,
enhanced by the luxuriant vegetation of the low hills, and crowned
by Castle Howard, a fine residence. Returning to the line, at
WOODENBRIDGE, two miles away, four valleys converge,
and in the centre of one of them the Aughrim and Avoca rivers
mingle to form another " meeting of the waters" — a more beautiful
one than the Ovoca meeting— and also to confuse the admirers

Lion Bridge, Oooca.
of the poet. In the way of population Wooden Bridge has little
more than what a hotel and rectory offer, but there are 60 miles of
rivers available for anglers in the district, a golf links, and walks
innumerable. Glenart, the demesne of Lord Carysfort, and Shelton
Abbey, the residence of the Earl of Wicklow, add interest to the
Wooden Bridge district.

LUGNAQUILLA. A branch railway line from Wooden Bridge
station runs inland to Shillelagh, passing through a pastoral country,
the first stop being at Aughrim, whose most interesting beauty spot is
the circular Glen of Emael or Imale. Except at a precipitous spot,
the ascent of Lugnaquilla — which can also be made from here — is said

33

to be a fairly easy one, and a giand view extending over nine counties
— on a clear day — rewards the toil.
The main line from Wooden Bridge turns again to the coast, and
follows the Vale of Arklow by the river to the port of that name,
noted for its fishing industry and its fishermen's quarter. Then, once
more, it turns inland and passes into Wexford, a county which
belongs more to the south than to the east of Ireland.

P*r*2_B-_V;-- ,_ I _. W*..'^"si... r£- -

I.-
Salmon Fishing on Ouoca Riuer.

34

The BOYNE I
VAIX1

I'S^S? '-- i '¦ ' "i.
-'
^W!,^^'^^ ' '^ ^ " " ' ^

Drogheda, Mellifont, Monasterboice, Slane,
Tara, and Bective.

Much misconception prevails, outside Ireland, as to the Valley of
the Boyne, which covers much of Louth and Meath. It is thought
that its chief claim to notice is that a famous battle was once fought
there. This view is not correct. The battle is a detail. The Valley
is not only noted for its scenic beauties, but it contains some of the
most wonderful memorials of the past existing. The oldest Celtic
monuments in these isles are here.
Two ways offer themselves to reach Drogheda, 32 miles by rail
from Dublin, and to explore the Valley of the Boyne of which
Drogheda constitutes one of the best centres. The first is by the
Great Northern express from Dublin (Amiens Street) ; the second
by train from Greenore, in connection with the London and North-
Western Railway's daily sailings from Holyhead. Some of the
interesting points in the Boyne Valley are also tapped by the
Midland Great Western Company's branch lines from Dublin
(Broadstone) which run through Trim and Navan.
The Boyne Valley contains some pretty river scenery, and there
are places where it resembles a miniature edition of the Rhine. But
its historical associations will be found to offer a greater attraction to
the visitor. In a comparatively small and easily-accessible area are to
be seen not only marvellous illustrations and memorials ofthe story
of Ireland prior to the advent of Christianity up to modern times, but

35

remains, such
as cairns and
tumuli, which
take us back
thousands and
thousands of
years earlier.
On the Hill
of Tara 142
kings are
said to have
ruled during
a period of
530 years,
terminating
A.D. 563.
St. Patrick
(rod this
ground ; the
first English
Lord o 1
Meath was buried here ; William ot Orange fought one of the
most decisive battles of history in this district ; ihe great Duke of
Wellington spent his boyhood days at Dargan and Trim.
DROGHEDA, itself, possesses a picturesque situation, rising up
on low hills above the winding and wooded Boyne, and although
some five miles from the sea the river is broad and deep enough to be
fashioned into a good harbour. Its modern character as a busy port
and place of trade does not call for details, and the tourist will be

St. Lawrence's Gate, Drogheda.

content with visiting St. Lawrence's Gate and St. John's Gate, two
towers left of its ancient walls, and the Magdalene Tower, which
dates from the fourteenth century, and is part of a Dominican abbey.
These noble and majestic monuments of the past are surrounded by
small houses and narrow streets — stranded, as it were, in a strange
world. Drogheda has helped to make history, and one of the most
terrible things in its annals is the slaughter of its garrison by
Cromwell in 1640 when he stormed the town. In these frivolous days
one of the most noticeable things in its later records is the laying out
of the naturally favored links of the Louth Golf Club at Baltrae,
three miles away.
THE BATTLE SITE. Two circular coach tours arranged by
the Great Northern Company cover much of the tourist ground in the

On the Boyne at Beauparc.
Boyne Valley. By the first a drive of three miles from Drogheda
along lanes and avenues leads to Oldbridge, the scene ofthe battle in
1690 between the forces of William and James. The battle site is a
richly-wooded and undulating district, with a few small elevations
and dales, and houses at rare intervals. A huge granite obelisk
marks the spot where William's troops crossed the river.
DOWTH MOUND. Proceeding by the river side, skirting the
grounds of Townley Hall, the straggling hamlet of Dowth and its
sequestered caves come into view. The exterior of the caves
resembles a series of land " humps," and a small hill at the rear
commands the country for miles around. There are two or three
entrances at various levels to the subterranean depths, parts of which
are easily'explored, and one spacious chamber is distinguished by the
beauty of its scroll-carved stones. Something in the arrangement of

37

Newgrange Cairn, near Drogheda.
the huge stones which form the foundations of the cave, and also the
fact that human remains, bronzes, and other things have been
discovered, leads authorities to think that Dowth used to be a pre
historic burying-place.
NEWGRANGE TUMULUS. A little further along the coach
stops at Newgrange, said to be the largest ofthe sepulchres of the old
Irish chieftains. Part of the encircling line of rocks still remain.
The principal cave is entered — partly on hands and knees — by a
passage sixty feet long, and in general construction it resembles
Dowth, except that it is on a bigger scale. The dome-roofed central
chamber contains some striking carved work of a spiral and circular
character. Systematic exploration of the numerous caves about here
ought to yield good results.
MELLIFONT ABBEY. After dark compressed passages and
candle-light, the drive for a couple of miles through the beautiful
avenues and pastoral grounds of Townley Hall to Mellifont Abbey
comes as a welcome change. Mellifont was founded in 1142 by the
Cistercians, and is picturesquely situated in a glen on the banks ofthe
Matlock, which here divides Louth and Meath. Much of it still
remains, including the gatehouse, a massive rectangular tower ; the
octagonal baptistry, the chapter house, and parts of the church and
cloisters. This preservation is due to the fact that until recent
years most of the ruins were covered with earth and debris which
have been skilfully removed. The ruins cover a considerable area,
and the variety 01 architectural styles between the twelfth and
sixteenth centuries are exemplified on its hoary walls and beautiful
arches.

3»

MONASTERBOICE. Another few miles bring the visitor to
a still more ancient religious house, one which dates from the sixth
century. Monasterboice within its ample folds contains two
churches, three crosses, and a round tower. The tower is no feet
high, with a circumference of 51 feet at its base, and although the
door is six feet from the ground, wooden steps enable visitors to get
inside and climb to the top. This tower is thought to date from the
ninth century. But interesting as it is, the stone crosses take first
place. One stands 27 feet in height ; another 17 feet ; and the
marvellous and indescribable beautv of their carving, sculpture, and
sacred pictures entitle them to rank among the finest crosses in the
island. They are believed to be antecedent in age to the tower.
SLANE. The second of the Great Northern coaching tours from
Drogheda includes the hill and ruins of Slane, but the district can
also be visited by means of the Meath branch of the Midland Great
Western line, starting from Navan Station. Slane is also included
in a river trip from Drogheda (Oldbridge) to Navan, which takes in
Beauparc and some of the most romantic stretches on the Boyne.
Slane rejoices in a village, a hill, a castle, a hermitage, and an abbey,
the two last named dating back to remote times. Indeed, the Hill ot
Slane is the spot where St. Patrick lit the Paschal fire on Easter Eve,
A.D. 433, a proceeding which greatly alarmed the Irish King and his
Druids on tlie Hill of Tara, ten miles away, who had put out their
own fires in preparation for the great Spring Festival. The hill is
now crowned by a noble tower — the most distinguished remnant of
the abbev.

TARA AND TRIM
Dublin, and
on the Mid
land Great
W e s t e r n ' s
Meath line,
is the nearest
railway sta
tion to the
Hill of Tara,
from which
it is distant
about four
miles. No
thing that
illustrates Tara's ex
traordinary
history re
mains to be

Kilmessan Junction, 24 miles from

Dunmoe Castle.

39

seen, but two long parallel banks on the slopes are said to
represent the great banquetting halls of the Irish Kings. It is
rich, however, in the curious mounds of earth called raths or
duns, which are such a feature of this district. Tara, Trim and
Bective can be included in a day's outing from Dublin (Broadstone
Station) and if two days be devoted to the trip Navan, Slane,
Donaghpatrick, Donaghmore Round Tower (100 ft. high), Newtown
Abbey and Templar's Castle, and the Anglo-Norman Scurlockstown
Castle may be easily added to the list. One of the old gateways of
the once walled town of Trim remains to attest its importance in the
early days of English rule — its ecclesiastical history goes back along
the centuries to the fifth — but the distinction of the restful county
capital of to-day lies rather in the winsome fragment of an Anglo-
Norman tower known as the Yellow Steeple, and in its imposing
Castle Tower. A monument commemorates Wellington's boyhood
days at Trim.
BECTIVE ABBEY. No mention ofthe Boyne Valley would
be complete without a few words on the noble ruin of Bective Abbey,
some two miles from the Midland Great Western Station of that
name. Unlike most monasteries it was intended as a place of great
strength, and has been named a monastic castle owing to its thick
walls and its massive quadrangular tower. Some of the ornamenta
tion on the cloister pillars attests the resource and skill of an artist.
KELLS AND OLDCASTLE. A Great Northern branch line
from Drogheda through Navan to Oldcastle, which halts on the
borders of county Cavan, opens up another corner of Meath. Kells,
the first station out, boasts of crosses which rival those of Monaster-
boice in artistic design ; its round tower stands as high as most of
its rivals; and the quaint St. Columba's House is thought to have
been a residence as well as a chapel. Rathmore Abbey and Fore
Abbey, other ancient ruins, find also a place in this district, and
the antiquarian archceologist will discover abundance of interest
in the score or so of cairns about the "Witch's Hill" at Oldcastle.
The ordinary mortal, however, may prefer a boat on the pleasant
lake in Co. Cavan, known as Lough Ramore, whose bream and perch
aftord good sport for the angler, and whose charming woods add
interest to the Virginia district.

40

mmBtBal^l''**a^*'*___*',*mmm,**'?*^a^

_. __ N. W . S.S. " Rathmore," Holyhead & Greenore Seruice.
Short Sea Passage from Holyhead
to Greenore.
The most direct, the most convenient, and the shortest way to
reach the North of Ireland from England is by the Holyhead and the
Greenore week-day service of the London and North-Western
Railway Company. The distance between the two ports is 79 miles,
entailing an open sea voyage at night of four hours. Between
Fleetwood and Belfast, another favourite route, the distance is 134
miles by the joint service carried on by the London and North-Western
and the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railways. The Greenore route
possesses many tourist advantages. It has a comfortable railway hotel
and a convenient railway line at each port. The sea service is per
formed by boats which have aptly been described for their speed and
luxury as miniature Atlantic liners.
Greenore itself, in County
Louth, is not only a good
starting point for Belfast — a
train waits the arrival of the
boat — the Donegal Highlands
and Dublin, but it is the
cosy headquarters of a most
charming and easily accessible
country which embraces Carling
ford Lough and the Mourne
Mountains, and the pleasure
towns of Warrenpoint, Rostrevor
and Newcastle, in County Down. Spinning and Carding.

ar>d

Greenore, Carlingford, Warrenpoint, Rostrevor,
Newcastle, and Downpatrick.

GREENORE. To all intents and purposes, Greenore consists
of the commodious London and North-Western Railway Hotel, the
railway station, several bungalows let off as furnished houses, croquet
and lawn tennis courts, and an excellent eighteen-hole golf course of
a sandy and sporting character. Its position on the shore a few
miles from the sea entrance to the spacious and lake-like Carlingford
Lough gives it a bracing and invigorating climate. There is
abundance of bathing, and its outlook on the land side is
t picturesquely bordered by a semi-circle of wooded foot-hills

Greenore Hotel.

The Entrance Hall,

42

New L. & N. W. S.S. ¦¦Greenor

which serve merely as the
outposts of the mountains
beyond. Whichever way
one may look, either by
hill or lake, the prospect
is a restful, pleasing, and
diversified one.
A closer acquaintance
with the Lough — nine miles
in length and between one
and a half and four miles
broad — may be secured by
boating and fishing parties,
and the Company's excursion steamer which voyages across to
Greencastle, Warrenpoint, and other places is also at the service of
tbe hotel guests. By the help of the Newry branch of the Dundalk,
Newry and Greenore Railway, which belongs to the London and
North-Western Railway Company, some interesting places on one
side of the lough come within half a day's trip of Greenore, the first
station out being
CARLINGFORD, an ancient little town at the base ofthe hill
known as Slieve Foy, and at the head of a cove which fronts the
broadest part of the lough. It used to send two members to Parlia
ment. It is said that St. Patrick on his second visit to Ireland
stepped ashore where the quay now stretches out, but Carlingford

Greencastle, Greenore.
43

really owed its existence to the Anglo-Normans, who made it into
a walled town. Parts of the massive fortifications, including towers,
still border the lake, and with them in the district are the aisles, the
central belfry, and part of the eastern window of a Dominican
monastery founded in I3°5-
But the noblest architectural feature in the town is the Castle of
King John, which has stood here for nearly 700 years, and which
not only commands the entrance to the harbour, but also the narrow
pass along the frontiers of Ulster, between the town and the
mountains. It is a huge irregular pile on a rock, out of which
several of the dungeons have been hewn. The ascent of Slieve Foy,
1,935 ft., amply repays the climber by a view which embraces sea,
lake, and mountain.

King John's Castle, Carlingford.
OMEATH. After leaving Carlingford (.Station] the railway
•crosses the Golden River, and passing along the shores of the lough
by the skirts of the Omeath mountains arrives at the little village of
that name, from which there is a ferry across to Warrenpoint,
half a mile away. The line soon after leaving Omeath crosses the
boundary line of Louth and Armagh, and Leinster and Ulster, and
Carlingford Lough is left behind for a river which accompanies the
railway for the next six miles to
NEWRY, which can also be reached in a circuitous direction from
Greenore in the opposite way — that is along the sea coast to
Dundalk — and then by travelling on the Gt. Northern route between
the two towns, or by Lough Steamer Greenore to Warrenpoint, and

44

thence by rail. Dundalk,
by the way, is worth
a visit if only to see
the great feudal fortress
known as Castle Roche,
which crowns a great
buttress of rock, seven
miles from the port.
Newry itself, 13 miles
away from Greenore, is
a well-built place ot
considerable trade, 50
miles from Dublin and
30 from Belfast. Its
main historical import
ance arises from the fact
that in the mountainous
country between it and
Dundalk, Edward Bruce
made his desperate attempt to obtain the Irish throne shortly after
his brother Robert secured the crown of Scotland. His hopes and
his life ended at the Hill of Faughart, where the English forces
won a great victory on May 2Sth, 1 31 S. One ofthe prettiest places
between Newry and Dundalk is Ravensdale Park.
NARROW WATER. From Newry to the other side, or the
Mourne Mountain side of Carlingford Lough, the road and the rail,
both by the side of the river, have attractions. The route goes near
Greenwood Park and the hamlet of Green Island, and at Narrow

Omeath Round Tower.

The Promenade, Warrenpoint.
4S

Water the half a mile width of the river, above and below, contracts
through a rocky barrier into a slender" channel. Here a castle was
erected in 1212 and rebuilt in 1663. Some ofthe ruins still remain.
Near at hand the fine turretted Elizabethan mansion of Mount Hall
in extensive grounds, shows the way to
WARRENPOINT, entirely; a modern^town, and essentially a
holiday resort, with a little harbour at one end. Its sea baths are
on an elaborate architectural scale, and give the appearance of a
miniature pier. The pebbly shore shelves gradually, affording safe
open bathing. The town radiates from a big square, and provides
all the amenities of a twentieth century holiday place, including
public gardens, tennis courts, and apavilion for dances and entertain
ments. In addition to numerous boarding and apartment houses,

Kilbroney River, Rostreoor.
several of the farms in the neighbourhood let off rooms to visitors,
and during the summer months the population rises from three
thousand to ten thousand.
ROSTREVOR, some two and a half miles further along the
front, and by a road which in several places resembles an avenue, is
m a sense a continuation of Warrenpoint. The two places are
joined by a horse-tram and a motor-bus service. But whilst
Warrenpoint stands on a p.ain, Rostrevor has just room to nestle at
Je foo and on one of the low flanks of the hill known as Slieve
by a sS f h°feV°rtSheItered endre'-V °" the north »d east
by a series of hills and by extensive woods. The temperature
esptcia„y durmg winter> is much ^ ^ ^^temperature,

46

Rostrevor con
sists partly of a
country village on
an elevation,
through which
there is a beauti-
lul drive along a
mountain valley
to the old church
yard and dilapi
dated church of
Kilbroney and to
Fairy Hill. The
more modern and
aristocratic part
of Rostrevor strag
gles along the
quay where the
Great Northern
RailwavCompany — as also at War-
lenpoint — have a
comfortable hotel.
One of the most
enjoyable of the
many excursions
from the quay is the ascent of Slieve Ban, the tempting wood at the
outset offering an irresistible bait, and on the way it is usual to make
a little detour to visit Cloughmore, an isolated rock weighing some
30 tons and resting on a shoulder ofthe mountain. How the stone
got there will always jemain an unsolved riddle.
KILKEEL. The railway has been left behind at Warrenpoint,
its place being taken by Messrs. Norton and Company's cars which
run several times a day across South Down to Kilkeel, some ten
miles from Rostrevor, and then, rounding the corner, along the east
coast to Newcastle. The inland route is by way of the picturesque
hamlet of Killowen, from which the late Lord Chief Justice Russell
took his peerage, and which is also known in modern days as the
scene of the celebrated Velverton marriage. Then it meanders past
Mourne Park and the Whitewater trout stream before the first part
ends at Kilkeel, half a mile from the sea. Kilkeel's best possession
is its spacious bay. From the town a car runs south to
GREENCASTLE, five miles away, and connected to Greenore
opposite by steamer. The old castle offers a capital excuse for a trip
across the lake. It belongs to the Anglo-Norman times, and the massive
keep and the battlements still continue in a good state of preservation.

Kilbroney Old Cross, Rostreuor.

47

THE EAST DOWN COAST. Kilkeel is nearly half-way
between Warrenpoint and Newcastle, and once well out of the neat
town a closer acquaintance is made with the higher peaks of the
Mourne Mountains, Slieve Donard coming well into view. The
coast becomes wild, rocky and precipitous, with chasms and caves
breaking up the lines, but the pastures and corn lands stretching
away to the hill sides bear evidence of careful cultivation. The blue
flower of the flax in the season makes a bright bit of colour in the
scene, and later on in the year the odour of the flax in pits under
going the first of its processes after being gathered affects the visitor
in quite another fashion. The coast route, often a hundred feet
above the sea, passes by the hamlet and harbour of Annalong,
Glassdrummond, marches across the; Bloody Bridge, draws near
Donard's Cave and the chasm known as ^Maggie's Leap, and sinks
from its heights above the sea to the level of the beach as it enters
Newcastle. No visitor to County Down'should miss this picturesque
journey by car.
The return journey from Newcastle to Warrenpoint — if Belfast
be not the object of the trip — can also be made by car in an inland
direction among the passes of the hills, west to Hilltown, and then
on the other side of the Mourne Mountains through a wild .moorland
country to Carlingford Lough.

Promenade, Newcastle.

48

NEWCASTLE, 3S miles from Bebast— and not to be
contounded with the Limerick or the Wicklow towns of that name —
as a holiday resort has so many natural advantages that it would be
impossible in a limited space to do more than indicate a few of them.
The Belfast and County Down Railway has done much to popularise
Newcastle. In recent years its progress has been considerable, and
now that the Great Northern Railway has connected it with their
main systems by means of a branch line from Banbridge — which
allows of an alternative route from Greenore or Belfast — its popularity
should rise by leaps and bounds. View it from where you will, its
situation at the foot of the bold peak of Slieve Donard (2,796 ft.)
with the other Mourne Mountains stretching landwards in a long
chain, is charming.

A Mourne Mountain Glen, Newcastle.
The esplanade proper with its green sward and flower beds is 01
limited dimensions, but the broad high-road rising high on the rocks
to the south is a promenade which would grace any watering place.
Already the town has a frontage of about a mile in length, and the
possibilities of extension are practically unlimited. The caverned
rocks ; the glens furrowing the steep sides of the mountains, finely
wooded on their lower slopes ; the long bend of inviting sands ; the
fine drives inland as well as along the bay ; and access to the three
lovely demesnes of Donard Lodge, Tullymore Park and Castlewellan,
iu each of which day after day may be spent without satiety, combine
to make Newcastle a place to go back to again and again.

49

The chief hotel, known as the "Slieve Donard," belongs to the
Belfast and County Down Railway Company, and is a first-class
establishment in every respect. Adjoining it on a breezy stretch of
sand dunes are the links ofthe County Down Golf Club. There is
an eighteen-hole course for the strong-armed sex, and a separate
nine -hole course for ladies.
DUNDRUM is a little village four miles to the north of
Newcastle, with the remains of a Norman Castle on a dominating
knoll, and the scenery between the two is such that it is best to train
to Dundrum and walk back. On the way a good example of a
cromlech is seen isolated in a field on the right, about a score of
yards from the road.

Dundrum Castle, nr. Newcastle.
ARDGLASS, until the herrings deserted its neighbourhood,
was the chief fishing station in Ireland. The industry is still
indulged in, but the people are now devoting their energies largely
towards catering for visitors, of whom the number is yearly increasing.
It is reached by a branch line, about seven miles long, from
Downpatrick. DOWNPATRICK, Ilj miles north of Newcastle, on the
County Down Railway, demands at least a complete summer day ii
one is to enjoy all the interest that it has to offer. In Pagan days it
was the headquarters of the kings of Ulster. In the fifth century
St. Patrick, whose grave is marked in the adjoining churchyard by a

5°

huge granite monolith, founded the Cathedral, which, like the town,
was named after him. During the four centuries ending with the
thirteenth, the town was plundered by the Danes half a dozen times.
The Normans under de Courcy seized it in 1 1 77, and there are still
in the vicinity remains 01 some ot the numerous abbeys then founded.
The great county gaol, now closed, is a glaring example of how
something like £60,000 has been thrown away.
Looking downwards from the hill on the verge of which it and
the cathedral stand, notice should be given to the fine " rath " or
earthwork below, three-quarters of a mile in circumference. The
present cathedral, severely perpendicular in style, only dates from
1829, but the east doorway and some much battered statues of St.
Patrick, St. Columba, and St. Brigid above it are said to have
belonged to the old structure built in 141 2.

St. Patrick's Graue, Downpatrick.

Bangor, Donaghadee, Carrickfergus, Antrim,
Whitehead and Armagh.

The capital and leading port of Ulster and the most important
commercial city in Ireland, Belfast is fortunate not only in possessing
some seaside environs extremely popular as holiday resorts, but in
being a favourable centre for easily visiting by rail, in the course of
day or half-day trips, a number of interesting places in the counties
of Antrim, Down, and Armagh. The Great Northern, the Midland
(Northern Counties Committee), and the Belfast and County Down
Railways all have important stations in the city, and the two last
named make it their headquarters. In addition to being easily

High Street, Belfast.

[ Photo. : W. Lawrence

52

accessible by express trains from Greenore, on the Holyhead route,
there is also a direct daily boat service to Belfast from Fleetwood by
the joint London and North-Western and the Lancashire and
Yorkshire Companies' route, and from Heysham by the Midland
route. This service gives a longer sea passage than the Holyhead
one, and an opportunity for a night's sleep.
The story of Belfast adds an interesting chapter to the history of
commerce, though its claim to attention as one of the big cities ot
the world only arose within the last half-century. In the times of
the Normans a strong castle was built at the tideway ford, because of
the strategic importance of the site, and as usual houses began to
spring up around. In the troublous times of the sixteenth century
the town was twice burnt and great fights raged round it. Scottish
colonies were planted in the district, and the original inhabitants

Royal Auenue, Belfast.

[Ph^to. . W Liiwience

expelled. The progress of the town, however, was such that the
description applied to it by one writer in 1780 was "a mere collection
of fishermen's huts." The linen industry was mainly responsible
for the great change that was to take place ; and gradually the growth
of the flax-spinning community attracted other industries. It was
begun in the reign of Charles the First, and spurred and improved
by the French refugees who, after the revocation of the Edict Oi
Nantes, flocked here and introduced the manufacture of the finer
qualities of linen.
In the ten years following 1861 the population leapt from 119,242
to 207,671 ; and now, besides its great linen industry, Belfast
possesses one of the largest ship-building yards in the world— where-
from Messrs. Harland and Wolff have sent forth the great White
Star liners— the largest rope works known, a distillery which pays
over a million and a half sterling in duty, and a tobacco factory

53

which pays a duty of nearly a million sterling. Its population,
348,965 in 1901, is variously estimated at from 350,000 to 370,000,
and its exports at about eight millions sterling.
Perhaps the two first things which attract the attention of visitors
to Belfast are the wideness of so many of its central thoroughfares,
and the number of fine buildings and shops in. their midst. The
clearness of the atmosphere, and the facilities provided by the thirty
miles of electric tramways for reaching almost every spot of interest in
brief time must also be mentioned. In a rapid tour of inspection,
the first public building on which the eye rests on leaving the great
quay is the Customs House with its many symbolical figures in
elaborate sculptured relief. Passing to the left of this you come to
the Albert Memorial Tower, strikingly isolated in the centre

Donegal Castle, Belfast.

PLuto. : W. Lawrence.

oi one of the chief streets, which its height of 147 feetjpleasingly
dominates. About three or four hundred yards further, a turn to the
left down Donegall Place brings you face to face with the new CityJHall,
where visitors have the privilege during most hours of the day 01
enjoying the effect of the magnificent coloured marbles of which a
considerable portion of the interior consists. Ireland, itself, is. rich in
marbles, but the largeness of the blocks and slabs necessary for this
ambitious scheme drove the builders to Italy and Greece. The build
ing, altogether, is a noble one, nobly situated, and reflects great credit
indeed on the city which spent ^300, coo upon it. The other build
ings are of the usual kind associated with an up-to-date municipality.
The library, museum, and four paiks are also worth a visit for the
treasures they contain ; and if you want some healthy exercise and a
comprehensive and delightful panorama of the city, its Lough, and

54

Bangor, Co. Down.
the country around, you can satisfy all your cravings by climbing the
boldly formed mountain known as Cave Hill, the foot of which may
be reached by tramcar in less than three miles journey from the
centre of the city. North, south, and west, too, the city has a
number of close neighbours where beauty and interest abound. A
day or too may be well spent in following, by means of the Belfast
and County Down Railway, the southern shores of the Lough to the
attractive resort of Bangor, and the quaint port of Donaghadee,
returning inland by way of Newtownards and Helen's Tower.
BANGOR owes its present and growing popularity to its breezy
situation at the southern extremity of Belfast Lough, and the fact
that it is only thirty minute's train ride away has made it one of the
best residential suburbs of Linenopolis. It has a promenade
constructed on a rocky foundation nearly two miles long, marine
gardens and golf links ; and additional sporting and picturesque
interest is afforded by the frequent yacht races organised by the
Royal Ulster Club, which has its headquarters here.
There is still a portion of the strong old castle on the quay, but
antiquarians will find only a fragment — a piece of the wall between
the churchyard and the grounds of Lady Clanmorris — ofthe abbey of
this ancient "City of the Saints," founded by St. Comgall in the
year A.D. 555. Of the magnificence of the foundation it is sufficient
to say that in 818, when the depredating Danes massacred the abbot
and nine hundred of the monks, the total strength ofthe monks and
students in residence was about three thousand. The Welsh Bangor
was named after the Irish, and it is related that when King Alfred
" founded or restored Oxford University he sent to the great school
of Bangor for Professors. '

55

DONAGHADEE, six miles away round the corner ofthe coast,
would still have been the Irish port for the mails to and from
Scotland but for its exposed situation. Something like ,£150,000
was spent on improving the harbour, but the scheme for also
establishing a regular passenger service with the Scottish Portpatriek
was abandoned for the one between Larne and Stranraer. But the
cause which led to this makes the little Irish port all the better as
a health resort; and as the beach consists of alternating sands,
pebbles, and rocks, there is a diversity of interest for the youthful
mind such as many a big popular place might well envy. A
curious feature of the village is the Danish "rath" or dun, which
rises about sixty feet high behind the esplanade, and which is
picturesquely topped by a castle-like building once used as a powder
magazine. NEWTOWNARDS is a typical Irish town— the largest and
busiest in County Down — about thirteen miles from Belfast. It has
two remarkably broad straight streets ; its cottages, outwardly at all
events, are kept bright with whitewash ; its old Town Hall faces a
spacious square ; and within a few minutes stroll there are an
interesting old ivy-clad church, a queer-looking old octagonal cross,
and the remains of a sixth century abbey.
HELEN'S TOWER, in the Clandeboye demesne belonging to
the Marquis of Dufferin, is clearly seen from the abbey referred to and
easily reached from either Newtownards or Bangor. In " Rokeby,"
Sir Walter Scott apostrophises " the lovely woods of Clandeboye" ;
and the famous " love's rock-built " Tower itself, built by the Marquis

Old Abbey. Newtownards.
56

Trout Fishers, Lough Neagh.
to enshrine the beautiful verses addressed to their son by Lady
Dufferin when he attained his majority in 1847, has beep further
enriched by verses trom the pens of Browning and Tennyson.
" Helen's Tower, here I stand
Dominant over sea and land ;
Son's love built me, and I hoi i
Mother's love enshrined in gold."
CARRICKFERGUS, on the Midland line, is the first place ot
exceptional interest on the north shore of Belfast Lou^h. It is a
considerable market town and one of th? oldest in Ireland, being in
Norman times in fact the capital of Ulster and a place of importance
when Belfast was practically non-existent. A substantial portion of
the old wall, with its north gate all but complete, is still to be seen,
and the castle is one ofthe few in Ireland still put to military uses.

Carrickfergus Castle.
57

It was built by John de Courcy, " Conqueror ot Ulidia," in 1 178.
King John resided there in 1210 ; and a century later it was captured
by Lord Edward Bruce and was the scene of his enthronement as
" King of Ireland." Dreadful scenes were enacted in and about its
massive walls right through the centuries until William of Orange
landed on a stone still to be seen at the end of one of the piers
enclosing the busy little harbour. About two miles away is the
pretty hamlet of Kilroot, where Dean Swilt ministered for a brief
time and the living of which he generously surrendered to a needy
curate .
WHITEHEAD, three miles further— 144 from Belfast— occupies
much the same position on the northern line of the Lough as Bangor
does on the south. Its hotels and boarding houses are substantially

The Gobblns, Whitehead.
built, and as the village — for it is little else — is entirely modern it
would need no strain on the stranger's imagination to think he was in
an English resort. The sands are attractive, the climate is bracing,
and in the adjoining peninsula known as Island Magee there is a fund
of surprising rock scenery and an equally amazing system of land
tenure probably unexampled elsewhere.
Along a goodly stretch of this precipitous coast known as " the
Gobbins " a narrow path has been cut out of the rocks. Where it
has been impossible to work round or over a headland owing to its
absolute uprightness, tunnels have been bored ; and in other places
chasms up which the big waves unceasingly boom and hiss have been
spanned by queerly designed bridges — one of them resembling a

58

Abbey Ruins, Armagh.

great skeletonised
tube. Naturally
such a scene is
visited by thous
ands during the
summer season.
In the winter the
footings of some of
the bridges are re
moved owing to
the heavier seas.
ANTRIM is
one of at least
two other places
calling for a visit from the sojourner in Belfast. The railway
journey takes three-quarters of an hour. It possesses one of the
most perfect round towers in the country ; it provides you with a
glimpse at it's only picturesque corner, of Lough Neagh, the largest
inland lake in the British Isles ; and in the grounds of the adjoin
ing Shane's Castle, four and a half miles in extent, a pleasant day
may be spent.
ARMAGH, reached by the Great Northern line in about an hour
and a quarter from Belfast, is attractive not only because of its having
been the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland since St. Patrick founded
the See about 455, but because of its two cathedrals each standing on
its own height overlook
ing a town where the
doors of the poor adjoin
those of the well-to-do ;
because of the ancient
abbey, the Primate's
Palace, and other in
teresting buildings ; be
cause of the beautiful
country around it, and
the wealth of history
investing it from the
earliest Christian years.
The College of Armagh,
founded by St. Patrick,
had at one time, ac
cording to many authori
ties, no fewer than
seven thousand
students. St. Patrick's Cathedral, Armagh.

59

ilft^Ai/miJi Cov&i

;_

The Giant's Causeway.
Larne, Cushendall,
Ballycastle, The Causeway, and Portrush.

Larne. One of the most enjoyable of the excursions from Belfast
is that around the Antrim Coast, via Ballycastle, to Portrush. It may
take from two to five days, according to the time spent at different
points en route. After rail from Belfast, the journey is by car from
Larne, which lies 23^ miles to the north of Belfast, and is connected
with it by the Midland Railway (Northern Counties Committee). The
town owes most of its popularity to two natural advantages ; its safe
and picturesque harbour, which has made it the Irish port for the?
shortest sea-route from England and Scotland ; and its situation,
which has resulted in it becoming the starting-point for what is
unquestionably one of the most glorious coast drives in the
British Isles.
Tourists from most parts of England by this sea route have the
privilege of breaking their journey in order to catch a glimpse by the
way of the wonders of the English Lakeland. Between Carlisle and
Stranraer — the Scottish port of sailing — too, there are many more
things worth seeing, notably the fine remains of the ancient Roman
Wall built to keep back the Picts and Scots. Lame does not offer
much to the sight-seer. It possesses several substantial hotels and
boarding houses, in its by-ways there are some tempting bits for the
artist, boating and bathing are safe, and there are admirable roads
for driving and cycling excursions.
ROUTES TO PORTRUSH. There are two ways— by rail or
by road— of reaching from Belfast the chief watering place and the
rocky wonderland of the North of Ireland. Those who choose the

60

former— 67 miles from the Northern Counties Committee's station at
York Road— and whose main objective does not demand haste will
do well to make two turnings from the direct route. The first is at
Ballymena— an interesting town itself and delightfully situated—
where a branch line runs to Parkmore for the lovely woods and
waterfalls of Glenariff ; and the second at Ballymoney, whence
another short line deposits one at Ballycastle and within easy reach
of Fair Head.
THE COAST ROUTE. Either going or returning, however,
no one should on anv account miss the fifty-four miles of road along
the coast to or from Larne. If you cannot drive or cycle — and the
driving is cheap and the facilities ample enough now-a-days — use
the means given to you by Nature. There is hardly a " tame " spot the
whole of the way. Headland after headland projecting far into
the green and blue of the waters are passed only to reveal new and
ever-changing beauties and objects of interest to the scientific as well
as the romantic and poetical mind.
The road itself, constructed at a cost of .£37,000 to avoid the
" impossible '' gradients ofthe old cliff way, has interesting lessons
for the engineer ; the many strata of the precipitously mountainous
rocks, and the outcropping of the eccentric columnar basalt peculiar
to Antrim, will attract the eye ofthe geologist ; the lanes and woods
and glens are among the " happiest hunting grounds " for hosts of
botanists and " sun-artists," and everywhere the life ofthe peasantry
and the villages, with their curious antiquities and traditions, have a
charm for the observant and thoughtful.

Honeycomb, Giant's Causeway.
61

Natural Arch near Cushendall.
GLENARM, ni miles above Larne, is the first village and
stopping-place, and but for some limestone and iron-ore industries,
would make an ideal holiday resort, for the little bay on which it
stands and the glen and cliffs which pen it in on three sides lure one
to rest here. Almost in the heart of the little village is the chiet
residence of the Earls of Antrim, Glenarm Castle ; and picturesque
bridges, waterfalls, and monastic remains are within reach of the
poorest walker. Carnlough, about three miles further, has recently
made considerable progress as a watering place, and in another four
miles the traveller reaches the imposing headland of
GARRON POINT, by which is the fine castellated seat of the
Marquis of Londonderry, now converted into a popular hotel, and
near which, on the rock of Dunmaul, about 300 feet above the level
of the sea, is an interesting ancient fort and entrenchments.
CUSHENDALL, the most popular— and rightly so— of all the
villages on the east coast of Antrim, stands about 25 miles from
Larne. Its people have no affinity with the majority of the present
inhabitants of Antrim. They are descendants of the Celts who were
driven by fire and sword out of the rich lands by Cromwell and William
"the Third. To see the beautiful Vale of Glenariff from Cushendall it is
necessary to retrace one's steps a short distance through a natural rocky
arch, by the ruins of an old castle, and past several curious caves cut
out of the red sandstone — by smugglers, it is said. The domain of
Glenariff is " preserved," but the production of a tourist ticket secures
free admission as it is in the possession of the Midland Railway Com
pany (Northern Counties Committee) ; and nowhere in the British Isles
can a day be spent with keener delight than here. There are more

62

extensive woods, finer trees, deeper glens, and greater falls in
numberless places, but nowhere is the combination of these features
more happy, and perhaps nowhere are there more falls and cascades —
ranging in depth from a few to ninety feet — within the same short
distance. A mile and a half from Cushendall is an ancient weed-
grown churchyard reputed to be the burial place ofthe famous bard
Ossian ; and, a little distance away are the slopes of Slemlsh, sacred
in the eyes of all Irishmen as the mountain on which St. Patrick as a
captive tended sheep and pigs. There are several hotels at Cushendall.
CUSHENDEN is another charmingly situated little village, or
rather hamlet, about three miles along the coast. Glen Dun, at the
mouth of which the hamlet stands, offers much the same contrast
with Glenariff which would be obtained by comparing Derbyshire's

Cushendall.
Darley Dale with Yorkshire's Ingleton Falls ; and in a grove on
one of its hillsides is a curious stone altar believed to be one of the
earliest gathering points of Christians in the country.
FAIR HEAD, the majestic promontory at the extreme north-east
of Ireland, may be glanced at in the course of the journey from
Cushendall to Ballycastle, but nothing short of a day will serve to
give a true impression of its nature, although nowadays there is a lane
well enough laid for the average vehicle to take one within a few
hundred yards of the cliffs. The intervening ground, however, is
rough and in places swampy, and there is much to be enjoyed by
boating round the headland, which is hidden to those who hasten
along the cliff path. 63

The wild beauty of Murlough Bay, the freak of nature which ha
bridged the gulf of the Grey Man's Path with a fallen length of
basaltic column, the great greenstone pillars thirty feet thick and
three hundred feet in height piled on another three hundred fee
of coal strata, and the lake with its ancient crannog or place of
refuge built on wooden piles may be named as among the
accepted "interests" of the county.
BALLYCASTLE, served by the branch railway from Bally
money, and four miles from Fair Head, is making an effort to contest
the right of Portrush as a premier watering place on the North Coast.
Hotels are springing up, boarding houses are numerous, and the fine
wooded avenue' connecting1 the quay part of the town with the main

Glen Dun.
part will soon have a continuous line oj dwellings. A few hundred
yards on the main road to Fair Head are the remains of the Franciscan
Abbey of Bonamargy.
CARRICK-A-REDE, the " rock in the track," was evidently a
part of the mainland at one time, but the sea has cut a channel sixty
feet wide between them. For the purpose of waylaying the salmon
" in the track," the chasm has been spanned at a height of eighty feet
by the remarkable swinging bridge of ropes and narrow planks which
attracts to it visitors from the most distant parts of the world. Until
recently, it was unquestionably a feet of daring to attempt to cross in
a wind, for the only support was a single cable on one side. Now,
however, with one on each side to grasp in case of necessity, safety is
more assured.

64

^¦-~??i A>--
Dunluce Castle, Portrush.
THE GIANT S CAUSEWAY. Those who desire to see this
unique product of Nature's crucible at leisure, and in their own
company will do well, in approaching it from the east, to take the
old road through the hamlet of Dunseverick — where they will have
an opportunity of admiring the strength of the position of an old
castle — and so to Port Moon, whence a footpath traverses about a
dozen fine headlands on its way to the Causeway proper. By this means
time is saved, and an opportunity is grasped of seeing most of what is
to be seen of the marvels of the cliffs, though, of course, as in the case
of Fair Head, a journey by boat is necessary to complete the visit.
The orthodox entrance is by the two hotels, and by a winding
downward road which comes directly on the orthodox sights. So much
has already been written of the many phenomena, of the igneous
origin of these many-sided forty thousand crystalline colunms split so
regularly by the forces of Nature into their concave and convex
sections, of the numerous interesting caves and caverns, of the
grandeur ol the scenes in sunshine and in storm, and of the wealth of
tradition which throws a glamour over all, that it is unnecessary here
to dwell upon them.
PORTRUSH may be reached from the Causeway, either by
private jaunting-car or by electric tramcar ; but whichever be chosen
a halt should be made on the way to view Dunluce Castle — perhaps
the most picturesque ruins of the kind in the county, as the extensive
and high walls fixed on the verge seem to be part of the hundred feet
of precipitous rock on which they stand— and the many arched and
caverned white rocks intervening between the Castle and the fine golf
links which have done much to make the name of Portrush familiar
C 65

to the sporting section
of the British race.
These links, in fact,
are said to be second to
none, except, possibly,
the Scottish ones at St.
Andrews. The course
of eighteen holes is
about four miles long
and has many " sport
ing " bits among the
sand dunes, and to lady
Ladies' Wishing Arch. Portrush. players it is no small
attraction that they too have a separate course of the full eighteen
holes, for in most places where they are provided for at all it is limited
to nine. The town, ranged for the most part along a narrow peninsula
with the sea on both sides, gets the full benefit of all the breezes that
blow. The bathing is of the best, alike in rock pools and along two
fine stretches of firm sand. The dashing of the Atlantic breakers on
the black rocks of Ramore Head offers infinite interest to amateur
photographers, and is a never-ceasing source of wonderment to
thousands of others.
CASTLEROCK, Deny is even richer than Cork— and that is
saying a good deal — in attractive rail excursions. One of the best of
these is to Castlerock, 25 miles N.W. from Deny and 5 miles N.E. of
Coleraine. Though on the same coast-line as^Portrush, from which

Carrick-a-Rede. 66

.

is distant about 6
miles, Castlerock has
many attractions pe
culiar to itself. It has
been specially recom
mended for ils salu
brity, bracing atmos
phere, and its lovely
strand, which stretches
from the mouth ofthe
Bann to Downhill.
Here Sea Bathing
maybe enjoyed in full
perfection. Giant's Head, White Rocks, Portrush.
Salmon and brown and sea trout abound in the contiguous streams,
while deep sea fishing galore is also to be had. fishing, to the
sportsman, is one ofthe chief allurements of
STRABANE, which lies on the river Mourne, close to its
confluence with Foyle, about 15 miles up from Derry. There is a
-0,-hole Golf Course within five minutes walk of the Hotel, along the
river banks, with good hazards of thorn fences, ditches, etc. Visitors
lee, 1/- per day : 2/6 per week. Length of course, about 2100 vards.
-Strabane. in Iact, is an Ideal Tourist Centre, as may be seen from the
lollowing facts — It has direct railway communication with Derry,
Belfast, and Dublin.

Inishowen,
Moville, Malin Head, and Buncrana.

Londonderry— or "Derry," as Irishmen who resent the Plantation
of Ulster by the London Companies, or who like brevity, call it-
is the chief gateway to Donegal and the north-west of Ireland : a city
with both a past and a future. It is admirably situated on an almost
encircling bend of the broad and navigable river Foyle, and among
its direct steamship services is one twice a week to and from Fleet
wood by the joint London and North-Western and Lancashire and
Yorkshire boats. It is in direct communication by rail with Greenore,
via Newry or Dundalk, and is some three hours from Belfast (York
Road) by the Midland Railway, or Belfast (Victoria Street) by the
Great Northern Railway. The big Atlantic liners, however, await
at Moville, near the mouth of Lough Foyle, the transference of
emigrants and travellers to and from the Derry packet.
The city, of course, has long since grown beyond the confines of
the old walls, which withstood one of the most memorable sieges of
later times ; but a walk round these walls, with one or two detours,
is sufficient to give the visitor a fairly comprehensive impression of
the objects of interest, of which there are many. The strength of the
walls is everywhere visible. The promenade they constitute is quite
thirty feet broad in places, and the photographer will find many

subjects for his choice in and about the i battlements and bastions,
where a number of old guns still thrust their mouths at the embrasures,
including the famous one known as " Roaring Meg," the loudness of
whose voice " hourly cheered the hearts of the besieged and appalled
those ofthe besiegers."
As so much has been written of the siege of the city by the forces
of James the Second in 16S9, it is sufficient here to simply point out
that ofthe 7,500 active defenders nearly 3,200 were swept away by
fatigue, hunger, and disease, apart from the thousand of others who
were sacrificed before the war vessels sent from England burst through
the boom across the river, poured in fresh supplies of food, and thus
caused the beleaguering army to abandon the siege which had then
lasted 105 days.

"Roaring Meg" and Walker's Monument, Londonderry.
The most prominent object on the walls, or in fact anywhere in
the city, is the lofty Doric column known as the Walker Monument,
with a colossal figure of the Rev. George Walker, one of the chief
heroes of the besieged, on the top, and with inscriptions commemor
ating the deeds of some of his fellow leaders in the fight. The
Cathedral, on the summit of the hill round which the city is built,
and adjoining the walls, should be visited for the many interesting
objects it holds. The structure, itself, has been so much enlarged,
altered and restored, that little of its ancient characteristics remain.
Other notable buildings include the Gothic Guildhall, the Court
House, the Apprentice Boys' Hall, the Roman Catholic Cathedral of
St. Eugene, Foyle College, the Government School of Art and, a

69

mile north ofthe town, the Magee Presbyterian College, erected at a
cost of ,£20,000 bequeathed by a Mrs. Magee, of Dublin.
Besides its steamship services, the city is well served by railways
connecting with every part of the country where lines at present exist.
Those who like the life of a city around them even on a holiday will
find "Derry" an admirable centre for excursions. The eastern
shore of Lough Foyle, although flat in itself, has a background of
high hills stretching in the direction of Coleraine ; and Castlerock,
with its delightful beach and gold links ; Port Stewart with its ever
booming seas and reminiscences of the novelist Charles Lever ; and
Portrush are all within a comfortable day's journey to and fro. On
the other side, sandwiched as it were between Lough Foyle and
Lough Swill)', is the

The Walker Monument.
INISHOWEN PENINSULA, now opened out by the
Londonderry and Lough Swilly line of railway running as far north
as Rashenny and Carndonagh, and offering many inducements to the
angler in particular. For others there are fine bold cliffs, pretty
bays, forts, castles, and man)' objects of antiquarian interest.
MOVILLE, where the Atlantic liners from Glasgow and Liver
pool to New York, Montreal, and Quebec call, is a pleasant little
watering-place. The easiest method of reaching it is by steamer
from Derry. A few miles further along the coast, passing a four
teenth century castle, a modern fort which, with another at Magilligan
Point, guards the entrance to the Foyle, and a lighthouse, you reach
Inishowen Head, with cliffs three hundred feet high.

70

MALIN HEAD, the most
northerly point of Ireland, should
be seen because of the wildness
of its surroundings. Great
jagged masses of rock thrust
themselves upwards almost ver
tically, and the significant title
of "Hell's Hole" has been
conferred on one narrow channel
along which big waves rage
and break. BUNCRANA, on Lough
Swilly, 12 miles from Derry, is,
however, the leading health resort in the peninsula, and rightly so,
for it is charmingly placed and is convenient for excursions into
north-west Donegal. The little town, too, is an enterprising one.
There are plenty of hotels and ooarding-houses, and the more
primitive methods of lighting have been ousted by electricity.
Yachting, driving, hshing and bathing share the chief honours. Ol
the drives, that through the narrow and picturesque Gap of Mamore
should be taken, because of the panorama of views to be obtained
over the length of Lough Swilly and into the heart of the Donegal
Highlands.

The Wild Coast of Donegal.

Mill Bridge and Falls, Buncrana.

71

Donegal

Letterkenny, Portsalon, Rosapenna, Glenties,
Dunfanaghy, and Carrick.

The northern gateway to Donegal is Derry, but the county can
just as advantageously be visited from the south by Ballyshannon or
Bundoran, which are on the direct line of railway from Dublin (Gt.
Northern) ; from Greenore, via Enniskillen or via Portadown; and
from Belfast. The Midland Great Western line from Dublin (Broad
stone Station) to Sligo joins up to Bundoran by a car service, and by
this Sligo connection a
tour of Connemara and
Achill Island starting at
Galway can also be
made in conjunction
with Donegal.
Travelling in this
wild western part of
Ireland is to day a
very different experience
from what it was until
comparatively recently.
There are still in places
long distances neces
sitating cycle or car to
get from one hotel to
another, although there
are regular mail and
tourist car routes, but Carved Mantelpiece in Donegal Castle.

The Harbour, Donegal.
these are becoming shortened every year, and the railway systems
have now thrust out such long limbs that it is at least possible
in a day's ride from anv part of these highlands to touch one
station or another.
There is probably not another county in the British Isles which
offers more variety of mountain, valley, river and cliff scenery, and
all so free of access ; which possesses a warmer-hearted race of
people ; and which is enriched with such wealth of history and
tradition and of tangible relics of the past. The angler, the
sportsman, and the golfer account for the bulk of visitors, but the
lovers of wild scenery are coming in increasing numbers every year.
To those desirous ol touring Donegal, the easy way is to take
full advantage of the inland railways from Derry to Strabane,
Stranorlar, and Ballyshannon, with offshoots to Letterkenny and
Burton Port, to Glenties, and to Killybegs. Then, if necessary, it is

possible from a railway station, by car, cycle, or walk to visit the still
more attractive places of interest dotting the deeply indented coast
line. From Derry, by rail, one of the interior centres is
LETTERKENNY, a neat little town built on the slope of a hill.
It is well situated for the purposes of those who delight in sight
seeing from the side seats of the jaunting car. The beautiful and
interesting river and mountain scenery around Gartan Lough and
Kilmacrenan are easy of access.
GARTON was the birthplace of St. Columba in A. D. 521, and
on the hillside a big stone is puinted out as the bed on which his
mother, the Princess Ethne, gave birth to him. Emigrants have
resorted to the bed because there is a tradition that anyone sleeping

Seven Arches, Portsalon.
upon it will never know home-sickness ! And at an adjoining holy
"station" bearing the name of St. Columba wonderful cures have
been wrought for centuries.
KILMACRENAN still possesses some portions of the monas
tery at which, it is said, St. Columba was educated. The river
scenery in the district is charming and anglers are numerous, for the
Lennon is one of the favourite sporting waters of Donegal. To
others the chief objects of interest are the famous Well and Rock of
Doon. The miraculous powers of the former are attested by the
numerous crutches and staffs and rags left behind by the cripples who
have been cured. The Rock was the place where the O'Donnells,
in the pride of their great power were proclaimed lords of Tyrconnel,
the ancient name of Donegal.

74

Leac-au-Bocain and Malin Head, Portsalon.
Turning now to the north coast, towards the mouth of Lough
Swilly, PORTSALON is reached during the summer months by motor
car service from Letterkenny in connection with the principal cross-
channel routes, passengers changing for Letterkenny at Strabane
(G.N.I. Rly.)
The motor drive occupies an hour and is through some of the
most beautiful scenery in Co. Donegal. Another route is by
bi-weekly steamboat service on Tuesdays and Fridays from Fahan to
Portsalon in connection with train from Londonderry. A steam ferry
from Fahan crosses the lake to the village of
PORTSALON, it should be explained, is an hotel, not a
village, but it is a remarkably commodious one for so remote a district
and admirably conducted. Among its attractions are a splendid
iS-hole golf links one minute's walk from the hotel, good brown trout
fishing, safe and excellent bathing, croquet, tennis, etc. From it some
curious and wildly interesting cliff and cave scenery is to be enjoyed.
Geologists will be especially attracted by the manner in which the
"Seven Arches" have been formed by the action of the water,
and by the astonishing examples of contorted rock in the vicinity.
RATHMULLEN, which itself could be made into a popular
holiday resort by enterprise and money. It possesses the substantial
ruins of an abbey of Norman Irish origin, and an inviting harbour.
In " The Flight ofthe Eagle," Mr. Standish O'Grady has woven an
enthralling story of how the famous "Red Hugh" O'Donnell as a
boy was here treacherously captured by one of Elizabeth's Captains in
15S7 ; of his two escapes from Dublin castle ; of his after career, and,

75

Mulroy Bay, scene of the Leitrim Murder.
finally, of the melancholy flight of the chiet Irish Earls from
Rathmullen to France and Rome on September 14, 1607.
MILFORD, ten miles south-west of Portsalon, is a shapely
village seen to advantage on its steep incline from the golf links
close by ; and the country about is strikingly beautiful, especially
round the shoies of Mulroy Bay. In fact the view of the island-
studded bay from the hill over-topping Milford is one of the loveliest
to be obtained anywhere in the British Islands, and the abundance

Among the Islands of Mulroy Bay.
76

of colour about wood,
heath, and glen comes
as a boon after passing,
say, the bogland be
tween Rathmullen and
Milford. ROSAPENNA
holds much the same
position on Mulroy Bay
as Portsalon does on
Lough Swilly. The
hotel is probably unique
in one respect, being
built mainly of sweet-
scented Norwegian pine.
1 1 also has a history of its
own. In earlier years
the land around was a
waste of sand. In the
eighteenth century Lord
Boyne built a mansion
here and laid out gar
dens, but the sand
drifted over everything
in such huge banks that the place was abandoned and fell into
ruins. In 1843 Lord Leitrim made a wiser and more successful effort
by covering the desert with " bent " grass. Its effect was such that
the drifts were checked, and in 1S92 the present attractive hotel,
electrically lighted and containing over 100 rooms, was erected.

The Corkscrew, Mulroy Bay.

Mulroy Bay-
77

Doe Castle, Rosapenna.
Even to-day, nowever, the struggle has to be maintained by constant
re-plantings of this coarse root-matting grass. Fishing, bathing,
sailing, tennis, and fine cliff scenery are all to be enjoyed, and the
golf course is one or the finest.
A mile or so distant, on the shores of the eccentric Sheephaver.
Bay, is the little village of Downings, now one of the chief fishing
centres of Ireland promoted by the Congested Districts Board. The
nearest railway station, Creeslough, is eight miles from Rosapenna.
DUNFANAGHY marks the turn from the north to the west
coast. It is served by a railway, but it should be noted that the
village stands about five miles from the station. As a holiday centre
it is rapidly rising 'in
popularity because of
its being the only point
from which one can
comfortably revel in the
glories of Horn Head,
with its magnificent
headlands over six
hundred feet sheer, big
caverns, and clouds of
sea birds. At the end
of one of the caverns
is a large "blow-hole"
piercing to the top of
the rocks, and when
the tide is high the
waters are forced to a
considerable height into

A Bit of Old Donegal

78

Carrigan Head, Glencolumbkille.
the air with sounds like the repeated discharge of cannon, so loud
that they are easily heard a distance of ten miles. In clear weather
Tory Island, a home of legendary and other interest, rises out of the
water, eight miles away, like some vast battlemented castle.
GWEEDORE was first developed by Lord George Hill in 183S.
On purchasing some 23,000 acres of land, he in manv ways bettered
the conditions of life for the peasantry. Of him Carlyle said that in
all Ireland "and lately in any other land" he had seen " no such
beautiful soul " ; and of his work that it was " the largest attempt at
benevolence and benificence ever seen by me or like to be seen."
The hotel, too, was erected by Lord George, and is one of the
favourite resorts of anglers. Magnificent views are to be obtained
from the perfectly conical peak of Errigal (2,466 ft.) ; and near the
crag-built little port of Bunbeg, four miles away — a source of delight
in itself — there is a fine cataract on the river Clady.
BURTON PORT serves a country, the heart of which is broken
up into as many chains of lakes, large as well as small, as the sea
around is spangled with richly coloured rocky islands. The language
of a Ruskin could not do justice to a scene such as that to be
obtained from the high ground near the Coastguard Station. Some
day, when its beauties are better known, artists will make it famous.
DUNGLOE is another instance of a village being about live
miles from the railway station bearing its name. On a fair day it is
a busy little place, and the medley of things sold by auction in its
steep single street are almost as entertaining as the folks are
interesting. The shallow bay by which it stands is picturesque. In
the neighbourhood, it is said, there are over one hundred lakes.
many of which abound with brown and white trout, and this it is
that has made Dungloe the centre ofthe " Rosses Fishery."

79

GLENTIES is served by one ofthe branch lines ofthe County
Donegal Joint Committee, of which it is a terminus. The tourist
from Dungloe, however, will be well advised to reach it by means
of a light car by way of Doochary Bridge, for the mountain and dale
scenery en route is of the best. The village stands at the mouth of
two glens in the midst of a country of undulating and moorland
type, and is one of the chief centres of the cottage industries now
being so actively promoted in the " congested" districts of Ireland.
The fishing in the vicinity is good, game is plentiful, and among the
places of interest reachable are Fintown and the country round
Gartan already referred to.
ARDARA, at a point when the Owentocker River runs into
Loughros More Bay, lies in the heart of scenery as enchanting as
any in the country. The glens and mountains around offer endless
scope for excursions, and the fact that the railway at Glenties is only
six miles away is another advantage. Visitors should on no account
miss the magnificent coast views and the climb up the Pass of
Glengesh, which is said to be the steepest carriage road in the British
Isles. Of its general character it may be added that it bears a strong
resemblance to the head of Edale in Derbyshire, except that it is
much wilder. Ardara is one of the chief centres of the Irish
Industries Association founded by Lady Aberdeen.
GLENCOLUMBKILLE, 15 miles from Ardara by way of
Glengesh, is regarded as one of the "sights" of Carrick, the
nearest adjoining village, an hour's drive away. To the holy
"station" here Roman Catholics come from distant parts of the
world ; though to walk with bare feet round the sixteen ancient
sculptured crosses and other objects covering an area of about three

On the River Glen, Glencolumbkille.
80

miles of the roughest, stoniest ground, is a trial indeed to many
" dainty English ladies" who essay it.
Mounting the high hillside above this, you come in sight of what
has been aptly termed " a truly terrible coast" ; for the sea around
is simply littered with vast masses of rock torn away from the main
land in some great convulsion of Nature. Glen Head drops abruptly
into the sea from a height of 745 feet ; and Sturrall, another mass of
cliff, runs out lo sea with a jagged razor-like back that seems to offer
no security of footing whatever.
CARRICK, which may be reached by mail car — a vehicle of
the jaunting-car type — is within a distance of six miles. Most of the
journey is high on the uplands, where peat cutting for fuel may be
seen to perfection. Here, as in many other districts, the peasant

Killybegs Harbour.

women make the rivers their wash- tubs, the necessary hot water
being got from the shapely iron pot thrust into the peat fire
alongside. Like Gweedore and Portsalon, Carrick is well provided
with hotel accommodation. It also shares with Ardara the honour
of being the centre of the Donegal homespun industry, and is the
point from which to view the grandeur of Slieve League, the
mountain cliff which rises precipitously out of the sea to the height of
1,972 feet, a glowing mass of coloured rock mosaic unrivalled
anywhere in Ireland. The Giant's Causeway cliffs are fine ; but
think what the effect would be if five such escarpments were placed
one on top of another. The " One Man Path '' on Slieve League is
a trial for the nerves. Always steep, irregular, and narrow, at one

of its highest points it is a yard wide for some thirty yards and totally
unprotected. On one side is the Atlantic 1,700 feet below, and on
the other a mountain lake 1,200 feet below, the two sides being
all but sheer.
KILLYBEGS, ten miles from Carrick by the mailcar route, is
the most western point to which the Donegal Joint Committee's line
penetrates. Situated on one of the finest and safest harbours in
Ireland, in a country rich agriculturally as well as in natural beauty,
it has a brightness of appearance which will make it more fascinating
to many to whom the wilder scenes farther north do not appeal.
The thick carpets here produced are of a quality said to rival the
well known productions of the East and are beginning to be
appreciated by the Irish themselves, for the new City Hall of Belfast
has been fitted with them.
Among the "lions" ot the district are the beautiful sands ot
Fintragh a mile or two away, the lighthouses guarding the rocks at the
harbour entrances, the caves of Muckros Head, the picturesque
village of Kilcar, the fishing industry fostered by the Congested
Districts Board in Teelin Harbour, and the many prettv islets
piercing the coast on the way to Donegal town.
DONEGAL town is in constant touch with the railway services
from Strabane in the north and those from Ballyshannon, Bundoran,
and every other part of the country to the south. It is several miles
from Ballyshannon. To reach it from the south necessitates crossing
Ballyshannon, but this is rather an advantage than otherwise, as
Ballyshannon has so many things to show to strangers. As the old
home of the O'Donnells, chieftains of Tyrconnel, Donegal contains
two relics of the former greatness of the county — a castle and an
abbey. The Castle should be seen because, although in ruins, it was
at one time a fine specimen of the Elizabethan order of architecture
grafted on to much more ancient foundations. In the days when the

. Glimpse of Carrigart.
82

Irish clans incessantly warred against one another, as well as against
the common enemy the English, every precaution hail to fie taken
against surprises, and this explains why every chamber in the Castle
had its secret outlet through passages in the deep walls. The most
interesting portion now remaining is the finely carved stone fireplace
in the banqueting hall. The Abbey, silhouetted against the sunny
waters of Donegal Bay and a few hundred yards from the pretty little
harbour, makes an exquisite picture, and there is sufficient of it left
to give some indication of its dimensions. It dates from 1474, and
is noted as having been the home of the famous " Four Masters" who
wrote the Annals of Irish history.
GOLFING AND ANGLING IN DONEGAL.
The accompanying tables may be useful to those following these
recreations : —

Golf

L

ink

s.

HOLES

HOLES
Ardara
9
Milford
9
Buncrana
9
Portnoo
iS
Bundoran
iS
Portsalon
18
Dawros Bay
9
Rathmullen
9
Dunfanaghy
iS
Rosapenna,
Lisfannon
9
near Carrigart
Rossnowlagh
18 9
ANGLING.
There is hardly an hotel in Donegal which is not a good centre
for anglers, but the following districts may be enumerated as among
the best : — Ardara Carrick Cweedore
Belleek Dungloe Ramelton
Ballyshannon Gartan Rosapenna
Anglers are particularly enjoined to take out their salmon
licences — cost £1 — and to note that such a licence is available
for salmon and white trout all over Ireland.
ITO
^3
Lough Erne.
Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Enniskillen,
Belleek and Clones.

From Dublin, Greenore, or Belfast the most convenient way to
reach and explore Donegal, particularly the southern portion of the
county, is by the special trains which run to Bundoran and which stop
at Ballyshannon, four miles away ; or by the train to Sligo and a car to
Bundoran. For Bundoran is the most popular seaside resort on the
north-west coast. Ballyshannon is 1 1 miles south by rail of Donegal
town, and Donegal town has for neighbours Killybegs, Carrick, and
Glencolumbkille. From Ballyshannon, too, in the eastward direc
tion, there is left for visitation the county of Fermanagh and the
Lough Erne district.

Salmon Leap, Ballyshanno
s4

S S. Lady of the Lake at Castle Caldwell, Lcugh Erne.
BALLYSHANNON, the southern gate oi Donegal, and one
of its most thriving towns, climbs the low hills on each side of the
river Erne, first at the point where the tidal estuary ends. In
ancient days as the frontier town of the O'Donnells, and as the
seat of the great chieftain Red Hugh O'Donnell, it passed through
stirring episodes, and many a black deed and many a heroic deed
was done at its gates. The old bridge of many arches, the great
salmon leap and falls up to which the tide comes, and the rapids a
few hundred yards up stream, are interesting objects ; and in the vicinity
are the ruins of historical Kilbarron and the Abbey ol Ballyshannon.
" The little old town where I was born has a voice of its own,
low solemn, persistent, humming through the air day and night,
summer and winter. Whenever I think of that town I seem to hear
the voice. The river which makes it rolls over rocky ledges into
the tide. Before spreads _. great ocean in sunshine and storm ; be
hind stretches a many
islanded lake. On the
south runs a wavy line
of blue mountains, and
on the north, over green,
rocky hills, rise peaks
of a more distant range.
An odd, out-
of-the-way little town
ours, on the extreme wes
tern verge of Europe."
So wrote its poet —
a poet of renown too —
William Allingham,
born here in March,
1824, andto whose mem
ory there now stands
on the old bridge a
Monument on Ballyshannon Bridge. memorial tablet, and if

85

Bundoran Bay. co. Donegal.

the town should live in no other way it will ever live in his charming
verses on "The Emigrants' Adieu to Ballyshanny."
BUNDORAN has now a comfortable and speedy service of trains
from both Dublin (160 miles) and Belfast (130 miles). The big
waves of the Atlantic roll over its sands uninterrupted in their
course, but there are coves and nooks where the bathing is of
the safest, and jealous of its reputation its people have made
doubly certain by providing a capable human safeguard. Until
comparatively recent years the town was like most Irish ones,
consisting of practically only one main street of white and colour
washed buildings ; but latterly, boarding-houses and residences have
begun to rise at right angles along the rocky shore.
To children the place
is especially inviting, r
because in addition to
the joys or the sands,
there is the interest
and instruction to be
obtained in searches
and adventures around
the shallow pools — full
of fauna and plant life
of the ocean — abound
ing on the low plateau
of rocks. A short dis
tance away where the
rocks grow into high
lime-stone cliffs, there
is a curious freak of India*1 R.t.;.,-, di d ._
Ladies bathing Place, Bundoran.

S6

Fairy Bridge, Bundoran.
wave and water action known as the Fairy Bridge — a projecting
arch with a span of over twenty feet under which the seas rush
boisterously into a cavern. One ofthe pleasantest of evening rambles
is to Lough Melvin, about three miles to the south-east ; for then
the air is laden with the fragrance of the honeysuckle which covers
the hedges of the lanes, and the lake and mountains are seen at
their best, perhaps, in the glow of the setting sun.
In the annals of golf, the eighteen-hole course here has figured
prominently ; and in referring to the ample accommodation for visitors
mention should be made of the first-class hotel of the Great Northern
Railway Company of Ireland standing in its own grounds one
hundred acres in extent. As the golf links are in these grounds
guests have free use of them. Finally, coming or going, the eastward

Belleek Pottery and Old Bridge.
87

railway route through Clones and Enniskillen should be chosen, and a
visit, if only brief, paid to both of those towns.
BELLEEK is well enough known by now in the commercial
world by the delicate semi-transparent porcelain produced from local
clays at a factory there which throws its doors open freely to visitors.
The village is on the fringe of Lough Erne, which here discharges its
overflow in a river which falls no less than 147 feet within three
miles, thus providing a series of cascades and rapids which make it
well worth while to walk the four miles to or from Ballyshannon.
ENNISKILLEN, 116 miles from Dublin, 87 from Belfast, and
44 from Bundoran, has been aptly designated " a veritable town amid
the waters." It stands serpentine in shape between the Upper and
Lower Loughs Erne, and on an island formed by the connecting river

fc ... 'ft____»i_ ¦ ___*!-?______.
Caole Rapids, Belleek.
separating into two main channels. If lake scenery and religious and
military memorials of the past are attraction enough it is a centre
worth spending some time in. The town has a military history of
importance, for it claims with Derry the honour of having been
largely instrumental in securing the crown for William the Third.
The local regiments of foot and dragoons, whose mutilated banners
hang in the Town Hall and the Parish Church, afterwards won
renown in the Peninsular War and at Waterloo. The high tower
monument on Fort Hill to General Sir Lowrv Cole, who led the
Inniskilling Dragoons through numerous battles in the Peninsular War,
should be ascended for the extensive view it affords of the town and
the surrounding country ; the winding, encircling and dividing waters
of the Erne ; and the Blue Stack, Cuilgach, and Benbulben mountains
in the distances.

Old Barracks. Enniskillen.
LOUGH ERNE. Along the shores of the Lower Lough Erne
there are at least half a dozen ancient castles with interesting stories
to tell ; and perhaps it is along these shores that the beauty of the lake
is seen to its greatest advantage. One way or the other, however, its
twenty-two miles of length and nine of breadth should be viewed
from the deck of the steamer — all the more so as tourist tickets
facilitate the breaking of the journey at Enniskillen and Castle-caldwell
and the taking of the steamer instead of the train without extra charge.
The fact that it has been styled the "Windermere" and the
"Lomond" of Ireland may convey some idea of its general
character ; yet there is a loveliness peculiar to itself in the great
stretches of woodland clothing the hillsides and the variety and great
number of its verdant islands. But whether you have or you have
not time or inclination to journey the full length, the opportunity
should not be dis
carded of a row to
the holy island of
D e v e n i s h , two
miles from the
town ; for there,
beside the ruins of
an ancient priory
and a still older
abbey , stands what
is regarded as the
most perfect round
tower in Ireland.
The roads around Castle Caldwell, Lough Erne.

Sg

tn the Glen of the Marble Arch, Enniskillen.
are excellent for cycling or driving, and the views through the
woods on the southern shore of the lake leading to Belleek and
Bundoran, will probably tempt the amateur photographer to linger
far longer than he has contemplated.
Either from Enniskillen, also, or from Clones, a full day should be
given to an exploration of the glories of the Upper Lough Erne, which
has some fine parks around it and is island-dotted to a far greater
extent than even the lower lake.
CLONES, three miles from
Enniskillen, and 93 from Dublin, is
a clean little town which climbs
and tops a small hill in a pleasing
manner. An hour or two should
be spent here in strolling through
the main street to the " Diamond "
or market square, where there is
a fine old cross bearing sculptured
representations of Adam and Eve
with the Serpent, Abraham's
offered sacrifice of Isaac, and other
subjects. A little further there is
an ivy-clad round tower, with its
conical cap missing, and one of the
earliest abbeys of Ireland, dating
from the twelfth century. From
Clones through Monaghan to Ar
magh, Portadown and Lisburn, the
way to Belfast is direct enough,
whilst in another direction Clones
connects with Dundalk and so with
Newry and Greenore, and Dublin.

Deuenish Round Tower, Lough Erne.

90

THE WEST.

Connaught and its Charms.

Mention ofthe West of Ireland recalls to most readers the famous
district of Galway known as Connemara — a wild land of lake and
mountain, valley and glen, lonely pass and gorge, with a coast line
bordered by lofty precipices and cut up by gTeat bays and inlets. But
Connemara, marvellous and picturesque as it is, occupies only a part
of one county, and there are four other counties in the province of
Connacht (Connaught) which make claims on the tourist, and
especially on the angler, for the rivers and loughs abound with salmon
and trout. Mayo, with Achill Island adjoining, and also Sligo,
possess scenery not a whit inferior to that of Connemara, and
the east side of Roscommon, the only inland county, is washed by
the Shannon and Lough Ree.
All these counties are served direct from Dublin across the centre
of Ireland bv the lines ofthe Midland Great Western Company from
Broadstone Station, which, widely diverging at Mullingar and
Athlone, touch the Atlantic Ocean at the towns of Galway and
Clifden ; Westport, Mallaranny and Achill ; Ballina, the nearest
Station to Belmullet on Blacksod Bay, and Rillala ; and Sligo.
From the town of Sligo there is a car service to Bundoran, thus
connecting with the Donegal Highlands, and a train service to
Enniskillen. From Galway and its neighbour Athenry at the
southern extremity of the province a railway line to Ennis joins
up Kilkee, Lahinch, and the other coast resorts in the adjoining
county of Clare. The Munster counties of Clare, Limerick, and
part of Tipperary, with the lower reaches of the Shannon, belong
rather to the western than to the southern portion of Ireland, and
are thus included in this section.

The Holywell, Sligo.
9'

Glendalough.

[Phuto w. Lawrence.

Athlone, Loughs Ree and Corrib, Salthill,
Clonmacnois, and the Aran Islands.

The route to Galway by the Midland Great Western line cuts
through the great central plain of Ireland and the Bog of Allen,
but the initial twenty miles from Broadstone Station to Maynooth
and beyond is through pleasant park-like lands. The first stop of
note is at
MULLINGAR, 50 miles from the capital, where the Cavan and
Sligo branches diverge. Mullingar attracts the angler, for in three of
its five lakes the trout have an excellent reputation. The scenery on
Lough Ennell or Belvedere has some nice woodland stretches.
Mullingar is one of the many small towns which have been so greatly
improved during the last two years by the provision of labourers'
dwellings, under Government auspices.
ATHLONE, 28 miles further, stands near the centre of the
country and on the Shannon. About double the size of Mullingar, it
is a thriving town of some 7,000 people. To-day its own claim to
note rests on its position as an important military centre and on its
railway facilities. The line north-west from here proceeds to Mayo
by way of Castlerea and Claremorris to Castlebar, via Manulla
Junction, where it divides into the Achill and Killala sections.
Athlone in the Middle Ages was a fortified and walled town on both
sides of the broad and placid river, and portions of its old walls,
together with the keep of the ancient castle, remain.

92

Athlone.

[Phot.. W. Lawn

It has an honourable place in history, too, for the siege which it
endured in 1691 against the forces of William the Third. Its
interests at the present time are mainly angling ones, for Lough Ree,
one of the expansions of the Shannon, and at the foot of which
Athlone rests, has scenic beauties and affords good sport. Boats
occasionally ply along the lakes between Carrick-on-Shannon, to the
north of Lough Ree and Athlone, thence onward past Clonmacnois
through Lough Derg to Killaloe, above Limerick. Ree is much cut
up with creeks and inlets.
LOUGH REE AND AUBURN. Many evidences of early
Celtic Christianity greet the visitor on a boat trip along the lake
which, by the way, divides Connaught from Leinster. After passing
the verdant Hare Island, the ruins of two castles show on the
Connaught side, and then Incheceraun or "Quaker Island " arrests
attention. On it stand the remains of seven churches. All Saint's

Railway Viaduct, Athlone. [Photo.: »' Lawi-en
93

Island contains a church
and a monaster)', and
its neighbour Inchbonin
possesses a similar
treasure, together with
the remains of Celtic
crosses. On the Lein
ster side of the lake,
about eight miles from
Athlone, Auburn or
Lissoy invites the ad
mirers of Goldsmith.
Although the poet's

Lough Ree, Athlone. [Photo

W Liiwrence.

father resided at Lissoy, considerable doubt exists as to whether this
tiny and scattered hamlet was " The deserted village."
CLONMACNOIS. In the opposite or Banagher direction to
Lough Ree, and 10 miles
by boat down the Shan
non, the impressive ruins
of the great monastery
of Clonmacnois, origin
ally founded in the
sixth century, come into
view. The early Celtic
monastery consisted of a
number of small single
dwellings of the bee-hive
character built around
a chapel, and of these
erections near Athlone

On Lough Ree, Athlone. [Pho

But the re
in 1 21 5 ; two

not a trace is left, or the Danes, and later the Anglo-Normans,
enjoyed an unenviable reputation in destruction.
buildings include a castle erected by John de Grey
round towers, part oi
one being ascribed to
960 ; and the remains of
seven churches, dating
from the tenth to the
fourteenth century. In
addition to these there
are a couple of sculp
tured crosses, one being
13 feet high. The
remains ol a nunnery
built in 1 167 also find
a place in the^ scheme. u , , _ , , „
K ' Hare Island, Lough Ree

94

Fish Market, Galway.

Perhaps the rich carv
ings on the crosses— one
being a procession of
chariots and horsemen
— take the attention ot
the wandering tourist
more than anything else.
One of the Gaelic in
scriptions reads " A
prayer for Colman who
made this cross" — Col
man being abbot from
89910924. Altogether,
the remains of this great school of learning, which was recognised by
Charlemagne, well repay a visit.
GALWAY. Except the town of Ballinasloe, noted for its great
horse fair, nothing of particular interest presents itself along the line
from Athlone onward until Galway Bay comes into sight. After
passing Athenry, where there is a junction at right angles with the
Great Southern and Western system coming from Limerick and Ennis
north to Sligo, the route crosses Lough Atalia, an ocean creek, and
ends at the station. Even if it had' not been mentioned by Ptolemy,
Galway with its narrow and winding streets looks ancient, but
although once a flourishing Anglo-Norman colony it achieved more
distinction later on by its trade with France and Spain. Indeed, the
Spanish influence is still prevalent in the architecture of the town.
Two memorials of the Lynch family, who furnished 84 mayors to the
town between the fifteenth and the eighteenth centuries, are always
shown to visitors. One is the Lynch "stone," in memory of the

Salmon Weir, Galwag.
95

fPlioto. ¦ W. Lawrence

"stern and unbending justice of the chiet magistrate of this city,
James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected mayor A.D. i493. who condemned
and executed his own guilty son on this spot." The other is Lynch s
" mansion"— now a shop-in the principal street, a fine example of
a merchant prince's house, with square-headed doorways and windows,
and richly-ornamented medallions. Modern Galway has had ambitions
in the way of an 'Atlantic port, but they have not been realised, and
to-day the population is under 20,000. It seems to be haunted by
wistful memories of the past. A fact worth mentioning is that salmon
can be caught within the confines of the town.
SALTHILL. Either by tramcar through the town, or better
still, by a walk past the quay and the heterogeneous collection of huts

Promenade, Salthill, near Galway.

[Photo. : W. L_w_e_-i

and cottages known as the Claddagh, or the fishermen's quarter, the
modern holiday resort of Salthill is reached. Salthill has a strong
sea wall of over a mile in length with a broad concreted esplanade.
Bathing places have been arranged among the huge rocks opposite a
favourite resting place known as " Lazy Corner," and further on the
land rises to great grassy cliffs, from which there are extensive views
of the Clare hills opposite.

96

Lough Corrib. [Photo. W. Lawrence.
LOUGH CORRIB. Galway has a splendid holiday attraction
in the shape of Lough Corrib, which stretches for many miles into
Connemara. Its area includes 44,000 acres, and with its tributaries
it is over 300 miles in extent. The lake yields good results in salmon
and trout. A steamer plys between Galway and the town of Cong —
renowned for its venerable abbey — at the north end of the lake,
passing several demesnes on the way, and in the wider upper section
affording panoramic views of the many peaks of the Connaught
highlands. Cong stands on the isthmus joining Loughs Corrib and
Mask and is 20 miles from Leenane. Tradition asserts that the lake
contains an island for every day of the year, and ruins of primitive
churches find a place on some of them. Part of Clare Galway Abbey
may be seen from the steamer.

On Lough Corrib.
97

[Photo. W. Lawrenca

1

On Aran Island.

[Photo. : W. Lawrence.

THE ARAN ISLANDS. Another trip from Galway worth
taking in fine weather is by steamer to the three Atlantic islands,
28 miles distant. Aran, like other remote places, calls up visions of
the great and glorious time when Ireland was known throughout the
world as the island of saints and scholars. The little stone churches,
with their curious lintels and inclined jambs, which meet the visitor
on the barren limestone rocks of the island, go back to the year 470.
The excursion also, in addition to its ocean interest, affords an op
portunity of seeing the curious curraghs or canoes which meet the
steamer when it stops at the middle island. Except that — as at
Kilkee— they are now covered with tarred canvas, instead of skins,
they are just as they were in the early days of St. Columba. Besides
the ancient boat, Aran retains, in the pampooty, a remnant of the
old Irish dress. This boot is made of undressed leather, with the
hair left on inside, and laced over the foot by pieces of cord.
The hamlet of Rilronan, on Inishmore, has a small hotel, and
this island, with an area of about twelve square miles, possesses
enough antiquities to occupy the attention of an archaeologist for some
time, several of the many Pagan forts and strongholds dating back
2,000 years.

Qo/memara

ph .to. : w. La-

Recess, Clifden, Leenane, Westport,
Mallaranny, Dugort and Sligo.

From a geographical standpoint Connemara is a peninsula, but
the great lakes of Corrib and Mask which border its east side make it
almost into an island like Achill, its northern neighbour. So deeply
indented are its coasts that only a small part is away from the sea,
and as from one peak alone nearly 300 lakes are said to be visible,
the tourist enjoys unlimited opportunities for contrasting salt water
and fresh water views. The mountains rival the lakes in extent.
They are of stern and sombre hue, sterile and stony on close
acquaintance, and with a gloomy grandeur and majesty which awe
the beholder. Connemara is a wild and lonely land. Its few centres
of population are villages and hotels — built for the accommodation of
anglers — and except along the tourist routes and the angling centres
these are scarce enough.
But the country has the great charm of absolute novelty, and to
nature-lovers in particular it is a wonderful land. As Miss Jane
Barlow, the novelist of the land, points out : —
" Its wild west winds sweep into its vast vaulted skies
larger clouds and more fantastically piled up than are else
where adrift. They fling down portentously dark shadows
over already scowling boglands ; they let fall on clear-brimmed
lake many a slanted gleam of silver fire ; the sunsets kindled

99

amongst them are of an unsurpassable splendour . . This
it is that so often transfigures the lonely Connemara plains and
mountains. In the serenest weather they have a high beauty
albeit austere, and, as it were, half-reluctantly responsive to
untempered sunshine. When the riftless grey curtains of the
rain are gathered closely all round them there is a sublime
simplicity in their dreariness that fascinates and soothes. But
only beneath changeful skies do the utmost charms appear.
Then many a little glen may be seen as full of iridescent mist
as if a whole rainbow had melted there, and through it the
water of some pool or tarn will tumble like a fallen star
drowning in dew . . . Everywhere spread abroad in
unstinted measure, by the acre, or even the mile, lie the
pure and vivid hues that are prized when doled out thriftily
in precious stones and flower petals, and fragile wings ; and
everywhere their brightness is enhanced by quickly-recurring
gleams and glooms, as the clouds pass floating double."
Irish scenery is beautiful, but the most desolate spots are made
beautiful by these miracles of light and shade, by the purple and
blue of the mountains, the gold of the gorse blossom, the ruddy glow
of the heather, the varied shades of green on the slope, and the
diamond sparkle of the streams.
The easiest way to see a good part of Connemara is to travel by
the only railway route, the 49 miles between Galway and Clifden, and
to spend a few days either at the Midland Great Western Hotel at the
inland Recess on the way, or at the Clifden terminus at the Railway
Hotel near the ocean, or, better still, at both places. After Clifden
the cycle or the summer car must be requisitioned. The main route
then is north — out of Galway into Mayo at the end — to the next
railway station at Westport, which has a direct and independent
service to Broadstone Station, Dublin, or the journey can be continued
to Achill Island, by rail 26 miles.
From Clifden to Westport means two car journeys. The first one
occupies four hours, a halt for the night — or for a few days if thought
advisable— being made at the Leenane Hotel. The second stage, to
Westport, means a journey of six hours. Given fine weather these
are delightful trips, embracing many of the scenic marvels, both by
land and sea, in the district. The continuation, by rail around Clear
Bay to Achill, is equally delightful.
OUGHTERARD. Some 17 miles out from Galway, and on a
railway journey which has the reedy shores of Lough Corrib and its
allies as neighbours for most of the way, Oughterard is the first
station of note. It constitutes a good centre for boating and angling
on the lough, and it is within easy distance of Cong Abbey. Some
pretty woodland scenery diversifies the Owenriff river, and the free
fishing in the district acts as a tempting bait to anglers.

RECESS. For the next 20 miles some lake or another, or
some brawling trout stream, keeps in touch with the rail. On the
right for some four miles the Corcogemore hills, which have an
average height of 2,000 feet, and are huge unrelieved masses of rock,
shut out the prospect, and then they give way to the more undulating
and scattered series of peaks known as the " Twelve Pins" or Bens,
perhaps the most familiar object in the Connemara landscape. One or
other of these "Bens" offers abundant material for excursions from
Recess, Ballvnahinch, and other stations. " Recess " to the tourist
means the Railway Hotel, but there is a village a few miles away.
The tourist and angling Recess is a wooded oasis at the head of Lough
Glendalough, and the railway company has rented several lakes in the
district, noted for salmon and trout, for the use of its patrons. The

Glen Inagh, Recess.

[Photo. ¦ W Lawrence.

mountain summits, passes, lakes and rivers about Recess and the
coast at Cashel, easily exhaust a week ; the angler is glad to stay a
month, if he has the chance.
ROUNDSTONE. After leaving Recess and Bencorr, with its
great corries and crags, the shapely peak of Benlettery comes in view,
and at its feet are the lake and woodlands and the streams of Bally-
nahinch. There is a good road to Roundstone, a charming little
place with four hotels, and whose situation on a big bay is the
perfection of wholesomeness. From Urrisberg, the big hill at the
back of the town, you may see as glorious a panorama as ever was
opened out to call forth man's adoration, and when tired of that you
can stoop and gather many rare and lovely flowers not to be found
in one's own country.

CLIFDEN dates only from 1S15, and is quite a modern town
of a few thousand people. It stands high over an inlet which
opens "into an extensive bay, and near its principal street the
Owenglin river falls in a picturesque cascade. Clifden boasts of
several hotels, it offers a good stretch of coast for exploration,
anglers have a variety of fishing at their disposal, and Mr. Marconi
has added to the interest of the place by a wireless telegraphy
station. As throughout Connemara hedgerows of fuchsias border
many a path. At Clifden the rail is left behind, and the afternoon
car in the direction of Westport makes the first stop after an hour
and a half's uphill journey at
LETTERFRACK, nine miles away, and also a modern place
but of Quaker origin. Visitors who like quietness find it here at

Clifden.

Barnaderg Bay and fiallynakill Harbour, and anglers who like free
fishing come here for brown trout. A detour to Renvyle Hotel, five
miles by road, opens up some choice coast scenery. After leaving
Lelterfrack the route is along the Pass of Rylemore, and shortly
afterwards Kylemore Castle, built by the late Mr. Mitchell Henry, of
Manchester, and now owned by the Duke of Manchester, appears
in the midst of dark woods and by the side of the lake. The road
then gradually rises for some miles showing the " Twelve Bens" from
exactly an opposite point of view to the Recess one, and at the top of
the hill before Leenane the tourist is rewarded by a superb panorama
of the district, including the spacious and sinuous fiord known as the
Great Rillary and its imposing neighbour Mweelrea, nearly 2700 feet
high.

Leenane. [Photo.: W. I^wrence.
LEENANE is a hotel and hamlet in a district which offers scores
ot enticing walks and excursions along the coast or on the hills. The
lovers of mountain climbing can reap an abundant and varied
harvest at Leenane, and the boating is unusually good. To West-
port the distance is eighteen miles, and for the first six the road
skirts the bay and then marches on a lofty plain by the side of
the hills— passing out of Galwav into Mayo — until a glimpse of
Clew Bay and its islets shows the position of
WESTPORT, a town of about 4,000 people situated in a hollow
surrounded by woods, and with Lord Sligo's Park at the end of its

Clew Bay, Westport. [Photo.: W. Lawr.
103

tn Demesne, Westport.

Photo. . W. Lawrene

quay. The " lion" of the place is Croagh Patrick, 2,500 feet high,
a great resort of pilgrims on St. Patrick's Day. By rail the distance
from Dublin to Westport is 161 miles, and around Clew Bay by way
of Newport, eighteen miles further by rail takes the traveller to
MALLARANNY, on an isthmus uniting the Curraun peninsula
with the mainland. Perhaps the most prominent feature in the
landscape is the Midland Great Western Company's hotel on an
eminence clothed with woods, and backed by a lofty range of
hills. To the ordinary tourist as distinguished from the scientist
or antiquary, Mallaranny is not only pleasant in its own surroundings,
but constitutes the most comfortable headquarters for seeing Achill,
eight miles away by rail to Achill Sound Station, or 144 by car
along the coast road. Either way is delightful for its sea pictures
and for the view of Slievemore, the dominant peak ofthe island. A

Achill Sound, Co. Mayo. (Photo w, Lawrence
104

Ballynahlnch. [Photo.: W Lawrence.

nine-hole golf course
is connected with
the railway hotel.
ACHILL AND
DUGORT. Achill
is the largest island
on the Irish coast,
with an area of some
55 square miles and
a population of
about 5, coo. Its
cliff scenery is
magnificent. The
Sound or waterway
between the main
land and the island,
is a. narrow one,
crossed by a bridge.
and afong here tourist cars run in the season from the railway
station — which has an hotel as neighbour — to Dugort, nine miles
away. The drive affords an instructive glimpse of the inland
parts of this brown and almost treeless island, and Dugort itselt
makes the best centre for seeing the wonders of the coast. The
"Settlement," as it is called, to distinguish it from the older
Dugort village, owes its inception to a mission scheme which was
inaugurated in 1S31. To-day it is a quiet holiday resort with
three hotels, and its position at the foot of Slievemore (over
2,200 feet high), and with magnificent stretches of sand in front,
has an alluring effect on most visitors.
Naturally, there are mountain climbs at Dugort, and other
favourite trips include visits to the Cathedral Rocks, Keel Strand,
the Menaun Cliffs, and Keem Bay. Some of the cliffs are 800 feet
high, and their sea-
worn caverns and
natural masonry sug
gest variations of
Gothic architecture.
The tourist with
leisure could find a
new excursion every
day for a fortnight
from Dugort, one of
the most bracing
places along the
west coast, and one
specially suitable for Minnaun Cliffs, Achill [Photo. : w. u

105

Seal Caves, Achill Island. [Photo.: W.Lawrence.

children. Dooaghand
Slievemore village
are typical examples
of the ordinary Achill
centres of population.
BALLINA AND
KILLALA. It is
necessary to return
to Mallaranny and
Westport, and thence
onwards to the Castle
bar junction, if more
of the Mayo lake
land is required to be seen by the help of the railway. For
after the section west just mentioned, there is only just as short
a one north to Ballina and Killala. The great bulk of the
county including the north and west coast, is untouched by the
railway. Ballina is a quiet little town on the river Moy, and
serves as the centre for an extensive angling district, which
includes Loughs Conn and Cullin, connected by Pontoon, a
bridged channel. From Ballina to Bellmullet on the west coast
a car service covers the forty miles. Killala at the head of a great
bay, is a much smaller place than Ballina, from which it is distant
eight miles, and coming between the two towns are Moyne Abbey
and Rosserk Abbey. Ballina connects with Sligo town by a car
which occupies five hours in making the journey, the route being
across the northern part of the country. All this district bears a
resemblance to Connemara.

Cloisters, Sligo Abbey.
106

[Pint..: W. I,m, .„¦,..

Lough Gill from Cairn Hill. Sligo.
SLIGO. After Galway, Sligo takes rank as the important town
on the west coast, having a population of 10,000, and not only being
a good business centre, but possessing picturesque interests in having
a circle of hills around it. By way of Mullingar, Carrick on Shannon,
and Bovle, it can be reached direct from Dublin in five hours, the
distance being 134 miles. Its most interesting monument is Sligo
Abbey, belonging mainly to the fifteenth century, and its outer scenic
beauties comprise Lough Gill, two miles away, and Glencar, another
lough with cascades about ten miles distant. The ascent of Knock -
narea, a hill between Sligo Bay and Ballysodare Bay, affords splendid
views by land and sea. Sligo's holiday resort is Rosses Point, a
pleasant fishing and residential village, five miles away, which pos
sesses the additional recommendation of a nine-hole golf course.
Sligo marks the end of the Connemara tour, but the journey north
can be continued by car to Bundoran or by rail direct to Enniskillen.

Lough Gill, Sligo.
107

ft THE SB

¦A

NON

Shannon Rapids, Castle Connell.
Castleconnell, Killaloe,
Adare, Kilrush, Kilkee, and Cashel.

By reason of its railway and steamer facilities the city of Limerick
not only acts as a good centre for visiting Tralee and North Kerr)',
the romantic coast towns of county Clare, and the historical scenes
associated with Tipperary, but its position astride on the Shannon
between the estuary and the upper reaches, and near to Lough Derg,
enables the tourist to see for about ioo miles the varied beauties of
this great waterway. Some of the best trout, salmon, and coarse
fishing in Ireland rewards the angler. Kilkee in Clare is one of the
six leading seaside resorts in Ireland. The morning express from
Ringsbridge Station, Dublin, takes three hours and a quarter to run
the 129 miles to Limerick, whilst the 61 miles from Cork and the
77 miles from Waterford occupy between two and a quarter and two
and a half hours. Kilkee is seven hours direct from Dublin, and
about four hours from Limerick, by way of Ennis, where the West
Clare Narrow Gauge Railway connects with the Great Southern
Railway. LIMERICK. Some battered fragments of the city walls, the
statue ofthe heroic Sarsfield, the " Treaty Stone" on a pedestal near
Thomond Bridge, and King John's formidable Castle, which now
houses a regiment and an arsenal, are all that remain visible of the
chequered history of the " City of the Violated Treaty." The
prosperous town of to-day, with its 46,000 people, is best known in
the annals for its sieges. Ireton captured it in 1651 after a six
investment ; William the Third was beaten off by Sarsfield,

months

10S

Earl of Lu
can, in 1690 ;
the next year
Ginckel star
ved Sarsfield
and his forces
into an hon
ourable sub
mission and
granted the
religious pri
vileges of the
people by a
treaty which
the English
P arliament
r ef u sed to
ratify.
Its position on both banks of the broad Shannon, its long quays,
its many fine bridges, and its People's Park give the city a pleasant
appearance, heightened by a verdant plain on all sides and backed by
the distant hills of Clare and Killaloe. The Sarsfield Bridge, which
took eleven years to build, is a magnificent structure, not far from
George Street, the principal shopping centre, and the more important
buildings include two cathedrals, the Protestant one of St. Mary
showing the Norman mouldings of its erection in 11S0.
CASTLECONNELL. From Limerick northwards towards
Lough Derg the railway line a couple of stations out brings the angler
to Castleconnell, famous for its trout and salmon fishing. There are a

Treaty Stone, Limerick.

Thomond Bridge an1 Castle, Limerick.
109

score of places about here
where the trout fishing is free,
and lovers of the picturesque
will be well rewarded with a
sight of the Doonass Rapids
embowered in woodland sce
nery, a part of the river re
sembling the Rhine.
KILLALOE AND
LOUGH DERG. Three
miles by road from Castle
connell or by rail from Bird
hill Junction, Killaloe, sit
uated at the south end of
Lough Derg, appears, and the
view of the river from the thirteen arched bridge long lingers in the
memory. Killaloe possesses many objects of antiquarian and eccle
siastical interest, including the sixth century cell of St. Lua and a
Protestant Cathedral with a beautiful east window, but its repute
to-day is that of an angling centre and a centre for excursions on
Lough Derg and its creeks, a charming sheet of water eight miles
wide formed by the expansion of the Shannon.
ADARE AND ASKEATON. In the opposite or the coast
direction from Limerick, Adare, eleven miles away on a branch line
ending at the spacious harbour of Foynes, receives many visitors not
only to inspect the mansion and grounds of Lord Dunraven, but to
examine the ruins of three abbeys and of Desmond Castle. Askeaton
comes nearer to Foynes, and its cascades and the cloisters of its old

Salmon Fishing at Castleconnel.

The Castle, C~stleeonnel.

Franciscan monastery will serve to idle away a few hours. Or if the
tourist at Limerick wants a day's excursion the time could not be
better spent than at Ballybunion, which, despite its hideous name, has
many natural seaside attractions. It is reached from Listowel by the
oddest railway in the British Isles -a single or mono rail one.
During the season boats of the Shannon Development Steamer
Company run from Killaloe to Banagher, a distance of 31 miles,
passing many islets and well-wooded demesnes and having the
heather-covered Galway mountains as companions on one side for
part of the way. From Banagher to Athlone and Lough Ree, the
northward extension, there used to be a regular steamboat service,
but now there are only chartered sailings. Both Banagher and
Athlone are within easy reach bv rail of Dublin.

General View, Killaloe.

DROMINEER. A picturesque place on the edge of Lough
Derg and six miles by road from Nenagh Station, or accessible by the
Shannon Steamers, is also a noted fishing centre and possesses a first
class angler's hotel, namely, the Lough Derg Hotel.
DOWN THE SHANNON TO KILRUSH. In the direction
,, of the Atlantic and county Clare an enjoyable excursion from Limerick
is the steamer trip to Kilrush, 45 miles distant, which occupies a
few hours. The river broadens gradually into a vast lake, one big
creek or bay running north up to Ennis, then it contracts a little
between sandbanks towards Foynes, receiving several tributaries on
the way, and at Kilrush it expands into an estuary some 12 miles
wide indented with bays. The objects of interest on the voyage

River Shannon at World's End, Castle Connell.
include the ruins of Mungret Abbey, Bunratty Castle, the Beeves
lighthouse, Lord Monteagle's demesne, Glin Castle, the village and
lighthouse of Tarbert opposite Kilrush, and the islands of Carrigafoyle
and Scattery — the remains of the "Seven Churches" on Scattery
possessing more than local interest. Kilrush is also one of the
termini of the West Clare Railway, another coast branch ending at
KILKEE, nine miles away. Kilkee ranks as the most popular
holiday resort on the west coast of Ireland, and in a general survey
of the island it can compare favourably with Kingstown, Bray,

Killaloe Cathedral.

Warrenpoint, Portrush, Newcastle, Tramore and Bundoran. Its
position at the head of a small semi-circular bay whose inner course
is marked by beautiful stretches of sand renders it particularly
suitable for children. Towards the ocean the sand gives way to huge
rocks and immense rocky shelves which stretch for half a mile across
the mouth, and at low tide constitute wonderful storehouses ot
marine curiosities. Inland, the town gradually rises from the low
beach on each side, and the houses are soon left behind for green
cliffs which mount higher as they approach the sea. On one of these
grassy slopes o. golf course has been laid, and beyond them a walk
along the undercliffs shows some wonderful and gigantic rocks.
The cliff scenery and sea caves about here are of the most
marvellous character, and coupled with the Moher Cliffs, are
unequalled along the coast — and perhaps in the United Kingdom —

Killaloe and River Shannon.
for grandeur. Some of the natural bridges, such as the one at
Carrigaholt, are alone worth a visit to Kilkee. The modern town
along the bay is growing at a rapid rate, some hundreds of bungalows
having been built in recent years.
LAHINCH AND LISDOONVARNA. The West Clare
Railway begins at the Station of the Great Southern and Western
Railway at Ennis, 25 miles from Limerick. As a narrow gauge it
makes a wide sweep northwards, and then after Ennistymon (the
station for the inland spa of Lisdoonvarna) turns south and proceeds
along the Clare coast, passing Lahinch, Miltown Malbay, and
Spanish Point, before it diverges to Kilkee and Kilrush. Lahinch is

"3

some 22 miles from Ennis and 25 from Kilkee, and its reputation
rests mainly on its golf links, and on the Cliffs of Moher, which rise
abruptly from the Atlantic to a height of nearly 700 feet and extend
in a perpendicular rocky wall for about four miles.
Miltown Malbay and Spanish Point (so called from the Armada
wrecks) share a golf links and are smaller and quieter than Lahinch,
whilst Lisdoonvarna is famous for its sulphur and iron waters and its
exhilarating air. West Clare undoubtedly ranks as one of the most
alluring holiday grounds in the country, and one of its principal
charms is that it is utterly unlike anything in England.
CASHEL AND THURLES. On a Tipperary section of the
Great Southern and Western Railway lines from Limerick a small
branch from Goold's Cross ends at Cashel "of the Kngs " which
contains in its district an extraordinary collection of architectural
ruins. The group of buildings crowns a massive rock, and includes a
round tower supposed to date from the end of the eighth century ;
Cormais Chapel, of sandstone, erected about the year 900 ; and the
Cathedral, which was originally built about 1 135 and burnt in 1495.
Much of the nave, chancel and towers remains. In the burial ground
outside is the famous Cross of Cashel, with the sculptured effig)' of
St. Patrick, and fragments of an ancient abbey stand at the foot of
the rock.
Thurles, the next station to Goold's Cross, has a near neighbour in
Holycross Abbey, founded in the year 1182. Holycross is regarded
as one of the most beautiful examples of monastic architecture, and
the ruins comprise the Church and several small chapels, cloisters,
the Abbot's house, and tombs. Tipperary contains some of the
richest pastures in the country, known the world over as the
" Golden Vale."

Blackwater Bridge, near Kenmare.
From Dublin the lines of two railway companies open up the
most interesting places in the south of Ireland — and their name is
legion — to the tourist. The Dublin and South-Eastern route
generally clings to the sea board until it leaves Wicklow, but in its
after detour across the south-eastern corner of the country it touches
the ports of Wexford, New Ross, and Waterford. This picturesque
route serves part of two southern counties, but at the Waterford
terminus through communication exists with the Great Southern and
Western Railway for Cork and Killarney.
With the exception of the main portion of Wexford, the Great
Southern roads running through the inland counties of Carlow,
Kildare, Queen's County, Kilkenny and Tipperary traverse all the
south and south west above Cork. Below Cork three small local
lines from that city and two light railways provide travelling facilities.
The Great Southern lines cover the district like a net work. Not
only is there a direct line from Kingsbridge Station, Dublin, to each
of such centres as Waterford, Cork, Killarney and Limerick, with
connections in all directions, but there is also a direct line between
Waterford and Cork, and another between Youghal and Cork.
COUNTY WEXFORD.

Ferns and New Ross.

The scenery of County Wexford has little of that boldness and
grandeur associated with its neighbour of Wicklow, for the mountains
have sunk into a background of hills, but it possesses a dainty
pleasantness and a pastoral beauty which make ample amends. Like
Wicklow, it abounds with many memorials of the past in the shape of
ruined monasteries, churches and castles. The early Christians, the
Danes, the Anglo-Normans, and the Cromwellians have all left
"5

distinct traces of their presence, whilst in comparatively recent years,
in 179S, the county was the principal scene of occurrences in
connection with an insurrection. But perhaps the most interesting
historical associations of the county and of the adjoining one of
Waterford, centre about Strongbow, the Farl of Pembroke, who came
over here with an army to help Dermod, King of Leinster, in the
reign of Henry the Second, and who afterwards married Dermod's
daughter. The consequences of the marriage are writ large in the
history of both counties. Part of the Norman castles built in the
twelfth century still exist.
COURTOWN and FERNS.— After leaving the county of
Wicklow, the Dublin and South-Eastern line comes to Gorey, the
nearest station to the pretty little seaside resort of Courtown, three
miles away. The next place of note on the railway is Ferns,
distinguished for its historical ruins, which include a twelfth
century castle and monastery. Enniscorthy, eight miles distant,
and a thriving town on a hill above the River Slane)', has also a
Norman castle which, restored and fashioned into a dwelling, is
open for inspection. At Macmine Junction the line divides, one
part going west to Waterford and the other south to the town of
WEXFORD. — The town straggles along in narrow and winding
streets by the side of s hill overlooking the Slane)' Estuary and
Wexford Haven, and to-day its architectural pretensions are ot
the ecclesiastical kind. It is of the old-fashioned type as its quaint
houses testify, and it owns a wonderful history. The ancient
geographer Ptolemy knew of it, the Danes held it till Strongbow
came, and Cromwell massacred the garrison. The old Bull Ring,
circled by houses, can still be seen. Five towers yet remain of the
ancient walls, and with them part of St. Sepulchre's Abbey,
founded by the Danes. No fewer than five Norman castles may
be viewed within easy distance of the seaport, and when satiated
with ruins, Johnstown Castle, the stately residence of the Fitzgeralds,
offers a pleasant change. A short railway line connects Wexford
with the beautiful strand of Rosslare, eight miles away.
NEW ROSS.— From Macmine Junction on the Waterford route
it is ten miles to Palace East, where a junction with the Great
Southern and Western Company's system takes place, and another
eight miles to New Ross, which bears a history somewhat on the
broad lines of Wexford's, except that it has not the same reason to
execrate the memory of Cromwell. The town rises up from the
river Barrow in terrace fashion, and though many miles from the
sea it is a prosperous little port. Golf leavens a district rich in
mementoes of the sixth and twelth centuries. Railway and river
run in company for some distance from New Ross, passing the
remains of Dunbrody Abbey and Tintern Abbey — a counterpart of
the famous Welsh shrine - and then the line dipping into the valley
of the Suir soon reaches Waterford.

[16

WATERFORD DISTRICT.
Tramore, Dunmore, Carrick, Clonmel,
Kilkenny, and the Blackwater.
The rivers Blackwater and Suir running placidly to the sea
through a fertile and smiling land, backed by the Galtee and
Knockmealdoun Mountains, give the tone to the scenery of
Waterford. Some of the most beautiful landscapes in Ireland meet
the eye along the courses of these rivers, which are navigable for a.
considerable distance by steamers. The lines of the Dublin and
South-Eastern Railway Company (Westland Row), and of the Great
Southern and Western Company (Kingsbridge) radiating from Dublin
in different directions meet at the town of
WATERFORD. The prosperous port and leisurely town of to-day
with some 27,000 people bears little outward sign of its stormy early
days and of its many battles and sieges. The massive Reginald's
Tower, said to have been built by a Dane in 1003, rounds off one
corner of its quay ; its cathedral stands on the site of a Danish
one ; traces remain of the old walls ; the shell of the French
Church originally bestowed on the Huguenots has been carefully
restored. Charles Kean, the actor, was born here, as was also
Mrs. Jordan, and part of the old theatre in which he played is in
existence, although Waterford possesses a more modern playhouse.
The town claims Lord Roberts as one of its kin. But Waterford's
most cherished memory, recalled by the proud title of " nrbs
inlacta" is that it was the one city in Ireland that successfully defied
Cromwell, and beat off his forces after a year's siege.
Modern Waterford has two sections, joined by a quaint old
wooden bridge about 250 yards long, over the Suir. The railway
station and low hills interspersed with villas occupy one side ; the
town proper rising gradually from the quay side takes the other.
Waterford is not only one of the best types of Irish towns— much
artistic skill has been expended on the arrangement of its park and
on its private gardens — but it also serves as a good centre not only for
the beauty spots of its own county, but also for those of Kilkenny
and Tipperary. Curraghmore, the delightful residence of the
Beresford family, is 12 miles distant.
TRAMORE AND DUNMORE. Waterford possesses two
excellent seaside resorts, and Duncannon, reached by steamer along
the river, has also claims to regard. Werei Tramore in England it
would be one of the most popular watering-places in the kingdom.
It stands by one edge of a magnificent bay, several miles in width
and extent, bounded by lofty cliffs, and its strand boasts a length of
three miles. Along the wind-swept heights, the air is of the most
bracing and invigorating character, and the walk by the harbour to
the Metal Man, a huge iron figure on the sea borders, is one of the
most delightful imaginable. Tramore's sea caves, bathing places,
H7

golf links, tennis courts, all have their special charms. The little
town is seven miles from Waterford by railway, and a round
tower— a remnant of the city walls -marks the station.
From Tramore to Dunmore the hardy pedestrian gets the choice
of two routes, and Dunmore itself is eleven miles by car from
Waterford. Some time in the last century it was a station for the
mail packets between England and the South of Ireland, and its pier
cost Aoo,ooo. Now ;t depends on its fishing and yachting
attractions, its bold cliffs, and the tonic properties of its air.
CARRICK-ON-SUIR. Proceeding a little further afield from
Waterford, and patronising one of the Great Southern and Western
branches, which passes Fiddown —the station for the Bessborough
demesne and the tasteful village of Piltown — the ancient walled
town of Carrick and its stately castle repay half a day's excursion.
The claim has been made that Carrick Castle was the birth-place of
Anne Boleyn. However that may be, there is no divergence of
opinion respecting the winsome charm of its situation on the edge of
"The Golden Vale," and it contains an admirable example of a
glacier-formed lake.
INISTIOGE AND PARPOINT ABBEY. The branch line
which runs north to Kilkenny has a station at Thomastown, 20 miles
from Waterford, and close by it is the historic pile of Parpoint
(founded 1180) which covers three acres of ground, and still presents
attractive indications of its former magnificence. The great square
tower is in good preservation. Five miles away along a woodland
road running parallel to the river Nore is the hamlet of Inistioge,
and near it stands Woodstock, the home ofthe Tighe family, situated
in one of the most enchanting scenes in the south of Ireland, the
combination of river, grove and hill being perfect.
CLONMEL, the Count)' Town of Tipperary, should be popular
with all classes of holiday makers. It is situated on the banks ofthe
bright, -ilverv, river Suir, which here winds along the foot ofthe
Coineraghs, Knockmealdhoun, and Galtees with lordly Slieve-na-man
as a gigantic sentinel in the north east. One of the oldest towns in
Ireland, it and ihe district are rich in historic relics of interest to the
antiquarian, and the lover of scenic beauty will find everywhere most
delightful spots within easy walking or driving distance. Golfing,
boating, and fishing facilities are of the best. Kirs t week in Augu.t
an important Hor_e show is held. There are live Race Meetings in
the year. The town is well served by Rail.
KILKENNY is an hour by rail from Waterford, and possesses
many historical, archaeological and picturesque interests. Its Parlia
ment of 1367 made it a capital offence for an Englishman to marry
an Irish woman. The cruciform church in the early English style
known as the Cathedral of St. Canice contains a. rich collection of
monuments, and a neighbouring round tower sets off the venerable
fane. Kilkenny Castle, the residence of the Marquis of Ormonde, con
sists of a combination of a modern with an ancient structure, and one of
the best collections of pictures in Ireland finds a place in its galleries
Black Abbey and the Franciscan Triory also reward inspection.
11S

ALONG THE BLACKWATER. Perhaps the most pictur
esque excursion from Waterford consists of the trip by steamer from
Cappoquin down the Blackwater River to Voughal. Cappoquin is
on the line to Cork, a. station past Dungarvan, and Cappoquin itself
exerts other allurements, for it is not only a beautiful valley hamlet
nestling at the foot of the Knockmealdoun Mountains, but almost
next door, Lismore Castle, one of the seats of the Duke of Devonshire,
arrests attention, and quite as near Mount Melleray, a modern
Trappist monastery, welcomes inspection from visitors of every creed.
The Blackwater rises on the borders of Cork and Kerr)', and it
traverses over a hundred miles to the sea at Voughal, passing
Mallow and Fermoy. The two hours' voyage by steamer shows the
river at its best. At places it is over a quarter of a mile in width,
and it has depth enough to accommodate vessels of considerable size.
Some characteristics of the Rhine, such as craggy heights and banks
crowned with woodland, give it a resemblance to that river in minia
ture, and its winding course assists the likeness. But for wealth of
foliage, diversity of panorama, and the ever-changing views of the
great hills above Cappoquin the Blackwater need fear no rival. Its
ruins are few and unimportant, and occasionally a mansion on the
border of a great crag sets off a stretch of the course, but the beauty
of the Blackwater is the beauty entirely of natural romantic scenery,
interspersed with pastoral landscapes when the steep rocky sides sink
down to rush-covered banks, whilst the strand at the journey's end at
Voughal shews pleasures of another sort. But of these more in the
Cork section.

Irish Jaunting Car, Carlingford.
119

UNTY CORK

Blarney Castle.

Queenstown, Courtmacsherry, Blarney,
and Youghal.

Cork is not only the largest and most important of the southern
counties, but it enjoys much scenic distinction owing to the deeply-
indented character of its coast. Here is hidden Courtmacsherry,
the gem of the south. From Youghal to Bantry Ba)' a succession
of fine natural harbours and prominent headlands — of which Kinsale
is a notable example — presents itself, and approaching the Kerry
borders numerous hills and dark mountains throw into relief the
verdant and luxuriant nature of the valley and pasture lands. The
Cork and Bandon Railway opens up some of the loveliest scenery.
In addition to its own attractions, Cork, or rather its county
town, serves as the starting-point for the three routes to Killarney : —
I. Rail to Bantry by the Cork and Bandon line,
steamer or coach to Glengariff, coach to Kenmare and rail
to Killarney or coach all the way to Killarney.
2. Rail to Macroom by the Cork and Macroom line,
coach to Glengariff, and the remainder like number one.
3. Rail all the way to Killarney, via Mallow, by the
Great Southern and Western Line.
In each case the bulk of the journey is through Cork County,
for Killarney is not far from the boundary line. The first two
disclose the magnificent scenery of the country at a leisurely progress ;
the third is quicker, cheaper, and tamer.

CORK-
The capital of
Munster, and
with a pop
ulation of
76,000 the
third largest
town in Ire
land, Cork
enjoys a pleas
ant situation
on the River
Lee, much of
the city having
been built on
an island in
mid-stream .
Six bridges
serve as con
necting points.
From the Lee
valley which
makes gTeat
curves and
twists as the shallow river ff

!**"*«!tjsSM.-;.l

t £ 1-f

St. Finn Barr's Cathedral.

Blackrock Castle.
ws between wide banks down to
Queenstown, gentle hills rise
in terraces with villas and
gardens. Cork is fortunate
in its lofty suburbs, which
command extensive views of
the Lee and the undulating
country beyond, and an
excellent system of electric
tramways renders them easily
accessible. Parts of the city
proper, however, are so
steep that they require long
flights of stone steps to reach
the top in anything like
direct fashion. The Cork
of to-day is a modern city
with the usual congested
districts. Practically nothing
in the way ot buildings
remain to show its origin
as a town which arose
around a monastery founded

121

;,

^-k=5!,!^e Ja.il ¦-?».*55_»l
If 111 arTir-^** W'fB- ¦:,' S' :**?ZSS

St. Colman's Cathedral.
by St. Finn Barr in the sixth century, or of its troubled history
from then to the days when the Duke of Marlborough besieged it.
Except for its pleasant outlook and its clear skies, Cork is in
general like most busy ports and thriving municipalities. Patrick
Street and the Grand Parade are the principal shopping centres, and
the tree lined Mardyke and the Marina constitute fashionable
promenades. Among the modern buildings St. Finn Barr's Cathedral
and St. Mary's Cathedral are the most striking, and St. Anne's
Church on Shandon Hill attracts many pilgrims for the sweet peal of
bells in its queer tower which Father Prout (the Rev. Francis
Mahony) has immortalised.
QUEENSTOWN, "the great shining, winding harbour, with
its glaring waves, and white yachts and islands," a harbour so

General View of Queenstown,

spacious that it could easily contain the entire British Navy, can be
reached by two lines of railway in about half an hour from Cork.
But to see the beauties of the Lee, the better way is to take the
steamer from St. Patrick's bridge, which passes the Marina, Black-
rock Castle perched on a crag, the suburb of Tivoli, and then in its
onward course affords views of Passage West, Monkstown,
Crosshaven, and Cloyne via Aghada Pier. Queenstown, once known
as the Cove of Cork, occupies most of the southern shore of Great
Island, whilst the harbour is commanded by Spike Island — formerly
a convict settlement — and a third island, Haulbowline, serves as _.
depot for military stores. A naval dockyard has also a place in the
scheme. Queenstown, of course, is the great place of call for American
liners, which transfer their mails and passengers to a tender at the

Sundays' Well, Cork.
mouth of the harbour. The town creeps up the slopes of a hill in
terraces, and from these heights magnificent views of the great inland
lake, the lighthouse miles away at the mouth of the harbour, and
the country opposite to Cloyne — noted for its old cathedral and
round tower— are obtainable. Queenstown possesses a new and
beautiful cathedral, and like Crosshaven and Monkstown, enjoys a
reputation as a health resort.
BLARNEY. Although only five miles by road from Cork,
Blarney Castle is more expeditiously reached by the longer route
of the Cork and Muskerry Light Railway, which performs the
journey in half an hour. There are two "Blarney" stones, and
most people prefer to kiss the safer one inside the pleasant edifice,
and to use the tower for view purposes only.

123

COURTMACSHERRY. For bracing air, charming woodland
walks, and wonderful cliff scenery, this little hamlet of one street
and a hotel takes rank as the finest natural holiday resort in the
south of Ireland. Its spacious Atlantic bay is an ideal place for
boating and bathing, and for a "rest cure" no better place could
be devised. Courtmacsherry is 29 miles from Cork by the Cork
and Bandon Railway, one of the most picturesque little lines in
Ireland, which officially ends in this direction at Ballinascarthy,
and then a light railway, even more picturesque in its route, continues
and ends the journey by the side of a tidal river.
On that portion of the Cork and Bandon line which touches the
sea-board on its most southerly corner, comes also Kinsale,
Clonakilty, Harbour View (which possesses a golf links), Skibbereen,
Glandore, and Baltimore, the three last-named fishing resorts being
associated with the name of the late Baroness Burdett-Coutts.
YOUGHAL. At the opposite end ofthe county, on the Water
ford border, old Youghal nestles at the foot of a hill, whilst the
newer holiday resort, fronted by a well arranged promenade,
overlooks the bay. Youghal's air has tonic qualities, but the chief
attraction to the tourist is Myrtle Grove, the gabled house of Sir
Walter Raleigh, who was chief magistrate in Youghal in 15SS. The
poet Spenser knew this country well.
The Bantry and Glengariff section, though in Cork, belongs
rather to the Killarney district both in situation and character, and
is described in that section of the book.

The Beach, Queenstown. Photo, w.

124

.r*.)9j ft -^-l-LUU',

Poul-na-Gurm, showing Shame Mountains, Glengarriff.

Bantry, Glengariff, Kenmare, Valentia,
Parknasilla and Dingle.
Wilder and more mountainous than Cork, and with great inlets
from the Atlantic Ocean making huge peninsulas of its coast, the
County of Kerry rightly claims some of the most romantic and
inspiring scenery in the island. Even without Killarney, its scenic
attractions are manifold and diverse, and Killarney, where there is
excellent hotel accommodation, in addition to its own merits,
makes a capital centre for visiting the more bracing places around
the shores of the Kenmare River and Dingle Bay. Along this
ocean border there is a series of hotels at Kenmare, Parknasilla,
Waterville and Caragh Lake, and from Killarney a circular coaching
tour comprising all those places covers an area of about 150 miles.
The Lakes of Killarney are one of the show places of the world.
Sir Walter Scott said ofthe prospect that "it was the grandest sight
he had ever seen" ; Wordsworth, unmindful of his own English
Lakeland, wrote that they were "in point of scenery the finest
portion of British Islands"; and Wilkie, the painter, considered
that " for beauty and grandeur, he had never seen them surpassed."
These opinions have been endorsed so fully by succeeding generations,
and so much has been written about Killarney, that it is only necessary
to say here that their great charm lies in their position in the midst 01
majestic and lofty mountains, whose sides — often rocky, ragged and
steep — are covered with a wonderful succession of luxuriant vegetation.
Tree-crowned islets dot the lakes, and cataracts of every description
abound.

125

The Lakes which follow each other, in an irregular line, are three
in number — the Upper Lake, two and a half miles in length and
half a mile in breadth ; the Middle Lake, known also as the Tore
Lake and the Muckross Lake, two miles long and one mile broad ;
and the Lower Lake or Lough Leane, near one end of which the
town of Killarney stands, five miles in length and three miles broad. As
all the lakes have a connection by rivers or channels, boats can pass
from one end to the other. By a combination of boat, coach or car,
pony, and some walking, glimpses of an extraordinarily diversified
district extending over many miles can be seen and some of the passes
explored, whilst lovers of hill-climbing can scale Carrantual (3,414

Lough Leane, Killarney
feet) and Mangerton (2,756 feet), or view the lough 2,206 feet high
known as the Devil's Punch Bowl, which supplies Killarney town
with water.
It takes some three days by specially arranged trips to see the
leading " sights" of Killarney in the immediate district, but three
weeks would not exhaust all that is worth seeing. The angler enjoys
good sport. Perhaps the abiding impressions of Killarney are the
rich colouring and profusion of the vegetation and the extraordinary
purple haze on the mountains at certain times and hours. Many of
the roads bordering the lakes consist entirely of thick avenues, and
some of them are " smothered " in shrubbery and undergrowth.
The Upper Lake is the one most remote from the town and
railway station, and the one nearest to the Glengariff coach route.
126

Eccles Hotel, Glenqarrify.
Artists declare that it possesses the wildest and grandest mountain
scenerv of the trio, and among the peaks the Eagle's Nest, a
precipitous rock, stands out prominent. The Middle Lake has for a
neighbour the noble ruined abbey of Muckross, and some of its caves,
rocks and headlands were utilised by Dion Boucicault in his play,
"The Colleen Bawn.5' Lough Leane rejoices in thirty islands as
compared with four in its neighbour, and one of these is the famous
Innisfallen, the emerald gem. On a projecting peninsula of the
lough are the fine ruins of Ross Castle, a fortress dating from the
fourteenth century. The Gap of Dunloe, a gloomy mountain defile,
four miles in length, separating the Tomies Mountains from the
Macgillicuddy Reeks, runs parallel to the lakes.
ROUTES TO KILLARNEY. The journey to Killarney may
be made direct from Dublin or Cork, via Mallow, by the Great
Southern line. The 185 miles from Kingsbridge Station take less than
five hours, whilst the 61 miles from Cork occupy two hours, and the

Suspension Bridge, Kenmare.
127

morning train from Water
ford is timed to perform
the 116 miles in less than
four hours. But the pictur
esque route, which also
takes much more time and
costs more money, is the
one from Cork via Bantry
or Macroom and Glen
gariff, entailing the stay
of a night at the last-
named place.

Ross Castle, Killarney.

There are two ways ot using the last-named. The first is by rail
on the Cork and Bandon line to Bantry, which occupies two hours,
and then to cross the bay to Glengariff by steamer in three-quarters
of an hour, or to spend an hour and three-quarters in coaching around
it. The second is by rail on the Cork and Macroom line, to
Macroom (25 miles), and then to take the coach through the noble
pass of Keimaneigh and by Lake Gougane-Barra to Glengariff. In
both ways the landscape for most of the distance from the city is
pleasingly pastoral, and then gradually becomes mountainous and
sterile, the bleak and barren heights being varied, however, by
sheltered valleys and rippling streams.

Serpent Lake, Dunloe Gap
128

BANTRY. The great expanse of water known as Bantry Bay
has a singularly harmonious setting in the surrounding mountains, of
which Hungry Hill and the Sugar Loaf stand out in height and wild
grandeur. Perhaps the prevailing natural feature of this district, and
indeed of all the districts along the west and south-west coast of
Ireland, is the stillness. Outside a few centres of population the
spirit of solitude seems to brood over the scene. For miles along
this noble inlet of the sea not a sail may be seen, and there arc
big areas untouched by any railway. The little town of Bantry,
opposite Whiddv Island, occupies a valley at the head of the
bay, and offers to those who have a day to spare a coach excursion
towards the Atlantic of some twenty miles through wild and
romantic scenery.

Eagle's Nest, Killarney.

GLENGARIFF, nearly facing Bantry and on a little bay of its
own, is a deep luxuriant valley enclosed on three sides by steep hills
and fronted by a series of rocks, islets and isles, of which the Otter
claims the chieftainship. For freshness and woodland beauty
this glen is unrivalled, and its sheltered situation makes it an
admirable winter residence. Some scattered farms and a lew
hotels constitute the hamlet. A drive by the mail car to Castletown
• Berehaven, 12 miles towards the ocean, affords a comprehensive
view of the inner bay.

129

GLEN.
GARIFF TO
KILLARNEY.
The Glengariff
coach leaves
about nine in the
morning and
arrives at Kil
larney at half-
past five, the
leisurely journey
between Cork
and Kerry being
broken at Ken
mare for lunch. After the uphill track out tof the valley, the road
winds at a great height through a country of dark and stern mountains
and verdant valleys, and affords through the gaps and passes some
wonderful vistas of the Atlantic and of Bantry Bay. The road in
places resembles a narrow mountain shelf, sometimes sheer or steep,
other times with a gradual descent, and its wonderful panoramas and
glimpses of glittering lakes are only curtailed by higher ranges of hills.
One of the most remarkable of the views occurs after passing through
a tunnel — lit by flares —which divides the two counties, when the
Kerry mountains disclose themselves in all their wild impressive
beauty.

Old Cromwell's Bridge, 'Kenmare.

Brickein Bridge, Killarney.
MO

Kenmare is a quiet and winsome little place at the head ofthe
wide estuary known as the Kenmare river, and among the many
excursions in the vicinity the one to Dereen, the demesne of the
Marquis of Lansdowne, stands out pre-eminent. Resuming the way
to Killarney, the road rises again gradually out of the scenes ot
sylvan delight and winds its way among the mountains, here and
there the sheen of a waterfall or a torrent dazzling the eye. At the
crest of the hill, the Upper Lake rushes into the landscape, and then
a gradual descent of several miles past Muckross, and through a long
avenue, ends in a town of some six thousand inhafiitants.

Salmon Leap, Sheen Valley, Kenmare.

VALENTIA AND THE COAST RESORTS. Proceeding
from Killarney north by rail towards Tralee, the first coast branch
sweeps west at Farranfore towards the south shore ot Dingle Bay,
and ends at Valentia Harbour. But on the way a station and
hotel at Caragh arrests the angler, for there are seven lakes about
here favourably known for trout and salmon, with additional
attractions in a golf course and bathing strand. Opposite the cliffs
of Cahirciveen, Valentia Island looms out, and the twenty minutes
passage in a ferry boat brings the tourist not only into a botanical
paradise but into a little kingdom, seven miles by three, which will
repay a few days' stay in its cosy hotel. The cliffs, hills, lighthouse,
and Atlantic cable station help to fleet the time.

13'

Bridge in Fairy Glen, Killarney.

From Cahirci
veen the coaching
tour begins, the
first stop being at
Waterville, situated
on a narrow strip
of land separating
the freshwater
Lough Currane
from the Atlantic,
and with mountains
on one side. Ang
ling, boating, bath
ing and golf com
prise some of the
holiday business,
with capital Hotels
from which to form a base, and Derrynane, the home of Daniel
O'Connell, is in the vicinity. Parknasilla-on-Sea, aptly described as
a tropical garden, conies next on the tour, and Parknasilla offers
much like the others except that tennis takes the place of golf, and
the hotel stands in beautiful grounds of some two hundred acres in
extent. Many excursions by steamer, boat, and car find a place during
the summer, whilst Kenmare and the railway are 15 miles away.
DINGLE. Mention has been
made of Tralee, the capital of
Kerry, and some 22 miles from
Killarney. An excursion by rail
along a mountainous peninsula at
the north of Dingle Bay, to Dingle,
a distance of 25 miles, reveals
some of the finest cliffs of the coast.
Beyond, in a wild and solitary
district where barren headlands
sometimes rise a thousand feet
above the Atlantic, with higher
hills behind, the scenery is truly
of an awe-inspiring character.
Take it in all, the Kerry coast
scenery has no rival in these isles
for diversity of character.

Tor Cascade.

132

INDEX.

Achill and Dugort
Adare and Askeaton
AntrimAran Islands
ArdaraArdclass -
ArmaghAthlone Ballina and Killala
Ballycastle Ballyshannon -
Bangor Bantry Battle Site, The
Bective Abbey
Belfast Belleek Blackwater, Along the
Blarney Blessington and Poulaphouca
Bray Buncrana -
Bundoran -
Burton Port
CarlingfordCarrickCarrick-a-Rede Carrick-on-Su;rCarrickfergus -
Carrickaunes FOR TH_. Scalp-
Cashel and Thurles
Casfleconnell -
CastlerockClifdenClones ClonmacnoisClonmelClontarfConnaught Cork -
Courtmacsherry Courtown and Ferns
Cushendall CushendenDalkey
Devil's Glen
DingleDonaghadee
Donegal Downpatrick
Dowth 'V*ound -
Drogheda -
Dromineer-DublinDundrum (Co. Dublin)
Dundrum (Co. Down)
DunfanaghyDungloe

Page 105 110 59
OS 8050 5092
106 64 S5 55
- 129 37
4052 SS
119
123 26 27
71 86
7943 93 64
118 5721
114
109 66
102 9094
118 17
91
121 124
116 6263
23 30 Wl
56
82 50 37
36
111 11
2050
78 79

Page
East Down Coast, The- 48
Enniskillen 88
Fair Head - 63
Galway 95
Garron Point 62
Garton 74
Giant's Causeway 65
Glemarm 62
Glencolumbkille 80
Glengariff 129
Glenmalure 32
Glenties 80
Greencastle 47
Greenore - 42
Greystones - 29
Gweedore- 79
Helen's Tower 56
Howth 18
Inishowen Peninsula - 70
Inistigoe and Parpoint Abbey 118
Kells and Oldcastle 40
Kildare 26
Kilkee 112
Kilkeel 47
Kilkenny 118
Killaloe and Lough Derg - 110
Killarney- 127, 130
K.LL1NEY 24
Killybegs - 82
Kilmacrenan 74
Kilrush, Down Shannon to 111
Kin stown 22
Lahinch and Lisdoonvakna 113
Larne- 60
Leenane 103
Letterfrack 102
Le 1 terkenny 74
Limer ck 108
Londonderry 68
Lough Corrib - 97
Lough Erne 89
Lough Ree and Auburn- 93
Lucan 25
Lugnaquilla ^
Malahide 19
Malin Head 71
Mallaranny 104
Maynooth and Taghadoc 25
Mellifont A^bey 38
Milfupd 76
Monasterboice - 39
Moville 70
Mlllingar- 92
Narrow Water 45
Newcastle 49
Newgrange Tumulus 38
New Ross- 1 l6
Newry !

133

INDEX — continued.

Page
Newtownards - 56
Omeath 44
Oughterard 100
Portrush, Routes to 6065
Portsalon- - 75
Powerscourt and the Dargle 29
Queenstown "122
Rathdrum for Glendalough- 30
Rathmullen 75
Recess 101
Rosapenna 77
Rostrevor- 46
Roundstone 101
Salthill 96
Slane- 39

Page

Sligo

107

Strabane

67

Sutton

17

Swords

19

Tara and Trim

39

Tramore and Dunmore

117

Vale of Ovoca

33

Valentia and Coast Resorts

¦ 131

Waterford

117

Warrenpoint

46

Westport -

103

Wexford

116

Whitehead

58

Wicklow Town

30

Woodenbridge -

33

Youghal

124

INDEX TO ANNOUNCEMENTS.

HOTELS— Page
Belfast.— Giand Central Hotel I4I
,, Ciown Hotel 142
,, Robinson's Tempeiance Hotel 142
Bray.— Bray Head Hotel See below.
Castlerock. — Golf Hotel 147
Clifden. — Railway Hotel 142
,, Dudley Aims Hotel 142
Cork.— Hotel Metropole- 143
Dublin. — Shelbourne Hotel 144
Jury's Restaurant 145
Maple's Hotel - 145
Moran's Hotel - 146
Granville Hotel 146
Belgrave Hotel 147
North Star Hotel 147
Hotel Allen 147
Royal Hibernian 142
Enniscorthy. — Portsmouth Arms 147
Galway (Recess).— Railway Hotel 139
Killarney.— Castle Hotel 148

Page

Killarney— Russell's Temperance Hotel
,, Gleeson's Private Hotel
,, Royal Victo ia Hotel
Larne. — Holden's Hotel -
Londonderry. — City Hotel
Northern Counties Hotel
Oughterard.— Murphy's Hotel
Mallaranny. — Railway Hotel
Rosslare. — Rosslare (Strand) Hotel
Strabane. — Abercorn Arms
Valencia. — Royal Hotel -
Wexford. — White's Hotel
Wicklow. — Woodenbiidge Hotel -
Youghal. — Devonshire Arms Hotel
TRADE—
Minimax Ltd. ... 143
Thompson's Motoi Car Co. 148
Railway Passengers Assurance Co. - 152

148
149 149 150 151151
140 151 151
149 150
150 149

BRAY. Co. Wicklow.
BRAY HEAD HOTEL
Family and Tourist Hotel.
Facing Sea and Promenade (one mile long). 75 Sunny Rooms.
Home Comforts. Excellent Cuisine. Spacious Lounge. Electric Light.
Perfect Sanitation. Boating. Bathing. Fishing. Golf. Garage.
Terms : From 2^ Guineas per Week.
Cook's Coupons AcceptcJ. Apply MANAGER.
'34

Dublin and South Eastern Railway.
Spend Your holidays

IN

COUNTY WICKLOW
The Garden of Ireland.

.-. GHBftP TRAVELLING .'.
Eight-Day Contract Tickets
Are issued to Passengers booked from any place in ENGLAND,
WALES, or SCOTLAND, to DUBLIN or any Station on the
Dublin and South Eastern Railway entitling the holders to travel
AS OFTEN AS THEY PLEASE over the lines of the Dublin
and South Eastern Company, covering some of the most attractive
Tourist Districts in Ireland.
:: FARES FOR THE CONTRACT TICKETS ::

First Oftc Second
Class LUOi Class

1 OS* Class 1 US*

GOLFING. . .

BOATING. . .

FISHING . . .

BATHING. . .

SHOOTING . . MOUNTAINEERING .

/. tf /. will be found al BRAY. GREYSTONES,
UOll 1/OUfSCS WICKLOW and WOODENBRIDGE . . .
Tourist Literature, Time Tables, anil all information can be
obtained on application to -Mr. John Coghlan, Traffic Manager,
50, Westland Row, Dublin. A. G. REID, General Manager

135

MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY
OF IRELAND.

Connemara, Achill,
and West of Ireland.
MOUNTAIN, SEA, and LAKE.
TOURIST TICKETS

ISSUED FROM THE

Principal Towns in England and Scotland.

HOTELS UNDER COMPANY'S MANAGEMENT at
RECESS (CONNEMARA); and
MALLARANNY (near Achill Island).
These Hotels are owned and managed by the Railway Company.
Visitors at Recess Hotel have Free Fishing on a
portion of the Ballynahinch River.
Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths attached to Mallaranny Hotel.
Boating, Bathing, and Cycling. Motor Garages. Inspection Pits. Petrol.
Gilfing and Free Shooting and Fishing in connection
with the Hotel at Mallaranny.

A MOTOR TOURIST CAR SERVICE
has been established by the Company through the beautiful
imposing, and romantic scenery of the Connemara District.

Guides, Time Tables, Tourist Programmes and Hotel Tariffs can be
obtained on application to the Company's Agent, Mr. Joseph Hoey, 50, Castle
Street, Liverpool ; Messrs. Co >k & Son's Offices ; Tourist Development Offices,
65, Haym?rket, London, or from the Superintendent of the Line, Broadstone
Station. Dublin. M. F. KEOGH, General Manager.

136

Great Northern Railway (Ireland).
The Great Northern of Ireland is the Royal Mail
and Express Route between England and Belfast
and the North and North-West of Ireland, via
Holyhead and Kingstown, and also the Route
via Holyhead^ and^ j)ublin (North Wall)
• ¦ and Holyhead and Greenore. . .

Breakfast and Dining Cars are run between Dublin
and Belfast.

Mountain, Lough, River, g Sea. Golfing, Fishing, Coaching, Cycling.
CENTRES OF RESORT;
Bundoran go. Donegal.- (On the Atlantic Coast). One of the
. . finest and most attractive Resorts in Ireland. "Great
Northern Hottl," owned by the Railway Company.
An 18-hoie Golf Course surrounds the Hotel, which
Visitors have the use of free. Fishing, Lough Melvin,
c&c.
Ro^fVnPnna B? D°negal Highlands. Situated amidst the finest
ivuooiJeuuo V SCenery in the country. High Class Hotels. 18-hole
PortSJllon. <~"°" bourses adjoin each of these Hotels.
The route to Rosapenna is via Strabane, Raphoe, and Letterkenny to
Creeslough, thence by *Char-a-banc. To Portsalon by the same route as far
as Letterkenny, thence by *Motor leaving Letterkenny in connection with the
8.45 p.m. Mail train from Euston.
N_>W_*S_ctl_> Famed Golfing Resort (18-hole course). Direct
il.wtosue . . Service by the New Route via Ballyroney.
Rosfr_»Vf_r ____? Wirronnnint 0n Carlingford Lough. Mourne
IVUSiriSVUr O YY arrenpOim. Mountains District. Balmy and
restorative climate.
DOynC Valley. Sylvan, Historical, and Antiquarian districts.
Enniskillen . . Island Town. — Lake Fishing, Boating. Ac.
Donegal, Glenties, Killybegs, Letterkenny, &c.
* Summer Season only.
Ey the New Line from Strabane to Letterkenny via Rapboe, the distance to
Portsalon, Rosapenra, Gweedore, and the County Donegal has been greatly re
duced. By it the loss of time and expense of driving across Londonderry is avoided.
The Company's Guide to Donegal, entitled " Picturesque Donegal," contains
full information as to the Health Resorts of Donegal, and information for Sports
men as to Fishing, Golfing, Shooting, &c. Copies (price Is. each) can be obtained
from the Superintendent-of-tbe-Line, Amien3 Street Terminus, Dublin, from
whom time-tables and tourist literature can also be obtained on application.
U.i | The Company own First-clacs Hotels at Bundoran, Rostrevor,
HOICIS. and Warrenpoint.
Dublin, iqi4. JOHN BAGWELL, General Manager.

137

Cork, Bandon % Sooth Coast Railway.
Gktigarriff and . . .
The Lakes of Killarney.
TA51D1CTC SHOULD ASK FOR THE
1 UUlvivjlu CIRCULAR TOUR TICKETS
 BY TUE 
Prince of Wales' Route
 APPLICABLE 
Via MALLOW, or via CORK and BANTRY.
IT* "a _ To Ireland and Residents in Ireland contemplating
TlallVlu a Tour to the Lakes of Killarney, and travelling via
Cork, should be careful to proceed via Bantry, thence by Steamer or
Motor Coach to Glengarriff, over the exquisitely beautiful route chosen
by His Late Majesty when Prince of Wales, which is now recognised
as the Grand Tour to Killarney, and includes the finest Coach or
Motor Drive in Ireland (52 miles). Tickets good for two months,
with stop-over privileges. Direct and expeditious connection wilh
American Steamers arriving in Queenstown. Best road for visiting
the " Beauty Spots" of Ireland.
Capital Fishing and Shooting. Good Hotels.
Saloon, Lavatory, and Smoking Carriages between Cork 8 Bantry.
The S.S. " _.ady Elsie" plies between Bantry and Glengarriff in connection
with Trains and Motor Coaches. The Coupon for that portion of journey ia
available liy either Steamer or Motor Coach, at the option of the Tourist.

IW This is the only Route Running through Bantry.
From the Cork Press " Ills Royal Highness and suite having selected the
above route, indisputably stamps it as tlie most desirable and picturesque one
for Tourists." For full particulars see illustr.ted Guide and Tourist Programmes, sent post
free upon application to undersigned ; orap;>ly to Messrs. Cook & Sons' Offices
or to any Sta tion Master or Agent of London & North Western Railway Co.
JOHN R. KERR,
Albert Quay Terminus, Cork. General Manager
138

RaihVay Hotel
RECESS (CONNEMARA),
Co. GALWAY. 

'A~ HIS HOTEL is owned by and under the management of the
^* Midland Great Western Railway of Ireland Company. It
occupies a picturesque situation in the midst of the well-known Lake
District of Connemara ; is sheltered from the north-easterly winds by
the Maamturk Mountains, and from its position it affords magnificent
views of the famous Twelve Bens.
Spacious Drawing, Coffee, Writing, Billiard,
and Smoke Room ; Private Sitting and Bath
Rooms, and about 40 Bedrooms. 
Improved Heating System. Electric Light throughout.
Dark Room for Amateur Photographers.
FREE FISHING to Visitors over a portion of the Ballynahinch Fishery.
Accommodation for Motors and Cycles. Petrol kept in Stock.
A Motor Car which may he hired by Visitors, is attached to the Hotel.
Postal and Telegraph Office adjoins the Hotel.
A Special Platform has been provided opposite the hotel for
passengers arriving and departing by train.
Hotel Porter (in uniform) meets all trains.
For Tariff Apply to—
Manageress, Railway Hotel,
Recess (Connemara), Co. Galway.
139

IRatlwa^ Ibotel,
MALLARANNY, Co. MAYO.

'HIS HOTEL, which is owned by and under the management of
the Midland Great Western Railway of Ireland Company, adjoins
Mallaranny Station on the Westport and Achill Line, it occupies a
commanding position, overlooking Clew Bay, and is situated on its
own ground of over 50 acres.
Contains Drawing, Writing, Coffee, Billiard,
Smoke, and Private Sitting Rooms. ....
A Large Extension has been built to the Hotel, as the accommo
dation for Visitors was found to be inadequate, increasing the number
of Bedrooms to over 50. Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh -Water Baths
are attached to the Hotel. Accommodation has also been provided for
housing Cycles and Motors. Petrol kept in stock
Electric Light. Every Modern Comfort and Convenience.
Free Fishing to Visitors. Golf Links.
Shooting, Boating, and Bathing.
A Motor Car, which may be hired by Visitors, is attached to Hotel.
Postal and Telegraph Office close to the Hotel.
Hotel Porter meets all Trains.
For Tariff Apply to—
Manageress, Railway Hotel,
Mallaranny, Co. Mayo.

140

. BELFAST. ..

Crand (entral Hotel.
THE FINEST HOTEL IN IRELAND.

lllfl MJM~

200 Rooms.

Electric Light throughout.

Passenger Lift to all floors. Excellent Cuisine.
Most Central position. Moderate Tariff.

Omnibuses from the Hotel attend the arrival and
departure of all Steamers and Trains.

Telegraphic Address: "GRAND CENTRAL, BELFAST."
Telephone No. 2586 (3 lines).

COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED.

141

BELFAST.— 6ROWN HOTEL, York Street.
Most convenient to Midland Station and near Steamers. Highly recommended.
*Pl_CIAL NOTE.— Passengers by the L. & N. W. Railway specially catered
tor on mentioning this official publication, 6/- day ; 35/- week.
U. tal . S TO ___.!_., Proprietor.

Belfast: Robinson's Temperance Hotel,
82 DONEGAL STREET, BELFAST.
Centrallv situated for Stations and Steamboats. Trams pass to all parts
of the City. TERMS MODERATE. Address-MANAGER.

CLIFDEN

First class Family
and Commercial.
Marconi's Wireleas TelegTaph Station within a
mile of the town.
Daily and Weekly Terms on application
if required.
L 4N.W. R. Official
publication

A capital centre
for touring Conne
mara, the scenery of
which is unsurpassed; whilst
the air is most invigorating. A
fcrtcight at Clifden is equal to a month
at most places, ard should a glance at the
letterpress in this guide .educe you to try a
fcrtnight, the Manageress will be pleased to quote
you specially moderate srd inclusive charges if you
will mention L. & N. W. K. CFFICIAL PUBLICATION

CLIFDEN, CONNEMARA.
McDonnell's Dudley Arms Hotel.
Marconi's Wireless Station )¦_¦ hour's walk from Hotel.
Replete with every Comfort, 3 minutes' walk from
Railway Station and Sea. — Terms moderate.
Professional Chef engaged for Season.
Specimens of Connemara Marble in various Irish Designs
can be purchased at Hotel, cut, carved, and polished by
members of Proprietor's family.
A. F. McDONNBLL, Proprietor.

142

Hotel Metropole

Cork.

Finest Unlicensed Hotel in Ireland.

Recent
extensive
additions now
complete-Electric
Elevator and
all modern
conveniencesRoof Gardens
a special
feati!*-**.

'A

lrTO

¦*\\

Ili!„bi4-if11»l

I ¦ . j ,.

w*riH:r'12Lf~!~

IS THE HOTEL
IN WHICH YOU ARE STAYING
PROTECTED WITH
MINSMAX?

Unless Fire Appliances are absolutely
reliable, instantaneous in action and
quite simple, an outbreak of Fire
may be disastrous.
Minimax U the extinguisher par ex
cellence for Hotels, Private Houses,
Works, etc.

Full particulars from (Dept. H)
MINIMAX LTD.,
Head Office and Factory :
FELTHAM, MIDDLESEX.
Branches— LONDON, GLASGOW, DUBLIN,
CALCUTTA, BOMBAY, SYDNEY.
143

ShelBoURMe hotel

Facing the beautiful Stephen's Green Park.
DUBLIN.
5 MINUTES DRIVE FROM WESTLAND ROW STATION.

THE LEADING DQBLIN HOTEL.
Moderate Charges. Choicest Cuisine.
ELEVATORS. - ELECTRIC LIGHT.
Roons with Private Baths, &c.
FREE GARAGE.

For Tariff and Guide apply to Manager,

"The Best Hotel in Dublin." "The Queen."
Telegrams —
Telephone- 15O-780. "SHELBOURNE HOTEL, DUBLIN."
144

JURY'S Hotel 8 Restaurant.
College Green. DUBLIN.

Telephone No. 503 Dublin.

TINEST Situation. Cen
tre of the City. Over
100 Large and Airy
Rooms. Electric Light
throughout. Elevator. Free
Garage and Cycle Storage.
First-Class Restaurant and
Grill Room attached;
Recherche' Cooking and
Popular Prices. Extensive
Smoking Lounge. Ladies'
Drawing Room. Writing
Room and Buffet. Ban
queting Salons.
Xuncbcon JSar.

Apply for Terms
(Moderate and Inclusive)
-to- '1^fe»® _
VINCENT 0 CONNOR, Manager.
(Lata Savoy & Gordon Hotels).

Telegrams: "JURY, DUBLIN."

1%>,_siSTrA**"^' L—

t^M

- v _ .A n i 'm00^

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jess "-_W&U ¦

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~ *""'."-: * >.'i - JlTTr

-' .; •-- -=" ¦ "*=•" *s'

3" >^;i-I{i;;':'

§^ ^k? 1^* *|£af. £ . rase? ¦

Maple's Jlotel,
:. DUBLIN. .'.

The Home of the last Speaker of Irish
House of Commons,

1[-\ISITORS to Dublin who wish to be lodged in Artistic
and Historic surroundings and at the same time to
enjoy all modern comforts will find that in Maple's Hotel
all these requirements are fulfilled.

Service and Cooking and Cellar are deservedly held in
high repute.
Electric Light throughout.
Free Garage. .*. Charges Modeiate.
M5

DUBLIN.

Moran's Hotel

TALBOT STREET.

\

ere 3m ffifti

One of the most centrally situated Hotels in the City.
Within five minutes drive of Westland Row Station.

60 LARGE AIRY BEDROOMS.

TARIFF.
Bed and Breakfast from 3/6.
Boarding Terms from 6 6 per day.

Telegrams: " Moran's Hotel, Dublin." Night Porter.
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT.
Telephone No. 914. Proprietors- J. & F. A. MORAN.

DUBLIN.

•$•

Qraqville d{otel,
UPPER SACKVILLE STREET.
Close to Nelson's Pillar. Centre for Tram Service all over City.
Telephone 342.— Telegrams : " GRANVILLE, DUBLIN. '

High Class Moderate Hotel. Fully licensed. No Public Ear.
Passenger Lift. :: Night Porters. :: 70 Bedrooms.
SPECIAL NOTE.— Passengers by the L. & N. W. R. on montioning this official
publication will be specially catered for 8/- to 10/- Day; £2 10s. Week.
I46

Belgrave Hotel,
Belgrave Square, DUBLIN.
Electric Light. Cycle Accommodation. Quick Service.
Recherche' Cuisine. Separate Tables.
Poultry from own Farm; also Garden Produce.
Table d'Hote Breakfast, Bed, Attendance, Light, & Bath, 4/-
EN PENSION, 6/- DAY; 35/- WEEK, INCLUSIVE.
Bus or Porter meets all Trains when instructed to do so.
Poultry, Butter, &. Milk from own Farm. Trams nassthe door.
Telephone 40. Telegrams— " BELGRAVE HOTEL, DUBLIN."
Tlorth Star Hotel,
DUBLIN.
(OPPOSITE GREAT NORTHERN STATION).
 * 
Five Minutes from all Steamers. Completely Renovated.

BAR, BILLIARD AND SMOKE ROOMS.
BEST DRINKS ONLY SUPPLIED.

BEDS from 2- BREAKFAST, I/- to 2/6.

Trams pass the Door. Three minutes from Nelson's Pillar.
 * 
Large Livery Stables. No Charge for Attendance. Night Porter.
Mrs. J. C. MALONE, Proprietor.

Hotel aileN,

This Hotel will be found most comfortable.
Large airy Bedrooms with Hot and Col I
AVater Supply.
Harcourt Street, Special Weekly Terms.
DUBLIN. Tel. 455. Miss ALLEN, Proprietress

Enniscorthy. uortsmouth Arms Commercial
8 Family Hotel.

P(

Ertlblished 1796. WT - - , j wj 4 Modern Improvement-.
JOHN BENNET, A ti F Ti fF_ I I V BltffPI Ixten-ive Accom.
Proprietor. O 1 OlllII J IAVIvIi Moderate Onargej.

147

MOTOR CARS rnn HIDE
TAXI CABS run niK-t.

1 ' . - * * TKWP5*

Thompson's Motor Car Co., Ltd..
19 & 20, Great Brunswick Street,
DUBLIN.

Telephones 2558, 2559, and 2560.
Telegrams " Traction, Dublin."

the Castle fiotd

KILLARNEY. Centrally situated.
Electric Light throughout.
Inclusive Tariff,
6,6 per day.
The Hotel Cars meet all Trains and Coaches, and Visitors are conveyed
to the Hotel free of charge.
Baths (hot and Cold) Weekly Terms on Application.
Mrs- O CONNOR, Proprietress.
Gleeson's Private Hotel.

Visitors who wish to see the Lakes and scenery at little expense
will find the charges at this Hotel very moderate, but are warned against
Touts at Mallow, and should insist on coming to Gleeson's. Terms 5 - per
day which includes Bed, Breakfast, Dinner, Tea, and Attendance. Coaching
and Boati-Qg arranged daily.
Apply N. W. GLEESON, Proprietor.
LAKES OF RUSSELL'S RESTAURANT AND
KILLARNEY. temperance hotel
One minute's walk from Railway Station,

Newly renovated. Lighted throughout with Electricity.
i niionn . Excursions arranged daily. Cars and Waiter attend all
U. KUobELL, Trains. Tariff 5 6 per day. Bed, Single 2-. Double S-.
No. l Tour, Car & Boat 7, - each. No. 2 Tour by Car only 3/6.
Proprietor. No. 8 Tour by Car only 3/6. Weekly Terms on application.
I48

LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
'ROYAL VICTORIA" Hotel on lake
Only 12 Hours from London.

Telegraphic and Telephone Offices in the Hotel.
Electric Light in all the Bedrooms.
Beautifully Illustrated Brochure Free.
UNDER the immediate patronage of 1 1 is late Majesty King Edward VII.,
T. R. H. The Duke and Duchess of Connaught. Prince Arthur, Princess
Margaret, and Princess Victoria Patricia of Connaught, also the Royal
Families of Germany, France, and Belgium; the Nobility and Gentry of Great
Britain and Ireland, and leading American Families.
This Hotel, containing So bedrooms, is situated on the Lower Lake, facing
Innisfallen, and commands the most exquisite views in Killarney. It is ten
minutes from the Railway and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe.
"I am completely charmed with Killarney, and this is the most comfortable
Hotel I have ever stayed at." (EMPRESS Kl'GKNIK), joth July, i<)oq.
The only Hotel in Killarney at The only First-class Hotel in

which King Edward ever stayed,
and where His late Majesty's
signature can be seen.

Killarney under the personal
supervision of its Proprietor.
MOTOR GARAGE.
Lighted by Electricity throughout, Charging Plant.
NEW LOUNGE HALL added. Moderate Charges
The Official Hotel recommended by Members cf the Automobile Clubs cf
England, America, France, and Germany.
Telephone 25. Address— THE PROPRIETOR.

LARNE— HOLDERS HOTEL, Curran Road.
10TJRS TOEELFAST, PORTRTJSK, GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, and ANTRIM COAST (May to end of
October)— 280 miles R -ill way Travelling, '0 miles Coach Lrives, ti days' Hotel Accommodation, and
Food— £2 5s. Od. Conductor: " Qncle John." Money not demanded until tour is concluded. Satis
faction p-uarant^ed Particulars appl; Holden s, Curran Road. Larne (late of Blackburn, Lanes.)

Ifto^al Ifootel
II m \T a t rvrrA r^_ \r  v \i
1. \

Visit the Kerry Highlands,
Valencia, Co. Kerry. Some of the
most magnificent scenery in the
VALENCIA, Co. Kerry. \\ British Isles. Situate on the

40 miles by rail west of Killarney, IGf hours from

Grand Atlantic Route. Railway

London by the G W.R., via Fi-hgWd <_ Rosslare. Ml station: Valencia Harbour.
7THE Royal Hotel has been patronised by H M The King, and T R.H. The
U- Duke and Duchess of Connaught. Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths;
water pumped daily from the Atlantic. Bathing, Boating, and Sea Fishing in
front of the Hotel. The Atlantic Cables connecting the Old and New Worlds
can be seen in full operation Lord John Manners, in his interesting Notes
says, "No words can describe the fascination of the scene from the Cliffs
of Valencia," and Lord Tennyson, on the occasion of his last visit, wrote that
"He found there the highest waves that Ireland knows, cliffs that at one
spot rise to a height of 800 feet, tamarisks and fuschias that no sea winds
can intimidate."
Pretty 9-hole Golf Course near the Hotel. Comfortable and safe boats
with steady boatmen. POSTING TERMS VERY MODERATE.

YOUGHAL -DEVONSHIRE ARMS HOTEL.
This Family and Comroerci.il Hotel will be found moat comfortable end convenient for
tourists visiting ¦ h.-- beautiful scenery of the I'lackwater River. Hotel cars meet all trains, and
the torn 1st .teainer which plvs on ihe Blackwater from June to October. Good Motor accommo
dation free to Vieltora using the Hotel. Motor Gaiage. Pit. Peiroi stocked. Running repairs
don* by motor mechanic, Moderate charges. Captain GREEN, Proprietor.
149

LONDONDERRY.
CITY HOTEL
High Class Family and Commercial.
Telephone 198. Telegrams: " City Hotel."
Opposite Landing Stage* of Garage on Hotel Premises.
Cross Channel Steamers. Headquarters of R. A. Club,
Principal Starting Point for Automobile Association,
Donegal Highlands and Motor Union,
Giant's Causeway. and U. K. C. T. A.

'HIS, the Leading Hotel, stands in the principal thorough
fare, facing the City Hall, overlooking Derry's Historic
Walls and Siege Guns, it affords a charming view of
the River Foyle, Rosses Bay, and Wooded Headlands. Ele
gant Bedrooms, Smoking and Billiard Rooms. Commercial,
Coffee, Drawing, and Writing Rooms. 'Bus and Porter
attend all trains. Night Porter. Electric Light throughout.
Cook's Coupons and American Express Cheques accepted.
 THOS. OKANE, Manager,
WEXFORD. Established 1795.

WHITE'S HOTEL
Which is the perfect embodiment of all that is
COMFORTABLE, CONVENIENT, and as regards
charges, MODERATE.
The oldest and best known Hotel in the South
of Ireland. Visitors can be supplied with Cars and Carriages
 HUGH McCARTHY, Proprietor.

A Tourists, Sportsmen, and W \J\J \J L 1 1 D l\l \J \j L
HOTEL,

Sl£», viTllI£ HOTFI C0UNTY
call at — I l\7 I LL, WICKLOW.

FIRST CLASS. 
TTHE Hotel Is situated in the midst of the most charming scenery in the County Wicklow, ami
\-y within easy distance nf Shelton Abbey. Ballvarthur, Castle Howard, Glenart, Fnst and
Second Meeting, Goldmines, Glenmalure, Glendalough, &e.
The Hotel ia within five minutes' walk of the Railway Station aud Golf Links. Garden and
Giounds afford .ome of tlie best views in Wicklow, if not in all Iieland.
<iooil Trout Fishing Free.
This season tlie Hotel has Ijeen refurnished and done up, aud the D & S E Rv issue
S|»Oei:il 4 heap Rail ami D>illiier Tickets on Tui-.-Uys Wednesdays Thursdays
;jnd hatimUys, fmm IMlbl i II. First-,. la_s3, 8 *> I Second-clays, ?.... Week-end Rail and Hotel
¦ rips; Fiiet-class, 27/4; Sucond-clasB, a« 6. 150

 LONDONDERRY 
NORTHERN COUNTIES HOTEL.
The Finest Hotel in the North West.
Garden Roof commanding magnificent view of Lough Foyle and the City.
Telephone 195, Garage I. P. Telegrams: " Norotel."
IN CONJUNCTION WITH
 STRABANE. 
THE ABERCORN ARMS.
Fishing and Golfing.  The Leading County Hotel.
The natural Centre lor the Donegal Highland.

 CASTLEROCK. 
THE QOLF HOTEL.
Adjoining the Golf Links— 18 holes. Facing the Atlantic. Excellent Bathing
Splendid Fishing. Within easy distance of Portrush, the Giant's Causeway, and
Derry's Famous Walls. These Hotels are all under the supervision of
Mrs. GIBSON, Proprietress.
Close Championship Golf Links. 1912
44 Anglers' _E» _____» a, ci ± *_© . "
0lcGHSAAvRO MURPHY'S HOTEL.
FIRST CLASS.- Established over 100 years.
Commands splendid view of Lough Corrib, only a few minutes' walk.
FINEST BROWN TROUT LAKE
IN IRELAND. - FREE FISHING.
O EASON just opening., Splendid Sport anticipated. Mild climate.
LA Delightful scenery and drives. Gr»nd Summer Kesort. Every attention
rJ paid to visitors Home comforts. Private Sitting Rooms if required.
Cuisine excellent. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Posting 10 all its Branches.
Cars meet all trains. Railway Station, Telegraph Office (two posts daily),
quite convenient Nice walks and drives in the neighbourhood. Petrol
stocked. Garage. APP'V MANAGER.

DACCT ADF (STRAND).-The ROSSLARE HOTEL,
K II A A I, A |\ ly ¦¦'¦ the Picturesque Strand, four minutes' walk from
**WWW Rosslare Strand Station, and five minutes by rail
from Rosslare Pier, is unrivalled for position, comfort, and moderate charges,
Promenade roof with charming views. Hot and cold, fresh and sea-water baths.
Hotel telegraph and postal offices.
GOLF LINKS ADJOINING^ HOTEL.
Under the personal supervision of Mr. W. J. KELLY, Proprietor.
151

AILWAYMSENGERS^

-^_, HEAD OFFICE 64. CORNHILL. LONDON. EC. A
Tlii- Shares of which ate vested in & tJie Contracts of wluch are guaranreed hy the
NORTH BRITISH & MERCANTILE INSURANCE CO

INSURANCE HGHINST
Accidents of all Kinds

Accidents and Illness

Workmen's Compensation.

Third Party Liability.
Motor Car Risks.
Burglary.

Glass Breakage.
Loss of Baggage.
Fidelity Guarantee.

Railway Journey Insurance Tickets can be had
at Station Booking Offices.
M( C'ORQUODALK & Co, , L:MITED, NeWTON-LE-WiU,(»VS.

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