YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 0711

190

1 ^ ¦'**''4iLtisi2s1l5j
^ri|f^:r=-
YALE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

THIE

-S"^-^

¦X.>- -i

EXPLORATIONS

JONATHAN OLOKIICK, F. G. S. Q.
EASTERN LATITUDES
By J. M. LeMOINE

French Shield detached by General Murray, in 1759, from one of
the Gates of Quebec and sent to Hastings, England.

PRINTED By L. J. DEMERS & FRERIi]
Editors of '' Le Cmidrlicn " and " VEveiiement."
1889

-S=^

[From Quebec Moming Chronicle, 11th July, 1889.]
A NEW BOOK FROM Mr. LeMQINE.

EXPLORATIONS OF JONATHAN OLDBaCK, F. G. S. Q.,
IN EASTERN LATITUDES.

" The announcement of the appearance of a new book from
Mr. J.-M. LeMoine, F. R. S. C, will be hailed with delight by
the readers of our author's " Seaside Series" of works on Cana
dian history, legends, traditiqns, &c. "i The Explorations of
Jonathan Oldbuck, F. G. S. Q. , in Eastern Latitudes " is a
new book, fresh from the press this very week. Possessing all
the charms of novelty, freshness and originality, it yet re-intro
duces us to a number of old and very welcome friends and faces.
Being the outcome, as Mr. LeMoine tells us in hia prospectus, of
more than ten years of travel by land and by sea, it goes without
saying that the history and traditions acquired and stored away
for the present work, and the pen pictures with which it is so
graphically, artistically and elaborately illustrated, were not
concealed under lock and key in the author's study at Spencer
Grange, until Mr. LeMoine was prepared to apring them all
upon us by surprise. Such are not the author's methods. He is
not afraid to show us his partly finished work, but takes his
friends into his confidence, and allows them, as his work pro
gresses, to peep into his sanctum and examine some of the matter
that is to enter into its compbsition. And so it comes that moat
of the Cheonicle's readers will readily recall, the fugitive little
bits of rustic scenery, the small marina pieces, the miniatures of
Lower Canadian portraiture, the folk and legendary lore of
Eastern Quebec, that Jonathan Oldbuck, with true Sam Slickian
erraintry has more or less irregularly contributed to these
columns. Most people nowadays find life too short to keep a
perfect collection of scrap books duly and daily indexed, and
many are compelled to pass over even such entrancing sketches
as those of Jonathan Oldbuck's explorations, when found is such
ephemeral form as contributions to the columns of the daily
press. Now that these old friends are to be had in a new dress
and amid new surroundings they are sure of a hearty welcome
from all who have enjoyed the pleasure of their acquaintance.
Arranged in the volume before us with much that is new and
original, these sketches take the reader through nearly all the
parishes and seaside resorts of the eastern section of the Pro-
riuce of Quebec on both shores of the St. Lawrence, as far

down as the Magdalen Islands in the Gulf, and also alongside
our far famed salmon streams, which give the Province so large
a revenue and might be made to yield a great deal more. The
descriptions of these latter are deeply interesting and add largely
to the interest attached to the book. There is also a picture of
Prince Edward Island and an entrancing sketch of "The Cruise
of the Hirondelle, " into which is woven some very interesting
legendary matter.
" Our readers will thus see that the major part of the book
is entirely new, while no portion of it has previously been
published in book form, if we except a couple of pages on a trip
up the Mistassini reprinted from our author's " Historical
Notes," and the fact that the same work contains an abridgment
ofthe first chapter of "Explorations," entitled "Quebec to
Montmorenci." " To all Lower Canadians who desire to become acquainted
with the hiatory of their own Province and the interesting legen
dary and sporting lore of its seaside resorts and of the principal
inland and riverside parishes of its most romantic localities, this
book will prove a veritable treasure house of information. It
makes delightful reading, and possesses the merit of being
instructive as well as agreeable. In Quebec and at our various
summer resorts it should prove the most successful holiday book
of the season. Its every page is replete with internal evidence
of the conscientious work which Mr. LeMoine is doing as one
of the toilers in the deep mines of historical and archseological
research, and of the diligence that he has displayed in sinking
his shaft of enquiry down to the very rock bottom of fact. It
has not diminished from the value of this work, that he presents
to his readers the remnants of traditionary lore from which he
has separated and rtfined the pure ore of historical truth. The
latter is rendered more valuable by contrast with the other,
while it by no means kills the romance in what is still tradi
tionary that it is shown to be of legendary origin. This histori
cal data is very correct, and there is compressed into small space
an immense amount of valuable matter, descriptive not only of
the localities explored by the author and of the folk lore con
nected witl them, but also of the men and events thrt have
made them famous. Future historians will have good cause to
thank Mr. LeMoine for his successful efforts in collecting so
vast and so valuable a store of material, — which left without a
compiler, would at an early date have disappeared from view or
died with those from whom our author derived it. " Jonathan
Oldbuck " will strike many as the best of Mr. LeMoine's books.
It is calculated also to interest a wider circle of readers than
any of his other works,"

THIE

EXPLORATIONS

JONATHAN OI.DBUCK, F. G. S. Q.
m
EASTERN LATITUDES

CANADIAN HISTORY— LEGENDS-SCENERY-SPORT

J. M. LeMOINE

Past President, of Royal Society of Canada, 1st section.
" " of Literary and Hiatorical Society of Quebec.
Cor. M. Massachusetts Historical Society.
Cor. M. New England Historical Geneological Society.
Cor. M. Historical Society of Wisconsin.
Membre de la Soci^t^ am^ricaine de France.
" " d'Histoire Diplomatique de France.
D^I^gu^ Regional de la Soci^t^ d'Ethnographie de France.
(Oopy right.)

PRINTED BT L. J. DEMEBS & FEftEE
Editors of " Le Canadian " and " L'Evenement."
1889

Entered according to Act ot Parliament, in 1889, by J. M.
LeMoiste, in the office of the Minister of Agriculture
Ottawa

Ca-4 5

To G. M. BAIBCEILD, Jr.,
of New- York,
For several years the Vice-President of
the Canadian Club of New- York and its
enthusiastic supporter ; whose able pen and
influence have ever been used to make better
known his native Province, Quebec among the
citizens of the Great Repubh'c.
Spencer Grange,
15th July, 1889.
J. M. LeMOINE.

INTEODUCTIOK

Thirty years ago, in accordance with a plan conceived at a
gathering of friends, I undertook what then was to me, and
what has been so, ever since-:— a labor of love : placing in a light
form, before a candid public the brightest as well as the darkest,
pages in Canadian annals with their various accompaniments.
Thus originated, the four series of the volumes, known under
the emblematic title of maple leaves.
The favor with which my first efiFuaions were received, led
me to delve deeper in the mine of Canadian history — musty
old letters — illegible M. S. accumulated on my library shelves.
There indeed, I found ample occupation for many long, but
pleasant winter evenings, forgetting the hours whilst the north
ern blast was howling, amidst my leafless oaks and old pines.
Indulgent readers have followed me, through the unfre
quented paths of Canadian history, archeology, legends, varied
by short sketches of Canadian scenery, flowers, birds, fishes, &c.
I now lay before them, with all its short comings, a familiar
itinerary of travel, by sea and by land, covering a score of years,
over the most picturesque portion of the province, to complete
the chain of works originally projected.
May it meet with the same cordial support extended to its
predecessors.

J. M. LeMOINE.

Sfenceb Grange,
PomimoQ Day, 1889.

QUEBEC TO MONTMORENCI.

Beawport — Ita history — Scenery — Warlike Chronicles;
Its Cataract.

I can recall a very pleasant hour, on a mellow September
afternoon, in 1886 — spent under the hospitable roof of
Herbert Molesworth Price, at Montmorenci Cottage. Our
antiquarian friend had gathered there some well known
Quebecers. I can remember the following : Owen Murphy,
Esq., ex-mayor of Quebec, the Hon. John Hearn, L. C.
and one or two others, to meet a distinguished son of the
Emerald Isle, on a visit to Quebec : Justin McCarthy,
Member ofthe Imperial Parliament, the brilliant historian of
" Our Own Times."
It was a pleasure to recapitulate to this eminent littera
teur, the historical incidents of the past which had marked
the locale of the seven miles' drive from the ancient capital,
to the renowned waterfall.
An excellent turnpike road leads past the Dorchester
bridge, (erected by Asa Porter, in 1789, and called after
Lord Dorchester, then Governor-General of Canada) —
through a double row of neat cottages and white farm
houses, to the foaming cataract of Montmorenci.
Previous to 1789, the St. Charles was crossed by a scow ;
and, at low water, by a ford, and, by a ferry, at high tide. An
incident of the blocade of Quebec, in 1775, connects this

— 6 —
ferry with the " first oblation of blood made upon the altar
of Liberty at Quebec " says Judge Henry, one of the annalists
ofthe war : (i)
"On the afternoon of Nov. i6th, " the guard was relieved.
Lieut. Simpson commanded it. His guard was composed
of two and twenty fine fellows of our company. When the
relief guard came, a Frenchman of most villainous appear
ance both as to person and visage, came to our Lieutenant,
with a written order from Colonel Arnold, commanding
him to accompany the bearer, who would be our guide
across the river St. Charles to obtain some cattle feeding
beyond it, on the account of Government. The order in
the first instance, on account of its preposterousness, was
-doubted, but upon a little reflection, obeyed. The call
" come on lads " was uttered. We ran with speed from the
guard-house some hundreds of yards over the plain to the
'mouth of the St. Charles where the ferry is. Near the ferry
was a large wind-mill and near it stood a small house re
sembling a cooper's shop. Two carts of a large size were
passing the ferry heavily laden with the household stuff, and
women and children of the townsmen flying from the
suburbs of St. Roque, contiguous to Palace Gate, to avoid
tlie terrible and fatal effects of war, The carts were already
in a large scow or flat-bottomed boat, and the ferrymen,
seeing us coming, were tugging hard at the ferry-rope to
get off the boat, which was aground, before we should
"arrive. It was no small matter, in exertion, to outdo people
of bur agility. Simpson, with his usual good humour, urged
the race, from a hope that the garrison would not fire upon
us, when in the boat with their flying townsmen. The
weight of our bodies and arms put the boat aground in good
earnest, Simpson vociferously urging the men to lift the
boat, directing them to place their goods in my arms, stand
ing on the bow. He ordered me to watch the flashes of the
cannon of the city near Palace Gate. Jumping into the
. (1) " An accurate and interesting account of the hardships and suf
ferings of that band of heroes who traversed the wilderness In the
campaign against Quebec, 1775," by John Joseph Henry, Esq., late
President of the Second Judicial District of Pennsylvania  Lancas-
ier, printed by William Greer, 1812."
Henry, according to the preface written to his daughter, was born

water mid-deep, all but Sergeant Dixon and myself, they
?were pushing, pulling and with handspikes attempting to
float the scow. One of the carts stood between Dixon and
myself; he was tugging at the ferry-rope. Presently " a
shot " was called ; it went wide of the boat, its mark. The
¦exertions of the party were redoubled, keeping an eye upon
the fown, the sun about setting in a clear sky, the view was
beautiful indeed, but somewhat terrific. Battlements like
these had been unknown to me. Our boat lay like a rock
in the water, and was a target at point blank shot about
three-quarters of a mile from Palace Gate, which issues into
St. Roque. I would have adored all the saints in the
kalendar if honor and their worships would have permitted
the transportation of my person a few perches from the spot
where it then stood, by the austere command of duty." The
result of the firing was that Dixon had a leg shot off, and
died of tetanus the next day, while the vile Frenchman,
-aghast and horror-stricken, fled from us to the city. He
turned out to be a spy purposely sent by Government to
decoy and entrap us, and he succeeded but too easily with
the vigilant Arnold. The blood of Dixon was the first
oblation made upon the altar of Liberty at Quebec.
One of the most conspicuous landmarks in this neighbor
hood towards the shore, at Za Canardihre (i), in a line
with Hedleyville, is Maizerets; a long two story farm
house, belonging to the Quebec Seminary, where their blue-
coated boys, each Thursday, spend their weekly holiday,
since time immemorial, walking back to the city with the
descending shades of evening and awakening the echoes of
the Beauport shore with their jolly old French songs : La
Claire Fontaine, — Par derrilre chez mon Pire, — En roulant,
¦ma Boule roulant, &c. ; the usher in charge, with his long
black cassock flowing to the night wind, merrily joining in
the chorus.

Nov. 4th, 1768, at Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Inthe fall of 1775—
being then 17 years of age, he joined a regiment of men raised in
Lancaster Co., for the purpose of joining Arnold, who at that time
was stationed in Boston.
(1) Would La, OanardUre have taken its name from being, in
former days, the resort of innumerable canards ?

._ 8 —
In 1778, the historic old mansion was rebuilt, after having
been ruthlessly burnt to the ground by Col. Benedict
Arnold's rude followers, in the fall of 1775.
In 1850, it was enlarged to its present size ; a diminutive
island, christened in July, 1852. St. Hyacinthe (i) — was
added in the centre of the sheet of water in rear of the
house, and communicating, at high tide, with the St. Law
rence. It is provided with row boats, canoes, &c.
This long, narrow pond, served in 1759, in heu of a
ditch, to one of General Montcalm's redoubts ; for a
succession of years, in summer, it has been the source of
unspeakable delight, on every weekly holiday, to the Semi
nary scholars — Crede experto.
On the 7th March, 1850, the pupils, in solemn conclave,
and after exhaustive discussion of several names proposed
— among which that of Montigny (after the great Bishop
Laval, Abb^ de Montigny, founder of the Petit S'eminaire
in 1668) came prominently to the front — decided that
their pleasant trysting place should be known to succeeding
generations as Maizerets.
Maizerets is the name of the venerable Superior of the
Quebec Seminary, during whose protracted tenure of office,
this valuable property was acquired by this educational
institution. Revd Louis Ango des Maizerets closed his
career, on the 22nd April, 1721, at the ripe age of 85 years,
loved and regretted.
The main road, overhung by wide-spreading elms, leads
past the lofty, turreted dome, extensive buildings and plea
sure grounds of the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, founded in
1845 ; first, in Col. Gugy's roomy stone stables, (2) adjoin-
(1) To commemorate the presence of the St. Hyacinthe College
boys, then ou a visit to the Quebec Seminary scholars.
(2) This commodious receptacle of Col. Gugy's stud was taken
down in 1887.

— 9 —
mg the Duchesnay Manor, by three of the leading physi
cians of Quebec, Doctors James Douglas, Joseph Morrin
and Joseph Fremont, and then transferred to the present
location. The east wing, occupied by the females, stands"
on the site of the old Ch&teau de Bonne, where Judge de
Bonne, an active politician in his day, and also a learned
jurist, resided for years, in the early part ofthe century. No
more suitable, nor healthy locality, could have been selected
as a home for the i,ooo unfortunates, bereft of reason, and
over whom the Provincial Government is expected to
watch. The streamlet, known as the Riviere des Taup&res,
winds through the leafy seclusion and flows under the
rustic, iron, suspension bridge of Glenalla, now Villa Mastai.
During our war with the United States, in 1812-14, this
diminutive, though deep brook was assigned as the western
limit of the paroled American prisoners — some 40 odd,
officers and privates — taken at Detroit, &c. ; among them,
Generals Hull, Winchester and Chandler ; they were at first
located in the ChAteau de Bonne. Capt. Mathew Bell's
cavalry escorted them to Quebec in the winter of 1813,
and they were placed in the house, No. 81, St Louis street
— in which the historian Hon. Wm. Smith expired, on 17th
December, 1847 — now the residence of Sheriff Chs. Alleyn.
Their fellow prisoner, taken at Queenston, Col. (afterwards
Genl. Winfield Scott), had the run of the city on parole.
Col. Scott won laurels in the Mexican war, and acquired, on
account of his bustling activity and love of display, the well
remembered sobriquet of old Puss and Feathers. The stately,
athletic Colonel, however lived under parole with Colonel
(afterwards Major General) Glasgow, the Commander ofthe
Quebec Garrison, in i8r3. In 1817, we shall find him again,
within our walls, an honored guest, under the hospitable
roof, at Marchmont, Grande Allee, of Sir John Harvey, who
subsequently became Governor of one of the British
Colonies.

— 10 —
¦ The eastern parole limit ofthe unhappy (i) warriors was
the second stream occuring on the road to the falls : le ruis-
seau de I'ours, Bear Creek, whose waters yet furnish motive
power to mills in the second range of Beauport, and, until a
few years back, to an extensive grist mill, now in ruins, form
erly owned by the late William Brown. Ini7S9, this stream
had, at this spot, steep banks, since solidly bridged over,
as portion of the public highway. The hollow formerly
existing was then designated, and frequently appears in
Chevalier Johnstone's and Capt. John Knox's diaries of the
siege, as the " ravine at Beauport. " What lively scenes
Benedict Arnold's myrmidons enacted in this locality during
the crucial winter of 1775-6?
Col. Jos. Bouchette mentions the erection here of a dis
tillery, about 1790, by the Hon. John Young.
A year or two later. Prince Edward — Her Majesty's father
— then a jolly Colonel of Fusiliers, twenty-four years of age^
might have been met, on bright summer mornings, trotting
his pair of Norman ponies over the Beauport road, from
Haldimand House to the city, with the fascinating Madame
de Saint Laurent at his side.
Haifa century later, in 1841, the Curk de Beauport, the
Revd. Abbd C. Chiniquy, the idol of the Beauport teato-
tellers, was raising the Temperance pillar which now, on the
north side ofthe road, attracts the attention of tourists.
Let us hie back to this historic ruisseau de I'ours.
What gave it its sporting name ?
I have a faint remembrance of a bear story, more thaa
two hundred years old, in which the local Nirarod, Seigneur

(1) The Quelec Mercury of 9th November, 1813, advertises for the-
capture of Abraham Walter, pilot, native of Grandfield, aged 24 years^
who had deserted from Beauport on the 6th November, 1813. Captaitt
Kempt, the agent for the prisoners of war, offers for his apprehension
one guinea reward over and above the Provincial reward allowed in
such cases.

— 11 —
Giffard, whilst lying perdu for wild geese — one spring — on
the sedgy banks of this river, is stated to have spied a huge
bear roaming in the neighborhood, mayhap in quest of the '
seigniorial mutton. Gaunt, tired, possibly unconscious of
evil intent, Bruin was la,pping the crystal draught of the
ruisseau. To substitute in his long duck gun, slugs, for goose,
shot, was the affair of an instant for the sporting Laird, and
lo ! Bruin's brave spirit was wafted to where all good
bears go !
Let us cross Bear Creek close to the front door of the
Beauport Manor and ask about the Seigneur. " Who was
the first Seigneur of this flourishing village ? " I hear you
say —
Here is what we read in history :
Seigneur Robert Giffart or Giffard, Sieur de Beauport, a
native of Perche, leftold for New France, in 1627. Later
on, we find him an English prisoner of war. Taken on
board of Rocmont's fleet, he it was who gave the parish its
name, and, as its first Seigneur, watched over its feeble
beginnings. We shall find him a practising surgeon at
Quebec, in 1634 : the calling at that distant time must
have been a bit of a sinecure.
He applied for and was granted by the Company of New
France, the Seigniory of Beauport, on the 14th January,
1634, according to a Parliamentary return printed in 1852 ;
on the 31st December, 1635, says Colonel Bouchette.
Giffard had several sons and daughters ; two of the latter
married the brothers Juchereau, the sires of the warlike
clan of Duchesnays who occupied the Beauport manor for
nearly two centuries.
Robert Giffard, a man of importance in his day, was
elected Church" Warden, at Quebec, in 1646. It is recorded
that the Jesuit Fathers selected his house, at Beauport, to-
celebrate their first mass. The lettered and sporting Escu-

— 12 —
lapius died on the 14th April, 1668, and was buried in the
cemetery at Beauport.
Let us now knock at the chief entrance of the Manor I
Had we, with us, Jean Guion, we might possibly have a
chance of meeting his worthy contemporary, Frangois
Boull^, Seignior Giffard's faithful farmer ofthe 14th March,
1634. Alas ! Both are enjoying their long rest, for the last
two hundred and fifty years, in yonder rustic necropolis.
But I was forgetting that of the venerable Duchesnay
Manor some disjointed ruins are all that now remain, of a
residence endeared to Canadians for having been the head
quarters of the chivalrous Marquis of Montcalm during the
thrilling summer of 1759. The circumstance of the sojourn
of the French General, at that Manor, had so aroused the
cupidity of the Quebec treasure-seekers after the hurried
departure of the Gallic legions, that cellars and outer-courts
were more than once dug up for gold and silver, supposed
to have been concealed and forgotten there, prior to their
hurried retreat. These Doustirswivels might have saved
themselves rauch labor, many midnight vigils, suffumiga-
tions and incantations, under suitable planetary influence
for searches, — with or without " a hand of glory, by the
light of a taper, manufactured from the fat of an executed
murderer, — when the clock strikes twelve at midnight " —
had they chosen to bear in raind, that during the drooping,
closing years of French rule, the chief circulating medium
at Quebec was card money, supplemented with Bigot's
Bills on the French treasury — destined to be dis
honored. Some time after the destruction by fire of the old Manor,
in 1879, a mysterious inscription was unearthed from the
ruins. Mrs. Gugy, the owner of the property kindly for
warded it to the President of the Literary and Historical
Society for examination. It gave rise to a very lively discus
sion in the English and French press, in which the leading

— 13 —
Quebec antiquaries took part : — Rev. abbd Verreau, Count
D'Orsonnens and others :
THE SEIGNIORIAL MANOR OF THE FIRST
SEIGNEUR OF BEAUPOT, 1634.

(To the Editor of the Morning Chronicle.)
Dear Sir, — " I have pleasure in laying, with your permis
sion, before the members of the Literary and Historican
Society, through your columns, the enclosed communicatiol-
received this day, with the plate and inscription to which it
telates, from the widow of the late Col. B. C. A. Gugy, of
Darnoc, Beauport. It sets forth the recovery, from the
Beauport Manor House, of a lead plate, affording a writen
record of the laying of the foundation stone, on the 25th
July, 1634, of the histoiical homestead of the fighting
Seigneurs of Beauport, — the Giffard, the Juchereau and the
Duchesnay. The fac simile and description of the inscrip
tion, on comparing with the lead plate itself, forwarded for
examination by Mrs. Gugy, are so accurate, that they leave
little for me to say. Nay, I should lie inclined to detect
here the hand of an antiquarian, had I not strong suspicions
that Mrs. Gugy's amanuensis in this case, is her clever
daughter. Miss Gugy.
" The massive old pile alleged to have been the head
quarters of the Marquis of Montcalm, during the siege of
Quebec, in 1759, and in which many generations of
Duchesnays and some of Col. Gugy's children were born,
became the prey of flames in 1879, 't'S said, by the act of a
vandal, an incendiary ; thus perished the most ancient
stronghold of the proud feudal Lairds of Beauport — the
stone manor of Surgeon Robert Giffard — the safe retreat
against the Iroquois of the warlike Juchereau Duchesnays,
one of whose ancestors, in 1645, ^^"i married Maiie Gifart
or Giffard, a daughter of the bellicose Esculapius from
Perche, France, — Surgeon Robert Giffard. Grim and defiant
the antique manor, with its high-peaked gables, stood in
front of the dwelling Col. Gugy had erected, at Darnoc, in

— 14 —
1865 : it rather intercepted the view to be had from this
spot, of Quebec. One of the memorable landmarks of the
past, it has furnished a subject for the pencil of Col. Benson,
J. Lossing, author of the " American Revolution," and
" Life of Washington," who, during his visit to Quebec, in
July, 1858, sketched it with others, for Harper's Magazine,
where it appeared, over the heading " Montcalm's Head
quarters, Beauport," in the January number, 1859, page 180.
" Whilst the deciphering of some ofthe letters I.H.S. —
M.I.A. at the top of the inscription are likely to exercise
the ingenuity of our Oldbucks and Monkbarns, to whose
intelligent care I shall leave them, the plate itself and its
inscription will furnish to the student of history an indefea
sible proof of the exact spot, and of the date, when and
where stood the oldest of our seigniorial manors, — that of
Robert Giffard, on the margin of the ruisseau de Pours, at
Beauport, in 1634.
J. M. LeMoine, President.
Literary and Historical Society's Booms, Sth AprU, 1881.
N. B. — Mrs. Gugy has kindly consented to leave on our
table, during the week, for the inspection of the curious, this
suggestive old plate.

J. M. LeMoine, Esquire, President Literary aixd Historical
Society, Qiiebec :
Beauport, 26th March, 1881.
" The tablet found in the Manor House of Beauport by
some workmen, last summer, and only recently restored to
the proprietors, is a circular plate of lead or pewter much
injured by the fire which consumed the building.
" Owing to the unwillingness ofthe men concerned to give
any information, it is difficult to learn much as to the where
abouts in the building it was found, nor what other articles
may have accompanied it, but as far as can be ascertained

— 15 —
this oval plate (about ^ of an inch in thickness) was rolled
up and contained a few coins and some document ; the first
cannot be traced and are spoken of as " quelques sous; " the
latter, they say, crumbled into dust at once.
"The inscription as well as can be deciphered, is as
follows : — I.H.S. M.I.A,
LAN 1634 LE NTE
25 IVILET,IE.BTB-PLA
PREMIERE P.O. GIFART
SEI&NE VR.DE . OE. LIE V
"This is rudely butdeeplycutinto the plate,and underneath
may be seen in patches traces of a fainter etching, part of
which may be a coat of arms, but this is uncertain ; under
neath can be seen a heart reversed, with flames springing from
it upwards. All these are enclosed in a larger heart, point
downwards. " The enclosed rough simile may give an idea of the
lettering at the top of the circle, the plate itself being about
nine inches in diameter.
(With Mrs. Gugy's compliments.)
" Darnoc, 26th March, 1881.

THE BEAUPORT MANOR INSCRIPTION.

(To the Editor of the Morning Chronicle. )
" Whilst regretting the loss of the coins and dry-as-dust
document accompanying the inscription of the Beauport
Manor, on account of the light it might have thrown on this
remote incident of Canadian history, let us examine the
case as it stands.

— 16 —
" This rude inscription of 25th July, 1634, gives priority
as to date to the Beauport Manor over any ancient structure
extant in Canada this day. The erection of the Manor
would seem to have preceded by three years the foundation
of the Jesuits' Sillery residence, now owned by Messrs.
Dobell and Beckett, which dates of July, 1637. Who
prepared the inscripiion ? Who engraved the letters ? Who
cut on the lead, the figure ofthe "flaming heart?" The stars?
Are they heraldic ? What did they typify ? Did the plate
come out, ready prepared from France ? Had the Acade-
mie des inscriptions, etc., or any other academie, any hand in
the business ? No for obvious reasons.
" The lead-plate was imbedded in solid masonry. It is
too rude to be the work of an engraver. Could it have been
designed by Surgeon Giffard, the Laird of Beauport, and cut
on the lead-plate by the scribe and savant of the settlement,
Jean Guion (Dion ?) whose penmanship in the wording of
two marriage contracts, dating from 1636, has been brought
to light by an indefatigable searcher of the past — the Abbd
Ferland ? probably.
" But if the lettered Beauport stone mason, who never
became a Hugh Miller, whatever were his abihties, did
utihze his talents in 1634 to produce a durable record, in
order to perpetuate the date of foundation of this manor, he
subsequently got at loggerheads with his worthy seignior,
probably owing to the litigious tastes which his native Perche
had installed in hira. Perche, we all know, is not very distant
from Normandy, the hot-bed offends and litigation, and
might have caught the infection from this neighborhood.
" Governor Montmagny, in the space of eight short years,
had been called on to adjudicate on six controversies which
had arisen between Giffard and his vassals, touching boun
daries and seigniorial rights, though the learned historian
Ferland, has failed to particularize, whether among those
controverted rights, was included the Droit de chapons and
IDroit du seigneur; could the latter unchaste, but cherished
right of some Scotch and German feudal lords, by a misap
prehension of our law, in the dark days of the colony, have
been claimed by such an exacting seignior as M. de Giffard ?
One hopes not.
" Bethatasit may,thestone mason and 5awa;z^, Jean Guion
had refused to do feudal homage to " Monsieur de Beau
port," and on the 30th July, 1640, six years after the date

— 17 —
of the inscription, under sentence rendered by Governor de
Montmagny, he was made to do so.
" Francis Parkman, on the authority of the historian
Ferland, will tell us how Jean Guion, vassal of Giffard,
Seignior of Beauport, on that memorable 30th July, r64o,
performed the stately ceremony of Foi et hommage, at this
very manor to which the inscription refers :
" In the presence of a notary, Guion presented himself
at the principal door of the Manor House of Beauport.
Having knocked, one BouU^, farmer of Giffard opened the
door, and in reply to Guion's questions if the seignor was at
home, replied that he was not, but that he, Boull6, was
empowered to receive acknowledgments of faith and homage
from the vassals in his name. " After the which reply "
proceeds the act, " the said Guion, being at the principal
door, placed himself on his knees on the ground, with head
bare, and without sword or spurs, and said three times these
words : " Monsieur de Beauport, Monsieur de Beauport,
" Monsieur de Beauport, I bring you the faith and homage
" which I am bound to bring you on account of my fief Du
" Buisson, which I hold as a man of faith of your Seigniory
" of Beauport, declaring that I offer to pay my seigniorial
" and feudal dues in this season, and demanding of you to
" accept me in faith and homage as aforsaid." (Old Regime,
p. 246-7.)
" Who will decipher the I.H.S. — M.I.A letters at the top
of the plate ? Is there no descendant ofthe haughty Seignior
of Beauport, Rob. Giffard, to give us his biography, and tell
of his sporting days ; of the black and grey ducks, brant,
widgeon, teal, snipe, and curlew, &c., which infested the
marshy banks of the stream on the Ruisseau de I' Ours, on
which he had located, first his shooting box, and afterwards
his little fort or block-house, against Iroquois agression ? Dr
Giffard was a keen sportsman, tradition repeats. Did the
locality get the name of Canardilre on account of the
Canards, the ducks, he had bagged in his day? Who will
enlighten us on all these points ? "
J. 0.
Quebec, Sth April, 1881.
Query. — Would I.H.S. stand for Jesua Homvnmn Salvator t and
M.I.A. for Mwria-Josephus-Anna ? — the Holy Family— asks Dr. W.
iMarsden,

— 18 -
The Beauport strand was privileged, by its proximity to
Quebec to play a conspicuous part in the numerous sieges
which have beset the old city.
There, in 1690, 1759, 1760, 1775, the invader left in
marks of blood, his foot-prints. Some of Canada's most noble
sons found there a glorious death, others a no less glorious
record of services rendered to their country.
During the occupation by the English of Quebec by the
Kirkes, 1628-33, Beauport, with the exception of the Ferme
des Anges, had little to do with these unauthorised con
querors, as peace had been proclaimed between England
and France, when the Kirkes took Quebec. It was very
different in 1690 — Mere^uchexenn, Monseignat, Walley and
Davis, have each a stirring tale to tell. Admiral Sir William
Phips' abortive attempt to capture the old rock, on the i6th
October, 1690, whilst his second in command, Major John
Walley, landed and headed a detachment on the Beauport
flats, has brought out creditably the successful and stout
resistance offered by Count de Frontenac, " speaking from
the mouth of his cannon, " and whilst his lieutenants, Pre
vost, Longueuil, de Ste. H^l^ne, at the head, of his regulars
and Beaupr^ and Lorette volunteers, met and routed Major'
Walley's Puritan Boston host.
What an exciting discovery it must have been for the
sentinels on the Sault-au-Matelot batteries, when they, at
day break, on the i6th October, 1690 — spied the slowly
moving lights of the Massachusetts fleet, thirty-four armed
vessels, gliding past the Point of Orleans, and casting anchor
in view of Quebec, thronged with soldiery,— in their French
eyes, merciless heretics, who, " it had been reported, meant
to kill them all, after cutting off their ears to make neck
laces " ?
A grand spectacle awaited Admiral Phips' entrance in our
¦port. As Parkman well remarks : " One of the grandest
scenes on the western continent opened upon his sight. The

— 19 —
wide expanse of waters, the lofty promontory beyond, and
the opposing heights of Levi, the cataract of Montmorenci,
the distant range of the Laurentian Mountains, the warlike
rock with its diadem of walls and towers, the roofs of the
Lower Town clustering on the strand beneath, the Chateau
St. Louis perched at the brink of the cliff, and over it the
white banner spangled y^ith fleurs-de-lis, flaunting defiance
in the clear autumn air. "
The dramatic account of Admiral Phips' repulse has been
too often given and too well, for rae to attempt to repeat it
here. I shall confine myself to a bare mention of a few inci
dents which happened during the week of alarm, which
marked the operations of Major Walley, on the Beauport
beaches, in his vain attempt to cross the St. Charles at the
ford and assail the city in reverse. Walley's van, though
brave levies of Massachusetts fishermen and farmers, had
no mean enemy to contend with. In one ofthe engagements,
Frontenac in person sallied forth at the head of looo
soldiers — Montreal, Three Rivers ^nd Quebec men — ^ to
wait on the south side of the St. Charles, near the ford, for
the appearance of the invaders, whilst Baron de Longueuil
and his chivalrous brother, LeMoyne de Ste. Hdl^ne, headed
the Canadian Militia. Both were wounded, Ste. H6l6ne
fatally. He was buried on the 4th December, 1690, in the
Hotel-Dieu cemetery, at Quebec. His two other brothers,
LeMoyne de Bienville and LeMoyne de Maricour, won
laurels in this memorable campaign, whilst the sturdy
Seignior of Beauport, Juchereau de Saint Denis, more than
sixty-four years of age; in the act of leading his armed
peasants, lost an arm. For his bravery, the French Monarch
awarded him a patent of nobility. He was more fortunate
than his companion-in-arms, the Chevalier de Clermont, an
officer of distinction, who was killed.
The Boston invaders, on re-embarking, had been com
pelled to leave behind 5 cannons, roo lbs. gunpowder, and

— 20 —
40 or 55 cannon balls. A detachment of armed peasants
from Beauport and the adjoining parishes, aided by 40
scholars from the St. Joachim Seminary, led by le Sieur
Cafri, a fighting inhabitant, of Ste. Anne du Petit Cap,
seized and held the guns, in spite of the detachment sent
from the fleet to recapture them. Governor de Frontenac
was so well pleased with their spirited conduct, that he pre
sented one of the captured guns to the Seminary scholars
and another to the Sieur CartL (i)
The little Church, in process of construction in the Lower
Town Market Place, since 1688, and still in existence, was
named, in commemoration of Phip's defeat. " Notre-Dame-
de-la- Vtctoire" and King Louis XIV ordered a handsome
medal to be struck, in memory of it — the well-known Kebeka
Liberata Medal.
The occupation of Beauport and adjoining parishes round
Quebec, by Arnold and Montgomery's New Englanders, in
1775-6) gave rise in this localitv to many strange incidents,
unrecorded by the general historian. The following, I
gather, from an account recently furnished me : —
" Seignior Duchesnay, at Beauport, in 1775 — His farmer,
Vincent Giroux; current prices of horses, cows, sheep,
chickens, turkeys, geese, that fall, Jeremiah Duggan,
the hair-dresser : the part he played in the blockade of
Quebec.
" The following document occurs among the family
records ofthe late Henry F. Duchesnay, Esq., M, P., for
Beauce. Mr. Duchesnay was a lineal descendant of that
fighting seignior of Beauport, Juchereau Duchesnay, who
lost his arm, in 1690, whilst repelling the invasion of Phips
and who received from the French King, letters of noblesse
for his meritorious conduct.
It purports to be a true copy of a claim made by Seignior
Duchesnay, in the fall of 1776, on the Government for
(1) (Cours d!Eistoire du Canada. Ferland.)

— 21 —
indemnity for losses suffered whilst upholding the King's
authority. The losses are on farm produce, &c. The claim
is sworn to before Hon. Thomas Dunn, a loyal, official of
the period. The Caldwells, Allsops and others had preferred
similar claims for which His Excellency, Guy Carleton, had
them indemnified. The document is curious as indicating
the current rate of prices of several objects still in general
use. A rapacious Irish hair-dresser, rejoicing in the narne
of Jeremiah Duggan, was a leading figure in this raid on
the Tories, as the Loyalists were then styled.
. " The Duchesnay stone manor, the head - quarters of
General de Montcalm during the siege of 1759, after being
the family seat of the Duchesnays for nearly two centuries,
became about 1845 the property of the late Cplonel B. C,
A. Gugy.
Statemeiit qf tfie losses to Mr. fluchesnay iy ffie. Ant^eri-
C(ni invasion, ,m 1775.
" Vincent Giroux, farmer, residing in a house belonging^
to Mr. Duchesnay, Seignior of Beauport,declares under oath
that at the end of November, 1775, there came to Mr.
Duchesnay's residence at Beauport, a band of about fifty
armed rebels, commanded, as they asserted, by .osne Jere
miah Duggan, also present.
" That the said Duggan, who was well known to depo-
nent,entered the house, asked for eatables and told deponent
that he (Duggan) knew that deponent had fattened a cow —
that he had killed pigs ; and that, at the instant, Duggan
declared himself master of the house.
"That on this day Duggan and comrades seized all
articles of furniture- — removed them to the garret of the
house, locked the door ofthe garret and took the key away.
" That the said Duggan visited other farm-houses, leaving
other rebels in charge of M. Duchesnay's house, forbidding
them to interfere with the garret, where the furniture was.
" That this guard remained at this house — but that
other parties of rebels succeeding one another, broke into
the garret and carried away the furniture stored i there, a
few days before Christmas.
" That from date of entry of the rebels, in the said
house — that is from the end of November, 1775, to the

— 22 —
beginning of May last, (1776), they took the hve stock,
house furniture, grain, hay and other objects belonging to
the said Mr. Duchesnay. "
condensed list.
I. — A gray horse, six-year-old, with a
cushioned cariole, worth at least $52,
Mr. Duchesnay having instructed de
ponent not to let the horse alone sell
under $40  313 livres.
2. — Another black horse, for which Mr.
Duchesnay wanted $30  , . 180 "
3. — An old cariole and harness  30 "
4. — Eight oxen worth at least $20 each . . . 960 "
5; — Four milch cows worth at least $8 each. 192 "
6. — Fifteensheep worth at least $1.50 each. 135
g.- — Three young pigs worth at least $1.50
each  27 "
10. — About 230 lbs. fresh pork, worth about
I o sous per lb  115 "
r I. — 100 boards and deals  40 "
12. — 1,000 cedar pickets for fencing  24 "
12 J. — Two fowling pieces  14 "
-1 2. ^One trunk with lock and key worth. .. 36 "
i3i. — A box locked {contents unknown) .... 9 "
-14. — A roasting apparatus, new  24 "
15. — A stove pipe  18 "
16. — A woollen tapistry (tapisserie) dama
ged, &c  150
17. — A green serge curtain  12 "
18. — Nine easy cane chairs worth$r. 50 each., 65 "
19. — Twelve straw seated chairs, new  18 "
20.— Twelve straw seated chairs, old  12 "
2 r. — 'Six wooden chairs  9 "
22. — Two small tables with drawers and a
large one with its cover  9 «
23. — A bed cover of green serge, ornamented
with velvet  18 "
24- — A piece of coarse Canadian linen, about
20 ells, worth 30 sols per ell  30 "

— 23 —
35- — A copper pan  6 livres.
26. — A gridiron  2.8 "
27. — Two kitchen andirons  4.10 "
28. — A skewer for roasting  1.4 "
29. — An iron stove shovel  r . 10 "
^o. — Twenty tumblers  12 "
3r. — Eight dishes of fine delf  30 "
32. — Three dozen tureens  7.4 "
3.3. — Four turkeys, 16.10 — four geese, 6
livres  22.10 "
34. — Seven poulets, 7 livres — 15 pairs of
pigeons, 18 livres  25 "
35. — A new bed mattrass, on whicR Mr.
Duchesnay slept  48 "
36. — Twenty panes of glass broken, 12 livres
— 22 bags, 40 livres  52 "
37. — About 80 bundles of oats — 4 to the
minot — to 20 minots of oats, 30 sols. . 30 "
38. — 600 bundles of Timothy hay, for which
$8 per hundred had been offered ... . 288 "
Total  2,858.2 livres.
The old record very clearly discloses the worth, in
1775, of numerous house utensils, cattle and farm produce,
some of which have not apparently much increased in value
after a hundred years. Hay does not, each fall, fetch more
than $8 per hundred bundles at Beauport ; horses seem
liigher in value. Turkeys and geese are a trifle more in
price. The 15 couple of domestic pigeons " lifted " by
Jeremiah Duggah's pals, from the manor, recall by their
presence, the old feudal privilege of the seigneur, to keep
pigeons — le droit de colombier — as Lord of the Manor ;
an this case might have been added, Sic vos, non vobis. The
Beauport andirons may yet, possibly, be doing duty in
some antique New England home, with the picture of the
" Mayflower " over the mantlepiece. Jeremiah and his
hungry gang of raiders, bent on having their fat goose for
Christmas, 1775, with great foresight inspected, and with
success, the seigniorial larder ; carrying away the kitchen

— 24 —
utensils ; a roasting apparatus, a skewer, a gridiron (without
even asking for" the ldan"ofit) and a goodly supply of
cedar pickets, to do the coolcing and broil the steak.
On the 6th May following, the English frigate " Lowest-
toff," rounding Pointe Levi, was the signal for the hasty
departure of the unlucky Sons of Independance andthe
occasion for loud English cheers, when the standard of
Britain was run up the flagstaff on Cape Diamond. Hurrah I
A central figure in the parish of Beauport, in full view of
the city and ofthe green Isle of Orleans, stands out : the
Roman Catholic temple of worship. The diminutive struc
ture of 1759, has been replaced by the large and handsome
edifice of our own day.
Who could tell of the fervent orisons and daily prayers
sent up to Heaven, during the ever memorable summer of
1759, in the cherished fane, to avert the war of extermina
tion, of which the colony was threatened? It adjoined
Montcalm's headquarters ; its Steeple, on the 28th June,
1759) was selected by Governor de Vaudreuil as a safe and
suitable observatory from which he could feast his eyes on
the sure destruction of the English fleet, then lying, since
the 23rd June, at anchor near the Island of Orleans. Mon
sieur Deslouches, a French naval officer, had designed and
equipped at great cost, several " infernal engines " to wit ;
five fire-ships and two large rafts, which he had sent down
at ten o'clock that night from the Lower Town, with the
ebb, to wipe out the British squadron of 60 ships ?
Capt. John Knox, of the 43rd, an eye witness and an accu
rate observer, in his Journal of the Siege, pronounces the
display the grandest fire works, conceivable. Though, accord
ing to Montcalm, who had no faith in them, they had cost
" a million, " they turned out worse than a failure. Some
having been set on fire too soon, grounded before reaching
the fleet ; others, were courageously taken in tow by the
fearless British tars, in their boats, and run ashore, where

— 25 —
their rigging and hulls blazed away until the morning " with
no other harm, says Parkman, than burning alive one of
their own captains and six or seven of his sailors who failed
to escape in their boats. " Knox relates how the " air and
adjacent woods reverberated with sonorous shouts andi
frequent repetitions of alls well, from our gallant seamen on
the water. "
The whole of that night scene evidently was one of dismal
and appalling grandeur.
What would you give for the prospects of promotion in
the French Navy, of Deslouches, the originator of this costly
and primitive torpedo experiment ?
Governor de Vaudreuil, dejected and crestfallen, hurried
back to his doomed city.
Parkman vividly recalls this incident :
" There was an English outpost at the Point of Orleans ;
and about eleven o'clock the sentries descried through the
gloom the ghostly outlines ofthe approaching ships. As they
gazed, these mysterious strangers began to dart tongues of
flame ; fire ran like lightning up their masts and sails, and
then they burst out like volcanoes. Filled as they were with
pitch, tar and every manner of combustible, mixed with
fireworks, bombs, grenades, and old cannon, swivels and
muskets loaded to the throat, the effect was terrific. The
troops at the Point, amazed at the sudden eruption, the din
of the explosions and the showers of grape shot, that rattled
among the trees, lost their wits and fled.
" The blazing dragons hissed and roared, spouted sheets
of fire, vomited smoke in black, pitchy volumes and vast
illumined clouds, and shed their infernal glare on the dis
tant city, thetents of Montcalm, and the long red lines of
the British army, drawn up'in array of battle, lest the French
should cross from their .encampments to attack them in the
confusion." (Montcalm and Wolfe, vol. II, p. 211.)
The Montmorenci, falls are still known to old French
peasants as La Vache (the Cow) on account of the resem
blance of their foaming waters to milk, though others have
attributed the name to the noise, like the bellowing of a

— 26 —
cow, which is made by the roaring torrent pending the pre
valence of certain winds. They present, when swollen by
spring floods or by autumnal rains, a most imposing spec
tacle. The volume of water, though much less than that
of Niagara, falls from a much greater height, viz ; 275 feet.
When the sun hghts up ils brilliant, prismatic colors, the
undulating mass of foam, rainbow-tinted, assumes hues of
marvellous brightness. Beauport's wondrous cataract may
be seen under various attractive aspects.
I have ridden back from it to the storied city, at sunset,
watching entranced, the departing orb of day, shedding its
golden rays on the quaint, old metal-sheathed roofs of
Quebec, and the city windows looking westward ; the whole
panorama, a realm of fairy land lit up with the quivering
sheen of diamonds.
I also remember, on a bright, starry night amid-winter,
contemplating in dreamy, rapt silence, a novel spectacle,
seldom vouchsafed to Quebecers. The icy peak or cone
at the foot of the Cataract, had been scooped out by an
enterprising city restaurateur, to represent a vast, glittering
palace, provided with icy couches, seats, &c., a cold, bright,
but fitting throne for the Frost King, illumined by weird
Chinese lamps, reminding one of Cowper's glowing descrip
tion of imperial Catherine's Russian ice palace of 1787 :
Silently as a dream, the fabric rose,
Ice upou ice, the well adjusted parts
Lamps gracefully disposed, aud of all hues.
Illumined every side 
So stood the bright prodigy 
Convivial table and commodious seat 
A scene of evanescent glory, once a stream
And soon to glide into a stream again
(The Task, book V., 127),

— 27 —
About a mile and a half from the bridge, occurs the
geological curiosities, denominated the Natural Steps, adja- '
cent to cascades of three or four yards in depth.
" The Rocks are so-called because they exhibit," says,
Lossing, " a series of rectangular gradations resembling
stairs. They are composed ofshaly limestone and supposed
by some, to have been formed by the abrasion of the waters,
and by others, to be original in their shapes. For an eighth
of a mile the river rushes in irregular cascades among these
rocks, in a very narrow and tortuous channel, its surface
white with foam, and here and there sending up fleeces of
spray. On the bold, rocky bank we sat, watching the rushing
waters, and made an early dinner of sandwitches."
Sweetser adds that fine specimens of trilobites have been
found in the vicinity.
Over the strand at the foot of the fall, adjoining the vast
saw mills of the Messrs. Hall & Price, a muddy beach of
more than a mile broad extends at low tide. You can now
at this spot hear the whi.stle of the Quebec, Montmorenci a,nd
Charlevoix Raihvay conveying its myriads of halt and
rheumatic pilgrims to La Bonne Sainte Anne, a cherished
shrine, fourteen miles lower down. Very different scenes
greeted here the eye on a sultry July afternoon (the 31st in
1759) ; a deadly encounter between Britton and Gaul. Read
the oft, told tale in Garneau and Parkman. Wolfe paid ¦
dearly for his ill-timed and rash assault, from an unprotected
position on the beach : attempting to scale the wet, per
pendicular heights flanked with earth works, protected
by woods, bristling with cannon and crowned by expert
French-Canadian marksmen. He lost nearly 500 men,
in killed and wounded, including those scalped by
the Hurons and other savages. The dauntless English
leader and his rash grenadiers made a grave mistake and
the heroic Frenchraan Montcalm failed to make the most

— 28 —
of a victory which the tide and elements brought to an
unsatisfactory close, (i)

Apart from the historic interest, the Beauport heights
and beaches are calculated to awaken, as being the arena
of the great struggle between Wolfe and Montcalm, during
the whole summer of 1759, it is a locality (2) noted for its
grand river views and striking scenery. As early as 1782,
they have attracted the attention of distinguished strangers.
That year we find General Frederic Haldimand, the Gover
nor-General of Canada, located there, and extending the
hospitality of his pretty lodge to the beautiful (3) Baroness
Riedesel, the wife of the Brunswick General who had come
over, in 1776, to fight under General Burgoyne, the rebel
lious New Englanders.

(1) A full account of the siege of Quebec and battle of Beauport
Flats, appears in the Maple Leaves, for ] 864, and in Quebec, Fast and
Present. (2) The Montmorenci Falls — whose extreme height is 275 feet —
supply the motive power to the electric works, which light up the city
of Quebec, seven miles distant. This stupendous water power is also
being made available for the working of a new and extensive cotton
faofory, in process of construction at the foot of the cataract, at a
cost of $25,000 — It will give employment to 1000 operatives : its
< hief promoters are : A. F. Gault, B. Whitehead, Morrice, of Mont
real, and H. M. Price, of Quebec.
(3) Frederica vou Massow, afterwards Baroness de Eiedesel, was
born in Germany, in 1746.
Her father, Herr von Massow, held under Frederick II, a high
military command and was the parent of several children.
At the age of sixteen, in 1762, the lovely "blue-eyed maiden " as
described iu the Memoirs, married Baron de Eiedesel, a dashing
captain in a regiment of Foot,— subsequently placed, in 1776, at the
head ofthe contingent of 4,000 Brunswickers, forming part of the
16 900 furnished to England, out of 20,000 promised, by treaty, on
behalf of the smaller German States — to serve in the impending
conflict between Great Britain and her North American provinces :
Wincli ended in the Declaration of Independence, in 1783, by the
inauguration of the JlfoA;? republic. '
BrunswW..^ri''/"°^' ^'I®' ^'^ ^^^^ ^^^'^^'^ «* Quebec, with his
Brunswickers, from on board H, M.'s frigate Pallas; his wife and

— 29 —
This brave, pure and beautiful woman thus describes her
visit to Montmorenci Falls : — " During the summer of
1782, we passed several weeks very pleasantly at Quebec.
Gen. Haldimand had built himself a house upon the hill,
which he called Montmorency, after the great and famous
¦waterfall of that name. He took us (Baron Riedesel and
the Baroness) over to his house. It was his pet and cer
tainly nothing could equal its situation. This celebrated
cataract of the Montmorency plunges down from a height
of one hundred and sixty-three feet (Bouchette says 251
feet) with a frightful din, through a cleft between two moun
tains. While the General was pointing out to us this magnificent
spectacle, I accidentaly let fall the remark, that it must be
splendid to have a little house directly over the cataract.
Three weeks after he again guided us to the fall. We made
our way up the steep path and over pieces of rock that were
united by little bridges after the manner of Chinese gardens.
When we at last reached the top, he gave me his hand to
assist me into a little building which hung directly over the
fall itself. He was amazed at my courage, when, without a
moment's hesitation, I immediately entered it. But I assured

three children, being allowed to follow him, and reaching our shores
— not as the Baron had fondly hoped in the following autumn, but
merely and much to his andher regret, on the Uth June, 1777,in the
frigate Blonde.
Madame Eiedesel, seems to have united in au eminent degree the
devotion of a true woman, to the courage of a heroine, during the
incredible hardships — dangers and hair-breath escapes, of the field
of battle — in captivity ^.^ori sea — on land; which marked this pro
tracted and bloody campaign ; her sweet manner — graces of person —
her fortitude, apparently lent her a charmed life, amidst scenes of
slaughter, disease and deaith.
It is that portion of the adventurous qareer of this singularly
gifted lady, during her sojourn at Quebec, in 1777, and again on her
return in 1782, as disclosed in her Letters and Journal, translated
from the German, by the American historian William L. Stone,
author of the "Life of Sir William Johnston," that now engages our
attention.

— 30 —
him that I was not in the least afraid, when accompanied
by such a careful raan as hiraself. He showed us how the
house was fastened in such a situation. The manner of it
was this : he had caused eight strong rafters to be extended
from the bank, some distance over the chasm, through which
the cataract plunged down. There, beams rested for a third
of their length upon the rocks, and upon them the house
stood. It was a frightful but majestic sight, nor could one
remain in the house long, for the din was horrible. Above
this fall they catch very fine trout, which, however, once
cost an English officer his life. He was springing from one
rock to another, in order to catch them, when his foot
slipped from under hira, and he was carried away by the
strength of the current ; nothing was ever found of him
afterwards but a few mangled limbs.
" We were also at this fall once in the winter, on which
occasion the various and strange figures made by the ice,
afforded a magnificent spectacle. " — (Memoirs of Baroness
Riedesel, pages 203-4.)
A pjrtion of the lodge incorporated in the more modern
mansion exists to this day. It is mentioned and advertised
for sale in the old Quebec Gazette, on the ist Deceraber,
1791, as " the elegant villa of the late Sir Frederic Haldi
mand, K. B., delighttully situated near the Falls of Mont
morency, with the farm house, &c., " and so it is.
His Royal Highness, Edward, Augustus, fourth son of
George III, and father of our beloved Sovereign, subse
quently Field Marshal, the Duke of Kent, had landed at
Quebec on the Sth August, 1791, frora H. M. S. ships
" Ulysses " and " Resistance, " from Gibraltar, in command
of the 7th or Royal Regiment of Fusiliers. The cottage
orne at Montmorenci took his fancy to that degree, that he
made it his summer retreat and passed the winter months
m a large dwelling still bearing the name of Kent House,
facing],the new Court House on St Louis street ; 1791-3

— 31 —
brings back to us the memory of some of the darkest times
for old France, when the hatred of England was at its heights-
On what footing was then the social intercourse between
the descendants of France and England, in the former seat
of French power in Quebec ? It were difficult to give this
question a very full answer. Downing street had just given
the colony a new constitution, the constitution of 1791, but
our Parliament had not met, and the English and French
were waiting events. The Royal Duke, with his fine regi
ment had landed in the Lower town, on the nth August.
It befitted the authorities, clerical, civil and military, toge
ther with the gentry, to organize a grand levee, to pay
homage to the Sovereign's son. But who did call at the
Chateau St. Louis where the levee was held ? No court jour
nal to tell us ; and social events were very meagrely reported,
in Neilson's repository of news ; the old Gazette. Nothing
much to giiide us but an entry in the Quebec Gazette of the
i8th August, 1791, of the names of those who signed the
address. Can we not then re-people the little world of Quebec
of 1791, and recall some of the chief actors in the pageant
at Government House ?
Let us walk in with the " nobility and gentry " and make
our best bow to the scion of royalty. There, in full uniform
stands His Excellency, I.,ord Dorchester, the Governor-
General, one of our most popular administrators. Next to
him, that tall, athletic mihtary man, is the Deputy Governor,
Sir Alured Clark ; his chief is to set sail in a few days for
England ; he looks eager to seize the reins of office. Round
him, there is a bevy of judges and Executive Councillors,
high state officials, all done up to kill, a Vancienne mode, by
Monsieur Jean Laforme, court hair-dresser, with powdered
periwigs, ruffles, jabots and formidable pigtails. Here is
Judge Mabane, grave and thoughtful as usual. Secretary
Pownall, Hon. Messrs. Finlay, Dunn, Harrison, Samuel
Holland, the Surveyor- General ; Collins, Col. Caldwell,

— 32 —
Fraser, Adam Lymburner, Messrs. Lester, Young, W.
Smith, jr., close to his learned father the Hon. Chief Justice
Smith. There is a separate but no less brilliant group, in which
you may perchance recognize the bearers of old historic
names : Messrs. de Longueuil, Baby, de Bonne, Duchesnay,
Duniere, Gueroult, de Lotbiniere, de St. Ours, Dambour
gfes, de Rocheblave, de Rouville, de Boucherville, Lecompte
Dupr^, Bellestre, Taschereau, de Tonnancour, Panet, de
Salaberry and a host of others.
But I hear youask : " Were all these grandees present " ?
Most assuredly, if they happened to be in the city at that
time. It was a point of convenances.
The bigjburly colonel of the 7th Fusileers, Prince Edward,
aged 25, courteous and dignified, gives each of his father's
lieges a hearty shake of the hand and seems hesitating
whether he will not deliver right off, the pretty little speech
which however, histor)' tells us, was uttered some time after
at the hustings of the Charlesbourg election, where stump
orators seemed inclined to stir up a war of races.
" Away " exclaimed the Prince to the excited voters,
" with those hated distinctions of English and Canadians ;
".you are all my august fathers's beloved subjects. "
The main portion of Haldimand House, at Montmorenci,
is just as Prince Edward left it. The room in which he used
to write (the collection ofthe Duke's letters, published by
the late Dr. W. J. Anderson, shows what a voluminous
correspondent, what a thoughtful patron and protector he
proved hiraself to Canadian youth) is yet in existence ; a
table and a chair — part of the furniture — are to this day.
religiously preserved, pleasing souvenirs of other days.
Haldimand House is now the residence of Patterson Hall,
Esq., the co-proprietor of the extensive saw mills at the foot
ofthe falls.

LA BONNE SAINTE-ANNE.

Its miracles. Baie St. Paul — Kalrri's mining explo
rations, in 11 ^^Earthquakes and Siege anecdotes.
W.-H.-H. Murray describes as follows :
Canada's Holy Shrine :
" On the north shore opposite the lower end of Orleans
Island stands the church known over the world as La bonne
Ste. Anne, It is the Canadian Loretto ; the shrine of holy
pilgrimage, and to it thousand and tens of thousands flock
each year. They come, not singly, but in whole parishes,
headed by their cur'e. A motley crowd ; the aged and the
young ; the white-haired grandma and the toddling child ;
the strong and weak: the sick and well; the rich and
poor ; the man with perfect body and the cripple wretched
in his deformity ; all throng to this shrine close by the St.
Lawrence tide at the base of the Laurentian Hills. Why do
tbey come, these thousands ? What charm is in this place
potent enough to draw so vast a multitude? What good or
gain do they obtain by coming ? Fair questions and fair
shall be the answer. They come because they claim they
get great good to soul and body both. Some come because
they are heartsick and would say their prayers in some holy
spot, and seek help of God through the interceeding of a
pure soul long gone, who stands as one of the Saints before
Him, and hence has favor in asking. But others come
because they are sick in body, and tormented with physical
pain, and are pressed dire with mortal ailments, so that the
bright days are full of misery and the long hours of dark
night with groaning, and these — the man with the stout
staff to aid him hobble on, the cripple with his needed
crutch, and others yet who may not walk, are borne on

— 34 —
litters and mattress — all these come to seek help of the all
healing God, through his sweet Saint, and deliverance from
their dreadful maladies and the mortal ills that sorely beset
them. GREAT MIRACLES
and they do say — I question not the truth of it, for I have
asked to the end of answering years ago, and beyond it, and
to-day only note what I do see in wandering, and let the
answer go undebated — they say that on this spot, under the
Laurentian Hills on the St Lawrence river, in the year of
our Lord, 1887, great miracles are wrought, even as of old
times, and that the sick are healed, the blind are made to
see, the deaf to hear, the lame to walk with ease, and those
nigh unto death have strength and vigor come back to
them ; and that, too, suddenly, and through the intercession
of that once good woman and now pure soul, the good Ste.
Anne. Nor is proof lacking of the truth of this, for you see
the crutches that cripples who hobbled to the altar on them
with such effort, threw from thera on the instant, that they
prayed; and staffs and stout sticks numberless ; and ban
dages too, such as open sores have over them ; and splints
and many ingenious contrivances to strengthen structural
weakness and lessen human pain.. Lo I are they not all
here in heaps where they have been thrown from the hands
of the recovered and healed ; as with great joy and a hap
piness indescribable, they dashed the hateful things away,
as prisoners might dash their chains down on the dungeon
floor when after long waiting, they were suddenly freed of
them. "
The following quotation occurs in the Maple Leaves,
for 1863 :
" Steaming down the channel north of Orleans, the first
object of interest that strikes the eye after the beautiful and
varied scenery of the parishes of L'Ange-Gardien and Cha
teau-Richer, presenting every diversity of hill and dale,
wild, rocky promontory, and advancing and receding moun
tain and forest views, is the pretty church of Ste. Anne,
nestling under the brow of a steep hill, with its tall spire
glistening in the rays of the morning sun. Standing on a
gentle undulation sweeping up from the river, the church

— 35 —
of Ste. Anne, or La Bonne Ste. Anne, as it is more fre-
¦quently called, forms one of the most attractive features in
the landscape. Hither annually repair the blind, the lame,
the halt, the rheumatic, and those afflicted with every
species of bodily ailment, who come to invoke the inter
position of the saint to make them whole. Crowds of per
sons thus afflicted, with their friends or relatives, are then
to be seen on the roads with the above object, to pray, or
return thanks. That cures, either partial or whole, have
been effected by these annual devout pilgrimages, there can
be little doubt, as several have been attested by eye witnes
ses. A number of crutches left behind by persons cured,
were formerly hung up in the church, but within late years
they have been removed to the sacristy. On entering, the
eye is struck with the neatness ofthe interior and the beauty
of the decorations.
" The walls are adorned with strange paintings, of a pri
mitive nature, with singular explanations.
" One is a wreck scene, with Ste. Anne represented as des-
oending from heaven to the aid of a fleet during a storm,
with the following curious inscription, copied verbatim et
litteratim : —
EX. VOTO. LE. NAVJRE. LE. ST. FRANQOIS. DE. CANADA. DEMATTE. DETOVS.
LBS. MATS. LE.29BRE. 1732: OOMMANDE. PAR. PIERRE. D'ASTRARITZ. ARME.
PAR. M. LAMORILLB. LE. JEVNE.
" Another painting on the wall immediately opposite
represents the landing of emigrants sometime before the
year 1 7 1 7 ; another not far distant, a squadron of three war
vessels, bearing a tri-colored flag of red, white and green."
* *
*
" Over the main altar, may be seen Lebrun's painting of
Ste. Anne, presented by the vice-roy de Tracy. The two
paintings over the two smaller altars were executed by
Father Luc Lefrangois, a friar who died in 1685 — a pre
sent from Bishop Laval. Here follow the paintings in the
nave of the Church from the left :
ist A picture of St. Louis — King of France.
2nd A small painting representing the French King's
ship Le Heres, just when escaping imminent danger

— 36 —
3rd An ex-voto, depicting Father Peter and the crew of
the ship Le Saint-Esprit, in the act of making a vow to
Saint Anne.
4th A canvass, representing the vessel Le Royer, caught
in the ice and miraculously saved by the intercession of
Saint Anne.
It is hard to forbear a smile, on viewing at the top of this
canvass. Saint Anne quietly teaching the Holy Virgin to
read without her apparently realizing the scene of danger
enacted at her feet.
Really, nearly all these pictures have no other merii,
except as recalling the grateful souvenir of gratitude which
they commemorate. Some are caricatures.
5th An ex-voto of Louis Cypret saved from shipwreck, ia
1706. 6th Another shipwreck scene, exhibiting a ship's crew,
making a vow to Saint Anne and Saint Antoine of Padua.
7th Over the side door, a small painting portrays roughly
a forest and a man crushed under a tree ; in the foreground
is seen a small dog, which looks as if he was carrying some
thing away. An old Legend, relates that a Canadian
named Dorval, while at work, alone in the woods near
Tadoussac, was crushed under a tree he had hewn down,
and had his leg broken. Pinioned under the fallen trunk,
and without hopes of help in this wilderness, he uttered a
prayer to Saint Anne, who immediately inspired a means of
deliverance. He took a piece of bark, soaked it in his blood and gave
it to his dog, telling him to go and «eek help, at the
neighboring dwellings ? The faithful animal, divining the
thoughts of his master, ran to Tadoussac, his restless
moveraents and the piece of bloody bark, which he placed
at the feet of those he met, awakening attention. Some
followed the animal, who brought them to his imprisoned

— 37 —
master. Thus delivered, Dorval hastened to accomplish his
vow and to deposit an ex-voto, as a token of his gratitude.
8th On the right side, at the entrance ofthe stairs, leading
to the gallery, there is a small picture on wood, repre
senting a shipwreck on the St. Lawrence, between the two
churches of Beauport and Levis : a fearful caricature.
9th Shipwreck of Mr. GauUn's ship.
loth Marine view, copied by Mr. Plamondon, artist from
an ancient ex-voto. The ship of Mr. Juing, a Quebec mer.
chant, chased by three Dutch men-of war, escapes mira
culously, through the intercession of Saint Anne. Just
at the eve of capture, a cloud hid the ship from the
view of the enemy, affording it time to seek a refuge at the
mouth of the Saguenay.
I ith Saint Anne and the Holy Virgin, at whose feet,
kneels Mademoiselle de B^cancour, of Three Rivers, later
on, a nun, in the Ursuline Nunnery of Quebec, under the
name of Holy Trinity.
12th A miniature representing a Madame Riverin, of
Quebec, in the act of kneeling with her four children, at
the foot of the altar of Saint Anne."
(From La FUe de la Sonne Sainte Anne, abb6 H. R. Casorain.)
•*
* *
ST. PAUL'S BAY
Baie St. Paul, at the base of the Laurentides, sixty miles
lower down than Quebec, on the north shore of the St. Law
rence, was a terra incognita, which for years I had longed to
explore. Its mineral deposits, sulphur springs, the fantastic
upheavings of its soil, its hidden volcanos and their deep
mutterings, had ever invested it in my youthful eyes, with
weird attractions ; strange indeed are its chronicles. Among
3

— 38 —
other marvellous occurrences, the Jesuit Jerome Lallemant
relates how a small mountain, on the shore, in 1663, a quarter
of a league in area " had toppled over into the lap of the St.
Lawrence, and as with a rebound from its watery bed, had
risen to the surface, a diminutive island, presenting a wel
come haven against storms " ; one would be apt to fancy
that this eccentric diver, is none else than Ile-aux-Coudres,
h^d one not the precise testimony of Jacques Carrier, who,
on his ascent of the St. Lawrence, in September, 1535, found
the green isle moored in its present location ; this was, be
it reraembered, long before the phenomenal earthquake of
1663, was supposed to have played its pranks.
I shall have occasion hereafter to expatiate on these ter
rific convulsions of nature, in 1663, 1791, 1870, &c.
In verity this is par excellence, the land of earthquakes.
Baie St. Paul was famous long ago for its mines also ; as
early as 1739, the French Intendant HOcquart, had pre
vailed on his sovereign, to detail two able German mining
experts from France, Forster, senior, and Forster, junior,
whose mission was to enquire about the mineral wealth of
the locahty, and who reported six rich silver and lead mines
at Baie St. Paul.
Ten years later, a distinguished savant, Kalm, the friend
and disciple of the great Linnaeus, was to rip open the
bowels of the earth, with pick and hammer, in this classic
land of the north.
One follows with lively interest Professor Kalm, in his
mining explorations, at Baie St. Paul, during the summer
of 1749.
The learned man, accompanied by his Fidus Achates.
Lars Yungstroem— who carae over to America with him in
the Mary Gaily, in the triple capacity of courier, gardener,
florist, on the invitation of the Governor-General, joined a
party of distinguished French gentlemen, who left Quebec

— 39 —
in a rowboat, on the 29th August, 1749, for Baie St. Paul,
to explore its mines. The Swedish botanist had been pro
vided with an excellent cicerone, Dr. Gaulthier, the King's
surgeon in the colony, and also a good botanist ; the party
¦was composed of the Governor-General, the Marquis de la
Jonquiere, who had just succeeded to the noble and brave
Coihte de la Galissonniere, and the latter, algo accompanied
Kalm and several sporting friends, who, well provided with
fiire-arms, no'doubt cared more for game than for mineral
deposits, except when converted into the coin of the realm.
It was during harvest time; the pinnace seems to have
taken. the north channel, between Orleans and Ange-Gar-
dien ; as at present, it was considered too narrow and too
intricate, on account of its shoals, to admit of the safe
passage of large ships.
Kalm, speaks with rapture of the grand view presented
from Montmoren9i,. by the city " with the vast powder
magazine, crowning its summit ' — a building by its size
dwarfing the others." It seems to have stood on the summit of
Cape Diamond ; this is the first formal mention I have yet
met of this imposing structure. The fertile Isle of Orleans
with its sedgy beach, emerald meadows, golden wheat fields,
vine-clad heights is there noted down, as well as the Grandi
Ritilre, lower down than La Bonne Sainte -Anne ; the
Seminary Lyceum, farms, &c., at St. Joachiih, are all taken
in by the keen observer, who must have had ample; time to
write tip his diary, as the wind compelled' the party to take
shelter for the night, at St. Joachim.
Next day, the Canadian " Argo," after a stormy passage
under the frowning Cape Tourment and skirting the rocky,
abrupt, pine-clad cliffs of the ' Laurentides, crossed the
entrance of La Petite Rivilre, and landed at 5 p. m., at Baie
St. Paul, on 30th August ; the parish priest hurried to
receive, under his hospitable roof, the distinguished
explorers. Nothing seems to have escaped the prying eye

— 40 —
of the Swedish savant; the trees, flowers, sand of the
shore, the soil and its weird convulsions, the dialect of the
Indians he met, the birds, the frogs, even that ubiquitous
pest of an American forest in summer, the sanguinary mos-
quitoe, are noted ; the latter is discussed, compared with
his sanguinary Swedish cousin.
" The houses, he says, are ht with porpoise oil, and when
it is possible to get it, with seal oil " ; no gas, nor electric
light in those primitive days, be it remembered. Sept. ist,
finds the jolly mariners at Terre d' ihoulement : thus
named from the convulsive upheavings of the soil, by
earthquakes, a wild but fertile land. At twelve o'clock
noon, they reached the airy Cap-aux-Oies„ (Goose Cape)>
but no game could the philosopher discover, except a
solitary raven, and nothing here to gladden his scientific
Swedish heart, except that the greatest number ofthe plants,
were the same, here, as in Sweden.
On their way back to Baie St. Paul, the Nimrods of the
party spied a grey seal gambling in the wake of the pinnace,
but beyond gun-shot, the wise creature !
September 2nd, the explorers wended their steps to the
mountain, a little to the south of the Priest's Mill where
veins of silver and lead were said to exist ; the mountain,
a conglomerate of granite, whitish lime stone, redish quartz
and black mica ....
Lead occurs here in the shape of protuberances, of the
size of a pea — and more rarely in lamince or small sheets,
one inch square 
" The mine, he says, is not sufficiently rich to pay for its
working. The sulphur spring in the vicinity yields water of
a bad taste, which is worse, on the approach of rain. It is
used by the inhabitants as a cure against itch."
"The same day (2nd September, 1749) the explorers
visited another vein, said to contain silver, near Cap-au-
Corbeau. Then follows a very scientific disquisition on

— 41 —
mineral deposits and their formations ; but I cannot find
any explicit statement on this silver mine, or its probable
yield et pour cause I Kalm then mentions an industry
apparently flourishing at Baie St. Paul, in 1 749, but extinct
under that name at present, the manufacture of tar (goudron)
from red pine. Could it be our Canadian balsam ? After
noticing the valuable eel fisheries all along the north shore
of the St. Lawrence, I must bid adieu to the Marquis de la
Galissonniere's sympathetic friend and admirer, and resume
my short notice of Baie St. Paul and its earthquakes.
" The lofty promontary, east of St. Paul's Bay, opposite to
Isle aux Coudres, is known as Cap-au-Corbeau. " This cape
has something of the majestic and of the mournful. At a
short distance it might be taken for one of the immense
tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian desert by the
vanity of some puny mortal. A cloud of birds, children of
storm, wheel continually about its fir-crowned brow and
seem by their sinister croaking to intone the funeral of
some dying man." — (Sweetser.)
Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle-aux-Coudres, is the
.whirl pool, called Le Gouffre, where the water suddenly
attains a depth of 30 fathoms, and at ebb-tide, the outer
currents are repelled from Coudre Island to Cap-au-Cor
beau in impetuous eddies. Before the Gouffre began to
fill with sand, schooners caught in these eddies, described a
series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the
rocks of Pointe d. la Prairie, an object of dread to mariners,
entailing loss of life ; the Gouffre has lost its terrors in
the present day. *
* *
The history of Baie St Paul, humorously remarks its
annaHst,(i) seems to take one back to prehistoric times.
Pierre Boucher, Governor of Three Rivers, wrote on the
Sth October, 1663 to Colbert, Louis XIV's famous intend-
(1) " T. 0. " in L'AbeilU, for Nov. and Dec, 1859.

— 42 —
ant, " that there was not yet a living soul at Baie St Paul."'
How fortunate, adds the genial historiographer ! else had
any mortal been located there during the appalling throes
of nature, caused by the great earthquake of 1663, when
the mountains took to moving round, like frisking lambkins,
sicut agni ovium, he must have died of fright !
Twenty years later, in 1683, we are told that three families
composing 31 souls, were settled there, and that the public
roads were both difficult and dangerous. This seems more
than likel)', seeing that until 1812, there was no other mode
of access to this mountainous district in summer than by
water conveyance, or by trusting to a favorable state of the
tide and travelling on foot or on horseback, along the beach
under the stupendous, overhanging cliffs, at low water, until
the anxious wayfarer, bound for Quebec, reached St Joachim,
As an instance of the perils of the route, we read of the
melancholy end of one ofthe first pastors of St Anne, Revd.
Mr. Filion, who careless ofthe turn ofthe tide, had ventured
over this rough road and was drowned, on the 6th July
1679 (i)- His body, discovered on the beach at La Petite
Riviere, was towed by a young girl, behind her canoe, to St.
Anne du Petit Cap and buried there, in the church, says an
old memoir, with the handsome gold cross, which he wore,
at the time of his death.
The present highway, among the lofty capes, was cut
through the bush, by the Government, in 181 2, and rendered
quite practicable by further repairs in 1818, through the
parliamentary influence of Hon. P. De Salles Laterrifere,
though the absence of human habitations, except at intervals
of six or nine miles, renders this route undesirable during
January storms, especially at night. I can speak from
experience. (1) Another version says he was drowned out of a canoe.

— 43 —
The violent earthquake of 1663, which. Father Je'roiue
Lallemant says, " extended over a surface of twenty thou
sand leagues," seeraingly changed the surface of the wholq
valley of the St. Lawrence below Quebec, " altering the
beds of smaller streams, producing hollows and elevations
in various places, and throwing down hills in the valleys."
It left nowhere deeper traces than in the vicinity of Baie
St. Paul and Eboulements.
" In the vicinity of Pointe aux Alouettes (Lark Point, at
the entrance of the Saguenay), an extensive wood was
detached from terra firma, slid over the rocks in the river,
where it remained, some time with the trees covered with
green foliage, amidst the seething waters. "
(LAllemant).
Mire de I'Lncamation, the annalist of the Ursulines Con
vent at Quebec, furnishes a thrilling account of this terrible
Easter Monday, — 5th February, 1663, — when it began.
Globes of fire and brilliant meteors had already been seen
at Quebec, on the 7th January, and, on the 14th, two mock
moons, each surmounted by a crown of vaporous matter,
brilliantly illuminated, had startled Quebecers ; let us hear
this eye-witness describe the convulsions and horrors which
lasted until the 5th August following : " The first shock of
earthquake took place on February 5th, 1663, about half
past five in the evening. The weather was calm and
serene, when we heard a terrible noise and humming sound
like that of a great number of heavy carriages rolling over a
paved floor swiftly. After this, we heard both above and
below the earth and on all sides, as it were a confused
mingling of waves and billows, which caused sensations of
horror. Sounds were heard as of stones falling upon the
roofs in the garrets and chambers; a thick dust spread
around; doors opened and shut of themselves.- The bells
of all our churches and clocks sounded of themselves ; the

— 44 —
steeples as well as the houses swayed to and fro, like trees
in a great wind. And all this in the midst of a horrible
confusion of furniture turned over, stones falling, boards
breaking, walls cracking, and the cries of domestic animals,
of which some entered the houses and some went out ; in
a word, it seemed to be the eve of the day of judgment,
whose signs were witnessed. Very different impressions
were made on us. Some went forth for fear of being buried
in the ruins of our house, which was seen to jog as if made
of cards ; others prostrated themselves at the foot of the
altar as if to die there. One good lay sister was so terrified
that her body trembled for an hour without ability to stop
the agitation. When the second shock came, at eight
o'clock the same evening, we were all ranged in our stalls
at the choir. It was very violent, and we all expected death
every moment, and to be engulfed in the ruins of the
building  No person was killed." — (History of the
Ursulines of Quebec, vol. I p. 243-4).
War as well as the elements has bequeathed to Baie St.
Paul, a memory of sorrow. Among others, the fierce com
mander of Wolfe's Rangers, Capt. Gorham, left his footprints
on this distant strand. One reads of his reporting on the
15th August, 1579, to his commander, the results of his
devastations on the homes of the Baie St. Paul peasantry,
where he had landed on the 4th from his ships, with his
detachment of 300 men, one-half of whom were Rangers —
the remainder, Highlanders. The settlement, consisting of
about 50 farm houses and barns, was given to the flames by
him. He says he lost but one man, though the Baie St.
Paul peasants, before retiring with their valuables to the
woods, had opened, with their long duck guns, a brisk fire
on the ruthless invaders. He further reported that he had
ravaged by fire and sword the next settlement — Mai Bay —
thirty miles lower down, inflicting similar treatment on the
porpoise fishers and bittern eaters of Isle-aux-Coudres, and

— 45 -
Irom thence, crossing over to the south shore, he had burnt
the dwellings at St. Anne and St. Roch, after carrying away
as many sheep and as much farm produce as his ships could
stow. They also captured two prisoners, one Tremblay, of
Eboulements, and J. - B. Grenon, a Hercules, it would
appear, whose athletic feats, if tradition is to be credited —
ultimately saved his life, whilst his comrade was unhumanely
hoisted in the air and flung on a board from the ship three
times before he was quite dead I ! I The same experiment
was tried, it is said on Grenon, but main force failed to
make him bend to the fatal instrument of torture ; Captain
Gorman, struck, with such extraordinary muscular power,
had him pinioned and brought him a prisoner with him
to Montmorenci, in order to save his life. Thus secured,
tradition adds, that a British tar took a brutal pleasure in
taunting him and cuffing his face — when he begged, from
the captain, as a favor to have for a few minutes the use of
his fists to protect himself, and on a repetition of the un
worthy treatment, Grenon, with the back of his hand, hit the
sailor, who fell and expired in a few minutes. Grenon's
strength became quite proverbial ; to this day, one hears
" Fort comme Grenon." (i)
I must bring to a close thispleasant gossip of other days
and from the dizzy height of Cap-au-Corbeau, give a parting
glance to the grand panorama spread at my feet. There
meanders many hundred yards below, the boisterous Remy,
and the erratic Rivilre des Mares, ever ready after spring
freshets to change its course and seek new channels on the
sandy shore, unearthing trunks of trees of an unknown era ;

(1) I am indebted to a writer in LAbeille, for November and
December, 1859, signing T. C, for a large portion of the information
summarised in this sketch ; on his authority these traditions of the
siege of 1759, rest.

— 46 -
— there winds the roaring Bras, at the foot ofthe St. Antoine
hills, and the sweet, murmuring St. Michel streamlet, and
there cluster, beyond the valley, the white cottages of St.
Antoine, Perou, St. Jerome, St Jean, St. Joseph and St.
Flavien, cosily nestling in the green Laurentian gorges,
whilst to the south, slumber in their perennial majesty, the
glad waters of the grand old St. Lawrence.
I am not in possession of the particulars of the memor
able earthquake of i79r, but the press has furnished ample
details of the last catastrophe.
An eye-witness, the Revd. J. B. Plamondon, the Parish
Priest, gives, in the Journal de Quebec, ofthe 22nd October,
1870, a graphic account of the phenomenon which had so
startled the inhabitants of Baie St Paul, on the 20th of that
month. " About half-past seven a. m.," says he, " a fearful
clap of thunder struck terror among the residents. The soil
began not merely to quake, but to boil and surge, so as to
produce giddiness in persons indoors and outdoors. The
dwellings seemed to be on a volcano ; the crust of the earth
was rent asunder at five or six different places and ejected
in the air columns of water, six, eight and even, fifteen feet
high, mixed with sand, which spread itself on the surface.
Scarcely six chimneys remained standing in the whole vil
lage. The walls of houses were thrown to the ground ;
stoves, cooking and other utensils were capsized. Our
Convent is uninhabitable ; three chimneys and the ceiling
of the attics are down ; three of the pupils and a maid ser
vant have been struck, but none seriously, by the falling
debris. The church has seriously suffered ; a portion of its front
fell, with a piece ofthe arched roof; the walls are so cracked
that it is doubtful if they can be repaired. The alarm was so
great that for three or four minutes, we thought it was all up
with us. We are still in a state of dread, as from time to

— 47 —
time other shocks occur, but less violent. Every one fears
the approaching night, doubtful where he may be to-morrow.
Had the catastrophe happened at night lime a great loss of
life would have ensued. Not a house escaped intact, in a
radius of four leagues. At the very moment I write the
earth is quaking ; who can tell me whether I will be spared."
A month later the soil continued to shake, and on the 22nd
November, a Stygian darkness followed a new upheavel of
.the earth, attended with a violent wind and murky weather
with brilliant aurora borealis at night. The residents were
.worn out by these incessant alarms and in utter despair."
Such are some of the exciting experiences of the denizens
of this volcanic region — Baie St. Paul.
Thus holds forth history. Let us seethe embellishments
tradition supplies to the melancholy record. " When the
English fleet ascended the St. Lawrence, it came to anchor
at Isle-aux-Coudres, on the eve of Ascension day, in June,
and spread such terror among the islanders that the majo
rity of the women were sent across to Baie St Paul and
sought refuge with the families of that parish — not quite one
hundred in number — in the forest. The French authorities
had ordered that Isle-aux-Coudres and the Island of Orleans
should be evacuated at the approach of the English. These
families remained thus concealed all summer until Septem
ber', under Revd. Mr. Chaumont's charge, The male por
tion of the fugitives emerged from their hiding place — gene
rally at night — to look after their farms or to build on the
shore, sand redoubts to shield them from the enemy. The
remains of those earth works, styled canons, are visible to
this day. Capt. Gorham acknowledges but one casua,lty
among his men, but tradition points out that he lost several,
and that, when despatched, the Islanders threw their bodies
in a pond near the chapel, close to a spot memorable for
an engagement known as Pointe D'Aulac.

— 48 —
Two Islanders met their death at the hands ofthe English.
One of them, Charles DeMeules, as appears by the church
register, was scalped I

Yatching, on the St. Lawrence, at Tadoussac, so attractive
in our day, amid summer, had serious drawbacks, in 1663.
Such at least was the experience of Sieur de Lespinay, who
was taking in his yawl, the Governor's secretary, M. de
Maze, from Gaspd to Quebec.
" Opposite to Tadoussac, the river rose and fell with the
waves, with a tremulous and unusual motion, causing much
alarm among the passengers. Casting at the same moment
their eyes towards land, they saw a mountain moving and
tumbling over in the river, so that its summit was level
with surrounding land. Scared, they steered from the shore,
lest some fragments should reach the boat. A short time
after a large ship, at the spot, felt a similar shock : the
terror stricken sailors prepared for death : the billows were
agitated and lashed in every direction, without any apparent
and known cause (i).
It was my pleasant task to relate elsewhere (Chronicles of
the St. Lawrencee, pages 244-45,) on the authority of Revd
abbd H. Raymond Casgrain,the pious legend, current at Isle-
aux-Coudres, respecting the death of a devoted missionary.
Father Labrosse, in 1782, at Tadoussac, and tne superna
tural circumstances attending it ; how father Labrosse after
prophesying the hour of his death was found at twelve
o'clock at midnight, dead, with his head resting on his hands
on the first step of his chapel.
(1) Cours dJHistoire du Canada — Ferland, Vol. \,p. 488.

— 49 -
A Prince Edward Island poet thus holds forth :
THE BELL OP DEATH.
A LEGEND OF THB ISLE AtJX CotlDKES AND TadODSSAO.
Fierce blew the strong southeastern gale,
The sea in mountains rolled,
A starless sky hung wildly tossed.
The midnight hour had tolled.
Is that a sea — is this an hour —
With sky so wildly black.
To launch a barque so frail as that,
Te men of Tadoussac?
Strong though your arms, brave though your hearts,
As arms and hearts can be.
That tiny skiff cau never live
In such a storm-swept sea.
Where Saguenay's dark waters roll
To swell St, Lawrence tide,
Down to the beach that stormy night
Pour stalwart fishers stride. .
On through the surf the firail boat speeds.
And see — ^before her prow —
The giant waves shrink down and crouch.
As if in homage low.
Calm as the surl^ce of a lake
Sunk deep mid wooded hills,
The track spreads out before the boat, —
The sail a fair breeze fills ;
While all around the angry waves
Bear high their foamy scalps,
And frowning hang like toppling crags,
O'er passes through theJAlps,

— 50 —
Who stilled the waves on GalliUe,
Makes smooth that narrow track,-
'Tis faith that makes your heart so bold,
Ye men of Tadoussac 1

Pierce blows the strong southeastern gale
Around the lowly pile,
Where dwells the lonely missioner
Of Coudre's grassy isle.
His psalms are read — his beads are said, —
And by the lamp's- pale beam,
He studious culls from sainted page
Sweet flowers on which to dream.
But see he starts I strange accents come
Porth from the flying rack —
" Puneral rites await your care —
Haste on to Tadoussac I "
And from the church's lowly spire
Tolled forth the passing bell,
And far upon the tempest's wing
Was borne the funeral knell.
That night along St. Lawrence tide.
Prom every church's tower.
The bells rung forth a-requiem.
Swung by some unseen power.
The storm has lulled and morning's light
Pierces the shifting mists.
That hang like shattered regiments
Around the mountain crests.
From brief repose, the anxious priest
Porth on his mission speeds,
O'er pathless plain, by hazel brake
Where the lone bittern breeds.

— 51 —
At length upon the Eastern shore
Ended his weary track ;
Where wait the hardy fishermen —
The men from Tadoussac.
¦" Heaven bless you," cried the holy man,
I know your high behest, .
•God's friend, and yours, and mine has gone
To claim his well-won rest."
" Unmoor the boat — spread out the sail,"
And o'er a peaceful track,
Again in eager flight, the boat
Shoots home to Tadoussac.
Before the altar, where so oft
He broke the holy bread.
Clasping the well-worn crucifix
The priest of God lay dead.
O'twas a solemn sight, they say.
To see that calm cold face,
Upturned, beneath the sanctuary light,
Within that holy place.
Happy LaBrosse I to find for judge
^ Him, whom from realms above
Thy voice had called to dwell with men 
A prisoner of love I JOHN CAVEN.
Charlottetown, P. E. I., March, 1885.

DUFFERIN TERRACE.

Ill

The Chateau promenade as seen by the Swedish savant
Kalm, in August, 1749. Dtjffeein Terrace described
by Adirondack Murray, in August, 1887.
Our sturdy old fortress abounds with such striking view
points — is replete with so many quaint and picturesque
nooks and corners, that one can easily realize the gifted
Henry Ward Beecher's feeUngs, when writing to the New
York Ledger, from Quebec, he said " We rode about as if
we were in a picture-book, turning over a new leaf at every
street such indeed is our " old curiosity shop. "
Some spots in fact seem in the eyes of the reflective,
cultured tourist as if haunted by the ghostly presence ofthe
illustrious dead, once moving instinct of life, in these
romantic purlieus.
Conspicuous for its scenic beauty and historic memories
may be reckoned the new and superb boulevard,
began by the Earl of Durham, our Vice-roy, in 1838, at an
elevation of 182 feet over the level of the St. Lawrence —
on the foundations of the old Ch&teau St. Louis, destroyed
by fire, four years previously, on 23rd January, 1834 : it
had then in length, perhaps, 200 feet and sixty feet in
breadth. It was prolonged under the Dufferin plans to
1,420 feet in length.
This terrace unique in the world, for its commanding
position, was, on the 9th June, 1879, soleranly opened out
to the pubUc, by Their Excellencies, the Marquis of Lome

— 53 —
and H. R. H. the Princess Louise, and at the special
request of the Mayor, and the city council and in presence
of a great concourse of persons, officially named the
Dufferin Terrace, after its public spirited originator, the
Earl of Dufferin, our previous Governor-General.
From 1620 to 1834, the Castle St. Louis was the official
residence ofthe representative of royalty, under French and
under English rule. Several of these vice-roys, proud Dukes,
distinguished Earls, martial Counts and Barons, occasionally
held there their court, in quasi regal, style, in order to keep
up the prestige of France's Grand Monarque (Louis XIY)
and thereby impress, the surrounding Indian tribes with
his might ; or as worthy representatives of the British
crown in the new world : Champlain, de Montmagny,
Dailleboust, Lauzon, D'Argenson, de Mdsy, de Cour-
celles, stern old Count de Frontenac, La Barre, CalHferes,
de Vaudreuil, de Ramsay, de Longueuil, de Beauharnois,
de la Galissonniere, de la Jonquifere, Duquesne; General
Murray, Sir Guy Carleton, Sir F. Haldimand, Lord Dor
chester, General Prescott, Sir James H. Craig, Sir George
Prevost, Sir James Kerapt, Sir John Coal Sherbrooke, the
Duke of Richmond, Earl Dalhousie, Lord Aylmer.
A curicus glimpse of this famous promenade and of its
promenaders, in August, 1749, appears in Professor Kalm's
Travels in America, in 1747-51.
Let rae introduce to the reader the Swedish savant, in
the words used in my inaugural address, as president of the
Literary and Historical Society, of Quebec, on 3rd Decem
ber, 1879 :
" On the 5th August, 1749, a distinguished traveller, re
commended by royalty (i) — accredited by academies and
universities — Professor Kalm, the friend of Linnaeus, landed
in the Lower Town. His approach had not been unherald-
(1) The Kings of Prance and of Sweden.
4

— 54 —
ed, nor unexpected ; advices from Versailles having pre
viously reached the Governor of Canada. On stepping on
shore from the " canopied " bateau, provided for him by the
Baron of Longueuil, Governor of Montreal, Major de Ser-
monville, the officer to whose care he had been committed,
led him forthwith to the palace of the Count de La Galis
sonniere, the Governor-General of Canada, who, he says,
received him with "extraordinary kindness." His Excel
lency at that time, the recognised patron of literature and
the arts, in New France, in anticipation of the Professor's
arrival, had ordered apartments to be got ready for the illus
trious stranger, who was introduced to 'an intelligent guide,
Dr. Gaulthier, royal physician, and also an able botanist.
Kalm, henceforth, will be an honored, nay, a familiar
guest at the Chateau St. Louis, yonder, during his stay in
Quebec, and, a nightly promenader on the Chateau gallery
overlooking the St. Lawrence.
The Professor tells how cheerfully he paid to the crew,
comprised of six rowers, the usual fee ox pour-boire to escape
the traditional " ducking " to which all travellers (without
excepting the Governor-General) were otherwise subjected
to, on their first visit to Quebec or to Montreal.
A man of mark was the Sv.'cJish botanist and philosopher,
not only by his position among European savants, but also
as being the special (i) envoy of the Royal Academy

(I) Baron Sten Charles Bielke, of Finland, had proposed tothe
Royal Academy of Sciences, at Stockholm, to send an able man to
the Northern ports of Siberia and Iceland, as localities which are
partly under the same latitude with Sweden ; and to make there
such observations, and collections of seeds aud plants, as would
improve the Swedish husbandry, gardening, manufactures, arts and
sciences. Professor Linnteus thought that a journey through North
America would be yet of a more extensive utility, the plants of
America being then but little known. Kalm's mission to America,
however, was due to the initiative of Count Tessin, a nobleman of
-merit, ou his becoming President of the Royal Academy ; to the
learned botanist Linnasus ; and to the influence of the Prince Royal,
subsequently King of Sweden, and then Chancellor of the University
-of Upsala.

— 55 —
of Sciences, at Stockholm, and as the representative
-of the three Universities of Aobo, Lund and Upsala,
Vho liad supplied the greater portion of the funds neces
sary to carry out his scientific mission, which lasted nearly
four years. Provided with passports and recommendations
to the Swedish Ministers at the Courts of London, Paris,
Madrid, the Hague, we find Peter Kalm sailing from
Upsala on the i6th October, 1747, accompanied by Lars
Yungstraem — an assistant, skilful as a botanist, a gardener
and an artist.
The disciple of Linn^us, after having successively visited
Norway, came to England ; and after spending some tirae
there, he crossed the Atlantic, viewing New York and
Pennsylvania, and finally Canada, noting down, day by day
in his journal, countries — men — manners — animals —
trees — plants — ores — minerals, &c., with accuracy and
in detail. His travels are the subject-matter of two large
volumes, illustrated with plates, maps, &c., and translated
into English, in London, in 1771.
Here is what he has to say of the vice-regal residence and
its gallery or veranda.
" The Palace (Chilean Saint-Louis) is situated on the
west or steepest side of the mountain, just above the lower
city. It is not properly a palace, but a large building of
stone, two stories high, extending north and south. On the
west side of it is a court- yard, surrounded partly with a wall,
and partly with houses. On the east side, or towards the
river,-^ is a gallery as long as the whole building, and about
two fathoms broad, paved with smooth flags, and included
on the outsides by iron rails, from whence the city and the
river exhibit a charming prospect. This gallery serves as a
very agreeable walk after dinner, and those who come to
speak with the governor-general wait here till he is at leisure.
The palace is the lodging of the governor-general of Canada,
and a number of soldiers mount the guard before it, both at

— 56 —
the gate and in the court-yard ; and when the governor, or
the bishop, comes in or goes out, they must all appear in
arms and beat the drum. The governor-general has his own
chapel where he hears prayers ; however, he often goes to
Mass at the church of the Recollets, which is very near the
palace," What a charming picture Herr Kalm draws of the Gover
nor-General "of New France — the Comte de LaGalisson-
nibre. This nobleman, by his " surprising knowledge in
all branches of science, " has quite captivated the philoso
pher. " Never, " says Kalm, " has natural history had a
greater promoter in this country, and it is even doubtful
whether it will ever have his equal here.'' A statesman, an
orator, a great sea-captain, a mathematician, a botanist, a
traveller, a naturalist : such, the Count. He knew about
" trees, plants, earths, stones, ores, animals, geography,
agriculture, &c,, writing down all the accounts he has
received: a perfect encyclopedia of knowledge. What scien
tific discussions must have taken place between the illus
trious promenaders — about ships, colonies, commerce : a
dozen and more french vessels were lying at anchor at their
feet, says Kalm. Nearly a century later, we can recollect a
splendid display of English vessels : in May, 1838, in the
days of the pompous Earl of Durham.
Line-of-battle ships — stately frigates, twelve in nuraber :
the Alalabar — Hastings — CornwalUs — Inconstant — Hercu
les — Pique — Charybdis — Pearl — Vestal — Medea — Dee 
and Andromache, a fitting escort to our shores of the able,
humane, unlucky Vice-Roy and High Commissioner,
with his clever advisers — Turton, Buller, Wakefield,
Hansome, Derbyshire, Dunkin, cum multis aliis.
The French had built ships at Quebec nearly a cen
tury before Kalm's visit. Colbert had authorized Inten
dant Talon to offer bounties ; a ship was on the stocks in
1667. Doubtless, when Kalm left Quebec in the fall of

— 57 —
1749) the shipwrights were actively engaged on the hull of
the King's ship " L'Orignal, ¦" (i) which, in October of
1750, broke her back on being launched at Diamond Har
bor. Shipbuilding, however, was doubtless checked by the
instructions sent out by the french court, and seems to
have had but a precarious existence under British rule, until
1800. When Kalm visited Quebec, in 1749, it was the sea
port of all Canada : " There were thirteen great and small
vessels in the harbour, and they expected more. " In our
day, we have seen thirteen hundred square-rigged vessels
registered as the arrivals of the year !
Let us bid adieu to the genial and learned Stockholm
savant, the inmate ofthe adjoining Chateau for forty days,
in the summer of 1747, and greet a gifted son of Boston,
the marvellous and sympathetic word-painter Murray, in
August, 1887, when his yatch, the Champlain was moored
¦under Quebec's frowning battlements.
ADIRONDACK MURRAY LISTENS TO THE BAND ON THE
TERRACE.
Mr. W.-H.-H. Murray, in his letter from Quebec to the
Boston Herald, says : —
" Last night this great promenade was thronged with a
gay multitude. The moon was at the half, and the St.

(1) The. Abcille, a small literary journal published within the
walls of the Seminary of Quebec, under date of 19th January, 1878,
contains extracts from the 3rd Volume of the JbwrnaZ fZesJ^sMites. One
of these extracts runs thus: "October, I'TSO, King's ship "L'Orignal,"
built at Quebec, was lost in launching at Cape Diamond. "
We likewise read in the first Volume of Smith's Bistory of Caiuxda,
page 224 : " Oct. (1750), This year, a ship of the line, a seventy-four,
was built at Quebec, but was lost, having broken her back in getting
off the stocks at Cape Diamond. "
The last timbers of this old wreck were removed from the river
channel in November, 1879, by Captain Gigufere's (Government) Lif
ting Barge. Many fragments have been converted into walking
sticks and toys of various designs. A selection of these well preserved
•Canadian oak planks has been presented to, and accepted by H. B,
H. Princess Louise, to pannel a room in her English home.

— 58 —
Lawrence, far below, flowed silver white. The white sails
of ships hanging in their brails and all their yards and ropes
gleamed like pale glas<:. Quebec's best band was playing,
and the well modulated music flowed out upon the air, and
swelled and sunk in melodious waves along the sloped
glacis of the great fortress and across the whitely flowing.
river. The white-haired man and the golden-headed child,.
the brunette and the blonde, the black-coated priest, the-
students of Laval and young graduates of Harvard and
Yale, were mingled in the throng. In the pauses of
the music of the band, a Spanish student, dressed in the
habit of Cordova, was playing light Spanish airs and
love songs that have been sung a thousand years under the
listening windows of Saville, with dark, amorous eyes gaz
ing down approvingly upon the serenader. Anon the
" Marseillaise " swells up its sudden and fierce clash of
sound, as a turbulent sea sends up its crests ragingly, and
over all the vast space filled with the raoving throng, a hum
of many voices rose, vague, indistinct, suggestive.
" It was a lovers's night in truth, and many a vow was
whispered and exchanged, I warrant, and many a loving.
glance was given and returned, I know, for lovers were
plenty all around me as I strolled along, and we old fellows,.
who have done with love-making ourselves, still have an eye
to see and a heart to enjoy, thank God, the lovemakingand
the mating going on around us, as we stroll down the way
which leads us gently, as our old hearts trust, to the lovers
and the loving, whose arms were once so warm and lips so
sweet, as we were held and kissed by them in the old, sweet
days so sadly gone. It is near sunset with us now white-
headed confreres of mine, and some of us are glad of it,
as weary men, afield, are glad of gloaming. But they who
should know — for they talk confidently — tell us that beyond
the sunset we shall come to another sunrise, all dewy and
fragrant, as the first one was, only sweeter, and all our fresh
young Ufe, yea, all the warmth and loving of it, and all the
joy and gladness, along with those who made it so sweet to
live and be, shall be oars again. If we were sure that it
were so, then were it well if we did hurry on out of the
gloaming and stand face to face with that far sunrise spee
dily. Again the music rises and swells out above the river.
It is the hymn of parting—" God Save the Queen "—and.

— 59 —
farewells are being spoken by many, and many a hand is
being pressed and many a loving glance exchanged. Soon
the vast throng are gone and I am left alone. The great
promenade is tenantless, silent, lonely. A few sounds come
up from the lower town — the barking of a dog, a babe's cry,
a captain's hail to his ship, the strong, robust call mellowed
by distance — and the white raoonlight lying softly on whar
ves and rivers, on silent parapet and chiming steeple. The
silence of the place grows weird, the glamour ofthe old past
is on me and I see uncanny sights. Men and women
lung, long dead — dead these hundreds of years — pass me.
Is not that man, the man in that angle there, Champlain ?
Surely it is he, the very same the man who crossed the
ocean 20 times, who shot the Iroquois chief near Ticonde
roga on Lake Champlain, who founded this city 250 years
ago, and whose dust is under the altar there in the great
basilica ? And who are these coming this way ? Surely this
is he, the brave old Lord de Frontenac, the old bluff savior
of Canada. My lord, I greet you ! This city belongs to
you and Champlain. See, there goes Laval, ambitious priest,
and better scholar, who founded the great university yonder
before John Harvard left his gift to letters in Massachusetts.
See how old Frontenac frowns at him. And who is ire in
the angle of the promenade gazing southward ? La Salle ?
Incredible 1 Why, his body sleeps beneath the flowers of a
Texan prairie. Montcalm and Wolfe arm in arm ! Brave
captains, you fight no more. Look ! look ! Those two in
the deep shadow of that old elm, that girl and young English
middy there. By heavens, that is Nelson, my Lord of Tra
falgar, flirting with the lovely Mary Simpson 1 My God, this
ground is haunted, and the dead of new and old France alike
are here. I'll get me to the yacht and say my prayers.
Beshrew me, this is a ghostly spot in truth 1 "

QUEBEC TO FORT JACQUES-CARTIER.

TV

Montcalm bejore the battle — The retreat — Fort Jacques
Cartier — Its relics.
Nothing is more pleasant on a mellow September after
noon than a sail up the St. Lawrence, or a ride over the
Queen's highway to the commanding site, where of yore
frowned Fort Jacques Cartier, at the confluence of the
raging Jacques Cartier stream with the St. Lawrence. The
distance is inconsiderable : twenty-seven miles at most.
Fort Jacques Cartier played an important part in the
fallen fortunes of France, in Canada, directly after the rout
of the French host, on the Plains of Abraham. Two
days after the overhelming defeat, it afforded a much
needed refuge to the demoraUzed French squadrons. It
served also as a useful store house and arsenal,for the supphes
and seige implements, brought from Montreal on sledges
during the winter of 1760, to storm Quebec in the spring.
In Sept. 1760, it was forced to capitulate, though commanded
by a brave soldier, the Marquis d'Albergotti ; Gen. Murray
took possession of it, when, it was dismantled; barely a
foundation now remains to tell of its forraer strength.
Courteous reader, let us unveil the past and follow on
foot de Levi's jaded warriors, over this road, then pretty
miry from the showers ofthe 13th Septeraber 1759 ; we shall
have in his A. D. C. Chevalier Johnstone, a wefl informed
military cicerone, but ere we leave the soldiers' white tents
in rear of the site on which now stands Ringfield — the coun
try seat of George Holmes Parke, Esq., on the Charlebourg

— 61 —
Toad — let us recapitulate some of the thrilling episodes of
that eventful Thursday. At 5 a. m. we shall raeet the intrepid
Montcalm at Beauport. Johnstone who was with him, tells
how anxiously he had spent the preceding night with his
leader and Col. Poularier, the commander of the Royal
Roussillon regiment, walking from the army's headquarters
(the Duchesnay Manor) to the ravine, at Beauport, close to
the ruisseau de I'ours^ until i o'clock in the morning. Mont
calm, it seems, was much agitated, from the uneasiness he
felt, as to the fate of the boats and provisions, which de
Bougainville was to send from Cap Rouge, the army having
provisions for two days only. Johnstone considered Mont
calm's mental sufferings on that night, as a presage of the
cruel fate which awaited him some hours later.
At day break, the French battery at Samos, near Sillery,
fired some guns ; this indicated an untoward occurrence.
Still Montcalm never could bring himself to suspect, that
the enemy, were deploying on the heights of Abraham,
unknown to him, though de Vaudreuil, encamped much
closer to the city, must have known it. However, the
September mist having hfted, his A. D. C. (Marcel),
bringing no tidings from de Vaudreuil's camp near the
bridge of boats, Montcalm sent Johrstone to order to their
tents the army which had passed the night in the trenches,
and then returned to hjs lodgings, " after drinking some
dishes of tea with Johnstone," quaintly says the latter; a
trooper was dispatched to Vaudreuil's carap to enquire the
cause of the firing frora the Samos battery and between six
and seven a. m., Montcalm with Johnstone rode towards
the bridge of boats, and to his surprise, on nearing de Vau
dreuil's lodging, he was confronted with the spectacle of
Wolfe's array upon the heights of Abraham, firing at the
Canadians scattered among the bushes. Montcalm
exchanged a word with de Vaudreuil, as the latter emerged
from his lodging, when, turning to Johnstone, he said.

— 62 —
" The affair is serious ! run at the top of your horse's speed
lo Beauport ; order Poularier to remain there at the
ravine with two hundred men, and to send me all the rest
of the left to the heights of Abraham with the utmost dili
gence." Here there seems to have occurred a miscon
ception, or error, in the orders given, which Johnstone
discusses openly asserting that instead of thrustmg the
French battailous between the town and the English, Mont
calm ought to have marched by Lorette (ancient) to Ste.
Foye — join de Bougainville's grenadiers and placed
Wolfe's army between two fires — that of the city guns and
that of Montcalm. The Marquis met with another draw
back : the disobedience of de Ramsay, the Governor of
Quebec, who refused to send him the field-pieces he asked
for. Of the eventful battle and subsequent disorderly rout,
mention has been made elsewhere. Let us not tarry at Cap
Rouge, reached by the French troops, at 4 a. m. on the
14th September, nor at the pastoral settlement of St. Augus-
tin, proud to this day, of its little lake and its Calvaire (i)
erected in 179S. We shall also hurry past Pointe aux Trem
bles, its orchards and its tobacco plantations, as well as the
small parish of Ecureuilles. Here we are on the shore ofthe
roaring Jacques Cartier stream, which we shall cross by
the bridge and land at the base of the airy site where
stood the old Fort. With the exception of the ditch, inha
bited by a colony of noisy frogs, and some strange configu
rations of the land, no vestige scarcely remains of the once
proud fortress. It must have covered three or four acres in
area and, was inaccessible on three of its abrupt sides,
except on its northern face, which overlooks a swamp ; a
splendid position for a fort, it must be acknowledged.

_ (1) A diminutive wooden structure, to shield against rain, a full
sized figure of our Saviour on the cross : where the peasantry iu the
evening assemble to pray.

— 63 —
Within this very structure and in the adjoining houses,
some 10,000 regulars and militia must have bivouacked
that night, [i4tli September 1759]. Levi on his way from
Montreal to take command at Quebec, after fully fortifying
it at all points, left there as commander, an experienced
French officer, of the name of Dumas ; the friar. Father
Alexis Dubuiron is said to have acted as almoner to the
troops, or at least, to have been an inmate of the Fort.
In April 1760, the Montreal militia and regulars, on their
way to re-take Quebec rendez voused there. Fortune, at
first, smiled on them ; they inflicted a memorable defeat on
the 28.th April, on General Jas. Murray, who re-entered first
Quebec, his long-legged highlanders being swifter of foot^
than Levi's warriors, fortunately for him.
Though Murray was censured for quitting his intrench
ments to risk a battle at Ste. Foye, against a superior force,
Levi's desperate venture, was named La folic de Levi, Levi's
folly. A brave deed is recorded, in Sept. 1760, when
Murray besieged and took the fort ; an inhabitant of the
Bois de I'Ail, one Joseph Lamotte, rushed out under a
withering fire and spiked a cannon, returning safe.
" Not many years back says the Abeille, of sth July, 1850,
there stood in the neighborhood, a large pine tree, dead from
old -age. The owner of the land on hewing down this
veteran, was much surprised to find imbedded in its trunk
thirty old gun barrels and twelve silver cups ; the gun stocks
were much corroded by worms ; the cups, however, were in
a good state of preservation though blackened by time and
damp ; they were about three inches in height and of the
weight of five silver dollars."
Quebec, June 1888.

QUEBEC TO PORTNEUF.

V

Winter Travel in the Olden Time between Quebec and
Montreal — Wayside Inns — The Grand Barons of
Portneuf and Their Ferocious Dogs — Perrot, the Bald.
To one blessed with a placid, enquiring and observant
mind, with good digestive powers superadded, the old style
of travel from Quebec to Montreal by easy stages in winter
was not without its pleasing episodes. Of course the mode
of locomotion, in summer, was by steam, until the close of
the session, when on, or about, the 22 nd November, the
river steamer of those days, the " Accommodation " went
into winter quarters. This takes us back to the lively times
of Little King Craig, as that charming raconteur, De Gasp6,
styled sturdy Sir J.-H. Craig, who meant to govern Canada,
in the same absolute way he previously commanded his
own regiment.
There was then a continuous, though not a large, stream
of travel, fro:n western Canada to Quebec. Members of
Parliament congregated here, as at present, during the ses
sion. Judges and barristers attended Circuit or other courts,
business men visited the capital, &c. The wayside inns,
carefully licensed by Government flourished. No such fraud
as the modern temperance hotel, with its execrable whisky
was then in existence ; none would have been tolerated ;
occasionally, then as^ now, an easterly snow storm blocked
up the winter roads ; those travelling by the stage as it was
then called, had to wait until Boreas had spent his fury,
beguiling away the time, as best they could, with cards or

— 65 —
books — frequently by paying a flying visit to the parish
magnates. First, to the Cure, generally a genial, hospitable,
pleasant, white-haired old gentleman ; the village doctor,
usually a talkative, ardent patriote ; the parish notary, a stiff-
necked, quaint official, the legal fac-totum of the parish,
whose deportment on such occasions became more dignified
by the addition of a white choker and black coat
In these happy days the Canadian peasant, untainted by
thepresent new fangled theories was as a rule, a genial host to
meet ; perhaps, in agriculture a trifle behind the times,
but justly and truly a fair representative of that nationahty,
which our late fellow-townsman, Andrew Stuait, K. C, styled
" un peuple gentilhomme. " When other amusements failed,
travellers could get both amusement and instruction, by
listening to the quaint legends about Indian scalping —
thriUing anecdotes bequeathed from father to son, anent the
great siege of 1759 — narratives of the plundering raids
during la guerre des Bastonnais, in 1775, related with
that charming bonhomie which distinguished these village
patriarchs. The Grand Trunk Railway, opened in 1853, killed off the
good old stages. Two rival lines, the Red line, owned by
Michel Gauvin, in Couillard street, the Blue line, by S.
Hough, ran on alternate days. The charge from Quebec to
Montreal, involving, in duration, a trip of two days, was $10,
meals and sleeping quarters extra. Punctually at 6 a. m.
every week day (except when a heavy storm interfered)
Gauvin's or Hough's long, covered sleigh, provided with
curtains and seats for four travellers, and a driver, pulled up,
in the dusk of a winter, morning, in front of the old Albion
Hotel, in Palace street, or of Schleup's Globe Hotel (now
the St. Louis Hotel), in St. Louis street. Two stout Cana
dian horses, tandem style, with strings of heavy grelots
round their necks, took the stage at a brisk trot to St.
Augustin, at Brunei's hotel, where a relay of fresh horses

— 66 —
awaited. The next relay was put on either at Cap Sante, or,
at noon, at Marcotte's or Hamelin's hotel, at Deschambault,
where a plain but substantial meal awaited the travellers : —
pork, chops, sausages, a beefsteak and vegetables, (i)
Another stoppage or two occurred before reaching Ostrom's
hotel, at Three Rivers, at 9 p. m., when the snow-roads were
in good condition. There an ample fare was provided for
the numbed travellers, whose first care, on reaching, con
sisted in asking for the coup d'app'etit, a glass of West India
Shrub — a stimulant much in request in those days —
unknown in ours — or a tumbler of sangree (mulled wine.)
At dinner, some of McCallum's or Molson's prime ale was
served in foaming tankards. When the Judge was travelling
on circuit with a few members of the Bar, His Honor

(1) At the breaking up ofthe winter roads in April, travel would
by^necessity, nearly cease for a week or two : and travellers, being
few, the culinary department, at the way side Inn, suffered in a cor
responding ratio. Loud were the complaints at this season, of the
unlucky travellers, A well remembered Quebeoer — that incurable
practical joker, Solicitor General Charles Ogden, —having to attend
the criminal term in Montreal, in April — , stopped for dinner at 
An ancient shanghai rooster was sensed, so tough, so forbidding
in aspect that, the Solicitor General and confrere, instantly ordered,
by way of staving off hunger — an omelette, am, lard. " I will yet be
even " quietly remarked the Canadian jurist — on leaving the Inn : —
Madame, never treated me so." The two travellers reached safely
Montreal that night.
The Court being over. Solicitor General Ogden aud his confrire
iook the Blue line to return to Quebec, stopping, as usual for dinner,
at the lun at  -n'here the week previous they had fared so poorly,
when, Lo I and hehold their dread enemy, the old rooster, made again
his appearance on the dinner table, Mr, Ogden, assuming one of his
most tragic airs, vowed he could not dine without roustard and
asked for the mustard pot — : the mustard pot was hunted for high
and low : Madame insisting she herself had placed it on the table.
The eminent jurist, turning round sharply towards the mistress of
the Inn,— said " I do declare, this is the old cock, served, to us
last week, and I can prove what I say." Madame became pale with
rage or dismay, when Ogden, turning over the inauspicious fowl,
inserted his /ori: in the inside and pulled out triumphantly the corpus
delicti, the missing mustard pot inserted by him, surreptitiously, in
the rooster, the week previous ! Tableau !

— 67 —
-would occasionally order a beverage easily obtainable then,
but difficult to procure at present, a bottle of sound
Madeira. A rubber of whist, a cigar and then to bed, in
order to start a fresh, in the grey morning, so as reach at 9 p.
m., at the end of the remaining 90 miles, Dumaine's livery
stables, Montreal, where the tired horses were stabled, after
having been changed for fresh ones four times in the
course of the day.
The travellers at the end of the journey would separate,
sometimes reluctantly, after summing up pleasantly the
number of upsets, they had had in snow-drifts, recaUing with
loud guffaws the energetic and numerous sacres, uttered by
the impatient Jehu each time he had to turn his horses in
the snow to make a rencontre and occasionally to unharness
and hitch on again his sturdy roadsters.
Five hours of smart driving with the Red Line of stages,
had brought me to the picturesque banks of the river Port
neuf, about 40 miles from Quebec. I had crossed the lofty
Jacques Cartier bridge, scanned the commanding position,
viewed with interest the half-filled ditches of the historic
Fort Jacques Cartier, which on the 14th September, 1759,
sheltered the panic-striken, bedraggled French squadrons,
in full rout from the conquering foe, then bivouacked on
the Plains of Abraham ; here, the brave Marquis of Alber-
gotti took his stand and successfully defied Murray's clay
mores untill the i^t September of the following year. The
site of this old fort is very accurately described in 'Chevalier
Johnstone's Memoirs of the siege, re-published by the Lite
rary and Historical Society of Quebec. It was indeed the
best rallying point the French troops could secure, prepara
tory to the final attack on Quebec, on the 28th April, 1760,
a victory which in the end was tantamount to a defeat. On
the eastern shore of the Jacques Cartier, there e.xists still
structures and unmistakable traces of the vast miUs esta
blished there by the wealthy Allsop family as early as 1773.

— 68 —
Fabulous sums seem to have been spent in developing the
timber trade in this locality. But let us hie on to a spot rich
in ancient lore — once sacred to Baronial pride, and to those
multifarious burthens and restrictions in the tenure of land,
of which Hon. L.-T. Drummond, by act of Parliament,
relieved us in 1854. God be praised !
Here, on the banks ofthe river Portneuf, flourished two
centuries and a half back a whole race of warlike, proud
French seigneurs raised to be Barons by Louis XIV ; here,
lived Sieur Pierre Robineau, seigneur de Portneuf, as early as
1636, and his noted son, Baron Rene Robineau, the father
of a patriarchal family of children, nine in number, appar
ently as full of mischief as the boys of our own time. His
tory t^ells of the wicked tricks they played on their father's
censitaires by frightening them out of their senses, with
the pack of ferocious hounds kept at the Manor, osten
sibly to protect its inmates from Iroquois' treachery. The
peaceful settlers of Portneuf dare not pass the Manor, and
not without reason. The Seigniorial hounds, on one occa
sion, nearly ate up an unfortunate old squaw. (Histoire du
Cap Sante, page 34.) Martial tastes ever distinguished the
race. Seigneur Pierre Robineau in his youth served in
France as an ensign in the great Turenne's regiment. The
future- Baron returned from France in 1644, after holding a
commission in a French regiment of dragoons. His father
was a member of the Company of One Hundred Partners
founded by Richelieu in 1627, to whom the French King
had ceded Canada. Attracted by the richly wooded coun
try and by the eel, sturgeon and salmon fisheries on the
Portneuf, he settled there and raade clearings.
The title to the land was signed in 1647 only, and not in
his favor, but in tavor of Sieur de la Potherie, whose daughter
he married on the 7th July, 167 1 ; the land was ceded by
deed, on behalf of the great monarch of France to Rdnd
Robineau, the son of Pierre. In 1681, as a reward for meri-

— 69 —
torious services rendered by father and son, the signiory of
Portneuf was erected as a Barony ; R.6n6 Robineau became
by Royal letters-patent. Baron de Portneuf.
The Barony, however, was not without its internal trials,
social as well as foreign : of course, the main enemy conti
nued to be the ubiquitous Iroquois. Discord and civil strife
soon crept in, under guises which would not be considered
insuperable to-day. The annals of the adjoining parish of
Cap Santd, recently collected in book form by one of its
venerable pastors, R^v. M. Gatien, under the supervision of
a fellow of the Royal Canadian Society, Abb^ Casgrain,
disclose among others, an incident which at the time shook
the settlement to its base. " In 1709, an inhabitant of Port
neuf, publicly taxed one Perrot, who lived at Deschambault,
with being a " bald head, " un pelt. The chronicler adds
that such really was the case ; " like Chicot, mentioned by
the historian Faillon, who survived the loss of his scalp,
Perrot being pretty tough had survived also the loss of his
wig, love locks to boot ; the scalping having been done by
those exquisite operators, the Iroquois, with remarkable
nicety, one would imagine.
By some curious process of reasoning, the charge was
considered by the Deschambault folks, a dire insult to the
whole settlement, one which blood alone could wipe off.
Preparations were made for the fray ; the fight to come
off on the feast of Pentecoste. Soon the news of the impend
ing struggle reached the ears of the Intendant and Minister
of Justice, at Quebec ; Jacques Raudot, was not an official
to be trifled with. He forthwith put forth an ordonnance
which was to be read at the church door, inflicting impri
sonment and a fine of six livres against any one mixing
himself up with the fray. The capitaine de la cote was also
instructed to forward to Quebec — in chains possibly — the
culprits. War was thus averted aed peace at last restored
between the belligerents. Intendant Raudot appears to
5

— 70 —
have had other troubles of less magnitude, which, with a
few ordonnances, he succeeded in quelling, such as the
order of presenting the pain beni (holy bread) on Sundays,
&c., &c.
To revert to the Portneuf feudal magnates. Several sons
and grandsons of Baron Portneuf took up military service
in the colony. A worthy descendant, the Rev. Rene Robi
neau, parish priest of St Joachim, fell during the siege of
1759, on the 23rd August, whilst leading on bravely his
parishioners against the invaders of the soil. Another per
ished in 1 76 1, on the coast of Newfoundland, in the melan
choly shipwreck of the ill-fated " Auguste," whilst returning
to France. The seigniory of Portneuf, after changing hands
several times, was acquired by the Ursuhne Nuns of Que
bec, in 1744. These ladies held it many years. Later on, it
was purchased by the late George Burns Symes, of Quebec.
At his death this fine property reverted to his daughter
Clara, at present the Marquise de Bassano.

QUEBEC TO DESCHAMBAULT.
TJie Deschambault Manor — Its Past and Present.
In my last I described a pleasant winter trip to Portneuf,
by the old Red and Blue lines of stages, extinct more than
thirty years ago.
I have a few words to say respecting a delightful visit I
made by railway recently to the old seigniorial manor of
Deschambault, in the sunny month of June. Deschambault,
Cap Lauzon, as it is styled on old charts, contains a beauti
ful cape studded with trees. It lies on the north shore of
the St. Lawrence, forty-five miles from Quebec. An agri
cultural district, it was not favored by the profuse expendi
ture of money, on behalf of Quebec merchants, like Portneuf
by Mr. McNider, in 1805, by W.-B. Coltman, a leading St
Peter street merchant, in 1806, and subsequently by the
late Hon. E. Hale
The first seigniors, Jacques Alex. Fleury, seigneur d'Es-
chambault and Joseph Fleury, seigneur De la Gorgen-
-dihre, were importahlt personages in New France, in their
day, under English rule. Louis- Joseph Deschambault, who
¦had retired to France with his aunt, the Marquise de Vau
dreuil, was named Aide-de-Camp. There is little, however,
here or elsewhere, to remind one of their doings in feudal
times, in Canada. Seigniorial dues having been commuted
in 1854, by Act of Parliament, no noisy coops of crowing
cocks and hens, chapons vifs et en plumes, are driven now by
the peasantry to the seigniorial manor, at Michaelmas ; as

— 72 —
of old, the eleventh fish caught in the river is not handed
to the Lord of the manor.
A peasant can keep tame pigeons without fear of a fine ,*:
he may even grind his corn whenever he likes, cook his
bread when, how and where he thinks proper. These
memories of a dim, unregretted past are rapidly fading away.
Here and there we may collect from tradition episodes
ofthe great conflict in 1759, between France and England,
narratives of the passage of Arnold's ruthless invaders in
1775-6. One thing however, to regret, is the gradual disap
pearance of the old seigniorial manors ; one so loves the old
manors. There are, however, some few exceptions to the
rule. It is pleasant to record them, and commend the spirit
of the proprietors in endeavoring to preserve the few links
that yet connect the past with our own times.
The present possessor of the manor of Deschambault,
Mr. G.-M. Fairchild, jr., has the spirit of the antiquarian
and an intense love for old traditions and customs ; the
manor so long as it remains in his hands will rear its hoary
head, undisturbed by the vandalism of modern architects.
One bright, early June morning, when all nature seemed
alive with joyous revelry in the warm sunshine of young;
summer, I stepped from the train at Portneuf Station and
was cheerily greeted by my friend S . . . . , who was there
with his buckboard, to drive rae to Deschambault
The road from the station is down a tortuous hill along;
side the noisy, brawling, madly tumbling, foam-covered
Portneuf river, entering its final race ere emptying into the
St. Lawrence. What a delicious green the fields have taken
on ! and how fresh the young verdure of the maple and birch
beside the hemlock's deeper tint ! Among the softly mur
muring pines and balsams of the higher hillside, I hear my
little friend, the white-throated sparrow, uttering in clear
tones : Sow-the wheat I sow-the wheat 1 1 sow-the wheat I / 1
but with his accustomed shyness, keeping well out of sight.

— 73 —
.After a glimpse of a mill through the trees, and a short
nJistance further on, we come upon the old grist mill that in
years gone by contributed many a sack of flour towards the
supply of England, now alas ! doing very little more than
grinding up oats for the neighbouring farmers. A dusty
meal-covered miller sticks his head out of a window and
wishing us a bonjour I returns to his work. A few moments
more, and we come to the village of Portneuf cosily nestled
under the hill on the bank of the St. Lawrence. A little
wheezy market boat is tied to the wharf, and the entire popu
lation of the place has turned out to ¦^^i.coxae Josette or speed
Baptiste, or bargain and barter for all kinds and sorts of
farm produce. We pass the pretty little church, and the
presbytery where Abbd Provencher wrote his work " La
Flore Canadienne. " Did Herr Peter Kalm botanize here in
1749 ? How I should have enjoyed botanizing through the
neighboring fields and woods, I thought ! The seigniory of
Portneuf was created a barony in 1681. It belonged to Che
valier Rdn^ Robineau. He is mentioned as being exceed
ingly prosperous, inasmuch as he thoroughly understood
the needs of his people.
Canadian Barons' were permitted scaffolds, jibbets, whip-
^ng-posts — , prisons and other civilizing apparatus. Did
the pompous old Baron have either, or did he consider him-
¦self safe inside of his massive walls with his fierce hounds ?
Who can tell ?
The country seat of the learned Sir James Stuart (he
expired in 1853) Baronet, in his lifetime Chief Justice of
Lower Canada, is on a plateau on the right of our road and .
commmands a fine view up and down the river. It is a subs
tantial stone building and was much resorted to by the old
Baronet in his closing years. The property is now owned by .
the Sewell Bros., grandsons of the great Chief Justice
Jonathan Sewell.

_ 74 —
We are now in the parish of Deschambault, and to the
left ofthe road on a long point of land jutting into the river,
stands the Manor of Deschambault, with its numerous out
buildings looking not unlike a small village. The house is
massive stone building,some ninety feet frontage with a piazzai
extending around three sides of it It stands within fifty feet
of the St. Lawrence, and as it is but some fifteen feet above
high water mark, its proximity to the river lends an addi-
tial charm to it. The rooms are low, studded with massive
floor beams blackened with age. Open fire places abound'
in which in ye olden time vast fires were kept up in winter.
Some of the division walls in the house are of heavy ma
sonry with curious little closets let in. The house is full of
strange nooks. A valuable fishery is attached to the pro
perty, and a small artificial pond near the house is full of
living fish taken from the weirs. There are but few finer
snipe grounds in Canada than a little higher up the beach,
and as for ducks and geese in the spring and fall they are
legion. What an ever changing scene the river presents, as one
views it from the piazza ! Now it is an ocean-steamer proud
ly breasting the current of the Richelieu rapids and leaving
behind her a vast trail of smoke and foam, while descending;
the rapids is a small fleet of lateen-rigged batteaux driving
along like race-horses under the influence of favoring wind
and current, followed perhaps by a large raft of square
timber covered with small sails and cabanes, before which
burn bright wood-fires, and to our ears comes faintly the
sound of a violin. The tide is almost out and quaint weed-
covered rocks rear their heads throughout the bay ; the
river contracts ; yon distant island, a wee speck at high
water, now joins the main land. The scene changes ; the
tide rushes up, and meeting head winds and the rapids, a-
heavy sea rises and the water is covered with white caps.. ,
Dark clouds gather in the west and come swiftly forward,.

— 75 —
and the thunder, in angry voice, gives warning of a heavy
shower and squalls. The water turns dark and threatening
and the small craft hasten to shorten sail and make things
snug. The storm breaks, and while we sit behind the closed
windows, watchtng it, we see two large waterspouts form and
go tearing across the river to break on the opposite bank.
It is but a summer shower and soon disappears down the
river, andthe late afternoon sun breaking out again, bathes
the opposite shore in a flood of crimson light reflected from
littly foamy cascades that break over the cliffs.
Pointe Platon House, Seignor Joly's happy home,
shows its roof and chimneytops above the trees. The spire
of the Church at Cap Santd is fairly ablaze. The village and
beautiful Church of Deschambault, on the high point, are
brifliantly outlined against the western sky,the whole forming
a coup d'ceil of surpassing beauty.
Mr. Fairchild (i) intends shortly, 'tis said, to retire from

(1) George M. Fairchild, jr., is indeed quite a voluminous writer
on lake, forest and field sports. For years, a copious contributor to
the colums of Forest and Stream, and other sporting magazines, he is
an especial favorite with the lover of rod, gun and snow shoe.
Possessed of good descriptive powers, a keen observer, there is an
odour of the pine grove pervading his pages, in which you may
occasionally detect the murmur of the waterfall and tally-ho of the
hunter : let us hope, he will soon set to rescue, from the columns of
magazines and periodicals his graceful sketches of forest life in the
Laurentian range, north of our city. The following are some of his
best effusions, which ere long will be collected in permanent form
Winter Sports in Canada  1873
Summer Sports in Canada  1874
Quebec to Lake St. John  1 874
A snow shoe tramp to the .Sagueriay River  3875
Winter Life in the Fa,r North  1876
Camip Fires in the Far North  1876
On the Jacques Cartier  1876
Salf Hours with Christopher North in his shooting Jacket  1878
Caribou hunting in Canada  ¦  1880
Notes of an Angler in the North  1881
Trout tails and snow shoe trails  1888
« Canadian Leaves " that rare volume of good things was brought

_ 76 —
active commercial pursuits in New York and take up his
permanent residence in the Manor. With his literary tastes
and fine library of Canadian works, he is likely to make the
old house a Mecca for our litterateurs and students of Cana
dian history, and again shall it rise from out of the past and
be known of men .
28th June, 1888.

out under Mr, Fairchild's editorship, as was Notes on the Jesuits, a
M. S. S., belonging to the Neilson Estate.
Our snow shoe clubs and Canadian litterati are indebted to the
President of the Oritani Snow Shoe Club and Vice-President of the
Canadian Club of New-YorTc, for various courtesies and for the open
handed hospitality, extended to them, when visiting the Empire
city. Haokensack, Mr. Fairchild's country seat nerr the Hudson
recalls to his Canadian friends, many pleasant memories.
" Clickety-click, our snowshoes say,
And over the hills and far away
We leave dull care for another day,
Aud quickly and joyously take our way.
Through the woods, with their mantle deep,
Through the swamps in their winter sleep.
In single file, with cheeks aglow.
We leave our trail in the sparkling snow.
Clickety-click, our snowshoes say."
(.From a Snowshoe Song by O. M. Fairchild, Jr.)

The President of the Oritanis in his Sporting Jacket.

MEGANTIC.

Megantic — its pioneers — its asbestos mines — its beau
tiful lakes — Dr. D.-H. Howard's map.
Inverness, 7th March, 1889.
A rapid change has taken place in the weather, it is more
than moist ; old Sol went down in tears ; in fact, it has
turned to rain. No chance of any outside barbarian invad
ing our little parlor in this snug wayside Inn.
Let us take advantage of the hush of the evening to con
fide to our trusty diary, our glimpses during the past week,
of Megantic, amidst its breezy hills.
How delightful it was during the severe weather of yester
day, warmly clad, to skjm briskly in a well eqjaipped cutter,
over the Alpine drifts — our cn^- thoroiighfares at this
season ! Winter too has its sunshine^
To a native in good health, the grating of the " beau
tiful " crackling under the steel runners, accompanied with
the lively tinkle of the sleigh bells, recalls the winter joys of
his boyhood, the " trotting " match — the snowshoe tramp
— the toboggan sHde onr the village common.
Here we are comfortably housed for the night in that
favored section of our rugged, but fair, land of the north,
styled the Eastern townships ; a little kingdom of itself, of
bush, pasturage, lake, mountain and valley, watered by
several deep or rapid rivers, and by innumerable trout
streams : the St. Francis, the Coalicook, the Becancour,

— 78 —
the Nicolet, the Beaurivage, the Chaudiere, the Etchemin,.
and their tributaries.
In the days when our famous wheat lands of the west
were but a howling wilderness, this expanse rejoiced in the
proud appellation of the Garden of Lower Canada. Its
hardy settlers hailed from England, Scotland, Ireland, the
Orkneys — a concrete raass leavened by the sturdy descen
dants of the United Empire Loyalists from beyond the
border and by a sprinkling of French Canadians ; they
hewed their way, the brave fellows, through the maple and
pine groves, at the dawn ofthe century, (i)
Where stood of yore, fhe solitary log hut of 1802, now
looms out the roomy farm-house, surrounded by orchards,
meadows, cattle sheds, with the little Kirk or parish church
peeping oyer the hill close by.
" Stand where'er you will,surrounding you the homesteads are abound- [mg-
And the curling smoke ascending from the chimneys everywhere ;
You may hear the roosters crowing, bleating sheep, and cattle lowing
And the woodman's axe resounding through the forests here and
[there."
(A. McKiLLOP.)
Several extensive counties have been created : Arthabaska
and Drummond, Megantic, Wolfe, Compton, Richmond;
Date of some of the Government grants.
(1) Inverness, Sir E,-S. Milnes, Wm, McGilvraj, 9th Aug, 1802.
Wolfestown, Sir R,-S, Milnes, Nicholas Montour, 14th Aug. 1802
Thetford, Sir R.-S. Milnes, Dr. John Mervin Nooth, 10th Nov. 1802
Broughton, Sir E.-S. Milnes, Henry Jenkins and W. Hall, 20th
Oct. 1800
Tring, Sir E,-S, Milnes, sundry persons, 20th July 1804.
Nelson, Sir R,-S, Milnes, officers aud privates, Can, Militia, 21st
April 1804.
Halifax, Sir 'R.-S. Milnes, Benjamin Jobert, 1st Aug 1802.
Compton, Sir E.-S. Milnes, Jesse Pennoyer, 13th Aug. 1802.
Somerset, Sir E.-S. Milnes, officers.
Framptou, Sir James-Heniy Craig, sundry persons, 9th Sept. 1808.
Leeds, Sir George Prevost, George Hamilton, 7th Dec. 1812.

— 79 —
picturesque villages, mining locations of fabulous wealth %
Inverness, Leeds, Coleraine, Thetford, Broughton, Tring,
Nelson, Somerset, &c.
Beauce, the adjoining county, has its Pactolus, perhaps^
two ; its auriferous streams, the Gilbert and the Famine.
Megantic is equally proud, and rightly so, of its asbestos
and antimony mines, &c.
Forty years have nearly elapsed since the railway breathed
here the spirit of life, and lo ! the portals of the honored
region were opened to the outer world ; first, the Quebec
and Richmond division of the Grand Trunk Railway ; next,
the Quebec Central, forerunners both of other lines to follow,
now actively pushed forward. Boston evidently will soon be
tapped direct and open out a short rout.
The soil of the Eastern Townships is not however uni
formly fertile ; it is in many places rocky and poor. A great
portion is suitable for the growth of cereals and root crops;
a still greater tract is well adapted for pasturage and grazing
Sherbrooke, Quebec and Montreal get some of their choicest
Easter joints from the Eastern Townships, whilst Enghsh
and American capital seeks investment in their exhaustless
mineral deposits and Canadian merchants export to Bri
tain, the valuable products of their forests.
The exuberant harvests of our western territory has had
a disquieting effect on the old country yeomanry of the
Eastern Townships ; several, of late years have dreamed of a
new Eldorado in the wheat fields of Manitoba — in the ran
ches of Calgary — even in the sheep walks of British
Columbia. '•' Go West, young man " Horace Greely's stirring
advice has also been dinned in the willing ear of the sons of
the hardy Megantic farmer of other days.
Jean Baptiste having discovered that his farm on the
Lower St. Lawrence, exhausted by two centuries of remor
seless and unskilful tillage, threatened to give out, was
ready to purchase land in the Eastern Townships for his

— 80 —
heirs, sold with mild regret, his long, narrow strip of worn
out soil, where rotary crops and artificial fertilizers were
unknown and resigned himself to become a landed pro
prietor under the free and common soccage tenure of
Megantic, Compton, Richmond, &c ; thus, township estates
have rapidly changed hands of late years. At present the
R. C. Chapel stands side by side with the temple of Pro
testant worship. It will require their united prayers to dis
pel some of the clouds gathered by politicians over the soil.
The population of the county of Megantic foots up to
22,000 ; Inverness counts about 360 souls, one quarter
of which are of French lineage.
J ust as I was preparing to fasten the clasp of my cherished
diary, regretting, I had not tirae to note more about Megan
tic, I received a very welcome visit. Mr. D.-H. Howard,
the active and intelligent young editor of the Weekly
Review, having heard that I was desirous of learning some
thing about the annals and mining resources of the place,
kindly called and submitted for my inspection a map of
that section of the country, most carefully prepared by
himself, showing the boundaries of the adjoining counties
and even, each lot in detail, as laid out and miniatured on
the Township Cadastral plans, of record in the Registry
¦Office, on which he had' inscribed every county or parish
road ; conspicuous among them, I could follow the old
mihtary road, the Craig Road, cut out to the frontier, in
1809, by direction of Sir James-Henry Craig, then Gover
nor-General of Canada, (i)
The two railway lines were also clearly indicated.

(1) Traced out originally, in 1800, by Joseph Kilborne, Deputy
Provincial Land Surveyor, at the expense of Joseph Frobisher and
¦other land holders in the townships through which it passes ; in 1809,
detachements of troops were employed in clearing and making the
road and erecting bridges over the rivers. — (Bouchette, p. 572.)

— 81 —
Let us hope the Province, or the Railway or Mining
Companies, will take hold of such a valuable map — assume
it and by having it printed, render it available to the public.
Mr. Howard was good enough to furnish me with infor
mation of the several mining companies now working the
asbestos and antimony Mines in Megantic, Thetford, Cole
raine, Broughton, &c. I have pleasure in mentioning the
leading companies,
Johnson's Company, Bell's Asbestos Mining Co. (Limit
ed). King Bros., Ward Bros, and Ross, (lately disposed of),
Anglo Canadian Asbestos Mining Co., the Megantic Mining
Co., Frechette Mining Co., W.-H. Larably, La Compagnie
Minifere de Coleraine, Dr. James Reed, Louis Werthiem,
Scottish Canadian Asbestos Co., Thetford Mining Co.,
Johnston and Loomis.

THE MEGANTIC LAKES
"/Have you heard of great Megantic, where the sights are so romantic 7
That the traveller often lingers on the landscape he admires ;
Stands to view the winding river, while the balmy breezes quiver.
On the vast extending vista, where the vision never tires.
There are rough and rugged mountains, there are floods and flowing
[fountains,
There are lovely lakes expanding in the valley to be seen ;
There are peaks that cast their shadows over undulating meadows,
But the winter scene is grandest where the woods are ever green.
In the dark'ning distance yonder, there are hills that stood the
[thunder
Of the ages long departed ere this continent Was known ;
Lofty woodlands most enchanting, sylvan ranges gently slanting
Downward,to the chain of waters that for centuries have flown." (l)
A, MoKiLLOP.

(1) Suggested during a sleigh ride over the hills that overlook
Lake Joseph and the valley of the Thames, to the beautiful estate
of the late Coi. Chas. Campbell, near the Village of St. Ferdinand,
on the shores of Lake William, Halifax.

— 82 —
" Truly has the bard said, the landscape of Megantic is
most lovely ; but though the hills and dales, mountains and
valleys are grandly beautiful, yet they are eclipsed by the
charming aspect of the lakes, that run through the county
— four in a string, pearls on the " Thames " necklace ; the
•upper one. Black Lake, is situate in a wild region, full of
• minerals and where now are worked several rich asbestos
quarries. A few miles further down runs Trout Lake, well
deserving its name, and below that again, its waters emptying
themselves into Lake William, one of the most lovely lakes
to be seen in the wide universe ; both hidden between high
mountains, clothed to their summits, in summer, with the
most luxuriant vegetation, where abound the stately elm, the
wide spreading black birch, the magnificent maple without a
branch for 40 or 50 feet, from the ground and then branching
out with enormous hmbs that keep other giants ofthe forest
at a distance and make these woods have a park-like appear
ance. Here and there, the mighty pine, cedar and spruce
give variety lo the monotony that would otherwise be, if there
were but one description of timber. The lake itself is about
5 miles long and from ^ to tJ^ broad, having the most
lovely points or capes as seamen would call them, jetting out
into its waters and which form picturesque bays which pre
sent even on stormy days when the outer-water is studded
with white caps, a placid and mirror-like appearance, so pro
tected are they by the woods or hills that surround them,
from every breeze that otherwise might rufile their surface.
In one of the recesses of these sunny bays, has sprung up
within a' couple of decades, the large village of St Ferdinand,
with its stately church, seminary, convent and various fac
tories, surrounded with prettily designed houses and cot
tages, and where " all save the spirit of man is divine. " When
first the traveller catches a glimpse of this romantically
situated village, when topping the crest of the hill on the
Gosford Road, from which he looks down upon it and the
Bay, he becomes lost in bewilderment at the beauty of the
scene, and if, at the time when the Angelus bell might on a
still evening be ringing, his senses become enraptured by the
musical chimes which air, water and the eternal hills echo,
throw back and assert that an omniscient One reigns, and
gives, to us, poor mortals on earth, a faint view of paradise.
Truly St. Ferdinand is a favored spot.

— 83 —
" And lastly comes Lake Joseph or as the Scotch who
settled upon it, call it. Loch Lomond ; it vies with Lake
William, in its beauty, but lacks its breadth."
" One of the most impressive scenes, the writer ever wit
nessed, happened upon its shore, more than twenty years
ago. A revival had taken place in the township among the
Baptists on a Sunday, in the month of February, with the
thermometer indicating 20° below zero ; a hole about 30
feet by 10 feet was cut in the ice, close to the banks of the
lake and there stood around it, a crowd of stern, ascetic
looking people, reminding one of those who contended with
Claverhouse, in the days of the Covenanters. From this
crowd surged out continually candidates for immersion and
in this icy bath were they received, and completely immersed,
JDOth men and women. The intensity of the cold was such
that men were employed with poles to keep the water free
of the ice, continually forming and yet though the distance
which they had to go to obtain shelter, and a change of
clothing was at least 100 yards, so great was the effect of
the religious ceremony on their minds that none of them, as
far as could be learned, experienced any ill effects from
this hyperborean bath.
" Claymore. "

BEAUCE.— (Ste. MARIE.)

VIII
The Foot-prints ofthe Invader in 1775.
" There was much mortality amongst the bullocks, sheep and pigs of
Beauce this year (1775) ; our hen roosts suffered equaUy."
(From the Diary of a Beauce farmer.)
Much respected reader, hoping you have rallied from the
hardships of our recent trip and that you are ready to accom
pany us in the leafy season through the gorges of Bic,
revelling amidst the weird and majestic scenery of the
Lower St. Lawrence, as far and farther, than Matane and
Metis, " the land of the Gael," we will, with your leave,
indulge in a short ramble nearer home. Come then and
view the picturesque Chaudifere Valley, " following the
winding of the river to the parish of St. Mary, straggling
through a flat and rich country," having at present, as it
appears to have had in the days of Benedict Arnold,
according to Bancroft, " for ils ornament many low, bright,
white-washed houses, the comfortable abodes of a cheerful,
courteous and hospitable people.''
You are now within the district of La Nouvelle Beauce,
not than sunny Beauce of old France, " the land of corn,
wine and oil," but the Beauce of New France, wheat and
gold producing, rich in its alluvial pasturages, mineral
deposits, populous ; and though skirling the classic soil of
wooden-nutmegs, hickory hams, spiritualism, lynch law, and
woman's rights, as yet untainted with the virus of demo
cracy !

— 85 —
Several parishes : St. Isidore, St. Malachie, Ste. Claire,
St. Anselme, St. Elz^ar, Ste. Marguerite, St. Edouard, Ste.
Henedine, Ste. Marie, St. Joseph, St. Francois, St George ;
half a score of populous townships, Tring, Broughton, St.
Ephrem, Buckland, compose the judicial district of Beauce
— a substantially built Court House and jail, looming from
the top of the heights, mark out St. Joseph as the judicial
centre, chef-lieu or county town, as it would be styled
amongst our brethren of Ontario.
In this spacious temple of Themis, surrounded by his
not overworked judicial officials. Coroner, Sheriff, Protho-
notary, &c.. His Honor, Mr. Justice Pelletier, — holds
forth his quaterly sittings, with that suavity of manner pecu
liar to the race he sprang from. During term, the lawyers
following Circuit, generally put up at one or the other
of the two village hotels, close to the Court House. The
echoes of Beauce still repeat the practical jokes and good
humored chaff, exchanged in winter between the gent
lemen of the long robe, at their petits soupers, in which
fromage raffini, and London stout were constant guests.
We all know that lawyers on Circuit understand how to
enjoy themselves, even if old Judges Cockburn and Bar
rington had failed to tell us.
But amidst this gossip, I was forgetting that I intend to
make this letter chiefly, if not entirely, historical in its aim.
We shall then, you and I, go in for history.
I soon struck a sympathetic cord with the Ancient
Canadians, who have " a habitation and a name " on the
fertile banks of the Chaudiere. Il was only necessary to tell
them I was curious of hearing all about la guerre des Bas
tonnais, of which their forefathers must have known a great
deal. Many were the traditions handed down of that eventful
period ; thrilling were the souvenirs of war and plunder
poured in my willing ear.

— 86 --
To satisfy one worthy villager, I had actually to walk a
long distance fiom my hotel at St. Mary, to see the spot
where stood the seignorial manor of Seigneur Gabi iel Elziar
Taschereau, who, for having been true to his allegiance, had
his goods and chattells seized and sold afauction by Arnold's
soldiery — the raen, whom nothing but " love of country, "
as Bancroft says, had led across our border. " At a farm
close by, " said one of my cicerones, " on the proprietor
coming from church on a fine Sunday in November, 1775,
he was surprised to find the fat porker he intended for his
Christmas dinner and jours gras with his throat cut, and a
row of fat chickens and gobblers, who would gobble no
more, surrounding the porker, with a squad of Bastonnais
wearing long knives, looking on." It is now more than one
hundred years since the '¦ horsedealer " Arnold came pouring
down along the Kennebec, with his shoeless, half-starved
bands of " tavern-keepers, blacksmiths, butchers, tanners,
hatters," all " pretending to be gentlemen, and whora, every
man jack of them, the great historian Bancroft, with a wave
of his magic wand, transforms into heroes.
How singular, too, that a very trifling incident — the
change of a word — should have added so much to the
extraordinary terror which the modern Attila and his iron
clad Huns were spreading in the Chaudiere Valley, " Each
man *** bore a nfle-barrelled gun, a tomahawk or small
axe, and a long knife, usually called a scalping knife, which
served for all purposes in the woods. His under-dress, by
no means in a military style, was covered by a deep ash-co
lored hunting shirt, leggings and mocassins, if the latter
could be procured *** " (Henry' s Journal.)
" The Canadians who first saw these (raen) emerge from
the woods, said they were vetus en toile — clothed in linen.
The word toile was changed to tole — iron plate By a
mistake of a single word, the fears of the people were
greatly increased, for the news spread that the mysterious

— 8T —
army that descended from the wilderness was clad in sheet-
iron." (Lossing's Field Book I, p. 195."
The several journals of the expedition published by the
Rhode Island Historical Society, by our own I jterary and
Historical Society — the comprehensive work of the Hono
rable George Bancroft, affords us ample data on this
unlucky and desperate venture : — " The detachment (t)
which Washington, as he thoughtfully brooded over the
future, without hope of a speedy termination of the war, sent
against Quebec, consisted of ten companies of New England
infantry, one of riflemen, from Virginia, and two from Penn
sylvania, in all two battalions of about eleven hundred men.
The command was given to Arnold, who, as a trader in
years past, had visited Quebec, where he still had corres
pondents. In person he was short of stature, and of a
florid complexion ; his broad, compact frame displayed a
strong animal nature and power of endurance ; he was
complaisant and persuasive in his manners ; daringly and
desperately brave ; avaricious and profuse ; grasping but
not sordid; sanguinely hopeful ; of restless activity ; "intel
ligent and enterprising.'' The next in rank, as Lieutenant-
Colonels, were Roger Enos, who proved to be a craven,
and the brave Christopher Greene, of Rhode Island. The
Majors were Return J. Meigs, of Connecticut, and Timothy
Bigelow, the early patriot of Worcester, Massachusetts.
Morgan, with Humphreys and Heth, led the Virginian rifle
men ; Hendricks, a Pennsylvanian company ; Thayer com
manded one from Rhode Island ; and like Arnold, Meigs,
Dearborn, Henry Senter, Melvin, left a journal of the
expedition. Aaron Burr, then but nineteen years old, and
his friend Mathias Ogden, carrying muskets and knapsacks,
joined as volunteers. Samuel Spring attended as chaplain.
Boats and provisions having been collected, the detachment,
Q.) Bancroft's History of the United States.

— 88 —
on the evening of the 13th September, marched to Bedford..
On the 19th, they sailed from Newburyport, and on the
morning of the 2olh were borne into the Kennebec. They
passed the bay where that river and the Androscoggin hold
their " merry meeting ; " on the 21st they reached the two-
block-houses, and one large house, enclosed with pickets^
which stood on the east bank of the river, then known as
Fort Western, on the site of Augusta. An exploring party
of seven men went in advance to discover the shortest
carrying place from the Kennebec to the Dead River, one
of its branches, along a path which had already been
marked, but which tjiey made more distinct by blazing the
trees and snagging the bushes. The detachment followed
in four divisions in as many successive days. Each division
took provisions for forty-five days ; on the 25 th, Morgan?
and the riflemen were sent first to clear the path ; the fol
lowing day Greene and Bigelow started with three com
panies of musketeers ; Meigs, with four companies, was next
in order ; Enos, with three companies, closed the rear.
" They ascended the river slowly to Fort Halifax, oppo
site Waterville ; daily up lo their waists in water, hauling
their boats against a very rapid current. On the 4th of
October they passed the vestiges of an Indian chapel, a
fort and the grave of the missionary, Rasle, (who died in
1724). After they took leave ofthe settlements and houses
at Norridgewach, the fatiguing and hazardous course lay up
the swift Kennebec, and they conveyed arms and stores
through the thick woods of a rough, uninhabited and almost
trackless wild ; now rowing, now dragging their boats, now
bearing thera on their backs round rapids and cataracts,
across raorasses, over craggy highlands. On thie nth, the
party reached the dividing ridge between the Kennebec and
the Dead River. Tht ir road now lay through forests of
pines, balsam, fir, cedar, cypress, hemlock and yellow birch,
and over three ponds that lay hid among the trees, and
were filled with trout. After passing these, they had no
choice but to bear their boats, baggage, stores and ammu
nition across a swamp, which was overgrown with bushes

— 89 -
;and white moss, often sinking knee-deep in the wet turf and
bogs. From Dead River, Arnold, on the 13th, wrote to the
¦commander of the Northern army, announcing his plan of
co-operation. Of his friends in Quebec he inquired as to
the number of troops at Quebec, what ships were there, and
-what was the disposition of the Canadians and merchants,
«nd he forwarded his letter by an Indian.
" On the 15th October, the main body were on the banks
of the Dead River ; following its direction a distance of
eighty-three miles, encountering upon it seventeen falls,
large enough to make portages necessary, and near its course
a series of small ponds choked with fallen trees, in ten or
twelve days more they arrived at the great carrying place at
the Chaudiere. On the way they heard the disheartening
news that Enos, the second in command, had deserted the
¦enterprise, leading back three companies to Cambridge.
Yet, the diminished party, enfeebled by sickness and deser
tion, with scanty food, and little ammunition, srtill perse
vered in their purpose to appear before a citadel, which was
held to be the strongest in North America, and which the
English officers in Canada would surely defend to the last
" The mountains had been clad in snow since September ;
winter was howling around them, and their course was still
to the North. On the night preceding the twenty-eighth of
October, some of the party encamped on the height of land
that divides the waters of the Saint Lawrence and the Atlan
tic. Some went barefooted for days together. Their clothes
ia'd became so torn they were almost naked, and in their
march were lacerated by thorns ; at night they had no
couch or covering but branches of evergreens. Often for
successive days and nights they were exposed to cold.
drenching storms, and had to cross streams that were swell
ing with the torrents of rain. Their provisions failed, so
that they ate the faithful dogs that followed them to the
wilderness. Many a man, vainly struggling to march on,
sank down exhausted, stiffening with cold and death. Here
and there a helpless invalid was left behind, with perhaps a
soldier to hunt for a red squirrel, a jay, or a hawk, or
various roots and plants for his food, and to watch his expir
ing breath. * * * * The men had hauled up their
barges nearly all the way for one hundred and eighty miles,
through hideous woods and mountains, often to their knees

— 90 —
in mire, over swamps and bays almost impenetrable, which
they were obliged to cross three or four times to fetch their
baggage ; and yet, starving, deserted, with an enemy's coun
try and uncertainty ahead, officers and men, inspired with
the love of liberty and their country, pushed on with invin
cible fortitude.
" The foaming Chaudiere hurries swiftly down its rocky
channel. Too eager to descend it quickly, the adventurers
had three of their boats overset in the whirls of the stream,
losing ammunition and precious stores, which they had
brought along with so much toil."
Let us interrupt for a short time Bancroft's glowing.
account of these dauntless heroes — " Officers and men,
influenced with the love of liberty and their country, pushed
on with invincible fortitude," in order to hear the opinion
of an eye witness, Col. Henry Caldwell, one of Wolfe's
veterans, the head of the Canadian Militia : — "A great
part of their army," says he in his letter to Gen. Murray,
" was also composed of Europeans. * * * Of the prisoners
we took, about loo were Europeans, chiefly from Ireland j
the greater part of them engaged voluntarily in Col. Mc
Lean's corps, but about a dozen of them deserting in the
course of a month, the rest were again confined, and not
released till the arrival of the Iris, when they were again
taken into the corps. You can have no conception what
kind of men composed their officers. Of them we took,
one Major was a blacksmith, another a hatter ; of their
Captains, there was a butcher, a tanner, a shoemaker, a
tavern-keeper, &c., &c. Yet they all pretended to be gen
tlemen." Persons who saw the rabble of Pigeon Hill and
Ridgeway, will readily understand of what " illegant gintle-
men " the invading army was coraposed, Bancroft to the
contrary notwithstanding.
April, 1888.

BEAUCE. — (St. Joseph).

IX

St Joseph — Dr. Senter' s Diary — The New Englanders
cross the border in 1775 — The French Canadians
cross the border in 1875 — The Monroe doctrine, as
understood in Canada. St. Joseph, Beauce, 10th Dec, 1888.
Doubtless this cherished land of our birth is a favored
spot in God's creation, on this green — pardon, whitened
earth, the trouble is that when the mercury sinks to the
" thirties," one rapidly fails to discover its superior advan
tages over milder climes.
Who, all considered, would readily exchange our bright
summer skies and our cold, but bracing winter, for the
malaria of neighbouring cities, for the chills and fever of
many of the grand watering places from Cape Cod to Flo
rida, with the periodical recurrence in the west of blizzards,
occasional cyclones and Septennial grasshoppers.
Such the patriotic thoughts uppermost in my mind this
day, as I stepped from the light cutter in which a hardy
Norman pony had drawn me briskly from the remote, snowr
crowned hills and lone land of East Broughton.
Not that I was feeling like the great Victor Hugo, when
he visited les Anglais across the channel — a prey to spleen.
Oh ! no, but I winced under the keen mountain air and
longed for some heat-generating agent — were it even Pain-
Killer. " Pour me guerir du spleen,
J'entrai dans une Inn
Oil je bus du Gin,
God Save the Queen I "
(From Hugo's last EngUsh ballad.)

— 92 —
I was wondering, whether, like Shenstone, I too could
count on a warm welcome at the village inn, when on
ascending the lofty (i) steps of Monsieur Groleau's hostel-
rie, I was greeted in French by the urbane landlord as
follows : " Sovez le bienvenu ; vous' me semblez gele ; prenez une
ietite larme ; la bonne liqueur esi presqu' aussi rare a la Beauce
qu'au temps des Bastonnais, il y a cent ans et plus." Strangely
enough in order to follow the foot-prints of the Bastonnais,
I had with me a written proof of the truthfulness of his
assertion, in the shape of Dr. Senter's Diary of the Quebec
Blockade, in 1775-76.
Taking Mr. G— 's greeting and allusion to the Yankees
of '75 as auspicious, I replied : " You are right, mon ami,
stimulants in Nov., 1775 were indeed scarce, and Dr. Sen
ter, the surgeon of Arnold's army (2) mentions how " a
quart of New England rum " cost him a " hard dollar " —
the only " agreeable " thing he had yet met with since he
had crossed the border " he added.
Tradition, however, has told you, I suppose, that the
doctor and his braw men fared better, a httle distance fur
ther, on enquiring at " an old peasant's house, where was a
merry old woman at her loom, and two or three fine young
(1) Dwellings, on the banks cf the river Chaudiere, have to be raised
many feet above the level of the river course on account ofthe tremen
dous spring floods. Each year about the 18th April, the river overflows
the whole Chaudiere valley for miles, lending fertility to the meadows
but causing also, occasionally, inevitable loss and devastation. In
April, 1885, at three a, m,, the flood suddenly rose thirty feet through
the obstruction caused by ice and under the action of a warm sun,
flooding the parlor floor of the village inn six inches deep ; the jam
gave way next day and the water receded. To meet these dire con
tingencies, every house on the river bank is provided with boats and
caHoes, so as to be prepared to retire at a moment's notice to the hills
¦with the household gods.
(2) The « Journal of Isaac Seater, " Physician and Surgeon to the
troops detailed from the American army, encamped at Cambridge,
Mass., on a secret expedition against Quebec, under the command of
Colonel Benedict Arnold, in September, 1775, published by the Histo-
rieal Society of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, 1846.

— 93 —
girls," from whom they purchased eggs, rum, sugar and
sweetmeats, &c., a delightful change in their diet which, on
some days had consisted in dog's flesh and a " bouillon, "
made out of mocassins, deer skin breeches and other such
tidbits, boiled to a jelly. But let us allow the New England
doctor to speak out about this hilarious old dame. " On
finding out who were her visitors, iraraediately she fell to
singing and dancing Yankee Doodle with the greatest air of
good nature.'' Can any one furnish me the name of this
sprightly old dame ? After settling the Bill, the famished
sons of Bellona took their departure ; if the truth were
known, possibly without causing any regret ; bent, however,
on returning.
On the 5th November, 1775, a Sunday, the invading host
reached the Church or Chapel of St Mary, thirty miles from
Quebec, where they mention having had " a good enter
tainment, roast turkey, Spanish wine, &c."
I shrewdly suspect the cellar and larder of loyal Seigneur
Gabriel Elzear Taschereau (then absent), supplied the menu
for the gargantuan feast of the starving patriots, dying to
fetch us, unappreciative Cansdians, the boon of liberty ;
but ere they left for Quebec, Senter's Journal furnishes the
particulars of an incident which happened a few miles
higher up, at Satigan.
In reply to the oration delivered by the Indians, at Sati
gan, Beauce, on the 4th November, 1775, to Col. Benedict
Arnold on his arrival, t|je Colonel returned the following
artful answer : " Friends and Brethren, — I feel myself very
happy in meeting with so many of my brethren from the
different quarters of the great country, and more so as we
meet as friends, and that we are equally concerned in this
»cpedition. Brethren, we are the children of those people,
who have now taken up the hatchet against us. More than
one hundred years ago we were all as one family. We then
differed in our religion and came over to this great country

— 94 —
by consent of the king ; our fathers bought land of the
savages and have grown a great people, even as the stars of
the sky. We have planted the ground and by our labor
grown rich. Now a new king and his wicked great men want
to take our lands and money wilhout our consent. This we
think unjust, and all our great raen from the river St. Law
rence to the river Mississipi, met together at Philadelphia,
where they all talked together and sent a prayer to the king,
that they would be brothers and fight for him, but would
not give up their lands and money. The king's army at
Boston came out into the fields and houses, killed a great
many women and children while they were peaceably at
work. The Bostonians sent to their brethren in the country, and
they came in, unto their relief, and in six days raised an
army of fifty thousand men and drove the king's troops on
board their ships, killed and wounded fifteen hundred of
their men. Since that they durst not come out of Boston.
Now we hear the French and Indians in Canada have sent
to us that the king's troops oppress them and make them
pay a great price for their rum, &c., press them to take up
arms against the Bostonians, their brethren that have done
them no hurt. By the desire of the French and Indians,
we have come to their assistance, with an intent to drive
out the king's soldiers ; when drove off, we will return to
our own country, and leave this to the peaceable enjoyment
of its proper inhabitants. Now, if the Indians, our brethren,
will join us, we will be very much obliged lo them, and will
give them one Portuguese per month, two dollars bounty,
and find them their provisions, and their liberty to chuse
their own ofiicers."
This insidious address delivered by the double traitor,
Beneaict Arnold, to the rum-loving Aborigines of the Chau
diere, just one hundred and thirteen years ago, affords at
the present juncture ample food for reflexion. Bearing in

— 95 —
mind the way in which the red man has been dispoiled of
his hunting grounds and oppressed by faithless officials,
under the Stars and Stripes, it would, I wean, require more
than one " Portuguese " to make him quit his snug Indian
reserves under good Queen Victoria, and seek the protection
of Uncle Sam.
There are raids too, across the border, at present, but of
a peaceable character ; the raiders bear the olive branch,
though it would appear they have serious designs ; they
meditate the implanting of a Roman Catholic Nationality,
in the old Puritan colony of Massachuselt I A Boston con
tributor to a well known New York publication (i). Dr.
Pros. Bender, in an elaborate article supported by statistics
and the census, points out the constant and ever increasing
influx of the French Canadians in New England, showing
that this prohfic race, has in its own country, wilhout the
help of emigration, increased from 65,000 in 176010 1,700,-
000 in 1888, a most incredible result
" Of late years, says Dr. Bender, a significant movement
of these people is that in favor of naturalization. They have
not, like the Irish or Germans, shown haste in this matier,
one reason being their nearness to their native land, in
which the French language is so largely spoken and their
religion so widely professed : another being the absence of
exciting political or material objects. They have 45 natura
lization clubs, with many others in course of formation, in
which lectures in French are given on the privileges and
duties of citizenship. It is believed that within ten years
there will be few if any of them not naturalized, all being of
late fully alive to the importance of this step. Many have
been successful in business, and several have entered the
New England legislatures : one, the Massachusetts ; four,
the Maine ; two, the Connecticut ; two, the New Hamp
shire ; and two, the New York ; and they are found among
municipal councillors, aldermen, &c. They support in New
(1) New York Magazine of American History, Nov., 1888, " New
France in New England, " statistics thereon, ic.

— 96 —
England and New York, 9 newspapers ; have 287 French
societies, with a total membership of 43,051. This is a most
creditable record, in so brief a period, showing capacity
for union and political management"
This New France in the New England of the future,
may, like the Monroe Doctrine, be in the womb of time,
when the Coutume de Paris is expected to supersede the
last of the Blue Laws of Massachusetts, and when the
Beaver, the Maple Leaf and the Tricolor, replace the Star
spangled banner, on Plymouth Rock !
About that time, probably, the coming New Zealander,
standing, in London, at the base of the Trafalgar column,
will be trying by dint of a nati're interpreter to decipher
Paradise Lost.

BEAUCE. — (St. Fran?ois.)

X
The Bobolink — Le Goglu,
(Dolichonyx orisyvorus) St. Francois, 7th June, 1883,
Here I am at last safe from railway heat and dust, on this
lovely 7th of June, and for lack of else to do, musing and
sauntering until tea-time, on the green bank of the mur
muring Chaudilre, following its graceful windings. What a
true landscape here of the Canada of, modern, as well as of
olden times ! The full tide of spring is on us, Heigho !
How many generations have sought and found rural quiet
in these fertile wheatfields spread before me ! How many
old Norman or Breton love ballads since the first settlement
in 1735, have been hummed by French lad and lassie in
these rich pasture-lands of La Nouvelle-Beauce 1 Who can
portray the ever varying, revolving-seasons, the welcome or
unwelcome incidents which have swept over this blithe, pas-
toral region ; how many April ice-shoves,floods, inundations in
the valley of Beauce ! How many glowing spring ripples have
furrowed this serene, historic stream, since the day — distanf|
indeed, — when the Jesuit Gabriel Druillettes, the first Euro
pean to ascend it to the Kennebec, left his Sillery mission
on the 22nd August, 1646, to plant the emblem of his faith
amidst the wild glens of New England. Yes, the time was
when the winding Chaudilre resounded to the deadly Indian
warwhoop.

— 98 —
History tells ofthe Penobscot Indians, Sabatlis and Eneos,
escorting on the 7th October, 1775, to unconquerable
Quebec, Arnold's trusted German scout, Jacquilh ; history
tells likewise of the successful march of Arnold's famished
but hardy braves, through trackless wilds, ice-bound streams
from Cambridge to cold Canada, in the Autumn of 1775.
With the graphic Diary of Arnold's surgeon. Dr. Isaac
Senter, open before me, I might almost be tempted to fancy
I hear the measured tread of the invading host, recruited
in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New- York and distant
Virginia, skirling the northern bank of the river, from the
Kennebec, all along to St. Mary, where, we are told by Dr.
Senter, much needed rest and good cheer, in the shape of
" Roast turkey and excellent Spanish wine " awaited them ;
though the same may have been contributed, mayhaps
¦jgrudgingly, from the larder and cellar of the Seigneur of the
parish, loyal Gabriel Elzear Taschereau.
I can conjure in my mind's eye, the good time and hearty
meals, which followed these protracted hardships, such a
prolonged fast, as marked the course ofthe invaders through
our Canadian wilderness. Lt-Col. Green, of Rhode Island,
Majors Return-J. Meigs, of Connecticut ; Timothy Bigelow,
of Massachusetts ; Capts. Humphrey, Hendrick, Morgan,
Sethe,- — pledging one another in bumpers of Prime Bene-
carlo, drinking " lo the fall of Quebec," to the death of the
- " Saxon tyrant," whilst young Aaron Burr, a lad of nineteen
summers, is thoughtfully conversing with his older friend.
Major Mathias Ogden. The hoarse tumult of war then, the
¦• shrill word of command of the New England musketeer, or
¦" the Rhode Island rifleman echoed across the waters, carrying
dread to the heart of the leafiest glen of Beauce ; now, the
mellowest of sunsets illumines the emerald, undulating
uplands to the North, whilst the spruce and fir-groves on
the hills, loom out over- the southern shore — turbans of
greenery and gold. Far off, softened by distance, the shrill

— 99 —
railway whistle is heard this is the nineteenth century
speaking out. Directly across the river Chaudilre, in a vast
level meadow, dotted here and there with a majestic elm as
a shade tree, may be seen the lithe form of a sturdy Cana
dian lad, rejoicing in his iJ^*/" mocassins and bonnet rouge,
with eye intent on the furrow, guiding a docile pair of oxen,
yolked to an antique Norman plough, resting on wheels :
— this is the seventeenth century.
What is this wild, gushing, rollicking music high ip the
air overhead ?
It is the hilarious, " mad music " of the bobolink, the
rival of the European lark — as Burroughs has it — " the
bird that has no European prototype, and no near relatives
anywhere, standing quite alone, unique, and, in the quali
ties of hilarity and musical tintinnabulation, with a song
unequalled." Audubon and Wilson had introduced him to
our notice in our most tender years. " He has already a
secure place in general literature, having been laurealed by
a no less poet than Bryant, and invested with a lasting
human charm in the sunny page of Irvine, — and is the only
one of our songsters, I believe, the Mocking-bird cannot
parody or imitate. He offers the raost marked exaraple of
exuberant pride, and a glad, rollicking holiday spirit that
can be seen among our birds. Every note expresses com
placency and glee. He is a beau of the first pattern, and
unlike any other bird of my acquaintance, pushes his
gallantry to the point of wheeling gayly into the train of
every female that comes along, even after the season of
courtship is over and the matches all settled ; and when she
leads him on too wild a chase, he turns lightly about and
breaks out with a song that is precisely analogous to a burst
of gay and self satisfied laughter, as much as to say " Ha /
ha I ha I I must have my fun ; Miss Silverthimble, thimble,
thimble, if I break every heart in the meadow, see, see, see!

— 100 —
At the approach of the breeding season, the bobolink
undergoes a complete change ; his form changes, his color
changes, his flight changes. From mottled brown or brindle
he becomes black and white 
his small, compact form becomes broad and conspicuous,
and his ordinary flight is laid aside for a mincing, affected
gait, in which he seems to use only the tips of his wings. It
is very noticeable what a contrast he presents to his mate
at this season, not only in color but in manners, she being
as shy and retiring as he is forward and hilarious. Indeed,
she seems disagreeably serious and indisposed to any fun
and jollity, skurrying away at his approach, and apparently
annoyed at every word and look. It is surprising that all
this parade of plumage and tinkling of cymbals should be
gone through with and persisted in to please a creature so
coldly indifferent as she really seems to be. If Robert
O'Lincoln has been stimulated into acquiring this hohday
uniform and this musical gift by the approbation of Mrs.
Robert, as Darwin, with his sexual selection principle would
have us believe, then there must have been a time w^hen
the females of this tribe were not so chary of these favors
as they are now. Indeed, I never knew a female bird of
any kind that did not appear utterly indifferent to the charms
of voice and plumage that the male birds are so fond of
displaying. But I am inclined to believe that the males
think only of themselves and ot outshining each other, and
not at all of the approbation of their mates, as, in an ana
logous case in a higher species, it is well known who the
females dress for and whom they want to kill with envy ? "
Such our jolly litlle friend, with the black and white
domino.

QUEBEC TO MAGDALEN ISLANDS.

XI
Levis — Its martial records of the past — Its first settler.
Next to a summer cruise, on board of one of our com
modious yatchs, along the green isles, or rocky shores
of our noble St. Lawrence, down amidst the ripphng surf
of the Baie des Chaleurs, the land of herring and cod,
there is no more attractive trip than a July or August
ramble from Quebec to that ultima thule, the Magdalen
Island group.
Prior, however, to casting anchor, under the lofty and
verdant capes of La Demoiselle, at Amherst harbor, raany
hundred miles of sea and land intervene ; the whole alive
with the meraories of a historic past and to which siege,
battle, legends, Indian ambush, shipwreck in its direst form,
lend a powerful, an unflagging interest.

*
# *

Levis, the point of junction of several railways : the
Intercolonial, the Grand Trunk, and the Quebec and Cen
tral Railway, is a thriving town of 13,000 souls, facing
Quebec. It is rather ambitious ; not to say jealous of its
venerable western neighbor. Tolerably well equipped with
temples of worship, for ils various congregations, the bulk
of which are Roman Catholic, it rejoices in a flourishing
Academie Commerciale, convents, a public hospital of grand
dimensions, a respectable City Hall and markets, a first
7 ^

— 102 —
-class hotel and several minor hotels. Shipbuilding, the
timber trade at Indian Cove and other berths for ships,
and latterly, its vast iron-workshops, have made it what
it is. The two first industries have well nigh departed,
but a kind Providence sent the afflicted town a Pactolus, in
the shape of a new line of railway, from St Charles to the
Levis Ferry, cutting into valuable river lots ; a solace and
comfort to the workingman, no less than to the landowner,
should the Courts of Justice uphold the monumental claims
for compensation, of some of the latter.
About twenty-eight years ago, the locality was known unden
the name of St. Joseph of Levis.
Increase of population and the exigencies of trade soon
necessitated several sub-divisions and dismemberments of
this vast territory, which in the days of one of its latei sei
gneurs, — Sir John Caldwell, — represented the seigniory of
JL,auzon. The eastern portion is still called St. Joseph, but in virtue
of successive, legislative and canonical decrees, it grew
into the town of Levis ; the villages of Bienville, of Lauzon ;
the parishes of Notre-Dame of Levis, that of St David de
i'Aube Rivifere, the populous parish of St. Romuald.
Pointe Levi played its part, a not unimportant one, in the
deadly struggle of 1759, and in the dark days of 1775.
Brigadier General Monckton, at the head of the 43rd and
-15th Regiments, with the aid of some ferocious Rangers,
paid Levis an unwelcome visit in June, 1759, having a
brush with the natives, and their Indian allies, taking three
prisofters and wounding three. On nearing the Church of
St. Joseph, the British were met by a brisk fire ; Captain
Campbell,' of Eraser's Regiment (the 78th) who, with his
ficympany, held the church, returned the fire— probably with
interest.

— 103 —
'Ps.net's Journal makes mention of a fighting Levy seignior,
liy name, Monsieur Charest, who seconded by one Legris,
a brave volunteer, and by thirty bloodthirsty Abenaquis
¦savages, lay in ambush on the 3rd July 1759, and suc
ceeded in making a prisoner and carrying away eight
British scalps, killing in all, about thirty of the enemy.
Levis, like fnany other Canadian towns, has its annalist
and trusty historian : M. J.-E. Roy, who will enlighten any
person desirous of looking up the history of this growing
locality. The Pointe Levi Church (St. Joseph), it seems, according
to an entry in the diary of old James Thompson, had been
set apart by Wolfe, as an hospital for the wounded, in
anticipation of the coming engagement on the Plains of
Abraham. Thither the wounded of both armies were con
veyed, on that eventful i3lh of September, in boats from
the shore, at Wolfe's Cove ; on the crest above, the victo
rious army was encamped,
James Thompson, the brave Highlander, who had volun
teered for the campaign, under his friend Capt David
Baillie, and who had lost all hope of a commission, by the
death of his protector at Louisbourg, appears on that day
to have acted as Hospital Sergeant, after the battle.
He describes very graphically hew the wounded prisoners,
-among the French, reached the hospital. The process of
carrying the French down to the boats, crossing them over ;
and then conveying them on rude ambulances, or hand-
barrows on which canvass was stretched, was a very tedious
one. James Thompson, a perfect Hercules of physical
strength, tells how he lost patience, and how he laid hold of
a Frenchman sorely hurt, and carried him in his arms all
the distance — some four miles — from the Levis landing to
the church of St. Joseph, the hospital, and that without
stopping to rest."

— 104 —
" I felt pretty exhausted " says he, " when I reached the
hospital, and what was worse, I had with the blood-stains,
ruined ray uniforni. The poor devils of Frenchmen uttered
loud cries of pain, when we had to move them, but we could
not understand a word of what they said. One had the flesb
of his cheek hanging on his shoulder, a blow from a sword,,
on attempting to escape his captors. When the French sur
rendered as prisoners, matters went smoothly with them, but
woe ! to the prisoner who attempted to outrun a Highlander t
Whack ! a blow from the claymore and all was settled. "
On the Sth February, 1760, the ice-bridge took across the
St. Lawrence, before the city. Captain Saint Martin, of the
French army, made an attempt with 800 men to take pos
session of the English post in the church of Pointe Levi ;
General Murray in person crossed over with the 15 th, 28th
and 78th (Highlanders) and some light infantry and two field
pieces. He failed to arrest the French in their flight, and returned
that night to the city with fifteen prisoners, and without lose-
ing any of his own men.
In November, 1775, Col. Benedict Arnold and followers
were delayed a whole week at the landing, at Levis, Cra-
mahe having taken the precaution to have all the canoes
and boats removed in time, to the Quebec side. Finally with
the help of thirty-five canoes, furnished hira by the Abena
quis of the Chaudiere, he succeeded in effecting a crossing
in the vicinity of Wolfe's cove, despite the presence of two
British men-of-war, the " Leopard " and the " Hunter, "
anchored before the town.
The Levis heights have in our day, been enlisted as
auxiliaries, in the defence of our city, by the construc
tion, at a cost of ;^ 176,805 of three vast earthworks, with,
masonry and casemates. These forts, at one mile distance
from one another, are intended to be armed with Moncrief

— 105 —
guns of heavy calibre ; they are further, so built, as to be, in
case of need, easily breached by artillery, from the Citadel,
¦so as to become untenable by an enemy who might have
•captured thera.
The eastern fort is protected by a lofty bluff — from
¦whence, t'is said, a plunging fire might be brought to- bear
on the deck of any iron-clad, attempting to ascend beyond
the Island of Orleans, which would infallibly sink it. . All
three forts mutually support and flank each other ; their
lines of fire sweep the whole front, and the interval between
each fort, 1800 yards. They are connected by a military
road and covered-way, which as well as the forts, can be
taken in reverse from the Citadel and rendered untenable.
The Point Levi casemates and forts have restored Que
bec to the proud position it occupied fifty years ago ; it is
still, notwithstanding its changes, the Gibraltar of North
America. Levis is the birth place of our melodious bard,
Frechette, and the adopted home of a poet and earnest
field naturalist, the Revd Duncan Anderson, late pastor
of the Levis Presbyterian Church,
In 1850, a singular discovery was made in its Roraan
Catholic cemetery, an iron cage, with some fragments of
human bones, which after perplexing the antiquaries of the
old capital, turned out to b; the instrument of torture of
Marie-Josephte Corriveau, condemned to be hanged, and
after death, exposed in this iron cage, where four roads meet,
as a warning to erring humanity. Marie-Josephte Corriveau,
appears to have been a second Lafarge ; having murdered
her two husbands, she was tried and convicted by a military
tribunal ofthe period — 1763 — presided by Lt-Col. Morris.
The curious will find her history in the Maple Leaves ior
•1863. Pointe Levi, formerly Cap de Livis, was not called after
Ie Chevalier de Levi, the hero of the batde of Ste. Foy, in
1760, but commemorates the name of one of our first vice-

— 106 —
roys. The historian Ferland gives the family a biblical
origin and allows it important privileges. " The Levfc
family, says he, claims descent from the patriarch Jacob, hyr
his son Levi. It is related, that there was once in the Levi
family a picture representing the Virgin Mary, whilst a.
itaember of the Levi family stood hat in hand. Two inscrip
tions threw light on the matter, " Couvrez-vous, mon cousin"
says the Virgin " c'est mon plaisir, ma cousine " replies the
descendant of Levi. — Cours d'Histoire du Canada, Vol. I,
p. 214.
Pointe Levi can claim among her most notable early
denizens a hardy pioneer, whom Mr. Jos.-E. Roy, his
biographer, styles The first colonist of Levis.
GuiLLAUME Couture, 1608-1702.
There are several interesting types to be met with among
the early settlers on Canadian soil, which, thanks to some
painstaking antiquaries, are gradually asserting themselves..
The most recent we know of is Guillaume Couture, the
first settler of Levis, a character strikingly monographed by
Mr. Joseph-Edmond Roy, of Levis, in his late publication :,
Le Premier Colon de Lhis.
It was a happy thought, which prompted this promising
young writer, to draw so bountifully from his abundant store^
of historical lore, in order to place prominently before the
general reader, a figure of the dim past, hitherto known to
few beyond our antiquarian delvers : Faillon, Ferland,
Suite, Viger, Faribault, Scadding, Sandham, Verreau ;
Couture evidently belongs to that sturdy, intelligent class
of pioneers — intense lovers of forest adventure and adepts
in the knowledge of Indian dialects : the Marsolet, Charles
LeMoine, Hertel, Nicolet and olher hardy voyageurs-inter-
pretes in the days of yore. He now looms out as one of
the most remarkable of the class.

— 107 —
More fortunate than many of his compeers, he rose suc
cessively to the envied position ol a seigniorial judge, a
negotiator of treaties, a commander of militia, adding
even to other honors that of recorder of deeds (nofaire), a
very special functionary in those distant tinies.
Guillaume Couture was born in the famous old Norman
town of Rouen, in 1617, according to the antiquary Tan-
guay ; in 1608, theyearof the foundation of Quebec, accord
ing to the historian Ferland. We owe to Rouen several other
worthies ; Nicolet, le Tardif, Marguerie, Hertel, Marsolet,
the Godfroy and alii.
Couture seems lo have landed at Quebec, in the service
ofthe Jesuit Fathers, in 1640. He soon made his mark as
an intrepid voyageur, an able linguist, employed by mis
sionary labor and Government Imagination likes lo recall
the young, adventurous and athletic woodsman, escorting
the enthusiastic and youthful surgeon, Rene' Goupil (i) and
Father Jogues, through boundless forests, &c., towards the
Iroquois country, bearing, as it were, their lives each day
in their hands, and prepared to s-.;al their failh with their
life blood.
History has handed down the account of their hazardous
voyage, with forty followers and twelve canoes, penetrating
in the heart of this redoubted land, under the guidance of
theHuron brave. Chief Eustache Ahalsistari — of their falling
into an Indian ambuscade, in the islets of Lake St. Peter —
of the horrible tortures and death inflicted on several of the
party — of Couture's marvellous escape, though not without
a mutilated hand — of the joy of his friends on his return
after his long captivity, and, as it were, from another world-
Couture had been employed for twenty years as interpreter

(1) Rene Goupil was killed by the Iroquois on the 18th October,
1646. Father Jogues was massacred. The youth, Jean de Lalonde,
who accompanied them, shared the same fate.

— 108 —
in the Huron and Mohawk missions, where he was invited
to accompany, in March 1661, an expedition originated by
Governor D'Argenson, to explore the northern portion of
Canada, towards Hudson Bay ; this expedition had to turn
back on account of Indian hostihties. In 1663, a second
expedition was fitted out for Hudson Bay. Governor
D'Avaugour placed Couture at the head of it, and the hardy
voyageur on his arrival claimed possession of this remote land,
erected there a cross, and deposited a brass plate, on which
the royal arms of France were engraved. It was protected
by lead plates, and buried at the foot of a large tree. Later
on, we find Couture assisting Father Henri Nouvel, on his
missionary labors among the Monlagnais, the Papinachois
and Esquimaux tribes, on the north shore of the St. Law
rence, from Tadoussac to the entry of the gulf.
The indefaticable voyageur-interprete left Quebee on the
31st May, 1665, with Father Henri Nouvel, for this distant
land ; after suffering shipwreck, near Rimouski, they called
the lower point. Father Point, after Father Nouvel, and
wintered there.
Mr. Roy's little volume is brimful of antiquarian lore,
gleaned at the purest sources. We read among other details :
" In 1610, no church had yet been built in the Cote de
Lauzon, though eight churches are mentioned as existing
that year, in the Quebec settlement : the Quebec parochial
church, the Jesuits, Ursulines, Hotel-Dieu churches, the
little Sillery church, that of Chateau-Richer, of Ste. Anne
du Petit Cap, and that of St. Jean (^near the Coteau Ste.
Genieve), at Quebec. The last two were built of wobd,
with stone foundations, the six others, of stone. Abbe
de la Tour (i) slates that the church of St. Joseph
de Levi was erected in 1677, by the Abb^ Morel,
its pastor, evidently the first temple of worship opened
f 1) Vie de Monseigneur Laval n. 170.

— 109 —
•on the south shore of the St Lawrence, one league
below Quebec. A few years back, the ruins of a structure
of sorae magnitude were unearthed, on the beach of St
Joseph, in Charland's shipyard. Were they the remains of
the first church ? Were they the stone foundations of Bis-
¦sot's tannery, erected at the suggestion of intendant Talon ?
or else the mouldering remains of the Manor of brave
Seigneur Charest (alluded to in Panel's Diary of the Siege
of r759) ?
The church of 1677, Mr. Roy thinks, was the same as
tbat destroyed by fire, on the i4lh February, 1830 : the
present church was erected on the site, the foundations
extending but a few feel beyond. The old church was used
as a place of worship, by all the settlers from Berthier (en
bas) to St Jean Les Chaillons.
We gradually follow the adventurous career of George
Couture.' No doubt, the patriotic railitia officer, like the
bellicose, though sexagenarian Seigneur of Beauport, Juche
reau de St Denis (Duchesnay), kept his powder dry, burnt
some in 1690, when Sir William Phips invaded Canada
and landed detachments al Riviere-Ouelle, Pointe-de-Levi
-and Beauport The patriarchal clan ot the Couture, al Levis,
now 112 strong, couid at present furnish, at least, two com
panies for such an emergency I ! !
Mr. Roy occasionally indulges in some graceful word
painting. Easter Sunday, 1648, when the first mass was celebrated
at Pointe-de-Levy, appears to have been a red letter day for
the swarthy sons of the forest and their trusted ally, Guil
laume Couture. Let us hear his industrious biographer :
¦" On the i2lh April, 1648, the rare denizens of Quebec
who may have stood on Governor Montmagny's veranda (i)
<1) The Dufferin Terrace now occupies the east end of this spot.

— 110 —
to watch the Easter sun rise above the horizon, might have
noticed, under the Levy Heights, two canoes impelled by a
dozen, vigorous oarsmen. The mOrning was bright, and
the cool atmosphere seemed to call forth all the exertions
of the canoemen. Below, some floating ice still flecked the
rapid stream. The bows of the canoes were covered with
raw sheep hides, as a protection against the inroads of the
icy floes.
The canoes after skirling for sometime the solitary beach.
opposite, all at once obeying a stroke of the paddles,
ouched ground at an indentation in the shore, since honored
with the poetical name of " Joliette's Hole." Scarcely had
the strand been reached, when one of the inraates, a vigor
ous fellow, sprang ashore and offered his arm as a support,
to a companion more aged, who carried, strapped to his
shoulders, a heavy package. Immediately there issued from.
beneath the hoary pines, lining the bank, a group of Indians,
and a report of musquetry reverberated from the neigh
boring heights. Where, then, were bound, this little band
of voyageurs, at early dawn, on a spring morning ? Were
they a war party of ferocious Iroquois, bent on harrying the
isolated settlements, on the Cote de Beaupre, or at the
Island of Orleans ?
" Were these water conveyances the ordonnance pinnace
sent frora Quebec to greet His Excellency, Governor d'Ail-
leboust, returning from France, or were they simply canoes
bearing missionaries to the distant missions in the old settle
ment of Norembega ?
The doubt was very soon ended.
The man carrying the package wore a long black
cassock ; it was Father Bailloquet, conveying his portable
altar, and prepared to solemnize on the Easter morning, the
first Mass, at Levis ; the rausquets discharged were afeic de
joie, on the part ofthe Red Skins."
We have seen Couture, the voyageur, let us see the Judge.
A Judge-Seneschal was an iraportant personage under the

— Ill —
old regime. " The duties of a Seigniorial Judge " adds Mr»
Roy, " were such that the office was no sinecure. He had to
decide every kind of lawsuit, preside at inventories, seques
trate estates — aptioser les selles — discharge the duties of a
modern coroner. " It is well kaown what a litigious spirit
actuated our ancestors, so many of whom were of Norman
descent ; as such, inclined to perpetuate the love of their fore^
fathers for litigation, (i) What olher amusement could they
indulge in during their long, idle winters? A searcher of the
past furnishes a return for the jurisdiction of Quebec, of 424
suits, originated from 26th September, 1663, to 23rd August,
1664, in a population of about 1,500 souls; nearly one
lawsuit to every four persons.
Some of these legal battles, about precedence in the
reception of the pain-beni and eau-benite by different
classes of officials, &c., were fought to the bitter end, before
the Judge, or the officiate. Couture laid aside his judicial
functions to accept the office oP Capitaine de la Cote, com
mander of the militia ; as such, it was his prerogative to
receive first from the Governor the public ordonnances, and
proclamations, to have them read at the church door on
Sundays, and then enforced. He also was charged with
ordering the corvks (forced labor), take the census, oversee
work on public roads, convoke the meetings of settlers." A
worthy man was he, devoted to the service of his religion
and his king ; companion of the martyr Jogues, comrade of
Rend Goupil and Lalonde, he was the rival of Nicolet, the
Indians bestowed upon him that name. If Quebec is proud
of the probity, and of the devotion of such good men as
Hebert and Couillard, its first inhabitants, one of the oldest

fl). Mr, Roy in a note, recalls the rather profane adjuration with
which, according to an old legend, the Normans were in the habit of
closing at night, the Lord's Prayer : Mon Dieu, je ne vous demande.
pas de bien, mettez^moi seulement d, c6U de quelqu'un qui en posside. " T
ask not for riches, 0 Lord, let me merely be located close to any one
who possesses some.

- 112 —
parishes of the country, that of Pointe-de-Levis, is happy
to be able to bring to the light of day, the name of Guillaume
Couture, its first settler, first Judge-Seneschal, first Captain
of Mihtia." The sturdy old colonist closed his useful
career, at an advanced age, at Levis, in 1702 ; doubtless he
now sleeps the long sleep somewhere in God's Acre, in his
flourishing old settlement.

" Harlaka, — Beaumont, — St. Charles, — St. Valier, —
St. Michel, — St. Thomas, — • Montmagny."
Harlaka 1 such is the name painted on the St. Charles
Railway station, at the junction ofthe Quebee Central, and
Intercolonial Railways. Who can tell what the railway
magnate had in his mind, when he ordered this harsh,
Indian word to be affixed over the door of the station ? A
-correspondent, signing Ladioton in the Levis newspapers,
Le Quotidien, furnishes the following anent Harlaka ; —
" T'is an Abenaquis word, he says, and also the name of
one of the remote villages in Levis : it raeams ' he who has
succeeded in reaching a place ; ' this interpretation, we opine,
leaves a wide margin to commentators.
In 1682, Governor La Barre, intent on protecting Quebec,
against the inroads of the Iroquois, established on the shore
of the Chaudiere, near the falls — about six miles from its
mouth, an outpost of Abenaquis : the Marquise de Boiche
paid the cost of this Indian mission. It was placed under
the charge of the Jesuits, — had its church and a popula
tion of 1,000 souls, men, women and children. The Abena
quis had naraed it KikouteSaun, village of the river of the
meadows ; the Jesuits called it after St. Fiangois de Sales.
It was deserted in 1702, by the Abenaquis, who tettled at
Becancour and Pierreville ; no traces of it now remains,
but three villages in the back concessions still bear Indian

— 113 —
names ; Toneata, Sarasto and Harlaka. Sarasto was the
ancient name of Saratoga in the United States ; Toneata
was the well remembered cognomen of several islands under
the French regime, in the neighborhood of Kingston. The
orthography of Harlaka and Sarasto, is not yet well defined
Some write Arlaca, Orlaca, Arlaqua, Arlacet. Sarasto is
occasionally transformed into Sorosto, Sarasteau. Pious
commentators have of late made it into Saint Rousteau.
Respecting Saint Rousteau, asks La Patrie, which came
from Sarasteau, where is the denizen of Beauce, who has
not read in old notarial documents. Saint Igan, for Sarti-
gan, but the most apocrypt canonisation seems to have
occurred in the Eastern Townships, There, Saint Folk for
Stanfold ; Sainte Ivrognesse for Inverness ; Saint Morissette,
for Somerset. ¦it
¦* •*
In r853, there dawned for the Lower St Lawrence a new
era, the railway era : British enterprise, British capital per
sonified, in the grand old Railway Co., Jackson, Peto,
Brassey and Betts, our first railway kings.
What an inestimable boon this enterprising firm con«
ferred on this northern region, by the introduction of the
iron horse, as a locomotive agent !
What an element of expansion for the whole Province I
Who now cares to revert to the postal service in the
old style, to our former mode of winter travel, relays
of jaded horses, sweltering in August, under pyramids
of mail bags, or plodding laboriously their way in
winter through snow drifts from Quebec to Halifax,
Instead of that household institution, the telephone,
or the electric telegraph, flashing news from one hemis
phere to the other, Quebec had first a raonthly, —
subsequently, a bi-monthly service of sailing ships in summer.

— 114 —
and depended for tidings of the approach of the regular
-traders, in their ascent up the St. Lawrence, on the appear
ance of the black balls, dangling each morning from the
Citadel flag-staff.
Railways here, as elsewhere, portended a great awakening,
¦welcome harbingers of a new life.
One cherished institution, however, of the past, especially
dear to winter travel through the Quebec parishes, disap
peared under the new regime,the cosy wayside inn. The way
side inn stood generally in the vicinity of the parish church ;
a paying monopoly it was, in each village, guaranteed to its
proprietor by Royal license, for the benefit of the public.
There the fiery /a/wo/i of 1837-38 — assembled to drink in
bumpers '¦ Long life to Papineau " ; there, the election
comraittees were formed ; there, the noisy maquignons met,
to test on the Sunday, after vespers, the speed of their
Norman trotters, or amblers.
There, the belated traveller was sure to find a kind wel
come, a warm bed, ham and eggs ad libitum, a foaming
tankard of McCallum or Molson's XX — occasionally on
bitter winter days, a refreshing cup of steaming, spiced
jangree, and such sangree alas ! those prized creature com
forts have possibly disappeared for ever ! To the wayside
licensed inn of olher days, has succeeded, those odious
frauds, the Hotel de Temperance and the Repos des Voya
geurs, with their creaking sign boards ; a bastard outcome
of our crude temperance legislation. To the unsuspecting
wayfarer, a delusion and a snare.

The belt of land in rear of the river settleraents is not to
"be taken as a criterion of the quality of the soil, in an agri
cultural district. The railway corapany in quest of level

— 115 —
country for the construction of a line, naturally gave the
preference, in order to save cost, in acquiring the right of
way, to poor land provided it were easily graded.
Beaumont is quite an old settlement, a portion was
granted, on the 3rd Nov. 1672, by Intendant Talon, to Sieur
des Islets de Beaumont ; another portion was conceded, on
the I oth April, 17 13, to Sieur Couillard de Beaumont, by
the Marquis of Vaudreuil. Ils church is ancient, and the
ruins of the presbytlre date back to 1722, or thereabout
The wheat fields of Beaumont had attracted attention
¦early under French rule. Town Major Hughes Pean
owned mills and land in this neighborhood in 1758. Beau
mont was formerly famous for its eel, shad and sturgeon
fisheries ; its proximity to Quebec, gave it the benefit of a
daily city market for this important source of revenue.
Saint Charles is a kind of second range, though thickly
settled. Saint Michel, one of the largest parishes of the County of
Bellechasse, is seen standing out in bold relief from the
deck of passing river craft ; amidst its neat, white dwellings
which fringe the elevated river shore, peers its R. C. church,
until lately, rich in sacred paintings, the greater part sent
out from France, in 181 7, by the Abbd DesjardinS, of Paris,
to his brother, also an abbd and acting then as chaplain of
the Hotel-Dieu monastery at Quebec. Several of these
pictures were the work of old masters : Murillo, Romanelly,
Champagne, Boucher and others ; the church having been
struck by the electric fluid, its valuable contents were con
sumed in less than one hour. A line of steamers touches
daily at the St. Michel pier ; raany Quebecers take advan
tage of it to spend the hot season in this cool retreat.
At St. Michel, was born on the 15th October, 1803, the
Hon. Antoine Norbert Morin, one of the leading figures in
our Pariiamentary debates during the stormy days of 1837.

— 116 —
Mr. Morin was also one of the founders of the Minerve
journal, at Montreal, in 1827, and jointly with the Hon.
Louis- Joseph Papineau, was recognised as the father of the
famous 92 Resolutions, in 1834, when the first break in the
party took place by the secession ofthe Hon. John Neilson,
of the Quebec Gazette, and of Messrs. Cuvillier and Quesnel,
of Montreal; two years later, in 1836, another break hap
pened. Mr. Morin, after filling with acceptance the offices
of speaker of the House of Assembly, of Provincial Secre^
tary, of Commissioner of Crown Lands, of Codifyer of our
Laws, expired, an honored Judge of the Superior Court, at
Ste. Adele, county of Terrebonne, on the 28th July, 1865.
In a neighboring parish the inhabitants still point out with
pride, the Maple Grove hut, where the incorruptible
patriot, hid, during the winter of 1837, to escape the court
raartials of the vieux brulot. — Sir John Colborne.
The stern old Waterloo warrior had earned that nickname
from the French - Canadian peasanty, from his ruthless
manner of dealing with the disaffected parishes, on the river
Chambly, where the houses and barns were burnt by his
troops indiscriminately.
A peasant, each night, brought on snow shoes, food to the
patriote Morin, in his solitary cabin, in the deep woods ;
though a large reward was offered for his capture, there
were none base enough to earn it.
But the Intercolonial Express, is hurrying us past the
green woods, and fertile fields of St Valier ; we just catch
a glimpse of the Bois de Boulogne, between Berthier and
Montmagny, wherein on 24th June, 1837, the St. Jean-
Baptiste Society, or rather the patriots of the adjacent
parishes, had met to hear the dictator Papineau discourse
on the wrongs of Canada, with entrancing eloquence. This
takes us back halfa century ; one raay find in the Album du
Touriste, a narrative of the incident by an eye-witness ; let
us quote freely from the sarae : " A memorable festival was

— 117 —
indeed, says the author, the file St. Jean-Baptiste at St.
Thomas ! in 1837, with what flowing periods, did colonial
grievances inspire the fiery orators 1 the cry, of course, was :
" The grinding tyranny of England towards the French race
in Canada, les enfants du sol were little better than Russian
serfs !" How eloquently Papineau expatiated on the sub
ject ? followed by Lafontaine, Tachd, Morin, Girouard, Le-
tourneau I such enthusiastic cheering from the smaller fry of
patriotes: some on horseback, some on foot. After the
lapse of half a century and when sober thought asserts its
sway, some of the modes proposed to redress the grievances,
do seem strange, and of more than doubtful efficacy to
reduce to submission stubborn old England. The Cana
dian Militia armed with wooden cannon, rusty muskets and
pitchforks, were to meet in battle array, England's disci
plined regiments led by Waterloo veterans : Sir John Col
borne, Sir James MacDonald. The firm resolve to refuse
the use of all imported goods— the vow to wear nothing but
home-spun coats, breeches and straw hats — the promise to
abstain from all imported wines and spirits and drink noth
ing stronger than spruce beer ! I ! How patriotic all this
sounded in 1837 !
Alas 1 how we must have degenerated ! The Canadian
Demosthenes on his way to Kamouraska to visit a leading
patriot, Jean-Baptiste Tach^, brother of the late Sir E.-P.
Tache', stopped his carriage at the village school to receive
an address.
Half a century takes us back to the unregretted feudal
tenure of land in Lower Canada, when the seigneur alone
had the right to own pigeons — when all grain had to be
ground and pay tithes to the banal mill — when sales of
real estate were heavily handicapped by vexatious dues —
droits de quint — de lods et ventes, — de retrait — all enforced,
with the exception of the famous droit du seigneur, which
does not appear to have ever been exercised. The laird of
8

— 118 —
the Manor could also order a corvSe-forced labor — wheii
he thought it proper.
The last corvee, ordered at St. Thomas, took place about
1835 ; Mr. J. Oliva, (i) ordered his retainers, to bring horse
and sleigh in the woods, to draw the logs for his mill, to the
river edge for the spring drive. Seigneur Oliva had for his
;successor a portly, jovial Englishman, by name William
Randall Patton. Seigneur Patton had but a qualified admi-
jration for the seigniorial tenure and vetoed corvees. The
•genial seigneur expired in 1853. Haifa century back, there
were yet extant in the country-parishes surrounding Quebec,
what may be styled off-shoots of the French revolution of
¦1789, professional raen holding the free-thinking doctrines
of Voltaire, Diderot, Dalembert ; social levellers, haters of
kings and priests. The spread of education, new currents
of thought, and other causes have rid the country of these
.gentry. The leading spirit, at St. Thomas, during the insurrec
tionary period of 1837, was without doubt the popular
village physician, Dn Elienne-Paschal Tach6, born there
on the 5th September, 1795.
Dr. Tachd was a fiery, eloquent gentleman ; in a measure,
a self-rhade man, who had sraelled gunpowder, on more
than one Canadian battle-field, during, the war of 181 2. As
a Lieutenant in the Chasseurs Canadiens, he figures advan
tageously, at the disastrous battle of Plattsburg, where his
¦corapany alone lost eighteen raen. At the union of the
Pro-vinces in 1841, Dr. Tachd succeeded as member for the
county of L'Islet, his late friend Jean-Charies Letourneau, —
a type in his way. Notary Letourneau was an educated.

,(1 ) Since these lines were penned, I have learned that the Laird
«ctf the old Couillard Manor, at St. Thomas, was not the real Seigneur,
that the alledged corvie, was intended merely to take advantage of
the spring flood, in the Biviire du Sud, to float down the saw logs
igor his mill.

— 119 —
professional man ofthe old school, with a smack of Voltaire,
atonetime, in his social opinions; very French as to physique^
;style of dress, oratory. He wore his hair, like his beloved
master, Papineau, turned up in front en toupet ; a white
cravat, a faultless, black-coat cut away like a judge's, com
pleted the recherchk toilette of this antique, sprightly village
politician. Dr. Tachd, from his earnest, fervid nature, would doubt
less have been dragged into the thick of the bloody mUke,
had he been a denizen of St. Eustache, or St. Charles ; the
extreme views of the Fils de la liberty, in the Montreal
district, would have carried the day with him ; Had lion-
hearted Chenier, at the Church of St. Eustache, called out
for a volunter to back him. Dr. Tachd, if there, would have
been his man and yelled out " ready ". But distance from
the arena of strife, as well as some of his surroundings at St.
Thomas, helped to restrain hira. The timely secession of
the Quebec wing of politicians from the party bent on armed
insurrection : John Neilson and his colleagues, Cuvillier,
-Quesnel, in 1834, followed later on, in r836, by another
batch of patriots,R.-E. Caron, Hector-S. Huol, T.-C. Aylwin,
Etienne Parent, Dunbar Ross, Ls. Fiset and others, saved
in the end much effusion of blood in the Quebec district
St. Thomas, in 1837, had a species of club of enthusiastic
patriots : Edouard and Stanislas Valine, Ls. Casault, J.-B.
Fournier, Gilbert Lavergne, Prudent T^tu, Ls. Blais and
others — under the guidance of Letourneau and Tach^,
their oracles.
Who could then have forseen that the fiery Doctor, by
accepting, with Baldwin and Lafontaine, the concessions and
new constitution, offered by England in 1840, should blos
som forth into a belted Knight, H. M's Aide-de-Camp, a
Minister of the Crown, the President of the National San-
hedrin, which gave us Confederation, — a pink of loyally,—
the Parliamentary orator, who boldly proclaimed that the

— 120 —
" last gun fired on Canadian soil for the flag of England
would be by a French Canadian. "
One thing certain is that he was not thinking of that "gun""
in 1837, if he thought at all of firearms, in that disturbed
period; that when Police Magistrates Symes and Young
sent a posse of police to search the cellar of the Doctor^
during the insurrection, they where not in search of that
faraous gun of the future. However, they did find a gun ira
this dark abode, the toy cannon of the Doctor's httle son, —
now, our worthy Deputy Minister of Crown Lands. They did
not, however, boast of their discovery.
History has indeed some strange teachings.
One of the most popular cries in 1837, among the enfants^
du sol was " Abat les Bureaucrates ! " " Down with the
holders of public offices I " then monopolised by the British
family compact. This cry would fail to rouse much enthu
siasm among the enfants du sol to-day et pour cause !
Did the English element in 1837 ever really realize the
nature of the issues debated in misruled Canada ? This is
very doubtful. It was not in reality a feud of races a duel
between French and English, though to rivet the attention.
of England, politicians strived to make it so in Lower
Canada, whilst in Upper, this was not considered feasible.
The leading changes advocated by Mr. Papineau have
not, by any raeans, a French ring about them ; such, for
instance, as the liberty of the press, abolishment of impri
sonment for debt, trial by jury, the control of public revenue
and expenditure, independence ofthe judiciary, the abolish
ment of sinecures, of absenteeism, of pluralities of offices.
The first speakers in our national Pariiament, Papineau,
pire etfils, knew something of the British constitution, and
instead of looking to France for precedents and help
they appealed to English precedents, to English liberty, to
the Anglo-Saxon neighboring commonwealth for sympathy
and allies.

— 121 —
The most noticeable U. E. Loyalists of Quebec, from
-1800, had certainly much to do with the aggressive stand
token towards the French majority in Lower Canada, but
the head and front, the " Fountain of power " as Robert
Christie styles him — of the English party was not a U. E.
Loyalist. The Hon. H.-Wistius Ryland, one of the most
"' level heads " of the times, who had landed at Quebec
with his protector Lord Dorchester, in 1795, was the secret
guiding spirit for a quarter of a century, in Lower Canadian
-Statecraft Had the insurrection in Lower Canada, in 1837,
been a mere struggle of the Frepch element against the
English, it could scarcely have enlisted from an adverse
nationality as it did, such devoted partisans as Wolfred and
Robert Nelson, Thomas-Slorrow Brown, McDonald, W.
Scott, Neil Scott, O'Callaghan, Tracy, the fighting men of
the period, whose opinions were in advance of those of
John Neilson, Cuthbert, De Witl, Leslie and others.
Intense and protracted colonial misrule, intolerable abuses,
kept up for the benefit of an exclusive party, lo the
prejtidice of men of all nationaUties in Canada, such was
doubtless one of the moving causes, which stirred up the
Canadian Harapdens of 1837, to join the French in the
disproportionate struggle of that day.
It is only necessary to refer to the public records of the
time, to see that there were more than two parties in Lower
Canada, seeking predominance and power.
The Greville Memoirs, Vol. Ill, P. 125, under date of
20th December, 1835, make mention of a rather remarkable
letter, addressed to Henry Taylor, of London, by Mr. T.
Frederick Elliott, a nephew of Lord Minto, and secretary to
the famous Gosford Commission, which letter Greville
takes as constituting an excellent expose of the political
situation of Lower Canada. This epistle was submitted to
the British Cabinet and seems to have attracted much atten
tion on their part

— 122 —
It runs thus under date of 24th October, 1835, " People-
have been accustomed in England to hear of only two par
ties in Canada, the English and the French, but there are
in fact three parties, the official, the English and the French,
besides some important French classes, altogether distinct
from the party which goes by that narae.
The official, or as the French term is Bureaucratic party,
is composed of a few old men, holding the highest offices-
They seera to be fond of privileges, jealous of interference,
and ready to take offence at any inquiry into popnlar alle
gations ....
Very different from this feeble corps, is the real " English
party." It is composed of all the merchants, with an admix
ture of considerable landholders, and some of the younger
and more intelligent civil officers. It possesses much intel
ligence, rauch wealth and still more credit ....
This imposing body, moreover, has great advantage at the
present moment in the moderation of tone, which it can
assume in contrast to the violence of its adversaries ....
It is fully as ambitious of dominion as the French party,
and, in my opinion, prepared to seek it by more unscrupu
lous raeans ....
(Bryraner's Report on Canadian archives, 1883, page
r6o.) But enough for the present, of the lights and shadows of
other days.
Let us, from the railway step into one of these jaunty —
eminently national vehicles — the buck-board drawn by a
lively marche-donc ! Ere the railway whistle shrieks, we have
just time to take a peep at the sounding waterfall of the
RivVere du Sud, in the basin of St. Thomas, past the mossy
old Patton Manor, as of yore, enzoned in majestic elms and
grand old oaks : thence let us hie back, past convent past
school-houses and Court House, after getting a glimpse of

— 123 —
the turrets of the roomy Tachd Mansion, next to the former
home of old Notary Letourneau. In rear of the handsome
parish church, looms out the little rural cemetery, in which
amidst many peaceful slumberers, stands forth the marble
tablet, recording the private worth, and public service of
Sir Etienne-Paschal Tach^, gathered to his fathers, full of
years and honors in August, 1865, aged 70 years : the faiher
of the settlement. The Hon. Louis-Joseph Papineau.
One of the most conspicuous figures, now and hereafter,.
in the annals of the Province of Quebec, will doubtless be
that of the fiery spirit, who originated the insurrection of
1837. 1 find inserted in an old Diary of mine, a note recording
my first glimpse of this famous agitator and eloquent states
man, Louis-Joseph Papineau ; it dates of my early youth —
in 1837.
Far be it from me to attempt to portray in extenso, the
eminent statesman's parliamentary career — as his historian
or biographer. This may be practicable, when a few decades
have passed over and the embers of the political cauldron,
so lively in 1837, shall have sufficiently cooled to be handled
with safety or advantage ; let us wail until the contempo
raries of this stormy period have been gathered to their
fathers ; let us possess in peace our minds, until the momen
tous changes, brought about in a great measure by the
outbreak of 1837-8, have finally fruited.
To some few, L.-J. Papineau appears in no other light but
that of an ignis fatuus — a rabid, merciless demagogue, who>
had raised the whirlwind of popular frenzy, without the
power to quell it, not even when his own head was at stake 1
a madman, who to oppose the mighty power of England,

— 12i —
had nothing stronger at command than ' wooden cannon '
served by raw peasants, (i)
To others, his career seems surrounded with the divine
halo of patriotism : he was the hberator of an oppressed
nationahty ; — the unrelenting foe to Colonial misrule. His
memory will survive in imperishable lustre.
Let us then be satisfied to wait until time and impartial
history have pronounced their final, their irrevocable verdict
I have stated that the first view I had ofthe great Speaker
of the Canadians' Comraons, dated more than forty years
back. vVhy was it so vivid ? Why did it leave such a
lasting impress in the " haunted halls " of memory ?
That Mr. Papineau had a remarkable physique : that he
blended in his person the courteous demeanour, the lofty,

(1) Neilson's Quebec GazetU foi 31st Nov,, 1838, furnishes a fair
specimen of these bitter, and undignified revilings, pending this fra
tricidal conflict.
To the Editor of the Quebec Gazette.
Sir, — By letters of the 16th instant from Terrebonne, it is ascer
tained that all was then quiet there, though the Loyalists from the
knowledge of the fickleness of ttieir neighbors, were uot without fear
of a renewal ofthe attack on their persons and property. The report
that the Honble Mr, McKeusie aud the Honble Mr. Masson had been
made prisoners by the insurgents, turns out to be incorrect. Those
gentlemen having h'ad timely notice of the approach of the G-oths
and Vandals, to sack their beautiful village, fortified Mr. Masson's
house, where they took refuge, accompanied by their families and 14
•other loyalists — all determined to spill the last drop of their blood
in their own defence.
Thus garrisonued and resolved, this gallant little band was beseiged
for a day and a uight, by a party of upwards of 100 country clowns,
decorated with bonnets rouges, armed with flails, pitchforks and rusty
guns, loaded with marbles and commanded by a cow doctor — a half-
starved country notary and a briefless lawyer.
Altogether the scene seemed a burlesque upon warfare, a species of •
imummery got up to create alarm, in which the smell of tobacco
and garlic predominated over that of gunpowder. At last, however, a ¦
parley took place between the besieged, and a motley group of the
beseigers, who having obtained what they supposed, a redress of some
imaginary grievance, dispersed peaceably to their respective homes
to boast of their exploit en mangeant la soupe pour se fortifier Vestomac. Q
¦Quebec, 20th November, 1838.

— 125 —
proud deportment of the ancient French seigneur, with the
fiery delivery of a modern French orateur parlementaire, all
who saw him, in the midst of debate, felt inclined to admit
He was scrupulously neat in his dress, even when an octo
genarian. He carried his well proportioned head, high ;
his hair was cut rather short and terminated in an erect
toupet, well suited to his grave style of face : his coat, of
black cloth with the petit collet, resembled in cut, a Judge's
coat It may not be out of place to recall here the leading
traits of his parliamentary career.
Louis-Joseph Papineau, born in Montreal, in 1789, was
the son of Joseph Papineau, for many years member for
Montreal, a notary by profession, and highly distinguished
for the simple but very effective style of his forensic oratory.
Joseph was born in Montreal, in 1752.
The young Louis-Joseph was educated al the Quebec
Seminary, and had for class-mates, amongst others, the
genial and talented author of the Canadians of Old.
Philippe A. DeGaspe, Esq. : Mr. DeGaspe, in his Memoirs,
has recorded several interesting particulars of the sludi-
ousness, (i) wit, and eloquence of the budding statesman.
Young Mr. Papineau's abilities had s-o impressed his friends,
that he was returned to Parliament whilst yet a law student,
in 1809, two years previous to his admission to the Bar :
he represented the county of Kent — now the county of

(1) L,0. David, in an interesting biographical sketch of the great
agitator, recalls a trait of his ready repartee, when a mere child.
One day, Mr. Papineau, sr., had a numerous dinner party of gentle
men : Joseph-Louis drew near his father and took his seat, as was cus
tomary when there was no company present.
His indulgent parent beckonned to him to go and sit at the next
table laid out for the juveniles, adding " when you have beard on
your chin, my boy, you may he allowed to sit at table with grown up
persons.'' Crestfallen, Louis-Joseph, accordingly took a back seat. Just
then the house cat, drew near his chair : he scared her off " saying"
you, pussy, you have a beard, go to the next table ; " the joke caused
a hearty laugh all round.

— 126 —
Chambly — for twenty consecutive years, he represented in
Parliament the west ward of Montreal. In 1812, although
no lover of the British Government, true to his allegiance^
he served as a captain in the militia, until 1815 : having to-
escort to Montreal some American prisoners, he left the
ranks and refused to take his place, until the band of the
escort had ceased playing ' Yankee Doodle ', in derision of
the captives. Three years after his entrance in his legisla
tive halls, he was chosen as leader of the French Canadian
opposition party, a position which he held unlil the insur
rection of 1837. For twenty years, from 181 7 to 1837, he
was Speaker ofthe Legislative Assembly. In 1820, (i) he
was elevated to a seat in '.he Legislative Council. In 1822,
we find him selected in conjunction with the late Hon.
John Neilson, as a delegate to proceed to England to oppose
the Imperial plan for the union of Upper and Lower

(1), An intelligent correspondent calls our attention to a speech
of the Hon, Louis-J. Papineau during the elections at Montreal, in
1820, and forwards us a valuable extract — valuable because ofthe
source from whioh it comes. The period at which Mr, Papineau
delivered these sentiments was immediately after the death of George
the Third ; but they are especially pertinent to the present time,
when, as our correspondent observes, there exists in tliis section of
the Province a party usually styled " Young Canada," ardent admi
rers of the Gpvernment of France, and who, no doubt, imagine it
would be a great blessing if these Provinces were under its paternal
care. Having alluded to the generally prevailing sorrow of the people
of Canada at the loss of their sovereign, Mr, Papineau continued i
" And how could it be otherwise, when each year of his long reign
" has been marked by new favors bestowed on the countiy. 'To enu-
" merate these, and to detail the history of this countiy for so many
'¦ years, would occupy more time than can be spared by those whom
" I have the honor to address. Suffice it then, at a glance, to compare
" our present happy situation with that of bur fathers on the eve of
" the day, when George III became their legitimate monarch. Suffice
" it to recollect that under the French Government (internally and
" externally arbitrary aud oppressive) the interests of this country
" have been more frequently neglected and maladministered than
" any other part of its dependencies. In its estimation, Canada seems
V not to have been considered as a country, which, from fertility of
" soil, salubrity of climate, and extent of territory, might have been
" the peaceful abode of a numerous and happy population ; but as a

— 127 —
Canada : a mission crowned with complete success, the
obnoxious measure having been withdrawn. His share in
the rebeUion of 1837, we all know : he had to fly to the
United States : and a price put on his head.
In 1839, hs crossed the Atlantic and buried himself ia
seclusion, in the city of Paris, for eight years, with no other
famihars but Lamennais, Bdranger, and a few other French
master-minds. Through the exertions of his great adversary,
— Lafontaine, he was subsequently pardoned ; he received
also through the same influence, ;^4,5oo arrears of his pay
as late Speaker. His thrilling accents were soon again
heard in the legislative halls, but times and politics had
changed : many of the reforms previously asked for had
been granted : the great tribune found in 1847 the soil
yielding under his feet : another master-spirit, (Sir) Louis-
Hippolyte Lafontaine, had come lo the front.

" military post, [whose feeble garrison was condemned to live in a
" state of perpetual warfare and insecurity, frequently suffering from
" famine, without trade, or with a trade monopolized by privileged
" companies, public and private property often pillaged, and personal ,
" liberty daily violated.^'
After going on to speak of the transfer of the Province to George
III, and to pay a well deserved compliment to that Monarch at the
expense of Louis XV, he proceeds as follows : —
" From that doy the reign ofthe law succeeded to that of violence —
" from that day the treasures, the navy and ths armies of Great
" Britain were mustered to afford us an invincible protection against
" external danger ; from that day the better part of them laws became
" ours, while our religion, property and the laws by which they were
" governed remain unaltered ; soon after are granted to us the privi-
" leges of its free institutions, an infaillible pledge, when acted upon,
" of our internal prosperity. Now religious toleration ; trial by jury,
" that ¦wisest of safeguards ever devised for the protection of inno-
" cence j security against arbitrary imprisonment bv the privileges
" attached to the writ of habeas corpus ; legal and equal security
" afforded to all in their person, honor and property ; the right to
" obey no other l^ws, but those of our own making and choice,
" expressed through our representatives ; all these advantages have
" become our birthright, and shall, I hope, be the lasting inheritence
" of our posterity."
Such was the view taken of the position of Canada, so far back as
1820, by this celebrated French Canadian.

— 128 —
One of the changes Mr. Papineau had so warmly advo
cated in i837,an elective Legislative Council, strange to say,
found an echo later on. A briUiant constellation of youth
ful Montreal lawyers, the Dorion, Doutre, Papin, Labreche-
Viger, Laberge, Laflararae and others, made it a plank of
their platform in the Avenir newspaper. Mr. Papineau was
the oracle — the high priest of this ardent, eloquent and
patriotic band, who have lived mostly all of them, to see
themselves, released from the cold shades of opposi
tion in order to enjoy the highest offices in the gift of the
Crown and people. The fiery statesman, withdrew for ever,
in 1854, frora the arena of pohtics : he was in the habit of
passing the winter season at Montreal, in the society of a
few tried friends : the suraraer months he devoted to his
family at his elegant Chateau, Montebello, in his seigniory
of La Petite Nation, on the green banks of the Ottawa :
here, amidst his plantations, his flowers, his birds and books,
he found sincere friends, and trusty advisers, in those dear
old authors, Montaigne, Seneca, Plutarch, Bacon, &c. ; of
their intercourse, he never tired. Here, on one mellow day
in September, 1871 (the 28th), at the ripe age of 83 years,
death released his noble spirit, not however with the usual
accompaniment on his part of a son of Rome. Mr. Papi
neau, like Sainte Beuve, refused to see, in his last moments,
the R. C. pastor, though his remains were placed by loving
hands in a tomb in his own .private chapel at Montebello,
which chapel he had had consecrated by the R. C. autho
rities some years previous.
The power wielded for a quarter of a century over the
masses in Lower Canada, by Mr. Papineau, was something
marvellous, .though the influence his impassioned appeals
•exerted, may seera incredible to those who never witnessed
the display. Mr. Papineau had unquestionably several of
the attributes which QuintiUian and others assign to the
public speaker. His domestic life was spotless : his tastes

— 129 —
elevated — pure ; his education and fortune had opened out
to him the choicest stores of learning : Vir probus dicendi
peritus, he certainly was.
Was it then surprising if, at the peroration of a fiery
onslaught on colonial abuses — or at the close of a scathing
denunciation of the ostracism of his race, attempted by the
grasping bureaucracy which then invaded every avenue to
preferment — or even, to justice, was it surprising to hear
deafening cheers and frantic spectators, seizing hold of the
fearless speaker and carrying him in triuraph to his hotel, or
his horae ? No parliamentary orator in the Province of
Quebec ever struck so surely, so powerfully, the popular
chord, as did this indefatigable champion of popular
rights? (i)
In June, 1837, when I saw him first, he was inthe zenith
of his farae, though coraing events were already looming
out portentously.
A split in the party of the patriots was at hand, the Hon.
John Neilson and some others, had refused to abet armed
resistance to British rule : in this they differed from the
patriots of the Montreal district.
A grand gathering of the Nationality Canadienne was to
take place on the 24th June, 1837, in a beautiful maple
grove owned by Captain Faucher, at St. Thoraas : the festi
val, dear to all Canadians, the F^te de la St. Jean Baptiste,
was to be solemnized here by all the " patriotes " of ever so

(1) ' If,' says his biographer, L.-O. David, ' posterity, oblivious of
his genius, ever dare to ask what Papineau had done for his country,
let his voice reply from his tomb ; " Je vous ai fait respecter, j'ai
appris au monde que dans un coin de I'Amerique quelques milliers
de Fran^ais, vaincus par les armes apr&s une lutte heroique, avaient
su arracher leurs droits et leurs libertes des griffes de leurs vain-
queurs. J'ai, pendant trente ans, guid6 mes compatriotes dans des
combats qui ont fait I'admiration des nations 6trang6res, et j'ai appris
h, mes fiers conqu6rants qu'ils ne pourraient jamais enchalner ma
patrie." '

— 130 —
many counties, not only by the destruction of hundreds of
lovely young maple trees as is now the unhallowed custom,
but in a much more appropriate manner : by speeches, a
banquet with — music — songs — a display of artillery and of
cavalry. The Demosthenes of Parliament was to address
the people, on their wrongs and the mode of redress,
flanked by the elite of the House of Assembly, Sir E. P.
Tachd (then Dr. E.-P. Tachd) his friend. Notary Jean-
Charles Letourneau, M. P. P., for Islet, Messrs. L.-H. La
Fontaine, Girouard, Fortin, A.-N. Morin, cum multis aliis.
The fire eaters of two or three counties met accordingly,
and what with oratory, mild punch, music and songs, the
discharge of fowling pieces, and the presence of the best
trotting horses of the three counties, mounted by warlike
young peasants in neat white and grey uniforms with wreaths
•of maple leaves, the pageant was a memorable one, and very
creditable to the enterprise of the " patriotes. "
A full account is given by the Canadien newspaper ofthe
3rd July, 1837. Once th.efUe ended, the liberator in a
¦showy carriage, foUowed by much ofthe " rank and fashion "
of the disaffected counties, was to drive all the way to
Kamouraska, to visit an important personage of the day :
J. -Ble. Tachd, brother to Sir E.-P. Tach^, whose services
to Canada subsequently, invested hira with a knighthood
and the honorary title of aide-de-camp to the Queen.
It was judged suitable that popular respect and ovations
should attend the march of the Hon. Louis-J. Papineau,
not only araongst grown up raen ready to bleed for their
country, but even araongst prattling school-boys. Thus, was
brought in, the parish school of St. Thomas. It was so fated
that in " jacket and frills " I tound myself a juvenile
inmate of this rustic academy. Our schoolmaster's name
was Mercier. Dominie Mercier was no less celebrated for
the zest and vigour with which he wielded the birch rod
¦over the shoulders of his refractory subjects, than for his

— 131 —
demonstrative patriotism amongst their fathers : he was
what then was styled " un bon patriote, " ready to vote
down at a moment's notice, the importation of any dutiable
English goods : broadcloth, cutlery, tea, &c. (i) Mr, Mer,
•cier was determined his school should offer ocular proof of
the glowing patriotism, which, there bubbled up, like, from
a fountain. The great statesman, Papineau, being pressed
for time, could not stop, even to receive addresses : it was
then decided by the Dominie, that an address, brief but
gushing, should be delivered to the liberator, as the carriage
roUed past the school, on its way to Kamouraska. To the
tallest boy was allotted the envied honour of acting as
spokesman. He, as well as his corarades, for the nonce had
been suitably drilled in court etiquette : all the " hopefuls "
were to stand in line on the road side, and when in presence
of the carriage, the tallest was to advance three steps, right
foot first, take off his cap, and deliver in a loud, raeasured
voice the patriotic salutation or address :
" Honneur et gloire au brave el gdndreux De'fenseur de
nos droits I
Hourah ! Hourah ! I Hourah 111",
These three hourraKs were to be given with deafening
cheers, all hats off ; so it was ordained, and so it was done.
The defender of our rights gracefully bowed to us. As the
taUesl of the boys was your humble servant, the entry in
this old diary may be relied on.

(1) During this stormy period of 1837, some of the more enthu
siastic patriots, in order to dry up England's revenue in the colony,
had gone so far as to discard every article of raiment on which duty
was levied. A professional man, I knew, wore home spun breeches,
coat ditto, a straw hat, a neck-tie of Canadian linen and beef mocas
sins with the traditional round toes.

— 132 —
The Riviere du Sud and its tributary, the Bras St. Nico
las, at Montmagny, are both spanned by two solid bridges
for passengers and two railway bridges also. The next station
is at Cap St. Ignace, a prosperous village of about i,8oo
souls, with a point jutting out in the St. Lawrence, opposite
Crane Island Manor— known as Le Petit Cap. Next comes
Islet, an extensive village, facing the west end of Goose
Island — renowned sporting grounds, both — the population
of Crane and Goose Islands, raay tot up to 850 ; on the
first island, a handsome new church is just corapleted —
and the second now belongs to the Hotel-Dieu Nuns of
Quebec : to this fertile isle, the Granville legend lends a
romantic interest The hamlet of St. Jean Port-Joli and that
of St Roch-des-Aulnaies, follow : inthe pretty viUage of St
Jean-Port-Joli, is still extent the decayed old manor of its
talented seigneur, Philippe-Aubert DeGasp^, who at the age
of 77, all at once discovered he could write and that remark
ably well — in proof whereof his, exquisite book " Les
Anciens Canadiens."

STE. ANNE DE LA POCATlfeRE.
Let us cast a rapid glance on the chief parishes, we shall
meet on the lower St. Lawrence, as the iron horse hurries
us through. A public spirited pastor, Revd. Charles-F.
Painchaud, has left at Ste. Anne de la Pocatiere a durable
monument of his enlightened interest in this old, now
populous settlement, conceded as a seigniory, by Intendant
Talon, to Demoiselle Marie-Anne Juchereau, widow] of
sieur de la Combe-Pocatifere, on the 29th October, 1672.
In the year 1827, Curd Painchaud devoted his savings to
founding a splendid college, for the higher branches of

— 133 —
education. The institution, through successive bequests,
has much extended the sphere of its usefulness. A hand
some chapel, vast wings, a model school of agriculture and
farm have been added by other benefactors : Revd. Messrs.
Proulx, Gauvreau, Pelletier, Pilote. An admirable site had
been originally selected for this stately pile of buildings
facing the St. Lawrence, close to a lofty pine-crowned cape.
The college numbers about 230 pupils and 30 professors ;
Ste. Anne boasts of a weekly paper devoted to agriculture,
La Gazette des Campagnes. Revd. Messire Painchaud
closed his career on the 9th February, 1838, and was
buried at Crane Island, his native parish. I have published
elsewhere the touching and eloquent letter received by this
earnest missionary of progress, in 1827, from the illustrious
Viscount De Chateaubriand, Vide Album du Touriste.

Rivilre Quelle, the home of Ex. Governor Letellier and of
the Rev. Abb'e H.-R. Oasgrain, F. R. S. C.—The
porpoises of Rivilre Quelle.
Rivifere Ouelle, seventy-nine miles from Quebec, is a
flourishing -village — with a port for schooners — forming
part of the populous county of Kamouraska, for a quarter
of a century, faraous as the arena of most turbulent election
eering campaigns.
Here more than once, met at the hustings two sturdy
champions — the Hon. Jean-Charles Chapais, a conserva
tive, and the Hon. Luc LeteUier de Saint-Just,' a liberal —
both Senators, the latter, as Lieutenant-Governor of Quebec,
well remembered for the coi*p d'Stat of 1878 ; and truly
when they did meet, then began the tug of war.
Governor LeteUier's residence may yet be seen at a spot
called Les C6teaux, about a mile frora the parish church.
9

— ¦ 134 —
There, devoted friends and loving relatives closed his eyes,
in the welcorae sluraber of death on the 28th of January,
1 88 1. One mile and raore past the bridge, on the banks
of the St. Lawrence, occurs a well-known landmark for
mariners — a promontory projecting in the St Lawrence,
styled La Pointe de la Rivifere-Ouelle, during more than a
century a busy fishing stand for the capture of the lordly
porpoise, found there in droves during the summer months.
Before describing this iraportant industry, be it known
that Rivifere-OueUe gave birth to one of the most indus
trious and brilliant merabers of the group of savants, and
litterati, selected by the Marquis of Lome, in 1882, to con
stitute the Royal Society of Canada — the Rev. Abbe
Henri-Rayraond Casgrain. Close to the parish church, on
the river bank, stiU stands the antique manor ofthe respected
Seigneur Casgrain, the father of two Abbes, a senator and
a member of Dominion Parliament.
Rivifere OueUe, sung in prose and verse by its gifted son,
is known far and wide, as much for its weird, Indian legends
as it was, untU lately, from being the haunt and landing
place/a/- excellence of the while porpoises of the northern
portion of this continent
A few years back, happening to visit my friend the Abbe,
in his ancestral home, at Rivifere Ouelle, he gave me a full
account of the mode of capture of the porpoise, on the coast
and kindly conducted rae to the rocky shore, on which are
visible to this day, the imprint of a man walking on snow
shoes, referring rae also to a paper he published on this
subject, and a portion of which appeared in a condensed
form in that standard Magazine of sport. Forest and
Stream. It would appear that this branch of industry dates as far
back as the end ofthe seventeenth century — 1680-1699 
when King Louis XIV granted M. de Vitry, a member of

— 135 —
the Sovereign CouncU of Quebec, authority to place nets at
4his spot for the capture of the porpoise, together with a
subsidy, "in rope one or two inches thick, io,ooolbs. of cod
line, " and what was slill more handy, " 500 livres " in hard
cash. Though the munificent grant was repeated for M. de Vitry,
more than once, the venture failed. In 1705 another attempt
was made ; since that date weir fisheries for porpoise have
always continued in use at this locality. The first regular
grant of the right to fish at the Pointe of Rivifere Ouelle, was
registered by Intendant Raudot, on the 20th July, 1707, in
favor of a co-partnership composed of six inhabitants — all
neighbors, who were authorized to catch this unwieldy flsh
on the river frontage of their lands by the King of France,
the seignior of the fief, le Sieur de Boishebert, consenting.
The tenth part of the porpoise oil paid over to the seign
iors of Rivifere OueUe since 1748, is not a seigniorial due ; of
the fishery right, droit depkhe, in favor of the first occupants
of the soil. It is a voluntary tribute, paid under a special
agreement between the tenants and Madame de Boishebert,
the widow of the son of the first seigneur, M. de la Boutheil-
lerie, in consideration of services rendered them by the said
seignior in a contestation as to territorial hraits, which had
arisen between themselves, and the inhabitants of Ste. Anne,
and also in consideration of a further promise on the seign
ior's part, to continue to help them.
In June, 1752, Intendant Bigot published a singular
ordonance, imposing heavy fines on any sportsman who
would have the audacity to discharge his gun on the Point
-of Rivifere-OueUe, and also on proprietors allowing their
¦cattle to stray anywhere near the beach. The products of
these fines was reversible to the church fund of the parish.
On the 2Sth of January, 1798, Messrs. Lymburner and
Crawford, two leading Lower Town (of Quebec) merchants
¦of the day, took a lease of the Rivifere-Ouelle porpoise

— 136 —
fishery. Instead of looking after this important undertakings
themselves, they intrusted it to careless agents, who, by
their profuse expenditure, luxurious, or riotous mode of
living, entailed on their employers, losses so great, that
Lymburner and Crawford were glad to ask, in 1 804, for a.
cancellation ofthe lease.
Marvellous and endless were the stories related touching:
the firm's magnificent mansion, on the wild-wooded, some
said haunted, point of Rivifere-Ouelle ; the spot was also ax
favorite resting place for the canoes of the numerous
Indians then ascending, or descending the St. Lawrence.
This, doubtless, gave rise to some of the most sensational
legends of the locality ; but history also furnished its quota
of stirring traditions during the sieges of 1690 and 1759.
The oldest inhabitant could relate how some of the yawls
and pinnaces attached to Admiral Phip's fleet, in attempting
to land at the point, in October, 1690, had sustained a-
withering fire from some unseen foes hid by the rocks on
the shore — the youthful chasseurs of the parish, led on and
placed in ambush by their warlike priest, M. de Franche-
ville !
Who has not also heard of the weird old picture so gush
ingly described by the Abb6 Casgrain, now existing in a
lateral chapel of the parish church ? Though valueless as a
work of art, it is a prized ex-voto, presented to the church by
the son of a French officer, charged by the Governor of
New France to carry despatches in the depth of winter, to
the French posts on the Lower St. Lawrence. This youth
had seen his aged parent succumb to the wintry blast after
losing, in an encounter with the Iroquois, his pocket compass
and viewing his Indian guides shot down before his eyes ;
the old warrior before expiring had made his son vow to
present a picture lo the first church he should meet, and he
himself had been rescued from a most miserable death 

— 137 —
•starvation in the woods — by a traveling missionary, passing
l)y. How graphically all this is told by the abbd ?
" It was by mere chance," says Casgrain, " that the dis
covery was made how stakes could be utilized to arrest the
progress of the gigantic fish — the porpoises." The apparatus
Js Composedofaweirof slakes frorai8 to 20 feet long, planted
about one foot apart in the mud, about one mile and a half
from high-water mark and which is dry at low water. Each
spring 7,200 poles or stakes are used. Formerly these stakes
were held together with ropes. The semi-circle forming the
fishery is a mile and a third in length and ends in a curve,
five acres from the extreme end ofthe Rivifere-Ouelle pointe.
There lies the entrance, for the fish to come in, called
raccroc. The weir is built out between the 5th and 25th
April, when the caplin and smelts come to spawn close in
shore. The spawning takes place at the flood. The hour of
flood for the porpoise is his dinner hour, when he gorges
himself on caplin and smelts. A meager, famished creature
on his arrival, he becomes, after eight or ten days feasting,
bloated with fat even to eight inches thick.
A wonderful guzzler he gets to be, with digestive powers
which nothing can appal.
Caplin and smelts are a sleep-producing food ; after a
square meal on such, the porpoise naturally feels languid
and sleepy, an easy prey to his captor.
In the school of porpoises there occur some cunning
veterans, which the fishermen style savants or coureurs de
Joches. These sly old sea foxes have escaped from dangers
innumerable, and can steer their way fearlessly through the
stakes. Occasionally one may be seen stationed at the
entrance of the fishery, warning his comrades to shun the
treacherous stakes, and when they disregard his note of
alarm, barring their passage. Should the giddy youths per
sist in entering, old reynard will show them how to creef^

— 138 —
out of the stakes. These veterans can only be trapped where
a long course of over-feeding makes them fat, stolid and
stupid. Nothing more striking than lo watch from the point of
Rivifere Ouelle a drove of porpoises, on a calm summer day,,
gulping down in myriads the small fish wilhin a stone's-
throw from the beach, swiraraing in hundreds close to the
surface and spouting from their air holes the briny surf,
which falls back, in the sun like a glittering shower of
pearls, into the sea.
It is while securing thus their prey, that the porpoises,
heavy and sleepy, rush heedlessly into the fishery entrance.
Once inside, instinct tells them to seek deep water ; they
thus cross the fishery diagonally and meet the lofty stakes
which look to thera like a wall, whose points, set in motion
by the tide, scare them. They then retrace their course and
seek to escape in deep water, but the excursion takes them
back to what is known as the raccroc, where the shallow-
water warns them of impending danger. They then appear
dazed, and do not show themselves at the surface.
After a few more attempts to escape, they seek the deepest
water within the slakes, and swira round slowly ; this is
called sounding. During aU this time the tide is running.
out and the huge creatures — some of them 25ft long —
remain an easy prey to the harpooners.
During the high tides porpoises occasionally drift ashore
on the beach, but this does not happen during neap tides. As
many as 500 have been formerly caught at one ride, and the
catch of a season has reached the figure of 1,800.
In 1867, 100 porpoise were kiUed in one night, this was.
considered remarkable ; harpoons and lances are used to
despatch them. The harpoon has projections which open-
out, and the harpooner stands erect in the bow of his canoe
or boat ; the fish when struck rushes away, along with the

— 139 —
boat, which is carried through the water with the velocity of
an arrow.
For some years past, the white porpoise seems to have
deserted its old haunt at Rivibre-OueUe ; by some the fre
quent noise of the passing steamers is assigned as a cause.
They have been pretty plentiful this suraraer at the entrance
of the Saguenay River, and on the north shore of the St.
Lawrence — where they are not caught in weirs and har
pooned — but shot with a rifle from a boat and harpooned ;
a doubtful process.
Ahh6 Casgrain pointed out the curious human foot-prints
on the rock of the point, where also I saw the indenture
and marks of snowshoes, in the solid shelving rocks ;
another fruitful subject of mysterious surmise for the legend-
loving dwellers in Rivifere-Ouelle. " The foot prints ofthe
d — 1, said one fisherman. " But why shquld Lucifer have
left his warm home ? another repUed, " to ramble in winter
on snowshoes over the rocky shore. " Mystery I raystery !
but all in keeping with the weird and tragical legend of
Madame Houel, the widow of M. Houel, a controleur-gen'eral,
under the French regime who gave his name to the parish,
and furnished Abbd Casgrain the frame work for his fasci
nating legend " La Jongleuse, " of which a short notice,,
from the " Maple Leaf, " published in New- York, raay be
acceptable.
KAMOURASKA.
Let us describe this famous old watering place, on the
lower St Lawrence, five miles lower down than this back
range, St. Paschal railway station. It was conceded on the
14th July, 1674, to Sieur de la Durantaye. A lineal descen
dant, seignior of the Kamouraska Isles, Sieur de la Duran
taye feU into the clutches of Major Robert Slobo, in the
spring of 1759, when this brave but unscrupulous officer,

— 140 —
escaped from a Quebec prison, was on his way to join the
English fleet at Louisbourg, aad returned with it to capture
Quebec. St. Louis de Kamouraska possesses a handsome church
and a convent. An Islet poet, Arthur Casgrain, in a humo
rous epic, has sang the ineffable charms of this favored
land, opened up to the outer world by the construction of
the Grand Trunk Railway, in 1855.
Kamouraska its " verdant isles like a handful of emeralds
dropped by the angel of the sea, " — its soft, sandy beaches,
its " graceful raermaids, " its shady groves, have during the
leafy, months, fired raore than one son of Phoebus- Apollo.
What an arcadian region from June to September? To me,
it recalls the poetie effusions of an esteemed confrlre, A.-B.
Routier, F. R. S. C, whose lyre so tuneful in the hey-day
of his youth, is now set aside for the grave ermine of the
judge. " Kamouraska, says he, is a modern viUage. It has
its hotels, its restaurants, its shops and its shop-keepers, its
notaries, doctors, lawyers, its athletes ; alas ! its gin palaces
and their inmates, its Fausts and Margueritas, its Romeos
and Juliets, ils Paris, its Menelas, its Helene ; it nearly had
its Trojan war. A newspaper it has not, but some of its
elder dames fill up ils place advantageously.'' And next
comes his graphic description of the Petit Cap, lo the north
east, " on whose base the billows of the St. Lawrence fret
and whose spruce-crowned summit, give it the aspect of an
old Druid with a thick head of hair. A sacred spot where
the warblers of the grove congregate, as well as dreamers
and lovers. What weirdy romantic tales, could be heard
here, had the wind-stirred trees, the gift of utterance ? "
Amidst this delightful gossip, I could not help noticing a
thoughtful look on the face of a fellow passenger sitting
next to me. After a few seconds, he said sententiously :
" Do you not think that for an unsophisticated bachelor,
seeking health in such a seductive spa as Kamouraska,
peril lurks, especially if he should be unfortunate enough

— 141 —
to be classed as to his means or expectations, as un Milord
Anglais." " True, " said I ; " barken, however, to the philosophical
maxims, recently promulgated by a French Sage of note,
for the benefit of tourists in general and in particular for
such a Telemachus as you make yourself out, traveUing
abroad without his mentor."
M. Boucher de Perthes in his letter C X E V I thus
admonishes youthful travellers : " As to love raaking, says
he, you must abstain from it entirely. For your life, dare
not wink in return to a girl, especially if she is pretty and
young. There would of course be less danger, were she
ugly, and still less, were she old. But even when possessed
of these two advantages, beware of her, unless you have
made sure, that she has not a husband, nor a lover, nor a
father, nor a mother, nor a brother, nor a sister, nor a niece,
nor a cousin, nor ever heirs of whatever degree ; else, the
least trouble which' might befall you, raight be the treat
ment inflicted on Heloise's lover — (Abelard) — and this
might mar your matrimonial schemes I " One more word
anent the elysium of omx jeunesse dork, before bidding it
adieu. One of the most striking features m the landscape, is the
cluster of green isles, dear to pic-nic parties, facing the vil
lage, each having its history or legend : Martinique Island,
Providence island, He Brdlee, Crow Island, with the larg
est of the group, Grosse He, standing out with its beacon,
a luminous sentinel, over its smaller sisters, during the
sUent watches of night.
" From the river, the white village of Kamouraska might
be taken," says a poet, " for a herd of sea gulls or swans,
lighted on a point of land, or swimming in the surf, when
the mirage lends its illusions to the scene."
Sweet haven of delight during the dog days, adieu!.
adieu 1

— 142 —
rivi£re du LOUP.
Rivilre du Loup, an important centre of the IntercoloniaF
and Temiscouata Railways, has of late years evoluted into-
the progressive town of Fraserville. Though its seignior is
a Fraser and in addition, a public benefactor of the town^
he was not The Fraser, on the memorable occasion, in 1868,
when it was attempted to reconstruct this ancient and valiant
Scottish clan, and to narae provincial, county and parish
chieftains. In 1868, the head chief The Fraser, was the
Hon. John Fraser de Berry, L. C. Saint Marc, near Mon
treal and not Fraserville, enjoyed the honor of being the
head-quarters of this eminent " 58th descendant of Jules de
Berry, a rich and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast
to the Emperor Charlemagne and his nuraerous suite at his
castle in Normandy, in the 8th century." The Saint Marc
chieftain maintained that De Berry regaled Charlemagne
with strawberries (fraises, in the French language), and that
the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he ordered that he
should henceforth be know as Fraser de Berry and from
him the Clan Fraser traces ils descent. This pet scheme
ofthe Hon. John Fraser ds Berry, naturally called (i) forth
(To the Editor of the Morning Chronicle.)
THE FRASER CLAN.
(1) Sir, — I have been much gratified by your liberal and ilattering^
notice of the late " gathering ofthe clans" at Mrs. Brown's Restau
rant. At the same time, 1 feel it my duty to supply an omission in
your account of the proceedings, and also to bring proof of a fact of
which you seem to entertain some doubt.
It was decided at the meeting that the chiefs and others who
should attend the gathering, in May next, should be requested to
appear in full Highland costume. During the discussion which arose
on the subject, a proposal was made to have the kilts of itofe du
pays, but this was immediately quashed by our worthy chief, who
has ordered a web ofthe real clan tartan from the " land ofthe Gael, "
so that he and the fifty-eighth descendant may make an imposing
appearance on the eventful day. At the same times he strongly

— 143 —
a deal of curious and harmless banter in the English and
French press. The numerous and very respectable Fraser
clan in the Province of Quebec, having branched off into
so many, so varied septs, some having quite forgotten the
traditions of the land of the Gael '¦ — its national costume

recommended the clansmen to learn thename of the several portions
of their national costume, such as philibeg, sporan, claymore, skene-
dhu, *c., and to provide the articles required. All present agreed to
follow his advice, with one exception, a modest man, who is ashamed
to show his legs, aud who swore, with emphatic sacr6 that he would
wear his culottes on the occasion.
With reference to your implied doubt as to the lineal descent of
our chief from Jules de Berry, I am happy to say that, I can bring
unquestionable proof of the interesting fact. In a rare work, (which
may be found in the circulating library ofthe "Cerele litteraire de St.
Sauveu/r,") entitled ; " Bistoire du Clarme Fraisere depuis la criation,"
par Q. Fraisere. Paris, A. D. 1161. Tome I, page 513, is an a,cooxiiA
of the identical banquet giveu to Charlemagne, by the nobleman
above referred to. It was on this interesting occasion that the family
received its name. The knight, on bended knee, presented a plate
of strawberries to his guest, who, surprised at the pleasing incident,
— for the fruit was not in season — exclaimed, (the Emperor's know
ledge of the French was limited,) Hallo I fraises, Sir de Berry I — and
condescended to partake. After enjoying the luoious fruit, he ordered
that to commemorate the event, his host should for the future bear
the title of Fraisere jocularly adding (Charlemagne was fond of capi
tal jokes,) that no one could fail to see the derivation of his name,
for he had it both in French and English — Fraiser cfe Berry It will
thus be seen that our chief is not descended from a man of straw,
but from a man of strawberries.
The clan, however, existed long before this period. No reasonable
doubt cau be entertained of their direct descent from one of the sons
of Noah, and perhaps they existed even before the deluge. Indeed,
the rare work above mentioned gives in tome I, page 125, an affidavit
from an eye witness, who deposed that he saw Japhet going into the
ark, carrying a large tin box with a brass padlock, (Tubal-Cain's
patent, probably,) on which was inscribed in white letters "Papiers
des Friseurs." "These were no doubt, i^apers relating to the clan,
though some critics, (envious of our antiquity) inshiuate that they
were only Madame Japhet's curl-papers, stored away for use in the
ark, and locked up to keep them from her quarrelsome sisters-in-law.
Again I thank your, Sir, and beg to inform you that whenever you
eall at my house, the bumper of Glenlivat is at your service.

L.-X. Fraser,
Notaire q

Quebec, 26th Feb., 1868.

— 144 —
and language, the idea had ultimately to be abandoned
as impracticable.
Fraserville, with its handsome new Roman CathoUc
temple of worship, ornate villas, prosperous store-keepers,
numerous hotels, and increasing population, was well
worthy of becoming the county town — .a. distinction, until
recently, enjoyed by its rival, St. Louis de Kamouraska.
At the roaring waterfall, close to the extensive Intercolo
nial RaUway station, the stream rushes wildly over a cliff
about 80 feet high, then pauses to rest in the deep pool
below ere blending its dark waters with the St. Lawrence.
Fraserville is the terminus ofthe Temiscouata Railway, (i)
jnst now opened to traffic; a thriving new Une 81 miles
long, recently built from Riviere du Loup to Edmunston,
N. B., to connect with the New Brunswick Railway, at
Edmunston. Il opens out the settlements and lumbering establish
ments on the Madawaska' valley, skirting for twenty odd
miles the shore of the picturesque Temiscouata Lake, the
home of the Touladi, (Great Grey Trout) of the pointus,
{white fish) and of ordinary lake trout.
The Temiscouata Lake, with its winding headlands,
green slopes and deep ravines, bids fair to attract crowds
of anglers, though the Touladi — which attain as much as
15 lbs in weight — are caught chiefly with bait on night
lines, or by troUing, at the mouths of the rivers which dis
charge in the lake : this fierce denizen of the liquid element
is also captured on night Unes in winter under the ice, in
the lake.
I saw some very fair specimens taken there, on 2rst
June last — when I visited Edmunston — a lovely viUage of
Acadians on the Madawaska. Monsieur Hebert, the pro
prietor of the village hostelry, inforraed me that life had
<1) Temiscouata, in Indian dialect " Winding Eiver. "

— 145 —
not always been so easy at Edmunston ; that his great-
grand father, one of Col. Lawrence exUes of Sept 1755, had
settled, here, bringing his family frora Acadia, in his birch
canoe and grinding the corn daily for ils subsistence in a
portable hand raill.
On a height which commands the lake, stands old Fort
Ingalls — to be fitted up — t'is said, as an hotel for tourists ;
untH 1850, it was garrisoned by 200 British soldiers.
The principal settleraent on the lake shore is Notre-Dame
du Lac, founded in i86i — population about 300 souls.
St. Modeste, St. Frangois, St. Honor^, St Louis, Fort
Ingalls, Notre-Darae du Lac, Ste. Rose, St. Jacques, Otter-
burn and Edmunston are the chief railway stations.
Rivibre du Loup with its .sloping hills, dotted with villas,
closed in by Pointe d, Beaulieu, and by the river pier, in the
distance, appears with advantage from the village. Its former
name, is said to have originated in the olden times, when
the phocse, loups-marins, were in the habit of congregating in
large droves at its entrance in the St. Lawrence, making
night hideous with their cries ; long since, they have
changed their haunts.
CACOUNA.
I can recall Cacouana, in 1854, when it was but an
inconsiderable, vUlage, and when the want of a railway and
a wharf compelled one to land in a small boat, whilst a hay
cart and horse were driven in the surf to receive the
baggage from the boat. It is now the Brighton and Biarritz
of Canada, in much request by our rank and fashion during :
the hot spell, from tropical June to cool September ; its
capacious St. Lawrence Hall can accoramodate 600 guests,
and the smaller hotels and cottages of the peasantry,
receive as many more travellers and pleasure-seekers. A
number of Quebec and Montreal merchants and pro-

— 146 —
fessional men, have selected for themselves pleasant retreats,
on the lofty bank skirting the highway, handy to the beach
and sea-bathing. Lake Saint Simon, a few miles in rear,
furnishes good sport to the angler, whilst riding, driving and
pic-nics, &c., fiU in the spare hours of leisure. A good beach,
pure, cool air, brUhant northern scenery, grand river views
from the heights and excellent railway accommodation :
such are the specialities of Cacouna— 4j^ miles from the
¦railway station. ILE-VERTE.
There is nothing very noteworthy about the parish of
He Vette, Green Island, which borrows its name from the
¦verdant isle facing the viUage.
TROIS PISTOLES.
It leads to the extensive, old village of Trois Pistoles,
-where the Intercolonial Railway passengers stop twenty
minutes for lunch. The veterans of the Quebec Bar
teU of a famous law suit, originated in this parish by
a change having been made in the public road — which was
laid out to run on the slope of a hiil, instead of in an
adjoining valley ; the residents above would have nothing
to do with those living below, even in spiritual matters.
Each portion had its Roman Catholic church for years.
Better counsels at last prevailed, chiefly through the wise
arid concihatory action of the Bishop : the lower church
was ultimately closed, much to the regret of the Quebec
limbs of the law.
What about the narae ?
" About the year 1700, according to a tradirion in my
family, said to rae. Monsieur D'Amour, a descendant of
the proud old seigniors, a fisher fiom France had established
his hut on the rocky banks of the river. One day a hunter

— 147 —
hailed him from the opposite shore, asking how much he
would charge to ferry him over.
" Trois Pistoles" said the disciple of old Isaak, who was
-also the ferryman.
— " Whatnamedoes thatrivergoby ?" asked the sportsman.
" It has none as yet, but will be christened soon " repUed
he of the ferry.
— " Call it Trois Pistoles, my friend," said the hunter.
" Such is the tradition current for more than a century in
my faraily, " said Monsieur D'Amour, once the active
caterer for the railway restaurant."
Extensive lumber establishments, provided with rich
timber limits, lately existed on this river.
The train next stops at two smaU stations, St. Simon
and St, Fabien. ST. FABIEN.
St Fabien is a succession of hiUs, with a very unin
teresting landscape, and a frugal, industrious and peaceful
populatioB. St. Simon shut out from the river view, between
two mountains, is raonotonous in the extrerae. The road
runs at the bottom of a valley, with sloping pasture-lands
and farms on each side, a distance of sorae six miles. Lake
St Simon, very accessible from Cacouna, behind St. Simon,
nearly skirts the highway at St. Fabien. We soon reached
that picturesque and incomparable Bay of Bic, which made
the divine Emily Montague, according to Mrs. Brooke,
exclaim in 1767 " I wish I were Queen of Bic ! " Amidst
these Alpine heights, the Intercolonial Railway runs ; at
one spot, near Bic, the train glides along a mountain gorge
two hundred feet in the air. Formerly the highway frora St.
Siraon to Bic, lay on the beach, at the base of stupendous
cliffs, and was safe at low water only. Occasionally the
waves washed over it at a great height ; incautious travellers
have found there a watery grave.

— 148 —
BIC.
Instead of a large village here, at the beginning of this
century, there was scarcely one house to every nine miles of
road. Tradition still points out the spot where a dreaded-
way side inn existed, kept by a repulsive old crone of the
name of Petit. During winter storms, belated travellers
seeking the shelter of Madame Petit's roof, in some instances-
were never heard of again. Dark and fearful were the tales
circulated about Madame Petit
Bic is caUed, in Jean Alphonse's Routier, Cap de Marbrer
it went also by the name of Le Pic. Jacques Cartier, in
1535, named the harbor itself — Islot St. Jean, having entered
it on the anniversary of the day on which John the Baptist
was beheaded. Under French rule, the Baron d'Avaugour,
in 1663, and the famous engineer Vauban, thirty years later,
had planned an iraportant part to be played by Bic in the
general system of defences contemplated to consolidate
French power, in Canada. Quebec was then to receive
most extensive fortifications.' Bic was to be a harbor for
the French men-of-war to be retained in these waters. It
still cherishes fond hopes of becoraing a -winter harbor of
refuge ; though the ,S.5. Persia, Capt. Judkins, had a narrow
escape frora destruction and had to run for Halifax, leaving
her boats behind when the remainder of the troops were
disembarked at Bic in i86r, on landing EngUsh troop there
in December, on account of the Trent embroglio. Bic is
likely to play a part, in some of the wild and impracticable
schemes put forth to navigate the St Lawrence, during the
close season of winter. The seigniory of Bic was granted by
Count de Frontenac, 6th May, 1675, to Charles Denis de
Vitr6, an ancestor of Denis de Vilr^, who was made to
accompany the English fleet to Quebec, in 1759, as one of
Admiral Saunder's pilots.

— 149 —
Bic Island, Biquet, Cap Enragt, lie Brttlk, Capd, P Ori
gnal and especiaUy the cave of Islet au Massacre are fami
liar names to the coaster or mariner of the lower St. Law
rence, in quest of a haven during our autumnal storms.
Mr. J.-C. Tachd has rescued, in the Soirks Canadiennes, the
particulars of the great Indian Massacre, of which the cave
was the theatre, in the remote days of New France.
L'ISLET AU MASSACRE.
At the entrance of Bic harbor, there exists a small
island. For a couple of centuries back it has been known
as E Islet au Massacre, Massacre Island. A deed of blood
marks the spot. Tradition supplements several details,
unknown to history, of the horrible scene of yore enacted
at Bic. Two hundred Micraac Indians were camping
there for the night ; the canoes had been beached ; a
neighboring recess or cavern in the lofty rocks which
bound the coast offered an apparently secure asylum to the
warriors, their squaws and papooses. Wrapped in sleep,
the redskins quietly awaited the return of day to resume
their journey ; they slept, but not their lynx-eyed enemy, the
Iroquois ; from afar, he had scented his prey. During the
StiU hours of night, his silent steps had compassed the
slumbering foe. Laden with birch-bark fagots and other
combustible materials, the Iroquois noiselessly surround
the cavern ; the fagots are piled around it ; the torch
appUed. Kohe I Kohe I I Hark ! the fiendish weU-known war-
whoop ! The Micmacs, terror stricken, seize their arms ;
they prepare to sell dearly their lives, when the lambent
flames and the scorching heat leave them but one alterna
tive, that of rushing from their lurking place. One egress
alone remains ; wild despair steels their hearts ; men,
women and children crowd through the narrow passage
10

— 150 —
amidst the flames ; at the same instant a shower of poisoned
arrows decimates thera ; the human hyena is on his prey.
A few flourishes of the tomahawk frora the Iroquois and the
silence of death soon invades the narrow abode. Now for
the. trophies ; the scalping, it seems, took sorae time to be
done effectually. History mentions but^z'«, out ofthe two
hundred victims, who escaped with their lives. The blanched
bones of the Micraac braves strewed the cavern, and could
be seen until sorae years back. This dark deed, still vivid
by tradition in the rainds of the Ristigouche settlers, is
mentioned in detail in Jacques Carlier's narrative., (i)

I detach the following from a former Diary.
Bic, 28th February, 1883.
EROM MILLE VACHES TO BIC IN MID-WINTER.
" Chance made me to-day the witness of an occurrence
which may, perhaps, be worthy of note. Yesterday a frail
boat of only twelve feet keel, manned by two vigorous
young Canadians, arrived at Bic, after a successful passage
with oars alone from Mille Vaches on the north side. The
distance is at least twenty-one miles. It is well known how
choked the river is with ice in the month of February. I
questioned Mr. Napoleon Blanchet, one of those intrepid
adventurers, as to the dangers of such a voyage. He replied
as if the undertakini; was an ordinary occurence, and said
that in the foUowing week he intended to cross from
the south side, at Portneuf to the north side, where the
distance frora shore to shore is stiU greater. " Are you not
afraid, " I asked him, " of a snowstorm or a gale of wind,
arising during so long a passage, and that your vessel may
founder ? You have no sails, nothing but simple oars to
take yon across." He repUed : " We select fair weather and
leave the rest lo Providence."
(1) Jacjues Cartier, second voyage. CLi IX.

— 151 —
What a true type, I said to myself, of the hardy Cana-
¦dian of old 1 When D'lberviUe set out in April two
•centuries ago for Hudson's Bay, perhaps the forefather of
I'lapol^on Blanchet was one of his party. At any rate, he
ought to have been.
ST. GERMAIN DE RIMOUSKI.
Rimouski, one of the largest counties in the Dominion,
extends from Bic, inclusive, to Cape Chatteand slUl further
¦down, on the St Lawrence, a distance of 150 miles Seven
teen parishes : St. Siraon, St Mathieu, St. Fabien, St. CecUe
du Bic, Town of St Germain, Parish of St Germain, St.
Blandine, St Anaclet, St Donate, Ste. Luce, Ste. Flavie, Ste.
Angele de Merici, St. Octave de Metis, L'Assomption,
McNider, St Ulric, of which six or eight on the river banks,
and the remainder in the interior, together with seven
townships. Township of Matane, St. Jerome de Matane,
;Ste. Felicitd, Townships of Cherbourg, Dalibert, Romieu,
constitute this extensive county. '
The counties in the province of Quebec, generally com
prise frora thirteen to fifteen parishes ; it is pleasant to fol
low here the onward march of progress for the last fifty
. years. The abolishing by the Hon. L.-T. Drummond, in 1854,
of the feudal tenure, in land ; the public security given to
land titles by registry offices, founded in 1842, by Sir L.-
H. Lafontaine; the decentralisation of justice, by Sir George,
Etienne Cartier, in 1857, who substituted to the five old
judicial districts, Quebec, Three Rivers, Montreal, Gaspe
and St Francis, twenty-two new districts, providing each
with a court house, a resident judge, a sheriff, prothonolary
and local law officers ; but especially, the construction by
English capitalists : Messrs. Jackson, Morton, Peto, Bras
sey and Betts of the Grand Trunk railroad, supplemented

— 152 —
later on by its powerful auxiliary the Intercolonial railway^
built with Canadian money, which procured easy and cheap-
access, for the peasantry to our cities, and to the United
States : such have been among the chief factors under our
parliamentary leaders which have completed the general.
awakening of French Canada, inaugurated — it is true and
to be regretted — with civic strife, by Louis-Joseph Papi
neau, in 1837,
Later on, came the great constitutional compact and com
promise, entered in by our leading statesmen — the confe
deration of the several provinces into the Dominion of
Canada which gave British America, a status among nations?
and to each province, a new life.
It were hard now to recognize in the flourishing new town
of St. Germain, rejoicing in its district judge, bishop, cathe
dral, colleges, convents, &c. — accessible by raU in six hours
travel from Levis — the puny parish of Rimouski of yore,.
reached from Quebec, after a laborious week's journey, on
miry roads or through January snow drifts. Truly, ought the
year 1867, be marked in red letters, for the Rimouskites.
The seigniory of Rimouski and Saint Barnab^ was con
ceded on the 24th AprU, 1688, by the Marquis de Denon-
vUle, to sieur de la Cordonnifere. It now belongs to the heirs-
Drapeau, represented by the Hon. Mr. Justice Ulric Tessier,
who occupies the old seigniorial manor during the suraraer
months ; there are several co-seigneurs.
Rimouski, in verily, dates back to 1701 : it was erected
as a parish in 1835, and by act of Parliament, it was a year
later, incorporated as a town, under the name of St. Germain
de Rimouski. On the i6th May, 1867, it was created an
episcopal see and Bishop Jean Langevin (previously Princi
pal of the Normal School, at Quebec) its first bishop, took
possession of his diocese. It is the capital of the county of
ofthe same narae, with a population of 2,000 souls : its cathe
dral cost upwards of $50,000.

— 153 —
The Riraouski river, which rises in two considerable bran-
¦ches in rear of the seigniory and falls into the St. Lawrence,
is a good salmon stream. It is crossed at the west end ofthe
viUage by a beautiful iron bridge, resting on four piers and
two abutments.
The scenery along the river is attractive.
A wharf, three-quarters of a railelong, has been constructed
Jby Government, about half way between Rimouski, and
Faiher Point, so caUed after Rev, Father Henri Nouvel,
who wintered there in 1663 ; there, the English mails are
landed or taken on board the ocean steamers. A branch of
the Intercolonial runs down to the wharf, so that no lime is
lost in despatching the mails or passengers, after the arrival
of the steamer in the bay.
Facing Rimouski, Ues a low, deserted and wooded
island, about a mile from the shore, with a channel nearly
dry at low water ; it is a raost effectual barrier against the
swell of the gulf St. Barnaby still bears the name, under
which it was known, in 1629, to the Kirkes, when they
rendez-voused there, on their expedition against Quebec.
The island is three miles long. For years, it was the quiet
home of a mysterious old hermit, Toussaint Carrier, by
narae, as appears by a notarial deed, executed in 1728,
between hira and seigneur Lepage, of Rimouski. " Many
times," famUiarly writes, Mr. Elzear Gauvreau, in a Rimouski
journal, " La Voix du Golfe, my grand father Charles
Lepage, spoke to me about the hermit, whom he had per
sonally known, and who used to relate how he had been
shipwrecked on the island in 1723, and made a vow in
consequence. He was very religious, and would spend
hours in his oratory at prayers He used to shun the sight
of women.''
the hermit died aged about sixty years, on 30th January,
1767, as appears by the Rimouski church register, after

— 154 —
. spending forty-three years, on this solitary isle. He had not
always been a woraan hater, if the author of the " History
of Emily Montague, (i)" is to be credited. This curious old-
novel contains an interesting letter, addressed by Col. Rivers
to the heroine of Mrs. Brooke's romance, dated 13th Oct..
1766, explanatory of the cause of the seclusion, practised
by Toussaint Cartier.
Some of the adjoining parishes, Ste. Luce, Ste. Flavie,
Sandy Bay, Metis, Matane, nestle on sunny, deep bays, in
which a winding rivulet or rapid river discharges.
At St. Octave de Me'tis, Sir George Stephens, the C. P. R.
miUionnaire has his sumptuous lodge, close to the Metis
river, which he has acquired as a salmon fishing preserve.
At Little Metis a curious spectacle greets the eye. An
entire settlement of Scotchmen, iraported from the Land
O' Cakes, some sixty years ago, by the seignior of Metis,-
the late Mr. McNider, numbering about 100 families. They
have pushed their settlement as far back as the fifth range
or concession. I was surprised to find they could support
two churches of the Protestant faith, a Presbyterian and a
Methodist Church. The children looked well clad, healthy
and contented. I asked a wee lassie where she was bound
for. " To meet my mither ayount the hiUs " she readily
replied, with charming simplicity. The public road, for more
than forty miles, runs level like a bowling green, on the
edge of the broad St. Lawrence, so broad here, that the
opposite shore cannot be seen, whilst the railway strikes
across the lofty ridge towards the Metapedia valley. I have
seen the picturesque scenery of Metis under many aspects.
Long wUl I retain, however, the vivid irapression it made
on me, whilst traveUing through, before the era of the
(1 ) The History of Emily Montague — 4 volumes — London, 1 783.
This curious old novel, the first Canadian novel, was written at
Siliery, near Quebec by Mrs, Francis Brooke, whose husband was-
Chaplain to the imperial forces.

— 155 —
Intercolonial railway, on the 15th November, 1868. With
the first winter roads, the sky was bright, and frosty the
air ; amid the boom of the surf on the beach, the tinkle of
our sleigh bells was scarcely audible. Merrily, we bowled
along, in the solemn silence of a Sabbath afternoon, to
where duty called.
On our right stood the Metis kirk, lit up with the expiring
rays of the setting sun, whilst a bevy of rosy-cheeked,
youthful worshippers poured out of its portals, homeward
bound ; and far away in the blue east, a mere speck on the
bosom of the great river, a noble ship, the 6'. S. Nestorian,
also homeward bound, carrying back our late Governor
Lord Monck and his fortunes. One of those radiant sunsets
with which autumn occasionally consoles us for the loss of
summer, was pouring on the waters its gold and purple
light, whilst a pair of hardy fishers were tugging lustily, at
their oars to make the entrance of Metis Bay. What a scene
for a painter I ,
OUR SALMON AND SALMON-TROUT RIVERS.
" 0 ! give me a cot in the valley I love
And a trout fly on my summer hook,"
What vast progress has b6en made in the developraent
of our fisheries ? how many instructive and entertaining
books have been written on our salmon strearas,and on pisci
culture, since the time, long ago, when a learned physician.
Dr. Wra. Henry, Supirintendent of Military Hospitals, in
this Province, stationed at Quebec and Montreal, in 1828,
described in detail in 1839, the trout and salraon fisheries
of the rivers Jacques Carder and Murray, in the county of
Charlevoix. Indeed his work in two voluraes, " Trifles
from my Portfolio" stands in the eyes of the faithful disci
ples of Ausonius and of Coluraella, as a prized record of
our early fishing days.

— 156 —
The sketches gathered together in the learned doctor's
portfolio show not only the skilled angler, but also the
charming conversationalist, the writer, elegant and even
classical, the careful observer of nature, the great traveUer,
the social man and also the skUl ful practitioner of his
art ; one of the sketches exhibits him as one of the anato-
raists appointed by the EngUsh Government to take part in
the official autopsy ofthe body of Napoleon I, at St Helena.
The writings of Dr. Henrys, delightful volumes which
amateurs now dispute over, have carried the fame of the
Jacques Cartier as a fishing river to every quarter of the
globe. We should not be surprised to learn that the
renown of its rocky falls, of its rapids, the reputation of
the Remous St. Jean, of the Grands Rets, were, thanks to
hira, known to the savage tribes of Central Africa I
The names of Henry and of his genial successor at the
Jacques-Cartier, the late Charles Langevin, have been
associated for half a century with this raging stream and
with the neighborhjod ofthe bridge of Louis Ddry upon
this river. Mr. R. Nettle has even taken the trouble to
furnish a comparative table of the salmon scores of our
excellent fellow-citizen frora 1850 to 1856. Mr. Langevin
has given his narae to an artificial fly, it seems, of wonderful
efficacy in causing salraon to rise : the Langevin salmon fly ;
and ihe name of Henry is still borne by one of the
descendants of the former proprietors of the old Ddry
bridge. I made this discovery in the following way :
In August, 1883, with a youthful (i) Kinsman, I was des
cending in a bark canoe one of the treacherous rapids of
the great outlet of Lake St. John. Mr. Wm. Griffith,
the owner of the celebrated fishing station on this rapid,
had kindly granted a permit to ray companion, who, in

(1) The late Mr. Augustus Maxham, teller, in the Union Bank,
Quebec.

— 157 —
less than an hour, had filled the canoe with superb
Wa-na-nich, weighing on an average 4 lbs each. The
Wa-na-nich, caUed by the Engli-h, land-locked salmon, is
extremely lively at this season, and takes any fly. I had
the curiosity lo ask of the old canoeman who raanaged our
craft, his name and the place of his birth. " I am Henry
D^ry ; I was born at Dery's Bridge on the Jacques-Cartier,"
he said, pushing up his red tuque and turning his quid.
" Honor^ or Henri " said I, " which is your name ? " Nei
ther one, '. or the other, sir," he replied, " but Henry Dery.
My narae is that of a benefactor of my family. Dr. Henry,
whom you might have known in Quebec, perhaps, sixty
years ago. He used to come salmon-fishing every surnmer
to the Jacques Cartier River."
" I knew him not, I replied, but I know of whom you
" speak." There remains many other things lo be said with regard to
this facile writer, who, I believe, was the first to draw atten
tion to our salraon streams. I shall confine rayself for the
present to notice, as I go along, the interesting account found
¦in his book, of a fishing trip which he raade frora Montreal
to Mai Bay, in June, 1830, with a friend. Major Wingfield,
.ofthe Sixty-sixth Regiment. They seem both to have par
taken very heartily of the hospitality offered under the roof
of Mr. Chaperon, which if I remember right, lies a little to
the east of the Nairne Manor. Their guide was one Jean
' Gros ; Jean Gros having lost his paddle in a rapid at the
head of the fall in the Mai Bay stream, they were nigh taking
a cold bath in the river. A few emphatic oaths from the
Doctor attracted the attention of some neighboring people,
who threw planks and poles to the distressed mariners. The
canoe reached the bank before it was caught by the rapids.
The story of the sufferings, which the black flie, midge,
and mosquitoe inflicted upon them is very amusing ; but a
luminous ray soon came to brighten the overpowering gloom

— 158 —

This was the laking of five salmon, weighing 105 lbs., and 0^
forty-eight trout, which averaged 3lbs. each. Dr. Henry and
his companion sailed next, lo Duck River and Black River,.
twenty miles lower down.

¦H- -*

Except a few articles in the newspapers and magazines,,
we meet with no treatises on our salmon and trout rivers-
between 1839 and 1858, barring a useful work on piscicul,
ture and on the protection of our rivers, entiled Salmon
Fisheries of the St. Lawrence by a respected teacher of
Quebec, Mr. Richard Nettle, now an employee, at Ottawa,
in the Inland Revenue Departraent Mr. Nettle, con
vinced that his tastes and his special knowledge might
be utUized lo the profit of his adopted country, put forth a.
volume which did so rauch to call public attention to a
hitherto ignored source of revenue that the Government of
the day, at the special instance, we are told, of His Excel
lency, Sir Edmund Walker Head, created the post of Super
intendent of Fisheries, of which Mr. Nettle becarae the first
incumbent. Here, his labors, his love of angling, and his-
literary proclivities were of real service in the organization
which Parliament, later, adopted. Mr. Netde was one of
the first araong us to call attention to the success in pisci
culture attained in France by the pioneers in the discovery,
two poor fishermen of the Vosges, Gehin and Re'my, which
success Mr. Coste later on developed in so lucid a manner,
Mr. Nettle enumerated our salmon streams ; insisted
on the iraportance of protecting fish and game in the spawn
ing and breeding season; gave plans of fishways to be
erected in mill sluices ; furnishtd campararive tables ofthe
yield of the raost fruitful rivers of the Old Worid, protected
and unprotected ; dilated at length on fishculture, which
Mr. Seth Green has so weU carried on at his establishraent
at Muraford, in the Slate of New York. In short, the writ

— 159 -—
ings of Mr. Nettle were very acceptable to all friends of
progress. Some obstructionists, it is true — the men of the
nigogue (i) — in a word, the advocates of destruction of fish
at every season, even that of spawning and reproduction,
endeavored, but in vain, to trip him up. Nettle was destined
to triumph and did.
Later on, his name was enrolled by the side of that of
Fortin, Cauchon, Sicotte, Mitchell, the patrons and promoters-
of our actual fishery organization.
Aside frora the excellent annual Reports submitted lo the
Legislature by the Hon. P. Fortin, during seventeen years
commander of the Canadienne in the coast service, aside
from Judge Routhier's little work " En Canot, " apart from
some well-written pages in which the elegant pen of our
friend A. N. Montpetit is revealed, Canadian literature
contains no lengthy work in the French langu ige upon the
subject of our fisheries.^ It is to English writers of Canada
and the United Stales that we owe a series of instructive
and amusing works — some elaborately illustrated — upon
our salmon rivers ; we propose to pass rapidly in review the
most notable.
In i860, the celebrated EngUsh house, Longman, Green,,
Longman & Roberts, printed in London, edition de luxe,
the volume Salmon Fishing in Canada, by a resident
with illustrations, for Sir James-Edward Alexander, Colo
nel of the 14th Regiment This officer, known to the literary
world by his explorations in America, in Africa and else
where, a great lover of angling, had during his sojourn in
Canada made the acquaintance of the Rev. Dr. WilUam
Agar Adamson, D. C. L. Almoner or Chaplain of the
Legislative Assembly. Sir J. E. Alexander took charge of the
publication of the journal, or notes on his fishing, which

(1) The nigogue is the Indian name ofthe spear used to kill salmon
by torchlight.

— 160 —
had been prepared by Dr. Adamson. It is a work of nearly
400 pages, illustrated by numerous wood cuts, beautified by
vignettes representing sporting adventures sometimes bur
lesque. It comprises twenty four chapters, descriptive of
jolly fishing excursions after salmon and salmon trout, on
the eddies, in the rapids of the Saguenay and its tributaries,
on the Escoumains, in the Petite Romaine, on the Sault
au Mouton, at Portneuf and Bersiaraites, on the Sheldrake,
Godbout, Matane, Metis, Trinitd, Pentecoste, Marguerite
and Moisie rivers, without omitting a voyage to Labrador
with some ofthe whalers of Gaspe in search of whales ; the
whole seasoned with scraps of poetry, with little poems
improvised for the occasion, with anecdotes aglow with
keen repartee and Attic salt In this salmagundi of
salmqn, we find a litlle of everything, even of music. Two
annotated Canadian songs precede the appendix, Moore's
Boat Song of 1804, translated into French and set to music,
a,nd the touching complainte of the regretted Gerin Lajoie :

" Un Canadien errant
Loin de ses foyers. "
, The appendix contains documents, reports, and the
foUowing pieces, several of them of great importance :
I. The meraoir read by Dr. Adamson, before the Cana
dian Institute of Toronto, in 1858, and on which, later,
was founded in great measure our legislation for the protec
tion and artificial propagation of salmon, " On the Decrease,
R.estoration and Preservarion of Salmon in Canada."
II. " Observarions on the Habits of the Salmon Family."
By WiUiam Henry, Esq., M.D., Inspector General of
Hospitals. III. " Fishing in New Brunswick and Canada." By
Colonel Sir J. E. Alexander, F. R. G.S. and R. A. S., 14*
Regiment

— 161 
IV. Extract of the " Report of Commissioner of Crown
Lands, Canada, i860."
V. " Salmon and Sea Trout Fisheries of Lower Canada."
VI. " Report of Crown Lands Department, Fisheries,
1858." Hon. P.-M. Vankoughnet
Dr. Adamson's book, after a quarter of a century, con^-
tinues to delight amateurs, and sends us each season its
quota of anglers.
In the spring of 1863, I pubUshed, under the title '^ Les
Pickeries du Canada" a summary of cerlain studies, the
work of leisure hours during the long winter evenings. The
treatise was divided into two parts. In the first, I described
the results obtained in the Old World by the method of fish-
culture of Goldstein.already introduced in the Province since
1858, but of which Gehin and Reray, the fishermen of the
Vosges, became, without knowing it, the most illustrious
apostles in France, and which a learned member of the
Institute who was at the same time professor in the College
of France, Mr. Coste, had had accepted by the French and
several other governments since 1855, in a treatise f'l)
translated into almost all languages. This new method of
propagating, restoring and protecting the fish in lakes and
rivers, was followed by several sketches of trout lakes and
'salmon rivers, which I made known in detail to the amateur-
anglers of Canada and the United States, inviting them to
share our riches.
The second part presented an historical review of our
deep-sea fisheries, and suggested a number ofa mend-
ments and qhanges in the organization of our coast service,
and in the legislation affecting the Canadian fisheries. Such
as bounties, fishways for the salmon, compulsory inspection

(1) Instructions Pratiques sur la Pisciculture. Seconde edition.
Paris. Librairie de Victor Masson, 1856

— 162 —
-of the herring and fish oil, the fitting out of gunboats to
protect our coast against poachers when ever the provisions
ofthe treaiy of 1818 should be fallen back on.
I am happy to have seen several of my suggestions incor
porated in our statutes, and the cruisers, at the moment at
which I write, are the order of the day. My little work
procured for me the encouragement of the Prime Minister
of the drae, Hon. Mr. Sicotte, later known, from the legisla
tion which he procured to be enacted as " the Father of
Fisheries." The Hon. Mr, Cauchon, then in his palmy
days, dedicated to me an extremely eulogistic article in the
J'ournal de Quibec. But let us pass on.
In 1862, a raeraber of the New-York Bar, Robert-B.
Roosevelt, son of Judge Roosevelt and author, among
other works, of " Game Birds ofthe North, " published at
New York, under the nom de plume of " Barnwell, " a
useful treatise of 324 pages, under the title " Game Fish of
the North. " Mr. Roosevelt, while describing in detail his
favorite amusement, has made deep researches as lo the
different species of sea and river fish which he considers
game fish. He discusses their specific characteristics, their
habits, classification, the time of spawning and the methods
of taking thera, the material for, and the manner of pre
paring, the artificial fly ; the whole accorapanied by agreeable
reminiscences of his fishing in the New England Stales, in
New Brunswick and in the Province of Quebec. His book
is a useful and charming vade mecum for the anglers for
trout and salraon. Mr. Roosevelt is a civilized man on his
vacation, sighing for the solitude of the woods, of our lakes
and of our salmon reaches. Happy Mr. Roosvelt !
In 1873, Harper Brothers, of New York, printed in an
iUustrated octavo volume, the numerous articles upon the
trout and salmon lakes which the author, Charles Hallock,
had scattered through the magazines and periodicals of the
United Stales. This ardent sportsman, for a nuraber of

— 163 —
¦years editor-in-chief of the weekly journal Forest And
Stream, a paper of wide circulation in the United States
and Canada, had cast his fly over raost of the northern
livers of the continent; no one, therefore, seems better
authorized than he to treat of angling ex cathedra.
By his " Fishing Tourist," Mr. Hallock has done an inex
pressible service to the disciples of Izaak Walton. His
•Guide Book embraces : i. Long Island. 2. The Adiron-
dacks. 3. The Alleghanies. 4. New England. 5. The
."Schoodics. 6. Nova Scotia. 7. Cape Breton, 8. New
Brunswick. 9. Baie des Chaleurs. 10. The Lower St
¦Lawrence, it. The Saguenay. 12. Labrador and New
foundland. 13. Anticosd. 14, The Ottawa District 15.
The Superior Region. 16. The Michigan Peninsula. 17.
The " Big Woods." 18. The Pacific Slope. 19. Bloom
ing Grove Park. 20. " Natural and Artificial Propagation,"
wilhout taking into account a valuable study of the natural
and artifical propagation of fish in the United Stales and
among us. The progrararae is extensive, is it not ? and
Canada coraes in for a large share of it.
Salraon ; trout, red, white, gray ; pike, barr, pickerel,
•whitefish, black bass, maskinonge, everything which brea
thes, moves, frisks in the liquid element, finds its place in
his admirable list
Charles Hallock, the indefatigable Secretary of the Ang
ling Club — the Blooming [Grove] Park Association — will
tell you in what month, at what date, at what hour of the
•day, be the weather clear or cloudy, the fish ought to bite ;
what lure, what fly will tempt it ; staring beforehand and
with precision the fly to be used ; the kind of canoe ; the
guide whom you should choose ; without omitting the outfit
for the trip ; the usefulness of canned provisions : lobster,
sardines, ham, chicken ; specifics against the bites of the
mosquitoe ; even to the necessary stimulants, tea, coffee ;
prohibiting strictly the use of spirits in camp, and extolling

— 164 —
as a beverage the fresh water of the neighboring spring
for he who desires to retain a stout arm, a strong leg,
quick wits for a successful struggle with Salmo salar, the
valiant Icing of our rivers, rushing fresh from the depths of
old ocean.
To Hallock, one might imagine, was revealed his vocation
as an angler, a little while after he had escaped from the
arms of his nurse. This is how he paints the sunshine of
his youth, the happy tirae when all within us sings :
" It is now twenty-six years since I cast my first fly among
the green hills of Hampshire county, Massachusetts. I was
a stripling then, tall and active, with my young blood bound
ing through every vein, and reveUing in the fuU promise of
a hardy manhood. My whole time was passed out of doors.
I scorned a bed in the summer months. My home was a
tree-embowered shanty apart from the farm house, and
crowning a knoll around whose base wound and tumbled a
raost delectable trout brook. Here was the primary school
where I learned the first rudiments of a sportsman's educa
tion. In time I came to know every woodchuck hole in
the township, and almost every red squirrel and chipmunk
by sight ; every log where an old cock partridge drummed ;
every crow's nest, and every hollow tree where a coon hid
away. I heard Bob White whistle to his mate in June, and
knew where to find his family when the young brood hatched
out. I had pets of all kinds ; tame squirrels and crows,
hawks, owls and coons. AU the live stock on the farm were
my friends. I rode the cows from pasture, drove a cosset
four-in-hand, jumped the donkey off the bridge to the detri
ment of both our necks, and even trained a heifer so that I
could fire my shotgun at rest between her budding horns.
I learned where lo gather all the berries, roots, barks and
' yarbs ' that grew in the woods ; and so unconsciously
becarae a naturalist and an earnest student of botany. As
to fishing, it was my passion. There were great lakes that
reposed in the solitude of the woods, at whose outlets the
hum and buzz of busy saw-mills were heard, and whose
waters were filled with pickerel ; and, most glorious of all,
there were mountain streams, foaming, purling, eddying
and rippUng with a life and a dash and a joyousness that

— 165 —
made our lives merry, and filled our hearts to overflowing
with pleasure."
We need not be surprised if for this enfant terrible, a
suitable field was required for his devouring energy, nor
that he found it in the stirring scenes of angUng, as Lace-
pede has it :
" Fishing with the line brings back to the chUd his
sports ; to ripe age its leisure hours ; to old age its pleasures j
to the sensitive heart the brook close to the paternal roof j
to the traveUer, the busy repose of the people whose sweet
quiet he has envied ; to the philosopher, the origin of the
art." Frederick Tolfrey, of England, that dashing young Royal
Engineer officer, whose rod and line wipped so many of
our lakes and who enriched our sporting annals by his
Sportsman in Canada, published, in 2 vols, in London, in
1845. The Pleasures of Angling, by George Dawson. Sheldon
& Co., New York, 1876.
This is a charming volume, artistically illustrated, which
the historiographer of a famous fishing party on the Casca-
pedia, George Dawson, of Albany, gave to the public
ten years ago. Mr. Dawson describes the rudiments of the
art, fishing with a worm, &c., which is, in his eyes, the
prosaic part of his subject ; then he serves us up a dish in
his own style — Ambrosia — the poetic side of this incom
parable amusement.
Angling has more than one smiling aspect Let us not
forget it.
Here is one of the delicious chroraos of angling as he
understands it :
" It would be a great mistake, he says, to beUeve that
fishing consists only in catching fish. The taking of the
inhabitants of the streams and the rivers is indeed the
11

— 166 —
basis of the art ; but the soul, the spirit of the recreation,
is found elsewhere. —
" They are greatly in error who suppose that all there is of
fishing is to fish, that is but the body ofthe art Ils soul and
spirit is in what the angler sees and feels ; in the raurmur bf
the brook ; in the music of the birds ; in the simple beauty
of the wild flowers which peer al hira frora every nook in
the valley, and from every sunny spot on thehUlside ; in the
moss-covered rock ; in the ever-shifting sunshine and shadow,
which give ever-varying beauty to the sides and summits of
the raountains ; in the bracing atraosphere which environs
hira ; in the odor of the pine and hemlock and spruce and
cedar forests, which is sweeter to the senses of the true
woodsman than all the artificially compounded odors which
impregnate the boudoirs of artificial life ; in the spray ofthe
waterfall ; in the grace and curve and dash of the swift-rushing
torrent ; in the whirl ofthe foaming eddy ; in the transparent
depths of the shady pool where, in midsuramer, the speck
led trout and silver salmon " most do congregate ; " in the
revived appetite ; in the repose which comes to him while
reclining upon his sweet-smeUing couch of heralock boughs ;
in the hush of the woods where moon and stars shine in
upon hira thro ugh his open tent or bark-covered shanty ;in the
morning-song of the robin ; in the rapid-coursing blood, ;
quickened by the pure, unstinted raountain air which impart
to the lungs the freshness and vigor of its own vitaUty ; in the
crackling of the newly kindled camp-fire ; in the restored
health, and in the one thousand olher indescribable and
delightful realities and recollections of the angler's camp life
on lake or river during the season when it is right to go
a-fishing. It is these, and not alone or chiefly the mere art
of catching fish, which render the gentle art a source of
ever growing pleasure. "
For a lover of nature, for a skilled angler like Mr. Dawson,
existence in the valley of the Grand Cascapedia raust have
been passing sweet, very full, surrounded as he was during
this first and memorable excursion by cnoice spirits and
sympathetic fellow travellers. The raorning caU brought
together in the sarae camp the eminent President of our
Supreme Court, Chief Justice Ritchie ; the learned Chief

— 167 —
Justice of the Superior Court of Massachusetts, Judge Gray,
the friend of Francis Parkman, a profound jurist, of magni
ficent presence, endowed with social qualities which made
him the idol of a numerous circle of friends, as Mr. Dawson
likes to repeat ; of Col. D. Aichie PeU, of Staten Island,
the bard of the trip ; of Mr. R.-G. Dunn, of New York, and
finally of General Arthur, who later, was called to fiU the
functions of President of the United States.
These men of science, study and business had their ren-
dez-vous on the sweetly flowing banks of the Cascapedia,
whose fishing privileges they had leased that year. This is
only a small portion of the distinguished raen, who have
passed their vacations in this anglers paradise.
The pen and pencil of Chs. Lanman, has immortalised
more than one Canadian Salmon pool and trout stream.
Sport with Gun and Rod in American Woods and Waters,
edited by Prof Alfred-M. Mayer, New York, The Century
-Co., 1883.
The American Salmon Fisherman, Hy.-P. Wells, 1886.
Geo.-M. Fairchilds, jr., New York, has also contributed
sorae excellent sporting sketches, in Forest and Stream,
Outing, Src, these old favorites of the sporting craft.

¦*

The journey from Quebec to the salmons streams in the
Bay of Chaleurs is made with a speed and an amount of
comfort which leaves nothing to be desired. One travels
from Levis to Dalhousie by thePuUman cars ofthe Inter
colonial R. R. ; from Dalhousie to Paspebiac, New Rich
mond, Gasp6, &c., in the steamer Admiral, commanded
by the exceUent Captain Dugal, a thorough seaman.
If salraon and trout angUng in Canada gives unutterable

— 168 —
delight to amateurs, it has also its utilitarian aspect for the
economist. Our salmon rivers must number more than sixty ;:
Canadian lakes and trout streams— especially since the
opening of the new railway leading to Lake St. John —
are counted by hundreds. Our rich neighbors of the United
States have nothing like it. A kindly Providence seems to-
have almost given us a monopoly of this wealth. It is for
us to use it to the best advantage. Let us protect and
make known far and wide our salmon rivers, rich sources
indeed of revenue for the public domain.
In 1863 we pointed out lo amateur anglers in the little
treatise, " Les Pkheries du Canada," our salmon streams as-
foUows : North shore of Lower St. Lawrence
Esquimau. — A stream which formerly furnished 5 2,00a
salmon annuaUy.
Corkewetpeeche. — Near the preceding, good number of
salmon. St Augustine. — EquaUy full of fish.
Sheeps Bay. — Good salmon station.
Little Meccatina. — Fine salmon river.
Netagami. — Deep stream with faUs ; trout in abundance ;
salmon go up as far as the falls.
Napetiteepe. — Empties into a large bay ; salmon abound
there. Etamami. — Celebrated for its salmon.
Coacoacho. — Empties into a fine basin ; good for salmon.
La Romaine. — Large river, but not deep ; filled with
silver trout of an exquisite flavor.
Musquarro. — Rapid stream, steep ; good for fly or nets.
Kegashka. — Salmon abound in the bay ; the rapid^ pre
vent their ascent.

— 169 —
Grand Natashquam. — Famous stream, filled with the
finest kind of salmon.
Agwanish. — North-east boundary of the Seigniory of Min-
gan ; large stream, full ot fish.
Pashashieboo. — Of moderate size, and contains some fish,
Mingan. — Good for nets and fly ; the basin always con
tains large salmon.
Le Manitou. — Branch of the river Mingan, equally well
known and full of fish.
St John. — Large river, excellent for salmon,
Le Ruisseau k la Pie. — Small rapid stream well stocked
salmon. Sawbill. — Large stream. Nets are set there.
Le Manitou. — A perpendicular fall obstructs its entrance.
Trout and salmon collect at its mouth.
Moisie. — Renowned for its large salmon. Good for fish
ing with nets or fly.
Lower Ste. Marguerite. — Swarming with salraon and trout
Pentecoste. — Deep, rapid brook. Its mouth is full of set
nets. Bay of Trinity. — A favorite station for those who fish
-with fly or net.
Godbout — A stream whose fame has extended far and
wide. The net fisheries in this stream are very profitable.
English River. — Empties into a deep bay. Salmon and
.trout abound there.
Bersiaraites. — A large river with many branches. The
-scenery is fine. FUled with large trout. They rise to the fly
only on the branches.
Nipimewecawnan. — A tributary of the Bersiaraites. A
fairy-like brook with cascades. An earthly paradise for those
who fish with the fly.

— 170 —
La Jeremie.— Small trout are caught here ; fur trading:
post. Les Colombiers, as far as Plover and White Rivers, —
are good for salmon.
Laval. — Very picturesque water course, interrupted hy
little rapids and narrow and deep basins.
Portneuf. — Nice fly-fishing for trout as far as the first
fall ; the salmon go higher ; nets are set as far up as the
tide is felt
Le Sault au Cochon. — The falls are so high that they
prevent the ascent of the salmon. Filled with trout.
Le Grand Escoumain. — Celebrated in the past for its-
salraon. The milldam has a fishway. The bay is filled
with salmon, which are taken with nets.
Les Grandes Bergeronnes. — Pretty good for salmon and
trout. The two rivers are but a few miles from Saguenay
and Tadousac. RIVERS WHICH EMPTY INTO THE SAGUENAY.
Ste. Marguerite (Upper). — Principal branch of the Sague
nay. Trout and salmon in abundance. They are taken
with fly and net.
Little Saguenay. — Quite a considerable river. Fishing.
with line and net.
St. John (Upper). — The same as last
RIVERS WHICH EMPTY INTO THE ST. LAWRENCE.
Black or Salmon River. — Formerly full of fish.
Murray. ^Waters a superb valley. Salmon ate taken.
Du Gouffre. — Much deteriorated.
Ste. Anne.— A pretty stream. Recently the salmon fishing
has been below the fall.

- 171 —
Montmorenci. — Has a cataract at its mouth. Toward its
source in the basin below the fall, it affords fair trout
fishing. Jacques Cartier. — Celebrated small salmon river.
SOUTH SIDE.
Rivibre du Sud. — Montmagny. Promised to become
re-stocked with salmon. (A fallacious hope.)
Rivifere-Ouelle. — Abundance of salmon. The dam is
broken down (1863).
Grand Metis. — A large river with a dam.
Matane. — Beautiful salmon stream.
Ste. Anne. — Formerly abounded in fish.
Mont Louis. — Important stream. Better thought of
recently for its sea trout than for its salmon.
Madeleine. — Clear ; good for salmon.
Dartmouth. — A large river which empties into the Basin
of Gaspd. Salraon there, in abundance.
York. — The same as above.
St John (of the South).— Same.
Grand River. — Slocked with salmon. Turns a miU.
Grand Pabos. — Salmon stream.
RIVERS THAT EMPTY INTO THE BAIE DES CHALEURS.
Grande Bonaventure. — A great river with several impor
tant tributaries. Salraon abound there.
Cascapedia.— The Great and Litde Cascapedia supply a
quantity of salmon, — a choice fishing station.
New River. - The bay is good for salmon fishing.

— 172 —
Ristigouche. — A noble stream, with magnificent tributa
ries, situated at the head of the Baie des Chaleurs. Fre
quented by thousands of salmon.
Matapedia. — Branch of the Ristigouche. The salmon go
up it nearly forty miles.
Mistouche. — Branch of the Ristigouche. Salmon river.
Tide is felt in nearly all of these rivers. Those on the
north side of the stream (Ristigouche) flow through grand
and picturesque rocks. Nearly all are fed by lakes.

The foUowing extracts from the New- York Herald, for
May last, sums up tolerably weU, salmon fishing in the Pro
vince of Quebec.
" As salmon is the king of fish, so salmon fishing is the
king of sports. The sport bears the stamp of royal approval,
for did not the Prince of Wales visit the Metapedia when
in America in i860, and do not the Indian guides point
out to-day with patriotic pride the Prince's pool ? "
LORD DUFFERIN'S COTTAGE.
Lord Dufferin, when he arrived in Canada, as soon as his
official inauguration was over, repaired to the same spot, and
buUt himself a cottage on Tadoussac Bay, now the property
of Sir Roderick Cameron, of New- York. The Marquis of
Lome and the Princess Louise, during their stay in Canada,
also made it an invariable rule to spend several weeks in
this paradise of Nature, andjn spite of other engagements
always made it a point to fish the vice-regal river, the Grand
Cascapedia, for which each Governor-General pays an
annual rent to the Province of Quebec of $500. The

— 173 —
Marquis of Lansdowne and his successor, the present Vice
roy, Lord Stanley, have followed the exaraple set them, (i)
It is not, however, the royal and noble patronage of the
salmon fisheries that have given them their farae. Rather

(1) I am enabled, thanks to the Hon. H,-J. Anson, A. D. C, to
furnish an analysis of the score of fish caught by His Excellency,
Lord Lansdowne's patty, at the Cascapedia River, during the summer
of 1887. GRAND OASOAPEDIA RIVEB
" Fish caught by His Excellency the Marquis of Lansdowne's
party, from the 25th June, 1887 :
320 salmon weighing 7,2774 lbs. Averaging 22J lbs. 55 salmoa
¦over 30 lbs. Largest 41 lbs. Smallest 4 lbs.
Through the kindness of His Excellency Lord Stanley of Preston,
I am also in a position to furnish an extract from the list of the
salmon caught by his party, iu the Great Cascapedia, during the
season of 1888.
" The Great Cascapedia Eiver was fished in July, 1888, by His
Excellency, Lord Stanley of Preston, aud party :
Capt. Joceline Bagot
A.-H. McMahon, A. D. C, Grenadiers Guard
The Hon, Victor Stanley, R, N,, and also by
Her Excellency  1 Days fishing  1 fish
Mrs. Bagot  4 "  6"
Miss Lyster  1 "  1 "
MissBarrett  1 '•  1"
Mr. Campbell  5 "  6 «
His Excellency, 35 fish — 1 3 days fishing— 24.7 lbs
Capt. Bagot, 89 fish and 1 grilse — largest fish, 43 lbs — 21 days
A.-H. McMahon, 35 fish  " 39 " 15 "
Hon. Victor Stanley, 63 fish  " 39^" 17 "
Also
Sir John Rose, July 11th to 28th, 20 fish
Colonel Lane, « Uth to 18th, 13 "
. E. Jenkins, Esq " Uth to 28th, 30 "
Total number of fish, 300.— Total weight, 7,692 lbs.— Average,
25.5 lbs Best Pools — Almond's  34
Big Camp  31
Limestone  28
Ledge  27
Parson's  24
Lazy Began  1 7
Rook  17
Captain's  16
Tent  14
Big Pico  14 — 29 Pools in aU.

— 174 —
has it been the annual influx of American visitors which has-
caused the opening of the season to be eagerly avvaited in
New-York and Boston, Chicago and St. Louis. To these
anxious watchers the news that the season is unusually weU
advanced this year, that the fish are numerous and in first
class condition, and that the prospects were never better
than now will be welcome.
NOTABLE SALMON FISHERS
" Billy Florence, the actor, is one of the most notable of
these visitors. President Arthur, in his lifetime, was another,,
and the membership rolls of the fishing clubs down below,
contain the names of men who are best known as busy
workers in busy Gotham.
" The only way of reaching the talmon country is by the
Intercolonial Railway, and from Riraouski, to its entrance to
New-Brunwick, the line is dotted with stations, which seem
to be especially built for the reception of the fishermen. At
Rimouski the sportsmen begin to leave the train, and those
who have not been fortunate enough to secure one of the
largest rivers, step off to try their luck in the numberless
smaller ones. Twenty-five miles travel in a canoe up the
Rimouski River brings one, after a more or less heavy por
tage, to Lake Quatawamkedgick, and thence-forward the
fisherraan is happy.
" The Mic-Mac Club have their station on the Rimouski,
and although not so-lucky as some of the other parties, they
have a reputation for big catches. Its membership is com
posed wholly of Westerners, J,-L. Hugh, of Chicago, and E.-
T. AUen and C.-B. Burnham, of St. Louis, being its chief
spirits. " Further on down the railway is Litde Metis, a village of
some importance as a signal station for the vessels navigat
ing the St. Lawrence, and here, loo, with little trouble, the

— 175 —
salmon angler can obtain his heart's desire. The best spot
of aU, however, is Metapedia — Ceder Hall is the railway
station — and here is the lake of the Metapedia Salmon
Club, one of the richest organizations in the whole district.
Its membership includes such names as Dr. T, Warden, J.-
H. de Mott, J.-L. Cadwallader and John-G. Heckscher, of
New York, Metapedia, in Algonquin, means musical
waters, and here, in the midst of one of the most romantic
regions of Canada, do staid brokers and business men come
to recuperate. WHERE THE BEST FISHING IS FOUND.
" The Metapedia has over two hundred rapids, now swift
and deep, now gently rippling over golden gravel and silver
sapds. Here and there are deep pools in which are salmon
of astonishing size. For early fishing the Metapedia has
^special farae, and il was at the junction of the Causapscal
that Princess Louise landed a forty pounder in 1879.
Sir George Stephen, the ex-president of the Canadian
Pacific Railroad, controls three of the best rivers, and
again this season will have General Sir John McNeil, V.
C, and General Sir Donald Stewart, of the British army, as
his guests.
The Ristigouche Salmon Club, whose grounds are at
the junction of the Metapedia with the Ristigouche, go in
for style. NEW YORKERS WHO KILL SALMON.
" They have the finest club house in Lower Canada, and
one befitting their merabers, who include W.-H. DeForest,
A.-D. Weeks, G.-E. Pollock. J.-L. GaldwaUader, H.-H.
Robbins. Robert Goslet, Isaac Cadin, jr., Sarauel Thorn
and James-M. Waterbury, of New York. This is the club
of which Chester A. Arthur was for many years president

— 176 —
Catches of salmon weighing twenty to thirty pounds are
common, and il is only when they bring the scales over the
latter figure that they are considered worthy of mention.
The Ste. Marguerite Salmon Fishing Club lease the west
branch ofthe Ste. Marguerite river, at a yeariy rental of
$310. Their return to the government of last year's opera
tions shows that they caught 46 salmon, weighing 310
pounds, the largest being 28 and the smallest 10 pounds.
Among the members are James Grant, N.-C. Berney, W.-
B. Williams, Henry-S. Williams, W.-B. Wheeler and Obed
Wheele of New York ; Gard-T. Lyon, of Oswego, and Dr.
Ashton, ofDobbs Ferry, (W. Russell, of Quebec.)
Other rivers are leased by individuals, such as the Escu-
rainac and the Nouvelle by John Maitland, of New- York ;
the Bonaventure by WiU.-H. Thome ; the Grand river by
Colonel Walker, British Royal Artillery ; the Dartmouth by
Will.-H. Lane, of Boston, who has the distinction of paying
the heaviest rent of all — $520 — for a catch of 24 salmon,
weighing 496 pounds ; the York by Charles-B. Barnes, of
Albany ; the Laval by Sir R.-W. Cameron, and the Matane
by Sir Alexander-T. Gait
THE BIGGEST CATCH OF THE YEAR.
" The St. Anne des Monts River,Ieased by Henry,Hogan,
of Montreal, gave the biggest salmon caught last year — a
beauty weighing 49 pounds. It was hooked by a New York
gentleman, one of Mr. Hogan's party.
The Ristigouche River, on the New Brunswick side of
the border, is a prime favorite with visitors.
Here " Camp Beatrice, " owned by W.-J. Florence ;
" Camp Albany, " belonging to J.-M. Lansing, Dudley
Alcotl and Dean Sage, of Albany ; " Carap Harmony, " on
the Upsolquitch, started by Charles-F. Laurence, of New
York, who had a lease of Brand Brook last year, wiU have

— 177 —
to miss his salmon this year, as he is on a lour around the
world. Dr. Baxter, of Washington, has bought a famous spot
on the Metapedia, caUed " Dan Eraser's, " and has
announced his intention of coming along early in June ;
and R.-G. Dun, of New York, is also expected at an early
date. WHERE THE BOLD FELLOWS GO.
" The more adventurous of the fishermen do not confine
themselves to the south side of the St. Lawrence, however.
Mr. E. -Pendleton Rogers, of Hyde Park, Duchess County,
N. Y., has a lease of the Little Saguenay River, at a rental
of $345, and will be on hand as usual. He will deviate
from the usual track and reach his destination by stearaer
from Quebec.
Others more adventurous stiU choose the wild coasts of
Labrador for their fishing, and already several parties of
EngUshmen have announced their intention of crossing the
" herring pond " to try their luck in the running waters of
that bleak ccast. Mr. Collingwood, a wealthy land owner of
Tiverton, Devonshire, is the pioneer in these excursions, and
is expected this week with a party of friends. He will fish
the Natashquan River. It was in order to reach this stream
that, some twelve years ago, the Duke of Beaufort, the pre
sent Duke of Sutherland, W.-J. Florence, the actor, and
poor dead Ned Sothern paid the captain of an Allan steamer
;£2oo sterling to go out of his way a few miles and drop
them in a smaU boat, whence they got to their destination.
DANGEROUS SPORT.
" This Natashquan River — Natashquan means " where
the seals laid " — is one ofthe best salmon rivers in the world
but has a dreadful reputation. There it was where, some
years ago, Walter Macfarlane, one of Montreal's merchant

— 178 —
princes, lost his life, and numerous other disasters are
attached to its name.
The most remarkable of these is the death of a young
English guardsman, named Astley, who had been up there
with a party of friends and had had remarkable luck.
Before starting out, they had been given a chart of the river
with the dangerous places marked. Chief among these was
the Devil's Whirlpool. They were warned not to go near
it, as contact with it raeant certain death. However, just
as their fishing had ended, and they were on their way back
to the seacoast, they began to break up their remaining stores,
and offered them as prizes to the Indian guides, who battled
for them by races in their canoes. Just as they reached
the head of the whirlpool, young Astley, who was of noble
birth, related to an English ducal family, offered to raake a
wager that he could successfully run this whirlpool. Turning
to his Indians he asked one of them lo accompany hira, but
without avail. The chief of the tribe had forbidden them.
to do so and besides the certainty of death was too terrifying.
Finally one of the young bucks spoke up, and saying he had
no wife or mother to mourn his loss if he died, he volun
teered to accompany Astley.
WENT TO HIS DEATH.
" Farewells were said and the two started, notwithstanding
the protests of Astley's friends, who watched their every
raove with feverish anxiety. The litde bark canoe sped on
into the whirlpool and there were hopes it would pass
through. But just as it reached the centre it whirled round
and was engulfed. The Indian saw what was coraing and
juraped, but was barely in the air when a shot frora the rifle
of one of Astley's friends on shore made him share the fate
of the EngUshman. Their bodies were recovered about two
miles down the river, disfigured beyond recognition. The

— 179 —
man who fired the shot was never known, but the action
angered the remaining Indians, and they left the strangers
to find their way to the coast as best they could. What the
motive of the murderer was, in killing the Indian will pro-
toably never be know." — New York Herald.

GASPE.

Gasp'e Basin — Morpheus' Domain — Bobbing for mac
kerel — Lt. Governor Cox. 25th August, 1887.
Here am I again, after an entire revolution ofthe circling
year, pacing the promenade deck of the staunch steamer
" Admiral," in Gaspd Bay. Our ever watchful commander,
Capt Dugal, is giving directions lo the wheelsman not to
hug too close that treacherous sandy spit on which Com
mander Orlebar, R. N., ran aground in August, i860, his
big ship " Hero," bearing Albert of Wales and his fortunes,
much to the surprise of the old salts. Our alert and cour
teous purser, Mr. Bogue, by way of fitting himself soon to
take the command of a steamer, is amusing himself usefully
in casting the lead from the bow of the boat, to acquire a
personal knowledge of every foot of ground in this ticklish
part of the bay. Now we have shot past the light schooner
anchored on the edge of the bank ; soon we shall be in the
iJarrows, abreast of the R. C. church and flag staff. A few
minutes more our spring hawser is fast on Veil's wharf. The
clank of the engine and wheels has ceased on the captain
pulling his bell. The local aristocracy, tourists and a sprinkl
ing of fishermen crowd round the outstretched gangway, to
welcome expected friends. Various are the enquiries
exchanged. " Has mackerel struck in the bay ? " " Any Par-

— 180 —
liamentary elections this fall ? " " Any more Yankee pirates
caught ? " " Any room at the hotel ? " O'er the lofty fir-
groves, casting on the water their dark shadow, the Queen
of Night is shedding her mild radiance. It is half-past eight
p. m. " Twenty and a half " suggests an Intercolonial Rail
way superintendent ? But what does that signify ? Sanford
Fleming and his enlightened, new-fangled scheme be did-
. died ! The Gaspesians would never know when it is time
for them to rise in the morning by his " thirteen and four
teen hour system." The last cormorant, poised on his black
wings, has gone to rest. The American consul has hauled
down the " stars and stripes " at sunset.
An impressive silence reigns on the deep, placid, lapsing
waters, broken only by the faint tinkle of a cow bell, the
bearer of which is browsing over the dewy meadows com
manded by Fort Ramsay ready, as of yore, to belch forth
a salute should Albert of Wales, or any of his royal brothers
again drop anchor in Gaspd's historic bay ; its cannon,
like diminutive beasts of prey crouching in the dim twilight^
dot the apex of the hill, which overshadows the busy ware
houses, and roomy dwellings ofthe prosperous, a nd numerous
LeBouthillier clan.
The new arrivals escorted by friends are slowly wending
their way up the tolerably steep ascent to Baker's Hotel, or
to Mrs. Dumaresq's snug quarters further on. The basin is
studded with a few coasting crafts ; a trim Yankee man-of-
war is anchored close to Commander Wakeham's saucy-
steam cruiser ; a boatswain's shrill whistle floats over the
waters, from the " Hail Columbia " armed craft, whUe a
Cadiz brigantine is moored at the wharf to exchange her
cargo of salt, for " merchantable codfish " ; her wet saUs
. are not yet furied, a passing shower having ruffled the bay
that afternoon. Let us have our cheroot and Scotch night
cap and then off, to sweet oblivion and the " balmy restorer '*

— 181 —
in our state room, for Gaspe Basin is the kingdom par
excellence of the drowsy god. *
At dawn, I was startled by a voice, shouting from a yawl
which came alongside, " Mackerel ! Fresh, quite fresh from
the bay 1 " whUst a flood of purple light streamed through the
open window. It was the peerless orb of day, invading my
bunk. Dressing hurriedly, I rushed on deck to witness one
of the grandest sights Gaspe Bay has in store ; a sunrise on
the waters, on a bright suraraer morning. It was truly
superb. To the south-east, the long yellowish spit of Sandy
Beach, stretching more than three miles down the bay ; on
the opposite side, the shore trending far away, with a back.
ground of pine and fir clad hills, dim by distance, with
here and there a fisherman's hut and boats on the strand,,
or a farm house, in the centre of a green meadow, or of a
waving grain field, awaiting a few more warm touches of
Old Sol, to don ils golden mantle. Far away I could dis
cern the diminutive black hull of the light-ship, intended to
guide the mariner round the edge of the bank. I walked on
shore, ascended the heights and took in, to the best of my
ability, every feature of the fair landscape, and then looked
round, for busy husbandmen at work, in the early morn,
but Morpheus, I found, was the king of this happy land ;
there were none to be seen.
What a deUghtful haven of rest, I thought, Gasp'^, must
be for an overworked, sleepless, heat and malaria tormented
New Yorker ! Exertion, commercial activity, seem here out
of place, an anomaly, a delusion, a snare.
I recollect once meeting one of those distressed New
Yorkers. He was just returning from bobbing for mackered,
in a boat, where he had spent the afternoon, with an ample
umbrella to intercept the rays of the meridian sun, beating
12

— 182 —
on his devoted head ; he had caught two mackerel and was
happy. " What a glorious spot," said he to me, " to recuperate
exhausted nature ! No noise, no telegrams, no bank trou
bles, no corporation frauds, no boodlers ! no presidential
elections ! ! sleep, bracing sea air, incomparable lands
capes. " The natives, I admire hugely ; there indeed you have
character, though sorae may construe it of a negative kind.
They rise when it suits ; they do not go about nervously,
like us. No feverish haste with them, no rush to catch the
train. They look lo the sea more than to the land for their
daily subsistance. I have made a special study of them.
The elder folks seera as if they could sit and sraoke all day ;
they gossip pleasantly at times about their neighbor's affairs
at noon, take a walk, or crack mild jokes when the sun is
down ; above aU, they retire early, sleep sound and long.
Happy fellows.
Even their dumb animals, I fancy, but perhaps it is only
ra fancy — catch the pervading influence and get into easy
ways. Our house dog barks in a subdued, measured manner ;
the fastest gait I have detected in their horses is a quiet
shuffle bet-.veen a trot and an amble ; the cows chime in with
the rest and sport in the meadows a diminutive bell, whose
metaUic tinkle lulls them to sleep ; roosters are objected,
to in the settlement, their loud crowing is calculated to
awaken the old dowagers at dawn.
" I should imagine that worthy old Lt-Governor Cox, in
T774, instead of horses on his carriage, when he travelled
from the shire lown, New-Cariisle, lo Gaspd Basin or Perce,
had a span of sturdy, young, sober-minded oxen, like that
illustrious Roi d' Yvetot : —
" Quatre boeufs, d'un pas majestueux et lent,
Promenaieut dans Paris, le Monarque indolent."

— 183 —
TJncle Sam's earnest, humorous theoiy of Gaspesians tickled
•me, I must confess. It brought back to my mind those
<Jreamy personages so graphically delineated by De Quincey.
I had been told that great travellers had occasionally
seen queer sights, in the Kingdom of Cod and Mackerel.
The very next day, I learned of a strange modus operandi
which in times of yore obtained in the treatment of criminals :
it happened some time after Confederation and came to
light in the following manner.
The Government in order to correct some abuses, which
had crept in the administration of justice and especially in
the discipline of the prisons, named a commissioner. On
his arrival, at one of the jails, he found the jailor, on the
Court House steps, smoking a gigantic Dutch meerschaum,
seated in an easy chair ; the following dialogue took place ;
The jailor : —
" Mr. Commissioner, I am happy, to make your acquain
tance ; you are sent by Government, it is said, to straighten
up matters generally. Won't you step in and see how we
manage here : my turnkey is out, on the banks catching his
winter supply of cod. The jail is well patronized ; I have
eighteen prisoners to look after, all in capital health. "
— " WeU, said the Commissioner, let us see them. "
Are you in a hurry, replied the genial jariitor? Could you
not call after sunset ? and I will have them all in attendance,
in apple pie order. "
— " Well, not easily : in fact I raust see the jail and its
inmates right off, to make up my report, " retorted the
ofiicial. " Sorry, your honor should have so little leisure ; the fact
is, when the weather is fine, I turn out my captives at eight
a. m. sharp, they take a lounge round the country, do up ray
garden, catch a few fresh trout for ray dinner ; at sun down,
all return safe to their quarters. I treat them well and they
do not mind being deprived of their evening's arauseraents.
J wanted to change this practice when I was appointed, but

— 184 —
the county raeraber interfered, he had a friend to look after.
Wait until the evening, they are looking up my two cows
which strayed away in the woods and I proraise you to trot
out every man jack of the eighteen. " Tableau I
NEW CARLISLE.

A U. E. Settlement — the caldwell manor.
New Carlisle, 26th August, 1887.
" A place lying out of the way of innovation ; therefore it has the
pure, sweet air of antiquity ahout it. " —
fLeigh Hunt's " Southgate.")—
After many peregrinations here I am again at the loved
old home of King George's faithful adherents, the United
Empire Loyalists of 1783, New Carlisle, Baie des Chaleurs,
on my way from Paspebiac. After wishing success to my
exceUent Boniface, Mynheer Clemens, whose cosy hostelry
crowns the heights which overhang the fishy realm of the
warlike, but not over-prosperous Paspyjacks, I have admired
the airy position of ex-Lieut-Governor RobilaUle's roomy
mansion, as well as the stately structure in process of
erection by his brother, the Inspector of Customs. Soon
other matters engaged ray attention.
" Are you not the gentleman who hunts up old manus
cripts, deserted castles, ancient ruins, shipwrecks, histories,
legends or every kind?" was one of the first greetings
extended to me.
I looked up aud found myself confronted by a jolly,
round-faced New CarlisUan, holding in his arms a bouncing
two year-old baby, a credit to the kingdom of herring and
cod, and whom he appeared to care for as the apple of
his eye.
" Well, I said, go on. Suppose I should, do you know of
any law lo prevent ? "

— 185 —
" Not by any means. Squire, " he briskly replied, and the
'^oWy pater familias went on to inform me that I was but a
¦few yards from, the oldest house in the settlement, the iden
tical log house built more than one hundred years previous
by tbe Land Surveyor Vonden Veldon, who had been
employed by the Government to lay out in square lots, the
site of the future shiretown, New Carlisle, now the clief-
lieu of the populous County of Bonaventure. Ils dimensions
were 30 by 20 feet, with a wing at the east end. The dwell
ing, he said, originally had but one story, with a mansard
Toof, on which a diminutive story had been added a species
of attic or cock-loft, lit up by two diminutive windows two
feet square. The house has quite an historic interest ; here,
lived occasionnally brave Lt.-Governor Cox, about 1774.
In the spacious ceUar, which can store 500 bushels of pota
toes, may yet be seen a recess, in which he may have kept
his wine. A stroUing court was held here at times by the
Imperial magnate. At the east end of the dwelling, a spot
is shown where of yore existed a whipping post ; tradition
mentions the whipping there of a blackraan for some
delinquency or other. Governor Cox,however, sojourned also
at another house near by. You may yet see the solid chairs
said to have belonged to him at Caldwell Manor. "
Go on, my friend, I chimed in ; I know somelhing about
th'e defunct Governor. The Lieutenant-Governorship of
Gaspe was one of the many sinecures, which roused the
patriotic ire of the Papineau party, in the old House of
Assembly, In 1821, the House tried to aboUshthe sinecure,
on the grounds that the incumbent was often an absentee
from the Province. The salary had been reduced from
jQijOoo to ^300. In 1825, it refused to pass this item in
the civU list In 1831, Lord Aylmer alluded to it in his
message to the House, expressing the hope " that if the
place is abolished, the incumbent will be indemnified."
Nicholas Cox, a distinguished British officer at the battle of
the Plains of Abraham, under Wolfe, had been conspicuous
by his gaUantry at the blockade of Quebec in 1775 ; he had
served at Louisbourg and commanded a company of the
47th at the siege of Quebec in 1759. Sir Guy Carleton had

— 186 —
named him on his staff In the Lieutenant-Governorship
of Gasp6, he had succeeded a Mr. EUiott. He was pen
sioned in 1780 on account of his infirmities, and had for his
successor Col. Francis LeMaitre, Adjutant General ofthe
Provincial Militia, who resided at Perce and died in Ste.
FamiUe street, Quebec, on the i3lh February, 1805.
The old Quebec Gazette records the death and mUitary
funeral of Lieutenant-Governor Cox, who died Sth January,
1794, at the ripe age of 70.
I feel much interest in what you state ; but do not forget
Lt.-Governor Cox was also " Superintendent ofthe Labrador
Fisheries," and spent large sums of Imperial money in
building up King George's pet colony at New Carlisle. Mr.
C. — (such must be his name), then offered to escort me to
the historic house, which after the days of Governor Cox,
and the departure of the Land Surveyor Vonden Velden
and his successor McDonald, came into the possession of a
U. E. Loyalist of the name of Caldwell, a man of note and
substance, in the Slate of New- York, in 1783, whose pro
perty was confiscated, and who was glad to avail himself of
the royal, bounty in wild lands offered to the expatriated
loyalists by the Sovereign of Great Britain, George III. I
took advantage of the offer of my new cicerone. Soon both
of us were ensconced within the sacred precincts of the
" oldest house " the CaldweU Manor. We had not long to
¦wait, and were courteously greeted by two very inlelligent
and active, aged damsels with an unmlstakeable Presbyterian
air in all their belongings.
They told me that their father was born in New-York, and
accompanied his father to New Carlisle, just then laid out
for settlers by Government. The house had been but little
altered since its construction. On my noticing panels all
round the roora lo a height of about three feet, they informed
me that instead of lath and plaster partitions, such as I now

— 187 —
saw above the pannels, there were square prckets with can^
vass, and paper to cover them in early days. The ceiling had
an unmlstakeable antique aspect ; the " wide throated "
chimney-place in the west gable, had been removed, but the
pannels hiding its nakedness, still remained.
I saw the historic chairs, and felt like a Lieut-Governor
on seating myself on the highest. Two old hand-painted
China tea cups were shown, of a most antique pattern ;
one was cracked. I was pleased to see that the pieces had
again been knitted together. " Take great care of these
treasures, said I, they are more precious than gold."
These worthy dames represent the third generation
of Caldwells, who had nesded under the roof of the
CaldweU Manor ; they seemed quite satisfied with their lot,
had never had the curiosity to visit Quebec, did not care
to see it, nor Montreal, " Our father, who died raore than
30 years ago, said the eldest, has often told us of his youth
ful days, at the Manor ; of the excitement caused in the settle
ment by the arrival at Paspebiac, of the first missionary, a
clergyman by the name of Dreep ; of his riding down to Pas-
pebiac,then as now,the port and roadstead for foreign vessels,
of his trip back to New Carlisle, with His Reverence
mounted on our parent's horse, whilst our dear father walked
at his side, through a bridle-path ; of the eagerness of the
youths and maidens, rushing out of the log -huts, lo catch a
glimpse of what a real live clergyman might look like ; of
the first raarriage in the settleraent — our father being the
bridegroom, and his bride our beloved mother." She could
not say whether these clerical visits were annual, but she
again appealed to her excellent memory to repeat what her
father had told her about subsequent visits of the clergyman
when one, when two babies were born ; " of the hard lot
of the unlucky parson, whose room in the second story
was on such occasions, invaded by infantile music, to that
degree, that His Reverence had to retreat to the cock-loft

— 188 —
already described, and which was shown to me, — to prepare
his sermons for the mission. " Our faiher, she added, was a
shipbuilder, and built a whole fleet of schooners. In addi
tion to the Caldwell clan, there are yet at New Carlisle
several descendants of the first setders ; the Shearers, Bebees
Scotts, Munroes. Let us hie away, and say good-bye to the
hospitable old home of the U. E. loyaUsts of 1783, and wish
success to ex-Lieut Governor RobitaiUe's darling railway
scheme, destined to revolutionise the whole county, even
if its stock is not snapped up at once as gilt-edged invest
ments.

A GLIMPSE OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

" Prince Edward Isle ! fit subject for the lays
Of sweeter minstrel : how shall I aspire —
As best I may — to celebrate thy praise ;
Whose praise might well employ the noblest lyre ?
.... nearest to my thoughts, while thoughts remain
Must be thy flowing streams, thy woods and fertile plain. '
The Island Minstrel — Joh/n Iiepage.
" Flowing streams, woods and fertile plains," such indeed
would be an appropriate motto for this green, sunny and
populous little Kingdom.
There it stood, the sea-girt isle, basking in sunshine,
fanned by old ocean's cool breezes, from the commence
ment of days, through that remote age when sighted in
1497. by Sebastian Cabot, discovered, in 1523, by Verazani,
down to the happy times, centuries later, in 1797, when its
legislature, under the guidance of its speaker, J. Stewart,
and Lieut-Governor Ed. Fanning, passed an Act of Parlia
ment (the Act 39, Geo, III, Cap. I), to substitute for its

— 189 —
old French name of lie St. Jean, Saint John's Island, that
of the Commander ofthe Forces in the Maritime Provinces,
Prince Edward, fourth son of His Majesty George III.
Though the preamble of the Acl avers that it was thus
intended " to perpetuate ifn omne volubile cevum) the grate
ful remembrance of that peculiarly auspicious, and happy
period of this Island having been under the coraraand of
Lieutenant-General His Royal Highness Prince Edward,
Commander-in-Chief of His Majesty's Forces, in the Dis
trict of Nova Scotia, Islands of St John, Cape Breton and
Newfoundland, &c., " there was something more than a
gush of loyally to the House of Hanover. A drop of the
practical, an atom of utilitarianism permeated the "grate
ful remembrance." The inmates of this fairy land, no more
than less favoured mortals, are free from the taint of utilita-
rianisra. The Act adds that the new narae ought also to
have for effect to prevent English letters, parcels and mer
chandize intended for the Island, from miscarrying, and
being conveyed by mistake " to St John, New Brunswick ;
St. John, Newfoundland, St. John, on the Labrador Coast,
or elsewhere. "
This far-sighted adraixture of selfinterest into their
native, guileless and pastoral ways, has helped, on more
emergencies than one, to bring the Islanders to the surface,
apart from the grand national scheme of Confedera
tion, so gracefully accepted by them in 1873, at the hands
of Sir John MacDonald.
At the moment we write these lines, comfortably seated,
facing the rippling waters ofthe Hillsborough river, in view of
Government House, whose Khedive, Sir Rob. Hodgson, is
preparing to abdicate on the morrow, and from whence
issued, in 1873, the mighty scheme of Confederatien,
pregnant with a far-reaching future, we are confronted by
the Island press, teeming with bitter denunciations and
; remembrances, this time not " auspicious," which Dominion

— 190 —
Day evokes. For the life of us, we fail to see how the
jaunty little Island has suffered by the terms of the co-part
nership entered into with her big sister Provinces. That
era of Arcadian bUss, ofthe lo p. c. tariff, when Dominion
Day existed not, has, indeed, passed away. Why then mourn,
as if there was no hope, because a blight has faUen on ship
building, because timber should have been manufactured
in excess ofthe market demand, and bank dividends should
have shrunk ? Is Prince Edward Island worse off than her
neighbours? We opine not Confederation exists as 2. fait
accompli. It has opened to our insulated brethren the markets
of all British North America; provided funds, some $800,-
000, to extinguish vexed proprietary questions, and rights,
thereby healing a festering sore of long standing ; completed
the line of Island Railway, at an enormous cost, continues
to run it al an enormous loss. The Dominion, even, pater
nally undertook to solve at a heavy outlay the naturally
insoluble problem of winter-steam navigation, to connect
the Island with ter7-a firma ; provides for the expense of
the civil list, of the fishery and olher services ; aU this in
exchange for what ? Why, in exchange for a meagre custom,
excise and postal revenue. To an unsophisticated outsider.
Confederation for the Island means tangible and substantial
benefit. Prince Edward Island is, undoubtedly, smarting,
though not lo the same extent as the rest of the world,
under commercial depression. Shipping may be under a
cloud — a dark cloud, &c., but the backbone ofthe Island,
its agricultural resources, is sound ; and in spile of bad
times and low prices, its industrious and inteUigent farmers
are hoarding up their spare cash, not in old socks, like our
iriend Jean-Baptiste ofthe Province of Quebec, but in solid,
well-managed savings banks.
In addition to their large returns in oats, potatoes, hay,
stall-fed cattle, the farmers, and they are the bone, and
sinew of the place, are resuming, and with marked success

— 191 —
the culture of wheat, the raising of which, the weevil had for
several years interrupted.
UnUke the bustling communities on terra firma, the
Islanders, though a little depressed, are not restless, tur
bulent, steeped in crime and social rebellion. Foreign
customs, new-fangled ideas, 'tis true, are not encouraged ;
. they are quite happy without them ; they luxuriate in their
own thoughts. They are progressive, too, but in their own
traditional way. They look to legislative action for perfecti-
bUity in the human species ; they believe in the efficacy of
an Act of Parliament, even beyond the most sanguine hopes
of Lord Eldon, or any ChanceUorof the Exchequer. Their
last and most notable effort is to moralise the people
by Act of Parliament. True Patriots have found it, 'tis said,
in the Dunkin Temperance Act, and total abstinence is the
order of the day in Charlottetown. Summerside, and various
other seaports, are crowded, a porlion of the year, with jolly
tars and old salts, who would as soon give up the ghost as
abjure their pipe and their glass of grog. The hotels are run on
the cold water, and spruce beer principle, a blissful change,
we are told. Let us hope the Draconian edict may flourish
more in Charlottetown than il did in Boston and in Ontario.
The omnipotency of an Act of Parliament, however, was
believed in, nearly a century back. Thus we find on their
statute book, page 90, the Act of George III, Cap. VI, inti
tuled : " An Act for quieting the minds of His Majesty's
dissenting Protestant subjects. " This " quieting of the
minds of His Majesty's subjects " by Act of Parliament
opens out a rich vain of inquiry ; 'tis quaint, if not original ;
' perhaps it may be both. One should like to be inforraed
whether another legislative decree achieved all it purported
to do by its tide, viz : the 26 George III, Cap. XIV, " An
Act io prevent the multiplicity of lawsuits."
' A law sanctioned by the Legislature six years previous,
viz : in 1780, places in a curious /z/,a;/«-position objects very

— 192 —
dissimilar. The title runs thus: "An Act for preventing
the running at large of stone horses .... and the kiUing of
partridges at improper seasons." (20 Geo. Ill, cap. V.)
Grouse were likely meant. Is not this making game of the
birds ? Our readers must forgive us for serving up these
airy nothings ; the only plea we have to offer in extenua
tion is a hot wave in the atmosphere, which makes the
consideration of serious subjects, a task ultra vires. In our
next we shall mount the historical horse.
Charlottetown, P. E. Island, 3rd July. 1879,

Sea-Side Hotel, Rastico Beach, 6th July, 1879.
Before plunging into historic lore, let us rusticate for one
day, in the sweet seclusion of green woods, on the shores of
the sounding sea, amidst the hamlets of the descendants of
the exiled Acadians. Possibly some of them may know
something of old Pierre Leblanc, and his dispersed friends,
which Longfellow forgot to tell us.
Racicot, (i)as it is known to the French ofthe seventeenth
century — Rustico, to the present inhabitants ; such will be
our haven of rest ; there, shall we rusticate. The much
vaunted spot, will it come up to our expectations ? A few
hours will tell.
That almighty Confederation bribe, the Railway, is just
now landing us at Hunter River Station, seven miles from
Rustico^ where Squire Newson, the enterprising proprietor
ofthe Sea Side Hotel, keeps in readiness a line of stages.

(1) This old French fishing post protected of yore, by a fort,
which stood on Roland's Point, takes its name from a Frenchman.
M. Racicot, who returned to France, when England took possession
of the Island.

— 193 —
Why is it caUed Hunter River Station ? Is there anything
there to specially attract the P. E. Island Nimrods ? was
one of our first questions lo the stage driver, a well-to-do
Scotch farmer.
— " The story is long, sir, but, I shall try and make it as
short as I can, " — retorted our Jehu.
" Do not mind the length, " we replied : " the road to
Rustico wUl be longer than your story."
Thus discoursed our charioteer :
" In the reign of good Governor Smith, long before I
was born, in fact, at a lime when speculators in land flocked
to our Island, there came an EngUsh officer bent on trying
his fortune here. He was good looking and young ; rich,
some said. The doors of raany of the quality, having marri
ageable daughters, were opened to him. He won the affec
tions of a young lady, the name I forget. She had beauty,
he had wealth ; they were engaged. The wedding was to
eorae off in the ensuing spring. The young laird in the
meantime got to be a great sportsman : he was, when not
sparking, constantly blazing away at bears, cariboo, loups-
cert'iers, martins and partridges. He organized a great hunt,
under the guidance of Micraac Indians, at the extreme end
of the island. Illness overtook him in the depth of the
woods ; one solitary Indian watched over him. No tidings
came to the desponding young lady : wearied at last with
hope deferred, she accepted as true a report that her lover
had perished from illness and cold. Tirae rolled on : the
charm of a discarded lover slackened. A few months, and
another wedding day was fixed on. All was joy, feasting,
sunshine in her island home. Bridal dresses were ordered,
as well as plum cake ; sprightly maidens and beaux clustered
at the ball ; the clergyman was preparing to read the mar
riage service ; the bridgroom longed to slip on the mystic
ring, when a loud knock at the parlor door startled even
the aged clergyman. The door was thrown open, when who
should rush in frantically, but the long absent lover. Taking
in at a glance the end of all his fond hopes, he retreated
outside rapidly without saying a word. The young lady
fainted ; there was no wedding that day ; but, instead,.
sorrow, confusion, tears all round. Probably illness might
have impaired the mind of the English officer ; instead

— 194 —
of claiming his bethrothed, he rapidly struck out for the
adjoining woods. Search was made for him that day ;
the next — and the next ; all in vain. Many weeks after, some
trappers descending the river banks, the river you now
see, came on the remains of the poor gendeman. Hunger
and exposure had probably caused his death. As the
coroner was living miles away, a hole was dug in the red clay,
and there he has rested, until some years ago, when the
island having becorae more populous, and a survey having
been ordered to settle a boundary question, it was debated
by one of the party whether the British officer was buried
there or not. A search was made. Sure enough, at the
place indicated by old people, were found the skull and
bones of Mr. Hunter. I could take you now to the very spot,
the river has ever since been called Hunter river. "
Such the version given me by my Scotch charioteer. On we
jogged over soft, pleasant roads, of porous red soil, like the
rest of the island ; drawn by a powerful grey mare, a worthy
descendant, we were told, ofthe famous horse " Messenger,"
who has left a numerous progeny, and an honored name,
among the Islanders.
From Hunter River to Rustico, lies a fertile rolling
¦country, whose potato and oat fields, and hen roosts, are occa
sionally inclosed with a solid red stone fence. A clump of
.fir, spruce or white birch, diversifies the landscape. We
rapidly closed in with a mill stream, alive with jumping
trout. To the west, a neat green hedge, reminding you of
Quebec hedges, showed that a Scotch gardener had tried
his hand there. Three churches are here visible, an English,
a Tresbyterian and a R. C. temple of worship, the latter
flanked on one side by the Farmers' Bank of Rustico ; on
the olher, by a lofty, handsome structure, to be opened next
July as a Roman Catholic convent.
The Rustico Bank discounts for the fishermen and the far
mers ; a method of banking requiring, one should imagine,
more than one safeguard, to ensure lo p. c. dividends, such
as this favored institution, with a capital of ;^3,ooo, has
heen paying.

— 195 —
10 p. c. dividends out ofa capital of ;^3,ooo, loaned out
probably, @ 7>^ P- c., inclusive of manager and clerk's
salaries ! this is a tour deforce whieh. would make the fortune
of any Montreal banker, even with issue treble of capital !
Rustico, by the Church Registers which begin, in 1812, was
a R. C. Mission, ministered to then by Rev. Louis Beau
bien, who lefl in 1818 and died, at Montmagny, about 1873.
It was the episcopal seat of the late Bishop McDonald,
who lived here thirty years, and ultimately died at the
College of St. Dunstan, in Charlottetown.
An enlightened R. C. Missionary, Rev. Mr. Belcour,
¦seems to have been the Guardian Angel, and regenerator of
the poor Acadians. Instead of encouraging them to isolate
themselves from their enterprising Scotch and EngUsh
neighbors, he bade them imitate their ways of tiUing the
soU, and housing themselves. The rustic damsels, instead
of covering their persons with their uncouth rag petticoats,
their draguet and coarse cloth, were told that their morals
would not be tainted, by wearing dresses and bonnets like
the Scotch, and Irish lasses, their neighbors.
Rustico has also its legend ; a pious one, connected with
its chapel, in which on special, red letter days, long, long
ago, sweet, powerful, mysterious voices blended with the
choir, heard by many, unmlstakeable by their compass ;
" the good angels of heaven, " said the descendants of
Acadians " encouraging them to persevere to the end, in this
vale of sorrow." These sweet voices of other days are now
silent An urbane gentleraan, educated in France, drove
us to visit the Acadian Patriarch of an adjoining setde
ment — New Glasgow. The patriarch, by name Mr. Dorion,
aged 88, was absent. Alas I with him departed our
hopes of spicy bits of local information about the compa
triots of EvangeUne, their joys and their sorrows. New
Glasgow is a sweetly, pretty pastoral land of oats, and pota
toes ; an elyseum for patriotic hens, laying day and night.

— 196 —
here as elsewhere, for the profit and comfort ofthe Islanders.
The export of eggs, as all can see, who cross in the Shediac
steamer " St. Lawrence " or " Princess of Wales " is a mine
of infinite wealth. The eggs are carefully put up in square
boxes — 2 feet by i feet 3 inches^with paper trays ; each egg
fitting in its grove — an ingenious contrivance of their Boston
customers : the same boxes, going to and fro all summer :
representing a trade of many millions of eggs. Happy
lslanders,to own such patriotic hens ; hens of angelic ins
tincts — the saviours of the Island ! May their shadow,
feathers and laying qualities never grow less ! Did Evange
line ever own such hens !
Prince Edward Island has some years back, discovered in
the black soil, which gathers at the entrance of ils creeks
and rivers, a compost, which is a fertilizer of wondrous effica
cy ; a portion ofthe winter is devoted lo drawing with teams
this incomparable manure, which combines marine detritus
and shells, and is extracted through the ice, by an ingenious,
though simple machine. This black soil, called Mussel
Mud, lasts more than twenty years on land, and excells any
stable manure.
In New Glasgow, the Scot as usual prospers fabulously,
and finds worthy competitors in the English and Irish.
Some few Acadians are now following suit, and several own
well cultivated and good farms. Land is high in price now
all over the Island.
On a sunny green slope, we were' shown the paternal roof
of Lieut. -Governor Laird. The sons of Scotia have reason
to be proud at New Glasgow, P. E. I., as well as in old
Glasgow.

197

MAGDALEN ISLAND GROUP.
It was a welcome change to quit the dusty train, and take
possession of even one of the diminutive state rooms on Capt
LeMaistre's staunch little steamer, the Beaver, which lay
moored to the Pictou wharf, waiting with steara up, for the
arrival of the Halifax train. A weird whistle, a puU on the
captain's bell, and the Beaver was churning the briny deep,
en route, vi§, Georgetown and Souris, for the Magdalen
Island group.
I longed to set foot on the land, so considerately handed
over on Sth June, 1798, by the British Government, through
Lord Dorchester to Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir) Isaac
Coffin, in recognition of the services rendered by hira to
Britain, pending the war of Independence.
Jacques Cartier, had, on the 22nd July, 1534, sighted
these soHlary isles ; then, the undisputed kingdom of the
walrus, the seal and the lobster ; they were named Ramses,
Bryon and Al^zay. Thirteen in number they acquired later
on, their present names : Amherst, Entry, Grindstone,
Alright, Coffin, Wolf, Deadman, Grosse Isle, Bryon, Gannet
Rock, Little Bird Rock, Gull Island. They assume the
forra of a hoirseshoe, and lie at the entrance of the Gulf of
the St. Lawrence ; about forty-five miles in length, their
greatest width is thirteen miles, and they are connected by
double sand bars forming lagoons. In 1663, the Company
of New France granted these islands to Sieur Frangois
Doublet, a mariner of Honfleur, in France, and on the ist
February, 1664, Sieur Doublet associated himself with
Frangois Gon de Quimpe, and Claude de Laudemar in a
fishing speculation. In 17 19, we find the French King
ceding this territory to Lecompte de St Pierre, at the
instance of the Duchesse of Orleans. Later on, in 1757,
four Acadian farailies were located there : the Boudrault,
13

— 198 —
Chiasson, Lapierre and Cormier ; they had come from St.
Peter's Bay, in Prince Edward Island, and found employ
ment under an enterprising Bostonian, a retired EngUsh
Officer of the narae of Gridley, who had opened an estab
Ushment to trade in walrus and seal oil.
Poetry, marine disaster, as well as the war of the elements
has invested this sea-girt domain with a weird halo. We all
reraeraber Tora Moore's harraonious lines, when on a dark
Septeraber evening in 1804, he sailed past the dreaded
shores of Deadman's Island, which derives its name from
the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse
laid out for burial ; but our's was not a " shadowy bark ",
iior a phantom ship :
There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore
Of cold and pitiless Labrador,
Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost
Pull many a mariner's bones are tossed,
Ton shadowy bark hath been to that wreck,
Aud the dim blue fire that lights her deck
Doth play on as pale and livid a crew
As ever yet drank the churchyard dew.
To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast.
To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast ;
By skeleton shapes her sails are furled
And the hand that steers is not of this world.
The Beaver had several stoppages to make, and pictures
que headlands to pass, before reaching the anchorage, at
Amherst, the port of entry, where I landed in a boat, and
made my way to the Custom House on the hiU.
Amherst is named after Lord Amherst, so intimately
associated with our war of the conquest ; to the Acadians,
its chief inhabitants, it is known as Havre-au-Ber. It con
tains about sixty houses ; it is eleven miles in length, and
not more than four at its greatest breadth. My attention
was directed to Point Gridley, where the worthy English

— 199 —
Officer is said to have concealed a treasure, and soon I
noticed the two curious hills called Les Demoiselles ; one
of which in Amherst harbor has the shape of a lady reclining,
a " sleeping beauty " in a flowing robe.
Then there is Cap-de-Meule, exhibiting the profile of a
most dignified contenance, along a grim grey ledge of rocks ;
one can distinguish the nose and the chin. An imaginative
passenger vowed he could see a big, black tear trickling
from one of its eyes.
Another Cape rejoices in the name of Pointe au Pain,
because vessels from sea call here first for bread, pain. At
break of day I was pacing the deck of the little Beaver,
watching a moist, but gorgeous, sunrise. At breakfast, Capt
LeMaistre aware of my desire to be acquainted with the
history of the Islands, which now loomed out in the hazy
distance, introduced me to a well informed Prince Edward
Islander, Miss A.-M. Pope, who had come on board, the
night previous, when we touched at Georgetown, Prince
Edward Island. Miss Pope was full of Island lore and was
kind enough to place at ray disposal, a New York Magazine
article, (i) she had written on the Magdalen Island group,
from which, with her leave, I shall make several excerpts.
" In speaking of the Magdalen Island group visited by
Bishop Plessis, in i8ti, which he correctly likens to the
formation of a horse-shoe, one notices Sandy Hook in
Amherst Island, and Cape Alright, at the extremity of the
island of that name, which guard the entrance to the beau
tiful sheet of water known as Pleasant Bay, while between
the two, stands Entry Island, a picturesque sentinel. We
steam carefully past Sandy Hook with a due respect for
that dangerous shoal, pass under the lee of Entry Island,
and, making for a crescent-shaped cove, come to anchor
.about half way between the eastern extremity of Amherst
<1) In and round ttie Magdalen Islands, by Miss A.-M. Pope.

— 200 —
Island, known as Point Gridley, and the curious conical
brace of hills called Les DemoiseUes.
From the grass-grown pinnacle of Demoiselle Hill the
view is superb. At one's feet the quiet gray vUlage edged
with light fishing stages, stretches away to Gridley's Point,
on the extremity of which stands a tiny Protestant Chapel ;
staring defiantly across the bay at the beautifully propor
tioned church of Notte-Dame, on the opposite headland.
To the west, lies Basin, - the sun setting behind its wooded
hills, and lighting up the surface of its placid lagoon, in
which are reflected as in a mirror the spire, the house tops,
and the boats that dance on its waters. Curving round the
bay on the north-west, stretches the horse-shoe of land, now
rising into bold headlands, now sinking into low sand-ridges,
whilst in all directions on the blue water float the white sail
of the fishermen. Beyond Entry Island twenty-one leagues
to the south, is the high, blue line ofthe Cape Breton coast,
and to the south lost in the horizon, the low shores of
Prince Edward Island. "
I was invited by the Captain of the Beaver lo accompany
him in a five miles drive over the smiUng meadows, woods,
and sandy lagoons of this quaint land. Soon we reached
VEtang du Nord, where we visited a thriving lobster canning
factory, owned by a Mr. Leslie ; he kindly presented us with
some magnificent speciraens of the Crustacea. During the
journey I learned rauch about the resources of the " King
dom OF Fish " as the Magdalen group is styled.
It appears that as many as 20,000 seals have been killed
around these shores, in one season; they pup about ist March,
and disappear during the spring, returning probably to the
cool, foggy shores of Alaska ; the small skins raw are worth
50 cents each, the large ones $1.50. They are salted, and
sent to England to be prepared, and the fat, cut up in bits,
is rendered down by the action of the sun in huge tanks.

— 201 —
the oU let out by faucets into barrels, and sold, according to
its grade, pale, straw color, and so forth.
But let us hear Miss Pope describe this Arcadia of the
finny tribe. " One beautiful summer morning, she says,
we started to drive to Grindstone Island, to visit the pretty
little village called L'Eiang du Nord, an expedition that
perhaps more than any olher gives an insight into the pecu
liarities of the Magdalen Islands. About eight o'clock we
left Amherst viUage, and drove along by the side of a spark
ling lagoon, in which the fishing boats were beginning to be
astir. At every few yards we met one of the quaint little
wooden carts so numerous here. They are several sizes
smaller than the usual farra cart, and are perfectly innocent
of springs, or paint, or any modern improvements. These
eharettes are drawn by small, sturdy ponies with wonderful
powers of endurance, which jog along regarding hills, dales,
plains or ditches, with the most stolid indifference. Soon
after leaving the shore of the lagoon we pass what looks
like a mineral spring, judging from its rusty, oily appearance.
Near here is also a pretty little fresh water river, famous for
the plentiful trout that lurk in its waters. An attractive
feature of the brooks,and ponds here,is that they are frogless.
St. Patrick must have taken this place under his special
protection as not a frog, toad or snake has ever been found
on any part of the Magdalen Islands. Not far from La
Rivilre, we turn into what is called the ' Mountain Road '
and here we see for the first time the curious formation of
these lofty hills."
" They are for the raost part conical in shape, but near the
top there is almost always a deep hoUow ; sometimes four
or five peaks surround one of these hollows. Others are on
the hiU side, their cavernous depths shaded by stunted
pine-trees ; some are dry, and along their edges delicate
Michaelmas daisies and trailing vines grow in profusion ;
others, again, are full of water, and their suUen fathoms have

— 202 —
never been sounded, around and upon these hills are found
fused ironstone, cinders, terfa, lava, and other signs of
eruptions 
The geology of the Magdalen Islands is well worthy of
study, furnishing many rich, and varied specimens, not only
of stones but of minerals.
After leaving the mountains, the road, which, by the
way, is disgraced by some very bad bridges, lies through
a level country, where among the short brushwood we
gathered an abundance of blueberries, and of the small red
berry known in Nova Scotia as fox berry, also another
ground fruit, sraall and hard, of a light grey colour with
dark spots, called by the Islanders Mohoks. These berries
make excellent preserves. The large cranberries grow in
great abundance on the dunes, and find a ready market in
Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. Another berry
found here in swamp-land is the lake apple, so abundant in
Labrador — a small, juicy, white fruit, in appearance resem
bling a white raspberry ; it is in season in July, as are the
wild strawberries that grow here in the greatest profusion.
Raspberries also are plentiful, and wild currants. In our
search for fox berries, we came across several varieties of
ferns, but all such as are commonly found in the adjacent
provinces 
At a distance of about eleven miles from Amherst village
we took the shore ; and how is it possible to describe the
charms of that wonderful sea-road ? From the deck of the
Be&ver, Amherst and Grindstone had appeared two distinct
Islands, but now we saw an immense sheet of sand that con
nects thera, and which at low tide forms a safe and pleasant
roadway — safe at least, if one has a pilot ; for deep and
dangerous quicksands abound on every side, and woe be to
the luckless adventurer whom nightfall should catch on
these shoals 1 along the chain of high ridges run the posts
of the sorely needed, and much-prized telegraph. Against

— 203 —
the western shore the surf beats in, incessantly chanting its
never-ending dirge over those whom its pitiless waters
have engulfed. But very calm and beautiful was the sea of
St. Lawrence that suraraer day, and its waves murmured
softly and cooingly, as they twined strange wreaths of wild
sea-grasses round our horses' feet, and brought us delicate
mosses and dainty sheUs, as if to allure us to venture nearer
to their treacherous depths ; but ever and anon the gentle
waves broke against the wooden waU of some ill-fated wreck
that, lodged in the tenacious sand-bar, stood grim testimony
to the truth of Mr. Stedman's beautiful poem :
'' Woe, woe to those whom the islands pen I
In vain they shun the double capes ;
Cruel are the reefs of Magdalen ;
The Wolfs white fang what prey escapes 7
The Grindstone grinds the bones of some.
And Coffin Island is craped with foam ;
On Deadman's shore are fearful shapes. "
On the eastern side of the sand-bar, to our right hand,
stretches the beautiful lagoon called Havre-aux-Basques,
that has quite a deep channel in which a schonner can winter.
It is shut in by a low marsh-land (called here the Bara-
chois) (i) rich in cranberries and blueberries, and in the
spring time a great receptacle for gannet's eggs. It is after pass
ing the shore ofthe gulf and the lagoon, that the destructive*
features of the landscape are seen. All around us for mUes
stretches a vast unbounded plain of shining sand, crossed
here and there by little guUies in which our tired horses
cool their weary feet. On one side the telegraph posts stand
lean and gaunt, in the sand-hills, interspersed here and
there with the broken masts of some ill-fated vessels. These
sand-hills produce an abundance of grass of which cattle
are very fond, and at this marine harvest some men were
(1) Bar-echou6e ?

-- 204 —
working heartily. To our right as far as the eye could reach
the sands were dotted with women digging clams. These
women cOrae from a long distance in their little carts, and
their patient horses wait their mistresses' pleasure. Owing to
some atraospheric peculiarity every object seeraed inagni-
fied, and away out on the horizon these little horses, and
their industrious drivers assuraed giant proportions."
The bird Isles, lies aux Oiseaax described by the Jesuits,
as Les Colombiers, dove cots, in 1632, are two bare rocks of
red sand stone, three-quarters of a raile apart, the largest
known as Gannet Rock is 1,300 feet long and 100-140 feet
high, lined with vertical cliffs. These isles are haunted by
iraraense numbers of sea fowl, gannets, guiUemots, puffins,
kittiwakes, and raizor-billed auks ; immense quantities of eggs
are carried thence by the islanders ; they are mentioned by
Herriot, in 1807. Later on Audubon notices them in his
great work,and, in i86o,thelateDr. Henry Bryant,of Boston,
on his way from Quebec to Labrador, visited the Magdalen
Island group, and gave an excellent history of its avi-fauna
which, I reproduced, in the Chronicles of the St. Lawrence.
Charlevoix visited these islands, in 1720, and wondered how
in such a multitude of nests every bird immediately finds
its own. We fired a gun which gave the alarm thro' all the
flying commonwealth, and there was formed above the two
"islands, a thick cloud of these birds which was at least two
or there leagues around. The naturalist Chas.-B. Cory has
also described the birds frequenting the Magdalen Islands.
Miss Pope thus aUudes to her ascent of the rock. " The
Great Bird rises to a height of 140 feet perpendicularly from
the sea. It h|s four acres of ground on its summit. Here
(in 1872). a light house was built where, on a salary of twelve
hundred dollars per annum, a man is content to live almost
alone in the middle of these raging waters. To caU upon
this gentleman requires more "pluck" than is usually
demanded on a visit of ceremony. By the aid of a crane

— 205 —
and windlass, a wooden box was lowered into which we
packed ourselves with, il must be confessed, a slight mis
giving. The word was given and this primitive elevator
began to ascend ; up we went past countless denizens of
the feathered kingdom, gannets, puffins, guillemots and
gulls, birds of all sizes, shapes and colours. The air was
full of birds, and the air was also very unpleasant by reason
of the contents of these birds' larder, being soraewhat decom
posed ; everywhere, scraps of decaying fish and bits of egg
shells, birds tame, fearless almost to stupidity. . The ascent
took about half an hour. Those who possess the spirit of
adventure will find it well worth their while to call on the
lighthouse keeper in his " sky-parlors " on Bird Rock. The
light on the top is a fixed light visible for twenty-one mUes.
With the station is connected a telegraph-office to report acci
dents. The noise made by the birds is something deafening."
{A naturalist in the Magdalen Islands, by
Chs.-B. Coby, Boston, 1878.)

During my short stay at Amherst, I learned with satis
faction of the efforts made to improve the breed of cattle —
especially horses, on the island : the R. C. pastor, Revd M.
Boudreault has gone to considerable expense, in importing-
from France choice specimens of the Norman and Percheron
equine race. One thing I would not have cared to eat was
the island pork, which seems fed, chiefly, on fish and
lobster offal. I met along the shore several droves of pigs
luxuriating on this repulsive- offal, which must necessarily
give to their flesh a very undesirable flavour. The
walrus, common about the year 1800, according to Mr.
Cory, is now a thing of the past, though its tusks and bones
are often exhumed ; but the lobster, the ubiquitous lobster
is StUl a potent factor in the wealth of these islands, though

— 206 —
he has lost the magic power, he was supposed to wield of
yore, over " ladies fair " who love sardines.
THE LAY OF THE LOBSTER.
" It happened when the sun was high,
And. the wind blew fresh and free.
When the bottle-nosed whale was lunching on shale,
And washing it down with the sea.
It was close by the side of a lonely stream
That foamed on a desolate strand ;
A lady fair was sitting there,
And a box was in her hand.
She raised the box, and she gave it a shake.
And she smiled when she found it was full ;
Then she played on a fife with the edge of a knife.
Keeping time with a three-foot rule.
And this was the song that the lady sang :
" Just open this box for me ;
I love sardines when they're boiled with beans,
And mixed with the sands of the sea."
The sound of her voice was sweet to hear,
And was wafted o'er many a wave.
Till at last it fell, like a siren's spell.
On the heart of a merman brave.
He listened awhile, then smiled a smile
As he looked at himself in the glass.
Then dressed with speed in an ulster of weed
And trousers of tangle and grass.
He went to the place where the lady sang.
And he heard what she'd got to say ;
She told him the dish was sardine fish.
But he bolted clean away.

— 207 — *
For his brother-in-law was of kin to a skate ;
The skate was of high degree ;
And every one knew it was perfectly true
Sardines were the cousins of he,
With a terrible frown he dived straight down
To the depths of the ocean green ;
His trousers he tore and his ulster, and swore
They would never again be seen.
But the lady sang as she sang before :
" Just open this box for me.
For I love sardines when they're boiled with beans.
And mixed with the salids of the sea."
She sang this same, but as nobody came.
She thought it as well to try.
So down on the rocks she hammered the box.
And then she began to cry :
" Oh, I love sardines when they're boiled with beans,
And mixed with the sands of the sea.
I am dying for some. Will nobody come
And open this box for me ? "
Now all alone, close under a stone,
A lobster was lying asleep ;
At the sound of her cries he rubbed his eyes,
And picked himself up for a peep.
He could open the box without any knocks,
So he went and he offered his claw.
At the sight of the beast her misery ceased.
And she asked for a shake of his paw.
He gave her his claw on the desolate strand,
But he never would let her go.
" My lady," says he, " you'll come with me
To the regions down below."

' —208 —
He took the lady straight away
To the depths of the ocean blue,
Aud whatever became of that beautiful dame
There is nobody ever knew.
There are some folks say on the 1st of May
She is seen with a glass in her hand.
And that she was sold to the merman bold
Who came to the desolate strand.
But every night when the moon shines bright
The ghost of the lady is seen.
All dressed at her need in an ulster of weed,
And her hair is a bright sea-green.
CW.-D. Scott-Monorleff, In Harper's Magazine.)

QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN.

XII
Mistassini Falls — The Birds and Fishes met at Lake
St. John, Saguenay District, Province of Quebec.
Having had occasion to visit that fertile, and pictures.
que vaUey of Lake St, John, I availed myself of the
opportunity to note, en passant, the birds and fishes of the
place. In a short sojourn of one week, what especially struck
me was the presence of several well-known members of the
feathered race still in full song, whilst, around Quebec, they
had been silent for several weeks : here follow the naraes of
those I actually heard or saw, as copied from my diary.
" De Chene Hotel, St Cyriac, township of Kenogami, 2nd
August, 1883, 5.30 a. m. — Weaiher overcast, threatening
rain this morning ; a perfect concert of birds round me.
Robins. — A number singing in the trees surrounding
the hotel.
Hermit thrush. — There goes the metallic tinkle, tinkle
of my melodious friends ; three or four answering one
another, from the fir, and spruce trees, and calcined trunks
of trees, spared by the great fire of 1870, and standing soli
tary sentinels on the mountain side.
Wilson's thrush. — Two or three, carolling merrily in the
neighborhood, attracted probably by the limpid trout stream,
which my companion is preparing to whip for speckled
beauties. Song-sparrow. — Once heard. The top of the morning to
you, friend Rossignol 1 Does your wife know you are out ?

— 210 —
StJMMER YELLOW BLRD. — A pair or two flitting round
Canadian goldfinch. — Four or five seen perched on a
fence rail.
White-throated sparrow. — How shrill his whistle I Are
you, welcome harbinger of summer, a lineal descendant
of the Sifleux, the Whistler, which the author of " Wake-
Robin, &c.," John Burroughs, tells us he heard, in these
very regions long ago, when he was visiting Lake Jacques-
Cartier." (i)
Vesper sparrow. — A few bars of his weird melody
wafted by the wind to me from an adjoining pasture. Why
I might almost imagine myself, on the St. Louis Road, at
Quebec, homeward driving past that broad pasturage at
Marchmont — so dear in May to the Vesper Sparrow — " the
poet of the plain," as Burroughs styles him.
Golden-winged woodpecker. — " Le Pivart crie — signe
¦de pluie"—"\h.e Rain Bird — shrieks, a true sign of coming
rain," says ray white haired landlord, old Dechesne. The
gaudily dressed Woodpecker, a true ant-eater, known to the
French peasant under no other narae than " Pivart," did
liot, as he occasionaUy does, prophesy in vain. Rain we
soon had, in buckets full.
3rd August, 1883, under the hospitable roof of the
log-house built by the woodmen of Lake St. John, on Alma
Island, near the Grande Dkharge ; we found few birds here.
Chicadee. — I heard far off, in the dense woods, the
quaint voice of the Canadian Chicadee saying " Qui es-tu " ?
Who are you ?
Red-throated diver. — Whilst our bark canoe is swiftly
gliding over the rippling lake under the experienced hands
of that prince of fishers, Henry Dery, and his trusty friend
Gaudreault, of GrandMont, we had ample time to make a
^1) Locusts and Wild Honey, J. Burroughs, page 223.

— 211 —
hasty survey of the innumerable wooded isles, which
dot the lower end of the lake not far from its main dis
charge. On rounding a sandy grass-fringed point, we
tumbled unexpectedly on a squad of these graceful denizeni
of the Uquid element— the Red-throated Diver — more than
twenty, we thought. " Twenty-four young ones and the
old mother " chimed in our genial old friend Ddry. " I
know them well, and have counted them, what is more ;
having met them on two recent occasions at this spot, when
paddling to Alnja Island. See the care the old Dame
takes of her chicks — two families, I should say, obeying
one mother. Does it not look like a pic-nic of school girls
out on a frisk with the demure school mistress ? "
We assented.
Wild pigeons. — During my stay, I saw but four. Previous
to the great bush fire of 1870 the northern raountain ranges
were infested with them. Did this dire conflagration, which
swept over so many hundreds of mUes of this formerly well-
wooded district, destroy all the bushes whose berries they
so eagerly devour ? One thing certain : the Passenger
Pigeon, formerly so abundant in this Province, in fact so
numerous even in the immediate vicinity of Quebec, that
large flocks have been known to light on the Glacis and
Ramparts of the city, have quite deserted us. A straggler,
perchance, an unmated solitary cock bird, raay occasionally
be met ; at most, a few birds, where thousands congregated
twenty-five years ago.
Hawks. — At Rivihe au Sable, near Chicoutimi, a dimi
nutive hawk flew over a field ; the distance was too great
to make out whether he was a sparrow or pigeon hawk. He
turned, and lit on the short bough of an isolated, calcined
trunk, standing in a field. The tree had a cavity in il, and
he seemed in the act of feeding his young, his nest being
probably there.
Crows. — A great scarcity of crows noticeable.

— 212 —
Great northern diver — Le Huart ; this stalely aquatic
bird is common on the Lake. Breeds doubtless on some
of the secluded islands, strewn all round.
Canada goose. — " Large flocks seen last faU. Very nume
rous forraerly." Has Mr. Price's steamer on the Lake scared
them ?
Brant. — " Comraon in autumn ; " we saw none.
Ducks — "The Scoter, and Black, and Gray Duck common
in the fall." We saw some ducks in the distance, but could
not identify them. Our canoemen, both rfged men, told us
of the quantities of ducks and geese which formerly sought
the retired islands of Lakes St John and Mistassini as nesting
places. The influx of settlers, the steamer's whistle, the
persistent inroads of French Canadian Chasseurs have driven
thera further north. nSHES.
Lake St John is renowned for ils land-locked salmon —
wa-na-nish is the popular name. A Quebec angler would
go fairly wild over the excitement, experienced by a couple
of hours' flyfishing in the pools ofthe Grande Decharge —
at the, eastern oudet of the lake. August seems to be the
month selected by this noble fish — the wa na-nish— to
ascend the roaring rapids of the lake, when the adjoining
pools are alive with them. There are three pools at
the great discharge. The remous de la Vache Caille — so
styled on account of its crearay colour, and consisting of
the froth which floats in clots on its dark tide — is the best
fishing spot of the whole lake. I have since learned that
the riparian rights and fishing privilege had been acquired
frora the Governraent by Wm. Griffith, Esq., of Quebec ; if
so, no doubt, Mr. Griffith wUl appoint a guardian and pro
hibit aU seine fishing. This done, that pool will be very
valuable. Another celebrated remou or pool, is that known
as Remou h Caron.

— 213 —
The fish attain up to 5 lbs. — though some have been
known to weigh as many as 9 lbs. An adult wa-na-nish is
extremely vigorous and when held by good tackle, the sport
he affords is rare. Once hooked, then, a rush — then, six to
eight lively jumps three feet and more clean out of the
water ; then a rush again. Il lakes about ten minutes to
kiU your fish and land him. .Nothing is more exhilarating
than the sight the pool presents on a favorable August day.
The wa-na-nish comes up to the surface, showing among;
the froth, the curve of their back, and slightly-forked tail
above water, a tiny porpoise, you would say. They take
the fly three inches or so under water, and dark flies seem
to please their fancy more than very bright ones. When the
voracious big pike that infest the lake are aU destroyed, the
wa-na-nish are likely to increase in number very much. Lake
St. John contains also Dore, Whitefish — which the natives.
call ouiteouch suckers and a coarse fish known as Cat
fish, with an enormous head. They attain to a great size r
three feet and raore in length. There seems to be few trout
in the lake. Have those ogres, the pike, gobbled them up ?
ascent of the first steamer to the mistassini falls.
Lake St. John, 17th May, 1889.
I readily accepted the invitation of Mr. B.-A. Scott,
manager of the Roberval Lumber Co. to form ' one of a
small party desirous of exploring, in the Peribonka, the
faUs of the Mistassini river, 20 miles from its raouth ; a feat
never yet performed by steara. The Peribonka, launched
last autumn, was subsidized by the provincial government
for the promotion of the colonization of the Lake St. John
district, by facilitating communication between the different
settlements on the lake. It is a handsome and powerful
craft — 97 feet keel — built expressly to draw, but litlle water
14

— 214 —
— so as to adapt herself — to the shallow waters on the lake
shore — though there is a depth of loo feet in the centre.
The present time seeraed particularly suitable for
exploring the nuraerous tributaries of Lake St John, as
the spring-overflow of the great lake, eighteen or twenty
feet, was at ils height The river Mistassini is two miles
broad at its mouth, tolerably deep in som? parts, 300
miles long and dotted all through with innumerable, beau
tifully wooded isles. Its banks are wild and unsettled,
except a straggling thatch-covered house, here and there,
about eleven miles from its entrance. Ths Peribonka
made the ascent to this unexplored region in charge of
an experienced old woodsman, a special pilot for the
occasion, amidst sunshine and rain accompanied by very
vivid Ughtning and thunder. The little boat would rush
through a fog bank, slacken off speed or stop, just as the
soundings and fog permitted, always under perfect command.
At 9 P. M., the fog having increased, it was judged
¦prudent to anchor forthe night The stream being deep
vwith a bold shore, the Peribonka was moored in front of a
woodman's hut, close to the bank. Our pirty landed with-
'Out any trouble : the whistle was blown ; we listened in
a-apt silence to the tremendous echo leaping from one range
to the next, — no steamer had ever ventured there before.
The woodman and trapper, monsieur Lalancelte, jr., sur
rounded by his numerous progeny, rushed lo the beach and
discharged his fowling-piece, inviting us to visit his modest
Toof. The ceremony of shaking hands over, Madame Lalan
celte gave us most graphic sketches of her forest life —free
from the scandal bustle and noise of the outer world.
Few white men, in summer, ascend the Mistassini in their
canoes ; in winter, the lumbermen use her house as a
«amp. She told us of an eccentric professor and two
¦¦students camping on the shore last summer, professer Julian
C Jaynes, of Hartford, who, she vowed, lived on roasted

— 215 —
frogs and broiled crows, after skinning them ; she added an
anecdote about a bull-frog, which much amused us.
Professor Jaynes, according to madame Lalancelte must
have been no ordinary angler; he is statedto have caught,
at the foot of the Mistassini falls so many 'Wa-n^-nish, that
his creel full, he deemed right to return the rest to their
native element.
Monsieur Lalancelte, related with gusto, his various
experiences as a trapper of otter, minx, even of beaver,
though beaver were getting, he said, very scarce. No red
deer, and few caribou on the shores of the wild Mistassini,
but occasionally, bears on the hills in the blueberry
season. During his whole career, he had, he said, trapped
in a steel trap set for otter, but one carcajou (wolvereen) —
but then he was a woppsr ! — as fierce, with his lacerated
paw, as ten thousand wild cats ! !
— " Any round here " inquired my sporting friend ?
I do not think so, replied the disciple of fur, fin and
feather. This exciting camp gossip went buzzing through our brain,
the live long night, when we retired to our improvised bunks,
over one of which floated the Union Jack lo scare away the
musquitoes, probably ; no other noise, in the pitchy dark
ness, but the breck I breck I of professor Jaynes friends, the
frogs. About midnight, my sporting friend awoke, sprung up,
vowing, hs had heard the howls of a carcajou, close to where
the Peribonka was moored : the door of Madame Lalancette's
hut opened, to let in her disconsolate pet — the house dog.
Prince, forgotten in the damp fog outside, whining ; then, all
was again wrapped in silence.
At break of day, the Peribonka got up steam ; with the
loveliest sunshine, we steamed up to ths mysterious falls
which few white men have seen ; none certainly,from the deck

— 216 -
of a steamer : the patches of froth and soon after, the roar
of the falls hidden by three intervening islands were noted.
These islands girt with rocks, create strong and dangerous
rapids. The Peribonka turned back : on a council of the
authorities, it was decided lo try the rapids again. We shot
past the two last islands and came in full view of the roar
ing cauldron ; but no further could we go, and the descent
was made at race-horse speed. An old trapper fired a gun
in response to our salute, the steamer's whistle ; the effects
in these wild woods were loud, grand, indescribable. One
incident much araused us : the terror of the sheep and of
some cows, on hearing the boat's whistle ; they retreated
at a gallop up a hill — concealing themselves in a thicket.
Such my pleasant experience of a visit, the first ever
made by a steamer, to the falls of the Mistassini, where
the celebrated French savant, Andre Michaux, was botonis-
ing, on the 22nd August, 1792.
Doubtless if the water does not get too low, from the
suraraer drought, the Peribonka, wUl more than once, be
put in commission to explore this inaccessible fastness of
the north.

THE
CRUISE OF THE YATCH HIRONDELLE
IN isse
DRAMATIS PERSONS

The commodore of the vatch club  J. U. Gregory.
Mac of the isles  Sagaman, Sportsman, Navigator.
Jonathan Oldbuck  Antiquary, Naturalist, Discoverer.
Carleton  .^  Sailing Master — Old Mariner.
Jean Lavoie . . Steward, Chef-de-cuisine, Weather-prophet
Napoleon Maturin  Able-bodied seaman.
Fliberty-Gibbet  ,, Cabin Boy.
Fox  A Sillery Collie.

-Scene : — Sometimes on board the HIRQNDELLE
Sometimes on Shore.

VIVE LA CANADIENNE!

TRE CRUISE OF THE HIRONDELLL

XIII
The seal Islands — Their game — Their Legends.
" On the bosom of a river
Where the sun unloosed his quiver
Sailed a vessel light and free
Morning dew-drops' hung like Manna
On the bright folds of her banner
And the zephirs rose to^an her
Softly to the radiant sea."
Basin of St. Thomas, 10th sept,, 188ff.
" Just ease her off a point or two. Commodore, don't hug
these muddy flats too close ; they run out nearly three miles
from the raouth ofthe Basin ; I have known thera well from
my youth. Now, I think we can sail clear of this land-locked
harbor. Do you see that group of while dwellings ? There, in
1837-8, used lo be one of the strongholds of the Patriots of
1837 ; and in 1759 the ruthless invader of the soil left his
indeUble mark on these Canadian homes. " Such the words
of Jonathan Oldbuck, more generally known as the Anti
quary, the respected guest ofthe Commodore of the Quebec
Yacht Club.
— " Tr^s bien. Monsieur V Antiquaire" replied the burly
Commodore. " I always thought St Thomas, or Monlraagny, ,
as it is now styled, was rich in historic lore. Dame Nature
seems also lo have played some strange pranks in scooping
out these channels amid the shoals, and in forming this
sheltered basin at the foot of the foaming water-faU oi La
Rivilre du Sud. Might not the removal of these boulders.
in the basin, and a little judicious dredging of the mud, make
this into a snug harbor for the coasting craft, and even foreign
yessels ; that is, provided the neap tides of suraraer did not
choke the harbor with mud ? "

— 2-20 —
— " Do you see, " said the Antiquary, " those eel-fishery
stakes, nearly covered by the tide, a mUe from the shore ?
There, or close by, stood, at the end of the last century and
even later, the Roman Catholic parish church. The river
had eaten away the clay soil which clothed the whole area
occupied by the old church, and ils cemetery, and even
beyond. A new church site becarae necessary. In 1822, the
present temple of worship was buUt two railes inland.
The harbor has also undergone a great change within a
hundred years ; tradition tells how ils entrance was once
spanned by a single plank ; the shores are now more than a
mile apart. "
— " Carleton,'' said the Commodore, "shake out two reefs
of the mainsail, we have yet plenty of flood, and with such
a spanking breeze on our beam, we can yet make Cap
Brule, before the turn of the tide. I shall show our friends
as we sail past, the spot of the memorable shipwreck of the
French man-of-war L' Elephant, stranded there in September,
1729. We will, once there, drop down with the ebb under
the dizzy heights of Cape Tourmente, so named by Cham
plain, and where I have shot in December more than one
woodland caribou. They come every fall from the interior,
pick their way through some of the pine-clad ravines of the
sombre cape, to this abrupt shore below, lap up the salt lick,
and return. I recollect shooting one close to the cross
you may have noticed on the summit""
This landmark, erected in 1869 and since enlarged, seems
from the river like a white speck amid the blooming shrub
bery. The party looked out, as the yacht sailed past for
some ofthe ravines in the neighborhood ofthe three dimi
nutive lighthouses perched on the rock high above the St.
' I^awrence ; a few fine old pine trees grow there, which,
with the lofty Cap Tourmente, form 'part of the vast
seigniory, ten leagues in front, of the Quebec Seminary.
More than two centuries back Bishop Laval selected
the Petit Cap oi St. Joachim — which our excursionists can
see to the west — and the reedy meadows, and fertile grain-
fields at the base for a settlement, where he, in verity,
estabUshed in Canada the first model farra. Through a gap

— 221 —
in the waving tree-tops, they also caught a glimpse of the
Chateau BeUevue, where, under the shade of green groves,
the Laval University and Quebec Seminary professors each
year spend their well-merited August vacation. This is
assuredly one of the most picturesque spots in all Canada.
During the occupation of the country by tha French, inward-
bound' ships used to follow the north shore of the St Law
rence as far up as Cape Tourmente, probably because the
south channel was narrow ; and then cross over, past Pointe
Argentenay, on the eastern end of the island of Orleans, in
the direction of the Point of St. Michel, on the south shore,
thereby avoiding Beaujeu's bank, and the dangerous St.
Thomas shoals ; this channel is now used thiefly by the
Richelieu Co. line of steamers, conveying tourists to Murray
Bay and the Saguenay.
" Bout ship, let go and haul," sung out the Commodore,
and the HirondeUe, flapping her wMte wings in the breeze,
turned frora the frowning cape, shot ahead like a sea swal
low, and pointed for a low ledge of rocky islands, after pass
ing the Battures Hates, a famous resort for Canada geese,
and snow geese, leased by the Quebec Seminary to a
Quebec sportsman. The rocky isles, on which the surf
rippled, were barely vi-ible in the distance.
" There, gentlemen, " exclaimed Mr. Oldbuck, " there
are the famous Seal Rocks."
Forty-five miles below Quebec, about mid-channel in our
noble river, which even here expands in breadth, to twenty-
one miles, there rises a bleak, uninhabited island, at low tide,
five miles long, by one mile broad. From time imraemorial,
it has been known to the English as Seal Rocks or Seal
Islands ; to the French, as Battures-aux-Loups-Marins.
Doubtless the seals, for ages as plentiful here as the walrus
were on the Magdalen Islands, up to the middle of the last
century, have now found a safer and more secluded habitat
in the far North, though each winter they stiU venture to
the ice-bound coast. Long after the seals had bidden adieu

— 222 —
to these solitary Canadian downs, the native sportsmen put
in an appearance. For many years past, with each autumn,
and often in advance, thegunners founej their way to this
loved sporting ground. A few years ago a club of sports
men of St-Jean-Port-Joly, purchased this garae resort from
the Provincial Government (i) The August high tide,
exceptionally high, reduces the seals' old haunts to about
one raile in length and seven acres in width. At the north
west point there exists a diminutive mound or knoll, on
which are perceptible, among the few olher signs of vegeta
tion, a grove of spruce, fir and wild cherry trees. Conspi
cuous to this day is the ancient apple tree, of which Mr. De
Gaspe, in his " Memoirs," records that " one half bears
sweet, and the other half, sour apples ; lhoui;h there exists
no trace or record of the tree having ever been grafted."
This shadowy relic ofthe past, stiU endures, and yielded fruit
this very suraraer. Thereto hangs a tale of woe, with which
doubtless the Antiquary wUl favor us.
The other porlion of Seal Rocks, bare at high water
(though there is an instance on record of a parly of sports
men having once lo seek asylum in their boat lo escape
the rising flood), trending southward, is very properly
styled the Sportsmen's Refuge. A channel running north-east,,
and south-west separates the shore, where stands the refuge,
or shooting box, from the mound or knoll, known as Chati-
gny's Knoll, the channel fordable at low tide only.
It is well caUed the Sportsmen's Refuge, and here only,
in a rude hut erected by them, they find shelter against the
easterly gales, which sweep over this forlorn shore wilk
great violence.

(IJ Seal Islands and Shoals, in River St. Lawrence, opposite Eiver
Trois-Saumons, were rented on April 18, 1854, to O.-B, i^urnier, of
Islet, at an annual rent of $50,40, rent redeemable by payment of
capital at the rate of 6 per cent, to Government of Province of
Quebec.

— 223 —
Animal and vegetable life is indeed scanty on this soli
tary down. Few if any singing birds there ; the minstrels of
the grove seek the companionship of man. What use, indeed,,
would be to them the sweet gift of song, without an appre
ciative audience ? Each summer, however, a colony of noisy
crows, detached from, and not missed by the black hordes
frequenting the adjacent group of islands, and whose head
quarters are Ile-aux-Corneilles, Crow Island, a few miles to
the west — claim possession, doubtless by prescription, of
the fir and spruce grove overshadowing Chatigny's Knoll.
Here, some nest. OccasionaUy may be heard overhead and.
seen, a hoarse old raven, winging his heavy, laborious flight
toward the bleak ledges of Cape Tourmente, to the north
west, or mayhap, further north, to his callow brood araong
the cloud-capped peaks of Passe-des-Monts, in the Saguenay
district. His funereal, unearthly kra-ac, kra-ac, seeras in
keeping with the disraal aspect of the land. In September,
a silvery gull occasionally lights in the mellow sunshine
amid the eddies round the shoals, in quest of smelts. Save
the report of a gun, or the whistle of a passing steamer, no
sound invades this lone, arid beach, quite extensive at low
tide. — " But," asked the Commodore, " why did not the sports
men buUd on Chatigny's Knoll, so well protected by trees ? "
" For divers cogent and powerful reasons," retorted Mac
of the Isles, " which we will allow the Antiquary to expound
to us ? But before we hear him, let me speak ofthe garae.
At Seal Rocks, as elsewhere in the Province of Quebec, the
law tolerates no spring or summer shooting. The island is
especially famous for ducks, and the ist of September is the
time fixed by the Legislature for the opening of the season.
These downs seera to particularly attract the old and young
birds, returning at the beginning of September from their
breeding grounds at Hudson's Bay, in several islands on the
Labrador coast and some of the solitary isles of Lakes St
John and Mistassini. Tired out by storms they congregate
^in vast flocks on the reedy, muddy, and sandy beaches of
'Seal Rocks at low tide. At present the locality supplies the

— 224 —
Quebec markets with quantities of game, such as Canada
geese, a few snow geese, black and gray ducks, brant, blue
and green winged teal, snipe, godwits, golden plover, ring
plover, and sraaller beach birds. The minor game are
ushered in with the high tide of August, about the 21st of
that month, and precede duck shooting. The season lasts
about three months, August, September and October. Mr.
Toussaint, of Quebec, proprietor of the island for the last
eleven years, intrusts the care of his preserve to a game
keeper who lands at Seal Rocks about Aug. i, and leaves
about beginning of November."
You, seignior Mac of the Isles, said the Commodore,
you must know something of this famous island.
— The litlle I may know, you are welcome to, retorted
Mac. When a young man, said the island chieftain, one
August afternoon, whilst returning to Labrador, in my yawl
The Outarde, I was skirting the green beaches of Pointe-a-
la-Prairie, on Coudres Island. Our litde craft close-hauled,
with a fresh breeze of north wind, was rapidly nearing Seal
Rocks. " The sky has an ugly look," remarked my sailing master
— by name Carleton — a grim, old salt who prided hiraself
on being weather wise. Had we not better seek a good
anchorage for the night, and take advantage of the first flood
to-raorrow raorning. Should this breeze hold out, the Napo
leon wharf in the Quebec harbor will see us early."
Carleton, though naturally a taciturn, reserved man, had
a knack of getting garrulous, whenever a magnum of
Mountain Dew, or prime old Jamaica warmed the cockles of
his old heart : that day, being the anniversary of his wed
ding, he had joyfully drank long life to his eara sposa — a
demure and elderly personage, residing on an Island close,
by. I assented and then, that being my first voyage to
Labrador, I enquired from him what might be the name of
the low isle we were approaching.

— 225 —
— Seal Rocks, he replied : I can recollect it as far back
as 1807 — when I passed' it on a trip to England, not of my
own choice. I was one of Simon Latresse's party, on the
13th September of that year : we had been attending a baU
in St. John suburbs, at Quebec : the Press gang followed
us : we ran ; poor Latresse was shot, and I was kidnapped
and sent on board of H. M. irignte Blossom, Ca.pt. Pickett :(i)
I was an active cabin boy in those days and soon got to
swaUow my hard lack, pork, and gill of Jamaica, as merrily
as any other jack tar on board.
— It was then, I presume, I added, you got your English
historical narne of " Carleton " ?
— No, Sir, replied my nautical friend ; no, that name
had been bequeathed to me by my father lo perpetuate,
he s;tid, the extreme kindness shown to him by one of the
greatest men England ever senl out to govern Canada —
Sir Guy Carleton, afterw.irds Lord Dorchester.
Sir Guy Carleton had been instrumental in saving the
life of my beloved father, whom he found in 1798, adrift in
a dory, opposite Deadman's Island, one of the Magdalen
Group, where my faiher had gone in queit of lobsters, and
been blown out to sea. Capt. Coffi 1, at the special request
of Lord Dorchester, had senl one of his boats, in a heavy surf
and brought back my father, whom His ExceUency styled
his waif Proud I ever was of bearing the name of such a
good man, and when I risked my own life to save that of
others, opposite to St. Thomas, and received from Sir E,-P.
Tachd, a medal in consequence, I used to think of dear
Governor Carleton's kindness toward my own father.
— Well, said I, shall we try and fetch the anchorage of
Pointe-aux-Pins, at Crane Island, or else anchor under the

(1) N. B. — The details of the melancholy incident appear in ie
GamadKen, a Quebec news sheet founded in 1 806 and still in exis
tence.

— 226 —
3ee oi Seal Rocks — spread our tent, under Chatigny's tree —
make a fire, cook our repast, and then sleep like princes in
this snug arbour. Never shall I forget the look of dismay,
Tvhich spread over Carleton's withered, pock-marked face ;
" not for a kingdom, said he in a hollow voice. "
— Why not ? I retorted.
There are five generations of your faraily, whom I
have, at different times, conveyed in my yawl from their
Island Home to Quebec, or to St. Thomas — I hope I may
yet be long spared (i) to attend on thera ; but I must
leave you to your fate, should you persist in your present
idea of sleeping on Chatigny's Knoll.
Why, the place is haunted ? — 'tis well known — yes,
haunted !
The tirae was, long ago, when a devil-may-care Gasp6
fisherraan, I also, laughed at the superstitious awe in which
this knoll was held on the coast.
One faU, I had saUed from Percd for home in October,
in a fishing barge with a comrade. On All Saints Day, we
reached Isle-aux-Coudres and landed there. I was desirous
•of attending High Mass, on the spot where Jacques Cartier
had had celebrated the first mass said in Canada, on 7lh
September, 1535. The sermon was all about the dead. My
companion a neer-do-weil, managed after mass, to purchase
from a trading schooner, a botde of " old Jamaica " en
esprit, lo use his expresison. He swallowed a portion, and
took the remainder on board ; we anchored that night at
Seal Rocks : he landed, saying he defied all the evU spirits
of the place, and would sleep at Chatigny's Knoll. I
remained on board, and was reposing quietly under the main-
saU, which served as an improvised tent when, about mid
night, I was awoke by the loud cries of my comrade on
(1) This nonagenarian sea-dog expired in March 1889, at Crane
Jsland,

— 227 —
tshore, he begged lo be taken on board, vowed that the place
was infested with revenants, spirits. In vain I pleaded the
difficulty of landing in the dark, and begged of him to wait
until morning. The voices he fancied he had heard, were I
added, the cries of young seals or of loons, both of which
at times resemble much human voices, and the groans
were caused doubtless by the grating of the trunks of trees
against one another, under the action of the wind.
In fact, he did not even wait until the boat had touched
the shore but waded out in the surf Once on board, he
crossed himself devoutly and vowed that no, never would
he put his foot on Seal Rocks : above all, never would he
dare sleep there, on the eve of All souls Day. I firmly believe
that the powerful serraon about the dead he had heard
at Isle aux Coudres, the day previous, had worked on his
brain during the still hours of night — possibly also, his
iraaginadon healed by the potent fumes of the "Jama'ique
en esprit " had caused him to mistake for the wails of the
¦departed, the discordant cries of young seals, and of the
water fowl, which swarm round the island, mingled with
the moaning of the night wind among the trees : but, he
insisted that he had communed with the revenants or
spirits of the dead, let loose, as is populariy beUeved, at
mid-night on the eve of All souls Day, their annual festival.
Carleton's long yarn was here interrupted by the lively
voice of the commodore.
— Come, Seignior antiquary, said he, let us have the his
tory of the remarkable Knoll.
THS story of chatigny's knoll.
— Gentlemen, replied Jonathan Oldbuck, you shaU have
the dismal tale, as my old friend DeGaspd, narrated it to me ;
— mind it is not a Legend. " Long before I was born, said
DeGasp^, two young men — friends from their youth — lived

_ 228 —
in the same parish on the south shore, opposite to Seal
Rocks, near neighbors. Rarely could one have met two
beings, of dispositions so unlike, and stiU friends. One,
named Pierre Jean, was as repulsive, physically, as he was
moraUy; ataU, ill-favored individual, swarthy like an Indian ;
his raother was a squaw, he was possessed of tremendous
bodily strength, which he was proud of exhibiting. His
rude dialect, or ra.thei patois pointed him out as an Acadian,
by birth : a blank his mind seemed to be. His chum,
Chatigny, was ' a handsome, fair-skinned youth of middle
height, with soft, expressive eyes. Ever kind and obliging,
he had won all hearts ; whilst his comrade was detested
on every side and righdy so ; else how should his pretended
friendship for Chatigny turn, all at once, into implacable
hatred. One Sunday, after vespers, Pierre Jean, happening
to raeet his friend, said to hira in his brokeri dialect, with a
sarcastic sraile : " Chatigny, if you, are a man, return me
this rock which I shall hurl at you, and suiting the deed to
the word, he threw an immense stone towards his friend,
who had retreated about fifteen feel to be out of the reach
of the deadly missile.
The rock fell a few inches in front of Chatigny, who
stooping seized hold of the boulder, and threw it with such
force that il lodged, close lo Pierre Jean's feet The specta
tors were astounded : none had ever suspected that Chatigny
was endowed with such superhuman strength.
Pierre Jean, humbled, concealed his wounded pride,
even compUraented his friend on his rauscle, but, it was
remarked that a gloomy scowl contracted his brow.
Soon after, the two churas, apparently as ^iendly as ever,
started for a hunting excursion to Seal Rocks, but strange
to say, one only returned in the sail boat in which they had
crossed over, Pierre Jean. It is not stated how he accounted
for the dis-appearance of Chatigny : a casual remark.

— 229 —
uttered by him after his return created a dark surmise as to
his comrade's fate.
Once, whilst taking his evening meal, he remarked " If
Chatigny had a plate of this soup to night, he would relish
it exceedingly ! "
These words spoken with a sarcastic air, coupled with the
unaccountable absence of Chatigny, induced the distressed
relatives of the latter to cross over to Seal Rocks, in search
of him ; there, awaited them a melancholy spectacle. Cha
tigny, lay under the shade ofa spruce tree, nearly dead. He
was made to swallow a few drops of cordial, when he
seemed to rally enough to speak and said : " If Pierre Jean
had heard my moans of anguish, he never would have had
the inhuraanity to aUow the friend of his chUdhood to die
of hunger. Great God 1 what were my feelings of despair,
when on returning from shooting, I found that he alone
had dragged over to the water, the boat, which his efforts, and
mine combined, had scarcely sufficed to draw on the shore.
I then took in at once his cruel scheme. But tell him, I
forgive him," and Chatigny expired.
Such is the outline of the weird narrative erabodied in
the DeGasp^'s Meraoirs anent Chatigny's Knoll.

SOREL.
Its Game. — Lieut.- Governor Letellier.
The yacht was careening over under a stiff westerly breeze ;
the flood tide had just turned ; an experienced old yachts
man, Mac of the Isles, held the helm. The low rocky
shores of Seal Rock were fast disappearing as the Hiron
delle, close reefed, plowed merrily through the surf in the
15

— 230 —
direction of St-Jean-Port-Joly Church. To the noith a flock
of silvery gulls were disporting themselves in the shaUows,
while the descending orb of day shed his mUd radiance on
the leaping waters.
— " Pass around the Garcias, " sung out the Commodore
to the cabin boy. " Let us have a glorious smoke before cast
ing anchor at McPherson's House, Crane Island."
— " We have plenty of time before reaching there, replied
the Antiquary, " suppose, most illustrious Commodore, you
give us one of your joUy hunting stories, an account of the
grande chasse d'automne yo\i made with the lamented Luc
LeteUier at Sorel."
— " Well, gentleraen, be it so, light your cigars and give
rae your attention.
" The faraed hunting resorts, " said the Commodore,
^' about fifty-five railes lower than Montreal, on the St. Law
rence, and one hundred and twenty-five above Quebec, are
known to Quebec and Montreal chasseurs as the lies de
Sorel. These islands and surroundings are the favorite
feeding grounds ofthe snipe and various kinds of plover,
curlew,, woodcock and other beach birds, as well as several
varieties of ducks, the black or dubky duck, redhead, divers
or fall ducks, blue and green-winged teal, in fact all the
aquatic birds frequenting the fresh waters of the Province
of Quebec. Sorel Islands consist of He du Moine, He des
Barques, lie k la Pierre, He de Grace, He du Pads, He St
Jean, He aux Grucs, He aux Ours and many others less
noted, the Commune de Yamaska, la Baie du Febvre, les
Bales de Maskinong^ el de Yamachiche, with the miles of
reeds which skirt Lake St Peter, on both shores, as well as
the islands, some of which are covered with soft maples and
other deciduous trees, whUe the others are simply reedy
islands, when the water is very low, and at other times com
pletely flooded. On the higher land.^, which are commons
•under the control of the muiiicipaUtie=, the farmers of the
vicinity allow their young cattle, horses and hogs to run
wUd. The latter, being much given to feed upon the bulb
of a variety of reeds, root them up, making bare patches,
which are capital feeding grounds for snipe. One, however,
needs a quick eye to mark a bird down, should he drop
into the high reeds or wild hay near by ; or the service of a

— 231 —
Ifirst-class retriever, else one is sure to lose many more birds
than are brought to bag.
" On the sandy point of some of these islands, such as
Pointe au Pdcaud or He au Sable, flocks of golden plover,
curlew or beach birds may be often found, and late in the
fall numbers of Canada geese on their journey to the south,
light and feed in the bays and even in the fields backs on
the higher lands. When the ice breaks up in the spring,
thousands of muskrats are slaughtered by the inhabitants.
Some have been known to kill in one season 200, with a
simple weapon — an iron spike fastened to a pole — to pry
the rodents out of their winter quarters, — disturbed by the
motion ofthe ice, lifted from its winter bed by the rush of
the waters during spring freshets.
" In October, 1866, I visited the Islands of Sorel,
accorapanied by Lieut Montgomery and Ensign Lane
of the Rifle Brigade, one of H. M.'s crack regiments,
then quartered in the favorite garrison town, Quebec.
Just twenty years later, one of the parly, now Lieut-Col.
Lane, on his return from British Columbia to Halifax,
where he is now stationed as railitary secretary to the Com
mander-in-Chief, Lord Alexander Russell, burst into my
sanctura where I was enjoying a quiet smoke, and related
to me his sporting adventures, since the capital sport he
and I, had enjoyed on that meraorable occasion when we
traraped through the marshes at Sorel, bagging one hun
dred and fifty snipe in two days to our three guns, and
bringing bark a champagne basket full of birds. We had
listened to the stories of the French Canadian guides anent
the marvellous bags of snipe, woodcock and duck got by the
late Colonel Alphonse De Salaberry, Judge Coursol, W.-H.
Kerr, Harry King, Fred. Austin and hosts of others who
flocked each season to these islands. Well do I remember
the snug quarters on one of these beautifully wooded spots,
for many years the favorite hunting box of Judge Coursol
and his friends, with its rows of nails aU around well under
the eaves of the roof, hanging from which could be seen
bunches of snipe, woodcock, duck and plover, placed
there in the shade and cool air for preservation, and my
own pleasant quarlers in a roora of the He au Raisin or He
.k la Pierre lighthouse.

— 232 —
" Of the old guides of those days one is slUl hale and
hearty and happy to lead a party to the haunts of game.
Maxirae Monjeau, of He du Moine, although now near his
70th year, covered with silvery locks, can yet handle a
paddle and bring down a duck when it comes to his decoys
in La Baie du Moine (opposite his litde shooting en bin
annually set up on the edge of the island, and where he
happily passes his days, having handed over to his sons, his
home, further west on the He du Moine). He continues
to enjoy the sports to which he is so devotedly attached.
Another, poor old Baptiste Martel, of La Baie du Febvre,
now fuUy eighty years of age, slill talks and dreams ofthe
day when he tracked the grizzly bear in the Rocky Moun
tains, where he spent twenty-five years of his earlier life in
the employ of the American Fur Company as a voyageur.
Upon his giving up this occupation, with his hard earned
savings, he purchased a home and a few acres of land near
his native village, and tried to settle down to the toils of a
sraall farmer's Ufe, but he could never thoroughly do so. He
would cheerfully drop the spade or hoe, and conduct the
sportsmen from Quebec or Montreal to the woodcock
coverts on the uplands, or snipe marshes of the renowned
Baie du Febvre. He is now very feeble. I was recently
told by a neighbor of his that last summer the poor old
man begged his son lo drive him to the old duck grounds
bordering, the lake that he might once more feast his eyes
on the beloved haunts of olher days. He was carefully
seated in a cart well filled with straw, and slowly driven
down 10 the lake shore, which cheered him up wonderfully.
He asked his son to stop the horse, and stretching out his
withered arm, pointed out the many spots so dear to his
memory, rapidly relating his exploits with the many gentle
men he had guided over the spot, and the big bags of game
they had shot. Feeling weak and tired the poor old chas
seur completely broke down; in sobbing words he bade
farewell to the loved spot, and was conveyed home, as he
said, to prepare himself for another world. Poor old Bap
tiste, how often have I followed him over the coverts and
what glorious sporting hours we have spent together !
" Of the other guides of twenty years ago, one was a
remarkable character called Chario Paul, a capital fellow
when not given too much spirits. He has now joined the
'great majority,' doubdess in better hunting ground&,gathered

— 233 —
to his fathers. Chario did not live lo the ripe old age of
Maxime or Baptiste, no doubt owing to his love for strong
-waters to which they where not so much addicted, and
evidently live the longer in consequence.
" Twenty years ago araong the islan-ls and bays below
Sorel, large and varied bags of game could be raade. On
more than one occasion a brother sportsman and myself
have been the fortunate possessors, after three or four days
of shooting, of as many as 40 to 50 ducks, 60 to 70 EngUsh
snipe, and 30 to 40 golden and other plover, and have come
home thoroughly revived in health and spirits.
" On one occasion, I had the honor of having the
lamented Hon. Luc Letellier de St. Just, then Lieutenant
Governor of the Province of Quebec, as my guest, our
quarlers being in the lighthouse at the east end of L'lle k
la Pierre. It was during a week's living in one sraall room
with this renowned politician, that one learned to love him
as few men have been loved by their own sex. On this
occasion, our bags of ducks numbered among us, namely :
the Governor, his Aide de-camp, Capt F.-E. Gauihier ; his
cousin, P.-B. Casgrain, M. P., and myself, from 40 to 50
ducks per day, and some snipe shot by rae. Il was on this
meraorable occasion that the Governor of the Province of
Quebec and companions narrowly escaped with their lives.
The popular and always obliging Captain LabeUe, then in
command of the steamer Quebec, plying between Montreal
and the city of Quebec, had offered to stop his boat and
take us off the island on his way down when we would
desire it. We despatched a messenger early one day to
Sorel, about seven railes off, lo notify him that we would be
all ready when he would pass that evening, and to request
him to please ston his boat to lake us on board. By some
means the message was not delivered to Captain LabeUe.
We, however, not knowing this, made our preparations, got
all our baggage, game, dogs and ourselves with the lighthouse-
keeper and one man, in a small boat, very much overloaded,
but as we only intended going out a short distance in the
shallow water to meet the steamer's boat which we expected
would draw too much water to come near the shore, we did
not fear any danger from swamping. We saw the steamer
about 9 o'clock at night coming full speed, evidently paying
no attention to us, when we actively swung a lighted lantern-
to and fro to draw attention.

— 234 —
" After the steamer had passed us the captain was ewidently-
informed of our attempts to stop her ; knowing the Gover
nor was of the party, he ordered the boat to stop and
reverse, the channel being too narrow to turn her. The
Governor, with his usual anxiety to give as little trouble as
possible when he was personally concerned, insisted upon
our attempting to reach the steamer by the man sculling
our boat out to her. This, against our advice, was done.
The current being very strong, and the huge wheels of the
steamer churning the water against it, created a strong eddy,
which drew us under the guards of the steamer. Being in
the forepart of the boat, I caught hold of one of the paddles
of the wheel and with difficulty hung on lo its slimy surface.
The Governor received a very severe blow on the head
from one of the stays which nearly stunned him, and we
greatly feared our b( at would swarap as it filled with water.
One raan completely lost his presence of mind and dropped
the oar overboard ; to the great strength and coolness of
the Governor we owed our lives. He called for a ladder.
This being let down, we rapidly mounted il just in time to
escape from being crushed by the great wheel, which was
immediately after set in motion ; fortunately the boat con
taining the lighthouse keeper and our luggage had drifted
away frora danger, and eventually was propelled ashore.
When we reached the cabin, we found we were much
bruised but not seriously hurt; our clothing was covered
with slime ; we presented a sad appearance. Means were
taken to give as litde publicity as possible to this incident
This was the last shooting expedition of Governor LeteUier
de St. Just. Some months after his health broke down ; he
soon after died, sincerely regretted by all who intimately
knew him. His gun, an excellent lo-bore, was sold by me
to Judge G.-P. Hawes, of New York, who, I believe, still
retains it,
" I fear I have digressed very much from the subject of
describing the shooting grounds of Sorel. I can only say
that occasionally fine bags of snipe, woodcock and ducks
are still made there, but I find that the number of the dis
ciples of the gun, since the past twenty years, have wonder
fuUy increased, as well among the amateur sportsmen who
shoot for the pleasure of an outing, as the pot-hunter who-
slaughters game night and day for the market.

— 235 —
" Snipe are such capricious birds that one can occasion
ally raake as large bags as formerly, but not so often. Wood
cock are very much more scarce. As lo black or dusky
ducks, mallard and wood ducks and teal, the great number
destroyed at night on their feeding grounds has been the
cause of driving these valuable birds to other and safer
quarters. The pot-hunter chooses a favorite spot araong the
reeds which extend out on the shallows for nearly a mile
from shore ; with a sickle he cuts off the heads ofthe reeds,
well under water, in a space large enongh to raake an open
water basin of about 30 to 40 yards diameter. On the edge
of this basin he plants a number of trees in front and on
each side of his logcanoe or dug-out, which he carefully
conceals, and then sets out in the most natural order from
ten to twelve live ducks fastened by a string, with a soft
leather loop to a leg and anchored with a stone or half a
brick in about 3 feel of water. These ducks, which are a cross
between a wild black duck and an equally black domestic
one, make perfect decoys, and call any passing birds to
them and to sure destruction.
" On both sides of Lake St. Peter such caches may be
found occupied by one or two pot hunters every three or
four acres apart, night after night, before and after the ist
of September, notwithstanding the game laws being strictly
against il. You may well iraagine such work has greatly
interfered with the pleasures of being quietly paddled
through the reeds and getting a true sportsman's shot at a
rising bird, for the ducks now shun those dangerous feed
ing grounds. This, however, only appUes to the species of
duck visiting the shallow waters near shore. The bliiebills
and other fall ducks, called by some, the divers, still fre
quent the lake in enormous numbers ; in fact I have seen
this fall as large flocks as I ever saw on the waters in Florida,
where, from their number covering such great space, they ¦
are called raft ducks.
" For the lover of shooting, possessed of a good dog for
snipe, and another for woodcock, and who can spare the
time, I know of no raore delightful spot lo carap on than
some of the beautiful islands of Sorel. The scenery is chatm-
ing ; the channels among the raany islands mo^t intricate
and interesting ; the different fresh-water fish, from the mas- .
kinong^ to the perch, plentiful ; and inteUigent and reliable
guides with canoes may be had al the usual charges. But-

— 236 —
he who possesses a light draft sail boat, with fair accommo
dation for a genial companion and self, and who can sail
away with his quarlers to new spots raade bare by the faU
ing of the waters, which often occurs to the extent of from
5 to Sin. in one night, especially if the weaiher is dry and
the wind blows strong from the west, such a one will find
snipe, when others on the old ground are wondering if
there are any birds left in the country. My experience
shows that snipe have a strong liking for new ground, and
he who can follow them or take advantage of being on sorae
new, known spot where the waters uncover, is sure to be
rewarded for his pains."
— " Coraracdore, we have enjoyed our sea voyage, shall I
say, enormously : one day's duck shooting on those rocky
isles would have capped the cliraax to our felicity — but Seal
Rocks are a game preserve. We hold no permit from
Monsieur Toussaint, the proprietor, to scatter death and
destruction among the winged denizens of his blessed isle,
which would merely need the presence of some of Calypso's
nymphes to render, ils sojourn dangerous to the jeunesse
dork of Quebec."
— How stands the enemy, Carleton ? what is the state of
the tide ? and with those castellated clouds banked up in
the west, what wind can you promise us, Mr. weather-prophet
Lavoie ? enquired Mac of the Isles.
— ^Well, mon capitaine, retorted gruff old Carleton, with a
curious wink in his eye, I think that unless the sun soon
shows his face, we are in for a blow of north-west wind :
the yatch will pitch and toss like a pea on a hot stove. I
hope no one here has forgotten his sea legs in Quebec :
The flood wont set in for an hour yet however. Jean Lavoie,
once a splendid specimen of the hardy and genial Canadian
mariner — able to handle a yatch in the ugliest sea, a good
type of the " peuple gentilhomme, " as the gifted late
Andrew Stuart, once styled the French Canadians, a favorite
of Mac of the Isles, but now too old to navigate the craft,
had been shipped as steward. He was a capital raconteur
and his Islands friends used to say he could " talk like a
Curi." Mac of the Isles, who knew of old Lavoie's special

— 237 —
talents, addressing the Coramodore, and the antiquary said :
" We are bound to wait here yet a full hour for the turn of
the tide, suppose we ask that old sea dog, who is brimful
of Canadian stories, to give us one of his best yarns, picked
up when he was an old " voyageur " — his story oi He des
Serpents is a capital one.
— We readily assented and asked the steward to draw
near. — Monsieur Lavoie, making us one of his poUtest bows,
appeared flattered by our request, and resting his athletic
frame on the mast, he opened thus :
— What shall it be, gentlemen ? the story of the Ile-au-
Massacre, at Bic; ofthe Micmacs of the Kapsouk; of
Mademoiselle de pranviUe's prisoner, at Goose Island, or
that of the Witch of the St. Lawrence ?
None of us had heard this weird, melancholy tale related
or if some of us had read it, in abbe Casgrain's volume of
Canadian legends, we felt curious to see, what now was the
popular version,bearing in mind, the strange transformations,
popular legends occasionaly assume. One and all we replied :
The Witch ! The Witch 1 1 The Witch.
Gentlemen, gravely retorted the aged mariner, I can
merely pretend to give a brief outline of a legend which
occupies, more than eighty pages in abb^ Casgrain's volume :
to which you can with advantage refer.
Of all the legends, I picked up in my youth and in mature
years, none took my fancy more than La Jongleuse. I pre
vailed on my grand son, just now finishing his course of
Belles-Lettres, at the Quebec Seminary to write it out for
rae, from my dictation ; you will perceive how cleverly he
has done it. I have since committed the story to memory.
Here goes my version, aided by abb^ Casgrain's narrative.

— 238 —
Suppose we start about midnight from the shore, just
below the old Lower Town church, with Le Canotier, for
such is the name of the expert canoeman went under : he
was an Indian :
Among his tribe he was known as Misti Tchinipek, that
is, the Great Snake, either on account of his rapid move
ments, or else perhaps, from the circumstance of his having
the likeness of a snake tatooed on his brawny chest.
The canoe also containes two other figures : a young
woraan of stately carriage and elegantly attired, but with a
sad, anxious face, and a boy of eight or ten years of age,
her son, who was resting on her lap his uncovered head.
This was Madame Houel, whose husband was an important
personage in the colony, as an associate of the Company of
Hundred Partners. He had met with a serious accident ;
hence, his wife had undertaken this hazardous night voyage,
at a time when aU Canada rang with reports of the sanguin
ary raids of the tireless and remorseless Iroquois.
One after the other had the city lights disappeared ; the
last visible from the receding shore being the solitary ray of
the lamp burning in the sanctuary of the old church.
Carried on the night wind carae the faint roar of the Mont-
raorenci Falls ; through a rift in the clouds, banked up in
the north-east, floated the new moon.
The boy, suddenly starting from his sleep, asked his
anxious raother whether she did not see, far away, walking
on the water, a woman in white, and then, nestling closer,
he shuddered and begged of her lo protect him against
this dreadful apparition.
" Sleep on, my darling, " she softly replied, with a sigh,
sleep on ; I shall awake you in time to see the beautiful
sun rise. " Le Canotier, in a simthered voice, whispered to
Madame Houel what he thought of the apparition which
had alarmed her son, adding that childhood was chosen

— 239 -
of God, and that children saw revealed, things hidden
from older mortals ; that, doubtless, tbe vision of her boy
presaged the neighborhood of the Matschi Skoueou, whose
diabolical incantations araong the Indian tribes had been
attested to by the missionaries ; that probably, at this very
moment, the Matshi Skoueou was leading the dreaded
Iroquois to some fresh murderous onslaught.
La Dame aux Glaieuls, the Matshi Skoueou, in the eyes
of the Pale Faces, is a powerful enchantress. The glances of
her sea-green pupils in the dark are like burning coals, and
throw a spell round her helpless victims ; her bushy hair,
black as a loon's wing, festoons her reed-crowned head like
a cascade of running water. Her bronzed features, her
scaly skin, her sardonic laugh, her violetblue Up.s, cause a
shudder to all beholders. She raises, as she goes, a cloud of
bluish sparks, to which darkness lends the weirdest forras ;
a veritable salamander, whose very vestments are proof
against fire and flame, is the Matshi Skoueou.
Evening is the time she selects for her fearful mysteries,
when the zephir dies in the tree-tops ; when all nature
slumbers, when the erratic Will-o'-the- Wisp capers over the
green meadows in the forest clearings, or on the greenish
waters of the reeking swamp ; when the bats noisselessly
skim the pond with their transparent wings, or hang on by
their prehensile claws to the angles of walls ; when the pipe
of the frog, the note of the red-eyed toad, tho hou-hou of
the bird of night, supersede all other sounds, then is the
time when La Dame aux Glaieuls lights among the rushes
on the river banks, in the vicinity of swamps, lo cull rushes
— a fitting wreath for her head, previous to invoking the
Manitou, or Great Spirit. AU at once the rushes and alders
are seen to bend and rusde, even on a calm night, yielding
before her, as she plunges in the Uquid element ; her head,
amidst the wild rushes and rank grass, assuming the bright- .
ness of a meteor.

— 240 —
Beware, oh 1 beware, at such times especially with a new
moon, to venture close to the river shore. Danger lurks aU
round you, on land, on sea ; horrible is the fate of the inno
cent victims "who then become her prey.
She invents tortures worse than heated collars, worse
than scalping, worse than the agony of a slow fire.
When the helpless native's heart throbs with pain, when
his hair is erect with horror, his eyes staring with fright ;
when his livid lips are blanched with terror, when anguish
racks his whole frame — the near harbinger of death — then
is the time for exultation of the fearful witch, intent in
catching the secret voice and revelations of the foul fiend
who inspires her.
The canoe was gliding noiselessly on, when aU at once,
after some raysterious, distant mutterings, two loud reports
frora fire-arms proclaimed the presence of the dreaded
Iroquois. " Seven savages in that canoe, " said Tchinipek. " We
are between two fires ; on our right the Iroquois, on our
left, the Matshi Skoueou. Let us back water ! Madame, your
boy must slop crying, else we will surely be captured. Lie
down both of you in the canoe."
Tchinipek, fearing that if he fired, the flash of the gan
would indicate their whereabouts in the darkness, strung
his bow and shot an arrow, with unerring aim, right to the
spot, from which the Iroquois had fired, killing one of their
warriors ; but the same instant an Iroquois buUet struck Le
mnotier's paddle, splitting it in twain. The struggle looked
hopeless — two against six — when Tchinipek, full of resource,
decided to let himself drop silently in the water, and, after
a few vigorous strokes, swam unperceived to the other canoe
and, with a sudden jerk, upset it, launching the inmates in
the water, and, in the confusion, striking two or three of
them with his tomahawk.

— 241 —
Madame Houel imagined having seen in the water the
dark form of a woman, stretching over her arm to seize
hold of her boy. Was it La Jongleuse 1
This gave Madame Houel's canoe a respite. It reached
the shore. Le canotier and his friends camped there until
morning. At sunrise, Le canotier took his gun, and sought
the woods to kill some game for their breakfast.
A horrible scene awaited his return. A pool of blood and
three corpse. He very soon recognized the livid remains of
Tchinipek, who evidently had dearly sold his life ; two
dead Iroquois lay there to prove it, but no trace on the
sand of the beach indicated whit had been the f ite of
Madame Houel and of her son.
On scanning the horizon, Le Canotier noticed in the dis
tance two canoes crowded with Indians.
Having given vent to his sorrow in loud ejaculations,
which the raountain echo seemed lo repeat, on the shore
he dug a grave, in which he dep jsited the remains of his
beloved friend. Removing frora a sapling, its green leaves,
he placed the trunk at the head of the grave, with a transver
sal branch — a rude cross. Then removing the scalps from
the two dead Iroquois, he planted Tchinipek's knife in the
centre of the post, and hung to il ths reeking scalps, a
fearful but suitable trophy for an Indian warrior.

The second act of this appalling drama opens with the
landing, many years subsequently, at the Pointe, at Rivifere
Ouelle, of two men, one advanced in years ; his companion
an athletic and handsome youth — Le Canotier and the son
of Madame Houel.
They are made welcorae at the solitary dwelling of the
Pointe, and being que-tioned as to the object of their visit,

— 242 —
young Houel relates, for the information of his hospitable
entertainers, the narrative of his sufferings, and of those of
his mother, when they were captured by the savages ; how
the diabolical old witch — the Matshi Skoueou — the adviser
of the tribe, ever intent on devising new modes of torture
for prisoners, compelled Madame Houel's son to aid in the
hanging to a tree of his beloved and devoted parent ; how,
after tracking the Iroquois along the coast, Le Canotier lay
in ambush and managed to secure the fire arms of the
savages, while engaged in one of their orgies, and succeeded
in shooting down, or disabling nearly all the parly. Le
Canotier was too late to save the life of Madame Houel,
whose body was stiU hanging to the tree, but succeeded in
rescueing her tortured son, just as his eyes were ready to
close in death.

CRANE ISLAND.
Governor De Montmagny's Game Preserve.
Now Mr. Oldbuck, let us have, if you please, the sketch
you have prepared of Governor Montmagny's enchanted
Isle. The antiquarian, taking a seat near the helmsman, held
forth as follows :
That quaint old repository of historical lore, the " Rela
tions des Jesuites,'' makes mention, among others, of two
picturesque islands in the St. Lawrence, thirty-six miles
lower than Quebec. Pbre Le Jeune alludes to them at an
early date as the inviolate sanctura and breeding ground of
miUions of ducks and teal, whose loud voices made the
whole place vocal in the summer season. We are told,
however, that in that annk terrible, 1663, as memorable as

— 243 —
the present (1886) is Ukely to be for Charieslon, South
Carolina, owing to frightful and continuous earthquakes, the
soil rolled and quaked, some added, " to that degree that
church steeples would bend and kiss the earth and then
rise again." This last feat, from its novelty, would doubt
less have been particularly attractive to witness from a
balloon, for instance, or from the deck of a ship ; from
anywhere, in fact, except from old mother earth. Such are
some of the notices our early annals furnish. Governor de
Montmagny seems to have set his mind at procuring these
islands as a game preserve for himself and friends. In May,
1646, Louis XIV made a grant of these islands to his
trusty lieutenant holding court at the Chateau Saint Louis,
al Quebec. A famous Nirarod, one would fain believe,
was this Knight Grand Cross of Jerusalem and Governor of
Quebec, Charles Huault de Monlraagny. He left his name
ofthe flourishing county of Monlraagny, which includes his
cherished shooting box. Of the bags of garae he annually
made up on the verdant and swampy beaches of his isles,
of the roasted black duck, teal and snipe he had served up
to his merry little court within the sacred precincts of Castle
of St. Louis, we have no record save the faint tracings of
tradition. Nature itself seemed to havc predestined this group of
green, solitary isles as the home of the aquatic tribe. It
afforded it more than a pleasant haunt during the spring and
fall ; a breeding place in summer, it contained an hospital
for the infirm and wounded birds of the neighborhood.
Mfere Juchereau, ofthe Hotel-Dieu Convent, at Quebec, in
her diary, under date of July 8, 1714J when with eight of
the saintly sisterhood and the Almoner, Rev. Messire Thi-
bault,(with the sanction ofthe Bishop, she adds), was visit
ing by water conveyance Big Goose Island, then recently
purchased by the monastery and held by il to this day, will
describe con amore this singular rock, still known as rocher

— 244 —
de VHopital : " We returned, " says she, " from our excur
sion, which had lasted eight days, perfectly delighted with
the beauty and fertility of the spot. Araong the most strik
ing objects, " she adds, " there is a large rock, which from
tirae iraraemorial goes by the name of the Hospital, because
any Canada goose (outarde) or other sea fowl wounded by
fowlers, hurries to this rock, like unto an asylum, where
relief is at hand. The feathered tribe have here delicate
appliances, in which art would seera to play a greater part
than nature. A nuraber of holes of various sizes are scooped
out of the solid rock. The tide flows into thera, the sun
warras the tidal water remaining therein. The invalid birds
bathe and luxuriate in these tepid reservoirs. When shal
low water is required, they resort to one of the smaller cavi
ties, or else plunge into a larger one, as they raay fancy.
They repose on the heated stone or elseUe irabedded in the
moss to cool Ihemselves. In hospital we noticed sick or
wounded outardes (Canada geese). They apparently reco
gnized us as Hospitalieres nuns. We were careful not to
scare them, and ascended to the surarait ofthe Hospital rock,
from which the eye took in a wide expanse of water — a sea."
Such is the bright picture drawn by good Mother Juchereau
de St. Ignace, the annalist of the monastery.
Whence the name of Crane Island ? That erratic wan
derer, sung by Hora, Gruem advenam, the wary crane
having also sought the island as a trysting place during the
spring and faU migrations frora Florida to the far countries
and Hudson Bay, the place was caUed after it. Crane Island.
Under French rule the law lent ils protection to the game
il contained. Special ordonnances de chasse were passed lo
that effect and some legislation to protect the ducks, &c.,
at the period of incubation also took place under the early
English Governors ; at one time several varieties of aquatic
fowl resorted lor food or incubation to its vast meadows,
clothed in luxuriant, coarse grass called rouche—a. subtan-

— 245 —
tial fodder for cattle. Pot-hunters having undertaken to hunt
with dogs the fledglings, in July, before they could fly, the
parent birds resented such unsportsmanlike practices and
sought other breeding places in the more secluded isles, on
the Labrador coast or in the neighborhood of Lake St. John.
They stiU return in the fall.
Among the early proprietors of these islands, figure the
names of some of the officers of the dashing Carignan-
SaUferes Regiment, subsequently lo whora we find the name
of a descendant of Baron Charles Le Moyne de Longueuil.
In 1775, the Seigneur was M. de Beaujeu, brother of the
famous de Beaujeu, who, in 1755, look part in the memor
able battle of the Monongahela. In 1759, he had been
intrusted Vilh the command of an important post, that of
Michilimakinac in the west, for his services and devotion lo
the cause of His Most Christian Majesty, he was decorated.
De Beaujeu, at the head of his censitaires, was a sturdy
chieftain; nor did he hesitate during the winter of 1775-6
to cross over and join the succor, which De Gaspd, Seigneur
of St. Jean-Port-Joly, Couillard, Seigneur of St. Thomas,
and an old Highland officer, Thoraas Ross, of Beaumont,
made a noble effort to pour into Quebec. The skirmish
with the Continentals and their Canadian allies took place
at St. Pierre, Rivibre du Sud, and is known in Canadian
annals as I'affaire de Michel Blais. It was a rout for the
Loyalists. It is curious to follow the warlike Seigneur de Beaujeu
upholding the standard of England in 1775-6 — the same
standard he had successfully opposed before the desertion
of the colony by France. De Beaujeu's name still survives
on Bayfield's old charts — in that ofthe shifting sand b.ink,
in the St Lawrence opposite the Manor House. It is proper
lo state that his winter expedition of 1775-6, to relieve His
Excellency, Guy Carieton, blockaded in Quebec, ended in
a disaster, nearly costing hira and his followers their lives
16

- 246 —
capt de Beaujeu expired at Crane Island in June, 1802,
and was buried at Cap St. Ignace, opposite.
In our early sporting days we recollect hearing from the
oldest inhabitants of the islands, quaint anecdotes, relating
to their aged and warUke Seigneur de Beaujeu. It would
seem that on great holy days the Chevalier de St Louis
took particular pride in wearing in his button-hole the red
ribbon of the order sent out to him by the King of France,
Louis XIV. Age and infirmities creeping on, the old lion
used to remain in his den the greater part of the day, and
when the tenants brought the rents and seigniorial capons at
Michaelmas, more than once, they had to kindle the fire on
the very spacious hearth, inclosed by an antique " wide-
throated chimney,'' which to this day is a subject of curio
sity to all visitors, so as to render the hall tenantable.
Recently there were lying on the shore at Crane Island,
near the church, an antiquated rusty cannon, brought from
Cape Briile on the north shore, opposite to Crane Island.
In 1859, a similar cannon, measuring in length 5ft Sin. and
i2in. in diameter, was presented by a resident of Crane
Island, Capt Lavoie, to the Quebec Serainary ; at that
period some ofthe timbers of this old wreck were stiU visible.
History furnishes full details of the wreck, at Cape Brule of
the French man-of-war Elephant, on Sept i, 1729, carrying
to Quebec some of the most noted men in the colony.
Bishop Dosquet, Intendant Hocquart and others ; the
cannori we saw at present forras part of the antiques and
curios, gathered together in the Museum of Herbert Moles
worth Price, esquire, at Montmorency Falls, near Quebec,
the antiquary is very proud of this relic of the past. With
the exception of the de Beaujeu seigniorial manor on the
lower end of Crane Island, rebuilt and enlarged by McPher
son Le Moyne, esquire, of Boston, the new seigneur, who
¦occupies it during the summer months, all the dweUings
stand on the northern side of the island ; a thick belt of

— 247 —
forest trees hides them from view, except when the steamer
takes the north channel — the old French route — when
they are faintly seen in the distance. The locality ranked
as a parish, under the name of St. Antoine de I'lle-aux-
Grues, as early as 1683, when it comprised but three
families, in all fifteen souls. In 1678, Pierre de Becart,
Sieur de GranviUe, was the seigneur.
Crane Island — six miles in length — during the " leafy
months " is noted for its salubrity and attractiveness. A
highway, as level as a bowling green, runs from one end to
the other, and umbrageous woods, descending to the shores,
intersect the portion of the island which is not under cul
ture. A dense grove of graceful maple and oak trees, some
thirty acres long, fringes the crest of this plateau at the
west point facing the anchorage, well known to every river
pUot, La Pointe aux Pins. The Marine and Fishing Depart
ment in 1866 erected a Ughlhouse on a pier which now
connects with the shore, also a number of beacons on the
land and recently, gas buoys in the channel, near de Beau
jeu's shoal. In the rear of the lighthouse the ground rises
in successive terraces, studded with dwarf parasol pines of
singular beauty, and leads through natural avenues to the
wooded and umbrageous plateau above, known as " Le
Doraaine du Seigneur, " a cool, delightful spot for a picnic
or fete champetre, of which Quebecers seem fully disposed
to avail theraselves with the perraission of the owner. These
picturesque highlands have also their heather, a fuzzy,
graceful carpet of juniper bushes, weighted down each faU
with fruit. When Septeraber crirasons the adjoining maple
groves, a visit to this elysium is a thing to be remembered.
Few sites in our gorgeous Canadian scenery, can surpass
its river views, extending to Cape Tourmente, Cape Mail-
lard, and over the innumerable islets on the north side
.basking in sunshine at your feet.

— 248 —
The old manor, with its green groves, orchard, ample
veranda, flagstaff and nuraerous outhouses, is in fuU view
from the steamers ascending the south channel. Some
distance in rear are two antiquated wind mills — the head
quarters of the snipe shooters ; — to grind the island wheats
beyond this a siring of pretty, white cottages extending
lo the west end of the island ; the parish church of course,
as in all Canadian scenery, looms up in the center. As a
river view, nothing can surpass in grandeur the panorama
which the lovely St Lawrence here unfolds on a radiant
suraraer raorning, when with the rising tide a fleet of swan-
winged raerchant men emerge from the Traverse far below,
in the direction of the church of St Roch des Aulnets : at
first dim, while specks on the horizon, gradually growing
larger and larger, on the bosom of the glad waters ; each in
succession, crowding on your gaze, lop sails, top gallant sails
and royals all set, a raoving tower of canvas advancing
toward the island shore — at tiraes so close that you can hear
the voices of all on board.
It was at one time contemplated to divide in lots the
west end of the island for sportsmen wishing to build their
shooting lodges in proximity to the several fishing and
shooting grounds in the neighborhood, such as He St.
Marguerite, Battures-aux-loups marins (Seal Rocks), Roches
Plates and St. Joachim beaches. Such is Governor Mont
magny's game preserve of 1 646.

ON SOME HISTORICAL DOGS.

Matelot — Pilot — Ste. Ursula's Dogs — Baron Robineau's
Hounds — Niagara — Vingt sols, His father — ¦ Le
Chien D'or — Montgomery — Niger — Cerberus —
Citron — Cabot — Vaillant — Wolfe.
Many dogs have had their day, in the New as well as the
Old World, though so far few, chroniclers have told their
tale. Could not America boast of a pre-historic dog — as well
as of a pre-historic man? Whence came those dogs noticed
by Jacques Cartier and the early explorers, at Stadacona and
Hochelaga, and how did they come there ? Can they trace
back to the Aryan era ? — is their origin Chinese, Tartar,
or Mongolian ? or what were they before evoluHng into Cana
dian dogs ?
Alcibiades' friend, was doubtless a great dog. We read in
history of that remarkable swimming feat of Xantippus' dog
Tvhich cost him his life. Parkman mentions the victory gained
-over a wolf, on the shores of Lake Ontario, in 1751, by Abbd
Piquet's dog " Cerberus " (Montcalra and Wolfe, i Vol.
ip. 69).
Racine in his Plaideurs, introduces us to that theivish
mastiff " Citron " tried before Judge Dandin for having
abstracted a Maine capon. • (Les Plaideurs, Act II. Scene
XIV). Our own annals record the names and feats of more
than one eminent Chien de qualite.
The name of one of our most ancient streets in Quebec,
brings up the subject for discussion : Sault-au-Matelot Street,

— 250 —
in the Lower Town. Was it thus called, as Father Du
Creux has it, on account of a dog, bearing the name of
" Matelot " leaping from the cape, in the street one hundred
feet below. Saltem Nauti, vulgo vocant ab cane hujus nominis
qui alias ex eo-loco se prcecipitem dedit." (i) I have been
asked whether the dog belonged to Champlain ? Another
version indicates a merry tar, as having taken this desperate
leap, under the effects of the " ardent. " Grammatici
certarit. Then there is that fierce mastiff slut " PUot" described
by Father Lalemant, in 1647, as leading each morning to
the woods her litter of savage pups, taking with them a
ramble round the Fort, at Montreal ; scouring the under
brush and scanning carefully every bush to discover a
skulking Mohawk. Woe betide the unlucky whelp who-
shirked his work ! " Pilot," would worry, snap at him —
baying fiercely if a lurking foe was in the neighborhood. '
" Pilot " meant business, she evidentiy had little in common.
with Sir LeoUne's dog, described by Samuel Taylor Coleridge,,
" a toothless mastiff,
Which from her kennel beneath the rock
Maketh answer to the clock
Four for the quarters and twelve for the hours I
Ever and aye by shine and shower
Six-teen short howls, not over loud 1 "
A few years later, in 1660, one comes across the noisy
pack of hounds, une douzaine de grands chiens, used by the
Ursuline Nuns, at Quebec, says Marie de F Incarnation, as
sentinels at the Convent Gate, to herald the approach of the
merciless Iroquois whom they hated and hunted relentlesly
as the Cuban bloodhounds hunt the blacks, whereas the
Indian dogs loved Redskins. Whence came these French
dogs? tl) CreuxjuB. Historia Canadensis, p. 204.

— 251 —
It would seem that some of the Seigruurs of that day
freely used this mode of protection, too freely, we.are
occasionally reminded. Thus the Robineau, Barons of
Portneuf, becarne quite obnoxious, on account of the feror
cious hounds they kept at their mannor, on the river Port
neuf; these animals, when at a loss for marauding savages
tOi worry, -^attacked the censitaires and travellers as weU. (i)
No entry occurs in the journals of the great siege, of any
dog having scaled with Wolfe, the SUlery precipice, on that
fatidical 13rd day of September, 1759. The only mention
we can recollect of any dog in KAox's voluminous Journal
is that of the Golden Dog — le Chien d'Or, — bearing the
mysterious inscription :
" Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os
Ce faisant, je prends mon repos."
which now again is visible on the frontispiece of the Cily
Post Office, over the door. Capt Knox, ot the 43rd, on
entering the city after the capitulation, on the i8th Septem-^
ber of that year, took a note of this yet unexplained inscrip
tion and inserted it in full in his Journal of the Siege,
Vol. II.
,Our poets and novelists have frequently made it do duty
since that date ; in 1871, when the old building was razed
to make room for the new, a lead plate was discovered
under the cornerstone with the date of the buUding " 1735"
and the name of the owner
" Nicholas Jaquin dit Philiber
ma posee 3 aout 1735."
Who then will unravel the mystery of the Chien d'Or
which defied.all the archaeological lore of Jacques Viger? It
gave birth to one of our most thrilling novels : " Le chien
(1) Histoire de la paroisse du Cap Santo.

— 252 —
d'Or," by WUliam Kirby, of Niagara, F. R. S. C, which has
since been translated into french (i). The canine species
has found warm friends araong the poets in all ages ;
" Boatswain '' and " Maida " as typical and honored dogs,
will live in story so long as the works of Byron and Scott
are read ; so wUl the " Peppers " and " Mustards, " " Bran "
and " Bevis. " Lockhart tells how much Scott felt the loss
of one of his faithful companions, sending on the day of his
death an apology to an acquaintance who had asked him
out to dine, alleging that he could not go having just learned
of the death of an old friend. Our own Laureate, L.-H.
Frechette, in one of his best effusions, has a kind word for
his dog " VaiUant" (2)
History also mentions two warlike dogs, Niagara and his
father Vtngt sols, who played a part in our early campaigns
1688-1704. (3)
The charming old raconteur De Gaspd, in his Memoirs, (4)
describes a handsome large spaniel which the luckless Bri
gadier-General Richard Monlgoraery had owned, and which
followed his reraains to the grave, at the foot of our citadel,
Tcmaining there for three days without taking any food,
howling in anguish and tearing up the frozen sod. Charles
de la Naudibre, an uncle of this writer and aide-de-camp

.(1) The Montreal journal Ilitendard contains M. P. LeMay's
iran^ation. ,(2) P^le-M^le— Frtehette— p. 79.
i(3) Une petite note que nous adresse notre ami, M. Pierre Margry :
Voici pour votre journal, Paris-Canada, un souvenir qui vous per-
tnettra dans un moment ou I'armee s'applique i, tirer partie des
ohlens pour divers usages, de montrer I'emploi qu'on en faisait au
Canada & la fin du XVIIe sifecle.
II y avait de 1688 k 1704 un chien §tabli pour courrier de Cham
bly k la Prairie de la Madeleine. Ce chien avait obtenu une ration et
^tait incorpore sur le r61e des soldats sous le nom de " Monsieur de
Niagara." II etait fils d'un autre qui s'appelait " Vingt-Sols " et avait
servi de sentinelle It Niagara au temps de M. Des BergJres.
— (Le Canadien, 24 d4o. 1887.)
(4) Memoires de DeGaspfi, pp. 40-44.

— 253 —
to Lord Dorchester, then Governor-General, by dint of
kindness coaxed the faithful animal 10 his own house, where
he at last got reconciled to his fate ; he was thought much
of by his new master. " Montgomery, " such was his name,
fared better than a fat Newfoundlan 1 dog which had fol
lowed to Quebec, through the Kennebec route, one of the
Brigadier's comrades, Capt. Dearborn : the pangs of hunger
at one time were such that the Newfoundland dog was
killed and cooked for the brave New Englanders, so deter
mined to provide us Canadians with the sweets of republi
can Uberty ; the only excuse for thus dispatching the
" friend of raan " was gaunt faraine ; one day a barber's
powder bag and a pair of old moose hide breeches (i) were
boiled and then broiled for the sons of Liberty and the next,
Capt. Dearborn's companion, was made into broth and
served as a substitute for bear's meat, alas 1 (2)
Mr. DeGaspd further describes at page 52 of his memoirs
a superb collie dog which His Excellency Lord Dorchester,
in leaving Quebec, in 1796, had presented to his father, the
loyal old seigneur of St. Jean Port Joli, who, twenty years
or more previously, had risked his life in an expedition he
,and the Seigneurs de Beaujeu, of Crane Island, and CouU-
lard, of St. Thomas, aided by a wariike French priest. Rev.
Messire Chs.-Frangois BaiUy, of St Pierre, Rivifere du Sud
{afterward Bishop of Gaspd), had organized to go to the
relief of the sorely beset capital during the winter of 17 75-6.
" Niger " was the name of this live token of friendship ; a
cherished and intelligent dog, " Niger " ever was. History
tells of another eminent individual of the canine race : by

(1) " Old Moose hide breeches were boiled, and then broiled on
-the coals and eaten ; a barber's powder bag made a soup in the
course of the last three or fcur days before we reached the first set
tlement In Canada."
(2) Ware's Journal.

— 254 —
name " Cabot," thus called after the discoverer of New
foundland, Sebastian Cabot, and presented with " a massive
sUver collar and steel chain," on the 25th of July, i860, by
the Newfoundlanders, to the Prince of Wales, on his visit
to our shores : " Cabot " was indeed a beauty ; a shaggy,
brave and grand dog.
About the time " Cabot " became a prince's dog, a
magnificent St. Bernard mastiff answering to the name of
" Wolfe, " was presented by a Montreal friend to the
writer or these lines, on his taking possession, in i860, of
his present homestead, a lineal descendant, he liked to-
believe him of " Barry," or Mr. MocJona's favorite St. Ber
nard, "Tell."
" Wolfe " was indeed a noble fellow and reliable friend„
He proved a most efficient guardian of the grounds. His
stature, strength, majestic demeanor and deep loud baying,,
attracted wide attention and inspired visitors with respect not
unmixed with awe : such was the opinion entertained of
him by the urchins of Bergerville, that, with the aid of a few
legends about his ferocity adroitly dropped by the gardener,
none had the hardihood to cross the frontier after nightfall ;
and though " Wolfe " has some time ago joined the great
majoiity, the terror of his name still lasts ; he is supposed
still to stand sentinel al night.
In perusing Dr. Kane's interesting Journal of Arctic
explorations, I have at times been inclined to doubt whether
his dog stories are all exact. I have nothing to say against
" Old Grim." I am also prepared to accept the doctor's
authority for the lunacy overtaking his teara, under the effect
of intense cold and prolonged darkness, but I really am,
inclined to think the alleged " voracity " of the canine
individuals overdrawn, when he depicts them as ready to
gulp down a whole feather bed. (Vol. I, page 64.) However
from time irameraorial dogs been voracious, witness those

— 255 —
dogs seen by Queen Athalie in her dream, crunching up
the flesh and bones of her mother.
Des lambeaux pleins de sang et des membres affreux,
" Que des chiens dkvorants se disputaient entre eux."
Who has forgotten Burns' " Twa dogs, " " Cassar, " the
Newfoundland " o'high degree " UHe " Cabot "
 " keepit for his honour's pleasure ;
 whalpit some place far abroad
Where sailors gang to fish for cod,
His locked, batter'd, braw brass collar
Show'd him the gentleman and scholar ;
The t'other was a plonghman's collie
A rhyming, ranting, roving billie,
Wha' for his friend and comrade had him
And in his freaks had Luath ca'd him.

I love my dog — a beautiful dog,
Brave and alert for a race ;
Beady to frolic with baby or man ;
Dignified, too, in his place.
I like his bark, — a resonant bark.
Musical, honest, and deep ;
And his swirling tail and his shaggy coat
And his sudden, powerful leap.
Oh, never a corpulent pug for me,
Nor a Spitz with treacherous snap I
Never a trembling pattering hound.
Nor a poodle to live on my lap I
No soft-lined basket for bed has Jack,
Nor bib, nor luxurious plate ; •
But the doorstep brow, that he guards so well,
And the lawn are his royal state.

— 256 —
No dainty leading-ribbon of silk
My grand, good dog shall fret :
No golden collar needs he, to show
He's a very expensive pet ;
But just my loving voice for a chain.
His bound at my slightest sign.
And the faith when we look in each other's eyes
Proclaim that my dog is mine.
He'll never be carried in arms like a babe,
Nor be dragged like a toy, all a-curl ;
For he proudly known he's a dog, does Jack,
And I'm not that soi:t of a girl.
— Bessie Hill, in St. Nicholas.
A good time, I trust, is yet in store for this most inter
esting portion of the brute creation, and if this sketch of
some celebrated dogs can help in stimulating still further
the praiseworthy efforts of our leading citizens in organizing
dog shows and offering prizes, to promote purity in the
various breeds of these faithtul friends of man, my object
will have been attained, ample my reward.
Spencer Grange, April, 1885.

.A^i^iPEnsriDioE.

THE EARLY MODE OF TRAVEL.
f Note for page 64.
STfiAM NAVIGATION — THE TURF — SlE JaMES-H. CeAIO, ISIO.
A student of Canadian history has recently enclosed me the follow
ing epistle, from an aide-de-camp of Lieut.-Govemor Gore, " Upper
Canada, " to Colonel Claus. 1 crave leave to add a few comments.
Among other pleasant gossip, it affords a curious glimpse of the
mode of travel from York (now Toronto) to Qilebeo, at the dawn of
the century, and from the number of exalted personages alluded to
in the letter, the document seems to possess more than the passing
interest of the hour.
Of courso, we all know that navigation by steam had existed from
Quebec to Montreal, six months previous to the 1st July, 1810, — date
ofletter. ''
Crowds had hurried down Mountain HiU on the 6th and 7th
November, 1809, to see; to Hon. John Molson's wonderful craft,
" whioh no wind nor tide could, stop, " — the steamer " Accommo
dation, " measuring seventy-five feet keel. We have made progress
since then, the old " John Munn " steamer, measured 312 feet, if we
recollect well. The Quebec Mercu/ry, after fully describing the first
nautical phenomenon, adds — "A mast was tobejfixed in her for the
purpose of using a sail when the wind is favorable, which will occa.
sionally accelerate her headway. " Her speed was not much to boast
of, she having taken sixty hours, including fifteen hours at anchor, to
perform the passage which now occupies ten.
Lady Gore, the wife of the Lt.-Governor of Upper Canada, seems
to have found a considerate friend in Lady Johnston, at LaChine.
One would have liked to see the historic house of liobert de LaSalle,
at LaChine 79 years ago. Let us hope its remains won't disappear
from the Fraser homestead. The distinguished travellers met with
good cheer at the Chateau St. Louis from that sturdy but hospitable
old soldier, Sir James-H. Craig, the Governor-General of Canada, in
the midst of the turmoil and excitement, which the seizure of the

— 258 —
GoMiadien newspaper and the jailing ofthe M. Ps., Blanchette, Tache-
xeau, Bedard, had caused a few weeks previous. Little King Craig,
though in ill-health, was the kindest of hosts and readily gave up
his own quarters to the Lieut.-Governor. We are next brought in
presence of the Quebec Turf Club, and on referring to the Qmbea
Ctaeette for July, 1810, we find that the races lasted three days, the
5th, 6th and 7th July. A large sprinkling of the military as usual
among the patrons of this exciting sport ; we notice the name of a
well remembered Lower Town merchant, W. Coleman, Lt;-Col,
Thornton, Lt..Col. Pye, Major Heriot, J. Ritchie, &c. The Quebec cup
was given by His Excellency the Governor-General, Sir James-
Henry Craig, the ladies' cup by Lady Gore, wife of the Lieui^
•Governor of Upper Canada. We are next reminded of the presence
in the Ancient Capital of that brave soldier. General Sir Isaac Brock.
i-General Brock had been a denizen of Quebec, since 1802, and left us
in 1810 to go to Western Canada as commander of the forces. In
181 1, he was administrator of that Province ; he fell nobly at Queen
ston Heights on the 10th October, 1812. One of the officers who
served under him in the 49th, the late Lt.-Col. John Sewell, stated
to us that in the latter years of his residence, he lived in a house in
Garden street still existing and fronting the site iu rear of which
now stands Cumming's farrier shop. " Every one then knew and
loved the tall old bachelor, as he was styled. J.-M. L.
'Copy of letter from Major Halton, Aid-de-Camp to Lieut.-Govemor
Gore, to Col. Claus. Quebec, 1st July, 1810.
Mt Dear Glaus, — While I rest_^i;e minutes from my usual hurries,
I shall indulge myself with giving you a brief notice of our journey.
We had a very pleasant voyage to Kingston of eight and forty hours,
and Mrs. Gore most luckily was not the least sick. She did not go
ashore there, but set off for Montreal in three hours in a batteau
prepa^-ed by Major Trotter and finished by Major Halton. With a
little hurrying and a /ew of the usual inconveniences we landed at
LaChine the fourth day, where we found Lady Johnson very kind
but looking very ill.
She insisted on our making her house in Montreal our quarters,
which the Governor and Mrs, Gore did.
Jim and myself flrst encamped before the house and afterwards
went to Esther's.

— 259 —
Various plans having been canvassed for our route here, we deter
mined at last upon the steamboat, which McGilveray and the Gover
nor took to themselves.
We left Montreal on Thursday last at 12 and arrived very plea
santly on Friday evening within about thirty miles of Quebec, wheu
a squall came on and a head wind which obliged us to anchor for
«ight or ten hours, but we got under weigh on Saturday early and
landed at Quebec about one o'clock. While the wind was fair we did
very well, but when not so, we were most terribly smoked.
Mrs. Gore was sick during the squall and most dreadfully b itten
by mosquitoes, who boarded us in a calm, from the Islands near Lake
St. Pierre. Mrs. McGillveray is in better spirits than we expected ;
she sails for England on Tuesday with old Tod.
Sir James has received us not only with the greatest attention but
really with the greatest kindness. The instant we arrived, he sent
¦down Colonel Thornton in a boat and his carriage in great state to
convey Mrs. Gore to the Chateau, where he has given up hia own
bed-room and suite of apartments to Mrs. Gore and the Governor.
I am at Kempt's and Jim at General Brock's. Mrs, Gore has gone
under a great deal of fatigue, but her tuneful tongue was running
until eleven last night and she is gone to church with Sir James
to-day. The races begin on Thursday, and I presume we must stay to
them. How we return I don't know yet.
The " Spitfire " arrived from England a day or two ago. I do not
hear she has brought any particular news. If I can regret anything
it is not having you to plague, and away from Dawney.
Believe me ever yours,
Wm. Halton.

SCALPING NOT ALWAYS FATAL.
Note for page 69.
Jean Chicot, a Montrealer, says Abb6 Faillon, was scalped by the
Iroquois, near Montreal, on the 6th May 1651. Survived fourteen
years, — (Histoire de la Colonic Frangaise en Canada, Vol, II, p, 121.)
Note for page SIS.
Mr. Griffith has now several Guardians on his pools.

HUNTING & FISHING.

FROYINCE OF QUIBEC.

CI.OSE SEASOJVS-HUWTIWG.

1. Moose and caribou  From 1st Feb. to 1st Sept.
2. Deer  " 1st Jan. to 1st Octob.
JV. B.,— The hunting of rnoose, caribou or deer with dogs or by means-
of snares, traps, &c., is prohibited.
iVo person {whiteman or Indian has a right, during one season^s-
hunting, to kill or take alive — unless he has previously obtained a per
mit from ihe Commissioner or Crown Lands for that purpose — more
than 2 moose, 3 caribou and i deer.
After thefirst ten days of the close season, all railways and steam
boat companies and public carriers are forbidden to carry the whol&
or any part (except the skin) of any moose, caribou or deer, without
being authorized thereto by the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
3. Beaver, mink, otter, marten, pekan. From ist April to 1st Nov.
4. Hare  '• 1st Feb. to 1st Nov.
5. Musk-rat (only in the counties of
Maskinongfe, Yamaeka,Richelieu
andBerthier)  ¦' 1st May to 1st April follow
ing
6. Woodcock, snipe, partridge of any
kind  ,, " 1st Feb, to 1st Sept.
7. Black duck, teal, wild duck of any
kind  r •' loth AprU to 1st Sept.
(except sheldrake and gull.) And at anytime of the year,
N. B.— Nevertheless fa that part of between one hour carter sunset
the Province to the East and North-^ and one hour before sunrise.
of the counties of Bellechasse and it is also forbidden to keep.
Montmorency, theinhabitantsmay, exposed, during such prohi-
at all seasons of the year, but only Vbited hours,lures or decoys, &c.
for the purpose of procuring food,
&o., shoot any of the birds men
tioned m No. 7.

— 261 —

8. Birds known as perchers, such as"
swallows, king birds, warblers,
flycatchers, woodpeckers, whippor-
wills, finches, (song-sparrows, red
birds, mdigo birds, &c.,) cow-bunt-
ingSj titmice, goldflnches, grives,
(robin, woodthriishes, &o.,) king
lets, bobolinks, grakles, grosbeaks.
humming birds, cuckoos, owla,&c.,
except eagles, falcons, hawks and

From 1st March to 1st Sep.

except eagles, falcons, hawks and
other birds of the falconidee, wild
pigeons, king-flshers, crows.ravens,
waxwings {ricolleta}, shrikes, jays,
magpies, sparrows and starlings. , ,
9. To take nets or epfg,* of wild birds , , . At any time of the year.
N. B.— Fine of $2 to |100, or imprigonment in default of payment.
No per.ion who is not domiciled in th". Province of Quebec, nor in
that of Ontario can, at any time, hunt in this Province without having
previously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of
Crown Lands. Such permit is not transferable.
Fee : f20.00.
" $10.00 for members of a " flsh and game Club " duly incorpo
rated in tho Province ot Quebec.
1. Salmon (angling)  From 15th Aug. to 1st Feb.
2. Speckled trout, («aZt)e«iJM«/onM»aK,!), " 1st Oct. to 1st January
3. Large grey trout, lunge and winninish, " 15th Oct. to 1st Dec.
4. Pickerel  " 15th April to 15th May
5. Bass and Maskinongfi  '' 15th April tolSth June
6. "Whitefish  " 19th Nov. to 1st Deo.
Fine of |5 to $29, or impriaonment in default of payment.
N. B. — Angling by hand, (with hook and line), is the only means
permitted to be used for taking flah in the lakea and rivers under control
of the Government of the Province of Quebec.
No person, who is not domiciled in the Province of Quebec, can, at
'any time, fish in the lakes or rivers under control of the Government
of this Province, not actually under lease, without having previously
obtained (permit to that effectfrom the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
Such permit is only for the time, place and persons therein indicated.
Department op Grown Lands.
Quebec, Sth May, 1889.
E. E. TACHE,
Assista/nt-Gommissio'ncr of
Oroimt, Lands.

17

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Pages
. , I. — QujiBEC. TO, MONTMOKBNCI.
Beauport — Its history - - Scenery — Warlike Chro
nicles — Its Cataract — Duke of Kent's Lodge  5-32
II. — La Bonne Sainte- Anne.
Its miracles — Baie St. Paul — Kalm's mining explo
rations-, in 1749 — Earthquakes and siege anec
dotes  33-52
III. — Dupt'ERiN Terrace.
The Chateau promenade as seen by the Swedish savant
Peter Kalm, in August 1749. Dufferin Terrace,
described by Adirondack Murray, in August, 1887. 52-60
I'V. — Quebec to Fort Jacques-Cartier.
Montcalm before the battle — The retreat — Fort Jac
ques-Cartier — Its relics ,  60-64
V. — Quebec to Portneuf.
Winter travel in the Olden Time between Quebec and
Montreal — Wayside Inns — The Grand Barons ot
Portneuf and their Ferocious Dogs — Perrot, the
Bald  64-71
VI. — Quebec to Deschambault.
The Deschambault Manor — Its Past and Present. . . . 71-77

— 264 —
VII. — Megantic.
Its pioneers— Its railways — Its asbestos mines — Its
beautiful lakes —Dr. D.-H. Howard's map  77-84
¦VIII.— Beauce.— (Ste. Marie.)
The Foot-prints of the Invader in 1775 — Lt. Col.
Caldwell's opinion of them  84-91
IX.— Beauce. — (St. Joseph.)
Dr. Senter's Diary of the siege— The New Englanders
cross the border in 1775 — The French Canadians
cross the border in 1875j — The Monroe doctrine,
as understood in Canada  ,  91-97
X. — Beauce. — (St. Frangois.)
Bird Chapter — The Bobolink — Le Goglu  97-100
XI. — Quebec to Magbalen Islands.
Levis — Its martial records of the past — Its first
settler — Harlaka — Beaumont — St Charles — St.
Valier — St Michel — St Thomas — Papineau —
Cap St. Ignace — Islet — St. Jean, Port-Joly —
Ste. Anne de la Pocatifere — Rivifere-Ouelle — Its
Porpoise Fisheries — Its Legends — Kamouraska —
Fraserville — Cacouna — He Verte — Trois Pis
toles — St. Fabien — St. Siraon — Bic — Its Her
mit — Rimouski — Metis — Sir George Stephens —
Our Salmon aud Salmon trout rivers — Writers on
Salmon and trout rivers — Dr. Henry — Richard
Nettle — Dr. W. A. Adamson — Robert B. Roose
velt — Charles Lanman — Charles Hallock — G.
M. Fairchield, jr. — Gasp^ Bassin — • Morpheus'
Domain — New Carlisle ; A. U. E. Loyalist settle
ment — The Caldwell Manor — A Glimpse of Prince
Edward Island — Charlottetown — Rustico — Mag
dalen Island Group  100-209

—'265 —
XII. — Qubbbo to lake St. John.
Mistassini Falls — The Birds and Fishes met at Lake
St. John, Saguenay District, Province of Quebec,—
Ascent of the first steamer to the Mistassini Falls. 209-217
XIII.-— The Cruise ob the Hirondeiie.
The seal Islands — Their Game — Their Legends —
Sorel and its Game — Lieut. Governor Letellier —
Crane Island, Montmagny's Game Preserve  217-248
XIV. — On some Historical Dogs.
Matelot — Pilote — Ste. Ursula's Dogs — Baron Robi
neau's Hounds — Nia£;ara — Vingt-sols, his father
— Le Chien D'Or — Montgomery — Niger — Cer
berus — Citron — Cabot — Vaillant — Wolfe  248-256
Appendicb.
The Early mode of Travel — Scalping not always fatal 257-259

ST. LOUIS HOTEL
QUEBEC, CANADA

v«-!!^*

1

fa ,k .

I ''HIS HOTEL, which is unrivalled for size, style
and locality in Quebec, has just been completely
I transformed and modernized throughout, being
refitted with new system of drainage and veatila-
(^ tion, passenger elevator, electric bells and lights,
y &c. In fact, all that modern ingenuity and prac-
< tieal science can devise to promote the comfort
and convenience of guests, has been supplied.
SI* ST< L:'0''l[fl'S is eligibly situated in the imme
diate vicinity of the most delightful and fashion
able promenades, the Governor's Garden, the Citadel,
Place d'Armes, Dufferin Terrace and the Esplanade,
and contains accommodation for 500 gtaests.

Oliateau St. Louis Hotel Company,

Proprietors.

ESTABUSHED IIT 1878

OB

CS

£«

:~i ,•

Wk

m

CB 3

^

«sl

S- Pi

%H

0^kip

' 02

=*'b

^
« o
i=.0
^
^ M
-^
S >5
f«
-S2 <l
w
¦^ H
^
OT^ Q
Si?5
c:s
f-TT
t>
3
S
a p
•S a
^TS.^
o ¦ c
*-a
EC
C=3
CO
ers
«¦ m'
'"T*
S?
g
=zi
c
¦?
GENERAL RAILWAY! STEAMSHIP
TICKET OFFICE,
32 - ST. LOUIS STREET - 32
Q,TJEBE!0
THS BAZAR DU YOYIGI
28 -ST. LOUIS STREET -28
Next door to the General Railway and Steamsblps Ticket Office,
and opposite the St. Louis Hotel.
Have the largest assortment of "English" and " Scotch" Flies for
Salmon, Winniniche and Trout. Rods or all deseriptions. Reels, Lines,
Gaffe, Netts, &c., &c. Rifles, Revolvers and Camping Outfits. Havana ¦
and Domestic Cigars, Cigarettes, Pipes & Tobacco. Steamers' Chairs &
Camp Stools a Speciality. Novels, Views of Quebec, Montreal, the Lake
St. John District and Saguenay River.
 ALSO A FULL ASSORTMENT OF 
J.-B. LALIBERTE'S GOODS
THE LARGEST MANUFACTURER IN CANADA OF
GENTS AND LADIES FINE FURS
FANCY FUB BUGS, MOUNTED SKINS AND BOBFS, WNIED MOOSE AND CABIBOU BEADS
A SPECIALITY.
  :  :_  ,  :s.i /
' ., " .^ '' ' '" -^ . «# ,
¦ -,* - ^~*»., . '-»/P4.4>
OF
J. M. LeMOINE, f.r.s.c. ',
ENGLISH.
LEGENDARY LORE OF THE LOWER St. LAWRENCE, (1 toI. in-32) . . 1862
MAPLE LEAVES, {1st Scries) (1 vol. in-80)  '_.... 1863
" " (2nd Series) (1 vol. ln-8o)  ;.... 1864.
" (3rd Series) (1 vol. in-8o)-  186»
THE TOURIST'S NOTE BOOK,. (1 vol. ln-64) by Cosmopolite.  :  1870
THE SWORD OF BRIGADIER GENERAL MONTGOMERY,
(A memoir) (1 vol. in 84)  1870
TRIFLES FROM MY PORTFOLIO, (Now Dominion Monthly)  1872
MAPLE LEAVES, (Now Series)  I873
QUEBEC, PAST & PRESENT  1878
THE TOURIST'S NOTE BOOK, (second edition)  187S
CHRONICLES OF T|IE St. LAWRENCE, (1 vol. in-80)  1878-
HISTORICAL NOTES ON QUEBEC AND ITS ENYIRONS  1879
THE SCOT IN NEW FRANCE, a ^ i .ct^ure before L. & H. Soc'ty  1880
THE WILD FLOWERS, ROUND UlJEBBC  1885 -
PICTURESQUE QUEBEC, an Encyclopedia of Quebec History, (1 vol.
in-80) 551 pages  — .,  1882
HISTORICAL AND SPORTING NOTES ON ENVIRONS OF QUEBEC. 188»
EXPLORATIONS IN EASTERN LATITUDES, by Jonathan
Oldbuck, F. tt. S. Q.  1889-
rKKNCH.
L'ORNITHOLOGIE DU CANADA, (2 vol. in-80)  1860
BSSAI SUR SIR WALTER SCOTT, poete, romancier, historien  1862
NAYIGATEURSARCTIQUES-Franklin^M'Clure-Kane-MoClintock. 1862
LES PfiCHERIES DU CANADA., (1 vol. in-80)  1863" -
MEMOIRE, DE MONTCAIxM, VaKOElSULypl. in-32i^,  . _.^ . 1865
L'ALBUM CANADIEN  I87Q
L'ALBUM DU TOURISTE  ¦  1873
CONFERENCE SUR L'ORNITHOLOGIE devant I'Institut Canadien,
Quebec  1874
NOTES HISTORIQUBS SUR IJSS RUES DE QUEBEC  '.. 1876 .
TABLEAU SYNOPTIQUE DES OISEAUX DU CANADA, i I'usage
des 6coles  I877 - '
JWONOGRAPHIES ET ESQUISSES, 500 pages  1886.
CHASSE ET PECHE, 300 pages  18871

Orders filled by

C. E. HOLIWELL,
Bookstore,
Opposite Post Office, Quebec,

'tsr^

i'^K

'<\':iyiil\i

-^ -VS.