YALE UNIVEBS 3 900207156 1931 1 . .',.''' V- 1% m ^ifcpii m •\ t- i 7 YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Purchased from the income of the bequest of WILLIAM ROBERTSON COE Honorary M.A. 1949, for material in the field of American Studies. History of St Paul and Vicinity A Chronicle of Progress and a Narrative Account of the . Industries, Institutions and People of the City and its Tributary Territory BY HENRY A. CASTLE VOLUME II ILLUSTRATED THE LEWIS PUBLISHING COMPANY CHICAGO AND NEW YORK 1912 ¦*;];;:: 'ViB'-ls-aiitilsblsif : > M > oPI>W-< St. Paul and Vicinity CHAPTER XLII THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS St. Paul's First Schools — First Public Schoolhouse — Pioneer Public School Teachers — High School and Board of Educa tion — SCHOOLHOUSES OF THE FIFTIES— SUPERINTENDENTS OF PUB LIC Schools—The St. Paul High School — Present Public School System— For Those Who Must Cut Their Schooling — Physical Conservation and Safety — "The Little Red School" —Private and Select Schools — Public Schools as Social Cen ters — Another New Departure. Few cities of a corresponding population are so well supplied with educational facilities as St. Paul. There are fifty-six public schools, in cluding four new high schools. St. Paul has fifteen colleges ; a large number of exceptionally successful Catholic day-boarding schools ; nearly a score of schools divided among various Protestant denominations (principally Lutheran) and several Hebrew schools. There are many business and commercial colleges, and a goodly number of private schools ranging from kindergartens to college preparatory. The enrollment in the public schools is over 28,500 and in other schools about 12,000, con stituting altogether nearly a fifth of the entire population. The University of Minnesota, one of the largest in the country, every year gaining in com pleteness of equipment, is situated just outside the city's border, and one department, the School of Agriculture, with its experiment farm, is within the city limits. The St. Paul Institute of Arts and Sciences, a recently established but powerful organization, is working along the most advanced lines to raise the standard of educational methods as well as of artistic and literary culture. The history of the city's progress in educational matters has been fairly well preserved. A fond parent, aiding a puzzled son with his algebra, often finds that "a" plus "b" divided by "x square" equals some things that have entirely faded from his memory, but the everyday events of his school days, divorced from the tedium of multiplication and syntax and the orthography of polysyllables, have a human interest that is un- forgotten and unforgetable. The pioneer children of earliest St. Paul, some of them still in the flesh, preserved their traditions ; their children and grandchildren made printed records. St. Paul's First Schools In 1845 Mrs. Matilda Rumsey established a small school for children in a log building on the bottom near the upper levee. This was the first school of any kind in St. Paul. At that time there were only about 453 454 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY thirty families in the place, half-breeds and all, and there were but few scholars in attendance. On the 2d of June of that year, Mrs. Rumsey married Alexander Mege, a Frenchman, and the school was discontinued. Shortly afterward an attempt was made by Mr. S. Cowden, Jr., to re open the Rumsey school, but the enterprise was soon abandoned. No records remain of either of these episodes; hence Miss Bishop's title to the primacy. In 1847, under the auspices of the Board of National Popular Edu cation, with a commission which covered the entire extent of territory "between Wisconsin and the Rocky Mountains north of Iowa down to the North Pole," Miss Harriet E. Bishop opened what must be regarded as the first regular English school in St. Paul. She thus describes her primitive schoolhouse : "On a commanding point, which is now the cor ner of St. Peter and Third streets, stood a log hovel with bark roof and mud chinkings, in size 10 by 12 feet; a limited space in one corner was occupied by a stick chimney and a mud fireplace. This room had, in its early days, served consecutively the triple use of dwelling, stable and blacksmith shop. When the shaky door swung back on its wooden hinges to admit the week day school, the Dakotas at once complimentively dubbed it "good book woman's house." From roof and walls came the fra grance of cedar boughs, which had charmed hideousness into a rural ar bor. On three sides of the interior of this humble log cabin, pegs were driven into the logs, upon which boards were laid for seats. Another seat was made by placing one end of a plank between the cracks of the logs, and the other upon a chair. This Was for visitors." The school opened early in August with nine pupils, only two of whom were white/ Nearly all of the seven others wore blankets. This proportion of pure whites and those with more or less of Indian blood was maintained for some time. Even when the attendance reached forty, only eight of the number were "pure whites." Only the elementary branches were taught. The "Good Book Woman" labored faithfully in the discharge of her duties. Bible reading was practiced daily. In a few months the number of scholars had increased to forty-two. First Public Schoolhouse In August, 1848, by the aid of citizens and the resident officers of Fort Snelling, a small but neat schoolhouse was erected near the north west corner of St. Peter and Third streets. The building was also used for church purposes. The task of raising funds to pay for this house was not an easy one. A ladies' sewing society aided very materially in the work. There were eight members of this sewing society and the names of five of them have been handed down to us. They were Miss Bishop, .Miss Harriet Patch, Mrs. Henry Jackson, Mrs. John R. Irvine, and Mrs. J. W. Bass. Mrs. Bass still lives in St. Paul. What a marvel ous transformation in educational methods and processes has this good lady witnessed! This struggling little school comprised all of Minne sota's educational facilities, which have expanded into a great system of schools, colleges and universities, with an invested school fund now amounting to $22,000,000, and destined, ultimately, to reach $100,000,000. The ladies met with success in earning money for the building and received fifty dollars from the officers at Fort Snelling. The lot was a donation from John R. Irvine. The specified object of the building was the accommodation of the school, church, court, occasional lee- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 455 tures, elections and all public assemblages. It was expected that an expenditure of three hundred dollars on a building 25 by 30 feet would suffice for at least ten years. The house was used for the various pur poses designated until 1851, when some of the religious denominations had churches of their own. It was burned in the fire of August, 1857, which swept the entire north side of Third street between Market and St. Peter. Prior to its destruction, • having become the property of the school district, and a debt of eighty dollars incurred in its construction remaining unpaid through the neglect, indisposition, or inability of the citizens to pay the school tax, it had been sold for debt. Pioneer Public School Teachers The legislative assembly of 1849 enacted a law for the establishment and support of common schools, but owing to the fact that the citizens failed to elect school trustees at the general election, no legal organiza tion was effected that year. The first meeting of citizens in reference to education, held in St. Paul, was on the evening of December 1, 1849, at which a provisional committee on schools was appointed, consisting of William H. Forbes, Edmund Rice, E. D. Neill, J. P. Parsons and B. F. Hoyt. This committee engaged Rev. Mr. Hobart to teach a "school for boys in the Methodist church on Market street, beginning December 10th. Miss Bishop was engaged to teach on Bench street, and Miss Scofield was engaged to teach in a school building to be erected in lower town. These teachers were engaged "until such time, as a legal organization of one or more school districts shall take place, but not to exceed three months." The compensation allowed was "three dollars per scholar by the quarter." The provisional committee on schools resolved "that the nec essary fuel for the several schools be obtained by subscription and when delivered, that the young men of the place be requested to meet at a given time and cut the same for use." Miss Scofield's school was on Jackson street, near Sixth, in a one story frame building 18 by 36 feet in area. The lot was donated by William H. Randall, and the building was paid for by subscriptions. There were now three schools, with room for one hundred and fifty pupils. Miss Julia A. Barnum, afterwards Mrs. • S. P. Folsom, taught this school in 1850 and D. A. J. Baker in 1851. In that year Mr. Baker, for forty years afterwards prominent in local politics, got a bill through the legis lature authorizing the trustees of school district No. 2 to confer college degrees. Against this Mr. Neill protested in his report as superintendent of schools, in the following year, declaring the law a burlesque and an infringement on the prerogatives of the regents of the State University. We have not been able to learn that the trustees ever conferred any degrees, or that the law has ever been repealed. High School and Board of Education In 1852 a high school was established and G. H. Spencer elected prin cipal. The room hired for the purpose was the third floor of Stees and Hunt's furniture store, corner of Third and Minnesota streets. There were also four primary schools taught by Misses Bishop, Sorin, Merrill and Esson. In 1853 tne public schools were taught by Miss Bishop, Mrs. Parker and Miss Esson. During the winter of 1853-4 Horace Bigelow, later a prominent lawyer of the city, taught the school on Jackson street, 456 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY and when his salary became due, the treasury being empty, the trustees borrowed the money to pay him at two and a half per cent per month. In 1856 an act was passed making St. Paul one school district, and creating "The Board of Education of the city of St. Paul," to consist of nine members, three from each ward. The mayor and president of the council, by provision of this act, were "declared ex-officio school in spectors." The board organized in June of that year and consisted of the following members : Mayor George L. Becker, and president of the council, William L. Ames; H. E. Baker, Theodore French, P. O. Fur- ber, William R. Marshall, Rev. E. D. Neill, Rev. A. M. Torbit, Par ker Paine and E. C. Palmer. When the board organized they found. neither funds nor buildings in their possession. SCHOOLHOUSES OF THE FIFTIES The Washington schoolhouse was erected in 1857, under the direction of Messrs. Paine, Torbit and Furber, at a cost of $8,433, and was dedi cated August 31st of that year. In order to have the house as large and commodious as seemed desirable, Parker Paine advanced the board $2,000. Many complained that the building was too large and even "larger than the necessities of the town would ever require." But so rapid was the growth of the school population that two more buildings were re quired the following year. Next came the Adams schoolhouse, at Tenth and Robert streets, which was erected in 1858, at a cost of about $8,000, and dedicated No vember 13. The Jefferson school was also completed this year and dedi cated a few weeks after the Adams. It fronted on Pleasant avenue, had about the seating capacity of the Adams, cost substantially the same, but was the more elegant structure. The cost of the site was $300 in city orders. The building burned in June, 1866, and the schoolhouse was subsequently rebuilt on another site at an expense of six times the origi nal cost of construction. All the schoolhouses thus provided were soon filled to overflowing. On January 31, 1859, the average daily attend ance was reported to be 682. Superintendents of Public Schools Upon the organization of the board in 1856, Rev. E. D. Neill was chosen secretary and treasurer, which office he held by annual reelection until his resignation in March, i860. His successor was Rev. John Mattocks, who continued to act as secretary and superintendent until September, 1872. Dr. Mattocks was not only an able educator, but was very efficient in his position, and his long term of service — a period of more than eleven years — indicates his popularity. His salary was at first $500 per annum, but it was subsequently increased to $600. Dur ing his term as superintendent he was pastor of the First Presbyterian church and faithfully discharged the duties of both positions. He died in November, 1875. In 1866 a separate school was established for the colored youth of the city, which, in 1869, was abandoned, by virtue of a law of the state. which made it a penal offense to maintain such a school. Gradually the organization of the schools was improved, and in 1867 there was a general examination of candidates for teachers. Since that date, with rare exceptions, no teachers have been allowed to enter on cc Xutn Xo u ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 457 the work of instruction in our schools without having passed a satis factory examination. In September, 1872, George M. Gage became superintendent of schools, and for the first time, in the history of St. Paul schools, the superintendent was required to give his whole time to the work. In September, 1874, Mr. Gage was succeeded as superintendent by Rev. L. M. Burrington, who, in 1878, gave place to B. F. Wright, a graduate of Union College, who brought to his work riper scholarship and wider professional experience than any of his predecessors. He was the first superintendent, after the establishment of the high school, whose scholar ship was adequate to its intelligent supervision. Major Wright served as superintendent until September, 1886, when he was succeeded by Prof. S. S. Taylor, who died March 18, 1889. His successor, Prof. Charles B. Gilbert, formerly principal of the high school, whose tenure continued until 1898. The Board of School Inspectors, in 1912, is composed of A. E. Horn, president; D. Wallblom, vice president; W. H. Egan, Emil Geist, O. E. Holman, W. E. Boeringer and Miss Mary Cunningham. Octave Savard is secretary. In 1912, Prof. A. L. He'eter, who had served for six years with great public acceptance as city superintendent of schools, acquiring distinction as a constructive educator and executive manager, resigned. Prof. Milton C. Potter succeeded him as superin tendent. The St. Paul High School The St. Paul High School which is an integral part of the city's pub lic school system, was practically in its incipiency in 1868, though it had been in existence for some years previously. In that year B. F. Wright was made principal and found only about a dozen pupils. This year the first public examination for the admission of pupils was held, and two classes were formed in the third story of the Franklin school building. Mrs. H. M. Haynes was made assistant. Up to this time no regular course of study had been prescribed for this department, but under Professor Wright it was thoroughly reconstructed and made available for any pupil desiring an advanced education. The school grew rapidly in numbers and in popular favor from the first. In 1872 the high school was removed to the corner of Seventh and Jackson streets. In 1883 the building was erected at the corner of Minnesota and Tenth streets. An addition of fourteen rooms was made in 1888. Pupils were received in this school from all parts of the city. The course of study is very thor ough and complete, embracing generally the higher English branches as well as Latin, Greek, German, French, music, etc. The full course occupies four years. There are fully equipped laboratories for the study of physics, chemistry and the biological sciences; indeed all the instruction in these courses is conducted on the laboratory plan, students doing the work and teachers guiding and aiding. This is as' true in history and literature as in chemistry, and the result is seen in the ready power which the student gains to attack and master new problems. In 1905, the capacity of the high school building was so outgrown that temporary branch schools were established in other localities and in 1909 the erection of four new high school buildings was commenced, in widely separated districts. When these are all completed and occupied, they will, with the manual training schools, and the teachers' training school, form a school system where the children of rich and poor alike can ac quire a thorough education. State official reports for 191 1 show that the 458 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY number of high schools in Minnesota has increased 80 per cent and the gain in high school enrollment has been 134 per cent during the last ten years. That is an encouraging development. The high school pupils in the state last year numbered 29,971, or 1.4 per cent of all the population. There were 5,051 graduated, an increase of 1,144 over the total for the preceding year. The reports also show that there not only is improve ment in the extent but the quality of instruction the young people of the state are receiving. Manual training is provided in 148 of the 207 high schools of the state and instruction in agriculture is given in 73. Present Public School System The public schools of the city are classified into five grades, viz. : The primary, the intermediate, the grammar schools, the manual train ing school and the high school. The primary schools are divided into two grades, the first and second ; the intermediate, into four grades, de nominated the third, fourth, fifth and sixth ; the grammar into two grades, the seventh and eighth. The manual training school is under the super vision of a principal and a full course occupies three years. The high schools are under the supervision of principals and the full course of study occupies four years. All of these schools are under stringent but whole some regulations. They are for the sole purpose of imparting thorough scholastic education and moral training to the pupils. Nothing is per mitted that may have a tendency to impair their efficiency. The teach ers are prohibited from awarding medals or other prizes to the pupils, and from receiving any presents or testimonials by subscription at the hands of those under their charge. They are required not to interfere in any manner with the religion of their pupils. No collection or sub scription for any purpose can be taken up in any of the schools. Regu lar monthly and annual reports are required from the principals show ing the condition of their several schools, giving the enrollment, average attendance, standing of the pupils, etc. The superintendent is also re quired to submit to the board reports at the end of each month and term, and at the close of each year. The public schools of the city represent property worth nearly four million dollars. They cost the city nearly a million dollars a year to maintain, and employ about seven hundred and fifty teachers, whose salaries range from $450 to $3,000. In progressive and modern methods these schools are fully abreast of the times, and are every year widening their scope and developing new lines of work. Courses is domestic science were established in 1912 in the Adams, Jefferson, Cleveland and Crowley schools. Other grade schools had this course previously. More and more the school and the schoolhouse is becoming an important factor in the life of the city and extending its influence to the manners, morals, habits of thought and mode of living of the children, and through them reaching families. Great advances are being made in school construction; and the new high schools have embodied the latest ideas in this type of building-. Clarence H. Johnston, the architect of the fine new Central High school. made a careful study of the best educational buildings in many other cities, and this school, now completed and occupied, besides being an exceptionally handsome structure, is sanitary, fireproof, light and con venient. In addition to the twenty-six recitation rooms, and ample lec ture rooms and laboratories, it has an auditorium 72 by 86 feet, with a ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 459 balcony, and with a stage 22 by 57 feet. It has dressing, scenery and property rooms ; a large gymnasium with shower and dressing rooms : a students' lunch room with kitchen and pantry, and all manner of rooms for domestic and manual training, including kitchen and dining rooms, sewing room, machine shop, forge room and foundry. It cost a million and a quarter dollars, and is a building of which not the school board alone, but the entire city may well be proud. The large space in the new Central High school devoted to the audit orium emphasizes the growing tendency to make the school the center of social life for the young people. Just as the grounds are equipped as playgrounds to be used after school hours and during vacation, so the students are encouraged to use the building for entertainments of all sorts, as well as outside classes and lectures. The progress of the school system of St. Paul from 1847-8 to 1912 has been in full proportion to the advancement of the city itself. Be tween Miss Bishop's little school in the old blacksmith shop, with its dilapidated floor and shaky door, its rude furniture and its baker's dozen of half-breed and half-civilized pupils, to the fifty-six magnificent struc tures of today, and the nearly 30,000 pupils in daily attendance upon them, there is a contrast which forms a subject for interesting reflec tion. It is, in it essential aspects, the contrast between barbarism and a high civilization. It marks the advance to loftier ideals — a recognition that Ye have plowed, ye have sowed, and the harvest shall be of its kind ; • What ye sowed ye shall gather and grind ; What ye grind ye shall bake, saith the Lord, and, or bitter or sweet, ¦ In the days that shall be, ye shall eat. And ye that have drained off the laugh from the mouths of the poor, Ye shall know that my coming is sure. And ye that have poisoned the strength of the children of men, 'What caverns will cover ye then? It is all embraced in the great scheme of things alluded to in a recent sermon, by Dr. Samuel G. Smith of the People's church, St. Paul: "This world is the raw material of a perfect civilization. People have had to work to make our civilization as good as it is now, but they will have to work a thousand times harder to achieve the civilization we ought to have. In our civilization, some seem to think that the best way is for a few to have nearly everything and the rest nothing, and that from time to time the rich should divide up and give to the poor. But this helps little. The best gift man can give to man is a real sense of human brotherhood. Give him an example — show him how to do things ; that's the best service you can render." For Those Who Must Cut Their Schooling With a view to achieving the greatest possible good from the grade schools, there is under consideration a plan for a readjustment of courses of study in the interest of pupils who never complete the high school , curriculum. The proposition is based on the fact that only a small percentage of the grade pupils complete the high school course; that its length is a discouragement, and an obstacle in the way of their getting as much out of the public school as they ought to get, or would get if it were operated with larger consideration for their needs and preferences. 460 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY - What the originators of this plan desired was to provide a course of study which should be properly balanced and adapted to the needs of boys and girls who quit school about the ninth grade or the end of the first year in the high school. It contemplates the introduction of manual training, domestic science and the elements of a commercial course as early as the seventh grade, the pupils from the seventh to the ninth to be taken care of in what has been spoken of as intermediate schools, thus relieving the crowded conditions of both the grade and the high schools without interfering with the work of either, so that pupils who wish to complete the regular high school course preparatory to college or univer sity may do so. A similar enlightened policy has dictated the opening, by the St. Paul board of education, of a continuation school for pupils under six teen years of age who are compelled to work and who have not completed the grade course in the public schools. This is an important provision of the compulsory education law and its strict enforcement is essential to the protection of the working children. Under the proposed system the working children who come within the provisions of the law will be given certain hours each day in school in order to do the study equivalent to a completion of the grade course in the public schools. The cooperation of employers, by which the little toilers will not lose any of their wages while attending the school for a few hours each day, is an important feature of the plan and should be secured without difficulty. Both the children and their employers will derive ultimate benefit by compliance with the terms of the plan. It is unfortunate that children under sixteen years of age should be compelled to become wage earners, but the evils of the condition will be greatly lessened by successful conduct of the continuation school. This is a practical, progressive age. We build buildings and make machinery to fit the purposes required. We save time and effort every where we can. We build machinery that is a marvel of ingenuity, sim plicity and efficiency. We take the curves' out of old railroads; lop off every pound of useless weight everywhere we can; simplify, correct, improve, standardize. But in many schools they are still lugging on ward the burden of the dead and buried past; still going back 1,400 years to find a dead language to teach our living ones from ; still emphasizing cultural subjects to the disadvantage of those that fitted directly for earning one's living. The educators and officers of school boards and tax-payers at large have for some time been considering the best means of benefitting, to the utmost possible extent, the ninety-six out of every one hundred grade school pupils, who never get into a college or univer sity. It is highly probable and highly appropriate that St. Paul shall be among the first cities to solve the knotty problem — our responsible school authorities having so resolved. The night schools, the manual training schools, the continua tion schools, the special courses in high schools, and the new Art Institute educational scheme, are all steps in the right direction. Attention is given to domestic science — cooking, housework, housekeeping, and sewing ; to shop work ; to afternoon and evening work along these lines in the high school buildings. An evening industrial school has long been carried on at the Mechanic Arts Hi^h school. Summer grammar and high school courses for special work have been opened, continuing six weeks. Vacation schools, which provide useful occupation rather than work, no books being used, have been main-. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 461 tained with marked success since the summer of 1908. The school gardens have proved an element of great interest and benefit, and their products were exhibited at the State Fair. Circulating libraries are main tained by the City Library in the elementary schools, and 55,000 books were thus circulated last year, representing a practical extension of the public library system, the importance of which St. Paul is one of the first cities to appreciate. Physical Conservation and Safety The systematic attention paid to sanitary and physical conditions by the medical inspector with a corps of trained nurses has been the means of solving some of the most perplexing of the problems confronting the educator ; and backwardness, idleness or apparent stupidity are often found to have their origin in congenital defects, illness or malnutrition, causes which can in many cases be overcome. A new field is opening up to the public school system in providing special departments for ex ceptional children, including not alone those who are so deficient that they gain little or nothing from the ordinary grade work and require in struction adapted to their individual aptitudes, but also - those children who are able to cover the ground more rapidly than the average student, and those who desire to spend more time on the practical training that will fit them for productive work. The school authorities in St. Paul have been alive to the impor tance of fireproof construction in school buildings. All of the high schools are fireproof and the grade schools constructed in recent years have been partially or wholly built of fireproof or slow combustible material. The reform is helped by the fact that lumber is constantly growing more expensive, as compared with cement and other fireproofing mate rials. The saving in insurance and repairs makes the fireproof school more economical in the long run. The safety of children, however, is the first essential and is to be provided, without reference to the com parative cost between fire traps and fireproof buildings. Thus, with all their drawbacks, the city's public schools have been making heroic efforts in the past few years to meet the needs of pupils. Education, especially along industrial lines, has done wonders to keep boys in school until their training is fairly well rounded. The schools, on the whole, are better than ever before. A large number of pupils not interested in books, but anxious to do things with their hands, now for the first time find a place in the schools. "The Little Red School" The public schools in St. Paul's flourishing suburbs, will be re ferred to in connection with their respective locations. The district, or country schools in the farming regions adjacent to the city, get an im petus from the splendid object lessons constantly visible so near at hand. Much praiseworthy sentiment clusters around the little red school. Our esteemed local rhymer Larry Ho sings of it: "The little red school with its one little room So close to the earth it could winnow the bloom Of the wild-rose that breathed its sweet breath on the day — Like the breath of that rose it goes drifting away! 462 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY "It may have been crude and old-fashioned, but then It had such a habit of mothering Men! It was certainly shy on Greek, Latin, and Art — But it soaked simple goodness and faith in the heart." Several states, including Minnesota, are trying to measurably put the little red schoolhouse out of business. The general idea is to consolidate some contiguous districts and not only to provide better equipment and instruction but to build a rural schoolhouse, in an attractive setting of lawn and trees, that will look as though it meant something besides mere shelter from rain — a building that may arouse sentiments of unity and of local pride and incidentally suggest to the passing eye that an L is not the last word in architecture. It may cost a little more; but the "pride of the cities" is not mere vanity or waste. The rural districts need more of this sort of pride; and they can well afford to pay for it, especially when the state helps them generously. The district schools, because of their isolation and their support by only a small territory, cannot make the desired changes alone. The way out is by consolidating several adjoining districts. Consolidated dis tricts, pooling their funds, can erect larger buildings, obtain completer equipment, employ better teachers and broaden and improve the course of instruction. To encourage the extension of this work this state has provided for special state aid to such consolidated districts. When more of the rural school districts of Minnesota take advantage of this oppor tunity, the rush of country boys and girls to the cities for an education will be checked, and no longer will the land be robbed so extensively of the men and women who are best fitted to work and to add to the wealth and insure the economic balance of the nation. Governor Eberhart of Minnesota, after a careful study of this scheme, gives it this unqualified endorsement in a newspaper interview: "I thor oughly believe the consolidated school is the solution of rural education, and will put it on a standard with the city. The first cost to the county or district seems a bit large, but considered in the light of the future it is little. I find that attitude growing. I intend to give my support to the project, and hope consolidated schools will be established in scattered parts of the state. Once under way, I have no doubt, the plan will be generally adopted." Ramsey county has a superintendent of schools whose jurisdiction extends to all the public schools outside the city limits of St. Paul. The teachers and pupils of these schools meet en masse at certain intervals. in North St. Paul or White Bear, where very interesting competitive exercises are had, with marked benefit to all. Private and Select Schools Supplementing the excellent and extensive public school system, St. Paul has about sixty private and select schools, parochial schools, semi naries and academies, with an estimated attendance of 17,000. The schools connected with the Catholic church are referred to in the chapter cover ing that subject. The Lutheran church also maintains separate enter prises. There are several successful business schools and colleges. The Eleanor Miller School of Expression is doing admirable work along special lines. Oak Hall is a large and popular boarding and day school for girls ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 463 ranging from kindergarten to the academic department and including valuable courses in art, music, domestic art, .physical training and danc ing. Owing to the limited number of pupils the individual student re ceives special attention. St. Paul Academy, a preparatory day-school for boys, receiving only a limited number of students, is represented by its alumni in the University of Minnesota and in a number of the prin cipal eastern colleges, among them Yale perhaps being the favorite. A list of the educational facilities of St. Paul would be incomplete without a reference to the most helpful work done by the Young Men's and the Young Women's Christian Associations, in both which institutions classes in a large variety of subjects are conducted at convenient hours. The numerous and highly valuable activities of the St. Paul Institute, covering various branches of instruction, have full recognition in the concluding paragraphs of this chapter, and in another chapter, which narrates some of the achievements of that meritorious enterprise. Public Schools as Social Centers The rules under which the public schools of St. Paul were operated during several decades rigidly prohibited the use of school buildings "for any other purpose than for secular education." There has, however, within the past few years, grown up a strong sentiment in favor of a wider useful employment of these public resources. It is claimed that the new idea of a schoolhouse social center will eventually unhorse the interests by developing a stronger "machine" than that now controlled by them. The civic center movement has undertaken to make the schoolhouse the underpinning of the American political system. It is felt to be impos sible to beat the existing political machines, in any important and decisive manner, by mere casual crowds of dissociated voters with vague long ings for a higher political life. The present bi-partisan machine, rep resenting the special interests, it is alleged, cannot possibly be superseded by anything less than a pan-partisan machine, representing the general interests of civilization. One advocate says: "This is the machine age — an age in which rival machines contend for supremacy like young bulls in a pasture. The polit ical machine that manufactures laws for Americans at the present writing will be junked and scrapped within a decade by a better machine, finer grooved, higher powered and yielding an infinitely more serviceable product." Anything that promises so desirable an uplift may very properly have its inception in our public school buildings after hours. All good citi zens will watch the result of the innovation with a friendly interest. Another New Departure Recurring to the St. Paul school system, allusion may be made to a very decided step in advance which was announced in September, 1912, by Milton C. Potter, superintendent of the city schools, and C. W. Ames, president of the St. Paul Institute. After many months of study and planning, arrangements have been completed for a great enlargement of educational opportunities by the co-operation of the school board, the Institute, the University of Minnesota and the St. Paul Builder's Ex change. These organizations working together provide, in the six months be- 464 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ginning in October, courses in elementary and high school and university subjects and in the trades, the classes being held evenings so as to ac commodate boys and girls who have had to give up regular schools to go to work; men and women who are busy daytimes in offices, shops, fac tories or homes ; teachers ; women of leisure — in short, all ambitious per sons who wish to improve themselves in order to increase their skill and their wages. The new scheme has been placed under the general super vision of Professor Julian C. Bryant, whose long and eminently success ful career as an educator in St. Paul, gives assurance of energetic, intel ligent management. Credits will be given for all completed work, exactly as though it were done in the corresponding day classes in the public schools or the university. The combination will give St. Paul a common school and higher educational system which will not exclude any one, young or old. It will make the city educationally eminent. For several years the St. Paul Institute has conducted evening courses in elementary, high school and industrial subjects, in addition to its art school, and has added thousands to the wages of workers in the city. These classes have been held in various school buildings. Now, how ever all the work of the Institute — and the whole new supplementary education plan will be under Institute auspices — will be concentrated in the new Mechanics Arts high school building, a magnificent structure re cently erected by the city at Robert street and Central avenue, where this splendid institution, which has been largely developed to its present fine proportions by its principal, Prof. Weitbrecht, is at last adequately housed. In that building more than a thousand — -possibly 2,000 or 3,000 — young men and women and adults will assemble for their classes, in every department of instruction provided in the daytime by the public schools and the freshman and sophomore years at the State University. Youngsters will wrestle with the "three R's;" foreigners will perfect their knowledge of the English language; young men and women will study higher mathematics, languages, sciences, business courses, includ ing shorthand, typewriting, bookkeeping and business law; craftsmen will take machine shop work, mechanical drawing, sheet metal work, elec tricity, plumbing and ventilating, architectural drawing and similar courses, and those seeking a college training will take the university courses, such as economics, literature, geology, languages, history, pub lic speaking, psychology, sociology, accounting, advertising, salesman ship and commercial credit. The aim of the Institute and of the university extension bureau is to take all of this education to the people at a very moderate cost. They have been able to realize this aim because of the co-operation of the St. Paul school board. In the past the board has provided cer tain school buildings, heated and lighted, for Institute classes recog nizing in them an effective "continuation school" reaching thousands of working people — children and adults — who otherwise would be unable to get "schooling." Last year alone the Institute classes had more than 1,200 members. The expense of a physical plant thus eliminated, and the Institute bearing most of the expense of securing teachers, the tuition fees have been reduced to a very moderate figure. And thus has been achieved, by intelligent and persistent co-operation, one of the most promising educational enterprises the city has ever known. CHAPTER XLIII COLLEGES AND UNIVERSITIES Germ of Higher Education— Development of High and Pre paratory Schools — The University of Minnesota — The Agri cultural College — Hamline University — Macalester College — Field for Smaller Insitutions. The subject of "Higher Education" takes on an aspect in the twen tieth century very different from that which it bore only a few decades previously. Governor and University President Woodrow Wilson of New Jersey said, in an address at St. Paul in May, 191 1 : "The nation does not consist of its leading men. It consists of the whole body of the people. You never heard of a tree deriving its strength from its buds, or its flowers, but from its roots." Adopting that view, the higher education of today is more concerned 'with the many than with the few; is more intent on the general advancement of the average man and woman, than on the special advancement of so-called and self-consti tuted "leaders" in society, politics, or finance. When Rome was overwhelmed by the barbarians fourteen hundred years ago, the then existing civilization almost all vanished from the earth; nearly everything of an educational nature was swept away. Here and there, in the monasteries and other harbors of refuge, some germs of culture survived the six hundred years of the deepest black ness of the Dark Ages, and when humanity began at last to lift itself out of barbarism, these germs of educational life began to show their vitality, beginning with the establishment of Oxford University about 1,000 years ago, followed by the Universities of Paris and Bologna about the year 1200. The establishment of certain great centers of what then passed for education went on with increasing rapidity throughout Europe, con stituting in part what is known as the "Revival of Learning." In its first days, this revival was a strange thing, in that there was so little of stored and garnered knowledge that a student might learn. There was almost nothing in the line of useful arts that might be studied. The languages of the countries then existing were poorly developed and about all that remained to which aspiring students might apply their intellects was the study of Greek and Latin. Indeed, all the learning of the time being embalmed in these languages, there was practically no door open to the student except by the study of these ancient tongues. -There being so few real, live, actual subjects for study, the newly awak ening mind of humanity sought a field for its activities in the discussion of wholly useless subjects, such as the inquiry into how many angels might be able to stand on the point of a needle. 465 466 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY It was more than four hundred years after the establishment of the ancient universities before any successful attempt was made to spread education among the people. Century after century rolled away after the universities began teaching Latin and Greek and debating the size and physical movements of angels, while mankind remained so ignorant that not even the emperors could read or write. In some jurisdictions, under the benefits of clergy, men who had been convicted of crimes were excused from punishment if they were able to read. Germ of Higher Education Something like the modern view of education appeared in Sweden and Holland, about 1600, and the introduction of public schools in Amer ica followed shortly upon the settlement of the different portions. But in the last fifty years, the efforts that have been expended, far exceed all that had gone before. So amazingly prevalent was the belief in the superlative importance of Latin that the first public schools in Massa chusetts did not teach pupils how to read English. The teachers claimed that it was not the province of English schools to teach the English language. In their view, the glory that was Greece and the grandeur that was Rome could only be assimilated into the soul-structure of pupils, by a systematic dietary of antepenultimates and ablatives abso lute. Development of High and Preparatory Schools In the first half of the nineteenth century, the old academy, which succeeded the colonial Latin school, was the principal institution of secondary education, and in most parts of the country this was not in cluded as a part of the free public school system. That higher education should be as free to the pupils desiring it as the branches taught in the common schools was not a generally accepted theory until a generation ago. Now, however, the public high school has become thoroughly established throughout the entire country. There is no question as to its necessity, although its curriculum is still in process of evolution. The classical high school is supposed to prepare students directly for college, but this object is not sufficient or satisfactory, because there are many pupils who do not care for any vocational training, who are not going to college and yet must find in the high school course their only education for the future. The regular college preparatory work does not supply the degree of general culture desired by. a large class of pupils. Many schools are now providing a much broader course, covering points of special interest by elective courses, which will give a well rounded education, largely in accordance with the individual taste of the pupil. Thus our educational system is breaking away from tradition; is rending the ties that bind it to "classical" ideals; is ceasing to regard Greek and Latin as an ultimate sine qua non. The high schools, which pave the way to entering the college and university, are each year open ing new paths, many of which solicitously avoid the time-honored foun tains of knowledge at which our learned predecessors drank to satiety — giving thereafter, it must be confessed, a very good accounting to man kind. The colleges and universities are gradually adjusting themselves to the situation. This is necessary, because some of the impatient high schools are conferring degrees, while the colleges are making strong pro- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 467 tests upon the subject. But so long as there is no legal standard as to the requirements of baccalaureate degrees there appears to be no way to debar a high school from a privilege often granted by special act of the state legislature, until public sentiment induces the authorities of the school voluntarily to resign their privilege. The course of study in the high schools was developed in rather a desultory fashion, each locality being a law unto itself in regard to its requirements, until within a comparatively recent period. Even the length of the high school term was determined largely by the funds in the local school treasury. It began with one year of higher studies after the grammar school and increased with more or less irregularity until the full four-year high school course has now become practically uniform throughout the nation. All this is preliminary to the avowal that in a community so richly endowed as St. Paul with educational facilities, it is exceedingly diffi cult to differentiate the various institutions of learning — to definitely establish the line, between the "school" and the college or university. There are twelve colleges and universities located here, in addition to numerous seminaries, collegiate institutes, professional or business in stitutions and the four splendid city high schools referred to in the last preceding chapter. Each of these, in its own way and within its legiti mate sphere, is doing a splendid work ; all are needed and all are wel come. The city high schools offer courses of study far superior to those required in many colleges of the last generation, whose equip ment consisted chiefly of a three-foot telescope, four ball-bats and a senior class yell. Our denominational colleges and universities rank high in wise administration and sound scholarship. And the great Min nesota University in Minneapolis, two miles from the city limits of St. Paul, cherished with pride and largely attended by our young people, opens its sixteen departments to our unconditioned patronage, marshal ing its five thousand students for our admiring observation. The University of Minnesota The University of Minnesota was established by the constitution of the state and endowed by the general government, and is an integral part of the state system of public instruction. It is open to both sexes. It was organized by an act of the territorial legislature of 185 1. In the period between that date and 1868, the date of final reorganization and the date from which the university reckons its beginning, there were several reorganizations, and a limited amount of work was offered in preparatory branches. A portion of the present site was secured in 1854. The price paid for the twenty-five acres secured at that time was $6,000. In 1858 the regents undertook the erection of a section of the main building. For many years this building stood with the east end closed up with rough boards, giving it a decidedly barn-like appearance, a sorry > monument to mistaken judgment. In 1864 the legislature decided that something must be done and appointed a board of three regents, giving them power to sell certain specified university lands and stumpage to pay the university debts. This board consisted of John S. Pillsbury and O. C. Meriman of Minneapolis and John Nicols of St. Paul. So faithfully did they do their work that when the legis lature met in 1867 they were able to report that the debt of the univer sity had been practically wiped out, and a considerable portion of the 468 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY lands placed at their disposal to satisfy the creditors of the institution remained unsold. The legislature of that year voted $15,000 for the repair of the building and commencing a course of instruction. This act reorganiz ing the university was signed by the governor February 18, 1868, and is counted the real charter day of the institution. On the 15th day of September, 1869, it was formally opened by the calling of the first col lege classes. The total enrolment for that year, including preparatory students, was 212, divided as follows: 138 men and 74 women. By this time the legislature had begun to realize that a real university had come into existence, and provided for the organization of the new departments of medicine and law. The university in its original or ganization provided for all departments that have since been formed, but no attempt to give instruction in the line of law or medicine was made until the fall of 1888. In 1873 the first academic class, two stu dents, graduated. pillsbury hall, state university Dr. W. W. Folwell, who was president of the university from its beginning down to 1884, labored wisely and well to lay. the foundation of the institution of which the state is justly proud. Many of the triumphs of later days are monuments of his foresight and vigorous policy. The year of 1884-5 was signalized by the accession of President Cyrus Northrop to the presidency of the university. What he achieved is a matter of current history. Former President Folwell retained a professorship and still serves the university. Dr. Northrop filled the presidential chair with distinguished ability until 191 1, when he was suc ceeded by Dr. G. E. Vincent. Dr. Northrop has the title of president emeritus. The university now comprises the following named colleges, schools and departments : The Graduate Department ; College of Science, Litera ture and the Arts ; School of Analytical and Applied Chemistry ; College of Engineering and the Mechanic Arts; School of Mines; Department of Agriculture, including the College of Agriculture, the School of Agri culture, the Dairy School and the Short Course for Farmers ; College of ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 469 Law ; College of Medicine and Surgery,- College of Dentistry and College of Pharmacy; College of Education; Department of Forestry; Geological and Natural History Survey. In the College of Science, Literature and the Arts there is a four years' course of study leading to the degree of Bachelor of Arts. The work of the first year is elective within certain limitations as to range of subjects from which the electives may be chosen. The remaining work of the course is entirely elective, with the provision that a certain number of long courses be selected. The course is so elastic that it permits the student to make the general scope of the course, classical, scientific or literary, to suit the individual purpose. The total enrolment in all branches of the university for the year ended July 31, 1909, was 5,066; for 1910, 5,369, and for 191 1, 5,530. There are 25 buildings on the campus proper and legislative provision has been made for a very large extension of the grounds and for many addi tional structures. / There is a well equipped astronomical observatory. The libraries con tain more than 100,000 volumes. The museums have a large amount of material that has been secured mainly with special reference to its use for illustrating the instruction in the various departments. These museums comprise geological, mineralogical, zoological and botanical collections, a museum of technology; also classical and 'English museums. There are museums maintained in the department of civil, mechanical, electrical and mining engineering, to illustrate the various processes and materials used in these departments. The new idea of the relation of the state to higher education was most intelligently and forcefully presented in President Vincent's inau gural address. That address gives the keynote to the new administra^ tion. "The university campus," he said, "must be as wide as the bound aries of the commonwealth. Where truth is to be discovered or applied, wherever earnest citizens need organized knowledge and tested skill, there the university is on its own ground. The university sees as its members, not only the students who resort to the chief center, but the other thousands on farms, in factories, in offices, in shops, in schoolrooms and in homes who look to it for guidance and encouragement. It is fas cinating/to picture the possibilities of this widening sphere of higher edu cation as it makes its wayinto every corner of the state, frankly creating new needs and resourcefully meeting the constant demands." This en larged view of the relation of the higher education to the everyday life of the people is the assurance that our great university is to be more and more, as this policy comes into more effective play, a radiating center of serv ice to every class and station, to every variety of interest and occupa tion, and ¦ to contribute substantial and lasting benefits upon the whole commonwealth. And not only will it meet existing needs, but by its ad vanced position, its function of leadership, stimulate the thought and activities of the people to still larger use of their resources and their opportunities than have yet been conceived. The Agricultural College The distinctively St. Paul branch of the State University is the Agri cultural College. Not only is this college located at St. Anthony Park, in this city, but it owes its present importance to the persistent agitation of a few St. Paul men who in 1885 demanded that the agricultural feature. 470 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY then dormant and discredited, be made effective. The state owned the "farm," but it enrolled no students and conducted no experiments. The regents assumed that farming could not be taught in schools, and pro posed to absorb the funds specially intended for this purpose, the proceeds of federal land grants, into the general treasury for the benefit of classical and professional culture. The loud protest voiced by the objectors, who showed that agricultural schools had, even then, been successful, at least in Michigan and Mississippi, led to a new departure in 1888 with sur prising results. The attendance that year grew from nothing to 47, and has since steadily increased. In 1897 girls were admitted to the school on the same terms as the boys, and, beside the high school subjects which are taken in common, they are given work in the special lines of cooking, sewing, laundering and home-making. The instruction throughout the course, which covers a period of three terms of six months each, is so given as to bring prac tice and theory into close relations and to show the reasons for and the most expedient ways of doing things. The technical and practical train ing which students receive gives them the ability to study the problems of farm and home management which they are sure to meet at their own homes and make them better able to cope with all conditions of soil, or whatever problems they are to meet in after life. The school has gradu ated more than 1,000 students, over eighty per cent of whom are actually engaged in agricultural pursuits at the present time. The college course in agriculture is a regular four years' course and graduate students with a degree of B. Agr. Graduates of state high schools may enter this course and take the technical work of the School of Agriculture course and the College at the same time. The Dairy School was organized in 1892 for the purpose of giving instruction in the management of creameries and cheese factories. A year's work in a creamery or cheese factory is required as a condition of entrance to the course. The short course for farmers is an eight-weeks' lecture course provided by the faculty of the college and School of Agriculture for the benefit of farmers who are unable to attend the regular school course. The School of Traction Engineering is a four weeks' course for training men to manage engines and power machinery. The site of the college is the high wooded tract north of Langford avenue and adjoining the State Fair grounds. It embraces about 400 acres, and has ten extensive buildings. The total attendance, in all branches, is now nearly 2,000 a year. Descriptions of the College of St. Thomas and of St. Paul's Theo logical Seminary are given in the chapter devoted to the Catholic church and its institutions, as are those of many other educational enterprises conducted in this city, under the auspices of that prelacy. Hamline University Hamline University, one of the most extensive and prosperous insti tutions of liberal learning in the state, is located in spacious grounds on Snelling avenue, a few blocks north of University avenue. Its charter was approved by the governor of the territory of Minnesota, W. A. Gor man, on April 3, 1854. The preparatory department was opened at Red Wing, Goodhue county, November 16, 1854, under the principalship of Rev. Jabez Brooks. In 1857 the enrolment of the institution reached 220, indicating a marked degree of prosperity. At the close of that year ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 471 Rev. Jabez Brooks resigned the principalship on account of ill-health and Rev. B. F. Crary was chosen to fill the vacancy. On the 17th of July, 1 861, Dr. Crary resigned to accept the office of superintendent of public instruction, and Rev. Jabez Brooks, D. D., was elected to take his place. The course of study in the meantime had been enlarged to collegiate grade. The university continued in successful operation until 1869, when the income being inadequate to meet the expenses and liabilities ac cumulated to such an extent as to compel the trustees to close the school and sell the property to pay the indebtedness. This suspension was de signed to be temporary only, but a change of location having been de termined upon, two years passed before that question was fully settled. The board had scarcely commenced the new building at St. Paul, in the suburb named Hamline, when the crisis of 1873 greatly crippled their efforts and finally suspended operations entirely. At the Rochester con ference held in 1878, it was resolved to push the work and Rev. John Stafford was appointed agent. By his indefatigable labors the building was completed and ready for occupancy September 22, 1880, when, after eleven years of suspension, the school was reopened with an attendance of sixty pupils on the first day. The first faculty, under the reorganization, consisted of Rev. D. C John, D. D., president and teacher in mental and moral science; Rev. C. F. Bradley, A. M., B. D., in Greek and Latin; E. F. Mearkle, A. M., LL. B., natural sciences and higher mathematics; Helen Sutherland, A. M., mathematics and English branches; John Ickler, A. B., German; J. M. Lichtenberger, elocution; F. W. H. Priem, vocal and instrumental music; Mrs. T. E. Knox, drawing and painting. Talbot Jones, M. D., lecturer on physiology and hygiene. Mrs. M. E. Tidball was matron. The board of officers, at the same period, was composed of Hon. H. R. Brill, president; Rev. J. F. Chaffee and Hon. H. B. Wilson, vice pres idents ; Rev. S. G. Smith, A. M., secretary ; E. J. Hodgson, treasurer. Executive committee: Hon. H. R. Brill, Rev. J. F. Chaffee, Rev. D. C. John, Rev. S. G. Smith, A. M., Rev. John Stafford and Hon. H. B. Wil son. In 1884 Dr. George H. Bridgman was chosen president of Hamline, and soon displayed those eminent qualifications which, during his twenty- seven years, incumbency, raised the institution to its present high rank. The college had not yet fully emerged from the clouds which had long hovered over it. Operations had been resumed and friends were hope ful, but there was still serious financial distress. With no money and no resources of any kind to work with, it was an unpromising proposi tion. But Dr. Bridgman took hold of it with courage and what there is of Hamline today, with its endowment and resources of nearly a million dollars, including the last fund of $200,000, is his work. This a sufficient testimonial of what men of affairs and friends of education have thought of his work and of the aims and purposes and standards he stood for in higher education. Dr. Bridgman resigned the presidency in the summer of 191 1, to take effect at the close of the collegiate year in June, 1912. The date when his resignation is to take effect was set a year ahead in order to enable the trustees to have ample time to find a successor; but the discontinu ance of his connection with the university will not be complete even then, as the trustees, in recognition of the work he has done and as an expres sion of their confidence and esteem, have provided that upon the qualifi- 472 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY cation of his successor for active service Dr. Bridgman shall become president emeritus. In announcing Mr. Bridgman's retirement, the St. Paul Pioneer Press voiced a unanimous public sentiment in this editorial tribute to his char acter and services : "He will retire with the respect and good will of generations of students who hold him in highest regard, while the people of St. Paul and Minneapolis, among whom he has mingled for more than a quarter of a century, will hope that he may remain long with them as an influence for the best things. One thing that has contributed much to Dr. Bridgman's success and to the esteem in which he is held is his catholicity of spirit, his broad sympathy, his responsiveness to the de mands of duty and opportunity, no matter from what quarter they have come." Dr. Samuel F. Kerfoot of South Dakota was chosen president to succeed Dr. Bridgman and assumed the duties July i, 1912. The catalogue of Hamline University, 1910-n, reports 251 students in the collegiate department and 56 in the preparatory, a total of 307. Assisting President Bridgman are fourteen professors, with twelve as sistants and instructors. There are twenty-one trustees, including Judge Hascall R. Brill, an early alumnus and life-long friend of Hamline; Bishop Mclntyre, B. F. Nelson, M. G. Norton, Rev. William McKinley, Hon. J. M. Hackney and other well known citizens. The officers of the board are : Hon. Matthew George Norton, president ; Benjamin Franklin Nelson, first vice president ; Hon. James Thomas Wyman, second vice president; Samuel Skidmore Thorpe, secretary; Erastus Fletcher Mear- kle, LL. D., treasurer. The preparatory department was closed in June, 191 1. For it was substituted instruction in certain "sub-freshman" classes, corresponding to the former fourth year preparatory. The university offers courses leading to the degrees of Bachelor of Arts and Bachelor of Philosophy. The work required to gain either of these degrees is planned to extend through four academic years. In the summer of 1907 the new library building was erected. It is in the style of the English school architecture and constructed as it is of light brown brick with a red tile roof, it is an ornament to the college campus and an improvement to the suburb of Hamline. It is built throughout in the most perfect manner, is lighted by electricity, and is strictly fireproof. There is a large central reading room in addition to the stack rooms at either end. This fine addition to the group of college buildings was made possible through the generous gift of $30,000 by Andrew Carnegie, while a like sum was raised by the friends of the uni versity for its maintenance and the development of the library resources. The Biological department is especially well equipped with laboratory facilities. On the second floor of .Science hall, looking south, are the various rooms of this department, including a large and well lighted gen eral laboratory and a smaller laboratory for advanced students ; a prepara tion room ; photographic dark room ; department library ; shop ; cloak room; the professor's office and lecture room. The equipment of the laboratory consists of compound microscope, dissecting tools, microtomes and the usual reagents and glassware for anatomical and histological work. In November, 1909, the gymnasium, erected at a cost of $35,000 con tributed by a large number of friends of the university, was dedicated. The building stands on the east side of the campus facing Simpson ave- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 473 nue ; is used by the students for all their smaller gatherings, and serves, also, as a trophy room. Through the generosity of the Hon. .Matthew G. Norton, president of the board of trustees, an admirable athletic' field, with all modern improvements, was added in 1906 to the physical cul ture equipment of the institution. It is located but one block from the university campus. It is provided with all necessary facilities for base ball, football, and track athletics. There is, also, a grandstand with a seating capacity of seven hundred and a number of dressing-rooms for the use of contestants. There are eight literary societies in connection with the college — the Philomathean, Amphictyon, Phi Alpha and Euphronian are for men; the Browning, Athenean, Alpha Phi, and Euterpian, for young women. Stu dents are urged to take advantage of the opportunities afforded by these societies. Frequent public literary exercises, also, add their stimulus to growth in thought and expression. Debating is made a prominent feature of the programmes of the weekly meetings of these literary societies. The women's dormitory is named Goheen hall in honor of Mrs. Anna Harrison Goheen, who has the distinction of being the most generous patroness of Hamline University. The building is capable of accommo dating about seventy young women. It is one hundred feet north and south, and, in consequence, all students' rooms, except three, receive fully either the morning or the afternoon sunlight. Macalester College Macalester College is the outgrowth of the Baldwin School of St. Paul, projected by Rev. Edward D. Neill, D. D., as far back as 1853 ; and of a similar institution opened in 1873 by the same gentleman in Minneapolis. The original St. Paul building stood on ground now occupied by the post office. It was dedicated December 29, 1853, by a banquet at which ad dresses were delivered by Rev. E. D. Neill, Charles J. Hettniss, Mr. Hol- linshead, Governor Gorman, John P. Owens, T. M. Newson, Morton S. Wilkinson, Rev. T. R. Cressey, George L. Becker, W. G. Le Due and others. The name of the school was given it as a compliment to Hon. Matthew W. Baldwin, of Philadelphia, the principal donor to the build ing fund. In January, 1854, the school had seventy-one pupils and was in successful operation. In 1874 Charles Macalester, of Philadelphia, donated to this school the valuable property known as the Winslow House, near the Falls of St. Anthony, with the understanding that' as soon as possible it should be developed into a college. In his honor the institu tion was named Macalester College. Until 1880 it was an undenomina tional school. In October of that year it was adopted by the synod of the Presbyterian church of Minnesota. In 1883 a syndicate of the trus tees bought the present site at Macalester Park on Snelling avenue in the midway district, and gave it to the board of trustees. The first build ing thereon was erected in 1884 and the college was opened September 15, 1885. Rev. Dr. Neill, the founder of the college, was born in Philadelphia in 1823 and graduated from Amherst in 1842. After completing his theological studies under Rev. Albert Barnes he came west, and in 1849, commissioned by the presbytery of Galena, Illinois, came to St. Paul as a missionary to the whites. Thereafter until his death (except during the Civil war) he devoted his time about equally to the work of the Chris tian minister and to that of an educator. He was the first territorial 474 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY superintendent of public instruction and the first chancellor of the State University. He is the author of "Neill's History of Minnesota," and also of two volumes of valuable historical monographs. He died Sep tember 26, 1893. Rev. Daniel Rice, D. D., gave years of devoted service to Macalester College, as professor and trustee. Other St. Paul men who were active in building it up in its struggling years were H. J. Horn, H. L. Moss, Major B. F. Wright, Henry M. Knox, Alexander Ramsey, R. P. Lewis, H. K. Taylor and Thomas Cochran. Dr. James Wallace, presi dent from 1894 to 1906, was the chief burden-bearer during a critical period of debt and despondency. But finally, with the energetic assist ance of Robert A. Kirk, Theodore Shaw and R. C. Jefferson, funds were raised to pay the debts. Dr. James Wallace resigned the presidency in June, 1906, and in macalester college January, 1907, Thomas Morey Hodgman of the University of Nebraska was elected president. By June, 1909, a fund of $450,000 had been pledged, all of which except $25,000 has now been paid and invested in buildings or securities. Of this total, $150,000 has been expended in Wallace hall and Carnegie Science hall and $300,000 has been set aside for endowment. The chief gifts to this fund were $75,000 from the General Educational Board; $45,000 from Andrew Carnegie; $50,000 from James J. Hill; $50,000 from Frederick Weyerhaeuser, and over $100,000 from the trustees. The Board of Trustees consists of twenty-one members. Thomas Shaw is president of the board, and B. H. Schriber, secretary. Presi dent Hodgman serves as professor of mathematics. There are seven teen professors, associate professors and instructors. The catalogue for 1910-11 enumerates 308 students of the College, Baldwin School and the Musical Institute. The purpose of Baldwin School which is the corporate name of the preparatory department of Macalester, is to give four years of thor- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 475 ough preparation for the standard college courses and to provide a good general education for those who cannot continue their studies further. The educational standards and requirements of Baldwin School have secured for it the right to be accredited to the North Central Association of Colleges and Secondary Schools. The main building of Macalester College is of brick, one hundred feet long and fifty feet wide, three stories high with basement, contain ing class rooms, society halls, men's gymnasium, library, reading room, auditorium and executive office. The building is heated by steam and provided with its own electric light plant. The library contains about eleven thousand nine hundred volumes, not counting duplicates, most of it classified on the Dewey system. The department of bound periodi cals at present contains more than eleven hundred volumes, not count ing duplicates. There are .many works in Puritan and colonial history and theology, and in early American travels, together with examples of fifteenth and sixteenth century printing and valuable autograph letters. For greater security this collection has been removed to the museum room in Science Hall. A large room on the third floor affords excellent accommodations for both library and reading room. Wallace hall is a new building for women, situated at the corner of Summit and Macalester avenues, sixty by one hundred and twenty-seven feet, and so arranged that sunlight falls into every room. In additioon to the students' rooms there are parlors, a dining room that seats ioo and a gymnasium in the basement. The building is absolutely fireproof. The Carnegie Science hall is a three story building with a full height basement. It is constructed of reinforced concrete and brick. The exterior is of colonial brick with trimmings of Bedford limestone. There is a lift from the basement to the attic. The interior finish and furniture are of birch. The basement is devoted to shops. These shops are well lighted and ventilated, having full length windows and a high ceiling. The woodshop occupies the large room in the north wing and has ad joining it a finishing room for staining, filling and varnishing. The south wing contains a laboratory shop connected with the physics de partment and a metal shop which has adjoining it a forge and grinding room which is also equipped with a crucible furnace and moulding sand for making small castings. The physical laboratories occupy practically the entire first floor of Carnegie Science hall. There are two large labo ratories, one for general physics and the other for electricity. Each of these has a smaller laboratory adjoining for special research work. In connection with this department there is in the basement a shop equipped with special tools for the production of apparatus for research work. The campus contains forty acres with a frontage of six hundred and sixty feet on Summit avenue — the fine boulevard two hundred feet in width which connects the Twin Cities. The college buildings, eight in number, are situated on the north half of the campus, while the ample athletic field, grove of oaks and ice skating rink occupy the south ern half. The men's dormitory is a three-story brick building, ninety feet long by thirty-eight feet wide. The second and third floors contain twenty double rooms designed to accommodate two students each. The rooms are furnished with plain, substantial furniture, are well lighted and thoroughly comfortable. This hall is for men exclusively. Edwards hall is a substantial three-story dormitory for men, on Macalester avenue, one block south of the college. It is named after W. C. Edwards, 476 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY of St. Paul, through whose liberality it was erected. It furnishes ac- i commodations for twenty-two men and sets tables for forty. Provision for the encouragement and development of outdoor athletics has been made by the construction of the Thomas Shaw Athletic field. This contains four acres of the campus lying directly south of the main building and is inclosed by an iron fence. A quarter mile track twelve feet wide with turns on a hundred foot radius is one of the important features of the field. This track is on a dead, level and has a founda tion of coarse cinders five inches deep on top of which is a layer of fine surfacing cinders two inches deep. The part of the field inclosed by the track is laid out as a football and baseball field and also provides room for an outdoor basketball field. The following publications are issued from the cotlege : The College Catalogue, which is one number of the Macalester College Bulletin, an eight page monthly paper devoted to the advertisement and advancement of the institution; the Y. M. and Y. W. C. A. Handbook, a booklet full of information for new students, and a veritable vade mecum for all. and Junior Annual, a yearly publication devoted to college interests and published by the junior class of the college. In explanation of the emphasis placed on Bible study in the Macalester curriculum, the authorities say: "The church is entering on the era of the laity. Christianity is girding itself for the conquest of the world. Her call for workers is louder and more engaging than ever before. Her field is ripe for lay-workers of every kind, for mission aries and missionary teachers, for mission helpers, charity workers, pas toral assistants, secretaries in the Young Men's and Young Women's Associations, Bible readers, colporteurs and the like. To these classes of lay-workers the theological seminaries are not open. Besides, a train ing in the knowledge and use of the Bible is best secured in connection with the regular courses of study offered by the college." Field for Smaller Institutions How the denominational colleges in St. Paul can flourish in such immediate proximity to the enormously endowed State University, has long been a question. It has been especially insistent since the coming of a vigorous young president, with an all-embracing power, to that cen tral institution. President Vincent spoke a foreword to the solution at Fargo when addressing the Minnesota alumni of that section. He does not propose that the university shall be in competition with the colleges. He proposes to withdraw the university, and not to withdraw the col leges from the competition. .To make the university a university, in the larger sense of teaching and not the larger sense of classes and numbers, is his solution of the difficulty. The reduction of membership in the freshman and sophomore classes, the centering of strength on the higher classmen, and no doubt, on graduate work, is proposed. He says: "Let the smaller educational in stitutions make their call heard to these classes, but I sincerely hope that within the near future we may be able to devote all our best energies to the larger development of the men and women of the two upper classes." This broad and cheerful readjustment of functions promises well for the colleges, for the university and for the educational interests of the great northwest. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 477 Other colleges and collegiate institutions in St. Paul, some of them well-endowed and rapidly growing into useful prominence, each under the auspices of a devoted local or denominational clientele, are enumer ated as follows: Concordia College, corner St. Anthony and Syndicate avenues. Prof. Theodore Bueringer, president. Luther Seminary (German), Earl street, corner Hyacinth. Or ganized in January, 1885. Rev. Henry Ernst, D. D., president. Luther Seminary (Norwegian), corner Capitol and Hamline ave nues. Rev. O. E. Brandt, president; Rev. H. G. Stub, D. D., secretary. Seminary of the United Norwegian Lutheran church, St. Anthony Park. Rev. M. O. Bockman, president; Carl Weswig, secretary. St. Paul College of Law, 60 East Fifth street. Hon. G. L. Bunn, dean; C. W. Halbert, secretary. Bethel Academy, 1320 County road, under the auspices of the Swed ish Baptist church. Rev. Orvid Gordh, principal. CHAPTER XLIV LIBRARIES AND LITERARY SOCIETIES Mercantile Library and Young Men's Christian Association — Consolidated as St. Paul Library Association — Made a City Library — Proposed Extension of Usefulness — Other Libraries — The Informal Club — German Society of St. Paul — Como Park as a "Melting Pot." In the laudable effort of the busy people of St. Paul to develop her material interest, the literary, artistic and social concerns have not been neglected. There are many libraries and literary and art classes or clubs abound, having in view hard work, honest study and real advance ment in their respective lines — not a simpering pursuit of the fads of the hour. At the theaters appear the best attractions which the dramatic and musical world can offer. On the lecture platforms the greatest thinkers of the day have been proud to stand. In the churches, varied enough to suit all beliefs, are to be found ministers of national reputation. Mercantile Library and Young Men's Christian Association The beginnings of our splendid public library date back to the terri torial days, when voluntary effort laid its sure foundations. On Sep tember 16, 1857, the Mercantile Library Association was organized and started out with a reading room and about three hundred books on its shelves, mostly the contribution of its friends. It was conducted with success for six years, under this organization, accumulating over a thou sand well-selected books, maintaining a reading room which was well patronized and getting up two or three interesting courses of lectures. The Young Men's Christian Association was organized in 1856, and kept open a free reading room until 1858, when the reading room was given up. In 1861 the association procured a room and opened a cir culating library with about five hundred new books. The list of books was increased from year to year, and when the union of the two libra ries occurred the Young Men's Christian Association had about one thousand volumes. Thus, in this little city of 10,000 people, there were two associations, each asking the support of the public for the same objects, each having its friends, and each, in a measure, a rival of the other. A consolidation was proposed, and delegates from the two bodies met on Friday evening, October 20, 1863. D. W. Ingersoll was chosen chairman and Charles E. Mayo secretary. The members present were D. W. Inger soll, H. M. Knox, George W. Prescott, E. Eggleston, W. S. Potts, D. D. 478 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 479 Merrill, H. Knox Taylor and T. D. Simonton, of the Young Men's Christian Association, and D. A. Robertson, William Dawson, J. P. Pond, R. F. Crowell, W. B. Dean, D. Ramaley, R. O. Strong and C. E. Mayo, of the Mercantile Library Association. Consolidated as St. Paul Library Association On motion of Mr. Knox the meeting proceeded to organize the St. Paul Library Association, on a basis adopted by the two societies. The following officers were elected to serve for the remainder of the year 1863 : D. W. Ingersoll, president ; D. A. Robertson, vice president ; C. E. Mayo, recording secretary; W. Dawson, treasurer; E. Eggleston, corresponding secretary and librarian. The first annual meeting of the association was held at the library rooms on the 19th of January, 1864, and the following officers elected for 1864; D. W. Ingersoll, president; D. A. Robertson, vice president; W. H. Kelly, secretary; W. B. Dean, corresponding secretary; William Dawson, treasurer; C. E. Mayo, E. Eggleston, George W. Prescott, H. M. Knox, Morris Lamprey, D. Ramaley and W. S. Potts, directors. The Library Association was thus launched on a career of pros perity and usefulness, which continued for nearly twenty years, or until it became a city institution supported by public taxation. The constantly growing library was maintained in Ingersoll block on Bridge square, the expenses being defrayed by the membership fees from patrons, and the funds for purchasing new books being raised by courses of lectures pro vided each winter by the directors. W. FL Kelly served as secretary for many years and among the presidents successively chosen were H. M. Knox, William B. Dean, Alexander Ramsey, Henry L. Williams, Henry A. Castle, Charles E. Mayo and C. C. Andrews. It will be noted that Rev. Edward Eggleston, afterwards famous as the author of "The Hoosier Schoolmaster," and other popular works, was one of the early and active promoters of this enterprise. The annual courses of lectures, at Ingersoll Hall or the Opera House, were important events in the literary and social life of the city. Season tickets were sold to individuals and families, also single admissions, and full audiences secured. Such orators and celebrities as Wendell Phillips, Horace Greeley, Henry Ward Beecher, John G. Saxe, Frederick Dou glass, Theodore Tilton, John B. Gough, Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony, Anna Dickinson, Thomas Nast, Robert Collyer, James Parton, Bayard Taylor, George William Curtis and Henry Vincent, appeared on the platform, under the auspices of the Library Association, to the mutual benefit of the community and the book fund. Made a City Library In 1882, laws having been passed by the state legislature authorizing the formation of public libraries, the City Library Board was created and the library was transferred by the association to that board, which has since conducted it as an institution freely open to all citizens, with constantly extending spheres of usefulness. The first library board consisted of men who had been active in the old association. The library was established on the fourth floor of the new court house, occupying four rooms — a library room proper, in which the books were placed; a reference room, where access was had to books of reference, which 480 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY were not allowed to be taken from the library; and reading rooms re spectively for ladies and gentlemen. These quarters were outgrown in a few years, and were likewise needed for other purposes. Accord ingly, in 1892 the library was removed to its present location, Wabasha and Seventh streets, where it remains, pending the contemplated erec tion of a permanent home commensurate with its importance. The total number of volumes in the library is over 118,000. The circulation in 191 1, was 405,245. The annual expense of maintenance is $58,550. The substations are: (A), Midway, Minnesota Transfer build ing; (B), 881 Payne avenue; (C), 549 Ohio street; (D), 930 Raymond avenue; (E), 152 Robertson street; (F), University avenue, northwest corner Kent; (H), 798 East Seventh street; (I), Y. W. C. A., Sixth street; (J), 1665 Grand avenue; (K), 719 N. Snelling avenue. The members of the library board, appointed by the mayor, now are: E. A. Young, president; R. E. Olds, vice president; J. C. Oehler, secretary; John D. O'Brien, Charles W. Ames, Rev. Carl Koch, J. Ditterihofer, F. A. Fogg and F. C. Clemans. Mrs. H. J. McGaine, who served as librarian for several years under the old association, has filled that position with marked efficiency ever since it became a public institution. Proposed Extension of Usefulness C. W. Ames, chairman of the library committee of the board in a re cent report, urges important extensions of the library's usefulness. The station circulation has been about 60,000 each year, and the circulation through the schools about the same number. It has cost about one and one-fourth cents a book. Several thousand dollars might be used for extension work. Mr. Ames says the library should have complete find ing lists and telephone service; should increase the number of its sta tions and should develop reading rooms wherever possible, with refer ence facilities. Specifically, it should have stations at the county jail, hospitals, city hall and like places ; in business establishments ; in the art schools; at Macalester, Hamline, Concordia, St. Thomas and other col leges ; at local commercial clubs ; newsboys clubs ; trades and labor as semblies ; at the Home for the Friendless, House of the Good Shepherd, Little Sisters of the Poor and in the public schools. Doubtless these im provements will come in the not distant future, as public sentiment cor dially sustains a progressive policy by the board. Meantime, certain wealthy and generous citizens have made condi tional offers of large donations, which, if the conditions are fulfilled, will lead to the early construction of a public library building, costing at least half a million dollars. Mayor Keller proposes that the city retain the valuable business property on which the library is now located, as a library asset, to help finance the undertaking and to yield a constantly argumenting income during all future years for the benefit of the en terprise. The mayor's suggestion brought out' clearly a sentiment against selling the old library property. That property, considering its location, will prove an inexhaustible gold mine for the library board. Such an asset simplifies greatly their administrative problem. If it can be done, everybody would favor leaving that property in such position that it may help to support the library. But if necessary to use the income in securing a new building the board will probably not hesitate. Books and documents which are priceless, from the fact that they cannot be replaced, are constantly subjected to the danger of destruction in the present build- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 481 ing. The Dispatch, in an approving comment, says further: "The sug gestion of Mayor Keller has much broader application than to the library merely. What is true of the advantages which must come to the library by retaining this property and securing its income in perpetuity is true of all valuable property coming to the city. It will be true of an immense tract of invaluable land if the big harbor project goes through." A New Development These suggestions of the mayor and others emphasized by the public press, inspired a general sentiment among the people, which prepared the way for a sudden and unforeseen movement in the Spring of 1912, which led to gratifying practical results. One day James J. Hill made the sur prisingly generous announcement that he was ready and willing to give the sum of $700,000 for the building and endowment of a reference library, science and religion over main door, new catholic cathedral (By Leon Hermant) which was, however, to be part of a general library project to be located on a site provided by the city or the citizens. Prompt measures were taken to meet the conditions of this munificent offer. By common con sent, the block of ground lying immediately south of Rice Park, bounded by Market, Washington, Third and Fourth streets, was agreed on as the site of the new library. A portion of it was already city property; Mr. Hill purchased another portion, and. by one of those spontaneous out bursts of public spirit which have made St. Paul famous, the $100,000 required to complete the purchase of the entire block was promptly sub scribed and paid in by enthusiastic citizens. i All classes of the people participated in the effort to raise this money, and made contributions. The federation of women's clubs took an active part. The federated grade teachers lent their organized aid. Pupils in the public schools contributed. Thus this project seems to have been 482 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY treated in the St. Paul manner. St. Paul needed a Y. M. C. A. building a long while before it was provided, but when it was undertaken it was carried through, so as to result in one of the finest edifices in the country, constructed for that purpose. St. Paul needed a large assembly hall a long while before it was obtained; but the Auditorium justifies the deli beration and effort made to secure it. St. Paul is greatly in need of a library — of both a building and a book collection. With respect to the latter, an excellent beginning has been made. With respect to the former, the effort now under way and the plan for subsequent steps give ample assurance that in the not far distant future, St. Paul will have a library as creditable a feature of our city, as either of the other two institutions named. But the people will not depend upon private funds for the building of a public library any more than for the building of a high school. Through the legislature, the city has been placed in a position to finance a new library building, by an issue of $400,000 bonds. No time was lost in securing the proper enabling statutes and amendments. Now the city itself will take hold of the situation with a firm hand and build this much needed public improvement. The library board has taken the prob lem up in earnest along these lines, and here is such a public response as will mean at once, a new building adequate to house and preserve St. Paul's fine collection of books of the present and of the future. Other Libraries The state library, or properly, the State Law Library, in room 218 of the Capitol, contain upwards of 68,000 volumes, and is constantly in receipt of additions. There are few legal works needed by the profession, for either study or reference which may not be found there, but their use is restricted to those who are content to peruse them within the library rooms. The State Historical Society also has a very valuable library described in another chapter. Both of these are purely libraries of reference. Most of the schools and all of the colleges have libraries for the use of teachers and scholars. There are likewise several libraries in the engine houses for the accommodation of firemen, and not a few of the societies and clubs have extensive and choice collections of books. Ham line University has a "Carnegie" library. The Firemen's Central Library organized in 1882 is at the corner of Main avenue and Ninth street, with 1,000 volumes. The Masonic Library has 2,500 volumes in its new build ing at Smith avenue and Sixth street. The Ramsey County Medical Society has 9,000 books. The United States circuit court of appeals has a law library at 431 Federal building, Dr. I. L. Mahan, librarian. The Polk Directory Library at 216 National German American Bank build ing, has a complete collection of city directories, state gazetteers, etc., which is of inestimable value in certain investigations. The Commercial Club maintains a library of statistical works, official reports and books on financial subjects ; also a reading room where all the leading newspapers and magazines are kept for the use of members. Some of our large manufacturing and mercantile concerns are estab lishing libraries for the use of their employees. The Young Men's and the Young Women's Christian Associations have libraries and reading rooms in their respective buildings. When we are told by philologists that the Indian languages were both ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 483 polysynthetic and agglutinous, we marvel at the limited scholastic achieve ments of our red predecessors. But since the beginnings of Anglo-Saxon settlement, St. Paul has always maintained its share of voluntary asso ciations for literary culture, study and discussion. Many of them have been of a somewhat ephemeral nature, vigorous and useful during their existence but passing away with the changed conditions in the residence districts, or with the lapse of interest in their active membership. The Informal Club One of these associations, however, the Informal Club, has had such a prolonged and peculiar career, involving so many prominent men and exerting; without any glare of ostentation or publicity such a marked in fluence on public opinion, that it should have honorable mention in any catalogue of the city's valuable institutions. The forerunner of the In formal Club was the Twilight Club, which flourished for several years,- but was entirely discontinued long before its successor was organized, on a different basis, by some of its members, with notable additions. The initial meeting of the Twilight Club was held at the Metropolitan hotel November 19, 1889. The organization was perfected with Ambrose E. Tighe as the secretary. Mr. Tighe was the only de jure official of the club. Rev. Samuel G. Smith presided, and at the next meeting E. V. Smalley took the chair. Those present at the first meeting were : Rev. Samuel G. Smith, E. V. Smalley, Hon. C. D. O'Brien, John W. White, Hon. H. F. Stevens, Capt. George H. Moffett, Prof. Gilbert, H. P. Hall, E. J. Hodgson, Dr. Van Slyke, O. G. Clay, Mr. Locke, M. E. Vinton, E. W. Peet, A. E. Tighe, J. G. Pyle, Capt. H. A. Castle, Prof. Ara Smith, H. C. Wood, Dr. Riggs, H. B. Farwell, Rev. W. S. Vail, Cass Gilbert, Rev. S. M. Carothers, H. R. Boyeson, A. S. Tallmadge, R. R. Dorr and Harry P. Robinson. A sumptuous repast was served, during which the plan of operations was informally discussed. Then, as a newspaper report, said : "There was a most delicious after-dinner talk in which nearly all present par ticipated." The thesis was : "What Changes Are Impending in the Social Order?" Everybody had been furnished with a circular notifyng him of the subject and everybody was consequently carefully prepared to give expression to his opinion upon the theme under discussion. Speeches were limited to five minutes, and there was, therefore, little opportunity for anything like an oratorical display. Upon a vote of the charter mem bers it was decided to limit the membership to 100. Fortnightly meetings were held during the winter months of two or three years, at the Metropolitan and the Ryan hotels. But the pub licity of these meetings, elaborate newspaper reports being often printed, interfered with the freedom of expression so vital to unofficial debate. The society was finally disbanded, but a recollection of its thought-stimu lating proceedings and its social enjoyments inspired at a later date, the formation of the more satisfactory and enduring one which followed it. On October 12, 1894, invitations were sent to about twenty gentlemen to meet at the residence of E. W. Peet, 271 Summit avenue, on the evening of October 15th, to consider forming: an informal club for talks on current topics and general sociability. Eight of the invited persons responded, viz., Messrs. Flandrau. E. V. Smalley, Brill, Pyle, S. G. Smith, Hamlin, Ames and Peet. The plan of the club was agreed on : a list of proposed members was prepared and a call was issued for the first meet- vol n— 3 484 ST, PAUL AND VICINITY ing to be held at Mr. Peet's house November 27, 1894. The following is the list of original members : C. E. Flandrau, E. V. Smalley, Conde Hamlin, J. G. Pyle, Rev. J. P. Egbert, H. R. Brill, E. W. Peet, Rev. Y. P. Morgan, J. J. Hill, Gen. Wesley Merritt, Dr. Wm. Davis, C. W. Ames, Dr. Burnside Foster, Judge William Mitchell, Rev. S. G. Smith, Judge Thomas Wilson, George C. Squires, D. A. Monfort, F. W. M. Cutcheon, E. W. Winter, Ambrose Tighe, H. P. Upham, W. H. Lightner, F. I. Whitney, W. G. Pearce, Cass Gilbert, John B. West, E. E. Woodman, C. D. O'Brien, J. D. O'Brien, H. A. Castle, D. W. Lawler, C. A. Sever ance, George Thompson, C. H. Kellogg, A. B. Stickney, W. B. Dean, T. D. Merwin, W. P. Clough, C. P. Noyes, R. B. C. Bement, Judge Walter H. Sanborn, Bishop Gilbert, M. D. Grover, Rev. J. J. Conway, Channing Seabury, E. H. McHenry, A. E. Boyesen, H. P. Hall and Dr. Geo. R. Metcalf. Thirty-three of these attended the first meeting. Charles W. Ames became secretary, whether by election or predestination cannot now be authenticated; Messrs. Flandrau, Peet, Brill and Smalley constituted the executive committee. From this time forward until the present writ ing, and with excellent prospects of a continuance into the indefinite future, meetings have been held with substantial regularity, with increas ing pleasure and profit to the entire membership. The objects of the Informal Club were agreed to and set forth as follows: "The Club is to have for its purpose the fostering of rational good-fellowship and tolerant discussion. It is to be made up of sixty, more or less, regular members, and several or more honorary members, all of whom are expected to take an active part at least in the good- fellowship department. The honorary members are chiefly distinguished from the plain kind by not being obliged to come so often, and by paying double dues (if any). It is to have no charter, no constitution, no by laws; only enough formal organization to keep it from disorganizing, and only such officers as are absolutely necessary to arrange for the meetings and keep up the membership. For these purposes it is thought that an executive committee and a secretary will be sufficient. "As the membership is to be strictly limited to sixty, it becomes im portant that all the members should be congenial and 'clubable.' They will be expected to assume charge of the program of an evening or take part in the discussion when requested to do so by the authorities, and, in general, to do their share of the talking and the sociability accord ing to their respective inclinations. They must attend the meetings with reasonable frequency; four consecutive absences will be considered by the secretary a sufficient reason for dropping any name from the list. Vacancies are filled by the executive committee from nominations made by members; but names thus proposed will be submitted to the club, and a single objection will be sufficient to defeat any candidate. "Meetings are to be held fortnightly, on alternate Thursdays, at private houses (on voluntary invitation of members), in the evening. Each meeting will be placed under the direction of some member, who will be invested with dictatorial powers and expected to wield them for the general benefit. The subject for discussion or program for each evening will be arranged by the temporary chairman and the secre tary, and announced at the preceding meeting. Refreshments will be restricted to a simple lunch, and rigid sumptuary laws will be enforced to prevent the development of the club into a banqueting organization." The following "Declaration of Principles" taken from the Sunset Club ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 485 of Chicago, was promulgated in the beginning, and has been strictly adhered to: No Club House No Late Hours No Constitution No Perfumed Notes No Debts No Parliamentary Rules No Contribution No Personalities No Accounts No Dudes No Defalcation No Mere Formalities No By-Laws No Preaching No Stipulations No Dictation No Profanity No Dues No Fines No Litigation No Stealing No Gamblers No "Combines" No Dead Beats No President No Embezzlers No Bores from Foreign Retreats No Steward No Meanness No "Encores" No Vituperation No Long Speeches Simply Tolerant Discussion No Dress Coats and Rational Recreation. At the close of the tenth year of the Informal Club's existence there was held at the Minnesota Club, St. Paul, on the evening of April 14, 1904, as a special commemorative occasion, the "One Hundredth Meet ing and Decennial Dinner," at which, after an elaborate banquet, there were "impromptu remarks" by Messrs. Severance, Hamlin, Boynton, Pyle and Hall, and "promiscuous orations" by members as opportunity was offered them. There were many deserved tributes to the Secretary Scintillant, the most tangible being a silver loving cup, which voiced for the present and testified to the future, the respect and esteem in which Mr. Ames is held by all the members. As a witness to the spirit of the club we may venture brief extracts from letters and telegrams sent by absentees, and read at this meeting: Major General John R. Brooke, U. S. A. (retired), St. Augustine, Florida : "The memory of the meetings attended during the two years of my residence in St. Paul is very green and fresh. I can now hear the voice of the secretary announcing the programme of the evening, and can see the thoughtful expression on the countenance of each member as he bends his mighty intellect to the task." Richard Burton, Boston, Massachusetts : "The club understands the spice there is in variety, so it meets from house to house; it knows that man in undress is happier and brighter than in regimentals, so it forbids evening clothes; it discerns that the beginning of wisdom is found in a secretary who has wit and it keeps him perpetually in that office; and realizing that out of the fulness of the mouth the heart speaketh, it feeds its members well and lets nature do the rest." Rev. Wm. R. Lord, Rockland, Massachusetts : "I recall that one of the most delightful circles which I entered while a resident of your city was that of the Informal Club. Within its bounds there were always the light and warmth of friendly, social cheer, with certain elec tric flashes of wit and wisdom. Who has been largely the center and 486 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY source of these genial emanations, I will leave the club to unanimously agree." Captain Henry A. Castle, Washington, D. C. : "Among my most conclusive titles to my own good opinion of myself is the fact that I was thought worthy to be one of the founders of this illustrious associa tion, and have been thought worthy to be held in remembrance as an affi liated member during my seven years' absence from St. Paul. Among the pleasantest anticipations connected with my early return to the best town on this or any other earth is that of again mingling with these con genial companions." Col. Edward Hunter, U. S. A. (retired), Willimantic, Connecticut: "I regret that it is impossible for me to witness the fireworks that are to follow such Informal orators as Judge Wilson, Rev. Samuel Smith, Messrs. Grover, Hall and Lightner. It may be that since I left you have improved on' these speakers — but I doubt it." Hon. A. B. Stickney, New York, N. Y. : "Please convey to the one-hundredth Informal my informal regrets, in an informal manner and say that although my informal body is absent, my informal spirit is with them informally." Rev. Samuel G. Smith, D. D., St. Paul: "The chief value of the club has doubtless been in the cheerful service it has lent to the educa tion of the clergy^— a profession that has too long been permitted to speak without being properly rebuked by an intelligent laity. In this service the club has been a distinct revelation. But the revelation has been one of good brain, good fellowship and honest hearts." Edwin W. Winter, New York : "I have many times gone further for much smaller pay and heartily wish it was practicable to renew my re lationship to the club on this occasion." On November 9, 191 1, the Informal Club opened its eighteenth season, with its one hundred and seventy-first meeting, at the residence of A. B. Stickney. The following is the present roll call : Active members: Dr. Wm. Davis, Dr. Burnside Foster, Ambrose Tighe, W. H. Lightner, C. A. Severance, R. B. C. Bement, C. W. Ames A. E. Boyesen, Dr. Arthur Sweeney, E. S. Durment, Oliver Crosby, Ruk- ard Hurd, Kenneth Clark, Dr. C. L. Greene, Benjamin Sommers, Dr. Hal- dor Sneve, William G. White, Joseph McKibbin, F. B. Tiffany, F. Willius, Dr. A. Maclaren, Oscar L. Taylor, A. B. Driscoll, Rev. J. A. Schaad, Emerson Hadley, L. P. Ordway, F. G. Ingersoll, W. F. Peet, E. C. Stringer, Rev. I. L. Rypins, Morton Barrows, J. H. Skinner, H. P. Clark, John N. Jackson, C. W. Gordon, T. L. Wann, C. M. Griggs, T. A. Schulze, Rev. H. C. Swearingen, S. L. Heeter, Pierce Butler, Thomas R. Kane, Webster Wheelock, Rev. J. D. Reid, Edward H. Morphy, Rev. Parley P. Warner, Winthrop G. Noyes, Walter J. Driscoll, Rev. F. S. Budlong, Fred B. Lynch, J. S. McLain, Oscar Hallam, Royal A. Stone, J. D. Armstrong, C. W. Farnham, Louis Betz, H. E. Randall, S. W. Burr, Rev. H. Moyni- han, W. J. Dean and M. L. Countryman. Resurrected members : J. G. Pyle and H. A. Castle. Flonorary list : W. H. Sanborn, Archbishop Ireland, F. B. Kellogg, W. W. Folwell, Howard Elliott, Rev. S. G. Smith, C. P. Noyes, A. B. Stick ney, Willis Van Devanter, F. E. Carle, Rev. G. H. Bridgeman, Dr. E.- V. Robinson, Very Rev. J. J. Lawler, T. H. Hodgman, W. B. Dean, Dr. Richard Burton, F C. Stevens, T. W. Lusk, Rev. Tohn Wright, H. R. Brill, Dr. G. E. Vincent, Gen. R. W. Floyt, W. C. Edgar. John W. Riddle and Louis W. Hill. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 487 That the Informal Club has quietly maintained, during so many years a useful and enjoyable existence, with a membership of such pronounced excellence and individuality, is a tribute to the spontaneity of "reasonable" informalism among them, and a still higher tribute to the zeal, tact, and overflowing good fellowship of the (much) enduring Secretary, ab initio, ad finem, Charles W. Ames. Many of the churches and a few fraternal associations have societies for literary improvement, as have a large number of the public and private schools, the colleges, etc. The study clubs, which plan literary programs, bring lecturers to the city and do much social work, include the Cosmo politan Club, thirty members, studying literature, art and drama, Mrs. John McClure, president; the Dames of the Round Table, forty-eight members, Mrs. J. W. Straight, president, studying literature and house hold economics; Eradelphian Club, books and drama, fifteen members, Mrs. George F. Dix, president; Inglenook Reading Club, twenty mem bers, studying "The Great Northwest," Mrs. Louis F. Newton, president; Ladies Study Club, twenty members, miscellaneous course of study, Mrs. Otto Sander, president ; Merriam Park Study Class, thirty members, Mrs. George Hayes, president; Merriam Park Women's Club, fifty-one mem bers, course of study, "Shakespeare," Mrs. J. H. Donahoe, president; Okuyaka Club, studying art, sixteen members, Miss Nellie Merrill, presi dent; St. Paul Colony of New England Women, "New England Topics," seventy-seven members, Mrs. S. E. Lyman, president. German Society of St. Paul The German Society of St. Paul is the oldest German society in the state of Minnesota. In 1853 a few pioneer Germans of the small town of St. Paul, in the then territory of Minnesota, started a reading club called the German Reading Society of St. Paul, under which name it was incor porated February 23, 1854. The first officers of the society were: John Peters, president ; G. Greiner, treasurer ; John Karsher, secretary. On the 28th of February, 1870, the name of the German Reading Society of St. Paul was changed by act of legislature to that of the German Society of St. Paul. The objects of this society were mental and physical improve ment, which it, sought to accomplish by sustaining a library, lectures, the culture of song and music, and. the dramatic art. In 1858 the old society built the Athenaeum Hall, at the corner of Walnut and Exchange streets. In 1870 the society was merged into the German Society (Der Deutsche Verein). The latter, in 1882, joined forces with the St. Paul Turnverein under the name of Germania Turnverein, and soon thereafter built the Germania Turner Hall at 406 North Franklin street, afterwards known as Mozart Hall. This building indirectly caused the disruption of the society and the hall was sold for the benefit of its creditors. The St. Paul Turnverein was originally a department of the German Reading Society? but seceded in i860. It disbanded temporarily during the War of the Rebellion, as almost all its members went to the front in defense of the Union. At the close of the war it resumed operations and in 1882 merged with the German Society into the Germania Turnverein. The present Turnverein of St. Paul is the outgrowth of the old society, many members of the latter and their descendants being now connected with it. Among the societies conducted by different elements of the foreign- 488 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY born population of St. Paul, which are, in whole or in part, concerned with literary affairs, are as follows: Vega Literary Society : Meets second and fourth Friday of each month at 254 East Seventh. Membership 100. President, August Olson; vice president, Oscar Wall ; secretary, J . A. Larson ; treasurer, Andr Fredlund. Oestreichisch Ungarischer Unterstuetzung Verein : Meets second and fourth Monday of each month in Tschidas hall. President, Adolph Fasch- ingbauer ; secretary, Gust Graf ; treasurer, Engelbert Schwertberger. Biblioteka Unii Lubelskiej : Organized November 1, 1887. Meets second Tuesday of each month at Saint Adelbert's Parochial School. President, Mrs. P. Franckowiak; secretary, F. J. Rosenthal; treasurer, Joseph Rosenthal. Como Park as a "Melting Pot" The influence of literary societies and literary culture, and literary ten dencies on the daily life, the thoughts and aspirations of our people, for eign as well as native, is curiously shown in what a local paper calls "the melting pot of nationalities" — the gifts which the foreign born make to Como park. In this western country, where the racial elements from Europe are not yet fused, it is possible that every hyphenated soci ety will ask to contribute their testimonial to the witnessing of future generations. It is reported that the Sons of Norway seek permission, and after that will seek funds, to the end that a statue of Ibsen may adorn Como park. South Dakota towns of much smaller population, and much smaller Norwegian population, have erected such memorials to the dram atist, and there is' no reason why the Sons of Norway in St. Paul should not so honor their brother. Already a statue of Schiller adorns the park grounds, unveiled on German day with an address by a celebrated German statesman brought hither especially for this purpose. Assuredly the fact that authors and poets are thus monumentalized, instead of warriors and heroes, is a gratifying tribute to the enlightment which has penetrated the minds of our citizens. The journal which broaches this discovery, proceeds: "If Como is to be the melting pot of our city population, there is no reason why, in course of time, every element in our much mixed habitant should not be com memorated. The Scotchman will erect his statue of Bobby Burns and unveil it in the snows of January 25. The Irishman will elect and erect perhaps O'Connell, and bring John Redmond to the speaking, in those near days when Ireland gets its home rule. Frenchmen will choose from their Pantheon and elevate some good republican, although we should prefer a Franciscan father ; while Switzerland may embody forth Wilhelm Tell in the act of hitting the apple. Italy may remember Cavour, or Caesar. The school children of the future will have an illuminated time, studying history on the paths of Como park." In the process of Americanization, through which our polyglot nation alities cheerfully pass, a commendable reverence for their mother tongue and for those who write it, is no impediment. An alleged poet is born every minute whom the world willingly lets die. But the sun-crowned genius, in every land and in every age, must have due recognition from all who are worthy to enjoy his benefactions. CHAPTER XLV THE MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY Incorporation and Organization — Places of Meeting — Building Project Falls — Society Resuscitated — Broad Scope and Purposes — Officers — Removal to New Capitol — Society Publications — Great Historical Library — Historical and Archaeological Relics — The Kensington Rune Stone The Minnesota Historical Society was organized under an act passed by the first session of the territorial legislature in 1849, and is therefore the oldest institution in the state. Its objects are the collection, preserva tion and publication of materials relating to the history of this state and development of its resources ; to collect biographic sketches and portraits of its pioneers and prominent citizens ; to record their work in settling the state and building up its towns, cities, and institutions; to preserve an account of its Indian tribes ; to gather a museum of articles illustrative of the conditions of the settlement and later history of Minnesota, of the aboriginal people who built the thousands of prehistoric mounds in this state, and of the tribes who were living here when the first white men reached this region; to collect and maintain for the use of the public a reference library of books, pamphlets, maps and manuscripts, on the local and general history, resources and development of Minnesota, of the United States, and the world ; and to promote the knowledge of these sub jects among the citizens of the state. Incorporation and Organization The original act, or charter, approved October 20, 1849, named as the incorporators C. K. Smith, David Olmsted, H. H. Sibley, Aaron Good rich, David Cooper, B. B. Meeker, A. M. Mitchell, T. R. Potts, J. C. Ramsey, H. M. Rice, F. Steele, Charles W. Borup, D. B. Loomis, M. S. Wilkinson, L. A. Babcock, Henry Jackson, W. D. Phillips, William H. Forbes, Martin McLeod and their associates. Charles K. Smith, who is named first in the list of incorporators was the secretary of the territory, and seems to have been the leading spirit in bringing about the organiza tion. The society was duly organized in the office of the secretary of the territory, a room in an old log hotel, on November 15, 1849. The officers chosen at this meeting were: Alexander Ramsey, president; David Olm sted and Martin McLeod, vice presidents ; Charles Kilgore Smith, secre tary ; and William H. Forbes, treasurer. The formal ceremonies of open ing or dedication were held at the Methodist church on Market street, St. Paul, January 1, 1850, and are thus reported in a local paper of the period : "The first exercises of the Minnesota Historical Society took place 489 490 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY at the Methodist church on the first inst., and passed off highly creditable to all concerned. The day was pleasant and the attendance large. At the appointed hour, the president and both vice presidents of the society being absent, on motion of Hon. C. K. Smith, Hon. Chief Justice Goodrich was called to the chair. The same gentleman then moved that a committee consisting of Messrs. Parsons K. Johnson, John A. Wakefield and B. W. Brunson, be appointed to wait upon the orator of the day, Rev. Mr. Neill, and inform him that the audience was waiting to hear his address. Mr. Neill was shortly conducted to the pulpit; and, after an eloquent and appropriate prayer by the Rev. Mr. Parsons and music by the band, he proceeded to deliver his discourse upon the early French missionaries and voyageurs into Minnesota. We hope the society will provide for its pub lication at an early day. After some brief remarks by Rev. Mr. Hobart upon the objects and ends of history, the ceremonies were concluded with a prayer by that gentleman. The audience dispersed highly delighted with all that occurred." The fact that an institution of this nature was organized at the very beginning of society in this state, which in older states had generally been the outgrowth of wealth, culture and time, was a matter of surprise to those not familiar with the energy with which western men in the early stages of settlement provide themselves with the institutions of older communities. As the editor of a New York paper said : "There is noth ing too flattering to predict of the future greatness and prosperity of a people who commence to write their history as soon as the foundations of their commonwealth are laid." It was not, however, a very encouraging prospect for an institution of that kind. The population of St. Paul was only 400 or 500, and there were but three or four towns in the territory, which was then still oc cupied by the Indians and had altogether not over 1,500 white inhabitants. These were mostly poor settlers, and in the struggle for subsistence in a new country, still a wilderness, had scarcely leisure or means to cultivate esthetics or write or study history. Consequently the development of the society was very slow during the first few years. In 1858 there were only 441 volumes in the library, and those of minor value. Places of Meeting There was also much difficulty during the first four or five years in procuring a suitable place to hold the meetings of the society and to de posit its collections. The Capitol was not completed until 1853, and meantime the meetings were held at the office of the territorial secretary and other places, until November, 1855, when a room was provided in the Capitol for the permanent use of the society. Meantime the annual meetings of the society had been regularly held in public ; important and valuable papers had been read and addresses de livered, which, with other contributions concerning the early history of Minnesota, were published in pamphlet form yearly during the years 1850, 1851, 1852 and 1853, and were circulated as widely as the means of the society would permit. In 1855 the improved condition of the society seemed to call for means to provide a future permanent edifice for its use. It was therefore resolved to procure a tract of ground, while it could be done cheaply, for a library building for the society. The only way this could be accom plished was by raising a fund from the sale of life memberships, at ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 491 twenty-five dollars each, and without much delay sixty-two citizens be came life members. With the proceeds two lots on the corner of Wa basha and Tenth streets, in a very eligible and central location, were pur chased at a total cost of $1,531. This was a judicious and fortunate step for the society, as the property was soon worth tenfold the amount paid. On November 27, 1855, the society met for the first time, says the minutes, "in the hall set apart in the Capitol for their use, and properly furnished with shelves." For the first time they were able to open their doors to the public, in a suitable and permanent location. The legislature of 1856, at the suggestion and request of the society, passed an act appropriating $500 annually to aid it in accomplishing its work. A joint resolution was also passed requesting Rev. E. D. Neill, then secretary of the society, to prepare a compilation of materials tor the History of Minnesota, of which 1,500 copies were ordered to be printed. Building Project Falls The rapid increase of population at that time led the society to be lieve that means could be procured for the erection of a hall on its prop erty, and, with perhaps too little deliberation, it was resolved to commence the same. On June 24, 1856, the corner stone of the proposed building was laid with Masonic and other ceremonies. An oration was pronounced by Lieut. M. F. Maury, of the United States Navy, and a number of dis tinguished guests were in attendance. A procession, composed of the civic societies of St. Paul and other towns in the territory, with a military escort consisting of Capt. Thos. W. Sherman's famous battery from Fort Snelling, marched through the principal streets, forming altogether an oc casion of much interest. The foundation walls of the building were completed, but here work was discontinued, after several hundred dol lars had been expended in the project. The inflated condition of the money market had led the society to believe that the means necessary could be raised without trouble; but before any further funds were col lected, the financial revolution of 1857 occurred, effort to complete the building was abandoned, and was never resumed. Society Resuscitated From this dormant state the society was resuscitated in the winter of 1863-4. The legislature renewed its annual appropriation, and a num ber of active gentlemen were admitted to membership. The society re sumed work under flattering prospects, and from this period dates its real success. Its apartment in the Capitol being needed for other pur poses, rooms were rented in Ingersoll's block and placed under the care of the librarian of the "St. Paul Library" in the same edifice. The pub lication of its collections was also resumed. In 1868 the legislature caused apartments in the Capitol to be pre pared for the society, to which its library and museum was removed' in October of that year. In 1869 the legislature somewhat increased the annual allowances, which enabled the society to employ a librarian per manently. Broad Scope and Purposes The comprehensive character of the scope and purpose of the Minne sota Historical Society, and its laudable ambition to do thorough work 492 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY along its allotted lines, is made evident by one of the early requests for contributions to its library and collections, covering "everything relat ing to our own state :" i. Travels and explorations; city directories; copies of the earlier laws and journals of our legislature; ordinances of cities; and, in short, every book, on any subject, printed in the state, or elsewhere, relating to it. 2. Pamphlets of all kind : Catalogues of Minnesota colleges and other institutions of learning; annual reports of societies; sermons and ad dresses delivered in this state; minutes of church conventions, synods, or other ecclesiastical bodies of Minnesota; political addresses; railroad and board of trade reports, and every other pamphlet relating to this state. 3. Files of Minnesota newspapers and magazines, especially com plete volumes of past years, or single numbers even. Publishers are earnestly requested to contribute their publications regularly, all of which will be carefully preserved and bound. 4. Materials for Minnesota history : Old letters ; journals, and manu script narratives of the pioneers of Minnesota; original papers on the early history and settlement of the territory; adventures and conflicts during the Indian war or the late Rebellion ; biographies of the pioneers of every county, either living or deceased, together with their portraits and autographs; a sketch of the settlement of every town and village in the state, with names of the first settlers. We solicit articles on every subject connected with Minnesota history. 5. Maps of town sites or 'counties of any date; views and engravings of buildings or historic places ; drawings or photographs of scenery ; paint ings ; portraits, etc., connected with Minnesota history. 6. Curiosities of all kinds for our museum : Coins ; medals ; paint ings; portraits; engravings; statues; war relics; autograph letters of dis tinguished persons, etc. 7. Facts illustrative of our Indian tribes : Their history ; character istics, religion, etc. ; sketches of their prominent chiefs, orators and war riors, together with contributions of Indian weapons, costumes, curiosi ties and implements; also stone axes, spears, arrow heads, pottery, or other relics of the prehistoric races. The amended charter of 1856 enacted: "The objects of said society, with the enlarged powers and duties herein provided, shall be, in addi tion to the collection and preservation of publications, manuscripts, anti quities, curiosities and all other things pertaining to the social, political, and natural history of Minnesota, to cultivate among the citizens thereof a knowledge of the useful and liberal arts, science and literature." The work of this society therefore comprises: 1. The collection, preservation and publication of materials for the history of Minnesota and its people. 2. The collection and management of a library containing useful works of reference on the local and general history of Minnesota, of the United States and the world, and on all other valuable departments of knowledge. 3. The diffusion, among the citizens of the state, of useful knowledge. Officers The Minnesota Historical Society has always been fortunate in its officers. Its presidents have been such men as Alexander Ramsey, H. M. Rice, H. H. Sibley, W. R. Marshall, George A. Hamilton, John Mat- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 493 tocks, Russell Blakeley, Charles E. Mayo, John B. Sanborn, Greenleaf Clark and N. P. Langford. The successive secretaries, the executive of ficers of the organization on whom the burden of responsibility has fallen, to whom the credit for its distinguished success has been largely due, have been Charles K. Smith, Rev. E. D. Neill, William H. Kelly, Charles E. Mayo, J. Fletcher Williams, William R. Marshall and Warren Up- ham. Mr. Williams was secretary from 1867 to 1893, twenty-six years. Henry P. Upham, president of the First National Bank of St. Paul, served the society thirty-three years as treasurer, and contributed ma terially toward placing its finances on a substantial basis. Among those who have served as officers and councilors, in addition to those above mentioned, have been E. F. Drake, Dr. S. Y. McMasters, Dr. J. B. Phil lips, James W. Taylor, D. W. Ingersoll, George L. Becker, Dr. R. O. Sweeny, John Ireland, W. B. Dean, Josiah B. Chaney, James J. Hill and many others conspicuous in the annals of the city and the state. The present officers are: William H. Lightner, acting president; Charles P. Noyes, vice president; Warren Upham, secretary and librarian; Everett H. Bailey, treasurer; David L. Kingsbury, assistant librarian; John Tal- man, newspaper librarian. Removal to New Capitol In the summer of 1905 the society entered a new and better epoch, by the removal of its library and museum to the magnificent and fire proof new capitol. The five large rooms thus occupied, however, are already entirely filled by the growth of these collections, and the adjoining corridor is also filled with bookcases and museum cases. The urgent need for a library building is manifest to all, and will no doubt soon command favorable attention from the legislature. Society Publications The publications of the Historical Society already constitute a collec tion of historical, descriptive, and biographical papers, of incalculable value to the state and the nation. The unprecedented advantage of the very early formation of this association is here made manifest. The first annals of the coming empire have been written by the empire-builders themselves ; many of the contributors could truthfully have said of their narrations: "All of this I saw, and much of it I was." The following brief catalogue of these publications, a series of thirteen octavo volumes, will suggest their interest and importance: Vol. 1 consists of a republication in 1872, again reprinted in 1902, of 29 papers, which were originally issued from 1850 to 1856, and are by such authors as Neill, Sibley, Ramsey, Hobart, Riggs, Goodrich, Morrison and Williamson. It contains 430 pages. Vol. 2 was published in three parts, dated respectively i860, 1864 and 1867. Part 3 was not, at first, consecutively paged, and thus the volume could not be conveniently indexed; but that part was reprinted (in 1889), and the account of the celebration of the Carver Centenary was added, with an index of the whole volume. Pages 294. Vol. 3, published in three parts, dated 1870, 1874 and 1880 ; paged continuously and indexed; illustrated with a steel engraving of Rev. John Mattocks. Pages viii, 433. 494 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Vol. 4, History of the City of St. Paul and County of Ramsey, Minnesota, by J. Fletcher Williams, containing a very full sketch of the first settlement and early days of St. Paul, 1838 to 1848, and of the territory from 1849 to 1858; lists of the early settlers and claim owners; amusing events of pioneer days ; biographical sketches of over two hun dred prominent men of early times ; three steel portraits and forty-seven wood-cuts (portraits and views) ; pages 475. Published in 1876. Vol. 5, History of the Ojibway Nation, by William W. Warren, with an appendix of 116 pages by Rev. E. D. Neill and a memoir of Warren by J. Fletcher Williams. Published in 1885. Pages 535. Vol. 6, published in three parts in 1887, 1891 and 1894, comprising miscellaneous papers on the history of Minnesota and the Northwest, with eight portraits and an index. Pages iv, 556. Vol. 7, The Mississippi River and its Source; a Narrative and Critical History of the River and its Headwaters, accompanied by the results of detailed hydrographic and topographic surveys ; illustrated with many maps, portraits, and views of scenery; by Hon. J. V. Brower, commis sioner of the Itasca State Park, representing also the State Historical Society. With an appendix: "How the Mississippi River and the Lake of the Woods became instrumental in the establishment of the North western Boundary of the United States," by Alfred J. Hill. Published in 1893. Pages xv, 360. Vol. 8, published in three parts, 1895, 1896 and 1898; miscellaneous papers on the history of Minnesota and the Northwest; with 28 plates (portraits, views, maps, etc.), and 7 figures in the text. Pages xii, 542. Vol. 9, published in 1901 ; twenty-four miscellaneous papers on the history of Minnesota and the Northwest, with 22 plates. Contains pro ceedings of the celebration of the" fiftieth anniversary of the Minnesota Historical Society, with addresses by Ramsey, Sanborn, Langford, Pills- bury, Flandrau, Le Due, Northrop, Bishop Whipple, Governor Lind, Senator C. K. Davis and others. Pages xiv, 694. Vol. 10, published in 1905, in two parts, consecutively paged. In its Part II, besides an index to the whole volume, are an index of the authors and principal subjects in the series of Volumes I to X, and a personal index of Volumes I to IX, both of which were compiled from the indexes of those volumes. Vol. 11, Itasca State Park, an Illustrated History, by J. V. Brower, author of Volume VII, Minnesota Historical Collections. Published in 1905. Pages 285. Vol. 12, published 1909, contains papers and addresses presented before the society, 1905 to 1908. Pages xx, 827, with 38 portraits and illustrations. Vol. 13, published 1908, contains the biographies of the governors of Minnesota, written by Gen. James H. Baker. Pages 480, with por traits. A volume entitled "The Aborigines of Minnesota," by Prof. N. H. Winchell, different from the foregoing in its quarto size, was published in 191 1, in pursuance of plans by the late Hon. J. V. Brower to treat the archaeology of this state, its aboriginal mounds, the Indian tribes and their implements, weapons, and ornaments. Extensive manuscripts and platbooks of T. FI Lewis and the late Alfred J. Hill, of St. Paul, comprising records of archaeological explorations "throughout Minne sota during many years, are used, with large additions from Mr. Brower's and the author's personal explorations and surveys. In the ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 495 volume are about 500 plats and maps of groups of mounds surveyed in this state, and separate histories of the Dakota and Ojibway people, with illustrations of their implements and modes of life. It i's estimated that Minnesota has fully 10,000 aboriginal mounds. Two pamphlet publications have been recently issued, the first a preliminary report on "The Kensington Rune Stone," by the Museum committee, in 66 pages, with five plates, and the second an address given by Hon. Samuel G. Iverson, state auditor, at the Council meeting on February 13, 191 1, entitled "The Public Lands and School Fund of Minnesota," in 29 pages. These papers are to be included in the next volume of the society's collected papers and addresses. A comprehensive and systematic plan for collecting materials for additional publications is being steadily prosecuted by the Historical Society. In addition to the historical and biographical papers presented at the monthly meetings, which will appear at intervals, there are three volumes in preparation for the octavo series, namely — first, "Minnesota Biography," an alphabetic list of biographies of the pioneers and chief citizens of Minnesota as a territory and state during its first half cen tury; second, "Minnesota Geographic Names," giving the origin, mean ing, and date, so far as can be ascertained, of all our proper names, as of the state, its counties and townships, cities, villages, railway stations, post offices, creeks, rivers and lakes, hills and mountains, and the streets and parks in cities; and third, a History of this Society in its work for our state, its library and other collections, and its membership. Work has also been well begun by the secretary and literary assistant on a biography, in one or two volumes, of the late Alexander Ramsey, Min nesota's "War Governor," foremost in statesmanship for promotion of this commonwealth, designed to be published in the same series of Historical Collections. More than sixty quarto scrap books, each of 160 pages, have been filled and indexed, for public use. They comprise newspaper items and articles relating to the society ; to this state and its towns and cities ; to biographies and obituaries ; to conventions, reunions, etc. Great Historical Library The Historical Society acts as the servant of the people of the state in .gathering its very extensive and valuable library, which stands in the front rank among the great historical libraries of the United States. It is a free reference library, open daily to the public from 8 :30 A. M. to 5 P. M. At the beginning of the year 1912 the library had 68,928 bound and 36,436 unbound volumes, amounting together to 105,364 volumes. In the year 1910 the number of bound newspaper volumes added to the library was 353, and in 191 1 the number was 371. The total number on January 1, 1912, was 9,327. The number of Minne sota newspapers, daily, weekly and monthly, regularly received, is now 430, and 40 others are received from outside of this state, making the entire number 470. All the Minnesota papers are donated by the editors and publishers, who appreciate the importance of having them placed where they will be preserved for all coming time. The newspaper collection is accessible to all who wish to consult it, and is so arranged that any paper of any date can be readily found. The Minnesota department of the general library, including books relating particularly to this state, is very extensive and of great interest 496 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY to all our people. It comprises the journals of the legislature, and the laws enacted; reports of the supreme court; messages and reports of executive officers and departments of the state government; reports of the State University, normal schools, and institutions of correction and charity; catalogues of our colleges and academies; reports of the State Geological Survey; of county, city, and town officers, boards of trade, railway and other corporations; state, county, city and town histories, atlases, and business directories; the published proceedings and records of the numerous religious, charitable, and social organizations; and many historical, descriptive, biographical, and statistical works, beginning with the narratives of the earliest explorers of the area of Minnesota. This collection numbers 1,965 bound books, and about 1,650 pamphlets. "It can be said with truth," said Warren Upham, the secretary and the librarian of the Historical Library, in a newspaper interview, "that with one exception this library leads all others in the country in family and local histories. The most extensive is the New England Historic Genealogical Society Library at Boston. We have here more than two thousand bound books on genealogy. These deal with particular families of the United States and Canada. A large amount of information con cerning families is to be found in the town and county histories of which we have a fine collection. Practically every section of the country is dealt with. For Massachusetts alone we have over eleven hundred of these histories. This is the largest collection. For the other states the material is more in proportion of New Hampshire, for which there are two hundred volumes. The west, which is not so venerable as the east and in which there is less interest and care taken in local histories, is nevertheless well represented." Several hundreds of life size portraits of Minnesotans have been collected by the society, either through donation or purchase, only a minor portion of which can be placed on exhibition, owing to lack of space. About 1,000 smaller portraits and other pictures are owned by the society and are alphabetically catalogued so as to be immediately accessible. On account of the steady increase of the library, portrait collection and museum, it is evident that a new and ample building, to be occupied by this society, similar to those devoted to state history in Madison, Wiscon sin, and Des Moines, Iowa, should soon be provided, preferably on some site nearly adjoining the new capitol. Minnesota has just cause for pride in the work already achieved by the Historical Society, and may well pat tern after adjoining state in erecting a new and adequate fireproof building for the society's collections and meetings. Historical and Archaelogical Relics Many historical relics have been donated to the society, illustrative of the conditions of the pioneer settlement of Minnesota ; of the Sioux war and the Civil war; of the people who built the thousands of prehistoric mounds in this state, and of the tribes, the Sioux and Ojibways, who were living here when the first white men reached this region. These miscel laneous museum collections are exhibited in the main corridor of the society's rooms, adjoining the library. In the same large corridor are also exhibited a chair once owned by George Washington; the steering wheel of the old frigate "Minnesota," which was built in 1855 and did good service in the Civil war; a large collection of Philippine weapons ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 497 presented by Governor Lind ; a Spanish garrote, which was long used for executions in a Manila prison, presented by Major Edwin S. Bean; an Ojibway birch canoe; the very large mounted head of a buffalo that was killed by Governor Marshall and others; and the fine head of a moose presented by Governor Nelson. In the newspaper room is the first print ing press used in Minnesota, presented by the Pioneer Press Company, on which James M. Goodhue printed the Minnesota Pioneer Press, issuing the first number April 28, 1849. The society's archaeological museum is its southeast corner room, in which the very extensive collections donated by the late Rev. Edward C. Mitchell are displayed in fourteen large glass cases. These collections of aboriginal implements, weapons and ornaments, had been gathered by him at his home in St. Paul, during many years, from nearly every state and territory of the Union, and in less numbers from many foreign countries. His donations and his subsequent additions comprise about 24,000 pieces, or relics, made of stone, bone, shell, horn, copper, pottery and a few of brass, lead, iron, glass and wood. Other great archaeological collections were also brought together for this society by the late Hon. J. V. Brower, a member of the council and chairman of its museum committee. This material comprises a vast number of specimens, in total exceeding 100,000, of stone implements and weapons, flakes from their manufacture, bone and copper ornaments, pottery, etc., partly from the modern Indians, partly from the ancient mounds, throughout Minnesota and a large region reaching west to the Rocky mountains and south to Kansas. The Kensington Rune Stone A remarkable relic, which was for some months in 1909-10 deposited in the museum of the Minnesota Historical Society, was the Kensington Rune Stone. If the authenticity of its inscriptions shall be thoroughly established, it is confidently hoped that the stone may become the prop erty of the state, for nowhere could it be so appropriately deposited as in this collection. It would be of priceless value and of undying interest. We compile the following account of this stone from the writings of Very Rev. Francis J. Schaefer, D. D., member of the council of the Historical Society, and rector of St. Paul Seminary. In August, 1898, a Swedish farmer, by the name of Olaf Ohman, was busying himself in clearing a tract of his land, situated about three miles in a northerly direction "from Kensington, Douglas county, Minnesota. While uprooting a poplar tree, eight or ten inches in diameter, on the side of a morainic hill, he discovered a stone, which has been and still is the subject of widespread interest and discussion. The stone is thirty inches long, sixteen inches wide and six inches thick and weighs about two hun dred and thirty pounds. It is a graywacke, of dark gray color, evidently rifted from some large boulder of the glacial drift, which forms the sur face of all the region. On the face of the stone and on the side there is an inscription in strange characters, which were believed and have since been proven to be runic letters, such as were in use, centuries ago, among the Germanic and Scandinavian nations. .As there was no runic scholar in the neighborhood of Kensington, the stone was sent to the professor of Scandinavian literature in the Univer sity of Minnesota, and to other Swedish, Norwegian and Danish scholars in Chicago. They deciphered the inscription; but as it contained the account of an exploration to that spot by Norsemen in the fourteenth cen- 498 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY SIDE VIEW FRONT VIEW THE KENSINGTON RUNE STONE ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 499 tury, it was generally held to be a fraud of recent date. And thus the stone was returned to its owner, who used it as a step to the door of his barn. A new examination of the inscription was made afterwards by Mr. Hjalmar Rued Holand, a scholar of Scandinavian history and literature. While preparing a history of Norwegian immigration to the United States, he traveled extensively among the Norwegian settlements in the north west. In August, 1907, he happened to be in Douglas county; there he learned from Mr. Ohman the circumstances of the finding of the stone and obtained it from him for further study. The result of his researches was presented in an elaborate paper, read at the monthly meeting of the Minnesota Historical Society, December 13, 1909. The inscription, as interpreted in English by Mr. Holand, reads as fol lows: "8 Goths (Swedes) and 22 Norwegians on an exploring journey from Vinland very far west. We had a camp by 2 skerries (rocks in the water) one day's journey north from this stone. We were out fishing one day. When we returned home, we found 10 men red with blood and dead. A V M (Ave Maria, or Ave Virgo Maria). Save us from evil." "We have 10 men by the sea to look after our vessel, 14 (41 ?) days' journey from this island. Year 1362." We learn from this account, that thirty Swedish and Norwegian explorers came to the central western part of what is now Minnesota on a journey of exploration made in 1362. Their starting point was Vinland, a country along the eastern coast of North America. They put up a camp near a lake, at the point of which were found two rocks in the water ; the camping place was about a day's journey to the north from the spot where the stone was found. One day they went out fishing on the lake, and when they returned to their camp, they found that ten of their men were killed by savages. Thereupon they packed up their belongings and departed in all' haste, at first in a southerly direction. After having traveled for about a day they rested on an island, carved into a stone the record of their journey, and addressed a prayer to the Blessed Virgin Mary to save them from further evil. Their ship was left by the sea in the custody of ten men, at a distance of about forty-one days' journey. (The rendering of the numerals indicating the distance to their ship is not altogether certain; they might mean 14 or 41 days. However, forty-one seems to be the more probable.) The great question is, whether the inscription be genuine, i. e., whether it be really a record left there by Scandinavian explorers in the fourteenth century. It may be said at the very outset, that direct evi dences or testimonies in favor of its authenticity are lacking. All that can be done is to gather a certain number of reasons or facts, which will make it likely that the monument is really what it claims to be. The idea of a recent fraud seems to be excluded by the circumstances of the place. The stone was lying flat with its rune-inscribed face down ward, was thinly covered by the surface soil ; and over it had grown a poplar tree, which had sent its main roots down at one side of the stone, while another large root crossed the stone and then passed down at its opposite edge. All the roots that.covered the stone, were flattened on the side nearest to it; and the tree, according to a general estimate, was about forty years old. Hence the stone was in its position at least since about the year i860; a time when there were no white settlers within one hundred miles of the place, and the nearest railroad was four hundred miles away. The journey itself of these daring Norsemen into the interior of the vol. n— 4 500 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY American continent is not at all impossible. It is a matter of history that the Norsemen visited the coast of North America, a section of which they called Vinland (land of wine; either New England or Nova Scotia) from the abundance of wild grapes found there. These visits commenced about the year iooo, and continued for several centuries. Why should not some of them, during a longer sojourn in Vinland, undertake a journey of exploration into the interior of the land, which offered to them such treasures in natural resources? The most important matter to be examined is the language and the style of the inscription. Mr. Holand is satisfied that both are in perfect harmony with the Scandinavian documents of the fourteenth century, with which he compared the inscription of the rune stone. One par ticular feature seems to bear out his contention — the salutation ad dressed to the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Ave Maria, which shows the childlike faith of the people in the Middle Ages, the habit of having recourse to the Mother of God in all circumstances, particularly in times of need and distress. The Norsemen of the fourteenth century were one in faith with the Catholics of other countries of Europe; and hence they had the same customs and devotions. If a Scandinavian of our own time had perpetrated a forgery, he would scarcely have thought of placing the invocation to the Virgin Mary on the stone, because any thing like a devotion to the Saints is entirely foreign to the mind of Protestants. Concerning the probable route taken by the explorers, Professor Andrew Fossum, of St. Olaf College, Northfield, Minnesota, gave an interesting theory in the Norwegian American, Northfield, Minnesota, October 22, 1909. According to it the travelers set out from Vinland, passed through Hudson straits into Hudson bay, left their ship near the mouth of Nelson or Hayes river, made a canoe journey into Lake Winnipeg and along the Red river to its first series of strong rapids and falls, terminating a few miles below Fergus Falls, Minnesota, and thence crossed the country, probably by streams, small lakes, and portages, some twenty miles southeastward to Pelican lake. For this inland journey fourteen days might be sufficient, provided the travelers were on the road for about fifteen hours a day, and were not hampered by special difficulties. Still it is rather a short space of time for such a long distance; and hence the rendering of the numerals in the inscription by 41 days is altogether more likely. Interesting accounts of the rune stone and the question connected therewith may be found in Harper's Weekly, October 9, 1909, from the pen of Mr. Holand, and from that of Mr. Warren Upham, secretary of the Minnesota Historical Society, in "Records of the Past," January-February, 1910. In the summer of 191 1 this rune stone was taken to Sweden and Norway by Mr. Holand, and was submitted to examination by the most expert Scandinavian linguists and runologists, of which he published a report in "Records of the Past," September-October, 191 1. He con cludes that the arguments for the authenticity of the stone as a historical record, set forth in the report of this Society's Museum committee, are far more reliable than any objections that have been urged against it. CHAPTER XLVI ST. PAUL ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS Origin of St. Paul Institute — -Activities of the Institute — Affilia tion with Clubs and Societies — Alliance with Public Schools — Suggested Expansion — Business Training— German Section of the Institute — St. Paul Artists — Prominent Architects. A movement of comparatively recent origin to establish an institu tion of incalculable value to the city, The St. Paul Institute, has progressed to the point which seems to guarantee a permanent success. The purpose of its founders was to form the nucleus of an organization which should grow and develop until it became coterminous with the city itself, malting it a center of art, culture and education, which should be so many-sided that it would in some of its activities meet the needs of every one; so democratic that it would reach and receive the support of all classes; so practical that the standard of individual efficiency would be permanently raised. So far as its objects were educational, their tendency was and is to transform the city into a popular university of continuous education, and it has therefore acquired the secondary title of "The People's University." But its scope is even broader. By combining into one organization all the artistic, musical, scientific and other intellectual interests, it hopes to aid effectually in making St. Paul a great city in the largest sense of the; word. While its work will contribute in no small degree to the city's material prosperity, it aims chiefly to make it a better and pleasanter place to live in — to raise the standards of its social and industrial life; to provide the means of culture and refinement; to diffuse interest in the art-s and sciences in the community; in short, to make St. Paul a real center of the higher civilization. Origin of St. Paul Institute This great institution originated in the suggestion of a course of free lectures on hygiene and sanitation, which led to the organization early in 1907 of the St. Paul Institute of Science and Letters, a private enter prise supported by a few public spirited citizens. Its lecture courses and classes met with such wide popularity that the idea of establishing a larger institute in the general lines of the Brooklyn Institute of Arts and Letters took form, and the present organization was incorporated April 28, 1908, by Charles W. Ames, Arthur Sweeny and Lucius C. Ord- wa'y, with a representative board of fifty-five trustees, including ex-of- ficio the mayor, the presidents of the school, library and Auditorium boards, and the superintendent of schools. By permanently including 501 502 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY <.~..- ¦I | i i ST. PAUL CATHEDRAL, FRONT ELEVATION ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 503 these city officials as members of the board, the cooperation of the muni cipality was definitely assured, a policy which has been amply justified. The affairs of the institute are under the control and management of its corporate members, composed of life members, persons who have contributed at one time not less than $100, or more than $1,000 in money or property; permanent members contributing between $1,000 and $10,000 or its worth; patrons contributing from $10,000 to $100,000, and bene factors whose donations exceed $100,000. Sustaining members, paying $25 a year, have for that year all the privileges of life members. The popular cooperation is secured through the association membership. As sociate members pay $5 a year dues. The inducements to this are the privileges of the lecture program and the opportunity to belong to the many active societies and working sections of the various departments. Where the regular sources of income have failed to equal the expen ditures, the liberal promoters of the enterprise have hitherto made up the deficit. The charter commission meantime, suggested the feasibility of mak ing a charter provision to permit the institute to take charge of the art gallery and museum in connection with school extension and social center work, the maintenance expense being met by a tax levy of one-fifth of a mill. Activities of the Institute The activities of the institute have fallen into three- general groups, the museum, art gallery and exhibitions; the sections and the schools. The Board of Auditorium commissioners, with the approval of the mayor and city council, in August, 1908, leased the three upper stories of the auditorium to the institute for ten years at an annual rental of $1, consti tuting, about 10,000 feet of floor space. About $11,000 was advanced by the institute to install an elevator and put the rooms in suitable condition, for which sum it is hoped the city will reimburse the institute. This has provided a home for the general officers, the art school and gallery, and for the natural history museum established in the spring of 1910. The museum has been an admitted desideratum in St. Paul for many ' years, but it remained for Dr. Arthur Sweeny to give vitality to the idea, in this connection. The value of museums to a city is beginning to be generally appreciated. Now is the time to begin the collection of valu able material which in a short time will be lost forever if not preserved by that city or town. The older countries realized this hundreds of years ago, and every little town has its museum and picture gallery. In Lon don, Paris and Berlin they will tell you that the annual appropriations made for these institutions are most freely given. Paris in 1821 paid $20,000 for the Venus of Melos. In the inventory of the Louvre it is valued at half a million, and a million would not buy it. Wilson Peale founded, soon after the Revolution, the academy and museum in Philadel phia, which is still in existence. Peale, a harness maker, was twenty years old before he ever saw an oil painting. He was a soldier and while in the field painted his celebrated portrait of Washington. After the war he was elected a member of the legislature. During the excavation for a large building in Philadelphia the bones of a mastodon were unearthed. These attracting Peak's attention he began the study of natural history, opened the first museum in America, and gave a series of lectures which were extremely popular. These were kept up until the loss of his teeth interfered with his oratory, when he turned his attention to dentistry and 504 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY became the first American dentist — all in all proving himself to be the most versatile of men. The museum of the St. Paul Institute makes rapid progress. The col lection of shells, fossils, corals, minerals, etc., presented by Rev. Edward C. Mitchell was enough to place the institute at one step in a very re spectable rank. This collection includes more than 10,000 specimens, and represents a money value of at least $20,000. Many smaller but valuable gifts have been added to the museum, and a large number of rare and interesting articles have been placed there as loan exhibits by the owners, who were glad to make use of the fireproof quarters of the museum to share their treasures with the public. The nucleus for a permanent and growing public art collection has been started, and though the actual number of pictures and sculptures belonging to the institute is small, there have been a number of most important and successful loan exhibits, both large and small, including during the past year a significant professional art exhibition. Affiliation with Clubs and Societies The sections of the institute are in effect clubs or societies, and rep resent the spontaneous activities of the members. Any group of mem bers, interested in studying some special subject together, can organize as a section of the institute, and so obtain all the special helps which are provided by the institute, such as lecture, lists of reference books, etc. In the practical working out of the plan, there are five large active sec tions which during the past year have increased their membership and carried on various profitable and agreeable activities, such as lectures, classes and meetings. They are French, German, English, fine and in dustrial arts, and professional art. There was organized in November, 191 1, the department of science; this in addition to other functions will direct the future of the museum, which has grown too large to be handled without some specific organization to direct the exhibits and provide for accessions. As a part of the purpose to make itself the center of art interest, cul ture and education in St. Paul, the institute early in its history took over the Art School Association conducting the St. Paul School of Fine Arts, a private organization maintained by an association of earnest women since 1890, which had done some admirable work and established the department known as the St. Paul Institute School of Art. The subjects embraced in its curriculum, include work from the antique, life, still life, costumes, life and portrait classes, water color, sculpture, sketching, com position, general and commercial design, illustration, mural decoration, cartoon and caricature, and handicraft in various lines, such as jewelry, leather work, stenciling, woodblock printing, pottery, ceramics and book binding. This school occupies the third and fourth floors of the audito rium, and is under the direct supervision of the Institute art department. The Institute School of Art, besides being an influence both in cul ture and practical education, is doing effective work in advertising the city and bringing students from other states as well as from every part of Minnesota. There were in the art school during the year 191 1 en rollments from Michigan, Wisconsin, North Dakota, South Dakota, Iowa and Nebraska. Most of the high salaried positions in the line of art and design here are filled by artists trained in the Institute Art School, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 505 and a number of students are doing graduate work here who made their start in other schools. Alliance with Public Schools All the other schools are under the direction of Superintendent Potter of the city schools, and space has been made for them in the public schools. They are so closely allied with the school system as almost to form a part of it, but their expense falls largely upon the institute, except where in one instance it was reinforced by the Builders' Exchange. These classes include evening elementary schools; evening high schools, furnishing courses in academic branches, commercial branches and shop and labora tory training; industrial schools, where classes have been conducted in architectural and mechanical drawing, sheetmetal work, cabinet work and carpentry, pattern making and other technical subjects; this is the school which has received the active support of the Builders' Exchange, and has been largely attended by workmen, thus forming the nucleus of a most practical trade school; school of home economics, including such subjects as cooking, sewing, millinery, home nursing and dietetics; the school of education, primarily for teachers, under the form of university extension courses from the department of education to the University of Minne sota. Suggested Expansion It is the desire of those in authority that the institute should enlarge its educational work in several ways. The first plan would involve its taking entire charge of the social center work, in which a beginning has already been made in the form of free lectures, of which fifty-three were given in 191 1 in the various schoolhouses, with an attendance of about 18,000. Another suggestion is the addition of institute day classes in elementary studies for children under 16 who are obliged to work, and that the institute provide one hundred free scholarships. The third sug gestion is that the institute should co-operate with the school board in establishing an elementary industrial school as a part of the public school system of St. Paul, an undertaking which it is believed would be unique in the United States. It has been estimated that there are more than 75,000 wage earners engaged here in vocations demanding more or less technical skill, and that if $1 were added per week to the pay envelope of each individual, more than $4,000,000 a year would be added to the wealth of the city. With a view to bringing about such an expansion of the pay envelope, the S.t. Paul Institute in cooperation with the Builders' Exchange established these night industrial schools as an experiment. It was found that these schools, by increasing the efficiency of wage earners, had added more than $100,000 to their earning powers. The Latest Development Chapter XLII of this volume describes the important step taken in October, 1912, for the consolidation of the Institute evening schools, un der a special principal, in the new Mechanics Arts high school building. Commenting in this splendid consummation, a Pioneer Press editorial says : "Of course the chief credit is due to the intelligent and energetic management of the Institute. But the school board should come in for 506 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY a liberal meed of praise for its broad-minded cooperation with the Insti tute. It has thus by a wise and liberal policy made the great public invest ment in school buildings and plant available for the use of all the people. The superintendent of schools has been and is an important factor, as the Institute schools come under his general direction. The St. Paul Build ers' Exchange has also given great assistance in developing industrial education on its more practical side. And now, thanks to President Vin cent, the State University has joined this educational combination and is offering university opportunities to St. Paul people who are unable by reason of their vocations and employment to go to Minneapolis to take the regular courses of instruction. The university has thus opened a branch establishment here — as a department of the Institute schools." The courses offered by the University of Minnesota, in conjunction with the Institute are identical with courses offered at the State Univer sity in the freshman and sophomore years, conducted by regular profes sors from the university faculty, and credits will be given, if desired, against regular work for a degree. Some of the subjects: Economics, accounting, advertising, salesmanship, commercial credit, history of edu cation, English literature, geology, German, Greek, medieval and modern history, American political history, Latin, higher mathematics, psychology, public speaking, rhetoric, French, Norwegian literature, Swedish liter ature, sociology, business law. Business Training Equally essential, and even more visibly productive is business train ing. Two kinds of ability are needed — general ability to comprehend the relations of the various parts of the business world to each other and- to the whole, and specialized ability to perform the function of any given part. Practical experience affords the specialized ability. In our modern business world, however, this is necessarily narrow in the extreme. The specialized worker becomes so restricted by his specialty that he learns little or nothing regarding the relations of the various parts. This lack of general ability prevents him from advancing to positions of broader general efficiency. He is compelled to remain in his own narrow field. General ability in business is impossible except through business educa tion. The business world needs especially men of general ability. Its great opportunities are open only to men of broad efficiency. To meet this need the St. Paul Institute has arranged with the University of Min nesota to have three of the most valuable and desirable courses in the University Extension Business School given in St. Paul. The three courses which have been selected will appeal particularly to the ambitious young man who has an eye to preparing himself for important work in the future by broadening his business education. These evening courses carry credit towards a degree for those who contemplate doing addi tional university work in the future either by extension courses, corres pondence courses, or by resident work at the university. A spirit of satisfaction at the manner in which the St. Paul Institute is developing was shown, regardless of the fact that it cost public-spirited citizens who are corporate members of the institution $16,000 to carry on the work. The budget, which has been made up for the coming year, also calls for $16,000 of which approximately $12,500 will be raised by contribution. The cost of running the institute the first year of its ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 507 operation was more than $22,000 and for the second year $30,000. A total of 1,350 students in all classes registered last year. Under its general plan the institute has provided many lectures and has been the means of bringing some very distinguished persons to St. Paul to speak on subjects upon which they were authorities. Two per formances by Ben Greet players were arranged for, and a number of other dramatic, social and musical entertainments have been given. The beautiful Minnesota historical pageant produced in May, 191 1, was not only a brilliant spectacular success, but produced a substantial sum of money for the benefit of the art school. In these and many other ways the St. Paul Institute has sought to stimulate the intellectual activities of the people, to discover and foster their latent talents, and, while rais ing their ideals, to place within their reach the means of realizing their cherished tastes and ambitions. The officers of the institute for 1911-12 are Charles W. Ames, pres ident ; A. B. Stickney, first vice president ; E. H. Bailey, second vice pres ident ; S. G. Smith, third vice president ; W. A. Miller, treasurer ; Arthur Sweeney, secretary; Charles J. Hunt, business manager. German Section of the Institute Out of a handful of Germans, who three years ago founded a German section of the St. Paul Institute, is developing the strongest intellectual German organization in this city. At the annual meeting in April, 191 1, the lovers and promoters of German language, art and literature, decided definitely that if was time that the large German population of St. Paul. estimated at 55,000, should be represented not only by singing and athletic societies, but also by a body of people whose aim is to uphold and spread among the second generation of German-Americans, the gems of art which have helped to bring the Vaterland to the rank in which it stands today among the nations of the world. It will be seen from this sketch of its plan and purposes, that the scope of the institute is intensely practical. It opens the door of oppor tunity to every ambitious man or woman, to conserve their time, energy and talents; to increase their efficiency, earning power and happiness. In plain language it says to them: If by paying $5.00 to $7.50 tuition and studying, in your spare time, from sixteen to twenty weeks, you can in crease your salary one dollar a week, you will get a larger profit on your investment than you could get from the luckiest speculation. The man who knows how to do something that is needed will always find it possible to make money. There are never enough competent work men to fill waiting places, while, on the other hand, there are always so many incompetent workmen that their wages are kept down by the com petition, just as there are always plenty of men who are so busy talking that they have_no time to work or even to think. You will find a hun dred young men or young women who want to go to work, but cannot do anything in particular, for ten who are fairly well trained or for one who is thoroughly competent. You can easily figure out the comparative weight of their pay envelopes. Anyone who is ambitious to make the most of himself, and to get enough money to take some satisfaction out of life, must know how to do some special thing and to do it well. The St. Paul Institute stands ready to help every worker in St. Paul to im prove his situation in life. The courses supply training that will make 508 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY all the difference between success and failure for hundreds of young people. St. Paul Artists The activities of the St. Paul Institute in artistic fields find fertile ground, already prepared to cordially welcome them. Seriously lacking in organized effort, in accessible art collections and in facilities for art culture, the city has, nevertheless, for many years been the home of skilled artists, and has developed architects of more than national renown. The fact that soon after its formation, the professional art section of the institute had more than forty members, is sufficient indication of the facts above stated. The late Carl Gutherz practically commenced his highly successful career in St. Paul about 1872. Several of his portraits of Minnesota Governors adorn the state capitol ; one of his. latest works, an allegorical painting, is seen in the grand arch at the People's Church. He exhibited many times at the Paris salons. He furnished the series of allegories for the ceiling of the Representatives reading room at the National Library in Washington, which have won the tribute of unstinted praise from art critics. His sister, Mrs. Mark D. Flower, residing in St. Paul, possesses several of Mr. Gutherz's choicest productions. A St. Paul artist who has attained much distinction in America and Europe is J. D. Larpenteur, of a family historic in all periods of our city's annals. Mr. Larpenteur's specialty has been animal pictures, in which he has acquired great fame. While Mr. Larpeijteur has re sided and worked in Paris for many years, he has, at intervals, lived in, Minnesota, and some of his best pictures have been painted here. St. Paul collectors possess several of his most celebrated productions. Miss Helen Castle of St. Paul won the first prize for water-color painting at the Corcoran Art Exhibition in Washington a few years' ago, and many of her flower pictures are to be seen in private galleries in Eastern cities. Miss Castle's painting of the Minnesota state flower, the cypripedium (moccasin flower) was adopted as the official represen tation, and has been reproduced, in colors, many hundreds of thousand times in the Legislative Manual and other publications. Nathaniel J. Pousette has the distinction of being a "French artist," born in Minnesota, who is painting Minnesota subjects with a skill and devotion which must necessarily command local enthusiasm. Of all the flags Minnesota has been under — Spanish, French, English, American — it is under the banner of the lily of France that her true romantic past is found. And it requires the brush of the painter to fortify, to make "visible," the word of the historian, of the story-teller, which would persuade us of our French origin. The first men other than the native children of the forest and prairie, to look upon the face of Minnesota, its lovely meadows and majestic forests and rolling rivers, and call it good, were men who owed fealty to Louis the Fourteenth. They came, some of them to save souls, some of them to capture trade, if indeed it might be called "trade" when the magnificent furs of three centuries ago were bartered for a string of beads. But whether they came for the saving of souls, like Marquette, or for simple curiosity's sake, like Hennepin, for the glory of discovery, like La Salle, or for the prosaics of trade, like DuLhut, they came romantically, picturesquely. They slip shadowily as yet through the forests, over the prairies. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 509 The fact that Nathaniel J. Pousette was born and brought up in Minnesota is not, in itself, significant. He might have been born in Timbuctoo. The significant fact is that he is producing Minnesota art. And since Minnesota is so ideally situated from an art standpoint, lying as it does midway between the art culture and academic tradition of the east and the splendid freedom of the west, it is no small compliment to Mr. Pousette to say that he is producing Minnesota art. And indeed it is just this nicely poised balance between the two extremes of thought and method that impresses one most in Mr. Pousette's work. Wholly and progressively modern it is, and impressionistic to a degree, yet at bottom it is sane and conservative. Mr. Pousette paints with a direct ness and sincerity, a genuineness and freedom from affectation which remind one of Millet, although his color, which is unusually beautiful, shows the influence of Puvis de Chavannes. His composition is excel lent — so uniformly excellent that one does not think of it at all. Of Pousette's snow pictures, St. Paul's luminous exponent writes, from the ever-observant Watch Tower in the Dispatch office: "They are of snow other than ours, and they are snowy, cold, with the curious quality of veiling so present in the summer pictures, shrouding these also, but with change. It is something other than atmosphere, some thing other than that peculiar thing which Bosuki, the Japanese, invited to our attention a winter or two ago. That it is there and can be seen, one admits; it is also very individually Pousette. But the snows are quiet, while the Minnesota snows, until they fall and lie still, are most busy. Nowhere else in all the world does snow come with such joyance; the crisp air has given individuality to each flake. They do not fall dully; they are never mere flakes of snow falling from sky to earth. There is no hesitation about them, but they do have a lively time of it, whether blown about or dancing down. No poet, no painter, has as yet caught the drift of Minnesota snows, their beauty or their terror. There is still the possibility." The beautiful arts are vivid expressions of culture and refinement, which have their exalted place in our scheme of social progress. The practical arts, combining beauty with utility, have a place of equal im portance, and of perhaps greater general interest. A due regard to the style and proportions of our utensils, furniture, vehicles, dwellings and business structures, is ever to be kept and cultivated. Some years ago this country began to attract attention by the artistic character of its manufactures. During the last twenty years it has made great strides in the fine arts. Our mural painters take rank with the most distin guished artists of France; and in architecture also we are doing work which challenges the admiration of Europe. At a recent meeting of the Royal Society of Arts Club in London, after a paper which an Amer ican, Frank M. Andrews, had been invited to present on architecture in America, the president of the club made some highly complimentary remarks on what America is doing in this line. He called attention especially to- the fact that the American people are keenly interested in architectural matters, and by their interest and their comments on his work greatly encourage and stimulate the architect. He said our artists were boldly solving the new problems presented to them by original but thoroughly correct designs, and he expressed a deep interest in them and the works they were producing. 510 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Prominent Architects No American city, small or great, has surpassed St. Paul in the development of architects of the highest type, capable of sustained flights into the loftiest spheres of this noble and expanding art. Not only have our own people reaped the benefit of their splendid genius in the magnificence of our home structures, but we have loaned their serv ices to other communities less richly endowed, to the nation and to the world. Charles A. Reed, who died in November, 191 1, left many imposing monuments to his professional skill. He was a native of New York state and received his education at the Boston Institute of Technology. He cajne to St. Paul shortly after graduation, thirty-one years ago. He formed his partnership with A. H. Stem in 1891. Ten years ago he was called to New York to take up the problem of constructing the $30,- 000,000 terminal station of the New York Central Railroad, and estab lished the New York office of the firm there. St. Paul's municipal Auditorium, admitted to be the best of its kind in the world, was planned under the supervision of his firm, and many of his ideas are worked out in it. The hotel St. Paul is another undertaking in which he was interested, and the Metropolitan Opera House was constructed under his personal supervision. The Goodkind twin residences on Oak land Hill are the work of his firm, and many of the residences along Summit avenue owe their design to him. The architects of the new Lowry building are Kees & Colburn, with offices in both St. Paul and Minneapolis. Mr. Kees was born in Balti more, came to Minnesota in 1876, and has had charge of building many great structures in the Twin City. James Knox Taylor, born in St. Paul, son of the late H. Knox Taylor for more than fifty years' one of our prominent citizens, began his pro fessional career in this city as a partner of Cass Gilbert. In 1898 Mr. Taylor was appointed supervising architect of the treasury at Wash ington. In this position he has charge of and responsibility for the de signs and construction of all the government buildings of the country. The great bureau over which he presides, controls the expenditure of many millions annually and is subject to most exacting criticism from many directions. The fact that Mr. Taylor has fully met the responsi bilities for fourteen years, is a high tribute to his ability. Clarence H. Johnston was born in Waseca, Minnesota, and reared in St. Paul. He received his professional training in the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and in the offices of St. Paul and New York architects, supplemented by extensive travel in Europe and Asia Minor. In 1886 he returned to St. Paul, where he has since made his home and entered upon his career as architect upon his own account. In 1901 he received the appointment of architect for Minnesota State Institutions, conferred by the Board of Control, which office he still holds. One of his works, under that appointment, is the new Minnesota State Prison at Stillwater, a very striking type of penal institutional buildings. Mr. Johnston is also in his official capacity the architect of the new engineer ing and medical buildings at the university; of the main building at the Farm School, St. Anthony Park, and of buildings at all state insti tutions. His productions may also be seen in St. John's Episcopal church ; Park Congregational church ; the chapel at St. Paul's Seminary ; the Young Men's and Young Women's Christian Association buildings; ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 511 TALLEST BUILDING IN THE WORLD BROADWAY, NEW YORK, CASS GILBERT, OF ST. PAUL, ARCHITECT 512 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY the new Central High School, and the Wilder Charity buildings, all thoroughly characteristic of his best work. Emmanuel Louis Masqueray will always be associated in the minds of the people of St. Paul as the architect of the Cathedral, which will cost, complete, $2,000,000, have a seating capacity of 4,000, and be one of the notable architectural triumphs of the age. Born at Dieppe in France, in 1861, he studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris, won the Deschaume prize when only eighteen, and four years later took the gold medal at the Paris salon. At the age of twenty-six he came to New York. When designs were asked for the Louisiana Purchase ex position at St. Louis, Mr. Masqueray succeeded in getting the commis sion for nearly all the beautiful buildings on the grounds, among those erected under his instruction being the transportation, agricultural, fisheries and forestries buildings. Among other notable buildings which he has designed, the Pro-Cathedral at Minneapolis is next to the St. Paul Cathedral in importance. Thomas G. Holyoke designed the beautiful and original Unity church on Portland avenue, and many handsome private residences, among them those of the Messrs. C. H. and F. R. Bigelow, also on Portland avenue; the colonial house belonging to ex-Lieutenant Governor Ives on Dale street and Marshall avenue, and the stately colonial home of George W. Gardner on Summit and Farrington avenues. Cass Gilbert is another of St. Paul's notable contributions to national activity and international fame. The son of a distinguished general officer of volunteers in the War for the Union, he was reared in this city, receiving a thorough professional education in the best schools of this country and Europe. He won, after severe competition, the privilege of designing and superintending the construction of the new Minnesota state capitol. He designed the magnificent United States Custom House on Bowling Green, New York City. And to him now belongs the honor of preparing plans for the tallest skyscraper in the world, a building that is exceeded in height by only one structure, the Eiffel tower. This skyscraper is now under construction in New York City. It is located on the west side of Broadway, between Park place and Barclay street, and when completed will be an artistic as well as an imposing structure. The designing of this mammoth building has brought up new structural problems, and in working out the plan so that every part of its enor mous business machinery will be in perfect harmony, Architect Gilbert prepared hundreds of drawings, employed the best engineering skill and made detailed studies of other large structures. A faint idea of this mammoth undertaking may be gleaned by a study of the size of the building. The plans provide that the structure shall rise 750 feet above the sidewalk. It is estimated to have cost $3,500,000. The site cost over $4,500,000. Excavation alone cost $1,000,00. The building has a frontage on Broadway of 152 feet, on Park place of 197, and on Barclay street 192 feet. The characteristic feature is the great tower, 86 by 84 feet, rising to a height of 750 feet. The main building is twenty-nine stories high, with two stories in the gables on the north and south fronts, making thirty-one stories at the highest points of the main structure. The unique position held by Hermann Kretz in St. Paul is the com bination role of architect, builder and owner of this city's latest word in office structures, the mammoth new Commerce building, at Wabasha ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 513 and Fourth streets, completed and occupied in September, 1912. Mr. Kretz represents that rare conjunction, in a single personality, of artistic skill and business ability, which must lead to marked success in any sphere. His biography, in another volume of this publication, gives details of his achievements CHAPTER XLVII THE CATHOLIC CHURCH AND CATHOLIC. INSTITUTIONS Founder of First St. Paul's Christian Church — Father Lucien Galtier — First Native White Child, Bazille Gervais — Father Ravoux Succeeds Father Galtier — First Bishop of St. Paul — Death of Bishop Cretin — First Cathedral Opened — Bishop Thomas L. Grace — Bishop Ireland Created Archbishop — St. Louis Church — St. Mary's and Other Catholic Churches — Edu cational Institutions — Charitable Institutions — Diocese of St. Paul— Latest Cathedral of St. Paul. From its historic relations to the very beginning of the village of St. Paul; from its intimate, influential part in all stages of our progress, and from its present as well as its prospective importance as a compact, efficient organization for the public weal, the Catholic church, with its varied religious, educational, benevolent and reformatory enterprises, is abundantly entitled to consideration in any attempted portrayal of the past achievements or present consequence of the city. The Catholic church, indeed, was active in all the earliest explorations and settle ments of this region. Father Hennepin visited the "Falls of St. Anthony of Padua," in 1680 ; two missionary priests accompanied the French soldiers, who built a fort and chapel in 1727, at Frontenac, on Lake Pepin. Moreover, if we accept the testimony of the runestone, Catholic Norsemen, undoubtedly accompanied by a priest who made the record, visited Douglas county, Minnesota, in 1362. Founder of First St. Paul's Christian Church The founder of religion in St. Paul was practically the founder of the city itself. By erecting the first house of worship he gave to the "little scattering French settlement below Fort Snelling" a local habita tion and a name, and created the nucleus around which eventually grew the metropolis. He seems from the first to have hoped good results from his undertakings, and it is pleasant to know that he lived until he had seen at least the dawnings of the glory. He saw the humble settle ment rise to a city; he witnessed his modest little cabin church give place to magnificent . temples devoted to divine worship, and his little flock increased to multitudes. Finis coronat opus. All honor to Father Lucien Galtier, the founder of the first Christian church in St. Paul. The preliminary events are of enduring interest. In the summer of 1839 Bishop Loras, of Dubuque, visited Fort Snelling and Mendota, with a view to the establishment of mission churches in that region, which was practically destitute of religious advantages, but was imperatively 514 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 515 in need of them. In a letter he gives an account of this visit : "I left Dubuque on the 23d of June, on board a large and magnificent steam vessel. After a voyage of some days along the superb Mississippi, we reached St. Peter's. Our arrival was a cause of great joy to the Catholics, who had never before seen a priest or bishop in those remote regions. The wife of our host was baptized and confirmed; she subse quently received the sacrament of matrimony. The Catholics of St. Peter's amount to 183 ; of whom we baptized 56 ; administered confirma tion to 8; the communion to 33 adults, and gave the nuptial benediction to four couples. Arrangements have been made for the construction of a church next summer, and a clergyman is to be sent when he is able to speak French, English and the Sioux." The religious services held by Bishop Loras, the first Catholic bap tism, etc., in the "St. Peter's" region, were at the house of Scott Camp bell, outside the walls of Fort Snelling. Father Lucien Galtier In April, 1840, Father Lucien Galtier, having studied the Sioux language during the winter, was sent by Bishop Loras from Dubuque to Fort Snelling, charged with the duties of his sacred office. The fort "surrounded by a complete wilderness, and without any signs of fields under the tillage," gave him to understand that his mission and life must henceforth be a career of privations, and required patience and resignation. He had a large territory under his charge. There was no St. Paul at that time; there was on the site of the present city but a single house, occupied by a man named Phalen, and steamboats never stopped there. Subsequently a few families of French extraction, quaint in idiom and idiosyncrasy, settled along the left bank of the river, below Fountain cave, and Father Galtier felt it his duty to occasionally visit those families and set to work to choose a suitable place for a church. Benjamin Gervais and Vital Guerin, two good quiet farmers, con sented to give sufficient land for a church, a garden and a small grave yard. The extreme eastern part of Mr. Guerin's claim, and the western part of Mr. Gervais' were accepted. In the month of October, 1840, Father Galtier caused a rude structure to be erected, about twenty-five feet long by eighteen wide. The builders were eight of the farmer- parishioners ; the walls were of rough oak logs ; the rafters were tamarack poles cut from a swamp at St. Peter and Sixth streets ; the roof was of pine slabs from a sawmill at Stillwater. The graveyard was near the present corner of Third and Minnesota streets. Father Galtier was not at any time a resident of St. Paul, but only came here at intervals from St. Peter's (Mendota) in the discharge of his pastoral duties. He continued to reside at St. Peter's until May 25, 1844, when he removed to Keokuk, Iowa. In 1848 he visited his native France, but was soon back at work in his mission field. He was then stationed at Prairie du Chien. In 1853, and again in 1865, he visited St. Paul, and manifested a warm pride in the growth of the city, and its prospects of future greatness. Less than a year after his last visit, or February 21, 1866, he entered into his reward. During his connec tion with the churches here, Father Galtier made several excursions to the isolated Catholic settlements in various portions of this territory, sometimes by Mackinaw boats, sometimes on foot, always undergoing hardships and difficulties. vol. n— 5 516 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY First Native White Child, Bazille Gervais In the fall of 1841, Rev. Augustin Ravoux arrived from Prairie du Chien where, May 10, 1840, he had baptized Bazille Gervais, who was the first white child born here, September 4, 1839, and who still lives here, his parents making a canoe trip of fifteen days to have the sacra ment of baptism administered. Father Ravoux Succeeds Father Galtier In 1844 Father Ravoux succeeded Father Galtier, and during the remainder of his long and honored life, which terminated in 1904, he ministered in St. Paul and its immediate vicinity. In 1847, an addition was made to the chapel of St. Paul as stated, but in 1849 the chapel was again too small, the Sunday services being attended not only by parishioners living in St. Paul, but by many from Little Canada, St. Anthony and Mendota. In 1847, the Catholics became more populous in St. Paul than in Mendota, and in 1849, their numbers still continuing to increase, Father Ravoux decided to spend two Sundays in St. Paul and one in Mendota. For seven years this worthy missionary continued to labor in this field without the aid or companionship of a brother priest. First Bishop of St. Paul On January 26, 1851, Rev. Joseph Cretin was consecrated in France, the first bishop of St. Paul. He arrived here July 2, 1851, and was joy fully welcomed by Father Ravoux. The new bishop brought with him two priests and four seminarians. Thus had the little parish, with its chapel of tamarack logs, grown into a diocese, now an arch-diocese and province, but the chapel of logs was the only "cathedral" as yet, and the episcopal palace to which the bishop was conducted, was a building one story and a half high and eighteen feet square. Before Bishop Cretin came, Father Ravoux, aware of the necessity of securing lots on which to erect the cathedral and for other church pur poses, purchased of Mr. Vital Guerin twenty-one lots for $800, and for $100 the lot on which the old cathedral now stands. The twenty-two lots embraced almost the entire block bounded by Wabasha and St. Peter, Sixth and Seventh streets. Father Ravoux was unable to pay the purchase price, and had only a bond for a deed; but Bishop Cretin paid the money for the twenty-two lots and received the deed. In less than five months after his arrival the bishop had erected, on the Guerin lots, a brick building 84 by 44 feet in area and three stories, including the basement, in height, which immediately upon its completion became the second cathedral of St. Paul and the second residence of the bishop and his assistants. In a few months some apartments in the basement were used as a school room for boys, and the entire building in later years became the Cretin high school. The young girls of the parish were also to be provided for, and in 1852 the Sisters of St. Joseph opened their schools in the church property on the Catholic block, on Third street. In 1853, the bishop built the hospital, contributing thereto from his own funds. The same year he bought the property on Western avenue where St. Joseph's Aca demy now stands, for a Catholic cemetery; but it was only used two or three years for that purpose. In 1856 he purchased forty acres for Calvary cemetery, which was blessed the second of November, the same ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 517 year. Excavation for the cathedral at St. Peter and Sixth streets, was commenced in July 1854, and in 1856 the corner stone was blessed by the Bishop of Buffalo, Mgr. Timon, and on the last day of October the walls were up to the water table. Bishop Cretin feared to incur debt, and the work proceeded slowly. Though the Catholic population was large, with few exceptions the people were poor, and could help but little. The amount of money collected from July, 1854, to February, 1857, did not exceed four thousand dollars, though in that time seven thousand dol lars was expended on the cathedral. Then the work was interrupted by the death of the Bishop, and was still further delayed by the financial panic of 1857. Death of Bishop Cretin Bishop Cretin died February 22, 1857, after a long and painful ill ness. He was born in France in 1799; came to America in 1838, by in vitation of Bishop Loras of Dubuque ; spent some twelve years as a mis sionary in Iowa and western Wisconsin, and in 1850 was appointed to the newly created see of St. Paul, where he arrived July 2, 1851. Though his time in St. Paul was short, Bishop Cretin left among his people an ineffaceable memory. It was he who selected Rev. John Ireland for the Christian ministry, and sent him abroad to prosecute his studies. It was he who organized the first Catholic total abstinence societies in St. Paul or Minnesota — a temperance movement which, in later years, under the inspiration of the tireless Archbishop was to do so much for the moral and material advancement of the faithful. Bishop Cretin was remark able for genuine piety and unbounded zeal. His early demise was no doubt hastened by ceaseless labors in his sacred calling. Thus we have in the beginnings of. the Catholic church here, as in the beginnings of the town, the dominant French element — Loras, Gal tier, Ravoux, Cretin; all Frenchmen. The story of the rise and fall of the French power in America is one of the greatest epics in the records of mankind, filled with romance and dramatic adventure. Their explorers, traders, soldiers and missionaries penetrated the Northwest from the St. Lawrence to the Columbia and the Saskatchewan, ahead of all others, and left their indelible impress on the geography, the history and the customs of the entire region. First Cathedral Opened By the death of Bishop Cretin the administration of church affairs again devolved on Father Ravoux. Work was resumed on the cathe dral and didv not cease until it was under roof. On the 13th of June, 1858, though unfinished and not plastered, it was opened for divine serv ice. The collections on that day amounted to $428. In the summer of 1858 the basement was plastered and used for worship the following winter, and was often filled with worshipers. On Christmas night, 1858, there were not fewer than 2,000 persons at mass, and about 500 pre sented themselves at the holy table for communion. The building was constructed of blue limestone and is still, in 1912, in constant use, pend ing the completion of the magnificent new granite cathedral at Summit and Dayton avenues. Its congregation now numbers 5,500 members, under the pastorship of Bishop Lawler. The cathedral school for girls has 205 pupils taught by six Sisters of St. Joseph. 518 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Bishop Thomas L. Grace The successor of Bishop Cretin was the Right Rev. Thomas L. Grace who was consecrated Bishop of St. Paul, July 24, 1859. Bishop Grace was born in Charleston, South Carolina, November 16, 1814, and died in St. Paul, February 22, 1897. After studying in Charleston, and at St. Rose's Convent, Kentucky, he spent seven years in Rome studying theology. He was ordained priest at Rome in 1839, and five years later returned to the United States. He was engaged in missionary work in Kentucky and Tennessee for some years, and was in charge of a parish in Memphis when appointed bishop. He then came to St. Paul. The work of the large diocese taxed his energies to the utmost for sixteen years until in 1875, he had northern Minnesota, set off as a vicarate and Rev. John Ireland appointed coadjutor bishop. In 1884, after his silver jubilee, Bishop Grace resigned his see to Bishop Ireland, became titular Bishop of Menith and, later, titular Archbishop of Siunia, but remained in this city, honored and beloved during the remainder of his life. Bishop Ireland Created Archbishop Bishop Ireland assumed the full duties of the diocese in 1884. In 1888 the province of St. Paul was created and Bishop Ireland was made Archbishop. His jurisdiction covers the sees of St. Paul, Duluth, St. Cloud, Winona, Fargo, Sioux Falls, Lead, Crookston and Bismark, each in charge of a bishop. The distinguished career of Archbishop Ireland is fully set forth in his biography, to be found in another part of this work. Returning to the local development of the Catholic church in this city, we find that in 1854 the original stem began to throw out vigorous branches. The operation of dividing into congregations by parishes and nationalities was inaugurated. During that year, Rev. Wuerzfeld or ganized the German Catholics of St. Paul. The congregation at that time attended service at the cathedral. In the year 1855, Rev. G. Keller, perfected arrangements for the erection of Assumption Church. The ceremony of laying the corner stone took place August 15, 1855, and in June of the following year, the church was ready for occupancy. The same year a parochial school was opened. The Fathers of the Order of St. Benedict took charge of the congregation January 1, 1858. Rev. Demetrias de Marogana, O. S. B., was duly installed as pastor, on the same day, and labored zealously until failing health compelled him to resign his charge into the hands of Rev. Clement Staub, O. S. B., in 1863. A few years later, steps were taken for the erection of the pres ent imposing structure. Ground was broken and the foundation walls ^ built in the summer of 1870. On June 4, 1871, the corner stone was laid, and the work was vigorously prosecuted until its completion in 1874. On the 1 8th of October, 1874, the church was solemnly consecrated by the Rt. Rev. Bishop Thos. L. Grace, assisted by a large number of the clergy. It is still one of the great edifices of the city, its twin towers testifying the zeal and piety of its builders. In 1875 Father Staub was succeeded by Rev. Valentine Stimmler, O. S. B. The pastor now is Rev. Paulin Wiesner, O. S. B ; membership 1,800. The parish has parochial schools with 300 pupils, there are many church societies connected with the parish. The growth and progress of the congregation has been wonder ful; this was due in great measure to the thrift, energy and perseverance ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 519 of the people, and in a still greater measure to the able and energetic management of the Benedictine Fathers. St. Louis Church French-speaking Catholics were the nucleus of the original church of St. Paul, and for many years they worshiped in the cathedral. In 1868 a French parish was organized and the congregation erected a frame church 70 by 33 feet, on the corner of Tenth and Cedar streets. The priest's residence adjoining the church was built in 1870. The St. Louis' school, on the lot opposite, was opened in the fall of 1873. In March, 1881, the stone church built by the Universalist society, corner of Ex change and Wabasha streets, opposite the capitol was purchased. It was partly refitted in the interior to adapt it to the forms of Catholic wor ship, and on April 24, 1881, was dedicated with the prescribed ceremonies of the church by Bishop Ireland in the presence of the congregation, the French national societies, and a large number of visitors. Rev. G. A. Schmirer was the first pastor of St. Louis' Church, and continued in service until his death in 1873. The Oblate Fathers, Revs. Vanden- bergh, Lauzon, Cauvin, Lebret and Therien, had charge of the parish from 1873 to 1877, and were succeeded by Rev. G. Hubert. He was in turn succeeded by Rev. A. Payette, under whose administration the stone church was purchased. The present pastor is Rev. Paul Rulquin, S. M. The membership of the church is about 4,000. Meantime traffic and business so encroached on the Wabasha street site that in 1906 it was sold, and. a fine new church was built near the location of the original structure at Tenth and Cedar streets. The parochial school building on Tenth street, near by, has two hundred and fifty pupils and five Sisters of St. Joseph. St. Mary's and Other Catholic Churches St. Mary's church is located on Ninth street, corner of Locust; or ganized in 1867; membership about two thousand. Rev. L. Caillet was the first pastor. The corner stone was laid in 1866 and in 1867 the church was dedicated. In 1879 a parochial school, attached to the church, was opened with one hundred and twenty scholars and three teachers, and has now ten teachers and four hundred and sixty pupils. In September, 1873, occurred the opening of the Academy of the Sisters of the Visita tion, for the education of young ladies, with about forty-five pupils and seven teachers. The following were the charitable societies con nected in its early days, with St. Mary's church : Conference of St. Vin cent de Paul, organized July 1867, for the relief of the poor; member ship about fifty. Ladies' Society of the Rosary, for the relief of the poor, was instituted in 1867, with a membership of about one hundred and fifty. The Catholic orphan asylum was located corner Olive and Grove streets. Rev. J. C. Byrne is now the pastor. St. Michael's church was established in 1868. For many years the church was served by priests from the cathedral. At the time of its establishment there were about fifty families. The church is located in the Sixth ward, West St. Paul. The location is one of the finest in the city, being on a rise of ground with a splendid view. There is a com fortable brick parsonage adjoining the church. In February, 1879, Rev. P. J. Gallagher was appointed permanent pastor. He was succeeded by 520 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Rev. Patrick O'Neill, who is still in charge. The school is in charge of eight Sisters of St. Joseph. St. Joseph's parish was cut off from the cathedral and organized in 1875. Rev- L. Lebret was the first pastor. In the fall of the same year the erection of a church was begun, and so energetically was the wprk pushed forward that mass was said in it on Christmas day following. The cost of the building was about $10,000. Two schools, for boys and girls, were organized soon after and placed under the charge of the Sisters of St. Joseph. Father Lebret continued in the pastoral charge of the church until in June, 1877. In March, 1878, Rev. Joseph O'Keefe became pastor and was succeeded in August, 1880, by Rev J. W. Nealis. The parish is now a part of the cathedral with Right Rev. John J. Law- ler, D. D., V. G., pastor in charge. The membership is about 4,500. Its parochial school now has 365 children in charge of seven Sisters of St. Joseph. There are connected with St. Joseph's Church a temper ance society; a St. Vincent de Paul conference; a Holy Name Society; confraternities, sodalities, etc. The church building stands on Carroll street, at the southwest corner of Virginia avenue. St. Stanislaus Church was organized in 1870 by the Catholic Poles and Bohemians of the city. It served the two nationalities until in 1881, when they separated. The Bohemians, with a membership of 175 fami lies, retained St. Stanislaus, while the Poles, with 100 families, organized St. Adelbert's Church. The church building was erected in 1870, and stands on the corner of Western avenue and Superior street. Seven Sisters of Notre Dame teach the parochial school. Pupils 230. The present membership of St. Stanislaus is about 1,900 and the pastor is Rev. John Rynda, who has served the parish more than twenty years. Church of St. James, located on View street, corner of Juneau street, organized in 1887; membership 1,500; pastor Rev. Jeremiah O'Connor. Church of the Sacred Heart (German), located on East Sixth street, at the corner of Arcade street ; organized December 14, 1881 ; member ship 1,600; pastor Valerius Nelles, O. F. M. Eight school Sisters of Notre Dame have charge of the school. Pupils 405. Church of St. John, located on Forest and East Fifth streets; mem bership 1,700; pastor Rev. Thomas F Gleason. Six Sisters of St. Joseph's teach the school. Pupils 305. St. Adelbert's church (Polish), located on Gaultier street, at the' corner of Charles street; organized in 1881 ; membership 2,900; pastor Rev. Peter Rov. Eight Felician Sisters teach in the school. Enrollment 438. St. Francis de Sales Church, located on James street, at the corner of Daly; organized in 1884; membership 3,500; pastor Rev Francis N. Bajec. Sixteen Sisters of Notre Dame teach in the school with an en rollment of 650 pupils. St. Matthew's church (German), located on Hall avenue, at the cor ner of Robie street; organized in February, 1886; membership 2.500; pastor Rev. P. M. Jung. The school is taught by eleven school Sisters of Notre Dame. Enrollment 560. St. Patrick's church, located on Mississippi street, at the corner of Case street; organized December 21, 1884; membership 2,000; pastor, Rev. Michael Quinn. The school is in charge of four Sisters of St. Joseph. Enrollment 238. Holy Redeemer (for use of the Italian population) — West wing of the cathedral basement, St. Peter street. Membership 500. Rev. R. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 521 Balducci, pastor. St. Ambrose church (Italian) located on Bradley street near 7th. Rev. R. Balducci, pastor. 400 members. St. Agnes church — Thomas street corner Kent. Organized 1888. Membership 5,800. Rev. J. M. Solnce, pastor. School in charge of nineteen Sisters of Notre Dame, 980 children. St. Andrew's — Oxford and Hatch streets. Organized 1895. Member ship 1,200. Rev. Thomas A. Printon, pastor. St. Augustine's — Madison avenue and Third street, South St. Paul. Membership 950. Rev. Henry G. McCall, pastor. St. Bernard's (German) — Albemarle and Geranium streets. Organ ized 1890. Membership 3,500. Rev. Anthony Ogulin, pastor. School taught by fourteen Sisters of St. Benedict; pupils 700. St. Casimir's (Polish) — Jessamine and Forest streets. Organized December 28, 1888. Membership 2,500. Rev Paul Kuperschmidt, pastor. The school is in charge of five Felician Sisters. School children 248. St. Luke's — Victoria street and Summit avenue. Organized 1888. Membership 4,500. Rev. Thomas J. Gibbons, pastor. The school is in charge of eight Sisters of St. Joseph and has 438 pupils. St. Mark's — Dayton avenue and Moore street. Organized 1891. Rev. Joseph Corrigan, pastor. Membership 3,280. St. Peter Claver's — Aurora and Farrington avenues. Membership 370. Afro-American. Rev. S. Theobald, pastor, residence 319 Fuller avenue. St. Vincent's — Virginia avenue and Blair street. Organized 1889. Membership 2,500. Rev. William Walsh, pastor. The school is taught by six Sisters of St. Joseph. Enrollment 340. In addition to the regular established churches, religious services are conducted in twelve chapels, connected with the various Catholic educa tional and charitable institutions of the city, also at Fort Snelling, the Sol diers' Home, the poor house, the work house etc. These chapels are at tended from the Cathedral or from neighboring churches, thus supplying the privileges and consolations of religion to the entire Catholic popula tion of St. Paul and vicinity. Educational Institutions A noteworthy feature in connection with the operations of the Cath olic church in St. Paul is the extraordinary number and excellence of schools and colleges maintained here. Many of them have extensive grounds and very beautiful buildings. St. Paul Theological Seminary, the provincial seminary of the ecclesiastical province of St. Paul, com prising the dioceses of St. Paul, Duluth, St. Cloud, Winona, Fargo, Sioux Falls, Lead, Crookston and Bismarck, has forty acres of land fronting on the river boulevard at the western extremity of Summit avenue, and buildings which cost $310,000, including St. Mary's Chapel, which alone cost $70,000. This seminary was founded by J. J. Hill, in 1892. Very Rev. Francis J. Schaefer, D. D., is rector and professor of church his tory. There are twelve professors of different branches, and over 170 students. Graduates of this seminary are filling with marked .efficiency the pulpits of churches in many lands. One of the most useful and important of the Catholic institutions of the city, of interest to clergy and laity and to intelligent citizens of all creeds, is the St. Paul Catholic Historical Society, which has its head quarters at St. Paul Seminary. This society was organized April, 1905. 522 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Its first officers were: Most Rev. John Ireland, D. D., honorary presi dent; Rev. Francis J. Schaefer, president; Rev. Jas. M. Reardon, sec retary and librarian. Its primary object is to collect and preserve materials of all kinds relating to the Catholic history of the Ecclesiastical Province of St.' Paul; its secondary object to gather and correlate all available in formation concerning the history of the Catholic church in the northwest. Its charter members included the archbishop and bishops of the prov ince; the Abbots Engel and Wehrle, and a large number of the clergy. The society holds meetings for reading and discussing papers ; has estab lished a library and museum for the preservation of historic materials, and publishes a semi-annual periodical containing selected documents from the archives of the society. This periodical is entitled "Acta et Dicta;" each issue contains 150 to 200 pages, magazine form, presenting a number of exceedingly valuable historical papers, besides a review of notable current events in the Province and a current necrology. Its pages are of vivid interest in that they give many heretofore unpublished records and letters relating to the beginnings and progress of civilization in this region. The officers of the Historical Society for 191 1 are: Most Rev. John Ireland, D. D., honorary president; Very Rev. Francis J. Schaefer, D. D., president ; Right Rev. John J. Lawler, D. D., vice presi dent; Rev. Patrick A. Sullivan, secretary, librarian and editor of Acta et Dicta; Rev. John Seleskar, Ph. D., treasurer. The College of St. Thomas, situated near the banks of the Mississippi, north of Summit avenue, is a very large preparatory and military school for boys, in successful operation since 1885, and has two or three times been selected as "honor school" which is the highest distinction the war department can bestow. It is a diocesan institution, and among its stu dents are to be found boys from many states besides Minnesota, rang ing from New York to California. The students number 697. Very Rev. Humphrey Moynihan, D. D., is rector, assisted by twenty-four pro fessors and college officers. The students are organized into a battalion of cadets, under discipline prescribed by a resident officer of the United States army, and are very proficient in maneuvers and drills. Visitation Convent is one of the oldest, best and most exclusive of the Catholic schools of St. Paul. It was organized in 1873, and belongs to the order of the Religious of the Visitation of Our Lady, founded in Savoy in 1610. The grounds at the head of Robert street, are beautifully located and spacious ; the course of study is comprehensive, and the most careful individual attention is given each pupil. Both day and boarding pupils are admitted. Sister M. Clementine is directress, with twenty- one teachers. There are 105 pupils. The Academy of St. Joseph is a large and important day school with a handsome modern building, at the corner of Western and Nelson ave nues, in the heart of the residential district. It is managed by the Sis ters of St. Joseph, and is under the immediate direction of Archbishop Ireland. The school is for young ladies, is admirably conducted, and has a particularly fine musical department. The registration last year reached over four hundred. It is expected that the novitiate and train ing school now under construction will provide the additional space already much needed. Sister M. Eugenia is directress, and has twenty-six teach ers. This academy was among the first educational institutions for girls established in the city, and was long since recognized as a standard in its line. The College of St. Catherine is a boarding school for girls, founded ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 523 in 1905, by the Sisters of St. Joseph. It is beautifully located on the Mississippi river at Cleveland avenue and Randolph street and its stu dents number from 125 to 150. Its standard of scholarship is very high, and its graduates are accredited to the University of Minnesota. It pre scribes the utmost simplicity of dress, and is rigidly opposed to all dis play and extravagance. Sister Frances Claire is directress. St. Agatha's Conservatory of Music and Art, on East Exchange street, opposite the old capital, makes a specialty of studio work and in dividual instruction in those subjects and in the modern languages. This is also conducted by the Sisters of St. Joseph, and the instruction is of the best. One of the features of the school is the unusually fine collec tion of pictures. Sister Celestine is directress, and there are twenty teachers. The Cathedral school for boys, or Cretin high school, located for many years at Wabasha and Sixth streets, now at Sixth street and Maine avenue, in a fine building dedicated March 4, 1889, is a high grade insti tution, under charge of the Christian Brothers. It has an enrollment of over 500 pupils, and numbers among its graduates some of the leading professional and business men of the city. Brother E. Lewis is director and there are nine professors. Brief mention of the parochial schools has been made in connection with the various churches to which they are attached. One of the largest of the day schools is St. Agnes with an enrollment of 700 to 800, and St. Michael's follows closely with 600. These correspond to the grade schools and their pupils pass directly into the city high schools. St. Michael's is said to have the highest standard of all the schools whose pupils enter the high schools — there has never been a failure on the part of her pupils to pass the requisite examinations. Of the many Catholic schools it is impossible to speak more in detail. They are scattered all over the city, and meet the needs of all classes. Several are German schools, notable among these being St. Matthews; St. Mary's is a high school. Of these Catholic educational institutions there are at least twenty-five in St. Paul. Charitable Institutions The charitable institutions of the Catholic church in St. Paul are numerous and beneficent. Of these perhaps the most extensive is St. Joseph's Hospital, located at Exchange and Ninth streets. It was es tablished in 1853 by Bishop Cretin, on ground donated by Henry M. Rice. It now has many buildings and a full equipment. It is in charge of the Sisters of St. Joseph, with Mother Bernardine as superintendent. There are thirty-five sisters and sixty lay nurses. The patients during the year number 2,675. The House of the Good Shepherd, in charge of the Sisters of the Good Shepherd, is a correctional institution for wayward girls regard less of creed, and is doing a work of the utmost difficulty and importance. It is located on a large tract in the outskirts of the city, at Milton and La Fond streets. Mother Mary of the Holy Cross McCabe is provincial. There are fifty sisters and novices; forty-two Magdalenes and 175 in mates in charge of sisters. The St. Paul Catholic Orphan Asylum is a large establishment which admits only girls. It is located at 933 Carroll street. Mother Josephine is at the head of the institution, assisted by eleven Sisters of St. Joseph. 524 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY There are seventy orphans and twenty-two inmates of the Infant Home department. St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum (German), at Randolph street and Ham line avenue, sustains 170 orphans, boys and girls. Fourteen Sisters of St. Benedict manage its affairs, under the supervision of Sister Juliana. St. Paul's Home for the Aged Poor is at No. 90 Wilkin street, and has for many years done a work that is appreciated and assisted by citi zens of all classes and creeds. There are fifteen Little Sisters of the Poor connected with the Home, and Sister Mary is superintendent. The number of inmates averages 120. There are in St. Paul Catholic communities of men representing the Benedictine, Franciscan and Marist orders, and the Brothers of the Christian schools. The religious communities of women in the city include. Sisters of St. Joseph; Sisters of St. Benedict; School Sisters of Notre Dame; ST. JOSEPH S HOSPITAL Felician Sisters; Sisters of the Good Shepherd; Little Sisters of the Poor, and the Visitation Nuns. The city missionary is Rev. James Donahue. The editor of the Catholic Bulletin is Rev. James Reardon. The North Western Chronicle and Der Wanderer, both weekly, are officially recognized as Catholic newspapers. Calvary cemetery is at Como avenue and Front street. Among the more conspicuous of the many organizations conducted and supported by the Catholic laymen of St. Paul, under direction of the clergy, is the Society of St. Vincent de Paul, subdivided into nine con ferences, each having in charge a certain district of the city, and visiting and relieving its own poor in that locality. The Guild of Catholic Women, now consisting of over five hundred members, and systematically or ganized, has also subdivided the city for purposes of effective visiting, outdoor relief, and the general uplift of the life of the city. L'Union Francaise, of St. Paul, was founded July 22, 1867, by L, Demeules, Alfred Dufresne, L. A. Michaud, J. H. Lesage, Pierre Jerome, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 525 Isaie St. Pierre, F. Robert, P. Vitu, and David Guerin. This is a French mutual benefit association for the relief of the widows and orphans of deceased members ; they also render assistance to their members in sick ness. Other Catholic societies are: Bohemian Workmen Society of St. Joseph; German Gessellen Verein; Irish Benevolent Society, and St. Peter's Benevolent and Aid Society. The last named society, in 1875, founded the German Catholic Aid Society of Minnesota, which now has 8,500 members in 145 branches and a reserve fund of $415,000. At a recent session of the German Roman Catholic Aid Association the dele gates appropriated $25,000 for the erection of a general office building in St. Paul.' A site costing $10,000 was purchased a few months ago, and the executive committee was vested with power to enter into con tract for the erection of the building. There is also the German Catho lic State Federation (Staatsverband), organized in 1887 and embracing 175 societies with a membership of approximately 13,000; and the Ger man Catholic Federation of St. Paul comprising nineteen fraternal and other organizations in the six German Catholic congregations of this city. Both the State Federation and the G. C. Federation of St. Paul, are branch organizations of the German Roman Catholic Central Society of North America, founded in 1855. The object of the societies is, be sides giving their members the benefit of life insurance and aid in need and sickness, preservation of the German language and betterment of social and religious conditions. Of the branches of the Federation in this city we may mention: St. Clement's Society; St. Anthony Society; St. Leo Society; St. Bernard's Society; St. Matthew's Society; St. Francis de Sales Society; the different branches of the Faithful Shepherds; the German branches of the C. O. Foresters, and the St. Joseph Society, which has been instrumental in erecting the St. Joseph's German Catho lic Orphan Asylum on Randolph street. The Knights of Columbus, the Catholic Order of Foresters, and the Ancient Order of Hibernians, which recognize intimate relations with the Catholic church, are referred to in another chapter. They are active and flourishing as militant adjuncts to the expanding episcopacy. Diocese of St. Paul The Catholic diocese of St. Paul covers the counties of Ramsey, Hennepin, Washington and twenty-four other counties of Minnesota — an area of 15,233 square miles. The cathedral at St. Paul and the pro- cathedral at Minneapolis are the episcopal headquarters. Most Rev. John Ireland, D. D., is archbishop and the Right Rev. John J. Lawler, D. D., V. G., is auxiliary bishop of St. Paul, consecrated May 19, 1910. The following table gives the latest published statistics of the diocese : Archbishop 1 Students 165 Bishop 1 Colleges 1 Diocesan Priests 262 Students 67s Priests of Religious Orders 40 Commercial Schools, (Christian Total 302 Brothers) 2 Churches with resident priests. ... 188 Pupils 812 Missions with Churches 62 Total number of pupils in Paro- Total Churches 250 chial Schools 21,492 Missions without Churches 8 Boarding Schools and Academies Chapels 17 for Girls 7 Theological Seminary 1 Pupils 1,337 526 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Total number of pupils in Cath- Hospitals 3 olic Institutions of Learning Patients, during year 1908. . . 4,154 (Schools in Orphan Asylums Homes for the Aged Poor 2 included) 25,140 Inmates 331 Orphan Asylums 3 House of Good Shepherd 1 Orphans 347 Inmates 229 Catholic Population, about 260,000 The province of St. Paul, presided over by the great archbishop who has done so much to build it up, is the magnificent outgrowth of the lit tle parish, planted with tears and toil seventy-one years ago by Father Galtier, in the cabin-chapel, built of logs, which gave a name to the city, the diocese and the province. This province now includes the great states of Minnesota, South Dakota and North Dakota, with the follow ing organizations: Archdiocese of St. Paul, Minnesota — Mt. Rev. John Ireland, D. D., consecrated December 21, 1875; appointed archbishop May 15, 1888. Rt. Rev. John J. Lawler, D. D., auxiliary bishop, consecrated May 19, 1910. Diocese of Bismarck, North Dakota — Rt. Rev. Vincent Wehrle, O. S. B., D. D., consecrated May 19, 1910. Diocese of Crookston, Minnesota — Rt. Rev. Timothy Corbett, D. D., consecrated May 19, 1910. Diocese of Duluth, Minnesota — Rt. Rev. James McGlorick, D. D., consecrated December 27, 1889. Diocese of Fargo, North Dakota — Rt. Rev. James O'Reilly, D. D., consecrated May 19, 1910. Diocese of Lead, South Dakota — Rt. Rev. Joseph F. Busch, D. D., consecrated May 19, 1910. Diocese of St. Cloud, Minnesota — Rt. Rev. James Trobec, D. D., consecrated September 21, 1897. Diocese of Sioux Falls, South Dakota — Rt. Rev. Thomas O'Gorman, D. D., consecrated April 19, 1896. Diocese of Winona, Minnesota — Rt. Rev. Patrick R. Heffron, D. D., consecrated May 19, 1910. The parish has grown into a province of the church; the lonely priest has been succeeded by a hierarchy, consisting of an archbishop, nine bishops and perhaps a thousand priests. The log chapel had grown by 1857 into a stone cathedral, which, in 191 1, is soon to be superseded by the stately granite temple of worship now rising on the brow of St. Anthony hill to magnificently crown the life work of a noble prelate, and testify to the generosity of a devoted people. Latest Cathedral of St. Paul The cornerstone of this magnificent structure, the latest cathedral of St. Paul, was laid with most impressive ceremonies and in the pres ence of an immense throng of citizens, on Sunday, June 2, 1907. The grand procession consisted of 30,000 men from all parts of the state, marching under the insignia of their respective churches and societies, and endless line of flags and banners and faces, — the greatest parade, with possibly one exception, ever seen in the city. Participating in the ceremony were Archbishop Ireland and all the bishops of the province; the archbishops of Dubuque, Portland and Chicago ; bishops of Helena, Seattle, Davenport, Omaha, Lincoln, Sioux City, St. Joseph, Superior, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 527 SP^t*" ¦ -¦! fj IfAVI new cathedral, now in course of construction 528 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Nashville and Peoria — twenty-five bishops in all; 250 priests; 200 Le- vites of the St. Paul Seminary, and 500 pupils of the College of St. Thomas, in their cadet uniforms. Col. Josias R. King of St. Paul was grand marshal. The corner stone was laid by Bishop McGolrick, assisted by Very Revs. Heffron, Moynihan and Schaefer. A cablegram was read from Pope Pius X at Rome, conveying the apostolic blessing, and a telegram of congratulations from President Roosevelt at Washington. Eloquent addresses were delivered by Archbishop Ireland, Judge E. W. Bazille, Mayor Robert A. Smith, Governor John A. Johnson, Senator Moses E. Clapp, and Judge W. L. Kelly. It was a memorable occasion in the annals of the church and of the city. During five succeeding years the work of constructing this splendid edifice has gone steadily forward under the careful supervision of the accomplished architect, Eugene Louis Masqueray, of this city. Its mas sive walls, of solid, enduring granite, its stately towers and its lofty dome will stand for ages, a beacon and a landmark in the city of the future. In architectural design the cathedral of St. Paul, while entirely of the twentieth century in feeling and purpose, will at the same time embody in its composition those secondary features that gave so much charm to the old churches of the middle ages. The outside dimensions of the cathedral are as follows: Length, two hundred and seventy-four feet ; width of transepts, two hundred and fourteen ; width of main f accade, one hundred and forty ; width of dome, one hundred and twenty feet; height of faccade, one hundred and thirty feet; height of towers, one hundred and fifty feet; height of cross over the dome, two hundred and eighty feet. Under the towers are the en trances to the crypt, located beneath the front part of the church, where there will be an important chapel or lower church and two large rooms for meetings of societies and catchism classes. Between the faccade and Summit avenue the grounds, one hundred and ten feet in depth, have been treated as monumental approaches, ramps and walks having been studied with regard to easy access to the church and an artistic setting to the whole edifice. The outline of a cross, ambulatories between the main body of the church and the surrounding chapels have been retained, with all their religious symbolism. To accomplish this and at the same time create a modern structure, the relative proportions of the different elements as they appear in the ancient churches of Europe have been modified. The long and narrow nave and transepts of the mediaeval churches have been made wider and shorter. At their intersection the great dome has been placed and becomes the feature of the composition, following, in fact, the main lines of the original plan of St. Peter's in Rome, as laid out by Bramante and Michel Angelo. The long nave added later to St. Peter's by Carlo Maderna has never been considered an architectural improvement on the original scheme. The main entrance is under a monumental arch framing the apse window and through the three front entrances leading to the vestibule located under the organ gallery. At each end of the vestibule under the two towers are two chapels, one to be the founder's chapel, and the other to contain the baptismal font. The main nave is sixty feet in width and eighty-four in height, and is flanked by two large and beauti ful chapels, one consecrated to the Blessed Virgin and the other to St. Joseph. Running parallel to the nave on both sides and separated from it by imposing piers are the ambulatories, or passageways, twelve feet ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 529 in width, giving easy access to all parts of the nave and to the chapels of the Blessed Virgin and of St. Joseph. The exterior of the cathedral is a frank architectural expression of the interior and is distinguished by broad treatment of wall surfaces and dignity of proportions, the ornamented parts being grouped at points where they will be effective and will emphasize the general archi tectural design — chiefly, on the main front, the towers, the sides, the entrances and the dome. The building material used is a light gray-pink granite, full of quartz which, under the light of the sun, sparkles like precious stones. The texture being rather coarse, details have been treated broadly and simply. The architectural scheme, as a whole, in its massiveness, solidity, dignity, and beauty, is a noble incarnation of the religious spirit, ecclesiastical zeal, and historic significance, which have combined to render the erection of this cathedral church in St. Paul in the highest degree epochal, laudable, reverential. The great dome is ninety-six feet in diameter and one hundred and seventy-five feet in its interior elevation. Twenty-four large windows in the dome bring a flood of light to the sanctuary. On each side of the dome are the transepts, of the same dimensions as those of the nave, and lighted by great rose-windows similar to the one over the front entrance. At the end of the transepts are the entrances to the two great chapels of St. Peter and of St. Paul, near which secondary doors open to Selby and Dayton avenues. The sanctuary occupies the whole apse, the dimension being sixty feet in width and sixty-five feet in length. It is surrounded by marble columns supporting arches that separate it from the ambulatory, beyond which are the chapels of the nations, six in number, dedicated to the apostles of the several races from which are derived the people of the northwest. An inspection of the drawings shows that the ground plan of the in terior of the cathedral will be very open, affording from every part a clear view of the altar and of the pulpit and at the same time permitting a fine grouping of the secondary elements of the architectural composi tion, ambulatories, chapels, organ gallery, etc., and adding most pictur esque effects and a religious atmosphere to the monumental ensemble. The seating capacity is three thousand in pews, and one thousand more in removable chairs. CHAPTER XLVIII PROTESTANT RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS First Protestant Church (Methodist) — In Minnesota District, Wisconsin Conference — Jackson and Market Street Churches — Other Methodist Churches — Presbyterian Churches — Ply mouth and Other Congregational Churches — The Peoples' Church — Baptist Organizations — The Episcopalians — Lu theran Churches of the City — Swedenborgian, Unitarian and Universalist — FIebrew Congregations. In 1836, the Illinois Annual Conference of the Methodist Episcopal church, by the advice of Rev. Peter Akers, a very able preacher, after wards president of McKendree College, Illinois, and a professor of Hamline University, Minnesota, inaugurated two movements of import ance in the religious history of St. Paul and vicinity. It established a mission for the Sioux, under Rev. A. Brunson, at Kaposia, near what is now South St. Paul, later removed across the Mississippi to Red Rock, which is still retained by the Methodists for camp meeting purposes Bishop Ames of the Methodist church visited this mission in 1840. It also established, near Jacksonville, Illinois, under the charge of Peter Akers, the "Ebeneezer Manual Labor School," to educate men for prac tical work in Indian missions. Mr. Brunson was assisted by Rev. David King, Rev. Thomas W. Pope and J. Holton. Later John Johnson (En- megahbow), George Copway and Peter Markham, three young Ojib- way Indians, were sent through Mr. Brunson's efforts, from Minnesota to the school at Jacksonville for education. Two white men, Samuel Spates and Allen Huddleston, entered the school in Illinois at the same time, with the same object. These five men, on completing their education, came to Minnesota and became missionaries to the Chippewas. Johnson, for personal reasons, transferred to the Episcopal church, became one of Bishop Whipple's valued Indian colaborers and remained a faithful Christian worker for sixty-five years (almost the exact period of Peter Akers' ministry) until his death in 1902 at the age. of ninety- two years. These were the beginnings of the Methodist church near St. Paul. First Protestant Church (Methodist) In 1844 St. Paul became an appointment in the St. Croix Mission of the Wisconsin conference. Rev. Mr. Hurlbut was appointed to the mis sion, but as his field embraced all the settlements on both sides of the river from the head of Lake Pepin to St. Croix Falls, and as St. Paul was just then coming into being, it could not have received a very large 530 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 531 share of attention. Mr. Hurlbut was succeeded in 1846 by J. W. Put nam, and he in 1848 by Benjamin Close. In the meantime several Methodist families had settled here and the town itself was beginning to assume importance, and on the last day of the year 1848 a Methodist church was organized by Rev. Benj. Close. It consisted of eighteen members, and is the first Protestant church organized in St. Paul. During the ministry of the Rev. Mr. Putnam, in 1847-8, a small frame structure was erected on Jackson street, and in the spring of 1849 a quarterly meeting was held in it by Rev. Henry Summers, pre siding elder. The first quarterly conference was held by Rev. Chauncey Hobart on the 26th of the following November. For some reason this house was never finished. But during the year 1849 a small brick church was commenced on Market street fronting Rice Park which, en larged and otherwise improved, was occupied until November, 1873, when the congregation moved into a handsome building on St. Anthony street near Summit Park. The Market street church is said to have been the first Protestant house of worship erected in Minnesota. It is still standing and is now occupied by a business establishment. In Minnesota District, Wisconsin Conference In June, 185 1, the Minnesota district of the Wisconsin conference was organized, and Chauncey Hobart was appointed presiding elder, and pastor of the church in St. Paul. The next year Mr. Hobart was employed wholly on the district, which extended from Prairie du Chien to Sandy lake, a distance of some 700 miles. He was succeeded in St. Paul by Leonard Dickens, who in 185 1 was followed by Thomas M. Ful- lerton. In 1853 David Brooks was appointed presiding elder of this district. Jackson and Market Street Churches During the year 1855-6 the Jackson Street church was built on the corner of Jackson and Ninth streets, and Rev. E. J. Kinney was ap pointed its pastor. In 1857 the two churches, the First and the Jackson Street, were united into one pastoral charge, and Rev. Cyrus Brooks was appointed to the "St. Paul Station." He was assisted by Rev. Williams S. Edwards. In the spring of 1858 the church was again di vided into two charges called the Jackson Street and the Market Street churches. When the Market Street church was removed to upper Third (St. Anthony) street, the name was changed to First church, which it still retains. It was again removed in 1909 to a new and still larger building, one of the most beautiful examples of modern church architecture in the northwest, at the northwest corner of Portland avenue and Victoria street. Its membership is now over 500. Among its distinguished pas tors have been Rev. Edward Eggleston the author, in 1859 ; Rev. Samuel G. Smith, D. D., now of the People's' church, and Rev. F. O. Holman. The Jackson Street church retained its location until crowded out by business encroachments and, about 1890 the present splendid stone edifice at Minnesota and Twelfth streets was occupied. The name was then changed to "Central Park M. E. church." It has since been one of the vigorous and influential churches of the city, having now a very large membership and many subsidiary working enterprises. vol. n— e 532 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Other Methodist Churches Clinton Avenue church, at the corner of Clinton avenue and Isabel street, on the west side, was organized in 1870, and has had a very pros perous career. Its membership is 250. Grace church, on Burr street near Minnehaha, the border-land of Ar lington Hills, was organized in 1873 and has about 200 members. The First German M. E. church was organized in 1851, and consisted ii only eight members. Rev. J. Haas was the first pastor. The first house of worship was built in 1853, at the corner of Broadway and Sixth street. It was a plain frame building, 28 by 40 feet in size. The prop erty owned by the society — a frontage of 165 feet on Sixth street and of 100 feet each on Broadway and Rosabel — became in time very valu able. The next church building on Rosabel, at the corner of Sixth, was erected in i860, during the pastorate of Rev. Philip Funk. Over twenty years ago the fine new church at Olive street and Van Slyke court was built and occupied. It now has a membership of 300. The St. James African M. E. church was organized September, 1870, with six members by Thomas Wise, pastor, who received his appoint ment from the Indiana conference, held in Chicago that year. Trustees : Daniel Harding, Daniel Johnson, Alonzo Brown and Horace Carlyle. It now has a membership of 400 and is located at the corner of Fuller avenue and Jay street. Other churches of the Methodist denomination in the city are: Arlington Hills ( Swedish); 701 East Cook. Organized September 1889. Membership 200. Asbury M.' E. church; Frank, corner Ross. Organized 1885. Mem bership no. Bethlehem M. E. church (German) ; Matilda avenue, corner Law- son. Organized April 1, 1900. Membership 38. First Norwegian and Danish ; Broadway, corner Thirteenth. Member ship 200. First Swedish; Tenth, corner Temperance. Organized 1854. Mem bership no. Dayton's Bluff (German) ; Fourth, corner Maple. Organized October 1886. Membership 400. Hamline ; Capitol avenue, corner Asbury avenue. Organized Septem ber 12, 1880. Membership 660. Holman Memorial; Bates avenue, corner Euclid. Organized October 24, 1882. Membership 260. King Street; King, corner Orleans. Organized 1884. Membership 125. Olivet M. E. church ; Armstrong avenue, corner View. Organized October 1886. Rebuilt in 1909. Membership 45. St. Anthony Park M. E. church; Raymond avenue, south of Manvel. Membership 240. St. James African M. E. church; Fuller avenue, corner Jay. Organ ized May 1882. Membership 400. Trinity; Dewey, corner Carroll avenue. Organized June 17, 1886. Membership 250. Wesley chapel; Park avenue, corner Cook street. West Side German M. E. church; George, corner Bidwell. Organ ized January 1, 1885. Membership 95. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 533 Presbyterian Churches The Presbyterian church was founded in this region by the mission aries, Samuel W. Pond, Gideon H. Pond, T. S. Williamson and their associates, who arrived at Fort Snelling in 1835 and established stations for work among the Sioux Indians at Kaposia and Lake Harriet. Dr. Williamson also organized a Presbyterian church of sixteen members at the Fort. The first meeting called with a view to the formation of a Presby terian church in St. Paul, was presided over by Rev. E. D. Neill, who CENTRAL PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH had been commissioned by the American Home Missionary Society, as its missionary here, on November 26, 1849. A few days later, on Decem ber 5th the church was organized, the Rev. E. D. Neill to occupy the pulpit, and W. H. Tinker and J. W. Selby being elected elders. At the ordination, the Pioneer says: "Rev. Dr. Williamson of the Little Crow mission (Kaposia) was present, with several of the native Sioux." On May 18, 1850, the house of worship, just after its erection on the corner of Washington and Fourth streets, was consumed by fire. A new house of brick was at once commenced and was occupied (before it was fin- 534 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ished), the first time November io, 1850. This church edifice was erected on the corner of St. Peter and Third streets. It is now a business build ing. Rev. Dr. Neill continued to serve as pastor of First church until in !855, when he left it to organize House of Hope Church. Rev. J. R. Barnes then became "stated supply" of the pulpit until in August, 1856, when he was succeeded by Rev. John Mattocks, of Keyville, New York, who was the regular pastor until his death in 1875. Soon after the death of Dr. Mattocks, the Rev. N. W. Cary became pastor. He was succeeded in January, 1878, by Rev. Dr. Samuel Conn. The present pastor is Rev. E. H. Moore. Its membership is 200. In 1870 the society decided to move into the lower part of the city. The church property was sold and a new location was purchased. In 1875 the church build ing, at the corner of La Fayette avenue and Woodward, was occupied. At that time this was and seemed likely to remain a very eligible resi dence center. But soon afterward the movement toward the hill district began, and twenty years later the church sold its lower town property and removed to its present location corner of Lincoln avenue and Grotto street, which it will occupy until its consolidation with the House of Hope church, agreed on in 1912, takes effect on the completion of the new building, near at hand. The Central Presbyterian church had its origin in 1851, when the idea was first entertained of forming a society in St. Paul, in connection with what was the Old School branch of the Presbyterian church. To wards the close of the summer the Rev. J. G. Riheldaffer arrived in St. Paul, under the auspices of the Board of Domestic Missions of the Pres byterian church, O. S. Mr. Riheldaffer preached his first sermon at St. Paul, in the First Presbyterian church, by the courteous invitation of Rev. Mr. Neill, its pastor, a courtesy which was occasionally repeated until other arrangements were made. On Saturday, February 22, 1852, a little company, nine in number, met at the dwelling of the minister in a one story frame house on Sixth street, between Robert and Jackson. In that company, small as it was, two or three separate nationalities, and Scotch, German, English and American blood, were represented. Seven persons presented letters from other churches and were admitted to membership, viz : Mr. and Mrs. R. Marvin, Mr. and Mrs. G. W. Farrington, Mrs. Catherine Riheldaffer. John D. Pollock and J. Gise. The ruling elders chosen were Messrs. Farrington and Marvin and the latter was appointed stated clerk of the session. Services were held successively in the Baptist church, in the court house, at the state capital and in the schoolhouse on Jackson street. It was finally decided to build a church on lots donated for the purpose by W. FT. Randall and Louis Robert at Exchange and Cedar streets. In 1856 a handsome brick church was erected. In 1867 it was enlarged at an expense exceeding the original cost. Dr. Riheldaffer resigned in 1864 to enter educational work. Anion? his notable successors have been Rev. Dr. F. J. Brown, Rev. Wm. McKibbin and Rev. R. F. Maclaren. Rev. Harry Noble Wilson is now the pastor. Anion? those who have been rulins' elders and trustees of this church are: Richard Chute. FTon. S. J. R. McMillan. Dr. T. D. Simonton. H. F. McCormick, Tames W. Hamilton. Edward Webb, T. D. Pollock. T- M. Brack, William 'Plerriott, S. Dickev, William F. Mason. W. T. Donaldson, O. B. Turrell. R. P. Lewis, O. Curtis*, T. W. Simonton, Rev. FT. Maltbv, Dr. Tohn Steele, William K. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 535 Gaston, Washington Stees, John Campbell, W. H. Braden, Webster Smith, W. F. Davidson, B. H. Dorsey, Gen. R. W. Johnson, Gen. J. B. Sanborn, Gates A. Johnson, Judge W. Wilkin and H. S. Ogden. The House of Hope Presbyterian church was founded by Rev. Ed ward D. Neill, its first pastor, in 1855. Mr. Neill came to St. Paul in April, 1849, under instructions from the Presbytery of Galena, of which he was a member, the territory of Minnesota then being included in its limits. After preaching for seven months, he organized the First Pres byterian church of St. Paul, and for about five years remained its pastor. In November, 1855, he announced, through a circular, that the Presby terian mission, which was commenced in April 1849, and discontinued upon the organization of the First Presbyterian church, in November of the same year, would be resumed by him, and further announced that "Services will be held every Sunday afternoon at fifteen minutes after three o'clock in the lower room of the district schoolhouse on Walnut street near Fort, commencing November 25, 1855." On December 24, 1855, the church was organized with J. H. Stewart, M. D., Mrs. William L. Banning, Mrs. Henrietta Home and Mrs. Ed ward D. Neill. The church chose for its name, "The House of Hope," from that of the old Dutch redoubt, which in the seventeenth century stood upon the present site of the city of Hartford, Connecticut. Coin cident with the organization of the church was the formation of a Sun day school. It was first held in the Walnut street schoolhouse, Decem ber 10, 1855. There were seven scholars in attendance and six teachers. On the first Sabbath of the new year, 1857, the first additions to the church were made, eight communicants being received by letter. The same day, January 3rd, Wilford L. Wilson was chosen ruling elder, the first to hold that office. In January, 1857, the congregation purchased some lots and set about building a church. It was determined at first to erect a stone building, which should cost not less than $25,000, but the panic of that year forced the members to modify their desires and at last on the 12th of July, 1858, the building committee was instructed to build a frame chapel, "at the lowest ' possible figures." In the meantime services were held in Irvine Hall, corner of Third and Eagle streets. In August, 1858, work was begun on the chapel, and December 22nd following it was dedicated. The entire cost was $2,775. The building contained seventy-five pews and forty of these were rented the first day. At this time the church contained 35 members. In June, i860, Dr. Neill resigned to accept the position of chancellor of the State University and ex officio state superintendent of public in struction. In 1861 he became chaplain of the First Minnesota Volun teers and in 1863 one of President Lincoln's private secretaries. After the war he returned to St. Paul and engaged in educational work until his death in 1894. He was succeeded temporarily in the pastorate by Rev. Flenry W. Ballantine, who served three months ; Rev. William J. Erdman, who served six months; and Rev. Henry Bushnell, D. D. of Hartford, Connecticut, who was at the time residing in the state. Rev. Frederick A. Noble, D. D., in June, 1862, was installed as pastor. In November, 1866, Mr. Noble resigned and was succeeded by Rev. F. W. Flint. In May, 1870. Rev. David R. Breed was called to the pastorate, and in October was dulv installed. Mr. Breed remained in charge until 1883 when he was succeded by Rev. Robert Christie, D. D., and he by Rev. Dr. J. P. Egbert in 1892, Rev. James D. Paxton served from 1899 536 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY to 1902. The present pastor is Rev. H. C. Swearingen, D. D., and the church membership aggregate over 1,000. The church has an assistant pastor and several dependencies. On February 10, 1868, the trustees were instructed to proceed with the erection of a new church building, "to cost not less than $25,000." On January 28, 1869, the corner-stone was laid, and in December fol lowing the first public service— the Christmas anniversary of the Sunday school — was held in the basement, and the next Sunday regular service was held also in the basement. On the first Sabbath in 187 1 the whole amount of the church debt, $12,098.20, was raised by subscription. In February, 1873, the new building was completed, and on the 23rd the main room was occupied. More than three years later, or on the 20th of August, 1876, the church was dedicated. The building which is located on Fifth street, at the northwest corner of Exchange, is of Gothic architecture, built of blue limestone and is very spacious and imposing. Its spire is covered with Vermont slate, and rises to the height of 166 feet. The original cost of the site, building, and furniture was $68,660 of which sum $50,912 was actually paid in cash by the people of the church. It has since been enlarged and improved at considerable expense. The House of Hope is a cherished St. Paul institution. It has been favored with a succession of pastors of distinguished ability, and its official members have included such men as Alexander Ramsey, D. R. Noyes, W. B. Dean, H. M. Knox, Thomas Cochran, F. Weyerhauser, F. Driscoll, H. Knox Taylor, C. H. Bigelow, R. C. Jefferson and H. J. Horn. Property has been bought on Summit avenue beyond Dale street, a fine new edifice will be built thereon at once, and a plan for consolidation with the First Presbyterian church has been agreed to. The Dayton Avenue Presbyterian church dates from April 20, 1871. On that day was held a meeting of the ministers and elders of churches of the city to consider the propriety of establishing a church on St. An thony Hill; A committee consisting of D. W- Ingersoll and Richard Marvin, from the First church; General R. W. Johnson and Edward Webb, from the Central; Thomas Cochran, Jr., and Hon. S. J. R. Mc Millan, from the House of Hope; and Rev. F. W. Flint, at large, was appointed to select a site and erect a building. A lot was purchased at the corner of Dayton avenue and Mackubin street, and in the summer of 1873 a plain but substantial building was erected and dedicated July 10th. The church was regularly organized on Sunday April 19, 1874. Twenty-three members united at the organization. Rev. Dr. John Mat tocks presided. The first elders were S. J. R. McMillan, W. L. Wilson and L. A. Gilbert. The first pastor was Rev. Maurice D. Edwards, who en tered on his labors July 19, 1874, and is still the pastor. The present church building of brownstone, a model temple of worship, was built in 1886 at a cost of about $50,000. The church has had a steady growth, proportionate to the development of that portion of the city in which it is located, and the present membership is over 700 ; The remarkably long period of the devoted service of Dr. Edwards, with this church, is highly creditable alike to pastor and people. The following additional Presbyterian Churches are now in active operation in St. Paul : Arlington Hills; Case, southeast corner Edgerton street. Organized December 9, 1888. Membership 200. Bethlehem German ; Pleasant avenue and Ramsey street. Organized 1887. Membership 160. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 537 Dano-Norwegian Golgotha; 196 Thomas street. Organized August 6, 1893. Membership 138. East; Rose and Seventh streets. Organized August 28, 1884. First of South St. Paul; Fifth avenue, corner Marie Avenue. Mem bership 65. Goodrich Avenue; Goodrich avenue, east of Garfield. Organized April 6, 1884. Membership 219. Knox; Asbury avenue, corner Minnehaha street. Organized Septem ber 4, 1890. Membership 147. Macalester ; Summit corner Cambridge- avenue. Membership 135. First; Merriam Park; Iglehart, corner Moore avenue. Organized March 1884. Membership 300. Ninth; Edmund street, corner Farrington avenue. Organized 1885. Membership 122. Warre'ndale; Cross avenue, corner Oxford street. Organized June 12, 1889. Membership 42. Westminster ; Greenwood avenue and Winifred. Organized April 3, 1885. Membership no. Plymouth and Other Congregational Churches The first Congregational church in St. Paul was the Plymouth, which was organized June 17, 1858.. There were fifteen members in the organization, among whom were Rev. P. W. Nicholas, P. P. Furber, William L. Phinney and H. C. Wilson. Rev. P. W. Nichols was the first deacon of the church and continued in that position until his death in 1863. Rev. Burdett Hart, of Fair Haven, Connecticut, was called to the pastorate September 9, 1858, and served until April, 1859. He was suc ceeded by Rev. A. S. Fiske, who resigned in April, 1862, entered the Union army as chaplain of the Fourth Minnesota, and was, for many years, a leading pastor in Washington, D. C. The first church building was a chapel on Temperance street, which was dedicated November 4, 1859. The present house of worship, at the corner of Wabasha street and Summit avenue was erected in 1872. Its total cost was $33,000. Its erection was accomplished during the pastorate of Rev. C. M. Terry, who came to the church in August, 1871, and retired in August, 1877. His successor was the Rev. Dr. McG. Dana. The present pastor is Rev. .Clement C. Campbell and it has 250 members. The Park Congregational church, at Holly avenue and Mackubin street, was organized in 1883 and has had a singularly prosperous ca reer. It engages in many educational and philanthropic activities, which enlist the interest of the people of the progressive residence district in which it is located. The membership is 300 and Rev. P. P. Womer is pastor. Other Congregational churches are: Atlantic; located on Bates avenue, corner of Conway. Organized February 6, 1883. Membership 230. Bethany; corner Winifred street and Stryker avenue, West St. Paul. Membership 114. Cyril chapel; on west side of Erie, near Grace street. Dedicated in October, 1887. Olivet; Prior avenue, corner of Rondo street. Organized January 12, 1888. Membership 35. 538 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Pacific ; Acker street, between Mississippi and Buffalo streets. - Or ganized in 1882. Membership 253. St. Anthony Park; Raymond, near Wheeler street. Organized July 6, 1886. Membership 150. There are, also attached to this communion Bell Chapel, Desnoyer Park; Forest Street; Gladstone Mission; St. Paul; South Park; Tatum and University Avenue Congregational churches. The Peoples' Church The Peoples' Church, independent, but to some extent affiliated with the Congregational societies, occupies an unique and very useful position among the religious bodies of the city. This church was organized Jan uary 1, 1888. The accomplished and able founder, Rev. Samuel G. Smith, D. D., formerly of the Methodist Episcopal church, has been its pastor from the first, and has preached regularly to large and attentive audiences. Services were held for some months in the Grand Opera House on Wabasha street, until its destruction by fire in January, 1889. Then they were conducted in the large tabernacle, erected at a cost of $85,000 by the congregation, on the corner of Pleasant avenue and Chest nut streets. When this fine building was destroyed by fire, it was promptly rebuilt, greatly enlarged and tastefully decorated. Dr. Smith has a nation-wide reputation as an orator, clergyman, sociologist and philanthropist. He has had many calls to larger fields, but remains true to the city and his church. On March 7, 1912, the congregation cele brated Dr. Smith's sixtieth birthday with public exercises and a splendid reception; among those who spoke in grateful recognition. of the pastor's several religious and secular activities were Gov. A. O. Eberhart, Mayor Keller, President Cyrus Northrop and Judge O. Hallam. The con gregation numbers 3,000. Rev. L. L. D. Curtis is assistant pastor. Baptist Organizations In the little Jackson Street schoolhouse, December 30, 1840, was organized the First Baptist church of St. Paul, with twelve con stituent members as follows : Rev. John P. Parsons, Mrs. Matilda Par sons, A. H. Cavender, Mrs. Elvira Cavender, Lyman Dayton, Charles Stearns, Mrs. Cornelia Stearns, Miss Mary G. Stearns, John B. Spencer and Mrs. Nancy Spencer. This salary of the pastor, Rev. J. P. Par sons, was fixed at $600 a year, of which the church was to pay $100 and a missionary society the remainder. In 185 1 a church building on Temperance street was finished. It cost $2,500 and a heavy debt was left on it. The pastor, Rev. Parsons, met a tragic death while in the east rais ing funds. The second pastor of the church was Rev. T. R. Cressy, who was accorded a salary of $800 per annum, one-fourth of which was to be paid by the church, which had increased in numbers to twenty-three. During his pastorate of two years the membership of the church in creased to sixty, six of whom he baptized. Rev. A. M. Torbit became pastor in 1854, and was succeeded by Rev. John P. Pope, in 1857. In 1863 the stone chapel on Wacouta street was built at a cost, including the lot, of about $12,000. It was opened for service New Year's morn- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 539 ing, 1863. Mr. Pope resigned in 1866 and was succeeded by Rev. R. A. Patterson, who served until 1870. The year 1875 was made memorable by the completion of the elegant church structure, still in use, on the corner of Wacouta and Ninth streets, at a cost of $93,850.95. To this should be added $16,000, the cost of the lot ; $8,000, the contract price of the organ, and $800, the cost of the clock — the latter the gift of H. P. Upham and L. E. Reed — making a total of $118,650.95. It is not too much to say that in solidity of con struction, architectural effect and adaptation to use, it was then un equalled by any other church edifice in St. Paul. The present mem bership is 670 and Rev. Harold Pattison is pastor. The Woodland Park Baptist church was organized in 1883, and erected a building at the corner of Selby avenue and Arundel street, which it occupied for about twenty years. It then removed to a larger structure at Laurel avenue and Victoria street, which now accommodates a membership of 300. Rev. W. A. Hill is pastor. Other Baptist churches are: Burr Street; First German; First Norwegian; Danish; First Swedish; German of West St. Paul; He bron; Immanuel; Pilgrim (colored with a membership of 450); also Second Swedish. The Episcopalians Christ church, St. Paul, is the "mother parish" of the Episcopal diocese of Minnesota. It was organized in the summer of 1850 by Revs. J. L. Breck, J. V. Merrick and Timothy Wilcoxson, who arrived in the month of June of that year. The cornerstone was laid on Tues day, September 5th, by the Rev. E. G. Gear, chaplain at Fort Snelling, and the building, which stood on the corner of Cedar and Fourth street, was soon completed, being opened for services on Sunday, December 8, 1850. Its cost was $1,275. ^ was dedicated July 20, 1851, by Bishop Jackson Kemper. The second church was erected in 1871, but was destroyed by fire soon after its completion. The present church build ing at the corner of Fourth and Franklin streets, was completed and opened for service in November, 1872. Its original cost was about $20,000. It was enlarged in 1889. The first regular rector of the par ish was Rev. J. Lloyd Breck, who was chosen in April, 1852. He was succeeded in a few months by Rev. Timothy Wilcoxon, and he, in 1854, by Rev. Dr. J. C. Van Ingen. In August, 1862, Rev. Dr. S. Y. McMas- ters, a distinguished author and educator, was chosen rector and served fourteen years. . His successor was Rev. W. P. Ten Broeck, who served until October, 1880. His successor was Rev. Mahlon N. Gilbert, after wards Bishop. The present rector is Rev. Fred G. Budlong and there are 490 communicants. St. Paul's Episcopal church was organized in December, 1856. The first regular service was held in the Washington schoolhouse on the first Sunday in July, 1857. The sermon was preached by Right Rev. Alonzo Potter, then bishop of Pennsylvania. On the 14th of July following, the cornerstone of the church building at the corner of Ninth and Olive streets was laid by Bishop Kemper and the building was put in condition for worship on Christmas day of the same year. The number of com municants at that time was twenty-six. The spire was erected in i860, and the rectory in 1865. The original cost of the church building was $15,000; additions have since been made, but the property has been 540 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY recently sold and a new church will be built on upper Summit avenue. The last service in old "Saint Paul's" was held on July 28, 1912. The first rector was Rev. Andrew Bell Patterson, who served with great fidelity and efficiency for nineteen years and died "in the har ness." During his rectorship he built the church, performed 410 bap tisms, presented 178 persons for comfirmation, solemnized 146 marriages and officiated at 248 funerals. Dr. Patterson's successor was Rev. E. S. Thomas, who was installed July 1, 1876, and from the rectorship of this church was elected bishop of Kansas. The present rector is Rev. John Wright, who has served here with great efficiency and zeal, a quarter of a century. The number of communicants of St. Paul's is 250. Men of historic importance in the city and state have served as wardens and ves trymen of this church, including H. H. Sibley, Gen. N. J. T. Dana, and John L. Merriam, Harvey Officer, G. A. Hamilton, H. M. Smythe, Henry Hale, Channing Seabury and J. W. Bass. St. Paul's church has a liberal endowment fund. The notable Episcopal Church of the Good Shepherd was founded in 1867 by Rev. Wm. C. Pope, under the encouragement of Rev. Dr. S. Y. McMasters, as a city mission. The first service was held in Mackubin's block, May 26, 1867. The parish church on Twelfth street, at the northeast corner of Cedar, was dedicated October 6, 1869. At present the Church of the Good Shepherd has about 275 communicants. The rector, Rev. William C. Pope, is still in active service, beloved by his parishioners and held in universal esteem by the community for his eminent achievements in the cause of morality and religion and for his admirable qualities as a Christian citizen. The Church of St. John the Evangelist, was organized as a mission in January, 1881. Services were first held in the same month in the Dayton Avenue Presbyterian church. The chapel, at the corner of Ash land avenue and Mackubin street, was built in May,' 1881, and the parish was organized in April previously. Rev. H. Kittson was the first rector. The church edifice has been several times rebuilt and enlarged to meet increasing demands. It is now one of the leading city churches, with a membership of over 800. Other Episcopal churches are : Church of the Ascension ; Church of the Messiah; Church of the Epiphany; Saint Clement's; Saint James'; Saint Mary's; of Merriam Park; Saint Peter's; Saint Sigfried's (Swed ish) and Saint Stephen's. Lutheran Churches of the City The Lutheran churches of St. Paul are so numerous; embrace so many nationalities ; have such a large aggregate constituency ; have gone through so many interesting denominational episodes, and have con tributed so much to the material, moral and religious advancement of our people, that a large volume would be required to adequately cover their history. We can only give brief summaries of a few leading events. Trinity church, corner of Wabasha and Tilton streets, is the mother of all Evangelical Lutheran churches in St. Paul. This church dates from 1855, when Rev. F. Weir preached a series of sermons in the court house, to 18.57, when he was succeeded by Rev. C. F. Hyer. The latter held services in a schoolhouse on Fort street in the German language. He also preached occasionally in English, in a schoolhouse on Eighth street. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 541 The German members of his congregation on January i, 1858, organized themselves regularly into a church, which they called the Evangelical Lutheran Trinity church, or, in German, "die Kirche der Dreienigheit. Evangelisch Lutherisch." In February, 1858, the site was purchased for $1,000, and the erection of a church begun. At first only the base ment was completed. Mr. Hyer had been sent to St. Paul by a mis sionary society to establish a church and, having accomplished his mis sion, he was succeeded by Rev. G. Fachtmann. The church building was completed and dedicated October 18, 1863. In October, 1867, Mr. Fachtmann resigned and was succeeded by Rev. J. H. Seiker. He was succeeded, in June, 1876, by Rev. O. Spehr, and he, in March, 1879, by Rev. M. Tirmenstein. In 1871 the congregation had become so large that it was deemed best to, divide it. This was done and the organiza tion of St. John's church was effected. The present membership of Trinity is 1,000 and the pastor is Rev. Adolph C. Haase. The first religious services in the Swedish language in St. Paul were held March 25, 1854, at the house of F. Mobeck, near "Moffets Castle." The record states that on this occasion, "John Swanson read a sermon from a book." Meetings continued to be held at Mobeck's until the arrival of Rev. Erland Carlson, who, May 6, 1854, organized the society. At this time, the congregation numbered about thirty-five. In 1855, Mr. Mobeck moved to Chisago county, and Johann Johanson became leader of the church. Services were held in Martin Nelson's residence on Olmsted street. In 1861 Rev. E. Norelius was chosen pas tor, but the members were too poor to pay his salary, in a few months he left, and Johann Johanson again became leader. In 1867 the first church building, on the corner of Stillwater and Woodward avenues, was built. The present church, on the site of the former, was erected in 1883. It is of brick, 85 x 90. feet in area, and cost $25,000. The church now has over 1200 members, maintains two missions and has a large Sunday school. The pastor is Rev. Peter Peterson. St. Paul's Evangelical Lutheran church, the first Norwegian Lutheran church in St. Paul, was incorporated December 20, 1869, with about fifty members. The first pastor was Rev. O. A. Normann. The first location of the house of worship was on Mount Airy street; the pres ent is on the corner of Canada and Thirteenth streets. The church building was erected in 1882, mainly through the earnest efforts and vigorous exertions of the pastor, Rev. W. M. H. 'Peterson. There are, in 1912, a total of thirty-seven Lutheran churches in St. Paul. Services were conducted therein in the German, Swedish, Danish, Norwegian and English languages, respectively. Several of them maintain parochial schools and all of them are doing a beneficent, patriotic work among the children of foreign parentage whom they are encouraging to become upright and useful American citizens. The Lutherans have more churches in the city than any other denomination. Only the Catholics exceed them in attendance (62,000.) There are also five "Evangelical" church organizations in the city, reaching the same nationalities and performing a good work among them. Swedenborgian, Unitarian and Universalist There are but two Swedenborgian churches in Minnesota, one in Minneapolis and the other in St. Paul. Both were founded by Rev. 542 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Edward C. Mitchell. In October, 1872, Mr. Mitchell began holding evening meetings here, and on the first of June, 1873, he organized a church with twenty-one members. Services were held in the Young Men's Christian Association rooms on Third street in the evening only. In the summer of 1876 the society rented the old First Methodist church on Market street, and there the spiritual structure of the New Jerusa lem was contained. The walls were not great nor high, but the spirit ual structure was strong in the union of such members as ex-Governor William H. Marshall and wife, Edward H. Cutler and wife, John M. Gilman and wife, George T. Woodward and wife, Dr. H. Von Wedel- staedt and wife, Captain Simons and Miss Von Wadelstaedt. Work was begun on the new church, corner of Selby and Virginia avenues, in the spring of 1887, and the building was dedicated Sunday, November 6, 1887. It is an attractive structure, with its 'foundation of cobble-stones, set in cement. Rev. Edward C. Mitchell was pastor of the church from the first until his lamented death December 8, 191 1, aged seventy-five years. The membership is of a very strong character and composed of some of the best intellects of the city. Unity church represents the Unitarian denomination in St. Paul. The first service was held in a hall on Robert street in October, 1858, by Rev. F. R. Newell. After a year, meetings were discontinued, but re vived in 1865, to be soon merged with the Universalists. In 1872 Unity church began a separate and successful career in Knauft's Hall, with Rev. J. R. Effinger as pastor. The first trustees were W. L. Ames, Joseph S. Sewall, W. H. Kelley, Daniel McCaine and Edward Sawyer; the secretary and treasurer was H. P. Grant. On March 10, 1873, the society was incorporated under the state laws. In the fall of 1875, it moved into the then unused Universalist church; February 5, 1881, the articles of incorporation were revised, and the same year the church building, on Wabasha street opposite Summit avenue, was erected, full}' provided with club rooms, parlor addition, etc., which the Unitarian theory of a church home demands. Rev. J. R. Effinger, the first regular pastor, resigned, in the spring of 1876 on account of ill health. Rev. W. J. Parrott then preached for a few months. In March, 1877, Rev. W. C. Gannett took pastoral charge of the society. The present pastor is Rev. J. D. Reid and the society is domiciled in its new structure, cor ner of Portland avenue and Grotto street. Its membership is 551. St. Paul's Universalist church was formed May 7, 1865, at Inger- soll's hall. The officers were Russell Blakeley, president; Charles Leon ard, treasurer; W. H. Grant, secretary; and the other incorporators were J. C. Burbank, W. D. Washburn and G. G. Griswold. Under the con stitution the society was to be known as "The First Universalist Society of St. Paul," or as "The Church of the Messiah." In June, 1866, lots were purchased for a church site on Wabasha street near the capital. On September. 19, 1867, the plan of a church edifice was adopted, and October ist following, ground was broken for the erection of a building. The building was so far completed in January, 1869, that services were held in the basement. The building was fully completed and formally dedicated October 1, 1872. In the spring of 1881, the church edifice was sold to the French Catholics and was known as St. Louis church. Serv ices were then held in the People's theater, and in other halls, until the fine new church, corner Ashland avenue and Mackubin street, was built. Rev. T. S. Robjent is the present pastor and the membership is 200. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 543 Hebrew Congregations The first Hebrew church organized in St. Paul was the Temple Mount Zion congregation, which was formed February 26, 1857. The officers were. President, H. Cole; secretary, L. Philips. Regular meet ings were held and officers elected in 1858 and 1859, but early in i860 the meetings were discontinued. In October, 1868, the congregation was reorganized and Jacob Neuman elected president; J. Rose, secretary; A. Bloom, S. Lobenstein and A. Sternberg, trustees. In the fall of 1870 the synagogue at the corner of Tenth and Minnesota streets was erected. Some years ago a new synagogue was built at the corner of Holly ave nue and Avon street. The present membership is about 200. Rev. I. L. Rypins, an energetic and progressive man, popular in all circles, is the rabbi. The Congregation of the Sons of Jacob (B'nai Jacob) was organized March 20, 1875, with twelve members. Rev. J. Goldstein officiated and the following officers were elected: N. Blumenthal, president; A. Marks, treasurer; A. Kaufman and D. Goodman, trustees. On the 15th of August, 1879, the Jacobs House, at Minnesota and Eleventh streets, was purchased. The present temple on College avenue between Wabasha and St. Peter streets, was erected in the fall of 1888. The present rabbi is Rev. J. B. Hurwitz. There are four additional Jewish synagogues in the city. Other Religious Bodies There are three Seventh Day Adventists' churches in the city, with a total membership of 250. There are two Christian churches. Of these, the "First church," formed in 1885, has an attractive place of worship at the corner of Nelson and Farrington avenues, with a membership of 350. The First Church of Christ (Scientist) was organized in 1897, and has a large membership. There are two Spiritualist societies, one of them dating back to 1889. The Salvation Army has two vigorous societies, and there are sev eral Gospel missions. The Latter Day Saints maintain a society, with a membership of 35. Rev. A. Brinkman is elder. The Western Seaman's Friend Society established in St. Paul in 1873, what grew into the Bethel Mission. Capt. J. H. Reany was one of its early promoters and Rev. Robert Smith was its first chaplain. Under the wise management of Rev. David Morgan, it has, during the past twenty years, developed into a benevolent and philanthropic institution of incalculable value. It now occupies the large hotel building on Wa basha street, near Fourth, and has several collateral features of a chari table and industrial kind. General Observations Americans are the most liberal contributors to religion in the world. In addition to providing $12,000,000 a year for the redemption of the heathen of other lands, they give to the churches the munificent sum of $127,000,000 a year for their support and maintenance. In all these things the church-going people of St. Paul do their full share. 544 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Many of the St. Paul churches support foreign and home missions. They have from time to time sent help to the natives of many countries. Missionaries from St. Paul churches have gone into China, India, Japan and countries of South America and as far north as Alaska. For a time most of the home mission work was left to the Salvation Army, but re cently the churches have been taking up this work and now many of them maintain home missions in the poor sections. The Sunday school movement has been strong in St. Paul for many years. Nearly all of the churches have large Sunday school classes, the largest being that of the First Baptist church, which has a membership of over 2,000. St. Paul has long been regarded as the most important religious centre of the Northwest. Besides . being the headquarters of three powerful church organizations — the Roman Catholic, the Methodist and the Epis copal, it is the home of twenty-one other denominations and has churches representing almost every known faith. Of the 218 congregations the Lutherans lead in number, having 37 churches; the Catholics follow with 24 churches; next comes the Meth odists with 20; Episcopalians with 17; the Presbyterians with 17; the Congregationalists with 16; the Baptists with 14; the Jews with 7; the Evangelical association with 5; the Adventists with 2; the Chris tians with 2; the Spiritualists with 2; the Salvation Army with 2, and others with one each. CHAPTER XLIX THE CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATIONS Original Organization of the Y. M. C. A. — Civil War and City Missionary Work — First Proposed Great Building — Plans at Last Realized— The Late John B. Sleman — Young Women's Christian Association — National Campaign for Civic Better ment. Dl. D. Merrill, bookseller, publisher, public-spirited citizen and active religious worker in St. Paul for forty years, was the father of the local Young Men's Christian Association. Early in July, 1856, a calh. drawn up and circulated by Mr. Merrill, was read in the pulpits of the various churches in the city; in response to which, a meeting of those interested in the formation of an association was held in the First Presbyterian church, on the evening of July 28, 1856. The meeting was presided over by Rev. Mr. Riheldaffer, and after an address explaining the object and aims of the meeting by Rev. Mr. Torbit, pastor of the First Baptist church, a resolution that "a Young Men's Association be formed in St. Paul" was unanimously adopted, and the association was formally or ganized. "The object of this association," said its original constitution, "shall be the improvement of the spiritual, mental and social condition of young men, by such means as shall be hereinafter designated, or shall from time to time be adopted by the association." Original Organization of the Y. M. C. A. Eighteen persons placed their names upon the roll of m'embers on its first call, as follows: Rev. J. G. Riheldaffer, Rev. A. M. Torbit, L. Marvin, W. R. Brown, G. A. Couplin, A. W. Hall, D. D. Merrill, L. H. Hunt, G. W. Farrington, J. D. Pollock, T. G. Merrill, B. K. Field, L. B. Morrow, L. Kreiger, J. R. Madison, E. G. Barrows, G. C. Cochran and J. W. Taylor. The following is the roll of the first officers of the asso ciation: President, Dr. J. H. Stewart; vice president, M. T. Kinsie; corresponding secretary, John R. Madison ; treasurer, George Cochran : directors, L. B. Morrow, L. Marvin, William H. Wolffe, R. Marvin, Will iam P. Brown, D. D. Merrill, A. Levering, L. Kreiger, A. W. Hall, E. G. Barrows, S. J. R. McMillan and H. Russell. The churches repre sented in the formation of the association, were the First Baptist, the First, the Central, and the House of Hope Presbyterian, the Methodist, the German Methodist and the Episcopal. After the formative period of the association, which, owing to the financial stringency of 1857, and later, lasted for several years, the principal energies of the members were devoted to accumulating a li- 545 546 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY brary, by means of courses of lectures, etc. This library afterwards merged into that of the St. Paul Library Association, as related in another chapter, was the nucleus of the great public library of today. Civil War and City Missionary Work The period of army work in connection with the War for the Union, extended from November, 1863, t0 January, 1866. The war had been in progress for some time and the work of the Christian Commission was being extended and perfected, when on the 20th of November, 1863, the Y. M. C. A. received from the commission an appeal for assistance. At a meeting held the same evening, the association constituted itself "The Army Committee for the State of Minnesota of the United States Christian Commission," thus entering upon a work large enough to en gage fully the zeal and energy of the most active, enthusiastic Christian laborers. The sum total of $8,707.33 was expended in this work during this period, which, however, does not include the large amount of stores, books, etc., sent here from the central office of the commission, for dis tribution on the frontier and otherwise. The devotional meetings and Bible classes of the association were not neglected. A city missionary was employed in 1868, and all branches of the work received new life and strength. During the years of 1866 and 1867, the work of relief was carried on by ward committees, but its rapidly in creasing proportions imperatively demanded more time and attention than could be given by the business men who largely comprised them. At the request of the association, Rev. E. S. Chase consented to assume this charge, and performed the duties with fidelity and acceptance until called to another field of labor in September, 1869. On the ist of Janu ary, 1870, the services of E. W. Chase were secured in this field. For more than three years a pleasant and well furnished reading room, con sisting of a small library and more than forty of the best periodicals had been kept open day and evening. E. W. Chase was continued in the service of the association from 1870 to May, 1876, as secretary and city missionary. During these six years he rendered assistance to thousands, both as to their temporal and spiritual necessities. Another distinct period which dates from June 1, 1876, began with a reorganization of this excellent institution and the appointing of a gen eral secretary. A new constitution was adopted. O. C. Houghton suc ceeded Mr. Chase in the work of the association and labored therein for nearly two years as its general secretary. In the spring of 1877, new rooms were secured in the Odd Fellows' building, corner Fifth and Wa basha streets. Here the reading room was attractive, being furnished with chairs, pictures and supplied with plenty of good books, papers and magazines. The lecture room, well furnished and lighted, was used for holding the different meetings of the association. At the annual election of officers in May, 1877, Mr. Houghton was reelected general secretary. Besides maintaining four mission stations, a Bible class was held at the rooms every Sabbath afternoon for the study of the inter national lesson, having an average attendance of over forty members. Soon after the resignation of Mr. Houghton, a call was extended to E. A. Holdridge, of New York, to serve as the general secretary of the association. After due deliberation he accepted and entered upon the duties of this office in June, 1878, which position he held very acceptably until February, 1880, when he tendered his resignation. In November, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 547 1880, J. M. Lichtenberger was engaged by the association to serve as its acting general secretary. Among the prominent laymen who served as presidents of the Y. M. C. A. in its earlier days were Dr. J. H. Stewart, D. W. Ingersoll, George W. Prescott, H. K Taylor, J. H. Randall, Prof. S. S. Taylor, Horace Thompson, D. R. Noyes, Thomas Cochran, C. B. Newcomb, T. A. Ab bott, C. W. Hackett, L. A. Gilbert, A. E. Clark and John E. Miller. First Proposed Great Building During the prosperous decade from 1880 to 1890, the Young Men's Christian Association was in a flourishing condition and had a large membership. The rooms of the association were well supplied with lit erature and amusements for the young, men. Evening classes of different kinds and a finely equipped gymnasium received a liberal patronage. Entertainments, lectures, and socials were given at regular intervals. The association purchased a valuable property 150 by 150 feet, corner Tenth and Minnesota streets opposite the high school building, on which they planned to erect a building complete in all of its appointments for Y. M. C. A. uses, at a cost of upwards of $100,000. The corner-stone of the proposed building was laid with much ceremony on October 24, 1889, in the presence of the "Pan-American" delegates, who were in St. Paul on that date, on their famous tour of the United States, and took a deep interest in the building. A very significant feature of this ceremony was an address by Senator Nicanor Bolet Peraza of Venezuela, who said : "It is a circumstance to be noted that the warmth of greeting and heartfelt interest of the Amer ican people towards the representatives of the southern countries in creases as we come westward. In the New England states we were received as cherished guests. In New York and Michigan they treated us as friends. In Illinois, Wisconsin and Minnesota we have |been re ceived as brothers. You have not been content simply to treat us with hospitality ; you have gone farther than that, and now admit us as parti cipants in events which are to become historical. You invite us to take part in a ceremony which will be remembered for years to come. I hope you will tell future generations of the men from the south countries who came here; who spoke a language you could not understand, but whose intense gratification you could discern in their smiling faces and flash ing black eyes. Bring your children to this spot and tell them that one of these foreign brothers put his hand upon this stone, and in the name of the three Americas, invoked blessings upon this enterprise and wished a God-speed for all these generous people." But another period of general business depression intervened, and the aspirations of the Y. M. C. A. for a fit and permanent home were deferred for nearly twenty years. The well planned and beautiful struc ture proposed for Tenth street was never built. The excavation, the foundation and corner stone, remained, for many months, a mute re minder of hope deferred. The property was finally sold to a business firm and the association's building, when constructed, occupied another site. Plans at Last Realized At the corner of Ninth and Cedar streets, there was erected, five vears ago, the stately edifice, which has since served as the headquarters vol. n— 7 548 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY for the numerous benevolent, educational and evangelistic functions of the local Young Men's Christian Association, and has been one of the architectural attractions of the city. Six stories in height, 200 feet long and 90 feet wide, built of handsome brick and stone, with fire-proof interior construction and with all necessary equipments and conven iences at a cost of $370,000, given by 10,000 subscribers living in the city. This building gave to St. Paul, for the first time, a proper domicile for one of its cherished institutions. It is concededly one of the finest of the Association homes which the generous rivalries between enterprising American cities have caused to be erected wthin the past decade. Bountiful in its provisions and recent in its construction, the mag nificent new building of the Young Men's Christian Association, like so many other structures in this expanding city, already demands enlarge ment. The last annual report of the general secretary urgently calls for the addition of two stories. This would provide 150 more bedrooms and NEW Y. M. C. A. BUILDING would add from 400 to 500 members annually to the association. The night-school classes, occupying one side of the second floor, would be moved to the basement now occupied by the boys' department, and the latter should be in.. a building of its own. The second floor space thus vacated could be thrown into one large recreation department. "To ac complish all this will require about $150,000," said the secretary. "The St. Paul association would then own an equipment costing $500,000, which would place it on a par with other cities of like size and import ance." With reference to the current work, this report adds : "In some re spects, the last year has been the most satisfactory since the association was reorganized at the time of my coming, thirteen years ago. The gymnasium, swimming pool, dormitories, restaurant and the Turkish baths have all enjoyed their largest patronage during this last year. In the reli gious work department, the shop meetings and the Bible classes have both increased in numbers and efficiency. The total enrollment in the educational department slightly exceeded last year, although some of the ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 549 classes have not been so well attended. On account of limited space, the emphasis in our boys' work this year has been successfully placed on im proving the efficiency of the department rather than upon increasing its numbers. Our 138 dormitories have housed nearly 900 different men during the twelve months, and a much larger number, seeking our shel ter, could not be accommodated." The officers for 1912 are: A. B. Driscoll, president; G. P. Lyman and F. R. Bigelow, vice presidents; W. A.' Scott, general secretary. There is a large office and building staff, with the general secretary as the administrative head. Some comprehension of the present importance of the St. Paul Y. M. C. A. and of its numerous useful activities may be gained from the following report of a year's work: The total membership , 1,900 Number of different men using gymnasium, swim ming pool and baths 1,432 Total attendance in gymnasium classes 20,034 Total attendance in gymnasium and baths 52,782 Total number taught to swim 206 Total medical and physical examinations given 902 Total attendance at swimming pool 34,800 Total attendance at shower baths 38,400 The average number of baths per week I,3I5 Subjects taught in night school 28 Attendance in night school (different men) 349 Daily attendance in reading room 200 Total attendance at religious meetings in the build ings 23,000 Total attendance at religious meetings outside of buildings 16,480 Different men living in 138 bed rooms 842 Total social events given 65 Young men directed to boarding houses 200 Thousands of young men were counseled with and advised by the sec retaries, and several hundreds were helped to secure situations. To the Summer Camp on Lake St. Croix, boys go in relays of thirty-six each, for two weeks. Here they can fish, swim, row, roam the woods, etc., all un der upbuilding influences, at a nominal expense. The Association never proselytes; every member's personal religious belief is respected. The Late John B. Sleman ' Few persons outside the circle of those active in association work fully appreciate the rapidity with which its usefulness is expanding. In the death of John B. Sleman, Jr., of Washington, D. C, in July, 191 1, the Christian forces of the country lost a leader of great value. In the prime of life and devoted from his youth to good works, his early death seems to have been the result of his consuming zeal and constant labor, even to the extent of exhaustion, for his fellow-men. A memorial ser vice in his honor at the national capital was attended and addressed by men of the highest rank in the country's service — an unprecedented dis- 550 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY tinction for a young man of thirty-six, who had never held a civic or military office. Born in Washington in 1874, Mr. Sleman entered the service of the Union Savings Bank there when it opened its doors in 1891, and was thereafter continuously an officer or director in that institution. In 1898 he became general secretary of the Washington Y. M. C. A., and in eighteen months raised its membership from 164 to nearly 2,000, giving it an impetus that is still carrying it forward. Later he was for several years a member of the Washington Y. M. C. A. board of managers, the organizer of its club for foreign extension work, a vice president of the National Y. M. C. A. and chairman of its boys' department. In the civic life of Washington he took an eager and active part. Most far-reaching of all his enthusiasms was his vision of a Lay men's Missionary movement. It was his idea that this movement would help to neutralize the influence of our so-called western civilization upon the non-Christian world. Unless this is done the men that are going to the non-Christian world in diplomatic, commercial, industrial and social engagements will undo with one hand what the missionaries, with devo tion and sacrifice, are trying to do with the other hand. In other words, we have been sending out two great streams of influence — one has largely been due to un-Christian impact, the other by purely Christian impact. These must no longer fight against each other. Laymen are spreading the former over the world ; they only can carry the Christian impact. He was, in this, the originator of an idea that has, in the past four years, profoundly influenced the spiritual life of the whole country and grows with each season in its beneficience. The Student Volunteers were in convention at Nashville in 1906, when Mr. Sleman, speaking as a business man, presented his vision of the application of business methods to the spread of the Christian faith in foreign lands. A few months later the centenary celebration in New York of the Haystack meeting, out of which grew the American Board, gave occasion for the formal adoption of Mr. Sleman's plan and the organization of the Laymen's movement. That movement has outgrown the need of any individual, but it will never forget to honor the memory of John^ B. Sleman. The Young Women's Christian Association, of which the St^Paul branch is only four years old, has shown great capacity for growth and enthusiasm. After a whirlwind campaign, it raised a building fund and proceeded to the erection of a splendid home on the site generously don ated by D. S. B. Johnston, located on Fifth street opposite the Audito rium — a building which ranks among the important structures of the city and among the best of this assocation's homes in any city. Young Women's Christian Association The Young Women's Christian Association of St. Paul is part of a world-wide organization having for its object the fourfold development of young women. The motto of the national organization is : "I am come that they might have life and that they might have it more abund antly." It is this abundant life, physical, mental, social, and, above all, spiritual, which the association seeks to bring to each one of its mem bers. To this end it makes use of every point of contact and seeks to supply so far as possible every legitimate need of the young women who come within the circle of its influence. The association is under the management of a board of directors consisting of twenty-one women, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 551 who meet each month for the consideration of all association interests. Under their direction committees are organized which take the various departments of work more in detail. As the work of the association extends, there is more and more for the volunteer worker in St. Paul to do. One of the chief advantages of the association is that it is open seven days in the week, so that young women may always be sure of attention whenever they need the privileges of this organization. In order that there may be the regularity of method necessary to attain this end, there must be, in addition to the volunteer workers, a corps of regularly employed salaried officials, chosen with a view to their special adaptability and training for the particular part of the work which they assume. They serve not only as the executive of the board and commit tees, but are in a position to be the personal friends and advisers of young women and girls. All women of good moral character are entitled to membership in the association. The regular fee is one dollar a year and carries with it all the ordinary privileges of membership outside of classes which re quire special tuition fees. Those who are financially able to do so are given the privilege of helping to support the association by the payment of five dollars a year. It is the ambition of the membership committee to enroll 1,000 sustaining members and a corresponding number of regular members the coming year. A membership of 5,000 is the goal. The association is not a charity. The members pay for what they receive. The receipts from the cafeteria, the tuition for educational classes and for the gymnasium and the membership fees, constitute the chief sources of internal revenue. But as no college is self-supporting, although the students consider themselves by no means objects of charity, so the Young Women's Christian Association calls upon the public for a portion of its budget. The association has already the foundation of a good library. These books may be taken out on library cards similar to those used in the Public Library. A substation of the Public Library is also main tained at the association and books are issued on Public Library cards. About twenty-five of the leading periodicals are to be found on the read ing table. The library in the new building is situated on the second floor, and will be kept quiet for the use of those who wish to read or write. The building, erected in 191 1, cost $200,000, exclusive of the valuable site in the business district, donated by Mr. Johnston. The administra tive ability of the women who planned the structure and its equipment is shown by the fact that in addition to its attractive exterior, there is in every detail a practical, working arrangement, from the juvenile rooms in the basement to the Hannah Stanton Johnson home, for the accom modation of young women who must reside in the building. The taste fully arranged furniture in the parlors and the quiet decorations in all of the rooms impress the visitor with the good taste and excellent judg ment which mapped out the details. The furniture and equipments are all St. Paul products. Plan of Y. W. C. A. Building In the basement is the juvenile department, a large well-lighted and well-ventilated room extending half the length of the building on the Fifth street side. Here the children's classes are held and every con- 552 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY venience, including an open court, is anticipated. The juvenile depart ment includes the large assembly room, class rooms and the kitchenette. On the east end of the basement is the employment office, in charge of an employment secretary. Ample space is provided here for girls seeking positions, both in business houses and in private families. The laundry also is situated in the basement. This is a large room equipped with all of the latest appliances for modern laundering. In the rear of the basement directly under the gymnasium are the shower baths, lockers and dressing rooms of those using the gym above. The arrangements for these accessories for physical culture are unsurpassed in the country in a building of its kind. The baths are reached by a spiral staircase leading to the gymnasium on the main floor. As one enters the building from Fifth street the suite of three offices for the use of the general secretary, the financial secretary and board of directors are to the right ; to the left are the public parlors. These par lors show the taste and thought of those in charge of the arrangements. There are four rooms where the young women wishing to entertain com pany may do so with all the privacy of the modern home. The furniture is of the best mahogany, with tapestries and rugs to match. Passing through the lobby one comes to the gymnasium on the left and the auditorium on the right. It is said that no department is more popular than the "gym." This is a feature of the plan of the building upon which much thought was given, for it is conceded that many weary girls are allowed the true relaxation which their bodily health requires, under no other conditions. Every piece of apparatus necessary for exer cise, from the flying rings to Indian clubs, is among the equipment. Ad joining this and separated by a glass partition is the physical director's office. Also opening from the gymnasium is a rest room especially for the use of the department. Going across the hall one finds the entrance to the auditorium, known as the association hall, which has a seating capacity of five hundred. This hall is finished in white and is one of the finest in the country. All of the entertainments will be held in this hall, and the recessed porches near the entrance may be used for outside tea parties during the summer months. On the' second floor is the library, clubroom, another parlor and the chapel. The last is indeed a place for spiritual rest, with its dim lights surrounded by subdued coloring of the walls and situated in the heart of the building. Opening from the lobby of the second floor is the logia or porch, which is entered through the high French windows, giving the entire arrangement an air of completion. The library is delightfully arranged for quiet reading. On the third floor the front of the building is used mostly for the class rooms. These rooms are arranged for the regular classes in ele mentary subjects, art and general instruction. Another room is devoted to mission study. All of the class rooms are arranged with the simplicity characteristic of the entire building. On this floor in the rear of the building is the entrance to the Hannah Stanton. Johnson boarding home. This home is in charge of the house secretary. It covers three floors, and each of the fifty-seven rooms is an "outside" room, furnishing plenty of natural light and air. Most of the rooms are arranged for a single occupant and are tastefully furnished. An important feature of the home is the dormitory, which contains nine cots, where young women' forced to economize may be accommodated. The fourth floor of the building proper includes the domestic science ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 553 department. In this department the large class room is equipped with individual gas plates and cooking utensils for the use of the class. Ad joining this is the small model kitchen, equipped with the gas range, kitchen cabinet and refrigerator ; next to this is the model pantry, and the last room of the suite is the model dining room. Each member of the class receives instruction beginning with cooking on the gas plate and ending with "how to serve and set a table." On the opposite side of the hall from the domestic science department is the dressmaking department, also a large airy room, and at the east end of the corridor is the millinery class room. The association offers a variety of educational classes for foreign-speaking young women, for young women whose early oppor tunities in the common branches have been limited, and for those who wish to take cultural studies. Provision will also be made for those who wish to equip themselves for better positions in the business world. Valu able training for the eye and the hand may be obtained in the various industrial classes. There is scarcely any limit to the possibilities of the department, as classes will be formed in any subject for which there is sufficient demand. The cafeteria on the fifth floor is located in the choicest portion of the building. In this dining room 150 people can be comfortably seated. It has large windows on each side, affording plenty of light and an excel lent view of the river bluffs on the east and the hill district on the west. It is reached by means of an elevator, and the kitchen is a model of equipment, with its electric bread mixers and other arrangements. Every thing served is "homemade," and the opportunity offered the girls to secure home cooking, as well as neatly served food, is highly appreciated. Back of the large dining room is a small private dining room in which a girl may entertain a small party at dinner and have everything provided as comfortably as in her own home. The china is of the best and nothing has been left unprovided for the comfort and well being of the girls. Perhaps no building has provided more extensively for purely social life. The association has realized keenly from the very beginning the social need among hundreds of young women who have come to St. Paul as utter strangers, and who have no place, many of them, to entertain friends outside of a small bedroom. The building is admirably arranged for every phase of social life, and for all its other useful purposes. We have been thus specific in describing its features because its transcendent importance in the social and religious development of the city entitles it to permanent record as a- long step forward in our municipal history. The fundamental purpose of the association is spiritual and trans formation of character is the ultimate aim of every department. One of the distinctly religious features in the past has been the vesper service held each Sunday afternoon, when practical messages, helpful in every day Christian life, have been presented. A committee of young women have visited the Union depot each Sunday to invite travelers to these meetings and many words of appreciation have been expressed by strangers. The Thursday noon meeting, which has been held each week. in the living room, has been an encouraging feature of the work. Prac tical talks, not always along strictly religious lines but always striking the spiritual note, have proven most helpful. The chapel on the second floor has been fitted in ecclestiastical style and will be devoted exclusively to meetings of this kind. Four classes in Bible study, arranged to form a four years' course, have been held at the same hour immediately follow ing a class supper. 554 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY The Boating, Tennis, Riding, Philothean, Geneva and South Ameri can clubs, which have been so successfully carried on in the past, will be continued, and doubtless many other clubs will be formed as, the membership increases. For the past year the association has had the services of a Travelers' aid secretary at the Union depot. She has been able to give valuable assistance to hundreds of women and girls. Women traveling with children have been assisted ; girls have been met at the train in many instances guarded from evil agencies; temporary and permanent boarding places have been secured through the instrumentality of this department. An employment agency, a boarding house directory, an information bureau and other useful adjuncts, are maintained. In a word, the sphere of activities is almost unlimited. The West End branch has been organized for the colored women and girls of St. Paul. The branch has enrolled more than one hundred members, and the privileges offered have been much appreciated. Rooms on University avenue have been occupied during the last two years. A house at 633 Central avenue has been secured for the work. Classes have been held in Bible, mission study, ceoking, sewing, millinery, physical training and music, and have been taught by the secretaries of the Central Association. The following are the officers of the Young Women's Christian Asso ciation of St. Paul: President, Mrs. Charles P. Noyes; first vice presi dent, Mrs. C. M. Power; second vice president, Mrs. Benjamin Longley; treasurer, Mrs. C. E. Riggs; recording secretary, Mrs. Joseph Stronge; general secretary, Miss Lillian Truesdell; associate secretary, Miss Ger trude Sly ; financial secretary, Miss Gertrude I. Williams ; religious work director, Miss Ruth E. McComb; house secretary, Mrs. Allie H. Fitz. National Campaign for Civic Betterment The functions of the Young Men's and the Young Women's Chris tian associations in the new and important nation-wide campaign for civic betterment, are better appreciated every year. In his "Holy War" Bunyan likens the soul of man to a city which he calls "Mansoul," the gates to which are the five senses — Eargate, Nosegate, Mouthgate, etc. In the siege of this city the efforts of attackers and defenders alike are concentrated upon1 these gates, and it is through failure to guard them all properly that the besiegers win entrance, coming as insidiously as the titled foreign degenerate who lays his rank, his heart and his contagions at the feet of the American dowerette. What Bunyan saw so clearly more than two centuries ago in regard to the danger-points in the defenses of a man's soul, our municipal, state and national governments are just beginning to realize in regard to man's body, which, if neglected, imperils his soul. Hence the belated efforts to protect Nosegate, Mouthgate and the others from the attacks of the enemies of life, health and happiness. It was Eyegate that first attracted attention. Some one made the dis covery that people of taste and refinement did not live by choice in cities that were ugly and unattractive, and the city beautiful campaign was launched. Later the warfare against the assailants of Nosegate and Mouthgate was taken up by commercial bodies, women's clubs and other organized instrumentalities for concentrating aroused public opinion. But none of these instrumentalities has been more effective in conducting a well-rounded propaganda of policies and principles that lead to a general and permanent uplift of the community, than the two praise worthy institutions which are described in this chapter. CHAPTER L THE GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC Organization and Objects — Acker Post — Its Average Charter Member — Distinguished Members — Commanders of Depart ments — Auxiliaries — Outside Work — Exultation for the Future. Most imposing in character, comprehensive in principles, and numer ous in membership of all the societies which grew out of the comradeship of the survivors of the Union army after the great war is the Grand Army vi the Republic. It has survived all vicissitudes, — the indifference of friends, the opposition of foes, the assaults of time, — and still com mands the devotion of its members as well as the respect of the com munity. Organization and Objects The Grand Army of the Republic was organized April 6, 1866, in Decatur, the county seat of Macon county, Illinois. Its originator was Dr. Benjamin F. Stephenson, a physician of Springfield, Illinois, who had served during the war as surgeon of the Fourteenth Illinois Infantry. The objects of the order cannot be better stated than those given in the Rules and Regulations: 1. To preserve and strengthen those kind and fraternal feelings which bind together the soldiers, sailors and marines who united to suppress the late Rebellion, and to perpetuate the memory and history of the dead. 2. To assist such former comrades in arms as need help and protec tion, and to extend needful aid to the widows and orphans of those who have fallen. 3. To maintain true allegiance to the United States of America, based upon a paramount respect for, and fidelity to its constitution and laws. The first provisional department in Minnesota was organized in the governor's room at the capitol in St. Paul, on the evening of August 1, 1866 — less than a month after the organization of the first department of the order and a little less than four months after the order itself was instituted. General W. R. Marshall, who was then governor, in vited a number of ex-soldiers to meet at his office in the capitol to con sider the expediency of starting the order in Minnesota. In response to that invitation the following persons attended and were duly mus tered in by Colonel Snyder of Illinois, who was present, clothed with the necessary authority: Gen. John B. Sanborn, Gen. William R. Marshall, Gen. Horatio 555 556 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY P. Van Cleve, Col. Ross Wilkinson, Lieut. Col. Henry C- Rogers, Maj. John Moulton, Maj. Hening von Minden, Maj., John P. Owens, Capt. £. Y. Shelley, Capt. Miles Hollister, Capt. Emil Munch, A. P. Connolly, Surgeon Jacob H. Stewart, Brewer Mattocks, Sergt. Edward Richards and M. R. Merrill. The following officers were elected: Grand commander, Gen. John B. Sanborn; adjutant general, Capt. E. Y. Shelley; assistant adjutant general, Lieut. A. P. Connolly. Acker Post This organization flourished vigorously for a time, but owing to the absence of General Sanborn from the state for a considerable' period, fell into a comatose condition, and many of the posts disbanded includ ing that at St. Paul. It was not until April, 1870, that, on the initiative of Henry A. Castle and Hiram A. Kimball, measures were taken which resulted in Acker Post, which is still full of. life and vigor after a con tinuous existence of over forty-two years. Pursuant to invitation there assembled on the evening of April 8, 1870, at the law office of Kimball & Davidson, twenty ex-Union soldiers who had agreed to become members of the proposed post. Fifteen other eligibles, who were unable for various reasons to attend the first meeting, was subsequently mustered in and became charter members. The orig inal "muster in" was conducted under ' orders from department head quarters by Comrade H. G. Hicks of Minneapolis, a past department commander. The following are the names of the charter members of Acker Post: Henry A. Castle, Hiram A. Kimball, Mark D. Flower, T. S. White, A. R. McGill, W. H. Dixon, J. Sanford Dixon, James H. Davidson, Wil liam Penner, E. H. Judson, D. Kennedy, J. P. Leitner, Henry T. Johns, Homer C. Eller, J. B. Chaney, George T. Browning, William H. Brown, John Smith, J. A. Roby, E. H. Wood, Dr. J. H. Murphy, B. Brack, J. C. Becht, F. G. Brown, George M. Brack, H. W. Busse, J. B. Ashel- man, A. P. Connolly, James H. Donaldson, R. A. Lanpher, W. S. Peck, O. W. Sears, Dr. J. H. Stewart, John Way and Wilford C. Wilson. Of these charter members only the following are known to be still living: Davidson, Castle, Connolly, Lanpher, B. Brack and Way. The organization of the post was perfected by the election of Henry A. Castle, post commander ; Hiram A. Kimball, S. V. C. ; T. S. White, J. V. C; A. R. McGill, quartermaster; M. D. Flower, adjutant; J. H. Murphy, surgeon; W. H. Dixon, officer of the day; J. P. Leitner, offi cer of the guard. At the second meeting it was unanimously decided to adopt the name of Acker Post in honor of the memory of Captain W. H. Acker, orig inally of the First Minnesota Volunteers and later of the Sixteenth United States Infantry, an honored young soldier from St. Paul, who was killed in the battle of Shiloh, in April, 1862. The post thus launched on its existence devoted its first energies to the celebration of Memorial Day on the thirtieth of May following. This was done with a zeal and enthusiasm that commanded the univer sal approval of the community, and brought about one of the largest demonstrations that had, up to that time, ever taken place in St. Paul. The parade was most brilliant, embracing manv. military and civic so cieties, the fire department, etc. Gen. H. H. Sibley was chief marshal ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 557 and the division commanders were Generals Willis A. Gorman and John T. Averill, Col. C. S. Uline and Major J. H. Donaldson. At Oakland Cemetery the post commander presided and addresses were delivered by the post commander and by Col. E. A. Calkins, Capt. Cushman K. Davis and Ex-Gov. William R. Marshall. Services were also held in the Lutheran and Catholic cemeteries. Those at the latter were in charge of Comrade Rev. John Ireland, who from the beginning manifested deep interest in the welfare of Acker Post and in the conduct of all its.patriotic observances. He afterwards became a member of the post. From this time on, for seven or eight years, Acker Post maintained a vigorous and successful existence. It was the only Grand Army soldiers monument organization in St. Paul, grew to a membership of perhaps two hun dred comrades, embracing many of the leading men in the city and it engaged in numerous enterprises for the public good. Remembering its cardinal principles — fraternity, charity, loyalty — - it embraced all these within the sphere of its activities. A large majority of its membership consisted of soldiers who had served from other states and were now residents of Minnesota. These it merged into a homogeneous body, creating ties of friendship and business interest which lasted through life. By various public entertainments, including the successful presenta tion of four highly interesting and instructive military dramas, the post raised a substantial relief fund, aggregating more than $2,000, which was carefully disbursed by its committees for the relief of stranded ex-sol- 558 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY diers passing through the city, and of the widows and orphans of those who had fallen during the war, or who had died thereafter. It is a significant fact, and one highly creditable to the energy and industry of the members of the post, that for at least seven years not a single application for relief came from .any of the members; all the disburse ments were made for the benefit of those outside of the organization. All the post comrades were, at least, self-supporting. About three years after the post was formed, occurred the grass hopper visitation on the Minnesota frontier which had been largely settled by discharged soldiers. Great destitution prevailed among these comrades and the energies of Acker Post were taxed to the utmost during the following winter seasons in gathering and forwarding sup plies of clothing, etc., which enabled these afflicted homesteaders to re tain their claims, and carried them through to the period of prosperity, which thereafter came to them. During this period also, the post was extremely active in organizing and assisting the Minnesota State Soldiers' Orphans' Home, at Winona, advancing considerable sums of money for its support in emergencies and helping in every way to promote this noble charity which, during a period of twelve years, furnished support and education for about three hundred orphaned chidren of men who had given their lives to their country, dur ing the War of the Rebellion. On February 20, 1873, Acker Post was duly incorporated under the statutes of the State of Minnesota and thus became a legal body qualified to make contracts, hold property and perform other corporate functions. From 1878 to 1881, a period ensued during which the post lapsed into a comatose condition, owing partly to the fact that its principal object seemed to have been largely attained and partly to the intense preoccupation in their private affairs of several of those who had given much time to build ing up and maintaining its interest. The old name and number were re tained, however ; occasional meetings were held, and the per capita tax was regularly paid by the post to department headquarters. When the period of resurrection came, a new charter was accepted under protest, but the .post always, insisted that its existence had been continuous, and that con tention was officially ratified by the acknowledgement of its past command ers by the department authorities, and its full recognition as an existing body from the date of its original charter. After 1881 the growth and prosperity of the post were continuous for more than twenty years, until like other organizations of veterans, it reached a high tide in its membership after the beginning of the twentieth century. But at no time has it maintained a higher position or made a more honorable record than during the first six or seven years of its ex istence, when its work, as a somewhat direct result of the recent war, was more spectacular than at a later date. During the entire forty-two years, Acker Post has, on each successive Memorial Day, conducted, either alone or in cooperation with sister posts, the tender observance of strewing the graves of departed comrades with the flowers of springtime in memory of their heroic services. Nearly one thousand graves of ex-soldiers in our different cemeteries are thus honored every year. As a post it has also conducted or participated in many celebrations of Independence Day and other national holidays. It has moreover borne a part in innumerable civic observances of interest to the city, thus testifying to its public spirit and devotion to the common weal. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 559 Its Average Charter Member Going back to the beginning of Acker Post, it may be said of its aver age member : He was about twenty-eight years old. He was just entering active business or professional life, but had al ready passed through three momentous decades of his country's history. The decade from 1841 to 1850 had been the boyhood era of the coming Union soldier. The decade from 185 1 to i860 had been the era of prepa ration. That from 1861 to 1870 had been the era of achievement and re adjustment — first, four years of war and wounds and peril ; then six years of education or business and professional training, taking up the suspended threads of opportunity, and getting established for his life work. He was a clerk, a bookkeeper, a junior partner, a young lawyer, waiting for clients, or perhaps a traveling salesman ; he was fairly merged again into the ranks of productive citizenship. He had been a better soldier for hav ing been a citizen and he was now a better citizen for having been a soldier. He had gone through rare and radiant experiences, but how much he had yet to see and to learn! He had helped to make history, but how much more he was destined to make and observe ! He was wise to the marvels of a splendid civilization, but he had never seen or heard of an electric light, a telephone, a phonograph, a perfecting press, a typesetting machine, a self-binding reaper, a typewriter, an automobile, a fountain pen, an aeroplane, a wireless telegram, a special delivery stamp, a grape fruit, a hobble skirt or a merry widow hat. Microbes, meningitis, and the vermiform appendix were undreamed of, though doubtless existent — measles, small-pox and graybacks had been sufficiently aggressive during the war period. The song of the musical mule yet charmed his memories ; the odor of bacon broiling on a ramrod was still an appetizing reminis cence. Ulysses S. Grant was president of the United States; Horace Austin was governor of Minnesota ; Alexander Ramsey and Daniel S. Norton were our senators ; Morton S. Wilkinson and Eugene M. Wilson were the state's only representatives in congress. Robert A. Smith had not yet commenced serving as mayor of St. Paul — it was a long time ago. Louis Napoleon was emperor of France; Theodore Roosevelt and William H. Taft were boys in knickerbockers ; the average Spanish war veteran of today was yet unborn. Men were then living who had been cradled in the storms of the Revolution; soldiers of the War of 1812 still numerously abounded ; the Mexican war was recent history ; the aboli tion of human slavery was scarcely yet recognized as an accomplished fact — echoes of the snap of the lash and the hiss of the branding iron still lingered in the air. The commanders of Acker Post, from the date of its organization to the present have been the following : Henry A. Castle, Mark D. Flower, George T. Browning, Zene C. Bohrer, True S. White, Jacob Meese, Wil- ford C Wilson, Toseph J. McCardy, W. H. Brown, Walter T. Burr, W. H H Taylor, Edward Simonton, Roswell V. Pratt, William J. Sleppv, Charles D. Parker, I. H. B. Beebee, C. J. Stees, J. B. Chaney, E'. C. Starkey, T. W. Forbes, M. K. Williams, George R. Lewis, R. A. Becker, Patrick Henry, George N. Lanphere, Frank B. Doran, A. M. Bartlett, R. H. L. Jewett, Gideon S. Ives, John P. Larkin, Sidney Smith, Isaac L. 560 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Mahan, J. L. Brigham, Frank D. Garrity, E. S. Chittenden, John W. Cramsie, James H. Davidson and W. W. Hall. The total number of names enrolled on the books of Acker Post is about six hundred. These names represent honorably discharged ex- soldiers from every loyal state and from every branch of military serv ice — cavalry, infantry, and artillery; regulars and volunteers; white and colored; old and young. Men of all ranks, from private to major gen eral, have signed this roll and in the broad democracy of their comrade ship all stood on a plane of absolute equality. But, as the best soldier in the army was always proudest of his commanders, so the average membership of Acker Post rejoices in the fact that on that roll are found inscribed the signatures of officers who held high positions in the war time and of ex-soldiers who have been recognized by their fellow-citizens in all avenues of public activity, as worthy to be trusted with the honors and responsibilities of public office. Distinguished Members Collecting from this roll some conspicuous examples of those who have been thus promoted or have been distinguished during their mili tary and civil careers, and in professional or business life, since the close of the war, the following illustrations of the principle referred to are submitted : Governors of Minnesota: Sibley, Marshall, Davis, Hubbard and McGill. United States Senator: C. K. Davis. Representatives in congress: John T. Averill, J. H. Stewart and A. R. Kiefer. Mayors of St. Paul : A. R. Kiefer and F. B. Doran. Sheriffs of Ramsey county : J. C. Becht and Charles Chapel. Postmasters of St. Paul : J. H. Stewart, H. A. Castle, A. R. McGill and M. D. Flower. Holding other prominent official positions under the state and na tional governments. R. N. McLaren, W. H. H. Taylor, W. W. Braden, B. W. Brunson, J. P. Mcllrath, Charles Kittelson, J. J. McCardy, Charles D. Kerr, Norman Perkins, James H. Donaldson, E. D. Libby, James H. Baker and J. C. Donahower. Colonels of Minnesota regiments: J. W. Bishop, C. C. Andrews, John B. Sanborn, L. F. Hubbard, James H. Baker, R. N. McLaren and John T. Averill. Officers of the Regular Army : Gen. E. C. Mason, Gen. M. R. Mor gan, Gen. R. W. Johnson, Col. C. H. Alden, Col. H. R. Tilton, Maj. John Kelliher, Maj. George Q. White, Maj. W. R. Bourne, Maj. F. D. Garrity and Capt. Josias R. King. Prominent in the professional life of the city: Most Rev. John Ireland, archbishop of St. Paul ; Rev. Dr. S. Y. McMasters, Revs. C. C. Griswold, E. J. Funk, William McKinley, Clay Macauley and Sidney Smith ; Doctors D. W. Hand, J. H. Murphy, S. D. Flagg, C. C. Higbee, P. F. Dillon, D. R. Greenlee, Parks Ritchie, W. Richeson and D. K. Caldwell; Attorneys H. A. Kimball, C. K. Davis, Warren H. Mead. James H. Davidson, W. T. Burr, FL C. Eller, E. Simonton, C. J. Thomp son, Harvey Officer, John Espey, E. S. Chittenden and Charles D. Kerr. Active in St. Paul journalism: E. V. Smalley, A. P. Connolly, Ed- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 561 ward Richards, H. A. Castle, George B. Winship, H. T. Johns and John M. Keatly. The following, in addition to numbers of those already classified, have been conspicuous in the business affairs of St. Paul and the northwest, including its financial and transportation interests: C. W. Hackett, D. R. Noyes, J. C. Hamilton, H. P. Grant, James H. Dirake, C. H. Kellogg, B. F. Wright, C. H. Osgood, Z. C. Bohrer, Henry Hasenwinkle, W. A. Van Slyke, Albert Scheffer, Joseph Lockey, J. W. Lusk, Henry L. Car ver, C. A. Zimmermann, W. H. Dixon, George W. Cross, J. P. Larkin, T. Doherty and J. C. Becht. In the earliest days of Acker Post many valued comrades identified themselves with it, applied for membership, but through failure to com plete the then complicated process of "muster in,"- or through defects in the first records, their names do not appear on the rolls. They were to all intents and purposes members. They contributed in time and money to its work, marched in its parades, participated in its public exercises and rejoiced in their eligibility to comradeship. It is a pleasure to recall a few of their names at this point, and pay this tribute to their honored memory. Among them were Gen. W. A. Gorman, Gen. W. S. Hancock, Gov. Horace Austin, Col. James Gilfillan, Gen. S. D. Sturgis, Gen. Geo. Sykes, Col. Jas. F. Jaquess, Col. J. H. Hammond, Col. C. W. Griggs, Col. Wm. Crooks, Gen. A. Baird, Gen. O. D. Greene, Col. C. S.- Uline, Gen. A. H! Terry, Gen. T. H. Ruger and Gen. John R. Brooke. Among the patriotic citizens whose sympathy and aid was ever at command, and who are specially entitled to grateful mention here, were : Alexander Ramsey, Henry M. Rice, Frederick Driscoll, Thomas Coch ran, Chas. E. Flandrau, A. B.. Stickney, John S. Prince, William B. Dean, Wilford L. Wilson and James J. Hill. Commanders of Departments As bearing more directly on the esteem in which members of this post have been held by their associates, it may be stated that nine of them have been elected commanders of the Department of Minnesota, G. A. R., viz. : Comrades Hamilton, Castle, Becker, Parker, Ives, Mc- Cardy, Starkweather, Mahan and Compton. In addition, Comrades Geo. B. Winship and W. H. Brown have been commanders of the Depart ment of North Diakota, and Comrade U. S. Hollister has been com mander of the Department of Colorado, since severing their connection with Acker Post. Twelve commanders of the Minnesota Commandery, Military Order of the Loyal Legion, have been chosen from among the comrades of Acker Post, as have all the recorders of the commandery since it was organized in 1885. Notwithstanding the exceptional number who have achieved distinc tion in public and private stations, the comrades of Acker Post have al ways maintained inviolate the principles of absolute fraternity. No ex cessive annual dues have ever been exacted in order to secure "exclu- siveness." No expensive uniforms or other extravagances have been in dulged in. Honor as a soldier and merit as a citizen have been the tests prescribed. During the forty-two years continuous life of Acker Post several other posts of the order have been established in St. Paul. Two of them, Ord and Gettysburg posts, after some years of usefulness, volun- 562 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY tarily disbanded and a considerable number of their members united with Acker, and Garfield Post No. 8, organized in 1882, is still a vigor ous contemporary and colleague in all good works. Auxiliaries The Woman's Relief Corps, auxiliary to Acker Post, has been for twenty years a welcome aid, in many cases indeed the acknowledged leader, in the fraternal, charitable and patriotic enterprises it has under taken. St. Paul Camp, Sons of Veterans, for nearly an equal period has co operated in reducing the burdens entailed upon the post. Acker Post has occupied during its career a dozen meeting places in i ' . administration building minnesota soldiers' home minnehaha falls various localities, but in 1905 was granted, by the state, commodious quarters in the old capitol, which may no doubt be regarded, henceforth, as its permanent home. The National Encampment of the Grand Army of the Republic in St. Paul in 1896, and those held in Minneapolis in 1884 and 1906, en gaged the enthusiastic attention of the post, both as to participation in parades and the entertainment of visitors. All these occasions were of transcendent interest and of inestimable value to the public, as object les sons in patriotism. Accused, in the beginning, of political objects, and of a tendency to keep alive the animosities of the war, the Grand Army of the Republic has long since vindicated itself from these aspersions. With a mem bership representing all parties except anarchists and all sects except ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 563 Mormons, the post has been, from the beginning, free from the slightest suspicion of partisanship or intolerance. Outside Work The Minnesota Soldiers' Home has, from its inception, been an object of the fostering care of this post. One of its members drafted the law creating the institution; another, as governor, signed it when passed; comrades of the post have rendered more than twenty years' gratuitous service on its board of trustees, one of them serving twelve years as president of the board, and another serving as president at this time. When the war with Spain came on, perhaps two score of the sons of members of Acker Post entered their country's service. The St. Paul Camp, Sons of Veterans, volunteered and served as a body. Our hon ored comrade, L. F. Hubbard, has the distinction of being the only Min- nesotan commissioned by President McKinley as a brigader general of volunteers in that contest. One of the later and most creditable of the achievements of Acker Post was the erection of the St. Paul Soldiers' Monument at Summit Park. Efforts have been made to question this fact, but the records show that this post inaugurated the plan by formal resolution; that its committee headed by Joseph J. McCardy, on whose willing shoulders rested the chief responsibility, carried on the work, from securing the site to conducting the dedication. The official records of Acker Post, as well as of the city and county governments, bear witness to the truth of this assertion. The archives of the State Historical Society are the depository of the conclusive proofs. Here, he who cares to investigate the question, may always find them. Exultation for the Future Forty-two years have passed since the thirty-five charter members of Acker Post affixed their names to its honorable roll. As time went on, a goodly company of their comrades and contemporaries gathered around them and a fraternity was formed with ties no other association can equal. A eulogist of the post, said on a recent anniversary occasion: "The ranks are thinned, but there is exultation and not sadness in the hearts of the survivors, as they greet with broadened vision the glories ¦ of the rising future. "Their ranks are thinned, but their works do follow them. Acker Post has been a potent influence for good in this wonderfully progressive and prosperous community. It has stood for law and order, for honor and purity in private dealings and public affairs. It has been a beacon of patriotic illumination to the polyglot nationalities which have helped expand the population of St. Paul from 15,000 to 250,000 during its memorable career. "Individually, the members of this post have, in widely differing spheres of activity, done their part in building up the city and the state. Collectively, they have helped to stimulate the affection for the nation they fought to save. "The Grand Army of the Republic is unique in having no pledge of perpetuity. Its membership is not replaced. Twenty years hence the surviving comrades of Acker Post, if any, will be few and feeble, and its 564 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ranks will have been disbanded. Forty years hence, it will have become, perhaps, a fading memory. "But the patriotic forces it has inspired will be still in vigorous operation, to freshen the glories of the flag, to brighten the destinies of rising generations of freemen, and to strengthen the all-conquering im pulses of progressive, exultant, triumphant Americanism." CHAPTER LI PATRIOTIC SOCIETIES Soldiers Descendants, the Stanchest Reformers — Americanizing Inferior Immigrants — Sons of the American Revolution — Daughters of the American Revolution — Affiliated with the Grand Army of the Republic — Military Order of the Loyal Legion — Order of the Cincinnati — The Spirit of the Sons — Early Settlers and Their Descendants — Military Organiza tions of Germans. The- place occupied in the American life of the twentieth century by the various patriotic societies which have been organized among our citizens, is of great importance to the future well-being of the nation. They are buttresses of law and order; bulwarks of patriotism; beacon- lights of rational freedom ; custodians of priceless national, state and local history. We hear large segments of our people clamoring for deliverance from the grasp of the boss on the one hand and the guile of the demagogue on the other — protesting against machine politics, corporate domination, plutocratic greed and socialistic nostrums. From certain sections come the pungent fumes of applauded lynchings ; the shrieks of enslaved thou sands in blood-stained prison camps; the expostulations of disfranchised millions, to whom "the consent of the governed" is a sterile sarcasm. In other sections, we are pointed to festering abscesses in state and munici pal government, tainting the air with the deadly fetors of political cor ruption. From various congested localities come the imported roar and tumult and jargon of mongrel, alien races, seething with sporadic revolt in the alembic of assimilation. Evils like these must be encountered and vanquished before we can have a perfect peace. Meantime, other evils will be generated in the measureless caverns of human cupidity and venality. Thus the never ending warfare goes on, between the forces of error on the one side and on the other those who stand in all sincerity and manliness for an uplift of political honor, of culture, of morals, of religion undefiled. Soldierly Descendants, the Stanchest Reformers But the forces that stand for the uplift must be organized and affili ated, and earnestly co-operative in their laudable efforts, if success is to be expected. And strange as it may seem, the fact remains, that the men who are most dependable for this organized and federated effort to garner the harvests of peace and ensure the progress of civilization, are the survivors of the wars of the republic and the descendants of its 565 566 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY gallant soldiers in past generations. The surviving veterans of the Union, with the vows of their unselfish, youthful consecration still vivid in their inmost souls, demanding honor and purity in public affairs, have stood four-square against the wrongs that we deplore. Rejoicing in the splen dors of a dimless reminiscence, they have done their share to promote the genuine reforms which alone can work a cure. The young soldiers of the Spanish-American war, and the Philippine campaigns have later incentives to organization and the sons of the Union veterans, with the descendants of Revolutionary and Colonial wars, and their auxil iaries among the patriotic women, all have abundant incentives for the formation of their several societies, and should all be encouraged to extend and perpetuate them. The great problem of properly assimilating and Americanizing an enormous annual immigration, each immigrant a thermal unit of dynamic energy for good or evil, largely depends for its proper solution on the wisdom and activity of the churches, the press, the patriotic societies and the managers of our educational system. Americanizing Inferior Immigrants From July i, 1819, to June 30, 1910, 27,818,710 immigrants were admitted to the United States. Of this number 91.5 per cent came from European countries, which countries are the source of about 93.5 per cent of the present immigration movement. From 1819 to 1883 more than 95 per cent of the total immigration from Europe originated in the United Kingdom, 'Germany, Scandinavia, the Netherlands, Belgium, France and Switzerland. Following 1883, there was a rapid change in the ethnical character of European immigration, and in recent years more than 70 per cent of the movement has originated in southern and eastern Europe. In a single generation Austria-Hungary, Italy and Russia have succeeded the United Kingdom and Germany as the chief sources of immigration. In fact, each of the three countries first named furnished more immigrants to the United States in 1907, than came in the same year from the United Kingdom, Germany, Scandinavia, France, the Netherlands, Belgium and Switzerland combined. The old immigration movement in recent years has rapidly declined, both numerically and relatively, and under present conditions there are no indications that it will materially increase. The new immigration movement is very large, and there are few, if any, indications of its natural abatement. The new immigration, coming in such large num bers, has provoked a widespread feeling of apprehension as to its effect on the economic and social welfare of the country. As a class the new immigrants are largely unskilled laborers, coming from countries where their highest wage is small compared with the lowest wage in the United States. Nearly 75 per cent of them are males. About 83 per cent are between the ages of 14 and 45 years, and consequently are producers rather than, dependents. They bring little money into the country and send or take a considerable part of their earnings out. More than 35 per cent are illiterate as compared with less than 3 per cent of the old immigrant class. These facts, taken from the reports of the United States Immigra tion Commission, strongly emphasize the importance of the educational work required in Americanizing this tremendous influx of foreigners. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 567 The task of assimilating the new immigration is manifestly a far greater one than that which confronted our fathers. In the matter of languages, racial traits and social environments, these new comers are infinitely farther removed from the standards we wish them to achieve, than were our welcome kinsmen from northwestern Europe, whose transition was readily accomplished. Sons of the American Revolution Among the patriotic societies of St. Paul, basing its foundation on ancestral services, perhaps the foremost is that of the Sons of the American Revolution. It is a state association and was organized De cember 26, 1889. It now has 533 members. Its purposes and objects are declared to be patriotic, historical and educational, and include those intended or designed to perpetuate the memory of the men who, by their services or sacrifices during the war of the American Revolution, achieved the independence of the American people; to unite and promote fellow ship among their descendants; to inspire them and the community at large with a more profound reverence for the principles of the govern ment; to encourage historical research in relation to the' American Revo lution; to acquire and preserve the records of the individual services of the patriots of the war for independence, as well as documents, relics, and landmarks; to mark the scenes of the Revolution by appropriate memorials; to celebrate the anniversaries of the prominent events of the war and of the Revolutionary period ; to foster true patriotism ; to main tain and extend the institutions of American freedom, and to carry out the purposes expressed in the preamble of the constitution of our coun try and the injunctions of Washington in his farewell address. Any man is eligible to membership" in the society, who, being of the age of twenty-one years or over and a citizen of good repute in the community, is the lineal descendant of an ancestor who was at all times unfailing in his loyalty to, and rendered active service in, the cause of American independence, either as an officer, soldier, seaman, marine, militiaman or minute man; or as a signer of the Declaration of Inde pendence; or as a member of a committee of safety or correspondence; or as a member of any congress or legislature ; or as a recognized patriot who performed actual service by overt acts of resistance to the authority of Great Britain. The founders of the Minnesota society were John B. Sanborn, Al bert Edgerton, George K. Shaw, A. S. Tallmadge, Rev. E. C. Mitchell, John W. Boxell, Sherwood Hough, C. B. Palmer, R. R. Nelson, G. H. Moffett, Benjamin Nute and E. W. Durant. Albert Edgerton was first president; A. S. Tallmadge, secretary, and Douglas Putnam, treasurer. Among its active officials in subsequent years, were W. H. Grant, S. J. R. McMillan, H. P. Upham, E. S. Chittenden, D. R. Noyes, D. D. Mer rill, Alex Ramsey and W. D. Washburn. The officers of the society are : President, Edward P. Sanborn, St. Paul; vice presidents — Saxe G. L. Roberts, Pine City; Ambrose D. Countryman, Appleton; Stillman H. Bingham, Duluth; Gen. Lewis A. Grant, Minneapolis; — secretary, Charles H. Bronson, St. Paul; assistant secretary, Ernest A. Countryman, St. Paul ; treasurer, Edward S. Strin ger, St. Paul; registrar, Charles Stees, St. Paul; historian^ Henry A. Castle, St. Paul ; chaplain, Rey. M. D. Edwards, D. D., St. Paul. The Sons of the Revolution, an organization for similar purposes, 568 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY and with substantially the same conditions of membership, has also a state society, closely affiliated with that just mentioned. The Society of the Sons of the American Revolution has done good work during the last twenty years in the erection of numerous monu ments and tablets commemorative of the important events and the emi nent patriots of the War for Independence. Much has also been accom plished toward the permanent preservation of the records of that period. During the last four years the society has been carrying on a still greater work in preserving the principles and the institutions founded by the men of 1776. The millions of aliens in the United States are being taught what the nation stands for, what it means for them to become a part of the body politic, participating in the duties and responsibilities of active citizens in an intelligent manner. The immigrants of today may be the good Americans of tomorrow, if they are made to know their privileges and their duties in their adopted country. The children of our alien population may become leaders in the advancement of American ideals. The composite char acter of our nation is an advantage, in that it gives to it a variant energy and a distinctive type of American character. The committee on information for aliens has distributed hundreds of thousands of leaflets throughout the land wherever aliens congregate, telling them in a dozen different languages what they most need to know about the government and our institutions. Another leaflet, printed in English only, explains the importance of becoming naturalized citizens. The society's leaflets have been made text books in many schools of children of aliens in our large cities; they have been widely distributed in settlements of foreigners; newly arrived immigrants have been en couraged to leave the cities and their evil influence and take up employ ment in regions of the country where they may more speedily become active factors in civil and business affairs and in the general promotion of the nation's industrial growth. Daughters of the American Revolution The Daughters of the American Revolution, the largest and most aggressive association of patriotic women in the world, now 90,000 strong, is well represented in St. Paul. It is entirely independent of the Sons though working for similar purposes, and is organized into local "chapters" which, in turn, are represented in state and national congresses. The annual congresses of the Daughters held in Continental Hall, their own splendid building at Washington, D. C, are events of national interest. The chapters in St. Paul are St. Paul, Distaff, and Nathan Hale, all well organized and ready for any good work. The Daughters of the American Revolution of the Twin City have assumed the patriotic task of buying, restoring and furnishing the old home of Gen. H. H. Sibley, at Mendota, which next to the Round Tower at Fort Snelling is our most valued antiquity. They aim to have the house as nearly as possible as it was when built, and decorative effects and furnishings are being carried out with this idea in mind. The in terior is finished in white, and each chapter will provide for decorating and furnishing its own room. The Colonial Dames, the Society of Colonial Wars and other associa tions based on descent from the earlier generations of Americans, have branches in the city, with a membership less numerous than those we ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 569 have named, but not less inspired by patriotic zeal for the preservation of republican institutions. The Grand Army of the Republic, the all-embracing organization of the veterans of the War for the Union, has been given in another chapter the consideration due to its unique character, high aims, and great achieve ments. Subsidiary to it are numerous associations for ex-soldiers and sailors by regiments, by battalions, as naval veterans, ex-prisoners of war, etc., by means of which the fraternal ties that bind the comrades are preserved and strengthened, while the principle of unswerving loyalty is religiously cherished. There is also the Union Veteran Union with a goodly membership of battle-service comrades. Affiliated With the Grand Army of the Republic. Auxiliary to the Grand Army of the Republic, are the Woman's Re lief Corps, and the Ladies of the Grand Army of the Republic. These or ganizations have done and are doing a noble work in aiding needy veter ans in providing comforts and delicacies for inmates of the Soldiers' Home, and in giving patriotic entertainments which have a distinctly bene ficial historical and educational influence. These societies are : Acker Relief Corps No. 7 ; Garfield Relief Corps No. 5 ; Hancock Regiment Woman's Veteran Relief Union; the Ladies of the Grand Army of the Republic; Ladies' Auxiliary No. 12 to the Sons of Veterans and Daughters of Veter ans. Each of them is subordinate to a state organization, which usually maintains a headquarters in St. Paul. In one sense the society of "The Ladies of the Grand Army of the Republic" is not. auxiliary to the Grand Army of the Republic. Its members consider themselves a part of it. Every honorably discharged soldier and his family may become members of the order. The order is not designed to be purely charitable, but is social as well. The national organization was perfected in Chicago on the 18th day of November, 1886. . At this first convention only four states were represented viz. — New Jersey, Pennsylvania, California and Illinois. Miss Laura1 McNeir of Camden, New Jersey, was elected president. The membership at that time was 2,473. At the present time there are de partments in twenty-eight states and territories and a membership of more than 20,000. The officially recognized "auxiliary of the G. A. R" is the Woman's Relief Corps. Its avowed objects are to assist the Grand Army of the Republic to perpetuate the memory of their heroic dead; to aid needy veterans and their widows and orphans and find for the latter homes and employment; to cherish and emulate the deeds of army nurses and other women who rendered loving service in the war; to maintain" alle giance to the Union and inculcate patriotism among children. All women over sixteen years of age of good moral character and deportment, who have not given aid and comfort to the enemies of the Union, and who would perpetuate the principles of the association, are eligible to mem bership. The Woman's Relief Corps, in its national capacity, dates from July, 1883. It was formed by representatives of various soldiers' aid societies and relief associations, which then existed under different forms in sixteen states, some of them organized during the war. It has a full system of reports, maintains strict discipline, and imposes secrecy for the protection of its beneficiaries and members. The national conven tion meets annually at the same time and place as the Grand Army. ' The corps has endowed arid supports a national home for the wives and 570 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY mothers of soldiers and dependent army nurses; it has led to the found ing of soldiers' homes in many states, and has built a large number of monuments, memorial halls, etc. During the year ended June 15, 191 1, the Woman's Relief Corps, of Minnesota, besides expending $2,047 casn for relief and bestowing charities other than money estimated at $5,220, contributed $511.35 to the department treasury of the Grand Army of the Republic. The aggregate amount of patriotic and charitable work done in the state of Minnesota every year by these working bodies of loyal women is simply incalculable. The Sons of Veterans is an association composed of descendants of honorably discharged Union soldiers, and is gradually assuming the patri otic work of the Grand Army of the Republic, as the comrades of that great order, reduced in numbers and enfeebled by age, consent to surren der portions of it to the willing hands of their energetic sons. St. Paul Camp No. 1, Sons of Veterans, was organized twenty-five years ago, TAYLORS FALLS, MINN. ST. CROIX FALLS, WIS. INTER-STATE PARK -TAYLORS FALLS and has numbered in its ranks some of our prominent citizens. When the Spanish war broke out, this camp, which had for some years held a company status in the National Guard of Minnesota, enlisted en masse, in the Fourteenth Regiment, Minnesota Infantry Volunteers, May 15, 1898, and went to the front, the new generation emulating the gallantry of their sires in promptly rallying to the defense of their country's flag. The present officers of the camp are: John Gunther, commander; Geo. T. Drake, secretary, and George Doran, treasurer. Thomas P. O'Reagan of St. Paul is commander of the division of Minnesota and George T. Drake, secretary and treasurer. The "sons" emulate the Grand Army of the Republic in the practice of true fraternity. The equality for which some men yearn is an equality with superiors and a superiority to equals. But both these orders practice what they preach — a genuine equality. The ex-soldiers of the war with Spain and of the campaigns in the Philippines also have their associations to perpetuate their comradeship, preserve their history and encourage patriotic observances. The United ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 571 Spanish War Veterans maintain Worth Bagley Camp and an auxiliary, with headquarters at the old Capitol. Camp Mervin M. Carleton, No. 4, Army of the Philippines, meets once a month at the same hall. C. W. Albretch is commander and William F. Lewis is adjutant. Military Order of the Loyal Legion One of the most successful and influential organizations having in view the inculcation of patriotic principles and the transmittal of correct history is the Military Order of the Loyal Legion, which maintains a state society of large membership with headquarters in St. Paul. It holds monthly meetings alternately at St. Paul and Minneapolis during eight months each year, at each of which a banquet is served and a his torical paper is read. The meeting in February of each year is made specially notable by the presence of ladies and other guests, and by a dedication of the exercises to the memory of Abraham Lincoln, whose birthday anniversary occurs on February 12th. , The Military Order of the Loyal Legion was instituted at Philadelphia in April, 1865. The following is the preamble to the original constitu tion: "We, officers and honorably discharged members of the army, navy and marine corps of the United States whose names are annexed, do acknowledge, as binding upon the conscience and required by all the precepts of our holy religion, as a part of our allegiance to God, un qualified loyalty to the government of the United States of North Am erica ; and, in remembrance of the dangers and glories of this sacred duty, do hereby solemnly associate and continue together in the estab lishment of a permanent and perpetual organization." From the beginning, the order has been very particular as to the eligi bility for membership. Even the records of the three original members were examined by a committee appointed by the commander. Not only must applicants of the war service class have a stainless army or navy record, but their standing as citizens must be satisfactory to their com panions. Commissioned officers of all grades in the regular or volunteer army, navy and marine corps of the United States, during the war for the suppression of the Rebellion, are eligible to first class original mem bership, and the privileges are extended to their descendants. The order in the United States had a total membership on July 1, 191 1, of 8,347, Of which 4,617 were "original," or war service companions. Among those who have served as commanders-in-chief of the order, are Generals W. S. Hancock, Philip H. Sheridan, R. B. Hayes, Lucius Fairchild, John Gibbons, John M. Schofield, John R. Brooke and John C. Bates. The Commandery of the State of Minnesota was instituted June 5, 1885, with the following charter members: Maj.-Gen. John B. Sanborn, Bvt. Maj.-Gen, Henry H. Sibley; Bvt. Brig.-General L. F. Hubbard; Bvt. Maj.-Gen. R. W. Johnson; Bvt. Brig.-Gen. Jas. H. Baker; Bvt. Brig.-Gen. Judson W. Bishop ; Brig.-Gen. William Smith ; Bvt. Brig.-Gen. Samuel Breck; Capt. C. W. Hackett; Capt. Henry A. Castle; Lieut. Albert Scheffer; Lieut. Samuel Appleton; Maj. Geo. W. Baird; Maj. William R. Bourne; Chaplain Edward D. Neill, D. D. ; Bvt. Brig-Gen. S. P. Jennison; Bvt. Lieut.-Col. Charles Bentzoni; Col. Chas. J. Allen; Capt. W. W. Braden, and Bvt. Maj. George Q. White. Major White was elected to the executive office of the commandery recorder on its organization and held that important position continuously until his 572 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY death in 1897. Lieut. David L. Kingsbury succeeded him after a short interval, and was annually reelected until his death. Among those who have served as commanders of the Minnesota Commandery, are Generals Sanborn, Marshall, Sibley, Bishop, Merritt, Mason, Grant, Brooke, Andrews, Hubbard and Adams; Colonels Gilfil- lan, Jennison, Hicks, Benton and Newport; Majors Bourne and Hale; Captains Lochren, Castle, Collins, Torrence, Higbee, Doherty and Har ries. The officers for 1912 are: Lieut. S. H. Towler,. Commander and Capt. Orton S. Clark, recorder. The total membership is now 267. Six handsome volumes, averaging 500 pages each, of the historical papers read by ¦ companions at the regular meeting of the commandery, have been published under the uniform title of "Glimpses of the Na tion's Struggle." A volume of 200 pages entitled "Addresses in Memory of Abraham Lincoln" delivered before the Minnesota Commandery at it's special Lincoln banquets, has been printed by the state, under the direction of Hon. C. G. Schulz, superintendent of public instruction. Order of the Cincinnati The society which furnished the precedent and the model for the Loyal Legion was that of the "Cincinnati," formed by the Revolutionary officers at the close of the War for Independence. The early history of this association is of interest. It was organized in 1783, while the remnants of the Continental army lay in cantonments at Newburg on the Hudson. The initiation fee was one month's pay, and an order on the treasury of the United States was taken in payment. The officers had no money. Baron Steuben was the principal promoter and George Wash ington was the first president general. The following was the declara tion of principles and objects: "An incessant attention to preserve in violate those exalted rights and liberties of human nature for which they have fought and bled, and without which the high rank of a national be ing is a curse, instead of a blessing. "An unalterable, determination to promote and cherish between the respective states, that union and national honor so essentially necessary to their happiness and the future dignity of the American empire. "To render permanent the cordial affection subsisting among the officers. This spirit will . . . extend to the most substantial acts of beneficence ... towards those officers and their families who unfor tunately may be under the necessity of receiving it." This declaration aroused vehement opposition. The legislatures of some of the states fiercely denounced the order, by resolution, and passed laws aimed directly at its existence. The principles of the order were declared to be in conflict with American institutions, because it permitted the hereditary descent of honors, and because, being an organization of military men, it tended to create a privileged class. So severe was the storm that the president general thought it best to yield to it, and in an elaborate address to the order advised a change of its constitution, abolish ing the hereditary feature, retaining its charitable provisions and deck ing its chief purpose to inculcate the "duty of those taking up arms in time of war for the national defence, to lay them down in times of peace." The state societies, however, neglected to take action upon the proposed amendments and they were never adopted. We, who have seen millions of armed men melt in a day into a mass of citizens like snow- flakes falling upon water, can smile at this exhibition of jealous fear. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 573 But what we ought to admire and imitate is that passionate love of free institutions that will brook no attack, come from what source it may. In spite of hostility and opposition, the Cincinnati has maintained an existence until the present time. But owing to the failure of later generations to aggressively avow the patriotic principles of its founders, it has not been the influential force in the republic which those founders evidently expected it to be. The Spirit of the Sons An an index of the spirit which animates the rising generation of loyal young men, enrolled in the Sons of Veterans, and the inheritance classes of the Loyal Legion, we may quote from the address of greeting by Divi sion Commander Villars to the Department Encampment of the Grand Army of the Republic, at St. Paul, June 16, 191 1. "We are your sons. We have your blood in our veins, your spirit our hearts. The purposes that influenced you fifty years ago, I believe dominate us. It has taken some of us a long while to realize all this ; a good many a long time to appre ciate all that sonship means. But if you will bear with us for a few years longer, you will live long enough to see that the army of the Sons of Veterans will be worthy its sires. We believe in Old Glory; we be lieve in all that for which she stands ; we believe in the Grand Army of the Republic, and we stand not only as the defenders of our flag upon the battlefield, if God please, but in civic affairs, in municipal affairs, in social affairs; standing not only for the flag in its relation to political and civic organization, but standing also as your sons, whose duty it is, as your hair become frosted by winter and your breasts filled with cares that are becoming burdensome, and your feet just a little bit more un certain in some cases, I find, than they were a few years ago, to bring to you our strong arms and our loving hearts, to help you in these days to carry the loads and to walk with you in this wearisome way. I am the son of a veteran, the one thing in all the world that I brag about, even if I wasn't to blame for it. I am glad that my father was man enough to desert his wife. Pretty tough proposition for some fellows. He left her on a little farm in Illinois, three miles from any other residence ; left her with a little babe on her breast to run her farm in the summer time, to get her coal for winter herself ; haul it herself, teach school in the winter time and wait for reports from the battlefields. "Father came home on a sick furlough one time and while he was there the little lad of the home suddenly sickened and died. They had a funeral procession. They couldn't have as big ones then as we have now adays, for the simple reason that all the men were gone practically, and that funeral procession was a team of mules hitched to a lumber wagon, in which was a little pine box that my father had made himself, for he didn't have the salary then of the Methodist preachers of today. The second vehicle in the procession was another lumber wagon; its occu pants a boy in blue, and a woman in calico wearing an old-fashioned slat-bonnet. There was not a preacher in the country to say the words over the body of the little baby. They went to the cemetery and laid it away and then my father took my mother in his arms and kissed her good-bye and went directly from the grave to the train. His furlough had expired. It was hard for him, comrades. But listen. He went back to the battlefield ; he went back to the camp, with its excitement and its enthusiasm, and its jokes ; back to it all. Mother went back to that lit- 574 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY tie two-room shack on the plains, alone, to waken in the night and miss the little hands that clasped her neck and the little face that nestled on her breast. She was as great in her heroism as was he; and I am only one of the multitude of sons who stand today proud of the blood that- flows in their veins. And so be patient with us a little while and we will demonstrate to you that we believe in our ancestry, and we will show you in the days to come the blood that is in us." Early Settlers and Their Descendants Scarcely second in interest and value to the societies which incul cate a nation-wide spirit of patriotism, are those organized to perpetuate the traditions, the comradeship and the records of achievement, by the early settlers of Minnesota, their descendants and successors. The prin ciples, policies and methods of these associations correspond, on a less extended but equally lofty plane, with those held by the national organi zations. Rightly handled they will transmit to posterity something of the pioneer enthusiasm which founded and built up our imperial common wealth. St. Paul is the natural headquarters of these societies, since so much of its history is inextricably interwoven with that of the terri tory and state. Responsibility often produces ability, but power always floats into the hands of men who can do things. The men who did things royally and nobly in those first years, and their early successors, have done well to organize and transmit and perpetuate the story of what they did and saw and suffered. The first of these societies was the Old Settlers' Association of Min nesota, incorporated March 23, 1857. Its first meeting was held in the hall of the Historical Society in St. Paul February 27, 1858 — H. H. Sib ley, chairman; A. L. Larpenteur, secretary. The original incorporators numbered one hundred and one. The object of the association was to provide a fund for the support and assistance of such old settlers of Minnesota as may be deemed worthy of support,; to collect and dissemi nate useful information in relation to the early history and settlement of Minnesota; to record and preserve the names of its members and the date of their arrival in the territory, the state and county from which they emigrated, etc. The first officers were: Socrates Nelson, presi dent; Charles H. Oakes, first vice president; Philander Prescott, second vice president; Aaron Goodrich, secretary; Lott Moffett, treasurer — executive committee: John P. Owens, H. F. Masterson, Mahlon Black, W. R. Brown and J. E. McKusick. Eligibility to membership was based on settlement in Minnesota prior to January 1, 1850. The association re solved to commemorate the organization of Minnesota territory by a banquet at the Merchants Flotel, St. Paul, on the first day of June, the anniversary of that event, which occurred in 1849. The celebration has been annually observed _ until this day, with a steadily diminishing at tendance. The following members were present at roll call June 1, 1881 : H. H. Sibley, William P. Murray, Richard Chute, Bart. Presley, J. W. Bass, Aaron Goodrich, Oliver Parsons, A. D. Nelson, H. F. Masterson, Hon. Alex. Ramsey, Joseph Guion, John B. Spencer, A. L. Larpenteur, H. L. Moss, J. Villaume, Thomas Odell, B. W. Lott, Dr. J. H. Murphy, Sylvester Stateler, B. F. Irvine, A. H. Cavender, David Day, Dr. John Dewey, E. W. Durant, H. M. Rice, Edmund Rice and J. D. Ludden, — quite a vigorous representation for "thirty years after." But another thirty years passed, and at the dinner held at the Merchants Hotel June ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 575 i, 191 1, there were present only: A. L. Larpenteur, J. K. Humphrey, Sylvester Stateler, J. Villaume, and J. H. Randall, with E. W. Durant reporting by letter from a southern state. The Territorial Pioneers of Minnesota is an association composed of persons resident here on or before May 11, 1858, the day the state was admitted to the Union. The society was organized at the Merchants Hotel, St. Paul, May 11, 1897, by 100 eligibles. The first officers were: Alvaren Allen, president; William E. Lee and H. S. Fairchild, vice presi dents ; W. H. Hoyt, secretary, and John A. Stees, treasurer. The asso ciation has had a vigorous career. Judge L. W. Collins was its second president, and M. J. O'Connor was secretary. Subsequent presidents included E. W. Durant, John S. Pillsbury, J. B. Gilfillan, Edwin Clark and others equally prominent. In 1904 George H. Hazzard was elected secretary and has continued in that position ever since. He maintains an office at the old capitol, and keeps open house at the Log Cabin on the state fair grounds during "fair week" every year. With but little financial as sistance he is gathering up relics of the early settlement of the territory and states; hundreds of portraits of pioneers; bits of household goods and the crude farming implements of those early days — ancient days they are to Minnesota — and doing his best to preserve them for the time when they will be regarded priceless in value as historic mementoes. The interesting exhibit of these things in the Log Cabin and Institute Hall on the fair grounds, for which Mr. Hazzard deserves the chief if not en tire credit, is, it may be hoped, the prelude to a historical museum, in an imposing building filled with relics, mementoes and specimens of handi craft illustrative of the progress of the state. Minnesota is to be con gratulated upon having one citizen possessing the relic-hunting taste; the industry and enthusiasm of Mr. Hazzard in this line of endeavor. The officers of the Territorial Pioneers for 1911-12 are: E. F. Ber- risford, president; George H. Hazzard, secretary, and John A. Stees, treasurer. The membership is over 2,000. The Junior Pioneer Association of Ramsey County is a vigorous and active organization of the younger generation of Minnesotans, many of them born in St. Paul, children of the pioneers, imbued with the energy and zeal of their revered ancestors and full of faith in the future of the city. The membership is over 600. Among its active promoters and ex- presidents are E. W. Bazille, Silas E. Foreman and Edward Dahl, the last named being secretary. The association owns a costly and conven ient building, with ample halls, dining rooms, etc., at Ninth and Ex change streets. Military Organizations of Germans Many of the older set of Germans in St. Paul were soldiers in the Imperial army ; a number of them fought in the Franco- Prussian war or in the Schleswig-Holstein trouble. There are natives of Austria-Hungary living in St. Paul who have gone to war for the double monarchy so closely allied to the German empire. Both the German and Austrian warriors and former soldiers have formed military organizations, among which the "Deutscher Krieger Verein," "Deutscher Soldaten Unterstuet- zungsverein" and the "Austrian Hungarian Military Association" take the lead. It is the purpose of these societies to cultivate among the members and at home good comradeship, the love and patriotism for the 576 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY country for which they fought and at the same time uphold the principles of real American citizenship. There is also an organization of Germans who served as volunteers in the Civil war, the German-American Veteran Association. There can certainly be no more reliably patriotic society than one composed of foreign born citizens who risked their lives in defense of the Union when many native sons evaded their duty. CHAPTER LII CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS AND ASSOCIATIONS The Protestant Orphan Asylum — For the Relief of the Un employed — Board of Control of Public Charities — The City and County Hospital — Societies and Homes — Society for the Relief of the Poor — Prevention of Tuberculosis — The Am herst H. Wilder Charity — Modern Charitable Methods Climatic conditions have, from the beginning, called attention to the necessity for ample provision to care for unfortunate and destitute indi viduals in the community — a necessity which has never failed to elicit an adequate response from the sympathetic and generous people of the city. The benevolent organizations of St. Paul cover a wide range, both in the diversified elements of which they are composed and the variety of objects for which they are formed. Protestants, Catholics and He brews vie with each other in endeavors to alleviate poverty and suffering among those who have claim upon their special care. Large German and Scandinavian societies are active in aiding their own countrymen. Both men and women contribute generously according to their means, and the universal participation by St. Paul people in personal charitable work commands admiration for their unselfish devotion to promoting the welfare of the less fortunate. The relief takes the form in turn of educational, spiritual and material aid. It is administered in the home or through some institution. It reaches all classes — the aged, the children, mothers, widows or deserted wives; the unemployed, homeless men, wayward or unprotected girls; the sick and those afflicted with permanent physical disabilities. Clothing is freely supplied to those who are in need of it. Hospitals, asylums and homes have been built and endowed for those requiring temporary or permanent shelter. Medical care, drugs and even nursing are be stowed upon those who cannot afford to pay for them. Shiftless and ignorant mothers are taught the elements of housekeeping; children are trained to use their hands in useful occupations. Work is found for those who are able and willing to work. Food and fuel are furnished to tide over periods of destitution. Families are instructed in the value of thrift and self-reliance. Of the numerous beneficent institutions maintained by the Catholic church due mention has been made in a preceding chapter. Those en dowed by other denominations, as well as non-sectarian and public char ities, will be considered herein. The Protestant Orphan Asylum The Protestant Orphan Asylum was organized May, 1865, for the care of Protestant orphans and destitute children. In the fall of the 577 578 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY same year, property pn the corner of Western and Marshall avenues was purchased and the institution was opened with six children as inmates, which in 1878 had grown to a family of forty-four persons. In 1872 a more commodious house was secured, then deemed sufficiently extensive for the needs of many years, but the number seeking aid of the asylum was so large that they were obliged to enlarge the building. The present is a very fine stone building located on Marshall avenue. The house and grounds were purchased from a gentleman who formerly oc cupied it as a summer residence ; there were twenty-five acres of land be longing to the place, a beautiful grove of trees back of the house making a delightful playground for the children. There is a good school con nected with the institution in which the common branches of education are taught. Religious services under the charge of different Protestant clergymen are held Sunday afternoons at the asylum. The children are cared for until they are old enough to take care of themselves, and then good places are provided for them, unless they are previously adopted by some good family. It is supported partially by the city; the balance is raised by private subscriptions, cash donations, etc. The first officers were: Mrs. Horace Thompson, president; Mrs. G. A. Hamilton, vice president; Mrs. E. F. Drake, treasurer; Mrs. C. W. Griggs, secretary. Board of managers: Mrs. Col. Morton, Mrs. A. G. Foster, Mrs. G. P. Jackson, Mrs. Dr. S. Conn, Mrs. Horace Thompson, Mrs. E. F. Drake, Mrs. G. A. Hamilton, Mrs. A. H. Wilder, Mrs. S. B. McConnell, Mrs. D. R. Noyes, Miss E. M. Terry, and Mrs. C. W. Griggs. Miss Emma Siebert is matron, Miss Stone, teacher, and Dr. C. G. Higbee, physician. There are now forty-five inmates and the officers are Mrs. H. T. Drake, president, and Mrs. W. R. Ramsey, recording secretary. For the Relief of the Unemployed A special emergency arose during the fall and winter of 1893-4 which led to the formation of the citizens committee for the relief of the un employed, and to the adoption of measures which, having since served as a model for other cities, are worthy of record here. As early as August, 1893, it became evident that there would be many destitute un employed during the ensuing winter, owing to the financial depression that had closed many industries. The matter was brought to the notice of Mayor F. P. Wright and meetings were held in his office to consider the subject. Among those who were invited by the mayor to attend these conferences, were J. J. McCardy, comptroller, L. T. Chamberlain, attorney, Alderman O. O. Cullen and Assemblyman F. B. Doran, repre senting the city government ; John Kerwin and Adam Fink, of the board of control; Peter Daly and Robert Seng, of the county commissioners; J. A. Wheelock, president of park commissioners ; Rev. S. G. Smith, D. D. and Rev. H. H. Hart, of the State Board of Corrections and Charities ; President Henry A. Castle and Directors R. S. Tallmadge and Thomas Cochran, of the Chamber of Commerce ; W. L. Wilson, D. R. Noyes and M. L. Hutchins, of the Relief Society; Rev. P. R. Heffron, represent ing the Catholic benevolent societies; Rev. David Morgan, representing the Friendly Inn; James Morrow and Harry Gray, of the Trades and Labor Assembly ; C. E. Flandrau, H. P. Hall and George Thompson, in addition to Mr. Wheelock, representing the daily newspapers. As a result of many conferences a plan of organization and opera tions was adopted, which resulted in the citizens' executive committee ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 579 consisting of Mayor F. P. Wright, chairman; A. S. Tallmadge, secre tary; Henry A. Castle, treasurer; W. L. Wilson, superintendent; F. B. Doran, James Morrow, O. O. Cullen, Geo. C. Squires and T. A. Abbott. The active work of this executive committee began October 16, 1893, and continued until April 30, 1894. The plan was adopted of furnishing employment, not giving charity. A total of 1,687 men, heads of families aggregating 8,932 persons, received employment during the winter, work ing on the city streets and parks at the uniform wage of a dollar a day. A total of almost $50,000 was thus disbursed, at a cost of only $749 for clerical help, stationery, etc. The funds used by the committee came from the following sources : City contingent fund, 1893 $ 9,000.00 City contingent fund, 1894 10,000.00 Transferred assessments 5,650.01 Park funds 13,822.98 Citizens' contributions 9,562.20 Donations of fuel and flour 588.00 Wood yard 483.10 Total $49,106.29 The city money was paid out in the regular way, on street and park pay rolls, to the men who did the work. Of the citizens' contributions over $7,000 was deposited in the city treasury and paid out in the same way, while $2,728 was paid on orders for wood and groceries furnished to certain classes of laborers, with their consent, in order that their families might get the entire benefit. When the committee submitted its final report the Pioneer Press made the following editorial comment on its operations : "The detailed report of the operations of the citizens' relief committee since they began their work last fall is a model of con cise statement which presents, in its statistical results, a bird's eye view of the magnitude of the task they undertook in finding work for the unemployed and in winnowing out the undeserving applicants, of the energy and fidelity and success with which they performed it. In all it appears that nearly $50,000 was expended from funds contributed by the city and by private citizens, through the agency of the citizens' relief committee in giving work at one dollar a day to the needy un employed, in addition to all the large sums expended by other organi zations, most of them in relief of the destitute for whom no work could be found or who were unable to work. After reading this report, no one can doubt that the system adopted by the citizens' relief committee was the very best which could have been devised for making the funds available for the purpose go as far as possible for the relief of destitute families. That system was to make aid conditional on work. A dollar a day was fixed as the wage for relief work in order not to encourage a feeling or habit of depending upon public aid. It was limited to men with families whom investigation proved to be in need of assistance. It has worked immensely better than soup .houses or other forms of indis criminate charity. The citizens' relief committee — especially Mr. W. L. Wilson, Capt. Henry A. Castle and those immediately in charge of the work — are entitled to the earnest gratitude not only of the beneficiaries of their charitable labors, but of the whole community, for their un selfish unremitting devotion to the interests of the Lord's poor, and for vol. n— 9 580 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY the great good they have accomplished with the small means at their command." In all the benevolent work and in all the charitable organizations in the city's history, certain honored names stand out as willing helpers in every good cause. Liberal contributors were numerous and always appreciated, but the men who could spare time from their pressing business cares to carefully administer the private benefactions ,and public appropriations were held in special esteem. Without discrimi nating against some others perhaps equally worthy, we may be per mitted to name a few as entitled to grateful remembrance. They are Wilford L. Wilson, D. W. Ingersoll, D. R. Noyes, Dr. Samuel G. Smith, Charles E. Mayo, C. D. Strong, D. D. Merrill, Dillon O'Brien, J. B. Sanborn, George Benz, Thos. Cochran, John Nicols, H. M. Rice, F. Driscoll and C. E. Flandrau. They were philanthropists in the best sense. Board of Control of Public Charities The public charities of the city and county, including outdoor relief, the administration of the city and county hospital, the alms house and poor farm, the detention hospital for the insane, the smallpox hospital, etc, are managed by the Board of Control. This board had its incep tion in the directors of the alms house and hospital, Ramsey county; organized July 22, 1872; first meeting consisting of C. H. Schurmeier. Thomas Grace and Lorenzo Hoyt, with William Welch, clerk. On April 10, 1873, William Lindeke succeeds Schurmeier, deceased. June 4, 1874, H. J. Brainard succeeds L. Hoyt. May 21, 1877, B. Michel succeeds William Lindeke. June 21, 1877, William Freeman succeeds H. J. Brainard. January 13, 1881, Jacob Heck succeeds B. Michel. City and county physicians: Drs. Smith and Hand from 1872; Dr. Mattocks succeeds, in September, 1877; December 15, 1880, Drs. Stewart and Wheaton succeed Dr. Mattocks. The Board of Control, formerly appointed by the judges of the dis trict court, now by the county commissioners, succeeded to all these functions, with additional powers, which have been administered with wisdom and prudence. The lamented death of N. P. Langford, presi dent of the board, in October, 191 1, removed one trusted and venerated figure, who for many years had exercised a wholesome influence on all its enterprises. When in 1885 the Ramsey county poor farm on Snelling avenue was donated for State Fair grounds, a quarter section of land was pur chased on White Bear avenue just beyond the city limits and adjoining North St. Paul. On this tract the new and modern alms house of the county has been built, and is fully equipped with all the necessary appliances of such institutions. The City and County Hospital The development of the city and county hospital, at Jefferson ave nue and Colborn street, under the jurisdiction of the Board of Control and under the direct management of Dr. A. B. Ancker, superintendent, also city and county physician, has fully kept pace with the growth of the city itself. In 1883, when Dr. Ancker took charge, the hospital consisted of a single building, an old stone residence; the water came from a well, and kerosene lamps supplied light. Attendants divided ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 581 their time between cooking, cleaning, washing and nursing. Operations were performed behind a screen, and the cellar served as a morgue. There was no training school, no staff, and Dr. Ancker attended to the patients, to the police surgery of a young community, and to the city and county outside sick. Step by step, by patient planning, persistent effort and tireless exposition of its most urgent needs, the organization has grown in three decades to its present great proportions, adding a wing, a building, a department as often as means- could be obtained. The St. Paul City hospital is now the eighth largest general hospital in North America; it is constantly growing, and each department as it is added represents the most recent advances in medical science. There is no suggestion of lavish expenditure or waste and the effort seems to have been realized to make every dollar spent produce its equivalent in perfect cleanliness, the most sanitary conditions, and material of the best quality. The grounds, which are beautifully kept, command near views of the Mississippi river and its steep bluffs, and are about five acres in extent. The main building is 400 feet long, with large wings, and all buildings are connected by an underground passage. The capacity is now 615 beds. Fifty-five hundred patients received treatment in 1910, representing an increase of about eight hundred over the preceding year and requiring a staff of fifty visiting physicians, ninety nurses and many internes. The newest part of the hospital proper is the west wing, a three-story addition, in operation about two years and devoted to the women's and children's wards, including the maternity department, of which class of cases there are 400 a year. The operating and sterilizing rooms are complete and immaculate. The linen is snowy; beds and cribs, chairs, tables, screens and other necessary furniture, while severely plain, are of the best quality and chosen with an eye to their enduring quality. The wards vary in size from those that contain a single bed to those with eighteen or twenty. No class of inmates receives more scrupulous care than the babies. Those born in the hospital can in no sense be called patients, but are given the best start in life which plenty of nourishment, fresh air and sunshine can furnish. Most of the patients cared for here are free. It occasionally hap pens that a person willing and able to pay applies for admission, and such a case is admitted, provided it does not require such extraordinary care as to interfere with what is due to the free patients. As a matter of fact, the very great majority belong to the industrial classes, laborers, artisans, domestic servants, who are, under normal conditions, self-sup porting and who often have others dependent upon them. St. Paul has taken the broad, wise view of this enterprise, and the city government has invariably responded generously to the applications of the hospital man agement, not only for maintenance but for funds for specific improve ments and additions. There is being built a two-story laundry, 100 by 105 feet, which will increase the resources of the old laundry more than two fold. Three four-story service buildings are next to be built, to con tain kitchen, bakeshop, cold storage boxes, storerooms, dining rooms for nurses, officers and help, and sleeping quarters for about two hundred employes. Other Hospitals and Sanitariums There are in St. Paul a number of other hospitals and sanitariums, about twenty in all, both large and small, for general or specific treatment, 582 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY in part or wholly supported by the charge made to patients. Among them may be mentioned St. Joseph's, a large hospital founded in 1854 and con ducted by the Catholics ; St. Luke's, an Episcopalian institution chartered in 1857, enlarged in 1873 and in part maintained by that denomination; the St. Paul German hospital; the Cobb hospital, homeopathic, at Mer riam Park with- 22 rooms and a complete equipment; the new Lutheran hospital, Dayton's Bluff; Bethesda hospital and Deaconess' home, a Methodist undertaking which does much charitable work; the Mounds Park Sanitarium and Cuenca Sanitarium for the Treatment of Tuber culosis. To the excellent conduct of these and similar institutions, as well as the free dispensaries and the high professional standards of their medical staffs, must in part be ascribed the remarkably low death rate. The prevalence of antiseptic creeds and predigested theology does not seem to interrupt the good work of the churches in caring for man's physical welfare. Societies and Homes The Hebrews have the only social settlement, Neighborhood House, which, while it has a non-sectarian board, works principally among the Jews of the city. There are also the Hebrew Ladies' Aid Society and the Jewish Relief Society, working along the same general lines as the Guild of Catholic Women ; and the Jewish Home for the Aged provides for the needs of that most helpless element of society. The Deutsche Gesellschaft is a German aid society of comparatively recent origin, supported by German citizens of St. Paul, and designed to give aid primarily to their own countrymen here. The King's Daughters' Aid Society is a strong organization with a large membership, which does a great deal of genuinely useful, intelligent work, keeping track of the cases that come under its observation and embodying the results in re ports which are filed for future reference or comparison. On somewhat the same order is St. Margaret's Guild, an active, well managed society connected with St. John's Episcopal church. Probably every church in the city has one or more charitable societies in full operation. The Sun shine Society is also well represented in St. Paul, and does some par ticularly valuable work in establishing summer outing camps. The St. Paul branch of the Needlework Guild of America is sub divided into thirty-four districts, each with its own president and sepe- rate organization, which obtains contributions and superintends the mak ing of garments and other necessary articles for the poor. The officers of the St. Paul society for 1911-12 are: Mrs. A. R. McGill, president; Mrs. O. B. Lewis, secretary; Mrs. A. T. Moss, treasurer. It was or ganized in 1892. During 191 1 the total number of garments collected was 6,029. About 1,800 were distributed to needy individuals. The Home of the Friendless Association was drganized May 26, 1867, under the name of the Ladies Christian Union. The officers of the society were Mrs. D. W. Ingersoll, president; Mrs. F. A. Noble, Mrs. G. W. Hamilton, Mrs. D. Cobb, vice presidents ; Mrs. A. J. Rulif son, correspond ing secretary; Mrs. C. D. Strong, recording secretary; Mrs. William Wakefield, treasurer, with a board of managers consisting of thirty-six ladies, being three from each of the twelve churches represented. Be sides the ladies above named, earnest attention to the interests of the home was given, in its earlier years, by Mrs. Pascal Smith, Mrs. Emily Huntington Miller, Mrs. Henry A. Castle, Mrs. Mary C. Flagg, Miss Kate ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 583 Nicols and others. In January, 1869, a home was established on Walnut street, which existed only a few months. In the same year a new con stitution was adopted, and the name changed to the Ladies Relief Asso ciation "of St. Paul. In May, 1869, the property known as the Collins place, situated on Collins avenue, was purchased, and the Home for the Friendless was established in its present location, just two years from the organization of the society. The Ladies Relief Association procured a charter and became an incorporated body in April, 1870. In 1877 the name was changed from Ladies Relief Association to the Home of the Friendless Association of St. Paul, which was done by a special act of the legislature. The object of the home is to provide temporary shelter for destitute women and children, and to assist those who are able to work to find places where they can support themselves. Mr. D. R. Noyes contributed to Vol. XII of the Minnesota Historical Society Collections a very complete history of the charities of the city and state — a subject for which no man was better equipped by sympathy and experience. The Women's Christian Home was founded by the Magdalen So ciety, which began its work by opening the home and receiving inmates November 1, 1873, it being at that time under the official control of the following board of managers: Mrs. D. S. B. Johnston, president; Mrs. A. G. Menson, vice president; Charles E. Parker, recording secretary; J. B. Cook, corresponding secretary; F. B. Farwell, treasurer. The ob ject of this society is the promotion of moral purity, by affording a home to erring women who manifest a desire to return to the path of virtue and by procuring employment for their future support. The Bethel Mothers' Club has recently assumed the form of a per manent organization with headquarters in the Bethel hotel, where civic problems, such as proper housing, playgrounds and the like, are discussed and studied, and also where women may come and work for clothing. The Bethel hotel is itself a most interesting institution which has been in existence more than twenty years, and is maintained under the direction of Rev. David Morgan. It is intended to furnish a temporary home at very low cost for homeless men, of whom there are many drifting through the city; it performs for St. Paul much the same office that the famous Mills hotels do for New York. In connection with this same enterprise an industrial school is conducted by the Relief Society ; and another in dustrial school is carried on from October to April in each year by the People's Church. In these schools classes are conducted in kitchen gar- ' dening, sewing, cooking, housework and for boys in wood and iron work. Society for the Relief of the Poor The Society for the Relief of the. Poor is one of the oldest. of St. Paul's charities, undenominational in character and catholic in its pur poses. It gives such timely aid as seems most imperative, whether food, fuel, work for people who are too poor to pay, clothing, or temporary financial assistance. The Relief society was first organized March 16, 1876, under the name of St. Paul Society for Improving the Condition of the Poor, and it assumed work previously done by the Y. M. C. A. H. M. Rice was president; Alex. Ramsey, H. H. Sibley, Wm. R. Mar shall, C. K. Davis, vice presidents; Daniel R. Noyes, treasurer; E. W. Chase, relief secretary. It reorganized November 13, 1877, as the St. Paul' Relief Society, by the consolidation of the Society for the Improve- 584 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ment of the Poor and the Woman's Christian Association. M. L. Hutchins, secretary, is the executive officer. During the past five years 68,664 cases have been cared for, the cash value of supplies and aid being $84,560. Closely affiliated with it is the Day Nursery where, for a nominal fee of five cents, a mother can leave her children for the day while she goes out to work. An interesting experiment in welfare work has recently been inau gurated in connection with one of the largest factories of the city, where the management are taking special pains to care for their employes. They employ a philanthropic woman as welfare worker to study and minister to the needs of the women employes, have an excellent lunch room and restaurant, wash rooms, lavatories and rest room, and make all the pro vision possible for the health, comfort and well-being of those who work for them. Prevention of Tuberculosis The study of practical means for the prevention and cure of tuber culosis is receiving special attention from the St. Paul Anti-Tuberculosis Committee, which maintains a corps of visiting nurses and has within the last two years established the Cuenca sanitarium for curable cases at Bass Lake. The Eva Shapiro Memorial Camp at White Bear Lake was founded by Mrs. Pauline Shapiro to give children of tuberculus par ents, or those who show malnutrition,' an opportunity for an open life under favorable conditions of supervision and nourishment. Other fea tures are the dispensary at No. 26 West Third street, where the number of cases examined run up into the thousands in a single year, and a most important educational campaign, including a tuberculosis exhibit. The largest single element in its financial support is Tag day, conducted by the women of St. Paul, and which on November 1, 1910 and 1911, col lected an aggregate of over $36,000. It is possible for a society organized like this to do pioneer work in discovering local conditions, to help in pointing out the most effective manner to improve these conditions and do valuable work along pre ventive and educational lines. But all of this is rendered painfully wasteful and extravagant, if the community itself refuses to provide for that most dangerous of its citizens, the advanced tuberculous patient. Such a person is, with a few exceptions, in St. Paul, compelled to re main in his own home, it makes no difference how improper it is, and there to die and leave behind him an ever widening circle of infection. A house has been discovered here where three generations have de veloped tuberculosis and in families coming under the direct care of the committee's nurses, seven families have had four cases ; three, five cases, and two families, eight cases, all occurring in a few years. The strenuous efforts of Supt. A. B. Ancker of the City Hospital to secure funds for a tuberculosis building now bids fair to meet with success. The Sunshine societies and women's clubs of the city are aiding in a movement to raise by subscription $25,000 for the Church Home for the Aged on Fuller avenue to enable that institution to erect a new building so that the ground donated by Joseph Elsinger may be utilized. The women of the Jewish and other clubs of the city are much in terested in the completion of the St. Paul Hebrew Institute and Shelter ing Home, Kentucky and Fenton streets, which is to serve as a social center for the Hebrew district on the West Side. The building, which cost $20,000, was dedicated in 191 1. The Jewish Relief Society, the St. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 585 Paul Council of Jewish Women and other clubs of similar nature are working along the same lines which the new home is expected to cover, namely the care of the Jewish strangers in the city. The Union Gospel Mission works chiefly among down-and-out men, providing them with temporary shelter and trying to rehabilitate them. The city furnishes relief in the form of fuel or fdod supplies through its Board of Control. The State Soldiers' Relief Fund, headquarters in St. Paul, contributes to the families of soldiers who do not receive an adequate pension from the federal government. An important beneficial society for Germans is the German Aid Society. This organization, whose head is Hans E. Grunow, Imperial German consul in St. Paul, is in con stant cooperation with the Wilder Charities and the Relief Society, and provides for the poor or unemployed. The Salvation Army is a notable factor in the city's benevolent en terprises. Its industrial home for men is a very useful adjunct, and its rescue home for women does much good. The church home for old and homeless women has ioo inmates. The Young Women's Friendly Association, founded in 1888; the Free Medical Dispensary, founded in 1896; the Newsboys Home; the City Mission; The Society for Preven tion of Cruelty; the Women's Work Exchange; the Volunteers of Amer ica; the Parental School for Boys; the Swiss Benevolent Society; the Women's Christian Temperance Union; in addition to the numerous Catholic societies elsewhere enumerated, all contribute to the grand ag gregate of relief extended to the needy. Colored citizens of St. Paul who have maintained an orphanage and old people's home on Randolph and Snelling avenue for a number of years now hope to be able to raise a fund sufficient to enable them to build and maintain a larger and more modern institution. The institu tion is known as the Attucks Industrial School and Home, and the loca tion on which the new building is to be built eventually is Randolph street, between Brimhall street and Snelling avenue. Associated Charities The number and scope of the associations enumerated show how broad and comprehensive the effort has been to meet and provide for every class of want and suffering in the city. To guard against over lapping and duplication, pauperization, and unwise gifts of money, the Associated Charities of St. Paul co-operates as far as it is permitted to do so with all other organizations, investigating cases brought to its atten tion, keeping histories of them, advising as to the best form of relief, and making a systematic and continuous study of the general causes pro ducing' misery and poverty and their permanent elimination. Its organized charity is avowedly the union of two of the mightiest forces in the universe, law and love — a combination of charitable impulse and sensible action. The special lines of direct work carried on by the society, friendly visit ing, visiting nurses, visiting housekeeper, legal aid and provident fund work, are all along the lines of prevention and education. This associa tion was formed by Rev. Dr. Samuel G. Smith, and others connected with the Relief Society, to supplement and systematize its work. The Amherst H. Wilder Charity The people of St. Paul have, in the "Wilder Charity," a unique insti tution, and one which wisely administered, is to prove of great impor- 586 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY tance. Interest has been lent to the subject by the long struggle which the trustees had to gain possession of the bulk of the property, and the deli beration with which their plans for its disposition are matured. The fund, which now amounts to about two and three-quarter million dol lars, represents practically the entire fortune of one family, now extinct, whose members were exceedingly generous in a quiet and unostentatious way during their lives. Amherst H. Wilder came to St. Paul from New York state. when a young man, and by activity in many lines built up a large property. He died in 1894, and by his will left $400,000 to found a corporation to be called "The Amherst H. Wilder Charity," the income from which should be used to furnish relief for the poor, sick, aged or otherwise needy people residing from time to time within the limits of St. Paul. Nine years later his only child died, herself childless, leaving her property amounting to about $600,000 in practically the same manner, the corpora tion to be called "The Amherst H. Wilder Charity Founded by Cornelia Day Wilder Appleby." In the same year the only remaining member of the family, Mrs. Amherst H. Wilder, also died, providing by her will for the establishment of a third corporation, for the same general object as the other two, to be called the "A. H. Wilder Charity Founded by Fanny S. Wilder." Her estate, amounting to about a million and a quarter dollars, immediately became the subject of litigation by collateral relatives residing in California and elsewhere, and her will was fought by them unsuccessfully through all the courts to the Supreme court of the United States. The will was sustained in every successive tribunal. The litigation occupied nearly seven years, and twenty lawyers partici pated in it. It is interesting to learn that the fund was about $300,000 larger at the close of the contest than when it began. When the money was at last available, it was decided, in the interest of efficient management, to consolidate the three corporations. The fund originally left by Mr. Wilder had been used in accordance with the terms of his will for about five years, and its annual income of some $15,000 ap plied to the relief of the poor, over three thousand cases having been helped. Permission of the court was obtained to consolidate the three properties, and on December 1, 1910, Amherst H. Wilder Charity, rep resenting the combined estates, commenced its corporate existence. The fund now amounts to $2,700,000, yielding a yearly income of $72,000. Victor M. Watkins, who had been appointed trustee under the succes sive wills became the president of the new corporation. With him were associated as directors John I. H. Field, who is also treasurer; Charles L. Spencer, secretary; Geo. C. Power, president of the Second National Bank, Kenneth Clark, president of the Merchants National Bank, and James H. Skinner, of Lanpher, Skinner & Co., all men who by their standing and character command the confidence of the community. The office of director is permanent and terminable only by death, resignation, removal from St. Paul, or by a court of competent jurisdiction for suf ficient cause. The management of the affairs of the corporation is vested wholly in the hands of these six men and their discretion is very wide. The general purposes of the corporation are defined to be: "To aid and assist and to furnish charity for the worthy poor, sick, aged or other wise needy people of the city of St. Paul, or who may be found within the said city and who are legitimate objects of charity, without regard ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 587 to, or discrimination for, any such persons by reasons of their nationality, sex, color or religious scruples or prejudice." One of the first tasks undertaken by Amherst H. Wilder Charity is the building at the corner of Fifth and Washington streets, on Rice Park, of a structure which is to be the headquarters of charity. After reserv ing for its own purposes, probably the third and fourth floors, it will utilize the remainder of the building, which is four stories in height and occupies a lot 90 by 120 feet, to furnish quarters for other charity or ganizations of St. Paul, which, it is assumed, will promote cooperation among them and increase the effectiveness of their work. The relief work in which the Wilder family was particularly inter ested, is being actively carried on by the new corporation. About two hundred names appear on its pension list, representing probably over a thousand individuals that' are being aided regularly. It maintains four visiting nurses, and a nurse for the baby welfare work, which force it intends to increase. But for the application of the fund as a whole the directors are taking time to study existing charities and methods pur sued in other cities. It is better to be sure than to be sorry. It is their desire so to administer their trust that the utmost good to the greatest number shall be derived from it; that it shall not have the effect of lessening the responsibility of the rest of the community, or drying up the wells of charity. Poverty and Suffering Traced to their Sources and Eliminated Our sociologists and benevolent citizens will not sit down and let the Wilder charity, or the board of control do their appointed work. St. Paul is awakening to the view, adopted by philanthropists, that extreme poverty, disease, moral obliquity and even crime, are social evils arising from conditions requiring scientific treatment which shall diagnose and cure the producing cause. It is therefore of the utmost importance that all forms of charitable work should be well organized and should proceed in a spirit of cooperation and mutual helpfulness, supplementing each other, seeking to discover the sources of human suffering and so far as possible adopting measures which shall go to the root of the evil. Among the most important means of reform are better housing conditions ; more play grounds ; practical education ; warfare against tuberculosis and other dangerous and contagious forms of illness; restrictions as to liquor sell ing, and the continuous struggle to inculcate in individuals habits of thrift, cleanliness, industry, and the spirit of self-respecting self-reliance. "If charitable work continues with its present impetus, we will, for the first time in the history of the world, be able to contradict the Bible, which says that the poor we have always with us," said Dr. I. L. Rypins, who presided at a meeting at the Y. M. C. A. by the friendly visitors' de partment of the associated charities. "With each denomination caring for its own people, and the non-secular organizations caring for all the needy, each one of us is working for the uplifting instead of the de grading of the poor, and the millennium is sure to come to St. Paul and to come soon." CHAPTER LIII SECRET AND FRATERNAL ORDERS St. Paul Lodge No. 3, A. F. & A. M.- — First Grand Lodge of Masons — Formation of Grand Chapter, R. A. M. — First Grand Council — Commanderies — Pioneer Odd Fellows Lodges — Encampment and Grand Lodge — Other St. Paul Odd Fellows Lodges — Mutual Benefit Society — Odd Fellows Block and Home — United Order of Druids — Knights of Pythias — Ancient Order of United Workmen — 0THER Fraternal Bodies Probably the first lodge of Ancient Free and Accepted Masons or ganized in Minnesota territory was St. Paul Lodge, but as charters were issued to lodges at Stillwater and St. Anthony, with earlier dates affixed, St. Paul Lodge became No. 3 on the official roll. St. Paul Lodge No. 3, A. F. & A. M. The St. Paul Lodge was organized under dispensation September 8, 1849; chartered by the Grand Lodge of Ohio, October, 1852, A. L. 5852; chartered by the Grand Lodge of Minnesota at its organization, Febru ary 23, 1853, and rechartered January 10, 1856. In response to call a number of members assembled in the schoolhouse, and resolved to apply to the grand master of Ohio for a dispensation. The petition was signed by Brothers C. K. Smith, Jer. Hughes, D. F. Brawley, Aaron Goodrich, Lot Moffett, W. C. Wright, Justus C. Ramsey, John Conden, Albert Tit- low, John Holland, Levi Sloan and J. A. Atkinside. The dispensation was granted August 8, 1849, appointing Brothers C. K. Smith (territorial secretary) , W. M. ; Jer. Hughes, S. W. ; Daniel F. Brawley, J. W. Meet ings were regularly held during that and the following year and consider able work was done. The first work done was the initiation of Charles Scott, September 17, 1849. A charter was granted at the October session of the Grand Lodge of Ohio, 1852. The first meeting under the charter was held Janu ary 24, 1853, and the following officers installed: D. F. Brawley, master; D. W. C. Dunwell and Lot Moffett, wardens; J. C. Ramsey, treasurer; C. S. Cave, secretary; C. P. V. Lull and B. W. Brunson, deacons; C. D. Elfelt, scribe ; J. Truman, tyler. At the meeting of January 7, 1856, the lodge instructed the master to surrender the charter, jewels, etc., to the Grand Lodge. The charter was surrendered on January 9th. The next day the grand secretary presented a petition signed by fourteen brethren for a new lodge to be named St. Paul Lodge. The same day the following resolution, which had been prepared and reported by a com mittee, was adopted : "Resolved, That a charter be granted for the estab- 588 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 589 lishment of a new lodge in St. Paul, to be named and known as the St. Paul Lodge No. 3." The jewels and furniture became the property of the new lodge. St. Paul lodge retains the number, 3, yet in the roll of lodges it ranks as No. 8. Its present officers ate Robert T. Gourley, W. M. ; T. P. Edwards, secretary. First Grand Lodge of Mas,ons The first communication of the Grand Lodge of Masons of Minnesota was held in St. Paul, February 23, 1853, in accordance with a resolution adopted by each of the several chartered lodges in the territory. Dele gates from three lodges, at St. Paul, St. Anthony and Stillwater, met at the lodge room of St. Paul Lodge to take such measures as were nec essary in order to form a Grand Lodge. The committee was called to new masonic temple order by A. T. C. Pierson, of St. Paul Lodge, and organized by the appointment of A. E. Ames as president, and A. T. C. Pierson as sec retary. Whereupon the following delegates presented the credentials in due form : From St. Paul Lodge, D. F. Brawley, master ; D. W. C. Dun- well and Lot Moffett, wardens; Aaron Goodrich and A. T. C. Pierson, past masters. From . St. John's Lodge, at Stillwater : Dr. Hoyt, proxy for F. K. Bartlett, master; H. N. Setzer, senior warden; D. B. Loomis, proxy for William Holcombe, junior warden. From Cataract Lodge, at St. Anthony: A. E. Ames, master; D. W. Coolbaugh and C. T. Stearns, wardens. Aaron. Goodrich, of St. Paul, offered the following resolu tion, which was unanimously adopted: "Resolved, That we proceed to the preliminaries for the formation of a grand lodge by the appointment of a committee to draft a constitution and regulations for the govern ment thereof, and that said committee be requested to report to this con vention tomorrow." The president of the convention appointed Judge Aaron Goodrich of St. Paul Lodge, Hon. D. B. Loomis of St. John's Lodge, Stillwater, and E. Case of Cataract Lodge, St. Anthony, such com- 590 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY mittee. The committee then adjourned until next day at two o'clock P. M. Upon the opening of the convention, February 24th, a lodge was opened in the third degree in due and ancient form. The convention completed the organization of a grand lodge by the election of grand officers for the ensuing year, and the following were duly elected and installed: A. E. Ames, grand master; Aaron Goodrich, deputy grand master; D. F. Brawley, grand senior warden; A. Van Vorhes, grand junior warden. The Grand Lodge now has jurisdiction over 253 lodges. The principal officers now are : E. A. Kling, Little Falls, grand master ; W. Hayes Laird, Winona, grand treasurer; John Fishel, St. Paul, grand secretary; Owen Morris, St. Paul, D. G. M. Ancient Landmark Lodge, No. 5, was organized January 5, 1854. The charter members were A. T. C. Pierson, I. P. Wright, A. G. Chat- \ field, George L. Becker, A. T. Chamblin, James Y. Caldwell, Henry Mor ris, Reuben Haus, George W. Biddle, Charles Rauch, P. T. Bradley, Charles D. Fillmore and A. J. Morgan. The first officers were A. G. Chatfield, master; I. P. Wright, senior warden; A. T. C. Pierson, junior warden. The present officers are: William Dinwoodie, master; A. P. Swanstrom, secretary, and G. C. Knispel, treasurer. Other lodges of the order in St. Paul are: Summit Lodge, No. 163, chartered in 1885; Braden Lodge, No. 168, chartered in 1886; Shekinah Lodge, West St. Paul, chartered 1888; Midway Lodge, Hamline, char tered 1889; Mizpah Lodge, South St. Paul; Triune Lodge, Merriam Park ; Montgomery and Capital City lodges. Formation of Grand Chapter, R. A. M. A convention for the purpose of forming a grand chapter of Royal Arch Masons for the state of Minnesota, was held at Masonic hall, in St. Paul, on Saturday, the 17th day of December, A. D. 1859, at 3 o'clock P. M., and the' following proceedings were had : The convention. was called to order by Companion A. T. C. Pierson, M. E. H. P., of Minnesota Royal Arch Chapter No. 1, of St. Paul, and on motion, Com panion A. E. Ames was called to the chair and Companion Geo. W. Prescott was chosen secretary. A committee was appointed to draft a constitution, by-laws and rules of order, to be submitted to the conven tion. This report was adopted and an election held. The following of ficers were elected and installed : A. T. C. Pierson, G. H. P. ; A. E. Ames, G. S. ; William H. Skinner, G. T. ; G. W. Prescott, G. S. ; Rev. D. B. Knickerbacker, G. C. ; Geo. L. Becker, G. C. H. The grand honors were then given and the grand marshal made proclamation that the most Excellent Grand Chapter of Minnesota was duly organized, and the of ficers thereof duly installed. There are now 75 active chapters, with a total membership of about 8,000. First Grand Council The first Grand Council of Royal and Select Masters of the state of Minnesota was held in St. Paul, December 12, 1870, when delegates from three councils met at the hall of St. Paul Council No. 1, to take such measures as were necessary in order to form a Grand Council. The convention was organized by the election of A. E. Ames, president, and William S. Combs, secretary. A constitution was adopted and an elec- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 591 tion of officers was held with the following result: J. C. Terry, M. P. G. M.; A. E. Ames, R. I. G. M.; E. C. Cross, G. P. C. W.; M. W. Getchell, G. T. ; William S. Combs, G. R. The Grand Council of Minne sota was then opened, and Illustrious Companion A. E. Ames installed the officers elect and appointed, D. H. Goodrich acting as marshal. The M. P. G. M. appointed William S. Combs, A. E. Ames and E. C. Cross a committee on foreign correspondence. Commanderies Damascus Commandery No. i. Knights Templar, was organized in July, 1856, with the following charter members : A. T. C. Pierson, An drew J. Whitney, William Paist, Thomas Lombard, Sylvanus Patridge, J. W. Lynde, Alfred E. Ames, Samuel E. Adams and J. W. Boxell. The officers of the commandery now are : E. C, Owen Morris ; generalissimo, Charles P. Montgomery; recorder, C. S. Schurman. Paladin Commandery No. 21, was organized in 1888 and chartered in 1889. Its present officers are: E. C, Arthur Christofferson ; generalis simo, F. H. Parker; recorder, George Herbert. The Grand Commandery of Knights Templar of the state of Minne sota was organized in the city of St. Paul, October 23, 1865, under a war rant of the G. G. encampment of the United States, by H. L. Palmer, grand master Knights Templar. A convention for the purpose of form ing a grand commandery of Knights Templar for the state of Minne sota was held at Masonic hall, in the city of St. Paul, on the above date, when A. E. Ames was called to the chair and E. D. B. Porter appointed secretary. Delegates were present from Damascus Commandery No. 1, St. Paul; Zion Commandery No. 2, Minneapolis; Coeur de Leon Com- n>odery No. 3, Winona, and Mankato Commandery No. 4, Mankato. At the election the officers chosen were : George W. Prescott, St. Paul, G. C; A. E. Ames, Minneapolis, D. G. C; S. Y. McMasters, St. Paul, G. P. ; E. D. B. Porter, Mankato, G. T. ; C. W. Carpenter, St. Paul, G. R. ; J. C. Terry, St. Paul, G. S. B. All the officers present were installed in due form. There are now 33 commanderies in the state with an ag gregate membership of over 4,000. G. F. Dix of St. Paul is grand com mander for 1911-12. Besides the subordinate lodges, councils, chapters and commanderies of the different recognized branches of the Masonic order, there are five organizations of colored masons, who also maintain a grand lodge with headquarters in this city. The Order of the Eastern Star, a woman's auxiliary to the masonic bodies, has six chapters and a grand chapter here which exhibit great zeal and vitality in carrying on their social and charitable work. If it be true that few men know what is good for them until some wise woman tells them, the brethren of this mystic tie ought to get that valuable infor mation in generous supplies from unquestionable sources. The masonic order maintains the "Masonic Union;" a state veteran's association and a relief association. The St. Paul Masonic Temple Asso ciation a year ago completed, at Sixth street and Smith avenue, a beau tiful and costly building, as a common place of meeting and the head quarters of the order's numerous activities. Masonry, in St. Paul, has, at last, a home of its own, and one to be proud of for decades to come. 592 ST. PAUL AND1 VICINITY Pioneer Odd Fellows Lodges The Independent Order of Odd Fellows, generously competes with the Masonic orders for the palm of public usefulness and general popu larity. Odd Fellowship sprang from the human need of sympathy and helpfulness. Among the pioneers who, in early days, made Stillwater their home were a number of Odd Fellows, and they determined, in the latter part of 1848, to form a lodge. It was authorized April 25, 1849, and finally instituted August 15, 1849, with Sylvanus Trask, Henry L. Moss, Charles K. Smith, Bushrod W. Lott and L. B. Wait, nearly all of whom then were or afterwards became residents of St. Paul, as charter members. This became "Minnesota Lodge No. 1." In August, 1849, the Odd Fellows of St. Paul joined in an applica tion for a lodge, the charter of which was granted in the fall of that year and forwarded to Deputy Potts, at Galena. But before he could come to St. Paul navigation closed, arid it was not until May 3, 1850, that St. Paul Lodge No. 2 was instituted. The charter members were B. W. Brunson, John Dunshee, B. W. Lott, John Angdin and J. B. Cole. This lodge has had a continuous existence and its officers are S. R. Har per, N. G., and W. H. Geiselman, R. S. Encampment and Grand Lodge A year later it was deemed advisable to secure an encampment. Several scarlet degree members forwarded the necessary petition to Grand Secretary Ridgely, and in 185 1 the charter was issued. This charter was subsequently burned, and its exact date is not known. Dep uty Grand Sire Potts again visited St. Paul and September 1, 1851, duly instituted Minnesota Encampment No. 1. For sixteen years this was the only incampment in the state, and it was only in 1871 that steps were taken to organize a Grand Encampment when five encampments were represented. There are flow forty-two encampments in the state. The convention to form a Grand Lodge of Odd Fellows in Minne sota was held in St. Paul, September 6, 1852. It was composed of the past grands from Minnesota Lodge No. 1, St. Paul No. 2 and Hennepin Lodge No. 4. The convention was organized by the election of P. G. Trask, of No. 1, as president, and P. G. Brunson, of No. 2, as secretary. The following named past grands took their seats as the representatives from the several lodges: From Minnesota Lodge No. 1, Sylvanus Trask, D. B. Loomis, W. C. Penny, George W. Battles, and N. Greene Wilcox ; from St. Paul Lodge. No. 2, B. W. Lott, Comfort Barnes, B. W. Brun son and S. W. Walker. Resolutions were passed to take proper steps and frame a petition to obtain a charter from the R. W. G. L. of the United States, which was done and the convention adjourned sine die. On May 5, 1853, representatives met to attend the institution of the Grand Lodge of Minnesota. John G. Potts was present as installing of ficer. The Grand Lodge then elected and installed the following officers and thus was duly organized: N. Greene Wilcox, grand master; B. W. Brunson, deputy grand master ; G. B. Dutton, grand warden ; A. Bryant, grand secretary; S. W. Walker, grand treasurer. The Grand Lodge has had a flourishing: career of fifty-nine years and now represents subordi nate lodges in all principal towns. Its officers now are G. M., Peter A. Nelson, Red Wing; G. S., A. L. Bolton, St. Paul ; G. W., Wm. R. Palmer, Northfield. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 593 Other St. Paul Odd Fellows Lodges Germania Lodge No. 18, was instituted August 23, 1867. The follow ing were the first officers and members: John Thorworth, noble grand; Ben Rose, vice grand; H. Habighorst, treasurer; F. Knauf t, secretary. German American Lodge No. 58 was instituted January 10, 1877. Its first elected officers were William Porter, noble grand; W. H. Stormer, V. G. ; C. E. Knauf t, C. S. ; C. F. Hennige, financial secretary ; F. Knauf t, treasurer. Union Lodge No. 48, was instituted January 21, 1875. The follow ing were the charter members who also were the first officers : Alexander Wilson, P. G. ; O. W. Wimpler, N. G. ; William M. Edgecomb, V. G. ; John W. Wood, R. S.; H. T. Sattler, P. S. Excelsior Lodge No. 60 was organized March 26, 1877. The charter odd fellows home, northfield members were R. Schiffman, M. D., John Remick, Walter Scott, H. L. Mills, Thomas Riley, George H. Smith, W. H. Mead, Max Whittleshofer, C. L. Marvin and Fred Sturneyk. The first officers of the lodge were H. L. Mills, N. G. ; W. G. Mead, V. G. ; John Remick, R. S. ; Thos. Riley, P. S. ; Max Whillteshof er, T. The growth of this lodge was unparalleled in the history of the order of this state. It soon numbered over two hun dred members. There are now fourteen Odd Fellows lodges in St. Paul. There are also four encampments and militant associations, and nine lodges of the "Daughters of Rebekah," the ladies' auxiliary to the I. O. O. F. The general relief committee of St. Paul cooperates with the lodges. Mutual Benefit Society The Minnesota Odd Fellows' Mutual Benefit Society was incorporated in 1878. The first officers were Charles D. Strong, president; Ed. A. Stevens, vice president; Dr. R. Schiffman, secretary; Robert A. Smith, 594 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY treasurer, and Joseph Bergfeld, David Ramaley, August Ende, Sher wood Hough, R. Schiffman, H. R. Brill, H. J. Strouse, Joseph Lewis, C. D. Strong, Robert A. Smith, Edward A. Stevens and William Cheney, directors, 'i'he general purpose of the society is the insurance of the lives of its members upon the plan of paying to the representative of every deceased member a certain sum, to be assessed pro rata, according to age, upon other members of said corporation. Odd Fellows Block and Home The Odd Fellows of St. Paul have built and own a fine business block at Fifth and Wabasha streets, the heart of the city. Its lower floors are devoted to stores and offices, and the upper ones to lodge rooms and pub lic halls. Its construction was a notable exhibition of civic enterprise at that period, thirty years ago, which has been fully justified by the conveniences secured, and by the great increase in the value of the property. The Minnesota Odd Fellows Home at Northfield has always been the object of the justifiable pride and fostering care of the order in this city. This splendid benefaction was inaugurated by laying the corner stone of the original building June 16, 1899, the elaborate ceremonies being in charge of Hon G. S. Ives, president of the Home, and Hon. W. C. Gamble, grand master — the former gentleman being the originator and persistent advocate of the enterprise. United Order of Druids The United Order of Druids was introduced into the state (then ter ritory) of Minnesota, August 12, 1856, by the organization of Minne sota Grove No. 1, and was instituted by S. E. Burkhard as the district deputy G. A. of the Grand Grove of the United States, with eleven char ter members. Washington No. 2, of Watertown, was organized with eleven charter members. Schiller Grove No. 3 was instituted September 16, 1869, by J. P. Leitner. North Star Grove No. 4 was organized Sep tember 10, 1870, with twenty-three charter members, and was the first grove to work in the English language in the state. St. Paul Grove No. 7 was organized by members of North Star Grove No. 4, June 28, 1873, with seventeen charter members, and was instituted by S. L. Pollock, N. G. A. There are now five "Groves" and one "Royal Circle" (ladies' auxiliary) in St. Paul. The Grand Grove of the state has its headquar ters in this city. Knights of Pythias Champion Lodge No. 13, Knights of Pythias, was instituted Febru ary 17, 1877, with sixty-one charter members. There are now St. Paul Lodge No. 2 and Okoda Lodge No. 9. There are also the Grand Lodge of the State; the Bureau of Transient Relief; the headquarters of the Uniformed Rank; sections of insurance and endowment rank; the im perial council and a temple of Pythian Sisters — all connected with this aggressive and beneficent order. Ancient Order of United Workmen The Ancient Order of United Workmen was established in St. Paul by the organization in 1876 of Noble Lodge No. 2 and Franklin Lodge No. 3. These were consolidated a few years later into Noble-Franklin ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 595 Lodge No. 2. J. F. Williams was the first master workman of Noble Lodge and W. R. Noble was the first past master workman of Franklin Lodge. Banner Lodge No. 4 and Concordia Lodge No. 5 were also formed in November, 1876. Eureka, Harmonia, St. Paul and Humboldt lodges were organized in 1877. There are now seventeen lodges in the city and four legions of Select Knights ; also ten lodges of the Degree of Honor, the woman's section. The Grand Lodge of Minnesota has its headquarters in St. Paul, corner Jackson and Sixth streets. Its officers are : G. M. W., August F. Floerkey ; Grand Recorder, C. E. Larson ; and receiver, J. F. McGuire. Other Fraternal Bodies St. Paul Lodge No. 59, Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, was organized December 5, 1880. It built a beautiful- hall at Elk's Place, opposite Rice Park, which was badly damaged by fire, but is now being reconstructed and improved. Its officers are: Exalted ruler, James P. Healy; secretary, W. G. Jennings. The Independent Order of Foresters is represented by twelve courts in St. Paul; the Catholic order by fourteen courts, and the "United Order" by five courts. The officers of the High Court of Minnesota, I. O. F. are: H. C. R., F. J. Leonard, Jordan; H. S., A. McDonald, St. Paul. The Sons of Hermann (Hermann's Sohne), a German fraternal order, was founded in this city, October 28, 1870, by the establishment of Wash ington Lodge No. 1, which still maintains a vigorous existence. There are now twelve lodges in the city, including the ladies' societies. The Grand Lodge of Minnesota was organized in 1870. The grand president is Gust Brochert. The national grand president is William Foelsen of St. Paul. The Modern Woodmen of America maintain fourteen camps in St. Paul. There are ten camps of its ladies' auxiliary, The Royal Neigh bors of America. The Woodmen of the World have seven camps in the city, and the women's branch, or Woodmen Circle, has three "groves." There are four lodges of the Independent Order of Good Templars, a fraternal and benevolent association of temperance workers, which, for fifty years has been doing goods deeds of charity and reform, through out the state and nation. The Ancient Order of Hibernians are represented in St. Paul by ten divisions, by the state president, the county president, the A. O. H. Life Insurance Fund of Minnesota and eight divisions of the Ladies Auxiliary to A. O. H. This constitutes a highly efficient working organization capable of accomplishing beneficial results in the line of the special activ ities of this great institution. J. J. Regan of St. Paul is the energetic and popular president of the national organization. The Royal Arcanum has six councils in the city, including one at Merriam Park. The C. S. D. P. J., a Slavonian order, has seven societies here ; also the national headquarters. The Order of Columbian Knights has three lodges, including the Court Imperial No. 30, Daughters of Columbia. The Royal League has two councils and the state headquarters. The following secret or fraternal associations are represented in St. 596 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Paul by one or more local societies and in many cases by the officers of state or national organizations : American Yeomen ; Court of Honor ; Faithful Catholic Shepherds; Fraternal Order of Eagles; United Order of Odd Fellows (colored); Improved Order of Red Men; Knights of Columbus ; Knights and Ladies of the Maccabees ; Loyal Order of Moose ; Modern Brotherhood of America; Modern Samaritans; Mystic Work ers of the World; National Protective Legion; National Union; Loyal Americans; Order of Owls; Sons of Denmark; Sons and Daughters of Norway; Sons of St. George; Tribe of Ben Hur; United Commercial Travelers; and six independent temperance societies. A large majority of these fraternal orders have, besides their systems of immediate relief to needy members, an endowment or insurance fea ture, adapted to the limited financial resources of wage earners. These indemnity sections have been brought within the jurisdiction of the state department, and undergo a careful supervision. They constitute an at tractive savings system, an encouragement to thrift and a provision for the family against the illness or death of the breadwinner. Most of them have been judiciously managed and the total amount of indemnity funds distributed among the beneficiaries every year is a valuable contribution to the welfare of the community. CHAPTER LIV MUSICAL AND SOCIAL ORGANIZATIONS Old St. Paul Musical Society — Singing Societies — St. Paul Sym phony . Orchestra — Mrs. F. H. Snyder — The Schubert Club — Popular Musical Education. — Social Clubs — Commercial Or ganizations An enthusiastic partiality for musical entertainments and for musical culture has always been a characteristic of St. Paul people. So widely has this characteristic been recognized throughout the country that many times this city has been held up as an example for the imitation of others with far greater population and artistic pretensions. While the liberal scope of the purposes of the St. Paul Institute includes musical culture in its curriculum, that feature has not, as yet, become prominent. Pend ing its assumption of the pleasing responsibility, many existing organiza tions consecrated to this art have, along different lines, wrought success fully for its advancement. Old St. Paul Musical Society The old St. Paul Musical Society was long one of the cherished local institutions, with a state-wide reputation, whose series of winter enter tainments during many successive years, rivaled the popular "library lec ture" courses as a perennial attraction. This society was organized in October, 1862, and gave its first concert December 28 of that year at Ingersoll's Hall. The soloists of that concert were G. Hancke, C. Zen- zius and Frank Wood. Among the members who for twenty-five years or more kept up the interest and participated in the performances were George Seibert, Richards Gordon, Dr. T. D. Simonton, Charles Scheffer, R. C. Munger, Charles E. Rittenhouse, S. P. Jennison and many others equally prominent in professional and business circles. Singing, Societies The St. Paul Liederkranz, a German singing society, was organized on the 23d of November, 1867, by the following gentlemen : Joseph Moos- brugger, Carl Rapp, Joseph Sausen, Joseph Deiring, George Reis, John Wagener, Nick Christophel, John Wagener, Jr., Anton Hoenle, B. Or- thaus, Frank Rochler, H. H. Miller, John Schillo, Adam Fetsch and Joseph Hermann. First officers of the society : H. H. Miller, president ; George Reis, vice president ; Jacob Moosbrugger, secretary ; John Wage ner, treasurer. Under the leadership of Mich. Esch, the society received the first prize at the State Saengerfest, held at Minneapolis in 1870. The 597 598 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY prize was also awarded to the society at the State Saengerfest held at Stillwater, in 1877, under the direction of the leader, J. T. Kerker. In 1873 the society procured a very fine banner, made of white and blue silk. It was embroidered in New York and was considered the finest banner in Minnesota. The society paid $250 for the same. Combined with the male chorus of 25 voices was a, mixed chorus consisting of 28 young ladies. After a highly successful career, the Liederkranz was disbanded in 1882 and its membership was merged into other associations, still exist ing. Concordia German Singing Society was organized January 10, 1875 ; its object is social intercourse among its members, and mutual improve ment in vocal music. The founders were Frank Werner, W. Weiss. August Hammer, Julius Schneider, Ed. Penshorn, Peter Thauwald, T. Rohland, F. Roemer, Hermann Schnelle, John Ipps, Robert Schnelle, C. Sachse, C. Schmidt, Robert Lufsky, William Geisenheyner and Henry Niemeyer, the last named being the first director of the society. For twenty-six years, the "Concordia" was under the direction of the same professor, L. W. Harmsen. Arion Singing Society was organized January 1, 1877, with nineteen members, and was incorporated in 1881. The object of the society is the cultivation of the voice and practice of vocal music. Also to provide social and musical entertainments for its members and their families and friends. Seventeen energetic young men were the founders, and this is the list of the original officers: Heinrich Thielen, president; Fritz Ben der, vice president; Joseph Hassler, secretary; Carl Hildebrandt, treas urer; Franz Griebler, director. At the saengerfest in 1879 m Minne apolis, the Arion received the first prize. The society is now under the direction of Prof. Paul Zumbach. The Mozart Club was founded in the spring of 1895 by Peter Joseph Giesen, one of the pioneer German residents of St. Paul and the oldest active singer in the northwest. Giesen founded the society after a suc cessful production of the opera "Zar und Zimmermann." The club made the former Turnhalle its headquarters, baptizing it "Mozart hall." The first officers were P. J. Giesen, honorary president; Emil Traeger, pres ident ; A. J. Lufsky, secretary ; F. Werner, treasurer, and Prof. Maenner, director. "Papa" Giesen is still the head of the organization, and active as ever. "The United Singers of St. Paul," which comprises five leading St. Paul singing societies, was organized March 24, 1907. Its principal pur pose is to appear in large and representative numbers at all great musical occasions. Following are the societies belonging to the United Singers of St. Paul: Arion; Mozart Club; Eintracht; Liedertafel of North St. Paul, and West Side Liedertafel. The first officers were : Otto W. Roh land, president ; William Conradi, vice president ; C. F. Trettin, secretary, and Anton Gleissner, treasurer. The United Singers took an active part in the festivities attending the dedication of the Auditorium. The organization was also represented by an active delegation at the unveiling of the Schiller monument at Como Park, under the leadership of Prof! Claude Madden. The United Sing ers participated in the various festivities at the Auditorium during fair week, 1908, and take part in the celebrations of the annual German days in St. Paul. Last year the society went in a body to Omaha on the in vitation of the Commercial Club and other associations of this city, and were successful in procuring the saengerfest of 1912 for St. Paul — a ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 599 festival occasion which brought many thousands of visitors, filled a joy ous week with uplifting exercises, and added to the city's fame for musical culture. The present officers are Anton Gleissner, president; August Staak, vice president; C. F. Trettin, secretary; and Ernst Hadlich, treas urer. The Dania Singing Society meets every Monday evening in Vasa hall, 254 East Seventh street ; the Fram Singing Society meets every Wed nesday evening at the same place; the Emanuel Mixed Choir meets every Friday evening on Goff avenue; the Normanna Society meets every Thursday evening, at Vasa hall. St. Paul Symphony Orchestra The organization and successful operation of these various musical societies of the past, have prepared St. Paul to securely embark on the wave of musical enthusiasm flooding the country in the last decade. While still much smaller than many of the cities that do not aspire to half its artistic ambitions, it has firmly established at least the beginnings of practically every sort of musical institution known to the metropolitan cities of the world. The maintenance of a symphony orchestra is apt to be a high-water mark in the cultural aspiration of a community, and four years ago St. Paul decided that it could and should support its own or chestra. So, in the fall of 1907, a group of citizens planned the organiza tion, engaged as director Chevalier E. B. Emanuel, and proceeded to enjoy St. Paul's first season of home-made symphony concerts, embel lished by the performances of world-famous soloists. The experiment proved successful, and the bi-weekly concerts came to be looked upon more as necessities than luxuries. A bar of Haydn- makes the whole world kin. The music for which people had hitherto- to wait until some orchestra condescended to come out of the east was- now being provided in sufficiently good form to make them feel that it was indispensable. Following two seasons under the baton of Emanuel,, the directorship was given to Walter Henry Rothwell, a man of English parentage on one side of his house, but with a Viennese education and musical training. He made his mark at the Vienna conservatory before starting out as a conductor, although he is still a young man. Mr. Roth well has completed his second season with the St. Paul Symphony Orchestra, and has led an organization of some seventy-two men through the performance of the world's greatest orchestral masterpieces. Ap pearing at the concerts have been singers and instrumentalists of inter national reputation — grand opera stars from European capitals and the best American musicians to be obtained. On March 25, 1912, the or chestra left St. Paul for an extensive "tour of the provinces." The trip lasted six weeks, and about forty towns were visited in Minnesota, the Dakotas, Montana and Canada. The concerts were received with enthu siasm everywhere. The officers of the association for 1911-12 are: L. W. Hill, president ; C. O. Kalman, vice president ; J. L. Mitchell, sec retary and treasurer; Edmund A Stein, manager. Mrs. F. H. Snyder There has been no more active agent for the artistic welfare of St, Paul than Mrs. F. H. Snyder, one of the best known impresarios in the United States, who has kept in constant touch with the world of music 600 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY in its best phases. At its installation she was business manager of the symphony orchestra, but relinquished the office later to devote her time exclusively to managing the other numerous events which go to make up a city's full musical life. In April, 1910, she undertook the most im portant venture of her local career, namely, the booking of the Metro politan Opera Company of New York for six performances in St. Paul. And here the importance of the Auditorium as an adjunct to musical activity made itself felt. The operas given were "Lohengrin," "Madam Butterfly," "Haensel and Gretel," "Aifa," "Pagliacci," and "The Bar tered Bride," under the direction of Arturo Toscanini. Financially and artistically the brief season was an immense success, and a season of opera for the following year was practically assured at that time. Sub sequently caihe the establishment of permanent grand opera in Chicago, and it was from Chicago that this city had its season of opera in January, 191 1, when, under the baton of Cleofonte Campanini, five performances were given, including "Thais," "Tales from Hoffman" "Carmen," "The Girl of the Golden West" and "Louise." A brilliant close to the series was the concert in which the entire chorus of the company, several of the principals, and the orchestra under Campanini participated. The Schubert Club The whole city is filled with admiring appreciation of the work done by the Schubert Club, composed entirely of women, in promoting the musical culture of the people. With a membership of four hundred, it aims not only to give fortnightly recitals, with occasional special concerts for the exploiting of outside and distinguished talent, but maintains a student section from which many gifted young women have been chosen and sent abroad for tuition. For a quarter of a century this club has held the city true to the musical compass. It has united musicians from every quarter in promoting the musical interests of the city, and it has united them in that democratic sympathy which must always sustain music if any true significance is to pertain. It has never held other than the highest standards; if St. Paul is, as all musicians from abroad declare, one of the most musical communities in the country, it is largely because this club has established critical standards for itself, for the city, and has been discriminating at all times and appreciative at the right time. The officers of the Schubert Club for 1911-12 are: President, Mrs. W. S. Briggs; vice president, Mrs. C. E. Furness; recording secretary, Mrs. F. S. Blodgett; assistant recording secretary, A. F. Goodrich; cor responding secretary, Miss Gertrude Hall; assistant corresponding sec retary, Mrs.-M. D. Munn; treasurer, Miss Cornelia Lusk; librarian, Mrs. J. W. Thompson; assistant librarian, Miss Elsie M. Shawe; federation secretary, Mrs. D. S. Elliott; guest secretary, Mrs. Benjamin Gorham. Popular Musical Education Another phase of St. Paul's musical situation is that of musical train ing in the public schools. For a number of years it has been in charge of Miss Elsie M. Shawe, who has become known throughout the country as a remarkably able supervisor, a fact in testimony of which is her elec tion as president of the music section of the National Educational Asso ciation. Among the many smaller bodies of musicians may be mentioned the ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 601 string quartet composed of members of the Symphony Orchestra, which gave a series of six fortnightly recitals last winter, and although their programs contained chamber music of the strictly classical sort, there never was any difficulty in filling the hall. St. Paul boasts at least four colleges and schools of music ; numerous vocal and instrumental quartets, and a long list of teachers, many of them with wide reputations. If the purposes of its chief promoters are fulfilled, the free student bureau just organized by the Schubert Club will be the entering wedge of a new musical era in this part of the country, and finally, in all Am erica. The object of the bureau is to meet the demands for recitals and concerts throughout the state and secure for the musicians enrolled in the bureau, opportunities for semi-professional work. In a large sense it will be club work, to borrow a term from university extension. The scheme embodies a more intimate relationship between the musicians and the clubs. Without the sound of trumpets, rather with a steady organ point, does the Schubert Club continue its work, and all the community is effected by the overtones. The Sunday afternoon concerts, given by the Symphony Orchestra at the Auditorium are a highly appreciated feature. The library of the orchestra is rich with musical works which have endeared themselves to the public in the same way whereby a popular song becomes common prop erty of the singing multitude. No one who attends these afternoon con certs need suspect that he will be called upon to listen to music which, by its discordant notes, will widen the horizon of horror and add to the aggregate of despair. He will have an opportunity to listen to music which is familiar. Whether these concerts are attended for pleasure or for education, the program can be depended upon; and musicians and the merely musical can be certain of that beloved popular music, which, like nonsense now and then, is relished by the best of men. St. Paul has an opportunity to gather in great numbers at an hour which is generally void of other engagement, and make these concerts a tribute to good music, and to the organization which is so capable of giving good music. The priceless value of the Auditorium, in affording opportunities for the musical culture of all the people, is less fully appreciated by our citi zens, than by observing visitors. Speaking of this great institution, the president of the Southern California Music Teachers' Association, so journing for a few days in St. Paul, said, to a reporter: "It might be the means of educating the great mass of the people along any lines you wish, but you don't take advantage of it any more than does any other American city. If you'd run it like any business, if you'd go to the peo ple and say, 'Here, we want to make some money. We'll give you fine concerts at ten and fifteen cents admission, and we'll use the money to pay the interest on the investment and in spending it so we can give the city better music, better art, better pictures, little bits of statuary for the parks, and such things ; you'd be using it right. The common people of America are the ones who are going to make the art and the music of this nation, not the few wealthy people, and when a city can get this class of people spending a few cents each week in its auditorium, the art and musical education of the American people is assured." The opening of a music school at the Neighborhood House by the Schubert Club is an undertaking characteristic of the club. Probably in no part of the city has the opportunity for music study been so limited. Certainly in no part of the city is music better appreciated. It is largely a foreign population, and one of much energy and ambition which centers 602 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY about the Neighborhood House. In the public schools near that locality it is recognized that music is the first study the children delight in or comprehend; it is the language they can understand and speak before they have lost the accent of their mother tongue. Among the adult resi dents a similar delight is felt in music, a similar consciousness that here is something which is the same in America as in the old country. As a means in "naturalization," music holds an important place. The Schubert Club has commanded the services of a number of excellent teachers for the school at the Neighborhood House. These teachers find that no other pupils reward them more abundantly. That a recognition of St. Paul's eminence in musical culture has pene trated even into New England is shown by comments of the reliable and conservative Springfield, (Mass.,) Republican as follows: "Last year St. Paul spent for music over $130,000. Of this $65,000 went for the local orchestra; grand opera took $45,000. The larger concerts cost $16,500 and minor receipts account for the remaining $500. It is an ex cellent showing. Is there an eastern town that can match it? In St. Paul, of course, as elsewhere, the burden falls upon a minority. The number of music lovers is estimated at 8,000, which would make the share of each $16.25. For this one may buy a number of tickets, though not so many as a music lover would like. But 8,000 is a large proportion. By the same ratio New York should have nearly 190,000, which is far in excess of the fact. The expenditures of New York for music, as for all other luxuries, is enormous; does it come to sixty cents per capita, or $3,000,000 a season? Whatever the total, it devolves upon a relatively small group — opera at prices far beyond the purse of the multitude ac counts for a large part. In St. Paul, as in many western musical towns, patronage seems of a sane and widely diffused character, which speaks well for the state of culture." Social Clubs The oldest and most important of the social clubs of St. Paul is the Minnesota Club, organized in 1870 by the prominent citizens of that day, and maintaining a prosperous career from the beginning. Its first home was in the former Bartlett Presley mansion on Eighth street, near Sib ley. In 1880, the building specially constructed for it, at the corner of Fourth and Cedar streets was occupied. It has since been enlarged, but has been outgrown. Late in 191 1 the Minnesota Club definitely decided to build, in 1913, a new club house on the old Metropolitan hotel site. The club further more gave the governing board full power to act. The members of the board are Jule M. Hannaford, Theodore A. Schulze, John Townsend, Haldor Sneve, John J. Watson, Arthur B. Driscoll, Robert I. Farrington, George L. Bunn, Jared How, Edward N. Saunders, Frank Schlick, Charles W. Ames, Charles W. Gordon, John N. Jackson, Charles W. Bunn, James T. Clark, James J. Hill, Christopher D. O'Brien, Pierce Butler, James H. Skinner and Frederick B. Lynch. The Minnesota Club bought the Metropolitan hotel in 1909 for $54- 000. Its frontages are 198 feet on Washington street, 76 on Third and 100 feet on Fourth. The new club house will occupy this entire area and will cost approximately $150,000. The money will be raised by the sale of bonds to members of the club and the sale of the present site, which has a market value of about $75,000. The members of the club have re- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 603 alized for some years that their present quarters are too small for the constantly growing demands put upon them. The subject of removal has been carefully considered with the result that the old hotel site was finally chosen as the most available to be found. The Minnesota Club now num bers 500 members. John J. Watson is president and John Townsend, sec retary and treasurer. The Town and Country Club organized December 12, 1887, has about 800 members. It occupies a tract beautifully located on the brow of the Mississippi bluffs, at the Marshall avenue bridge, and. is thus of convenient access to members in both St. Paul and Minneapolis, while having all the charms of quiet and retirement. The river front is a primeval forest ; further back are many acres of lawn, with golf links, tennis courts etc. The officers are Sherman Finch, president; F. W. Bobbette, secretary and treasurer. ELKS CLUB HOUSE The Minnesota Boat Club was organized March 1, 1870 and incor porated December 18, 1873. Norman Wright was its first president. Its general objects is physical culture and practice of the art of rowing and sailing in boats. It obtained title to Raspberry island in the Missis sippi river under the Wabasha street bridge. Club houses were erected, boats purchased, and all the paraphernalia of a well-equipped institution were provided. Annual regattas were long maintained and the club has won many handsome prizes in boat races, competing with picked crews in all parts of the country. Present officers are: James D. Denegre, president; Charles L. Sommers, vice president; George L. Reimbold, secretary; C. P. Davis, treasurer. The Automobile Club of St. Paul has a large membership and main tains a sumptuous club house at White Bear lake, with ample facilities for entertainments, etc. The Norden Club maintains elegant quarters, with all club accessories, at the corner of Jackson and Fifth streets. It has a large membership of Scandinavian-Americans and has had a career of uninterrupted pros- 604 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY perity. J. A. Lagerman is president; S. B. Molander, secretary and Victor Engeman, treasurer. The University Club now located on Western avenue, corner of Ash land avenue, is building new quarters on Sumrnit avenue, at the head of Ramsey street. It is a vigorous organization of young men. President, E. A. Young, Jr. ; secretary, E. K. Brennan. The Elks' Club has a fine, new building on Rice Park. The White Bear Yacht Club of St. Paul maintains a club house at Dellwood, and the large fleet of yachts and launches owned by its mem bers engage in many spirited contests during the boating season. Com modore, O. L. Taylor; vice commodore, J. G. Ordway; secretary C. W. Griggs. The West Side Club is located at the corner of State and Congress streets. G. F. Dix, president; W. S. Wright, secretary; Henry Martin, treasurer. Musical clubs, literary clubs, church clubs and womens' clubs are enumerated in appropriate chapters of this work. The two leading per manent political clubs, both Republican are the Roosevelt and the Lin coln. The Ramsey county Afro-American Club and the Colored Gopher Base Ball Club, represent the colored element. Other clubs, with more or less social activities, or devoted to athletics, sports and other diversions are: Ingleside Club; High School Teachers Club; Bookkeepers Club; West Publishing Company Employe's Club; Humor Bowling Club ; Island Pass Club ; Mohawk La Crosse Club ; Nor wegian Club; Nushka Curling Club; St. Paul Chess and Whist Club; St. Paul La Crosse Club; St. Paul Rod and Gun Club and the Transporta tion Club. Social Features of Commercial Clubs Early in 1912, the United Association of Commercial Travellers re moved from the quarters in the Lowry building which it had occupied four years, to the Ryan Hotel. In this eligible position, the 1,000 members of this wide-awake and aggressive organization prosecuted its numerous activities, while maintaining some of the attributes of club life. This was preliminary to the purchase and fitting up of the permanent home in the Harris residence property, 117 College avenue, occupied as a lodge hall, offices and club rooms, in September 1912. This new home is considered one of the most desirable pieces of club property in St. Paul. The house is well built and elaborately finished inside. On the first floor the ceil ings are twelve feet high and eleven feet on the second floor. There are eight fire places. The house is so arranged on the first floor that double doors can be thrown open and the entire floor made into one room. The grounds surrounding the new home are surmounted with Lake Superior red sand stone and covered with trees and shrubbery. A cement drive way leads to a side entrance to the house. The location is near the street railway and only a few moments' walk from the downtown dis trict. The St. Paul lodge was organized December 28, 1893, with twenty charter members. It now has a membership of 1,047 m good standing. The St. Paul Commercial Club, by its closer affiliation with the Asso ciation of Commerce, will doubtless in the future devote even more atten tion, than in the past, to its social and gastronomic features. With an increase of over 300 members late in 191 1, and a removal to splendid ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ¦ 605 quarters in the new building at Fourth and Wabasha streets, September 1912, the Commercial Club enters upon an enlarged sphere- of useful ness as to those features which must increasingly emphasize its value to the city and the state. The headquarters of the Club, on the eleventh and twelfth floors of the latest of St. Paul's office buildings, are among the most complete in the West. The main banquet room is in the southwest section of the eleventh floor. It is finished in dull green and the scheme of illumination is beautiful with pedestal and inverted ceiling lights. A pretty tea room is prepared for the ladies. It is white and decorated in the Japanese effect. A room adjoining the banquet room on the north will be the main library and is finished in dull Spanish leather. The lobby is finished in what is known as ivory, trimmed with silver gray, with the inverted lights. North of the lobby on the eleventh floor is another pretty room finished in Louis XIV style to be used for a recep tion room for visiting women. In the northeast section of the eleventh floor is the rest room for the members. This is a comfortable room for lounging. In the southeast section of this floor is the card room with paneled walls and subdued decorations. The twelfth floor is occupied by the main dining room, in the west end of the building. On the south side of the room are three smaller rooms divided by rolling doors, so that they may be used for private parties or may be thrown open to connect with the main room in case of necessity. On the north side of the room are five stalls which may be used for the same purpose. The billiard room occupies the east section of the floor on the north side and contains ten tables. The kitches is on the south side of the twelfth floor and is a model of its kind, both for equipment and for sani tary arrangements. There are electric elevators, one of which will be used for express service during rush hours. A single incident may be given as illustrating one measure of the usefulness of the club's social functions. Mr. Cal. S. Stone, chairman of the local committee on entertainment for the national convention of general passenger agents of railways, wrote the following, after receiv ing more than fifty letters from the visitors all speaking in the highest terms of their entertainment, and praising St. Paul as an ideal place in which to hold conventions. This in itself is important as these men are very prominent in routing and directing tourists and convention travel: "St. Paul, Nov. 13, 191 1. W. L. Seeley, Secretary, "Dear Sir : — On behalf of the local committee in charge of the arrange ments and entertainment of the General Passenger Agents Association, upon the occasion of their annual convention in this city in September, I wish to thank you and the officers of your club for the assistance ex tended to the local committee. The convention was a grand success and I beg to submit to you some of the letters received from our guests. They certainly appreciate the efforts of the citizens of St. Paul to make their visit a pleasant memory. Again thanking the Commercial Club, its officers and members for their great assistance, I am, with profound gratitude and high appreciation, Yours sincerely, Cal E. Stone." 606 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Ben Johnson's definition of a club, given many generations since, as "a company of good fellows, meeting under certain conditions," accur ately applies to several of the loyal and hospitable organizations of St. Paul, and to none more so than to the Commercial Club, which, in its social functions contributes to the best expressions of the city's aspira tions and ideals. CHAPTER LV. THE NATIONAL GUARD First Military Organization — Beginnings of the National Guard — The Permanent National Guard — The St. Paul Companies — The National Guard's War Service — Past Reputation Well Sustained — The National Guard Armory. Under the territorial government of Minnesota little attention was paid to the organized militia. This is somewhat remarkable considering the fact that the second territorial governor, Willis A. . Gorman, had been before his appointment to that office, major of an Indiana regiment in the Mexican War, where he made so fine a record that he was sent to Congress from that state immediately on his return; he was afterwards colonel of the First Minnesota Infantry and a brigader general in the Union Army during the war of the Rebellion. His military instincts and tendencies were thereby fully demonstrated, but as territorial governor he probably found a sufficient field for his activities in civil administra tion, with all the complicated interests therein involved. The Pioneer Guard, an independent company and the first in the territory, was organ ized in April 1856. Alex Wilkin was captain, and it became Co. "A" of the First Minnesota Infantry in April 1861. First Militia Organization The first militia organization of the state was established by general orders from the adjutant general's office dated October 1, 1858, which were based upon the statute passed at the session of the Legislature im mediately preceding that date. Under this order, the state was divided into six divisions, twelve brigades and twenty-eight regiments, while the whole number of citizens at that time liable to be enrolled for military duty, as appears from a later return was 23,972. The theory of this statute, passed in 1858, was simply to allow such citizens as were capable of bearing arms the privilege of organizing into companies of volunteer militia, uniform themselves and drill at discre tion, all without compensation or other public inducements. Those who could thus organize under the law were to comprise the active military force of the state, and be first liable to do military duty. At the time the law was passed, and until the outbreak of the war in 1861, there was little or no military spirit among the people. Hence, when the war began it was found that the militia organization of the state, the same as that established by the general orders of 1858, com prised 147 general staff and field officers, with about 200 privates en- 607 608 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY rolled in the active companies. The number of men who would have responded to a call for any duty, was doubtless considerably less than the number of field and other commissioned officers. The organization was merely a form, without life, substance or capacity for anything beyond the withdrawal of arms and public property from the arsenal and placing it beyond the reach of the state officers. The early legislators of the country had learned from history and observation that standing armies had little sympathy with the mass of the people and easily became the instrument of oppression in the hands of unscrupulous public officials. The theory then adopted was to leave the military power with the people, so that the armies of the country, coming from them and being a part of them, would act in concert with them and not become the instruments of oppression. But this theory carried to an extreme, through negligence and inattention of state authori ties found the people of Minnesota, on the occurrence of the great emer gency of civil war,, practically powerless to meet it with any organized force. Through the energy of Governor Alexander Ramsey and his adjutant general, John B. Sanborn, the emergency was met, notwith standing the defective laws, and the process of organizing volunteer com panies and regiments ab initio went rapidly forward as narrated in the chapter devoted to that subject. Meantime, General Sanborn, an able and industrious St. Paul lawyer, prepared a new militia law and recom mended that the Governor call the attention of the Legislature to the matter, submitting the draft thus prepared as the foundation for entirely new legislation on the subject. The Legislature emasculated General Sanborn's proposed enactment, and no really effective law for a militia organization was put on the statute books for more than twenty years. During the Sioux outbreak of 1862, various independent companies were formed for immediate service against the Indians, but their organization was crude and their tenure was never intended to be permanent. For some years after the close of the war for the Union, in 1865, the military spirit of Minnesota seemed to be in abeyance. The nation had seen and heard enough of drills and marches — somewhat too much of battles and slaughter. Only a few, even of the returned soldiers, cared to form companies ; still fewer cared to go into training camps, or engage in target practice. The Adjutant General of the State was made ex- officio, bounty and pension attorney for gratuitous service to war claim ants, also secretary of the board of trustees of soldiers' orphans, etc. These purely civil functions monopolized the attention of successive in cumbents of that office, hence military affairs were left the operation of the law of natural selection and the survival of the fittest. Each Governor appointed a nominal "staff" of generals, colonels and majors, but prob ably between 1866 and 1880, not one in twenty of these even procured a uniform, — howbeit many of them clung tenaciously to their parchment titles. Beginnings of the National Guard During this period there were, however, almost continuously military companies in St. Paul, and in other towns, and for a limited period, be tween 1870 and 1873, there was a serious effort at effective organization. This effort was largely due to the zeal and energy of Col. A. P. Connolly of St. Paul, who still survives, an honored resident of Minneapolis, and ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 609 the senior surviving officer on the "retired list" of the Minnesota National Guard. Col. Connolly, born in Sheffield N. B. Canada, 1836, came to Minne sota in 1857, and became identified with its newspapers. He served three years during the Civil and Indian wars ; mustered out as Adjutant of the 6th Minnesota Infantry August 22, 1865. In 1870 he began to study the possibilities of gathering the independent military companies of the city and state into regimental organizations. He found in St. Paul five companies, acting independently, and designated as follows: The Governor's Guards — Capt. Chas. S. Bunker. The Emmet Guards — Capt. John C. Deveraux. The Turner Rifles — Capt. Albert Scheffer. The Scandinavian Guards — Capt. J. A. Vanstrum. The High School Cadets — Capt. John A. Berkey. Horace Austin was Governor and Commander-in-chief, with Mark D. Flower as Adjutant General. They listened with interest to Con nolly's suggestion that these companies, with the "Irish Rifles" at Minne apolis, be made the nucleus of a regiment. Accordingly, on Dec; 9, 1870, the first regiment "Minnesota Enrolled Militia" was formed, and A. P. Connolly was commissioned as lieutenant colonel. On May 28, 1871, a full list of ten companies having been secured, A. P. Connolly was com missioned colonel. The term "militia" did not sound good either to the commander or the company officers, all of whom, with many of the enlisted men had seen actual war service. Accordingly, at Col. Connolly's suggestion, the desig nation "national guard" was adopted — the first use of that term in Minne sota, if not in the country. Capt. Vanstrum's company, for some reason, failed to muster, and the high school cadets were too young. But by "general orders No. 2," dated September nth, 1871, signed M. D. Flower Adjutant General, it was announced that "the first regiment Minnesota National Guards, commanded by Col. A. P. Connolly, is hereby reorgan ized." The St. Paul Companies were named as : Co. "A" Capt. C. S. Bunker ; Co. "B" Capt. A. Scheffer ; Co. "D" Capt. J. C. Deveraux. The remain ing seven companies were located respectively at Austin, Mantorville, Red Wing, Lake City, Stillwater, Kasson and Dodge Center. By the same order, a second regiment was constituted, with Lieut. Col. H.'G. Hicks of Minneapolis in command, with eight companies named, three located at Minneapolis, and the others at Cambridge, New Ulm, (Jos. Bobleter, captain), St. Cloud (L. W. Collins, captain), Anoka and Cor dova. The first regiment with its St. Paul colonel and its three St. Paul companies made the best showing of efficiency, but labored under great difficulties. Col. Connolly and his officers and men had to pay their own expenses — armory rent, uniforms, music etc. All they received from the constituted authorities was the guns and accoutrements thereunto pertaining. Neither state nor nation contributed a dollar in cash. There was no money to pay for mobilizing the regiment or going into camp. But for several years the companies in their respective towns kept up a good state of discipline, maintained regular drills, and justified their existence. The three St. Paul companies worked together in harmony, and frequently appeared under command of Col. Connolly in reviews, in battalion drills, and in public processions on memorial day, etc. They 610 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY were once reviewed by Maj.-Gen. W. S. Hancock U. S. A. and staff, who highly complimented the colonel on their soldierly appearance. On the occasion of the threatened attack by Indians at Brainerd, in 1 87 1, the three companies were sent, by order of Gov. Austin, in com mand of Col. Connolly to the scene of impending hostilities. They were ordered out at 8 130 P. M., and entrained at 8 o'clock the next morning, with only 6 men missing. They proceeded to Brainerd, sent the In dians back to their reservation, restored confidence to the settlers and performed a real public service. This expedition was referred to as "the blueberry war" because the belligerent reds were engaged in berry pick ing when they made the hostile demonstrations. The good accomplished was always gratefully acknowledged by the people benefited. This regiment constituted the real beginnings of the present splendid national guard system of Minnesota and will be so credited by impartial history. It could not be permanently maintained owing to the lack of funds, and the absence of other inducements afterward offered for state military service. But the officers and men deserve praise for their self- sacrificing efforts, and the patriotic spirit displayed. Col. Connolly sus tained his rank until he resigned in 1881, and 30 years later he was awarded the ten-year service medal, by Adjutant General F. B. Wood, on being placed on the roll of retired officers of the Minnesota national guard. The Permanent National Guard The National Guard of the State of Minnesota as organized under the present law, consists of three regiments of infantry and one battalion of artillery, a total of something over 2,000 officers and men. The Ad jutant General is Brig. Gen. Fred. B. Wood appointed Jan. 28, 1905, after more than twenty years service in the National Guard, including a captaincy in the 12th Minnesota Volunteers during the Spanish-' American war. The term of enlistment is three years. Every company or battery is required by law to make at least thirty company drills or parades each year, exclusive of camp and actual service. Ten days is the time alloted for the annual encampment on the state grounds at Lake City. Every officer and enlisted man, during his term of service, is exempt from duty as juryman in any court of the state; and every person who shall have received an honorable discharge after a continuous service of five years or more is thereafter exempt from such jury duty. The city of Lake City, in 1891, donated to the State of Minnesota ground on which to hold the annual encampment of the National Guard, upon con dition that the same be used for thirty years for the purpose of such en campment. It is stated that in 1879, omv one thoroughly equipped company re mained in the service to represent the organized militia, of the State of Minnesota, — this company being located at New Ulm, and having been kept alive largely through the zeal of its captain, Joseph Bobleter, a reg ular soldier during the Civil war, and afterwards Colonel and Brigadier General of the State Guard. In 1879 an^ x88o several companies were organized and legislation was sought that would give proper encourage ment to those who might be willing to devote their time and money to building up a force that would do credit to the commonwealth. Hence, in 1881. the Legislature appropriated $5,000 to the support of the Na tional Guard, and the governor was authorized to make a- battalion forma- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 611 tion at his pleasure. The result of this legislation was the formation, in February 1882, under Governor L. F. Hubbard, (himself a disting uished soldier of the Civil War, and destined later to become a Brigadier- General in the Spanish- American War,) of the first Battalion, consisting of four companies, previously known as the Minneapolis Light Infantry, Capt. J. P. Rea; the Minneapolis Zouaves, Capt. A. A. Ames; the St. Paul Guard, Capt. W. B. Bend, and the Allen Light Guard of St. Paul, Capt. E. S. Bean. These companies were designated respectively as "A"' "B," "C," "D." At an election for a battalion commander, to rank as major, Capt. W. B. Bend was unanimously elected and duly commissioned. Another company was raised in St. Paul by Capt. J. P. Moore, and was designated Company "E." Governor Hubbard then ordered the election of a Lieut.-Colonel of the battalion and Major Bend was elected, the office of Major being filled by the election of B. N. Gil- more, of Minneapolis. In July 1882, the battalion encamped at White Bear Lake, and the men received their first experience in field duties. Other companies were soon organized at Fergus Falls, Red Wing and Litchfield. This made eight companies and the Legislature of 1883 hav ing passed a new military code and increased the appropriations for the National Guard, the first battalion became the First Regiment and elected William B. Bend, Colonel. In March, of that year, Company "I" was organized at Minneapolis and Company "K" at Stillwater, when, for the first time, the regiment had its full quota of ten companies. In July 1883 the regiment encamped for a week at White Bear Lake and in 1884 it encamped for the same period at Lake Calhoun. When the state prison at Stillwater was burned in 1884, a part of the regiment was ordered on duty to guard the convicts and to furnish detachments to take charge of prisoners temporarily transferred to county jails. This was its first active and useful public duty, which was per formed to the entire satisfaction of the authorities. In October, 1892, the full regiment took part in the inauguration exercises connected with the Columbian Exposition at Chicago, where its splendid appearance won honorable mention from the Chicago press and it was given special prom inence by General Miles in the building where the exercises were held. In 1895 the Roster of the field officers of the regiment was as fol lows: C. McReeve, Colonel; W. G. Bronson, Lieut.-Colonel; W. W. Price, and F. W. Ames, Majors. The St. Paul Companies We now come to the more detailed history of the St. Paul companies, connected with this regiment. In March 1880, a movement was inaugur ated by^Mr. E. S. Chittenden and Mr. Charles S. Bunker, who had been members of the National Guard in New York before their removal to Minnesota, for the organization of a company in St. Paul. The pre liminary meeting was held at the Chamber of Commerce, March 18, 1880. William B. Bend was elected chairman of this meeting and Mr. Chittenden, Secretary. A committee of six appointed to consider the proposed organization and report at a future meeting. This committee consisted of Mr. Bunker, Mr.' Chittenden, Mr. Thomas Cochran, Mr. Oxley, and Mr. Larkin. The result of subsequent meetings was the formation of a military company to be known as the "St. Paul Guards," of which C. S. Bunker was elected captain; W. B. Bend, first lieutenant vol. n— 1 1 612 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY and W. H. Oxley, second lieutenant; F. P. Wright, afterward captain of this company and colonel of the regiment, was appointed first sergeant, and the company began its drills early in April, 1880, in Pfeiffer Hall. The company adopted a full dress uniform in which it made its first parade in August, 1881. It also took part in the funeral obsequies of President Garfield. The St. Paul Guards originally designed to be an independent citi zens' corps, and so maintained efficiently until the organization of the Minnesota National Guard, then took its place as Company "C" in the First Battalion and afterward in the First Regiment. The organization of the St. Paul Guard was speedily followed in this city by that of the Allen Guard (Company "D"), the Emmet Light Artillery (Company "E"), and by various other companies throughout the state, the military enthusiasm of our citizens having received a new impulse. From its first organization, special attention was paid by Company "C" to securing members of high character, with the result of maintain ing the company as a first-class military organization, and making it suc cessful in its undertakings, both of a military and social nature. The company took a leading part in procuring the erection of the armory in St. Paul and contributed its full share to the cost thereof. The company claims to have contributed from its membership more commissioned offi cers and of higher rank, than all other companies in the State of Minne sota. When called upon for active service, as it was on several occasions during the first ten years of its existence, Company "C" faithfully and promptly responded with full ranks and ready for any duty. In July, 1890, when a hasty order from the Governor issued at 7 o'clock in the evening, called for the assembly of three companies in St. Paul to go to Mora, Minnesota, to protect settlers from a threatened raid by the Chippewa Indians, Company "C" had 73 men out of 76 at the Armory at 11 o'clock, all ready for duty. Changes in the command of the company were necessitated by pro motions, etc. The successive captains up to 1890 were — C. S. Bunker, W. B. Bend, F. P. Wright, William Dawson, Jr., Sheldon Blakely, A. E. Chantler, and H. C. Braden. At the last named date S. G. Iverson was first lieutenant and R. B. Ris ing, second lieutenant. Among the non-commissioned officers of the orig inal company in 1880 were Thomas Cochran, W. N. Becker, C. P. Marvin, Herman Scheffer, T. R. Forbes, and Walter Hewitt. Among the original privates enrolled were E. S. Chittenden, Sherman Finch, H. H. Horton, Crawford Livingston, Joseph McKee, S. B. Walsh, J. R. Walsh, and J. W. Willis. Company "D" of the First Regiment was organized as the Allen Light Guard of St. Paul, February 10, 1881. It was mustered into the state service April 24, 1881, and at that time numbered 47 men. Capt. Charles A. Bigler, was first chosen commander, but resigned July 12, 1881, and was succeeded by Capt. E. S. Bean, whose long and distin guished service with this company gave him a state-wide and nation-wide reputation. The company was from the first zealous and conspicuous in the matter of discipline and drill. It participated in numerous competitive contests, among which the following may be enumerated : At Faribault, Minnesota, July 4, 1882, it defeated Company "B" of the Second Regi ment and won the first prize, $200 in gold. At Minneapolis August 28. 1883, Company "D" was awarded first prize of $400, defeating three companies of its own regiment. On June 14, 1884, the company met ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 613 the Natiorial Rifles of Washington, D. C, at Hotel Lafayette, Lake Min- netonka, and was awarded the prize after a very close contest. At a great national tournament held in Dubuque, Iowa, one week later, Com pany "D" was awarded fourth prize, defeating again the National Rifles and winning 1,663 out of a" possible 2,000 points. In 1887 Company "D" participated in the international drill at Washington, D. C, com peting with 134 companies of the National Guard from different states and coming out second best with but a few points between it and the first company. It secured $2,500 cash as the second prize, that sum being placed in the hands of Capt. Bean by Lieut.-Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, commanding the United States Army. The reception tendered Com pany "D" on its return to St. Paul was one of the memorable events in the history of the city. To Capt. Bean belongs the credit for having brought the company through their various contests so successfully. His activities extended beyond his own company and embraced the entire state organization within its scope. He held first place in the hearts of his fellow guardsmen and fellow citizens for many years. He served two terms as sheriff of Ramsey County and made for himself in the Philip pines as major of his regiment, transformed into the 13th Minnesota Infahtry Volunteers, a highly creditable record. In 1892 this company planned a trip to the Yellowstone Park. There being no annual encampment that year 50 men under the command of Capt. Bean left St. Paul August 16th, over the Northern Pacific Rail road, disembarking at Cinnabar, where the march was taken up and dur ing the following 1 1 days the company covered 200 miles on foot through the Park. Returning, the company reached St. Paul, August 29th, hav ing traveled 2,000 miles during its trip. In 1895 the strength of the company was 77 men including officers. E. S. Bean was captain ; Charles E. Metz, first lieutenant ; and M. L. Mer rill, second lieutenant. Company "E" was organized in St. Paul in the fall of 1881. It waited two months after its original formation before electing officers. J. P. Moore drilled the company from the outset and as a partial acknowledg ment of his ability, he was elected the first captain. W. W. Price, after wards colonel of the regiment, was chosen first lieutenant and John Blakeley, second lieutenant. Lieut. Price was then but 17 years old and his associates were generally about the same age. But, young as they were, they, had in them the material for good soldiers, and the company was increasingly prosperous with the advancing years. In May, 1882, about one-half of the members withdrew and organized another independ ent company. The remainder entered the service of the state as Company "E," First Battalion. In 1887 Lieut. Price was promoted to the captaincy, which position he filled with great credit until June 15, 1893, when he was elected major of the First Regiment, afterwards as stated, becoming its colonel. The company always attended the regimental encampments and had a part in all the regimental parades. It also did good service at the time of the burning of the State Prison at Stillwater, when men were called from their business on an hour's notice to face danger and endure the expo sure of a rigid Minnesota winter, without prospect of reward. Its roster always bore the names of scions of some of the best known St. Paul houses and had a social as well as a military standing of which its mem bers and its friends were justly proud. In 1895 Henry Bork was cap tain, C. P. Stear, first lieutenant, and C. B. Trowbridge, second lieutenant. 614 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Company "H" of the First Regiment was mustered into the service of the state February 24, 1890, by Colonel W. B. Bend. The company was organized in St. Paul by Sergeant Winne, of Company C, who was elected first lieutenant. Joseph Magin was elected first captain. He was succeeded, a few months later, by Capt. M. L. Merrill, who was in turn succeeded by Capt. Frank W. Atchison, who served in the command until October, 1891, when he removed from the city. George E. Roedler, was next elected captain and served until March, 1893, when Lieut. E. C. Montfort, succeeded him. Although one of the youngest companies in the regiment, both as to seniority and as to the age of its individual mem bers, Company "H" soon ranked high for efficiency and good conduct. Their annual ball was a social function to which the young people of the early '90s always looked forward with eager anticipation. In 1895, E. C. Montfort was captain, John C. Hardy, first lieutenant, and G. T. Daly, second lieutenant. It would be interesting to give in detail the history of each of these companies and of those formed at later dates, down to the present day, but lack of space forbids. St. Paul's quota of the National Guard now consists of five companies of infantry, all attached to the first regiment, and two batteries, "A" and "C," of the First Regiment Field Artillery. The Infantry companies are designated, respectively, as "C," "D," "E," "H" and "L." Each has its full complement of men, its corps of alert and competent officers, and each cherishes a commendable pride in its own individual history, as well as in that of the splendid regiment to which it belongs. The National Guard's War Service The response of the National Guard of Minnesota to the call of Presi dent McKinley for volunteers at the beginning of the war with Spain, 1898, was prompt and patriotic. At five o'clock in the afternoon of April 25, 1898, Governor D. M. Clough received a telegram from the War Department at Washington, announcing that Minnesota's quota under the President's call would be three regiments of infantry, and stating the president's request "that the regiments of the National or State Militia, be used so far as their number will permit, for the reason that they are armed, equipped and drilled." In reply to that telegram, the Gov ernor at once wired the Secretary of War, giving full information as to arms and equipments on hand, and closing with the words, "Troops ready for muster at once." The call by the President was for troops to serve for two years, or during the war, and the First, Second and Third regiments, N. G. S. M., readily responded, the ranks filled by volunteers. By an official order, the militia regiments lost their identity as such upon being mustered into the national service and received new numbers following that of the last volunteer infantry regiment of the War of the Rebellion. The Second Regiment, because of the seniority of its colonel, Joseph Bobleter, became the Twelfth Minnesota; the First, Colonel C. McC. Reeve, the Thirteenth; the Third, Colonel C. A. Van Duzee, the Fourteenth. Later in the war the Fifteenth Minnesota was also mus tered into the service. April 29, 1898, the troops went into camp at the State Fair Grounds, St. Paul, temporarily designated as Camp Ramsey. On May 12, Governor Clough received orders to the effect that two of the Minnesota regiments should go to Chickamauga Park, near Chat tanooga, Tennessee, for ultimate prospective service in Cuba and one to ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 615 San Francisco for service in the Philippines. Great was the rejoicing of the men of the First Regiment, now become the 13th, in the cattle barns at Camp Ramsey, when they were informed that their regiment had been designated for the Philippine expedition. On Monday, May 16th, they broke camp and began a trip across the western plains and moun tains which was one grand ovation for the wearers of the blue. Their term of preparatory drill, etc., at San Francisco, their voyage across the Pacific to Manilla, and their gallant war service in that region are a part of the history of the great campaign with reflected infinite credit on the citizen soldiery, vindicating the previous years of arduous preparation which had so eminently qualified them for this trying ordeal. The other Minnesota regiments rendezvoused in Tennessee and Ken tucky, preparatory to proposed service in Cuba, but the war with Spain was concluded with victory and peace before they were called upon to embark. Their experiences in Southern camps were of great interest to the young Minnesota troops, and were an excellent training for future increased efficiency, as national guardsmen. The complications and perplexities experienced by the War Depart ment at Washington in mobilizing the citizen soldiery at the beginning of the Spanish-American war, demonstrated serious defects in the then existing system. This led to subsequent Congressional legislation, look ing to a closer affiliation of the National Guard with the Regular Army, which has already produced highly beneficial results. Past Reputation Well Sustained The Minnesota Volunteer regiments of 1898-9, having returned from their campaigns and camps, resumed their status as National Guard or ganizations, and the St. Paul companies have maintained and augmented their previous high reputation for discipline, drill, soldierly conduct and social prestige. A newspaper item appearing in July, 1912, says : "Com pany 'D,' First Regiment, M. N. G., which Captain E. S. Bean made fa mous years ago in competitive drills with crack companies of other states, was inspected last night in the Armory by Major Arthur Johnson, U. S. A., who was enthusiastic over the result of his inspection. 'One of the best companies I have seen,' the major said. Out of a total of seventy-one men on the roll only three were absent. The average age of the men in line is greater than in some of the companies, a fact which Major John son spoke of with satisfaction. Following the inspection there was com pany drill in close order. Many visitors were present for the dance which followed the drill." The five St. Paul companies of the First Infantry Regiment returned from the annual encampment at Cape Lakeview, Lake City, in July, 1912, with their usual enviable record in the cup-winning line. Company "C," Captain Tiffany, captured the McGill- Warner cup for excellence in shoot ing, and won third place in the regimental shooting. It also won the trophy for guard duty. Companies "C," "D" and "E" of St. Paul were in the first four places in this competition. In addition to these triumphs, Captain Tiffany's men won a cup for general efficiency. Company "D" Captain Barnacle, was tied with Company "M" of Minneapolis for first place in attendance, both companies having a full attendance. In the flip of a coin to decide whether "D" or "M" should get the first cup, the Minneapolis company won. 616 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY The National Guard Armory The St. Paul Armory, Exchange and West Sixth streets, is one of the finest in the West. It was erected in 1903-4 and cost nearly $150,000. It is four stories high and is constructed of brown sandstone and con crete. Besides being the headquarters for the St. Paul organizations of the national guard, it has frequently been used for conventions, auto shows and other, large gatherings. The armory is arranged for the every-day work of the guard and while it includes everything needful in the training of soldiers it has very little space that is devoted to play. The building is divided between five infantry companies and two batteries of artillery. All of these or ganizations use the big drill hall on the main floor. This hall is one of the best constructed for the purpose to be found in the country. It is 130 THE ARMORY by 150 feet and is well lighted. The height to the roof insures plenty of fresh air. In the basement are the indoor galleries for target practice during cold or wet weather. There the men may learn the use of the rifle as well as they do on the ranges. In the basement, also, are the artillery storerooms, gun parks and harness rooms. The field guns are of the modern make. The gunners are protected from rifle fire by steel shields. The artillery equipment furnished by the federal government alone is valued at $100,000. A wide concrete driveway leads from the artillery parks to the sally port opening on the street above. There is also an elevator for hoisting the guns to the drill hall on the main floor. On the top floor the large dance and assembly hall 90 by 30 feet, equipped with a stage, is located. This hall is used for many social and professional purposes. There are held meetings of the Minnesota Na tional Guard Association, at which matters of the service are discussed; lectures on military subjects; and company dances, when the gathering ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 617 is not large enough to warrant using the drill hall on the main floor. The drill hall is used by one company or battery each night for drill. Along its sides are glass cases in which are kept the guns belonging to the. infantry organizations. These rifles are of the latest pattern. The armory is also supplied with a fine gymnasium and plenty of shower baths. CHAPTER. LVI THE MIDWAY DISTRICT IN ST. PAUL Settlement of Reserve Township — Process of City Absorption — Early Midway Events — The Minnesota Transfer — Great In dustries — Residential and Educational Center — Proposed Grand Union Depot — New Water Power Corporation — New Era of City Building Required A noteworthy distinction and perhaps unparalleled feature of St. Paul in futuro, and of the Twin City in ultimo, is the "Midway" or interurban district. Once a wide stretch of groves and prairies, of farms and orchards, lying between two struggling little towns ten miles apart, it is now a populous city in itself, with thousands of beautiful homes ; with miles of paved and lighted streets ; with churches and schools and colleges; with elevators and abattoirs, and big factories; with parks and boulevards and bustling marts of trade ; traversed by four interurban electric lines; with post office, fire and police stations, newspapers and banks; with the second largest freight transfer in the world. The rapid, uninterrupted, irresistible development of this section is a phenomenon, even in this country of constructive marvels and miracles. The Midway district in St. Paul lies between Snelling avenue, on the east and the city limits on the west, and runs from the Mississippi river on the south, to the city boundary on the north. The area of its present intense activity extends from the Grand avenue electric line to the Como- Harriet line. But, in fact, all the territory of St. Paul lying west of Snelling avenue is a part of her Midway district. Settlement of Reserve Township The fractional township of "Reserve," taken into the city and thus transformed into the southern segment of this circuit, was so named because a major portion of it was formerly included within the military reservation of Fort Snelling. The first settlers in Reserve, were the Swiss from Lord Selkirk's Red River colony who settled on the east bank of the Mississippi river on the military reservation, and after a few years residence were driven from their homes by order of the war de partment, as narrated in an early chapter. William Finn made the first permanent settlement in Reserve, in 1842, on section 4, bordering on the line of the reservation. Samuel J. Findley, R. Knapheide and W. E. Brimhall were early settlers. Adam and Peter Bohland, after living in St. Paul, and after the former had served in the Union army, came to Reserve in 1866 and 1868. They have since been prominent in county affairs. 618 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 619 The southern half of the area west of Snelling avenue that was for merly a part of Reserve, is still partly devoted to farms and gardens, although penetrated from the city by west Seventh street, and further west, along the bluffs by the river boulevard, both dotted with city homes. But the northern portion, impinging on Summit boulevard, is platted into additions and is being rapidly covered with fine residences. Rose town furnished the sections of land now embraced in the northern part of the Midway district. Process of City Absorption When this district was incorporated with the city in 1890, there were in the process, absorbed by St. Paul the distinct village governments, and post-offices of Merriam Park, St. Anthony Park, Macalester and Hamline, with the promising suburban hamlets of Ridgewood Park, Union Park, Groveland, etc. The civic garment was stretched over them with little or no objection on their part, some special provisions as to ex isting municipal indebtedness, restrictions of the liquor traffic, and the like, being made. After a little friction, matters became adjusted; the sections became wards of St. Paul, and the city machinery has for years worked as smoothly here as at other points. Thus we have the Midway district, the attractive educational and resi dential region of the present; the great transportation, industrial and commercial center of the future, with residential areas so broad and eligi ble that home sites will be available at low prices, for an indefinite period. University avenue, an extremely broad street, the great highway, the street of the shortest interurban line, passes directly through it. It is equally accessible to either city at a single car-fare, with all transfer privi leges, and commands the resources of both. On the other hand, it is far enough from both to have somewhat delayed its improvement; it is the point just short of which city growth for some years stopped; it was long nourished on a balanced ration of patience and hope, and the wide expanse of its territory, combined with the reasonable price of land, now present a tempting bait to the projectors of new enterprises. Early Midway Events The following are some of the early events in the development of the Midway district in St. Paul, stated in their chronological order. August, 1888: The Midway News established in Merriam Park by Ed. A. Paradis. November 1888: A committee composed of D. M. Sullivan, J. W. Shepard and W. B. Martin was appointed, at the meeting of the Merriam Park Improvement Association, to urge the extension of the Selby avenue cable line to Merriam Park. The matter of sewers was referred to a committee. March 28, 1889 : The first Odd Fellows lodge in the Midway district was instituted in Brainerd Hall. May 1, 1889: Free delivery was established in Merriam Park. May 11, 1889: The Marshall avenue bridge had been thrown open. June 12, 1889: Macalester College held its first commencement. June 22, 1889: Father J. J. Kean purchased the northeast corner of Dayton and Moore avenues upon which to erect a $10,000 Catholic church. 620 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY July, 1889: The Merriam Park Cornet Band was organized with F. W. Root president, F. A. McFarland secretary, and J. L. Williamson treasurer. December, 1889: The Minnesota Transfer Board of Trade was or ganized — D. F. Brooks, president, and Ed. A. Paradis, secretary and treasurer. January, 1890: The new Presbyterian church at Macalester was dedi cated. February 22, 1890: The first electric line to the Midway district was formally opened. Alderman D. M. Sullivan, in his opening address, pre dicted that "such a grand opening, on such a grand occasion, of so grand an enterprise as the Grand avenue electric line," was of itself as assur ance of Ihe grand future of the Midway district. April 20, 1890: Construction work on the Selby avenue cable exten sion was progressing rapidly. Work had commenced on the new bridge on the Short line tracks east of Snelling avenue. May 24, 1890 : About 100 men were employed in laying track on the new University electric line. September 13, 1890: James J. Hill had subscribed half a million dol lars for the new St. Paul Seminary, to be erected by Archbishop Ireland on the river front at Summit avenue. June, 1891 : An elaborate dinner was served by the Transfer Board of Trade at the Woodruff House, corner of St. Anthony and Cleveland avenues. About seventy-five guests sat at table, among whom were Arch bishop Ireland, ex-Governor William R. Marshall, Rev. Dr. John Woods, Senator Hiram F. Stevens, Judge D. A. J. Baker and many prominent residents of the Midway district. All were enthusiastic friends of the future center of the Twin Metropolis. August, 1891 : A large force of men at work on the Prior avenue electric line, penetrating the very center of Merriam Park. October, 1891 : The extension of the Langford avenue electric line through St. Anthony Park being surveyed. August 27, 1892: Norman Perkins of Prior avenue, assisted by John Fishel, both United States railway mail officials, made one continuous run from San Francisco to New York city, during the week, with a special train carrying twenty million dollars in gold. March, 1894: The joint press clubs of St. Paul and Minneapolis, about fifty strong from each city, twenty-five or thirty editors from dif ferent parts of the state, and nearly one hundred prominent men of Mer riam Park and both cities, were served a full course dinner at Brooks Hall, on University avenue. The Minnesota Transfer A leading business feature of the Midway district in St Paul is the Minnesota Transfer. This unique organization, owing two hundred acres which are literally covered with tracks and switches, is the great clearing house for all the west and east bound freight that passes. Every freight train that rolls into either city, unless its consignment is for local consumption, no matter on what road, whence it came or whither it is bound, must go into this terminal, be examined, broken up if necessary and have the contents of its different cars reloaded, before it can pro ceed to its destination. There is but one transfer system in the world which exceeds it in point of tonnage — Pittsburg; and none which equals it ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 621 in the number of railroad systems converging in it. The railroads center ing here represent 55,000 miles of direct trackage. Projected originally by James J. Hill, it is now the joint property of the nine roads meeting at this point, and is maintained by contributions from each road in propor tion to the amount of freight handled. The company owns eighty-two miles of trackage ; four hundred switches, and nineteen locomotives. In 1 910, 566,745 cars were received and sent out again, making an average of about 1,500 a day, of which about 200 were unloaded, their contents sorted, repacked, and distributed. It has about a thousand employes and an average pay roll of $60,000 a month. Thus, the manufacturer or jobber who has built his house in the Midway district finds at his very door a railroad which will take his out put and deliver it to practically any point on the continent to which it is billed, thereby eliminating one of the most troublesome and expensive de tails with which a shipper has to deal. This explains why many acres of this territory are being covered with enormous industrial plants, some of them models of their kind. It was no part of the purpose of the found ers of the Minnesota Transfer to handle local freight; but one hundred and twenty- three home concerns are now its regular customers ; and of the 19,857,443,069 pounds of freight which it handled last year it is estimated that twenty per cent, represented shipments from local firms and corpora tions. Great Industries An enumeration of the industries represented in this district makes a very long list. Probably the largest single item is furniture, including mattresses, beds and bedding. In one building alone, consisting a sort of furniture exchange, the Northwestern Furniture and Stove Exposi tion building, a business amounting to $2,000,000 is done annually. Sec ond in rank is linseed oil with its products. Two of the largest refrigera tor manufactories in the country are here, and the second largest concern manufacturing lithographed labels and folding boxes, with a plant show ing the most perfect development of factory construction. Closely allied with it is a large box-board mill, rated at $500,000, the two concerns in volving an investment of approximately $1,000,000. The repair and manufacturing shops and power station of the Twin City Rapid Transit Company occupy one of the largest tracts, sixty acres, the whole represent ing an investment of over $2,000,000. There are storage warehouses, one of the largest of its kind, receiving consignments from all over the coun try in bulk and reshipping in smaller quantities as needed. Furnaces, stoves, radiators and heating apparatus of all kinds are made or dealt in; and all manner of farm equipment, from the smallest tool to the most com plicated threshing machine. Paint and varnish, linoleum, lime, brick and tiles ; lubricating oil ; iron wire, grill work and well screens are among the industries represented ; there are lumber and fuel dealers, contractors and real estate brokers; manufacturers of printers' ink and commercial printing concerns ; manufacturers and jobbers of gravity carriers, eleva tors and automobile trucks ; soap, candy, groceries, pharmaceutical house hold remedies, smoking and chewing tobacco; a plant of the American Can Company, and a manufacturer of fruit package cases, a piano factory, an abattoir and two horse markets, one of them the largest in the west. A late addition to the Midway manufacturing facilities under con struction at this writing is on University avenue, the factory of Griggs Cooper & Company, jobbers of groceries in St. Paul. It is to have a 622 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY capacity of six tons of candy and 3,600,000 crackers daily. The building is 200 by 300 feet, three stories, and will be in many ways the only factory of its kind in the United States. There is a large area of glass which will make the work rooms as light as outdoors. In the cracker de partment, in place of having the operations move from one floor to the next in the process of turning the flour into boxed crackers the 'product will move horizontally on the same floor. The building with machinery, which will all be new, will cost about $300,000. There will be a 100 foot parkway in front of the building along the street car tracks. The factory is directly opposite the little park on the other side of University avenue, so that the surroundings of the work rooms will be of the best. Special attention has been paid in the new factory to toilet and rest rooms for the employes. The large area of north windows will give uniform light and plenty of air. The factory will be kept in as sanitary manner as modern appliances and care will permit. The Midway Commercial Club, with rooms in the Furniture Exposi tion building, is an active organization whose functions are both commer cial and social. It is composed of about a hundred members, all of whom are ambitious for the welfare and progress of their part of the city, and are actively pushing its interests in every possible way. Of the great future which awaits this portion of St. Paul there can be no possible question. As time goes on and the city grows in activity and diversity of interest, this will become one of the great manufacturing and jobbing centers of the country. If the dual cities are indeed the pillars of the "Gateway of the Northwest," the Midway district may well be regarded as the keystone of the arch which connects them. Residential and Educational Center North and south of the central belt in which are located the transfer, industrial and commercial enterprises of the district, are the sections devoted to residences. Each has the unequalled advantages of ready access to two large cities, an admirable scenic environment and excep tional educational facilities. It is literally surrounded with parks. Lake Park, the State Fair Grounds, Como, Hamline, Union, Merriam, Macales ter, Groveland, Prospect, Hiawatha, Riverside Drive, Town and Country Club Golf Links, Capital Park, and St. Anthony South, are all included within its east and west boundaries and between the university grounds and the river. It is a great center of education and culture, for within its limits or in its immediate neighborhood are many of the largest and most important schools, seminaries and colleges of the state, including in the number the State Agricultural College and Experiment Station and Farm — part of the University of Minnesota. Other notable institutions of learning, several of which are of far more than local fame, are Ham line University, Macalester College, Norwegian Lutheran Seminary, the Baptist Swedish Academy, Lutheran Seminary, Luther College, St. Cath erine's Seminary, St. Thomas College and St. Paul Seminary. And the State University itself lies only a mile beyond its western boundary. A number of car lines touch or cross it, and either St. Paul or Minneapolis can be reached by a single fare of five cents. An expert city promoter from the east, visiting our Midway in the summer of 191 1, said to a newspaper representative: "Midway and the Hill district of St. Paul, I think, will become the great residential district of the Twin City. The residential district of St. Paul is moving toward Midway and the trend ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 623 in Minneapolis is the same, therefore, it is logical that the Midway dis trict should become the great retail center." The enormous business interests of the Minnesota Transfer do not detract in any degree from Midway as a residence district, but have materially assisted in the rapid upbuilding of the place by necessitating homes for the various officers of the company, and of the establish ments, manufacturing and commercial, it has created. By the manage ment of the original plat owners of Merriam and Union parks, a very select community was established; not only was the building of at least a $2,500 residence required of the purchaser of every building site, but sales were refused to persons who were considered in any way objection able to a first class community. The result is beautiful homes in dwell ings that range from $2,500 to $15,000 in cost, and a society that is not surpassed in either St. Paul or Minneapolis. In other, and highly desir able sections are sites for comfortable homes at less cost. Minnehaha Park, Minneapolis, lies just across the narrow gorge of the Mississippi, which its buffalo and elk park, deer park, picnic grove, flower garden, Longfellow garden, Longfellow glen, Minnehaha creek with its cliffs and islets, and gem of the whole assemblage of attractions, Minnehaha Falls. The Minnesota Soldiers' Home, with well kept grounds and splendid buildings, supplements these attractions. Proposed Grand Union Depot The proposition for one grand union railway passenger station in the Midway district, to serve all the needs of the two cities of today and the one Twin City of the future, is a favorite topic with the people of this favored region. That the views of their spokesman on this proposi tion may have fair and emphatic record here, we quote utterances thereon from the Midway News, published for more than twenty years past at Merriam Park by E. A. Paradis, always a faithful champion of their interests : "That the concentrated interests of either St. Paul or Min neapolis will ever take the initiative in pushing the erection of the new Union depot in the Midway district is absolutely out of the question. That the railway companies themselves are not in a position to crowd such a location upon the concentrated interests of the two cities without serious loss to themselves is also apparent. That the new Union depot enterprise may thus be indefinitely delayed, to the great detriment of both cities, as well as to the railroads themselves, is therefore self-evi dent. That practically such a delay is certain to ensue if the work of changing the bed of the Mississippi river across the West St. Paul flats is now undertaken is absolutely unmistakable. Upon whom, then, does it devolve to sound the morning call, arouse our dormant neighbors out of their nightmare of two union depots for Twin City, and thus save Twin City from an interminable delay in the much needed re-opening of The Gateway of the Northwest, if not to the people of the Midway dis trict themselves? "That St. Paul and Minneapolis are geographically united — you will find that on the map. That the two cities are socially united — you may discover that at Woodruff Hall, in the elegance of its Twin City dancing parties and other gatherings. That they are fraternally united — that will be demonstrated to you in Midway district lodges — Masonic, Odd Fel lows, Royal Arcanum, United Workmen,, Foresters, etc., etc.; that they are united educationally and religiously — that is attested by the grand 624 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY circle of colleges, universities and seminaries that encompass the Minne sota Transfer and the frequency of joint gatherings of clergymen and church organizations of all the principal denominations in the Twin City, for the sake of convenience, in Midway district churches. "One union deport for both cities not only means that every person who owns a home anywhere about the center of the Midway district will see its value so increased that it can be exchanged for two or three equally desirable homes in equally desirable localities, but it means that every foot of property in both cities will be greatly advanced, whereas the issuance of half-million dollars of certificates of indebtedness upon the city, which is but the feathered edge of the wedge, means a blanket mortgage upon your home which will grow and spread worse than a bed of dandelions. The acquirement of more ground for depot purposes is a mere subterfuge. It has been an open secret for years among commercial men that the union depot, whenever it is erected, will be located at the Minnesota Transfer and nowhere else. All the leading jobbers have already pur chased their future sites in the Midway district, and such an argument as that of Chief Engineer Harrold is practically conclusive. "When the eleven great trunk lines whose joint freight yards are flow located in the Midway district conclude to erect a joint passenger station alongside of their joint freight yard; and they never will erect two 'union depots' any more than they will ever put in two Minnesota Transfers ; then they will need no more advice from the Midway district than from the dailies of either city. Economy and convenience for all time to come, and not the cost of the real estate, nor the pipe dreams of ghost dancers, will determine the choice. The history and growth of these two municipalities are not within the scope of this article, but a steamboat landing at the head of navigation on the Mississippi river was the beginning of St. Paul's great wholesale and shipping interests, and a flour mill on St. Anthony falls, Mississippi river, the nucleus around which Minneapolis' mammoth milling interests have been built up. "To construct two union stations at this northwest gateway, within ten miles of each other, costing approximately $4,000,000 each, would be an economic error. It would also tend, in no small measure to con tinue the individuality of these two cities, which is not to be desired, and it would not afford the traveling public the simplicity of service which one union station with individual borough and suburban stations would afford. "Everything that tends to lead the public mind to think of this dual municipality as one city tends to set the public mind right on a very im portant subject; not only important to the Midway district itself, nor yet to the two municipalities themselves, but to the entire northwest. What can be more detrimental to the northwest than this choking, stifling, strangling of the very Gateway of the Northwest itself? Had all the new residents of the Midway district, since the consolidation of the cor porations stood as loyally by the Midway News as do the older residents of Merriam Park, the Twin City Union Depot would have been erected long ago; Twin City would have one or two hundred thousand more population, and the entire northwest would be relatively better off. It all depends upon the Midway district people themselves." We may not be able to accept all these premises, adopt all the conclu sions or join in all the prophecies, but we must admire the superb loyalty to constituency displayed in this presentation, and the intelligent devotion of its writer to what, in his opinion, the general interest demands. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 625 New Water Power Corporation Another project of more immediate importance because promising earlier results, relates to the Midway district, but has interested all the people of both cities. This is the new corporation, including representa tives of the city of St. Paul, the city of Minneapolis and the University of Minnesota. The corporation is formed for the purpose of controlling the power to be developed by the high dam. Its corporators are Mayor Kel ler of St. Paul, Mayor Haynes. of Minneapolis and John Lind, president of the Board of Regents of the State University. This is in accordance with the special act of the legislature enabling St. Paul to unite with Minneapolis and the University of Minnesota in obtaining whatever bene fits may be derived from power to be developed by the high dam across the Mississippi, now in the course of construction near the Soldiers' Home. It is believed electricity ' can be generated so cheaply by this method that there will be a material saving in the cost of street lighting and lighting of municipal and state buildings in the two cities. Under the act of con gress the corporation, authorized by the legislature and sanctioned by the legislative branches of the two cities, will deal with the government for the control of the power, paying four per cent interest on the additional cost of the dam necessitated to develop this power. The corporation will be required to furnish the power equipment, but with the power at hand it is thought there will be no difficulty in negotiating a bond issue to cover this cost. New Era of City Building Required That a new era of city building has dawned upon the world is ap parent to thinking men, and that each city must improve all its advantages is a truism. St. Paul has advantages in the Midway district which can not be ignored. Cities have been handicapped by starting on their civic career before all the modern improvements which distinguish a modern city from a berg of old should have been discovered. There has never been a moment like the present for a town to start itself in; taking ad vantage of all the lessons learned by man since the days of Babylon, the promoters of a new town site can build better than any other promoters have ever known. There is always the possibility that the year 21 11 will find the city of 191 1 improved. And yet, such have been the inventions of the past decade that it would seem the city is pretty fully revealed. What the future shall add cannot be much more than by way of ornament. St. Paul is not getting into this game any too soon. Every business man knows what over-confidence, easy satisfaction, let well enough alone, will do to his business. Competitors, rivalry, the existence of a competi tor who is pushing ahead, threatens the business which rests on its laurels. Rivalry between cities is just as keen and active as between enterprises and industries. The successful business man studies all phases of his in dividual problem. The city which does the same thing, and does it in telligently, persistently, and with a keen eye to the future, gains relatively just as much as the business man who employs the same methods. The only trouble is expressed in the old axiom, "What is everybody's business is nobody's business." This is the notion which must be corrected. What is everybody's interest is everybody's business. We shall have leaders, of course, as the very word organization implies, but we must have team work. And nowhere will leadership and team work, and civic enthusiasm yield richer rewards than a due attention to the problems in volved in the best possible use of our exclusive and inalienable asset, the Midway district in St. Paul. CHAPTER LVII SUBURBAN TOWNS City and Suburbs Closely Related — Directly Tributary to St. Paul — South St. Paul and Other Dakota County Suburbs — North St. Paul — Electricity a Distributor — Other New Canada Sub urbs — White Bear Lake Region — Mound's View Township — Rose Township as Suburban Territory — Ramsey County's Fine Roads The problems and possibilities of the Twin City are discussed in an other chapter. Whatever the future may have in store relative to the organic union of St. Paul and Minneapolis, that event will probably be preceded by the absorption into a "Greater St. Paul" of all the suburban towns now lying within the boundaries of Ramsey county, and later by the absorption into a still greater St. Paul of certain other suburbs, which, lying in other counties, involve different and more difficult questions of policy and procedure. City and Suburbs Closely Related That a city should control its environs, and that the latter are on the whole benefited by such control, is one of the discoveries of recent years. This control might seem to imply only a supervision of the physical de velopment, but it is believed that the political corporation should embrace a territory so large as to include all of the suburban population which is immediately identified with the central organization. This is in sym pathy with the true democracy of community life, and constitutes a bal ance wheel between the various elements of society. The suburbs are, in interest and in sympathy, as much a part of the central corporation as though embraced in its political organization, and to achieve the highest state of perfection of community life there should be the most intimate relations, both physical and political, between them. There has been an extraordinary change of thought in city planning during recent years. Density of population, scientific sanitation, the tele phone, rapid transit, the automobile, used both for passengers and freight. have created conditions not thought of forty years ago, which, while send ing many of the people beyond the corporate limits, have brought the resi dents of the city and suburbs into closer relations; so that the problems of government functions of the two, while identical, are separated by an imaginary line. There was a time when the city had but to regard the problems and dangers that lurked in the dense population within its limits. The time has now come when its attention must embrace a con siderable area without. The thought and energy of the city of tomorrow must be focused on a proper development of its suburbs, that they may supplement the needs of the central city. 626 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 627 In enumerating the advantages to a city in the control of its outlying districts we may emphasize briefly the following as of greatest immediate importance : i. A continuous and harmonious plan of physical continuity, with its economic extension of highways of intimate connection with the cen tral city, embracing a comprehensive system of parks and connecting boulevards that will provide for a constantly growing population the opportunity to live and seek recreation in the most delightful and health ful surroundings. 2. Closely related to the physical plan of the city, and dependent on the character of the physical subdivision, is the control of housing con ditions by proper building laws and the correlated problems of sanitation. 3. The economical control of public utilities by one central power that has in mind a service which supplies the best commodity for the price paid ; that realizes in the economic transportation needs of the com munity the industrial welfare of the individual and the opportunity for a progressive enjoyment of existence; that is inspired with the thought that every minute saved in going to and from the shop and office adds so many more to the indulgence of recreation and of a sane life. 4. Mutual benefits would flow from a uniform system of public work, fire, police and excise regulations, both from economical considera tion as well as in the removal of friction between conflicting organiza tions, where the only real difference that now exists is the source of authority. There was a time when community life was left to chance or caprice. Today the progressive city is the one that leads in building ac cording to a carefully drawn plan inspired by the thought of the com munity's present and future needs; that recognizes an obligation dis charged only by an existence of equal opportunity to enjoy health and rational life. These are questions that will be seriously demanding a wise answer from the people of St. Paul. Meantime our immediate suburbs, vigorous and attractive daughters of the parent city, have their distinct organiza tions, aspirations and traditions, each worthy of far more extended con sideration than the space at our disposal will permit us to give it. And the more distant towns that are being rapidly drawn into a quasi subur ban relationship by the extension of electric railway transit in every direc tion, while having fewer incentives to a close organic union, will steadily grow in a recognition of that community of interest which commercial and social intercourse must ultimately ensure. Directly Tributary to St. Paul Ramsey county, the smallest in the state, contained six townships — White Bear, Mound's View, Rose, New Canada, McLean and Reserve. The four last named had a common corner in St. Paul at a point near the Soldier's Monument on Summit avenue. The expansion of the city, reaching in all directions from this point has taken in all of Reserve; practically all of McLean, since the few remaining sections have been attached to New Canada, and about one-half each of .Rose and New Canada. This leaves only White Bear and Mound's View townships ter ritorially intact, but directly in line of the onward march of the all- absorbing metropolis. Reserve and Rose, before their incorporation into the city, held several prosperous suburban towns — Merriam Park, Macalester, St. Anthony 628 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Park, Union Park, Hamline, Warrendale, etc., all now parts of the Mid way district, and treated of in the chapter devoted to that region. The other suburbs, directly tributary to St. Paul, but lying beyond its limits in Ramsey, Washington and Dakota counties, are the objects of our present inquiry. South St. Paul and Other Dakota County Suburbs The City of South St. Paul is the largest of these suburbs. It is located on the west bank of the Mississippi river five miles below St. Paul, with which it is also connected by the Great Western and the Rock Island railroads and by the Twin City electric line. It has an area of about 20 square miles ; a population of more than 7,000, and does a large live-stock business, being the seventh largest market of its kind in the United States. There are 250 acres in the yards and 2,400 employees. In 191 1 the yards received 32,123 carloads, aggregating 2,169,000 head of stock, worth nearly $40,000,000. The fifth largest packing industry in the country is here. All of the stockyards buildings are fitted up with every modern con venience for conducting an extensive business. Large silos have been constructed for the preparation and handling of winter feed; an admir able sewerage system drains the land; an abundant supply of pure water has been obtained from artesian wells, convenient to all the buildings; ice is harvested in the vicinity of the yards at a comparatively low cost. The situation of the stockyards is all that can be desired, and the estab-, lishment of this industry has been of incalculable value to the agricul tural interests of the Northwest. Much of the material that is needed for sustaining the live stock is obtained in Minnesota, and thousands of farmers find it to their profit to engage in growing corn and other fodder, and in raising cattle needed for the market which the stockyards create. The fact that there is at South St. Paul a market for all the live stock which the Northwest can raise, means that the farmers can get money any time they want it. It has been pointed out by agricultural experts that it is less trouble to raise a 210 pound hog from spring to fall than it is to plow, harrow, seed and harvest an acre of grain, yet the returns are about the same in dollars, to say nothing of the value added to the soil by giving it a rest while the attention is devoted to live stock. Com parison of the receipts at the South St. Paul market and the markets of other Western packing centers will show that the local receipts are well to the front, considering the shorter length of time which the local estab lishment has been in operation. At times when other markets show a falling off compared with previous years, the cars are rolling into this center with largely increased receipts. The people of the Northwest are appreciating a market near to them and are sending more and more of their live stock here. The yearly totals of money paid out for live stock locally are now near the $50,000,000 mark, and are constantly growing as better methods of farming are becoming extended, and animal husbandry is given an increasingly large place on the average farm. If the city has grown rich with the passing years it cannot be said, in the face of such figures, that it has been at the expense of the country. The selling value of the produce of the farms of the northwest has been increased many times over by the broad and certain outlet here provided. Established less than twenty-five years ago, the St. Paul Union Stock Yards, and the various ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 629 packing establishments at South St. Paul, have developed into one of the greatest live stock centers on the continent, and continue to show growth fully in keeping with the development within the territory which the market serves. It has been a solid growth, the kind upon which the future rests secure and which bears promise of continuing indefinitely. Every provision is made for the handling of stock in a rapid manner, the stock yards having a daily capacity of 20,000 cattle, 15,000 hogs and 45,000 sheep. This amount of stock would require upwards of 1,000 railroad cars to haul ; hence it will be readily seen that there is nothing dimunitive about the market. Modern packing ideas have been carried out in every detail of the ar rangements. Four packing establishments contribute to the outlet for the stock locally, and the market attracts buyers from eastern and western cities, so that there is always demand to insure a market for everything that is sent in for sale. The great variety of the by-products of the insti tutions and the great diversity in geographical location of the place of consumption interest all visitors. The jaws and skulls of cattle, for ex ample, are chipped into small pieces and sold for chicken feed in Iowa. The blood is ground for stock feed. The various fertilizers not otherwise used, go to the south to aid in raising cotton, and to Japan to coax the mulberry tree to grow stronger. The hog hair is worth five cents a pound in Philadelphia, where it is sent to make hair mattresses. The blood of a hog is worth $55 a ton, while the white hoofs demand $80 to $200 a ton. The shin bones of cows are carefully washed and cleansed and sawed into meat lengths. These are sold in Connecticut and other places in the east where firms make ornaments from them. The white hoofs of cattle and hogs are sent to Japan, where they find a ready market for the prepa ration of some sort of medicine. Other hoofs and horns go east, where ornaments of various sorts are made. The hides of cattle and sheep bring large prices. The sheep which are in proper condition have their hides made into sheep-skin coats, while the hides of cattle and hogs are converted into leather at the large new tannery adjacent to the packing plants. Over 2,000,000 pounds of but- terine a year constitute another by-product. There is an enormous hen house unusually clean, where 10,000 chickens are kept to be fed for two weeks on a mixture of milk and cereal before being killed for the market. South St. Paul is not wholly dependent on its stock market and pack ing industry. Sixteen manufacturing establishments of various kinds, as well as a full quota of stores and other business establishments, go to make up the list of enterprises which provide a living for the people of the thriving city. The municipality is full awake to its opportunities and is making rapid strides in the matter of local improvements, taking time to groom itself well in accordance with the standards set by public opinion ior a community enjoying much of worldly prosperity and aspiring for more. A bank, a newspaper, schools, churches and other public insti tutions attest the thrift and enterprise of the people. South St. Paul stands, today, a monument to the sagacity and public spirit of A. B. Stickney, president and builder of the railroad on which it was located, who devised the plan in 1886. Backed by such associates as Ansel Oppenheim, William Dawson, James B. Power, and Arnold Kalman, encouraged by the Chamber of Commerce and business men of St. Paul, Mr. Stickney boldly took the initiative at an opportune time, and secured results for the city which no efforts of rivals have even been able to neutralize. 630 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY South of the city of South St. Paul lies its residence suburb, Inver Grove, the site of the old Indian town, Kaposia, on a sightly and salu brious bluff, a station on two railroads, the terminus of the electric line and the proposed starting point for new electric roads reaching into the rich agricultural counties to the southward. ' North of South St. Paul and lying between it and the city proper, is West St. Paul, a residence suburb of St. Paul, with an increasing popula tion that constitutes the overflow of the city in that direction. Inver Grove, South St. Paul and West St. Paul, together with the historic village of Mendota, still further west, all lie in Dakota county. Mendota was once the only town in Minnesota — a town decades before St. Paul was dreamed of. It lost out in the race for precedence and has long been somnolent. But with the quickening historic interest, Men dota is coming into its own, a permanent position as center and custodian for the historic memories of the state and the Northwest. The Sibley house has proved a desired Mecca, and not only do people journey thither to inspect this ancient dwelling but from every part of the state subjects of historic interest are coming to a final and secure resting place. Mendota is to become beneficiary of much improvement. A new station is to be built by the St. Paul road, and a general air of happy preservation will settle down over the place. Mendota may never lend its fortunate name of "Meeting Place of the Waters" to the united cities, but it may become the admired relic of their ancestry. North St. Paul The second in importance of the towns adjacent and directly tribu tary to St. Paul is North St. Paul, located in Ramsey county, only a mile beyond the northeastern limits of the city, on the Chicago division of the "Soo" railroad and the Stillwater electric line. The distance from the business center of the city to that of the village is seven miles ; the elec tric cars run half-hourly (on special days quarter-hourly) ; the time con sumed in transit is twenty-five minutes. North St. Paul is a very busy place — one of the busiest and most prosperous of its size in the northwest. Every able-bodied man there is a worker, drones and adventurers finding neither affiliation nor encour agement. It is a well organized community, having an efficient and in expensive municipal government ; excellent graded schools and high school ; electric street lights ; a complete system of water works ; an ef fective fire department ; fine parks and drives ; thirty-five miles of graded streets ; three miles of stone sidewalks ; telephone and telegraph service ; a beautiful like resort ; five churches ; a bank, newspaper and commercial club; stores in all lines; cheap homes for business and working men; every comfort, convenience and luxury of modern city life. This develop ment and activity is based on the existence and daily successful operation of half a dozen manufacturing establishments, as well as on its position as a residence suburb. The village jurisdiction extends over an area of four square miles, in the northeast corner of New Canada township. Of this area, 750 acres, embracing the town site proper, constituted from 1872 to 1887, the farm and summer home of Henry A. Castle. In the latter year the North St. Paul Land Company purchased the tract and established a manufac turing suburb. In spite of the usual vicissitudes which have attended such enterprises, the town has achieved a final degree of prosperity which vin- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 631 dicates the foresight of its founders. A leading factor in building up the town was the sagacity, enterprise and perseverance of John Luger Senior, who came to North St. Paul from Wabasha in 1887 and during the re mainder of his life was the industrial and financial primate of the com munity. At his death, after twenty years' successful management of his extensive manufacturing institutions, he left them in the hands of his capable sons whom he had carefully trained in their respective depart ments. North St. Paul occupies some of the highest ground in Ramsey county. Its lowest levels are 250 feet above the Mississippi at St. Paul, and Silver lake, its beautiful attraction, lies 50 feet higher still, being on the apex of the ridge separating the Mississippi and St. Croix rivers and sixty feet higher than the level of White Bear lake, three miles north. The shores of Silver lake are finely wooded, and are occupied mostly by the summer residences of St. Paul citizens, among whom are Messrs. Price, McCree, Jennings, Joy, Drummond, Hunt, Fitzgerald, Parker, Johnston, Morton and Castle. Other handsome and permanent residences fronting Silver lake are those of Messrs. Lains, Walters, Neuman, Reif, Dr. Alquist, Mrs. Morgan and Mrs. Tibbs. A smooth macadam road, connecting North St. Paul and Silver lake with the city, furnishes a fa vorite drive for automobile parties in summer. A beautiful park on the south shore of Silver lake preserves free access to the water-side for the people of the village. On July 4th, 5th and 6th, 1912, the people of North St. Paul cele brated, with an elaborate programme of processions, speeches, amuse ments, banquets, fire-works, etc., the quarter-centennial of the establish ment of their flourishing town. It was made the occasion of the "home coming" of many former residents. Its unqualified success was a gratify ing demonstration of local public spirit. Electricity a Distributor The development of suburban towns with their resources of sun shine and fresh air ; their attractions for family life ; their facilities for gardening and other semi-rural pursuits, is a distinctively recent pheno menon. The steam age began about 1830; its great achievement was to concentrate population around power. About 1890, Prof. Orton, then our greatest authority in matters pertaining to coal beds and geological formations, said in a monograph : "The steam age is rapidly approaching its close; all anthracite coal deposits in America will be exhausted by 1930, the Pittsburgh seam alone excepted. We must look for a new power, and a new and quieter age." Mr. Orton thought that there would be a great development of country life, and that a good deal of old- fashioned living would be restored. About that time electricity began to get its grip on commerce and manufacture. Electricity, unlike steam, is a distributive force. It has already shown its power to break up con gestion, and create a much more even distribution. North St. Paul, and the encircling cottage clusters around White Bear lake are modern instances of the exercise of this power. Life at a quiet suburban resort is one grand, sweet waltz song — at least in the previous anticipations of the worn-out city dwellers, some times measurably realized in actual experience. There are no doorbells to answer in the little lakeside cottage or bungalow; no beggars to send away to the charity bureau ; no gas bills to pay ; no garbage pails to put 632 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY out ; no lawns to mow ; no cats on the back fence at night ; no phone calls for other parties ; no dust clouds from dirty pavement ; no autos snorting out in front at 2 o'clock in the morning ; no houses going up next door ; no ice-men tracking up the kitchen; no plumbing out of order, and no book agents. Marvel not that the advance notices of such enjoyment have their insistent charm. Other New Canada Suburbs Other suburban towns in New Canada township are Gladstone and Little Canada, or St. John's City. Gladstone is at the junction of the "Soo" railroad with the Duluth division of the Northern Pacific, a mile beyond Lake Phalen. It has the repair shops of the latter railway, the nucleus of a thriving settlement. Little Canada has a history almost antedating St. Paul. It was settled by Pierre and Benjamin Gervais, in 1844, who were soon followed by other French Canadians, mostly farmers in the neighborhood. A mill was built, also a school house and a Catholic church ; a store and post office were established, and although the village has never achieved a large growth, it has always remained a social center and a rallying point for the numerous descendants of the original settlers. The first Catholic church was dedicated in 1852, and on August 18, 1912, the sixtieth anniversary of that event was celebrated with imposing ceremonies. Hazel Park founded in 1887, by William L. Ames, is within the city limits, at the junction of the Northwestern Railroad with the Stillwater electric line ; besides being a fine residence suburb it is the loca tion of a large industrial plant, that of the International Flax Twine Company. White Bear Lake Region White Bear is one of the two townships of Ramsey county which still remain organically exempt from the effects of St. Paul's resistless ex pansion; howbeit, by no means exempt from the thronging but doubtless welcome invasions of St. Paul citizens, seeking temporary or permanent places of abode. It is the northeastern township of Ramsey county and derives its name from its splendid lake, the largest in the county and one of the popular summer resorts of the great northwest. The first settlers in the township were French Canadians, the overflow from the adjacent hamlet of Little Canada. They were John Vadnais and David Garceau who came in 1846, and located near Vadnais Lake. The first settler at White Bear lake, was V. B. Barnum, who came to Minnesota in 1839, and located at Stillwater until 1849, when he re moved to St. Paul, where he remained until 1852, when he came to the lake and made a purchase and on that wild spot, where long stood the Leip House surrounded with cottages and beautiful groves, he erected his first log cabin. He covered it with elm bark, as he could not obtain the shingles at that time. In 1854 he opened his house as a hotel for tourists, and was often crowded by those who sought the lake to hunt and fish. In 1857 he sold the house to John Lamb, who made additions and repairs and run it for about a year ; then the house was partially de stroyed by fire. In i860 the property reverted to Mr. Barnum, and he kept it until 1866, when he sold his entire interest to William Leip. The first store opened at White Bear lake was by Daniel Getty in 1870 in a small building near the depot, in which he kept a general stock of merchandise. In 1875 he erected his store corner of Clark avenue ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 633 and Third street, two stories high, the upper story being fitted up for a public hall. The postoffice was opened by J. C. Murray who was ap pointed in 1858; he received for his pay the revenue of the office, which amounted, for the first year, to $2.35. Daniel Getty received the ap pointment January 1, 1871. His first year's returns from the office were $29. The village of White Bear was incorporated in April, 1881, with the following board of officers: Daniel Getty, chairman; J. C. Murray, L. L. Bacon, F. W. Benson, and P. H. Long, aldermen. For many years Daniel Getty, a veteran of the War for the Union, an energetic and useful citizen, was a leader in movements for the good of' the town in all its material, moral and religious interests. Along differ ent lines, William Leip was also active and efficient. These two perhaps the best known to outsiders, of all the men at White Bear, passed away some years ago, but left many worthy successors. The village proper, of White Bear, as distinguished from the numer ous cottage settlements around the lake, has about 2,000 inhabitants, with pavilion and waterfront, white bear lake a municipal organization, stores, factories, schools, churches, and all the elements of a permanent progressive town. It has direct connection with St. Paul, Stillwater and Minneapolis by branches of the Duluth railroad which unite here. It also has connection by electric line, via Wildwood, with an hourly service. White Bear lake is about six miles in diameter and has forty miles of shore line, all bluffs and slopes, beautifully wooded. Several steam boats and innumerable yachts and launches ply its waters, which are clear and cold and deep. Fishing, rowing and sailing are favorite summer recreations. It lies only ten miles from the business center of St. Paul, and is thus easily accessible by rail, electric car or automobile. There were formerly several large hotels on the lake, but these have mostly given place to clubs, "Blue Flower Inn," pavilion etc. Manitou island, connected'with the main land by a bridge, is covered with natural forests, trees of large growth arid of varieties distinct from those found in the 634 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY surrounding country. It is laid out with park-ways and walks, hand some lawns and lovely summer homes. The lake is almost encircled by the branches of the St. Paul and Still water electric line, which diverge at Wildwood, at the southeastern ex tremity of the lake. These branches give access not only to the perma nent village of White Bear, but to all the clusters of cottages and homes established at the frequent stations or stopping points. Wildwood is one of the show-places of the northwest, with all the features of a park, lake and summer resort, and offering everything in the way of clean, wholesome entertainment. As a place of pleasant recreation, Wild- wood's popularity is testified to by the thousands who avail themselves of its advantages every year. The handsome new brick Casino contains a splendid dance-hall, a restaurant and a broad observation porch over looking the lake, affording a fine resting place. Mahtomedi, founded thirty years ago as a Methodist summer colony, with a spacious amphi theater, Chautauqua circles, etc., has gradually become a very charming and unique home settlement for the hot months, with scores of congenial families rusticating on its rolling hills, under the grateful shade of its thick forests. Other groups of mansions and cottages are found at stations on the steam or electric lines among which are the following: Lakewood, Bellaire, Grove Park, Caledonia, Lake View, Dellwood, Cot- tagewood, White Bear Beach, Birchwood, Cottage Park, Lake Shore, Romaley Park and East Shore. Each of these groups or settlements constitutes, in a sense, a suburban town for the summer season. As a rule the residents are acquaintances in the city and maintain at the lake side, the social amenities to which they are accustomed. The "Island" and the "Peninsula," both, isolated from electric and rail transportation, have many fine residences, reached by carriage or automobile. Poetry and rhapsody have celebrated the delights of a summer at the lakeside, but neither has been able to exaggerate them. Bradner Mathews writes : "Yes, it is beautiful; this peaceful scene Of shimmering lake, deep in the woodland green, With happy, brown-kneed children, youth and maid, And elder folk in summer white arrayed, At tennis, golf, and boating — all at play, Wherewith they while these golden hours away." And White Bear has its legend. The Indians supposed it to be pos sessed with the spirit of a white bear, which was about to spring on to the wife of one of their young braves but was shot by him; and its spirit had haunted the island and lake since and had mysteriously disposed of several of their braves. One of the attractions of the village of White Bear is the Episcopalian church, St. John in the Wilderness, organized in 1861. The church was erected the same year on a lot situated near the east shore of Goose lake. The church was consecrated by Rev. Dr. Patterson of St. Paul, in August, 1861. It remained on that spot until the winter of 1874, when it was decided to remove it to its present location. In addition to White Bear, there are seven lakes in this township that are mapped and meandered, some of them quite extensive. Northwest one mile lies Bald Eagle lake, which occupies one and one-half sections ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 635 of land in this town and one-half section in Anoka county. A small is land near the center was the home of several bald eagles at the time of the government survey, and from this arose its name. A number of St. Paul families have quiet homes here. To the west of this we found Otter lake which took its name from the otters which were formerly found on its shores. A short distance to the west of this lies Wilkinson's lake, which occupies about one-half section of land, and was named in honor of Ross Wilkinson, who first took up a claim on its shores. A little more than one mile to the southwest of this is Pleasant lake, a large and beautiful sheet. More than thirty years ago Hon. C. D. Gilfillan of St. Paul acquired about three thousand acres of land around and ad jacent to this lake, as a means of preserving the purity of the city's water supply, of which it was then the ultimate source. He built a fine summer residence on its western shore. The entire property was after wards sold to James J. Hill, who has built up here his magnificent country estate. Here are great areas of park and pasture and meadow and field; preserves for deer and buffalo ; flocks and herds of high pedigreed domes tic animals. Here, within a gallon of gasoline from his city terminals, when wearied by the cares of empire, Mr. Hill can retire for rest and meditation, as far from the madding crowd as at his other favorite resort on the coast of Labrador. Still other lakes in this township worthy of mention and sometime to be stellar attractions of greater St. Paul are Lambert, Vadnais, and Bass- wood, with Kohlman's, Owasso and Johanna in Rose township near by. Mound's View Township Aside from White Bear, the only township in Ramsey county not wholly or partially absorbed by St. Paul, is Mound's View. This also remains, as yet, intact. It lies in the northwest corner of the county, ad joining Anoka and Hennepin. There are within its boundaries twenty lakes, large enough to bear names, some of them very beautiful, and destined, like scores of others scattered over the map of Ramsey county, to become popular resorts, when electrically connected with the Twin City, so near at hand. The lakes, streams and natural meadows of the town adapt it especially to stock growing and dairy business, to which branches the people of the town are turning their attention. On sections 9, 10, 16 and 17 a range of mounds extend, from which a fine view of the surrounding country may be obtained. From this fact the town derived its name. The names of the pioneers of this town should be handed down to posterity. It was their hard province to negotiate a rosy future from a thorny past. The country was covered with timber and brush, and dotted here and there by lakes and sloughs. The Sioux inhabited one side and the Chippewas the other, and as they were continually at war with each other, settlers were exposed to their depredations on both sides. Samuel Eaton was probably the first to settle in the town. In March, 1850, he, in company with William Fargo, made a claim on section 13; Eaton of the northeast quarter and Fargo of the southeast quarter. A few days later S. A. Thompson came out and found these men occupying a claim shanty and the three busied themselves in getting out logs to build dwellings. Mr. Thompson lived there many years, and was prominent in the politics of the county. The village of New Brighton is located on the western border of Mound's View township, on a line of the "Soo" Railroad and within 636 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY easy distance of electric connection with Minneapolis. It has a thrifty and enterprising population, with several flourishing industrial establish ments and a larger prospective development of its stock-handling and packing interests. It is thus seen that, outside the city limits of St. Paul, there are, in Ramsey county, three village organizations — North St. Paul, White Bear and New Brighton — and four township organizations, Mound's View, Rose, New Canada and White Bear. Rose Township as Suburban Territory Rose township, like New Canada, has lost half its territory to the city, but still retains its administrative autonomy, so to speak. The first set tlement made in the town of Rose was by Stephen Denoyer, in the spring of 1843, on the bank of the river, in section 32. The year following he located on the site where his old Half-Way house long stood. In the fall of 1843 Isaac Rose located on the same section, where he remained until 1846. In 1843 L. S. Furnell located on a small lake a little south of Lake Como. Other early settlers were Lewis Bryan, S. P. Folsom, Lorenzo Hoyt, W. B. Quinn, W. G. Hendrickson, A. G. Ford and D. A. J. Baker. The first roads opened in the town were the old Military road, St. Paul and St. Anthony, the St. Anthony and Como, the St. Paul and Lake Johannah, and the St. Paul and Lake Superior roads. The mania for town-site and out-lot speculations struck the land owners of Rose town as it did everybody else in the lively years of 1855-6, and many "additions," "parks," etc., were platted at long distances from the city. These lands reverted to farm and garden purposes, years before the city reached them. But the prescience of their enthusiastic, but too precipitate promoters is vindicated by the fact that Como Park, Hamline, the State Fair grounds, the agricultural college, the Minnesota Transfer, St. Anthony Park and many other interurban enterprises, are now located on ground then belonging in the resourceful township of Rose. It is a notable fact that from the three adjoining farms of W. G. Hendrickson, Lorenzo Hoyt and W. B. Quinn, near the present State Fair grounds, went forth their six or eight stalwart, capable sons, to achieve positions of honor in the professional and political life of the northwest. Reserve township, having all been incorporated in the Midway dis trict of St. Paul, is referred to in that connection. Suburban towns, directly tributary to St. Paul, situated in Washington county, on lines of existing railways and on prospective electric systems, are St. Paul Park, Newport, South Park, Cottage Grove, Lake Elmo, Red Rock (the Methodist camp-meeting site), Burlington Heights and others. Some of these suburban towns suffered for several years from the collapse of the boom which created them. But most of them have em erged from that depression and now constitute valuable adjuncts to the city. It seems that active promoters and great corporations are not the only bodies that can make cities spring suddenly out of the wilderness. The United States consul general at Hongkong writes that a little over a year ago Chinese capitalists began the construction of a modern Chinese city on the shore of Yehli bay, ten miles from Macao inner harbor. It will be ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 637 called Huengehow, and will differ from other Chinese cities in many modern ways thought to be' peculiarly significant. These differences lead the Chinese imperial maritime customs commissioner at Lappa to predict in his last annual report, as quoted by Mr. Anderson, that this new Chinese city, with all foreign comforts, will prove a great attraction to wealthy Chinese immigrants who are averse to going back to their old life in China, after having acquired foreign habits, liking and tastes, in Europe and America. Thus slow old China, the last word in inertia, caught the progressive spirit that overthrows dynasties, adopts "Get there Eli" as her motto, and begins a new career. Ramsey County's Fine Roads One element in the rapid development of St. Paul's suburban towns and lakeside resorts, is the increasing excellence of the county roads leading in every direction from the city. To the motor car tourist, who is, in the touring season, omnipresent and exacting, this is a crowning advantage. These roads are said to be the best in the state. Ramsey county now has a network of main thoroughfares macadamized or im proved with clay and gravel. It will not be long until all important county roads will be improved in a like manner. Much of the progress toward good roads in Ramsey county has been due to the work of J. H. Armstrong, county surveyor. A vital help, however, has been the way in which the city of St. Paul has supplied the funds. Ninety-five per cent of the money used for county road building have been donated by St.. Paul taxpayers. Mr. Armstrong's part was in seeing that these funds were not wasted. For many years the county had been patching roads. The roads never got better. There was enough money dissipated upon patching each year to build a long stretch of permanent roadway. The next year the same process was repeated with the result that there was no progress. Mr. Armstrong made a definite plan of improvements in volving a definite amount of construction work each year. His idea was to make permanent roadways upon main thoroughfares. He made his grades and his lines right, and then put in a macadam that lasts. In the meantime he keeps up the repairs upon permanent roadways. That is the secret of Ramsey county's progress in road-making in the past. few years, and that is one important contributory element in the upbuilding of her splendid suburbs. Suburban towns tributary to St. Paul were formerly regarded by busi ness men of the city as, to some extent, sapping its vitality, diffusing its energies and confusing its resources. But long and favorable experience has changed that feeling among the more thoughtful and discerning. It is found that they are real and generous feeders to our retail trade ; that a very large percentage of money paid out for wages by suburban manu facturers is spent in the city. stores; that the citizens of the tributary towns are as loyal to the traditions and the interests of the city,' as the average of her own people, and that all look forward to an organic union, with the greater St. Paul or with the Twin City of the future, as a mandate of imperious destiny. 638 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ii 1 1 ¦"¦::^B ..<¦-'-.¦'¦¦ . _ - ' lEMm Mm LiJEL:^ (> BJIBLimS SmfliHMHI . ;y THE TWIN CITY ST. PAUL AND MINNEAPOLIS CHAPTER LVIII THE TWIN CITY Only Divided "Municipally" — The Two Cities Betrothed — Com mercial Union — Hand of the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce — Minneapolis Declines — Reply of St. Paul Chamber of Commerce — Comparison with Other Great Cities — The Future Twin City — One Grand Union Depot — Development of Minneapolis When President Taft visited St. Paul in 1909, he found the senti ment of the people of this city and Minneapolis toward each other so much more friendly than that which he had observed when, in 1890, as solicitor general of the department of justice at Washington he became officially involved in the "census war," that he strongly advised an early consolidation into one municipality and suggested the name "Twin City" therefor. This suggestion for a name has since been followed to some extent by the newspapers, the singular form implying oneness, having partially superseded the plural terms "twin cities," "dual cities," "twins," etc., which have for thirty years been frequently employed to designate the two neighboring towns. A general adoption of the singular form of speech would merely signify a more universal recognition of the pre ordained fact, that the two towns, in real interest, in irrisistible tendency and in manifest destiny, are one. Only Divided "Municipally" St. Paul enjoys the unique distinction of being located immediately adjacent to another city of like proportions. The corporate limits of Minneapolis join those of St. Paul — only an imaginary line divides them. The business centers are ten miles apart, but the intermediate distance is well built up and the connecting streets are practically con tinuous. In fact, they are one city, geographically, commercially, socially and numerically. They are only divided so to speak "municipally." They have become famous as one business center, with everything in common except political boundaries. With an aggregate population of 500,000, this community now ranks as seventh in size and importance among the trade centers of the United States, New York, Chicago, Phil adelphia, Boston, Baltimore and St. Louis, being the only cities on the North American continent that exceed the Twin City in trade, population and wealth. Prophesies of this merger or consolidation have long been ventured. In July, 1866, the editor of this volume, then an unprejudiced visitor, noting the keen rivalry, wrote to his home paper at Quincy, Illinois : "If either city grows half as rapidly as both expect to grow, they will within 639 640 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY a generation become one magnificent metropolis, with Minnehaha Falls the sparkling ornament of a central park." Nearly twenty-five years ago serious movements towards a "union" were inaugurated. These proved premature, but now that the consummation is seen to be in evitable, and is admittedly a quarter of a century nearer its accomplish ment, that movement and later ones, deserve permanent record. On February 16, 1888, a meeting of representatives from the com mercial bodies of both cities was held at the St. Paul Chamber of Com merce. The Minneapolis delegation consisted of Judge Isaac Atwater, H. G. O. Morrison, T. B. Walker, D. D. McMillan, Nelson Williams, B. F. Nelson, O. C: Merriman, Leander Gorton, W. E. Steele, Clay Mc- Cauley, John S. Pillsbury and J. Newton Nind. St. Paul was repre sented by Dr. David Day, Thomas Cochran, Hon. H. M. Rice, ex-Gov. Alex Ramsey, W. P. Murray, J. W. McClung, E. V. Smalley, Bishop John Ireland, W. C. Wiley, A. S. Tallmadge, D. R. Noyes, Gen. J. T. Averill, Peter Berkey, W. M. Bushnell, Gen. J. W. Bishop, D. A. Robert son, M. N. Kellogg, D. D. Merrill, E. S. Norton and Capt. H. A. Castle. The Two Cities Betrothed Mr. McClung called the meeting to order. He said : "We have met to confer together upon the common interests and the common dangers of these two cities. We have not met to unite the cities under one name or one government. The union of the cities is a matter of the future, to come naturally by the logic of events and by evolution. What we need now is to recognize this fact, and by wise and united counsel and actions to shape that future and make the most of it. Twenty-five years of strife and rivalry have simply served to harden our muscles and develop our energies. We only desire by this conference to telegraph to the world that these two cities are to be one — not married now, but betrothed, and waiting the consent of all our relatives most interested. We wish simply to forecast the future and prepare for it. What those common interests and common dangers of both cities are, is for us to find in this conference and to provide for. I desire to nominate a gentleman whose heart has been large enough to take in both cities, and who has always received the most liberal evidences of respect and affection from both cities. I nominate Hon. Isaac Atwater as president of this conference. He is one of the oldest citizens of the ancient city of St Anthony, and has had experience in uniting the cities of St. Anthony and Minneapolis." Commercial Union On assuming the chair, Judge Atwater said: "The growth of the Twin Cities has been remarkable. Thirty years ago that gentleman (point ing to H. M. Rice) predicted that St. Paul and St. Anthony would form one great municipality. But if we have accomplished a great deal as separate cities, what may we not become working for common interests? But great and strong as we are, a great danger is looming up before us, and we will be wise men to foresee and prevent this danger. I do not believe there is a man in either city that is not heart and soul in favor ,of a commercial union. What the feeling is upon the question of one mu nicipality, I cannot say, although I am heartily in favor of it. United we need not fear ; without it we have good ground for apprehension." The secretary read an interesting letter from Rev. E. D. Neill, in ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 641 which he said: "For many years I have endeavored to impress on you and many other old friends that there is a better land than this, but this does not conflict with a strong conviction that there is no better land on this side of the dark valley than that upon which the Twin Cities stand." Bishop Ireland was urgently called for. The substance of his re marks was : "I am much gratified to see this effort toward the union of the two cities. I am charmed by the prospects of a union at some time. You gentlemen know I am not a business man, but I speak as a general observer. The old rivalry I always looked upon as a pleasant family joke. No railroad could come into St. Paul, without going to Minneapolis. No factory in one, but benefits the other. I am certainly gratified to see men come together today, representing the best interests of both cities. The union will come about some time or other. If we protest, the next genera tion will take it up and consummate it; but I don't want to wait until then. I am a man of the present day, and I want to enjoy some of the good things of life as I go along. It is very right and proper that the men of both cities, who have laid foundations and builded the state of Minnesota, should one day unite, cement and bless the union of both cities." Captain Merriman said : "This is not a new question. I have heard of it and talked of it for thirty years. We should act as one individual in protecting our railroad and navigation interests." Ex-Governor Ramsey said he thought a union of the two cities very desirable, and he would like to see it before he went hence. Ex-Governor Pillsbury spoke briefly, favoring cooperation on all subjects of mutual interest. Dr. Day said : "Philadelphia was formerly five different cities. Lon don, England, includes at present five different counties. Our object is to have this question so agitated that every man in both cities shall be anxious for the consummation of this union. I believe that we should every one of us, do as Bishop Ireland does — say we represent a city of 400,000 population. The time will come when either of the two cities will say like Ruth: 'Yes, I will go; thy people shall be my people, and thy God be my God.' " This meeting resulted in the appointment of committees from the pub lic associations of the two cities, which arranged for joint action in many matters affecting the common business interests. These arrangements, have been, from time to time amplified, and have continuously worked for the advantage of all concerned. In all questions of railroad development, freight charges, improvements of water ways, outside competition, etc., the cooperation among business men has been close and friendly. In 1890 certain citizens of St. Paul saw fit to call the attention of the United States authorities to alleged violations of law in taking the census of Minneapolis. This interrupted, for a time, the era of good feeling, but the final result, the conviction and punishment of the lawbreakers, seemed to fully justify the intervention. Hand of the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce The subject of the union of the cities was again brought before the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce in May, 1891, by a communication from a citizen of Minneapolis urging attention to it. This communication was referred to the committee of statistics and correspondence, which on May 15, 1891, through Henry A. Castle, chairman, submitted a report 642 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY which was received and placed on file. The following are extracts: "Up to this time it is probable that the competition and rivalry between the two cities has been beneficial to both, however seemingly excessive its occasional manifestations. Sharp collisions have been and are a standing menace of the situation, but no collisions can long paralyze the forces of mutual interest and reciprocal intercourse, which inexorably draw these communities together. The alleged animosities between our people, so notable to the outside world, have been to a great extent im aginary, based on a misinterpretation of our journalistic amenities. And even the period which seemed to develop moral or sentimental impedi ments to union, has brought transcendent physical elements in its favor. The interurban electric line, with its liberal transfer systems at the termini and its conclusive guarantees of prosperity to the Midway district, has done infinitely more to unite these cities than all combined adverse in fluences have done to separate them. "Your committee believes that the union of St. Paul and Minne apolis is practicable; that it would be mutually advantageous; that the time has come to seriously consider the means and methods of bringing about this result, and that the people of both cities are better prepared for their proper consideration than at any epoch in the past. Your com mittee has devised no scheme, nor has it tried to do so. We can only express our opinion as to the general proposition — the union of the two cities — which is referred to us. We recommend that this chamber place on record a decided expression in favor of that proposition. As to how and when the movement is to be inaugurated, the collective wisdom of this chamber must decide." On July 13, 1891, the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce adopted the following: "Resolved, That the president of this chamber appoint a com mittee of seven, of which number the president shall be one, to be known as the committee on the union of the Twin Cities, which committee shall have power to take such steps as appear to its members to be most ex pedient and proper to inaugurate a movement for the speedy union of St. Paul and Minneapolis. "Resolved further, That the chamber, through its president and sec retary, urgently request the Board of Trade of the city of Minneapolis to appoint a committee with similar powers to confer and act with the committee of this body." The president appointed, as the Twin Cities committee, M. D. Munn, chairman ; H. F. Stevens, H. A. Castle, George R. Finch, E. V. Smalley and W. H. Sanborn. A copy of the above was duly forwarded to the Board of Trade, Minneapolis. Minneapolis Declines On September 9th the following was received from the Minneapolis Board of Trade : "I herewith inclose copy of report of special committee appointed to consider your communication to our board relative to ap pointing a committee to take into consideration the union of the cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul, which report was duly considered and adopted at our meeting of this date. Yours truly, B. F. Nelson, President." The report thus transmitted expressed the opinion that the appoint ment of the committee requested would result in no advantage to Minne- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 643 apolis for these reasons : "The agitation of the question comes almost en tirely from parties engaged in land speculations between the two cities, and whose special object is to increase values on such property and can not be taken other than as the most biased view of the question. And several times in the past few years, twice at least by the Chamber of Commerce of St. Paul, committees of this kind have been asked for and appointed by this board. Such committees have accomplished nothing whatever toward the solution of the question, the representatives from that city having avoided as far as possible all consideration of the es sential point at issue, and used the time in general and incidental discus sion. The same course was pursued in all Twin City club meetings. From this, it became apparent that all of the talk of union meant only for our citizens to return to building up the interurban territory as they had been doing prior to the time that these anxious unionists coolly took the whole district into their city limits. This territory which separates the two cities proper by a space of some five miles makes it practically impossible to merge the two city governments into one over this extended area, consisting largely of farms and unsettled districts. In our judg ment the people of Minneapolis cannot afford to neglect our great op portunities and waste time in impracticable efforts to unite the two cities. We would therefore recommend that the request for a committee be respectfully declined. "Signed: O. J. Evans, T. B. Walker, J. T. Wyman, Committee." Reply of St. Paul Chamber of Commerce ' This document was on its receipt by the St. Paul Chamber of Com merce referred to its committee, consisting of Messrs. Munn, Stevens, Castle, Finch, Smalley and Sanborn, which on September 18, 1891, pre sented the following report which was adopted, thus closing the records for the time being: "Your committee appointed to confer with a com mittee from the Minneapolis Board of Trade on the union of the two cities, beg leave to report that the said Board of Trade declines the conference. This decision is announced in a report signed by a committee of the Board of Trade, which contains certain misstatements of fact and misinterpreta tions of motive requiring attention at our hands. "It is alleged by the Board of Trade committee that this agitation comes almost entirely from parties engaged in land speculation between the two cities. This statement is untrue. The fact is, the first suggestions of the matter were made to the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce by prom inent citizens of Minneapolis, which were referred to the proper com mittee of this chamber, whose chairman does not own and never has owned a foot of interurban land. That committee afterwards submitted a report containing a general indorsement of the ultimate union of the two cities. Later, another director of this chamber, who has no property in the Midway district, introduced a resolution under which was ap pointed this committee. That resolution proposed no scheme of union; it did not even commit this city or this chamber in favor of the union. It proposed simply a discussion of the subject with a view of ascertaining whether or not any practicable plan for such union could be devised. It was a friendly reception and indorsement by this chamber of those sug gestions and was inspired by no local or personal motive. The people 644 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY of St. Paul have for twenty-five years looked to this chamber for a cham pionship of all the larger interests of this city and this state, unbiased by factional or individual policies, and their trust has never been betrayed. "The Minneapolis committee charges that previous committees ap pointed by this chamber to confer on matters of cooperation have avoided as far as possible all consideration of the essential point at issue. By the term, 'essential point at issue,' is evidently meant the frequently reiter ated demands on the part of Minneapolis that St. Paul should surrender to that city certain square miles of its territory as a preliminary to the consideration of any measures of cooperation or reciprocity. As to this essential point your committee respectfully submit that while the St. Paul gentlemen who declined to yield to it loyally represent a unanimous sentiment of their fellow citizens, it is evident that by the union of the two cities all future development of the Midway district would equally benefit both Minneapolis and St. Paul. "The Board of Trade committee vaunts the superiority of Minne apolis,, yet in the same breath it plaintively chides St. Paul for declining to surrender certain conceded advantages, and thereby reduce itself to a fair equality with Minneapolis, so as to negotiate on a level. The ob liquity of vision which fails to detect this inconsistency is but one of the unique features of that report. The statement of the committee that a space of some five miles, consisting largely of farms and unsettled dis tricts, separates the cities proper, would even if it were true, be no prac ticable bar to a united municipality, since all of that territory is now under the laws and ordinances of one or the other city. But it is not true. There is no ground in the interurban district proper that is used for farming. In this district are the flourishing suburban villages of Union Park, Merriam Park, St. Anthony Park, Minnesota Transfer, Hamline, Macalester and Groveland, and it is nearly all platted into city lots and traversed by steam and electric lines. "The spirit of resentment which permeates said document is seem ingly based on the alleged unprovoked hostility of St. Paul toward Min neapolis, developed, within the past year. We refer to the records of the federal court as justifying the action of the St. Paul men who exposed the flagrant conspiracy to violate the national law, to which we presume refer ence is made, and this city has no more reason to apologize for that action than the law abiding people of Minneapolis have for cherishing a pro longed resentment. But we do not hold the whole people of Minneapolis responsible for the inconsistencies of this report of their Board of Trade committee. It may be true, as the committee alleges, that public opinion in Minneapolis is overwhelmingly unfavorable to municipal union under existing circumstances, although we have positive assurance to the con trary from some of the leading citizens of that city. We leave this ques tion to be settled between the Board of Trade and the people it professes to represent, satisfied that a subsidence of unworthy prejudices and un provoked resentments will at no distant day restore both the board and its constituents to an alert appreciation of their own interests. "St. Paul accepted these suggestions in good faith and willingly places that fact on record. The near future will fully vindicate our course. St. Paul and Minneapolis, in spite of prejudice and resentment and Board of Trade committees, are each day drawn nearer in interest, in feeling and in destiny. Opposition may delay,1 but cannot prevent their ultimate con solidation in one magnificent metropolis. "Your committee beg leave to recommend that the acceptance of the ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 645 overtures of certain citizens of Minneapolis for a discussion of the proposi tion for a union of the two cities and the request contained in the resolu tion adopted by' this chamber be reaffirmed. We recommend that all of the reports and resolutions on this subject, both of this chamber and of the Minneapolis Board of Trade, be spread upon our records and published in our next annual report." The report was unanimously adopted by the chamber, and there the matter rests to this day, on the face of the records. But the thoughts of the people, and their conversations and the suggestions of visitors, from President Taft to the transient magazine writer, constantly turn to the sub- ject of consolidation, with accelerated impetus — save where occasionally uninterrupted by some new cause of friction, like that of the proposed packing plant in 1909. The movement toward union is inexorable. The legal problems involved would, no doubt, be novel and intricate. Prece dents may be sought in vain for a similar case. But where destiny points the way, human acumen will find a commodious thoroughfare. Even Lon don, long the pseudonym of an inchoate aggregation of incongruous parish TWIN CITY STREET CAR LINES and municipal governments or no governments, surrounding the real city of only 30,000 inhabitants, ruled by an absurd and obsolete trades union system inherited from the cross-bow and quarter-staff era — even London has been reduced to a semblance of systematic oversight. Comparison with Other Great Cities Many elements have fixed this locality as the site of a splendid commer cial and industrial metropolis, for the magnitude of which the united areas of the two existing cities, extensive as they are, will within a few years, be inadequate. They stand, four hundred miles advanced beyond any possible rivalry, at the natural focus of a tributary empire, millions of square miles in extent, of unsurpassed agricultural and mineral resources and only in the infancy of its development. They easily dominate the golden heart of the North American continent. Their growth in the past has been phe nomenal. Their present condition is sound ,and promising. It will only be necessary to maintain the rate of progress established during the past few decades to place the Twin City among the three or four leaders in the nation. A financial expert and writer on business topics, who spent a 646 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY month here in 191 1 working on an article entitled The Twin City, the Future Metropolis of North America, said: "The Twin City shows greater improvement than any other city I have visited and I have been in practically all of the important cities of the world. The last time I was in St. Paul was in 1904, and I am amazed at the wonderful growth since that time. I am sure that shortly the Twin City will rank next to Chicago and New York in size and importance." The representative of a great New York life insurance company, visiting here about the same time, said: "I predict that in twenty-five years from now, the Twin City will be the political center of the United States. Also I believe it will be the financial center. I am greatly impressed with the development of this section of the country and the west, and have reason to believe that prosperity will continue." Some statistics relating to the area and population of the ten largest cities in the world, were recently compiled by a Yale College professor and furnish the basis for an interesting comparison with the Twin City, as follows: Area City in Acres Population London 441,600 7,252,963 New York 209,218 4,766,883 Paris 19,280 2,763,393 Tokio 27,989 2,186,070 Chicago ' 1 17,447 2,185,203 Vienna 39,686 2,085,888 Berlin 16,608 2,070,665 St. Petersburg 22,901 1,678,000 Philadelphia 81,828 1,549,008 Moscow 17,654 1,359,254 Twin City 68,640 532,000 Paris, according to_ these figures, has a population of 143 per acre; Berlin 131 ; Philadelphia 18, and the Twin City less than 8 per acre. When we realize that practically all the great social troubles which the world has ever gone through are measurable in intensity by the ratio of the density of urban population as compared with rural population, as well as by the magnitude and density of metropolitan population itself, it is at once apparent that the Twin City, the gateway of the northwest, presents to the world unique, and let us hope, encouraging, phenomena. The Future Twin City The Twin City is the only metropolis in the history of the world that ever developed to half a million population with the great commercial center of its municipal area yet practically unoccupied. As the man at the foot of the ladder has the best of climbing possibilities, so the vacant spaces between two compact areas have the best assurances of develop ment. . The immense significance of this situation, not only to the United States but to the entire North American continent, and to the world, is certainly one which deserves some consideration. Midway, in time, will become the great retail district of the Twin City, and the present busi ness center of St. Paul proper will become the great jobbing center, be cause St. Paul has both land and river transportation. As operating ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 647 expenses of railroads increase and government makes the projected im provements in the Mississippi river, transportation will certainly be one of the great factors in the jobbing world here. In a few years St. Paul will be shipping direct to the old country and through the Panama canal to our Pacific coast and western South America. That the movement towards organic union, inaugurated twenty-five years ago, as herein stated, is still going on, irresistibly, if silently, is occasionally demonstrated. At a dinner given the retail merchants of -Minneapolis by the retail merchants division of the St. Paul Association of Commerce, on the roof garden of the St. Paul, in the summer of 191 1, the gentlemen present found themselves instinctively impelled by the Twin City spirit, for the simple reason that it is in the air and every body has it. "Sentiment for union is growing," said W. L. Harris of Minneapolis, "and some day we shall wake up and find that the only thing needed to make the cities one is a little paragraph on the statute books." "We ought to have one giant organization combining the busi ness interests of the two cities," said Mr. C. W. Gordon, of St. Paul, after explaining the organization of the Association of Commerce, and predicting that Minneapolis would soon have a similar unification of all commercial bodies. The "Pageant of the Twin City," as presented by ladies of Merriam Park, at an entertainment, November 16 and 17, 191 1, was significant of popular interest in the proposition. It was a semi-historic and semi- idealistic series of tableaux, demonstrating that it is possible to nego tiate a rosy future from a rugged but honorable past. The past was comprised in six living tableaux representing prominent events and people in early Merriam Park life. The present particularly appealed to every man, woman and child, who now has the honor of holding mem bership in that splendid community, and better than all, we were ushered into some of the conservatories and galleries of the imagination, and through prophetic eyes were given at least a glimpse of the industrial and civic grandeurs with which the Near Future, overburdened with waiting, is impatiently rapping at our door, eager to heap upon us her bounteous treasures. It would be instructive, and somewhat germane to our immediate purpose, to present in this chapter a table of statistics, showing the ag gregate business done this year in the Twin City, covering the jobbing trade, manufactures, bank clearings, receipts and shipments of freights, etc. But in all these particulars, the increase is so rapid and constant, that the figures of any given date become obsolete in a month or two, and are thenceforward misleading. A recapitulation of some of the pronounced advantages and trade and industry will serve to show the impregnable foundation on which their prosperity rests. All of the advantages enumerated are enjoyed by each city and are common to both ; they would pertain to either, if the other did not exist ; applied to the combination, their, significance is incontestible. The Twin City stands at the great natural gateway of a commercial empire. It commands the resources of a million square miles of the most productive land in America, rich in fertility, water power, and tim ber; of inexhaustible mineral wealth, and with a network of steam rail roads centering here which reach out over 40,000 miles. It has water connections with the south through the Mississippi river and with the east through the Great Lakes. It is surrounded by the greatest stock- raising and dairying districts of the country. All points northwest of a 648 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY line drawn through Sault Sainte Marie and Des Moines, Iowa, are nearer to the Twin City than to Chicago, and in this mighty territory there is no location as favorably situated for a great metropolis. It is a trade mart, fixed by the law of supply and demand, with conditions that readily admit of favorable comparison with those of the most prosper ous American cities, whose limitations confine them to a local territory about five hundred miles in extent, as instance the following: Class Phil adelphia, Baltimore and Boston with New York, we have New York to Buffalo and Pittsburgh; Pittsburgh and Buffalo to Chicago; Chicago to Kansas City, Omaha, St. Paul and Minneapolis; Kansas City and Omaha to Denver; Denver to Ogden; Ogden to Helena, each equidistant about five hundred miles. The single exception is St. Paul and Minneapolis to Helena. It will be observed that the Twin City is without a rival in all that vast extent of country covered by the Northern Pacific, the "St. Paul" and Great Northern railroads, corriprising in extent, a stretch of territory four hundred miles in width and in length equal to the distance from New York City to the Mississippi river. In addition to this ter ritory we have central and southern Minnesota ; South Dakota ; northern, central and western Iowa; Nebraska, Kansas and Colorado. In outlin ing the territory west of Sioux City and Omaha, as being tributary to the Twin City, we are not speculating. Our distance to Sioux City is 270 miles, the distance from Chicago is 525. Our distance to Omaha is 370 miles; the distance from Chicago to Omaha is 500 miles. The dis tance from Chicago and the Twin City to Kansas City is practically the same, or 500 miles. One Grand Union Depot One proposition, looking toward a more rapid development and an earlier realization of the Twin City idea, is that of building a grand union depot at a point near University avenue, equidistant between the two business centers. This scheme, at the present writing, does not seem to be near realization, but the arguments urged in its favor are interest ing and suggestive. They may be summarized thus : In cities of less than 100,000 inhabitants it is desirable that trains shall deposit their passengers close to the business center of the city. But in larger cities this is no longer possible, and by some is held to be undesirable. The reason for the conclusion is that the railroad terminals of a large city, if adequate to the needs, take up directly and indirectly an immense amount of space, require the closing of streets and" this interferes with the development and growth of a city. Up to the present time an effort has been directed toward enlarging the present facilities in already con gested districts. In fact St. Paul had its lesson in the subject, for in 1901 and 1902 extensive enlargements were made to its Union station by doubling the size of its train shed and adding several new tracks, the ground being procured by narrowing the river channel at great expense. These enlarged facilities were practically inadequate at the time of their completion. Taking into consideration the relative location of these two cities, their unity of business relations, the simplicity of the railroad trackage connecting them and the possibilities of selecting ample sites in either city for the construction of union depots, removed from their present congested sites, it would appear that a location might readily be selected for one union station to serve both communities, or, at least that ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 649 the plan will receive very serious consideration, with a view to the require ments of future years. A disinterested outside expert in railroad operation says: "To con struct two union stations at this northwest gateway, within ten miles of each other, costing approximately $4,000,000 each, would be an economic error. It would also tend, in no small measure, to continue the indi viduality of these two cities, which is not to be desired, and it would not afford the traveling people the simplicity of service which one union station with individual borough and suburban stations would afford." Development of Minneapolis All the time the two segments of the future Twin City continue to develop and expand, growing in every direction, but especially growing toward each other, growing together, growing into one. Minneapolis, by the census of 1910, had a population of 304,000, and aside from any present or prospective community of interest and destiny is manifestly entitled to honorable mention, in any description of St. Paul and vicinity. In 1838 the Indian title to this locality was extinguished and the first settlement was made at the Falls of St. Anthony. The attraction was the immense water power afforded by the falls. This is now said to have been the origin of Minneapolis, but it was in truth the beginning of St. Anthony, for the original Minneapolis was confined to the west side of the river, and its settlement did not begin until 1850. Two years later the little village of Avon was platted, the name being subsequently changed to Minneapolis. Such was the beginning of what has in the space of sixty years grown to be one of the great cities of the country, the "twin cities" of Minneapolis and St. Anthony, once the bitterest of rivals, having long since been merged into one. The special facility which developed the struggling frontier settle ment to a metropolis is the power furnished by St. Anthony Falls, which is equivalent to 35,000 horse power. This alone would have been suffi cient to draw population and capital. Added to this, however, was the heavily timbered pine region near the upper river, and convenient to float the logs down to the mills. Still another element of prosperity was the nearness to one of the greatest wheat-growing regions in the world, where the hard variety of fife wheat was a certain crop. This could also be brought to Minneapolis mills with facility and ground into the best quality of flour. These gave Minneapolis its start, and, having once become famous for its lumber and flour, and being withal situated in the midst of a country eminently suitable for general agriculture and with various materials for manufacturing within easy reach, it is not strange that it grew speedily into prominence. As a jobbing center, Minneapolis has been developing rapidly. The principal lines dealt in are agricultural implements, flour, lumber, sash and doors, wheat, furniture, men's furnishing goods, fruit, garden seeds, rubber goods, structural iron, furs, shoes, confectionery, groceries and dry goods. The aggregate jobbing trade is estimated at $300,000,000 annually. ' The largest flour mills in the world are located in Minneapolis and they produce a daily average of 70,000 barrels of flour, of the finest grade, that is shipped to every country, and the quality and quantity of this flour have made the city famous. This is flour enough to feed 15,000,000 people or one-sixth of the entire population of the United 650 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY States. Minneapolis is also a great lumber market and one of the lead ing manufacturing centers for that industry. There are 6 national banks; 9 state banks; 4 savings banks and 2 trust companies, with an aggregate capital of $8,775,000. The assessed valuation of real and personal property is $190,000,000. The same 25 railroad lines, 5 of them transcontinental, that radiate from St. Paul, naturally and necessarily reach Minneapolis, with equal facilities. There are nearly 200 churches in the city. Its public school system is unsur passed. There are several colleges, besides the great Minnesota Uni versity, with its 5,000 students and its numerous departments, described in another chapter. There are 18 beautiful parks, besides a comprehensive boulevard sys tem. The public library occupies its own handsome building, and the new auditorium furnishes conveniences for large assemblages. The court house and city hall occupies a full block, 600 feet square, and is of massive and magnificent architecture. There are many splendid business blocks and office buildings. The hotels are widely renowned for their sumptuous appointments. The electric street car service, under one cor porate management in the two cities, is equal to any in America. From this it will be seen that Minneapolis, which has not been in the past an unworthy competitor with St. Paul for popular favor, would not be, in the future, an unworthy life-partner. That, in approaching the inevitable consummation, neither city will surrender any of its self-re spect, or its supposed advantages, or its pride of past achievement, may be confidently assumed. The competition will go on, the rivalry will con tinue, but with an increasing friendliness, born of mutual interest and reciprocal regard, until the Twin City becomes an accomplished fact. The name to be adopted for the consolidated metropolis is, for the pres ent, a minor consideration. We shall not lack for names. The whole nation stands ready to help us choose. A New York paper, with writers who swing freely on linguistic gates set rigid to all others, has proposed "Didemopolis," but fails to extort any favorable response. From the ever faithful Midway district comes the suggestion "Minnesota City," which has elements of pertinence. When we have the will we will find the way and we will find the name. Meantime the vision of the Twin City looms large and larger on the horizon with some of its features growing in attractiveness and distinctness every year. CHAPTER LIX ELEMENTS OF ST. PAUL'S PRESENT GREATNESS The Men of 1848 and Earlier — Geographical and Natural Ad vantages — National Civic, Military and Railway Center — Municipal, Social, Commercial, Artistic and Charitable — What Census Firures Show — Climatic Advantages — Tributary Acres Easily Cultivated — -Statistical Information — Jobbing and Manufacturing — Wholesalers and Farmers Backed by Capital — Produce Commission Business — Telegraph and Telephone- Service — New York No Longer Western Standard — The Greater St. Paul to Come Cities, states and nations, like all things of enduring worth, have their existence not only in what they are at the present time, but also in which they were in the past and in what they will be in the future. That which they are, is the result of their past; and their future is the justification of their present state. A city is the result of the wisdom of its founders, as well as of the thousand and one elements and inci dents which have pushed it from a wilderness to a village, and from a village to a city — a metropolis. The Men of 1848 and Earlier St. Paul has always cherished its past and honored its worthy citi zens of preceding epochs. As early as June 14, 1849, two weeks after the territory of Minnesota was organized in this city, the Pioneer paid this tribute to the men of 1848 and earlier : "It is proper for those who are flocking into our territory, to know who those men are who were here, struggling with privations before Minnesota had a name in the world. They are the men who, by their voluntary exertion, sustained our delegate on his mission to Washington, for the accomplishment of what, few believed, could then be accomplished — the recognition of our rights as a territory, distinct from Wisconsin. Every territory, in its earlier days, has its times that try men's souls. The inception of a state, whether settled by the peaceful pioneer, or baptized by the blood of a border warfare, has its trials and troubles. How darkly hung the cloud of doubt over this region of the northwest, one year ago. How like the glorious sunlight, did the first intelligence from our delegate to Washington last spring, burst through that cloud of doubt. There were men here, who, from the beginning, saw the end. We respect, we reverence those men. Let the men and the women of those days be remembered." These pre-territorial men were fearless, energetic and enterprising. 651 652 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 653 They could have said, as Andrew Johnson said in the senate at the be ginning of the Rebellion when threatened with the vengeance of his fellow southerners: "I want to say, not boastingly, with no anger in my bosom, that these two eyes of mine have never looked upon any thing in the shape of mortal man that this heart has feared." Such were the men who founded St. Paul and Minnesota. This was the early St. Paul spirit, as shown in deeds of splendid daring and undying fruitfulness. Its present speaks for itself, and its future prosperity is, in a larger measure, dependent upon the foresight, enterprise and practical common sense of its present inhabitants. Such is St. Paul. Its past is not in the dim and musty distance of tradition; its glorious present reveals itself in unmistakable terms, and its future is in the hands of the people of today. Thus all its epochs are correlated and interdependent, each one on its predecessor. St. Paul is fortunate beyond most American cities, in natural fea tures; in advantageous location; in a youth that has not been misspent; in the character of its founders and its citizens; in the plans that are being developed along many lines, physical, industrial, educational, artis tic, humanitarian, for a great future, and unlimited expansion. Seventy years ago even the rudiments of a city did not exist. Sixty years ago it had not yet earned a place upon the map. Fifty years ago, with a few thousand inhabitants, it was just beginning its conscious civic existence. Today, with a population of nearly a quarter of a million, it yet stands upon the threshold of life and may well look forward to centuries of growth , and attainment. The methods and processes by which its de velopment has been achieved, together with brief references to the men who achieved it, and mention of some of their characteristics, have been set forth in the preceding chapters. This chapter will be substantially. a recapitulation of the conditions and events which have produced the splendid results we see today, with special emphasis on the more impor tant elements that contribute to the city's present greatness. Geographical and Natural Advantages Its location and the almost limitless resources of its tributary re gions, its scenic attractions and its salubrious climate are only the more obvious of its claims to supremacy. It is situated at the head of naviga tion of one of the great rivers of the world, whose importance as a com mercial waterway is likely to be vastly enhanced during the next few years by the completion of the Panama canal, and possibly by the con struction of a canal to the head of Lake Superior, making a continuous water route to the Gulf of Mexico on the south and thence to the Pacific ocean, and to the Atlantic ocean on the east. It stands on the border of one of the richest territories in the world, abounding in farm products, mines and forests ; it f orfns the connecting link between this great region and its eastern markets, and constitutes the distributing center for all forms of manufactured articles destined to supply the northwestern trade. At the lowest point St. Paul is 700 feet above sea level and at the highest 1,016. Owing to this, to its exceptionally fine and bracing cli mate, to its abundant supply of pure water and admirable sewerage sys tem, it is one of the most healthful cities in the world. Lying along the banks of the Mississippi and in part on the high bluffs overlooking the 654 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY river and surrounding country, it commands beautiful views, of which advantage has been taken by many who have built homes here. .Its area is 54.44 square miles and has 800 miles of streets and boulevards. Fifteen hundred acres have been reserved or condemned for parks, and this territory is constantly being improved and added to. St. Paul has in Como Park one of the finest bits of wild woodland and water in the United States. The views along its parked and artistically planned river drives are beautiful and remind one of the palisades of the Hudson, and other well-known bits of American scenery. The city is richly pro vided with churches, with hospitals, with schools and colleges. There are many excellent hotels, restaurants and places of amusement. National Civic, Military and Railway Center St. Paul is the capital of Minnesota; it is also the port of entry for the state, and the office for the collection of internal revenue for the district of Minnesota is situated here. Here also is located one of the six most important military stations of the United States, Fort Snell ing, with a reservation of 2,381 acres, which the -war department plans to garrison soon as a brigade post. The postoffice, with its five branches, contributes nearly $1,500,000 annually to the United States postal reve nues ; branch departmental headquarters for several divisions of the mail service are located here. The largest State Fair in America is held here every fall, on grounds covering 200 acres, with an annual attendance of 600,000. Ten great railroad systems, controlling twenty-five lines, radiate from St. Paul, reaching every part of the continent, and their enormous vol ume of in and out freight is indicated by the utilization of the second largest freight transfer trackage in the world. One of the largest loans in the history of finance, which may well be characterized as epoch making, was recently consummated here in connection with one of these roads. Immense establishments have been built up, so congesting the business district that a vast project is on foot so to change the course- of the Mississippi as to throw many hundreds of acres of reclaimed land into the heart of the city's business area, in order to provide for the inevitable commercial expansion. Municipal, Social, Commercial, Artistic and Charitable St. Paul has excellent fire and police departments and a Board of Control, which has charge of the public charities. Its water supply is the purest of any large city and the most abundant. It has eight na tional banks, three state banks, several private banks, three sa vings . banks and two trust companies. There are numerous clubs, both social and commercial, and a number of large trade organiza tions. Many noteworthy buildings have been recently erected or are in course of construction. Among them the State Capitol, the new Cathedral and the Municipal Auditorium, are of national reputation. Others well worthy of mention are the St. Paul Hotel; the Y. M. C. A. and Y. W. C. A. buildings; the Lowry Arcade; the Commercial build ing; the new wing, of the City Hospital, and the new Central High School, as well as a large number of handsome and modern factories and jobbing houses. In art and architecture, in music and in progressive ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 655 methods of education, in civic improvement, and in important works of charitable intent, St. Paul is pushing upward and onward, to the end that it may keep pace in these essential matters with the marvelous ma terial development it has enjoyed in the past, and which seems opening out in the future in ever widening vistas. For what shall it profit a city to be rich and powerful if it have not the disposition and the under standing to make the wisest use of its golden opportunities. St. Paul, in a business way, is increasing about 30 per cent a year. Its retail trade in 1910 was over $100,000,000.00. On June 5, 191 1, one store made a retail record by selling nearly $36,000 worth of goods in one day. On the same day a jobbing house started a great sale to mer chants only and disposed of goods amounting to over a quarter of a million dollars in one day. As the result of the contemplated enlarge ment of its Union Depot yards, by changing the channel of the Missis sippi river, it will have the best depot facilities in the country — room for thirty-two parallel tracks, which is enough to accommodate a city of a million inhabitants. St. Paul has 250 steam passenger trains in and out daily. A new electric trolley line is being surveyed down the river to Lake City. Stillwater, North St. Paul, South St. Paul, West St. Paul, Inver Grove, White Bear, Minneapolis and other nearby towns are already connected with this city by ten interurban and suburban lines. St. Paul has a population of a full quarter of a million, including the population of its immediate suburbs that for all practical purposes are parts of it. At South St. Paul is located the largest packing plant in the north west. Figures for 191 1 are not available at this writing, but those of 1910 for the stock yards and packing houses broke all previous records. 34,280 car-loads of live stock were received in 1910, an increase of 6,158 cars over 1909. Our shipments in 1910 amounted to 16,796 cars, as against 13,325 cars shipped out in 1909, an increase of 3,471 cars 521,820 head were sold in 1910, as against 400,699 head in 1909, an in crease of 30 per cent. Outshipments are made from South St. Paul to points in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois and the far East. Illi nois consumed in 1910, 72,075 head of South St. Paul slaughtered stock. Iowa consumed 49,619 head; Minnesota, 36,849; Wisconsin, 16,268. The "far east" (points beyond Illinois) consumed 38,082 head. What Census Figures Show A loyal, local magazine, the Razoo, makes an effective appeal to of ficial records in demonstrating some of the city's elements of supremacy, thus : "Census figures show that St. Paul is the healthiest city in the coun try. Census figures show that St. Paul led every large city in the coun try in the percentage of increase in number of industrial wage earners during the last five years, its increase being 35 per cent. Census figures show that St. Paul led every large city in the country in the percentage of increase in wages paid by manufacturers during the last five years, the increase being 59 per cent. Census figures show that St. Paul led every large city in the country in the percentage of increase in the value of materials used in manufacturing establishments, the increase being 55 per cent. Census figures show that St. Paul led every large city in the country in the percentage of increase of capital invested in manufactur ing, the increase being 66 per cent." 656 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Climatic Advantages The climatic advantages found here are a substantial asset. The at mosphere of Minnesota is dry, clear, and pure. It is seldom that a re freshing breeze is not felt, even on the stillest summer day. The nights of summer, almost without exception, are cool. The winters are enjoy able on account of the bracing dry air, stimulating activity and out-door exercise. The dryness of the air diminishes its capability of conducting heat from the body, and men and animals suffer much less here from cold than in a climate of even a slightly greater proportion of dampness. The coldest periods are always of brief duration — seldom exceeding from three to five days. In this state of 400 miles between the north and south border lines there is often a great difference in temperature. In St. Paul, during the winters, it is frequently twenty-five or thirty degrees milder than on the Canadian border. The clear dry cold of the winter combined with the crystal lakes, the swiftly flowing streams and the fresh breezes of summer; the entire absence of humid air and stagnant water; account for the fact that malaria and its diseases are unknown. Hence the healthy vigor of the average citizen, and the health-restoring boon to thousands of visitors. Tributary Acres Easily Cultivated Another controlling element of St. Paul's rapid growth has been the comparative ease with which its tributary acres have been brought under cultivation. Compared, for instance, with the counties of northern Ohio, now among the richest in the nation, the process of subjection has been facile indeed. That country was covered with growth of hickories, oaks, elms, and maples, the like of which could not be found anywhere else, and millions of feet of this timber were shipped every year to England and Europe for ship-building purposes and other uses. The towns were little islands cut out in this sea of verdure, with the roads like tunnels under the high, overarching trees. Before the land could be utilized for farming purposes, great ditches had to be dug for drainage and the trees cut off. The pioneers wore themselves out in the hard struggle with the conditions, in felling trees, removing stumps, building fences, digging great drainage ditches and struggling with the malaria of the rich soil newly turned up to the sunshine. Now the great Pennsylvania railroad runs through this region on a high, firm embankment as solid against the rains and moisture as any in the nation, with an open country on either side as far as the eye can see, The towns are high and dry, with good pavements ; good street railroads; fine public and private buildings, and every evidence of the thrift of the rich agricultural country surrounding them. The level fields of black muck laugh with abundant crops of clover, on which sleek cattle stand knee deep and fine thoroughbred sheep lay on a wealth of flesh and wool. Not only the great trees are gone, but the stumps also. But it required over a hundred years of time and exhausted three generations of pioneers to get the results that a single generation of Minnesotans accomplished. Jobbing and Manufacturing It is only fifty-five years since Bruno Beaupre established the first wholesale house in St. Paul; today there are six hundred jobbing houses, ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 657 some of them the largest of their kind in the country; employing more than twenty-five thousand people; representing at least three hundred different lines ; and with an annual trade of a half billion dollars. More than seven hundred manufacturing plants, with 20,000 employes, have a yearly output of $59,000,000. No more accurate test of growth and prosperity can be found than that indicated by the volume of in and out freight. In 1910, 220,832 carloads of freight entered the city, and 165,808 carloads were carried out. St. Paul is the great fur center of America, both for manufacturing and trading. It is not exceeded by any city, in amount of capital in vested or extent of business handled, in the allied lines of drugs and chemicals, or in the wholesale dry goods trade. It ranks high among the largest jobbing and manufacturing centers in the output of groceries and foodstuffs ; harness and saddlery and other leather goods ; boots and shoes; hats, caps and gloves; men's furnishings; hardware, both light and heavy ; millinery ; confectionery ; rubber shoes and garments ; tobacco, cigars and beer. St. Paul possesses the largest manufactory of grass twine and its derivative products in the country; the largest law publish ing house in America, and perhaps in the world. The stockyards are competing even with those of Chicago. It is celebrated as a commercial art center, and its pictured calendars find their way all over the country. Its great printing establishments do an enormous business outside as well as in the city. Banks and newspaper offices send here for their equipment and outfits. Among the more important manufactures are sash and door products and every form of interior woodwork; refriger ators, of which there are two of the largest manufactories in the country; wheels for heavy machinery and farm equipment; malleable iron work; steam fire engines; auto trucks; derricks, hoisting apparatus and gun carriages. It has large concerns dealing in paint, varnish and the various forms of linseed oil; in cement and brick made from its own sand; in stone taken from its own quarries. The fact that so large a market has been built up in St. Paul, is one of the elements of its strength, and the ability of our jobbers to favor their customers, in emergencies is another strong point. The trend of trade is towards the house which is located where other big concerns in the same business are established, for the retailer naturally looks to this group as his market, and when he goes forth to buy he seeks the city where he can plant himself in the center of the things he wants and see them circle around him in lively competition ; where he can see the largest stocks and most complete array of the season's offerings. The house which is out of the favored zone and which is located in a community not regarded as the principal market, is handicaped by this situation, even though it may be as worthy of patronage as the concerns in a town that has syndi cated its offerings. These facts are true from an economic standpoint, and no argument can make them otherwise. The merchant who most fully realizes the advantages of trading in a large market and trading in one which has a line of goods carefully selected for the northwest de mand, is the merchant who will do best by himself and his customers. St. Paul wholesalers many times in the past have acted like a father with a long pocket book in relation to their dealers and have carried them through many a small crisis. These acts have not been forgotten, nor has the advice along business lines which was freely extended in times of need. These are the things our jobbers are known for. They are 658 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY the things which are "thrown in," as it were, when a retailer deals here. They are, also, things well worth striving to get. Wholesalers and Farmers Backed by Capital In carrying out this policy of financial assistance, the banks of St. Paul have been of infinite service. This is specially true in times of poor crops or in seasons when the farmers of a particular locality have been unable to get the prices for their grain which will enable them to pay their bills. When a country is being developed there is a good deal of credit extended to the country merchants. It is in this emergency that strong and stable financial backing for the jobber is of assistance to his customers. If the banks of the city in which the wholesale house is located have sufficient capital to extend the jobber the credit he needs to buy goods and pass it on to the retailer with the privilege of future payment, then the jobber can serve the retailer to the maximum. Over the country the banks of St. Paul have the reputation of being stable ¦ institutions, which in times when the banks in other cities are hedging in order to weather some financial crisis, have stood by their friends and have helped to pull the whole country in their vicinity through its troubles. The banking business of the city has been built up by conser vative management, and although the bankers do not shy at a thing merely because it is new, they are men who know the value of money. In dealing with the jobbers whose business is established on a firm basis, they are ever ready to extend as much credit as they can in order that the wholesalers may be as liberal as possible with the retailers of the northwest. The banks, capitalists and loan agencies of St. Paul perform another highly important function to the tributary country — that of furnishing funds to the farmers for the development and extension of their hold ings. It is not uncommon for the product of one year's work to half pay for the farm on which it is raised. Then the farmer wants better build ings and more land. The value of land is constantly increasing and the farmers have little difficulty in negotiating loans on their farms. But much of this money comes from St. Paul, or is brought from the east by men here who are familiar with farm conditions. Although the cities, with their aggregations of wealth, are often condemned by un thinking people, the fact remains that the money which has been piled up by the captains of industry has helped those with smaller surplus to get ahead in the world. Bankers and business men keep a close eye on the northwest. As the country develops can St. Paul develop, and no faster. The city cannot grow more rapidly than the country behind it, without danger to economic stability. For this reason men in St. Paul are giving their time and their money to bring additional settlers to the farms of the northwest. They are also spending their money in stimulating the farmers to raise larger crops and increase the profit of their operations. Produce Commission Business On May 31, 1880, twenty-seven of St. Paul's foremost citizens ap peared before Frederick G. Ingersoll, notary public, and placed their sig natures to a document which was later filed under the title, "The St. Paul Board of Trade," and from that small beginning has since de veloped one of the most important produce markets in the country, with ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 659 sales aggregating more than $3,000,000 a year. These men included P. Van Auken, J. T. McMillan, William R. Merriam, Charles Mcllrath, James I. Jellett, John J. Watson, P. H. Kelly, L. A. Gilbert, Maurice Auerbach, George L. Becker, D. Schutte, H. M. Butler, J. Q. Adams, Michael Doran, Crawford Livingston, Charles A. Wall, C. H. Bigelow, William Constans, R. Barden, William A. Van Slyke, John McAuley, L. H. Maxfield, Julius Austrian, Charles W. Chase, John J. Penner, A. H. Wilder, and Charles N. Bell. Third street, above Jackson, was then the city's fashionable prome nade. All the banks, the fine retail stores, the newspaper offices, the lawyers, doctors, dentists and milliners, were located there. Now it is "Commission Row" and there anything in the line of fruits or vege tables raised in the United States, or in any part of Europe, can be purchased. Nuts and fruits, with delicacies from sunny Italy, from figs to filberts, can be bought at wholesale. Hops and malt are also on the market. From these one can go down the line with cream, eggs. butter, cheese, ice cream, vegetables, veal and poultry. In former years game was a staple on the Row, and more than one of the successful firms doing business today got its start at the time that game was not hedged about with so much protection as at present. Minnesota butter ite handled extensively out of St. Paul and there are now stored in New York warehouses thousands of tubs of butter which were negotiated for on Third street. Growth of the produce business has been rapid the past few years, but is still only in its infancy. As a fruit market Third street deals in consignments from Florida, Georgia, New York, Michigan, Illinois, Oregon, California, Arizona — everywhere, including Minnesota. Until within a few years there has been skepticism as to the adaptation of Minnesota soil and climate to fruit raising. This doubt is rapidly disappearing. The valuation placed on the fruit crop of Minnesota for 1909 was $25,000,000. Many kinds of fruit are grown in the state, although the small fruits do better as a rule. From Fillmore county alone eighty carloads of apples were shipped. Manufacturing enterprises, as stated in the chapter devoted to that subject, are expanding with strides that astonish our own people. In October, 191 1, a party of St. Paul business men, on the second "See St. Paul First" trip visited the works of the American Hoist and Derrick Company at the south end of the Robert street bridge. They there learned for the first time that locomotives are made in St. Paul. They saw a locomotive crane, of which fourteen made in this city are now at work on the big ditch at Panama. They saw machinery in various processes of completion, destined for Argentina, for Java, for Cuba, Mexico and Porto Rico. They learned that frequently orders come to this concern to be sent to Japan and Hawaii. There are 700 men em ployed in the various departments, and annually about 500 engines of various shapes and sizes are made, as well as 400 or more derricks. The engines constitute, however, about one-fourth of the output of the plant. In the foundry the concern uses about fifteen tons of iron each day in casting forms which make up all the various portions of machines manufactured. All the parts used in the engines and derricks are made in the plant, including the various smaller brass parts of the engines. This is merely a sample of the surprises which greet our best in formed people, when they take time to inspect the industries which have grown up in this city so quickly as to have escaped their notice. 660 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY Telegraph and Telephone Service The rank which St. Paul has attained in its superior telegraph and telephone service, is one of its claims to metropolitan eminence. These indispensible adjuncts of modern life, luxuries half a generation ago, domestic necessities today, have nowhere reached a higher degree of usefulness, or more general patronage. The Western Union and the Postal Telegraph companies have headquarters offices here; the Tri- State and the Northwestern Telephone companies serve an enormous local clientage and supply long-distance facilities reaching every corner of the nation. The last named exchange now has, in round figures, a quarter of a million subscribers. Like a great nervous system, it spreads over the whole surface of the states of Minnesota, North and South Dakota, penetrating into remote districts and bringing more than three million people into possible communication with each other over its own lines. The new building here occupies a lot eighty-five, feet on Fifth street and one hundred feet on Cedar. For the present four stories and the basement of the structure will be completed, with provision for the other stories to be added as the growth of the business demands. The switchboard will have a capacity of 9,600 lines, and will be at once con nected with 8,800 lines, operating about 18,000 pairs of wires through the underground cables. The trunk line switchboard is used to make the connection with other exchanges. Both telephone companies have branch exchanges in the residence districts and in suburban towns. New York No Longer Western Standard An important element to be reckoned with in estimating the solidity of St. Paul's present position, as well as its future prospects, is the moderation, firmness and certainty of advance, of realty values here. A New York paper, not long. ago published the .history of a few selected pieces of property in that city, showing the successive prices at which they had changed hands, beginning with the earliest obtainable records. It was a Jack-and-the-Bean-Stalk story of values mounting faster and higher than the eye could follow. It explains without need of further commentary the fabulous fortunes of such estates, for example, as the Astors, Goelets, Gerrys, Dyckmans, Hoffmans, and others, or of such corporations as Trinity Church and Sailors' Snug Harbor, whose foun ders had bought early and retained their holdings. Judicious invest ments in all prosperous cities bring sure returns, and fortunes have been made here in that way. But prices of our best property are still so reasonable as to encourage purchases for improvement — such improve ments yielding the double profit of fair rentals and steady increase in value. One remarkable index of the proportions to which St. Paul has at tained, and of the aggressive spirit which now animates its citizens, is the phenomenal success which attended a vigorous campaign for new members of the commercial organizations, in November, 191 1. In five days relays of workers secured 1,114 new members of the Association- of Commerce, each pledged to pay $50 a year for three years, into its treasury. The week following, similar committees, including many of the same individuals, added 368 names to the membership of the Com mercial Club. This shows what business men of St. Paul can do when they try. It shows how strong and aggressive is the St. Paul spirit ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 661 when once it is aroused. We have had other exhibitions of this activity before; we have had none which promised more for the future. This means that there is at the gateway to the northwest a united body of business men who are looking all the time to see how their relations with the northwest can be improved. It means that the people of the north west will get a benefit in large measure. This is a conservative city, but no one who has seen the way the business men responded to the call for volunteers and has seen the way in which they went into their work could say that St. Paul is behind the cities of the country in commer cial organization. Only in Cincinnati and St. Paul, so far as the in formation of men in touch with the situation extends, have the business men signed up for membership for three years. It means that a re newed spirit of accomplishment is written large over the map of the capital of Minnesota. The west is fast establishing standards of its own, high and endur ing standards in matters relating to progressive civilization. St. Paul has reached a position where it helps to fix these standards. For many decades because of the power and splendor of New York, and because the wealth of the country was centered there on a certain street, we looked upon New York as the metropolis. Indeed, were we not taught that a metropolis is the city having the largest number of inhabitants? We accepted this; we accepted New York with her 3,000,000 souls, her 30,000 soul mates, her barnstormers, and her brainstorms. Today, when we are beginning to question the standards of New York, we are be ginning to question to etymology of "metropolis." The west has refused to walk the ways of Wall street; this was evident in the panic of 1907 and in later slight tremors, when the west kept its head and hardly knew there was a panic. The west refused long ago to walk Fifth avenue from the old Fifth Avenue hotel to the Hoffman house and settle all important political affairs there. It now begins to refuse to walk the Great White way, to accept the verdicts of Broadway as to the drama, literature, art, architecture and morals. St. Paul now has standards of culture that command respect and elements of progress that extort admiration. It is a leader in the march — no longer an imitator or a servile follower. The Greater St. Paul to Come This is the St. Paul of today, and these are some of the elements of its attained greatness. On these are to be based assurances of the Greater St. Paul that is yet to come. Every important incident in its past history and every potent instrumentality mentioned in preceding pages, has helped lead up to these auspicious conditions. The physical location and configuration of the site; the establishment of the military post; the accidents of early settlement and the characteristics of early settlers, contributed to them. Father Galtier, Bishop Cretin, Sibley, Rice, Bazille, Guerin, Ramsey, Neill, Goodhue, Larpenteur, Hoyt, Mur ray and Bass, played their distinctive, but honorable parts. The sol diers of the War for the Union and the defenders against Indian mas sacre endured perils and made sacrifices that count in the grand climac teric. Steamboats, stages, railroads and electric lines; the postal serv ice and the federal departments; the state capital with its outreaches and ingatherings; the commercial bodies with their solicitude for mer cantile, industrial and financial interests ; the woman's clubs ; the learned 662 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY professions; the public journals; the civic operations; the building and adornment of comfortable homes; the schools, colleges, churches, chari ties, libraries, societies for the promotion of art and learning ; the environ ment of flourishing suburbs, and the proximity of an alert and restless rival city; the sleepless activity of public-spirited citizens, organized in telligent and aggressive — all these, and more, have ministered to the steady advancement which has culminated in St. Paul's splendid present, and its confidence in a splendid future. The city of Ramsey and Rice and Prince; of Driscoll and Averill and Stewart; of Gilfillan and Drake and Merriam; of Dawson and Strong and Ingersoll; of Flandrau and Horace Thompson and C. K. Davis; of Day and Noyes and Marshall; of Hill and Ireland and Kellogg and Stickney, has arrived, but does not cease to advance. It is great, but is only on the threshold of its great ness. CHAPTER LX ASSURANCE OF ST. PAUL'S FUTURE DEVELOPMENT St. Paul's Start in the Race — Three Large Enterprises — Proposed Improvements — New Lines of Communication — Tributary Agri cultural Resources — Minnesota's Timber Wealth — Incalcu lably Valuable Mineral Deposits — Water Power and Electrical Development — National Considerations — A Dream of the Future. To the elements which have combined, in the past, to make the splendid St. Paul of the present, others, heretofore inoperative, some of them, in deed, non-existent and as yet unthought-of, will be added to produce the magnificent St. Paul of the future. Only sixty years ago the "north west" was an undefined territory lying "beyond" the Allegheny moun tains. The states of Iowa, Wisconsin and Michigan stood at the out posts of civilization, marking the limit of advance of the hardy pioneer in the opening and settlement of the great West. The New Northwest is a vast region which has developed within the last thirty years and today comprises a mighty empire, lying north, west and southwest of St. Paul, with its western edge slipping into the Pacific ocean. No part of the habitable globe compares with this vast region in climate, natural resources, production and opportunities. America to day depends upon this new northwest for the larger portion of its food products, its minerals and lumber. All flora reach their highest state of perfection in food quality when grown near to the northern limit of cul tivation. Following this law, the grains and vegetables grown in Min nesota are superior to those of any other region in the world. The famous "No. i" hard wheat of this state has sent its fame to all parts of the earth and failure of crops is unknown. Minnesota occupies a com manding position in the heart of the new northwest. No state in the Union has increased in population and developed so rapidly in wealth, production and education. Its broad prairies and virgin woodlands have been steadily filling up with a class of sturdy, industrious settlers. Thriv ing, bustling, prosperous cities and villages are to be found in every di rection. But great as the growth and progress which has been made, a large portion of the state is as yet but in the morning of its develop ment. The state of Minnesota contains an area of 83,000 square miles, being one-eighth larger than Ohio and Indiana combined. Her resources include fertile soil, navigable waters, power-producing streams, virgin forest timber, limitless deposits of unsurpassed iron ores and vast quar ries of the best building stones. Add to these, her healthful climate ; her attractions for the tourist and the sportsmen, and her other manifold ad vantages — then we catch a glimpse of her manifest destiny as an im perial commonwealth. 663 664 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY But Minnesota, as has been demonstrated in these pages, is only one of the sisterhood of states constituting the vast tributary region of which St. Paul is the gateway, which finds its commercial and financial focus here. And all this mighty empire is the home of an intelligent, energetic and prosperous population. Heredity unites with environment in build ing up, throughout this New Northwest, what must inevitably become the dominant American race. Our ancestors belonged to the Aryan race. They came, a swarming, hungry horde, out of the uplands of In dia, in six great migrations. The first migration stopped on the fertile banks of the Nile, and there civilization was born. The wealth of Egypt came from the raising of wheat. The overflow of the Nile supplied mois ture and nutrition, and the soil laughed a harvest. The next migration was that of the Assyrians, who settled on the banks of the Euphrates and the Tiber. And there they built two great cities, Babylon and Nineveh. From Assyria the tide of migration moved on to Greece and from Greece to Rome. Each of these great world-powers — Egypt, Assyria, Greece and Rome — had its basis in agriculture. Out of the surplus that the farmers produced, the cities were built. All great municipalities had their rise in a herdsmen's camp; then came the fort; next the trading- post; then a city. Other Aryan tribes peopled Northern Europe, and from these, the most virile scions of the world-conquering stock, descended the original Anglo-Americans, with the later infusions of kindred Celtic, Teutonic and Scandinavian blood. Saxon and Norman and Dane are we — also German and Irish and Swedish, with sprinklings of French and other Latins, but all of us English in tradition and tendency. The Puritan and the Cavalier, in this latitude mostly the former, stamped their language, laws, customs and prejudices indelibly upon us. In England from the time of the Stuart kings a constitutional struggle began which is not yet ended. Under King James the historic parties began to line up, the Puritans against the Sacerdotalists. With King Charles it was autocracy against constitutional government. The Eng lish Independents were the real artificers of constitutional freedom. Mars- ton Moor was the end of the personal government of King Charles. Cromwell narrowly escaped becoming an American citizen. If he had been permitted to abandon his country for America, George Washington might not have been the Father of His Country. From Marston Moor England anticipated America in the founding of a republic under Crom well, but the Independents in the hour of their triumphs were not too magnanimous. The foundation of the American Constitution was Crom well's system of government which the English would not accept. The Northwest has received and is assimilating the most robust, ven turesome and strong-willed people of Europe. Seventy-one and a half per cent of the population of Minnesota is composed of foreign-born white persons and native whites of foreign parentage, according to the census bureau. In this respect Minnesota leads all the states of the Union. Other states in which more than half the population consists of foreign whites and whites born of foreign parentage are : North Dakota, 70.6; Wisconsin, 66.8; Michigan, 55.5; South Dakota, 54.4; Montana, 52.8. The significant and gratifying fact is that the foreign elements coming to these states of the Northwest represent the most valuable of all the immigrants — the most thrifty, intelligent and assimilable. A very recent census bulletin shows that the foreign-born farmers of Minne- ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 665 sota, whose name is legion, own 85 per cent of the farms they occupy — the largest percentage of any state. With all this territory, these wonderful resources and this phenomen ally vigorous, enterprising and prosperous population to build on and draw from, the city's future is secure. St. Paul is not full grown, or over grown ; it has only begun to grow. It is infinitely a greater city than its population would indicate as clearly shown by the class of its institu tions and its prominent citizens. It is one of the most important centers of distribution in the United States and the most important in trade and wealth. It is a great educational center and a great railway center, and therefore necessarily a jobbing and manufacturing community. The City of the Future is like the Music of the Future. No one be lieved in Wagner's assertions in notes, as he first set them forth. And yet that future has become present, in music, and the criticisms have be come as worthless as a row of cypher's with their rims rubbed off. The beauty of a city which is still in the making, as all our American cities are, is half dream and half realization. The dream must move slowly toward the awakening. And yet, he would be traitor citizen who did not see his city as it shall be and labor to make it that vision. There is an unfinish about our streets. But what would you have after fifty scanty years? Think of the thousands of years any European city has been in the making. Louis W. Hill's apostrophe to the overcoat contained a pregnant hint as to the physical advantages our vigorous climate brings to our enegetic people. In this favored clime we have to wear overcoats and expect to. Life here, the air about us, makes it possible to earn the money with which to buy overcoats and having to fend against the cold, we are ani mated to go on to greater successes. The overcoat is evidently the be ginning of success. It puts a new aspect on life. Minnesota, the two Dakotas, and Montana, long before they have reached anywhere near their maxium of population capacity will easily be able to support as many people to the square mile as Iowa today. When Minnesota has 40 people to the section, it will have a population of 3,360,000. When the two Dakotas are. equally densely populated they will have 4,800,000 people, and Montana will then have 6,800,000, mak ing a total population of over 14,000,000 for the four states of Minne sota, North and South Dakota and Montana. This district is what we might call the immediate Northwest. It by no means comprehends the entire trade era tributary to St. Paul. Half of Wisconsin, Northern Iowa, and a certain portion of the whole Northwest through to the Pacific ocean are tributary to St. Paul. The seven states that are working together in the Northwest Develop ment League comprise 21 per cent of the area of the United States. The population of the United States is more than 90,000,000. This 21 per cent of the area has only 6,000,000. In the last ten years 2,000,000 new comers settled in these seven states. This was an increase in ten years of fifty per cent ; the increase for the whole United States was 29.9 per cent. The Northwest Development League means to keep adding to this population at an increased rate, and bringing in the business that added millions will support. To say that there were 13,000 wage earners employed in St. Paul in 1900, and 14,000 five years later, and 19,000 in 1910, does not convey a very'definite idea to the minds of people not used to handling figures. If, however, we reduce the figures to per cent of growth and say that the 666 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY increase in St. Paul in the last five years in wage earners in manufacturing establishments was 35 per cent and that the highest increase in New York, Chicago, Cleveland, Pittsburg, Boston, or Philadelphia during the preceding five years was less than that, some idea of the growth of St. Paul is realized. And the impetus is accelerated every year. A casual review of the past year will show that there has been more progress in commercial or ganization circles than in any one other year or several years. The Asso ciation of Commerce has been launched, combining the efforts of men formerly scattered through five organizations. The association acquired 1,200 members for three years in five days. The Commercial Club grew from 1,200 to 1,500 members in the short space of three days. A magnificent public library building has been assured by ample financial resources provided. The work of securing a new and adequate Union railway station has been well advanced. The movement for a changed river channel, adding thousands of acres to the heart of the City's business district is auspiciously inaugurated. Our business men had a large part in organizing the Northwest Development League "the largest commercial club in the world" and se cured its headquarters for St. Paul. The first land show of the develop ment league has been organized and held, all in five months. A train load of live governors of the West left St. Paul and astonished the East in a number of ways. There has been established a weekly meeting for men of the city open for discussion of any subject under the Association of Commerce. Within the year, the West Side Club has dedicated a big clubhouse and the West End and North Central organizations Jiave similar homes ready to start. Worth more than all else, a spirit of civic unity and civic consciousness has been aroused in the city. Few cities of the country can present such an imposing list of achievements in the space of twelve months. Few other cities of the country have made such progress in developing a deep sense of civic unity and united effort for the upbuilding of the municipality. St. Paul's Start in the Race But St. Paul has not reached its zenith of aspiration and effort; it has not stopped growing; it has scarcely begun to grow. It recognizes that it has competitors, and it is prepared to meet them. Other cities see the golden opportunities offered by our marvelous tributary territory and are pushing their advantage of propinquity. Kansas City and Omaha are crowding in on the south and southwest, Spokane on the West and Winnipeg on the north. But St. Paul has a long start in the race. Its merchants have achieved their triumphs by fair dealing, upright methods, courage, foresight and conservatism. St. Paul is 1,900 miles from the Pacific Ocean and the trade legitimately tributary comes from a terri tory 400 miles wide through this whole distance. This is greater than any European country, save Russia. The savages and the animals have been slowly supplanted from Assin- iboine to the Athabasca by men, political peers of those citizens of the eastern provinces, but not of the same kind. If we remember a book which was much read some years ago, Draper's "Intellectual Develop ment of Europe," we will recall how he foresaw, historically, the develop ment of Europe, according to its mountains and plains and rivers. The old thesis is true today. The American continent has been developing according to its mountains and lakes and rivers and plains. Commercial ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 667 development follows the lines of human advancement and St. Paul is at an important, permanent, preordained . focus of some of the most signifi cant of those lines. On the day when St. Paul's new postoffice was opened, visitors went to the State Historical Society rooms to look at a litttle square soap box partitioned off into nine apartments. That soap box was our first post- office. Between that box and the splendid granite building of today were years of pioneer toil and triumph, during which the foundations of St. Paul were established broad and perpetual for the glory and the achievement of posterity. And the physical contrast between the soap box and the granite structure, was* no greater than that between the postal service of the two periods — the one a crude, local, inefficient neigh borhood convenience; the other a vast, ramifying, radiating, educational and commercial institute, a vehicle of trade, of enlightenment and of civilization, centering its innumerable divergent channels in this un changeable gateway of communication. The development of the states of the Northwest and the influx of settlers means an increase in the business of the merchants in the smaller towns. This in turn means that the merchants of St. Paul will reap added sales. Our local merchants have always shown a spirit of co operation with the various commercial organizations of the Northwest working for the upbuilding of the country and have done much to further this growth. The limits of the territory to be served by St. Paul have not been reached. Some day the restrictions of tariff will be removed from Canada and a vast field in that country will be opened to the job bers of this city. The incoming of settlers into the West also extends the field. And even the new movement in China, opening unlimited op portunities for American enterprise, will have a stimulating influence on the trade of St. Paul. The commerce of this city has its vigorous army of aggressive mis sionaries constantly in the field. Counting St. Paul as their home, whether for themselves or their house, 4,000 traveling men have this place as their headquarters. Most of these men are always on the road proclaiming the merits of our goods. Many of them can tell the coun try merchants of the West and Northwest that the articles are made here, for St. Paul is growing rapidly in respect to its factories. Planting their commercial banner on the ramparts of the "enemy" from Omaha, Chi cago and St. Louis, these men are showing the merchants of the North west that goods handled and made here are the best possible for them. Goods bought in another market cannot be selected with the same care for their selling possibilities among the residents of the Northwest, as can the goods picked by the jobber of St. Paul. The thoughts of our business men have never been devoted solely to their own city. The business men of few large cities of the country have done as much to get next to the men who are raising things, as have the business men of St. Paul. They have offered cups by the dozen for the best products along various lines of agricultural endeavor. They have made trips into the country to visit exhibits. They have lent their support in many efforts to inspire the farmers to do their best. The whole Northwest has been included in the scope of the activities of the jobbers and manufacturers who have not stinted their money in helping the farmers and merchants of the entire Northwest to reap a larger harvest from their soil. Surely the prospective prize justifies the effort. The territory tributary to St. Paul's financial and commercial institutions comprises in area about 1,000,000 square miles with a population of 668 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY nearly 10,500,000. What the potential development of this is, finite mind can hardly measure. Some one has said that under intensified develop ment such as must come not many years distant, this country west of the Gateway will support a population of 250,000,000. There is nothing speculative now in the growth of such diversified country as lies to the west of St. Paul. But local interests are not neglected, howbeit- the old-style hurrah campaign is less in evidence and more thought and study is given to making the city a comfortable place in which to carry on business and an attractive place in which to live. This does not mean that new industries are not sought nor the extension of trade territory considered. On the contrary, we are doing the very thing that will help promote trade ex pansion and bring in the most desirable class of home-builders, by mak ing the best possible city in which to live. We find commercial organi zations and publicity clubs giving more of their time and energy to the improvement of conditions of city life. Mere business is not the de sideratum. Healthy growth involves much more than increased popu lation. The percentage of people living in large cities has increased enormously during the last decade, and now more than 47 per cent of the population is urban. This is not a healthy condition, and when we get 1,000 people in a city for whom there is no work, we must divide with them what we earn in order that they may live. We need civic Patriotism, and that St. Paul is assiduously cultivating it, is one of the bright auguries of her future. Three Large Enterprises There are now three large enterprises "on the fire" and all the people are vitally concerned in carrying them with reasonable dispatch to completion. They are the widening of Robert street, the construction of the new library and the harbor and depot plans. The outlook is fairly satisfactory in all three affairs. All obstacles have been removed as far as the library and Robert street improvement are concerned and no further time need be lost in pushing along the actual work. The library plans not only involve a magnificent new building, but through the gener osity of J. J. Hill, assure a great, new reference department, unexcelled in the country. So much is involved in the comprehensive plan of changing the river channel, constructing harbor facilities and railroad terminals, that it must needs move slowly, but that its pace is less than necessity warrants is the general opinion. Harbor plans seem to be shaping themselves out gradually, but the depot scheme is vague as far as the public is con cerned, however much knowledge may be locked in the bosoms of the commission members and railway officials. Results once secured on this important trio of city forward move ments, will put us in position to advance other plans now in abeyance. The plan of the city beautiful, with the Capitol approach features, is marking time, unless the widening of Robert street may be taken as a part. The start once made on the adequate library and a beginning had on a Union Station, modern and sufficient, will give a wonderful impetus to the other steps toward making St. Paul a finer city and a better one in which to live and do business. Above all, a new force has been created for the upbuilding of the city. Every citizen has a larger confidence in its industrial and commer cial progress, as well as in its advance along all lines that make for a better city in which to live. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 669 Proposed Improvements Other important betterments, to be realized at an early date, and cer tain to' have beneficent results affecting even the distant future are : A new charter, inaugurating "the commission plan." An improved lighting system. Much sewer construction. New playgrounds and the commencing of work on the Capitol ap proaches. Several new club houses and other large buildings. Pronounced activity on the part of the Association of Commerce and the Commercial club, in their fine, new quarters. The utilization of the Government high dam, now under construction at the Soldiers' Home, to generate enormous electrical power to be dis tributed throughout the city for manufacturing plants. Four new high schbols in operation, and a smooth running public school system. A new belt line opening up the Northern border of the city to more convenient access — also crosstown lines. Two new interurban lines connecting the city with southern points in the state. Easy financial conditions resulting from the enormous crops harvested in all the vast tributary region, in 1912. Prosperous conditions in the realty market. The erection of a fresh-air school. The completion of the Wilder Charities building. Extended outreach of the St. Paul Institute. These are a few of the local propositions now in hand, and of the favorable omens of general prosperity, which make for better conditions and increased business for our fortunate people. On a broader field the steady development of our tributary resources and our lines of communi cation, yield even more assured promise of a golden future. New Lines of Communication The building of the Panama canal seems destined to alter all the cur rents of trade and of interest in this continent. Thus the stupendous work of man will make possible the long intention of nature. For na ture intended that the lines in this continent should be drawn, not from east to west as they have been, simply because that is the way men have traveled for centuries, but north and south, as the contour leans. If the world did not want this thing to come, the time to prevent was when the canal was still on paper. The completion of the Panama canal will affect St. Paul, through this diversion of the currents of trade — and whether favorably or otherwise depends, to some extent, on the advance preparations made for it. Bet ter connections with the Gulf of Mexico, by rail and by river will be re quired. Proposed new harbor improvements here; the building of the high dam above St. Paul; the deepening of the channels of the Missis sippi ; the inauguration of barge lines ; and the opening up of two or more direct railway systems from St. Paul to New Orleans or Galveston, are presumptive achievements of the near future. The solution of the water way problem, on the carrying side, is the barge. Not only giants of 4,000- 670 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ton capacity (400 by 40 feet, nine-foot draft) but little 100 and 200 ton barges will find their place in future development of Western rivers. Connecting links of railway are being put in. A Denver paper said in July, 1912; "James J. Hill's. vision of a great new railway from the Pacific to the Gulf of Mexico via Denver is about to be realized. His north and south route lacks but two little links, which are to be built as fast as man and machinery can prepare the roadbed and lay the track." The St. Paul Pioneer Press, of concurrent date, says: "The proposed purchase of the Iowa Central Railroad by the Minneapolis & St. Louis road, the merger of those lines and their extension into Canada is announced. The new line, with the traffic agreement with the Gould lines, will furnish an outlet to the Gulf ports for the produce and merchandise of the most productive area in the nation. St. Paul and the tributary territory is certain to profit commercially and industrially by being made one of the most important points on the new system connecting Canada and the Northwest with the Gulf of Mexico." Another newspaper announcement of the same period, that "the Grand Trunk Railway System will enter St. Paul, and is negotiating for land on the West Side flats," may have direct relation to the scheme last referred to. Tributary Agricultural Resources The future of St. Paul is assured by the wealth and variety of the natural resources found in its tributary country, destined, as they mani festly are, to be exhaustively developed by an industrious and intelligent population, domiciled therein. About 26,500,000 acres of the land in the state is in farms, but only 18,500,000 have been turned by the plow. Mi- nesota still affords over 25,000,000 acres in its virgin state. 3,000,000 acres of public lands are obtainable at public sale at prices ranging from $5.00 per acre up, of which but 15 per cent is exacted as a cash payment, the balance being payable in forty years and drawing interest at four percent. A feature of the agricultural development of this great region has been the scientific methods which prevail for the conservation of the land. Profiting by the examples of the abandoned farms in the East, the Northwestern farmer, who perhaps was born and reared upon an old wornout farm in New England, took early precutions against the pos sibilities of similar conditions in the new territory, and the state author ities are cooperating with the farmers in this matter. Instead of con centrating their efforts upon the production of an annually decreasing yield per acre of a single grain the farmers are trying to see how great a variety of crops may be raised. Minnesota's Timber Wealth In the recent years Minnesota has been giving so much attention to farming, dairying, mining, horticulture and other efforts to woo rewards from the soil that the popular mind will probably be surprised at the report of State Forester Cox that the mature, marketable timber of the state has a value of at least $975,000,000, or about as much as the na tional debt of the United States. This takes into account only the timber which is ripe for the market and has no reference to the future resources of that kind which are capable of unlimited development through a proper protection of the existing timber areas and intelligent reforestation. Most of the land now covered with marketable timber is probably too valuable to warrant its retention for timber-growing purposes, but a ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 671 proper system of reforestation on lands less suited for agricultural and other purposes would, in a few years, give the state a standing asset of timber land worth in the neighborhood of a billion dollars, or worth as much as the capitalization of the United States Steel corporation, which controls the steel industry of America and practically dominates the steel business of the world. This is an asset worth preserving and encourag ing. Incalculably Valuable Mineral Deposits The people of the country gasped a little when they heard how steel properties owned by Andrew Carnegie jumped in value $100,000,000 or more at a time during the formation of the United States Steel corpora tion. The world sympathized with the Merritts when they told of the many millions they did not get. Yet the figures, while amazing, did not mean much to many readers. It has remained for James J. Hill and Minnesota to furnish the truly startling example of the Midas-like transformation. Mr. Hill estimated that in his ore lands in this state there are 400,000,000 tons, worth $600,000,000 to $800,000,000. Probably $700,000,000 would be a con servative estimate. Within a decade he and his associates, by the expenditure of a com paratively small sum, have obtained control of wealth Minnesotans never suspected, and the magnitude of which they can grasp only in a vague way. The sum of $700,000,000 means nothing definite to most of us. The immensity of it is appreciated in some measure when it is considered that it is more than five times the assessed valuation of all the property in St. Paul; that it is almost three and a half times the assessed valuation of all the livestock, machinery, furniture, merchandise and other personal property in the state; that it is approximately three-fourths the value of all the farms and city real estate; that it is more than four times the value of all the crops raised in Minnesota fields in one year. The natural resources of the Mesabi range and the magnificent facili ties in the way of machinery which exists there for the purpose of de veloping and transporting them have no equal in this country. There is no place in this world where so much natural wealth is assembled as on the Mesabi range and there is no country in which such magnificent machinery is employed to handle mineral. And then the grand $25,000,000 steel plant at West Duluth which, as we write is approach ing completion, which will enable the state to reap the industrial advan tages of its imperial mineral resources, which will add 40,000 wage earners to Minnesota's population and which is but the forerunner of other similar enterprises — all this adds to the importance of our affluent tributary region. Water Powers and Electrical Development Another natural resource, still in the earliest stages of its apprecia tion and use, is the enormous wealth of water power furnished by the streams of Minnesota, all capable of convenient and profitable employ ment in the generation of electricity for transmission to the cities, villages and farms — there to be consumed in a thousand productive instrumental ities of modern civilization. Whatsoever the unfathomable future may have in store for human advancement by wringing electrical currents from the clouds of the sky, the winds of the forest and prairie, or the tides of the sea, there is already full demonstration before our eyes, that 672 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY the flow of our creeks and rivers "may be harnessed and converted into potential energy, by methods undreamed of in the recent past. Many difficulties have been overcome and others are being sur mounted every day. It was found that through contact an electric light could be produced. The difficulty at first was to find how to rhake and how to break that contact in order to turn the light on and off. Morse experimented with electricity and gave us the telegraph. Edison ex perimented, discovered something new about it and gave us the incan descent light. Dr. Graham Bell experimented, discovered something else and gave us the telephone. Dr. Hertz paved the way for wireless teleg raphy by his announcement of the principle of the Hertzian waves. Then Marconi proceeded to harness these electric waves and gave us wireless telegraphy, and Dr. Frederick Collins has followed with the wireless telephone. So looking backward for fifty years we .realize that within that period man has succeeded in perfecting such a harness for electricity that he has accomplished many things which were once seemingly impossible. This line of reasoning applies to the harnessing of this mysterious force, so that, as is now predicted, we will in time completely overcome the forces of gravity. By this means, railroad trains, relieved of part of their weight, will travel faster and easier owing to the enormous reduction of friction. Steamships will skim across the ocean instead of having to plow through it. Aerial craft will be rendered absolutely and practi cally independent of planes for buoyancy. By simply increasing or de creasing a current of electrical waves they can be raised or lowered or kept stationary at the will of the operator. Even some of the older electrical arts are still undeveloped. Take the storage battery, for instance. The time is ripe for a signal improve ment. One can confidently announce the coming, and very soon, of a new principle which will mark an epoch in the development of this branch of electricity. Electrical engineers promise for the cities, smokeless skies, railless street cars and domestic comforts now unknown, from the imminent expansion of man's knowledge of the generation and transmission of electricity. And to the agricultural districts will come added conveniences, re duced labor and increased production beyond the dream of the intensive farmer of today. Field motors and barn motors and kitchen motors will replace the muscular strain on horses and men, and women, trans forming life on the farm into a pleasurable and profitable career. Now comes George Westinghouse, the great inventor, with the statement that we are on the eve of stupendous achievement due to the scientific use of electricity so that there may be stimulation of the soil. In his opinion this is now beyond the experimental stage. Tests have been made upon tracts of land of considerable area, each one of which was sown or planted exactly as the other was. One was treated to an electric cur rent of about one hundred thousand volts of very high frequency. The other tract was cultivated by ordinary intensive methods. The experi ments, which were continued for five or six years, showed an increase of about forty per cent in wheat crops grown upon the electrified plot as compared with the crops produced upon the unelectrified tract. With these multiplied new uses for electricity, and the vast possibil ities of new sources of supply, the importance of the innumerable water- power sites in St. Paul's vast tributary regions, as a contributory re source for the unlimited growth of the city, will be more apparent. The ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 673 available waterpower of the United States at minimum flow, is approxi mately 36,000,000 horsepower, and this can be increased five or six times by suitable storage facilities. A recent government report states that 6,000,000 horsepower has been developed in the United States for electrical and other industrial purposes. Minnesota, the water-shed of the continent, has its full allotment of the rapidly flowing streams that furnish water-powers. Her enterprising citizens will not be dilatory in finding productive employment for them." National Considerations. To the varied and potent influences we have referred to, which com bine, in augmented force arid with the increasing effect to give undeni able assurance of St. Paul's splendid future, there are other considera tions of a more general or national character, that bring their added quota of encouragement. This is an era of progress and reform. Men are be ing led to see that the function of government is not to magnify the importance of commercial development at the expense of the people as a whole, but rather to establish just and equable relations between all classes and interests, to the end that all may have an equal opportunity to become useful, happy and progressive citizens and escape the demor alizing influence of poverty. The relations of the government to the cor poration, of the government to the people, and of the people to the cor poration are in process of readjustment. For centuries utilities have been conducted by private capital. The firm succeeded the individual. The corporation took the place of the firm. Then came the amalgamation of firms and corporations into virtual monopolies, and the recapitalization of the whole upon a tremendously inflated basis. The people, the con sumers, the men who pay the bills, have revolted at last. They are searching for remedies that shall be just to all the interests involved ; they will find and apply those remedies. The result will be a new and more permanent measure of general prosperity, whereof the golden heart of the continent, the business heritage of St. Paul, will get its share. For, in all this aggressive movement, the middle west and the new northwest, have taken the lead. For many reasons, the crescent social forces of our time triumph West of the Alleghanies, sooner than East, and many policies, now distinctively western, will be accepted in the end, as American. One discerning writer has pointed out that the Middle West stands for certain things the East does not understand and needs to have interpreted to it, because the elements in its thinking are not the same. There are several important points of difference : 1. The West owns half the capital it uses. The East owns most of its own capital and half of the capital in the West. This makes the ownership interest stronger in the thought and policy of the East, 2. The tariff-bred manufacturing interests are more numerous and influential in the East. 3. The West is a century nearer its frontier experiences and still cherishes much of its pristine democracy. 4. Eastern people of fortune are more closely in touch with the Old World aristocracy and its pleasure-seeking ideals. The Western- bred rich who remain West are still strongly tinged with the yearning for achievement or usefulness. 5. The incipient caste spirit of the East is stimulated by the pres ence of great numbers of low grade, un-Americanized, and therefore ex- 674 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY ploitable, immigrants. The immigrants in the West are less squalid, help- Jess, and deferential — they are more speedily and more thoroughly Amer icanized. 6. The culture of the East is more concentrated, specialized, ripened, and thorough; but the common people there are not so well-read, self- confident, and self-assertive, as those of the West. For the triumph of the dominant social forces of tomorrow, the in terpretation of the coming gospel of progress and patriotism, what con stituency is so well equipped as the intelligent and prosperous population of the magnificent empire tributary to St. Paul. A Dream of the Future We cannot, perhaps, better close this chapter and this volume, than by an abridgement of a seeming rhapsody, but probably only an actual prevision falling short of coming realities, printed in the Pioneer Press in June, 191 1, entitled "Looking Backward in 1916." Looking forward in 191 1, what optimist would have ventured to predict the greatness that is ours in this year of 1916? The loom of Destiny has plied a mighty traffic in these five years, yet leaves vast portions of the pattern but vaguely outlined yet. Standing in front of the magnificent Union Depot, who would think that only five years ago we scoffed and said. "It will never be." The Doubt of Yesterday has become the Faith of Today and the Promise of Tomorrow. All over this city is the glory of the completed dream of a generation ago. Upon the beginnings made by the pioneers we have built far to ward a perfection they never could foresee. Father Hennepin, standing beside the Falls of St. Anthony, caught in a dream that pierced the future with prophetic reaches, never contem plated a fraction of what we see and possess today. And five brief years ago the enthusiastic boomers, confident of a to morrow which should find St. Paul the teeming center of a new West, did not perceive how superlatively we should achieve what they aimed for. Rising above our doubts then we pressed onward to the present goal. And today, with new problems before us for solution ; with our horizons pushed far out, our possibilities greatly increased, and our responsibilities accordingly crowding upon us more insistently than ever, we begin to ask "What of the next five years?" And the answer comes from the last five years : "Just go ahead and do things." We conquered obstacles then, we can conquer them again. The material beauty of St. Paul is very great ; our new buildings, our factories, our stores, our homes, all these things impress us as they impress the stranger within our gates. But back of them all is the something which is greater — the one really great thing we have accom plished. That is the unified spirit of St. Paul — the bond of a comomon purpose and common hope uniting all elements of our society into one community of interest and effort. Standing on a street corner in the year 1910, Charles W. Ames spoke with enthusiastic hope of the future of the St. Paul Institute, which he had helped to found and establish. He dreamed that it might grow to be a vital force in the civic life of St. Paul. He was enthusiastic then. But measured against the reality of today that dream of 1910 seems sadly and curiously small. ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 675 The splendid New Library has obliterated the memories of the dingy old building at Seventh and Wabasha, and become a symbol of popular education, attracting the attention of the whole country, and making possible the realization of many of our community culture schemes. The New Cathedral, standing now complete and perfect on its com manding hill, realizing in its beauty and service the life-long hope of that splendid pioneer priest, John Ireland, has drawn thousands to our city to see here a triumph of architecture such as has not been sur passed in the story of any ancient people. The mighty river that for ages has swept past our doors has been humbled and turned aside, and the great levee and the - countless ring ing rails thrill us with the hum of modern commerce as its leaping ac tivities serve mankind in ways our fathers never imagined. The State Capitol, improved little by little, has approached at last that splendid completeness which its great architect planned, the wide high way of light leading from its doors through the city. The Natatorium has just been completed, as an integral part of the Civic Center movement, and nothing like it exists in America as yet. The dividing line between St. Paul and Minneapolis has been wiped out. The four interurban lines which only five years ago seemed to be the very acme of public service, have been augmented by an express line. Greatest of all is the urban street car system, with its own terminals where the old Mannheimer building once was on Third street. And con necting with it a dozen suburban lines that thread the southern portion of Minnesota, connect St. Paul with the immediate life of hundreds of thriving towns and villages, and place the merchant of our city at the very front door of the farmer. Life, eager and abundant, thrills in our veins; our skyscrapers rise toward the skies ; our parks blossom, our stores teem with industry, our jobbers ply their traffic across a whole continent and into the far north of the dominion. Above all these, and founded upon them, rise our beau tiful homes, first pride of the city, and our efficient schools setting a mark for all the world to follow. Yet even this is not the end. What will the next five years be ? Who shall say? Looking upon St. Paul in this year 1916, looking back to 191 1, and peering into the unknown future, we can only cry as we try to pic ture our ultimate destiny: , "I only know it shall be high I only know it shall be great." PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE CITY OF ST. PAUL Vol. II— 1 5 CHAPTER LXI PERSONAL HISTORY Arnold Schwyzer, M. D. America owes much to Swiss stock and has honored and been honored by many gifted and noble men and women of this extraction. Few native sons of Switzerland have proved a greater honor to their adopted country than Arnold Schwyzer, a prominent St. , Paul physician and the scion of an old family whose history is traced to the Middle Ages. Dr. Schwyzer, who is a man of education and train ing, vast experience and remarkable native ability, has been identified with this city since December, 1891. From 1908 until March, 1911, he served as Swiss consul for the states of Minnesota, North and South Dakota, Montana and Wyoming. Dr. Schwyzer was born on May 23, 1864, in Baar, county of Zug, Switzerland, and is the son of Colonel Arnold H. and Catherine (Iten) Schwyzer. As mentioned, the family is old and has had citizenship in the free city of Zurich since 1401. The subject's ancestors were the banner-bearers of Zurich at the battle of*Murten in the year 1476; at the battle of Marignano in the year 151 5; arid the battles of Kappel in the years 1529 and 1531. As his parents were in good circumstances, young Arnold was destined to receive a good education, which was found ed upon six years attendance in the common schools and six and a half years in college. He early decided to adopt as his own the medical pro fession and in preparation for the same attended the Universities of Geneva and Zurich. He subsequently went to Edinburgh, where he had for a short time the advantages of instruction from world-renowned physicians. He took the Swiss state examination as physician and sur geon on March 1, 1888, and in the same year was made first lieutenant of the medical corps of Switzerland. In 1890 he received his diploma as Doctor of Medicine. From 1888 to 1889 he was an assistant in the county hospital of Glarus, Switzerland, and in the years 1890 and 1891 he acted in like capacity at the University Women's Hospital of the city of Zu rich. Thus his medical studies, including his hospital assistantship, which were of a varied character, consumed nearly a decade, lasting as they did from the fall of 1882 until the fall of 1891. The result has indeed justified the preparation, for he is today one of the most valuable physicians in the northwest, acute in his perceptions, widely read in his profession and skillful in applying his acquirements to practical use. In addition to his general practice he holds the position of surgeon to St. Joseph's Hospital ; and gynecologist to St. Luke's. In the year 1909 Dr. Schwyzer was president of the Ramsey County Medical Society. In 1899 he was clinical professor of surgical pathology and later on until 1907 he was professor of clinical surgery at Hamline University. 676 bj\^ C^foCt^^ty^ , ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 677 Dr. Schwyzer was married in Zurich, his ancestral city, in 1899 to Hanny Henggeler, daughter of Colonel Adolf Henggeler, her demise oc curring a few years later. Zurich was also the scene of his second mar riage in 1906, when Marguerite Mueller, daughter of Colonel Mueller, chief instructor of the Swiss cavalry, became his wife. Dr. and Mrs. Schwyzer share their home with two children, Marguerite and Gustav Arnold. .Dr. Schwyzer has himself been allied with Mars as well as Aescula pius, having served while living in Europe as first lieutenant in the Swiss army. In 191 1 he was appointed first lieutenant of the Medical Reserve Corps of the United States of America. He and his wife are members of the Swiss National Protestant church. August Radatz. New Canada township is the home of some of the best farmers of Ramsey county, whose efforts have ever been directed towards the development of their community and the betterment of exist ing conditions. August Radatz, who carries on operations on an ex cellent tract of 193 acres, located in section 2, belongs to this class. He was born in Prussia, Germany, August 27, 1855, and is a son of Ferdinand and Louisa (Priebe) Radatz. Mr. Radatz was seven years of age when he was brought to the United States by his parents, and the journey across the ocean took seven weeks and three days. They first located at Cleveland, Ohio, where Mr. Radatz received a good common school education, and when he was fifteen years old, in 1870, the family came to Minnesota, where Ferdinand Radatz pur chased forty-five acres of land at seven dollars per acre, and on this wild tract erected a little log shanty of two rooms and a log barn. Later, in 1876, he bought eighty acres more, at fifteen dollars per acre, and in 1886 he sold his land at sixty dollars an acre and moved to St. Paul, eventually going to Otter Tail county, Minnesota, where his death occurred when he was seventy-nine years of age, his wife having passed away on the old homestead in 1882. In 1878 August Radatz bought ninety-two acres of land, at about twenty dollars an acre, and two years later, November 7, 1880, he was married in St. Paul to Miss Hulda Gehrmann, of Oakdale township, Washington county. She was born in Prussia, Germany, daughter of Frank and Henrietta (Ott) Gehrmann, who came to St. Paul in 1869, in which city Mr. Gehrmann worked at his trade of brick-layer. In 187.7 the family went to Oakdale township, where Mr. Gehrmann purchased one hundred acres of land, paying twelve dollars an acre for twenty acres and fifteen an acre for eighty acres, and in 1886 sold this land at fifty dollars an acre and moved to St. Paul, where both he and his wife still reside being about eighty years of age. At the time of his marriage Mr. Radatz put up a house at a cost of about $200 and moved into it, but his wife's health not being very good, he left the farm and went to St. Paul, where they resided for about ten years. During the land boom he sold off twenty acres of his property at $230 an acre, and at that time tore down his old buildings and put up new ones, at an expense of about $4000. Soon thereafter he bought forty acres of land in the same lo cality at fifty dollars an acre, twenty-two acres at forty-five dollars an acre and eighty acres at forty an acre, and he now has 193 acres, all in a fine state of cultivation. In 1909 he put up a barn thirty-four by sixty- six feet with a good basement under all, and the water is piped thereinto as it is' into the house. Mr. Radatz is one of the most progressive of 678 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY farmers and an excellent business man. He holds the confidence and es teem of his neighbors, and takes a pride in what he has accomplished. Nine children have been born to Mr. and Mrs. Radatz, of whom five died in infancy, while the survivors, all of whom live at home, are Ernest, Lily, Fred and Frieda. Mr. Radatz is a Republican in his political affilia tions but has not been an office seeker, although he has served as school treasurer of his home district for some time, and refused to allow his name to be used as a candidate for the office of county commissioner. He and his wife and children are consistent members of the German Lutheran church of North St. Paul, of which he was a trustee for twenty- seven years and then resigned. Edward Craig Mitchell. One of the greatest losses that the city of St. Paul was called upon to sustain during the year of 191 1 came to her in the death of the Reverend Edward C. Mitchell, who was pastor of the New Jerusalem church of St. Paul. He was not only a theologian and scholar, but as a minister he was deeply in earnest and in his belief that religion was meant to be used seven days in the week and not one, he did a great work in bringing the religious life of his people closer to their practical working lives. As a scientist he was widely known, his collection of archaeological relics being one of the most valuable individual collections in the country. It is nofas a scientist and scholar that the citizens of St. Paul hold him in their memories, but as a philanthropist and practical sociologist. The kindergartens, the day nursery, societies for the relief of the poor, in all of these he was the leader and organizer. Regardless of self, profoundly conscious of the needs of society and of his duty to society, he was an inspiration to those men who were in earnest and willing to work but who had neither his insight and knowl edge of conditions nor his selflessness. This is why he is so deeply mourned by the city, for though the great majority of the people did not know him personally yet they had felt his uplifting influence. Edward Craig Mitchell was born in St. Louis, Missouri, on the 21st of July, 1836. He was the son of Edward Phillips Mitchell and Elizabeth (Tyndale) Mitchell. His father was a native of Salem, Roanoke county, Virginia, and for six generations the family has been represented in the Old Dominion. His grandparents on both sides were descended from old English families, his mother, who was born in Philadelphia, being descended from a brother of the famous William Tyndale who suffered martyrdom for his great work in the translation of the Bible into the English language. John Tyndall, the noted English physicist, was also a member of this family. When young Edward was five years old his father removed to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and went into the mer cantile business. He later became interested in financial matters and was president of the Commonwealth Bank of Philadelphia. He was some thing of a scholar and was the author of several books. Edward C. Mitchell was the second of the three sons of his parents. His eldest brother is Judge James Tyndall Mitchell, of Philadelphia, who has been editor of the American Law Register and was chief justice of the supreme court of Pennsylvania. Central high school, Philadelphia, was the school in which Edward C. Mitchell received his elementary education. Here he took his A. B. degree in 1856, and in 1861 he received his A. M. degree. He also at tended the law school of the University of Pennsylvania, and he was graduated from this institution in 1859. He was admitted to the bar the ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 679 same year, but turned from the law to the ministry. Therefore, during the years of 1859 and !86o he practiced law while he was studying for the ministry. He was ordained as a minister in the Church of the New Jerusalem on the ist of October, i860, and began at once his active minis terial work, which was to last for fifty years. Until 1863 he preached in Philadelphia, at Frankford. He was then called to Providence, Rhode Island, where he remained until 1865. The following year was spent at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, and then he was transferred 'to North Bridgewater, now Brockton, Massachusetts. In 1869 he took charge of a church in Detroit, Michigan, where he remained until 1872. In April of that year he came to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where he lived until, in 1876, he moved to St. Paul. He remained in St. Paul for the remainder of his life, though from 1872 until 1880 he spent about as much time in Minneapolis as in her sister city for he had charge of churches in both cities. In 1880 he was made pastor of the New Jerusalem church in St. Paul. When he first came to St. Paul he held his services in the lecture room of the Young Men's Christian Associa tion, but by 1876 the numbers and enthusiasm of the society had so in creased that they bought the old First Methodist church on Market street, between Fourth and Fifth streets. This historic old edifice, which was built of the first bricks ever made in St. Paul, they refitted, and here Reverend Mitchell held services until his congregation outgrew the church. In 1887, therefore, their present place of worship, at the corner of Virginia and Selby avenues, was built. The legal training of Reverend Mitchell gave him a logical mode of thought. He appealed to the reason of the people rather than the emo tions, but it was said of him that his sermons were "written from the head and spoken from the heart." He was a student, yet he did not yield to the temptation of the student and speak in complexities. His language was simple, and no matter how abstruse might be his thought he suc ceeded in translating it into the simplest and clearest language. He is the author of several works on different phases of religion. The "Parables of the Old Testament Unfolded," which is an interpretation of the spiritual meaning of forty of the parables, was his first. The "Parables of the Old Testament Explained" is another, and his latest work was "Scripture Symbolism." He spent the short time allowed him for recreation in scientific investigation. He gathered during the years between 1847 and 1906 twenty-one thousand five hundred relics, representing many different kinds of stone, shell, horn, copper, bone, pottery and wood utensils. He presented the collection to the Minnesota Historical Society, and it now forms the most important part of their archaeological museum. He had stone arrow-heads, knives and axes, and a number of aboriginal skulls from Minnesota ; copper implements from Wisconsin ; a remarkable cache, or hiding hoard of one hundred and ninety-two spearheads nearly alike, all found buried together, from Ohio; from Arkansas and Arizona, In dian pottery ; and from Alaska, articles of horn, ivory and bone. The col lection fills fourteen cases and includes an interesting exhibit of coins from one to four thousand years old, and an interesting collection of polished stone implements from Denmark. This collection represents a vast amount of work and study, and when one thinks that it was only done during the leisure moments of Reverend Mitchell, some estimate of the enormous working capacity of- the man may be formed. To turn to the field in which he was most deeply interested, the welfare of humanity, he was an active worker in many charitable and benevolent 680 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY societies, of which only the most important may be mentioned. He was the originator of the free kindergartens of St. Paul, and was president of this movement until it was given into the charge of the public schools. The St. Paul Relief Society owes its existence to his efforts, and he was president and chairman of the executive committee for several years. He also founded the St. Paul day nursery, and was for many years vice- president of the Humane Society for the prevention of cruelty to chil dren and animals. A number of the great patriotic societies can claim him as a member, these being the Society of the Sons of the American Revolution, of which he was a charter member and an ex-chaplain; the Society of Colonial Wars of the State of Minnesota, of which he was also chaplain ; and the Society of American Wars. He was a prominent mem ber of the Minnesota Historical Society and was a member of the board of managers. He was a member of the Peace Society of America, and in the scientific world held membership in the National Geographic Society, the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Science, and the St. Paul Academy of Science, of which he was president. He was likewise a member of the American Institute of Civics, and of such dissimilar organizations as the Young Men's Christian Association and the Commercial Club of St. Paul. The mere recital of this long list of associations in all of which he was active, is sufficient evidence of the broadmindedness of the man arid of his progressive ideas. He endeavored to keep abreast of the great change that is taking place in economic, social and religious thought, and if any man could succeed he could. The work that he accomplished is the best proof that he did succeed. Reverend Edward C. Mitchell and Miss Louise C. Fernald were mar ried on the 9th of May, 1865, and it was on account of her ill health that he came to Minnesota. She did not live -long and in 1876, on the 8th of July, he married Annie' Iungerich, a daughter of Louis C. Iungerich, who was a prominent banker and capitalist of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Mrs. Mitchell died in 1898, at the age of sixty-two years. Her husband died on the 8th of December, 191 1, at St. Paul, at the age of seventy-five. Their only son, Walton I. Mitchell, is now one of the leading physicians of Wichita, Kansas. He was born in St. Paul, Minnesota, on the 26th of December, 1877, and received his early education in the high school of his home city. He then attended the University of Minnesota, where he was graduated in 1900, with the degree of B. S. Having determined to study medicine, he went to the Hahneman Medical College and Hospital in Philadelphia, where he received the degree of M. D. in 1903. The two succeeding years he spent in study and practice in the Metropolitan Hos pital in New York City. He was married on the 25th of June, 1901, to Blanche Crawford, a daughter of George D. Crawford, of Hagerstown, Maryland. Dr. and Mrs. Mitchell have two children, Annie I., who was born on the 23d of July, 1902, and Walton C, whose birth occurred in November, 1903, on the 7th of the month. Constantine J. McConville. Notably prominent among the suc cessful business men of St. Paul is Constantine J. McConville, the wealthy merchant and land owner. Mr. McConville's father before him was in the mercantile business. Both Michael McConville and Mary (McDuffey), his wife, were natives of Ireland ; both are now deceased. Their son who is the subject of the present sketch, was born in New York City. He was educated in the public schools of that national metropolis and in the Col lege -of the City of New York. His first vocational employment was in ST. PAUL AND VICINITY 681 the New York dry goods house of William H. van Slyck, who was the father of the well known George Finch van Slyck. In 1872 young Mc Conville came to St. Paul. Flis intelligent grasp of all business details and his popularity with all customers was such that he soon became prac tically invaluable to the company with which he associated himself, and on the first of January, 1888, he was made a member of the firm. When the company was reorganized eight years later he was made vice-presi dent. And after the death of George R. Finch he succeeded, in June, 1910, to the position of head of the firm. It is needless to comment on the standing of the house, the quality of its merchandise or the extent of its patronage, for the superiority of each is well known to all residents of St. Paul. Mr. McConville's accessory commercial activities are indicated by his relation to each of the following organizations : the Provident Loan Com pany, of which he is president ; the White Bear Land Company, in which he holds the same office ; and the Association of Commerce, of which he is one of the directors. He is a very popular club man, being a director of the Commercial Club and a member of the Minnesota Club, of the Town and Country Club, the Auto Club and the White Bear Yacht Club. The family life of Mr. McConville is closely connected with St. Paul and St. Paul society. His first marriage was with Mary J. Corrigan of this city; she died in 1890, leaving one daughter, Adelaide. His second mar riage occurred in 1895, when Margaret Mae Butler, of St. Paul, became Mrs. McConville ; their children are Constance M. and Clarence B. Mr. McConville and his family are among the most prominent members of the Roman Catholic church of this place. He is taking an especially important part in the plans and progress of the building of the new cathedral and is also a member of the Catholic Club of New York City. John W. Finehout. The early pioneer stock of St. Paul, consisting of unusually staunch and noble men who made their way into the new country and laid the paths of civilization, straight and clean, is now rapidly disappearing, although here and there remains some fine patriarch not yet summoned to the Undiscovered Country whose memories bridge the past and present. Their sons are now leaders in the many-sided life of the city and representative of its most admirable citizenship, and among them none is more worthy of esteem than the gentleman whose name in augurates this review, — Judge J. W. Finehout, for ten years judge of the St. Paul municipal court. Selected because of his supposed special fitness for the office, he has demonstrated in his continuous service in the position that there was wisdom and good judgment in the selection, and the ex pectations involved in making it have been fully met in the capable and faithful performance of official duty. He is a veteran of the Spanish- American war and possesses several other pleasant distinctions in addi tion to his prestige as a member of St. Paul's splendid judiciary. Judge Finehout was born in St. Paul on August 2, 1873, the son of Henry Finehout, a native of the state of New York. The father was born at Fort Plain, Montgomery county, that state, in 1819. He became a railroad contractor and came to the new St. Paul when a young man, one of his early honors being the building of the first railroad into the city from the east — the Chicago & St. Paul Railroad, the same being com pleted in 1870. So greatly was he impressed with the possibilities of future greatness for St. Paul that he decided to locate here and he became the first general superiritendent of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Rail- 682 ST. PAUL AND VICINITY road. However, his health becoming impaired, he again went on the road and was an' official on the Omaha Railroad until his retirement from active life. He also built the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad. The demise of this well-known and highly honored man occurred on June 24, 1900, when over eighty years of age. His is a name which deserves a high place in the records of the pioneers of Ramsey county, where it is preserved and increased in honor by his worthy descendant. Judge Fine- hout's mother, whose maiden name was Catherine A. Cowan, is a native of Ireland and is still living, making her home at 595 Olive street. Of the three children born to her and her husband, the subject is the only one living. For. his preliminary education Judge Finehout is indebted to the public schools, the Franklin school having been the scene of his first introduction to Minerva. After finishing its curriculum he entered Shattuck Military Academy at Faribault, Minnesota, from which he was graduated in 1891. His first experiences as an actual factor in the work-a-day world were in connection with the railroad business, primarily in the office of the Omaha Railroad and then with the Great Northern. In the meantime he had decided upon his career, and his nights and all spare minutes were utilized in studying law. He concluded his preparation in the state university and from that institution received his bachelor of law degree in 1898. For some time previous to his graduation he was chief clerk in the legal de partment of the Great Northern Railway. Upon the outbreak of the Spanish-American war, when patriotism became no longer a mere rhet orical expression, he enlisted and was made senior captain of Company B of a Minnesota regiment. In the following year he was mustered out at Augusta, Georgia. For several years previous to his enlistment he had been connected with the First Minnesota National Guards. Upon his return from warfare Judge Finehout took up his practice of the law and succeeding years have measured an eminently successful and useful career. For a time he was in the office of C. D. & T. D. O'Brien, one of the best-known law firms in the northwest. Mr. T. D. O'Brien sub sequently serving on the supreme bench of the state. In September the subject was appointed assistant corporation attorney and shortly thereafter was appointed city -prosecutor, serving until 1902, when he resigned to become a candidate for judge of the municipal court. He was elected and re-elected in 1906 and 1910. In 1906 he and Mayor Keller were the only Republicans elected to office. Judge Finehout has the distinction of being the only man three times elected to the office of municipal judge. Since his earliest voting days he has been a loyal Republican and has ever since been one of the most active participants in the party's councils and campaigns. At present he is openly identified with the progressive wing of the party and devotes considerable time aiding in the work that is being attempted by the so-called insurgents. Judge Finehout is of that type which finds pleasure and profit in asso ciation with his fellowmen and he has a number of fraternal connections. He belongs to the ancient and august Masonic order and has "traveled east" with the Shriners. He holds membership with the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks, the Commercial Club, the Junior Pioneers, the Woodmen and numerous other organizations. He is a director of the East St. Paul Commercial Club and is interested in all matters affecting the civic welfare. This "veteran" has not yet . become a recruit to the ranks of the Benedicts. &. /&Zi LSL-4--*-^-L