1 S 8 J \ -> ¦ 4 ft- G l'l ( !-i' ft- It P I 1 ^ 4*. :>v- gc^gBE^r^ •YAILJE-VMWIEiaSinnr- BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE Alfred E. Perkins Fund This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation with Yale University Library, 2008. You may not reproduce this digitized copy ofthe book for any purpose other than for scholarship, research, educational, or, in limited quantity, personal use. You may not distribute or provide access to this digitized copy (or modified or partial versions of it) for commercial purposes. AN HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE VIEW OF THE COUNTY OF NORTHUMBERLAND, AND OF THOSE PARTS OF THE COUNTY OF DURHAM SITUATED NORTH OF THE RIVER TYNE, WITH BERWICK UPON TWEED, AND BRIEF NOTICES OF CELEBRATED PLACES ON THE SCOTTISH BORDER. COMPREHENDING THE VARIOUS SUBJECTS OF NATURAL, CIVIL, AND ECCLESIASTICAL GEOGRAPHY, AGRICULTURE, MINES, MANUFACTURES, TRADE, COMMERCE, BUILDINGS, ANTIQUITIES, CURIOSITIES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, POPULATION, CUSTOMS, BIOGRAPHY, LOCAL HISTORY, &c. &c Sxccnls JStritton, CAREFULLY CORRECTED, AND GREATLY ENLARGED WITH CURIOUS, VALUABLE, AND AUTHENTIC MATTER. VOLUME II. BY E. MACKENZIE, Author of the History qf Egypt, and Editor qf Modern Geography, Select Biography, Life of Napoleon Bonaparte, fyc. ft — •-?¦>!*$&>-: arid FramUngton Hall Hill; but his knowledge of the western branch, through the same province, is perfectly correct, and which is seen by uniting a part of the 5th and 9th Iters. " Part of the 4th Iter. — Intras Maximum Ccesariensem. Vinovio, Binchester. JEpiaco, Ebchester. Ad Murum, Portgate. Trans Murum intras Valentiam, Bolam, Thornton, Brinkburn Priory, and Framlington Hall Hill. Alauna Amne, Crawley Tower. Tueda Flumine. Ad Vallum, Falkirk. " Part of the 5th and 9th Iters. — Corstoplio, Corbridge. Breminio, Rieches- ter. Ad Fines, Chew Green. Curia, Near Jedburgh. Trimontio, Eildon Hills. Gadanica, Channel Kirk. Corio, (Query ?) Edinburgh. Ad Vallum, Falkirk." 20 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. The Rev. A Hedley, in noticing a similar communication from Mr. Smart to the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle, says that the north-west angle of Crawley Tower, which is the most perfect part of it, " is decidedly Roman in its features, anjd cannot be mistaken.. That it was the Alauna Amnis ai Richard of Cirencester, is by no means so certain. Mr. Smart says, he is ' confirmed in this idea, because the emi nence on which it stands declines down both to the rivers Ain and Breamish.' Now it certainly has a fine command of the latter river, being not more than half a mile from it ; but the considerable hill on which the village of Glanton is situated, hes between it and the river Ain, from which it is distant not less than three miles. Had it received its appellation, therefore, from either of these rivers, is it not much more likely that it would have been named with reference to the Breamish than the Ain ?" The Bow-Burn, which runs into the Breamish near Crawley, is supposed to have derived its name from the Celtic, pwl, ox poll, a ditch, a pool, and from which comes the Anglo-Saxon pul. Titlington is situated at the southern extremity of this parish. Between this place and Crawley stands a high hill, called Titlington Pike. This estate was sold in shares, the last of which was bought of Gen. Ord by the late Mr. Hargrave of Shawdon. Bassington stands on the northern brink of the Ain, and near its junction with Eglingham Burn. This name is derived from bassin, an old word signifying rushy, w\.d ton, a place of abode. The surrounding fields, notwithstanding the progress of cultivation, still very much abound in the common rush. This word appears in bass, a moat, and 6a**-bottomed chairs. The townships of Shipley, and East and West Ditchburn, noticed in the south division of Bambrough Ward, belong to the parish of Eglingham. The Colling- woods of Byker were derived from a younger branch ofthe Cofiingwoods of Ditchburn INGRAM PARISH. This parish includes an irregular tract of a mountainous, picturesque and thinly peopled country, lt is intersected by the impetuous Breamish, and is separated from Ilderton on the north by the Hartside Hills, from Eglingham on the east by an ima ginary line, from Whittingham on the south by the Fawdon Hills, and also by cer tain boundary marks on the south and south-west from Alnham. It contains W w houses and 228 inhabitants. ' Ingram is a small village situated south of the Breamish, two miles west from th^ turnpike road, and 9^ miles south from Wooler. The church is dedicated to St Mi chael, and the Hving is a rectory, valued in the king's books at £24 16s 8d This place is the property of John Collingwood Tarleton, Esq, * " ' Reaveley is a hamlet seated on the north side of the Breamish at a short distance north-east from Ingram. » wnuswuie INGRAM PARISH. 21 Fawdon and Clinch are two contiguous townships, occupying the south-east division of the parish. They are the property of the Duke of Northumberland. Hartside lies towards the north-west, and was purchased, in 1788, of Thomas Selby, Esq. of Biddlestone. by Christopher Wealleans, Esq. The hilly township of Green- side is situated on the east of Hartside. Linhope stands in a wild country, about 4 miles west from Ingram. At a little distance northward is Linhope Spout, or the Roughting Linn, so called from the great noise made by the fall of the water after heavy rains ; the word Roughting being also used by the Borderers on hearing the lowing or bellowing of cattle. This cataract falling nearly 48 feet perpendicular, over a rugged rock of brown whin, spotted with green, makes a fine white sheet of foam. At the bottom is a bason, seven feet in diameter, and fifteen feet in depth. But the rock from which the stream precipitates being naked, exhibits none of those picturesque beauties which grace the waterfall at Hareshaw-Linn, near Bellingham. In this alpine region all the prominent features of nature still retain the descriptive appellations of the ancient Britons. Linn, in their language, denotes a pool formed below a waterfall — Hope signifies a vale, without a thoroughfare ; and is one among many instances where the English adjuncts have been engrafted on British roots. The Saxons, who settled in Britain, were indeed prompted by their poverty of speech to borrow many terms from the more opulent speech of their Celtic predecessors, who, in exercising the peculiar prerogatives of first discoverers, displayed the appro priate qualities of their language, which is distinguished for its strength and discrimi nation, its copiousness of epithet, and its frequency of metaphor. Proceeding northward from Linhope Spout, across Blackhope moss, the traveller reaches Standrop Hill, where are several cairns; the simple, rude, but impressive funeral monuments of the earliest inhabitants of this island ; and which have sur vived the sculptured stone and engraven brass of periods more refined. Two years ago, John Smart, Esq. of Trewitt, while on an excursion in search of the rude remains of the ancient inhabitants of this interesting district, discovered a fortified British town between Linhope and Hartside, which he describes thus : — " It is situ ated at the foot of Greenshaw Hill, the lowest to the east of the range of the Cheviot Hills. From thence, by Three-stone Burn (where there is a Druidical circle) and Langley Ford, to Kirknewton, the road is tolerably level, as the hills he to the right and left, so that a communication to the north was not so difficult as may be appre hended ; and a retreat, on the invasion of an enemy, to the strong fortified places of Yevering Bell, Newton Tor, and Hethpool Bell, was easily effected: and as it is supposed that Yevering Hill was a place consecrated by the Druids, the distance was no consideration with the ancient Britons. The communication to the south part of the country of the Ottodini, by Alnham and the east of Simonside Hills, was direct, the Coquet being seldom impassable. On the lowest range of Simonside is Burgh Hill, by Newton Park. Opposite to Whitton Tower is a large British camp, with a triple rampier, that commands a view of Alemouth and Druridge Bay, the Cheviots, and Ridley Edge, along which Watling-street runs to Chew Green. On the hill im mediately to the south of Burgh Hill are two Druidical circles, that have escaped the sacrilegious hands of the surveyors of roads or builders of cottages. From all of these VOL. ii. F 22 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. circumstances, may not the principal city of the Ottodim be placed upon the Bream, ShTseadof theWd; as Bremenium is evidently Roman and lay too near the Wall to be the chief city of the aboriginal inhabitants? Anif°+T ^ ? *f " ther, that Linhope is much larger, and the country affords much better pasturage for cattle in the spring, which is a great consideration with a people who provided no food for winter." The annexed sketch will convey some faint idea of this most singular work of our British ancestors. The north side of this castrametation mea sures 240 feet, and the west side 302 feet. C is an old hollow road, leading to Linhope Burn. B, the Breamish. A, Linhope Burn. F, the descent to Linhope. D, an old road. The figures relate to the length of the sides of the scite of the town, which is within the limits of Hartside, though immedi ately opposite to Linhope. A British road or trackway from Alnham passes by this place, and pro ceeds to Langley Ford. This is undoubtedly the most per fect remains of the ancient Britons yet discovered in this district. Though several thousand roods of stone walls have been built out of the ruins, yet it still retains all the characteristics given by Strabo and Tacitus. The houses are either single or double cylinders, as the remaining foundations attest to this day ; and built strongly of stone without mortar, the use of which was introduced by the Romans. On the whole, this British strength seems to be larger and more perfect than that on the summit of one of the highest of the Malvern ridge of hills, which is accurately described by Mr, King, in his Munimenta Antiqua. ALNHAM PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Ingram, on the east by Whittingham, on the south by Alwinton, and on the west by Kidland lordship. It contains but 40 houses, and 269 inhabitants. There are no schools in this thinly peopled parish. Alnham, — This small village lies near the head of the river Ain, from which it derives its name, and 14 miles west from Alnwick. It was anciently the lordship and estate of William de Vescy, 37 king Henry III. It was afterwards inherited by the Percy family. It is sometimes called Yarwell, and was formerly a pretty large town, though now a place of no consequence. The church is dedicated to St. Michael, and the living is a discharged vicarage, valued in the king's books at £3, 17*. \d\ WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 23 The Duke of Northumberland is the principal proprietor of this place, part of which belongs to Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Harbottle Castle. Alnham has evidently been a place of consequence, both in the time of the Britons and the Romans. A little to the south is Black Chester, a Roman station, as its name imports : and on a hill, one mile west from Alnham, is a semicircular encamp ment ; the points of the crescent facing the east seem to have formed the entrance. It is defended by two outward rampiers and a deep fosse, and an inner circle of stones, which appear uncemented. The interior area, about 100 yards in diameter, shews many remains of buildings. Prendwick lies one mile east by north from Alnham. This place originally be longed to the Alder family, by whom it was sold, about the beginning of the 18th century, to the Rev. — Byne and Mr. Collingwood. It was afterwards purchased by the late John Carr, Esq. of Dunstan, in the county of Durham. Unthank stands a short distance south from Prendwick. Thomas Unthank, 10 queen Elizabeth, 1568, held the whole village of Unthank. Unthank Hall, which is pleasantly seated on the south side of the Ain, was the mansion of Alexander Col lingwood, Esq. of the house of Brandon, and is now called Collingwood House. It is the property and residence of John Colhngwood Tarleton, Esq. Screenwood is a farmhold about a mile to the south of Alnham, and is the pro perty of Ralph Riddell, Esq. of Felton Park. WHITTINGHAM PARISH Is bounded on the north by Ingram and Eglingham, on the east and north-east by Edlingham, on the south by Rothbury, and on the west by Alnham. It extends 4^ miles from north to south, and about the same distance from west to east in the broadest part. The land is fertile, and well enclosed and cultivated, and is divided into seven townships, containing 319 houses and 1749 inhabitants. There is a day- school at Whittingham, attended by from 40 to 60 scholars, 10 of whom are taught gratis. The master has £ 10 per annum, a house, garden, and school-room, given by Lord Ravensworth. A girls' school is supported in a similar manner by Lady Ra- vensworth. There is also a Sunday-school, opened during summer, belonging to the Established Church, in which 150 children are instructed. At Glanton there are two day-schools, containing about 60 children, besides a Sunday-school belonging to the Presbyterians, which is attended by 60 children. To the school at Callaly, which contains 50 boys and girls, John Clavering, Esq. gives a house and garden. There is also a small day-school at Thrunton. Whittingham is a very pleasant and populous village, agreeably seated on the banks of the river Ain, about 8^ miles west by south from Alnwick. The road from Morpeth to Edinburgh, by way of Coldstream, passes through it. The river is crossed by a neat stone bridge, erected a few years ago. Here is a commodious inn, kept by Mr, Joseph Waterman, A fair is held here on August 24, for lean and fat 24 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. cattle and a few horses. It is the best show of fat cattle of any fair in the county The church is dedicated to St. Bartholomew ; and the living, which is in the gitt ot the bishop of Durham, is valued in the king's books at £12, 11*. 8rf.* The vicarage- house stands pleasantly at a little distance from the west end of the church. Ihe petty sessions are held here. This village was formerly held in serjeantry ot the king, by drengage service. It is now the property of Lord Ravensworth. The valley of Whittingham has long been famed for the luxuriance of its soil, the excellence of its culture, and the beauty of its aspect. On its rich pastures cattle and sheep attain to a large size, and every object wears the countenance of opulence. This lovely valley extends about four miles in width, and forms a most striking con trast with the adjoining mountains, bogs, rocks, and heath, which compose the surface of Rimside Moor. Shawdon stands on the north side of the road leading from Glanton to Alnwick. The mansion-house is a large and elegant building, adorned with fine extensive woods and pleasure-grounds. It was the seat of James Hargrave, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1738 : and about the year 1778, it came into the possession of his son, the late William Hargrave, Esq. who was also high sheriff of the county in 1783. He received his academical education at St. John's College, Cambridge, where, as his noble friend and contemporary, the late Duke of Northumberland, expressed himself, "he was distinguished for superior strength of understanding and benevo lence of heart." This character might justly be appbed to him through life. Modest and firm in manners, correct in judgment, and polished in conversation, he afforded a fine specimen of the higher order of English country gentlemen. His knowledge of the laws were happily applied in the discharge of his magisterial duties ; and his cha rities, though secret, were unbounded. He died in 1817, aged 81 years. The im pression made by his loss was such, that every person in the neighbourhood, who could provide himself, appeared in mourning at the parish church of Whittingham on the Sunday after his decease. Previous to his father's death, he married Catharine, third daughter and co-heiress of Samuel Shields, Esq. of Newcastle. This lady still resides mostly at Shawdon ; but the estates, in consequence of the death of George Hargrave Pawson, are possessed by his brother, W. J. Pawson, Esq. second cousin to William Hargrave, Esq. Two urns of ordinary pottery were some years ago dis* covered near this place. Glanton is a fine pleasant village, situated on the turnpike road, about two miles north of Whittingham, and nine miles west by north from Alnwick. It has recently been enlarged by the erection of several handsome houses, and is at present one of the most promising villages in the county. Here are two public houses, and a Presbyte rian meeting-house. This fine village belongs to several proprietors, amongst whom are, Henry Collingwood, John Tewart, George and Joseph Hughes, John Hopper, and Daniel Alder, Esqrs. and Mr. James Pigdon. Above Glanton, on the west side * Sir Francis Brandling, during his sheriffalty, levied upon Clement Stevenson, vicar of Whittingham, for his first fruits, 51. which he paid to Sir Thomas Swinburn, of Ellingham, high sheriff of Northumberland, 5 king Charles I. 1628. — Swinburne MSS. . WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 25 of the road, Glanton Pike rears its lofty head. This mount is of a conic form, and commands a most extensive prospect ; the hill called Duns Law, in Scotland, having been seen from it on a clear day. Formerly there was a beacon upon the summit, to alarm the country in times of danger. Glanton House, the residence of Major Frank- len, of Branton, is finely seated on the south side of the Pike, and is the property of Henry Collingwood, Esq. As a mason was digging for stone near Deer-street, beside Glanton Westfield, in the year 1716, he discovered an empty stone chest, upwards of three feet in length, and two in breadth, with a stone cover. Some time afterwards, three more chests of a similar form, with covers, were discovered at the same place. There were two urns and- some fine earth in each, with some charcoal and human bones, on which were the marks of fire. Near these were two other urns, one large and the other very small. They were of ordinary pottery, and on being exposed to the air, fell into pieces. An ancient urn was also found more recently in ploughing a field near Glanton. There is a variety of opinions relative to such sepulchral remains. It is well known that the practice of burning the dead was universal among all pagan nations. This early usage was observed by the ancient Britons ; and their kistvaen, or " stone chest," frequently contained the urn, which preserved tbe precious ashes of the deceased, and often the ashes and bones without an urn. It has been a very common error to attri bute all those sepulchral urns to the Romans, on the supposition that they originally introduced urn burial, and that they only were capable of making such urns. But Mr. King has evinced, that several barrows, which have been falsely attributed to the Romans, are really British, and that the Roman sepultures in Britain are without tumuli. It cannot now be ascertained whether these stone cases and urns were found under a hillock, or cairn ; but, from the height and advantageous situation of Glanton Pike, and the circumstance of British weapons being found on its side, we think it highly probable that it was either a post or a temple of the Ottodini, and that these bones and ashes were the remains of their great men. There being no trace of a Roman camp near this place, lessens the probability of those urns being deposited by that people. Mr. Wallis says, that a British Securis, or Celt, of the old mixed brass, was found in making a fence, about a quarter of a mile north from Glanton Westfield. Few instruments have more exercised the thoughts of antiquaries than this ; some con tending for its being a weapon of war, and others not, Mr. Hern fancies it to be a Roman chissel, used in making their aggeres, and that it was preferred to iron from the reputed sacredness of the metal of which it was made. From there being no mention of it by Bonani, by Monsieur de la Chausse, or by Spon, and no vestiges of it among the Roman arms on the Trajan or Antonine pillar, or among the ruins of Herculaneum, Mr. Borlase is inclined to think it not of foreign transmarine origin, but the work of British-Romans, or artists taught by them, for an offensive missive weapon. According to the late learned and sagacious Dr. Stukeley, it was used by the Druid priesthood in their Sacra, being their hatchet, fixed to the end of a staff, with which they cut the misletoe for Yuletide, our Christmas, and oak-boughs for their festival of the autumnal equinox. But the elaborate Mr. Chalmers observes, that the flint hatchets, which have occasioned so much discussion among learned men, were called. Celts, from the nature of the material whereof they were made; the cellt vol. ii, G 26 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. of the British speech literally signifying a flint-stone ; and these instruments have been so called even when they were made of brass or other metals. Those curious Celts, which appear on British coins, have been discovered in every part of thi~^ and were indisputably the workmanship and the weapons of our Celtic ances- Great and Little Ryle are two townships that form the west side of this parish. Little Ryle was the villa and seat of the fourth son of Sir Daniel Colling wood, of Brandon, the descendant of Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, of Eslington.. This ancient family, famed for feats of " border chivalry," appear to haye formerly pos sessed considerable property in these parts, at a time when it required activity and boldness to defend it from the unexpected inroads of the wily Scotch Borderers. But the petty wars and robberies of those days are happily over, the slughorn is no longer heard echoing among the mountains, and a poet of our own days may truly exclaim — " Sweet Teviot ! on thy silver tide The glaring bale-fires glow no more ; No longer steel-clad warriors ride Along thy wild and willowed shore. Where'er thou wind'st, by dale or hill, All, all is peaceful, all is still : As if thy waves since time was born, Since first they roll'd their way to Tweed, Had only heard the shepherd's reed, Nor started at the bugle-horn." Alexander Collingwood, of Little Ryle, was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1725. He made many considerable improvements on his estate, and built a handsome mansion-house at Unthank. The old hall at Little Ryle, which stood in a fine shel tered situation, is now totally in ruins. His possessions devolved on his son and heir, Alexander Collingwood, who was also high sheriff of Northumberland in the year 1761 ; and are now the property of John Collingwood Tarleton, Esq. Eslington, a seat belonging to Lord Ravensworth, stands in a low sheltered situ ation, on the north banks of the Ain, one mile west from Whittingham. It is an elegant structure, of polished freestone, in the modern style of architecture. The gardens are extensive and kept in the best order. A pretty lawn hangs upon the brink of the river, which forms a fine canal, the opposite risings being tastefully orna mented with a shrubbery. From the walk above the plantations, there is a most ex cellent prospect of cultivated scenes, finely terminated: the vale of Whittingham, with all its rural richness, is extended, in front, surmounted by the grove of Callaly, and its conic mount, called Castle Hill : to the eastward, Lemington with its fine plantations, Bolton Park, and Broom Park, are in view: to the north, Glanton, Tit lington, and the woods of Shawdon ; the whole forming an extensive circus, shut in on every side by heathy mountains and rocky steeps, disposed at an agreeable distance, and contrastng in a beautiful manner with the nearer objects. , WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 27 Eslington was the villa and manor of the ancient family of the Eslingtons ; of Alan de Eslington, 23 king Henry III. of whom it was held by certain local services of the 3)jM^0K>f serjeantry ; of his son, John de Eslington, who had also the manor of Fram- lingt<^^as was found by an inquisition taken at the castle of Newcastle, 49th of the same reign, and by another taken at Rothbury, 21 king Edward I. ; of Robert de Eslington, his son, announced in the latter inquisition to be his heir, and to be up wards of the age of twenty. In the 14th of king Henry IV. a mediety of it was possessed by Thomas de Heselrige, son of William, and brother of Donald de Hesel- rige, ancestor of the Heselriges of Noseley, in Leicestershire. He had also the manor of Whittingham. Eslington, in the 36th king Henry VIII. was the manor of the knightly family of the Colhngwoods, by whom it was possessed through a long succession ; by Sir John Collingwood, high sheriff of Northumberland in that year : by Sir Robert Colling wood, high sheriff of Northumberland, 5 king Edward. VI. ; and by Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, who was twice high sheriff of Northumberland during the reign of queen EHzabeth. He was renowned among the fierce Borderers for his activity and gallantry. At a meeting held by the wardens of the Marches, at the Reidswire, in 1575, for amicably settling disputes, the proud and fiery chiefs quarrelled, and a sharp skirmish ensued, which terminated in the defeat of the Northumbrians. A poem was written, describing the affair, by a Scotchman who was present. In enumerating the prisoners that were taken, he says — " But if he wald a souldier search, Amang them a' were ta'en that night, Was nane sae wordie to put in verse, As Collingwood, that courteous knight." Robert Collingwood possessed Eslington, 14 king Charles I. ; George Collingwood, 26 king Charles II. ; and George Collingwood, 1 king George I. He was attainted in 1716. On Eslington being forfeited to the crown, it was purchased by Colonel George Liddell, a younger son of Sir Thomas Liddell, of Ravensworth, Bart, who left it to his nephew, Henry Lord Ravensworth. On his lordship's death, it devolved on his nephew, the late Sir Henry Liddell ; whose son, Sir Thomas Liddell, now Lord Ravensworth, is the present proprietor. Callaly Castle, the residence of the ancient family of the Claverings, is seated two miles west of Whittingham. The tower at the west end of the building is evi dently of great antiquity, but the date of its foundation has not been preserved. The centre, and the tower to the east, are of a later era. The great saloon in this ancient mansion deserves particular notice. It is 45 feet in length, and 23 feet in height ; and is decorated with a great profusion of beautiful and highly-finished stucco-work. Two galleries, one at each end, supported by large pillars, add much to the splendour of its appearance. About half a mile from the house, a lofty hill, called the Crag, rears its towering head : it is covered with wood to the very summit ; and the bold projecting rocks, which overhang the trees, display to the eye of the beholder a prospect truly grand 28 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. and majestic. At the base of the Crag, to the east, rises the Castle-hill, of a conic form, and, hke the former, shrouded in a wood. On its highest elevation, which is flat and circular, and contains an area of two acres, are seen large remains of a fortified camp, supposed to have been of Roman origin. The summit was surrounded by a high wall, and on the most accessible sides by a deep ditch, hewn out of the rock, and this again flanked by a wall on the opposite side. About 100 paces down the decli vity to the west, was raised another wall, similar to the former. These works appear to have been of considerable strength, for, though now in ruins, they measure not less than seven yards to the bottom of the ditch. The whole fortified space of the hill comprised about six acres. The pleasure-grounds and plantations round the house are very extensive, and, upon the whole, exhibit some of the finest picturesque and romantic scenery in the county. At the foot of the garden runs a handsome serpentine sheet of water, which falls over a cascade into a spacious fish-pond. There are also two others below, divided by a narrow embankment. They are all well stored with fish, and, being surrounded with wood, add greatly to the beauty of a shaded walk, which winds on a gentle slope near the verge of the water. Callaly was the villa of William de Callaly, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. and of his son Gilbert de Callaly, in the same reign, who granted it, with the manor of Yetlington, to Robert Fitz-Roger, baron of Warkworth and Clavering ; which grant was confirmed by the crown, 55 king Henry III. This family of the Claverings derive their descent, in the male fine, from Charlemagne. The old family name of the Claverings was de Burgh, and the late Marquis of Clanricarde, descended from the same stock, obtained his majesty's leave to assume the name and arms of De Burgh in 1752. Eustace de Burgh, a noble Norman, had two sons, who came over with Wilham the Conqueror ; Serlo de Burgh, who built the castle of Knaresburgh in Yorkshire, and dying without issue, left the possession of it to his brother Joannes MonoCulus, the other son, who married and had issue, Paganus, Eustace, and William, which three brothers were witnesses to the royal foundation of the abbey of Cirencester, in the county of Gloucester, in 1133. Paganus Fitz-John dying without issue, was succeeded by Eustace Fitz-John,* his brother, who married, first, Agnes, daughter of William Fitz-Nigel, baron of Halton, constable of Chester, and Viscount Constantine, in Normandy ; and had by her a son called Richard Fitz-Eustace, baron of Halton! &c. &c. who married Albreda, daughter and heir of Robert de Lizures, and had by her a son, John, who took the name of Lacy, and arms of constable of Chester, from Robert Lacy, his mother's half brother, by the maternal side. He was lord of Flam- * Sir William Dugdale says, that Eustace Fitz-John was one ofthe first peers of England, and of infinite familiarity with king Henry I. as also a person of great wisdom and judgment in counsel; that he gave twenty shillings rent in Serlingham to the monks of St. Peter's, in Gloucester ; one ox-gang of land to the church of Flamburgh ; as also to the churches of Culton and Scalleby, and to the canons of Briddlinoton ; that he founded the monastry of Alnwick in Northumberland, and those of Walton and Malton in Yorkshire, and amply endowed them witli lands and revenues ; and says also, that Eustace Fitz-John was slain in an expedition against the Welch, anno 1154, 3 Henry II. dying with this honourable character, that he was a, great man, one ofthe chief peers of England, most eminent for his great wealth and wisdom, WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 29 borough, baron of Halton in Cheshire, &c. &c. &c. This branch of the family having successively married into the illustrious houses of William Maundeville, Earl of Essex and Albemarle, Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, Robert de Quincey, Earl of Lincoln, and that of the Earl of Salisbury, the daughter of , which last named marrying Edmund Lacy, then Earl of Lincoln, Baron of Halton, Lord of Pontefract and Blackburne and Flamborough, and constable of Chester ; he had by her an only daughter, Alice, married to Thomas, son of Edmund Earl of Lancaster, brother of king Edward I. Alice having no children, settled all her large inheritance on the Lancaster family. Richard Fitz-Eustace left another son, called Roger Fitz-Richard, first baron of Warkworth, in the county of Northumberland. Eustace Fitz-John married, secondly, Beatrix, only daughter and heir of Ivo de Vescy, by which marriage he acquired the baronies of Alnwick and Malton, and other large possessions ; he had by this his second wife, one son, who took the name and arms of de Vescy from his mother, and to him the castle and manor of Alnwick, &c. descended : he married Burga, sister of Robert Stuteville, lord of Knaresborough, by whom he had a son, Eustace de Vescy, who married Agnes, daughter of William the Lion, king of Scotland, and whose son William de Vescy became one of the compe titors for the crown of that kingdom, in the famous contest between Bruce and Ba- liol. Alnwick and its dependencies continued in this branch of the family for many generations, until at length it came to the illustrious house of Percy, in whose pos session it still continues. Roger Fitz-Richard, first baron of Warkworth, married Eleanora (sister of Alicia, who married Vere, from whom the Earls of Oxford derive their descent ; they were both daughters of Henry de Essex, baron of Raleigh) : he had by her a son called Robert Fitz-Roger. Robert Fitz-Roger, baron of Warkworth, and founder of the monastry of Langley, in the county of Norfolk, married Margaret, only daughter and heiress of William de Cayheto. Margaret had been married before to Hugo de Cressey, and had by him Roger de Cressey. Roger de Cressey married Isabella de Rie, and had by her four sons, who all died without issue ; so that the barony of Horford in Norfolk, after their death, came to the heirs of Robert Fitz-Richard. King Richard gave him the lands of Eure, in Buckinghamshire, and he was sheriff for many years of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Northumberland, He had by his wife Margaret a son, called John Fitz-Robert. John Fitz-Robert, baron of Warkworth and Clavering (in Essex), married Ada, daughter and heir of Hugh de Baliol, and great aunt of Baliol, king of Scotland, and had by her three sons ; the first was Roger Fitz-John, baron of Warkworth and Cla vering ; the second, Hugo de Eure, from whom the lords Eure descend ; and the third, Robert de Eure, from whom the Eures of Axholm, in the county of Lincoln, draw their pedigree. Roger Fitz-John, baron of Warkworth and Clavering, died in 33 Henry III. and left a son called Robert Fitz-Roger, very young, who was placed under the guardian ship of William de Valence, the king's brother. Robert Fitz-Roger Lord Clavering, baron of Warkworth and Clavering, died in the fourth year of the reign of Edward II. : he was called to the House of Peers from the 23d of Edward I. to the 4th of VOL. II. H 30 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. Edward II. inclusively* He married Margeria de la Zouch, grand-daughter of Ala nus de la Zouch, Earl of Britany, and had by her seven sons. The eldest, John, to whom king Edward I. gave the sirname of Clavering, from Clavering in Essex, the chief place of his estates. 2d, Edward; 3d, Alexander; 4th, Robert; 5th, Henry; 6th, Roger ; 7th, Alanus, who alone left male issue, and from whom the family of the Claverings of Cabaly are lineally descended. John, surnamed Clavering Lord Clavering, baron of Warkworth and Clavering, was possessed of all the estates which belonged to his father : he married Honisia, daughter of Robert de Tibertot. He died at his manor of Ayno, in Northamptonshire, anno 1332, and was buried in the conventual church of the abbey of Langley, which was founded by his ancestors. He was called to the House of Peers from the 28th of Edward II. to the 5th of Ed ward III. He left issue an only daughter, called Eva, who had four husbands ; Thomas de Audly, who died without issue ; 2, Ralph Lord Nevill, of Raby Castle, who had by her two sons ; 3d, Ralph de Ufford ; 4th Robert Benkale.f Her father having no male issue, settled his manors in Northumberland upon the crown, who. gave them to the house of Percy ; Ayno in Northamptonshire, and Horford in Nor folk, he gave to Lord Nevill and his heirs ; and Clavering in Essex, and Bliburg in Suffolk, to his brother Edmund, for hfe, with remainder to Lord Nevill and his heirs, to whom they descended. Alanus Clavering, knt. married Isabella, daughter of Sir William Riddell, and by her acquired considerable possessions at Duddoe, Greenlaw, Tilmouth, &c. The subsequent generations of the Clavering family married successively into the families of Heaton, Reims, and Fenwick of Fenwick Tower. The Claverings of * Robert Fitz-Roger, Lord Clavering, was in possession of the manors of Clavering in Essex, Horford in Norfolk, Bliburg in Suffolk, Eure in Buckinghamshire, Whalton in Northumberland, with the manors thereto belonging, viz. Lington, Linton, Eshot, Bockenfield, Horton, Ogle, South Gosforth, Newenham, Denton, Faudon, Kington, Newbiggin ; also certain lands in Shottover, Glendale, Herle, Kirk-Harle, Chevernale, and Riplington; as also of the manors of Newburne, with the hamlets of Whalebottle, Deanlaw, Boterlaw, Tro« kerlaw, the town and manor of Corbridge, the manor and castle of Warkworth, with its dependencies, viz. Berling, Acklington, half of Bitilstone, fourth part of Togstone ; also of the manor of Rothbury, with its de pendencies, viz. Newton, Thropton, Snitter, and the Forest. t It is remarkable, that in the short space of six generations, there were amongst the descendents of Eva, Baroness Clavering, the following illustrious personages : — A king of England, a queen of England, a Duchess of York, a Duchess of Clarence, a Duke of Bedford, a Marquis of Montacute, an Earl of Westmoreland, an Earl of Northumberland, an Earl of Salisbury, an Earl of Kent, the celebrated Earl of Warwick, a Lord Lati mer, a Lord Abergaveny, an archbishop of York, and an Earl Marshal of England. The three principal male branches, that of John Fitz-Robert, lineal ancestor of the Claverings, of Callaly, and those of Lacy and Vescy, who had respectively assumed those names as above-mentioned, were amongst the twenty-five principal English barons (many of whom were also their near relations, as appears from the pedigree ofthe Clavering family) who headed and lead on almost all the nobility of this kingdom, to obtain the celebrated Magna Charta, the bulwark of British liberty, from king John, in obtaining and securing which they had a most eminent and distinguished share : they all three signed it with the barons above-mentioned, on behalf of the whole kingdom, at Runnimede, after having previously marched to London, and taken king John prisoner in the Tower. John Fitz-Robert and his cousin Vescy were, together with Lord Robert Fitz-Walter, the general in chief, the most obnoxious to king John of all the barons, and incurred the severest threats from his displeasure. WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 31 Learchild and Tilmouth, ancestors of the late bishop of Peterborough, were descended from Robert Clavering, who died in the reign of Edward IV. Robert Clavering, son and heir of John Clavering and Elizabeth Fenwick, married Ann, daughter of Sir Thomas Grey, of Horton Castle, from which last are descended the families of Sir Thomas Clavering, of Axwell Park, Bart, and of Charles Clavering, Esq. ; also the Claverings of Chopwell. Robert Clavering, son of Robert Clavering and Elizabeth Grey, married Mary, daughter of Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, of Eslington : his eldest son, Sir John Claver ing, married Ann, daughter of Sir Thomas Riddell, of Gateshead ; Sir John, and his three eldest sons, Sir Robert, Ralph, and Thomas, were eminently distinguished for the most disinterested and devoted attachment to their king under the severest trials and sufferings, until the restoration of Charles II. to the throne of these kingdoms.* * Copy ofthe Certificate ofthe Services qf Sir John Clavering and Sir Robert Clavering, given under the hand of Sir Marmaduke Langdale. " These are to certifie all whome it may concerne, That Sir John Clavering, late of Callaly, in the county of Northumberland, knight, deceased, having from the beginninge of the late unhappy troubles, faithfully served his late maiestye as a commissioner of array in those partes untill they were over-run by the Scotch, was in the latter end of 1644 made a prisoner, and conveyed to Yarmoth, thence to Norwich, and thence to London, where in the yeare 1647 I had often occasion to treat with him touching his maiesty's then agreement with the Scotch for theire advancing into England. But the said Sir John having been, as he several times told me, barbarously used in many prisons and common gaoles, dyed a prisoner in London, in the latter end of 1647. " His eldest sonne, Sir Robert Clavering, in the beginning of the said troubles, at his owne chardge, raised a regiment of horse, and another of foote, with some troopes of dragoones ; with these he often eminently served his late maiestie, as appeared by their many engagements, more particularly at Aderton moor fight, where he (commanding the forlorne hope) was very instrumental in gayning that greate victory, which then made us masters of the north. Att Gainsbrough, where the Lord Willoughby of Parham was quite over- throwne, and Lincolnshire reduced for his maiesties servise. At Corbridge, against the Scotch, where (for his good service) the Marquisse of Newcastle conferred on him the honnor of Knighthood ; and for his gallant behaviour at these and other encounters, he made him commander in cheiffe of the counties of Northumber land and Durham, which were then wholely possest by the Scotch (except the garrisons of Newcastle and Tinmouth), but he in a short tyme worsted the field forces of the enemy in those parts, tooke by assault the castle of Morpeth and the South Shields forte ; and having cleared those countys of the enemy, marched with a very considerable body of horse, foote, and dragoons, towards York ; but the enemy's whole army being betweene him and us, he could not joyne with us untill after the battel!, and Prince Rupert giving him for severall dayes the care of the army, he, by long marches with his foote, contracted a feavor, whereof he dyed about three weekes after the fight, his brothers Ralph and Thomas being then both engaged without him, his foote regiment was put into Carlisle, and there continued all that longe and notable seige : his horse regiment was given to Collonell Foster (his Lieutenant Collonell) under whome it stoode, and served with fidelity and honour untill the now Earl of Bristoll disbanded all the northerne horse in Cumberland, and went for Ire land ; the two brothers, Ralph and Thomas, after that passing their tyme in severall prisons, and many hard- shipps; and so soon as opportunitie was offered, appeared at the first with me in the engagement of 1648, and there to their utmost power, advanced his maiesties service ; and escaping from Preston fight, they both fled beyond the seas, and there attended his now maiestie untill their poverty inforced Ralph to retire into England, and Thomas to seeke his livelihood in foraigne parts, where he is yet, as I am informed ; and Ralph showed himself constant and loyall by his continued sufferings in prison and fortune, and by his best endea vours for restoringe of his now sacred maiestie. Given under my hand and seale att armes this 22d day of 32 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. William Clavering, the fourth son of Sir John, married Barbara, daughter of Henry Lambton, of Lambton, in the county of Durham, Esq. from whom the family ot Edward Clavering, of Berrington, Esq. is descended. Ralph Clavering, the eldest surviving son of Sir John, married Mary, daughter ot William Middleton, of Stokeld, Esq. and had by her John Clavering, who married <* August, in the 12th yeare ofthe raigne of our most gracious Soveraigne Lord King Charles the Second over England, &c. and in the yeare of our Lord 1660. " MAR. LAN GDALE." Copy of the Certificate of the Services of Sir John Clavering and Sir Robert Clavering, from the Marquis of Newcastle. " These are to certifie all whome it may concerne, That Sir John Clavering, late of Callaly, in the county of Northumberland, Knight, deceased, did in the yeare 1642, when I came into those parts with his late ma iesties, commission, appear as a commissioner of array for that service, and was very active and diligent therein, and soe continued, untill by the loss of those parts, he was made a prisoner by the adverse party. His then eldest sonne Sir Robert Clavering did likewise, at his own charge, by commission from mee, raise a regiment of horse, and a regiment of foote, and some troopes of dragoons, with which he often and signally served his late maiestie, particularly at Aderton moor fight, where he having the forlorne hope, contributed not a little to that great victory which cleared the North. At Gainsbrough, where the Lord Willoughby, of Runham, was totally routed, and Lincolnshire regained, and att Corbridge against the Scotch ; in all which, as att other tymes, his personall service and that of his regiments was eminent, and in the service of Cor bridge, he soe well behaved himselfe, that I confered on him the honnor of knighthood, for his handsome actions rendered there ; after that I gave him the command of the countys of Northumberland and Durham, which were all. then over-run by the Scotch (except the garrisons of Newcastle and Tinmouth). But he quickly worsted their field forces in those countrys, took their garrisons of Morpeth castle and South Shields forte by force, with other places, so that he againe cleared those partes of the enemy, and marched with a considerable body of horse, foote, and dragoons, towards Yorke, but came short of the fight by reason that the enemy was betwixt him and us, and about three weekes after dyed of a ffeavor, contracted by longe marches, under Prince Rupert, into Lancashire. Given under my hand and seale at Armes this forth day of Aprill, in the thirteenth yeare of the raigne of our most gratious soveraigne Lord Kinge Charles the Second over England, &c. and in the yeare of our Lord 1 66 1. " M. NEWCASTLE." Copy of a Letter from Pi ince Rupert to Sir Robert Clavering. " Sir, — I formerly desired you to repayr unto Skipton in Craven, and there to expect my further directions and orders, I shall now second the same thinge, and doo require you to hasten thither with what force of horse and foote you can possibly gather together, leaving sufficient and competent strength in your several garrisons for the defence and maintenance of them. And that in your absence the country may not be desti tute of a fit commander, whose interest in the affections of the people of those parts, and whose fidelity to his majesty is best knowne to yourselves ; I have sent you a blanke commission, that such a person may be elected by the generall consent of the gentlemen of the county of Northumberland, whose knowne worth and ability doo render him fittingly qualifyed for soe great a trust; and when you have resolved upon such an one, you may insert his name into the commission, which will authorise him to command in your absence. In which particular I doubt not but you will all unanimously agree to doo that which may most advance his majesties service, I shall desire you to give me frequent advertisement of the times and places of your mo, tion, and such other particulars as may be requisite to acquaint me with. So I rest « Liverpoole, June 11, 1644. "Your friend, RUPERT, " For Sir Robert Clavering these." EDLINGHAM PARISH. 33 Ann, daughter of William Lord Widdrington, Baron of Blankney, by Elizabeth Bertie, heir of Sir Peregrine Bertie, and niece to the Right Hon. the Earl of Lindsey, lord high chamberlain of England. His eldest son, Ralph Clavering, Esq. married Mary, daughter of Thomas Staple- ton, Esq. of Carleton, in the county of York, whose eldest son, Ralph Clavering, Esq. married Frances, daughter of John Lynch, Esq. and had by her John Clavering, Esq. the present possessor of Callaly Castle, who married, first, Christiana, only daughter of the late Sir Edward Swinburne, of Capheaton, Bart. ; she died January 5, 1818 : he married, second, Catherine, daughter of the late Thomas Selby, Esq. of Biddleston, by whom he has issue. Ralph Clavering, Esq. married also Mary, the daughter of Edward Walsh, Esq. and had by her a son, Edward, and several daughters. Lorbottle. — This township, which presents nothing worthy of notice, is situated on the north side of Lorbottle Burn, and on the south extremity of the parish. EDLINGHAM PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Eghngham, on the east by Alnwick, on the south and south-west by Longframlington and Rothbury, and on the west by Whittingham. It is about 3^ miles long, and above 2 miles in breadth, and contains 120 houses and 666 inhabitants. Edlingham. — This small village stands at the distance of six miles south by west from Alnwick. The church is dedicated to St. John Baptist, and the living is a dis charged vicarage, valued in the king's books at £6, 14*. 6d. and is in the gift of the dean and chapter of Durham. The castle stands near the head of a narrow valley, and consists chiefly of an old grey tower. It was held in the reign of king Henry II. by John, son of Walden, of the barony of Earl Patrick, for one soar-hawk, or sixpence. It was the seat and manor of Sir Roger Hastings, knt. who bore a captain's commission in the expedition against the Moors, I king Henry VIII. 1509 ; as did Sir Ralph de Ilderton. It came afterwards into the possession of Thomas Swinburn, son of John Swinburn, of Nafferton Hall, Esq. as was found by an inquisition, 10 queen Elizabeth, He was succeeded by his son, George Swinburn, who had two sons and three daughters, by Margaret the daughter of — Haggerston, Esq. of Haggerston ; the younger son married the daughter of Robert Raymes, of Shortflat, Esq. ; the eldest daughter, Margaret, to Roger Proctor, of Shawdon, Esq. ; the second daughter to Sir George Heron, of Chipchase, knt, ; and the third daughter to Robert Roddam, of Roddam, Esq. The male heirs failing in John Swinburne, son of Thomas, in the reign of king Charles I. and his eldest sister and sole heir, Margaret, marrying William Swinburn, Esq. of Capheaton, these two houses were united. It thus came into the possession of the late Sir Edward Swinburn ; and at his decease devolved on his son, the pre sent Sir John E. Swinburn, Bart, of Capheaton. The Witch of Edlingham was a poor old woman, named Margaret Stothard. The following account of her accusation may be relied on as authentic, it being copied from the originals, which are preserved among the records of the county. It must be vol. ii. I 34 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. perused with interest by the curious reader, as presenting a striking picture of the unceasing distress to which the mind is exposed, when darkened by ignorance, an d terrified by the awful phantoms of superstition. Under such circumstances, every sentiment of humanity is proscribed ; and even indigence, infirmity, and old age, be come the common objects of gloomy suspicions, and of the most cruel persecutions. "ilortfjUlttfJCt. — The information of John Mitt's Edlingham Castle, in the said County, Yeom, taken upon oath this 9Sd day of Jan. Ano R Rs Caroli sed. Sfc. uno A. D. 1682-3 Before Henry Qgle-> of Eglingham, Esq. one ofhis Majesties Justices ofthe peace for this County, See. " Informeing sayth that about the Spring of the yeare, for three yeares or thereabout's, this informant on a Sabath day at night, being lyeing in his bedd, and had not slept any, he the said Informant did heare a great blast of wind as he thought goe by his window, & immediatly following there was something fell with a great weight upon his hart, and gave a great crye like a Catt, and then after another in the same manner, and just as those was ended there appeared a light at his bedd foot, and did in the same light see Margaret Sto thard or hir Vission to the best of his knowledge, so the povre of this Informant's speach being taken from him at the tyme, and as soune as ever he recoverd strenth to speake, he cryed out the Witch, the Witch, soe his famalie asking what was the matter with him, this informant assured his Wife and the rest of the famalie that the Witch Margaret Stothard had been upon him soe the said Informant was in such a Condition,that they were forced to hold him, and they could not get him holden, but was forced to come and fetch a brother of his to helpe them, & severall tymes this Informant haith had that truble, and alwayes before it came he would heare the blast of wind as aforesaid come by his window that he would been if such a fright that the very haires of his head would stand upward's untill such tymes that he gote up and lighted a candle & taken his Bible & readd which would something quallifie his feare, & this Informant further sayth that sometyme about somer gon a yeare this Informant being abroad at his Landlord paying his rent and comeing home at night and come downe the street hard by the doore of the said Margaret Stothard & here came a flash of fire over before him and as he thought went to her dore, soe not at all being afraid for the fire untill his horse tooke to a stand and would neither goe back nor forward then he began to be afraid and his haire stood up ward on his head, then he cryed O Lord deliver me for thy mercy saike and for thy owne name saike after that the Horse went forward and went home and the said Informant continued in greate feare all that night soe that he was forced to send for his brother and other neighbour's to stay with him that nio-ht and further saith not." "'NotttfU'ttibet,— The information qfWm. Collingwood, qf Edlingham, in the County qf North. umberland aforesaid. " Informing sayth that about eight or nine years agoe to the best of this Informant's knowledge one Jane Carr late of Lemendon in the said County and this Informant being in discourse together about one Margaret Stothard of Edlingham aforesaid and the said Jane Carr with weeping tears told this informent how she had charmed a childe of hir's that was unwell for she said that there came in a woman that said two tymes over, here's a fine childe and the woman going away the childe tooke a shrieking & cryeing that it had almost skirled to death and the said Margaret Stothard being in the towne in the mean tyme and being a reputed Charmer for such sudden distempers she the said Jane Carr caled hir in, to see the child; and when she came in she the said Jane Carr told hir that she believed the child had received wronge and she the said Margaret Stothard took the childe in hir arms and what she said to it she knoth not, but she put hir mouthe to the childe's mouth and made such chirping and sucking that the mother of the said childe thought that she had sucked the hart of it out, and was sore affrighted, and then she gave the childe to the mother and said she would warrant the childe well enough— soe the said Margaret Stothard went forth and satt downe on a stone in the entrie of the said house, and there began to rave herself and rift and gaunt in such an odd EDLINGHAM PARISH. 35 manner that she. had almost affrighted the mother of the said child out of hir witts, soe the said Margaret Stothard riseing up and goeing away, there was a little calfe tyed in a band in another little room, and when she was gon the calfe went perfectly madd, so that they seeing nothing at the calfe but death they kyld the calfe, soe that they did really believe that by hir charming or witchcraft the distemper was taken of the childe and laid uppn the calf aforesaid, and further sayth not." ,cifrortf)Um6rr. — The information qf Jacob Mills, qf Edlingham, Castle, in the said County. " Informing sayth that upon Satterday last the 20th of Jan. one Alexander Nickle of Larbotle and his wife told this Informant, that about eight years agoe or there about's they the said Alexander Nickle & Wife had a childe dyed and before ever it was any thing unwell to there knowledge there came into the house one Margaret Stothard of Edlingham, and the said Alexander's wife being in the house among hir children the said Margaret asked hir almes of hir and the woman being afraid of her by the ill fame she bore in the coun try that she was a witch, this informant is not possitive whether she refused to give hir almes or that she had it not to give it hir, soe the said Margaret Stothard went away, and after she was gon one of the childer said to her mother, did not you see what the woman did to you when she went away, and the woman answered noe : so the childe said she, to wit the said Margaret Stothard, did wave at hir mother a white thing three tymes, and the mother said she did not care for hir, what she did, for she hoped the Lord would protect hir from any such as she was. But next morneing before day the childe grew unwell, and continued all the day very ill, still crying out the woman that waved the white thing at you is above me pressing of me and licke to bricke my backe and press out my hart, and so the childe continued still cryeing out in that manner, untill next morning againe about cocke crow, and then dyed soe that they veryly believe she was the death of the said childe, and further sayth not." " Alexander Nickle, ihejatlier ofthe child, deposed to the same effect, adding further — '•' That seeing the childe in the sad condition went up to Cartenton to my Lady Widdrington, and told hir the childe's condition, and the Ladye's answer was, that she could not understand any distemper the childe had by the circumstances they told her, unless she to wit, the childe was bewitched." " fyQVtfyWXibtX, — The information qf Isabel Maine qf Shawdon, in the said County, Spinster. " Informing sayth that about three or four years ago or there abouts, to the best of this Informant's know ledge ;v this Informant being retained in the service of one Jacob Pearson of Titlington in the said county, Gent, and having the charge of the house and milkness ; this Informant sayth that their milkness went wrong, that she to wit, the said Informant could never get any cheese made of it as she used to doe formerly, soe that she really believed that it was wronged by some witch or other ; and one Margaret Stothard of Ed lingham in the said county being a reputed charmer ; this Informant accidentely meeting with a woman that lived in the same town where the said reputed charmer lived, and she the said Informant desired the said woman that she would speacke to the said Margaret Stothard and tell her in what condition their milk was in ; which the said woman did, and the said Margaret Stothard said to the said woman that she Would war rant to make their milk well enough againe, and about eight days following the said Margaret Stothard -came to this Informant to "Titlington aforesaid, and asked how this Informant's or her Maister's milkness was amended, she the said Informant replyed that it was pretty well now, soe this Informant asked the said Mar garet Stothard the reason why the milk came to be in that condition, she the said Margaret said that it was fore-spoken and that some ill eyes had looked on it ; and this Informant further asked hir, what was the reason that hir Maister's cows swett soe when they stood in the Byar ; and then she bidd hir take salt and water and rubb upon their backs, and she further said to this Informant as touching the milk, allwayes when you goe to milke your cowes put a little salt in your pale or skeel ; this Informant refusing to doe that, she would then given hir a piece of Rowntree wood, and bid her take that alwayes along with hir when she went 36 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D. to the Cowes. Soe this Informant tooke the piece of wood from hir and laid it by, thinking there was noe need for any such thing, there milke then being in a very good condition as usually before, that she the said Informant could then gett both butter and cheese of it, which she could not doe of late before. This Inform ant would then have payd the said Margaret Stothard for hir soe mending or charming of the said milke, and would have given hir a penny, and said it was charmers dues, but she answered and said noe, a little of any thing will serve me, soe this Informant telling hir Maister of it, he gave hir a fleece of woole to give hir the said Margaret Stothard, and this Informant gave hir a little more to it; and after that they had their milke jn very good order ; and this Informant further sayth that the said Margaret Stothard said if you judge any person that haith wronged your milke, take your cowe-tye and aske the milke againe for God's sake, and she the said Informant answered she would near doe that, if their milke should never be right any more, and further sayth not." " Capt. et Jurat die Ann. Super cor mi, HENRY OGLE." The result of this tragi-comic affair is not stated. Necessity seems to have compel led poor Margaret to turn the public fears to her own advantage. In a calendar of the prisoners confined in the high castle of Newcastle upon Tyne, at the assizes for Northumberland, in the years 1628 and 1629, preserved in the Mickleton Manuscripts, and printed in the Archasologia iEliana, the following occurs : " Jane Robson, wife of Mathew Robson, of Leeplish, in the libertyes of Tyndale and county of Northumb'land, charged wth the felonious killing of Mabell Robson, the wife of George Robson, of Leeplish aforesaid, his brother in lawe, by sorcery or witch craft, as by mittimus, &c. appeareth ;" committed by " Cuthbert Ridley, clerk, 19° Julij, 1628." Lemington, a seat of the Fenwicks, is pleasantly situated on an eminence, about five miles west-south-west from Alnwick, and one mile north-east from Edlingham. It is a handsome modern building, of hewn freestone, commanding a fine view of the rich valley of Whittingham. The rising grounds which surround the mansion are , judiciously clothed with wood, and the adjoining vale is beautified by Lemington Burn, which runs into the Ain. Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. was a representative in par- hament for the town of Newcastle for many years. He was a most distinguished patron of the rural arts ; and, for his great improvements by planting, was honoured with the gold medal in 1764, by the Society for the Encouragement of the Arts. His son, Robert Fenwick, who resided at Lemington, was high sheriff of Northum berland in 1753. It is now the property of his son, Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. who re sides in the neighbourhood of London. He married a daughter of Collingwood Forster, Esq. of Alnwick. This line of the Fenwicks were owners of Fenwick's Entry, in the Quayside, Newcastle, and had been many years merchants of opulence and repute. They afterwards resided at a mansion-house in Pilgrim-street, now called the Queen's Head Inn. Broom-Park is a neat mansion-house, advantageously situated on the south side of the river Ain, distant about six miles west by south from Alnwick. The pleasure- grounds are tastefully laid out, and the surrounding country presents a variety of pleasant views. It was the seat of the late Bryan Burrell, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1768. He died November 3, 1806, and is succeeded by his son, William Burrell, Esq. who was high sheriff of the county in the year 1811. EDLINGHAM PARISH. 37 Bolton is a small village, situated on the north side of the Ain, about two miles east by north from Whittingham, and 5^ miles west from Alnwick. It has a chapel belonging to the vicarage of Edlingham. Here was an hospital, founded by Robert de Ros,* Baron of Wark, before the year 1225, for a master and three chaplains, thirteen leprous men, and other lay-brethren, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, or the Holy Trinity ; subordinate to the abbey of Ryeval, and the priory of Kirkham, in Yorkshire. He gave it the villa, lordship, impropriation, and advowson of Bolton, and a waste of 140 acres ; a corn-mill and a tenement at Mindrum ; lands ut Paston, and at Kilham. He also gave it the villa, manor, impropriation, and advowson of Straunston, and his estates of the Pauntons within that lordship, near Grantham, in Lincolnshire. Beside an estate at Elwell, in Swanesland, in Yorkshire, with pas turage for 300 sheep, near the river Humber ; a corn-mill and a tenement at Middle- ton, near Dalton ; and lands at Garton ; both in the county of York. The master, chaplains, and brethren of the hospital, were to keep a good table, dress neatly, and provide themselves with proper necessaries and conveniences out of their annual re venues, and apply the remainder to the relief of the poor, and helpless strangers. At the dissolution, it came, with the manor and villa, into the possession of the Colling- woods of Eslington. It belonged to Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, 10 queen EHzabeth ; and to Robert Collingwood, 14 king Charles I. In the 2d queen Anne, 1702, it was the seat and manor of William Brown, Esq. high sheriff of Northumberland in that year; and of Nicholas Brown, Esq. high sheriff of Northumberland, 1748 ; and afterwards of his son-in-law, the late Matthew Forster, Esq. a younger branch of the house of Etherstone, and who was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1765. Bolton came next into the possession of the co-heiress of his late widow, Mrs. Forster, daughter of Nicholas Brown, Esq. above-mentioned. Before the battle of Flodden, Sir Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, was at this village, on Monday, 5th September, 5 king Henry VIII. 1513 ; where all the noble men and gentlemen met him with their retinues, to the number of 26,000 men, among whom were Lords Clifford, Coniers, Ogle, Scroope, and Lumley, Sir William Percy, Lionel Percy, Sir George Darcy, Sir William Buhner, of Brancepeth Castle, in the county of Durham, and Richard Tempest, Esq, Learchild, the property of Thomas Buston, Esq. is one mile west from Edling ham. Abberwick township includes the north-west part of the parish adjoining Alnwick moor. It belongs to William Burrell, Esq. of Broom-Park. * Charter.— Robert de Roos to all faithful Christians greeting. Know ye, that I have granted, and given, and confirmed, to God, and the master and brethren of the hospital of the Blessed Mary and Saint Thomas the Martyr, at Bolton, in Northumberland, the manor, lordship, and impropriation (as above), to support a master, three brethren, three chaplains, and thirteen leprous laymen. Witness, Stephen, archbishop of Can terbury ; Walter Grey, archbishop of York ; Richard de Marisco, bishop of Durham ; Hugh, bishop of Wells j — bishop of Lincoln ; Robert de Lisle, dean of York; William Thorney, dean of Lincoln ; William, abbot of Reivall ; Adam, abbot of Melrose ; William, abbot of de Valle Dei, VOL, II (23) K 38 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. WEST DIVISION. ALWINTON PARISH. This parish extends from the Borders of Scotland, at Makendon, to Burn Foot, near Trewitt Mains, a distance of about 12 miles ; and from Dryhope southward to Farnham, above 6 miles, lt is divided into eleven townships, and contains 155 houses, and 900 inhabitants. The parochial chapelry of Holystone, or Holystone, is usually attached to this parish in civil and ecclesiastical matters. From official docu ments, it appears that the school at Harbottle was founded under the will of Mr. W. Dixon, who left a house in Newcastle upon Tyne, which he directed to be sold, and the produce applied towards the education of 12 boys or girls of Al win ton and Holy stone. The funds are not quite £350, in the hands of three trustees, producing £14, 10*. The number of children taught gratis have been increased to 16, four of whom have prizes given them (viz. two belonging to the Established Church, and two to the Dissenters) for saying their catechism best, and who are most regular in their at tendance at church or meeting : and the master takes about 38 other scholars, 13 of whom are paid for by Thomas Clennell, Esq. who also provides books for them and the free children. There is also a dames' school here. The school at Nine-banks contains above 30 children, the master of whom receives a small endowment of £l per annum, besides 5*. per quarter from each scholar. There is another day-school at this place, consisting of 24 children ; and a Sunday-school, where about 60 are in structed. To the day-school at Carsheild, comprising 35 children, Mr. and Mrs. Beaumont and their predecessors have generally contributed £10 per annum. A commodious school-room and dwelling-house for the master were lately built at Ne- therton, under the patronage of Walter Selby, Esq. It is attended by 35 children. The school at Burrowdon contains 25 scholars. There is sometimes a school at Lin- bridge. The school at Halystone was lately relinquished by the master, as not worth his attendance, though he had the assistance of a yearly payment of £l, 10*. per annum, issuing from lands belonging to Mr. Dawson, of Alnwick. It is now resumed. William Potts bequeathed by will, dated 1724, the clear annual rent-charge of £l, 10*. for teaching poor children in this parish. Thomas Clennell, by will, in 1701-2, gave to the poor £30, directing the interest to be paid them annually; and James Selby, in 1738, also gave £20 for the same purpose. The sum of £50 was likewise bequeathed to the poor, in 1705, by Ephraim Selby. In 1786, this sum, upon en quiry, was found to be vested in one Charles Selby ; but the interest had not been paid for 20 years previous to that time. Alwinton. — This village is situated near the confluence of the Coquet and the Alwine,* about 19 miles west by south from Alnwick. The church, which is dedi- * A poem, entituled, "The Marriage ofthe Coquet and the Alwine," was, in 1817, printed by John Adam- son, Esq. of Newcastle. It is written in imitation of the marriage of " The Tame and the Isis," by Drayton, as published in the fifteenth song ofthe Poly-Olbion, and is supposed to have been composed about the year ALWINTON PARISH. 39 cated to St. Michael, stands at a short distance from the village, and on the east banks of the Alwine. It presents little worth observation. The Selby family vault is in the chancel, and that of the Clennell family in the body of the church. The living is in the gift of his grace the Duke of Northumberland. Here was an hospital, subor dinate to the nunnery of Holystone. Clennell stands on the east side of the Alwine, and one mile north from Al- winton. It was the seat and manor of the ancient family of the Clennells. In the 18th king Edward I. it was possessed by Thomas Clennell, who in that year obtained a grant of free warren in this manor, and his manor of Elsdon. It belonged to Wil liam Clennell, 12 king Henry VI. ; to Luke Clennell, high sheriff of Northumber land in the year 1727. His eldest son, Thomas Clennell, Esq. left a daughter, who married William Wilkinson, Esq. who thus came into the possession of Clennell. He was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1758, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Thomas Wilkinson, Esq. commonly called Bunker Hill Wilkinson. Biddleston is 16 miles west by south from Alnwick, and 2^ north-east from Al- winton. The seat of Walter Selby, Esq. is finely situated in a most beautiful and romantic spot. It is a large and commodious stone building, recently erected upon the summit of a gradual slope, behind which a stream of water winds through a deep gill, falling, in its course, over several huge rocks. Above rise the hills of Silverton and Harden, from the lofty summits of which the sea may be viewed on a clear day. The south front commands a fine prospect of the pleasant vale of Coquet, terminated by a semicircular ridge of hills, in the midst of which stands Simonside Hill, whose grey top bounds the extensive landscape. Biddleston has long been the seat and manor of the ancient and honourable family of the Selbys. The first of this name on record is Sir Walter de Selby, knt. in the reign of king Henry III. He obtained a grant of Biddleston, which formerly be longed to the Vissards from king Edward I. in the first year of his reign, 1272.* His 1780. The author is unknown, though report attributes it to two different gentlemen, both of whom were well qualified to write such a production. * Copy ofthe Grant of Vissard's Lands to Sir Waller de Selby, Knt. dated ZUh October, 1272, 1 Edward I. " Edwardus Dei Gratia Rex Scotorum Omnibus fidelibus nostris ad quos praesens Carta pervenerit Salutem in Domino sempiternam. Sciatis nos dedisse concessisse, et hac Carta confirmasse dilecto et fideli nostro Waltero de Selby militi, pro bono et laudibili servitio suo, quad nobis impendit et impendet in futurum, omnes terras et omnia tenementa cum pertinentiis quae fuerunt Wellelmi Vissard filii quondam Johannis Vissard militio inimiri et rebellis nostri infra regnum nostrum in manu nostra existentia pro foris factura praedicti Willelmi salvis tamen nobis et hseredibus nostris omnibus terris reditibus et libertatibus ac omnibus proprie- tatibus pertinentiis suis quae denus ad cornam nostram pertinent ac salvo jure aliens cum in de loqui voluerint, Habenda ac tenenda omnia tenementa praedicta una cum omnibus ad dictas terras et tenementa spectantibus, maheriis, Vellis, hamelettis, reditibus honoribus Feodi Militum, marecagiis, voleriis, parcis, pasturis, maris mortui piscariis, aquis stagnis vivariis, Toi theme infang thefe et outflang thefe et cum aliis pertinentiis et libertatibus suis, praefato Waltero haeredibus et assignatis suis de nobis et haeredibus nostris in feodo et haere- ditate in perpetuum faciendo pro eisdem terris & tenementis nobis et haeredibus nostris servitia deinde debita et de jure consueta. In eujus rei testimonium sigillum nostrum huic cartae apponi fecimus. Hie testibus 40 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. successor, Sir Walter de Selby, was governor of Liddle Castle, on the Borders, which, in the 16th king Edward III. 1342, was besieged by David king of Scotland, who had under his command an army of 40,000 men, one half of which was composed of veterans. The castle was taken on the 5th of October, when the enraged prince or dered the gallant Sir Walter to be immediately beheaded, for presuming to interrupt his progress. Biddleston was possessed by James de Selby in the reign of king Richard II. He had two sons, Alexander de Selby, who enjoyed his estates during the reigns of king Henry IV. and V. and Ralph de Selby, a monk at Westminster, one of the barons of the exchequer, privy counsellor to the kings Henry IV. and V. as appears from his epitaph, recorded among the monuments of Westminster abbey.* Biddleston was held by John de Selby, son of Alexander, in the reign of king Henry VI. ; his sister Mary was married to Thomas Haggerstone, Esq. of Haggerstone : by John de Selby, in the reign of king Henry VII. ; and by Percival de Selby, in the reign of king Henry VIII. He was one of the commissioners of the Middle Marches in the 6th of king Edward VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Sir John Collingwood, of Es lington, knt, by whom he had one son and one daughter, Christopher, and Isabella, who married Anthony Fenwick, Esq. of Stanton. Christopher Selby married Elea nor, daughter of Sir William Ogle, of Causey-Park, by whom he had issue, 1. Tho mas ; 2. Margery, who married Ralph Grey, Esq. of Heton ; 3. Isabella, who married Robert Clennel, Esq. of Clennell ; and, 4. Robert, who died without issue. Thomas Selby married, first, Isabella, daughter of Robert Clavering, Esq. of Callaly, by whom he had issue four sons and two daughters: 1. Alexander; 2. Thomas; 3. Robert; 4. Arthur, who died young ; also Ann, and Mary who married Thomas Eden, Esq. Tho mas Selby married, secondly, Agnes, daughter of Gerard Heron, Esq. of Meldpn, by whom he had two sons, Thomas and Ralph, who both died unmarried. He was succeeded by Alexander Selby, his eldest son and heir, who married Joan, daughter of Sir Ephraim Widdrington, of Trewitt, knt. by whom he had two sons and two daughters ; William, who succeeded to his estates ; Robert, who died young ; and Henrico de Bellomonte Comite de Boghan, David Comite de Atholl, Gilberto de Umfraville Comite de Angos, Richardo Tabbot, Alexandre de Mowbray, Eustachio de Maxwell, Henrico de Ferrariis militibus et multis aliis — Teste me ipso apud Rokesburg XXIV ° die Octobris anno Regni nostri primo." * Copy of the Epitaph of Ralph Selby, a Monk at Westminster, who died in 1420, as referred to in the Pedigree. " Here lieth entombed the Body of RALPH SELBY, descended from the ancient Family of the Selbies of Bittelsdun, in the County of Northumberland, a Monk ofthe Fraternity, a learned Doctor in the Civil and Canon Law, and one exceedingly beloved and favoured by King Henry IV. and V. in the eighth year of whose reign he departed this world anno 1420, as by this Epitaph appeareth. " Ecce Radulphus ita Selby hie Cenobita Doctor per merita, prepotens lege perita Legibus Omatus a Regibus et veneratus Ordo ejusque status per cum fit conciliatus M. C. quater X bis post partum Virginis iste Michaelis ffesto tibi spiravit bone Christe." Weaver's Monuments of Westminster Abbey, p. 488 j- 489, ALWINTON PARISH. 41 Mary and Agnes. William Selby was high sheriff of Northumberland, 1 king James I. 1603 :* he married Ellen, daughter of Sir Thomas Haggerstone, Bart, by whom he had issue three sons and three daughters : 1. Thomas, who married, but died without issue ; 2. AViUiam, who died young ; 3. Charles, who thus became heir to the family estates: of his daughters, 1. Alicia, married Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Clennell; 2. Mary, married — GiUibrand, Esq. of Chorley ; 3. Jane, who became a nun at Liege in 1716. Charles Selby married Elizabeth, daughter of — Gillibrand, Esq. of Chor ley, in the county of Lancaster, by whom he had issue three sons and one daughter : 1. Thomas Wibiam; 2. Charles, who died young; 3. Edward, who died 1711 ; and, 4. Ellen, who died young. His son, Thomas William Selby, married Barbara, daugh ter and heir of Christopher Percehay, Esq. of Ryton, in the county of York, by whom he had one son, Thomas, who succeeded to the estates of Thomas Selby, and who married, first, Mary, daughter of Roger Meynell, Esq. of Kivington, in the county of York, by whom he had issue one daughter, Mary. He next married Eleanor, daugh ter of Nicholas Tuite, Esq. by whom he had issue, 1. Thomas, son and heir ; 2. Ni cholas, who married twice, but had no issue ; 3. Charles, who married Bridget Borri, by whom he had two sons and one daughter ; 4. John ; 5. Robert, who married Jeresa Talbot, sister to Charles, 16th Earl of Shrewsbury, and had issue two sons. Thomas Selby, Esq. the next possessor of Biddleston, died in June, 1816, aged 63 years. He built the present commodious mansion-house; and married Catherine, daughter and heir of Ralph Hodshon, Esq. of Lintz, in the county of Durham, by whom he had issue seven sons and three daughters : 1. Thomas, the eldest son ; 2. Ralph ; 3. Edward ; 4. Walter ; 5. Richard ; 6. Albert ; 7. William : his daughters are, Catharine, Henrietta, and Maria. Thomas Selby, Esq. became possessor of the family estates on the death of his father, whom he survived only a short time. He died June 30, 1818. He was a captain in the Coquetdale Rangers, and a gentleman of the most amiable manners. As Edward also died abroad shortly after his brother Thomas, the estates became the property of Walter Selby, Esq. who now resides at Biddleston. Richard is also dead, and Albert died young. Catherine is married to John Clavering, Esq. ; Henrietta has embraced a rehgious hfe; and Maria died in January, 1823. The Selby s pf Bid dleston are one of those ancient, benevolent, and respectable Cathobc families, which do honour to Northumberland, and which form a living and striking proof of the falsehood of the vulgar calumnies promulgated against the professors of the faith of our ancestors. Netherton. — This small village stands on the road side which leads from the Highlands to Alnwick and Morpeth, and is distant 3^ miles east by north from Al- winton. Here are two public houses, and a farmhold at each end of the village. That at the west end is the property of Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston ; and the other belongs to Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. of London. * Five individuals of the Selby family obtained the honour of knighthood from king James : — Sir William Selby, of Biddleston, knighted at Berwick, 1603; Sir George, of Newcastle, the king's hospitable host; Sir William, ofWinlaton, 1613; another Sir William, of the Mote, near Ightham, Kent; and Sir John Selby, of Twisel. — Surtees' Hist, qf Durham. VOL. II. L 42 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. Burrowdon,* which consists of twenty dwelling houses, is situate about a mile to the south-west of Netherton. This place is divided into several freeholds ; but the principal proprietors are Henry Collingwood, Esq. of Lilburn Tower, Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Harbottle Castle, and Thomas Forster, Esq. About a mile and a half to the south-west of Burrowdon stands Charity Hall, the residence of Mr. Robert Wealands. It belongs in perpetuity to the poor of Roth- bury parish, from which circumstance it derives its name. But indeed the appellation is also justly expressive of the kind hospitality shewn by the present occupier to all strangers, and especially to the honest poor, who call at Charity Hall. Sharperton stands on the road to Harbottle, and on the east side of the river Coquet. It belongs to three proprietors, viz. Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Harbottle, Mr. James Dodds, and Mr. Readhead. Farnham lies about a mile further down the river, and is on the southern extremity of the parish. On the south side of the Coquet, near Alwinton, are the traces of an old building, called Barrow Peel. These peels or castlets were numerous in the Border districts in times of turbulence and bloodshed, when family feuds, and the marauding incur- * In January, 1800, an invisible and mischievous apparition played many wonderful pranks at a place called Lark-hall, near this place. The trick (and we may venture to call it such) was conducted with such surprising address, as even to puzzle the sceptic, and to set conjecture at defiance. Lark-hall is a small farm, belonging to Mr. William Walby, of Burrowdon, and was then rented by Mr. Turnbull, a butcher, in Rothbury, who kept his father and mother, two old decent people, at the farm, with a hind and his family, whose characters were more dubious. The two families were divided by a partition, formed by close beds, leaving a narrow dark passage between. The garrets above were kept locked by old Turnbull. At the time mentioned above, knockings and noises were heard in Turnbull's house; the plates, glasses, and tea-ware, left the shelves and were broken ; the chairs and tables danced about the room in the most fantastic manner ; scissars, bottles, wooden dishes, &c. flew in all directions, and sometimes wounded the confused and terrified spectators : a poor tailor was assailed with a tin pot full of water, yet he still had the temerity to stand to his post, till a large rolling-pin descended from the laths and hit him a blow on the shoulders. But one of the most curious tricks was played in the presence of the Rev. Mr. Lauder, lately a dissenting minister at Harbottle, and who came to administer some spiritual comfort and consolation. He had been but a short time in the house, when a Bible moved from the window in a circular manner into the middle of the room, and fell down at his feet ! These singular and incredible facts, with many more which we have not room to mention, are certainly true, as they were attested by a host of respectable witnesses. Twenty guineas were offered for the detection of the fraud, but without success. Two professors of legerdemain, besides many intelligent gentlemen, exa mined the premises with accuracy; but nothing was discovered that could lead to detection. Mr. W W having a reputation for skill in the sciences, was suspected. His visits to Lark-hall were frequent, but some of the most wonderful phenomena took place when he was certainly absent. Some suspicious circumstances were, however, discovered. Nothing was injured in the garret • the hind's bottles and earthenware were respected ; a small iron rod was found in the passage, which fitted a hole made in the back ofhis bed ; and the ghost left the premises shortly after the communication between the families had been nailed up. The affair still continues the subject of wonder to the credulous in almost all parts of the county. The hind's daughter, who acted a very conspicuous part in this wonderful deception exhibits the most uncontrollable rage when any attempt is made to bring the subject forward in discourse, ' ALWINTON PARISH. 43 sions of the Scots, rendered the protection of an ordinary dwelling-house very unsafe. They consisted of single towers of several stories, contrived for the protection of cattle beneath and a family above, and were well calculated for resistance, by a small number of defendants, against a sudden attack. Barrow Burn, which runs into the Coquet at this place, was probably so named from the number of barrows, or funeral tumuli of the Ottadini, in the neighbourhood. A little to the westward stands a hill called Ridlee Cairn, a name clearly derived from a similar circumstance.* * " An urn, made of Roman pottery ware, lightly burnt, was the other day discovered by some workmen, employed by Mr. Grey, of Millfield Hill, in removing a mass of large stones that obstructed the ploughing of a field ; and, under his direction, was removed with little injury from the situation it had occupied probably for fifteen or sixteen hundred years, and now remains safe in his possession. This is the largest and most entire specimen ofthe kind that we remember to have heard of. It is 12 inches in diameter ; cylindrical for 8 inches from the bottom, which part is impressed with a wavy pattern ; it then terminates in a cove about 1 2 inches high, and is calculated f.o hold from 4 to 5 gallons of water. The urn was set upon a flat stone, about 4 feet below the surface, and surrounded by soft alluvial soil, which, from its colour and quality, must have been carried from the borders of a neighbouring brook. A large flat sandstone, which also must have been brought from a considerable distance, was carefully placed over it ; and, above all, an accumulation of whinstones, some of them of a size inconvenient to remove, to the extent of from 80 to 100 cart-loads. Most things of the kind have fallen to pieces when exposed to the air, but this is sufficiently strong to bear to be handled and carried. It contained a quantity of soft dust or powder of a brown colour, and many small pieces of bones that had not been completely consumed by the fire. Those of the head are the most entire, especially parts of the skull and jaw-bones, in which, although the teeth are gone, the sockets that contained them remain as regular as the cells in a honeycomb. From the size of the tumulus, and the pains with which the ashes have been deposited in it, there is little reason to doubt that they are the remains of some person of distinction in his day and generation." — Berwick Advertiser, June 28, 1823. Annexed is an exact engraving, by Mr. Bewick, of this ancient urn, from a drawing executed by Mrs. Grey. In addition to the above account, Mr, Grey states that the spot where it was found appears to have been a knoll, without any appearance of a vallum around it. The cairn that covered it had been pulled down, and the stones removed from time to time, until the ground seemed to be completely cleared ; but the plough, in passing over it last June, touched upon some stones of considerable size. These were re* moved; and, just as the workmen were about to fill up the excavation, Mr, Grey, who happened to be present, observed at the bottom a flat stone, which he found, on striking with a pick, to be a freestone. This excited his curiosity, as there is no freestone on the west side of the Till, and he directed the stone to be carefully raised, when the urn was discovered, em-, bedded in soft alluvial earth, the soil around it being sharp and strong. Unluckily, in raising the stone, one of the instruments slipped from its hold, and injured the top ofthe urn. This curious urn is probably much older than the above writer supposes, and may have been deposited anterior to the conquest of Northumberland by the Romans. That it is not a Roman urn appears evi dent, and for the following reasons : — 1. The Romans buried near their stations, or adjoining the public road, so that most of their funeral remains have long been destroyed ; whereas many of the cairns and barrows of the Celts have been preserved, and are mostly found standing alone in rude grandeur, in the midst of moors or commons. 2. The Romans never raised barrows or cairns over the sepulchres of their great men, either in Italy or in any other part ; it is, therefore, improbable that they should have done so in Britain : but that such 44 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. The eastern part of this parish also contains many aboriginal monuments. About 15 years ago, Mr. Smart, of Trewitt House, on improving a field in the township of Netherton called " Robert's Law," found a number of querns, or hand-millstones, in a large circular camp, the rampart of which has been formed principally of large un dressed stones. Two small silver coins were also found in the same place ; but the impressions were nearly obliterated. According to tradition, the Saxons, on an inva sion of the Danes, marched from this encampment, and encountered the invaders at Battle Bridge, near to Lemington ; but were defeated with great slaughter. Some years ago, a large tumulus was opened between Netherton and Biddleston. It con tained an urn with ashes and charcoal, placed, after the manner of the Britons, within four stones and a cover. Linbrigg, situate at the junction of Ridlee Burn and the Alwine, gives name to a township including an extensive tract of country ; as does Fairhaugh, on Usway Burn, north of the Coquet, though it contains but one dwelling-house and eight in habitants. The land west from Linbrigg consists mostly of beautiful green hills, and is divided into large stock farms. A great number of fine rivulets run through the glens which divide these hills, and are lost in the Coquet. Some of the haughs on the side of this mountain river are very fertile, and have been tilled with advantage. Bygate Hall, Makendon, Loungesknow, and Birdhope, all fine sheep-lands, were sold in 1792 for £16,000 by the late Matthew Bell, Esq. of Wolsington, to the late John Carr, Esq. of Dunston, in the county of Durham. was the practice ofthe ancient Britons is established by the most unequivocal testimony. 3. The Roman ash-urn was surrounded by vessels of very different size and shape, and which, it is conjectured, were used for libation and lusteral purification : but the Britons used only two kinds of small urns ; the one called by Sir Richard Hoar drinking cups, and the other supposed to contain balsams and precious ointments. 4. Roman sepulchres were mostly skilfully designed, built with brick or stone, lined with tiles, and divided into apartments : whereas the kislvaen of the Britons was rudely formed of large slabs of stone, set upright, and protected at the top by a larger one, placed horizontally. To this may be added, that Roman sepulchral inscriptions on stone are always discovered in this county without the least indication of any superincumbent barrow. Although most of the British urns seem to have been made before the use of the turner's lathe, yet many of their vases are fantastically shaped and finely ornamented. See vol. i. p. 385, note. Upon a flat piece of ground, about halfway between Milfield House and Flodden Hill, and little more than 400 yards from the spot where this urn was found, there are traces of an ancient encampment, of a circular form, and defended by a triple ditch and rampier. In the year 1817, Mr. Grey found and removed a tumu lus somewhat similar to the one described above, and about the same distance from the old encampment, but in a different direction. This sepulchre, when opened, presented a most remarkable appearance. In the centre a large urn was found, but in a thousand pieces. It had either been broken to pieces by the stones falling upon it when digging, or had gone to pieces upon the admission of the air. This urn was surrounded by a number of cells, formed of flat stones in the shape of graves, but too small to hold the body in its natural state. These sepulchral recesses contained nothing except ashes, or dust of the same kind as that in the urn. This tumulus has probably been appropriated to the inhumation of some distinct and distinguished family. No vestigia have been discovered in the vicinity calculated to illustrate the history of these funeral deposits HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY. 45 HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY. This parochial chapelry is bounded on the north and east by Alwinton parish, and . is inclosed on the south and west by Elsdon parish. By the last census, it contained 88 houses, and 468 inhabitants. Holystone is a small village, situated on the west side of the Coquet, and on the north side of Holystone Burn, distant 18^ miles west-south-west from Alnwick, and 5ij miles west from Rothbury. The chapel is dedicated to St. Mary, and the living, which is ofthe certified value of £8, is in the gift of the Duke of Northumberland. The principal proprietors here are Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston : R. H. Dawson, Esq, of Alnwick ; and F. C. Forster, Esq. of Campville. This is supposed to have been a place of some consequence in the time of the Saxons, for here, according to the venerable Bede, did Paulinus baptize 3000 persons, on the first introduction of Christianity. Here also was a priory for six or eight Be nedictine nuns, founded by one of the Umfranvilles of Harbottle Castle, who gave them the villa, impropriation, and advowson of Holystone. Alice de Alneto gave them one toft and croft in Etherston ; and Roger Bertram, baron of Mitford, enrich ed them with the whole waste of Baldwins-wood, with liberty of grinding their corn at any of his mills in the parish of Mitford, multure free, and liberty of pasture on the common of Newton and Throphill ; which grants were confirmed to them, 39 king Henry III. 1255. They possessed Corsenhope and Sintill, and 40 acres of land in Caistron. They had the impropriation and advowson of Alwinton, where they had also an hospital. They had, besides, the impropriations and advowson of Corsenside, and the advowson of Harbottle chapel. These two livings of Corsenside and Holy stone were consolidated by Richard Kelloe, bishop of Durham, by his deed, dated Nono die Febraarii Anno Domini 1311, by the desire of the Lord Richard Umfran- ville, their patron, who was admitted into holy orders to be their chaplain and vicar, in order that the pastoral duties might be discharged with honourable zeal and piety. The nuns of Holystone had four houses in Newcastle upon Tyne. In the Lincoln- taxation, 20 king Edward I. their temporalities are rated at £24, a considerable sum in those days. At the dissolution, their annual revenues were valued at £11, 5s. 6d. by Dugdale, and at £15, 10^. 8d. by Speed. The scite of the priory, manor, and villa of Holystone, were in the possession of the crown, 10 queen Elizabeth. Few ves tiges of the priory are now remaining. Some fragments appear in the mill-house, and in some other buildings in the village. On the dissolution, two-thirds of the tythes of Holystone and Alwinton were granted to Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, who sold them to the Saundersons, of Hely, in the county of Durham, of whom they were purchased by the ancestors of Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston. The remaining one-third was granted to the Duke of Norfolk's family, who sold them to the Selby family, and to Mr. Smart, father of John Smart, Esq. of Trewitt House. The Lady's Well, which belonged to the priory, is a beautiful bason of water, the bottom of which is finely variegated with a mixture of green and white sand. It has been walled about with hewn freestone, part of which is still standing, romantically shaded with trees and shrubs. vol. ii. M 46 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. Harbottle* — This is a pleasant village, which lies a mile above Holystone, on the same side of the Coquet. Here are a Presbyterian meeting-house, two respectable shop-keepers, and two public houses, one of which is quaintly called " the House of Commons," being kept by a Mr. John Common, a hearty John-Bull Boniface ; and the business of boot and shoe-making is carried on to some extent. The village is divided amongst seven freeholders. Here is a fair on the 19th of September, for a few cattle, mostly steers and heifers. Harbottle Castle, the seat of Thomas Clennell, Esq. stands at the east end of the village, and close upon the margin of the river. It is a handsome modern-built mansion, and the pleasure-grounds have been tastefully improved by the present proprietor, who has also clothed the surrounding hills with thriving plantations, which impart a rich and comfortable appearance to the scenery. Harbottle Castle occupies a distinguished place in the history of this county. It is boldly seated on a commanding eminence above the river Coquet. The walls of the great tower have a most singular appearance ; part of them being rent asunder from their foundations, and overhanging their base ; and other parts having slidden in large masses half way down the hill, and fixed themselves deep in the earth. A great part of this ancient building was pulled down by one of the Widdringtons, and the materials used for building the mansion-house. The ruins still remaining are of great extent. This castle, in the time of Edward I. was a formidable fortress, sus taining the desperate and reiterated, though unavailing attacks, of the whole body of Scots for two days, on their incursion in 1296. It was also a place of some conse quence in the 6th king Henry VIII. 1515, in which year Margaret, queen dowager of Scotland, daughter to king Henry VII. mother to king James V. grandmother to queen Mary, and great grandmother to king James VI. of Scotland, and first of Eng land, retired to it by the appointment of her brother, king Henry VIII. after her marriage with Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus. In this recess, her daughter, Lady Mary Douglas, was born, 1518 ; afterwards married to the Earl of Lenox, 36 king Henry VIII. 1544. The manor and castle of Harbottle was given by William the Conqueror, in the 10th year of his reign, to Robert de Umfranville, knt. lord of Tours and Vian, otherwise called " Robert with the Beard," by a general grant of the lordship, valley, and forest of Ridds, or Redesdale, with all the castle, manors, lands and woods, pastures, waters, pools, and royal franchises, as they were lately possessed by Mildred, the son of Ak- man, the late lord of Redesdale, to hold by defending that part of the country for ever from enemies and wolves, with the sword which the said king WiUiam had by his side when he entered Northumberland.! The castle and manor of this place was * The name of this place is undoubtedly compounded of two Saxon words, here, in composition har, an army, and botle, a station ; and, in corroboration of the circumstance, the line of road leading from Harbottle into Scotland, by Clennell, is called Clennell Street. Wallis, in his Antiquities of Northumberland, derives the name of Harnham from the same etymon. Walbotlle has evidently been named from a similar circum stance. In one or two instances in Northumberland, botle means merely a dwelling. Lorbottle, in Whitting ham parish, is the property and residence of Adam Atkinson, Esq. This was omitted in the proper place. °" t This service was adjudged to be the service of Grand Serjeantry, 17 king Henry IV. In that year the Court of exchequer ordered a search to be made in the rolls, to find their yearly value. Upon which it was HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY. 47 included in this grant, both being in the valley of Read ; and because by the said grant Robert de Umfranville and his heirs had authority for holding, governing, granting, exercising, hearing, determining, and judging in all pleas of the crown as well as others, happening within the precincts of Redesdale, by any proper officers for the time being, according to the laws and customs of the realm. The castle was appointed and used for the custody of all such malefactors as were taken within the said liberty and jurisdiction, to be kept there as in a prison. In the 20th of king Henry II. this castle was taken by the Scots, but was soon recovered and restored to the same family ; for in the beginning of king Henry III.'s reign, it was in the possession of Robert de Umfranville, who then began to fortify it more than it had been in his ancestor's days ; but he having joined with the barons against king John, the king grew suspicious of him, and therefore ordered, by a writ directed to the sheriff of Northumberland, to impannel a jury of twelve knights of that county to view it, and having so done, to demolish whatsoever had been added thereunto in point of fortification since the late civil wars. After this it appears that this castle had been much neglected, for in 25 Edward III. a petition was exhibited to that prince and his council, assembled in parbament, by Gilbert de Umfranville, setting forth, that he and his ancestors, for time immemorial, used to keep the prison ers, taken within his bberty of Redesdale, in his castle of Harbottle, but that the said castle was so much ruined by the wars with the Scots, that it could not properly re tain them ; whereupon he desired that he might have liberty to keep all such prisoners in his castle of Prudhoe, till he could repair his castle of Harbottle. The king took some time to answer this petition, and having received certain information that the decays and ruins of Harbottle castle were not caused by his own neglect, but by the means and ways alleged, granted him permission to keep his prisoners at Prudhoe Castle for the space of ten years. This Gilbert, who had been summoned to parlia ment from the 6th of Edward III. to the 4th Richard II. died Jan. 7 of that year, and, leaving no issue, his brother Thomas became his heirs, and after him his son, of the same name, who leaving a son and heir, Gilbert, under age, king Richard II. granted, during his minority, the government of his castle of Harbottle to Ralph Earl of Westmoreland. This Gilbert is called by some historians Earl of Kyme, and being slain in the wars of France, left no issue ; so that this castle, with much of his other estate, came to Sir Robert Umfranville, his brother, who also died without issue ; and Walter de Talboys, cousin and heir to the before-named earl, by his sister Elizabeth, succeeded to his estate. Sir William Talboy, knt. successor of Sir Walter, was attainted, after the battle of Hexham Levels, and his estates forfeited to the crown. King Edward IV. in consi deration of the eminent services of Sir Robert Ogle, knt. not only advanced him to the degree and dignity of a baron of this realm, but made him a grant in special tail of the lordship of Redesdale and castle of Harbottle, which he left to Owen Ogle Lord Ogle, his son ; but some historians say, that after this Harbottle came into the possession of the Percy family. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, Harbottle was in the crown, and Sir R. Sadler, in found by an escheator's inquisition, that they were then worth 61. 19s. 8d. per annum; whereupon Walter Tailboys, heir to Robert Umfranville, was adjudged to pay the king that sum annually. 48 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. his letters, recommends it as a proper place for the residence of Sir J. Forster, warden of the Middle Marches, as the meetest place for the order and government of the un ruly countries of Tynedale and Redesdale : — " The warden of the Meddell Marches to lye at Herbottell in tyme of warres, and to have accustomary fee for his enter- teignment, besides the profotte of the demeanes of Herbottell for keeping of his house, &c. The castell of Herbottell is a most convenyant place for the warden of the Meddell Marches to lye at, for the orderyne of the mesdemende contries of Ten- dale and Reddesdale, which pertene both to that Marche. The want of a man of service to lye there is one of the greatest decayes to the service that maie be upon the said Meddell Marches. If the parsonaige of Rotheberry, being thre myles destant, ware anexed into the saide castell of Herbottell, whiche is presently in the handes of one of Prebendares of Durhesme, with the yearly fee of cc I. (£ 200) by yere, with this husbandry, the quenes majestie shuld spare xii /. (£1200) marks by yere, which is presently given to the wardenes of th'este and Meddell Marches, and this done, hire highness shall both be better servyde, offenders ponyshede, and the confry de- fendydde from spoyll of th' ennyme."* The castle and demesne was afterwards granted to a branch of the family of the Widdringtons (but whether of Cartington or Trewitt is. uncertain), whose daughter and heiress married an ancestor of the late Sir Thomas Gascoigne, of the county of York ; whose family sold it to the father of the late Percival Clennell, Esq.f who be- * Articles of accusation were preferred by the inhabitants of Northumberland, during the time that Wolsey was archbishop of York and a cardinal, against Lord Dacre, warden of the East and Middle Marches between England and Scotland. In answer to the XVth article, " the saide Lorde Dacre saith, that trouth it is he attached certein offendours of Redesdale whome he sent with his syrvauntes from Harbottell towardes Mor peth and in the mydwaye certein of his tenantes of Morpath by his commandement met his said syrvauntes and did Receive the said Offendours, And afture the same companyes were departed Reddesdale men being priveyly gadred, set vpon the said Conveyeours of the prysoners, And ther not oonly resqued the said pri soners, but also slew thre of the said lordes tenantes, and took awaye with theym the gaullour and his baljf of morpeth, and theim conveyed into Scotland where they did Remaigne in prison iij q'rt' of a yere, And when this said grete offence was done, thos that did it fled into Scotland where they were favorably entreated and Recepted wherupon, the said lorde asked deliueraunce of theim of the wardein of the middle merchies of Scotland, or that he wolde see them exiled out of Scotland according to the lawes of the merches, whiche he refused to do, and wolde not do so miche therin, as to cause the two personnes that were takyn, by the said offendours to be restored to their Libertie, and Notwithstanding that he kept a garinson of lxxx' men in Herbottell iij q'rt' of a yere ofhis owne chargies to resiste the said Offendours, yet they with thelp of Scottis, Robbed and spoiled in this Realme contynually so that they did more harme by miche than coulde be done to theim, Bereason whereof and because that no mendes could be had, for such offences as the said offendors comytted, the said lorde of verey force was driven to take appoyntement with the said theves, from tyme to tyme to stop their misreull, which cannot of right be taken to be in favour of theves, for sein* how niohe that mattier touched the said lorde self it is to be supposed that he would gledlye haue had a mendes of them and to haue had theym put downe."— Hodgson's Northumberland, vol. v. p. 38. t Percival Clennell, Esq. barrister at law, was a very singular character. His extensive lands were all under-let, and he was the idol of his tenantry, whose prosperity he seemed to view with peculiar pride and delight. Though possessed of an uncommon share of the milk of human kindness, yet from living single and retired, his manners were unrefined, and his language unpolished. He was remarkable for the wond per „. „ ... I annum. Todhills 7 0 Oj To the School there 20 0 0 Building the School-house 100 0 0 To the Vicars of Wigton 13 0 0 Further Augmentation 250 0 0 To the School there 100 0 0 Building a College of Matrons at Wigton . . 200 0 0 Towards its Endowment 35 0 0 101 10 0 Here is also a funeral monument to the memory of the Rev. John Shotton, many years curate of this parish, with the following inscription : — " Learn from me How vain are the hopes of man — How fluctuating are his joys ; Place then your affections On the great Object of Love, Which can never change, But is the eternal centre of human happiness." 60 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. There is also here a neat tablet to the memory of Colonel Farquhar. The late Cap tain Farquhar, of Alnwick, a relation of his, gave a fire-engine for the use ot the place which is kept in the church-porch. The chancel was neatly painted and ornamented under the direction of the Rev. L. V. Vernon, the late rector. Several elegant funeral monuments have also been lately introduced, three of which deserve notice : one on the south side of the chancel, to the memory of Sir John Gordon, Bart, ot Tark, m the county of Banff; and the other two at the south door, one to Ann, wife of T. Carr, Esq. late of Eshott, and the other to the late T. Storrer, Esq. of Rothbury. The church is about to be embeUished with a handsome organ. The church-yard is spacious, and is covered with remarkably fine and dry soil. In it are many good tomb-stones, the lettering of which appears to be executed in a superior style. The living of Rothbury is a rectory, valued in the kinges books at £58, 6s. 8d. and is in the gift of the bishop of Carlisle. It is one of the richest livings in the diocese of Durham. In the year 1300, it was no more than £60 per annum. Sir Ralph Sadler recommended the " parsonaige of Rothebury, whiche is presently in the hands of one of the prebendaries of Duresme, with the yerely fee of CCe (£200), to be anex-' ede to the castill of Harbottell." In the time of Dr. Sharp, formerly rector, and arch deacon of Northumberland, it was about £350 : it is now said to be more than £1200, including the glebe the rector keeps in his own hand.* The Rev. John Thomlinson was indefatigable in defending the rights, and securing the profits of his rectory ; and it is solely owing to his unwearied exertions that his successors have enjoyed their comforts undisturbed. He was not actuated by cold and selfish motives. When he took possession of his living, he found every thing in a state of dilapidation ; his parishioners still retained much of the ignorance and bar barity of their forefathers ; and as he was determined to reside among them, and dis charge his duties conscientiously, it was necessary, in order to avoid vexatious litigations, to have his rights precisely ascertained. But the state in which he found the affairs of the rectory will best appear by the following extract from a curious MS. in his own hand writing, and for which we are indebted to the kindness of Mr. Ro bert Robertson, a native of Rothbury parish, but now residing in Newcastle. * List ofthe Rectors qf Rothbury from 1. John Dr. Burdon, who died 1310 2. John Dr. Ashburn, . 1352 S. William Dr. Embleton, . 1357 4. John Apelby, . , . 1377 5. Henrius Harbrough, . 1385 6. Alexander Cook, . . 1435 7. John Yelton, . . . 1499 8. John Clark, . . , 1523 9. Thomas Mangus, . . 1526 10. Roger Watson, . . 1550 11. Edward Mitchell, . . 1561 12. George Neville, , 1566 13. Thomas Talentine, . . 1567 14. Charles Kingsby, . 1584 15. John Manby, . . . 1628 1310 to the present Time. 16. Doctor Smith, . . 1635 17. Henry Tr. 1643 18. Dr. Sharthwell, . 1678 19- John Thomlinson, . . 1720 20. Thomas Sharp, , , 1757 21. William Birdmore, . , 1784 22. Edward Eariel Hay Drummond. 23. George Dr. Watson, who, in 1795, exchanged livings with the above Edward Eariel Hay Drummond. 24. Levison Venables Vernon. 25. Charles Vernon, who, in 1822, ex changed livings with his elder brother, the above Levison Vena bles Vernon. ROTHBURY PARISH. 61 *" 1. At my coming to Rothbury, which was January 24, 1679. It was not easy to determine whether the parsonage house and chancell incumbent upon me to repair, or the profitts belonging to the parson were in worse circumstances. " 2. The parsonage-house, besides. its darkness and smokyness, not to be endured, had (for want of a covering to keep it dry) all the wood of it perfectly rotten, the During the reign of queen Elizabeth, the living of Rothbury was converted into a sinecure, and religion was quite neglected. At this time, the celebrated Bernard Gilpin, nephew of Tunstal, bishop of Durham, was rector of Houghton-le-Spring. Hjs own extensive parish contained no less than fourteen villages, among which he laboured incessantly for the religious improvement of his people; yet notwithstanding all his pain ful industry, he thought the sphere of his labours too confined. Every year, therefore, he used regularly to visit the most neglected parishes in the north of England. Frequently he came over to Rothbury, where he stayed two or three' days, enforcing to the inhabitants the danger of leading wicked and careless lives, ex plaining the nature of true religion, and exhibiting the present and future advantages resulting from piety and regularity of life. Once, when Mr. Gilpin was at Rothbury, it happened that a quarrel was on foot. During the two or three first days ofhis preaching, the contending parties observed some decorum, and never appeared at church together. At length, however, they met. One party had been early at church, and, just as Mr. Gilpin had begun his sermon, the other entered. They stood not long silent* Inflamed at the sight of each other, they began to clash their weapons (for they were all armed with javelins and swords), and mutually approach. Awed, however, by the sacredness of the place, the tumult in some degree ceased. Mr. Gilpin proceeded ; when again the combatants began to brandish their weapons, and draw towards each other. As a fray seemed near, Mr. Gilpin stepped frpm the pulpit, went between them, and, addressing the leaders, put an end to the quarrel for that time, but could not effect an entire reconciliation. They promised, however, that till the sermon was over, they would make no more disturbance. He then went again into the pulpit, and spent the rest of the time in endeavouring to make them ashamed of what they had done. His behaviour and discourse affected them so much, that at his further entreaty they promised to forbear all acts of hostility while he continued in the country. And so much respected was he among them, that who ever was in fear of his enemy, or, in the usual phrase, of his deadly foe, used to resort to where Mr. Gilpin was, esteeming his presence the best protection. The following anecdotes are illustrative of the state of reli gion on the Northumbrian borders :— "Mr. Gylpyn did preach at one chyrch in Redsdale, where ther was nayther mynyster, nor bell, nor bouke, bot an old bouke whych was sett forth in king Edward's tyme and a old Salter tome in pecis : and he sent the clarke to gyve warnyng he would preache. And in the meane tyme thare camme a man rydyng to the chyrch style havynge a dead chyld layd afore hym over hys saddyll cruche and cryed of Mr. Gylpyn, not knowyng hym, ' Come Parson and doo the cure ;' and layd down the corse and went his waye — and Mr. Gylpyn did berye the chylde and did servyce and prechid ; and when he spoke of robbynge and slalynge an old man stod up of fourscore yere old and sayd, ' Then the deil I gyve my sail to bot we ar all theves ;' and then he tould them that he was not usyd to prechyng and the old man sayd they had never . . , afore ; and then Mr. Gylpyn desyred hym hold hys peace tyll he had preched and so he dyd. There was a great number of people both gentyllmen and others, to hear him, and comyng fro the chyrch he spyed a Read Hand put of a speare poynte in defyance of deadlye fead. And Mr, Gylpyn dyd ax what the Read hand mente and theye toulde hym that it was defyaunce, betwyx twoo sirnames and Mr. Gylpyn desyred ye gen tyllmen yt was theyre to helpe to agre ye partyes and so Mr. Gylpyn and they " The disinterested pains he thus look among these barbarous people, and the good offices he performed, drew from them the sincerest expressions of gratitude ; and his name, as the Apostle of the North, was highly revered among them, as the following circumstance evinces : — By the carelessness of his servant, his horses were one day stolen (tradition says, by one of the Snowdons). The news was quickly propagated, and every one expressed the highest indignation at the deed. The thief was rejoicing over his prize, when, by the re- VOL, IL— (24) Q 62 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. floors as well as that which belonged to the roof, and to say nothing of the stable, &c. actually lying in their ruins. The chancell itself was but little better. Its great beams and lesser timber being all decayed for want of lead to cover them ; in some places there wanting whole sheets, in others pieces ; and where there did not, there was such a number of faulty places, that it raind in there, not much less than the other. port of the country, he found whose horses he had taken. Terrified at what he had done, he instantly came trembling back, confessed the fact, returned the horses, and declared he believed the devil would have seized him directly, had he carried them off, knowing them to be Mr. Gilpin's. Mr. Gilpin was originally a Roman Catholic, and disputed publicly against Hooper, bishop of Worcester, and Peter Martyr, by whom he was highly esteemed. After a patient and secret investigation, he separated from the church of Rome. He was apprehended by a messenger from queen Mary, in order to be burnt as a heretic at London. On his way thither, it is said, he broke his leg, which put a stop to his journey. --The persons in whose custody he was took occasion to retort upon him an observation he frequently made, " That nothing happened to us but what was intended for our good," and asked him whether he thought his broken leg was so intended ? He answered meekly, " he made no question but it was." And indeed so it proved in the truest sense ; for before he was able to travel, queen Mary died, and he was set at liberty. He refused the mitre, and various honours and preferments, that were offered him. He was kind and generous to aU, but feared the face of no man, and never scrupled to reprove vice, even in the person of the highest. He was tall of stature, slender, and of an aquiline countenance. His dress was plain, his habits frugal, but his charities were unbounded. '¦' Being full of faith unfained, and of good workes, he was at the last put into his grave, as a heap of wheat in due time is swept into the garner." — See Life of B. Gilpin, by Carleton, Bishop of Chichester. Bishop Pilkington, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, describes the priests of this Border province as going " with swords and daggers, and such coarse apparell as they could get, not regarding colour or fashion." However, bishop Barnes, in a letter (1575) addressed to his patron, Lord Burleigh, lauds the people of Northumberland for their civil obedience and excellent conformity, and himself for having driven out " the reconciling priests and massers, whereof there was a store, but now they be all gon into Lancashire & Yorkshire," he proceeds to give a very different character of the inhabitants of Durham : " I assure your good lordship, these people are far more plyable to all good order, than those stubborn, churlish people of the county of Durham, and their neighbours of Richmondshire, who show as the proverb is, " Jack qf Napes Cha rity" in their hearts. The customes, the lives of these people (Northumberland) as their country is are truly salvage ; but truly such hast to amend (though it be for some) as is zelous, and yet none extremity shewed to any, otherwise than by threatening, which has wrought pannicum timorem in their minds, and in the clergy a good readiness to apply their travells to their calling, only that Augie Stabulum, the church of Durham exceedes ; whose stinke is grievous in the nose of God & men, and which to purge far passeth Hercules' la bours. The malicious of this country are marvailously exasperated against me ; and whereas at home they dare, neither by words nor deeds, deal undutifully against me ; yet abroad, &c. they deface me by all slan ders, false reports, and shameless lyes ; though the same were never so inartificial or incredible according to the northern guise, which is never to be ashamed, however they bely & deface him whom they hate, yea though it be before the honourablest." — Surlees' History of Durham. Notwithstanding the bishop's high eulogiums on the Northumbrians, all the Borderers were very indifferent on religious subjects. Hence James VI. was wont to call in the assistance of the Scottish Borderers upon all occasions of dispute with the kirk. These people retained their carelessness about religious matters to a late period, as we learn from a curious passage in the life of Richard Cameron, a fanatical preacher during the time of the persecution. After having been licensed at Haughhead, in Teviotdale, he was, according to his biographer, sent first to preach in Annandale. He said, " How can I go there ? I know what sort of people they are." But Mr. Welch said, " Go your way, Ritchie, and set the fire of hell to their tails." He went • ROTHBURY PARISH. 6S " 3. This was the condition I found the parsonage-hoUse and the chancell in, when I first entered upon them ; which soon appeared to be in worse plight than I appre hended ; for I had scarce been two months resident upon the place, before I espied one of the main beams in the chancell broken and ready to tumble down, and to bring the rest or greatest part of the chancell along with it ; so that I was forct to get that part propt, till the whole was uncovered. The covering of which afterwards I was forct to put in more wood, every where else, as well as new cast the lead, which and supplying the lead that wanted, cost me upwards of an £100. " 4. And as for the profitts of the living there was not the least scrap of paper to help me to know them ; and which was yet worse, they had been so long farmd by a layman, as that perhaps no man living besides himself, sure I am none 1 could hear did thoroly understand them. And 1 was not to expect any information or assistance from him, who was for farming the living, and having his ends of me as he had of my predecessor. " 5. And this made me account it a work of greater difficulty, to retrieve the rights of the hving lost, and in danger to be so, than to repair the ruinous houses and chan cell, and the charge not to appear much less : And but that I had the good fortune to retain the curate that I found there for a year, though one way or other it cost me more than £ 80, upon promise of his utmost assistance, who had considerable relations in the parish, perhaps to this day I might not have done so much right to the living as I did in one year. For, though he was far from being so true or useful to me as I might reasonably have expected, yet by the information I had from him, and made a shift to pick up from others, the very first year I made considerably more of the living than the farmer aforementioned had given, or was willing to give me. " 6. But yet I was far from having found out all that was due, there being several improvements taken up in a part of the parish called Rothbury Forest (which pays a modus of £4, 11*. for the tythe-corn and hay of the ancient lands) that I found not out, so as to look after, till some years afterwards ; when the inhabitants taking up several hundreds of acres of common, alledged for their being exempted from payment of tythes, amongst other things, the improvements afore-mentioned not paying to me or my predecessor, in whose time they were taken up. " 7. And this was in danger of proving a troublesome and expensive business to me ; for these were for combining with the other, and trying the matter ; being en couraged by the standing counsel and auditors of the Countess of Northumberland, whose tenants they were ; all of which concluded, that if the modus for the ancient farms would not screen the improvements, yet, at least, the statute for encouraging husbandry would exempt them for seven years, in which time they might so order the matter as to make the tythe scarce worth the looking after for the time to come. " 8. But, praised be God, this storm was averted happily, by my getting three or four of the persons principally concerned, who happened to be under considerable and, the first day, he preached upon that text — " How shall I put thee among the children," &c. In the ap plication he said, " Put you among the children ! the offspring of thieves and robbers ! we have all heard of Annandale thieves." Some of them had a merciful cast that day, and told afterwards, that it was thefirst field-meeting they ever attended, and that they went out of mere curiosity, to see a minister preach in a tent, and people sit on the ground. L. s. d. 5 16 8 0 16 8 1 13 4 58 0 0 200 0 0 1 5 6 64 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. obligations to me, to take their tythes during their leases, at about a third part of the value ; in which they were followed by the rest, though some few stood it out till I had served chequer writs upon them. And these things if I can so bound and mark out, as that my Rev. successors may know them not to belong to the ground covered by the modus aforesaid, (which several of the inhabitants go about to hinder) it will be of no small use and advantage to them." Mr. Thomlinson proceeds next to give an account of the tythes payable by each township of the parish, to which he adds the manner of reckoning with the parish ioners at Easter. The following, he says, is paid by the rector yearly for his rectory. " First, for tenths Secondly, to the Archdeacon procurations and synodals Thirdly, with the Bp. visits, besides 9s. to the Archdeacon Fourthly, in the First-fruit office it is valued at Fifthly, in the county-book, which is the rule for taxes, it is valued yearly at And so for its ancient rent, or purvey, as called in Cumberland " It is now joined with Felton rectory, in the setting out a militia-horse, and is charged with two- fifths towards it. And of 2s. paid yearly to the Duke of Somerset for Green-Hue, is charged with 4d.M The Free School stands in an airy and pleasant situation near the church. In Market-street there is a remarkably fine spring of excellent water, said to be suffi ciently powerful to turn a water-wheel. Though the Duke of Northumberland be lord of the manor of Rothbury, he pos sesses very little freehold property in the town. Rothbury common is the joint property of the Duke and the freeholders of Rothbury : the former, it seems, claims one-sixteenth share thereof. A little to the east of the town are many small inclo sures of fine productive land, and which, it is said, did belong to the common : but the lord of the manor resigned his right in this part to the freeholders, in heu of. a certain right of depasturage which they had through a part of the Forest. A valua ble common called the Chirnals, the joint property of the freeholders of Rothbury and Snifter, and two or three miles west of Rothbury, has been divided* The dividing and stinting of the common belonging to Rothbury is regulated by the payment of what is called a "¦ borough-rent," formerly apportioned to the respective premises at that time there situated, and which will even now admit of no alteration. Previous to the Union, the inhabitants of Rothbury and Redesdale were rendered peculiarly fierce and active by constant feuds and alarms. Daring and subtile, no vigilance could guard property from their depredations; nor was it safe to travel amongst such a people, who despised law, and spurned at every species of control. Even long after the majesty of the laws had been acknowledged, in these parts, the * The rage for inclosing has perhaps been carried too far in this county, as well as in most other parts. The cultivation of bad land can never be generally beneficial. This consideration may afford some excuse for the law which subjects every tract of common to a special inclosure bill; but which, generally speaking, imposes a grievous tax on agricultural capital and industry. For instance, the bill for inclosing Holy Island' consisting of 1020 acres of common, cost 1267/, ! * ROTHBURY PARISH. 65 barbarous traits of a rude age remained prominent in the manners of the inhabitants. Poaching, drinking, gambling, and fighting, still continued the favourite amusements of the people of Rothbury. Gaming, in fact, was carried to so ruinous an extreme, that there are instances related of the farmers stopping their carts, when loaded with sheaves, until it was determined by a game at cards into whose yard the corn should be led. Like all the other Borderers, they were passionately fond of music, and warmly patronized their pipers and wandering minstrels.* Amongst other very old customs, which were tenaciously retained, was a foot-ball play on Shrove Tuesday. All the males of Rothbury, above eight years old, able to walk the distance, were compelled to attend the tossing up of the ball, at a certain time and place, or be fined one shilling. The married men played against the unmarried ; and the sport, which begun in fun, often ended in anger and desperation, and many were severely bruised and. maimed. Some individuals lately refused the payment of the stipulated fine for non-attendance, and as the majority failed in their attempts to enforce it, this old custom will probably soon fab into disuse. Cock-fighting was also an amusement of which the inhabitants of Rothbury were immoderately fond ; but this ancient sport is likewise becoming very unpopular, and will probably be soon altogether abandoned. In fact, if we except the warm hospitality which still distinguishes all the Northumbri ans, the ancient character of the Borderers can no longer be traced in the inhabitants of this parish, who are certainly in no respect inferior to their neighbours in intelli gence, sobriety, and correctness of manners. Several of the natives of Rothbury have been distinguished for talents and enterprize.f * The ballad of Ecky's Mare, preserved in Ritson's Collection, and in Bell's Rhymes of Northern Bards, was composed by the late ancient and famous northern poet, Bernard Rumney, a musician, who lived and died at Rothbury. He was about a century old at the time of his death. t The celebrated Dr. John Brown was a native of Rothbury, where he was born November 5, 1715. His father, who was descended from the Browns of Colstown, near Haddington, in Scotland, was curate here, but afterwards removed to the vicarage of Wigton in Cumberland. At a grammar-school in this place the sub ject of this memoir received the first part of his education, and was thence removed, May 8, 1732, to St. John's college in Cambridge. He remained here, till in 1735 he took the degree of B. A. then returned to Wigton, and soon after went into orders. His first settlement was in Carlisle, being chosen a minor canon and lecturer in the cathedral there. This situation he afterwards resigned, on being reproved for omitting - the Athanasian creed, which it is said was merely accidental. His pride, however, was hurt, and next Sun day he read the creed, out of course, and immediately after resigned. In 1739, he took a M. A. degree at Cambridge. In the rebellion of 1745, he acted as a volunteer at the siege of Carlisle, and behaved himself with great intrepidity ; and after the defeat ofthe rebels, when some of them were tried at Carlisle in 1746, he preached two excellent sermons in the cathedral, " on the mutual connection between religious truth and civil freedom ; and between superstition, tyranny, irreligion, and licentiousness." These are to be found in the volume of his sermons. Thus distinguished, he fell under the notice of Dr. Osbaldeston, who, when raised to the see of Carlisle, made him one of his chaplains : he had before obtained for him, from the chapter of Carlisle, the living of Moreland in Westmoreland, It was probably about this time that he wrote his poem entitled "Honour," to shew, that true honour can only be founded in virtue: it was inscribed to Lord Lons dale. His next poetical production, though not immediately published, was his " Essay on Satire," in three parts, afterwards addressed to Dr. Warburton, who introduced him to Mr, Allen, of Prior Park, near Bath. While at Mr. Allen's, he preached at Bath, April 22, 1750, « sermon for promoting the subscription towards VOL, II, R 6$ COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. The resident population of this pleasant little town amounts to 891, of whom 413 are males and 478 females ; and 132 individuals are employed in trade and manufac tures. On the south side of Rothbury, the river Coquet is crossed by a handsome stone bridge of four arches. the general hospital in that city. The year after, appeared the " Essay on Satire," prefixed to the second volume of Pope's Works by Warburton; with which it still continues to be printed, a3 well as in Dodsley's collection. Brown now began to make no small figure as a writer, and, in 1751, published his "Essays on Shaftesbury's Characteristics," 8vo. a work written with elegance and spirit, and so applauded as to be printed a fifth time in 1764. This was suggested to him by Warburton, and to Warburton by Pope, who told War burton that, to his knowledge, the Characteristics had done more harm to revealed religion in England than all the works of infidelity put together. He is imagined to have had a principal hand in another book, pub lished also the same year, and called " An Essay on Musical Expression ;" though the avowed author was Mr. Charles Avisort. In 1754, he printed a sermon, "On the Use and Abuse of Externals in Rehgion:". preached before the bishop of Carlisle, at the consecration of St. James's church in Whitehaven, and soon after he was promoted to Great Horkesley in Essex; a living conferred upon him by the late Earl of Hard-' wicke. His next appearance was as a dramatic writer. In 1755, his tragedy, " Barbarossa," was produced upon the stage, and afterwards his " Athelstan" in 1 756. These tragedies were acted with considerable suc cess, under the management of Garrick ; and the former long remained what is called a stock-piece, notwith standing many critical objections offered to it in the publications of the times. Our author had taken his doctor of divinity's degree in 1755. In 1757, came out his famous work, "An Estimate of the Manners and Principles of the Times," 8vo. ; of which seven editions were printed in little more than a year, and it was perhaps as extravagantly applauded, and as extravagantly censured, as any book that was ever written. This work was published when the national spirit was sunk in despondency, and universal dissatisfaction prevailed. Such a warm and severe invective against the English character, which Dr. Brown represented as sunk in effeminacy, frivolity, and selfishness, was therefore wonderfully popular. Amongst the many answers to this gloomy satire, the best was, as Voltaire observes, that the English from that period began to beat their enemies in every part of the globe. In 1758, our author published a second volume of the Estimate, &c. and, afterwards, " An explanatory Defence of it," &c. Between the first and second volume of the Estimate, he republished Dr. Walker's " Diary of the Siege of Londonderry ;" with a preface, pointing out the useful purposes to which the perusal of it might be applied. He was, about this time, presented by the bishop of Carlisle, Dr. Osbaldeston, to the vicarage of St. Nicholas in Newcastle upon Tyne, resigning Great Horkesley in Essex ; and was made one of the chaplains in ordinary to his late ma jesty. These were all the preferments he ever received; and, as this was supposed to be no small mortifica tion to a man of Dr. Brown's high spirit, so it was probably this high spirit which was the cause of it ; for such was his temper, that he never could preserve his friends long, and he had before this time quarrelled with Warburton and Lord Hardwicke. In 1760, he published an additional dialogue ofthe dead, between " Pericles and Aristides," being a sequel to a dialogue of Lord Lyttleton's between " Pericles and Cosmo." His next publication was, " The Cure of Saul," a sacred ode ; which was followed the same year by a " Dis sertation on the Rise, Union, and Power, the Progressions, Separations, and Corruptions of Poetry and Mu sic," 4to. This is a pleasing performance, displays great ingenuity, and, though not without mistakes, very instructive as well as amusing. " Observations" were printed upon it by an anonymous writer and Dr. Brown defended himself in " Remarks." He published in 8vo. 1764, the " History of the Rise and Progress of Poetry through its several Species ;" being the substance of the above work concerning poetry only, for the benefit of classical readers not knowing in music. The same year, he printed a volume of " Sermons " most of which had been printed separately; and in 1765, "Thoughts on Civil Liberty, Licentiousness and Faction ;" a piece drawn up with great parade, and assuming a scientific form, with an intention to censure the opposers of administration at that time ; also, a sermon on the " Female Character and Education," preached ROTHBURY PARISH. 67 There is a place near Rothbury, and adjoining the west road, called the Beggars' Ridge. It is said to have acquired that appellation thus : — A gentleman, during the 17th century, and in a time of great scarcity, permitted the poor of Rothbury to pluck the peas which grew on the ridge, an offer which was gladly accepted ; but, wonderful to relate, at the time of reaping, it was found to bear a most abundant crop ! This story is still credited by the true believers in Rothbury parish. About a mile below Rothbury there is a corn-mill, where the Coquet had formerly a great fall ; but it was lowered to facibtate the ascent of the salmon up the stream. A few yards lower down, at a place called the Thrum, the river, for about 60 yards, is confined between two freestone rocks : it glides with silence and rapidity through this contracted passage, and is above two fathoms deep even in dry summers. For merly the distance between the rocks, where narrowest, measured only one yard, and was easily stepped over ; but the passage has been considerably widened at the top a the 16th of May, 1765, before the guardians ofthe asylum for deserted female orphans. His last publication, in 1766, was a "Letter to the Rev. Dr. Lowth," occasioned by his late letter to the right rev. author ofthe " Divine Legation of Moses." Dr. Lowth had pointed at Dr. Brown, as one of the extravagant flatterers and creatures of Warburton ; and Dr. Brown defended himself against the imputation, as an attack upon his moral character. To do him justice, he had a spirit too strong and independent, to bend to that literary subjection which the author of the Divine Legation expected from his followers. He insisted upon the pre rogative of his own opinion, to assent and dissent, whenever he saw cause, in the most unreserved manner ; and this was to Dr. Brown, as it was to many others, the cause of misunderstanding with Warburton. Be sides the works mentioned, he published a poem on "Liberty," and some anonymous pamphlets. At the end of his later writings, he advertised an intention of publishing " Principles of Christian Legation," but was prevented by death. He ordered, however, by his will, that the work should be published after his decease ; but it was left too imperfect for that purpose. The last memorable circumstance of his life was his intended expedition to Russia. While Dr. Dumaresque resided in Russia, 1765, whither, having been chaplain to our factory at St. Petersburg from 1747 to 1762, he had been invited the year before by the empress, to assist in, the regulation of several schools she was about to establish ; a correspondent in England suggested the idea to him of communicating the affair to Dr. Brown, as a proper person to consult with, because he had pub lished some sermons upon education. This brought on a correspondence between Dr. Dumaresque and Dr. Brown, the result of which, being communicated to the prime minister at St. Petersburg, was followed by an invitation from the empress to Dr. Brown also. Dr. Brown, acquainting the Russian court with his design of complying with the empress's invitation, received an answer from the minister, signifying how pleased her imperial majesty was with his intention, and informing him, that she had ordered to be remitted to him, by her minister in London, 1000Z. in order to defray the expenses ofhis journey. In consequence of these pro ceedings, while he was ardently preparing for his journey, and almost on the point of setting out for St. Pe tersburg, the gout and rheumatism, to which he was subject, returned upon him with violence, and put a stop to the affair, to his no small mortification. This disappointment, concurring with his ill state of health, was followed by a dejection of spirits, which terminated in his putting an end to his life, at his lodgings in Pall-mall, Sept. 23, 1766, in his 51st year. He cut the jugular vein with a razor, and died immediately.' He had, it seems, a constitutional tendency to insanity, and from his early life had been subject at times to disorders in the brain, at least to melancholy in its excess. Dr. Brown was a man of uncommon ingenuity . and, besides being an elegant prose writer, he was a poet, a musician, and a painter. It must be admitted that he was opinionated, irritable, and suspicious ; but these defects, which arose from a too sanguine tem perament of constitution, were amply compensated by many excellencies and virtues. — Biog. Brit. Warbur ton 's Letters. Biog. Diet. vol. vii. Gent. Mag. vol. Ixi. and lxii. 68 COQUETDALE WARD— W D. few years ago, in consequence, as we are told, of a boy having been drowned in at tempting to jump across. The mountain torrents have here pierced the rocks into numerous hoies, some of them resembling little furnaces, or caldrons. Old Rothbury is situated north-west from Rothbury, on the summit of a lofty, barren hill. It consists of a circular entrenchment, with a double fosse and rampier ; and has, beyond dispute, been a fort of the ancient Britons. It might also have been used, in later times, as an asylum in times of public danger, where the inhabitants retired with their goods during the time that the Scotch Borderers were plundering in the neighbourhood. This place was likewise well adapted for a watch-hill, as it commands a very extensive prospect. Near to this old fortification is a large cave in the side of the hill, the entrance to which is through a huge crag-stone. Such hiding holes have been used by the most ancient people in every country and in every age, and have been discovered in almost every part of the island. In some instances, our ancestors have constructed their subterraneous safeguards of rough stones, without cement of any kind ; in other situations, they have excavated the solid rock ; but more commonly, natural caves seem to have been enlarged, and properly barricadoed for the purpose. In later times these caves have evidently been appropriated as reli gious retreats. Whitton is a small, but pleasant village, distant about half a mile south from Rothbury. Whitton Tower stands at a short distance west from the village, and is the agreeable residence of the rector. Like many other parsonage-houses in this county, it was formerly a very strong castlet, and formed part of a range of towers, which extended from Hepple, in this parish, to Warkworth. They are now all in ruins except this one, which has been always inhabited. The Umfranville arms are still preserved on the west front. The walls of the tower, at the foundation, are eleven feet thick : in the kitchen, nine ; in the bed-chambers over, six. There is a famous vaulted cellar attached to it, where, during the civil commotions of the county, the cattle were undoubtedly secured. In the cellar is a deep well. This tower is an elegant and commodious building : it was successively repaired by the Rev. John Thomlinson, Dr. Thomas Sharp,* and the Rev. William Birdmore, canon-residentiary of York ; but much of its splendid appearance is owing to the spirited improvements effected by the Rev. Dr. Drummond, who, in the years 1784 and 1785, expended between two and three thousand pounds in enlarging the building. It was kept in a good state of repair by the late incumbent, Dr. Watson ;f and the Hon. and Rev. * Dr. Thomas Sharp, son of archbishop Sharp of York, in July, 1720, was collated to the rectory of Roth bury, and two years afterwards he obtained the archdeaconry of Northumberland. He left three sons, who were chiefly brought up at Rothbury, via. Dr. John Sharp, who, after various promotions, became also arch deacon of Northumberland, and a prebendary at Durham, and died in 1792. This amiable man had the merit of arranging and establishing Lord Crewe's noble charity at Bambrough. The other sons were, Wil liam, many years an eminent surgeon in London, who died in 1810, aged 81 ; and Granville, the celebrated champion of liberty in Britain, and the formidable enemy of slavery abroad. He died July 6, 1813 and, like Cato, though advanced to the age of 79, he pursued his studies with all the ardour of youth. + Dr. George Watson died at Whitton Tower, March 29, 1813, aged 64 years. He was in the commission of the peace, but was suspended from his clerical functions for his love of illicit amours. An angry, indecent, ROTHBURY PARISH. 69 L. V. Vernon, son of the archbishop of York, the late rector, made many improve ments, which cost upwards of three thousand pounds. This place is adorned with fine thriving plantations, and a beautiful fish-pond. The glebe-lands are extensive and remarkably productive. South from Whitton Tower stands a circular observatory, which commands a most beautiful and extensive prospect. It was built by Dr. Sharp in a severe winter, in order to give employment to the industrious poor in the neighbourhood, from which circumstance it acquired the name of the Doctor's Folly. Thropton stands about two miles west from Rothbury, on the south-west dedi- vity of a considerable eminence, and at the north-east confluence of the Coquet and Wreigh. Gentlemen fond of rural recreations could find few situations more eligible than this. The stone bridge over the Wreigh fell some years ago. Before it was erected, there was a very old bridge, which foot-passengers or horses could only pass. It was said to have been erected at the expence of a lady, for the convenience of the township, and that people might not be prevented from attending the church when the waters were high. The foundation of the present bridge was laid May. 24, 1810. It was built by subscription. Thropton is partly inhabited by a few farmers and their labourers, and partly by freeholders. Here is a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Presbyterian meeting-house, both well attended. At the west end of the village there is still a stone cross standing at the junction of three roads, and another in a similar situation at the east end.* Cartington stands about two miles north-west from Rothbury, but above three miles by the road, and nearly one mile and a half north of Thropton, This place is sheltered on the east by a high ridge, called Cartington Hill. Cartington Castle, an ancient and venerable pile, which was strongly built in the castellated form, is now rapidly going to decay ; a small part only continuing to be inhabited. Yet its massy walls and extensive ruins are sufficient proofs of its having been a place of considerable strength and consequence. Underneath it are large vaults, no doubt used by its owners, in former days, to secure their cattle against the depredations of the moss troopers, and other freebooters who infested the country. There is neither date nor armorial bearings upon this building, to point out when or by whom it was erected. The late occupier, Mr. Robert Robson, dug out of the ruins a stone, with the date 1030 ; a mutilated figure of the Blessed Trinity ; a figure of St. Anthony ; the top poetical dispute, between the rector and a school-master, is preserved in Rothbury. Here it is proper to ac knowledge that Dr. Watson, during the publication of the first edition of this work, furnished several papers illustrative of the history of the parish. * Mr. James Robson, stone-mason, of Thropton, was leader ofthe band in the Pretender's army in 1715. He wrote a satire on women, and several other poetical pieces, while confined prisoner at Preston in Lanca shire. It is said that he sung the satire at an iron-barred window, looking into a garden, where a lady and her maid were walking. When the song was finished, the former observed, " That young man seems very severe upon our sex, but perhaps he is singing more from oppression than pleasure ; go give him that half- crown ;" which the girl handed through the grating at a period when the captive poet was on the point of starving. VOL, II. S 70 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. of a beautiful Gothic window, &c. ; with what appears to have been a font for holy water. These circumstances are perhaps sufficient to prove, that near the front, or south of the castle, has formerly stood a church or chapel, now totally buried in obli-i yion. The castle was formerly possessed by an ancient family of its own name, which' is now extinct. John de Cartington was knight of the shire in 1428, 1446, and 1472. Cartington afterwards became the seat of Sir Francis Ratcliffe ; in 1502, of his son, Sir Edward Ratcliffe, knt. who was sheriff of Northumberland in 1507 ; and of Cuth bert Ratcliffe, who was also sheriff of the said county in 1526 ; from which family was descended, the late unfortunate James Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater. This place afterwards came into the possession of Roger Widdrington ; then of his son, Sir Edward Widdrington, who was created a baronet of Scotland, and afterwards of England, 16 Charles 1. 1642. He raised a troop of horse for Charles I. but had his estate sequestered by parliament in 1652. His daughter and co-heiress, Lady Mary, relict of Sir Edward Charlton, of Hesleyside, baronet, founded near the castle an alms house for four poor widows of the Roman Cathobc religion. From the secluded manner of their bfe, they are usually called Ntms by the country people. After this, Cartington was possessed by a Talbot, who signabzed himself, but was killed at the siege of Buda. His son, John, being concerned in the rebellion in 1715, fled from Chester. Mr. Giles Alcock, of Newcastle, next purchased the estate, which is now the property of J. C. Beck, co. of Cumberland, and Percival Fenwick, Esq. of Newcastle.* Snitter stands upon a conical mount, three miles north-west from Rothbury, be tween the Wreigh and Lorbottle Burn. It is occupied by freeholders, and their tenants. Here is a very handsome house, which was begun by the late WiUiam Pringle, Esq. and finished by his brother, Edward, whose son, Wibiam Pringle, Esq. is the present possessor. The lands in the neighbourhood are of the most excellent quality ; and the hedge-rows are uncommonly high and vigorous. Trewitts, High and Low. — On the west side of the river Wreigh, and at the bottom of a declining steep, a mile north-west from Snifter, lies Low Trewitt. It is an old vfilage, and is the property of Messrs. Henry and John Boag. High Trewitt stands on an eminence, distant above a mile north by east from Low Trewitt. Trewitt House, the residence of John Smart, Esq. is situate on the extre mity of the parish, near the road from Rothbury to Netherton, and is distant five miles north-west from the former place. It is an elegant and commodious erection ¦ and the adjoining lands, which are of an excellent quality, have been greatly improved by the present proprietor.! The Trewitts were in possession of Sir Ephraim Widdrington, in the time of king James I. He was descended from the family of Cartington. Hic-h Trewitt in the time of king Charles I. belonged to the Claverings of Callaly, and was forfeited by * Mr. M'Donald, of New Lambton, co. of Durham, has kindly communicated several particulars relative to this place. t Mr. Smart, whose skill and ardour in antiquarian pursuits are well known, has evinced such a warm in terest in advancing the purposes of this work, as merits the best acknowledgments ofthe Publishers. ROTHBURY PARISH. 71 their attachment to the house of Stuart: it was sold during the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell ; and is now the property of Mr. Atkinson and Mr. Smart. One moiety of Low Trewitt belonged to Brinkburn priory. Warton. — This village lies between the Wreigh and the Coquet, and is distant three miles west by north from Rothbury. It is famed in the legendary tales of the neighbouring inhabitants, as being the residence of a choice race of warriors, who were the dread of the Scottish Borderers, Even so late as the middle of the last century, four brothers lived here, of the name of Potts, who usually kept the peace at all pubbc sports, when there was ill blood between the people of Coquet and Redesdale. The land in the neighbourhood is commonly called " the core of Coquet," from the super-excellence of its soil. It is the property of John Robson and Robert Spearman, Esqrs. Flotterton lies about half a mile south-west from Warton. It was the manor Of Robert de UmfranviUe, Earl of Angus, 33 king Edward I. ; and is now the pro perty of Christopher Wealands, Esq. It was formerly a -large place, and was occu pied by a number of little farmers ; but now it is farmed by one. The soil is of various qualities, part of it only indifferent ; but the place has the advantage of a pit of rich marie, and several excellent springs of water. Caistron. — This pleasant village stands upon the brink of the Coquet, one mile south by west from Flotterton. It was formerly the property of three gentlemen, aU of the name of Hab, to distinguish whom they were denominated Duke, Lord, and Lawyer. A' descendant of the first bequeathed a certain sum to be paid annually out of his estate towards the support of a schoolmaster in the viUage. Caistron is now the property of the heirs of the late General Ord, of Weetwood ; Mr. Ramsay ; and a tenement purchased by Queen Anne's Bounty, to augment the living of the chapeby of Birtley on the Tyne. Wreighill is distant one mile west by south from Flotterton, and five miles west from Rothbury. It is situated on the south-west side of a mountain, whose verdant summit overtops all others in this extensive parish, except Simonside. Being placed on the extremity of the parish, near the western entrance to the fertile valley of the Coquet, it seems to have suffered more severe and repeated calamities from hostile Borderers than any other village in the vicinity. The spirited opposition of the in habitants of Wreighill to the Scottish freebooters excited their resentment, and drew forth threats of the most cruel revenge. Accordingly, on Wednesday the 25th of May, 1412, a strong band appeared before the place. A fierce contest ensued, when, overpowered by superior numbers, the people of WreighiU were defeated, and few escaped the keen pursuit of the enemy. The village also was totally destroyed: hence arose the sorrowful saying, which has even descended to the present generation, " The woeful Wednesday ofthe Wreckhill."* * Wreighill was formerly called Wreck-hill, on account of the dreadful contests of which it was the scene. Such, at least, is the etymon that tradition has assigned to the name of this place. 72 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. In 1665, this village was visited by a calamity still more dreadful ; the whole po pulation being nearly swept away by the plague. A Miss Handyside received a small package from a young gentleman in London, which was no sooner opened than (like Pandora's box) the pestilence sprung out, and spread itself over the whole place, where not one escaped the contagion, and very few survived its effects. The first victim was the young lady to whom the present was sent. The few that survived interred the dead in such places as it was supposed neither plough nor spade would turn up : however, since the planting of potatoes on steep banks became so common, great quantities of human bones have been dug up, very entire, but exceedingly brittle. These are supposed to have been the remains of such as died of the plague. Human bones have also been found in other parts of this lofty hill, which seem to belong to a people of a more early age. A shepherd perceived a large flat stone upon the crown of a fine limestone mount, which he succeeded with some difficulty in overturning, and on digging up the mould beneath, discovered the bones of a remark ably large human skeleton, which on exposure to the air crumbled into dust. The sepulchre was an oblong square, 4 feet long by 2^ feet broad, walled on all sides with freestone ; it was 3 feet in depth, the rock forming the bottom. Those acquainted with the history and antiquities of their native country, will easily perceive to what, people this sepulchral tumulus belonged. There is a tradition among the inhabitants, that a large signal-post stood once on the top of Wreighill ; and even at the present time, as we are informed, the frag ments of the post form the joists of a bullock-byre at this place, and the footstep-, holds are very entire.* * Wreighill is distinguished for being the birth-place of that prodigy of genius, Mr. George Coughran, who, while a stripling, excelled all his competitors in the mathematical sciences, and soared beyond the reach ofthe hoary-headed philosopher. This celebrated mathematician was born on the 24th day of August, 1752, and was the youngest of three sons of Mr. John Coughran, a farmer, whose forefathers, for many generations, had followed the same occupation at Wreighill. His mother was the daughter of Mr. William Snowdon, a farmer of Hepple, who belonged to the same family as the renowned swordsman, Robert Snowdon. The attachment of this wonderful youth to books appeared at a very early age, when he was consigned to the care of an excellent young man, who acted in the capacity of a private preceptor to the family. In this situation our young student seemed perfectly happy ; his attention was unremitted, and his progress surprising. At length the teacher candidly informed his father that he could instruct his son no farther, and that if he was inclined lo permit the boy to follow the bent of his genius, he must look out for a more able master ; but his father considered him as sufficiently qualified for the plough, which he had determined as the most proper profession for his sons. Young Coughran was accordingly sent to the fields, where he was equally distin guished for skill and industry. Still his aspiring genius was not repressed ; and every moment of relaxation was devoted to his favourite studies. At night also his. lamp frequently burnt out while conversing with the immortal Euclid, Newton, Simpson, Emerson, M'Laurin, and others, with whose grand principles he became intimately acquainted. His perseverance was, perhaps, unequalled ; but his progress supported his spirits, and he always returned to the spade or the plough with the greatest chearfulness. The first production which he ventured to send to the press was an answer to a mathematical question which had appeared in the Newcastle Courant, then conducted by Mr. Saint, which was given in preference to many others. This flat tering distinction induced him to propose a problem of his own in the same newspaper ; but, with the mo desty inseparable from true genius, he gave it to his friend, Mr. William Wilkin, in whose name, and through whose medium, it was proposed. Continuing his correspondence, the public curiosity was greatly excited* ROTHBURY PARISH. 73 Wreigh-hill is a fine dry soil : the south side, which is about half a mile in extent, is incumbent upon limestone ; and the north side upon freestone. It is the property of Robert de Lisle, Esq. of Acton House, excepting a small part which belongs to Miss De Echant. Hepple bes on the north side of the Coquet, about five miles west from Rothbury, and near the boundary of the parish. About the middle of the last century, this vil lage consisted of fifteen detached farmsteads, besides several strong, ancient houses, and every means was used to discover the ingenious stranger. Mr. Coughron could not long be concealed, and soon after he obtained the silver medal given by the proprietor of the British Oracle. The Rev. Dr. Maskelyne, then astronomer-royal at the observatory of Greenwich, had published a treatise on navigation, intituled, " Nautical Ephemeris," which was severely criticised by Captain Heath, author of the British Palladium. A controversy ensued between these two very able mathematicians, which terminated in an amicable agreement to refer the subject in dispute to the decision of Mr. Coughron. He was a stranger to both ; but, conscious of his own abilities, he accepted the high office of umpire, and decided in favour of Captain Heath. On Mr. Coughron being told by a friend, that by his imprudent decision he forfeited all hopes of royal favour, he answered, with becoming dignity, " Truth is my study, and demonstration my de light." His cautious friend was, however, mistaken, as soon afterwards a gentleman from the royal observa tory came to Newcastle (to which place Mr. Coughron had removed), and enquired for the great mathemati cian. On being introduced to Mr. C. he said, " Sir, be pleased to excuse my intrusion, the name has misled me— you cannot be the gentleman I want." " Sir," answered Mr. C. " my assistance is at your service." " I want Coughron, the mathematician." " I sometimes amuse myself with that science, sir," said the other. The gentleman stood astonished for a moment, when he exclaimed — " God bless my soul — a Child !" At this time, the " Ladies' Diary" was republished by Mr. Hutton, who has obtained so many honours for his transcendant talents ; but Mr. Coughron was the real compiler. It seems, however, that the friendship of these two geniuses was but of short continuance. The real cause of the breach will best appear from the following remark, addressed to Mr. Hutton (the late Dr. Hutton) by Mr. Hedley, then a mathematician in Newcastle : — " As, Sir, you never could brook an equal, it is no wonder to find you shudder at the sight of a superior." By his other contemporaries Mr. Coughron was treated with the utmost delicacy and respect, nor did they refuse to do justice to his surprising attainments. The editor of the " British Palladium," in an address to his correspondents, says, " All those who wish to wear laurels should win them like Mr. George Coughron, to whom nothing appears too difficult for his penetration to accomplish." The Rev. Charles Wild- bore, who excelled in the abstruse sciences, in a letter addressed to Mr. Saint, of Newcastle, and dated De cember 21, 1773, expresses himself thus : — " I have long contended with Mr. Coughron for the superiority in this sublime science ; but the sapling sage soars so aloof with his skilful scholiums, &c. that I am now under the necessity of resigning to him the bays." But before this letter was received, the unparalleled Coughron was a cold corpse ! On the first day of January, 1 774, he sickened of the small-pox, and on the 9th day he died, in the 21st year ofhis age. The exit of this fine genius was long and severely lamented by the lovers of science, who had begun to consider him as the brightest ornament of the age, and the just pride of our country. At the time of his death he resided in the Broad-chare, Newcastle, He left his valuable papers to Mr. Brown, a clever self-taught mathematician, and the father of Mr, George Brown, at the present time a teacher of Navigation, &c. iq Newcastle. Previous to his death, he was engaged, on very liberal terms, by Dr. Maskelyne, who highly esteemed and respected him, to be his calculator. He had obtained no less than ten prizes for answering questions in Fluxions alone. He challenged all the mathematicians of his time to an swer the prize-question in the Gentleman's Diary for 1772, which was not accepted, and the solution was given by himself; to which he added, " Many other properties of this curious problem might be deduced from the foregoing investigation, but I am afraid of exceeding the limits of the Diary." This fact alone VOL. II. T 74 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. and a long row of cottages then crumbling into decay. Soon after, the number of farmers was reduced to three; and in 1821, both Hepple and Hepple Demesne contained but 27 inhabited houses* evinces his superiority in the mathematical science. Mr. John Richards, collector ofthe customs at Darling. ton, published a poetic tribute to his memory in the Town and Country Magazine, from which the following stanzas are taken : — " Ye lovers of science, lament, A connoisseur crowned complete, Since Coughron no more can impart And worthy the Seraphims' song. What deep in dark nature lies pent, In mines scarce pervaded by art. Each artist his aid did implore, Pronouncing him prince of the train ; By bright Coquet's brink he was bred, None could to such excellence soar, Where first he did Nature define, As witness his Curve* on the Plane. But hence by Minerva was led, To traffic his stores on the Tyne. When Newton was equal in age, In knowledge, perhaps, less profound ; His genius and judgment were great, But practice made perfect that sage, His reasoning faculties strong ; And render'd his talents renown'd." After his death, the people north of the Tweed, in their public prints, claimed the honour to Scotland of having given him birth ; and the mistake, though noticed, continued to be repeated in magazines and other periodical works. John Coughron, the eldest brother of the youthful mathematician, was distinguished as a skilful grazier and an enlightened cultivator. He farmed Longframlington Hall-hill for upwards of twenty years, previous to which he occupied Hebron Hill, which he quitted in 1784, as appears by some complimentary verses com posed on the occasion by James Wilson, the Hexham poet, who then resided at Cawsey Park. During his latter years, Mr. Coughron kept a public house in North Shields; but removed, about the year 1814, to Wales, where he died, leaving a widow and several fine daughters. He was highly esteemed for his know ledge and honesty, and was often engaged in valuing land, and in arbitrating between quarrelsome neigh bours. Being of a lively, cheerful disposition, and possessing an inexhaustible fund of anecdote, his conversation was always interesting and amusing. From his communications the editor obtained much va luable information respecting many parts of the county. * A little to the south-west of Hepple were some old houses, formerly occupied by colliers employed in an adjoining pit ; but on the working of the colliery being abandoned, the workmen removed, and their cottages were immediately occupied by a party oifaws. " About the year 1792, or 1793," says Mr. R. Robertson, " the late Walter Trevelyan, Esq. who distinguished himself much in this business, accompanied by several other county magistrates, and a large posse of constables, proceeded to the spot, where they set fire to the houses, and burnt them to the ground, amidst the plaudits of an immense concourse of spectators." He also adds, that the Sunday morning preceding this circumstance, he counted 17 stout young fellows, stript and jumping on the green before the houses, some of whom, he believes, were found there by the magistrates. In North umberland, the Gypsies and other wandering vagabonds are called Faws. The editor once met with a note written in the margin of a book, which stated that they obtained this appellation from a family of the name ' of Fall, which belonged to Rothbury, and were famous in their profession. The writer imagined that the two l's were dropt in this word, as in Hall, which is called Haw in this county. It is certain that Johnnie Faw, who styled himself Lord and Earl of Little Egypt, entered Scotland at the head of a considerable gang of Gypsies, with whom king James IV. found it necessary to enter into a treaty. In more recent times, old * Alluding to the prize-question mentioned above. ROTHBURY PARISH. 75 Hepple was held in thenage by the annual payment of 50*. by the ancestors of William Bardolf, in whose time king John changed that service into one knight's fee. In Henry III.'s time, it belonged to " Joo Taylleboys ;" and it continued in the Tail- bois family down to the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. when it came into the possession of the Ogles. Sir Robert Ogle, baron of Bothal, settled this manor, and some other parts of his estate, after this manner : — Being possessed of the estate descended to him from his ancestors, he within two days infeoffed Wilham Thimbleby, clerk, and some others in them, to himself during his life ; and, after his decease, this manor and town to remain to his son, Sir Robert Ogle the younger, knight, and to the heirs male of his body, and, for want of such issue, to his own right heirs. After his decease, his son, Sir Robert, inherited his estate ; and after his death, Joan, his relict, had a moiety of this manor assigned her for her dowry, with some other estates. His son Robert, upon the death of Joan his mother, being pos sessed of this whole manor, obtained of king Henry VI. a charter of free- warren for all his demesne lands here. He was afterwards, viz. 16 Henry VI. advanced to the dignity and degree of a baron of this realm, and died seized of this manor, with its members, Ogle and Shilvington, 9 Edward IV. leaving them to his posterity. It was held by Cuthbert Lord Ogle, 10 queen Elizabeth. It was lately in the possession of the Duke of Portland, and now belongs to Sir John Buchanan Riddle. About half a century ago, the exterior walls of a strong and stately tower were stiU standing, tolerably entire, and which had probably been the manor-house of the pro prietors of Hepple ; as it is said the court-leet of Hepple lordship was held here in former times, until the castle, being ruined by the Scots, was totally abandoned by the lord, who removed his court to Great Tosson, where the tenants of Hepple and the demesne annually convene to this day. In erecting a few farmsteads some time ago, an attempt was made to demolish the remaining fragments of this strong tower. But the scheme, after repeated trials, was relinquished by the workmen, who found it easier to cut stones from the hardest quarry than to separate these from the cement. This castle was probably the first of the chain of forts which extended from thence to Warkworth, and which was intended to form a barrier against the incessant and de structive incursions of the warlike Borderers. Upon a fine summit, called the Kirk-hill, about half a mile west of Hepple, stood a chapel, the remains of which were removed about the year 1760, and applied to the purpose of building a farmstead, which is erected near the sacred spot. Until this time the chapel was occasionally used as a place of sepulture by five of the adjoining villages, particularly for strangers and unchristened children. This chapel is said to have been destroyed by the moss-troopers. When its remains were erased in the year before mentioned, the font and the pedestal were in good preservation; and many mutilated monuments were found both within and without the walls of the holy building. Will Faw, or Faa, was king or leader of a gang of Border Gypsies. His descendants (says a writer in the Scots Mag. 1816) now take the name oi Fall, from the Messrs. Falls of Dundee, who, they pride themselves in saying, are of the same stock and lineage. It is not improbable, but that in former years, the Gypsey, Fall, or Faw gang, were in the habit of rendezvousing at Rothbury, it being well adapted for the head quar ters of this strolling tribe. 76 COQUETDALE WARD.— W. D. " In the chancel," writes a correspondent, "the fragments of a tombstone, with its supporters, were discovered, and, what is curious, was standing in a north and south direction. This monument was much defaced (apparently more owing to acts of wantonness than to the slow corroding teeth of time), and it was with extreme diffi culty that the following parts of the inscription were decyphered :— '¦ Here lies . . Countess of , . . who died .... her age. God grant . . patience . . endure, . . . . . . free from offence ; What neither skill nor care can cure, go hence. I lov'd my lord, obey'd my king, And kept my conscience clear, Which death disarmeth of his sting, And Christians all endear. My puissant posterity Still the forlorn'd befriend ; Peace, pleasure, and prosperity, My tenantry attend. . . . • . . . . thinks fit, . . not . . tear abound, When you my mortal part commit To consecrated ground. There, lay my head to Long- Acres,* Where shearers sweetly sing;. And feet towards the Key-heugh+ scares, Which fox-hounds cause to ring. Farewel ! survivors in the gross I When you behold my bust, Lament your late liege lady's loss, Then blending with the dust.* " In my early years I copied the above inscription from the manuscript of an old gentleman, and which was probably the only copy that had been preserved. I wish that the old spelhng had been exactly given, as it might have assisted in fixing the era when the monument was erected. During the seven years that I was at school upon the spot, I heard many traditional tales related of this noble lady. An old dirge states her to have been the very mirror of meekness ; affable to every one, and con sequently idobzed by all : she is also represented to have been a heroine on horseback, unrivalled in the chase, and warmly devoted to athletic exercises ; but above all, she is praised for rebeving the oppressed. Previous to her death, it is added, she com posed her own epitaph, and gave orders for the attitude in which she was interred. But the words of this doleful ditty are, I fear, for ever lost." About 100 paces west of the scite of this chapel are the traces of several buildings, where Old Hepple formerly stood. It is said to have been destroyed during the Border wars4 * An extensive field so called, distant about 200 paces due north, + A famous fastness among the scattered cliffs of a huge rock, one of the first nurseries for foxes m the county, or perhaps the kingdom ; about three miles due south. | Hepple was the native place ofthe renowned Robert Snowdon, who, in the 16th year of his age, fought and slew John Grieve, a celebrated Scotch champion, in a pitched battle, with small swords upon Gamble-Path, on the Borders. This circumstance appears to have taken place some time before the Union. This Robert Snowdon had a black horse, which he valued greatly : it was one night stolen, when he, accompanied by twe ROTHBURY PARISH. 77 At a short distance to the north-west of Hepple there is a British entrenched strong-hold, called Hetchester. The subjoined drawing will convey a correct idea of the form and. strength of this ancient hill fortress. The in terior length of the entrenchment is 140 yards, and the breadth 90 yards. The breadth of the inner ditch is 18 feet, and of the exterior ditch 15 feet. Each of the, rampiers is 15 feet in height, and 6 feet in breadth. The hib being very steep and difficult of access on the north-west side, the fort has had but two ditches in that part. Most of the entrenchments have been levelled, and it is only on the north-west side that they remain in any degree of good preservation. The foundations of the ancient buildings are very perceptible within the entrenchment. But all traces of this remarkable castra- metation wib soon be obliterated, as excavations for bme are proceeding in the heart of the works. On the opposite side of the Coquet is the military station called Harehaugh, described in tbe account of Holystone cha pelry. West of Hepple, and near the scite of the old chapel, a number of urns have been found. Hetchester, as its name imports, was in subsequent times occupied by the Romans, friends, pursued the thief to the Scottish Borders ; where, from a wretched hovel, his voice was answered by the neighing of his favourite ; on which the unsuspecting Snowdon dismounted, and rushed into the house ; but while in the act of unloosing his horse, he was run through the body by a concealed assassin. The family of the Snowdons were all distinguished for their intrepidity and dexterity in the petty, but fierce feuds of those turbulent times. Hepple was also the place of residence of William Allan, the noted vermin hunter. He was born at Bel- lingham in 1 704, and was first married to a girl of Gypsy stamp, and after her death to the daughter of a clergyman, who resided on the Borders of Scotland. He constantly kept a kennel containing ten dogs, of different sizes and breeds, each properly calculated and duly disciplined for the destruction of some particular species of animals. He was peculiarly attached to one dog among his valuable pack, called Peachem, and which he had trained to hunt otters. So confident was he of this animal's sagacity and perseverance, that he used to say, " If ever Peachem spoke, he could sell the otter's skin." A gentleman, whom he esteemed as his best friend, offered him (by way of experiment) 50 guineas for this animal ; but which Allan resolutely re fused. He was generally known throughout the county, being engaged to keep most of the gentlemen's fish-ponds free from all kinds of noxious vermin. He also excelled in the arts of fishing, basket-making, and bagpipe playing. Living on the banks of the Coquet, he drew great part of his subsistence from it, and de spised the man who suffered want on the banks of that fine river. He accumulated the sum of 400/. by his various vocations ; but lending it to a person who afterwards became insolvent, he was reduced to a parish pittance in the evening of his days. So attached was he to the Coquet, that he composed two tunes ; the one, " We'll a' to the Coquet and woo," and the other, " Salmon tails up the water." These favourite tunes he always played with enthusiastic animation. He was a perfect stranger to letters, vulgar in his manners, and uncouth in his conversation ; but his conceptions were keen, and his answers and remarks wonderfully shrewd and highly amusing. In the language of sportsmen, he died game;, for when nature seemed exhausted, and VOL. II. U 78 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. Debdon. — This township includes the north part of Rothbury forest. Debdon Hill and Cragend Hill, between the Black Burn and Debdon Burn, exhibit a most dreary and desolate aspect of heathy hills and rugged and naked cliffs. On the north his pious neighbours were kindly admonishing him of the awful consequences of dying unprepared, with all his sins upon his head, he exclaimed, with some degree of peevishness, " Pshaw ! hand me the pipes, and I'll give you Dorrington Lads yet !" Nor would he be pacified until they were brought, when he expended his last breath in attempting to sound his bagpipes. It is about 60 years since he died. The contents of his kennel were bequeathed to Mr. Bell (then steward to the late Lord Ravensworth, of Eslington Hall), and who once had thoughts of writing his life.- The notorious James Allan was the youngest of six sons of the above William. He was born in 1729-30, at a Gypsy camp or rendezvous in Rothbury Forest. From close application, assisted by a just and accurate ear for music, he became celebrated for his performances on the Northumberland small pipes ; and the supe rior sweetness of his melody always procured him a welcome reception at fairs, weddings, and merry meet ings. He was remarkably strong and athletic, and excelled in feats of running, jumping, climbing, wrestling, riding, and swimming. His face expressed a disposition to sharpness and cunning ; while his keen dark eyes, acute features, promptitude, and effrontery, imparted a look strongly indicative of roguery. He was extremely vain, and, like other fops of the Gypsy tribe, fond of gaudy, flaunting dress and ornaments. Though he enjoyed good living, his habitual caution saved him from habits of intoxication. He wa3 hasty and revengeful; but, wanting courage, he always effected his purposes by art and stratagem. Like his father, he had few competitors in field sports, and excelled so much in the art of training dogs, that he some times succeeded in learning them to steal with nearly as much dexterity as himself. Theft he did not seem to consider as any crime ; and, when detected in any of his pilfering tricks, he stood before his accusers un abashed, as if he inherited the right of plundering his neighbours. He was eminently successful in his illicit amours, and had a great many wives, two of whom are yet living ; but he seldom evinced any concern for his offspring. He frequently enlisted, as an eligible mode of raising supplies, and always deserted at the earliest opportunity. On one occasion, being pursued by a recruiting party in the neighbourhood of Hexham, on passing a stile, the drummer cut him with his sword upon the wrist. Allan viewed the wound with emo tion, and looking at the drummer with minstrel pride, exclaimed, " Ye hae spoiled the best pipe hand in England !" This accident prevented the repetition of such swindling tricks. He was twice acquitted of charges of felony at the assizes at Newcastle, but was at length convicted of horse-stealing, and received sen tence of death. His punishment was afterwards mitigated to perpetual imprisonment ; and after he had re mained in confinement at Durham for nearly seven years, his pardon was signed by the prince regent : but before it arrived, death had loosened his bonds. The long and chequered life of this famed piper was closed on the 13th of November, 1810. Innumerable anecdotes of this singular character, and a detailed account of his marvellous achievements, mostly written by Mr. Andrew Wight, a printer in North Shields, was pub lished by Mackenzie and Dent in 1818. It is, however, extremely difficult to ascertain the degree of authen- ticity which ought to be attached to many of the surprising adventures related by his bioo-rapher. Here it may be proper to observe, that the Northumberland pipe is blown with bellows, and, from its construction, the music which it plays is accompanied by such peculiar ornaments as neither violin nor even organ can imitate, but in an imperfect manner. It has but nine notes, the highest being D in alt. This an cient pipe is now almost superseded by the small pipes. By stops and keys it plays in the way called by the Italians staccato, and cannot slur. Some of these instruments have four drones ; and it is surprising what volubility is displayed by some performers on the improved small pipes. The wild, melancholy, and warlike sound of the Highland pibrochs is well known. The ancient Northumbrian music possesses the same wild and spirited characteristics. An ingenious gentleman of North Shields says, that, " Twenty-five years ago, James Allan played to me, at Elsdon court baron, a port pibroch on the regimental Northumberland bag pipes, to the astonishment and terror of some of the spectators." ROTHBURY PARISH. 79 side of the road leading from Alnwick to Rothbury are Debdon Wells. The princi pal spring has a strong current, and is exceedingly cold even in the hottest weather. These waters were formerly held in high estimation, and were much resorted to, par ticularly by people having feculent scorbutic eruptions, and were used both for bathing, and drinking with Epsom salt. The late Dr. Thomas Sharp was at consi derable expence in enclosing the wells, and erecting a convenient bath ; but a native debcacy stib prevented most people from availing themselves of the benefits to be derived from these waters, the situation being so much exposed to passengers on the road. It would certainly be worthy the Duke of Northumberland's bberabty to build a convenient house here, if the quabties of these springs be really so excebent as are generaby represented. Near to this place are many excavations, from which the late Captain Readhead, of Rothbury, obtained large quantities of ochre; but the great expence of carriage, as we are informed, induced that gentleman to aban don the undertaking. Debdon Fulling-mill is only about three-quarters of a mile east of Rothbury. Not far from this place is the famous Riever's Well, where many a riever of the Forest, or of Hepple barony, has refreshed himself when driving the cattle from the neighbourhood of Warkworth or Shilbottle.* All the preceding places are situated on the north side of the Coquet, except Whitton, which contains the rectory. Pauperhaugh stands on the eastern extremity of the parish, and on the north brink of the Coquet. This place, which is the property of the Duke of Northumber land, consists of three farmholds ; and, what is curious, every inhabitant, except one servant, is an Armstrong, and belongs to the same family. A new, level, and conve nient road winds along the margin of the river, from Weldon Bridge to Rothbury. It was lately formed, at the expence of £ 1400, principaby through the spirited and per severing exertions of Mr. Smart, of Trewitt House. Healy lies at a short distance north-west from Pauperhaugh, but presents nothing remarkable. Newtown stands south of the Coquet, and about one mile west from Whitton, upon the northern decbvity of a ridge of rocks, which extend westward the whole length of the parish on the south side of the river. It is the joint property of Messrs. J. and J. Railstone. Here the crystal streams of Cowet-webs unite, after dashing down the rocky steep, and, passing Tosson mill, are lost among the waters of the Co quet. Carterside, which is situated between Whitton and Newtown, belongs to Colonel Judgson and the Duke of Northumberland. At a little distance south from this place is a ridge of limestone, which is wrought with great ease and advantage ; and about half a mile further to the south is Whitton Dean, under which, it is pre sumed, runs a valuable vein of lead ore. Some partial attempts have been made to open the mine, which, for want of sufficient skib and capital, miscarried. However, * The most noted of these bold and daring thieves was Gawen Readhead, outlawed temp, queen Elizabeth, and who resided in a large hollow oak, on the Brinkburn estate. The field it grew in is still called Gawen's Field ; and it was of such large dimensions, that the tenants wintered in it half a dozen calves in the begin ning of the last century. Tradition says that he was as notorious a moss-trooper as any Armstrong or Elliott of Liddesdale, or the Riever of Westburnflat. V 80 COQUETDALE WARD.— W. D. there is little doubt but a spirited adventurer might here obtain a valuable source of wealth, as the ore which has been found is of a very rich quabty. Great Tosson stands at the distance of about half a mile west from Newtown, on a spot where the worst and best kinds of soil come in contact : on the south side are black and barren mountains ; and on the north, fine loamy lands. This place formerly con tained many houses, though now reduced to two farmsteads. Here are still the remains of a strong and stately tower, which ab tke rage for devastation has not been able totaby to destroy. The limestone here is of a very strong quabty, and a considerable quan tity is prepared at the kilns for sale. This place, with the mountain of Simonside, is the property of W. Ord, Esq. of Nunnykirk ; but A. Atkinson, Esq of Lorbottle, has a freehold here, and there is a farm purchased with Queen Anne's Bounty, for the augmentation of the chapeby of Ancroft. The mountain of Simonside, which lies south of Tosson Hib, consists of a ridge of hibs, stretching east and west. The principal hib is 1287 feet above the level ofthe Coquet. It has a black, bleak appearance, and is whoby covered with heath. At its south-west base is a moraSs of many acres extent, cabed the Boddlemos. On the eastern extremity of the range of Simonside Hills, and by Newton Park, is Burgh Hill, upon which may stib be distinctly traced a very curious specimen of British castrametation, with a triple ram- pier. The annexed sketch is from a drawing belonging to Mr. Smart, and executed by Mr. E. Smith, of Rothbury. It contains 7 acres, 1 rood, and 10 poles. A is a dyke, and the bne marked B shews the limits of a corn field, from which a road runs westward through this old fortification. It is one of the largest ancient encampments in the county, and commands a very extensive prospect, including Alemouth and Druridge Bay, where the Saxons and Danes were accustomed to land on their pre datory expeditions. Between this military station and Simonside a ROTHBURY PARISH. 81 rowton and Netherton to Alnham. These three great roads, being united at Alnham, were carried up past the Castle Hill to the fortified British village formerly described at the junction of the rivers Breamish and Linhope, passed the Druidical circle called Three Stone Burn, and proceeded below Langley Ford to Kirknewton. These an cient trackways may be traced by the deep-worn ruts in the soil, and were quite dis tinct from the Roman causeways which succeeded them. The former were merely driftways, running through the woods, and winding on the sides of the hiUs. They were never raised, and, as the Rev. T. Lemon observes, had a peculiar feature, the reason of which is not known, of being divided during their course into several branches, running parabel with the bearing oi the original road. These roads appear, however, to have been sufficiently solid for the passage of cattle and chariots. In short, the more closely the remains of the ancient Britons are examined in this county, the more reason we have to admire their skill in the choice of military sta tions, and in the disposition of their principal roads. Rye-Hill, the property of W. Readhead, Esq. is seated on an eminence which overlooks the fertile haughs of the Coquet, three miles west from Rothbury, and one mile south of the river. The prospect from this place is rich and pleasing. Little Tosson stands pleasantly on a rising ground, about a mile to the south west from Rye-Hib. It is the property of Thomas Clenneb, Esq. of Harbottle Castle, and includes a large farm, which stretches towards Simonside Hib. Bickerton is distant one mile west from Little Tosson, and five miles from Roth bury. It stands upon a pleasant level, the moor-lands forming a semicircle on the south and west, and the Coquet-haughs, with other rich pastures, on the north and east. Formerly this village was the joint property of four persons, all of the name of Snowdon, whose bastile buildings are yet standing ; but none of the family have any property here at present. Fallowlees is situated north of Roughlees Burn. The lough called Fallowlees Lough lies a little to the north. Hesley Hurst township lies between the Forest Burn and Maglin Burn, which forms the southern boundary of the parish, Hol- linghill stands at a short distance north from the Forest Burn bar. All the south east part of the parish is dotted with neat farm-houses and comfortable cottages * * After the account of this parish was written, a communication was received from Mr. Smart, of Trewitt, who writes as follows :— " I found a small book, entitled, Northumberland Antiquities, in the British Mu seum, giving an account of Cartington Castle being defended by the neighbouring gentry, among whom were the Selbys, Claverings, Horsleys, Widdringtons, in the time of Charles I. against the parliament forces, headed by Tempest and other gentlemen of the county of Durham, and the Greys and other gentlemen of Northum berland, After a few hours' resistance, the chronicle concludes with saying, they surrendered at discretion; and their horses, taken in an enclosure, were all carried off." This gentleman also observes, that Whittort Tower came into the possession of the Percys by the marriage of Henry, the first Lord Percy, with the widow of Earl Gilbert Umfranville, who died 1381 ; but he has not been able to learn the time when the exchange took place, of the old hall and glebe, which lay intermixed through the demesne of Rothbury, for Whitton Tower and the present glebe land. It is worthy of remark, that the only remains of the Feudal System in the VOL. IL X 82 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D. KIDLAND LORDSHIP, The extra-parochial lordship of Kidland is included amongst the constableries of Rothbury. It includes a large tract of country, extending from Rowhope on the Borders, east to Hobop, a distance of 11 miles ; and from the western extremity of Cheviot to the bottom of Kidland Lee, about eight and a half miles. This extensive district consists of a number of lofty verdant hills, of a conical form ; yet, when viewed from the top of Cheviot, or from its rival in height, the Cushit Law, they appear like a number of beautiful hillocks rising graduaby in exact arrangement. The glens which divide these hibs are of every variety of form, and exhibit, in sum mer, all that is picturesque in the most beautiful mountain scenery. Neither freestone nor limestone are found in Kidland ; but whinstone, of every variety, is very plentiful. Here the Cheviot breed of sheep are found in their full perfection. The sweet green herbage on which they depasture seems to be pecubarly favourable for breeding this useful and beautiful race of animals. Here they are never attacked by the rot, and are seldom subject to any other disease excepting what is called the Pining; and that can easily be cured by removing the stragglers so affected for a few weeks to a soil incumbent on freestone. The weight of the fleece is, on an average, 3 lb. ; and the wintering stock, from its assured soundness, always sells higher in proportion to its weight, than that belonging to any other store-grounds in the county : yet the many advantages that apply to those healthy sheep-walks is frequently mixed with evil. In winter, the storm often bursts unexpectedly upon the hibs, and the flocks which escape the drifting snow are compebed to seek shelter on the slope of steep hills, and, if a sudden thaw succeed, great numbers are swept into the burns below, where they inevitably perish. Every precaution is employed to prevent such fatal accidents, but frequently without effect. Of these sheep farms, the flocks (if no particular circumstance occurs) are only ga thered or counted twice in the year, viz. at shearing time and the salving season : the latter practice is now never performed among the aged sheep, and but rarely among the young. The sheep-farmers have abandoned the absurd custom of milking their ewes, and of throwing their manure into some burn during a flood. Their dung is county is preserved here ; for the rector, as lord of the manor, commands the freeholders to work so many days at the hay and corn harvest. Dr. Thomas Sharp, in a paper, intituled, "The Case ofthe Whitton Farms," says, " I find in a letter of Dr. Manby's, formerly rector of Rothbury (about the year 1630), that the Whitton te nants did conceal from him, and probably destroy, a charter, belonging to the rector ; ever since which time these tenants, or, as they call themselves, freeholders, have answered to the court of another lord of the manor, at Bowls Green near Morpeth." But the rector's right, as lord of the manor, is not now disputed. Warton, a township of Hepple barony (see page 71), in the beginning of the last century belonged to the Portland family, Gilbert Park, Esq. and the Potts family, connected with the Widdringtons of Colt Park. It now belongs to Lord Ravensworth, Mrs. Crawford, and Robert Spearman, Esq. Hepple barony was sold by the Duke of Portland, in 1803, for 80,000*. to Sir John Buchanan Riddle, Bart, of Riddle House, in Roxburgh shire. He still retains Hepple township, Rimpside Wood, and 1200 acres of heath, &c. The only instance of remarkable longevity at present in the parish is a woman at Whitton, named Isabella Burn, now in the 104th year of her age. She is grandmother of Mrs. Ramsay, of Netherwitton. ROTHBURY PARISH. 83 now applied to enrich their meadows. It is not uncommon to see here several years' growth of hay standing in as many stacks, ab of which is sometimes consumed during one severe winter. Lately, however, in such seasons, it has become usual to convey the sheep to turnips in the lower lands. The inhabitants of this district retained many of the peculiar customs and manners of the Borderers longer, perhaps, than those of any other part of the county. Their houses were always built in a low glen, by the side of a rivulet, and were formed of whinstone, daubed with mud, mixed perhaps with a small proportion of bme. The farmers usually paid their rents yearly, on St. Andrew's day, at Newcastle, when they generally provided groceries, which, with a stock of salted beef, whiskey, and a few other necessary articles, served them until the long and dreary winter was past, and they seldom visited any other market until the succeeding summer. Like ab other people devoted to a tame, languid, and insipid occupation, they were fond of strong liquors, which exhilarate the spirits, and, by a temporary madness, vary the uniform circula tion of thought. Cards also was a favourite pastime when they met in parties. On the north brink of the Coquet is a whinstone rock, on which stood formerly a whis key-house, called Slyme-foot, which was the winter rendezvous of ab the neighbouring sheep-farmers : here they resigned themselves to gambling and hard drinking ; and, lost in a whirl of dissipation to all care and recobection, the days passed by unheeded, while their servants travebed to and fro to receive orders and transmit intelligence. These ruinous excesses, however, at last reached the ears of the late Dr. Thomas Sharp, rector of Rothbury, and archdeacon of Northumberland, who threatened the offenders with ecclesiastical punishment if they did not desist, and weekly attend their respective places of worship. His injunctions had the desired effect ; and since that time no such riotous assemblies have been held ; while the superior knowledge and correct conduct of the present sheep-farmers have operated to produce a corres pondent, change in the character of their servants. The shepherds in Kidland are peculiarly attached to their dogs ; and not without reason, for the sagacity, activity, and discrimination of these animals, are truly sur prising, and would scarcely be credited by those who have not had an opportunity of observing their actions. On setting out in a morning, the dog, without receiving any instructions, takes a round to scour the skirts of his limits ; in doing which he is careful to detect and drive any stranger that may attempt to intrude within his liberties, and to reclaim such stragglers as have wandered from his own flock. His master has nothing to do but to repair to a certain station, where the industrious ani mal never fails to meet him. If ab be web, he returns cheerfully ; but if a dead sheep be within his tract (which he discovers by the smell), he approaches his master in a dejected manner, and leads him to the spot where the carcase bes. One of the most interesting objects in Kidland is Milkhope Hill, on the south sides of which are the traces of entrenchments, which were probably formed by the primi tive inhabitants of this district. Opposite to the east corner is a tremendous steep, : over which a sheet of water dashes with terrific fury. This obscure and rugged spot is a safe asylum for innumerable flocks of carrion crows, and other voracious birds, that prey upon the lambs in the yeaning season. Memmerkirk stood on the north side of the Alwine, at the foot of the Cushit Law, whose lofty summit seems lost among the clouds ; Milkhope Rig sheltered it on the 84 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. east, and Heigh Rig, on the west. The situation is singularly romantic, and its beauty is considerably improved by a pleasant and fertile plot of land which adjoins the water. The kirk is now in ruins, and its complete destruction is accelerated in consequence of part of its stones being annuaby employed in repairing a neighbouring sheep-pool. The beautiful sheep-walks in Kidland were formerly the scene of constant theft and spuihie, and were occupied with little profit. When the descendants of Dick o' the Cow, and Kinmont Willie, and Jock o' the Side, were labouring in the vocation of their fathers, the flocks and herds of their neighbours were always in jeopardy. This state of " rief and felonie" is web described in a Border babad : — " Rookhope stands in a pleasant place, But limmer thieves drives them away, If the false thieves wad let it be ; That fears neither heaven nor hell ? But away they steal our goods apace. And ever an ill death may they dee ! Then in at Rookhope head they come, They run the forest but a mile, Ah me .' is not this a pitiful case, They gather'd together in four hours That men dare not drive their goods to the fell, Six hundred sheep within a while." Even so late as the year 1631, Kidland lordship was let for £5 a year. In 1731, it let for £ 400 a year ; and a few years ago, it was let by the proprietor, Sir Thomas Legard, Bart, of Yorkshire, for £3000 per annum ; and besides this estate, there are several small freeholds in this lordship. The astonishing rise in the value of these sheep-farms is principally to be attributed to the increased security of possession, and the various and multiplied blessings of internal peace.* ••?*-K8H<*«». — SOUTH DIVISION. ¦» ? » ELSDON PARISH. This extensive parish includes the whole of the south division of Coquetdale Ward. It is bounded on the east by Rothbury parish, on the north-east and north by Holy stone and Alwinton, on the north-west by Roxburghshire, on the south-west by Fal- stone and Bellingham, and on the south by Corsenside. From Reed Square, on the Borders, it extends above 18 miles, in aline east by south, to Darden Lough; but the breadth is scarcely one-third of the length. It is divided into six wards, viz. Elsdon ward, Monkridge ward, Otterburn ward, Rochester ward, Troughend ward, Woodside ward, and Ramshope, extra-parochial ; and contains 333 houses, and 1855 inhabitants. This large parish is but very thinly peopled. The lands' being ill adapted to the growth of grain, agricultural pursuits attract little attention, further than to meet the wants of their own families. Indeed, the whole parish a few years ugo contained little else than large neglected heaths, and extensive morasses, which * See Northumberland and Newcastle Mag. vol. i. p. 235. ELSDON PARISH. 85 exhibited the most desolate appearance. But the spirit of improvement has lately changed the face of these uncultivated wilds, and large tracts of barren moor have been inclosed, and converted into grazing ground, for the rearing and feeding of both cattle and sheep. Since the low grounds were drained, the former mortality amongst the sheep has greatly decreased. The old grass lands here are also of excebent qua lity, and are used with advantage for the feeding of black cattle ; and for grazing milch cows they cannot be exceeded, the abundance and quality of the grass render ing the produce of the dairy greater than in almost any other part. Redesdale was anciently covered with wood, which has long ago been extirpated.* In the forests of the Reed and Tyne, those brave and dexterous archers were reared, who often tried their skib with the bold foresters of Ettrick Forest. " In Redesdale his youth had heard Each art her wily dalesmen dared, When Rooken-edge and Redswair high To bugle rung and blood-hounds' cry, Announcing Jedwood's axe and spear, And Lid'sdale riders in the rear ; And well his venturous life had proved The lessons that his childhood loved." Rokeby, canto iii. s. 2. Redesdale, at the conquest, was given to Robert de Umfranville, on condition of keeping it free from wolves and thieves.f The former were soon and easby reduced ; * At the era of the Roman invasion, Northumberland was probably in its natural state, with the defences of hill forts, and the communications of tract ways ; the inhabitants feeding on the milk and flesh of their cattle. Even after the Romans erected their wall, settled their stations, made their roads, and planted their villas, cultivation seems to have been confined principally to the fertile, sheltered, and protected vale of the Tyne. The extension of husbandry was reserved for the Saxons ; but still the forests and woods constituted at once the chief beauty and riches of the country. Numerous herds of swine and cattle, and a very hardy race of horses, found food and shelter in the woodlands. Long after the Norman conquest, this county was covered with natural wood. These were, however, destroyed in the savage contests that so long desolated the county ; and " what of wood the waste of war had spared, when inveteracy prompted destruction, more recent rapacity has felled." Besides the extensive Forests of Redesdale, Cheviot, Rothbury, Earsdon, Lowes, Allendale, and Knares- dale, many places derive their names from their woods. For instance, we have Screnwood, where a single tree does not now grow, Reedswood, Scotchwood, Lipwood, Harwood, Chesterwood, Norwood, Stobswood, Pegswood, Clarewood, Hogswood, Ratchwood, Coltingwood, Babswood, Sidwood, Weetwood, Kingswood„ Donkleywood, Westwood, Broadwood, Moorwood, Threapwood, Wilkwood, Lilswood, Eastwood, Highwood, Featherwood, Hianswood, Toddlewood, Edgewood, Galewood, Hillywood, Widdrington (Woodrington) and Woodburn, Woodside, Woodhalls, and Woodhouses. There are also Oakwood, Oakpool, Oakerland, Oakey- side, Oakaleon, and Oakhall. Many places are named Shaws, from the Saxon Shaw, meaning a copsewood ; and there are many compound appellations, as Stagshaw, Birkshaw, Longshaw, Sportyshaw, Fairshaw, Buck- shaw, Hangingshaw, Ramshaw, Elishaw, Henshaw, Pondershaw, Akenshaw, Gallyshaw, Shawdon, &c. Ash trees, Ashington, Harewillows, and many places named Hezleys, Birks, Hirsts (a small wood), and Ellers (alders), indicate their ancient growth and appearance. Many wooded valleys, which the Saxons termed Deans, still retain much of their sylvan scenery. Several parts have been lately much improved, and en riched with extensive plantations ; but many of the hills are covered with scrubby firs, which add little either to the value or the beauty of the land. t " Upon search, it was found in one of the books of knights' fees, in the custody of the king's remem* brancer, that Gilbert de Humfranvill, in 1428, held Riddesdale per regalem potestalem, by royal power, VOL. II. — (25) Y 86 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. but the latter retained their ground in this quarter until a very recent period. The cairns of stones scattered over the whole dale, and the large stones that have been erect ed, attest the many battles and skirmishes that in remote times have taken place in this district. The Saxons and Danes, who successively emigrated into the woods and mountains of Redesdale, uniformly adopted the independent habits and marauding pursuits of the British inhabitants. Contemning the restraints of law, and indifferent to the quarrels of kings, they lived by plundering their richer and less warbke neigh bours. When the executive power became sufficiently strong to repress these disor ders, the turbulency of disposition, and aversion from restraint, which had always distinguished the men of Redesdale, were displayed in their fondness of btigious suits. In the former part of the last century, the county-court at Alnwick was constantly crowded with the people of Elsdon. At this time, also, the most inveterate animosity existed between them and the inhabitants of Rothbury, as was before hinted, on mentioning the family of Potts, of Warton. At all public meetings, the prowess of both parties was displayed in a desperate match at cudgels, and, whatever was the result, each party, bke the mighty armies of the European empires, generaby claimed the victory. The lands in Elsdon parish were formerly divided among a number of bttle free holders ; but the general propensity of the descendants of the Northumbrian Border ers for gambbng and public sports, was continuaby involving them in embarrassments, and their estates gradually passed into the possession of the more prudent gentlemen of, the law. To such a length was their improvidence carried, that a correspondent, of the strictest veracity, informed us, that he was personaby acquainted with upwards of forty freeholders in Elsdon parish, who neither themselves nor their descendants are now possessed of an inch of ground ! Martin Hall, in 1703, left by wbl £24 to the poor of Elsdon, which was converted into a rent-charge, and vested in Colonel Reed, previous to the year 1786. John Hedley, in 1746, left £40 for the same purpose. A dividend of 3s. 6d. in the pound upon this donation was received, many years ago, by Gabriel Goldburn, without any security for principal or interest. In 1748, 10*. per annum was left by Cuthbert Fenwick, for the education of the poor ; but which was never so applied, and the jperson-who now possesses the lands pleads the Mortmain Act. There is a school in every ward of this parish except Monkridge ; and another at Byrness, for the gratui tous instruction of twelve children. The Rev. Thomas Singleton, rector, says, "The poor of Elsdon make great sacrifices to obtain the means of education for their chb- dren : but the number allowed to attend the Byrness school, free, is seldom cobected ; There was no species of tenure in England known by the name of royal power. I do humbly apprehend, that in this case the tenure was barony, accompanied with a full power of a Lord Marcher foreagainst Scot land, like that baronial power which was anciently vested in the Earl of Chester, for the time being, or some other great Lord Marcher, foreagainst Wales." (Madox, Bar. Ang. p. 244.) In the 10th of queen Eliza beth, 1567, this "province" belonged to the crown. Sir John Freeman Mitford, ofthe ancient Northumbrian family of that name, is a large proprietor in Redesdale, and was advanced to the peerage by patent, dated February 15, 1802, by the title of Baron Redesdale of Redesdale in ihe County of Northumberland; but the Duke of Northumberland is lord paramount of the district, for which he holds a court-leet at Elsdon. Redes- dale includes the whole of Corsenside parish, in Tynedale Ward. ELSDON PARISH. 87 nor do the shepherds seem to shew any great inclination to avail themselves of the opportunity ; partly because the chapel is situated in the most unfrequented part of the parish, and partly from an unaccountable prejudice amongst the lower ranks against any thing which is given absolutely gratuitously'' It is, perhaps, to be re gretted that the " prejudice" against receiving what is given " gratuitously," has de clined so much in England. This feeling is the source of industry and independence. Elsdon, or Elsden, is distant 21 miles west-north-west from Morpeth, and 29 miles north-west from Newcastle. It is pleasantly situated upon a plain, declining to the east and south, through which runs a fine rivulet, cabed Elsdon Burn, which falls into the Reed. It is a straggling built town, inclosing a considerable space of ground, and containing 31 inhabited houses, including three public houses, many of which are tolerably web built. Here is a fair on the 26th of August for a few cattle, and some articles of merchandize. The church, which is dedicated to St. Cuthbert, stands on the west side of the village. It is a small ancient structure, and has once been much larger on the north side, " In clearing away the earth recumbent against the north transept, the bones of upwards of one hundred persons were lately found, regularly deposited in double rows, the skub of one alternately lying between the thigh-bones of another. Behind the chancel was also found a tomb-stone, with a cross and a sword carved upon it ; the monument of a young man, as appeared by the beautiful freshness of his teeth."* The hving is a rectory, in the gift of the Duke of North umberland, and is valued in the king's books at £20 ; though the real value was lately estimated at about £2000.f The rectory-house stands at a smab distance from the * Beauties of England, vol. xii. part i. page 145. t The Rev. Louis Dutens (or DuchillonJ, A. M. and F. R. S. Historiographer to his Majesty, and Hono. rary Member of the French Academy of Belles Lettres, held, during a considerable period, this valuable Kving. He was a French adventurer, of a limited education, and of very ordinary talents ; yet by the " arts of subservient assiduity and persevering cajolement," he was eminently successful in promoting his own inte rests and aggrandizement. He wrote several literary and antiquarian trifles, and published an account of his own life, under the title of " Memoirs of a Traveller, now in Retirement." The Edinburgh Reviewers (vol. viii. p. 347) conclude an analysis of this work, which first appeared in the French language, in these words : "Upon the whole, our opinion of this work and of its author is nearly the same. Neither the merits of the one, nor the life of the other, claim any considerable portion of our respect. Of the various capacities in which he has appeared — as an author of forgotten books— an attendant upon the rich and great — a leader of their children round the tour of Europe — a clergyman — a charge d'affaires — the historian of his own life and time— and a measurer of the post-roads on the Continent — we chiefly value him in his last function. * * * * * jjis ijfe jjag Deen one that frequently brings learning and wit into contempt, by subjecting those pure and estimable gifts to the caprices of rank, and the vulgar influence of wealth ; and that Mr. Dutens can only now claim our respect in his quality of a worn-out odometer, which may have been serviceable in its day." Mr. Dutens was most liberally patronized by the Northumberland family ; and one of his opulent friends, Mr. Mackenzie Stuart, brother of Lord Bute, bequeathed him property to the amount of 15 000/. "The parishioners at Elsdon," says a writer in the Newcastle Magazine for April, 1823, "expressed much dissatisfaction when they learnt that a foreigner was established as their minister, and on his first visit to take possession of his benefice, his appearance confirmed the dislike ; but in preaching the first sermon, the dis content rose to clamorous opposition, one and all declaring they had not understood a single word of his dis- 88 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. church, and commands a very fine prospect. It is a strong ancient tower, with a cir cular staircase at one corner. Its lowest story is spanned with one large arch. On its front is the Umfranville arms, underneath which is a mutilated inscription, in this form : " U. B. "Ot Vtie f which Hutchinson reads, Robertus or Rogerus Dom. de Rede, and which, he imagines, refers to Umfranville, Lord of Prudhoe, who died about the year 1325. The rectory was lately much repaired and greatly improved. It is surrounded by a fine shrubbery and thriving plantations. The lordship of Elsdon was in the possession of Luke Clennel, of Clennel, Esq. 18 king Edward I. in which, and in his lordship of Clennel, he then had a grant of free-warren. In the reign of king Edward VI. it was in the possession of Sir Ralph Grey, of Chibingham, and of his son, Thomas Grey, 10 queen Ehzabeth, then a minor ; and lately of Charles Howard, Esq. of Overacres, whose son sold it, with the patronage of the rectory of Elsdon, and his paternal seat and estate of Overacres* to the first Duke of Northumberland, to whose noble famfly it now belongs. This town stands two miles east from Watling-street, and lays claim to a very high antiquity. It is supposed to have been a Roman town in the time of M. Aurebus Antoninus; and General Roy states it to have been the first of a chain of forts between Watling-street and its eastern branch, cabed the Devb's Causeway ; the se cond having been on the Coquet, behind Hepple, on a hib now cabed Hetchester. The Mote Hill stands at a little distance north-east from the town. It is of a conical shape, and appears to have been so formed by art. It is surrounded by a moat, which was ten yards deep, and which is only in part fibed up. On the north side, where the defence is weakest, it has been strengthened by a breast- work. Mr, Wallis thinks that it has been used as a watch-hib, and for the purposes of sepulture. The ancient uses of these hibs, and the derivation of the term Mote Mill, has been already examined. (See vol. i. p. 340 and 378.) During the time of the Romans, this mount has been used both for the purposes of religion and sepulture. The bones of animals, which were supposed to have been used in sacrifice, have frequently been course, and a petition to the bishop for relief was the theme of every tongue. Although well informed of all that was passing, he appeared to know nothing of the matter, but freely mixed among the people with the most winning and chearful condescension, and in going round the parish, he personally invited to dine with him, at the Old Castle, as many of the higher class as his table would accommodate. On the appointed day, as they arrived, they were shewn into a room, and when the whole had met, he entered the room with ex pressions of the utmost surprise at seeing them there, declaring that he had no reason to expect the honour of a visit from any one of them on that day. One of them very warmly appealed to himself if he had not in person invited them to dine with him. ' Oh, yes !' returned the clerical humourist, ' Oh, yes ! my very goot friend, I did invite you, and you, and you, to my dine, but you all say, every one of you say, you no under stand one word I speak. Oh ho ! very goot, when I preach you from my pulpit, you no understand my speak, but when I invite you to my goot dine, you very well understand !' It was instantly perceived that the play off was a good-humoured joke upon themselves, and a hearty laugh at each other was the prelude to the dinner bell. By similar practices of pleasing chearfulness, he in time conciliated his parishioners, and still more by being commendably moderate in the exaction of his tithes.'' Mr. Dutens died in London, May 3, 1812, in the 83d year ofhis age. * Mr. Hedley says that acer, or aker, now used for a certain space or measure of ground, formerly signified ii field. Overacres is, therefore, Saxon for the Upper Fields. ELSDON PARISH. 89 found buried in this hib, besides smab urns, containing the ashes of burnt bones, and some imperfect Roman altars. "From its name, however," observes Mr. Hedley, " it is evident that the Mote Hib (which I believe to be the most perfect and remark able earth- work with this appebation to be found in Northumberland) was afterwards in the occupation of the Saxons. Hence, probably, its name, Els-don, from the Anglo-Saxon, elde, old, and dun, or don, a hib, or fort upon a hill ; referring to its ancient occupation by the Romans. Els-bury, in Scotland, is translated by Baxter, anti qua arx. It may, however, have been the Dun, or fort, of Ella ; a common name among the Saxons." Fabulous tradition relates that a giant, cabed Eba, resided here, and committed great ravages in the neighbourhood. Two Roman altars, inscribed to the local deity, Matu- nus, were discovered at this place; and two others, dedi- 1. deo matvno... cated to M. Aurebus Antoninus. Mr. Horsley has given pro salvte. the annexed inscriptions found here. No. 2 was removed to Durham, where it now is. The bnes which are want- 2. b... no generis ing have been evidently struck out with a tool ; which is hvman. impe usually observed to have been practised on revolutions in rante c the empire, or upon the person's fabing into disgrace who is mentioned in the inscription. This particularly is aug. pr. pr. posvit thought to have been done with relation to Geta, by the ac dedicavit order of his brother Caracaba, in some other inscriptions in c. A. acil Britain. The author of Britannia Romana cannot think that the name of Geta has been upon this* altar ; for this neither agrees with the letter C, yet very plain and visible, nor with the sequel of the inscription, which is very clear and distinct. Bono generis Humani Imperante Calpurnio Agricola Legato Augustali Propraetore posuit ac dedicavit Caius Aulus Acilius. The first words in the fifth bne are undoubtedly Augustali Propraetore, which makes it certain, that Legato, and the name of "the beutenant, have gone before, according to the usual form. Supposing Calpurnius Agricola to be the name that has been designedly erased, he believes that as the letters wib exactly fib up the empty space, so that supply wib suit very web, both with what goes before and what fobows. Imperante Calpurnio Agricola, he takes to be the same with sub Calpurnio Agricola, or perhaps jussu Calpurnii Agrico-> lae, which so frequently occurs in such sort of subscriptions. There is some difficulty in forming a notion of the meaning of an altar erected Bono generis humani ; but this may seem as intebigible as an altar erected Bono fato, Bono eventui, &c. and perhaps has much the same meaning. There are coins with Salus Generis humani upon them. If the conjecture concerning Calpurnius Agricola be admitted, it wbl then fobow, that this inscription belongs to the time of M. Aurelius Antoninus, whose legate this Agricola was ; and consequently that the Romans were in his time possessed of this station. Some have thought that both No. 1 and 2 are fragments of the same stone, and that they should be read thus : — Deo Matuno pro salute et bono generis humani impe rante Geta Augusta sub legato augustali propraetore posuit ac dedicavit Caius Aulus Acilius...... Mr. Horsley, however, did not entirely coincide in this reading, for the reasons above given, and because these two altars did not seem to him to be fragments of the same stone. vol. ii, Z 90 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. The country around Elsdon consists of valuable grazing ground. To the east hes a tract of sterile, bleak, and dismal moorlands, on which is the noted crag of Key- heugh, and that named Cloven-crag, at the distance of about half a mile from each other. Near the former, on the border of Rothbury parish, is Darden Lough, in which leeches used to be caught. About a mile south-west of Elsdon is a lofty emi nence cabed Gallow-law, which commands an extensive prospect of the vale of Reed. Woodside.— This township includes an extensive tract of land of various qualities, mostly tibable, lying to the northward of Elsdon. It was formerly covered with wood, of which bttle now remains. Coal has been found in various parts of this dis trict. The buildings are mostly what are cabed Peels, and were formerly inhabited by their respective proprietors. About thirty-five years ago, a great crime was committed here. The profligate leader of a Faw gang, accompanied by two female associates, entered, under cover of the night, into the house of an old single woman, named Margaret Crozier, who was reported to be possessed of some money, and after murdering her in the most shock ing manner, plundered the house, and retired undiscovered. This horrid act roused the indignation of the public ; the notorious Wbliam Winter (whose father and bro ther were executed together at Morpeth a few years before) and his two companions (of the name of Clark, of a family equally notorious) were suspected, and, in conse quence of the activity of the late Walter Trevelyan, Esq. apprehended and con demned, on the clearest evidence. The bodies of the misguided girls were given to the surgeons for dissection, and that of Winter was hung in chains near the place where the barbarous deed was committed. This loathsome spectacle at length feU into pieces, and another gibbet, on which the rude figure of a man in wood is sus pended, now occupies its place. Otterburn is a remarkably pleasant vblage, situated on the north side of the river Reed, three miles west from Elsdon. Its name is derived from the rivulet cabed Otter, which runs by the west side of the vibage. This place is famous for being the scene of one of the most bloody and best contested actions that was ever fought between two gallant armies, led on by chiefs renowned for valour, honour, and generosity. The natural partiality of native historians has induced them to re present the combat in different bghts ; but fortunately we have a very circumstantial narrative of the whole affair from Sir John Froissart, an esteemed French writer, who lived at that time, and who compiled his account from the testimony of respectable persons of both the rival nations. He appears to be unbiassed, and relates the parti culars of this noted action with the highest encomiums on the valour of the combat ants on both sides.' We shall therefore adopt his narrative, from the modern translation of Mr. Johnes, omitting some unimportant digressions, and adding a few blustrative notes and remarks. " In the 1 2th king Richard II. the distracted state of the English kingdom invited the hostibties of the French. Accordingly, the barons and knights of Scotland se cretly assembled their men at arms in the forest of Jedburgh, amounting to upwards of 41,000. The main body directed its march to Carlisle, and the Earls of Douglas, Moray, and March, were detached into Northumberland, at the head of 300 picked ELSDON PARISH. 91 lance^r and 2000 choice infantry. The Earl of Douglas and his companions were eager to perform some deed of arms. Riding at a good pace through the roads, without attacking town, castle, or house, arrived on the lands of the Lord Percy, and crossed the river Tyne, without any opposition, at the place they had fixed on, about three leagues above Newcastle, near to Brancepeth, where they entered the rich county of Durham, and instantly began their war, by burning towns and slaying the inhabitants. " Neither the Earl of Northumberland, lior the barons and knights of the country had heard any thing of their invasion : but when intebigence came to Durham and Newcastle that the Scots were abroad, which was indeed visible enough from the smoke which was every where seen, the Earl of Northumberland sent his two sons to Newcastle ; but he himself remained at Alnwick, and issued his orders for every one to repair thither also. Before his sons left him, he said, 'You wib hasten to New castle, where the whole country will join you : I wib remain here, for it is the road they may return by : if we can surround them, we shab do web ; but I know not for certain where they now are.' Sir Henry and Sir Ralph Percy obeyed their father's orders, and made for Newcastle, accompanied by the gentlemen and others fit to bear arms. In the mean time, the Scots continued destroying and burning ab before them, so that the smoke was visible at Newcastle. They came to the gates of Dur ham, where they skirmished, but made no long stay, and set out on their return, as they had planned at the beginning of the expedition, driving and carrying away ab the booty they thought worth their pains.* " The three Scottish lords, having completed the object of their expedition into Durham, lay before Newcastle three days, where there was an almost continual skir mish. The sons of the Earl of Northumberland, from their great courage, were always the first at the barriers, when many valiant deeds were done with lances hand to hand. The Earl of Douglas had a long conflict with Sir Henry Percy, and in it, by gabantry of arms, won his pennon (or colour), to the great vexation of Sir Henry and the other English. The Earl of Douglas said, « 1 wib carry this token of your prowess with me to Scotland, and place it on the tower of my castle at Dalkeith, that it may be seen from far.' ' By God, Earl of Douglas,' repbed Sir Henry, ' you shab * In the old ballad entitled "The Battle of Otterburne," the progress of this expedition is thus de scribed :— " Yt felle abowght the Lamasse tyde, Whan husbonds wynn ther haye, The dowghtye Dowglasse bowynd him to ryde, In Ynglond to take a praye : Over Ottercap' hyll they came in, And so dowyn by Rodelyffe cragge, Upon Grene Leyton they lyghted dowyn, Styrande many a stagge : And boldely brente Northomberlonde, And haryed many a towyn ; They did our Ynglyssh men grete wrange, To battell that were not bowyn. Then spake a berne upon the bent, Of comforte that was not colde, And sayde, We have brent Northomberland, We have all welth in holde. Now we have haryed aiyjamboroweshyre, All the welth in the world have wee ; I rede we ryde to Newe Castell, So styll and stalwurthlye." 92 COQUETDALE WARD— S. D. not even bear it out of Northumberland : be assured you shab never have this pennon to brag of.' ' You must come then,' answered Earl Douglas, « this night and seek for it. I wib fix your pennon before my tent, and shall see if you will venture to take it away.' As it was now late, the skirmish ended, and each party retired to their quar ters, to disarm and comfort themselves. They had plenty of every thing, particularly flesh meat. The Scots kept up a very strict watch, concluding, from the words of Sir Henry Percy, they should have their quarters beaten up this night : they were disappointed, for Sir Henry was advised to defer it. " On the morrow, the Scots dislodged from before Newcastle ; and, taking the road to their own country, they came to a town and castle cabed Pontclau (Ponteland), of which Sir Haymon d'Alphel, a very valiant knight of Northumberland, was the lord* They halted there about four o'clock in the morning, as they learnt the knight to be within it, and made preparations for the assault. This was done with such courage, that the place was won, and the knight made prisoner. After they had burnt the town and castle, they marched away for Otterburn, which was eight Engbsh leagues from Newcastle, and there encamped themselves. This day, they made no attack ; but very early on the morrow, their trumpets sounded, and they made ready for the assault, advancing toward the castle, which was tolerably strong, and situated among marshes. They attacked it so long and so unsuccessfuby, that they were fatigued, and therefore sounded a retreat. When they had retired to their quarters, the chiefs held a council how to act ; and the greater part were for decamping on the morrow, without attempt ing more against the castle, to join their countrymen in the neighbourhood of Carbsle. But the earl of Douglas overruled this, by saying, ' In despite of Sir Henry Percy, who the day before yesterday declared he would take from me his pennon, that I con quered by fair deeds of arms before the gates of Newcastle, I wib not depart hence for two or three days ; and we will renew our attack on the castle, for it is to he taken : we shab thus gain double honour, and see if within that time he wbl come for his pennon : if he do, it shall be well defended.' Every one agreed to what Earl Douglas had said ; for it was not only honourable, but he was the principal com mander ; and, from affection to him, they quietly returned to their quarters. They made huts of trees and branches, and strongly fortified themselves. They plaeed their baggage and servants at the entrance of the marsh on the road to Newcastle, and the cattle they drove into the marsh lands. " But to return to Sir Henry and Sir Ralph Percy, who were greatly mortified that the Earl of Douglas should have conquered their pennon in the skirmish before Newcastle. They felt the more for this disgrace, because Sir Henry had not kept his word ; for he had told the earl, that he should never carry his pennon out of England, and this he had explained to the knights who were with him in Newcastle : but when news was brought that the Scottish army did not consist of more than 3000 men, including ab sorts, Sir Henry Percy was greatly rejoiced, and cried out, ' To horse ! to horse ! for by the faith I owe my God, and to my lord and father, I wib seek to recover my pennon, and to beat up their quarters this night,' Such knights * Probably Sir " Aymerus de Athele," who was sheriff of Northumberland in 1381. Ponteland, as part of the Mitford barony, was, at this time, a possession of Sir Thomas Percy, by his marriage with Elizabeth co-heiress of David Strabolgie, Earl of Athol. — Beauties of England. ELSDON PARISH. 93 and squires in Newcastle as learnt this were wibing to be of the party, and made themselves ready. " The bishop of Durham was expected daily at that town ; for he had heard of the irruption of the Scots, and that they were before it, in which were the sons of the earl of Northumberland preparing to offer them combat. The bishop had collected a number of men, and was hastening to their assistance ; but Sir Henry Percy would not wait, for he was accompanied by 600 spears, of knights and squires, and upwards of 8000 infantry, which, he said, would be more than enough to fight the Scots, who were but 300 lances and 2000 others. When they were all assembled, they left Newcastle after dinner, and took the field in good array, following the road the Scots had taken, making for Otterburn, which was eight short leagues distant ; but they could not advance very fast, that their infantry might keep up with them. " As the Scots were supping, some indeed were gone to sleep, for they had laboured hard during the day at the attack of the castle, and intended renewing it in the cool of the morning, the English arrived, and mistook, at their entrance, the huts of the servants for those of their masters. They forced their way into the camp, which was, however, tolerably strong, shouting out, ' Percy ! Percy !' In such cases, you may suppose an alarm is soon given, and it was fortunate for the Scots the Engbsh had made their first attack on their servants' quarters, which checked them some bttle. The Scots, expecting the English, had prepared accordingly; for, while the lords were arming themselves, they ordered a body of their infantry to join their servants and keep up the skirmish. As their men were armed, they formed themselves under the pennons of the three principal barons, who each had his particular appointment. In the mean time the night advanced ; but it was sufficiently light, for the moon shone, and it was the month of August, when the weather is temperate and serene. " When the Scots were quite ready, and properly arrayed, they left their camp in sflence, but did not march to meet the English. They skirted the side of a moun tain which was hard by ; for, during the preceding day, they had well examined the country around, and said among themselves, ' Should the English come to beat up our quarters, we wib do so and so,' and thus settled their plans beforehand, which was the saving of them ; for it is of the greatest advantage to men at arms, when attacked in the night, to have previously arranged their mode of defence, and well to have weighed the chance of victory or defeat. The English had soon overpowered the servants; but, as they advanced into the camp, they found fresh bodies ready to oppose them, and to continue the fight. The Scots, in the mean time, marched along the mountain side, and fell on the enemy's flank quite unexpectedly, shouting their ¦cries. This was a great surprise to the English, who, however, formed themselves in better order, and reinforced that part of their army. The cries of Percy and Douglas resounded on each side, " The battle now raged : great was the pushing of lances, and very many of each party were struck down at the first onset. The English being more numerous, and anxious to defeat the enemy, kept in a compact body, and forced the Scots to retire, who were on the point of being discomfited. The Earl of Douglas, being young, and impatient to gain renown in arms, ordered his banner to advance, shouting, ' Douglas ! Douglas !' Sir Henry and Sir Ralph Percy, indignant for the affront the Earl of Douglas had put on them, by conquering their pennon, and desirous of meet* VOL, ii, 2 A 94 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. ing him, hastened to the place from whence the sounds came, cabing out ' Percy ! Percy !' The two banners met, and many gallant deeds of arms ensued. The Eng lish were in superior strength, and fought so lustily that they drove back the Scots. Sir Patrick Hepburne, and his son of the same name, did honour to their knighthood and country by their gallantry, under the banner of Douglas, which would have been conquered but for the vigorous defence they made ; and this circumstance not only contributes to their personal credit, but the memory of it is continued with honour to their descendants. The knights and squires of either party were anxious to continue the combat with vigour as long as their spears might be capable of holding. Cow ardice was there unknown, and the most splendid courage was every where exhibited by the gallant youths of England and Scotland : they were so closely intermixed, that the archers' bows were useless, and they fought hand to hand, without either battabon giving way. The Scots behaved most valiantly, for the Engbsh were three to one* Froissart does not mean to say that the English did not acquit themselves well ; for they would sooner be slain or made prisoners in battle, than reproached with flight. " As was before mentioned, the two banners of Douglas and Percy met, and the men at arms, under each, exerted themselves by every means to gain the victory ; but the English, at this attack, were so much the stronger, that the Scots were driven back. The Earl of Douglas, who was of a high spirit, seeing his men repulsed, seized a battle-axe with both his hands, like a gallant knight, and, to raby his men, dashed into the midst of his enemies, and gave such blows on ab around him, that no one could withstand them, but all made way for him on every side ; for there were none so well armed with helmets or plates but that they suffered from his battle-axe. Thus he advanced, like another Hector, thinking to recover and conquer the field from his own prowess, until he was met by three spears that were pointed at him : one struck him on the shoulder, another on the stomach, near the beby, and the third entered his thigh. He could never disengage himself from these spears, but was borne to the ground, fighting desperately. From that moment he never rose again. Some of his knights and squires had fobowed him, but not all ; for, though the moon shone, it was rather dark. " The three English lances knew they had struck down some person of considerable rank, but never thought it was Earl Douglas : had they known it, they would have been so rejoiced that their courage would have been redoubled, and the fortune of the day had consequently been determined on their side. The Scots were also ignorant of their loss until the battle was over, otherwise they would certainly, from despair, have been discomfited. As soon as Douglas fell, his head was cleaved with a battle- axe, the spear thrust through his thigh, and the main body of the Engbsh marched over him without paying any attention, not supposing him to be their principal enemy. In another part of the field, the Earl of March and Dunbar combated va liantly ; and the English gave the Scots fub employment who had followed the Earl of Douglas, and had engaged with the two Percies. The Earl of Moray behaved so gabantly in pursuing the English, that they knew not how to resist him. * Hutchinson observes, that in Ridpath's Border History the English army is stated almost three times as numerous as that of the Scots ; but adds, " I know not by what authority this is asserted." The above is the authority, which is certainly unexceptionable. ELSDON PARISH. 95 " The sons of the Earl of Northumberland, Sir Henry and Sir Ralph Percy, who were the leaders of this expedition, behaved themselves like good knights in the combat. Almost a simbar accident befel Sir Ralph as that which happened to the Earl of Douglas ; for, having advanced too far, he was surrounded by the enemy and severely wounded ; and, being out of breath, surrendered himself to a Scotch knight, cabed Sir John Mackirel (Maxwebe), who was under the command, and of the house hold, of the Earl of Moray. When made prisoner, the knight asked him who he was ; for it was dark, and he knew him not. Sir Ralph was so weakened by loss of blood, which was flowing from his wound, that he could scarcely avow himself to be Sir Ralph Percy. ' Well,' replied the knight, ' Sir Ralph, rescued or not, you are my prisoner: my name is Maxwebe.' 'I agree to it,' said Sir Ralph, 'but pay some attention to me ; for I am so desperately wounded, that my drawers and greaves are fub of blood.' Upon this, the Scots knight was very attentive to him ; when sud denly hearing the cry of Moray hard by, and perceiving the earl's banner advancing to him, Sir John addressed himself to the Earl of Moray, and said, ' My lord, I pre sent you with Sir Ralph Percy, as a prisoner : but let good care be taken of him; for he is very badly wounded.' The earl was much pleased at this, and replied, ' Max webe, thou hast web earned thy spurs this day.' He then ordered his men to take every care of Sir Ralph, who bound up and staunched his wounds. The battle stib continued to rage, and no one could say at that moment which side would be the conqueror, for there were very many captures and rescues. * " The young Earl of Douglas had this night performed wonders in arms. When he was struck down there was a great crowd round him ; and he could not raise him self, for the blow on his head was mortal. His men had fobowed him as closely as , they were able ; and there came to him his cousins, Sir James Lindsay, Sir John and Sir Walter Sinclair, with other knights and squires. They found him in a melan choly state, as web as one of his knights, Sir Robert Hart, who had fought by his side the whole of the night, and now lay beside him, covered with fifteen wounds, from lances and other weapons. Sir John Sinclair asked the earl, ' Cousin, how fares it with you ?' ' But so so,' replied he : ' thanks to God, there are but few of my ancestors who have died in chambers or in their beds. I bid you, therefore, revenge my death, for I have but little hope of living, as my heart becomes every minute more faint. Do you, Walter, and Sir John Sinclair, raise up my banner, for certainly it is on the ground, from the death of David Cobemine, that valiant squire, who bore it, and who refused knighthood from my hands this day, though he was equal to the most eminent knights for courage or loyalty, and continue to shout, Douglas ! but do not tell friend or foe whether I am in your company or not ; for, should the enemy know the truth, they wib be greatly rejoiced.' " The two brothers Sinclair, and Sir John Lindsay, obeyed his orders. The banner was raised, and ' Douglas !' shouted. Their men, who had remained behind, hearing the shouts of ' Douglas !' so often repeated, ascended a small eminence, and pushed their lances with such courage that the English were repulsed, and many killed or struck to the ground. The Scots, by thus valiantly driving the enemy beyond the spot where Douglas lay dead (for he had expired on giving his last orders), arrived at his banner, which was borne by Sir John Sinclair. Numbers were continually in creasing, from the repeated shouts of ' Douglas !' and the greater part of the Scots 96 COQUETDALE WARD— S. D. knights and squires were now there. The Earls of Moray and March, with their banners and men, came thither also. When they were all thus collected, perceiving the English retreat, they renewed the battle with greater vigour than before. To say the truth, the English had harder work than the Scots, for they had come by a forced march that evening from Newcastle, to meet the Scots, by which means the greater part were exceedingly fatigued before the combat began. The Scots, on the contrary, had reposed themselves, which was to them of the utmost advantage, as was apparent from the event of the battle. In this last attack, they so completely re pulsed the English, that the latter could never raby again, and the former drove them far beyond where the Earl of Douglas lay on the ground. Sir Henry Percy, during this attack, had the misfortune to fall into the hands of the Lord Montgomery, a very valiant knight of Scotland. They had long fought hand to hand with much valour, and without hindrance from any one ; for there was neither knight nor squire of either party who did not find there his equal to fight with, and all were fully en gaged. In the end, Sir Henry was made prisoner by the Lord Montgomery. " The battle was severely fought on each side ; but such is the fickleness of fortune, that, though the English were a more numerous body of able men at arms, and at the first onset had repulsed the Scots, they in the end lost the field. The pursuit lasted a long time, and to the length of five English mbes.* Had the Scots been in * To Sir James Lindsay there fell a strange chance of war, which we shall give in the manner of Lord Berners : — " I shall shewe you of Sir Mathewe Reedman (an English warrior, and governor of Berwick), who was on horsebacke, to save himselfe, for he alone coude not remedy the mater. At his departynge, Sir James Limsay was nere him, and saw Sir Mathewe departed. And this Sir James, to wyn honour, followed in chase Sir Mathewe Reedman, and came so nere him, that he myght have stryken hym with hys speare, if he had lyst. Then he sayd, ' Ah ! Sir Knyght, tourne ! it is a shame thus to flye ! I am James of Limsay, If ye will nat tourne, I shall strike you on the back with my speare.' Sir Mathewe spoke no worde, but struke his hors with his spurres sorer than he did before. In this maner he chased hym more than three myles. And at last Sir Mathewe Reedman's hors foundered, and fell under hym. Than he stept forthe on the erthe, and drewe oute his swerde, and toke corage to defend himselfe. And the Scotte thoughte to have stryken hym on the brest, but Sir Mathewe Reedman swerved fro the stroke, and the speare point entred into the erthe. Then Sir Mathewe strake asonder the speare wyth his swerde. And whan Sir James Lim say sawe howe he had lost his speare, he cast away the tronchon, and lyghted a-fote, and toke a lytell battell-. axe, that he carryed at his backe, and handled it with his one hand, quickly and delyverly, in the whyche feate Scottes be well experte. And than he set at Sir Mathewe, and he defended himself properly. Thus they journeyed toguyder, one with an axe, and the other with a swerde, a longe season, and no man to lette them. Fynally, Sir James Limsay gave the knyght such strokes, and held him so shorte, that he was putte out of brethe in such wyse, that he yelded himselfe, and sayde, * Sir James Limsay, I yeld me to you.' ' Well,' quod he, ' and I recey ve you, rescue or no rescue.' ' I am content,' quod Reedman, * so ye dele wyth me like a good companyon.' ' I shall not fayle that,' quod Limsay, and so put up his swerde. • Well,' said Reedman, ' what will ye, nowe, that I shall do ? I am your prisoner ; ye have conquered me ; I wolde gladly go agayn to Newcastell, and, within fiftene dayes, I shall come to you into Scotlande, where as ye shall as- signe me.' 'I am content,' quod Limsay ; 'ye shall promyse, by your fay the, to present yourselfe within these foure wekes, at Edinborowe ; and wheresoever ye go, to repute yourselfe my prisoner.' All this Sir Mathewe sware, and promised to fulfil." The warriors parted upon these liberal terms, and Reedman returned to Newcastle. But Lindsay had scarcely ridden a mile, when he met the bishop of Durham, with 500 horse, whom he rode towards, believing ELSDON PARISH. 97 sufficient numbers, none would have escaped death or captivity. When the Scots saw the English were discomfited, and surrendering on all sides, they behaved cour teously to them, saying, ' Sit down and disarm yourselves, for I am your master ;' but never insulted them more than if they had been brothers. " Of all the battles that have been described in history, great arid small, this was the best fought and most severe ; for there was not a man, knight, or squire, who did not acquit himself gabantly, hand to hand with his enemy. The English and Scots (says Froissart) are excebent men at arms, and whenever they meet in battle they do not spare each other ; nor is there any check to their courage so long as their weapons endure. When they have well beaten each other, and one party is victorious, they are so proud of their conquest, that they ransom their prisoners instantly, and in such courteous manner to those who have been taken, that on their departure they return them their thanks. However, when in battle, there is no boy's play between them, nor do they shrink from the combat.* them to be Scottish, until he was too near them to escape. " The byshoppe stepte to him, and sayde, ' Lim say, ye are taken; yelde ye to me.' 'Who be you?' quod Limsay. 'lam,' quod he, ' the byshoppe of Durham.' 'And fro whens come you, sir?' quod Limsay. 'I come fro the battell,' quod the byshoppe, ' but I strucke never a stroke there. I go backe to Newcastell for this night, and ye shall go with me.' ' I may not chose,' quod Limsay, ' sith ye will have it so. I have taken, and I am taken ; suche is the adven tures of armes.' " Lindsay was accordingly conveyed to the bishop's lodgings in Newcastle, and here he was met by his prisoner, Sir Matthew Reedman, who "founde hym in a studye, lying in a windowe, and sayde, ' What ! Sir James Limsay, what make you here ?' Than Sir James came forth of the study to him, and sayde, ' By my fayth, Sir Mathewe, fortune hath brought me hyder ; for, as soon as I was departed fro you, I mete by chaunce the bisshoppe of Durham, to whom I am prisoner, as ye be to me. I beleve ye shall not nede to come to Edenborowe to me to make your fynaunce. I thynk, rather, we shall make an exchange one for another, if the bysshoppe be also contente.' ' Well, sir,' quod Reedman, ' we shall accord ryghte well to- guyder ; ye shall dine this day with me : the byshoppe and 'our men be gone forth to fyght with your men- I can not tell what we shall know at their retourne.' ' I am content to dyne with you,' quod Limsay." * The following are a few of the warriors that distinguished themselves on this memorable occasion, and are principally extracted from the learned notes of Dr. Percy and Mr. Scott, on the old ballads which cele brate the battle of Otterburn : — " The Erie of Huntley, cawte and kene." — The title is a premature designation, but it relates to Sir John of Gordon. The illustrious family of Gordon was originally settled upon the lands of Gordon and Huntley, in the shire of Berwick, and are therefore of Border extraction. King Robert II. granted Sir John a charter ofthe lands of Strathbolgie, forfeited by David, Earl of Athol, in 1376". He was a redoubted warrior, and many of his exploits occur in the annals of this turbulent period. Perhaps, as he was in possession of his extensive northern domains, he brought to the field the northern broad swords, as well as the lances of his eastern Borderers. With his gallant leader, he lost his life in the deadly conflict. " The Graemes." — This clan, always numerous and powerful upon the Border, was of Scottish origin, and deduce the descent of their chieftain, Graeme of Netherby, from John with the bright sword, a son of Malice Graeme, Earl of Monteith, who flourished in the 1 4th century. " The Lindsays light and gay." — The chief of this ancient family, at the date of the battle of Otterburn, was David Lindissay, Lord of Glenesk, afterwards created Earl of Crawford. He was, after the manner of the times, a most accomplished knight. He survived the battle of Otterburn, and the succeeding carnage of Homildon. He was also noted for a retort made to the famous Hotspur. At a march-meeting at Haldane Stank, he happened to observe, that Percy was sheathed in complete armour. " It is for fear of the English, YOL. IJ. 2 B 98 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. " The same evening that Sir Henry and Sir Ralph Percy had left Newcastle, the bishop of Durham, with the remainder of the forces of that district, had arrived there and supped. While seated at table, he considered that he should not act very ho nourably if he remained in the town while his countrymen had taken the field. In consequence, he rose from table, ordered his horses to be saddled, and his trumpets to sound for those who had horses to make themselves ready, and the infantry to be drawn out in array, for quitting the place. When they had ab left, it, they amounted to 7000 men ; that is, 2000 on horseback and 5000 on foot. Although it was now night, they took the road towards Otterburn ; but they had not advanced a league horsemen," said Percy, in explanation; for he was already meditating the insurrection immortalized by Shakespeare. "Ah ! Sir Harry," answered Lindsay, " I have seen you more sorely bestad by Scottish foot men than by English horse." — Wyntown. " Syr ' John' of Augerstonne." — Dr. Percy supposes this personage to be one of the Haggerstones of Hag gerston ; but Mr. Walter Scott is rather inclined to believe the person to have been one of the Rutherfords, barons of Edgestane or Adgerston. Robert Hart and Simon Glendinning were squires of Douglas's body. The chaplain was Richard Lundie, afterwards archdean of Aberdeen. — Godscrqft. Hart, according to Wintown, was a knight : that historian says, no one knew how Douglas fell. The banner of Douglas, upon this memorable occasion, was borne by his natural son, Archibald Douglas, ancestor of the family of Cavers, hereditary sheriffs of Teviotdale, amongst whose archives this glorious re lique is still preserved. The earl, at his onset, is said to have charged his son to defend it to the last drop of his blood. " William de Norbenick" (North Berwick).— Major, speaking of this valiant priest, says, that the chaplain of every Scottish baron fought by his side. Norbenick fought at the side of Douglas with his battle-axe, and for his bravery was promoted to an archdeaconry, and made canon of Aberdeen. There were also other Scottish warriors of distinction present at the battle : these were, the Earls of Mon teith and Buchan ; the Barons of Maxwell and Johnston ; Swinton of that ilk, which, about that period, produced several distinguished warriors; Sir David (or rather Sir Walter) Scott, of Buccleugh, Stewart of Garlies, and Murray of Cockpool. " The gentyll ' Lovelle' ther was slayne, That the Percyes standard bore." In Nicholson this name is spelt Da Lovel. This seems to be the ancient family of Delavel, of Seaton De- lavel, in Northumberland, whose ancestor was one of the twenty-five barons appointed to be guardians of the Magna Charta. " A gentle knight Sir John Fitz-hughe." — Dugdale, in his Baronage, informs us, that John, son of Henry Lord Fitzhugh, was killed at the battle of Otterburn. This was a Northumberland family. " Sir James Harebottel ther was slayne, For hym ther hartes were sore." A daughter of Guischard Harbottle, Esq. married Sir Thomas Percy, Knight, son of Henry V. and father of Thomas, seventh Earl of Northumberland. " Sir Raoul Demeren." — Johnes suspects that by one of those inversions which are incident to a person spelling an unknown name from the pronunciation, Froissart may have written de Meren for de Mener, which would give us the name Manners, well known in northern warfare. Besides these Northumbrian heroes, Heron, Ogle, Carnaby, Grey, Langley, Copeland, Widderington, Lil burn, and Walsingham, are mentioned as being engaged during that busy night. ELSDON PARISH. 9&, from Newcastle before intebigence was brought that the Engbsh were engaged with the Scots. On this, the bishop halted his men ; and several more joined them, out of breath, from the combat. They were asked how the affair went: they repbed, ' Badly, and unfortunately : we are defeated, and here are the Scots close at our heels.' This second intelbgence being worse than the first, gave the alarm to several, who broke from the ranks ; and when, shortly after, crowds came to them flying like men defeated, they were panic-struck, and so frightened with the bad news, that the bishop of Durham could not retain 500 of his men together. Upon which he marched back to Newcastle. " Before the dawn of day, the field was clear of combatants. The Scots had retired within their camp, and had sent scouts and parties of bght horse towards Newcastle and on the adjacent roads, to observe whether the English were collecting in any large bodies, that they might not a second time be surprised. This was wisely done ; for when the bishop of Durham was returned to Newcastle, and had disarmed him self at his lodgings, he was very melancholy at the unfortunate news he had heard, that his cousins, the sons of the Earl of Northumberland, and all the knights who had followed them, were either taken or slain. He sent for ab the knights and squires at the time in Newcastle, and demanded if they would suffer things to remain in their present state, for that they would be disgraced should they return without ever seeing their enemies. They held a council, and determined to arm themselves by sunrise, and to march horse and foot after the Scots to Otterburn, and offer them battle. This resolution was published throughout the town, and the trumpets sounded at the ap pointed hour. The whole army made themselves ready, and were drawn up before the bridge. About sun-rise they left Newcastle, through the gate leading to Berwick, and fobowed the road to Otterburne. They amounted in the whole, including horse and foot, to 10,000 men. " They had not advanced two leagues before it was signified to the Scots, that the bishop of Durham had rallied his troops, and was on his march to give them battle. This was bkewise confirmed by their -scouts, who brought the same intebigence. The barons- and knights of Scotland, on being informed of the bishop's approach with 10,000 men, held a council, whether to march away or abide the event. On mature consideration, they resolved on the latter, from the difficulty of finding so strong a position to defend themselves and guard their prisoners, of whom they had many. These they could not carry away with them, on account of the wounded, nor were they wibing to leave them behind. They formed themselves in a strong body, and had fortified their camp in such a manner that it could be entered by only one pass. They then made their prisoners swear, that, rescued or not, they would acknowledge themselves prisoners. When this was ab done, they ordered their minstrels to play as merrily as they could. The Scots have a custom, when assembled in arms, for those who are on foot to be web dressed, each having a large horn slung round his neck, in the manner of hunters, and when they blow all together, the horns being of different sizes, the noise is so great that it may be heard four miles off, to the great dismay of their enemies and their own debght. The Scotch commanders ordered this sort of music now to be played. " The bishop of Durham, with his banner, had scarcely approached within a league of the Scots, when they began to play such a concert that it seemed as if ab the devbs 100 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. in heb had come thither to join in the noise, so that those of the Engbsh who had never before heard such, were much frightened. This concert lasted a considerable time, and then ceased. After a pause, when they thought the English were within half a league, they recommenced it, continuing it as long as before, when it again ceased. The bishop, however, kept advancing with his men in battle-array untb they came within sight of the enemy, two bow-shots off: the Scots then began to play louder than before, and for a longer time, during which the bishop examined with surprise how well they had chosen their encampment, and strengthened it to their advantage. Some knights held a council how they should act, and it seemed that, after much deliberation, they thought it not advisable to risk an attack, for there were greater chances of loss than gain, but determined to return again to Newcastle. " The Scots, perceiving the English were retreating, and that there was no appear ance of any battle, retired within their camp to refresh themselves with meat and liquor. They then made preparations for departure : but because Sir Ralph Percy had been dangerously wounded, he begged of his master to allow him to return to Newcastle. The Earl of Moray, under whose banner he had been taken, readily assented to this request, and had a btter prepared for him. In a similar manner, se veral knights and squires obtained their liberty, fixing on a time to return in person to those who had captured them, or to send the amount of their ransoms* " At this battle, which Avas fought on the 19th day of August, 1388, there were taken and left dead on the field, on the side of the English, one thousand and forty- men of ab descriptions ; in the pursuit, eighteen hundred and forty, and more than one thousand wounded. Of the Scots, there were only about one hundred slain, and two hundred made prisoners. After every thing was properly arranged, the Scots set fire to their huts, and began their march towards Melros, carrying with them the dead body of Earl Douglas, together with Sir Henry Percy and upwards of forty English knights." To this exact and minute relation little more can be added. This dreadful contest took place by moon-light, a season when battle would have redoubled horrors, espe cially where each combatant met his opponent in trial of skib and strength. This mode of fighting must have rendered the confusion of the conflict dreadful beyond description. Douglas was ambitious of laurels, and the impetuous Hotspur was en raged at the disgrace he had experienced under the walls of Newcastle. Both were equaby valiant and generous, and this famous night added to the lustre of their names. The ground on which this memorable engagement took place still retains the name of Battle-riggs. A cross, erroneously termed Percy's Cross, has been erected upon the spot where the gallant Earl of Douglas is supposed to have fallen. The entrench ments are still discernible ; and the number of tumuli scattered over the adjoining ground mark to future ages the slaughter made there. Mr. Horsley, in a letter to R. Gale, Esq. December 13, 1729, describes a cairn opened near Otterburn about that time. It was computed to contain about 60 tons of loose stones, beneath which was discovered a large stone, rough and undressed, laid upon the ground, in form of a grave-stone, with smaller stones wedged in between it * The ransoms were estimated at 200,000 francs. Hotspur, for his ransom, built the castle of Penoon, in Ayrshire, belonging to the family of Montgomery, now Earls of Eglintoun. ELSDON PARISH. 101 and the ground, wherever there were any interstices. When this was taken off, there appeared in the ground a cavity in form of a grave, about two yards long, and four feet broad at the top : about a foot and a half deep was some very fine mould ; next to that some ashes laid in fine white sand ; the sand was above two feet thick, the whole depth of the cavity or grave being near four feet. There were mixed with the ashes what were taken for small pieces of burnt wood, like charcoal. Mr. Hor sley does not state to what people he supposes this ancient monument ought to be attributed: but the formation of the sepulchre, and the cairn with which it was covered, clearly indicate the people to which it belonged. Otterburn Castle, which was so gallantly defended against Douglas, appears to have been a strong erection, and in a favourable situation for sustaining hostile attacks. The manor and vbla of Otterburn were part of the estate of the noble family of Um franville, and belonged to the crown 10 queen Elizabeth. The present mansion- house is founded upon the scite of the old castle. John Hab, Esq. whose ancestors had been long seated here, was a magistrate, and captain of a train-band in queen Anne's time. He engaged in the rebebion in 1715, was taken prisoner at Preston in Lancashire, and executed at Tyburn for high treason, July 13, 1716.* His estates being forfeited, they were purchased by Gabriel Hall, Esq. of Catcleugh, from whose son, Reynold, they passed by wib in 1745 to Robert Ebison, of Newcastle, gentleman, and from him to his son, Henry Ebison, Esq, of Whitehaven, in whose life-time they were purchased by Mr. James Storey, of North Shields, who built the vibage ; and lastly, after Mr. Storey's death, they were sold, under a decree of the court of chan cery. The castle, manor, and demesne lands, were bought by James Ellis, Esq. sob- citor, of Newcastle, who married Rachel, only daughter of Mr. Gallon, of that town, and who now resides at Otterburn. The vibage and part of the lands on the opposite side of the Otter were purchased by the late John Davidson, Esq. of Newcastle, and are now the property of his son, John, who has a convenient residence here for the purpose of enjoying rural sports. There is an excellent fulhng-mib, with carding * When brought to London and indicted, for having joined, aided, and abetted the rebels, two witnesses deposed that he was seen at different places with the rebels : but in his defence he said, that having been at a meeting of the justices at Plainfield, he had lodged at a friend's house, and that on the following day, while he was stooping on his horse's neck, to screen himself from the tempestuous weather, himself and his servant were surrounded by the rebels, who forced them away ; and that he was unarmed, and had only seven shil lings and sixpence in his possession. Though this circumstance was sworn to by Mr. Hall's servant, yet the court, in the charge to the jury, observed, that " if a man was seen with rebels, yet if it appeared that he had frequent opportunities of escaping, and did not do it, but continued by his presence to abet and comfort them, it was treason within the meaning of the law." Now, as it appeared in evidence that Mr. Hall had liberty to ride out when he pleased, and did not seem to be restrained, the jury found him guilty ; and when the court passed sentence on him, he said, " God's will be done." The Rev. Robert Patten, minister of Allandale, who was a chaplain to the Northumberland rebels, and who saved his life by being an evidence against his friends, says, with the most cold-blooded nonchalence, " I shall add a story of William Shaftoe, of Bavington, when in Newgate with Mr. John Hall, afterwards executed, which has something diverting in it. He says seriously to Mr. Hall, ' Cousin Jack, I am thinking upon what is told us, that God will visit the sins of the fathers unto the third and fourth generation : I am ef opinion that it is so with us ; for your grandfather and my grandfather got most of their estates as seques-* trators, and now we must lose them again for being rebels.'" — Patten's Hist, ofthe Reb. p. 134. YOL. II. 2 C 102 COQUETDALE WARD— S. D. machinery, on Mr. Ebis' estate. Gersons-jield, near this place, clearly derives its name from the Saxon gaers, grass. Indeed, the provincial pronunciation of grass in North umberland is still the pure Saxon, girs, or gaers. Elishaw. — This place is seated near the junction of Durtre* Burn and the Reed, where the latter was crossed by the Watling-street, and is distant nearly three miles north by west from Otterburn. Hedley says, in the Archa2ologia Mlvma, that Bishop Gibson, in his appendix to the Saxon Chronicle, gives, as the most probable etymon of Ely, in Cambridgeshire, "the British helig, or elig, willows, because that marshy region formerly abounded hi them. About the time of the Norman con quest, or soon after, the g was often melted into y or i, and the aspirate was frequently dropped. Hence helig would, by these mutations, be ely or eli, which affords a likely enough derivation of Elishaw, i. e. the willow wood. It is a remarkable confirmation of this etymology, that there are yet growing here a few of the largest willow trees to be met with, perhaps, in the north of England." At this place are the traces of a bridge, and of the foundations of several large buildings. Here was an hospital and a chapel, valued in the Liber Regis at 13*. 4d. a year; but few traces of them at present remain. Elishaw was formerly noted for being the scene of many a merry meeting and night of revelry ; the favourite rendezvous of the " vagrant train ;"f the place of meeting for the rustic racers ; and the hospitable residence of the late Lord Cranstoun, of convivial memory. But these days are gone, and only one solitary house indicates the spot where merry Elishaw stood. It is now the property of Lord Redesdale. Moivkridge stands near the Reed, south-east from Otterburn, and about two mbes south-west from Elsdon. It is the property of Robert de Lisle, Esq. and is sur rounded with fine grazing ground, which formerly belonged to a rebgious house seated here. South from Monkridge, and on the extremity of the parish, is a lofty tract of land called Ottercops. " In old records," says Mr. Hedley, " it is uniformly * Durtre (which is vulgarly written Dultree) is a pure Celtic compound, from dur, water, and tre, a dwell ing ; signifying the dwelling at the water. The whole ofthe name, Durtre, was in time imposed upon what was at first only the dur, or rivulet ; and the Saxon burn was added by a subsequent people. t The pipes of both Willie and Jamie Allan were often sounded amongst the Gypsy tribe at Elishaw. A pleasing American writer speaks of this roving crew in these terms : — " The English, who are accustomed to them from childhood, and often suffer from their petty depredations, consider them as mere nuisances • but I have been very much struck with their peculiarities. I like to behold their clear olive complexions, their romantic black eyes, their raven locks, their lithe slender figures, and to hear them, in low silver tones' deal ing forth magnificent promises of honours and estates, of world's wealth, and ladies* love. Their mode of life, too, has something in it very fanciful and picturesque. They are the free denizens of nature, and main tain a primitive independence, in spite of law and gospel ; of county gaols and country magistrates. It is curious to see this obstinate adherence to the wild unsettled habits of savage life transmitted from generation to generation, and preserved in the midst of one of the most cultivated, populous, and systematic countries in the world. * * * * They are amongst the last traces, in these matter-of-fact days, of the motley popu lation of former times; and are whimsically associated in my mind with fairies and witches, Robin Good Fellow, Robin Hood, and the other fantastical personages of poetry."— Bracebridge Hall, vol. il p. 43 ELSDON PARISH. 103 written Altirtopps, or Altircops, which gives us a name, formed probably by different people, and in different eras. The two first sybables are purely British, from allt, a cliff, a height, or hill, and fir, land, country. A/fir is, therefore, literally, the high or hib country, which is perfectly descriptive of its situation. The Saxons, however, seldom permitted a British name to remain quite in its original state, and had a strong fancy of adding to it, and that often pleonasticaby. In this instance they added their coppe, which signifies the top of a hill, thus making the whole name, Altir-copps, or the hill country tops. Henry III. 52, Altirtoppes forfeited by Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicester, and given by the king to his son Edmund. — The king complains that it is kept wrongfuby by Gbbert de Umfrevibe." Troughend is situated on the west side of the river Reed, 4^ miles west from Elsdon. It was the seat of the very ancient family of the Reeds, who have derived their names from the adjoining river. This family affirm they have written grants of land, dated above a century and a half before the Conquest ! This estate, which was possessed by John Reed, Esq. in the reigns of king Edward VI. queen Mary, and in the 10th queen Elizabeth, was sold by Mr. Eltrington Reed to the late Christopher Reed, Esq. of Chipchase. Previous to this transfer, Troughend had been much im proved by enclosures and planting.* Garretsheels, which adjoins Troughend on the north, is by Mr. Hedley supposed to mean the sheetings of Gerard. In the 10th of Edward I. Gerardsheels is claimed by Gbbert de Umfranvibe, as part of his possessions in Redesdale. The sirname Garrett is inferred to be a corruption of Gerard. A little further up the river is Rattenrow, the property of John Davidson, Esq. The above writer states, that " the historian of the parish of Habfax, in considering the etymology of a place there of a similar appebation, seems to give way to the opinion of Stukeley, who, in his account of Richard of Cirencester, says this name is of high antiquity, and relates to panegyres or fairs. And a writer in the Archaeologia observes, Rattenraw is a name of great antiquity, which the learned Camden deduces from the German freebooters, or hire- bng auxiliaries : ' rotten, or rotteren, to muster,' says he ; ' hence rot maister, a corpo ral.' Neither appearance, tradition, nor history, encourages us, however, to assign any extraordinary antiquity to places of this denomination in this county ; and I would derive them from raw, row, a rank, derived from the Anglo-Saxon raewa, a * Mr. R. Roxby, of Newcastle, in 1809, published a poem, entitled, " The Lay of the Reedwater Minstrel," descriptive of the wild and impressive scenery of Redesdale, and containing allusions to the legendary tales of the inhabitants. The origin of the ill-blood which long existed between the Reeds and the Halls of Redes dale, is thus related in an illustrative note : — " The particulars of the traditional story of Parcy Reed of Troughend, and the Halls of Girsonsfield, the author had from a descendant of the family of Reed. From his account it appears, that Percival Reed, Esquire, a Keeper of Redesdale, was betrayed by the Halls (hence denominated the false-hearted Ha'sJ to a band of moss-troopers of the name of Crosier, who slew him at Batinghope, near the source of the Reed. The Halls were, after the murder of Parcy Reed, held in such universal abhorrence and contempt, by the inhabitants of Redesdale, for their cowardly and treacherous be haviour, that they were obliged to leave the country." The Bard of Redesdale, in another part, mentions the traditional tale of the ghost of Parcy Reed haunting Pringle-haugh. The Reeds of Prendick are direct de scendants of the Troughend family. 104 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. series, and ton or tun, signifying the houses in a row. Row has afterwards been pleo- nasticaby added." Rochester is situated in Watling-street, about 8 mbes north-west from Elsdon, above 9 miles north of Risingham, and 20 of the Wall. This was the capital, or chief fortress, of the Ottadini ; and afterwards became a distin guished station of the Romans, by whom it was cabed Bre- D- R- s- menium. That this is the Bremenium of Ptolemy and the dvpl n. explor. Itinerary, is clearly proved by the annexed inscription, Bremen, aram. found here by Camden, and at present in Trinity College. institvervnt It is read thus : — Dece Romce sacrum Duplares Numeri ex- N. eivs c caep ploratorum Bremenii Aram instituerunt Numini ejus Caio charitino trie Ceepione Charitino Tribuno votum solverunt libenter merito. v. s. L. M. This altar then is sacred to the goddess Rome (for Rome was made a goddess), and erected by a Duplares of a detachment of Expiloratores, or scouts, at Bremenium, under the command of Caius Caepio Charitinus, the tribune. Richard numbers Bremenium among the twelve stipendiary cities in Britain. It is conjectured to have obtained this name from being Castrum in Rupe, which is the true description of its scite, it being placed on the brow of a steep and rocky hill ; or rather, as Camden cabs it, a rocky mountain, commanding the pass of Redesdale. On every hand the prospect is horrible, except the narrow vabey, watered by the Reed, which is looked down upon from this rugged eminence. Camden, two centu ries ago, thus describes the surrounding country : — " There are hibs hard by so boggy, and standing with water on their summits, that no horsemen are able to ride through them." And again, " Mountainous, desert, and impassible, such as this tract is." The same writer observes, " That Ptolemy, speaking of Bremenium, places it in this very scite, and part of the country ; and from thence Antonine begins his first jour ney in Britain, as from the utmost limit of the Roman province at that time. When the barbarous nations had broken through the wall of Antoninus Pius, and would in consequence hurry over and lay waste all the country before them, the wall of Ha drian lying neglected to the time of Severus, we may necessarily admit that this sta tion was regarded as the limit of the empire, from whence the old Itinerary, which bears the title of Antonine's, began, viz. a Limitis. The construction given it, to imply a Vallo, is only a gloss put on it by the transcriber." This station was esteemed the strongest the Romans had in the north. It is de fended by three ramparts of earth, and a wall seven feet thick, and fancifully che quered with ashlar work, of different colours : part of these walls, on the west and south-west, still remain, but hidden on each side with heaps of ruins. The hypocaust, mentioned by Hutchinson, was within the walls, at the north-east compartment : it was built upon large flat stones, upon which stood rows of short pillars, bearing a roof of thin flat stones, then a layer of smah stones, filled up, and levelled with river sand, and then covered over with strong bath-plaster, three or four inches thick. The conduits to it were very perfect. Many urns have been found within the wabs about the north-west corner ; and there is a small barrow in the field west of the sta tion. The two annexed inscriptions are on oblong stones : the first of them, described ELSDON PARISH. 105 by Horsley, who had it in his possession ; the deo invicto soli soc second explained by Dr. Taylor, in the Phbo- sacrvm. pro salvte et sophical Transactions, in 1744, and at present incolvmitate. imp. caes in the library at Durham. The former Mr. m. avreli antonini pii felic. Horsley read, Deo invicto soli socio sacrum, avg l. caecilivs optatvs &c. tribunis cohortis primce Vardulorum cum trib. coh. i. vardvl. cvm. con... consecraneis votum deo templum a solo extruc- craneis votvm. deo turn; and remarks concerning it, that "the a solo, extrvct. Antoninus, for whose safety this was vowed, must have been either Commodus or Cara- imp. caes. m. avrelio calla : the inscription was erected by L. Casci- severo antonino bus Optatus, tribune of the first cohort of the pio felici et parthic Varduli, a people of Hispania Citerior, situ- max. brit. max. germ. ated not far from the west end of the Pyrae- max. pontifici maxim. nean mountains." — " The ' CVM CON,' I trib. potest, xviii. imp. il read," says Mr. Gale, " with the beginning of cos. iiii. procos p. p. coh. i. the seventh bne, cum consecraneis. The word fida. vardvl. creq. ano. consecranei is not very common, but we have nnana fecit svb cvro. t CO... it in Capitobnus (Gord. c. 14), ' Sacrati com- leg. xx. gr. militones, imo etiam consecranei, i. e. ejusdem sacramenti militaris participes,' than which nothing can be more apposite." The latter inscription should be read, Imperatori Caesari, <%e. proconsuli patri patriae cohorts prima fida Vardulorum civium Romanorum equitata milliaria Antoniniana fecit sub cura tribuni collegii vicesimorum grate. From which it appears that the consecranei of this place were a college, or guild of artificers, consisting of twenty persons. Messrs. Hodgson and Laird copied the inscriptions of three other very beautiful and perfect altars,* found within this station, in the ruins of a large building, on the west side of the south gate. These interesting remains are at Campville. One of the altars is dedicated by the same tribune as that inscribed " Deo invicto" and fully establishes the existence of a cobege, or guild, in this stipendiary city. The other two altars, one of which has been erected " by a decree of the senate," are dedicated to Minerva. The two latter, from their form, and having no excavation on the top for incense, may be considered as pedestals to the statue of the goddess to whom they are dedicated. There are also several funeral inscriptions, and various figures in bas- relief, at Camp vibe, brought from this place ; and amongst the rest, a fragment, from which bttle more can be gathered, than that it has been erected in memory of some work done by the first cohort of Vardubans, called fida. The next inscription is on an altar, which was dug up, with several coins, in Hor- sley's time, near the north-west corner of the station, silvano p...ntheo pro sal... rvfin trib et lvcillae eivs lib. cos. v. s. l. m. i. e. Silvano Pantheo pro salute Rufini tribuni et Lucilles (uxoris) ejus Eutychus libertus consulis, &c. This altar has been erected for the safety of Rufinus the tribune, and his wife Luciba, by Eutychus, a freedman of the consul. It is common now to give the name Pantheus to the figure of any god who has the symbols of other gods joined with his own. * 1. DEAE MI jEEVAE ET GENIO. COL LEG L. OECL OPTATVS TEIB V. S. L. M. — 2. DE* SANCTiE MI NERVAE FLAVIVS SE VERINVS TIUBAKAM DEDIT. — 3. DEAE MI NEBVE IVL CARANIVS S. C. VOL. 11, 2 D 106 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. The Rev. Thomas Hope, a Presbyterian minister, who resides within the area of the station, has two broken inscriptions in his possession ; and the following curious, but imperfect inscription, was, in 1810, copied by the gentlemen mentioned above from a stone in a field opposite the north-east corner of the station : — i c ...F AVG. LVS N ANOR ETEM COMPT B R BV COR SVB CVRVM IL MAINIAE ET ALIMENT SVB CVR OPERVM PVBL IVLIA LVCILLA C. F MARITO BM VIX AN XLVIII M. V. D. XXV. The neighbourhood of the capital city of such a warbke nation as the Ottadini must have been the scene of many sanguinary conflicts, which are now beyond the reach of record. But the adjoining moors stib present many of the rude funeral monuments of the ancient Britons, fraught with the impressive story of days long past.. On a sheep-walk east of Rochester is a mass of loose stones, twelve feet high, and one hun dred and eighty feet in diameter. It is cabed the Hare Cairn, which 'signifies the " army's tomb." A similar monument near High Carricks has been used in- building a kiln. In its centre was a cavity, formed by four stones set on edge, and covered with one about eight feet long and five broad. Birdhope Crag is situated near Featherwood Burn, on the north side of the Reed, a little above Rochester, where is a Presbyterian meeting-house, which is tolerably web attended. Here are the traces of two large square intrenchments, with two openings on every side, each defended by an outward mole of an oblong form, at the distance of six yards from the aperture. Bereness, or Byrness, written also Buryness, is situated on the north side of the Reed, about five miles north-west from Rochester. According to Mr. Wallis, on an eminence here were the remains of a British temple, the stones numerous, of vari ous sizes, and in circular order. Subsequent travebers have been unable to discover these ancient remains ; but the ruins of an old chapel long covered the ground, and it is well known that the sacred temples of the Druids often became the scites of Christian churches. The chapel was rebuilt by voluntary subscription in 1793, when it was endowed with £1750; whereof £1200 was given by the Rev. L. Dutens, rector of Elsdon, £400 by the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, and £ 150 by the subscribers to the edifice. About a mile south-east from this chapel, in a heathy moor, stands the Tod-Law, which means the Fox Hill. On the top of this lull, which is now covered with a plan tation, are three large stones, in a triangular order, twelve feet distant from each other, and each as many feet in diameter. Mr. Wallis presumes these were monuments erected in memory of the like number of valiant chieftains slain in battle. On this Mr. Hutchinson remarks, that it was the custom of the Danes, at the solemn investi- ELSDON PARISH. 107 ture of their kings, or men of chief authority, to erect monuments of this nature ; and to that people it is most reasonable we should attribute such erections. But the custom of commemorating important events by similar natural pillars existed in the very first ages of society, and was more probably practised by the same early Britons that raised the temples, the logans, the cromlechs, the cairns, and other rude monu ments of unhewn stones, than by the roving pirates of Denmark. Nor does it appear that the Scandinavian tribes had a peculiar custom of recording the memory of an elec tion by the erection of three stones. Xenophon takes notice, that when the three eu nuchs of Abradates were buried, there were three pillars erected. The number three has also respect to the three primary idols ; and this seems to be the obvious and natural reason for erecting this number of stones. The three huge upright stones cabed the Devil's Quoits, in Oxfordshire, and which Dr. Plott thinks are three British deities, may probably be of this kind. There is also at Trelech, in Monmouthshire, a similar monument of three massy high stones, which are thought to be representatives of the fanciful gods of the primitive inhabitants. Ramshope stands on the north side of the Reed, two miles above Bereness. This place, which gives name to an extra-parochial district, contains at present but one dwehing house. The lands of Catcleugh and Chattlehope, in this wild country, are the property of his Grace the Duke of Northumberland.* Chattlehope Burn, which descends from the highlands south of the Reed, at one place forms a cataract 75 feet in height:' The stream does not dash down perpendicularly, being interrupted near the middle by a projection of the rock, from whence sliding graduaby some feet, it fabs a second time. The precipices all around are rude and barren, and there are no picturesque beauties in the whole scene. Carter-Fell, from the Celtic Cart, signifying a height or hill, is the dividing ridge between England and Scotland. It is 1602 feet above the level of the sea. The Reed issues from its southern decbvity ; and the " silver Jed," on leaving its heights, rushes through a rocky channel and woody vales, and winds round the shire town to which it gives name. The Redeswire, which also forms a boundary to this parish, is the lower and connecting ridge between the Carter-Fell on the west, and the Hound- Law on the east. Its name is descriptive of its situation ; for the Anglo-Saxon swire signifies primarily a neck, and secondarily the hobow or depression of a moun tain, connecting higher mountains or hills on each side of it. The Redeswire was the scene of a skirmish, which happened upon the 7th of June, 1575, at one of the meetings held by the Wardens of the Marches, for arrangements necessary upon the Borders. Sir John Carmichael was the Scottish Warden, and Sb John Forster held that office on the Engbsh Middle March. In the course of the day, which was employed, as usual, in redressing wrongs, a bbl, or indictment, at the instance of a Scottish complainer, was fouled (i. e. found a true bill) against one Farn- stein, a notorious English freebooter. Forster abeged that he had fled from justice. Carmichael, considering this as a pretext to avoid making compensation for the felony, * It may be proper to remark, that Car rick-bushes, in this parish, belongs to the poor of Whalton ; and West Todd Holes, to the poor of Rothbury. William Ord, and Raleigh Trevelyan, Esqrs. are considerable proprietors in Redesdale. 108 COQUETDALE WARD.— S. D. bade him " play fair," to which the English Warden retorted, by some injurious ex pressions respecting Carmichael's family, and gave other open signs of resentment. His retinue, chiefly men of Redesdale and Tynedale, the most-ferocious of the English Borderers, glad of any pretext for a quarrel, discharged a flight of arrows among the Scots. A warm conflict ensued, in which Carmichael being beat down and made prisoner, success seemed at first to incline to the English side ; tib the Tynedale men, throwing themselves too greedily upon the plunder, feb into disorder, and a body of Jedburgh citizens arriving at that instant, the skirmish terminated in a complete victory on the part of the Scots, who took prisoners the English Warden, James Ogle, Cuthbert Collingwood, Francis Russel, son to the Earl of Bedford, and son-in- law to Forster, some of the Fenwicks, and several other Border chiefs. They were sent to the Earl of Morton, then regent, who detained them at Dalkeith for some days, till the heat of then resentment was abated ; which prudent precaution pre vented a war betwixt the two kingdoms. He then dismissed them with great ex pressions of regard, and, to satisfy queen Elizabeth, sent up Carmichael to York, whence he was soon honourably dismissed. The particulars of this affray are mi nutely related in the old ballad called " The Battle of Reid Squair." Chew-Green. — This Roman camp is situated at the northern extremity of Elsdon parish, near the Border, and not far from the source of the river Coquet. The form, extent, and relative situation, of this curious and noble monument of Roman art, may be accurately understood from the annexed engraving. As the plough has never entered the ground here, all the lines are not only visible, but in a high state of pre servation. The country on three sides of Chew-Green is mountainous, and entirely covered with heath ; but the hill on which the encampment is formed is fine green sward, which, contrasted with the dark sombrous hue of the adjoining mountains, gives relief to the eye in the midst of dreary wastes. General Roy supposes this station to have been occupied by Agricola's army on its march into North Britain, and to have been that termed " Fines" in the fobowing Iter: — 1st. Colonia, Channelkirk, vulg. Ginglekirk. — 2d. Trimontiuvi vibage, Ebdon, near Ebdon Hibs. — 3d. Coria, near Jedburgh. — 4th. Fines, Chew-Green, head of the Coquet, seven miles from — 5th. Bremenium, Rochester, on the river Reed, about nine miles from — 6th. Habitancum, Risingham, about fifteen miles from — 7th. Corstopi- Hum, Corbridge. The old Roman road, before it reaches Chew-Green, is called Gammels-path, mean ing the old road, from the Danish gammel, old. The word Fell, added to Carter, is another name imposed upon the neighbouring heights by the Danish invaders. MORPETH WARD. —••??*•«$*•«??¦••>- )HIS Ward is bounded on the north by Coquetdale Ward, on the east by the German Ocean, on the west by Tindale Ward, and on the south by Bedlingtonshire and Castle Ward. It is upon an average 16^ miles in length from east to west, and 9 mbes in breadth from north to south. The sob is, in general, rich, strong, and productive. Upwards of 24,000 acres are annuaby turned over by the plough, besides about 5000 acres of excebent meadow lands. It contains several vibages and hamlets; and single farmsteads are scattered over every part of the country. The principal town is Mor peth, which stands on the southern extremity of the Ward. EAST DIVISION. WARKWORTH PARISH. This is one of the largest, most fertbe, and best cultivated parishes in the county. It extends about 7^ miles from north to south, and 5 mbes from east to west ; and contains 18 townships, 424 inhabited houses, and 2365 inhabitants. The parish is divided by the river Coquet into two unequal parts. The northern part, which is in Coquetdale Ward, comprizes six townships, The southern and largest division is mostly distinguished by a strong clayey sob, which produces excebent crops of wheat, beans, and pease. The farmers studiously practise those rules of good husbandry which keep the land in the best order, and insure crops of the greatest value. All this district abounds with excellent coal and freestone ; and at Acklington there is a valuable whinstone dyke, which is advantageously used in repairing the roads. Richard Clutterbuck left a rent-charge of £30 to the poor widows of this parish. Francis Forster and an individual unknown each bequeathed one pound annuaby to the poor; but both these charities have been lost. Mrs. Cook left £50, the interest of which was to be appbed for the instruction of five poor children ; but this bequest vol. ii. — (26) 2 E 110 MORPETH WARD.— E. D. was also neglected, and finally the payment of the interest was refused. A school-house was built nearly a century ago by a Mr. Lawson, who presented it to the parish. At present there are four schools in Warkworth, one of which is supported by subscrip tion, and conducted according to the modern system. It is at present in contempla tion to erect a new and commodious school-room, for which his grace the Duke of Northumberland has granted an eligible scite. There is likewise a Sunday-school, well attended, and three day-schools in the villages of Acklington, Amble, and Broomhill. Warkworth is pleasantly seated on the south side of the river Coquet, about a mile from the sea ; and is distant 7 miles south-east from Alnwick, 15 mbes north-east from Morpeth, and 30 miles north from Shields. It consists of three streets, in which are several good modern-built houses, one of which has been lately erected by John Forster, Esq. of London, a native of Warkworth. The entrance-hab is neatly laid with marble from Brandenburgh House, the residence of the late queen Caroline. The principal street leads from the castle down a steep hib to the cross, where the two others join it ; the one leading from the bridge, and the other from the church. Warkworth contains 100 houses and 600 inhabitants, including many freeholders. It has a market* on Thursdays ; but it has long ceased to be kept, except for butchers' meat. There is an annual fair held here, on the Thursday before the 23d of Novem ber, for fat cattle and winter stock, but chiefly for swine. Provisions of ab kinds are plentiful and cheap, espeeiaby flesh ; and the shops are well furnished with ab articles in common request. Here is a brewery, carried on to a considerable extent ; and there are three good inns and four pubbc houses. The church, which is dedicated to St. Lawrence, stands on the banks of the river, at the bottom of the town. It is an elegant, spacious structure, and is ornamented with a handsome spire, upwards of 100 feet high, in the tower of which is a large clock. It is of great antiquity, and its erection has been ascribed to Ceolwulph, king of Northumberland, who endowed Lindisfarn with the vblages of Brainshaugh and Warkworth, together with the ad vowson of the church which he built there. But the oldest parts of the present church have evidently been built at a more modern period. The north wab, the chan cel, and a considerable part of the tower are of ancient architecture. They are distin guished from the modern part, which was probably built aftei- the Percys acquired Warkworth, by the circular doors and windows, supported by plain Saxon columns, both in the body of the church and in the chancel. When this part was erected, there were no side aisles, and the roof was sloping. At some future period the wabs have been raised, the roof made flat, and the south aisle added, in a different style of architecture. The columns that support this aisle are light and lofty, and the windows large. It is kept very neat, and is, certainly, one of the handsomest parish churches in the county. Within it, at the south-west end, by the entrance, is the funeral monument and effigies of * King John granted to Robert, son of Roger Fitz-Richard, first baron of Warkworth, the privilege of a weekly market, to be kept at New-town, near Warkworth; and an annual fair, to continue for three days; viz. the even and the day of St. Lawrence, and the morrow of that day. In 7 king Henry III. John Fitzl Robert obtained licence, that the market, which had usually been kept upon the Sunday at his manor of Warkworth, should be held on the Wednesday every week.— Dugd. Baron, vol. i. p. 107. WARKWORTH PARISH. Ill a knight templer, with this inscription : — " the effigies of sir hugh de morwick, avho gave the common to this town of warkworth." A chantry was found ed in Warkworth by Nicholas de Farnham, bishop of Durham, in the reign of Henry III. He appropriated the church of Branxton for the maintenance there of two Be nedictine monks, from Durham. It was in ruins in the time of queen Elizabeth ; but an elderly lady in Warkworth remembered this building 80 years ago, at which time the walls were three or four feet high. The foundations are stbl to be seen, about 25 yards eastward from the church-yard, in a lane that leads towards the bridge. The hving is a vicarage in the gift of the bishop of Carlisle, and is valued in the king's books at £18, 5*. 7d.* In 1822, the present vicar built an elegant and com modious house near the west end of the church.f The Presbyterians lately erected a neat meeting-house here. At the north end of the town is a stately stone bridge, built over the Coquet, con sisting of two spacious arches. In the middle stands a stone pibar, with the arms of Percy sculptured upon it ; and at the south end is a square tower, with an archway, through which the road passes. This has formerly been defended by an iron gate. It was thoroughly repaired some years ago, and it wbl probably remain an ornament to the town for ages to come4 Warkworth is an ancient borough, by prescription ; and the Duke of Northumber land holds a court-leet here every year, on the first Wednesday of October. There are 77 burgage tenures, or freeholds, which are held of his grace by a certain esta blished rent. There is no date or record to ascertain when this borough was erected ; but it must have been in the time of the Saxons, and probably about the period when king Ceolwulph built the church. Blackstone, in speaking of these ancient tenures, says, " These seem to have withstood the shock of the Norman encroachments, princi- paby on account of their insignificancy, which made it not worth whbe- to compel them to an alteration of tenure ; as a hundred of them, put together, would scarce have amounted to a knight's fee. Besides, the owners of them being chiefly artificers and persons engaged in trade, could not, with any tolerable propriety, be put on such a military establishment as the tenure of chivaby was." The chief officer in the bo rough is a port-reeve, or borough-reeve, now generaby styled mayor. He is chosen, by the free burgesses, on the morning of the first Wednesday of October, and is im mediately afterwards sworn into office at the court-leet. His duty is, to prevent encroachments on the common, to summon petty offenders to the court, and to cobect and disburse the revenues of the town. The other officers of this ancient borough * In the Magna Britannica it is said, " That Mr. John Heslehead was vicar of this parish in the time of the rebellion. He was turned out of his church by violence, when he was preaching, and his family soon after thrown out of the vicarage-house ; his daughter, who was near her delivery, not being permitted to lie in there. He thereupon hired a house in the town, but he was not suffered to dwell quietly ih it, his succes sor, Mr. Archibald Moor, being one of the chief that threatened to ruin him, if he staid in the parish." t The incumbent pays three shillings and eight-pence per annum to the Duke of Northumberland, for the ground occupied by the house and garden of the vicarage. V. L,/ , , % Twenty marks were left towards rebuilding this bridge, by Mr. John Cook, of Newcastle upon Tyne, 2 king Richard IT. 1379. 112 MORPETH WARD— E. D. are also chosen and sworn in at the same time, viz. two moor-grieves, two ale-conners, and three constables. The burgage-tenure consists of a house, a garden, and a smaU portion of land, which has been equaby divided among the burgesses. These tenures are, however, considered as freeholds, and the possessors of them have always voted for members for the county. A few of them are possessed by gentlemen who reside in the place ; the rest are the property of shopkeepers, mechanics, and husbandmen. The burgesses of Warkworth are also in possession of a freehold common, presented to them at a remote period by Sir Hugh de Morwick, consisting of 216 acres. A portion of it was, many years ago, inclosed, and divided among the burgesses, to the amount of 38 acres, being about half an acre to each. The remainder is used as a common pasture, in which each burgess has a right to graze a horse and a cow. It is a piece of excellent land, but, for want of proper draining and management, is not so productive as it might be made. From Felton the Coquet winds beautifuby through a charming country, its banks adorned with fine woods, until it reaches the foot of the castle. Here it takes a sud den turn to the north, and, encircling the town, forms a fine peninsula. From the east ofthe castle it winds to the sea. In the year 1764, it left the old course, and took the present direction. This fine river might easily be rendered navigable close to the town. Two freestone rocks would form natural piers at its mouth ; whbe vessels might ride in safety, when waiting for the tide, under shelter of Holy Island. Those who are interested in such an improvement will, it is hoped, act with spirit and liberality. There is a fishery in this river, belonging to the Duke of Northumberland, About 30 salmon, and from 12 to 15 thousand salmon-trouts, are caught annuaby. They are disposed of in the neighbouring towns, but chiefly at Newcastle. This delightful bttle town contains several genteel families, and is a most agreeable place of residence. The air is very salubrious, and instances of longevity frequent and remarkable. In the register of burials from 1801 to 1811, the number is 369, Of these 176 died below 50, and 193 above it. From this it is evident, that more than one-half of the inhabitants live to be above 50 years of age. Of those who died above 50 years, there were — from 70 to 80 years, 65 ; from 80 to 90, 54 ; from 90 to 99, 9 ; total, 128. Although this uncommon length of bfe must be attributed, in a certain degree, to the healthiness of the situation, yet it is also promoted by the sober, decorous habits of the inhabitants ; instances of intemperance, profligacy, and dissipa* tion, being very rare amongst them, Warkworth Castle. — The castle and barony of Warkworth belonged to Roger Fitz-Richard, who, upon the assessment of an aid for marrying the king's daughter, 12 Henry II. certified that he held the castle and manor of Warkworth by the ser vice of one knight's fee. He gave to the monks of Newminster, near Morpeth, a salt-work in this place, with the consent of Adeliza, his wife. His son and heir was Robert Fitz-Roger, who obtained of king John a confirmation of the castle and manor of Warkworth, held of the crown by the service of one knight's fee, as also of the manor of Clavering, in Essex, to be held by the like service. He died 16 John, and was succeeded, by his son and heir, John Fitz-Robert, to whom the same king ratified the castle and manor of Warkworth, granted by his father, king Henry II. After this, this manor and castle, with its members, Acklington, Birling, one-half of WARKWORTH PARISH. 113 Biddleston, and one-fourth of Togston, descended to his posterity ; and was at length, by John, surnamed de Clavering, his grandson, settled, with the manors of Rothbury, Corbridge, and Newburn, upon king Edward I. after his own and his lady's death, provided he died without male issue. They did not come to the crown till the be ginning of king Edward III.'s reign, when that prince bestowed it upon Henry Percy, the ancestor of the Earls of Northumberland, in lieu of 500 marks, which he had agreed to pay to Sir Henry Percy, then governor of Berwick, during life, out of the customs of Berwick. Warkworth Castle continued in the Percy family tib 8 king Richard II. 1384, when Henry, first Earl of Northumberland, being accused of treason, his estates were confiscated. In the 10th year of the same reign, Ralph Lord Nevil, of Raby, died possessed of this estate of Warkworth ; and in the 5th king Henry IV. Thomas Lord Furnival, brother of the Earl of Westmoreland, held the government of the castle. In the 2d king Henry V. the Percy family was restored, but being involved in the ruin of the House of Lancaster, they were attainted in the first parliament of Edward IV. and their estates forfeited and given to George Duke of Clarence, that king's Brother, who was then lieutenant of Ireland, for the support of his dignity ; but Robert Lord Ogle had a grant at the same time of the office of steward and constable of this and some other of his castles and lordships. But, in the 12th year of the same reign, Henry Percy, fourth Earl of Northumberland, was re stored to his estates and honours, from which time Warkworth has continued in the possession of the ancient and ibustrious house of Percy. This celebrated castle, which has so long survived the vicissitudes of many revolv ing ages,< is even, although in ruins, a fine monument of ancient grandeur. It is very boldly situated on an eminence, and overlooks the river Coquet, which, after almost surrounding it, at the distance of about a mile, empties itself into the sea. The rock on which this proud fortress is seated is of an oblong figure. The keep, or principal part of the building, stands on the north side, and is elevated on an artificial mount, several feet higher than the other parts : its figure is a square, with the angles cut away. Near the middle of each side of this square there is a turret, projecting at right angles, its end terminating in a semi-hexagon. These projections are of the same height as the rest of the keep, from the centre of which a lofty exploratory tower arises. The whole building*1 is large, and contains a variety of apartments. The entrance is by a flight of steps to a door in the southmost turret : within this door, on the ground floor, there are eight apartments, arched with stone, which seem to have been a place of refuge for cattle, as was generally the case in the old castles in this country. In one of these rooms there is a perpendicular hole, which leads to a dungeon, several feet below the surface of the ground. This horrid place is 15 feet square, and is flagged with stone. It was the place of confinement for prisoners, from which it was impossible to escape. Those who were doomed to this wretched abode were let down and drawn up with cords. Each of these rooms is lighted with a smab eyelet hole, through which an enemy on the outside might be assailed with arrows. There are also many holes of the same kind all around the other parts of the building, which seem intended for the same purpose. From these apartments there are one large and two small stair-cases that lead to the second story. On the top of the large stair-case is a vestibule for the attendants in waiting, round which stone seats are fixed, From this is the entrance into the great baronial hall. This room is vol. il 2 F 114 MORPETH WARD— E. D. 39 feet long, 24 feet broad, and about 20 feet high, and had extended to the top of the buildino-. There had been a recess in the middle of one of the side- walls for the fire-place, which reached to the top of the room, where there had been a hole for the smoke, Avhich was the common mode in ancient times. But at some future period, when the comfort of a room without smoke began to be known, the front of this re cess had been wabed up, and converted into a funnel, like our modern chimneys. At the bottom of the room were three doors, leading to the passages, which are in the side-wab, and enter a smaller room that had once been a chapel. The window that lights this room is larger and more ornamented than any other in the castle. In the wall, on each side, is placed the figure of an angel, supporting a shield, similar to those on the outside, but in a better state of preservation. There had been a gallery in this chapel, as appears from a fire-place in one of the side-wabs, elevated about 12 feet from the floor. Adjoining to this is another state-room, not quite so large as the great hall. The windows of these three rooms look to the sea. There are four other rooms, tolerably large, one of which had been the kitchen; and there are several others very small, some of them without windows. These, perhaps, were intended for hiding-places, or to conceal plunder. Over ab these apartments, except the great hall, there had been rooms of a similar size, as appears from the stones that project from the walls to support the flooring, and from the fire-places in the wabs. None of these rooms have ever been plastered or ornamented in any way : they were, no doubt, hung with tapestry, according to the custom of those days. The masonry of this part of the castle is in such an excellent state of preservation, that it wants httle more than a roof, floors, and glass in the windows, to restore it to its ancient state. In the front of the keep is an area, consisting of rather more than an acre of ground : the length from north to south is 85 yards, and from east to west 66. The walls are entire in many places, and are 35 feet high. The entrance had been guarded by a dry moat cut across the isthmus, over which was formerly a draw-bridge, long since removed, and its place supplied by a mound of earth. The gateway, or princi pal entrance, had once been a stately building, defended by a portcubis, and contain ing apartments for several of the officers of the castle ; but now only a few apartments remain, which are inhabited by the person who has the charge of the castle. There was a tower at both the south corners, each containing a few apartments, but they are now in a dilapidated state. There were similar towers about the middle of the east and west wabs, which are also in ruins. To the west of the gate-way were some buildings, none of which now remain except a tower, on one side of which is placed a rude figure of a lion ; and in the wabs above it are three shields, two of them bear ing the arms of the Percies. Near this is a pinnacle or spire, in which is a stair-case that leads to the top. The postern-gate is in the west wall, at a little distance. In the middle of the area is a draw-well, which formerly supplied the castle with water. Near it are two subterranean apartments ; but it does not appear for what purpose they were formed. It is not certainly known when this castle was built : from the circumstance of the Percy arms being put up in several parts of the building, some have supposed that it was erected by that family ; but by a slight inspection it is easily perceived that they have been inserted into the walls at an after period. This is clearly proved by one of them having faben out, and the place where it was fixed appears to be cut in the WARKWORTH PARISH. 115 wab, about six inches deep. The gateway and outer walls are evidently the work of a remote age ; but the keep, or donjon, exhibits the peculiarities of a more recent and more opulent period, and was probably bubt by the Percy family. The present noble proprietor seems inclined to preserve this grand specimen of a baronial residence. The exploratory tower, or " day watch," is being covered with lead ; and it is said that many considerable repairs are in contemplation.* * When Leland wrote his Itinerary, this castle was in thorough repair : his words are, " Warkworth castell stondythe on the south syde of Coquet water ; it is well maynteyned, and is large." At that time the Percy family was under attainder, and Warkworth, &c. in the hands of the crown, during which, this castle was probably neglected, and fell into the decay described in the following survey, taken about the year 1567, when the family had been restored but a few years. As this survey contains an exact and curious description of the building of the castle, we shall give it at large, together with some particulars relating to its demoli tion ; all which was communicated to that industrious and learned antiquary Mr. Grose, by permission of their graces the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, being preserved among the archives of their illustri ous house : — " The castell of Warkworth ys situate on the ryver of Cockett ; on the south syde of the same ryver ys one little mount parteley maid by nature of the ground, with the course of the sayd ryver on the west syde, and on the east and north syde with moytes casten and mad by mens worke ; and one the sowth parte ys the waye and passadge to and from the sayd castell by two severall wayes; one of which two passadges were good to be mad upe; that ys the waye that goyth towardes the sowth by the loyninge strongly ditched, casten, or made with stone wall, and the hye streate to be made to goo thorow the demaynes, and the same casten in a loyning there with a stronge quickwoode hedge casten of ey ther syde ; the stones of the old caw- sey taken awaye, and a cawsey newly made within that ground of the said demaynes, viz. from the north end of a meadow-close, called Tybbettes Close, eastward, to one hye waye that goyth to the gate of the demaynes, and alonge the same waye to the sayd gate ; which myght be done with small charge ; and that done, the parke wold not only be on that syde well inclosed, the dear have feedinge nighe the gate of the said castell, but also yt shold be a great strength to the sayd parke, castell, and groundes joyninge upon the same, a better passadge than that now ys in all respects, and hurt no person, so that the same were well and orderlye done or made. " The buyldinge of the sayd castell on the sowth parte, is thre towres : viz. The gate house towre, in the middle thereof; which is th' entrye at a draw bridge over a drye moyte : and in the same towre ys a prison, and porter lodge ; and over the same a fare lodginge, called the constables lodginge ; and in the courtayne between the gatehouse and west towre in the corner beynge round of diverse squares, called Crady-fargus, is a fare and comely buyldinge, a chapel], and diverse houses of office one the ground ; and above the great chambre, and the lordes lodginge : all which be now in great deceye, as well in the covertour beynge lead, as also in timbre and glass ; and without some help of reparaciones it will come to utter ruin. " Turning north from the south-west corner in that courtayne streatchinge to another little towre, called the posterne towre, ys th' old hall, which was verie fare, and now by reason yt was in decay, ys unroofed, and the tymbre taken downe lyinge in the said castell. In the same square a buttrye, pantrye, and kitchinge, which are now also in utter decay. And at th' entrye into the hall, for the porche thereof, is raised a little square towre wherein is two chambres, and on the foresyd in stone portrayed a lyon verie workemanly wrought, and therefore called the lyon towre ; the same is covered with lead, and in good reparacions. Th' other towre, called the posterne towre, is two lodginges, under which goith owt a posterne ; and the same is covered with lead, and in good reparacions. In th' est syde of the great hall was an ile sett owt with pyllers, which yet standeth, and coverd with lead. " From the gatehouse towre to the towre in the est corner, called ys no buyldinge, but onely a courtayne wall, fare and of a new buyldinge ; and in that towre is a stable one the grounde, and thre lodg- 116 MORPETH WARD— E. D. Mr. Grose, in his description of this ancient castle, says, " Nothing can be more magnificent and picturesque, from what part soever it is viewed ; and though, when entire, it was far from being destitute of strength, yet its appearance does not excite the idea of those rugged fortresses destined solely for war, whose gloomy towers sug- ings above : the same is coverd with lead, and in good reparacions, Turnynge from that towre towards the doungeon north, is another little turrett in the wall, ys sett upon that courteyn wall stables and gardeners over the same covered with slate, and in good reparacions. Over the courte from the sayd towre, called the posterne towre, to the sayd turrett, is the foundacion of a house, which was ment to have been a colledge, and good parte ofthe walls were builded; which if yt had bene finished and made a parfit square, the same had been a division betweene the said courte to the lodgings before recyted, and the doungeon. The build- inge that was made of the sayd collidge is now taken awaye, savinge that certeyn walls under the ground thereof yet remayne : and at the east part thereof is now a brewhouse and bakhouse, covered with slate, and in good reparacions. In the sayd courte is a drawell which serveth the holie house of water. " The doungion is in the north parte of the scyte of the said castell, sett upon a little mount highyer than the rest of the cowrte steppes of a Greas before ye enter to y t : and the same ys buyld as a foure square, and owt of every square one towre : all which be so quarterly squared together, that in the sighte every parte appeareth fy ve towres very finely wrought of mason worke ; and in the same conteyned, as well a fare hall; kytchinge, and all other houses of offices verie fare and aptely placed, as also great chambre, cha- pell, and lodgings for the lord and his trayn. In the middle thereof is a peace voy'd, which is called a lan- terne; which both receyveth the water from diverse spowtes of the lead, and hath his conveyance for the same; and also gevith light to certayne lodgings in some partes. And on the parte ofthe same at the top ys raysed of a good hight above all the houses a turrett, called the watch house ; upon the top whereof ys a great vyew to be had, and a fare prospect, as well towards the sea, as all parties of the land. In the north part of the say'd doungeon ys portrayed a lyon wrought in the stone verie workmanly. "The castell is envyroned on thre partes with tbe sayd ryver; and of the north parte, in an angle within the say'd water, is situate a towne, called the borowgh of Warkworth, and the parish church : and at the north end thereof a bridge over the water, and a little towre buyld on th' ende of the sayd bridge, wher a pare of gates ys hanged : and now the said towre ys without roof, and cover ; and without amendment will in short tyme utterlye decay ; yt shalbe therefore very requisete that the towre be withall speed repaired, and the gates hanged upe, which shall be a great savety and comoditye for the towre." This castle (principally the buildings in the outer court) for want of repairs still growing more ruinous, a warrant (as appears from an entry made in a book containing copies of commissions, warrants, &c. on the Earl of Northumberland's affairs) was granted to Mr. Whitehead, one of the stewards to that Earl, dated the 24th of June, 1608, "to take down the lead that lieth upon the ruinous towers and places of Warkworth to waye it and laye it uppe, and to certify his lordship of the quantity thereof, that the places where lead is taken off be coverd againe for the preservation ofthe timber." And in 1610 the old timber of the buildings in the outer court was sold for 28/. In 1672, the donjon or keep ofthe castle was unroofed, &c. at the instance of Joseph Clarke, one ofthe auditors to the family, who obtained a gift of the materials from the then Countess of Northumberland, The following is a copy of a letter from him to one of the tenants : — " William Milbourne, — Being to take downe the materialls of Warkworth Castle, which are given to me by the Countess of Northumberland to build a house at Cheuton, I doe desire you to speake to all hir ladishipps tenants in Warkworth, Birlinge, Buston, Acklington, Shilbottle, Lesbury, Longhaughton, and Bilton, that they will assist me with their draughts as soone as conveniently they can, to remove the lead and tymbe- which shall be taken downe, and such other materialls as shall be fitt to be removed, and bringe it to Cheu ton (Chirton), which will be an obligation to theire and your friend, JO. CLARKE, WARKWORTH PARISH. 117 gest to the imagination only dungeons, chains, and executions ; but rather that of such an ancient hospitable mansion as is alluded to by Milton : ' Where throngs of knights and barons bold In weeds of peace high triumphs hold.' " The castle and moat, according to an ancient survey, contained 5 acres 17f perches of ground. Its wabs on the south, east, and west sides, are garnished with towers. The great gate of the castle is on the south side, between two polygonal towers, and is also defended with machicolations." Warkworth Hermitage. — This "little lonely hermitage" has obtained great celebrity by the beautiful and interesting babad of the Hermit of Warkworth, which appeared from the pen of Dr. Percy, bishop of Dromore, in 1771. This holy retreat is situated on the north bank of the Coquet, about half a mbe west of the castle. Those who visit it must cross the river in a boat. The approach is kept in neat order, and stib retains its original form. A narrow walk on the brink of the river (which, at this place, flows without any troubled current) leads to the door of the hermitage ; lofty perpendicular rocks, on the other hand, confining the walk to about the width of four feet. From the summit of the cliffs a grove of oaks is suspended, casting a solemn shade ; and at their feet issues a spring of the purest water, which formerly suppbed the recluse. The steps, vestibule, and chief apartment of the her mitage, are hewn out of the bosom of a freestone rock, whose outside face is about 20 feet high, embowered with stately trees, which impend from the top of the precipice and fissures of the cbffs. One lower and outward apartment is of masonry ; the en trance into which is by a passage of three paces, the door- way marked with the re mains of bolts and iron hinges : it is bubt up against the side of the rock, about 18 feet square, and appears to have been the kitchen or principal dwelling, having a range or fire-place six feet wide. On the south side of this apartment, opposite the entrance, is a door-way leading to an outward seat formed in the rock, and opening upon the walk on the river's brink. On this side of the room are two windows, which bear the marks of iron grating ; and also a closet. By holes cut in the rock, it seems as if timbers had been lodged therein for the flooring of an upper chamber. This struc ture is built of ashler-work, and appears to be of much more modern date than the cebs formed in the rock. Passing from this outward building by the entrance, the visitant ascends, by 17 steps, to a bttle vestibule, with a seat on each side, capable of holding one person only. Above the inner door- way appear the remains of an inscription, which was, " Sunt mihi lachrymce mete cibo interdice <§ noctu ;" which may be Englished, " My tears have " In regard they are like to be out three days ere they gett home, I shall be content to allow e every Wayne half a crowne, and let me know who refuse to do me they " Newcastle, 27 April, 1672. To my loving friend William Milbourne, at his house at Birlinge." From the time that Mr. Clarke completed the ruin of this venerable structure to the present, it has re mained in a mutilated state ; but so excellent is its workmanship, that it has resisted the devastations of time without much further injury. VOL. II. 2 G 118 MORPETH WARD— E. D. been my food day and night !" From thence he enters the principal apartment, or chapel, about 18 feet in length, and not more than seven and a half wide, and of the same height. Two pilasters, of semi-hexagonal form, project from the opposite wabs in the centre, and one from each corner, from whence spring the intersecting groins of the roof, the joinings ornamented with roses. The pilasters have plain capitals and bases, in the old Gothic style. All the work is chissebed, and done with mechanic exactness and regularity : the wall, or outside rock, at the entrance, is left so thick as to admit the vestibule before described. At the east end is an altar formed cross the whole apartment, ascended by two steps ; the upper plane edged with a moulding. In the centre of the wab, behind, is a niche for a crucifix or image, with the remains of a glory. On the right hand, near the altar, is a niche or cavity, cut out of the thickness of the wall, within which there is represented a table monument (no chink or cavity appearing to give a supposition that it is hollowed to receive any human remains), with a recumbent female figure, the hands and arms of which appear to have been elevated. Light is admitted by two smab windows behind. On the pibar which divides the windows are the remains of some sculpture, supposed by many. to be that of an hovering cherub ; but this appears to be merely conjecture. At the foot of the recumbent effigies is a bason cut for holy water, and the feet of the effigies rest against an animal (most likely a dog, as an emblem of fidelity), as is usual on monu ments of the like form. Under the head of the effigies no crest appears ; a double cushion is the support. By length of time, and the weather beating through the win dows, the figures are greatly injured. In a niche, at the foot of the monument, and cut in the wall, is the figure of an hermit, on his knees, resting his head on his right hand, and his left hand placed on his bosom, as in a lamenting or pensive posture. The west end of the chapel is lighted by a window, formed of four conjoining circles. Above the inner door of the vestibule is a shield bearing the remains of some arms, by some taken to be the figure of a gauntlet ; but as it is generaby bebeved one of the Bertrams formed this hermitage, so it is probable this shield (the remains of which seem to correspond therewith) bore the Bertram's arms, or, an orl, azure. On the left hand of the altar, a window is formed in the partition of the apartment, divided by two mullions, the summit of each light or division ornamented with work formed of sections of circles, like those seen in cathedrals of the tenth ceritury. From the chapel is an entrance into an inner apartment by a neat door-case, over which is sculptured a shield, with the crucifixion and several instruments of torture. At the east end of this inner apartment is an altar, like that in the chapel, bghted by the last-described window, and through which the person kneeling at the inner altar could view the ce notaph in the chapel. This apartment is about five feet wide, and nine paces in length. Here is also a niche or bason for holy water. On the northern side of this inner chamber a recess is cut in the rock, of size suffi cient to hold the couch of a person of middling stature. It is alcoved above, and has a sole, about two feet above the level of the floor, to hold the mattrass and bedding of the recluse. This recess is so placed that, by a niche cut slantwise in the partition- wall which separates the two apartments, there is a view of the cenotaph and effigies thereon. The niche seemed calculated for this very purpose : being cut through the wall aslant, it could not be conceived to have been intended to convey the light By some it has been imagined to be designed for confession : but it is most probable that WARKWORTH PARISH. 119 the hermit was priest and penitent in one ; and that he had devised those apertures that the effigies should be constantly in his sight. In this inner apartment is a small closet cut in the side-wab to the north : from this interior chamber is a door- way leading to an open gabery, having a prospect up the river ; but by the falling of some of the rock above, this part is greatly damaged. It is said by old people, that the roof was supported by a fine pibar, and formed a small piazza, cloister, or open gabery : such gaberies are seen in very ancient mansions in the centre of the front. From these cebs, through a neat door-way, there are winding stabs cut in the rock, leading to its summit, supposed to conduct tb the hermit's olitory or garden. A channel is ingeniously formed on the steps to carry off the water. It seems evident that the original hermitage consisted of no more than the apartments hewn in the rock, the inner one being the dwelling-place, and the little cloister the summer seat facing westward, and commanding a beautiful view of the river Coquet, which here forms a fine curve, in extent near half a mile ; on this side bordered by rocks, on the other by cultivated lands of an easy inclination : on the extremity stands a farmhold to termi nate the sequestered rural prospect. The learned Dr. Percy has given some ingenious remarks respecting the founder and antiquity of this hermitage, in the advertisement to his poem on the subject. It is the universal tradition, that the first hermit was one of the Bertram family, and imposed this penance upon himself to expiate the murder of his brother. Some have imagined that it was the same Bertram that endowed Brinkburn Priory and built Brenkshaugh chapel, both of which stand in the same romantic valley, higher up the river. But Brinkburn Priory was founded in the reign of king Henry I. whereas the form of the Gothic windows in this chapel, especially of those near the altar, is found rather to resemble the style of architecture that prevailed about the reign of king Edward III. And, indeed, that the sculpture in this chapel cannot be much older, appears from the crest which is placed at the lady's feet on the tomb ; for Camden informs us, that armorial crests did not become hereditary tib about the reign of king Edward II. Dr. Percy informs us, on good authority, that the memory of the first hermit was held in such regard and veneration by the Percy family, that they afterwards main tained a chantry priest to reside in the hermitage, and celebrate mass in the chapel ; whose abowance, uncommonly bberal and munificent, was continued down to the dis solution of the monastries ; and then the whole salary, together with the hermitage and ab its dependencies, reverted back to the family, having never been endowed in mortmain. On this account we have no record which fixes the date of the founda tion, or gives any particular account of the first hermit* * The following instrument will shew the liberal exhibition afforded to the successor of the first hermit. It is the patent granted to the last hermit in 1532, and is copied from an ancient MS. book of Grants, &c. of the Vlth Earl of Northumberland, in Henry VHI.'ths time: — "Sir George Lancastre Patent of xx Merks by Yere. — Henry Erie of Northumberland, &c. Knowe youe that I the said Erie, in consideration of the diligent and thankfull service, that my well-beloved chapelin, Sir George Lancastre hath don unto me the said Erie, and also for the goode and vertus disposition that I do perceive in him : and for that he shall have in his daily recommendation and praiers the good estate of all suche noble blode and other personages, as be now levynge ; and the soule of such noble blode as be departed 120 MORPETH WARD— E. D. Some have confounded the chantry, within the town of Warkworth, with this her mitage. But two priests were maintained at the chantry, and only one priest within the hermitage, as is plainly proved (if any further proof be wanting) by the fobowing extract from a survey of Warkworth, made in the year 1567 : — " Ther is in the Parke isc. of Warkworth] also one Howse hewyn within one Cragge, which is called the larmitage Chapel : In the same ther haith bene one Preast keaped, which did such godlye Services as that time was used and celebrated. The Mantion House [sc. the small building adjoining to the Cragg] ys nowe in decaye : the Closes that apper- teined to the said Chantrie is occupied to his lordship's use." This curious memorial of devotion, so venerable for its antiquity, and so interesting from the delightful sobtude in which it is placed, continues to be visited by strangers of ab descriptions ; and there is no doubt but that the present noble proprietor wib continue attentive to its preservation, and the improvement of the beautiful scenery by which it is surrounded. The town of Warkworth did not escape the evils generaby experienced by the inha bitants of a frontier country. After king Wibiam of Scotland, sirnamed the Lion, to the mercy of God owte of this present lyve, Whos Names are conteyned and wrettyn in a Table upon perchment signed with thande of me the said Erie, and delivered to the custodie and keapynge of the said Sir George Lancastre : and further, that he shall kepe and saye his devyn service in celebratyng and doynge Masse of Requiem every weke accordinge as it is written and set furth in the said Table : Have geven and graunted, and by these presentes do gyve and graunte unto the said Sir George, myn Armytage belded in a rocke of stone within my Parke of Wahkwobth, in the countie of Northumbreland, in the honour of the blessed Trynete, With a yerly stipende of twenty merks by yer, from the feest of seint Michell tharchaungell last past afore the date herof yerly duryng the naturall lyve ofthe said sir George: And also, I the said Erie have geven and graunted, and by these Presents do gyve and graunte unto the said sir George Lancastre, the occupation of one litle Gresground of myn called Cony-garth nygh adjoynynge the said Harmytage, only to his only use and proufit wynter and sumer durynge the said terme ; The Garden and Orteyarde belongyng the said Armytage ; The Gate and Pasture of Twelf Kye and a Bull, with their Calves suking ; And two Horses goyng and beyng within my said Parke of Warkworth wynter and somer ; one draught of Fisshe every Sondaie in the yere to be drawen fornenst the said Armytage, called the Trynete Draught; And Twenty Lods of Fyrewode to be taken of my Wodds called Shilbotell Wode, duryng the said term. " The said Stipend of xx Merks by yer to be taken and perceived yerly of the rent and ferme of my Fisshyng of Warkworth, by thands of the Fermour or Fermours of the same for the tyme beyng yerly at the times ther used and accustomed by evyn Portions. In wytnes whereof to thes my Letters Patentes I the said Erie have set the Seale of myn Armes : Yeven undre by Signet at my Castell of Warkworth, the third daye of Decembre, in the xxiiith Yer of the Reigne of our Sovereyn Lorde Kyng Henry the eight." This old record is a curiosity very singular in its kind. " When I perused it," says Grose, " I could not help smiling at tbe article ofthe Trinity Draught of Fish, to be taken opposite to the chapel, which was to be the hermit* s perquisite every Sunday. It was, I assure you, no contemptible perquisite ; for there is a very rich sal mon-fishery in this river belonging to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland ; and 1 was told, that at one single draught, this summer (1771), more than 300 fish had been taken opposite the hermitage. I have been assured, that more than 400 fish, chiefly salmon, salmon-trouts, and gilts, have been taken at one draught between the hermitage and the sea, which is about two miles distant." A great quantity of fish is now some times taken by a singular contrivance :— A new semicircular cut has been made above the Hermitage, through which the river is at pleasure diverted; when, a portion of the regular channel being left dry, the fish are, picked up in abundance. WARKWORTH PARISH. 121 made his disgraceful retreat from the castle of Prudhoe, A. D. 1174, he beset the castle of Alnwick with his whole army, consisting of 80,000 men. Being repulsed for some time, he formed a blockade, and drew off many of his forces in marauding parties, to pibage the country ; one of which, as Benedict of Peterborough says, com manded by Earl Duncan, entered the town of Warkworth, burnt it, and put all the inhabitants to the sword, without distinction of age or sex : the soldiers broke open the church of St. Lawrence, in which, and in the house of the minister, they slew above one hundred men, besides women and children. In more recent times, the Earl of Northumberland, in a letter to the king and his councb, says, that he dressed him self at midnight, by the bght of the surrounding villages, which were set on fire by the Scotch marauders. The agricultural riches of the inhabitants of this district often excited the cupidity of the Borderers, and they were much exposed to their daring inroads. The lands adjoining Warkworth are remarkably fertile. The river is graced with bttle woodlands ; and the whole landscape, as far as the eye can reach, consists of a rich cultivated country, crowded with hamlets and villages, while the sea-shore is in-, dented with many little ports and creeks. In the town John Clutterbuck, Esq. has a pleasant and convenient mansion-house, Coquet Island bes opposite the mouth of the river, more than a mbe from the main land. It is said by Bede to have been famous for the resort of monks in St. Cuthbert's time. Here was a ceb for Benedictine monks, subordinate to Tynemouth Priory. At the dissolution, 4 Edward VI. it was granted to the Earl of Warwick. Above 60 years ago it was the property of the Widdringtons, of Hauxley, who sold it to the then Duke of Northumberland. The ruins of the fortress that defended the island are partly converted into a dwelling-house and light-house. "It standeth," saith Leland, " upon a very good vayne of secole ; and in the ebb, men digge in the shore by the clives." It is about a mile in circumference, and contains about seven acres of rich pasture, upon which a few horses graze in summer. Angola rabbits have been lately introduced here by the Duke of Northumberland, and have increased prodigiously. They are protected by a fisherman and his wife ; and the long, fine fur of these animals, a quantity of which has just been shipped, wbl no doubt become a valuable article of trade. Kelp is sometimes manufactured on the shores of this island. It was taken in the reign of Charles I. by the Scots, together with about 200 men, and seven pieces of cannon.* * Shipwrecks are frequent on this coast ; for, during a storm, it is difficult to avoid the rocks which project into the sea in various directions. One case of this kind merits notice. A dreadful tempest happened on the 4th of November, 1 821, when the Catherine, of Sunderland, struck upon the rocks that stretch from the north end of Coquet Island ; and the whole crew, consisting of nine young men of excellent character, perished. During the day, which was Sunday, an immense number of people assembled to witness the horrid scene. The breakers were dashing over the wreck, and the crew clinging to the rigging for safety. A few bold and generous fellows prepared to embark in cobles, and to attempt the rescue of the perishing mariners ; but the enterprize seemed so hazardous and hopeless, that they were impelled to give up the design by the tears and remonstrances of their wives and relatives. Every indication of assistance was hailed by the crew with de light ; but as the night approached, and the crowd began to disperse, their cries and shrieks, as heard by two or three people on the island, were indescribably appalling. In the night the vessel went to pieces, and the VOL. II. 2 H 122 MORPETH WARD— E. D. Berlin lies opposite to Warkworth, and belongs to the Duke of Northumberland. High Buston is the property of the same nobleman, of Mr. Forster, and of Thomas Buston, Esq. of Buston House. Low Buston is possessed by Mr. Appleby and Mr. Wilkinson : the former lives here in a pleasant situation near Buston Burn. Stur- ton Grange is the property and residence of Mr. Jobson. Brother wick belongs to the Fenwick family ; but the right of possession is disputed. Ab these townships, including the Walk Mill, lie north of the Coquet. Mor wick stands on the south banks of the Coquet, which here makes a bend, as if to visit the place, and is distant one mile west by south from Warkworth. It is the property of Colonel John Grey, son of the late Charles Grey, Esq. whose father, John Grey, was a younger son of John Grey, Esq. of Howick, who was high sheriff of Northumberland in the year 1701. His elder brother, Henry, was created a baro net, and was father of the late Earl Grey. The grounds adjoining the house are laid out with much taste ; and the general effect is much heightened by the banks of the river, which are beautifully romantic and picturesque. Morwick was the head of the ancient barony of that name, held by Hugh de Mor- wick, in the reign of king Edward I. from his ancestors, as de veteri feofmento. They were famous men in their generation, both for pobcy, wealth, and power ; but the last Roger having no male issue, his*name and title became extinct, and his barony, after his death, was divided among his four daughters, of which Sibil, the eldest, married to Roger de Lumley, and the next to — Seymour ; the third, named Theophania, to John de Buhner, and the youngest to — Roscell, among whom the barony was, 4 Edward I. divided ; but it is probable that this manor was about this time alienated, either by the last Roger, or his heirs, for we find Morwick one of those manors which Wibiam de Vescy died possessed of, 37 Henry III. ; unless it should be another ma nor of the same name in this barony, which is possible, because it is spelled Morewic. Acklington is a pretty considerable village, containing one farmhold, two public houses, and a number of cottages, chiefly inhabited by mechanics and labourers in husbandry. The adjoining colliery is carried on by Messrs. Crisp and Cowan, to some extent. The manor of Acklington formed a part of the barony of Warkworth, and anciently belonged to the Percys, Earls of Northumberland, but was fpr some successions divided into three parts, two of which were settled upon the male heir, and the third upon the relict of the father. Thus Henry Earl of Northumberland settled two parts of this manor, 7 Edward III. upon his son Henry ; and Idonea, his mother, had for her dowry an assignation of a third part of this manor of Ackbngton, and divers others in this county, which upon her death returned to him. He died 42 Edward III. and left a daughter, then but two years old, his heir. It is still in the possession of the Percy family. sufferings of these brave and useful men were terminated. During the whole of this melancholy scene, the general cry was, " Oh, had we but a life-boat !" It is indeed very difficult to account for the culpable negli gence of the neighbouring ship-owners and gentry, in not having provided a single boat of this description between Shields and Bambrough, a distance of near 50 miles. One might be very advantageously stationed rtear Warkworth, where a sufficient number of spirited hands would be found on any emergency. WARKWORTH PARISH. 12S Acklington Park bes on the south side of the Coquet, about four miles from Warkworth, in a fine secluded situation. Here is a considerable wooben manufactory for blankets, duffles, &c. carried on by Messrs. Reed. This place and the adjoining farmholds belong to the Duke of Northumberland. Glosterhill stands pleasantly on an eminence on the south side of the Coquet, and but a short distance from the sea. The house and garden bear evident marks of antiquity. It is the property and residence of Henry Dand, Esq. Mr. George Law- son, a respectable gentleman who resided here, and who died above 80 years ago, made a present of a clock to the parish of Warkworth. He also rebuilt the market-cross, and erected a house for a school, and a dwelling for the master, which he gave in per petuity to the town. Such instances of benevolence ought not to be left unrecorded. Amble is seated upon an abrupt eminence, a short distance south of Glosterhib. It commands an extensive view of the sea-coast ; and Warkworth Castle, with the rising grounds beyond it, form a pleasing landscape. From the advantageous situa tion of this vibage, near the mouth of the Coquet, it must have been a place of con sequence in the remotest times. The foundations of buildings, formed of undrest stones, and built in a circular form, without mortar, in the manner of the ancient Britons, have been discovered here ; and the Roman eoins that have been found, tend to prove that it was also occupied by that warlike people. Mr. John Shanks, of this place, while forming an embankment from the sea, discovered an ancient causeway, about one foot below the surface of the earth, 2^ feet broad, strongly paved, and run ning in a straight direction from Amble to the old bed of the Coquet ; from which it would appear that this river has often changed its course. The traces of habitations, stib discernible here, attest its former consequence. From many of the stones being defaced with fire, it is probable that at some period this vibage has been burnt. Here was formerly a monastry, subordinate to the priory of Tynemouth, and which esta blishment has enjoyed great privileges in both Amble and Hauxley. There is still a custom of paying 33 bobs of bigg, annuaby, on the 13th of February, before the wabs of the monastry. This religious house is now in ruins, and also the chapel ; but in the latter, a man did penance for fornication so late as the year 1765. Adjoining the north wab of the monastry, a very large quantity of human bones were lately found. They were deposited upon a thin layer of red clay, and covered with a large stone, without any inscription. The manor of Amble, with its valuable coal-mines, have, since the Reformation, belonged to different proprietors. The Earl of Derwentwater held lands here, by mortgage-deed from a family of the name of Lewins. Afterwards several noblemen had grants of estates here from the crown for life ; but they were made freeholds in the time of the late Lord Newborough. The extensive farms of Amble-Hope-House and Low-Hall, with the rabbit-warren, and the entire royalty of Amble, are still held by Lady Newborough. T. G. Smith, Esq. of Togston, holds a valuable estate here; and another belongs to Mrs. Taylor, a widow lady. Isaac Cookson, jun. Esq. of Newcastle, also possesses a considerable tract of land, which was formerly the property of his father-in-law, the late Mr. Cook, of Togston. The Er- rington famby has also had land here, as there are several ridges stib known by the name of Errington's lands. 124 MORPETH WARD— E. D. Togston. — The vibage of Togston is pleasantly situated about 3 miles south of Warkworth, and 1^ mile west from the sea. This fine township is the property of Thomas George Smith, Esq. and of Isaac Cookson, jun. Esq. of Newcastle, who mar ried the daughter of the late — Cook, Esq. of this place. Both the family of the Smiths and of the Cooks have held lands here for upwards of two centuries, and the latter has sent out branches into various parts of the county. On Mr. Cookson's estate there is a landsale cobiery, wrought on a limited scale ; but the strata of coals here is of immense thickness. The highly cultivated lands, and the varie gated pleasure-grounds, that surround Mr. Smith's elegant mansion, attest the skib and spirit of William Smith, Esq. the father of the present proprietor, and who was incessantly engaged in schemes of improvement. Hauxley stands upon the banks of the sea, at a short distance south from the mouth of the Coquet. Here is a public house, and several cottages, inhabited by fishermen. The fishery was formerly more flourishing than at present. The taking of lobsters, which were sent to London, was a profitable branch of trade, which is now nearly extinct. The kinds of fish usually caught on this coast are, cod, ling, haddock, whiting, cole-fish, holybut, turbot, pearl, sole, plaise, and flounders. Mac kerel have been sometimes taken, but rarely. Herring are much scarcer than for merly. The lump-fish, when in season, are got in considerable numbers on the adjoining rocks, cabed Bondicar Rocks. Crabs and sea-urchins are found here ; but the latter is not eaten in this country. Shrimps abound, and cockles are got at the mouth of the Coquet. Hauxley, like Amble, formerly belonged to Tynemouth Priory. It afterwards came into the possession of a branch of the Widdrington family, who held it for several generations. John Widdrington, Esq. the last male heir of this family, died some years ago, and left his estate of Hauxley to his two nieces. It now belongs partly to the Rev. Joseph Cook, of Newton Hab, who mar ried one of the nieces ; and partly to James Dand, Esq. of Woodside. Chivington Chapelry. — This chapelry,, comprizing the townships of East and West Chivington, Bullock's Hall, and Hadstone, forms the south division of Warkworth parish. It contains twelve large excebent farms, eight of which belong to Earl Grey. The other four, viz. Hadstone, Hadstone Link House,* and High * In vol. i. p. 137, mention is made of an improved agricultural machine, invented by Mr. Robert Coward-, of Hadstone Link House, accompanied with a doubt of its avowed capabilities. The writer has since seen the machine, and is convinced of its pre-eminent utility. The drill is 45 inches long, and will, at pleasure, sow any number of rows below six at a time. The seed is lifted up, and delivered by cupped wheels into iron spouts, which make their own furrows. A slide in the seed-box regulates the quantity of seed intended to be delivered. The iron spouts may be set at any deepness in the ground, and are fixed with screws, so that they cannot vary ; and the deepness, of sowing is regulated by the hind- wheels, on which the drill moves. The fore-end is supported by two variable or castor wheels, with a tiller attached, by which the machine is guided to any degree of straightness, even supposing the horses vary considerably. This is one ofthe chief advantages of the contrivance. By removing the seed-box, and inserting hoes or cutters in place of the seedr spouts, an excellent hoeing machine is completed, which works truly and regularly. When it is thought exl pedient to earth up the corn, it is only necessary to screw a piece of plate-iron upon the hinder part of each hoe. The drill is wrought by a man and boy and two horses, and the hoe by a man and boy and one horse. WOODHORN PARISH. 125 and Low Coldriff, were lately sold by Sir Carnaby Haggerston, to Addison John Cressweb Baker, Esq. of Woodhorn Demesne. This district is celebrated for pro ducing wheat of a superior quabty. Chivington Wood is a part of the ancient and extensive forest of Earsdon : though much reduced in late years, it is stib of a very considerable extent. The land adjoining Druridge Bay, in the farm of East Chivington, bes so low, for about half a mile, that formerly it was sometimes over flowed by the tide, and hence acqubed the name of the Salt Meadows. The chapel, which belonged to Warkworth church, stood near Bullock's Hall. It has long been in ruins. This is a great inconvenience to the inhabitants of the chapeby ; for as they have no pews in the parish church, they are left without any place for attending divine service. Some land near the ruined chapel belongs to the tythes. Chivington has formerly been a very populous place. The foundations of houses are still visible, in a continued line from East to West Chivington ; a distance of a mile and a hab". In former times, six mihs for grinding corn, exclusive of the mibs at Warkworth, were employed in this parish; a strong proof of its great population.* Bubock's Hab is the property of Ralph Fenwick, Esq. of Shortridge. Instances of longevity are common in this chapeby. A woman died at Hadston (Sept, 1823), aged 105 years. She was born in Eglingham parish. WOODHORN PARISH. This parish, including the chapelries of Widdrington and Woodhorn, is bounded on the north by Warkworth parish, on the west by Ulgham and Bothal, on the south Upwards of 100 acres may easily be hoed by this machine in a fortnight. Mr. Coward calls it the Wark worth Drill Hoe. This ingenious farmer has also invented a machine for rubbing out the grain by rol lers, to which are given a revibratory motion, instead of thrashing it ; and by which contrivance he proposes to save a great deal of power. * Population has not perhaps increased so rapidly in modern times in England as is imagined. Fitz-Ste- phen mentions, that at a muster of the Londoners, in the reign of Stephen, there were 20,000 horsemen and 60,000 footmen ; and Harrison says, that in the muster taken in 1 574, the men fit for service in England amounted to 1,172,674, and yet it was believed that a full third were omitted. London, the sea-ports, and the manufacturing districts, have become much more populous than they formerly were ; but, on the other hand, the agricultural counties have been greatly depopulated. For instance, in Dorsetshire, according to the parliamentary returns in 1818, there were 14 parish churches and a chapel, with each a living, to a popu= lation of 1,145 souls, which is one place of worship for every 25 or 30 adults who could in the county attend church. In Wiltshire, again, there are ten parishes, containing altogether but 152 souls. There are many parishes, in other parts of England, that do not contain people enough to fill one pew ; yet when the old country churches were first erected, they were, no doubt, adapted in size to the population of the parishes. Adjoining most of the villages in Northumberland there are numerous traces of buildings, with small inclosures, called Paddocks, and which were formerly attached to respectable houses. Many chapels, like that of Chivington, have been suffered to tumble into ruins; and in most cases, when ancient churches are repaired, they are, at the same time, curtailed in their dimensions. Nor is this surprising when it is considered that, in most parishes, three, four, or five farms, have, within the memory of persons living, been made into one. These facts prove, that while towns are increasing in population, the country is gradu ally growing less populous ; but the collecting of people into masses induces the belief that population is generally increasing more than is the fact. VOL. II. 2 I 126 MORPETH WARD— E. D. by Bedlingtonshbe, and on the east by the sea. It extends, from north to south, above seven miles ; but the average breadth does not much exceed two miles. By the census in 1821, it contained 330 dwebing-houses, and 1766 inhabitants. There are seven schools in this parish, attended by 200 children. "In the year 1800, the sum of £1200 was left by a Mr. Forster, for establishing a charity*school> in which 25 children were to be instructed ; but from a flaw in the construction of the wib, the executors were informed that the transaction would be illegal. They, however, pro mised to carry the will of the testator into effect, and paid £ 25 to a master, and gave annually some articles of clothing ; but both being now dead, the heirs have refused to continue the salary, or refund any of the property." The school at the vibage of Cresswell was established, and is partly supported, by Addison John Cressweb Baker, Esq. who abows £20 to a master, a cottage, and school-room for the education of fishermen's children, who, with extra scholars, amount to about 30, ab of whom pay a smab quarterage. There is also a dame's school in the same vibage. Thomas Trip let, in 1664, vested lands in the hands of trustees, which produced £7, 10*. per an num, for apprenticing poor children born in this parish. Woodhorn signifies the Wood-corner, from the Anglo-Saxon horn, a corner; having probably been the south-east corner of the wood which formerly overspread this coast. This village is situated at a short distance from the sea, and 7 mbes east-north-east from Morpeth. It contains a pubbc house, and a few cottages, inha bited by mechanics and husbandmen. An old-fashioned house here is occupied by Mr. Francis Johnson, a keen and skilful sportsman. The church, which is dedicated to St. Mary, is seated on the east side of the vibage. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the bishop of Durham, and is valued in the king's books at £21, 15*. l\d. Its rectory was appropriated to the priory of Tynemouth. Formerly, it had under it the chapels of Widdrington and Horton, which were separated from it in 1768. " Neubiggangg, Wodehorn, with Linmuwe and Hirst, its members, Haliweb, Lyn- ton, Ebington, with Cresswell and Hayden, its members," were in the time of Ed ward I. parcels of the barony of Hugh de Babol. Woodhorn Demesne is usuaby joined with Woodhorn in the returns of rates, &c. Cresswell is seated near the sea-shore, nine miles north-east from Morpeth, by a road which is now in an excebent state of repab. It contains two pubbc houses, and is chiefly inhabited by fishermen. The old family seat of the ancient famby of the Cresswebs was defended by a tower, and is now inhabited by mechanics. Cresjswell was one of the manors of the barony of Bywell, of which it was held by the ancient family of the Cresswebs ; Robert de Cresswell in the reign of kino- John, and Simon de Cresswell in the reign of king Henry III. It was held by Roo-er de Cresswell, 21 king Edward I. ; by Robert de Cressweb, in the reign of king Edward II. ; by Alexander de Cressweb, who was upon an inquest at Newcastle upon Tyne 12th February, 43 king Edward III. with Thomas de Eslington, Robert de Eland', Robert de Middleton, Richard de Crambngton, and John de Kilbngworth &c • also upon another at Corbridge, 25th June, 2 king Richard II. with Robert de Lowther William Shaftoe, John Lawson, Robert de Eland, and others ; by John de Cresswell in the reign of king Henry V. ; by George de Cressweb, in the reign of king Henry WOODHORN PARISH. 127 VI. ; by Robert de Cressweb, in the reign of king Henry VII. who married Eliza beth, the daughter of Thomas Lord Lumley, by Elizabeth Plantagenet, daughter of king Edward IV. by the Lady Elizabeth Lucy ; by Oswin de Cresswell, in the be ginning of the reign of queen Ebzabeth ; and by John de Cressweb, in the beginning of the reign of king James I. It was afterwards held by John de Cresswell, who had three sons, viz. Ephraim, Oswald, and Wibiam, the last of whom purchased Cresswell of his two brothers, who died without issue. He was succeeded by his son William, who left a son of the same name, father of John Cresswell, Esq.* The latter left se veral sisters, one of whom married Mr. Addison, a rich merchant at Stockton. An other married a relation of Mr. Addison's, and had the present possessor, Addison John Cressweb, but who has since taken the name of Baker, from Mrs. Cresswell Ba ker's family, by whom he has acquired considerable property. He served the office of high sheriff of this county in 1822. He is highly esteemed by his tenantry, and much beloved by the neighbouring poor. Francis Cresswell, Esq. his brother, is a barrister at law. Wibiam Cresswell, Esq. the last of the name, built the family residence ; but the present spbited proprietor has commenced the erection of a new seat, which, when finished, wib rival in taste and magnificence the best in the county. The scite chosen is an eminence, not far from the vibage, and nearly a mile from the sea. It commands an extensive prospect of the sea-coast, and of the highly cultivated country in the in terior ; but the house wbl be sheltered from the bleak winds of the north and east by extensive plantations. This costly erection is under the superintendence of Mr. Green, of Newcastle. The stones are very massive, many weighing from one to seven tons ; and the workmanship seems to be of the best description. The adjoining gar dens are large, and kept in excebent order ; and when the main building, with the out-offices, are finished, the whole wib combine ab the elegancies and conveniences of an Engbsh gentleman's residence. Ellington stands about 1^ mbe south-west from Cressweb. It contains two farmsteads, two pubbc houses, and several houses for labourers, mechanics, and trades men. Part of the township belongs to A. J. Cressweb Baker, Esq. and part to Adam Askew, Esq. of Redheugh, in the county of Durham. Linmouth lies on the banks .of the Line, between Woodhorn and Cresswell, and near a mile from the sea. It is the property of Ralph Atkinson, Esq. of Newcastle. On Thursday the 8th of August, 1822, a large whale of the spermaceti kind, cabed by naturalists the Macrocephalus, or blunt-headed Cachelot, came on shore at the mouth of the Line. On being first descried, it was boldly attacked by a party of fishermen and workmen employed in building Cresswell new hab, and was finaby kibed by a harpoon made at the time by one oi the blacksmiths. Previous to this, it is supposed to have been wounded by some of the projecting rocks on this coast. It measured 61 feet in length, and 37 feet 4 inches in circumference ; breadth of the tab, 14 feet 6 inches ; across the head, 10 feet 9 inches ; from the eyes, which were * William Cresswell held Cresswell, 1741 ; and William Cresswell, of Reedhouse, held lands at Cresswell, same year. John Cresswell, of Cresswell, occurs in 1774. 128 MORPETH WARD— E. D. very smab, to the nose, 21 feet ; and its height, as it lay upon the shore, 12 feet. The upper jaw projected 5 feet beyond the under one : in the latter were two rows of ivory teeth ; in the upper jaw were no teeth, but cavities to receive those of the under jaw. On the top of the nose, near the tip, was an air-hole. There were only two fins on each side, and which were placed 3 feet behind the eyes, but rather lower. It produced 9 tons and 158 gabons of oil. This valuable fish was claimed both by Mr. Cresswell Baker and Mr. Ralph Atkinson ; but the dispute was terminated by the Admbalty seizing it as a droit of the crown. Before this great fish was cut up, it was visited by the curious from all quarters, who arrived in crowds, on foot, in coaches, gigs, steam-boats, &c. all of whom were gratified in viewing the vast inhabitant of the deep. Hurst stands one mile south-west from Woodhorn. Hurst Castle was one of the ancient, strong, fortified dwellings, so common in this county. There were formerly many smab freeholds at this place, but the greater part is now the property of Wil- bam Lawson, Esq. The Duke of Portland has also lands in this township. North Seaton is pleasantly situated one mile south of Woodhorn, and at a short distance from the sea. It is the property and residence of Wibiam Watson, Esq. and is a fertile and agreeable place. NEWBIGGIN PAROCHIAL CHAPELRY. This chapeby is but of smab extent. It consists of a peninsula, which stretches into the sea, at a short distance east from Woodhorn. In 1821, it contained 82 dwebing-houses, and 434 inhabitants. The Methodist Sunday-school is web attended. Newbiggin, or Newbiggin near the Sea, as it is usuaby cabed, to distinguish it from the other places of that name in the interior parts of the county, is situated on the sea-shore, on the south side of the peninsula. It consists chiefly of one irre gular street, in which are some tolerably good houses, with four inns and pubbc houses, and several shops for the sale of necessary articles. This place is much fre quented in the summer season, for the convenience of bathing. Fish of different kinds is here very plentiful : besides supplying the home demand, there is almost a daily supply hence to Newcastle market. The fishermen of this place are a bold and industrious set of men, and are often exposed to fatal accidents* Here are several granaries, as corn is occasionally shipped in vessels of about 60 tons burden. The bay is safe and capacious, formed by two promontories of freestone, with a fine sandy bottom, and in which ships can ride in seven or eight fathoms of Water. The chapel, which is dedicated to St. Bartholomew, stands on the north side of the haven, on a * On the 14th of January, 1801, the crews of five fishing boats, consisting of nineteen men, belonging to this place and to Blyth and Hartley, perished at sea, by a sudden tempest from the north-east. The sum of 1701Z. was promptly subscribed, chiefly in Newcastle and its neighbourhood, for the relief of their widows, orphans, and dependents, consisting of 90 persons. The distribution of this charity was intrusted to a com* mittee of gentlemen, who discharged the trust with care and judgment. WIDDRINGTON PAROCHIAL CHAPELRY. 129 point of land which projects a considerable way into the sea ; and it is said there are the remains of a pier there. This church was formerly a much more considerable edifice than at present, the middle aisle and steeple, with a spire, only now remaining ; which circumstances give rise to an idea, that Newbiggin and its haven were in some former age of considerably more importance. Here is the effigy of a knight templar. The ornament of the altar seems to have been a devoted gift by some seaman who had escaped the perils of the ocean, being the king's arms carved in wood from the stern-piece of a ship. At the west end of the chapel is a smab gabery. The spire is a mark to seamen, of great use to ships coming from the North and Baltic Seas, as a direction for their southward course. From the church-yard there is an extensive and beautiful prospect. WIDDRINGTON PAROCHIAL CHAPELRY. This chapeby lies between the parishes of Woodhorn and Warkworth, having the sea on the east, and comprizes an area of 4142 acres. It contains 73 dwelbng-houses, and 388 inhabitants. There is a school at the village of Widdrington, attended by from 30 to 40 children. The master, on presenting annuaby a certificate of good conduct, receives from Lady Bulkley a gift of £ 15. Widdrington, or Woodrington, i. e. the town in a wood, is pleasantly situated in the midst of a fine country, about nine miles north by east from Morpeth, and above one mbe from the sea. It contains two good farm-houses, one public house, and 31 cottages, inhabited chiefly by mechanics and labourers.* The chapel has been much larger in former times. The bving is in the gift of the proprietor of the manor. Near the vibage is a smab Presbyterian meeting-house ; and, at a short distance, a colbery, where three or four men are employed. The principal seam is one foot in thickness, and 12 fathoms deep. Widdrington Castle was a fine structure ; being seated on an eminence, com manding an extensive sea prospect, and a land view as far as Tynemouth Castle, The park, which included the farm of Houndylaw, and consisted of 600 acres of fine land, was richly clothed with wood within the memory of many of the present inha bitants. The most ancient part of the castle was a Gothic tower, finished with ma. chicolations, and four round turrets, built on double tiers of corbules. There is a good view of it, taken by S. and N. Buck, in 1728. It was burnt down about 40 years ago. The present edifice, which is now uninhabited, was built by Sir George Warren. It is a slight, fantastical, insulated building, possessing neither grandeur nor convenience. The centre tower is octangular and embattled ; but the whole building is much in want of repair. Widdrington Castle was the seat of the ancient and worthy family of the Wid- dringtons, who often signabzed their valour in the wars against the Scots, and long * Mr. Robert Reed, an industrious chapman, who died here in May, 1821, was well known for his supe rior management of bees. He could reduce these useful insects to a state of complete discipline ; and fre quently exhibited, in Morpeth market, a whole swarm suspended from his hand ! vol. ii. 2 K 130 MORPETH WARD— E. D, flourished in high repute in Northumberland. Widdrington was the manor of Gerard de Widdrington, 1 king Edward III. ; and of Sir Roger de Widdrington, high sheriff of Northumberland, 36 king Edward III. John de Plessis sold him the manor of Plessis, and the vibage of Shotten. His son and heir, Sir John de Wid drington, was high sheriff of Northumberland, 22 king Richard II. the 11 king Henry IV. and the 4th and 8th king Henry VI. His successor, Sir Roger de Wid drington, served in the same high office three times during the same reign, Gerard de Widdrington was high sheriff of Northumberland, 5 king Edward IV. ; and John de Widdrington filled the honourable station for three successive years, in the reign of the same king. An inquisition was taken of the estate of Sir John Widdrington, 10 queen Eliza beth. He was high sheriff of the county, 32 king Henry VIII. the 6th king Edward VI. and 1st queen Elizabeth. He married Elizabeth, the daughter of Sir Hugh Tre- vannion, who survived him, and married Sir Robert Cary, Lord Warden of the Mid dle Marches, afterwards created Earl of Monmouth, by whom he had two sons and one daughter. Her eldest son was made Knight of the Bath at the creation of Charles, prince of Wales, and married the daughter of Lionel Cranfield, afterwards Earl of Middlesex, and treasurer of England. Her daughter married the eccentric Duke of Wharton, as Lord Orrery styles him. Her ladyship and the Lord Warden lived at Widdrington, which was her jointure, and at her death it came to Sir Henry Widdrington, who was a deputy- warden of the Middle Marches under his lordship. His other deputy was Sir Wilbam Fenwick. To one he assigned the government of Redesdale, and to the other that of Liddesdale ; with each six horsemen to attend them, out of his own appointment, which was 40. The Borderers were remarkably peaceable under their government, after a few examples being made of the boldest thieves. His deputy, Sir Henry Widdrington, was high sheriff of Northumberland, 21 queen Ebzabeth, and 3 king James I. and a representative for it in parbament. 1, 12, 18, king James I. ; and was succeeded by Sir Wibiam Widdrington. Sir William was high sheriff of Northumberland, 12 king Charles I. and a repre sentative for it in parliament, 15th, 16th, and 17th of the same reign, with Sir Henry Percy. He and Sir Wibiam Carnaby and Sir Patricius Curwen were three of the 56 members who voted for saving the life of the Earl of Strafford. Sir Wibiam and his friend, Mr. Herbert Price, member for Brecon in Wales, were committed to the Tower, for having candles brought into the house without a general order, 189 voice* against 172. He was expelled the house, 26th August, 1642, for refusing to attend it, and for raising forces in defence of his majesty, who created him Baron Widdring ton of Blankney, 10th November, 1643. After the battle of Marston Moor, he re tired beyond seas with his noble friend, the Lord Marquis of Newcastle, and others ; and his estate was sequestered by the parliament. On the march of his majesty, king Charles II. to Worcester, his lordship staid be hind at Wigan, in Lancashire, with the Earl of Derby, and many loyal gentlemen, about 200 horse, with a design of taking the country volunteers along with them, where they were surprised by a party of the parliament-forces at the dawn of the morning, and after a gallant display of valour, were either slain or taken prisoners. Among the former was Lord Widdrington, who disdained to take quarter. ULGHAM PAROCHIAL CHAPELRY. 131 " His lordship," says Lord Clarendon, " was one of the goodliest persons of that age, being near the head higher than most tall men, and a gentleman of the best and most ancient extraction of the county of Northumberland, and of a very fair fortune, and one of the four which the king made choice of to be about the person of his son the prince, as gentleman of his privy chamber, when he first settled his family. His affection to the king was always most remarkable. As soon as the war broke out, he was of the first who raised both horse and foot at his own charge, and served emi nently with them under the Marquis of Newcastle, with whom he had a particular and entire friendship. He was very nearly abied to the marquis, and by his testi mony that he had performed many signal services, he was about the middle of the war made a peer of the kingdom." Lord Widdrington married Mary, the daughter and sole heir of Sir Anthony Tho- rald, of Blankney, in Lincolnshire, knt. by whom he had a son, William Lord Wid drington, who was one of the council of state upon the restoration of the parbament by General Monk. He was succeeded by his son, William Lord Widdrington, who by marriage acquired an additional estate of £12,000 per annum. His lordship's real and personal estate, valued, as set forth in his petition to the parliament, 4th Decem ber, 1722, at above £100,000, came to the crown by his attainder in 1715, and was sold for the public use. He did not suffer with Lord Derwentwater, but was most graciously pardoned. His brother, P. Widdrington, was aid-de-camp to General Forster. The estate at Widdrington was first sold to the York Building-Company, who paid annual interest for the principal, which they could not afterwards pay ; in consequence of which it was recovered by government. It was again sold, and pur chased by Sir George Revel. He left it to his only daughter, who married Sir George Warren, K. B. who also left an only daughter, Lady Bulkley, the present possessor, and widow of the late Viscount Bulkley. Linton and Druridge are included in this chapelry. The latter place stands on the coast. Wallis thought that Druridge signified a grove of oaks ; from which he inferred, that the Druids performed their awful rites in the gloomy recesses of this place ; but Hedley observes, that in old writings it is always spelt Dryrigg, which is of very obvious derivation. There is a fine bay for small craft a little to the north, cabed Druridge Bay. Chibborn, which lies at a short distance from this place, is a very old strong building, which has been moated round ; and the rivulet which passes it could easily be diverted into the ditch in times of danger. ULGHAM PAROCHIAL CHAPELRY. Ulgham chapelry is bounded on the west and north-west by Hebron, on the north by Warkworth, on the east by Widdrington and Woodhorn, and on the south by Bothal parish. It extends about 3-| miles from north to south, and nearly 1^ mbe from east to west ; and contains 70 inhabited houses, and 348 inhabitants. The soil in some parts is tolerably good, and in others extremely poor and unproductive. There is a day-school in the vibage, attended by 32 scholars. Miss Ann Coward, of Hadstone Link House, who died this year, bequeathed £20 to the poor of this chapelry. 132 MORPETH WARD— E. D. Ulgham. — This vibage is agreeably situated on the south side of the river Line, about 5 miles north-east by north from Morpeth, and above 4 mbes west from the sea. It contains four farm-steads, two public houses, and cottages inhabited principaby by persons employed in husbandry. The chapel, which is dedicated to St. John, belongs to the rectory of Morpeth. This place anciently belonged to the Greystock family. The lady of Robert Lord Greystock, who died 2 Edward II. had for her dowry an assignation of this manor and several others. It is now the property of Lord Carlisle, and of Mr. John Swal low of Ashington. Ulgham Grange is situated half a mile north-east from Ulgham. The handsome farm-house and out-offices occupied by Ralph Fenwick, Esq. stands on the summit of an abrupt eminence, which rises from the north side of the Line. The banks of this smab river present several striking and picturesque views near this place. Above the mib, the coal is seen basseting out of the sides of the banks. The Grange is the pro perty of Earl Grey. Stobswood, from the Anglo-Saxon stub, or stobbe, the stump of a tree ; and Nor wood, or Northwood, form the northern division of this chapeby. Both these places are the property of Lord Carlisle. BOTHAL PARISH. This parish is bounded on the east by Woodhorn, on the north by Ulgham, on the west by Hebron and Morpeth, and on the south by the river Wansbeck. It extends about 3 miles from east to west, and about the same distance from north to south. In 1821, it contained 124 houses and 658 inhabitants. There is a school at Bothal, conducted on Dr. Bell's plan, at which about 70 children are instructed. The master receives £2, 16*. left by a former rector, the Rev. Mr. Stafford, in 1716 ; £10 per an num, given by the Duke of Portland, with a house and garden ; and a quarterage of 2*. from each scholar. There are two other day-schools in the parish, at which above 50 children are educated. The rector mentioned above left, at the same time, the interest of £40 to the poor of the parish. Bothal. — This small but ancient vibage is seated in the midst of a romantic and beautiful amphitheatre, at a little distance north of the Wansbeck, the banks of which are richly adorned with fine hanging woods. It is about 3 miles east from Morpeth, and contains one public house and a few cottages. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew. The mother church, it is said, stood formerly at Sheepwash. This has three handsome aisles, the windows are neat, and the wabs have a solemn appearance, being hung with scripture sentences, in black frames. On the south side of the chan cel, the genealogy of the Ogles, of whom there were seven lords and thirty knights, is painted in tablets on the wab, in old black letter. There is a fine alabaster tomb, in closed with rabs, of one of the Ogles and his lady, with their effigies recumbent.' - It is supposed they represent Sir Robert Ogle and his wife, the Baroness Bertram. His effigy is clothed in a coat of mail, the hands elevated, about his neck a chain, with a BOTHAL PARISH. 133 cross pendent on his bosom, his hair cut over his forehead and round by his ears, his head supported on his crest (a bull's head), his feet rested against a curled water dog. Her effigy is dressed in a long robe, which conceals her feet; over her head and shoulders a mantle flowing back, her hands elevated, her head supported by a cushion tassebed at the corners, kept by two esquires in their proper habiliments, each holding a tassel; on the lap of her robe a small Italian greyhound. A sword sheathed lies between these effigies. At the head of the tomb, in niches ornamented with taber nacle-work, are four ecclesiastics, their crowns shaven, and with hands elevated ; at a corner, an inclining shield, supported on the dexter side by a lion collared and chained, and on the sinister side by a monkey chained by the waist. The living of Bothal is a rectory, of which the king is patron. It is valued in the king's books at £25. The rectory-house is at Sheep wash, about two miles lower down the river, where the mother-church formerly stood. On the banks of the Wansbeck, near to Bothal, are the ruins of an ancient chapel or oratory, said to be dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The situation is admbably calcutated'for meditation, being in a shady solitude. By the arms on the wab, it ap pears 'to have been built by the family of Ogles. The erection was all of well-wrought freestone ; its dimensions within, eight yards in length, and four in breadth ; the roof, now faben into ruins and gone to decay, was curiously arched with stone, as appears by its remains. It is now grown over with trees, which have struck theu- roots into the joints and chasms, of the bubding. Bothal Castle. — The scite of this ancient building being very similar to others whicb^ the Romans chose for their stations, some antiquaries have indulged conjec tures respecting the occupation of this place by that people. Even Camden, for some time, thought that the Roman Glanoventa stood on the banks of the Wansbeck. Howevej this may be, Bothal, in later times, became the baronial seat of the renowned famby of Ogles. The environs of the castle are romantic and beautiful ; the banks of the river Wansbeck, which lie within a little distance to the south, being adorned with fine hanging woods. The castle is graduaby falling into decay, but enough re mains to attest the grandeur of its ancient state.* The fobowing description is given * The following extract is copied from a survey called the book of Bothool Baronrye, in Northumberland, most beautifully written, and in high preservation, the property of his grace the Duke of Portland, to whom that barony now belongs. It was taken the 20th day of June, 1576, by Cuthbert Carnabie, Robert Maddi- son, and John Lawson, tenants to that manor, by virtue of a commission granted by Cuthbert Lord Ogle, and directed to the afore-named Cuthbert Carnabie, Robert Maddison, Jacob Ogle, Esqrs. Anthony Ratcliffe and John Lawson, Gents, the whole 5, any 4, 3, or 2 of them. Dated at Bothole, the 6th day of May in the same year : " To this manor of Bothoole belongeth ane Castell in circumference cccclxxxx foote, wharto be longeth ane Castell, great chaulmer, parler, vij bed chaulmers, one galare, butterie, pantrie, lardenor, kit- chinge, backhouse, brewhouse, a stable, an court called the yethouse, wharein thare is a prison, a porter loge, and diverse faire chaulmering, an common stable, and a towre called Blanke Towre, a gardine, ane nurice, chapel, and an towre called Ogle's Towre and Pastrie, with many other prittie beauldings here not specified, faire gardinges and orchetts, wharin growes all kind of hearbes and flowres, and fine appiles, plumbes of all kynde, peers, damsellis, nuttes, wardens, cherries, to the black and reede, wallnutes, and also licores verie fyne, worth by the yeare XXI." — Antiq. Reper. ' vol. il— (27) 2 L 134 MORPETH WARD— E. D. mostly in the words of Mr. Hutchinson, who surveyed it with great attention, at a time when it was in a better state of preservation. The castle, though placed on a considerable eminence, yet stands bi a very deep vale ; hanging woods forming an amphitheatre at the distance of about half a mfle. Its present remains chiefly consist of the great gateway, flanked on the north side by two polygonal towers, 53 feet high ; and the south-west angle by a square turret, whose height measures 60 feet. From the towers of this gate the outward wall ex tends along the brink of the eminence, in a circular form, enclosing the area and inte rior bubding of the castle. This enclosure contains about half an acre, in which are some scattered fragments of the inner bubdings, now affording no degree of certainty what were their original form and use. To the north-west of the gateway was for merly another tower, pubed down within the memoiy of persons hving, which bore the denomination of Ogle's Tower. The scite of this castle to the south is very lofty, on the brink of a rock, whose foot is washed by the river : the east and west sides of the eminence have been defended by a moat. Mr. Grose, to his second plate of this castle, which chiefly represents the gateway tower, says, "The wood scene in the back-ground slopes to the water's edge, here and there skbted by picturesque rocks ; and in many places the trees overhang the stream, which here runs briskly, breaking against the huge stones plentifuby scattered throughout its channel ; at once capti vating the eye, and, by its gentle murmurs, sweetly soothing the ear. Indeed, the banks of the Wansbeck, between this place and Morpeth, afford a variety of sylvan scenes, equal in beauty to any in the kingdom." The gateway, with its towers, bears a certain appearance of being the most modern parts of this castle ; the architecture is excellent, and the edifice bubt of a durable stone, web drest, and in good preservation : the ascent from the town is easy and gra dual. The outward gate was defended by a portculhs : in the arching of the roof of the gateway are three square apertures, from whence the garrison could annoy the assailants, when they had gained the first gate ; a door on each hand leads to the flanking towers. On the right hand is a passage and staircase in the south-west tower ; at the foot of the stairs is a door into the prison, which is not so horrible an inclosure as most of those seen in baronial castles : it is above ground, and closely arched, having narrow apertures, bke loop-holes, to admit bght and air from the gate way passage. Opposite to these stairs, on the other side of the gateAvav, is a large hab. Passing the winding stairs, we entered the state-room, above the gateway : this apartment is lighted by four windows, none of them of any considerable size ; the principal one is to the north, in the centre : by means of the thickness of the wall, the recess formed for the window is benched with stone at the sides, with seats for six persons at least. From this window you view the town, the church, and a narrow vale, through which the river flows. On each side of this window is a door leading to the chambers of the flanking towers. The fire-place, of a very spacious range, is to the east, on the left side of which is another window with a recess, benched bke that before described. A third window, bke the two former, is to the right of the door as you enter, looking into the area of the castle ; a large window to the west commands the wider part of the vale, and the fine hanging woods by which it is bounded. Three large stones cover the apertures in the floor, which open upon the passage of the BOTHAL PARISH. 135 gateway. The upper rooms being more ruinous, are not so easy to describe, or their form capable of being ascertained. In the front of the gateway are several shields of arms arranged in the fobowing order : — In the centre, in a large shield, are the arms of England and France quarterly. It is observable that England takes the first quarter, a circumstance very uncommon. On the dexter side, a shield with the arms of England ; on the sinister, a shield with the arms of the Greys. This denotes that the erection was made in the time of Ed ward IV. whose consort was a Grey, mother of Thomas Grey, who, in the 15th year of that reign, was created Marquis of Dorset. Beneath, in the centre, the arms of Bertram. On the dexter and sinister sides of this are three shields, which denote the albances of the Bertram famby. The first, on the dexter side, the arms of Percy ; the second, of Dacre ; the third, of Vescy. The first, on the sinister side, of Darcy ; the second, of Hastings ; the third, two lions passant gardant in a tressure ; but to what famby this coat armour appertains, cannot easily be ascertained. On the tower on the right hand of the gateway are four shields, the chief of which is of the Ogles ; but they are greatly defaced by time, and do not seem to have any material relation to the date or history of this erection. It is thought that John Ogle, the grandson of the heiress of Bertram, and who assumed the name of Bertram, erected this gateway. In the centre, on the battlement, is the figure of a man, in stone, in the attitude of soundmg a horn ; on the right-hand tower is another figure, holding a bab between his hands : these figures are greatly injured by the weather. The gateway is the only part of this ancient building that now remains, and the outer walls, which are in a sad state of dilapidation. The best part of the ruins is deformed by a miserable shed. The adjacent fine sloping woods and picturesque rocks retain their natural beauties. Bothal lordship was possessed by Richard Bertram, who lived about the time of king Henry II. He being a devout man, gave two sheaves, or two-thirds of the tithes of this place, to the monks of Tynemouth. His son Robert obtained of king Richard I. that his manor, with its dependencies, should be raised to a barony ; and it is mentioned as such in that ancient record, remaining with the king's remembrancer in the exchequer, called Testa de Nevil, from its being compiled by Joban de Nevil, who was a justice itinerant in the 18th and 24th years of king Henry III. It con tains the king's fees through the greatest part of England, with inquisitions of lands escheated and serjean tries. This barony was held by Robert of the king in capite, by the service of three knights' fees, as his ancestors had formerly held it ; the said lands being de veteri feofmento, and paying yearly for the castle-guard at Newcastle upon Tyne for cornage, £5, 15*. 4-!<•••<»— WEST DIVISION. — *?¦??*•«+— MITFORD PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Longhorsley parish, on the west by Hart- burn parish and Meldon chapelry, on the south by Whalton and part of Morpeth parish, and on the east by a part of the latter parish and the chapelry of Hebron. Its form is irregular, being at its eastern extremity 5 mbes broad, whbe at the west ern it does not exceed 1^ miles. It extends 4 miles from east to west, and its area is estimated at 9000 acres. About 4400 acres are employed in tibage, 2000 acres are in grass and meadow lands, and the remainder is woodlands. The soil is various, but in general rich and fertile, and is web adapted for the cultivation of turnips. The farms are of a moderate size, and generally held from year to year. It is web watered by the rivers Wansbeck and Font ; and the general appearance of the lands is, in a high degree, beautiful and picturesque. Neither coal nor lime is wrought in the parish. A thin seam of coal has been discovered in the southern parts of the parish ; but eveiy attempt to establish a colliery has failed. Mitford parish is divided into eleven townships, two of which, Moseden and Edington, are in the west division of Castle Ward. The entire parish contains 128 dwelling houses and 625 inhabitants. The. annual value of property, in 1815, was £11,034. The poor have not sufficient rnieans of education, there beino- but two schools in the parish ; one at Throphib, and one lately established at Mitford,* each of which is attended by about 30 children. Mitford. — This delightful village is seated at the confluence of the Font and Wansbeck, distant 2^ miles west from Morpeth. The road leading from Morpeth to Elsdon passes through it,f and has a gentle ascent to the west. It is bubt in a strag- * This school was first formed by Mr. William Arthur, who is now master of Causey Park school. This ingenious young man, Mr. Matthew Thompson, and Mr. Bartholomew Harbottle, of Mitford, have furnished several curious particulars relative to this parish. t This road, which forms the line of communication between the western districts of the county and Mor peth, the greatest cattle-market in the north of England, crosses the Wansbeck twice within a mile of the town ! The fords being often impassable, much inconvenience and danger attend travelling, and many fatal accidents have happened. An act of parliament was obtained, several years ago, for carrying the road from MITFORD PARISH. 139 gbng manner, but contains several good houses, one of which is a public house. A flannel manufactory was formerly carried on here ; but the premises are now used for the manufacture of snuff. The old mansion-house is seated near the river, at a short distance north of the castle. The kitchen is occupied by the gardener ; but the greater part of the house was pubed down, about 1 2 years ago, by the present proprietor, who intended to erect an elegant mansion-house on the opposite side of the river. The work is at present suspended ; but a large quantity of excellent stone was prepared. It was procured from the bed of the river Font, and is susceptible of as fine a polish as marble.* An old tower, which formed the entrance into the mansion-house, is still standing. Above the famby arms is the date 1037, cut in relief. As the tower is evidently of a more modern style of architecture, it has been conjectured that the stone bearing this in scription was taken from the ruins of the castle. But the execution of the figures and letters can have no claim to any high antiquity ; and the writer thinks, that, by a near inspection, it wib be found that the real date is 1637, the upper part of the figure 6 being broken off, and the surface smoothed by cement. Mr. Mitford now resides in a small neat house, cabed Mitford Hib House. The church stands near the hall. It is an ancient building, and has formerly been of much greater extent. The roof has been supported in the middle by a row of pibars and arches, which, being wabed up, now form the south side of the church. There is a Saxon door at the south side of the chancel, and Saxon mouldings appear in se veral parts. The ground south and west of the church is raised by the ruins of the old fabric ; but, on digging, the floor is found entire, and covered with burnt tim-. ber. There is, indeed, no doubt of the old church having been burnt down, as many " here lyeth interred with- of the stones have evidently undergone in this molde, a generous and the action of fire. Perhaps its destruc- virtuous wight, whose tion was effected by the tyrant king John. dewe deserte cannot be The inhabitants complain of the church told, from slender skil unto being cold and uncomfortable ; but this his right, he was descended might be easby remedied by enlarging ad from a race of worshipful modernizing the east windows, cebing the1' antiquitie, loved he was roof, and erecting a partition between the in his life-space, of high body of the church and the west entrance. eke of low degree, rest In the chancel is a large mural monument bartram in this house of clay of freestone, erected over the tomb of one reuf'ley unto the latter day." of the Bertrams, with his arms in a concave square moulding, underneath which is the annexed curious inscription, well cut in capitals. Below is his effigy, rudely cut in relief; and on the edge of the cover are these lines : — Mitford to Morpeth in a direct line north ofthe river, by which means the fords would be avoided; but the execution of this useful design was abandoned, owing, as it is said, to the want of unanimity amongst the neighbouring gentlemen. * It is in agitation to finish the interior of the new Sessions-house at Morpeth with this beautiful stone, if it can be procured for the purpose. 140 MORPETH WARD— W. D. " Bartram to us so dutiful a Son if more were fit it should for thee be done, who deceased the 7th of October Anno Domini' 1622." Near the south side of the chancel is the following inscription : — " here lyeth INTERRED JULIA, DAUGHTER OF THE REV. MR. J. LAIDMAN, RECTOR OF WHALTON, AND CHRISTIAN HIS WIFE, THE DAUGHTER OF ROBT. MITFORD, LATE OF SEIGHILL, ESQ. WHO DYD YE 9TH OF APRIL, AND WAS BURIED YE llTH, ANNO DOMINI 1721." This church, with the impropriation and advowson, were granted by king Edward I. to Lanercost Priory, in Cumberland. The living is a discharged vicarage, valued in the king's books at £10, 6s. 8d. The bishop of Durham is patron. The vicarage- house adjoins the east end of the church-yard, and is a neat, commodious bubding. Here was anciently an hospital or free-chapel, dedicated to St. Leonard, founded by Sir Wibiam Bertram (who granted lands for founding Brinkburn Priory), and en dowed with lands for the maintenance of a chaplain. By an inquisition taken in the reign of king Edward III. it appeared that the abbot of Newminster possessed him self of these lands ; but king Richard II. obliged him to restore them, and nominated John de Wenhings chaplain. At the north end of the village, near the turnpike-gate, is a good stone bridge of one arch over the Font. It was anciently crossed by one higher up, leading to the church and castle, called the South bridge, and Fousebrigg, for the watching of which on the eve and on the day of the Ascension of our Blessed Lord, Walter de Swin- howe held 40 acres of land within the manor of Mitford, 51 king Edward III. Mitford Castle. — This ancient castle is seated on a considerable eminence, and its foundations rest upon a freestone rock. It has been defended on the south and west by a deep ditch ; and on the north the river Wansbeck washes the foot of the castle- hill. The works appear to cover about an acre of ground. The principal part of this fortress consisted of a circular tower raised upon an artificial mount, the chief eleva tion from the natural level being effected by arches of stone and vaults, which in an cient times were used as prisons, or places for concealment : the tower was defended by an outward wall, which run parallel with it, at the distance of about 10 feet. There is a very narrow prospect from this eminence, the vale is so shut in on every side. What other erections were within the walls of this fortress cannot be traced, the ruins are so confused, and most of them covered with grass. However, there is some reason for believing that the south-west part of the castle-yard had been occu pied by a chapel. It was certainly a place of sepulture iii very remote times, for, on digging here, quantities of human bones have been found deposited in rude coffins formed of loose flag-stones. Many fine plantations have been formed by Bertram Mitford, Esq. near the Wans beck, and which are in a very thriving condition. The banks, plantations, scars, lawns, vales, and waters, that surround this place, form the most beautifully varie gated scenery. The view from the park, though not extensive, is pecubarly interest ing. On the one hand are the venerable ruins of the famous old castle ; a little to the north stands the remains of the family mansion-house of the Mitfords, with the gardens and rookery; while the church and vicarage-house are seen peeping MITFORD PARISH. 141 through the trees. Beyond these, the vibage appears, straggling amongst the trees, banks, and precipices, that skirt the irregular bed of the Wansbeck ; a little further, the neat mansion of Spittle Hib crowns a fine eminence ; and the prospect is termi nated by a variegated and web cultivated country. The ancient and honourable Northumbrian family of Mitford were possessed of the viba and lordship, from which they derive their name, as early as the time of Ed ward the Confessor. This is proved by undeniable evidence. At the conquest, Sibil, the only daughter and heir of Sir John Mitford, was given in marriage by king Wibiam I. to Sir Richard Bertram, one of his Norman adventurers. By him she had issue two sons, Wibiam and Roger. Her eldest son, Sir Wibiam Bertram, succeeded to the manor and castle of Mitford and its dependencies, which were erected into a barony by king Henry I. He married Alice, the daughter of Sir Wilbam Merley, of Morpeth, by whom he had two sons, Roger and Robert. He was succeeded in his barony by his eldest son, Roger Bertram, who being desirous of improving his estate, paid a fine of 50 marks to king Henry II. for the privilege of a weekly market at Mitford. He was suc ceeded by his son Wibiam, whose barony was thus rated 8 king Richard I. viz. his manor of Gretham at 32*. ; his manor of Felton at 41s. ; his manor of Mitford at 41*. ; and his manor of Eland at 10*. ; ab of them branches of his barony. He died about the 8 king John, and left a son, Roger Bertram, in his minority. Peter de Brus obtained the wardship of his per son, with the custody of his land, tib he should be of full age, for 300 marks, and then there was taken a particular account of his barony, and all the members of it, appendages of his four great manors above-mentioned. This Roger being of age, and having bvery of his estate, 17 John, adhered to the confederate barons, then in arms, whereupon the Flemish troops, cabed Rutars* commanded by that inhuman ravager, in his northern depredations, seized the castle and destroyed the town of Mitford with fire and sword. The next year, probably whilst the castle remained in the king's custody, it was besieged by Alexander, king of Scotland ; but whether it was taken or not is not mentioned in the old chronicle wherein the circumstance is recorded. The barony of Mitford was given by the crown to Philip de Ulcotes ; but upon the king's demise, Bertram found means to make his peace with king Henry III. ; and for a fine of £ 100 obtained a restitution of his land, and afterwards grew into so much esteem with him, that he granted, on the payment of 10 marks, that his annual fair at * Rutar, Rutarjti, or Ruptarii, who are mentioned by our historians before and after king John's reign, in the times ofhis father, king Henry II. and his son, king Henry III. were (according to the best accounts we have of them) mercenary German troops, brought out of Brabant (as William Neubrigensis tells us) by Fulke de Brent, and Walter de Buc, great captains of the Low Countries, to king John's assistance. Brent was a fierce soldier, and making bold with the monastries and their treasures as they lay in his way, the monkish vhistorians call him " Praedo nequissimus," and a thousand other bad names, and at length procured his ba nishment out of the kingdom ; but Buc was a person of greater sobriety, and having done that king good service, had conferred on him, by his royal bounty, divers lands in Yorkshire and Northamptonshire, where his posterity flourished down to John Buck, who was attainted in the reign of king Henry VII. : yet his posterity grew up in honour, for his great grandson, Sir George Buck, knt. was master of the revels in the reign of king James I. VOL. II. 2 N 142 MORPETH WARD— W. D. Mitford should last eight days instead of four. He died 26 king Henry III, and was succeeded by his son, the third Roger Bertram, baron of Mitford. He was one of the northern barons who was sent by king Henry III. in the 42d year of his reign, to rescue Alexander III. king of Scotland, then in his minority (who had married Margaret, king Henry's eldest daughter), out of the hands of his rebebious subjects. After this, Roger appeared among the insurgents at Northampton, where he was taken prisoner, and his honour and castle of Mitford, with all his other lands, were seized for the king's use. The castle, and part of the castle demesnes, and two parts of the forest of Felton, were given by the queen dowager, mother of king Edward I. to Eleanor Stanover, the wife of Robert de Stotevibe, who died 34 king EdAvard I. and was succeeded by his son and heir. In the year 1316,* this castle was in the possession of one Gilbert Middleton, a free booter, who (says Stowe) after many injuries done to the priory of Tynemouth and other places, was taken here by Ralph Lord Greystock and others, and carried to London, and there executed. In the year 1318, it was taken by Alexander, king of Scotland, who dismantled it, and spoiled most of its fortifications. The entbe barony of Mitford was then the property of Adomer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. By the escheats of the 17th king Edward II. it appears this castle was in ruins, having been destroyed by the Scots. This earl seems to have had a divine interdict impending over him, and the imme diate vindictive hand of providence to have been upon him and his posterity for his atrocious deeds. He was a tool to his prince, and servbely submitted to the mandates of the crown, contrary to the dictates of honour, humanity, and justice. He sat in judgment on Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and unjustly acquiesced in his sentence. He was a chief instrument in apprehending the famous Scotch patriot, Wallace of Craiggy, in 1305, accomplishing his capture by corrupting his bosom friends, and by the treachery of his most intimate associates, and those in whom he placed his utmost confidence, Sir John Monteith and others of infamous memory. Adomer was thrice married ; on his third bridal day he was slain at a tournament, held in honour of his nuptials, and left a wife, at once a maiden, bride, and widow. It is said, that for se veral generations of this family, a father never was happy enough to see his son ; the proscribed parent being snatched off by the hand of death, before the birth of his issue. The unfortunate lady of Adomer de Valence was in her own right baroness of Veisser and Montenact, daughter of Guy Chatibon, Earl of St. Paul, in France, and his wife Mary, the daughter of John, the second Duke of Britanny and Earl of Richmond, by his wife Beatrix, the daughter of king Henry III. She was so affected with the loss of her husband, who made her joint executrix with others, that she re signed herself entirely to a rehgious and contemplative bfe, and bestowed most of her fortune on acts of piety and charity, raising her faithful friends above want and indi gence, and erecting noble structures in honour of religion and learning, with liberal endowments ; Denny Priory, in Cambridgeshire, for nuns of the order of St. Clare, * " There be ruines of a castle longynge to the Lord Borow, at Mydford, on the sowth syde of Wansbecke, iiii miles above Morpeth. It was beten downe by the kynge. For one Ser Gilbert Midleton robby'd a car dinal coming out of Scotland, and fled to his castle of Midford." — Lei. Itin. v. 7, p. 76. MITFORD PARISH. 143 being of her foundation, endowed with the manor of Stroud, in Kent, and other lands ; also Pembroke Hall, in Cambridge, mostly finished about the year 1347, and endowed with lands for a warden and fellows, some of whom she lived to see preferred to the highest dignities in England in the course of 40 years or upwards. She died 51 king Edward III. and was interred in her own priory of Denny, under a marble monu ment, between the two choirs of the nuns and seculars. She survived her husband 61 years, part of whose barony of Mitford was assigned to her for life. His lordship's heirs were John de Hastings, and John Comin, of Badenagh, whose sister, Johanna, married David de Strabolgy, Earl of Athol. This lady and her sister, Elizabeth Co min, shared their father's property in Mitford. The Earl of Athol died 1 king Ed ward III. and was succeeded by his son, David de Strabolgy, Earl of Athol, at the age of 18, who died 49 king Edward III. leaving two daughters, both in their minority. Elizabeth, the eldest, married Sb Thomas Percy ; and Johanna, the other, his brother, Sir Ralph Percy. Johanna having no heirs by Sir Ralph, the entire barony of Mitford, and the Athol estate, came to her sister's son, by Sir Thomas, viz. Sir Henry Percy, Lord of Athol, who died 11 king Henry VI. and left two daughters and coheirs, viz. Ebzabeth, aged 20 years, and Margaret, aged 17 years. The eldest sister, Elizabeth, first married Thomas Brough, Esq. by whom she had one son, Thomas. She afterwards married Sir Wibiam Lucy, knt. She died 34 king Henry VI. and was succeeded in her mediety of the barony of Mitford by her son and heb, Thomas Brough, Esq. at the age of 24. The younger sister, Margaret, first married Sir Henry Grey, knt. Lord Grey, by whom she had one son, Henry. She afterwards married Sir Richard Veer, knt. She died 4 Edward IV. and was suc ceeded in her mediety of the barony of Mitford by her son and heb, Sir Henry Grey, knt. at the age of 28 years. The castle and manor of Mitford were in the possession of Lord Brough in the reign of king Henry VIII. ; and of William Lord Brough, 4 queen Mary, who in that year granted to Cuthbert Mitford, and to his son Robert, for ever, all his lands at Mitford, reserving only to himself the scite of the castle, and the royalties ;* which castle and royalties were in the crown in the reign of king James I. who granted them to James Murray, Earl of Annan ; and being in the crown again in the reign of king Charles II. they were granted by his majesty to Robert Mitford, Esq. He married Jane, the daughter of John Mitford, of Seghib, Esq. by whom he had three sons, Cuthbert, John, and William ; also four daughters, viz. Barbara, married to George Fenwick, of Long Shawes ; Eleanor, to Daniel Cobingwood, of Brampton ; Margaret, to Nicholas Heron, of Mekion ; Isabeb, to Richard Rowmotherley, Esqrs. His son, William, was fellow of Clare Hab, in Cambridge, and afterwards rector of Kirby- over-Carr, in Yorkshire. His second son, John, lived at Mitford. He was succeeded by his eldest son and heir, Cuthbert Mitford, Esq. who married Mary, the daughter of Christopher Wharton, of Offerton, in the county of Durham, Esq. by whom he had one son, Robert. They both died in one day, at Mitford. Their son and heir, Robert Mitford, Esq. who died in 1674, married Philadelphia, one of the daughters of * In the 2d Elizabeth, 1560, the queen granted to Matthew Ogle the rectory of Mitford, to hold as ofthe manor of East Greenwich. 144 MORPETH WARD— W. D. Humphrey Wharton, of Gilbngwood, in Yorkshbe, Esq. by whom he had seven sons and six daughters, viz. Humphrey, Cuthbert, John, Edward, Robert, Wibiam, Mi chael, Barbara, Mary, Philadelphia, Ann, Eleanor, Elizabeth. He was succeeded by his eldest son and heir, Humphrey Mitford, Esq. who married Frances, the daughter of Sir George Vane, of Long Newton, in the bishoprick of Durham, by whom he had Robert Mitford, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland 9 king William III. 1697, and was succeeded by his son and heb, Robert Mitford, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland 9 George I. 1723. He was succeeded by Bertram Mit ford, Esq. whose successor, Bertram Mitford, Esq. died in 1800. He married, No vember 23, 1775, the daughter of Francis Johnson, M. D. of Newcastle, and sister of the late Alderman Johnson, by whom he had issue, 1. Bertram Mitford, Esq. the present proprietor of Mitford ; 2. Robert, a captain in the royal navy ; 3. George, who resides abroad; 4. Mary Ann, married to the late Joseph Atherton, Esq. of Walton Hab, Yorkshire, a colonel in the army; 5. Lewis Tabitha, married to Pri deaux Selby, Esq. of Twizell House ; 6. Frances, married to George Hutton, Esq. of Carlton House, near Newark upon Trent ; and, 7. Jane, married to Phbip Meadows Taylor, Esq. Spittle Hill House, at the east end of Mitford, is a handsome modern-bubt hall, which occupies the scite of St. Leonard's hospital, before mentioned. It stands upon the summit of a fine steep green hib, which is washed on the south by the Wansbeck, and on the west by the Font. At the bottom of the hib, adjoinmg the latter river, stands a fine rookery, and another shelters the house from the northern blasts. This place, from its elevated situation, commands an extensive and most de lightful prospect. The late proprietor, Wibiam Bullock, Esq.* married Mary Ann, * William Bullock, Esq. was a keen and skilful sportsman, and always kept a small but choice and valua ble pack of hounds. So excellently were they trained, that, like the slough-dogs of the Borderers, they could trace out a thief through all his turnings and windings. One morning, for amusement, Mr. B. pursued a young man, who, according to the custom of the country, had spent the night in sweet dalliance with his mistress, and discovered him in a wood at some distance. The girl, however, was greatly offended, and all the fair maids in the neighbourhood espoused her cause, and refused to hire to the waggish sportsman, but on the express condition that their sweethearts should be permitted, agreeably to ancient usage, to visit them unmolested. Whenever a hen-roost was robbed, geese killed, or any other depredation committed by Reynard in the neighbouring country, Mr. B. was always applied to, and seldom failed to exterminate the nocturnal robber. At one time, a most extraordinary instance occurred of the quality of two of his fox-hounds. He threw off his pack on a covert near this place, when, on beating the bushes, a fox was unkennelled on the flank ofthe rear hounds. They doubled upon him with their usual eagerness, and after a spirited chace lost his tract; but the two leading hounds were missing, and they neither came up at the voice of the huntsman nor the sound of the bugle. The fox took towards Rothbury Forest, where it was seen, followed by the hounds. Here it appears he was headed off, when he directed his course to a stronghold on Simonside Hill, from whence, being still pursued, he run northward, and crossed the Coquet at Cragend, where he expected to find an asylum. Being again disappointed, he made towards Thornton Crag, where he was equally unsuc cessful : he then stretched across the country towards Cheviot. A shepherd, on the skirts of that mountain (in the evening), heard the cry of hounds at a distance, and shortly after saw a fox coming towards him at a slow pace, and two hounds a few yards behind him, running abreast, and alternately chaunting in a feeble MITFORD PARISH. 145 daughter of John Mitford, Esq. Having no issue, at his death the estate devolved on his nephew, Thomas Thompson, Esq. who died in the year 1821, and was suc ceeded by his brother, Robert Thompson, Esq. of Morpeth. They both, on obtaining the estate, took the sirname of Bullock. The relict of William* Bullock, Esq. occupies the hab. Newton Park stands on the north bank of the Font, about one mile north-west from Mitford. It is the property of Wibiam Mitford, Esq. the elder brother of Lord Redesdale. He occasionaby resides here during the summer months. The situation is naturaby fine ; but the house is old, and exhibits such a patched appearance as forms a striking contrast with the refined taste of the proprietor. John Mitford, the third son of Robert Mitford, Esq. of Mitford, who died, aged 66 years, in 1674, became a London merchant. He married Sarah, daughter and co-heir of Henry Poweb, of London, merchant. He died in 1720, and was buried at Bow, in Westminster. His eldest son, Wibiam Mitford, Esq. of Newton, and Gilbury House, in the county of Hants, died in 1747, having married Margaret, daughter of Robert Edwards, Esq. of Wingfield, in Berks. He was succeeded by his son, John Mitford, barrister-at-law, who died in May, 1761. He married Philadelphia, daugh ter of Wibiam Revely, of Newby, Esq. by whom he had issue two sons, Wibiam and John* key. The man confined his cur, and stood stationary till they came up to the fox, which they tumbled down and fell upon, but were unable to worry. The spectator then sprung to the spot, took Reynard by the brush, and pulled him forward, in order to dispatch him, but he was already at the point of expiring. As soon as the hounds were a little recovered, he gave them some pieces of bread, and then conveying them to his cot tage, entertained them with the best viands his cupboard could afford. He had them called at Wooler mar ket and the neighbouring churches, but no person claiming them, they continued under his hospitable roof until Mr. B. accidentally heard of their place of residence, when he instantly recovered his two favourites, and liberally rewarded tbeir kind host. The zig-zag course they had run in the chace was computed at upwards of 70 miles ; and what is remarkable, the fox seemed perfectly well acquainted with all the strongholds in this passage. This skilful sportsman's matchless breed of hounds was kept untainted by his heir, the late Thomas Bullock, Esq. Since his death, they have been disposed of to the Northumberland Hunt, ex cept a few aged favourites, that are allowed to range about their old haunts. * John Mitford, the second son, now Baron Redesdale, of Redesdale, in the county of Northumberland, F. R. S. and F. S. A. was born in 1748. After receiving an excellent education at Oxford, he determined to follow the profession of his father. He soon rose to eminence at the chancery bar, and, in addition to great wealth, obtained a silk gown, with all the advantages arising from the office of king's council. He afterwards had the honourable appointment of a Welch judge conferred on him, and in the mean time obtained a seat in the House of Commons. ¦ In 1791, he was appointed solicitor-general, and obtained the official appendage of knighthood. He distinguished himself in the famous state trials that followed the French Revolution, and uniformly supported the administration of Mr. Pitt. In 1801, he was elected Speaker ofthe House of Com mons, and in a few months he was invested with the important office of Lord High Chancellor of Ireland, on which occasion he was raised to the peerage, by the title of Baron Redesdale, of Redesdale, in Northumberland. His lordship resided in Ireland until March, 1 806, when Mr. George Ponsonby was appointed his successor. The manner of his dismissal, though certainly intended to gratify the Irish Catholics, was rather too indeli cate to obtain their approbation. He retired with a pension of 4000/. per annum. When first called to the bar, he wrote the tract, entitled, " Mitford's Forms and Practice of the Courts." Even at the present time, VOL. II. 2 O 146 MORPETH WARD— W. D. William Mitford, Esq. of Exbury, in the county of Hants, and proprietor of New ton Park, was born February 10, 1743. He became early inspired with an ardent taste for ancient literature, and, what is perhaps singular, united a knowledge of whatever was valuable in the arts and sciences, with the profession of arms. He is known as the author of several valuable essays ; but his great work is a classical his tory of Greece, which has acquired the applause of the ablest and soundest critics. He first became a member of the legislature in 1796 ; and the colonel of the South Hants has frequently opposed the military schemes of administration, defended the constitutional establishment of the militia, and recommended a salutary jealousy rela tive to a standing army in this country. He married, in 1766, Francis, daughter of James Melloy, Esq. of Dublin, by whom he had issue, 1. Wibiam Mitford, some time lieutenant of the Royal Fusbiers, who died in 1790, unmarried ; 2. Henry Mit ford, a captain in the royal navy, married at Antigua, in 1796, Louisa, daughter of Anthony Wyke, Esq. attorney-general of Montserrat, by whom he had issue ; he was lost at sea ; 3. John Mitford, of the Inner Temple, barrister at law ; 4. Bertram Mit ford, barrister at law, married, 1806, Frances, daughter of John Vernon, Esq. of Dublin ; 5. Charles Mitford, died in infancy ; and, 6. Frances, a daughter, who died aged 12 years. Newton Under Wood stands on a fine plain, at an equal distance from the two rivers, which are here about a mile asunder, and 1^ mile west-north-west from Mit ford. There is an old arch here, which is carefully preserved by the owner, William Mitford, Esq. It appears to be the remains of an ancient tower. There are some thriving plantations of oak in the old woodlands of Newton. The west part of this township belongs to Robert Bullock, Esq. Throphill, from Throp, a vibage, and hill, meaning the vibage on the hill, is a small village occupied by farmers and their labourers, and is distant 3 miles west by north from Mitford. It stands- upon a considerable eminence, as its name indicates, and commands an extensive prospect to the east, over a web cultivated country, stretching to the sea ; while to the north and west the view includes Shaftoe Crags, Wabington, Tosson Hills, and the majestic Cheviot. This estate, which comprizes 1300 acres, is the property of William Mitford, Esq. Nunriding* is situated about 3 miles north-west from Mitford. The house, cabed Wood Hall, is a large building, and was formerly the residence of a branch of though in no official situation, he is eminently useful in the House of Lords in appeal cases. His lordship, in 1 803, married Frances Perceval, daughter of John, second Earl of Egmont (by Catharine, in her o wn ri "ht Baroness Arden of Lohert Castle, sister of Spencer Compton, eighth Earl of Northampton), and by her (who died in 1817) has issue, John Thomas, born September 9, 1805; Frances Elizabeth, born April 11, 1804; and Catharine, who is dead. * The Rev. A. Hedley, in a communication to the Society of Antiquarians of Newcastle upon Tyne, says, " There are no fewer than seven places of this name in this county. Tn searching for its etymon, the York shire Ridings naturally present themselves ; but Riding there is a corruption of Thridding, signifying the MITFORD PARISH. 147 the family of the Fenwicks. It stands on the south side of the Font, and the Nun Burn passes its front, over which is a small bridge. It is now occupied by the farmer •of the estate. The abrupt banks of the Font at this place are beautifully overhung with wood. It is the property of Thomas Fenwick, Esq. of London.* Pigdon stands on the north side of the Font, and is distant 2 miles north-north west from Mitford. It contains two farmholds and a few cottages. Being built upon an eminence, it commands a fine view of the vales of the Font and Wansbeck. This estate, which contains 1093 acres, was the property of M. Milbank, Esq. but was lately purchased by Aubone Surtees, Esq. of Newcastle. Benridge is situated upwards of a mile north by west from Mitford. This town ship contains seven farmholds, with cottages for labourers, and is the property of the Earl of Carbsle. Heighley stands above two miles north-east from Mitford. West Heighley is the property of William Ord, Esq. of Whitfield Hall, M. P. ; and East Heighley of Wbliam Ord, Esq. of Nunnykirk. There is a public house at Heighley Gate. Espley is a commodious farmhold, pleasantly situated on a rising ground, 4 miles north by east from Mitford. Low Espley Hall is also an agreeable place, and is at present occupied by John Mitford, Esq. brother of the late Bertram Mitford, Esq. of Mitford. This gentleman is father to the author of the eccentric Johnny Newcombe of the Navy, and other ingenious works. During the late war, he performed many gallant feats under Lord Nelson. Robert, the eldest son, was born at Mitford in 1780, and died in 1818 at his house in Bath. Being destined for a commercial life, third part, i. e. of the county, and can have no relation to the Northumberland Ridings. Indeed, I gave up the word in despair, till I read Professor Magnuson's Dissertation upon the Runic inscriptions upon the gold ring found near Carlisle, which throws considerable light upon it. The inscription he thus translates : — ' This ring belongs to Earl Orme the trusty, of Ridong.' And upon Ridong the Professor observes — ' I, therefore, read Ridong, Redong, or Readong, the same as Reading, or Reding (yet in use), or Vidang, signifying campus sylvestris. We know that the Northmen, occupying Normandy, imposed new names, derived from their own language, upon the places of that country. And that the same thing was done by the first Danes who sub dued parts of England, is not at all improbable.' Professor Magnuson thinks it not unlikely, as Northumberland and Cumberland are conterminous counties that the ring in question belonged to Orme, Earl of Northumberland and Deira, who flourished about the years 941 and 942. The Danish chief probably lived at one of our Northumberland Ridings; a word, it would seem, of Scandinavian origin, still used as a local name in Denmark or Norway ; and which signifies, in English, a woody, uncultivated field or pasture, or whatever else may be thought a better translation of ' campus sylvestris.' " * April 8, 1577, 19 Elizabeth, Robert Beadnell held three messuages and appurtenances in Nunriding, viz. 80 acres of land, 60 acres of marsh, 100 acres of wood, 200 acres of pasture and moor, with appurtenances to the same, of the queen in capite. He died the 12th of August, 19 Elizabeth, leaving Robert, his son and heir, aged 10 years. Beadnell's pedigree is in the Herald's Office. George Beadnell and others, of Leming ton, or Lemadon, occur 1627, &c. 148 MORPETH WARD— W. D. he passed a few years at Mogadore and Madeira. He held several lucrative and confidential situations under the Irish government, while his noble relative, Lord Redesdale, was Lord High Chancellor of that country. In 1806, he returned to England, and was appointed Inspector of Accounts at the Audit Office in Somerset House. He married, in 1805, Letitia, daughter of Dr. Led wick the antiquary, and relict of William Lawrence, Esq. of Rose Brook, in Queen's County, Ireland, by whom he had issue. Mary Ann Mitford married the late Wibiam Bubock, Esq. of Spittle. Mary married — Ranshaw, Esq. of London. Mr. Mitford has other daughters, one of whom is married to Miles Bowker, Esq. of the Cape of Good Hope. Espley was the property of the late William Adams, Esq. but has been purchased by Messrs. Benjamin and William Thompson, of Morpeth. Molesdon is a smab village two miles south-west from Mitford. The Moles Burn passes the east end of the village, and enters the Wansbeck about half a mile further north. This manor was granted by the second David de Strabolgy, Earl of Athol, and Baron of Mitford, 43 king Edward III. to Sir John de Mitford, knight, descended from Matthew de Mitford, younger brother of Sir John de Mifford, whose only daughter and heir, at the conquest, married Sir Richard Bertram before-men tioned. He was high sheriff of Northumberland 3 king Henry IV. He died the 11th year of that reign, and was succeeded by his son, Wbliam de Mitford, who mar ried Margery, the daughter of Sir Robert Lisle, knight, and was high sheriff of North umberland, 5 and 6 king Henry V. He died 1 king Henry VI. and was succeeded by his son and heir, John de Mitford, at the age of 21 years, born 30 king Henry IV. He was a benefactor to the abbey of Newminster. He gave certain tenements in Newcastle upon Tyne to the chantry of St. Thomas, in the church of St. Nicholas, in that town. He died 35 king Henry VI. and was succeeded by his son and heir, John de Mitford, then 24 years of age. He was succeeded by Bertram de Mitford, father of Gawen de Mitford, who married the sister of Sir Thomas Forster, of Etherston, knt. He was succeeded by his son and heir, Cuthbert de Mitford, to whom John de Widdrington granted, 4 king Edward VI. his tenement and lands in Mitford, cabed our Lady's Land, from their being part of the possessions of Newminster Abbey. He was one of the commissioners for enclosures upon the Middle Marches, 6th of the same reign. He was succeeded by his son and heir, Robert de Mitford, who acqubed the castle and manor of Mitford by a grant from king Charles II. as before-mentioned. Molesdon belongs to Bertram Mitford, Esq. of Mitford. Edington lies about a mile south from the former place, and is the property of Sir C. M. L. Monck, Bart, of Belsay Castle, who has lately erected a convenient farmstead, with a thrashing machine, which acts by the wind. HEBRON CHAPELRY. This chapelry is bounded on the north by the parishes of Felton and Warkworth, on the east by the chapelries of Widdrington and Ulgham, on the south by Bothal and Mitford, and on the west by Longhorsley parish. It extends about 4| miles from north to south, and nearly 3 miles from east to west, and contains 111 houses HEBRON CHAPELRY. 149 and 564 inhabitants. There is a school at Hebron, the master of which has a house and £ 4 per annum from the Duke of Portland, with £ 3 from the rector of Bothal, for which he instructs seven children, and receives quarterage from about 30 others. Henry Ogle, Esq. founded a school at Causey Park bridge, on the east side of the post-road, and endowed it with a house, garden, and a small field, and £15 per annum, arising from land ; but the proprietor of the land charged with the annuity has some times withheld the same. To remedy this irregularity, the rector of Bothal suggests the propriety of making the minister and churchwardens trustees. Children who do not belong to the township pay a quarterage. The above Henry Ogle, Esq. also, by will dated 1761, left £140, which is vested in the minister and churchwardens, and the interest dbected to be distributed annuaby amongst the poor. Hebron, or, as it is sometimes written, Hebburn, is situated 3 miles north of Mor peth, and about half a mile east of the great post-road. It is a small but pleasant vil lage, containing two farmholds and a few cottages, and is the property of the Duke of Portland. The chapel, which belongs to Bothal rectory, is a small, neat, modern- built structure. A lofty hill, called Hebron Shaiv, stands about a quarter of a mbe north-west from the vibage. It commands an extensive and pleasant prospect, and was formerly used as an alarm beacon. In cutting down an ascent here, about 40 years ago, in order to make the road to a stack-garth more level, four cannon babs were found in the gravel, considerably below the soil : three of them weighed 12 lbs. each, and the other 24 lbs. No reasonable conjecture could be formed to account for their being there. Cockle Park Tower stands about one mile north of Hebron. In the time of Edward I. it was the mansion-house of a branch of the family of Bertrams, built ac cording to the fashion of most of the ancient capital dwellings in this county, as a stronghold not only for the family, but a place of security for the tenants with their flocks anS herds, at the times of the incursions of the Scots, or ravages by the banditti cabed the moss-troopers. The south part of the building was burnt down about 400 years ago, being set on fire by lightning. That part is now elegantly repaired, and inhabited by Mr. Bean, a respectable farmer. The Ogle arms in front of the build ing, supported by two antelopes collared and chained, are nearly obliterated. It has machicolations on the outside, and contains two very curious fire-places. It has an ciently been much larger towards the south, as appears by large remains of strong foundations, and fragments of arches between the old and new parts. In Speed's map it is cabed Cockley Tower, and is surrounded by a park. It has rather a naked appearance, being placed on a rising ground, and having no plantations near it, but has long been useful as a sea-mark. This place is also the property of the Duke of Portland, to whom it devolved, with the other dependencies of the Bothal estate. Tritlington is a small village, situated about If miles north-east of Hebron, and one mile east from the great post-road. The Line runs through the place. It con sists of two farmholds, the property of the Duke of Portland, and a few cottages. Here is an old hab, which has been nearly encompassed with excellent gardens ; but although the house is still partly inhabited, both it and the gardens are sinking rapidly VOL. il 2 P 150 MORPETH WARD— W. D. into decay. It formerly belonged to a family of the name of Thirkle. Near to this old building a neat little mansion-house was lately erected by Mr. John Sadler, who from a humble beginning has, by his agricultural knowledge and exemplary industry*, risen to opulence, and acquired a valuable estate here. Fenruther, another estate belonging to the Duke of Portland, bes between the Coldstream and Berwick roads, 2 miles north-west from Hebron. It offers bttle worthy of remark. Earsdon is situated east of the post-road, and about 3 miles north from Hebron. It consists of two farmholds, and a few indifferent cottages for labourers. There is a neat house here, occupied by Mr. Jackson, steward to the Duke of Portland, who belongs to the place. The township of Earsdon Forest lies north of this vblage. Causey Park is seated about half a mile west from the post-road, and near 7 miles north by west from Morpeth. It was one of the manors of the barony of Bothal, of which it was held by a younger branch of the family of Ogle, of Ogle Castle ; by — de Ogle, in the beginning of the reign of queen Elizabeth ; by John de Ogle, the 31st of the same reign, the initial letters of whose name are on the old tower, with the date of its erection, 1589 ; and whose wife, Catharine, lies buried under a flat stone in Bothal church, near a fine tomb of the Lords Ogle, with the following inscription : — " HERE LYETH CATHARINE THE WIFE OF JOHN OGLE, OF CAWSEY-PARK, ESQUIRE, DAUGHTER OF ROBERT WOODRINGTON, ESQUIRE, BY MARGARET HIS WIFE, AVHICH MARGARET WAS SISTER TO ROBERT THE 6TH AND TO CUTHBERT THE 7TH LOKD ogle, she died may 23, 1609." His son, James Ogle, Esq. is interred in the chancel of St. Andrew's church, in Newcastle upon Tyne, near the altar, under a marble monument with a Latin inscription. He was a decided royabst, and paid £324 to redeem his estate. He was succeeded by William Ogle, Esq. who left his estate to his son, Henry Ogle, Esq. Henry died without issue in the year 1761 ; when Causey Park devolved on his brother, Wilham Ogle, Esq. who died without legitimate issue. His widow, who married Bernard Shaw, Esq. possessed the estate ; but after her de cease, Colonel Wbliam Ogle, an illegitimate son of her first husband, obtained pos session of his property. He dying shortly after, without issue, the estate became the property of William Ogle Wallis, Esq. grandson to a sister of the above-mentioned Henry Ogle, by a gentleman named Wallis. On acquiring the estate, he took the additional name of Ogle. He was for some time lieutenant-colonel of the Northum berland militia. He died in 1804, without issue, when the estate came into the pos session of the present proprietor, Wibiam Ogle Wallis Ogle, Esq. who has issue* The seat stands pleasantly on a rising ground, surrounded with a highly cultivated country. The gardens are on a fine slope, bounded with handsome fish-ponds, and ornamented with lofty trees, all of which combine to render it an agreeable retire ment ; but the present proprietor does not reside here. In the hab a heavy old spear is hung up. The old servants of the famby are unacquainted with its history ; but * Humphrey, of this line ofthe family ofthe Ogles, was Dean of Hereford, and one ofthe society of Bra zen-nose College, Oxford, where he founded two scholarships in favour of the heirs of his brother Rop-er. LONGHORSLEY PARISH. 151 from the manner of its exhibition, and the care with which it is preserved, it has pro bably been wielded in some successful encounter, by one of the Ogle family. The chapel, which formerly belonged to this place, and was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is now totally in ruins. LONGHORSLEY PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by the parish of Rothbury and the chapeby of Frambngton, on the east by part of Felton parish and Hebron chapelry, on the south by Mitford parish, and on the west by the chapeby of Netherwitton. It extends, from north-west to south-east, nearly 7 miles ; but the average breadth does not much exceed 3 miles. In 1801, it contained 204 houses and 1006 inhabitants. The soil is chiefly clay, in its various gradations ; and though the surface is generaby flat, yet it lies high, and, few parts being sheltered by trees, the air is usually sharp and piercing. Both coal and lime are found in the parish. There are three day-schools in this parish, in which about 90 children are educated. One master receives £4 per annum for instructing six poor children. There is also a Sunday-school at Longhorsley, and another at Wingates, attended by 117 children. Mrs. Ogle, in 1761, made a gift of £100 ; the interest to be applied for teaching seven poor chbdren, and for the use of the poor. It was vested in Job Bulman, who, in 1782, refused to pay the interest. The curate has not stated who pays the £4, re ceived at present by a master. Longhorsley is a long straggling village, about 7 miles north-west by north from Morpeth. It stretches from east to west, and is crossed at the east end by the Cold stream road. It contains two public houses, and above 400 inhabitants. On the north side of the vibage is a strong ancient tower, which belonged to the Horsleys, but which is now converted into a Roman Catholic chapel, and a dwelling for the priest. It is a plain square building, evidently erected for security against the Border depredators. Adjoining this lower is a deer park, which, with part of the village, be longs to Ralph Riddell, Esq. of Felton. The other part, except five smab freeholds, is the property of C. W. Bigge, Esq. The parochial church, which is dedicated to St. Helen, stands half a mile north east from the vibage. It is a neat modern structure, and is entered by a handsome porch. The inside walls are hung over with " texts of holy writ ;" but contain no inscriptions worthy of remark. The living is a vicarage,* in the gift of the crown, and is valued in the king's books at £7, 13*. 4>d. The impropriations and advowsons of this church were given by the third Ralph Lord Greystock to the abbey of Brink- burn, 8 king Richard II. In the centre of the village stands the vicarage-house ; behind which is a commodious school-room, wherein prayers are occasion aby read, and baptism performed. The manor of Longhorsley was given by Cospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, on the mar riage of his daughter Julian to Sir Ralph Merley, Baron of Morpeth ; whose succes- r The Rev. Mr. Mitford died here in 1790, aged 86 years. He was vicar of this parish during 43 years. 152 MORPETH WARD— W. D. sor, the third Roger de Merley, in the reign of king Henry III. granted lands in Longhorsley and other places to Adam de Plessis; "and at the same time," says Wallis, " his lordship compelled ab the tenants within the manor to keep the ways and ditches round their grounds in good order, on pain of being whipped the day after his court was held."* The family of the Horsleys held lands here from distant ages. Robert de Horsley, a witness to the above ancient grant, held also lands in Longhorsley, which continued in his family through a long succession ; and were possessed by John de Horsley, 1 king Edward III. ; by Richard de Horsley, high sheriff of Northumberland, 37, 43, 44, 45, of the same reign ; by John de Horsley, in the reign of king Henry VI. ; by Sir John Horsley, 1 king Edward VI. 1547, who in that year was made a knight ba ronet, after the victory obtained over the Scots at Musselburg by the English army ; by Cuthbert Horsley, Esq. a representative in parliament for Northumberland, 1 queen Mary, and for the borough of Morpeth, 2d and 3d of the same reign ; by the late Edward Horsley Widdrington, of Felton, Esq. whose only daughter and heir married Thomas Riddell, of Swinburne Castle, Esq. His son Ralph Riddell, Esq. of Felton, is the present proprietor. The district of Longhorsley is divided into four quarters, viz. Bigge's Quarter, Riddeb's Quarter, Freeholders' Quarter, and Longshaws' Quarter, each of which is rated as a separate township. Near the vibage of Longhorsley is a moor or common, several hundred acres in extent. It being the prolific source of contagious disorders incident to cattle, and of little real use in its present state, it is surprising that the proprietors, during the pe riod of agricultural prosperity, did not attempt to procure an act for its division and enclosure. Lindon is situated about a mile north-east from Longhorsley, where Charles Wil liam Bigge, Esq. has erected a spacious and handsome mansion-house, with convenient out-offices. The adjoining pleasure-grounds are judiciously laid out ; and when the plantations have grown to maturity, this place will assume a more rich and agreeable aspect. The larches seem to thrive particularly web. Mr. Bigge purchased a consi derable estate here, which was formerly possessed by the Earl of Carlisle ; and gave the appellation of Lindon to his new mansion-house from the rivulet of" that name, which has its source near the place. The soil here being a poor clay, ab the beauties that are springing up around are the creation of its spirited and intelligent proprietor. Longshaws consists of a farmhold and a few cottages, and is the property of Thomas Fenwick, Esq. * As his authority for this strange penalty, Mr. Wallis quotes the Autographo Perantiquo : — " Et iste est Rogerus, qui subditos suos in Horsley ad vias et fossatas circa Campos de Horsley bene conservandas et dili- gentu sustentandas, tractare statuit. Et quod quicunque convictus fuerit de aliquo fragmento in fossatis vel viis praedictis in Campo suo tenetur ibidem in crastino inventionis sanctes crucis, et crastino sancti Martini in hieme, el reddet domino suo pro quolibet delicto suo duas Virgas ferveas quoties inde convictus fuerit." On this Mr. Hutchinson observes, that the word ferveas must be mistranscribed ; and adds, " the Virga ferrea was a royal standard measure kept in the exchequer ; and it is most probable the penalty inflicted on the tenants of Horsley was a forfeiture, meeted by the Virga ferrea." LONGHORSLEY PARISH. 153 Todburn lies lij mile west by north from Longhorsley. It consists of one farm hold, and belongs to C. W. Bigge, Esq. of Lindon. It probably acquired this name from being the haunt of foxes, tod being a Saxon name for that animal. Wingates stands about 2f miles west from Longhorsley, and contains three farm holds, one public house, and 15 other houses, inhabited by mechanics and labourers. Some years ago, this place Avas much famed, in consequence of a mineral spring hav ing been discovered here, and which, it is said, performed many remarkable cures in scrophulas, external inflammations, stomach complaints, debility, hgemorrhages, &c. From a chemical analysis of this water, it was found to be the strongest chalybeate yet known, as an English pint of it contains six grains of iron, fourteen grains of alum, and nine of an ochre earth. At this spa is a commodious bath, but at present it is seldom used. Stanton. — This village is agreeably situated on the southern decbvity of a hbl, 2f miles south by west from Longhorsley, and 5\ miles north-west from Morpeth. It contains two farmholds, and a few cottages for labourers. From the many founda tions of buildings still discernible, this place seems to have been of considerable extent. Even within the last few years, many cottages have been pulled down, lest their in mates should become chargeable to the township. One of the farm-houses is a good stone building, ornamented by a row of trees, with convenient gardens annexed, and appears to have been erected for the residence of a private gentleman's family. At the bottom of the hill stands the old mansion-house. It is a plain building in the form of an oblong square, and has evidently been erected at a time when the conve niences and comforts of modern times were understood. It is now converted into what is called a House of Industry ; and the gardens, which were long occupied by an industrious mechanic, are attached to that establishment. At a little distance north was a domestic chapel. Some old people remember when part of the outer arches were standing, but now there is not a single vestige remaining. From the high end of the village some good landscape views may be obtained, par ticularly to the south and west. To the south, the woods of Nunriding are seen hanging over the banks of the Font, beyond which is a view of a populous and fertile country, to a great extent. Towards the west, the beautiful and productive vale of Netherwitton, with its extensive woods and plantations, attracts the attention. On its extremity the land rises in a gradual slope to Rothley Castle and Codgey Crag : on the left is a view of Longwitton, and the hall peeping through the trees that sur round it; while the bleak mountain of Simonside terminates the prospect on the right. The viha of Stanton formed part of the portion of Julian, daughter of Cospatrick, who was given in marriage to Ralph Lord de Merley, by king Henry I. His son, Sir Roger de Merley, seems to have had possession of this estate, as he gave the an, nual rent of 20*. out of his mib at Stanton, to the abbey of Newminster, which his father had founded. In after times, Stanton became the seat and villa of a younger branch of the Fenwicks of Fenwick Tower. It was possessed by Sir Ralph de Fen wick, who was high sheriff of Northumberland, 7 king Henry VIII, He accompa-, VOL. ii, 2 Q 154 MORPETH WARD— W. D. nied Sir John de Fenwick, of Wabington, and several other Northumbrian gentlemen, who, with about 900 men, made a plundering excursion into the rich and fertbe country of the Merse. On the 16th of July, 1524, this daring party was unexpectedly attacked by 2000 Scots ; but. after a long and obstinate engagement, victory declared in favour of the Northumbrians, who carried 200 prisoners off the field. Sir Ralph de Fenwick displayed great valour and address ; but his eagerness in the pursuit leading him too far, he and seven others were taken prisoners. Among the slain of the English was the Bastard Heron, so famed in the Border history* Stanton was possessed by Ralph de Fenwick, Esq. 6 king Edward VI. a commissioner that year for the enclosures upon the Middle Marches ; and by Richard de Fenwick, Esq. 10 queen Elizabeth. His estate, by the escheats of that reign, comprized the manor and villa of Stanton, Absheels, Limekiln-fields, and a mediety of the viba of Longwitton, and lands in Fairnlaw, Truhetly-sheels, Eshenden, and Cowpen. He was succeeded by his son, William de Fenwick, Esq. whose son, Roger Fenwick, Esq. married the daughter and heir of George Fenwick, Esq. of Brinkburn, by whom he had issue. His eldest son, John Fenwick, Esq. married Margaret, one of the daughters and co heirs of William Fenwick, Esq. of Byweb, by which means the three houses of Stan ton, Brinkburn, and Byweb became united. It is now the property of George Baker, Esq. of Elemore, in the county of Durham, whose uncle purchased the estate. Ruff Hill, or Ruff Law, is a lofty eminence, which separates the township of Stan ton from Longhorsley Moor, and is remarkable for commanding one of the most ex tensive and variegated prospects in the north of England. Eastward there is an uninterrupted view of the sea-coast from South Shields to the northern extremity of Northumberland, interspersed with noble buildings, ancient and modern, numerous ports, towns, villages, and hamlets, while fleets of coasters are continually skirtino- the distant horizon ; the numerous streams which are seen gbttering in' the sun-beams in their meandering course towards the sea, through as fine a cultivated country as any in the universe, tend also to heighten the beauty of the scene. To the north, nature assumes a more bold and imposing form : there the lofty heights of Rimside and Si monside are seen rising like two immense pyramids, between which are perceived the Cheviot Hills, whose grey tops seem enveloped in the clouds ; while, turning the eye westward, the distant horizon is faintly tinged by the Cumberland mountains. Gateshead Feb terminates this fine prospect on the south. At this place there is one farmhold, and a few cottages for colliers, sheltered on the north and west by a planta tion of fir trees. Wittonshiels is situated on the north side of the vale between Stanton and Ne- therwitton. It consists of one single farmhold, with a strong old toAver, now used as a Roman Catholic chapel, and wherein divine service is performed once a month by the priest, who resides at Thropton. Above the door, N. T. 1608, are cut in a stone; the letters are supposed to be the initials of Sir Nicholas Thornton, and the fi.o-ures the date of its erection. It is conjectured to have been originally a seat belonging to * This is the account of the English historians ; but Lesley affirms that the English were defeated, leaving a number of slain, and 200 prisoners in the hands of the victors. NETHERWITTON CHAPELRY. 155 a branch of the ancient family of Thornton. It is the property of Raleigh Trevelyan, Esq. of Netherwitton. NETHERWITTON CHAPELRY. This chapeby is bounded on the north by Rothbury parish, on the east by Long horsley, and on the south and west by Hartburn parish. It consists chiefly of a fine rich vale. Its length is about 4 miles ; but the breadth, towards the south, is incon siderable. It is divided into seven townships, and contains 46 houses and 460 inha bitants. There is a school at Netherwitton, at which 60 children are educated, some of whom are paid for by the gentlemen of the chapelry. The vicar of Hartburn states, that " the poor of Netherwitton are so very anxious to have their chbdren in structed, that there are few instances of their not being able to read and write." Lionel Winship, in 1778, left by wib £10 to the poor of this chapelry; but the money, it is said, has all been appropriated. Netherwitton, formerly cabed Witton-by-the- Waters, is pleasantly situated about 8 miles west-north-west from Morpeth, and is surrounded by a rich fertile country, through which runs the river Font, whose abrupt banks are clothed with fine woods. Here are many convenient cottages, several of which have small gardens attached ; and a commodious pubbc house. A large building was erected here about 30 years ago, and excellent machinery set up, for the purpose of manufacturing cotton ; but the speculation was ultimately abandoned. It is now converted into a woollen ma nufactory by Messrs. Dixon, Walker, and Co. of Morpeth. The chapel, which is a neat smab structure, is dedicated to St. Giles, and belongs to the vicarage of Hartburn. Some years ago, the inhabitants of the village were almost exclusively of the Roman Cathobc persuasion, when all the ancient customs of the country were religiously ob- senred. Old people remember when the vibagers used to assemble in the evening, and dance around a cross to the music of the Northumberland bagpipes, while their aged friends sat around, enjoying the sportive scene. On Sunday evenings they were joined by several of their neighbours, who came to partake in the joyous pastime. The cross, on certain festival days, was decked out with a profusion of flowers, rib bons, &c. Some vestiges of these customs stib remain. Netherwitton was the manor of the ancient famby of the Thorntons. It belonged to Roger Thornton, so justly celebrated for his numerous and liberal benefactions to the toAvn of NeAvcastle, and who died 8 king Henry VI. (1429), after building his castle or tower of Witton. His son, Sir Roger Thornton, married Elizabeth, the daughter of John Lord Greystock, Baron of Morpeth, and was high-sheriff of North umberland, 29 and 36 king Henry VI. ; his daughter Elizabeth married George Lord Lumley, of Lumley Castle. The town and manor of LudAvorth, Bradbury with the Isle, Bolam, Axwell, Swalwell, and lands scattered broad and wide over Durham and Northumberland, formed a part of this rich heiress's inheritance* In a quarrel Avhich * " The lands of Thorton be descended to Lorde Lumley, so that almost all the faire lands that Lomely cam by this Thorton. Witton in Northumberland, and the Isle in the Bishoprick, and also Ludworth, were Thorton's. Thorton, first a merchante and then a landid man." — Lei. Itin. 6 fol. 62. 156 MORPETH WARD— W. D. arose concerning this succession, Lord Lumley slew Giles Thornton, his wife's bastard brother, in a duel in Windsor Castle ditch.* He was high sheriff of Northumberland six times during the reign of king Edward IV ; in the 4th year of that reign he was appointed conservator of the Peace and Trewe between England and Scotland, and had the honour of knighthood. Netherwitton was possessed by Roger Thornton, 6 king Edward VI. ; by Sir Nicholas Thornton, whose estate was sequestered by the parliament, 4 king Charles II. (1652) ; by the late James Thornton, Esq. who left two daughters and coheirs. Walter Trevelyan, Esq. married the eldest. The other married into the Witham family ; and Henry Silvertop, Esq. third son of George Silvertop, Esq. of Minsteracres, by marriage with Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Witham, Esq. obtained an interest in the Netherwitton estates. Walter Trevelyan, Esq. married, second, Miss Hicks, of Penzance, in Cornwall, by whom he had one son and two daughters. He was an active justice of the peace, and died in July, 1819, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Walter, on whose decease the estate came into the possession of his brother, Raleigh Trevelyan, Esq. the present proprietor. The old castle built by Roger Thornton is in ruins ; but the present seat is a gen teel modern structure of white freestone. On the west are fine gardens, kept in ex cellent order; and a plantation to the east. Before the south front is a beautiful grass lawn ; and ab the adjoining lands are highly cultivated, as the father of the present possessor was much attached to agricultural pursuits. On the extremity of the laAvn is a curious, lofty, and impenetrable hedge : it was formed by erecting a mound of earth, seven feet wide at the bottom, four feet wide at the top, and five feet in height. The quicks were planted in the middle of the top, and on each side, and at two feet distance ; wibow stakes were inserted, an inch in diameter, and one and a half or two feet long, sloping downwards, which have taken root, and formed a live fence for the preservation of the quicks in the middle. Such a mode of fencing, in some situations, especiahy in cold, soft, marshy soils, may be useful ; but it is bable to so many objections as to prevent its general adoption. Nunnykirk is about one mile north by west from NetherAvitton, from which there is a beautiful ride along the woody banks of the Font. This estate came into the possession of the late William Ord, Esq. by marriage with Miss Ward, in whose fa mily it had been for a length of time. He died at Morpeth, February 11, 1814, and was succeeded by his son, William Ord, Esq. The hall is a modern bubding, seated in a little, beautiful, romantic vale, embowered in wood, and enlivened by the mean- * " Thomas Lumley, after Lorde Lumley, slew, in the diche of Windsor Castelle, Giles Thornton, bastard to riche Thornton. Thornton, mayre of Newcastel, borne yn Witton. He purchased 800 marke land, and died wonderful riche, sum say by pieces of silver oure taken on the se." — Ibid. It was the grand-daughter of the rich merchant, Roger Thornton, who, as stated above, carried her im mense wealth into the family of Lumley. " There seems also," says the industrious and accurate Surtees, " some doubt, from entries in the College of Arms, of the asserted bastardy of Giles Thornton. The pedigree registered in 1615 gives to the youngest Roger a second wife, daughter of — Law, and states the issue of this match, Sir Roger, Giles, and John Thornton ; the latter was lineal ancestor of Thornton, of Nether Wit ton, who, as Bourne says, were 'very regular possessors and proprietors of that manor.' " — See Bourne, p. 95K note. History qf Durham, vol. ii. p. 157. : HARTBURN PARISH. 157 derings of the river. Mr. Ord is now building two additional wings, which project from the extremities of the hall, but are to be joined by a neat portico. These tasteful additions and alterations, which are in a chaste style of architecture, are pro ceeding under the direction of Mr. Dobson, of Newcastle. Riton Colt Park, which lies at a little distance north-west of Nunnykirk, is in the possession of Calverly Walter Trevelyan, Esq. son of the late Walter Trevelyan, Esq. by his second wife. Riton White House adjoins this toAvnship. Coal, or Coat Yards, forms the northern extremity of the chapelry. Part of this township, with Healy and Comb Hill, which lie further south, constitute part of the Netherwit ton estate. Ousley, which stands above a mile west from Nunnykbk, is the pro perty of Wibiam Ord, Esq. of the latter place. HARTBURN PARISH. This parish* is bounded on the north by Rothbury ; on the east by Netherwitton chapeby, and the parishes of Mitford, Meldon, and Bolam ; on the south by the latter parish ; and on part of the south and the west by Kirkwhelpington. The length from north to south is estimated at 7^ miles ; but the breadth, which is irregular, does not exceed 4 miles. It is divided into 24 townships, of which 14 are in the west division of Morpeth Ward, and the other 10 in the north-east division of Tindale Ward. The entire parish, in 1821, contained 263 houses, and 14-74 inhabitants. The soil of this parish is various. The north-western district consists of bleak moorlands, while other parts present scenes the most picturesque and luxuriant. It is well provided with good roads, has an abundance of excellent lime, and coal is wrought both at Hare- wood and Shaftoe. At Harrington there is a seam of lead ore, which some imagine might be wrought to advantage. The number of farms, which average about 200 acres, amounts to 62, of which 33 belong to Sir John Trevelyan, Bart. 8 to Ralph Atkinson, Esq. 6 to Greenwich Hospital, and the rest to various proprietors. There are three schools : one at Hartburn, containing 50 children, one at North Middleton, and another at Cambo. Sir Walter Blackett, in 1777> amongst his other charitable bequests, left £100 to the poor of this parish, Hartburn is a delightful little village, situated 8^ miles west by north from Mor peth, upon the road which leads from that place to the western turnpikes. It lately received the addition of a few neat stone cottages, erected by Ralph Atkinson, Esq. of Newcastle. The church is a spacious old building, with a square tower. The roof is flat, and supported by two rows of pihars. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the bishop of Durham, and is valued in the king's books at £20, 0s. lOd.-f Near the * W. C. Trevelyan, Esq. of Wallington, has obligingly contributed to give accuracy and interest to the description of this parish. The Editor has also to acknowledge the information so kindly communicated by Mr. Orr, surgeon, at Cambo. t By a writing dated on the feasts of St. Philip and St. James, 1252, the abbot and convent of the monastry of St. Alban nominate two persons (" Radupkum priorem de Tynemouth et Will-mo de Horton, celerarium nos trum," i. e. burser or steward) as proctors, to treat with the Lord Walter (Kirkham), then, bishop of Durham, VOL. IL— (28) 2 R 158 MORPETH WARD— W. D. west end of the church is the vicarage-house, with the garden and shrubbery adjoin ing, which, Avhen in good repair, give it an agreeable appearance. Here is a curious Gothic tower, in which is a school-room, and stables, for the use of the parishioners. The west side is finely mantled with ivy, which gives it a most antique and venerable appearance. It was built partly by the parish, and partly by the late Dr. Sharp. The Rev. Dr. Sharp, late archdeacon of Northumberland, when vicar of Hartburn, formed several of the most pleasant and romantic walks imaginable on the woody banks of the adjoining rivulet, called the Hart. Entering a small wicket near the tower mentioned above, the visitant approaches the wood, and passes along the brink of a steep precipice, at the foot of which the wandering stream pursues its course in silence. Descending, by stone steps, to the margin of the water, he finds himself ih a solitude incomparably soothing and agreeable. Here is a lofty tree of the larch kind, which towers up to a wonderful height, in the most regular and beautiful man ner, Avithout the least bow, or irregular branch to injure its fine symmetry. A little further are four remarkably high firs, planted at the four corners of a square, and at such a distance that their branches approach, and form a lofty canopy ; beneath which Dr. Sharp had a small pavbion, wherein he occasipnally drank tea. Between this place and the water is a semicircular stone wab, intended to represent a half-moon battery. At a little distance is a cave in the rock, which rises above the Avater : it is called the grotto. The bank here is covered Avith rough and coarse grasses and plants. The grotto seems mostly the work of nature, assisted a bttle by art. It is approached by steps ; the entrance is about the breadth of a room-door, but higher. A wall runs across the inside, and divides it into two apartments. It was used as a retreat for bathers ; and there is a covered way leading from the outer door to the water edge, along which they might pass unperceived by the impertinent eye of vulgar curiosity. But any verbal description must fail to convey an adequate idea of the various beau ties of this romantic solitude. Thornton stands upon the summit of a verdant eminence, about a mbe north-east from Hartburn. The celebrated Roger Thornton, the munificent patron of NeAvcas- tle, is supposed to have derived his name from this place. Though it now contains but one farmstead and two cottages, it was formerly a place of consequence. Mr. Gale conjectures it to have been a turris, or castebum, to Glanoventa ; and Warbur- concerning the ordinance and governing of the church of Hartburn, especially in taxing of the vicarage of the same church, if, through the bishop's grace, it should be appropriated to the said monastry. By another writ ing, without date, the said proctors submit themselves to the bishop's ordinance concerning the same church. The following is a translation of the writing of appropriation : — " Walter, by the grace of God bishop of Durham, To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting. Know ye that we, in the presence of God, for the augmentation of the hospitality of the monastry of St. Alban, have given, granted, and by this our charter have confirmed to the abbot and convent of the said monastry, the church of Herteburn, with the ap purtenances, for their own proper use, to have and to hold for ever. Wherefore, as soon as it shall become vacant, by the resignation or by 'the death of Master Hugh de Florenton, rector of the said church, they may freely and of their own authority enter upon possession of the said church, and keep it ; saving the perpetual vicarage, consisting of a third part of the said church, together with all the land of the same church, which is to be conferred by us and our successors for ever. Saving also to us and our successors the pontifical autho rity and dignity of the church of Durham. In witness whereof," &c. HARTBURN PARISH. 159 ton says (in 1717-18) the vestigia of a remarkable town yet remained here* It was also intersected by a high military way, to which a square platform was joined. These two were evidently Roman. An aged and respectable correspondent, when, young, Avas once expressing his surprise at the many foundations of buildings which were Aisible here, Avhen he was accosted by a very old man, who said, " Sir, I was one of se venteen farmers who formerly lived here ; and of these, sixteen had horses, which Avere entered the lists. Then," continued he, " the moor north of this place used to be co vered with country people, Avho assembled there to see the gallopers exercised every Sunday afternoon." If gambling was, indeed, carried to such a height among these bttle farmers as this aged person represented, Ave need not wonder at the dispersion of then posterity. Hartburn Grange is a hamlet, containing two farmholds and four or five cot tages, that stands on the road leading to Cambo, and which now belongs to Greenwich Hospital. Longwitton stands nearly two miles north of Hartburn, and above one mile south-west from Netherwitton. It is an irregular built village, containing three farmholds, one public house, and a few cottages for mechanics and labourers. Long witton Hall belonged to the Swinburnes, but was sold by William Swinburne, Esq. to Sir Walter Blackett, by Avhose will it came to the present owner, Sir John Tre velyan. It stands on an elevated situation, fronting the south, but is sheltered by a thick grove on the north, east, and west. It commands a view of the woody banks of the Hart, with a glimpse of the vicarage and church of Hartburn, and a wide range of country as far as the southern banks of the Tyne. The house is ancient, except a smab wing, added by the last Mr. Swinburne. It is now occupied by James Fen- Avick, Esq. before mentioned in our account of the honourable and ancient family of the Manners. Thomas Harle, Esq. also has an agreeable residence at this place. BeloAV a neat garden, which belongs to Longwitton Hab, is a winding path through a wood of fine oaks, leading to three medicinal springs, called Thurston Wells. They issue out of a high ridge of rocks of coarse whinstone, that adjoins the Wansbeck. The western spring is the largest ; at the bottom is a quantity of yellow ochre, under which is a vitrioline sediment of a blueish grey. Its water is said to have been used, with the best effect, in cases of scurvy, agues, and sore eyes. RoTHLEYf is a small Avell built vblage, seated on the south side of a freestone rock, about 2-| miles north-west from Hartburn. At some distance south from the village, * Places whose names terminate with the Saxon ion have formerly been towns, or places of some conse quence; while the adjunct ham indicates a mere hamlet or dwelling. t 55 Henry III. 1271, the king by his charter confirmed and rehearsed the gifts to the monastry of New minster, by William de Flotwayton, of part of Rothley, and of the mill there, which he had purchased of Adam de Blakedon ; and the gift to the same monastry by Hugh, son of Hugh de Bolebeck, of the manor of Rothley, which he had purchased of Alanus de Ormston. — 36 Henry VIII. Rothley, together with other possessions of the dissolved monastry of Newminster, was granted by the crown to William Lord Eure. l6l 8, William Lord Eure obtained a license from the crown to sell to Sir John Fenwick, of Wallington, the 160 MORPETH WARD— W. D. tradition states, there was formerly a circular plot of ground, sunk several feet below the surface, and environed with tab and strong whins and broom. It was approached by a narrow avenue. In this secluded retreat the inhabitants secured their cattle at night, during the summer-months, from the moss-troopers who infested the country. At last a roving banditti attempted to rob this rich depot ; but the alarm beacon above Rothley being fired, the country people crowded from every quarter, and the lawless Borderers were driven back with great loss. The slain were buried near the scene of action, which is still known by the name of Scots' Gap. A fragment of a stone, with an inscription perpetuating the memory of the event, was standing in the last century ; but was broken on forming the turnpike that leads from Morpeth to Cambo, and which passes close to the spot.* Rothley Castle is seated on a high and rugged crag, near one mile north from the vblage, on the west side of Rothley Park. It was erected by the late Sir Walter Calverley Blackett, of Wallington, merely for ornament ; and from its commanding situation, it certainly has a fine effect when viewed from a distance, having the ap pearance of the seat of some ancient baron. This is even allowed by Mr. Hutchinson, who, in a peevish humour, ridicules the taste it displays. Having with difficulty mounted the rugged steep on which it is seated, he found this object of " curiosity no other than an ornamental structure, composed of a square tower, flanked with a cur- vated wall, embattled, and pierced Avith loop-holes, and each wing terminated with a bastion : the situation romantic, on the brink of a broken precipice. The sides of this hill, to the west and south, present a shaken and tremendous rocky steep, rent into vast impending columns and massive tables ; the stones, of enormous bulk, in many places hang on each other in such loose positions, as if ready to fall into the vale ; forming caverns and recesses, and rude heaps of rocks of a most wild and grotesque appearance." The entrance into this tower is from the east ; the southern front opens on a small circular plain ; and on the west side is a flight of stairs leading to the top, from whence there is an extensive view of the surrounding country. Eastward the spectator overlooks the rich vale which extends towards the sea, and which forms the distant horizon ; to the southward there is a prospect of Cambo and the hibs beyond Wallington. The western view is more confined, but whoby cultivated, and the north frowns in rocks, mountains, and barren heath, amongst which objects Codgey Craig forms a striking object. Near the castle are the traces of an ancient earthen encampment. Rothley Park comprizes a large tract of ground of various qualities. It is bounded by a strong stone Avail, one mile in length. The late Sir W. C. Blackett kept it well stocked with deer, Scotch cattle, and sheep, for his own use. It has been disparked, enclosed, and improved by Sir John Trevelyan, the present owner. At the foot of manor of Rothley, and 1 6 messuages, 10 cottages, 1 mill, 1 dove-cote, 1 6 gardens, 6 orchards, 300 acres of land, 100 acres of meadow, 300 acres of pasture, 30 acres of wood, 1000 acres of heath and furze, 100 acres of moor, 200 acres of turbury and common of pasture for all cattle, in Rothley. * The late Mr. John Spearman was a native of this place. He was a man of extraordinary endowments; and being skilful in the sciences of botany and chemistry, he applied their principles with success to the art of agriculture. His knowledge in surgery was also evinced in many instances ; and his affability and general knowledge rendered his conversation highly amusing and instructive. HARTBURN PARISH. 161 the hib on which the castle stands, near the north-west corner of the park, were two fine sheets of water, communicating with each other, cabed Rothley Ponds. Formerly they were tastefuby ornamented by a shrubbery. A boat and fishing tackling were also kept here, and a tent Avas pitched in summer near the lakes, where visitants often were entertained by the late proprietor. Whitridge, a small hamlet, is situated at the east side of the park. High Angerton stands a short distance south-east from Hartburn. It contains a farmstead, and four or five cottages for labourers. Low Angerton lies a little further south, and on the banks of the Wansbeck. Here the proprietor, Ralph At kinson, Esq. of Newcastle, has erected a neat mansion-house, and greatly improved the adjoining lands by excebent drains and enclosures. Highlaws stands about one mbe to the south-west of the latter place. North Middleton lies 1^ mile west by south from Hartburn, and north of the Wansbeck. This smab vibage contains a public house, and a dissenting meeting house of the denomination now cabed the United Secession. W. Coub, Esq. Mr. Robert Hepple, and Mr. Thomas Shanks, have each a farm in this township. Todridge, a smab adjoining freehold belonging to Mr. Shanks, ranks as a township. South Middleton, containing three farmholds and a few cottages, is situated above 2^ miles south-west from Hartburn, and is the property of Ralph Atkinson, Esq. The adjoining township, cabed Corridge, and which contains two farms, became the property of Thomas Carr, Esq. of Newcastle, by his marriage with Miss Robson. The other townships in this parish are locaby situated in Tindale Ward. Cambo is distant above 4 miles west from Hartburn, 12 mbes west from Morpeth, and 21 miles north-west from Newcastle. From its name it appears anciently to have been a military station ; Camhoe signifying the camp or fort on the hill. It gaA'e name to an ancient family, and was the ATilla and seat of Sir Robert de Camhoe, who held the office of high sheriff of Northumberland during three successive years in the reign of king Henry III. Latterly it became annexed to the Wallington estate Cambo is delightfully seated on an eminence at the junction of three roads, and is justly esteemed one of the most agreeable vibages in the county. On the south the road graduaby declines in a direct line to Wallington, above a mile distant; the hedge-roAvs forming a vista, terminated by the dome of the offices, Avhich has a fine effect. The prospect altogether is extensive and noble, being of that happy composi tion, which cultivation, mixing with natural woods and fanciful plantations, give the landscape ; object decreasing after object, and stretching from the eye tib mingled in the azure of the atmosphere, in which all the horizon lies softened and blended. This village consists of a row of houses which runs east and west : at the east end there is a good house, occupied by Mr. Snowball, steward for the Wabington estate. The neighbourhood is supplied with almost every necessary commodity at this place, which also can boast of a subscription library and a good inn. At the school here many have been instructed who now hold respectable situations in different parts of vol. n. 2S > 162 MORPETH WARD— W. D. the world* There Was formerly a chapel at Cambo, part of the wabs of which was standing within the last 60 years. In the year 1795, as some workmen were digging stones in order to improve the field wherein the structure had stood, they discovered the base-stones of the pillars, and a few yards to the southward, a little bei the surface of the earth, found several grave-stones, in the form of coffins, lying flat, on one of which was sculptured a woman, and a dog at her feet ; and on each of the * Launcelot Brown, the celebrated landscape gardener, received his early education at Cambo school. He was born at Kirkharle in 1716, and left his native county in 1739. He was employed by Lord Cobham in improving the grounds at Stowe, and afterwards at Richmond, Blenheim, Luton, Wimbledon, &c. He suc cessfully exploded the old, stiff, unnatural, Dutch style of gardening, and introduced an improved fashion that prevailed for nearly half a century. His works discover a highly cultivated taste, and have commanded the admiration both of Englishmen and foreigners. In 1759, he was appointed head gardener to king George II. at Hampton Court. He associated familiarly with many of his noble and opulent employers, and realized a handsome fortune. In 1770, he served the office of high sheriff for the counties of Huntingdon and Cambridge. He died suddenly in Hertford Street, May-fair, February 6, 1783. From a word he often used in laying out grounds, he was generally called Capability Brown. Mason, in his English Garden, says, " Him too, the living leader of thy pow'rs, Great Nature ! him the Muse shall hail in notes Which antedate the praise true Genius claims From just posterity. Bards yet unborn Shall pay to Brown that tribute, fitliest paid In strains the beauty of his scenes inspire." English Garden, i. 530. The epitaph of L. Brown, Esq. expresses a similar sense of his talents. Lord Orford, " On Modern Gar- dening," says, " It was fortunate for the country and Mr. Kent, that he was succeeded by a very able master ; and did living artists come within my plan, I should be glad to do justice to Mr. Brown : but he may be a gainer, by being reserved for an abler pen." Cambo was the favourite residence of the ingenious and eccentric Thomas Whittle, whose comic productions often beguile the long winter evenings of our rustic Northumbrians. His parents and the place of his birth are unknown. His brother, it is said, was parish clerk at Earsdon, 1750. Shilbottle, Ovingham, and Long Edlingham, have severally laid claim to the honour of having given him birth. However this may be, cer tain it is, that Thomas, either in consequence of ill usage, or from a restlessness of disposition, left his native home when a boy, about the beginning of the last century, and made his appearance in Cambo mounted on an old goat, which he had selected from the flock he had in charge, in order that it might be his assistant and companion in his intended adventures. On his arrival, he was engaged by a miller, with whom he continued some years. About the close of his servitude, he became a disciple of Bacchus, and continued attached to the service of the drouthy god while he lived. Possessing a fertile imagination, brilliant wit, and a happy com mand of language, the temptations to assume the character of a boon companion were irresistible. Occasion ally he worked with exemplary industry, and became remarkably expert in many of the branches of art which he practised, but particularly in painting. The versatility of his talents enabled him to personate different characters, during his various peregrinations through the county and the south of Scotland. Some relics of his workmanship in painting, executed in a very superior style, may be seen at Belsay Castle, Hartburn, Ponteland, and other churches in Northumberland. Numerous anecdotes are related of this ingenious man ; but their authenticity cannot now be ascertained. His " Rape qf tke Garter," written on the marriage of Benjamin Richey (otherwise Redshaw), was celebrated on the 21st of May, 1721 ; but his song on the "Ain- HARTBURN PARISH. 163 others, a cross, with either a sword or a pair of wool-shears at their sides, sculptured in the same manner : but as there were neither letters nor figures on any of the stones, the era is unknown. In 1797, a barn was built at Cambo, and the grave-stones placed perpendicular upon the base stones in the walls thereof. At Saugh House, a little distant to the east, the Methodists of the NeAv Connection have a meeting-house. Hartington, Hartington-Hall, and Farnlaws, three townships belonging to the Wabington estate, lie at a short distance north and north-Avest from Cambo. Greenlighton, noted for its fine hill and the excebent limestone it produces, stands a little west of Rothley Shield. The moor of Harwood forms the north part of the parish, and is mostly the property of Sir John Trevelyan. The hamlet of Harwood is on the north side of the Hart, and at a bttle distance south-west from Greenlighton. Wallington. — This is a small vibage, consisting of a few cottages, pleasantly seated near a wood, and is about three miles south-west from Hartburn, and 19 miles north-west from Newcastle. The rental of this township is equal to two-sevenths of the whole west division of the parish. Wallington Hall is an elegant and extensive square building, and is, for the most part, erected with a fine freestone, of a bright whitish-brown colour, with splendid particles of talc, from a quarry at Cambo. It stands on a gentle eminence, and every surrounding objeot is so tastefuby arranged, as to form a scene beautifuby romantic. On the east, west, and north, are thick groves of luxuriant forest trees ; and the Wans beck at the bottom of the lawn is crossed by an elegant stone bridge, with three arches and open battlements. Mr. Hutchinson, who was not easily pleased, says, "Wallington House is a handsome stone structure, but from the mode of architecture, doth not seem to take its date in this century. Before the south front is a pretty pasture ground, in- wick Election" seems to have been written in 1 711. After experiencing all the vicissitudes of a poet's life, he died in indigent circumstances at East Shaftoe, a place he had celebrated in a poem, and was buried at Hart burn on the 19th of April, 1736. Thomas Whittle's poems and songs, though sometimes rather licentious, are not destitute of poetic merit. They are perused by the natives of the county with admiration and delight, and will probably be a source of entertainment to many succeeding generations. His " Whimsical Love" is a masterpiece of its kind ; and his poetic letter to the " Razor-setter," his satirical poem on " William Carstairs," and his song called " The Mitford Galloway," are replete with wit and humour, and are well calculated to interest those who have a taste for comic poetry. Whittle is represented to have been slovenly in his dress and clownish in his appear ance. Like other poor men of genius, he was always extremely jealous of the insolence of wealth. On a tomb-stone in Whittingham church-yard, the following occurs : — " Thomas Whittle died Feb. 2, 1736, aged 60 years." This man had probably belonged to a branch of our poet's family. William Robson, a respectable and ingenious man, was for some time a schoolmaster at Cambo. He after wards removed to Morpeth, where he died in 1821. In 1815, he published "The Poetical Works of the late celebrated and ingenious Thomas Whittle," from an original manuscript in the author's own writino-, and which he procured for the purpose from Mr. Robert Codling, late of Wallington Dovecot, but now of Ja maica. Mr. Robson himself was also a poet, and many have smarted under the lash of his satire. He was likewise author of several political pamphlets, and contributed to various periodical publications. Being re markably quick in the discrimination of character, he could seldom be converted into a tool for the designing. He liberally furnished some curious particulars for the former edition of this work. 164 MORPETH WARD— W. D. cbning to the brook of Wansbeck : at the east front is the grand approach, having a circular coach-road, with a beautiful green plot, parterres, and flowering shrubs: plantations and covered walks close it to the north, and conceal the offices : the gar dens seem well disposed, on a warm inclination; and the whole makes a pleasing rural appearance, without any intrusion of costly ornaments and laboured works. In the whole composition there is a degree of taste mixed with a countenance of rusticity, which characterizes an agreeable retirement. Nothing is so displeasing to the eye as temples, pagodas, columns, pyramids, Gothic banquetting-houses, and modern ruins, jumbled into a few acres, with that confusion and want of taste which overloaded opulence often disgorges round a modern vbla. True taste is attached to nature so intimately, that each disposition by art must be made to heighten her beauties, not to distort her, and over-burthen the scene with a progeny adopted from all the quarters of the earth. A bad situation cannot be changed ; nay, it is not even improved with gorgeous works : a load of edifices is only like finery on a deformed object — but dis pose the works of art in a just adaption to the situation, and in the mode pointed out by nature, and they grow into elegance." Leland calls Wallington Castle "the chefest houce of the Fenwicks." In a poem lately printed by John Adamson, Esq. entitled Cheviot, supposed to be written by one of the family of Wharton, of Wooperton, near Wooler, the old Eng bsh hospitality of Wallington is thus described : — " Fair Wallington has been decreed by fate Tb be the cap'tal of a large estate ; The wine of Wallington old songsters praise, The Phoenix from her ashes Blacketts raise." — Page 14. Wallington Avas one of the manors of the barony of Bolbeck, and was held by John Grey, commonly called John de Walbngton, 20 king Edward II. and 39 king Ed ward III. ; also by Robert de Walbngton, whose only daughter and heir, Johanna, married William le Strother ; on whose death it came, with its dependences, to Sb John de Fenwick, of Fenwick Tower, who married Mary, his youngest daughter and coheir, in the reign of king Henry IV. It was possessed by this family through a long succession ; by John de Fenwick, 12 king Henry VI. ; by Sir Henry de Fen wick, the 28th of the same reign, in which year he was one of the conservators of the peace and trewe between the two kingdoms of England and Scotland ; by Sir John de Fenwick, 16 king Henry VIII. ; by Sir Wibiam de Fenwick, high sheriff of Northumberland, 20 and 31 queen Elizabeth.* He married Grace, the daughter of Sir John Forster, Lord Warden of the Middle Marches ; her other sister marrying Francis Russel, son to the Earl of Bedford. His son and heir, Sir John Fenwick, knt. Avas high sheriff of Northumberland, 17 king James I. and created a baronet 4 king Charles I. 1628. He was a represen- * 20 Elizabeth, 1578, and SI Elizabeth, 1589, by the escheats of that reign, William Fenwick, Esq. was seized of the manor and village of Fenwick, and manors of Wallington and Walker, Camhow, Harterton, Harterton Hall, Catcheside, moiety of Ryhill, Greenlighton, Gunnerton, and Hawick, and various lands and tenements in East Matfen, and of and in a village called Eshendon, near Bothal, Longwitton, and Hawick. HARTBURN PARISH. 165 tative in parliament for the borough of Cockermouth, but made his election for the county of Northumberland, 17 king Charles I. He was expelled the house, in 1643, for non-attendance, and giving his service to his sovereign, and William Fenwick, Esq. was chosen in his room. He was taken prisoner the year fobowing, with some other gentlemen, 30 horse, and arms, and a sumpter Avith rich clothes, between Northampton and Banbury, by the forces of the parliament, then called New Noddles, from their establishing their armies on a new model. His son, John Fenwick, was slain in the same year at the battle of Marston Moor. In the year 1645, he was high sheriff of Northumberland, and at the head of the militia for the parliament, having made his peace with them. The royabsts are said to have had an intention of giving him correction, by surprising him and the militia, but were prevented on his receiving private notice of their design. He was re-admitted to his seat in parliament for Northumberland, in 1646, by a majority of 124 voices against 73. He first married Catharine, the daughter of Sir Henry Slingsby, by whom he had one son, John, above-mentioned, and two daughters, Catharine and Ebzabeth. He afterwards mar ried Grace (reputed a great beauty), daughter of — Loraine, of Kirkharle, Esq. by whom he had two sons, Wibiam and Alan, and one daughter, Grace. He was suc ceeded by his son and heir, Sir Wibiam Fenwick, Bart, who was a representative in parbament for Northum berland, 6th and 8th of king Charles II. He first married Grace, daughter of Henry Stapleton, of Wighall, in Yorkshire, Esq. by whom he had one son, John, and two daughters, the eldest of whom, Grace, married Sir Thomas Loraine, of Kirkharle, Bart. He aftenvards married Margaret, the daughter of William Selby, of Newcas tle, Esq. sister to Sir George Selby, knt. by whom he had two sons and five daugh ters, viz. Wibiam and Roger, Elizabeth, Dorothy, Ann, Margaret, and Mary. He was succeeded by his son and heir, Sb John Fenwick, Bart. After the great fire of London, 18 king Charles II. 1 666, he built the great hall in Christ's Hospital, in which the boys dine and sup. He was condemned and beheaded for treason on Tower-hill, 28th January, 8 king William III. 1696. The evidence against him Avas very defective, as was fuby ac knowledged by parliament, in a future declaratory act, that Fenwick's case should not be considered as a precedent. He married the Right Hon. Lady Mary, eldest daughter of Charles HoAvard, Earl of Carlisle, by Avhom he had four children, one daughter and three sons : Jane, the eldest, died very young, and was buried in a vault in the parish church of St. Nicholas, in Newcastle upon Tyne. Charles, having attained the age of 15 years, died of the small-pox ; Wibiam was six years old, and Howard a year and a half, when they departed this life. These three sons lie with their father in the parish church of St. Martin in the Fields, London. Lady Fen wick died, 27th October, 1708, in the 50th year of her age.* Before his attainder, * Sir John Fenwick, of Fenwick Castle, in the county of Northumberland, Bart, a man of abilities, but profligate and restless, who had commanded a regiment in the service of William, as Prince of Orange, in 1676, was apprehended in Kent, when on his way to France, upon suspicion of being engaged in a plot to assassinate William III. He endeavoured to escape punishment by moving the king's compassion, represent ing that he had prevented his majesty's violent death previous to this last supposed design. He then at tempted to bribe one of the jury to starve the others into an acquittal, declaring, "this or nothing can save vol. 11. 2 T 166 MORPETH WARD— W. D. Sb John sold Wabington demesne and other lordships to the second Sb Wibiam Blackett. This is said to have been a very cheap purchase: Sir John Fenwick, as also his lady, retained very considerable annuities out of the estate, which the attain der and execution of the former, and the death of the latter in the prime of bfe, soon annulled. William Blackett, the first baronet, having settled in Newcastle upon Tyne* ac quired the freedom of that town, and, by unceasing industry and the produce of his mines and colberies, gained a large fortune, whilst the strictest probity and honour in his dealings obtained him the highest credit and confidence of his townsmen. In the year 1660, he was appointed sheriff of Newcastle, and soon afterwards alderman of that corporation ; was governor of the hostmen's company in 1662 and 1663, and again in 1667 and 1668 ; mayor of Newcastle in 1666 ; and one of the representatives of that town in parbament from 1673 to 1680. Soon after he was returned to parlia ment, he received the honour of knighthood from king Charles II. and was, the same year, advanced to the dignity of baronet (letters patent, dated 12th December, 1673). He married, first, Elizabeth, daughter of Michael Kirkley, or Kirklair, a respectable merchant in Newcastle, by whom he had issue several children, of Avhom three sons and three daughters survived him. She departed this bfe April 7, 1674; and he my life." This also failing, he prevailed upon the principal evidence to leave the kingdom. The govern ment, having only one witness, yet resolutely dete'rmined to punish him, brought in a bill of attainder (a bold expedient), which, with great difficulty, passed both houses ; and, in consequence, he was beheaded on Tower-hill, January 23, 1696, aged 52, and was buried near the altar in the church of St. Martin's in the Fields, London, with his three sons. The precedents for this violent act were sought for by Dr. Burnet, bishop of Salisbury, in the reign of Henry VIII. who so loudly declaimed against the ill conduct of James II. He says that " I offered what resons occurred to him in justification of his giving his vote for the attainture ; but this did not exempt him from falling under a great load of censure upon this occasion." — See Granger's Biographical History qf England, vol. i. p. 199- This writer, in the same volume, p. 333, gives the following account of Sir John Fenwick's affectionate wife :— " Lady Mary, eldest daughter of Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, was the amiable wife of the profligate and criminal Sir John Fenwick, Bart, of Wallington, in Northumberland, and endeavoured with as much zeal to obtain the liberty of a faithless, tyrannical husband, as if he had been a true and gentle one, and even requested to share his confinement ; but he would not permit it, because he knew " it would kill her.'' She attempted to bribe two of the witnesses against him, Porter and Goodman. The former pretended to be overcome with her promises ; and, having drawn her ladyship and Chancey, an agent, into a private apart ment, he placed witnesses in an adjoining room, who came in and seized them with the money which they had brought ; in consequence of which, Chancey was convicted of subornation and perjury, and pilloried ; but she succeeded in buying off Goodman, who disappeared. All her exertions, however, did not save Sir John, who had the indulgence of being executed by the axe instead of the halter, more on account of Lady Mary's birth, and an attention due to her, than from any claim of his own for such a commutation of his sentence. This lady died October 27, 1708, being then in her 50th year, and was buried in York cathedral. The epitaph on her monument asserts, ' her life was a patrimony to the poor and friendless, and ber many virtues make her memory precious.' " The ardent and steady love evinced by Lady Mary for her husband does not countenance the charge of his domestic tyranny ; while the subsequent vote of the House of Com mons, relative to his case, does not certainly corroborate the truth of his criminality. - For further particulars of the Blackett family, see Matfen, Wylam, and Newcastle. Mr. John Straker, of Newcastle, in 1819 published "Memoirs ofthe Public Life of Sir Walter Blackett, Bart, of Wallington," &c. HARTBURN PARISH. 167 married, secondly, the widow of Captain John Rogers, of Newcastle, daughter of a Mr. Cock of that town, and a relative of Alderman Cock.* Sir William died, May 16, 1680, and was buried in St. Nicholas' church, Newcastle. He is said to have been possessed of excebent talents for business, and unwearied in their application, though engaged in a great variety and extent of affairs ; and being successful without pride, and rich without ostentation, he lived generally esteemed, and died universally la mented. His issue were, 1. Wibiam Blackett, who died young, and Avas buried in St. Nicholas' church, Newcastle, 9th August, 1654. 2. Isabella Blackett, who was married to Shern Bridges, Esq. of Ember Court, in the county of Surrey. 3. Edward Blackett, eldest surviving son, and second baronet, 4. Christian Blackett, who mar ried Robert Mitford, Esq. of Seghill, in the county of Northumberland, and had issue three sons, who all died unmarried, and a daughter, married to the Rev. — Laidman, of Whalton. 5. Michael Blackett, second surviving son, succeeded his father in bu siness, and was appointed sheriff of Newcastle in 1676, and afterwards alderman of that town. He married Dorothy, daughter of Alderman Barnes, by whom he had issue one daughter, Ebzabeth Blackett, who died young, 12th January, 16775 and was buried in St. Nicholas' church. The said Michael died. April 26, 1683, and was also buried in that church. His wife survived him, and married (secondly) Sir Richard Brown, Bart, and (thirdly) the Rev. Dr. John Moore, bishop of Ely. 6. John Blackett, who died young, and was buried in St. Nicholas' church, Newcastle, 4th May, 1654. 7. Wibiam Blackett, third surviving son, and also a merchant in New castle, of whom hereafter. 8. Christopher Blackett, who died young, and was buried in St. Nicholas' church, 8th July, 1678. And, 9. Elizabeth Blackett, who married Timothy Davison, Esq. of Beamish, in the county of Durham. The second Sb Wibiam Blackett, third son of Sir William, tracing the steps of his worthy sire, was elected alderman of Newcastle ; mayor, 1683 and 1698 ; governor of the hostmen's company, 1684, 1691, and 1692 ; and one of the representatives of that town in parbament, from 1685 to his decease in 1705. He was advanced to the dig nity of baronet, January 23, 1684; and filled the office of high sheriff of Northum berland in 1689 (1st Wbliam and Mary), having previously purchased the Wabing- ton estate. Sb* Wbbam married Julia, only daughter of Sir Christopher Conyers, Bart, and had issue two sons and eight daughters ; and after a well spent life, he died, December 29, 1705, equally regretted and respected as his father. His lady surviving him, married, secondly, Sir Wibiam Thompson, knight, recorder of Lon don, and baron of the exchequer. The issue of Sir William were, 1. Wbbam Blackett succeeded to the honours and estates of his father, and being appointed alderman of Newcastle, was mayor of that town in 1718, governor of the hostmen's company from 1725 to 1728, and one of the representatives in parliament for the town of Newcastle from 1710 to his death in 1728, He married the Hon. * Sir William had no issue by his second wife. Alderman Ralph Cock was an eminent merchant in New castle, where he acquired a large fortune ; his residence was in one of the narrow lanes on the Quayside, since called (after him) " Cock's Chare ;" he left four daughters, viz. Dorothy, wife of Mark Milbank ; Jane, wife of William Carr ; Ann, wife of Thomas Davison ; and Barbara, wife of Henry Marley, all eminent merchants in Newcastle. Alderman Cock used to call his daughters his " four canny hinnies ;" and " as rich as Cock's canny hinnies," was a proverbial saying at that time. 168 MORPETH WARD— W. D. Lady Barbara Vilbers, daughter of Wbbam Earl of Jersey, by whom he had no issue ; and dying September 25, 1728, the baronetcy granted his father became extinct.* By his will, dated August 14, 1728, he left his natural daughter, Elizabeth Ord, abas Blackett, daughter of Elizabeth Ord, of West Ord, in the county of Durham, sole heir of his immense property, on condition that she should intermarry with his ne phew, Walter Calverley, within twelve months after his decease, which marriage in consequence took place. Walter Calverley by this arrangement held the estate, with remainder to his first and other sons in tail male, with remainder to the other sons of Sir William's sisters. He devised his fourth part of the manor of Winlaton, in the county of Durham, upon trust, by sale or mortgage, to raise money to pay his debts, legacies, and funeral expences, and upon further trust, to pay to his wife, Lady Bar bara Blackett, several annual or yearly sums therein mentioned. 2. Christopher Blackett, second son, died in infancy. 3. Julia Blackett, who married, January 7, 1706, Sir Walter Calverley, Bart, and had issue one son, Walter Calverley, Avho mar ried Elizabeth Ord as before mentioned, and one daughter, Julia Calverley, who mar ried Sir George Trevelyan, Bart, of Nettlecomb, near Taunton, in Somersetshire. 4. Elizabeth Blackett, who married Wbliam Marshall, Esq. eldest son of Sir John Marshall, knt, and had issue tAvo daughters ; Ann Marshab, who married Peter Stan ley, of Little Pacton, in the county of Huntingdon, Esq. but died without issue ; and Lucy Marshall, who married Nicholas Wescomb, of Chevereb's Green, in the county of Hertford, Esq. and who also died without issue; 5. Isabeba Blackett, third daughter, died young. 6. Frances Blackett, fourth daughter, who married, February 8, 1728-9, the Hon. Robert Bruce, eldest surviving son of Charles Lord Bruce, third * Sir William's conduct, during the rebellion, having been considered very doubtful, when he was pro posed to serve the office of mayor of Newcastle, in 1717, he was rejected by the loyal inhabitants of that town, and was elected the year following, only on his producing two letters from the secretaries of state, testifying that he was well affected to government. Rae says, that "about the latter end of September, 1715, warrants were issued from the secretaries of state, for apprehending the Earl of Derwent Water, the Lord Widdrine* ton, the Lord Dunbar, Sir Marmaduke Constable, papists, Sir William Blackett, member of parliament for Newcastle upon Tyne, Thomas Forster, jun. of Elherston, knight of the shire for Northumberland and several other conspirators in the north, The Lord Dunbar and Sir Marmaduke Constable were accordingly secured ; but the rest, to prevent this fate, assembled in arms at Green Rig, in Northumberland on the 6th of October, and commenced a rebellion there, which was carried on in concert with the Earl of Mar." This however, as far as relates to Sir William, cannot be correct, from the letters produced by him in 1718. Patten, in his History of the Rebellion, speaking of Sir William, says, " If all that was said of this o-entle- man's conduct was true, they were not in the wrong to have some dependence upon his assistance • but whe ther or not he was actually engaged, remains a secret ; for he managed so well as to keep out of the way. His interest is indeed very considerable in the town of Newcastle, being one of their representatives in par liament, and he has in his service a great many colliers and keelmen, who, in flat boats called keels convey the coals from the collieries to the ships. He has likewise several lead mines on that side of the country, which employ a great many hands. Whether his interest was so strong among the people as to bring them to take arms, by his order, against their sovereign, I will not say, or whether they received any orders of that kind from him ; but this we had a certain account of, viz. that these men were ordered to provide them selves with arms, and to be ready to go with one, who is a kind of steward or governor over them, wherever he should direct ; but whether this was to be for the service of the government, or for the service of the Pretender, is not certainly known." HARTBURN PARISH. 169 Earl of Aylesbury, but died without issue. 7. Isabella Blackett, who married, Sep tember 15, 1743, the Right Hon. David Earl of Buchan, but died without issue, on the 14th May, 1763, and was buried at Hampstead on the 21st May following. 8. Mary Blackett, the sixth daughter, died young. 9. Diana Blackett, seventh daughter, married Sir William Wentworth, of Bretton Hab, in the county of York, Bart, and had issue five sons and three daughters ; of whom Sir Thomas Wentworth, his only surviving son, succeeded to his title (as fifth baronet) and estates, and served the office of high sheriff of Yorkshire in the year 1765. He, on the decease of Sir Walter Blackett, in 1777, succeeded to the entailed estates of the Blackett family, and according to the provisions of his uncle's wib, as sumed the name of Blackett ; and died without issue, at Bretton Park, July 9, 1792. The entail ceasing with him, there being no male issue from any of the other branches of Sir Wibiam's family, he bequeathed his ample possessions to Diana, wife of Tho mas Richard Beaumont, Esq. ; — to Mrs. Lee, and Mrs. Stackpole, and to William BosArihe, Esq. only son of Godfrey Bosvibe, Esq. by a daughter of Sir Wibiam Wentworth, Bart. 10. Anne Blackett, eighth daughter, was twice married ; first, to John Trenchard, Esq. and secondly, to — Gordon, Esq. of Abbots Leigh, in the county of Somerset, but died Avithout issue, in April, 1783. Sir Walter C. Blackett, Bart, was born December 29, 1708, and was the son and heb of Sir Walter Calverley, of Calverley, Yorkshire. On August 29, 1729, he married Ebzabeth, daughter and heiress of his uncle, Sir William Blackett, in conformity with whose wbl he took and used the sirname and arms of Blackett only. On the 13th of October, in that year, he was admitted to the freedom of Newcastle upon Tyne, and shortly after was elected an alderman of that corporation. In 1732, he served the office of high sheriff for the county of Northumberland; and in May, 1734, was re turned one of the representatives for Newcastle, which high station, notwithstanding some contested elections, he filled until his death, by a great majority of votes, during the long period of 40 years. In the fobowing year, he served the office of mayor of Newcastle, as also again in the years 1748, 1756, 1764, and 1771. He erected, in 1736, the handsome edifice on the south side of St, Nicholas' church, in Newcastle, for the reception of the library bequeathed to the inhabitants by Dr. Thomlinson. On the death of his father, October 17, 1749, he succeeded to the title of baronet, and also to the estates of Calverley and Eshott, both of which he soon after sold. His princely income was employed in acts of public utility. His exertions in establishing the Newcastle Infirmary, his founding an hospital in that town to maintain six poor unmarried and decayed burgesses, and his liberal distribution of money and provisions in times of scarcity, were striking proofs of his humane and charitable disposition. He also, in the course of eleven years, laid the foundation for the augmentation of seventeen smab livings in the county, His munificence to Hexham will be noticed hereafter. The charities of his amiable consort were equally constant, extensive, and bountiful. She died September 21, 1759, and was buried in the family vault in St. Nicholas' church, Newcastle. Sir Walter himself died in London, February 14, 1777, aged 59 years, and was buried in Calverley church. Leaving no issue, his title became extinct. He bequeathed a legacy of £ 40,000 to Walter Trevelyan, Esq. and numerous legacies to the poor and to his friends, with annuities to his servants. He vol. ii, 2 U 170 MORPETH WARD— W. D. Avas tall, web proportioned, and had an erect, dignified carriage. His complexion was florid, and his features regular and expressive. Though he did not figure as an orator, yet, from his independence, he possessed considerable influence in parbament. After the accession of George III. he left the opposition, and became a strenuous supporter of the court party ; which circumstance, with the part he took in the violent party question relative to the town-moor, injured his popularity in Newcastle : but the in fluence of his affable deportment, unbounded benevolence, and generous hospbality, could never be seriously diminished. He had the Blackett estates for his bfe ; but, in 1752, he purchased Wallington, which was sold by an order of chancery to pay off Sir Wibiam Blackett's debts, and this estate was inherited by his sister's issue. The other estates, at his death, in default of male issue of the other sisters, descended to Sir Thomas WentAVorth, son of Diana Blackett, as before mentioned. Julia, sister of Sir Walter Blackett, married Sir George Trevelyan, Bart, (son of Sir John Trevelyan, of Nettlecomb, near Taunton, Somersetshire, Bart.) He had issue, Sir John, of whom hereafter ; Julia, married, January, 1756, to Sir William Yea, of Tyrland, Somersetshire, and had issue six sons ; Susanna, married, February 3, 1764, to John Hudson, of Bessingby, in Yorkshire, Esq. ; Charlotte, married, Aprb, 1757, to Tobias Freer, Esq.; Frances, married, January 14, 1761, to Capt. James Feild; and Walter, Avho married, January 13, 1772, the eldest daughter of the late James Thornton, of Netherwitton, Esq. a joint heiress, by which means he became possessed of that estate, — he served the office of high sheriff of Northumberland in 15 George III. or 1775. Sir John Trevelyan, Bart, born 1735, succeeded to his family possessions Decem ber 28, 1768. He married Louisa Marianna, daughter and coheiress of Peter Sy- mond, Esq. a very opulent merchant of Austin Fryers* London, Avith Avhom he got a fortune of £20,000 ; and by her (who died in 1772) he had issue four sons and one daughter: 1. John, by whom he was succeeded. 2. The Rev. Walter, who married Charlotte, third daughter of the late John Hudson, of Bessingby, in Yorkshire, Esq. by Avhom he has nine children. 3. George, in holy orders, archdeacon of Bath, and canon residentiary of the cathedral of Webs, who married Harriet, third daughter of Sir Richard Neave, Bart, of Dagnam Park, Essex, by whom he has six children. 4. Willoughby, who died in 1784. And, 5. Louisa. Sir John, in 1777, Avas elected member for NeAvcastle upon Tyne, and in the three succeeding parliaments he was knight of the shire for the county of Somerset. Sir John, eldest son of the above, married, August 16, 1791, Maria, third daughter of the late Sir Thomas Spencer Wilson, of Charlton, in Kent, Bart, (sister to Marn-a- ret, wife of Lord Arden, and Jane, wife of the late Right Honourable Spencer Per ceval), by whom he has a large family, the eldest, a son, named Walter Calverley. This ancient family takes its name from Trevelyan, or Trevilian, in the parish of St. Vehep, near Fowey, in Cornwall, of which, and other lordships in that county, they were anciently possessed, at or soon after the Conquest. A mile east of Wallington is a stone bridge over the Wansbeck, at the south end of which, on each side of the road, are the grass-grown ruins of a considerable vibage. East Shaftoe is situated on the southern extremity of the parish. The old hall is finely seated on the south side of an eminence, adorned with all the ornaments of BOLAM PARISH. 171 wood and water. Behind the hab stands Shaftoe Crag, a lofty and most picturesque eminence, the sides of which afford a fine pasturage. The rock called Shaftoe Hab contains a spacious natural cave, wherein 40 persons might be seated. In old records, Shaftoe is always spelt Schafthow, which Mr. Hedley conjectures to be compounded of the German schafi a sheep, and the Anglo-Saxon hoe, a hill. This place gives name to a very ancient Northumbrian family. After remaining long in the posses sion of the Shaftoes, it became the property of the Aynsleys, and latterly of the Vaughans, the last of whom sold it to Robert Horsley, Esq. of Bolam. It now be longs to Lord Decies. West Shaftoe is a contiguous township, Avhich was the estate and residence of the Aynsleys before they acquired Little Harle. It Avas lately purchased by Lord Decies. Deanham is a township that lies at a short distance south from Wallington, and is the property of Sir Charles Loraine, Bart. BOLAM PARISH. The parish of Bolam is bounded on the north by Hartburn parish, on the east by Meldon and Whalton, on the south by Stamfordham, and on the west by Kirk- whelpington and part of Hartburn. It is about 4 miles in length, and 2^ miles in breadth ; and is divided into eight townships, three of which are in this division, four in the north-east division of Tindale Ward, and one in the Avest division of Castle Ward. The entire parish contains 119 houses, and 651 inhabitants. There are two schools, containing about 70 children ; and about twice the number attend the Sun day schools. Bolam is a pleonastic compound of the Scandinavian bol, a habitation, and the Anglo-Saxon ham. It is a small vibage, seated on a rising ground, 9^ mbes west- south-west from Morpeth. The church, which is dedicated to St. Andrew, is an ancient structure. It contains the effigy of a knight templar, cut in stone, in the usual habit and attitude, supposed to be that of Sir Walter de Bolam ; also a tomb of the Middletons of Belsay castle. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the crown, valued in the king's books at £6, 13*. 4c?. This village is said to have consisted of 200 slated houses ; but it now contains only the vicarage, a school-house, one farm stead, a public house, and two cottages. The vicarage is rated as a distinct township. West of the village is an oblong piece of ground, 120 yards long, and 80 broad, forti fied Avith a vallum and double trench, having a raised pass leading to it. Wallis con jectures it was the keep or fort for the security of the toAvn. Warburton thinks it is a Saxon work ; but Gale and Hutchinson attribute it to the Romans. Mr. Gale eAren goes further, and thinks it probable that Bolam might have been the town of Glano- Arenta, which Mr. Camden concluded was somewhere on the banks of the Wansbeck. The Herman-street passes at a short distance west from Bolam, and in many places is perfectly to be distinguished. Close by this military way are two pillars of stone, and betwixt them a tumulus, which Mr. John Warburton opened. It contained a stone coffin, about three feet in length, two in breadth, and two in depth, which was black on the inside with smoke, and had in it several lumps of glutinous matter. It was covered over with two flat stones, and not above a yard in depth from the summit of the tumulus, but had neither inscription, bones, coins, urns, nor other remarkable 172 MORPETH WARD— W. D. thing about it. On the north-east side of Bolam moor is a rock, trenched round, con taining the ruins of interior buildings ; but its history is lost in the oblivion of ages. Bolam was the barony of Sir Gilbert de Bolham, to whom it was granted by king John. It next was possessed by Sir Walter de Bolham, and by his son, and John and James de Calcey, in the reign of king Henry III. ; by Alice de Bolam, and James de Calcey and his wife Alice, 1 king Edward I. A mediety of Bolam was afterwards possessed by the ancient family of Raymes in the time of king Edward III. as ap pears by the escheats of the several reigns of king Richard II. king Henry IV. king Henry VI. queen Elizabeth, and king Charles I. It remained in that family for many generations. Bolam was afterwards possessed by the Horsley s. In 1809, the heiress of this branch of the Horsleys married the Rev. J. W. Beresford, now Lord Decies, son of the Lord Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of all Ireland. Lord De cies and his lady reside occasionaby at Bolam flab. Gallow Hill. — This township lies south-west from Bolam. It was lately pur chased by Lord Decies. The hill from which it is named was, no doubt, the place of execution for the Bolam barony, before the jus furcce was taken from the lords. Belsay is about 3 miles south from Bolam, 9 miles west-south-west from Mor peth, and 14 miles north-west from Newcastle. It contains six or seven dwebing houses. Belsay Castle is seated on a rising ground, interspersed with trees. It consists of an old tower, to which additions were made by Sir Charles Middleton, who died in 1628. The domestic chapel stood in a field to the south, and aboA^e the castle is an ancient stone cross. Sir Charles, the present proprietor, has been seA^eral years em ployed in erecting a spacious and elegant mansion. This splendid edifice is designed agreeably to the purest models of Grecian architecture, and presents the most dignified simplicity, without any false and meretricious ornaments. The proprietor, being an ardent admirer of classical antiquity, has travelled through Greece to improve his taste, of which this family seat will probably remain for ages a noble specbnen. Part of the old castle is noAv demolished. Belsay is the ancient seat and inheritance of the Middletons. It was possessed by Sir John Middleton in the reign of king Edward II, At this turbulent period, Sir John Middleton, Sir Gilbert Middleton, and Walter Selby, were leagued together for mutual defence. These fiery and warlike Northumbrians becoming incensed against the king, disclaimed his authority in the year 1317, and took all the castles in the county,, except AlnAvick, Bambrough, and Norham. This party made an incursion into the county of Durham, when Lewis Beaumont Avas travebing northward to be installed at Durham on the high festival of St. Cuthbert. He was attended by a numerous and splendid retinue, and accompanied by his brother, Henry Beaumont, and by Romish cardinals, who were charged with a pacific embassy into Scotland. At Dar lington the bishop was met by a messenger from the convent, to warn him that the road Avas in possession of marauders ; but the high rank and sacred dignity of Lewis and his companions seemed to place danger at defiance, and the friendly notice was treated Avith neglect or suspicion. A few hours verified the prediction. At Rushy- ford, midway betwixt the small villages of Woodham and Ferryhib, the road crosses BOLAM PARISH. 173 a smab and sullen rivulet, in a sequestered spot, web calculated for surprise and the prevention of escape. Here a desperate band anxiously awaited the arrival of their prey ; and the bishop and his companions had no sooner reached the ford, than they were enveloped in a cloud of light horsemen, under the command of Sir Gilbert Mid dleton. After rifling the whole party, Middleton restored the cardinals' horses, and suffered them to proceed on their journey to Durham, where their influence was suc cessfully used in exciting the bberality of the monastries towards their captive prelate. The bishop, meanwhbe, and his brother, Henry Beaumont, were carried off with the rapidity of a Border raid, across a tract of 60 miles, through the heart of the bishopric and Northumberland, to the castle of Mitford, of which, says Graystanes, Middleton was the keeper, not the proprietor. The treasures of the church were cheerfully la vished for Lewis' redemption ; and after giving security for the payment of a heavy ransom to the successful freebooter, both the captives were liberated. Middleton's good fortune soon after deserted him : he was surprised in his strong-hold of Mitford, as before related, by some neighbouring chief, betrayed into the hands of government, and was executed at London.* His followers, neither reclaimed nor dismayed, fled to range themselves under the banner of Walter Selby, who still held the little for tress of Horton. In consequence of these daring exploits, the lands of Sir John Mid dleton were seized for the king's use, and given to John de Cromwell, and Thomas de Bambrough, clerk, in the year 1319. On the death of Cromweb, they were granted to Sir John de Striveling, knt. a celebrated commander under king Edward III. who was summoned to parliament among the barons of the realm in the 16th year of that reign. John de Middleton (a descendant of the before-mentioned Sir John Middleton) married Christiana, the daughter and sole heiress of Sir John de Striveling. He was infeoffed during the reign of king Henry V. in the manor and villa of Brunton, as was found by an inquisition after their deaths in the 10th of the same reign. They were succeeded by their son and heir, Sir John de Middleton, then upwards of 40 years of age, who was returned among the gentlemen of Northumberland by the commissioners, 12 king Henry VI. ; by Sir John de Middleton, high sheriff of Northumberland, 1 king Edward IV. and a repre sentative for it in parliament, 12th of the same reign ; by Thomas Middleton, a com missioner for enclosures upon the Middle Marches, 6 king Edward VI. ; by Robert Middleton, 10 queen Elizabeth ; by Thomas Middleton, one of the parliament-com missioners for sequestering lands in Northumberland, 19 king Charles I. 1643. He was succeeded by * " I cannot agree with my predecessor, Hutchinson, that Middleton was actuated on this occasion solely by resentment. The king had, it seems, used Middleton's relative, Adam Swinburn, harshly in some busi ness of the Marches ; and the former, in vindication of the family honour, adopted the pious resolution of robbing the bishop of Durham. The times were lawless, the government weak, and the gentry of the North were frequently obliged to take upon themselves the defence of their own property ; and, with all its hazards and inconveniences, the life of a freebooter had some romantic and some substantial attractions, which seem to have rendered it very difficult for a Borderer, who had once adopted it, to retrace his steps towards the path of allegiance and legitimate subjection. Under the first Edward, the gentlemen of the English March were faithful subjects ; under his feeble successor, they were frequently, from necessity rather than choice, freebooters and outlaws." — Surtees' Durham, vol. i. page xxxix. VOL. II, 2 X 174 MORPETH WARD— W. D. I. Sir William Middleton, who was created a baronet, October 24, 1662, and was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1666. He married, first, Mary, daughter of Tho mas Wentworth, Esq. of Elmsall, in Yorkshire, and had issue by her (who died Sep tember 16, 1667) four children, who died unmarried; secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of John Munday, Esq. of Markheaton, in Derbyshire, and by her (who died February 23, 1680) had issue Sir John, his successor ; Elizabeth, married — Clavering, Esq. ; Mary, Martha, and Wibiam, ab died without issue. Sir Wbbam died in March, 1690, and was succeeded by his son, II. Sir John, born March, 1678, married Frances, daughter and sole heiress of John Lambert, Esq. of Calton, in Craven, in Yorkshire, who Avas descended from Wibiam Lambert, who married Gundred, grand-daughter to king Wbliam I. widow to Roger Beaumont, Earl of Warwick, of the same name with her mother, wife of Wibiam Count de Warren, whom the king enriched with many seigniories. This lady of the blood royal was mother to Waberon, Earl of Warwick, also to Henry de Lambert, standard-bearer to king Henry II. A. D. 1167, who married Abce, sister to Wibiam Maundeville, Earl of Essex, by whom he had John Lambert, Esq. who Avas presented with a very considerable estate by his uncle, the Earl, at Skipton, in Yorkshbe, after wards the seat of the famby till their removal to Calton. He was father to Sir Ed mund Lambert, knt. and to Thomas Lambert, sheriff of London, 7 king Henry III. 1215 : and grandfather to Edmund Lambert, Esq. who married into the family of Calverley, of Calverley, in Yorkshire, formerly the seat and estate of Sir AValter Cal verley, Bart, father of the late Sir Walter Calverley Blackett, of Wallington, in this county, Bart. This family received many marks of royal favour in different reigns. Four of them were honoured with the order of knighthood. Thomas Lambert, Esq. of Skipton, married Ellen, daughter and heir of Thomas Wykis, Esq. of Flithy, without her father's consent, and even here an award* was made to compel the * This document is too curious to be omitted. It is addressed " To owre right trustie and entyrely beloved cosyn and counsellor Charles Duke of Suffolk owre lyevetenant in the north partes, and to our counsel there established. " Deed of Award, viz. — To all christen people to whom this present writinge shall come, se, rede, or hearde. Forasmuch as ther has been certain variance, debate, and strife, had and moved betwixt Thomas Lambart of Skipton, Gent, sonn of John Lambart of Preston, deceased, and Thomas Wikes of Flithy, Gent. for and touching the weddinge of Ellen the only daughter ofthe said Thomas Wikes, which the said Thomas Lambart wedded at kirk dore without his love and his leave gitten or asking before ; for the which variance and strife hath the said parties standen bounden eyther to other to. fulfill and holde the award and doome of hus Richard Cockson, the vicar ofthe kirk of Batoley, William Blackburne, cannon of Bolton, William Daw son, prest. and Thomas Ferrand, Gent. Whereupon we awarde, ordaine, and dome, the said parties to be accorded and frendful for evermore, and that the said Thomas Lambart shall for evermore do knowledge to the said Thomas Wikes as his fadder in lawe, and shall geve as good a childes part to little Christer his sonn, gitten by the said Ellen in lawful wedloch, as to his toher sonnes, called John and gitten and born by his first wyfe in that wedlock, and shall make the said Christopher his heire (if his brother die) before the sisters that are of the hale blood to the alder barnes, and the said Ellen shall go to Flithy to aide Mrs Wilkes her grandam, and to her fader and moder, and ask all their blessinge and forgivenesse for God and our Lady sake, and they shall forgeve her, and speake to her afterwards as to their awne barne. And we ordaine, awarde, and dome also as follows, that the said Thomas Wikes shall geve to his daughter Ellen no other childes part than he vontis meet, but if his sonn Henry Wikes doe die before him, the said Ellen and her BOLAM PARISH. 175 offended parent to approve of her marriage. The famous General Lambert, who commanded the parbament army during the usurpation, was of this ancient family, as appears by their genealogy, attested by Camden, St. George, Segar, and Tressweb. Sir John Middleton had issue, Sir William, his successor ; Sir John, 4th baronet ; Robert, Barbara, Elizabeth, Frances, and Catharine, all died unmarried ; Thomas, of Maldon, in Yorkshire, died February 27, 1792, having married Barbara, daughter of — Guy, Esq. of Newcastle upon Tyne, and had issue Barbara, married Hugh Nauney, in holy orders, vicar of Haltwhistle in Northumberland. Sir John died in 1721, and was succeeded by his eldest son, III. Sir William, representative in parbament for the county of Northumberland, married Anne, daughter and coheiress of William Ettrick, purchaser of the Sbks- worth estate, and by her (who died December 12, 1763) had no issue. Sir Wibiam died September, 1757, and was succeeded by his brother, IV. Sir John Lambert, married Anne, daughter of Sir Nathaniel Hodges, of the city of London, knt. Avidow of Charles Perkins, Esq. and by her (who died in 1762) had issue, Sir Wibiam, his successor ; Thomas, died in 1772, unmarried ; Elizabeth, married Jacob Reison, Esq. and died without issue ; Frances, married, in 1770, Sir George Cooke, Bart, of Wheatley, Yorkshire, deceased, leaving issue Barbara, died young ; John, died in November, 1778, having married Catharine, daughter of Amos Thorne, Esq. of Cork, in Ireland. Sir John Lambert died, March 22, 1768, and was succeeded by, V. Sir William, born June 6, 1738, many years representative in parliament for the county of Northumberland, married Jane, only surviving daughter and issue of Lau rence Monck, Esq. of Caenby, in Lincolnshire, and had issue, William Laurence, died young ; Thomas Ogle, died young ; Charles Mbes Lambert, the present baronet ; Jane Maria, born January 16, 1782 ; Isabella Ceciba Viviana. Sir Wbliam died July 7, 1795, and was succeeded by his only surviving son, VI. Sir Charles Miles Lambert Monck, the present baronet, who, in 1799, changed his name from Middleton to Monck, in compbance with the wib of his grandfather, Laurence Monck, Esq. He married, September 11, 1804, Louisa Lucia, 5th daugh ter of Sir George Cooke, Bart, of Wheatley, in Yorkshire, and has issue, the eldest of whom is Charles Atticus, born at Athens, July 17, 1805, and baptized at Belsay Castle in 1806. Sir Charles was high sheriff of the county, 41st George III. and was returned one of its representatives in parliament in 1812, and again in 1818. He was distin guished in the House for his warm advocacy of the Greek cause, in the Ionian Islands. Shoktflat Toweu stands about two miles south by west from Bolam. In the time of Edward II. it was in the possession of the Raymes famby, and afterwards barnes shall be heires, and he shall charge his said sonn Harry uppon his blessinge never to hinder this awarde. And if Harry do live longer than his fadir, the fadir shall give his land in Flithy, (alias Flashby) and Skipton to his sonn Thomas Lambart, or Christer his grandbarne, and bid Harry that he shall not make away that in Somersetshire. And we charge them on God's name to fulfill all this upon payne of curses of haly kyrke. In witness of this our awarde, we the said Richard Cockson, William Blackburne, William Dowson, and Thomas Ferrand, have sett our seales gyfven the xivth daye of February in the yeere of the reigne of Kinge Edward the Fourth, the one and twentieth." 176 MORPETH WARD— W D. belonged to the Fenwicks. It is now the property of Wibiam Dent, Esq. who spent his youth in the military service, and who still serves his country in the honourable office of a justice of the peace. Harnham is situated a short distance south-west from Shortflat. Here was also an ancient fortlet, which, with the estate, was held in capite of the king, 1 Edward I. 1272, by Bernard de Babington ; and in the reign of king Charles II. by Colonel Philip Babington, governor of Berwick upon Tweed. He married Catharine, the widow of Colonel George Fenwick, of Brinkburn : she was the eldest daughter of Sb Arthur Heselrigge, of Nosely, in Leicestershire, Bart, by Dorothy Greenvble, sister to Robert Lord Brooke. She was born at Brook House, London, in November, 1635 ; and was interred here in a lead coffin, in a vault cut out of the sobd rock. In 1760, most of the coffin and some of the bones were remaining. On a pane of glass, in the middle window of the house, her name and the colonel's, Avith the date of the year, are Avritten with a diamond : — " philip babington, sept. 5, 1668. k. babington, sept. 7, 1668," On another, — " hoav vain is the help of man. k. babington. omnia vanitas. june 9th, 1670." It is said, she was denied Christian burial by an excommunication for contempt of ecclesiastical censure * which was the reason of her sepulture in the curious grot in the rock. The colonel survived her, and marrying again, had several chbdren ; the youngest of whom he named after her, Catharine, who married one of the Pultenies, of Carlton, in York shire, where is a pedigree of the Babington family, beautifully illuminated. The crest, a dragon's head ; from the mouth proceeding the words, " Foy est tous." Sir John Babington, of the Harnham family, acquired this crest and motto of his coat- armour by a desperate service under king Henry IV. in France ; on his own petition, he was one of six young knights sent on this duty ; and on his leaving the royal pre-. sence, he brandished his sword, and exclaimed, " Foy est tous," that is — Faith is ab. Harnham occupies a singularly picturesque situation. Mr. Hodgson observes, that " seen before the setting sun, it appears like one of the fine towered hibs in the pic tures of Nicholas Poussin." Wallis derives the name from " harn, or hern, as a con traction of the Roman herman, from Hermes, the god of travellers and custos manium of highways, and of the Saxon herman, or hareman, a military road." Mr. Hedley remarks (Archaeologia iEiian a, vol. i. page 259) that this etymology is confused and inaccurate, "for Harnham," says he, "cannot be derived both from the Roman, or rather the Greek Hermes, and the Saxon hereman, which are words that have not the slightest mutual relation. Besides, hereman is not Saxon for a military road, but for miles, a soldier ; and it may be remarked further, that the place in question lies at the distance of nearly two miles from the Devil's Causeway — the mibtary road referred to by Wabis, and therefore not at all likely to derive its name from it. It is, I am per- * Mr. Hutchinson condemns this proceeding in his severest manner : — " It is a disgrace," he exclaims, " to a polished and enlightened nation, that such a court has existence ; but to a state professing the rights and and religious tenets, and enjoying the liberty of Britain, it is infamy ! A court where, in despight of the right of trial by juries, property is disposed by arbitrary sentence, and where the grossest acts of inquisitorial iniquity are daily practised ; such as private examination of witnesses, and suppression of evidence : and yet this scab upon the constitution remains uneradicated." — View of North, vol. i. p. 218. MORPETH PARISH. 177 suaded, to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon horn, a corner, and ham, a house or ha bitation. Nothing can be well more descriptive of its singular situation than this etymology, which will sufficiently appear from Wabis's own account of the place. ' It stands,' says he, ' on an eminence, and has been a place of great strength and security, a range of perpendicular rocks of rag-stone on one side, and a morass on the other ; the entrance by a narrow declivity to the north, which, in the memory of some persons now living, had an iron gate. The manor-house is on the south-west corner oi the precipice.' It is indeed, literally, a horn-ham, or corner house, which, by the change of a single letter, has been converted into Harnham." Bradford is situated on the south side of a rivulet, 2^ miles south-west from Bo lam. Treavick lies in a vale on the north side of the Blyth river, 3 miles south by east from Bolam. It is the property of Sir Charles Loraine, Bart. MORPETH PARISH, The parish of Morpeth is bounded on the north by part of the parish of Mitford and the parochial chapelry of Hebron, on the east by Bothal and Bedlington, on the south by the latter parish, Stannington, and Ponteland, and on the west by Whalton and Mitford. It extends from north to south 7 miles ; but the extreme breadth does not exceed 6 mbes. The soil is various. Near the town there is some good old grass land, and a strong loam incumbent on clay. In some parts there are good turnip soils, upon a dry, sandy bottom ; while others present a dark top and sandy bottom, or moss resting upon a white sandy clay. The farms are of a moderate size, and the rents at present vary from 15s. to £3 per acre. The rental of the whole parish in 1809 was £ 15,785 per annum. Coal has been found in most parts of the parish, and good freestone abounds. A dike or vein of whinstone proceeds from Cottenwood to the Wansbeck, which it crosses below the Quarry Bridge, and, running behind Park House, recrosses the river near St. Catherine's Well. This parish is divided into two parts : the one containing the Borough and Bubers Green ; and the other the townships of Newminster, Tranweb, Shilvington, and Twizeb, in the west division of Castle Ward, with Catchburn and Hepscott, in the east division ofthe same Ward. The entire parish, in 1821, contained 594 dwebing houses, and 4292 inhabitants. The amount ofthe poor-rate is as follows: — in 1815, £2140; in 1816, £1795; in 1817, £1874, 6s.; in 1818, £2250; in 1819, £2430, 3s. ; in 1820, £2069, 10*.; and in 1821, £1841, 17*.* In the year 1754, Thomas Pye willed £3, and a rent-charge on £20, to the poor of this parish ; and Mrs. Nay lor £2 in the same year. The former also left £5 annually to the poor-house. In the fol lowing year, Thomas Shipley willed £10 for the same purpose. William Steel, in 1705,- left £20, the interest of which was yearly to be expended in the purchase of bread for the poor. Edward Lumsden, in 1762, left by will a rent-charge of 8*. per annum to the poor. Jane and Edward Ward, in 1713, bequeathed by deed 10*. ; * The following is the part raised in the town of Morpeth: — 1815, £ 1629— 1816, £1327, 6s. — 1817, £1381, 1*.— 1818, £1760, 6s.— 1819, £1966, 3s.— 1820, £l66l, 12*.— 1821, £1410, 7*. The vestry affairs of this place have, during some years past, been the subject of much angry debate, squibbery, and litigation. VOL. II. 2 Y 178 MORPETH WARD— W. D. and John Wilkinson, in 1734, the like sum of 10*. annually to the poor. Other small sums have been left to the poor, of which no accurate record has been kept. Including the grammar-school, there are sixteen day-schools in Morpeth town, in which 520 children are instructed. The Methodist Sunday-school is attended by about 45 children, 20 of whom have no other means of education. There are also about 90 children who attend a Sunday-school under the superintendance of the Rev, George Atkin, 37 of whom receive no other education. Morpeth is 291^ miles north by west from London, 14| miles north by west from Newcastle, and 19^ miles south from Alnwick. Its name is supposed to have been derived from More-path, or the road through the more or moor. It is a web- built town, and is pleasantly seated on the northern banks of the river Wansbeck, in a warm and sheltered vale, and is surrounded by a fine cultivated country, and the most beautiful and picturesque scenery.* " Morpet," says Leland, Itin. vol. vii. p. 53, " a market towne, is xu longe mbes from NeAv Castle. Wansbeke, a praty ryver, rynnithe thrwghe the syde of the towne. On the hether syde of the river is the principall churche of the towne. On the same syde is the fayre castle stondinge upon a hill, longinge with the towne to the Lord Dacres of Gilsland. The towne is longe & metely well buylded with low housys, the streets pavyd. lt is far fayrar towne then Alnwicke." Alnwick must have been greatly improved since this comparison Avas made, or Morpeth has deteriorated. At present, this town stretches from the bridge about half a mile to the north-west, the river running nearly parabel with the bubd- ings for that distance. Several handsome modern houses have been recently erected in different parts of the town, particularly in the southern suburbs. Many of the houses have a smab garden attached, which must contribute essentiaby to the comfort, health, and morals of the inhabitants, who have also the advantage of possessing an abundance of excellent water. The market-place is conveniently situated near the centre of the town, though much too small for the numerous herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and pigs Avhich are there exposed for sale. The sheep-pens partly front the shops, leaving a narrow passage to the door, and are partly set up in narrow lanes adjoining the market-place. It would certainly be more convenient, and pre vent much dirt and confusion, were some contiguous place appropriated to the pur- * This river takes its rise from the back of the Wannie, which, in the British language, signifies the Green Crag, at the western extremity of Kirkwhelpington parish, and which name has, no doubt, been contracted into Wannies-beck. This Northumbrian river has been sung by Akenside, who wrote the first copy of his " Pleasures of Imagination" at Morpeth : — " O ye Northumbrian shades, which overlook The rocky pavement and the mossy falls Of solitary Wansbeck, limpid stream ; How gladly I recal your well-known seats, Beloved of old, and that delightful time When all alone for many a summer's day I wandered through your calm recesses, led In silence by some pow'rful hand unseen." MORPETH PARISH. 179 pose ; nor could it affect the interest of any individual were care taken to prevent new buildings from being erected Avhere the new stock-market might be placed. The cross is a commodious structure, on which is the fobowing inscription : — " the Hon. PHILIP HOWARD, AND SIR HENRY BELOSYSE, KNT. THE ONLY BENEFACTORS OF this cross, anno dom. 1699." On the west side of the market-place is the Town- hab. It is an elegant structure of hewn stone, with a piazza ornamented with rustic work : the superstructure, which is now in a state of dilapidation, is tastefully deco rated with turrets, and was erected in the year 1714, at the expence of the Carlisle family, whose manorial court is held in it. It has also been used as a public hab, a session-house, and the lower part is occasionaby converted into a theatre. Near the market-place is a square tower, containing a good ring of bells, which is very useful, as the church is at some distance from the town. Between the town-hab and the bridge stands the county-gaol, which wbl very shortly be pulled down. At the north-east end of the bridge, and fronting the river, is a very handsome modern-built chapel, of white freestone. The grammar-school, which was founded by king Edvrard VI. is kept in the west part. This was an old chantry, which was partly demolished at the dissolution of the monastries, and remained in that situation tib the school was erected. The king endowed it with the revenues of two dissolved chantries in Morpeth, and one at Netherwitton. The middle area of the old chantry to the west is pretty entire, only the windows are enlarged and the original entrance built up. The north area was almost totally demolished, and many houses built out of the materials on the ground. In a yard behind these houses, the ground-plan, which has been cruciform, may still be traced out. The bridge is a strong old structure, consisting of two wide arches. It is extremely narroAv, and so steep as to be very difficult in the ascent, and not less dangerous in the descent, especiahy to heavy-loaden waggons. Both to people on foot and horseback the passage is equally inconvenient and perilous. It is the property of the Earl of Carbsle, by Avhose family it Avas erected for the use and convenience of the burgesses. Though it has been indicted, yet it does not seem that either the lord of the manor or the corporation can be legally compelled to repair or rebubd it. The house of cor rection stands on the south side of the bridge. The parochial church is seated on an eminence called Kirkhib, on the west side of the post-road, and about a quarter of a mbe south of the river. It is dedicated to St. Mary, and is a very plain structure. It has three good aisles, a gabery at the west end, and another between the pillars of the north aisle. There are few inscriptions worthy of notice, except a Latin one in the chancel, belonging to the Greys of Chb- bngham. In this church was a chantry dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but by whom founded, or how endowed, is not known. John Anderson was chaplain 8 king Henry VII. The living is a rectory,* in the gift of the Earl of Carlisle, valued in the * 16'45, John Pye, rector. 1662, John Pye, his son, rector. 1672, he exchanges with Ralph Fenwick for Stamfordham. John Pye, in Ariibus Mag. 27 Mar. 1672, on resignation of Ralph Fenwick. 1691, Cuth bert Fenwick presented on death of John Pye. 1 745, Oliver Naylor presented on death of Cuthbert Fen wick. 1775, Jeffrey Ekins, D. D. : he was also rector of Sedgefield and dean of Carlisle, resigned 1782, died 1792. 1782, Jeffrey Ekins, A. M. succeeded his father; he married the daughter and coheir of — Tyler, of Whalton, son of the steward of the Portland family. Frederick Ekins is the present rector. 180 MORPETH WARD— W. D king's books at £32, 16*. 8d. The rectory-house, which stands on the east side ofthe road, is a very handsome building. The old baronial castle* stands at a short distance from the church. It is in ruins, little remaining thereof but an old gateway tower, inhabited by mechanics,! and part of the outward wab which enclosed the area and interior buildings. This space in cludes about an acre of ground, Avhich is now converted into a garden. It is placed on a lofty eminence, unassisted by art ; the northern side being secured by a deep valley. The tower has formerly had angular turrets at the north-east and south-east corners, with a communication by an open gallery, which was supported by project ing corbies : there is no portcullis. In the centre of the arched roof of the gateway is a square aperture, calculated to annoy assailants who should gain the outward gate. It commands a fine prospect, overlooking the town of Morpeth, and the banks of the Wansbeck, where large tracts of woodlands are beautifully disposed. Near this tower, towards the north-east, and on the other side of the deep dell or valley before mentioned, is a -round mound of earth, on a natural mount, whose height is greatly increased by art. It appears to have been raised rather by assailants than as an out work or defence to the castle ; for from thence, by engines, stones and missile wea pons might be thrown into the interior parts of the fortress, to annoy the garrison : and, agreeably to the modes practised in early times, perhaps this Avas cast up for an opposing fort and malvoisin on some blockade. The Aveekly market is held on Wednesday, for corn (sold by sample), butchers' meat, butter, eggs, poultry, &c. and for fat cattle and sheep : of the former, on an average, not less than 200 are sold Aveekly ; and of sheep and lambs about 2500; which are principally bought up for the consumption of Newcastle, Shields, Sunder land, &c4 Sixty years ago, there was not above one-fourth of this number offered for sale, and, for several weeks in the winter, very few sheep or cattle, if any, Avere exhi bited. At this time, also, the butchers of the neighbouring maritime ports were obliged to purchase a great deal of fat cattle in the vicinity of Darlington, and other parts of the county of Durham ; but circumstances are noAv changed, the north ern farmers being not only able to supply the increasing population of these places, but to send great .numbers of both fat cattle and sheep every year to Leeds, WakeT field, Manchester, and other manufacturing towns. The internal consumption of Morpeth is also considerable ; for, during the year 1822, there were 337 bubocks, 372 calves, and 3640 sheep and lambs killed. But this statement does not include ab the cattle and sheep killed by the butchers of Morpeth, as many are brought from the neighbourhood, and their skins inspected elsewhere. * Morpeth castle stondythe by Morpith towne, it is set on a highe hille, and about the hill is moche wood, Towne and castle belongeth to the Lord Dacres. It is well mayntayned."— Leland. ¦X 1627, 8, 9, Charles 1. Sir Edward Grey, of Morpeth Castle, was returned as grand juror, being there re, sident as tenant of the Howard family. % The cattle market lately established at Sunderland has not materially affected the demand here. The project for holding a weekly market for live cattle and sheep in Newcastle, was supported by many of the inhabitants, but rejected by the common council of that town. Many arguments were urged against the adoption of this plan, which would evidently prove highly injurious to the interests of Morpeth. MORPETH PARISH. 181 Morpeth has the privilege of two annual fairs ; the one held on the Wednesday se'nnight before Whitsuntide, for cattle, sheep, &c. and the other on the Wednesday preceding the 22d of July. There are also hiring-days for hinds, female servants, &c. which are subject to the control of the baihffs, who may alter them to suit the public convenience. The Queen's Head, the Old and New Phcenix, and the Black Bub, are the prin cipal inns ; and there are about thirty other inns and public houses, many of which possess very comfortable accommodations for travebers. There are also two common breweries : the subscription brewery, carried on by Messrs. J. and W. Thompson, is an extensive concern. The tanning business is carried on here with considerable spirit, there being four respectable tanneries ; and there is a flannel manufactory, be longing to Messrs. R. and B. Thompson. The banking house of Messrs. Lambton and Co. and that of Messrs. Chapman and Co. has each a branch establishment here, which is a great convenience to the butchers, farmers, and graziers, who attend the market. Morpeth, from its inland situation, is not advantageously situated for ma nufacturing establishments, so that its trade wib always depend upon its great market for agricultural stock and produce.* The Presbyterians have long had a meeting-house here ; the Methodists have also a neat place of worship, and the Roman Catholics a small chapel. The grammar- school was founded and endowed by Edward VI. ; and statutes and ordinances for this school were made by the baihffs and burgesses, and confirmed by the Right Rev. Father in God, Wbbam Lord Bishop of Durham, the 7th day of January, 1725, amongst which the following are particularly worthy of notice : — " 10. The master shab be of the degree of Master of Arts. 11, The usher shab be Bachelor of Arts. 13. They shab teach all freemen and brothers' children gratis. 14. That the sons of ab tenants and farmers, who have not a freehold estate above the value of £20 per annum, shab be taught for 20*. per annum, and the master and usher shab ask no more." By a return made to parliament, and printed in 1819, it then contained but twelve children, sons of freemen. By the royal charter, a chantry was given at Ne therwitton ; and, in consequence of some disputes one hundred years ago, an agree ment was made between the bailiffs of Morpeth and the proprietor of the estate, that £100 per annum should be paid in lieu of the said land belonging to the chantry; and which, with other charities and tenements, produce altogether £244 per annum, Two-thirds of this sum is paid to the master, and one-third to the usher, who give £70 between them to a writing assistant; and the master has about 45 extra scholars, who pay a quarterage, with 10 of the free boys, who pay for learning the mathema tics. Here is also a free school, which is attended by about 60 of the children of the burgesses. It is supported by subscriptions from the corporation and some of the in- * It has been recommended to render the bed of the Wansbeck navigable to Morpeth ; and as the tide flows up as far as Sheepwash, within four miles of the town, the project, it would seem, might be executed without much expence or difficulty. It would certainly be productive of incalculable advantages, not only to Morpeth, but to the surrounding country. There exist, however, some formidable obstacles against the adoption of this desirable scheme. Whilst on the subject of improvements, it may be proper to remark, that the pavement of the streets is generally in a most wretched condition. This defect would undoubtedly be remedied, if properly represented to the Earl of Carlisle. VOL. IL— (29) 2 Z 182 MORPETH WARD— W. D. corporated companies. The master has £47 per annum. Exclusive of the other four teen day-schools, there is a boarding-school here for young ladies, kept by Miss Lee. Besides a circulating library, kept by Mr. Stephen Wilkinson, a bookseber, there is a book-club, supported by the clergy and principal gentlemen of the town and neigh bourhood. Each member pays two guineas at entrance, and one guinea annually. The subscription is applied to the purchase of books, which are annuaby sold by auc tion. There is another simbar institution on a smab scale. Here is a Masonic lodge and a lodge of Odd Febows ; also four benefit societies belonging to men, and one to women, whose funds, it is said, are judiciously managed. The prosperity of the Savings Bank and the Bible society is much owing to the exertions of the Rev. Thomas Shute. During the last seven years, two hundred patients have, on an ave rage, been annually admitted into the Dispensary here ; but the number of applicants is gradually decreasing. Many officers upon half-pay have found Morpeth a cheap and agreeable place of residence. The inhabitants, in regard to good sense and general information, are cer tainly not inferior to those of any other country toAvn whatever ; and this place can boast of having been the birth-place or residence of many ibustrious characters, who have reflected honour on their country.* * William Turner, A. M. and M. D. was a native of Morpeth. He received his first academical education at Christ's College in Cambridge, under the patronage of Sir Thomas Wentworth. His tutor was the learned George Folbery, S. T. P. preceptor to the Duke of Richmond, brother to king Edward VI. He acquired great reputation for his learning, and was elected fellow of Pembroke Hall about the year 15S1. His coun tryman, Bishop Ridley, was then fellow of the same college, between whom and Dr. Turner there were a great intimacy and friendship, and both were strenuous advocates ofthe dawning reformaJfc>h. About 1536, he was admitted to deacon's orders, being at the same time Master of Arts. He applied himself with pecu liar diligence to philosophy and physics, and especially to the study of plants and the materia medica of the ancients. He complains of the little assistance he could receive in these pursuits. " Being yet a student of Pembroke Hall, where I could learn never one Greke, neither Latin, nor English name, even amongst the physicians, of any herbe or tree ; such was the ignorance of that time ; and as yet there was no English herbal, but one all full of unlearned cacographies and falsely naming of herbes." Uniting the character of divine and physician, agreeably to the practice of many others, he travelled in many parts of England, and propagated the doctrines of the reformation with so much zeal, that Bishop Gardiner had him thrown into prison. When set at liberty, he went into voluntary exile during the remainder of the reign of Henry VIII. This banishment proved favourable to his advancement in medical and botanical studies • he resided at Basil Strasburgh, and at Bonn, but principally at Cologn, with many other English refugees. He dwelt for some time at Weissenburgh ; and travelled also into Italy, and took the degree of doctor of physic at Ferrara. As at this period the learned were applying with great assiduity to the illustration of the ancients it was a for tunate circumstance for Dr. Turner, that he had an opportunity of attending the lectures of Lucas Ghinus at Bologna, of whom he speaks in his " Herbal" with great satisfaction, and frequently cites his authority against other commentators. Turner resided,a considerable time at Basil, whence he dates the dedication of his book " On the Baths of England and Germany." During his residence in Switzerland, he contracted a friendship with Gesner, and afterwards kept up a correspondence with him. Gesner had a hio-h opinion of Turner, as a physician and man of general learning, whose equal, he says, he scarcely remembered. This encomium occurs in Gesner's book " De Herbis Lunariis." On the accession of Edward VI. Dr. Turner re turned to England, was incorporated M. D. at Oxford, appointed a physician to the protector, Edward, Duke of Somerset, and, as a divine, was rewarded with a prebend of York, a canonry of Windsor, and the MORPETH PARISH. 183 In 1821, the town of Morpeth, including Bullersgreen, contained 485 inhabited houses, and 3670 inhabitants, being a decrease of 22 houses and 14 families since the year 1811. In 1819, the poor-rates in these places amounted to nearly 11*. 6d. a deanery of Wells. In 1552, he was ordained priest by Bishop Ridley. He speaks of himself, in the third part of his " Herbal," as having been physician to the " Erie of Embden, Lord of East Friesland." In 1551, he published the first part ofhis History of Plants, which he dedicated to the Duke of Somerset, his patron. But when queen Mary succeeded to the throne, he prudently returned to the continent, where he remained at Basil, or Strasburgh, until the accession of queen Elizabeth. He then returned, and was reinstated in his preferments ; but having altered his theological ideas while abroad, he now treated the English discipline and ceremonies with the most unqualified contempt. By this conduct he incurred the censure of the clergy, but was uniformly protected by the queen, who respected his honest and intrepid spirit. In the dedication ofthe complete edition of his " Herbal" to her in 1568, he acknowledges with gratitude her favours in re storing him to his benefices, and in other ways protecting him from troubles, having, at four several times, granted him the great seal for that purpose. Dr. Turner seems to have divided his time between his deanery, where he had a botanical garden, of which frequent mention is made in his " Herbal," and his house in Crutched Friars, London. He speaks also of his garden at Kew ; and from the repeated notices he takes of the plants in Purbeck, and about Portland, Dr. Pulteney infers that he must have had some intimate connec tions in Dorsetshire. He died July 7, 1568, a few months after the publication ofthe last part ofhis "Her bal," and was buried in the chancel of St. Olave's church, Hart-street, London, where a monument was erected to his memory by his widow. Dr. Turner was the author of many controversial treatises, chiefly written against Popery. Among these were, 1. "The Hunting of the Romish Fox," &c. Basil, 1543. 2. " Rescuing of the Romish Fox," 1545. 3. " The Hunting of the Romish Wolf," 8vo. : all these were published under the name of William Wraugh- ton. 4. "Dialogue, wherein is contained the Examination ofthe Mass," Lond. 8vo. 5. "A Preservative, or Triacle against the Poison of Pelagius, lately renewed and stirred up again, by the furious sect of the Ana baptists," ibid. 1551, 12mo. 6. "A new Book of spiritual Physic for divers Diseases," 1555. 7. "The Hunting of the Fox and Wolf, because they did make havock of the Sheep of Jesus Christ," 8vo. Tanner mentions a few other articles, and there are several of his tracts yet in manuscript, in various libraries. He collated the translation of the Bible with Hebrew, Greek, and Latin copies, and corrected it in many places. He procured to be printed at Antwerp a new and corrected edition of William of Newburgh's " Historia gentis nostras," from a MS. he found in the library at Wells ; but complains that the printer not only omitted certain articles sent by him, but left out the preface he sent him, and substituted one ofhis own. Our author also translated several works from the Latin, particularly " The Comparison of the Old Learning and the New," written by Urbanus Regius, Southwark, 1537, 8vo. and again 1538 and 1548. > His first work on the subject of plants was printed at Cologn, under the title of " Historia de naturis herb arum, scholiis et notis vallata," 3 544, 8vo. Bumaldus is the only writer who mentions this work, and it probably was not reprinted in England. It was followed by a small volume under the title of "Names of Herbes, in Greek, Latin, English, Dutch, and French," Lond. 1548. As his knowledge in natural history was not confined to botany, he published a treatise on birds, entitled " Avium praecipuarum, quarum apud Plinium et Aristotelem mentio est, brevis et succincta historia," Cologn, 1543, 8vo. By a letter of his pre fixed to Gesner's " Historia Animalium," edit. 1620, relating to the English fishes, it appears that he had no inconsiderable degree of knowledge in that part of zoology. But the work which secured his reputation to posterity, and entitles him to the character of an original writer on that subject, in England, is his " History of Plants," printed at different times, in three parts, in fol. with cuts, under the title of a " New Herbal " Lond. 1551, part first ; part second at Cologn, in 1562 ; with this was reprinted the first part, and his " Book on the Bathes of England and Germany." These were reprinted, with a third part, in 1 568. Dr. Pulteney has given a minute account of the contents and progress of this work, and observes, that when we regard the 184 MORPETH WARD— W. D head ; while, in the same year, these rates in Newcastle were very bttle more than 8*. 4>\d. a head. This circumstance, added to the late depression in agriculture, is perhaps sufficient to account for the comparative want of increase in the population. time in which Dr. Turner lived, and the little assistance he could derive from his contemporaries, he will appear to have exhibited uncommon diligence, and great erudition, and fully to deserve the character of an original writer. He also paid early attention to mineral waters, and to wines ; and wrote on both subjects. In his works, the rare plants, the birds, and the river and sea fishes, which he observed in his native county, are particularly described. From a passage in his " Spiritual Physic," he appears once to have been a member of the House of Com mons; and in 1550 there was a design of placing him at the head of Oriel College. Fox speaks of Turner with great respect, as " a man whose authority neither is to be neglected, nor credit to be disputed." He married Jane, daughter of George Ander, an alderman of Cambridge, who after his death married Cox, bishop of Ely. In memory of her first husband, she left some money and lands to Pembroke Hall. By this lady Dr. Turner had a son, Peter, who was a physician, and practised in London, and resided the latter part of his life in St. Helen's, Bishopsgate-street, London. He died in 1614, and was buried near his father in St. Olave's church, where there is a monument to his memory. He married Pascha, sister to Dr. Henry Parr, bishop of Worcester, by whom he had eight children, one of whom, called Peter, became, according to Wood, " versed in all kinds of literature," but particularly excelled in the knowledge of geometry and anti quities. In consequence of his adherence to the cause of Charles I. he was ejected from his fellowship and professorship in the university of Oxford. He died at Southwark, in January, 1651. — Fuller's Worthies. Ath. Ox. vol. i. Chalmers' Biog. Did. vol. xxx. Thomas Gibson, the townsman and contemporary of Dr. Turner, acquired great fame for his extraordinary attainments in physic, divinity, history, and botany. Bale bestows on him the greatest encomiums, declaring that he performed almost incredible cures. He pursued the study of theology and natural history with equal zeal and success. Being a warm friend to the Reformation, he was obliged to become a fugitive in the reign of queen Mary ; but on the accession of Elizabeth, he returned, and died in London in 1562. Among his works are, 1. "A breve Chronicle ofthe Bishops of Rome's Blessynge, &c." a work supposed to be the same called by others " The Treasons of the Prelates," in English rhyme, Lond. l6mo. printed by John Daye, consisting of only eight leaves. 2. " The Sum of the Acts and Decrees made by divers Bishops of Rome," from the Latin, 12mo. no date. 3. "A Treatise behoovefull as well to preserve the People from Pestilence, as to help and recover them, &c." 1536, 4to. The following remain in manuscript, "An Herbal ;" " Treatise against unskilful Chemists, &c." — Bale. — Aikin's Biog. Mem. qf Medicine. The Rev. John Horsley, a very learned antiquarian, may properly be noticed here. The place of his birth is uncertain, but an opinion prevails that he was born in the neighbourhood of this town. He no doubt belonged to a branch of the ancient Northumbrian family of the Horsleys. He received his early education at the grammar-school of Newcastle, after which he studied for some time in one of the Scotch universities where he took a degree, and then settled in Morpeth, as pastor to the congregation of Presbyterians. He distinguished himself by his profound knowledge of the antiquities of his country, of which he o-ave some specimens in letters addressed to Roger Gale, Esq. dated in 1720. His great work did not appear till 1732, a short time after his death. It is entitled, " Britannia Romana," and contains an account of all the vestiges of the connection of the Romans with this island. Tt commences with a historical relation of the Roman transactions in Britain ; a list of their legionary and auxiliary forces, with their several stations • and a de scription of the Roman walls, illustrated with maps. A second book contains a collection of all the Roman inscriptions and sculptures which have been discovered in Britain ; and a third is devoted to the geography of the island, as laid clown by Ptolemy, Antonine's Itinerary, the Notitia, &c. This work has obtained great applause from the learned, and remains an honourable memorial of the author. Mr. Horsley was likewise well versed in mathematical studies, and gave lectures in the several branches of natural philosophy, MORPETH PARISH. 185 At the spring assizes, held in the first year of his present majesty's reign, Morpeth gaol was presented by the grand jury as being ruinous, insecure, and insufficient in point of size for the proper classification of the prisoners. The royal assent was & with great and merited approbation, both at Newcastle and Morpeth. He died in December, 1731, at the age of 4-6. The Rev. Robert Trotter, of Windyhaugh, was minister of the dissenting congregation of Morpeth during tlie long space of 51 years. He was a gentleman distinguished through a long and useful life for his un affected piety, the meekness of his disposition, and his theological and classical learning. He was descended from one of the oldest families of the north ; it sprung from the house of Marr, and was ennobled by one of the Scottish kings before titles became hereditary in that country. For some centuries the Trotters held places of great public trust and emolument; they were among the first who disposed of their lands for the relief of distressed royalty, on the abdication of the Stuarts, whose standards they followed in the different rebellions. The ruin ofthe family was completed in 1745, which was the last struggle for the cause of those princes. Mr. Trotter died in April, 1807, aged 75, at which time three ofhis sons were wielding the sword in the service of their country. Dr. Robert Morrison, the celebrated Chinese linguist and missionary, and who is not less distinguished by grasp of capacity and variety of acquirements, than by the pre-eminent utility of his labours, is a native of Morpeth. His father came from Dunfermline, in Scotland ; and his mother was a Northumbrian. He was born in Bullersgreen, January 5, 1782 ; but his parents removed to Newcastle when he was about three years old. At a proper age he was placed under the care of his uncle, the late Mr. James Nicholson, a respectable mathematical teacher in that town, from whom he learned the common branches of education. He then became apprentice to his father, who was a last and boot-tree maker, in which business he displayed equal skill and industry. Every interval from labour was occupied in the acquisition of know ledge, or in attending to the duties of religion. During the latter part of his apprenticeship, and while he worked as a journeyman, he applied the savings from his wages to the purchase of books, and the procuring of assistance in his classical studies. These he pursued under the direction of the Rev. Adam Laidlaw, then minister of the Scots church in Silver-street, from whom he learned Latin and Greek. At the same time he acquired some knowledge of Hebrew, and learned to write short-hand with considerable facility. He next entered on a course of theological studies, but still found time to be an active visiter of the Society for the Relief of the Friendless Poor. In January, 1803, he was sent to the academy at Hoxton, where he was ad mitted a probationer on the 7th of that month, and fully admitted on the 21st. Here he continued under the tuition of the late Dr. Simpson, nearly twelve months, when the offer of his services to the London' Mis sionary Society being accepted, he removed to the aeademy at Gosport belonging to that institution. While under Dr. Bogue, in addition to his other studies, he learned the French language ; but his attention was chiefly directed to the acquisition of the Chinese language, assisted by Yung Saam Tak, a respectable native of China, then on a visit to this country. At the end of two years, he removed to London to study medicine a knowledge of which he conceived would contribute to the success of his intended mission. Here he at tended the public hospitals, and a regular course of lectures ; but Mr. T. Brown, son of the late Rev. John Brown, of Haddington, also volunteered to assist in the China mission (which he afterwards abandoned), and being desirous of taking the medical department, Mr. Morrison relinquished it, and immediately commenced the study of astronomy, with his accustomed ardour, at Greenwich, under the late Dr. Hutton. This also was a prudent step, the character of an astronomer being highly esteemed at the imperial court of China. During this period, he transcribed the Harmony of the Four Gospels, &c. into Chinese, and which is pre served in the British Museum. On the 31st January, 1807, Mr. Morrison embarked at Gravesend for New York, in the Remittance, Cap tain Law, and from thence for Canton, in the Trident, on the 12th of May following, where he arrived on the 4th of September in the same year. During the voyage, he diligently prosecuted the study of the Chi- vol. ii. 3 A 186 MORPETH WARD— W. D. therefore given to an act, on the 24th March, 1821, for building a common gaol, house of correction, and sessions house, for the county, with suitable, convenient, and proper offices and other accommodations : the expence to be paid by a county rate, nese language, and, on his arrival in China, was assisted therein by a Chinese Roman Catholic. His great object was to execute a translation of tbe Holy Scriptures for the vast empire of China, which, on the lowest calculation, contains a population ten times greater than that of the British Isles. In this important under taking he was much encouraged by the friendly attentions which he received from many European and American gentlemen at Canton. But in the year 1808-9, in consequence of certain political disputes, he re moved, with other Europeans, to the Portuguese settlement at Macao. Here he was introduced into the family of John Morton, Esq. of Liverpool, a surgeon in the Royal Artillery ; and on February 20, 1 808, was united in marriage to Miss Morton. Shortly after, his great proficiency in the language, in conjunction with his exemplary conduct, procured him the office of Chinese translator to the East India Company's establish ment at Canton. In 1811, the directors were highly gratified by receiving English translations of "Specimens of Chinese Literature," taken from the maxims of Confucius and history of Fuh, with copies of a beautiful edition of the Acts of the Apostles, printed at Canton. On a copy being presented to the British and Foreign Bible So ciety, the committee voted £500 for translating and printing the Scriptures in Chinese. During the follow ing year, a severe imperial edict was directed against the Roman Catholic missionaries in China ; but Mr. Morrison, undismayed, proceeded in his labours, though with his usual caution and prudence. Not being permitted to preach publicly, he confined his ministerial functions to the instruction and exhortation of his own domestics and a few other persons. About this time, he prepared for circulation, in China, 5000 copies of a Catechism, and 10,000 of a tract " On the Way of Salvation." He also transmitted a revised copy of his Chinese Grammar to his excellency Lord Minto, the governor-general of Bengal, a new edition of which was subsequently printed at the Serampore press, at the expence of the government. In 1812-13, a single printed copy of his Chinese translation of the Gospel by Luke having been received by the directors, they presented it to the B. and F. Bible Society, who had previously voted a second donation of £500. In July, 1813, Mr. M. was joined at Macao by the Rev. William Milne, who studied the difficult language of China under his direction. In the following year, a mission was established in Java, in consequence of Air. Morri son's suggestion to the directors. Having finally completed his Chinese Translation of the New Testament, 2000 copies were printed, many of which were conveyed into distant parts of the empire. Mr. Morrison's Dictionary of the ancient, beautiful, and impressive language of China, was printed at Ma cao, at the expence of the court of directors of the East India Company, by whom 500 copies were given to the author, to be disposed of according to his own pleasure. This laborious and useful work, which reflects credit upon the age and our country, is derived, in its arrangements, definitions, and examples, from the Dictionary formed by order of his imperial majesty Kang-he, containing 40,000 characters, from the author's own intimate knowledge of the characters, the manuscript Dictionaries of the Romish church, the information of native scholars, and miscellaneous works perused on purpose. During the year 1814, the B. and F. Bible Society voted a donation of £1000 in aid ofthe Chinese Scrip tures, which was followed by another of the same amount. In this year, Mr. Milne performed a voyage among the islands ofthe Malay Archipelago, distributing the Chinese New Testament; and, in 18 J 5 he at the recommendation of Mr. Morrison, commenced a mission at Malacca, where, in the following year, the printing of two editions of the Chinese New Testament, one of 1500 copies in Svo. and 8000 ditto in 12mo. was commenced and ultimately finished, when they were distributed amongst the Chinese men settled here and tbose who visited this and the neighbouring places on objects of commercial enterprize. In 1 8 1 6, the sum of £400 was received from America towards the Chinese translation of the Scriptures ; but Mr. Morrison's im portant labours were now suspended during six months, he being, in tbe month of July in the same year, at tached as interpreter to the British embassy to Pekin, under his excellency Lord Amherst. The combination of MORPETH PARISH. 187 not exceeding tAvo-pence in the pound of the annual value of property, the whole of Avhich rate is to be borne by the landlord or owner. The scite chosen for this public bubding is a level plot of ground, on the south spirit, prudence, and ability, which he displayed in the discharge of the duties of this delicate office, is well known to those who have read Messrs. Ellis and Macleod's accounts of this expedition. Mr. M. himself also drew up a circumstantial and interesting narrative of the embassy, and which has since been printed in England. In 1817, two additional votes of £1000 each were made by the B. and F. Bible Society, towards printing and circulating the Scriptures in Chinese. During this year, Mr. Milne made a voyage to Canton for the benefit of his health, when Mr. Morrison made arrangements with him, in order to expedite the translation into Chinese of certain portions of the Old Testament that remained unfinished. This industrious and zealous missionary, who has since died, cheerfully executed the task assigned him ; and the whole of the Scriptures have now been printed in the language of the most extensive empire on earth. On the 24th of December, 1817, the title of Doctor of Divinity was unanimously and gratuitously granted to Mr. Morrison, by the Senalus Academicus of the university of Glasgow, as a token of their approbation of his philological labours. In 1818, a college was established at Malacca, for the education of English and Chinese youths, partly in consequence ofthe activity and zeal of Dr. Morrison, who subscribed £500 towards the building, and an equal sum to assist in purchasing a library. In addition to the books already mentioned, written and pub lished in China by this able scholar, it may be proper to mention, 1. "A Collection of Dialogues," &c. in Chinese and English. 2. " A View of China, for Philological Purposes," in English. 3. " The Morning and Evening Prayers of the Church of England," in Chinese. 4. " The Psalter," &c. in Chinese. 5. " Retrospect of the first Ten Years of the Chinese Mission." 6. "A Volume of Sermons, preached at Macao." 7- "A geographical Description of the World," in Chinese, with maps, drawn by himself. This work is extremely popular in China. He also became assistant editor of a Quarterly Magazine, called "The Indo-Chinese Gleaner," printed at the Missionary Press in Malacca. This valuable work contains much curious matter illustrative of of the character of the human mind in regions but little known to Englishmen. Yet amidst the great labours requisite to the execution of these various and useful works, Dr. Morrison has found leisure to acquire a to lerable knowledge of the Spanish and Portuguese languages. Dr. Morrison experienced much painful anxiety, in consequence of the long-protracted illness of Mrs. M. whose life in 1811 was despaired of. In 181S, she was compelled to leave China for England, for the benefit ofher health; but in April, 1820, conceiving herself to be much better, she embarked for China, where she arrived safe, but did not long survive, being seized with the cholera morbus a few hours before her ac couchement, which suddenly terminated her sublunary existence. After this, Dr. M. sent his two children, a boy and a girl, to England, to receive their education. In December, 1821, a serious fracas happened between some seamen belonging to his majesty's frigate Topaz, Captain Blackwood, and a party of Chinese, when the ship opening a fire to cover the retreat ofthe seamen, two natives were killed. The Chinese authorities demanded, conformably to their laws, that two of the crew should be delivered over to their courts of justice, to suffer as an atonement for the killed; which being refused, all intercourse with the English was interdicted, and the gentlemen of the factory removed to Macao. In a few weeks, the Chinese abandoned the principle that the representatives of the East India Company were responsible for acts committed by British ships of war ; and trade was renewed on its former basis. Such a happy termination of this alarming difference was ascribed to the abilities of Dr. Morrison, together with his profound knowledge ofthe language, laws, and usages of China. Amongst the numerous works of public utility achieved or projected by this indefatigable missionary, the formation of a fund called " The Fund of Widows and Orphans of the Ultra-Ganges Mission," deserves mention. He has also endea voured to procure a general union of missionary labours, and the establishment of a floating hospital and chapel for the numerous seamen of England and America that annually visit Canton. Having presented a 188 MORPETH WARD— W. D. side of the Wansbeck, and adjoining the east side of the great post-road at its en trance into Morpeth. Amongst a variety of plans presented to the magistracy, the one designed by Mr. John Dobson, of Newcastle, architect, was adopted. Messrs. Hall, Kyle, and King, contracted to erect the gaol and house of correction. The form and disposition of this great public Avork may be accurately understood by the annexed ground-plan. The arrangement provides for a complete classification of the prisoners. All the windows and doors face inwards, which, together with the distri bution of the several buildings, wbl effectuaby prevent the inmates from holding communication by signal, or otherwise, with persons from the adjoining heights. The south side, marked A, is to be appropriated for a house of correction ; and the north side, B, for the felons' prison. The east parts, C C, are to be prisons for the debtors. The day or work-rooms in the correction-house are upon the ground-floor. They are dry, lofty, and airy ; the principal room is 52 feet long, and 16 feet broad ;^ and they are all supported by groined arches, the execution of which displays an inimitable specimen of the masonic art. Though the arches are of different sizes, yet their beauty and regularity are correctly preserved. This difficult work w^s executed by one of the contractors, Mr. Gibson Kyle, surveyor of county bridges. copy of his works connected with the literature of China to the Literary and Philosophical Society of New castle upon Tyne, he was, in 1823, elected an honorary member of that respectable institution. Dr. Morri son is singularly calculated for the task he undertook. In person he is rather below the middle size, but remarkably strong and muscular. His habits are simple and methodical, and his industry prodigious. In temper he is calm and composed, but firm, resolute, and courageous, and is neither to be allured nor intimi dated from his purpose. Having always a view to some great end, he uniformly despises the angry and unprofitable squabbles of the dogmatic controversialist. The writer speaks from a" long acquaintance with this worthy and extraordinary character, to whose early acquirements he had the honour to contribute. — Missionary Sketches, No. ix. — Reports of B. and F. Bible Society. — Pref. to Chinese Diet. — Indo-Chinese Gleaner. — Newcastle Mag. for 1818. — Private Information, tyc. fyc. Luke Clennell, an artist of considerable celebrity, though born at Ulgham, was very early in life taken under the protection of his uncle, Mr. Thomas Clennell, of Morpeth. Evincing an extraordinary aptitude in drawing, he was placed under the care of Mr. Thomas Bewick, of Newcastle. Whilst serving his appren ticeship, he emulated the industry of his eminent master, by making frequent excursions into the country, in order to draw whatever appeared most interesting in manners and picturesque in nature. Specimens of his talents as an engraver in wood will be found in many elegant publications. The beautiful illustrations of Rogers' Pleasures of Memory, from the designs of Stothard, and the Diploma of the Highland Society, from a drawing by the venerable president of the Royal Academy, (the largest wood engraving of the age,) are both the productions of his hand. But his genius did not stop here. He had not been long in London be fore he was known to the public as a painter, and one too of no ordinary character. Possessing an active and ardent mind, he saw and estimated the advantages held out by the British Institution ; he became one of its most assiduous students, and soon distinguished himself in its annual exhibitions. His rapid progress was marked by the admirers of genius; and the patrons of the Institution, anxious to encourage such rising ex cellence, munificently rewarded his exertions. But his ardour was too impetuous, and his industry too un remitted, to be long sustained; his mental powers sunk under the. pressure of such prodigious efforts; and his fine pencil was necessarily laid aside. He is now happily in a state of convalescence, and will, it is hoped, resume his career of success. When the calamity alluded to occurred, he was completing a picture for the Earl of Bridgewater, representing the fete given by the city of London to the assembled sovereigns, and which, even in its unfinished and imperfect state, commanded the admiration of all who saw it. Mr. Clennell married a daughter of Mr. Warren, the celebrated engraver, by whom he has had several children. © 'Z 6 Q L-* MORPETH PARISH. 189 According to the original plan, the grand, and indeed the only entrance, opens upon the west side ; the outer gate being placed between two towers, D E. The toAver D is to contain apartments for the porter, &c. ; and the other tower, E, a cu rious circular staircase, by which the magistrates may enter the session-house. The public is to be admitted by tAvo different entrances, marked F F. The session-house, Avhich is on the second floor, wib be 90 feet in diameter, with semicircular raised stands, which will greatly assist the vision and hearing of the audience during public trials, meetings of the county, &c. The frontispiece of the bench Avill be separated from the great body of the hab, and the prisoners wib be brought to the bar by a private staircase. The apartments below the session-house are to be employed as a sick- ward, for store-rooms, and for persons awaiting trial. The entrance will be se cured by three gates. At night, the key of the outer gate (1) will be kept by the governer ; the middle gate (2) secures the porter ; and the inner gate (3), composed of open ornamented iron work, wib at all times enable the porter to see the persons that want to pass. The opposite, or east side of the building,* is to be appropriated for a chapel and garden grounds, wherein the debtors may find recreation and amusement. The governor's house and offices are to be erected in the centre. From his office, G, every "person Avho enters or retires by the gates can be seen ; and from the apart ments, H H, either he or his assistants wib command a view of the whole interior of the prison. The governor's residence is to be surrounded by a strong iron palisading, from which walls, III, wbl radiate, inclosing the separate yards wherein the differ ent classes will be permitted to take air and exercise. Ab the different suites of rooms in the prisons are web provided with water-closets, and other necessary ac commodations. The whole building rests upon a firm foundation of blue clay, from 15 to 20 feet below the surface.f A rivulet called the Church Burn, in its course to the Wansbeck, is diverted through the sewers, and there is a sluice gate to prevent the river from rising too far during floods, by which contrivances the sewers wib be kept clean and wholesome, and never overflowed. Behind the different wards there * It is in contemplation to carry the great post-road from Catchburn along the vale, to pass close by the east end ofthe new gaol, and to cross the Wansbeck by a commodious stone bridge about 100 yards below the old one, at the north end of which the road will proceed in a direct line to Morpeth : the bridge to con sist of but one arch, the span of which will be 100 feet. This line has been surveyed by Mr. Telford, and appUcation will be made to parliament forthwith for power to carry it into execution. Should this scheme be finally adopted, the dangerous steeps near Morpeth, and the old awkward bridge, will be avoided ; the value of property in the town will not be affected ; and the only inconvenience resulting from it will be the necessity of establishing a toll at the new bridge. The present bridge was erected by the Carlisle family, for the convenience of those burgesses that had cattle upon the common. If a bill be obtained for the above purpose, the entrance into the gaol and the session-house will be at the east side instead of the west ; but in other respects the plan will remain unaltered. t In digging the foundation, a remarkably large oak tree was found nearly twelve feet below the surface, and some nuts in a state of great preservation. Some stags' horns were also found, which have been sent to the museum at Oxford. In forming the sewers, several human skeletons were discovered, which circumstance may perhaps be accounted for by the tradition, that the burial-place of persons who died of the plague in Morpeth was at a place adjoining the Gose Hill. VOL. II. 3 B 190 MORPETH WARD— W. D is to be a covered passage, by which the prisoners wbl be conducted in classes to the chapel. The whole building is to be enclosed by a wab 25 feet high, leaving an in termediate space of 40 feet in breadth, which is to be used for the growth of vegeta bles. The length, from the extremities of the covered passages at the north and south ends, wib be 380 feet ; and the breadth, from the chief entrance gate to the opposite wall, 320 feet. When finished, this will certainly be one of the most secure, healthy, and convenient gaols in the kingdom. The contractors have engaged to finish it within three years, previous to the expiration of which a new contract wib be made for building the governor's residence and the session-house. The lime used in this building is brought from the kbns at Whitley, and the stone from Morpeth quarry, on the north bank of the Wansbeck, about a mile below the town. It is a fine freestone, rather soft, but hardens by exposure to the air. As it Avas found to be extremely inconvenient and dangerous to pass the river with so many loaded carts, Mr. Dobson, the architect, designed a temporary wooden bridge, now cabed the Quarry Bridge, and which was built in a most masterly manner by Mr. Robert Bryson, of Newcastle, carpenter. This bridge, which is calculated to support a weight of nearly 100 tons, is not less remarkable for strength, than for boldness, lightness, and the smab quantity of timber used in its construction. The span of the arch is nearly 80 feet ; and the road- way consists of a solid mass, similar to a turnpike. This erection may be long useful to the town and neighbourhood. Morpeth is not distinguished in history by many important occurrences. Under the Saxons and Danes it made no figure ; but after the Norman conquest it rose in dignity superior to a village, being then erected into an honour, and styled the barony of Morpeth. Whether it was possessed by the Merley family at this time does not appear ; for by the rolls of king Henry V. the barony of Merley is mentioned, which sheAvs that Merley and Morpeth were places originally distinct from each other, and probably gave name to different families, though at length the possessions became united, and the distinctions subsided in the general appellation of Morpeth. During the reign of Henry VIII. while some of Lord Dacres' tenants were escorting a party of Redesdale thieves to Morpeth, they were attacked by a band of Borderers, who killed three of the escort, and carried off the gaoler and bailiff of Morpeth into Scot land. The XVIth article of accusation, which was afterwards presented against his lordship, runs thus :* — " Itm wher oon Cokes Charleton indicted of many and diuers felonies the moost notable theffe in thos pties was at the cessions of peax brought to the bar of Morpeth diuers psones redy there to haue persued against hym as Justice required, the saide lorde Dacre wulde not suffre hym to be areigned nor Justified for his offences but repried hym to his Casteb of Morpeth whish thef afterwarde escaped and sith hath don abhominable theft, and other offences within the said countrey." To this accusation Lord Dacre answered : — " The said lord saith that Cokes Charle- * "9th July, 26 Henry VIII. William Lord Dacres was arraigned of high treason before the Duke of Norfolk, high steward, who being brought to the bar at Westminster-hall, with the axe bome before him, when the indictment was read, he so disproved the same and answered every part thereof, and confuted Sir Ralph Fenwick and Musgrave, his accusers, who had brought their false Scots for witnesses, ready to avouch all their false accusations ; that he was by his peers, that day, found not guilty, to the great joy of the people, who shouted when they heard ' Not guilty' pronounced." MORPETH PARISH. 191 ton was Brought to the barr to be Justified for his offences And when he was ther no man wuld followe hym though the contrary be here surmitted And so the said lord Repried hym to warde again, And, aftre a part of Tyndall com and Brak the Castell of Morpeth, on the night and the prison where the said thef and other febons were, and ther took hym out and other moo febons whereof a part were taken again and put to execution." Camden records this remarkable circumstance of Morpeth: that in the year 1215, it was set on fire by the inhabitants themselves, to prejudice king John, who would have rested here in his infamous expedition. In the year 1689, a great part of Mor- {»eth was burnt down by accident, and much damage was done, as appears by the fol- OAving report, extracted from the county records* : — " Ralph Douglas, of Morpeth, in the county of Northumberland, Mason, William Sadler, of the same, Mason, Thomas Thompson, of the same, Carpenter, Robert Donkin, Robert Mittford, and George Fenwicke, Gents, inhabitants in the same towne of Morpeth, do severally make oath, that upon Munday the twenty- ninth day of July last past, aboute two of the clock in the afternoone of the same day, a sudden and terrible fire did breake forth at the said towne of Morpeth, which by reason of the feircenesse thereof within the space of three houres burnt down and consumed the dwelling-houses, kilnes, barnes, stables, and outhouses of about fifty of the said inhabitants. And that we have seene and viewed the said dwelling-houses, kilnes, barnes, stables, and out-houses burnt by the said late fire : And severally make oath, that we judge and be lieve that the sume of three thousand five hundred and thirty pounds will not rebuild the same, and put the said dwelling-houses, kilnes, barnes, stables, and outhouses in good and sufficient repaire, and satisfie the losse of the sevrall inhabitants. " Signed by the above. "Sworn in Court, 1st William & Mary." Morpeth is a prescriptive borough, and is governed by two babiffs and seven bur gesses. The bailiffs, Avho are returning officers, are chosen out of four persons pre sented by the free burgesses to the lord of the manor's steward, who holds a court here twice a year : the others are elected out of the free burgesses, being inhabitants, and paying scot and lot. In the first year of the reign of queen Mary, 1553, it began * Literal copy of an original letter from Sir Richard Neile, knight, high sheriff of Northumberland in the years 1687 and 1688, to Mr. John Pye, of Morpeth, about the fire there: — " Mr. Pye, — I am very sorrey to heare of the sadd accident at your towne yesterday, and for the great losse the poor people have receiv'd. I shal be glad to heare that there be noe hurt to ye persons, that the goale be safe and the records. I designed to have waited on Coll. Stafford this day, but now I judge visitts unseasonable, 'tell the hurry be over, but if he expect me send the messenger back and I will come. I pray you if you can order the matter soe you come with him hither to dinner on Thursday, and as I wrote before desire him to chuse his owne company; I pray you speake to Mr. Foster about the 100Z. you know what my occasions are to have it paid. I send your wife's cloths by the bearer, if you have any newes I pray you lett me heare it, and how this sadd accident happened our taken from if Londonderry be not 3 shipps and would remove out of that kingdom, and that it was guessed he intended for Scotland. I hope you may come back from Alnwicke to-morrow at night to come with Coll. Stafford, send me word what he saith. " Yor. lo. frd. " P. L. ye 30th July, 89- " RIC. NEILE. " For Mr. John Pye at Morpeth these." 192 MORPETH WARD— W. D. to send members to parbament, a list of whom will be given in another place. The number of burgesses is generaby about 200 ; the old bye-laws of the different free com panies preventing the unlimited increase of voters. Even those who serve a regular apprenticeship are only termed brothers, and cannot be admitted until a vacancy oc curs, and by a particular formula.* But the ancient history of this borough is inse parably connected with that of the lords of the manor. * The following important case explains the curious constitution of this borough : — " Case. The borough of Morpeth, in the county of Northumberland, is a borough and corporation by prescription, consisting of two bailiffs and other inferior officers, and an indifferent number of burgesses, or freemen, incorporated by the name ofthe bailiffs and burgesses. There are also within the said borough seven companies, or fraternities, commonly called trades, forming so many lesser corporations within the general body, and governed inde pendently of each other. Each of these seven companies consists of one alderman, two proctors, and an in different number of brothers. N. B. The burgesses are commonly called Free Burgesses, and Freemen ; but the brothers never are. " The brothers are also frequently called Free Brothers. Persons become entitled to be brothers by birth or servitude ; as being the son of a freemen, or having served an apprenticeship to a freemen or a brother; and are thereupon admitted of that company or trade of which their father is or was a tradesmen, or of which their master is or was a brother. N. B. The burgesses, or freemen, do not cease to be brothers of their re spective companies, but only become entitled to further privileges. " The rights and privileges of the brothers are, 1st, To follow trades in the corporation. 2d, To vote on the choice of aldermen and proctors, and in all other business transacted by the companies of which they are severally members. 3d, To have the same number of stints upon the commons belonging to the corporation with a burgess or freemen (though this has only been the case for about these twelve years last past, when the freemen, who before that time had three stints, reduced their number to two stints, being the same num ber which the brothers then and now enjoy). And, 4th, To serve (when chosen) the office of proctors of the company to which they belong. " The burgesses or freemen ofthe said borough are elected, returned, sworn, and admitted, in the follow ing manner : — Each of the seven companies or fraternities meets distinct from the others, and the brothers thereof elect a certain number from among themselves, as proper to be burgesses or freemen of the said bo rough, viz. The company of Merchants and Tailors elect 4 ; Tanners, 6 ; Fullers and Dyers, 3 ; Smiths, Saddlers, and Armourers, 3 ; Cordwainers, 3 ; Weavers, 3 ; Skinners, Glovers, and Butchers, annexed, 2 ; in all, 24. These are returned by the aldermen of the respective companies to the lord of the manor or his steward, at one of the two court leets held annually upon two prescriptive days in every year, viz. the first Monday after Michaelmas Day, and the first Monday after the close of Easter, to be sworn and admitted accordingly. N. B. There are no stated or fixed times for the companies to elecj burgesses or freemen • but each company elects its proper number, and a return is made to the lord, or his steward, when the aldermen of the several companies agree together for that purpose. " The privileges of the burgesses or freemen (besides those before mentioned which they enjoy as brothers of their respective companies) are, 1st, To make bye-laws for the government of the corporation. 2d, To vote in the elections of master and usher of the free grammar-school at Morpeth. And, 3d, To vote in the election of members to serve in parliament. " The burgesses or freemen of the said borough are also all suitors to the courts leet and courts baron, held (the former twice and the latter thrice a year) in and for the said borough ; and they are the only persons who compose the juries at the said courts, and who serve the several offices of bailiffs, aldermen, Serjeants, fish and flesh-lookers, ale-tasters, and constables of the said borough ; are chosen annually at the' court leet, held within a month after Michaelmas, which the court leet jury and court baron jury elect, and return to the lord, or his steward, each of them two of themselves for bailiffs, each of them one of themselves for ser« MORPETH PARISH. 193 Morpeth was the ancient barony of the Merleys ; but when it Avas so created, or Avhether the Merleys were in possession before the conquest, there is no satisfactory evidence. By the Testa de Nevih it appears, that the third Roger de Merley held jeant, each of them one of themselves for fish and flesh-lookers, each of them one of themselves for ale-tasters, and each of them two of themselves for constables. Upon this return being made to the lord, or his steward, he nominates two out of the four returned for bailiffs, and one out of the returned for serjeant, and sworn ; those whom he so nominates for bailiffs and serjeant, and the several other officers returned, viz. the two fish and flesh-lookers, the two ale-tasters, and the four constables, into their respective offices. " The alderman of each company is chosen annually by the free brothers thereof, and must be one ofthe free brothers of that particular company or fraternity, who is a burgess or freeman of the borough at large. The proctors of each company may be chosen from among the free brothers themselves. " The bailiffs for the time being are the chief officers of the corporation, their names must be made use of in every corporate act, they call meetings of the corporation (that is, of the burgesses or freemen) when and as often as they think proper, preside at such meetings, and open the business upon which they are met. They, together with the several aldermen, let the lands belonging to the corporation. They also collect and receive all the revenues of the corporation, and account for the same at the expiration of their office to the aldermen ; and the balance (if any) in their hands is paid into the town-hutch or box. They are also gover nors of the free grammar-school, and let the lands belonging thereto, receive the rents and revenues thereof, and account to the master and usher for the same. They are also the returning officers at the election of members to serve in parliament. " The serjeant of the corporation may be looked upon as a servant or assistant to the bailiffs. He has the custody of the mace belonging to the corporation. He, by the direction of the bailiffs, summons the mem bers of the corporation to call corporate meetings, and puts the seal of the corporation to every corporate act where the seal is required to be put. He is also an officer of the courts held for the said borough : he is the cryer, and makes all the summonses, and executes all the processes of the courts. " The fish and flesh-lookers, ale-tasters, and constables, are also officers of the corporation ; the first for the purpose of looking into and inspecting the quality of fish and flesh brought into the market ; the second for inspecting the quality of ale and beer brewed for sale ; and the third for keeping the peace. These officers attend the bailiffs upon all public days, with the several badges of their office. " The aldermen are to their respective companies, what the bailiffs are to the corporation at large. They are the chief officers, and call and preside at all meetings of their respective companies. They fix the time for going to the elections of brothers of their respective companies for burgesses or freemen, take the poll of such elections, and make their respective returns to the lord, or bis steward, as aforesaid, of the persons so elected when they all agree together for that purpose. Each of the aldermen keeps a key of the town's or corpora tion's hutch or box, on which there are seven different locks, and in which box is contained all the cash books, papers, and records, belonging to the borough, so that without the consent of the seven aldermen, this box can never be opened ; nor can they open it without the consent of the bailiffs, as it stands in the town's hall, of which the bailiffs keep the key. Each alderman has the custody of the box belonging to his com pany ; but the proctors of each company keep the key of such box. " The proctors may be deemed servants of their respective aldermen, as they do nothing but under their direction ; they summon, by the order of the aldermen, the company to meet, and attend such meeting with the key or keys of the box, to open if necessary. " There are no stated or fixed times for the companies to elect burgesses or freemen of the borough ; but each company elects its proper number, and a return is made to the lord or his steward, when the several companies agree together for that purpose ; for there never was an instance (till of late) of a greater or less number than 24 persons, in the proportions already mentioned, being returned, at the same time • and it is apprehended that the lord is the judge of the occasion or necessity of requiring such a return, or at least at vol. ii. 3 C 194 MORPETH WARD— W. D. the barony of Morpeth by the services of four knights' fees. It was very extensive, and consisted not only of the castle and lordship of the town, but had many vibages as members of it, as Greenwest, Ulgham, Hebscot, Shelvington, Twizle, Saltwick, the time of swearing and admitting such 24 persons burgesses or freemen, for it has frequently happened that such elections have been several years before any return made, or at least before they were admitted burgesses or freemen ; and in case any of those elected have happened to die before they have been returned and ad mitted, that the company of which the deceased was a brother has elected another, to make its quota or pro portion complete. "It appears that, from the year 1736 up to the year 1764, the stewards ofthe court leet, on the part of the lord, exercised a discretionary power in the admission or rejection of persons regularly elected and returned for freemen in manner hereinbefore stated ; and, during that period, the several stewards had rejected some persons who had been so elected and returned as aforesaid, and sworn and admitted others of them burgesses or freemen; under which they acquiesced till about the year 1766, when 33 persons, who had been regularly elected and returned to the steward, and by him rejected, brought writs of mandamus, claiming to be admit ted freemen; to which the steward returned, that the burgesses or freemen compose the juries of the courts leet and courts baron, and that, by the custom of the borough, every person admitted a burgess or freeman ought, previous to his being sworn and admitted, to be approved of by the lord of the manor and borough. And issue being taken on this custom, one of the causes (the other being, by agreement, to abide the event of that) was tried by a special jury, in Middlesex, after Trinity Term, 1767 ; and, after trial of great length and variety of evidence on both sides, the jury found a verdict against the custom, and, in consequence thereof, peremptory writs of mandamus issued, and they were sworn and admitted burgesses or freemen. " Previous to the Easter court, 1770, the several companies proceeded to answer election of burgesses or freemen, and the several aldermen made their returns of the 24 so elected in the proportions already men- tioned, and were accordingly sworn and admitted; and from that time up till Michaelmas, 1771, inclusive, the several companies have elected in the proportions aforesaid, and the aldermen have returned to each court leet 24 persons, who have all been sworn and admitted burgesses. " After Michaelmas court, 1771, the Tanners' company, which elects one-fourth part of the 24 returned, fell short of brothers, so that there was an end (at least for the present) of the several companies electing and returning 24 persons in the proportions already mentioned. However, the other companies have since that time gone on in electing their respective quotas, and the several aldermen have at each court made a return of the 18 so elected, and they have at each court been sworn and admitted burgesses; they, in the first place, having demanded to be sworn and admitted, and declared in open court that they would take upon them selves the risk of the legality of such their admissions. "At the time ofthe trial of the mandamus cause, 1767, there were not above 60 burgesses or freemen in the corporation. There has been a less, and at other times a greater number : but there had never been more than 100 at the same time ; and there was always double, and sometimes treble the brothers than of burgesses in each company. "After the Michaelmas court, 1771, when the Tanners' company fell short of brothers, there was about 230 burgesses; and there have been admitted since that time, when 18 only were returned at each court about 70, so that there are now about 300 burgesses of the said borough. If the companies go on to elect and return as they have done since Michaelmas, 1771, and the stewards should admit such persons burgesses, there will others of the companies run short of brothers, and in the end there will hardly be a brother left in any of the companies, not even to serve the office of proctors, and indeed elections will be of no signification. N. B. These facts seem not only to evince that there has been, but also the necessity of, a check to the mak ing of burgesses or freemen ; and such a check would be vested no where so properly as in the lord of the manor ; for though he might not have it in his power to reject some, or swear and admit others of the 24 re turned to him, yet he is certainly the judge ofthe time or occasion of making burgesses or freemen. MORPETH PARISH. 195 two Duddoes, Clifton, Cladwell, Stannington, Shotton, Blagdon, North and South Wideslad, Kibingworth, Great Benton, and Walker. King Henry I. gave Julian, daughter of Cospatrick, Earl of Dunbar, in marriage " It will be observed, that, according to the proportions returned for burgesses as aforesaid, the burgesses of the Merchants' company have already been one-sixth part ; of the Tanners' company, one-fourth part ; of the Fullers' and Dyers', one-seventh part ; of the Smiths', Saddlers', and Armourers', one-seventh part ; of the Cordwainers', one-seventh part ; of the Weavers', one-seventh part ; and of the Skinners', Glovers', and Butchers', one-twelfth part of the burgesses of the said borough ; so that in case any of the said companies had elected and returned a greater number than its proportion, it is apprehended such return and the admis sion thereupon would have been illegal, as it would have been introducing a custom which would greatly lessen that influence which the other companies has immemorially had in all corporate acts. And, for the same reason, if, when one or more of the companies run short of brothers (as has already been the case of the Tanners, and will be of other companies in a short time), and the other companies go on to elect and return their respective quotas, who are sworn and admitted burgesses, it will totally destroy that proportion of burgesses which has always been kept up in each of the companies ; and instead of there being one-fourth of the burgesses belonging to the Tanners' company, there will not in time be one-twelfth of them belonging to that company ; and instead of their being one-twelfth of the burgesses belonging to the Skinners' and But chers' company, and one-seventh of the Cordwainers' company, there will in time one-half of the burgesses belong to those two companies ; those two last-mentioned companies greatly exceeding all the others in their number of burgesses. " As those several companies have had their different proportions of freemen or burgesses, and of course some greater influence than others in all corporate acts, it was thought proper to enquire, if those companies which have the greatest proportion of burgesses bear any greater burthens in the corporation than the others ; and, upon such enquiry, it appears that there is a silver cup, which has been run for annually and immemo rially upon one ofthe commons belonging to the corporation, of the value of £ 1, 6s. 8d. which is bought by the bailiffs, and paid for by the several companies in the proportions above mentioned, viz. the Merchants' company pay one-sixth part ; the Tanners' company, one-fourth part ; the Fullers' and Dyers' — the Smiths', Saddlers', and Armourers' — the Cordwainers' — and the Weavers' companies, each one-seventh part ; and the Skinners', Glovers', and Butchers' company, one-twelfth part. This plate is called the Freeman's and Cor poration Plate. The herd of the commons is also paid his wages out of the companies' boxes in the same proportions ; which seems to shew, that the electing and making freemen out of the several companies, in the proportion above mentioned, has been well understood, by each company's paying in proportion thereto : and it is apprehended, that if there had been any other burthens upon the companies, towards the expence of the corporation at large, it would have been paid in the same proportion. "At a meeting ofthe company of Tanners, held on the 15th day of April last (1773), they came to a reso lution to protest against the swearing and admitting of burgesses when no persons were elected by their com pany, nor any return made by the aldermen of persons to be sworn and admitted burgesses, as being contrary to the immemorial usage and custom of making freemen in the said borough, and in subversion ofthe rights and privileges of the said company of Tanners. And, accordingly, at the Easter court, 1773, one of the members ofthe said company protested against the swearing and admitting of the 18 persons then returned for freemen ; and, at his request, the resolutions of the said company were read in court. [See a copy of these resolutions sent herewith.] But as these 1 8 people were willing to take upon themselves the risk of the legality of such their admission, the steward thought proper, rather than subject himself to prosecution by mandamus, to swear and admit them. " The only record of the admission of burgesses is a short memorandum thereof, wrote on stampt paper, and kept by the clerk of the court leet, and their names entered in the court book, and called upon at such court as suitors ; but care has been taken, since the Tanners' company have made no return, to make a me. 196 MORPETH WARD— W. D, to Ralph, son of Roger de Merley, with the lordships and villas of Witton, Horsley, Stanton, Ritton, Windgates, and Liverchild, which was confirmed by the brother Edgar. This Ralph founded Newminster, and, as appears by the Autographo, was interred therein, with his lady and Osbert their son. William de Merley was a be nefactor to the church* The hospital which he founded at Morpeth was dissolved, it is supposed, before the general suppression, as it is not mentioned in the Monasti- con, nor in Speed's Catalogue from Leland. Roger de Merley obtained of king John, 1199, a market for his borough, and an annual fair on Magdalen-day, in consideration of a fine of 20 marks and two palfreys. He was also interred at Newminster. His successor, Roger, ornamented the borough of Morpeth, and founded an hospital at Catchburn. He Avas also interred at Newminster, morandum thereof in the court book, and that the persons then returned before their admission demanded to be sworn and admitted, and were willing to run the risk of the legality of such their admissions, and to take upon themselves all hazards. [See a copy of the entries made in the court book upon those occasions, sent herewith.] Note, None of the persons, who have been sworn and admitted burgesses since the Tanners* company fell short of brothers, have served upon any juries, or in any offices within and for the said borough. " Query, Whether the persons so returned, sworn, and admitted burgesses when there was no election in the said company of Tanners, nor any return made by the aldermen of the said company of persons to be sworn and admitted burgesses, are legal burgesses or freemen of the said borough ? " It seems to me, that the mode of electing and presenting free brothers to be admitted freemen is an es sential part ofthe constitution of the borough, calculated to preserve a due proportion of freemen belonging to each company. This constitutional regulation was, both in the trial and in the motion for the new trial of the cause alluded to, the strongest circumstance against the claim of the lord of the manor to a previous ap probation of every person to be a freeman of the borough : for if, as it was contended and proved, that una nimous presentment of the aldermen of persons to be freemen, in the proportions stated, was a part of the constitution of the place, the right claimed by the lord defeated the object of the usage, namely, a due pro portion of freemen to belong each company, as the lord might vary the numbers according to his pleasure. I am therefore of opinion, that the freemen who have been presented and admitted without the concurrence of the aldermen of the Tanners' company, and the presentment of a proportional part from that company, are not legal freemen. If any of the companies should become dissolved, or incapable of acting, it might be a question whether the other companies might not present ; but in the present case, nothing appears necessary but to wait till a proper supply from the Tanners' company can be had, and which in course will happen. " Ll. KENYON. JOHN LEE. JA. WALLACE. " Lincoln's Inn, 25th January, 1 774." * Charter. — I William de Merley, my wife and sons consenting, give unto God, St. Cuthbert, and the monks at Durham, Morewic, with divers appurtenances to the said village, also one fishing in the river Tyne, for the soul of me, and my wife Menialda, and my son's soul, Ranulph de Merley, Geoffrey de Merley, and all my other sons ; signed by said William de Merley, and his son, Ranulph, Geoffrey, Moreth, Robert, An- serem, also Geoffrey de Clifton, to hold to said monks quietly in free alms for ever : after said William's death, his son, on the 29th of Sept. being the feast of St. Cuthbert, gave, granted, and confirmed the said land to the Sepulchre of St. Cuthbert, said lands of Morwick and appurtenances, in presence of Prior of Tinmouth, Renegias— Robert, the Archdeacon— John de Mundaville— William Fitz-Renulph— Eustersia, sister of sd Renulph — Richard Tison— Robert, son of Norman Brues, of Bornton — Ranulph Blaca, Presbyter of Hexham— Hely, Presbyter of Morpeth— Will. Presbyter of Stenniton— Gamel de Arle— Meldred de Aclet— Roger Coismers. MORPETH PARISH. 197 Roger, the third, granted to his burgesses a freedom from all taxes, subsidies, or contributions, except those to the king for public safety, the marriage honours of the lord's heir or eldest daughter, or the lord's redemption from captivity. By the same charter, the prizes raised by his officers and servants, or those of his successors, on bread and beer, and other things, were assigned to the creditors within the borough, to be paid within forty days. Such of them as were not paid within that time, were enjoined to remain easy till they could be paid. The lord was at liberty, in the mean time, to make other prizes, at his pleasure. His prize for beer in the whole year was three gallons, valued at one penny. Their accustomed common-right, pasturage, and other conveniences, were confirmed to them and their successors, and way-leave granted to and from the town, corn-fields and meadows only excepted. He gave them liberty of pasture on his stubbles of Wenherlaw, to the west of the town, be tween Newminster priory and the foss or ditch of the west park ; reserving to him self and his hebs the eatage of them for fifteen days after the corn was carried off. They had fuel from his turbaries within the manor of Morpeth, at his pleasure, for a penny a load. For every horned beast, and for every horse, found feeding in his en closed grounds, they paid a halfpenny, and the same for five sheep, as a compensation for three several trespasses, as well Avithout as within the enclosures ; and for the fourth trespass of every horned beast in his enclosed wood or boscage, they paid eight-pence, and four-pence for each taken without the inclosure, and afterwards taking only a halfpenny for a beast trespassing three times as at first. If their cattle were taken among corn, or in the meadows, they made reparation according to the season of the year. He granted and Confirmed to them and their successors most of the unoccupied ground, which was their ancient market-place, with an injunction to build stalls for the use of butchers and those that sold fishes ; and a prohibition for any of their goods to be sold before the hour of nine o'clock, and in no other part of the town, except in gross or by wholesale ; his lordship reserving to himself and his successors a power to build upon any of his lands wherein he had granted a right of common to the corporation. He confined them to grind their corn at his mib of Morpeth, according to former usage. Lord Merley's market at Morpeth proved such a detriment to the neighbouring market of Mitford, that Roger de Bertram, Baron of Mitford, 34 king Henry HI. 1250, impleaded him in the county court of Northumberland for damages ; but the king being acquainted with it, sent his precept to the sheriff, prohibiting him to pro ceed further in that suit, because it belonged not to his jurisdiction. Lord Merley founded a chantry in the church at Stannington. He died 50 king Henry III. 1265, and was interred at Newminster, near his father. An inquisition was taken of his barony in the same reign ; also 1 king Edward I. when it was found, that the burgesses paid annually for the fee-farm of the town to his lordship, £10; that he received annually for felons' goods, stallage, and a salmon fishery in the river Wansbeck, £3, 6s. 8d. per annum ; and for his park, cabed East-park, containing 418 acres, £6, 13*. 4 »>@o»> < ? ^ONE of the Northumberland Wards equal Tindale in extent and po pulation. It is computed to be, on an average, 29 miles in length from east to west, and 28 miles in breadth from north to south. It contains every variety of soil and aspect ; the central and eastern parts consist of rich and highly cultivated lands ; but the rest of the Ward is mostly mountainous wilds, covered with heath. It is web watered by numerous rivers and burns, and is uncommonly rich in mineral productions. About 41,000 acres is annuaby appropriated to the growth of grain and roots, and about 27,000 acres are kept as meadow lands. As the wab of Severus, that stupen dous remain of the power, the art, and the pobcy of the Romans, passed through this Ward, it abounds with the most curious and interesting antiquities. —••¦?>$d. The proprietor's seat, which was rebubt by the first Sir Wb liam, stands in a fine, low, sheltered situation. Kirk Harle was one of the manors of the barony of Bolbeck, and belonged to Sir Robert Harle, son and heir of Wibiam de Harle.* By the escheats 38 Edward III. (1365), Sir Robert died seized of a moiety of the barony of Bolbeck, namely, Byweb, a moiety of Stiford, Broomhaugh, Shotley, village of Healey, manor of Kirk Harle, &c. William, Baron of Greystock, son and heir of Ralph, Baron of Greystock, gave to Robert de Harle, knt. a moiety of Shotleyshire, in exchange for a moiety of the vbl. of Angerton. The manor of Kirk Harle was afterwards the property of the Strothers, from whom it descended to the family of Loraine, in whose possession it stib remains. Robert, the first of the Loraine family in England, came over with William the Conqueror. For his services in that expedition, and in the incursion of Malcolm, king of Scotland, in the sixth year of the reign of Wbliam Rufus, he was rewarded with several large estates in Ufferton ; East, Middle, and West Harrington, in the county of Durham ; and free fisheries in the river Wear.f He was a distinguished scholar, and was the author of some learned works. Sir J. Loraine, knt. 1392, ac companied by Thomas Atte Brigge, of Salle, went to the Holy Sepulchre ; an account of which pilgrimage, written by the latter, is still extant in a MS. in the library of Caius College, Cambridge. Some of this family have been knights-templar, as may be seen in the Temple Church, and have matched with the ancient and principal gentry. The descendants of Robert resided in the county of Durham until the reign of king Henry V. when William Loraine, by marrying Johanna, the eldest daughter and one of the three coheiresses of Wbliam del Strother, of Kirk Harle Tower, be came possessed of the manor and ancient mansion-house of Kirk Harle, with about 1900 acres of arable land. From William Loraine, by Johanna his wife, descended Edward, wbo married Elizabeth, daughter of John Harding, Esq. of Hobinside, in the county of Durham, and died in the reign of king Richard HI. He was suc ceeded by his son, Robert, Avho married Margaret, daughter of Robert Bowes, Esq. of the county of Durham. He was murdered near his own mansion by the moss-troopers, for his * Of this family was Charles Herle, Master of Arts, of Exeter College, famous in his time for having the best living, viz. Winwick in Lancashire, and being prolocutor ofthe Assembly of Divines met in 1643, but chosen after Dr. Twisse's death in 1646. He left his great rectory in the heat ofthe war, and was amonw the London divines a leading man for the parliament's proceedings against the king. After the king's death he obtained satisfaction of the parliament for his losses and services, and returned to Winwick, where he lived about eleven years, and, dying, was buried in the chancel there. t 9 Edward I. 1335, "An agreement was made between the English and Scottish kings; Alexander Mowbray, Godfrey de Roos, William Bullock, and Eustace de Lorreyne, commissioners/' Among other particulars, it is ordered, that the said Stacie de Lorreyne shall have his lands and tenements, which he ought to have in Scotland, restored to him again ; and if any have wronged him, he shall have lawful satisfaction. Done at St. Johns-town, August 18, 1335. — James Loraine, Banneret, was slain at the battle of Durham, A. D. 1356 (28 Edward III.). — Sir Nele Loraine, a Knight of the Garter at the institution of that order, 24 Edward III. 1352.— Baker's Chronicle, p. 233 § 243. 212 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D manly and spirited endeavours to bring them to justice, in memory of which a stone pibar was erected. William, his son, married Agnes, daughter of Sir Wbliam Waters, knt. of the county of York. He was succeeded by his son, Thomas, who married Thomasin, daughter of Thomas Walter, of Whitweb, in the county of Durham, gent. He died, in the 15th year of the reign of king James I. Thomas, his son, married the widow of Thomas Bewick, Esq. of Close House, in Northumberland. He was a distinguished scholar, being a great proficient' in the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew tongues. He died 1 king Charles II. and was succeeded by his son, I. Sir Thomas, the first baronet. He married Grace, eldest daughter of Sir Wil liam Fenwick, Bart, and sister of Sir John Fenwick, Bart, who was attainted temp. Wbliam III. by whom he had fourteen sons and five daughters, and dying January, 1717, was succeeded by his eldest son, II. Sir William. He was of Lincoln's Inn, and practised some years as a barrister. He married, first, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Lawrence, knight, alderman of London. She died in about three years, and left no issue. He married, secondly, Anne, only daughter of Richard Smith, by whom he had five sons and four daugh ters : Thomas, the eldest son, died an infant; two others died young; Richard, the youngest, was entered of the Temple, and died October 26, 1738, unmarried. Sb Wibiam died January 24, 1743, aged 84, and was succeeded by his only surviving son, III. Sir Charles, who married, first, Margaret, daughter of Ralph Lambton, Esq. who died June 30, 1746, by whom he had one daughter, Dorothy, who died an infant. He married, secondly, Dorothy, daughter of Ralph Millott, Esq. of Whitehib, county of Durham, who died March 7, 1787, aged 85, by whom he had four sons : 1, Wil liam ; 2, Charles Loraine Smith (who took the latter name for an estate in Lincoln shire; he Avas representative for the borough of Leicester in 1784) — he married Elizabeth Anne Wilson, of Birtnell, in Berkshire, by whom he had two sons, Charles Crayle, who died young, and Loraine ; 3, Lambton, married Isabella, second surviv ing daughter of Sir Lancelot Allgood, by whom he had one son and four daughters, Dorothy Jane, Elizabeth, Richard Lambton, Isabeba Charlotte, and Georgiana ; 4, James Thomas, in 1777, married Margaret, daughter of John Haigh, Esq. by whom he had three daughters, Eleanor Susan, Jemima, and Margaret. Sir Charles died April 29, 1775, aged 54, and was succeeded by his eldest son, IV. Sir William, the late Baronet. He married, in 1776, Hannah, the eldest sur viving daughter of Sir Lancelot Abgood, of Nunwick, in Northumberland, knt. by whom he had four sons and four daughters : Jane, who died young ; Charles, the present Baronet; William; John Lambton; EdAvard Fenwick, who died younc; Anne, who married Dr. Headlam, of Newcastle ; Elizabeth ; and Henrietta. He died December 19, 1809, and was succeeded by his eldest son, V, Sir Charles, the present Baronet. He married, in 1800, Miss Compart, only daughter of the late Vincent Compart, Esq. by whom he has issue. He was high sheriff of the county in 1814. Hawick is a township in this parish, but from which it is distant about 4| miles north by west. In 1821, it contained but three dwebing-houses, though it includes CORSENSIDE PARISH. 213 an extent of 1198 acres. It lies on the north of Hawick Burn, which joins the Wansbeck near Kirkwhelpington, and is the property of John Trevelyan, Esq. of Walbngton. There was formerly a chapel here, on a place stib cabed the Chapel Hib. Kirk Heaton is a smab extra-parochial chapelry, which adjoins the southern di vision of Kirkwhelpington parish, and stretches from Bavington Hall, in Thockring- ton parish, towards Belsay, in the parish of Bolam. Its southern side is bounded by Stamfordham parish. This chapelry, the greater part of which belongs to Messrs. Craster and Bewick, contains 28 houses and 140 inhabitants, and has the convenience of a landsale colliery. The chapel stands on the west side of the vibage, which con tains a few cottages for labourers. It is a very neat erection, and service is performed on Sunday afternoons. The bving is a donative, in the presentation of Messrs. Cras ter and Bewick, who obtained their property here after much litigation with Mr, Stote Manby, who claimed as heir at law to Lady Windsor, and to whom, on his re signing this claim, they granted a considerable annuity. CORSENSIDE PARISH. This parish is bounded by Bebingham on the west, Elsdon on the north, Kirk whelpington on the east, and Choberton on the south. Its length from west to east is rather more than 6 mbes, and its breadth from north to south between 4 and 5. It is divided by the river Reed into nearly two equal parts. The soil is various. The greater part is moory ; but near the river, the soil is of a light, gravelly nature, and produces excellent crops, or forms luxuriant permanent meadoAvs. The other part is mostly arable land, which seems to be peculiarly web adapted for the growth of barley and oats. The estates are generaby small, and divided amongst different proprietors. Coal is found in the southern part of the parish, and lead in the west ern ; but the latter mine has not been wrought for a considerable time. The entire parish contains 84 dAvebing-houses, and 487 inhabitants. The poor-rates, in 1821, amounted to £214, 15*. The church is very inconveniently situated at Corsenside, being nearly at the north-west extremity of the parish. Though a very small building, yet it is suffi, ciently large for the number of hearers. It belonged to the priory of Halystone, and the living is a discharged vicarage in the gift of Mr. Tweedle, of Threepwood, There are but two villages in this parish, West Woodburn and East Woodburn. These places probably derived their name from the cbcumstance of the southern parts of this parish having been formerly covered with wood. West Woodburn is pleasantly seated upon Watling-street, at the west side of the Reed, and consists of ' ten dwelling-houses, one of which is a public house. The only school in this thinly peopled parish is finely situated at this place, and is only about 100 yards distant from • the bridge by which Watling-street crosses' the river. About the year 1817, the Rev. Anthony Hedley gave a plot of ground, on which the school and a house for the master have been built, and a neat garden formed. On an average, 50 scholars re ceive instruction here, lt has frequently been remarked, that this county produces an uncommon number of excellent mathematicians, a strong proof of which is afforded by the progress made by the students in this school: Mr. William Rutherford, the vol. ii, 3 H 214 TINDALE WARD— N.E. D. master, has had seven pupils studying the higher branches of the mathematics at one time, most of whom have advanced considerably in Algebra, Geometry, Trigonome try, Conic Sections, &c. and have even proceeded as far as the Fluxional Calculus, in which they have been distinguished by their clear and accurate manner of reasoning. Three of the best in this class are still very young. John Riddle is about 16, Thomas Burn about 18, and Thomas Snaith about 17 years of age:.* East Woodburn lies about a mile east of Watling-street, and but a short dis tance from an elboAv of the Reed. It consists of about 15 houses, including an ale house, inhabited by mechanics and labourers. There are no splendid mansiomfin this parish. The houses of the lairds generally consist of two kitchens, a parlour, and two rooms above. Three or four of them still inhabit the Peels, or strong houses of their ancestors. The farm-houses and many of the cottages are A7ery similar, and not infe rior in appearance and accommodations, to the houses of proprietors. Risingham stands about 2-| miles south of Corsenside, 12 miles north of the wall, and close by the river Reed. It is about half a mile west of the modern turnpike, which here lies about that distance east of the old Roman road, that passed the sta tion about two or three chains to the west of it, and is connected with it by a raised causeway, which is still entire, but grass-grown. Its area contains 3 acres, 3 roods, and 26 perches, and is coA^ered with the lines of ancient buildings. Hodgson says, " The Avails are high ridges of ruins ; they make a flexure at the north gate, Avhere a sluggish back-Avater from the Reed lies against them. The ditch is in many places very visible. Opposite this station were many A-ery considerable and interesting re mains of the Roman bridge over the river Reed. The middle piers, in particular, were to be seen about four years ago ; but they haA^e all been removed by Mr. Reed, of the Craig, an adjoining proprietor, for the purpose of using the stones in embank ing the river. Forty years since (1813), a mile-pillar Avas standing a mile south of the station ; and, at present, there is one used as a gate-post opposite the door of the inn at Woodburn." Riceingahcem signifies " the home of the osier meadoAvs." Wallis conjectures that the name of this place imports its situation upon a high or rising ground ; but Cam den concludes that it means "the habitation of giants," because Risingberg in Ger many signifies the mountain of giants. This opinion he supports by a traditional tale which the inhabitants of his time had, " that the god Mogon a long Avhile defended this place against some soldan or Pagan prince. Nor do they speak at random, for * Mr. Edward Riddle, head master of the Royal Naval Asylum at Greenwich, and one of the most pro found mathematicians in England, was taught at West Woodburn, where a school was kept by Mr. Cuthbert Atkinson (father of Mr. Henry Atkinsop, an eminent mathematician in Newcastle, and who has become bro ther-in-law to Mr. Riddle) ; but he received the first rudiments of his education at Troughend, in Elsdon parish, the place of his nativity. He first left his paternal roof at the Low Learn, in this parish, and became a teacher at Shillafield, near Shitlington Hall, in the parish of Wark. In a short time he removed to Whit burn, in the county of Durham, after which he was chosen master of the school belonging to the Trinity House at Newcastle. He has long been a distinguished correspondent in the Ladies' Diary and other pe riodical works ; and has nearly ready for publication a practical work on Navigation. He enjoyed the esteem and friendship of the late Dr. Charles Hutton, and has, in honour of his talents, been chosen an honorary member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Newcastle upon Tyne. CORSENSIDE PARISH. 215 that this god was worshipped here, appears from two deo altars lately taken out of the river here." The first in- mogonti. cad scription given by Camden is annexed. Deo Mogonti et. n. dn. avg Cadenorum § Numini Domini Nostri Augusti Marcus M. c. secvndinvs Caius Secundinus Beneficiarius Consulis Habitanci Pri- bf. cos habita mas, tam pro se et suis posuit. Mr. Horsley reads the lat- nci prima sta — ter part of this inscription, " Prima Statione pro se et suis pro se et svis posvit posuit." The altar on which this inscription is cut was taken out of the river Reed, and is now in Trinity College, Cambridge. Horsley could find no trace of deo ; and Woodford has tai... instead of ta in the sixth line. The god Mogon was a local deity of the Cadeni or Gadeni. The Beneficiarii, one of whom erected this altar, were soldiers who attended the chief officers of the army* and were exempt from duty, somewhat like our cadets. Prima Statio may imply, that it was the first northern station at the time the altar Avas erected, or that it was the first station north of the wab. The other altar in the margin was also taken out of the deo river. Mr. Horsley says, " According to this copy, it appears mavno cad — to have been erected to another topical and tutelar god of the inventvs do — Gadeni. It is a question whether Maunus may have been v. s. the same with Matunus, to whom an altar was erected at Els don, a few miles from this place ; or, perhaps, the same deity is here designed as in the former. The third line in the inscription has, no doubt, contained the name of the person who erected this votive altar. We find the name Inventus in Gruter." Mr. Hutchinson, adopting the theory of Mr. Bryant, imagines that Magon is a cor ruption of Macar, a sacred title given by the Amonians to their deity, the sun ; and that the Romans, to pacify the Britons, and to incite them to mix in their worship, erected their altars on this sacred mount, and inscribed them with Amonian titles. However, as Camden remarks, it is ascertained from these inscriptions that this place is the Roman Habitancum. Risingham must have been a Roman station about the time of Aurelius Antoni nus. It seems to have gone to decay before the reign of Caracaba, and to have been afterwards restored. One altar found here bears the annexed inscription, of which Mr. Horsley gives the following reading nvminib and remarks : — " Nnminibus Augustorum, Cohors Quarta Gal- avgvstor lorum Equitum fecit. The sculpture has suffered by the wea- coh mi gal ther, but the inscription is still very legible. The emperors, eq in honour of whom it has been erected, I take to be Severus fec and Caracaba, who were much hereabout, and, I believe, were possessed of this very station. This cohort seems to have been a flying squadron, for by inscriptions we find them in several places. The inscription is included in a kind of corona, or rather an octagon, circumscribed by a square moulding. There are ornaments of eagles' heads on each side, above which is the appearance of two faces, probably designed for those of the emperors referred to by the inscription. Mars and Victory, in their usual dress and appearance, are set in a niche, one at each end of the stone. The other ornaments seem only to be such as pleased the fancy of the sculp tor. The Victory treads on a globe ; and, no doubt, the general meaning is, that the 216 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. emperors had warred successfully, and gained a victory over the whole world." Camden says, " This long stone has an elegant rebef, far surpassing the rest in execu tion." There is an engraving from the original, which is in Trinity Cobege, in Speed's map of this county. There is an imperfect inscription in Camden, of which the original is lost, that runs thus:— "...I COS Cvl PRE N. AVREL. CAST. VETvsTaTE CoNLaBS." Mr. Gale observes, " that vetustate conlabsum signifies a falbng to decay, and not a destruction by fire, war, or other enemy than age and neglect." There are other inscriptions found upon altars at this place, or at Chesterhope, a short distance to the south. In Trinity Cobege* the following is preserved:— " deae tertianae sacrvm ael. timothea p v. s. ll. m." The original lost, and nothing known respecting the goddess Tertiana. "herculi ivl pavllvs trib v. s." On an altar, used as a gate-post, on the south side of the station in Horsley's time. "...AVR. ANTONINI. PII. AVG. M. MESSORIVS DILIGENS TRIBAHSTVS SACRVM," at Trinity College. There is no doubt but pro salute imperatoris M. has gone before, and perhaps the altar has been to Jupiter Optimus Maximus, or to Jupiter and the numina Augusti, as at Benwell. M. A. Antoninus, cabed Phbosophus, had wars here, and his legate, Calpurnius Agricola, is named in an inscription or two in these parts ; and it is probable that both this inscription, and some others in the north, belong to that emperor. These inscriptions are ab mentioned by Camden ; but the two fol lowing were first published in Warburton's map :f — " marti victori...vs pvbli...ivs * Most of the antiquities discovered here were removed by Sir Robert Cotton to Conington, and were be queathed by him to Trinity College, Cambridge, and are deposited in the stair-case of the grand library there. Sir Robert accompanied Camden in his journey to examine these antiquities. t In a copy of Warburton's Vallum Romanum, in the possession of Mr. James Charleton, of the Anchorage- school, Gateshead, are the following MS notes. They appear to have been written by Mr. George Allan, of Darlington, to whom the book had belonged. " This work is no more than Mr. Horsley's account of the Walls reprinted, and all the inscriptions of each station thrown together, as a pocket companion for those who visit them. The compiler, in company with Mr. Horsley, surveyed this county, of which he published a map in 17 J 6, on three sheets, with the arms ofthe nobility and gentry, and a great number of Roman altars and inscriptions. He caused a survey and plan of this wall and military way to be made in 1715, to shew the necessity of repairing the latter ; but on the suppression of the rebellion, his scheme- was no more thought of, till that of 1745 revived it, and an act passed, 1751, to make the road. The plates of this work are in the hands of George WagstafF, bookseller, in Spitalfields. " Horsley, in his Britannia Romana, frequently charges Warburton with incorrectness in copying the in* scriptions ; to which he replies in his preface, that they were all submitted to him before they were engraved, which obliged him to copy his remarks and observations here. Gordon, who spends the whole 8th chapter of his Itinerarium Septentrionale on this wall, complains of the great inaccuracy of Warburton's transcripts. " John Warburton was born in the north of England. He was, at his first setting out in life, an excise man, after which he became a supervisor. He had little or no education, being not only ignorant of the Latin tongue, but incapable of writing two sentences in good English. All the publications under his name, both books and maps, were done by others, hired by him ; nor was his knowledge of the mathematics at all superior to his other acquirements. Although he wanted learning and true abilities, he possessed what, in the commerce of the world, often answers the ends of both ; that is, he was possessed of a deal of low cun ning, and, not being impeded by any principles of honour, he frequently gained both profit and reputation, CORSENSIDE PARISH. 217 trib. v. s. L. M." Marti Victori Julius Publius Pius tribunus votum solvit libens me- rito. " This is lying," says Horsley, " among the ruins of an old house, which has, no doubt, been bubt with Roman stones. There is Mars and Victory on the capital, and an ox's head on the base of the altar. Mars has his usual dress and symbols, a shield in his left hand, and a spear in his right. The Victory, in her usual drapery, holds a globe in her right hand, and a palm-branch in her left. The figures and in scription Marti Victori explain and ibustrate each other." Dr. Hunter first noticed the fobowing fragment, which Hutchinson saAv wabed up in a house upon the station : — " dolocheno c. ivl. pvbl pivs trib. v. s. l. m." — " I am of opinion," says Horsley, " it has been the body or plane of an altar, having met with several parallel instances, where the capital and bases have been struck off from altars, in order to fit them for wabs or such other uses. The appearance of the stone favours this conjecture ; and, upon this supposition, I believe, the altar has been inscribed to Jupiter Optimus Maximus Dolochenus, and that the letters I. o. m. have either been at the top of the plane, and struck off with the capital, or else upon the capital itself. The word dolocheno is very plain upon this inscription ; but in ab other inscriptions, and writers Avho mention this deity, the name is spelt with an i or v in the second syllable; excepting one, which though it be so likewise in Gruter, yet in Petrus Apianus, who had published it before, it is writ, as Montfaucon ob serves, with an O in the second syllable like this. ' Possibly the letters p v b l in the second line may not be another name of the person, but stand for Pubbtia, the name of the tribe to which this Caius Jubus belonged. This tribe is often mentioned in Gruter.' " The Avriter of the article Northumberland in the Beau- I o m ties of England, copied this inscription, "dm aemillia- vi xii c. r. nvs annorvm x," from the original at Campvihe ; it was o, c a communicated, with another sepulchral inscription, to Mr. aemii aemiiaNvs Hutchinson. The two in the margin were also found here, trib c°h. i a^ang and described by Lionel Charlton, in the Gentleman's Ma gazine, in 1753, at which time one of them was in a cow- XI1 : c> R house, the other in a chimney at Woodburn. The first is O c- 1 A very much decayed, but the other is in a better state of ivl victor preservation. Mr. Brand has published the fobowing in his trbv. cch. iv History of Newcastle : — " matribvs tramarinis ivl, angonvm. vict°r v. s. lm." It is upon a handsome altar, discovered here in 1783. Spon's account of the Deae Matres is, that they were deified women, who, whbe living, were thought to have the gift of prophecy, and after their death seem to have been worshipped as a sort of genii, or tutelar deities of the places where they resided. This altar is at Campeville. There is little else meriting notice at this station, except a curious sculpture, de scribed by Horsley as fobows : — " The three human figures are on one side, and the to which he had not the least title. His life was one continued scene of squabbles and disputes with his bre thren of the Herald's Office, by whom he was despised and detected. He married his wife's son, when a minor, to one of his daughters. By his many dirty tricks, he clearly proved the truth of that proverb which says, Honesty is the best policy — by dying a beggar." VOL. II. 3 I 218 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. man holding the horse on the other side of the same stone, which is of a cubical form : these figures are much effaced. The man who holds the horse in his left hand ap pears to be in somewhat like an Armenian dress, with a hasta in his other hand. Two of the other figures are leaning upon pillars, one of which has a staff in his right hand, with two serpents twisted about it, the symbol of iEsculapius,. whose image I take it to be : and the short figure which stands next exactly agrees to Telesphorus, the god of recovery, who is always represented in this manner, with a cloak covering both his arms ; and is often placed between ^Esculapius and his daughter Hygieia, and sometimes standing by iEsculapius alone : in both cases he appears like a boy. He stands with iEsculapius alone in a medal of Caracaba, and between him and Hy gieia in the medals of Lucius Verus and Phbip the younger, as also in a sculpture in Montfaucon. The god and goddess of physic and health, and the god of recovery, are proper companions one of another. The third figure here may be Hygieia, with the calathus upon her head ; the drapery is very doubtful, and the serpent, her usual symbol, does not appear, in which this sculpture agrees Avith that of Montfaucon. A man holding a horse may be an emblem of victory, peace, or security. In a medal of Commodus, with Fortunce manenti on the reverse, Fortune sits holding a horse by the bridle. There is so great a resemblance between this fourth figure and that of Castor upon some coins, that it has created an opinion in me, that it may have been intended for Castor, or Geta under that figure holding his Cybarius in his hand. If the habit be set aside (Avhich is very obscure), how exactly does this answer to Oise- lius's account of a coin of Geta's, where he is represented in the figure of Castor, in a military dress, holding a spear in his left hand, and leading a horse by the bridle with his right ? The figure here, indeed, holds the spear in his right hand, and the horse in his left ; but that is no material difference." In another place, Horsley mentions Severus and his two sons, on a seal, under the figures of Jupiter, Castor, and Pollux.* Robin ofRisingbam, or, as it Avas called by the country people, Robin of Redesdale, Avas a remarkable figure, cut upon the face of a huge piece of rock, that had fallen off from the main one. It Avas on the side of a hill or rock, near the Park-head, and about half a mile from the station at Risingham. The image was in basso relievo, and both the sculpture and sfone very coarse. " I take it," says Horsley, " by the drapery and symbols, to be certainly Roman ; though some, from the rudeness of the sculpture, have thought it British : and probably it is the Emperor Commodus, represented under the figure of Hercules. The square stone beside him must, I suppose, be an altar, and what he carries in his left arm a club: on his left shoulder are distinctly seen a quiver and arrows, and in his right hand a bow, which agree with the character given him by Herodian, who celebrates him as a most excellent archer. What he wears on his head looks like a helmet. Every body knows that Commodus affected to be called the Roman Hercules, and to be worshipped as such. We have his coins with Herculi Romano Avgusto, Herculi Romano Conditori, he. This figure then might represent the Roman Hercules, triumphant and victorious, after things had been settled in Britain by Pertinax, and Commodus assumed the name of Britannicus. The face of the whole piece of rock on which the image is cut, is an irregular figure * Gough's Camden, iii. — Horsley, i. pp. 201, 236, &c. — Philos. Trans. No. 278. — Hutch, i. p. 191, et seq. «— Warb. Val. Rom. p. 139 — Brand, vol. i. p. 6l6. — Beaut. Eng. xii. p. 144. CHOLLERTON PARISH. 219 of five sides ; the side which rests in the ground is six feet and a half; the perpendi cular from the vertex to this side, eight feet ; the tAvo sides to the right of this per pendicular, each of them five feet ; the uppermost side to the left, seven ; and the lower, four ; and the stone is just about six feet thick. The figure stands upright." Hutchinson did not think this figure Avas Roman. His doubts were founded on the following circumstances : The vest in which the figure was habited was open from the waist to the knee ; round the Avaist was a belt buckled before ; the loose garment on the shoulders, leaving the right arm bare and at liberty, was put on in the manner of the Scotch plaid. Descending to modern times, we still find several personages dis tinguished by the name of Robin of Redesdale. One of the Umfranvibes had that appellation ; and in the time of Edward IV. we find one Hilbard of the Lancasterian party thus denominated in the History of England. Sir Walter Scott (Rokeby, note ix. to canto 1) says, " The popular tradition is, that it (the figure) represents a giant, whose brother resided at Woodburn, and he himself at Risingham. It adds, that they subsisted by hunting, and that one of them, finding the game become too scarce to support them, poisoned his companion, in whose memory the monument was en graven. What strange and tragic circumstance may be concealed under this legend, or whether it is utterly apocryphal, it is now impossible to discover." Unfortunately, a churlish Goth has entirely destroyed this curious remain of anti quity. To prevent the learned or inquisitive stranger, who might occasionaby wan der to this sobtary place, from passing over a few yards of his ground, the owner, John Shanks, obliterated the figure. The land on which the trespass was made is certainly not worth a shilbng an acre !* The Watling-street here has left the ancient appellation, Learn, to tAvo farm-houses in the neighbourhood, as it has done in Learning-lane, Yorkshire, and in Leam-lane, in the county of Durham, to the Roman way, Raking Dike, from Lanchester to South Shields. At the north side of the parish, there is a rock called Darnock Craig, in which there is a cave of very great length. It has been explored a long way, and contains, it is said, a spring of excellent water. CHOLLERTON PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Bebingham and Corsenside, on the west by Wark and Simonburn, on the south by St. John Lee, and on the east by the latter * In the Dedicatory Epistle to the romance of Ivanhoe, "by the author of Waverley," this disgraceful cir cumstance is noticed in the following manner : — " Several curiosities have been lately dug up near the Wall, as well as at the ancient station of Habitancum. Talking of the latter, I suppose you have long since heard the news, that a sulky churlish boor has destroyed the ancient statue, or rather bas-relief, popularly called Robin of Redesdale. It seems Robin's fame attracted more visitants than was consistent with the growth of the heather, upon a moor worth a shilling an acre. Reverend as you write yourself, be revengeful for once, and pray with me that he may be visited with such a fit of the stone, as if he had all the fragments of poor Robin in that region of his viscera where the disease holds its seat. Tell this not in Gath, lest the Scots re joice that they have at length found a parallel instance among their neighbours, to that barbarous deed which demolished Arthur's oven. But there is no end of lamentation, when we betake ourselves to such subjects." 220 TINDALE WARD— N.E. D and Thockrington parishes. Its length from Hindhaugh on theSReed, to the Erring Burn, a little south of Choberton vibage, is, including the chapelry of Birtley, 8 miles ; and its breadth about 4 miles. Much of the land in this parish, particularly what adjoins the North Tyne, which forms its western boundary, is web adapted for turnips and clover ; and it contains abundance both of coal and lime. In 1821, it contained 226 houses, and 1241 inhabitants. In the same year, the poor-rates amounted to £696, 6*. There is a day-school at Barrasford, attended by 55 scholars, and a web-conducted Sunday-school, attended by 60. At Cobweb there is also a day- school, containing 70 chbdren, 18 of whom are educated at the expence of R. Rid dell, Esq. of Felton. Mrs. Ursula Mountney, in 1680, left a rent charge of forty shillings a year to the poor of this parish. Chollerton. — This hamlet is situated on the eastern banks of North Tyne, and is distant 5^ miles north by east from Hexham. It is a remarkably pleasant vibage, and, with the whole township, containing 1500 acres of excebent arable land, belongs to Sir John Swinburn, Bart. The farm-house is a modern, convenient erection, with a wind-mill for thrashing and grinding corn. The church, which has a tower at the west end, is dedicated to St. Giles ; and the living is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £6, 14*. 4>\d. The vicarage-house, which is a neat and commodious structure, was built at the expence of Sir Walter Blackett, Bart, who Avas the patron of the living. Barrasford is a pleasant village, containing several cottages for labourers, and one public house. It is seated near the Tyne, l£ mile north-west of Choberton, and 6£ miles north of Hexham. The principal part of this township belongs to the Duke of Northumberland. It was the lordship and estate of Robert de Umfranvble, who, having been in the wars of Scotland, 31 Edward I. obtained of that prince, in the 33d year of his reign, a license for a market every week upon Wednesday, and a fair yearly upon the feast of St. Martin (November 11), at his manor of Barrasford, with free-warren in the same lordship ; but both are long since disused. Savinburn is a smab vibage, distant above 2 mbes north of Choberton. Little Swinburn stands nearly two miles further north, the space between being intersected by Watling-street. It was, in 1663, the property of William Middleton, Esq. It soon afterwards passed by purchase to the Swinburns of Capheaton ; and belonged, with Deanum, in the parish of Hartburn, to a younger branch of the famby, who was out in 1715 : they were both forfeited to the crown, and bought by the Loraines of Kirk Harle. Little Swinburn, which is occupied in one large farm, noAv belongs to Sir Charles Loraine, Bart. Here are still considerable remains of the old castle, consisting of a large square tower. Swinburn Castle, belonging to the Riddeb family, is a very elegant stone building, seated on a rising ground, in the midst of a fine ex tensive park. It is surrounded Avith plantations, which are laid out in straight lines, agreeably to the prim, formal taste that once prevailed in this country, As the Swinburns take their name from this place, they probably held it before the reign of king Edward I. : but in that reign, 1272, it was, with Gunnerton, in the possession of Peter de Gunnerton, who held it of the barony of Baliol, by the service CHOLLERTON PARISH. 221 of two knights' fees of the old feoffment. In the reign of king Edward II. it was the seat and manor of Adam de Swinburn, who was seized of the manor of Swinburn, of and in the barony of Haughton and Humshaugh.* It next came to Sir John de Widdrington, of Widdrington Castle, knt. by marrying Christian, the daughter and coheir of the former possessor. 10 Elizabeth, 1568, Sb John Widdrington was seized of the manor and vibage of Great Swinburn, and Little Swinburn, and Haughton, Avith a mediety of the Arib. and manor of Humshaugh ; and by inquisition in the 38th of the same reign, Henry Widdrington held the castle, manor, and village of SAvin- burn, with its appurtenances, of the queen in capite, by the service of four parts of one knight's fee. It continued in this family during many generations. This castle and manor Avas lately possessed by Thomas Riddell, Esq. descended from Sir Jordan de Riddeb, knt. who had a mediety of the lordship and villa of Tib- mouth, in Norhamshire, 1 king Edward I. ancestor to Sir Wibiam de Riddell, knt. high sheriff of Northumberland 8 king Edward II. son to Walter, grandson to Patri cius, and great grandson to Dukentinus de Riddell, lords of the villa and manor of--. Whickham, in the bishopric of Durham. Sir Wbbam was in the possession of the whole manor and villa of Tibmouth, of the manor and villa of Twizef, of the hamlets of Dudhoe and Old Grindon, and two parts of the manor of Upsetlington ; inherited by his three grand-daughters, by his eldest son, Wibiam ; his famby name being preserved in his younger son, Hugh, from whom descended a numerous and opulent race. Thomas, his great grandson, married the daughter and heir of — Harbottle, knt. Peter, great grandson to Thomas, married the sister of Sir Robert Brandling, knt. ; and another Thomas married the daughter of Sir John Corners, knt. Baron of Sockburn, in the bishopric of Durham. Sir Thomas Riddell, in the reign of queen Ebzabeth, was one of the grand lessees in trust for the corporation of Newcastle upon Tyne, of the lordships of Gateshead and Whickham, in the bishopric of Durham, and the parks, wastes, and coal-mines belonging to them, said by Dr. Craddock, archdeacon of Northumberland, to be then worth £50,000 per annum. He was knighted 1st James I. 1603. Sir Thomas erected a seat out of the hospital of St. Edmund, in Gateshead, which, owing to a quarrel between the mob and an old servant, was set on fire as the Duke of Cumber land marched to Scotland in 1 746. The second Sir Thomas Riddell, knt. seated at Fenham, Avas a representative in parliament for Newcastle upon Tyne, 18 king James I. 1620 ; also 3 king Charles I. 1628, with Sir Peter Riddell, knt. Sir Tho mas, by his active zeal and steady loyalty to king Charles I. so provoked the Olive- rians, that they offered by proclamation £1000 for taking him. He narrowly escaped their vengeance by retiring beyond sea from Berwick upon Tweed, and died at Ant werp, 1652. His son, Thomas Riddell, of Fenham, Esq. under an act of parliament, sold Fenham, 1695, to John Ord, Esq. and purchasing Swinburn, settled there, and died 1704. His great grandson, the late Thomas Riddeb, Esq. married the daugh ter and sole heir of Edward Horsley Widdrington, Esq. of Horsley and Felton, in the possession of whose son, Ralph Riddell, Esq. it stib remains. * The lands, rents, and homage claimed by the priory of Hexham, in Swinburn and other places, will be, to prevent useless repetitions, noticed in the history of that religious establishment. VOL. IL 3 K 222 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. Collwell is a small village, which adjoins the turnpike leading from Cambo to Hexham. It is distant 8 miles north-north-east from the latter place, and a short distance east of Swinburn Castle, to which estate it belongs. It contains three farm steads and cottages for labourers. Gunnerton lies on the east side of Gunnerton Burn, about 9 miles north by west of Hexham, and about 2^ miles north-west of Choberton. It consists of two or three farmholds, two public houses, and a few cottages for people employed in husbandry, and, with the great tithes, belongs principally to T. W. Beaumont, Esq. M. P. The chapel, which formerly stood here, is now quite destroyed. Chipchase Castle. — This ancient and beautiful seat is distant 9 miles north- north-west from Hexham, and 4 mbes north-west from Choberton. Leland calls " Chipchase a praty towne and castle, hard on the easte parte of the arme of Northe Tyne ;" and Sir Ralph Sadler, in a letter to Secretary Cecb, says, " the most apte and convenyent placis for the keeper of Tindale to reside in on ab the frontiers are Hawgston, Langley, or Chipchase, in one of which iij placis men of service have al- wayes been placed, and especially for the well executing of that office of Tyndale." — " The old tower," says Hodgson, " stib remains : its roof is bubt on corbels, and has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The grooves of the portcullis, the porter's chamber above it, and tattered fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious." During the reign of king James I. Cuthbert Heron, Esq. made large additions to the old castle. The initials of his name, C. H. cut in stone on each side of his coat of arms, with the date of the year, 1621, is above the south entrance. Soon after it came into the possession of the Reeds, it was thoroughly repaired and much im proved. New gardens were laid out, enclosures made, and the grounds covered with extensive plantations. Several tasteful embellishments have more recently been added, and the interior fitted up in a splendid style ; while many of the rooms were ornamented with very excellent paintings from the best masters. The castle itself is beautifuby situated on a decbvity, on the eastern banks of North Tyne, commanding an elegant prospect. The river forms a fine canal in front, washing a Avoody steep on this side, and on the other the foot of a wild projecting cliff: Nunwick enriches the more distant view, surmounted by Simonburn castle : the Tyne, winding through the vale, in various meanderings, often shews itself; whilst woods, rocks, and heathy eminences, in a happy manner, mingle their various beauties with the cultivated lands upon the landscape. Chipchase Chapel, in 1172, was given to the church of Hexham by Odonel Um franville. It stood near the front of the castle. It was rebubt in the lawn by John Reed, Esq. the first possessor of that name. The vicar of Choberton performs duty here four times a year, for which he receives forty shillings in lieu of all tithes. Chipchase Avas anciently a member of the manor of Prudhoe, belonging to Odonel de Umfranville, 18 king Henry II. who, when he gave the chapel of Chipchase to the canons of Hexham, reserved the manor to Robert de Umfranvibe, his son and heir, in Avhose family it continued through several successions. The Umfranvilles had a little fort here. In 1 king Edward I. Chipchase was the seat of Peter de In- CHOLLERTON PARISH. 223 sula ;* and afterwards of a branch of the noble family of the Herons, of Ford Castle. In the reign of king Henry VIII. it was in the possession of Sir John Heron, knt. whose daughter, Ursilla, married Roger Fenwick, Esq. of Bitchfield, in the parish of Stamfordham, second son of Sir John Fenwick, of Wallington, knt. by Margery, the daughter and heir of John Harbottle, Esq. In the next reign it belonged to Sir George Heron, knt. then keeper of Tynedale ; high sheriff of Northumberland 13 queen Elizabeth. He was killed in a fray with the Scotch Borderers in July, 1575, in company with Sir John Forster, Lord AVarden of the Middle Marches, and his son-in-law, the Lord Russel, who were taken prisoners, but released, and the regent of Scotland, Murray, obbged to make satisfaction by the best offices in his power. He was succeeded by his cousin, Cuthbert Heron, Esq. high sheriff of Northumber land in 1625 ; created a baronet 12 king Charles II. 1662, for his loyalty to king Charles I. in whose service his brother, Colonel George Heron, was slain at the battle of Marston Moor. In the 19th of king James I. he built a very handsome structure adjoining the old castle. He married Elizabeth, the third daughter of Sir Richard Graham, of Netherby, in Cumberland, Bart, master of the horse to king Charles I. and afterwards Lord Preston, by whom he had three sons, viz. Cuthbert, John, and Charles ; the two last of whom lived to succeed him in honour and estate. His grandson, Sir Harry, only son to Sir Charles, sold Chipchase to George Allgood, Esq. of whom it was purchased by John Reed, Esq, high sheriff of Northumberland, 1732 ; descended from a younger branch of the ancient family of the Reeds of Troughend, by the river Reed. He died 20th March, 1754, and was interred in his own chapel. He was succeeded by his nephew, Christopher Soulsby, who took the name of Reed, and was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1764. He married the eldes daughter of Francis Blake, of Twizeb, Esq. great grand-daughter, by the mother's side, to Sir Francis Blake, knt. of Ford Castle, by the river Tib. He was succeeded by his son, John Reed, Esq. who Avas high sheriff of Northumberland in 1810. He married Miss Mary Nevib, of Hub, by whom he has issue five sons and four daughters. He was many years colonel of the Northumberland Militia, and was much noticed by the general officers of the army for his skill in military tactics. In consequence of the failure of the Northumberland Bank, with which Mr. Reed was connected, Chipchase and other parts of his valuable estates have been offered for sale. Other arrangements have also been adopted, from which it is expected the creditors of the bank will be fully indemnified. Mr. R. has just been appointed commissioner of stamps for this county. Reedsmouth, which is delightfully seated at the confluence of the Reed and North Tyne, is the property of Edward Charlton, Esq. of Sandhoe ; but is now occupied by Mr. George Gibson, late of StagshaAv Close House, who married his sister. The east- * 2 Edward I. (A. D. 1273) Robert de Lisle was lord of Chipchase. 1 Edward II. 1307, Peter de Lisle held Chipchase and Whithill, as third part of one knight's fee of old feoffment. But the Insulas axe supposed to be the forefathers ofthe modern Lisles ; the one being the French, and the other the Latin name ofthe family. Lisle's Burn, a streamlet that gives name to a small district in the parish of Corsenside, probably received this designation from Robert de Insula, to whom it chiefly belonged. Some antiquarians think the Scotch Lesleys, who were Flemings, are the same race as the Northumberland Lisles and Insulas. 224 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. ern banks of the Tyne towards the south are covered with very extensive woods, mostly the property of the Duke of Northumberland, which impart to this district a rich and comfortable appearance. The townships of Buteland and Broomhope constitute the northern part of this parish ; the former belonging to Greenwich Hos pital, and the latter to John Davidson, Esq. Tone, west of Birtley, was the seat and estate of Wibiam Sanderson Hodgson, Esq. who resides abroad, and after the de rangement of whose affairs, it was sold to T. Carr, Esq. of Alnwick, who has made great improvements here. The Tone Pitt Inn stands conveniently on the side of the turnpike leading to Jedburgh. BIRTLEY CHAPELRY. This chapelry is bounded on the north, east, and south, by Choberton parish, and is divided on the west from Wark parish by North Tyne. lt is a pleasant, web peo pled district, containing 85 houses and 393 inhabitants. The annual value of pro perty, in 1815, was £4398; and the parish rates, in 1821, amounted to £256, 1*. It contains three schools, in which above 70 chbdren are educated ; and a Sunday-school, attended in summer by 68 children. Birtley village is situated 11 miles north-north-west from Hexham, and above half that distance from Choberton. It consists principaby of cottages for mechanics and labourers, including two public houses. Here are the remains of an old mansion- house, cabed Birtley Hall. Birtley anciently formed part of the barony of Prudhoe. Most of it at present belongs to the Duke of Northumberland. THOCKRINGTON PARISH. This parish is enclosed by Kirkwhelpington on the north, by the same and Kbk Harle on the east, by Kirk Heaton and St. John Lee on the south, and by Choberton on the west. It is above 4 miles from north to south, and on an average 1\ mbes in breadth. It contains 35 houses and 201 inhabitants. Its annual value, in 1815, was £4115 ; and the poor-rates, in 1821, were £219, 10*. Thockrington is a small hamlet, distant lOf mbes north by east from Hexham, The chapel stands on an eminence, from which there is a view of a rich and web cul tivated country on the south and east, over which many beautiful mansions and fine plantations are scattered. In the church-yard is a very old tomb, Avithout any in scription, of an ecclesiastic (or female), said to have been one of the Shaftoe family. Thockrington is a peculiar of the see of York, and Avas first impropriated to it by Richard, bishop of Durham, in 1204; its first fruits, £2, 17*. Id. lt is a prebend, and the lowest in that cathedral. The prebendal interest hi the tithes was, on the demise of Lord Charles Aynsley, purchased by the late David Stephenson, Esq. of Newcastle. Thockrington was part of the possessions of the Shaftoe family, 10 Eb zabeth, 1568 ; and G. D. Shaftoe, Esq. is now the principal proprietor. Hodgson notices that the neighbourhood of this place is celebrated for the excebence of its sheep-walks. STAMFORDHAM PARISH. 225 Little Bavington is distant 11^ mbes north-north-east from Hexham. Ba- vington Hall stands on the east side of the turnpike road, and is adorned with planta tions and other rural ornaments, which combine to give it an agreeable appearance. Opposite the hab stands a remarkable box-tree, formed like a sofa : it is 30 feet long, 12 feet high, and of great breadth. In the reign of Edward I. the prior and monks of Hexham held lands here, the gift of Stephen de Batevibe ; and a right of common, the gift of Gilbert de Wirces- ter. Even at this early period, Little Bavington was the seat of the ancient family of the Shaftoes. It belonged to William Shaftoe, 19 king Charles 1. 1643, who was a captain in the commonwealth army, and a sequestrator in 1658 ; and also of Wil liam Shaftoe, 1 George I.* He was attainted, together with his son John, in 1715, and condemned, but afterwards pardoned. Patten says, he " was formerly a justice of the peace for the county of Northumberland, and has a plentiful estate. There he was brought into the rebellion, from the instigation of his lady, and Mr. John Shaf toe, that was shot at Preston." It came next into the possession of George Shaftoe Delaval, high sheriff of Northumberland in 1740, and a representative for it in par liament in 1767. He was son of the brother of the last mentioned William, by Eli zabeth, sister of Edward Delaval, Esq. of South Dissington. Her brother, Admiral Delaval, purchased the Bavington estate, and left it to his said nephew. The said George, passing a fine, left it to his brother, and afterwards to his nephew, Sir Cuth bert Shaftoe, high sheriff of Northumberland in 1795, whose son, George Dalston Shaftoe, Esq. is the present possessor, Carey Coates, adjoining the Bavington estate on the north-west, had probably at some period been the appanage of a younger branch of that ancient house. It was, towards the latter end of the last century, the estate and residence of William Shaf toe, Esq. His son, Delaval Shaftoe, married his cousin, Mary, daughter of Charles Shaftoe, of Hexham, attorney, by whom he had an only daughter, Ebzabeth Mary, the wife of Isaac Spark, Esq. of Summerrods, who dying, March, 1819, without issue, the estate reverted to her father's sister, who married James Johnston, Esq. the pre sent owner of Carey Coates. Sweethope, belonging to John Trevelyan, Esq. of Wabington, and occupied in sheep-walks, forms the north division of the parish. Here is a smab lake, the chief source of the river Wansbeck, STAMFORDHAM PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Bolam and Kirk Heaton, on the west by St. John Lee and Halton, on the south by Corbridge and Ovingham, and on the east by Heddon on the Wall and Newburn. Its length from east to west is computed at 5\ miles, and its breadth from north to south at 4-J. It is well inclosed and culti vated, and contains abundant seams of coal and lime. The annual value of the parish, * " We know that Sir Ralph Shaftoe and Mr. Clavering (both now living) have really made large progress in its (Northumberland) antiquities ; and we hope they will be so just to the public and themselves as shortly to communicate 'em."— Bishop Nicholson's English Historical Library, 1714. VOL. II. 3 L 226 TINDALE WARD— N.E. D. in 1815, was returned at £23,170. In 1821, it contained 340 dwelling-houses, and a population of 1827 persons. In the same year, the poor-rates amounted to £941, 1*. Mr. Henry Paston, of Black Heddon, by a deed, dated the 14th March, 1698, gave £12 per annum out of his estate at Black Heddon and Wabridge, to be distributed by the minister and churchwardens at four several terms, viz. 1st May, 1st August, 11th November, and 2d February. In Stamfordham there is a free school, founded by Sir Thomas Widdrington, knt. 1663, who endowed it with land at the Heugh, on the east side of the town, which, at the time, was valued at £10 per annum ; but by a return made to parbament, and printed in 1819, the annual rent has risen to £210. The school is attended by 80 scholars: tbe master's salary is £160 per annum, and that of the assistant usher £50. There is also a Sunday-school here, which, with a day-school at Hawkweb, one at Ryal, and another at Matfen, afford sufficient means of education. Stamfordham is distant 12 mbes north-west by west from Newcastle, and 11 miles east-north-east from Hexham. It is a pleasant web-built town, seated on the north bank of the river Pont, and consists principally of one long and broad street, which slopes towards the river, lt contains nearly 100 houses, including three pubbc houses, and a brewery belonging to Mr. Hunter. In the centre is a covered market- cross, surmounted with a square pinnacle. On the east side is this inscription : — " erected by sir john swinburNj bart. 1735." And on the other side is his coat armorial. Here is a market, and three annual fairs, on the 12th of Aprb, Holy Thursday, and Thursday succeeding the 26th of August. Opposite to the market place, on the south side, is a free school, founded by Sir Thomas Widdrington. The parochial church stands on the west side of the market-cross. It has three aisles, and a gabery at the west end. The chancel was built by the FenAficks. There was, on the north side of the altar, an ancient tomb of this family, with an effigy of a man in armour on the wab, in the habit and attitude of a knight-templar, nearly covered with a tomb of the Swinburns ; also another in the same style, close by the south chancel door, the arms very distinct on the coat of mail. The representation of an ecclesias tic in long robes, near the vestry door, is likewise said to be of the Fenwick famby. The one before the central steps of the altar was removed by Dr. Baker, the vicar. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the crown, and is valued in the king's books at £14, 18*. l\d* The vicarage-house stands on the south side of the church. It is an * On the 24th September, 1662, king Charles presented the vicarage of Stamfordham to the Rev. Ralph Fenwick, A. M. : not said how vacant. — Edward Fenwick Clerk was presented on the death of Ralph Fen wick: time not mentioned. — In 1719, Ambrose Fenwick, A. M. succeeded on the resignation of Edward Fenwick. — 18th March, 1732, James Baker, A. M. succeeded on the death of Ambrose Fenwick. He was a very worthy, but a very eccentric man. He was a great agriculturist, and was called the draining doctor. He kept no servant, but had his meals from a public house. He never changed his coat till in tatters. He resigned Stamfordham on his succeeding to the family estate of Pen, county of Bucks, and died 14th De cember, 1783, very much lamented by all who knew him. — 17th December, 176l, Thomas Dockwray, A. M. afterwards D. D. followed on the resignation of Mr. Baker. Dr. Dockwray died December 14, 1783, very much respected. — In December, 1783, the Rev. O'Bryne, an Irishman, was presented. He was afterwards an Irish bishop. At the time of his presentation, he was secretary to tbe Duke of Portland, STAMFORDHAM PARISH. 227 elegant building, being considerably enlarged and improved by the late vicar, Dr. Thomas Dockwray. Over the south entrance is the following inscription : — " ^edes hasce reeecit thomas dockwray, mdcclxil" The gardens are extensive, and there is a fine terrace before the house, below which is a grass lawn, bordered with shrubs, the Pont forming a semicircle at the extremity. On the west is a smab island, formed by the river, which is passed on the east by a stone bridge of two arches. There are several beautiful prospects from the banks of the river at this place, which render the walks highly agreeable. East Matfen. — This township bes on the south side of the Pont, above a mbe west of Stamfordham, and contains one farmhold and a few straggbng cottages. From the ruins still visible here, this must have been a place of more consequence. West Matfen stands above 2 miles west of Stamfordham, 2 miles north of the Roman wab, and 9 miles north-east of Hexham. It is a snug little vibage, contain ing two rows of cottages, and a detached range of well-built houses, where the steward has a neat residence. Here are also two farmsteads and two pubbc houses, with the various mechanics necessary in an agricultural village. South of the vblage stands Matfen Hall, Avhich is a neat stone building, situated on a fine eminence, sheltered by extensive woods, with a grass lawn in front, bounded by the Pont. From the bridge is a vista of considerable extent, opening upon the military road. Both the house and pleasure-grounds are simple, elegant, and pleasing. In a field on the east side of the vista, about three-quarters of a mile from the house, was a circular mount, with a round cavity in the middle, of the form of the Celtic tumuli ; an upright stone pibar standing by it, of a great size, nine feet high above ground, with flat sides, three feet broad, and a foot and a half thick. The mount was composed of earth and numerous masses of stone, of the coarse rag kind, which was used for bubding the adjoining farmstead. Among them were discovered two kistvaens, consisting of four flags set edgeways, with a bottom stone and a stone cover, containing the ashes of the dead, appearing like a white dust. " From this description," says Mr. Hutchinson, " I apprehend it was one of the most curious pieces of antiquity, of the tumuli order, that was in this county, or per haps the north of England. I humbly conceive it was not a Celtic temple, as Mr. Wabis calls it, being evidently appropriated to the sepulture of the dead ; a defile ment at no time permitted by the Druids in their holy places. Its distant antiquity is proA^ed by the mode of sepulture ; the burning of the deceased, after the manner of the Romans, was not attended with the mode distinguished here in interment ; the Danes used burning the deceased, but we have no evidence in what manner they practised it in England. From the cavity on the croAvn of the mount, similar to and was hastily inducted by proxy (Rev. — Clerkson, of Kirk Harle), on account of the duke then going out of the ministry, and not willing to neglect an opportunity of providing for his chaplain. O'Bryne was a man of elegant manners, and was married to a daughter of Colonel Stuart, who was killed in the Ameri can war. He was bred in the English College at Lisbon, and, on his return, became chaplain to Lord Petre, when, after some time, he embraced Protestantism, and was finally rewarded with a bishopric. — Ed wa rd South Thurloe was presented by his brother when lord chancellor. 228 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D some of the Druids' monuments I have seen, I am induced to apprehend this was the mausoleum of the Druid tribe, and of the remotest antiquity ; and that such cavity was adapted to rites paid to the manes of the deceased." Perhaps neither of these conclusions are correct. It seems highly probable that the sepulchres of the ancients, from being beheld with veneration, became afterwards ap pbed to the solemnization of their highest rites of rebgion and festivity. Hence, as soon as Alexander had arrived upon the plains before Troy, he performed sacrifices and other usual rites at the tumulus of Achibes, as if it had been one of the esta blished customs of the country ; and exactly the same practice prevabed among the Druids, who used their barrows as altars for sacrifice. Besides, single upright stones, though not constituting portions of a temple, may have been regarded with rehgious reverence by the ancient Britons, and may indeed have been worshipped by them, as representatives of their fanciful gods. These holy places continued to be revered even after the introduction of Christianity ; and it was lately a custom in the Scotch isles to lay the corpse (as it was carried to burial) on some bttle barrow, around which the attendants made a tour sun-ways. The reason assigned for the observance of this Druidic custom was, that one barrow was consecrated to St. Martin, and another to the Virgin Mary. Borlase, in his learned work on the Antiquities of Cornwab, observes, that " the first missionaries in Ireland (in order to prevab in greater points) were forced to con nive at some of the Druidic superstitions, and, instead of abobshing them quite, thought it best to give them only another, and a Christian turn. Not being able to withdraw the people from paying a kind of adoration to erected stones, they cut crosses on them, and then permitted that superstition. So here, their missionaries, sent to convert these ignorant islanders, seeing the profound veneration they had for barrows, dedicated them to Christian saints, and then abowed of the rehgious turn, resting the corpse, and the like fanciful absurdities."* West Matfen was the manor of Phibp de Ulcote in the reigns of king John and king Henry ; and was held by grand serjeancy, by the service of keeping the pleas of the crown. He was joined in commission with Hugh de Babol, 17 king John, 1216, to hold the castle and town of Berwick upon Tweed against the barons. He was high sheriff of Northumberland, 16, 17 king John, and 1, 2, 3, 4 king Henry III, He died in the 18th of the latter reign, and was succeeded in this and his other estates by his five sisters, viz. Alice, Margaret, Juliana, Isabeb, and Constance, as was found by an inquisition in that year. It was afterwards in the possession of the Feltons ; of Sb William de Felton, high sheriff of Northumberland, 5, 6, 7, 8 king Edward II. and 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 king Edward III. ; also a representative for it in parliament with Sir Robert de Maimers, of Etab, 14 king EdAvard III. 1340 ; Avho were allowed by the county £23, 4*. for their expences : of Sir John de Felton, 42 king EdAvard III. ; of his son, Sir John de Felton, high sheriff of Northumberland 14 king Richard II. He died 4 king Henry IV. He left one daughter, Ebzabeth, married to Sir Edward de Hastings, who at her mother's death, 10 king Henry V. succeeded to this manor and other lands, according to a deed of settlement made by the above-men tioned Sir Wibiam de Felton, She and her husband, Sir Edward, had a considerable * See Borlase's Antiq. p. 162, 16'3; and Mona. Antiqua, p. 52. STAMFORDHAM PARISH. 229 estate in Matfen and Nafferton, 8 king Henry IV. He was high sheriff of Northum berland, 6 king Henry V. He was succeeded by his son, John de Hastings. In 10 queen Elizabeth, this manor was in the possession of Sir Ralph Lawson, of Byker ; who was succeeded by his nephew and heir, Henry Lawson, Esq. ancestor of the present Sir John Lawson, of Brough Hab, in Yorkshire, Bart. It was afterwards in the possession of a branch of the Fenwicks, of Fenwick Tower, by whom it was abenated, about 1680, to John Douglas, Esq. who acquired a large fortune at New castle as an attorney, and whose eldest son, Oley Douglas, left an only daughter and heiress, who married Sir Edward Blackett, Bart, father of the late Sir Wbbam Blackett, I. Sb Wbbam Blackett, the first baronet, a rich merchant in Newcastle, and a re presentative in parbament for that town, had. several chbdren by his first wife, Ebza beth, daughter of Michael Kirkley, of whom three sons and three daughters survived him, viz. Edward, Michael, and Wbbam ; Isabella, Christian, and Ebzabeth. II. Sir Edward, eldest son, and successor to his father, married, first, Mary, daugh ter of Thomas Norton, Esq. by whom he had only one son, William, who died an infant ; secondly, Mary, daughter of Sir John York, knt. by whom he had six sons and six daughters : 1, Wibiam, who died in his father's life-time, but having married Diana, daughter of Sir Ralph Delaval, Bart, had one daughter, Diana, wife of Henry Mainwaring, Esq. who had issue by her, one son, Henry ; 2, Edward ; 3, John, who married Patience, daughter of Henry Wise, Esq. and had five sons, Edward, Wbbam, Henry, John Erasmus, and Matthew ; 4, Christopher, who married Mrs. Savble, by whom he had one son and one daughter ; Thomas and Christopher, the two other sons of Sir Edward, died without issue. Of his daughters, Ebzabeth was wife of John Wise, Esq. ; Henrietta Maria, of Major Savble ; Alathea, of Walgrave Tan- cred, Esq. fourth son of Sir Wbliam Tancred, Bart. ; Isabel, of Wibiam Norton, Esq. ; Anne, of Mr. Risdale ; and Christian, of Mr. Curtis. Sir Edward married, thirdly, Diana, daughter of George Lord Delamere, and widow of Sir Ralph Dela val, Bart, by whom he had no issue. He served in several parliaments for the county of Northumberland, and for Ripon, in Yorkshire, and died Aprb 23, 1718. III. Sir Edward, eldest surviving son, succeeded his father, and married a daughter of the Rev. Thomas Jekyb, D. D. brother to Sir Joseph Jekyll, knt. (master of the robs), and relict of Nicholas Roberts, merchant. Sir Edward died without issue, March, 1756, aged 73, and his lady in December fobowing, aged 82.* He was suc ceeded by his nephew, IV. Sir Edward, eldest son of John, third son of the first Sir Edward. He was colo nel of the Northumberland militia, and high sheriff of the county in 1757. He also re presented it in parliament from 1768 to 1774. He married, September, 1751, Ann, * " Nov. 29, 1756, — Died, at Hexham, in the 82d year of her age, the worthy relict of the late Sir Edward Blackett, Bart. During a residence of near 40 years, she was a great ornament and benefactress to that town and neighbourhood. Whilst her regular and constant acts of devotion set a fine example of true piety to all around her, a cheerful hospitality enlivened her house; which yet was managed with such prudent economy as enabled her to extend her charities to the poor with a liberal hand. Happy herself in making others so, it was ever her pleasure to relieve the distressed : and as her life was a most valuable blessing to society, her memory must still be dear to the good and benevolent." — Newe. Mag. 6\3, 1756. VOL. IL — (31) 3 M 230 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. daughter and sole hebess of Oley Douglas, of West Matfen,* by whom he had issue five children: 1, Edward, who died unmarried, June 26, 1796, in the 44th year of his age ; 2, John, who died young ; 3, Wbliam ; 4, Ann, who married, in 1785, Ma jor Scott, of Ripon, and had issue ; 5, Mary, who died young. He died at his seat at Thorp, in the county of Surrey, February 3, 1804, aged 85 years. His lady died at the same place, in December, 1805, aged 88 years. V. Sir Wbbam, eldest surviving son, succeeded to the title and estate of his father in 1804, having married, August 6, 1801, the eldest daughter of Benjamin Keene, Esq. of Westoe Lodge, in Cambridgeshire, by whom he had issue four sons and tAvo daughters. The eldest, Wibiam Douglas, born October, 1802, died March, 1805. Edward, born February, 1805, succeeds to the estates. Sir Wbliam was sheriff of Northumberland in 1807, and died at Westoe Lodge, October 27, 1816. Messrs. Pearson, Dunn, Aynsley, WaAvn, Roweb, &c. are also freeholders in this township. Each freeholder is lord of his own manor. Ryal is situated 4-^ miles west by north of Stamfordham. It was the lordship of John Lord Beaumont, who died seized of it 20 Richard II. leaving it, with many other estates in this county and others, to his son and heb, Henry Lord Beaumont, then 16 years of age, who was knighted at the coronation of king Henry IV. It now consists of three farms, two of whieh belong to the heirs of the late Sir W. Blackett, of Matfen, and the other to T. W. Beaumont, Esq. At this place is a small chapel, belonging to the vicarage of Stamfordham, several cottages for labourers, and one public house. Ingo is a small village, containing two houses and about 20 cottages, mostly inha bited by colliers. One of the pits belongs to the Duke of Northumberland, and the other to Messrs. Hall and Dixon. It stands 4 mbes north-west from Stamfordham. Kearsley, a township belonging to Mr. Beaumont, and containing two farmholds and one cottage, bes between Ryal and Ingo, on the western extremity of the parish. Black Heddon lies 3 miles north of Stamfordham, and consists of two farmholds and three cottages. It is the property of Mr. Hepple. The township of Bitch- * By this marriage, the Blackett family became possessed of the manors of Halton, Whittington, and Ay- don Castle, and certain lands in Halton, Halton Sheels, Whittington, Aydon Castle, Carre Houses, Clarewood, East Matfen, and West Matfen, all in the county of Northumberland. The previous possessions of the Blacketts consisted of the manor of Horneby, in the county of York ; the manor of Sockburne, in the county of Durham ; the manors and lordships of Willimoteswick, Chesterwood, Ridley and Ridley Hall, Thorngraf- ton, Henshaw, Huntlands, Kingswood, and Melkeridge, in the county of Northumberland, and of certain lands in the said manors ; and in Dinsdale, Bishopton, the Forest of Lowes, Fallow-field, Woodhall, Winla- ton, &c. &c. The whole worth, in 1759, upwards of £5000 per annum. Vide act of parliament, passed A. D. 1759, "for carrying into execution the articles made on the marriage of Sir Edward Blackett, Bart. with Dame Ann, his wife," &c. In Spearman's MS. it is said, that Douglas, or Daglish, came from Scotland, and worked at Matfen as an agricultural labourer. He afterwards removed to Newcastle, and obtained the situation of clerk to Mr. Oley, an attorney, and finally married his master's heiress, after which he purchased Matfen of a branch of the Fenwick family. His eldest son, Oley Douglas, died, leaving one daughter and heir, wife of this Sir Edward Blackett. STAMFORDHAM PARISH. 231 field bes one mbe north-west of Black Heddon, and contains two farm-houses and a few cottages. It was the property of Roger Fenwick, second son of Sir John Fen wick, of Fenwick Tower and Wabington, and Mary his wife, daughter and heir of John Harbottle. This Roger married Ursula, daughter of Sir John Heron, of Chip chase ; but his family became extinct in 1684, when Bitchfield passed to the Delavals, and then to the Claverings, until Charles Clavering, nephew of Sir Thomas Claver ing, of Axwell, sold it to Sir Charles Monck, Bart. Wallridge, a township con taining but one house, belongs to the same proprietor. Heugh, a vibage one mile north of Stamfordham, contains two farmholds, one public house, and seven or eight cottages for labourers and mechanics. Hawkwell adjoins Stamfordham on the south, from which it is divided by the Pont. It belongs to different proprietors. Cheese burn Grange stands pleasantly on the south side of the Pont, about one mile east of Stamfordham. The mansion-house has been lately improved, and a do mestic chapel erected adjoining the hab. This manor, which belonged to Hexham priory, was the seat and estate of Gawen Swinburn, Esq. 10 queen Ebzabeth ; and of Thomas Widdrington, Esq. of Grey's Inn, 14 king Charles I. afterwards Sir Thomas Widdrington, knt. founder of Stamfordham-school (brother-in-law to Thomas Lord Fairfax), for some time recorder of York ; also Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England, 1647, with a salary annexed of £1000 per annum; speaker to the parlia ment, 1656 ; and Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, 1658. He wrote the history of York, of the MS. copy of which the ingenious and learned Mr. Drake hath given us a particular account in the preface to his history and antiquities of that city. He left four daughters and coheirs, one of whom, Mary, married Sb Robert Markham, Sedgebroke, in Nottinghamshire, Bart, descended from the famous Judge Markham, displaced for his integrity by king Edward IV. From this family the estate of Cheeseburn Grange passed in the female line to Ralph Riddell, Esq. the father of the present proprietor, Ralph Riddeb, Esq. Nesbit and Ouston, two townships that form the south-west division of the pa rish, belong to the proprietor of Cheeseburn Grange, They offer nothing worthy of remark. Fenwick is distant about 2 miles north-west of Stamfordham. The vibage contains three farmholds and five cottages. The ancient Tower, which is now totally in ruins, is situated near a small lake, now drained ; but the grounds from hence to the^ Pont are watery and fenny. From this circumstance, the villa from which the ancient proprietors took their name was cabed Fen-wick. In pulling down part of the old tower in 1775, 226 gold nobles of Edward III. Richard II. and one of David II. king of Scotland, (now in the Hunterian Museum, Glasgow) were found. The workmen who discovered them sold 107, and the remainder were delivered up to Sir W. Blackett. Fenwick Tower is admitted to have been the original seat of the ancient and vabant family of the Fenwicks. It was possessed by Thomas de Fenwick, in the reign of king Henry III. a benefactor to Hexham priory ; by Robert de Fenwick, 33 king Edward I. ; by Sir John Fenwick, 10 Edward III. He was a receiver of taxes, &c. but rebelled and fled into Scotland, having previously concealed the public treasure. 232 TINDALE WARD— N. E. D. John de Fenwick, of Fenwick Tower, was high sheriff of Northumberland, 32 king Richard II. and married Mary, the youngest daughter and coheir of Wbliam de Strother, in the reign of king Henry IV. with whom he had the estate of Walling ton, which, with this of Fenwick Tower, continued in his famby tib the beginning of the reign of king William III. (see Wallington) when Sir John Fenwick, in 1688, being encumbered with debts, the first Sir Wbbam Blackett procured him £20,000 on his estates from Mr. Guy, the founder of Guy's Hospital. For this sum, and an annuity for himself and a smaber one for his lady, he abenated the whole of his noble estates .* Sir John was a person of amiable, though dissipated manners. His high * Sir Walter Blackett, who must have possessed many of the records of this family, always considered the Fenwicks of Matfen as next in line to those of Fenwick Tower. They were seated at West Matfen from the reign of James I. to that of William III. On this account, Sir W. Blackett allowed the last heir, Robert Fenwick, who possessed a house at Stamfordham, £20 a year. On his death, his lease of lives being out, Sir John Swinburn leased it to Phillis Pinkney, but gave a good part of the fine to one Simpson, a midwife, daughter of the deceased R. Fenwick. — Spearman's MS. It has been before noted, that the chancel of Stamfordham church was erected by a Fenwick, and that several of that name have officiated there. Before closing the account of this parish, the following particulars of one of the chief branches of the Northumbrian Fenwicks must interest the reader : — Edward Fenwick, curate of Whalton, 1680, was presented by Charles II. to the vicarage of Stamford ham. He was the son of Ambrose Fenwick, son of Sir William Fenwick, of Meldon, a branch of the "knightly family" of Fenwick Tower, and a near relation of the Radclyffes of Dilston. He married a daughter of Sir Francis Liddell, of Redheugh, Gateshead, successively sheriff, alderman, and mayor of New castle upon Tyne, and son of Sir Thomas Liddell, knt. of the Ravensworth family. Sir Francis Liddell died at his son-in-law's house, the vicarage of Stamfordham, and was buried in the choir of that church, 13th Oc tober, 1702. Tradition reports him to have been a large muscular man, wearing a gold chain in many folds around his neck, which, when extended, reached the length ofthe vicarage kitchen. The "Vicar's Tomb" was opened a few years ago, and some bones of enormous size were found, which there was reason to suppose were those of Sir Francis. On the death of Sir Francis, Mr. Fenwick, in right of his wife, became possessed of Redheugh ; and, shortly afterwards, he negotiated an exchange with his relative, the Earl of Derwentwa- ter, of the Redheugh estate for the advowson of Simonburn, one of the richest and largest rectories in the kingdom. At the time of this exchange, the earl obtained possession of Redheugh ; the incumbent of the living of Simonburn being then above 90 years of age, and supposed to be dying : he, however, survived the attainder of Lord Derwentwater, and the crown seized both the Redheugh estate and the living in 1722. Mr. Fenwick had two sons: the Rev. Ambrose Fenwick, steward of the sons of the clergy in 1721, and vicar of Stamfordham on the resignation of his father ; and the Rev. Edward Fenwick, vicar of Kirkwhelp ington, 1 720. Mr. Ambrose Fenwick married Elizabeth Bradley, daughter of Mr. Bradley, of Newcastle, attorney at law, and died in January, 1 732, without issue, and was buried in Gateshead church. Mr. Ed ward Fenwick, the vicar of Kirkwhelpington, married Ann, daughter of Mr. Thomas Newton, of Hawkwell. The crown having presented Mr. Wastell to the rectory of Simonburn, Mr. Edward Fenwick, who, on the decease of his brother Ambrose, became entitled to the advowson of that living, imprudently went to law with Mr. Wastell, to oust him of it. A long and arduous contest ensued, in which the power'of the crown was brought to bear in support of Mr. Wastell. Mr. Fenwick was twice successful in his claim ; but the cause was carried into a higher court, and a verdict was given against him, on the ground that the contract between his father and Lord Derwentwater was simoniacal. The vicar of Kirkwhelpington had two sons, Edward Fenwick and Newton Fenwick, and six daughters. His case excited considerable interest in the county; but his law expences were ruinous to his fortune, and he died of a broken heart, and was buried at Stara- SIMONBURN PARISH. 233 monarchical principles and constant embarrasments led him into a conspbacy against king Wbbam III. ; but legal proof of his guilt fabing, he was condemned by parba- mentary attainder. NORTH-WEST DIVISION. SIMONBURN PARISH. This parish was the largest, and also the wbdest and most unproductive of any in the county. It extended from the Roman wab northward to Liddlesdale in Scot land, a distance of about 33 miles, and its breadth was about 14 miles, including a circumference of 103 mbes. " Between Falstone and the extreme boundary," observes Hutchinson, " is an extensive tract of country, which, till within the last century, con version had scarce reached, or the benefits of religion and the rites of the English church been promulgated, except in the collection of tithes." The bold, warlike, predatory inhabitants of North Tindale, maintained a kind of lawless independence, and continued their thieving exploits to a late period, for, in the year 1701, safety was insured by Country-keepers, to whom a. kind of protection tribute was paid,* fordham, in July, 1734. He is represented to have been an excellent man, and much beloved by his parish ioners, who gave no inconsiderable evidence of it, by their reaping their fields on the Sunday after his death, in order that his widow might have the benefit of the tithe. On his death, the neighbouring families pa tronized his children. Mr. Fenwick, of By well, took Edward, the eldest son, and brought him up, designing him for holy orders ; but he preferred to follow a trade, and was bound to Mr. Toppin, a saddler in Hexham, by indenture, dated the 9th of November, 1747, for seven years; Mr. Fenwick, of By well, joining in the indenture, as the next friend of the apprentice, and paying an apprentice-fee with him. He afterwards mar ried Mary, daughter of Mr. Robert Wilson, of Hexham ; and, with his brother, Newton Fenwick, entered into the 56th regiment of foot, and died in the hospital at Gunamaco, or on board an hospital ship, on the 4th of November, 1762, leaving a widow and two children, Edward and Robert. This branch ofthe family has been particularly unfortunate. There is reason to suppose, that the last named Edward Fenwick was entitled to the estates of the celebrated Dorothy Windsor; fbr, during his infancy, the late Sir Walter Blackett took possession of one of the estates, in trust for the infant ; but, in a fit of irritation, he surrendered it to the ultimately successful claimants. This act bore heavy on the mind of Sir Walter ; and he, in conse quence, took care of the infant, and secured a sum of money to his use, which was paid him on his attaining his majority. Edward, the eldest son of the above Edward Fenwick, like his father, learned the business of a saddler at Hexham. He married Mary, daughter of John Shield, of Catton in Allendale, and had issue John Fenwick an attorney in Newcastle, born April 14, 1787, and married June 9, 1814, Ann, daughter of the late Abra ham Rumney, master of the grammar-school, Alnwick; and Edward Fenwick, born February, 1792 and married, in March, 1822, Hannah, daughter of Ralph Eleringham, of Lintz Hall, county of Durham • be sides other four sons, that died young or without issue. * " In Northe Tyndale is but one paroche churche, called Simonsburne. In it is the aliquot sacella. Sens I hard that Simonsburne is in Sowth Tyndale, and that in Northe Tyndale is onely Belingeham chapel, long. VOL. II. 3 N 234 TINDALE WARD— N. W. D. During the late rage for agricultural improvements, many parts of this district were drained, enclosed, &e. The commons of Thorneyburn, Blackburn, Stanners* burn, Stokoe Feb, and Eabngham Rig and Shitbngton, were divided within six years time. These enclosures have had the usual effect of decreasing the number of small proprietors, or lairds, and of enlarging the estates of the great land-owners. Yet, notwithstanding these extensive divisions, not above one-tenth of the land is in tibage : the rest is mostly used as sheep-walks, on which, from a calculation made a few years ago, above 72,000 sheep are fed. But the sheep-farmers being liable to such great losses in stormy seasons, some have been recently induced to stock with Highland kyloes, or with black, Irish, and Cumberland cattle. The rents vary from below 2s. to 60*. an acre, and the farms are of very unequal extent. Some of them comprehend a large tract of country, and are above 20 miles in circumference. Coal abounds in this district, is of excellent quality, and the beds of considerable thickness. Iron mines have been wrought here in ancient times, " as appears by the heaps of scoria? of that metal, still to be seen by the road side in a plantation a little to the north of Mounces, and on the hibs to the east of Hawkhope." The face of the country varies greatly, and presents a combination of ab that is most wbd, romantic, and agreeable in mountain scenery. An act was passed in the year 1811, intituled, "An Act for erecting Five distinct Rectories and Parishes within the Rectory and Parish of Simonburn, in the County of Northumberland ; and for separating the same from the Rectory and Parish Church of Simonburn ; and for providing Parish Churches, Church-yards, and Par sonage Houses for the same ; and for restraining the Commissioners and Governors of the Royal Hospital for Seamen at Greenwich, in the County of Kent, from pre senting to the rectory of Simonburn, or the said new Rectories, any other Persons than Chaplains in the Royal Navy." Previous to the passbig of this act, this exten sive parish contained but one church, situate near its southern extremity, and the chapels of Belbngham and Falstone, the former of which was not endowed, and though the latter had lands, the revenues were smab and insufficient. At the same tune, the revenues of the rector exceeded £ 5000 per annum ; a sum amply sufficient for the maintenance of the cure of souls, as well within the five new parishes, as the residue of Simonburn parish. Agreeably to this act, the following five new parishes were erected into distinct rectories, viz. 1. Bellingham, containing the townships or quarters of Bellingham, Leemailing, the Nook, East Charlton, West Charlton, and Tarret-burn. inge to Simonsburne." — Le I. It. vol. vii. fol. 74. The " aliquot sacella," here mentioned, Hodgson conjectures to have been the chapels of Houghton Castle, Kirkfield, Falstone, and the one at Burnskirk, on the south side of Dead-Water, where some grave-stones still remain. The following is extracted from the Northumberland book of presentments, under the head Simonburn parish : — " Micha. 1681. More yn in ye former presentmt. viz. Tho. Ridley, son of Tho. Ridley, of Parkend, and Tho. Ridley, servt to Tho. White, of Holmes-haugh, for running horse-races on the Lord's-day publickly; as also Margaret, wife of James Heron, of Ninwick, for entertaining them on yt day, having musick in her house, whereby severall were kept from ye church. By John Ellet, Tho. Smith, Thomas Dod, church wardens. By Major Allgood, rector." SIMONBURN PARISH. 235 2. Wark, containing the townships or quarters of Wark, Warks Burn, Shitlington High, and Shitlington Low. 3. Thorneyburn, containing the townships or quarters of Thorneyburn and Tarsett. 4. Falstone, containing the townships or quarters of Falstone, Wellhaugh, and Plashetts. 5. Greystead, containing the townships or quarters of Smalesmouth and Chirden. The commissioners and governors of Greenwich Hospital, as required, have erected in each new parish a proper and convenient parsonage-house, to which a garden and glebe land have been attached. The expence had to be provided for from the sale of the great and smab tithes in the township of Wellhaugh.* They were also authorized and empowered to build a church for the new parishes of Wark, Greystead, and Thorneyburn, a chapel of ease at Humshaugh, and to make additions, enlargements, and improvements to the old chapels at Bellingham and Falstone, the expence of which works were directed to be paid out of the general funds of Greenwich Hospi tal. The right of presentation to the new livings was vested in the commissioners and governors of the Royal Hospital. It was further enacted, that ab the great and smab tithes (except those of Wellhaugh), and ab parochial dues, fees, donations, and emoluments, in each new parish, should belong to the rector thereof; but this pre served inviolate the rights of the then rector of Simonburn during his life. None but chaplains in the navy, who have served for ten years, or lost a limb in the service, are eligible of being rectors of Simonburn and the new rectories ; the rec tors not to hold any other preferment, nor to receive half-pay. But, by an act passed in 1820, the rectors are authorized to receive half-pay ; and the commissioners and governors of Greenwich Hospital are empowered to redeem the land-tax chargeable on the rectories. Simonburn Parish. According to the arrangements detailed in the above act (51 G. 3, c. cxciv.), this parish now consists only of the townships of Simonburn, Haughton, and Hums haugh. These townships, in 1821, contained 181 houses and 1032 inhabitants. The poor-rates, in the same year, amounted to £463, 1*. There is a school in the vblage of Simonburn, containing about 60 boys and girls, and which is partly supported by R. L. Allgood, Esq. who built the school-room. The master receives 4