YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

A GUIDE >• TO
THE LAKES, IN
CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND^
AND
LANCASHIRE,
Sy the Author of The Antiquities ofFurltefs*

For Nature here
Wanton'd as in her prime, and play'd at will
Her virgin fancies.
T|Fild above rule or art [and beauteous form'd]
A happy rural feat of various view. Paradife Lojf,

THE SEVENTH EDITION.

LONDON:
7RZMTED FOB -W. J. AND J. BICHARDSON, CORNHILLJ J ROB SON,
AMD W. CLARKE, NEW BOND STREET J AND
W, PENNINGTON, KENDAL.
x799*

PREFACE

TO

THE SECOND EDITION.

J. he fpeedy fale of the jirjl edition of this work,
has induced the publifhers to ufe their bejl endea^
vours to make the prefent one JIM more worthy of
public encouragement, by fubjecling it to fuch altera
tions and improvements as were judged neceffary to
complete its defign, — and of which it may be 'here
proper to give fome account.
The many imperfections of file and compojition.
which but too evidently appeared in the firfi im-
prejfion, are attempted to be rectified in this. Some
additional matter is introduced into the body of' the
text, and a few notes are inferted on incidental fub-
jecls, which were thought to be properly allied to
the leading one. Befides an elegant frontifpiece, an
Addenda is fubjoined, containing a collection of
feveral valuable mifcellaneous pieces which have oc~
cafionally appeared refpecting the lakes. And a
a 2 friend.

iv PREFACE.
friend of the publifhers has communicated an original.
article, called A Tour to the Caves, which it is
hoped will not only entertain, but be found particu
larly accurate as to matter of facl. — In fhort, the
publifhers have done every thing in their power to
make this Guide as complete and ufeful as its obje'cl
is curious and popular, •
Guides of every denomination fhould be well ac
quainted with the regions in which they exercife
their vocation ; and it muft be natural for the pur-
chafers of this manual to wifh to know fomething of
its author, and the. pretenfions he has to claim their
implicit confidence in the characler he afifumes. This
curiofity may now be properly indulged, as he is no
longer within the reach of either praife or cenfure :
—but what we have to fay on the fubjecl will be
very fhort.
Mr. West, late of Vlverston, author of this
tract, and alfo of the Antiquities of Furness,
is fuppofed to have had the chief part of his educa
tion on the Continent, where he afterwards prefided
as a profeffor in fome of the branches of natural phi
lofophy : whence it will appear, that though, upon
fome account or other, he had not acquired the habit
of compofing correclly in Englifh, he muft neverthelefs
have been a man of learning. He had feen mam
parts of Europe, and confidered what was extrar
ordinary in them with a curious, if not with a judi
cious and philofophic eye. Having in the latter part

PREFACE, v
pf his life much leifure time on his hands, he fre
quently accompanied genteel parties on the Tour op
the Lakes ; and after he had formed the defign of
drawing up his Guide, befides confulting the moft
efteemed writers on the fubjecl as (Dr. Brown,
Mefifrs. Grat, Tounc, Pennant, &c.J he took
feveral journies on purpofe to examine the lakes, and
to collecl fuch information concerning them, from the
neighbouring gentlemen, as he thought neceffary to
complete the work, and make it truly deferving of its
title. From thefe particulars, and the internal evi
dence of the following pages, it is prefumed the
reader will be fatisfied that the author was, in the.
mofl efifential refpecls, well qualified for his under
taking. And fhould fome of his digrefjions into an
tiquity be thought too long, or a few ' defcriptions
want precifion, and now and then a fiction be dubi-
oufly pointed out, — if, on the whole, the matter be
felecled by no uniform plan, let it be remembered,
few writers of tours have been able to avoid ble-
mifhes of this kind, and that the chief end of the
work is accomplifhed, if, along with due copioufnefs,
it be authentic in the principal articles of local in*
formation. Before the author's death (which happened very
lately* ) he had collecled fome new matter for this
trail,
* Mr. Weft died the ioth of July, 1779, at the ancient
feat of the Stricklands, at Sizergb, in Weftmorland, in the
fixty- third year of his age ; and, accprding tp his own re*
queft,

vi PREFACE.
trad, which is introduced in the prefent edition in,
the manner he defigned ; but the revifion of the
language &c. mentioned above, fell of courfe to ano-..
ther perfon ; and, in jufiice to him and the author,
it is proper to fay here in what manner it has been
executed. ' As there is fomething particular, and often pleaf
ing, in the author's firokes of defcription, and man
ner of thinking, care has been taken, all along, to
preferve his ideas as much as poffible, in his own
order, terms, and mode of confiruction. A' few
needlefs repetitions and redundancies have, indeed,
been retrenched, but little has been added which was
not neceffary to complete the fenfe. On this account,
as the work is in itfelf more of an ufeful than en
tertaining nature, it is prefumed the judicious reader
will not yet expecl elegance of language, but be fa
tisfied if, on the whole, he find it decently perfpiciious
and correct. X..
September 28, 1779,
queft, was interred in the choir, or chapel, belonging to the
Strickland family, in Kendal church.— rAs he was a man of
worth, as well as ingenuity, this further fhort memorial of
his exit will not need an apology.

ADVER-

ADVERTISEMENT

^wC TO -\:^fy .v^;,
*& , ,"o •-.- ^ SE
THIS EDITION.

f ¦'. ...
¦*iv ^fo o/" £&e fucceeding editions of this work
fuch corrections and additions have been made as
occurred, from the befi information that could be
procured, in order to make it fill more and more
complete: particular attention having ,been pdid
to the accuracy of fails, it is hoped it will now
be found very authentic and fatisfaclory.
The two views which have been feleiled to en
grave for this work may ferve to give a general
idea of the features of the country. The view of
Grafmere is in the placid rural file, with its
magnificent accompaniments, and that of Lowdore
exhibits a fpecimen of the rude grandeur of the
environs of Kefwick.
As a work of this kind is of courfe intended for
general u/e, the publifhers could not be expefted to

Missing Page

Missing Page

PACE
Penrith - - - - - ' I^3i
(ShapJ - - - - - - 169
Kendal' - - - - - - 172
(Bwton in Kendal) - - - -184
ARTICLES CONTAINED IN THE
ADDENDA.
ART.
L Dr. Brown's defcription of. the vale
and lake ofKefwick - - - 193
II. Extracl from Dr. Dalton's defcrip-
tive poem - - - *igy
III. Mr. Gray's journal of his northern
tour ----- ^99
TV. Mr. Cumberland's ode to the fun - 3.24
V. Defcription of Dunald-Mill-Hole - 229
VI. Defcription of natural curiqfities in
the edge of Torkfhire - - 231
VII. A Tour to the Caves in the Weji-
riding of Torkfhire - - 237
VIIL Further account of Furnefs. Fells, &c. 285
JX. Account of Ennerdale - - 294
X. Specimens of the Cumberland Dialed v j^g
XL Mrs. Radcliffe' s defcription of the
fernery in a ride over Skiddaw » 30c

A GUIDE.

.-.Cv~l

/ JilACK .-$ _
Comb .$ .,;/><
V^ r

Si><t//f /S/ttf -

, J. if. II
of the
LAKE §
///
Cumberland .Weftmorland
and
Lancafhirc.

T/ee Heath iU defected i/i //te (ietrWe
ewe miw&ed f/ietj
Ot&er Hotztfy tfajj

Pa<u.jw/u

lV~.'33jfafr>r./i

A
GUIL>£ TO THE LAfeES.

4&trE[CE pet&ns of genius, tafte, and obferve
• tionj began to make the tour of their own
country, and to give fuch pleafing accounts of
the natural hiftory, and improving ftate of the
northern part of thq kingdom, the fpirit of visit
ing- them has difitifed itfelf among the curious of
all ranks.
Particularly, the tafte for one branch of a no
ble art *, (cherifhed under the protection of the
greateft of kings and beft of men) in which the
genius of Britain rivals that o£ antient Greece,
and modern Rome, induces many :to vifit the
lakes of Cumberland, Weftmorland, and Lanca
shire; there to contemplate in Alpine fcenery,
finilhed in nature's higheft tintSj the paftoral
and rural landfcape, exhibited in all their ftiles,
the foft, the rude, the romantic, and the fub-
iime ; and of which perhaps like inftances can
B Kg
* Landfcape painting.

2 A GUIDE TO
no where be found aflembled in fo fmall a tract
ef country. What may be now mentioned as
another inducement to vifit thefe natural beau
ties, is the goodnefs of the roads, which are
much improved fince Mr. Gray made his
tour in 1765, and Mr. Pennant his, in 1772.
The gentlemen of thefe counties have fet a
precedent worthy of imitation in the politeft
parts of the kingdom, by opening, at private
expence, carriage roads for the eafe and fafety
of fuch as vifit the country ; and the public
roads are equally properly attended to.
The defign of the following flieets, is to en
courage the tafte of vifiting the lakes, by fur-
nifhing the traveller with a Guide j and for that
purpofe, the writer has here collected and laid
before him all the felecl: ftations and points of
view, noticed by thofe authors who have made
the tour of the lakes, verified by his own repeat
ed obfervations. He has alfo added remarks on
the principal obje&s, as they appear viewed from
the different ftations ; and fuch other incidental
information as he judged would greatly facilitate
and heighten the pleafure of the tour, and relieve
the traveller from the burthen of thofe tedious
enquiries on the road, or at the inns, which gene
rally embarrafs, and often miilead.
The local knowledge here communicated, will
not, however, injure, much lefs prevent, the
agreeable

THE LAKES, 3
agreeable furprife that attends the firft fight of
fcenes that furpafs all defcription, and of ob
jects which will always affeft the fpectator in the
higheft degree.
Such as wifh to unbend the mind from anx
ious cares or fatiguing ftudies, will meet with
agreeable relaxation in making the tour of the
lakes. Something new will open itfelf at the
turn of every mountain, and a fucceffion of
ideas will be fupported by a perpetual change
of obje&s, and a difplay of fcenes behind fcenes
in endlefs perfpective. The contemplative tra
veller will be charmed with the fight of the
fweet retreats, that he will obferve in thefe
enchanting regions of calm repofe ; and the
fanciful may figuratively review the hurry and
buftle of bufy life, in all its gradations, in the
variety of unfhaded rills that hang on the moun
tains fides, the hafty brooks that warble through
the dell, or the mighty torrents precipitating
themfelves at once with thundering noife from
tremendous rocky heights; all purfuing one
general end, their increafe in the vale, and their
union in the ocean.
Such as fpend their lives in cities, and their
time in crowds, will here meet with objects that
will enlarge the mind, by contemplation, and
raife it from nature to nature's firft caufe. Who
ever takes a walk into thefe fcenes, muft return
b 2 penetrated

4 A GUIDE TO
penetrated with a fenfe of the Creator's powef
in heaping mountains upon mountains, and en
throning rocks upon rocks. Such exhibitions?
of fublime and beautiful objects cannot but ex
cite at once both rapture and reverence.
When exercife and change of air are recomv
mended for health, the ponvalefcent will find the
latter here in the pureft ftate, and the former
will be the concomitant of the tour. The many
hills and mountains of various heights, feparated
by narrow vales, through which the air is agitated.
and hurried on, by a multiplicity of brooks and
mountain torrents, keep it in conftant circulation,
which is known to add much to its purity,- The
water is alfo as pure as the air, and on that ac
count recommends itfelf to the valetudinarian.
As there are few people, in eafy ciromjaftances,
but may find a motive for vifiting this extraoaahV
nary region, fo more efpeciaMy thofe who inteiasi
to make the continental tour fioould begin Jnere;
as it will give, in miniature, an idea of what they
are to meet with there, in traverfing the Alps
and Appenines ; to which our northern naoiMii-
tains are not inferior in beauty of line, or variety
of fummit, mmiber of lakes, and traafparency of
waier ; not in colouring of rock '-or dbftaefs of
turf; but in height and extent only. Ti»e moun
tains here are all acceffible to the {wmmh, and
farniih profpe&s no lefs furprifing, and mtib. more
variety,

THE LAKES- 5
variety, than the Alps themfelves. The tops of
the higheft Alps are inacceffible, being covered
with eteflaflang fnow, which commencing at re
gular heights above the cultivated tracts, or wooded
and verdant fides, form indeed the higheft con
trail in nature. For there may be feen all the
variety of climate in one view. To this, however,
we oppofe the fight of the ocean, from the fum-
mit of all the higher mountains, as it appears
interfected with promontories, decorated with
iflands, and animated with navigation; which
adds greatly to the perfection and variety of all
grand views.
Thofe who have traverfed the Alps, vifited the
Jake x>f Geneva, and viewed Mount Blanc, the
Jiigheft of the Glaziers, from the valley of Cha-
mounl, in Savoy, may ftill find entertainment in
this domeftk tour. To trace the analogy and
-differencies of mountainous countries, furnifhes
the obfervant traveller with amufement ; and the
travelled vifitor of the Cumbrian lakes and moun
tains, will not be difappointed of pleafure in' this
^articular *. This
* In truth a more pleafing tour than thefe lakes hold out
to men of leifure and curiofity cannot be devifed. We pe
netrate the Glaziers,traverfe the Rhone and the Rhine, whilft
•our domeftidakea of Ulh-water, Kef wick, and Windermere,
•exhibit fcenps in fo fublime a ftile, with fuch beautiful colour
ings of roek> wood, and water, backed with fo tremendous.
a difpofxtioa

6 A GUIDE TO
This Guide will alfo be of ufe to the artift who
may purpofe to copy any of thefe views and
landfcapes, by directing his choice of ftations,
and pointing out the principal objects. Yet it
is not prefumed pofitively to decide on thefe
particulars, but only to fuggeft hints, that may
be adopted or rejected at his pleafure.
The late Mr. Gray was a great judge of land
fcapes, yet whoever makes choice of his ftation
at the three mile ftone from Lancafter, on the
Hornby road, will fail in taking one of the fineft
afternoon rural views in England. The ftation
he points out is a quarter of a mile too low,
and fomewhat too much to the left. The more
advantageous ftation, as I apprehend, is on the
fouth fide of the great, or Queen's road, a little
higher than where Mr. Gray flood ; for there
the vale is in full difplay, including a longer
reach of the river, and the wheel of Lune, form
ing a high crowned ifthmus, fringed with tall
trees, that in time paft was the folitary fite of a
hermit *. A few trees preferved on purpofe by
the
a difpofition of mountains, that if they do not fairly take the
lead of all the views of Europe, yet they are indifputably
fuch as no Englifh traveller fliould leave behind him.
Mr. Cumbtrlttnd's Dedication to Mr. Romney,
* Hugh, to whom William de Lancaftre, fiicth Baron of
Kendal, gave a certain place called Afkeleros ind Croc, to
l6ok to his iifliing in tbe river Loyn for Lune.3
Bum's Weftmorland,p: 31.

THE LAKES. j
the owner, conceal the nakednefs of Caton-Moor
on the right, and render the view complete.
By company from the fouth, the lakes may
be beft vifited by beginning with Hawes-water,
and ending with Conifton-water, or, vice verfa.
Mr. Gray began his tour with Ulls-water, but
did not fee all the lakes. Mr. Pennant pro
ceeded from Conifton-water to Windermere-wa*
ter, &c. but omitted Ulls and Hawes-waters. Mr
Gray was too late in the feafon for enjoying
the beauties of profpect and rural landfcape in
a mountainous country ; for in October, the
dews lie long on the grafs in the morning, and
the clouds defcend foon in the evening, and
conceal the mountains. Mr. Pennant was too
early in the fpring, when the mountains were
mantled with fnow, and the dells were darkened
with impenetrable mill ; hence his gloomy de
fcription of the beautiful and romantic vale of
St. John, in his journey from Amblefide to
Kefwick. Flora difplays few of her charms early
in May, in a country that has been chilled by
feven winter months.
The beft feafon for vifiting the lakes is from
the beginning of June to the end of Auguft *-
During
* Thofe however who love to- fee the variety of gretn^ and
elive tints which appear in the /fringing and decaying foliage,
would be much pleafed with a fight of the lakes, either in
May or September.

8 A GUIDE T<*
During thefe months the mountains are cteokM
in all the trim of fummer vegetation-, and the
woods and trees which hang on the mountains
fides, and adorn the banks of thb lakes-, ate robed
in every variety of foliage arid fummer blbom.
In Auguft nature has given her higheft tints to
^11 her colours on the enamelled plain arid bor,
defs of the lakes. Thefe are alfo the months
favourable to botanic ftudied. Some rare plants
are thefh only to be found ; fuch as delight in Afc
pine heights, or fuch is appear in evef-fharled
dell's or globmy vales h.
The author of The fix nrdnfhs tour vifited the
Sfekes in this fine feafon, and faw them all, except
Cdniftoh and Efthwaite (bdth Lancashire fakes)
which arc on the weftefh fide of the others, aittey
fe parallel to Wmdermefe-water.
Nothing but want of information could have
btevented that curious traveller from vifiting the
whole
* Can Flora's felf recount the fhrubs and flowers,
That fcent the made, that clafp the rocky bow'rs ?
From the hard veins of faplefs marble rife
The fragrant race, and (hoot into the Ikies.
Wond'fo'us the ca"ufe ! can human fearch explore',
What vegetation lurks in e^'ry pore ?
What in the womb of diff'rent ftrata breeds ?
What fills the univerfe with genial feeds ?
Wond'rous the caufe ! and fruitlefs to gntitiirft,
Our wifer part is humbly to admire. Killamty^

the lames. 9
whole f angfe of the lakes ; which had h£ ddn€,
and defcribed their feeneiy with that accuracy
and glow of colouring he has bellowed upon the
lakes of Kefwiekj Windermere-, &c. a copy ef 'his
account would have been a fuffieieht Guide to ill
who make the fame tour.
The courfe of vifiting the lakes ftbrh Pe1&*ffih\
is by Bampton to Hawes-water, ahd from thencfe
to Ulk-water, and return to Penrith. Next, fet
out for Kefwick, feventeen miles good road.
Having feen the wonders of Kefwick and the err-
virons, depart for Ariiblefide, fixteen miles of
excellent mountain road, which afford much en
tertainment. From Amblefide ride along the fide
of Windermere-water, fix miles, tb Bowhefs;, and,
having explored the lake, either return to Am
blefide, and from thence to Hawkfhead, five
miles, or crofs Windermere-water at the horfe
ferry, to Hawkfhead, four miles. The road part
of the way is along the beautiful banks of Ef-
thwaite-water. From Hawkfhead the road is
along the fkirts of the Furnefs Appenihes, to the
head of Conifton-water, three miles, good road.
This lake ftretehes from the feet of Conifton-Felfs,
to the fbttth, fix miles. The road is on the eaf|-
ern fide, along its banks, fo Lowiek-Bridge ; froth
thence to Ulverftoh by Penny-Bridge, or by Lo-
wick-Hall, eight miles ; good carriage road every
where. From Ulverfton, by Dalton, to the ruins
$f Furnefs Abbey, fix miles. Return to Ulf er-
ftibh,

ip A GUIDE TO v
fton, from thence to Kendal, twenty-one mil*,
or to Lancafter, over the fands, twenty miles.
Thjs order of making the tour of the lakes is
the moft convenient for company coming from
the north, or over Stainmoor ; but for fuch com
pany as come by Lancafter, it will be more con
venient to begin the vifit with Conifton-water.
By this courfe, the lakes lie in an order more
agreeable to the eyej and grateful to the ima
gination. The change of fcenes is from what
is pleafing, to what is furprifing ; from the de
licate touches of Claude, verified on Coniftou
lake, to the noble fcenes of Pouffin, exhibited
on Windermere-water; and, from thefe, to the
ftupendous, romantic ideas of Salvator Rofa,
realized on the lake of Derwent.
This Guide fhall therefore take up the com
pany at, Lancafter, and attend them in the tour
to all the lakes* ; pointing out (what only can be
defcribed) the permanent features of each fcene ;
the vales, the dells, the groves, the hanging woods,
the fcattered cots, the deep mountains, the im
pending cliff, the broken ridge, &c. Their acci
dental beauties depend upon a variety of circum-
ftances ; light and fhade, the air, the winds, the
clouds, the fituation with refpect to objects, and the
* An abridged view of the tour may be feen in a table o^
the roads at the end.

THE LAKES. n
the time of the day. For though the ruling tints
be permanent, yet the green and gold of the mea
dow and vale, and the brown and purple of the
mountain, the filver grey of the rock, and the
azure hue of the cloud-topt pike, are frequently
varied in appearance, by an intermixture of reflec
tion from wandering clouds, or other bodies, or a
fudden ftream of funfhine that harmonizes all the
parts anew. The pleafure therefore arifing from
fuch fcenes is in fome fort accidental.
To render the tour more agreable, the com
pany fhould be provided with a telefcope, for
viewing the fronts and fummits of inacceffible
rocks, and the diftant country, from the tops of
the high mountains Skiddaw and Helvellyn *. The

* As deferiptions of profpe&s, greatly extended and va
riegated, are often more tedious than entertaining, perhaps
the reader will not lament, that our author has not any where
attempted to delineate a view taken from either of thefe ca
pital mountains, but rather wifli he had mewn the fame judg
ment of omilfion in fome other parts of his work. However
as an apology of the moft perfuafive kind for what may appear
either prolix, or too high-coloured, in fome of the following
deferiptions, let it be noted by the candid reader, at the
out-fet, that the lakes were his favourite objeft, and on which
he thought enough could fcarce ever be faid, and, that the de
ducing effeds of an aident paflion, are, in any cafe, eafier to
difeover in others, than to re&ify in ourfelves. X«
N. B. In this edition is given Mrs. Radcliffe's defcription
of the fcenery in a ride over Skiddaw, Addenda Article XI.

ii, A GUIDE TO
The landfcape mirror will alfo furnifh much
amufement in this tour. Where the objects are
great and near, it removes them to a due diftance,
and fhews them in the foft colours of nature, and
in the moft regular perfpective the eye can per
ceive, or fcience demonftrate.'
The mirror is of the greateft ufe in funfhine ;
and the perfon ufing it ought always to turn his
back to the object that he views. It fhould be
fufpended by the upper part of the cafe,, hold
ing it a little to the right or left (as the pofition
bf the parts to be viewed require) and the face
"fereened from the fun. A glafs of four inches, or
four inches and a half diameter, is a proper fize.
The mirror is a plano-convex glafs, and fhould
be the fegment of a large circle ; otherwife dif
tant and fmall objects are not perceived in it ;
but if the glafs be too flat, the perfpective view
bf great and near objects is lefs pleafing, as they
are reprefented too near. Thefe inconveniencies
may be provided againft by two glaffes of dif
ferent convexity. The dark glafs anfwers well
in funfhine ; but oft cloudy and gloomy days the
filver foil is better.— —Whoever ufe€ fpectacles
upbh other occafions, rmlrt ufe them in viewing
landfcapes in thefe mirrors.

LANCASTER.

the. lakes;

n

LANCASTER*.

The gateway fawar.

The caftle here is tbe nrft pbjsft that attracts
the attention of the curious traveller. The ele
vation of the fjte, and magnificence of the front,
frrike the imagination with jthe idea of a place of
much ftrenjgtlu beauty, and importance; and fuch
it has been eye* ftnce h§ foundation, on the ar*
rival of tbe Romans in thefe partjs. An eminence
©f fwiEt defce»t,, *hat commands the fc& 4>f a
.great
* (Longovicum, Notit, Imper.)

U A GUIDE TO
great tiding river, would not be neglected by fo
able a general as Agricola ; and accordingly, he
occupied the crown of this eminence in the fum
mer of his fecond campaign, and of the chriftian
aera 79, and here he erected a ftation to fecure
his conqueft and the paffes of the river, whilft he
proceeded with his army acrofs the bay of More-
cambe, into Furnefs. The ftation was called
Longovicum, and in procefs of time the inhabi
tants were called Longovices, i. e. a people dwell
ing upon the Lon or Lune. This ftation com
municated with Overborough, by exploratory
mounts (fome of them ftill remaining) on the
banks of the Lune, which alfo anfwered the pur-
pofes of guarding the fords of the river, and over
awing the natives. The mounts of Halton, Mel-
ling, and at the eaft end of the bridge of Lune,
near Hornby are ftill entire. The ftation at Lan
cafter was connected with that at Watercrook,
near Kendal, by the intervention of the' beacon on
War ton-Crag, and "the caftellum on the fummit
of a hill that rifes immediately over Water-crook,
at" prefent called Caftle-Steads.
The town that Agricola found here, belonged
to the weftern Brigantes, and in their language
was called Caer Werid, i. e. the green town.
The name is ftill retained in that part of the town
called Green-Aer, for Green-Caer ; the Britifh
conftruction being changed, and Werid tranflated
Into Englifh The

THE LAKES. i5
The green mount on which the caflle ftands,
appears to be an artefaclum of the Romans. In
digging into it a few years ago, a Roman filver
denarius was found at a great depth. The emi
nence has been furrounded with a great moat.
The prefent ftructure is generally fuppofed to
have been built by Edward III. but fome parts
of it feem to be of a higher date. There are
three ftiles of architecture very evident- in the
prefent caftle. * i . Round towers, diftant from
each other about 26 paces, and joined by a wall
and open gallery. On the weftern fide there
remain two entire, and from their diftance, and
the vifible foundation of others, it appears they
have been in number feven, and that the form
of the caflle was then a polygon. One of thefe
towers is called Adrian's Tower, probably from
fomething formerly ftanding there dedicated to
that emperor. They are two ftages high ; the
lights are narrow flits ; the hanging gallery is
fupported by a fingle row of corbels, and the
lower ftages communicate by a clofe gallery in
the wall. Each ftage was vaulted with a plain
pyramidal vault of great height. Thofe in the
more fouthern towers are entire, and called
John of Gaunt V ovens ; but the calling them
fo is as ridiculous as groundlefs.
Taillebois, baron of Kendal, is the firft aftet
the conqueft who was honoured with the com
mand
* In 1778.

i6 " * A- GUIDE TO
m4n4 of this, caftle; and William de Tailiebois,
in the reign, of Henry II, obtained leave to take
the furname of Lancafter . It is therefore proba
ble that the barons of Kendal either built of re
paired the ancient caflle, in- which, they refided,
until they ejre$ed, upori t^f fummer fite of the
ftation pf Concangium, their caflle at Kendal j
for the remains, of fome of the baftions there
agree in ,ftil,e with the towers here*
¦ %, Tbe fecond diftindt ftile of building in Lan-
G^fb|r caflle, is a fquare tqwer of great height,!
the lower pajt of \phich is of remote antiquity \
the windows; are fmall and round headed, orna-t
merited with plain fhort pillars on each fide.'
The upper part of this magnificent tower is a
modern repair: the- mafonry fhews it; and a ftone
jffi the bjlt^me^t, on the northern, fi4e, infcribed
E, R^_
1585 R A.
pcoyes that the repair was made in the time of
G^ieen Elizabeth. It is pretty evident that two
towers with the rampart, have been removed to
give light and air to the lower windows on the
outfide of the great fquare tower ; and it is joined
by a wall of communication to Adrian's Tower, that
could not be there when the other two round
tawers m&re ftanding. There are two leffer fquare
towers, on the oppofite fide of the yard or court, 3- The

THE LAKES. 17
3. The third flile of building is the front, or
gateway. This may be given to Edward III, or
to his fon John of Gaunt. It faces the eaft, and
is a magnificent building in the Gothic fliki It
opens with a noble and lofty pointed arch, de
fended by overhanging battlements, fupported by
a triple range of corbels, cut in form of boultins.
The intervals are pierced for the defcent of mi£
files, and on each fide rife two light watch-towers.
immediately over the gate is an ornamented niche}
which probably once contained the figure of the
founder. On one fide is ftill to be feen, on a
ffiield, France quartered with England ; on the
tither fide, the fame with a label ermine of three
points, the diftindtion of John of Gaunt, duke of
Lancafter, fourth fon of Edward HI, the firft
Englifh monarch that quartered France and Eng
land on a fhield.— It was Henry V that reduced
die lilies of France to three *«
On the north fide of the hill, below the church
yard, are fome remains of the wall that encom->
palled the ftation. It retains part of the ancient
name of the place, being called Wery-walL
Thofe who fuppofe it to be that part of the priory-
mclofafe-wall which was fituated on the north
fide of the church yard may be fatisfied it is not
c fo,
* Thft improvements now making in the caftle, under the
dite&ion of Mr. Harrifon, which are very extenfive, and in
&C beft ftile of Gothic architecture, will add greatly to the
fioble appearance of that ancient building.

1 8 AIGUIDE TO
fo, by viewing the part of the inclofure-wall yet
ftanding, which is a thin mouldering fabric;
whereas the Wery-wall is a cemented mafs, that
nothing but great violence can injure. Ano
ther fragment of it ftands at the flile on the
foot-path, under the weft end of the church-yard *.
It is frequently, met with in the church-yard, and
its direction is to the weftern fide of the caftle.
The father of the late William Bradfhaw, Efq. of
Halton, remembered the Wery-wall projecting
over Bridge-lane, and pointing directly to. the
river. This could never be the direction of the
priory-wall. To fay nothing of the name which
tradition has preferved, had Mr. Pennant viewed
both, he would not have doubted a moment to
join Camden againft Leland. At Bridge-lane this
wall makes an angle, and runs along the brow of
the hill, behind the houfes, in a line to Church-
ftreet, which it croffes about Covell-crofs. This
is attefted by the owners of the gardens, who
have met with it in that direction, and always
found blue clay under the foundation ftones.
Though the ftation was one of the firft which
the Romans had in thefe parts, and, from its im
portance, the laft they abandoned, yet, buLfew.
Roman-Britifh remains have been difcovered at it.
The Caledonians, the unconquered enemies and
greateft plague of the Romans in Britain, were
particularly
This has been lately dcftroyed.

THE LAKES. i9
particularly galled and offended with the garrifon
at Lancafter, it being always the firft to oppofe
them, as often as they invaded the empire, by croft
ing the Solway-firth. For,, having taken the ad
vantage of the fpring-tides, and the darknefs of the
nights at the change of the moon, they efcaped
the garrifon at Virofidium, Ellenborough, Arbeia*
and Morefby ; and ikulking along the Cumber
land coaft, they crofted the Morecambe-bay, and
were firft difcovered on the banks of the Lune.
Here they were oppofed by the townfmen, who
kept the garrifon ; and if they did not return by
the way they came, the alarm brought upon them
the garrifons of Overborough, Watercrook, and
Amblefide, who furrounded and cut them off.
Hence arofe a particular hatred to the Lancaftri-
ans, which time and repeated injuries fomented
into rage. In the end, the barbarous clans, fol
lowing clofe upon the heels of the flying Romans,
in a particular manner fatiated their defire of re
venge upon the helplefs Lancastrians, by facking
and deftroying their town and fortifications, in
order that they might at no future time oppofe
their invafions. The Saxons arriving foon after
raifed on thefe ruins the town that remains to
this day. Hence it may be inferred, that the
prefent town of Lancafter flands on a magazine
of Roman-Britifh antiquities ; and this is often
verified by digging under ancient houfes, where
Roman remains are frequently found, and where
it appears that the earth has been removed. 
c 2 Befide

20 A GUIDE TO
Befide what Dr. Leigh mentions, there are many
recent inftances that prove the conjedture.
In the year 1772, in digging a cellar, where an
old houfe had flood, in a ftreet or lane called
Pudding-lane (almoft in the centre of the town),
there was found, reverfed in a bed of fine fand,
above five feet underground, a fquare infcribed
ftone, of four feet by two and a half dimenfions.
A foot and two inches were broken off the lower
corner on -the right hand fide, fo as to render the
infcription obfcure, but the remaining letters were
very evident elegantly formed, fquare, and about
three inches high. The infcription had confifted of
eight or nine lines, of which fix are entire and of
eafy explanation ; the lofs in the feventh is readily
fupplied ; but the eighth muft be made out by the
common flile of fuch votive flones. The elegance
of the characters pronounces them to be the work
of the beft times ; but the two fmall letters in the
third and fifth lines reduce it to the age of the
Emperor Gordian ; and if the three fmall letters
have been occafioned by the omiffion of the fculp-
tor, then it will be of higher antiquity; It is
known by infcriptions found at Olenacum (old
Carlifle) that the Auguftan wing mentioned on
this tablet was flationed there in the time of Gor
dian ; and now from this infcription, it feems alfo
to have been at Lancafter. This memorable ftone
was in the rare collection of Sir Afhton Lever, Knt.
A few

THE LAKES. 21
A few years ago, in finking a cellar in an old
houfe in Church-ftreet, great quantities of frag
ments of Roman eathern-ware were thrown out,
urns, pateras, &c. many of them finely glazed, and
elegantly marked with emblematic figures. Alfo
fome copper coins were found, and an entire lamp,
with a turned-up perforated handle to hang it by,
the nozle of which was black, from ufe. At the
depth of two yards were likewife difcovered a great
number of human bones, with burned afhes, a
wall of great thicknefs, and a well filled with rub-
bifh of the fame kind, probably leading to a vault
where other human remains were depofited ; but
the curious muft for ever regret that no further
fearch was made into its ufe and contents.
What throws new light upon the ftation here is
the late difcovery of a Roman pottery^ at Quar-
moor, near Lancafter. That thefe works have
been very confiderable, may be fuppofed from the
fpace difcOloured with broken ware, the holes from
whence the clay has been taken, and the great
variety of bricks, tiles, and veffels that are found
about them. But the greateft difcovery is gather
ed from a tile with turned up edges, impreffed on
each end with the words Ale Sebufia, which points
out a wing of cavalry not heard of before. The
fame infcription is found on bricks, the label fmall-
er, and the letters Ala Sebufia. The fhape of the
fecond letter in the firft word is like that in the
infcription on the rock near Brampton, in Cum
berland,

22 A GUIDE TO
berland, fuppofed to have been cut in the time of
the Emperor Severus, A. D. 207, and is>the fifth
L in Horfley's Alphabet. On the brick the letters
are fquare, from which it may be inferred that
this wing was long flationed at Lancafter.
This town, ever fince the conqueft, has been
renowned fos loyalty, and attachment to eftablifh
ed government ; for which King John honoured
it with as ample a charter as he had conferred
on the burgeffes of Briftol and Northampton.
Charles II confirmed it, with additional privileges,
But Lancafter derived its greateft luftre and import
ance, from the title it gave to Edmund, fecond fon
of Henry III, and to his iffue, Dukes of Lancafter,
and Kings of England, of the Lancaftrian line.
In the end however, it fuffered much by fupporting
their title to the crown, in the conteft with the
houfe of York. And fo little had it retrieved it
felf when Camden vifited it, in 1609, that he
fpeaks of it as not populous, and that the inhabi
tants were all hufbandmen, Since that time it is,
however, much enlarged *. The new houfes are pe*
culiarly
* The town ftill continues to encreafe, A fquare and
feveral additional ftreets are now building. It has alfq
been lately ornamented with a new town-hall, or exchange
efteemed a handfome building, with a noble portico. An
elegant fteeple has been alfo lately built to the chapel (after
a defign of Mr. Harrifon).by a donation of the late Mr. T.
Bowes, which, with the turret on the exchange, add much to.

THE LAKES. ^
culiarly neat and handfome ; the ftreets are wel1
paved, and thronged with inhabitants, bufied in a
profperous trade to the Weft-Indies, and other
places. Along a fine quay, noble ware-houfes
are built. And when it fhall pleafe thofe concern
ed, to deepen the fhoals in the river, fhips of
great burthen may lie before them ; for at prefent
we only fee, in that part of the river, fuch as do
not exceed 250 tons.
The air of Lancafter is falubrious, the environs
pleafant, the inhabitants wealthy, courteous, hof-
pitable, and polite. The church' is a handfome
Gothic ftrudture ; but the infide view of the beau
tiful eaft window is obftrudted by a tall fkreen
behind the altar, andthe reft of the church is fur
ther hurt by a multiplicity of pews. The only
remains it has of ancient furniture are a few turn
up feats, carved in the ftile of the times when it
"belonged to the priory of St. Martin of Sayes, in
France. Some of the carvings are fine, but the
figures are either grofs or grotefque. This build
ing ftands on the crown of an eminence, below
the caftle, from which it is only feparated by the
moat. The views from the church-yard are ex-
tenfive and pleafant, particularly the grand and
much admired profpects of the northern raoun tains.
to the pleafing, or rather ftriking appearance this town ha&
at a diftance, on account of the caftle, church, and the con
spicuous fituation of feveral good ftone houfes.

24 A GUIDE TO
tains. The chapel is a neat and convenient place
of worfhip. There are alfo in this town prefbi-
terian, quaker, and methodift, meeting houfes, and
a Romifh chapel. When the prefent incommbdi-
ous bridge was lately repaired, fome brafs pieces
of money were met with under a foundation
ftone, from which it was conjectured to be of"
Danifh origin. A more ancient bridge flood high-!
er up the river, at Skerton town end ; an eligible
fituation for a new one, which would make a fine
and convenient entrance into Lanqafter, from the
north, and which at prefent on many accounts it
touch wants *. Before
* A new bridge has lately been ere£ted on the lite above
pointed out. It is built after a defign of Mr. Harrifon, con-
fifts of five equal elliptical arches, and is 549 feet long.
The expence of the eredtion, which was paid by the county,
amounted to 14090/. It is one of the handfomeft bridges
of its fize in Europe, and does honour to the tafte of the
architect, and to the public fpirit of thofe who promoted the
work on fo liberal a plan.
Ia the year 1792 an a& was obtained, chiefly promoted
by the inhabitants of Lancafter, for making a navigable ca
nal, from Kendal, by way of Lancafter and Prefton, to go
through the great coal countries in the neighbonrhood of
Chorley and Wigan, and to join the canals in the fouth of
Lancafliire, its principal defign being for the carriage of lime-
¦ ftone and flate from the north, and to return with coals. It
is now completed from Burton to Prefton, and is carried over
the river Lune by the largeft aqueduct in the kingdom,
which is an amazing grand object, and is feen to advantage
front Lancafter. bridge, about two miles ofl\

THE LAKES. a5
Before you leave Lancafter, take a ride to the
third rnUe-ftohe on the road to Hornby, and there
have Mr, Gray's noble view of the vale of Lonf-
dale, which he, or his editor defcribes in thefe
words, in the note, page 373 of his life. " This
fcene opens juft three miles from Lancafter, on
what is called the Queen's road. To fee the view
in perfection you muft go into a field on the
left*. Here Ingleborough, behind a variety of
Jeffer mountains, makes the back ground of the
profpect ; on each hand of the middle diftance
rife two floping hills, the left clothed with thick
wood, the right with variegated rock and herb
age. Between them, in the richeft of valleys^
the Lune ferpentizes for many a mile, and comes
forth ample and clear through a well wooded and
richly paftured foreground. Every feature which
conflitutes a perfedt landfcape of the extenfive
fort is here not only boldly marked, but alfo in
its beft pofition." .
From Lancafter to Heft-bank, three miles ; fet
out with the Ulverfton carriers at the ftaied hour,
or take a guide for the fands that fucceed, called
Lancafter

* As feveral miftakes have been made refpecting this fta^
tion, it is neceffary to point it out more precifely. About
a- quarter of a mile beyond the third mileftone, whert the
road makes a turn to the right, there is a gate on the left,
which leads into a field, where the ftation meant will be
found*

26 A GUIDE TO
Lancafter Sands *, and which are 9 miles over f.
On a fine day there is not a more pleafant fea-fide ride
* (Morecombe, Ptol.)
f Along with the proper guides, crofting of the fands in
fummer is thought a journey of little more danger than any
other. But thofe who wifh to evade them may eafiiygo,
in one day, round to Ulverfton, by the head of the aeftuary.
The roads are in general very good, the ride about 37 miles,
and not wanting in the natural variety peculiar to the coun
try. [The route will be thus. — From Lancafter, to Bur
ton 11 miles. (There obferve Mr Atkinfon's neat houfe
of freeftone.) The old venerable building on the right hand
of the road, about two miles fhort of Burton, is Borwick-
hall, formerly the refidence of Sir Robert Bindlofs, but now
only a farmboufe. From thence to Millthorp 4 miles.
(There fee Dallam-Tower, the feat of Daniel Wilfon', Efq.
in which there are feveral elegancies, and more capabilities.
Alfo fee a bold water-fall of the river at Beetham-mill).
From Millthorp to Levens (an ancient feat of the late Eail
of Suffolk, where a curious fpecimen of the old ftile of gar
dening may be feen, as laid out by the gardener of King
James II) 2 miles. From thence to the nearer end of the
Long-caufeway at Beathwaite-green 1 mile. Thence to the
Black-bull in Witherflack 3 miles (which takes you by the
foot of Whitbarrow-fcar, a remarkable precipice of limeftone
rock, formed in feveral places like a fortreTs). Thence
to Newton (over the hill Tawtup) 4 miles. Thence to
Newby-bridge 3 miles, which is fituated at the lower end of
Windermere-water. From thence to Bouth, on the com
mon turnpike, 3 miles. But it might be "worth while to go
a little out of the way, through a valley on the left hand, by
Backbarrow and Low-wood mills, which are very roman
tically fituated). From Bouth to Penny-bridge 2 miles
which there brings you into the trad of the toar by Ulver
fton, now only 4 miles diftant. If,

THE LAKES. 27
ride in the kingdom. On the right, a bold fhore,
deeply indented in fome places, and opening into
bays in others ; valleys- that ftretch far into the
.country, bounded on each fide by hanging grounds,
cut into inclofures, interfperfed with groves and
woods, adorned with fequeftered cots, farms, villa
ges, churches, and caftles ; mountains behind
mountains, and others again juft feen over them,
clofe the fore fcene. Claude has not introduced
Soradte on the Tyber in a more happy point of
view than Ingleborough appears in during the
courfe of this ride. At entering on the fands, to the
left, Heyfham-point rifes abruptly, and the village
hangs on its fide in a beautiful manner. Over a
vaft extent of fands Peel-caftle, the ancient bul
wark of the bay, rears its venerable head above
the tide. In front appears a fine fweep of coun
try Hoping to the fouth. To the right, Warton-
cragg prefents itfelf in a bold ftile. On its arched
fummit are the veftiges of a fquare encampment,
and the ruins of a beacon. Grounds bearing
from the eye for many a mile, variegated in every
pleafing form, by woods, and rocks, are terminat ed
If, on account of getting poll chaifes, &c. it be thought
more convenient to go by Kendal to Ulverfton, the journey
will be about 7 miles more, all good turnpike road. From
Burton (where the two roads part) to Kendalls 11 miles,
and from Kendal to the above-named Newby-biidge (where
they meet again) is about 13 miles. — This latter ftagc,
which is mountainous and uneven, affords great variety of
prefpects.

28 A GUIDE TO
ed by cloud-topt Ingleborough. A littld further,
on the fame hand, another vale opens to the fands
and fhews a broken ridge of rocks, and beyond
them, groups of mountains towering to tbe fky.
Caflle-fteads, a pyramidal hill, that rifes above the
ftation at Kendal, is now in fight. At the bottom
of the bay, flands Arnfide-tower, once a manfion
of the Stanleys. The Cartmel coaft, now as you
advance, becomes more pleafing. Betwixt that
and Silverdale-Nab (a mountain of naked grey
rbck) is a great break in the coaft, and through the
opening, the river Kent rolls its waters to join the
tide. In the mouth of the aftuary are two beau
tiful Conical ifles, clothed with wood and fweet
Verdure. As you advance toward them they feem
to change their pofition, and hence often vary their
appearance. At the fame time a grand view opens
of the Weftmorland mountains, tumbled about in
a moft furprifing manner. At the head of the
aefluary, under a beautiful green hill, Heverfham
village and church appear in fine perfpective. To
the north, Whitbarrow-fcar, a huge arched and
bended cliff, of an immenfe height, fhews its ftorm
beaten front * The intermediate fpace is a mix
ture of rocks, and woods, and cultivated patches, that
* A little to the left of Whitbarrow is Caftle-head, where
an elegant houfe ha's lately been erected by John Wilkinfofl,
Efq> The fite is fomething curious, and the owner has
made great improvements in the grounds about it— The
houfe is feen to advantage1 as you crofs the fands; and greatly
enlivens the part of the coaft where it is fituated.

THE LAKES. 29
that form a romantic view *. At the fide of the
Eau t, or river of the fands, a guide on horfeback
called the carter, is in waiting to conduct paffen* gers
* The above defcription of this curious and pleafing ride
is, as far as it goes, juft, but not characteriftic. Whai moft
attracts the notice of the traveller is not the objects of the
furrounding country (though they are fine) but the fands
themfelves. For when he has got a few miles from the fhore
the nature of the plain on which he treads, cannot but fug
ged a feries of ideas of a more fublime kind than thofe of
rural elegance, and which will therefore gain a fuperior at
tention. The plain is then feemingly immenfe in extent,
continued on in a dead level, and uniform in appearance.
As he purfues his often-tracllefs way, he will recollect, that
probably but a few hours before, the whole expanfe was
covered with fome fathoms of water, and that in a few more
it will as certainly be covered again. At the fame time he
may alfo perceive, on his left hand, the retreated ocean ready
to obey the myfterious laws of its irrefiftible movement,
without any vifible barrier to flay it a moment where it is.
Thefe laft confidetations, though they may not be fufficient
to alarm, muft yet be able to roufe the mind to a ftate of
more than ordinary attention ; which co-operating with the
other lingular ideas of the profpect, muft affect it in a very
fublime and unufual manner. This the bare appearance of
the fands will do. ' But when the traveller reaches the fide
of the Eau, thefe affections will be greatly, increafed. He
there drops down a gentle defcent to the edge of a broad
and feemingly irapaffable river, where the only remains he
can perceive of the furrounding lands are the tops of diftant
mountains, and where a folitary being on horfeback (like
fome ancient genius of the deep) is defcribed hovering on its
brink, or encountering its ftream with gentle fteps, in order
to conduft him through it* When fairly entered into the
water,

30 A GUIDE TO
gers over the ford. The priory of Cartmei wasr
charged with this important office and had fyno-
dals and peter-pence allowed towards its mainte nance.
water, if a ftranger to this fcene, and he do not feel himfelf
touched with fome, of the moft pleafing emotions, I fliould
think him deftitute of common fenfibility. For, in the midft
of apparently great danger, he will foon find that there is
really none at all ; and the complacency which muft natu
rally refult from this confideration, will be heightened to an
unufual degree, by obferving, during his paflage, the anxious
and faithful inftinct of his beaft ; and the friendly behaviour
and afpect of his guide. All the fervors of grateful thank-
fulnefs will then be taifed, and if with the ufual perquifite to
his venerable conductor, he can forget to convey his bleffing,
who would not conclude him to want one efTential requifite
for properly enjoying the tour of the lakes I
Having crofted the river, the ftranger traveller (whom
we will fuppofe at length freed from any petty anxiety)
will now have more inclination to furvey the objects around
him. The feveral particulars peculiar to an arm of the
fea (as tifhermen, fhips, fea-fowl, fhells, weeds, &c. ) will
attract his notice and new-model his reflections. But if
the fun thine forcibly, he will perhaps be moft entertained
with obferving the little gay ifles and promontories of land,
that feem to hover in the air, or fwim on a luminous va
pour, that rifes from the fand, and fluctuates beautifully
on its furface.
In fliort, on a fine fummer Jay, a ride acrofs this stftuary
(and that of Leven mentioned a little further on) to a
fpeoulative ftranger (or to any one who is habituated to
confider the charms »f nature abf?ra3edly) will afford a va
riety of moft entertaining ideas. Indeed, the objects here
prefented

THE LAKES. 31
nance. Since the diffolution of the priory, it is
held by patent of the dutchy of Lancafter, and the
falary, twenty pounds per annum, is paid by the
receiver-general. Cartmei is a fmall diftridt belonging to Lanca-
fhire, but united to Weftmorland a little below
Bownefs, on Windermere-water, from whence it
extends itfelf betwixt the rivers Leven and Kent,
and fo interfects the great bay of Morecambe. It
is three miles acrofs from Cark-lane, where you
quit the fands, to Sand-gate. Pafs through Flooki
burgh *, once a market town, by charter granted to
prefented to the eye are feveral of them io'Uke in kind to
what will frequently occur in the tour of the lakes, fome of
them are fo much more magnificent from extent, and others
fo truly peculiar, that it feems rather furprifing that this
journey fhould not often be confidered by travellers from
the fouth, as one of the firft curiofities of the tour, in beauty
as well as fn occurrence. And if the reader of this note be
of a philofophic turn, this queftion may perhaps here offer
itfelf to him, and to which it is apprehended he may found
a fatisfactory anfwer on very evident principles ; viz. " Why
a view fo circumftanced as this, and, when taken from the
fhore at full fea,_/o very like a lake of greater apparent extent
than any in the kingdom, fhould never be brought into
comparifon with the lakes to be vifited afterwards,- and ge
nerally fail to ftrike the mind with images of any peculiar
beauty or grandeur ?"
f Pronounced commonly Eea'.
* Near this place is a noted fpaw,. called the Holywell, found

32 A GUIDE TO
to the prior of Cartmei, lord paramount, from'
King Edward I. The only thing worthy of notice
in Cartmei is the church, a handfome Gothic
edifice. The large eaft window1* is finely ribbed
with pointed arches, light and elegant; but the
painted glafs is almoft all deftroyed. The pre-
fervation of this edifice refledts honour on the me
mory of George Prefton, Efq, of Holker, who, at
his own expence, new roofed the whole, and de
corated the infide with a flucco deling. The
choir and chancel he alfo repaired, fuiting the new
parts to the old remains of the canons feats, and
thereby giving them their ancient uniform appear
ance. Perfons uninformed of this, always take it
to be the fame it was before the diffolution. The
ftile of the building, like moft of its contempora
ries, is irregular- The form is a crofs, in length
157 feet; the tranfept no feet; the height of
the walls 57 feet. The tower on the centre is of
a Angular conftrudtion, being a fquare within a
fquare, the higher fet at crofs-angles with the
lower. This gives it an odd appearance on all
fides, but may have fome reference to the octa
gonal
found to be of great fervice in moft cutaneous diforders, and
much reforted to in the fummer feafon from diftant parts.
It is an eafy cathartic, reftores loft appetite, and fully an
fwers the ancient poetic defcription of a fountain,
" Infirmo capitijtuit utilis, utilis aho. "
* The dimSnfions are 24 feet wide and 48 high. The
great eaft window of York-minfter meafures 32 by 75 feet-

THE LAKES. 33
gonal pillars in the church, and both to the
memory of fomething now forgotten. According
to fome accounts, it was built and endowed with
the manor of Cartmei, by William Marifchal the
elder, Earl of Pembroke, in 1188, but as in the
foundation deed mention is made of Henry II, —
Richard, — and Henry the younger, his lord the
King, it appears rather to have been founded in
the beginning of that reign ; for William the
elder, Earl of Pembroke, died in the fourth or
fifth year of the reign of Henry III. He gave it,
never to be erected into an abbey, to the canons
regular of St. Auftin, referving to himfelf and his
heirs the right of granting them the conge d'elire
of a prior, who fhould be independent of all others.
Under the north wall, a little below the altar, is
the tomb-ftone of William de Walton, prior of
Cartmei. He is mentioned iii the confirmation
diploma of Edward II, and muft have been one of
the firft priors. Oppofite to this, is a magnificent
tomb of a Harrington and his lady, which Mr.
Pennant thinks may be of Sir John Harrington,
who in 1305, was fummoned by Edward I, " with
numbers of other gallant gentlemen, to meet
him at Carlifle, and attend him on his expedition
into Scotland." But it agrees better with a John
de Harrington, called John of Cartmei, or his
fon, of Wrafhholme-tower, in Cartmei, as Sir
Daniel Fleming's account of that family has it,
M. S. L. A. 1 . 1 32. The head of the Harrington
family, Sir John Harrington, in the reign of
D Edward

34 A GUIDE TO
Edward I, was of Aldingham, and lived at Glea-
fton-caftle, in Furnefs, and died in an advanced
age, in 1347 ; and is more probably the Sir John
Harrington mentioned in Dugdale's baronage,
and faid, as above, to be fummoned by Edward I.
There is not one ^eftige of the monaftery remain
ing. There is indeed an ancient gate-houfe, but
whether this was connected with the cloifters or
not tradition is filent, and its diftance from the
church is unfavourable to the conjedture.
Proceed through rocky fields and groves to
Holker, one mile, the feat of the right honourable
Lord George CavCndifh *. The carriage road is
by Cark-hall. At the top of the hill there opens
a fine view of Furnefs. Holker-hall lies at your
feet, embofomed in wood. On the left, Ulver-
fton bay opens into the great bay, and is three
miles over. The coaft is deeply indented, and
the peninfulas are beautifully fringed with wood.
On the right, a bold bending rock prefents a noble
arched forehead ; and a fine flope of inclofed
grounds, mixed with wood, leads the eye to Ul-
verfton, the port and mart of Furnefs. Conifhead
fhews its pyramidal head, completely clothed in
woods. At its feet is the Priory, fhielded by a wing
of hanging wood, that climbs up the fide of a
fleep hill. Bardfea, under its rocks and hanging
woods, ftands in a delightful point of view. In
front, a fweet fall of inclofures, marked with
clumps
* Now of Lord Frederick Cavendifh.

THE LAKES. 35
clumps of trees and hedge-rows, gives it a moft
pidturefque effect. Alfo A white houfe on the fea
bank, under the cover bf A deep wood, has a moft
inchanting appearance. The coaft from thence is
of^fingular beauty, confifting of hanging wood,
inclofed lands, and pafture grounds, varied through
a great "extent of profpect, in every pleafing form.
Defcend to Holker, which adds to the furround-
ing fcenes what is peculiar to itfelf, joined to the
improvements of the noble owner, finifhed in a
mafterly ftile *. The traveller will here obferve
hufbandry in a more flourifhing fituation than in
the country he is foon to vifit. The hufbandmen
in this part, as elfewhere, are flow in imitating
new practices ; but the continued fuccefs which
attends his lordfhip's improvements, has not failed
to effect a reformation amongft the Cartmei
farmers. In crofting Leven-fands, to Ulverfton, you have
on the right, a grand view of Alpine fcenery. A
rocky hill patched with wood and heath; riling
d 2 immediately
* The connoiffeur in painting may here have the pleafure
of feeing a good collection of pictures ; amongft which are,
by Claude Lorrain, a very capital landfcape, exhibiting a
view of the Tiber, with the temple of Apollo, the nine mu-
fes, &c. another reprefcnting the departure out of Egypt,
and two more fmall views. Alfo a large landfcape by Ru
bens ; two fine church pieces by B. Neefs (the figures by
Elfhamer) ; and feveral others b^ Woverman, Hobina, Te-
niers, Swanevelt, Zuccarelfi, Ryfdal, and other eminent
mafters.

36 A GUIDE TO
immediately from the coaft, diredts the eye to an
immenfe chain of lofty mountains, apparently in-
creafed in magnitude and height fince they were
feen from Heft-bank. On a fine morning this is
a pleafant ride, when the mountains are ftrongly
illuminated by the fun-beams, and patched with
fhadows of intervening clouds that fail along their
fides ; or when they drag their watery fkirts over
the fummits, and admitting the ftreaming beams,
adorn their rocky heads wkh filver, and variegate
their olive-coloured fides with ftripes of gold and
green. This fairy fcene foon fhifting, all is con
cealed in a mantle of azure mift. At the Eau, or
ford of the river Leven, another carter conducts
you over. On the diffolution of the priory of Co
nifhead, King Henry VIII charged himfelf and his
fuceffors with the payment of the falary, fifteen
marks per annum, which the guide received from
the priory.
Ulverfton, the London of Furnefs, is a neat
town, at the foot of a fwift defcent of hills to the
fouth-eaft. The ftreets are regular, and excel
lently well paved. The weekly market for Low-
Furnefs has been long eftablifhed here, to the pre
judice of Dalton, the ancient capital of Furnefs.
The articles of export are, iron-ore in great quan
tities, pig and bar iron, oats, barley, beans, pota
toes, bark, and limeftone. The principal inns are
kept by the guides, who regularly pafs to and
from Lancafter, on Sunday, Tuefday, and Friday,
in every week. Make

THE LAKES. 37
Make an excurfion to the weft, three miles,
and vifit the greateft iron-mines in England. At
Whitrigs the works are carried on with much
fpirit, by driving of levels into the bofom of the
mountain. The ore is found in a limeftone
ftratum mixed with a variety of fpars of a dirty
colour. There is much quartz in fome of the
works, that admits of a high polifh. At prefent
the works in Stone-clofe and Adgarly are the
moft flourifhing that have been known in Furnefs.
This mineral is not hurtful to any animal or vege
table. The verdure is remarkably fine about the
workings, and no one ever fuffered by drinking
the water in the mines, though difcoloured and
much impregnated with the ore.
Proceed by Dalton to the magnificent ruins of
Furnefs Abbey, and there
" See the wild wafte of all devouring years,
How Rome her own fad fepulchre appears.
With nodding arches, broken temples fpread,
The very tombs now vanifh like the dead. "
This abbey was founded by Stephen Earl of
Mortaign and Boulogne, afterwards King of
England, A. D. n 27, and was endowed with the
lordfhip of Furnefs, and many royal privileges.
It was peopled from the monaftery of Savigny in
Normandy, and dedicated to St. Mary. In an
cient writings it is filled 5/. May re's of Furnefs.
The monks were of the order of Savigny, and
their

38 A GUIDE TO
their drefs was grey cloth ; but on receiving St«
Bernard's form, they changed from grey to white,
and became Ciftercians ; and fuch they remained
till the diffolution of the monafteries.
The fituation of this abbey, fo favourable to a
contemplative life, juftifies the choice of the firft
fettlers. Such a fequeftered fite, in the bottom of
a deep dell, through which a hafty brook rolls its
murmuring ftream, and along which the roaring
weft wind would often blow, joined with the deep-
toned matin fong, muft have been very favourable
to the folemn melancholy of a monaftic life.
To prevent furprife, and call in affiftance, a
beacon was placed on the crown of an eminence
that rifes immediately from the abbey, and is feen
over all Low-Furnefs. The door leading to the
beacon is ftill remaining in the inclofure-wall, on
the eaftern fide. The magnitude of the abbey
may be known from the dimenfions of the ruins ;
and enough is ftanding to fhew the ftile of the ar
chitecture. The round and pointed arches occur
i.i the doors and windows. The fine cluftered
Goi.hic and the heavy plain Saxon pillars ftand
contrafted. The walls fhew excellent mafonry,
are in many places counter-arched, and the ruins
difeover a ftrong cement. The eaft window has
been noble ; and fome of the painted glafs that
once adorned it is preferved in a window in Win
dermere church. On the outfide of the window, under

THE LAKES. 39
¦under an arched feftoon, is the head of the,
founder, and oppofite to it that of Maud his
queen, both crowned, and well executed. In the
fouth wall, and eaft end of the church, are four
feats, -adorned with Gothic ornaments. In thefe
the officiating prieft, with his attendants, fat at
intervals during the folemn fervice of high mafs.
In the middle fpace, where the firft barons of
Kendal are interred, lies a procumbent figure of a
man in armour, crofs legged. The chapter-houfe
has been a noble room of fixty feet by forty-five.
The vaulted roof, formed of twelve ribbed arches,
was fupported by fix pillars in two rows, at thir
teen feet diftance from each other. Now, fuppof-
ing each of the pillars to be two feet in diameter,
the room would be divided into three alleys, or
paffages, each thirteen feet wide. On entrance,
the middle one only could be feen, lighted by a
pair of tall pointed windows at the upper end of
the room ; the company in the fide paflage would
be concealed by the pillars, and the vaulted roof,
that groined from thofe pillars, would have a truly
Gothic difproportionate appearance of fixty feet
by thirteen. The two fide alleys were lighted
each by a pair of fimilar lights, befides another
pair at the upper end, at prefent entire, and which
illuftrate what is here faid. Thus, whilft the up
per end of the room had a profufion of light, the
lower end would be in the fhade. The noble roof
of this lingular edifice did but lately fall in, and
the entrance or porch is ftill ftanding, a fine cir
cular

40 , A GUIDE TO
cular arch, beautified with a deep cornice, and a
portico on each fide. The only entire roof now
remaining, is of a building without the inclofure-
wall. It was the fchool-houfe of the abbot's
tenants, and is a fingle ribbed arch that groins from
the walls.
There is a general difproportion remarkable in
Gothic churches, which muft have originated in
fome effedt intended by all the architects ; perhaps
to ftrike the mind with reverential awe at the
fight of magnificence arifing from the vaftnefs of
two dimenfions, and a third feemingly difregarded;
or, perhaps fuch a determinate height and length
was found more favourable than any other to the
church fong, by giving a deeper fwell to the choir
of chaunting monks. A remarkable deformity in
this edifice, and for which there is no apparent
reafon or neceffity, is, that the north door, which
is the principal entrance, is on one fide of the
window above it. The tower has been fupported
by four magnificent arches, of which only one
remains entire. They refted upon four tall pillars,
whereof three are finely cluftered, but the fourth
is of a plain unmeaning conftrudtion.
From the abbey, if on horfeback, return by
Newton, Stainton, and Adgarly. See on the
right a deep embayed coaft, the iflands of Wal-
ney and Foulney, Peel-Caftle, and a variety of
extenfive views on all fides. At Adgarly the
new

THE LAKES. M
new iron ore works are carried on under the old
workings. The richeft ore is found here in imr
menfe quantities : one hundred and forty tons
have been raifed at one fhaft in twenty four hours.
To the right, you have a view of the ruins of
Gleafton-Caflle, the feat of the Flemings foon
after the conqueft: which, by a fucceffion of mar
riages, went to Cansfield, then to Harrington, who
enjoyed it fix defcents ; . after that to Bonville, and
laftly to Gray ; and was forfeited by Henry Gray,
Duke of Suffolk, A. D. 1559. Leaving Urfwick
behind, afcend Birkrig, a rocky eminence, and
from the beacon have a variety of extenfive and
pleafant views, of land and fea, mountains and
iflands. Ulverfton appears to the north-eaft, feat
ed under a hanging wood, and beyond that,
Furnefs-Fells, in various fhapes, form. the .grandeft
termination that can be imagined. The back
view is the reverie of this. When the tide[is up,
you fee a fine arm of the fea flretching far within
land, terminated by bold rocks and fleep fhores.
Beyond this expanfe, a far country is feen, and
Lancafter town and caftle, in a fine point ofview,
under a fcreen of high grounds, over which fable
Clougha rears his venerable head. Ingleborough,
behind many other mountains, has a fine effect
from this ftation. If in a carriage, return from the
abbey by Dalton. This village is finely fituated
on the creft of a rocky eminence, Hoping to the
morning fun. At the upper end is a fquare
tower, where formerly the abbot held his fecular court,

42 A GUIDE TO
court, and fecured his prifoners. The keep is
in the bottom of the tower, and is a difmal
.dungeon. -Return to Ulverfton, and from thence to the
priory of Conifhead, the paradife of Furnefs : a
Mount-Edgecombe in miniature, which well de-
ferves a vifit from the curious traveller. The
houfe Hands on the fite of the priory of Conif
head at the foot of a fine eminence, and the
ground falls gently from it on all fides. The
flopes are planted with fhrubs and trees in fuch a
manner as to improve the elevation ; and the wav.
ing woods that fly from it on each wing give it
an airy and noble appearance. The fouth front
is in the modern tafte, extended by an arcade.
The north is in the Gothic ftile, with a piazza
and wings. The apartments are elegantly fur-
nifhed, and the houfe is good and convenient.
But, what recommends itfelf moft to the curious,
is a plan of pleafure ground, on a fmall fcale, con
taining beauties equal in number to gardens of
the greateft extent in England. The variety of
culminated grounds, and winding flopes, compre
hended within this fweet fpot, furnifh all the ad
vantage of mountains and vales, woods and water.
By the judicious management of thefe aflemblages,
the late owner performed wonders. Confulting
the genius of the place, he called in to aid his
plan, and harmonized to his little fpot, the fea
tures of a country vaft in extent, and by nature
highly

THE LAKES. 43
highly pidturefque *, whofe diftant parts agreeing
with what was immediately near him, form a moft
magnificent whole. For, befides the ornamental
grounds, the views from the houfe are both pleaf
ing and furprifing. They are at once grand and
elegant, rural and marine. On the eaftern fide,
you have a fine seftuary, fpotted with rocks, ifles,
and peninfulas, a variety of fhore, deeply indented
in fome places, in others compofed of noble arched
rocks, craggy, broken, and fringed with wood ;
over thefe, hanging woods, intermixed with cul
tivated inclofures, covered with a back ground of
ftupendous mountains. As a contraft to this
view, from the other end of the gravel walk (be
tween two culminating hills, covered with tall
wood) is feen, in fine, perfpedtive, a rich cultivated
dale, divided by hedge-row trees j beyond thefe,
hanging grounds cut into inclofures, with fcattered
farms, and above them all, a long range of waving
pafture ground and fheep walks, fhining in variety
of vegetation. This fweet paftoral pidture is
much heightened by the deep fhade of the tower
ing wooded hills between which it is viewed..
Turn to the left, the fcenery is all reverfed. Un
der a range of tall fycamores an expanfe of water
burfts upon the eye, and beyond it land juft vifi
ble through the azure mift. Veffels traverfing
this bay are alfo feen in a moft pidturefque man ner,
* The note intended for this place proving too long, it is
infeited in the Addenda, and makes Article VIII. X.

44 A GUIDE TO
ner,and, from the lower part of the houfe, appear
failing through the trees, and approaching it till
they drop anchor juft under the windows. The
range of fycamores has a fine effect in this fea
view, by breaking the line in the watery plain,
and forming an elegant frame to a very excellent
picture. By turning a little to the right, the prof
pect changes. ' At the head of a Hoping inclofure,
and under thefkirts of a fleep wood, a fequeftered
cottage flands in the niceft point of beauty.
There is a great variety of pleafing views from
tbe different meandering walks and feats in the
wood : one at the hermitage, and another at the
feat in the bottom of the wood, where Ulverfton
and the environs make a pretty pidture. From
under the fhrubbery (on the eaftern fide of the
houfe, and from the gate at the north end of the
walk, behind a fwell of green hills), if the afternoon
fun fhine, the conical fummits of diftant mountains
are feen gliftening like burnifhed gold, and point
ing to the heavens in a noble ftile. But as this
fweet fpot is injured by defcription, I fhall only
add, that it is a great omiflion in the curious tra
veller, to be in Furnefs and not to fee fo wonder
fully pretty a place, to which nature has been fo
profufe in noble gifts, and where art has lent its
beft afliftance, under the regulation of an elegant
fancy, and a refined tafte *.
CONISTON.
* And where it is not too much to go on in a language
of a ftill higher kind,' Here

THE LAKES* 45
CONISTON.
From Ulverfton to Conifton-water is eight
miles,_ either by Penny-Bridge or by Lowick,,
both excellent carriage roads *. By Lowick the
road is along a narrow vale, beautifully divided by
hanging inclofures and fcattered farms, half wayf
up the mountains fides, whofe various heads are
covered with heath and brown vegetation. About
three miles from Ulverfton obferve a farm houfe
on the left, and a group of houfes before you on.
the right. — Stop at the gate on the brow of the
hill, and have a diftant view of the lake, finely
iriterfedted with high crowned peninfulas. At the
upper end, a fnow-white houfe is feen, under a
hanging wood, and to the north eaft, the lake
feems to wind round the mountain's feet. The
whole range of Conifton fells is now in fight, and
under them a lower fweep of dark rocks frown
over the cryftal furface of the lake. Advancing,
on the left fee Lowick-Hall, once the feat of a
family
Here hills and vales,, the woodland and the plain,
Here earth and water feem to ftrive again ;
Not chaos like, together chrufh'd and bruif'd,
But, as the world, harmonioufly confuf'd Pope's W'mdfor Forejl.
* Company that return to Ulverfton the fame day, fhould
turn off to the left near Lowick- Bridge, to Penny-Bridge, and
have a charming view of a moft beautiful bay, efpecially if
the tide be up. It opens a little fhort of Penny-Bridge, and
continues to Green-Odd, at the meeting of the rivers Leven
and Crake, where this country flate is laid up for exportation.

46 A GUIDE TO
family of that name. Behind this a difmai fcene
of barennefs prefents itfelf; cluftered grey rocky
mountains, variegated with fome few ftripes of
heath. After crofting the outlet of fhe lake, at
Lowick-Bridge, thefe dreary objects are found
often intercepted by pieces of arable ground,
hanging fweetly to the eaft, and prettily fituated
under ancient oaks, or venerable yews. The
white houfes in thefe parts, covered with blue
Hate, have a neat appearance. The thatched cof
is efteemed a more pidturefque object ; and yet
the other kind, feen under a deep green wood,
or covered with a purple background of heath,
have a pleafing effect.
Reach the fouth end of the lake. Here it is
narrowed by rocky prominences from both fides,
forming between their curvatures, a variety of pretty
bays. The whole length of the lake is about fix
rheafured miles, and the greateft breadth about three
quarters of a mile. The greateft depth, by report,
exceeds not forty fathoms. A little- higher the
broadeft part commences, and ftretches, with
fmall curvatures, to Water-head. The fhores are
frequently indented, and one pretty bay opens
after another in a variety of forms.-
STATION I. A little above the village of
Nibthwaite, the lake opens in full view. From
the roek, on the left of the road, you have a
general profpect of the lake, upwards. This
ftation

THE LAKES. 47
ftation is found by . obferving where you have a
hanging rock over the road on the eaft, and
an afh-tree on the weft fide of the road. On the
oppofite fhore, to the left, and clofe by the water's
edge, are fome ftripes of meadow and green
ground, cut into fmall inclofures, with fome dark
coloured houfes under aged yew trees. Two pro
montories projedt a great way into the lake ; the
broadeft is finely terminated by fteep rocks, and
crowned with wood ; and both are infulated when
the lake is high. Upwards, over a fine fheet of
water, the lake is again interfedted by a far-projedt-
ing promontory, that fwells into two eminences,
and betwixt them the lake is again caught, with
fome white houfes at the feet of the mountains.
And more to the right, over another headland,
you catch a fourth view of the lake, fwifting to the
north eaft. Almoft oppofite to this ftation,
ftands a houfe on the crown of a rock, co
vered with ancient trees, that has a moft
romantic appearance.
The noble fcenery increafes as you ride along
the banks. In fome places, bold rocks (lately co
vered with wood) conceal the lake entirely, and
when the winds blow, the beating of furges is
heard juft under you. In other places, abrupt
openings fhew the lake anew, and there when
calm, its limpid furface, mining like a cryftal mir
ror, reflects the azure fky, or its dappled clouds,
in the fineft mixture of nature's clare-obfcure.
On

48 A GUIDE TO
On the weflern fide, the fhore is more variegated
with fmall inclofures, fcattered cots, groves,, and
meadows. The road continues along the eaftern banks of
the lake ; here bare, there fweetly fringed with a
few tali trees, the fmall remains of its ancient
woods that till lately clothed the whole.
STATION II. When you are Oppofite to the
peninfula laft defcribed, proceed through a gate
on the left hand, and from the rocky eminence
you have a general view of the lake, both ways.
To the fouth, a fweet bay is formed between the
horns of two peninfulas, and beyond that a fine
fheet of water appears, terminated by the promon
tories which form the ftraits, through which the
lake has its outlet. From thence, the coaft is
beautifully diverfified by a number of green emi
nences crowned with wood, and fequeftered cot
tages interfperfed amongft them, half concealed by
yew trees, and, above them, a wave of rocky,
fpiral mountains, dreffed in brown vegetation, form
the moft romantic fcenes. Between this and a
wooded eminence, a green hill, cut into inclofures
to the very top, in fome parts patched with rock
and little groves, has a beautiful appearance;
efpecially when contrafted with the barren fcenes
on one hand, and the deep fhade of a waving wood
on the other. At the foot of this cultivated tract,
and oh the margin pf the lake, a few white houfes, partly

THE LAKES. ^
partly concealed in a grove, look like inchanted
feats on fairy ground. Behind thefe, a barren
bleak mountain frowns in fullen majefty, and down
his furrowed fide the Black-beck of Torver rolls
its fretted torrent. Juft at your feet lies the ob
long rocky ifle of Peel; and near it the dark
points of half-immerfed rocks juft fhew themfelves
by turns. Here is the fineft picture of the lake,
and when it is fmooth the whole is feen reflected
on the fhining furface of the watery mirror. On
the weflern fide the coaft is fteep rocks. The1
eaftern fide is much embayed. The high end
of the lake is here in view, yet it feems to wind
both ways behind the oppofite promontories.
The range of naked rocks that ciofs the head of
the lake appear now awful, from their fable hue,
and behind them the immenfe mafs of Cove,
Rydal-head, and many namelefs mountains, have
a moft flupendous appearance, and feeming inac-
ceflible height. A fucceffion of pretty bays open
to the traveller as he advances ; the banks become
more wooded, and more cultivation appears. On
the Weflern margin flands the lady of the lake*
Conifton-hall, concealed in a grove of tall trees,
and above it, the village of the fame name. The
hall has only changed mafters twice fince the
conqueft, and has belonged to the family of
Fleming moft of the time.
STATION III. After croffing the common*
where grows a picturefque yew tree on the right
e hand,

5o A GUIDE TO
hand, and a fmall peninfula rufhes into the lake
on the left, crowned with a fingle tree, enter the
grove, and pafs a gate, and bridge that croffes a
fmall rivulet. — Look for a fragment of dark-co
loured rock on the margin of the water, and near
it will be found the beft ftand for the artift to
take the fineft view on the lake. Looking acrofs
the lake, by the fouth end of the grove that con
ceals Conifton-hall, and over the cultivated tract
that rifes behind it, between two fwells of rocks,
a cataract will meet the eye, iffuing from the bofom
of the mountains. The fide ground on the right
is a wooded floping rock, and over it the road is
catched flanting along. The near fore-ground is
the greateft extent of the lake; and behind the
immediate mountains the Weftmorland fells are
feen towering to the clouds. This ftation will be
found, by company coming down the lake, at the*
circular bay, where the road firft joins the level
of the water-
The next grand view is had in the boat, and
from the centre of the lake, oppofite to Conifton-
hall. Looking towards the mountains, the lake
fpreads itfelf into a noble expanfe of tranfparent
water, and burfts into a bay on each fide, bor
dered with verdant meadows, and inclofed with
a variety of grounds rifing in an exceedingly bold
manner. The objects are beautifully diverfified
amongft themfelves, and contrafled by the fineft
exhibition of rural elegance (cultivation, and- paf-
turage,

THE LAKES. 5i
turage, waving woods, and floping inclofureSj
adorned by nature, and improved by art) under
the bold fides of ftupendous mountains, whofe airy
fummits the elevated eye cannot now reach, and
which almoft deny accefs to the human kind;
Following the line of fhore from Conifton-hall
to the upper end of the lake, the village of Conif-
ton is in full view, and confifts of feats, groups of
houfes, farms, and cots, fcattered in a pidturefque
manner over the cultivated Hope. Some are fnow-
white, others grey ; fome ftand forth on bold
eminences at thei head of green inclofures,
backed with fteep woods ; others are pitched on
fweet declivities, and feem hanging in the air ;
fome again are on a level with the lake ; and all
are neatly covered with blue flate, the produce of
fee mountains, and beautified with ornamental
yews, hollies, and tall pines, or firs. This is a
charming fcene, when the morning fun tinges the
whole with a variety of tints. In the point of
beauty and centre of perfpedtive, a white houfe;
under a hanging wood, gives life to this picture.
Here a range of dark rugged rocks rife abruptly,
arid deeply contraft the tranfparent furface of
the lake, and the ftripe of verdure that fkirts
their feet. The eaftern fhore is not lefs bold
and embayed *. e 2 It
* The flate brought down from the mountains is laid up
here, till put on board boats that tranfport it to the water foot.

52 A GUIDE TO
It ,will be allowed, that the views on this lake
are beautiful and pidturefque, yet they pleafe more
than furprife. The hills that immediately inclofe
the lake, are ornamental, but humble. The
mountains at the head of the lake are great, noble,
and fublime, without any thing that is horrid or
terrible. They are bold and fteep, without the
projecting precipice, the overhanging rock, or pen
dant cliff. The hanging woods, waving inclo
fures, and airy fites, are elegant, beautiful, and
pidturefque ; and the whole may be feen with eafe
and pleafure. In a fine morning, there is not a
more pleafant rural ride ; and then the beauties
of the lake are feen to the moft advantage. In
the afternoon, if the fun fhine, much of the effect
is loft by the change ofjight ;. and fuch as vifit it
from the north, lofe all the charms arifing from
the fwell of mountains, by turning their backs-
upon them.
The feeder of this lake, befides the Black-beck
of Torver, is Conifton-beck. It defcends from
the mountains, or rather is precipitated, in a fhort
courfe to the lake, which it enters on the weflern
canton, in a clear ftream, concealed by its banks.
The lake bends away to the eaft, and its inter
mediate fhore is a beach of pebble and fand.
This beach is adorned with a cot, fet under a
ftall topt tree.
The char here are faid to be the fineft in England.

THE LAKES. 53
land. They are taken later than on Windermere-
water, and continue longer in the fpring.
At Water-head*, the road to the eaft leads
to Amblefide, eight miles ; to Hawkfhead three.
Afcend a fleep hill furrounded with wood, and
have a back view of the lake. To the north is
a moft awful fcene of mountains heaped upfln
mountains, in every variety of horrid fhape.
Amongft them fweeps to the north a deep wind
ing chafm, darkened by overhanging rocks, that
the eye cannot pierce, nor the imagination fa
thom ; from which turn your face to the eaft, and
you have a view of fome part of Windermere-
water. The road foon divides ; the left leads to
Amblefide, the right to Hawkfhead, which ftands
under a mountain, at the upper end of a narrow
#valley. The church is feated on the front of an
eminence that commands the vale, which is float
ed with
ESTHWAITE-WATER,
Two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth,
interfected by a peninfula from each fide, jutting
far into tbe lake, finely elevated, crowned with
cultivation,
*- A little to the weft, and at the north end of the lake,
ftands the houfe of the late George Knott, Efq. who made
many handfome improvements onliis eftate here, which, con--
trafted with the native rudenefs pf the furrounding hills,
have a pleafing effect.

54 A GUIDE TO
cultivation, and bordered with fringed trees and
coppice wood. The lake is encompaffed with a
good carriage road, and over its outlet is a narrow
ftone bridge. On the banks are villages and fcat
tered houies, fweetly fituated under woods and
hanging grounds, enamelled with delightful ver
dure and foft vegetation ; all which is heightened
by the deep fhade of the woods, and the ftrong
back-ground of rocky mountains. At the head
of a gentle flope, with a juft elevation, a handfome
modern houfe, BelJ-mont, is charmingly fituated,
and commands a delightful view of the lake, with
all its environs.
The fifh here are perch, pike, eel, and trout.
No char are found in this lake, though it is con
nected with Windermere.
From Hawkfhead to Amblefide, five miles ; to
the horfe-ferry on Windermere-water, four miles.
On horfeback, this latter is the more eligible rout,
as it leads immediately to the centre of the lake,
where all its beauties are feen to the greateft
advantage.

WINDERMERE.
Windermere-water like that of Conifton, is
viewed to the greateft advantage by facing the
mountains, which rife in grandeur on the eye, and

THE LAKES. 55
and fwell upon the imagination as they are ap
proached. The road to the ferry is round the head of
Efthwaite-water, through the villages of Colthoufe
and Sawreys. Afcend a fteep hill, and from its
fummit, have a view of a long reach of Winder
mere-water, ftretching far to the fouth, till loft
between two high promontories. T'he road fer-
pentizes round a rocky mountain, till you come
under a broken fear, that in fome places hangs
over the way, and where ancient yews and hollies
grow fantaflically amongft the fallen rocks. This
brings you foon to
STATION I. Near the ifthmus of the ferry
point, obferve two fmall oak trees that inclofe the
road; thefe will guide you to this celebrated fta
tion. Behind the tree, on the weflern fide afcend
to the top of the neareft rock, and from thence, in
two views, command all the beauties of' this mag
nificent lake. But it will be more convenient to
ftop fhort of the two trees, and afcend the weft
fide of the rock, for here the afcent is eafier, and
you open on the view at once. — To do this, juft
where you crofs the road, obferve on the left a
fharp-edged procumbent rock ; turn from that a
little to the right, and gain the fummit of the crag.
The trees are of fingular ufe in anfwering the pur-
pofes of foreground, and of interfering the lake.
The rock rifes perpendicularly from the lake, and
forms

56 A GUIDE TO
forms a pretty bay *. In front, Ramps-Holme, or
Berkfhire-ifland, prefents itfelf in all its length,
clothed in wood. To the left, the ferry point,.
.doling with Crow-Holme, a wooded ifland, forms
a fine promontory. Juft behind this, the moun
tain retiring inward, makes a femicircular bay, fur-
rounded with a few acres of the moft elegant
verdure, Hoping upwards from the water's edge,
graced with a cottage in the fineft point of view.
Above it, the mountain rifes in an agreeable wild-
nefs, variegated with fcattered trees, and filver-
grey rocks. An extent of water of twelve miles
m circumference fpreads itfelf to the north, fre
quently inter fedted with promontories, or'fpotted
with iflands. Amongft them the Holme, or great
ifland, an oblong tract of thirty acres, trave'rfes
the lake in an oblique line, furrounded by a num
ber of inferior ifles, finely formed and dreffed in
wood. The pointed dark rocks pf Curlew-Crags
appear above the water, and others juft concealed,
give a fable hue to that part of the lake. Rough-
Holme, is a circular ifle, covered with trees. Lady-
Holme, where in ancient times flood, an oratory, is
* In confequence of the act for inclofing Claif common*
the Rev W. .Brathwaite purchafed the ground including
this ftation, and has erected an elegant and commodious
building thereon, for the entertainment of his friends, called
Btlle Vieu ; he has alfo planted the adjoining grounds*
and altered the direction of the road, which was rugged
and unfafe, and rendered it more convenient by carrying it
nearer the margin of the lake.

THE LAKES. 57
is an ifle of an oval form, veiled with coppice-
wood. Hen-holme is a rock covered with fhrubs-
Grafs-Holme is at prefent fhaded with a grove of
oaks. And two fmaller iflets borrow their names
from the lilies of the valley, which decorate them.
Thefe, with crow-Holme and Berkfhire-ifland,
form this Archipelago.
To the north of this magnificent fcene, a glori
ous fheet of water expands itfelf to the right and
left, in curves bearing from the eye ; bounded on
the weft by the continuation of the mountain
where you ftand, whofe bold lofty fide is embel-
lifhed with growing trees, fhrubs and coarfe vege
tation, intermixed with grey rocks, that group
finely with the deep green of yew? and hollies,
The eaftern view is a noble contrail to this^
adorned with all that is beautiful, grand, and fub
lime. The immediate fpace is much cultivated.
The variety of hanging grounds are immenfe, con-
fifting of woods, groves, and inclofures, all ter
minating in rocky uplands of various forms. It
fpreads above in a beautiful variety of waving
inclofures, intermixed with hanging woods, and
fhrubby circular fpots, overrtopped with wild
grounds, and rocky ridges of broken mountains.
In fome places it fwells into fpacious bays, fringed
with trees, whofe bufhy heads wave beautifully
over the cryftal waters. The parfonage-houfe is
feen fweetly feated under a range of tall firs.
Following the fame line of fhore, above the eaft
ferry point, and on the banks pf the bay, the tops of

58 A GUIDE TO
bf the boufes and the church of Windermere are
juft feen. Above that, Bannerigg and Orrefthead
rife gradually into points, cultivated to the top,
and cut into inclofures. Thefe are contrafled by
fhe rugged crags of Bifcot-How. Troutbeck-park
comes next in view, and over that, Hill-Bell rears
his conic top, and Fairfield fwells in Alpine pride,
rivalled only by Rydal's loftier head.
The eaftern coaft, to the fouth of what has been
defcribed, is ftill more pleafing in variety of little
groves, interpofed inclofures, and fcattered houfes,
fweetly fecreted. To the fouth, and from the
weflern coaft, at three miles diftance, Rawlinfon's-
Nab, a high crowned promontory, fhoots far into
the lake; and from the oppofite fhore, you fee
the Storrs, another wooded promontory, ftretch-
ing far into the water, pointing at the rocky ifle
of Ling-Holme. Over Rawlinfon's-Nab, the lake
fpreads out in a magnificent fheet of water ; and
following the winding fhore far to the fouth, it
feems loft behind a promontory on the eaftern fide.
Over two woody mountains, Park and Landen-
Nab, the blue fummits of other diftant moun
tains, indented in various forms, clofe the feene.
Re.turn to the road, and at the gate leading to
the ferry-houfe, follow the path to the left, hav
ing a ftone wall on the right, until you approach
the farm-houfe called Harrow. Here a charm
ing pidture will prefent itfelf in an elegant ftile.
The ifland from this ftand appears with much
variety

THE LAKES. 59
variety of fhore ; indented and embayed ; almoft
furrounded with iflets; adorned with ancient
oaks and fcattered trees *. Here the lake is
caught a feconi time over the ifland ; and the
village and caurch of Bownefs hang on its banks.
A fweeter picture than this, the lake does not
furnifh. — .The artift will find a proper ftand on
the infide of the ftone-wall.
Having from this ftation enjoyed thefe charm
ing views, defcend to the ferry-houfe, and proceed
to the great ifland, where you will again fee all
that is charming on the lake, or magnificent and
fublime in the environs, in a new jjoint of view.
Of this fequeftered fpot Mr. Young fpeaks in
rapture f, and Mr. Pennant has done it much
honour by his defcription J. But alas ! it is no
more to be feen in that beautiful unaffected ftate
in which thofe gentlemen faw it. The fweet
fecreted cottage is no more, and the fycamore
grove is fled. The prefent owner has modernized
a fine flope in the bofom of the ifland info a
formal garden. An unpleafing contrail to the
natural firaplicity and infular beauty of the place.
What
* In the collection of Views of the lakes, engraved by
Meffrs. Byrne, &c. Mr. Farington's view from the hill
above the ferry-houfe, reprefents this fcene.
¦j- Six months tour, Vol. 3, page 17$.
% Tour in Scotland, page 33.

6"q A GUIDE TO
What reafon he had for adopting fuch a plan, I
fhall not enquire ; much lefs fhall I treat him
with abufe for executing it to his own fancy.
The want of choice might juflify his having a
garden on the ifland ; but fince it is now in his
power to have it elfewhere, I hope it will be his
pleafure when he re -vifits the place, to reftore the
ifland to its native ftate of paftoral fimplicity, and
rural elegance, by its removal *.
This ifland was long the property of the Philip-
fcns, once a family of confequence in thefe parts ;
and Sir Chriftopher Philipfon refided upon it in
the beginning of this century.
STATION II. The views from this delicious
fpot are many and charming. — From the fouth
ftde of the ifland you look over a noble extent of
water, bounded in front by wave* of diftant
mountains, that rife from the water's edge. The
two ferry-points form a pidturefque ftrait ; and
beyond that, the Storrs on one fide, and Rawlin-
fon's-Nab on the other, fhpoting far into the lake,
form a grand finuofky, while the intermediate
fhores are beautifully indented with wooded pro
montories,
* This ifland is now the property of John Chriftian
Curwen, Efq, who has finifhed the large manfion -houfe be
gun by Mr. Engiifh, demolifhed the garden, laid the whole
out in pleafure-grounds, in the modern ftyle, fuitable to the
place, and made it one of the fweeteft places that can be
imagined.

THE LAKES. 61
montories, or ornamented with elegant edgings of
luxuriant trees. Berkfhire and Crow-Holme
iflands break the line in this noble expanfe of
water. The eaftern fhore difcovers much cultiva
tion ; and the fucceeding hills are much diverfified,
and ftrangely tumbled about. Some are laid out
in grafs inclofures, others cut with hedges, and
fringed with trees ; one is crowned with Wood,
and fkirted with the fweeteft verdure ; another
waves with corn ; and the whole is a mixture of
objects that conftitute the moft pleafing of rural
fcenes. — The upper grounds are wild, and paf
tured with flocks.
STATION HI. From the north fide of the
ifland, the views are more fublime and vaft. The
lake is here feen both ways. To the fouth, an
expanfe of water fpreads on both hands, arid
behind, you fee a fucceffion of promontories, with
variety of fhore, patched with iflands, and the
whole encircled by an amphitheatre of diftant
hills, rifing in a noble ftile. Turning to the north,
the view is over a reach of the lake, fix miles in
length, and above one in breadth, interrupted with
fcattered iflands of different figure and drefs ;
which on a calm day may be feen diftindtly reflect
ed from the limpid furface of the water that fur-
rounds them. The environs exhibit all the gran
deur of Alpine fcenes. The conic fummits of
Langdale-Pikes and Hill-Bell ; the brbken ridge
of Wrynofe, and the rocky point of Kirkftone ;
the

<5a A GUIDE TO
the overhanging cliff of Hardknot * ; the uniform
mafs of Fairfield and Rydal-head, with the far-*
extended mountains of Troutbeck and Kentmere,
• — form as magnificent an amphitheatre, and as
grand an affemblage of mountains, dells, and
chafrhs, as ever the fancy of Pouflin fuggefted,
or the genius of Rofa invented.. The ifland is
the centre of this amphitheatre, and in the oppo
fite point, directly over the extremity of the lake,
is Rydal-Hall, fweetly feated for the enjoyment of
thefe fcenes, and animating the whole in return.
The immediate borders of the lake are adorned
with villages and fcattered cots. Calgarth + and
Rayrig grace its banks. Aftet
* Langdale-pikes, Wrynofe. and Hardknot are named as
being in the environs, and in the weftern canton of this am
phitheatre, yet are in rtality not feen from the ifland, being
intercepted by a procefs of Furnefs fells.
f This old manfion isbuilt much in the ftile of Levens and
Sizergh. Some of the rooms have been elegantly finifhed ;
but having been a long time in the poficflion of farmers, who
occupy but a part of it, it is much gone out of repair, and
has on the whole a melancholy appearance. This circum
ftance, in concurrence with the fuperftitious notions,' which
have ever been common in country place's, and the particulars
mentioned below, have probably given rife to a leport, which
has long prevailed, that the houfe is haunteil. And many
are the (lories of fiightful vifions, and mifchievous deeds,
which the goblins of the place are faid to have performed
to terrify and diftrefs the harmlefs neighbourhood. Thefe
fables arc not yet entirely difhehtved. Spectres ftill are
feen,

THE LAKE S^ 63
After enjoying thefe internal views from the
bofom of the lake, I recommend failing down to
RawJinfon's-Nab. On the fouth fide of it, a
pretty
feen, and there are two human flculis, which have lain in
the window ot a large room as long as can be remembered,
whofe hiftory and reputed properties are too Angular not to
contribute fomething to this ftory of the haunted houf , and
to let them pafs over in this note.
It has been a prpular tale in thefe parts, of immemorial'
ftanding, that thefe flculis formerly belonged to two poor
old people, who were unjuftly executed for a robbery ; that,
to perpetuate their innocence, fome ghoft brought them
there, and that they are for that end indeJlruSible, and, in
effect immoveable. For, it is faid, to what place foever they
were taken, or however ufed, they were ftill prefently feen
again in their old dormitory, the window. As the report
goes, they have been buried, burnt, powdered, and difperfed
in the wind, and upon the lake, feveral times to no purpofe,
as to their removal or deftruction. So far fays common- fame..
Certain it is human remains ftill exift. And it would be
thought an impeachment of the tafte and curiofity of the
nymphs and fwains of the neighbouring villages, if they could
not fay they had once feen the flculis of Calgarth.
As a more rational account of the matter, (though ftill
lame and unfatisfactory) it is told by fome, that there for
merly lived in the houfe a famous doctrefs who had two
Ikeletons by her, for the ufual purpofes of her profeffion ;
andthe flculis happening to meet with better prefeivation
than the reft of the bones, tbcv were accidently honoured
with lingular notice. But be their origin what it may,
their legend is too whimlical and improbable to deferve being
recorded, otherwife than as an inftance of the never-failing
credulity of ignorance and fupeiftition.
1 Calgarth

64 A GUIDE TO
pretty bay Opens for landing. In the Courfe of
the voyage^ you fhould touch at the different
iflands in the way, where every object is varied
by a change of features, in fuch a manner as ren
ders them wholly new. The great ifland changes
its appearance, and, joined with the ferry points*
cuts the lake in two. The houfe thereon becomes
an important object. The ferry-houfe, feen under
the. fycamore grove, has a fine effedt ; and the
broken cliff over it, conftitutes a moft agreeable.
picture. The greateft beatity of fhore, and the
fineft rural fcenes in nature, are found by travers
ing the lake ; and viewing each in turn, they
receive improvement from contrail. — The weflern
fide is fpread with enchanting fylvan fcenes ; the
eaftern waves with all the improved glory of rural
magnificence. STATION IV. Rawlinfon's-Nab is a penm-
fular rock, of a circular figure, fwelling to a crown
in the centre, covered with low wood ; there are
two of them, but it is from the crown of the
interior Nab, you have the prefent furprifing view
of two fine fheets of water, that bend different ways.
The view to the fouth is bounded on both fide*
Calgarth eftate is now the property of Dr. Watfon,
bifhop of Landaff, who has built an elegant manfion thereon,
which, with the other improvements in that fine fituation,
make it one of the moft elegant places of refidenee in this
Country.-

THE LAKES. 65
fides by a bold and various fhore. The hills are
wooded and rough, but fpotted in parts with fmall
inclofures, and their tops burft into rocks of vari
ous fhapes.
The view to the ftorth is more beautiful : an
extent of three miles of the lake, is broken into
by the bold promontory, the Storrs, and, above '
that, Berkfhire-ifland is charmingly placed. Ban
nerigg and Orreft-head, rifing inward from the
fhore in magnificent flopes, are feen from hence
to great advantage. This beautiful fcene is
well contrafted on the oppofite fide, by a ridge
of hanging woods, fpread over wild romantic
grounds,, that fhoot abruptly into bold and fpirits
ed projedtions *.
Return to Bownefs, and conclude the furvey
by taking Mr. Young's general view of the lake,
where, at one glance, you command all its flrik-
ing beauties. No ftation can better anfwer the
purpofe, and it would be here an injuflice done
to the difsoverer, to deviate one tittle from his
defcription. STATION V. " Thus having viewed the
moft pleafing objects from thefe points, let me
next conduct you to a fpot, where, at one glance,
F you
As it commanded more of the mountains at the head
of the lake, Mr. Farington has given the view from Gill-
'aead, on the oppofite fhore.*

66 A GUIDE TO
you command them all in frefh fituations, and all
afluming a new appearance. For this purpofe,
you return to the village, arid taking the bye-road
to the turnpike, mount the hill without turning
your head (if I was your guide, I would condudt
you behind a fmall hill, that you might come at
once upon the view) till you almoft gain the top,
when you will be ftruck with aftonifhment at the
profpect fpread at your feet, which, if not the
moft fuperlative view that nature can exhibit, fhe
is more fertile in beauties than the reach of my
imagination will allow me to conceive. It would
be mere vanity to attempt to defcribe a fcene
which beggars all defcription ; but that you may
have fome faint idea of the outlines of this won
derful picture, I will juft give the particulars of
which it confifts.
" The point on which you ftand is the fide of
a large ridge of hills that form the eaftern bound
ary of the lake, and the fituation high enough to
look down upon all the objedts : a circumftance
of great importance, which painting cannot imi
tate. In landfcapes you are either on a level
with the objects, or look up to them ; the painter
cannot give the declivity at your feet, which
leffons the objedt as much in the perpendicular
line, as In the horizontal one. You look down
upon a noble winding valley, of about twelve
miles long, every where inclofed with grounds,
which rife in a very bold, and various manner ; in
fome

THE LAKES. 67
fome places bulging into mountains, abrupt, wild,
and uncultivated ; in others breaking into rocks,
c^aggy> pointed, and irregular ; here rifing into
hills covered with the nobleft woods, prefenting a
gloomy brownnefs of fhade, almoft from the clouds,
to the reflection of the trees in the limpid water
of the lake they fo beautifully fkirt ; there wav
ing in glorious flopes of cultivated inclofures,
adorned in the fweeteft manner with every object
that can give variety to art, or elegance to nature ;
trees, woods, villages, houfes, farms, fcattered
with pidturefque confufion, and waving to the eye
in the moft romantic landfcapes that nature can
exhibit. " This valley, fo beautifully inclofed, is floated
by the lake, which fpreads forth to the right and
left in one vaft, but irregular expanfe of tranfpa-
rent water ; a more noble objedt can hardly be
imagined. Its immediate fhore is traced in every
variety of line that fancy can imagine ; fomqtimes
contradting the lake into the appearance of a
noble winding river; at others retiring from it,
and opening into large bays, as if for navies to
anchor in ; promontories fpread with woods, or
fcattered with trees and inclofures, projedting into
the water in the moft pidturefque ftile imaginable ;
rocky points breaking the fhore, and rearing
their bold heads above the water ; in a word, a
variety that amazes the beholder.
F 2 But

6$ A GUIDE TO
" But what finifhes the fcene, with an elegance
too delicious to be imagined, is, this beautiful
fheet of water being dotted with ijo lefs than ten
iflands, diftindtly comprehended by the eye ; all
of the moft bewitching beauty. The large one
prefents a waving various line, which rifes from
the water in the moft pidturefque inequalities of
furface : high land in one place, low in another,
clumps of trees in this fpot, fcattered ones in
that, adorned by a farm-houfe on the water's
edge, and backed with a little wood, vying in
fimple elegance with Baromean palaces : fome of
the fmaller iflets rifing from the lake, like little
hills of wood ; fome only fcattered with trees,
and others of grafs of the fineft verdure ; a more
beautiful variety is1 no where to be feen.
" Strain your imagination to command the
idea of fo noble an expanfe of water, thus glo-
rioufly environed, fpotted with iflands, more
beautiful than would have iffued from the happieft
painter. Picture the mountains rearing their ma-
jeftic heads with native fublimity ; th« vaft rocks
boldly projedting their terrible craggy points ;
and, in the path of beauty, the variegated inclo
fures of the moft charming verdure, hanging to
the eye in every pidturefque form that can grace
landfcape, with the moft exquifite touches of la
belle nature. If you raifeyour fancy to fomething
infinitely beyond this affemblage of rural elegan cies,

THE LAKES. 69
ties-, you may have a faint notion of the unexam
pled beauties of this ravifhing landfcape. "
If the fun fhines, this view of Mr. Young's can
only be enjoyed early in the morning ; as that on
the oppofite fhore, behind the two oak trees, is,
from a parity of circumftances, an afternoon
profpect. Thefe are the fineft ftations on the lake
for pleafing the eye, but are by much too elevat
ed for the purpofe of the artift,. who will find the
pidturefque points on the great ifland well fuited
for his intention of morning and evening land
fcape, having command of fore-ground, the objedts
well afcertained, grouped, anddifpofed in the fineft
order of nature. A picture of the north end of
the lake, taken from this ifland, will far exceed
the fanciful production of the happieft pencil. —
This may be eafily verified by the ufe of the con
vex reflecting glafs.
Rawlinfon's Nab is a pidturefque point, either
for the eye or the pencil. You are there advanc-
ed a great way into the lake, in the midft of the
fineft fcenes, and with a charming fore-ground.
From the low Cat-Crag, which is a little to the
fouth of the Nab, you have a view of the fouth
end of the lake, and as far north as the great
ifland. The ferry points, the Storrs, the Nab,
and the lefler iflands, are diftindtly viewed in a
fine order. The houfe on the ifland is a good
object ;

70 A GUIDE TO
objedt; and the beauties of the weflern fhore to
the fouth of the Crag are only feen from thence.
To fum up the peculiar beauties of Winder
mere, its great variety of landfcapes, and enchant
ing views, after what Mr. Young has faid of it, is
unneceffary. He allowed himfelf time to examine
this lake, and the lakes in Cumberland, and he
defcribes each of them with much tafte and judg
ment, and it is evident he gives the preference to
Windermere *. Yet this ought not to prejudice
the minds of thofe who have the tour to make,
againft fuch as prefer Derwent-water, or Ulls-
water. The ftiles are all different, and therefore
the fenfations they excite will alfo be different ;
and the idea that gives pleafure or pain in the
higheft degree, will be the rule of comparative judgment.
* Mr. Pennant compares it to the chief of the Scotch
lakes, and concludes it to be here what Lomond is there.
On the banks of Windermere-water, have been lately
built, or are now building, many elegant villas ; by Mr. Law,
at Brathay ; Mifs Pritchard, Croft-Lodge, Clapperfgate ;
Mr. Harrifon, above Amblefide ; Mrs. Taylor, Cottage,
Amblefide ; the Bifhop of Landaff, Calgarth ; Mrs. Taylor,
Bell-Field, near Bownefs ; Sir John Legard, Bart. Storrs ;
Mr. Dixon Fell-Foot ; and Mr. Machel, Newby-Bridge.
Thefe objects, as works of art, moft of whiph are done in
ftiles fuitable to their fituations, give an air of confequence
to the country, and, with the furrounding natural beauties,
have lately made this neighbourhopd, and particularly about
Amblefide, a place of the greateft reforU

THE LAKES. 71
judgment. It will, however, perhaps be allowed
by all, that the greateft variety of fine landfcape
is found at this lake *.
Thefe ftations will furnifh much amufement to
thofe who vifit them ; and others may perhaps be
occafionally found, equally pleafing. And who
ever is delighted with water expeditions and enter
tainments, fuch as rowing, failing, fifhing, &c.
may enjoy them here in the higheft perfection.
The principal feeders of Windermere-water
are the rivers Rothay and Brathay. They unite
their ftreams at the weftern corner of the head
of the lake, below Clapperfgate, at a place called
the Three-foot-brander, and after a fhort courfe
boldly enter the lake.
The fifh of this lake are char, trout, perch,
pike, and eel. Of the char there are two varieties,
the cafe char, and the gelt char ; the latter is a fifh
that
* Not one bulrufh or fwampy reed defiles the margin of
thid imperial lake. No lake has its border fo well ascer
tained, and of fuch eafy accefs. Not one, after Lomond,
ean boaft of fo vaft a guard of mountains, with fuch variety
and diverfity of fhore.
In navigating tbe lake upwards from the gr.eat ifland, the
extremity appears fingularly noble ; its parts great and pic-
turefque. The view of the furrounding mountains, from
Cove to Kirkftone, is aftonifhing.

72 A, GUIDE TO
that did not fpawn the laft feafon, and is
on that account more delicious.
The greateft depth of the lake is, oppofite to
Ecclerigg-Crag, 222 feet. The fall from Newby-
Bridge, where the current of the lake becomes
vifible, to the high wafer mark of the tide at
Low-wood (diftant two miles) is 1 05 feet. The
bottom of the lake is therefore 1 1 7 feet below
the high water mark of the fea.
In Bownefs there is nothing fo remarkable as
fome remains of painted glafs, in the eaft windpw
of the church, that were brought from the abbey
of Furnefs *.
From Bownefs to Amblefide is fix miles, along
the fide of the lake f. On the top of an eminence, a
* " The prefent remains of this window fhew that it has
contained very fine colouring in its former ftate. The arms
of France and England quartered, are well preferved at the
top of the window. The defign is a crucifixion, in figures
as large as life. By the hands, feet, and parts remaining, it
feems to have been of lingular beauty. On the dexter fide
of the crucifixion* is St. George flaying the dragon : on the
finifter, the virgin Mary ; — an uncouth afiemblage. Be
neath, are the figures of a knight and his lady kneeling ;
before whom, are a group of kneeling monks, over whofe
heads are wrote W. Hartley, Tho. Honton, and other names,
by the breaking of the glafs rendered not legible. "
Hutch'mf on's Excurfion.
f The Low-wood Inn, abou* two miles fhojt of Amble fide,

THE LAKES, 73
& little behind Rayrig *, there is a fine view of the
northern extremity of the lake. As you proceed
along the banks, every ftep has importance, and
the profpect becomes more and more auguft, ex
hibiting much variety of Appenine grandeur.
Langdale-Pikes, that guard the pafs into Borrow-
dale on this fide the Yoak, and fpiral Hill-Bell ;
the
fide, will attract the touriftsnotice. No otherinn in his route
has fo fine a view of a lake, and the natural beauties of which
he is in queft. A fmall cannon is kept here to gratify the cu
rious with thofe remarkable reverberations of found, which
follow the report of a gun, &c. in thefe fingular vales, and of
which a general defcription is given in the f ubfequcnt lines.

-The cannons roar

Burfts from the bofom of the hollow fhore.
The dire explofion the whole concave fills,
And fhakes the firm foundations of the hills,
Now paufing deep, now bellowing from afar,
Now rages near the elemental war :
Affrighted Echo opens all her cells,
With gather'd ftrength the polling clamour fwells,
Check'd orimpell'd, and varying in its courfe,
It {lumbers, now awakes with double force,
Searching the ftrait, and crooked hill and dale,
Sinks in the breeze, or rifes in the gale ;
Chorus of earth and fky '. the mauntains fing,
And heaven's own thunders thio' the valleys ring. Killarttey. X.
* This place is faid to have fome refemblance of Femey,
on the lake ef Geneva, the feat of the late celebrated
Voltaire.

74 A GUIDE TO
the overhanging crags of lofty Rainfbarrow ; the
broken ridge of Redfcrees, Fairfield, and Scrubby-
Crag (on whofe precipitous front the eagle builds
his nefty fecure from the envious fhepherds of the .
vale), with a chaos of other namelefs mountains,
are all in fight.
Juft at the head of Windermere, and a little
fhort of Amblefide, turn down a bye-road to the
left and fee the veftige of a Roman ftation. -¦ It
lies in a meadow, on a level with the lake, and,
as fuppofed, was called the Didtis, where a part of
the cohort Nerviorum Didentium was ftationed.
It is placed near the meetings of all the roads from
Penrith, Kefwick, Ravenglafs, Furnefs, and Ken
dal, which it commanded, and was accceffible only
on one fide.
AMBLESIDE*.
Here nothing at prefent is found of all that
Camden mentions of this place. So fwift is time in
* {Amboglana, Notit. Imper. Dictts. Horfley). — Though
the author has not mentioned the circumftance, it is fuppofed
that the natural beauties of this part of the country are equal
in variety and perfection to any to be feen in the tour, and
that the lover of landfcape in viewing many an undefcribed
fcene, would be highly gratified and delighted. But it is
judged beft not to defcend to particulars. Let the admirer
of rural nature pleafe himfelf in their difcovery as well as
txamination. Alfo,

THE LAKES- T$,
in deflroying the laft remains of ancient magnifi
cence! Roman coins and arms have been fre
quently found here ; and, in forming the turn
pike road through Rydal, an urn was lately taken
up, which contained afhes and other Roman re
mains,
Alfo, if the tourift love mountainous profpects, he may
meet with one, in about a three hours ride from this place
that will not fail to pleafe him. It is on Low-pike, in Rydal.
park, from whence may be feen many of the lakes, as Rydal.
water, Grafmere-water, Windermere-water, Blencow-tarn,
Elter-water, Efthwaite-water, and Conifton-water , alfo the
Ifle of Waltiey, Pile of Foudry, the whole of Duddon, Ul
verfton, Lancafter, and Millthorp fands ; the mountain In
gleborough, and at an opening between two hills, the
hideous rocks in Borrowdale. A further walk of about an
hour will give a view of Skiddaw, Helvellyn, Ulls- water, the
Vale of St. John, and other parts of Cumberland, — This
mountainous excurfion over, the following lines may not uo~
aptly be introduced to the readers notice. —
Defcending now from Other's pure domain,
By fancy borne to range the nether plain.
Behold all-winning novelty difplay'd
Along the i vale, the mountain, and the fhade.
The fcenes but, late diminutive, refume
Their native grandeur, and their wonted bloom.
The wopds expand their umbrage o'er the deep,
And with ambitious aim' afcend the fteep,
Stage above ftage, their vig'rous arms invade
The talleft cliffs, and wrap them in the fhade.
Each in its own pre-eminence regain's
The high dominion of the fubject plains,
Smiling beneath, fuch fmiles the people wear,
Happy in fome paternal monarch's care. Killarniy. X.

f6 A GUIDE TO
mains, and ferves to prove that the tract of the
ancient road laid that way.
In mountainous countries, cafcades, water-falls,
and cataradts, are frequent, but only to be feen in
high perfedtion when in full torrent, and that is
in wet weather, or foon after it. About a mile
above Amblefide, there is, in a place called the
Groves, a cafcade, that, though the feafon fhould
be dry, merits a vifit, on account of its fingular
beauty, and diflinguifhed features *. It is the
moft curious you will fee in the courfe of the tour.
The ftream here, though the water be low, is
much divided, and broken by a variety of pointed
dark rocks ; after this, colledting itfelf into one
torrent, it is precipitated with a horrid rufhing
noife into a dark gulph, unfathomable to the eye ;
and then, after rifing in foam, it is once more
dafhed with a thundering noife headlong down a
fteep craggy channel, till it joins the Rothay,
below Amblefide. The parts of this cataract are
noble. The deep dark hue of the rocks, in the
gloomy bofom of a narrow glen, juft vifible by
day, and the foaming water, tinged with a hue of
green, caught from the trees and fhrubs that wave
over the fall, render this fcene higly awful and
pidturefque. From Amblefide to Kefwick fixteen miles of
excellent mountain road furnifhe* much amufe-
ment to the traveller. If the feafon be rainy, or
immediately
* This cafcade is c ommonly called Stock-gill force-.

THE LAKES. 77
immediately after rain, all the poffible variety of
cafcades, water-falls, and cataracts, < are feen in
this ride ; fome precipitating themfelves from im
menfe heights, others leaping and bounding from
rock to rock, in foaming torrents, hurling huge
fragments of them to the vale, that make the
mountains tremble to their fall. The hollow
noife fwells and dies upon the ear by turns. The
fcenes are aftonjfhing, and the fueeeffion of them
matchlefs. At Rydal-Hall are two cafcades worthy
of notice. One is a little above the houfe, to
which Sir Michael le Fleming has made a conve*
nient path, that brings you upon it all at once.
This is a mighty torrent tumbling headlong, and
uninterruptedly, from an immenfe height of rock,
into the rocky bafcn below, fhaking the mountain
under you with its fall, and fhe air above with the
rebound. It is a furprifing fcene. This gentle
man's example in opening a road to the fall,
recommends itfelf ftrongly to others of this coun
try, which abounds with fo many noble objects of
curiofity, and which all travellers of the leaft tafte
would vifit with pleafure, could they do it with
convenience and fafety.
The other cafcade is a fmall fall of water, feea
through the window of the fummer-houfe, in Sir
Michael's orchard *. The firft who brought this
fweet fcene to light, is tbe elegant and learned editor
* No. 1 $. of the views of the lakes, by Mr. Farlngton,

7S A GUIDE TO
editor of Mr. Gray's letters. And as no one
defcribes thefe views better than Mr. Mafon, the
reader fhall have the account of it in his own
words. " Here nature has performed every thing
in little that fhe ufually executes in her larger
fcale ; and, on that account, like the miniature
painter, feems to have finifhed every part of it in
a ftudied manner. Not a little fragment of a
rock thrown into the bafon, not a fingle ftem of
brufh-wood that flarts from its craggy fides, but
has a pidturefque meaning ; and the little central
current dafhing down a cleft of the darkeft colour
ed ftone, produces an effedt of light and fhadow
beautiful beyond defcription. This little thea
trical fcene might be painted as large as the ori
ginal, on a canvas not bigger than thofe ufually
dropped in the opera-houfe *."
Rydal-Hall f has a grand fituation, at the feet
of flupendous mountains (opening to the fouth, at
* There is a cafcade at Nunnery, near Kirkofwald, in
Cumberland, much in the fame ftile as this. The accompa
niments are as beautiful, the bafon larger, and the perpen
dicular fall 18 feet. But it is only one of a feries of roman
tic fcenes which abound at Nnnnery, and are equal if not
fuperior in their kind to any we have found in our tour :
nor can we forbear to recommend this interefting fpot to the
notice of every travelltr of tafte : it is fituated about 10
miles from Penrith, on the right of the road to Carlifle.
f Sir Michael le Fleming, has lately made a new front to
Rydal-Hall, in a good ftile, which gives it a very interefting
appearance.

THE*LAKES. 7g
at the entrance of the vale, over a noble fore_
ground), and commands a charming view of
Windermere-water*. The river Rothay winds
through the vale, amidft lofty rocks and hanging
woods, to join the lake. The road ferpentizes
upwards, round a bulging rock, fringed with
trees, and brings you foon in fight of
RYDAL -WATER;
A lake about a mile in length, fpotted with
little ifles, and which communicates, by a narrow
channel, with
GRASMERE-WATER.
The river Rothay is their common outlet.
Mount Grafmere hill, and from the top, have
a view of as fweet a fcene as travelled eye ever
beheld f. Mr. Gray's defcription of this peace
ful, happy vale, will raife a wifh in every reader
to fee fo primaeval a place.
" The bofom of the mountains, fpreading here
into a broad bafon, difeover in the midft Graf-
mere-
* The ftile of this landfcape will be feen in No. 15 of
Mr. Farington's views.
-J- A little to the left of the road, is No. 5. of Mr. Fa
rington's views.

to A GUIDE T6
mere-water; its margin is hollowed into" final!
bays, with eminences ; fome of rock, fome of foft
turf, that half conceal and vary the figure of the
little lake they command : from the fhore, a low
promontory pufties itfelf far into the water, and
on it ftands a white village, with a parifh church
rifing in the midft of it : hanging inclofures, corn
fields, and meadows, green as an emerald, with
their trees, and hedges, and. cattle, fill up the
whole fpace from the edge of the water : and juft
oppofite to you is a large farm-houfe, at the bot
tom of a fteep fmooth lawn, embofomed in old
woods, which climb half way up the mountains
fides, and difeover above, a broken line of crags,
that crown the fcene. Not a fingle red tile, no
flaring gentleman's houfe, or garden wall, break
in upon the repofe of this little unfufpedted para
dife ; but all is peace, ruflicity, and happy po
verty, ia» it& neateft moft becoming attire *. "
Mr. Gray*s defcription is taken from the road
defcending from Dunmail-raife. But the more
advantageous ftation, to view this romantic vale
from, is on the fouth end of the weftern fide.
Proceed from Amblefide by Clapperfgate, along
the banks of the river Brathay, and at Sealewith-
Bridge afcend a fteep hill called Loughrig, that
leads to Grafmere, and a little behind its fummit
you come in fight of the valley and lake, lying via
* The whole of Mr, Gray's journal is given in the Ad
denda, Article III,

The lakes. 8*
a the fweeteft order. Obferve between two cropt
afh-trees, in the ftone- wall on the right hand, a few
fteps leading to a foft green knoll, and from its
crown, you have the fineft view of the vale, the
lake, and the environs *. The ifland is near the
centre, unlefs the water be very low. Its margin
is graced with a few fcattered trees, and an em-'
bowered hut. The church ftands, at a fmall dif
tance from the lake, on the fide of the Rothay j
its principle feeder. On each hand fpread culti
vated tracts Up the fteep fides of furrounding
mountains, guarded by Steel-Fell and Seat-Sandle,
which, advancing towards each other, clofe the
view at Dunmail-raife. The broken head of
Helme-Crag has a fine effect feen from this point.
Defcend the hill, leave the church on the right
hand, and you will pirefently arrive at the great
road between Amblefide and Kefwick. Here you
have Mr. Gray's view, and will fee the differencCi
Mr. Gray has omitted the ifland in his defcription,
which is a principle feature in this fcene.
This vale of peace is about four miles in cir
cumference, and guarded at the upper end by
Helme-Crag, a broken pyramidal mountain, that
exhibits an immenfe mafs of antediluvian ruins.
After this the road afcends Dunmail-raife, where
lie the hiftorical flones, that perpetuate the name
q and
* The view of Grafmere, engraved for this work, is takes
from near this place.

fe A GUIDE TO
and fall of the laft King of Cumberland, defeated*
there by the Saxon monarch Edmund, who put
out the eyes of the two fons of his adverfary, and
for his confederating with Leolin, King of Wales,
firft wafted his kingdom, and then gave it to Mal
colm, King of Scots, who held it in fee bf Edmund,
A. D. 944, or 945. The flones are a heap, that
have the appearance of a karn, or barrow. The
wall that divides the counties is built over them ;
which proves their priority of time in that form.
From Dunmail-raife the road is an eafy defcent
of nine miles to Kefwick, except on Caftle-Rigg,
which is fomewhat quick. Leaving the vale of
Grafmere behind, you foon come in fight of
LEATHES-WATER,
Called alfo Wythburn, or Thirlemere-water. It
begins at the foot of Helvellyn, and fkirts its
bafe for the fpace of four miles, encreafed by a
variety of paftoral torrents, that pour their filver
ftreams down fhe mountains fides, and then,
warbling, join the lake. The range of moun
tains, on the right, are tremendoufly great.
Helvellyn and Cachidecam are the chief; and,
according to the Wythburn fhepherds, much
higher than Skiddaw. It is, however, certain,
that thefe mountains retain fnow many weeks
after Skiddaw. But that may be owing to the
fteepnefs of Skiddaw' s northern, fide, and fhivery
furface,

THE LAKES. 03
furface, that attracts more forcibly the folar rays,
than the verdant front of Helvellyn, and fo foonef
lofes its winter covering. A thoufand huge rocks
hang on Helvellyn' s brow, which have been once
in motion, and are now feemingly prepared to
flart anew. Many have already reached the
lake,, and are at reft. The road fweeps through
them, along the naked margin of the lake. The
oppofite fhore is beautified with a Variety of crown-
topt rocks, fome rent, fome wooded, others hot,
rifing immediately from, or hanging towards the
water ; and all fet off with a back-ground of
verdant mountains, rifing in the nobleft paftoral
ftile. Its fingular beauty is its being almoft inter-
fedted in the middle by two peninfulas, that are
joined by a bridge in a tafte fuitable to the genius of
the place, which ferves for an eafy communication
among the fhepherds that dwell on the oppofite
banks, At the fixth mile-poft, from the top of an
eminence on the left, there is a good general
view of the lake and vale ; but the moft pidturefque
point, is from an eminence behind Dale-Head
houfe. This end is beautifully decorated with
two fmall iflands, dreffed with wood, and charm
ingly placed. The lake terminates fweetly with
a pyramidal rock, wooded to the top ; and,
oppofite to it, a filver grey rock, hanging over its
bafe, towards the lake, has a fine effect.

G 2

The

84 A GUIDE TO
The road, after this leads through the narrow
green vale of Legberthwaite, divided into fmall in
clofures, peopled with a few cots, and nobly termi
nated by the romantic, caftle-like rock of St. John.
Below this, the vale contradts into a deep craggy
dell, through which Leathes-water rolls, till it
joins the Greeta, at New-Bridge, under the foot
of Threlkeld-Fell, a gloomy mountain of dark dua
rocks, that fhuts up the view of the fweet fpread
ing vale of St. John.
The road now winds to the left, by Smalth-
waite-Bridge, and afcends Naddle-Fell, by Caufe-
way-Foot to Caftle-Rigg. At the turn of the hill,
and within about a mile of Kefwick, you come at
once in fight of its glorious vale, with all its noble
environs, and enchanting fcenes, which, when Mr.
Gray beheld, it almoft determined him to return
to Kefwick again, and repeat his tour.
" I left Kefwick," fays lie, " and took the Am
blefide road, in a gloomy morning, and about two
miles [or rather about a mile J from the town,
mounted an eminence called Caftle-Rigg, and the
fun breaking out, difcovered the moft enchanting
view I have yet feen, of the whole valley behind
me ; $ie two lakes, the rivter, the mountains in all
their glory j fo that I had almoft a mind to have
gone back again." This is certainly a moft ra-
vifhing morning view, of the bird's eye kind. For
here we have, feen in all their beauty,' a circuit of
twenty

THE LAKES. 85
twenty miles ; two lakes, Derwent and Baffenth-
waite, and the river ferpentizing between them ;
the town of Kefwick and the church of Crof-
thwaite in the central points ; an extenfive fertile
plain, and all the ftupendous mountains that fur-
round this delicious fpot.
The druid-temple delineated in Pennant's tour
lies" about half a mile to the right, but will be
more conveniently feen from the Penrith road*
Defcend to
KESWICK*.
This fmall neat town is at prefent renowned
for nothing fo much as the lake it ftands near,
and which is fometimes called, from the town,
the lake of Keswick,, but more properly the lake
of Derwent ; and I am inclined to think, and hope
to make it appear, that the ancient name of Kef
wick is the Derwent town, or the town of Derwent-
water. But firft of the lake itfelf f.
The, whole extent of the lake is about three
miles, from north to fouth ; the form is irregular,
and its greateft breadth exceeds, not a mile and a
half. The beft method of viewing this enchanting
water, is in a boat, and from the banks. Mr-
Gray
* (Derventione Raven. Chor.)
¦j- Some agreeable lines defcriptive of this lake, by Dr.
Dalton, may be feen in the Addenda, Article II.

86 A GUIDE TO
Gray viewed it from the banks only, and Mr.
Mafon, after trying both, prefers Mr. Gray's
choice ; and, where the pleafure of rowing and
failing is out of the queftion, it will, in general, be
found the beft, on account of the fore-ground,
which the boat does not .furnifh. Every dimen-
fion of the lake however appears more extended
from its bofpm, than from its banks. I fhall
therefore point out the favourite ftations round
the lake, that have often been verified.
STATION I. Cockfhut-hill is remarkable for
a general view. It is covered with a motley mix
ture of young wood ; has an eafy afcent to the
top, and from it the lake appears in great beauty.
On the floor of a fpacious amphitheatre of the
moft pidturefque mountains imaginable, an elegant
fheet of water is fpread out before you, fhining
like a mirror, and tranfparent as cryftal ; varie
gated with iflands, adorned with wood, or clothed
with the fweeteft verdure, that rife in the moft
pleafing forms above the watery plain. The ef-
fedts all around are amazingly great ; but no
words can defcribe the furprifing pleafure of this
fcene on a fine day, when the fun plays upon the
bofom of the lake, and the furrounding mountains
are illuminated by his refulgent rays, and their
rocky broken fummits invertedly reflected by the
furface of the water.
STATION II. The next celebrated ftation is
at

THE LAKES. $?
st a fmall diftance, named Crow-Park, which con
tained, till of late, a grove of oaks of immemoriai
growth, whofe fall the bard of Lowes-water thus
bemoans, in humble plaintive numbers :
— That ancient wood where beafts did fafely reft,
Afld where the crow long time had built her neft,
Now falls a deftin'd prey to favage hands,
Being doom'd, alas ! to vifit diftant lands.
Ah ! what avails thy boafted ftrength at laft'!
That brav'd the rage of many a furious blaft ;
When now thy body's fpent with many a wound,' ~i
Loud groans its laft, and thunders on the ground, f
Whilft hills, and dales, and woods, and rocks refound. -»
This now fhadelefs pafture, is a gentle emi
nence, not too high, on the very margin of the
lake, which it commands in all its extent, and
looks full into the craggy pafs of Borrowdale.
Of this ftation Mr. Gray fpeaks thus. " Octo
ber 4, I walked to Crow-Park, now a rough
pafture, once a glade of'ancient oaks, whofe large
roots ftill remain in the ground, but nothing has
fprung from them. If one fingle tree had re
mained, this would have been an unparalled fpot ;
and Smith judged right when he took his print of
the lake froni hence, for it is a gentle eminence,
not too high, on the very margin of the water,
and commands it from end to end, looking full
into the gorge of Borrowdale. I prefer it even to
Cockfhut-Hill, which lies befide it, and to which
I walked in the afternoon; it is covered with
young trees, both fown and planted, oak, fpruce,
Scotch fir &c. all which thrive wonderfully. There

88 A GUIDE TO
There is an eafy afcent to the top, and the view
far preferable to that on Caftle-Hill, becaufe this
is lower and nearer the lake ; for I find all points,
that are much elevated, fpoil the beauty of the
valley, and make its parts, which are not large,
fook poor and diminutive."
STATION III, A third ftation, on this fide,
will be found by keeping along the line of fhore,
till Stable-Hills be on the right, and Wallow-Crag
directly over you on the left ; then, without the
gate, on the edge of the common, obferve two
huge fragments of ferruginous coloured rock,
pitched into the fide of the mountain by their
defcent, Here all that is great and pleafing on
the lake, all that is grand and fublime in the
environs, lie before you in a beautiful order, and
natural difpofition. Looking down upon the
water, the four large iflands appear diftindtly
over the peninfula of Stable-Hills. Lord's-lfland,
richly dreffed in wood. A little to the left, Vi-
car's-Ifle rifes in a beautiful and circular form;
Ramps-Holme is, catched in a line betwixt that
and St. Herbert'srlfland, which traverfes the lake
in an oblique direction, and has a fine effect.
Thefe are the four moft confiderable iflands on the
lake. Under Foe-Park, a round hill completely
clothed in wood *, two fmall iflets interrupt the
line
* As one province of the Guide, is to point out the charac-^
teriftic features, and diftinguifhed parts of this lake, in order
tp exhibit the beft landfcape picture to the arrift, and to give- the

THE LAKES. 89
line of fhore, and charm the eye In the paflage
from Vicar's-Ifle to Ramps-Holme. Another
iflet, above St. Herbert's-Ifland, has a fimilar effedt.
the moft pleafure and entertainment to the company who
make the tour, the author has taken all poffible care to
fecure thefe ends in his choice of ftations. Yet there is one
impediment attends his deferiptions, which will, in part, pre
vent their permanency, and that is, the annual fall of timber
and coppice wood, and the frequent removal of the picturefque
trees, which take place on the borders of the lakes. Thefe
accidents, however, as they cannot be prevented, muft be ali
lowed for by the candid traveller, where he finds the original
differing in thefe refpects from the account given of it in the
book. The fall of Crow-Paik, on Derwent-water, has long been
regretted. And the late fall of Lord Egr— .-m — t's woods
has denundated a confiderable part of the weftern border of
the lake. Nor is Mr. Gray's beautiful defcription of Foe-
Park above mentioned, to be now verified. And alas ! the
waving woods of Barrow-Side and Barrow-Gill, are no more.
It is true that the painter, by the creative power of his
pencil, can fupply fuch deficiencies in the features of his land
fcape, but the plaftic power of nature, or the careful hand of
induftry, directed by tafte and judgement, can only make up
fuch loffe6 to the vifitors of the lakes.
Thus much was thought proper to be fubjoined in this
place, as an apology, once foi" all, for the cafual differences
of this kind, that may be found between the deferiptions
given of thefe lakes in this manual, and their real appearance
at any future time.
f_ This note is formed from matter of the author's, intended
to have been prefixed, by way of advertifement, to the be
ginning of the fecond edition. X>]

9o A GUIDE TO
effeft. Allidea of river or outlet is here exclud
ed ; but, over a neck of undulated land, finely
fcattered with trees, diftant water is juft feen, be
hind Lord's-Ifland. The white church of Crof-
thwaite is here vifible, under Skiddaw, whic forms
the ftrongeft back-ground. The oppofite fhore is
bounded by a range of hills, down to the entrance
of Newland vale, where Cawfey-Pike and Thorn-
thwaite rife in Alpine pride, out-done only by
their fupreme lord, Skiddaw. Their fkirts defcend
iri gentle flopes, and end in cultivated grounds.
The whole of the weftern coaft is beautiful beyond
what words can exprefs, and the north end exhi
bits what is moft gentle and pleafing in landfcape.
The fouthern extremity of the lake is a violent
contrail to all this. Falcon-crag, an immenfe
rock, hangs over your head, and upwards, a foreft
of broken pointed rocks, in a femicircular fweep,
towering inward j form the moft horrid amphithe
atre that ever eye beheld in the wild forms
of convulfed nature. The immediate margin of
the lake is, however, a fweet variegated fhore of
meadow and pafture, up to the foot of the rocks.
Over a border of hedge-row trees, Lowdore-houfe
is feen, under Hallow-ftone crag, a Hoping rock,
whofe back is covered with foft vegetation. Be
yond it appears the awful craggy rocks that con
ceal the pafs into Borrowdale, and at their feet a
ftripe of verdant meadow, through which the Der
went ferpentizes to the lake in filence. The

THE LAKES. 91
The road is along Barrowfide, on the margin
©f the lake, narrow, yet fafe. It foon enters a
glade, through which the lake is fweetly feen by
turns. In approaching the ruins of Gowdar-crag,
which hangs towering forward, the mind recoils
at the fight of the huge fragments of crags, piled
up on both fides, which are feeri through a thicket
of rocks and wood. But there is nothing of the
danger -remaining that Mr. Gray apprehended
here ; the road being carefully kept open. Pro
ceed-by the bridge of one arch, over -Park-gill,
and another over Barrow-beck. Here Gowdar-
crag prefents itfelf in all its terrible majefty of
rock, trimmed, with trees that hang from its nu
merous fiffures. Above this is feen a towering -
grey rock, rifing majeftically rude, and near it,
Shuttenoer, a fpiral rock not lefs in height, hang
ing more forward over its bafe. Betwixt thefe,
an awful chafm is formed, through which the
waters of Watanlath are hurled. This is the
Niagara of the lake, the renowned cataract of
Lowdore *. To fee this, afcend to an opening in
the grove, directly above the millf. It is the
misfortune
* I do-not know that the height of this cataract has been
ascertained, but when viewing it, the reader may like to have
it recalled to his mind, that Carver fays, the fall of Niagara
does not exceed 140 feet.
f The view of Lowdore, engraved for this work, is taken
from the lake. * '

92 A GUIDE TO
misfortune of this celebrated water-fall to fail
entirely in a -dry feafon. The wonderful fcenes,
peculiar to this" part, continue to the gorge of
Borrowdale*, and higher; and Caftle-crag may
be feen, in the centre of the amphitheatre, threat.
ening to block up the pafs it once defended. The
village of Grange is under it, celebrated as well for
its hofpitality to Mr. Gray, as for its fweet roman
tic fite. And to affirm that all that Mr. Gray fays
of the young farmer at Grange, is ftrictly applica
ble to the inhabitants of thefe mountainous regions
in general, is but common juftice done to the me
mory of repeated favours.

-Hail facred flood !

May ftill thy hofpitable fwains be bleft
In rural innocence ; thy mountains ftill
Teem with the fleecy race ; thy tuneful woods
For ever flourifh ; and thy vales look gay.
Armflrong on Health.
On the fummit of Caftle-crag are the remains of
a fort ; and much freeftone, both red and white,
has been quarried out of the ruins. Not long fince,
a lead pan with an iron bow was taken out of
them, and two maffes of fmelted iron, which pro
bably were from the bjoomery at the foot of the
Stake in Borrowdale. The fort has moft likely
been of Roman origin, to guard the pafs, and fe-
cure the treafure contained in the bofom of thefe
mountains.
* This fcene is the fubject of No. 3. oi Mr, Farington's
views.

THE LAKES. 9.3
mountains. The Saxons, and after them, the
Furnefs monks, maintained this fort for the fame.
purpofe. All Borrowdale was given to the monks
of Furnefs, probably by one of the Derwent fa.
mily, and Adam de Derwentwater gave them free
ingrefs and egrefs, through all his lands*. The
Grange was, the place where they laid up their
grain and their tithe, and alfo the fait they made
at the fait fpriag, of which works there are ftill
fome veftiges remaining, below Grange. The
length of the caftellum - from eaft to weft is about
70 yards, from fouth to north about 40 yards.
STATION IV. From the top of Caftle-cfag
in Borrowdale there is a moft aftonifhing view of
the lake and vale of Kefwick, fpread out to the
north in the moft pidturefque manner. Every
bend of the river is diftindtly feen, from the pafs
of Borrowdale, till it joins the lake ; the lake
itfelf, fpotted with iflands ; the moft extraordinary
line of fhore, varied with all the furprifing accompa
niments of rock and wood ; the village of Grange
at the foot of the Crag, and the white houfes of
Kefwick, with Crofthwaite church at the lower
end of the lake; behind thefe, much cultivation,
with a beautiful mixture of villages, houfes, cots,
and farms, ftanding round the fkirts of Skiddaw,
Which rifes in the grandeft manner, from a verdant
bafe, and clofes this profpect in the nobieft ftile
of nature's true fublime. From the fummit of
this
* Antiquities of Furnefs, page 106.

94 A GUIDE TO
this rock, the views are fo Angularly great and
pleafing, that they ought never to be omitted*
The afcent is by one of the narrow paths, cut in
the fide of the mountain, for carrying down the
flate that is quarried on its top.
The view to the north, or the vale of Kefwick,
is already defcribed ; that to the fouth, lies in
Borrowdale. The river is feen winding upward
from the lake, through the rugged pafs, to where
it divides, and embraces a triangular vale, com
pletely cut into inclofures of meadow, enamelled
with the fofteft verdure, and fields waving with
fruitful crops. This truly fecreted fpot is com
pletely furrounded by the moft horrid, romantic
mountains that are in this region of wonders ;
and whoever omits this coup d' oeil, hath probably
feen nothing equal to it.
The views here, taken in the glafs, when the
fun fhines are amazingly fine.
This picture is reverfed from the fummit of
Latrigg. Mr. Gray was fo much intimidated with the
accounts of Borrowdale, that he proceeded no
farther than Grange. But no fuch difficulties as
he feared are now to be met with. The road into
Borrowdale is improved fince his time, at leaft as
far as is neceffary for any one to proceed to fee
what

THE LAKES. f5,
what is curious. It ferpentizes through the pafs:
above Grange,; and, though upon the edge of a
precipice that hangs over the river, it is neverthe
lefs, fafe. This river brings no mixture of muct
from the mountains of naked rock, and runs,in a
channel of flate and granite, as clear as cryftal.
The water of all the lakes in thefe parts is clear ;
but the Derwent only is pellucid. In it the fmalleft
pebble is feen at a great depth, nearly as in the
open air.
The rocky fcenes In Borrowdale are moft
fantaftic, and the entrance rugged. One rock
elbows out, and turns the road diredtly againft
another. Bowdar-ftone, on the right, in the very
pafs, is a mountain of itfelf, and the road winds
round its bafe *. Here rock riots over rock, and
mountain interfedting mountain, forms one grand
femicircular fweep. Extenfive woods deck their
fteep fides; trees grow from pointed rocks, and
rocks appear like trees. Here the Derwent, rapid
as the Rhone, rolls his cryftal ftreams through all
this labyrinth of embattled obflacles. Indeed, the
fcenes here are fublimely terrible, the affemblage
of magnificent objects fo flupendoufly great, and
the arrangement fo extraordinary curious, that they
muft excite the moft fenfible feelings of wonder and
* This loofe ftone is of prodigious bulk. It lies like a
(hip on its keel. — Its length is 6z feet ; its circumference 84.
Its folidity is about 23099 feet, and its weight about 1771
tons.

9fj A GUIDE TO
and furprife, and at once imprefs the mind with
reverential awe and admiration.
The moft gigantic mountains that form the
outline of this tremendous landfcape, and inclofe
Borrowdale, are Eagle-crag, Glaramara, Bull-crag*
and Serjeant-crag. On the front of the firft, the
bird of Jove has his annual neft *, which the
dafefmen are careful to rob, but not without
hazard to the affailant, who is let down from the
fummit of this dreadful rock by a rope of twenty
fathoms, or more, and who is obliged to defend
himfelf from the attacks of the parent birds dur
ing his defcent. The devaftation made on the
fold in the breeding feafon, by one eyrie, is com
puted at a lamb a day, befides the carnage made
on the ferae naturd. Glaramara is a mountain
of perpendicular naked rock, immenfe in height,
and much broken. It appears in the weftern can
ton, and outline of the pidture. Bull-crag and
Serjeant-crag are in the centre, and their rug
ged fides concealed with hanging woods. The
* Or in more poetical terms.
Here his dread feat the royal bird hath made,
To awe th' inferior fubjects of the fhade,
Secure he built it for a length of days
Impervious, but to Phoebus' piercing rays ;
His young he trains to eye the folar light,
And foar beyond the fam'd Icariac flight. Killarmy,

THE LAKES. 97
, The road continues good, to Rofthwaite, the
firft village in this romantic region, where it
divides. That on the right leads to the wad-mines-,
and to Ravenglafs; that on the left, to Hawkf
head. Amidft thefe tremendous fcenes, of rocks
and mountains, there is a peculiar circumftance of
confolation to the traveller, that diftinguifhes this
from other mountainous tracts, where the hills are
divided by bogs and moffes often difficult to pafs,
which is, that the moffes here, are on the tops of
the mountains, and a way over, or round them, is
never very difficult to find. The inhabitants of
the dales are ferved with turf-fuel from thefe moffes,
and the manner of procuring it is very fingular :
a man carries on his back a fledge to the top of
the mountain, and condudts it down the moft
awful defcents, by placing himfelf before it to
prevent its running amain. For this purpofe a
narrow furrow is cut in the mountain's fide, which
ferves for a road to diredt the fledge, and to pitch
the conducter's heel in. — A fledge holds one half
bf what a horfe can draw on good road. i
The mountains here are feparated by wooded
glens, verdant dells, and fertile vales, which,'
befides forming a pleafing contrail, relieve the
imagination with delighted ideas, that the inhabi
tants of thefe rude regions are far removed from
the want of theneceffaries of life, for themfelves,'
their herds, and flocks, during the exclufion
i^onths from the reft of the community, by the,
h • winter

9& A GUIDE TO
winter fnows. About Rofthwaite, in the centre*
of the dale, fields wave with crops, and meadows'
are enamelled with flowery grafs. This little
delightful Eden is marked with every degree of
induflry by the laborious inhabitants, who partake
of nothing of the ferocity of the country they live
in. For they are hofpitable, civil and communi
cative, and readily and chearfully give afliflance
to ftrangers who vifit their regions. On miffing'
a tract I was directed to obferve, I have been
furprifed by the dale-lander from the top of a rock,
waving me back, and offering me a fafe condudt
through all the difficult parts, and who blufhed at
the mention of a reward. Such is the extenfive
influence of virtue in the minds of thofe that are
leaft acquainted with fociety *.
The fhepherds only are converfant in the tra
ditional annals of the mountains, and with all the
fecrets of the myfterious reign of chaos and old
night ; and they only can give proper information
concerning their arcana : for others who live
almoft within the fhadow of thefe mountains, are
often ignorant of their names. Return
* In parts fo fequeftered from the world, the vulgar lan
guage (as well as manners) may be fuppofed to continue very
little altered from what it has been for many ages, and to be
what was once generally ufed through the country. And
In order a little to gratify the curiofity of the reader, in Ar
ticle X. of the Addenda may be feen a fpecimen of the com--
aion Cumberland dialect.

THE LAKES. 9g
Return to Kefwick, by Grange, and if the fun
fhines in the evening, the difplay of rock bri the1
oppofite fhore, from Caftle-Rock to Wallow-Crag,
is amazingly grand. The parts are the fame as
in the morning ride, but the difpofitioiis entirely
hew. The cryftal furface of the lake reflecting
waving woods and rocks, backed by the fineft
arrangement of lofty mountains, interfecting and
rifing above each other in great variety of forms,
is a fcene not to be equalled elfewhere. The
whole ride down the weftern fide is pleafant,'
though the road is biit indifferent.
Whoever chufes an Alpine journey of a very
extraordinary nature, may return through Borrow
dale to Amblefide, or Hawkfhead. A guide will
be neceffary from Rofthwaite, over. the ftake of
Borrowdale (a fteep mountain fo called) to Lang-
dale chapel. This ride is the wildeft that can be
imagined, for the fpace of eight miles *. Above
fa 2 the
* Every part of nature has fomething to recommend it to
the obfervation of the fufceptible and ingenious. A walk
or ride, on the fummits of mountains, will afford a fpecies of
ideas, which, though often neither pf the focial nor luxuriant
kind, will, neverthelefs, greatly affect and entertain. The
large unvatiegated features of thefe hills, their elevation, and
even their defolate appearance, are all fources of the fublime.
And, in a publication of this kind, a word or two refpecting
their nature and characteriftic properties, feems as requifite,
as on feveral other fubjects, which are here difcuffed at fome
length, The

iqo A GUIDE TO
the cultivated tradl, the dale narrows, but the'
fkirts of the mountains are covered with* the fweet
eft verdure, and have once waved with aged
Wood. Many large roots ftill remain, with fome
fcattered trees. Juft
The mountains among which thefe lakes are fituated, are
formed in general of row' forts of rock, or ftone. The moft
prevailing kind is a blue rag, and, where it appears, the paf-
turage which is found among it is generally inclined to be
moffy, lingy, and wet. Thefe particulars and a number of
fwampy patches, or pits of turbary, give the face of thefe
mountains a ratherly favage and deprefling look ; and the in-
difpofition of their foils readily to imbibe the waters which;
fall in rains, is the occafion of the number of temporary ca
taracts which channel their fides. .
The other kind of hills confift of limeflone ; and though ge
nerally of inferior height, their furface is infinitely more plea-
ling. They are perfectly dry, and the bent, or grafs, which
cover their glades is peculiarly fine. Where this is not found,
the bare rocks take place, and appear in every fantaftic form,
which may be fuppofed to have arifen from fome violent con-
cuffion, to which the earth has heretofore been fubject. But,
the •ahitenefs and neatnep of thefe rocks take off every idea of
Horror that might be fuggefted by their bulk or form. From
the nature of the foil, and the nnmber of communicating clefts
of the rocks underground, they become foon dry after the
heavieft rains ; and though they difeover no ftreams of water
iffuing from their fides, a number of the moft pellucid ones
imaginable are feen bubbling out among the inclofures round
their bafes. On thefe accounts the face of fuch hills always
appears Angularly lightfome and chearful. And, on a fine
farnmer day, there is little doubt but that the curious ftranger
would find a -walk or ride on the fummits (though confifting. of

THE LAKES- io*
Juft where the road begins to afcend the flakes
are faid td**be the remains of a bloomery, clofe by
the
of nothing but ftone and turf) attended with uncommon plea
fure. If he be of a poetical turn, he will fee fome of the fe-
reneft haunts for the fhepherd, that ever fancy formed ; if
of a philofophic turn, he may be equally delighted with con
templating feveral evident figns of the Mofaie deluge, and of
the onee-foft Jlate of the calcarious matter which is now har
dened into rock. — But our limits will not permit us to pur-
fue the fubject.
The greateft quantity of limeftone hills contained in this
tour, lie within the diftridt bounded by Kendal, Witherflack,
Kellet, and Hutton-Roof. And the moft beautiful of them
as feen at a diftance, are Farlton and Arnfide knots, Wither-
flack-Scar, and Warton-Crag. The two firft have their high
eft parts, which are nearly rounded, covered in a great mea
fure with fmall fragments of limeftone (called^/Ji/Zow) which
gives them at all times an uncommon and -beautiful appear
ance. But at the latter end of the year, when the foliage of
the copfes on their fides, and the grafs which is interfperfed
along their glades near their tops, have gained an olive hue,
no objects of the kind can appear more elegantly coloured.
Farltott-knot, efpecially, at that time of the year, as feen
from Burton church-yard, exhibits a brightnefs and harmony
of colouring, which could littk be expected fo refult from a
mixture of grafs, wood, and ftone.
A travelling party defirous of being gratified with the
pleafure of o'ne of thefe rides, may have it in perfection by
going upon Fatiton knot, from Burton, through Claythrop,
on traverfing the heights of Warton-crag ; both of which
mountains, befides the particulars here mentioned, afford very
extenfive views, including part of the ocean, of a country
abounding with agreeable images of rural nature.

lb? A GUIDE TO
the Water-fall on the left ; but no tradition relates
at what time it was laft worked. This I could
never verify from any vifible remains. The mi
neral was found in the mountain, and the wood
ufed in fmelting, had covered their fteep fides.
The maffes of iron found on Caftle-Crag, were
probably fmelted here. Cataracts and water-falls
abound on all fides, A fucceffion of water-falls
will meet you on the afcent up the flake, and
others will accompany you down the moft dread
ful defcent in Langdale, The fcenes on the
Borrowdale fide are in part fylvan and paftoral.
On the fide of Langdale entirely rocky. The
ftake exhibits a miniature of very bad' Alpine
road, acrofs a mountain, juft" not perpendicular,
and about five miles over. The road makes many
traverfes fo clofe, that at every flexure it feems
almoft to return into itfelf, and fuch as are advanc
ing in different traverfes, appear to go different
ways. In defcending the ftake, on the Langdale
fide, a cataract accompanies you on the left, with
all the horrors of a precipice. Langdale-Pike3
called Pike-a-ftickle, and Steel-Pike, is an inac-
ceflible pyramidal rock, and commands the whole.
Here nature feems to have difcharged all her ufe.
lefs load of matter and rock, when form was firft
impreffed on chaos. . Pavey-Ark is a hanging
rock 600 feet in height, and under it is Stickle^
tarn, a large bafon of water, formed in the bofom
of the rock, and which pours down in a cataract
at Mill-beck. Below this, Whitegill-Crag opens ¦ to'

THE LAKES. 103.
to the centre, a dreadful yawning fiffure. Beyond
Langdale chapel the vale becomes more pleafing,
and the road is good to Amblefide or Hawkfhead,
by Scalewith-Bridge.
Mr. Gray was much pleafed with an evening
view under Crow-park. " In the evening," fays
he, " I walked alone down to the lake, by the
fide of Crow-park, after fun-fet, and faw the fo-
lemn colouring of the night draw on, the laft
gleam of funfhine fading away on the hill tops,
the deep ferene of the waters, and the long fha-
dows of the mountains thrown acrofs them, till
they nearly touched the hithermoft fhore. At a
diftance were heard the murmurs of many water
falls not audible in the day-time ; I wifhed for the
moon, but fhe was dark to me and filent,
" Hid in her vaeant interlunar cave."
STATION V. This view is feen to much*
greater advantage^ from the fide of Swinfide, a
little before fun-fet, where the vale and both the
lakes are in full view, with the whole extent of
rocky fhore of the upper, and the flexures of the
lower lake. And when the laft beams of the fun
reft on the purple fummit of Skiddaw, and the
deep fhade of Wythop's wooded brows is ftretched
over the lake, the effect is amazingly great.
STATION VI. From Swinfide, continue the
walk

it 04 A GUIDE TO
walk by Foe-park. This is a fweet evening walk,
and had the fun fhone out, Mr. Gray would have
perceived his miftake in being here in the morn
ing. " October 5," he writes, " I walked through
the meadows and corn-fields to the Derwent, and
croffmg it, went up- How-hill; it looks along
Baffenthwaite-water, and fees at the fame time the
courfe of the river, and part of the upper lake,
with a full view of Skiddaw; then I took my way
through Portinfcale Village to the park (Foe-park}
a hill fo called, covered entirely with wood ; it is
all a mafs of crumbling flate ; paffed round its
foot, between the trees and the edge of the water,
and came to a peninfula that juts out into the
lake, and looks along it both ways ; in front rifes
Wallow-crag and Caftle-hill, the town, the road
to Penrith, Skiddaw, and Saddle-back.— After
dinner walked up Penrith road," &c
.STATION VIL Another feled ftation for a
morning view is on Latrigg, a foft green hill, that
interpofes between the town and Skiddaw. The.
afcent is by Monk's-hall, leaving Ormathwaite on
the left, and following the mountain road about
due eaft, till you approach the gate in the flone-
wall inclofure ; then flant the hill to the right,
looking towards Kefwick, till you gain the brow
of the hill, which exhibits a fine terrace of ver
dant turf, as fmooth as velvet. Below you rolls
the Greeta, and, in its courfe, vifits the town,
before it joins the Derwent, where it iffues from the

THE LAKES. 105
the lake, and then their united ftreams are feeu
meandering through the vale, till they meet the
floods of Baffenthwaite, under the verdant fkirts
©f Wythop brows.
The profpedt to the fouth is the reverfe of that.
from Caftle-crag. The view is full into the rocky
jaws of Borrowdale, through which the Derwent
is feen pouring his cryftal ftream, and, after
winding through fome verdant meadows, which
fkirt the rocky coaft, joining the lake at Lowdore.
The lake itfelf is feen in its full extent, on all
fides, with variety of fhore, and its bofom fpotted
with diverfity of iflands. Caftle-crag, in Borrow
dale, ftands firft of all the forefl of embattled
rocks, whofe forked heads, reared to the fky,
fhine in the fun like fpears of burnifhed fleel. In
the rear, Langdale-pike, advancing to the clouds
his cone-like head, overlooks them all. What
charms the eye in wandering over the vale is,
that not one ftraight line offends. The roads alj
ferpentize round the mountains, and the hedges
wave with the inclofures. Every thing is thrown
into fome path of beauty, or agreeable line of
nature. But to defcribe every pidturefque view
that this region of landfcape prefents, would be
ar> endlefs labour. And, did/ language furnifh
expreflion to convey ideas of the inexhauflible
variety that is found in the many grand confti.
tuent objects of thefe magnificent fcenes, the ima
gination would be fatigued with the detail, and
defcriptiori

106 A GUIDE TO
defcription weakened by redundancy. It is more
pleafing to fpeculative curiofity to difeover of itfelf
the differences among fuch fcenes as approach the
neareft in likenefs, and the agreement between
fuch as appear moft difcordant, than to be in
formed of them. This fport of fancy, and exer
cife of tafte, arifing from felf-information, has the
greateft effect on the mind, and the province of
the Guide is chiefly to point out the ftation, and
leave to the company the enjoyment of refledtion,
and the pleafures of the imagination.
Return to the gate, and enter the inclofure.
Proceed, as foon as you can, to the right, having
the wall at fome diftance, till you arrive at the
brink of a green precipice ; there you will be enter
tained with the noife of the rapid Greeta (roaring
through a craggy channel), that in a run of two
miles exhibits an uncommon appearance, forming
twelve or more of the fineft bends and ferpentine
curves that ever fancy penciled. , The point for
viewing this uncommon fcene, is diredtly above the
bridge, which hangs gracefully over the river.
The town of Kefwick appears no where to greater
advantage than from this ftation. Helvellyn, in
front, overlooks a vaft range of varied hills, whofe
rocky fides are rent with many fiffures, the paths of
fo many rills and roaring cataradts, that echo
through the vales, and fwell the general torrent.
To the eaft, Crofs- Fell is difcerned like a cloud of
l&lue mift, hanging over the horizon. In the
middle

THE LAKES. 107
sniddle fpace, Mell-Fell, a green pyramidal hill, is
n fingular figure. The eye wandering over Caftle-
Rigg will difeover the druid-temple on the fouthern
fide of the Penrith road. Return to the path that
leads down the ridge of the hill to the eaft, and,
arrived at the gate that opens into a crofs road,
defcend to the Tight, along the precipitous bank
of a brawling brook, Glenderaterra-beck, that is
heard tumbling from the mountain, and concealed
by the woods that hang on its fteep banks. In
the courfe of the defcent, remark Threlkeld-Pike,
browned with ftorms, and rent by a dreadful wedge
like rock, that tends to the centre. There are
many paftoral cots, and rural feats, fcattered round
the cutivated fkirts of this fide of the mountains
of Skiddaw and Saddle-Back, fweetly placed and
pidturefque. The northern fide is lefs hofpitable,
being more precipitous, and much concealed in
fhade. From the bridge the road leads to Threl-
keld, and falls into the Penrith rOad, four miles
from Kefwick. The laft,mentioned brook, Glen-
deraterra, divides Skiddaw from Saddle-Back,
called here Threlkeid-Fell. From the front of
Mr. Wren's houfe, the eye will be delighted with
the vale of St. John, fweetly fpread out in rural
beauty between two ridges of hills, Lothwaite and
Naddle-Fells, which, in appearance, join together
juft behind the Caftle-Rocks. Thefe in the ceritre
point of view, have the fhew of magnificent ruins.
A river is feen on both fides of the vale, lengthen
ing its courfe in meanders, till it meets Threlkeld- water,

r«8 A GUIDE TO
water, or Glenderamackin-beck, at New-Bridge9
where it takes the name of Greeta. This pidtur*
is improved at the brow of the hill, on the weftern
fide of the houfe. Here the Greeta is feen from
fhe bridge, running under tbe hill where you
ftand, and on the right, coming forth in a fine
deep-channeled ftream, between fteep wooded
banks. In a field on the left, near the fecond
mile-poft, ftands confpicuous, the above mention
ed wide circus of rude flones ; the awful monu
ment of the barbarous fuperftition which enflaved
the minds of ancient times. Mr. Pennant has in
his poffeflion an excellent drawing of thefe druid-r
ical remains.
STATION VIII. Another ftation remains,
and which ought to be an evening one, in the
vicarage garden. Mr. Gray" took it in his glafs
from the horfing block, and fpeaks of it thus :
" From hence I got to the parfonage a little before
fun-fet, and faw in my, glafs a pidture, that if I
could tranfmit to you, and fix it in all the foftnefs
of its living colours, would fairly fell for a thou-
fand pounds. This is the fweeteft fcene I can yet
difcover in point of paftoral beauty ; the reft are
in a fublimer ftile."
The leading parts of this pidture, are over a
rich cultivated fore-ground, the town of Kef
wick feen under a hill, divided by grafs inclofures,
its fummits crowned with wood. More to the
eaft,

THE LAKES. io9
eaft, Caftle-Rigg is fweetly laid out, and over it
fweeps in curves the road to Amblefide. Behind
that, are feen, the range of vaft mountains defcend
ing from- Helvellyn. On the weftern fide the
chaos of mountains heaped upon mountains, that
fecrete the vale of Newland, make their appear
ance, and over them^Cawfey-Pike prefides. Leav
ing thefe, the eye meets a well wooded hill on the
margin of the lake, fhining in aft the beauties of
foliage, fet off with every advantage of form*
Next, a noble expanfe of water, broken' juft in the
centre by a large ifland dreffed in wood ; another
cultivated and fringed with trees, and a third with
a hut upon it, ftript of its ornamental trees, by the
unfeeling hand of avarice *. On the eaftern fide,
a bold fhore, fteep and wooded to the water's edge,
is perceived, and above thefe, rife daring rocks in*
every horrid fhape. Alfoa ftrange mixture of wood
and rock fuGcesd one another to the fouthern ex
tremity of tbe lake, where the grand pyramidal
Caftle-Crag commands the whole, The weftern-
fhore is indented with wooded promontories, dowir
to Foe-Park, the hill firft deferibed on the lower
margin of the lake, and the mountains all. aroundy
rife immediately from its edge, but thofe that form
the outline to the fouth are very much broken,
and hence more pidturefque. — Thefe are the parts
bf the fcene Mr. Gray fays are thefweeteft he ever faw'
* This third is Vicar's Ifland, which has fince been pur-
shafed by a gentleman, who has built a large manfion, in*
made fome other improvements upon it.

lio A GUIDE TO
faw in point of paftoral beauty. But whoever"
takes this view from Ormathwaite, in a field on
the weftern fide of the houfe, will be convinced of
Mr Gray's lofs in want of information. For the
Very fpot he flood upon is there in the centre bf the
fore-ground, and makes a principal object in the
paftoral part of the pidture he praifes fo highly.
Sailing round the lake opens a hew province
for landfcape. Mr. Gray negledted it, arid Mr.
Mafon thinks he judged well. Meffrs. YoUng
and Pennant tried it, and admired it. Dr. Browrt
prefers failing, and advifes landing on every pro
montory, and anchoring in every bay*. The
tranfparent beauty of the lake is only feen in the
boat, and it is very furprifing. The bottom re-
fembles a mofaie pavement of party-coloured ftone;
The fragments of fpar at the depth of feven yards,
either fhine like diamonds, of glitter in diverfity
of colour ; and fuch is the purity of the watery
that no mud or ooze defiles its bottom. Mr. Pen
nant navigated the lake ; and as his defcription is
more compreffed than any other, and gives a dif-
tindl idea of its appearances, I fhall here fubjoin it.
" The views on every fide are very different ;
here all the poffible variety of Alpine fcenery is
exhibited, with the horror of precipice, brokeri crag,>
* The whole of Dr. Brown's defcriptive letter is inferted'
in the Addenda,- Article I.

THE LAKES. irr.
Crag, overhanging rock, or infulated pyramidal
hills, contrafted with others whofe fmooth and:
Verdant fides, fwelling into immenfe serial heights,
at once pleafe and furprife the eye.
" The two extremities of the lake afford moft
difcordant profpeets : the fouthern is a compofi-
tion of all that is horrible; an immenfe chafm
opens,, whofe entrance is divided by a rude conic
hill, once topt with a caftle, the habitation of the
tyrant of the rocks ; beyond, a feries of broken
mountainous crags, now patched with friow, foar
one above the other, overfhadowing the dark
winding deep of Borrowdale. In the receffes are
lodged variety of minerals, &c.
" But the oppofite, or northern view, is in all
fefpedts a ftrong and beautiful contrail. Skiddaw
fhews its vaft bafe, and, bounding all that part of
the vale, rifes gently to a height that finks the
neighbouring hills ; opens a pleafing front, fmooth
and verdant, fmiling over the country like a gentle
generous- lord, while the fells of Borrowdale frown
on it like a hardened tyrant.
" Each boundary of the lake feems to take
part with the extremities, and emulates their
appearance : the fouthern varies in rocks of dif
ferent forms, from the tremendous precipice of
Lady's-leap, the broken front of Falcon's-neft, to
the more diftant concave curvature of Lowdore,
an. extent of precipitous rock, with trees vegetat ing

iia A GUIDE TO
ing from their numerous fiffures, and the foarri of
a cataradl precipitating amidft.
" The entrance into Borrowdale divides the
fcene, and the northern fide alters into milder
forms ; a fait fpring once the property of the
monks of Furnefs, trickles along the fhdre ; hills
(the refort of fhepherds) with downy fronts, and'
lofty fummits, fucceed, with wood clothing their
bafes to the water's edge.
" Not far from hence the environs appear t®'
the navigator of the lake to the greateft advantage,
for, on every fide mountains clofe the profpect^
and form an amphitheatre almbft matehfefsi
" The ifles that decorate this water are finely
difpbfed, and very diftindt ; rife with gentle and
tegular curvatures! above the furface, confift of
Verdant turf, or are planted with various trees*
TFhe principal is Lord's-ifland, above five acres,
where the Ratcliff family had fome time its re- .
fidence, and, frorii this lake, took the title of
Derwent-water. *' St. Herbert's-ifle was noted for the refidence
of that faint, the bbfom friend of St. Cuthbert,
who wifhed, and obtained his defire of departing
this life on the fame day, hoar, and rnimite, with
that holy man *. "The
* " In the tegifter of Bifhop Appleby, in the year 1374, there

THE LAKES* n3
*' The water of Derwent-water is fubject to
violent agitations, and often without any appa
rent caufe, as was the cafe this day ; the weather
was calm, yet the waves ran a great height, and
the boat was toffed violently, with what is called
a bottom wind."
Dr. Brown recommends, as a Conclufion of the
tour of this lake, that it be viewed by moon-light*
He fays, " A walk by ftill moon-light (at which
time the diftant water-falls are heard in all the
Variety of found) among thefe enchanting dales^
opens a fcene of fuch delicate beauty, repofe, and
folemnity, as exceeds all defcription."
An expedition of this kind depends much upon
the choice of time in making the tour. It is
better a little before, than after the fiill moon. If
the evening be ftill, the voices bf the water-falls
are re-echoed from every rock arid cavern, in a
manner truly fingular and pleafing; The fetting
fun tips the mountain's top with the fofteft refill-*
gence ; and the rifing moon with her filver rays
juft continues in vifion the glories of its bafe.
The furface of the lake, that in the day reflects
the azure fky, the deep green woods, or hoar-
i coloured
there is an indulgence of forty days to every of the inhabi
tants of the parifh of Crofthwaite, that fhould attend the
vicar to St. Herbert's-Ifland on the 13th of April, yearly,
and there to celebrate mafs in memory of St. Herbert."
Nicolfon's Cumberland, page 85;

i<4 A GUIDE TO
coloured rocks, is now a fable mirror ftudded with
the reflected gems bf the ftarry heavens ; a plain on
which Ait penciled by the moon the faint outlines
and fhadows of the hills behind which fhe labours.
AU now is in faint -light, grave fhade, or folemn
darknefs, which apparently increafes the vaftnefs
of the objects, , and enwraps them in a folemn
horrot, that ftrikes the mind of the beholder with
reverential awe, and pleafing melancholy *. The
* Here the reader's mind may be fitly perpared for the
perufal of the following beautiful night-piece of Dr. Brown,
preferved to us by Mr. Cumberland, In the dedication of hw
Ode to the Sun.
Now funk the fun, now twilight funk, and night
Rode in het Zenith ; not a palling breeze
Sigh'd to the grove, which in the midnight ai?
Stood motionlefs, and in the peaceful floods
' Inverted hung : for now the billow flept
,. , Along the fhore, nor heav'd the deep, but fpread
A fhining mirror to the moon's pale orb,
Which dim and waining, o'er the fhadowy cliffs,
The folemn woods, and fpiry mountain tops,
Her glimmering faintnefs threw : now every eye,
Opprefs'd with toil, was drown'd in deep repofe ;•
Save that the unfeen fhephefd in his watch,
Prop'd on his crook, flood lift'ning by the fold,
And gaz'd the ftarry vault and pendant moon {
Nor voice, nor found, broke on the deep ferene,
But the foft murmur of fwift-gufhing rills,
Forth iffuing from the mountain's diftant fteep,
(Unheard till now, and now fcarce heard) proclaim'd
All things at reft, and imag'd the ftill voice
Of quiet whifpering in the ear of night.- X.

THE LAKES. ki$
The charadteriftic of this lake is, that it retains
its form viewed from any point, and never affumes
the appearance" of a river *.
The fifh here are trout, perch, pike, ahd eeh
i 2 BASSEN-
* The following iketch of the appearance of this amphi
theatre, in a hard froft, appeared in the Cumberland Pacquet,
February 10, 1 7 84.
Derwent lake has been fioieh over for feveral days, and
quantities of timber have been drawn acrofs it by horfes. The
appearance of this celebrated piece of water and the furround
ing mountains, is defcribed by numbers who have feen it, as
the moft delightful of any profpect that can be conceived.
The four iflands have been vifited by crouds of people, who
agree that the whole fcene is at prefent more awfully grand
and enchanting than in the height of fummer. The fummits
and fides of the mountains, at prefent clad with fnow, the
icicles hanging from the different cliffs, and theglaffy furface
of the lake, all thefe glittering in the fun, fill the eye with
fuch an affemblage of natural magnificence and beauty ai
beggars all defcription."
The following paflage may be worth reading here, taken
from a defcription of the curiofities in the Peak of Derby-
fcire, in the London Magazine, for October, 1778.
" Long has been the contention between the gentlemen of
Deibyfhire and Cumberland, refpecting Dovedale and Kef
wick, each claiming the fuperiority of natural beauties, and
Dr. Brown has by many been thought to carry the difpute
in favour of Kefwick. I have carefully furveyed both, with
out being a native of either country ; and if I might prefume
to be any judge of the matter, I fhould compare Dovedale
to the foft and delicate marden, and Kefwick to the bold
and fturdy Briton."

ritS A GUIDE TO1
BASSENTHWAITE -WATER.
Having feen the glory of Kefwick, the beauties
of the lake, and wonders of the environs, there
remains a pleafant ride to Oufe-bridge, in order
to vifit the lake of Baffenthwaite. Meffrs. Gray
and Pennant took the ride, but did not fee the
beauties of the lake, either for want of time ot
proper information.
Mr. Pennant fays, " Pafs along the vale of
Kefwick, and keep above Baffenfhwaite-water, at
a fmall cultivated diftance from it : this lake is a
fine expanfe of four miles in length, bounded on
one fide by high hills, wooded in many places to
their bottoms ;. on the other fide, by fields, ancL
the fkirts of Skiddaw.
" From Mr. Spedding's, of Armathwaite, at
the low extremity of the lake, you have a fine
view of the whole."
Mr. Gray allowed himfelf more time for par
ticulars. " October 6," he fays, " went in a
chaife, eight miles, along the eaft fide of Baffen-
thwaite-water, to Oufe-Bridge ; it runs directly
along the foot of Skiddaw. Oppofite to Wythop-
Brows, clothed to the top with wood, a Very
beautiful view opens down to the lake, which is
narrower and longer than that of Kefwick, lefs
broken into bays, and. without iflands ; at the foot of

THE LAKES. 117
of it, a few paces from the brink, gently Hoping
upwards, ftands Armathwaite, in a thick grove of
Scotch firs, commanding a noble view directly up
the lake. At a fmall diftance behind this, a ridge-
of cultivated hills, on which, according to the
Kefwick proverb, the fun always fhines ; the in
habitants here, on the contrary, call the vale of
Derwent-water, fhe devil's chamberpot, and pro
nounce the name of Skiddaw-Fell, which termi
nates here, with a fort of terror and averfion.
Armathwaite-houfe is a modern fabrick, not large,
and built of dark red ftone." ,
But the fingular beauties of this lake have not
before been noticed, viz. the grand finuofity of
three noble bays.
STATION I. From Armathwaite, the lower
bay is in full difplay ; a fine expanfe of water,
fpreading itfelf both ways, behind a circular pen
infula (Caftle-How) that fwells in the middle, and
is crowned with wood. In former times it has
been furrounded with water, by the lake on one
fide, and the afliftance of a brook that defcends
from Embleton, on the other. The acceflible
parts have been defended by trenches one above
another. The upper part muft have been occu
pied with building, as the vefliges of ruins are
vifible; and, like other fuch places in this region,
they were probably fecured by the firft inhabitants,
as places of difficult accefs, and of eafy defence, From

nS A GUIDE TO
From the bottom of the bay, fome waving inclo
fures rife to the fide of a green hill, and fome
fcattered houfes are feen at the upper end of a..
•fine Hope of inclofures. The banks of the lake
are fringed with trees, and under them the cryftal
water is caught in a pleafing manner. At the
north-weft corner, the Derwent iffues from the
lake, and is fpanned by a handfome ftone bridge
bf three arches. The whole weftern boundary is
the noble range of wooded hills called Wythop-
Brows. On the eaftern fhoi^e, the lake retires be
hind a peninfula, that rufhes far into the water,
and on its extreme point, a folitary oak, waving
to every wind, is moft pidturefque. This is
Scarenefs, The coaft upward is a fine cultivated
tract to the fkirts of Skiddaw. Far to the fouth,
Wallow-Crag, with all the range of rock, and
broken craggy mountains, in Borrowdale, are feen
in fine perfpedtive ; and on their outline, the fpiral
point of Langdale-Pike appears bine as glafs. The,
deep green woods of Foe-Park, and the golden
front of Swinfide, form a pleafing termination.
STATION II. Return to the road by Scare
nefs, and defcend from the houfe to the oak tree, on
the extremity of the promontory. The lake i?
here narroweft, but immediately fpreading itfelf on
both hands, forms two femicircular bays. That
on the right is a mile acrofs, ; the bay on the-left
is fmaller ; the fhore on both fides is finely varie
gated with low wood and fcattered bufhes, as is
more

THE LAKES. ti9
more efpecially the peninfula itfelf. The upper
bay is perfedtly circular, and finely wooded. In
front Wythop-Brows rife fwift from the water's
edge. The extremity of fome inclofures are pic-
turefquely feen juft over the wood, with part of a
cottage. The village of Wythop lies behind it in
an serial fite. A grafs inclofure, fcooped in the
bofom of the hanging wood, and under it a cot,
on the very brink of the lake, ftands fweetly.
The views downward are fine ; the banks high
and weddy to the bridge, of which two arches are
in fight. Behind it a white houfe is charmingly
placed. More to the right, at the head of a gentle
ilope, in the very centre of view, ftands Arma
thwaite, winged with groves ; and behind it at a
fmall diftance, are deep hanging woods, and over
them, fpreading far to the right and left, a great
reach of cultivated grounds. This termination is
rich and pleafing to the eye. Tbe view to the
fouth, is, on the upper lake, much foftened by
diftance. In the afternoon, if the fun fhines, the
appearance of the filver-grey rocks, gliftening
through the green woods that hang on their fiffures^
is moft elegant. Behind, an appendix of Skiddaw
rifes in rude form ; and over it this chief of
mountains frowns in Alpine majefty.— This view
is alfo well feen from the houfe pf Scarenefs.
STATION III. The next remarkable pro
montory is Bradnefs, a round green hill, that,
fpreading itfelf into the lake, forms a bay, with
Bownefs

jao A GUIDE TO
Bownefs to the fouth. The beft general view of
the lake is from the crown of this hill, behind the
farm houfe. Here you look over three bays
finely formed. Nothing can be imagined more
elegant than the finuofity of. this fide, contrafted
with the fteep fhore and lofty woods of the oppo
fite. The view upwards is nbt lefs charming,
being indented and wooded to the water's edge.
If thefe views are taken beginning with Bradr
nefs, then from Scarenefs, take the road to Baf-
fenthwaite-halls (a few houfes fo called), and from
the road on the north fide of the village, called
Rakes, you have a very fine view of a rich culti
vated tradt, ftretching along the banks of the lake,
and fpreading itfelf upwards to the fkirts of Skid
daw. The elevation is fuch, that every object is
feen completely, and every beauty diftinctly mark
ed. The lake appears in its full magnitude, fhaded
by a bold wooded fhore on the weft, and graced
by a fweet fpreading vale on the eaft, that termi
nates in a bold ftile under the furrounding moun
tains. The Hoping ground, to the bridge is charm
ing, and the far, extended vales of Embleton and
Ifel lie in fine perfpedtive. The river Derwent
has his winding courie-through the latter.
ANTIQUITIES. Caer-Mot is about two,
miles further to the north, on the great road to.
old Carlifle and Wigton. It is a green high
crowned hill, and on its ikirt, juft by the road fide,

THE LAKES. iai
fide, are the manifeft veftiges of a fquare encamp
ment, inclofed with a double fofs, extending from
eaft to weft, 120 paces, and from fouth to north,
100 paces. It is fubdivided into feveral canton
ments, and the road from Kefwick to old Carlifle
has crofted it at right angles. Part of the agger
is vifible where it iffues from the north fide of the
camp, till where it falls in with the line of the pre
fent road. It is diftant about ten miles from Kef
wick, and as much from old Carlifle, and is about
two miles weft of Ireby.
Camden propofes Ireby for the Arbeia of the
Romans, where the Bercarii Tigrinenfes were gar-
rifoned, but advances nothing in favour of his
opinion. The fituation is fuch as the Romans
never made choice of for a camp or garrifon, and
there remain no veftiges of either. By its being
in a deep glen, among furrounding hills, where
there is no pafs to guard, or country to protect,
a body of men could be of no ufe. On the
nothern extremity of the faid hill bf Caer-Mot, are
the remains of a beacon, and near it the veftiges;
of a fquare encampment, inclofed with a fofs and
rampart of 60 feet by 70. This camp is in full
view of Blatumbulgii (Bownefs) and Oknacum
(old Carlifle) ; and, commanding the whole extent
of the Solway-frith, would receive the firft notice
from any frontier ftation, where the Caledonians
might make an attempt to crofs the Frith, or had:
actually broke in upon the province ; and notice of

i (22 A GUIDE TO
of this might be communicated by the beacon on
Caer-Mot to the garrifon at Kefwick, by the watch
on Caftle-Crag in Borrowdale. The garrifon at
Kefwick would have the care of the beacon on the
top of Skiddaw, the mountain being of the eafieft
accefs on that fide. By this means the alarm
would foon become general, and the invaders be
either terrified into flight, or elfe the whole coun
try quickly in arms to oppofe them.
Whether thefe camps are the Arbeia, I pretend
not to fay, but that they were of ufe to the Ro -
mans, is evident ; and what the Britons thought
of them, is recorded in the name they have con.
ferred on the hill where they are fituated.
The larger camp has no advantage of fite, and
is but ill fupplied with water. The ground is of
a fpungy nature, and retains wet long, and there
fore could only be occupied in the fummer months*
They feem to have the fame relation to old Car
lifle and Kefwick, as the camp at Whitbarrow has
to old Penrith and Kefwick.
From Caer-Mot defcend to Oufe-Bridge, and
return to Kefwick up the weftern fide of the lake.
Every lover of landfcape fhould take this ride in
the afternoon ; and if the fun fhines it is exceed
ingly pleafant. The road branches off from the
great road to Cockermouth a little below the
bridge, and leads through the wood, and round
Caftle-

THE LAKES. i^
(Baftle-How. In fome places it rifes above the lake
a confiderable height, and the water is agreeably
feen at intervals through a fcreen of low wood
that decks its banks. Then the road defeends to
the level of the water, and prefents you with a
variety of furprifing views in different ftiles, that
fhew themfelves in an agreeable fucceffion, as the
eye wanders in amazement along the lakev '
STATION IV. At Beck-Wythop, the lake
fpreads out to a great expanfe of water, and its
outlet is concealed by Caftle-How. The imme
diate fliore is lined with rocks, that range along
banks completely dreffed in low wood, and ovor
them, Wythop-Brows rife almoft perpendicular.
The oppofite fhore is mUch variegated, and deeply
embayed by the bold promontories of Scarenefs,
Bc-wnefs, and Bradnefs. Juft oppofite to you, a,
little removed from the margin of the lake, and,
under a range of wood, fee the folitary church of
Baffenthwaite. Its back-ground is gloomy Ullock,
a defcendant hill of parent Skiddaw, robed in
purple heath, trimmed with foft verdure. The
whole cultivated tradt between the mountains and
the lake is feen here in all its beauty, and Skiddaw
appears no where of fuch majeftic height as frorri
this point, being feemingly magnified by the accom
paniments of the leffer hills that furround its bafe..
Over the northern extremity of this expanfe of
water, the ground rifes in an eafy Hope, and in the.
point

324 A GUIDE TO
point of beauty, Armathwaite is feated, queen of
the lake, on which fhe fmiles in graceful beauty.
On each hand are hanging woods. The fpace
between difplays much cultivation, and is divided
by inclofures, waving up the farms feen under the
fkirts of Caer-Mot, the crown-topt hill, that clofes
this fcene in the fweeteft and moft elegant manner
poffible. If the fun fhines, you may be enter
tained here for hours with a pleafing variety of
landfcapes. All the views up the lake are in a
ftile great and fublime. They are feen in the
bofom of the lake, foftened by reflection, but to
the glafs is referved the finifhed pidture, in the
truefl colouring, and moft juft perfpedtive.
As you come out of the wood, at the gate leading'
to the open fpace, there is a magnificent bird's-eye
view of Kefwick, in the centre of a grand amphi
theatre of mountains. Proceeding along the
banks of the lake, the road leads through Thorn-
ihwaiteand Portingfcaie, to Kefwick *. A morning
* On taking, leave of Baflenthwaite- water we may obferve,
that it was the firft lake that was honoured with one of thofe
amufcments called Regattas ; this was on the 24th of Auguft,
17 80. Another was exhibited on it the 1 ft of Auguft, 1 7 8 1 ,
(Whenthefwimmingftveepjlaies were introduced) ; and the laft
on the 4th of September, 1782. This fpecies of entertainment
was begun on Derwent-water, on the 28th of Auguft, 1781,
and continued thete once in every year till 1791.
That the reader who has not been prefent at one of thefe
rural fetes may form fome idea of their nature and effects, we
fubjoin

THE LAKES. 125
A morning ride up the vale of Newlandj to
BUTTERMERE.
This ride remains hitherto unnoticed, though
one of the moft pleafing and- furprifing in the
environs
fubjoin, from the Cumberland Pacquet, the following defcrip
tion of the Regatta exhibited on Derwent-water, the 6th of
September, 1782. But it will be allowed, by all who have
had an opportunity of feeing it, that every reprefentation, in
the abfence of the beauties that furround the fcene, muft fall
Infinitely fhort of the romantic grandeur it labours to hold
up to the imagination.
" At eight o'clock in the morning, a vaft concourfe of la
dies and gentlemen appeared on the fide of the Derwent lake,
where a number of marquees, extending about four hundred
yards, were erected for their accommodation. At twelve,
ftch of the company as were invited by Mr. Pocklington, paf*
fed over in boats to the ifland which bears his name ; and, on
their landing, were faluted by a difeharge of his artillery.— <
This might properly be called the opening of the Regatta :
for as foon as the echo of this difeharge had ceafed, a fignal
gun was fired, and five boats, which lay upon their oars (on
that part of the water which runs neareft the town of Kef
wick), inftantly pufhed off the fhore, and began the race.
"** A view from any of the attendant boats (of which there
were feveral) prefented a fcene which exceeds all defcription.
The fides of the hoary mountains were clad with fpedtators,
and the glaffy furface of the lake was variegated with a
number of pleafure barges ; which, tricked out in all the
gayeft colours, and glittering in the rays of a meridian fun,
gave a new appearance to the celebrated beauties of this
mat chiefs vale. The

iafj A GUIDE TO
Environs of Kefwick. Company who vifit the
Vale of Kefwick, and view its lake from Caftle-t
rigg, Latrigg, Swinfide, and the vicarage, imagine
inacceffible
" The contending boats paffed Pocklington's ifland, and
rounding St. Herbert's and Ramps-Holme, edged down by
the outfide of Lord's-Ifland, defcribing in the race almoft
a perfect circle, and, during the greateft part of it, in full
view of the company. ,
" About three o'clock, preparations were made for the
mam-attack on Pocklington's Ifland. The .fleet (confifting
of feveral barges, armed with fmall cannon and mufquets)
retired out of view, behind Friar-Crag, to prepare for action j
previous to which, a flag of truce was fent to the governor,
with a fumihons to furrender upon honourable terms* A
defiance was returned ; foon after which, the fleet was feen
advancing, with great fpirit, before the batteries, and in
ftantly forming in a curved line, a terrible cannonade began,
on both fides, accompanied with a dreadful difeharge of muf-
quetry. This continued for fome time, and being echoed
from hill to hill, in an amazing variety of founds, filled the
ear with whatever could produce aftonifhment and awe. All
nature feemed to be in an uproar, which impreffed on the
awakened imagination, the moft lively ideas of the " war of
elements, *' and *' crUfh of worlds. "
" After a fevere conflict, the enemies were driven from the"
attack in great diforder. A Feu-de-joye was then fired in
the fort, and oft repeated by the refponfive echoes. The fleet,
after a little delay, formed again, and, practifing a variety of
beaiitiful manoeuvres, renewed the attack. Uproar again
fprung up, and the deep-toned echoes of the mountains again
joined in the folemn chorus, which was heard to the diftance
of ten leagues to leeward, through the eaftern opening of
that vaft amphitheatre, as far as Appleby. << The

THE LAKES. xi)
inacceflible mountains only remain beyond th« line
of this amazing tract. But whoever takes a ride
up Newland vale*, will be agreeably furprifed with
" The garrifon at length capitulated, and the enter tain-
ments of the water being finifhed (towards the evening), the
company moved to Kefwick; to which place, from the wa
ter's edge, a range of lamps was fixed, very happily diipofed,
and a number of fire- works were played off.
"An affembly room (which has been built for the purpofe)
next received the ladies and gentlemen, and a dance concluded
this annual feftivity ; — a chain of amufements which we may
venture to affert, no other fpot can poflibly furnifh, and which
want Otily to be more univerfally known, to render this a place
of mote general refort than any other in the kingdom.
" To thofe whom nature's works alone can charm, thisfpot
will, at all times, be viewed with rapture and aftonifhment ;
but no bread however unfufceptible of pleafure, can be in
different to that difplay of every beauty which decks the an
cient vale of Kefwick on a Regatta-day."
As the permanent beauties of this matchlefs vale became
more known and frequented, this amufemcnt was laid afide :
it refembled too much the bufy fcenes from which the opu
lent wifh to retire to the enjoyment of rural delights : nor
eould it long be thought neceffary to employ the affiftance of
art, in that way, to heighten the moft exalted charms oi nature.
* Here, in a hill called Gold-fcope, are the remains of a
famous ancient copper-mine, which exhibit fome curious ex
cavations, called the Pen-Holes, One fhaft, reaching from
the top of the hill to the bottom (into which, if a large ftone
be let fall, it occafions a moft tremendous aoife) is met by a
level

t28 A GUIDE TO
with fome of the fineft folemn paftoral fcenes they
have yet beheld. Here prefent themfelves an
arrangement of vaft mountains, entirely new,
both in form and colouring of rock ; large hollow
craters fcooped in their bofoms, once the feeming
feats of raging liquid fire, though at prefent over
flowing with the pureft water, that foams down
the craggy brows ; other woods ornament their
bafe, and other lakes, clear as the Derwent, lie at
their feet. The fofter parts of thefe fcenes are ver
dant hills patched with wood, fpotted with rock,
and paftured with herds and flocks.
The ride is along Swinfide ; and having turned
the brow of the hill, and pafled the firft houfes,
through which the road leads, obferve at the gate
on the right, a view down a narrow vale, which
is pleafing in a high degree. The
level paflage, cut quite through the mountain, along which
a ftream of water (from Bank- beck) was conveyed to turn
a draining wheel, at its meeting with the fhaft,
Thefe mines were wrought in Henry 8th's time^ and fome
of the fucceeding reigns. But the metal yielding a confi
derable quantity of gold, they came to be confidered as royal
mines, and occafioned a dipute between the crown and the
duke of Somerfet, then lord of the manor, and a difconti-
Suance of the works. In 1757, Mr. Gilbert and companjr
drained them to the very bottom, at the expence of about
I00A but did not find the metal fuch, or fo plentiful, as to
encourage them to proceed on at fo prodigious a depth. X.

THE LAKES. 129
The road continues winding through a glade,
along the fide of a rapid brook, that tmribles
down a ftony channel with water as clear as cry
ftal. At the hedge-row-tree, under Rawlingend
(a brawny mountain) turn, and have a new and
pleafant view of the vale of Kefwick. The road
has then a gentle afcent, and the rivulet is heard
murmuring below. At the upper end of the culti
vated part of the vale, a green pyramidal hill,
divided into waving inclofures, looks down the
vale upon Kefwick, &c. The verdant hills on each
fide terminate in rude awful mountains, that
tower to the fkies in a variety of grotefque forms,
and on their murky furrowed fides hang many a
torrent. Above Kefkadale, the laft hpufes in
Newland, no traces of human induflry appear.
All is naked folitude and fimple nature. The
vale now becomes a dell, the road a path. The
lower parts are paftured with a motley herd ; the
middle tradl is aflilmed by the flocks ; the
upper regions (to man inacceffible) are abandoned;
to the birds of Jove; Here untamed nature holds
her reign in folemn filence, amidft the gloom an<L
grandeur of dreary folitude *. The mofning fun
K beaming
* And here the following exclamation of young Edwifi,
may be properly recalled to the reader's remembrance.
Hail, awful fcenes, that calm the troubled bread,
And woo the weary to profound repofe,
Can paffion's wildeft uproar lay to reft,
And whifper comfort to the man of woes ! Her*

130 A GUIDE TO
beaming on the blue and yellow mountains fides,
produces effects of light and fhade the moft charm
ing that ever a fon of Appelles imagined. In
approaching the head of Newland-Hawfe, on the
left, a mountain' of purple coloured rock prefents
a thoufand gaping chafms, excavated by torrents
that fall into a bafon, formed in the bofom of the
mountain, and from thence precipitating themfelves
over a wall of rock, become a brook below. In
front is a vaft rocky mountain, the barrier of the
dell, that oppofes itfelf to all further accefs. A-
mong the variety of water-falls, that diftinguifh
this awful boundary of rock, one catches the eye
at a diftance that exceeds the boafted Lowdore,
in height of rock, and unity of fall, whilft the be
holder is free from all anxiety of mind in the
approach. Not one pebble or grain of fand
offends ; but all is nature in her fweeteft trim of
verdant turf, fpread out to pleafe her votaries.
Whoever would enjoy, with eafe and fafety,
! Alpine views, and paftoral fcenes in the fublime
ftile, may have them in this morning ride.
\ The road, or rather tradt, becomes now lefs
\ agreeable
\ Here innocence may wander, fafe from foes,
And contemplation foar on feraph wings ;
O Solitude, the man who thee forgoes,
Hien lucre lures him, or ambition flings,
Shall never know the fource whence real grandeur fprings.
Beat tie's M'tnftrel, B. 2d. X.

THE LAKES. 131
agreeable than it was, for a few roods, not from
any difficulty there is in turning the fineft moun
tain turf into good road, at a fmall expence, but
from the inattention of the dalefmen, who habi
tuate themfelves to tread in the tradl made by
their flocks, and wifh for nothing better. It will
not be labour loft to walk a few roods here, and
lee a new creation of mountains, as unlike thofe
left behind, as the Andes are to the Alps. The
contrail is really ftriking, and appears at once on
the fummit of the hill. On the right, at the head
of a deep green hill, a naked furrowed mountain,
of an orange hue, has a ftrange appearance amongft
his verdant neighbours, and finks, by his height,
even Skiddaw itfelf,
Defcend the tradt on the left, arid you foon
have in fight the higheft poffible contraft in nature.
Four fpiral towering mountains,, dark, dun, and
gloomy at noon-day, rife immediately from the
weftern extremity of the deep narrow dell, and
hang over Buttermere. The more fouthern is,
by the dalefmen, from its form, called Hay-Rick ;
the more pyramidal High-Crag; the third High-
Stile ; arid the fourth, from its ferruginous colour,
Red-Pike. Between the fecond and third there is a
large crater, that, from the parched colour of the
conical mountains in whofe bofom it is formed,
appears to have been the focus of a volcafto in
fome diftant period of time, when the cories were
produced by explofion. At prefent it is the refer-
k 1 voir,

132 A GUIDE TO
voir of water that feeds the roaring cataract yot*
fee in the defcerit to Buttermere. Here all is
barrenttefs, fofttude, arid filence, only interrupted
by the murmurs of a rill, that runs unfeen m the
narrow bottom of a deep dell*. The fmooth
verdant fides of the vaft hills on the light-, have
many furrows engraven in their fides by the winter
rains ; and the fable mountains in front prefent
all the horrors of cloven rock, broken cliff, arid
mountain ftreams tumbling headlong. Some traces
of induftry obtruding themfelves at the foot of the
glen, difturb the folemn folitude with which the
eye and mind have been entertained, and point ovlt
your return to fociety ; for you how approach the
village
* There is one curious fpectacle often feen by the fhep-
herd, on the tops of thefe mountains, which the traveller may
riever chance to fee, but which is fo happily delineated in the
following ftarfza, th".t he may the lefs regret it. What I mean
is the effects of mills, which frequently involve every object
roundthe bafes of thefe eminences, and1 which, in thediflrict
oi pointed hills juft defcribed, muft be experienced in the great
eft perfection. And oft the craggy cliff he lov'd to climb,
When all in mitt the world below was loft ;
What dreadful pleafure ! there to ftand fublime,
Like fhipwreck'd mariner on defart coaft,
And view th' enormous wafte of vapour, toft
In billows length'ning to th''horfzon round,
¦Now-fcoop'd iagulphs, with mountains how embof'd ;
And here the voice of mirth and fong rebound,
Flocks, herds, and water- falls, along the hoar profound!
Minflrcl, B. I ft.

THE LAKES, ,33
village of Eytterraere, which is fituated betwixt
the lakes, andw confifts of fixteeti houfes. The
chapel here is very fmall, the ftipend not large,
for though twice augmented with the queen's
bounty, it exceeds not twenty pounds per annum.
This is one of the cures Mr. Pennant mentions ;
but the perquifites of the clog-fhoes, harden-fark,
whittle-gate, arid goofe-gate, have no better fup
port thari in fome ancient, and, probably, idle tale,
The life of the inhabitants is purely paftoral,
A few hands are employed in the flate. quarries ;
the women fpin woollen yarn, and drink tea.
Above the village you have a view of the upper
lake, two miles in length, and fhort of one in
breadth. It is terminated on the weftern fide by
the ferruginous mountain already mentioned. A
ftripe of cultivated ground adorns the eaftern fhore.
A group of houfes, called Gatefgarth, is feated on
the fouthern extremity, under the moft extraordi
nary amphitheatre of mountainous rocks that ever
eye beheld. Here we fee Honifter-Crag rife to
an immenfe height, flanked by two conic moun
tains, Fleetwith to the eaftern, and Scarf on the
weftern fide ; a hundred mountain torrents form
never-failing cataradts, that thunder and foam down
the centre of the rock, and form the lake below.
Here the rocky fcenes and mountain landfcapes
are dive.rfified and contrafted with all that ag
grandizes the object in the moft fublime ftile,.
and conftitute a pidture the moft enchanting of
any in thefe parts.
Mr

ij4 A GUIDE TO
Mr. Gray's account of Barrow-Side, and his
relation of Borrowdale, are hyperboles ; the
fport of fancy he was pleafed to indulge himfelf in.
A perfon that has croffed the Alps or Appennines
will meet here only miniatures of the huge rocks
and precipices, the vaft hills, and fnow-topt moun
tains he faw there. And though he may obferve
much fimilarity in the ftile, there is norie in the
danger. Skiddaw, Helvellyn, and Cachidecam,
are but dwarfs, when compared with Mount Mau-
dfte, above the lake of Geneva, and the guardian
mountains of the Rhone. If the roads in fome
places be narrow and difficult, they are at leaft fafe.
No villainous banditti haunt the mountains ; in
nocent people livq hi the dells. Every cottager
is narrative of all he knows ; and mountain virtue
and paftoral hofpitality are found at every farm.
This, conftitutes a pleafing difference betwixt tra
velling here and on the continent, where every
inn-holder is an extortioner, and every voiturin
an impofing rogue.
The fpace betwixt the lakes is not a mile,, and
Confifts of pafture and meadow ground, The
lower lake, called
CROMACK-WATER*,
Soon opens after you leave the village, and pafs
through an oaken grove. A fine expanfe of wa ter
* This lake abounds with the fineft char, and red trout 3
and contains alfo fome pike and perch,

THE LAKES- 135
ier fweeps away to the right under a rocky pro
montory, Randon-Knot, or Buttermere-Hawfe.
The road then ferpentizes round the rock, and
under a rugged, pyramidal, craggy mountain.
From the creft of this rock the whole extent of
the lake is difcovered. On the weftern fide the
mountains rife immediately from the water's edge,
bold and abrupt. Juft in front, between Blea-
Crag and Mellbreak (two fpiral hills), the hoarfe
refounding noife of a water-fall is heard acrofs the
lake, concealed within the bofom of the cliff,
through which it has forced its way, and when
viewed from the foot of the fall, is a moft afton
ifhing phsenomenon.
This lake is beautified with three fmall ifles.
One of rock lies juft before you. The whole
eaftern fhore is diverfified with bays, the banks
with fcattered trees, and a few inclofures, termi
nated by a hanging wood. At the foot of the
lake, a high crowned hill pufhes forward, fringed
with trees, and fweetly laid out with inclofures;
and above it, on a cultivated Hope, is the chape
of Lowes-water, furrounded with fcattered farms.
Behind ally Low-Fell raifes his verdant front ; a
fweet contrail to his murky neighbours, and a
pleafing termiilation, either as feen from the top
of this rock, or from the bofom of the lake.
The chain of pyramidal mountains on each fide
of this narrow^ vale, are extremely pidturefque. They

136 A GUIDE TO
They rife from djftindt bafes, and fwell into the
poll grotefque forms of ferrated or broken, rocks,
Thefe lakes are of a much greater depth than
Derwent-water, and this may be the only reafon
why they have char, and fome others have not.
T,he char in the fummer rhonths retire to the
deeps, probably to avoid the heat, , The water-
here is clear, but riot fo tranfparent as the lake of
Derwent. The outlet is at the north-eaft corner,
by the river Cocker, over which is a handfome
ftone bridge, of four arches. This lake is four
miles in length, and in fome places almoft half a,
mile oyer,
LOWES-WATER.
Proceed from the bridge, by High-Crofs, tb
Lowes-water, Haying paffed through a gate that
leads to the common, the lake fpreads out before
you, a mile in length, and of an equal breadth of
about a quarter of a mile. The extremities are
rivals in beauty of hanging woods, little groves,
and waving inclofures, with farms feated in the
fweeteft points of view. The fouth end is over
looked by lofty Mellbreak, at whofe foot, a white
houfe, within fome grafs ineldfures, under a few
trees, ftands in the point of beautyV The eaftern
fhore is open, and indented with fmall bays ; but
the oppofite fide is more pleafing. Carling-Knot
preferits a broad pyramidal front, bf fwift afcent,
covered with foft vegetation, and fpotted with
many

THE LAKES. 137
many aged, folitary thorns. On each fide, the'
outlines wave upward in the fineft manner, ter
minating in a cone of grey rock, patched with
verdure. This lake, in oppofition to all the other lakes,
has its courfe from north to fouth, and under
Mellbreak falls into Cromack-water. It is of no
great depth, and without char ; but it abounds
with pike and perch, and has fome trout.
An evening view of both lakes, is from the fide
of Mellbreak, at the gate, under a coppice -of
oaks, in the road to Ennerdale. Nothing exceeds,
in compofition, the parts of this landfcape. They
are all great, and lie in fine order of perfpective.
If the view be taken from the round knoll at the
|ower end of the lake, the appearance of the
mountains that bound it is aftonifhing. You have
Mellbreak on the right, and Grafmire on the left,
and betwixt them, a ftupendous amphitheatre of
mountains, whofe tops are all broken and diflimi-.
lar, and of different hues, and their bafes fkirted
with wood, or clothed with verdure. In the cen
tre point of this amphitheatre, is a huge pyramidal
broken rock, that feems with its figure to change
place, as you move acrofs the fore-ground, and
gives much variety to the fcenes, and alters the
pidlure at every pace. In fhort, the pidturefque
views in this diftridt are many ; fome mixt, others
purely fublime, but all furprife and pleafe. The
genius

138 A GUIDE TO
i
genius of the greateft adepts in landfcape, might
here improve in tafte and judgment; and the
moft enthufiaftic ardour for paftoral poetry and
painting, will here find an inexhauftible fource of
fcenes and images.
When the roads to Ennerdale and Wast-
water are improved, they may be taken in this
morning ride *.
From the bridge, at the foot of the lake, afcend
the road to Brackenthwaite. At the ale-houfe,
Scale-hill, take a guide to the top of the rock,
above Mr. Bertie's woods, and have an entirely
new view of Cromack-watar. The river Cocker
is feen winding through a beautiful and rich cul
tivated vale, fpreading far to the north, variegated
with woods, groves, and hanging grounds, in
every pleafing variety. The moft fingular object
in this vale of Lorton and Brackenthwaite, is a
high crown-topt rock that divides the vale, and
raifes a broken craggy head over hanging woods,
that fkirt the Hoping fides, which are cut into
waving inclofures, and varied with groves and
patches of coppice wood. To the weft, a part of
Lowes-water is feen, under a fringe of trees at
High-Crofs. Behind you, awful Grafmire (the
Skiddaw of the vale) frowns in all the majefty of
, furrowed
* An account of a ride from Kefwick to Ennerdale has been
communicated by a friend of the publifhers, and is inferted
in the Addenda, Article IX.

THE LAKES. 139
furrowed rock, cut almoft perpendicularly to the
centre by the water-falls of ages. The fwell of a
cataract is here heard, but entirely concealed with
in the gloomy recefs of a rocky dell, formed by
the rival mountains, Grafmire and White-Side.
At their feet, lie the mighty ruins, brought down
from the mountains, by the memorable water-
fpout, that deluged all the vale, in September,
1760 *. After
* I don't know whether an account of the effects of this
itormhas been publifhed ; but the following defcription of a
fimilar one which happened in St. John's vale, given as the
moft authentic that has yet appeared, by a native of the place,
may here merit a perufal.
In the evening of the 22d of Auguft, 174.9, t'lat day hav
ing been much hotter than was ever known in thefe parts, a
ftrange and frightful noife was heard in the air, which con
tinued for fome time, to the greatlurprife of the inhabitants,
founding over them like a ftrong wind, though they could
not perceive it. This was fucceeded by the moft terrible
claps of thunder, and inceffant flalhes of lightning breaking
over their heads. At the fame time the clouds poured down
whole torrents of water on the mountains to the eaft, which
in a very little time fwelled the channels of their rivulets and
brooks, fo as to overflow every bank, and overwhelm almoft
every obftacle in their way. In a moment they deluged the
whole valley below, and coveted with ftones, earth, and fand
many acres of fine cultivated ground. Several thoufands of
huge fragments of broken rocks were driven by the im-
petuofity of thefe dreadful cataracts. into the fields below, and
fuch was their bulk, that fome of them were more than ten
ihorfes could move, and one fairly m'eafured nineteen yards in
circumference.

!4« A GUIDE TO
After this, the mountains become humble hills,
and terminate the fweet vale, that ftretches from
the feet of Black-Crag and Carling-Knot, and
fpreads itfelf into a country watered by the
Cocker. The ride down this vale is pleafant. AH the
fcenes are fmiling, rich, and rural. Every dale-
lander appears to be a man of tafte, and every vil
lage, houfe, and cot, is placed in the choiceft fite,
arid decorated in the neateft manner, and ftile of
natural elegance. Not one formal avenue, or
ftraight
circumference. A corn-mill, dwellingrhoufe, and liable, all
under one roof, lay in the tract of one of thefe currents, and
the mill from the one end, and the liable from the other, were
both fwept away, leaving the little habitation ftanding in the
middle, rent open at both ends, with the miller, who was very
old and infirm, in bed, and who was ignorant of the matter
till he rofe the next morning to behold nothing but ruin and
defolation. His mill was no more ; and inftead of feeing green
ground in the vale bglow, all was covered with large ftones
and rubbifh, four yards deep, and among which one of the
mill-ftones was irrecoverably loft. The old channel of the
ftream too was entirely choaked up, and a new one cut open
on the other fide of the building, through the middle of a
large rock, four yard9 wide, and nine deep.— Something fimi-
Jar to this happened at feveral other places in the neighbour
hood, for the fpace of two miles, along Legberthwaite, and
Fornfide, but happily, through the providence of the Al
mighty, no peifon's life was loft.
[An account of fhis inundation is given in the Philofo
phical Tranfafkions for the year 1 7^0, No. 494.3 • X.

THE LAKES. i4I
ftralght-lined hedge, or fquare fifh-pond, offends
the eye in all this charming vale. The variety of
fifuariori gives diverfity of views, and a fucceflion
©f pleafing objects creates the defire of feeing.
The back view k under a wooded hill, near the
fifth mile-poft, and is fine. Here return up the
g?eat road to Kefwick *.
From Kefwick to, Penrith, feventeea miles of
very good road, through an open wild country.
ANTIQUITIES, Upon Hutton-Moor, md'on
the north fide of the great road, may be traced
the path of the -Roman way, that leads from old
Penrith, or Plumpton-wall, in a line almoft due
weft, to Kefwick. Upon the moor are the traces
of a large encampment that the road traverfes.
And a little beyond the eighth mile*poft, on the
left, at Whitbarrbw, are ftrong veftiges of a
fquare encampment. The Roman road, beyond
that, is met with in the inclofed fields of Whit.
barrow, and is known by the farmers from the
dppofition they meet with -in ploughing acrofs it.
After that, it is found entirely on the common
called Greyftock-Low-Moor ; and lately they have
formed a new road on the agger of it. It pro
ceeds
* While ftaying at Kefwick, it may be worth while to fee
the two mufeums kept there. They contain a great variety
of foffils, and other natural curiofities of the country, fevera'
pieces, of antiquity, and many other articles,.

142 A GUIDE TO
ceed&in a right line to Greyftock town, where it"
makes a flexure to the left, and continues in a
line to Blencow ; it is then found in a plowed
field, about 200 yards to the north of Little-
Blencow, pointing at Coach-Gate; from thence
it paffes on the north fide of Kell-Barrow, and
through Cow-Clofe, and was difcovered in mak
ing the new turnpike road from Penrith to Coc-
kermouth, which it croffed near the toll-gate.
From thence it ftretches over Whitrigg in a right
line, is vifible on the edge of the wood at Fair-
bank, and in the lane called Low-Street. From
thence it points through, inclofed land, to the
fouth end of the ftation called Plumpton-wall,
and old Penrith. — It croffed the brook Petteral,
at Topin-Holme. In the year 1772, near Little-Blencow, in re
moving a heap of flones, two urns were taken up,
about two feet and a half high, made of very
coarfe earth, and crufted on both fides with a
brown clay, the tops remarkably wide, and co
vered with a red flat ftone. Befides afhes and
bones, each urn had a fmall cup within it, of a
fine clay, in the fhape of a tea cup. One was
pierced in the centre of the bottom part. The
place where they were taken up, is called Lod-
don-How, within twenty yards of the road between
Penrith and Skelton, and about 200 yards from
the Roman road, and four miles from the ftation.
Alfo, on the banks of the Petteral, a few roods from

THE LAKES. :43
the fouth corner of the ftation, a curious altar was
lately found. It was three feet four inches in
height, and near fixteen inches fquare. It had
been thrown down from the upper ground, and
the corners broken off in the fall. The front has
been filled with an infcription ; the letters fhort
and fquare, but not one word remains legible.
On the right hand fide is the patera, with a han
dle, and underneath the fecefpita. On the oppo
fite fide is the ampula, and from its lip a ferpent
or viper defcends in waves. The back part is
rude, as if intended to ftand againft a wall. The
emblems are in excellent preferyation *.
The caftrum is 168 paces from fouth to north,
by 1 1 o within the fofs ; which was alfo furround-
ed with a flone-wall. The flones have been re
moved to the fence-wall on the road fide, and
being in Plumpton, is called Plumpton-wall.
The ftation is a vaft heap of ruins, of ftone
building. The walls are of great thicknefs, and
cemented. The town has furrounded the ftation,
except on the fide of the Petteral. But whetfc er the
ftation took its name from the river, as being
upon its banks, and was called the Pettriana, or
whether the ftation gave name to the river (which i.°
* * This curious altar, after being fome time in the poffef
fion of the late Dr. James of Arthuret, was lately removed
into the valuable collection of antiques at Nctherby.

144 ~A GUIDE TO
is perhaps the leaft probable), let him who caft
determine. The ftation is twelve miles and three quarters
from Carlifle ; five and a quarter frorii Penrith ;
about feven from Brougham-Caftle ; and about
eighteen from Kefwick, where an intermediate
ftation muft have been, between Amblefide and
Morefby, and between old Penrith and Mo
refby, having Caer-Mot between it and old
Carlifle, and Papcaftle between it and Mo
refby. The fummer ftation would be on
Caftle-Hill, and the winter ftation on the area of
the prefent town of Kefwick, or on fome conve
nient , place -betwixt the conflux of, the rivers
Greeta and Derwent,, And it is more probable
that the Derventione of the Chorographia was
here, than at Papcaftle, which comes better in for
the Pampocalio of the fame Chorographia. A
ftation here would be an efficacious check on any
body of the enemy that might crofs the asftuaries,
above or below BoUlnefs, and pafs the watch there,
and the garrifons at old Carlifle^ Ellenborough,
Papcaftle, and Morefby; for it was impofiible
for any body of men to proceed to the fouth, but
by Borrowdale or Dunmaile-raife, and a garrifon
at Kefwick commanded both thefe paffes. The
watch at Caer-Mot would give the alarm to that
on Caftle-Crag, in the pafs of Borrowdale, and
the centiriel on Caftle-Head, that overlooks Kef
wick, would communicate the fame to the garri fon

THE LAKES. i4$
ion there ; fo it is apparently impoflible that any
body of men could pafs that way unnoticed or
unmolefted. But if they attempted a route on
the northern fide of Skiddaw, and over Hutton-
moor, to Patterdale, the watch at Caer-Mot was
in fight, both of old Carlifle and Kefwick, and
the garrifon of the latter might either purfue, or
give notice to Whitbarrow and AmblefidCj to
meet them in the pafs at the head of Patterdale,
called Kirkfton, which is fo fteep, narrow, and
crowded with rocks, that a few veteran troops
would eafily ftop the career of a tumultuous croud.-
If they made good the pafs, and turned to the eaft
before the Romans arrived, they would, in that
cafe, be haraffed in the rear, till they arrived at
Kendal, where the watchmen from Watercrook
would be ready to receive them, and then they
would be attacked in front and rear. That the
Romans have had engagements at Kirkfton pafs
is evident, from the Roman arms that were lately
found in the adjoining riiofs, and the many heaps
of flones collected thereabouts, which have the
appearance of barrows.
Thefe are the only paffes amongft the moun
tains, that a body of Caledonians could attempt
in their way to the fouth, and thefe could not be
fecured without a ftation at Kefwick ; and that
could not be more advantageoufly placed, than
where the town now ftands, on the meeting of
the roads from the furrounding ftations ; all being
l about

*4<> A GUIDE TO
about an equal diftance from it, and at fuch a
diftance as rendered a ftation there neceffary, and
the feveral caftellums on Caftle-Crag, and Caftle-
Hill, and Caftlet, ufeful in giving notice, in order
lo guard thefe important pofts. That no veftige
is now vifible cf a ftation ever being there, nor
any notice taken; of it by Camden, Horfley, and
others, nor even a traditional record of its exift
ence, are feeming difficulties, which put the ne
gative on what has been advanced. But this may
only prove, that no care was taken to preferve the
memory of fuch remains,, and that the town oc
cupies the whole area of the ftation, and that the
ftation bad been placed within . the fite of the
town, probably in the lower part, facing the pafs
of the Greeta. In the wheel of the Greeta, in a
meadow peninfulated by the river, juft below the
town, and called Goats-field, there are veftiges of
a fofs, but too imperfect to draw a conclufion
from in favour of the ftation. The ground round
the town is very fertile, and has been long enough
cultivated to deftroy any remains of it, and what
have been accidentally difcovered, may be gone
into oblivion ; and no change happening in the
town itfelf to occafion new difcoyeries, farther
proofs may ftill be wanting. If Camden vifited
Kefwick, he was fatisfied with the then prefent
ftate of the " little town which king Edward I
made a market." The face of the country only
drew his attention. That Horfley never vifited thefe
parts is evident, from his miflaken account of the
road

THE LAKES. 147
road from Plumpton-wall to Kefwick, which he
fays paffed through Greyftock-Park. This, had
he but feen the face of the country, he could
never have imagined. His miftake, and Camden's
filence, gave occafion to a regular furvey of the
faid road, and finding the military roads from
Papcaftle, Ellenborough, Morefby, Amblefide,
and Plump ton, all to coincide at Kefwick; for
this and the other reafons already affigned, it ap
peared evident, that a ftation muft be fomewhere
near. The Caftle-Hill, above Kefwick, is a faith
ful record of the exiftence of a ftation in this
country. Here was the feat of the ancient lords
of the manor of Derwent-water, probably raifed
on the ruins of the Roman fortrefs : but after the
heirefs of that family was married to Ratcliff's,
the family feat was removed into Northumberland,
and the caftle went to ruins ; and with the ftones
thereof the Ratcliffs built a houfe of pleafure in
one of the iflands in Derwent-water *t The name
Caftle-Hill being more ancient thari the laft erec
tion, is ftill retained. At Amblefide, when I en
quired for the Roman flatidri, a few years ago,
rio perfon could inform me of it, till one confi-
deiing my defcription, anfwered, it is the caftle.
The ftation at Plumpton is called by the fame
name; and at Kendal, the caftellum that over
looks the ftation, is alfo called the Caflle-Steads.
So here the Caftle-Hill was probably the place of
l 2 - the
* Nicolfon's hiftory of Cumberland, page &6.

148 A GUIDE TO
the fummer ftation, but being a fruitful tradtj and
much plowed, I have not been able to trace any
' appearance of a fofs, or vallum, and therefore the
whole muft reft upon the neceffity, or at leaft on
the expediency, of a ftation here.  Since the
above was written, an urn, with other remains,
were turned up by the plow, in a field below the
town, and faid to be Roman *.

ULLS -WATER.
Thofe who do not chufe to go as far as Pen
rith, may, near the eighth mile-poft, turn off to
the right (leaving Mell-Fell, a round green hill,
on the left) to Matterdale, and proceed into
Gowbarrow-Park, which will bring them upon
Ulls-water, about the middle part of it, where it
is feen to great advantage. . But here it muft be
obferved, that fome of the principal beauties of
the lake, and the fweeteft paftoral fcenes, are en
tirely loft by this route. Dunmallet, the greateft
ornament of the lake, with the whole of the firft
great
* Our author's predilection for antiquities will perhaps by
fome be thought no recommendation to his book. Others,
however, will no doubt confider the accounts he has given us
of that kind very well worth the room they occupy. And
fhould the proofs here offered of a Roman ftation at Kefwick
(and which the author always confidered as one of the beft
parts of his performance) not appear fully fatisfactory, they
muft at leaft be owned to be very ingenious. X.

THE LAKES. 149
great bend, cannot here be feen, and much bf
the dignity of the lake is thereby loft. It is
therefore better to ride on to the gate on the
right, that leads to Dacre, and over Dacre com
mon , to the foot of Dunmallet. By this courfe,
every part of the lake will be viewed to the
greateft advantage,
Mr. Gray?s choice of vifiting this lake, was
from Penrith, up the vale of Emont. " A grey
autumnal day," he writes, " went to fee Ulls-
water, five miles diftant ; foon left Kefwick road,
and turned to the left, through fhady lanes, along
the vale of Emont, which runs rapidly on near
the way, rippling- over the ftones ; to the right,
Dalemain, a large fabrick of pale red ftone, with
nine windows in front, and feven on the fide.
Further on, Hutton St. John, a caftle-like old
manfion of Mr. Huddlefton's. Approach Dun
mallet, a fine pointed hill, covered with wood.
Began to mount the hill, and with fome toil gained
the fummit. From hence, faw the lake opening
directly at my feet, majeftic in its calmnefs, clear
and fmooth as a blue mirror, with winding fhores,
and low points of land, covered with green inclo
fures, white farm houfes looking out among the
trees, and cattle feeding. The water is almoft
every where bordered with cultivated lands, gently
Hoping upwards, from a mile to a quarter of a
mile in breadth, till they reach the feet of the
mountains, which rife very rude and awful, with
their

*5» A GUIDE TO
their broken tops, on either hand. Directly In
front, at better than three miles diftance, Place-
Fell, one of the braveft amongft them, pufhes its
bold breafjt into the midft of the lake, and forces
it to alter its courfe, forming firft a large bay to
the left, and then bending to the right. Defeended
Dunmallet by a fide avenue, only not perpendicu
lar, and came to Barton-bridge, over the Emont.
Then walked through a path in the wood, round
the bottom of the hill, came forth where the
Emont iffues out of the lake, and continued my
way along the weftern fhore, clofe to the water,
and generally on a level with it ; it is nine miles
long7 and at wideft under a mile in breadth.
After extending itfelf three miles and a half in a
line to the fouth-weft, it turns at the foot of Place-
Fell, almoft due weft, and is. here not twice the
breadth of the Thames at London. It is foon
again interrupted by the root of Helvellyn, a lofty
and very rugged mountain, and fpreading again,
turns off to the fouth-eaft and is loft among the -
deep receffes of hills. To this fecond turning I
pufued my way, about four miles along its bor
ders, beyond a village fcattered among trees, and
called Watermillock."' Here Mr. Gray leaves
us, and the greateft part of the lake unfeen, and
its moft pidturefque parts undefcribed. For the
laft bend of the lake is fpotted with rocky ifles,
deeply indented with wooded promontories on
one fide, and rocks on the other, from which
refuff many a truly pleafing pidture,
ANTI-

THE LAKES. 15*
ANTIQUITIES. Before you quit the top of
Dunmallet, obferve the veftiges of its former
importance, in the remains of a Roman fort-
An area of no paces by 37, furreunded with a
fofs, is yet vifible, and flones of the rampart ftill
peep through the grafs. The well that fupplied
the guard kept here, was but lately filled with
ftones. This fort muft have been of much cor-
fequence in guarding the lake, and commanding
the pafs, and in maintaining a connection between
the garrifons of Amblefide and Brougham, it being
five or fix miles diftant from the latter, and nine
teen from the former. There are alfo ftrong vefti
ges of a fquare fort on Soulby-Fell, which' com
municates with this, and the camp at Whitbarrow,
Oppofite to Watermillock, a cataract defcend*
down the front of Swarth-FslI, in Martindale foreft.
At Skelling-Nab, a bold promontory, the lake is
contracted to a fpan, but it foon fpreads itfelf again
both ways, forming a variety of fweet bays and
promontories. After a reach of three miles, it winds
with a grand fweep, round the fmooth breaft of
Place-Fell, and, making a turn diredtly fouth,
advances with equal breadth towards Patterdale.
The weftern fttore is -various. Drawing near the
fecond bend, the mountains ftrangeiy interfecl
each other. Behind many wooded hills rifes
Stone-crof-spike, and [over all, fteep Helvellyn fhews
his fovereign head. On the weftern fide, Yew-
Crag, a noble pile of rock, fronts Place-Fell, where

152 A GUIDE TO
its ftreams tumble in a cataradt to the lake. Gow-
barrow-Park opens with a grand amphitheatre of
fhining rock, the floor of which is fpread with
foft green pafture, once fhaded with ancient oaks,
to which many decayed roots bear witnefs.
Scattered thorns, trees, and bufhes vary the
ground, which is paftured with flocks, herds of
cattle, and fallow deer. The road winds along
the margin of the lake, and at every turn prefents
the fineft fcenes that can be imagined. At the
upper end of Gowbarrow-Park, the laft bend of
the lake which is by much the fineft, opens,
fcattered with fmall rocky iflands. The fhores
are bold, rocky, wooded, and much embayed,
Pafs New-Bridge, and the road winds up a fteep
rock, having the lake underneath you on the left.
From the top, you have a view under the trees,
both up and down the lake. Martindale-Fell,
a naked grey rock, on the oppofite fhore, rifes
abruptly from the water, to an Alpine height, and
with an aftonifhing effect. The rock you ftand
upon hangs over the lake, which feems blue and
unfathomable to the eye. An ifland in the mid
dle fpace has a beautiful appearance. This is the
moft romantic, ftriking, and terrible fituation upon
the lake, efpecially if the wind blow the furges of
the water againft the rock below you. The fhores
on both fides upwards are very pleafing, and the
little decorating ifles are fcattered in the moft ex-
qufite tafte, and delightful order. The ride along
the banks, fince the repair of tbe road, is charming.
The

THE LAKES. 153
The upper end terminates in fweet meadows,
furrounded on the right by towering rocky hills*,
broken and wooded. Martindale-Fell, is the op
pofite boundary, fkirted here with hanging in
clofures, cots, and farms.
The principle feeders of this lake are Gryfdafe.
beck, on the weflern corner, and Goldrill-beck,
which defcends from Kirkfton-Fell. They enter
it in a freer manner than the feeder of Derwent
does, and make a much finer appearance at their
junction. From the bridge in Patterdale *, Goldrill-beck
ferpentizes fweetly through the meadows, and
falls eafily into the lake about the middle of the
vale. Glencairn-beck, defcending from Helvel
lyn, joins the lake at the bridge which Unites the
counties of Weftmorkuid and Cumberland.
There is from the top of the rock, above the
inn, a very charming view of the laft bend of the
lake which conftitutes one of the fineft landfcapes
on it, and takes in juft enough for a delightful
pidture. The . neareft fore-ground is a fall of
inclofures. A rocky wooded mountain that hangs over
•* -After -eroding the bridge in Patterdale, and afcending
the fide of Martindale-Fell, to a certain height, in the view
acrofs the head of the lake, the mountains affume more point
ed and Alpine forms than any we have feen in this country.
No. 12. of Mr. Farington's views reprefents this fubject.

154 A GUIDE TO
over Patterdale-Houfe (called Martindale-Fell) is
in a proper point of diftance on the right. Steep
rocks, and fhaggy woods hanging from their fides,
are on the left. Gowbarrow-Park rifes in a fine
ftyle from the water edge for the back-ground,
and a noble reach of water, beautifully fpotted
with rocky ifles; charmingly difpofed, with perpe
tual change of rocky fhore, fill the middle fpace
of this beautiful picture.
This lake is of a depth fufficent for breeding-
char, and abounds with a variety of other fifh,
Trout of thirty pounds weight and upwards, are
faid to be taken in it.
The water of the lake is very clear, but has
nothing of the tranfparency of Derwent, and is
inferior to Buttermere and Cromack-water alfo
in this refpedt. The flones in the bottom, and
along the fhores, are coated with mud.
Mr. Gray viewed this lake in the fame manner
as that at Kefwick, proceeding along its banks,
and facing the mountains, judging that the idea of
* magnitude and magnificence were thereby increaf-
ed, and the whole fet off with every advantage of
fore-ground. But this lake viewed from any
height, except Dunmallet, alfo lofes much of its
dignity, as a lake, from the number of "its
flexures, and juttings out of promontories ; it
neverthelefs

THE LAKES, 155
neverthelefs retains the appearance of a magnifi
cent river ingulphed in rocks,
The bold winding hills, the interfecting moun*
tains, the pyramidal cliffs, the bulging broken,
rugged rocks, the hanging woods, and the turn,.
bling, roaring cataracts, are parts of the fublimer
fcenes prefented in this furprifing yale. The
cultivated fpots wave upward from the water in
beautiful flopes, interfected by hedges, decorated
with trees, in the moft pleafing rqanner ; manfions,
cottages, and. farrns, placed in the fweeteft fitua.-
tions, are the rural parts, and altogether form
the moft delightful and , charming fcenes. _ The
accompaniments of this lake are difpofed in the
moft pidturefque order, bending round its margin,
and fpreading up'wards in craggy rocks' and moun-
tairiSj-irregular in outline ; yet they are certainly
much inferior infubiimity and horrible grandeur,
to the environs of Kefwick, and the dreadful rocks
jn Borrowdale. But in this opinion we have Mr.
Cumberland againft us, who, having vifited the
other lakes in dark unfavourable weather, when
nothing could be feen befides weeping rocks, flood
ed roads, and watery plains, darkened by fable
clouds that hqyered over them, and concealed their
variegated fhores, — rentertained an unfavourable
idea of them ; and being more fortunate in a fine
day, in that part of the tour, where he vifited
Ullf-watef, he attuned his lyre in honour of this
enchanting lake, and Tung its charms in preference

156 A GUIDE TO
to Windermere, Grafmere, and the vale of Kefwick,
but he alfo raifes it above the pride of Lomond,
and the marvellous Killarney.
Our bard, in the fweet ode alluded to, repre-
fents himfelf upon the banks of the lake of Ulls-
water, bemoaning the hardnefs of his fate, in
being deprived of a fine day for this view, when
the fun beaming forth, bleffed him with a full.
difplay of all the beauties of this enchanting lake.
In gratitude for fo fpecial a favour, in a true poetic
rapture, he dedicates this ode to the God of Day,
and commemorates his partiality to the lake of
Patterdale, in the following harmonious numbers.
Me turbid flcies and threat'ning clouds await,
Emblems, alas ! of my ignoble fate.
But fee the embattled vapours break,
Difperfe and fly,
Polling like couriers down the fky ;
The grey rock glitters in the glaffy lake ;
And now the mountain tops are feen
Frowning amidft the blue ferene ;
The variegated groves appear,
JDeckt in theeolours of the waning year ;
And, as new beauties they unfold,
Dip their fkirts'in beaming gold,
Theefavage Wyburn, now I hail,
Delicious Grafmere's calm retreat,
And ftately Windermere I greet,
And Kefwick's fweet fantaftic vale :
But let her naiads yield to thee, And

THE LAKES. 157
And lowly bend the fubject knee,
Imperial lake of Patrick's dale :
For neither Scottifh Lomond's pride
Nor fmooth Killarney's filver tide,
Nor ought that learned PoufEn drew,
Or dalhing Rofa flung upon my view,
Shall fhake thy fovereign undifturbed right,
Great fcene of wonder and fublime delight 1
Hail to thy beams, O fun ! for this difplay,
What, glorious orb, can I repay ?
— The thanks of an unproftituted mufe *.
The navigators of this lake find much amufe-
ment by difchargmg guns, or fmall cannon, at
certain ftations. The effect is indeed truly curious.
For the report is reverberated from rock to rock,
promontory, cavern, and hill, with every variety
of found ; now dying away upon the ear, and
again returning like peals of thunder, and thus
re-echoed feven times diftindtlyf. — Oppofite to
Watermillock is one of thofe ftations.
The
* Ode to the fun, page 1 8. The whole of this ode is in
ferted in the Addenda. Article IV.
f This effect is thus defcribed by Mr. Hutchinfon.
" Whilft we fat to regale, the barge put off from more to
a ftation where the fineft echoes were to be obtained from
the furrounding mountains. The veffel was provided with
fix brafs cannon mounted on fwivels ;— on difcharging one
of thefe pieces, the report was echoed from the oppofite rocks, where

158 A GUIDE TO
The higher end of the lake is fourteen mile^
from Penrith, and ten from Amblefide, of good
turnpike road, fave only at Styboar-Crag, where it
is cut into the rock that awfully overhangs it, and
is too narrow.
Above Goldrill-bridge the vale becomes nar
row and poor, the- mountains fteep, naked, and
rocky.-** Much blue flate, of an excellent kind, is
excavated out of their bowels. The afcent from
the lake to the top of Kirkfton is eafy, and there
are many waterfalls from the mountains on both
fides. From the top of Kirkfton to Amblefide the
where by reverberation it feemed to roll from cliff to cliff,
and return through every cave and valley, till the decreafing
tumult gradually died away upon the ear.
— The inftant it had ceafed, the found of every diftant wa.
terfall was heard but for an inftant only, for the momentary
ftillnefs was interrupted by the returning echo on the hills be
hind ; where the report was repeated like a peal of thunder
burfting over our heads, continuing for feveral feconds, flying
from haunt to haunt, till once more the found gradually
declined ;— again the voice of waterfalls poffeffed the inter.
val — till, to the right, the more diftant thunder arofe upon
fome other mountain, and feemed to take its way up every
winding dell and creek, fometimes behind, on this fide, or on
that, in wondrous fpeed running its dreadful courfe ; when
the echo reached the mountains within the line and channel
of the breeze, it washeardat once on the right and left, at the
extremities of the lake. — In this manner was the report of
every difeharge re-echoed feven times diftindtly."
Excurfion to the lakes, page 60

THE LAKES. 159
the defcent is quick. Some remarkable flones
near the gorge of the pafs are called High-Crofs.
After what we have feen, the only lake that
remains to be vifited in this tour is
H AWES-WATER.
This is a pleafant morning ride from Penrith ;
or it may be taken in the way to Shap, or from
Shap, and return to Kendal. There is alfo a road
from Pooly-Bridge, over the mountain, to Bamp-
ton vale, a beautiful fecreted valley.
Afcending the road from Pooly-Bridge to the
fouth, from the brow of the common, you have a
grand general view of Ulls-water, with all its
windirig fhore, and accompaniments of woods,
rocks, mountains, bays, and promontories, to the
entrance of Patterdale. To the north-eaft, you
look down on Pooly-bridge, and the winding of
the river guides the eye to a beautiful valley,
much ornamented with plantations, in the midft
of which Dalemain is feated, queen of the vale of
Emont. Turning fouth, proceed by White- Raife,
a large karn of flones, and near it are the remains
of a fmall circus, ten flones of which are ftill erect.
A little further on, are the veftiges of a larger
one of 22 paces by 25. All the flones, except
the pillar, are removed. It ftands on the fouth
fide of the circus, and the place is called Moor-
Dovack.

160 A GUIDE TO
Dovack. Here the vale of Bampton opens fweetly
to the view, afcending to the fouth, and fpreading
upwards in variety of daleland beauty. At the
bridge the road turns to the right,, and foon brings
you upon Hawes-water.
Mr. Young is the firft that fays any thing in
favour of this fweet but unfrequented lake.
« The approach to the lake is very pidturefque :
you pafs between two high ridges of mountains,
the banks finely fpread with inclofures ; upon the
right, two fmall beautiful hills, one of them co
vered with wood ; they are moft pleafmgly elegant.
The lake is a fmall one, above three miles long,
half a mile over in fome places, and a quarter in
others ; almoft divided in the middle by a promon
tory of inclofures, joined only by a ftrait, fo that
it confifts of two fheets of water. The upper end
of it is fine, quite inclofed, with bold, fteep, craggy
rocks and mountains ; and in the centre of the
end, a few little inclofures at their feet, waving
upward in a very beautiful manner. The fouth
fide of the lake is a noble ridge of mountains, very
bold, and prominent down to the water's' edge.
They bulge out in the centre in a fine, bold, pen
dant, broad head, that is venerably magnificent :
and the view of the firft fheet of the lake, lofing
itfelf in the fecond, among hills, rocks, woods, &c.
is pidturefque. The oppofite fhore confifts of in
clofures,.

THE LAKES. i6t
clofuresj rifing one above another, and crowned
with craggy rocks *."
The narroweft part by report, is 50 fathoms
deep, and a man may throw a ftone acrofs it.
Thwaite-Force, or fall, is a fine cataradl on the
right, and oppofite to it, the firft fheet of
water is loft among the rocks ahd wood, in a
beautiful manner. Bleak-How-Crag, a ruinous
rock, and over it, Caftle-Crag; a flaring fhattered
rock, have a formidable appearance ; and above
all is feen Kidftow-Pike, on whofe fummit the
clouds weep into a crater of rock that is never
empty. On the eaftern fide, a front of prominent
rock bulges out in a folemn naked mafs, and a
waving cataradl defcends the furrowed fide of a
foft green hill. The contrail is fine.— At Bleak-
How-Crag there is a pleafing back view.
Above the chapel, all is hopelefs wafte and de-
folation. The little vale contracts into a glen,
ftrewed with the precipitated ruins of mouldering
mountains, and the deftrudtion of perpetual wa
terfalls. Kendal is fourteen miles from the chapel, and
whoever chufes an Alpine ride, may proceed to it
Up this vale. From the chapel to the top of the
mountain is three miles, and the defcent into
m Long
* Six months Tour, vol. 3d. page 1 6Z,

i6a A GUIDE TO
Long-Sledale is as much more. In approaching
the mountain, Harter-Fell fcowls forward in all
the terrific grandeur of hanging rock. As you
advance, a yawning chafm appears to divide it
upwards from the bafe, and within it is heard the
hoarfe noife of ingulphed waters. The tumult of
cataradts and waterfalls on all fides, adds much
to the folemnity of thefe tremendous fcenes. The
pa,th foon becomes winding, fteep, and narrow,
and is the only poffible one acrofs the mountain.
The noife of a cataract on the left accompanies
you during the afcent. On the fummit of the
mountain you foon come in fight of Long-Sledale,
Lancafter-Sands, &c. and in the courfe of your
defcent you will prefently be accompanied with a
cataradl oh the right. The road traverfes the
mountain as on the other fide, but is much better
made, and wider, on account of the flate taken
from the fides of thefe mountains, and carried to
Kendal, &c. The waterfalls on the right are ex
tremely curious, You enter Long-Sledale between
two fhattered rocky mountains. That on the left,
Crowbarrow, is not lefs terrible to look up at,
when under it, than any rock in Barrowfide or
Borrowdale, and it has covered a mucb larger
fpace with ruins. Here is every poffible variety
of waterfalls and cataracts ; the moft remarkable
of which is on the left. Over a moft tremendous
wall of rock, a mountain torrent, in one unbroken
fheet, leaps headlong one hundred yards and more.
The whole vale is narrow ; the hills rife fwift on
each

THE LAKES- 163
each hand ; their brows are wooded ; their feet
covered with grafs, or cultivated, and their fum
mits broken. The road along the vale is tolera
ble, and joins the great road at Watch-Gate, 'about
four miles from Kendal.
Hawes-water may be taken the firft in the
morning, and then crofs the mountains by the
road to Pooly-Bridge for Ulls-water, and return
rn the evening to
PENRITH*.
So much is already faid of this town, that little
remains new to be added here. The fituation is
pleafant and open to the fouth. It is tolerably
well built, and rather a genteel than a trading
town. The town's people are polite and civil,
and the inns commodious and well ferved.
Saving the few refident families, the life of this
town is its being a thorough-fare. For, although
feated in the midft of a rich arid fruitful country, few
manufadturers have beeri induced to fix here.
Before the intereft of the fifter kingdoms became
one, Penrith was a place of uncertain tranquillity,
and too precarious for the repofe of trade and ma
nual induftry; being better circumftanced for a
place of arms and military exercife. Yet fince
M 2 this
* {Bereda, Rav. Chor. Vereda, Anton. Inter.)

1 64 A GUIDE TO
this happy change of circumftaftces, no more than
one branch of tanning,- and a fmall manufadture
of checks have taken place. This 'muft be owing
either to want of attention in people of property,
or of induftry in the inhabitants. The latter is
not to be fuppofed; for the fpirit of agriculture, ¦
introduced by the gentlemen of the environs, is in
as flourifhing a way amongft the farmers of this
neighbourhood, as in other parts of the kingdom.
The fuperfluities of the market are bought up for
Kendal, where mueh of that produce is wanting
which fuperabounds here.
The moft remarkable objedts at Penrith are the
beacon, on the fummit of the hill above the town,
and the awful remains of a royal fortrefs, on the
creft of the rifing ground that commands the town-
It is fuppofed to be an erection of Henry VI, out
of the ruins of a more ancient ftrudture called
Mayburgh ; but this is not very probable, fince
flones are eafier quarried here than they could be
got there. But as popular records have gene
rally fome fact to reft upon, and fome truth in the
bottom, fo fome facings and other principal flones
taken from Mayburgh, might give rife to> the tra
dition. There might alfo have been a ftrong-hold
here in the time of the Romans. At prefent the
buildings are ruins in the laft flage. One ftone
arched vault only remains, that from its fituation
appears to have been the keep, now no longer ter
rible, fince the border fervice ceafed, and a mu tual

THE LAKES. 165
tual intercourfe of trade and alliance happily took
place of national reprifajs and family feuds.
The antiquity of this town is fuppofed to be
found in its name being of Britifh derivation, from
Pen and Rhudd, lignifying, in that language a
red head or hill ; and fuch is the colour of the
hill above the town, and the ground and flones
round it. But, with refpect to fituation, it may
as well be derived from Pen, the head, and Rhyn,
a promontory, and fo be referred to the beacon
hill. It might however be judged a more honour
able etymon to derive the name from Pen and
Rhydd, of Rhyddaw, to make free, and that, on
account of fpecial fervice or fidelity to the Roman
government, the Britons of this town were eman
cipated from the abjedt flavery which the nation
in general were fubjedted to by their tyrannical
mafters. This, in their own language, might be
Penrhydd, and pronounced by the Britons, as by
the Welch at this day, Penrith. However this
may be, it has been the happinefs of this town to
remain a royal franchife through all the ages of
feudal fervitude ; at leaft ever fince the reign of
Edward I, without the incumbrance of a charter,
and it is now peaceably governed by the fleward
of the honours, and a free jury. The honours of
both town and caftle belong to the Duke of
Portland. In the church-yard are fome fepulchral monu
ments, which have long been the fubject of anti
quarian

166" A GUIDE TO
quarian fpeculation, not yet decided. Thus much
is evident, that the pillars alluded to are of one
ftone, formed like the ancient fpears ; the fhafts
round, for about feven feet high ; above that,
they appear to be fquare, and to have terminated
in a point. They are about ten feet high, ftand
parallel to the .church, diftant from each other
fifteen feet. The fpace between is inclofed with
circular flones, by fome conjectured to reprefent
boars. There remains vifible, on the upper part
of the pillars, fome. ornamental work, but no in
fcription, or figures, appear at prefent, and the
flones are fo much fretted by time, that it refts
upon mere conjecture to affirm there ever were
any. They probably mark the tomb of fome
great man, or family, before the cuftom was in
troduced of interring within churches, and are
moft likely Britifh, or if not, muft be Saxon.
There are many pleafing rides in the environs
of Penrith ; moft of them lead to curious remains
of ancient monuments, or to modern rural im
provements. In Whinfield-Park are the Conntefs-
Pillar, the White-Hart-Tree, and the Three-Bro
thers-Tree : the firft particular is a filial tribute
of Ann, Countefs Dowager of Pembroke, to the
memory of her pious mother, Mary, Countefs
Dowager of Cumberland ; and the trees are the
remains of large aged oaks, that have long out
lived their own ftrength. One of them is upwards
of nine yards in circumference. Brougham-Caftle is

THE LAKES. 167
is an awful ruin, the Brovoniacum of the Romans,
and fince that the bulwark of Weftmorland, on
that fide, and the pride of its earls for many de-
fcents. In the roof of a gallery, is a ftone with a
Roman fepulchral infcription, much defaced. At
Little-Salkeld is the largeft druidical circle in the
northern parts. Near Emont-Bridge is Arthur's-
Round-Table, and at a fmall diftance from it is
Mayburgh, both of remote antiquity, and doubt
ful ufe. The firft may be prefumed to have been
a place of public exhibition for martial exercifes,
and the latter has the circumftances of a Britifh
fort ; but the rude pillar inclines fome to believe
it the remains of a druid temple. It is entirely
formed of loofe ftones and pebbles, colledted from
the adjacent rivers and fields. That the height
has once been great, may be colledted from the
vaft breadth of the bafe, increafed by the fall of
ftones from the top. It inclofes a circular area of
80 yards or more, and near the middle ftands a
red ftone, upwards of three yards high. The en
trance is on the eaftern fide, and opens to a fweet
view of Brougham-Houfe, to which the rude pillar
when whitened (and of this Mr. Brougham is very
careful) is a fine obelifk. If the name of this
very extraordinary monument was Breingwin,
then Mr. Pennant, from Rowland, has pointed
out its ufe, viz. " a fupreme confiftory of druidi
cal adminiftration, as the Britifh name imports."
But if the prefent name be a Saxori corruption of
the ancient name, which probably was Myfirion, by

168 A GUIDE TO
by the Saxons pronounced Maybirion, or Maybir,
and to bring it ftill nearer to their own language,
Mayburgh, then this conjecture being admitted, it
will fignify a place of ftudy and contemplation *.
Such places the druids had, and were the public
fchools deftined for the colloquial inflruction of
pupils in myfteries of religion, and the arcana of
civil government. Druidical remains are frequent
in this neighbourhood, and many of them fimilar ;
but Mayburgh is fuch a huge and fingular con-
ftrudtion, that it muft have been defigned for fome
extraordinary ufe.
From the beacqn the views are many, all exr
tenfive and vaft. The eye is in the centre of a
plain, inclofed with a circle of ftupendous moun
tains of various forms. The plain is adorned with
many ancient towns, and more ancient caftles, fta
tions, and caftellums, where the Roman eagle long
difplayed her wings ; but which are now poffeffed
by a happier people, who enjoy, with freedom, all
the refinements of liberal tafte and flourifhing
induftry. Hawes-water may be conveniently vifited from
Penrith, returning from it by the ruins of Shap
(or Heppe) abbey, to Shap. The remains of this
ancient ftrudture are inconfiderable, yet pictur
refque. A fquare tower, with piked windows, is,
the
t~ Mona antiqua, page 84,

THE LAKES. 169
the chief part of the ruins, and does honour to
the reign of King John, when it was built for ca
nons of the prsemonftratenfian order, that had
been firft placed at Prefton-Patrick, near Kendal,
by Thomas, fon of Gofpatrick.
This abbey was dedicated by the firft founder
to St. Mary Magdalene, and he endowed it with
a large portion of his lands, in Prefton, near
Kendal. His fon tranflated it to Magdalene vale,
near Shap, and further endowed it with the lands
of Karl, or Karlwath. Robert de Viteripont
(Vipont) firft Lord of Weftmorland, confirmed
the precedent grants, and added to that of Matil
da his mother, and Ive his brother, the tithes of all
his mills, and of the game killed in all his lands, in
Weftmorland. This grant is dated on Saturday,
April 24, in the 13th of King John.
From this fequeftered fpot continue the route
to the village of Shap, a proper place for refrefh-
meut, before you face Shap-Fells, a dreary me
lancholy tract of twelve miles *. On the eaft fide
of the road, foon after you leave the village, ob
ferve a double range of huge granites, pitched in
the
* This elevated tract being pretty near the centre of Weft.
morland, and where we may fuppofe its Genius moft likely
to fit enthtoned, it may afford the reader a feafonable amufe-
ment to perufe in this place a little ode addreffed to that ima
ginary being, by a late elegant bard, when on one of his
vifits to his native country. Ode.

170 A GUIDE TO
the ground, and at fome diftance from each other,
leading to circles of fmall ftones, and encreafing
the fpace between the rows as they approach the
circles.
Ode to the Genius of Weftmorland.
Hail hidden Power of thefe wild groves,
Thefe uncouth rocks and mountains grey ;
Where oft, as fades the clofing day,
The family of Fancy roves.
In what lone cave, what facred cell,
Coeval with the birth of time,
Wrapt in high cares, and thought fublime,
In awful filence doft thou dwell ?
Oft in the depth of winter's reign,
As blew the bleak winds o'er the dale,
Moaning along the diftant gale,
Has Fancy heard thy voice complain.
Oft in the dark wood's lonely way,
Swift has fhe feen thee glancing by ;
Or down the fummer evening iky,
Sporting in clouds of gilded day.
I caught from thee the facred fire
That glow'd within my youthful breaft ; —
Thofe thoughts too high to be expreft,
Genius if thou didft once infpire.
O, pleaf'd, accept this votive lay,
That in my native fhade retir'd,
And once, once more by thee infpir'd,
In gratitude I pay.
See Langhorne's Effufions of Friendjhip and Fancy,
Vol. I. Let, 25. X.

THE LAKES. 171
circles, where the avenue is about 27 paces wide.
They are fuppofed1 to have run quite through the
village, and terminated in a point. It has long
embarraffed the antiquaries, what to call this very
uncommon monument of ancient date. Mr. Pen
nant has given a plaufible explanation of it from
Olaus Magnus, and fuppofes the rows of granites
to be the recording ftones of a Danifh victory ob
tained on the fpot, and the flony circles to be
grateful tributes to the memory of confanguineous
heroes flain in the action.
There is at a fmall diftance to the eaft from thefe
ftones a fpring, called Shap-Spaw, in fmell and
tafte like that of Harrowgate, and much frequent
ed by the people of the country for feorbutic com
plaints, and eruptions of the fkin. Leaving this
gloomy region of black moors and fhapelefs
mountains behind you, you approach a charming
vale, which Mr.' Young in his elegant manner
defcribes thus,
£S After qr offing this dreary tract, the firft ap
pearance of a good country is moft exquifitely
fine ; about three miles from Kendal, you at once
look down from off this defolate country upon
one of the fineft landfcapes in the world ; a noble
range of fertile inclofures, richly enamelled with
moft beautiful verdure : and coming to the brow
of the hill, have a moft elegant pidturefque view of
a variegated tract of waving inclofures, fpreading over

172 A GUIDE TO
over hills, and hanging to the eye in the moft pic*
turefque and pleafing manner that fancy can con
ceive : three hills in particular are overlooked, cut
into inclofures in a charming ftile, of themfelves
forming a moft elegant landfcape, and worthy the
imitation of thofe who would give the embellifh-
ments of art to the fimplicity of nature. "
The ftation from whence . this defcription is
taken, is about the midway between the third arid
fourth mile-ftone, on the top of a rock on the eaft
fide of the road, called Stbne-Crag, which cannot
be miftaken. The three hills referred to in the
defcription, are on the near-ground of the land
fcape. There are many beautiful hills and knolls
fcattered about the valley ; fome cultivated, others
covered with wood, or fhining in the fofteft ver
dure. But the moft remarkable one for pidtu
refque form, is an oval green hill crowned with
the ruins of a caftle ; it divides the valley, and
overlooks a town hanging on the fide of a fteep
mountain: this is
KENDAL*.
The approach to it from the north is pleafant.
A noble river, the Kent, is difcovered flowing
brifkly through fertile fields, and vifiting the town
in its whole length. It is croffed by a hand
fome bridge, where three great roads coincide, from
¦* Concangium, Not, Imp.

THE LAKES. 173
from Sedbergh, Kirkby-Stephen, and Penrith.
The main ftreet leading from the bridge flopes up
wards to the centre of the town, and contracts
itfelf into an inconvenient paflage *, Where it joins
another principal ftreet, which falls with a gentle
declivity both waysj and is a mile in lengthy and of
a fpacious breadth. Was an area for a market
place opened at the incidence of thefe two ftreets
it would be a noble improvement. The entrance
from the fouth is by another bridge* which makes
a fhort aukward turn into the fuburbs, but after
that, the ftreet opens well, And the town has a
chearful appearance*
Here is a workhoufe for the poor, which for
neatnefs and ceconomy exceeds moft bf the kirid
in the kingdom. The principal inns are gente^L,
commodious, and plentifully ferved.
The objects moft worthy of notice here are the
manufacturers. The chief of thefe are of Kendal-
cottons (a coarfe woollen cloth), of linfeys, and of
knit worried flockings. Alfo a confiderable tan
nery is carried on in this town. The Ieffer manu-
fadtures are, of fifh hooks, of wafte filk (which
is received from London, arid after fcouring,
combing and fpinning, is returned); and of wool
cards, in which branch confiderable improvements have;
* This paftage is now widened, and * new ftreet has-larely/
been opened from riear the centre of the town, to the river fide^
which has much improved the road through it for cawiage*.

174 A GUIDE TO
have been made by the curious machiries invented
here for that purpofe, There are other articles
of induftry well worth feeing ; as the mills for
fcouring, fulling, and frizing cloth, for cutting
and rafping dying wood, &c. But what is moft
to the credit of this place, is, that notwithftanding
many inconveniencies^ which this town has ever
laboured under, the manufadtures have all along
continued to flourifh, and have of late years been
greatly increafed by the fpirit and induftry of the
inhabitants. Thefe manufadtures are particularly
noticed fo early as the reign of King Richard II,
and Henry IV, when fpecial laws were enadted for
the better regulation of the Kendal cloths, &c *.
When William the conqueror gave the barony
of Kendal to Ivo de Taillebois, the inhabitants of
the town were villain- tenants of the baronial lord ;
but one of his fucceffors emancipated them, and
confirmed their burgages to them, by charter.
Queen Elizabeth, in the -i 8th year of her reign,
erected it into a corporation, by the name of
alderman
* A quarry of marble has lately been difcovered near this
town, which produces quite a new variety. It is of different
colours, beautifully variegated, and takes the higheft polifh.
When inlaid in ftatuary marble it has the beft effect, and is
equal, if not fuperior, to any imported from Greece or Italy.
Chimney-pieces, and other ornamental works, are made of it,
and of the common limeftone of the country, which alfo po«
lifhes very fine, in a good ftile, by Webster and Holme,
rnafons, in Kendal, who have elected a mill for tawing and
polifhing the fame.

THE LAKES. 175
alderman and burgeffes ; and afterwards King
Charles I. incorporated it with a mayor, 12 alder
men, and 20 capital burgeffes.
Mr. Gray's defcription of this town is in
jurious to it ; but his account of the church
and caftle is worth tranfcribing. ".Near the
end of the town ftands a handfome houfe of
Colonel Wilfon's *, and adjoining to it, the
church, a very large Gothic fabrick, with a
fquare tower ; it has no particular ornaments, but
double aifles, and at the eaft end four chapels or
choirs." Mr. Gray's account then proceeds to
the infide of the church f, which he defcribes
with his ufual accuracy and eafe. Speaking of
the four chapels or choirs, he fays, "there is
one
* This is called Abbot- Hall, and is now the property of
Alan Chambre, Efq.
j The following epitaph, compofed for himfelf, by Mr.
Ralph Tirer, vicar of Kendal (who died in 1627) and placed
in the chancel, may be worth the reader's perufaf on account
of its quaintnefs, and yet uncommon hiftorical precifion.
London bredd me, Weftminfter fedd me,
Cambridge fped me, my filler wed me,
Study taught me, Liuing fought roe,
Learning brought me, Kendal caught me,
Labour preffed me, Sicknes diftreffed me,
Death oppreffed me, & Graue poffeffed me,
God firft gaue me, Chrift did faue me,
Earth did craue me, & Heauen would haue me. X.

i?fS A GUIDE TO
one of Parrs, another of the Stricklands, the
third is the proper choir of the church, and the
fourth of tbe BellinghamSj a family now extinct.
The Bellinghams came into Weftmorland before
the reign bf Henry VII, and were feated at
Burnefide*. In the reign of King Henry Will,
Adam Bellingham purchafed of the King the
ioth part of a knight's fee in Helfington, parcel
of the poffeffion of Henry Duke of Richmond,
and of Sir John Lumley (Lord Lumley) which
his father, Thomas Bellingham, had farmed of
the Crown ; die was fucceeded by his fori, James
Bellingham, who eredted the tomb in the Bel-
lingham's chapel. There is an altar tomb of one
©f them (viz. Adam Bellingham) dated 1577,
with a flat brafs arms and quarterings; and in
the window their arms alone, argent, a hunting
horn fable, ftrung gules. In the Strickland's
chapel are feveral modern monuments, and ano
ther old altar tomb, not belonging to the family i
on the fide of it, a fefs daneette between ten bil
lets deincourt. This tomb is probably of Ralph
D'Aittcourt, who, in the reign of King John,
married Helen, daughter of Anfelm de Furnefs,
whofe daughter and fole heirefs, Elizabeth D'Ain-
court, was married to William, fon and heir of
Sir Robert de Strickland, of Great-Strickland, Knt.

* In the reign of King Edward IL Richard Bellingham
married Margaret daughter and heirefs of Gilbert Burnfhead,
«f Burnfhead, Knt. near Kendal.

THE LAKES. i'jj
Knt. 23d of Henry III. The ion aiid heir was.
Walter de Strickland, who lived in the reign of
Edward I, was poffeffed of the fortunes of An-
felm de Furnefs and D'Aincourt in Weftmorland,
and eredted the above tomb, to the memory of
his grandfather, Ralph D'Aincourt, The de
fendants of the faid Walter de Strickland have
lived at Sizergh, in this neighbourhood," ever
fince, and this chapel is the family burial place.
In Parr's chapel is a third altar tomb, in the
corner, no figure or infcription, but on the fide^
cut iri ftone, an efcutcheon of' Rofs of Kendal,
three water-budgets, quartering Parr, two bars
in a bordure engrailed ; 2dly, an efcutcheon,
vaire, a fefs for marmion ; jdly, an efcutcheon,
three chevroriels braced, arid a chief, which I
take for Fitzhugh : at the foot is an efcutcheon,
furrounded with the garter, bearing Rofs and
Parr quarterly, quartering the other two before-
mentioned. I have no books to look in, there
fore cannot fay whether this is Lord Parr," of
Kendal, Queen Catharine's father, or her bro
ther, the Marquis of Northampton. Perhaps it:
is a cenotaph for the latter, who was buried at
Warwick, 1571.'"
The caftle he defcribes thus. " The remains"
of the caftle are feated on a fine hill, on the fide
of the river oppofite tb the town ; almoft the
whole inclofure-wall remains, with four towers,
two fquare and two round, but their upper parts*
.n and

1 78 A GUIDE TO
and embatflements are demolifhed : it is of rough
ftone and cement, without any ornament or arms,
round, inclofing a court of the like form, and fur
rounded by a moat ; nor ever could it have been
larger than it is, for there are no traces of out
works. There is a good view of the town and
river, with a fertile open valley through 'which it
winds." Had Mr. Gray afcended from the end of Stra-
mongate-Bridge to the caftle, which was the only
way to it when in its glory, and is the eafieft at
prefent, he would have obferved a fquare area that
had been fortified with a deep moat, and connedted
to the caftle by a draw bridge, where was proba
bly the bafe-court. The ftones now are entirely
removed, and the ground levelled, " and laughing
Ceres reaffumes the land." The prefent ftrudture
was undoubtedly raifed by the firft barons of Ken
dal, and probably on the ruins of a Roman ftation;
this being the moft eligible fite in the country for
a fummer encampment, and at a fmall diftance
from Watercrbok. There are ftill fome remains
of a dark red freeftone, ufed in facings, and in the
doors and windows, that have been brought from
the environs of Penrith, more probably by the Ro
mans, than by* either the Saxon or Norman lords.
Fame fays this caftle held out againft Oliver Crom*
well, and was battered from the Caftle-Law-Hill,
but this is not fo probable, as that its prefent ru
inous ftate is owing to the jealoufy of that ufurper. There

THE LAKES. 179
There is a moft pleafant morning ride of five
feiles, down the eaft fide of the river. Water
crook is one mile diftant, on the right, clofe by
the fide of the Kent. This is the Concangiwn
of the Romans, where a body of the Vigilatores
(or watchmen) kept guard, and was the inter
mediate ftation betwixt the Didis at Amblefide,
and /he garrifon at Overborough. The line of
the fofs may be ftill traced, though much defaced
by the plow. Altars, coins, and infcribed flones,
have been found here. And in the wall of the
barn, on the very area of the ftation, is ftill le
gible, the infcription preferved by Mr. Horfley *,
to the memory of two freed-men, with an im
precation againft any one who fhould contami
nate their fepulchre, arid a fine to the fifcal.
There is alfo an altar without an infcription, and
a Silenus without a head. At a fmall diftance
is a pyramidal knoll, crowned with a fingle tree,
called Sattury, where probably fomething dedi
cated to the god Saturn has flood, Pafs through
the village of Natiand, and on the creft of a
green hill, on the left, called Helm, are the vef
tiges of a caftellum, called Caftle-Steads, which,
during the refidence of the watchmen at Water
crook, correfponded (by fmbke in the day, and
flame in the night) with the garrifon at Lancaf
ter, by the beacon on Warton-Crag. There is a
houfe at a diftance to the north, called Watch-
Houfe, where Roman coins have been found,
n 2 Proceed
* Brit, page Joo.

*8e A GUIDE TO
Proceed through Sedgwick*, and fall in witfe
the courfe of the river at Force-Bridge, and from
the crown of it have a very fingular romantic
view of the river both ways, working its paflage
iri a narrow deep channel of rocks, hanging over
it in variety of forms, and ftreaming a thoufand
rills into the flood. The rocks in the bottom are
ftrangely excavated into deep holes of various
fhapes, which, when the river is low, remain full
of water, and from their depth are black as ink.
The bridge is one bold arch, fupported by the
oppofite rocks, of unknown antiquity. A mantle
of ivy vails its ancient front, and gives it a moft
- venerable appearance. If you ride down the weft
fide of the river from the bridge, as far as the
forge, to fee the waterfall of the whole river, let
it be remembered, that the ftream is much im
paired in beauty fince the forge Was erected.
And if, from the end of the uppermoft houfe,
you look up between the trees in the midft of
the channel, you will fee the whole body of the
river iffuing from a fable cavern, and tumbling
over a rock, of height juft fuflcient to convert it
into froth as white as fnow, and behind it the
arch of the bridge is partly catched in a difpo
fition that forms a very uncommon affemblage
of pidturefque beauties. This is feen in higheft
perfedlion when the ftream is full. Return to
the bridge, and ride down the eaft fide of the
river
* Near this place are large works for the manufactory of
gunpowder.

THE LAKES. 181
river to Levens-Park.  In order to ride through
the park, you muft be favoured with a key from
Lady Andover's agent.
-Here is one of the fweeteft fpots that fancy
can imagine. The woods, the rocks, the river,
the grounds, are rivals in beauty of ftile, and
variety of contrail. The bends of the river, the
bulging of rocks over it, under which in fome
places it retires in hafle, and again breaks out
in a calm and fpreading ftream, are matchlefs
beauties. The ground in fome places is bold,
and hangs abruptly over the river, or falls into
gentle flopes, and eafy plains. All is variety,
with pleafing tranfition. Thickets cover the
brows ; ancient -thorns, and more ancient oaks,
are fcattered over the plain, and clumps, and fo
litary beach trees of enormous fize, equal, if not
furpafs, any thing the Chiltern-Hilk can boaft.
The park is well flocked with fallow-deer. The
fide of the Kent is famous for petrifying fprings,
that incruft vegetable bodies, as mofs, leaves of
trees, &c. There is one in the park, called the
Dropping- Well.
At a fmall diftance is Hincafter, where the
Romans had a camp. Within the park is Kirkf-
head, mentioned by Camden as a place fre
quented by the Romans, yet nothing of late
belonging to that people has been difcovered
at either place, Levens-Hall was the feat of a
family

ltz A GUIDE TO
family of that name, for many ages ; then of
Redman, for feveral defcents ; afterwards it came
to Bellingham, and Adam, or his. fon James
Bellingham, gave it the prefent form in the reign
of Queen Elizabeth, and in tafte of carvings in
wood attempted to outdo his cotemporary, Wal
ter Strickland, Efq. of Sizergh. After Belling-.
ham it came to Colonel Graham, and from his
daughter, by marriage, to the anceftor of the
late noble poffeflbr *.
Return by Levens-Bridge, to Kendal, five
miles. Have a new view of the valley, and
the eaft fide of Kent. At the park gate have
a charming view of Sizergh, fhewing itfelf to
the morning fun, and appearing to advantage
from an elevated fite under a bold and wooded
back-ground. The tower was built in the reign
of Henry III, or Edward I, by Sir William
Strickland, who had married Elizabeth, the
general heirefs of Ralph D'Aincourt. This is
evident from an efcutchion cut in ftone, on the
weft fide of the tower, and hung cornerwife,
D'Aincourt quartering Strickland; three efcalop
fliells, the creft, on a clofe helmet, a full-topt
holly bufh. The fame are the arms of the fa
mily
* The Earl of Suffolk  The gardens belonging to this
feat are rather curious in the old ftile, and faid to have
been planned by the gardener of James II, who refided here
with Colonel Graham during fome part of the troubles of his.
.royal mafter.

THE LAKES. 183
*iily at this time, and this has been their chief
refidence ever fince *.
Before you leave Kendal vifit the Caftle-Law-
Hill. This is an artificial mount, that overlooks
the town, and faces the caftle, and furpaffes it in
antiquity, being one of thofe hills called Laws,
where in ancient times diftributive juftice was
adminiftered. From its prefent appearance, it
feems to have been converted to different pur-
pofes, but though well fituated as a watch upon
the caftle, it could never be a proper place to
batter it from, as has been reported f.
To
* Sizergh-Hall is a venerable old building, in a pleafant fi-
tuation, formed like the reft in ancient time, for a place of
defence. The tower is a fquare building, defended by two
fquare turrets and battlements. One of them is over the
¦great entrance, and has a guard room capable of containing
ten or a dozen men with embrazures. The windkig flair-cafe
terminates in a turret, which defends the other entrance.
Burn's Weftmorland.
f An obelifk was erected on the. top of this hill, by a
fubfcription of the inhabitants of Kendal, in 1788, which,
feen from almoft every part of the vale, is a handfome object,
and being the centenary of the revolution in 1688, has the
•following infcription. SACRED TO LIBERTY.
THIS OBELISK
WAS ERECTED IN THE YEAR I788,
IN MEMORY OF
THE REVOLUTION IN ll>88.

184 A GUIDE TO
To Lancafter, by Button in Kendal*, is 22
miles. Obferve on the left, before you reach.
Burton, Farlton-Knot t, a beautiful naked lime
ftone mountain, faid to refemble much in form
the rock of Gibralter.

Between Burton and Lancafter, fee Dunald- Mill-
* (Coccium, Rav. Ghor.)— On the edge of a mountain,
about a mile and a half to the north of this town, is a natural
curiofity, called Claythrop-Clints, or Curwenwood-Kins,
which many tourift:6 would probably like to fee. It confifts of
a large plain of naked limeftone rock, a little inclined to the
horizon, which has evidently once been one continued calca-
rious mafs, in a ftate of foftnefs like that of mud at the bot
tom of a pond. It is now deeply rent with a number of
fiffures, of 6, 8, or io inches wide, juft in the form of thofe
which take place in clay or mud that is dried in the fun. It
alfo exhibits fuch channels in its furface, as can only be ac
counted for by fuppofing them formed by the ebbing of copi
ous waters', (probably thofe of the Deluge), before the matter
was become hard. It is five or fix hundred yards in length,
and about two hundred in breadth. There are feveral other*
limeftone plains of the fame kind in the neighbourhood, but
this is the, moft remarkable and extenfive.
In the crevices of the rocks, the botanift may meet with
the Belladonna, or Solanum Lethale (the Deadly Night
shade) and fome other curious plants. X.
f By a trigonometrical procefs, the height of this moun
tain was found, to be 594 feet above the level of the turn
pike.

THE LAKES. 185
Mill-Hole*, a fubterraneous cavern, with a
brook running through it, and many curious
petrifactions, in ftile ,and kind like thofe in
Derbyfhire.
LANCASTER—

Finis chart&que viaque.

* This place is particularly defcribed in Article V. of the
following Addenda.

A V1BW

i86~ A GUIDE TO
A VIEW OF THE
HEIGHT OF THE MOUNTAINS,
SEEN IN THIS TOUR,
And the moft remarkable ones in other parts of the world.
TAKEN FROM THE LATEST SURVEYS.
¦•<-<"<-<<g^>-i>.'>"y-
Heights of mountains above the level of the fea.
By Mr. Waddington, A. D. 1770, FEET
Snowden, in Wales  * 345°"
Whernfide  4050
Pendle-Hill  34"
Pennygant  393°
Ingleborough  39^7
By Mr. Donald.
Helvellyn  3324
Skiddaw  3270
Crofs-Fell  339°
Saddleback .---  3048
In North Britain.
Pennant's Tour in Scotland, 1769.
Ben-Lomond  - - - 3240
Benevifh
* Mr. Pennant makes Snowden 3568 feet high.

THE LAKES. 1B7
FEET
Benevifh  --- 43Sc>
Ben-y-bourd ftill higher *.
Laghin-y-gair.
Benewewifhf. £
>\
Heights above the level of the Mediterranean fea.
By M. T. Bourrit.
Lake of Geneva, at the lower paffage of
the Rhone ..... . . . 1194
Summit of Dole, the higheft mountain
of Jura  - 5400
Valley of Chamouni, in Savoy - - - 3363
Ridge de Brevin, a Glacier in the valley
of Chamouni  8847
Valley of Mountainvert, in Savoy - - 5595
Abbey of Sixt, ibid - -_- - - - - 2391
Summit of Grenier ... 8346
Summit of Grenarion .----- 8874
Summit of Buet  -- 9945
Mount Blanc  I524S
Mount iEtna  1200a
Heights above the level of the ocean.
Higheft part of the Table, at the Cape of
Good Hope  - 3459
Pike Rucio, in the ifland of Madeira - 5067 Pike
* From its fummit to the fea is a quick defcent of feventy
mijes. f The laft three mountains are never without fnow,

i-8fi A GUIDE TO FEET,
Pike Teneriffe  i^W
The fame, according to Dr. Heberden in
Madeira  1530^
Summit of Cotopaxi, in the province of
Quito, according to Don Antonio de
Ulloa --------- 19929
Carambour, under the equator - - 18000
Chimboraco  19326
Petchincha  -14580
•Carafon  -.... 14820
From this furvey of mountains it appears that
Whernfide is the higheft in South Britain, yet
below the point of permanent fnow. It has been
obferved, by the French academicians, that a-
mongft the Cordilleras, in the province of Quito,
Petchincha and Carafon are the higheft acceflible
mountains, and that all of greater heights are
veiled with eternal fnow.
On the Glaciers fnow is permanent at a much
inferior height; and where the fun's rays fall
more obliquely, lefs height is found the boundary
between temporary and eternal fnow. But no
mountain in South Britain touches the zone of
barrennefs, that intervenes between this region
and the limits of vegetation. Sheep pafture the
fummits of Snowden, Helvellyn, and Skiddaw,
and barrennefs only prevails where rock and pre
cipice are the invincible obftacles to vegetation.
ROADS

THE LAKES. 189
ROADS FROM
LANCASTER TO THE LAKES.
Jules.

Or

Or

Lancafter.

3

Heft-Bank.

9

Over Laucafter-Sands to Carter- Houfe.

2

Cartmei or Flookburgh.

2

Holker-Gate.

3

Over Ulverfton- Sands to Carter- Houfe.

1

Ulverfton.

12

Dalton, Furnefs-Abbey, and back to Ulverfton,

4

Penny-Bridge.

2

Lowick- B ridge.

5

from Ulverfton to Lowick-Bridge.

*i

Through Nibthwaite to Conifton Water-Foot.

6

Conifton Water- Head.

3

Hawkfhead.

5

Amblefide.

4

From Hawkfhead to the ferry on Windermere-water.

1

Bownefs acrofs Windermere-water.

6

Amblefide.

2

Rydal.

2

Grafmere.

2^

. Dunmail-Raife-Stones.

3l

': Dale-Head.

4^

: Caftle-Rigg.

1

Kefwiek.

3

Lowdore waterfall.

1

Grange.

1

Bowdar-Stone, Caftle-Hill.

2^

: Rofthwaite.

2i

: Seathwaite*

9

Kefwick.

8 Down

190 A GUIDE TO &c.
8 Down Baffenthwaite-water, by Bownefs, Bradnefs,
Scarenefs, to Armathwaite.
9 Up the other fide of the lake to Kefwick«
5 Kefkadale.
3 Buttermere.
6 Down Cromack-water to Lorton.
7^ Kefwick.
4 Threlkeld.
6 Whitbarrow.
I Penruddock.
6| Penrith.
5 Dunmallet. at the foot of Ulls-Water, and Pooly-
Bridge.
9 Watermillock, Gowbarrow-Park, Airy-Bridge, to
the head of Ulls-water.
9 Amblefide.
Or 14 From the head of Ulls-water to Penrith,
105 By Lowther, Afkham, and Bampton, to Hawes-
water.
15 Through Long-Sledale, to Kendal.
Or 5 From Hawes-water to Shap, by Rofgil and Shap-
Abbey.
7 Hawfe-foot.
8 Kendal.
10 Down the eaft fide of Kent to Levens-Park, and
return to Kendal by Sizergh,
11 Burton in Kendal.
11 Lancafter.

( »95 )
Addenda.

It having been judged, that the principal de
tached pieces which have appeared on the fubjedt
of the lakes, by efteemed writers, if collected to
gether, might accommodate the reader, and corf-
tribute to the chief purport bf this manual, —
they are here fubjoined, in the order they were
firft publifhed, along with fome other connedled
articles, and fimilar deferiptions, which relate to
the fame country. X.
ARTICLE I.
DR, BROWN'S LETTER,
DESCRIBING THE VALE AND LAKE OF KESWICK*
In my way to the north, from Hagley, I pafied through
Dovedale ; and to fay the truth, was difappointed in it.
When I came to Buxton, I vifited another or two of their
romantic fcenes ; but thefe are inferior to Dovedale. They
are but poor miniatures of Kefwick ; which exceeds them
more in grandeur than I can give you to imagine ; and
more, if poffible, in beauty than in grandeur.
Inftead of the narrow flip of valley which is feen at Dove
dale, you have at Kefwick a vaft amphitheatre, in circumfe-
o rence

194 ADDENDA.
rence above twenty miles. Inftead of a meagre rivulet, $
noble living lake, ten miles round, of an oblong form, adorn*
ed with a variety of wooded iflands.- The rocks, indeed, of
Dovedale are finely wild, pointed, and irregular; but the
hills are both little and una-nimated ; and the margin of the
biook is poorly edged with weeds, morafs, and brufhwood. —
But at Kefwick, you will on one fide of the lake, fee a rich
and beautiful' landfcape. of cultivated fields, rifing to the eye
iri fine inequalities, with noble groves of oak, happily dif-
petfed, and climbing the adjacent hills, fhade above fhade, iri
the moft various and' pid-turefque forms. On the oppofite
fhore you will find recks and cliffs of ftupendous height,
hanging broken over the lake in horrible grandeur, fome of
them a -thoufand feet high, fhe woods climbing up their fteep
•and fhaggy fides, where mortal foot never yet approached.
On thefe dreadful heights the eagles build their nefts ; a va
riety of waterfalls are feen pouring from their fummits, and
tumbling in vaft fheets from rock to rock in rude and terri'-
ble magnificence ; while on all fides of this immenfe amphi
theatre the lofty mountains rife round, piercing the clouds
in fhapes as fpiry and fantaftic as the very rocks of Dovedale.
-—To this 1 muft add, the frequent and bold projection of
the cliffs into the lake, forming noble bays and promonto
ries : in other parts they finely retire from it, and often open
in abrupt chafms or cliffs, through which at hand, you fee
rich and cultivated vales, and beyond thefe, at various dif-
•tances, mountain rifing over mountain, among which, new
profpects prefent themfelves in mift, till the eye is loft in an
agreeable perplexity :
Where aftive fancy travels beyond fenfe,
And pictures things unfeen.
Were I to analyfe the two places into their conftituent
principles, I fhould tell you, that the' full' perfection of Kef
wick confifts of three circumftances, beauty, horror, and im-
menfity united ; the fecond of which is alone found in Dovedale.
Of

ADDENDA. 195
Of beauty it hath little : nature having left it almoft a defert :
neither its fmall extent, nor the diminutive and lifelefs forth
of the hills, admit magnificence, — But to give you a com
plete idea of thefe three perfections, as they are joined ih
Kefwick, would require the united powers of Claude, Sal
vator, and Pouffin. The firft fhould throw his delicate fun-
fliine over the cultivated vales, the fcattered cots, thegroves>
the lake, and wooded iflands1. The fecond fhould dafh out
the horror of the rugged cliffs, the fteeps, the hanging woods,
and foaming waterfalls ; while the grand pencil of Pouffih
fhould crown the whole With the majefty of the impending
mountains. Sq much for what I would call the permanent beauties of
this aftonifhing fcene. Were I not afraid of being tirefome,
I eould cow dwell as long on its varying or accidental beau
ties. I would fail round the lake, anchor in every bayj and
land you oh every promontory and ifland. I would point
out the perpetual change of profpeets; the woods, rocks,
cliffs, and mountains, by turns vanifhing or rifing into view :
now gaining on the fight, hanging over pur heads in their
full dimenfions, beautifully dreadful ; and now by a change
of fituation, affuming new romantic fhapes, retiring and leff-
ening on the eye, and infenfibly lofing themfelves in an azure
mift. I would remark the contrail of light, and fhade, pro
duced by the morning and evening fun ; the one gilding the
weftern, and the other the ea'ftern fide of this immenfe am
phitheatre ; while the vaft fhadow projected by the moun
tains buries the oppofite part in a deep and purple gloom,
which the eye can hardly penetrate : the natural variety of
colouring which the feveral objects produce is no lefs won
derful and pleafing ; the ruling tints in the valley being
thofe of azure, green, and gold, yet ever various, arifing from
an intermixture of the lake, the woods, the grafs, and corn
fields : thefe are finely contrafted by the grey rocks and
cliffs ; and the whole heighened by the yellow ftreams of
light, the purple hues, and mifty azute of the mountains.
o 2 Sometimes

196" ADDENDA.
Sometimes a ferene air and clear fky difclofe the tops of. the
higheft hills ; at others you fee the clouds involving their
fummits, refting on their fides, or defcending to their bafe,
and rolling among the vallies, as in a vaft furnace. — When
the winds are high, they roar among the cliffs and caverns,
like a peal of thunder ; then too the clouds are feen in vaft
bodies, fweeping along the hills in gloomy greatnefs, while
the lake joins the tumult and toffes like a fea. But in calm-
weather the whole fcene beeomes new: the lake is a perfect
mirror; and the landfcape in all its beauty, iflands, fields,
woods, rocks, and mountains, are feen inverted and floating
on its furface. — I will now carry you to the top of a cliff,
where if you dare approach the ridge, a new fcene of afton-
ifhment prefents itfelf, where the valley, lake, and iflands,
feem lying at your feet, where this expanfe of water appears
diminifhed to a little pool amidft the vaft immeafureable ob
jects that furround it : for here the fummits of more diftant
hills appear beyond thofe you had already feen ; and rifing
behind each other in fucceffive ranges, and azure groups of
craggy and broken fteeps, form an immenfe ahd awful pic
ture, which can only be expreffed by the image'of a tempeft
uous fea of mountains. — Let me now conduct you down
again, to the valley, and conclude with one circumftance
more, which is, that a walk by ftill moonlight (at which time
the diftant waterfalls are heard in all their variety of found)-
among thefe enchanting dales, opens a fcene of fuch delicate;
beauty , repofe, and foleranity, as exceeds all defcription.

ARTICLE

ABDENDA. i 9y
ARTICLE II.
EXTRACT FROM
Dr. DaLton's Descriptive Poem,
ENUMERATING THE BEAUTIES OF THE VALE OF KESWICK *-

-To Nature's pride,

Sweet Kefwick's vale, the mnfe will guide,
The mufe who trod th' enchanted ground,
Who fail'd the wond'rous lake around,
With you will hafte once more to hail
The beautious brook of Borrowdale,
From favage parent, gentle ftream I
Be thou the Mufe's favourite theme :
O foft infinuating glide
Silent along the meadow's fide,
Smooth o'er the fandy bottom pafs,
Refplendent all through fluid glafs,
Unlefs upon thy yielding breaft
Their painted heads the lilies reft.
To where in deep capacious bed
The widely liquid lake is fpread.
Let other ftreams rejoice to roar
Down the rough rocks of dread Lowdore,
Rufh raving on with boift'rous fweep,
And foaming rend the frighted deep,
Thy gentle genius fhrinks away
From fuch a rude unequal fray ;
Through thine own native dale, where rife
Tremendous rocks amid the flues,
Thy waves with patience flowly wind,
Till they the fmootheft channel find, Soften
* Firft printed in I775.--See PtartVs CilkBhn of Poems, Vol, i.

ADDENDA,
Soften the horrors of the fcene,
And through confufion Bow ferene.
Horrors like thefe at firft alarm,
But foon with favage grandeur charm,
And raife to nobleft thoughts the mind :
Thus by thy fall, Lowdore, reclin'd,
The craggy cliff, impendent wood,
Whofe fhadows mix o'er half the flood,
The gloomy clouds, which folemn fail,
Scarce lifted by the languid gale,
O'er the capp'd hill, and darkened vale ;
The rav'ning kite, and bird of Jove,
Which round the asrial ocean rove,
And, floating on the billowy fky,
With full expanded pinions fly,
Their flutt'ring or their bleating prey
Thence with death-dooming eye furvey ;
Channels by rocky torrents torn,
Rocks to the lake in thunders borne,
Or Tuch as o'er our heads appear
Sufpended in their mid career,
To ftart again at his command
Who rules fire, water, air and land,
I view with wonder and delight,
A pleafing, though an awful fight :
For, feen with them, the verdant ifles
Soften with more delicious fmiles,
More tempting twine their op'ning bow'rs,
More lively glow the purple flow'rs
More fmoothly flopes the border gay,
In fairer circles bend the bay,
And laft, to fix our wand'ring eyes,
Thy roofs, O Kefwick, brighter rife,
The lake, and lofty hills between,
Where giant Skiddaw fhuts the fcene.
ARTICLE.

flUUi^l* XJJ.X. 199
ARTICLE III.
MR. GRAY'S JOURNAL,
¦IN A LETTER TO DR. WHARTON, OCTOBER iSth, I769,
tUBLISHEH IN THE MEMOTRS OF HIS LIFE EY MR.
MASON.

I hope you got fafe and well home after that troublefome
night*. I long to hear you fay fo. For me I have con
tinued well, been fo favoured by the weather, that my walks
have never once been hindered till yefterday (that is a fort
night and three or four days, and a journey of more than
309 miles.) I am now at Afton for two days. To-morrow
I go to Cambridge. Mafon is not here; but Mr. Alderfon
receives me. According to my promife, I fend you the firft
fheet of my journal to be continued without end. Sep. 30.
* Hr. Wharton, who had intended to accompany Mr. Gray to Kefwick,
was feized at Brough with a violent fit of ] is. afthma, which obliged him
to return home. This was the reafon Mr. Gray undertook to write the,
following journal of his tour for his friend's amufement He fent it under •
different covers ; I give it here in continuation. It may not be amifs
however,, to hint to the reader, that il he expefls to find, elaborate
and nicely turned periods in this narration, he will be greatly difappointed.
When Mr. Gray defcribed places, he aimed only to he exaft, clear, and
intelligible ; to convey peculiar, not general ideas, and to paint- by the
eye not the fancy. There have been many accounts cf the Weftmorland
and Cumberland lakes, both before and fince this was written, and
all of them better calculated to pleafe readers who are fond of what
they call fine writing : yet thofe" who can content themfeivts with
an elegant fimplicity of narrative, will, I flatter myfelf, find this to
their tafte ; they will perceive it written with a view, rather to in
form than furprife; and, if they make it their compaiion when
they take the fame tour, it will enhance their opinion > f its intrinfic
excellence; in this way I tried it myfelf beiorei refolded to print it.

$oo ADDENDA,
Sep, 3d).. A mile and a half from Brough, where we
Iparted, on a hill lay a gteat army * encamped : to the left
opened a fitievailey with green meadows and hedge-rows, a
gentleman's houfe peeping forth from a grove of old trees.
On a nearer approach appeared myriads of cattle and horfe?
in the road itfelf, and in all the fields round me, a brifk ftream
hurrying crofs the way, thoufands of clean healthy people in
their beft party -coloured apparel : farmers and their families,
efquifes and their daughters haftening up, from the dales and
down the fells from every quarter, glittering in the fun, and
prefiing forward to join the throng. While the dark hills,
on whofe tops the mills were yet hanging, ferved as a contrail
to this gay and moving fcene, which continued for near two
miles more along the road, and the crowd (coming towards
it) reached on as far as Appleby. On the afcent of the hill
above Appleby the thipk hanging woqd> and the long reaches
of the Eden, clear, rapid, and full as ever, -winding below,
with views of the caftle and town, gave much employment
to the mirror f ; but now the fan was wanting, and the fky
overcaft. Oats and barley cut every where, but not carried
in. Paired Kirkbythore, Sir William Dalflon's houfe' at
Acron-Bank, Winfield-Park, Harthorn-Oaks, Countefs-
Pillar, Brougham-Caftle, Mr. Brougham's large new houfe ;
croffed the Eden and the Emont with its green vale, and
dined at three o'clock with Mrs. Buchanan, at Penrith, on
trout and partridge. In the afternoon walked up beacon-hill,
a mile to the top, and could fee Ulls-water through an open
ing in the bofom of that duller of broken mountains, which
the Dr. well remembers, Winfield and Lowther Parks, &c»
and
* There is a great fair for cattle kept on the hill near Brough on this
and the preceding day.
f Mr. Gray carried ufually with him on thefe tours a plano-convex
mirror of about four inches diameter on a black foil, and bound up like
a pocktt-book. A glafs of this fort is perhaps the beft and moft con
venient fubftitute for a camera oSfcura of any thing that has, hitherto
been invented, and may be had of any optician.

ADDENDA. 201 e
and the craggy tops of an hundred namelefs hills : thefe li
to the weft and fouth.- To the north, a great extent of black
and dreary plains. To the eaft, Crofs-Fell, juft vifible
through mills and vapours hovering round it.
Oct. 1. A grey autumnal day, the air perfectly calrt, and
mild, went to fee Ulls-water, five miles diftant , foon left
the Kefwick road, and turned to the left through fhady lanes
along the vale of Emont, which runs rapidly on near the way,
rippling over the ftones : to the right is Dalemain, a large fa
brick of pale red ftone, with nine windows in front and feven
on the fide, built by Mr. Haffel ; behind it a fine lawn fur
rounded by woods, and a long rocky eminence rifing over
them ; a clear and briflc rivulet runs by the houfe to join the
Emont, whofe courfe is in fight and at a fmall diftance, Fur
ther on appears Hutton St. John, a caftle-like old manfion
of Mr. Huddlefton. Approached Dunmallet, a fine pointed
hill, covered with wood, planted by old Mr. Haffel before
mentioned, who lives always at home, and delights in plant*
ing. Walked over a fpongy meadow or two, and began
to mount the hill through a broad ftraight green alley
among the trees, and with fome toil gained £he fummit.
From hence faw the lake Opening directly at my feet, majeftic
in its calmnefs, clear and fmooth as a blue mirror, with wind
ing fhores and low points of land covered with green inclo
fures, white farm houfes looking out among the trees, and
cattle feeding. The water is almoft every where bordered
with cultivated lands, gently Hoping upwards from a mile tb
a quarter of a mile in breadth, till they reach the feet of the
mountains which rife very rude and awful with their broken
tops on either hand. Directly in front, at better than three
miles diftance, Place-Fell, one of the braveft among them,
pufhes its bold broad breaft into the midft of the lake, and
forces it to alter its courfe, forming firft a large bay to the
left, and then bending to the right. I defcended Dunmallet
again by a fide avenue, that was only not perpendicular, and
came to Barton -Bridge over the E,mont ; then walking
through

aoa ADDENDA,
through a path' in the wood round the bottom of the hill,
came forth where the Emont iffues out pf the lake, and con
tinued my way along its weftern fhore, clofe to the water,
and generally on a level with it. ' Saw a cormorant flying
over it and fifhing. The figure of the lake nothing tefem-
bles that laid down in our maps : It is nine miles long ; and
at wideft under a mile in breadth. After extending itfelf
three miles and a half in a line to fouth weft, it turns at the
foot of Place-Fell almoftdue weft, and is here not twice the
breadth of the Thames at London. It is foon again inter
rupted by the root-of Helvellyn, a lofty and very rugged
mountain, and fpreading again turns off to the fouth-eaft and
is loft among the deep recedes of the hills. To this fecond
turning I purfued my way about four miles along its border,
beyond a village fcattered among trees and called Watermil.
lock, in a pleafant grave day, perfectly calm and warm, but
without a gleam of funfhine ; then the fky feeming to thick
en, and the valley to grow more defolate, and the evening
drawing on, I returned by the way I camf , to Penrith,
Odt. 2, I fet out at ten for Kefwiek, by the road we went
in 1767 ; faw Greyftock town and caftle to the right, which
lie about three miles from Ulls-water over the fells ; paffed
through Penruddock and Threlkeld at the foot of Saddle-
Back, whofe furrowed fides were gilt by the noon-day fun,
whilft its brow appeared of a fad purple from the fhadow of
the clouds as they failed flowly by it. The broad and green
vallies of Gardies and Lowfide, with a fwift ftream. glittering
among the cottages and meadows, lay to the left, and the
much finer but narrower valley of St. John's opening into
it; Hill-Top, the large though low manfion of the Gafgarths,
now a farm houfe, feated on an eminence among woods,
tinder a fteep fell, was what appeared the moft confpicuous,
and befide it a great rock, like fome ancient tower nodding
to its fall. Paffed by the fide of Skiddaw and its cub, called
Latrigg ; and faw from an eminence, at two miles diftaiice,
the vale of Elyfium in all its verdure ; the fun then playing o"

ADDENDA. 293
»n the bofom of the lake, and lighting up all the mountains
with its luftre . Dined by two o'clock at the Queen's-Head,
and then draggled out alone to the paifonage, where I Imv
the fun fet in all its glory.
Oct, 3. A heavenly day ; rofe at feven, and walked out
under the conduct of my landlord to Bortowdale ; the grafs
was covered with a hoar-froft, which foon melted and exhaled
in a thin bluifh fmoke ; croffed the meadows, obliquely
catching a diverfity of views among the hills, over the lake
and iflands, and changing profpect at every ten paces. Left
Cockfhut (which we formerly mounted) and Caftle-Hill, a
loftier and more rugged hjll behind me, and drew near the
foot of Wallow-Crag, whofe bare and rocky brow cut per
pendicularly down above 400 feet (as I guefs, though the
people call it much more) awfully overlooks the way. Our
path here tends to the left, and the ground gently rifing, and
covered with a glade of fcattered trees and bufhes on the
very margin of the water, ppens both ways the moft delicioug
view that my eyes ever beheld. Oppofite are the thick woods
of Lord Egremont, and Newland valley, with green and
fmiling fields embofomed in the dark cliffs ; to the left, the
jaws of Borrowdale, with that turbulent chaos of mountain
behind mountain, rolled in confufion ; beneath you and
ftretching far away to the right, the fhining purity of the,
lake reflecting rocks, woods, fields, and inverted tops of hills,
juft ruffled by the breeze, enough to fhew it is alive, with the
white buildings of Kefwick, Crofthwaite church, and Skid
daw, for a back-ground at a diftance. Behind you the mag
nificent heights of Wallow-Crag ; here the glafs played itg
part divinely ; the place is called Carf-Clofe- Reeds; and I
chufe to fet down thefe barbarous names.that any body may
enquire on the place, and eafily find the particular ftation
that I mean. This fcene continues to Barrowgate, and a little
farther, paffing a brook called Barrow Beck, we entered
Borrowdale : the crags named Lowdore-Banks begin now to
impend terribly over the way, and more terribly when you
hear

2t>4 ADDENDA.
hear that three years fince an immenfe mafs of rocfe tumble^
at once from the brow, barred all accefs to the dale (for this
is the only road) till they could work their way through it-
Luckily no one was palling by at the time of this fall ; but
down the fide of the mountain, and far into the lake, lie dif-
perfed the huge fragments of this ruin, in all fhapes and in
all directions: fornethihg farther we turned afide into a cop
pice, afcending a little iri front of Lowdore waterfall : the
height appeared to be about 260 feet, the quantity of water
not great, though (thefe three days excepted) it had rained
daily for near two months before 1 but then the ftream was
nobly broken, leaping from rock to rock, and foaming with
fury. On one fide a towering crag, that fpired up to equal*
if not overtop the neighbouring cliffs (this lay all in fhade
arid darknefs ;) on the other hand a rounder, broader, project
ing hill, fhagged with wood, and illuminated by the fun,
which glanced fideways on the upper part of the cataract*
The force of the water wearing a deep channel in the ground,
hurries away to join the lake. We defcended again, and
paffed the ftream over a rude bridge. Soon after we came
under Gowdar-Crag, a hill more formidable to the eye, and
to the apprehenfion, than that of Lowdore ; the rocks at top
deep-cloven perpendicularly by the rains, hanging loofe and
nodding forwards, feen juft ftarting from their bafe in flu-
vers. The whole way down, and the road on both fides, is
ftrewed with piles of the fragments, ftrangely thrown acrofs
each other, ahd of a dreadful bulk ; the place reminds me
of thofe paffes in the Alps, where the guides tell you to
move with fpeed, and fay nothing, left the agitation of the
air ihould loofen the fnows above, and bring down a mafs
that would overwhelm a caravan. I look their counfel here,
and haftened on in filence.
Jfon ragioniam di lor, maguarda, e paffa.
The hills here are clothed all up their fteep fides with
«ak, afli, birch, holly, &c .fome of it has been cut forty years ago*

AptfENPA. *e$
ago, fonie within thefe eight years : ye* .all is-fprung againy
green, flourifhing, and tall, for its age, in a place where no'
foil appears but the flaring rpck, and where a man could
fcaree ftand upright. Here we met a civil young farmer
overfeeing his reapers (for it is now oat harveft) who con
ducted us to a neat white houfe in the village of Grange,
which is built on a rifing ground in the midft of a valley ;
round it the mountains form an awful amphitheatre, and
through it obliquely runs the Derwent, clear as glafs, and
fhewing under its bridge every trout that paffes. Befide the
village rifes a round eminence of a rock covered jntirely with
old trees, and over that more proudly towers Caftle-Crag,
invefted alfo with wood on its fides, and bearing on its naked
top fome traces of a fort, laid tp be Roman. By the fide
of this hill, which almoft blocks up the way, the valley
turns to the left, and contracts its dimenfions till there' is
hardly any road but the rocky bed of the river. The wood
of the mountains encreafes, and their fummits grow loftier
to the eye, and of more fantaftic forms; among them appear
Eagle's-Cliff, Dove's-Neft, Whitedale-Pike, &c. celebrated
names in the annals of Kefwick. The dale opens about fpur
miles higher, till you come to Seathwaite (where lies the
way, mounting the hill to the right, that leads to the wad-
mines ; ) all farther accefs is here barred to prying mortals,
only there is a little path winding over the tells, and for
fome weeks in the year paflable to the dalefmen ; but the
mountains know well that thefe innocent people will not
reveal the myfteries of their ancient kingdom, " the neign pf
Chaos and Old Night : " only I learned that this dreadful
toad, divided again, leads one branch tp Ravenglafti, arid the
oth# to Hawkfhead.
For me, I went no farther than the farfl&er's (better than
four miles from Kefwick) at Grange ; his mother and he
brought us butter that Siferah would have jumped at, though
not in a lordly difh, bowls of milk, thin oateff-cakes, and ale,
and we had carried a cold tongue thither with us. Our
farmer

2.66 ADDENDA.
farmer was himfelf the man that laft year plundered the ea
gle's eyrie: all the dale are up in arms on fuch an occafion,
for they lofe abundance of lambs yearly, not to mention
hares, partridges, groufe, &c. He was let down from the
cliff in ropes to the fhelf of the rock on which' the neft was
built, the people above fhoiiting and hallooing to fright the
old birds, which flew fereaming around, but did not dare to
attack him. He brought off the eaglet (for there is rarely
more than one) and an addle egg. The neft was roundifh,
and more than a yard over, made of twigs 'twilled together.
Seldom a year paffes but they take the brood, or eggs, and
fometimes they fhOot one, fometimes the Other, parent ; but
the furvivor has always found a mate (probably in Ireland)
and they breed near the old place. By his defcription I
learn that this fpecies is the Erne, the vulture Abicilla of
Linnseus in his laft edition (but in yours Falco Albicilla) fo
confult him and Pennant about it.
We returned leizurely home the way we came, but faw a
new landfcape ; the features indeed were the fame in part,
but many new ones were difclofed by the mid-day fun, and
the tints were iritirely changed : take notice this was the
beft, or perhaps the only day for going up Skiddaw, but I
thought it better employed ; it was perfectly fcrene, and ho.t
as midfummer.
In the evening I walked alone down to the lake, by the
fide of Crow- Park, after fun-fet, and faw 'the folemn co
louring of the night draw on, the laft gleam of funfhine fad
ing away on the hill tops, the deep ferene of the waters,
and the long (hadows of the mountains thrown acrofs them,
till they nearly touched the hithermoft fhore. At a diftance
¦were heard the murmurs of many waterfalls, not audible in
Che day time ; I wifhed for the moon, but fhe was dark to
me, and filent, Hid in her vacant interiunar cave'.
Oa, 4,

ADDENDA. 207
Oct. 4- I walked to Crow-Park, now a rough pafture,
once a glade of ancient oaks, whofe large roots ftill remain
in the ground, but nothing has fprung from them. If one
fingle tree had remained, this would have been an unpa
ralleled fpot : and Smith judged right when he took his print
of the lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, not too
high, on the very margin of the water, and commanding it
from end to end, locking full into the gorge of Borrowdale.
I prefer it even t»Cockfhut-Hill, which lies befide it, and to
which I walked in the afternoon ; it is covered with young
trees both fown and planted, oak, fpruce, Scotch-fir, &c.
all which thrive wonderfully. There is an eafy afcent to the
top, and the view far preferable to that on Caftle-Hill (which
you remember) becaufe this is lower and nearer to the lake j
for I find all points that are much elevated, fpoil the beauty
of the valley, and make its parts, vvhich are not large, look
poor and diminutive *. While I was here a little fhower
fell, red clouds came marching up the hills from the eaft, and
part of a bright rainbow feemed to rife along the fide of
Caftle-HilJ. From hence I got to the Parfonage a little before fun-fet,
and faw in my glafs a picture that if I could tranfmlt to
you, and fix it in all the foftnefs of its living colours, would
fairly fell for a thoufand pounds. This is the fweeteft fcene
I can yet difeover in point of paftoral beau£y ; the reft are
in a fublimer ftile.
oa 5.
* The piQurefque point is always thus low in all profpefts: a truth
which though the landfcape painter knows, he. cannot always obferve ;
fince the patron v!fho employs him to take a view of his place ufually
carries him to fome elevation for that purpofe, in order I fuppofe, that
he may have moie of him for his money. Yet when I fay this I would
not be thought to mean that a drawing Ihould be made trom the loweft
point poffible; as for inflance in this very view, from the lake itfelf,
for then a fore-ground would be wanting. On this account, when I
failed on Derwent water, I did not receive fo much pleafure from the
fuperb amphitheatre of mountains round me, as when, like Mr. Gray, I
^averted its margin j and therefore think he did not lofe much- by not
.faking boat.

268 ADDENDA.
Oft. 5. I walked through the meadows and corn-fields
to the Derwent, and crofting it went up How- Hill; it looks
along Baffenthwaite-water, and fees at the fame time the
courfe of the river, and a part of the upper lake, with a full
view of Skiddaw : then I took my way through Portinfcale
village to the Park, a hill fo called, covered entirely with
wood ; it is all a mafs of crumbling flate. Paffed round its
foot between trees and the edge of the water, and came to
a peninfula that juts out into the lake, and looks along it
both ways, in front rifes Wallow-Crag and Caftle-Hill, the
town, the road to Penrith, Skiddaw, and Saddle-Back. Re-
tnrning met a briflc and cold north-eaflern blaft, that ruffled
all the furface pf the lake, and made it rife in little waves
.that broke at the foot of the wood. After dinner walked
up the Penrith road two miles, or more, and turning into a
corn-field to the right, called Caftle-Rigg, faw a druid cir.
cle of large ftones, 108 feet in diameter, the biggeft not
eight feet high, but moft of them ftill ereft :' they are fifty
in number *t The valley of Stv John's appeared in fight,
and the fummits of Cachidecam (called by Camden Cafti-
cand) and Helvellyn, faid to be as high as Skiddaw, and td
rife from a much higher bafe.
Oft 6. Went in a chaife eight miles along the eaft fide
of Baffenthwaite-water to Oufe-Bridge, the road in forhe
part made, and very good, the reft flippery and danger
ous cart road, or narrow rugged lanes but no precipices ;
it runs direftly along the foot of Skiddaw. 'Oppofite to
Wythop-Brows, clothed up to the top with wood, a very
beautiful view opens down to the lake, which is narrower
and longer than that of Kefwick, lefs broken into bays,
and without iflands f. At the foot of it, a few paces from
• See this piece of antiquity more fully defcribed, with a plate an
nexed by Mr.Pennant, in his fecond tour to Scotland^ in 1772, Page 38.
f It is fomewhat extraordinary that Mr. Gray omitted to mention the
iflands on Derwent-water; one of which, I think they call it Vicar's ifland,
makes a principle object in the fcene. See Smith's view of Derwent-water.

Addenda 209
from thv brink, gently Hoping upwards, ftands Armathwaite*
>n a thick gtove of Scotch firs, commanding a noble view
direftly up the lake ; at a fmall diftance behind the houfe is
a large 'extent of wood, and ftill behind this a ridge of cul
tivated hills, on which, according to the Kefwick proverb^
the fun always- fhines. The inhabitants here, on the con
trary, call the vale of Derwent-water, the devil's chamberpot,
and pionounce the name of Skiddaw-Fell, which terminates
here, with a fort of terror and averfion. Armath waite-Houfe
io a modern fabrick, not large, and built of dark red ftone,
belonging to Mr; Spedding, whofe grandfather was fteward
to old Sir James Lowther, and bought this eftate of the
Highmores. The fky was bvercaft, and the wind cool ; fo
after dining at a public-houfe, which ftands here near the
bridge (that crdffes the Derwent juft where it iffues from
the lake), ahd faunteriag a little by the water fide, I came
home again; The turnpike is finifhed from Cockermouth
hither, five miles, and is carrying on to Penrith ; feveral little
Showers to day. A man came in who faid there was fnotf
on Crofs- Fell this morning.
Oft. j. I walked in the morning to Crow- Park, and irt
the evening up Penrith road; The clouds came rolling up
the mountains all round very dark, yet the moon fhone at
intervals. It was too damp to go towards the lake. To
morrow I mean to bid farewel to Kefwick:
Botany might be ftudied here to great advantage at ano.
ther feafon, becaufe of the great variety of foils and eleva
tions, all lying within a fmall compafs; I obferved nothing
but feveral curious lichens, ahd plenty of gale, or Dutch
myrtle, perfuming the borders of the lake. This year the
wad-mine had been opened, which is done once iri five years ;
it is taken out in lumps fometimes as big as a man's fift,
and will undergo no preparation by fire, not being fufibles
when it is pure, foft, black, and loofe-grained, it is worth
fometimes thirty fhillings a pound. There are no char ever
p taken

no ADDENDA.
taken in thefe Jakes, but plenty in Buttermere-water, which
Jies a little way north of Borrowdale, about Martinmas,
which are patted here. They fow chiefly oats and bigg
here, which ate now cutting and ftill on the ground'; the
rains have done much hurt ; yet obferve, the foil is fo thin
and light, that no day has paffed in which 1 could not walk
out with eafe ; and you know I am no lover of dirt. Fell
mutton is now in feafon for about fix weeks : it grows fat
on the mountains, and nearly refembles venifon. Excellent
pike and perch, here called bafs % trout is now out of fea
fon j partridge in great plenty, .
Oa. 8. I .left Kefwick, and took the Amblefide road, in
agloomy morning : about two miles \_ rather a mile]] from
the town, mounted an eminence called Caftle-Rigg, and the
fun breaking out difcovered the moft enchanting view I have
yet feen of the whole valley behind me, the two lakes, the
river, the mountains all in their glory ; fo that I had almoft
a mind to have gone back again. The road in fome few
parts is not completed, yet good country road, through
found but narrow and flony lanes, very fafe in broad day
light. This is the cafe about Caufeway-Foot, and among
Naddle-Fells, to Langthwaite. The vale you go in has little
breadth ; the mountains are vaft anc) rocky, the fields little
and poor, and the inhabitants are now making hay, and fee
not the fun by two hours in a day fo long as at Kefwick.
Came to the foot of Helvellyn, along which runs an excel
lent road, looking down from a little height on Leathes-
wa-ter (called alfo Thfrlmere, or Wythburn-water) and foon
defcending on its margin. The lake looks black from its
depth, and from the gloom of the vaft crags that fc'owl over
it, though really clear as glafs : it is narrow, and about three
miles long, refemblinga river in its courfe ; little^ fhining- tor
rents hurrying down the rocks to join it, but not a buih to
overfhadow them, or cover their march ; all is rock and
loofe ftones up to the very brow, which lies fo near your way
that not above half the height of Helvellyn pan be feen. Nex.f

ADDENDA. 21*
Nm I paffed by the little chapel of Wythburn, out of
which the Sunday congregation were then ¦iffuipg ; fppn after
a beck near Dunmail-Raife, where I entered W.eftmprland a
fecond time : and now began to fee Helm-Crag, diftinguifhed
irom its rugged neighbours, not fo much by its height as by
the ftrange broken outlines of its top, like fome gigantic
building demolifhed, and the ftones that compofed it fluiig
acrofs each other in wild confufion. Juft beyond it, opens
one of the fweeteft landfcapes that art ever attempted to
imitate. The bofom of the mountains fpreading here into a
bioad bafon difcovers in the midft Grafmere- water: its mar
gin is hollowed into fmall bays, with bold eminences ; fome
of rock, fome of turf, that half conceal and vary the figure
of the little lake they command ; from the fhore a low pro
montory pufhes itfelf far into the water, and on it ftands a
white village, with the parifh church rifing in the midft of
it ; hanging inclofures, corn-fields, and meadows, green as an
emerald, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, fill up the
whole fpace from the edge of the water ; and juft oppofite
to you is a large farm houfe, at the bottom of a deep fmooth
lawn„embofomed in old woods, which climb half way up
the mountains fide, and difeover above them a broken line
of crags that Crown the fcene. Not a fingle red tile, no
gentleman's flaring houfe, or garden walls, break in upon
the repofe of this little unfufpeaed paradife ; but all is
peace, rufticity, and happy poverty, in its neateft, moft
becoming attire. ¦ ' n
The road here winds over Grafmere hill, whofe rocks
foon conceal the water from youf 'fight ; yet it is continued
ilong behind them, and contraiftiog itfelf to a river, com
municates with Rydal-water, another fmall lake, but of in
ferior fize and beauty : it feems fhallow top* for large patches
of reeds appear pretty far within. Into this vale the road
defcends. On the oppofite banks large and ancient woods
mount up the hill ; and juft to the left of our way ftands
Rydal-Hall, the family feat of Sir Michael le Fleming, a
p 2 • large'

212 ADDENDA.
arge old-fafiiionctl fabrick, rounded with wood. Sir Mi
chael is now on his travels, and all this timber far and wide
belongs to him. Near the houfe rifes a huge crag, called
Rydal-Head, which is faid to command a full view of Win
dermere, and I doubt it not ; for within a mile, that lake is
vifible even from the road : as to going- up the crag, one
might as well go up Skiddaw.
I now reached Amblefide, fixteen miles from Kefwick,
meaning to lie there ; but on looking into the beft bed
chamber, dark and damp as a cellar, grew delicate, gave up
Windermere in defpair, and refolved I would go on to Ken
dal direaiy^ fourteen miles farther *. The road in general
fine turnpike, but fome parts (about three miles in all) not
made, yet without danger.
For this determination I was unexpeaedly well rewarded 3
for the afternoon was fine, and the road, for the fpace of full '
five
* By not flaying a little at Amblefide, Mr. Cray loft the fight of two-
magnificent cafcades : the one not half a mile behind the inn, the other
down Rydal-Crag, where Sir Michael le Fleming is ndw making a path
way to Che top of it. Thefe, when I few them, were in full torientj
whereas Lowdore waterfall, which I vifited in the evening of the very
fame day, was almoft without a ftream. Hence I coriolude that this dif-.
tinguiflied feature in the vale of Kefwick, is like moft of t}ie northern ri
vers, only in high beauty during bad weather. But his greateft lofs .was
in not feeing a fmall waterfall, vifible only through the window of a
ruined fummer-houfe in Sir Michael's orchard. Here nature has per
formed every thing in little that fhe ufually executes on her larger fcale ;
and on that account, like the miniature painter, feems to have finifhed:
every part of it in a ftudied manner; not a little fragment of a rock thrown
into the bafon, not a fingle ftem of brufhwood that ftilrts frpm its craggy
fidss, but has its picturefque meaning ; and the little central ftream, dalh-
ing down a cleft of the darkeft coloured ftone, produces an effect, of
light and (hadow beautiful beyond defcription. This little theatrical
fcene might be painted as large as tho original, on a canyafs not biggsr
rhan thofe ufually dropped in the opera-houfe.
[The inn at Amblefide has been greatly improved fince Mr. Cray's-
'ime, and is now as commodious- aS any in the country.]

ADDENDA. 213
five miles, ran along the fide of Windermere, with delicious
views acrofs it, and almoft from one end to the other. It is
tsn miles in length, and at moft a mile over, refembling the
courfe of fome vaft and magnificent river ; but no flat marfhy
grounds, no ofier beds, or patches of fcrubby plantations on
its banks : at the head two valleys open among the moun
tains; one that by which we came down, the other Langdale,
in which Wrynofe and Hardknot, two great mountains, rife
above the reft ; from thence the fells vifibly fink, and foften
along its fides; fometimes they run into it (but with a gen.
tie declivity) in their own dark and natural complexion ;
oftener they are green and cultivated, with farms interfperfed,
and round eminences, on the border covered with trees : to
wards the fouth it feemed to break into large bays, with
feveral iflands, and a wider extent of cultivation. The way
iifes continually, till a place called Orreft Head it turns
fouth-eaft, lofing fight of the water.
Paffed by Ings chapel, -and StaVely ; but I can fay no
farther, for the dufk of the evening coming on, I entered
Kendal almoft in the dark, and could diftinguifh only a fha
dow of the caftle on a hill, and tenter-grounds fpiead far and
wide round the town, which I miftook for houfes. My inn
promifed fadly, having two wooden galleries, like Scotland,
in front of it ; it was indeed an old ill-contrived houfe, but
kept by civil, fenfible people ; fo I ftayed two nights with
them, and fated and flept very comfortably.
Oa. 9. The air mild as fummer, all corn off the ground,
and the flcy -larks ringing aloud (by the way, I 'faw not one
at Kefwick, perhaps becaufe the place abounds in birds of
prey). I went up the caftle hill ; the town chiefly confifts
of three nearly parallel ftreets, almoft a mile long; except
thefe, all the other houfes feem as if they had been dancing
a country dance, and were out : there they ftand hack to
back, corner to corner, fome up-hill, fome down, without
intent or meaning. Along by their fide runs a fine brifk
ftream,

214 ADDENDA.
ftream, over which there are three ftotie bridges ; the build
ings (a few comfortable houfes excepted) are mean, of ftone
and covered with a bad rough-caft *.* Near the end of thd
town ftands a handfome houfe of Colonel Wilfor.'s, and ad
joining to it the church, a very large Gothic fabrick, with
a fquare tower, it has no particular Ornaments but double
aifles, and at the eaft end four chapels or choirs ; one of the
Parrs, another of the Stricklands, the third is the proper
choir of t,he church, and the fourth of the Bellinghams, a
family how extina. There is an altar tomb of one of them
dated 1577, with a flat brafs arms and quarterings ; and in
the window their arms alone, arg, a hunting horn fab. ftrung
gules. In the Strickland's chapel feveral monuments, and
another old altar tomb, not belonging to the family ; on the
fide of it a fefs dancette between ten billets deincourt. In
,the Parr's chapel is a third altar tomb in the corner, no
figuie or infcription, but on the fide cut an efcutcheon, of "
Rofs of Kendal (three water budgets) quartering Parr, (two
bars in a bordure engrailed) : 2dly, an. efcutcheon, vaire, a
fefs for marmion ; 3dly, an efcutcheon, three chevronela
braced, and a chief (which I take for Fitzhugh) ; at the foot
is an efcutchion, furrounded with the garter, bearing Rofs
and Parr quarterly, quartering the other two before men
tioned. I have no books to look in, therefore cannot fay,
whether this is the Lord Parr, of Kendal, Queen Catharine's
father or her brother the Marquis of Northampton ; perhaps
Jt is a cenotaph for the latter, who was buried at Warwick
in 1571. The remains of the caftle are feated on a fine hill
on the fide of the river oppofite the town ; almoft the whole
inclofureof the walls remain, with four towers, two fquare, and
* [The accounts of things given by hofly travellers are generally inaccu.
rate and often injudicious. As to the principal ftreets of Kendal, they are
neither three in number, nor nearly parallel. They are but two. One
about a mile in length, and another about half a mile. Thefe ftreets
contain indeed not many elegant houfes ; they are however on the whole
as open and well built as in moft other towns. As to the bad rough-caft
our author fpeaks of, judges of rough-caft, have always fuppofed this.
pountry no way deficient either in its materials, or in. the manner o£
laying it on.]

ADDENDA. 215
and two round,, but their upper parts or emhattlemenis arc
demolifhed ; it is of rough ftone and cement, without any
ornament or arms, round, inclofing a court of like form, and
furrounded by a moat : nor ever could it have been larger
than it is, for there are no traces ot out- works. There is a
good view of the town and river, with a fertile open valley
through which it winds.
After dinner I went along the Millthorp turnpike, four
miles, to fee the falls, or force of the river Kent ; came to
'Sizergh (pronounced Sifer), and turned down a lane to the
left. This feat of the Stricklands, an old catholic family, is
an ancient hall-houfe, with a very large tower, embattled ;
the reft of the buildings added to it are of a later date, but
all is white, and feen to advantage on a back ground of old
trees ; there is a fmall park alfo well wooded. Oppofite to
this, turning to the left, I foon came to the river ; it works
its way in a narrow and deep rocky channel, overhung with
trees. The calmnefs and brightnefs of the evening, the roar
of the waters, and the,, thumping of huge hammers at an
iron-forge not far diftant, made it a fingular walk ; but as
to the falls (for there are two) they are not four feet high.
I went on down to the forge, and faw the demons at work
by the light of their own fires ; the iron is brought in pigs
to Millthorp, by fea, from Scotland, &c. and is here beat
into bars and plates. Two miles further, at Levens, is the
feat of Lord Suffolk, where he fometimes paffes the fum
mer; it was a a favourite place of his late Countefs ; biit this
I did npt fee,
Oa. 10. I proceeded by Burton to Lancafter, twenty-two
miles ; very good country, well inclofed and wooded, with
fome common interfperfed. Paffed at the foot of Farlton-
Knot, a high fell. Four miles north of Lancafter, on a riling
ground, called Bolton (pronounced Bouton), we had a full
view of Cartmei fands, with here and there a paffenger riding
over them (it being low water) ; the points of Furnefs (hoot-

*i6 ADDENDA.
ing far into the fea, and lofty mountains, partly covered with
clouds, extending north of them. Lancafter alfo appeared
very confpicuous add fine ; for its moft diftlnguifhed features
the caftle and church, mounted on a green eminence, were
all that eould be feen. Woe is me ! when I got thither, it
was the fecond day of the fair; the inn, in the principle
ftreet, was a great old glopmy houfe, full of people ; but I
found tolerable quarters, and even flept two nights in peace.
In a fine afternoon I afcended the caftle-hill ; it takes' up
the higher top of the eminence on which ft ftands, and is
irregularly round, encompaffed with a deep moat : in front,
towards the town,, is a magnificent Gothic gateway, lofty
and huge : the overhanging battlements. are fupported by a
triple range of corbels, the intervals/pierced through, and
fhewing the day from above. On its to.p rife light watch
towers of fmall height. It opens below with a grand ^ointed
arch ; over this is a wrought tabernacle, doubtlefs once con
taining its founder's figure ; on one fide a fhield of France
femi-quartered vvith England ; on the other the fame, with
a label, ermine, for John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter. This
opens to a cpurt within, which I did not much care to enter,
being the county goal and full of prifoners, both criminals
and debtors. From this gateway the walls continue and
join it to a vaft fquare tower of great height, the lower
part at leaft of remote antiquity ; for it has fmall round-
headed lights, with plain fhort pillars on each fide of them :
there is a third tower, alfo fquare, and of lefs dimenfions.
This is all the caftle. Near it, and but a little lower, ftands
the church, a large and plain Gothic fabrick, the high fquare
tower at the weft end has been rebuilt of late years, but
nearly in the fame ftile ; there are no ornaments of arms, &c.t
any where to be feen ; within it is lightfonae and fpacious,
^but not one monument of antiquity or piece of painted glafs
is lefr. From the church-yard there is an extenfive fea-view
(for now the tide had almoft covered the fands, and filled
the river) and befides the greateft part of Furnefs, I could
diftinguifb.

ADDENDA. ai;
diftinguifh Peel-Caftle on the ifle of Fowdry, which' lies off
its fouthern extremity. The town is built on the flope,
and at the foot of the caftle-hill, more than twice the bignefs
of Auckland, with many neat buildings of neat white ftone,
but a little diforderly in their pofition, and "ad libitum,"
like*Kendal ; many alfo extend below, pn the quays, by the
river fide, where a number of fhips were moored, foroe of
them three mailed veffels, decked out with their colours in
honour of the fair. Here is a good bridge of four arches
over the Lune, that runs, when the tide is out, in two
ftreams, divided by a bed of gravel, which is not covered
but in fpring tides ; below the town it widens to near the
breadth of the Thames at London, and meets the- fea at
five or fix miles diftance to fouth-weff.
Oa. u. I croffed the river and walked over a peninfula,
three miles, to the village of Poulton, which ftands on the
beach. An old fifherman mending his nets, (while I enquir
ed about the danger of paffing thofe fands), told me in his
dialea, a moving ftory ; how a brother of the trade, a Cockier,
as he ftiled him, driving a little cart with two daughters
(women grown) in it, and his wife on horfeback following,
fet out one day to pafs the feven mile fands, as they had been
frequently ufed to do : (for nobody in the village knew them
bttter than the old man did) when they were about half-way
over, a thick fog rofe, and as they advanced they found the
water much deeper than they expeaed ; the old man was
puzzled ; he Hopped, and faid he would go a little way to
find fome mark he was acquainted with ; they ftaid a while for
him, but in vain ; they called aloud, but no reply : at laft the
young women preffed their mother to think where they were,
and go on ; fhe would not leave the place ; fhe wandered about
forlorn and amazed ; fhe would not quit her horfe and get
into the cart with them ; they determined after much time
wafted, to turn back, and give themfelves up to the guidance
of their horfes. The old woman was foon wafhed off, and
perifhed ; the poor girls clung clofe to their cart, and the
horfe

2i8 ADDENDA.
horfe, fometimes wadingand fometimes fwimming, brought
them back to land alive, but fenfelefs with terror and diftrefs,
and unable for many days to .give any account of themfelves.
The bodies of their parents were found the next ebb : that
of the father, a very few paces diftant from the fpot where he
had left them.
In the afternoon I wandered about the town, and by the
quay, till it grew dark.
Oa. 12. I fet out for Settle by a fine turnpike road
twenty-nine miles, through a rich and beautiful country,
diverfified with frequent villages and churches, very unequal
ground ; and on the left the river Lune winding in a deep
valley, its hanging banks clothed w,ith fine woods, through
which you catch long reaches of the water, as the road winds
about at a confiderable height above it. In the moft pic-
turefque part of the way, I paffed the park belonging to the
Hon. Mr. Clifford, a catholic. The grounds between him
and the river are indeed charming * ; the houfe is ordinary,
and park nothing but a rocky fell, fcattered over with an
cient hawthorns. Next I came to Hornby, a little town
on the river Weaning, over which a handfome bridge is now
building ; the caftle, in a lordly fituation, attraaed me, fo
I walked up the hill to it ; firft prefents itfelf a large white
ordinary fafhed gentleman's houfe, and behind it rifes the
ancient keep, built riy Edward Stanley, Lord Monteagle. He
died about 1529, in King Henry VIII's time. It is now only
a (hell, the rafters are laid within it as for flooring. I went up
• This fcene opens juft three miles from Lancafter, on what is calleil
the Queen's- road- To fee the view in perfection, you muft go into a
field on the left. Here Ingleborough, behind a variety of leffer mountains,
makes the back-ground of the profpeel ; on each hand of ths middle
diftance, rife two doping hills; the left clothed with thick woods,
the right with variegated rock and herbage : between them in the rich-
eft of vallies, the Lune ferpentizes for many a mile, and comes forth.
ample and clear, through a well wooded and ricMy pafWd fore
ground. Every feature which conftitutesa perfect landfcape of the ex-
tenfive fort, is here not only boldly marked, but alfo in its beft pofition.

ADDENDA. 219
up a winding ftone ftair-cafe, in. one corner, to the leads, and
at the angle is a fingle hexagon watch-tower, rifing fome
feet higher, fitted up in the tafte of a modern fummer-houfe,
with fafh windows in gilt frames, a ftucco cupola, and on
the top a vaft gilt eagle, built by Mr. Charteris, the prefent
poffeffor. He is the fecond fon of the Earl of Wemyfs,
brother to the Lord Elcho, and grandfon to Colonel Char
teris, whofe name he bears.
From the leads of the tower there is a fine view of the
country round; and much wood near the caftle. Ingleborough
which I had feen before diftinaiy at Lancafter to north-eaft,
was completely wrapped in clouds, all but its fummit ; which
might have eafily been miftaken for a long black cloud too,
fraught with an approaching ftorm. Now our road began
gradually to mount towards the Appenine, the trees growing
lefs, and thinner of leaves, till we came to Ingleton, eighteen
miles ; it is a pretty village, fituated very high, and yet in
a valley, at the foot of that huge monfter of nature, Ingle-.
borough : two totrents crofs it, with great ftones rolled
along their beds inftead of water ; and over them are flung
two handfome arches. The nipping air, though the afternoon
was growing very bright, now taught us we were in Craven j
the road was all Tip and down, though no where very fteep :
to the left were mountain tops, to -the right a wide valley,
all inclofed ground, and beyond it high hills again. In ap
proaching Settle, the crags on the left drew nearer to pur
way, till we defcended Brunton-Brow into a chearful valley
(though thin of trees) to Gigglefwick, a village with a fmall
piece of water by its fide, covered with cots : nearit a church.
which' belongs alfo to Settle ; and half a mile farther, having
paffed the Ribble over a bridge, I arrived there ; it is a frnalf
market town ftanding direaiy under a rocky fell ; there
are not in it above a dozen good looking houfes, the reft
are old and low, with little wooden porticos in front. My
inn pleafed me much (though fmall) for the neatnefs and
civility of the good woman that kept it ; fo I lay there two
pights and went, Oft. 13,

220 ADDENDA.
Oa. 13. To vifit the Gordale-Scar, which lay fix mile8
from Settle ; but that way was direaiy over a fell, and as the
weather was not tp be depended on, I went round in a chaife,
the only way one could get near it in a carriage, which made
it full thirteen miles, half of it fuch a road 1 but I got fafe
over it, fo there is an end, and came to Malham, (pronounced
Maum) a village in the bofom of the mountains, feated in a
wild and dreary valley. From thence I was to walk a mile
over very rough ground, a torrent rattling along on the left
hand ; on the cliffs above hung a few goats ; one of them
danced, and icratched an ear. with its hind foot, in a place
where I would not have ftood ftock-ftill
For all beneath the moon.
As I advanced, the crags feemed to clofe in, but difcovered
a narrow entrance turning to the left between them ; I fol
lowed my guide a few paces, and the hills opened again into
no large fpace ; and then all further way is barred by a ftream
that at the height of about fifty feet, gufhes from a hole in
the rock, and fpreading in large fheets over its broken front,
dallies from fteep to fteep, and then rattles away in a toirent
down the valley ; the rock on the left rifes perpendicular,
with flubbed yew-trees and fhrubs ftarting from its fides, to
the height of at leaft 300 feet ; but thefe are not the thing ;
it is the rock to the right, under which you ftand to fee the
fall that forms the principal horror of the place. Frpm its
very bafe it begins to flppe forward over you in one black or
fplid mafs withput any crevice in its furface, and overfhadows
half the area below its dreadful canopy i when I ftood at (I
believe) four yards diftant from its foot, the drops which per
petually diftil from its brow, fell on my head ; and in one
part of its top, more expofed to the weather, there are loofe
ftpnesthat hang in the air, and threaten vifibly fome idle fpec-
tator wjth inftant deftruftion ; it is fafer to fhelter yourfelf
clofe to its bottom, and truft to the mercy of that enormous
njafs, which nothing but an earthquake can ftir. The gloomy
uncomfortable

ADDENDA. iii
uncomfortable day well fuited the favage afpect of the place^
and made it ftill mote formidable; I flayed there, not with
out fhuddering, a quarter of an hour, and thought my trouble'
richly paid ; for the impreffion will laft for life. At the
alehoufe where I dined in Malham, Vivares, the landfcape
painter, had lodged for a week or more ; Smith and Bellers
had alfo been there, and two prints of Gordale have been
engraved by thern.
Oa. [4. Leaving my comfortable inn, to which" I had
returned from Gordale. I fet out for Skipton, fixteen miles.
From feveral parts of the road, and in many places about
Settle, 1 faw at once the three famous hills of this country,
Ingleborough, Pennygant, and Pendle ; the firft is efteemed
the higheft, and their features not to be defcribed, but by
the pencil *. Craven,
* Without fhe pencil, nothing indeed is to be defcribed with precifion ;
and even then that pencil ought to be in the very hand of the writer, ready
to fupply with outlines every thing that his pen cannot exprefs by words.
As. far as language can deicribe, Mr. Gray has, I think, pufhed its powers s
for rejecting, as I have before hinted, every general unmeaning and hyper>
bolical phrafe, he has feleeted (both in this journal, and on other fimilar
occafions) the plaineft, fimpieft, and moft direct terms;- yet notwithftand-
ing his judicious care in the ufe of thefe, I muft own I feel them drfective.
They prefent me, it is true, with a picture of the fame fpecies, but not
v«th the identical picture ; my imagination receives clear and diftinct, but
not true and exaS images. It may b'e afted then, why am I entertained by
well written deferiptions ? I anfwer, becaufe they amufe rather than inform
me ; arid becaufe, after I have feen the places defcribed, they ferve to recal
K my memory the original fcene, almoft as well as the trueft drawing or
pictme In the meanwhile my mind is flattered by thinking it has ac
quired fome conception of the place, and refts contented in an innocent
error, -which nothing but occular proof can detect, and which, when def
lected, does not diminiih t'.ie pleafiifeT had before received, but augments
it, by fuperaddicg the charms of companion and verification; and herein
1 would place the real and onty'merit of verbal profe defcription. To
fpeak ef poetical, would lead me beyond the limits as well as purpofe of
this note. I cannot, however, help adding, that 1 have ften dfie piece of
verbal defcription which completely fati6fies me, becaufe it is throughout
afiifted by mafterly delineation. It is compofed by the R«. Mr. Gilpm, of

242 ADDENDA;.
Craven, after all, is an unpleafing country. when feen from
a height ; its vallies aie chiefly wide, and either marfhy or
ihclofed pafture, with a few trees. Numbers of black cattle
are fatted here, both of the Scotch breed, and a larger fort
of oxen with great horns. .There is little cultivated ground,
except a few oat6.
Skipton, to which I went through Long- Prefton and Gar-
grave, is a pretty large market town, in a valley, with one
very broad ftreet gently Hoping downwards from the caftle*
which ftands at the head of it. This- is one of the good
Countefs's buildings *, but on old foundations : it is not very
large, but of a handfome antique appearance, with round
towers. A. grand gateway, bridge, and moat, furrounded
by many old trees. It is in good repair and kept up as the
habitation of the Earl of Thanet, though he rarely comea
thither ; what with the fleet, and a foolifh difpute about
chaifes, that delayed me, I did not fee the infide of it, but
went
of Cheam, in Surry ; and contains, among other places, an account of the
very fcenes which, in this tour, our author vifited. This gentleman pof-
fefling the conjoined talents of a writer and defigner has employed them in
this manufcipt to every purpofe of pidturefque beauty, in the defcription of
which a correct eye, a practifed pencil, and an eloquent pen could aflift him.
He has, confequtntly, produced a work unique m its kind at once. But I
have laid it is in manufcript, and, I am afraid, likely to continue fo ; for
would his modefty permit him to print it, the great expence of plates would'
make its publication almoft impracticable.
[This excellent note feems to contain the jufteft criticifm on the nature
and powers cf -verbal defer ijjtioti, as applied to Jandfrapa and profpefti.
And now that the reader has tone through our author's fpecimens of it
in the foregoing Guide, if it appear, that he has not availed himfelf of
thefe precepts as much as he might have done, he may make a fcrutiny
into his errors, a critical leffon, in the next degree ufeful to inftructions
derived from fuch examples as Mr. Gray's ; and thus reap improvement
as well ' as amufement, from the efforts of a hafly aud redundant pen,
 Mr, Gilpin's tour is now publifhed.],
* Anne Countefs of Pembroke and Montgomery,

ADDENDA. 423
went on fifteen miles to Otley ; firft up Shpde-Bar.k, the
fteepeft hill I ever faw a road carried over in England, for it
mounts in a ftraight line (without any other repofe for the
horfes than by placing ftones every now and then behind the
wheels) for a full mile ; then the road goes on a level along
the brow of this high hill over Rumbald-Moor, till it gently
defcends into Wharldale, fo they call the vale of the \jfbarf,
and a beautiful vale it is, well wooded, well cultivated, well
inhabited, but with high crags at a diftance, that border the
green country on either hand ;, through the midft of it, deep,
clear, and full to the brink, and of no inconfiderable breadth,
runs in long windings, the river. How it comes to pafs that
it fhould be fo fine and copious a ftream here, and at Tad-
cafter (fo much lower), fhould have nothing but a wide ftony
channel without water, I cannot tell you. I paffed through
Long-Addingham, likely (pronounced Eecly) diftinguifhed
by a lofty brow o'f loofe rocks, to the right ; Burkley, a neat
and pretty village among trees ; on the oppofite fide of the
river lay Middleton-Lodge, belonging to a catholic gentle
man of that name ; Wefton a venerable ftone fabrick, with
large offices, of Mr.Vavafour, the meadows in front gently
defcending to the water, and behind a great and fhady wood j
Faruley (Mr. Fawkes's) a place like the laft, but larger,
and rifing higher on the fide of the hill. Otley is a large
airy town, with clean, but low ruftic buildings, and a bridge
over the Wharf ; I went into its fpacious Gothic church,
which has been newroofed, with a flat flucco-cieling ; in-
a corner of it is the monument of Thomas Lord Fairfax, and
Helen Afke, his Lady, defcended from the Cliffords and
Latimers, as her epitaph fays ; the figures (which are not ill
cut, particularly his in armour, but bare headed) lie on the
tomb. I take them to be the parents of the famous Sir
Thomas Fairfax,

ARTICLE

424 ADDENDA-
ARTICLE IV.
ODE TO THE StfN,
SY MR. CUMBERLAND, PUBLISHED IN 1776s
Soul of the world, refulgent Sun,
Oh take not from my ravifht fight
Thofe golden beams of liying light*
Nor, ere thy daily courfe be run,
Precipitate the night.
Lo, where the ruffian clouds arife,
Ufurp- the abdicated fides,
And feize the astheiial throne ;"'
Sullen fad the fcene appears,
•Huge Helvellyn ftreams with tears !
Hark 'tisgiant Skiddaw's groan,
I hear terrific Lowdore roar ;
The Sabbath of thy reign is o'er
The anarchy's begun ;
Father of light, return ; break forth tefulgerit fun !
What if the rebel blaft fhall rend
¦Thefe nodding horrors from the mountain's brow ¦¦' .
Hither thy glad deliverance fend,
Ah fave the votarift, arid accept the vow !
And fay, through thy diurnal round,
Where, great fpea'ator, haft thou found
Such folemn fofil-inviting fhades,
Ghoftly dells, religious glades ?
Where Penitence may plant its meek abode,
And hermit Meditation meet its God.
Now by the margin of the glaffy deep
My penfive vigils let me keep ;
There, by force of Runic fpells,
Shake the grot where Nature dwells : And

ADDENDA 22j
Ahd in the witching hour of night,
Whilft thy pale lifter lends her fhadowy light,
Summon the naked wood nymphs to my light.
Trembling now with giddy tread,
Prefs the mofs on Gowdar's head ;
But lo, where fits the bird of Jove,
Couch'd in his eyrie far above ;
Oh,_ lend thine eye, thy pinion lend,
Higher, yet higher let me ftill afcend ; s
'Tis done ; my forehead fmites the Ikies,
To the laft fummit of the cliff I rife ;
I touch the facred ground,
Where ftep of man was never found ;
I fee all nature's rude domain ardund.
Peace to thy empire, queen of calm defires,
Health crown thy hills, and plenty robe thy vales j
May thy groves wave untouch'd by wafteful firesj
Nor commerce crowd thy lakes with fordid fails !
Prefs not fo fall upon my aching fight
Gigantic fhapes, nor rear your heads fo.high,
As if ye meant to war againft the fky,
Sons of old Chaos arid primaeval Night.
Such were the heights enfhrined Bruno trod,
When on the cliffs he hung his tow'ririg cell,
Amoflgft the clouds a'fpired to dwell,
And half afcended to his God.
The prim canal, the level green,
The clofe-clipt hedge that bounds, the flourifht fcene,'
What rapture can fuch forms impart,
With all the fpruce impertinence of art ?
Ye pageant ftreams, that roll in ftate
By the vain windows of the great,
Reft on your muddy ooze, and fee
<L Old

22'S ADDENDA-
Old majeftic Derwent force
His independent courfe,
And learn of him and nature to be free :
And you, triumphal arches, fhrink,
Ye temples, tremble, and ye columns, fink,
One nod from Wallow's craggy brow
Shall crufh the dome
Of facerdoial Romp,
And lay her glittering gilded trophies low.
Now downward as I bend my eye,
What is that atom I efpy,
That fpeck in nature's plan ?
Great Heaven is that a man ?
And hath that little wretch its cares,
Its ficaks, its follies, and its airs ;
And do I hea r the infea fay,
" My lakes, my mountains, my domain ? "
O weak, contemptible, and vain !
The tenant of a day.
Say to old Skiddaw, " change thy place. "
Heave Helvellyn from his bafe,
Or bid impetuous Derwent ftand,
At the proud waving of a mafter's hand.
Now with filent ftep and flow
Defcend, but firft forbear to blow
Ye felon winds, let difcord ceafe,
And nature feal an elemental peace :
Hufh, not a whifper here,
Beware, for echo on the watch,
Sits with erea and liftening ear
The fecrets of the fcene to catch :
Then fwelling as fhe rolls around,
The hoarfe reverberated found,
With loud repeated fhocks
She beats the loofe impending rocks,

Tear

ADDENDA. 227
Tears down the fragments big with death,
And hurls it thundering on the wretch beneath,
Net fo the Naiad*, fhe defies
The faithlefs echo, and with yelling cries
Howls on the fummit of rude Lowdore's brow J
Then with a defperate leap
Springs from the rocky fteep,
And runs enamour'd to the lake belovv.
• * So the Cambrian minftrel ftood
Bending o'er old Conway's flood,
White as foam his filver beard,
And loud and fhrill his voice was heard :
All the while down Snowden's. fide,
Winding flow in dread array,
He faw the viaor king purfue his way ;
Then fearlefa rufh'd into the foaming tidei
Curf'd him by all his idol gods, and died.
Ah ! where is he that fwept the founding lyre,
And while he touch'd the mafter firing,
Bad ruinfeize the ruthlefs king,
With all a prophet's fire ?
Mourn him, ye naiads, and ye wood-nymphs mourns
But chiefly ye who rule o'er Kefwick's vale,
Your vifitor bewail,
And pluck frefh laurels for his hallowed urn ;
He faw your fcenes in harmony divine,
On him indulgent funs could fhine,
Me turbid Ikies and threat'ning clouds await,
Emblems, alas ! of my ignoble fate.
But fee the embattled vapours break,
Difperfe and fly,
Polling like couriers down the fky ;
The grey rock glitters in the glaffy lake
o_2 And
* This alludes to the great waterfall at Lowdore,

M& ADDENDA.
And now the mountain tops are feen
Frowning amidft the blue ferene ;
The variegated groves appear,
Beckt in the colours of the waning year ;
And as new beauties they unfold,
Dip their Skirts in beaming gold.
Thee favage Wyburn, now I hail,
Delicious Grafmere's calm retreat,
And (lately Windermere I greet,
And Kefwick's fweet fantaftic vale i
But let her naiad3 yield to thee,
And lowly bend the fubjea knee,
Imperial lake of Patrick's dale * :
For neither Scottifh Lomond's pride»
Nor fmooth Killarney's filver tide,
Nor ought that learned Pouflin drew,
Or dafhing Rofa flung upon my view,
Shall fhake thy fovereign undifturbed right,
Great fcene of wonder and fublime delight I
Hail to thy beams, O fun ! for this difplay,
What, glorious orbi can I repay ?
Not Memnon's coftly fhrine,
Not the white couriers of imperial Rome,
Nor the rich fmoke of Perfia's hecatomb ;
Such proud oblations are not mine ;
Nor thou my fimple tribute fhall refufe,
The thanks of an unproftkuted mufe ;
And may no length of ftill returning day
Strike from thy forehead one refulgent lay ;
But let each tuneful, each attendant fphere,
To lateft time thy flated labours chear,
And vvith new Poeans crown the finifht year.
ARTICLE-
* This alludes to the great lake of Ulls-water, fituate in Patterdale, i.e.
Bati-ick's dale, a fcene of grandeur and fublimity far fuperior, in my opinion,
to the lake of Kefwick,

ADDENDA. 329
ARTICLE V.
A DESCRIPTION OF
DUNALD-MILL-HOLE By Mr. A. W.
TAKEN FROM THE ANNUAL REGISTER FOR I76G,
Lancafter, Auguft 26, 1 760.
Last Sunday I vifited a cavern about five miles from
hence, near the road to Kirkby-Lonfdale, called Dunald-
Mill-Hole, a curiofity, I think, inferior to none of the kind in
Derbyfhire, which I have alfo feen. It is on the middle of a
large common, and we are led to it by a brook, near as big
as the new river, which after turning a corn-mill, juft at the
entrance of the cave, runs in at its mouth by feveral beautiful
cafcades, continuing its courfe two miles under a large moun
tain, and at laft making its appearance again near Carnforth»
a village in the road to Kendal. The entrance of this fub-
terraneous channel has fomething moft pleafingly horrible in
it. — From the mill at the top, you defcend for about ten
yards perpendicular, by means of chinks in the rocks, and
fhrubs of trees; the road is then almoft parallel to the horizon,
leading to the right, a little winding, till you have fome hun
dreds of yards thick of rocks and minerals above you. In
this manner we proceeded, fometimes throngh vaults fo ca
pacious, we could not fee either roof or fides ; and fometimes
on all four, from its narrownefs, ftill following the brook,
which entertained us with a fort of harmony well fuiting the
place ; for the different height of its falls were as fo many-
keys of mufic, which all being conveyed to us by the amazing
echo, greatly added to the majeftic horror which furrounded
us. In our return we were more particular in our obfervations.
The beautiful lakes (formed by the brook in the hollow part
of the cavern) realize the fabulous Styx ; and the murmuring
falls from one rock to another, broke the rays of our candles, fo

£3° ADDENDA.
fo as to form the moft romantic vibrations and appearances
Upon the variegated roof. .The fides too are not lefs remark
able for fine colouring ; the damp, the ci'-eeping vegetables,
and the feams in the marble and limeftone parts of tl.e rock'
make as many tints as are feen in the rainbow, aad are co
vered with a perpetual varnifh from the juft weeping fprings
that trickle from the rOof. The curious in grottos, cafcades,
&c. might here obtain a juft tafte of nature. When we .ar
rived at the mouth, and once more hailed all-chearing day,
light, I could not but admire the uncouth manner in which
natnre has thrown together thofe huge rocks, which com.
pofe the atch over the entrance, but as if confcious of its
rudenef6, fhe has clothed it with trees and fhrubs of the
moft various and beautiful verdure, which bend downwards,
and with their leaves cover all the rugged parts of the rock
As I never met with an account pf this place in afiy other
author, I therefore think it the greater curiofity ; but its
pbfeure fituatior. I take tp be the reafon.
[Parties, returning from the tour of the lakes to Lancafter,
who chufe to fee the above natural curiofity muft leave the
Lancafter road to the left, at the guide poll, for Kellet, about
4 miles from Burton. When in the village (a mile far
ther on) enquire for the road to the mill, which is then near z
miles diftant. Perhaps, when arrived at the cavern, if the
traveller fhould not think it equal to his expectation and trouble \
it may yield him fome compenfation to enjoy one of the beft
profpeas in the country, which is then about a mile off.
Though hitherto unnoticed, a good deal, I think, might be
juftly faid in its praife ; but previous defcription is generally
more tirefome than welcome. — To find this view, proceed
eaftward, in the direaion of the laft lane leading to the mill,
to the top of the higheft rife that you will fee on the common
before you, and you will be at the ftation. A very, little to
the eaft, you will fee a good road on the moor leading to
Lancafter, diftant about 4 miles, and the ride will foon enter
tain with feveral agreeable objeas on the banks ofthe Lune."]
ARTICLE

ADDENDA £31
ARTICLE VI.
A DESCRIPTION
SF SOME NATURAL CURtOSITIES IN THE WESTERN EDCg
OF YORKSHIRE, BY MR. iOAM WALKER, LECTURER JN
NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. TAKEN FROM THE GENERAL
-EVENING POST, SEPT. 25, I779.
SIR,
I here fend you an account of a tour I made fom etime
ago, through the mountains and caverns near Settle which
I think no way inferior to thofe of Derbyfhire.
Nigh the chape] in the dale, on the north fide of Ingle
borough, I met with three caverns that are totally unlike
any in this ifland, tho' caverns are common in all limeftone
countries. The firft (nigh the chapel) is a pit finking from
an even furface about forty yards into the ground, and is,
about the fame number of yards in diameter. At the bot
tom is a deep pool of water, from whence iffues a fubterra-
neous brook, but through fo narrow a paffage, that in wet
- weather, the cavern fills up, and overflows its brim.- — A
quarter of a mile above this is another pit, of a paiallelopiped
form, being a chafm between two perpendicular rocks, and
tho' upwards of forty yards deep, one may eafily leap over it.
It feems one of thofe breaks, or faults (as miners call 'em)
where the regular ftrata have been broken, and one part of
them has funk below the other ; for the bands of rock lie
pretty horizontal, and in their fiffures are found foffils of
very curious genera, fhells, fifh-bones, pipy-flints, with con
cretes of fhells, ftones, mofs, and other vegetables, in one
mafs. Small fcrew-like cylinders, fome with holes through,
which alfc<ffervefce with an acid, and creep in a plate filled
with vinegar, like thofe found near Carrickfergus, in Ire
land, .by the difeharge of their fixed air. Bat

23s ADDENDA.
But a couple of hundred yards above this, another cavern
Opens, much more aftonifhing than the others. The firft
approach to this prefents a perpendicular defcent from nearly
a level furface, beautifully bordered with trees and fhrubs,
¦which nature feems to have meant as a guard as well as beauty.
On one fide you may defcend, by crawling from one broken
ftratum of rock to another, till you are twenty yards beneath
the furface ; in the defcent one may reft between the pro-
Jeering parts of the rock, or creep many yards horizontally
between them, where we fhall find the rocks and ftones en-
crofted with fpar, and the cavernous parts filled with petrf-
faaions, in the fhape of fhells, mofs, icicles, &c. Moft of
the fparry and roof incruftations, I take to be the fine par
ticles of the limeftone diffolved by the rain water, in its de
fcent through the rocks, which finking (lowly through the
roof of thefe caverns, the water evaporates, and leaves the
fine particles of ftone to concrete behind, forming hollow
conic figures on the roof; or if they fall on the bottom of
the cavern, form thofe knobs of calcarious foffil which, cut
off horrizontally, are polifhed into curioufly vatiegated flabs.
That the fame impregnated waters falling on fhells, fifh-
bones, &c. fhould in time difplace the calcarious matter of
which thefe are naturally formed, and that thefe ftony par
ticles ihould in time affume the fame fhape, and form the
fhells, bones, fnakes, &c, fo commonly found in limeftone
countries, I cannot fay I am fo clear in,— May it not be
t,hat nature has ordained, that particles of f.ch and fuch
properties, meeting with a proper nidus in the bowels of the
earth, and fimilar to that in which they may affemble on
the out-fide of an animal, may run into the fame forms, and
amufe us with the fhape of cockles, limpets, fnakes, &c.
formed in the middle of rocks ?
But to reaffume our journey down this amazing cavern. —
After defcending from ledge to ledge in a retrograde mo
tion, through arches of prodigious rocks, thrown together
by the rude but awful hand of nature, at the depth of 70
yardss

ADDENDA. 433
yards, we fee a parabolic cafcade, rufhing from a hole nigh'-
the furface, and falling the whole 70 yards, with a roar
which, reverberated by the rocks above, confounds and aflo-
nifhes the moll intrepid ear! The fpiay arifing from this
cafcade fills the whole cavern; and if the fun happens to
fhine into it, generates a moft vivid and furprifing rainbow.
Another cafcade, of not quite fo great a fall, iffues perpen
dicularly from a projecting' rock with equal rapidity as the
firft. and is ceuainly a part of the fame fubtenaneous brook ;
they fall together into a narrow pool at the bottom, which
meafures 37 yards in depth ; and proceeding underground
about a mile, bre.ik out, and form the large brook that runs
by Ingleton, and from thence to the river Lune. In the time
of great rains, the fubterraneous channel that conveys away
the water becomes too fmall, and then the cavern fills to the
depth of above Ico yards, and runs over at the furface.
To a mind capable of being imprefied with the grand and
fublime of nature, this is a fcene that infpires a pleafure
chaflifed by aftonifhment ! Perfonal fafety alfo infinuates
itfelf into the various feelings, where both the eye and eat
are fo tremendoufly affailed.— — To fee as much water as
would turn feveral mills, rufh from a hole near 70 yards
above the eye, in fuch a projeaile as fhews its fubterraneous
fall to be very confiderable before it enters the cavern ; and
to fee the fine Ikirting of wood, with various fantaftic roots
and fhrubs through a fpray, enlivened by a perfea rainbow,
fo far above the eye, and yet within the earth, has fome
thing more romantic and awful in it than any thing of the
kind in the three kingdoms !
Afcending from the dark excavations we found at the
bottom of this dreary cavern, we once more blefs ourfelves
in broad day-light, and begin to mount the rugged fides of
frowning Ingleborough. Its top may have been a Roman
ftation for any thing I know ; there are certainly the remains
of a great circular ditch that inclofes tbe fummit, but the
extenfive

234 ADDENDA.
extenfive and variegated profpea feduced me from conjeaures
and learned furmifes., The fouthern profpea is a rugged
barrier that feems to turn the eye towards the fine plains of
Lancafhire and Chefhire; with our glaffes we could eafily dif-
tinguifh the Dee feprarate the plain from the Welch moun
tains ; the fine indentations made by the bays of Liverpool
and Prefton, lead the eye northward to that of Lancafterj
which appeared beneath our feet as a map, full of capes and
inlets. But the fea in front, and the Weftmorland mountains
to the right, make the fublime of this profpea ; — before us
the flat fields and woods infenfibly melt into union with the
fea — while the black mountains frown over that element,
and feem to fpurn it from their feet. The Hill-Bell,Langdale-
Pikes, Black-Comb, &c are eafily diftinguifhed in this chaotic
affemblage ; while the<coaft of Galloway in Scotland, and the
Ifle of Man, feem as clouds in the back-ground. The eaft
profpea is a range of rich fheep moors of which Ingleborough
appears the furly fentry. In our road to Settle we met with
the Ribble, which tumbles into a deep cavern, and is loft in
the bowels of the mountains for upwards of three miles, when
it iffues again into day-light, and with a continued roat makes
its way to Settle. From hence I rode through a dreadful fog
to Malm (or Malham) about fix miles to the eaft, and the
road ending in a fheep traa upon the high moors, was in
much danger of lofing my way ; but a blaft of wind giving
me a glimpfe of the vale, I got there very fafe.
My firft excurfion was to the tarn, (or little lake) fkirted
on one fide by a peat bog, and rough limeftone rocks on
the other ; it abounds in fine trout, but has little elfe remark -
able, except being the head of the river Air, which iffuing
from it, finks into the ground very near the lake, and appears
again under the fine rock which faces the village. In the
time of great rains this fubterraneous paffage is too narrow ;
the brook then makes its way over the top of the rock falling
in a moft majeftic cafcade full 60 yards in one fheet. This
beautiful tock is like the age- tinted wall of a prodigious caftle :

ADDENDA. 235
fraftle ; the ftone is very white, and from the ledges hang
various fhrubs and vegetables, which with the tints given it
by the bog'water, &c. gives it a variety that I never before
law fo pleafing in a plain rock. Gordale-Scar was the objea
of this excurfion. My guide brought me firft to a fine fheet
cafcade, in a glen about half a mile below the fear, the rocks
of a beautiful variegation and romantic fhrubbery. We then
proceeded up the brook, the pebbles of which I found incruft-
ed with a foft petrified coating, calcarious, flimy, and of a
¦light brown colour. — I faw the various ftrata of the limeftone
mountains approach day-light in extenfive and ftriking bands,
running nearly horizontal, and a rent in them (from whence
the brook iffued) of perpendicular immenfe rocks : — on turn
ing the corner .of one of thefe, and feeing the rent complete
— good heavens ! what was my aftonilhment ! The Alps, the
Pyrenees, Killarney, Loch-Lomond, or any other wonder
of the kind I had ever feen, do not afford fuch a chafm ! 
Confider yourfelf in a winding ftreet, with houfes above an
hundred yards high on each fide of you ; — then figure to
yourfelf a cafcade rufhing from an upper window, and tum
bling pver carts, waggons, fallen horfes, Sec. in promifcuous
ruin, and perhaps a cockney idea may be formed of this
tremendous cliff. But if you would conceive it properly,
depend upon neither pen nor pencil, for 'tis impoffible for
either to give you an adequate idea of it. — I can fay no more
than that I believe the rock to be above ioo yards high,
that in feveral places they projea above ioo yards oyer their
bafe, and approach the oppofite rock fo near that one would
almoft imagine it poffible to lay a plank from one to the
other. At the upper end of this rent (which may be about
300 yards horizontally long) there gufhes a moft threatning
cafcade though a rude arch of monftrous rocks, and tum
bling through many fantaftic maffes of its own forming, comes
to a rock of entire petrifaaion, down which it has a variety
pf piaurefque breaks, before it enters a channel that conveys
jt pretty uniformly away. — I take thefe whimfical fhapes tp
be the children of the fpray, formed in droughty weather, when

236 ADDENDA.
when the water has time to evaporate, and leave the ftony
matter uninterrupted in its cohefion. Thefe petrifaaions
are very porous : crumbly when dry, and pulpy when wet,
and fhaped a good deal like crooked knotty wood.
I found here a ftratum of white clay, perfeaiy free from
grit, when tried by the teeth ; it does not effervefce with an
acid, nor diffolve in water. When dry 'tis as white as this
paper ; light, clofe, foapy, compaa, and very hard. It ap
pears to me like the petuntzee of the Chinefe, and though I
have not tried it in the fire, believe it might be well worth
the china or pot manufaaurer's examination.
I am, Sir, your humble fervant,
ADAM WALKER.
JJo 2?, Haymarket, London,
September 20, 1779.
[It is apprehended the printer muft have made a miftake
in the dimenfions of the natural curiofities at Chapel in the
Dale : if we read feet, inftead of yards, we fhall be much
neater the truth.
— There are feveral curious particulars relating to Ingle
borough not mentioned in the above defcription, which may
be feen in an accurate account of this mountain, publifhed
in the Annual Regifter for 1 761.
The objeas defcribed in the above letter lie in the York-
ftiire road from Kendal to London, and may be beft vifited
from Kendal on your return from the lakes.— The route will
be thus. From Kendal to Kirkby-Lonfdale 12 miles. From
thence to Ingleton 7 miles. From thence to Chapel in the
Dale 4 miles, where enquiry muft be made for the curiofities
Jn that neighbourhood.— Proceed from thence to Settle, by
Horton 10 miles, which is 6 miles diftant from Gor dale-Scar. ]
ARTICLE

ADDENDA. 237
ARTICLE VII.
A TOUR TO THE CAVES,
IN THfi
WEST- RIDING OF YORKSHIRE.
IN A LETTER TO A FRJEND *.

Of antres vaft, and deferts idle,
Rough quarries, rocks, and hilk, whofe heads touch heaven,
It was my hint to fpeak. Shakespeare's Othello, Aft. J„
SIR,
Accorbing to promife, I fit down to give you ar»
account of our fummer's excurfion. — After having made
the tour of the lakes, we were induced to proceed from'
Kendal by Kirkby-Lonfdale, Ingleton, Chapel in the Dale,
Horton, and Settle, in order to fee the eaves and other natu
ral curiofities in Craven, in the Weft-riding of Yorkfhire.
This fecond part of our tour was more entertaining to moft
of the party than the firft, being peculiarly adapted to our
tafte for natural hiftory, for the great and fublime. While fome
are pleafed with the gay and beautiful, others are only to be
roufed and affcaed by the grand and terrible. The ftrong
and nervous fenfations require objeas proper for their grati
fication, no lefs than the moft nice and delicate taftes. — If
elegant profpeas and the refinements of art are fuited to thefe,
the rough, irregtilar, and ftupendous works of nature, are no
lefs adapted to the enjoyments of the former. Objeas ac
commodated
* This work, with the addition of feme philofophical conjectures on the
deluge, remarks on the origin of fountains, and obfervations on the afcent
and defcent of vapours, occafioned by facts peculiar to the places vifited,
alfo a gloffary of old words ufed in the north «f England ; may. be had ef
the publishers, price is. 6(U

238 ADDENDA.
commodaled to the hardihood of a genius truly fublime, are
only to be met vvith in this ifland, among the wild and irre
gular mountains of the north, among the roaring cataraa8
that roll foaming down precipitate from their, lofty fummits,
and the huge and dreary caverns, or profound and yawning
chafms they contain within their fides : — it is here that nature
delights, as it were, to perform her magnificent works in
fecret, filently fatisfied with felf approbation. — As the moft
amufing part of our tour, was in a country not much frequent
ed by the curious and fpeculative traveller, and never yet de
fcribed to the public, an account of the objeas we met vvith,
may perhaps be not unentettaining : they may tend alfo t<,
excite the curiofity of vifiting thofe unfrequented, yet ex
traordinary parts of our own native country, and to commu
nicate that rational pleafure, which a benevolent mind wifhes
every one of the fame fentiments to partake of.
About fix o'clock, one morning in-June, we fet off from
Kendal, and after- travelling about a dozen miles, along a
good turnpike road over Endmoor, and Cowbrow, we arrived"
at Kirkby-Lonfdale foon after eight. About the mid-way
we left the little fleep white mountain, Farlon-Knot, on the
right about a mile It is all compofed of folid limeftonej
and is two or three hundred yards in height. Thofe who'
have feen both, fay, that on the weft fide it is very like the
rock of Gibralier. There were feveral good manfion houfes
by the road fide, which, at the beginning of this century,
were inhabited by a fubftantial fet of yeomanry, and coun
try gentlemen, the moft ufeful members of a community :
they are now however moftly let out to farmers ; the defire
of improving their fortunes in trade, or the pleafure of liv
ing in towns, have induced the owners to leave them : — re
veries of fortune, or new attachments, have caufed many to
fell them, after they had been continued many centuries
Jn their families. Kirkby Lonfdale is a neat, well paved,
clean town, ornamented with feveral genteel houfes, ad
joining to fome of which are elegant gardens, The houfes ar?

ADDENDA. 239
are covered with blue flate, which has an agreeable effeft
on the eye of a ftranger. A fmall brook runs through the
market ftreet, which is ufeful and commodious to the in
habitants : afterwards it turns feveral mills in its fteep de
fcent to the river Lune. The church is a large and decent
ftruaure. The roof is covered with lead, and fupported by
three rows of pillars. The fteeple is a fquare tower, con
taining fix bells , the mufic of which we were entertained
with at nine o'clock, they being played on by the chimes
every three hours. Oppofite to the church gates is the old
hall, taken notice of one hundred and fifty years ago by
drunken Barnaby in his Itinerary. — It is ftill an inn, and no
doubt keeps up its ancient charaaer.
Veni Lonfdale, ubi cernam
Aulam faSam in tabsrnam ;
Nitidis porta, nivei muri,
Cyathi pleni, pauca cure ;
Edunt, bibunt, ludunt, rident,
Curd dignum, nihil vident.
I came to Lonfdale, where I flaid
At Hall, into a tavern made ;
Neat gates, white walls, nought was fparing,
Pots brimful, no thought of caring ;
They eat, dtink, laugh, are ftill mirth making ;
Nought they fee that's worth care taking.
On our entrance into the church-yard we were ftruck with
the neatnefs and elegant fimplicity of the vicarage houfe,
which faced us. The pleafant garden adjoining, ornamented
with a neat octagonal fummer-houfe, commanding one of
the moft delightful profpefts of nature, muft render this
fweet retreat an happy abode to the worthy vicar.
We walked through the church yard, which is large and
fpacious, along the margin of an high and fteep bank, to a
neat white manfion houfe full in view, fomewhat above half
a mile

240 ADDENDA.
a mile diftant, called Underlay.* — The profpea vvas of th<
moft amufing kind. At the foot of the fteep bank on" which
we walked, being about forty or fifty yards penpendicular,
glided the large, pellucid river Lune, amongft the rocks and
p bbles, which amufed the ear, whilft the eye was enter
taining itfelf with a vaft variety of agreeable objeas. A
tranfparent fheet of ftill water about half a mile in length
lay llretched out before us : at the high end of it was a
grotefque range of impending rocks of red ftone, about thirty
yards in perpendicular height, which had an excellent effea
in the fcene, both by their colour and fituation. We were
told that in winter this precipice was in fome parts fo gla
zed over with ice, from the trickling water down the furface,
as to make it appear like a fheet of alabafter. From other
parts of the impending rocks hung great and enormous ici
cles, which made it -appear like a huge organ.
After the e'ye had traverfed over a rich and fertile vale,
-Variegated with woods and country houfes, the profpea was:
terminated with a chain of lofty mountains, which run in a
direaion from fouth to north", parallel to the couife of the
river. The neareft were not above two or three miles off,
and looked like the bold and furly fentries of a legion, that
fee:r>ed ftationed behind them. On our return we were
amufed with profpeas of a different nature. The church
and town before us enlivened the fcene : fome mill-wheels,
between them and the river, added an agr-eeable variety with
their motion. The vale beneath feemed to dilate and ex
pand itfelf; the few parts of it which were vifible, afforded
fufficient ground to the imagination to conceive an affern-
blage of the moft entertaining objeas. Ingleborough, whofe
head was wrapt in a cloud, ftood the fartheft to the fouth in
the rank of mountains which faced us.
After breakfaft, we walked by the fide of the river to
the bridge. The channel is deep, the ftream rapid, among
rocks, the banks on each fide covered with trees pf various
foliage,

ADDENDA, 24k
foliage, which ferve both as defence and ornament. The
bridge is the moft lofty, ftrong, ancient, and ftriking to the
eye of a ftranger, of any I have yet feen. It is built of
freeftone, has three arches, two large and one fmaller ; the
height from the furface of the water to the top of the centre
arch, except in a flood, is about twelve yards. The arches
are of the ribbed fort, which make the appearance the more
grotefque. There is no memorial of its foundation ; a ne
gative argument of its vaft antiquity. We were indeed
amufed with one anecdote of its founder, which feemed to
be a remnant of the ancient mythology of the north, and
one inflance, among many, of eafily accounting for any
thing that is marvellous. The country people have a traT
dition, that it was built by the devil one night in windy
weather ; he had but one apron full of ftones for the pur
pofe, and unfortunately his apron-firing breaking as he flew
with them over Cafterton-Fell, he loft many of them out, or
the bridge would have been much higher.
From the top of the bridge the profpea down the river
is delightful ; the fides of the deep channel covered with
trees, are nearly parallel for half a mile, and the water one
continued furface, fave here and there where a pointed rock
lifts up its head above the ftream. We walked down by the
fide of the river about a mile, and as we proceeded were
continually prefented with new profpeas, while the foft
murmurs of the river afforded a variety of different notes.
The vale of Lonfdale dilating by degrees, prefented us in
fucceffion with the different feats and villages that adorn
it: Whittington and Arkholme to the weft; Tunftal, Melling,
Hornby, and its caftle, to the fouth ; and Leek to the eaft.
The brown and blue mountains of Burnmore and Lyth-Fell
terminated the view, which we could have wifhed had ex
tended ftill farther to the fouth. While we were feleaing
various objeas for our amufement, we fuddenly and infenfibly
arrived at Overborough, the feat of Thomas Fenwick, Efq.
a modern houfe, and one of the largeft and moft elegant in
r th'e.

242 ADDENjDA.
the county of Lancafter, being fituated, on a rifing grounJ,
though near the 1 iver Lune, its different fronts command
all the delightful profpeas which the vale affords. During
our excurfion through the gardens and pleafure grounds
adjoining, we Were prefented with views of a different
fort to any we had hitherto enjoyed. Sometimes we were
embowered with woods and lofty trees— nothing of the ad
jacent country to be feen, fave here and there the blue peak
of Ingleborough, or fome neighbouring mountain, till we
cioffed a broad villa, whiqh fuddenly exhibited a new and
unexpeaed fcene of the winding vale beneath. A ftranger
in going from the hall to the gardens muft be ftruck with a
furprife bordering on terror, on viewing the profound and
gloomy glen by the fide of his way. The trees which guard
this fteep bank prevent the eye from feeing the river Leek,
",'hich flows through a chafm amongft rocks, at the bottom ;
imagination is left to conceive the caufe of the deep and
folemn murmurs beneath.
Our ideas of the beauties of art and nature were mellowed
and refined by thpfe of venerable antiquity. We were now
oa claffic ground, Overborough being moft undoubtedly a
Roman ftation and garrifon, the Bremetonaca of the emperor
Antoninus, as may be colteaed from Tacitus, and other an
cient writers. Bremetonacas is placed, twenty Roman, or
eighteen Englifh miles north of Coccium, or Ribcheller ;
and tvventy-feven Roman or twenty-four Englifh miles fouth
of Galacum, vvhich fome antiquaries conceive to be Apulby,
though ethers with more probability think it was Brough.
The diftances correfpond, befides the additional, argument of
their being nearly in the famedireaion, whether we conceive
Galacum to be Apulby or Brough. The Roman road is eafily
traced from Ribchefter into Yorkfhire, running on the north
fide of Slaidburn, through Croffa-Greta, then on the north
fide of Tatham chapel, through Bentham to- Overborough *.
Afterwards
* A full account of the antiquities of ffremefonaca, or Overborough, marj
be feen in a quarto volume publifhed by Richard Rauthmell.

ADDENDA. 243
Afterwards the Roman road goes through Cafterton, and
Middleton, and as fome think, by Borrow-Bridge, and Or-
ton, to Apulby. Others, and perhaps from better reafons,
are of opinion, the road went by Sedbergh, or Sedburgh *,
over Blewcafter, along Ravenftondale-Street, and through
Kirkby-Stephen, to Brough, or Burgh. For Antoninus's
tenth Itinerary runs from Glanoventa. or Lanchefter, in the
county of Durham, by Galacnhi, Bremetonacse, Coccium,
Mancunium, or Manchefter, to Glenoventa, or Dratonj in
the county of Salop. In various places by the fide of this
road are hicrh artificial mounts of earth, which were without
doubt the ftation of centinels, to prevent any infurreclions,
or being furprifed by an enemy : they may be now feen en
tire at Burton in Lonfdale, Overborough, Kirkby-Lonfdale,
and Sedbergh. There are feveral lateral ones, as at Lune*
Bridge near Hornby, at Melling, and Wennington. On our
return we had the bridge full in view moft of the way : its
antiquity and greatnefs made its prefence venerable and re-
fpecred. About a furlong before we arrived at the bridgei
the town of Kirkby-Lonidale appeared in a point of view
peculiarly pleafing. The high walls of a gentleman's gar
den, which were between us and the town, made it like a
fenced city in miniature ; the tower fteeple of the church
rifing proudly eminent above the blue flated houfes, with
which it was on every fide furrounded.
f We mounted our horfes at the bridge, about eleven
o'clock, having ordered them down thither in order to fave
half 3n hour in going up the town for them. We travelled
R 2 near
* Cbefier, or Cafter, is derived from the Latin word eaftrtim, or camp
Street is derived from the Latin word Jiratum, or military road, or caufpaiay.
Borough, or Burgh, from the Greek word purgos, or -watch tower.
, f If the traveller is diftrefied for time, and has no inclination to take a
fecond view of the river Lune and its environs, he may urder his licrfe to
be "fent to Cewan-Bridge, and walk through the park of Borough-Hall-
Where he may be entertained with a variety of other profpects;

244 ADDENDA.
near the bottoms of the mountains, on the fide of Lonfdale*
along the turnpike road, about an hour, being in three
counties in that fhort interval, Weftmorland, Lancafhire, and
Yorkfhire, and amidft a variety of entertaining profpeas.
The number of fmall carts laden with coals, and each drag
ged by one forty horfe, that we met, was furprifing to a
ftranger. Many of the fmaller farmers, betwixt -Kirkby
Lonfdale and Kendal, earn their bread with carrying coals,
during 'moft part of the year, from the pits at Ingleton,
,Black- Burton, or properly Burton in Lonfdale, to Kendal,
and the neighbouring places, for fuel, and burning lime, iri
order to manure their land. Thefe beds of coal we were
informed, are fix or leven feet in thicknefs. A fteanvengine
vvas ereaed at Black -Burton more commodioufly to work
their beft collieries. A furvey was lately fubferibed for to
be made, in order to have a canal from thefe pits to Lan
cafter, where coals might be exported ; as alfo to Kendal
and Settle, vvhich are towns much in want of fuel.
After we had got about fix miles from Kirkby-Lonfdale,
to a public-houfe called Thornton- Church-Stile, we ftopped to
procure a guide, candles, lanthorn, tinder-box, &c. for the
purpofe of feeing Yordas-Cave, in the vale of Kingfd&le, about
four miles off. By the advice of a friend, we took alfo with
us a baiket of provifions, which we found afterwards were
of real fervice. When we had gone about a mile, wc were
entertained with a fine cafcade, called Thornton- Force, near
fome flate quarries, made by the river iffuing out of Kingf-
dale. This cataraa had fome features different to any we
had yet feen among the lakes ; but which greatly conduced
to render it peculiarly engaging. Part of the river tumbled
with impetuofity fram the top of a ftratum of huge rocks,
perpendicularly about 20 yards : another part of it, in fearch
of a nearer and lefs violent courfe, had difcovered a fubter-
ranean paffage, and gufhed out of the fide of the precipice :
when they immediately again united their ftreams in a large,
round, deep, and black bafon at the' bottom. From the
margin?

ADDENDA. 245
margin of this pool the view may be taken to the greateft
advantage : the high rock on the fouth and oppofite fide,
about half a dozen yards higher than the cafcade, and
mantled with fhrubs and ivy, leaves nothing on that hand
for the imagination to fupply. If the archetype vvas not
m being, it might be thought the fubterranean ftream was
added to the piaure, by the ingenuity of the artift, in order
to give a finifhing ftroke to the beauty of the fcene. This
little river is worthy the company of the curious tourift for
about a mile along its courfe through a deep grotefque glen,
fortified on each fide by fteep or impending high rocks.
About a mile higher we came to the head of the river,
which iffues from one fountain called Keld's-Head *, to all
appearance more copious than St. Winifred's-Well, in Flinf
fhire ; though there is a broken, Terpentine, irregular chan
nel, extending to the top. of the vale, down which a large
ftream is poured from the mountains in rainy weather. We
now found ourfelves -in the midft of a fmall valley about three
miles long, and fomewhat more than half a mile broad ; the
moft extraordinary of any we had yet feen : it was fur
rounded on all fides by high mountains, fome of them the
loftieft of any in England, — Whernfide to the fouth-eaft, and
Gragareth to the north. There vvas no defcent from this
vale, except the deep chafm where we faw the cafcade. It
feemed opened in fome diftant age, either by the gradual
effea of the warning of the river, or fome violent and ex
traordinary Jiooi, burfting open the rugged barrier that pent
it up : the vale above has all the appearance of having Been
once a lake, from the flatnefs of its furface, and its rich foil,
like a fediment fubfided on the bottom of a ftagnant water.
We were informed, that the fubterranean cafcade beneath,
juft now mentioned, has but lately made its appearance, and
is every day more and more enlarging. We were quite In
cluded from the world-, not an habitation for man in view, but
* KeU, feems the ancient Saxon or Eritifll word for fprhg ir fountain,
Mid is often made ufe cf in that fenfe in thefe parts of Yorkfliiie,

24(3 ADDENDA.
but a lonely fhepherd's houfe, with a little vyood, and a few
inclofures near it, called Breada-Garth ; it is on thenorth fide
of an high mountain, feldom vifited by man, and never by
the fun for near half a year. The fhepherd, its folitary
inhabitant, with longing eyes looks for returning verdure,
when the fun begins to throw his benign rays on the fo
litary abode. No monk or anchoret could defire a more
retired iituation for his cell, to moralize on the vanity of
the world, or difappointed lover to bewail the inconftancy
of his nymph. The foil feemed the deepeft and richelt, in
fome parts of this vale, of any we had ever obfetved, and no
doubt is capable of great improvement. We could not but
lament, that inftead of peopling the wilds' and deferts of
North America, our fellow fubjeas had not peopled the fer
tile waftes of the north of England. We have fince indeed
been informed that a plan is iii agitation for having it in
clofed, when no doubt but it will fupport fome fcores of
additional families. While we were muling on the many
bad effeas of peopling diftant countries, and negleaing our
own, we arrived at the objea of this excurfion, Yordas-cave ;
it ii almoft at the tQp of the vale, on the north-weft fide of
it, under the high mountain Gragareth. We difcovered it
by fome fheep-folds at the mouth of a rugged gill or glen,
in which we fafely pent up our horfes. In rainy feafons we
were told a copious ftream is poured dovyn this gill, and a
cafcade falls over the very entrance into the cave, fo as to
prevent any further apptoach. We however were favoured
by the weather, and met with no obftacle of that natpre to
ftop our ingrefs, but boldly entered a large aperture to the
left, into the fide of the mountain, like the great door of
fome cathedral. Having never been in a cave before, a
thoufand ideas, which had been for many years dormant,
were excited in my imagination on my er.tiance into this
gloomy cavern. Several paffages out of Ovid's Metamor-
phofes, Virgi1, and other daffies, crowded into my mind
together. At one time I thought it like the den where
Cadmus met the huge ferpent. Silva

ADDENDA. 247
Silva ~vetus Jlabat , nulla violata fecuri ;
EJlfpecus in medio virgis ac vimene denfus,
Ejficiens humikm lapidum compagibus arcum ;
Uberibus fccundus aquis. Hoc conditus crntro
Martius anguis erat. Ovid's Met. B. 3. Fab. I-
Within this vale there rofe a fhady wood
Of aged trees ; in its dark bofom ftood
A bufhy thicket, pathlefs and unworn,
O'errun with brambles, and perplex'd with thorn :
Amidft the brake a hollow den was found,
With rocks and fhelving arches vaulted round ;
Deep in the dreary den, conceal'd from day,
Sacred to Mars, a mighty dragon lay. Addifon.
Indeed there wanted nothing but an ancient wood, to
rrjake one believe that Ovid had taken from -hence his lively
defcription. As we advanced within this antrevajl, and the gloom and
horror increafed, the den of Cacus and the cave of Poliphe-
mus, came into my mind. I wanted nothing but a Sybil
conduarefs with a golden rod, to imagine myfelf like .5Lneas,
going into the infernal regions*. The roof was fo high,
and the bottom and fides fo dark, that with all the light we
could Drocure from our candles and torches, we were not
able to fee the dimenfions of this cavern. The light we had,
feemed only darknefs vifible, and would ferve a timid ftran
ger, alone, and ignorant of his fituation,
To conceive things monftrous, and worfe
Than fables yet have feigned, or fearconceiv'd,
Gorgons, and hydras, and chimeras dire. Milton. The
* See Virgil's yEneidrL. 3. 1. 616, and L.6, 1.505, and h. 6. 1. 234.

248 ADDENDA.
The height of this cave was fomewhere between a dozen
and twenty yards, the breadth about the fame dimenfion
with the height, and the length at leaft fifty or fixty yards.
Some of the party, who had feen both, thought it much
more ftupendous and magnificent than the famous Peak's-
Hole, in Derbyfhire.
' Having paffed a fmall brook, which one of the party called
the Stygian lake, we came to the weftern fide of the cave.
It is a folid perpendicular rock of black marble, embellifhed
with many rude fketches, and names of perfons now long
forgotten, the dates of fome being above two hundred years
old. After we had proceeded thirty or forty yards north
ward, paft fome huge rocks that had fometime fallen from
the loof or fide, and arrived at a colonnade of rude moffy pil
lars, ftanding obliquely on their bafes, the road divided itfelf
into two parts, but not like that of JEneas, when defcending
into the realms of Pluto ;
Hac inter Ely fum nobis ; ai lava malorum
Exercetptenas, et ad impia Tartarus mittit.
Virgil's ^Eneid, B. 6. /. 54Z.

'5Tis here in different paths the way divides ;
The right to Pluto's golden palace guides :
The left to that unhappy region tends,
Which to the depth of Tartarus defcends ;
The feat of night profound, and punifh'd fiends.

}

No, they both had a divine tendency ; on the right was the
bifhop's throne, and oh the left the chapter-houfe, fo called
from their refemblance to thefe appendages of a cathedral.
Here we could not but lament the devaft ation made in the
ornaments of thefe facred places ; fome Goths, not long fince,
having defaced both throne and chapter-houfe of their pen
dent petrified works, which had been fome ages in forming.
The little cafcades which fell in various places from the roof and

ADDENDA. 249
sr.d fides with different trilling notes, ferving to entertain
the ear with their watery mufic ; while the eye was bufy in
amuling itfelf with the curious refkaions which were made
by our lights from the ftreams and petrifaaions which ap
peared all around us. We were told by our guide, what a
great effea the difeharge of a gun or piftol would have upon
our ears ; but not being defirous to carry our experimental
philofophy fo far as to endanger or to give pain to the or
gans of hearing, we were not difappointed in having no
apparatus for the. purpofe. We followed a winding paffage
amongft high and grotefque pillars, being led by the noife
of a falling ftream, till we arrived at the chapter-houfe,
From the dome of this natural edifice fell a fine and clear
cafcade into a bafon of tranfparent water, which ferved in a
peculiar manner to embellifh the works of nature, in a ftile
fuperior to any thing we can have in thofe of art. We
were fhewn a low and narrow paffage on one of the (helves
of the rock near the chapter-houfe, which we were informed
led to a wider path, extending itfelf into the heart of the
mountain ; but our curiofity was fatisfied without crawling
among the rocks befmeared with flime and mud.
If we had not been cautioned, to beware of coming out too
fuddenly, left the quick tranfition from the dreary gloom of
the cavern into the glare of funfhine fhould injure the fenfe
of feeing, the curiofity for exploring every part in our re
turn, now when our eyes were more opened, was fufficient to
retard our fteps, and prevent a too hafty egrefs. While we
were regaling ourfelves with the provifions we had brought,
we enquired of our guide, if he could furnifh us with any
curious anecdotes relative to this cave. After informing
us that it had been alternately the habitation of giants and
fairies, as the different mythology prevailed in the country,
he mentioned two circumftances we paid fome attention to.
About fifty or fixty years ago, a madman efcaped from his
friends at or near Ingleton, and lived here a week in the win
ter feafon, having had the precaution to take off a cheefe, and

250 ADDENDA.
2nd fome other provifions to his fubterranean hermitage. A
"•here was fnow on the ground, he had the cunning of Cacue,
(fee Virgil's, JEneid L. 8. 1. 209) to pull the heels off his
fhoes, and fet them on inverted at the toes, to prevent being
traced : an inflance, among many others, of a madman's
reafoning juftly on fome detached part of an abfurd plan, or
hypothefis. Since that time he told us, a poor woman big
with child, travelling alone up this inhofpitable vale, to that
of Dent was taken in labour, and found dead in this cave.
We now proceeded to examine the pits and chafms appa
rently caufed by the water after it has run through the cave :
we afcended the hill a little higher to view the gill above
the cave : a fit earn of water flowed down it, which entering
an aperture in the rock, we could fee defcend from fteep to
fteep a confiderable way. We made no doubt but it was the
fame ftream which afterwards falls down through the roof
of the chapter-houfe. Here was alfo a quarry of black
marble, of which elegant monuments, chimney pieces, flabs,
and other pieces of furniture, are made by Mr. Tomlinfon, at
Burton in Lonfdale ; when polifhed, this marble appears to
be made up of entiochi, and various parts of tellaceous and
pifcofous reliques.
We were perfuaded to climb up to the top of the bafe of
Gragareth, the mountain in whofe fide Yordas is fituated, in
order to fee Gingling-Cave. It is on the edge of the flat bafo
of the mountain, on a green plain by the fide of a brook,
looking down into the vale, Ingleborough appearing a little
to the left or north-eaft of Breada*Garth, which was almoft
oppofite. This natural curiofiy is a round aperture ; narrow
at the top, but moft probably dilating in its dimenfions to a
profound extent. The ftones we threw in made an hollow
gingling noife for a confiderable time. At intervals we could
hear nothing of their defcent, then again we heard them re-
found in deeper keys, till they were either immerfed in fome
deep pool or were arrived at too great diftance to be heard ;
for

ADDENDA. 251
lor there feemed a variety of different paffages for their
defcent, fome being much fooner intercepted in their career
than others. Two dogs that were vvith us and a fmall horfe
brought up by one of the party, feemed violently agitated,
and under fearful trepidations, under horrors refembling thofe
we are told the animal creation are feized with, preceeding
or during an earthquake. Though our reafon convinced us
of the impoffibility of the ground falling in beneath us, we
could not but feel many apprehenfions, accompanied with
fenfations hitherto unknown. We could not learn that any
fwain had ever been adventurous enough to be let down in
ropes into this vaft hiatus, to explore thofe unfeen regions,
either from a principle of curiofity, or to fearch for hidden
mines. We were informed of fome other openings into this
mountain of a like kind with Gingling-Cave, but being at a
diftance and of an inferior nature, we returned to Yordas for
our horfes, which we had pent up in the fheep-folds ; and
proceeding down the vale, we croffed over it at the bottom
to Tvvifleton, and foon arrived at Ingleton.
* After we had regaled and relied ourfelves comfortably at
the Bay-Horfe, we took an evening walk about a mile above
the town, to the flate quarries by the fide of the river Weafe»
or Greta, which comes down out of Chapel-in-the-dale, and
joins the Kingfdale river at Ingleton. Here we had objeas
both of art and nature to amufe ourfelves with ; on one hand
was a precipice ten or twelve yards perpendicular, made by
the labour of man, being a quarry of fine large blue flate,
affording
* If the tourift Would proceed immediately to Chapel-in-the-dale, he
may go either below Breada-Garth to Twifleton, and then turn up the vale
to Chapel-in-the.dale; or, which is a nearer road, he may crofs Kingfdale
above Bieada-Garth, and afcend the mountain, purfuing a rough and not
well defined road, taking care to keep on the fouth-weft fide o i a fwamp»
near an hill, or heap of ftones, called an hurder, on the bafe of Whernfide,
and then to turn round the weft corner of the mountain: afterwards he
muft turn his courfe eaiterly along the bafe of the mountain, till he comes
to fome lanes, any of which will lead him by fome houfes down to the
chapel, ip the middle of the vale between Whernfide and Ingleborcugh.

252 ADDENDA.
affording an ufeful and ornamental cover for the houfes iii
the adjoining parts of Yorkfhire, Lancafhire, and Weftmor
land ; on the other hand was the river rolling down from rock
to rock in a narrow deep chafm, where there was no room
for human foot to tread between the ftream and the rugged>
high, fteep rocks on each fide. Several pieces of the flate
were befpangled with yellow marcafites of a cubic form, and
different fizes, others were gilded over with the various fo
liages of ferns, pines, oaks, and other vegetables. This bed
of flate runs nearly from fouth to north by this place and the.
quarry near Thornton-Force. Its length may be traced two
or three miles, though but 200 or 300 yards in breadth, and
indeed of good flate but a few yards broad: the plain of
the ftratum is nearly perpendicular to the horizon, and may
afford matter of fpeculation to the natural philofopher, as to
its caufe, whether from fome melted and liquid matter being
forced up there at the deluge, or fome fubfequent volcano ;
as it is limeftone rock on both the eaft artd weft fide of it,
and apparently fevered afunder by the weight of the weftern
ftratum feparating frpm the above by its inclination to the
vale beneath. We croffed the river by means of the broken
fragments of rocks, which afforded us their rugged backs
above the furface pf the water to tread on. Here we met
with a fine field for our entertainment as botanifts. There
was the lady's flipper, the fly orchis, rarely to be met with
elfewhere, and many other fcarce and curious plants. We
croffed over to take a fecond view of Thornton-Force, on the
fouth fide of the Kingfdale river, and followed its murmuring
ftream down a deep glen, fortified with high precipices on
each fide, to Ingleton. Nor did we think ourfelves ill repaid
for all the difficulties we had to encounter in our road a-
mongft rocks and ftreams, as fomething new and amufing.
prefented itfelf almoft every ftep we took.
Ingleton is a pretty village, pleafantly fituated on a natural
mount, yet at the bottom of a vale, near the conflux of two
rivers, over which are thrown two handfome arxb.es. If the
ftreams.

ADDENDA. 253
ftreams are fometimes fmall, the huge ftones and fragmentg
of rocks which are rolled down the beds of thefe rivers,
will ferve to fhew that at other times they are remarkably
full and impetuous. * The church yard in the middle of
which ftands a neat facred edifice, commands a fine view of
the vale of Lonfdale, almoft as far as Lancafter. The mur«
murs of the ftreams below footh the ear, while the eye is
fekaing a variety of objeAs for its entertainment. On the
back-ground are the lofty mountains of Gragareth, Whern
fide, and Ingleborough, the fummits of which, when they
are not enveloped in the clouds, can fcarcely be feen for their
high intervening bafes. When the top of Ingleborough is
covered with a thick white mift, or, as the country people
fay, when he puts on his night-cap, there are often ftrong
gufts, called helm winds, blowing from thence to that part
of the country which adjoins to its bafe. The like obferva.
tion is made, by the mariners, of the Tableland of the Cape
of Good Hope, on the coaft of Africa. They are called
helm winds from their blowing from the cloud or helmet that
covers the head of the mountains. Amongft other enter
tainments, the civil ufage, and good accommodations we met
with at our inn, contributed not a little to heighten the
amufements and pleafures of the day j.
Early next morning we fet off for Ingleton-Fells, or Chapel
in the dale, along the turnpike road leading to Afkrigg and
Richmond'
* The editor of Barnaby's Journal has this diftich on Ingleton.
Purgus inefi fano, fanum fub acumine aliis j
Qollis ab elatis atltts & auSus aquis.
The poor man's box is in the temple fet ,
Church under hill, and hill by waters beat.
f The writer of this Tour to tbe Cava was informed of a deep and
gurious chafm on the weftern extremity of the bafe of Ingleborough, above
the village of Caldecoates, about a mile or two from Ingleton ; but as he
did not fee it himfelf, he has not attempted a defcription of it from
tradition.'

254 ADDENDA.
Richmond. We had not travelled much above a mile befor;
we came into the dale, which is about three quarters of a
mile broad. For near three miles it had fomething in its
appearance very ftriking to the naturalifl : there were high
precipices of limeftone rock on each fide ; and the interme
diate vale, to a lively imagination, would feem once to have
been of the fame height, but funk down by the breaking of
pillars, vvhich had fupported the roof of an enormous vault.
About three miles from Ingleton, is the head of the river
Weafe, or Greta, on the left hand fide of the road, only a few-
yards diftant from it. It gufhes out of feveral fountains at
once, all within twenty or thirty yards of each other ; having
Tun about two miles underground, though making its appear
ance in two or three places within that diftance. When there
are flood's it runs alfo above ground, though not in all places
except the rains are" extraordinary great. This is the fubter
ranean river mentioned by Dr. Goldfmith in his entertaining
Natural Hiftory, Vol. I. by the name of Greatah.
When we had gone about a mile farther, being four miles
from , Ingleton, we turned off the turnpike road to fome
houfes near the chapel, where we left our horfes. At firft
we imagined we had here met with an exception to the
maxim of poet Butler, the author of Hudibras, viz. '
A Jefuit never took in hand
To plant a church in barren land.
For the chapelry produceth neither wheat, oats, barley, peafe,
or any other fort of grain : nor apples, pears, plumbs, cher
ries, or any kind of fruit ; a ripe goofeberry vvas a natural
curiofity in the fummer feafon, in moft parts of the diftria ;
even their potatoes they have from other places. Yet though
they were deftitute of thefe produaions, they wete bleffed
with others as valuable by way of compenfation. They a-
bound with excellent hay ground and paftures, and were rich
in large flocks, and herds of cattle, which enabled them to
purchafe

ADDENDA. 255
purchafe every conveniency of life. Having little intercourfe
wi:h the luxurious, vicious and defigning part of mankind,
they were temperate, fubftantial, fincere, and hofpitable.
We found an intelligent, agreeable, and entertaining compa.
nion and guide in the curate, who, ferved them alfo as
fchool- mafter : as Dr. Goldfmith obferves on a little occafion
A man he is to all the country dear,
And paffing rich with thirty pounds a year.
The firft curiofity we were conduaed to was Hurtlepot,
about eighty yards above the chapel*. It is a round, deep
hole, between thirty and forty yards diameter, furrounded
with rocks almflft on all fides, between thirty and forty feet
perpendicular above a deep black water, in a fubterranean ca
vity at its bottom. All round the top of this horrid place
are trees, which grow fecure from the axe ; their branches
almoft meet in the centre, and fpread a gloom over a chafm,
dreadful enough of itfelf without being heightened vvith any
additional appendages ; it was indeed one of the moft difmal
profpeas we had yet been prefented with. Almoft every
fenfe was affeaed in fuch an uncommon mannner, as to excite
ideas of a nature truly horribly fublime. When ever we
threw in a pebble, or fpokea word, our ears were affailed with
a difmal hollow found; our noftrils were affeaed with an
uncommon complication of ftrong fmells, from the ramps and
other weeds that grew plentifully about its fides, and the
rank vapours that exhaled from the black abyfs beneath.
The defcent of ./Eneas into the infernal regions came again
frefh into my imagination, and the following paffage out of
Virgil obtiuded itfelf on my memory. Spelunca
* About one hundred yards below the chapel, there is the ruins of an
old cave called Sandpot : the top has apparently fomttime fallen in, and
has covered the bottom with its ruins. A large cafcade is diilinctly heard
through this rubbilh. If a defcent was opened, no doubt but a fub
terranean paffage would be difcovered, leading eilher to the caves above
the chapel, or, more probably to Douk-Cavc, on the bafe of Ingleborough,
if not to both.

256 ADDENDA.
Spelunca alldfuit, vafoque immanis hiatu,
Scrupea, tuta lacu nigra nemorumque tenebris }
§>uamfuper haud ulla poterant impune volantes
ITendere iterpennis : talis fepe halitus atris
Faucibus ejfundens fupera ad convexa ferebat ;
Unde locum Gaaii dixerunt nomine Avernum.
iEneid, B. 6. /. 237.
Deep was the cave, and downwards as it went
From the wide mouth, a rocky, rough defcent ;
And here th' accefs a gloomy grove defends ;
And there th' unnavigable lake extends ;
O'er whofe unhappy waters void of light,
No bird prefumes to fleer his airy flight ;
From hence the Grecian bards their legends make,
And give the name Avernus to the lake. Dryden.
After viewing for fome time with horror and aftonifhment
its dreadful afpea from the top, we were emboldened to de
fcend by a fteep and flippery paffage, to the margin of thii
Avernian lake. What its depth is we could not learn ; but
from the length of time the finking ftones we threw in con
tinued to fend up bubbles from the black abyfs, we concluded
it to be very profound. How far it extended under the huge
pendant rocks we could get no information, a fubterranean
embarkation having never yet been fitted out for difcoveries.
In great floods we we told this pot runs over ; fome traces
of it then remained on the grafs. While we flood at the
bottom, the awful filence was broken every three of four fe-
^onds by drops of water falling into the lake from the rocks
above, in different folemn keys. The fun fhining on the fur
face of the water, illuminated the bottom of the fuperin-
cumbent rocks, only a few feet above ; which, being viewed
by refleaion in the lake, caufed a curious deception, fcarce
any where to be met with ; they appeared at the like diftance
below its furface in form of a rugged bottom. But alas \
now fatal would be the confequence, if any adventurer fhould
attempt

ADDENDA, 257
attempt to wade acrofs the abyfs on this fhadow of a foun
dation. While we were ftanding on the margin of this fub
terranean lake, we were fuddenly aftonifhed with a moft un
common noife on the furface of the water under the pendant
rocks. It is c,alled by the country people Hurtlepot boggards
and fometimes the fairy churn, as a churn it refembles. It
is no doubt frightful to them, and would have been fo to us,
if we had not been apprized of the caufe. We found it was
effeaed by the glutting of the furface of the water againft
the bottom of fome rocks, or paffages worn into them toa
confiderable diftance, when it was defcending after rain, as
then happened to be the cafe. This deep is not without its
inhabitants ; large black trouts are frequently caught in ii by
the neighbouring people. Botanifts find here fome rare and
curious plants.
On our return from the margin of this Avernian lake, we
found the obfervation of the poet Virgil very applicable.
 Facilis. defcenfus Averni :
Nodes atque dies patet atrijanua Ditis ;
Sed revocare gradum, fuperafque evadere ad auras,
Hoc opus, hie labor ef. ^Eneid, B. 9. /. 126*
The gates of hell are open night and day ;
Smooth the defcent, and eafy is the way :
But to return, and view the chearful fkies ;
In this the talk and -mighty labour lies. Dryden.
When we arrived in the fuperior regions, we purfued our
journey about a hundred and fifty yards farther up a very
narrow grotefque glen, over a natural bridge of limeftone,
above ten yards thick, having the fubterranean river Wqafe,
or Greeta, underneath. When we got to the head of this gill,
we were ftopt by a deep chafm called Ginglepot, at the bottom
of a precipice ; it is of an oblong and narrow form ; an en-
terprizing perfon, with a fteady head and aaive heels, re-
^ardlefs of the fatal confequences from a falfe ftep, might
s leap

253 ADDENDA.
leap over it. It is filled with fmooth pebbles at the bottom
except at the fouth corner, where there is deep water, which
'n floods fwells up to the top, and iffnes out in a vaft torrent.
The length of this chafm is about ten yards, and the per
pendicular depth, at the north corner, about twenty yards.
In our way fiom Hurtlepot, we could not help remarking the
ruins of two fmall artificial mounts of earth, which we were
told formerly ferved as buts, when the inhabitants exercifed
themfelves in the ancient military accomplifhment of archery.
The naturalift muft alfo be entertained with the fuccefsful
efforts that had been made by the roots of fome old afhes, to
get acrofs the dry and broad bed of rocks to a rich bed of
fandy foil, in order to fupport their aged parents, for ever
doomed to dwell on the fteep fide of a barren and rugged cliff.
Returning back a little way from Ginglepotin order to find
a paffage out of this dreary glen, we proceeded about an hun
dred and twenty yards higher, when we came to Weathercoat-
Cave, or cove*, the moft furprifing natural curiofity of the
kind in the ifland of Great Britain. It is a ftupendous fub
terranean cataraa in a huge cave, the top of which is on the
fame level with the adjoining lands. On our approach to its
brink, our ears and eyes were equally aftonifhed with the
fublime and terrible. The margin was furrounded with trees
and fhrubs, the foliage of which was of various fhapes and
colours, which had an excellent effea both in guarding and
ornamenting the fteep ajid rugged precipices on every fide.
Where the eye could penetrate through the leaves and
^ranches, there was room for the imagination to conceive this
cavern
* The word cave is pronounced by the country people cove, or caave.
This, hint may be of fervice to a ftranger in his enquiries. This cave is
not above r oo yards from the turnpike road from Lancafter to Richmond :
it is on the left hand fide of the twenty- fecond mile, ftone from Lancafter,
from whence the cafcade may be diitinftly heard. The delicate and timid
may neithir be afraid oC their perfons or clothes, if they have no mind to
defcend. They may ftand fafe on the margin of either Hurtlepot, Ging'e-
pot, or Weathcrcoate cave. They will there fee enough to aftonito them ,
spd imagination wiB fupply the reft.

ADDENDA. 259
p^vern more dreadful and horrible, if poffible, than it was in
reality. This cave is ot a lozenge form, and divided into
two by a rugged and grotefque arch of limeftone rock : the
whole length from fouth to north is about fixty yards, and
the breadth about half its length. At the fouth end is the
entrance down into the little cave ; on the right of which is
a fubterranean paffage under the rocks, and a petrifying well ;
a ftranger cannot but take notice of a natural feat and table,
in a corner of this grotefque room, well fuited for a poet or
philofopher ; here he may be fecluded from the buftle of the
world, though not from noife ; the uniform roaring however
of the cafcade will exclude from the ear every other found,
and his retirement will conceal him from every objea that
might divert the eye. Having defcended with caution from
rock to rock, we paffed under the arch, and came into the
great cave, where we ftood forpe time in filent aftonifhment
to view the amazing cafcade. The perpendicular height of
the north corner of this cave, was found by an exaa admea-
furement to be thirty-fix yards ; near eleven yards from the
top iffues a torrent out of an hole in the rock, about the
dimenfions of a large door in a church, conveying ufitally as
much water as the new river at London. It rufhes forwards
with a curvature which fhews that it has had a fleep defcent
before it appears in open day ; and tumbles precipitate twenty
five yards perpendicular down on the rocks at the bottom,
with a noife that amazes the moft intrepid ear. The water
finks as it falls amongft the rocks and pebbles, running by a
fubterranean paffage about a mile, where it appears again by
the fide of the turnpike road, vifiting in its way the other
caverns of Ginglepot and Hurtlepot. The cave is filled with
the fpray that arifes from the water dafhing againft the bot
tom, and the fun happening to fhine very bright, we had a
fmall vivid rainbow within p. few yards of us, for colour, fize,
and fituation, perhaps no where elfe to be equalled. An
huge rock that had fometime been rolled down by the im-
petuofity of the ftream, and was fufpended between us and
the top of the cafcade, like the coffin of Mahomet, at Medina,
s 2 had

i6o ADDENDA.
had an excellent effea in the fcene. Though the ftream'
had polifhed the furfaces of the pebbles on vvhich it fell at
the'bottom by rolling them againft each other, yet its whole
force vvas not able to drive from its native place the long
black mofs that firmly adhered to the large immoveable rocks."
We were tempted to defcend into a dark chamber at the
very bottom of the cave, covered over vvith a ceiling of rock
above thirty yards thick, and from thence behind the cafcade,
at the expence of having our clothes a little wet and dirtied,,
when the noife became tremendous, and the idea for per
fonal fafety awful and alarming, as the rocks on which we
ftood and every one about us feemed to fhake with the vaft
concuffion. We were informed, that in a great drought the
divergency of the ftream is fo fmall, that we might with
fafety go quite round the cafcade. At the bottom we were
(hewn a crevice where we might defcend to the fubtetranean
channel, which would lead us to Ginglepot, and perhaps much
further ; we were alfo fhewn above, a fhallow paffage between
the ftrata of rocks, along which we might crawl to the ori
fice out of which the cafcade iffued, where it was high enough
to walk erea, ar.d where we might have the honour of ma
king the firft expedition for difcoveries ; no Creature having
yet proceeded in that' paffage out of fight of day-light : but
as we were apprehenfive the pleafure would not be compen
sated by the dangers and difficulties to be encountered in our
progrefs, we did not attempt to explore thefe new regions *.
After
* The writer of this Tour, in company with the owner of the'cave and
IBme others, has fince been in the paffage out of which the cafcade iffues ;
but not able to tell how far it extends, as it was high and wide enough to
admit paiTengers much farther than they were. The owner of the cave
and others have been in the paffage beneath, half way to Ginglepot : they
have no doubt but it leads thither; they did not get fo far, owing to the
water deepening, more than the height leffening. Another fubterranean
river, that from Gatekirk above, meets this cafcade directly underneath it, -
along which there is a paffage, and which the above party in fome meafure
through miftake explored, by miffing their way in their return, by getting
Sic beyond the cafcade before they were convinced of their error, by the -
aoife of the cafcade gradually decreasing.

ADDENDA. 26*
After a little rain another cafcade fimilaf to the former falls
nearly from the fame height, on the weft fide of the cave,
appearing and difappearing, with great variety amongft- the
rocks, as if it fell down the chimney of a ruinous building,
where feveral holes where, made into it in the gable end. if
the rains ftill increafe, a large -ftream fets in out of the room
by the fide of the little cave ; and in great floods a vaft river
jails into the great cave, down the precipice on the eaftern
fide. Nothing can be more grotefque and terrible than to
view this cave when about half full of water. A variety of
cafcades iffue from crannies in every quarter ; fome as fmaH
as a tap in an hogfhead, and others as copious as rivers, all
¦pouring with impetuofity into this deep snd rugged bafon.
With their united ftreams they are fometimes able to fill the
whole capacity of the cavern, and make it overflow ; the
fubterranean crannies and paffages of this leaky veffel not
being able, with the en.reafed preflure from above, to carry
oft the water as fail as it is poured in ; but this happens
.only about fix or feven times in twenty years *.
Having fatisfied our curiofity in viewing this wonder of
oature, and moralized on the infignificancy of all huinati
attempts in producing any thing like it, we afcended into
our native regions, and proceeded to another, called Douk-
Cove, about a mile fouth, on the other fide of ihe turnpike
road, towards the foot of Ingleborough, whofe height now
appeared to great advantage from the nature of our own
elevated fituation. Douk-Coveis fomething fimilar to that
of Weathercoate, but not heightened fo much with the vaft
and terrible : the cavity indeed is longer and wider, but not
deeper; the rocks not fo high and fteep, except on the eaft
fide, where the hawks and other birds build their nefts, not
dreadinn-
* The owner of the cave fays that it run over in the back end of the
year 1757 belore Chriftmas; in 1759, in 1771 two or three times, and all -
;n the back end of the year; and in February 178a and November 1783.
But during this interval, the water has' been feveral times near the top of
the cave. Before it runs over, a large ftream iffues out ot the well before
the Weathercoa.e.hpufe,

2(52 ADDENDA
dteading the approach of human foot. They both feefn
once to have been covered over, like Yordas, but the roofs to
have fallen in by fome inundation, or other accident. The
ftream of this cafcade does- not fall above five or fix yards,
and is not fo large as the former ; though, like it, is im.
mediately abforbed amongft the rocks beneath. The fub
terranean paffage out of which it iffued is very curious. By
the help of a ladder we afcended, and went along it to fome
diftance, by medns of candles : when we had gone about forty
or fifty yards, we came to a chafm twelve or fifteen yards in
depth from the furface, through which we could fee broad
day. How far we could have proceeded, we know not ; we
returned after we had been about an hundred yards. This
would be looked on as a great curiofity in many countries ;
but after thofe we had feen, our wonder was not eafi,ly ex
cited. Nq doubt but another fubterranean paffage might,
be difcovered, by ridding away the rubbifh at the bottom of
the cave, where the water iinkf.
We were now on the bafe on which Ingleborough *
ftands, and greatly elevated above all the weflern country.
Our diftance from the bottom-, where the fteep afcent of
this high mountain begins, was about a mile in a direa
horizontal line, over rocks and pits. The finenefs and
clearnefs however of the day induced us to afcend its fides
-and gain its fummit ; though we had many a weary and
flippery ftep, we thought ourfelves amply repaid when we
got to the top, with the amufement we received in viewing
the feveral extenfive and divetfified profpeas, and in making
our obfervations, as botanifts and natural hiftorians, on its
produaions and contents. All the country betwixt us and
the fea, to the extent of forty, fifty, and fixty miles from the
* The word Ingleborough, feems to be derived from the Saxon word
ingle, which fignifies a lighted fire', and borough, or burgh, vvhich comes
originally from the Greek word purgos, and fignifies a -watch tower ; the
labials p and b being often changed irito each other ; for here a beacon is
erected, on which a fire ufed to be made as a fignaLpf ajarm in times Q
rebellions or invasions.

ADDENDA. 263
he-north weft, by the weft to the fouth-weft, lay ftretched
put beneath us, like a large map, with the roads, rivers, vil
lages, towns, feats, hills and vales, capes and bays, in fuc
ceffion Elevation is a great leveller ; all the hills and little
mountains in the country before us, appeared funk in our
eyes, and in the fame plain with the adjacent meadows. To
the north-weft, the profpea was terminated at the diftance
of forty or fifty miles, by a chain of rugged mountains in
Weftmorland, Laiicaihire, and Cumberland, which appeared
as barriers againft the fury of the ocean. To the weft, the
Irifh fea extends as far as the eye can penetrate, except
where the uniformity of the watery profpea is interrupted
by the Ifles of Man and Anglefey. The blue mountains in
Wales terminated our further progrefs, after we had traced
out the winding of the coaft all the way from Lancafter, by
Prefton, and Liverpool. A curious deceptio vifus prefented
itfelf; all the vales between us and the fea appeared lower
than its furface, owing to the fky and earth both apparently
tending to aline drawn from the eye parallel to the horizon,
where they at laft appeared to meet. To the eaft and north,
the profpea was foon terminated by a number of black, ir
regular, chaotic mountains, which by their indentations and
winding fummits, gave us reafon to believe they contained
habitable vales between them. Their fides afford an bardv
and wholefome pafture for fheep, and thtir bowels contain
rich mines of lead, fome of which are wrought with great
advantage to the proprietors.
The immenfe bafe on which Ingleborough ftands is between
twenty and thirty miles in circumference : the rife is in fome
places even and gradual ; in others, as to the north and weft,
it is rugged and almoft perpendicular. ,The top isN plain and
horizontal, being almoft a mile round, having the ruins of
an old wall about it, from which fome ingenious antiquaries
endeavour to prove that it has once been a Roman ftation,
and place of great defence. Of late years it has never been
frequented by any, except fhepherds, and" the curious in
profpeas,'-

264 ADDENDA.
profpeas, and the neighbouring country 'people, who re,
forted to the horfe races, vvhich were formerly annually held
on its top. On the weftern edge there are the remains of
what the country people call the beacon, fome three or four
yards high, afccnded by a flight of fteps The ruins of a
little watch-houfe is alfo adjoining : no doubt in time of
wars, infuneaions, and tumults, and particularly during the
incurfions of the Scots, a fire was made on this beacon, to give
the alarm to the country round about. The foil on the top
is fo dry and barren that it affords little grafs, the rock
being barely covered with earth : a fpongy mofs is all the
vegetable that thrives in this lofty region. The ftones on
the fummit, and for a great way down, are of the fandy
gritty iort, with f eeftone flate amongft them : upon the
bafe, the rocks are all limeftone, to an enormous depth.
Near the top indeed, on the eaft fide, is a ftratum of lime
ftone, like the Derbyfhire marble, full of entrochi. Several
fprings have their origin near the fummit, particularly one
on the north fide, of pure and well-tafted water, called Fair-
Weather Syke, which runs down by the fide of a fheep-fence
wall into a chafm called Meir-Gill.- All the other fprings,
as well as this, when they come to the limeftone bafe, are
fwallowed up, and alter running perhaps a mile underground,
make their appearance once again in the furrounding vales,
and then wind in various courfes to the Lune or the Ribble,
which empty themfelves into the Irifh fea.
A naturalift cannot but obferve a number of conical holes,
with their vertexes downwards, not only all over the bafe of
Ingleborough, but paiticularly a row near the fummit. They
are from two to four or five yards diameter, and from two
to three or four yards deep, except Barefoot- Wives-Hole,
hereafter mentioned, which is much larger. They refemble
thofe pits about Mount iEtna, Vefuvius, and the various
parts of Sicily and Calabria, as defcribed by Hamilton, and
other writers. What may have been the caufe of them, is
left for the determination of the ingenious naturalift. The

ADDENDA. 265
i he other ftones and foffils on and about Ingleborough, are
clack and brown marbles, abounding with white fea fhells,
fparks of fpar, and flakes of entrochi : fpars of various forts,
the ftalaaical and icicle in the caves, flates pale and brown,
and near Ingleton blue ; black fhiver, triptsli or rotten ftone,
blood-ftone and lead ore. The foil on the bafe and fides of
Ingleborough (where there is any) is chiefly peatmofs which
the country people get up and burn for fuel : the cover is
m general ling or heath : other vegetables are ferns of va
rious kinds ; reindeer mofs, and various other moffes ; hele-
borines, white and red ; the different forts of feedums ; crane's
bills, fcurvy grafs, bird's eyes, various liver-worts, orchiffes,
rofe-wort, lily'of the valley, mountain columbines ; the hur
tle-berry or bill-berry, knout-berry, cran-berry, cloud-berry,
and cow-berry. The fhrubs are mountain-vine, bird-cherry,
mountain-afh, gelder-rofe, burnet-rofe, ftone-bramble, red
and black currants. In the Foal-Foot which is in the north-
weft corner of this mountain, is found the vivaperous-grafs,
and the rofe-of-the-root, which has a yellow flower,, and is
like houfe-leek. Near Ingleton, as was before obferved, is*
the lady's flipper, and fly orchis. The chief animals found
On and about Ingleborough, are groofe, the ring-oufle, and
wheat-ear : the fox, mountain-cat, wild-cat, pole-cat, weafle,
float, badger, and martin.
The perpendicular height of this mountain above the level
of the fea is 3987 feet, as taken by a neighbouring country
gentleman. The country people are all perfuaded that
Whernfide on the north fide of the vale of Chapel in the Dale
is higher than Ingleborough, from fnow continuing longer
on its top and other circumftances. The elevation appears
fo nearly the fame to the eye, that nothing but an exaa
admeafurement can determine this honour for thefe rival,
foaring candidates. The top of Ingleborough is the firft land
however that failors defcry in their voyage from Dublin to
Lapcafter, though above thirty miles from the fea, which
fhews the great height of this mountain ; though not an
argument

366 ADDENDA.
argument for its being higher than Whernfide,, which, is no1
fo well fituated to be feen frpm the Irifh fea.
In out return we vifited the long, deep, and dreadful
chafm of Meir-Gill, on the weft.fide of the fheep-fence wall,
running, north and fouth over the bafe of Ingleborough ; it is
about eighty yards long, but in moft places fo nariow thae
a perfon may ftride over it, and is no where above two or
three yards wide ; in one place there is a curious natural
bridge over it. The depth is very different, in different
places ; at one place we found it a hundred feet, forty-eight
of which vvas in the water. One part will admit a bold and
aaive adventurer down almoft to the water by a gradual,
but flippery defcent : here the fhadow of the fuperincumbent
rocks like that in Hnrtlepot, forms a deceitful appearance
in the vyater : the bottom feems not above two feet below
the furface; but how fatal would be the attempt to wade
this abyfs in queft of further difcoveries, from this fhadow
of encouragement ! The narrownefs of this crevice at the
top has fomet,hing dreadful and alarming in it ; how fatal
would one falfe ftep prove to the unwary fliepherd amongft
the fnow, when the mouth is drifted, up ; or to a ftranger
bewildered in the fog, and looking forwards with eager eyes
for fome habitation, or frequented path ? Harmlefs and
heedlefs fheep have often been fuddenly fwallowed up by this
gaping wonder of nature. To fay that no living creature'
ever came out of if s mouth, would be a propofition too ge.
neral. Trouts of a protuberant fize have bgen drawn out of
it, where they had been long nourifhed in fafety, their habi
tation being feldom difturbed by the infiduous fifherman.
A little further to the eaft we came to another curiofity
of nature, called Barefoot- Wives -Hole : we had noticed it in
our afcent up the fide of Ingleborough. It is a large round
pit in form of a funnel, the diameter at top being about fifty
or fixty yards, and its depth twenty-fix. It is eafily de
fcended in moft places, though on the fouth fide there is an
high

ADDENDA. 267
high rocky precipice, but is dry, the waters that are emptied
into it being fwallowed up among the rocks and loofe ftonea
at the bottom.. In our way back we alfo faw Hardrawkin,
and fome other fubterranean paffages of lefs note, which had
been fonned by the waters in their defcent from the mountain
adjoining to Ingleborough, to the vale beneath. Indeed the
whole limeftone bafe of this monfter of nature is petforated
and excavated in all direaions, like a honeycomb

#

From the Chapel in the Dale we fhaped our courfe towards
the fouth-eaft corner of Whernfide, along the road leading to
the village of Dent. As we proceeded, the curate entertained
us vvith an account of fome fingular properties obfervable in
the black earth, which compofes the foil in the higher parts
of the vale, in various moraffy .places. It is a kind of igneum
lutum, or rather a fort of putnfied earth, which in the night
refembles fire, when it is agitated by being trod upon : the
effeas it produces in a dark evening are truly curious and
amazing. Strangers are always furprifed, and often fright
ened to fee their own and horfes legs befprinkled to all ap
pearance with fire, and fparks of it flying in every direaion,
as if ftruck out of the ground from under their feet. They
are as much alarmed with it, as the country people are with
the will with the •uiifp, or mariners with the luminous vapour
of the delapfed Caftor and Pollux- Though the dark and
dreary moor is broke into thoufands of luminous particles,
like fo many glow worms, when troubled by the benighted
traveller, yet if any part of this natural phofporus is brought
before a lighted candle, its fplendour immediately vanifhes,
and it fhrinks back into its original dull and dark ftate of
fordid
* Limeftone has all the appearance of having been once in a foft ftate,
and eafily foluble in water; this principle will account for the fcallops on
the furface of limeftone rocks, being made perhaps by the water draining
off, while the ftone was foft ; alfo for the chinks and crevices amongft them,
made by their fhrinking together, when dried by the fun. The caves
themfelves proceed from a great part of the rock, moft probably being dif-
fclved and warned down by the ftreams pervading the different ftraM.

268 ADDENDA.
fordid dirt. While we were endeavouring to account for
this curious phasnomenon on the principles of putrefaaion
and elearicity, we arrived at the firft objea of this lateral
.excurfion from the turnpike road, Gate- Kirk- Cave *.„ The
brook which runs through it forms a fine natural bafon of
tranfparent water at its egrefs, where we entered the cave,
gradually encreafing in depth till about five or fix feet at
moft. I believe every one prefent thought it refembled the
cave defcribed by Ovid in the fecond of his Metamorphofis,
where Aaason unfortunately met with Diana and her nymphs
amufing themfelves with bathing, when feparated from his
companions during the chace.
Vallis erat piceis & acuta denfa cupreffu,
Nomine Gargaphix ; fuccinSe cura Dian/e ;
Cujus in extreme ef antrum nemorale receffu,
Arte laboratum nulla : fmulaverat artem
Ingenio naturafuo ; nam pumice vivo,
Et levibus tophis nativum duxerat arcum.
Fons fonat a dextrd, tenui psllucidus inula,
Margine gramitieo patulos fuccinHus hiatus.
Hie Deaflvarum venatu fejfa folebdt
Virgeneos arlus liquldo perfundere rare. Ov. B. 3. Fab. 2.
Down in a vale, with pine and cyprefs clad,
Refrefh'd with gentle winds, and brown with fhade.
The chafte Diana's private haunt there ftood,
Full in the centre of a darkfome wood,
A fpacious grotto, all around o'er grown
With hoary mofs, and arch'd with pumice ftone.
From out its rocky clefts the waters flow,
And trickling fwell into a lake below : Nature
* A furlong or two before we arrived at Gate -Kirk, we paffed a little
cafcade among fome hollow limeftone rocks, which would be a fine em.
beUilhrnent to a gentleman's garden or park. All the ground about feemed,
hollow, and we faw various chafms and empty fpaces between the ftrata of
rocks, though none worth a particular defcription iu a country abounding^
with fuch a variety of a fuperior nature.

ADDENDA. 269
Nature had every where fo play'd her part
That every where fhe feem'd to vie with art ;
Here the bright goddefs, toil'd and chaf'd with heat,
Was wont to bathe her in the cool retreat. Addifon.
Over the cave where the water flows, is another fubterra
nean paffage, of about twenty-four feet in length, and from
three to ten in height : it enters the other obliquely, and
looks like a natural oicheftra, and where indeed a band of
mufic would exhibit to great advantage to an audience below.
The roof of the cave, at the entrance by the ftream, is about
two yards high, but foon encreafes to fix. When we had
proceeded out of fight of day, a new train of ideas were ex
cited in our imaginations. We could not but fancy that it
vvas like the cave of Polypheme, or of fome giant in modern
romance, who hung up the mangled limbs of the unhappy
viaims that fell into his hands, to the dome of his murky den.
From the roof were pendant large petrifaaions in every gro
tefque fhape ; fome like hams, others like neat's tongnes,
many like the heads and vaiious parts of different animals
Some parts of this cave appeared like dreary vaults or cata
combs, where were depoiited the reliques of ancient heroes
or martyrs Some rocks at the bottom appeared like huge
ftone coffins, and fome large petrifaaions on the ihelves like
virgins or children reprefented in alabafter. As we proceeded
along we met with feveral bye- ftreets or lanes, down fome of
which came tinkling little currents, but they feemed not to
admit a paffenger with eafe to any great diftance : as we went
along we obferved that the way divided for a confiderable
part of the whole length into two main ftreets, which united
again, made by the current dividing above into two ftreams.
After we had gone near an hundred yards, we met with an
orifice, which eafily admitted us above ground : we had no
curiofity to explore any farther, as the roof was now become
only fome four feet high, and not admitting us with eafe
beyond this aperture. The brook which runs through thie
c'ave'is the main ftream of the river Greeta, which runs under
grounds'

270 ADDENDA.
ground for at leaft two miles, making its appearance here, at
Weathercoate, and a few other places in its way down to iti
open channel. The pools that are formed by the brook after"
its exit out of the cave, exhibit a pleafing and rural fcene,
being fhaded with rocks, weeping willows, and mountain afh.
Having travelled a mile or two further, and paffed through
the little remote village of Winterfcales, we came to the
natural curiofity we were in queft of, Greenfide-Cave ; it is
under the fouth-eaft corner of the lofty mountain Whernfide :
the mouth was wide and high, and the road rugged ; but
the roof gradually funk, or the bottom arofe, till it vvas
troublefome getting along, foon after we were out of fight
of day. A fmall brook ran along the bottom, as in the
other cavea, but there were none of the curious petrifaaions
we faw in moft of them to delight the eye. Churchill's
defcription of the Caledonian cave of famine, with a few
alterations, will convey a juft idea of Greenfide-Cave.
This lonely cave (hard tax on Scottifh pride !)
Shelter at once for man and beaft fupply'd :
There fnares without entangling briers fpread,
And thiftles arm'd againft th' invaders head ;
Here webs were fpread of more than common fize,
And half ftarv'd fpiders prey'd on half ftarv'd flies ;
In queft of food, efts ftrove in'vain to crawl,
Slugs, pinch'd with hunger, fmear'd the flimy wall —
The cave around with falling rivulets rung,
And on the roof unhealthy vapours hung.
Near the mouth of this cave is a thin ftratum of coal, not
many inches thick ; fome attempts have been made to work
it, but affording fo fmall gains, and the inhabitants being fo
well fupplied with this article from Ingleton, it was foon
deferted. Being fo near the top ofWherrrfide, we ventured
to afcend to the fummit. Theprofpeas were not diverfified
with many pleafing objeas, being furrounded almoft on all
fides

ADDENDA. 271
fides with brown and blue chaotic mountains. We had a
peep into the pleafant vale of Dent beneath us, which made
vis wifh to fee it all. Pendle-Hill appeared over the top of
.ingleborough, which gave us an high idea of our own eleva
tion, this latter mountain being much higher than the former.
We were furprifed to fee four or five tarns or pools of water
on a plain very near the fummit of Whernfide. Two of them
were large, being two or three hundred yards in length, and
nearly of the fame breadth ; for one was almoft circular, but
the other oblong. There was a very thin bed of coal almoft
on the top of this mountain, and we were told, another cor-
refponded with it on the top of the great Colm,;a lofty moun
tain on the other fide of that branch of the vale of Dent
called Dibdale. We were told fome curious anecdotes of the
vaft cunning and fagacity of the fheep-dogs in this country,
in difcovering the fheep that had been buried under large
drifts of fnow for fome days, and that muft inevitably have
perifhed vvith hunger, or been drowned with the melting of
that vapour, if not difcovered by thefe ufeful animals.
We new fhaped our courfe back to Winterfcales, and from
thence to a public-houfe called Gearftones, by the fide of the
turnpike road, at the bottom of the mountain Cam. Here
we refrefhed ourfelves, and left our horfes, while we went
abotit half a mile to the fouth, to explore another fubterra
nean wonder of nature called Catknot-Hole. The entrance
into it at firft is not above three or four feet high, but almoft
immediately encreafes to as many yards. We had not gone
out of fight of day, before we were obliged to wade up to
the mid-leg, a few yards, through a little pool made by the
rill that comes out of this cave. The paflage grew nar
rower, but wide enough to walk along with eafe, except in
one or two places, where we were in danger of daubing our
clothes with a red flime. We proceeded above a quarter of
a mile, when the road grew wider, but the roof was fo low
that we could not go on with cafe and pleafute ; perhaps if
we had muftered humility and fortitude enough to have
crouched

172 ADDENDA.
crouched and crawled a little, we might have qome to where
the roof again would have been as high as we, fhould have
defired. In fome places there were alleys out of the main
ftreet, but not extending to any great diftance, fo as to ad
mit of paffengers. The rocks jutted out, and were pendant
in every grotefque and fantaftic fhape ; moft of them were
covered over vvith a fine, coating of fpar, that looked like
alabafter, while icicles of various fhapes and colours were
pendant from the roof; all generated by the fine particles of
ftone that exift in the water, which tranfudes through the
roof and fides, and leaves them adhering to the rock in
their defcent to the bottom. The various coloured reflec
tions, made by the fpars and petrifaaions that abaunded in
every part, entertained the eye with the greateft novelty and
variety ; while at the fame time, the different notes made
by the rill in its little cafcades, and reverberated from the
hollow rocks, amufed the ear with a new fort of rude and
fubterranean mufic, but well enough fuited to our flow and
gloomy march. This was the longeft fubterranean excurfion
we had yet made, and if we might have formed our own
computation of its extent, from the time we were in going
and coming, and not from the real admeafurement of our
guide, we fhould have thought it two or three times as long
as it was ; fo much were we deceived in our eftimate of a
road, unlike any we had ever before travelled. The roman
tic cafcades, pools, and precipices in the channel of the rivei'
Ribble, that runs by the mouth of this cave, are not unwor
thy the notice of a ftranger.
We were in fome fufpence whether we fhould purfue the
turnpike road over Cam, to fee the natural curiofities in
Wenfleydale : but as we learnt there vvas only one remark
able objea of the genus of thofe we were now in queft of,
Hardraw-Scar, we defifted ;. as we fhould have loft others
more valuable, which lay in a different route. The defcrip
tion, however, which was given of it by our reverend guide,
was fo lively and piaurefque, that its own merit' will be a
fufficient apology for its infettion. " Hardraw-fcar

ADDENDA. 273
., " Hardraw-Scar is near the town of Hawes, in Wenfley-
dale, and bears fome diftant affinity to the tremendous Gor-
dal (hereafter taken notice of.) The chafm is pervious at the
bottom, and extends above three hundred yards in length,
fortified with huge fcattered rocks on each fide, which are
in fome places thirty-three yards perpendicular, and the
intervallum above eighty. At the far end is an amazing ca-
taraa, which pours forth a vaft quantity of water, that falls
into a deep bafon. Behind the water fall is a deep recefs
excavated out of the folid rock ; here the fpeaator may
ftand behind the ftream fecure from its madefying effeas,
and may go quite round it upon one of the numerous faxa
fedilia, at the diftance of ten yards from the water. In the
year 1740, when fairs were held on the Thames, this cafcade
was frozen, and conftituted a prodigious icicle of a conic
form, thirty-two yards and three quarters in circumference,
which was alfo its height."
After having determined to go by Settle, we had our doubt
whether we ihould proceed by Ling-Gill, which is a curious
and romantic channel of a fmall river, having high and gro
tefque rocks on each fide ; or take a more weftern direaion
on the other fide of the river Ribble, in order to fee fome
other caves and chafms. Our tafte for curiofities of this fort
induced us to adopt the latter plan. We returned about a
mile before we left the turnpike road, and then turning off
to the left, proceeding almoft to the fame diftance, we came
to Alan or Alumn-Pot, two or three furlongs above the little
village of Selfide. It is a round fteep hole in the limeftone
rock,, about eight or ten yards in diameter, and of a tre
mendous depth, fomewhat refembling Elden-Hole, in Derby.
fhire. We ftood for fome time on its margin, which is
fringed round with fhrubs, in filent aftoniihment, not think
ing it fafe to venture near enough to its brim, to try if we
could fee to its bottom. The profundity feemed vaft and
terrible, from the continued hollow gingling noife excited
by the ftones we tumbled into it. We plummed it to the
t depth

$H ADDENDA,
depth of a hundred and fixty. five feet, forty-three of which
wet e in water, and this is an extraordinary dry feafon; as
the direaion of this hole was not exaaiy perpendicular but
fomewhat floping, it is very probable we were not quite at
the bottom. A fubterranean rivulet defcends into this ter
rible hiatus, which carifcd fuch a dreadful gloom from the
fpray it raifed up as to make us fhrink back with horror,
when we could get a peep into the vaft abyfs. We were
informed that not long fince fome animals, an ox, and a
calf at different times, had the misfortune to tumble into
this dreary pit, being tempted by the untafted herbage to
venture top far on its flippery margin. Only a low mound
of earth furrounds its brim; for a ftone wall would anfwer
no other purpofe, than to afford the curious traveller mate
rials to throw in for his amufement. Any advantage ari
fing from the fkins and carcafes of thefe animals, were not
fufficient inducement to tempt a neighbouring adventurous
youth to be let down by ropes to the bottom of this frightful
chafm.. The waters run from its bottom above a mile un
derground, and then appear again in the open air, below
the little village of Selfide. After having excited the feveral
paffions of curiofity, dread, and horror, from the negative
knowledge we got of the capacity and depth of this huge
pot, we went a little higher up the mountain, and came to
another hiatus called Long-Churn. We defcended down till,
we came to a fubterranean brook ; we firft afcended the ca
vern, down which the ftream ran, proceeding in a weftern
direaion, for at leaft, as we imagined, a quarter of a mile,
till we came to a crevice which admitted us into our native
i-egion. We meafured the diftance between the two extre
mities above ground, and found it two hundred and forty
one yards, but it muft be nearly double that diftance along
the paffage below, on account of all the turnings and wind
ings. The petrifaaions here were the moft numerous of
any we had yet feen, few people coming either to break
them off or deface them. When we were almoft arrived at
the weftern extremity, we came to a fine round bafon of
pellucid

ADDENDA. 2j$
fvellucid water from three to twelve feet deep, known by
the name of Dr. Bannifter'shand bafon. A lofty, fpaciou.s
and elegant dome is placed immediately over it, which nicely
correfponds to the hollow receptacle at the bottom : into
this bafon a rivulet falls down a fteep rock above fix feet
high, which is very dangerous to get up, and muft be done
at the expence of a wet flcin, except a ladder is taken along
with the party, or the waters are lefs copious than when
we were there : there is alfo fome danger left the adven
turer fhould fall back, and have his bortes broken by cir
cumjacent rocks, or be drowned in the doaor's bafon. Af
ter having furmounted this obftacle, and proceeded fome
yards farther, we were favoured wijth an egrefs into our own
element, as was before obferved ; no unwelcome change, af
ter haying being fo long excluded from it. After having
refted ourfelves a little, we returned to the chafm, where we
firft entered Long-Churn, and defcending again putfucd the
rivulet eaft- ward, along another extenfive fubterranean paf
fage, called Dicken-Pot, which flopes and winds by degrees
till it enters the ghaftly and tremendous Alan-Pot. We went
a hundred and fifty-feven yards along this antre vaft till we
came to a fteep rock full twelve feet perpendicular : here
we ftopped ; a wife confideration ! We might have defcended
perhaps without danger, but thequeftion vvas how we were
to get up again ; which, without ropes or a ladder, would
be totally impraaicable : at the far end was an elegant lofty
dome called by the countiy people St. Paul's. There is no
doubt but if we had ventured further we might have come
to Alan-Pot, at leaft fo near, as either to have feen the water
that ftagnates at its bottom, or the light, that is admitted
into this gaping rnonfter of nature.
There are feveral other caves all along from hence on the
fouth fide of Ingleborough, above the village of Clapham, to
Ingleton : but we poftponed the pleafure of exploring theftf
hidden receffes of nature till another fummer. Wc defcended
£tom hence along the banks of the river Ribble four or fivt
T 2

976 ADDENDA.
miles farther to the village of Horton, fituated at the bottom.
of the lofty and elegant mountain Penegant. As we went
along we paffed a large heap of fmall round ftones, called an
hurder ; we were told there were two other by the fide of
the turnpike road, in a field called the Slights, one about a
mile, and the other a mile and a half eaft of the Chapel in
the Dale. They feem evidently placed there by human hands,
and what was moft extraordinary, they were all fmall, round,
fandy, and gritty ftones, and all the ftones on the furface of
the ground near them are limeftone. No doubt they were
tumuli of fome deceafed chieftains in the neighbourhood, or
who died on their travels.
Before we left Horton we vifited fome natural curiofities
of the cavern kind on the bafe of Penegant *. Dowgill-Scar,
a little above Horton, is a grotefque amphitheatie of limeftone
rocks, compofing an high precipice, which muft appear aw
ful and grand in a flood, when a large torrent of water falls
from the top, full in view : a fmall fubterranean paffage was
able to take all the water when we were there. A romantic
gallery, on the north fide of the rocks, had a good effea in
the fcene. About a mile or two above Horton, upon the
bafe of Penegant, we vifited Hulpit and Huntpit holes : the
one, if we could have defcended into it, would have appeared
like the infide of an enormous old Gothic caftle, the high
ruinous walls of which were left ftanding, after the roof was
fallen in. The other vvas like a deep funnel, and it was
dangerous to come near its edges. Horton-beck or brook,
runs through the one, and Branfil-beck through the other of
thefe pits, but through which I cannot remember ; they each
run underground near a-mile ; Horton-beck appearing again
at Dowgill-Scar, and Branfil-beck at a place called Branfil- 'Head
* The wcrd Pen is of Phsenician extraction, and figDifies head or emi
nence. It was firft introduced into Cornwall, where the Phamicians had a
colony, who wrought the tin mines. Hence we have many names in
Ccrnwall which begin with Pen. Moft mountains in Wales begin wit'1
Ten. In Scotland, the labial letter P is changed into B, and Pen into Bey
as Benlomond^ Benevifh, &c.

ADDENDA. 477
head. But what is moft extraordinary, thefe fubterraheati
brooks crofs each other underground without mixing waters,
the bed of one being on a ftratum above the other ; this was
difcovered by the muddy water after a fheep wafhing going
down the one paffage, and the feeds or hufks of bats that
were fent down the other. About a couple of miles from
Horton, on the right hand fide of the road to Settle, is a cu
rious ftone quarry, at a place called Culms or Courtis. The
ftones are of a blue kind, like flate, from one to three inches
thick: fome are two or three yards broad, and five or fix
yards long ; they are made ufe of for floors in houfes, being
fometimes laid over cellars on joifts ; they are alfo ufed for
gate-pofts, foot-bridges, and partitions between the flalh in
(tables and cow-houfes.
At Stainforth, which is about three miles from HortOttj
and two from Settle, we were entertained with two cafcades,
one in the Ribble, near the road, about fix or eight yards
high, and another a little above the village, perhaps twenty-
or thirty yards perpendicular.
About a quarter of a mile before we arrived at Settle, we
turned to the right, along the road towards Kirkby-Lbnfdalc,"
about a mile, under the high and romantic rocks called
Gigglefwick-Scar, in order to fee the well by the way fide,
that ebbs and flows. We were in luck, feeing it reciprocate
feveral times while we were there, and not ftaying above an
hour. We could not however learn, with any degree of cer
tainty, by what intervals of time, and to what heights and
depths the reciprocation was carried on, We were informed
that if the weather was either very droughty or very wet,
the phenomenon ceafed. I have feen fome philofophical
attempts to folve this extraordinary curiofity, on the prin
ciple of the fyphop, but in vain ; as on that hypothefis, if
the fyphon is filled by the fpring, it will flow on uniformly
for ever. We were told by drunken Barnaby, an hundred
and fifty years -ago, that it puzzled the wits of his age. Vent

278 ADDENDA,
Veni Gigglefwick, parum frugis
Profert tellus, claufa jugis .' i
Ibi vena prope vie
Fluit, refluit, nolle, die; >
Neque norunt unde vena,
An cifale vel arena. j
Thence to Gigglefwick, moft fteril,
Hem'd with fhelves and rocks of peril ;
Near to the way, as a traveller goes,
A fine frefh fpring both ebbs and flows ;
Neither know the learn'd that travel,
What procures it, fait or gravel.
As we approached towards Settle, in our return, a whiter
Tock, like a tower, called Caftleber, immediately above the
town, and about twenty or thirty yards in perpendicular
height, engaged our attention. This precipice is partly na
tural and partly a work of art ; it is made deeper and more
dangerous every day, in confequence of ftones being got from
its bottom and fides, to fupply an adjoining lime-kiln.
Settle is irregularly built, has a large and fpacious market
place, but not many good houfes in it : though by no means
an inconfiderable town either for trade, riches, or number of
inhabitants : it has no church or chapel. The church is at
Gigglefwick, about a mile off, which appeared to be the court.
end of the parifh, confifting chiefly of gentlemen's houfes.
From Settle we proceeded eaftward over the moors and
mountains about half a dozen miles, to Malham, or Maum,.
in order to fee fome other natural curiofities of the precipice
and cataraa kind. We had already indeed feen fo many,
that our wonder could not eafily be excited, except there
were more great and terrible : as fuch we had them repre-
fented at Settle, or elfe we fhould fcarce have left the turn
pike road ; ad when we faw them we were not difappointed, for

ADDENDA^ 275
for great and teiri'jle they are. The firft was Malham-Cave,
(or vulgarly Maum-Cove) though it has properly nothing of
the cave about it. It is a fine amphitheatre of perpendicular
limeftone rock, on the fide of the moor, at leaft a hundred
yards high in the middle. The rocks lie ftratum upon ftra
tum, and on fome there are faxa fedilia, br fhelves, fo that a
perfon of great fpirit and agility, but of frriall and (lender
body, might almoft walk round, A fmall brook fprings
out at the bottom of the rocks ; but in floods the narrow
fubterranean paffage is not able to give vent to all the water;
when there pours down a ftupendous cataraa, in height
almoft double that of ISfiagara. This' is the higheft perpen
dicular precipice I have ever feen, and I think not enough
known and admired by travellers for its greatnefs and re
gularity. Aftet purfuing our journey near a mile, by the
fide of the deep and romantic channel of the river Air, which
wafhes the bafe of many a rugged and high precipice in its
impetuous courfe to the vale beneath, we came to Gordale,
the higheft and moft ftupendous of them all. The profpea
of it from the fide of the oppofite weftern bank is awful,
great, and grand. After viewing for fome time its horrid
front with wonder and aftonifhment, we were tempted to
defcend with care and circumfpeaion down the fteep bank
on the weft fide to this river, which being interfperfed with
trees and fhrubs, enabled us to rely on our hands, where we
could find no fure foot hold. The water being low we met
with iio difficulty in ftepping from one broken fragment of
the ropks to another, till we got on the other fide, when we
found ourfelves underneath this huge impending biock of
folid limeftone, near a hundred yards high. The idea for
perfonal fafety excited fome awful fenfations, accompanied
with a tremor. The mind is not always able to diveft itfelf
of prejudices, and unpleafing affociations of ideas: reafon
told us that this rock could not be moved out of its place
by human force, blind chance, or the eftablifhed laws of
nature. We ftood too far under its margin to be affeaed
by any crumbling defcending fragment, and a very fmalj orfe

3c?a ADDENDA.
one would have crufhed us to atoms, if it had fallen txpoft
Us : yet in fpite of reafon and judgement, the fame un-
pleafing fenfations of terror ran coldly through out veins*
which We ihould have felt, if we had looked down, though
fecure, from its lofty top. Nothing however fell upon us
but a {ew large drops, which fweat from out its horrid pro
minent front. Some goats frifked about, with feemingly a
wanton careleffnefs, on the brink of this dreadful precipice,
where none of us would have ftood for all the p'eafant vales
wafhed by the river Air. Some lines in Virgil's Eclogues
feemed to receive additional beauties when repeated in this
grotefque fcene.
Non ego vospqfthac, viridi prbjeSus in antra;
Dumofa pendere procul de rupe videbo. Virgil Eel. I. /. 76^
No more, extended in the grot below,
Shall I e'er fee my goats high up the brow
Eating the prickly fhrubs, or void of care
Lean down the precipice, and hang in air.
A little higher up is a fine cafcade, where the river ftriving
for an eafier and gentler defcent, has forced a way through
the rocks, leaving a rude natural arch remaining above. If
a painter wanted to have embellifhed his drawing of this
romantic fcene with fome grotefque objea, he could have
added nothing which would have fuited his purpofe better,
if nature had not done the work for him.
* From Gordale we proceeded to a curious lake, called
Maum or Malham-Tarn, abounding with fine trout, upon the
top of the moor ; and from thence by Kilfey-Crag to Grafr
fington, on the banks of the river Wharf. Coming uncx-
pededly
* If Kilfey.Crag fhould not be thought an object worrb. going fix of
feven miles to fee, the beft way from Gordale to Skipton, will be by
Kirkby, Malhamdale, and Gargrave,

ADDENDA, * 2o»|
peftedly to the crags of Kilfey, I was a' good deal amazed
at the profpea. They are by the fide of the vale, along
which defcends the river Wharf: like thofe at Gigglefwick,
they extend in a line to fome diftance, but are higher and
more prominent. The road we came along winding down
amoiigft thefe crags, fo that we were prefented with a full
view cf them on a fudden, which caufed the greater furprife.
After having refrefhed ourfelves at Graffington, we travelled
about nine miles farther and came to Siripton. The country
all round us is uneven and rugged ; the vales are fertile on'
the furface, and the' mountains beneath it abound with rich
mines of lead. After we had vifited the caftle (which be
longs to the Earl of Thanet) and the curious canal behind it,
above the mills, vvhich leads to the limeftone qua rry, bythe'
fide of a romantic deep glen, we left Skipton. Before our
departure we were for fome time in doubt, whether we fhould
afcend the fteep and black hill of Rombaldfmoor, and fo pro--
ceed down the vale of Wharldale, one of the pleafanteft in
England to Otley, and fo to Leeds, — or go- by Keighly,
Bingly, and Bradford, along the fide of the new canal, and
view the locks and other contrivances on this new and ufeful
work of art. Moft of us having been the former road, arid
this with its objeas being quite nevvi we were induced to pro
ceed along it. At Kildwick, about four miles frdm Skipton,
we paffed under this aquaedua, where it was banked up a great
height above the adjoining lands, at a vaft labour and ex-
pence ; there iave been fome' violent ftruggles between the
elements of earth and water : the mounds have riot always
been able to keep the water within its proper limits, they
having oftener than once, been broken through by the rJref-
fure on their fides. About a mile further, at Steeton, we
could not but obferve the fteep afcent and defcent of the toad
over a hill, when a level path might have been' made almoft
equally near along the fide of the river. The irtconveniencieS
that muft attend carriage in carts and waggons, from fuch
ill-concerted roads, perhaps might fuggeft the expediency of
a eanal. "The ufe and praaicability of fuch an undertaking in

282 ADDENDA*
;n a mountainous country, one would imagine might giv'S
the inhabitants a hint to make their roads wind with eafy
afcents and defcents along the fides of the vale. Frorri
Skipton to Otley, the road is carried up and down the cor
ner of the fteep mountain Rombaldfmoor, when as near a
one might have been conduaed along the vale beneath-
The inhabitants might have carried to the market the pro"
duce of their lands, and brought coals and manure at a
little expence, if this plan had been adopted : but the pre
judices againft improvements and innovations are not eafily
removed. At Bingley we were entertained with the locks ;
there are five or fix of therh together, where the barges afcend
or defcend eighty or ninety feet perpendicular, in the dif
tance of about a hundred yards. They are elegant, and
iwell finifhed, but feem too deep not to leak and be frequentl*'
put of repair.
About four miles before we arrived at Leeds, in our way
from Bradford, we were fuddenly prefented with the grand
and venerable ruins of Kirkftal-Abbey, full in view from the
road : we ftood fome minutes looking with filent refpea and
reverence on the havpek which had been made by time on
this facred edifice. How much foever we might condemn
the miftaken notions of monkifh piety, that induced the de--
votees to lethargic fupinenefs, and to forfake all the focial
duties of life in order to be good men ; yet we fecretly re
vered that holy zeal which infpirited them to exert every
fower in ereaing ftruaures, the magnitude and beauty of
which might excite ideas worthy of the deity to whom they
were dedicated ; and alfo reprobated that fanatic bigotry
which fuffered them to decay and go to ruin, becaufe they
vete once inhabited by a fet of chriftians whofe manner of
worfhip was not orthodox. While we were moralifing thus
on religious prejudices, the infl ability of the work of men's
hands, and the fading glories of this world, we came to
Leeds, A*

ADDENDA. 283
As the largenefs and extent of this thriving manufaeV
taring town, with all its elegant buildings in and about it,
are well known to you, and as you have alfo feen every
thing worth notice in and near the road from thence, I fhall
hear take my leave of you, and no longer tire you with a
relation of the adventures and curiofities I met with iu my
fummer's journey.
ADDRESS
TO THE GENIUS OF THE CAVES.

 Hail, kindred gloomfl
Ccngenial horrors, hail 1 Thompson.

-Thou fpirit dread,

That hover'ft o'er this rocky region erffi,
With burning fulphur, and volcanic ftreams
Of fire extina, all hail 1 — thou whofe loud fhriek
Midft fcowling tempefts, oft the liftening fwain
Haft heard aghaft ; oft in flow pacing clouds,
That drag their fweeping trains o'er Gragareth's fteep.
Has traced thy wild fantaftic form. Thy fteps
Through many a rugged, uncouth path, well pleaf'd
I follow, whether from the dread abyfs
Of fome unfathom'd cavern *, Echo's groans,
With many a dreary paufe between, from rock
To rock rebound, and break upon my ear
Like diftant thunder: or my raptur'd gaze,
E'en from the yew-frfrig'd margin, down the fteep,
Purities f the foaming cataraa's headlong courfe,
Till fpent and dazzl'd on thofe wat'ry hues
Midway it refts, where light refraaed paints
Each cluftering dew-drop's glaffy orb, and vies Wjitb
» Gingling-Cave, on Gragareth,
f Weathercoate-Cave, in Cbapel-in-the-Dak-

284 ADDENDA
With melting Iris' vernal tinaur'd How,-
Or whether by the taper's glim'rrrig ray
Led on, my fteps pervade thy fecret fhrine,
Yorda's, where hid from Phsebus' gar'rifh eye,
With contemplation, thy compeer, thOu fitt'ftj
And like a curtain fpread'ft thy cloud of night
Around thy throne. I feel, I feci thee near !
Full many a young idea that ere this
Hath flept in filence, at thy thrilling call
Starts from its trance, and, kindling into life,
With joy and mingled awe attemper'd, f wells
, My crowded foul, and ever and anon,
As at the wizard's call, my ftraining eye,
Quick glancing fees a thoufand fleeting fhapes
Scatter'd from bright ey'd fancy's dewy plume.
Parent of horrors, hail ! to my fix'd eye
Thy facred form, in thefei thefe folemn fcenes
Reveal'd, defcends : and O 1 more awful far
This great defign, grav'd by fair nature's hand,
Thefe frowning rocks, and mih'ral roofs reflea
Thy femblance* than could Raphael's warmth devife^
Than Phidias featur'd marble : and thy voice,
Borne on tbe panting wing of eaich low blaft
That fighs along the vault, awakes the foul
To feelings more ennobled than the lyre
Of Orpheus, or the rapture-breathing drains
Of Handel e'er infpir'd. O 1 may I oft
In this Egerian cave, great power, attend
Thy facred prefence : here with nature's felf
Hold converfe; 'till by juft degrees my mind
Through fcience' footfteps pierce ihe harmonious maze
Of facred order, and to brighter views
From day to day afpiring, trace at length,
Through all the wonders of this nether world,
Th' Eternal, caufe : to him on rapture's wing
Dart her fwift flight, and fcale the walls of heaven.
ARTICLE

ADDENDA, a8£
ARTICLE VIII.
FURTHER ACCOUNT
OF
FURNESS FELLS;

OBSERVATIONS ON PLACING OBJECTS ON THE EMINENCES,
AND PLANTING TREES IN THE VALLIES SEEN IN THIS.
TOUR ; BEING THE NOTE INTENDED FOR PAGE 43,
Furness Fells, and the adjacent parts here alluded
to, are fo peculiaily diftinguifhed with piaurefque, beauty,
that they deferve a more minute .defcription. This coun
try confifts of a fucceflion of mountains and vallies,
formed and intermixed in all the poffible variety of rural
nature. Much of the vallies, and the bafes of moft of the
hills, are covered with young wood, which at certain periods
is cut down and charred for the ufe of the neighbouring
furnaces. On this account, the copfes, which confift of
various kinds of ttees, conftantly, in the fummer, exhibit
every pleafing colour of youthfiil vegetation. The main
fhoots, alfo, fpring up fo ftraight, and the collateral ones at
fuch fmall angles with them, that they give an uncommon
idea of vegetating vigour ; and when they are feen rpoted
in the clefts of rocks, fancy will conceive them not unlike
the ftreams of fome fluid burfting forcibly from its prifon.
Among thefe copfes are found feveral neat villages, houfes,
apd fpaces of cultivated land, which with a number of
brooks and rivers, tumbling and tinkling among them, con
ftitute a fcene of fylvan beauty exceedingly lively and fin
gular. But what ftill enhances the whole, is the goodnefs
of the highways, of which, in fine weather, it is not ex^
travagant

fcSfj ADDENDA.
travagant to fay, in general, that they are more like the
walks of a gentleman's pleafure ground, than roads for
ordinary occupation. This circumftance, though in part
owing to the peculiar goodnefs of the materials, is, never
thelefs, much indebted to the neatnefs and public fpirit of
the inhabitants.
A laudable tafte for adornirfg nature has led us from or
namented gardens to ornamented farms, and, being in the pof
feffion of good roads (an effential article for the difpiay of
rural beauty) there feems to be but one thing wanting to
make this a truly ornamented country. What I mean here
is, artificial objeBs raifed on proper parts of the mountains and
eminences, which at every turn are prefented to us through
fome agreeable opening or other,
> Eminences are as naturally fit places for objeas intended
%o attraa the diftant eye, as they are for enabling the eye
to furvey diftant objeas. Hence to decorate them with co
lumns, obelifks, temples, &c. has the fanaion of natural fitnefs.
And if to this confideration we add that of the inherent
beauty of the objeas, themfelves, and remember, that there
is nothing fets off the beauties of nature fo much as elegant
works of art, — juflifying motives for thtfe ereaions can
never be wanting to any one who has a tafte for rural
beauty, and is willing to accomplifh as much of it as is in
his power. But this is not all. The praaice is certainly
patriotic. For fuch elegant ornaments will at leaft natu
rally contribute to diffufe a ferenity and chearfulnefs of
mind into every beholder : and thence (if we may be par
doned the figure) like ekarical conduaors, they may be
fuppofed to bring down a little of the happy placidity of
better regions, to add to the natural quantity fhooting about
on the earth. As another motive it may be obferved, that
it is pleafing in any country to fee the inhabitants fo much
at eafe in mind and circumftances as to pay attention to
Ibefe fanciful undertakings, and moreover, that as a man of

ADDENDA. 287
of fenfe appears the more fo for feeming confcious of the
importance of what he fays, fo every traveller will conceive
the better of a people, who, fenfible of the natural advan
tages pf their country, are found difpofed to make the beft
of them.
How thefe objeas fhould be formed or fituated muft for
the moft part be determined by circumftances under the eye
of tafte. One thing however feems worthy of particular
noiice in this place, which is, that ereaions of this fort
would have the moft grand and charaaeriftic effea placed
on eminences, fo as to have the fky for a back-ground.
When this is the cafe, the hills they are raifed upon fhould
be Dounded by agreeable lines, feen at a great diftance and.
much in fight of the principle roads *.
The moft fimple of thefe ereaions are obeliflcs, and pro*
pcrly formed fummer houfes j- . But a feries of columna
conftituting a temple, or fupporting arches, pediments &c«
would have by much the beft effea, provided they were
properly large, for the ordinary points of view. Through
the openings of thefe columns, the fky would always give
them
* If they be not intended alfo for a near inipecttion, they need not be pf
^ny expensive materials. Provided they be well formed in outline (and for
the defign of which artifls of tafte ihould always be applied to), common
ftone and mortar will do very well.
f This kind of fummer- houfe fhould either be octagonal, or at leaft
have more than four fides. And if either of thefe forts of erections be not
placed on very pointed hiUs, care ihould be taken to raife them (either by
raiting the earth on which they ftand, or by giving them a high rultic bafe,
tec), fo that the fides of the hills will not prevent a complete light of their
elevation from the principal points of view. — Nothing can be worfe ma
naged than to fee thefe objects as if rifing beyond the top of the hill, or
from the bottom of a fiih-pond.
Perhaps a fumtrrer-houfe ftanding on proper ruftic arches (through,
which the fky might be feen) would, for the following reafon, in fome
cafes hay.e a good effect.

2#8 ADDENDA.
them a ftriking appearance ; but in an evening, if the fun
fet behind them, no fpeaacle of the kind eould be imagined
more grand and attraaive, or more accordant with the fub
limity of the furrounding mountains.-r— Perforated doors and
windows, in the imitation of old Gothic ruins, it is true,
would yield part of this effea, but their gloomy and irre
gular appearance renders them in the cafe before us gene*
rally improper.
Something of this kind (on the bolder eminences parti
cularly) feems to be all the effential article that is wanting
to perfea the rural beauties of this country ; except, indeed,
it may be thought, that a little more attention paid to the
removal- and planting of trees, would be of ufe for that end ;
and concerning which I beg leave to lengthen this article
with a few obfervations.
Trees are certainly the ornament and pride of vegetable
nature. A bird defpoiled of its plumage fcarce feems more
mutilated and ungainly than countries and inclofures de-
flitute of trees. They have a good effea planted even (in
their worft fituation) any how in hedge rows ; but if they
be lightly fcattered vvith tafte in proper parts of the inclofure
itfelf, they become infinitely more pleafing. Henca, though
nature has done wonders in the difpofition of trees iij fome
of her favourite haunts, yet ftill (if not in them) fhe may be
improved upon in others, by the affiftance of art. And let
not the lips of fordidnefs objea to the purport of this hint,
that if put in praaice it would afk fome care and expence,
and probably prevent the growth of what is more profitable
to the owner, and ferviceable to man : for the God of nature
is far from having fully proportioned the animals of the earth
to its produce. And as he renders -fruitlefs innumerable
feeds of almoft every vegetable and animal creature, fo the
application of a part of our care, and a portion of the earth
to its own ornament, is, I am perfuaded, fo far from being
culpable or improper, that (in humble imitation of the di-

ADDENDA. 289
vine love of beauty and liberality) it feems as much to be
required from the pious votary of nature as his admiration
of what comes immediately from its own efforts. In both
cafes God is alike honoured ; and honour tp God is certainly
too nearly conneaed vvith religion to make it in any cafe an
aa of indifference. Do then, ye affluent and profperous
land -holders, pay fome attention to this particular. Study
the fubjea through the medium of books and piaures, and
fometimes fpare, and fometimes plant a tree for ornament's
fake. And, if you think them reafonable anes, obferve alio
the few following remarks, humbly offered to your confide
ration. — They fhall be made as brief as poffible.
The greateft nicety and perfeaion in the art of planting
trees lies in the ufe of exoticksj and an ingenious mixture of
foliage, in order to decorate, for near infpeSion, the marginal
views of a lawn, walk, &c. But if ever a fondnefs for agri
culture, built upon a love of fimple nature and fober piety,
(of which there are too, ioo few indications in our prefent
manneis) fhall turn the general tafte of the kingdom towards
ornamented farms, fuch an event cannot be fuppofed to be
fuddenly brought about. Hence the precepts that relate to
this elegant part of gardening, will in this place be wholly
unneceffary, and our attention muft be confined to the ma
nagement of the larger trees, which are already found iri
thefe regions.
Scotch firs, though a favourite tree with many people,
feem to require a good deal of judgment in their ufe ; for
they may be fo planted as to injure a landfcape more perhaps
than they are generally feen to adorn it. In hanging woods
(with which this country abounds) they frequently appear
to difadvantage however difpofed. A fingle tree in this cafe
often looks like a blot, and a plantation like a daub ; ef
pecially in winter, when the moft is expeaed from their
verdure. The reafon of this feems to be the darknefs of
t.heir colour, and the obvioufnefs of their whole form and
v out-line ;

290 ADDENDA.
out-line: from the firft particular they always atttaa the
eye more than any thing elfe, and, from the fecond, huit
the imagination with prefenting to it only a parcel of frnalt
limited ftreaks or patches, awkardly inclined to the horizon.
When flightly and irregularly interfperfed in woods of this
kind, they may now and then pleafe from variety. • But in
general, they come fo forward to the eye, and, at a good
diftance, in winter, fo much refemble yew, holly, and the like
gloomy and barren looking trees, that they do a real injury
to the foft and pi. .'fing tints, which refult from the native
ftems, and which, from ufe, beft accords vvith the idea of
thriving woodlands.
For thefe reafons Scotch fits look beft when they are feen
in large horizontal plantations, on low (or at leaft not hicrh)
ground ; when the front is only expofed to fight (hence
their depth backward imagined- very great), and when the
blue vapours of an extended horizon are feen over their tops.
In this cafe they have a very grand effea, and form a fine
dark contrail to the pale and diftina features of the over
looking hills.
Thofe circular groups of trees called clumps, are oftener
feen than worthy of praife. They appear to have the beft
effea (if they muft be ufed) for near views, or when they
are found in the middle of a level open vale of fine lawn or
meadow. But on the ft des of diftant hills or mountains
(where they are feen all round) their appearance is truly
paltry. The more fmooth and large thefe eminences are,
the more improper this fpecies of ornament becomes ; and in
fhort, I apprehend, the features of a lady's face would fcarce
be more injured by the mark of her thimble, than the fea
tures of feveral hills would be by thefe unnatural circles — ¦
At the fame time however that we cenfuie this mode of de
corating mountains, it may be proper to obferve, that if they
be wholly covered with wood, or lightly interfperfed with
fingle trees, &c, the effea vvfll be natural and pleafing. But

ADDENDA. 29J
But the moft abfurd decoration of thefe eminences in
vogue is a few trees placed on their top, fo that the whole
boles of the foremoft, ranks may be feen down to. their very
roots. Trees we know are chiefly the produce of the lower
parts of the earth's furface, and to fee the roots of fome
above the heads of othe rs, as it were, tier above tier, is not
natural, and therefore not beautiful. — Houfes which are the
work of art feldom look well in this form. In fhort, what
ever be the circumftances of the bafe of a fine mountain as to
wood, its top fhould either be wholly naked, or ornamented
with one of thofe artificial ereaions fpoken of above.
Thefe obfervations will alfo hold good with refpea to
little abrupt prominences, or fwells, in ornamented grounds :
vvhich (if .they muft be tampered with) would receive more
improvement from being encircled- with an affortment of
fhrubs, over whofe tops the crown of the hills (either plain
or terminated with fome agreeable ereaion of ftone) might
be fairly feen, than from a few large trees, planted, as we
often find, on their fummits. For where thefe fwells are
pretty ftequent (as they moftly are in uneven countries) art
is better applied in lowering them, as it were to the eye, than
in giving them real additional height.
As to avenues of tall trees, they have certainly a noble
effea for a private walk, or the firft part of an approach to
a gentleman's feat. But, feen from diftant eminences, they
often betray a good deal of the formality of a common fence.
To clofe the fubjea vvith a maxim or two more. Keep
all large trees at a good diftance from every neat-looking
ioufe*. Always confider extenfive unevenly-bounded fo-
v 2 refts
* Refpecting houfes, I would juft cbferve, by the bye, tha tto any perfon,
fave a native inured to them, buildings cf blue-rag without mortar have
a very mean and depreffing look, and that if it fall conveniemly withm
reach, the common rough-caft of limeftone countries has the moft neat
and chearful appearance of any outfide finiih, of an eafy expence, and pf
eafy management.

392 ADDENDA.
reffs to have an infinitely better effea in a landfcape, than
an equal quantity of trees difperfed over it in crowded for-
mally-inclofed patches. And, above all things, never forget
the fuperlative beauty which (for a near view) may be giverr
to a park, farm, or cultivated country, by fingle trees,
lightly and irregularly placed out of the hedge-rows.
The bounds of this article will not admit of more than
a few leading remarks on this fubjea ; but I fancy if the
above hints were obferved they would be fufficient, under
the -influence of tafte, for the intended purpofe. And
though they are thrown out more particularly with a view
to one part of the country included in this tour, yet it is
all fo much alike, in feveral refpeas, that they might be at
tended to with the fame advantage in every other. And were
thefe ideas verified, I flatter myfelf this northern diftria
would be worthy of being termed the Britifh Arcadia, and
exhibit nearly to the utmoft pitch of the poet's fancy,
" An ample theatre of fylvan grace. "
Mafon' s Englifh garden.
This to the more wealthy of its inhabitants. To the^
more humble I will juft fubjoin a finifhing word.
That you are placed in one of the moft beautiful diftrias
in the kingdom, the number of its vifitors of all ranks con-
ftantly teflify ; and you will fee it is one purpofe" of this
book to make it ftill more known. ' And if you be not the
happieft people, the fault muft be in yourfelves ; fince nature
has bountifully beftowed upon you every effential requifite
of enjoyment. Be therefore content to purfue your in
nocent, though humble vocations, without letting a wifh
wander beyond your peaceful vales ; and now and then turn
your thoughts towards thofe particulars which annually
bring among you fo many wealthy and refpeaable vifitors,
Keep your highways in good order (for, as obferved before, their'

ADDENDA. 293
their beauty is effential to rural beauty*.) Preferve your
native modefty, and never let envy mar your civility. When
you prune a fence joining to a public road, put the branches
where they can be no annoyance f, and then, as you are
already exemplary in many moral virtues, you will fet a
pattern of rural decency worthy of the imitation of feveral
politer parts of the kingdom.
* The gieat advantage that any town receives in appearance,vmercly
from the letters on the various Jigns, ice. being elegantly done, is very evi
dent. And were the fnger-pcfls on the roads executed with proper tafte,
they might be made as ornamental as they are ufeful ; and hence yield due
credit to the public fpirit of the townfliips to which they belong, inftead
of being thought (as they often are at prefent) lamentable indications of
their ignorance and poverty,
f It may alfo be here proper to remind the hufbandmen and farmers of
another floveruy practice they are frequently guilty of in moft countries ;
I mean the cuftom of throwing ftones, -weeds, and other kinds of rubbifh,
from their fields, upon the face of the roads, with no more regard to the
feemiinefs of its appearance than to the moral honefty of the deed. If they
cannot comprehend that they have no more right to make ufe of the roads
for this purpofe than a neighbour's field, and that, though generally con
nived at, the practice is wrong, the furveyors would do very well to teach
them this decent piece of knowledge by the proper feverities of the law.

ARTICLE

294 ADDENDA.

ARTICLE IX.
ACCOUNT OF
ENNERDALE.

In a ride from Kefwick to Ennerdale, the mountains,
between whofe bafe an irregular avenue opens for the cu
rious tourift, are more variegated than thofe in other re
gions of this little world of wonders. In the courfe of ten
minutes travelling, he will behold the moft beautiful verdure
climbing to the fummit of one, a bufhy wood creeping to
the top of another, and the moft tremendous fragments of
rpck fcowling from the front of a third. The Pillar chal
lenges particular notice.
If a tranfient fiorm difturb, or intercept the view, vvhich
frequently happens in. the fereneft days of fummer, the ap
pearance is not only awful but pleafing ; and the traveller
will frequently behold a tempeft, without feeling it. The
commotion is far above him ; and, where he treads, all is
calm, folemn, and filent. As he approaches the vale of
Ennerdale, in whofe bofom one of the moft enchanting of
the lakes is feated, he will find the rugged fcenery of the
country gradually refining, and as he winds round the foot
of the Pillar, he will difeover a villa which cannot fail to
ftrike the moft indifferent obferver with aftonifhment and
pleafure. The mountains, which ferve to heighten this fcene and
enhance its furprife, are Stye-Head, Honifter-Crag, Waftdale,
the Pillar, arid Red-Pike. The Liza waters the bafe of the
latter,

ADDENDA. 295
fatter, and on its margin lies an even, level road, not formed
by the hand of man, but prefenting to the eye the appear
ance of a pavement. The delighted tourift will infenfibly
confine his view (though it is not in reality bounded by any
of the lofty objeas already mentioned) to the verdant ifland
of Gillerthwaite, whofe romantic fituation muft be feen ; de-
icription cannot furnifh an idea of its beauty.
An effayift, in the provincial paper of this country,
fpeaking of this place, fays, " It forms a piaure fuch as the
canvas never prefented ; it embraces a variety fo diftributed
as no pencil can ever imitate. No defigrier in romance
ever allotted fuch a refidence to his Fairy inhabitants. I
had almoft faid no reclufe ever wooed religion in fuch a
bleffed retirement. "  " The genius of Ovid would have
transformed the moft favoured of his heroes into a river,
and poured his waters into the channel of the Lixa, there
to wander by the verdant bounds of Gillerthwaite ; the fweet
reward of patriotifm and virtue.
Gillerthwaite is not, however, an ifland, though almoft
as much contrafted in the landfcape as land vvith water.
It is a patch of enclofed, and apparently highly -cultivated
ground, on a ftony defert of immeafureable extent ; for the
mountains on each fide of it are the moft barren in their
afpea, and continue that appearance till their heads mix
with the horizon. There are two decent farm -houfes on
the enclolure, and, from the Terpentine tract of the valley,
no other habitation of man is vifible.
From Gillerthwaite, the road already briefly defcribed
(and which a very little induftry might make convenient for
moft occafions) leads towards the pride of the valley, once
the feat of power and fplendour, of which fome faint remains
are yet to be traced. The place here alluded to is How-
Hall, a manfion formerly of fome note. The eftate, by
pdrchafe, came into poffeffion of the Senhoufes, and is now the

296 ADDENDA.
the property of Jofeph Tiffin Senhoufe, Efq. of Calder-
Abbey. The following infcription, in Saxon charafters, is
yet vifible over the principal doqr of How-Hall.
" This houfe was built, A. D. 1 566, by William Patriclfon
and Frances his wife, daughter bf Sir Thomas Swynburn, one
bf the privy counfellors to King^Henry VIII. "

Within thefe few years, feveral vifitors of the lakes extend
their tour, by taking in Whitehaven, and proceeding from
thence, by Cleator, and Kinnyfide, to Ennerdale-Bridge: at
which place guides can be procuredto condua them by the beft
route to Ennerdale Broadrwater; and, if they chufe, from
thence to Lowes-water, Buttermire, &c. — This part of the
journey (without which the tour is incomplete) cannot how
ever, be performed in a carriage : but a ride on horfeback
will amply recompence the trouble ; for the fcenery is de
lightful, and the objeas have been pronounced (as well by
many gentlemen of tafte, as by artifts of much celebrity)
highly interefting. Many fuch have ventured to prefer thefe
views even to fome of thofe which have attraaed fo much at
tention from the patfons of the fine arts.
Certain it is, the approach to the lake of Ennerdale, to
Lowes- water, and to Buttermire, is from no other quarter fo
magnificent and captivating. The lake of Ennerdaleappearsin
view. To the left, a majeftic wood, rifing gradually up the fide
of Cold-Fell, from the oppofite fhore of the Water, imparts the
iriott graceful ornament to the entrance into a region perfeaiy
different from the laft. A fhort turn to theright laysthewhole
lake and valley open to the view, and Herd-Houfe pre
fents liis tawny front, as Regent of the fcene. The
furniture of the lake (if the expreffion may be allowed)
is totally changed. On the traveller's fide (the eaft)- the
farms are ftretched out, and exhibit a verdure feldom ex
ceeded in the moft fertile parts of this kingdom ; and in a
compafs

ADDENDA. 297
iompafs of a few miles, the number of fmall tenements, feem
to fay with Goldfmith,
" Here every rood maintains its man. "
On the oppofite fhore of this little ocean which is fre^
quently feen vexed with little ftorms of fhort duration) the
mountain towers with great dignity : neither terrible nor-
inviting in its afpea ; but fuited to the ferenity of the fpot,
which is calculated to infpire fentiments at once fublime and
chearful. The language of poetry never applied " The clear mirror
of the food" with greater propriety than a defcription of'
this lake might adopt it on many occafions ; the extent of
the water is particularly calculated, with the height of the
adjoining mountain, to produce the moft aftonifhing re
fleaion from its furface : and the fituation of the neigh
bouring mountains occafion fuch frequent changes of the
atmofphere, in the courfe of a fummer's day (and at no
other feafon, it is prefumed, thefe parts are vifited by ftran-
gers) that the tourift will hardly be difappointed in viewing
the piaure in all its great variety of light and fhade.
The following lines are an impromptu, written by a gentle
man in the year 1788, who has fince diftinguifhed himfelf ,
by his ingenuity, and at prefent enjoys no inconfiderable
rank as an artift; we might be juftified in faying, he now
poffeffes a very honourable niche in the modern temple of
pictorial fame, — in Somerfet-Houf&i
Here let the youth, who pants for honeft fame,
By real genius led, whofe claffic tafte
Delights to copy nature, — here employ
His pencil, — and, by boldeft ftretch of art,
Snatch all the tranfient colours of the lake,
That wildly, on its furface, mingling, play. And

298 ADDENDA.
And let the rapture that with fpeed purines
The flying fpeaacle of light and fhade
(And, inftant, ftrikes the canvas vvith their tint)
Direa the eye, — and guide the rapid hand, —
Quick ! as the chafing clouds and glancing light
Refka their image on the glaffy plain !
Now leave the varying beauties of the fcene,
And dalh the fcowling mountains brows fublime ;¦
Sweep down their rugged fides, auguft and fteep',
With many a furrow mark'd, and fhelving ridge,
And paint the pebbled margin of the-flood.
But feize, ah ! feize, on Pillar's lofty top
That paffing mift which half obfcures its peak ! —
Its evanefcent form no art depia? ; —
No fancy wing'd fo quick, to give it fhape ! —
It flies, alas ! and, mix'd with common air,
Brightens, and fades, — infenfibly — away !
Defcribe the dread ferenity that dwells
In all this region of romantic view, —
Of awful filence, — filence undifturb'd,
Save when, as gently mov'd by Zephyr's bland,
The hedge-row mingles with its fweets a figh ;
Or the wing'd inmates of the wat'ry vale
Carol, refponfive, to the general fong
Of rifing nature. — From her lap fhe throws^
The richeft offerings of the growing year ;
And ev'ry tow'ringhill, and daify'd bank,
Breathes choiceft incenfe to th' Almighty Pow'r,
Beneficent,  whofe works are only good.
Pictor.

ARTICLE

ADDENDA. 299
ARTICLE X.
SPECIMENS OF
THE CUMBERLAND DIALECT.
Thefe are taken from the poems of the ingenious and modeft
Relph ; an author of fome eftimarion in thofe parts, and
whofe paftorals in particular are admired by all judges,
for their exaa delineation (after the beft claffic models)
of the language and manners of his ruftie countrymen.
HARVEST:
OR,
THE BASHFUL SHEPHERD.
A PASTORAL,
IN THE CUMBERLAND DIALECT.
When welcome rain the weary reapers drove
Beneath the fhelter of a neighbouring grove,
Robin, a love-fick fwain, lagg'd far behind.
Nor feem'd the weight of falling fhow'rs to mind ;
A diftant, folitary fhade he fought,
And thu3 difclos'd the troubles of his thought.
Ay, ay, thur drops may cuil my out-fide heat,
Thur callar blafts may wear the boilen fweat :
But my het bluid, my heart aw' in a bruil,
Nor callar blafts can wear, nor drops can cuil. Here,
GLOSSARY.
Thur, thefe. cuil, cool, caller, cold, wear, cool or allay, boilen, boiling,
het, hot. bluid, blood, aw', all, bruil, broil.

3<&o ADDENDA.
Here, here it was (a wae light on the pleace)
'At firft I gat a gliff o' Betty's feace :
Blyth on this trod the fmurker tripp'd, and theer
At the deail-head unluckily we fhear ;
Heedlefs I glim'd, nor could my een command,
'Till gafh the fickle went into my hand :
Down hell'd the bluid ; the fhearers aw' braft out ;
In fweels of laughter ; Betty luik'd about ;
Reed grew my fingers, reeder far my feace :
What cou'd I de in feck a difpett keafe ?
Away I fleeng'd to grandy meade my mean,
My grandy (God be wud her, now fhe's geane)
Skilfu' the gufhen bluid wi' cockwebs ftaid ;
Then on the fair an healen plaifter laid ;
The healen plaifter eas'd the painful fair,
The arr indeed remains but neathing mair.
Not fae the other wound, that inward fmart,
My grandy cou'd not cure a bleedin heart ;
I've bworn the bitter torment three lang year,
, And aw my life-time mun be fworc'd to bear,
'Lefs Betty will a kind phyfician pruive :
For nin but fhe has (kill to medcin luive.
But how fhou'd honeft Betty give relief?
Betty's a parfet ftranger to my grief:

Oft

GLOSSARY.
Wae, woe. pleace, place, 'at, that, gliff, a tranfient view, feace, face.
trod, foot-path, fmurk; r, fmiler; theer, there, deail-head, a narrow plat
of ground in a common field, fhear, reaped, glim'd, looked afkance. een,
eyes, gafh, to cut. hell'd, poured, 'aw, all. braft, burft,. fweels, fwells or
burfts. luik'd, looked, reed, red. reeder, redder, feace, face, de, do. feck,
fuch. keafe, cafe, fleeng'd, went creepingly away, grandy, grandmother.
meade, made, mean, moan, wud, with, geane, gone, gufhen, gufhing.
bluid, blood, cockwebs, cobwebs, fair, fore, healen, healing, arr, fear,
or mark, neathing, nothing, mair, more, fae, fo. bworn, born, lang,
long, mun, muft. fworc'd, fore'd, pruive, prove, nin, none, luive, love,
parfet, perfect.

ADDENDA. 36e
Oft Ive refolv'd my ailment to explain ;
Oft I've refolv'd indeed, — -but all in vain ;
A fpringin blufh fpread faft owr aither cheek,
Down Robin luik'd, and duice- a word cou'd fpeak.
Can I forget that neet (I never can)
When on the clean fwept hearth the fpinnels ran ;
The laffes drew their line wi' bufy fpeed ;
The lads as bufy, minded every thread.
When fad ! the line fae flender Betty drew-,
Snap went the thread, and down the fpinnel flew : ,
To me it meade— the lads began to glop—
What cou'd I de ? I mud, mud tak it up ;
I tuik it up, and (what gangs pleaguy hard)
E'en reach'd it back without the fweet reward.
O laftinftain, even yet it's eith to treace,
A guilty confcience in my blufhen feace ;
I fain wad wefh it out, but never can :
Still fair it bides, like bluid of facklefs man.
Nought fae was Wully bafhfu' — Wully fpy'd
A par of fciffars at the lafs's fide ;
Thar lows'd, he fleely drop'd the fpinnel down—
And what faid Betty ? — -Betty ftruive to frown ;
Up flew her hand to foufe the cowren lad,
But ah ! I thought it fell not down owr fad i
What follow'd I think mickle to repeat,
My teeth aw' watter'd then, and watteryet. E'en
GLOSSARY.
Springin, fpringing. owr, over, aither, either, luik'd, look'd. neet, night.
fpinnels, fpindles. wi', with, fae, fo. meade, made, glop,' ftare. de, do,
mud, muft. tak, take, tuik, took, gangs, goes, pleaguy, plaguy, laftin,
lafting. eith, eafy. treace, trace, blufhen, blufhing. feace, face, wad,
wou'd. wefh, wafh. bides, abides, bluid, blood, facklefs, innocent, fae, fo.
Wully, Willy, par, pair, thar, them, lows'd, loos'd. fleely, flyly. fpinnels
fpindle. ftruive, ftrove. cowren, crouching, owr, over, mickle, much,
aw', all. watter'd, water'd.

302 ADDENDA,
E'en weel is he 'at ever. he was bworn 1
He's free frae aw' this bittermcnt and fcworn.
What mun I ftill be fafh'd wi' ftraglen-fheep,
Wi' far fetch'd fighs, and things I faid a-fleep ;
Still fhamfully left fnafflen by my fell,
And ftill, ftill dogg'd wi' the damn'd neame o' mell J
Whare's now the pith (this luive! the duice ga' wi't)
The pith I fhew'd whene'er we ftruive to beat-;
When a lang lwonin through the cworn I meade,
And buftlin far behind the leave furvey'd.
Dear heart ! that pith is geane, and comes nae mair,
'Till Betty's kindnefs fall the lofs repair ; -
And fhe's net like (how fud fhe ?) to be kind,
'Till I have freely fpoken out my mind,
'Till I have learnt to feace the maiden clean,
Oil'd my flow tongue, and edg'd my fheepifh een.
Abuik there is — a buik — the neame — fham faw't ;
Something o' compliments, I think they caw't
'At meakes a clownifh lad a clever fpark,
O hed I this ! this buik wad de my wark ;
And I's refolv'd to hav't, whatever't coft :
My flute — for what's my flute if Betty's loft ?
But if fae bonny a lafs but be my bride,
I need not any comfort lait'befide. Farewell
GLOSSARY.
Weel, well, 'at, that, bworn, born, frae, from, fcworn, fcorn. mun,
muft. fafh'd, tioubled. wi', with, ftragglen, ftraggling. fhamfully, fhame
fully, fnafflen, fauniering. fell, felf. neame, name, o' mell, of the hindmoft,
[mell, a beetle.] whare's, where's. luive, love, ga' wi't, go with it. ftruive,
ftrove. lang, long, lwonin, lane, cworn, corn, meade, made, buftlin.
buttling, leave or lave, all the reft, geane, gone, nae mair, no more, fall
fhall. fud, fhou'd. feace, face, een, eyes, buik, book, theer, there, neame
name, fham faw't, fhame befal it. caw't, call it. 'at meakes, that makes.
hed, had. wad, wou'd. wark, work. I's, I'm. hav't, have it. whatever't,
whatever it. fae, fo. lait, feek.

ADDENDA. 303
Farewell my flute then, yet, or Carlifle fair ;
"When to the ftationer's I'll ftright repair,
And bauldly for thur compliments cnquear ;
Care 1 a fardin, let the 'prentice jeer.
That dune, a handfome letter I'll indite,
handfome as ever country lad did write ;
A letter "at fall tell her 'aw I feel,
And aw' my wants without a blufh reveal.
Bi:t now the clouds brek off, and fineways run ;
Out frae his fhelter lively luiks the fun,
Brave hearty blafts the droopin barley dry,
The lads are gaen to fhear — and fae mun I.
GLOSSARY.
Stright, ftraight. bauldly, boldly, thur, thefe. enquear, enquire, fardin
farthing, dune, done, 'at fall, that fhall. aw', all. brek, break, fineways,
fundiyways. frae, from, luiks, looks, droopin, drooping, gaen, gone, fhear,
¦reap, fae mun, fo muft.

HORACE, Book II. Ode 7.
TRANSLATED IN THE CUMBERLAND DIALECT.
The fnaw has left the fells, and fled,
Their tops i' green the trees hev' cled,
The grund wi' findry flowers is fawn ;
And to their ftint the becks are fawn :
Nor fear the nymphs and graces mair
To dance it in the meadows bare. The
GLOSSARY.
Snaw, fnow. fells, mountains, i" green, in green, hev' cled, have clad.
grund, ground. wi',with. findry, fundry. fawn,fown. ftint, ufual meafure,
becks, rivulets or fmall brooks, fawn, faU'n, mair, more.

304 ADDENDA.
The year, 'at flips fae fail away,
Whifpers we mun not think to flay ;
The fpring fuin thows the winter froft,!
To meet the fpring does fimmer poft,
Frae fimmer, autumn clicks the hauld,
And back at yence is winter cauld.
Yit muins off-hand meake up their lofs f
But foon as we the watter crofs,
To Tullus great, ./Eneas guid,
We're duft and fhadows wuthout bluid.
And whae, Torquatus, can be fworn
'At thame abuin 'ill grant to-mworn ?
Leeve than, what's war't i' murry chear
Frae thanklefs heirs is gitten clear.
When death, my friend, yence ligs ye faft,
And Minus juft your duim has paft,
Your reace, and wit, and worth 'ill mak
But a peer fhift to bring you back,
Diana (fhe's a goddefs tee)
Gets not Hippolitus fet free ;
And, Thefeus, aw, that ftrength of thine,
Can never brek Pirithous' chyne.
GLOSSARY.
'At flips, that flips. fae,fo. mun not, muft not. fuin, foon. thows, thaws-
fimmer, fummer. frae flmmer, from fummer. clicks, catches or (hatches
away, hauld, hold, ytrce, once, cauld, cold, 'yit, yet. muins, moons,
meake, make, fuin, foon. watter, water, guid, good, wuthout bluid.
without blood, whae, whq. "at thame abuin, that them above, 'ill, will.
to-mworn, to-morrow, leeve than, live then, war't, laid out or expended.
i' murry, inmerry. frae, trom. gitten, got or gotten, yence, cnce.. ligs, lays,'
Minus, Minos, duim, doom, reace, race, 'ill mak, will make, peer, poor-
tee, too, aw*, aQi brek, break, chyne, chain,

ARTICLE

ADDENDA. 305

ARTICLE XI.
Mrs. Radcliffe's Description of
THE SCENERY IN A RIDE OVER SKIDDAW.
' 1794.
Having engaged a guide, and with horfes accuftomed
to the labour, we began to afcend this tremendous moun
tain by a way, which makes the fummit five miles from
Kefwick. Faffing through bowery lanes, luxuriant with
mountain afh, holly, and a variety of beautiful fhrubs, to a
broad, open cammon, a road led us to the foot of Latrigg, or,
as is called by the country people, Skiddaw's Cub, a large
round hill, covered with heath, turf, and browfing fheep. A
narrow path now wound along fteep green precipices, the beau
ty of which prevented what danger there vvas from being per
ceived. Derwent-water was concealed by others, that rofe
above them, but that part of the vaje of Kefwick, which fepa-
rates the two lakes, and fpreads a rich level of three miles, was
immediately below; Crofthwaite church neatly in the centre,
with the vicarage, rifing amOng trees. More under fhelter of'
Skiddaw, where the vale fpreads into a fweet retired pook, lay
the houfe and grounds of Dr. Brownrigg.
Beyond the level, opened a glimpfe of Baffenthwaite wa
ter ; a lake which may be called elegant, bounded, on one
fide, by well-wooded rocks, and, on the other, by Skiddaw.
Soon after, we rofe above the fteeps which had concealed
Derwent-water, and it appeared, with all its enamelled banks,
funk deep amidft a chaos of mountains, and furrounded by
ranges of fells, not vifible from below. On the other hand,
the more chearful lake of Baffenthwaite expanded at its entire
x length.

<m(S ADDENDA-
*? .'~ <P - -
length. Having gazed a while on this magnificent fcene, we
puifued the path, and foon after reached the brink of achafmj
On the oppofite fide of which wortud" our future track; for
the afcent is here in an acutely zig-zag direaion. The hor
fes carefully picked their fteps. along the narrow .precipice,
and turned the angle, that led them to the oppofite fide.
At length, as we afcended, Derwent-water dwindled on
.the eye tq the fmallnefs of a- pond, • whrle the grandeur of its
amphitheatre vvas encreafed by new ranges of dark mountains,
no longer individually great, but fo from accumulation ; a
fcenery to give ideas of the breaking up of a world. Other
precipices foon hid it again, but Baffenthwaite continued to
fpread immediately below us, till we turned into the heart of
Skiddaw, and were inclofed by its fteeps. .' We had now loft
all track even of the flocks, that were fcattered over thefe tre
mendous wilds. The guide conduaed u-s by many curvifigs
among the heathy hills and hollows of the mountain ; but the
afcents were fuch, that the horfes panted in the floweft walk,
and it was neceffary to let them reft every fix or feven minutes.
An opening to the fouth, at length, fhewed the whole plan of
the narrow vales of St John and of Nadale, feparated by the
dark ridge of rock, called St. John's- Rigg, with each its fmall
line of verdure at the bottom, and bounded by enormous grey
fells, which we were, however, now high enough to overlook*
A white fpeck on the top of St. John's-Rigg, was pointed
out by the guide to be-a chapel of eafe to Kefwick, which
has no lefs than five fuch, fcattered among the fells. From
this chapel, dedicated to St, John, the rock and the vale have*
received their name, and our guide told us, that Nadale was
frequently known by the fame title. '*¦
Leaving this view, the mountain foon again fhut out all
profpea, but of its own vallies and precipices, covered with
various (hades of turf and mofs, and with heath, Of which a
dull purple was the prevailing hue. Not a tree, or bufh ap
peared,

ADDENDA 307
pt-'ai ed on Skiddaw, nor even a ftone wall any where broke the
fimple greatnefs of its lilies. Sometimes we looked into tre
mendous chafms.'where the torrent, heard .roaring long before
it was feen, had worked itfelf a deep channel, and fell from
ledge to ledge, foaming and fhining amidft the .dark, rock,
¦Thefe ftreams are fublime from the length and precipitancy of
their courfe, which, hurrying the. fight vvith them into the
abyfs, afl, as it were, in fyrripalhy upon the nerves, and, to
lave ourfelves from following, , we. recoil from the view with
involuntary h«rror. Of fuch, however, we faw only two, and
thofe by fome departure frOm the ufual courfe up the moun
tain ; biit every where met gufning fprings, till we were with
in two miles of the fummit, when our guide added to the rum
in his bottle what he faid vvas the laft water we fhould find
iri oiir afcer.t.
The air now became very thin, and the fteeps ftill more dif
ficult of afCeht ; but it was often delightful to look downiritq
the green hollows of the mountain, "amphg paftoral fcenes, that
wanted only fome mixture of wood to render them enchanting.
About a mile from the fumirut, the way was, indeed, dread
fully fublime, lyfng,'for nearly halfa mile, along the ledge of
a precipice, that, paffed with a fwift defcent, .foe probably
near a'mile, into a glen within the heart , of Skiddaw; and
not a buffi, or a hillock interrupted, its vaft length, or,, by
offering a midway check in the defcent, diminifhed the fear
it infpired. The ridgy, fteeps of Saddleback, formed the
oppofite boundary of .the, glen, and, .though really at a con
fiderable diftance, had, from the height of the two mountains,,
fuch an a'ppeaiance'of neatnefs, that it almoft feemed as if
we could fpring to "its fide. " How much too did fimplicity
incieafe the fublime of this fcenery, in which nothing. but
mountain, heath, arid iky'appeafed',
¦ But pur lituation was too critical,, or too unufuaL/tapermit
the jiift inipreflions of fuch fublimity. The hill rofe fo clofely
x z above

3.00* . ADDENDA.
abqve tjhe precipice as fcarcely to allow a ledge wide enough
for' a finele horfe. We followed the guide in filence, and, tilt
we regained the more open wild, had no leizure for exclama
tion.- After this, the afcent appeared eafy and. fecure, and
we were rbold enough to wonder, that the fteeps near the1-
beginning of the mountain had' excited any anxiety.
At length, paffing the fkirts of the two points of i^kiddaw^
which are'neareft to Derwent-water, we approached the third;
and loftieft,. and then perceived, that their fteep fides, toge
ther with the ridges, which connea them, were entirely co
vered hear the fummits with a whitifh fhiyered flate, which
threatens tb flide down them with every guft .of wind. The
broken rfta'te of this flate makes the prefent fumini^s feem
like the 'ruins of others ; a circumftance as extraordinary iff
appearance as difficult to be accounted for.
ijii3rrc .; ' '. - -•" '. -' '~ 1-' ¦ - - 1
The ridge on which, we paffed from the neighbourhood
of tpe fecond fummit to the tljird, wgs narrow, -arid the eye
reached, ,on each fide', down the whole extent, of the, moun
tain, following, on the left, the rocky precipices that impend
over the lake of Baffenthwaite, and looking, oh the right,
into the glens of Saddleback, r far, far below. But the prof-,
peas, that burft upori'us from every part of the vaft horizon,-
when we had gained the fummit, were fuch asr we had
fcarcely dared to hope for, and muft now rather venture to'
enumerate, than to defcribe. ,
We flood on a pinnacle, commanding the whole dome of
the fky; The profpeas below, each of which had been be
fore confidered feparately as a great fcene, were now minia
ture parts of the immenfe landfcape. ( To the north, lay like
a map, the vaft traa of low country, which extends between
Baffenthwaite and the Irifh Channel^ marked with the filver
circles of the river Derwent, in its progrefs from the lake.
Whitehaven and its white coaft were diftinaiy feen, and Coc
kermouth feemed'almoft under the eye. A long, blackifh line,r,
more

ADDENDA, $4$
more.t(-p,the weft, refembling a faintlyforraed«lciud,:!wasfaid
k>" tne. g«ide to be the- Ifle of Man, who, howesygi-, had the
honefty to confefs; that the mountains of, Down , in Ireland,
which have been fometimes .thought vifible, had, never been
Jeen by him in the cleareft (Weather. , - t- ;
;:;,:- ... -*-i;t i -'-v. n'i •-
.founding the low-fioSfBtry to the ncrfth, the wjde Solwii-/
Frujb, twith its indented (hpre«> looked like a grey horizon
andthe double, range of jScvofrifh mountains feendinjjy-threugh
"yft beyond^IikelinfiS, of ,djfkjd»nds above it. The Solway
appeared furprifingly near, lis, though at.fifty Hfjittestidiftance^,
and the guide faid, that on a bright day» its, (hipping could-
plainly be difcerned. Nearly in the north, the heights feem
ed to foften into plains, for. np objea was.there vifible through
the obfcuxity, that had begun to draw over the further dif
tance ; but, towards the eaft, they appeared, to fwell again?
and what we were told wete the Cheviot hills, dawned feebly
beyond Northumberland. • )rVe now fpanned the, narroweft
part of England, looking from the Irifh Channel, on one fidey
to the German Oceany on- th^ other, which latter was, how
ever, fo far off as to be difcernible only like a mift.
'. - ( .'--!¦' ">¦;
Nearer than the county of. Durham, fir-etched the ridge of
Crofs-Fell, and an indiftina multitude of the Weftmorland
and .Yorkfhire highlands, whofe lines difappeared behind Sad
dleback, now evidently pre-eminent over Skiddaw, fo much
fo as to exclude many a height beyond it. Paffing this moun
tain in our courfe to the fouth, we, faw, immediately below»
the fell 8 found Derwent-water, the lake itfelf remaining ftill
concealed in their deep rocky bofom. Southward and weft-.
wgrd, the, whole profpea was a " turbulent chaos, of dark
mountains. " All individual dignity was now -loft in the im.
menfity of the whole, and every variety of. chafer was
overpowered by that, of aftonifhing and gloomy grandeur.
Over 'the fells of Borrowdale, and far to the fouth, the nor
thern end of Windermere, appeared, like, a w«ea,th of grey,
fmoke,

3i6 ADDENDA.
fmoke, that fpreads along the mountain's fide. More foilth-
ward ftill, and beyond all the fells of the lakes Lancafter
fands extended to the faintly feen waters of the fea. Then to
the weft, Duddon fands gleamed in a long line among the
fells of High Furnefs. Immediately under the eye, lay Baf
fenthwaite, furrounded by many ranges of mountains, invi-
fible from below. We overlooked all thefe dark mountains,
and faw 'green cultivated vales Over the tops of lofty rocks,
and other mountains over thefe vales' in many ridges, whilft
innumerable narrow glens were-traced in all their windings
and feen uniting behind the hills with others, that alfo floped
upwards from the lake.
The air- on this fummit was boifterous,inlenfely cold, and
difficult to be infpired, though the day1 was below, warrn and
ferene. -It was1 dreadful to look down from nearly the brink
of the pOint; on which we ftoOd', upon the lake c'f Baffenth^
waite, and over a fhirp and feparatea ridge of rocks, that
from below appeared of tremendous height, but now
feemed hot to reach' half way tip Skiddaw ; it was almoft
as if "-- • 3"
the precipitation might down ftretch
Be'lOvv the beam of fight. .- :: -' -

, i.

Under the lee of afi heaped Up pile -of fiates, formed by the
cuftomary contributidnof One from every vifrtor, we found an'
old man fheltered, whom we took to be" a fhepherd, but after
wards learned was a farmer, and, as people in this neighbour
hood fay, a " ftateffnan ;'"" that is, had land of his own. He
was a native and ftill an inhabitant of ah adjoining' vale ;
but fo laborious is the enterprife reckoned, that, though he
had paffed his life within view of the'mbuhtain, this was his
firft afcent. He defcended with' us,^ for paft of our way, and
then wound off towards his own valley, ftalking amidft the
wild fcenery, his large figure wrapt in a dark cloak, and his
fteps occafioaally affifted by a long' iron pronged pike, with
which he had pointed out diftant objeas. In

ADDENDA. 3u
In the defcent, it was interefting to obferve each mountain
Delow gradually re-affuming its dignity; the two lakes ex
panding into fpacious furfaces, the many little vallies, that
floped upwards from their "margins, recovering their varie
gated tints of cultivation; the cattle again appearng in the
meadows, and the woody promontories changing from fmooth
patches of fhade into richly tufted fummits. At about a
mile from the top, a great difference was perceptible in the
climate, which became comparatively warm, and the fummer
hum of bees was again heard among the purple heath.
We reached Kefwick, about four o'clock, after^ five hours
paffed in this excurfion, in which the care of our guide
greatly leffened the notion of danger.

FINIS,

SIXTEEN
VIEWS OF THE LAKES
Wy Messrs. SMITH and EMES,

'UO,'

%

ENGRArEL ) BT MX. ALKEN.
Of a proper fize to bind with the Guide, TLEt

%, Vale of Lonfdale, -
Z- Conifton Lake, ...
3. Windermere, great ifland,
4. Windermere, from Calgarth,
5. Elter:warer, -
6. Stock- Gill Force, -
7. Upper Cafcade, Rydal,
8. Rydal-water,
9. Grafmere Lake, -
to. Leathes-water, - - -
\i. Derwent-water, from Caftle-Crag,
12. Derwent-water, from Ormathwaite,
13. Buttermere, . -
14. Lowes-water, ...
I e. Ulls-water, upper end,
j6. Ulls-water, towards Gowbarrow,

"Obfervations a/ioned by
rge Glof.
common
Letter io

i
S
1113
*54

Printed for W. Clarke, New Bond Street, London ;
and fold by W. .Pennington, Kendal, — Price one Guinea,